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„       ^  n  [Dbcbmber  25,  1909. 

The  Garden.]  '- 


The  Gardkn. 


[December  25,  1909. 


Arthur  Warwick  .Sutton,  J. P.,  F.L.S.,  V.M.H. 


The  Gabdsn.] 


[DiOEMBKB  25,    1909. 


...D^^Cl^., 


AN 


Illustrated  Weekly  Journal 


OF 


Horticulture  in   all   its   Branches. 


Founded  by  W.  Robi7ison  in  1871. 


VOL.  LXXIII.        CHRISTMAS,   1909. 


LOU^DOUS^. 

Office:     20,   TAVISTOCK  STREET,    COVENT   GARDEN,   V^.C. 


Published  by  "COUNTRY  LIFE,"  Ltd.,  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C.,  and  by 
GEORGE  NEWNES,  Ltd.,  3-12,  Southampton  Street,  Strand. 


The  Ga&obn.] 


[December  25,  1909. 


.  13 


TO 


ARTHUR   WARWICK    SUTTON,  J. P.,  F.L.S.,  V.M.H., 


THE  SEVENTY-THIRD  VOLUME  OF  "THE  GARDEN" 


Is   dedicated. 


THROUGHOUT  the  world  of  horticulture  Mr.  Arthur  Sutton  is  well  known,  and  it  i.s  a  pleasure  to  dedicate  this 
volume  of  The  Gakden  to  one  who  has  accomplished  so  much  in  improving  and  raising  flowers  for  our 
gardens  and  vegetables  for  our  consumption.  The  cultivation  and  cooking  of  vegetables  are  receiving  greater 
recognition,  and  it  is  due  to  such  men  as  Mr.  SuttiDn  that  this  has  occurred.  The  lectures  that  he  has  given 
before  the  Eoyal  Horticultural  and  Linnean  Societies  have  had  much  influence  in  promoting  a  knowledge  of  the  wild 
types  of  vegetables  and  their  evolution:  an  intense  study  has  been  made  of  the  begiiniing  of  things  in  horticulture 
and  agriculture,  and  this  has  resulted  in  improved  forms  which  we  appreciate  in  garden  and  farm.  Well  we 
remember  the  instructive  exhibits  of  the  wild  types  of  Potatoes  shown  by  Mr.  Sutton  at  the  gi-eat  horticultural 
and  agricultural  show.s,  and  the  scientific  interest  they  created.  Mr.  Sutton  was  born  in  1854,  and  his  residence, 
Bucklebury  Place,  Woolhampton,  Berks,  is  surrounded  with  a  charming  garden.  The  Victoria  Medal  of  Honour 
was  worthily  bestowed  upon  one  who  h;is  done  so  much  for  horticulture  and  his  fellow-men.  Few  men  have  shown 
greater  sympathy  with  the  sick  and  suffering,  whether  in  Reading  itself^  or  in  the  larger  sphere  represented  by  the 
Gardeners'  Eoyal  Benevolent  Institution.  We  dedicate  this  volume  to  one  who  is  devoted  to  his  Church,  regarded 
with  afiection  by  his  employees,  and  one  who  brings  back  from  his  travels  delightful  reminiscences.  .Mr.  Sutton  is 
a  keen  business  man,  and  is  not  forgetful  of  the  welfare  of   others. 


Vol.  LXXIII.] 


["  The  Garden,"  December  25,  1909 


INDEX 


Abutilon  vexillarium,  478 ;  variegatum,  499 
Acacia,  a  new  rose,  611 
Acacias  and  their  culture,  165 
Acanthus    montanua,   11 ;    spinosus  in    a 

Camherley  garden.  617 
Aconitum  volubile,  507 
Actinidia  chinensis,  394 
Adonis,  the  double  Amoor,  42 
Agapanthuses  in  large  tubs,  611 
Alberta  magna,  184 
Allamandas,  treatment  of,  59 
.Almond  Iruits,  507 
Almonds  and  Peaches,  the,  212,  239 
Alpine,  a  choice,  401 ;  flowers,  planting,  389 
Alpines   for  lockery,  233;   manures   for, 

224,  250 ;  should  they  be  manured,  190 
Anchusa  Italica  Dropmore  variety,  355 
Anemone  nemorosa  robinsoniana,  266,  323 
Anemones  and  Ranunculuses,  planting,  146 
Annual  flowers,  some  ways  of  using,  149 
Annuals,  borders  for,  72  ;  hardy,  167  ;  how 

to  raise  tender  and  half-hardy,  93  ;   in 

gardens,    419 ;    sowing   seeds   of,    105 ; 

thinning,  293 
Antholyza  paniculata,  428,  442 
Ants  and  Roses,  311,  322,  334 
Aphis  on  fruit  trees,  395 
Apple  and  other  fruit  trees  in  pots,  60; 

Newton    Wonder,    86 ;  scab,    63 ;    pro- 
duction. 628 ;  St.  Everard,  511, 629  ;  trees, 

American  blight   and    canker  in,   013 ; 

trees,  banding,  187;  trees  cankered,  120; 

trees,  longevity  of,  7 ;  Will  Crump,  11,  29 
Apples  and  canker,  63 ;  at  Highgate,  40 ; 

old   Irish,  523  ;    price  of  home-grown, 

198  ;  well-kept,  99 
Apricots,  218 

Aralia,  information  about,  669 
Araucaria  excelsa  Silver  Star,  307 
Arbor-vitEe,  propagating  the,  472 
Arum  Lilies  in  flowing  water,  96  ;  potting, 

449 
Asclepias  Douglasii,  601 
Ash,  the  American  Mountain,  471 
Asparagus  bed,  how   to    plant    an,   136 ; 

ornamental,  for  cutting,  96  ;  the  way  to 

grow,  221 
Aspidistra  leaves  splitting,  347 ;  repotting 

and  dividing  the.  180 
Aster  hybrida  Bianca,  646 ;  Lustre,  622 ; 

Mesa  grandiflura,  330 
Asters,  Chioese,  and  their  culture,  154 
Astilbe  rivularis  gigantea,  426 
Aucuba  and  Euonymus,  propagating,  412 
Auricula  and  Polyanthus  exhibition,  211  ; 

the,  at  home,  261 
Auriculas,  raising  and  Increasing,  204 
Autumn  tints  and  berries,  671 
Azalea,  treatment  of  a,  307 
Azaleas  in  pots,  533 


Ballast,  how  to  burn,  380 

Barr,  Mr.  Peter,  death  of,  476  ;  Mr.  P.  R., 

687  ;  the  late  Mr.  Peter,  466,  491 
Bean,  French,  Wythes'  Early  Gem,   252  ; 

White  Emperor,  511 
Beans,  Broad,  94;   Broad,  and  black  fly, 

110 ;    Broad,    and    their    culture,    41 ; 

French,  how  to  grow  good.  192;  Mau- 

churian    Oil,    272 ;    new    French,    427 ; 

Runner,  193 
Bedding-out,  269 
Bedding,  summer,  119  ;  in  a  small  garden, 

266 
Beech  disease  and  its  treatment,  383 
Bees,  disease  among,  322 
Beet,  Spinach  and  Seakale,  103 
Beetroot,  lifting  and  storing,  509 
Begonia  Clibran's  Pink,  254  ;  congestiflora 

hakeoides,  210  ;  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  52, 

158;     hydrocotylilolia     Saturne,     ]7i  ; 

Patrie,  46,  89 ;   Pink  Pearl,  274  ;    Tiie 

Gem,  670 
Begonias  for  bedding,  183  ;  tuberous,  270  ; 

what  are  Rex  1  319 
Birds  in  gardens,  136 


Books  :  "  Alpines  and  Bog  Plants,"  219  ; 
"Bulletin  de  la  Soci6t6  frant^aise 
d'horticulture  de  Londres,"  462  ; 
"Dutch  Bulbs  and  Gaidens,"  342; 
"  English  Leadwork,"  607  ;  "  Field  and 
Woodland  Plants,"  612;  "French  Gar- 
dening," 462  ;  "French  Market  Garden- 
ing," 460  :  "  Fruit  Ranching  in  Britieh 
Colombia,"  612;  "Garden  Design," 
295  ;  "  Home  Bottled  Fruits  and 
How  to  Do  Them."  295  ;  "  Illustrations 
of  Conifers,"  671 ;  "Observing  and  Fore- 
casting the  Weather,"  342;  "Practical 
School  Gardening,"  463  ;  "  The  Book  of 
the  Sweet  Pea,"  6U6  ;  "The  Flora  of 
Cornwall,"  462;  "The  Flowers  and 
Gardens  of  Madeira,"  606  ;  "  Warley 
Gardens  in  Summer,"  611 

Border,  a  Tulip,  527  ;  ideas  for  herbaceous, 
48  ;  making  a  herbaceous,  416  ;  planting 
a,  72;  planting  a  dry,  169  ;  spring  work 
in  the  herbaceous,  47 

Borders,  herbaceous,  94 ;  north,  258 ; 
watering  dry,  231 

Bougainvillea  Rosa  catalina,  218 

Box  edging,  170,  413 

Bracbyglottis  repanda  in  New  Zealand,  590 

Brassicas,  clubbing  in,  87, 162 

Brasso-Cattleya  Cliftonii  magniflca,  147  : 
Cooksonii,  147  ;  digbyana  Mendelii  per- 
fecta,  171 

British  Columbia,  a  note  from,  27 

Broccoli  and  the  weather,  110 

Broditea  uniflora,  266 

Brooms  for  the  rock  garden,  226 

Brussels  Sprouts  and  their  culture,  91 

Bryony,  288,  311  ;  in  the  garden,  336 

Bulbophyllum  lemniscatoides,  273 

Bulbous  flowers,  uncommon,  for  vases,  467 

Bulbs,  early,  461 ;  forced,  and  eelworms, 
189 ;  for  naturalisation,  622  ;  for  summer 
bedding,  231 ;  how  to  treat  forced,  181 ; 
in  bowls  for  decoration,  593  ;  in  grass, 
planting,  587 ;  in  pots,  389 ;  in  turf, 
planting,  666  ;  little-used,  626 ;  plant- 
ing, 497  ;  in  grass,  485 ;  preparing  beds 
i  for,  485 ;  the  blue,  of  spring,  517 ;  to 
grow  in  Queensland,  558  ;  top-dressing 
j      with  old  manure,  59 

Bunyard,  Mr.  G.,  presentation  to,  346 


Cabbages,  planting  in  autumn,  516;  small 
winter,  300 

Cacti,  flowering,  and  their  culture,  324 

Calanthe  Angela,  11 ;  Veitchii,  218  ; 
vestita  Norman,  11 

Calanthes  and  their  culture,  165 ;  treat- 
ment of,  84 

Calceolarias  for  bedding  out,  145 ;  in 
frames,  129 

Camassia  Leichtlinii,  446 

Camellia  buds  falling,  169  ;  treatment  of 
a,  271 

Campanula  phyctidocalys,  300;  punctata. 
423  ;  pyramidalis  compacta  in  the  green- 
house, 62  ;  pyramidalis  in  pots,  470 

Candytuft,  propagating  the  evergreen,  388 

Canna  Roi  Humbert,  426 

Canterbury  Bells,  a  border  of,  602  ;  and 
their  culture,  243 

Carnation  Carols,  274;  cultivation  of  the 
Malmaison,  663;  Elizabeth  Shiflner, 
402  ;  Fiery  Furnace,  402  ;  Fortuna.  71 ; 
Her  Majesty,  330 ;  Jupiter,  402  ;  Lady 
Coventry,  219;  Lady  Dainty,  201; 
Lieutenant  Shackleton,  354  ;  May  Day, 
646  ;  0.  P.  Basset,  610;  Queen  of  Spain, 
228 ;  Rose  Dord',  171  ;  Society,  the  Per- 
petual Flowering,  63,  86.  99,  161,  174 

Carnations,  181,  378 ;  and  Pinks,  propa- 
gating, 401 ;  at  the  Temple  Show,  274  ; 
border,  119 ;  border  and  Malmaison, 
248  ;  disbudding,  486 ;  dwarf,  159  ;  King 
of  Spain,  402 ;  layering,  366  ;  Malmaison, 
.319  ;  new,  223 ;  Perpetual,  39 ;  Perpetual- 
flowering,  30,  76 ;  and  how  to  grow 
then.,  6S ;  as  garden  plants,  15 ',  for 
summer  bedding,  677  ;  planting  out,  190 


Carnations,  raising  new,  172 ;  winter- 
flowering,  94 

Carpenteria  californica  in  East  Sussex,  334 

Cat  rots,  coarse,  676;  Paisnips  and  Bett, 
how  to  grow,  67  ;  two  good  summer, 
397 

Cascara  sagrada,  the  production  of,  in 
England,  38 

Cattle  ya  x  Basil,  510;  Dirce  superba,  694; 
hardyana  The  Baron,  622;  irioescens 
splendens,  474  ;  Maggie  Raphael  Wes- 
tonbirt  variety,  46 ;  Mosaise  A.  Dim- 
mock,  301  ;  Mossia  Gatton  Park 
variety,  273 ;  Mossise  Wagneri  San- 
deriB,  364;  Mrs.  Pitt  superba,  610; 
X  Rhoda  conspicua,  510 ;  Robert  de 
Wavrin,  218;  Schrodeia;  Iiene,  194; 
Schrodeite  Miss  Alex.  James,  195 ; 
SchroderiB  Mrs.  F.  Sander,  147  ; 
Schroderte  The  Baron,  194  ;  percivaliana 
Charleswoith'a  variety,  146;  Trianse 
Grand  Monarch,  147  ;  Trianse  mooreana, 
118  ;  Warscewiczii  W.  Waters  Butler, 
402 

Cauliflowers,  94;  and  Broccoli,  winter 
supply  of,  664 ;  autumn,  341 ;  trans- 
planting, 370 

Cedar,  the  alpine,  233 

Cedars,  bare  ground  beneath,  365 

Celeriac  diseased,  583 

Celery,  270  ;  as  a  vegetable,  589  ;  culture 
for  beginners,  304  ;  earthing  up,  353 

Cheiranthus  Harpur  Crewe,  274     ' 

Chestnut,  a  shrubby,  604 

Chionodoxa  Lucilia;  alba,  266 

Choisya  ternata.  399  ;  treatment  of,  69 

Christmas  Rose,  transplanting  the,  446 

Chrysanthemum  AUrincham  Yellow,  646  ; 
frutescens  White  Perfection,  274;  J.  B. 
Lowe,  696.  602 ;  Kathleen  May,  611 ; 
Leslie,  474 ;  Lingwood's  Pride,  570 ; 
Mary  Farnaworth,  622  ;  Maud  Allan,  46 ; 
Mensa,  695  ;  Miss  Lilian  Bullivant,  696  ; 
Miss  E.  Luxford,  ,546;  Mrs.  Thornton, 
646  ;  Mrs.  W.  Buckingham,  695  ;  Mrs.  W. 
Parker,  Gil ;  ornatum,  89 ;  Ronald 
Ferguson,  105;  Society,  National,  260; 
Society's  conference,  512 ;  White  Queen, 
622 

Chrysanthemums,  94  ;  a  chat  about,  413  : 
after  flowering,  592 ;  an  excellent  type  of 
single-flowering,  627 ;  bolder,  305;  deco- 
rative, 350  ;  for  India,  147 ;  from  seed, 
1-26  ;  late,  56,  111,  136,  187;  new  certifl- 
cated,  615;  new  early,  in  the  North, 
626 ;  propagating  by  cuttings,  20 ; 
stopping  and  timing,  213,  661 ;  the  final 
potting  of,  328 

Cineraria  Antique  Rose,  287  ;  Cactus- 
flowered,  171  ;   flavescens,  247.  263 

Cinerarias  and  Calceolarias,  potting,  437 ; 
Cactus-flowered,  325 

Cirrhopetalum  Fascinator,  622  ;  longiasi- 
mum,  594  ;  pulchium  Cliftonii,  426 

Cislus  ladanilerus,  359 

Clay,  burning,  for  Roses,  419 

Clematis  montana,  how  to  prune,  307  ; 
the,  569 

Clematises,  170  ;  and  their  culture,  45  ; 
rare  and  beautiful,  302  ;  the  most  beau- 
tiful, 673 

Clerodendron  fallax,  47 ;  tiichotomum,  471 

Clianthus,  a  white,  162 

Climber  for  front  of  house,  621 ;  for  Wil- 
low tree,  233 

Climbers  for  pergola,  683  ;  greenhouse,  363 

Climbing  plants  and  buildings,  586 

Clintonias  and  their  culture,  458 

Club-root  in  Cauliflowers,  484 

Coelogynes  and  their  culture,  469 

Colchicum  Bornmuelleri,  618  ;  giganteum, 
550;  speciosnm  album,  350 

Colour  nomenclature,  478,  601,  539 

Columnea  magniflca,  546 

Competitions, RoyalHonicuUural  Society's 
new,  99 

Convolvulus,  240  ;  mauritanicus,  398 

Cornus  capitata,  411 

Cosmos  bipinnatus,  the  white,  125 

Cotoneaster  angustifolia,  210,  276 ;  humi- 
fusa,  600  ;  rotundifolia,  19 


Crab,  the  Siberian,  530 

Crataegus  Pyracantha  Leiandii, 

Crawley,  notes  made  at,  539 

Crinum  yeraense,  466 

Crocus,  a  floriferous,  174  ;  flowei  ing  with- 
out soil,  27,  87 ;  Sieberi  versicolor,  171 
201 

Crocuses  and  Daffodils  for  early  bank,  476 
naturalising  in  grass,  589 

Crown  Imperials,  259 

Cucumber  culture,  points  in,  230  ;  growing 
for  amateurs,  162 

Cultivation,  deep,  169  ;  intense,  249 

Currant  bushes.  Black,  pruning 
pruning  Red  and  White,  80 

Currants  and  Gooseberries,  summer 
pruning  of,  364 

Cyclamen,  double-flowered,  162  ;   hietory 
of  the,  23  ;  old  and  young  corms,  633 
the  double,  86  ;  the  sweet-scented,  179 

Cydonias,  when  to  prune,  672 

Cymbidium  wocdhamsianum  Orchidhurst 
variety,  118 

Cymbidiums  and  their  culture,  253 

Cynoches  peruvianum  Tracey's  vaiiety, 
118 

Cjpripedium  antinous,  10;  Boltonii,  594; 
Beacon  magnificum,  646  ;  Bridgei  mag- 
uiflcum,  lis  ;  Cynthia  We&tonbirt 
variety,  622;  elatior,  11;  elatior  Rex, 
646 ;  Fair  Maude,  622 ;  insigne,  146 ; 
Leander  Exhims  variety,  94 ;  Lion,  611 ; 
spectabile,  577 

Cypripediums,  autumn  and  winter  flower- 
ing, 100 ;  seeding,  84 

Cytisus  nigricans,  411 

D. 

Daffodil,  a  green,  269 ;  and  Tulip  notes,  179 ; 
effects,  507  ;  notes,  66,  90,  162,  200,  223, 
386,  421,  434  ;  reflections,  601 ;  6how  In 
New  South  Wales,  562  ;  the  modern,  627 

Daffodils  after  flowering,  239  ;  and  fruit 
trees,  269 ;  and  Tulip  uotes,  239 ;  and 
Tulips,  manure  for,  207;  and  Tulips, 
some  good,  486  ;  and  Wallflowers,  485  ; 
a  note  on,  347  ;  at  Surbiton,  247  ;  classi- 
fication of,  S6,  109,  122;  first  early  for 
market,  223  ;  forced,  176 ;  in  field,  342  ; 
in  grass,  227  ;  in  masses,  114 ;  in  moss 
fibre,  547  ;  large  white  trumpet  in  pots, 
42  ;  modern,  262  ;  new,  at  Birmingham, 
224  ;  some  good,  410 

Dahlia,  a  new,  418  ;  Edward  Mawley,  474  ; 
Goldcrcst,  510  ;  H.  H.  Thomas,  474  : 
Indomitable,  474 ;  lolanthe,  474 ; 
Juciter,  474;  Lancer,  510;  Little  Donald, 
610 ;  Little  Beeswing,  474  ;  Prima  Donna, 
474  ;  Quimbo,  610  ;  roots,  118  ;  roots, 
stormg,  645;  Red  Admiral,  474  ;  shoots, 
thinning,  341 ;  the,  209 

Dahlias  at  Slough,  478;  garden  decora- 
tive, 464  ;  selection  of  Cactus,  284 

Daisies,  double,  in  pots,  90 

Daphne  blagayana,  241 ;  indica,  207 

Datura  Knightii,  treatment  of,  635 

Delphinium  Moerheimi,  330,  631 ;  NuUi 
Secundus,  378 ;  the,  383  ;  White  Queen, 
354 

Deluhiniums  and  slugs,  129;  two  rare, 
454 

Dendrobium  acuminatum,  426 ;  atro- 
brymerianum,  118  ;  Lidy  Colman,  118  ; 
Sandeite,  402:  schrbderianum  Wtsion- 
birt  variety,  171 ;  laurinum  Colmanii, 
522 

Desfontainea  spinosa  in  Scotland,  418 

Diervilla  Eva  Rathke,  372 

Dimorphotheca  auranliaca,  30 

Diostea  juncea,  372 

Disa  grandiflora  and  its  culture,  441 


Editor's  Table,  10,  71,  83, 103, 147, 170,  20(> 
219,  236,  269,  294,  330,  337,  403.  428,  451 

Eelworm  in  leaves  of  greenhouse  plants, 
470  ;  Elderberry,  the  scarlet-fruited,  447, 
464 


84^^6 


VI. 


INDEX. 


["  The  Garden;'  December  25,  1900, 


EpilxUa  Lionetu,  21s 
Epidendrum.  sowiag  seeds  of,  452 
Erection,  an  ohjeciionable,  lOS 
Eremurus  elwesianus,  542;  tobufitas,  51S  ; 

Sir  Michael,  37S 
Escallouia,  prauiug  an,  in. 
E=8ft>s,  sptlng  heddine  '6 
Eocbariaamazonica,  284  ;  goiog  wrong,  620 
Eacrvphia  cordifolia,  471 
Enpatoire  en  arbre  at  the  Riviera,  sC,  162 
Eupatotiam  ccelestinum,  499:  cdur&iuin. 

106 
Evergreens,  how  to  propagate,  605 


Fennel  (Finocchio)  and  its  caltu'e,  3J5 

Fern  enthusiasts,  gatherfnar  of,  406 

Ferns,  cutting  back.  329;  HattVtongues, 
519 

Ficus  australis  va'i^gata.  274 

Fig  tree,  a  birren,  60  ;  trees,  2*J»i 

Figs,  130 ;  in  pots,  culture  of,  215  :  out- 
door, 146 

Flower  beds  and  borders  for  becioners, 
■29& ;  manuritp,  245;  show  for  our 
Headers,  2,  222,  2*9 ;  yellow  for  tdging, 
463 

Flowers,  annaal.  how  to  grow.  141 ;  at  the 
Zool  gical  Gardens,  406;  blue,  f.ir 
autamn,  500;  cut,  for  winter,  107 ;  for 
bntton-h«  I'-s,  248  ;  forJuyand  Angnst, 
107 ;  for  May,  1S3  ;  fruits  and  vegetables 
for  exhibition,  packing  and  transmitting 
(firit  prize  essay),  2S5 ;  herbactous, 
definition  of.  111 ;  sprn  g,  at  Hampton 
Court,  263;  swetrt-smelli  -g.  418 

Fly,  blai-k,  on  Prach  trees.  220 

Frame,  best  methods  of  using  a  cold  (first 
prize  essa>),  133  :  how  to  minnge  a  hot- 
bed, 129 ;  how  to  use  a  cold,  2U2 

Frames,  management  of.  545 

Freesia  Armstrongii,  611 ;  Rose  Queen,  119 

Freesias  and  their  culture,  3S4 ;  hybrid,  3S ; 
the  Chapman.  590 

Fremontia  califomica  at  Winchester,  451 

French  Beans  and  Potatoes,  how  to  grow 
in  pots,  4 

Fruit,  a  wonderful,  63,  s7  ;  bo'tling,  316  ; 
notes,  16,  40, 66,  91. 113. 13S.  164, 18S,  215, 
240,  266,  290,  312,  336,  359  3S7,  40S,  432, 
456.  481.  506,  529  555.  578  601,  628 

Fruit  trees  in  pots,  how  to  grow.  121,  137, 
153.  163.  1?8,  202   225,  240.  252,  283 

Fruit  trees  and  bushes,  winter  pruning  of, 
597  ;  hints  on  root-prunine,  5S1  ;  protec- 
ting, lis ;  sprayiug,  514  ;  tying  and 
training,  102  ;  when  to  plant,  87, 150, 163, 
176 

Fruits  and  vegetables,  bottling,  321 ; 
hardy,  94 

Fuchsias,  lifting,  473 

Fungus,  the  coral  spot,  485 


Galega  Hartlandii,  402,  418 

<ialloway  House  Gardens,  370 

Garden,  a  conibined  wall  and  roof.  357  ;  a 

quickly  made,  566,  590 ;  a  white,  541 :  an 

amateur's  interesting,  334  ;  an  old  man's, 

338  ;  the  German  Consul's  at  Foochow, 

187 
Garden.  The,  Flower  Show,  S6,  122,  333, 

379,    392,    395,     396 ;    prizes    at,     394  ; 

schedule,  15  ;  report  of,  :i86 
Gardenias,  106 
Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent  Institution, 

61 
Gardening  for  profit,  337,  563,  575 ;  wild.  43;i 
Gardens,    beautiful,    at  small  cost,   161 : 

Bishopsgate,  in  summer,  443 ;  front,  at 

KiDgaton-on-Thamee,  407:  Metropolitan 

Public,  1S6 
Gas  generator  refuse  for  crops.  111 
Gentian,  the  yellow,  385 
Gentiana  nrnata,  451  :  vfitchiorum,  483 
Gerard,  John,  his  life,  613,  63tD 
Geum  coccineum  Mrs.  J.  Bradsbaw,  307 
Genua,  increasing,  bv  division,  632 
Gilia  CO  -onopifolia,  599 
Gladioli  dlstrased,  95  ;  plantinir,  105 
Gladiolus  ^ndavenais,  140;   Lord  Alver- 

stone,  427  ;  Miss  Ada  Reeve,  427 
Gloxinias  and  mealy  bug.  331  ;   and  their 

culture,  629 ;  from  seed,  27 
Gnaton  Hall  Gardens.  Plymouth,  553 
Gongora  quinquenervis,  273 
Goosebenies  and   Currants,  propagating. 

603  ;  pruning  and  increasing,  104 
Gooseberry  disease,  a,  and  its  treatment, 

196 
Gorse,  Heather  and  Ling,  456 
Gourds  in  the  garden,  154 
Grafting,  clelt,    156  ;  crown  or  rind,  12% ; 

fruit  trees,  116 
Grapes  at  Wialey,  3S0  :  how  to  colour,  413  ; 

inarching,  &4  ;     Muscat  of  Alexandria, 

38;    not    colouring.   571;     some   little- 

knowu    for   a    cAA    house,     501  ;    the 

Hampton  Court,  514 


Grass  edgings,  246 

Greenhouse,  the  small,  for  pleasure  and 

profit,  139,  166.  212.  227 
Groundsels  orSenecius,  three  climbing,  276 
Gypsophila  acutifolia,  167 


Hamamelis  mollis,  98 

Hedge  for  garden,  391  ;  how  to  plant  and 
treat  a,  5u4 

Helenium  Riverslea  Beauty,  474.  51S 

Heliotropes,  how  to  grow  standard,  107 

Herbs,  two  useful,  216 

Elppeastrum  Gracclius,  219;  Migniflcent, 
195  :  Marsus,  195  ;  Pinkie,  219 

Hippcastroms  and  their  culture,  348;  at 
Messrs.  V.  i  chs,  199;  ptopagating  by 
seed,  89:  summer  treatment  of,  313 

Holly  benie?*.  scarcity  of,  26  ;  seeds,  treat- 
ment of,  159 

Hollyhocks,  318 

H'  U'-ysuckle,  propagation  of,  436 

Horticulture  at  the  White  City,  174 

Hyacinths,  forced,  and  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society,  198 ;  Roman,  438;  Roman, 
in  pots.  400 ;  Tulips  and  Crocuses, 
potting,  520 

H)acinthus  azureus,  131 

Hydrangea  Bortensis  alba,  247;  colouring 
of.  111 ;  the.  in  tut.s,  419 

Hydrangeas,  how  to  produce  blue  flowers 
of,  464 

I. 

Insect  friends  and  foes  (first  prize  eesay), 
393;  pests,  365;  in  autumn,  437;  the 
destructi  n  of.  on  fruit  trees.  76 

Iris,  Dutfh,  349  ;  Ed.  Michel,  307  ;  hybrida 
Sir  Dighton  Probyn.  274 ;  hybrida  Sir 
Trevor  Lawrence.  274,  325  ;  Kiempferi, 
culture  of,  427  ;  Spanish,  in  a  Scottish 
garden.  394 

Irises,  edging  a  paved  patb,  530 ;  Japanese, 
in  a  Cheshire  garden,  431 ;  new  Spanith, 
362  :  the  K'ag,  in*"reasing,  5<;'8 

Irish  notes,  2S7'  311.  347.  419,  480 

Ixora  floribunda,  treatment  of,  60 

J. 

Jasmine,    how    to    propagate    the,    496 : 

pruning  the  Winter,  43 
Journal  of  Kew  Guild,  197 

K. 

Kale,  a  new  hardy,  456 
Kelway,  Mr.  W.,  503 

Ke  w,  a  new  foreman  at.  110 ;  staff,  changes 
among,  99 


Laburnums,  the,  261 

Lseiias  and  Cattleyas,  337 

La  io-Cattleya,  a  new,  616:  Barbarossa 
Westoubirt  variety,  595  ;  Baroness 
Schroder  variety  Mme.  Henriette,  570; 
Black  Prince,  426:  C -runna  Wes'onbirt 
varitty,  570;  D'.  R.  Schiffraan  Weston- 
birt  variety.  247  ;  Eurylochu?,  27:1;  Fred 
Boyle  Kerch-ivise.  195;  Feronia,  307; 
Goldcrest.  218;  Golden  Oriole  Westou- 
birt variety,  451 ;  G  >ld&nch  euperba, 
94;  Invincible,  42*1;  Jason,  426:  King 
Minoel,  594:  Martinetii  The  Pnnce, 
354;  Mikido,  307:  XelthorpeB^^aucleik 
594;  Pizarro  Holford's  vari'-ty.  510; 
Pizarro  Wfstonbirc  variety,  lis,  56.'i 

Lapagerias.  7 

Larches  diseased,  23 

Lirkspurs  at  Eufield,  407 

Laurel  hedges  in  small  gardens,  £65 

Liurustiuus  and  Olearia,  iucreafeing  the, 
44S 

Lavender  hedge,  an  old,  500 ;  to  make  a, 
48  ;  how  to  increase,  168 

Lawns,  216,  329:  and  verges.  130,  194; 
fairy  rings  in.  14 

Lettuce  Cartel's  Holborn  Standard.  373 

Lettuces,  Cabbage,  in  Scot'and.  575 

Leucojum  vernum  Vagner'.  125 

Liboc^dms  macrolepi*.  615 

Lilac,  pruning  stand* rd,  319;  to  fi  *wtr  at 
Chribtmas,  439 

Lilies  and  how  to  grow  them,  429  ;  for  pot 
culture.  84  :  information  about,  22 : 
treatment  of,  595 

Lilium  auratum  from  Japan,  treatment  of, 
107;  candiflum,  disease  in,  455;  gigan- 
teum,  322;  myrioph^Uum,  398:  uepal- 
ense  at  Ambleside,  491 

Liliums.  information  a'-out.  47 

Lily,  the  Armenian  SnakeVhead,  389; 
the  Nankeen,  326 

Lithoapermum  piostratum  Heavenly  Blue, 
307 


London  Pride,  increasing,  44 
Lonicera      hildebrandiaua,     451 ; 

brandtii,  500 
Lopezia  mmiata,  363 
Lupine,  a  fine  Tree,  359 


M. 

Machines,  mowing,  305 

Magnolia  grandiflora  and  its  varieties.  432 

Mallows,  the  Tree,  314.  334 

Manure,  artificial,  187,  359;  for  Roses,  108 

Manures,   artificial,   223,   239,  262;    their 

uses  and  misu&es,  151 
Marigolds,  French  and  Afiican,  125 
Marrow,  the,  175  ;  the  Custard,  312 
Master  and  servatit  :  Notice.  366 
Mealy  bug  and  hydrocjanic  acid  gas.  ^~, 

211  ;  on  Viuts,  53,  123 
Meeouopsis  iutegrifulia.  299,  323 
Medal,  ihe  Dean  Hole,  274 
Melon  Baruet  Hill  Favourite,  4o3 ;    seeds 

growing   inside    a,    437  ;    the,    and    its 

culture,  127 
j  Melons,  206,  330  ;  in  framep,  h  >w  to  grow, 
'      103  ;  frame,  258 

I  MespUus,  the  Snowy,  in  America,  298 
I  Mic^,  field,  getting  rid  of,  50,  62,  87 
1  Michaelmas  Daisies,  34,  468 
Michaelmas  Daisy  E.  T.  Anderton,  523 
Mignonette  in  frames,  452 
Miltonia   bleuana  Sander's- variety,    218; 

Harwoodii,  354 
MontbretiaG.  Henley.  451  ;  Pageant,  451 
Mosses  in  Scotland,  455 
Mulberry  cutting,  a,  478 
Mulches  arid  when  to  apply  them,  269 
Mulchng.  317 
Mu&hroom  beds,  378;    preparing  manure 

for,  449;  house,  130;   how  to  erect,  24  ; 

measurement     and     heating    of,     272 ; 

spawn  in  meadow,  208 
Mushrooms  growing  in  a  cellar,  120 
Mydilelton   House:    Its  garden  and   ^'ar- 

deuer,  315 

N. 

Narcissi  diseased,  186  :  Poetaz,  267  ;  some 

of  the  newer.  399 ;  t^i  naturalise,  463 
Narcissus  Circlet,  147  ;  Elfrida  Pearson, 

409;    Engltheartii,   430;    Queen  of   the 

West,  147,  219  ;  W' bite  Star,  287 
Nectarine  leaves  diseased,  303 
Ntmesia  bybrida  Blue  Gem,  10»3 
Nepenthes,  how  to  propagate,  24 
Ntphrolepis    exaltaia     Marthallii.     570; 

lycopodfieoides,    247;     magniflca,     354; 

splendens,  595 
Xotice  between  roaster  and  servant,  l'i8 
Notospartium  Carmichaeliae,  47S 
Nurseries,  fruit  trees  at  Messrs.  Veitch's, 

505 :    Sir   John  Gore-Booth'a  Lissadell, 

301 
Nursery,  an  aauatic  and  marsh,  279 
Nut  walk,  the  planting  of  a,  506 
Nuts,  iH 

Nutt«llia  cerasiformis.  175 
Nymphaea  nio''reana,  :>7:^ ;  stellata  Earl  of 

Warwick,  403 
Nymphseas,  growing  in  tubs,  582 


0 lontioda  Bradehawise  Cookson's  variety, 
147 ;  chelsiensis.  112 ;  Ernest  Hemy, 
124  ;  Goodsonii.  426  ;  keighleyenae,  lis  ; 
Jutelea,  118 ;  Vuylstekese  crawshayana, 
270 

Odontoglosaum  Aglaon,  273  ;  amabile 
fowltrianum,  307  ;  ardentissimuni  Nor- 
man Cookson,  46,  53 ;  x  ardentissimum 
Phcebe.  95:  common  section  of,  409; 
crispum  Angela.  195  ;  loothristieuse 
anreo-futvum,  218  :  Dreadnought,  Uu  ; 
Magali  Sander,  11  ;  roirum  Emperor  of 
India,  273  ;  myonianum.  147  ;  percultum 
Ck)okson's  variety,  104  ;  Prmcess  Victoria 
Alexandra.  273  ;  Sylvia  Westonbtrt 
variety,  194 ;  Theodora,  281 

Olearia  nilida,  447 

Oocidium  Charlesworthii,  273:  bicallosum 
Sander's  variety.  11:  retermeyerianum, 
273 

Onions,  246:  harvesting,  425  :  how  to  rope, 

460 
Ononis  rotundifoliu?,  375 
Orange  trees  losing  thtir  leaves,  ItK) 
Oranges.  206 
Orctiil.  how  and  when  to  repot  an.  580; 

land,  in.  3 
Orchids,  21*4  :  interesting  at  Cape  Colony. 

187  ;sir  m-st  popular  (first  prize  » s  a) ), 

1*5;  the    hardy    Ladys    .clipper,     444 ; 

vitality  of,  2W 
Ornithcgalum  uarhonei  se  pyiamidale,  602 
Oitmwfck  a  roagnifica,  374,  407 
Ourisia  coccinea.  554 
Ouri&ias  and  their  culture,  435 
Oxalis  tnneaphylla,  339 


Paeonia  Leonora,  330.  350 ;  Queen  of 
Singles,  300  :  Veitchii,  542 

Pbb' nies  diseased,  500;  herbaceous,  335, 
-i.S6  :  the  Tree,  313 

Paeoiiv  seedlings,  319 

Palms  for  market,  112;  information  about, 
272 

Pampas  Grass,  cutting  down.  390 ;  treat- 
ment of,  after  flowering,  547 

Pancrauums,  25,^ 

Pansies,  117,  605,  246 ;  and  their  culture, 
518 :  and  Violas,  401 ;  fancy,  selection  of, 
132  ;  raising  from  eetrts,  316 

Pansy,  the  Butterfly  Tufted,  311 

Parsley  for  the  winter,  569;  promoted, 
336  ;  trials.  162 

Parsnips  and  Onions,  118 

Pathways,  design  in  garden,  555 

Pea,  a  good  malucrop,  421 :  Rearguard,  76 
Senator,  430  ;  Sutton's  Earty  Giant,  336 

Peas,  94,  2u6;  early,  45;  garden,  123; 
October  and  November,  374  ;  late-sown. 
rotting  in  soil,  380;  new,  at  Bedford,  488  ; 
notes  on  cuiiuary,  504  ;  Sugar,  for  aum- 
mer  use,  241 

Peach,  a  ^'ood  early,  324  ;  and  Nectarine 
trees  in  sprici:,  145  ;  houses,  182  ;  leaf- 
curl,  a  cure  for,  87  :  leaves  perforated, 
260  ;  trees,  the  cropping  of,  404 

Peaches,  106;  and  Nectarines,  118, 130,194  ; 
in  a  small  greenhouse,  444,  478 

Pear  and  Fig  trees,  391  :  Jules  Guyot, 
504  ;  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  95 

Pelargonium,  a  black-ieaved,  :i30,  359 ; 
His  Majesty.  594 

Pelargoniums  for  winter  flowering.  377 ; 
propagation  of,  192;  show,  iancy  and 
regal,  .'.76 

Pentatemon  Myddelton  Gem,  5io,  554 

Perennials  and  biennials,  the  best,  and 
how  to  raise  ihem  from  seed  (first  prize 
essay;,  237  ;  root  propagation  of,  576 

Pergola  at  Montgreenan  House  Gardens. 
483 

Periploca  graca,  43.' 

Periatropbe  speciosa,  42 

Pesta  in  vegetable  garden,  524 

Phlox  Mrs.  E.  H.  Jenkins,  415 

Phloxes,  perennial,  418;  ibe  autumn- 
flowering,  465 

Photographs,  Mr.  Wilson's  Chinese  442 

Pink,  a  new,  330 

Pinks,  437  :  increasing  the,  329.  352 

Plan  for  a  border.  11 

Plane  leaves  diseased,  3'.il 

Plant,  a  little-known  grtenhouse,  205;  a 
free-flowering,  for  the  greei  house,  7 

Plants,  bedding,  246 :  bedding,  cuttings 
of,  389:  bedding,  distance  apart  for, 
205;  climbing,  170,  258;  in  outdoor 
garden,  254  :  exhibiting  h.er**aceous,  415; 
foralatte.  248;  foratank,147;  for  border- 
ing a  drive,  119:  forced,  218:  for  city 
garden,  219 ;  lor  cut  flowers,  132  ;  for 
hedges,  463  ;  for  lierbaceous  border,  571  ; 
for  houte  facing  north.  120;  for  housi  s 
of  archit-ctural  merit,  552;  for  narrow 
border,  ■2:i2  ;  in  flower  on  Chi  i<itmas  Da) , 
27  ;  for  pond,  271 ;  for  room  decoration, 
618;  for  small  greenhouse  in  winter, 
561;  for  water-side.  617:  for  small 
rockery,  47  ;  for  west  wall,  107  :  frozen, 
what  to  do  with,  5S5  ;  herbaceous,  169, 
3^6 ;  how  to  stake  border,  305 ;  on 
flagged  pathway,  611 ;  perennial,  for 
draughty  places,  535:  pot  and  stove, 
182;  propagating  bedding.  385  ;  staking, 
231 ;  atocks  of  bedding  out,  tOo ;  atove, 
how  to  manage,  509 ;  sub-tropical,  for 
bedding,  172 ;  summer  treatment  of  hard- 
wooded,  228  ;  tender,  and  the  winter, 
251 ;  the  treatment  of  window,  21  ; 
right  and  wrong  way  of  staking,  340 ; 
room,  and  their  culture,  280;  water  and 
bog.  214  ;  window,  propagation  of,  449 

Plum  Denniston's  Superb.  IG 

Plums,  some  good  culinary,  102 ;  the 
culture  of,  under  glass,  14 

Poles,  Larch,  for  pergola,  232 

Poinsettlas,  culture  of,  208 

Poisons  and  Pharmacy  Bill,  15 

Polyanthuses  and  Primroses,  increasing, 
257  ;  exhit'itirg.  11 

Polygonum  balds chuani cum  not  flowering, 
538,  574 

Polypodium  glaucum  critpum,  3**7 

Folyatichum  aculeatum  pukherrimurn 
piumoaum,  427  ;  lonchitis,  29S 

Poplar  leaves  disfigured,  403 

Poppy,  the  Iceland,  65 

Potato,  Midlothian  Early,  186.  210 ;  sets 
experiments  with,  74  ;  Sutton's  White 
City,  26 

Potatoes,  118;  and  bitic  slag,  234;  and 
Peas  for  1909  61 ;  black  scab  of,  516  ; 
greening  seed.  454;  lifting  eiuly,  ;lo3; 
manures  for.  160 ;  new,  at  (  hrisi  mas,  87, 
151 :  new,  in  January  39 ;  obtainiig 
large,  34:i ;  on  north  aspect.  2:i4  ;  raising 
new  varieties  of,  234 ;  yellow-fleshed,  217 


The  Garden,"  December  25,  1909.1 


INDEX. 


PotentUla  atrosaDgoinea  Gibson's  Scarlet, 

474 

Primroses,  deceneration  in,  251 ;  Polyan- 
thus, 17S,  -223,  286 

Primula  bulleyaua,  270 ;  Forrestii,  218, 
247  ;  littoniana,  354,  361:  obconica,  455  ; 
siueuBis  at  Swanley,  171  ;  Unique  Im- 
proved, 247 ;  viscoaa  and  Its  varieties, 
566 

Primulas,  Chinese,  at  Messrs.  Carter's,  1S3 ; 
Cinerarias  and  Calc^olaiias,  340;  the 
hardy,  243.  278,  239,  3iX»,  313,  338, 361.  374 

Privet,  increaviag  tue,  32 

Propagation,  the  value  of  leaf,  71 

Pniniug,  summer,  366 

Prunus  tubhirtella,  186 

Pteris  aquiiina  con  eata,  171 

Ptychoraphis  siebertiaua,  274 

Pyrethrum  Langport  Scarltt,  177 

Pyrethrumsand  their  culture,  9 

^rus  floribunda,  291 ;  sinensis  Simonii, 
600 


Kaffiatape,  sale  of,  418 

Rambler,  too  much.  339 

Eambles  iu  South- West  Counties,  369 

Kamondia  pyrenaica  alba,  374 

Ranunculus,  how  to  grow  the  florist's, 
129  ;  Lyalli,  551 

Ra-pberries,  106,  390 

Rata,  war  on,  iu  Scotland,  150 

Rehmannia  augulata,  538 

Rhododendron,  a  seedling,  19  ;  beds, 
plants  for,  451 ;  Pink  Pearl,  372  ;  Souliei, 
270,  :i77 ;  Giil's  Triumph,  615  :  Hodgsonii, 
588 

Rhododendrons  at  Regent's  Park,  236 ; 
early  flowering,  203 

Rhubarb  Dawe'a  Challenge,  195  ;  forcing, 
568 ;  when  to  plant,  464 

Rhus  siuica,  474 

Riviera  notes,  42,  51,  136,  187 

Rock  garden,  a  wiuilow-sill,  503;  an 
interesting,  409 ;  in  Lincoln,  17 ;  pre- 
paiiog  ground  for,  631;  plants,  noces  on, 
155  ;  steps  in  the,  362 

Rockeries,  246 

Rockery,  a  simple  and  beautiful,  327  :  the 
new,  533 

Rodgersia  pianata,  531,  551 

Roof  gardeuing,  161 

Rosa  laevigata  blooming  at  Christmas,  99  ; 
lucida  alba,  3^6 

Rose,  a  beautiful  Boursalt,  387;  a  good, 
for  amateurs,  93;  a  newg  «lden  btdding, 
553;    a  pretty    China,   327;    a   yellow- 
flowered  Monthly  19;  American  Pillar, 
273,  542;  Analysis,  Mr.  E.  Mawley's,  97, 
143  ;  Annual  for  1909,  210  ;   Arial,  354  ; 
Betty,  579;    bloom,   a  deformed,    331; 
bloomEi.  dessing,  466,  491  ;   bob  David- 
son, 361  ;  Brunoni  on  a  Surrey  house, 
493;    bushes,   unpruued,  347;  Carmine 
Pillar  as  a    standard,   67  ;    in  pot,  48 ; 
Caroline  Testout,  scent  iu,  39  ;  Chateau 
de  Clos  VoQgeot,  164  ;  Claudius,  543,  522  ; 
Climbing  Captain  Christy  as  a  staudHpl, 
387;  Climhir.g  Mrs    W.  J,   Grant,   203;! 
cuttings,  557 :  C  W.  Egan  in  America. 
515  ;  Coquina,  273  ;  David  Harum,  503  ; 
Dorothy      Perkns    in    America,     495  ; 
Duchess  of  Weliinaton,  354  ;  eshihitiog, 
the  beginner  in,  492 ;  Eyusford  Beauty, 
253;   fact-growing  climbing,  fir  green- 
house,   96  ;    fence  at  Aldenham,    514  ; 
Flower  of  Faiifleld,  510;  foliage  injured, 
323;  Fortune's  Yellow  at  Castle  Menzi^s,  , 
371 ;  garden,  notes  from  a  Surrey,  299  : 
Grace  Mol>neux.  354  ;  Giiiss  an  Teplitz 
from  cuttings,  153;  Hector  Mackenzie, 
253 ;    hedtre    facing   east,    120 ;    Jersey  ■ 
Beauty,   210 ;   Jessie,  273,   551 ;   Juliet,  | 
378  ;   Kronprii  zessin  Cecile,   386  ;  Lady  j 
Gay  in  a   Hiehgate  garden,  579  ;  Lady 
WMterlow,  435;   La  France  de  '98,  435,  i 
599  ;     Lyon,   270,   276,     459  ;    Marechal  ; 
Niel,  213;  Margaret,  273;  Mark  Twain, 
19;   Maiquise  de  Siriely,  114;  Maiden's 
Blush,  5  ;    Mi'dred    Grant,   346;    Mme. 
Alfred      Carriere,      101,      199  :       Mme. 
Melanie       Soupert,     177  ;      M.      Paul 
Lede.   469;    Mrs.  A.   R.   Waddell,  470:  ■ 
Mrs.   Myles   Kennedy,   67;    Mis.   Taft, 
273  ;  Paradi<ie.  228 :   raisers,  famous,  in 
the  British  Isles.  4S9  ;    Rh^a  Reid,  171, 
191 ;  season,  prospects  of  the,  309 :  Sera- 
phini,  599  ;   show  in  the  Isle  of  Wight. 
333 ;     sh  tw,    the     National,    354,    :?3S  ; 
Society,  suggestions  for  the  Xatioii'-I, 
335,  371 ;    stocks    and  their  uses,   213  :  i 
Tauseudtchon,    50;     the    scented    audi 
scentless,  265;  Una,  fruits  of,  126;  walk, 
an  interesting,  3S0  :  Warrior,  493 


RoseW.E  Lippiatt,  164;  White Kil'amey, 
52,  22S :  W.  Allen  Richardson,  337  ;  W. 
Speed,  354 

Rosemary,  cnltiire  of,  334 ;  increasing  the. 
29-2 

Roses,  a  hedge  of,  101 ;  among  the,  351, 
414.  420 ;  and  Auriculas  at  Slough,  263  ; 
and  mildew,  611 ;  and  green  fly,  134  ; 
and  Rose- growing,  5 ;  artificial  manures 
for,  3<J3  :  at  Mesars.  Low's  nurseries,  431  ; 
at  Tunbridge  Wells,  527  ;  at  Wisley,  358  ; 
Banksian,  101 ;  British-raised,  407,   501, 

■  515,  528  :  by  the  sea,  29 ;  classification  of. 
18,  63,  115.  1-22.  135,  151;  climbing,  449; 
current  work  among,  277;  cut,  how  to 
keep  fresh,  413  ;  dark-coloured,  24  ;  ex- 
hibiting, 274  ;  feeding,  291  ;  for  autumn 
flowering,  345 ;  f-»r  Brazil,  427 ;  for 
cold  greenhouse,  50O;  for  cutting,  211; 
for  decoration,  495 ;  for  garden  and 
exhibition,  452 ;  lor  light  soil,  547  ; 
for  ntw  Rose  garden,  595 ;  for  two 
beds,  451 ;  for  windy  gardens,  459  : 
forthcoming,  &S ;  fragrant  autumn- 
flowering  tor  India,  143;  grafting  in 
pote,  12 ;  how  to  plant,  544  ;  in  a  North 
London  garden,  469  ;  in  a  Nottingham- 
shire nursery,  499 ;  in  greenhouses  and 
pots,  205  ;  in  pots  to  flower  in  winter, 
367:  in  small  tubs,  1'3S ;  in  the  Midlands, 
467 ;  in  town  gaiden,  132 ;  in  West 
I/jtbian,  43'):  large-flowered  climbing, 
for  pergola,  96;  manurirg,  183;  ma- 
nuring autumn-planted,  172;  methods 
of  pruning  dwarf,  144  ;  mildew  on,  467  ; 
mildew-proof,  574 ;  near  London,  2u7  ; 
new,  291  ;  new,  a  gold  mednl  for,  574 ; 
new,  at  Holland  Park  Show,  360  ;  newer, 
the,  444  453.  469  479,  492,  515,  528,  543, 
552.  567, 579, 589, 602 ;  not«8  on  the  newer, 
397, 629 ;  uld,  498  ;  old-fashioned,  in  Scot- 
land, 346;  on  sandy  soil,  2;  on  own 
roots,  443 ;  planting  climbing,  557 : 
planting  lor  cutting,  143;  potting,  lal ; 
propagation  of,  by  cuttiuga,  424 ;  pTO- 
t#cting  in  winter,  6'"*2;  pruning,  1-20, 
126,  157 ;  seasonable  notes  on,  41,  494 ; 
sixty  best  exhibition,  120  ;  some  ea-  ly 
June,  265 ;  some  good  crimson,  439 ; 
some  gwd  garden,  339  ;  some  of  the  beat 
white,  242 ;  some  uncommon,  479 ; 
spring  planting,  177 ;  Tea,  for  exhibition, 
404;  ofgood  shape,  12  ;  the  classification 
of,  75 ;  the  cross-fertilisation  of.  372  ;  the 
beet,  for  cold,  late  gardens,  36i> ;  Tonk's 
manure  for,  271 :  three  useful  143  ;  two 
good  new,  420 ;  unpruned  bushes  of.  327 ; 
Viscountess  Folkestone  and  Bouquet 
d'Or,  339  ;  weeping,  in  tuba,  133 


Sage  and  its  culture,  26S 

Salad,  a  valuable  winter.  456 

Salads,  summer,  270 

Salvia  argentea.  517 ;  aplendeos,  356 

Hand,  sea,  and  its  uses,  2&4 

Sarocci  ruscifolia,  11 

Savoy  I'niversal,  348 

Saxifraga  apiculata  alba,  195.  201 ;  Cli* 
branii,  247,  266  ;  decipiens  Arkwrightli, 
247  ;  decipiens  hvbrida  grandifl  ira.  219 ; 
decipiens  Miss  Willmott,  270.  289  ;  lin- 
^ulata  lantoscana,  ^z  ;  ambrusa,  131  ; 
Stribnryi.  214 

Saxifrage,  a  new.  and  ita  relations,  538 ; 
a  yellow-flowered,  3V>8 

Saxifrages,  Crusted,  in  the  rock  garden  at 
Kew,  66 

Seabiouses,  information  about.  72 

Sihizanthns  Beauty  of  Trent,  307 

SciUa  LUio-Hyacinthus  albus,  266 

Scillas,  the,  17 

Scolopendrium  vulgare  crispum  muricato- 
flrabriatum,  307 ;  multifldum  crispum, 
307 

Seakale  for  amateurs,  157  ;  propagating  by 
root  cuttiui^s,  8  ;  seedlings,  transplant- 
ing, 217;  thongs,  planting,  158;  under 
glass,  how  to  treat,  69 

Seed-sowing  in  the  flower  garden.  2i;i0  : 
under  glass,  89 

Seeds,  the  germination  of,  69 

Shortia  galacifolia,  139 

sh^w.  The  Gardes,  39,  63 

Shrewsbury  show,  443 

Shrub,  a  new  hardy  flowering,  312 ;  border, 
winter  work  in  the.  6<Xl 

Shrubs,  a  few  good,  64  ;  a  wild  garden  of, 
37 ;  best  evergreen,  for  winter  effect 
(first  prize  essay),  25 :  climbing,  for 
planting  now,  5&3 ;  evergreen,  for 
winter  beauty,  525  ;  for  arches  and  wall, 
132 


Shrubs  for  beds,  59  ;  for  Torquay,   524 : 
hardy  evergreen,  51 :  in  spring  bedding. 
15,  54;    newly  planted,  245;    planting, 
581 ;    some  good  white -flowering,  3S3  ; 
the    treatment  of   forced,    112 ;    three 
beautiful  ornamental-fruited.  65  ;  three 
good,   312 ;    unseasonable  flowering  of, 
27  ;  wall-trained  flowering,  222 
Sigmatostalix  Elise,  273 
Sloes,  diseased,  356 
Slugs.  205  :  a  cure  for,  262,  311 
Snapdragons,  39  ;  and  their  cnlture,  C 
Snowdrop,  the  Cicilian.  9":i ;   the  Crimean, 

!     ^~ 

;  Snowdrops  and  how   to   grow  them,  1 ; 
,      at  Castle  Menzies,  141  ;  for  table  decora- 
tion, 39  :  from  seeds,  142 

SoU  inoculation,  145 

Sofhora  J-ip'.nica,  19 

Sophro-Cattleya  Blackii,  451;  Clive,  171: 
Thwaitesii,  147 
!  Spinach,  New  Zealand,  252 
I  Spiraea  Veitchii,  373  :   venusta  magnifica, 
i       402 

Spiraeas,    early- flowering,   578 ;    how     to 
force,  470 ;   shrubby,  and  their  culture. 
43,  53 
Stephanotia,  propagating,  59 

I  Stembereias  lutea  and  niicrantha.  84 
Stocks,  Brompton,  and  their  culture,  317 

i  Strawberries,  &4  ;  a  hint  on  planting.  461 ; 

'      autumn -fruiting,  540 :    early,  outdoors, 

j      :559 :  forcing,  29;   for  late  district*.  40S ; 

I      in  cold  frames,  417  ;    in  pots,  146 :    in 

I      1909,  382  ;  some  of  the  newer.  275 ;  work 

j      among  the,  245 

i  Strawberry  Atkin's  Contiouity,  511,  550; 

1      beds,  246 ;  Ge.  rge  Monro,  270 :   Laxton's 

>      Perpetual,  474  ;  the  htme  of  the,  395 

!  Streptocarpus,  hybrid,  549,  599 

I  Sundew,  an  Australian,  576 

i  Sunflower  seeds  for  poultiy,  57 

'  Sulphur,    burning,  in    fruit  bouses,   199 ; 

'      for  red  spider  in  Peach  house,  60 

I  Support,  a  new  wire  plant,  553 

I  Swede  Turnip  greens,  162 

'  Sweet  Briars  for  hedge,  4i>4 
Sweet  Com  in  America,  262 
Sweet  Pea  aims,  82  :  Blanche  Stevena,  330  ; 
chat,  4,  31,  55,  77.  100,  124,  154,  17S,  200, 
225,  -255,  279.  300.  326,  349,  362,  375,  398, 
422,  445,  468,  492  517.  541.  565  589,  617; 
CoLeen,  355  ;  Doris  I's  ier,  355 ;  Edna 
Cnwin,  378  ;  cross  -  fertilising  remi- 
niscences, 79 :  Masterpiece,  354  ;  Mrs. 
H.  Bell  Improved,  354  ;  Sirs.  Ireland, 
375 ;  Mrs.  Townaend,  354 ;  Paradise 
Apple  Blossom,  307  ;  <4aeen  of  Spain,  75  ; 
Society,  174,  413  :  Society's  classification, 

I  530;  outings,  310.  358;  in  1908,  76: 
stem  sports.  25o ;  Stirling  Stent,  33i-'» ; 
trials  at  Reading,  371  ;  trials  for  1909,  2  ; 
for  1910,  58*i ;  WhiU  Waved,  113 
Sweet  Peas  .^i,  317,  \i~  ;  and  their  decora- 
tive uses,  83  ;  and  Rosrs,  manure  for.  83  ; 
at  Great  Ry  burgh,  .Vi7  ;  at  Mark's  Tev, 
455 ;  at  Temple  Show,  2S2 :  autumn 
sowing  of,  335 ;  Cupid,  growing,  135 : 
Cupid,  in  barrels,  7s:,  158:  Cupid,  in 
a  barrel,  99 ;  early,  224 ;  eaten  off,  59  : 
Dobbie's  King  and  Mrs.  Ireland,  l::>5; 
for  exhibition,  "^h  ;  for  garden  decoration 
{first  prize  essaj).  73  ;  for  garden  decora- 
tion (second  prize  essay),  113  ;  for  seed, 
growing,  1<_>6  ;  gathering  for  exhibition, 
79;  germiuation  of,  223  ;  howl  growroy. 
49 ;  in  sandy  soil,  7S  ;  judging.  37?  ; 
planting,  22".^  ;  raising  in  turves,  142; 
sowing,  162;  staking.  244  :  the  Eckford, 
182  :  the  Telemly,  477 

Sweet  Williim,  a  curious,  546 

Syringe,  a  new  spraying,  147 


T. 

Tamarisks  for  inland  planting,  564 

Temple  Show,  266 

Tenant's  compensation,  '^h 

Theatre,  a  garden,  442 

Thyme  and  Heather,  paths  of,  159 

Tobacco,  curing,  502  ;  making  from 
Nicotiana  affinis.  416 

Tomato  plants,  158 

Tomatoes,  a  use  for  green,  515 ;  outdoor, 
241 ;  how  to  grow,  22:8 

Tourenia  Foumieri,  105 

Tree  stump,  destroying  a,  96 

Trees  and  shrubs,  effect  of  winter  on,  at 
£ew,  380  :  for  water-side.  173 ;  in  New 
Zealand,  483  :  newly  planted,  19i 

Trees,  deciduous,  for  screens,  348  ;  flower- 
ing, on  lawns,  105  ;  how  to  stake  young, 
487  ;  interesting  method  of  removing, 
250 ;  our  wa>-side,  37  ;  removing,  195 


Trees,  staking  newly  planted,  1'^^^  ;  taking 
cuttings  of  flowering,  296 

Trillium  grandiflorum,  16* 

Triteleia  uniflnra  in  the  greenhouse,  39 

Tritomas  or  Ejiiphoflasin  early  spriLg.  142 

Tuberoses,  culture  of,  195 

Tubs  and  window-boxes,  preparing,  14C 
I  Tulip,  introduction  of  the,  430 :  show,  the 
National,  -233 ;  the  glamour  of  the,  457 

Tulips,  a  new  race  of  branching,  554 ;  at 
Long  Ditton,  262 ;  for  amateurs,  nut- 
door  culture  of,  521 ;  for  border,  511 ; 
forced,  1S4 ;  in  grass,  31,  62,  37:  3Iay- 
fiowering.  at  Colchester,  306 ;  May- 
floweriug  or  Cottage,  565  ;  notes  on ,  446 ; 
notes  on  early,  432 ;  three  yellow  Cottage, 
413 ;  without  roots,  72 

Tallica  Saxifraga  fiote-pleno,  4Qci 


Vallota  porpurea  and  its  culture,  27 
,  Vanda  cieruJea  Dreadnought,  426 ;   Wat- 
i      son  IT.  46 
Vanilla  aromatica,  254 
Vases,  novel,  334 

Vegetable  competitions  at  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society's  m-^eting?,  51;   exhibi- 
tion, a    national,    562:     garden,    seed- 
sowing  in  the.  23:  show,  a  good,  454; 
Society,  a  National.  198,  211  ;   wby  cot  a 
National:  139;   the  National,  222,  223, 
I       238,  -297.  3-22,  442.  491,  f^Tl 
j  Vegetaolesand  salads  from  seeds,  40 ;  and 
the  severe  weather.  «52 :  at  The  Gaeden 
Show,  411 :  distiance   apart  to  sow   or 
'     plant,  81 :   for  use  in  early  spring,  431 ; 
new,  466 
Veitch,  a  tribute  to  Mr.   Harry  J. ,  2SS  ; 
Memorial  Trust,  74 :  Portrait  Fond,  29S, 
-299,  33i;i 
Verbascum  pulverulentum,  422,  442,  455 
hybrid,  3:^7 
I  Verbenas,  propagating,  34 
'  Veronicas,  increasing  the  shrubby,  532 
'  Viburnum  Carleaii,  247 
Viburnums,  three  good.  6 
Vine  borders,  474 ;  culture,  hiota  on,  102, 
l;i8,  176.  ^O",  303  ;   leaves  diseased.  347  ; 
the   Grape,  as   a   hardy  climber,  275  : 
treatment  of  a,  132 
Vinegar  Plant,  where  to  obtain  a,  419 
Vines  bleeding,  248  ;  how  to  prune,  21,  56  : 
in  indifferent  health,  treatment  of,  453 ; 
'      in    pots,    232:     insect    pests    on,    232; 
methods   of   renovating,  421 ;  Muscat. 
'      gone  wrong,  72  :  outdoor,  at  Wisley,  15 ; 
planting,  l'.»4  :  pot,  426 ;   for  table  de- 
coration, 481 ;  restoring  to  health,  513 
Viola  comuta.  3*5 
Violas,  best  bedding.  :594 
Violet,     cultivation    of    the    Neapolitan, 
65,  100  :  culture  for  market,  4* ;   plants 
sicklv.  95 
Violet*,  117,  213  ;  in  frames.  157.  170,  ^Tc, ; 
wild.  325  :  winter  treatment  of  Sweet,  42 
VittB  Wilsonae,  510 


W, 

Walks  and  their  upkeep,  33 

Wallace.  Mr.  R-  W.,  74 

Wallflowers,    169,  353 ;    from   seed,  279  ; 

two  good,  289 
Water  and  rock  garden,  171 
Watercress  and    its  culture,    5*5 :    as    a 

s&Iad,  405 
Water  Lilies  for  pond,  131 ;  from  seed?. 

195  ;  in  tubs.  4:53 
Water  Lily,  the  Royal,  363 
Weather,  the  cold,  13ii 
Weeds  and  insect  pests,  -293 
Willow,  a  rare,  277  ;  scale  insect,  the,  471 
WUson,  Mr.  E.  fl.,  323 
Window-hoses,  521  ;  a  note  on,  223 
Winter  Cherry,  the,  as  a  standard,  616 
Wisley,  notes  from,  358 
Wistaria  a  fine.  64;  multijuga  alba,  312  , 

the,  19*  with  bare  branches,  23 
Woodlice  in  greenhouse,  272 


Yew  hedges,  6 

Yews,  pruning,  403 

Yucca  treculiana  canaliculata,  254 

Yuccas  flowering  in  December,  2 


Zygo-Colai  Charleaworthii.  5d4 


INDEX. 


["The  Garden,"  December  25,  1909. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  . 


A<:acia  dealbata,  106 

Acanthus  spinosus,  617 

Anemone  neniorosa  robinsoniana,  206 

Apple  Bismarck,  506  ;    Lord  Suffield,  40  ; 

Rev.  W.  Wilks,  504:  ehoot  attacked  by 

aphis,   395;  St.   Everard,  529;  William 

Crump,  29 
Arbor- viiie,  propagating  the,  472 
Arch  clothed  with  RosfS,  46-S 
Asclepias  Dou<:lasii,  607 
Aspidistra,  repotting  and  dividing  the,  ISO 
Asplenium  bulbiferum,  2S1 
Aucuba  and  Euonymus,  propagating,  412 
Auriculas,  raising  and  increasing  alpine, 

204 


Barr,  Mr.  P.  Rudolph,  portrait  of,  5S7 
Bedding,  summer,  for  small  garden,  256 
Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  52 ;   Patrie,  89 
Border  and  wall  garden  at  Holland  Park, 

355 
Brachyglottis  repanda,  590 
Brodifea  uniHora,  255 
Bulbs,  planting  in  turf.  556 

C. 

Camaasia  Leichtlinii,  446 

Campanula   punctata,    423  ;    pycamidalis 

compacta,  64 
Candytuft,  propagating  the  evergreen,  3S8 
Canterbury  Bells,  a  border  of,  602 
Carnation,  vaae  of  a  white  seedling,  613 ; 

Jupiter,  410 
Carnations,  a  bed  of  Perpetual-tloweriug, 

577  ;  disbudding,  4S5  ;  Perpetual-flower- 
ing, and  their  culture,  68 
Ceanothus  Gloire  de  Versailles  in  a  High- 
gate  garden, 530 
Celery  culture  for  beginners,  304 
Choisya  ternata,  399 
Chrysanthemum  J.  B.   Lowe,  600;    orna- 

tum  at  Kew,  90;  Ronald  Ferguson,  165 
Chrysanthemums     after    flowering,    692; 

final  potting  of,  32S ;  propagation  of,  by 

cuttings,  20 
Cineraria  flavescens,  252 
Clintonia  umbellata,  459 
Club-root  in  Cauliflowers,  484 
Colchicum  speciosum  album,  351 
Convolvulus  mauritanicus,  398 
Coral  spot  fungus,  485 
Cornus  capitata  at  the  mouth  of  the  River 

Dart,  411 
Cosmos  Lipinnatus,  the  white,  125 
Crinum  yemense,  455 
Crocus  flowering  without  soil,  27  ;  Sieberi 

versicolor,  201 
Crocuses  in  grass,  5S9  ;  at  Marlow,  214 
Currants,  pruning  Black,  92;  pruning  Red 

and  White,  80 
Cyclamen,    the    giant  Persian,   178  ;    the 

ordinary  Persian,  179 
Cypripedium  house,  a  group  in   Messrs. 

Cypher's,  3  ;  pubescens,  445  ;  spectabile, 

a  cluster  of,  577 
Cytisus  kewensis  at  Kew.  228 

D. 

Daffodil  show  at  Birmingham,  226 
Daffodils   at  Wolfeton  House,  507  ;  in  an 

Irish  garden,  347  ;  massed  with  carpet  of 

blue  Muscari,  115;  wild,  in  grass,  275 
Dahlia  shoots,  thiuning,  341 
Daisies,  a  potf  ul  of  double,  91 
Daphne  blagayana,  241 
Delphinium    Beauty    of    Langport,    551 ; 

Moerbeimii,  628  • 

Dendrobium  wardianum,  199 
Disa   crassicornis,   varieties  of,  in  South 

Africa,  187 
Douglas,  Sir.  James,  portrait  of,  251 
Drosera  binata,  576 

E. 

Eremuri  at  Easton  Grey  Gardens,  359 
EremuruB  robustus    ehvestanus,  543 ;   ro- 

bustufl  in  Rev.  F.  Page- Itoberts's  garden, 

519 
Eucryphia  cordifolia,  471 
Exhibit,  Messrs.  Webb's,  at  Leamington, 

427 


FernB,  one  of  the  Holly,  2Sl 

Flowers,  a  flood  of,  in  May-time,  155  ;  bor- 
dered with  turf  in  Mr.  J.  V.  Milne's 
garden,  591 


Forsythia  suspensa,  243 
Freesias,  well-grown,  at  Glastonbury,  142 
Fiuit,  first  prize    collection   at  Garden 
Show,  386,  392 


Garden,  a  corner  of  the  wild,  at  Walmsgate, 
434  ;  a  wall,  at  Lissadell,  302 ;  in  China 
(the  German  Consulate).  190  ;  of  Myddel- 
ton  House,  in  the,  315  ;  show,  general 
view  of,  386  ;  views  in  a  white,  540 

Geese.  Barnacle,  630 

Gentiana  veitchiorum,  479 

Gerard,  John,  portrait  of,  614 

Greums,  dividing,  632 

Gladiolus  Haine,  139  ;  Mark's  Barn,  140 

Gloxinias  flowering  same  year  as  raised 
from  seed,  28 

Gooseberries  and  Currants,  summer  prun- 
ing, 364  ;  propagating,  604 ;  pruning  and 
increasing,  104 

Gtourd,  the  Snake,  at  Kew,  154 

Grafting,  cleft,  156 ;  crown  or  rind,  128 ; 
fruit  trees,  116 

Grape  Vine  as  hardy  climber,  276 


H. 

Helenium  Riverslea  Beauty,  518 

Herbs,  two  useful,  216 

Honeysuckle,  propagation  of,  436 

Hyacinths  and  Narcissi  in  pots,  400 ; 
Feather,  467 ;  Tulips  and  Crocuses,  pot- 
ting, 520 

Hyacinthus  azureus,  131 

Hydrangea  in  a  tub,  419 


Iris  hybrida  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  325 
Irises  edging  a  paved  pathway,  528 ; 
Japanese,  by  the  water-side  at  Astle 
Hall.  431;  Spanish,  at  Duns,  396;  the 
Flag,  increasing,  508 ;  the  new  Dutch, 
349 


Jasmine,  how  to  propagate,  496 


K. 

Kelway,  Mr.  W.,  portrait  of,  503 
Kentia  forsteriana.  111 
Kniphofla  Northise,  480 


Lselio-Cattleya  Mikado,  313 ;  Nelthorpe 
Beauclerk,  616 ;  Pizarro  Weatonbirt 
variety,  563 

Lavatera  rosea  splendens,  314 

Lavender,  how  to  increase,  168 

Laurustinus  and  Olearia,  increasing,  448 

Leaves,  propa;,'ation  by  means  of,  71 

Lettuce  Carter's  Holborn  Standard,  373 

Leucojum  vernum  Vagneri,  124 

Lilies  of  t^e  Valley  used  for  table  decora- 
tion, 676 

Lilium  myriophyllum,  397  ;  testaceum  at 
Kew,  326 

London  Pride,  increasing,  44 

Lupinus  arboreus  at  Bournemoath,  360 

Lycaste  Skinneri,  99 


M. 

Marigold,  dwarf  French,  127 

Meconopsis  integrifolia,  299  ;  W'allichii  as 

a  wild  garden  plant,  434 
Melons,  a  good  crop  of,  103 
Mespilus.  the  Snowy,  at  Warwick,  239 


Narcissus  albicans  (moschatus),  41  ;  Barrii 
conspicuus.  599  ;  Elfrida  Pearson,  408  ; 
incognita,  301  ;  Poetaz  Irene,  267  ;  Tela- 
monius  plenus  in  the  grass  at  Kew,  227  ; 
White  Star,  287 

Nymphuea  marliacea  albida  in  a  tub,  433  ; 
stellata  Earl  of  Warwick,  420 


Odontioda  Bradshawite  Cookson's  variety, 
137  ;  ehelsiensis,  112 


Odontoglossum    ardentissimum    Norman 

Cooksoii,  53 
Olearia  iiitida,  447,  480 
Onions,  how  to  rope,  460 
Orchid  house,  part  of,  in  Foochow,  190; 

how  and  when  to  repot  an,  580 
Oruithogalum      narbonense     pyramidale, 

603 
Ostrowskia  magnitlca,  375 
Ourisia  macrophylla,  435 
Oxalis  enneaphylla,  339 


Pseonia  Leonora,  350  ;  Veitchii,  539 

Palm,  the  Umbrella,  280 

Pansies,  raising  from  seed,  316 

Pea  Senator.  421 ;  Sutton's  Early  Giant, 

336 
Peak-land  garden,  views  in,  566 
Pear  Doyenne  du  Cornice,  triple  cordon  of, 

481 ;  Dr.  Jules  Guyot,  565  ;  Louise  Bonne 

of  Jersey,  505 
Pelargoniums,  propagation  of,  102  ;  show, 

regal  and  fancy,  376 
Pentstenion  MyddeltonGem,  553 
Pergola    at     Moutgreenan    House,    483 ; 

covered  with  Wistaria,  19 
Peristrophe  speciosa,  42 
Phloxes,   Irises   and    Spirseas  in    Messrs. 

Wallace  and  Co. 's  nursery,  279 
Phormium  tenax  in  New  Zealand,  123 
Pinks,  increasing,  352 
Plants  for  room  decoration,  618 ;  staking, 

310 
Plectranthus  crassus,  629 
Plum  Cox's    Emperor,    102 ;    Denniston's 

Superb,  15 
Potatoes  affected  by  black  scab,  516 
Primroses,  dividing,  2.37 
Primula  Forrestii,  242  ;  littoniana,  361 
Privet,  increasing  the,  32 
Pyrus  floribunda  at  Wisley,  201 


Raisers  of  British  Roses,  portraits  of  (sup- 
plement), 404 

Ramondia  pyrenaica,  374 

Rhododendron  Gill's  Triumph,  615  ; 
Hodgsonii,  5SS  ;  indicum,  a  fine,  202  ; 
Fink  Pearl  in  a  Boscombe  garden,  372 ; 
Souliei,  278;  White  Lady,  18 

Rhubarb,  forcing:,  568 

Rockfoils,  Crusted,  at  Kew.  66 

Rock  garden,  a  corner  of,  in  Lincoln,  17  ; 
a  simple  and  beautiful,  327  ;  portion  of, 
at  Chaddlewood,  409;  stone  steps  in  a, 
363 

Rodgersia  pinnata,  531 

Kosa  lirunonii  in  Surrey,  493  ;  wichuraiana 
alba,  164 

Rose,  Banksian,  at  Hemsted  Park,  335 ; 
Blush  Rambler,  153 ;  covering  an  arch, 
469 ;  Bouquet  d'Or  at  Bayman  Manor, 
337  ;  Claudius,  542  ;  Coquina,  290  ; 
Dorothy  Perkins  in  America,  494 ;  in  a 
North  London  garden,  443  ;  over  rustic 
bridge,  405 ;  Eynsford  Beauty,  253  ; 
Fortune's  Yellow  at  Castie  Menzies,  371 ; 
Jessie,  5.'">1  ;  Juliet,  386 ;  Lady  Gay  in  a 
North  London  Garden,  570 ;  Lyon,  277, 
45S  ;  Maiden's  Blush,  5  ;  Mard-chal  Niel, 
213;  Marquise  de  Sinety,  114;  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert,  177 ;  Mrs.  Myles 
Kennedy,  67 ;  M.  Paul  Lede,  470  ;  per- 
gola, an  amateur's,  591 ;  Rhea  Reid, 
191 ;  I'na,  heps  of,  126 ;  Viscountess 
Folkestone  at  Bayman  Manor,  338 ; 
W.  C.  Egan  in  America,  515 ;  White 
Killarney,  229 ;  with  seed-pods,  491 ; 
William  Allen  Richardson,  203,  387 

Rosemary,  increasing  the,  292 

Roses,  a  hedge  of,  in  Merryweather's 
nursery,  101 ;  climbing,  in  Mr.  C. 
Turner's  nursery,  262 ;  Crimson  Rambler, 
over  arches,  401  ;  how  to  plant,  545  ; 
in  a  North  London  garden,  407  ;  methods 
of  pruning  dwarf,  144;  propagating  by 
cuttings,  424 

Rubus  deliciosus  in  flower,  64 


S. 

Sage  and  its  culture,  268 

Salvia    argentea    at  St.  Martin's  House, 

Canterbury,  517 
Savoy  Gilbert's  Universal,  348 
Saxifraga  apiculata  alba,  201 ;  GUbranii, 

2f4 ;     decipiens    Miss    Willmott,    289 ; 

lingulata     lantoscana     at     Kew,     55 ; 

Stribnryi,  212 
Scilla  Lilie-Hy&cintbus  albus,  265 


Seakale,  propagating,  by  root  cuttings,  8 

Shortia  galacifolia,  189  " 

Snowdrop,  the  Cicilian,  S8 

Snowdrops  at  Castle  Menzies,  111  ;  border 

of,  G ;    Ivy   and    Moss    used    for   table 

decoration,  39 
Sophora  japonicaat  Kew,  43 
Spiraea  arguta,  578 
Stephanotis  floribunda  in    South  Africa, 

211 
Strawberries,  hint  on  planting,  461 
Summer-house  and  pergola  in  Kev.  H.  E. 

Hodson's  garden,  3S4  ;  designed  by  Mr. 

J.  P.  White,  295 
Sweet  Pea  Queen  of  Spain,  75  ;  Society, 

members    of,  at    Messrs.    Hurst's    trial 

grounds,  76  ;  on  Mr.  Sherwood's  lawn,  77 : 

White  Waved,  113 
Sweet  Peas  at  Stourbridge,  106  ;  Cupid, 

growing  in  an  old  barrel.  78;  eighteen 

bunches    at  The    Garden  Show,  386 ; 

gathering  for  exhibition,  79 ;   planting, 

230  ;  staking,  244 
Sydenham,  Mr.  Robert,  portrait  of,  224 
Syringe  The  Demon,  147 


Terrace,    paved,  and  steps  planted  with 

alpines,  .'>5.'. 
Trillium  grandiflorum  at  Kew,  167 
Tulips,  a  border  of,  for  colour  tffect.  627 
a  new  race  of  branching,  554  ;  Darwin 
under  protection,  457 ;  white  Potte 
bakker,  in  grass,  30  ;  with  screen  of  wire 
netting,  456 


Vegetables,  first  prize  collection  at  The 

Garden  Show,  :i86,  302 
Veitch,  Mr.  Harry  J.,  portrait  of.  288 
Verbascum  puiverulentum,  422 
Verbena  ilaonettii,  31 
Veronicas,  increasing  the  shrubby,  532 
Viburnum  plicatum,  7 
Vine,  a  pot,  ready  for  table,  482 
Vines,  how  to  prune.  56 
Viola  cornuta,  385  ;  the  Butterfly,  311 
Violets,  a  cluster  of  wild,  324 


W^. 


Wallflowers  and  Forget-me-Nots,  a  borde 

of,  at  Kew,  631 


Y. 

Yucca  treculiana  canaliculata  at  Kew,  254 


COLOURED    PL.ATBS. 


Antirrhinums,  6 
Asters,  China,  154 
Begonia  Clibran's  Pink,  254 
Carnation  Queen  of  Spain,  228 
Carnations,  new  Perpetual-flowering,  201 
Chrysanthemums,  one  of  the  decorative, 

350 
Chrysanthemums,  Sutton's  Seedlings,  126 
Chrysanthemums,  two  new  single,  616 
Cinerarias,  Cactus-flowered,  325 
Clematises,  two  of  the  newer,  302 
Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca,  30 
Freesias,  some  of  the  newer,  500 
Michaelmas    Daisy    Beauty   of    Colwall 

468 
Narcissi,  some  good  new,  423 
Narcissi,  some  of  the  newer,  399 
Nemesia  hybrida  Blue  Gem,  100 
Pansies,  Matchless,  519 
Primula  Mrs.  J.  H.  Wilson,  566 
Pyrethrum  Langport  Scarlet,  177 
Rose  American  EiUar,  642 
Rose  Marquise  de  Sinety,  494 
Rose  Tausendschdn,  50 
Strawberries  Laxton's  Cropper,  The  Bed 

ford,  Laxton's  Epicure,  275 
Sweet    Peas  Frank  Dolby,    Nora    Unwin 

and  King  Edward  VII.,  78 
Sweet  Pea  Mrs.  A.  Ireland,  375 
Tulips,  four  good  Darwin,  446 


GARDEN. 


—^^~ 


No.  1937. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


January  %  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


Snowdrops    and    How 

TO  Grow  Them  . .  . . 
A  flower  show  for  our 

Readers 

Prizes  for  Headers . .  . . 
NoTBS  OP  THE  Week 

British  Gardeners' 
Association      . .     . . 

Sweet  Pea  trials  for 
1909 

Our  Calendar  for  1909 
CORRESPONDENOB 

Yuccas  flowering  in 
December 

The    spring    bedding 


Jn  Orchid  land 
Sweet  Pea  chat      ..     .. 
Kitchen  Garden 
How  to  grow  French 
Beans  and  Potatoes 
in  pots  in  a  green- 
house     

Rose  Garden 
Roses    and     Kose 

growing     

The    Maiden's    Blush 

Rose 

Coloured  Plate 
Snapdragons  and  their 
culture      


Trees  and  Shrubs 
Three     good     Vibur- 
nums        6 

Yew  hedges 6 

Gbeenhouse 
Greenhouse    climbers 

(Lapagerias)     . .     . .      7 
A  free-flowering  plant 

for  the  greenhouse        7 

Fruit  Garden 
Longevity     of    Apple 
trees 7 

Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 8 

Propagating     Seakale 

by  root  cuttings     . .      8 

The  Town  Garden    ..  9 
Gajidening  of  the  Week 
For    the  South   and 

South  Midlands     . .  10 
For  the    North   and 

North  Midlands    ..  10 

Editor's  Table 10 

New  plants      10 

Answers    to    Corre- 
spondents 

Flower  garden    . .     . .  11 

Rose  garden       . .     . .  12 

Greenhouse 12 


SNOWDROPS   AND  HOW  TO 
GROW   THEM. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A  group  in  Messrs.  Cypher's  Cypripedium  house  , .  3 

Rose  Maiden's  Blush       5 

Snapdragons  and  their  culture    . .       .     . .    Coloured  plate 

A  border  of  Snowdrops  in  a  Cornish  garden 6 

A  free-flowering  mass  of  Viburnum  plicatum       , ,     . .       7 
Propagating  Seakale  by  root  cuttings      8,  9 


BDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  horttctdture  is  represented  in  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
rtUUing  to  -matters  upon  which  they  loish  advice  from 
competeiit  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicumts 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
ufiU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o/  their  assistance. 
AU  communications  must  be  loritten  clearly  on  one  side 
only  0/  t?ie  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles^  and  notes, 
but  he  loiU  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  toill  be  taken,  and  where  sta/mps 
aire  enclosed,  he  toiU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
GoiUri^nUions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  oioner  of  the  copyright  toiU  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  iu>t  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
OTid  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  ctccepted.  Publication  in  THE  Garden 
vnU  alone  be  recognised  as  a,cc^tance. 


G 


Offlees:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covmt  Garden,  W.C. 


all  the  early  spring-flowering  bulbs 
the  charming  Snowdrop  easily 
comes  out  a  first  favourite.  It  is 
one  of  the  easiest  of  plants  to 
grow,  and  succeeds  in  almost  any 
soil,  but  never  looks  better  than  when  naturalised 
in  thin-growing  grassland,  under  the  shade  of 
trees,  or  in  large  groups  on  the  margins  of  wood- 
land walks,  aa  shown  in  the  illustration  on 
page  6.  Planted  in  quantity  in  thin  deciduous 
shrubberies,  where  the  plants  are  not  crowded 
together,  they  make  an  effective  display  in  early 
spring  before  the  leaves  are  out  on  the  shrubs, 
and  during  summer  the  bulbs  obtain  that 
thorough  ripening  oflf  that  is  one  of  their 
essential  requirements.  Unfortunately,  some 
of  the  larger-flowering  types,  like  the  forms  of 
G.  KIwesii,  are  unsatisfactory  in  many  gardens 
and  have  a  tendency  to  die  out  in  course  of  time. 
They,  however,  produce  seeds  in  quantity, 
which,  under  suitable  conditions,  germinate 
freely.  Although  smaller  than  most,  our  native 
Snowdrop  (Galanthus  nivalis)  is  one  of  the  most 
charming  and  desirable,  as  it  increases  quickly 
and  in  time  forms  large  tufts. 

Although  all  the  Snowdrops  are  usually  asso- 
ciated with  the  spring,  and  though  most  of  them 
flower  at  that  time,  there  are  some  exceptions, 
as  in  the  case  of  G.  Olgae,  from  Greece,  and  G. 
nivalis  var.  octobrensis,  which  is  said  to  have 
come  from  Albania.  The  former  species 
flowers  in  October  and  the  other  usually 
in  November,  thus  forming  a  link,  through 
the  December  -  flowering  G.  oilioicus,  with 
those  that  bloom  in  spring.  All  these  three 
are  closely  allied  to  our  native  G.  nivalis,  and 
only  to  be  distinguished  by  their  time  of  flowering. 
These  autumn-flowering  types  are  not  very  robust 
and  fail  to  increase  readily,  so  that  they  do  not 
promise  to  become  plentiful,  although  a  good 
supply  of  G.  Olgae  reached  this  country  during 
the  past  summer. 

GalaMliris  Allenii  is  a  very  beautiful  Snowdrop 
and  one  of  the  rarest  species.  Midway  between 
G.  latifolius  and  G.  caucasicus,  with  a  leaning 
towards  the  former,  it  has  broad,  arching, 
slightly  glaucescent  leaves  and  large  flowers. 
This  plant  succeeds  best  on  a  warm,  sunny  border, 
where  the  bulbs  get  thoroughly  ripened  during 
summer.  Like  most  Snowdrops,  this  species 
succeeds  best  when  allowed  to  remain  undis- 
turbed. 

G.  byzantinus  is  a  strong-grovring  species  with 
large  bulbs.  The  leaves  resemble  those  of  the 
Crimean  Snowdrop  (G.  plicatus),  but  the  flowers 
differ  in  their  markings.      The  former  has  the 


markings  of  G.  Elwesii,  with  green  inner 
segments,  while  G.  plicatus  has  the  green  apex 
only,  as  seen  in  our  native  Snowdrop.  G. 
byzantinus  flowers  early,  often  in  January. 

G.  caucasictis  may  be  called  a  robust  G.  nivalis, 
which  it  resembles  both  in  flowers  and  foliage. 
It  is,  however,  rather  later  in  coming  into  flower. 

G.  cilicictis,  from  Asia  Minor,  is  a  vrinter- 
flowering  Snowdrop  much  resembling  in  form 
and  habit  our  native  species.  Although  said  to 
be  a  handsome  plant  in  its  native  habitat,  it  has 
not  proved  very  successful  here,  flowering  very 
irregularly  and  gradually  dying  out.  It  is  one 
of  those  species  that  requires  plenty  of  moisture 
when  growing,  but  well  ripening  off  after  flower- 
ing. 

G.  Elwesii  is  a  most  variable  species,  and 
contains  some  of  the  finest  forms  in  the  whole 
genus.  It  grows  best  in  bare,  somewhat  light 
soils,  a  position  like  that  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration on  page  6  suiting  it  admirably.  Here 
it  will  increase  rapidly  by  means  of  self-sown 
seedlings.  Some  of  the  more  distinct  forms  have 
been  separated  and  named,  among  the  best  being 

O.  E.  Cassaba,  a  plant  of  great  beauty,  often 
attaining  the  height  of  1  foot  or  more,  with  broad, 
slightly  glaucous  leaves  and  large  flowers.  This 
form  likes  rather  stiffer  soil  than  most  of  the 
others,  but  also  the  same  thorough  ripening. 

G.  E.  Whittallii,  called  after  its  discoverer, 
who  has  done  so  much  in  introducing  these  and 
other  bulbs  from  Asia  Minor,  is  an  early-flowering 
giant  form  of  the  type,  with  broad,  glaucous 
leaves  and  large,  globular  flowers.  The  season  of 
flowering  of  the  different  forms  extends  from 
February  till  April. 

G.  Fosteri  is  a  distinct  species  from  Asia  Minor, 
with  broad,  dark  green  leaves  and  fair-sized 
flowers  in  March. 

G.  Ikaria;  is  also  one  of  Mr.  Whittall's  intro- 
ductions from  the  Island  of  Nikaria,  off  the  west 
coast  of  Asia  Minor.  It  is  a  very  ornamental 
species  with  broad,  bright  green,  glossy  arching 
leaves,  which  develop  quickly  after  the  flower 
has  pushed  up.  While  having  the  leaves  of 
G.  Fosteri,  it  has  the  flowers  of  G.  nivalis.  They 
are  large  and  pure  white,  the  segments  being 
over  an  inch  long.  They  succeed  best  on  a  dry 
bank,  especially  where  they  are  covered  in  summer 
with  the  leaves  of  some  large  plant  like  a  Bheum 
or  Rhubarb. 

G.  latifolius  has  robust  leaves  over  an  inch 
wide,  but  rather  smaller  flowers  in  comparison, 
which  usually  open  in  March. 

G.  nivalis,  our  native  Snowdrop,  is  one  of  the 
best  for  naturalising  in  grass  and  so  well  known 
that  it  needs  no  description.  There  are  numerous 
forms  of  this  that  are  grown  under  separate 
names,  some  so  closely  allied  that  they  may  only 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  2,  1909. 


be  distinguished  by  the  specialist.  One  of  the 
most  distinct  is  the  variety 

O.  11.  Imperatii,  a  strong-growing  form  with 
erect  leaves  and  large  flowers,  the  segments  being 
over  an  inch  long.  There  is  also  the  well-known 
double  form,  which  is  well  worth  growing. 
The  variety  octobrensis  flowers  in  October  or 
November. 

G.  Olfjif  is  an  autumn-flowering  species  hardly 
distinguishable  except  in  the  time  of  flowering 
from  Or.  nivalis. 

O.  plicattis  (Crimean  Snowdrop)  is  a  vigorous 
plant  with  broad,  plicate  leaves  and  very  large 
flowers  when  well  established.  The  bulbs  are 
very  large,  and  somewhat  stronger  soil  than 
usual  is  necessary  for  it  to  be  successfully  grown. 

Cultivation. — There  is  little  to  be  said  in  refer- 
ence to  the  cultivation  of  Snowdrops.  Taken  as 
a  whole,  they  like  a  light,  well-drained  soil  that 
gets  somewhat  dry  during  the  summer.  In  turf 
under  trees  where  the  grass  does  not  grow  too 
strong  is  the  best  position  for  such  as  G.  nivalis 
and  some  of  the  forms  of  Elwesii,  although  the 
latter  does  equally  well,  if  not  better,  in  borders 
between  deciduous  shrubs.  For  cultivation  in 
pans  the  bulbs  should  be  potted  up  in  the  early 
autumn,  and  the  pans  plunged  over  their  rims 
in  ashes  in  a  cool  place  till  they  begin  to  push  up 
their  flowers,  when  they  may  be  moved  into  the 
cold  house  or  into  a  cold  frame  to  develop  for 
indoor  decoration.  Any  loamy  soil  is  suitable, 
while  the  best  sorts  for  this  purpose  are  the 
different  forms  of  G.  Elwesii,  G.  Ikarise,  G. 
plicatus  and  G.  nivalis.  W.  Irving. 


A     FLOWER     SHOW     FOR 
OUR     READERS. 

We  specially  draw  the  attention  of  our  readers 
to  the  schedule  of  prizes  which  appears  among 
our  advertisement  pages  of  this  issue.  As  many 
will  remember,  we  held  a  most  successful  show 
last  summer,  and  we  hope  this  year  the  exhibi- 
tion will  be  even  better.  The  Proprietors  of 
The  Garden  are  again  o9ering£lfl0  in  prizes  and 
gold  and  silver  medals,  and  we  hope  that  readers 
will  do  their  best  to  make  the  show  a  great 
success.  We  know  perfectly  well  that  among 
our  readers  are  some  ef  the  best  growers  of 
flowers,  fruits  and  vegetables  in  the  United 
Kingdom,  and  we  feel  sure  that  they  will  exhibit 
on  July  28  next.  The  schedule  has  been 
thoroughly  revised  so  as  to  render  it  as  con- 
venient for  exhibitors  as  possible,  and  those  who 
cannot  bring  and  stage  their  exhibits  will  be 
allowed  to  send  them.  As  on  the  previous 
occasion,  the  greatest  care  will  be  taken  to 
ensure  that  they  will  not  suffer  through  the 
absence  of  the  exhibitor. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 
JANUARY. 


THE   BEST  METHODS  OF 
SWEET    PEAS     FOR 
DECORATION. 


GROWING 
GARDEN 


A  First  PrUe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A   Second  Ptize  of  TWO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Ptize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  Ptize  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on    the   above 
subject. 
Attention  should  be  given  to  suitable  varieties 
and  also  to  their  combination  with  other  plants, 
and  originality  is  strongly  desired. 


The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  The  Gabdbn,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Saturday,  January  30.  Both  amateur  and 
professional  gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Gabdbn  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSS.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
decision  is  final. 


NOTES   OF   THE  WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*»•  The  dates  given  helow  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

January  12. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Meeting  and  Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Fruits  and 
Vegetables,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster, 
S.  W. ,  1  p.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

January  23. — French  Gardening  Society  of 
London  Annual  Dinner  at  the  Caf6  Royal, 
Regent  Street. 

May  6. — Royal  Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund, 
Annual  Dinner,  the  Duke  of  Rutland  presiding. 


Oup  Calendar  for  1909.— With  this, 
the  first  number  of  the  year,  we  are  as  usual 
presenting  a  calendar  containing  horticultural 
fixtures  for  the  year.  The  dates  have  been 
supplied  by  the  respective  secretaries  of  the 
various  societies,  to  whom  we  tender  our  best 
thanks. 

British  Gardeners'  Association. 

The  next  meeting  of  the  London  branch  takes 
place  at  Carr's  Restaurant,  Strand,  at  7. 30  p.  m. , 
on  Saturday,  January  9,  when  Mr.  Cyril 
Harding  of  Cardiff  City  Parks  will  deliver  an 
address  on  "  Garden  Cities  :  What  they  are  and 
what  they  might  be. "  Discussion  will  be  opened 
by  Mr.  A.  E.  Cresswelt,  head. gardener  to  the 
Right  Hon.  the  Earl  of  Lytton,  and  Mr.  W.  H. 
Morland  of  the  Royal  Parks,  London.  All 
professional  gardeners  may  attend. 

Sweet    Pea  trials  for    1909.— The 

committee  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society 
will  continue  its  series  of  trials  at  the  gardens 
of  the  University  College,  Reading,  this  year,  and 
will  test  novelties  and  grant  awards  and  certifi- 
cates according  to  merit.  No  awards  or  certifi- 
cates will  be  granted  to  Sweet  Peas  unless  they 
are  sent  for  trial  at  Reading.  For  these  trials 
the  varieties  will  be  accepted  only  from  the 
raiser  or  introducer  ;  a  charge  of  23.  6d.  for  each 
variety  will  be  made.  At  the  request  of  numerous 
seedsmen  the  committee  will  conduct  a  further 
and  distinct  trial  solely  for  the  purpose  of  testing 
correctness  and  purity  of  stocks  of  Sweet  Peas. 
A  charge  of  5s.  per  variety  or  stock  sent  for  trial 
will  be  made.  A  special  and  detailed  report  of 
any  variety  will  be  supplied  to  the  sender  of 
such  variety  at  a  charge  of  2s.  6d.  Sweet  Peas 
for  these  trials  should  be  sent  to  Mr.  C.  Foster, 
University  College  Gardens,  Reading,  not  later 
than  January  25.  For  the  novelty  trials  not 
less  than  fifteen  seeds  should  be  sent,  and 
for  the  purity  trials  not  less  than  two  dozen 
seeds  of  each  variety  or  stock.  At  the  same 
time  a  list  of  the  varieties,  together  with  the 
amount  due  for  trial  charges,  should  be  sent  to 
the  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis,  Adelaide 
Road,  Brentford,  Middlesex.  The  proceedings 
of  the  floral  committee  will  be  printed  in  the 
autumn,  and  a  copy  will  be  sent  to  every 
person  or  firm  sending  seeds  to  either  or  both  of 
the  sets  of  trials. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  mt  responsible  for  the   opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


Roses  on  sandy  soil.— Certainly  it  is 
assumed  that  a  strong  soil  is  most  suitable  for 
Roses,  hence  the  plea  of  "J.  C."  for  regarding 
light  soils  as  being  also  capable  of  growing  good 
Roses.  Anyone  who  has  seen  the  dwarf  and 
climbing  Roses  in  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Gardens,  Wisley,  must  admit  that  there,  on 
almost  pure  sand,  they  have  done  splendidly. 
If  a  few  of  the  less  robust  Teas  have  not  made 
good  growth,  they  represent  varieties  that 
would  not  thrive  well  in  all  cases.  But  Hybrid 
Teas  do  very  well  there,  and  although  at 
first  there  was  doubt  as  to  whether  the  Roses 
would  come  strong  the  second  year,  there  is  no 
reason  to  assume  anything  of  the  sort  now ; 
indeed,  they  look  as  if  they  would,  with  ample 
surface  feeding,  such  as  Roses  must  have  every- 
where, go  on  growing  well  indefinitely.  Too 
much  is  heard  of  Roses  for  exhibition,  as  though 
that  was  the  sole  aim  and  object  of  growing 
them,  but  numerous  persons  grow  them  for 
their  garden  beauty,  and  have  to  do  so  as  best 
they  can  on  all  sorts  of  soil. — A. 

Calceolarias.— The  admirable  coloured 
plate  presented  in  a  recent  issue  of  the  dwarf  new 
Golden  Glory  serves  to  emphasise  the  fact  that  of 
modern  varieties  of  the  "  reticule-bag  "  flowers 
the  two  newest  are  respectively  of  the  dwarfest 
and  the  tallest  habited.  Golden  Glory — it  is 
so  obvious  to  all  who  have  seen  it — has  the  habit 
of  the  greenhouse  or  presumably  tender  section 
of  Calceolarias  exactly.  That  with  its  large 
flowers,  slender  stems  and  broad  leafage,  it  should 
yet  prove  so  hardy  is  remarkable  and  shows  that 
it  has  in  it  a  strong  strain  of  its  hardier  parent. 
The  tall  variety  is  Calceolaria  Burbidgei,  which 
seems,  as  pillar  plants,  to  flower  with  profuse- 
ness  and  continuity  beyond  all  others  of  the  true 
shrubby  type.  The  old  C.  araplexicaule  will  also 
grow  into  fine  pillar  plants,  but  does  not  seem  to 
have  that  freedom  of  flower  which  marks  the 
newer  hybrid.  —  D. 

Precocious    Leucojum   sestlvum. 

I  am  glad  to  observe  that  Mr.  S.  W.  Fitz- 
herbert  again  returns  to  the  subject  of  the 
peculiarities  which  exist  in  certain  varieties  of 
Leucojum  iestivum.  This  precocious  one  is 
rather  mysterious  in  its  ways,  as  the  bulbs 
kindly  sent  me  by  Mr.  Fitzherbert  in  return  for 
some  of  mine  have  never  flowered  in  winter  with 
me,  and  show  no  signs  of  blooming  in  my  present 
garden  at  this  season.  This  is  the  same  result 
as  in  my  former  garden  at  Carsethorn.  This 
variety  produces  its  leaves  much  earlier  than  any 
others  I  have.  I  trust  the  Kew  authorities  will 
help  us  to  identify  these  plants,  as  Leucojum 
sestivum  or  "Summer  Snowflake"  is  an  absurd 
name  to  apply  to  a  plant  flowering,  even  in 
South  Devon,  in  midwinter. — S.  Arnott,  Sunny - 
mead,  Dumjries. 

Plants  in  flower  at  Fota  Island. 

Lord  Barrymore  writes  on  Christmas  Eve  from 
Fota  Island,  Queenstown,  Ireland:  "As  an. 
instance  of  the  mildness  of  the  weather  it  may 
interest  your  readers  to  know  that  we  have  in 
flower,  all  planted  in  the  open  air,  Roses  of  sorts. 
Fuchsias  of  sorts,  Laurustinus,  Escallonias  (three 
or  four  kinds),  Pittosporum  Tobira,  Salvia, 
Grahamii,  Solanum  jasminoides,  Hakea  pugioni- 
formis,  Grevillea  rosmarinifolia,  G.  sulphurea, 
Choisya  ternata.  Camellia,  Cassia  corymbosa, 
Braohynema  lanceolata,  Manettia  bicolor, 
Lavateras,  Brugmansia  sanguinea,  Clianthus 
punioeus.  Yucca  gloriosa,  Erica  arborea,  Ceanothus 
Gloire  de  Versailles,  Cytisus,  Jasminum  primu- 
lum,  Teucrium  frutieans  and  Veronicas  of  sorts, 
a  somewhat  remarkable  collection  for  Christmaa 

Yuccas  flowering:  in  December.— 

It  may  interest  your  readers  to  know  that  there 
are,  within  half  a  mile  of  my  home,  three 
Yuccas    showing    bloom    at    the    present    time 


January  2, 1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


(December  17th).  Two  are  in  one  garden,  and 
one  of  these  has  a  flower-spike  over  1  foot  long. 
I  suppose  this  may  be  considered  exceptional  for 
this  plant,  and  also  may  be  attributed  to  the 
extraordinary  absence  of  cold  weather  1 — R.  J.  T. , 
Worcester. 

The    spping    bedding    essays.— I 

have  read  with  interest  "A.  W.'s"  note 
(page  lU8)  in  criticism  of  the  spring  bedding 
essays.  The  iirst  fault  he  finds  is  the  mosaic 
patterns.  Surely  there  is  not  much  pattern 
about  two  subjects.  He  also  criticises  blue 
Myosotis  and  yellow  Tulips.  Are  we  not  taught 
in  "  The  English  Flower  Garden  "  that  blue  and 
yellow  associate  well?  Also  in  the  same  place 
that  dwarf  perennials  and  bulbs  together  are  to 
be  commended  ?  the  idea  being  always  to  have 
the  ground  clothed.  And  even  if  there  is  a 
certain  formality  in  the  beds,  would  "A.  W." 
have  the  mixed  border  and  the  wild  garden  in 
connexion  with  great  formal  houses,  terraces  and 
sunken  flower  gardens '?  I  can  assure  him  the 
efifeot  would  not  be  pleasing.  Another  point, 
"A.  W."  complains  because  no  shrubs  are 
mentioned.  I  suppose  Ericas ,  and  Hamamelis 
are  merely  bags  of  colour  from  Holland.  Even 
if  Tulips,  Narcissi,  garden  Anemones,  Pansies 
and  Hyacinths  (the  last  two  I  have  never 
mentioned  in  any  bed)  were  omitted,  I  think 
there  is  plenty  of  material  left  in  the  article 
(pages  541  and  54'2).  Among  others  there  were 
Aconites,  Iris,  Chionodoxa,  Leucojum,  Hepaticas, 
various  Saxifrages,  Phlox,  Iberis,  Doronicum, 
Scillas,  various  Caloohorti,  &c.  If  "A.  W." 
will  look  again,  he  will  see  (page  541)  "  A 
Few  Suggestions " ;  the  list  was  not  meant 
to  be  a  catalogue.  I  am  qiiite  in  touch  with  the 
wealth  of  material  available  at  that  time  in 
bulbs,  herbaceous  plants  and  flowering  shrubs. 
Another  point  raised  is  the  expense.  Aconites 
'2j.  a  hundred,  Spanish  Iris  43.  a  thousand  ; 
rather  dear  !  Again,  "  A.  W."  says  it  is  a  matter 
of  taste.  If  so,  surely  each  person  is  entitled  to 
his  own,  and  there  is  no  need  to  force  his  down 
other  people's  throat.  —  William  P.  Wood 
(Winner  of  the  Second  Prize  Essay),  The 
Gardens,  Oalclands  Court,  St.  Peter's,  Kent. 

After  the  perusal  of  the  note  by  "A.  W. " 

on  page  618,  in  which  he  criticises  the  excellent 
essays  on  the  above  subject  which  have  recently 
appeared  in  The  Garden,  I  for  one  shall  be 
deeply  interested  if  he  will  give  readers  (as  the 
Editor  has  invited)  some  details  of  the  method 
of  affording  an  attractive  display  without  the 
use  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  &o.  All  gardeners  are 
well  aware  of  the  abundance  of  material  available 
for  spring  bedding ;  but  how  many  would  be 
satisfied,  or  would  give  satisfaction,  by  omitting 
bulbs  entirely  when  preparing  for  a  spring  display  ? 
Cases  are  rare  indeed  where  a  few  at  least  may 
not  be  used  with  advantage  in  gardens  large  and 
small,  and  surely  the  range  of  bulbous  plants  ip 
large  enough  to  suit  all  tastes.  "A.  W." 
mentions  Forsythias,  Flowering  Currants, 
Cydonias,  Daphnes,  &c.,  as  being  charming  for 
beds.  These  are  all  well  worthy  of  attention,  and 
in  some  cases  may  be,  and  are,  used  with  good 
effect ;  but  again,  these  shrubs  would  be  entirely 
out  of  place  if  used  for  spring  bedding  in  many 
gardens,  owing  to  several  reasons,  chiefly,  perhaps, 
the  wealth  of  this  material  which  is  employed  in 
furnishing  the  less  formal  part  of  the  grounds. 
A  bed  of  these  flowering  shrubs  is  a  beautiful 
feature  in  the  pleasure  grounds,  and  the  earliest 
shrubs  to  flower  are  generally  the  most  admired  ; 
but  where  these  are  largely  planted  in  the  shrub- 
beries, or  as  isolated  specimens  on  the  lawns,  it 
would  be  hardly  wise  to  plant  them  for  furnishing 
the  more  formal  beds  or  borders.  ' '  A.  W. " 
mentions  the  expense  of  the  schemes  mentioned 
by  the  essayists ;  but  it  is  a  moot  point  whether 
the  furnishing  of  beds  with  good  flowering  shrubs 
would  not  be  quite  as  expensive,  unless,  of  course, 
they  are  intended  to  remain  for  several  seasons. 
This  is  not  permissible  in  many  cases,  as  the  beds 
are  required  for  other  things  during  the  summer. 
It  is  the  same  with  shrubs,  so  with  many  of  the 


early-flowering  herbaceous  subjects.  These  are 
more  at  home  on  the  rock  garden,  or  in  the  more 
informal  parts  of  the  grounds,  than  they  would 
be  in  beds  of  geometrical  design  adjoining  the 
C.  Ruse. 


mansion. 


IN     ORCHID     LAND. 


f-"^*>Nf  ^" 


ago  that  the  display  of  enthusiasm  for  the  Orchid 
was  a  passing  fancy,  but  this  is  not  so.  More 
Orchids  have  been  exhibited  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  during  the  past  two  or 
three  years  than  we  ever  remember,  especially 
by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  whose  displays 
have  been  dreams  of  floral  beauty.  As  we  have 
already  mentioned,  a  volume  would  be  necessary 
to  describe  the  treasures  of  this  nursery.     There 

WE  spent  a  few  happy  hours :  are  houses  devoted  to  Cattleyas  and  all  the 
recently  in  one  of  the  greatest  |  principal  genera,  but  it  is  not  merely  a  home  for 
nursery  gardens  of  the  British  i  "  common  "  Orchids,  if  one  may  use  so  harsh  a 
Isles — Messrs.  James  C3rpher  !  word  for  so  beautiful  a  flower.  Messrs.  Cypher 
and  Sons  of  Cheltenham — a  I  have  thousands  of  seedling  Orchids  which  have 
home  of  Orchids  and  exotic  '  never  yet  bloomed,  and  many  treasures  have  yet 
flowers  in  general.  It  was  the  occasion  of  our!  to  be  revealed.  One  of  the  most  exquisite  groups  we 
first  visit  to  Cheltenham,  and  we  shall  ever  ,  have  seen  is  that  of  Epidendrumprismatocarpum, 
remember  wandering  in  the  sunlit  streets  and  I  one  plant  having  no  less  than  twenty  spikes, 
revelling  in  the 
scent  of  the  flowers 
from  this  favoured 
town  nestling 
beneath  the  hills. 
Cheltenham  is 
famous  not  only  for 
its  beauty,  but  for 
its  Orchids.  One 
seems  transplanted 
to  the  forests  of 
other  lands  when 
walking  through 
the  aisles  of  houses 
to  be  seen  in 
Messrs.  Cypher's 
nursery,  aisles  filled 
with  a  bewildering 
galaxy  of  Orchids, 
some  from  the 
plains,  some  from 
the  mountain  tops, 
and  all  naturally 
requiring  tempera- 
tures of  varying 
degrees.  There  are 
upwards  of  seventy 
spacious  houses  in 
this  nursery,  and 
the  plants  are  con- 
spicuous for  their 
remarkable  health ; 
they  seem  to  have 
the  same  vigour  as 
the  grass  itself. 
Twenty  of  these 
houses  are  devoted 
to  Orchids  alone. 

It  is  almost  im- 
possible to  indivi- 
dualise when  house 
after  house  is  filled 
with  species, 
hybrids  and  varie- 
ties  in  robust 
health.  The  collec- 
tion of  Cypripe- 
diums  is  one  of  the 
most  comprehen- 
sive   in     England, 

especially  the  varieties  of  C.  leeanum,  such 
as  burfordiense,  aureum,  aureum  giganteum 
and  magnificum.  The  exquisite  C.  fairie- 
anum  was  a  pure  delight.  This,  it  will  be 
remembered  by  the  ardent  Orchidist,  -was 
lost  to  cultivation  for  many  years  and  then 
rediscovered.  As  our  illustration  shows,  the 
flower  is  dainty  in  form,  and  though  the 
colouring  is  not  revealed,  this  is  dainty  too.  A 
halo  of  romance  seems  to  surround  this  Lady's 
Slipper,  which  has  given  rise  to  many  hybrids  as 
beautiful  as  the  parents  from  which  they  have 
emanated. 

Those  who  have  not  yet  grown  the  most 
fascinating  and  wonderful  flower  of  the  world  of 
flowers  may  be  reminded  that  the  plants,  except 
in  a  few  instances,  are  not  diflScult  to  grow,  and 
this  fact  has  brought  them  before  persons  with 
moderate  means.     It  was  thought  a  few  years 


A  GKOnP   IN  MESSRS.    CYPHER'S  CYPRIPEDIOM  HOUSE. 


Bat  it  is  not  only  Orchids  that  Messrs.  Cypher 
are  famous  for ;  they  are  perhaps  even  better 
known  for  the  wonderful  culture  of  hard- wooded 
plants,  and  scores,  we  may  almost  say,  of  prizes 
have  been  won  by  them  through  the  excellence 
of  their  exhibits.  To  realise  the  influence  this 
nursery  has  had,  and  still  has,  on  the  culture  of 
indoor  flowers  one  must  visit  Cheltenham. 
AUamanda  grandiflora  was  a  flood  of  flowers, 
and  in  a  house  of  trained  plants  of  Stephanotis 
grandiflora  one  revelled  in  perfume.  Then  there 
was  a  house  of  Clerodendron  fallax  and  those 
wonderful  specimen  plants  which  have  delighted 
visitors  to  the  shows.  Ixora  Duffi,  Rondeletia 
speoiosa,  Statioe  profusa  and  other  famous  speci- 
mens were  to  be  seen.  One  wishes  more  could  be 
written  of  this  interesting  nursery,  but  the  collec- 
tion is  so  vast  that  it  is  difficult  to  do  more  than 
give  our  readers  some  idea  of  its  contents. 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[January  2,  1909. 


SWEET     PEA     CHAT. 

AMANDATE.— The  orders  of  an  Editor 
must  be  obeyed.  I  am  commanded 
to  write  a  fortnightly  column  during 
the  current  year  for  the  benefit  of 
Sweet  Pea  lovers,  and  I  now  make 
ray  bow  to  a  generous,  and  probably 
keenly  critical,  public.  First  of  all,  let  me  wish 
every  reader  of  The  Garden  who  grows  Sweet 
Peas — Can  there  be  a  single  one  who  does  not  ? — 
success  in  the  coming  year,  whether  they  are 
growing  for  exhibition  or  for  their  own  exclusive 
satisfaction.  Then  I  am  going  to  claim  (and  not 
one  will  have  the  courage  to  dispute  the  assertion) 
that  the  Sweet  Pea  is  the  most  popular,  excepting 
the  Rose,  of  all  the  garden  flowers  at  the  present 
time,  and  I  venture  to  predict  that  it  will  remain 
so  for  the  next  generation.  It  can  be  as  grandly 
grown  in  the  small  as  in  the  large  garden,  and 
the  reward  of  good  culture  is  far  more  generous 
than  can  be  had  from  any  other  plants  at  a 
similar  outlay  in  seeds  or  plants. 

Ordering  Seeds-  —  The  mention  of  seeds 
reminds  me  of  the  urgent  necessity  of  advising 
growers  to  place  their  orders  early.  The  demand 
has  now  become  so  enormous  for  the  best  new 
and  old  varieties  that  it  is  almost  impossible  for 
it  to  be  met,  and  in  the  case  of  the  novelties  of 
the  beautiful  Spencer  section  I  have  no  hesitation 
in  affirming  that  many  of  the  leading  firms  will 
find  their  stocks  running  short  before  another 
month  has  gone.  The  rule  of  our  leading  seed 
houses  is  to  execute  orders  strictly  in  rotation 
according  to  receipt,  and  it  is,  therefore,  obvious 
that  the  first  comers  have  the  best  chances  of 
securing  what  they  desire.  Whether  it  is  a 
packet  of  mixed  or  a  packet  of  the  superb  Zephyr, 
I  say — Order  to-day.  Those  who  are  uncertain 
as  to  the  varieties  cannot  do  better  than  purchase 
a  collection,  for  these  are  reasonable  in  price  and 
the  seedsmen  take  care  to  include  the  finest 
varieties  and  the  best  possible  seeds.  One  can 
have  collections  of  one  dozen,  two  dozen  or  three 
dozen,  and  if  they  choose  the  latter  they  may 
be  practically  certain  that  they  have  all  the 
leading  standard  varieties  in  commerce. 

The  Question  of  Fixity.  —  The  amateur 
grower  often  thinks  when  he  finds  a  mixed  row 
or  clump  that  he  is  the  only  aggrieved  individual, 
but  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  seedsman  is  in 
even  a  worse  condition,  for  all  those  who  have  had 
an  untrue  stock  from  him  launch  forth  vigorous 
letters  and  sweep  up  the  floor  with  the  poor  man. 
This  is  hard,  for  no  efforts  are  spared  by  growers 
to  ensure  trueness,  but  it  really  seems  impossible 
to  get  it  with  some  softs.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  matters  are  improving  in  this  direction,  and 
probably  the  happy  day  will  arrive  when  we  can 
be  as  sure  of  the  waved  standard  forms  coming 
true  to  name  as  those  older  sorts  with  smooth  or 
hooded  standards.  At  present  it  does  not  appear 
that  guarantees  of  trueness  are  of  material  value, 
for  varieties  which  have  come  absolutely  true  for 
two  seasons  have  been  known  to  go  all  to  pieces 
in  the  third.  However,  firms  of  the  first  repute 
have  seen  the  danger,  and  are  wisely  holding  back 
their  novelties  until  they  feel  reasonably  safe  in 
distributing  them. 

Seed-sowing.  —  At  the  end  of  the  present 
month  seed-sowing  will  commence  in  real  earnest, 
and  preparations  will  be  commenced  for  competi- 
tion at  The  Garden  and  other  important  horti- 
cultural shows  throughout  the  country.  Of 
course,  many  plants  will  already  be  up,  but 
despite  the  undoubted  advantages  of  autumn 
sowing  the  amount  of  such  work  done  before 
Christmas  is  very  small  in  comparison  with  that 
which  is  done  afterwards.  The  best  place  for 
the  pots  is  in  a  cold  frame,  and  one  of  the  com- 
monest errors  is  coddling,  which  makes  the  plants 
weak  and  renders  their  transplantation  without 
a  check  an  exceedingly  difficult  matter.  Grow 
the  plants  hardily  from  the  first  and  they  will 
not  give  the  grower  a  moment's  worry  from  the 
start  to  the  finish.  I  favour  6-inoh  pots  with 
five  seeds  in  each  in  preference  to  small  pots 


each  containing  one  seed,  unless  the  grower  is 
prepared  to  go  to  the  additional  trouble  of  re- 
potting, as  the  small  pot  does  not  afford  sufficient 
depth  to  ensure  the  uninterrupted  progress  of 
the  roots.  Spenceb. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


T 


HOW  TO  GROW  FRENCH  BEANS 
AND  POTATOES  IN  POTS  IN  A 
GREENHOUSE. 

[In  answer  to  a  Correspondent.~\ 

^  HE  first  thing  to  do  is  to  secure  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  suitable  soil 
and  keep  it  in  a  moderately  dry 
condition  until  recjuired  for  sowing 
the  seed  in.  The  best  soil  to  use  is 
turfy  loam,  which  has  been  stacked 
for  some  time,  to  mellow  it  down  and  to  kill  the 
grass.  To  half  a  barrow-load  of  this  add  a  peek 
of  decayed  leaf-mould  and  the  same  of  rotten 
manure,  mixing  well  together.  The  best  size 
pot  to  use  is  one  7  inches  wide,  inside  measure. 
Before  placing  the  soil  in  the  pots,  place  three  or 
four  broken  pieces  of  potsherd,  concave  side 
downwards,  over  the  hole  at  the  bottom  to 
ensure  proper  drainage,  and  cover  these  over  to 
the  depth  of  1  inch  with  the  roughest  part  of  the 
soil,  pressing  it  down  hard. 

The  next  thing  to  do  is  to  sow  the  seeds  ;  nine 
Beans  in  a  pot  will  be  sufficient.  Lay  them  on  the 
surface  at  equal  distances  and  press  them  into 
the  soil  with  the  finger  3  inches  deep.  Now  place 
the  pots  in  the  greenhouse  on  a  shelf  as  near  the 
glass  as  possible,  so  that  the  plants,  as  soon  as 
they  are  up,  may  have  plenty  of  light  but  not 
too  much  air,  as  they  love  heat  to  grow  in. 
They  should  be  syringed  morning  and  afternoon 
in  order  to  keep  down  red  spider,  which  is  their 
greatest  enemy. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  have  reached  the  rim  of 
the  pot  in  height,  they  should  be  staked,  using 
the  top  twigs  of  Pea-sticks  about  18  inches  long 
tor  this  purpose.  At  first  water  must  be  sparingly 
given,  but  once  the  soil  is  filled  with  roots  they 
must  be  liberally  supplied,  using  liquid  manure 
water  twice  a  week  as  soon  as  a  good  lot  of  Beans 
are  secured.  The  best  time  to  sow  the  first  crop 
will  be  February  1.  If  a  continuous  supply 
afterwards  is  desired,  sow  a  few  every  fortnight. 
It  is  of  little  use  sowing  them  in  the  depth  of 
winter.  Sutton's  Plentiful  is  the  best  sort  to 
grow. 

To  grow  Potatoes  prepare  the  soil  and  pots  as 
for  French  Beans.  The  pots  should  be  9  inches 
wide  instead  of  7  inches.  Plant  three  whole, 
medium-sized  sets  4  inches  deep  in  the  soil. 
Place  the  pots  in  the  coolest  end  of  the  green- 
house and  keep  them  there  while  the  plants  are 
growing,  giving  them  plenty  of  air  and  light 
while  the  weather  is  favourable.  Potatoes  do 
not  like  too  much  heat  at  any  time.  As  soon 
as  the  haulm  has  reached  to  the  height  of 
6  inches  or  7  inches,  they  should  be  staked  in 
the  same  way  as  the  Beans. 

Keep  the  soil  on  the  dry  side  until  the  roots  of 
the  plants  have  well  permeated  it,  when  they 
will  require  more,  but  avoid  giving  too  much 
water  at  any  time,  as  the  Potato  succeeds  best  in 
a  soil  that  is  neither  too  wet  nor  too  dry.  The 
best  Potato  to  plant  is  Sutton's  Ringleader,  and 
the  best  time  to  plant  the  first  crop  is  the  middle 
of  January.  If  you  wish  to  have  successional 
crops  until  new  Potatoes  can  be  had  out  of  doors, 
plant  a  few  every  fortnight  until  the  end  of 
March.  Those  planted  in  January  should  be 
ready  for  lifting  at  the  end  of  March  or  early 
in  April.  It  will  be  necessary  in  growing  both 
the  above-mentioned  crops  to  give  them  constant 
attention,  especially  in  regard  to  watering,  venti- 
lation and  the  maintenance  of  a  proper  tempera- 
ture ;  but  beyond  this  they  cannot  be  regarded  as 
difficult  subjects  to  deal  with.     Owen  Thomas. 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 


ROSES    AND    ROSE   GROWING.* 

1HAVE  been  asked  to  review  this  book,  the 
latest  addition  to  the  small  library  that  is 
fast  growing  up  round  our  national  flower  ; 
and  it  is  an  easy  and  pleasant  task  to  do 
so,  as  I  find  the  authoress  does  her  best  to 
disarm  criticism  by  the  modesty  of  her 
aims,  setting  out  to  perform  no  ambitious  task,  so 
is  the  more  likely  to  achieve  her  object,  simply 
desiring  to  set  before  her  readers  a  "humble 
record  of  my  own  practical  experience,  its  failures 
and  its  successes,"  and  trusts  that  the  same  may  be 
' '  the  means  of  encouraging  others  in  the  cultiva- 
tion of  Roses." 

As  I  am  one  of  those  who  prefer  to  take  up  the 
standpoint  that  anything  which  will  tend  to  that 
desirable  end  is  worthy  of  praise,  and  that  he  or 
she  who  has  made  or  helped  to  make  two  Rose 
trees  grow  where  only  one  grew  before  has  done 
something  in  that  direction,  my  readers  will 
understand  the  point  of  view  with  which  I 
approach  this  book,  and  must  not,  therefore, 
expect  me  to  treat  it  in  any  other  spirit,  cer- 
tainly not  in  the  spirit  of  carping  criticism, 
which  seeks  only  to  find  fault,  and  loses  sight 
entirely  in  doing  so  of  the  aim  which  the  author 
has  in  view  in  writing  the  book. 

I  gather  that  the  book  is  written  primarily  for 
the  owners  of  small  gardens  who  tend  their 
flowers  themselves,  and  Miss  Kingsley,  there- 
fore, has  a  large  clientHe. 

Of  the  eleven  chapters  that  comprise  the  book, 
two  of  them  are  devoted  to  planting,  pruning  and 
propagating,  seven  to  descriptions  of  the  various 
classes  of  Roses,  one  to  Rose  pests  and  their 
remedies,  and  the  final  one  on  "  How  to  Grow 
Roses  for  Exhibition,'"  written,  not  by  the 
authoress,  but  contributed  by  the  Rev.  F.  Page- 
Roberts,  who,  since  the  book  was  published,  has 
been  chosen  president  of  the  National  Rose 
Society,  and  to  whom  Miss  Kingsley  duly 
acknowledges  her  indebtedness. 

Naturally  she  has  turned  to  the  Rev.  J.  H. 
Pemberton's  book,  "  Roses  :  Their  History, 
Development  and  Cultivation,"  published  early 
in  1908,  and  to  the  various  publications  of  the 
National  Rose  Society  ;  but  I  gather  that  her 
text-book  has  been  a  copy  of  that  old  book  pub- 
lished in  1844  and  written  by  the  late  Thomas 
Rivers,  one  of  the  earliest  of  the  Rose  manuals 
that  still  finds  an  honoured  place  on  the  book- 
shelves of  most  rosarians,  and  which  belonged 
to  her  father,  the  late  Canon  Charles  Kingsley. 
He,  too,  I  have  no  doubt,  loved  his  Roses,  though 
I  believe  I  am  right  in  saying  that  the  Passion 
Flower  was  his  favourite  flower. 

The  first  chapter,  on  ' '  Making  and  Planting  a 
Rose  Garden,"  calls  for  no  comment ;  the'direo- 
tions  are  simple  and  success  will  follow  if  they 
are  carried  out.  One  or  two  small  points  might 
be  mentioned.  Raffiatape  is  hardly  the  best 
material  for  tying  up  standard  or  pillar  Roses  ; 
strong  tarred  tWine,  the  other  material  mentioned, 
is  much  to  be  preferred,  and  3  inches  is  rather 
too  deep  to  bury  "  the  collar  or  point  at  which 
the  dwarf  Rose  is  budded  on  to  the  Briar. "  Miss 
Kingsley  states  that  she  prefers  that  depth,  as  the 
soil  always  sinks  a  little  in  newly-made  ground  ; 
but  surely  the  plant  sinks  with  the  soil  ?  and  the 
tendency  is  to  put  on  more  soil  and  hence  bury 
the  plant  still  deeper. 

The  second  chapter,  on  pruning,  deals  with  that 
operation  entirely  from  the  point  of  view  of  one 
who  grows  his  Roses  from  the  "garden"  point 
of  view.  The  authoress  is  rather  hard  on  the 
grower  for  exhibition,  as  she  insinuates  that  he 
does  not  grow  his  Roses  "for  mere  enjoyment." 
But  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  of  the  two  the 
exhibitor  gets  more  enjoyment  out  of  his  plants 

"  Roses  and  Rose  Growing."  By  Miss  Rose  G.  Kingsley, 
with  twenty-eight  full-page  coloured  illustrations,  &c. 
Published  by  Messrs.  Whittaker  and  Co.,  London  and  Newf 
York.    Price  6s.lnet. 


January  2,  1909.] 


THE    GAllDEN. 


5 


than  the  non-exhibitor.  We  are  told  that  "  hard- 
and-fast  rules "  in  pruning  are  two  :  1.  Prune 
weak-growing  Roses  much  harder  than  strong- 
growing  Roses.  2.  Always  prune  to  a  dormant 
bud  pointing  outwards.  Both  rules  are  excel- 
lent, but  they  hardly  cover  the  whole  ground. 
The  illustrations  of  certain  Roses  in  a  non -pruned 
and  a  pruned  state  leave  much  to  be  desired, 
especially  the  latter  if  the  plant  is  to  be  kept  in 
a  good  shape  ;  in  fact,  the  pruned  Rose  in  each 
case  has  only  had  a  few  shoots  tipped.  Roses  if 
grown  only  for  garden  decoration  are  much 
better  for  being  pruned,  and  it  is  seldom  advis- 
able to  have  five  shoots  like  the  fingers  and 
thumb  of  a  hand  at  the  end  of  a  long  shoot ; 
these  should  be  taken  off  and  the  shoot  pruned 
to  the  first  dormant  bud  pointing  outwards  below 
them.  One  misses  a  photograph  of  a  plant  that 
requires  hard  pruning,  and  one  is  rather  led  to 
suppose  that,  this  is  an  operation  unknown  in  Miss 
Kingsley's  garden,  especially  as  we  are  told  that 
in  pruning  "  let  the  amateur  remember  that  it  is 
far  safer  to  prune  too  lightly  than  to  prune  in 
excess."  Of  the  two  I  would  rather  say  it  is  far 
safer  to  prune  hard  than  to  prune  lightly.  The 
amateur  should  have  been  told,  too,  that  the 
first  season  after  planting  all  Roses  must  be  cut 
back  hard.  Propagation  by  means  of  budding, 
cuttings  and  layering  is  dealt  with  fully  ;  but 
grafting  is  omitted,  presumably  because  so  few 
owners  of  small  gardens  are  likely  to  have  the 
necessary  heat  for  the  purpose. 

Miss  Kingsley  passes  on  to  the  Rose  itself,  and 
devotes  a  chapter  to  each  of  the  following 
sections  :  III. ,  Summer-flowering  Roses  ;  IV. , 
Climbing  Roses  (summer-flowering)  ;  V.,  Climb- 
ing Roses  (autumn-flowering);  VI.,  Teas;  VII., 
Hybrid  Teas;  VIII.,  Hybrid  Perpetuals  ;  IX., 
Bourbon,  China  and  Polyantha  Roses. 

In  the  first  are  grouped  the  Cabbage  Roses, 
the  Mosses,  the  Damask,  &c. ,  the  Austrian 
Briars,  the  Hybrid  Sweet  Briars,  the  Scotch 
Briars  and  finishing  up  with  the  rugosas.  A 
description  is  given  of  each  class,  which  is  made 
interesting  by  a  short  history  ;  but  I  should  not 
have  included  such  varieties  as  Stanwell  Per- 
petual, Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Blanc  Double  de 
Coubert  and  other  hybrids  of  the  rugosa  under 
the  heading  of  summer-flowering  varieties,  as 
they  give  us  flowers  right  up  to  the  frost.  At 
the  end  of  the  chapter  there  are  long  lists  of 
Roses  that  I  venture  to  suggest  would  have  been 
more  useful  to  the  owners  of  small  gardens  if  a 
few  of  the  best  in  each  section  had  been  marked. 
In  a  small  garden  very  little  space  can  be  spared 
for  these  summer-flowering  Roses ;  they  should 
be  represented  I  admit,  but  that  is  all.  The 
following  chapter  deals  with  summer-flowering 
climbing  Roses,  and  the  same  remarks  apply — 
the  amateur  is  given  lists  occupying  six  pages  of 
the  book,  not  a  few  of  which  will  not  be  found  in 
any  ordinary  catalogue  of  Roses,  and  I  think  that 
a  selection  would  have  been  more  helpful. 

Chapter  VII.  Hybrid  Teas. — These  come  in 
for  Miss  Kingsley's  commendation,  as  indeed 
they  must.  They  form  the  piece  de  rfsmtance 
of  the  Rose-lover's  garden,  and  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  many  remarkable  developments  still 
await  us.  Miss  Kingsley  has  a  word  to  say  for 
Messrs.  Alexander  Dickson  and  Sons'  Irish 
single  Roses,  and  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
plates  in  the  book  is  that  of  Irish  Elegance  ; 
indeed,  it  is  favoured  with  two  coloured  plates. 
For  the  first  time  one  finds  selections  given,  but 
these  occur  in  the  letterpress  and  not  in  the 
lists  at  the  end.  There  are  a  few  errors  here 
and  there.  Hugh  Dickson  has  crept  in  among 
the  Hybrid  Teas,  Harry  Kirk  and  Peace  are 
both  Teas  and  not  Hybrid  Teas,  John  Laing 
Paul  should  be  George  Laing  Paul,  and  Florence 
Pemberton  is  surely  an  exhibition  Rose,  though 
a  garden  Rose  of  high  merit  as  well.  On  page 
99  a  few  Roses  are  mentioned  as  being  seen  at 
every  show,  and  we  are  told  they  are  all  exhibi- 
tion Roses  except  Florence  Pemberton.  Then  one 
would  hardly  call  Etoile  de  France  one  of  the 
best  crimsons  ;  but  these  and  other  matters  are 


small  details  and  in  no  way  detract  from  the 
general  merit  of  the  book. 

Chapter  VIII. — An  interesting  chapter  on  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  follows.  I  am  not  quite  sure 
that  Miss  Kingsley's  pedigree  of  the  first  Hybrid 
Perpetual  is  correct — there  seems  to  be  a  great 
deal  too  much  Rosa  indica  in  it — nor  do  I  think 
the  bed  described  as  made  up  of  some  thirty 
Roses  of  difi'erent  shades  of  crimson,  scarlet  and 
cherry  would  be  quite  such  a  success  as  is 
imagined  ;  at  any  rate,  it  would  have  to  be  fairly 
large  if  more  than  one  plant  of  each  variety  is  to 
be  planted,  and  how  about  the  habit  of  growth  ? 
No,  I  much  prefer  one  bed  one  variety. 

Chapter  IX.  Bourbon,  China  and  Polyantha 
Roses. — A  large  portion  of  this  chapter  is 
devoted  to  the  last-mentioned  class,  and  Miss 
Kingsley  rightly  says  they  should  be  more 
grown.  The  Dwarf  Polyantha  or  Pompon  Roses 
should  have  some  representatives  in  every 
garden,  however  small,  and  the  list  of  them  at 
the  end  of  the  chapter  is  unusually  complete.  I 
do  not  share,  however.  Miss  Kingsley's 
enthusiasm  for  Mme.  N.  Levavasseur ;  its 
colour  is  so  crude. 

In  Chapter  X 
pays  a  tribute 


make  it  worth  the  buying.  I  hope  it  will  meet 
at  the  hands  of  book- buyers  with  the  reception 
it  deserves. 

Purity.  Herbert  E.  Moltneux. 


THE  MAIDEN'S  BLUSH  ROSE. 
We  were  asked  recently  to  give  a  list  of  Roses, 
but  one  kind  was  essential — the  Maiden's  Blush. 
How  pleasant  are  the  memories  which  this  sweet 
flower  recalls — the  Rose  of  the  cottage  garden, 
fragrant  and  with  petals  that  seem  to  blush,  a 
soft  rosy  tint  that  one  loves  to  see  on  the  cheeks 
of  the  Enghsh  girl.  "Maiden's  Blush  "  is  a  pretty 
name  for  a  pretty  Rose,  and  it  is  a  delight  to  find 
that  a  love  for  these  old  and  beautiful  garden 
Roses  is  creeping  into  the  hearts  of  those  who 
live  in  this  matter-of-fact,  bustling,  hustling  age. 
The  old  garden  Roses  are  referred  to  in  "  Roses 
for  English  Gardens,"  and  it  ismentioned  on  page  15 
that  "important  among  the  old  garden  Roses  is 
R.  alba. 

Though    it    is    allowed    to    bear   a  botanical 

name,  it  is  not  thought  to  be  a  species,  but  is 

^  considered  a  cross  between  canina  and  gallies. 

C. ,  on  Rose  pests.  Miss  Kingsley  i  This  capital  Rose  is  often  seen  in  cottage  gardens, 

of  praise  to  the  National  Rose  i  where  it  is  a  great  favourite.     The  double  white 


ROSE    MAIDEH  S   BLUSH. 


Society's  latest  handbook,  "The  Enemies  of  the 
Rose,"  and  for  the  ordinary  Rose-grower  it 
surely  is  the  last  word  ;  the  chapter  deals  at 
length  with  the  pests  and  their  remedies.  The 
last  chapter  in  the  book,  as  I  have  already 
stated,  is  by  the  esteemed  president  of  the 
National  Rose  Society,  and  is  entitled  ' '  How  to 
grow  Roses  for  Exhibition."  Few  know  better 
how  to  grow  them  and  fewer  still  could  have 
better  in  the  limits  of  a  chapter  told  others  how 
to  do  so,  and  his  selection  of  the  best  exhibition 
Roses  would  be  hard  to  beat. 

I  have  left  all  reference  to  the  feature  of 
the  book  to  the  last — the  illustrations  ;  they  are 
indeed  excellent  and  nothing  but  praise  can  be 
given  to  them.  For  the  most  part  they  are 
coloured,  and  the  printers,  Messrs.  Swain  and 
Son  of  Barnet,  are  to  be  heartily  congratulated 
on  the  success  obtained.  Where  all  are  so  good 
it  would  be  difficult  to  pick  out  the  best.  The 
book  is  well  printed  and  neatly  bound,  and  is 
one  that  can  be  thoroughly  recommended  to  all 
Rose-growers,  especially  to  those  who  have  only 
just  started  that  most  fascinating  of  all  garden 
hobbies,  and  as  a  gift-book  its  illustrations  alone 


form  is  the  most  frequent,  but  the  delicate  pink 
Maiden's  Blush  is  a  better  flower.  Lovelier  still 
is  the  less  double  Celeste,  a  Rose  of  wonderful 
beauty  when  the  bud  is  half  opened.  When  once 
known  the  albas  may  be  recognised,  even  out  of 
flower,  by  the  bluish  colouring  and  general  look 
of  the  very  broad-leafleted  leaves.  The  blue 
colouring  is  accentuated  by  Celeste,  and  is  a 
charming  accompaniment  to  the  rosy  tinting  of 
the  heart  of  the  opening  flower.  The  albas,  as 
well  as  others  of  the  garden  Roses,  make  admir- 
able standards,  their  hardiness  and  strong  con- 
stitution enabling  them  to  be  grown  into  quite 
large-headed  bushes.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing 
to  see  standards  with  heads  a  yard  through  in  the 
gardens  of  cottagers,  who  also  grow  some  of  the 
Ayrshires  in  this  way."  It  is  most  pleasing  to 
find  these  old-fashioned,  sweetly-scented  Rosea 
again  coming  into  favour,  as  they  possess  many 
charms  which  commend  them  to  lovers  of  the 
beautiful  and  fragrant.  For  filling  positions  in 
those  gardens  where  formality  is  not  tolerate<  I 
they  are  excellent,  their  rather  straggling' 
growths  rendering  them  specially  suitable  for 
suoh  purposes. 


6 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[January  2,  1909. 


COLOURED    PLATE 

PLATE    1364. 


THEIR 


Keep  the  young  plants  in  a  rather  close  house 
or  frame  until  they  have  taken  well  to  the  new 
soil,  when  a  hardening  o£f  process  must  be 
commenced,  affording  more  air  gradually  and 
keeping  the  plants  as  close  to  the  glass  as 
possible.  If  properlj-  hardened  off  the  plants 
may  be  set  out  in  their  permanent  quarters  by 
the  middle  of  May,  soil  of  a  rather  poor  nature 
tending  to  free-flowering  and  good  colours  better 
than  that  of  a  very  rich  character.    Old  mortar  or 


SNAPDRAGONS    AND 

CULTURE. 
A  MONG  the  many  beautiful  hardy  plants 
/\  that  can  be  flowered  the  same  year 

/  %         as  the  seed  is  sown,  it  is  doubtful 

/      \        whether  any  are  capable  of  giving   lime  added  to  the  soil  will  be  much  appreciated. 
y  J^     such    good  and   lasting   displays   as    If  the  tall  and  intermediate  varieties  are  planted 

the   Snapdragons,   a    popular    name    1  foot  apart  each  way  and  the  Tom  Thumb  sorts 

9  inches,  they  will  quickly  fill  up  and  form  a 
beautiful  mass  of  colour  in  the  late  summer  and 
autumn  months. 

For  bedding  purposes  these  plants  are  splendid 


applied  generally  to  the  many  varieties  of  the 
Antirrhinum.  Strictly  speaking,  these  plants 
are  perennials ;  but  as  they  may  be  so  easily 
raised  from    seeds,    most    cultivators    do    not 


trouble  to  retain  old  plants  through  the  winter   especially  the  intermediate    and    Tom    Thumb 
unless  extra  laige  specimens  are  required,   the    types,  the  tall  varieties  being  excellent  for  mixed 
modern   practice    being    to  treat 
them  as  annuals. 

To  obtain  plants  to  flower  the 
same  year,  seeds  must  be  sown 
under  glass  during  January  or  the 
early  part  of  February,  employ- 
ing well-drained  shallow  pans  or 
boxes  as  receptacles.  A  good 
soil  mixture  for  sowing  the  seeds 
in  is  composed  of  loam  (one  part), 
sharp  sand  (one  part)  and  leaf- 
soil  or  well-decayed  manure  (one 
part),  the  whole  being  passed 
through  a  small  •  meshed  sieve, 
so  as  to  render  it  fine  and  suit- 
able for  receiving  the  rather  small 
seeds.  Some  of  the  rougher  por- 
tion must  be  retained  for  placing 
over  the  drainage  material  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pans  or  boxes,  as 
this  will  prevent  the  finer  par- 
ticles being  washed  down  into  the 
drainage,  which,  if  allowed,  would 
prevent  a  free  escape  of  super- 
fluous moisture. 

When  the  rough  and  fine  soil 
has  been  placed  in  position  and 
made  moderately  firm  it  should 
be  within  half  an  inch  of  the  rims 
of  the  receptacles,  and  the  surface 
must  be  made  quite  level,  when  it 
will  be  ready  for  the  seeds.  As 
mentioned  above,  these  are  rather 
small,  hence  care  will  be  needed 
to  scatter  them  evenly  and  thinly 
over  the  soil.  A  light  sprinkling 
of  very  fine  sandy  soil  is  all  the 
covering  needed,  and  this  may  be 
pressed  down  gently  with  the 
bottom  of  a  clean  pot.  Water 
well  with  a  very  fine-rosed  can, 
cover  with  a  sheet  of  brown 
paper  or  a  pane  of  glass  and  then 
stand  the  pans  or  boxes  in  a 
warm  greenhouse  or  frame  where 
the  temperature  ranges  from  50° 
to  60". 

Should  the  soil  subsequently 
show  signs  of  drying,  it  must  be 
gently  sprinkled  with  a  fine 
spray  from  can  or  syringe,  taking  care  not  to 
disturb  the  seeds.  When  germination  has  been 
effected,  the  brown  paper  or  glass  mustbe  promptly 
removed  and  the  pans  or  boxes  placed  near  the 
glass,  otherwise  the  seedlings  will  quickly 
become  drawn  and  spoiled.  As  soon  as  the  young 
plants  are  large  enough  to  handle,  pricking  off 
must  be  resorted  to,  and  boxes  about  4  inches 
deep  are  the  best  for  this  purpose.  Good  drainage 
is  essential,  and  the  soil  mixture  advised  for  seed- 
sowing  will  answer  very  well,  but  it  may  with 
advantage  be  used  in  a  rougher  state.  Three 
inches  apart  each  way  is  none  too  much  for 
the  seedlings,  and  it  is  imperative  that  the  soil 
be  made  firm  around  the  roots  of  each  as  the 
work  proceeds,  a  firm  (not  hard)  rooting  medium 
inducing  that  sturdy  growth  which  is  so 
desirable. 


BOKDER  OF  SNOWDROPS   IN   A   CORNISH   GARDEN.      (See  page  1.) 


borders  and  also  for  cutting.  The  many  beautiful 
colours  now  obtainable  in  these  plants  should 
induce  flower  lovers  to  grow  them  more 
extensively. 

The  accompanying  coloured  plate  represents 
three  of  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Son's  intermediate 
varieties,  which  attain  a  height  of  from  12  inches 
to  18  inches,  and  which  are  superb  for  bedding. 
In  addition  to  the  three  there  shown,  this  type 
can  be  obtained  in  rich  crimson  and  yellow 
colours  and  also  pure  white,  and  these  colours 
are  also  obtainable  in  the  tall  and  Tom  Thumb 
types.  It  is  really  wonderful  how  much  these 
charming,  old-fashioned  plants  have  been  im- 
proved during  recent  years,  a  fact  that  has  led 
to  their  being  more  extensively  cultivated  in  all 
gardens  where  beautiful  colours  and  quaint 
forms  are  appreciated. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

THREE   GOOD   VIBURNUMS. 

THE  three  best  deciduous  Viburnums  for 
gardens,  or,  at  least,  the  most  showy, 
are  V.  Opulus  var.  sterile  (Guelder 
Rose),  V.  plicatum  and  V.  macro- 
cephalum.  The  first  two  are  perfectly 
hardy  ;  the  last  is  better  planted  at 
the  foot  of  a  south  wall  than  fully  in  the  open. 
V.  Opulus  sterile  is  the  barren  form  of  the 
Guelder  Rose,  a  shrub  found  wild  in  the  hedges 
and  thickets  of  Britain.  It  is  a  plant  that  loves 
good  soil  and  abundant  moisture,  as.  indeed, 
most  Viburnums  do.  It  is  often  used  in 
shrubberies  where  it  has  to  take  its  chance  with 
other  things,  and  its  robust  constitution  renders 
it  admirably  adapted  for  this  purpose.  But  to 
be  seen  at  its  best  it  ought  to  be 
grown  as  an  isolated  specimen  or 
in  a  group  on  a  lawn ;  it  then 
makes  a  rounded  bush,  well 
furnished  to  the  base,  and  grows 
ultimately  8  feet  or  10  feet  in 
height.  The  pure  white  trusses 
are  2  inches  to  .3  inches  across, 
and  appear  in  May  and  June  at 
the  ends  of  the  branches ;  they  are 
consequently  scattered  indis- 
criminately over  the  bush  and 
have  not  the  regular  arrangement 
of  V.  plicatum. 

V.  plicatum  is  at  last  finding 
its  way  into  gardens  after  more 
than  half  a  century's  comparative 
neglect.  Without  doubt  it  is 
one  of  the  very  best  of  hardy 
shrubs.  It  is  considerably  dwarfer 
in  habit  than  V.  Opulus  sterile, 
and  grows  more  slowly  in  height. 
This  character  renders  it  very 
suitable  for  planting  in  beds  or 
groups.  Its  trusses  of  flowers  are 
3  inches  across,  and  they  occur 
in  pairs  at  each  joint  along  the 
branches  made  the  previous  year. 
The  branches  mostly  take  a 
horizontal  direction,  and  as  all 
the  trusses  grow  upwards  they 
form  two  regular  rows,  and  each 
branch  gives  a  magnificent  wreath 
of  blossom  when  at  its  best. 

As  far  as  the  individual  truss 
of  flowers  is  concerned,  V. 
macrocephalum  surpasses  all 
others  in  size.  It  is  rounded  or 
somewhat  pyramidal  in  outline 
and  from  6  inches  to  S  inches 
across  ;  the  flowers  are  1  inch  to 
IJ  inches  in  diameter  and  pure 
white.  This  fine  plant  is  the 
barren  form  of  a  species  (V.  Kete- 
leeri)  which  is  in  cultivation,  but 
not  common.  Asstated previously, 
V.  macrocephalum  if  grown  out 
of  doors  requires  the  protection 
of  a  wall  for  it  to  thrive  really 
well ;  such,  at  least,  is  the  experi- 
ence near  London.  There  are,  of  course,  many 
parts  of  the  kingdom,  especially  in  the  extreme 
south  and  south-west,  where  that  would  not  be 
needed. 


YEW  HEDGES. 
These  frequently  present  a  rusty  appearance 
at  this  time  of  year,  which  points  to  soil 
exhaustion.  If  given  a  liberal  top-dressing 
of  good  farmyard  manure,  they  will  quickly 
respond  by  returning  to  a  beautiful  deep 
green  colour.  Collect  all  prunings  of  trees 
and  shrubs,  with  fruit  tree  prunings  and  all 
the  available  wood,  into  a  suitable  place  for 
burning.  The  wooid  ashes  should  be  stored 
away  in  a  dry  place  for  future  use  in  the  flower 
garden.  T. 


Januaey  2,  1909. 1 


THE    GARDEN. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 


GREENHOUSE     CLIMBERS 
(LAPAGERIAS). 

1  PRESUME  it  is  owing  to  the  long  time 
which  Lapagerias  take  to  mature  that  they 
are  not  more  frequently  met  with.  The 
idea  of  only  planting  such  things  that 
yield  immediately  is  increasing ;  but  why 
I  am  at  a  loss  to  know,  for  is  it  not  a 
fact  that  the  only  real  pleasure  to  be  got  out  of 
gardening  is  in  the  tending  and  watching  of  the 
most  tender  subjects  ?  At  any  rate,  this  is  my 
own  experience — some  would  call  it  anxiety — 
but  what  is  anxiety  to  some  is  pleasure  to  others, 
and  I  allude  here  to  true  lovers  of  gardening  and 
not  those  who  simply  garden  for  what  they  can 
get  out  of  it,  and  who  cannot  wait  even  twelve 
months  to  see  the  results  of  their  labours. 

Lapagerias  bloom  at  a  time  when  flowers  are 
most  acceptable,  and  for  this  reason  alone  their 
culture  is  worth  every  consideration.  They  are 
by  no  means  delicate,  providing  they  are  given 
proper  treatment  and  grown  under  favourable 
conditions.  I  agree,  they  are  not  easy  to  grow, 
especially  when  a  bad  position  has  been  chosen 
for  them.  Numbers  of  people  try  to  grow  them 
in  cramped-up  houses,  with  the  roots  confined  in 
pots  and  the  growths  (such  as  they  are)  tied 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  roof  glass,  and  exposed 
to  the  fall  rays  of  the  sun  summer  and  winter 
alike.     The  idea  is  absolutely  wrong. 

If  a  lover  of  these  beautiful  climbers  de- 
termines to  grow  them  well,  he  must  first  of  all 
make  sure  that  he  has  a  well-ventilated  and  cool 
house,  for  preference  one  with  an  eastern  or 
northern  aspect.  This  decided,  the  best  position 
for  the  roots  is  under  the  shade  of  a  wall  and  not 
in  a  pot,  providing,  of  course,  the  plants  are  of  a 
convenient  size  and  ready  for  planting  out.  The 
roots  have  a  rambling  nature  and  delight  in  what 
we  gardeners  term  an  open  compost.  This 
should  consist  of  two  parts  turfy  loam,  two  parts 
peat  broken  into  small  pieces,  one  part  broken 
brick  rubble,  three  parts  silver  sand  and  half  a 
part  of  bone-meal  and  soot.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  have  too  large  a  hole  made  for  the  planting  ; 
the  soil  can  be  added  to  as  the  plants  get  older. 
After  having  placed  the  ball  of  roots  in  position 
and  rammed  the  compost  firmly  round  about, 
a  good  layer  of  silver  sand  should  be  placed  over 
the  whole  and  a  thorough  soaking  of  clear 
water  given,  for  Lapagerias  delight  in  an 
abundance  of  water  ;  in  fact,  I  do  not  believe  it 
is  possible  to  give  them  too  much  when  they  are 
growing.  As  to  the  established  growths,  it  is 
not  necessary  they  should  be  close  to  the  roof 
glass  ;  in  fact,  I  always  found  they  kept  far 
cleaner  and  more  free  from  thrips  and  spider 
when  grown  some  3  feet  or  4  feet  from  the  roof. 
But  the  chief  thing  in  their  culture  is  to  watch 
the  young  growths  as  they  push  through  the 
sand.  They  almost  remind  one  of  Asparagus 
shoots,  and  immediately  they  are  visible  some 
means  should  be  used  for  protecting  them,  for  if 
there  is  a  slug  anywhere  near  it  is  a  million 
chances  to  one  he  will  find  the  much-coveted 
growth  before  many  hours.  A  paraffin  lamp- 
chimney  or  a  piece  of  wire  gauze  are  the  best ;  I 
prefer  the  former  myself.  Place  the  chimney 
over  the  growths  and  afterwards  cover  the  top 
with  a  small  piece  of  cotton-wool,  for  I  can  only 
at  this  point  compare  a  Lapageria  to  a  Cattleya 
or  Orchids  in  general ;  it  is  absolutely  essential 
to  successfully  establish  each  growth  before  a 
good  display  of  flowers  is  obtainable. 

The  leaves  of  Lapagerias  are  not  thick,  but 
very  hard  and  smooth,  and,  consequently,  will 
stand  any  amount  of  syringing ;  I  should  say 
the  more  the  better — at  any  rate,  a  good  drench- 
ing twice  a  day  from  April  to  September. 
Bright  sunshine  is  not  good  for  them,  but  this 
can  be  prevented  by  shading  at  such  times  when 
the  sun  is  powerful,  or,  better  still,  by  the  use  of 
permanent  shading,  such  as  limewash  or  Summer 


Cloud.  Year  by  year,  as  the  plants  get  older, 
it  will  be  found  that  the  growths  get  longer. 
I  have  known  shoots  which  have  made  their 
appearance  in  March  to  attain  a  length  of 
20  feet  by  September.  In  this  case  it  was  the 
Nash  Court  variety  and  in  the  Lapageria  house 
at  Nash  Court,  where  beautiful  flowers  could  be 
seen  in  thousands  in  the  nineties. 

There  are  several  varieties  in  commerce,  but 
the  Nash  Court  one,  although  not  the  prettiest 
shaped  of  the  red  ones,  is  much  the  best  to 
grow.  It  was  first  brought  into  this  country 
by  the  late  Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  who,  having  it 
in  his  nursery  at  HoUoway,  was  unfortunate  in 
having  the  labels  mixed,  and  by  this  means  the 
plant  was  sold  by  mistake  to  Mrs.  Lade,  the  then 
tenant  at  Nash  Court,  who  would  not  part  with 
it  for  any  price  until  some  years  after,  when  a 
quantity  of  rooted  layers  were  sold  to  the  late 
Mr.  John  Laing  of  Forest  Hill  for  a  sum  well 
into  three  figures,  and  after  she  had  been  awarded 
a  first-class  certificate  by  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society.  I  have  some  recollection  of  Mr. 
Humphrey  (the  then  head-gardener  at  Nash 
Court)  telling  me  that  one  of  the  bines  or  branches 
which  he  sent  to  the  [Drill  Hall,  Westminster, 


Individually  they  are  a  little  over  1  inch  long, 
somewhat  curved  and  very  much  swollen  in  the 
middle.  It  is  a  plant  of  very  easy  culture  if 
given  the  treatment  common  to  the  general  run 
of  warm,  half-shrubby  greenhouse  plants. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


LONGEVITY  OF  APPLE  TREES. 

A  CORRESPONDENT  writes:  "I  should 
be  much  obliged  if  you  could  tell  me 
whether  it  is  true  that  each  sort  of 
Apple  dies  out  in  a  hundred  years  ? 
^  Also,  in  what  year  was  Ribston 
Pippin  introduced  ?  "  This  raises  an 
interesting  question  relative  to  the  longevity  of 
the  Apple  tree.  We  cannot  give  a  decided 
answer  to  this  question.  Perhaps  some  of  our 
readers  may  be  able  to  kindly  do  so. 

The  oldest  Apple  tree  we  know  of  is  the  original 
tree  of  Bramley's  Seedling  growing  in  one  of  the 
orchards  of  Mr.  Henry  Merryweather  at  South- 
well,  Notts.     This,  we  ^believe,  is  over  eighty 


A  FREE-FLOWEBING   MASS  OF  VIBURNUM    PLTCATDM. 


Cirried  eighty  flowers — surely  a  great  novelty  ; 
but  it  illustrates  the  able  manner  in  which  he 
handled  these  beautiful  climbers. 

George  Burrows. 
Shendish  Gardens,  Hemel  Hempstead. 


A  FREE-FLOWERING   PLANT   FOR 
THE    GREENHOUSE. 

(RUBLLIA  AMCENA.) 

A  GREAT  number  of  plants  belonging  to  the 
Natural  Order  Aeanthacese  are  of  considerable 
value  for  the  embellishment  of  the  greenhouse  or 
stove,  as  in  the  majority  of  cases  their  blossoms 
are  freely  borne  and  brightly  coloured.  One  of 
the  most  continuous  flowering  of  all  is  Ruellia 
amosna,  a  native  of  South  America  and  fairly 
well  known  in  cultivation,  but  certainly  not  met 
with  to  the  extent  that  its  merits  entitle  it  to  be. 
It  forms  a  rather  upright,  freely-branched  speci- 
men, very  efiective  when  about  18  inches  in 
height.  The  flowers,  disposed  in  a  loose  and 
pleasing  manner  over  the  upper  part  of  the  plant, 
are  tubular  in  shape  and  light  crimson  in  colour. 


years  of  age.  It  is  a  grand  old  veteran,  but,  as 
may  be  expected,  showing  signs  of  age  in  the 
partial  decay  of  some  of  its  limbs ;  but  to  all 
appearance  to  the  contrary  its  life  may  be 
extended  to  considerably  over  a  hundred  years. 

We  were  speaking  on  this  subject  a  few  days 
ago  to  an  old  Scottish  gardener,  who  said  that 
about  three  years  ago  he  revisited  the  home  of 
his  childhood — a  garden  of  which  his  father 
took  charge  in  1844  near  Glasgow.  At  that  time 
there  were  some  large  Keswick  Codlin  Apple 
trees  in  the  garden  at  least  twenty  years  of  age. 
They  were  there  still,  thus  making  them  upwards 
of  eighty  years  old. 

The  first  time  Ribston  Pippin  is  mentioned  is 
in  the  catalogue  of  the  Brompton  Park  Nursery 
in  1785.  The  original  tree  was  raised  at  Ribston 
Park,  Knaresborough,  where  it  was  blown  down 
in  1810.  It  was  afterwards  supported  by  stakes 
in  a  horizontal  position,  and  continued  to  pro- 
duce some  fruit  until  it  died  in  1835.  Soon 
afterwards  a  sucker  from  the  roots  of  the  old 
tree  grew  up  and  formed  a  tree,  which,  we 
believe,  is  still  alive. 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[jANtTARY    2,  1909. 


QARDENING      FOR      'BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY   WEEK. 

HARDY  FLOWER  GARDEN.— All 
trenching  and  digging  operationa 
must  be  pushed  on  as  rapidly  as 
possible  now  during  open  weather. 
When  the  ground  is  frozen  hard, 
manure  may  be  wheeled  into  those 
positions  where  it  is  required  and  all  stakes, 
labels  and  tying  material  attended  to,  so  that 


I. — .\N     OLD    SEAKALE     PLANT     WITH     SEVERAL 
THONC-LIKE  ROOTS. 

when  the  busy  sowing  season  comes  along  delay 
will  not  be  caused  owing  to  these  adjuncts  not 
being  ready.  If  severe  frosts  threaten,  the 
tender  Roses,  such  as  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas, 
must  be  afforded  protection,  and  there  is  no 
better  way  of  doing  this  than  drawing  the  soil 
up  into  a  cone-like  heap  around  the  stems  to  a 
height  of  8  inches  or  10  inches.  It  is  very 
probable  that  the  growths  will  be  killed  down  to 
this,  but  the  buds  beneath  will  be  saved  and  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  furnish  the  bush  when 
growth  has  taken  place.  Standard  varieties  of  a 
tender  character  should  have  a  little  light  Bracken 
or  straw  tied  among  their  branches,  taking  care 
to  see  that  the  shoots  are  well  staked,  otherwise 
they  may  be  blown  right  out  of  the  stock. 

The  Vegetable  Garden. — Here  again  digging 
and  trenching  operations  will  provide  the 
principal  work.  Rhubarb  and  Seakale  may  be 
lifted  for  forcing,  and  if  the  crowns  of  the  former 
are  exposed  to  frost  or  cold  weather  for  a  few 
days  before  being  taken  into  the  house  they  will 
force  better.  Where  outdoor  forcing  is  to  be 
adopted  (and  the  produce  obtained  thus  is  always 
of  better  quality),  old  boxes,  barrels,  or  prefer- 
ably large  pots  made  specially  for  the  purpose, 
may  be  placed  over  the  crowns  now,  unless  the 
ground  is  frozen,  and  banked  well  round  with 
fermenting  material,  a  mixture  in  equal  parts  of 
long  stable   manure  and  leaves  being  the  best. 


Place  a  layer  of  this  18  inches  thick  all  round 
each  pot  or  tub  and  tread  it  firm. 

Oreenhouse  ajid  Frames.  — If  not  already  done, 
no  time  must  be  lost  in  thoroughly  cleaning 
these  structures,  so  that  they  will  be  in  readi- 
nees  for  the  busy  seed-sowing  season,  which  will 
soon  be  here.  The  present  is  essentially  a  time 
of  preparation  and  anticipation,  and  all  seed- 
pans  and  boxes  must  be  cleaned  and  prepared 
ready  tor  seed-sowing.  Soil,  too,  for  this  pur- 
pose and  also  for  potting  must  be  partially  pre- 
pared by  taking  the  various  ingredients  in  a 
rough  state  under  cover  and  mixing  them  well 
together.  The  heap  then  will  have  time  to  dry 
somewhat  and  also  become  slightly  warmed 
before  it  is  required  for  use.  Auriculas  and 
Carnations  in  frames  must  now  be  attended  to 
most  cautiously,  and  it  is  very  probable  that 
they  will  not  need  any  water  at  all.  If  the 
soil  in  which  any  are  growing  is  quite  dry, 
water  it  with  warm  water  in  the  morning. 
Afford  these  plants  plenty  of  air  whenever  the 
outside  temperature  is  a  few  degrees  above 
freezing  point,  as  they  are  quite  hardy,  the 
object  of  keeping  them  in  frames  being  to 
prevent  them  becoming  saturated  with  moisture, 
which  is  fatal  to  their  well-being.  Roman 
Hyacinths,  early  Tulips  and  Daffodils  and  other 
bulbs  may  be  removed  from  the  plunging 
material  as  required  ;  they  should  go  in  a  cold 
frame  for  a  week  or  so  until  the  tops  are  green 
before  placing  them  in  the  greenhouse. 

The  Fruit  Garden. — Any  pruning  not  yet 
finished  must  be  done  as  soon  as  possible,  this 
remark,  however,  not  applying  to  Gooseberries, 
which  are  best  left  until  the  end  of  February 
where  bud-eating  birds  are  prevalent.  Any  old 
trees  that  are  covered  with  moss  or  lichen  should 
be  well  scraped  and  cleaned  and  the  trunks  and 
branches  thoroughly  coated  with  a  thick  solutii  >ii 
of  fresh,  hot  lime.  This  will  kill  any  vegetable 
matter  that  remains,  and  also  any  insects  or 
their  eggs  with  which  it  comes  into  contact. 

Ordering  Seeds.  —  The  various  seedsmen  are 
now  issuing  their  catalogues  for  the  coming 
spring  and  summer,  and  it  may  be  well  to 
remind  beginners  in  gardening  of  the  advis- 
ability of  sending  in  their  orders  early.  All 
business  firms  execute  their  orders  in  rotation 
as  received,  and  in  the  busy  season  delay  is 
absolutely  unavoidable.  Much  worry  and  loss 
of  time,  both  to  the  seedsman  and  customer, 
would  be  saved  by  ordering  early.  Another 
point  to  remember  is  to  take  eare  and  use  the 
printed  order-form  now  invariably  sent  out  with 
a  seed  catalogue.  Where  this  is  done  an  order 
for  seeds  can  be  put  up  in  a  very  short  time,  but 
where  the  items  are  jotted  down  without  any 
regard  to  order,  the  poor  seedsman  or  his  assis- 
tant is  given  a  considerable  and  unnecessary 
amount  of  trouble.  H. 


PROPAGATING  SEAKALE  BY  ROOT 
CUTTINGS. 
In  a  recent  issue  we  published  a  series  of  illus- 
trations showing  various  methods  of  forcing 
Seakale.  Doubtless  there  are  readers  of  The 
Garden  who  desire  to  raise  a  number  of  crowns 
themselves,  both  for  outdoor  and  indoor  forcing, 
and  who  are  prepared  to  devote  the  necessary 
space  and  take  the  trouble  to  do  the  thing 
thoroughly. 

There  are  two  methods  of  propagating  this 
subject,  one  by  seed  and  the  other  by  root 
cuttings.  Raising  Seakale  from  seed  is  an  easy, 
cheap  and  satisfactory  method  of  propagation. 


although  much  slower  than  that  of  cuttings. 
Seed  is  usually  sown  in  March  or  early  April. 
Drills  1  foot  apart  are  made  in  well-prepared 
ground  and  the  seed  sown  about  li  inches  deep 
and  6  inches  apart.  This  is  a  better  practice 
than  sowing  thickly  and  subsequently  thinning 
out  the  resulting  seedlings  to  6  inches  apart. 
Later  on  remove  each  alternate  seedling,  thus 
leaving  the  plants  1  foot  apart  ultimately.  Two 
years  at  least  are  required  for  the  plants  to  be 
sufficiently  advanced  to  lift  for  forcing. 

We  have  below  endeavoured  to  show  how 
Seakale  crowns  may  be  obtained  for  forcing 
within  a  year.  We  will  first  of  all  deal  with  the 
old  plants  as  lifted  for  forcing  purposes  or  any 
old  plants  obtainable  in  the  kitchen  garden,  as 
these  will  answer  our  purpose  admirably,  and 
in  Fig.  1  a  good  illustration  of  an  old  Seakale 
root  is  given.  Here  it  will  be  observed  how 
vigorous  are  the  fangs  or  extremities  of  the  roots. 
These  thong-like  roots,  or  "  thongs,"  as  they  are 
technically  termed,  may  be  cut  or  broken  off 
from  the  main  root  quite  easily.  The  strongest 
plants  are  always  raised  from  root  cuttings,  and 
these  are  obtained  from  the  severed  portions. 
Most  beginners  can,  no  doubt,  procure  a  few  roots 
from  the  garden  of  a  friend,  and  if  not  able  to 
do  this  they  may  be  acquired  quite  cheaply  from 
nurserymen.  The  severed  thongs  vary  in  thick- 
ness. Some  are  as  thick  as  a  man's  forefinger, 
others  are  nearer  in  substance  to  that  of  the 
small  finger  of  a  lady.  These  are  cut  up  into 
lengths  of  about  4  inches.  For  exceptionally 
fine  forcing  roots  <j  inches  is  thought  the  better 
size  by  competent  authorities,  but  either  size  will 
give  satisfactory  results. 

The  upper  or  wide  end  of  each  length  should 
be  cut  straight  across,  and  the  lower  or  narrow 
end  in  slanting  fashion.     As  there  is  often  very 


2. — PREPARED  ROOT  CnTTlN<:S  MADE  FROM  THE 

thong-uke  roots  shown  in  FIO.  I. 

little  difference  between  the  upper  and  lower  end 
of  some  of  the  lengths,  it  is  a  good  rule  to  cut  the 
lower  end  slantwise,  which  quickly  determines  the 
fact.  This  should  be  done  in  the  first  instance. 
Fig.  3  aptly  portrays  three  prepared  lengths  of 
the  thong-like  roots  in  varying  sizes.  These 
pieces  are  ready  to  be  dealt  with  forthwith. 


January  2,  1909.] 


THE     GAEDEN. 


3. — ROOT  CUTTINGS  MADE  INTO  A  BUNDLE  READY 
FOR   PLACING   IN   SOIL  UNTIL  THE  8PHING.[   ', 

There  are  two  distinct  methods  of  treating  the 
prepared  lengths.  One  is  to  tie  them  up  into 
bundles  of  about  twenty-five,  and  this  may  be 
done  at  any  period  during  the  winter.  A  series 
of  such  bundles  may  be  placed  on  end  thickly  in 
suitable  boxes,  and  a  small  quantity  of  fine, 
light  soil  should  then  be  placed  about  them.  A 
bundle  of  prepared  lengths  is  depicted  in  Fig.  3. 
The  boxes  should  be  placed  in  the  celd  frame 
until  April,  by  which  period  the  root  cuttings 
will  have  formed  well-defined  eyes  which  will 
ensure  the  production  of  good  crowns  in  the 
distant  future.  Another  method  is  to  fill  a  box 
or  a  series  of  boxes  of  sufficient  depth  with  some 
fine,  light  compost,  dibbling  in  the  prepared 
root  cuttings  about  2  inches  apart,  both  in  the 
rows  and  between  the  individual  pieces.  Take 
care  that  the  thicker  end  of  each  root  cutting  is 
uppermost,  and  when  inserting  it  see  that  it  is 
just  level  with  the  surfi^ce  soil.  The  cold 
frame  or  cool  greenhouse  will  answer  the  pur- 
pose of  the  cuttings  for  some  time  to  come, 
but  care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  soil 
uniformly  moist. 

Before  planting  outdoors  in  April  select 
quarters  that  are  open  and  sunny.  We  prefer 
ground  that  has  been  trenched  from  2  feet 
6  inches  to  3  feet,  as  the  results  always  justify 
the  labour  expended  in  this  way.  A  heavy 
dressing  of  cow,  pig  or  peat  moss  litter  manure 
should  be  incorporated  in  soil  of  light  texture, 
that  of  a  heavy  character  being  better  when 
well  -  rotted  horse  manure  is  applied.  Sea- 
weed is  a  splendid  fertiliser  for  this  root. 
These  quarters  should  be  prepared  in  the 
winter  and  the  surface  soil  forked  over  and 
levelled  in  the  spring  pre- 
vious to  the  planting. 

When  planting  root  out- 
tings  that  are  to  provide 
forcing  crowns  in  the  suc- 
ceeding winter,  plant  them 
15  inches  apart  in  rows,  ob- 
serving a  distance  between 
the  rows  of  20  inches. 
Keep  the  ground  clear, 
never  permitting  weeds  to 
develop,  using  the  hoe  fre- 
quently to  effect  this  desir- 
able end.  There  is  a  ten- 
dency in  some  roots  to 
develop  flower-stems,  but 
these  must  not  be  allowed 
to  form  under  any  circum- 
stances. In  the  summer 
months,  when  growth  is 
vigorous,  occasional  dust- 
ings of  guano,  soot  or  salt 
should  be  applied.  Liquid 
manure  also  will  encourage 
the  plants  to  develop  strong 
growth. 


PYRETHRUMS  AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 

Among  the  many  denizens  of  the  herbaceous 
border,  few,  if  any,  are  capable  of  giving  such  a 
wealth  of  graceful  and  bsautiful-eoloured  flowers 
for  a  small  outlay  of  time  and  money  as  the 
Pyrethrums,  yet  they  are  not  grown  nearly  so 
extensively  as  their  many  merits  demand.  In 
addition  to  being  first-class  subjects  for  garden 
decoration,  they  are  splendid  for  cutting,  their 
long  stems  and  graceful  forms  rendering  them 
exceedingly  attractive  when  arranged  in  tall 
vases.  The  range  of  colours  now  obtainable  in 
these  plants  is  so  large  that  all  tastes  may 
be  satisfied,  and,  of  course,  both  double  and 
single  flowers  of  all  colours  may  be  procured. 

As  regards  soil,  the  Pyrethrum  is  not  at  all 
particular,  although,  like  most  other  plants,  it 
delights  in  a  deeply-worked,  well-enriched  root 
medium,  and  if  this  is  of  a  rather  cool  nature  so 
much  the  better.  Where  the  soil  is  light  and 
inclined  to  be  sandy  it  may  be  rendered  suitable 
by  the  liberal  addition  of  cow  manure,  and  if 
the  plants  are  mulched  during  hot  weather  they 
will  give  good  returns  in  soil  of  this  description. 
Planting  may  safely  be  done  at  any  time 
during  the  winter  until  the  end  of  February, 
providing  the  soil  is  not  frozen  or  over-wet,  and 
care  should  be  taken  to  shake  some  fine  soil  well 
among  the  mass  of  fibrous  roots,  otherwise  they 
will  get  matted  together  and  not  take  to  the  new 
soil  so  well.  In  the  border  a  good  eft'ect  may  be 
obtained  by  planting  triangular  clumps  composed 
of  three  plants  of  one  variety,  and  where  they 
are  used  for  filling  large  beds,  it  is  best  to  use 
only  one  or  two  sorts  of  the  same  colour. 

During  the  growing  season,  and  especially 
when  the  flowers  are  just  beginning  to  push  up 
from  the  base,  the  plants  are  greatly  benefited 
by  frequent  waterings  with  weak  liquid  manure. 
Light  twiggy  stakes  will  be  needed  to  support 
the  flowers,  and  these  should  be  so  placed  that 
the  plant  retains  its  natural  and  graceful  out- 
line. Immediately  the  flowers  have  become 
shabby  they  should  be  cut  down  quite  close  to 
the  ground,  a  mulching  of  well-decayed  manure 
placed  round  the  plants  and  the  waterings  with 
liquid  manure  continued.  If  this  is  done  a 
second  crop  of  most  welcome  flowers  will  be 
produced  in  the  autumn.  Propagation  is  easily 
efl»cted  by  dividing  the  old  clumps  when  they 
are  lifted  for  replanting  in  the  winter  months. 
The  following  are  all  excellent  varieties  which 
may  be  thoroughly  relied  upon  :  Doubles — 
Aphrodite,  pure  white  ;  Carl  Vogt,  white,  early ; 
Empress  Queen,  blush  ;  Ivonne  Cayeux,  primrose 
yellow ;  King  Oscar,  crimson-scarlet  and  Lord 
Rosebery,  carmine-scarlet ;  Singles — Langport 
Scarlet,  rich  cardinal  scarlet,  new ;  Cassiope, 
crimson-purple ;  Dorothy,  flesh  colour ;  Edna  May, 
clear  pink,  and  James  Kelway,  crimson-scarlet 


4-- 


ROOT  CUTTINGS    DIBBLED    2    INCHES   APART    INTO    A    BOX    READY 
KOR  PLACING   IN   A  COOL  GREENHOUSE   OK   FRAME. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

How  TO  Improve  It. — Town  dwellers  have,  of 
course,  more  difficulties  to  contend  with  than 
those  who  reside  in  the  country.  The  very  fact 
that  there  are  so  many  drawbacks  to  be  faced 
should  make  the  owners  of  town  gardens  all  the 
more  determined  to  surmount  them,  and  so  have 
beautiful  borders  in  their  enclosures.  To  this 
end  all  enthusiasts  will  seek  for  information. 
In  various  instances  work  is  deferred  until  the 
commencement  of  the  New  Year,  and  gardening 
is  no  exception.  Thousands  of  owners  of  town 
gardens  will  now  be  able  to  look  back  with  much 
satisfaction  on  the  good  results  achieved  during 
the  past  year,  mainly  owing  to  following  the 
sound  advice  given  week  by  week  in  this  column. 
It  has,  no  doubt,  given  them  an  impetus  in  their 
work  and  made  them  feel  that,  however  good  the 
work  has  been,  they  are  determined  to  be  still 
more  successful  in  the  coming  year. 

A  Sound  Beginning. —The  elementary  work 
should  be  thoroughly  done,  else  general  effects 
will  be  marred.  For  example,  if  shrubs  and 
other  border  subjects  are  planted  in  undug  soil 
of  poor  quality,  satisfactory  growth  will  never 
result,  so  that  in  such  circumstances  there  will 
be  a  never-ending  work  of  mending  which  will, 
at  the  best,  leave  many  ugly  patches. 

The  Shrubbery  Borders. — There  is  not  any 
beauty  in  stunted,  unhealthy  shrubs  ;  but  such  a 
condition  of  theseplants  is  frequently  owing  to  lack 
of  due  preparation  of  soil  in  the  first  place  and  not 
to  the  unsuitability  of  the  shrubs.  Where  it  is 
intended  to  root  out  old  specimens  and  to  replant 
without  delay  young  ones,  or  to  make  an  entirely 
new  border,  see  that  the  soil  is  first  deeply 
trenched  and  enriched  with  manure  before 
planting  a  single  shrub.  Even  the  deep  stirring 
up  of  the  soil  will  greatly  benefit  the  plants. 
Shrubs  growing  in  very  hard,  shallow-tilled 
ground  soon  show  signs  of  distress  and  lose 
many  leaves  when  a  spell  of  hot,  dry  weather 
comes  in  summer,  and  it  is  during  such  a  period 
that  we  like  to  see  healthy,  luxuriant  shrubs. 
In  trenching  the  ground  thoroughly  break  up  the 
subsoil  2  feet  below  the  surface,  but  leave  it 
below  and  well  mix  a  generous  supply  of  rotted 
manure  with  the  soil  nearer  the  top.  All  the 
roots  of  old  shrubs  should  be  carefully  picked 
out  of  the  soil,  burned  if  possible  and  the  ashes 
returned  to  the  border.  It  is  not  necessary  nor 
advisable  to  break  up  the  surface  soil  too  finely, 
especially  if  it  be  of  a  clayey  nature,  as  the 
weather  acting  upon  it  will  in  due  course 
pulverise  and  sweeten  it,  so  that  by  the  time 
spring  comes  it  will  be  possible  to  rake  down  the 
surface  lumps,  as  they  will  crumble  to  a  powder. 
The  following  are  suitable  kinds  of  shrubs  to 
plant :  Aucuba  japoniea.  Hollies  (especially  the 
smooth-leaved  varieties).  Privet  (the  evergreen 
and  the  oval-leaved  sorts).  Rhododendrons, 
Flowering  Currants,  Berberis  Aquifolium,  B. 
Darwinii,  Euonymuses,  Laurustinus,  Pemettyas, 
Pyracanthas,  Broom  and  Box. 

The  Planting. — On  no  account  should  any 
shrubs  be  planted  during  frosty  weather  or  while 
the  soil  is  very  wet.  Wait  until  open  weather 
comes  and  the  soil  is  comparatively  dry  and 
does  not  adhere  to  the  boots  and  tools.  Make  all 
holes  sufficiently  large  to  contain  the  roots 
without  any  cramping,  but  do  not  put  in 
the  plants  too  deeply.  Make  the  soil  firm  around 
the  roots  and,  in  the  absence  of  rain,  give  a 
thorough  watering  to  settle  the  soil  more  firmly. 
Roses. — These  should  be  protected  from  severe 
frosts,  generally  which  come  very  early  in  the 
New  Year.  A  surface  mulch  of  half-rotted 
litter  laid  on  to  a  depth  of  about  4  inches  and 
tightly  pressed  around  the  stems  of  the  bushes 
will  preserve  the  roots  from  injury.  Teas 
and  the  more  tender  varieties  of  Hybrid  Teas 
should  have  some  clean,  dry  straw  wrapped 
loosely  around  their  stems  and  branches  in 
addition  to  the  surfaoej  layer  for  the  protection 
of  the  roots.  Avon. 


10 


THE     GARDEN. 


[Januaky  2,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fbuits  Undeb  Glass. 

VINES. — If  the  Grapes  have  been  out 
and  the  leaves  have  all  dropped  from 
the  Vines,  no  time  should  be  lost  in 
getting  them  pruned,  as  all  Vines 
ought  to  be  pruned  a  month  or  so 
before  starting  them  into  growth,  so 
that  the  wounds  may  get  well  dried  and  hardened. 
Prune  to  a  good  plump  bud,  making  a  clean  cut 
a  trifle  slanting,  using  a  very  keen-edged  knife 
for  the  work.  See  that  the  glass  and  woodwork 
is  thoroughly  cleansed,  especially  if  the  Vines 
have  been  infested  with  insects ;  for  thi.s  work 
rather  strong  soapsuds  are  as  good  as  anything 
to  use.  If  the  Vines  have  been  fairly  free  from 
insects,  only  remove  a  little  of  the  loose  bark  and 
give  the  rods  a  good  dressing  with  Gishurst 
Compound  and  a  handful  of  sulphur  added  ;  but 
where  mealy  bug  is  present,  the  rods  must  be 
scraped  more  severely  and  washed  a  couple  of 
times  before  receiving  a  good  painting  with  a 
mixture  of  clay,  soot,  Tobacco  water  and  Gishurst 
Compound.  All  insecticides  should  be  used  with 
care  and  no  stronger  than  is  necessary  for  killing 
the  insects.  After  the  Vines  have  been  thoroughly 
put  in  order,  remove  a  portion  of  the  top  soil  and 
top-dress  with  bone-meal,  loam,  wood  ashes,  ifec. 
Vines  which  are  to  be  started  at  once  should  be 
syringed  two  or  three  times  daily  with  tepid 
water.  Keep  the  house  close  and  at  a  tem- 
perature of  50*  by  night,  with  a  rise  of  5°  by 
day  and  a  little  higher  if  mild. 

Peaches. — January  is  a  most  favourable  time 
to  start  these  into  growth  for  supplying  fruits  in 
succession  to  those  in  pots.  The  trees  should  be 
very  carefully  pruned  and  the  houses  made  clean 
before  closing  them.  Do  not  overcrowd  the 
shoots,  but  allow  ample  room  for  the  full 
development  of  foliage  and  the  new  growths.  A 
temperature  of  45°  is  ample  for  a  scart,  with  a 
rise  of  5°  more  in  about  ten  days.  All  houses 
should  be  more  or  less  regulated  according  to 
the  outside  temperature,  a  few  degrees  higher  in 
mild  weather  being  advisable. 

Tomatoes.  — Seed  may  no w  be  sown  of  any  good 
dependable  variety.  Sow  in  well-drained  pots 
(not  too  large)  or  pans,  place  them  in  a  warm 
house  and  do  not  water  heavily  until  the  young 
plants  are  well  above  the  soil. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 

Gardenias.  — As  these  begin  to  show  flower  buds 
remove  the  young  growths  which  form  imme- 
diately round  each  bud.  The  flowers  will  be 
larger  and  less  likely  to  succumb.  Do  not  allow 
the  plants  to  sufifer  from  want  of  moisture  at  the 
roots.  A  little  soot  water  at  intervals  and  a 
sprinkling  of  Clay's  Fertilizer  will  greatly  assist 
growth  and  blooms.  To  keep  up  a  healthy  stock 
a  quantity  should  be  struck  annually.  If  not 
rooted  in  the  autumn,  see  that  cuttings  are  put 
in  at  once.  Use  plenty  of  sand  when  inserting 
the  cuttings. 

CVo^oiw  may  be  struck  now  or  "ringing"  the 
stems  of  healthy,  clean  plants  resorted  to.  If 
the  latter  method  be  adopted,  very  nice  plants 
are  quickly  obtained.  After  "ringing"  bind 
plenty  of  moss  round  the  stem  and  keep  it  well 
moistened  till  enough  roots  have  been  formed 
before  potting  them. 

Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine. — A   little   Clay's 
Fertilizer  well  diluted  with  tepid  water  and  given 
these  at  intervals  will  greatly  assist  the  plants 
both  in  flower  and  foliage.     At  this  season  of  the 
year  these  plants  are  most  useful,  and  should  be 
extensively  grown.     Save  the  old  plants  when 
they  have  done  flowering  for  raising  fresh  stock. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Baraet. 


FOR   THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

With  the  advent  of  the  New  Year  fresh  hopes 
and  aspirations  seem  to  come  as  a  matter  of 
course.  Seed  catalogues  arriving  in  quick 
succession  have  a  stimulating  effect  to  this  end, 
and  in  connexion  with  these  profitable  use  can 
be  made  of  time  in  the  long  evenings  by  careful 
perusal  of  the  pages  of  a  selection  of  these,  as 
well  as  of  the  notes  taken  upon  crops  during 
the  past  year,  and  the  making  out  of  new  orders 
for  the  ensuing  year  accordingly.  As  in  previous 
years,  novelties  hold  a  prominent  place,  some  of 
which  undoubtedly  are  improvements  upon 
existing  sorts  ;  but  while  giving  any  particular 
new-comer  thus  recommended  a  trial,  whether  it 
be  a  flower  or  vegetable,  it  will  be  found  a  safe 
rule  to  place  the  greater  dependence  for  a  supply 
upon  well-tried  though  older  varieties. 

An  illustration  may  be  given  by  quoting  the 
now  deservedly  popular  flower,  the  Sweet  Pea. 
So  many  varieties  of  this  genus  now  exist  that  it 
is  quite  possible  for  the  cultivator,  who  has  been 
at  much  trouble  and  expense  to  grow  the  best, 
to  discover  in  the  flowering  season  that  several 
are  so  near  alike  in  form  and  colour  that  the  oft- 
quoted  maxim,  "  differ  in  name  only,''  is  strictly 
applicable.  In  this  particular  instance  the 
recommendation  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea 
Society  as  to  the  best  varieties  to  cultivate  in 
all  the  more  distinct  colours  and  the  appended 
list  of  too-much-alike  varieties  is  worthy  of 
perusal  by  all  enthusiasts.  This  may  be  found 
in  a  back  number  of  The  Garden,  page  459, 
September  19,  1908. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 

Growth  being  now  at  its  lowest  ebb,  great  care 
should  be  taken  in  the  use  of  the  watering-can, 
for  although  plants  in  growth  must  not  be 
allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of  moisture,  an  excess 
of  the  same  at  this  time  leaves  nearly  as  bad 
results.  Manurial  stimulants  may  be  necessary 
for  plants  advancing  to  bloom,  such  as  Primulas, 
Cinerarias  and  Callas,  but  the  applications  should 
be  weak  and  given  rather  as  secondary  doses  after 
soil  has  been  well  moistened  with  clear  water. 

Beuo^iia  Gloire  de  Lorraine. — Plants  of  this 
and  its  several  pink  and  white  counterparts  that 
are  passing  out  of  flower  may  have  the  rough 
growths  removed  and,  after  cleaning  and  re- 
plenishing the  surface  soil,  be  placed  in  a  position 
near  the  glass  in  a  temperature  of  about  55°,  with 
the  object  of  their  resting  and  the  ultimate 
production  of  cuttings  for  early  propagation. 
Obtaining  cuttings  is  the  chief  difficulty  connected 
with  the  culture  of  these  superb  autumn  and 
winter  flowers,  for  if  cut  hard  back  or  over- 
watered  immediately  afterwards,  the  possibilities 
are  that  death  slowly  but  surely  ensues. 
Fruits  Under  Glass. 

Grapes  still  hanging  upon  the  Vines  would  now 
be  better,  and  keep  sound  equally  as  long,  in  the 
Grape-room,  thus  setting  free  the  house  for  late- 
flowering  Chrysanthemums  and  the  consequent 
clearance  being  made  of  others,  allowing  pruning, 
cleaning  and,  if  necessary,  painting  to  be  proceeded 
with.  The  present  is  a  favourable  time  to  start 
early  and  midseason  Vines  into  growth,  but  heat 
should  be  applied  very  slightly  at  first.  If  the 
roots  have  access  to  outside  borders,  these  should 
be  protected  with  rough  litter  or  Bracken,  and 
spare  lights  or  shutters,  if  possible,  be  placed 
over  all  to  ward  off  rain  and  snow. 
Pleasure  Grounds. 

The  collecting  of  leaves — Oak  and  Beech  are 
best — will  afford  work  for  the  outside  staff'  when 
operations  such  as  digging  upon  bare  ground  are 
impracticable.  Leaves  built  into  a  large  heap  or 
heaps  in  a  sheltered  comer  soon  generate  heat, 
and  the  placing  of  frames  thereon  offers  a  good 
opportunity  to  raise  seeds  of  various  kinds,  to 
help  on  Lettuce  plants,  and  to  force  Chicory, 
Seakale  and  Rhubarb.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Galloway  House,  Garlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit, 
tree,  shrub.  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


Begonias  from  Leeds. 

I  am  again  sending  you  a  few  sprays  of  a  seed- 
ling Begonia  for  your  table,  similar  to  the  one 
I  sent  last  year.  It  is  a  seedling  from  Begonia 
Gloire  de  Lorraine.  I  have  been  told  by  several 
growers  that  it  is  either  Masterpiece  or  The 
King  (but  this  I  do  not  agree  with,  because  it  is 
a  much  stronger  grower  and  has  more  substance  in 
the  flowers).  Again,  it  is  a  seedling,  while  the 
two  above  mentioned  are  sports.  It  also  stands 
the  fogs  better  than  its  parent.  On  December  1 
we  had  a  fog  which  was  the  worst  ever  known 
in  this  district  and  lasted  for  six  days  ;  it 
damaged  the  leaves  of  Cinerarias,  the  young 
foliage  and  undeveloped  blooms  of  Cyclamens, 
and  neither  foliage  nor  bloom  was  left  on  the 
plants  of  the  Lorraine  type  of  Begonia  at  the  end 
of  six  days,  but  this  seedling  Begonia  came 
through  without  damage  to  foliage  or  flower. 
This  in  itself  is  worth  consideration.  —  P. 
Clapham,  The  Gardens,  Broolc/eigh,  Calverley, 
Leeds. 

[The  Begonia  sent  by  our  correspondent  is  a 
vigorous  and  deep-coloured  variety  with  excel- 
lent foliage. — Ed.] 

Gbntiana  acaulis  ebom  Yorkshire. 
Mrs.  Kewley,  Oran,  Catterick,  Yorkshire, 
sent  us  on  December  16  two  flowers  of  the 
beautiful  rich  blue  Gentiana  acaulis,  which  are 
of  interest  flowering  at  the  season  named. 
Although  rather  small,  the  flowers  were  per- 
fectly formed  and  of  moderately  good  colour. 

Apples  from  Preston. 

I  send  you  herewith  four  Apples.  They 
are,  I  believe,  called  Pomeroy  (which  may  be  a 
corruption  of  Pomme  du  Roi)  and  come  off  a 
very  old  tree.  This  tree  was  blown  down  a  few 
weeks  ago.  It  was  about  42  feet  high  and  was 
a  very  good  bearer.  The  Apples  are  excellent 
keepers  and  I  think  you  will  find  them  good 
cookers.  The  great  beauty  of  the  tree,  however, 
was  the  blossom,  which  was  of  a  deep  red,  and  the 
tree  was  a  striking  object  each  spring,  equal  to 
many  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  planted  for 
their  blossom  only.  I  am  having  some  scions 
taken  for  grafting,  and  shall  be  pleased  to  send  a 
few  to  anyone  liking  to  try  it. — Walter  db  H. 
Birch,  Waif cm-le- Dale,  Preston. 

[The  Apple  sent  by  our  correspondent  is  an 
old  but  excellent  keeping  variety  named  Colville 
Malingre. — Ed.] 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Cypripedium  antinocs.  — This  is  a  very  beautiful 
addition  to  the  Lady's  Slippers,  the  flower  being 
large  and  well  formed.  The  dorsal  sepal  is  pure 
white,  with  a  vivid  green  zone  at  the  base,  the 
central  portion  being  heavily  besprinkled  with 
medium-sized,  almost  circular  carmine  dots.  The 
petals  and  labellum  are  of  the  usual  shape  and 
size,  their  colour  being  a  sort  of  yellowish  green, 
the  whole  flower  having  a  glossy,  varnished 
like  appearance.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Holford,  C.LE.,C.V.O.,  Westonbirt,  Gloucester- 
shire.    First-class  certificate. 


Januaey  2,  1909. 


THE     GAliDEN. 


11 


Calanihe  Angela. — This  is  a  lovely  new 
member  of  a  useful  winter-flowering  race  and  one 
that  is  most  welcome.  In  shape  and  size  there  is 
nothing  unusual  about  the  flowers,  but  the  colour 
is  a  beautiful  rich  scarlet-crimson,  with  just  a 
very  faint  marking  of  white  on  the  labellum. 
The  plant  shown  had  one  raceme  composed  of 
seven  fully-opened  flowers  and  three  buds. 
Shown  by  N.  C.  Cookson,  Esq. ,  Oakwood,  Wylam. 
First-class  certificate. 

Galanthe  resti/a  Norman. — This  has  rather 
larger  flowers  than  the  above-named  variety,  but 
the  colour  is  not  nearly  so  good,  being  a  very 
dull  crimson  almost  shading  to  magenta.  This 
was  also  shown  by  Mr.  Cookson  and  received  an 
award  of  merit. 

Cypripedium  datior. — This  is  a  reputed  cross 
between  C.  leeanum  and  C.  Baron  Sehriider, 
neither  of  which  it  resembles  much.  The  dorsal 
sepal  is  of  medium  size,  very  erect  and  rather 
rounded,  with  a  white  ground  except  at  the  base, 
where  there  is  a  small  green  zone,  both  white  and 
green  being  thickly  marked  with  dull  carmine 
dots  and  blotches.  The  petals  are  rather  narrow, 
much  crimped  at  the  edges  and  also  oiliate. 
The  colour  of  these  and  the  rather  small  labellum 
is  glossy  dull  carmine,  with  a  little  pale  green 
showing  through  on  the  petals.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea. 
Award  of  merit. 

Odoiiioglossum  Magali  Sander.  —  This  is  a 
curiously  coloured  Orchid  that  would  not  appeal 
to  some  tastes.  The  flowers  are  of  the  usual 
size  and  shape,  the  creamy  white  ground  being 
vary  heavily  and  regularly  marked  with 
chocolate-coloured  blotches  and  dots,  a  tinge  of 
carmine  showing  at  the  base  of  the  labellum  and 
some  yellow  in  the  throat.  The  plant  shown 
had  one  long,  pendulous  raceme  composed  of 
thirteen  opened  flowers  and  one  bud.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  Sander  and  Son,  St.  Albans.  First-class 
certificate. 

Oncidium  hicallosum  Sander's  variety. — This  is 
a  superb  form  of  a  good  Orchid,  and  fully 
deserves  the  honour  accorded  it.  The  flowers  are 
largo,  with  stiff  stems,  the  labellum  being  of  the 
brightest  possible  yellow.  The  sepals  and  petals 
are  of  the  usual  shape  and  light  brown  in  colour, 
with  narrow  pale  yellow  margins.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  Sander  and  Son,  St.  Albans.  Award  of 
merit. 

Acanthus  montanus. — This  remarkable  species 
from  West  Africa  is  of  shrubby  habit,  the  nearly 
horizontally  disposed  leaves  being  deeply  notched 
and  armed  with  long  spines.  In  the  plant  exhi- 
bited there  was  one  central  inflorescence  of  white 
flowers.  The  latter  are  sessile  and  disposed  in  a 
dense  spike,  which  rises  1  foot  or  more  above  the 
highly  attractive  and  ornamental  leafage.  In 
Nicholson's  "Dictionaryof  Gardening"  the  above- 
named  species  is  described  as  having  rose-coloured 
flowers.  Shown  by  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and 
Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea.     First-class  certificate. 

Sarcocca  rusci/olia. — An  evergreen  shrub  from 
China,  with  numerous  clusters  of  drooping  flowers 
oi^  a  greenish  white  colour.  Also  shuwn  by 
Messi-s.  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited.  Award  of 
merit. 


ANSWERS 
TO  OORRESPONDENTS. 

RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— r/^e  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  help/id  to  all  readers  who  desire 
asslMa}ice,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  ivith  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
Garden,  30,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.O.  Letters  on  busiTiess  should  be  seiit  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  -may  desire  to  be  used  m  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 


NEW  FRUIT. 
Apple  Will  Crump. — This  is  a  new  dessert 
Apple  resulting  from  a  cross  between  Cox's 
Orange  Pippin  and  Worcester  Pearmain.  Oue 
of  the  fruits  shown  very  much  resembled  the 
latter,  but  the  others  plainly  showed  traces  of 
both  parents.  The  fruits  in  size  are  about  the 
same  as  Cox's  Orange  Pippin,  but  are  rather 
more  highly  coloured.  Shown  by  Mr.  W.  Crump, 
V.M.H.,  Madresfield  Court  Gardens,  Malvern. 
Award  of  merit. 


Hotbeds. — The  making  of  hotbeds  for  forc- 
ing early  vegetables  will  now  be  general  in  gardens 
where  a  good  supply  of  Potatoes,  Peas,  Carrots 
and  Radishes  is  expected,  as  a  long,  steady 
warmth  is  what  is  needed. 


Exhibitlngr  Polyanthus   (Plural).— 

Your  chances  of  winning  in  the  competition  to 
which  you  refer  will  depend  upon  the  standard 
of  excellence  in  your  plants  on  the  day  of  the 
exhibition,  and,  of  course,  upon  the  superiority 
of  your  examples  over  those  of  other  competitors. 
Merit  in  such  a  case  should  consist  of  fairly  large 
and  well-flowered  examples,  large  trusses  and 
well-formed  flowers  of  good  substance.  Dis- 
tinct shades  of  colour  should  be  aimed  at,  and 
washy  and  much-alike  varieties  should  be 
avoided.  Thus,  if  you  could  select  those  of 
white,  crimson  or  maroon,  gold  and  cirmine 
shades,  you  would  be  presenting  four  distinct 
and  good  colour  shades  as  found  in  these  plants. 
The  flower-trusses  should  be  well  raised  above 
the  leafage,  the  plants  in  good  bloom  on  the 
show  day,  and  selected  as  near  as  possible  of 
equal  size.  If  you  possess  an  odd  frame-light, 
you  may  place  it  over  the  plants  merely  to  keep 
the  flowers  clean,  which  is  important.  If  the 
plants  are  in  good  ground,  not  much  feeding  will 
be  required,  but  soot  water  and  cow  m  mure  in 
solution  is  excellent,  and  given  with  discretion 
for  two  months  will  give  the  best  results. 
Remember  that  a  weak  stimulant  is  best,  and 
that  a  gross  plant  does  not  appeal  to  the  judges 
as  a  rule. 

Plan  for  a  bopdep  {W.  H.  F.).—A 
border  of  the  width  indicated  will  take  three 
rows  of  shrubs  across — of  course,  not  in  hard  and 
formal  lines,  but  disposed  according  to  habit  and 
fancy  of  the  planter.  For  the  back  row,  that  is 
to  say,  those  which  average  from  8  feet  to 
1'2  feet  in  height,  the  following  is  a  good 
selection :  Amelanohier  canadensis,  white, 
April ;  Buddleia  globosa,  yellow,  June ;  B. 
variabilis  veitchiana,  purple,  July  and  August ; 
Crataegus  Pyracantha,  white.  May,  and  scarlet 
berries  in  autumn  ;  Escallonia  macrantha,  crim- 
son, August  ;  Forsythia  suspensa,  yellow,  March 
and  April  ;  Hamamelis  arborea,  bronzy  gold, 
February  ;  Kerria  japonica  flore-plena,  yellow. 
May  ;  Philadelphus  grandiflorus,  white,  June 
and  July  ;  Rhus  Cotinus,  reddish,  July  and 
August ;  Robinia  hispida,  rose,  June ;  Spartium 
junceum,  yellow,  July  and  August ;  Spirsea 
discolor,  creamy  white,  June ;  S.  lindleyana, 
white,  August ;  Viburnum  Opulus  sterile,  white. 
May  ;  and  Syringa  (Lilac),  common  and  Persian. 
Of  the  common  Lilac,  especially  good  varieties 
are  alba  grandiflori,  white  ;  Charles  X.,  deep 
purplish  lilac  ;  Souvenir  de  L.  Spath,  crimson  ; 
Marie  Legraye,  white  ;  and  Kreuter,  rose,  single 
varieties  ;  and  Alphonse  Lavallee,  bluish  ;  Emile 
Lemoine,  pinkish :  La  Tour  d'Auvergne  and 
Leraoinei,  lilac  doubles.  For  the  central  row  of 
medium  height,  that  is  from  5  feet  to  8  feet,  may 
be  chosen  the  following :  Berberis  Darwinii, 
orange,  May  ;  B.  stenophylla,  golden  yellow,  May ; 
Ceanothus  Gloire  de  Versailles,  blue,  summer  ; 
C.  Albert  Pittet,  rose,  summer ;  C.  Gloire  de 
Plantieres,  light  blue,  summer  ;  Choisya  ternata, 
white,  June  ;  Cytisus  albus,  white.  May  ;  C.  sco- 
parius  and  varieties.  May  ;  Deutzia  crenata  Bore- 


plena,  white,  June  and  July :  Diervilla  (Weigela), 
in  variety,  good  ones  being  Candida,  white  ;  Abel 
Carriere,  rose,  and  Eva  Rathke,  crimson  ;  Escal- 
lonia     philippiana.     white,      June     and     July  j 
Hamamelis  mollis,  yellow,  February ;  H.   zucca,- 
riniana,  citron,   February  ;  Hibiscus  syriacus  in 
variety,     late    summer  :    Hydrangea   paniculata 
grandiflora,     creamy    white,    end    of    summer ; 
Hypericum  hookerianum,  yellow,  August;  Rhodo- 
typos   kerrioides,    white,    June  ;  Ribes   aureum, 
yellow,  April ;  R.  sanguineura  (Flowering  Currant) 
in  variety,  April  ;  Spirsea  arguta,  white,  April  ; 
S.  bracteata,  white.  May  and  June  ;  S.  Douglassi, 
deep  rose,  August  ;    S.  japonica,  rosy  red,  .July  ; 
S.     prunifolia     flore-plena,    white,      April     and 
May  ;  and   S.  canescens,  white,  .July  ;  Tamarix 
Pdllassii       rosea,     piak,     August :       Viburnum 
Tinus      (Laurustinus),      white,      winter  ;       and 
V.     plicatum,    white,    May    and     June.       The 
front    row  may  consist  of  shrubs    of    a  maxi- 
mum   height   of    4   feet    or  thereabouts,    viz.  : 
Berberis  Aquifolium,  yellow,   spring  ;   B.    Thun- 
bergii,    pale    yellow,    spring ;     B.    wallichiana, 
sulphur,  summer  ;  Ceanothus  americanus,  white, 
June  and  July  ;   Cotoneaster  horizontalis,   pink, 
May  ;  C.  microphylla,  whitish.  May  ;  C.  rotundi- 
folia,      scarlet     berries     in     autumn  ;     Cydonia 
japonica,    early   spring,   many   varieties,   among 
them    being    alba,    white ;    Moerloesii,    scarlet ; 
rosea,  pink  ;    and   superba,   deep  red  ;    Cydonia 
Miulei,   salmon,    spring ;     C.     iVIaulei    superba, 
deep  red,  spring ;    Cytisus   purpureus,  purplish, 
May ;     C.     nigricans,     yellow,     July  ;      Daphne 
Mezereum,     pink     and     white,     early     spring ; 
Genista    hispaniea,    yellow,    April    and    May ; 
G.     tinctoria     flore-plena,     yellow.     May     and 
June  ;  Hypericum  moserianum,  yellow,  August  ; 
Kerria  jap  mica  (typical  form),  yellow,  summer  ; 
Lavendula  spica  (Lavender),  summer  ;  Magnolia 
stellata,    white,  April ;    Philadelphus  Lemoinei, 
white,    June    and    July  ;     P.    Boule    d'Argent, 
dpuble  white  ;   P.    Manteau  d'Hermine,  double 
white  ;  P.   Avalanche,  white  ;  and  P.  purpureo- 
maculatus,     white,     with    purple     blotch.      All 
of     these     flower    at    the     same     time    as     P. 
Lemoinei.       Rubus     deliciosus,      white.      May  ; 
Spir;ea  Anthony  Waterer,  crimson  ;  S.  Bumalda, 
pink  ;   and  S.  callosa  albi,   white,   all  of  which 
flower  in  July  and  August.     If  preferred,  a  few 
low-growing  trees,    such   as   Almonds,  Peaches, 
Cherries,     Pyrus,     Laburnum,     the    variegated 
Negundo   and   the   purple-leaved   Plum  may  be 
associated  with  the  shrubs  in  order  to  break  up 
any  appearance  of  formality. 

Rock  g^apden  that  needs  no 
attention  ( Teufel).  —  What  you  might 
presently  accomplish  in  a  hilly  district  of  the 
extent  of  that  to  which  you  refer  would,  of 
course,  depend  not  a  little  upon  ways  and  means, 
and  a  rock  garden  on  an  extensive  scale  furnished 
with  the  more  rugged  subjects  would  be  novel 
and  interesting.  But  without  shelter  of  any 
kind  your  chances  for  any  great  success  would 
be  distinctly  limited,  and  we  can  hardly  suggest 
to  what  extent  success  might  be  assured  with- 
out knowing  more  of  the  circumstances.  For 
example,  you  might  plant  bulbous  plants  on  a 
large  scale  with  Yuccas,  rook  shrubs  and  the 
like  with  every  hope  of  success  for  several  years 
to  come  ;  but  the  ' '  rock  garden  that  need  never 
be  attended  to  after  it  is  once  finished  "  would 
quickly  become  a  wilderness  of  coarse  herbage. 
The  Tamarisk  and  Magnolia  would  possibly 
succeed,  but  the  latter  would  require  a  fair 
amount  of  soil  to  grow  in.  We  do  not  think  the 
Mimosa  or  Palm  would  have  the  least  chiince  of 
success.  We  take  it  there  is  water  at  band  or 
near,  and  if  so  it  would  be  of  material  assistance  in 
the  case.  We  do  not,  however,  gather  from  your 
letter  either  the  nature  of  the  rook,  the  amount 
ef  soil  available  for  planting  or  the  position,  i.e., 
aspect  of  the  ground  to  which  you  refer.  In  all 
the  circumstances  it  would  be  much  the  best  for 
a  specialist  to  confer  with  you  on  the  spot. 

Plan  for  herbaceous  bopder(Pr. 

J.    Haughton). — The    better    plan     will    be     to 
arrange  the  plants  in  three  lines,  the  latter  to 


12 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[January  2,  1909. 


be  formed  of  irregular  groups  of  the  more  oon- 
spiouous  subjects.  For  example,  the  back  row 
might  be  composed  of  single  and  double  perennial 
Sunflowers,  Pyrethrum  uliginosum,  Hollyhocks, 
Kniphofias,  tall  Michaelmas  Daisies  in  variety 
and  not  more  than  three  groups  of  the  Rambler 
Roses.  These,  with  Larkspurs  in  good  distinct 
shades,  would  be  very  effective.  In  the  second 
line  of  groups,  red  and  white  Japanese  Anemones, 
Heliopsis  scabra,  red  and  white  Phloxes  in 
variety,  Miohael?aas  Daisies  of  sorts,  such  Lilies 
as  testaceum,  chalcedonicum,  candidum,  Han- 
soni  and  tigrinum  in  variety,  white  and  blue 
Lupines,  Pa8ony  sinensis,  Iris  aurea,  I.  Monnieri, 
Anohusa  italica  (Dropmore  variety)  and  others, 
and  in  the  front  row  Flag  Irises  of  three  or  more 
sorts,  single  and  double  Pyrethrums,  Aster 
Amellus,  A.  acris,  A.  lajvigatus,  P.-eony  Double 
Crimson,  Gaillardias,  Columbines,  dwarf  Phloxes, 
Clove  Carnations,  Campanulas  of  sorts,  Sedum 
speetabile,  Megaseas,  Lychnis  Visearia  rubra 
plena,  Achillea  alpina  and  others.  If  dwarfer 
things  are  needed,  the  Hepaticas,  Pinks,  Aubrie- 
tias,  double  white  Arabis  and  Alyssum  will  assist, 
but  these  are  early  flowering. 

Infopmatlon  about  Polygronums  (J.  //.  ir. 

T/«">'rt.sj.— Polygonum  compactum  and  P.  sericeum  are 
distinct  species  ;  the  former  is  a  Japanese  plant  and  the 
la  ter  is  from  Siberia.  P.  sericeum  is  not  of  great  decora- 
tive value.  It  glows  to  a  height  of  from  1  foot  to  li  feet 
and  has  silky  leaves. 

Chpysanthemum  leaves  diseased  (.1.  £.). 
The  leaves  of  the  Chrysanthemum  are  attacked  by  one 
of  the  mites  allied  to  the  one  that  produces  big-bud  in 
Black  Currants  and  to  the  one  that  causes  blisters  on 
Pear  leaves,  but  not  identical  with  either.  It  would  be 
well  to  spray  the  plants  with  paraffin  emulsion,  trying 
what  strength  they  will  stand  before  spraying  all  of  them. 

Cuttlngr  Pampas  Gpass  (M.  Pamj  Okeden).— 
The  plumes  should  be  selected  prior  to  the  seeds  becoming 
ripe,  or  allowed  to  remain  till  fully  ripe  and  the  seeds 
threshed  out.  >Ve  believe  also  that  the  plumes  are  then 
bleached  and  dried,  but  we  are  not  aware  of  the  actual 
process.  There  is  a  considerable  difference,  too,  in  the 
varieties  of  this  Grass,  the  erect  plumes  being  the  most 
ornamental. 

Belladonna  Lilies  not  flovtreplnir  i-^-  ^.  J^-). 
There  is  no  doubt  that  the  failure  of  your  Belladonna 
Lilies  to  flower  in  a  satisfactory  manner  was  caused  by 
keeping  them  absolutely  dry  when  dormant  Planted  out 
in  a  narrow  border  close  to  a  hothouse  they  are  never 
subjected  to  this  parching  process  yet  at  Kew  and  other 
places  that  we  have  visited  they  are  flowering  magnifi- 
cently under  these  conditions.  Another  season  by  all 
means  give  the  pots  the  bentht  of  the  full  sunshine,  but 
give  sutticient  water  to  keep  the  soil  moist  You  state 
that  the  roots  are  rather  potbound,  but  evt-n  if  such  is 
the  case  pots  of  the  size  mentioned  are  quite  large  enough 
for  three  bulbs. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Roses  for  Southgrate  (A.  w.  Field).— 
You  could  not  select  more  beautiful  Roses  than 
Florence  Pemberton,  Antoine  Rivoire,  Dean 
Hole,  Anna  OUivier  and  Hugh  Dickson.  Instead 
of  Mrs.  S.  Treseder  we  advise  you  to  delete  from 
your  second  list  the  variety  Mme.  Edmi^e  Metz. 

Old-fashioned  Climbingr  Rose  {E. 

A.  C). — Probably  the  Rose  you  are  looking  for 
is  the  Blush  Boursault.  We  thought  at  first 
it  might  be  Blairii  No.  2,  but  this  does  not  curl 
back  as  you  mention.  There  used  to  be  several 
Boursault  Roses  grown,  but  they  have  now  dis- 
appeared. 

Tupkischepon  Mutabilis  {Ladt/ 
M.  G.). — We  have  not  heard  of  the  Rose  you 
mention  either  under  the  above  name  or  "  Rose 
de  Baveno."  There  was  a  Tea  Rose  introduced 
in  1889  under  the  name  of  Mutabilis,  which  is 
described  as  yellow  and  gold,  and  there  was  also 
a  variety  of  the  same  name  among  the  Noisettes 
some  years  ago.  We  fear  you  will  not  find  the 
Rose  offered  by  any  nurseryman  excepting  it  be 
some  Italian  firm.  You  might  try  Rovelli  of 
Pallanza,  or  Buonfigluroli,  Gaeton  and  Figrio,  of 
Bologna.  Your  best  plan  would  be  to  secure 
some  buds  next  season  and  let  your  gardener 
insert  them  in  the  young  growths  of  a  Gloire  de 
Dijon  or  a  Banksian  Rose,  or  upon  any  other 
that  has  some  nice  young  growths.  From  your 
description  it  must  be  a  Rose  of  great  beauty,  and 
being  single  would  be  full  of  charm.     Evidently 


it  belongs  to  the  Tea-scented  group,  flowering  as 
it  does  as  late  as  October  in  Italy. 
Dpied  blood  fop  manure  (M.  E.  B.)— 

You  can  obtain  this  article  from  Messrs.  Clay 
and  yon,  Stratford,  Essex.  We  appreciate  your 
kind  remarks  relative  to  our  articles  upon  the 
newer  Roses.  We  always  endeavour  to  keep  our 
readers  informed  of  the  good  things  introduced 
as  early  as  possible. 

Roses   fop   shady   position   (E.  S. 

Martin). — You  would  find  the  little  Scotch  Roses 
very  good  for  your  purpose  ;  but  perhaps  you 
would  like  something  of  better  quality.  In  this 
case  we  name  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  Conrad  F. 
Meyer,  Blanc  Double  de  Coubert,  Mrs.  Anthony 
Waterer,  Armosa,  Griiss  an  Teplitz,  CJlrich 
Brunner  and  Mme.  Laurette  Messimy. 

Tea  Roses  of  grood  shape  (Postum).— 

As  you  are  desirous  of  obtaining  varieties  having 
good-shaped  and  full  flowers  we  think  you  cannot 
do  better  than  add  Mme.  Constant  Soupert, 
Kiinigin  Wilhelmina,  Mme.  Gamon,  Maman 
Coehet,  Boadieea  and  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy. 
These  are  not  all  of  the  colour  you  desire,  but 
they  are  the  best  we  can  advise  that  possess 
quality  of  bloom,  vigour,  and  that  are  fairly 
reliable.  Many  Tea  Roses  are  much  influenced 
by  the  seasons  There  are  some,  such  as  Sappho, 
Empress  Alexandra  of  Russia,  Souvenir  d'Elise 
Vardon,  Jeanny  Proudfoot,  &c. ,  that  have  splen- 
did flowers  in  a  good  hot  season,  especially  when 
grown  at  the  foot  of  a  wall  or  upon  standards. 
If  you  desire  some  good  apricot  and  salmon 
shades  with  quality  of  flowers,  you  should  select 
from  the  Hybrid  Teas  such  sorts  as  Joseph  Hill, 
Paul  Lede,  Earl  of  Wirwiek,  Dean  Hole  and 
Prince  de  Bulgarie. 

GPafting:  Roses  in  pots  (Crendonian). 
In  order  to  be  successful  with  either  ordinary 
wedge-grafting  or  bud-grafting  one  must  be  able 
to  give  a  good  bottom-heat  to  the  Briars  after 
they  are  grafted.  This  you  would  be  unable  to 
do  in  a  frame.  The  temperature  should  be 
maintained  to  about  70°  or  75°.  To  do  bud- 
grafting  the  "stock"  or  Briar  must  be  in  a 
growing  state,  the  sap  being  then  flowing  freely. 
The  top  of  the  Briar  is  cut  off  just  below  the 
branches.  A  out  is  made  in  the  rind  or  bark 
about  half  an  inch  in  length.  A  small  piece  of 
wood  or  the  bone  end  of  a  budding-knife  is  then 
pushed  down  this  cut,  which  forces  the  bark 
open,  and  the  bud-graft  is  forced  into  the 
aperture  made.  A  bud-graft  is  simply  cutting 
off  a  piece  of  wood  containing  one  eye  or  bud, 
and  beneath  the  bud  the  wood  is  cut  wedge 
shaped.  It  is  then  ready  for  insertion  into  the 
rind  of  the  stock,  and  is  bound  up  tightly  with 
raffia.  If  you  are  anxious  to  propagate  new 
Roses  quickly,  you  can  also  do  this  by  budding 
outdoors  early  in  May.  To  do  this  you  would 
need  to  procure  plants  that  had  been  grown  in 
heat  and  that  carried  ripe  buds.  This  practice 
is  often  adopted,  and  if  it  is  a  good  season  the 
buds  start  out  and  make  nice  little  plants  by 
the  fall.  After  the  buds  have  been  inserted 
about  three  weeks  the  tops  are  cut  off  close  to 
the  bud.  The  Briar  stock  is  not  suitable  to  the 
Crimson  Rambler  race.  They  should  either  be 
struck  from  cuttings  or  budded  on  Manetti. 
Some  good  climbers,  chiefly  crimson,  for  a 
southern  aspect  would  be  Fran9ois  Crousse, 
Noella  Nabonnand,  Dr.  Rouges,  Waltham 
Climber  No.  1,  M.  Desir,  Climbing  Liberty, 
Climbing  Papa  Gontier,  Sarah  Bernhardt  and 
Ards  Rover.  Of  other  colours  we  can  recom- 
mend Duchesse  d'Auersttedt,  Mme.  H.  Leuilliot, 
Mme.  Choutet,  Climbing  K.  A.  Victoria,  Mme. 
A.  Carriere,  Mme.  Jules  Siegfried,  Lady  Water 
low,  Cr^puscule,  Climbing  Caroline  Testout  and 
Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux.  We  cannot  say  that 
Climbing  Cramoisie  Superieure  would  be  so  free 
in  flowering  as  Griiss  an  Teplitz.  If  you  planted 
some  of  the  dwarf  Chinas  on  your  wall  between 
the  stronger  growers,  you  would  obtain  a  better 
display.  Such  sorts  as  Fabvier,  Old  Crimson 
China  and  Charlotte  Klemm,  and  some  of  the  red 


Teas,  such  as  Corallina,  Warrior  and  Betty 
Berkeley  are  splendid  on  walls  and  will  soon 
cover  a  height  of  6  feet  to  7  feet.  Mme. 
Chauvry  is  one  of  the  lovelist  of  apricot  Roses. 
Golden  Queen  is  not  very  free  in  flowering  until 
well  established.  It  is  a  Rose  of  the  Reve  d'Or 
tribe,  and  both  are  grand  for  lofty  walls,  where 
they  can  ramble  away  unpruned  for  three  or 
four  years.  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg  is  a 
good  Rose,  but  Fran9ois  Crousse  is  much  better. 

Roses  fop  button-holes  (E.  W.  Roberts).— We 
are  not  suprised  that  you  admire  Lady  Battersea  as  a 
button-hole  flower,  for  there  is  none  better.  The 
following  half-dozen  would,  we  think,  please  you,  and 
they  possess  long  buds:  Mme.  Pierre  Coehet,  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay,  Gustave  Regis,  Betty,  Lady  Roberts  and 
Pharisaer.  The  following  are  useful  surts  to  grow  where 
beauty  of  bud  is  desired :  Irish  Elegance,  Rosette  de  la 
Legion  d'Honneur,  Warrior,  Sulphurea,  Mme.  Antoine 
Alari,  Mme.  Falcot,  Mme.  Paul  Varin-Bernier,  Meta, 
Souvenir  of  Stella  Gray,  Hugo  Roller,  Niphetos,  Comtesse 
de  Cayla,  Anna  Ollivier,  Aurore,  Cr6puscule  and  Mme. 
Hoste. 

Scaplet  Roses  fop  masslngr  (if.  Mil^soh).— 
This  is  a  colour  we  are  at  present  very  deficient  in,  at 
least,  as  regards  Roses  for  massing.  Some  of  the  China 
or  Monthly  Roses  make  a  fine  mass  of  colour,  especially 
Fabvier  and  the  new  Charlotte  Klemm.  Among  the  Teas  and 
Hybrid  Teas  you  could  not  do  better  than  plant  Liberty, 
Richmond,  Griiss  an  Sangerhausen,  Ecarlate,  Princesse  de 
Sagan  and  Marquise  de  Salisbury,  and  for  climbing  Hugh 
Dickson,  Griiss  an  Teplitz  and  Francois  Crousse.  Ten 
good  orange-coloured  Roses  for  bedding  are  Mme.  Ravary, 
L9  Progres,  Paul  Ledi,  Edu  Meyer,  Lady  Roberts,  Insti- 
tuteur  Sirdey,  Marquise  de  Sinety,  Perle  des  Jaunes, 
Mme.  Paul  Varin-Bemier  and  .Tenny  Gillemot. 

Roses  nrlth  epect  blooms  (Ru/unX—Ihe  Rosea 
you  name  have  good  stiff  stalks,  but  we  cannot  say  they 
quite  compare  with  .\otoine  Rivoire  in  this  respect,  for  it 
is  one  of  the  best  that  possess  this  valuable  trait. 
Frederick  Harms  is  a  very  lovely  Rose,  and  we  wonder  it 
is  not  more  often  grown.  Amateur  Teyssier  Is  fine,  with 
a  slight  inclmation  to  droop  as  its  large  flowers  develop. 
Mrs.  David  McKee  is  good,  but  its  blooms  are  not  speci- 
ally solid.  If  you  grow  this  Rose,  we  do  not  think  you 
would  require  Grossherzogin  Alexandra.  Perle  von 
Godesberg  is  scarcely  distinct  enough  from  Kaiserin 
Augusta  Victoria.  Reine  Marguerite  d'ltaly  is  rather 
dull  in  colour  and  a  Rose  wanting  in  form,  althougii  very 
free  flowering  and  deliciously  sweet.  There  is  nothing 
special  about  Mme.  Philippe  Rivoire.  If  you  do  not 
possess  them,  you  should  certainly  add  to  your  collection 
Elizabeth  Barnes,  Earl  of  Warwick,  Pharisaer,  Gustav 
Griinerwald  (this  especially  for  October  flowering), 
Joseph  Hill,  Lady  Ashtown,  ilme.  Maurice  de  Luze 
Mme  Eugenie  Boullet,  Mme.  Segoud- Weber,  Paul  Lede 
and  Yvonne  Vacherot. 

Tpansplanting'  budded  Bplaps  (A.  A.).— It 
would  be  a  mistake  to  disturb  your  budded  Briars,  for 
they  will  make  much  finer  plants  if  allowed  to  remain 
where  they  are.  If  you  were  certain  of  being  compelled 
to  move  from  your  present  residence  and  bad  another 
place  in  view,  the  best  plan  would  be  to  transplant  them 
to  the  new  garden  at  once.  Even  by  so  doing  they  receive 
a  check.  There  is  no  need  to  coddle  these  budded  Briars. 
If  we  have  a  very  severe  winter,  you  could  tie  several  of 
the  stems  together  by  crossing  one  to  the  other  :  then 
scatter  some  hay  or  Bracken  Fern  over  the  branches  so 
that  the  snow  may  lodge  thereon  and  thus  shield  the 
buds.  If  the  plants  are  fairly  free  from  insect  pests, 
budding  cotton  could  be  tied  over  the  buds  until  danger 
from  winter  frost  has  passed  away.  If  you  really  must 
dig  the  Briars  up,  then  lop  off  the  branches  as  suggested 
and  heel  the  roots  in  a  trench  under  a  north  wall  or  fence. 
Let  the  Briars  lean  towards  the  wall.  A  few  boards  could 
be  placed  over  them  by  leaning  these  against  the  wall, 
and  we  think  you  would  find  the  buds  come  out  of  the 
ordeal  unharmed. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 
Name  of,  and  infopmatlon  about, 

an  QPChld  {W.  K.  p.).— The  name  of  the 
Orchid  enclosed  is  Oncidium  incurvum,  a  pretty 
little  free-flowering  species,  native  of  Mexico. 
It  may  either  be  grown  in  the  cool  Orchid  house, 
or  in  one  kept  at  a  rather  higher  temperature. 
It  grows  well  in  a  mixture  of  peat  and  sphagnum, 
the  pots,  of  course,  being  well  drained.  Like 
many  of  the  cool-house  Orchids,  it  is  evergreen 
in  character,  and  at  no  time  must  it  be  dried  off 
in  any  way.  Of  course,  less  water  will  be 
required  in  the  winter  than  in  the  summer,  but 
the  soil  must  be  kept  moist  at  all  seasons.  If 
repotting  is  needed  it  is  best  carried  out  in  the 
months  of  February  or  March,  as  the  roots  being 
then  active,  they  soon  take  possession  of  the  new 
compost.  Throughout  the  winter  the  structure 
in  which  this  Oncidium  is  kept  should  not,  even 
on  the  coldest  nights,  be  allowed  to  fall  below 
45°.  During  the  summer  the  temperature  of  the 
outside  air  is  warm  enough. 


SUTTON'S 
INTERMEDIATE  ANTIRRHINUMS 

PINK,  CARMINE  PINK 
AND    ORANGE    KING. 


Hu-.hon  &  Keanis,  Ltd.,  Printers,  London,  S.E- 


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GARDEN. 


-^^=^ 


No    1938. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


January  9,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


The  CuLTtTRE  OF  Plums 

Under  Glass    . .     . .    13 
Fairy  rings  in  lawns     . .     13 

N'^TES   OP  THE   WEEK 

Sutton's  Garden  Diary 
for  1909      14 

The  Poisons  and 
Pharmacy  Bill        . .     14 

Plants  in  flower  on 
Christmas  Day       . .     14 

€  >RRBSPONDBNOE 

Perpetual  -  flowering 
Carnations    as    gar- 
den plants        . .     . .     14 
Prizes  for  Keaders..     ..     14 
Shrubs     in    spring 

bedding 15 

Fruit  Garden 
Gage     Plum     Dennis- 
ton's  Superb    . .     . .     16 

Fruit  notes 16 

Flower  Garden 
A     rock     garden     in 

Lincoln      17 

TheScillas 17 

The  Crimean  Snow- 
drop     18 

Rose  Garden 
The   classification    of 
perpetual  -  flowering 

Roses IS 

Rose  Mark  Twain      . .     19 


Rose  Garden 
A      yellow  -  flowered 
Monthly  Rose       ..    19 

Trees  and  Shrubs 
A  seedling  Rhododen- 
dron         19 

The  Wistaria      . .     . .     19 
A  beautiful    autumn- 
flowering  tree..     ..     19 
Cotoneaster    rotundi- 
folia 19 

Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 20 

Propagation  of  Chry- 
santhemums    by 

cuttings     -20 

The    treatment    of 

window  plants       , .  21 

How  to  prune  Vines . .  21 

The  Town  Garden    ..  21 

Gardening  of  the  Week 

For  the    South   and 

South  Midlands      . .  22 

For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands     ..  22 

Answers     to     Corre- 

sfondentb 

Flower  garden    . .     . .  22 

Fruit  garden       . .     . .  23 

Trees  and  shrubs       , .  23 

Kitchen  garden  . .     . .  24 


ILXiUSTRATIONS. 

Oage  Plum  Denniston's  Superb 15 

A  corner  of  a  rock  garden  in  Lincoln 17 

Rhododendron  White  Lady  grown  from  seed 13 

A  pergola  covered  with  Wistaria  in  a  Cornish  garden       19 
Propagation  of  Chrysanthemums  by  cuttings        . .      20,  21 


EDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
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relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  loish  advice  from 
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Offices:  20,  Tavistock  Street,  C&vent  Ga/rden,  W.C, 


THE    CULTURE    OF  PLUMS 
UNDER    GLASS. 

THE  Plum  of  late  years  has  received 
more  attention  than  formerly,  as  these 
fruits,  when  afforded  glass  culture, 
give  such  splendid  results.  I  am 
aware  amateurs  who  have  only  a 
limited  amount  of  room  at  their  disposal  do  not 
often  grow  the  Plum  in  this  way,  but  the  results 
secured  are  excellent,  and  the  fruits  grown  thus 
are  really  superb  if  a  good  number  of  the  Gage 
section  are  chosen.  A  small  house  can  be 
made  suitable  for  a  number  of  trees,  as  by  having 
three  lots  a  succession  is  maintained  for  a  con- 
siderable period. 

My  remarks  now  more  concern  what  I  may 
term  permanent  trees,  that  is,  those  planted  out, 
and  once  the  trees  are  in  a  fruiting  state  they 
give  very  little  trouble,  but  in  all  cases  they 
should  get  an  airy  or  well-ventilated  house.  In 
the  South  of  England,  near  the  coast,  I  once  had 
a  house  of  these  fruits.  This  was  a  lean-to  on  a 
north  wall,  an  old-fashioned  structure,  the  sashes 
of  which  could  be  removed  from  the  roof,  and 
the  trees  only  had  a  narrow  border  3  feet  to  4  feet 
wide ;  but  here  we  got  grand  crops,  and  we  used 
at  certain  periods  to  flood  the  border  and 
mulch  when  in  full  bearing  with  partially  de- 
cayed manure  to  help  the  surface  roots  and 
retain  the  moisture  given. 

I  do  not  advise  growing  the  Plum,  even  under 
glass,  as  a  cordon,  as  the  trees  do  best  with  exten- 
sion ;  they  must  be  planted  so  that  root-pruning 
can  be  done  readily,  as  they  require  it  more 
frequently  than  other  trees.  Another  point,  and 
an  important  one,  is  that  the  soil  when  planting 
must  not  be  too  light  or  porous,  a  good  holding 
loam  being  best,  and  with  it  should  be  mixed  a 
liberal  quantity  of  old  fine  mortar  rubble  or 
wood  ashes.  Avoid  raw  manures  of  any  kind, 
as  these  are  best  when  given  later  on  the  surface. 
The  trees  do  well  in  any  position.  I  have  grown 
them  on  back  walls  when  not  shaded  by  other 
trees,  but  there  must  be  abundant  ventilation, 
and  if  a  house  is  devoted  to  these  fruits  it  is  an 
easy  matter  to  give  plenty  at  the  season  required. 
We  must  now  consider  planting  and  varieties. 
Planting  should  be  done  as  early  in  the  season  as 
possible,  though  I  have  had  excellent  growth  the 
first  year  by  late  planting.  A  deep  border  is  not 
necessary  ;  the  trees  I  have  referred  to  above 
only  had  2  feet  of  soil  over  the  drainage.  Each 
tree  should  be  made  quite  firm,  and  the  soil  must 
be  in  a  workable  state  and  placed  under  cover  in 
advance  if  new  borders  are  made.  The  Gages 
come  first  owing  to  their  superior  quality,  and 
these  planted  to  form  a  succession,  from  Oullin's 
Early  Gage  to  Golden  Transparent,  will  give  ripe 


fruits  in  the  same  house  from  early  August  to 
October  if  not  forced  in  any  way,  and  the  fruits 
will  hang  a  considerable  time  and  become  perfect 
sweetmeats.  I  have  had  Coe's  Golden  Drop 
from  trees  under  glass  in  a  cool  house  of  splendid 
quality  for  autumn  dessert.  This  Plum  keeps 
well  when  quite  ripe,  so  that  it  should  be  grown 
for  that  purpose.  The  Early  Transparent  Gage 
is  excellent  for  glass  culture ;  it  is  one  of  the 
richest  of  the  Gage  section,  a  huge  fruit,  greenish 
yellow  with  crimson  markings,  firm  flesh  and 
juicy.  I  have  named  Oullin's  Golden  Gage, 
which  is  also  a  large,  oval,  bright  yellow  fruit 
and  very  early.  Denniston's  Superb  is  like- 
wise a  delicious  Gage,  and  nearly  a  fortnight 
earlier  than  the  Old  Green  Gage.  Bryanston 
Gage,  a  large,  round,  green,  midseason  fruit, 
blotched  with  red,  is  juiey  and  excellent. 
Jefferson,  an  American  Gage  of  splendid  quality, 
must  find  a  place,  as  this  is  a  splendid  cropper 
under  glass  and  is  a  large  yellow  fruit.  I  have 
previously  noted  the  value  of  the  Late  Trans- 
parent Gage,  which  is  one  of  the  best  late 
Gages.  Reine  Claude  de  Bavay  is  also  late. 
Of  other  varieties,  Kirke's  is  a  splendid  blue 
Plum  and  excellent  with  glass  culture.  Golden 
Esperen,  a  rich,  early  September  fruit,  is  worth 
room.  G.  Wythbs. 


FAIRY    RINGS    IN    LAWNS. 

[/«  reply  to  several  Correspmidents.'] 

It  always  seems  to  me  that  to  call  the  curious 
circular  marks  on  lawns  and  pasture-fields  fairy 
rings  is  quite  a  misnomer,  for  who  could  imagine 
that  such  delicate  creatures  as  we  have  been  taught 
fairies  are  could  possibly  be  the  cause  of  the  bare 
or  particularly  thick  grass  circles  so  often  found 
on  short  grass,  however  nimbly  and  constantly 
they  may  have  danced  on  the  same  circle ;  but  in 
old  days  they  may  have  known  more  about  these 
elfish  creatures  and  their  ways  than  we  do  in  these 
rationalistic  times.  Anyhow,  we  attribute  these 
rings  to  the  fungi  or  'Toadstools  which  we  find 
growing  on  them.  Not  that  the  Toadstools  are 
the  cause,  for  they  are  merely  the  spore-bearing 
part  of  the  fungus  ;  but  it  is  the  spawn  which  is 
the  real  plant  and  it  is  continually  extending 
itself  into  fresh  soil,  so  the  ring,  year  by  year, 
becomes  larger. 

The  reason  that  the  grass  forming  the  rings  is 
so  thick  and  dark-coloured  is  that  the  dead 
remains  of  the  previous  year's  growth  of  the 
fungus  form  a  highly  nitrogenous  manure  ;  and 
the  rankness  of  this  grass,  which  is  generally 
avoided  by  sheep  and  cattle,  was  recognised  by 
that  keen  and  accurate  observer  of  Nature, 
Shakespeare,  for  he  writes  :  "  The  nimble  elves. 
Which  do  by  moonshine  green,  sour  ringlets  make. 
Whereof  the  ewe  bites  not. "  There  are  several 
kinds  of  fungi  which  have  this  habit  of  growing 
in  rings  ;  the  common  Mushroom  often  forms 
partial  rings,  but  why  all  fungi  of  this  description 
should  not  form  rings  is  not  very  clear.  Probably 


14 


THE     GARDEN. 


(January  9,  1909. 


alt  that  grow  on  grassland  would  do  so,  and 
those  which  do  not  have  not  the  same  oppor- 
tunity. The  Giant  Puff-ball  has  at  times  been 
found  growing  in  rings,  but  it  is  seldom  that 
many  are  found  growing  together. 

The  fungus  that  is  usually  the  cause  of  the 
rings  is  Marasmius  oreades.  The  Toadstools 
should  always  be  swept  away  as  soon  as  they 
appear,  so  as  to  prevent  them  from  shedding 
their  spores.  The  rings  originate  from  a  single 
Toadstool,  which  sheds  its  spores  aiound  it ; 
some  of  these  germinate,  and  the  ring,  though 
small,  is  begun.  Every  year  the  spawn 
pushes  forward  into  fresh  ground,  and  the 
spores  which  fall  on  the  new  soil  germinate, 
while  those  which  fall  on  that  which  has  already 
been  exhausted  by  the  fungus  do  not,  and  so 
the  ring  increases  in  size  year  by  year.  Sweep- 
ing away  the  Toadstools  does  not  in  any  way  kill 
the  spawn,  hence  that  also  must  be  destroyed  or 
removed 

The  best  way  of  effecting  this  is  to  loosen  the 
turf  to  some  extent  with  a  fork,  so  as  to  allow 
the  fungicide  to  soak  well  in,  as  it  is  necessary 
that  it  should  reach  every  bit  of  the  spawn,  then 
thoroughly  soak  the  turf  and  soil  where  the  ring 
is  and  also  that  for  some  18  inches  outside  the 
ring  with  strong  Bordeaux  mixture  four  times, 
at  intervals  of  a  week  ;  or  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  (lib.  to  a  gallon  of  water)  may  be 
used  in  the  same  way  for  the  first  application, 
but  of  half  that  strength  for  the  subsequent 
ones.  This  is  an  easier  way  of  destroying  the 
fungus  than  cutting  out  the  soil  and  replacing 
it  with  fresh,  though  the  turf  may  not  quite  like 
such  treatment  for  the  moment.  Marasmius 
oreades  is  one  of  the  edible  fungi,  and  is  said  to 
have  a  good  flavour  ;  but  it  must  always  be 
remembered  that  because  a  fungus  is  found  on  a 
fairy  ring  it  is  not  sure  to  be  edible.  Other 
plants  besides  fungi  have  been  known  to  form 
fairy  rings.  Certain  Composites,  Labiates, 
Irises,  Grasses,  Sedges  and  Rushes  under 
favourable  conditions  of  soil  form  ring-shaped 
colonies,  due  no  doubt  to  the  underground  shoots 
pressing  forward  towards  fresh  soil  and  the 
death  of  the  old  plants.  G.  S.  S. 


NOTES  OF   THE  WEEK. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 
JANUARY. 


THE  BEST  METHODS  OF  GROWING 
SWEET  PEAS  FOR  GARDEN 
DECORATION. 

A  First  PrUe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A   Second  Prize   of  TVO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  Prize  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on    the   above 
subject. 

Attention  should  be  given  to  suitable  varieties 
and  also  to  their  combination  with  other  plants, 
and  oritnualitv  is  strongly  desired. 

The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  Thb  Garden,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Saturday,  January  30.  Both  amateur  and 
professional  gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  Thb  Gabden  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSB.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
decision  is  final. 


FORTHCOMING   EVENTS. 

*„*  The  dates  given  beloiv  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

January  12. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Fruit  and  Vegetables, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster,   1  p.m.  to  5  p.m. 

January  21. — Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent 
Institution,  Annual  General  Meeting  at  Simp- 
son's, 101,  Strand,  London,  W.C,  at  2.4.5  p.m. 

January  23. — French  Gardening  Society  of 
London  Annual  Dinner  at  the  Caf6  Royal, 
Regent  Street. 


Outdoop    Vines    at    W^lsley.— The 

general  Press  has  been  commenting  on  the  effort 
being  made  at  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  Gardens,  Wisley,  to  create  an  open- 
air  vineyard,  where  a  large  number  of  Vines  of 
the  best-known  outdoor  varieties  grown  for  wine- 
making  are  not  only  planted,  but  are  now  well 
established.  It  is  not,  I  presume,  hoped  to 
make  a  second  Castle  Coch  vineyard  at  XVisley, 
or  to  embark  in  the  making  of  British  wine. 
That  form  of  enterprise  does  not  seem  to  have 
been  very  successful  at  Cardiff,  although  the 
conditions  as  to  soil  and  situation  may  possibly 
be  more  favourable  at  XVisley  than  in  Wales. 
But  I  have  a  lively  recollection  of  the  great 
effort  made  some  years  ago  by  a  famous  Vine 
grower,  Mr.  Clement  Hoare,  not  in  the  open,  but 
against  low  walls  on  the  sunny  side  of  a  sloping 
hill  in  South  Hants,  and  how,  with  all  his  energy 
and  enthusiasm,  with  summers  more  favourable 
to  outdoor  Grape  ripening  than  they  now  seem 
to  be,  the  result  was  a  failure.  I  have  little  hope 
that  any  good  other  than  to  reveal  comparative 
failure  will  come  from  the  Wisley  enterprise. — 
A.  D. 
The  Poisons  and  Phapmacy  Bill. 

This  Bill  passed  its  third  reading  in  the  House  of 
Commons  on  the  17th  ult.,  received  the  Royal 
Assent  in  the  House  of  Lords  on  the  21st  ult. , 
and  becomes  law  on  April  1  next.  This  new  Act 
entitles  nurserymen,  seedsmen,  florists,  agricul- 
tural agents  and  others  to  stock  and  sell ,  after 
obtaining  a  licence,  poisonous  compounds  required 
in  horticulture  and  agriculture.  It  is  the  out- 
come of  an  agitation  started  and  carried  on  by 
the  Traders  in  Poisonous  Compounds  for  Trade 
Purposes  Protection  Society,  which  was  formed 
in  1900  in  consequence  of  prosecutions  which  hid 
been  brought  against  tradesmen  (nurserymen, 
seedsmen  and  ironmongers)  for  having  sold  or 
kept  open  shop  for  the  sale  of  insecticides,  weed- 
killers and  sheep  dips  containing  a  poison,  and 
notably  the  cases  of  the  Pharmaceutical  Society 
i'.  White  and  the  Pharmaceutical  Society  v. 
Wrench.  Mr.  G.  H.  Richards  of  234,  Borough 
High  Street,  London,  became  the  promoter  and 
treasurer,  and  Mr.  T.  G.  Dobbs  of  14,  Sansome 
Street,  Worcester,  was  appointed  and  continues 
to  act  as  secretary  and  solicitor.  A  Bill  was  pre- 
pared by  the  secretary  and  solicitor  known  as 
the  Trades  Poisons  and  Poisonous  Compounds 
Bill,  and  the  provisons  of  this  Bill  were  brought 
forcibly  before  the  Board  of  Agriculture  and  the 
Lord  President  of  the  Priv}'  Council,  who, 
realising  that  some  alteration  in  the  law  was 
required,  appointed  a  Departmental  Committee 
to  consider  the  matter.  The  Traders  Society, 
being  the  prime  movers  in  the  agitation,  was 
asked  to  submit  witnesses,  which  was  done,  with 
the  result  that  in  1903  the  Departmental  Com- 
mittee made  their  report  and  recommended  an 
alteration  in  the  law  on  the  lines  of  the  Trades 
Poisons  Bill.  Following  this  up,  the  society 
organised  deputations  to  wait  upon  the  President 
of  the  Board  of  Agriculture,  and  eventually  the 
Government  took  the  matter  up  and  introduced 
the  Poisons  and  Pharmacy  Bill.  Petitions  were 
signed  and  presented  to  Parliament,  and  the 
agricultural  and  horticultural  societies  and 
chambers  of  commerce  were  asked  to  co-operate 


in  the  effort  which  tlie  Traders  Society  was 
making  to  get  the  Pharmacy  Act,  1868,  amended  ; 
but  it  was  only  after  a  great  deal  of  patient  work 
and  perseverance  on  the  part  of  the  Traders 
Society  that  the  Bill  was  successfully  pioneered 
through  Parliament  this  session. 

Plants   in  flowep  on  ChPistmEs 

Day.— Mrs.  Hamworth  Booth,  Rolston  Hall, 
Hornsea,  Hull,  sent  a  charming  gathering  of 
flowers  picked  in  the  garden  on  Christmas  Day — 
they  were  all  out  of  doors  ;  Rose,  Chrysanthe- 
mum, St.  Brigid's  Anemone,  Jasminumnudiflorum, 
Virginian  Stock,  white  Heather,  Gentianella 
(Gentiana  aeaulis).  Marigold,  Pansy,  Violet  and 
Aubrietia. 

Sutton's  Gapden  Diary  fop  1909. 

As  usual,  this  is  a  most  artistic  and  useful  little 
publication,  and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  all 
who  love  their  gardens.  Brief  but  comprehen- 
sive notes  on  the  culture  of  vegetables  and 
flowers  accompany  each  monthly  calendar,  and 
spaces  for  comments  add  much  to  the  value  of 
the  book.  This,  we  believe,  has  been  distributed 
to  Messrs.  Sutton's  customers,  but  the  firm  still 
have  a  few  copies  left,  which  may  be  obtained, 
price  Is.  net,  from  their  offices  at  Reading. 

Ppesentation  to  a  liorticultupa) 
society    secpetary.  —  After   the  formal 

business  meeting  of  the  Dunfermline  Horticul- 
tural Society  on  the  evening  of  the  26th  ult. ,  an 
interesting  and  pleasing  function  took  place, 
when  the  members  presented  to  Mr.  John  Hynd, 
who  has  been  secretary  of  the  society  for  the 
past  sixteen  years,  a  handsome  timepiece,  with 
a  brooch  for  Mrs.  Hynd,  on  the  occasion  of  their 
silver  wedding.  Mr.  Dunagan,  president,  pre- 
sided, and  the  presentation  was  made  by  Mr. 
James  Meldrum,  one  of  the  oldest  members. 
He  voiced  in  an  able  way  the  sentiments  of  the 
subscribers,  who  desired  to  congratulate  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Hynd  on  celebrating  their  silver  wedding 
and  of  showing  how  much  they  appreciated  the 
long  and  able  services  of  Mr.  Hynd  as  their 
secretary.  Mr.  Meldrum  referred  to  the  able 
way  in  which  Mr.  Hynd  performed  his  duties, 
and  stated  that  he  had  never  heard  a  complaint 
of  the  manner  in  which  they  were  executed. 
Mr.  Hynd  made  a  feeling  reply,  in  the  course  of 
which  he  attributed  to  his  wife  his  interest  in 
flowers,  and  spoke  of  the  pleasure  this  afforded  him. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
txpressea  by  correspondents.) 

"The    Gapden"    Flower    Show 

Schedule.— I  have  gone  carefully  through  the 
classes  as  arranged  in  the  schedule  and  ask  leave 
to  offer  one  or  two  criticisms.  In  the  small  fruit 
classes,  the  enforced  presentation  of  White  Cur- 
rants seems  likely  to  limit  the  competition, 
because  so  few  persons  relatively  seem  to  grow 
them.  In  Gooseberries  there  is  a  far  wider  range 
of  distinctness  than  in  Currants.  I  should  have 
thought  a  class  for  six  dishes  of  smaller  bush 
fruits,  distinct,  sutBcient.  While  no  question 
as  to  what  is  an  autumn-sown  Onion  can  be 
raised,  it  is  often  in  relation  to  what  consti- 
tutes a  spring-sown  Onion,  although  it  is  com- 
monly assumed  to  be  raised  from  an  outdoor 
sowing  in  the  spring.  If  that  is  so,  then  Onions 
raised  from  a  winter  sowing  have  no  class  and 
may  well  be  disqualified  if  presented  as  spring- 
sown.  I  should  like  to  have  seen  a  further  class 
for  winter-sown  glass-raised  Onions,  and  one  for 
white  Turnips,  these  taking  the  places  of  the 
class  for  intermediate  Carrots  and  the  one  for 
tap-rooted  Beets,  as  the  date,  July  28,  is  too 
early  to  have  these  maincrop  or  autumn  and 
winter  roots  in  season.  It  so  often  happens  that 
to  find  good  roots  of  these  many  are  pulled  and 
thus  wasted. — A.  De.in. 

Perpetual-floweping:  Capnations 
as  grarden  plants.— I  noticed  in  your 
columns  a  few  Weeks  ago  a  letter  dealing  with 


January  9,  1909. J 


THE     GARDEN. 


15 


the  Perpetual-flowering   Carnation   as  a  garden 
plant.     Perhaps  it  may  be  of  some  interest  to 
readers  if  I  give  my  experience  on  the  subject. 
Like  your  correspondent,  I  had  my  plants  from 
Messrs.   Hugh  Low  and  Co.  of  Enfield.     I  may 
mention  that  up  to  this  year  my  one  thought  in 
the  garden  had  been  of   Roses  ;  indeed,  I  have 
had  very  little  room  for  anything  else,  but  with 
that  persuasive  way  of  his  that  all  Messrs.  Low's 
clients  must  know,  Mr.  H.  Barnard  suggested 
that    I    should   try  a   few    Perpetual-flowering 
Carnations  in  between  the  Roses,  as  they  had 
wintered  them  out  of  doors  at  Bush  Hill  Park 
and   had   found  them   quite   hardy  ;  he   further 
Invited  me   to  see  the  Carnation  houses  there. 
This  was  the  beginning  of  the  end.     In  company 
with   another    Rose   enthusiast,    a    sceptic    like 
myself,  I  went,  and  we  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  sight  of  one  of  the  250-feet  houses  of 
Carnations  in  full    bloom  was  worth  travelling 
much  further  than  Bush  Hill  Park  to  see.     Both 
of  us — Rose  lovers — succumbed   to  the  tempta- 
tion and  decided  to  try  them  in  our  Rose  gardens. 
I  had  about  thirty  plants  to  begin  with, 
and  this  autumn  I  have  made  room  in 
my  garden  for  many  more  next  year. 
The  plants  were   in   5-inoh  pots,  and 
they  were  planted  out  at  the  beginning 
of  May.     To  make  sure  there  should  be 
plenty  of  drainage — a  most  important 
point  in  growing  Carnations  of   any 
sort — I  placed  about  2  inches  of  sand 
at  the  bottom  of  each  hole  and  planted 
without  disturbing  the  roots.     Beyond 
staking,  tying,  taking  precautions  not 
to   let   the    plants   get   too   wet,    and 
keeping  a  sharp  look-out  for  slugs  and 
caterpillars,    which     seem    to  regard 
Carnation  leaves  as  a  particular  deli- 
cacy,   they   needed   no    further   care. 
From  the  time  the  buds  were  showing 
colour  they  had  weak  doses  of  liquid 
manure  occasionally.    But  the  flowers  ! 
From    the    beginning    of    July   until 
November  the  same  plants  have  been 
blooming  continuously,  sometimes  with 
as  many  as  six  or  seven  blooms  on  a 
plant  (Brittania)   at   the    same  time, 
As  to  varieties,  I  should  say  Brittania 
Lady    Bountiful,     Enchantress,     Mrs, 
Burnett,    White    Perfection,     Harlo 
warden  and  Nelson  Fisher,  in  the  order 
named,  are  the  best  for  garden  pur- 
poses.    Brittania,  Lady  Bountiful  and 
Enchantress — all    three  appropriately 
named — did  best,  and  most  especially 
Brittania.     I  admit  that  Victory  is  a 
finer  individual  flower    of    the    same 
colour,  but  it  is  nothing  like  so  prolific 
as  Brittania.     Like  her  namesake  who 
still  rules  the  waves,  she  seems  to  come 
up  smiling  in  spite  of  all  difficulties, 
for     when     the     garden     was     being 
altered  and  it  was  necessary  to  take 
the  plants  up,  I  laid  all   the  Carna- 
tions  with   the  heels  packed   close   together   in 
a  trench  for  a  matter  of  three  weeks  or  a  month, 
but  Brittania   still   persisted   in   blooming  even 
there.     Floreat  Brittania  !— E.  C. 


to  state  my  views  on  the  subject  in  a  short  essay 
to  be  entitled  "  Attractive  Features  in  Spring 
Gardening,  excluding  the  use  of  Tulips, 
Hyacinths,  Narcissi  and  Garden  Anemones  " — 
rather  a  lengthy  title,  by  the  way.  I  am  grateful 
for  the  courtesy,  but  cannot  think  of  attempting 
anything  so  ambitious  as  an  essay  on  such  a 
subject,  which  in  any  case  could  hardly  be  short; 
nor  am  I  pledged  to  do  so  by  anything  I  said  in 
my  letter. 

As  a  means  of  correcting  a  very  obvious 
tendency  to  a  mechanical,  jam-tart  style  of 
spring  gardening,  I  suggested  that  those  who 
write  essays  for  competition  might  be  invited, 
by  way  of  discipline,  to  devise  schemes  of  spring 
gardening  with  the  omission  of  certain  Dutch 
bulbs,  which,  from  being  procurable  at  cheap 
rates  and  in  assorted  colours  and  easily  arranged 
in  mathematically  exact  lines,  circles,  dots  and 
so  on,  tempt  gardeners  to  imitate  in  spring  a 
style  of  gardening  which  used  to  be  fashionable 
in  summer — and  may  be  so  still  for  all  I  know, 
though  I  see  little  of  it — a  style  which  tends  to 


SHRUBS     IN     SPRING 
BEDDING. 

SOME  time  ago  I  sent  a  letter  to  The 
Garden  on  the  subject  of  mosaic 
flower-beds,  a  propos  of  two  prize 
essays  which  have  lately  been  pub- 
lished advocating  something  of  this 
kind  in  the  spring  garden.  Until  I 
saw  in  the  issue  of  the  ^Gth  ult.  a  note  signed 
"  E.  M.  D."  commenting  on  what  I  said,  I  was 
not  aware  that  my  letter  had  appeared  ;  but  on 
referring  back  to  the  paper  of  the  previous  week 
(page  618)  I  find  it  is  printed  in  extenso,  with  a 
piyil  note  from  the  Editor  appended  inviting  me 


GAGE   PLUM   DENNISTON'S  SUPEKB.     (See  par/e  16.) 

make  every  garden  where  it  is  employed  as  like 
every  other  bedding  garden  as  the  situation  of 
the  ground  will  permit.  The  Editor  infers  from 
my  remarks  that  I  despise  Putch  bulbs  and  their 
brilliant  colouring.  Quite  the  contrary ;  I  love 
every  bulb  that  grows,  and  if  I  had  an  estate 
large  enough  and  a  purse  long  enough,  I  would 
charter  a  Dutch  sloop  each  autumn  to  bring  me  a 
cargo  of  Tulips,  Daffodils,  Hyacinths  and  garden 
Anemones,  and  would  plant  them  when  I  got 
them  in  tens  of  thousands.  Unfortunately,  I 
have  never  had  the  chance  of  planting  these 
bulbs  in  such  numbers  as  I  should  desire,  nor 
ever  shall  have  the  chance  (and  yet  in  my  time  I 
have  planted  a  good  many) ;  but  if  I  could  com- 
mand all  the  bulb  gardens  of  Holland  and  were 
on  my  beam-ends  how  to  dispose  of  a  surplus  of 
Tulips,  I  would  not  use  them  in  producing  the 
piebald  efl^eots  after  which  some  gardeners  seem 
to  strive  with  so  much  misplaced  ingenuity. 
Surely  after  a  time  owners  of  gardens  must 
weary  of  carpets  of  creamy  this,  fringed  with  an 


edging  of  golden  that  and  dotted  over  with  azure 
and  other  things  at  intervals  of  so  many  feet  or 
inches.  A  Keizerskroon  Tulip  is  a  glorious 
flower,  and  so  is  a  good  Polyanthus  ;  but  I  ask 
any  reasonable  mortal  whether  it  would  be 
possible  to  dot  Keizerskronns  at  intervals  of 
Ih  feet  over  a  bed  of  mixed  Polyanthus  without 
making  both  flowers  ridiculous. 

I  remarked  in  my  letter  that  a  whole  class  of 
important  materials  had  been  neglected  in  their 
bedding  schemes  by  the  writers  of  the  essays,  viz. , 
the  various  beautiful  spring-flowering  shrubs, 
and  I  instanced  Forsythias,  Flowering  Currants, 
Cydonias  and  Daphnes,  selecting  these  for  the 
very  good  reason  that  I  have  a  pretty  intimite 
acquaintance  with  their  character  and  habits. 
"  E.  M.  D.,"  a  little  sceptically  I  am  afraid, 
invites  me  to  explain  how  these  shriibs  may  be 
used  in  spring  bedding,  but  warns  me  to  be 
"practical"  in  anything  I  say.  I  suppose  I 
shall  be  practical  enough  for  "  E.  M.  D.'s" 
purpose  if  I  suggest  only  what  I  know  can  be 
put  in  practice.  It  is  true  that  in  any  gardening 
I  have  done  I  have  only  had  to 
please  myself,  and  if,  in  order  to  pass 
for  practical,  it  is  necessary  to  have 
satisfied  some  exacting  employer  by 
keeping  his  parterres  "  bright"  eleven 
months  out  of  twelve,  I  had  better 
resign  myself  to  being  considered  a 
mere  theorist.  At  the  same  time,  I 
quite  understand  what  I  am  writing 
about,  can  recognise  a  flower-bed  when 
I  see  it  and  know  the  character  of  the 
shrubs  I  am  discussing ;  and  I  have 
no  hesitation  in  saying  that  the 
Forsythia,  the  Flowering  Currant  and 
the  Daphn*  Mezereum  may  be  as 
easily  used  for  bedding  as  the  scarlet 
Geranium,  and,  further,  that  so  used 
they  will  relieve  the  stiftbess  and 
formality  that  is  likely  to  result  from 
the  exclusive  use  of  bulbs  and  low- 
growing  tufted  plants,  and  will  lend  a 
charm  and  variety  to  flower  -  beds 
which,  without  them,  these  will  lack. 
As  to  the  Cydonia,  invaluable  also  in 
the  spring  garden,  in  view  of  the  exi- 
gence of  employers,  it  is  to  be  recom- 
mended, perhaps,  with  qualifications, 
since  it  certainly  cannot  be  manipulated 
with  the  ease  of  a  scarlet  Geranium 
in  respect  either  of  planting  or  of 
propagation,  and  at  certain  seasons 
might  be  an  intolerable  eyesore  to  those 
owners  of  gardens  who  insist  on  having 
their  flower-beds  kept  bright  all  the 
year  round. 

Forsythia  suspensa  is  a  shrub  of  the 
easiest  cultivation.  It  roots  as  easily  as 
an  Elder  tree,  and  forms  a  mass  of 
coarse  roots  which  frequent  trans- 
planting will  only  render  more  active 
and  vigorous.  If  out  back  immediately 
after  flowering,  it  will  form  in  oneseason 
long,  lithe  canes  like  the  branches  of  a  Weeping 
Willow,  which,  in  its  habit  of  growth,  it  a  little 
resembles.  Those, however, whotindthatForsythia 
suspensa  does  not  lend  itself  sufficiently  to  this  tes- 
sellated style  of  garden  ornamentation  might  try 
F.  viridissima  or  F.  Fortunei.  I  cannot,  however, 
say  much  about  these  varieties.  F.  suspensa  is 
the  plant  I  should  use,  and  I  am  quite  sure  that 
if  I  had  the  plants  and  the  space  I  could  use  it 
to  such  advantage  that  any  owner  of  a  garden 
who  once  saw  it  in  his  beds  would  never  again 
consent  to  be  without  it,  even  if  it  had  to  be 
left  in  the  bed  as  a  permanency.  As  to  what  to 
plant  with  the  Forsythia  to  eiitct  the  inevitable 
"combination"  or  "harmony"  or  what  not, 
that  may  be  left  to  the  taste  of  the  artist.  If  I 
were  planting  a  bed  myself  to  set  off  the  archi- 
tectural beauties  of  some  old  and  liehened  country 
seat,  the  companion  I  should  give  to  the  For- 
sythia would  be  the  green  turf  ;  but,  if  that 
conception  should  seem  too  elementary,  there 
are  dozens   of   creamy    and    golden  and  a^^ure 


16 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  9,  1909. 


things  that  may  be  diced  and  dotted  round  it 
till  the  bed  vies  in  brilliancy  with  one  of  those 
Oriental  fabrics  on  which  the  pious  Moslem  kneels 
to  praj'. 

As  to  the  Flowering  Currant,  it  is  just  as 
easily  managed  as  the  Forsythia.  It  may  be 
raised  from  seed  by  the  thousand  and  it  grows 
quickly.  The  smallest  plants  flower  abundantly, 
and  the  more  you  cut  this  Currant  back  the 
better  it  likes  it.  Frequent  transplanting  would 
render  it  absolutely  indifferent  to  removal  at  anj' 
time  of  the  year.  It  is  not  a  brilliantly-coloured 
subject,  but  it  runs  through  a  scale  of  pretty, 
(juiet  shades  which  no  other  spring  plant 
known  to  me  can  supply.  As  to  the  possible 
harmonies,  I  leave  that  to  the  artist ;  only  I 
v\  ould  remind  him  that  the  tones  of  this  Ribes 
are  pitched  in  a  minor  key,  and,  therefore,  I 
should  not  try  any  dotting  with  Keizerskroons. 

Now  I  come  to  the  Caphnes,  by  which,  of 
course,  I  mean  hardy  Daphnes,  and  particularly 
Daphne  Mezereum.  If  anyone  is  so  fortunate  as 
to  have  "a  wide  expanse  of  lawn  abutting  on  the 
grey  walls  of  some  old  mansion,"  or,  better  still, 
on  the  brick  walls  of  some  spacious  Queen  Anne 
residence,  and  desires  something  particularly 
sweet  to  place  by  my  lady's  window,  let  me 
advise  a  bed  of  white  Daphne  Mezereum.  The 
shrub  is  a  coarse  rooter,  like  the  Forsythia,  may 
be  transplanted  and  retransplanted  not  only 
without  injury  but  with  positive  benefit  to  the 
plants,  and  does  not  grow  to  any  unmanageable 
size.  In  spring,  if  it  has  been  well  grown,  it 
will  have  long  rods  of  12  inches  to  18  inches, 
which  will  be  solid  cylinders  of  bloom,  and  on 
a  sunny  morning  its  thousands  of  blossoms  will 
impregnate  the  air  with  the  perfumes  of  Araby — 
not  too  strong  a  perfume  either,  but  just  enough 
to  make  you  wish  there  were  more.  If  any 
garden  proprietor  should  like  the  plant  well 
enough  to  let  it  remain  in  the  bed  the  season 
through,  the  beautiful  flowers  will  be  succeeded 
by  still  more  beautiful  amber  berries,  though, 
of  course,  they  will  not  have  the  fragrance 
of  the  blossoms.  Combinations  and  harmonies 
as  per  usual — Arabis,  Myosotis  and  Daisies,  or, 
if  it  is  preferred.  Daisies,  Myosotis  and  Arabis. 

As  to  the  Cydonias,  I  am  afraid  if  they  are  to 
form  a  feature  of  spring  bedding  it  must  be  as  a 
permanency,  though  I  see  no  good  reason  why, 
if  they  are  kept  severely  pruned,  as  they  must  be 
to  flower  their  best,  they  should  not  form  a  fine 
central  body  of  foliage  round  which  to  set  out 
summer  or  autumn  bedding  plants.  These  shrubs, 
however,  are  subject  to  outbursts  of  late  summer 
blooming,  which  would  have  to  be  taken  into 
account  by  the  creator  of  harmonies.  The 
Cydonias  are  so  extremely  beautiful,  they  flower 
so  early,  and  continue  in  flower  so  long  that  it  is 
difiioult  to  conceive  the  owner  of  a  garden 
grudging  these  shrubs  permanent  quarters  in  his 
flower-beds.  As  they  bloom  on  the  old  wood 
they  can  be  kept  at  any  size  found  to  be  most 
suitable,  though  no  doubt  these  shrubs  are  seen 
to  best  advantage  in  other  situations  where  they 
can  straggle  to  their  heart's  content  and  fling  out 
their  branches  in  free  curves.  The  varieties  now 
obtainable  have  a  considerable  range  of  colour, 
from  warm  crimsons  and  scarlets  at  the  one  end 
to  the  purest  white  (in  nivalis)  at  the  other, 
am  not  sure,  however,  that  the  most  exquisite 
shades  of  this  shrub  are  not  found  in  the  inter- 
mediate colours — Apple-blossom  whites,  flushed 
with  rose,  as  in  the  variety,  for  instance,  which 
is  called  in  horticultural  jargon  Cydonia  japonioa 
albo  cincta.  In  connexion  with  these  plants  there 
are  few  stumbling-blocks  in  the  path  of  the 
inventor  of  harmonies.  He  must  take  care  not 
to  allow  the  scarlet  and  crimson  shades  to  fly  at 
each  other's  throats,  and  if  he  would  avoid  a 
discord  which  would  be  particularly  harrowing  to 
his  sensibilities  he  must  take  care  not  to  put  the 
Cydonia  Maulei  near  the  more  fiery  individuals 
of  the  japonica  race.  Wherever  formal  bedding 
forms  a  feature  of  the  spring  garden,  these  shrubs 
should  certainly  find  permanent  quarters  in  some 
of  the  beds.    In  summer,  when  the  bloom  is  over. 


the  foliage  will  form  an  acceptable  background 
and  protection  to  such  things  as  Begonias,  which 
generally  seem  to  me  to  require  something  of  the 
kind.  If  I  had  to  furnish  spring  beds  I  would 
have  Cydonias  in  my  scheme  of  things,  even  if  I 
were  forced  to  grow  them  in  tubs. 

So  much  for  my  assertion  that  certain  shrubs 
might  be  used  for  a  certain  purpose  in  the  spring 
garden.  Whether  my  remarks  have  been  of  a 
sufficiently  practical  nature  I  cannot  say.  They 
are  as  practical  as  I  know  how  to  make  them. 
But  I  hope  no  one  will  suppose  that  my  list  of 
shrubs  is  exhausted  by  those  I  have  mentioned. 
There  are  various  Berberises — Darwinii,  steno- 
phylla,  Thunbergii,  ifec. — of  which  I  believe  a 
great  deal  could  be  made.  The  useful  old  double 
Kerria  would  stand  a  deal  of  knocking  about. 
There  are  varieties  of  Genista  and  Cytisus,  I 
fancy,  which  might  be  forced  into  the  service. 
Surely  also,  with  the  recent  improvements  in  the 
Lilac,  there  are  varieties  of  that  shrub  which 
might  be  made  available.  Again,  what  could  be 
more  charming  as  a  centre-piece  to  a  bed  of  low- 
growing  spring  flowers  than  a  few  vigorous  plants 
of  Magnolia  halleana  ?  There  are  some  mild 
districts,  no  doubt,  in  Great  Britain  and  Ireland 
where  Magnolia  conspioua  flowers  in  the  open ; 
and,  where  that  is  the  case,  nothing  could  be 
more  lovely  than  a  few  good  plants  of  this 
variety  layered  and  pegged  down  as  a  perma- 
nency in  the  centre  of  a  flower-bed,  to  be  sur- 
rounded with  such  of  the  smaller  spring  fry  as 
may  suit  the  fancy  of  the  designer  of  harmonies. 
Surely  also  in  the  Prunus,  Pyrus  and  Cerasus  tribes 
there  are  things  which  the  bedder  might  use  to 
the  advantage  of  his  work.  Staphylea  colchioa 
might  perhaps  be  tried  in  some  of  tha  late  spring 
combinations.  Then  what  about  some  of  the 
early  -  flowering  Rhododendrons  and  hardy 
Azaleas  and  the  various  Androraedas,  loveliest  of 
spring  shrubs  ?  I  used  to  possess  a  Rhododen- 
dron which  produced  heads  of  brilliant  crimson 
flowers  in  early  spring.  I  believe  it  was  called 
R.  nobleanum.  Plants  of  the  smallest  size  would 
flower,  and  a  bed  of  this  Rhododendron  in  early 
spring  might  fling  the  gauntlet  even  to  a  battalion 
of  Keizerskroons.  The  writer  of  the  second 
prize  essay,  which  to  my  mind  is  much  more 
suggestive  and  more  full  of  matter  than  that 
which  obtained  the  first  prize,  suggests  the 
Witch  Hazel  as  material  for  spring  bedding.  No 
doubt  he  is  right,  and  the  pity  is  that  he  did 
not  work  along  this  line  more  than  he  has  done. 
Why  not  Chimonanthus  fragrans,  for  instance, 
or  Jasminum  nudiflorum  to  set  off  the  beauty  of 
the  Snowdrop  ?  There  is  one  lovely  shrub  which 
I  almost  dread  to  mention  in  this  connexion  for 
fear  of  being  laughed  out  of  court  as  unpractical ; 
but  it  is  such  a  beautiful  thing  that  I  will 
take  my  life  in  my  hand  and  venture.  It  is 
Garrya  elliptica.  To  be  quite  honest,  however,  I 
doubt  whether  it  could  be  easily  used  for  bedding 
purposes.  It  certainly  could  not  be  left  to  the 
tender  mercies  of  the  stable-boy.  It  is,  I 
believe,  not  easily  propagated,  and  whether  it 
could  be  brought  to  stand  frequent  transplantings 
like  other  shrubs  I  have  mentioned  I  cannot 
say,  because  I  have  never  had  enough  plants  to 
try.  But  if  I  were  asked  what  in  all  the  vege- 
table world  would  form  the  best  background  to 
flamboyant  flowers  like  Tulips  and  Anemones,  I 
should  say  Garrya  elliptica. 

I  am  afraid  that  this  article,  if  it  has  not  risen 
to  the  dignity  has,  at  least,  reached  the  length 
of  an  essay.  I  trust  it  will  be  noted,  however,  that 
I  have  not  been  writing  about  attractive  features 
in  spring  gardening,  for,  though  I  do  not  object 
to  formal  beds  in  moderation  (and  "undotted  "), 
I  do  not  regard  them  as  particularly  attractive ; 
and  it  is  exclusively  with  formal  bedding  that  I 
have  concerned  myself  ;  because  if  "  'twere  done 
when  'tis  done ''  'twere  just  as  well  that  spring 
bedding  were  done  well  ;  and  how  can  it  be  done 
well  unless  full  use -is  made  of  all  available 
materials  ?  If  I  had  allowed  myself  carte  blanche 
to  deal  with  "attractive  features,"  goodness 
knows  to  what  length  I  might  have  gone,  besides 


laying  myself  open  (as  probably  I  have  done 
already)  to  the  scorn  of  all  properly  orthodox 
tessellators.  There  were  even  a  few  subjects 
among  ordinary  herbaceous  things  which  it 
seemed  to  me  were  unaccountably  ignored  by 
the  essayists,  but  these  I  must  pass  over. 

And  now,  having  purged  my  bosom  of  all  this 
"perilous  stuff,"  I  shall  wait  with  a  quiet  and  un- 
troubled conscience  till  the  spring  renders  me  up 
the  Keizerskroons  which  I  have  dotted  about  my 
borders,  expecting  in  the  meantime,  with  a  certain 
assurance,  the  felicitations  of  the  Editor  on  the 
skill  with  which  I  have  avoided  those  three  words, 
carpet  and  dot  plant.  A.  W-. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


GAGE  PLUM   DENNISTON'S  SUPERB. 

THIS  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  early  Gage 
section,  and  what  makes  it  of  much 
greater  value  is  that  is  does  well  in 
most  localities  and  is  a  great  success 
in  all  forms,  either  as  a  wall  tree  or 
as  a  pyramid,  and  though  I  do  not 
think  many  varieties  of  the  Plum  are  suitable  as 
cordons,  Denniston's  Superb  is  one  that  succeeds 
in  this  form,  so  that  it  is  worth  attention  on 
that  account,  as  in  gardens  of  somewhat  limited 
size  failure  of  the  crop  must  be  seriously  con- 
sidered. Of  late  j'ears  the  Plum  has  made  great 
strides  as  a  pot  tree,  and  one  of  the  very  best  for 
pot  culture  is  the  variety  now  under  notice.  Its 
earliness  is  a  great  gain,  and  grown  as  a  pot  tree 
it  is  most  valuable,  both  as  an  early  forcer  and 
for  its  free-bearing  qualities. 

The  fruit  of  Denniston's  Superb  is  large, 
round  and  of  a  greenish  yellow  colour,  marked 
with  a  few  purple  thin  blotches  and  dots,  and 
beautifully  covered  with  bloom.  It  has  a  rather 
long  stalk  inserted  in  a  small  cavity.  The  flesh 
is  yellow,  firm,  very  rich  and  juicy,  and  may  be 
termed  sweet  and  having  a  distinctly  vinous 
flavour.  It  is  a  first-rate  early  variety  and 
equal  in  flavour  to  the  (Jreen  Gage,  with  a 
slightly  brisker  flavour  than  the  last-named.  It 
is  usually  in  season  at  the  middle  of  August,  but 
grown  as  a  cordon  on  a  west  wall  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  country  I  have  had  fine  fruits  the 
first  week  in  that  month. 

This  Plum  is  of  American  origin,  having  been 
raised  by  Mr.  J.  Denniston  of  Albany,  New 
York,  and  has  made  itself  a  name  in  this 
country  on  account  of  its  good  qualities.  The 
tree  has  not  a  gross  habit  and  is  most  suitable 
for  amateurs  on  that  account.  As  many  growers 
know,  the  old  Green  Gage,  though  one  of  the 
most  favoured  of  all  Plums,  is  not  always 
satisfactory  as  a  cropper,  as  it  grows  gross  in 
some  soils  and  is  known  under  quite  two  dozen 
different  names  (thus  showing  its  popularity)  ;  I 
am  sure  the  one  illustrated  will  be  most  reliable 
where  the  old  Green  Gage  fails. 

I  have  alluded  to  cordon  trees  and  its  value 
for  pot  culture,  but  this  variety  is  most  suitable 
grown  as  a  small  bush  or  pyramid  in  soils  where 
the  Plum  succeeds.  Only  recently  I  saw  some 
very  fine  standards  of  this  variety  laden  with 
fruit,  whereas  the  trees  of  the  old  Gages  were 
nearly  barren,  and  this  points  out  its  value 
grown  in  the  open.  As  a  wall  tree  it  is  very 
tine,  and  if  the  fruits  are  properly  thinned  they 
are  excellent.  A  word  as  to  planting  in  the 
open.  I  advise  good  loam  in  preference  to  rich 
manure,  and  in  soils  deficient  of  lime  give  a 
liberal  quantity  of  old  fine  mortar  rubble  or 
broken  chalk  ;  in  heavy  land  such  additions 
as  wood  ashes  or  burnt  refuse  well  incorporated 
with  the  soil  are  of  great  advantage.  Do  not 
plant  too  deeply,  but  so  as  to  allow  of  surface- 
dressings  later  on.  G.  Wythes. 


FRUIT    NOTES. 
MosSBS  AND  Lichens. — It  is  extremely  common 
to  see  the  stems  and    branches   of  young  and 


January  9,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


17 


old  fruit  trees  smothered  with  mosses  and  lichens, 
and  many  people  appear  to  think  that  these  things 
do  not  do  harm,  for  they  never  make  an  effort  to 
exterminate  them.  Herein  they  are  wrong,  for 
when  the  bark  is  thus  enveloped  it  is  impossible 
for  it  to  do  its  work  properly.  Each  winter 
growers  should  make  an  attempt  to  thoroughly 
cleanse  the  trunks  and  branches,  and  it  will  be 
found  that  after  one  or  two  seasons  of  careful 
work  the  bark  will  shine  with  the  glow  of  health 
and  cleanliness.  On  the  hard  bark  it  will  be 
found  imperative  to  have  recourse  to  the  use  of 
a  small  triangular  scraper,  as  the  brush,  no 
matter  how  efficiently  it  may  be  used,  will  not 
do  all  the  work  that  has  to  be  done.  As  soon  as 
the  scraping  is  completed,  the  operator  should 
follow  with  a  dressing  of  caustic  soda,  advice 
upon  the  making  of  which  will  be  given  in  the 
next  paragraph,  the  bole  and  accessible  branches 
being  dressed  with  a  brush,  while  the  upper 
portions  of  the  tree  are  dealt  with  through  a 
sprayer.  It  is  satisfactory  to  know  that  at  the 
same  time  as  one  clears  away  the  mosses  and 
lichens  one  destroys  many  eggs  and  insects. 

Caustic  Soda  WASH.^This  is  indisputably 
one  of  the  most  valuable  washes  that  has  ever 
found  its  way  into  the  fruit  gardens  of  England, 
and  it  is  certain  that  if  every  fruit  grower  used 
it  regularly,  season  after  season,  we  should  hear 
far  less  than  we  do  of  damage  from  insect  pests. 
It  is  quite  inexpensive,  easy  to  compound  and 
simple  to  apply,  provided  that  a  few  essential 
points  are  always  kept  in  mind.  The  first  thing 
to  remember  is  that  the  wash  has  decided  burn- 
ing properties,  and  the  operator  must,  therefore, 
wear  old  clothes  and  boots  and  a  wide-brimmed 
hat,  and  must  always  work  from  the  windward 
side  of  the  tree,  or  the  spray  will  be  blown  back 
into  his  face  and  cause  considerable  discomfort. 
Another  very  important  point  is  to  have  a 
sprayer  which  throws  a  fine  mist-like  film  of 
wash,  as  this  will  adhere  to  the  small  shoots  and 
branches,  whereas  a  coarse  application  would  run 
straight  down  the  growths  and  thus  the  worker's 
time  and  material  would  be*largely  wasted.  For 
application  to  the  bole  a  half- worn-out  brush  is 
the  best  tool,  as  it  can  be  used  with  some  force, 
and  may  be  readily  worked  into  the  nooks  and 
crannies  where  eggs  are  likely  to  be  deposited. 
It  is  necessary  to  add  to  the  equipment  already 
specified  some  old  gloves. 

For  efficacy  I  have  not  yet  found  a  compound 
of  soda  and  potash  superior  to  that  advocated  by 
Cousens,  and  it  is  his  formula  that  I  am  about  to 
give  here.  It  comprises  lib.  of  commercial 
caustic  soda,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  pearlash 
(crude  carbonate  of  potash),  lOoz.  of  soft  soap 
and  10  gallons  of  water,  and  it  should  be  pre- 
pared thus  :  Place  the  soda  in  a  bucket  contain- 
ing some  water  and  thoroughly  stir.  As  soon  as 
this  has  been  dissolved  add  the  pearlash  and  sti  r 
again,  and  when  this  in  turn  has  dissolved  add 
water  to  make  up  10  gallons.  This  must  be 
stirred  very  vigorously,  and  when  the  amalga- 
mation is  perfect  add  the  Kloz.  of  soap  which 
has  been  previously  dissolved  in  boiling  water. 
Another  thorough  stirring  and  the  wash  is  ready 
for  application  ;  but  it  is  wise  to  strain  that 
which  has  to  pass  through  a  sprayer,  or  the 
instrument  may  soon  become  choked  up.  If 
desired,  this  may  be  applied  at  a  temperature  of 
about  140°. 

Grease  Bauds. — For  arresting  the  upward 
progress  of  the  females  of  the  winter  moth  into 
the  trees  these  are  invaluable,  and  should  always 
be  used.  Unfortunately,  it  is  common  to  put 
them  on  in  the  autumn  and  winter  and  then  not 
give  them  any  further  attention,  with  the 
natural  result  that  the  grease  dries  and  the 
insects  can  then  travel  as  comfortably  over 
the  band  as  they  can  over  the  bark  of  the  tree. 
If  the  bands  are  to  be  effectual,  it  is  imperative 
that  the  grease  shall  be  kept  active  through  the 
winter.  There  are  special  grease  preparations  on 
the  market,  but  it  will  be  found  that  cart-grease 
smeared  on  stout  brown  paper  answers  very 
well.  H.  J.  W. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


A  ROCK  GARDEN  IN    LINCOLN. 

THE  rock  garden  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion was  made  in  the  year  1904,  the 
stones  being  the  local  limestone.  The 
steps  are  used  to  connect  two  terraces 
at  different  levels.  Those  shown  face 
towards  the  west,  so  that  one  side  of 
the  rock  garden  gets  plenty  of  sun.  Among  the 
plants  are  Saxifraga  sancta.  Tunica  Saxifraga, 
Euphorbia  Wulfenii,  Daphne  Cneorum,  Cistus 
from  the  Pyrenees,  AndrosaoeChumbyii,  Primulas 
rosea,  capitata,  farinosa  and  cashmeriana,  Litho- 
spermum  prostratum,  Genistasagittalis,  (Enothera 
taraxifolia,  Veronica  Andersonii,  Cyclamen 
Coum,  blue  Anemone,  Hepatiea,  Polygonum 
affine,  alpine  Rose,  Giant  Thrift,  Aster  alpinus, 
Veronica  repens  and  spicata,  Oak  and  Parsley 
Ferns,  Cypripedium  Calceolus,  various  Saxifrages 


inflorescence  appears  flat  with  a  cone-like  centre. 
The  colouring  varies  from  cream  to  a  soft  straw 
yellow.  A  rare  Seilla,  unfortunately  too  tender 
for  outdoor  culture  save  in  very  warm  counties. 
It  flowers  with  S.  peruviana  in  early  June. 

S.  patula  (the  nodding  Squill)  resembles  our 
Bluebell,  but  the  flowers  appear  to  be  tasselled 
owing  to  the  drooping  cluster  of  buds  above  the 
open  blooms  ;  the  bells  are  lilac  or  lavender  and 
the  segments  are  lined  with  blue.  Rosy-tinted 
forms  occur  frequently,  but  they  lack  the  soft, 
refined  colour  shades  of  the  type.  S.  patula  is 
an  excellent  border  plant,  quite  easy  to  grow  and 
one  of  the  best  Squills  for  naturalising  in  sunny 
places  where  the  soil  is  good.  The  flowers 
expand  to  the  fullest  extent,  and  they  can  hardly 
be  called  campanulate  but  saucer-shaped. 

<S.  perui'iaiia,  a  well-known  Soilla  of  pyramidal 
outline,  is  considered  too  tender  for  outdoor  cul- 
ture, but  if  planted  6  inches  deep  it  will 
survive  most  winters.  It  makes  considerable 
leaf -growth  in  autumn  and  is  often  badly  checked 


A    CORNER    IIF    A    ROCK    GARDEN"    IX    LINCOLN'. 


and  Sedums,  and  on  the  steps  a  species  of  Camo- 
mile, which,  when  trodden  on,  produces  a  strong 
scent.  F.  H.  Hutton. 


THE  SCILLAS. 
[Continued  Jrom  Vol.  LXXII.,  paye  635.) 
SciLLA  FESTALis  (the  oommon  Bluebell)  has 
white,  rose  and  pink  varieties.  The  bulbs  should 
be  planted  deeply  when  establishing  a  colony. 
A  depth  of  8  inches  may  be  accepted  as  the 
deepest  one  can  plant  with  success ;  the  spikes 
are  much  finer  and  the  yield  of  flowers  and  seeds 
is  greater  than  when  barely  covered,  as  one  finds 
the  bulbs  in  a  natural  state.  One  should  always 
plant  before  the  autumn  rains  occur. 

S.  hyacinthoides  is  a  magnificent  Squill  of 
vigorous  growth  resembling  S.  peruviana  in  its 
leafage,  and  producing  long  spikes  of  flowers 
■2  feet  high,  the  bells  of  which  are  contracted  at 
the  middle,  very  large  and  coloured  a  rich 
gentian  blue.  It  is  a  fine  plant  for  border 
cultivation,  and  it  may  be  naturalised  in 
exceedingly  good  soils. 

■  /S.  natalensis  is  a  pale,  yellow-flowered,  strong- 
growing  species,  closely  resembling  S.  peruviana  ; 
it  has  a  spreading  pyramidal  head,  the  lower 
flowers    with     long     pedicels,     so     that      the 


by  frosts,  but  it  generally  manages  to  survive 
and  flowers  freel}'.  The  spikes  appear  in  early 
summer  and  are  blue,  but  vary  in  tint  from  a 
"washed-out"  pale  blue  to  a  darker  and  more 
vivid  colouring.  The  spikes  often  exceed  6  inches 
across ;  the  flowers  are  narrow-petalled  and  starrj'. 
Alba  is  a  more  refined  form,  and  it  looks  at 
its  best  when  intermingled  with  the  type.  This 
Squill  rests  only  for  a  few  weeks  and  early 
planting  is  necessary — July  and  August  are 
the  best  months,  but  November  planting  is  also 
successful,  as  the  bulbs  make  a  second  "ring" 
of  roots  in  that  month. 

jS.  pratenais  is  a  starry-flowered  plant  of  the 
italiea  type,  but  the  inflorescence  is  larger  and 
more  freely  produced  when  the  bulbs  are  fairly 
established,  while  the  colouring  is  a  really  good 
blue. 

S.  aihiricxL  (the  well-known  Siberian  Squill)  is 
one  of  the  showiest  of  the  spring-flowering 
group.  The  flowers  are  in  short,  slender  spikes, 
of  which  several  are  produced,  and  they  are 
widely  bell  -  shaped  or  nearly  flat.  The 
appearance  of  the  growths  above  ground  is 
interesting  to  watch.  The  leaves  are  hooded 
at  the  tips,  and  the  flowers  do  not  appear 
in  complete  spikes,  but  tumble  out  of 
their   prison   of    leaves   one    at    a    time.       The 


18 


THE    GAEDEN. 


January  9,  1909. 


greatest  use  for  the  Siberian  Squill  is  in  the 
rock  garden  and  for  naturalising  on  grassy 
slopes.  Alba  is  a  charming  little  bulb  of  garden 
origin,  a  pure  white,  but  not  quite  so  hardy  and 
long-lived  as  the  type,  while  lilaoina  is  lavender 
tinted.  These  Squills  are  charming  flowers  in 
|>ans  for  the  alpine  house  or  for  the  decoration  of 
apartments  in  spring.  September  and  October 
ire  the  best  months  for  planting. 

iS.  rerna  is  a  neat  rookery  plant,  pretty  in  the 
mass,  but  too  small  for  general  use.  The  flowers 
ire  starry,  deep  lilac  or  blue-purple  in  colour  ; 
the  effect  in  the  mass  is  that  of  blue  with  a 
sheen  of  rosy  lilac.     There  are  other  species,  but 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 


OF    PER- 

ROSES. 


THE    CLASSIFICATION 
PETUAL-FLOWERING 

A  Suggestion. 
N   the  early   years  of  English   history 


1 


the 


people  of  this  realm  were  classified  nomi- 
nally in  three  divisions,  British,  Anglo- 
Saxons  and  Normans,  since  their  racial 
characteristics  were  recognisable.  But 
as     time     advanced     these     distinctions 


became  more  and  more  confused — intermarriage 
the  foregoing  represent  the  best  of  those  that  are  [  had   practically  obliterated  them— until   at  last 


worth  growing. 

THE    CRIMEAN    SNOWDROP. 

(GaLANTHUS   PLICAXaS. ) 


M.  that  which  for  some  time  had  been  patent  to 
all  became  an  accomplished  fact,  and  the  three 
races  were  merged  in  one,  the  English  people. 
May  there  not  be  something  analogous  to 
this  in  the  development  of  the  modern  perpetual- 
flowering  Rose,  in  the  process  by  which  it  has 
WiTM  the  approach  of  the  opening  year  we  are  '  undergone  a  change  ;  and  is  it  not  conceivable, 
all  agog  for  the  first  Snowdrops  of  the  time,  and  perhaps  desirable,  that  the  National  Rose 
They  are  ever  welcome,  with  their  slender  stems  Society  should  seriously  consider  the  advisability 
and  their  elegant  eardrop  flowers  hanging  so  ;  of  drafting  a  new  classification  of  this  Rose  '! 
gracefully     from    their     slender    pedicels,     and  |  Let  us  review  the  situation. 

waving  to  and  fro  with  every  breeze  of  the  early  j  From  1830  to  1880,  speaking  broadly,  the 
days  or  tossing  wildly  as  they  are  shaken  by  the  modern  perpetual-flowering  hybrids  could  be  and 
gales  of  winter.  '  were  grouped  in  three  main  divisions,  viz.,  those 

Of  the  numerous  species  which  are  now  to  be  which  had  for  their  original  parent  either  (1) 
met  with,  the  Crimean  Snowdrop  always  com-  R.  damascena,  (2)  R.  indioa  odorata,  or  (3)  R. 
mands  interest  and  appreciation.  It  is  a  bold  plant  bourboniana.  In  other  words,  they  could  be 
in  its  best  forms,  with  a  larger  bcilb  than  that  of    readily    classified    under    one     of    these     three 


our  own  common  Snowdrop  (Gal.vnthus 
luid  having  a  taller  stem  and 
leaves,  which  are  eventually  about 
1  foot  in  length.  These  leaves 
have  a  character  of  their  own, 
derived  from  the  reduplication 
or  folding  back  of  the  margins,  a 
feature  which  distinguishes  the 
species  and  its  hybrids.  The 
flowers  are  not  so  large  in  size 
as  one  would  anticipate  from  the 
leaves  and  stems,  but  a  good 
form  of  this  Snowdrop  is  hand- 
some in  every  way,  and  is  sure 
to  be  favoured  by  admirers  of 
this  simple  hardy  flower. 

One  of  the  finest  varieties  I 
have  met  with  is  that  called 
Fraseri,  which  was  found  among 
others  in  the  garden  of  the  late 
Mr.  Patrick  Neill  Fraser  of 
Rockville,  Murrayfield,  Edin- 
burgh, for  a  number  of  years 
treasurer  of  the  Royal  Caledonian 
Horticultural  Society.  Another 
is  called  Chapelii,  from  the  place 
where  it  was  found,  at  Chapel, 
Berwickshire.  Several  other 
forms  have  been  found  or  selected 
from  seedlings,  and  a  considerable 
number  of  hybrids  have  been 
raised  between  this  and  other 
Snowdrops.  The  late  Mr.  William 
Thomson  of  High  Blantyre, 
Lanarkshire,  raised  some  good 
varieties,  and  Mr.  W.  B.  Boyd 
of  Faldonside,  Melrose,  and  the 
late  Mr.  James  Allen  of  Shepton 
Mallet  have  done  much  good 
work  with  this  Galanthus  and  its 
hybrids.  It  also  appears  to  be 
one  of  the  parents  of  the  natural 
hybrid  Galanthus  byzantinus  and 
of  a  somewhat  similar  Snowdrop 
which  occurs  near  Broussa  in 
Bithynia. 

The  Crimean  Snowdrop  appears 
to  enjoy  the  same  conditions  as 
our  common  one,  but  it  is  liable 
to  die  off  without  apparent 
cause,  while  it  is  as  subject  to 
the  evil  effects  of  the  lungoid 
disease  which  attacks  Snowdrops 
as  any  other  species.    S.  Arnott. 


nivalis)    divisions,  the  Hybrid  Perpetual,  the  Tea-scented 


^^ 


A  -^ 


-4 


KHODODBN'DBON   WHITE   L.\DY  GROWN   FROM   SEED   SENT  TO   ENGLAND   FROM 
SIKKIM    BY   SIR  JOSEPH    HOOKHR  NEARLY   SIXTY   YEARS   AGO. 


and  the  Bourbon  Rose.  Within  the  last  ten  or 
fifteen  years,  however,  the  Hybrid  Tea  has  made 
giant  strides  ;  it  has  become  the  predominant 
class,  and,  like  some  powerful  nation  in  its 
dealing  with  petty  states,  has  been  reaching  out 
and  absorbing  in  itself  all  the  best  characteristics 
of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual,  the  Tea-scented  and 
the  Bourbon.  The  old  distinctions  are  rapidly 
becoming  obliterated,  and,  although  the  old 
classification  of  fifty  years  ago  exists  on  paper 
and  in  theory,  it  is  non-existent  in  practice. 

For  example,  can  any  rosarian  give  a  reason 
why  Hugh  Dickson,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  und 
M.  H.  Walsh  are  classified  as  Hybrid  Perpetuals? 
A  characteristic  of  the  true  Hybrid  Perpetual  is 
to  have  one  crop  of  good  flowers,  to  be  followed 
on  the  midsummer  growth  with  a  few  blooms  of 
decidedly  inferior  quality,  mere  echoes  of  the 
first.  The  plants  ripened  early,  and  by  the 
middle  of  September  the  blooming  season  was 
over.  Can  this  be  said  of  the  three  varieties 
above  mentioned  ?  And,  again,  take  Maman 
Cochet,  White  Maman  Coehet  and  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley.  What  grounds  are  there  for  determin- 
ing that  these  belong  to  the  Tea-scented  class  't 
If  perfume  be  the  chief  factor,  then  there  should 
surely  be  included  some  Hybrid  Teas  in  prefer- 
ence, and  these  three  would  with  difficulty 
survive  the  test.  In  addition  to  its  delicious 
fragrance  the  Tea-scented  Rose — the  race  of 
Dijon  Teas  apart — is  moderate  in  growth 
and  more  or  less  tender.  Is  this  a  feature 
of  these  three  varieties  ?  Notice  also  the 
confusion  that  arises  in  the  classification  of 
novelties.  Who  is  to  decide 
the  point  —  the  raiser,  who 
ought  to  be  credited  with  some 
knowledge  of  the  pedigree  of  a 
given  Pose,  the  growers  after 
distribution,  or  the  judges  of  new 
seedlings  V  Take  a  ease  in  point : 
Harry  Kirk  has  always  been 
described  by  the  raiser  as  a  Tea  ; 
the  ^^ational  Rose  Society  in 
its  Rose  Annual  agrees  with  the 
raiser  ;  and  yet  in  the  catalogues 
issued  by  several  of  the  leading 
trade  growers  this  Rose  is  placed 
among  the  Hybrid  Teas.  Would 
an  exhibit  of  twelve  exhibition 
Teas  be  disqualified  if  it  con- 
tained a  flower  of  Harry  Kirk  '; 

We  know,  also,  that  the  raiser 
himself  is  sometimes  in  doubt  as 
to  the  classification  of  a  seedling. 
If  my  memory  serves  me  correctly, 
Bessie  Brown  first  made  its 
appearance  in  public  in  the  Tea 
class,  and  the  late  Dean  Hole  at 
the  time  called  my  attention  to 
it.  The  raiser  subsequently  sent 
it  out  as  a  Hybrid  Tea.  And 
further,  there  is  trouble  ahead 
with  some  forthcoming  novel- 
ties. Raisers,  to  their  credit  be 
it  said,  are  striving  after  more 
yellow  Roses  ;  the  yellow  in  a 
Rose  is  derived  from  one  of  the 
original  progenitors  of  the  Tea- 
scented  Rose,  and  this  colour  in 
a  Rose  indicates  its  affinity.  But 
we  are  informed  the  Rose-growers 
in  the  States  regard  with  sus- 
picion as  to  its  hardiness  in  their 
climate  any  novelty  distributed 
as  a  Tea.  If  this  is  so,  then  may 
we  not  expect  that  raisers  with 
an  eye  to  the  American  trade 
will  send  out  as  Hybrid  Teas 
Roses  yellow  tinted  and  even 
possessing  a  Tea  perfume  ?  But 
one  need  not  labour  the  point ; 
the  confusion  of  classification  at 
present  existing  is  apparent  to 
all,  however  much  we  may  shut 
our  eyes  to  it.  The  question  is, 
Can  anything  be  done '! 


January  9,  1909.J 


THE    GAEDEN. 


19 


It  is  hard,  one  realises,  to  part  with  old  land- 
marks, to  relinquish  time-honoured  customs,  to 
obliterate  ancient  distinctions  ;  but  progress  often 
demands  a  sacrifice,  and  such  a  demand  must  be 
faced  when  existing  distinctions  are  artificial  or 
unreal.  Now  as  to  the  remedy.  The  first  step 
should  be  to  abolish  present  definitions  and 
amalgamate  the  three  classes  of  Hybrid  Per- 
petual, Tea-scentel  and  Hybrid  Tea  ;  classes  for 
Chinas,  Dwarf  Polyanthas  and  the  like  may  well 
remain  as  they  are.  The  next  step  should  be 
reconstructive,  the  classification  being  such  as 
would  indicate  the  general  usefulness  of  the  Rose. 
We  might  arrange  them  under  such  heads,  for 
example,  as  (1)  Specimen  Roses,  meaning 
thereby  Roses  whose  value  lies  principally  in  the 
beauty  of  the  individual  flower  as  staged  for 
exhibition.  (2)  Decorative  Roses.  —  Roses  not 
necessarily  free-flowering,  but  rather  such  as 
lend  themselves  as  cut  blooms  for 
the  decoration  of  the  house.  (3) 
Garden  Roses. — Those  which,  from 
their  freedom  in  flowering  and  their 
branching  habit,  are  suitable  for 
growing  in  the  garden.  (4)  Bedding 
Roses. — Roses  suitable  for  bedding 
and  massing,  compact  and  dwarf 
in  habit  and  free-flowering,  irre- 
spective of  individual  form. 

As  to  the  mode  in  which  these 
four  classes  sliould  be  brought 
before  the  public  at  exhibitions,  in 
the  first  and  second  divisions,  where 
the  quality  of  the  flower  is  the  first 
consideration,  the  Roses  should  be 
staged  in  exhibition  boxes,  and 
would  supersede  the  existing  classes 
of  general  exhibition  Roses  and  Teas, 
those  falling  within  the  third  and 
fourth  divisions  being  shown  in 
vases.  To  catalogue  the  Roses 
under  these  four  heads  does  not 
imply  that  they  are  suitable  only 
for  these  specified  purposes,  but 
rather  that  in  these  respects  is  to 
be  found  their  principal  feature,  ifj 

But  these  are  merely  suggestions. 
When  the  present  position  of  affairs 
is  realised,  and  the  step  to  be  taken 
agreed  upon,  it  will  be  for  experts 
to  solve  the  problem  of  a  new 
classification  of  perpetual-flowering 
~  Joseph  H.  Pemberton. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


A  SEEDLING  EHODODENDRON. 

(Raised  from  Seed  Sent  Home  from  Sikkim 
BY  Sir  Joseph  Hooker.) 

THE  illustration  of  Rhododendron 
White  Lady  on  page  18  is  from  a 
photograph  kindly  sent  to  us  by  Miss 
.  E.  Rieketts,  Foulis  Court,  Eastleigh, 
and  is  of  especial  interest  owing  to 
the  fact  that  it  was  one  of  several 
raised  from  seeds  that  were  sent  home  from 
Sikkim  by  Sir  Joseph  Hooker  in  the  early 
forties  of  the  last  century.  It  was,  however, 
grafted  on  to  another  stock.  As  the  plant  has 
become  too  large  for  an  ordinary  greenhouse, 
it  has  been  presented  to  the  Royal  Horticultural 


cage-like  structure.  Another  good  way  would  be 
to  plant  it  to  run  over  pergolas,  such  as  is  seen  in 
the  illustration,  and  with  Clematis  to  succeed 
the  Wistaria  the  effect  would  be  distinctly  good. 

A  BEAUTIFUL  AUTUMN-FLOWERING 
TREE. 

(Sophora  .taposica.  ) 
There  are  few  trees  flowering  during  the  months 
of  July  and  August,  and  fewer  still  brighten  the 
September  days.  However,  Sophora  japonica,  or 
Stypnolobium  japonicum,  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
is  included  among  these  few,  and  on  that  account 
should  be  extensively  grown  even  were  it  far  less 
beautiful  than  it  really  is.  The  Sophora  forms 
a  well-shaped  bushy  tree  30  feet  to  40  feet  high, 
and  of  similar  dimensions  in  thickness.  It- has 
light   green  leaves,  which  give  it  an  attractive 


ROSE   MARK    TWAIN. 

This     Rose,    which     comes    from 

America,  is  of  the  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant 

type ;  in  fact,  at  one  time  I  thought 

it    too    much     like    that     sort    to 

warrant     its     introduction     under 

another    name.       But    I    have 

watched  it  for  some  time  and  there 

is  certainly  a  distinction.     Its 

blooms  are  formed  with  quite  a  pointed  centre, 

and    the    edges    of   the   petals   are    white.      In 

some   of    the  petals   there  is  a  whitish   sufiii- 

sion,     which     is     very     beautiful.       The     main 

colour  resembles  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  perhaps  not 

quite  so  clear.  P. 


A   pergola  COYEllED    WITH  WISTARIA  IN   A   CORNISH   GARDEN. 


A  YELLOW-FLOWERED    MONTHLY 
ROSE. 

There  is  a  pretty  little  Rose  named  Arethusa, 
which  is  rapidly  gaining  in  favour,  for  it  is 
the  only  yellow  Rose  we  have  among  the  Chinas 
or  Monthlies.  Its  neat  sulphur  yellow  blooms 
are  very  freely  produced  upon  a  plant  quite  as 
vigorous  as  some  of  the  freest-growing  Tea  Roses. 
It  is  really  a  valuable  addition  to  a  very  interest- 
ing tribe,  which  has  been  much  beautified  of  late 
years  with  sueh  lovely  sorts  as  Comtesse  de 
Cayla,  Aurore,  Baronne  Piston  de  St.  Cyr, 
Charlotte  Klemm,  &c.  The  variety  Arethusa 
was  raised  by  Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Son  of 
Waltham  Cross.  P. 


Society    and    now   finds  a  home  in   one   of  the 
houses  at  Wisley. 

THE  WISTARIA. 
Wistaria  time  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant 
seasons  of  the  year.  A  few  noble  examples  may 
be  seen  in  the  suburbs  of  London,  especially  at 
Kew,  where  the  trees  must  be  a  great  age,  while 
quite  a  fine  plant  is  in  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew, 
also.  What  may  be  achieved  with  this  plant  if 
some  attention  to  its  needs  were  forthcoming  is 
not  clear,  for  most  of  the  Wistarias  we  see  from 
time  to  time  shift  for  themselves,  and  by  the 
position  they  occupy  must  have  large  numbers  of 
their  roots  in  dusty,  dry  soil.  In  former  days  it 
was  always  the  custom  to  plant  this  fine  climber 
at  the  base  of  the  dwelling-house  wall,  but  now, 
with  a  fuller  knowledge  of  its  robust  growth,  its 
widely  extending  branches,  and  equally  its 
wide-rooting  capacity,  other  positions  may  with 
advantage  be  secured  for  it.  One  example  may 
be  seen  at  Kew,  where  a  fine  plant  covers  a  huge 


appearance  even  when  it  is  not  in  bloom.  The 
Pea-shaped  flowers,  which  are  produced  in 
panicles  9  inches  long,  are  quite  small,  being  no 
more  than  half  an  inch  across.  They  are,  how- 
ever, produced  in  such  abundance  that  their 
diminutive  size  is  no  disadvantage.  L.  G. 

COTONEASTER  ROTUNDIFOLIA. 
This  Himalayan  species  is  a  particularly  orna- 
mental one  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the 
winter,  for  it  fruits  well  and  the  berries  usually 
last  until  the  spring  months.  Curiously,  birds 
do  not  interfere  with  the  berries  of  this  species 
while  other  food  is  obtainable,  but  the  fruit  of 
some  species  of  Cotoneaster  is  cleared  off  as  soon 
as  it  is  ripe.  C.  rotundifolia  grows  3  feet  to 
4  feet  high  and  forms  a  spreading  bush  many 
feet  across.  The  main  branches  are  well  fur- 
nished with  secondary  branchlets,  though  it  is 
not  sueh  a  dense-growing  plant  as  some  of  the 
others.  The  flowers  are  white  and  are  borne 
during  May.    The  fruits  are  red  when  ripe.     D. 


20 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[January  9,  1909. 


G^RT>ENING     FOR     BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FRUIT  GARDEN.— The  pruning  of 
Apples,  Peare,  Currants  and  other 
hardy  fruits  must  be  pushed  on  now 
as  rapidly  as  possible,  as  plenty  of 
other  work  will  soon  be  cropping  up 
in  all  departments.  Where  large 
branches  have  to  be  removed,  take  care  to  smooth 
the  cut  over  with  a  very  sharp  knife  and  then 
paint  the  wound  with  coal-tar  ;  this  will  keep 
wet  and  also  fungoid  pests  out.  It  is  also 
essential  that  the  branch  be  cut  o6f  as  close  to 
its  base  as  possible  ;  snags  must  not  be  left,  as 
apart  from  being  unsightly  the  wounds  on  these 
do  not  heal  properly.  With  young,  one  year  old 
lateral  or  side  growths,  this  latter  statement 
does  not  apply,  as  these  are  frequently  needed  to 
form  spurs,  and  to  induce  them  to  do  this  the 
shoots  are  cut  so  as  to  leave  a  piece  of  sufficient 
length  to  possess  three  or  four  good  buds.  The 
leading  shoots  of  young  trees,  i.e.,  those  which 
will  eventually  form  the  main  branches,  should 
only  be  cut  back  sufficiently  to  get  well  into 
plump  wood.  Always  cut  close  to  the  topmost 
bud  that  is  left,  and  this  bud  must  be  chosen  so 
as  to  point  in  the  direction  that  the  subsequent 
growth  is  intended  to  go. 

Vef/etable  Oarden. — It  is  time  now  to  make  a 
sowing  of  Onions  under  glass  where  exhibition 
bulbs  are  desired.  Use  a  box  about  3  inches  deep 
for  the  purpose,  and  this  should  have  several  good- 
sized  holes  in  the  bottom  so  that  superfluous 
water  can  escape.  Over  these  place  an  inch  thick 
layer  of  crocks,  then  a  little  rough  soil,  and  then 
fill  up  with  the  finely-sifted  oortipost,  which 
should  consist  of  good  loam  one  part  and  leaf- 
mould  and  sharp  sand  half  a  part  each.  Make 
this  moderately  firm  and  scatter  the  seeds  thinly 
over  the  surface,  covering  them  with  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  layer  of  fine  soil  and  water  with  a  fine- 
rosed  can.  Stand  the  box  in  a  warm  greenhouse 
or  frame,  and  as  soon  as  the  seedlings  appear 
keep  them  near  the  glass.  When  they  are  about 
H  inches  high,  each  must  be  potted  singly  into 
•2J-ineh  pots,  kept  in  a  close  atmosphere  until 
established  and  then  gradually  inured  to  more  air 
and  so  hardened  ready  for  planting  out  in  April. 

Oreenhoiise. — The  present  is  a  good  time  to 
insert  cuttings  of  the  now  popular  perpetual- 
flowering  Carnations.  Select  young  side  growths 
about  .3  inches  long  and  slip  them  ofl' with  a  heel, 
which  may  need  smoothing  over  a  little  with  a 
keen-edged  knife  if  ragged.  Well  drain  a 
number  of  .5-inch  pots,  and  fill  these  with  clean 


I. — AN  0r,D  CHRYSANTHEMUM  PLANT  OR  "STOOL" 
WHICH  HAS  BEEN  CUT  DOWN  AFTER 
FLOWERING.  CUTTINGS  CAN  BE  MADE 
FROM    THE    NEW   GROWTHS   SHOWN. 


silver  sand  and  make  it  firm.  Into  this,  and 
close  to  the  sides  of  the  pot,  four  or  five  cuttings 
may  be  planted,  making  holes  IJ  inches  deep 
with  a  blunt  stick  and  taking  care  that  ths  base 
of  each  cutting  rests  on  the  sand  at  the  bottom 
of  the  hole.  Make  the  sand  firm  round  the  base 
of  each  cutting,  water  in,  and  then  plunge  the 
pots  in  some  Cocoanut  fibre  refuse  where  a 
bottom  temperature  of  about  50"  can  be  main- 
tained. Treated  thus  the  cuttings  will  quickly 
root,  when  they  may  be  potted  off  singly  into 
small  pots. 

Plants  in  Rooms.  — Special  care  will  be  needed 
at  this  period  to  maintain  these  in  good  health, 
as  the  temperature  will  usually  be  low  and  the 
atmosphere  of  the  rooms  none  too  good  owing  to 
the  amount  of  gas  that  is  consumed.  Any  plants 
that  are  not  quite  hardy,  and  which  are  standing 
in  rooms  where  fires  are  seldom  made,  should  at 
least  be  placed  in  warmer  quarters  every  night, 
and  during  very  cold  weather  they  must  remain 
in  the  warmer  temperature  during  the  daytime 
also.  Keep  all  foliage  thoroughly  clean,  onlj-  give 
water  when  the  soil  is  really  dry,  and  then  use 
that  which  has  been  slightly  warmed.  Do  not 
on  any  account  repot  the  general  run  of  room  or 
window  plants  now. 

Flower  Garden. — Little  can  be  done  here  except 
to  push  on  any  digging  or  trenching  not  com- 
pleted. During  very  severe  frosts  protect  newly- 
planted  Roses  and  other  shrubs  with  some  light 
material.  After  frosts  it  is  wise  to  look  over 
newly-planted  subjects,  as  these  frequently  get 
loosened  owing  to  the  expansion  of  the  water  in 
the  soil  ;  in  such  cases  the  latter  must  be 
promptly  made  firm  around  their  roots. 

Cold  Frames. — Continue  to  remove  any  de- 
cayed foliage  from  the  plants  standing  in  these, 
and  give  plenty  of  air  whenever  the  weather  is 
fine  and  the  temperature  a  few  degrees  above 
freezing  point.  A  layer  of  long  manure,  spent 
tan  or  Cocoanut  fibre  refuse  banked  well  round 
the  sides  of  these  frames  will  do  much  to  keep 
the  cold  out  during  the  severe  weather  we  may 
now  expect.  H. 


PROPAGATION    OF   CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
BY  CUTTINGS. 

There  is  no  better  period  for  propagating  the 
Chrysanthemum  than  during  the  month  of 
•January.  There  should  always  be  a  lapse  of 
time — a  week  or  two  at  least — between  the  close 
of  the  flowering  period  and  the  date  of  recom- 
mencing operations  for  another  year.  By  these 
means  opportunity  is  afforded  the  plants  of 
getting  back  in  a  good  state  of  health,  which  is 
very  necessary  when  they  have  been  fed  with 
strong  manures  to  assist  in  developing  big 
blooms.  Many  of  the  plants,  too,  have  got  into 
a  somewhat  debilitated  condition,  due  largely  to 
the  artificial  conditions  in  which  they  have  been 
growing  for  some  months  past.  How  to  proceed 
with  the  work  is,  of  course,  the  beginner's  first 
concern.  It  may  be  that  the  plants  have  not 
been  cut  down  since  they  have  finished  flowering. 
Should  this  be  so,  proceed  at  once  to  deal  with 
them.  Cut  the  stems  of  the  old  plants  down  to 
within  4  inches  or  6  inches  of  their  base.  This 
is  the  rule  with  plants  that  show  a  disposition  to 
break  freely  into  fresh  growth  at  their  bases. 
There  are  instances,  however,  where  the  plants 
are  less  disposed  to  do  this,  and  for  this  reason 
cuttings  have  to  be  procured  from  the  old  stem. 
A  rather  longer  portion  of  the  old  stem,  say, 
1  foot  to  18  inches,  should  be  retained  in  such 
cases. 


Plants,  when  cut  down,  should  be  as  seen  in 
Fig.  1.  Here  will  be  noticed  the  vigorous  new 
growths.  Such  cut-back  plants  should  be 
accorded  a  position  on  the  greenhouse  bench,  or, 
better  still,  on  shelves  near  to  the  glass.  A  light 
and  airy  position  in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  coc; 
servatory  is  best  suited  to  them  in  the  dull 
months  of  the  year. 

There  may  be  a  doubt  in  some  minds  as  to 
what  are  the  proper  cuttings  to  procure  for 
these  old  stools,  as  they  are  generally  termed. 
Cuttings  differ  in  their  character,  and  there 
are  bad  cuttings  as  well  as  good  ones.  To 
simplify  this  matter  Fig.  2  should  serve 
a  useful  purpose.  Here  are  portrayed  two 
examples  of  bad  cuttings,  because  of  the  small 
flower-buds  at  their  apices.  Cuttings  of  this 
description  never  grow  away  freely.  Instead  of 
making  growth  they  endeavour  to  develop  their 
flower-buds,  in  consequence  of  which  fact  it  is 
next  to  impossible  to  make  useful  plants.  In 
Fig.  3  are  three  cuttings  without  these  flower- 
buds  and  prepared  ready  for  insertion.  Note 
how  the  lower  leaves  have  been  removed.  Were 
the.se    retained   they  would  very  soonj[flag  and 


2. — TWO      EXAMPLE.?      (IF     BAD     ClITTINC^S.         NOTE 
THE    SMALL    FLOWER-BUDS    IN    THE    APEX 

oi   each. 

decay,  causing  the  cutting  to  fail.  For  this 
reason  they  are  trimmed  off  with  a  sharp  knife 
close  to  the  stem  of  the  cutting  itself.  Further, 
the  stem  of  the  cutting  is  cut  straight  through 
immediately  below  a  joint.  A  joint  is  that 
portion  of  the  stem  of  the  cutting  where  the 
leaf -stalk  adheres  to  it,  from  which  it  derives  its 
sustenance.  Cuttings  should  be  about  3  inches 
in  length,  more  or  less,  and  should  be  growths  of 
recentdevelopment,  free  from  buds  at  their  apices. 
The  best  cuttings  are  usually  procured  at  some 
little  distance  from  the  portion  of  the  old  stem 
that  was  retained  when  the  plant  was  cut  down. 
They  push  their  way  through  the  surface 
soil.  More  often,  however,  the  cuttings  have 
to  be  taken  from  the  immediate  base  of  the  old 
plant. 

Boxes  some  3  inches  or  less  in  depth  answer 
the  purpose  of  propagation  very  well.  We 
prefer  rather  more  shallow  boxes,  say,  those 
'2  inches  deep,  as  there  is  always  a  tendency  for 
the  compost  to  become  soured  until  roots  are 
working  through  it.  Pots  may  also  be  used 
advantageously.  Those  3  inches  or  5  inches  in 
diameter  answer  very  well,  and  a  number 
of  cuttings  may  be  inserted  around  the  edge 
of  these.  Suitable  compost  for  raising  Chry- 
santhemums from  cuttings  is  not  difficult  to 
procure.  Loam  of  a  fibrous  nature  is  an  essential 
factor,  and  of  this  there  should  be  taken  two 
parts  and  of  leaf-mould  and  coarse  silver  sand 
each  one  part.     Pass  these   ingredients  through 


Janx'aky  9,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


21 


3. — GOOD  SH(JOTS  MADE  INTO  CUTTINGS  BEADY 
FOR  INSERTION.  NOTE  THAT  THE  LOWER 
LEAVES    HAVE    BEEN    REMOVED. 

a  sieve  with  a  half-inch  mesh,  and  then  give 
the  heap  a  thorough  mixing.  Prepare  the 
compost  a  few  days  before  it  is  actually 
required,  and  turn  the  heap  over  each  day  in 
the  interval. 

Crook  the  pots  and  boxes  with  care,  placing 
a  good  layer  of  potsherds  in  the  bottom  of  each 
receptacle  that  good  and  efficient  drainage  may 
be  ensured.  Cover  the  crocks  with  some  of  the 
rougher  sittings  of  the  compost,  and  proceed  then 
to  fill  in  the  compost  to  the  rim  of  the  pots  or 
boxes.  Carefully  level  and  subsequently  place  a 
layer  of  silver  sand  on  the  surface  soil.  Insert  the 
cuttings  in  boxes  in  rows,  starting  first  with  a 
label  giving  the  name  of  the  variety  being  dealt 
with.  About  IJ  inches  deep,  2  inches  or  rather 
less  apart,  and  2  inches  between  the  rows  will 
answer  very  well.  Use  a  small  dibber  about  the 
size  and  substance  of  a  Cedar-wood  pencil,  making 
holes  with  this.  Silver  sand  will  be  carried  into 
the  bottom  of  each  hole  by  these  means,  and  on 
this  the  base  of  the  cutting  must  rest.  This  is 
very  important.  Also  press  the  soil  firmly  at  the 
base  of  each  cutting,  so  that  it  does  not  "  hang  " 
suspended.  This  is  important  with  cuttings 
inserted  in  boxes  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  4. 
Observe  the  same  rule  when  pots  are  used. 
Water  in  with  clean  water  from  a  fine-rosed  can, 
and  after  leaving  the  boxes,  ifec. ,  for  a  time  to 
drain,  place  them  on  the  greenhouse  bench  in  a 
temperature  of  from  45°  to  50°.  Small  frames 
or  large  boxes  to  answer  the  same  purpose,  the 
latter  covered  with  sheets  of  glass,  make  excel- 
lent propagating  apparatus  so  long  as  too 
close  conditions  do  not  prevail ;  the  cuttings 
should  be  rooted  within  a  month  or  so.  Remove 
decaying  foliage  from  time  to  time  and  keep  the 
soil  just  moist.  Cold  frames  may  be  used,  but 
adequate  protection  in  severe  weather  must  be 
provided.  Boxes  in  spare  rooms  or  windows  in  a 
warm  aspect  may  be  utilised  for  propagating  the 
Chrysanthemum  very  successfully. 

As  soon  as  rooted,  give  the  plants  a  cool  and 
airy  position  in  the  greenhouse,  and  subsequently 
place  them  in  the  cold  frame  outdoors  to  be 
potted  up  as  they  demand  more  root  room. 


THK  TREATMENT  OF  WINDOW  PLANTS. 

Window  plants  require  very  careful  treatment 
during  the  winter  season.  Fine  specimens,  the 
result  of  good  cultivation  in  the  summer,  may 
soon  be  spoiled  by  overwatering,  feeding  with 
strong  liquid  manure  at  a  time  when  the  roots 
are  not  very  active,  and  undue  exposure  to  a 
frosty  air. 

Fuchsias  grown  in  greenhouses  are  generally 
rested,  that  is,  kept  dry  at  the  roots  in  the 
winter  ;  but  when  these  plants  are  treated  as 
window  specimens  they  are  rarely  rested,  but 
kept   growing   throughout    the    winter    season. 


They  may  be  so  treated,  but  very  great  care 
should  be  taken  in  the  matter  of  watering. 

Zoiml  Pelargcmiums.  — Old  specimens  are  more 
easily  wintered  in  good  condition  than  young 
ones,  simply  because  the  wood  of  the  former  is 
harder  and  the  pots  fuller  of  roots.  These  plants 
are  very  impatient  of  much  watering,  and  it  is 
safer  to  keep  them  rather  dry  than  too  moist ; 
but  when  water  is  needed  sufficient  should  be 
given  to  saturate  the  whole  of  the  soil  in  the  pot — 
surface  sprinklings  are  harmful.  Furthermore, 
the  plants  should  not  be  watered  and  the  pots 
left  afterwards  in  the  saucers  which  are  filled 
with  the  surplus  water.  Empty  the  saucers 
immediately.  If  they  contain  water  constantly 
the  soil  in  the  lower  part  of  the  pot  soon  becomes 
sour,  and  the  roots  of  the  plants  in  that  portion 
of  the  soil  perish. 

Pruning  and  Repotting. — The  longest  stems 
on  Zonal  Pelargoniums  may  be  out  back  in 
February  and  inserted  as  cuttings  in  a  sandy 
compost  in  small  pots.  Fuchsias  may  be  cut 
back  similarly,  but  the  shoots  of  the  harder  wood 
will  not  do  for  making  into  cuttings.  When  the 
old  plants  commence  to  break  into  new  growth 
they  should  be  potted.  The  seared  fronds  of 
Ferns  should  be  cut  off,  not  pulled  out,  and  when 
young  fronds  show  repot  those  plants  that 
require  it  towards  the  end  of  February. 


HOW  TO  PRUNE  VINES. 

Aja.  Grape  Vines  should  be  finally  pruned  either 
just  before  Christmas  or  early  in  January.  I  say 
the  final  pruning  should  be  done,  as  it  is  always 
advisable  to  partially  cut  back  the  shoots  in  the 
autumn — about  the  end  of  October — to  admit 
more  light  and  air  to  the  remaining  portion  to 
ripen  it  thoroughly. 

The  whole  of  each  Vine  should  be  pruned  at 
one  time,  that  is,  on  the  same  day  ;  then  the 
buds  will  break  into  new  growth  in  a  regular 
manner. 

Prune  back  to  two  eyes  ;  this  is  the  safest 
plan  for  a  beginner,  as  afterwards  the  best  new 
resultant  shoot  can  be  retained  and  the  weakest 
one  rubbed  oil  while  quite  young.  A  thin, 
pointed  bud  either  does  not  contain  an  embryo 
bunch  of  Grapes  or  a  very  small  one.  A  plump  bud 
near  the  base  of  the  shoot  mostly  contains  an 
embryo  bunch  which  will,  in  due  course,  develop 
into  a  fine  cluster  of  fruit. 

A  rounded  bud  several  inches  from  the  base 
of  the  branch  generally  produces  a  large,  loosely- 
shaped  bunch  of  Grapes. 

Use  a  sharp  knife  when  pruning  the  Vines, 
and  be  careful  not  to  cut  off  the  branch  too 
close  to  the  bud  or  ' '  eye. "  On  quite  young 
Vines  the  current  year's  growth  of  the  leader 
should  be  left  IS  inches  long,  the  end  portion 
beyond  being  cut  off.  Avon. 


[4- — CnTTIKGS   INSERTED   IN   ROWS   IN   A    ROX. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

New  Lawns.— Undoubtedly  the  autumn  is  the 
best  time  for  laying  down  turves,  but  it  is  not 
always  convenient  to  do  the  work  then,  and  every 
effort  should  be  made  to  get  it  done  now  without 
delay.  Of  course,  in  towns  it  is  not  possible  to 
procure  turf  of  any  kind  as  easily  as  in  the 
country,  but  the  best  turf  should  be  used, 
as  it  would  be  very  unwise  to  lay  down  that 
which  is  unsuitable.  I  inspected  some  turf  quite 
recently  that  was  being  used  for  the  making  of 
new  lawns  and  the  facing  of  banks,  and  presum- 
ably it  was  regarded  as  grass  turf,  but  it 
resembled  rolls  of  moss  more  than  anything  else. 
The  first  hot  spell  of  weather  would  burn  up  the 
moss  and  then  a  bare  lawn  and  a  bare  bank  would 
result  and — disappointment.  Owners  of  town 
gardens  who  intend  to  lay  down  new  turf  should 
first  inspect  a  few  turves  and  then  insist  upon 
having  all  as  good  as  the  sample.  A  good  turve 
should  be  cut  about  IJ  inches  thick,  possess 
plenty  of  fibre — that  is,  it  should  be  tough— and 
the  grass  must  be  of  fine  growth,  not  coarse,  and 
close.  Many  blades  of  grass  are  better  than  a 
few  only.  There  should  not  be  any  moss  in  the 
turves.  I  recently  inspected  some  lawns  in  a 
large  town ;  the  weather  was  very  hot  and 
had  been  so  for  a  long  period,  but  the  grass  was 
beautifully  green.  Surrounding  these  lawns  the 
shrubs,  trees  and  hedges  were  covered  with  soot 
from  factory  chimneys.  If  properly  managed 
lovely  lawns  may  be  obtained  in  any  town.  The 
ground  must  be  deeply  dug  and  all  roots  of  shrubs, 
trees  and  other  kinds  of  plants  extracted  where 
they  are  found,  also  roots  of  weeds.  Clean 
ground  free  from  such  roots  does  not  require 
to  be  deeply  dug.  If  poor  in  quality  some 
well-rotted  manure  should  be  put  in  at  the 
time  of  digging.  The  soil  must  be  levelled  and 
allowed  to  settle  down  somewhat  before  turves 
are  laid. 

How  TO  Cover  Ugly  Walls.— These  are 
mostly  to  be  found  on  the  north,  north-east  and 
north-west  of  garden  enclosures,  and  when  only 
a  few  stunted  stems  of  climbing  plants  are  left  on 
them  their  appearance  is  the  reverse  of  beautiful. 
Such  walls  can,  however,  be  made  objects  of 
beauty.  In  the  first  place  the  soil  near  them 
should  be  attended  to;  trench  it  and  put  in  some 
manure,  then  a  number  of  suitable  plants,  of 
which  the  following  is  a  choice  selection : 
Bridgesia  spicata,  a  dense,  vigorous  evergreen 
climber,  very  hardy  and  covers  a  wall  as  quickly 
as  Ivy ;  Ceanothus  divarioatus,  Cotoneaster 
miorophylla,  Crataegus  Pyracantha  (the  Fire 
Thorn),  Cydonia  japonioa  (Japanese  Quince), 
which  bears  scarlet  flowers,  and  the  white-flowered 
variety,  C.  japonica  alba,  forms  a  beautiful  con- 
trast. In  addition  to  the  above.  Honeysuckles, 
Jasminum  officinalis  (white  flowered)  J.  nudi- 
florum  (yellow  flowers,  produced  in  winter) 
and  Ampelopsis  in  variety  may  be  planted.  All 
of  these  may  be  termed  permanent  climbers,  and 
there  are  various  kinds  of  annual  climbers  which 
can  easily  be  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  pots  in 
spring-time.  Small,  well-shaped  specimens  are 
the  best  to  plant ;  they  are  not  costly  and  soon 
furnish  a  wall  from  the  base  upwards. 

The  Herbaceous  Border. — Herbaceous  plants 
are  very  valuable  for  town  gardens.  The  flowers 
are  most  beautiful,  the  plants  withstanding  hard 
treatment  and  giving  splendid  returns  from  good 
culture.  From  a  nice  collection  of  plants  flowers 
may  be  had  during  nine  months  out  of  the  twelve. 
Old  clumps  should  now  be  lifted  and  divided,  the 
soil  dug,  enriched  with  manure  and  the  different 
portions  of  the  clumps  replanted.  Too  often  an 
attempt  is  made  to  grow  both  these  border  plants 
and  shrubs  in  the  same  border  indiscriminately, 
and  failure  in  such  circumstances  is  sure  to 
result.  Both  kinds  of  plants  may  be  grown  in 
the  same  border,  but  each  must  have  its  allotted 
position.  The  shrubs  should  occupy  the  back 
part  of  the  border  and  the  herbaceous  subjects  the 
front.  Avon. 


9'7 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  9,  I'JOO. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

SOME  of  the  operations  which  may  be 
pushed  forward  in  this  department  of 
the  garden  in  mild,  open  weather  are 
making  new  beds,  altering  and  levelling 
lawns  and  top-dressing  the  same  with 
fine  soil  and  decayed  manure.  Good 
dressings  with  soot,  wood  ashes,  bone-meal  or 
Clay's  Fertilizer  will  greatly  assist  the  growth 
and  colour  of  the  grass  during  the  coming 
summer. 

Bedding  Plants. — Examine  all  of  these  required 
for  the  coming  season,  and  where  deficiencies  are 
likely  to  occur  preparations  should  be  made  to 
meet  the  requirements,  either  by  means  of 
cuttings  or  seeds. 

Sweet  Peas. — If  not  already  sown  in  the  open, 
a  quantity  may  be  put  in  small  pots  and  gently 
forwarded  under  glass.  The  pots  should  be 
given  a  position  near  the  glass  and  the  seedlings 
not  unduly  forced. 

Hardy  Fruits. 
Although  November  is  the  best  month  to  plant, 
root-prune,  and  take  up  bodily  trees  which  may 
be  making  too  coarse  growth,  the  operation 
can  be  successfully  carried  on  till  the  month  of 
March.  In  the  case  of  fruit  planting,  every  care 
should  be  taken  in  the  selection  of  suitable 
varieties  to  meet  the  demand.  Those  of  good 
quality  and  productiveness,  that  will  maintain  a 
long,  unbroken  supply,  should  be  obtained 
from  a  reliable  firm,  nothing  being  more  annoy- 
ing than  after  waiting  a  few  years  to  find  they 
are  not  true  to  name. 

Apples. — A  few  good  varieties  will  be  found  in 
the  following  :  Dessert — Red  Quarrenden,  Irish 
Peach,  James  Grieve,  Kerry  Pippin,  Worcester 
Pearmain,  King  of  the  Pippins,  Egremont  Russet, 
Ribston  Pippin,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin,  AUington 
Pippin,  Lord  Burghley.  Duke  of  Devonshire  and 
Scarlet  Nonpareil.  Kitchen  varieties  —  Lord 
Derby,  Ecklinville  Seedling,  Golden  Noble, 
Warner's  King,  Lane's  Prince  Albert,  Wellington, 
Newton  Wonder,  Winter  Greening  and  Bramley's 
Seedling.  All  of  these  will  succeed  either  as 
standard  or  bush  trees. 

Bush  trees  to  be  profitable  should  not  be  too 
crowded  ;  if  by  the  sides  of  walks  they  might  be 
set  out  at  12  feet  to  14  feet  apart,  so  that  each 
tree  may  grow  into  good  shape  and  receive  ample 
air  and  light  to  encourage  sturdy,  fruitful  wood. 
Vegetable  Garden. 
No  time  should  be  lost  in  going  carefully  over 
che  seed  saved  and  preparing  the  order  for  the 
coming  season's  supply.  Beginners  ought  to  be 
somewhat  careful  not  to  order  recklessly. 

Trenching  and  digging  deeply  all  vacant  plots 
must  be  pushed  forward  on  all  favourable 
occasions.  Turning  up  the  soil  deeply,  with 
plenty  of  good  manure  added,  will  assist  the 
plants  greatly  in  very  dry  weather.  It  will  be  a 
great  assistance  to  any  gardener,  with  many 
other  matters  of  importance  on  his  mind,  to  have 
a  fixed  rotation  for  the  principal  crops  on  the 
different  quarters  into  which  the  majority  of 
kitchen  gardens  are  divided,  and  prepare  the 
land  accordingly. 

Asparayus. — These  roots  should  be  taken  up 
in  sufficient  quantities  to  meet  the  demand. 
They  readily  force  in  a  temperature  of  55° 
to  60°  if  placed  on  properly-prepared  beds 
with  a  bottom-heat  of  70°  to  80".  The  roots  can 
be  placed  thickly  side  by  side  and  covered  up 
with  a  little  soil  or  leaf-mould.  The  Grass  ought 
to  be  ready  in  three  weeks. 

H.  Mabkham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park,  Barnel. 


FOR  THE  NORTH  AND  NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit-forcing  Dktartment. 
Vines  started  in  November  will  now  have 
growths  visible.  If  the  points  of  the  rods  were 
depressed,  to  ensure  an  even  break  throughout 
their  lengths,  these  may  now  be  tied  in  their 
places,  and  in  such  a  manner  that  fully  18  inches 
of  space  remains  between  them  and  the  roof 
glass.  Disbudding  may  be  commenced  whenever 
a  few  leaves  unfold  ;  if  done  earlier  bleeding  and 
its  ill  results  are  likely  to  ensue.  The  mild 
weather  has  favoured  forcing,  and  the  approved 
temperatures  have  been  easily  maintained  with- 
out the  need  of  excessive  fire-heat.  From  now 
onwards  until  the  bunches  show  and  prepare  to 
spread  a  night  temperature  of  60°  is  ample.  A 
substantial  rise  throughout  the  day,  by  sun-heat 
if  possible,  should  be  encouraged.  On  bright 
days  a  light  dewing  overhead  with  tepid  water 
will  assist  growth  and  stimulate  backward  buds, 
while  the  damping  of  pathways  and  borders  must 
be  regulated  by  outside  atmospheric  influences. 

Strawberries. — To  have  ripe  fruit  early  in 
March  the  flower-trusses  should  now  be  showing, 
and  previous  to  blooms  opening  the  plants  may 
with  advantage  be  rearranged,  placing  the 
earliest  where  sun,  light  and  air  are  most  readily 
obtainable.  Mildew  attacks  are  more  prevalent 
in  some  places  than  in  others,  and  if  past 
experience  prompts  preventive  measures  being 
taken,  the  foliage  may  be  lightly  sprayed  and 
afterwards  dusted  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  more 
especially  on  the  under-side.  At  the  same  time 
any  surface-dressing  or  washing  of  pots  con- 
sidered necessary  should  be  carried  out.  As 
flowers  open  a  soft  brush  passed  from  one  to  the 
other  will  distribute  the  pollen  and  thus  ensure 
fertilisation.  In  the  majority  of  gardens  the 
first  ripe  Strawberries  are  expected  probably  at 
Easter,  and  owing  to  its  lateness  this  year  the 
accomplishment  of  this  will  not  be  difficult.  The 
present  is  a  good  time  to  make  a  selection  of  the 
most  promising  plants  from  the  plunge-bed,  and 
after  close  examination  for  slugs  or  worms  in  the 
soil,  should  these  have  obtained  ingress,  place 
them  in  gentle  warmth. 

Forcing  Vegetables. 

To  keep  up  the  supply  of  forced  produce 
inaugurated  at  Christmas  or  earlier  requires  close 
and  frequent  attention.  Seakale,  Rhubarb  and 
Chicory  will  from  this  time  onward  grow  fast 
enough  in  the  Mushroom  house,  to  which  fresh 
supplies  of  roots  should  be  introduced  every 
fortnight.  A  regular  succession  in  the  supply  of 
produce  is  of  much  importance,  and  this  is  more 
likely  to  be  maintained  when  moderate  tempera- 
tures are  employed.  A  few  boxes  of  Mint  and 
Tarragon  roots  will  provide  supplies  for  a  long 
time  if  not  subjected  to  excessive  heat,  which 
causes  a  spindling  growth.  Unlike  most  plants,  it 
will  be  found,  when  lifting  the  former  from 
the  open,  if  the  long,  slender  roots  are  separated 
and  then  placed  in  boxes  and  covered  with 
2  inches  of  soil,  that  growth  is  more  speedy  and 
stronger  than  would  be  the  case  from  clumps. 
Hardy    Fruit. 

Pruning  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  and  bushes, 
with  the  exception  of  Peaches,  Nectarines  and 
Figs,  should  be  forwarded  whenever  the  weather 
permits.  Gooseberries  are  often  attacked  by 
sparrows  and  most  of  the  buds  destroyed.  To 
prevent  this  the  bushes  after  pruning  may  be 
dusted  with  powdered  lime  when  damp  ;  or,  if 
preferred,  the  same  made  into  a  thin  wash  to 
which  soft  soap  or  a  little  paraffin  is  added  and 
applied  with  a  syringe  on  a  dry  day  has  a  still 
more  lasting  effect.  Where  it  is  deemed  neces- 
sary to  protect  Fig  trees  from  frost,  branches  of 
Spruce,  Douglas  Fir  or  other  evergreen  should  be 
obtained  and  held  in  readiness.  So  long  as 
mildness  prevails  the  trees  are  best  exposed. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

Oalloway  House,  Garlieston,  W igtomnshire. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  A.nBvrevB*—The  Editor  inUixda 
to  make  THB  Gakden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  rw  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  colum/n.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  turitten  on  <me  side. 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
Garden,  90,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHER 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Infopmation    about    Lilies    (^Mi'ss 

Denisoii). — The  only  group  of  Lilies  which  in 
growth  and  habit  resembles  Lilium  crooeum  is 
L.  umbellatum,  also  known  as  L.  davuricum. 
This  group  contains  no  variety  with  scarlet 
flowers,  however,  and  the  nearest  approach 
thereto  is  a  variety  called  L.  u.  incoraparabile, 
the  flowers  of  which  are  dark  red.  The  varieties 
of  this  group  grow  about  2  feet  high,  are  very 
sturdy  and  erect  in  habit,  the  plants  flowering 
in  June  and  .July.  The  flowers  are  erect  as  in 
the  orange  Lily  (L.  crooeum). 
HepbaceouB  border   (Antoine  M. 

Slam). — It  is  usual  in  England  to  employ  only 
plants  of  a  perennial  character  in  a  herbaceous 
border,  whereas  in  the  mixed  border  perennials, 
annuals,  and  biennials  are  used  frequently  in 
conjunction  with  such  tender  perennials  as  Dah- 
lias, Salvias  and  other  things.  The  herbaceous 
border  of  the  past  has  been  regarded  as  of  a  more 
or  less  permanent  adjunct  to  the  garden,  whereas 
the  mixed  border  by  the  very  nature  of  its  con- 
tents must,  in  the  main,  be  arranged  afresh  each 
year.  In  England  there  is  no  limit  as  to  the 
variety  of  things  that  may  be  employed,  the 
majority  favouring  a  free  use  of  the  more  showy 
or  useful  subjects  of  distinct  colour  shades,  and 
arranging  these  in  irregular  groups  of  from  2  feet 
to  6  feet  across. 
Plants  for  a  bed  (A.  R.  i.).— In  the 

bed  facing  west  you  might  plant  Roses,  Carna- 
tions, Lilies  and  Daffodils  in  variety.  Of  Roses, 
use  Caroline  Testout,  La  France,  Mrs.  Grant, 
Frau  Karl  Drusohki,  liichmond,  Hon.  Edith 
Gilford  and  Viscountess  Folkestone  ;  of  Carna- 
tions, Old  Clove,  Duchess  of  Fife,  Miss  Audrey 
Campbell,  Mrs.  Nicholson  and  Queen  of  Bedders ; 
and  of  Lilies,  umbellatum  vars. ,  eroceum,  testa- 
eeum,  tigrinum  in  variety  and  speciosum  rubrum. 
You  could,  if  you  have  room — for  you  do  not  say 
the  size  of  the  bed — plant  a  variety  of  Narcissus 
also,  including  such  sorts  as  Emperor,  Empress, 
Golden  Spur,  ornatus  and  Sir  Watkin.  In  the 
dry  border  under  the  fruit  trees  you  will  find  Flag 
Irises  in  variety,  Megasea  eordifolia  purpurea, 
Muscaria  conicum,  the  Spanish  bulbous  Irises  and 
Lilium  candidum  very  much  at  home,  and  by 
deep  digging  of  the  soil  and  cutting  away  all 
tree-roots  within  a  few  feet  of  the  trees  the 
above-named  plants  would  do  quite  well. 

Plants  fop  tank  {LnnraMer). — We  think  yuur  beat 
plan  will  lie  to  use  free-growing  subjects  that  would  drape 
and  hide  the  formal  margin.  Such  things  as  Thymus 
lanuginosus,  Mossy  .saxifrages,  Hedums  of  s<  >rts,  Campanula 
pumila  alba,  C.  muralis,  C.  pulla,  C.  gargauica,  Erinua, 
any  of  the  Aubrietias  and  the  hardy,  free-growing  alpine 
Phloxes  would  do  well  and  require  but  a  small  amount  of 
soil.  By  inserting  tiny  hits  of  plants  freely  among  the 
stones,  the  young  plants  would  presently  take  care  of 
themselves. 

Lilium  grlgranteum  falUngr  (.E.  M.  InrjKs).— The 
failure  is  entirely  due  to  making  a  start  with  the  wrong 
material,  viz.,  bulbs  of  too  large  a  size.  In  the  majority 
of  instances  Lily  bulbs  of  large,  or  even  the  largest,  size 
are  desirable  and,  indeed,  much  sought  after  ;  but  in  this 
particular  instance  it  is  a  mistake  and  one  calculated  to 
give  a  good  deal  of  disappointment.     You  have  obviously 


January  9,  1909.] 


THE     GAKDEN. 


23 


planted  lowering  bulbs,  believing,  a3  many  do,  that  they 
are  the  best.  Ab  a  matter  of  fact,  Lilium  giganteum 
should  be  planted  when  about  half  grown,  or,  say,  three 
years  old  from  the  seed.  The  bulb  usually  takes  from  six  to 
eight  years  before  reaching  the  flowering  stage,  and  the 
bulb  never  blossoms  but  once  and  then  perishes,  giving 
off  a  few  offsets  and  plenty  of  seeds  to  perpetuate  its 
kind.  The  object  of  planting  half-grown  bulbs  is  that 
they  may  become  fully  established  by  the  time  the 
flowering  stage  is  reached,  and  then  you  may  expect,  and 
possibly  get,  a  giant  flowering  stem  of  7  feet  or  3  feet 
high.  The  big  flower-stem  you  refer  to  at  3  feet  high 
was  all  the  bulb  contained,  and  had  you  examined  the 
base  you  would  have  found  that  not  a  new  root  had  been 
produced  since  the  planting  was  done.  Of  the  smaller 
bulbs  quite  double  the  number  could  be  planted,  and  if 
you  inserted  a  few  each  year  up  to  the  flowering  of  the 
ttrst-planted  lot  there  is  no  reason  why  you  should  not 
have  a  good  display  of  flowers  each  year. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 
Wistaria    with    bare    bpanches 

(  Vaynor,  Berriew).  — Your  Wistaria  branches  are 
bare  through  neglect  of  pruning  in  years  past. 
If  you  can  manage  it,  try  and  train  up  a  young 
branch  or  two  here  and  there  among  the  old  ones, 
and  as  the  former  grow  remove  the  worn-out 
pieces.  It  is  doubtful  whether  you  will  get  the 
branches  to  break  out  again  if  you  cut  them  back 
into  the  old  wood  ;  you  may,  however,  encourage 
growth  by  removing  the  Jasmine  which  is 
encroaching  on  it  and  giving  the  plant  some 
manure  and  new  soil.  If  you  can  obtain  young 
branches,  shorten  the  side  growths  in  each  year, 
so  as  to  form  spurs. 

Larches  diseased  [Mrs.  Oraig).— Your 
Larches  appear  to  be  attacked  by  a  fungoid 
disease  common  to  Larch  and  some  Firs,  and 
known  under  the  scientific  name  of  Sphserella 
laricina  and  the  common  name  uf  Larch  Needle- 
cist.  Towards  the  end  of  June  and  early  part 
of  July  small  brown  spots  appear  on  the  needles. 
These  are  fungus  germs,  which  later  on  bear 
spores.  The  mycelium  of  the  fungus  spreads  into 
the  leaves  and  causes  them  to  fall  oflf  and  the 
young  branches  to  die.  The  cause  of  the  disease 
is  planting  the  trees  in  unsuitable  situations. 
There  is  really  no  remedy  where  trees  are  grown 
on  a  large  scale.  Isolated  trees  may,  however, 
be  sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mixture  during  spring. 
This  will  aot  as  a  preventive.  The  spraying 
must  be  done  frequently  over  a  period  of 
three  months,  viz.,  February  to  April. 

Lilchen  on  Azaleas  (.-1.  S.  Editiburgh).— To  get 
rid  of  lichen  ou  Azaleas  dissolve  half  a  pound  of  Green- 
bank's  98  per  cent,  caustic  soda,  half  a  pound  of  commercial 
potash  and  half  a  pound  of  soft  soap  in  hot  water  and 
in  separate  vessels.  Then  mix  well  together  and  add 
suftlcient  water  to  make  up  to  five  gallons  of  liquid. 
When  the  Azaleas  are  absolutely  dormaut  they  must  be 
syringed  with  this  mixture.  Its  caustic  properties  should 
be  borne  in  mind,  and  it  is  very  necessary  that  the  operator 
wears  rubber  gloves. 

Shpubs  f OP  6-feet  hlg'h  fence  (Alfred  Bmtsfiad). 
The  follow  ing  plants  are  suitable  for  your  fence — you  can 
plant  them  about  6  feet  apart :  Rose  Alberic  Barbier,  R. 
Dorothy  Perkins  and  R.  Hiawatha  :  the  former  is  cream, 
the  second  pink,  the  third  red.  The  Cut-leaved  Bramble 
(Rubus  laoiniatus)  and  the  Loganberry  are  two  useful  and 
ornamental  fruiting  plants.  Jasminum  nudiflorum  (which 
flowers  during  winter),  Clematis  montana  rubens,  C. 
Viticella  and  Lonlcera  ]aponica(the  Japanese  Honeysuckle) 
are  all  subjects  which  will  thrive  and  flower  well  and 
quickly  cover  your  fence. 

Beheading'  a  Holly  tpee  (//ooi).— Not  the  least 
harm  to  your  very  tall  Holly  will  result  from  cutting  out 
its  head,  even  10  feet  in  depth ;  but  it  will  be  as  well  to 
leave  the  beheading  until  the  middle  of  March,  a  flow  of  sap 
very  soon  follows.  When  you  have  the  head  sawn  off,  see 
that  the  top  of  the  severed  stem  is  neatly  pared  off  smooth 
with  a  sharp  knife  and  coated  over  with  painters' knotting, 
white  lead  or  coal-tar  to  protect  the  wood  from  decay.  If 
your  tree  has  now  a  pyramidal  form  which  you  would 
like  to  preserve,  when  the  head  is  cut  off  also  shorten 
hack  aome  of  the  upper  branches.  These  will  soon  break 
afresh  and  show  vigorous  growth. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Heatingr  a  conservatory  (ilfrs.  Blair). 
If  the  structure  adjoins  the  house  a  small  gas- 
stove  could  be  installed,  but  if  not,  any  of  the 
small  heating  apparatuses  advertised  in  The 
Garden  would  do  quite  well.  In  some  instances 
oil-lamps  are  used,  but  the  fumes  from  these  are 
so  much  opposed    to  plant-life  that  we  do  not 


recommend  their  adoption.  A  small  heating 
apparatus  which  could  be  fixed  outside  the  house 
would  give  no  more  trouble  than  a  lamp  and  be 
minus  the  latter's  objectionable  fumes. 

History     of     the      Cyclamen 

(Excelsior).  — There  are  many  species  of  Cyclamen , 
and  the  early  history  of  them  all  would  take  up 
a  considerable  space  ;  but  we  conclude  that  your 
question  refers  to  the  Persian  Cyclamen,  which  is 
now  so  much  cultivated  for  the  decoration  of  the 
greenhouse.  In  a  state  of  nature  Cyclamen 
persieum  occurs  throughout  Greece,  the  Greek 
Islands  and  the  whole  of  Syria.  It  was  intro- 
duced into  this  country  in  17.31,  but  for  many 
years  it  was  not  grown  to  any  great  extent.  In 
the  original  species  the  flower  is  white,  with  a 
reddish  purple  blotch  at  the  base,  while  it  is  also 
devoid  of  scent.  Under  cultivation,  however, 
it  has  yielded  a  vast  number  of  forms  and  colours, 
as  these  last  range  from  pure  white  to  deep 
crimson,  while  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  forms 
we  have  the  crested,  fringed  and  Papilio  types. 
It  was  at  one  time  the  custom  to  give  varietal 
names  to  individual  plants  of  Cyclamen  persieum, 
and  during  the  years  from  1870  to  1889  no  less 
than  thirty-six  varieties  were  given  certificates 
by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Concerning 
Cyclamen  persieum,  it  may  be  noted  that  it  has 
the  largest  flower  of  all  the  species,  and  another 
notable  feature  is  that  in  all  the  others  the  seed- 
pod  winds  itself  up  in  the  length  of  the  flower- 
stalk  until  it  assumes  a  spiral  tightly  curled  up 
close  to  the  parent  tuber,  while  in  C.  persieum 
the  flower-stalk,  after  the  blossom  is  past,  often 
lies  flat  on  the  ground. 

Climbep  foP  consepvatopy  Weginner).—\o\i 
do  not  say  the  size  of  the  conservatory,  which  would  have 
helped  us  in  our  reply.  Good  roof-plants  are  Clematis 
indivisa  lobata,  Abutilous  and  Fuchsias,  all  of  which  are 
free-Howering  and  suitable  for  a  cool  house.  Apart  from 
the  plants  you  name,  such  Ferns  as  Asplenium  bulbiferum 
and  Adiantums  of  sorts,  Azalea  mollis,  Ficus  elastica, 
Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums,  Ophiopogou  and  Ferns  in  variety 
may  be  grown.  All  the  plants  named  require  to  be 
watered,  otherwise  they  will  perish.  Dryness  at  the  root 
is  a  wise  precaution  in  times  of  frost,  but  at  other  times 
such  extremes  often  repeated  may  do  much  harm.  A  point 
to  remember  concerniug  oil-stoves  Is  that  perfect  cleanli- 
ness Is  most  essential,  not  only  to  the  effective  working  of 
these  things,  but  as  a  safeguard  against  the  presence  of 
obnoxious  fumes  arising  therefrom. 

Infopmatlon  about  Opchlds  (■/.  .1/.).— As  the 
soil  of  jour  Orchids  is  in  a  bad  state,  it  will  he  necessary 
to  shake  them  clear  of  it  and  repot  them  before  you  can 
expect  much  improvement.  At  the  same  time,  It  is  an 
unfavourable  period  of  the  year  to  do  this,  and  we  advise 
you  to  wait  until  next  March.  Until  that  time  you  must 
water  them  when  necessary,  and  damp  the  stages  and 
other  surroundings  every  morning  In  order  to  maintain  a 
certain  amount  of  atmospheric  moisture.  You  ask  how 
often  they  should  be  watered,  which  question  it  is,  of 
course,  impossible  for  us  to  answer,  as  so  much  depends 
upon  the  house,  manner  of  heating,  &c.  One  thing  Is  you 
must  give  them  sufficient  water  to  keep  the  soil  fairly 
moist.  For  most  Cattleyas  and  Lsllas  the  best  tempera- 
ture is  that  known  as  the  intermediate  house,  of  which  the 
lowest  winter  temperature  should  iie  55°,  rising  during  the 
day  to  00°  or  65°.  When  March  comes  your  better  way 
will  be  to  prepare  a  mixture  of  peat  and  sphagnum  ready 
for  repotting.  Then  turn  the  plants  out  of  the  pots,  take 
off  all  the  soil  and  cut  away  all  dead  roots.  After  this 
they  must  be  repotted,  using  for  the  purpose  quite  clean 
pots  half  filled  with  broken  crocks.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  use  pots  too  large,  for  it  is  far  better  to  Induce  them 
to  form  good,  healthy  roots  in  small  pots,  and  shift  into 
larger  ones  when  these  are  well  furnished  with  roots.  On 
no  account  must  the  soil  after  repotting  be  kept  too  wet. 
A  gentle  bedewing  with  the  syringe  three  or  four  times  a 
day  will  be  very  helpful. 

FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Pear  tree  Bergramotte  Esperen 
bearing^  two  crops  of  fruit  yearly 

(  W.  Prosser).  — It  is  not  an  uncommon  occurrence 
for  the  Pear  tree  to  bear  a  second  crop,  but  we 
have  never  known  an  instance  where  the  second 
crop  has  been  worth  preserving.  The  variety 
under  notice  being  one  of  our  latest  Pears,  it 
generally  takes  it  all  its  time  to  properly  ripen 
its  first  crop,  therefore  it  is  quite  hopeless  to 
expect  it  to  be  able  to  ripen  a  second  one.  We 
think  another  year  if  you  pluck  off  the  bloom  of 
the  second  crop  as  soon  as  it  is  visible  the  first  crop 
will  swell  and  ripen  all  right — that  is,  provided 
the  tree  is  robust  and  in  good  health. 


American  blight  on  Apple  trees 

{A.  B.). — There  is  nothing  better  or  which  is 
safer  to  use  for  the  destruction  of  this  pest  than 
the  Caustic  Alkali  Wash  which  we  have  so 
frequently  recommended.  It  kills  all  insect- 
life  with  which  it  comes  in  contact  and  frees  the 
bark  of  the  trees  of  all  extraneous  growth,  such 
as  lichen  or  moss,  leaving  it  smooth  and  shiny. 
The  success  of  its  application  depends  on  the 
thorough  way  it  is  applied,  making  sure  that 
every  hole  and  cranny  of  the  bark  is  reached  by 
it.  Be  careful  to  burn  all  the  leaves  which  fall 
from  the  afiected  trees  and  also  all  prunings  and 
some  2  inches  of  the  surface  soil,  as  the  pest 
often  takes  shelter  in  the  soil  during  winter.  The 
spraying  should  take  place,  first,  immediately 
after  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  and  again  in  February. 
The  mixture  is  of  a  burning  nature,  and  care 
must  be  taken  to  protect  the  hands  and  clothes 
while  applying  it. 

Washing"  fruit  trees  (Excelsior).— 
Iron  sulphate  will  not  take  the  place  of  the 
alkali  wash  for  use  in  the  winter,  and  there  is  a 
possibility  that  green  plants  growing  under  trees 
that  are  sprayed  would  sufier  if  the  spray  dripped 
upon  them  ;  in  fact,  there  is  scarcely  any  doubt 
that  they  would  suffer  severely.  Probably  the 
best  alkali  spray  for  cleansing  trees  is  made  by 
dissolving  21b.  of  caustic  soda  (98  per  cent. )  in 
ten  gallons  of  water,  and  this  should  be  used  as 
late  in  the  spring,  before  the  buds  burst,  as 
possible,  say,  at  the  end  of  February.  The  alkali 
wash  should  be  made  at  home.  It  may  be  used 
in  combination  with  copper  sulphate  and  paraffin 
when  there  is  an  attack  of  Apple  scab  to  guard 
against,  and  is  then  best  purchased  in  the  form 
of  the  Woburn  Wash  for  fungi  in  winter.  This 
is  a  compound  of  copper  sulphate  and  paraffin, 
and  to  this  caustic  soda  is  to  be  added.  The 
greatest  precautions  to  take  in  fighting  the  Apple 
scab  appear  to  be  to  cut  out  all  dead  wood  and 
diseased  twigs,  and  to  spray  with  Bordeaux 
mixture  before  the  flowers  open  and  again  as 
soon  as  the  petals  have  fallen. 

Hot  pipes  too  close  to  stems  in  vlnepy 

(J.  H.,  Pnrttiiatfoc).— The  action  of  constant  heat  radiating 
at  close  quarters  round  the  stems  of  the  Vines  Is  bound 
to  result  in  Injury  to  them  by  the  tendency  it  will 
have  to  dry  up  the  bark  and  tissues,  and  so  make  the 
circulation  of  sap  more  difficult.  The  best  thing  to  do  to 
obviate  this  injury  is  to  place  a  piece  of  board  G  Inches 
wide  and  a  few  inches  higher  than  the  pipes  against  the 
stems  of  the  ■\''ine8  facing  the  pipes.  This  will  effectually 
guard  them  against  any  buch  injury. 

Peap  tpee  on  stable  wall  unsatlsfactopy 
(Ellis  K>:comhe).~ThB  variety  Is  Pitma^tou  Duchess.  It 
is  a  valuable  sort  for  market  purposes,  as  it  succeeds  well 
when  grown  as  a  standard  in  an  orchard  where  the  soil 
is  suitable.  It  bears  heavily  and  always  commands  a 
good  price  by  reason  of  its  size  and  handsome  appearance. 
The  sample  sent  is  of  average  size,  Possibly  the  flavour 
may  have  been  better  when  the  tree  was  growing  on  a 
south  wall,  hence  the  previous  tenant's  estimate  of  it. 
We  do  Jnot  think  you  cau  do  anything  to  improve  its. 
flavour.  Should  you  decide  to  destroy  the  tree,  we 
should  recommend  you  to  plant  a  variety  named  Doyenn6 
du  Cornice  In  Its  place.  It  is  a  free  grower,  good  cropper 
and  the  flavour  is  flrst-rate.  It  is  in  season  from  the 
middle  of  November  to  Christmas. 

Fpuit  tpees  fop  n^all  spaces  In  dlfTepent 
aspects  (F.  I'mfc;/).— Garden  A  (east  wall  9  feet  high) :. 
In  space  9  feet  plant  one  trained  tree  of  Golden  Drop 
Plum.  In  space  39  plant  three  fan-trained  trees  of  "Vicar 
of  WinkHeld  Pear,  the  best  of  all  for  preserving  for  winter, 
dessert  and  other  uses.  In  space  6  feet  plant  three  single 
cordon-trained  trees  of  Williams's  Bon  Chretien  Pears. 
In  space  9  feet  plant  one  fan-trained  tree  of  Golden  Drop- 
Plum.  South  wall  (13  feet  space  by  moving  Plum) :  Plant 
one  fan-trained  tree  of  Moor  Park  Apricot,  (harden  B- 
(east  wall  B  feet  high,  space  24  feet):  Plant  six  double 
cordon-trained  Pear  trees  of  the  following  varieties— one 
Beurr6  Giffard,  one  Williams's  Bon  Chretien,  one 
Triomphe  de  Vienne,  one  Marie  Louise  and  two  Doyenn6- 
du  Comlce.  Fine  south  wall  in  Garden  B  (6  feet  high, 
space  30  feet  wide) :  Plant  one  double  cordon-trained  tree 
of  each  of  the  following  Pears — Winter  Nells,  Beurr6- 
Dubuison,  Easter  BeurrS,  Santa  Claus  and  Thompson's. 
Dessert  Plums  (one  tree  of  the  following  varieties,  all 
double  cordon-trained,  on  account  of  the  wall  being  so- 
low)  :  The  Old  Green  Gage,  Transparent  Gage,  Denniston's 
Superb  Gage  and  Jefferson  Gage.  Garden  C  (wall  facing 
north,  space  24  feet) :  Plant  with  two  fan-trained  Morello 
Cherry  trees.  Wall  facing  west  in  the  same  garden  (12  feet 
high,  space  24  feet) ;  Plant  with  one  fan-trained  tree  of 
each  of  the  following  Cherries — Frogmore  Early  Bigarreau, 
Governor  Wood  and  The  Noble.  We  hesitate  to  recom- 
mend the  growth  of  the  Peach  or  the  Fig  out  of  doors  so 
far  North. 


24 


THE     GARDEN. 


[January  9,  1909. 


Small  black  spots  on  Blenheim  Orange 
Apples  {H.  ./rtfA;,s-on).— The  Apples  are  dead  ripe,  and 
the  black  fpots  are  simply  premonitioiu  of  decay.  The 
shrivelliDg  of  the  skin  which  is  apparent  in  one  of  the  speci- 
luens  suggests  that  the  Apples  h»d  been  gathered  from  the 
trees  too  soon,  or  that  they  had  been  stored  in  too  dry  a  place 
and  therefore  ripened  prematurely.  <->u  the  other  hand,  the 
early  ripening  may  be  due  to  the  remarkable  and  unseason- 
able spell  of  warm  weather  experienced  for  close  on  a 
fortnight  during  the  past  autumn.  This  did  much  damage 
in  many  Apple  orchards,  .\pples  falling  wholesale  oft  the 
trees  many  weeks  before  their  usual  time  of  riperiing. 

W^lpe  fence  for  training  fpuit  tpees  on 
in  unsbelteped  papt  (-R.  U.  «.).— If  Apples  and 
Plums  succeed  well  in  your  district  with  good  culture  and 
some  protection,  we  should  be  inclined  to  risk  planting 
some  of  the  hardier  varieties  of  Apples  and  Plums 
(Pears  would  be  less  likely  to  succeed),  or,  if  in  doubt 
respecting  your  chance  with  the  above  fruits,  you  might 
with  confidence  plant  the  Loganberry,  a  useful  and  pro- 
ductive fruit  which  is  becoming  most  popular  for  pre- 
serving purposes.  It  need  scarcely  be  said  that  good 
culture  must  precede  the  planting  of  either.  Of  Apples 
we  should  plant  James  Grieve,  Allington  Pippin,  Lane's 
Prince  Albert,  Bramley's  .Seedling,  Worcester  Pearmain, 
Court  Pendu  Plat  and  liraddick's  Nonpareil.  Plums: 
Kirke's,  Reine  Claude  de  Bavay,  Green  Gaee,  Purple  Gage, 
Belgian  Purple,  Czar,  Victoria,  Early  Proliflc  and  Prince 
Englebert. 

Apple  tPees  fop  lawnslde  (£.  <}■  C.).— The 
"  Thorles  Apple  "  mentioned  by  Mr.  W.  B,  Hartland  in  the 
issue  of  The  Garden  of  September  19  last  must,  we  think, 
be  an  Irish  treasure  not  yet  introduced  to  this  side  of  the 
channel.  Apples  of  flrst-rate  flavour  ripe  at  the  time 
mentioned  are  scarce.  Among  the  best  and  most  hand- 
some will  be  found  a  new  variety  recently  certificated  by 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  named  Feltham  Beauty, 
sent  out  by  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons  of  Chelsea.  It  is  a 
cross  between  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  and  Gladstone. 
Duchess  of  Gloucester  is  a  very  beautiful  variety, 
exceeding  almost  the  Worcester  Pearmain  in  brilliancy  of 
colouring.  Ben's  Red  is  a  hardy,  free-cropping  variety, 
ripe  in  September,  of  a  brilliant  clarety  red  colour.  For 
a  yellow-fruiting  variety  ripe  aliout  this  time  we  know 
nothing  better  than  Irish  Peach.  John  Downie  Crab, 
nearly  the  size  of  a  small  Apple,  is  a  lovely  shade  of  old 
gold  and  a  heavy  cropper. 


ROSE    GARDEN, 
Rose  shoots  injured  {0.  C.  B.).— We 

believe  that  the  injury  to  your  Roses  is  caused 
by  the  larv<e  of  one  of  the  numerous  Rose  saw- 
flies.  Some  of  them  deposit  their  eggs  in  the 
young  and  succulent  stems,  and  the  larvfe  feed 
upon  the  pith.  Sprinkling  with  Hellebore 
powder  will  tend  to  keep  the  pests  away,  and 
the  small  flies  can  be  caught  with  a  hand-net. 
One  of  the  shoots  looks  as  if  it  had  been  attacked 
by  weevils,  and  as  these  usually  feed  after  dark 
they  must  be  sought  for  at  that  time.  The  best 
plan  is  to  place  a  white  sheet  under  the  bush  and 
then  give  it  a  shake,  when  the  weevils  will  fall 
into  the  sheet  and  can  readily  be  destroyed. 

Rose  leaves  fop  Inspection  (Fresh- 

ivater),  — Your  Rose  leaves  No.  1  are  infested  by 
the  caterpillars  of  a  very  small  moth  (Nepticula 
anomalella),  which  lays  its  eggs  on  the  leaves.  The 
little  caterpillars,  as  soon  as  they  are  hatched, 
make  their  way  into  the  interior  of  the  leaf  and 
live  on  the  inner  substance,  making  long  galleries 
or  mines  as  they  feed.  They  certainly  disfigure 
the  leaves,  but  unless  they  were  present  in  very 
large  numbers  they  could  not  really  injure  the 
plant.  The  best  way  of  destroying  them  is  to 
pick  off  and  burn  the  afleeted  leaves  as  soon  as 
the  presence  of  the  caterpillars  is  detected. 
Spraying  has  not  been  found  to  be  of  any  use. 
The  moths  are  very  small  insects,  measuring 
scarcely  an  eighth  of  an  inch  across  the  open 
wings  ;  it  is  possible  that  they  might  be  pre- 
vented from  laying  their  eggs  by  spraying  the 
leaves  with  paraffin  emulsion,  but  the  difficulty 
would  be  to  know  when  the  moths  were  about  to 
lay  their  eggs.  Leaves  No.  2  have  been  injured 
by  the  so-called  Rose  slug-worm,  which  is 
neither  a  slug  nor  a  worm,  but  the  grub  of  one  of 
the  sawflies  (Eriocampa  roste).  These  pests  are 
at  times  the  cause  of  much  injury  to  the  bushes. 
They  feed  entirely  on  the  upper  skin  of  the 
leaves,  and  when  fully  grown  fall  to  the  ground, 
bury  themselves,  and  become  chrysalides  in  little 
cocoons.  While  the  grubs  are  on  the  leaves,  the 
best  way  to  destroy  them  is  by  spraying  the 
plant  with  Hellebore  wash.  Mix  loz.  of  freshly- 
ground  Hellebore  with  '2oz.  of  flour  in  a  little 
water,   then  add    enough  water   to  make  three 


gallons  of  wash  and  keep  it  well  stirred  while 
applying  it.  If  the  attack  has  been  a  very  bad 
one,  remove  2  inches  in  depth  of  the  surface  soil 
Irom  under  the  plants  in  the  winter  and  burn  or 
bury  it  deeply. — G.  S.  S. 

Roses  In  vases  {ff.  i/.).— You  would 
have  no  difficulty  in  growing  standard  trees  of 
Dorothy  Perkins  in  the  vases,  but  it  would  be 
best  if  the  trees  were  specimens  that  had  pre- 
viously been  growing  in  pots,  as  in  this  ease  they 
would  have  a  ball  of  earth  attached  to  their 
roots.  But  it  is  very  unlikely  that  you  would 
be  able  to  procure  such  trees  of  the  White 
Dorothy,  and  we  question  whether  even  you  can 
procure  standards  from  the  open  ground  yet,  as 
it   is   new  this  season.     If   you  provided   about 

4  inches  of  drainage,  such  as  broken  crocks,  this 
would  be  sufficient.  Then  fill  up  the  vases  with 
good  fibrous  loam  two  parts,  with  one  part  of 
well-decayed  manure  admixed,  also  some  steamed 
bone-meal.  Plant  the  trees  very  firmly,  with 
the  roots  6  inches  beneath  the  surface,  and  take 
every  care  to  secure  them  from  being  blown  about 
by  the  wind.  This  beautiful  Rose,  both  the 
pink  and  the  white  form,  is  capable  of  being 
trained  in  almost  any  shape,  but  as  a  drooping 
or  weeping  tree  it  looks  best. 

Darlc-colouped    Roses  (.4.  B.)—Aa 

to  why  dark  Roses  are  more  difficult  to  grow 
satisfactorily  than  light  colours  we  can  only 
say,  "'tis  their  nature."  Raisers  are  trying 
to  obtain  very  dark  crimsons  among  the  Hybrid 
Teas,  and  if  they  succeed  the  difficulty  will  be 
solved  ;  but  at  present  there  are  few  really  good 
dark  Roses  in  this  section.  M.  Pernet-Duoher's 
new  Rose,  Chateau  des  Clos  Vougeot,  promises 
well,  although  its  bloom  is  not  comparable  to  a 
Prince  Camille  de  Rohan.  As  a  rule,  very  dark 
Roses  succeed  better  when  grown  on  standard  or 
half-standard  Briars,  and  if  the  blooms  are  care- 
fully shaded  from  very  bright  sun  you  would  be 
able  to  grow  some  sorts  very  well.  We  think 
your  soil  does  not  require  any  more  heavy  material 
such  as  clay,  seeing  that  it  is  already  inclined  to 
be  heavy.  It  would  doubtless  benefit  by  a 
dressing  of  basic  slag  at  once,  and  in  February 
Tonk's  Manure  should  be  added.  You  will  find 
the  following  dark  Roses  good  reliable  sorts,  viz. , 
Jubilee,  Reynolds  Hole,  Louis  Ricard,  Eugene 
Fiirst,  Charles  Lefebvre  and  Abel  Carriere.  We 
take  it  that  you  have  merely  shortened  back 
the  growths  moderately  of  your  newly-planted 
Roses,  for  it  would  not  be  a  good  practice  to 
prune  severely  until  March.  You  need  not  fear 
any  harm  accruing  from  the  appearance  of  new 
growths  in  such  a  season  as  the  present.  The 
new  growths  will  doubtless  suffer  from  frost,  but 
in  March  you  will  prune  past  such  growths  to 
good  plump  dormant  eyes   within   4   inches   or 

5  inches  of  the  base  of  the  plants. 

Roses  fop  North  London  gapden  (Seeker).— 
The  selection  you  have  made  is  an  excellent  one,  every 
Rose  being  good,  and  we  do  not  think  you  can  improve 
upon  the  list  Hugh  Dickson  is  a  splendid  crimson  Rose 
that  grows  well ;  Antoioe  Rivoire  is  also  flrst-rate.  Anna 
Olliver  will  succeed  in  almost  every  garden,  and  Mrs.  S. 
Treseder,  which  is  a  sport  of  the  latter,  should  do  equally 
well,  although  we  might  perhaps  prefer  Lady  Roberts, 
another  sport  of  Anna  Ollivier.  Florence  Pemberton  is 
good,  but  if  you  would  like  a  beautiful  rose-coloured 
varietywe  can  recommend  instead  Gustave  Grunerwald. 
Pharisaer  is  splendid. 

Rose  shoot  diseased  (A^  E.  DanieU).~The  Rose 
shoot  is  attacked  by  the  disease  known  as  Rose  canker, 
and  this  has  probably  been  caused  by  the  fungus  Conio- 
tbyrium  Fuchelii.  The  first  sign  of  the  disease  is  the  ap- 
pearance of  purplish  red  areas  on  the  bark  of  the  shoots, 
and  all  these  spots  should  be  cut  out  and  the  wounds 
painted  with  some  antiseptic.  All  the  badly-attacked 
shoots  should  be  cut  out  altogether  and  the  cut  surfaces 
painted.  AH  pieces  removed  should  be  burned  at  once. 
It  is  important  to  rememl>er  that  the  fungus  is  a  wound 
parasite,  and  that  the  only  place  through  which  it  can 
gain  an  entrance  is  by  small  or  large  holes  in  the  bark 
caused  by  pruning,  insects  or  even  the  whipping  together 
of  the  shoots  themselves. 

Tpansplanting  Roses  at  Michaelmas, 
1909  (jT.  ir.  .Vrt;//ia/v/(.— You  need  not  take  the  trouble 
of  potting  up  your  Roses,  as  the  bushes  may  safely  be  dug 
up  at  Michaelmas  and  replanted  in  your  new  garden  We 
removed  some  last  year  on  September  14,  cut  off  all  their 
foliage,  dipped  their  roots,  in  thin  mud  and  replanted  in 
new  positions.    The  plants,  Rambler  and  Tea  Roses,  look 


at  the  present  moment  in  excellent  health  ;  in  fact,  they 
have  commenced  to  send  out  new  shoots.  The  important 
point  to  bear  in  mind  in  early  transplanting  is  to  see  that 
the  roots  are  kept  moist  and  away  from  drying  winds,  and 
also  to  remove  all  foliage  immediately.  In  the  case  of 
long  growths  these  may  be  cut  back  to  at  most  3  feet,  and 
the  plants  will  tie  all  the  better  for  it. 

Rapid-gpowing-  Roses  fop  a  tall  apch 
(-1.  C). — You  cannot  do  better  than  make  a  selection  of 
last-growing  Roses  from  the  multiflora,  wichuraiana  and 
sempervirens  groups.  Six  excellent  sorts  would  be  Blush 
Rimbler,  Hiawatha,  Dorothy  Perkins,  Alberic  Barbier, 
Crimson  Rambler  and  Felicity  Perp6tue.  If  you  plant 
them  in  the  order  named  they  would  harmonise  well.  To 
encourage  rapid  growth  good  holes  should  be  opened  fully 
:i  feet  deep  and  as  much  in  width  each  way.  The  holts 
are  then  refilled,  working  in  some  well-rotted  manure  with 
the  soil.  If  the  soil  is  not  specially  good,  add  some  from 
another  part  of  the  garden.  Fill  the  holes  up  and  allow 
them  to  settle  down  before  planting.  It  would  take  about 
a  week  to  do  this. 

Cpimson    Ramblep     bape    at    the     base 

{Stmitl).— You  do  not  say  the  age  of  your  i-lai.t,  but  we 
presume  it  possesses  some  growths  three  and  four  years 
old.  In  order  to  encourage  new  growths  from  the  base, 
some  of  these  old  shoots  should  be  cut  out  at  once.  They 
may  be  of  great  hickness,  but  it  will  be  best  to  remove 
them  :  in  fact,  this  Rambler  in  particular  always  suc- 
ceeds best  when  all  the  growths  over  two  years  old  are 
removed  annually,  as  soon  after  July  as  convenient.  By 
retaining  only  the  one  year  and  two  year  old  wood  we 
obtain  a  far  more  satisfactory  tilooming.  You  may  not 
be  able  to  remove  the  old  wood  all  in  one  season,  hut 
even  if  one  growth  lie  cut  right  down  to  the  base  this  will 
encourage  new  shouts  to  spring  up. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Transplanting'    Onion    plants 

(i?.  S. ). — You  certainly  sowed  your  Italian  Onion 
seed  unusually  early  (July  1.!))  to  get  plants 
to  stand  the  winter.  Apart  from  the  fact  that 
such  plants  are  apt,  in  very  hard  weather,-  to 
succumb  to  frost,  there  is  the  further  danger 
that  next  summer,  whether  transplanted  or  left 
where  sown,  they  will  bolt  off  to  flower  rather 
than  properly  bulb.  The  middle  of  August  is 
amply  early  for  making  sowings  of  Onion  seed  to 
stand  the  winter,  and  some  gardeners  do  not  sow 
till  the  last  week  in  that  month.  Certainly  lift 
plants  carefully  towards  the  end  of  March,  easing 
the  soil  with  a  fork  to  prevent  breaking  of  the 
roots,  then  dibble  out  into  rows  1.")  inches  apart, 
the  Onions  being  9  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
Very  fine  bulbs  should  result.  You  will  fiud 
Italian  bulbs  will  soon  decay.  Far  better  sow 
Maincrop  or  Ailsa  Craig  at  the  end  of  August  to 
provide  tine,  hard,  good-keeping  bulbs. 

Hovtr  to  epect  a  Mushpoom  house  (.1.  M.  M.). 
The  most  important  thing  to  bear  in  mind  in  building  a 
house  for  Mushrooms  is  to  make  a  provision  against  the 
sudden  fluctuations  of  the  temperature  and  atmosphere  of 
the  house.  To  this  end  it  is  necessary  for  the  wails  to  be 
built  thickly  (at  least  15  inches)  and  that  the  roof  should 
be  covered  with  a  deep  thatch  of  Heather  or  straw  and 
with  boards  on  the  inside.  The  winter  temperature 
should  range  from  53"^  to  57'^  Fahr.,  and  in  summer  it  is 
important  that  the  house  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible.  The 
best  position  in  which  to  erect  such  a  house  is  that  against 
a  garden  or  other  wall  facing  north.  The  house  should  be 
a  lean-to  10  feet  high  at  the  back  and  8  feet  in  front,  w  ith 
a  width  of  9  feet.  Its  length  must  depend  on  the  supplies 
required,  whether  large,  medium  or  small.  We  suggest 
that  from  24  feet  to  30  feet  would  be  a  useful  size.  On  the 
side  next  the  high  wall  four  tiers  of  beds  could  he  had, 
each  3  feet  wide  and  11  inches  deep,  to  include  one  bed 
made  on  the  floor.  Three  tiers  only  could  be  had  next  the 
low  outer  wall  and  the  two  ends,  namely,  one  at  the 
bottom,  the  next  3  feet  higher,  and  the  third  the  same 
distance  above  the  second.  The  fittings  to  carry  the  beds 
are  best  made  of  cast  iron  columns,  reaching  from  the 
floor  to  the  roof  and  resting  on  good  ioundations  (as  they 
have  to  carry  a  big  weigbt  when  the  beds  are  all  full) 
braced  together  lengthways  by  4-inch  angle  iron  girders, 
the  flat  part  of  the  angle  on  the  inside  forming  a  place 
of  lodgment  for  the  slate  slabs  or  timber  (whichever 
is  used)  to  form  the  bottom  of  the  beds.  Any  horticultural 
builder  will  know  how  to  erect  the  fittings  for  the  beds. 
The  door  should  be  in  the  middle  and  wide  enough  to 
allow  of  a  barruw-load  of  manure  1 1  be  tipped  through  it 
into  the  house.  It  should  have  two  ;ilass  ventilators  in 
the  roof  near  the  back  wall  and  about  6  feet  from  each  end. 
Mushrooms  need  little  air,  but  provision  must  bo 
made  for  letting  the  steam  nut  of  the  house  when  fresh, 
hot  manure  is  taken  in.  Portable  coverings  lined  with 
Heather  should  be  provided  to  place  over  the  ventilatirs 
to  keep  the  house  dark,  and  as  a  protection  from  cold  in 
winter  and  heat  in  summer.  Provision  will  have  to  be 
made  for  artificially  heating  the  house  by  hot  water.  A 
small  boiler  will  he  suttieient  for  the  purpose.  The  pipes 
should  consist  of  four  4-inch  pipes  itwo  flow  and  two 
return)  laid  on  the  fioor  side  by  side  (raise''  -I'ghtly  oil  the 
floor)  and  covered  over  with  an  open  wooa  trellis  to 
form  the  pathway,  which  will  be  3  feet  wide. 


GARDEN. 


■^z^A 


-^0^^^^?^^ 


No    1939.     Vol.  LXXIII. 


January   Ifi,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


Best      Evergreen 

Perpetual-flowering 

Sbuobs  fob  Winter 

American  Carnations 

3(1 

Effect  

2t) 

Coloured  Plate 

Pri2e8  for  Readers . .     . . 

26 

A    beautiful    new 

NOTES  OP  THE  WEEK 

annual      

30 

The  Royal  Caledonian 

Flower  Gardes 

Horticultural  Club 

•Hi 

Tulips  in  grass    . .     . . 

31 

Cokrespondenoe 

A  rare  Verbena  . .     . . 

31 

A  note  from    iJritish 

Sweet  Pea  chat      ..     .. 

31 

Columbia 

27 

Gardening  for  Beginners 

Plants   in    flower    on 
Christmas  Day 

27 

Garden  work  week  by 

^■' 

A     Crocus     flowering 
without  soil     . .     . . 

27 

Increasing  the  Privet 

32 

Unseasonable    flower- 
ing of  shrubs  . .     . . 

■27 

keep 

THE  TOWN  GARDEN      .. 

33 
33 

0RBENHOnSE 

Vallota  purpurea  and 

97 

Gardening  op  the  Week 
For    the  South   and 

Gloxinias  from  seed  . . 

27 

South  Midlands     .. 
For  the   North    and 

34 

KiTOHEN  Garden 

North  Midlands    .. 

31 

Seed  -  sowing    in    the 
vegetable  garden    . . 

28 

Answers    to    Corre- 
spondents 

FRDIT  GARDEN 

Flower  garden    . .     . . 

31 

3i) 

William  Crump      .. 

29 

3f) 

Forcing  Strawberries 

29 

Rose  garden 

35 

Robe  Garden 

Fruit  garden 

36 

Roses  by  the  sea 

29 

Miscellaneous     . . 

3lj 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A  Crocus  flowering  without  soil 27 

Gloxinias  flowering  the  same  year  as  raised  from  seed      23 

The  new  dessert  Apple  William  Crump 29 

"White  Pottebakker  Tulips  growing  on  a  grassy  bank  . .     30 

A  beautiful  new  annual Coloured  plate 

Verbena  Maonettii  in  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew    . .     . .    31 
Increasing  the  Privet      32,33 


EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
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relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
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the  ^^  Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature^  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
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but  he  vrill  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
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Offices:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Cooent  Garden,  W.C. 


BEST    EVERGREEN    SHRUBS 
FOR     WINTER    EFFECT. 

How    TO    Gbow    Them. 
{First  Prize  Essay.) 
'    I    ^  HERE  are  a  great  many  species  of  these 
I  now  in  cultivation.    The  following  list 

I  includes  those  which  are  most  effective 

I  and    also   hardy.       Regard   must   be 

paid  to  the  locality  in  which  they  are 
to  be  grown,  as  many  shrubs  will  thrive  in  the 
South  and  West  and  in  sheltered  situations 
which  would  be  killed  elsewhere  by  cold.  It 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  many  shrubs  over 
three  years  old  will  often  grow  and  succeed  well 
and  not  succumb  to  frost,  while  the  same  shrubs 
if  quite  young  will  die,  so  that  it  is  well  to  pur- 
chase good-sizedj*  healthy  plants.  In  some  parts 
trees  must  be  grown  to  provide  shelter  for  the 
shrubs,  especially  against  north  and  east  winds. 
Conifers,  evergreen  and  deciduous  trees  may  be 
grown  for  this  purpose.  The  conditions  of  the 
soil  must  be  considered.  Some  subjects  will 
thrive  in  rich,  moist  land,  others  in  chalky,  poor 
soil.  Before  planting  a  new  garden  always 
ascertain  what  species  will  thrive  best  in  the 
locality. 

In  large  gardens  shrubberies  are  best  planted 
near  the  park  or  woodland  and  the  shrubs  allowed 
to  grow  at  will,  provided  a  little  pruning  is  done 
annually  to  keep  them  within  bounds.  It  is 
generally  best  to  group  the  plants  according  to 
their  species,  and  not  to  mix  all  kinds  together 
indiscriminately.  A  pretty  efifect  may  be  secured 
in  spring  by  having  bulbs  in  groups  planted 
among  the  shrubs.  In  small  gardens  it  is  not  so 
easy  to  keep  to  one  species,  as  only  a  few  can  be 
grown.  Select  a  few  and  have  several  of  each 
rather  than  one  or  two  of  many  varieties,  which 
produce  a  patchy  effect. 

The.  Beat  Time  to  Plant  is  in  autumn  or  early 
spring.  The  ground  should  be  well  prepared 
beforehand  by  being  deeply  dug  and,  if  poor, 
manure  should  be  dug  in.  If  preparing  for 
Ericaceous  or  other  peat-loving  plants,  peat  and 
sand  should  be  added.  When  planting  any  shrub 
dig  a  hole  quite  large  enough  to  contain  the  roots. 
These  should  never  be  cramped,  but  always  well 
spread  out.  Any  broken  or  bruised  roots  should 
be  pruned  with  a  sharp  knife.  Bury  the  stem 
to  the  same  depth  as  it  has  been  previously 
covered  at  the  nursery.  Throw  the  soil  over  the 
roots  by  degrees  and  tread  firmly. 

Pruning. — This  should  be  done  in  the  case  of 
flowering  shrubs  immediately  after  flowering. 
Others  should  be  pruned  in  April  or  May.  The 
principal  object  in  pruning  evergreens  is  to  keep 
them  a  good  shape  and  certain  size.  Keep  the 
heads  well  open  to  harden  the  wood  and  plump 
up  buds  for  next  season. 

Aucuha  japonica. — The  well-known  spotted 
variety  with  berries  is  the  female  form,  also 
longifolia  and  angustifolia  with  green  foliage. 


Males :  Bicolor,  sulphurea  and  ovata  with 
variegated  foliage,  vera  and  grandis  with 
green  foliage.  Does  not  thrive  in  draughty 
situations.     Succeeds  well  in  towns. 

Arbutus. — A.  Unedo  (the  Strawberry  Tree)  is 
hardy  in  England.  White  wax-like  flowers  are 
borne  at  the  same  time  as  the  berries.  These 
latter  are  edible,  but  are  rather  seedy.  Prefers 
peaty  soil  and  plenty  of  moisture. 

Bay  (Laurus  nobilis).  —  Ornamental  shrub. 
Thrives  in  most  situations  and  soils.  Leaves 
used  in  cooking  for  flavouring. 

Berbtris. — Handsome  decorative  plants.  The 
common  species  thrive  in  any  soil  ;  the  better 
sorts  in  loam,  peat  and  sand.  Propagated  by 
suckers  or  layers  in  autumn.  Some  of  the 
varieties  have  prickly  leaves.  B.  Aquifolium, 
yellow  flowers  in  April  and  May,  may  be 
planted  under  trees  ;  B.  Darwinii,  orange  yellow 
flowers  in  early  spring,  small  dark  green  leaves  ; 
B.  stenophylla,  yellow  flowers,  narrow  pointed 
leaves. 

Bo.v  (Buxus). — Useful  evergreen.  Any  soil. 
Varieties  sempervirens  (common  Box),  B.  japonica 
(golden  leaf),  Myrtifolia  (Myrtle  leaved). 

Butcher's  Broom  (Rusous). — A  prickly  shrub 
with  flattened  branches,  which  have  the  appear- 
ance of  leaves.  The  white  flowers  and  after- 
wards red  berries  are  borne  in  the  centre  of  the 
leaf-like  structure.  Good  for  growing  under 
trees. 

Choisya  tenmta  (Mexican  Orange). — Sweet- 
scented  flowers,  shiny  green  foliage  in  winter. 
Hardy,  but  likes  a  sheltered  position. 

Cotoneaster.  — There  are  many  varieties  of  these 
excellent  shrubs,  nearly  all  bearing  bright  red 
berries  in  winter.  C.  angustifolia,  orange  yellow 
fruits  ;  C.  microphylla,  short  branches,  very  small 
dark  green  leaves,  round  crimson  berries  ;  C. 
Simonsii,  orange  Ijerries,  bushy  growth,  easily 
raised  from  seed  and  layers. 

Cratixgus  Pyracantha  (Fire  Thorn). — Very 
showy  evergreen  when  covered  with  its  brilliant 
scarlet  berries  in  clusters  in  winter.  Flowers  in 
May. 

Geanothus  rigidus. — Generally  grown  against  a 
wall ;  blue  flowers ;  raised  from  cuttings  and 
layers. 

Daphne  Cneorum. — Trailing  shrub  with  narrow 
leaves ;  red  flowers  produced  in  early  spring. 
J).  Laureola  and  pontiea  do  well  under  shade  of 
trees. 

Escallonia  macrantha. — Dark  shiny  leaves  and 
brilliant  red  flowers  ;  several  seen  in  blossom  on 
December  22.     Other  varieties  are  not  so  hardy. 

Eaonymus. — E.  japonicus,  E.  latifolius  albo- 
variegatus  and  E.  1.  aureo-variegatus  some- 
times suffer  in  severe  winters.  Suitible  for 
town  gardens  on  the  south  and  west  coast. 

Erica  (Heath). — Most  of  these  require  a  light, 
peaty  soil,  but  E.  carnea  will  succeed  in  almost 
any  ordinary  garden  soil.  Flowers  in  January 
and  February  and  onwards.  E.  codonodes  likes 
a  light  sandy  soil ;  it  has  small  white  and  pink 
flowers  from  January  to  May.  E.  hybrida,  very 
lovely,  sometimes  flowers  as  early  as  Christmas. 

Garrya  elliptica. — This  shrub  has  yellowish 
green  catkins  near  the  tips  of  the  branches  from 
November  to  February. 

Gaultheria  Shallon.  — This  is  an  excellent  under- 
shrub  with  its  shiny  green  leaves  in  winter.     It 


•26 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  16,  1909. 


succeeds  well  in  peaty  soil.  In  early  summer  it 
bears  flowers  like  those  of  the  Arbutus,  followed 
by  dark  bluish  purple  berries. 

Oorse  or  Furze. — This  is  a  fine  shrub  for  any 
situation  ;  a  few  branches  are  nearly  always  in 
blossom,  hence  the  saying,  "  When  the  Gorse  is 
not  in  blossom,  kissing  is  out  of  fashion."  Yellow 
leguminous  flowers,  followed  by  brown  seed- 
pods. 

Hedera. — The  Tree  Ivies  are  very  ornamental 
and  produce  clusters  of  different  coloured  berries. 
They  grow  well  under  the  shade  of  trees. 
Varieties:  H.  aurea  maculata  (gold  spotted), 
baocifera  lutea  (yellow  berries),  palmata  and  tri- 
color variegata. 

Ik.c  (Holly). — This,  of  course,  is  a  well-known 
evergreen,  much  in  demand  at  the  festive 
season  of  Christmas  for  its  bright  red  berries  and 
green,  shiny  leaves  ;  used  for  decorative  purposes 
in  churches,  mansions  and  cottages.  There  are 
many  good  species.  Green  leaved  :  Aquifolium 
(common),  crenata  latifolia,  doningtonensis, 
fructu  -  luteo  (yellow  berried),  laurifolia, 
myrtifolia,  reeurva  (curled),  serratifolia  (saw- 
leaved).  Silver  variegated  :  Argentea  mar- 
ginati,  argentea  medio-picta.  Silver  Queen. 
Golden  variegated  :  Aurea  marginata.  Golden 
Queen,  Mme.  Briot,  Golden  Milkmaid.  In- 
creased by  budding  on  the  common  Holly  or  by 
cuttings. 

Kalmia. — Dwarf  shrubs  with  narrow  leaves. 
Species :  Angustifolia,  glauoa  and  latifolia. 
Peaty  soil. 

Laurel  (Cerasus). — C.  Lauro-cerasus,  C.  lusi- 
tanica  (Portugal  Laurel),  C.  rotundifolium, 
latifolium,  colchica  and  cauoasioa.  Propagate 
from  cuttings  struck  in  autumn  in  a  shady  place 
in  sandy  soil,  also  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn,  or 
by  grafting  and  budding. 

Liyuslrum  (Privet). — White  flowers,  which 
have  rather  a  sickly  scent,  followed  by  almost 
black  berries.  Neat,  close  growing.  Good  for 
hedges.  Varieties  :  Ovalifolium  and  0.  aureum 
elegantissimum. 

Magnolia  grandifiora.  —  Named  after  Pierre 
Magnol.  Large,  bright  green  leaves.  Flowers 
from  May  or  June  till  autumn  if  the  wood  is 
well  ripened.  Increased  by  seed  and  layering, 
but  takes  from  one  to  two  years  to  root. 

Olearia  Haastii. — A  useful  shrub  ;  does  well 
in  Cheshire  and  Lancashire  and  on  the  sea  coast. 
Rhododendron. — These  are  best  grown  in  peaty 
soil,  but  the  hardiest  sorts  will  thrive  in  any 
ordinary  garden  soil  so  long  as  it  does  not  contain 
lime.  Varieties :  Caueasicum,  dwarf,  does  not 
grow  much  over  3  feet ;  flowers  white  and  rosy 
pink.  Varieties  of  caueasicum  :  Stramineum, 
pale  yellow  ;  pulcherrimum,  rose  ;  album,  white  ; 
pictum,  delicate  pink,  with  dark  spots.  R. 
dauricum  atrovirens,  flowers  bright  rosy  purple, 
sometimes  open  in  January. 

Skimmia. — Dwarf  shrubs  with  white  flowers, 
succeeded  by  red  berries.  S.  oblata  (female)  and 
S.  fragrans  (male). 

Viburnum  Tinua  (Laurustinus). — A  valuable 
winter-flowering  shrub,  the  pinkish  heads  of 
blossom  being  produced  all  through  November, 
December,  January  and  February.  Another 
variety  is  hirtum. 

Viscuvi  album  (Mistletoe)  is  not  a  shrub,  but 
should  be  grown  on  Apple  trees,  as  it  is  in  great 
demand  at  Cnristmas.  Associated  with  the 
ancient  Druids.  A  ripe  berry  needs  to  be 
squeezed  upon  a  branch  and  then  covered 
with  muslin  to  keep  off  the  birds  ;  it  will  soon 
grow. 

Vinca  (Periwinkle). — Not  exactly  shrubs,  but 
almost  so,  especially  V,  major  and  V.  m. 
elegantisaima,  which  often  continue  to  flower 
right  through  the  winter.  Will  grow  almost 
anywhere.     Spreads  very  fast. 

yucca  (Adam's  Needle). — Gloriosa  is  the 
hardiest.  Others  are  reourvifolia,  angustifolia, 
filamentosa  and  aloefolia. 

(Miss)  R.  B.  Cannon. 
14,  Christchvrch  Road,  Reading,  Berks. 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 


DECEMBER    COMPETITION.— AWARDS. 

In  this  competition  prizes  were  offered  for  the 
best  essays  on  "  The  Best  Evergreen  Shrubs  for 
Winter  Effect  and  How  to  Grow  Them."  This 
subject  proved  a  popular  one,  as  a  large  number 
of  essays  were  received.  The  prizes  are  awarded 
as  follows : 

First  prize  of  four  guineas  to  Miss  R.  B. 
Cannon,  14,  Christohurch  Road,  Reading,  Berks. 

Second  prize  of  two  guineas  to  Mr.  C.  W. 
Caulfield,  IJridgen  House,  Park  Crescent,  Erith. 

Third  prize  of  one  guinea  to  Mr.  W.  P.  Wood, 
The  Gardens,  Oaklands  Cburt,  St.  Peters,  Kent. 

Fourth  prize  of  half-a-guinea  to  Mr.  W.  L. 
Lavender,  Waltham  Manor  Gardens,  Twyford, 
Berks. 

The  essays  from  the  following  are  highly  com- 
mended :  F.  J.  Lansdell,  Edwin  Piatt,  H. 
Arnold,  A.  Dennett,  Thomas  Dent,  W.  H. 
Morton,  Mrs.  J.  E.  Mills,  W.  MoDermott  and 
G.  H.  Webster.  Many  of  the  papers  gave 
excellent  cultural  directions,  but  the  collections 
of  shrubs  named  were  generally  weak,  and  even 
in  the  best  essays  many  good  shrubs  were 
omitted. 


NOTES   OF    THE   WEEK 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*^'  The  dates  given  heloxo  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

January  21. — Gardeners'  RSyal  Benevolent 
Institution,  Annual  General  Meeting  at  Simp- 
son's, 101,  Strand,  London,  W.C.,  at  2.45  p.m. 

.lanuary  23. — French  Gardening  Society  of 
London  Annual  Dinner  at  the  Caf6  Royal, 
Regent  Street. 

May  6. — Royal  Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund 
Annual  Dinner,  the  Duke  of  Rutland  presiding. 


deficiency  has  to  be  added  the  depreciation  on  an 
investment  of  £350  in  the  Metropolitan  District 
Railway  Company,  which  has  been  written  down 
to  the  price  at  November  30  last — a  proper  step  on 
the  part  of  the  council.  The  depreciation  from 
the  price  at  which  it  formerly  stood  in  the  books 
is  £223  13s.  9d. ,  so  that  the  total  apparent  decrease 
of  funds  during  the  year  is  £398  12s.  5d.  This 
is  much  to  be  regretted,  but  it  must  be  re- 
membered that  most  of  this  really  occurred 
before  and  was  only  shown  this  time  by  writing 
down  the  railway  stock.  The  Neill  Fund  showed 
that  Dr.  J.  H.  Wilson,  .St.  Andrews,  was  paid 
the  Neill  Prize,  which  amounted  to  £31  9s.  3d. 
It  is  hoped  and  expected  that  the  accounts  for 
the  ensuing  year  will  show  a  considerable 
improvement. 


CORRESPONDENCE 

(The  Editor  is   njt  respotisiils  for   the 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


optntoTU 


Victoplan  Medals   of  the  Royal 

HOPtieultUPal  Society.— The  vacancies 
in  the  roll  caused  by  the  deaths  of  Mr.  George 
Nicholson  and  Mr.  Martin  R.  Smith  have  been 
filled  by  Sir  Jeremiah  Colman,  Birt. ,  and  Mr. 
Charles  Ross,  upon  whom  the  council  of  the 
society  have  conferred  medals.  Our  readers  will 
probably  remember  that  we  recently  published  a 
portrait  of  Mr.  Charles  Ross,  who  has  done  so 
much  to  advance  the  Apple,  and  Sir  J.  Colman 
is,  of  course,  a  well-known  Orchid  enthusiast. 

A    new    keepep    of   the    Kew 

HePbaplum. — Owing  to  the  retirement  of 
Mr.  W.  Botting  Hemsley,  F.R.S.,.  from  his 
official  post  as  keeper  of  the  herbarium  of 
the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew,  Dr.  Otto  Stapf, 
F.R.S. ,  has  been  appointed  to  this  position,  and 
Mr.  C.  H.  Wright,  A.L.S. ,  now  becomes  the 
chief  assistant  in  the  Phanerogaraia.  Mr. 
Hemsley  has  made  many  friends  during  the 
period  of  his  office,  and  his  retirement  will  be 
generally  regretted. 

The     Royal    Caledonian    Hopti- 

CUltUPal  Society.- Prior  to  the  annual 
meeting  of  the  Royal  Caledonian  Horticultural 
Society  on  January  13,  the  council  issued  their 
recommendations  tor  tilling  the  vacant  places  as 
office-bearers  and  members  of  council,  caused  by 
the  retirement  of  those  who  retire  in  rotation. 
They  recommended  the  appointment  of  the 
Right  Hon.  Lord  Dunedin  as  vice-president,  and 
Messrs.  William  Pirie,  Dalhousie  Castle  Gardens  ; 
J.  D.  Adair,  75,  Shandwiek  Place,  Edinburgh  ; 
and  A.  Malcolm,  Duns,  as  councillors.  An 
abstract  of  the  accounts  was  appended  to  the 
notices  of  the  meeting.  This  showed  that,  as 
was  feared  from  a  falling  oflf  in  the  attendances 
at  the  shows,  the  finances  are  not  in  such  a 
favourable  position  as  at  the  end  of  the  previous 
year.  The  net  excess  of  expenditure  over  income 
amounted  to  no  less  than  £  176  lis.  2d.     To  this 


How  to  pid  a  g'apden  of  field  mice. 

I  should  be  glad  if  any  reader  would  inform  me  of 
some  means  of  getting  rid  of  a  number  of  field 
mice  who  have  located  themselves  in  my  garden. 
They  appear  to  come  in  battalions  and  eat  up 
green  things,  especially  choice  young  cuttings. 
I  am  averse  to  putting  poison  on  the  ground  as  I 
keep  a  pet  dog.  Possibly  someone  may  know  of 
some  method  of  eradicating  this  pest.  The 
garden  is  fairly  large  and  is  surrounded  by  large 
grounds. — H.  E.  C. 

Sutton's  White  City  Potato.— In  the 
very  fine  seed  catalogue  just  issued  for  the  current 
year  by  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons  is  a  large 
picture  of  a  crop,  just  as  lifted,  of  their  new 
White  City  Potato.  The  illustration  shows  the 
crop  of  10(3  roots  as  lifted,  without  being  handled 
or  in  any  way  distributed.  It  is  the  first  picture  of 
a  Potato  so  far  yet  presented  in  that  way.  As  I, 
with  a  well-known  North  Hampshire  gardener 
were,  other  than  a  few  members  of  Messrs. 
Sutton  and  Sons'  staff,  the  only  persons  who  saw 
this  crop,  I  can  testify  to  the  correctness  of  the 
illustration  and  also  that  the  crop  was  indeed  a 
splendid  one.  It  was  specially  pleasurable  to 
see  it,  because  it  presented  an  entire  break  away 
from  the  Up-to-Date  strain,  the  parents  of  this 
novelty  being  Abundance  and  Langworthy.  I 
have  had  cooked  tubers  of  it,  grown  on  very  stiflF 
soil  in  Surrey,  and  found  them  to  be  the  nearest 
reminder  of  the  old  Victoria  of  any  Potato  I  have 
tasted  for  many  years.  The  variety  is  a  strong 
grower,  late  ripener,  long  keeper,  produces  no 
huge  tubers,  but  all  of  good  table  size,  and  comes 
very  free  from  disease. — A.  Dean. 

The  "seapcity"  of  Holly  beppies. 

I  have  read  in  several  papers,  in  addition  to  the 
notes  by  correspondents  to  The  Garden,  on  the 
scarcity  of  Holly  berries  this  season.  It  would 
appear  from  these  that  the  lack  of  berried  Holly 
is  almost  general.  Looking  at  the  numerous 
Holly  trees  on  this  estate,  the  prevailing  idea 
that  berries  are  scarce  is  hard  to  realise,  for  here 
they  are — or  have  been  until  recently — simply 
smothered  with  berries,  so  much  so  that  no  one 
appears  to  remember  having  seen  better.  The 
birds,  too,  which  some  seasons  almost  strip 
the  trees  before  Christmas,  have  been  very 
sparing  with  them,  this  leniency  on  their  part 
being  probably  due  to  the  exceptionally  mild 
weather.  As  a  contrast  to  this  season's  plentiful 
supply,  last  year  there  was  hardly  a  berry  to 
be  found,  and  we  had  recourse  to  the  use  of 
Cotoneaster  and  Pernettya,  which  we  mixed  with 
Holly  branches.  To  give  the  appearance  of  the 
genuine  article  for  decorating,  and  by  artificial 
light  at  least,  this  proved  a  good  substitute  ;  but 
nothing  to  my  mind  can  quite  take  its  place  for 
Christmas  decorations,  for,  added  to  its  undoubted 
beauty,  a  touch  of  sentiment  seems  to  cling  to 
the  Holly  for  the  festive  season. — A.  J.  Cobb, 
Duffryn,  Cardiff. 


January  16,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


27 


A  note  from  British  Columbia.— 

It  might  be  interesting  to  the  readers  of  The 
Garden  to  know  how  Hydrangea  hortensis  and 
its  varieties  behave  here  in  Victoria  and  vicinity. 
Often  I  have  seen  the  flowers  partly  blue  and 
partly  pink,  and  then,  again,  some  plants  blue 
and  some  pink  growing  side  by  side.  A  gentle- 
man came  to  me  a  short  time  ago  and  said  that 
he  wanted  blue  Hydrangeas  like  his  neighbour's. 
He  said  that  those  he  had  previously  got  from 
me  were  pink,  and  it  was  difficult  to  believe  that 
they  were  all  one  species  (H.  hortensis).  I 
passed  his  place  a  few  days  afterwards  and  saw 
that  his  neighbour  (just  over  the  fence)  had  a 
row  of  beautiful  blue  ones,  while  the  others  a 
few  yards  away  were  a  very  fine  pink.  On  my 
place  I  never  had  blue  Hydrangeas  either  outside 
or  under  glass  until  last  spring,  when  I  had  a 
batch  of  about  100  ;  they  were  H.  Thomas  Hogg, 
Otaksa  and  rosea.  Plants  of  each  variety  came 
blue  and  some  only  partly  blue,  others  pink  and 
white,  according  to  the  varieties.  AH  these 
plants  had  been  treated  exactly  alike  in  each 
case.  I  have  written  before  about  Cotoneaster 
angustifolia,  but  I  would  like  to  say  a  little  more 
in  favour  of  this  beautiful  shrub.  I  was  passing 
a  gentleman's  residence  when  my  attention  was 
attracted  by  a  mass  of  beautiful  yellow  berries 
among  lovely  evergreen  foliage.  It  was  quite  a 
distance  from  the  road,  but  on  closer  inspection  I 
saw  that  it  was  a  magnificent  plant  of  C. 
angustifolia,  about  8  feet  high,  trained  to  the  side 
of  the  house,  and  it  was  a  plant  that  I  had  sold 
two  years  previous.  About  a  week  later  I  was 
asked  to  visit  a  garden  twenty  miles  away  from 
Victoria,  and  there  again  I  found  another  C. 
angustifolia  that  I  had  sold,  and  it  also  was  a  very 
fine  plant  about  the  same  height  as  tne  above 
mentioned,  but  not  so  freely  berried. — G.  A. 
Knight,  Mount  Tolmie  Nursery,  Victoria,  B.  C. 

Plants   in  flower  on  Christmas 

Day. — I  send  herewith  a  list  of  the  plants  that 
were  in  bloom  in  the  open  garden  here  on 
Christmas  Day,  which  may  prove  of  interest  to 
readers.  At  present  we  have  not  got  a  large 
collection,  and  many  other  gardens  could  show  a 
much  larger  list  of  choice  things.  I  also  send 
you  a  photograph  of  the  largest  of  two  plants  of 
Solanum  Balbisii,  taken  last  month.  These  two 
plants  are  growing  on  an  east  border  in  a 
sheltered  walled  garden  and  have  been  in  almost 
constant  bloom.  They  passed  through  last  winter 
safely,  although  not  far  from  them  an  exposed 
thermometer  on  two  occasions  registered  9° 
of  frost  and  several  times  between  5°  and  7°. 
Growing  close  to  them  are  plants  of  Rhodochiton 
volubile,  Daturus,  Dimorphotheca  Eeklonis, 
Lavandula  stcechas  (dentata),  scented  -  leaved 
Pelargonium  and  Freesias,  which  also  passed 
through  the  winter  quite  unhurt.  D.aphne  indiea 
is  growing  in  a  more  open  and  exposed  position, 
but  is  quite  happy  and  will  soon  have  plenty  of 
bloom.  I  believe  this  plant  is  not  half  so  tender 
as  is  generally  supposed.  The  Cinerarias  have 
been  quite  a  feature  in  the  garden  ;  they  are 
fine  plants  and  are  now  blooming  quite  as  well 
as  those  grown  in  pots  under  glass,  and  if  un- 
touched by  frost  will  continue  for  a  long  time. 
Rhodochiton  volubile,  Clianthus  punieeus, 
Solanum  Balbisii,  Datura  sanguinea,  Fuchsia 
reflexa.  Fuchsia  hybrids.  Chrysanthemums, 
Salvia  rutilans,  S.  splendens,  S.  coecinea, 
Roses,  Sparmannia  africana,  Cineraria  stellata. 
Cineraria  hybrids,  Senecio  Heritieri,  Mar- 
guerites {yellow  and  white),  Pyrus  japonica. 
Antirrhinums,  Geraniums,  Coronilla  glauca, 
Violas,  Phlox  Drummondii,  Nasturtiums, 
Wallflowers,  Stocks,  Polyanthuses,  Matricaria 
eximium,  Cobaji  scandens,  Eceremocarpus  scaber. 
Anemones,  Cerinthe  retorta,  Lavandula  stojchas 
<dentata),  Helleborus  niger,  Daphne  indiea  rubra, 
Violets,  Aretotis,  Primula  sinensis.  Auriculas, 
Laurustinus,  Echeveria  metallica.  Hydrangeas, 
Berberis  Darwinii,  Erica  lusitanica,  E.  carnea 
rosea.  Daphne  Laureola,  Nicotiana  Sanderje,  N. 
affinis,  N.  sylvestris,  Eupatorium  weinmannianum. 
Cyclamen   Coum,  Iberis  sempervirens,  Alyssum 


maritimum,  Gorse,  Forget-me-not,  Snowdrops, 
Iris  stylosa,  Veronica  and  Roman  Hyacinths. — 
F.  Mabk,  The  Gardens,  Trevissome,  Flushing, 
near  Falmouth.  [Unfortunately,  the  photograph 
sent  was  not  suitable  for  reproduction. — ^Ed.  ] 

A  Crocus  flowering:  without  soil. 

The  accompanying  illustration  is  of  interest  as 
showing  the  extraordinary  vitality  possessed  by 
many  bulbous  plants.  The  Crocus  here  por- 
trayed was  one  that  escaped  planting  in  the 
autumn  of  1907,  and  it  remained  outdoors  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil  the  whole  of  the  winter  of 
1907-8.  With  the  advent  of  spring,  however,  its 
marvellous  vitality  could  no  longer  be  suppressed, 
and  it  burst  forth  in  all  the  splendour  of  its  four 
large  golden  blooms,  when  it  caught  the  eye  of  its 
loving  owner,  who  promptly  photographed  it. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  practically  no  roots  were 
formed,  and  it  is  safe  to  assume  that  the  corm 
was  a  particularly  well-ripened  one,  or,  to  be 
more  correct,  was  well  stored  with  reserve  food, 
which  was  used  to  develop  the  flowers. 

Unseasonable    flowering:    of 

shrubs. —This  season  has  been  remarkable 
for  the  flowering  in  winter  of  many  shrubs  and 
trees  whose  usual  period  of  blossoming  occurs  in 


A  CROCUS  FLOWERING    WITHOni  SOIL. 

the  spring.  In  the  South-west  Choisya  ternata  and 
Cytisus  racemosus,  though  bearing  most  profusely 
in  the  spring,  generally  perfect  an  autumnal  crop 
of  bloom,  and  these  were  at  the  end  of  the  year 
covered  with  flowers.  Pittosporum  Tobira  often 
bears  a  scattering  of  autumnal  flowers,  but  this 
season  it  is  covered  with  blossom.  Laburnums, 
too,  in  many  oases  are  flowering  with  a  spring-like 
abundance,  and  in  one  instance  a  May  tree  is 
coming  into  bloom.  Olearia  stellulata  has,  within 
the  last  month,  come  into  full  flower,  and  I  see 
that  my  bush  of  Leptospermum  scoparium  has 
hundreds  of  expanded  blossoms  on  it.  Calceo- 
laria Burbidgei  was,  the  third  week  in  December, 
a  mass  of  flower  in  the  open  garden,  and  with 
me  Correi  eardinalis  is  already  bearing  its  scarlet 
blossoms  and  Abelia  rupestris  is  in  bloom,  while 
I  noticed  one  flower-truss  on  Abelia  floribunda  in 
the  border.  Other  shrubs  that  are  bearing  flowers 
are  Grevillea  rosmarinifolia  and  Convolvulus 
Cneorum.  The  extraordinary  mildness  of  the 
weather  experienced  until  Christmas  has  doubt- 
less been  instrumental  in  inducing  this  abnormal 
flowering,  for  until  December  29,  when  2°  of 
frost  was  registered,  the  thermometer  had  never 
fallen  below  freezing  point  since  the  summer. 
On  December  30  the  thermometer  showed  4°  of 
frost.— 'S.  W.  FlTZHERBERT,  Kingswear,  South 
Devon. 


THE     GREENHOUSE. 

VALLOTA   PURPUREA  AND   ITS 
CULTURE. 

THIS  plant,  popularly  known  as  the 
Scarborough  Lily,  is  a  native  of 
South  Africa  and,  in  common  with 
most  bulbs  from  that  region,  needs 
the  protection  of  a  greenhouse  or  a 
good  light  position  in  the  dwelling- 
house  where  it  is  quite  safe  from  frost  during 
the  winter.  Like  many  of  its  allies,  natives  of 
the  same  region,  this  plant,  immediately  after 
blooming,  continues  to  perfect  its  growth  ready 
for  another  season,  so  that,  when  the  flowers  are 
over,  a  light  spot  in  the  greenhouse  near  the  glass 
should  be  assigned  it.  Water  must  be  given, 
even  at  that  time,  whenever  necessary  ;  indeed,  if 
the  pots  are  full  of  healthy  roots,  a  dose  of  weak 
liquid  manure  will  be  of  service.  Given  this 
treatment  the  Vallota  will  continue  to  push  up 
leaves  throughout  the  entire  winter  and  for  a 
time  in  the  spring,  after  which  it  takes  a  partial 
rest ;  but  at  no  time  does  it  become  so  thoroughly 
dormant  as  to  need  the  parching  up  that  Nerines 
require  to  induce  them  to  flower  well.  Indeed, 
the  Vallota  thrives  best  if  the  soil  is  kept 
slightly  or  moderately  moist,  increasing  the  water 
supply  as  the  flower-spikes  appear. 

The  bulbs  of  the  Vallota  by  no  means  need 
repotting  every  year,  hence,  when  this  operation 
is  carried  out,  the  potting  compost  should  be 
such  as  will  remain  in  good  condition  for  a  long 
time.  Yellow  loam  lightened  by  a  little  well- 
decayed  leaf  manure  and  a  liberal  sprinkling  of 
silver  sand  just  suits  the  Vallota.  As  above 
stated,  annual  repotting  is  not  necessary,  for 
even  when  the  bulbs  are  tightly  packed  in  the 
pots  they  will  grow  and  flower  well  year  after 
year.  In  the  case  of  imported  bulbs  they  should, 
of  course,  be  potted  immediately  on  receipt  ;  but 
the  best  time  of  the  year  to  repot  established 
plants  is  in  the  summer  just  before  growth 
recommences  and  the  flower-stems  are  pushed  up. 
Concerning  the  varieties,  the  old-fashioned 
typical  sort  is  of  rather  dwarf  growth  and  has 
fine  round  flowers  of  a  deep  scarlet  colour.  Since 
the  South  African  War  we  have  had  large 
quantities  of  bulbs  imported  from  that  district, 
and,  as  a  rule,  they  are  taller,  with  more  starry 
flowers,  and  altogether  inferior  to  the  Vallota 
purpurea  of  old.  A  well-marked  variety,  and 
by  no  means  a  novelty,  is  that  known  as  eximia, 
of  rather  dwarf  growth,  while  the  flowers  are 
large,  round  in  outline  and  in  colour  bright 
scarlet,  with  a  whitish  throat.  In  the  variety 
magnifica  the  growth  is  tall  and  the  flowers  self- 
coloured.  Besides  these,  pink  and  salmon  pink 
forms  are  occasionally  met  with  among  imported 
bulbs,  but  whether  the  change  of  colouring  in 
their  case  is  due  to  an  inherent  weakness  of 
constitution  I  cannot  say  ;  at  all  events,  they 
are  extremely  difficult  to  establish. 

By  repute  there  is,  or  has  been,  a  white- 
flowered  form,  but  I  have  never  yet  met  with  it. 
There  is,  however,  a  pretty  hybrid  in  cultivation 
obtained  by  the  intercrossing  of  Vallota  purpurea 
with  Cyrtanthus  (Gastronema)  sanguineus, 
which  was  first  raised  about  twenty-five  years 
ago.  This,  known  as  Cyrtanthus  (Gastronema) 
hybridus,  is  a  smaller  and  more  slender  plant 
than  the  Vallota,  while  the  fiowers  of  the 
different  individuals  vary  somewhat  in  colour. 
Its  cultural  requirements  are  just  the  same 
as  those  previously  advise  1  for  the  Vallota, 
and  it  flowers  at  about  the  same  season  of  the 
year.  H.  P. 

GLOXINIAS    FROM    SEED. 

The  Gloxinia  has  now  for  some  years  past  been 
coming  to  the  front  as  a  popular  favourite,  and 
the  skilful  work  of  the  hybridist  has  been  the 
means  of  placing  on  the  mirket  such  fine 
examples  of  this  truly  gorgeous  greenhouse 
perennial  that  it  is  well  worth  the  while  of  all 


28 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[January  16,  1909. 


win  possess  a  glass-house — ^and  in  these  days  of 
cheap  horticultural  structures  their  name  is 
legion — to  include  a  few  of  the  erect-flowering 
forms  in  their  stock  of  summer  and  autumn- 
flowering  plants. 

The  Gloxinias  from  which  the  present  garden 
varieties  take  their  origin  are  natives  of  Tropical 
America,  and  were  so  named  in  honour  of 
Benjamin  P.  Gloxin,  a  botanist  of  Colma.  Their 
propagation  from  seeds  is  simple — as  easy,  in  fact, 
as  that  of  Begonias — and,  with  a  little  care  and 
generous  treatment  as  to  temperature  in  the 
early  months  of  the  year,  they  may  be  depended 
upon  to  produce  a  most  gorgeous  floral  display 
during  several  months  of  the  late  summer  and 
early  autumn  of  the  same  year  in  which  the 
sowings  were  made.  Tubers  of  the  very  best 
erect-flowered  varieties  are  rather  expensive,  so 
that  a  few  practical  hints  as  to  their  culture 
from  seeds  will  prove,  perhaps,  not  unwelcome  to 
those  readers  who  desire  to  obtain  a  good  stock 
of  plants,  and  who  are  not  averse  to  a  little 
trouble  in  the  early  stages  of  their  growth. 

Propagation. 

Gloxinia  seeds  are  exceedingly  minute,  so  that 
some  care  is  necessary  in  the  sowing  and  the 
preparation  of  the  pots  and  soil  for  their 
reception.  A  shallow  seed-pan  or,  failing  this, 
an  ordinary  flower-pot  should  be  carefully 
crocked  to  within  2h  inches  of  its  top,  and  on  the 
crocks  a  layer  of  rough  fibry  material  placed  to 
prevent  the  soil  washing  down  into  the  drainage, 
and  this  covered  with  a  compost  consisting  of 
equal  parts  of  loam  and  good  leaf-mould,  with  a 
fair  sprinkling  of  fine  potting  sand  to  the  depth 
of  about  1  i  inches.  The  compost  should  be  well 
mixed,  baked  to  get  rid  of  insects  and  destroy 
fungus  spores,  and  passed  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Some  pure  leaf-mould  should  then  be  taken,  well 
baked  and  rubbed  through  a  very  fine  sieve  (such 
as  is  used  in  the  kitchen  for  straining  gravy), 
placed  on  the  top  of  the  compost  to  the  depth  of 
about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  and  carefully  levelled. 
The  pot  or  pan  must  now  be  placed  in  water, 
the  level  of  which  should  be  just  below  the  top 


one  and  should  not  be  overlooked  when  dealing 
with  Gloxinia,  Begonia  or  other  minute  seeds  ; 
it  does  not  readily  "  cake  "  as  pure  loam  would, 
nor  is  the  troublesome  liverwort,  which  so  often 
develops  on  the  surface  of  pot  soil,  likely  to  appear, 
and  therefore  the  inevitable  loss  of  a  large  per- 
centage of  the  minute  seedlings  will  be  avoided. 
The  pots  may  now  be  plunged  up  to  their  rims 
in  fibre  in  a  propagator  or  other  heated  structure 
where  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  (the  latter  for 
preference)  can  be  maintained,  covered  with  a 
piece  of  glass  to  conserve  the  moisture,  and  the 
whole  heavily  shaded,  a  piece  of  brown  paper 
being  well  adapted  for  this  purpose.  The  soil 
must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry,  and  when- 
ever water  is  needed  it  should  be  applied  by 
immersing  the  pan  nearly  up  to  the  rim  and  not 
by  means  of  a  rose  or  syringe  overhead  ;  warm 
water  (70'^)  should  always  be  used.  The  pro- 
pagator should  be  kept  close  and  only  opened  for 
a  short  time  morning  and  evening  to  allow  the 
stagnant  air  to  become  changed,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  inside  of  the  glass  must  be  wiped  dry  ; 
neglect  of  this  may  result  in  wholesale  damping 
ott'  of  the  seedlings. 

In  about  ten  days  the  tiny  plants  will  begin  to 
make  their  appearance,  and  the  brown  paper 
shading  must  then  be  removed  and  full  exposure 
to  light  given,  but  protection  from  the  sun's 
rays  must  be  afforded  by  means  of  tissue  paper 
or  light  muslin.  While  the  first  pair  of  rough  or 
true  leaves  are  in  process  of  formation  is  the 
best  time  to  prick  out  the  seedlings  into  shallow 
pans  or  boxes,  using  a  compost  as  before,  but 
omitting  the  layer  of  leaf-mould  on  the  top.  At 
this  early  stage  pricking  out  is  a  somewhat 
tedious  and  troublesome  operation,  but  it  is 
important  to  take  it  in  hand  before  the  little 
rootlets  have  had  time  to  run  far  and  thus  avoid 
a  severe  check  to  the  plants.  For  lifting,  a  small 
zinc  plant  label,  in  the  pointed  end  of  which  a 
V-shaped  notch  has  been  cut,  will  be  found  a 
very  efficient  tool,  as  it  may  be  bent  to  any 
angle  required.  Each  plant  should  be  levered 
out  of  the  soil  by  means  of  a  large  match  with 
one  end  pointed,  carefully  lifted  with  the  notched 


GLOXINIAS   FLOWERING    THE    SAME    YEAR   AS    RAISED    FROM    SEED. 


of  the  soil,  and  allowed  to  remain  therein  until 
the  whole  is  thoroughly  soaked,  when,  the 
superfluous  water  having  been  allowed  to  drain, 
the  seeds  may  be  sown. 

Sowing  the  Seeds. 

Gloxinia  seeds  being  so  very  small,  it  is  im- 
possible to  scatter  them  evenly  and  thinly  with 
the  fingers,  and  they  should  therefore  be  mixed 
with  a  little  fine  silver  sand  and  the  mixture 
scattered  carefully  over  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
No  covering  is  necessary,  or  at  the  most  a  verj* 
slight  sprinkling  of  the  fine-powdered  leaf-mould. 
It  may  be  here  stated  that  the  object  of  having 
the  top  layer  of  pure  leaf-mould  is  an  important 


label,  and  deposited  into  a  small  hole  made  in  the 
new  soil  with  a  pointed  stick  and  carefully 
dibbled  in.  In  this  way  it  will  not  be  necessary 
to  touch  the  plants  at  all  with  the  fingers.  As 
already  stated,  this  will  require  time  and 
patience,  but  it  is  surprising  how  quickly  and 
neatly  it  may  be  done  with  a  little  practice. 
The  seedlings  should  be  planted  about  1  inch 
apart  and  the  pan  containing  them  then  im- 
mersed in  a  vessel  of  water  as  described  above, 
allowed  to  drain,  and  then  be  put  back  again 
in  the  propagator  and  kept  close  for  a  few  days 
till  root-action  is  again  vigorous. 

From  this  time  full  exposure  to  light  (with  the 
pans  near  the  glass),  but  not  to  direct  sunlight. 


must  be  given  ;  a  sturdy  and  robust  growth  will 
then  result.  As  soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to 
touch  one  another  a  further  shift  must  be  given, 
this  time  planting  singly  in  2J-inch  pots,  care- 
fully crooked  and  filled  with  soil  consisting  of 
loam  two  parts,  leaf-mould  and  fibrous  peat  of 
each  one  part,  with  about  half  a  part  of  coarse 
potting  sand,  the  soil  being  made  moderately 
firm  about  the  roots  and  the  whole  moistened  by 
standing  the  pots  for  a  few  minutes  up  to  their 
rims  in  water. 

From  now  onwards  the  plants  should  be  shaded 
from  bright  sunlight  and  kept  on  a  shelf  near  the 
glass  in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°.  The  soil 
should  be  kept  moist,  but  the  leaves  must  not  be 
wetted.  When  the  roots  begin  to  work  well 
round  the  sides  of  the  pots — which  may  be 
ascertained  by  carefully  turning  out  the  ball  of 
soil  by  inverting  the  pot — the  final  shift  should 
be  given  into  5-inch  pots,  this  size  being  the 
most  suitable  for  flowering  in  the  first  year.  The 
compost  for  this  potting  must  be  carefully 
prepared  and  consist  of  good  mellow  fibrous  loam 
three  parts,  himpy  peat  one  part,  leaf-mould  one 
part,  and  a  fair  sprinkling  of  coarse  sand  to  keep 
the  soil  porous  ;  a  little  guano  or  of  one  of  the 
advertised  fertilisers  may  also  be  added  with 
advantage. 

Under  this  treatment  and  the  influence  of  a 
genial  temperature  the  first  of  the  plants 
raised  in  January  should  come  into  flower  in  July, 
and  there  should  be  a  brilliant  display  during 
August  and  September  and  on  into  October. 
Occasional  weak  doses  of  liquid  manure  will  assist 
in  the  development  of  the  flowers.  The 
illustration  shows  part  of  a  batch  of  Sutton's 
Giant  Gloxinias  flowering  in  July,  the  result 
of  seeds  sown  earlj'  in  January.  This  strain  is 
a  fine  one,  the  flowers  erect  and  well  formed,  and 
the  colours  including  pure  white,  white  spotted 
and  blotched  with  various  colours,  cherry,  red, 
cerise,  various  shades  of  pink,  red  and  purple, 
and  violet,  making  altogether  a  most  gorgeous 
display. 

Gloxinias  enjoy  during  growth  a  fair  amount 
of  moisture,  but  during  the  flowering  season 
somewhat  drier  surroundings  will  result  in  a 
prolonged  flowering  period.  The  best  tempera- 
ture to  grow  Gloxinias  in  is  about  60°  to  65°,  but 
they  will,  when  once  started,  do  quite  well 
during  the  summer  months  in  a  greenhouse  in 
which  there  is  no  artificial  heat. 

In  conclusion,  let  it  be  impressed  on  those 
contemplating  the  culture  of  these  charming 
plants  to  always  procure  the  best  seed  obtain- 
able, and  probably  what  is  known  as  "  mixed  " 
seed,  producing  as  it  does  a  great  variety  of 
colours  and  shades,  will  give  the  most  satisfac- 
tory results,  with  every  possibility  of  obtaining 
some  novelties  as  to  size  and  colour. 

RoDiER  Heath. 

Brntonia,  Westham,  Weymouth. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN 


SEED-SOWING  IN   THE  VEGETABLE 
GARDEN. 

THE  New  Year's  seed  catalogues  will 
now  be  in  hand  and  the  work  of 
drawing  up  the  seed  order  will  need 
attention.  The  enthusiastic  gardener, 
both  amateur  and  professional,  is 
always  on  the  look-out  for  something 
new,  and  he  seldom  fails  to  find  a  list  of  novelties 
when  searching  his  New  Year's  seed  list.  It 
must  be  remembered  that,  however  good  these 
new  varieties  have  been  proved  to  be,  it  can 
hardly  be  expected  that  they  will  meet  with 
success  under  all  conditions.  Climate,  soil  and 
methods  of  cultivation  difl'er  so  materially  that 
the  most  successful  crop  in  one  garden  may  be 
quite  a  failure  elsewhere,  even  when  given  the 
best  attention.  It  is  for  this  reason  that  older 
and  proved  varieties  should   not    be   discarded. 


Janitary  16,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


29 


Novelties  should  certainly  be  given  a  trial 
wherever  possible,  as  owing  to  the  care  given  by 
seedsmen  to  the  selection  and  trial  of  their  stocks, 
many  new  and  excellent  varieties  are  annually 
placed  before  the  public. 

Every  gardener  is  eager  to  sow  seeds  of  some 
vegetables  as  early  as  possible  in  the  open  ground, 
and  often  a  spell  of  cold  or  wet  weather  during 
the   months   of   January,  February   and    March 
causes  much    anxiety,  especially  on  heavy  clay 
soils.     It  is  much  better  to  wait  until  the  ground 
is  fairly  dry  and  can  be  worked  with  ease  than  to 
attempt  to    prepare  for  seed-sowing   when    the 
soil  is  wet  and  adheres  to  the  boots  and  tools  of 
the  workman.     I  have  often  seen  a  plank  used  to 
stand  on  while  drills  are  being  prepared  on  bor- 
ders for  early  Peas,  and  on  light  soils  this  is  to 
be  recommended,   but   it  is  doubtful 
whether  the  practice  is  advisable  on 
heavy  soils.     Seeds  for  the  supply  of 
early   crops  should  always    be   sown 
somewhat   thicker    than    for    succes- 
sional  crops,  owing  to  the  risk  of  the 
seeds     or    the    young    plants    being 
destroyed  either  by  inclement  weather 
or  by  vermin. 

Peas,  which  everyone  is  very  anxious 
to  have  as  early  as  possible,  are  liable 
to  rot  should  a  period  of  cold,  wet 
weather  ensue,  also,  if  not  protected, 
they  may  fall  a  prey  to  mice  or  birds. 
It  may  not  be  possible  in  all  eases  to 
prevent  the  first  of  these  evils, 
although  with  the  aid  of  spare  lights 
much  may  be  done  in  this  way.  Mice 
may  be  kept  from  doing  much  harm 
if   the  seed    is  dusted  with  red  lead  ' 

before  sowing,  also  bj'  tlie  aid  of  traps 
or  poison  where  it  is  safe  for  the 
latter  to  be  used.  Perhaps  the  best 
protection  against  birds  is  the  gal- 
vanized wire  Pea  protectors,  or  the 
humble  but  effectual  black  thread. 
Remember  that  "Prevention  is  better 
than  cure,"  and  guard  against  all  these 
evils  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed. 

Broad  Beans  are  one  of  the  earliest 
crops  sown  out  of  doors,  and  fortu- 
nately these  are  not  so  liable  to  injury 
as  many  others,  neither  are  they  so 
fastidious  as  to  the  state  of  the  soil, 
heavy   soils    often    producing    abundant    crops. 
They  must,  however,  be  guarded  against  vermin, 
and  slugs  will  sometimes  cause  much  damage  to 
the  plants  when  young  and  tender. 

Other  crops  which  are  generally  sown  early 
are  Turnips,  Spinach,  Lettuce,  early  Carrots  and 
Parsley.  Turnips  quickly  germinate  if  the 
weather  is  favourable,  and  are  just  as  quickly 
destroyed  by  the  ubiquitous  sparrow.  Bird 
netting  or  thread  should  be  spread  over  the  seed- 
bed to  prevent  the  onslaught  of  these  feathered 
marauders.  A  very  small  quantity  of  Lettuce 
seed  will  suffice  for  this  early  sowing,  and  one  of 
the  quick-hearting  Cabbage  varieties  is  the  best 
for  this  purpose.  These  make  very  fast  growth 
in  genial  spring  weather  and  are  mvch  appre- 
ciated, but  a  small  quantity  only  is  required  for 
the  supply  of  a  moderate  household,  as  they 
mature  so  quickly  and  are  apt  to  run  to  seed. 
Spinach  may  be  sown  fairly  thick,  and,  as  soon 
as  the  leaves  are  large  enough  for  use,  withdraw 
the  young  plants  where  they  are  too  crowded 
(leaving  the  rest  to  develop)  and  pinch  off  the 
roots.  This  early  tender  Spinach  makes  a  most 
acceptable  vegetable. 

Eirly  Carrots  are  always  in  demand,  and,  for- 
tunately, there  are  varieties  of  very  quick  growth : 
these,  when  sown  on  a  warm  border  in  light  soil, 
are  one  of  the  most  important  crops,  especially 
where  no  facilities  exist  for  raising  early  vege- 
tables on  hot-beds.  Parsley,  although  some  time 
in  growing,  should,  for  this  very  reason,  be  sown 
early,  as  during  severe  winters  the  supply  often 
runs  very  short.  The  young  plants  are  eagerly 
looked  for,  and  every  inducement  should  be  given 
them  to  m^ke  sturdy  growth,  C.  Ruse. 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN. 


THE  NEW  APPLE  WILLIAM  CRUMP. 

THIS  new  dessert  Apple,  produced  by 
crossing  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  with 
Worcester  Pearmain,  and  which  was 
raised  on  the  Madresfield  Court  estate, 
promises  to  make  a  formidable  rival 
to  its  popular  parent  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin.  When  tasted  by  the  fruit  committee  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  on  the  22nd  ult., 
it  was  found  to  be  richly  flavoured,  having  yellow- 
tinted  flesh,  quite  firm,  and  the  colour  of  the 
fruits  approaching  that  of  Worcester  Pearmain. 
Mr.  W.  Crump,  after  whom  it  is  named,  though  not 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 


ROSES    BY    THE    SEA. 


H 


OW  I  wish  we  could  grow  such 
Roses  by  the  sea  1  "  has  often  been 
remarked  by  my  friends  ;  and 
seeing  so  many  queries  upon  the 
same  subject  is  my  excuse  for  a 
few  words.  More  often  than  not 
the  soil  is  at  fault.  This  is  especially  the  case  on 
chalky  coasts.  With  a  little  trouble  this  need 
not  be  a  hindrance.  We  do  not  begrudge  labour 
in  making  Vine  and  other  borders,  and,  when 
half  of  the  same  would  secure  us  good  soil  for 
Roses,  there  is  no  reason  why  we  should  not 
enjoy  them.     Many  subjects  besides  Roses  will 


THE    NEW    DESSERT  APPLE    WILLIAJI    CRUMP.      (Natural  Size.) 


the  raiser,  not  only  knows  it  well,  but  has  worked 
it  to  form  good-sized  bush  trees,  and  can  thus 
speak  of  it  with  authority.  In  Worcestershire,  he 
tells  us,  the  richly-coloured  Worcester  Pearmain 
is  regarded  by  the  market  growers  as  the  best 
paying  Apple  for  dessert,  its  good  cropping 
qualities  and  rich  colour  greatly  aiding  in  that 
direction.  But  these  growers  are  asking  for  a 
later  richly-coloured  variety  to  follow  Worcester 
Pearmain,  and  it  is  expected  that  the  new  variety 
William  Crump  will  satisfy  their  longings.  It  is 
a  free  cropper,  has  robust,  healthy  growth,  and 
iu  those  respects  materially  excels  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin,  which  is  not  alft'ays  a  satisfactorj'  grower. 


FORCING   STRAWBERRIES. 

Suc'CESSiONAL  batches  of  these  should  be  intro 
duced  periodically  into  the  structures  where  the 
conditions  are  favourable  for  a  gentle  start  into 
growth,  remembering  that  as  the  season  pro- 
gresses fewer  plants  will  meet  the  demands  for 
fruit,  and  that  the  time  necessary  for  the  fruits 
to  mature  will  become  gradually  shorter.  The 
first  condition  necessary  to  success  is  a  well- 
rooted,  well-developed  crown,  and  with  such 
plants  no  bottom-heat  is  required.  A  temperature 
ranging  between  45°  and  55°  will  do  to  begin  with, 
gradually  raising  it  till  the  plants  begin  to  show 
flower,  when  they  should  be  removed  to  a  light 
and  airy  structure  and  kept  near  the  glass  in  a 
temperature  of  from  65°  to  70°.  Care  should  be 
taken  at  this  point  not  to  allow  the  roots  to 
become  too  dry,  or  a  bad  set  will  be  the  result. 
The  opening  flowers  should  be  brushed  over  with 
a  camel-hair  brush  to  fertilise  them. 


not  thrive  when  exposed  direct  to  the  sea  air  ; 
it  is  a  little  too  salt,  and  tiie  winds  are  even  a 
worst  feature,  but  with  the  least  shelter  from 
these  there  can  be  no  better  position  for  Roses. 
An  open  position  is  often  recommended  for  these, 
but  a  clear  sweep  of  several  miles  is  going  to  the 
other  extreme.  The  whole  secret  is  soil  and  a 
little  screen  from  winds. 

Two  years  ago  we  had  to  plant  a  large  number 
of  Roses  by  the  seaside,  and  it  was  remarkable 
the  different  ways  these  grew,  evea  when  a  very 
short  distance  apart.  A  point  not  sufficiently 
considered  is  the  enormous  amount  of  builders' 
refuse  and  bad  soil  from  excavations  that  gets 
shot  down  at  the  most  convenient  spot  Scarcely 
any  plant  will  thrive  in  this,  and  there  is 
nothing  less  suitable  for  Roses  on  their  own  roots 
or  even  upon  stocks.  Replace  some  of  this 
with  good  loam  and  suitable  manure,  and  it 
should  be  easy  to  have  Roses  in  almost  any  form. 
Remember,  too,  what  quick  and  excessive  drainage 
is  provided  by  chalk  and  builders'  rubbish. 

Roses  are  deep  feeders  and  soon  exhaust  the 
soil.  Of  course,  each  position  needs  a  little 
different  treatment  to  get  the  best  results,  but 
the  main  point  is  soil.  A  few  very  good  Roses 
for  the  seaside  garden  are  :  Viscountess 
Folkestone,  Corallina,  Captain  Christy,  Dupuy 
■Jamain,  Margaret  Dickson,  Mrs.  J(jhn  Laing, 
Mme.  Lambard,LaToscaandGeneralJacqueminot 
among  dwarfs.  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Mme.  Alfred 
CarriiJre  and  Ards  Rover  are  good  climbers  for  a 
wall ;  while  over  porches  and  archways  we  can 
have  Aimee  Vibert,  Scandens,  Dorothy  Perkins, 
Crimson  Rambler  and,  in  short,  almost  any  that 
do  well  in  similar  positions  inland.  A.  P. 


30 


THE     GARDEN. 


[January  16, 1909 


PERPETUAL-FLOWERING 
AMERICAN      CARNATIONS 

f Continued  from   Vol.  LXXII.,  page  Gil.) 
S  one  purpose  for  which  these  Carnations 


getting  established,  will  be  about  the  right  time   and   then  ''throughout   the  autumn    and  winter 
to  give  them  their  first  stop.     This  is  done  by  j  whenever  required. 


A" 


1  V.4.RIETIES   TO    GrOW. 

'      The  selection    I  have    made  are 
'.  sorts    and   flower    well    in    winter. 


all   reliable 
For    con- 


breaking  off  the  top,  leaving  about  four  or  five 
joints  on  the  plant.  When  these  are  full  of  roots 
the  plants  must  be  given  their  final  shift   into 

7-inch   pots.     For  this   some  crushed   bone   and 

are  grownis  to  "afford  a  supply  of !  soot  maybe  added  to  the  soil,  and  with  good  ,  venience  of  reference  I  have  arranged  them  all 
flowers  in  the  winter  months,  it  drainage  and  firm  potting  the  plants  should  give  ,  under  colour  headings.  White  :  White  Perfee- 
follows  that  they  must  be  grown  |  a  good  account  of  themselves.  Up  to  the  end  of  |  tion,  large  and  free  ;  White  Lawson,  an  excellent 
under  glass  for  part  of  the  year  at  May  they  must  be  under  glass,  either  in  a  cold  |  variety,  its  failing  being  that  the  blooms  often 
rate.      There   is  no  doubt   that '  greenhouse  or  frame.     From  May  onwardsjihey  ,  come  with  a  blush   shade  or  pink^  streak  on  the 


any 


the  best  results  are  obtained  if  an  entire  house  j  may  be  grown  out  of  doors  much  like  Chry- 
ean  be  given  up  to  them.  Wherever  this  is  santhemums,  and  two  most  necessary  details 
possible  I  would  strongly  advise  it,  and  I  think  i  to  consider  are  the  watering,  which  must  be 
it  will  be  found  that  the  pleasure  and  utility  of  I  carefully  done,  and  the  stopping,  which  must  not 
the  resultant  bloom  will  outweigh  any  regrets  at  be  neglected  whenever  a  shoot  shows  signs  that 
giving  up  a  mixed  house,  or,  if  a 
new  one  has  to  be  built,  that  they 
will  soon  prove  the  money  to  have 
been  well  spent.  Still,  where 
neither  of  these  alternatives  is 
either  possible  or  wished  for, 
fair  results  may  be  obtained  by 
growing  them  with  other  things. 
The  following  cultural  notes  can- 
not claim  to  be  more  than  sug- 
gestive. For  details  I  would  refer 
readers  to  two  excellent  little 
booklets,  which  give  full  directions 
for  their  treatment  all  the  year 
round:  (1)  "The  Perpetual- 
flowering  Carnation,"  by  M.  C. 
All  wood  ;  (2)  "Cultivation  of  the 
Perpetual  -  flowering  Carnation," 
by  C.  H.  Taudevin.  With  these 
I  may  couple  "The  Modern  Car- 
nation," by  Hayward  Mathias, 
which  deals  in  more  or  less  detail 
with  every  section  of  the  "divine" 
flower,  including  florist's  types  and 
Malmaisons.  The  list  of  varieties 
is  primarily  intended  for  beginners, 
and  it  is  the  combined  result 
of  my  own  experience  and  my 
visit  to  Tangley  Nurseries.  The 
amateur  in  his  selection  of  varieties 
cannot  do  much  better  than  follow 
the  lead  of  large  trade  growers 
like  Mr.  Page,  who  are  bound  to 
study  the  constitution,  the  fiori- 
ferousness,  the  disease  -  resisting 
powers  and  the  midwinter  flower- 
ing properties  of  the  kinds  they 
cultivate.  Common-sense  suggests 
beginning  with  the  easiest  and 
leaving  the  more  -  difficult  -  to  - 
manage  and  the  more  delicate  till 
some  experience  has  been  gained. 

House. 
Light  and  air  are  the  bread  and 
butter  of  the  Perpetual-flowering 
Carnation  and  genial  warmth  is  its 
drink.      Sufficient  heating  power 
should    be    provided    so    that   a 
night  temperature   of  about  iS" 
(or    40°    in    very   cold    weather) 
can  be  maintained.     It  must  not 
be    forgotten    that    the    plants    are    perpetual 
flowering,  and  that  they  grow   very  tall  when 
they    are    giving     their    succession    of     bloom, 
hence   4   feet   6   inches    is    none   too    much    to 
allow   from    the    staging    to    the    eaves.      The 
ridge   of    such    a    house    may    be     10    feet    to 
12  feet   from   the   ground   level.     The   question 
of  glass  surface  and  its  relation  to  the  interior 
air  is  an  interesting  and  important  one. 

Culture. 

Beginners  will  certainly  find  it  best  to  buy 
small  plants.  Cuttings  are  best  taken  in  January 
and  February.  To  enable  them  to  root  quickly 
they  should  have  a  bottom-heat  of  8°  to  10°  above 
that  of  the  house.  Then  when  rooted  pot  them 
into  2J-inch  pots.  As  soon  as  the  roots  are 
running  round  the  sides,  move  them  into  3-inch 
or    .3.^-inch     pots,    and    then,    when    they    are 


petal.  There  is  an  Improved  White  Lawson 
which  is  said  to  come  quite  pure.  Red  :  Beacon, 
very  healthy  and  free,  exceedingly  bright  at  night ; 
Brittania,  an  excellent  flower — it  has  tender  leaves 
and  needs  greenhouse  culture  to  do  it  properly. 
Pink  :  Enchantress,  one  of  the 
best  of  all  this  type  of  Carnation, 
blush  pink ;  Melody,  delicate  pink 
(Lawson  sport)  ;  Fair  Maid,  real 
pink  (Rose  pink) ;  Winsor,  silvery 
pink;  Winona,  similar  to  Winsor, 
but  a  more  symmetrical  flower, 
very  nice  in  electric  light ;  Aristo- 
crat, beautiful  cerise  pink — now 
that  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson  appears 
to  be  deteriorating,  this  should  be 
grown  in  its  place.  Deep  crimson : 
Governor  Roosevelt,  a  large,  free, 
well-formed  flower,  not  so  liable 
to  rust  as  Harlowarden,  and  one 
that  I  always  like  the  best  when  I 
see  the  two  together.  Striped : 
.Jessica,  white  with  bright  red 
flakes,  healthy  and  strong  grower. 
Joseph  Jacob. 


COLOURED 
PLATE. 


PLATE  1365. 


NEW 


(UlMORP 

T 


WHtTB   POTTEBAKKKR  TULIPS  GROWING   ON   A  GRASSY   BANK. 


it  wants  it.    No  stopping,  however,  must  be  done 
after  the  end  of  July. 

Most  growers  advocate  cool  frame  culture  all 
the  summer,  as  then  in  very  wet  weather  they  may 
be  protected  from  too  much  rain  ;  but  this  is 
probably  impracticable  for  most  amateurs.  I 
have  had  quite  good  results  from  entire  open-air 
treatment.  At  the  end  of  August  or  very  early 
in  September  the  plants  must  be  housed,  and  if 
the  stopping  has  been  done  as  wanted,  and  two 
batches  of  cuttings  been  struck  at,  say,  a  three 
weeks'  interval,  there  should  be  a  succession  of 
flowers  all  the  winter.  The  best  soil  is  good 
maiden  loam  with  some  sharp  silver  sand,  burnt 
earth,  and  a  little  fine  old  spent  manure  if  the  loam 
is  very  stiff.  Staking  is  an  important  factor  in 
success  ;  so,  too,  is  fumigating.  Do  not  spare  the 
XL  or  whatever  you  use  ;  fumigate  immediately 
the  plants  are  \jnder  cover,  again  ten  days  later, 


BEAUTIFUL 
ANNUAL. 

(DiMORPHOTHECA    AURANTIACA.  ) 

HIS  was  introduced  to 
England  by  Messrs. 
Barr  and  Sons,  King 
Street,  Covent  Garden, 
in  1902,  through  the 
kindnessof  Mr.  Charles 
Ayres  of  Cape  Town,  who  had  it 
sent  to  him  from  Namaqualand 
as  a  species  of  Aretotis.  Seed 
was  presented  to  Kew  by  Messrs. 
Barr  and  Sons,  and  there,  when 
in  bloom,  it  was  identified  as 
Dimorphotheoa  aurantiaca,  from 
dried  specimens  in  the  Herbarium. 
The  flowers  of  this  beautiful 
annual  are  of  a  rich,  glossy, 
salmon  orange,  a  little  deeper  in 
colour  than  shown  in  the  coloured 
plate. 
Sown  in  a  gentle  warmth  in  spring  and  planted 
out  in  June,  it  produces  a  profusion  of  bloom  for 
months  in  succession.  This  Dimorphotheca  also 
makes  a  most  graceful  pot  plant  for  cool  green- 
houses or  sitting-room  windows.  Out  of  doors 
the  flowering  stems  reach  about  9  inches  in  height, 
but  in  pots  in  the  greenhouse  the  plants  grow  a 
little  taller.  Like  other  members  of  this  family, 
Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca  only  opens  its  flowers 
fully  when  exposed  to  the  sun.  Some  plants  on 
the  rockwork  at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Gardens  at  Wisley  attracted  a  great  deal  of 
attention  last  year.  There  was  room  for  such  an 
annual  as  this,  and  lovers  of  flowers  owe  their 
thanks  to  Messrs.  Barr  for  introducing  it  to 
this  country  and  who  kindly  supplied  the  flowers 
from  which  our  coloured  plate  was  prepared. 
We  cannot  have  too  many  flowers  that  may  be 
easily  raised  from  seeds. 


January  16,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


31 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


TULrPS  IN  GRASS. 

A  LARGE  clump  of  the  lovely  pure  white 
early  Tulip  White  Pottebakker 
flowering  on  a  grassy  bank  is  repre- 
sented in  the  ilfustration  on  page  .30. 
k  Everything  looks  well  planted  in 
grass,  and  Tulips  are  no  exception. 
I  have  seen  them  planted  in  two  large  gardens 
and  in  our  own  churchyard.  Unfortunately, 
from  what  I  can  gather  from  the  experience  of 
others,  and  also  from  my  own,  the  bulbs  after 
two  or  three  years  seem  to  die  out,  or,  probably, 
to  be  more  accurate,  fail  to  flower.  Frequent 
renewals  are  necessary  if  we  are  to  get  flowers 
every  spring,  and  it  then  becomes  a  question  of 
cost,  la  it  worth  spending  so  much  each  autumn 
to  ensure  a  good  display  in  April  and  May  ? 

The  (Question  of  Tulip  planting  in  grass  is  an 
important  and  interesting  one.  In  the  case  of 
Narcissi  (Daffodils)  every  variety  does  well;  but 
when  we  come  to  Tulips  we  want  a  great  deal 
more  information  than  we  have  at  present.  The 
particular  clump  in  the  illustration  looks  to  me 
as  if  it  was  its  first  year  in  the  ground — it 
would  be  most  instructive  to  have  a  photograph 
of  the  same  clump  taken  this  year  (1909)  and 
yet  another  in  1910.  The  Editor  will  be  doing 
the  Tulip-loving  world  a  good  turn  if  he  would 
try  and  arrange  for  it  to  be  done. 

We  want  some  data  to  go  upon  and  we  want 
to  try  many  varieties  before  we  can  come  to  any 
decision  about  their  suitability.  I  fancy  some 
few  Tulips  grow  in  their  wild  state  in  meadow 
land  (P.  sylvestris  certainly  does),  and  it  may  be 
that  the  wild  forms  will  be  found  to  be  the  best 
in  grass.  Sylvestris,  Pidieri,  Hageri,  kolpakow- 
skyana,  billietiana  and  mauriana  are  some  that 
I  would  suggest  for  this  purpose.  If  these 
were  given  a  trial,  as  well  as  some  of  the  early 
and  late  garden  varieties,  and  the  results 
recorded  in  the  pages  of  The  Garden,  the 
information,  I  feel  sure,  would  be  welcome  by 
many  who  are  contemplating  planting  in  this 
way.  Joseph  Jacob. 

A   RARE    VERBENA. 

(V.  Maonettii.  ) 

As  beautiful  garden  plants  the  Verbenas  are 
deservedly  popular  favourites,  either  planted  in 
the  front  portions  of  the  herbaceous  border  or 
for  growing  in  beds  by  themselves.  The  wonder- 
ful diversity  of  colour  and  profusion  of  bloom 
combine  to  place  these  plants  in  the  front  rank 
of  those  that  are  suitable  for  the  adornment  of 
any  garden.  Although  numerically  a  somewhat 
extensive  genus,  very  few  Verbena  species  are 
known  in  gardens,  among  those  sometimes  met 
with  being  V.  Aubletia  ( Ruse  Vervain),  V.  chamse- 
dryfolia,  V.  teuorioides  and  V.  venosa.  Chiefly 
from  V.  chamsedryfolia  and  V.  teucrioides  are 
derived  all  those  beautiful  forms  that  are  grown 
so  much  from  seed  annually  and  planted  out  for 
flowering  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months. 
Of  recent  years  a  very  pretty  half-hardy  annual 
(V.  erinoides)  has  become  more  plentiful  in  our 
gardens.  It  is  of  dwarf  habit,  and  produces  a 
profusion  of  flowers  varying  in  colour  from  purple 
to  pure  white. 

Quite  distinct  from  any  of  the  above-mentioned 
is  the  subject  of  this  note  and  illustration.  It  is 
a  perennial,  with  a  dwarf,  creeping  habit,  forming 
a  carpet  of  branching  stems  close  to  the  ground, 
studded  during  the  summer  and  autumn  with 
pretty  flowers.  These  are  rose-purple  in  colour 
and  have  the  lobes  of  the  corolla  bordered  with 
white,  producing  quite  a  charming  picture. 
Although  not  hardy  in  this  country,  it  may  be 
readily  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  in  the 
autumn,  and  the  plants  should  be  kept  in  a  frame 
free  from  frost.  It  flourishes  in  any  light,  sandy 
soil  in  a  sunny  position,  spreads  rapidly,  soon 
forming  a  broad  patch  of  foliage  and  flowers.     Of 


garden  origin,  V.  Maonettii  was  introduced  from 
Italy,  and  is  considered  a  variety  or  sport  of  the 
Brazilian  V.  tenera,  a  rather  tender  plant  of 
creeping  habit,  with  flowers  varying  in  colour 
from  rose-purple  to  white.  W.  Irving. 


SWEET     PEA     CHAT. 

NOTES  ON  VARIETIES.— Novelties 
now  follow  one  another  into  the 
market  with  such  rapidity  that  it 
is  well-nigh  impossible  to  keep 
abreast  of  the  times  and  exceed- 
ingly diflBcult  to  know  what  to 
grow  and  what  to  leave  out.  The  enthusiast  who 
attends  the  great  exhibitions,  such  as  those  of  the 
National  Sweet  Pea  Society  and  of  The  Garden, 
searches  assiduously  for  the  new  varieties, 
and  of  those  which  take  his  fancy  he  promptly 
makes  a  note.  This  occurs  in  the  summer, 
but  those  notes  are  inevitably  unearthed  early 
in  the  autumn  and  the  seedsmen  are  bombarded 
with  applications  for  a  thing  that  may  never  be 
seen  again  or  for  one  that  will  not  be  distributed 


salmon  pink  ;  Mrs.  Walter  Wright,  mauve ; 
Queen  Alexandra,  scarlet ;  Mrs.  Collier,  prim- 
rose ;  Agnes  Johnston,  cream,  suffused  rose  ; 
Countess  Spencer,  shell  pink  ;  and  America,  red 
striped.  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that 
these  are  all  excellent  Sweet  Peas  which  are 
entitled  to  a  place  in  all  collections,  whether 
they  aspire  to  be  termed  up-to-date  or  not. 

Twelve  Newer  Varieties. — In  this  set  only 
those  that  are  in  general  commerce  will  be  named, 
and  in  one  or  two  instances  it  will  be  seen  that  two 
names  are  associated ;  this  means  that  either  of 
the  two  may  be  chosen,  but  not  both.  Etta 
Dyke,  white  ;  The  King  or  King  Edward  Spencer, 
crimson  ;  Mrs.  Bieberstedt,  lavender  ;  Mrs. 
Andrew  Ireland  or  Apple  Blossom  Spencer, 
bicolor  ;  Evelyn  Hemus  or  Mrs.  C.  W.  Bread- 
more,  piootee  edged ;  Helen  Lewis,  orange ;  Lord 
Nelson,  blue,  smooth  standard  ;  John  Ingman  or 
George  Herbert,  carmine-rose  ;  Clara  Curtis, 
primrose  ;  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes,  blush  ;  Mrs. 
Henry  Bell  or  Constance  Oliver,  cream,  suffused 
rose  ;  and  Chrissie  Unwin,  rosy  cerise,  smooth 
standard,  beautiful  colour.  I  think  that  Countess 
Spencer,  or  one  of  those  which  closely  resemble 


:^-v^- 


-'**yM'f*:i/' 


«►    ■^■ 


VERBENA  MAONETTII  IN  THE  ROYAL  GARDENS,  KEW. 


for  one  or  two  years,  simply  because  the  stock  of 
seeds  is  limited.  Excellent  examples  of  this 
have  been  furnished  this  season  in  Nancy 
Perkins,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  Sweet  Peas 
that  has  ever  been  shown,  and  George  Stark,  the 
superb  scarlet  Spencer.  Every  seller  of  Sweet 
Peas  has  had  endless  letters  asking  for  these 
varieties  ;  but,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  few,  if  any, 
have  succeeded  in  procuring  a  supply.  And  in 
this  craze  for  novelties  there  is  a  danger  that 
some  of  the  splendid  old  sorts  will  too  soon  drop 
out  of  cultivation.  I  purpose,  therefore,  to 
devote  my  first  selection  to  standard  varieties 
which,  although  old  and  comparatively  cheap, 
have  yet  decided  claims  upon  the  grower  either 
for  their  distinctness  or  floriferousness,  or  both. 

Twelve  Standard  Varieties. — It  should  be 
noted  that  the  majority  of  these  have  either 
smooth  or  hooded  standards,  whereas,  in  any 
other  selection  which  will  follow,  the  waved 
standard  varieties  will  easily  preponderate. 
Well,  here  is  a  good  set :  Dorothy  Eckford, 
white ;  King  Edward  VII. ,  crimson  ;  Lady 
Grizel  Hamilton,  lavender ;  Jeannie  Gordon, 
bicolor  ;  Dainty,  piootee  edged  ;   Miss  Willmott, 


it,  such  as  Paradise  or  Enchantress,  should  be 
included,  even  though  it  makes  the  baker's  dozen. 

These  lists  are  exceedingly  brief,  and,  as  a  con- 
sequence, several  excellent  varieties  are  omitted, 
although  they  are  fully  entitled  to  representation 
in  collections  of  eighteen  or  more.  Among  these 
may  be  noted  St.  George,  for  the  richness  of  its 
orange ;  Hannah  Dale,  maroon,  smooth  standard ; 
Audrey  Crier,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all 
the  Spencers,  but  not  yet  absolutely  reliable  ; 
Elsie  Herbert,  white,  pink  edge  ;  Frank  Dolby, 
lavender  and  rose  ;  Nora  Unwin,  white  ;  Prince 
Olaf,  blue  flake ;  Helen  Pierce,  blue  marbled  ; 
and  Rosy  Adams  or  The  Marquis,  rosy  mauve. 

As  has  been  said,  all  those  named  are  readily 
procurable  through  any  reliable  house.  My  next 
notes  will  be  devoted  to  the  consideration  of  the 
novelties  of  the  season,  some  of  which  may  be, 
and  probably  are,  difficult  to  procure.  I  have 
not  dealt  with  these  on  the  present  occasion,  for 
the  simple  reason  that  I  assume  readers  of  The 
Garden  to  be  of  the  class  which  requires  known 
excellence  rather  than  that  which  seeks  for  the 
novelties  because  they  are  novelties  and  for  no 
other  reason,  Spencer, 


32 


THE     GARDEN. 


[January  16, 1909. 


QARDENI NG      FOR      'BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FRUIT  GARDEN  AND  ORCHARD.— 
All  planting  that  remains  to  be  done 
must  be  attended  to  at  once,  pro- 
viding the  weather  is  not  frosty  or 
the  soil  too  sodden.  Extra  care  will 
be  needed  when  planting  at  this 
season,  and  good  holes  must  be  taken  out  so 
that  the  roots  can  be   spread  out   to  their  full 


I. — GROWTHS   OF  THE    PRIVET   FROM    Willi;}! 
CUTTINGS  CAN   BE  MADE. 

length  in  a  horizontal  manner.  Any  that  are 
bruised  should  be  cut  clein  into  sound  wood 
before  planting,  as  such  a  wound  will  heal  much 
better  than  a  jagged  one.  Where  standard  or 
half-standard  trees  are  being  planted,  these  will 
need  staking  at  once,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
fix  the  stake  in  position  before  planting  the  tree, 
then  injury  to  the  roots  is  avoided.  The  tree 
can  easily  be  planted  up  to  the  stake.  In  tying, 
place  some  soft  material  between  the  stake  and 
the  stem,  so  as  to  prevent  chafing,  and  leave  the 
tie  loose  enough  to  allow  for  future  growth. 
The  pruning  and  nailing  of  wall  trees  should  be 
completed  without  delay.  Should  the  weather 
prove  very  severe.  Fig  trees  will  need  some  pro- 
tection in  cold  localities,  a  mat  or  even  branches 
of  evergreens  hung  in  front  of  them  usually 
sufficing. 

Greenhouse. — Primulas  and  Cinerarias  will 
now  be  swelling  their  flower-buds,  and  will 
much  appreciate  a  little  weak  liquid  manure. 
Once  a  week  will  be  often  enough  to  apply  this. 
Clay's  Fertilizer  used  at  the  rate  of  half  an 
ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water  makes  an  excellent 
and  safe  stimulant.  Cyclamens,  too,  where  they 
are  now  throwing  up  flower-buds  will  appreciate 
this  manure  water.  Fuchsias  and  Roses  trained 
to  the  rafters  should  be  pruned  and  cleaned  at 
once  if  the  work  has  not  already  been  done.  In 
the  case  of  Fuchsias  the  lateral  growths  are 
usually  spurred  back  to  within  a  few  buds  of  the 
main  rods,  unless  any  are  required  for  extension, 
when  about  two-thirds  of  their  entire  length  may 
be  retained.  Roses  will  not  need  pruning  so 
hard,  unless  extra  large  flowers  are  required. 
The  side-growths  should  be  shortened  baok  into 


firm  wood,  and  thin,  weakly  growths  entirely  re- 
moved. Where  strong,  young  rods  were  pushed 
up  from  the  base  last  summer,  these  should  be 
retained  nearly  their  whole  length,  removing  the 
worst  of  the  old  branches  to  make  room  for  them. 

Vef^etahle  Garden. — Probably  the  outdoor  con- 
ditions will  be  such  as  to  render  work  in  the 
open  impossible,  but  there  will  be  plenty  of 
preparatory  work  to  be  done  inside.  Potatoes 
for  planting  should  be  placed  on  end  so  that  the 
thickest  end  is  uppermost,  using  shallow  trays 
for  the  purpose,  so  that  the  layers  are  of  single 
thickness  only.  These  must  then  be  stood  in  a 
light,  co)l,  yet  frost-proof  place,  so  that  sprout- 
ing will  take  place  under  comparatively  hardy 
conditions.  Tubers  treated  thus  will,  at  planting 
time,  possess  stout  greeu  shoots  from  1  inch  to 
2  inches  long,  and  will  give  much  better  results 
than  those  not  sprouted  in  this  way. 

FloHier  Garden. — A  few  Sweet  Peas  may  now  be 
sown  in  pots  where  very  early  flowers  are  required, 
ilthough  the  general  sowing  under  glass  should  be 
leferred  for  a  fortnight.  Use  pots  5  inches  in 
liameter  and  place  four  or  five  seeds  at  equal 
distdnees  in  each.  Drainage  must  be  good,  and 
soil  composed  of  two  parts  good  loam,  one  part 
leaf-mould  or  thoroughly  decayed  manure,  and 
one  part  sand  will  answer  well  for  the  purpose. 
After  sowing  give  a  watering  and  stand  the  pots 
in  a  cold  frame  near  the  glass,  as  the  seedlings 
must  be  grown  as  hardy  as  possible.  Some 
growers  sow  one  seed  in  a  2.\-inch  pot,  but  pots 
of  this  size  are  not  deep  enough  for  the  roots  of 
the  seedlings.  During  open  weather  lawns  and 
walks  will  be  very  considerably  benefited  by 
frequent  rollings,  but  on  no  account  must  the 
lawns  be  touched  while  frost  is  in  the  soil,  else 
much  injury  will  be  done  to  the  gra^s.  Where 
new  turf  is  required,  this  must  be  placed 
in  position  without  delay  ;  if  left  later  it  is 
sure  to  suffer  in  the  hot  weather  of  the  coming 
summer.  H. 


INCREASING    THE    PRIVET. 

The  suburbs  of  the  great  Metropolis  are  largely 
planted  with  this  hardy  shrub,  and  the  monotony 
of  terraced  houses  is  not  seldom  made  even  more 
monotonous  by  the  exclusive  use  of  the  Privet 
for  dividing  the  garden  of  one  house  from  that  of 
another.  Growers,  however,  must  make  up  their 
minds  when  planting  this  subject  that  they  will 
never  be  able  to  grow  flowers  satisfactorily  im- 
mediately contiguous  thereto.  For  making  a 
neat  and  evergreen  hedge  it  is  one  of  the  hardiest 
and  simplest  of  plants  to  deal  with.  We  would 
rather  see  a  hedge  of  Privet  at  any  time  than  the 
commonplace  and  often  hideous  railings  that 
serve  the  purpose  of  dividing  the  gardens  of  many 
suburban  residences.  The  Privet  has  the  advan- 
tage of  growing  quickly,  so  that  its  ample  growths 
quickly  cover  up  unsightly  fences  and  give  the 
surroundings  a  neat  and  green  appearance. 

The  botanical  name  for  Privet  is  Ligustrum, 
and  of  this  there  are  several  varieties.  The 
common  Privet  is  a  British  shrub  and  is  much 
used  for  hedges  ;  it  is  known  under  the  name  of 
L.  vulgare.  There  are  several  species  and  also 
several  varieties  of  the  latter.  The  most  attrac- 
tive of  the  whole  of  the  Privets  is  the  Golden 
Privet  (L.  ovalifolium  foliis  aureis).  At  all 
times  this  is  a  most  ornamental  plant,  and  it 
retains  its  golden  variegated  foliage  during  the 
whole  of  the  winter.  Wo  have  seen  isolated 
specimens  in  certain  well-known  gardens  where 
they  have  indeed  been  "  a  thing  of  beauty,"  and 
large  beds  in  which  this  subject  is  grouped  make 
a  beai;tiful  effect  in  the  landscape,     This  Golden 


Privet  is  also  now  coming  into  more  general  use 
for  hedges,  and  promises,  in  some  measure,  to 
supersede  the  old  Oval-leaved  Privet  (L.  ovali- 
folium) in  this  respect. 

There  are  several  ways  of  increasing  this 
subject,  and  it  is  one  of  the  easiest  of  the  hardy 
shrubs  to  propagate,  this  usually  being  carried  out 
in  the  summer  and  autumn.  When  propagated 
by  cuttings  in  the  summer  it  is  usual  to  select  a 
shady  quarter  of  the  garden  for  the  purpose,  and 
here  the  cuttings,  after  being  properly  prepared, 
invariably  root  readily  enough.  Autumn  propa- 
gation is  more  generally  practised,  however.  At 
this  period  there  is  generally  an  abundant  supply 
of  ideal  growths  from  which  the  cuttings  can  be 
made.  The  cuttings  must  be  of  firm  growth  and 
be  from  8  inches  to  1  foot  in  length.  It  is  quite 
an  easy  matter  to  procure  from  the  old  plants 
numerous  shoots  of  this  kind.  Fig.  1  aptly  serves 
to  illustrate  the  kind  of  growths  suitable  for 
propagation  at  the  period  above  mentioned. 

For  autumn  propigition  outdoors,  a  period 
covered  by  September  to  November  may  be 
regarded  as  perfectly  satisfactory  ;  but  we  should 
have  no  hesitation  in  inserting  cuttings  at  the 
present  time  when  the  weather  is  open  and  free 
from  frosts.  The  quarters  in  which  the  cuttings 
are  to  be  planted  should  be  properly  dug  over  and 
broken  up.  Good  sandy  loam  will  serve  the 
purpose  of  propagation  quite  well.  There  may 
be  instances  where  the  demands  of  growers  may 
be  small,  in  which  case  large  pots,  deep  boxes 
or  even  a  cold  frame  may  be  utilised  at  this 
season  to  raise  a  small  batch  of  plants  in  speedy 
fashion. 

Having  determined  the  kind  of  shoots  that 
should   be  selected,  we  will  next  consider   how 


2. — THE    SAME   (JROWTUS   AS   SHOWN    IN    FIG.     I 
PREPAREn    READY    FOR    INSERTION. 

they  are  to  be  prepared.  The  shoots  depicted 
in  Fig.  2  give  a  very  clear  idea  how  this  is 
proceeded  with.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  lower 
leaves  have  been  removed.  This  has  laid  bare 
the  joints,  which  are  seen  at  intervals  throughout 
the  length  of  the  stems.  To  make  a  cutting 
the  stem  should  be  cut  through  immediately 
below  a  joint,  as  it  is  from  this  latter  that  the 
roots  tkre  enjitted-     Some  ti  inches,  more  or  less, 


January  16,  1909.] 


THE     GAKDEN. 


33 


3. — PRIVET  CUTTINGS  INSERTED  IN  A  POT  9  INCHES 
IN  DIAMETER.  A  USEFUL  METHOD  FOR 
SMALL  GROWERS. 

of  each  cutting  should  be  inserted  in  the  pre- 
pared soil,  and  this  made  absolutely  firm  at  the 
base  of  each  cutting  also.  This  treatment  of 
the  cuttings  is  imperative,  otherwise  there  is 
considerable  risk  of  their  failing  to  root 
satisfactorily. 

For  the  purpose  of  helping  small  growers,  we 
have  shown  how  cuttings  of  Privet  should  be 
inserted  in  large  pots.  Twelve  to  fifteen  large 
cuttings  cin  be  quite  easily  accommodated  in  a 
pot  9  inches  in  diameter,  and  if,  when  inserting 
them,  the  propagator  begins  on  one  side  of  the 
pots  and  works  consistently  from  one  side  to  the 
other,  the  pots  may  be  filled  with  ease  and  the 
last  cutting  inserted  without  inconvenience.  A 
aeries  of  such  pots  may  be  filled  at  this  period, 
and,  if  they  are  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  rooting  process  should  not 
proceed  apace.  Those  who  have  a  cold  frame,  or 
who  can  make  up  any  rough  structure  to  answer 
the  same  purpose,  may  raise  a  good  batch  of  plants 
therein  during  the  winter  months.  Sheltered 
quarters  outdoors  at  this  somewhat  protracted 
period  are  equally  advantageous. 

The  illustration  Fig.  4  reveals  a  section  of  two 
rows  of  Privet  cuttings  in  the  open,  inserted 
in  open  weather  in  December.  In  outdoor  pro- 
pagation we  usually  allow  about  1  foot  between 
the  rows,  but  the  cuttings  may  be  inserted 
6  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 


WALKS   AND  THEIR   UPKEEP. 

A  GARDEN  without  0,  Certain  number  of  walks  is 
like  an  uncharted  ocean  ;  we  should  be  lost  in  it, 
and  many  of  its  beautiful  contents  would  remain 
undiscovered  by  the  casual  visitor.  Good  and 
useful  as  walks  are,  however,  they  are  often 
abused  and  constructed  without  any  thought  as 
to  their  future  uses.  How  often  does  one  see  a 
tiny,  snake-like  walk  in  a  small  garden  where  a 
gently  curving  or  straight  one  would  be  infinitely 
better  ?  In  laying  out  a  garden  we  must  first  of 
all  fix  on  the  principal  points  and  then  construct 
our  walks  so  that  they  will  lead  to  the  most 
important  feature.  The  craze  for  serpentine-like 
curves  is  at  present  almost  unbearable,  the  walks 
winding  about  in  an  aimless  fashion.  Generally 
speaking,  a  bold  curve  is  much  better  than  many 
turns,  and  even  then  the  walk  should  be  so  laid 
out  as  to  bring  one,  on  turning  a  curve,  face  to 
face  with  some  beautiful  object,  such  as  a  fine 
tree,  group  of  shrubs,  or  even  a  bed  filled  with 
beautiful  flowers. 

In  large  establishments  a  long,  perfectly 
straight  walk,  opening  up  some  beautiful  scenery 
in  the  distance,  is  often  most  elfeotive.  Such  a 
walk  will  usually  be  flanked  by  flower-beds  or 
groups  of  beautiful  shrubs.     For  kitchen  gardens 


straight  walks  are  usually  best.  The  width  of 
walks  will,  of  course,  vary  with  the  size  of 
the  garden.  Generally  speaking,  the  principal 
ones  should  be  from  3  feet  6  inches  to  4  feet 
6  inches  wide,  carriage-drives  being  made 
according  to  the  traifie  that  they  are  desired  to 
accommodate. 

For  general  appearance  and  utility  there  is 
nothing  to  beat  a  good  gravel  walk,  and  where 
gravel  of  a  binding  and  bright  character  can  be 
obtained  it  should  always  be  used.  In  making  a 
gravel  walk  take  out  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  1  foot, 
then  place  a  4-ineh  to  6-ineh  thick  layer  of  rough 
bricks  in  the  bottom,  and  over  this  the  roughest 
of  the  gravel,  finishing  off  with  a  2-inch  or  3-inch 
thick  coating  of  fine  gravel  or  screenings,  raking 
the  whole  down  so  that  it  slopes  gently  from  the 
centre  of  the  walk  to  the  edges.  This  will  need 
plenty  of  rolling  when  in  a  moist  condition,  so  as 
to  solidify  the  whole  mass.  During  the  summer 
a  good  rolling  should  always  be  given  as  soon  as 
possible  after  rain,  as  this  will  go  a  long  way 
towards  keeping  the  surface  in  good  condition. 
A  clean  and  bright  appearance  is  secured  during 
the  summer  by  giving  the  surface  of  the  gravel  a 
light  dressing  with  old  cookie  shells  ;  these  soon 
break  down  and  remain  clean  for  a  long  time. 

Next  in  general  utility  to  the  gravel  walk  is 
that  made  with  flagstones,  and  if  these  are  laid 
so  that  small  spaces  remain  between  them  many 
tiny  alpine  plants  will  thrive  therein.  The 
initial  cost  of  such  a  walk  is  rather  heavy,  but 
the  upkeep  will  be  correspondingly  low.  Walks 
are  occasionally  made  with  asphalt  or  a  mixture 
of  tar,  small  gravel  and  ashes ;  but,  although 
durable,  their  appearance  is  scarcely  in  keeping 
with  the  occupants  of  the  garden. 

Grass  walks  are  a  feature  in  all  well-regulated 
gardens,  and  if  time  can  be  given  to  their  upkeep 
during  the  summer  months  nothing  is  more 
delightful.  It  frequently  happens  that  Rose  and 
other  flower-beds  are  situated  in  grass,  and  a 
grass  walk  leading  to  them  is  most  pleasing.  It 
is  impossible  to  lay  down  hard-and-fast  rules  as 
to  which  kind  of  walk  shall  be  adopted  ;  all  have 
their  advantages,  and  the  owner  of  a  garden 
must,  of  course,  use  his  or  her  discretion  in  the 
matter.  Gravel  walks  used  at  one  time  to  be  a 
great  nuisance  to  keep  free  from  weeds  and  moss, 
but  since  the  advent  of  several  excellent,  but 
poisonous,  weed-killers  this  trouble  is  done  away 
with.  It  is  advisable  to  apply  them  through  a 
rosed  watering-can  directly  after  a  shower  and 
when  bright  weather  is  anticipated.  Failing 
such  an  opportunity  the  walks  should  be  well 
watered  an  hour  or  two  previous  to  applying  the 
weed-killer.  Of  course,  any  substance  that  will 
kill  weeds  will  also  destroy  other  plants,  and  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  apply  them  close  to  Box  or 
other  live  edgings. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


-CUTTINGS   INSERTED   IN    ROWS 
APART   IN  THE   OPEN. 


Frosts. — About  the  middle  of  January  severe 
frosts  are  generally  experienced.  At  such  times 
it  is  not  wise  to  cut  back  shrubs  or  trees,  nor  to 
wheel  barrows  across  lawns  nor  roll  the  latter. 
When  frozen,  the  grass  blades  are  stiff  and  the 
pressure  of  the  feet  or  any  weighty  implement 
breaks  and  bruises  them,  so  that  after  the  thaw 
dark  lines  or  patches  show  on  the  lawn.  Neither 
is  it  advisable  to  disturb  the  roots  or  foliage  of 
any  border  plants  while  frost  prevails,  but  heaps 
of  soil  and  manure  may  be  turned  over.  The 
frost  will  then  kill  insects  which  are  exposed 
and  sweeten  and  pulverise  the  soil. 

Climbing  Roses. — Many  town  gardens  are  of 
small  proportions,  and  it  very  often  happens  that 
the  owners  of  these  small  gardens  are  great  lovers 
of  flowers  and  especially  Roses.  A  single  bed  of 
Roses  may  take  up  a  considerable  space  of  the 
enclosure  ;  but  there  are  other  ways  of  growing 
these  favourite  plants,  namely,  on  posts,  arbours, 
trellises  and  walls,  and  even  half-a-dozen  pillars 
clothed  with  Roses  form  a  most  attractive 
feature  in  the  small  garden,  and,  moreover,  they 
do  not  appear  to  take  up  much  ground  either. 
In  order  to  be  successful  with  climbing  Roses, 
one  must  be  able  to  see  in  one's  mind's  eye  the 
June  efl"eet.  If  one  can  do  this,  then  there  will 
not  be  any  mistake  in  the  placing  of  the  pillars 
and  the  planting  of  the  Roses.  Do  not  depend 
upon  the  ordinary  soil  of  the  garden,  but  either 
entirely  replace  it  or,  at  least,  mix  some  good 
fibrous  loam  with  it.  If  one  barrowful  of  old 
soil  is  removed,  replace  it  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  good  new  loam  for  each  plant  ;  the  latter  will 
soon  become  established  and  give  satisfaction. 
The  Roses  must  not  be  planted  during  frosty 
weather.  Of  course,  one  may  try  certain  varie- 
ties which  are  particularly  liked,  but  it  is  wiser 
to  plant  strong  growers  which  bloom  freely,  too. 
The  following  are  a  few  which  are  suitable : 
Bouquet  d'Or,  Alister  Stella  Gray,  Crimson 
Rambler,  Blush  Rambler,  Celine  Forestier,  Lady 
Gay,  Dorothy  Perkins,  Hiawatha  and  Gloire  de 
Dijon. 

Pruning  Shrubs. — It  is  well  worth  while  to 
devote  some  time  to  the  work  of  pruning  shrubs. 
The  form  and  general  appearance  of  the  speci- 
mens depend,  to  a  great  extent,  upon  the  manner 
in  which  the  pruning  is  done.  Pruning-scissors 
may  be  used,  but  not  shears.  The  strong 
pruning-knife  is  the  best  tool  for  the  smaller 
branches,  of  all  shrubs.  Its  use  compels  one  to 
deal  with  the  branches  separately,  and  so  the 
more  surely  ensures  good  work  being  the  result. 
If  the  large  leaves  of  Laurels  and  other  kinds  of 
shrubs  are  cut  in  twain  the  bushes  are  really 
spoiled.  This  happens  when  shears  are  em- 
ployed, but  not  when  a  knife  is  used.  Do  not 
make  the  bushes  too  formal  in  outline,  but 
simply  cut  away  straggling  shoots,  so  that  each 
specimen  will  stand  distinct  from  its  neighbour. 
The  point  of  cutting  should  be  out  of  sight,  that 
is,  rather  inside  the  leaves  not  cut,  and  not  on  a 
level  with  the  latter  unless  it  is  desirable  to 
largely  extend  and  thicken  the  growth  on  a 
particular  part  of  the  bush.  The  new  shoots 
will  come  out  past  the  old  leaves  in  a  natural 
way. 

Soil  for  Shrubs. — Where  it  is  intended  to 
plant  such  shrubs  as  Rhododendrons,  Azaleas, 
Andromeda floribunda,  Clethra  arborea,  Kalmias, 
Pernettyas  and  Zenobias,  some  nice  sweet  peat 
should  be  obtained  first  and,  along  with  half- 
decayed  leaf-soil,  mixed  with  the  original  garden 
loam.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  to  grow  these 
kinds  of  plants  without  due  preparation  of  the 
border,  and  if  it  is  not  possible  to  so  treat  a 
large  border  this  season,  a  small  one  or  a  portion 
of  a  large  one  may  be  dealt  with.  The  soil 
added  should  be  made  up  as  follows  :  Peat,  two 
parts ;  fibrous  loam,  one  part ;  leaf-soil,  one 
part.  Sandy  peat  is  the  best,  and  it  should  be 
broken  up  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  hen's 
egg.  Avon. 


34 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[January  16,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOE    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 

VINES  started  last  month  will  now  be 
on  the  move.  Keep  the  night 
temperature  at  55°  to  60°,  with  a 
rise  of  10"  during  the  day  with  sun. 
If  the  houses  are  low-pitched,  a  little 
air  on  all  favourable  occasions  should 
be  admitted.  This,  however,  must  be  done  with 
great  care  and  judgment,  avoiding  a  cutting 
draught.  Damp  all  paths  and  borders,  especially 
near  the  pipes,  with  tepid  water  and  keep  a 
sweet,  humid  atmosphere.  When  the  young 
shoots  have  grown  sufficiently  long  they  should 
be  carefully  and  gradually  tied  to  the  wires, 
but  do  not  bend  them  too  much  at  one  time. 
Examine  the  borders  at  intervals,  and,  if  the 
roots  are  found  to  need  water,  this  should  be 
given  in  a  tepid  state  and  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  moisten  the  whole  of  the  borders. 

Viiie  Eyes. — These  may  now  be  inserted  singly 
in  small  pots  filled  with  sandy  loam.  The  pots 
should  be  clean,  dry  and  moderately  drained,  and 
the  soil  pressed  rather  firm.  The  eyes  are  best 
taken  from  medium-sized  wood  and  well  matured. 
Leave  half  an  inch  of  wood  above  and  below 
each  bud  when  preparing  them  and  press  them 
into  the  soil,  leaving  the  buds  just  above  the 
surface.  In  a  few  days  the  pots  may  be  plunged 
in  a  bottom -heat  of  70°  to  75°.  Do  not  over- 
water  for  some  time. 

Peaches. — As  these  come  into  bloom  keep  the 
atmosphere  a  little  drier  and  the  night  tempera- 
ture at  55°.  Give  a  little  fresh  air  both  night 
and  day,  and  let  the  day  temperature  rise  to  60° 
and  65°  with  sun.  Tap  the  trellises  two  or  three 
times  daily  to  distribute  the  pollen,  and  if  there 
is  a  doubt  about  the  blooms  setting,  go  over 
them  with  a  rabbit's  tail  or  camel-hair  brush. 

Melons. — Sow  seeds  of  some  of  the  best  sorts. 
I  usually  sow  the  seeds  in  3-inch  pots,  the  soil 
being  warm,  sandy  loam,  pressed  firmly.  Do  not 
over-water ;  if  the  soil  is  fairly  moist  no  water 
will  be  required  till  the  seeds  begin  to  germinate. 
Stand  the  pots  on  a  bottom-heat  of  75°,  and  as 
a  make-shift  the  pots  may  be  plunged  in  leaves 
in  suitable  boxes  and  stood  over  the  pipes,  with  a 
sheet  of  glass  placed  over  the  box.  The  leaves 
should  be  kept  moist. 

Salabs  and  Vegetables. 
Grtcumbers. — Sow  seeds  of  these,  using  a  rather 
lighter  soil.  One  seed  in  a  S-inch  pot  will  be 
enough  if  the  seeds  are  good  ;  if  doubtful,  put 
two  in  and  remove  the  weaker  plant  should  both 
seeds  germinate. 

French  Beans. — These  will  now  force  more 
readily  and  should  be  sown  in  batches  of  fifty. 
Put  five  or  six  Beans  in  each  pot,  using  sweet 
loam  and  leaf- mould.  One  of  the  best  for  forcing 
is  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  although  there  are  others 
which  may  prove  equally  satisfactory. 
Plants  Under  Glass. 
Caladmms.  — A  few  of  these  may  now  be  potted 
and  placed  in  a  suitable  temperature.  Equal 
parts  of  loam  and  rough  peat,  with  plenty  of 
sand,  will  suit  the  more  delicate  varieties,  and  a 
compost  made  more  rich  for  the  larger  and  more 
robust  sorts.  All  the  tubers  at  rest  should  be 
examined  to  ascertain  if  they  are  sound. 

Pot  Roses. — These  require  a  thorough  look 
over  before  bringing  them  into  heat.  The 
drainage  should  be  put  right  and  worms  removed 
if  such  have  entered  the  pots.  When  pruning, 
cut  to  good  plump  eyes  and  the  weaker  growths 
more  closely  than  the  strong  ones. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Baniet. 


FOR    THE   NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Forcing  Department. 
Potatoes. — Tubers  that  were  placed  in  a  warm, 
light  position  some  time  ago  will  now  be 
sufficiently  sprouted  for  planting.  For  very 
early  supplies  large  pots  are  convenient,  and  as 
many  of  these,  until  lately  occupied  with 
Chrysanthemums,  are  at  hand,  cleansing  the 
insides  from  any  soil  adhering  thereon  will  again 
fit  them  for  use.  After  being  efficiently  drained, 
these  may  then  be  filled  to  about  half  their  depth 
with  good  soil.  If  new  loam  is  used,  manure  of 
any  kind  is  unnecessary,  but  should  the  former 
be  of  retentive  character,  sand,  lime  rubble  or 
burnt  ash  may  be  used  as  a  corrective.  Placed 
in  warmth,  as  that  prevailing  in  a  vinery 
recently  started,  the  temperature  of  the  soil 
quickly  corresponds  with  that  of  the  house,  and 
the  tubers  may  then  be  inserted  by  merely 
pressing  them  into  the  loose  surface,  leaving 
when  finished  the  upper  portion  and  sprout 
visible.  Pots  12  inches  or  more  in  diameter  will 
accommodate  three  tubers  each,  placing  these  in 
a  triangle  and  near  the  side.  If  much  smaller 
pots  are  used,  one  tuber  in  each  will  be  ample. 
The  usual  course  of  damping  the  house  for  the 
benefit  of  the  other  inmates  will  provide 
sufficient  moisture  for  the  Potatoes  until  foliage 
is  formed,  and  then  water  of  the  same  tempera- 
ture as  the  house  only  must  be  given.  For 
succession  a  pit  or  frame  should  be  prepared  and 
planted,  the  heating  medium  being  hot  water  or 
fermenting  materials  ;  if  the  latter,  sufficient  in 
bulk  and  so  well  prepared  by  frequent  turning 
that  a  steady,  lasting  heat  may  be  relied  on.  In 
this  case  the  sets  may  be  placed,  as  already 
described,  in  shallow  drills  formed  in  the  soil  at 
about  15  inches  apart,  with  9  inches  between  the 
sets  in  the  rows. 

Carrots,  Turnips  and  Radishes. — These  are  all 
much  appreciated  early  in  the  season,  and  their 
culture  is  not  difficult  if  a  few  frames  are  avail- 
able. Where  leaves  of  forest  trees  have  been 
collected  and  made  into  a  large  heap  a  gentle 
heat  will  before  now  have  generated.  Upon  this 
heap  the  frames  may  be  placed  and  be  partly 
filled  with  leaves  or  litter,  according  to  their 
depth,  making  all  firm  by  treading  before  putting 
on  the  soil.  A  mixture  of  about  equal  parts  of 
loam  and  leaf-soil  is  suitable  for  the  purpose. 
At  this  season  seeds  should  be  sown  moderately 
thick  in  view  of  possible  slow  germination  and 
attacks  upon  the  young  plants  by  various  pests. 
Turnips  and  Radishes  may  well  be  sown  in  the 
same  frame,  using  a  separate  one  for  Carrots  ; 
the  prudence  of  this  arrangement  will  be  obvious 
later  on  when  air  has  perforce  to  be  admitted  to 
the  former  crops. 

Green  Saladinq. 

Lettuces. — A  frame  prepared  in  every  way 
similar  to  the  foregoing  may  now  be  planted  with 
autumn-sown  Lettuce  plants,  placing  these  about 
6  inches  apart.  The  sashes  may  with  advantage 
be  kept  closed  for  a  few  days ;  afterwards  a  little 
air  at  the  apex  at  all  times  will  tend  to  prevent 
injury  from  damp,  as  well  as  undue  attenuation. 

Endiiv.  —  Lifted  when  dry  and  carefully 
examined  for  slugs,  a  number  of  plants  may  be 
placed  in  boxes  in  any  dark  position,  while  the 
remainder  should  now  be  covered  by  frames  or 
even  spare  sashes,  mats  being  used  to  effect  the 
blanching  process  according  to  requirements. 

Mustard  and  Cress  are  best  sown  at  frequent 
intervals  and  advanced  in  moderate  heat,  thus 
securing  a  greater  amount  of  leaf  with  less  stem 
than  is  often  the  case  when  high  temperatures 
are  employed. 

Chicory  still  in  the  open  should  be  raised,  and, 
after  selecting  sufficient  roots  for  immediate 
forcing,  the  remainder  may  be  laid  in  soil  or 
ashes  convenient  for  future  use. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Oalloway  House,  Garlieston,  iViylownahire. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAf^  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  2vko  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  lohat  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  tnake  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  cohimn.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  ivritten  on  one.  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THE 
Garden,  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  btisiiiess  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  m  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 
Michaelmas  Daisies  (L.  B.  Withes).— 

The  following  are  among  the  best  of  these  at 
present  in  commerce  :  Acris,  blue,  2  feet,  early  ; 
Amellus  major,  blue,  2i  feet,  early  ;  cordifolius 
albus,  c.  elegans  and  c.  major,  white,  mauve 
and  lilac  respectively,  4^  feet ;  difFasus  horizon- 
talis,  rose,  3  feet ;  Itevis,  mauve  blue,  3  feet ; 
Novfe-Angliff  Lil  Fardel,  rose  ;  N.-A.  pulcher, 
purple ;  N.  -A.  Mrs.  S.  T.  Wright,  rose  purple, 
4  feet ;  l.T?vigatus,  rose  lilac,  2  feet,  early  ; 
Novi-Belgii  Arcturus,  fine  blue,  4  feet;  N.-B. 
densus,  2J  feet,  clear  blue  ;  and  N.  -B.  Finohley 
White,  3  feet.  The  above  embrace  early,  mid- 
season  and  late  varieties.  You  will  find  the 
hardy  species  of  Polypodium  well  suited  to  your 
purpose,  and  in  particular  the  varieties  of 
Polypodium  vulgare,  also  P.  calcareum  and  P. 
Dryopteris.  Other  suitable  kinds  are  AUosorus 
crispus,  Polystichum  lonchites,  Lastrea  montana 
and  Athyriums  in  variety. 

Propagating  Verbenas  (Fios).—li 
you  can  keep  your  old  plants  of  Verbenas, 
which  you  have  lifted  from  the  open  ground 
and  got  into  pots  free  from  damp,  just  growing 
during  the  winter,  they  will  in  gentle  warmth 
in  March  push  young  shoots,  and  these  will, 
when  an  inch  or  so  in  length,  make  capital 
cuttings.  If  you  lack  warmth,  your  old  plants 
may  damp  off  and  die.  To  induce  cuttings  to 
root  quickly  in  the  spring,  have  a  good  warmth — 
that  is,  from  65°  to  75°  of  heat,  whether  in  a  small 
frame,  in  a  greenhouse  or  in  a  frame  on  a  hot- 
bed— shallow  pans  well  drained,  then  filled 
with  a  compost  of  one  half  soil,  the  other  of 
sharp  white  sand,  into  which  the  little  cuttings 
may  be  thickly  dibbled.  In  making  these  do  not 
cut  close  to  the  leaf-joint,  but  half  an  inch 
below,  as  the  roots  break  out  from  close  beneath 
the  leaf-joint.  Failing  cuttings,  get  Verbena 
seed,  which  you  can  in  several  distinct  colours 
or  in  mixed  packets.  Seedlings  give  very 
beautiful  effects  during  the  summer. 

Bxtendlngr  a  lawm  and  bopdep  {Beginner).— 
If  we  understand  your  sketch  rightly,  there  is  but  one  way 
to  extend  the  lawn,  and  that  is  by  taking  the  path  at  E 
into  the  lawn,  and,  if  need  be,  abolishing  the  cross 
path  at  that  point  altogether.  If,  however,  a  path  at  that 
end  is  a  necessity,  it  could  be  formed  out  of  the  existing 
bolder,  which  you  say  is  too  wide.  We  do  not  see  how 
you  can  split  up  the  border  to  be  effective,  unless  you 
make  of  it  a  set  of  smaller  beds  or  borders.  It  would  be 
an  easier  matter,  we  think,  to  reduce  its  width,  as  above 
suggested,  and  finally  to  plant  it  with  showy  plants  of 
the  perennial  class.  If,  however,  you  wish  for  summer 
bedding  things,  a  set  of  smaller  beds  would  be  more 
serviceable. 

Capnatlon  magrgot  (Carnntiiin).—Tt>e  maggot 
that  attacks  the  Carnation  is  the  grub  of  a  two-winged  Hy 
about  the  size  of  a  house  fly.  It  lays  its  eggs  in  the 
aut'imn  generally  at  or  near  the  base  of  the  leaves  of  the 
plant,  and  the  grub,  which  soon  hatches  out,  eats  its  way 
down  the  leaf  into  the  stem  of  the  Carnation,  where  it 
burrows  and  often  brings  about  the  death  of  the  plant. 
The  grub  goes  down  into  the  earth  to  turn  into  a  pupa,  and 
it  is  therefore  unwise  to  have  Carnations  on  the  same  spot 
as  they  were  growing  when  attacked  by  the  lly,  since  the 
plants  will  be  at  hand  for  the  fly  to  lay  her  eggs  upon  as 
soon  as  she  appears  the  next  season.  The  usual  plan  is 
to  keep  a  watch  on  the  plants,  and  then  to  pick  out  the 
grubs  as  soon  as  they  are  seeu  in  the  plants  or  the  layers 


January  16,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


35 


with  a  needle.  If  the  flies  are  seen  liovering  about  or 
over  the  plants,  the  latter  might  be  sprayed  perhaps  with 
paraffin  emulsion,  which  might  deter  the  tli  s  from  laying 
their  eggs,  but  it  is  rather  doubtful  whether  this  method 
would  be  really  serviceable,  as  the  time  over  which  the  flies 
appear  is  rather  lengthy. 

Capnations  going  wrong  (B.  Ryan).— The 
Carnations  are  attacked  by  red  spider.  Fumigate  with  one 
otthe  excellent  preparations  now  on  the  market,  and 
repeat  the  fumigation  about  three  days  after  so  as  to  catch 
the  mites  when  they  have  hatched  from  the  very  numerous 
eggs  and  before  they  have  an  opportunity  of  laying  eggs  in 
their  *urn. 

Capnation  leaves  diseased  (.Miss  i.).— The 
Carnation  leaves  are  attacked  by  the  fungus  named 
Heterosporium  echinulatum.  All  the  diseased  leaves 
should  be  picked  off  and  the  plants  sprayed  with  potassium 
sulphide  dissolved  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to  three  gallons  of 
water.  The  plants  should  have  their  foliage  kept  as  dry  as 
possible  and  be  grown  in  a  well-ventilated  house. 

Tpeatment  of  old  Chpysanthemums  (C.  C). 
The  old  stools  of  Chrysanthemums  will  keep  well  in  the 
cold  frame  provided  it  is  thoroughly  protected  with  mats 
in  the  event  of  severe  frost.  The  cuttings  will  root  better 
iu  a  cold  frame  than  in  a  cold  greenhouse,  as  the  frame 
can  be  kept  closer  after  the  cuttings  are  put  in  than  if  they 
are  put  in  a  greenhouse.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary 
to  have  heat  for  the  cuttings,  though  a  little  is  helpful, 
especially  in  cold,  damp  weather. 

Hyacinth  bulbs  going  wrong  (A.  Heard).— 
Your  Hyacinth  bulbs  are  very  badly  infested  by  the  bulb 
mite  (Khizoglyphus  Echinopus).  I  could  not  find  any 
weevils  or  other  insects  in  the  bulbs.  If  you  would  send 
up  one  or  more  of  the  weevils,  I  should  be  glad  to  tell  you 
what  I  can  about  them.  Any  bulbs  in  the  condition  of 
those  you  sent  should  be  burnt  at  once  ;  those  which  are 
only  slightly  injured  should  be  soaked  in  water  of  a 
temperature  of  110"  or  115"  Fahr.  tor  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  ;  this  should  kill  any  mites  which  were  near  the 
surface.— G.  S.  S. 


Propagating  Clematis  (A.  S.).— Yon  can  pro- 
pagate the  large-flowering  Clematises  by  grafting  or  by 
cuttings.  If  the  former  method  is  to  be  adopted,  stock 
plants  are  placed  in  a  warm  house  and  started  into 
growth  in  January  ;  the  young  shoots  are  then  grafted  on 
to  pieces  of  root  of  the  common  Clematis  (C.  Vitalba). 
These  pieces  of  root,  after  grafting,  may  be  potted  singly 
into  2i-inch  pots,  or  they  may  be  laid  in  rows  in  Cocoanut 
fibre  iii  a  warm  propagating  case.  Under  either  condition 
they  must  be  kept  warm  and  close  until  the  scion  and 
stock  unite  until  root-fibres  are  formed.  Cuttings  of 
semi-ripe  shoots  may  be  made  in  July  and  August  and  be 
inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil  placed  in  a  warm  propaga- 
ting case.  When  roots  are  formed  the  cuttings  should  be 
transferred  to  the  house  and  potted  up  singly. 


arrange  it  that  the  heat  does  not  decliue  while  the  weather 
is  still  cold,  otherwise  you  may  lose  many  of  your  newly- 
struck  plants.  Air,  whenever  possible,  is  very  beneficial 
to  Geraniums.  The  white  Alyssum  will  flower  the  same 
year  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  February  in  a  gentle  heat  under 
glass  and  the  seedlings  pricked  off  into  shallow  boxes 
or  pans  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to  handle  con- 
veniently. As  the  season  advances  they  must,  of  course, 
be  gradually  hardened  oflt. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Ppunini:     Clematis     Jackmanii 

{G.  Olive). — Your  vaiietiesof  Clematis  Jaekmanii 
should  be  out  back  each  year  to  within  two  or 
three  eyes  of  the  base  of  last  year's  wood.  This 
may  be  done  in  February  or  early  in  March,  just 
before  growth  commences.  If  you  wish  your 
plants  to  cover  a  fair  amount  of  space,  keep  a 
watch  on  the  young  growths  and  do  not  let  them 
become  entangled  one  with  the  other,  for  if  you 
once  allow  them  to  twist  their  leaf  stalks  together 
it  will  be  next  to  impossible  to  separate  them 
without  breaking  the  soft  shoots.  By  keeping 
the  branches  separate  and  nailing  them  in  position 
occasionally  a  large  space  may  be  covered  by 
one  plant. 

Shrubs  for  wide  border  facing 
norttl  (iV.  O.  Hadden). — The  following  sub- 
jects will  do  for  the  border  you  mention.  Lilacs 
in  variety,  Ribes  sanguineum,  R.  aureum, 
Spirasa  arguta,  S.  canescens,  S.  Aitchisonii, 
Cytisus  scoparius  andreanus,  C.  albus,  C.  prsecox, 
Laurustinus,  Viburnum  Opulus  sterile,  V. 
plioatum,  Weigelas  in  variety,  Philadelphus 
eoronarias,  P.  grandiflorus,  P.  Lemoinei,  Berberis 
Btenophylla,  B.  Darwinii,  Caragana  arborescens, 
Liguatrum  lucidum,  Pyrus  floribunda.  Laburnums 
in  variety,  double-flowered  Cherries,  Almond, 
Spartium  junceum  and  Cotoneasters  in  variety. 
For  your  bulb  border  you  had  better  remove  the 
Fig  tree,  drain  the  border  well  and  fill  up  with 
IJ  feet  of  soil.  If,  as  you  say,  it  is  heavy  md 
rich,  mix  sand  with  the  soil  while  you  are 
trenching. 

Peat    llttep    and     peat -loving    shpubs 

{Penwan-&i.— It  is  not  a  good  plan  to  spread  peat  litter 
from  a  stable  over  the  ground  where  peat-loving  shrubs 
are  growing.  A  thin  layer  may  do  no  harm,  but  a  thick 
layer  certainly  will  not  do  good.  The  best  use  to  put  this 
litter  to  is  a  top-dressing  for  grass  ;  a  little  of  it  dug  into 
ground  does  no  harm,  but  it  is  not  good  material  to  use 
in  quantity.  The  best  top-dressing  you  can  get  for  your 
Rhododendrons  is  decayed  leaves.  These  always  keep 
sweet  and  encourage  surface  roots ;  they  also  prevent  the 
border  from  drying  rapidly  in  hot  weather. 

Propagating  Euonymus  (S.  C.  Griffiths).— 
Cuttings  of  evergreen  Euonymuses  should  be  taken 
during  July  and  August  to  ensure  the  best  results, 
though  a  certain  percentage  can  be  got  to  root  if 
put  iu  much  later.  Select  pieces  of  the  current  year's 
shoots  atiout  i  inches  long,  cut  them  to  joints  and 
insert  them  in  a  bed  of  sandy  soil  in  a  close,  cold  frame, 
or  in  pots  on  a  bed  of  Cocoanut  fibre  in  a  warm  propa- 
gating case.  The  latter  is  the  most  expeditious  method 
of  obtaining  rooted  cuttings,  but  they  succeed  very  well 
under  either  condition.  When  rooted,  harden  off  and 
transfer  to  a  border  out  of  doors. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 
Treatment    of    Beaumontla 

grandiflora  {A.  J.  W.,  Basinystoke). — This 
is,  as  a  rule,  not  a  success  if  grown  in  pots,  but 
it  should,  if  possible,  be  planted  in  a  well-drained 
border  in  a  soil  composed  of  two  parts  loam  to 
one  part  of  peat  and  somewhat  less  sand.  It  is 
naturally  a  vigorous-growing  plant  of  a  twining 
nature,  and  on  this  account  should  be  trained  to 
rafters  or  wires  near  the  glass.  The  temperature 
of  an  intermediate  house  is  most  suited  to  its 
requirements,  and  in  order  to  flower  it  in  a 
satisfactory  manner  it  should  have  all  the  light 
and  sunshine  possible.  The  flowers  are  produced 
on  the  previous  year's  growths,  hence,  as  soon  as 
they  have  dropped,  the  plant  should  be  pruned 
back  rather  hard  in  order  to  induce  plenty  of 
lateral  shoots  for  the  next  season's  display. 

Treatment  of  Carnations  under 

glass  {M.  G.,  Cheshire,). — You  tell  us  nothing 
of  the  treatment  given  to  your  Carnations,  but 
apparently  they  have  been  kept  far  too  warm 
and  crowded  together.  At  all  events,  the  plants 
sent  are  in  a  terrible  plight,  and  perhaps  the  best 
course  would  be  to  burn  them  all.  They  are 
swarming  with  red  spider,  and  in  some  instances 
badly  afifected  with  rust.  Besides  this  they  are 
very  tall  and  weak.  The  only  thing  we  can 
suggest  in  order  to  give  them  a  chance  of  recovery 
is  to  out  them  down  to  a  height  of  about  3  inches, 
pick  off'  any  of  the  remaining  leaves  that  show 
signs  of  rust,  and  carefully  sponge  every  leaf  on 
both  surfaces  with  a  lather  of  soft  soap  and 
water.  Some  will  die,  but  others  may  recover 
and  push  out  good,  healthy  shoots.  Plenty  of 
light  and  air  is  very  essential  to  successful 
Carnation  culture,  and  a  night  temperature  of 
45°  will  be  quite  sufficient  for  them. 

Cinerarias  going  wrong  (Mrs.  G., 

Leeds).  —  An  exceedingly  difficult  matter  to 
advise  upon,  for  your  letter,  explicit  though  it 
be,  does  not  contain  anything  in  the  nature  of  a 
clue.  We  do  not  think  that  the  few  tiny  worms 
have  anything  to  do  with  the  matter,  but  some 
cause  far  more  sweeping  must  be  searched  for. 
As  you  say  there  was  no  frost  at  the  time,  this 
probable  reason  may  be  passed  over.  Had  the 
plants  been  fumigated  ?  If  so,  this  is  very  liable 
to  cause  a  shrivelling  of  the  leaves,  for  the 
Cineraria  is  easily  affected  in  this  way.  Another 
suggestion  is  that  there  may  have  been  some 
deleterious  substance  in  the  water.  It  may  have 
found  its  way  therein  quite  innocently  ;  that  is 
to  say,  water  collected  from  a  freshly-painted 
roof  or  one  covered  with  newly  galvanised  iron 
might  be  expected  to  injure  the  plants.  Water, 
too,  that  has  been  stored  in  a  newly-cemented 
tank  is  more  or  less  dangerous  to  use.  Lastly, 
and  this  is  very  important,  is  it  possible  for  any 
of  the  sulphurous  fumes  from  the  stokehole  to 
find  their  way  into  the  house  ?  If  so,  the  trouble 
may  be  thus  accounted  for,  as  sulphur  is  so 
injurious  to  plant-life.  A  very  tiny  crack  will 
often  allow  enough  of  these  fumes  to  pass  to  do 
much  damage. 

Stplklng  Oepanlums  In  spplng  (&.  0.).— It 
will  certainly  be  an  advantage  to  make  up  a  hot-bed  in 
the  spring  in  order  to  strike  Geraniums  ;  but,  at  the  same 
time,  it  is  not  so  much  assistance  to  these  plants  as  to 
many  others.  The  reason  of  this  is  to  a  great  extent  owing 
to  the  Jact  that  Geraniums  do  not  require  much  atmo- 
spheric moisture,  and  this  occurs  more  in  a  made-up  hot- 
bed than  in  a  glass  structure  heated  by  hot-water  pipes. 
In  making  up  your  hot-bed  it  will  be  very  necessary  to  so 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Pillar  Rose  for  northern  aspect 

{Heather). — Both  Dorothy  Perkins  and  Blush 
Rambler  would  succeed  well  in  a  north  position. 
You  will,  of  course,  open  out  a  good  large  hole 
for  the  Rose,  as  either  sort  will  develop  into  a 
fine  specimen  if  care  be  taken  in  the  planting. 
Felioiti5  Perpetue  and  Bennett's  Seedling  would 
be  two  beautiful  white  varieties  should  you  prefer 
a  white.  Crimson  Rambler  is  rather  too  tender 
to  be  planted  in  a  very  exposed  position. 

Planting  Roses  {SatisJied).—OuT  notes 
are  written  by  various  experts,  and  it  is  quite 
natural  to  expect  a  diff'erence  of  opinion.  We 
think  you  have  done  right  in  replanting  those 
that  were  too  deeply  planted.  We  much  prefer 
to  keep  the  fine  roots  as  near  the  surface  as  is 
consistent  with  safety,  for  then  they  are  brought 
under  the  more  direct  influence  of  sun  and  air, 
which  are  such  great  factors  in  successful  cultiva- 
tion. Moulding  or  earthing  up  the  Tea  Roses  as 
a  protection  against  hard  frosts  is  sound  practice 
and  is  adopted  now  by  most  growers.  This  soil 
is  levelled  down  when  all  danger  from  frost  has 
gone.  We  thank  you  for  your  kind  remarks 
regarding  The  Garden. 

Roses    for    massing   {W.   B.).—The 

aspect  of  north-east  is  not  at  all  a  good  one  for 
such  a  Rose  as  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria, 
especially  as  you  say  the  position  is  a  very  damp 
one.  You  would  be  more  successful  with  such 
varieties  as  Mme.  Pernet-Ducher,  Prince  de 
Bulgarie  or  Peace.  As  to  mixing  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals  with  the  Hybrid  Teas  in  order  to  obtain 
earlier  blooms,  we  advise  you  to  give  up 
this  idea.  In  the  first  place,  the  Hybrid  Teas 
would  bloom  equally  as  early,  and  in  most  cases 
earlier  than  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  and  the 
latter  would  greatly  detract  from  the  beauty  of 
the  beds  in  the  autumn.  Should  you  still  desire 
to  do  this,  Mrs.  John  Laing  would  go  well  with 
Caroline  Testout,  and  as  suitable  blendings  for 
Lady  Battersea  and  Mme.  Jules  Grolez  we  would 
suggest  Dupuy  Jamain  and  Suzanne  M.  Rodo- 
canachi  respectively. 

Perpetual-flowering  white  Roses 

(D.  Morris). — One  of  the  most  fragrant,  as  it  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful,  Roses  is  the  white 
La  France,  known  under  the  name  of  Augustine 
Guinoisseau.  With  us  it  has  been  flowering  all 
the  summer,  and  even  on  November  7  the  plants 
were  covered  with  bloom.  It  is  not  really 
white,  the  colour  being  a  faint  blush  pink,  but 
in  effect  it  is  white.  Another  serviceable  old 
Rose  is  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaisou,  and  Admiral 
Dewey,  a  blush  white  form  of  Caroline  Testout, 
is  also  first-rate.  You  do  not  appear  to  possess 
Frau  Karl  Drusohki.  It  is  true  it  is  not  fra- 
grant, but  the  purity  of  its  handsome  buds  and 
blooms  make  it  almost  indispensable  to  every 
garden.  Two  or  three  other  good  sorts  to  add 
to  your  collection  are  Pharisasr,  Earl  of  Warwick, 
Joseph  Hill,  Gustave  Grunerwald,  Hugh  Dickson,' 
Mme.  Ravary  and  Richmond,  and  moat  of  them 
are  fragrant.  Moss  Roses  are  rather  given  to 
attract  aphis,  but  otherwise  they  are  not  troubled 
with  insect  pests  more  than  other  Roses.  Prune 
them  well,  then  cut  away  the  eggs  which  the 
moths  lay  on  the  growths.  The  plant  you  send 
is  Euonymus  europteus. 

Roses  fop  subupban  gapden  (F.  A.  C.  S.).— 
You  have  certainly  begun  well  iu  preparing  the  beds  as 
you  have  done  and  you  siiould  be  successful.  The  selection 
you  have  made  is  on  the  whole  a  good  one.  The  standards 
could  not  be  improved  upon,  but  instead  of  Homer  and 
Abel  Carri^re  as  bushes  we  should  recommend  Pharisaer 
and  General  MacArthur.  If  you  intend  planting  the 
Crimson  Rambler  on  an  arch  it  would  do  all  i  ight,  but  do 


36 


THE     GARDEN. 


[Januaky  1G,  1909. 


not  attempt  to  grow  this  Rose  on  a  wall.  Should  you 
desire  a  good  crimson  Rose  for  a  wall,  plant  Fran<^ois 
Crousse  or  Ards  Pillar. 

Rose  fOP  naming*  (Mrs.  Z-.).— The  Rose  is  certainly 
not  filme.  Abel  Chatenay.  We  believe  it  to  be  a  Tea-scented 
variety  named  Friquet  or  Hybrid  Tea  Ma  Tulipe.  but  it  is 
rather  ditticult  to  say  for  certain,  as  Roses  are  very  much 
out  of  character  in  the  winter. 

Rose  fop  south  wall  (C  P.,  Kent/or>h.—A  fine 
Rose  for  such  a  wall  would  be  Dr.  Rouges.  Other  good 
sorts  are  Climbing  Caroline  Testout,  Climbing  Kaiserin 
Augusta  Victoria,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  or  Franvois 
Crousse.  Good  hardy  sorts  for  an  east  border  would  be 
Caroline  Testout,  Fran  Karl  Druschki,  Hugh  Dickson, 
Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Ulrich  Brunner,  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire, 
ilrs.  Paul,  La  France  de  '89,  Augustine  Guinoisseau,  Grace 
Darling,  Charles  Lefebvre,  Clio,  Ella  Gordon,  Mrs.  John 
Latng,  Zepheriu  Drouhin,  Cheshunt  Hybrid,  Johanna 
Sebus  and  Phariaaer. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Apples  spotted  {F.  J.  -S.).— The  Apples 
are  attacked  by  the  fungus  named  Fusioladium 
dendritioum,  and  the  scabby  spots  have  been 
attacked  further  by  fungi  that  carry  the  decay 
into  the  tissues  of  the  fruit.  All  the  dead  shoots 
and  branches  should  be  pruned  out  of  the  trees, 
and  just  before  the  blossoms  open  they  should  be 
sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mixture  at  half  the 
strength  used  in  spraying  Potatoes,  and  again 
after  the  petals  have  dropped. 

Muscat  Grapes  shPiveUing:  ( Wood- 
lands).— We  can  only  suggest  that  the  shrivelling 
and  decayed  appearance  of  your  Muscat  Grapes 
has  been  caused  by  the  temperature  of  the  vinery 
being  too  low  and  damp  since  the  Grapes  have 
been  ripe,  and  also  possibly  the  border  too  wet. 
We  have  frequently  seen  similar  results  from 
these  causes.  The  Alicante,  on  the  other  hand, 
being  a  much  hardier  Grape  and  one  that  suc- 
ceeds in  a  lower  temperature,  would  take  no 
harm  under  these  conditions. 

Treatment  of  a  Vine  (C  C.).— The 

Vine  should  be  lifted  very  carefully  and  potted 
without  delay.  As  ithaa  been  standing  some  years 
in  the  same  situation  it  is  sure  to  feel  the  cheek 
of  removal  very  much.  A  pot  about  1  foot  in 
diameter  will  be  necessary  and  the  soil  must  be 
of  a  good  loamy  nature.  After  such  drastic 
treatment  you  cannot  expect  the  Vine  to  fruit 
next  year,  so  immediately  after  potting  it  should 
be  cut  down  to  within  a  couple  of  eyes  of  the 
base  and  the  most  promising  shoot  therefrom 
must  be  grown  on  for  another  year.  When 
growing  freely  manure  water  occasionally  is  of 
great  assistance. 

Vines  going  back  (Fruit  Trees).— 
Perhaps  you  have  overcropped  them.  Vines 
will  not  stand  this  for  long.  The  best  thing 
you  can  do  (and  the  sooner  you  do  it  now  the 
better)  is  to  fork  carefully  and  carry  away  the 
surface  soil  of  the  border  until  you  come  in 
contact  with  a  good  body  of  roots,  and  then  give 
the  border  a  (i-inch  thick  dressing  of  the  best 
turfy  loam  you  can  command,  pressing  it  down 
hard.  Before  applying  it  add  to  each  barrowful 
of  loam  one  peck  of  old  mortar  rubble  and  a 
gallon  of  wood  ashes.  In  the  spring  you  will 
find  that  new  roots  will  soon  take  hold  of  this 
soil.  To  feed  these  roots  during  summer  apply 
a  top-dressing  of  well-rotted  manure  4  inches 
deep  to  the  surface  of  the  border  at  the  beginning 
of  May,  and  give  occisional  waterings  during 
summer.  Repeat  this  treatment  every  year  and 
you  will  never  fail  to  grow  Grapes  of  the  best 
quality. 

Cordon  Pear  trees  {Fruit  Trees).— 
They  should  be  planted  20  inches  apart  and 
trained  obliquely  so  as  to  give  a  greater  length 
of  stem  to  the  tree.  All  the  strongest  shoots — 
the  growth  of  last  year — should  be  pruned  back 
to  within  two  buds  of  their  base  and  the  weaker 
shoots  to  one  bud  only.  The  terminal  shoot 
must  be  shortened  by  one-third  its  length. 
Summer  pruning  :  At  the  end  of  July  the  side 
shoots  of  the  summer's  growth  should  be  out 
back  to  within  six  leaves  of  their  base,  but  not 
the  terminal  shoot.     This  should  be  left  intact. 


Early  in  May  mulch  the  surface  of  the  soil  with 
rotten  manure  4  inches  deep  as  far  as  the  roots 
of  the  tree  extend,  give  occasional  waterings 
with  manure  water  and  you  will  no  doubt 
succeed  in  growing  Pears  of  the  best  quality. 

Figrs  splitting  (//.  J/n/s/i(!(0.— Had  you  coutinued 
the  slight  heat  and  warmer  air  provided  for  the  Peach 
trees  while  bearing  fruit,  the  Figs  would  have  ripened  all 
right  without  splitting.  It  was  the  cooler  and  damper 
atmosphere  to  which  they  were  subjected  that  caused  the 
splitting.    The  variety  is  Brown  Turkey. 

Black  Cuppant  shoots  fop  examination 
(Fethnrd).— The  shoots  that  you  send  are  badly  infested 
by  the  big-bud  mite,  which  does  a  considerable  amount  of 
damage.  Pick  off  and  burn  all  the  swollen  buds  ;  then  in  the 
spring,  say  from  the  end  of  March  to  the  middle  of  May, 
dust  the  bushes  at  fortnightly  intervals  with  a  mixture 
of  fresh  air-slaked  lime  and  flowers  of  sulphur,  lib.  of  the 
former  to  21b.  of  the  latter. 

Cheppy  tpee  root  swollen  (E.  M.  £.).— The 
cankerous  spots  and  swellings  on  the  roots  of  the  Cherry 
may  have  been  caused  by  any  one  of  several  things,  but  it 
is  too  late  to  say  from  the  specimen  received  what  the 
exact  cause  in  this  particular  instance  was.  In  any  case 
it  had  its  origin  in  a  wound  which  the  plaut  has 
endeavoured  to  heal,  with  the  result  that  swellings  of  a 
considerable  size  have  been  produced. 

Apple  shoots  blighted  (P.  J.).— The  mildew  on 
the  .\pple  shoots  is  American  blight  or  woolly  aphis,  an 
insect  that  does  a  very  consideraVile  amount  of  harm  to 
fruit  trees  by  sucking  the  sap  of  the  branches  and  causing 
the  production  of  woxmds  that,  through  the  constant 
irritation,  are  not  able  to  heal.  Not  only  does  this  itself 
harm  the  tree,  but  it  allows  the  access  of  various  fungi, 
which  are  able  to  attack  the  tree  and  cause  harm  them- 
selves. A  vigorous  syringing  with  a  caustic  wash  or, 
where  possible,  scrubbing  is  the  best  treatment  for  the 
winter ;  but  when  the  leaves  are  on  the  trees  this  is 
impossilile  and  it  is  best  to  spray  forcibly  with  paraffin 
emulsion. 

Gpapes  shanking:  in  vinepy  -whepe 
plants  ape  grown  yW.  /).).— The  bunch  of  Grapes 
sent  for  inspection  had  fallen  to  pieces  before  it  reached 
our  office,  the  berries  being  over-ripe  and  smashed  up  in 
carriage,  so  that  we  could  not  distinguish  one  berry  from 
another,  neither  could  we  find  out  the  nature  of  the  spots 
you  mention  from  the  decayed  condition  of  the  berries.  If 
you  can  send  us  a  bunch  less  over-ripe  we  may  be  better 
able  to  help  you.  It  is  quite  possible  to  grow  fairly  good 
Grapes  in  a  vinery  which  is  also  used  for  the  growth  of 
plants,  but  not  high-class  or  exhibition  Grapes,  of  course. 
\Ve  think  that  the  cause  of  your  Grapes  shanking  is  to  be 
found  in  overcropping  and  keeping  the  atmosphere  of  the 
vinery  too  close  and  moist  while  the  Grapes  were  ripening 
and  after  they  were  ripe.  You  were  wrong  in  syringing 
the  Grapes  at  all.  They  should  never  be  syringed  after 
the  berries  are  set. 

Keeping  Gpapes  in  bottles  of  vratev  in 
^vintep  (C.  5.  J.). — The  object  of  doing  this  is  to  relieve 
the  Vine  of  the  strain  of  sustaining  the  crop  of  fruit  at  a 
season  of  the  year  when  it  should  be  at  complete  rest 
preparatory  to  producing  a  heavy  crop  the  following  year. 
The  important  point  to  secure  in  this  matter,  after  the 
Grape-stems  have  been  cut  and  placed  in  bottles  of  water, 
is  to  find  out  the  place  or  position  in  which  will  be  found 
the  best  conditions  for  preserving  the  Grapes  for  the 
longest  time.  Various  positions  have  been  tried.  We 
remember  some  years  ago  the  practice  was  common 
of  hanging  the  bottles  in  the  vinery  to  make  it  appear  as 
thoug;h  the  bunches  were  still  growing  on  the  Vines.  This 
practice  is  now  quite  obsolete,  as  it  was  fouud  that  too 
much  light  aud  too  frequent  change  of  temperature 
proved  most  inimical  to  the  quality  and  long  keeping  of 
the  Grapes.  The  best  way  is  to  place  them  in  a  dark, 
comparatively  dry  room  where  the  temperature  will  range 
day  and  night  between  45°  and  52°  Fahr. 

Fpuits  on  clay  soil  (F.  «.).— The  list  of  fruits 
sent  is  a  very  good  one,  but  in  Apples  you  have  but  one 
cooking  variety.  Prince  Albert.  We  should  add  to  that  one, 
for  earlier  use,  Stirling  Castle.  Pear  Doyenne  du  Cornice 
fruits  best  on  a  wall.  It  is  not  a  free  bearer  as  a  rule, 
but  of  course  the  fruits  are  of  delicious  quality.  Still, 
you  would  probably  find  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey  better  for 
your  purpose.  Jefferson  is  a  high-class  dessert  Plum  and 
is  best  on  a  wall,  but  it  will  do  well  as  a  pyramid  or  half- 
standard  on  warm  soils.  The  other  Plums  are  good  for 
cooking.  Kentish  Bigarreau  is  a  good  Cherry,  but  the 
tree  when  in  fruit  must  be  netted  over  to  protect  from 
birds.  We  have  not  heard  of  Victoria  Regina  Ked  Currant. 
You  had  better  have  Raby  Castle.  Of  Gooseberries  get  for 
green  berries  Keepsake  and  Lancashire  Lad,  and  for 
flavour  Langley  Beauty  and  Whitesmith.  The  other 
things  will  do  well.  Plant  rather  shallow  and  elevated  or 
on  mounds  on  clay  soil  so  as  to  keep  the  roots  near  the 
surface,  feeding  them  with  top-dressings  of  manure,  gritty 
soil  such  as  street  sweepings,  or  well-decayed  garden 
refuse. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Celeriac  with  brown  mapkingrs 

{Miss  W.  G.  B.). — The  Celeriac  has  been  attacked 
by  the  Celery  stem  fly,  which  has  tunnelled  into 
the  swollen  part  of  the  stem  and  left  a  brown 
trail  wherever  it  has  gone,  the  decay  having 
entered  sometimes  a  considerable  distance  into 


the  tissues.  The  insects  pupate  in  the  soil,  and 
this  should  be  dug  so  as  to  deeply  bury  the  top 
layer.  If  the  attack  has  been  severe,  the  crop 
should  be  grown  as  far  as  possible  away  from  its 
present  site  next  year. 

Celery  diseased  (F.  W.  C.).— The  decayed  tissues 
of  the  Celery  are  teeming  with  bacteria,  aud  it  is  probably 
these  that  have  continued  the  work  begun  by  some  agency 
that  caused  the  death  of  the  young  leaves  in  the  central 
part  of  the  plant.  The  trouble  usually  appears  to  follow 
upon  water  finding  its  way.downintotheheart  of  the  plant. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Grubs  fastened  to  woodnropk  iL.  A.  ./.).— 

The  gruljs  which  you  found  fastened  to  the  woodwork 
of  your  greenhouse  are  the  chrysalides  of  the  common 
large  white  butterrty  (Pieris  brassicje).  The  caterpillars 
had,  no  doubt,  been  feeding  on  some  plants  close  by. 
Each  chrysalis  that  you  kill  will  diminish  the  number  of 
butterflies  next  year,  and  therefore  there  should  be  fewer 
caterpillars.— G.  S.  S. 

Tpans planting*  Bracken  (A.  W.  Jiai/doii).— 
You  will  find  the  Bracken  a  by  no  means  easy  subject  to 
deal  with,  and  "sods"  which  not  infrequently  do  not 
contain  the  growing  point  of  the  rhizome  or  rootstock,  are 
by  no  means  the  best.  At  the  present  time  the  growing 
point  is  traceable  by  reason  of  the  old  fronds,  and  such 
roots  may  be  dug  up  and  carefully  replanted  at  once. 
Frequently  the  old  roots,  if  laid  in  a  heap  of  leaf-soil,  will 
start  to  grow  quite  freely,  and  such  as  will  rtadily  trans- 
plant. You  know,  of  course,  that  in  certain  instauofs  the 
plant  roots  very  deeply,  and  that  such  roots  are  very 
susceptible  to  injury.   Ling  may  be  planted  now  or  in  April. 

Daisies  on  lawn  {M.  A.  P.)— What  is  commonly 
advertised  as  Watson's  Lawn  Sand  is  that  most  commonly 
used  to  sprinkle  rather  thickly  over  lawns  to  destroy 
broad-leaved  weeds  such  as  Daisies  ;  but,  none  the  less, 
if  too  freely  used,  burns  the  grass  also  for  a  time.  Still, 
because  it  seems  to  contain  sulphate  of  ammonia,  it 
becomes  later  a  manure,  and  where  grass  is  not  destroyed 
leads  to  improved  growth.  But  we  advise,  all  the  same, 
pulling  out  the  Daisies  with  old  steel  forks,  then  top- 
dressing  the  bare  places  with  fine  soil,  and  in  April  next 
sowing  proper  lawn  grass  seed,  well  rolling  it  in.  If  you 
could  face  the  expense  of  having  all  the  worst  Daisy  patches 
on  your  lawn  lifted,  each  turf  of  3  feet  long  and  1  foot 
wide  being  laid  out  on  a  table,  the  work  of  extracting  the 
Daisies  would  be  easy  and  etficient.  Then  have  the  turves 
relaid.  But  certainly,  whichever  course  you  take,  top- 
dress  with  tine  soil  and  sow  seed  as  advised. 

Hedgre  for  wind-screen  (ir.  H.  «.).— The 
Hornbeam  would  certainly  be  one  of  the  best  subjects  you 
could  use  to  form  the  hedge  referred  to.  It  is  of  fairly 
quick  growth,  can  be  trimmed  to  any  reasonable  extent, 
and  forms  a  dense  hedge  or  screen.  You  should  be  able  to 
obtain  good  sturdy  plants  5  feet  to  6  feet  high  from  a 
nursery,  and  if  they  are  carefully  planted  they  will  become 
established  the  lirst  season.  It  is  very  necessary  that  the 
plants  chosen  have  been  transplanted  regularly,  as  they 
can  then  be  moved  without  risk.  The  planting  may  be 
carried  out  now  in  open  weather.  The  distance  apart  at 
which  the  plants  are  put  will  depend  upon  their  size,  but 
for  good  established  specimens  18  inches  will  he  very 
suitable.  An  even  more  decided  wind-break  may  be  formed 
if  the  Hornbeams  are  planted  in  two  rows,  anglewise, 
thus  :  *^*:i.*+*  As  yours  is  such  a  draughty  spot,  perhaps 
this  last-named  method  will  be  the  best. 

Information  about  a  fountain  (.1.  Mason).^ 
The  best  use  to  be  made  of  the  water  supply  would  be  to 
form  a  cement  basin  as  a  receiver  for  the  water,  the 
margin  of  the  basin  to  be  so  constructed  that  rockery 
plants  could  be  inserted  therein  to  trail  over  and  furnish 
the  sides.  In  the  water  aquatic  plants,  such  as  Nymphseas 
and  Sagittarias,  could  be  grown,  which  at  flowering 
time  would  be  most  effective.  A  few  gold-flsh  would  add 
a  further  charm  to  the  water.  The  water  depth  should  not 
be  less  than  20  inches.  The  upright  supply  pipe  could 
have  fixed  to  it  at  its  extreme  point  a  reducing  jet 
with  tap,  a  rose  spray  with  fine  holes,  or  a  circular  pipe 
with  perforations  could  be  fixed.  The  upright  stem  of  the 
pipe  could  be  hidden  with  a  rockery  arrangement  of  tufa, 
and  a  small  receiving  basin  for  the  water  tlxed  at  3  feet  or 
4  feet  high,  the  water  overflowing  and  tumbling  into  the 
lower  basin  in  turn.  All  you  would  require  would  be  an 
overflow  pipe  for  the  latter,  and  with  the  water  under 
control  not  much  waste  would  be  experienced. 

Various  questions  (A.  B.  C).— (l)  Escallonia 
rubra.  (2)  Ficus  stipulata  (F.  repens).  (3)  Ixora  flori- 
bunda.  The  Isoras  are  stove  flowering  plants  and  grow 
well  in  a  compont  of  peat,  leaf-soil  and  sand.  It  is  advis- 
able to  cover  the  vinery  border  outside  with  light  litter 
during  the  winter,  especially  if  the  Vines  are  started 
early.  The  Crotons  should  be  kept  til!  spring  and  then 
cut  back.  When  the  young  shoots  are  large  enough  they 
may  be  taken  off  and  rooted  in  a  close,  moist  case  in  the 
stove.  IE  there  are  any  tops  on  the  plants  now,  they 
might  be  taken  off  as  cuttings  and  rooted  in  the  same 
way.  The  best  time  to  propagate  Arabis  is  to  split  up  old 
flowering  plants  directly  after  they  have  finished  bloom- 
ing. The  small  pieces  should  be  planted  out  in  nursery 
ground,  and  will  make  nice  plants  by  the  autumn  ready 
for  putting  out  in  the  beds.  Cuttings  may  also  be  struck 
any  time  during  the  summer.  Allamaudas  are  easily 
propagated  by  means  of  cuttings,  which  will  root  at  any 
time  of  the  year  in  a  bottom-heat  of  from  1\)°  to  80"^.  The 
usual  time,  however,  is  in  spring.  Use  a  compost  of  sand, 
peat  aud  leaf-soil. 


GARDEN. 


-y^- 


t^-^^ ^- 


No    1940.    Vol.  LXXIII. 


January   23,  1909, 


CONTBNTS. 


A   Wild    Garden    op 

Shkdbs 37 

Our  wayside  trees  . .     . .    37 
Notes  of  the  Week      38 
corbebpoitdeiioe 
The    forthcoming 

Garden  Show      ..    39 
Triteleia   uniflora    in 

the  greenhouse      . .     39 
Snowdrops   for   table 

decoration       ..     ..    39 
Snapdragons       ..     ..    39 
Perpetual  or  American 
Carnations       . .     . .     39 
Fbcit  Garden 
Apples     growing     at 

Highgate 40 

Fruit  notes 40 

EiTOHEN  Garden 
Some  good  vegetables 
and   salads  from 
seeds  . .     . .  . .     40 

Broad  Beans  and  their 
culture      41 

R08E  GARDEN 

Seasonable  notes       . .    41 
Orbenhoitse 

Large  white  trumpet 
Daffodils  in  pots    . .    42 

A  valuable  winter- 
flowering  green- 
house plant     . .     . .    42 


Flower  Garden 
Winter  treatment  of 

Sweet  Violets  . .     . .    42 
The     double     Amoor 

Adonis      42 

Riviera  notes 42 

Treks  and  Shrdbs 
Shrubby  Spiraeas  and 

their  culture   . .  43 

Pruning   the    Winter 
Jasmine    43 

GARDENINa  FOR  BEaiHNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week 44 

Increasing     London 

Pride 44 

Clematises  and  their 

culture      45 

Early  Peas 46 

The  Town  Garden    ..    45 
gardenina  of  the  week 
For    the  South    and 

South  Midlands     ..    46 
For  the   North   and 
North  Midlands    . .    46 

New  plants      46 

Spring  work  in  the  her- 
baceous borders        . .    47 
Answers    to    cobre- 
sfondents 
Flower  garden    . .     . .    47 
Trees  and  shrubs      . .    48 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Snowdrops,  Ivy  and  Moss  as  used  for  table  decoration  39 

Apple  Lord  Suffleld  growing  in  a  Highgate  garden      . .  40 

Narcissus  albicans  (moschatus)  as  grown  in  a  pot      . .  41 

A  winter-flowering  greenhouse  plant       42 

Sophora  japonlca  in  the  Koyal  Gardens,  Kew      . .     . .  43 

Increasing  London  Pride       44,  46 


EDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  Thh 
GARDEN,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  loish  advice  from 
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the  " ATiswers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
featwCf  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
wiU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  0/  their  assistance. 
AU  cmmnunications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Gardbn,  acc<mvpanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Edit&r  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  ca/re,  however,  mU  be  taken,  and  where  stamvps 
ore  enclosed,  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  rega/rds  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editw  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  loill  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  respons^lefor  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  ma/y  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  -not  be  taken  as  evidence 
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vfUl  aione  be  recognised  as  accepta/nce. 


OSices:  '20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


A    WILD    GARDEN    OF 
SHRUBS. 

THE  problem  sometimes  presents  itself  of 
securing  a  suitable  subject  or  subjects 
for  covering  dry  banks  which  will  give 
the  maximum  amount  of  beauty  for 
the  minimum  amount  of  trouble.  It 
is  not  difficult  to  find  effective  plants  for  such  a 
position,  providing  it  is  possible  to  work  the 
ground  well  before  planting  and  regularly  culti- 
vate it  afterwards  ;  the  same  plants  would,  how- 
ever, be  of  little  use  if  planted  in  poor  soil  and 
left  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

In  several  parts  of  the  gardens  at  Kew  the 
problem  has  been  faced  with  satisfactory  results, 
and  banks,  which  at  one  time  were  sparsely 
covered  with  poor  grass,  are  now  picturesquely 
clothed  with  low-growing  shrubs.  The  soil  in 
these  particular  positions  is  composed  of  light 
loam  and  gravel,  some  of  it  extremely  poor.  To 
deal  with  it  successfully  it  was  only  possible  to 
plant  such  things  as  would  be  likely  to  thrive 
without  any  special  cultivation,  for  it  was  not 
possible  to  deeply  trench  and  enrich  the  various 
areas.  The  ground  was  dug  over  to  bury  the 
grass,  and  that  was  practically  the  whole  of  the 
preparation  it  received.  The  plants  selected  for 
the  purpose  of  covering  the  mounds  were  double 
and  single  Gorse,  dwarf  Gorse,  Lavender,  Rose- 
mary, Cotton  Lavender,  Rosa  wiehuraiana, 
Cotoneaster  buxifolia,  Spartium  junoeum,  Cistus 
laurifolius,  C.  recognitus,  C.  ladaniferus  and  a 
few  other  species,  the  common  Savin  (Juniperus 
Sabina),  double-flowered  Brambles,  Potentilla 
f rutioosa,  Berberis  Aquifolium  and  B.  stenophylla. 
The  mounds  are  dotted  with  large-growing 
trees,  so  they  are  not  ideal  places  for  gardening. 
The  majority  of  the  plants  used,  however, 
blossom  more  freely  when  somewhat  stunted 
wood  is  formed  than  when  rank  branches  are 
produced.  This  is  specially  applicable  to  the 
double  Gorse  and  the  Cistuses,  for  they  are  never 
more  satisfactory  than  when  growth  is  slow  and 
the  plants  have  a  somewhat  stunted  character. 
When  planting  the  groups  care  was  taken  to 
form  a  natural-looking,  wavy  outline  ;  then  the 
various  shrubs  were  planted  in  irregular  patches, 
here  a  large  mass  of  double  Gorse  with  an 
adjoining  patch  of  Lavender,  there  a  group  of 
Cistus  laurifolius  with  Rosemary  for  its  neigh- 
bour, or,  again,  a  mass  of  dwarf  Cistuses  or  some 
other  subject  backed  up  with  Spanish  Broom  or 
faced  with  a  large  mass  of  Cotton  Lavender. 
The  union  of  the  various  groups  is  not  effected  by 
means  of  hard  or  harsh  dividing  lines,  but  each 
particular  plant  is  allowed  to  advance  and 
recede  here  and  there,  so  that  no  distinct 
dividing  line  is  detected.    As  the  majority  of  the 


plants  are  evergreen,  they  are  efifective  during 
the  whole  of  the  year  ;  while  in  spring,  when 
the  Gorse  is  covered  with  a  blaze  of  golden 
blossoms ;  during  early  summer,  when  the 
Cistuses  are  in  full  bloom ;  or  later,  when 
Lavender  and  Spanish  Broom  are  in  flower,  the 
effect  is  very  striking. 

The  only  trouble  caused  by  such  groups  is 
keeping  the  ground  clean  until  the  plants  grow 
large  enough  to  smother  any  weeds  that  appear, 
cutting  such  as  Lavender  over  after  flowering 
and  cutting  down  the  Gorse  if  it  becomes  too 
large.  The  latter  is,  however,  only  likely  to 
occur  if  the  ground  is  loose  or  rich.  Groups  such 
as  these  constitute  a  very  pleasing  phase  of  wild 
gardening  and  are  infinitely  preferable  to  the 
indiscriminate  planting  of  shrubs  in  some  out-of- 
the-way  comer  which  is  styled  the  wild  garden, 
where  they  are  left  to  fight  the  battle  of  life  out 
with  coarse-growing  weeds  of  the  Nettle  and 
Dock  type.  In  gardens,  of  course,  where  the 
soil  is  suitable  the  above  selection  of  plants  may 
be  added  to  by  the  inclusion  of  the  various  hardy 
P^rioas  and  Callunas.  It  is  not,  however,  advis- 
able to  plant  untested  subjects  indiscriminately. 
The  shrubs  mentioned  above  have  proved  satis- 
factory, and,  as  is  instanced  by  the  cases  alluded 
to,  they  are  suflSoient  to  form  an  effective  cover- 
ing for  banks  which   have  few  natiiral  advan- 

W.  Dallimore. 


OUR    WAYSIDE    TREES. 

The  advent  of  the  motor-car  and  the  cry  for 
dustless  roads  is  bringing  a  fresh  peril  to  our 
wayside  trees.  It  surely  cannot  be  sufficiently 
realised,  I  think,  or  we  should  not  hear  with 
equanimity  of  the  proposals  that  our  roads 
should  be  rendered  dustless  and  waterproof. 
We  may  pay  too  dearly  for  even  a  good  thing, 
and,  granting  that  the  absence  of  dust  or  slippery 
mud  is  desirable,  it  must  be  remembered  that 
the  tarring  and  waterproofing  of  our  roads 
means  death — a  death,  no  doubt,  more  or  less 
lingering,  but  none  the  less  certain — to  all  trees 
whose  roots  are  sealed  up  under  an  airless  and 
waterproof  covering.  Wiseacres  talk  glibly 
of  Westrumite  and  other  compounds  for 
reducing  dust  on  the  roads ;  but  even  these 
palliatives  are  injurious  after  a  time.  So  it 
behoves  all  tree-lovers  to  be  on  the  alert  to  pre- 
vent or  minimise  the  damage  that  surely  will 
ensue  if  such  proposals  are  carelessly  carried  out. 
The  real  difficulty  is  this :  that  so  many  causes 
can  mask  the  consequences  of  tarring  and 
asphalting  roads  that  it  requires  an  expert  to 
explain  where  the  true  danger  lies.  For 
instance,  in  low-lying  ground  where  there  is 
much  moisture  in  the  subsoil  at  all  seasons  trees 
will  live  and  even  thrive  with  only  a  small  air- 
space near  the  trunk  ;  but  on  dry  soils  and  steep 
slopes,  when  once  the  ground  has  got  thoroughly 
dry  the  moisture  cannot  be  renewed  sutficiently 
even    by   waterings  with  the  hose,  an  expense 


38 


tHE    GAEDEN. 


[Tanuary  23,  190&. 


our  ratepayers,  moreover,  would  resent,  and  so 
the  trees  will  first  stand  still,  then  dwindle  and 
die  back  till  they  become  an  eyesore. 

The  Plane  tree  is  so  robust  and  drought- 
enduring  that  it  will  stand  more  root  suiloeation 
than  any  northern  tree  that  I  know  of,  and  it  is  in 
consequence  pointed  out  as  a  proof  of  how  little 
harm  is  done  by  asphalting  or  cementing  a  road. 
The  Plane  tree,  however,  does  not  thrive  in  the 
colder  and  northern  parts  of  England ;  and,  more- 
over, who  would  wish  to  have  but  one  tree  for  our 
roadsides,  especially  one  that  is  so  late  in  leafing 
and  yet  subject  to  any  late  spring  frost  ?  Our 
native  Sycamores,  Elms,  Ash  trees,  and  especially 
the  Service  Tree  are  all  useful  and  excellent  for 
roadside  shelter  in  the  northern  parts  of  the 
kingdom,  and  the  Lime  tree,  where  it  can  get 
sufficient  moisture,  is,  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful 
of  all.  None  of  these  trees,  however,  will  live 
long  with  their  roots  covered  up,  and  it  would 
be  hopeless  to  plant  young  trees  that  could  never 
prosper.  Country  roads,  where  there  is  a  good 
ditch  on  either  side  to  supply  moisture  and  a 
certain  amount  of  air  to  the  roots  of  the  trees 
planted  on  the  verge,  may  alone  be  waterproofed 
without  injury  to  the  wayside  trees.  But  on 
rapid  slopes  and  dry,  sunny  hillsides,  how  can 
moisture  get  to  the  roots  in  sufficient  quantity  ? 
Many  instances  can  be  adduced  to  show  how 
fatal,  even  when  slow,  in  the  case  of  fine,  deeply- 
rooted  and  well-grown  trees  is  the  drought  and 
Bufibcation  that  follows  any  tarry  covering,  what- 
ever name  it  may  bear.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
great  cities  and  smoky  manufacturing  towns  it  is 
especially  necessary  to  sound  a  warning  note. 
Vegetation  has  already  so  many  things  to  contend 
against  in  the  atmosphere  that  it  is  the  more 
necessarj'  to  take  care  of  the  roots  of  trees, 
particulaily  if  they  are  well  grown  and  old. 
They  can  never  be  replaced  if  lost,  but  with  care 
they  may  be  preserved  for  another  generation. 
How  much  forethought  is  required  may  be 
exemplified  by  examining  the  dying  trees  in  the 
mining  districts.  They  are  more  often  killed 
by  the  drying-out  of  the  soil  from  the  drainage- 
pumps  of  the  collieries  than  by  the  pollution 
of  the  atmosphere.        Edward  H.  Woodall. 


NOTES   OF    THE   WEEK 

FOKTHCOMINQ    EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  hy  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

January  26. — Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Plants,  &c. ,  1  p.m.  to 
5  p.m.  Lecture  at  3  p.m.,  by  Mr.  W.  D.  Scott 
Moncrieff,  on  "  A  Method  of  using  Pomestio 
Sewage  in  Horticulture."  Admission,  23.  6d. 
Royal  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster. 

February  S.  — National  Fruit  Growers'  Federa- 
tion Annual  Meeting.  Royal  Horticultural  Hall, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 

May  6. — Royal  Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund 
Annual  Dinner,  the  Duke  of  Rutland  presiding. 


Mp.  W.  Bottlngr  Hemsley's  new 

address. — Mr.  Hemsley  wishes  it  to  be 
known  that  his  address  is  now  24,  Southfield 
Gardens,  Strawberry  Hill,  Middlesex. 

The  production  of  Cascara 
sag^f  ada  in  Engpland.— The  current  issue 
of  the  Kew  Bulletin  contains  some  most  interest- 
ing details  concerning  the  culture  of  Rhamnus 
purshiana  and  R.  californica,  from  the  bark  of 
which  the  useful  drug  known  as  Cascara  sagrada 
is  manufactured.  'These  trees  and  shrubs 
respectively  have  been  in  cultivation  at  Kew  for 
many  years,  and  owing  to  notice  having  been 
received  of  an  approaching  shortage  in  the 
natural  supply  from  North  America,  the 
authorities  had  a  small  tree  of  R.  purshiana  cut 
down  for  analysis.  This  was  undertaken  by 
Messrs.  Burroughs  and  Welcome,  ojlb.  of  dried 


bark  taken  from  the  tree  being  worked  up  into 
tabloids.  The  report  was  that  "  the  present 
extract  is  indistinguishable  in  its  action  from  that 
made  from  American  bark,"  and  a  further  letter 
from  Messrs.  Burroughs  and  Welcome  stated  that 
"the  physician  to  whom  your  special  Cascara 
was  submitted  reported  it  to  be  equal  to  the 
average  of  tabloid  products  from  bark  grown  in 
America."  Although  both  species  yield  the  drug, 
R.  californica  only  grows  as  a  shrub  at  Kew,  but 
R.  purshiana  attains  tree-like  dimensions,  and 
both  are  quite  hardy.  As  a  shortage  in  the 
supply  of  Cascara  may  be  expected  in  the  near 
future,  the  cultivation  of  the  last-named  in  this 
country  may  be  worth  attention  from  a  com- 
mercial standpoint. 

Scottish  Horticultural  Associa- 
tion.— The  notices  issued  prior  to  the  annual 
general  meeting  of  this  association,  on  January  12, 
contained,  in  addition  to  a  note  of  the  business 
before  the  meeting,  several  items  of  interest  to 
its  mambers  and  the  public.  No  fewer  than 
forty-four  meetings  of  the  council  or  committees 
were  held  during  the  past  year,  a  point  which 
says  much  for  the  activity  of  the  members  of 
these  bodies.  Then  a  statement  of  the  member- 
ship showed  a  gratifying  net  increase  of  fifteen, 
the  total  number  of  members  being  1,305.  An 
abstract  of  the  accounts  showed  that  the 
regrettable  loss  of  £156  Is.  6d.  on  the  Chrysan- 
themum show  had  been  partly  met  by  other 
sources  of  income,  and  that  the  net  falling-off  of 
the  funds  only  came  to  rather  more  than  £Oil, 
not  a  serious  amount  for  a  body  still  having  a 
credit  balance  of  £902  5s.  The  syllabus  of  sub- 
jects for  the  meetings  during  190it  was  also 
added,  and  it  gives  promise  of  some  interesting 
meetings  for  the  members  of  the  association. 

Croydon  and  District  Horticul- 
tural    Mutual      Improvement 

Society. — The  annual  report  and  statement 
of  accounts  for  190S  has  now  been  issued  and 
the  officers  elected  for  the  present  year.  During 
the  past  year  twenty-two  meetings  were  held,  and 
at  most  of  them  papers  on  horticultural  subjects 
were  given.  The  exhibitors  of  produce  at  these 
meetings  showed  a  decided  improvement  in 
number  and  the  high  quality  of  the  subject 
shown  was  well  maintained,  four  members,  viz., 
Messrs.  A.  Edwards,  M.  E.  Mills,  F.  Oxtoby  and 
C.  Thrower,  gaining  the  maximum  number  of 
points  throughout  the  year.  During  the  year 
£1  10s.  was  collected  at  the  meetings  for  the 
Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund,  a  praiseworthy  example 
which  other  societies  might  adopt.  We  are 
pleased  to  note  that  the  financial  affairs  of  this 
unique  and  vigorous  society  are  in  a  satisfactory 
condition,  and  we  wish  it  continued  success  in  the 
good  work  it  is  doing.  Mr.  Harry  Boshier  is 
re-elected  hon.  secretary,  and  we  think  the 
duties  could  not  be  placed  in  better  hands. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

Hybrid  Freeslas.— One  of  the  prettiest 
and  most  welcome  exhibits  at  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Hall  on  the  12th  inst.  wasthedelighttul  group 
of  hybrid  Freesias  from  Mr.  Herbert  Chapman, 
Rye,  Sussex.  At  any  season  of  the  year  the 
elegant  and  fragrant-flowered  sprays  of  these 
plants  would  be  welcome  ;  but  from  Christmas 
onwards  they  are  doubly  so,  and,  whether  as 
out  flowers  or  pot-grown  examples  for  the 
sitting-room,  we  have  few  things  more  precious 
or  more  deserving  of  general  cultivation.  I  re- 
member the  occasion  in  1907  when  the  variety 
which  bears  Mr.  Chapman's  name  received  by  a 
unanimous  vote  an  award  of  merit  from  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society,  and  while  I  was  at 
that  time  greatly  impressed  by  its  distinctive 
beauty  and  merit,  I  regard  it  a  still  greater 
acquisition  to-day  as  I  renew  my  acquaintance 
with  the  plant  from  time  to  time.     In   the  first 


place,  its  delicate  yet  pronounced  fragrance  is  a 
great  charm,  and  a  thing  of  which  one  rarely 
gets  enough  ;  while  that  rare  colour  suffusion  of 
deepest  orange  and  canary  yellow  renders  this 
exquisite  variety  irresistible  in  the  extreme. 
Freesia  Chapmanii  is  practically  a  thing  alone, 
and,  while  standing  at  the  head  of  an  interesting 
group,  has  good  companions  following  in  its 
train  and  in  shades  of  colour  that  embrace 
yellow,  white,  mauve,  pink  and  violet,  of  which 
more  will  be  heard  anon. — E.  H.  Jenkins, 
Hampton  Hill, 

Muscat  of  Alexandria  Grapes.— 

The  note  inTHEGAKDENonpage530,Vol.  LXXII., 
does  not  quite  settle  the  question  as  regards  other 
varieties  that  may  be  growing  in  various  parts  of 
the  country,  as  only  recently  I  saw  some  splendid 
bunches  of  Grapes  that  were  entirely  distinct 
from  any  of  the  varieties  "  X.  Y.  Z."  notes  ; 
indeed,  except  as  regards  their  colour,  shape  and 
size  they  were  not  Muscats  at  all,  and  this  causes 
me  to  say  I  do  not  think  the  matter  quite  cleared 
up.  As  far  as  I  can  see,  the  best  way  would  be  to 
have  every  kind  and  any  so-called  Muscats  given 
a  trial  at  Wisley.  When  grown  under  the  same 
conditions  it  would  be  easy  to  settle  this  matter. 
To  me  it  appears  very  strange  that  a  number  of 
well-known  experts  should  decide  on  the  8th  ult. 
that  the  bunches  were  not  Muscats,  whereas  on 
the  22nd  ult.  they  decided  that  a  bunch  from  the 
same  Vine  dec  idedly  was,  when  they  had  others 
for  comparison,  and  went  even  further  and  said 
that  the  disputed  variety  was  the  best.  I  am 
aware  the  bunch  on  the  latter  occasion  much  more 
resembled  the  well-known  variety  than  those 
previously  shown.  I  would  ask :  Have  any  of  the 
well  known  growers  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria 
noticed  during  the  last  few  weeks,  especially 
Christmas  week,  a  large  quantity  of  splendid 
Grapes  in  the  market,  just  the  size,  colour  and 
shape  of  the  well-known  Muscat  of  Alexandria — 
splendid  amber  berries,  sweet  and  very  juicy, 
but  having  no  Muscat  flavour  whatever  ?  The 
correct  name  I  am  unable  to  ascertain,  but  I 
believe  they  come  in  cjuantity  at  this  season  from 
Spain,  and  certainly  anyone  could  readily  mistake 
them  for  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and  they  are 
often  sold  as  such.  —  Grower. 

Recently  it  was  stated  in  The  Garden  by 

"  F.  R.  H.  S.  "  that  the  only  really  distinct 
White  Muscat  from  Muscat  of  Alexandria  was 
Cannon  Hall  Muscat.  It  is  unfortunate  in  relation 
to  that  well-known  but  far  from  satisfactory 
Grape  that  it  is  uncertain,  whether  raised  as  a 
seedling  or  the  pro  luct  of  one  of  those  sports 
which  have  not  infrecjuently  occurred  on  Muscat 
of  Alexandria  of  a  similar  form.  The  difficulty 
experienced  in  inducing  the  Cannon  Hall  form  to 
set  has,  so  far,  largely  been  the  chief  objection 
to  growing  it,  although  Mr.  Kay  of  Finchley  has 
surmounted  that  difficulty  with  considerable 
success.  Mr.  Kay  is  reported  to  have  said  that 
he  kept  his  Vines  rather  on  the  cool  side  when  in 
flower,  and  thus  secured  good  sets.  But  some 
years  since  there  occurred  a  sport  of  the  Cannon 
Hall  form  on  a  Muscat  of  Alexandria  worked 
on  a  Lady  Downe's  stock  at  Mr.  W.  Cole's 
vineyard,  Feltham,  which  was  propagated  and  a 
house  of  Vines  planted  ;  these  did  fairly  well,  but 
some  better  than  others.  A  second  generation 
from  the  best  was  propagated  and  planted,  and 
now  these  do  admirably  and  the  bunches  set  with 
remarkable  freedom.  This  is  a  greatly-improved 
Caimon  Hall,  which  Mr.  Cole  alone  possesses. — 
A.  Dean. 

Spring:  flower  grardening-.— While 

this  subject  is,  naturally,  creating  much  interest 
just  now,  it  may  be  well  to  recall  the  earlier 
efforts  in  providing  spring  flowers  in  beds  by 
that  pioneer  of  such  gardening,  Mr.  John 
Fleming,  then  of  Cliveden.  It  was  in  the  month 
of  May  and  near  to  its  end,  in  the  year  1866, 
nearly  forty-three  years  ago,  that  I  saw  in  all 
its  beauty  then  the  colour  effects  that  famous 
gardener  had  obtained  at  Cliveden.  Just  then 
also  the  late  Queen  Victoria  and  her  young 
family   were  in   residence   there.     The   bedding 


January  23,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


was  on  a  large  scale,  and,  looked  upon  from  the 
elevated  terrace  fronting  the  mansion,  showed 
big  masses  of  crimson  and  yellow  Wallflowers, 
blue  Forget-me-nots  (Myosotis  sylvatiea),  Silene 
pendula,  Limnanthes  Douglasii,  some  bedding 
Pansies  and  a  few  other  simple  hardy  plants. 
Naturally,  these  masses  were  rather  flat  and 
formal,  and  if  containing  no  bulbs — for  those 
spring  flowers  in  that  day  were  a  long  way  from 
being  so  universally  grown  as  now — the  beds  in 
any  ease  were  the  progenitors  of  what  has  so 
widely  followed  ;  and  while  there  may  be  diverse 
opinions  as  to  what  constitutes  taste  now  in 
arrangement,  certainly  all  must  rejoice  that 
spring  flower  gardening  is,  all  the  same,  so 
beautiful. — A.  D. 

The      fopthcomini:      "  Garden " 

Show. — I  write  to  express  the  pleasure  with 
which  I  notice  that  you  are  encouraged  by  the 
success  of  last  year  to  hold  another  exhibition  for 
readers  of  The  Garden  during  the  coming 
summer.  I  feel  sure  that  I  am  right  in  thinking 
that  you  will  welcome  exhibitors  from  a  distance 
and,  indeed,  are  anxious  to  do  all  in  your  power 
to  encourage  such  exhibitors  to  take  part.  May 
I,  then,  suggest  a  simple  way  in  which  much 
might  be  done  to  realise  this  end  ?  It  is  probable 
that  there  are  many  whose  experience  is  confined 
to  local  shows  and  may  be  deterred  from  com- 
peting by  ignorance  as  to  the  best  way,  even  if 
able  to  give  personal  attention  to  the  matter,  of 
conveying  exhibits  to  a  distance.  Still  greater 
diffidence  will  be  felt  by  those  who  would  have 
to  be  content  with  entrusting  their  exhibits  to 
the  handling  of  carriers,  though  they  would 
have  the  fullest  confidence  as  to  the  staging  after 
arrival.  I  would  suggest  that  it  would  be  a 
great  encouragement  and  help  to  such  readers  if 
you  could  see  your  way  to  publish  occasional 
notes  on  the  best  ways  of  transmitting  flowers 
and  fruits,  especially  Sweet  Peas,  herbaceous 
plants  and  such  fruits  as  Raspberries.  Some 
authoritative  definition  of  the  connotation  of 
"  herbaceous "  also  would  be  helpful.  I  trust 
you  may  be  able  to  give  these  suggestions  your 
kind  consideration.  —  E.  W.  C. ,  Thirsh.  [The 
points  raised  by  our  correspondent  shall  have  due 
attention.  — Ed.  ] 

Mr.  Dean  says  the  enforced  inclusion  of 

White  Currants  seems  likely  to  limit  the  com- 
petition. I  doubt  it.  Most  people  who  grow 
Currants  at  all  generally  include  a  few  bushes  of 
this  excellent  sort.  I  would  rather  see  a  dish  ol 
well-grown  White  Curranls  ohown  than  a  bunch 
of  poorly -grown  Grapes  With  regard  to  the 
classes  for  Onions,  Mr.  Dean  says  it  is  a  ques- 
tion what  constitutes  a  spring-sown  Onion  I 
take  it  to  mean  any  Onion  raised  after  the  New 
Year,  no  matter  how.  Mr.  Dean  would  also  like 
to  see  the  class  for  Intermediate  Carrots  replaced 
by  something  else,  being  too  early  in  the  season 
for  these  roots.  I  am  sorry,  but  I  hope  his 
request  will  not  be  complied  with.  I  am  sure 
some  creditable  specimens  were  shown  on  the 
last  occasion.  I  do  not  say  so  because  I  had  the 
good  fortune  to  secure  a  first  prize,  or  that  I 
intend  to  try  again,  but  it  is  a  vegetable  I  delight 
in  growing.  It  would  be  a  difficult  matter  to 
make  a  schedule  to  suit  everyone,  so  I  vote  to 
leave  very  well  alone.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
readers'  suggestions  were  carefully  weighed  up 
and  the  schedule  prepared  by  very  capable  men. 
We  had  a  pleasant  day  last  year  and  I  hope  we 
shall  again. — A.  C. 

Tpiteleia  unlfiopa  in  the  sveen- 

house.  —  For  the  embellishment  of  the 
greenhouse  at  this  dull  season,  nothing  succeeds 
better  than  this  easily-grown  little  bulb  with  its 
delightful  starry  flowers  varying  in  colour  from 
white  to  porcelain  blue,  which  are  successively 
thrown  up  over  a  period  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
weeks.  The  cultivation  is  extremely  simple, 
pots  or  hanging  baskets  suiting  it  admirably 
with  a  compost  of  loam,  leaf-soil  and  sand.  I 
think  a  basket  is  preferable  owing  to  the 
pendulous  habit  of  the  flowers,  which  show  to 
greater  advantage  when  suspended  from  the  roof. 


For  this  purpose  the  bulbs  are  best  started  into 
growth  before  being  placed  in  the  receptacle  in 
which  they  are  to  flower.  Lay  the  bulbs  in 
damp  moss  or  partially-decayed  leaf-soil  about 
the  middle  of  September,  keeping  them  in  a  cool, 
shady  position,  and  in  three  or  four  weeks  they 
will  be  sufficiently  advanced  in  growth  for  the 
purpose  in  view.  By  this  means  a  basket  will 
be  furnished  with  foliage  and  flowers  from  bottom 
to  top.  If  pots  are  more  convenient,  seven  or 
eight  bulbs  in  a  6-inoh  pot  give  very  good  results. 
After  potting  they  should  be  placed  in  a  cold 
frame  (aflFording  water  as  required  and  excluding 
frost)  until  the  end  of  November,  afterwards 
introducing  them  into  a  temperature  of  about  55°, 
when  they  will  begin  to  throw  up  their  dainty 
little  flowers  and  continue  to  do  so  until  early 
April.  After  flowering  they  may  be  planted  out 
permanently,  choosing  a  warm,  sheltered  aspect — 
if  such  a  spot  can  be  spared  on  the  rockery,  so 
much  the  better — or,  when  the  bulbs  have  gone 
to  rest,  they  may  be  shaken  out  of  the  soil  and 
stored  until  potting  time  comes  round. — J.  0. 
Edwards,  Pliis  Isiif,  near  Ruthin. 

Snowdrops  for  table  decopation. 

It  is  safe  to  assume  that  Snowdrops  are  univer- 
sally beloved  as  seen  growing  in  the  open  garden, 
but  it  is  rare  that  one  encounters  them  gathered 
and  used  for  decorative  purposes  indoors,  yet 


SXOWDROPS,    IVV    AND    MOSS    AS    USED    FOR 
TABLE    DECORATION. 

there  are  many  ways  in  which  they  may  be  so 
utilised.  The  illustration  shows  a  bunch  in 
a  small  vase,  the  latter  being  surrounded  by 
green  moss  in  which  sprays  of  small-leaved  Ivy 
are  intertwined.  This  combination  of  moss,  Ivy 
and  Snowdrops  is  a  most  pleasing  one,  and  those 
who  have  to  decorate  tables  during  Snowdrop 
time  might  easily  extend  the  idea.  Without  a 
green  base  of  this  description  the  Snowdrops  do 
not  show  up  well  oa  a  white  cloth. 

SnapaPag^OnS. — The  illustration  so 
admirably  rendered  and  presented  in  The 
Garden  for  January  2  of  the  beautiful  forms  of 
Snapdragons  we  now  have,  and  which  I  have 
often  seen  in  the  great  seed  farm  of  Messrs. 
Sutton  and  Sons  at  Beading,  should  help  to  draw 
wider  attention  to  them  than  even  yet  exists. 
What  a  remarkable  development  has  taken  place 
in  this  simple,  old-fashioned  flower,  and  what  a 
wealth  of  beauty  as  well  as  variety  of  colours 
are  found  in  them.  If  all  are  lovely,  and  such  is 
the  case,  the  new  pink,  carmine,  apricot  and 
orange  red  hues  stand  out  as  specially  so.  I  once 
suggested  that  a  charming  bed  might  be  made 
from  Antirrhinums  alone  by  carpeting  them  with 
the  Tom  Thumb  White  Queen,  then  among 
that  planting  the  medium  height  pink,  and  still 
further  amidst  those  the  tall  deep  crimson. 
Of  course,  with  several  distinct  colours  in  each  of 
the  three  sections  the  arrangement  could  be  as 


many  times  varied.  But  to  have  a  fine  show  of 
Snapdragons  under  any  conditions  it  is  only 
needful  to  purchase  a  few  packets  of  seed,  sow 
under  glass  in  April,  have  strong  plants  to  dibble 
out  into  beds  or  borders  at  the  end  of  May,  and 
a  brilliant  and  long-enduring  floral  display  soon 
follows. — A.  D. 

New  Potatoes  early  in  Januapy. 
It  would  be  most  interesting  if  Mr.  Johnson, 
who  sent  new  Potatoes  for  the  Editor's  Table, 
would  give  other  readers  of  The  Garden  his 
method  of  producing  new  Potatoes  so  early  in 
the  year  and  what  temperature  he  grows  them  in 
the  sheds. — George  W.  King. 

Scent  In  Rose  Capoline  Testout.— 
I  was  much  interested  in  the  article  on  page  633 
of  The  Garden  in  reference  to  Roses  Konigin 
Cirola  and  Caroline  Testout,  the  author  of  the 
article  writing  over  the  initial  letter  "P."  I  was 
much  surprised  to  read  at  almost  the  finish  of  his 
article  on  page  634  the  following  paragraph  : 
' '  Although  some  individuals  profess  to  being 
able  to  detect  fragrance  in  Caroline  Testout,  I 
must  say  I  cannot  do  so,  and  unfortunately  the 
newer  Rose  has  little. "  Something  must  be 
wrong  somewhere.  I  have  grown  Caroline  Tes- 
tout since  its  introduction,  both  in  pots  under 
glass  and  in  the  open,  and  I  must  say  my  plants 
inside  have  a  decided  perfume  after  the  style 
of  the  old  Cabbage  Rose,  although  not  in  such  a 
marked  degree.  I  have  not  noticed  those  in  the 
open,  but  will  not  fail  to  do  so  at  the  first 
opportunity. — Edward  F.  Kemp,  6',  AvenueSoad, 
Clapton. 

Peppetual  op  Amepican  Capna- 

tions. — I  do  not  take  up  my  pen  in  opposition 
to  the  Rev.  .J.  Jacob's  splendid  article  in  a  recent 
issue  of  your  widely-read  paper,  but  feel  that  he 
is  opposing  his  own  desires  by  applauding  the 
adoption  of  the  name  "  American  Perpetual 
Carnation,"  when  the  society  expressly  formed 
to  guard  the  interests  of  this  plant  has  definitely 
selected  the  name  "  Perpetual-flowering  Carna- 
tion." What  claim  has  America  upon  this  plant 
more  than  France,  which  country,  as  Mr.  Jacob 
confirms,  was  first  to  give  the  world  the 
"Remontant"  Carnation,  which  has  supplied 
the  basis  upon  which  both  British  and  American 
cultivators  have  worked?  Even  the  variety 
Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson  is  a  half-caste  French  Carna- 
tion, and  Enchantress  is  a  first  cousin  to  the 
French  stock.  These,  as  we  all  know,  were  raised 
by  Mr.  Peter  Fisher  (a  personal  friend  of  mine), 
who  himself  is  a  Scotchman.  Several  American 
raisers  have  used  such  varieties  as  Winter  Cheer 
and  Miss  Jollif  to  improve  their  strain.  We 
hear  that  the  Carnation  is  booming,  but  we  are 
on  the  eve  of  a  still  greater  boom  which,  with 
the  further  improvement  of  the  plants  as  regards 
habit  of  growth,  formation  of  flower,  stem  and 
calyx,  will  pass  through  all  civilise;!  countries. 
To  repair  and  strengthen  the  scent  will  take 
years  of  hard  work.  As  yet  we  have  but  tasted 
of  a  few  new  colours  or  shades  of  the  same, 
which  the  hybridist  sees  faintly  looming  in  the 
distance,  varying  shades  of  yellow,  buff,  bronze, 
purple,  raaxive,  and  dare  we  say  blue,  while 
fancy  varieties  will  extend  and  strengthen  public 
interest  in  the  Perpetual-flowering  Carnation. 
When  we  think  of  the  present-day  imperfect 
varieties,  coupled  with  their  comparatively  short 
lives  (because  so  different  to  a  Rose,  the 
Perpetual-flowering  Carnation  deteriorates  and 
requires  replacing  after  being  in  commerce  from 
si-K  to  eight  years),  we  realise  the  gigantic  work 
left  for  the  Carnation  enthusiast  and  expert  to 
do,  and  the  best  varieties  from  several  countries 
will  be  required  to  achieve  this  end.  So  let  the 
name  Perpetual-flowering  stand,  and  perhaps 
the  world  will  owe  Britain  the  greatest  debt  of 
all  for  varieties  much  finer  and  far  more  glorious 
than  we  have  even  thought  of  as  yet.  As  author 
of  a  little  book  which  is  named  "The  Perpetual- 
flowering  Carnation,"  perhaps  one  has  a  very 
strong  personal  interest  in  this  name,  which,  at 
least,  does  describe  the  plant. — Montagu  C. 
Allwood,  Bush  Hill  Park,  N. 


40 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[January  23,  19O9 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

APPLES    GROWING    AT    HIGHGATE. 

THE  Apple  tree  shown  in  the  illustration 
is  growing  in  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Piatt's 
garden,  Ken  View,  Highgate.  At 
the  time  the  photograph  was  taken 
the  tree  was  carrying  eighty-five 
splendid  fruits,  the  heaviest  of  which 
weighed  three-quarters  of  a  pound,  and  several 
turned  lOoz.  A  tree  of  New  Hawthornden  was 
carrying  seventy-five  good  fruits  at  the  same 
time.  Some  fruits  had  fallen  ofif  both  trees  through 
previous  winds.  I  think  these  trees  conclusively 
prove  the  suitability  of  Highgate  as  a  fruit- 
growing district.  All  our  trees,  I  may  add,  are 
young  ones,  having  only  been  planted  about  six 
years.  C.  Turner  (Gardener). 

Ktii  View,  Highgate. 

FRUIT   NOTES. 

Pruning. — As  regularly  as  year  succeeds  year 
fruit-growers  are  strongly  urged  to  get  all  the 
pruning  of  their  fruit  trees  in  the  open  quarters 
completed  before  Christmas,  and  with  equal 
regularity  this  is  seldom  accomplished.  In  many 
instances  this  may  be  inexcusable,  but  in  the  vast 
majority  it  is  a  matter  of  simple  impossibility  to 
finish  the  task  by  the  time  named.  One  does  not 
desire  to  question  its  desiral)ility,  but  it  is  cer- 
tainly not  an  imperative  point  in  successful  fruit 
culture.  Provided  that  the  pruning  is  carried 
out  intelligently,  it  does  not  make  any  material 
dificrence  to  the  results  achieved  whether  it  is 
done  in  the  autumn  or  very  early  in  the  new 
year  :  and,  therefore,  those  who  have  still  work 
to  do  in  tree-cutting  should  put  it  in  hand  when- 
ever the  weather  is  favourable  and  bring  it  to  a 


'1  *'- 

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T-~    - 

'T'x.i^snr^^mam 

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-.- ■  ""C'' / '■"■-^  •?>. .. -■'  .^^'■ 

/>■  ■'•.W...^-'^^<^>r'^;^^'    "■ . 

-^^I^>    r      ..•        -^    .*^,       ■■.^.    --.     ..     .     <^-'^^*^       ^ 

^»^v  •r,--,      „,%     ^.d    t>.^K.,        -..•»■,        -^    ^ 

1, '^r<  V  ^-" 

j«r-ir-^*w^  -v  ■■.•••    ^       ,-.  ■«: 

1^.       •    -CrS^                  .       .           •   K      •                ■    -^  "v.. 

*>^>^ 

e^^^^ 

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--r-^T  ^ 

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— ^-^lAi^J^             "  ;■             ^'            -   ^ 

.  -,.;.-;''  ■  - '-.  w^^f-"-.  O-.  ,.r--N^..     • 

/  -f."        V^'-      \.^-:*-r/^^'-— ^.:-^•       •     ,    ■  .. 

"^^t^     SSi-'^'-^N'"     '  V.'  '                    '. -■"*«^:*:. 

APPLE   LORD    SUFFIELD    GROWINfi    IN    A    HIGHGATE    GARDEN. 


conclusion  as  soon  as  possible.  Each  tree  should 
be  treated  on  its  merits  as  an  individual,  and  any 
peculiarities  which  it  may  have  in  cropping  must 
have  proper  consideration,  or  the  results  will  not 
be  as  gratifying  as  they  ought  to  be.  The  first 
essential  is  to  admit  light  and  air,  and  the  removal 
of  growths  should  be  carried  to  such  an  extent 
that  when  the  tree  is  in  full  leaf  it  will  be 
possible  to  see  right  through  it  from  any  point. 
This  means  that  every  bud  on  all  the  wood  will 
have  the  benefit  of  unobstructed  light,  and  will 
be  perfect  as  a  consequence. 

Scions  for  Grafting. — As  the  work  of  pruning 
the  Apples  and  Pears  proceeds,  the  operator  should 
keep  in  mind  whether  or  not  he  requires  any 
scions  for  grafting  as  soon  as  the  sap  commences 
to  rise  in  the  stocks  in  the  spring.  If  there  are 
old  trees  producing  no  fruits,  or  the  crops  are 
worthless,  then  grafting  will  be  necessary  to 
restore  them  to  a  profitable  condition,  and  the 
scions  should  be  selected  from  the  prunings. 
Many  more  of  each  variety  than  will  be  actually 
wanted  should  be  chosen,  and  they  must  be  tied 
in  bundles  and  thrown  under  a  north  wall  or 
similar  cool  position,  where  they  will  remain  in  a 
dormant  condition  until  they  are  wanted  for  use. 
They  can  be  out  to  the  proper  length  at  the  out- 
set or  not  at  the  convenience  of  the  grower,  but 
it  is  usually  better  to  cut  when  wanted.  It  must 
be  clearly  borne  in  mind  that  one  of  the  secrets  of 
success  in  grafting  is  to  have  the  scions  dormant  at 
the  moment  of  insertion,  although  it  is  imperative 
that  the  sap  shall  be  rising  in  the  stock. 

Planting, — The  leaves  remained  on  the  trees 
so  late  in  the  past  autumn  that  the  task  of  getting 
the  planting  finished  before  Christmas  was  more 
than  ordinarily  dittioult,  and  there  is  little  doubt 
that  many  trees  now  wait  to  be  placed  in  their 
permanent  positions.  Whenever  the  weather  is 
favourable  —  that  is 
to  say,  when  the  soil 
is  neither  frozen  nor 
sodden  with  wet — 
the  operation  should 
be  pressed  forward 
with  all  speed,  as  the 
earlier  the  roots  can 
be  got  in  the  better 
progress  will  the  tree 
make  during  the 
forthcoming  season. 
In  all  cases  wide, 
shallow  stations 
should  be  formed  for 
the  accommodation 
of  the  roots,  and, 
unless  it  is  absolutely 
necessar}',  no  manure 
should  be  used  in 
such  a  position  that 
the  young  roots  will 
come  into  contact 
with  it.  Between 
each  layer  of  roots 
firmly  work  sound, 
fibrous  loam  if  it  is 
at  command,  and,  it 
it  is  not,  use  the  best 
soil  that  cm  be  pro- 
cured for  the  pur- 
pose, so  arranging 
matters  that,  when 
the  work  is  done  and 
all  the  roots  are 
covered  in,  the  upper- 
most layer  will  not 
be  more  than  '2  inches 
beneath  the  surface. 
A  mulching  of  short, 
sweet  manure  may  be 
placed  on  the  top  if 
it  is  considered  neces- 
sary or  desirable,  or 
it  can  be  withheld 
until  the  soil  has 
become  warmed  by 
the  sun.     H.  J.  W. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


SOME  GOOD  VEGETABLES  AND 
SALADS  FROM  SEEDS. 

Cr  summer  was  comparatively  favourable 
for  the  culture  of  vegetables  and 
salads,  and  there  were  a  few  varieties 
of  more  than  ordinary  merit,  some 
new  and  some  old,  that  did  especially 
well,  and  mention  of  these  will  doubt- 
less be  useful  for  the  guidance  of  those  who  are 
in  doubt  as  to  what  varieties  to  purchase. 

Taking  Peas  first,  those  which  did  best  were 
Webbs  Surprise,  Carter's  I'aisy,  Glory  of  Devon 
and  Gladstone.  The  first-named  is  a  new  early 
one  raised  by  Messrs.  Webb  of  Stourbridge,  and 
is,  I  think,  destined  to  become  a  general  favourite. 
It  is  of  dwarf  habit,  growing  no  more  than 
1'2  inches  high  with  me,  but  the  haulm  was 
simply  covered  with  good-sized  pods,  each  con- 
taining seven  or  eight  large  Peas  of  exquisite 
flavour.  Carter's  Daisy,  of  course,  is  too  well 
known  to  need  any  description  ;  the  crop  was 
enormous  and  followed  Webb's  Surprise.  Glory 
of  Devon  is  perhaps  not  so  well  known  ;  it  is  an 
immense  cropper  and  grows  about  3  feet  high, 
the  quality  being  medium.  (Jladstone  was  em- 
ployed as  a  late  variety,  and  well  maintained  its 
high  reputation.  Although  the  row  commenced 
to  crop  at  the  end  of  August,  good  pods  were 
gathered  from  the  same  plants  the  second  week 
in  October.  For  quality  this  Pea  takes  a  lot  of 
beating. 

Among  green  crops  Webb's  New  Leader 
Cabbage  and  their  Pride  of  the  Market  Brussels 
Sprout  called  for  special  mention.  I  have  never 
seen  Cabbages  ready  for  cutting  in  so  short  a  time 
as  the  variety  now  under  notice.  It  forms  beau- 
tiful conical-shaped  heads  of  firm  texture  and 
excellent  quality.  Although  the  Brussels  Sprout 
is  described  as  a  good  market  variety,  it  is  also 
excellf  nt  for  garden  crops,  as  the  quality  is  good 
aud  the  sprouts  button  up  well  and  are  placed 
closely  together  on  the  stem. 

Great  improvements  have  been  made  among 
Runner  Beans  during  the  last  decade,  and  three 
varieties  I  grew  last  year  were  all  first  class. 
These  were  Carter's  Scarlet  Emperor,  Sutton's 
Prizewinner  and  Webb's  Exhibition.  All  are 
very  long-podded  varieties,  but  it  would  be  a 
most  difficult  task  to  say  which  is  best.  Cer- 
tainly all  are  well  worth  growing,  as  they  give 
enormous  crops  of  high  quality. 

A  Carrot  which  I  had  not  grown  before,  but 
which  will  again  find  a  place,  is  Carter's  Early 
Market.  This  is  a  Shorthorn  variety  that  forms 
roots  for  pulling  very  quickly,  and  it  is  of  superb 
quality.  This  was  sown  thickly  in  a  small  bed, 
aud  as  soon  as  the  roots  were  as  large  as  the  little 
finger  pulling  commenced,  thus  thinning  the 
rows.  From  this  small  bed  a  good  bunch  was 
pulled  twice  a  week  through  the  summer,  and  in 
the  autumn  over  a  peck  of  medium-sized  roots 
were  lifted.  Early  in  .January  these  were  still  of 
excellent  quality,  so  that  in  addition  to  being  a 
good  early  variety  this  Carrot  may  be  regarded  as 
possessing  good  keeping  qualities. 

Those  who  have  only  small  gardens,  but  who 
like  Marrow  s  of  first-class  quality,  should  grow 
Sutton's  Pen-y-byd.  This  is  a  bush  variety, 
hence  it  does  not  take  up  much  room,  while  the 
plants  are  continually  producing  medium-sized 
round  Marrows  of  exquisite  flavour. 

Among  summer  salads  Lettuces  naturally 
occupy  a  prominent  position,  and  the  variety 
that  pleased  me  most  last  year  was  Carter's 
Holborn  Standard.  This  is  a  Cabbage  variety  of 
very  high  merit.  It  turns  in  (juickly  and  forms 
large,  solid,  handsome  hearts  that  are  exceedingly 
crisp,  more  so  than  the  majority  of  Cos  varieties, 
and,  most  important  of  all,  it  does  not  quickly 
run  to  seed  in  hot  weather.  Of  Radishes,  Webb's 
Ruby  Gem  and  Climax  did  well,  and  both  are  of 
good  i|\iality,  the  first-named  coming  in  very 
early. 


January  23,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


41 


The  varieties  mentioned  are  in  no  way  exhaus- 
tive, but  are  mentioned  as  giving  excellent  results 
under  ordinary  conditions  of  culture.  H 


BKOAD 


THEIE 


BEANS  AND 
CULTURE. 
The  Broad  Bean  cannot  be  regarded  quite  as  one 
of  the  aristocrats  of  the  vegetable  garden,  and 
for  this  reason  probably  it  does  not  get  the 
attention  from  cultivators  that  it  deserves.  Like 
nearly  every  other  vegetable,  it  has  been  very 
much  improved  during  recent  years,  equally  in 
size  of  pod,  flavour  and  cropping  qualities,  and 
although  moderately  good  results  can  be  obtained 
by  indifferent  or  medium-class  culture,  it  is  a 
vegetable  that  repays  all  the  attention  that  one 
can  give  it. 

Undoubtedly  it  prefers  a  soil  that  contains  a 
preponderance  of  clay,  but  with  manuring,  and 
especially  for  early  crops,  good 
results  can  be  obtained  from  soil 
of  a  lighter  or  more  sandy 
character.  As  the  plant  is  a  deep- 
rooting  one,  the  bed  to  be  planted 
should  have  been  trenched  at  least 
two  spits  deep  during  the  winter 
months,  or,  of  course,  early  in 
the  autumn  where  November 
sowing  was  to  be  done.  Spring 
sowing  is,  however,  now  most 
generally  adopted.  Between  the 
two  spits  a  good  layer  of  well- 
rotted  manure  should  be  placed, 
and  at  the  time  of  sowing  a  dress- 
ing of  superphosphate  of  lime, 
4oz.  to  the  square  yard,  lightly 
hoed  into  the  surface  will  prove 
of  much  benefit. 

Usually  the  first  sowing  is  made 
at  the  end  of  January,  following 
with  other  and  more  general 
sowings  during  February  and 
March.  The  seeds  are  gene- 
rally sown  in  double  rows, 
i.e.,    two    rows    9   inches    to 

1  foot  apart,  with  a  distance  of 

2  feet  between  the  double  rows, 
and  the  seeds  placed  8  inches 
asunder  in  the  rows  ;  2  inches  to 

3  inches  is  a  good  depth  to  sow. 
As  mice  are  very  fond  of  the  seeds, 
precautions  must  be  taken  to  check 
their  depredations,  a  good  plan 
being  to  immerse  the  seeds  in 
paratiSn  for  a  few  seconds  and 
then,  while  still  wet,  roll  them  in 
red  lead  so  that  each  is  coated 
with  it.  Some  growers  prefer  to 
make  a  rather  thick  sowing  in  a 
specially-prepared  bed  in  January, 
and  then  transplant  a  number  of 
the  seedlings  when  they  are  about 
2  inches  high.  If  done  with  care 
this  system  answers  very  well. 

Frequent  hoeings  during  the 
growing  period  will  be  of  the 
greatest  benefit  to  the  plants,  and 
when  a  good  crop  of  flowers 
have  opened  it  is  wise  to  pinch  out  the  tops 
of  the  plants,  as  this  throws  more  energy  into 
the  pods  and  frequently  acts  as  a  check  to 
black  aphis. 

Broad  Beans  are  represented  by  three  types, 
viz.,  Mazagan,  Longpod  and  Green  Windsor. 
At  one  time  the  first-named  used  to  be  largely 
sown  in  the  autumn  for  early  supplies,  but 
now  most  cultivators  rely  on  early  sowings 
of  the  Longpod  .section,  the  Windsor  type 
following  these  for  later  crops.  There  is  no 
doubt  that  the  latter  possesses  the  best  quality, 
but  the  Longpods  are  excellent  if  properly 
cooked.  Of  these  Sutton's  Mammoth  and 
Webb's  Kinver  Mammoth  Longpod  are  good, 
and  among  the  Windsor  section,  Sutton's  Giant 
Windsor,  a  very  large-podded  variety,  and  Green 
Windsor  can  be  confidently  recommended. 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN 


T 


SEASONABLE    NOTES. 
HERE  is  really  no  "  ofl^  season 

enthusiastic  rosarian.  While  out 
doors  the  Rose  garden  wears  a  dreary 
appearance,  under  glass  in  the  early 
forcing-house  the  advancing  flower- 
buds  give  us  a  foretaste  of  summer. 
That  delightful  Rose  Richmond  is  a  grand 
acquisition  for  winter  flowering,  and  will 
evidently  become  very  popular.  All  who  grow 
indoor  Roses  on  the  planted-out  system,  which 
is  by  far  the  best,  should  provide  for  a  supply  of 
Rhea  Reid,  the  new  American  novelty,  which  is 
said  to  surpass  both  Liberty  and  Richmond  for 
winter  blooming. 

Ventilate  very  carefully  just  now  and  during 
the    next    few   weeks.      The    bright    sun    and 


NARCISSUS  ALBICANS   (mOSCHATDS)   AS   GKOWN   IN   A   POT.     (See  page  /A) 


cold,  cutting  winds  will  often  play  havoc  with 
the  tender  growths.  When  a  bright  day  is 
anticipated,  be  prepared  by  afibrding  a  very  little 
air  on  the  top  ventilators  before  the  temperature 
rises  too  rapidly.  Artificial  heat  may  be  reduced  ; 
but  do  not  be  alarmed  if  the  sun  raises  the 
temperature  somewhat  rapidly,  for  this  will  do  no 
harm.  Every  grower  of  indoor  Roses  should  aim 
at  having  a  nice  genial,  buoyant  temperatnre,  as 
nearly  as  possible  imitating  that  which  we  have 
when  the  plants  are  in  the  same  condition  in 
the  open.  Where  foliage  is  abundant  the  need 
of  water  will  be  more ;  but  if  anything  the 
amateur  errs  in  overwatering  his  indoor  Roses, 
causing  thereby  a  severe  cheek,  which  in  turn 
brings  on  mildew.  Nothing  is  better  for  this 
pest  under  glass  than  the  Campbell  Vaporiser, 
which  anyone   can   mE^nipulate.      Weak    liquid 


manure  should  be  given  the  plants  once  a  week 
where  the  flower-buds  are  visible.  Plants  less 
advanced  may  have  the  surface  soil  stirred 
occasionally,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  some  good 
for  the  i  artificial  manure  given  to  each  plant  would  be 
helpful. 

Plants  just  purchased  should  receive  a  top- 
dressing  of  good  compost,  consisting  of  loam, 
leaf-soil  and  well-decayed  manure  in  equal  parts 
and  about  half  a  part  of  bone-meal,  all  well  mixed. 
Take  away  the  old  soil  to  about  1  inch  in  depth, 
and  replace  with  the  new.  Commence  in  a 
temperature  of  about  50°  to  55°  by  day  and  45° 
to  50°  by  night. 

The  pruning  of  pot  Roses  should  now  be 
carried  out  where  the  plants  are  intended  for 
flowering  in  April  and  May.  Discard  unhealthy 
old  wood  freely,  as  the  growths  producing  the 
highest  quality  flowers  are  the  best  ripened  of 
list  year's  production.  Cut  these  back  to  within 
3  inches  to  8  inches  of  the  soil, 
according  to  the  vigour  of  the 
variety,  the  strongest  being  re- 
tained the  longest.  Many  pot 
Roses  often  grow  tall  rather  than 
bushy,  and  these  look  well  treated 
as  pillar  Roses.  In  this  case 
tlieir  growths  are  very  moderately 
pruned.  Try  a  plant  or  two  of 
Frau  Karl  Druschki  and  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay  like  this.  They 
make  charming  decorative  objects 
for  the  corners  of  rooms.  A  supply 
of  the  delightful  little  Polyantha 
Roses  should  be  brought  into  the 
forcing-house  from  time  to  time. 
One  of  the  best  is  Mme.  Norbert 
Levavasseur,  which  is  now  pro- 
curable in  bloom  in  the  market. 
This  has  a  delightful  appearance 
in  artificial  light.  Other  charm- 
ing sorts  are  Maman  Levavasseur 
(Baby  Dorothy),  Phyllis,  Mrs. 
W.  H.  Cutbush,  Katherine  Zeimet, 
Eugenie  Lamesch  and  Rosel  Dach, 
the  latter  at  present  little  known, 
but  one  of  wondrous  beauty. 

No  establishment  can  afford  to 

miss  having  a  supply  of  rambler 

Roses  to  bloom  in  April,  May  and 

June.    The  great  secret  of  success 

is  having  the  growths  well  ripened. 

Two   year    old   own-root   plants, 

made  bushy  by  cutting  back  once 

or   twice,   are   the  best   to   start 

with.     They  should  be  potted  up 

from  the  open  ground  in  October, 

and  out  back  to  within  12  inches 

to    15  inches  of  the  soil.     Bring 

them  in  the  greenhouse  now  and 

stand  them  on  a  bed  of  manure, 

tan    or    leaves    where    they    can 

obtain  a  gentle  bottom-heat.    Such 

plants  yield  four  or  five  splendid 

corymbs   and    panicles  of  bloom, 

and      make     lovely     decorative 

plants.        After     flowering      cut 

them    back    hard   and    grow  on 

under  glass  during  the   summer, 

when  some  fine  long  rods  may  be  obtained,  which, 

if  ripened  off  well,  will  provide  some  tall  pillar 

plants.     They   would   not  require    repotting    if 

well  looked  after    as   regards   top-dressing   and 

liquid  manure,  for  it  is  best  to  somewhat  confine 

the  roots.      Of  course,   where   a   supply   is   not 

available,  plants  may  be  purchased  ready  prepared 

for     forcing.       Excellent     sorts     are     Crimson 

Rambler,     Blush     Rambler,    Dorothy    Perkins, 

Lady  Gay,  Hiawatha  and  Tausendschon. 

Climbing  Roses  on  the  walls  and  roofs  of 
conservatories  or  greenhouses  should  now  be 
spread  out.  The  main  pruning  was  done  after 
flowering  last  June,  so  that  all  that  is  now 
necessary  is  to  shorten  back  laterals  to  two  or 
four  eyes  and  to  remove  unripened  ends  from  main 
rods.  If  too  many  rods  are  present,  remove  some 
entirely  rather  than  overcrowd  them.  P. 


42 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  23,  1909. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 


LARGE    WHITE    TRUMPET     DAFFO- 
DILS  IN    POTS. 

THE  illustration  on  page  41  of  Narcissus 
albicans,  or,  as  it  is  verv  often  listed 
in  Dutch  catalogues,  N.  moschatus, 
shows  an  exceedingly  pretty  and 
loosely-arranged  pot  of  Uafifodils.  If, 
however,  we  had  only  the  photograph 
to  go  by,  it  might  as  well  have  been  one  of  some 
yellow  variety  such  as  princeps  or  Cervantes  as 
what  it  is.  Not  so.  however,  in  reality,  tor  if 
there  is  any  yellow  in  the  large  white  trumpets 
when  grown  in  the  open,  there  is  absolutely  none 
when  they  are  in  pots  in  a  greenhouse,  especially 
if  they  are  brought  into  flower  rather  early. 

The  dwarf  W.  P.  Milner, 
which  I  feel  I  can  never  too  often 
or  too  strongly  recommend  for 
pot  oulturs,  and  which  in  the 
open  is  a  pale  sulphur  yellow, 
comes  quite  white  under  glass. 
High  prices  are  given  for  large 
white  trumpets  such  as  Lady  of 
the  Snows,  which  open  pure 
white  out  of  doors.  We  need 
not  do  this  for  varieties  which 
we  are  going  to  force,  for  Mrs. 
Thompson,  albicans  and  oernuus 
pulcher,  to  name  three  very 
useful  ones  for  this  purpose,  can 
be  obtained,  the  two  first  at 
about  Is.  6d.  to  28.  a  dozen  and 
the  third  at  about  double  the 
price.  They  will  give  us  light, 
elegant  flowers  of  pure  white 
throughout  the  whole  of  their  life. 
Comparatively  few  people,  I 
think,  know  the  value,  of  this 
section  for  affording  a  break  or 
giving  a  contrast  to  the  yellows. 
Although  I  am  one  of  those  who 
think  that  there  is  nothing  like  a 
yellow  Daffodil,  just  as  I  think  a 
real  Violet  should  be  purple,  I 
feel  inclined  to  waver  in  my  love 
when  I  see  the  dainty  chasteness 
of  a  well-grown  pot  of  pure  white 
flowers.  Joseph  Jacob. 


here  and  there  in  the  group.  Subjects  we  use 
for  this  purpose  are  small  white  Chrysanthe- 
mums, Paper  White  Narcissus,  Begonia  Turnford 
Hall  and  Abutilon  Savitzii.  Justicia  speciosa  is 
the  name  by  which  this  plant  is  sometimes 
known  in  gardens. 

Kew.  A.  OsHORN. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


WINTER     TREATMENT     OF     SWEET 
VIOLETS. 
URING  the  past  few  weeks  the  weathtr 
experienced  has   not   been   favourable 
for  these  charming  flowers,  snow  and 
fog    being    prevalent    and    the    atmo- 
!  sphere    charged    with     moisture.      It    is    most 


D 


underneath  ;  needless  to  say,  means  were  taken 
to  prevent  a  return  of  his  nocturnal  visits. 

If  the  glass  lights  become  dirty  through  any 
cause  (they  frequently  do  owing  to  deposits  from 
chimneys  or  trees,  or  both),  choose  a  fine,  mild 
day  and  give  them  a  thorough  washing.  It  is 
important  that  the  plants  have  the  full  benefit  of 
all  the  light  available  during  the  short,  dull 
days.  Numerous  varieties  of  Violets  are  grown, 
all  excellent,  but  for  midwinter  flowering 
perhaps  the  popular  Marie  Louise  is  the 
best.  C.  Ruse. 


A  VALUABLE  WINTER- 
FLOWERING  GREEN- 
HOUSE   PLANT. 

(Peristrophe  .specios.v.  ) 
The  above  is  one  of  our  most 
valuable  winter-blooming  green- 
house plants.  Commencing  to 
flower  about  October,  it  con- 
tinues to  bloom  well  into  the 
new  year.  Individually  the 
blossoms  are  not  large,  but  this  is 
amply  compensated  for  by  the 
freedom  with  which  they  are 
produced,  as  can  be  readily  seen  by  the  illustra- 
tion. The  colour  of  the  flowers  is  a  rich  carmine- 
purple,  with  deeper-coloured  spots  near  the  base 
of  the  lip.  An  interesting  and  remarkable  point 
about  the  flowers  is  that  they  are  all  really 
upside  down  as  seen  with  the  eye,  the  corolla 
being  twisted. 

The  plant  is  of  easy  culture,  rooting  readily 
from  cuttings  in  a  close  propagating  frame 
during  March.  Loam,  leaf  mould  and  sand  form 
the  chief  constituents  of  the  potting  compost ;  a 
little  peat  may  be  added,  but  it  is  not  essential. 
The  plants  will  be  found  to  flower  better  if 
placed  out  in  a  frame  during  August  and  the 
first  half  of  September,  shading  only  for  a  couple 
of  hours  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 

When  grown  on  for  a  second  or  third  year 
Peristrophe  speciosa  forms  large  bushy  specimens. 
The  rich  colour  of  the  flowers  is  best  seen  when 
white-flowered  or  variegated   plants  are  dotted 


WINTER-FLOWERING   GREENHOUSE    PLANT   (PERISTROPHE   SPECIOSA). 


important  during  such  weather  to  keep  the  plants 
free  from  all  dead  and  decaying  leaves,  also  to 
admit  abundance  of  air  on  all  occasions  when  this 
can  be  done  without  unduly  exposing  them  to  the 
frost  or  rains.  Stir  the  soil  around  the  plants 
occasionally  with  a  stick  and  sprinkle  a  little 
soot  OTer  the  surface  of  the  bed,  and  should 
evidence  of  a  slug  be  seen,  this  enemy  must  be 
diligently  sought  for,  caught  and  despatched. 

The  Violet  plants  which  produce  a  continu- 
ance of  flowers  through  the  winter  are  most 
valuable,  and  too  much  care  cannot  be  bestowed 
upon  them.  Sometimes  mice  will  be  trouble- 
some ;  I  have  seen  a  number  of  flowers  bitten 
oflf  and  placed  in  heaps  under  the  leaves  of  the 
plants,  apparently  just  for  mischief.  This 
is  done  during  the  night.  Traps  must  be  used 
when  signs  of  these  enemies  appear.  During  a 
spell  of  snowy  weather  a  rabbit  once  gained 
admittance  to   the  Violet  frame    by   burrowing 


THE  DOUBLE   AMOOR  ADONIS. 

The  fine  yellow  flowers  of  Adonis  vernalis,  the 
spring  Adonis,  are  so  welcome  that  we  greeted 
as  a  welcome  arrival  the  appearance  of  the  lovely 
Amoor  Adonis  (A.  amurensis).  It  comes  so  early 
in  the  year,  often  blooming  in 
February  or  early  March,  that  it 
is  hailed  with  the  utmost  pleasure 
as  it  opens  its  bright  yellow 
flowers  to  the  faint  wooing  of  the 
sunshine  of  the  time. 

It  appears,  from  all  accounts,  to 
be  a  variable  species,  and  among 
the  varieties  introduced  we  find 
one  with  double  flowers  called  A. 
amurensis  flore-pleno.  This  is  a 
fascinating  thing  when  seen  open, 
and  singular  in  its  appearance. 
The  flowers,  which  are  quite 
double,  are  large  and  ornamental, 
the  golden  yellow  which  consti- 
tutes the  main  colouring  being 
glowing  enough  to  give  us  special 
pleasure  in  the  early  period  at 
which  it  flowers.  But  the  interest 
of  the  flower  is  heightened  to  us 
by  a  curious  green  circle,  formed 
of  green  segments,  which  sets  off 
the  other  petals.  Unlike  some 
features  of  this  kind,  this  green 
ring  is  quite  permanent.  This 
fine  Adonis  is  worthy  of  the  notice 
of  those  who  like  the  family  and 
who  do  not  object  to  double 
flowers  in  plants  such  as  this. 

The  cultivation  of  this  Adonis 
is  not  difficult,  as  it  will  thrive  in 
any  loamy  soil,  although  it  is 
more  vigorous  it  in  a  rather 
heavy  one.  Its  early  blooming 
points  to  the  desirability  of  its 
being  planted  in  a  sheltered 
situation,  as,  although  hardy,  it 
is  the  better  for  shelter  from  cold 
winds.  To  prolong  the  beauty  ot 
these  Amoor  River  Adonises  I 
have  found  it  desirable  to  cover 
them  with  a  hand-light  during  the 
period  of  bloom,  but  this  is  not 
necessary  in  a  sunny,  sheltered 
place  where  other  things  keep  off 
cold  winds.  A  sunny  position  is 
also  desirable,  and  the  attacks  of 
slugs  should  be  warded  off  in  gardens  where 
these  pests  are  troublesome. 

Dumfries.  S.  Arnott. 


RIVIERA     NOTES. 

Acacia  podaltri^folia. — This  pretty  winter- 
flowering  Acacia,  as  usual,  opened  its  first 
flowers  at  the  end  of  November,  and  will  continue 
in  great  beauty  till  the  middle  or  end  ot  January, 
according  to  its  situation.  There  are  so  many 
Acacias  that  are  beautiful  and  indispensable  in 
the  winter  gardens  on  this  coast  that  it  is  really 
difficult  to  say  which  is  the  most  delightful. 
Though  its  colouring  is  much  paler  and  clearer 
and  its  growth  more  leafy  and  bushy,  this  may 
best  be  described  as  a  winter-flowering  A. 
cultriformis,  and,  like  it,  it  requires  a  dry  and 
sunny  position.     It  is  best  cut  back  to  below  the 


January  23,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


43 


big  terminal  panicles  after  flowering,  before  the 
spring  growth  commences.  I  can  fancy  nothing 
more  delightful  for  the  December  greenhouse  in 
England  if  it  accommodates  itself  well  to  pot 
culture  and  the  moister  air  of  the  North.  The 
silver-leaved  shoots  are  very  decorative  without 
any  flower,  and  I  place  it  unhesitatingly  among 
the  three  or  four  Acacias  that  should  be  grown 
in  every  good  garden  either  in  England  or  on 
the  PJviera.  As  it  dislikes  limestone  it  must  be 
grafted  on  A.  floribunda  if  it  is  to  succeed  in 
ordinary  soils,  but  when  it  is  grown  in  pots 
peat  soil  will  suit  it  best.  It  requires  a  sunny 
position  and  plenty  of  air,  with  careful  watering. 

Rose  Comtessb  de  Turenne. — This  good  Bour- 
bon Rose  yearly  improves  in  freedom  of  flower 
during  late  autumn  and  winter.  When  fully 
grown  and  well  established  it  is  superior  even  to 
Caroline  Testout  in  the  garden,  as  it  is  very 
fragrant  and  is  a  shade  clearer  in  colouring,  with 
leaves  that  shine  as  if  varnished — they  are  so 
unusually  glossy.  One  does  not  hear  as  much  of 
this  fine  Rose  as  it  deserves.  It  lasts  well  when 
cut  and  the  flower  holds  up  its  head  well. 

Rose  White  Maman  Coohet. — As  a  rule  any 
Rose  that  is  specially  good  in  England  is  not  a 
Rose  for  this  climate,  but  this  admirable  Rose  is 
the  exception  that  proves  the  rule.  It  will  even 
thrive  on  a  south  wall,  where  it  gives  splendid 
flowers  in  winter.  In  the  open  the  big  buds  do 
not  open  freely,  and  in  wet  weather  are  apt  to 
rot ;  but  that  is  almost  an  advantage  here  where 
BO  few  Roses  can  stand  against  a  wall. 
Lamarque  and  Souvenir  de  Sarah  Prince  are  the 
only  other  Roses  I  have  found  satisfactory  on  a 
sunny  wall,  all  other  Roses  either  burning  badly 
or  else  suffering  bo  from  the  summer  drought  and 
heat  that  they  become  enfeebled  and  die  out. 

Lyon  Rose. — It  is  far  too  soon  to  say  any- 
thing more  about  it  beyond  its  brilliant  and 
beautiful  coral  pink  colour,  but  it  is  expected  to 
be  quite  a  Rose  for  the  market,  and  possibly  a 
good  winter  bloomer.  There  are  bo  many  dis- 
appointments in  new  Roses  that,  until  they  have 
been  fully  tried  in  varying  conditions  and  soils, 
one  hesitates  to  recommend  them.  That 
beautiful  Rose  Etoile  de  France,  for  instance, 
after  being  much  praised  is  being  discarded 
because  so  few  of  its  blooms  are  satisfactory. 
Now  and  again  we  get  a  glorious  bloom, 
which  whets  our  appetite  for  more,  but  we 
may  wait  a  whole  season  perhaps  before  we  do 
get  a  bloom  perfect  in  colour  and  in  shape. 

Eeijoa  sellowiana. — How  little  one  hears  of 
this  new  fruit,  which  was  spoken  of  so  generally 
a  few  years  ago  !  Though  this  shrub  grows 
sufficiently  freely  in  all  situations  and  nearly 
all  soils,  it  certainly  does  not  fruit  freely,  and 
those  who  succeed  best  with  it  describe  it  as  apt 
to  drop  its  fruit  just  when  it  should  be  swelling 
up  for  maturity.  Individually  I  had  given  it  up 
in  despair,  so  to  say,  when  the  other  day  I  found 
a  small  fruit  on  the  ground  under  a  good  bush, 
which  had  flowered  freely  each  year  without 
ever  giving  a  fruit.  Though  not  a  full-grown 
fruit  I  jut  it  open  to  see  what  it  looked  like, 
and  finding  the  smell  most  agreeable  I  tasted  it, 
and  to  my  great  surprise  found  it  so  delicious 
that  I  am  writing  this  in  the  hope  that  some- 
one may  suggest  a  means  of  fruiting  this  pretty 
shrub  more  commonly.  My  impression  is  that 
it  does  not  like  a  calcareous  soil  such  as  I  have 
here,  and  also  that  in  August,  when  the  fruit 
should  begin  to  develop,  it  then  needs  liquid 
manure  in  hot  and  dry  weather.  Certainly  there 
was  much  more  rain  on  this  coast  last  August 
than  is  usual,  which  may  have  helped  this  im- 
perfect fruit  to  swell,  and  generally  the  autumn 
here  has  been  very  genial,  though  too  dry  for 
most  things.  Has  anyone  grown  Eeijoa  sellowi- 
ana in  a  Peach  house  where  it  could  have  a 
little  extra  heat  in  a  cold  month  of  August? 
With  good  leaf -mould  or  peat  it  ought  to  fruit 
under  such  conditions,  especially  if  planted  in 
a  good  tub  and  not  in  the  open  border.  Its 
roots  must  be  kept  under  control  in  any 
case.  E.  H.  Woodall. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

SHRUBBY  SPIRAEAS  AND  THEIR 
CULTURE. 


T 


"^  HE  various  shrubby  Spirasaa  form  an 
important  group  of  plants  for  orna- 
mental gardening,  as  the  majority 
blossom  well  and  give  little  cultural 
trouble.  They  may  be  used  for  a 
variety  of  purposes,  and  are  equally 
at  home  whether  planted  to  form  groups  in  the 
shrubbery  or  specimen  beds  in  conspicuous  places 
on  lawns.  Some  few  species  are  desirable 
subjects  to  grow  into  specimen  bushes,  while 
others  are  of  service  for  the  wild  garden.  They 
attain  their  maximum  dimensions  in  good,  well- 
worked,  loamy  soil ;  but  some  thrive  in  soil  of  a 
hungry,  sandy  nature.  The  majority  are  gross 
feeders,  however,  and  amply  repay  the  trouble 
and  expense  attached  to  a  top-dressing  of  rotten 
manure  every  second  spring.  The  sorts  which 
sucker  freely  are  easily  increased  by  division  of 
the    stools    in     spring.       The    group,    however. 


blossoms  from  early  spring  until  June ;  the 
other  set  opens  its  blooms  from  July  until 
late  autumn.  All  the  spring-flowering  sorts 
produce  their  flowers  from  wood  ripened  the 
previous  year,  whereas  the  autumn-blooming 
sorts  bear  theirs  from  the  current  season's 
wood.  W.  Dalumore. 

(To  he  continued.) 


PRUNING  THE  WINTER  .JASMINE. 
Many  amateurs  and  even  some  gardeners  are  at 
a  loss  to  know  how  and  when  to  prune  this 
beautiful  winter-flowering  shrub,  with  the  result 
that  plants  are  frequently  neglected,  much  to 
their  disadvantage.  In  the  case  of  young 
specimens  these  will  require  but  little,  if  any, 
cutting  ;  but  old  plants  which  have  become  con- 
siderably overcrowded  can  be  greatly  benefited 
by  a  judicious  use  of  the  knife. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  the  bright 
yellow  flowers  are  borne  on  the  young  wand-like 
shoots  of  the  previous  summer's  growth,  hence 
it  is  the  production  of  these  that  the  cultivator 


SOPHOKA  JAPONICA  IN   THE  ROYAL  GARDENS,    KEW.      {See  page  V.I,  Jammrjl  .9.) 


which  is  made  up  principally  of  spring- flowering 
sorts  does  not  sucker,  and  these  are  usually 
increased  by  means  of  cuttings  during  summer. 
Some  sorts  root  freely,  but  others  are  rather 
difficult  unless  the  cuttings  are  taken  at  the 
right  time.  The  best  time  is  when  the  wood  is 
firm  without  being  at  all  ripe,  say,  July.  These 
cuttings  may  be  about  4  inches  long  and  be 
inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil  in  a  warm  propa- 
gating case. 

Some  of  the  early-flowering  set  form  excellent 
subjects  for  forcing,  especially  when  about  three 
years  old.  At  that  age  they  are  usually  shapely 
plants,  with  long,  elegant  branches  which 
blossom  profusely.  Later  the  plants  get  tall  and 
dense,  and  are  only  suitable  for  large  structures  ; 
still,  large  specimens  lifted  from  shrubberies  and 
forced  for  the  decoration  of  large  halls  or  similar 
places  are  wonderfully  effective. 

To  obtain  the  most  satisfactory  results  from 
Spirseas  attention  must  be  given  to  pruning,  and 
the  operator  must  know  what  he  is  about  before 
he  attempts  the  work.  They  naturally  divide 
themselves  into  two  distinct  sets  by  reason  of 
the  season  of  flowering.      One  set  produces  its 


must  endeavour  to  encourage.  Bearing  this  in 
mind,  it  will  be  obvious  that  if  pruning  were 
done  in  the  autumn  much  flowering  wood  would 
be  out  away.  The  proper  time  to  undertake  the 
pruning  of  this  shrub  is  immediately  after  the 
flowers  have  faded ;  then  new  shoots  will  be 
made  during  the  coming  summer  for  flowering 
next  winter. 

In  the  case  of  old,  overgrown  specimens,  the 
first  thing  to  do  will  be  to  cut  right  out  at  the 
base  some  of  the  oldest  of  the  branches  and  so 
thin  the  plant  generally.  Of  those  that  are  left 
attention  must  next  be  directed  to  the  lateral  or 
side  shoots,  and  where  it  is  desired  to  reduce 
these  cut  out  to  within  1  inch  or  2  inches  of  the 
main  stems  all  the  oldest  and  worst.  This  will 
usually  suffice,  but  where  further  reduction  is 
necessary  to  keep  the  plant  within  bounds  the 
other  laterals  may  be  shortened  as  desired.  If 
the  plant  can  be  given  a  good  mulching  of  well- 
rotted  manure  as  soon  as  this  work  is  done  and 
then  afforded  water  during  dry  weather,  strong 
young  shoots  will  quickly  be  made,  and  from 
these  a  good  display  of  flowers  may  be  expected 
next  winter. 


44 


THE     GARDEN. 


[January  23, 1909. 


G*ART>ENING     FOR     BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FRAMES.— Where  a  hot-bed  has  to  be 
made  for  the  purpose  of  raising  seed- 
lings, no  time  must  be  lost  in  securing 
and  preparing  the  necessary  materials. 
An  ideal  hot-bed  can  be  made  of 
leaves  and  long,  strawy  stable 
manure  in  equal  proportions,  but  where  leaves 
cannot  be  obtained  all  stable  manure  will 
answer  very  well,  although  it  does  not  usually 
retain  heat  so  well  as  the  mixture.  Sutticient 
material  will  be  required  to  form  a  bed  2  feet  in 
depth,  and  where  the  frame  is  a  portable  one 
and  is  placed  on  the  hot-bed  the  heap  of  manure 
should  be  made  large  enough  to  allow  of  12  inches 
or  15  inches  protruding  outside  the  frame  on  all 
sides.  This  will  enable  the  operator  to  walk 
round  the  latter  when  attending  to  the  contents. 
The  manure  and  leaves  should  be  turned  and 
thoroughlj'  shaken  up  every  other  day  for  a  week 
before  making  up  into  the  bed.  When  forming 
the  latter  well  shake  the  materialsso  thatno  lumps 
are  allowed  to  escape,  and  tread  firm  as  the  work 
proceeds.  Auriculas  and  Carnations  in  cold 
frames  may  now  require  a  little  water,  and 
where  this  is  used  it  should  be  slightly  warmed. 
Bedding  plants  in  warm  frames  may  have  more 
air  whenever  the  outside  temperature  will 
allow  it. 

Greenhouse. — The  present  is  a  good  time  to 
sow  seeds  of  tuberous  Begonias  and  (iloxlnias, 
and  if  Jhe  resulting  seedlings  are  given  good 
treatment  they  will  flower  well  in  late  summer 
and  autumn.  They  are  not  at  all  difficult  to 
manage,  and  every  beginner  should  endeavour  to 
grow  a  few.  Rather  shallow  pans  or  boxes  are 
the  best  for  the  seeds,  and  these  must  be  well 
drained  with  pieces  of  broken  pots  and  filled  to 
their  brims  with  a  finely-sifted  mixture  of  peat, 
loam  and  sand  in  equal  proportions,  placing  a 
layer  of  rough  material  over  the  drainage  first. 
Make  all  firm,  then  scatter  the  seeds  evenly 
on  the  surface  and  press  all  flat  with  the  bottom 
of  a  clean  pot.  They  will  not  need  covering,  as 
the  seeds  are  very  small.  To  facilitate  even 
sowing  the  seeds  may  be  mixed  with  a  little 
silver  sand.  Cover  the  boxes  with  brown  paper 
or  panes  of  glass  and  stand  in  a  temperature  of 
Ii0°,  or  55°  will  do  very  well  for  the  Begonias.  As 
soon  as  the  tiny  seedlings  appear,  remove  the 
paper  or  glass  and  keep  near  the  glass  of  the 
house. 

Fntit  Garden. — Where  it  is  intended  to  graft 
stocks  in  March,  the  present  is  a  good  time  to 
select  grafts  or  scions  of  the  varieties  it  is  desired 


I--    ^i^y.:       ;   V-: 


I. — PORTION     OF    AN    OLD     PLANT    OF    LONDON 
PRIDE   LUTED  BEADY   FOR   DIVISION 


to  propagate.  These  must  consist  of  shoots 
that  were  formed  last  summer,  and  they  should 
be  firm  and  about  the  thickness  of  an  ordinary 
lead  pencil.  Cut  them  into  lengths  1  foot  or  so 
long,  tie  them  into  bundles,  firmly  and  plainly 
label  each,  and  then  burj-  them  two-thirds  their 
length  in  soil.  This  will  have  a  slightly  retarding 
efl^eot  on  the  shoots  but  also  keep  them  plump, 
two  desirable  points,  especially  with  Pears  and 
Apples.  Any  old  trees  that  have  not  fruited 
well  in  the  past  may  be  greatly  benefited  by  the 
application  of  strong  liquid  manure  to  the  soil 
in  which  they  are  growing.  It  frequently 
happens  that  much  of  this  is  wasted  at  this 
season,  but  it  should  be  used  on  the  old  fruit 
trees  instead. 

Flower  Garden.  —  Where  lawns  need  any 
attention  in  the  way  of  filling  up  depressions  or 
levelling  hills,  this  should  be  attended  to  with- 
out delay.  In  either  case  the  turf  will  have  to 
be  lifted  in  strips  2  inches  thick  and  1  foot  wide, 
adding  or  removing  soil  as  the  case  may  be,  after 
which  replace  the  turf  and  beat  the  whole  firmly. 
This  work  must  not  be  done  during  frosty 
weather.  The  beautiful  Iris  stylosa  will  now  be 
opening  its  flowers,  and  these  must  be  protected 
from  birds,  which  seem  to  have  a  great  liking 
for  them.  Black  cotton  stretched  tightly  from 
sticks  a  few  inches  above  the  plant  is  most 
effective,  and  at  the  same  time  inconspicuous. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Where  Aspiragus  beds 
have  not  been  mulched  with  manure,  this  should 
be  attended  to  at  once.  A  6-inch  thick  dressing 
is  none  too  much,  as  the  plant  is  a  gross  feeder 
and  it  is  necessary  to  induce  strong  growths  of 
a  succulent  character.  At  this  season  only 
manure  that  i.s  well  decayed  should  be  used  for 
this  purpose.  Where  it  is  desired  to  increase  the 
stock  of  Rhubarb,  a  few  clumps  may  now  be 
lifted  and  divided,  taking  care  to  obtain  at  least 
one  of  the  pink-coloured  crowns  with  each 
portion.  Only  a  few  clumps  should  be  treated 
thus,  as  it  is  unwise  to  pull  from  the  divided 
crowns  the  first  summer.  H. 


INCREASING    LONDON    PRIDE. 

Saxifraga  umbrosa  is  more  familiarly  known 
by  the  name  of  London  Pride,  and  is  a  plant  that 
is  universally  cultivated.  The  common  name 
seems  to  suggest  that  the  plant  had  its  origin  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  London,  but  there  is  no 
information  forthcoming  to  substantiate  this. 
For  many  years  London  Pride  has  been  grown 
very  extensively  in  gardens  in  and  around  the 
neighbourhood  of  large  towns  and  in  almost 
every  conceivable  position.  It  is  a  plant  that 
may  be  described  as  suitable  for  either  sunny  or 
shady  borders,  no  position  appearing  to  come 
amiss  to  it.  Not  seldom  in  old  and  well- 
established  gardens  it  is  in  frequent  request  as 
a  plant  for  edgings  to  bold  and  handsome 
borders,  straight  lines  forming  an  excel- 
lent finish  to  a  well-arranged  border  of  hardy 
plants.  This  plant  will  grow  in  any  ordinary 
garden  soil,  but  its  prospects  are  considerably 
improved  by  treating  the  quarters  allocated 
to  it  in  thorough  fashion.  The  flowers  are 
white  and  pink,  dotted  red,  and  are  borne  in 
graceful  sprays  on  slender,  wiry  stems.  For 
decoration  indoors  the  blossoms  have  many 
uses.  As  a  subject  suitable  for  table  decoration 
the  flowers  have  few  equals,  and  the  merest 
novice  can  arrange  a  most  tasteful  decoration 
with  comparative  ease.  London  Pride  comes 
into  flower  in  the  early  summer  and  remains  in 
good  condition  xmtil  July.  We  have  frequently 
gathered    large    and     handsome    bunches     for 


exhibiting  in  competitions  of  hardy  flowers  in 
early  .Tuly  from  plants  that  have  been  in  blossom 
since  May. 

London  Pride  is  a  perennial,  and  may  be 
increased  by  cuttings  and  by  division  ;  but  the 
latter  is  the  more  popular  method.  Opinions 
differ  as  to  when  the  division  of  the  old  roots 
should  take  place.  We  have  no  hesitation  in 
lifting  and  dividing  them  at  any  time  from  the 
closing  days  of  January  until  the  concluding 
days  of  March.  When  this  work  is  carried  out 
at  the  first-mentioned  period,  we  commence 
operations  only  on  such  days  as  the  weather  is 
mild  and  the  ground  free  from  frosts.  When 
the  division  of  the  plants  is  carried  out  early,  the 
mated  pieces  become  established  all  the  more 
quickly  and  a  pretty  display  is  obtained  in  the 
succeeding  flowering  season.  This  is  less  likely 
to  be  the  case  when  the  division  is  done  late  in 
the  spring. 

Every  few  years  London  Pride  should  be  lifted 
and  divided,  as  growth  becomes  stronger  and 
better  in  consequence,  and  the  display  of  blossoms 
better  and  far  more  effective.     Fig.  1  represents 


2. — THREE    TYPICAL  SHOOTS  OF   THE  OLD    PLANT 
SHOWN   IN  FIG.    I. 

a  portion  of  an  old  plant  that  will  be  benefited 
by  being  divided  at  the  present  time.  Note  the 
number  of  strong,  vigorous  shoots  that  are 
present,  also  the  numerous  young  shoots,  some 
of  embryonic  nature,  from  which  so  much  may 
be  made. 

Fig.  2  represents  three  ideal  pieces  of  a  divided 
plant.  They  each  differ  in  their  character.  The 
one  in  the  centre  is  a  piece  having  two  or  three 
crowns,  each  too  compact  in  its  character  to 
divide  satisfactorily.  The  two  outer  pieces 
have  vigorous  roots  adhering,  which  may,  if 
desired,  be  shortened  back  to  any  length  so  long 
as  there  are  roots  visible  on  the  stem  to  ensure 
its  future  progress. 

There  are,  however,  a  far  larger  number  of  young 
growths  that  are  only  partially  developed  in  each 
old  plant  and  which  the  beginner  may  desire  to 
utilise.  These  again  have  their  uses,  and 
by  dealing  with  them  promptly  we  may 
very  soon  bring  into  effect  a  large  number  of 
promising  young  plants.  Fig.  3  serves  the 
purpose  of  illustrating  the  varied  character  of 
these  shoots  of  recent  development.  Some  of 
them  it  will  be  observed  are  verj'  slender  and 
fragile-looking,  but  they  have  the  element  of 
considerable  promise  in  each  of  them,  which  will 
soon  become  an  accomplished  fact  if  they  are 
treated  with  proper  care.  Such  little  pieces 
may  be  dibbled  in  boxes  or  cold  frames  in  nice 


January  23,  1909.] 


THE    GAIiDEN. 


45 


3. — SEVERAL  TYPES  OF  YOnNG  SHOOTS  AS  FOUND 
IN   OLD   PLANTS. 

friable  and  sandy  soil.  Just  an  inch  or  2  inches 
apart  will  suffice,  and  if  the  soil  be  pressed 
firmly  at  the  base  of  each  young  growth  we 
have  little  doubt  that  they  will  grow. 

Fig.  4  shows  the  method  of  propagating  the 
more  vigorous  growths  in  boxes.  They  may  be 
inserted  in  precisely  the  same  way  in  a  cold 
frame  with  equal  success.  The  box  of  plants 
should  be  placed  in  a  frame  for  a  time  to 
encourage  vigorous  root-action.  We  prefer  to 
plant  strong  pieces  of  a  divided  plant  in  the 
quarters  where  they  are  to  flower.  Observe  a 
distance  between  each  plant  of  a  few  inches  at 
least — we  prefer  6  inches — and  in  a  little  while 
the  intervening  spaces  will  be  quite  covered  in 
with  new  and  vigorous  growths. 

CLEMATISES  AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 

This  family  contains  some  of  our  best  hardy 
olimbiog  plants,  and  for  covering  trellises, 
fences,  walls,  tree-stumps,  arbours  or  arches  they 
cannot  be  surpassed.  There  are  a  large  number 
of  beautiful  garden  hybrids  and  varieties,  and 
these,  in  addition  to  a  few  of  the  species,  are 
very  ornamental.  The  plants  delight  in  a  well- 
drained  yet  rather  heavy  soil  which  has  been 
well  trenched  and  a  good  amount  of  well-rotted 
manure  and  some  old  mortar  rubbish  added. 
The  manure  must  be  well  buried,  so  that  the 
roots  do  not  come  into  contact  with  it  immedi- 
ately the  specimens  are  planted.  Clematises 
are  usually  supplied  by  nurserymen  in  pots  and 
may  be  planted  at  almost  any  season,  spring  and 
early  summer  being  the  best  times. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  grafting  on  to  por- 
tions of  the  roots  of  the  common  Traveller's  Joy 
(Clematis  Vitalba),  these  being  potted  up  into 
small  pots  as  soon  as  the  grafting  is  done  and 
plunged  in  Coeoanut  fibre  in  a*  warm,  moist 
house  until  a  union  is  effected.  Layers,  too, 
will  root  if  given  time,  a  young  vigorous  growth 
being  notched,  pegged  down  and  covered  with 
soil  in  early  summer.  Cuttings  made  from  a 
piece  of  one  year  old  wood,  allowing  one  eye  or 
bud  to  each,  may  also  be  rooted  if  inserted  in 
sandy  soil  and  plunged  under  glass  as  advised 
for  grafts.  Besides  this  plunging,  it  is  advisable 
to  cover  each  cutting-pot  with  a  bell-glass. 
Seeds  of  most  species  germinate  freely  if  sown  in 
well-drained  pots  of  light  soil  in  the  spring, 
standing  these  in  a  cool  house  until  growth  is 
active. 

The  greatest  trouble  in  the  cultivation  of 
Clematises  is  the  pruning,  owing  to  the  several 
sections  requiring  different  treatment  in  this 
respect.  When  purchasing  plants  the  amateur 
should  make  a  point  of  ascertaining  from  the 
nurseryman  to  which  section  they  belong,  then 
the  after-treatment    will    be    much    simplified. 


For  garden  purposes  the  plants  are  divided  into 
five  well-defined  sections,  namely,  florida,  patens, 
lanuginosa,  Viticella  and  Jackmanii,  and  the 
pruning  of  all  the  plants  belonging  to  a  section 
will  be  the  same.  The  florida  and  patens  sec- 
tions flower  in  late  spring  or  early  summer  on 
the  wood  that  was  made  the  previous  year.  The 
only  pruning  needed  is  the  removal  of  old,  worn- 
out  wood  in  February.  The  lanuginosa  section 
includes  the  very  large-flowered  sorts,  and  these 
bloom  during  the  summer  on  short  shoots  pro- 
duced from  the  old  wood.  Pruning  consists  in 
shortening  back  the  growths  into  well-ripened 
wood  in  February  before  the  buds  are  breaking, 
pruning  to  a  good  plump  pair  of  buds.  Those 
belonging  to  the  Viticella  and  Jackmanii  sections 
flower  in  the  autumn,  and,  unless  required  to 
cover  a  very  large  area,  should  be  cut  down  to 
within  1  foot  of  the  ground  in  February.  Great 
care  should  be  taken  in  the  training  of  them  all, 
else  the  shoots  will  quickly  form  a  tangled,  un- 
manageable mass. 

C.  montana,  the  Mountain  Clematis,  is  a  very 
beautiful  white-flowered  species  that  flowers  in 
May ;  it  is  best  when  allowed  to  grow  in  a 
natural  manner.  C.  indivisa  is  not  quite  hardy ; 
it  has  rather  small  white  flowers  and  is  one  of 
the  best  cool  greenhouse  climbers  that  we  have. 
All  Clematises  like  plenty  of  water  during  the 
growing  season,  and  a  mulch  of  well-rotted 
manure  on  the  roots  is  much  appreciated  during 
the  summer  months. 


EARLY  PEAS. 
A  (iOOD  sowing  may  now  be  made  with  com- 
parative safety  on  a  well-prepared  south  border, 
selecting  dwarf  varieties  for  the  purpose  as  less 
likely  to  sufier  from  the  effect  of  cold  wind  in 
March  and  April  than  tall-growing  sorts. 
Young  Pea  plants  will,  under  certain  circum- 
stances, bear  considerable  frost  without  injur3', 
but  they  can  ill  withstand  a  cold,  harsh  wind. 
As  soon  as  the  young  plants  are  through  the 
ground  give  protection  from  wind  by  drawing 
the  soil  up  as  high  as  possible  on  each  side  of  the 
row.  Stake  closely  as  soon  as  ready,  introducing 
a  few  evergreen  branches  to  help  protect  the 
plants.  Where  space  and  pots  are  available,  a 
sowing  may  now  be  made  to  produce  Peas  about 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


4. — ^METHOD  OF  PLANTING  THE  DIVIDED  POR- 
TIONS IN  BOXES  AND  SUITABLE  FOR  A 
SMALL    OxROWBR. 

April  20.  Eight-inch  pots  are  quite  large 
enough,  and  should  be  half  filled  with  good  rich 
loam,  covering  the  seed  with  1  inch  of  the  same 
soil.  Nothing  approaching  a  high  temperature 
or  close  atmosphere  must  be  allowed,  or  failure 
is  sure  to  follow.  A  late  Peach  house  or  similar 
cool  quarters  will  suit  them  admirably.  Weekly 
sowings  made  in  pots  from  now  to  the  end  of 
February  should  afford  an  occasional  dish  of 
Peas  from  April  20  until  they  can  be  gathered 
from  those  sown  under  the  shelter  of  south  walls 
a  month  ago. 


Laying  Down  New  Turf. — Advantage  should 
be  taken  of  mild  weather  to  get  the  work  of 
turf-laying  done.  In  some  gardens  it  is  neces- 
sary to  make  new  lawns  and  in  others  to  patch 
old  ones,  and  the  best  time  for  such  work  is  while 
the  grass  turves  are  easily  cut  and  beaten  down 
again.  The  surface  of  the  soil  should  be  made 
quite  level  and  be  freed  from  stones  ;  then  put 
on  a  covering  of  ordinary  garden  soil  passed 
through  a  half-inch  mesh  sieve  about  1  inch 
deep.  All  turves  should  be  cut  even  in  thick- 
ness and  of  the  same  length  and  width  respec- 
tively. Rolled  turves  should  be  .3  feet  long  and 
10  inches  wide  ;  unrolled  ones  1  foot  long  and 
10  inches  wide.  The  thickness  should  not  be 
more  than  2  inches.  Commence  to  lay  down  the 
turves  at  one  corner,  one  side  or  end  of  the 
plot  to  be  covered,  whichever  is  most  convenient : 
but  in  every  instance  straight  lines  of  turves 
should  be  laid,  and  the  joints  must  fit  closely,  as 
later  in  the  season,  when  drying  winds  come, 
there  will  be  wide  openings  between  the  turves 
if  the  latter  are  carelessly  put  down  now.  After 
laying  the  turves  beat  them  down  with  the  turf- 
beater  before  rolling  them  ;  the  roller  will  press 
forward  some  of  the  turves  and  leave  the  surface 
generally  in  a  waved  condition,  especially  if  the 
roller  is  passed  over  the  turves  always  in  one 
direction ;  but  by  first  selecting  the  uneven 
spots,  beating  them  down,  and  then  rolling  in 
different  directions,  a  very  even  surface  will  be 
the  result. 

Bulbs  in  Beds  and  Boxes.  —  The  town 
gardener  can  make  a  very  brilliant  display  in 
his  garden  by  the  use  of  bulbs  alone.  Where 
they  have  been  freely  planted  in  beds  and  boxes 
the  leaves  will  shortly  appear,  and  every  care 
should  be  taken  of  them.  Both  rats  and  birds 
will  dislodge  and  spoil  growing  bulbs,  and  it 
holes  are  seen  in  the  soil  they  should  at  once  be 
examined,  and  if  the  bulbs  are  not  stolen  fill 
up  the  holes  forthwith,  using  a  light  compost, 
but  do  not  unduly  press  it  down,  else  the  sprout- 
ing bulb  will  probably  be  injured. 

Protecting  Roses. — Some  of  the  more  tender 
varieties  of  Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  Roses  growing 
in  town  gardens  should  have  some  protection 
from  very  severe  frosts.  Over  the  roots  place  a 
layer  of  half-rotted  manure  and  some  clean  litter 
around  the  lower  part  of  the  stems.  The 
mulching  of  the  roots  must  not  be  delayed,  but 
the  protection  of  the  stems  need  not  be  done 
until  the  commencement  of  a  severe  frost. 

Border  Carnations. — In  some  districts  in 
towns  it  is  a  very  difficult  matter  to  grow  choice 
border  Carnations  successfully,  but  the  owners 
of  these  gardens  love  Carnations  and  wish  to  have 
them  in  the  borders.  To  people  who  have  a 
number  of  young  plants  growing  in  pots  and 
boxes,  I  w'ould  say  :  Place  them  in  a  sheltered 
corner,  but  not  under  any  trees  ;  surround  the 
pots  or  boxes  with  dry  ashes  and  then  fix  pliant 
rods  over  the  whole  bed  for  the  support  of  mats 
during  very  frosty  weather.  It  is  a  very  trying 
period  j  ust  now  for  these  plants  ;  keep  them  free 
from  injury  until  the  month  of  April,  and  then 
they  will  grow  freely.  The  sparrow  always  has 
his  eye  upon  the  tender  "grass"  of  Carnations 
and  Pinks,  and  very  soon  does  much  damage 
to  the  plants  where  the  latter  are  unprotected. 
In  country  towns  soot  may  be  freely  scattered 
on  the  leaves  while  they  are  moist,  and  as 
sparrows  dislike  soot  they  will  not  touch  foliage 
smeared  with  it ;  but  in  large  towns  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  put  on  too  much  soot,  as  the  soil 
generally  is,  to  a  great  extent,  impregnated  with 
it.  Fasten  strands  of  black  threaB  to  small 
sticks  in  such  a  manner  that  the  birds  cannot  get 
at  the  foliage  without  coming  into  contact  with 
the  strands.  Old  plants  of  both  Carnations  and 
Pinks  harbour  slugs  and  various  kinds  of  drift, 
such  as  leaves  and  bits  of  stick,  and  they  should 
be  lifted  up,  all  foreign  material  cleared  away, 
and,  in  particular,  destroy  the  slugs.       Avon. 


46 


THE     GARDEN. 


[January  23,  1909- 


GARDENING     OF    THE 
WEEK. 

FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

SUMMER  -  FLOWERING  CHRYSAN- 
THEMUMS.—These  make  a  fine  show 
in  the  borders  at  a  time  when  other 
flowers  are  almost  past.  Our  first  batch 
is  already  rooted,  but  there  is  ample 
time  to  strike  more  and  grow  them  into 
nice  flowering  plants  by  September  and  onwards. 
Hollyhocks. — Plants  raised  from  seed  sown  on 
a  south  border  last  June,  and  which  are  being 
wintered  in  cold  frames,  should  be  given  plenty 
of  ventilation  and  any  dead  leaves  removed.  If 
planted  out  in  March  in  a  well-prepared  soil, 
such  specimens  ought  to  produce  fine  flowers 
during  the  coming  summer.  If  seed  is  sown  at 
the  present  time  in  heat  and  well  attended  to,  the 
plants  sometimes  bloom  by  the  end  of  the  season 
sufficiently  to  reveal  their  colours. 

SeecU  may  now  be  sown  of  Antirrhinums, 
Lobelia  cardinalis,  Verbena  venosa,  Cannaa, 
Grevillea  robusta,  Acacia  lophantha  and  other 
plants  required  for  bedding  during  the  coming 
summer.  Use  plenty  of  sand  with  the  soil  and 
stand  the  seed-pans  in  a  warm  temperature.  Do 
not  sow  the  smaller  seeds  too  deeply. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Prune  Orchard  Trees  if  not  done.  The  heads 
should  bo  kept  well  thinned  to  admit  light  and 
sun  to  the  interior  of  the  trees.  If  they  have 
been  much  neglected,  do  not  be  too  severe  at 
first.  Remove  moss  and  dust  the  branches  well 
with  quicklime  early  in  the  day  when  the  wood 
is  damp,  or  spray  the  trees  with  a  solution  of 
caustic  soda,  obtainable  from  any  horticultural 
sundriesman  with  full  directions.  Put  in  Goose- 
berry and  Black  and  Red  Currant  cuttings. 

Pears  and  Plums  on  walls  or  espaliers  which 
may  be  crowded  with  long,  unsightly  spurs 
should  have  a  few  out  away  each  year.  If  cut 
to  within  1  inch  of  the  main  branches,  new  buds 
quickly  form  and  grow  into  fruiting  wood,  the 
fruits  being,  as  a  rule,  more  clean  and  of  better 
size  and  quality. 

Oraftini). — Head  back  trees  intended  for 
grafting ;  standards  should  be  shortened  more 
or  less  according  to  the  size  of  the  branches,  and 
from  1  foot  to  2  feet  from  the  trunk  is  about  the 
length  to  leave.  Select  stout  young  shoots  of 
suitable  varieties  and  heel  them  in  under  a  north 
wall  till  the  right  time  for  grafting  arrives. 

Veoetable  Garden. 

Peas. — As  soon  as  the  land  is  in  a  fit  state  a 
sowing  of  some  of  the  round-seeded  early  varie- 
ties may  be  made  in  the  open  ;  but  sow  the 
wrinkled  early  varieties  in  pots  and  stand  them 
on  shelves  in  a  newly-started  vinery  or  Peach 
house  to  give  them  a  start.  Also  make  a  sowing 
of  Broad  Beans  Early  Longpod  or  Early 
Mazagan.  I  generally  sow  my  first  lot  between 
William  I.  Peas,  and  the  shelter  from  the  Pea- 
sticks  helps  to  forward  the  crop. 

Cauliflowers  wintered  under  hand-lights  and 
in  cold  frames  need  ample  ventilation  to  en- 
courage sturdy  growth.  Make  a  sowing  of  the 
Early  Snowball  or  Erfurt  in  pans  and  hasten 
them  along  in  suitable  warmth.  Lettuce  of 
suitable  varieties  may  be  similarly  treated,  also 
Parsley,  Leeks  and  Ailsa  Craig  Onions.  Pre- 
pare leaves  ana  litter  for  making  up  hot-beds 
for  sowing  Carrots,  early  Turnips  and  early 
Potatoes.  The  material  should  be  turned  twice 
before  making  up  the  beds,  which  must  be  very 
firm.  Stand  on  their  ends  (in  shallow  boxes)  the 
sets  of  some  very  reliable  varieties  of  Potatoes 
to  sprout  ready  for  planting  in  frames  or  pots. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardetu,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE   NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Department. 

Late  Vineries. — Grapes  still  hanging  upon  the 
Vines  should,  as  soon  as  possible,  be  cut,  as, 
apart  from  relieving  the  Vines  of  needless  strain 
upon  their  resources,  it  allows  of  cool  treat- 
ment and  complete  rest  for  a  few  weeks. 
During  inclement  weather  pruning  and  clean- 
ing the  rods  may  then  be  carried  out,  while 
thoroughly  washing  the  glass  and  woodwork 
and  lime-washing  or  similarly  purifying  all 
wall  surfaces  should  not  be  neglected.  In  clean- 
ing the  Vines,  rubbing  off  the  loose  bark  by  hand 
and  afterwards  scrubbing  around  the  spurs  with 
a  moderately  stiff  brush,  using  strong  soap  and 
water  as  a  liquid,  usually  suffices.  If  mealy  bug 
has  by  chance  obtained  a  footing  and  the  spurs 
are  somewhat  lengthy,  Gishurst  Compound, 
worked  to  a  paste-like  consistency  and  used  to 
stop  all  holes  and  crevices  is  a  safe  and  certain 
remedy.  Vines  pnmed  after  this  date  should, 
as  a  precaution  against  bleeding,  have  the  spurs 
where  severed  dressed  with  styptic,  an  operation 
soon  accomplished  and  one  that  may  save  much 
annoyance  later  on. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines.  — Trees  in  bloom  should 
be  attended  to  daily,  but  more  especially  when 
the  weather  is  bright,  and  have  a  soft  brush 
passed  lightly  from  flower  to  flower  to  ensure 
fertilisation.  If  the  border  was  well  watered 
before  the  house  was  started,  little  further 
will  be  required  until  the  fruit  is  set ;  but  if, 
owing  to  shallow  borders  or  a  very  porous  rooting 
medium,  dryness  at  the  roots  is  apprehended, 
advantage  should  be  taken  of  a  favourable  day  to 
correct  this,  when  by  slight  admission  of  air  and 
extra  warmth  in  the  pipes  atmospheric  buoyancy 
is  created.  Pruning,  cleaning  and  training  in 
succession  houses  may  be  undertaken  at  con- 
venience, and  if  mildew  or  red  spider  has  in  the 
past  been  prevalent,  a  mixture  of  sulphur  and 
soot  applied  where  possible  to  the  stems  and 
branches  with  a  brush  will  have  a  good  effect. 

Plants  undee  Glass. 

The  recent  change  in  the  weather  has  very 
considerably  lowered  temperatures  all  round,  and 
rather  than  attempt  to  maintain  these  by  means 
of  excessive  heat  in  the  pipes  to  the  standard  that 
was  with  ease  accomplished  a  short  time  ago,  a 
considerable  reduction,  compatible  with  the  safety 
of  the  plants,  is  preferable.  For  the  majority  of 
heat-loving  plants  a  night  temperature  of  60' 
with  a  slight  rise  during  the  day,  if  from  fire- 
heat  alone,  is  ample,  regulating  the  moisture 
used  both  for  watering  and  damping  accordingly. 
This  rule  holds  good  in  the  same  ratio  in  respect 
to  cooler  structures,  as  time  thus  lost,  if  any,  is 
quickly  regained  afterwards  with  lengthening 
days  and  increasing  solar  heat.  For  some  time 
to  come  watering  should  be  carefully  performed. 

Plants  arul  Seeds. — Plants  in  small  pots  rooted 
in  autumn,  such  as  Crotons,  Draoaanas,  Panda- 
nuses  and  others  familiarly  known  as  table 
plants,  may  now  be  ready  for  repotting ;  the 
same  applies  to  Cyclamen  and  Tomatoes  raised 
from  seed,  none  of  which  should  be  allowed  to 
become  really  root-bound  before  this  is  done, 
otherwise  any  disturbance  of  larger  subjects  had 
better  be  deferred  until  next  month.  In  the 
meantime  materials  may  be  procured,  prepared 
and  held  in  readiness. 

Fruit  Stores. 
Orapes  recently  taken  to  the  store-room  must 
have  the  bunches  inspected  and  all  bad  berries 
removed  occasionally,  and  this  is  usually  more 
important  immediately  after  their  removal 
thereto  than  later  on.  Apples  in  northern  parts 
are  at  present  very  disappointing  in  respect  to 
keeping  qualities,  as  great  numbers  that  but  a 
short  time  ago  were  apparently  sound  are  now 
badly  spotted  and  decayed.  If  in  bulk,  the 
heaps  should  be  frequently  turned,  placing  those 
that  are  sound  aside  and  using  at  once  all  others 


that  show  signs  of  unsoundness.    Pears  in  general 
have  ripened  out  of  season,  consequently  fruits 
of  these  are  not  plentiful.     Varieties  that  ripen 
after  this  time  are  often  improved  in  flavour  and 
texture  by  being  placed  in  slight  warmth  for  a 
few  days  previous  to  being  sent  to  the  table. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 
Oalloway  Hov.se,  Garlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Cattleya  percivaliana  Charlbsworth's 
variet\'. — This  is  a  very  handsome  form  of  a 
distinct  and  comparatively  little-known  Orchid. 
The  sepals  and  petals  are  pure  white  and  of  the 
usual  shape  and  size,  the  rather  small  labellum 
having  a  rich  crimson  blotch  surrounded  by 
purple  at  the  base,  this  in  turn  being  margined 
with  pure  white  and  much  crimped.  The  throat 
is  very  rich  yellow,  this  being  suffused  through 
to  the  outside,  the  colour  combination  being  very 
remarkable.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Charlesworth 
and  Co.,  Hay  ward's  Heath,  Sussex.  First-class 
certificate. 

Cattleya  Maqgie  Raphael  Westonbirt  variety. — 
In  spite  of  its  most  unwieldy  name,  this  is  a 
very  chaste-looking  flower  of  medium  size  and 
apparently  robust  constitution.  The  lanceolate 
sepals  are  rather  pale  rosy  mauve  in  colour,  this 
shading  off  to  almost  white  at  the  tips,  the 
broad,  much-crimped  petals  being  a  rather  richer 
shade  of  the  same  colour.  The  labellum  is,  how- 
ever, the  most  beautiful  portion,  this  being  very 
rich  carmine  with  deep  yellow  venations  in  the 
throat.     The  plant  shown  had  one  flower  only. 

Vanda  Watsonii. — This  is  a  graceful-looking 
plant,  producing  large,  rather  loose  racemes  of 
medium-sized  white  flowers  with  a  blotch  of 
yellow  on  the  cushion.  The  narrow,  drooping 
leaves  and  aerial  roots  lend  an  additional  charm 
to  this  plant.  Both  the  above  were  shown  by 
Lieutenant-Colonel  G.  L.  Holford,  C.  I.  E. ,  C.  V.  0. , 
Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire,  and  each 
received  an  award  of  merit. 

Odontoglossum  ardentissimum  Norman  Cookson. 
This  is  another  beautiful  addition  to  the  Odonto- 
glossums,  although  it  resembles  to  some  extent 
others  that  were  shown  and  received  awards  last 
year.  The  flowers  are  of  medium  size,  perfect 
shape  and  exquisite  markings.  The  ground 
colour  of  the  sepals  and  petals  is  brownish 
purple,  this  being  distinctly  edged  with  pure 
white.  The  small  labellum  has  a  blotch  of 
brownish  crimson  at  its  baBe,  this  being  mar- 
gined with  a  broader  band  of  white  than  are  the 
sepals  and  petals.  Shown  by  N.  C.  Cookson, 
Esq.     Award  of  merit. 

Begonia  Patrie.  —  A  new  winter-flowering 
variety  which  has  resulted  from  the  crossing  of 
B.  soootrana  and  B.  Pearcei  variety,  the  former 
being  the  seed  parent.  The  new-comer  is  of  a 
very  dwarf,  compact  habit,  not  more  than 
8  inches  or  9  inches  high,  and  with  medium-sized 
flowers  of  a  coppery  red  shade,  very  freely  pro- 
duced. The  variety  is  quite  distinct  from  such 
as  B.  Agatha  and  others  raised  by  Messrs.  Veitoh 
and  Sons,  and  is  notable  rather  for  its  sturdy  and 
compact  habit  and  profuse  flowering  than  for 
size  or  brilliant  colouring.  Should  the  variety 
prove  to  be  a  free  seeder,  which  is  unusual  in 
these  winter-flowering  types,  it  may  prove  of 
value  to  the  hybridist.  Exhibited  by  M. 
Lemoine,  Nancy.     Award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  Maud  Allan. — A  pure  white 
narrow-petalled  decorative  varietj'  of  obvious 
merit  for  late  work.  Possessed  of  considerable 
freedom  of  flowering  and  producing  its  flower- 
heads  in  sprays  on  long  stems,  it  will  doubtless 
be  much  sought  after  by  florist  and  gardener 
alike  who  require  such  things  so  long  as  they 
are  available  in  good  condition.  Shown  by  Mr. 
N.  Molyneux,  Wickham.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  12th  inst. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


January  23,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


47 


SPRING      WORK      IN      THE 
HERBACEOUS     BORDER. 

1  THINK  now,  when  all  enthusiastic 
gardeners  are  planning  alterations  and 
renovations  in  their  herbaceous  borders,  a 
few  words  might  be  interesting.  Last 
summer  the  stock  plants  became  over- 
grown and  unruly,  and  the  consequence 
was  that  when  in  the  autumn  I  began  to 
look  to  the  borders  I  found  I  had  more  to  do 
than  I  bargained  for.  I  have  now  had  such  a 
lesson  against  delaying  the  work  in  the  borders 
that  I  have  determined  to  have  no  late-flowering, 
rank -growing  plants  like  Michaelmas  Daisies  at 
all  in  the  borders,  but  to  relegate  these  useful 
things  for  late  cuttings  to  the  store  garden  so  as 
to  be  able  to  rearrange  the  borders  not  later  than 
October.  Some  of  the  Michaelmas  Daisies  do 
not  bloom  until  November,  and  I  hate  destroying 
anything  before  I  have  harvested  the  flowers, 
and  the  Star  Asters  are  too  charming  to  be 
foregone  altogether. 

It  is  said  when  an  actor  gets  ,a  night  off  he 
invariably  goes  to  a  theatre,  so  when  I  tear 
myself  away  from  my  own  garden  my  one  idea 
is  to  visit  others.  In  my  wanderings  last  summer 
I  found  that  colour  schemes  for  the  bedding  of 
herbaceous  borders  are  fast  gaining  ground,  and 
I  fancy  the  promiscuous  mixing  of  all  kinds  and 
colours  of  plants  will  soon  be  a  thing  of  the  past. 
Indeed,  I  am  sorry  to  say  I  see  tlie  ribbon 
gardening  of  1870,  as  described  by  Mr.  Glenny, 
looming  within  measurable  distance. 

Professional  gardeners  have  always  had  a 
hankering  after  this  form  of  decorative  gardening, 
and  many  have  clung  fondly  to  the  combination 
of  scarlet  Geranium,  Calceolaria  and  dwarf 
Lobelia  dear  to  the  hearts  of  the  last  generation. 
However,  there  is  one  comfort,  that  it  will  be 
impossible  for  any  but  the  wealthy  to  carry  out 
this  fashion  owing  to  the  want  of  greenhouse 
room  for  the  store  of  half-hardy  plants  neces- 
sary and  the  labour  that  the  planting  entails,  so 
may  still  hope  to  preserve  our  cottage  gardens  in 
their  simpler  form  of  artistic  beauty. 

However,  I  can  see  that  a  great  deal  can  be 
done  to  produce  better  and  stronger  effects  by 
the  judicious  mixing  of  a  sequence  of  harmonious 
colours,  and  I  am  now  devoting  myself  to  various 
experiments,  trying  to  keep  to  quite  simple 
arrangements  within  the  means  of  all  who  love 
gardening  for  gardening's  sake. 

A  pleasing  variety  of  flowers  arranged  for 
effective  colouring  can  be  ensured  by  the 
following  little  colour  scheme,  which  is  very 
easy  to  carry  out  if  the  border  does  not  exceed 
6  feet  in  width  and  is  backed  as  mine  is  with  a 
Laurel  hedge.  The  colour  blocks  can  be  repeated 
according  to  the  length  of  the  border,  changing 
the  kinds  of  flowers.  I  began  by  dividing  a 
portion  of  the  border  into  six  blocks  and 
arranged  the  colours  in  the  following  sequence  : 
Red,  white,  pink,  blue,  yellow  and  mauve.  At 
the  back  of  the  red  block  I  planted  a  group 
of  herbaceous  Poppies,  and  as  these  flower 
early  and  are  cut  down,  I  placed  round  them 
good  clumps  of  scarlet  Lychnis  and  sowed 
thinly  double  scarlet  Poppy.  Next  I  planted 
Delphinium  nudicaule,  Monarda  didyma,  and 
left  spaces  where  I  shall  plant  Gladiolus 
brenchleyensis  for  an  autumn  display,  and  in 
the  late  spring  Lobelia  cardinalis  will  go  in. 
Towards  the  foreground  is  Sutton's  Scarlet 
Sweet  William,  and  I  am  sowing  the  annuals 
Linum  grandiflora  rubrum,  Sutton's  Crimson 
King,  Godetia,  Jacobtea,  and  scarlet  dwarf 
Tropaeolums  and  Alonsoa.  In  front  I  have 
planted  a  border  of  crimson  double  Daisy,  which 
makes  a  neat,  effective  finish  against  the  wide 
turf  edge.  For  the  next  block,  white,  I  have  a 
little  crowd  of  double  white  Hollyhocks  at  the 
back,  and  work  down  with  white  Phloxes  and 
some  of  the  new  giant  Daisies,  Mallow  and 
Canterbury  Bells.  For  white  annuals  you  can- 
not   improve    on   Godetia  Duchess    of    Albany 


(sown  thin  and  well  thinned  out  later),  Candy- 
tuft and  Asters  to  prick  out  by  and  by.  White 
double  Daisies  finish  the  block  next  the  grass, 
with  good  clumps  of  the  charming  white  Prim- 
rose now  in  full  flower. 

In  my  pink  block  I  was  fortunate  enough  to 
be  able  to  utilise,  without  moving  it,  a  large 
clump  of  pink  Paionies,  which  is  in  the  centre.  I 
have  put  double  pink  Hollyhocks  at  the  back, 
which  I  have  varied  with  Sweet  Peas— Queen  of 
Spain  ;  these  will  be  carefully  staked,  and  as  I 
wish  to  be  extra  cleanly  I  shall  give  the  Hazel 
branches  a  coat  of  green  paint  so  as  to  make  the 
staking  less  aggressive.  Sweet  William  Pink 
Beauty,  j^lenty  of  it,  fills  a  forward  place,  and 
some  double  Pyrethrums.  Plenty  of  satin  rose 
Godetia  to  take  the  place  of  the  short-blooming 
Canterbury  Bells  and  rose  Nemesia,  Rose  Mallow 
and  Silene  pendula,  pink  Daisies  for  the  front 
and  my  pink  block  is  completed. 

The  blue  block  is  a  little  more  difficult,  though 
we  have  the  beautiful  Delphiniums  to  mass  at 
the  back,  and  the  somewhat  coarse  Anchusa 
(Dropmore  variety),  Polemonium  e:eruleum  to- 
wards the  centre,  and  heaps  of  blue  annuals — 
Miss  Jekyll's  Nigella  (sow  thin),  Nemophila 
insignis,  Phacelia  campanularia,  and  a  nice  thick 
edge  of  Forget-me-nots  coming  into  bloom  and 
Veronica  prostrata.  I  have  also  ventured  in 
blue  Primroses  ;  mine  are  really  blue,  given  me 
by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society.  For  the 
yellow  section,  double  yellow  Hollyhocks  at  tlie 
back,  Trollius,  Coreopsis  grandiflora,  yellow 
Wallflower,  yellow  Antirrhinum  (to  be  put  out 
shortly),  Iceland  Poppies,  Aquilegia  clirysantha, 
and  a  nice  lot  of  yellow  Carnations  for  July  ; 
Violas  for  the  edge. 

For  the  mauve  block,  again  Hollyhocks, 
Phloxes,  Erigeron  speciosum,  verbenas.  Stocks, 
Asters  (Purple  Queen),  Wallflowers  and  Canter- 
bury Bells,  and  I  have  finished  with  a  border  of 
mauve  single  Primroses,  dwarf  Phloxes  and 
Aubrietia ;  for  annuals,  Candytuft  and  Clary 
and  Asters  will  give  you  perpetual  flowers. 

Now  for  a  valuable  hint.  I  anticipate  a  good 
deal  of  trouble  with  snails  and  slugs  this 
season,  owing  to  the  damp  of  last  summer  and 
the  want  of  sunshine  this  spring.  When  you 
sow  your  annuals  give  the  soil  a  slight  sprink- 
ling with  Sanitas  Powder,  and  use  it  again 
when  the  little  seedlings  begin  to  appear.  It  is 
the  best  slugicide  ever  dreamt  of,  though  not 
intended  for  that  pi'.rpose,  and  it  is  also  a  perfect 
preventive  against  the  depredations  of  sparrows 
and  mice.  It  must,  of  course,  be  renewed  after 
heavy  rain.  It  is  perfectly  harmless  to  plant 
life.  A.  DE  Lacy  Lacy. 


Clepodendpon    fallax.— rnis    is   one 

of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  shrubby  Clero- 
dendrons  and  easily  grown.  Its  large  heads 
of  bright  red  flowers  are  very  effective  for 
grouping  and  other  decorations  during  the 
autumn  montlis.  Although  it  may  be  propa- 
gated from  cuttings,  I  think  the  best  plants  are 
usually  raised  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown 
thinly  in  pans  in  early  spring  and  placed  in  a 
temperature  of  70°,  where  it  will  readily  germi- 
nate. When  the  seedlings  have  made  two  or 
three  leaves,  pot  them  into  3-inoh  pots,  using 
loam,  leaf-soil  and  a  little  coarse  sand,  and  place 
them  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass.  Keep  them 
growing  in  a  brisk  stove  temperature,  repotting 
them  when  ready  into  4|-inch  pots  in  a  mixture 
of  loam,  leaf-soil,  a  little  spent  Mushroom  bed 
manure  and  coarse  sand.  A  little  finely-crushed 
bone  will  also  be  of  benefit.  Grow  them  on  in 
the  same  brisk  temperature  till  the  flowers 
appear,  when  a  slightly  lower  temperature  and 
less  atmospheric  moisture  will  suffice.  When 
the  pots  are  filled  with  roots  and  the  flowers  are 
developing  the  plants  will  need  plenty  of  stimu- 
lants. Early  in  the  following  year  the  plants 
may  be  cut  back,  the  roots  slightly  shaken  out 
and  repotted,  placing  three  plants  in  an  8-inch 
pot.  Use  the  same  mixture  as  before,  but  in  a 
rougher  state. — E.  H.,  Frogmore. 


ANSWERS 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS. 

RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  AnswePS.— TA^;  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  710  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  tnay 
he,  and  with  that  object  ivill  make  a  special  featxtre  of  the 
"  Ansivers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions shouhi  he  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  he  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  design-ation  he  may  desire  to  he  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  shoxild 
he  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 
Ppecocious    Leucojum    sestivum 

((?.  E.). — In  all  probability  your  Leucojum  bulbs 
were  those  of  the  ordinary  form  of  Leucojum 
ajstivum  (the  Summer  Snowflake)  and  will  not 
bloom  until  May.  If  the  precocious  form,  they 
should  have  been  showing  bloom  before  this  time. 
The  Summer  Snowflake  is  a  plant  which  should 
have  a  moister  position  than  that  you  have 
given  it,  and  it  thrives  admirably  as  a  semi- 
aquatic  with  the  water  about  6  inches  deep. 
Here  it  both  flowers  better  and  looks  more 
pleasing  than  in  dry  ground. 

Plants  for  small  roekepy  (L.  w. 

Birch). — You  unfortunately  omit  the  extent  of 
the  arrangement,  which  would  have  been  helpful. 
What  might  prove  most  serviceable,  too,  depends 
not  a  little  upon  the  method  of  construction  ; 
and,  in  the  absence  of  these  important  particu- 
lars, we  can  only  give  you  a  list  of  plants  for 
generfil  guidance.  You  say  nothing  as  to  the  soil, 
which  is  also  important.  The  following,  how- 
ever, are  all  good  and  useful  subjects :  Cam- 
panula pumila,  C.  p.  alba,  C.  puUa,  C.  Raineri, 
C.  G.  F.  Wilson,  C.  garganioa,  C.  g.  alba,  any  of 
the  silvery  or  encrusted  Saxifragas,  as,  e.g.,  S. 
Hostii,  S.  valdensis,  S.  elatior,  S.  macnabiana, 
S.  cochlearis,  S.  pyramidalis,  S.  Aizoon  in  many 
varieties,  S.  apioulata,  S.  burseriana,  S.  sancta, 
S.  longifolia  and  others.  You  might  add  such  as 
S.  Guildford  Seedling,  S.  musooides  atropur- 
purea,  S.  densa  and  otliers  of  the  mossy  section. 
Other  useful  subjects  are  the  alpine  Phloxes, 
alpine  Pinks,  Silenes,  Androsace  sarmentosa,  A. 
lanuginosa,  Aquilegia  Stuartii,  A.  oaerulea, 
Arnebia  echioides,  Sedum  spectabile.  Primula 
marginata,  Polygonum  Brunonis,  P.  vaocini- 
folium,  Achillea  umbellata,  A.  Clavennas,  A. 
Huteri,  Saponaria  ocymoides,  S.  o.  alba  and 
Erigeron  aurantiaous.  It  is  not  always  the 
extent  of  a  rookery  so  much  as  its  diversified 
and  varying  aspects  that  permit  of  the  greatest 
variety  of  plants  being  employed,  and  which 
adds  greatly  to  its  interest. 

Information  about  Liliums  (E.tcel- 
sior). — You  might  possibly  obtain  home-grown 
bulbs  of  Lilium  auratum  from  such  bulb  specialists 
as  Messrs.  Wallace  and  Co.,  Colchester,  and,  if 
obtainable,  these  are  to  be  preferred.  They  are, 
however,  by  no  means  plentiful  and  may  be  quite 
a  rarity.  Regarded  as  a  whole,  L.  auratum  is 
not  the  best  for  you  to  plant,  and  L.  a.  platy- 
phyllum  would  be  better.  At  the  same  time, 
none  of  the  auratums  are  good  for  a  permanent 
group,  the  one  just  named  being  both  the  bDldest 
and  the  best.  Of  far  greater  value  for  permanent 
groups  are  the  varieties  of  L.  speciosum,  of  which 
L.  s.  rubrum,  L,  s.  cruentum  and  L.  s.  Melpo- 
mene are  the  best,  with  L.  s.  album  as  a  white- 
flowered  variety.  Other  good  sorts  are  L.  Henryii, 
L.  Hansonii,  L.  tigrinum  Fortunei  and,  if  you 
can  command  free  supplies  of  moisture,  L. 
pardalinum.  These  are,  as  a  rule,  reliable  and 
increase  from  year  to  year,  while  affording  a  long 
season  of  flowering  and  much  colour  variety  also. 
Plant  the  bulbs  6  inches  deep  in  well-dug  and 


48 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  23,  1909. 


moderately  rich  sandy  soil,  giving  them  a  fair 
amount  of  air  about  the  base.  Avoid  close  or 
crowded  groups  when  planting  and  allow 
10  inches  between  the  bulbs.  All  the  varieties 
of  L.  speoiosum  prefer  soil  of  a  loamy  character 
well  enriched  with  manure. 

Ideas  for  hepbaceous  bopdep 

( Wariderer).  — In  a  border  of  the  width  you  name 
there  would  be  room  for  four  rows  of  groups 
acting  in  the  main  as  principals,  with  smaller 
groups  of  plants  occasionally,  according  to  the 
subjects  around,  intervening.  You  do  not  give 
the  position  of  the  border,  whether,  for  example, 
it  is  in  front  of  a  wall  or  a  belt  of  shrubs  ;  but, 
taking  it  for  granted  that  it  would  have  to  be 
arranged  with  the  taller  plants  behind,  you  might 
in  the  back  row  arrange  the  perennial  Sunflowers, 
tall  Michaelmas  Daisies,  perennial  Pea,  Kni- 
phofias,  Hollyhocks,  Heieniums,  &c.  The  next 
line  of  groups  should  for  the  most  part,  but  not 
of  necessity  always,  alternate  with  the  groups  in 
the  first  row,  and  be  made  up  of  Phloxes,  Lark- 
spurs, Campanulas,  Pfeonies,  dwarfer  Michaelmas 
Daisies,  Liatris,  with  tall-growing  Lilies  and,  if 
it  suited  your  views,  poles  covered  with  the 
climbing  Cluster  Roses,  Clematises  and  so  forth. 
The  next  set  of  groups  should  be  of  Globe 
Flowers,  dwarfer-growing  Phloxes  and  Lark- 
spurs, Flag  and  other  Irises,  Lilies,  Incarvilleas, 
Montbretias,  Heueheras,  Heieniums,  Aster 
Amellus  and  others  ;  and  in  the  front  row 
of  groups  Megaseaa,  Christmas  and  Lenten 
Roses,  dwarf  Campanulas,  Pinks,  Sedum  specta- 
bile,  Primula  japonica,  P.  rosea  and  others. 
Daffodils  and  other  bulbous  plants  could  enter 
here  and  materially  enhance  and  prolong  the 
flowering  season.  The  general  idea  should  be 
that  of  well-disposed  groups,  each  group  consist- 
ing of  three,  five  or,  in  a  few  instances,  a  dozen 
plants  that,  when  grown,  would  be  devoid  of  all 
formality  and  make  an  imposing  display.  The 
arrangement  of  the  plants  would  require  some 
skill  and  a  good  knowledge  of  the  subjects,  but, 
well  arranged,  so  large  a  border  would  be  a  feature 
in  any  garden. 

Half-a-dozen  Sweet  Peas  (£.  B.).~Of  the 
varieties  named  iu  your  letter  we  advise  Etta  Dyke, 
Countess  Spencer,  Audrey  Crier,  Lady  Orizel  Hamilton, 
King  Edward  Spencer  and  Black  Knight.  Possibly  a  better 
get  would  be  Etta  Dyke,  Evelyn  Hemus,  John  Ingman, 
Clara  Curtis,  Countess  Spencer  and  The  King.  Plant  in 
clumps  of  four,  and  draw  out  the  stems  carefully  so  as  to 
afford  all  an  abundance  of  space. 

Kainlt  fop  Sweet  Peas  (.P.  D.).— Yes,  this  is 
undoubtedly  good  for  Sweet  Peas,  especially  when  the 
application  Is  made  in  the  autumn..  As  you  have  not 
yet  prepared  your  ground,  we  advise  the  use  of  sul- 
phate of  potash  in  preference,  as  it  yields  a  larger 
amount  of  potassic  food.  A  suitable  mixture  for  working 
in  early  in  February  consists  of  five  parts  of  super- 
phosphate, three  parts  of  sulphate  of  potash  and  two 
parts  each  of  nitrate  of  soda  and  sulphate  of  ammonia, 
applying  3oz.  to  the  square  yard.  This  would  be  as  a 
supplement  to  natural  manures. 

Violet  culture  fop  market  (Alpha).— Before 
setting  up  as  a  market  grower,  have  you  considered  the 
possibility  of  securing  a  good  fairly  local  market  for  your 
produce  V  You  mention  Chrysanthemums  and  Cucumbers ; 
but  whatever  may  be  the  supplies  in  your  part  of  the 
country,  certainly  in  and  about  London  the  market  is 
flooded  with  these  things,  and  generally  they  can  be 
purchased  at  very  low  prices.  Rather  than  grow 
Cucumbers  we  should  advise  you  to  grow  Tomatoes, 
as  good  fruit  always  secures  a  fair  price,  and,  except  in 
early  spring  or  to  keep  late-raised  plants  fruiting  from 
October  to  Christmas,  no  heat  is  required.  Cucumbers 
must  have  warmth  constantly  maintained.  With  respect 
to  Violets,  you  presumably  purpose  growing  the  large 
single  Princess  of  Wales  or  some  others  like  it,  and  the 
fine  double  De  Parme  or  Marie  Louise.  These  are  easily 
raised  as  plants  if  in  the  autumn  you  cut  from  strong 
plants  the  fine  side  runners  they  make  and  put  these 
fairly  close  together  in  sharp  sandy  soil  in  a  frame  with 
their  bottom  ends  buried  about  1  inch  deep.  Early  in 
April  most  of  these  would  have  rooted.  They  should  then 
be  lifted  and  dibbled  out  singly  or  iu  couples  on  to  ground 
that  has  been  well  manured  and  deeply  dug,  putting 
them  in  12  inches  apart  each  way.  If  kept  well  hoed, 
these  pieces  will  make  sturdy  plants  by  October.  Then  to 
have  bloom  all  the  winter  you  must  have  warmth,  either 
in  frames  by  means  of  hot-water  pipes  or  by  hot-beds  of 
stable  manure  and  tree  leaves,  well  mixed  and  prepared 
by  having  two  or  three  turnings,  with  dampings  to  render 
the  heat  enduring.  Commencing  in  November,  a  succession 
of  such  hot-beds  and  frames  would  be  needed,  these  being 
filled  with  plants  from  the  open  ground,  put  rather  close 
together,  as  fast  as  frames  are  ready.    Later  in  the  winter 


some  frames  might  be  flUed  without  heat  to  bring  flowers 
on  more  naturally.  Once  a  good  stock  of  plants  is  obtained 
a  good  succession  from  year  to  year  is  easily  maintained. 
Violets  in  hot  weather  need  liberal  overhead  waterings. 
The  frames  should  be  what  are  called  span,  lifting  up 
each  side,  6  feet  wide  and  the  same  long,  giving  :j(i  square 
feet  area  to  each. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Climbep  fop  tpellis  fence  ( W.  M.  T.). 
The  common  Clematis  (C.  Vitalba)  would  thrive 
well  on  your  fence.  It  is  not,  of  course,  very 
showy,  but  it  is  a  strong  grower  and  will  thrive 
in  partial  shade.  The  one  you  mention  is  C. 
Jackmanii.  It  will  most  likely  thrive  and  flower 
well  if  you  give  it  a  position  where  it  will  not 
be  too  heavily  shaded.  For  very  shady  places 
you  cannot  do  better  than  plant  the  common  Ivy. 
Some  of  the  stronger  -  growing  Roses  will 
probably  thrive,  such  as  the  Ayrshire  Rose, 
Rosa  multiflora  and  some  of  the  wichuraiana 
Roses.  Work  the  ground  well  previous  to 
planting,  and  give  good  soil  so  that  the  plants 
will  get  a  good  start. 

To  make  a  Lavendep  hedg:e  (L.G.). 

To  form  a  hedge  of  Lavender  dig  the  ground  to 
a  depth  of  18  inches,  then  select  nice  bushy 
plants  one  to  two  years  old,  and  plant  them 
H  feet  apart,  that  distance  to  be  between  the 
stems,  not  the  outside  of  the  branches.  It  will 
be  advisable,  now  that  the  season  is  so  far 
advanced,  to  defer  the  work  until  February.  As 
soon  as  planted,  water  the  plants  in  and  see 
that  they  are  kept  watered  occasionally  until 
established.  The  after-treatment  consists  of 
cutting  the  old  flower-stalks  back  to  the  young 
shoots  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are  over,  and  giving 
a  top-dressing  of  well-rotted  manure  every  second 
year.  If  you  want  a  specially  wide  hedge  you 
may  plant  a  double  row,  the  plants  of  the  second 
row  being  placed  alternately  with  those  in  the 
first. 
Name  and  Infopmation  about  a 

ShPUb  (Mias  Champemowne). — The  shrub  you 
send  is  Photinia  serrulata,  a  Chinese  plant.  It 
forms  an  excellent  evergreen  for  the  southern 
and  milder  counties,  but  does  not  prove  satis- 
fictory  in  cold  districts.  It  likes  a  position 
exposed  to  the  south  or  west  and  should  have  a 
little  protection  from  the  coldest  winds.  The 
flowers  are  in  panicles,  white,  but  not  very 
showy  ;  in  fact,  it  is  not  worthy  of  much  con- 
sideration for  the  sake  of  its  flowers.  It  is 
increased  by  seeds  or  by  layered  branches  ; 
cuttings  do  not  root  easily,  and  it  is  rarely 
increased  by  such.  If,  however,  you  layer  a  few 
of  the  lower  branches  early  next  March,  they 
will  probably  root  in  the  course  of  a  year  or  so. 
Sometimes,  however,  it  is  advisable  to  leave 
them  two  years  before  severing  them  from  the 
parent  plant.  It  is  impossible  to  name  the  other 
specimen  without  better  material. 

Shpubs  to  peplace  Poptugal 

LaUPelS  (D.  Morris).— The  most  beautiful 
blue  or  glaucous  conifers  are  Picea  pungens 
glauoa  and  Cedrus  atlantiea  glauoa.  The  former 
is  an  extremely  beautiful  plant  where  it  thrives, 
but  it  abhors  smoke  and  has  a  habit  in  some 
gardens  of  deteriorating  after  a  few  years.  The 
Cedar  is  a  more  vigorous  plant,  and  thrives  almost 
anywhere.  Neither  of  these  trees  are  very  great 
soil  robbers.  The  False  Acacia  is  a  bad  tree  for 
robbing  the  surrounding  soil,  and  its  roots  travel 
a  long  distance.  Ginkgo  biloba  or  Salisburia 
adiantifolia  is  suitable  for  a  lawn  and  does  not 
drain  the  ground  to  any  serious  extent.  Good 
shrubs  are  Berberis  stenophylla,  Choisya  ternata, 
Escallonia  macrantha  and  Rhododendrons  in 
variety,  as  evergreens ;  and  Spirsea  arguta.  Mag- 
nolia stellata,  Prunus  japonica  fl.-pl.,  Pyrus 
floribunda  atrosanguinea,  Cytisus  andreanus, 
Ribes  sanguineum  splendens,  Diervilla  Eva 
Rathke,  Cotoneaster  rotundifolia  and  Viburnum 
plicatum  as  deciduous  shrubs.  If  you  require  a 
large-growing  evergreen,  Arbutus  Unedo  will  be 
of  service.     If  you  try  the  latter  plant,  obtain  a 


small  rather  than  a  large  specimen,  as  large  plants 
do  not  start  well. 

Ppuningp     an     EBcallonia     (.Grace 

Gardener). — You  may  prune  your  Escallonia 
fairly  hard  either  in  autumn  or  spring.  April 
is  really  best.  If  it  is  very  thick  it  may  be 
advisable  to  remove  a  branch  or  two  altogether 
and  replace  them  by  young  shoots.  The  strong 
young  shoots  you  refer  to  may  be  removed  to 
within  a  bud  or  two  of  the  base.  By  pruning  in 
spring  you  will  not  destroy  next  year's  flowers, 
as  they  are  produced  by  most  Escallonias  from 
the  current  year's  wood.  The  sample  of  soil  you 
send  appears  to  be  nice  material  to  mix  with  loam 
to  form  a  potting  compost.  As  it  was  found 
beneath  Scotch  Pines,  however,  you  had  better 
try  it  on  a  few  plants  first  instead  of  a  large 
batch,  as  rotted  Pine  needles  do  not  suit  many 
things  and  are  more  or  less  poisonous  to  some 
plants.  If  you  use  it  for  a  few  things  and  find 
that  there  are  no  ill-effects,  you  may  safely  use  it 
on  a  larger  scale.  Similar  soil  from  below 
deciduous  trees  could  be  used  for  almost  any 
kind  of  plants  without  fear. 

Infopmation  about  Azalea  indica 

(Martha). — In  your  mild  climate  Azilea  indica 
is  likely  to  thrive  under  similar  conditions  to 
ordinary  Rhododendrons.  You  had  better  select 
a  somewhat  sheltered  position  shaded  from  the 
fiercest  midday  sun  in  moist  but  well-drained 
ground.  Break  the  soil  up  well,  and  where  it  is 
heavy  add  some  sandy  material  at  planting  time. 
If  you  place  plants  out  that  have  been  in  pots 
for  a  considerable  time  and  become  pot-bound, 
you  will  have  to  be  very  careful  with  the 
watering  for  a  year  or  two.  When  watering 
allow  the  water  to  trickle  carefully  into  the  ball. 
A  good  plan  is  to  make  a  shallow  basin  of  clay 
round  the  ball  to  keep  the  water  in  the  proper 
place,  so  that  it  will  not  soak  the  ground  round 
about  and  leave  the  ball  dry.  During  planting 
operations  be  careful  to  ram  the  soil  well  round 
the  old  balls.  A  south  or  west  exposure  is 
preferable  to  a  north  or  east.  Camellias  may  be 
grown  successfully  out  of  doors.  They  succeed 
well  in  partial  shade,  and  should  be  sheltered 
from  the  east  so  that  the  early  morning  sun  will 
not  affect  the  flowers  in  the  event  of  a  frost. 
They  ought  to  thrive  excellently  in  your  soil  and 
climate. 

Pplvet  hedge  dying'  (G.  J/.).— The  Privet  has 
apparently  been  killed  by  the  fungus  Rosellinia  uecatrix, 
which  is  the  cause  of  the  white  root-rot  of  trees.  All  the 
old  roots  should  be  dug  out  and  the  soil  replaced  by  fresh, 
if  possible,  mixing  the  old  soil  with  flowers  of  sulphur  and 
powdered  lime.  Each  piece  of  root  left  in  may  become  a 
source  of  infection  of  other  plants. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Rose  Capmine  Pillap  in  pot 

{F.  A.  G.  S.). — As  the  plant  is  in  a  very  large 
pot  we  presume  it  is  a  well-developed  specimen. 
This  variety  is  one  of  those  that  require  but 
little  pruning  except  to  remove  old,  worn-out 
growths,  which  is  best  done  immediately  after 
flowering.  It  is  a  Rose  whose  old  growths  are 
liable  to  suffer  from  winter  frosts,  and  last  season 
many  plants  were  so  affected,  but,  strangely,  the 
young  wood  escaped  injury.  The  fine  long 
growths  made  last  season  should  be  retained 
almost  their  entire  length,  but  side  or  lateral 
shoots  should  be  shortened  according  to  their 
strength,  the  strongest  being  retained  some 
12  inches  to  15  inches  iu  length,  and  the  smaller 
from  1  inch  to  4  inches.  If  you  desire  to  grow 
the  Rose  in  its  pot  in  a  greenhouse  it  could  be 
pruned  at  once,  but  if  it  is  to  be  grown  outdoors 
then  March  will  be  time  enough.  Should  you 
wish  to  plant  it  out,  this  can  be  done  at  any  time, 
having  previously  prepared  a  good  position  for  it. 
Carmine  Pillar  is  a  fine  Rose  to  grow  as  a 
single  specimen  upon  a  lawn,  and  it  may  either 
be  secured  to  a  pole  or  arch  or  allowed  to  grow 
as  a  free  bush,  a  method  of  growing  for  which 
the  whole  of  the  multiflora  group  are  peculiarly 
well  fitted. 


GARDEN. 


-y0^=^^ 


No    1941.-VOL.  LXXIII. 


January   30,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


How  I  Gkow  My  Sweet 
Peas     

Coloured  Plate 
Rose  Tausendachon  . . 

N'OTES  OP  THE  WEEK 

C  L)RRESPOl!n)BNOE 

GettiDg   rid    of    field 
mice 

Hardy    evergreen 
shrubs       

Vegetable   c  o  m  p  e t i- 

tioDS  at  the  Royal 

Horticu  1 1  ural 

Society's  meetings. . 

Written   from    the 

Riviera;     Mid- 

winter.— I 

Greenhouse 

Begonia   Gloire  de 
Lorraine 

Campanula    pyra- 
midalis  cnmpaeta  iu 
the  greenhouse 
Rose  Garden 

Rose  White  Killarney 
Fruit  Garden 

Mealy  bug  on  Vines  . . 

Apples  and  canker    . . 
Odontoglossum     arden- 

tissimutn      Norman 

Cookson        


53 


Trees  and  Shrubs 
shrubby  Spiraeas  and 

their  culture   . .     , .     53 
Shrubs    in    spring 

bedding     54 

Flower  Garden 
Saxifraga  lingulata 

lantoscana       . .     . .     55 
Late  Chrysanthemums    55 

Sweet  Pea  chat       ..     ..     55 

Gardening  for  BEOiNNEita 
Garden  work  week  by 

week  . .     56 

How  to  prune  Vines . .     50 
How    to    grow    fine 
Carrots,    Parsnips 
and  Beet 57 

The  Town  Garden    ..    57 

Gaedbninq  op  the  Week 
For  the    South   and 

South  Midlands     . .    5S 
For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands     . .     58 

Answers     to     Corre- 

8P0NDBNTB 

Flower  garden  69 

Trees  and  shrubs      . .  51) 

Greenhouse 50 

Fruit  garden       . .     . .  60 

Miscellaneous     ..     ..  60 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Rose  Tausendschdn Coloured  plate 

A  fine  specimen  of  Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine     . .     . .     52 
Odontoglossum  ardentissimum  Norman  Cookson. ,     ..53 

The  dwarf  Chimney  Bellflower 64 

Saxifiaga  lingulata  lantoecana 55 

How  to  prune  Vines 56,67 


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HOW    1    GROW    MY    SWEET 
PEAS. 

THE  Editor  has  again  honoured  me 
by  requesting  an  article  for  The 
Garden.  When  I  got  the  above 
text  as  my  subject  I  felt  that  I  was 
bound  to  give  the  old  readers  "  Cauld 
kail  het  again,"  as  we  say  in  Scotland.  How- 
ever, the  Sweet  Pea  fever  has  proved  very 
infectious,  and  what  I  have  to  say  may  interest 
the  bulk  of  the  new  patients  (and  their  name  is 
legion).  Many  of  us  wish  we  were  among  their 
number  for  numerous  reasons — among  them 
the  fresh  enthusiasm,  the  fresh  soil  in  their 
gardens  to  grow  them  in,  and  the  benefit  of  the 
National  Sweet  Pea  Society's  guidance  as  to 
what  to  grow. 

Everything  has  a  beginning,  and  the  first 
thing  I  looked  to  when  I  decided  to  grow  Sweet 
Peas  was  the  best  position  for  the  purpose. 
Having  chosen  that,  I  had  to  erect  fences  to 
break  the  force  of  the  wind  from  the  south  and 
south-west,  from  whence  we  get  heavy  gales 
during  the  flowering  season.  Then  the  trenching 
was  tackled  and  it  proved  a  mighty  task.  In 
many  parts  of  the  garden  enormous  tree  trunks 
were  unearthed,  showing  that  a  forest  had  at  one 
time  grown  there  ;  but  now  all  is  easy  and  we 
can  trench  with  pleasure.  It  is  better  to  allow 
plenty  of  space  to  work  in,  so  we  took  out  a 
fairly  big  section  when  we  started  this  work. 
The  top  soil  was  laid  aside  to  be  placed  again  on 
the  top. 

I  find  it  is  advantageous  to  well  work  the  sub- 
soil, and  early  in  December  I  incorporate  with  it 
some  rather  new  eow-manure.  At  the  end  of 
each  season  I  find  the  roots  have  penetrated  right 
through  this  subsoil  and  the  manure  is  a  mass  of 
fibre.  By  the  time  the  roots  get  down  it  must  be 
mellow.  Over  this  the  most  important  compost 
is  worked,  viz. ,  a  mixture  prepared  in  summer 
composed  of  turf,  bone-meal,  lime  and  old 
manure.  This  is  turned  over  once  or  twice  and 
is  in  fine  order  in  the  autumn.  It  is  well  to  do 
this  work  in  dry  weather,  because  not  only  is 
it  easier  done,  but  the  operator  can  "  firm  up  " 
as  the  work  proceeds.  Sweet  Peas  like  a  firm 
piece  of  ground.  I  sometimes  leave,  where  the 
Peas  are  grown  in  circles  in  a  design  on  the 
lawn,  the  top  spit  in  a  heap  outside  the  pre- 
pared station  to  get  the  full  benefit  of  frost  on 
the  portion  from  the  compounded  heap  and  also 
on  it,  filling  up  the  stations  when  frost  has  gone. 
So  much  for  the  preparation  of  the  soil. 

About  the  eommenoement  of  the  New  Year  all 
the  pots  are  filled  with  suitable  soil  to  raise  the 
seeds  in,  and  these  are  placed  under  glass,  where 
the  soil  is  tempered  and   ready  for  seed-sowing 


about  the  end  of  January.  I  have  a  germinator 
with  which  I  test  the  seeds  (swell  them),  and  those 
not  swelling  are  slightly  chipped,  when  they 
swell  up  at  once  and  are  then  sown.  One  cannot 
tell  sterile  seeds,  and  I  am  sorry  to  say  some 
of  the  best  varieties  have  a  percentage  of  this 
stamp  among  them — good-looking  seeds,  whose 
cotyledons  rot  oflF.  It  is  wise,  therefore,  to  buy 
a  few  extra  of  all  the  choice  things.  It  is  wise, 
too,  if  any  mice  are  about,  to  lay  down  some 
Rodine  or  other  poison  prior  to  sowing.  These 
little  vermin  have  the  knack  of  finding  out  the 
seeds  in  the  pots. 

When  the  plants  are  about  1  inch  high  I 
remove  them  to  a  cool  greenhouse  and  keep 
them  near  the  glass,  gradually  hardening  them 
oS'.  They  are  all  in  8-inoh  pots,  ten  plants 
round  each.  I  find  this  size  of  pot  suits 
admirably,  because  in  a  cold  spring  it  carries 
them  on  nicely  till  early  in  May  if  advisable. 
In  a  normal  spring,  early  in  April  for  England 
and  the  third  week  for  the  North  are  the  dates 
most  suitable  for  planting  out.  The  staking  of 
the  tiny  plants  is  a  tedious  process,  but  I  never 
allow  them  to  mix  their  tendrils  or  to  get  off 
the  straight.  It  is  worth  while  to  go  to  this 
trouble,  as  in  planting  out  each  little  stake  is 
handy  and  there  is  no  confusion.  Prior  to 
planting  out  I  withhold  water  for  a  few  days, 
because  when  turned  out  of  the  pots  the  roots 
separate  easily  and  with  ordinary  care  the  fibres 
need  not  be  damaged. 

The  plants  are  put  out  about  1  foot  apart  and 
carefully  tied  up.  I  am  exceedingly  particular 
with  this  work.  It  is  obvious,  if  every  shoot  is 
secure,  that  the  chances  of  damage  from  wind 
are  reduced  to  a  minimum.  The  hoe  is  constantly 
in  use  to  aerate  the  soil,  and  this  operation  is 
most  needful  after  rain,  because  the  soil  cakes. 
I  train  the  bines  to  the  outside  of  the  supports, 
because  the  flowers  are  more  easily  gathered. 

When  the  flowering  season  starts,  daily  cutting 
is  the  order  and  there  is  no  hesitation  about 
taking  off  blooms  that  are  fully  developed.  I 
cut  every  spray  when  it  is  full  out.  In  the  early 
season  it  does  not  matter  much ;  but  later,  if  the 
petals  drop  and  find  a  resting-place  on  the  bine 
in  damp  weather,  one  may  say  good-bye  to  the 
plant.  These  pftals  are  charged  with  poisonous 
sap,  and  what  are  supposed  to  be  diseased 
plants  late  in  the  season,  or  after  a  spell  of  wet 
weather,  are  caused  by  mould  forming  on  these 
petals  and  penetrating  the  bines. 

I  usually  start  surface-feeding  in  the  last  week 
of  July  with  a  weak  solution  of  sheep-manure ; 
the  strength  is  increased  by  degrees.  Nitrate  of 
soda  I  leave  severely  alone,  as  it  tends  to  rush 
the  plants  too  much  and  softens  the  stems  of  the 
sprays.      I   have    used    most    of    the  first-class 


60 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  30,  1909. 


artificial  manures,  and  they  are  all  suitable  for 
use  now  an  I  again  ;  but  I  use  all  these  sparingly. 
Some  interest  was  taken  last  year  in  my  method 
of  training,  viz.,  on  galvanised  wires.  Messrs. 
Hurst  and  Son  had  their  trials  of  garden  Peas 
trained  on  similar  wire  to  suit  the  varying 
height  of  the  Peas,  and  they  looked  so  trim  and 
nice  that  many  made  enquiry  regarding  them. 
Mine  are  6  feet  by  i  feet.  For  circles  I  bend 
(and  this  is  easy)  two  of  them  into  circles  and 
place  one  on  the  top  of  the  other,  making  a 
circle  ,S  feet  high  and  6  feet  in  circumference. 
For  rows  I  run  them  along  with  8-feet  stakes 
placed  6  feet  apart.  The  stakes  can  be  driven 
2  feet  into  the  ground,  and  2  feet  of  the  top  wire 
is  above  the  stake.  I  use  a  double  row  of  wire, 
placing  my  plants  in  the  centre  and  training  to 
each  side.  I  have  seen  a  single  wire  used,  and 
it  does  very  well,  but  the  double  row  gives 
more  air  to  the  plants.  These  wires  are  prac- 
tically indestructible,  and,  though  rather  expen- 
sive to  start  with,  their  lasting  power  and  the 
ease  and  small  space  occupied  when  packed 
away  for  the  winter  make  them  a  good  asset  for 
the  grower.  I  allow  ti  feet  between  the  nearest 
point  of  each  circle,  and  the  sections  cut  in  the 
lawn  are  about  5  feet  wide. 
Duns,  N.B.  A.  Malcolm. 


COLOURED    PLATE 

PLATE    1366. 


ROSE    TAUSENDSCHON. 


T 


•^  ■  "*  HIS  beautiful  new  rambler  Rose  is 
doubly  welcome  to  the  Rose  -  lover, 
for  not  only  is  it  a  great  gain  to  the 
group,  but  it  clearly  shows  that  we 
may  reasonably  expect  other  good 
large-flowered  novelties  by  cross- 
fertilisation.  In  my  opinion  it  marks  as 
distinct  an  advance  as  when  the  Rose  world 
received  Crimson  Rambler  and,  later  on,  Dorothy 
Perkins.  Tausendschon  (which  means  a  thousand 
delights)  really  comes  midway  between  the 
small-flowered  rambler  Roses  and  the  large- 
flowered  climbing  Teas  and  Noisettes,  but 
retains  the  huge  clusters  so  much  associated 
with  the  rambler  tribe.  It  is  not  at  all  unccm- 
mon  to  obtain  one  spray  fully  12  inches  across, 
and  the  individual  flowers,  so  quaintly  fashioned 
and  crimped,  are  sometimes  as  much  as  3  inches 
across.  The  colour  is  a  beautiful  shade  of  light 
rose  pink,  with  a  clear  white  base  to  the  petals. 
One  feature  of  the  Rose  is  the  durability  of  its 
clusters ;  they  often  last  on  the  plant  full}'  a 
month,  when  kept  in  a  cool  house  shaded  from 
the  sun.  All  who  grow  these  beautiful  rambler 
Roses  as  pot  plants  should  take  care  to  place 
them  in  a  cool  temperature  when  the  buds  begin  to 
unfold,  for  then  not  only  are  they  more  lasting 
in  efi'ect,  but  the  colour  is  considerably  improved. 
As  with  most  of  the  rambler  group,  one  must 
wait  for  two  or  three  years  before  the  full 
beauty  of  the  varieties  can  be  realisecl  ;  and  it  is 
almost  libelling  a  novelty  to  exhibit  small  one 
year  old  grafted  plants  in  bloom,  when  one 
remembers  what  majestic  specimens  are  possible 
with  age. 

Gardeners  should  find  this  novelty  one  of 
great  value  for  all  floral  decorations,  for  the  ex- 
quisite colouring  blends  so  well  with  Carnations 
and  other  occupants  of  the  conservatory.  For 
outdoor  use  one  must  not  expect  Tausendschiin 
to  ramble  away  like  a  Dorothy  Perkins,  so  that 
in  planting  it  should  be  given  a  position  such  as 
a  pergola  or  an  isolated  pillar,  where  its  beauty 
may  be  fully  seen. 

I  look  forward  to  the  time  when  we  shall  see 
this  variety  growing  on  standards,  for  it  cannot 
fail  to  be  at  once  most  attractive,  as,  apart  from 
the  flowers,  it  has  distinct  pale  grass-green 
foliage  and  wood,  the  latter  being  almost  as 
thornless  as  the  so-called  thornless  Rose  Zepherine 
Drouhin.     Its  season  of  flowering  begins  about 


the  third  week  in  June,  thus  having  as  com- 
panions such  sorts  as  Eleetra,  Wedding  Bells, 
Trier,  Tea  Rambler,  Psyche,  Griiss  an  Zabern, 
Gardenia,  Jersey  Beauty,  Joseph  Billiard,  Rubin, 
Claire  Jacquier  and  Flora.  Tausendschijn  grows 
well  on  a  wall  with  a  south  or  west  aspect.  It 
could  be  planted  in  conjunction  with  Dorothy 
Perkins  and  Hiawatha,  these  two  latter  begin- 
ning to  bloom  when  Tausendschun  is  waning.  It 
was  introduced  from  Germany  by  Herr  Schmidt 
in  1907.  Rosa. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS 

February    9. — Royal    Horticultural    Society's 
Meeting. 


East    Anglian     Hoptlcultupal 
Club  — Annual    meeting'.— Nearly 

seventy  members  sat  down  to  the  nineteenth 
annual  dinner  of  this  club,  which  was  held  at 
Norwich.  Mr.  J.  Powley  was  in  the  chair, 
supported  by  the  most  prominent  horticulturists 
of  the  district.  A  lengthy  toast  list  was  pre- 
pared. "  Success  to  the  Club  "  was  ably  proposed 
by  Mr.  J.  E.  T.  Pollard,  a  former  hon.  secretary 
of  the  Norfolk  and  Norwich  Horticultural 
Society.  This  was  replied  to  by  the  president. 
Mr.  L.  Smith  proposed  "  Success  to  the  Norfolk 
and  Norwich  Society,"  which  for  over  seventy 
years  had  been  holding  shows  in  the  district. 
Mr.  William  Smith  replied,  and  said  that  although 
the  finances  were  not  quite  so  satisfactory,  he 
hoped  the  tide  would  soon  turn.  Mr.  T.  B. 
Field  proposed  "  The  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,"  and  impressed  upon  the  younger 
members  the  advisability  of  taking  interest  in 
the  examinations  of  this  society  for  certificates. 
Mr.  Charles  Daniels  responded,  and  spoke  of  the 
good  work  the  society  is  doing  at  Wisley.  He 
incidentally  remarked  upon  the  desirability  of  a 
local  garden  for  horticultural  experiments. ^P. 

Jubilee  Flowep  Show,  Haarlem, 

1910, — The  opening  date  for  this  show,  to 
which  we  have  referred  before,  is  now  definitel}' 
fixed  for  March  23,  1910.  Consequently  it  will 
be  open  before  Easter,  to  be  closed  after 
Whitsuntide  (May  15).  The  show  will  be 
divided  into  a  permanent  exhibition  in  the  open 
and  three  temporary  shows  in  buildings.  The 
co-operation  has  been  obtained  of  Boskoop, 
Aalsmeer  and  other  important  horticultural 
places,  and  the  exhibition  will  therefore  afford  a 
splendid  opportunity  of  giving  a  very  complete 
idea  of  Dutch  horticulture,  especially  as  far  as 
bulb  culture,  nursery  stock,  trees,  shrubs  and 
flowers  are  concerned.  The  first  temporary  show 
is  to  be  held  at  Easter  time  ;  the  second  about 
the  middle  of  April,  during  the  flowering  season 
of  the  bulb  fields ;  and  the  third  in  the  first  days 
of  May.  Prince  Henry  of  the  Netherlands  has 
most  kindly  consented  to  be  the  patron  of  the 
exhibition  ;  Queen  Wilhelmina  and  the  Queen- 
Mother  are  also  patrons. 

Redhill,    Reigate    and    District 
Gardeners'     Association.  —  At     the 

annual  general  meeting,  held  recently,  Mr. 
W.  P.  B»und  presiding,  the  report  and  balance 
sheet  for  the  past  year  were  presented  by  Mr. 
Rose.  The  balance  in  the  bank  at  the  end  of 
the  session  was  £14  3s.  2d.  as  compared  with 
£22  12s.  5d.  at  the  end  of  the  previous  year,  the 
deficiency  being  accounted  for  to  some  extent  by 
the  falling  off  of  subscriptions.  Although  the 
membership  had  decreased  from  225  to  190, 
much  valuable  work  was  done  during  the  past 
year,  the  lectures  being  well  attended.  The 
library,  too,  had  been  made  good  use  of.  The 
hon.  secretary,  Mr.  Rose,  was  presented  with  an 
honorarium  of  £5  as  an  appreciation  of  services 
rendered.  Sir  Jeremiah  Colman,  Bart.,  was 
re-elected  president ;  Mr.  W.  P.  Bound,  chair- 
man ;  Mr.  W.  Seaman,  librarian  ;  and  Mr.  Rose, 
hon.  secretary  and  treasurer. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

Sweet  Peas.- Seedsmen  who  may  not  be 

essentially  Sweet  Pea  specialists  pay  liberal 
tribute  to  the  beauty  as  well  as  popularity 
of  this  charming  flower  by  depicting  some 
varieties  in  colours  on  the  covers  of  their  seed 
lists.  While  these  illustrations  are  very 
beautifully  done  and  most  faithfully  depict  the 
varieties  named,  they  constitute  also  a  high 
tribute  to  the  colour  printer  who  can  thus 
present  flowers  of  such  varied  hues  and  such 
delicate  and  refined  markings  as  these  illustra- 
tions exhibit.  I  have  before  me  the  catalogues 
of  Mr.  Breadmore  of  Winchester,  a  well-known 
Sweet  Pea  specialist  ;  of  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co., 
Rothesay,  not  less  well-known  for  their  varieties  ; 
and  of  Messrs.  G.  Bunyard  and  Co.,  Maidstone, 
who  jointly  depict  some  eighteen  varieties,  mostly 
new  or  very  beautiful,  and  so  admirably  have 
these  portraits  in  each  case  been  done  that  it 
would  be  difficult  to  say  which  are  best.  These 
pictures  are  to  the  uninitiated,  however,  most 
useful  in  enabling  them  to  select  those  varieties 
they  may  prefer,  as  well  as  oiiering  opportunity 
to  become  familar  with  forms  of  floral  beauty  witli 
which  hitherto  they  may  have  been  ignorant  of. 
When  it  can  be  said  with  truth  that  each  flower 
is  pictured  exactly  as  in  life,  higher  praise 
cannot  be  furnished.  But  the  real  tribute  piid 
by  these  pictures,  after  all,  is  to  the  wondrous 
beauty  of  the  flower  itself.  Every  year  brings 
some  fresh  breaks  of  colour,  and  there  seems  to 
be  no  limit  to  development  in  that  direction. 
But  it  is  one  of  the  fine  features  of  these 
novelties  that  they  seem  to  lose  nothing  in 
strength  or  robustness  ;  happily  so,  as  with  so 
many  plants  that  are  being  repeatedly  inbred 
weakness  of  constitution  is  too  apt  to  follow. 
Those  who  have  seen  such  trials  as  the  National 
Sweet  Pea  Society  holds  yearly  at  Reading,  or 
those  conducted  on  such  huge  scales  by  seeds- 
men, note  that  new  or  old  varieties  all  seem  to 
show  that  full  growth  which  has  characterised 
the  Sweet  Pea  from  its  earliest  days.  Novices  in 
Sweet  Peas  will  probably  find  in  the  huge 
number  of  varieties  offered  in  seed  lists  a 
stumbling-block  to  their  ardour  at  the  outset. 
A  list  of  some  100  named  varieties  doubtless  pre- 
sents difficulty  in  selecting  the  best  where  all  are 
so  good  ;  but  if  the  novice  in  question  will  become 
a  member  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society,  at 
a  cost  of  5s.  yearly,  he  will  get  a  schedule,  in 
which  will  be  found  classified  the  various  colours 
or  markings  Sweet  Peas  now  present,  with  what 
the  floral  committee  regard  as  the  best  of  these 
various  sections  at  the  head  of  each  list,  and 
thus  find  very  material  guidance.  But  Sweet 
Peas  are  cheap,  and  because  costing  so  little  in 
that  way  encourage  the  growing  each  year  of 
a  considerable  collection.  To  be  enabled  to 
grow  a  numerous  variety  it  is  best  to  sow  in 
clumps  in  holes  2  feet  broad  and  which  have 
been  worked  2  feet  deep,  having  some  well- 
decayed  manure  buried  down  into  the  soil.  Then 
with  fifteen  seeds  sown  on  each  mound,  the 
plants  later  thinned  down  to  nine  only,  a 
beautiful  show  will  result. — A.  D. 
Getting  rid  of  field  mice.— In 

answer  to  the  enquiries  of  "  H.  E.  C."  as  to  the 
best  methods  of  getting  rid  of  field  mice  from  a 
garden,  I  can  say  from  experience  that  I  am  able 
to  keep  them  in  check  in  my  own  garden,  where 
they  have  been  a  great  pest,  by  the  use  of  the 
"Little  Nipper"  mouse-trap.  Field  mice  are 
very  easy  to  trap  with  these  at  night  it 
baited  with  cheese.  If  "  H.  E.  C."  will  buy  a 
dozen  of  these  traps  and  set  them  all  every 
afternoon  he  will  soon  have  a  considerable  bag 
of  his  enemies,  and  if  he  perseveres  will  have 
reduced  their  numbers  within  bounds.  The 
traps  should  be  visited  as  early  as  possible  every 
morning  and  not  left  sot  in  the  dayiime,  or  many 
a  robin  may  fall  a  victim  to  lliem.       A  sharp 


January  30,  1909.1 


THE     GARDEN. 


51 


look-out  must  always  be  kept  for  any  holes  mice 
may  be  making  in  the  garden,  and  a  trap  set  out- 
side them  at  once.  Where  mice  are  known  to 
infest  a  garden  even  in  small  numbers,  Peas  and 
Beans  should  never  be  sown  without  first  being 
moistened  with  a  small  quantity  of  paraffin  and 
then  rolled  in  powdered  red  lead.  If  it  is 
possible,  owls  should  be  preserved  and  en- 
couraged as  both  the  gardeners'  and  farmers' 
friends,  for  not  only  do  they  keep  the  field  mice 
down,  but  also  account  for  a  large  number  of 
young  rats. — C.  G.  0.  B. 

In   answer    to    "  H.  E.  C.'s"    question, 

"How  to  rid  a  garden  of  field  mice"  I  have 
found  nothing  answers  so  well  as  a  really  good 
cat.  Three  years  ago  my  lawns  and  a  quantity 
of  rough  grass  surrounding  them,  in  which  1 
grow  many  thousands  of  Daffodils,  were  all 
honeycombed  with  the  runs  of  field  mice.  I 
tried  various  traps,  &c.,  but  these  only  caught 
birds,  or  so  few  mice  as  to  be  useless.  Then  I 
got  a  really  good  cat,  and  now  my  garden  is 
perfectly  free  from  these  pests. — E.  M.  C.  C. 

In  answer  to   "  H.    E.    C.'s"   query  on 

page  26  of  The  Garden,  "How  to  rid  a  garden 
of  field  mice  ? "  I  should  like  to  say  that  the  best 
way  I  have  found  (being  at  one  time  troubled 
with  the  same  pest  here)  is  to  bait  plenty  of  traps 
with  dry  Peas,  one  or  two  tied  to  a  trap  with 
fine  bouquet  wire  threaded  through  the  Pea. 
The  field  mouse,  being  a  vegetarian,  it  is  of  little 
use  baiting  with  cheese,  while  it  greedily  eats 
the  Peas.  Now  is  the  best  time  to  start  the 
trapping,  and  persevere  with  it  during  the  winter, 
before  the  mice  begin  to  breed  and  also  before  there 
is  much  for  them  to  eat  in  the  way  of  vegetation. 
I  venture  to  say  that  "  H.  E.  C."  will  not  be 
troubled  nearly  so  much  if  he  follows  up  my 
method  for  a  few  weeks. — J.  Chilcott  (Head- 
gardener),  Chipchase  Gaatle  Gardens,  Wark-on- 
Tyne. 

Hardy  evergreen  shrubs.— I  fear 

the  writer  of  the  essay  on  "  Evergreen  Shrubs  for 
Winter  Efiect"  rather  over-compliments  Privet  in 
classing  it  among  evergreens.  In  my  own  ease 
and  in  this  locality  Privet  has  been  almost 
totally  defoliated  by  fogs  and  the  recent  severe 
frosts.  Few  shrubs  shed  leaves  so  fast  under 
fog  influences.  The  Cotoneasters  are  far  from 
being  reliable  evergreens.  C.  Simonsii  has  been 
leafless  here  almost  all  the  winter,  and  is  toler- 
able chiefly  because  of  its  numerous  berries. 
Gratiegus  Pyracantha  also  sheds  its  leaves 
materially  in  foggy  weather.  A  true  evergreen 
should  be  so  hardy  that  it  will  retain  its 
foliage  in  robust  health  under  any  weather 
conditions,  short,  of  course,  of  death.  I 
should  have  expected  that  the  title  of  the 
essay  necessitated  reference  solely  to  such  ever- 
greens as  could  be  relied  upon  to  furnish  good 
winter  foliage  effects  in  the  open,  and  because 
of  that  assumption  should  have  ruled  out  not 
only  shrubs  that  are  semi-evergreen,  but 
such  tender  ones  as  Choisya  ternata,  Escallonia 
macrantha,  Magnolia  grandiflora.  Mistletoe  (not 
a  bona  fide  shrub)  and  Yuccas  (these  not  being 
classed  as  shrubs).  Still,  they,  and  especially 
Y.  recurva,  are  some  of  the  noblest  winter  ever- 
greens.— A  ,  Kingalon-(»i-Thames. 

Vegetable    competitions   at    the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's 

meetings. — The  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
has  done  well  to  include  vegetables  for  competi- 
tion at  the  fortnightly  meetings  during  the  next 
twelve  months,  and  one  important  point  is  that 
forced  vegetables  are  included,  as,  now  that  we 
hear  so  much  about  French  culture  or  intensive 
cultivation  of  vegetables,  itwill  give  home  growers 
an  opportunity  to  show  that  the  new  system  so 
much  talked  about  is  really  nothing  very  new,  but 
consists  merely  of  ways  and  means  which  in  many 
British  gardens  are  difficult  to  adopt.  For  many 
years  I  consider  we  have  done  much  in  forcing 
vegetables.  In  many  counties  a  special  feature 
is  made  of  forcing  Potatoes  in  quantity  with  fresh 
tree  leaves  and  manure.      For  over  thirty  years 


I  forced  large  quantities  of  Asparagus  in  this  way ; 
I  do  not  mean  merely  by  lifting  the  roots,  but  by 
forcing  in  permanent  beds,  and  the  same  remark 
applies  to  Lettuces.  Of  the  latter,  how  few 
gardens  there  are  of  any  size  where  these  plants 
are  not  in  frames  on  a  warm  bed  of  leaves  or 
litter.  It  is  a  general  rule  to  sow  seeds  in 
January  of  such  varieties  as  Golden  Ball  or 
Earliest  of  All,  and  have  Lettuces  equal  to  those 
imported  in  the  early  spring  from  the  Continent. 
Again,  Radishes  now  are  regularly  forced  under 
glass  in  most  gardens,  also  Carrots  and  Turnips, 
and  of  late  years  more  attention  has  been  paid  to 
this  mode  of  culture.  We  can  also  grow  Peas 
and  similar  vegetables  to  perfection  under  glass, 
as  proved  by  exhibits  staged  at  the  Temple  Show, 
and  many  growers  at  the  present  day  get  their 
first  crop  of  Broad  Beans  from  indoor  sowings. 
My  remarks  will  show  that  as  regards  forced 
vegetables  we  are  not  so  much  behind  as  may  be 
thought  by  those  who  have  not  studied  the  sub- 
ject. I  am  very  pleased  that  the  council  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  has  brought 
this  matter  to  the  front,  and  I  trust  there  will  be 
good  competition.  Salads  should  find  much 
favour  in  March,  April  and  May,  as  Lettuces 
then  will  form  an  important  item. — G.  Wythes. 


WRITTEN    FROM    THE 
RIVIERA  :     MIDWINTER.— 1. 

Flowers  "At  Home." 

TO  flower  -  lovers  fresh  from  England, 
particularly  to  those  who  love  flowers 
well  enough  to  make  companions  of 
them  and  understand  their  looks  and 
ways,  it  comes  with  something  of 
surprise  to  find  how  the  journey  of  a 
few  hours  southwards  will  present  the  very  same 
plants  and  flowers  to  us  under  quite  new  aspects. 
After  one  day  and  night  en  voyage,  waking  up 
among  the  sun-bathed  Olive  groves  and  Vine- 
yards of  the  French  Mediterranean,  we  find 
numbers  of  our  old  companions,  friendly  as  ever, 
and  even  more  welcome  among  so  much  that 
is  unfamiliar,  but  somehow  they  have  put  on 
different  faces. 

How  so  ?  Well,  many  of  them  have  gained  a 
new  expression.  They  have  an  air  of  gaiety  and 
bien-aise  that  has  changed  them  indescribably. 
It  is  like  seeing  a  child  again,  just  home  for  the 
holidays,  "  grown  out  of  knowledge,"  as  the 
saying  is,  or  like  the  first  sight  of  acquaintances 
returned  newly  to  the  world  after  having  done 
rest-cures  that  have  made  them  plumper  and 
rosier  than  we  remembered  them,  or,  indeed, 
than  they  really  were  before.  There  is  some- 
thing of  the  same  diflerenoe,  too,  only  not  so 
great,  of  course,  as  between  a  picture  dimmed 
with  age  and  dust,  and  then  renewed  by 
cleaning,  or  as  if  our  vision  had  suddenly 
become  keener  and  clearer  ;  size  and  colour  both 
are  magaified. 

All  this  is  not  surprising  when  we  remember 
how  we  English  people  annex  the  plants  and 
flowers  of  every  shore  and  olirae,  expecting  them 
to  fall  in  with  our  ways,  talk  our  language  and 
make  the  best  of  an  alien  climate.  Wonderfully 
well  they  do  it,  bearing  all  manner  of  incon- 
veniences, such  as  dampness,  lack  of  sunshine 
and  many  other  ills  with  so  much  amiability  that 
we  forget  the  poor  things  are  dipayses  ;  but  only 
see  the  same  plants  when  they  are  actually  in 
their  own  homes — it  is  a  revelation  ! 

Look,  now,  at  this  clustering  Ivy.  Its  berries 
hang  in  heavy  bunches,  deeply  coloured  as  the 
purple  Grape,  and  ah  !  how  full  of  juice.  What 
a  surprise  they  would  be  to  an  English  robin  ! 
And  here  is  an  Auouba — who  ever  dreamed  how 
bright  the  colour  of  its  variegated  leaves  could 
be,  or  how  vivid  the  scarlet  of  its  berries  ?  And 
they  are  so  large  that  if  really  made  of  sealing- 
wax — which  they  much  resemble — it  would  take 
only  a  few  of  them  to  spread  a  seal  as  big  as  the 
Lord  Chancellor's. 


Let  us  take  a  winter  walk  amid  the  under- 
growth of  the  pleasant  woods  that  clothe  the 
sides  of  the  snow-capped  Estorels.  Now  and 
again  we  shall  cross  by  stepping-stones  the  bed 
of  some  clear  mountain  stream.  Every  move- 
ment liberates  the  fragrances  of  Thyme  and 
Lavender.  Brushing  through  thickets  of  Juniper 
and  Cistus,  we  stoop  to  gather  up  the  fallen 
Pine-cones  that  will  blaze  finely  in  our  wood 
fire  to-night.  We  must  laugh  a  little  at  the 
poor  bare-legged  Cork  trees,  that  do  not  seem  at 
all  put  out,  however,  at  having  no  socks  on, 
even  when  the  mistral  blows.  Oddly  enough, 
Cork  trees  that  are  not  barked  look  uncom- 
fortable in  another  way.  How  curious  it  is,  too, 
that  Corks  should  grow  close  to  Vineyards ;  so 
convenient ! 

How  gay  the  world  is,  though  it  is  still  mid- 
winter !  See  how  the  morning  sunshine  falls  on 
the  long  leaves  of  the  Eucalyptus  trees,  of  which 
the  top  branches  are  already  in  flower  ;  but  the 
stems  are  shedding  their  outer  bark  untidily. 
Some  of  this,  too,  shall  feed  our  aromatic  fires. 

Here  and  there  a  thin  sheet  of  ice  may  be 
sparkling,  but  Jack  Frost's  fingers  do  not  make 
much  difference.  Neither  the  Myrtles  nor  the 
Oleanders  (native  here)  care  a  bit  about  him. 
Myrtle  bushes,  less  formal  than  in  England,  are 
spreading  and  almost  clinging  over  and  about 
the  sun-warmed  scattered  stones.  Day  after  day 
we  visit  a  certain  boulder,  where  blue-black 
Myrtle  berries,  half  hidden  in  glossy,  fragrant 
leaves,  lie  close  to  the  clean  white  rock — they 
look  so  happy  there.  We  visit  this  green-robed 
boulder  almost  every  day.  It  is  a  landmark  in 
the  woods,  and  good  to  lean  against.  Some 
fellow-wanderers  find  a  wonderful  pale  green 
prickly  plant  with  great  big  scarlet  berries. 
"What  can  it  be?"  they  say.  It  is  really 
nothing  but  Ruscus,  the  common  Butcher's 
Broom,  that  often  looks  depressed  in  English 
shrubberies,  but  is  so  heartened  up  beneath 
these  sunny  skies  as  hardly  to  be  recognisable. 

In  the  garden  the  most  amazing  incongruities 
await  us.  Inmates  of  the  conservatory — when 
in  England — are  filling  open-air  beds  and  borders. 
Very  odd  look  the  pinky  Primulas  when  used  as 
"bedders,"  and  very  funnily  they  fraternise 
with  extremely  English-looking  red  and  white 
Daisies,  homely  Violas  and  sturdy  Stocks. 
Hedges  of  a  winter-blooming  shrub  with  bright 
green  oval  leaves  and  the  prettiest  white  flowers, 
like  little  stars,  are  common.  The  flowers  are 
at  their  best  in  January  and  fade  before  the 
Laurustinus  blooms.  The  gardeners  say  the 
shrub  is  Epatoire,  but  I  do  not  know  its  English 
name.  It  grows  very  well,  they  say,  in  Southern 
English  gardens.  Winter  Honeysuckle  makes  a 
tall,  strong  shrub  as  fragrant  as  our  English 
Woodbine.  Mimosa  trees  already  are  tinged 
with  yellow,  but  the  harvest  of  their  golden 
balls  is  not  yet  due.  Agaves  and  Palms  are 
everywhere.  Among  the  stones  in  sunniest 
places  bask  curious  Cactus  plants  like  drowsy 
reptiles.  These  are  not  indigenous,  but  behave 
as  if  the  place  belonged  to  them.  We  never  can 
make  up  our  minds  about  these  spiny  creatures. 
Do  we  really  like  them?  Have  they  any 
business  in  this  peaceful  Paradise,  or  do  they 
recall  the  serpent  ? 

The  mixture  of  trees  and  flowers  and  plants 
that  make  their  home  upon  the  sunny  Mediter- 
ranean shore  is  puzzling.  From  four  different  con- 
tinents the  hand  of  man  has  gathered  and  dis- 
persed all  over  it  many  kinds  of  seeds  and  slips 
and  cuttings.  Cypresses  from  the  Orient,  Oranges 
and  Lemons  from  sub-tropical  Asia,  Fig  trees 
from  India,  Agaves  from  Central  America,  blue 
Gum  trees  from  Australia — all  have  come  to 
stay,  and  some  of  them  were  brought  so  long 
ago  that  the  date  of  their  introduction  is 
forgotten.  Truly  is  this  the  land  of  flowers ; 
and  flowers,  like  human  beings,  are  never  so 
happy  or  seen  to  so  much  advantage  as 
when  "at  home."  Herein,  to  many  an  English 
flower-lover,  lies  the  greatest  charm  of  the 
Riviera.  Frances  A.  Bardswel    l. 


52 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  30,  1909. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

BEGONIA  GLOIRE  DE  LORRAINE. 

iHIS  Begonia  was  raised  in  1S91  by  M. 
Lemoine  of  Nancy,  its  parents  being 
B.  socotrana  and  B.  Dregei,  and  two 
years  later  received  a  first-class 
certificate  from  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society.  A  few  years  ago  it 
was  unknown,  but  to-day  it  is  difficult  to  find 
a  garden  where  it  is  not  grown.  No  warm 
greenhouse  is  now  considered  to  be  properly 
furnished  in  the  winter  unless  it  can  show  a 
display  of  this  Begonia,  whose  rapid  leap  into 
popularity  has  been  most  remarkable.     It  is,  un- 


I  stand  12  inches  apart  in  rows  15  inches  asunder, 
I  and  every  attention  is  given  during  summer 
!  and  autumn  to  keep  the  ground  free  from 
i  weeds  and  in  supplying  water  during  periods  of 
drought. 

THIS  Begonia  was  raised  in  isyi  by  M.  I  In  the  following  spring  select  the  strongest 
Lemoine  of  Nancy,  its  parents  being  ,  plants  for  growing  as  specimens  in  pots,  utilising 
B  socotrana  and  B.  Dregei,  and  two  the  remainder  for  furnishing  beds  and  borders  in 
years  later  received  a  first-class  the  flower  garden.  Some  care  is  necessary  in 
certificate  from  the  Royal  Hortioul-  '  lifting  the  plants,  as  the  roots  are  very  brittle 
,   r.__:_i_       A    c — ,   „„n..o  nryr,   it    aud  oasily  brofceu,  so  that  any  damaged  parts 

should  be  pared  over  with  the  knife  before 
potting.  Pots  measuring  6  inches  to  7  inches  in 
diameter  and  upwards  are  suitable  for  specimen 
plants,  and  are  most  generally  useful.  The 
potting  soil  should  be  as  rich  in  plant  food  as 
that  employed  in  Chrysanthemum  culture  at  the 
doubtedly,  the  best  of  its  class  for  keeping  up  a  :  final  potting,  as  this  Campanula  requires  liberal 
succession  of  bloom,  and  its  compact  habit  and  treatment  to  enable  it  to  develop  the  huge 
bright  green  foliage  are  further  recommendations,  ,  pyramidal  masses  of  flowers  to  the  greatest  perfec- 
while  among  all  the  fibrous-rooted  varieties  there  tion.  When  the  plants  are  potted  stand  them 
is  nothing  to  equal  it  in  free-flowering  qualities,  i  close  together  upon  a  cinder  bottom  in  the  open 
It  is  astonishing  for  how  long  a  time  this  Begonia  air,  and  when  growth  is  somewhat  advanced 
will  continue  to  produce  flowers.  Commencing  I  any  weak  or  belated  growths  should  be  rubbed 
in  the  autumn,  it  may  be  had  in  bloom 
throughout  the  entire  winter,  well- 
grown  plants  continuing  to  bloom  for 
at  least  six  months,  and,  after  the 
Chrysanthemums  are  over,  a  lovely 
effect  may  be  produced  in  warm  con- 
servatories before  the  forced  bulbs  and 
shrubs  are  present  in  quantity.  It  is 
essentially  a  plant  that  well  repays 
careful  treatment,  and  the  difference 
between  a  fine  specimen,  symmetrical 
and  well-flowered,  and  a  weakly  plant 
with  few  blooms  is  very  striking.  It 
has  an  extremely  pretty  appearance  if 
grown  in  wire  baskets,  as  in  the  case 
shown  in  the  illustration,  which  gives 
a  view  of  a  plant  grown  in  the  gardens 
at  Brookhill,  Kingswear,  South  Devon, 
the  residence  of  '  Mr.  R.  F.  Wilkins, 
that  reflects  the  greatest  credit  on  the 
cultivator.  S.  W.  Fitzhbrbert. 


CAMPANULA  PYRAMIDALIS 
COMPACTA  IN  THE  GREEN- 
HOUSE 
There  are  many  species  and  countless 
varieties  of  Campanula  which  at 
various  seasons  of  the  year  beautifj' 
our  gardens,  but  it  remains  open  to 
question  whether  any  one  of  them  is 
more  generally  useful  or  enjoys  greater 
popularity  than  the  subject  of  this 
note.  Campanula  pyraraidalis  has  been 
known  in  gardens  for  some  300  years, 
and,  although  a  very  old  plant,  it  yet 
maintains  a  position  in  the  forefront 
of  hardy  border  plants,  while  superb 
specimens  are  seen  every  year  in  pots, 
so  that  it  is  really  indispensable  in  a 
well-ordered  garden  during  autumn. 
Often  the  Chimney  Bellflower,  as  this 
Campanula  is  popularly  called,  proves 
perennial  on  well-drained,  light  soils  ; 
but  in  practice  it  is  better  to  regard  it 
as  a  biennial  and  rely  upon  annual 
sowings  to  maintain  a  vigorous  stock 
of  plants.  February  is  a  good  month  in  which 
to  begin  operations.  The  seed  is  sown  in 
well-drained  pans  or  shallow  boxes  containing 
prepared  soil  and  only  just  covered  with  sifted 
soil ;  the  seed-boxes  are  then  placed  in  a  warm 
greenhouse  and  covered  with  glass,  which 
maintains  a  uniform  degree  of  moisture  and 
heat  and  thereby  hastens  germination.  When 
the  seedlings  appear  the  glass  is  removed  and 
every  encouragement  given  to  the  plants  to  gain 
strength,  conserving  the  day  temperature  by  all 
the  available  sun-heat.  In  due  course  the  seed- 
lings are  pricked  out  singly  into  deeper  boxes 
and  returned  to  the  greenhouse  till  well  estab- 
lished. About  the  middle  of  June  they  are 
planted  out  in  well-prepared  ground  ;  the  plants 


the  summer,  discontinuing  this  practice  when  the 
plants  are  in  full  flower. 

Two  distinct  colour  forms  of  Campanula  pyra- 
midalis  are  cultivated  in  gardens,  namely,  blue 
and  white ;  the  latter  is  most  generally  employed 
in  pots,  as  it  has  some  advantage  over  the  blue 
shades  under  artificial  light.  There  is  also  a 
splendid  form  which  I  procured  three  years  ago 
under  the  description  of  the  Syon  House  variety. 
This  form,  shown  in  the  illustration  on  page  54,  is 
characterised  by  having  flowers  of  greater  sub- 
stance and  much  larger  than  the  type  ;  the  corolla 
segments  are  also  more  rounded  at  tlie  points, 
while  the  spikes  are  fuller  and  of  greater  depth. 
The  habit  of  this  variety  is  dwarf,  and  rarely 
exceeds  4  feet  in  height,  whereas  the  type 
frequently  reaches  6  feet  and  7  feet  when 
grown  in  pots.  Seeds  of  both  blue  and 
white  varieties  are  offered  this  season  under 
the  name  of  C.  pyramidalis  compacta.  This 
variety  was  raised  by  Mr.  Wythes  when 
he  was  gardener  to  the  Duke  of  Northum- 
berland at  Syon  House,  Brentford.  It  has 
not  the  grace  of  the  type,  but  is  a  good 
plant.  Tho-Mas  Smith. 

Walnisgate  Gardens,  Louth,  Lines. 


A     W 

A 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN. 

ROSE  WHITE   KILLARNEY. 

WHITE  sport  of  that  excel- 
lent Rose  Killarney  origi- 
nated at  the  Waban  Rose 
Conservatories,    and     Mr. 
F.  R.  Pierson  of  Tarrytown- 
on  -  Hudson,    New    York, 
purchased  half  of  the  stock,  and  it  was 
in  a  house   in   his   nurseries  at  Scar- 
borough  that  I   had   the    pleasure  of 
seeing  it.      No  better  opportunity  to 
compare  this  new  Rose  with  the  original 
Killarney  could  have  been  afibrded,  for 
there  they  were  growing  side  by  side 
in  a   house  300  feet  by  60  feet,  and 
therefore  it   was  not   a  comparison  of 
a  few  plants,  but  of  thousands. 

There  is  no  question,  in  my  mind, 
that  the  subject  of  these  notes  is  a 
somewhat  stronger  grower  than  the 
variety  from  which  it  sprang  and  that 
the  blooms  are  larger  and  have  more 
petals  ;  and  another  thing  that  struck 
me  was  the  evenness  of  the  quality 
of  the  blooms,  a  vaseful  of  selected 
flowers  seeming  to  be  very  little 
superior  to  the  general  run,  while  the 
Killarney  blooms  varied  considerably 
in  quality.  The  white  shade  reminds 
me  a  great  deal  of  Kaiserin  Augusta 
Victoria,  having  the  slightly  greenish 
tinge  in  the  bud,  but  opening  to  a  pure 
cream  or  ivory  white.  It  is  hardly 
necessary  to  saj'  anything  regarding  its 
form,  except  that  it  is  the  same  as 
Killarney,  with  even  deeper  petals 
and  apparently  more  of  them. 

I  have  tried  to  use  moderation 
in  describing  this  new  Rose,  though 
filled  with  enthusiasm.  However, 
out  and  the  strength  of  the  plant  directed  into  i  I  will  now  venture  to  say  that,  should  it  prove 
those  shoots  retained.  Strong  Bamboo  canes  are  to  be  as  good  out  of  doors  as  I  have  seen 
placed  to  each  shoot  at  an  early  stage,  to  which  '  it  growing  under  glass  (and,  judging  from 
the  stems  are  tied,  completing  this  operation  the  original  Killarney,  there  seems  to  be  no 
before  the  flowers  begin  to  expand.  reason  why  it  should  not),   it  will   be  the   best 

As  soon  as  the  flower-buds  begin  to  open  the  white  Rose  we  have,  not  even  excepting  Frau 
plants  are  removed  to  the  greenhouse,  choosing  a  |  Karl  Druschki,  for  besides  being  as  large  as  the 
position  shaded  from  direct  sunshine  ;  here  the  latter,  it  has  in  addition  greater  freedom  of 
flowers  will  open  and  under  these  conditions  |  bloom  and  delightful  fragrance.  In  concluding, 
last  in  beauty  for  more  than  six  weeks.  AH  i  I  wish  to  say  that  it  is  the  Waban  Rose  Con- 
decaying  flowers  must  be  removed  as  early  as  1  servatories'  variety  of  White  Killarney  that  I 
possible,  using  small  scissors  to  cut  the  spent  I  am  writing  about,  for  there  is  at  least  one  other 
blooms  away  ;  lateral  flower-buds  will  soon  open  i  white  sport  of  Killarney  in  America  ;  but  this  I 
and  replace  those  that  are  past.  Regular  appli-  '  have  not  seen,  and  consequently  know  nothing 
cations  of  some  approved  fertiliser  in  liquid  form  ,  as  to  its  merits, 
should  be  given  the  plants  once  a  week  during        "''■"'"   "'"•■'"• 


A   FINE    SPECIMEN   OF  BEOONIA  GLOIRE   DE  LORRAINE. 


White  Plains,  N.  Y. 


Alfred  L.  Sijuike. 


January  30,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN. 


I 


MEALY    BUG    ON    VINES 

[In  ansioer  to  several  Gorrespmidents  ] 

AM  ))leased  to  advise  on  the  extermination 
ut'  this  pest,  and  in  doing  so  will  not  eon6ne 
myself  to  one  remedy,  but  to  several  which 
I  have  found  effectual.  There  is  no  other 
pest  so  diflSoult  to  get  rid  of,  as,  though 
there  are  several  remedies  advised,  some 
have  proved  to  be  worse  than  the  insects,  as  they 
kill  the  Vine.  Of  late  years  I  have  heard  of 
several  cases  where  the  pest  has  been  experi- 
mented upon  with  hydrocyanic  gas  or  vapour ; 
but  I  am  not  able  to  advise  upon  this  matter,  not 
having  yet  fully  decided  as  to  its  merits  in  the 
c  ises  that  have  been  tested,  and  I  will  therefore 
rely  upon  oldermethods. 
Only  recently  I  was 
visiting  a  large  garden, 
and  was  told  that  some 
years  ago  the  Vines  and 
plants  were  badly  in- 
fested with  mealy  bug. 
At    present     the     pest 

has  been  quite  destroyed  ;  - 

— indeed,   has  been  for  /     ;, 

some  few  years — but  it 
took  fully  three  years 
of  patient  work  and 
labour  to  get  quite  rid 
of  it.  In  this  case  Fir- 
tree  Oil  was  the  remedy. 
Even  now,  when  fresh 
plants  are  introduced 
they  are  put  in  quaran- 
tine for  a  time,  a  small 
detached  house  being 
used  for  the  purpose, 
and  the  plants  are  con- 
stantly examined  and 
dressed  with  insecticide. 
Petroleum  and  gas-tar 
are  frequently  used  as 
a  winter  dressing,  and 
both  are  dangerous  if 
used  in  a  raw  state. 
The  Vine  having  aporous 

bark  readily  absorbs  the  first-named,  and  the  gas- 
tar,  commonly  known  as  coal-tar,  is  equally  in- 
jurious if  used  at  all  freely.  Only  last  September 
1  saw  a  good  lot  of  canes  that  had  the  previous 
winter  been  painted  with  the  tar,  and  the  rods 
were  fast  dying  ;  only  here  and  there  was  there 
any  life,  afew  weak  back-growths  showing  near  the 
base  that  had  escaped  the  dressing.  Coal-tar  in 
its  natural  state  is  most  injurious,  and  though 
safe  when  mixed  with  a  liberal  quantity  of  clay — 
say,  one  part  of  the  tar  to  nine  of  clay,  the  latter 
having  been  puddled  and  thoroughly  mixed 
with  the  tar  by  the  hands,  using  boiling  water 
so  that  it  becomes  like  thick  paint  and  allowed 
to  eool  before  using— I  would  much  rather  rely 
upon  what  may  be  termed  simple  measures. 

One  correspondent  asks  for  a  wash,  not  paint, 
and  I  think  washing  the  rods  when  in  a  dormant 
state  will  go  a  long  way  to  get  rid  of  the  pest 
and,  at  the  same  time,  do  no  harm.  For  some 
seasons  nicotine  dressings  were  eflfectual  and 
quite  safe.  Nicotine  insecticide  is  a  splendid 
destroyer  of  mealy  bug,  but  the  proportions 
should  not  be  exceeded  which  are  advised  by  the 
makers,  and  the  Vines  syringed  afterwards  with 
tepid  water.  The  insecticide  must  be  thoroughly 
rubbed  into  the  bark  and  rough  portions  of  the 
Vine,  but  very  lightly  on  the  new  wood  of  the 
past  year's  growth,  as  this  part  of  the  Vine  can 
readily  be  cleansed  with  tepid  water.  I  have 
great  faith  in  liquid  soap  nicotine.  We  now 
come  to  petroleum.  This  should  always  be  used 
in  a  soluble  condition,  as  then  it  is  evenly  dis- 
tributed. In  a  raw  state  the  oil  does  not  mix 
readily,  but  it  is  now  prepared  for  sale  ready 
for  use  as  soluble  paraffin  oil.  Raw  petroleum 
can,   however,   be    made  soluble  by  mixing    it 


with  soft  soap,  say,  at  the  rate  of  half  a  pound  of 
soap  and  one  wineglassful  of  the  petroleum  to 
one  gallon  of  tepid  water. 

I  advise  thoroughly  washing  at  this  time  of 
year  all  portions  of  the  house,  paint  and  wood- 
work with  the  mixture  and  covering  all  brick- 
work with  fresh  lime  ;  indeed,  no  part  ot  the 
house  must  be  omitted,  as  even  the  soil  is  a 
resting-place,  and  the  surface  should  therefore 
be  scraped  away  and  great  care  taken  to  cleanse 
the  stems  of  the  Vine  near  the  soil.  If 
possible,  a  great  saving  of  labour  in  the  future 
will  be  elFected  if  the  wood  and  iron  work  are 
painted,  as,  no  matter  how  carefully  the  washing 
is  done,  the  pest  reappears  and  must  be  dealt  with 
at  once.  By  painting  many  insects  are  doomed 
that  otherwise  may  escape,  and  the  few  that 
may  have  escaped  can  be  dealt  with  by  going 
over  the  Vines  twice  or  thrice  a  week  with  a 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


SHKUBBY 


THEIR 


T 


THE   NEW   ODONTOGLOSSUM   ABDENTISSTMCM    NOKMAN   COOKSOy.      (Sinijle  /lower,  natural  size.) 

small  paint-brush  and  some  of  the  soluble  paraffin 
in  a  saucer  early  in  the  season,  just  as  growth  is 
active.  This  done  and  a  thorough  winter 
cleansing  as  advised  given  the  following  season, 
the  enemy  will  be  got  rid  of.  If  possible,  do  not 
force  badly-affected  Vines  for  a  season  or  two  ; 
then  the  rest  and  cleansing  advised  can  be  more 
thorough.  G.  Wythes. 

APPLES  AND  CANKER. 
According  to  my  experience.  King  of  the 
Pippins  is  liable  to  canker  very  much  when 
worked  upon  the  Crab  stock  in  heavy  soil  if  the 
roots  are  not  kept  near  the  surface.  This  is  one 
of  the  varieties  that  can  be  depended  upon  to 
fruit  every  year.  Trees  of  it  planted  in  the 
ordinary  way  will  show  canker  the  second  year 
when  growing  in  heavy,  cold  soil ;  but  by  lifting 
them  on  to  the  surface  and  mounding  the  roots 
up  the  canker  will  be  checked,  the  trees  making 
a  clean,  free  growth  almost  directly  afterwards. 
My  experience  of  canker  in  Apple  trees  is  that  it 
is  the  result  of  an  unsuitable  soil,  aggravated  by 
deep  planting.  E. 


ODONTOGLOSSUM      ARDENTIS- 

SIMUM  NORMAiN  COOKSON. 
This  new  addition  to  the  Odontoglossums  was 
described  on  page  46  of  our  issue  for  the  23rd  inst. 
The  flowers  were  chiefly  remarkable  for  their 
regular  form  and  markings,  the  plant  being 
apparently  of  a  vigorous  character.  It  was 
shown  before  the  Orchid  committee  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  on  the  12th  inst. 
by  N.  C.  Cookson,  Esq.,  and  gained  an  award 
of  merit, 


SPIR.EAS    AND 
CULTURE. 

Continued   from   page    43.) 
HE    spring-flowering   group   really   re- 
quires  very    little   pruning,   what  is 
done  being  chiefly  thinning  after  the 
flowers  are  over.    The  autumn  group, 
ontheotherhand,rau3t  beprunedhard 
if  the  best  results  are  to  be  obtained, 
and  this  pruning  should  be  accomplished  between 
Christmas  and   the  early  days  of  March.     The 
clumps  should  be  well  thinned  out,  all  weak  shoots 
being  cut  clean  away.     The  strong  shoots  should 
then  be  cut  down  to  within  6  inches  or  so  of  the 
base  of  the  previous  year's  growth.      This  will 
suffice   for   most   of  the 
sorts,     but    with    such 
species  as  lindleyana  and 
Aitchisonii,  which  when 
mature   form     bushes 
S     feet    to    10    feet    in 
height,  a  modification  of 
the    principle   is   neces- 
sary.    The  wood  in  the 
ease  of  these  two  sorts 
may  be  left  considerably 
longer,   especially  when 
the  branches  are  strong  ; 
it,  however,   does    good 
to  go    over    the    plants 
and  shorten   last   year's 
shoots,    say,    from    one- 
third  to   halfway   back. 
The    species    known   as 
discolor,  or  arirefolia,  as 
it   is   sometimes   called, 
requires     little     or     no 
pruning,  except  an  occa- 
sional thinning.      Alto- 
getherthere  are  upwards 
of    100    sorts   to    select 
from  ;    of  this    number, 
however,   the   following 
are    worthy  representa- 
tives  for  general   culti- 
vation. 
SpKING  -  FLOWERING    VARIETIES. 
■?  arguta. — This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
of  all  flowering  shrubs,  and  would  certainly  be 
given  a  place  in  the  best  dozen  shrubs  were  a 
census  taken.      It  grows   6  feet  or  7  feet  high 
and   bears  glistening    white    flowers    with    the 
greatest  freedom  from  the  end  of  March  through 
April.       It    is    excellent     for     specimen     beds, 
isolated  plants  or  for  forcing.     It  is  most  easily 
increased  by  means  of  layers. 

if.  hracteata.  —  This  is  a  strong-growing  Japa- 
nese species  which  blooms  about  the  end  of  May 
and  early  June.  The  flowers  are  white  and 
borne  in  profusion.  It  forms  a  rather  large, 
dense  bush. 

S.  canescens  is  a  Himalayan  species  of 
peculiarly  graceful  habit,  with  small  greyish 
leaves  and  a  profusion  of  white  flowers,  which 
appear  in  May  and  June.  It  grows  from  7  feet 
to  9  feet  in  height. 

S.  Henryii.  — Among  recent  introductions  this 
stands  out  conspicuously  as  being  a  first-rate 
shrub.  It  is  of  strong  growth  and  forms  long, 
arching  branches,  which  bear  a  profusion  of  white 
flowers  in  June. 

»S.  media  is  another  free-flowering  white- 
blossomed  sort.  It  grows  freely  and  is  one  of 
the  best  of  all  for  forcing.  In  some  gardens  it 
is  known  under  the  name  of  confusa. 

(S.  prunifoUa  flore-pleno. — This  is  a  double- 
flowered  form  of  a  Japanese  species.  Unfortu- 
nately, the  flowers  are  formed  very  early  and 
they  are,  consequently,  frequently  damaged  by 
frost. 

S.  Thunhergii  and  S.  van  Houttei  are  very 
beautiful  Spiraeas,  the  former  for  its  foliage  in 
autumn.     S.  van  Houttei  grows  to  a  height  of 


54 


THE    GARDEN. 


[January  30,  1909. 


S  feet  or  9  feet.     Like  the  former  plant  it  has 
white  flowers  ard  blossoms  freely. 

Summer  and  Aotumn  Flowering  Varieties. 

In  this  group  a  greater  variety  of  colour  is 
found,  white,  cream,  pink  and  red  being  repre- 
sented. 

<S.  Aitchisonii  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
all.  It  is  a  native  of  Afghanistan  and  grows 
8  feet  or  it  feet  high.  The  leaves  are  large  and 
pinnate,  the  flowers  white  and  borne  in  panicles 
up  to  Ih  feet  or  2  feet  in  length."  ,'   i    i    c«i 

S.  discolor. — This  is  a  strong-growing  shrub 
from  North  America.  It  is  quite  distinct  from 
all  other  sorts  and  is  conspicuous  by  reason  of 
its  panicles  of  cream  blossoms. 

iS.  Douglasii  is  a  dense-growing  sort  with  stiff, 
upright     inflorescences     of     red 
flowers.    It  may  be  used  for  the 
wild  garden  or  for  cover  work. 

S.  japonica  is  a  well-known 
species  growing  1  foot  to  2  feet 
in  height.  It  is  remarkable  for 
its  floriferous  character,  the 
flowers  being  red  in  colour  and 
borne  in  large,  flattened  heads. 
There  are  numerous  varieties,  of 
which  the  best  are  alba,  with 
white  flowers  ;  Mrs.  Anthony 
Waterer  and  ruberrima,  with 
deep  red  blooms ;  and  glahrata, 
a  very  strong  grower  with  larger 
inflorescences  than  the  type. 

S.  lindhyana  is  a  similar- 
looking   plant   to   S.   Aitchisonii, 

but  is  rather   coarser    and    the 

flowers  are  creaia  in  colour. 
S.  Menzieeii  is  a  strong-growing 

North     American     plant,      with 

dense,     upright     heads     of     red 

flowers.     There  are  several  varie- 
ties, of  which  the  best  are  lenneana 

and  triumphans. 

S.     salicifolia     completes    the 

selection.    It  is  a  very  ornamental 

shrub,  with  large  panicles  of  white 

or  pinkish  blooms.     The  variety 

paniculata  bears  exceptionally  fine 

heads  of  flowers.     This  and  the 

last-named  may  be   used  in  the 

wild  garden.     With  this  selection 

it  is  possible  to  have  Spiraeas  in 

bloom  in  the  shrubbery  from  the 

latter  end  of  February  until  the 

end  of  September,  while  for  five 

months  of  the  time  a  good  dis- 
play of  flowers  will  be  produced. 
W.  Dallimore. 


adapted  to  the  use  of  shrubs.  But  where  the 
design  is  a  large,  bold  one,  and  the  beds  large  and 
not  of  a  fantastic  shape,  flowering  shrubs 
could  be  used  with  telling  effect  in  combination 
with  other  plants  and  bulbs.  I  am  afraid  I 
cannot  agree  with  "A.  W."  in  recommending 
Garrya  elliptica  or  any  other  evergreen  shrub  I 
know.  I  have  never  thought  Cydonias  successful 
plants ;  Ribes  are  certainly  very  cheap  and 
pretty,  but  there  are  many  other  things  I  use  in 
preference  to  them.  Daphne  Mezereum  I  oinnot 
recommend  ;  it  may  succeed  well  with  "  A.  W.," 
but  here  it  is  a  very  wretched  plant.  Neither  do 
I  recommend  Hamamelis  arborea  ;  the  habit  of 
growth  is  too  awkward.  Chimonanthus  fragrans 
is  deliciously  scented,  but  the  flowers  are  not 
showy  enough  for  spring  bedding. 


M.   D.,"   on 


SHRUBS  IN  SPRING 
BEDDING. 
I  HAVE  been  much  interested  in 
reading  "A.  W.'s"  remarks  on 
the  spring  bedding  prize  essay, 
page  618,  Vol.  LXXII.,  and  I 
thought  the  Editor's  offer  to  him 
was  likely  to  bring  out  some 
useful  hints  on  this  very  im- 
portant subject ;  next  comes  "  E 
page  630,  criticising  "  A.  W.'s"  style  of  spring 
bedding,  also  telling  him  to  be  practical  in  his 
next  article.  I  have  now  read  "A.  W.'s'' 
second  article,  which  is  rather  long,  but  I  feel 
I  can  agree  with  him  on  many  points  in  it,  and 
I  would  like  to  make  a  few  remarks  on  this  very 
important  branch  ef  gardening. 

In  the  first  place,  the  gardener's  ai  m  should  be 
to  raise  those  kinds  of  plants  which  are  suitable 
for  the  beds,  borders,  &c.,  he  is  called  upon  to 
fill,  and,  whether  the  beds  are  close  under  the 
windows  of  the  mansion  or  a  long  distance 
away,  the  style  of  the  building  is  a  point 
that  must  be  considered. 

I  believe  in  the  judicious  use  of  a  variety  of 
plants,  if  it  can  be  done,  but  in  the  majority  of 


THE   DWARF  CHIMNEY   BELLFLOWEIR  (C.  PTRAMIDALTS  COMPACTA).     (See  pane  5.'.) 


A  very  large  number  of  spring-flowering  shrubs 
are  grown  here  for  the  spring  flower  garden,  but 
are  not  used  in  the  beds,  for  the  simple  reason 
that  the  beds  are  not  adapted  for  them,  or  I 
should  use  them  freely  for  spring  bedding 
purposes,  as  I  am  confident  they  would  be 
extremely  telling  in  large  beds. 

The  shrubs  I  have  found  to  do  well  are  bush 
Cherries.  All  the  varieties,  both  double  and 
single  flowered,  are  good,  and  a  well-grown 
bush  Morello  Cherry  in  full  flower  is  a  charming 
sight.  The  Crabs  are  all  good  and  make  nice 
bushes.  The  ones  I  like  best  are  Pyrus  flori- 
bunda,  P.  f.  atrosanguinea,  P.  speotabilis  flore- 
pleno,  P.  ooronaria  florepleno,  P.  neidwitzkiana 
and  P.  Malus  Bertinii ;  the  latter  is  very  pretty 
just  as  the  flowers  are  ready  to  burst  open.     I 


beds   on  lawns   the  design  of  the  beds   is   not   have  also  grown  a  very  great  number  of   the 


freest-flowering  Apples  ;  these  give  lovely  effects, 
but  I  am  now  giving  the  preference  to  the  Crabs 
1  have  mentioned.  Forsythia  viridissima,  F. 
suspensa,  F.  Fortunei  and  F.  Sieboldii  are  also 
excellent.  The  double  -  flowered  Peaches  are 
splendid,  both  the  crimson  and  rose,  and  the 
bitter  Almond  need  not  be  left  out — it  is  both 
early  and  beautiful ;  but  the  double  white 
Peach  is  not  vigorous.  Then  among  the  Prunuses 
we  have  some  interesting,  easily-grown  and 
free-flowering  subjects.  Those  I  prefer  are 
Prunus  Pissardii,  P.  triloba,  P.  sinensis  alba- 
pleno,  P.  s.  rosea-pleno  and  P.  spinosa  flore- 
pleno. Some  of  the  early-flowered  Spirieas  are 
useful.  I  can  recommend  Spirfea  confusa,  S. 
Thunbergii  and  S.  prunifolia  florepleno.  Other 
shrubs  could  be  mentioned,  but  spice  does  not 
permit  of  too  many ;  still,  I 
would  not  like  to  leave  out  the 
deciduous  Magnolias.  These  are 
most  lovely  subjects  where  they 
are  a  little  protected  from  spring 
frost.  They  are  rather  expensive, 
and  on  that  account  do  not  come 
within  the  reach  of  all.  Here 
several  varieties  are  grown,  and 
the  ones  I  prefer  are  Magnolia 
eonspicua,  M.  o.  alba  superba, 
M.  0.  soulangeana,  M.  stellata  and 
M.  s.  rosea. 

Now  I  am  not  going  to  say 
these  plants  could  be  lifted  from 
the  open  ground  and  planted 
straightway  into  the  bed  year 
after  year  and  be  a  success. 
Some  might,  such  as  Forsythia 
and  Ribes,  though  I  rather  doubt 
"  A.  W. "  on  this  point.  But  here 
I  will  preach  what  I  practise, 
with  the  hope  of  being  con- 
sidered practical,  which  I  am  sure 
"  E.  M.  D."  expects  me  to  be. 
In  these  gardens  are  grown  year 
after  year  about  400  of  these 
shrubs.  To  start  with,  suitable 
small  plants  are  bought  about 
February  (they  can  be  had  very 
cheap  as  small  plants),  the  roots 
are  pruned  very  hard  back,  and 
they  are  then  potted  into  pots 
ranging  from  8^  inches  to 
12  inches,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  plant.  The  compost  I  use  is 
good  fibrous  loam,  well-decayed 
leaf-mould,  with  a  little  wood 
ashes  and  bone-meal  added  ;  but 
the  roots  of  the  Magnolias  are 
not  out  back,  and  these  would 
require  a  pot  to  take  the  ball 
without  much  pulling  about. 
After  potting  they  are  all  plunged 
in  a  bed  of  ashes  in  a  very  open, 
sunny  place  and  well  attended  to 
during  the  summer.  By  this 
method  of  culture  flower-buds 
will  form  very  freely,  and  as  a 
rule  they  will  most  of  them  go 
from  four  to  six  years  without 
any  further  potting  if  carefully 
looked  after  as  regards  feeding  and  top-dressing. 
I  have  many  plants  at  the  present  time  which 
have  been  in  the  same  pot  for  that  number  of 
years,  all  in  perfect  health  and  carrying  masses  of 
flowers  every  spring. 

If  I  had  large,  suitable  beds,  I  should  certainly 
use  these  plants  in  combination  with  dwarfer, 
spring  bedding  flowers,  sinking  them  in  the  beds 
just  sufficiently  to  hide  the  rims  of  the  pots,  then 
covering  the  surface  of  the  bed  with  other  suit- 
able plants  and  bulbs.  In  this  garden  they  are 
plunged  in  suitable  places  on  the  lawn  in  large 
and  small  groups,  let  in  the  turf  j  ust  sufficiently  to 
hide  the  rims  of  the  pots,  and  when  the  summer 
bedding  plants  come  to  take  their  place  these 
shrubs  go  back  again  to  their  summer  quarters. 

Again  going  back  to  spring  bedding  plants,  I 
consider  the  Polyanthus  most  useful  (if  a  good 


January  30,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


55 


strain,  aueh  as  Mr.  John  Crooks  and  a  few 
others  have  worked  up  for  us,  is  obtained)  ;  no 
other  plant  will  equal  them  for  spring  bedding, 
taking  into  consideration  their  earliness,  free 
flowering,  duration  of  flowering  and  variety  of 
colour.  They  are  quite  capable  of  making  a 
grand  display  themselves.  I  consider  it  bad 
taste  to  mix  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  or  any  other 
bulbs  among  them ;  neither  do  I  agree  with 
mixing  any  sort  of  bulbs  among  Wallflowers. 
Some  like  Wallflowers  in  separate  colours,  and  I 
quite  agree  that  they  are  very  beautiful  that 
way,  but  I  must  confess  I  much  prefer  a  bed  of 
mixed  Wallflowers  ;  there  is  something  so  very 
bright  and  cheerful  about  them.  Should  our 
employers  deny  us  the  packets  of  bulbs  from 
Holland,  we  have  nothing  to  fear,  as  there  are 
plenty  of  easily-raised,  cheap  spring-flowering 
plants  ;  but  personally  I  should  say,  let  us  have 
both  as  long  as  we  can,  and  if  po3sible  the  shrubs 
also. 
Sandhurst  Lod()e.  W.  J.  Townsend. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN 


SAXIFRAGA   LENGULATA  LANTO- 

SCANA. 

SAXIFEAGA  LINGULATA  is  clo;ely 
allied  to  the  charming  S.  coehlearis, 
but  has  larger  rosettes  of  leaves  and 
larger  flowers  on  taller  stems.  It  is 
found  on  calcareous  rooks  in  Northern 
Italy  and  the  adjoining  countries, 
and  enjoys  a  sunny,  well-exposed  position, 
planted  in  gritty  soil  and  packed  tightly 
between  stones.  A  much  superior  plant  is 
the  subject  of  the  accompanying  illustration, 
S.  lingulata  lantosoana,  called  the  Foxbrush 
Rockfoil  or  Maiden's  Wreath.  It  is  found  in 
the  Maritime  Alps,  and,  growing  in  vertical 
fissures,  sends  out  the  drooping  flower-spikes  on 
which  the  flowers  are  crowded,  mostly  on  the 
upper  side.  Remaining  a  long  time  in  flower,  it 
is  at  once  one  of  the  most  elegant  as  well  as 
one  of  the  most  valuable  plants  belonging  to  this 
section  of  crusted-leaved  Saxifrages. 

Offsets  are  produced  in  plenty,  and  the  plants 
may  be  easily  increased  by  division  soon  after 
flowering.  The  severed  pieces  should  be  potted 
in  very  gritty  soil  and  be  kept  in  a  close  shaded 
frame  for  a  week  or  two  till  they  have  begun  to 
root.  Then  more  air  can  be  given,  and  in  time 
the  light  left  ofi'  altogether.  Seeds  also  are  pro- 
duced and  germinate  freely,  but  unless  care  is 
taken  it  is  liable  to  be  hybridised,  especially  if 
other  species  are  growing  near.       W.  iRviNfi. 


LATE  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
The  late  varieties  of  Chrysanthemums  have 
passed  out  of  flower  earlier  than  usual,  and  this 
is  probably  due  to  the  exceptionally  warm 
weather  experienced  for  two  or  three  weeks  just 
prior  to  the  housing  of  the  plants.  Few  varieties 
seem  capable  of  extending  their  flowering  season 
many  days  in  the  new  year.  Framfield  Pink, 
which  is  one  of  the  latest  of  all,  has  been  very 
disappointing  these  last  two  seasons.  Instead  of 
the  beautiful  colour  which  characterised  it  as 
probably  the  best  of  the  late  pinks,  there  is  a 
variety  of  tints  on  each  plant,  ranging  from  deep 
pink  to  pure  white.  This  variety  has  always 
been  more  or  less  inconsistent  in  regard  to  colour, 
but  it  seems  to  get  worse,  notwithstanding  special 
cultural  treatment. 

A.  J.  Balfour  is  a  good  Christmas  variety  and 
of  splendid  growth.  Its  lovely  pink  colouring  is 
very  attractive  under  artificial  light,  which  makes 
it  invaluable  for  dinner-table  decorations.  Tuxedo 
may  be  relied  upon  to  flower  till  the  first  week  in 
January.  It  is  exceptionally  useful  for  cutting 
for  the  furnishing  of  large  glasses,  as  it  grows  to 
a  height  of  5  feet  or  6  feet,  and  its  beautiful 
bronze  and  gold  colour  is  very  effective.     The 


white  and  yellow  Thomsons  are  to  my  mind  the 
best  late  varieties  we  have  ;  they  keep  fresh 
either  when  cut  or  on  the  plants  longer  than  any 
other.  There  is  a  difficulty  in  securing  enough 
cuttings  of  these  two  varieties,  but  this  may  be 
overcome  by  saving  some  of  the  old  stools.  Shake 
them  out  and  repot  them  in  the  spring,  then  cut 
them  down  in  the  autumn,  when  cuttings  will 
appear  in  plenty.  We  have  lately  discarded 
several  of  the  old  sorts  which  used  to  do  duty  for 
late  work. 

Soyal  Gardens,  Frogmore.  E.  Harriss. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

NOTES  ON  NOVELTIES.— Last 
season  saw  the  exhibition,  either  at 
one  of  the  great  shows  or  in  the 
splendid  trial  of  varieties  so  ad- 
mirably conducted  at  the  University 
College,  Reading,  by  Mr.  Foster  on 
behalf  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society,  of 
some  of  the  finest  varieties  that  have  yet  been 


abundant  crops,  so  that  all  will  be  able  to  have 
their  desires  fulfilled  next  year. 

Now  for  a  note  on  a  few  of  the  procurable  (at 
the  time  of  writing)  varieties.  Mrs.  Andrew 
Ireland  may  be  easily  and  simply  described  as  a 
beautifully  waved  form  of  Jeannie  Gordon ;  the 
flower  is  immense  in  size  and  of  splendid  sub- 
stance. The  King  is  a  waved  King  Edward,  and 
is  a  grand  thing  without  a  doubt.  Both  of  these 
were  introduced  by  Dobbies.  If  they  are  un- 
procurable, purchasers  might  do  worse  than 
try  Apple  Blossom  Spencer  for  the  former  and 
King  Edward  Spencer  for  the  latter.  This  does 
not  mean  that  I  consider  them  identical ;  as  a 
matter  of  fact,  I  have  not  seen  them  growing 
together,  and  simply  recommend  this  course  from 
the  published  descriptions. 

The  reliable  Unwin  has  failed  many  of  us  this 
time,  and  we  have  called  down  vengeance  on  his 
devoted  head  because  we  could  not  get  the 
refined  Zephyr.  Why  did  he  not  get  a  big  stock 
nf  it  ? — it  is  destined  to  become  a  groat  favourite. 
We  shall  have  to  fall  back  upon  Mrs.  Bieberstedt 
or  Mrs.  Walter  Carter,   both  of  which  are  very 


SAXIFRAGA  LINGULATA  LANTOSCAKA   IK  THE  ROYAL   HARDENS,    KEW. 


brought  forward.  Those  who  saw  them  revelled 
in  their  distinctness  and  beauty  of  form  and 
colour,  the  notes  that  were  made  numbered 
hundreds,  and  as  many  note-takers  have  been 
since  disappointed.  The  plants  grew  and  flowered 
with  a  freedom  that  was  delightful  ;  but,  alas  ! 
they  did  not  complete  their  life-history  in  the 
mueh-to-be-desired  manner  of  producing  a  heavy 
crop  of  seeds,  and  some  of  the  very  best  gave 
such  poor  returns  in  this  direction  that  it  was 
impossible,  in  view  of  the  immense  demand,  to 
think  for  one  moment  of  distribution. 

The  rich  George  Stark  will  not  come  into  the 
gardens  of  eager  growers  until  the  season  of 
1910,  while  the  equally  superb  Nancy  Perkin  is 
due  to  arrive  at  the  same  time.  It  is  quite 
certain  that  the  reception  that  will  then  be 
accorded  to  them  will  be  such  as  has  never 
been  previously  given  to  Sweet  Peas  in  this 
country. 

Although  the  best  of  the  other  novelties  have 
been  brought  forward,  it  is  regrettable  that  the 
stocks  are  so  short  that  it  is  certain  the  supply 
will  not  be  equal  to  the  demand,  and  it  is  much 
to  be  hoped  that  the  seed  season  of  this  year  will 
be  favourable  to  the  ripening  and  harvesting  of 


charming  waved  lavender  varieties.  Another 
lavender  that  must  enter  into  our  calculations  is 
Lavender  George  Herbert,  for  the  flower  is  very 
large  and  the  shape  excellent.  It  is  in  every 
sense  of  the  word  a  very  beautiful,  almost 
perfect,  variety.  Those  who  like  the  flakes 
will  have  to  obtain  Jack  Unwin,  which  is 
rose  on  white  and  a  grand  grower  and  bloomer. 
Baker's  Scarlet  promises  wonderfully  well,  but 
the  flower  is  smooth  and  the  present  demand  is 
for  waved  blooms.  Bath's  Josephine  Barnard,  a 
rich  rose  Gladys  Unwin,  should  have  a  great 
future  if  it  is  as  good  as  the  last-named.  Robert 
Bolton  offers  Kitty  Clive,  a  pale  St.  George  and 
George  Baxter,  a  waved  maroon,  which  ought  to  be 
good  considering  whence  they  come.  The  never- 
failing  Eokford  has  not  as  many  novelties  as  we 
have  known  him  catalogue,  but  one  may  judge  from 
their  descriptions  that  all  are  well  worth  growing. 
Just  one  or  two  words  about  seeds.  Each 
season  someone  wants  to  know  whether  old  seed 
is  as  reliable  as  new.  Let  it  be  definitely  known 
that  it  is  not.  It  may  grow  well  or  it  may  not, 
and  considering  the  price  at  which  seeds  can  be 
purchased  nowadays,  it  is  a  decided  error  for 
anyone  to  rely  upon  old  stock.  Spencer. 


56 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[January  30,  1909. 


QARDEN I NG      FOR      'BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

VEGETABLE  GARDEN. —The  first 
sowing  of  Longpod  Broad  Beans  may 
now  be  made,  and  if  given  good 
treatment  they  will  produce  their 
crop  nearly,  if  not  quite,  as  early  as 
those  sown  in  the  autumn.  Sow  in 
double  rows  S  feet  apart,  leaving  a  space  of 
!l   inches  between  the  two  rows,  and  place  the 


-Ktawov-j 


1  -  PORTION  OF  VINE  SHOWING  TWO  LATERAL  GROWTHS 
"  SPl'K"  I'RUNEI>,  THAT  IS,  CUT  BACK  TO  TWO  "  EVES" 
AND  A  THIKTl  LATERAL  GROWTH  BEFORE  BEINi: 
PRUNED. 

seeds  so  that  each  plant  will  be  about  6  inehi'b 
from  its  neighbour.  Two  inches  or  3  inches  is 
the  proper  depth  to  sow,  and  if  mice  are  prevalent 
it  will  be  wise  to  damp  the  seeds  and  then  roll 
them  in  red  lead.  For  an  early  crop  of  Peas  sow 
in  the  warmest  position  in  the  garden,  employing 
a  round-seeded  variety  for  the  purpose.  The  bed 
must  be  thoroughly  drained,  and  if  the  soil  is  of 
a  clayey  nature  a  trench  0  inches  wide  and 
(i  inches  deep  should  be  made,  filling  in  3  inches 
of  this  with  a  lighter  soil  mixture  in  which  to 
place  the  seeds.  After  covering  the  latter  with 
an  inch  or  so  of  the  prepared  soil  a  slight  trench 
will  be  left,  and  this  will  afford  a  little  shelter 
to  the  seedlings  when  they  appear.  Old  potting 
soil  when  sifted  answers  well  for  this  work. 
Mustard  and  Cress  may  now  be  raised  with  ease 
in  a  warm  frame  or  greenhouse  ;  use  shallow 
boxes  filled  with  sandy  soil  and  sow  the  seeds 
thickly  on  a  perfectly  level  surface,  merely 
pressing  them  into  the  soil  with  a  flat  board  or 
the  bottom  of  a  clean  pot ;  do  not  cover  them 
with  soil.  Sow  the  Cress  three  days  earlier  than 
the  Mustard,  as  it  is  of  slower  growth. 

Oree7»Aowe.— Now  is  a  good  time  to  repot  the 
ornamental  Asparagus  where  the  plants  require 
it.  First  clear  away  any  old,  useless  growths  that 
may  be  present,  and  also  any  insect  pests.  A 
good  potting  soil  is  composed  of  two  parts  fibrous 
loam,  used  rather  rough,  half  a  part  each  of  good 
peat  and  well-rotted  manure,  and  one  part  of 
coarse  sand,  with  a  quart  of   fine  bone-meal  or 


other  approved  fertiliser  to  each  barrow-load  of 
soil.  In  many  oases  a  top  -  dressing  only  is 
required,  as  when  the  roots  are  healthy  they  do 
not  object  to  a  somewhat  restricted  area,  pro- 
viding, of  course,  that  feeding  is  resorted  to  in 
the  summer.  For  top-dressing  remove  an  inch 
or  more  of  the  old  surface  soil  and  replace  it  with 
new,  taking  care  to  make  the  latter  firm.  When 
repotting  mature  or  well-developed  specimens 
remove  the  worst  of  the  old  soil,  and  so  get  the 
plant  into  a  fresh  pot  of  similar  size  to  the  old 
one  if  possible.  After  this  disturbance  the  plants 
should  be  placed  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  house 
and  watered  with  the  utmost  care  until  new 
growth  is  well  advanced.  Seeds  should  now  be 
sown  of  Cannas,  Grevillea  robusta,  Petunias  and 
Marguerite  Carnations,  as  all  will  come  in  well 
for  decoration  later  on,  either  for  the  greenhouse 
or  for  the  open  beds.  Where  Petunias  are 
required  for  the  latter  purpose,  however,  the 
sowing  should  be  deferred  until  the  middle  of 
February. 

Flower  Garden. — Push  on  with  all  possible 
speed  any  division  or  replanting  that  has  not  been 
done  in  the  herbaceous  border,  as  the  sooner  this 
is  done  now  the  better  for  the  plants.  Edges  of 
lawns  and  verges  should  be  trimmed  neatly,  as 
there  will  not  now  be  much  danger  of  their 
getting  broken.  Replace  old,  worn-out  labels  with 
new  ones  and  attend  to  any  odd  work  that  can 
be  done,  otherwise  when  the  busy  season  com- 
mences many  small  but  important  tasks  will 
probably  be  left  undone. 

Window  and  Room  Plants.  — With  the  lengthen- 
ing days  these  will  need  rather  more  water,  but 
they  still  must  be  attended  to  in  this  respect  with 
the  greatest  caution.  It  is  too  early  yet  to  attempt 
repotting,  as  growth  will  not  be  very  active. 
Bulbs  in  pots  may  be  brought  in  as  required, 
providing  they  are  well  rooted  ;  place  them  in  a 
semi-dark  position  at  first  until  the  tops  are 
green,  after  which  they  should  be  given  the 
lightest  position  possible,  otherwise  growth  will 
become  attenuated  and  weak.  Fuchsias  that 
have  been  resting  may  have  the  lateral  branches 
pruned  back  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  main 
stem  and  then  stood  in  the  light  to  start,  giving 
the  soil  a  good  soaking  with  tepid  water.  When 
growth  is  plainly  visible  the  old  soil  may  be 
shaken  away  from  the  roots  and  the  plants 
repotted  in  new. 

Fruit  Garden. — Remove  all  weeds  from  the 
Strawberry  beds  and  mulch  between  the  plants 
with  partially-decayed  stable  manure.  The  food 
contained  in  this  will  be  washed  down  to  the 
roots  of  the  plants  and  be  ready  for  them  when 
growth  commences.  Where  slugs  are  prevalent 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  give  the  bed  a  thorough 
dusting  with  soot  before  putting  on  the  manure, 
taking  care,  however,  to  keep  it  from  the  hearts 
of  the  plants.  H. 


HOW    TO    PRUNE    VINES. 

Readeks  of  The  Garden  who  are  beginners  in  the 
culture  of  the  Vine  make  frequent  requests  for 
information  as  to  how  to  deal  with  their  canes  at 
different  periods  of  the  year.  At  no  period  is 
there  a  keener  demand  for  information  than  in  the 
earliest  months,  and  just  now  the  chief  enquiry 
is,  "  How  should  I  prune  my  Vines  '!  "  During 
the  latter  part  of  December  and  throughout 
January  it  is  the  chief  seasonable  operation  to 
prune  and  cleanse  Vines  as  soon  as  the  leaves 
are  off  and  the  Grapes  out.  There  is  a  tendency 
on  the  part  of  most  amateurs  and  beginners 
to  delay  pruning  their  Vines  rather  too  long,  and 


in  consequence  of  this  delay  the  late  pruning 
causes  bleeding  and  a  loss  of  sap  in  the  early 
spring. 

Pruning  is  not  nearly  so  ditiioult  as  many 
novices  are  disposed  to  think.  To  understand 
the  method  the  application  of  a  little  thought 
and  common  sense  is,  of  course,  required.  All 
Grape  Vines  should  be  pruned  without  further 
delay;  not  a  day  should  be  lost  before  proceeding 
with  this  important  work.  First  of  all  we  will 
suppose  the  roof  of  the  vinery  is  well  furnished 
with  several  main  rods  from  one  Vine  or  from 
more  than  one,  but  in  each  case  the  treatment 
will  be  the  same.  The  whole  of  the  Vine  should 
be  pruned  at  one  operation,  carrying  out  and 
completing  the  work  on  the  same  day.  The 
method  of  pruning  which  we  show  in  the 
accompanying  illustrations  may  appear  to  be  a 
very  drastic  one,  but  it  is  the  only  satisfactory 
means  of  maintaining  the  Vines  in  good  condition 
and  of  ensuring  a  supply  of  desirable  fruit. 

Fig.  1  shows  part  of  the  main  stem  of  a 
Vine  a  few  years  old  with  a  lateral  or  side 
growth  made  during  last  summer.  This  lateral 
growth  must  be  cut  back  hard  to  within  one  or 
two  "eyes"  or  buds  that  will  soon  burst  into 
growth  after  the  pruning  is  completed.  The 
practice  of  pruning  varies  in  the  hands  of  different 
growers.  Some  growers  prefer  to  cut  back 
beyond  the  one  or  two  buds  to  which  we  have 
just  referred,  and  leave  perhaps  not  more  than 
half  an  inch  of  wood  abutting  from  the  main  rods. 
This  practice  is  not  so  popular,  however,  as  the 
method  of  pruning  we  advocate,  which  is  tech- 
nically called  "spur"  pruning.    The  two  "spurs" 


•2  —ANOTHER      EXAMPLE     OF      "  SPUR  "      PRUNING  ;      THIS 
SHOWS     HOW     IT     IS     POSSIBLE     TO     CONTINUE     THIS 
SYSTEM     OF     PRUNING      FOR     MANY     YEARS.       GRAND 
;;         CROPS  OF  GRAPES   ARE   OBTAISEI>   HY  THESE  MEANS. 

seen  above  the  lateral  growth  in  Fig.  1  show 
very  clearly  how  the  pruning  of  the  third  lateral 
growth  should  be  done.  A  close  inspection  of 
the  "  spurs  "  will*reveal  the  two  "  eyes,"  or  dor- 
mant buds,  on  which  the  future  success  of  the 
Vine  depends.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  "  spur" 
is  a  hard  woody  protuberance  from  the  main 
stem    of    the    Vine,    and    that    it    evolves    in 


January  30,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


57 


3.— THIS  SERVES  TO  ILLUSTRATE  THE  OCTTINR  BACK  uK 
LATERAL  GROWTHS  TO  TWO  "EYES,"  COMMONLY 
CALLED  "SPUR"  PRUNING.  NOTE  THE  MARGIN  UF 
GROWTH   KETAINEI>  ABOVE  THE   UPPERMOST   "EYE." 


oonsequenoe  of  the  repeated  annual  cutting  back 
of  the  lateral  growth.  As  we  mentioned  before, 
the  Vine  in  Fig.  1  is  only  a  few  years  old,  but  to 
show  the  effect  of  the  treatment  prescribed  herein 
on  older  Vines  we  show  in  other  illustrations  the 
"  spur  "  system  of  pruning  on  these.  In  each  of 
these  illustrations  (Figs.  2  and  3)  we  show  how 
it  is  possible  to  maintain  a  Vine  for  years  in  good 
health  and  condition  by  a  careful  system  of 
pruning  on  the  "  spur  "  method.  The  Vines  in 
both  these  instances  are  planted  about  i  feet 
apart,  and  when  planted  in  this  fashion  and 
"  spur  '  pruned  in  the  manner  described  above, 
they  should  be  represented  by  capable-looking 
"  spurs,"  as  are  so  well  defined  in  Fig.  3.  These 
illustra"tions  are  of  Grape  Vines  in  the  garden  of 
one  of  the  most  successful  growers  of  these 
luscious  fruits,  and  represent  the  Vines  just  after 
the  pruning  operations. 

For  the  benefit  of  the  beginner  it  may  be  just 
as  well  to  describe  the  character  of  the  buds  that 
develop  after  the  Vine  has  been  pruned.  We 
have  to  remember  that  each  bud  should  have  a 
bunch  of  Grapes  in  embryo  contained  therein,  so 
that  the  more  full  or  plump  the  bud  the  more 
promising  is  its  character.  By  the  same  rule  a 
thin,  pointed  bud  is  less  promising,  so  that  when 
determining  which  of  the  two  buds  to  retain 
(assuming  the  lateral  was  spurred  back  to 
two  "eyes")  preference  should  be  given  to  the 
first  mentioned,  because  of  its  more  promising 
character.  The  weaker  growth  should  be  rubbed 
off  when  it  is  quite  young,  thus  concentrating  all 
the  energies  of  the  roots  on  the  plump  bud 
retained,  which  should  in  due  course  evolve  a 
beautiful  bunch  of  Grapes.  When  pruning  the 
Vines  see  that  a  sharp  knife  is  used  and  cut  back 
with  extreme  care,  leaving  a  fair  margin  above 
the  second  eye.  The  illustration  Fig.  3  aptly 
portrays  how  this  should  be  done. 

In  Fig.  4  we  are  able  to  give  an  illustration  of 
the  method  of  pruning  and  training  a  Grape 
Vine  by  the  extension  method.  This  is  one  of 
the  finest  examples  in  the  country  of  the  well- 
known  Alicante  Grape  grown  by  this  method. 
Note  how  strong  and  vigorous  are  the  growths, 
and  how  the  rods  have  been  trained  to  run  down 
the  whole  length  of  the  vinery.  The  upper  rod 
has  been  trained  in  this  way  because  of  the  lofty 
character  of  the  glass  structure  ;  by  this  means 
the  M'hole  of  the  available  glass  area  has  been 


utilised.  The  lateral  growths  on  one  side  of  the 
rods  only  have  been  retained  and  these  carried 
upwards.  After  the  pruning  has  been  completed 
the  rods  should  be  taken  in  hand  and  loose  por- 
tions of  the  bark  removed  therefrom  :  especially 
round  about  the  spurs  is  this  necessary.     Do  not 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Fkosty  Weather. — Do  not  remove  snow  from 

border    plants   or    trees  and  shrubs,  except   in 

cases  where  the  weight  of   it  is  likely  to  bear 

follow  the  unsatisfactory  practice  of  scraping  off  down  and  break  off  some  of  the  branches.      The 

the  greater  part  of  the  bark  with  a  knife,  as  this    snow  will  not  injure  the  plants  otherwise  ;  but  if 


is  quite  unnecessary  and  contrary  altogether  to 
Nature.  A  thick  covering  of  bark  is  Nature's 
provision  for  protection  in  extremely  cold  weather 
as  well  as  a  boon  in  dry  heat  and  fierce  sunshine, 
and  is  also  a  protection  against  the  injurious 
effects  on  the  sap  when  insecticides  are  used. 
Insect  pests  on  Vines  may  be  got  rid  of  by 
scrubbing  the  rods  with  hot  soapy  water,  doing 
this  in  most  thorough  fashion.  Follow  this  with 
a  dressing  of  Gishurst  Compound  or  any  other 
equally  well-known  and  reliable  dressing. 

HOW    TO    GROW    FINE    CARROTS, 
PARSNIPS    AND    BEET. 
It  is  impossible    to  grow  nice,   evenly  -  shaped 
specimens  of  the  above  kinds  of  roots  in  shallow, 
poor  soil,  and  it  is  also  very  difficult  to  do  so  in 
heavy,  clayey  loam.     In  both  cases  the  ground 


a  severe  frost  prevails  at  the  time  it  will  act  as 
a  protection.  And  if  the  snow  is  gradually 
melted  by  rain  and  the  sky  overcast,  it  will  be 
an  ideal  thaw  as  far  as  the  plants  are  concerned, 
as  then  very  little  harm  will  result.  The  same 
care  must  be  taken  in  dealing  with  bedding-out 
plants  and  other  subjects  under  glass  and 
temporary  coverings.  Do  not  be  tempted  to 
remove  any  portion  of  the  covering  material 
from  plants  which  are  frozen  simply  because  the 
sun  may  be  shining  brightly.  If  thus  exposed, 
frozen  plants  will  either  be  killed  or  badly 
damaged.  The  sun's  rays  would  scorch  up  the 
frozen  foliage.  When  plants  are  in  this  con- 
dition keep  on  the  coverings ;  do  not  permit 
light — especially  sunlight — and  air  to  reach  them 
until  the  frost  has  entirely  gone.  It  would  be 
safer  to  leave  on  the  mats  or  straw  for  three 
days  after  the  outside  thaw  is  complete,  as  the 


should  be  deeply  trenched  in  the  autumn  ;  but  \  gradual  thaw  under  protecting  material  is  slow. 

every  gardener  will  not  be  fortunate  enough  to  '      "  "  "  " 

have  such  trenched  ground  to  deal  with  at  the 

present  time,  so  I  will  give  a  few  hints  on  the 

proper  treatment  of  neglected  ground.     No  time 

should  be  lost  in  getting  the  soil  trenched  to  a 

depth  of  at  least  2  feet.     The  subsoil  must  be 

left  below,  but  it  must  be  broken  up  thoroughly, 

so  that  the  roots  of  the  tubers  may  penetrate  it. 

The  top  portion  should  be  left  in  a  rough,  lumpy 

state,  as  even  a  few  weeks  of  exposure  to  the  air, 

frosts  and  rains  will  prove  highly  beneficial. 

The  Right  Kind  of  Manure  to  Apply. — Well- 
rotted  cow-manure  is  the  best  for  poor  soil  and 
stable  manure  for  that  of  a  hea\'y,  retentive 
nature,  but  on  no  account  should  littery  manure 
be  dug  in  at  the  present  time,  because  it  would 
not  decay.  Such  manure  is  best  applied  in  the 
autumn.      The  unrotted  straw  causes  the  mal- 


RocKERiES,  New  and  Old. — In  open,  dry 
weather  new  rockeries  may  be  made  and  old 
ones  renovated.  There  are  many  corners  in 
town  gardens  in  which  a  new  rockery  would  look 
well  ;  it  would  make  an  ideal  home  for  some 
hardy  alpine  plants  and  Ferns.  Too  often  these 
town  rookeries  are  simply  a  formal  heap  of 
stones,  with  very  little  soil  for  the  plants  to 
grow  in.  There  are  borders  which  rarely  come 
under  the  influence  of  the  sunshine ;  but  that  is  not 
a  sufficient  reason  for  leaving  them  in  an  untidy 
condition  throughout  the  year.  They  are  suit- 
able for  rockery  plants,  and  these,  grown  on  a 
neatly  -  constructed  rockery,  look  charming. 
Procure  a  quantity  of  ordinary  garden  soil  to 
form  a  base  in  cases  where  the  rockwork  is  to  be 
built  to  a  height  of  more  than  3  feet.  The  soil 
of    low    rockeries    should    be    of    good   quality 


formation  of  many  roots.       It   seems   a   trifling  ,  throughout ;    if   of   higher    formations    the    top 

matter,  but  when  one  considers  how  very  tender,  '  • "  '     ■  ■        -    .      . 

for  instance,  a  young  Carrot  is,  one  cannot  wonder 

greatly  at  the  prevalence  of  forked  roots  in  such 

soil.       All    littery   manure    should    be    lightly 

sprinkled  with  water  and  turned  over  once  each 


18  inches  must  be  of  the  best.  Do  not  make  a 
new  rockery  too  conical  in  shape.  Commence  to 
build  on  a  good  broad  base  and  thus  secure 
ample  room  for  the  stones  and  soil  necessary. 
Place    each  stone    in  as  natural  a  manner  as 


week  until  the  bulk  has  rotted  down  ;  then  dig  it  1  possible  and  so  that  it  will  collect  or  arrest  the 
into  the  ground  immediately,  thoroughly  mixing  rain  water,  thus  causing  it  to  permeate  the  soil 
it  with  the  soil ;  do  not  leave  it  in  lumps  or  heaps,    around  the  roots  of  the  plants,  and  not  conduct 

Sowing  the  Seeds. 
Even  after  such 
careful  treatment  of 
the  clayey  soil  it  is 
a  difficult  matter  to 
obtain  specimens 
good  enough  to  ex- 
hibit—  I  do  not 
mean  as  regards 
size,  but  in  shape 
and  of  good  quality 
generally — so  we 
must  take  more 
trouble  and  make 
with  neatly- 
trimmed  stakes 
holes  resembling 
fine  specimens  of 
Carrots,  Parsnips 
and  Beetroot  respec- 
tively.  Having 
made  the  holes, 
fill  them  with 
fairly  good  sifted 
soil  and  drop  a 
few  seeds  on  the 
surface.  In  due 
time  the  seed- 
lings should  be  4. — an  excellent  example  of  the  ' 
thinned     out,     one  A  grape   vlne.     two  rods  are 

only  being  left  for  the  vinery  and  the   lateral 

each  hole.      Avon.  direction. 


'  extension  '  method  of  training 
carried  the  whole  length  of 
growths  trained  in  an  upward 


58 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[January  30,  1909. 


it  to  the  ground  level  and  prevent  it  reaching 
the  roots.  Old  rookeries  require  renovating 
from  time  to  time  ;  they  get  covered  with  leaves 
of  trees,  and  weeds  become  established  in  them 
with  suprising  rapidity,  so  that  owners  should 
very  closely  examine  all  old  rockeries,  cleaning 
the  soil  and  replenishing  it  where  it  has  crumbled 
away. 

Alpine  Plants  in  Pots  and  Borders. — 
Many  owners  of  town  gardens  like  to  keep  a 
collection  of  these  plants  in  pots  and  in  borders 
specially  constructed  for  them.  If  a  few  basal 
leaves  decay  and  are  left  on  the  plants,  the 
latter  may  be  lost  entirely  ;  remove  such  leaves 
and  also  any  worm-oasts  around  those  in  the 
borders.  Furthermore,  the  general  interest  in 
such  collections  of  plants  is  enhanced  when  all 
are  neatly  and  correctly  labelled.  Partially- 
decayed  labels  should  be  discarded  and  new  ones 
substituted  while  there  is  time  to  deal  with  such 
matters.  Later  on  gardeners  will  find  many 
other  things  requiring  attention,  and  if  the 
names  of  some  favourite  plants  are  lost  there 
will  be  much  disappointment.  Every  name 
should  be  quite  distinct  on  the  label  at  the 
present  time,  otherwise  by  the  end  of  the 
summer  it  will  be  impossible  to  read  it. 

Turning  Gravel  Paths. — The  surface  of  the 
gravel  paths  becomes  uneven  in  time  and  very 
unpleasant  to  walk  on  ;  but  it  is  not  always 
necessary  to  buy  new  gravel  to  repair  them 
where  there  is  a  sufficient  depth  of  it  to 
allow  of  turning.  Use  a  strong  garden  fork  for 
this  purpose,  burying  the  largest  stones  at  the 
bottom,  and,  finally,  thoroughly  roll  down  the 
path  again,  repeating  this  work  when  rain  falls 
occasionally.  Avon. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


M' 


FOR   THE    SOUTH   AND  SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Garden. 
USCAT  VINES,  if  not  already  put  in 
order  for  starting  in  the  middle  of 
February,  should  be  attended  to  at 
once.  The  glass  and  woodwork  of 
the  house  must  be  thoroughly 
cleansed  and  the  Vines  dressed 
with  a  mixture  of  Gishurst  Compound.  See  that 
the  borders  are  thoroughly  moist.  If  water  is 
needed,  let  it  be  slightly  warmed,  and  remove  a 
little  of  the  surface  soil  ;  top-dress  with  good 
loam,  bone-meal,  &e. 

Pot  Vines. — Where  these  are  grown  for  an 
early  crop,  the  bunches,  as  soon  as  they  have 
set  and  the  berries  have  attained  the  size  of 
peas,  ought  to  be  thinned,  removing  carefully 
the  tiny  seedless  berries  and  those  not  required. 
If  the  bunches  are  compact  and  thickly  set, 
thin  more  freely  than  if  they  are  loosely 
formed.  Nourish  the  roots  well,  and  do  not 
allow  the  rods  to  carry  more  bunches  than  can 
be  finished  satisfactorily. 

New  Vines. — Intending  planters  of  Vines 
should  lose  no  time  in  preparing  the  borders  so 
that  the  soil  may  settle  somewhat  before 
planting.  Attend  well  to  the  drainage,  and  let 
the  soil  be  the  best  loam  of  medium  texture. 
Add  suitable  materials  with  the  soil,  such  as 
bones,  wood-ashes,  lime  rubble,  &o. ,  so  that  good 
Grapes  may  be  produced. 

Peach  Homes. — All  late  Peach  trees  should 
now  be  put  in  order  for  starting  later  on,  and 
before  the  buds  get  too  forward,  otherwise  many 
may  get  damaged  when  the  work  is  being  done. 
If  desired,  young  trees  of  suitable  varieties 
should  be  obtained  and  grown  on  in  the  open  for 
a  year  or  two,  and  then  lifted  and  taken  under 
glass  in  the  place  of  old  worn-out  or  unsuitable 
varieties.  Quite  large,  healthy  trees  will  usually 
produce  a  fair  crop  the  first  year  after  planting. 


Good  varieties  are  Dymond,  Stirling  Castle, 
Crimson  Galande,  the  Nectarine  Peach,  Barring- 
ton  and  Violette  Hative  ;  Nectarines  Pineapple, 
Humboldt,  Lord  Napier  and  Elruge. 

The  Plant  Houses. 
Chinese   Primulas. — Be    careful    not   to   over- 
water  these.     The  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots, 
and    a    little    weak    manure    water    or    Clay's 
Fertilizer  may  be  given  with  advantage. 

Stove. 
Stove  plants  will  now  require  examination, 
for  many  of  them  are  starting  into  growth,  and 
before  they  get  too  advanced  the  roots  need  to 
be  thoroughly  examined.  If  more  root  room  is 
necessary,  they  should  be  repotted,  first  slightly 
reducing  the  roots.  In  cases  where  the  roots 
have  been  kept  rather  dry  the  balls  should  be 
thoroughly  soaked  in  water.  All  the  wood  and 
glass  work  will  be  the  better  for  a  good  wash,  and 
the  plants  should  be  well  sponged  if  necessary. 
AUamandas,  Stephanotis,  Clerodendrons,  &c., 
invariably  thrive  satisfactorily  in  a  mixture  of 
sandy  loam,  peat,  leaf-mould  and  sand.  All 
newly-potted  plants  require  very  careful  atten- 
tion with  regard  to  watering,  but  as  the  roots 
take  to  the  new  soil  more  water  will  be 
required.  Many  of  the  creepers  and  climbers 
now  need  attention.  Any  pruning  ought  to  be 
done,  and  to  encourage  new  growth  syringing 
overhead  with  tepid  water  should  be  done  on  all 
favourable  occasions.  Special  plants  for  a 
certain  object  may,  if  desired,  be  kept  back  by 
keeping  the  roots  rather  dry  and  the  plants  in  a 
cooler  temperature  for  the  present. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR   THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Seed  Sowing  Under  Glass. 

Cucumbers  and  Melons. — If  not  already  done, 
seeds  of  each  of  these  may  now  be  sown  where  a 
minimum  temperature  of  from  60°  to  65"  can  be 
easily  maintained.  Should  doubt  exist  upon 
this  point,  sowing  had  better  be  deferred  for  a 
time,  or  until  greater  length  of  daylight  and  the 
possible  increase  of  solar  heat  assists  that  pro- 
vided by  artificial  means.  The  Telegraph  type 
of  Cucumber  is  well  adapted  for  early  work, 
being  moderate  in  growth,  the  fruits  shapely  in 
form  and  arriving  quickly  at  maturity.  Varieties 
of  Melons  are  numerous,  and  past  experience  will 
enable  growers  in  general  to  make  a  good  selec- 
tion. Hero  of  Lockinge,  Earl's  Favourite  and 
Blenheim  Orange,  white,  green  and  scarlet  fleshed 
respectively,  seldom  fail  to  give  satisfaction. 
Small  pots  drained  with  leaves  or  moss,  and 
three  parts  filled  with  a  compost  of  turfy  loam 
and  leaf-mould,  the  seeds  being  simply  pressed 
beneath  the  surface,  will  answer  well.  The 
compost  being  at  the  time  fairly  moist,  water  is 
best  withheld  until  growth  is  visible,  and  even 
then  applied  very  sparingly  and  always  at  the 
same  temperature,  or,  by  preference,  rather 
higher  than  that  of  the  house. 

Tomatoes. — If  the  autumn-sown  plants  are 
progressing  well,  they  will  provide  a  supply  of 
fruits  until  midsummer  ;  but,  if  otherwise,  seeds 
of  a  small-fruiting  variety  should  be  sown  in 
brisk  heat  and  the  seedlings  pushed  on  to  make 
up  for  lost  time.  For  general  use  the  Perfection 
type,  which  apparently  includes  a  number  of 
varietal  names  with  very  slight  distinctive 
features,  is  moderate  in  size,  smooth  in  outline 
and  rich  in  colour  and  flavour.  Sown  in  light 
soil,  in  a  pan  or  box,  the  seedlings  are  soon 
visible,  and  from  this  time  until  the  flower 
trusses  appear  care  is  needed  that  they  do  not 
become  drawn,  through  remaining  too  long  in 
strong  heat,  or  by  occupying  a  position  far 
removed  from  the  glass. 

SeedliiKjs  for  Bedding. — Begonias,  Petunias 
and  many  other  very  similar   subjects  used  for 


bedding  out  and  conservatory  decoration  during 
the  current  year  may  now  be  sown.  In  the  case 
of  the  genera  named,  as  well  as  some  others,  the 
seeds  are  of  dust-like  fineness,  hence  the  seed-bed 
must  be  very  carefully  prepared  and  a  position 
selected  for  germination  where  drying  influences 
are  absent.  Use  a  compost  of  finely-sifted  peat, 
leaf-mould  and  sand,  previously  heated  by  some 
convenient  means  if  thought  to  contain  small 
worms  or  grubs,  firmly  pressed  to  a  depth  of 
3  inches  into  wall-drained  receptacles,  these  in 
turn  being  nearly  submerged  in  water  to  ensure 
the  soil  being  properly  moistened,  but  not  wet, 
when  sowing  takes  place.  Upon  a  level  surface 
sprinkle  the  seed  and  gently  press  it  in  with 
some  smooth  implement  to  which  it  is  not  likely 
to  adhere.  Any  covering  with  soil  is  best  dis- 
pensed with.  Plunged  in  a  bed  of  Cocoanut  fibre 
the  receptacles  may  be  covered  with  a  sheet  of 
glass  and  kept  dark  until  germination  of  the 
seed  takes  place.  Until  this  time  applied 
moisture  may  be  unnecessary,  but  dryness  must 
be  carefully  guarded  against,  a  gentle  spray  by 
aid  of  the  syringe  given  in  time  being  much 
better  than  a  heavier  application  when  the  soil 
has  become  parched.  A  good  rule  to  follow  in 
sowing  is  to  cover  the  seed  according  to  its  size 
individually,  and  while  some  kinds  are  best 
spread  on  the  surface,  others  require  covering 
with  soil  in  accordance  thereto,  until  in  respect 
to  the  largest,  as  Cannas  and  Ricinus,  a  depth  of 
1  inch  is  none  too  much. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Oooseherries.  —The  pruning  of  these  is  often 
deferred  to  circumvent  to  some  extent  the 
damage  likely  to  accrue  owing  to  the  buds  being 
attacked  by  birds.  Whether  this  course  is  best 
is  questionable,  but  if  the  bushes  were  not 
pruned  and  dressed  in  autumn  the  work  should 
now  be  done.  The  former  system  of  shortening 
all  the  leading  branches  and  all  side  growths  to 
a  few  buds  is  now  regarded  as  obsolete  ;  the 
more  profitable  method  of  thinning  the  previous 
season's  growths  to  the  requisite  number  to  form 
a  handsome  and  fruitful  tree,  merely  reducing 
any  in  length  that  unduly  extend,  gives  more 
and  finer  fruits,  which,  owing  to  the  openness 
and  consequent  ease  of  gathering,  is  to  be 
recommended.  Birds  are  generally  most  trouble- 
some when  the  buds  commence  to  swell,  hence 
some  preparation  distasteful  to  them  shoiild  be 
held  in  readiness  for  application.  A  mixture  of 
fresh  slaked  lime,  to  which  soft  soap  is  added  to 
make  it  more  adhesive,  and  sufficient  water  to 
render  its  passage  through  the  sprayer  or  syringe 
possible,  applied  to  the  bushes  on  a  drying  day, 
is  lasting  in  its  effects,  but  a  repetition  may 
possibly  be  needed. 

Red  and  White  Currants  require  very  similar 
treatment  ;  all  side  shoots  not  required  for 
furnishing  the  trees  should  be  reduced  to  spurs, 
while  a  few  of  those  springing  direct  from  the 
base  may  be  reserved  to  replace  any  worn-out 
branches,  either  now  or  next  season. 

Black  Currants,  according  to  the  age  and  size 
of  the  plants,  should  have  a  good  proportion  of 
the  older  growths  cut  away  to  make  room  for 
those  younger.  Spur  pruning  is  not  practised, 
the  thinning  out  process  being  sufficient. 

Vegetable   Garden. 

Onions  and  Leeks. — If  these  are  wanted  for 
exhibition,  or  other  particular  purposes  in  early 
autumn,  seeds  should  now  be  sown  in  warmth. 
Boxes  nearly  filled  with  good  friable  soil,  or,  for 
a  moderate  quantity  of  plants,  pots  answer 
equally  well.  Upon  a  firm  surface  sow  the  seeds 
thinly,  and  cover  with  soil  to  the  depth  of  half 
an  inch  ;  place  upon  a  gentle  hot-bed  if  possible, 
and  keep  dark  until  germination  takes  place  ; 
afterwards,  gradually  inure  to  light  and  keep 
the  plants  near  the  glass  in  a  greenhouse. 
Avoid  a  forcing  temperature  at  all  times. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Galloway  Hottse,  Oarlieslon,  Wigtownshire. 


January  30,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


59 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Answers.— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Gakden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
'*  Answers  to  Correspondentu "  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  vrritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
OuiDEN,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  PDBLISHEB. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  m^ore  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  o7i  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Sweet    Peas    eaten    off    at    the 

roots  {G.  S.  i?. ).- Gas-lime  is,  no  doubt,  a 
very  effective  insecticide,  but,  unfortunately, 
the  soil  which  has  been  dressed  with  it  cannot 
support  plant  life  again  for  some  months  if  the 
dressing  is  heavy  enough  to  kill  insects  and 
other  pests.  Vaporite,  Apterite  and  Kilogrub 
are  three  compounds  which  are  said  to  kill  all 
ground  pests  which  come  within  their  influence. 
They  should  be  worked  into  the  soil  and  do  not 
injure  plants.  They  emit  fumes  when  in  contact 
with  the  soil  which  are  poisonous  to  animal  life. 
It  is  too  late  to  use  gas-lime  now,  but  if  you  can 
afford  to  let  the  soil  lie  idle  for  six  months  use 
from  half  a  pound  to  lib.  per  square  yard. — 
G.  S.  S. 

Flowers  fop  front  ga,vden  {G.  c.).— 

The  rough  sketch  of  your  front  garden  is  very 
well,  but  you  give  us  no  figures  as  to  its  size. 
You  sketch  beds,  but  show  no  breadths  or 
lengths,  hence  it  is  impossible  to  say  what 
description  of  plants  would  suit  your  ease.  Why 
run  your  grass  plot  into  such  sharp,  acute  angles 
or  corners,  where  mowing  the  grass  is  impossible? 
You  had  far  better  make  your  centre  bed  square 
to  correspond  with  the  square  of  the  whole,  or 
else  make  your  grass  correspond  with  your 
round  centre  bed  by  making  the  border  round 
it  bolder,  cutting  off  the  grass  corners  and  thus 
giving  more  room  for  flowers.  You  do  not 
allow  any  footpath  entrance  to  the  grass  plot 
from  either  the  house-front  or  side  path.  That 
must  be  provided  for.  Will  you  please  first 
amend  your  plan  ;  then  give  us  the  exact  dimen- 
sions of  your  bed  and  breadths  of  the  surrounding 
border,  also  the  dimensions  of  the  whole  front 
garden  ?  When  we  have  that  we  can  better 
advise  you.  Do  you  want  hardy  plants  to 
remain  winter  and  summer  ? 

Stockingr     herbaceous     borders 

(Lilias). — The  best  way  to  stock  a  herbaceous 
border  would  be  to  plant  it  forthwith  with  suit- 
able subjects.  In  a  case  of  this  kind  it  would  be 
far  the  1  >est  plan  to  get  the  advice  of  a  specialist, 
and  what  may  be  done  depends  not  a  little  upon 
your  own  desires  and  particularly  on  the  pro- 
bable cost.  In  borders  of  the  size  and  width 
you  name  there  is  ample  room  for  effect,  and 
many  fine  masses  of  things  producing  a  long 
succession  of  flowers  might  be  introduced. 
For  example,  Lilies  of  many  sorts,  Kniphofias, 
Pseonies,  Campanulas,  Globe  Flowers,  Irises, 
Gaillardias,  Pyrethrums,  Michaelmas  Daisies 
(early  and  late).  Phloxes  in  variety,  with 
dwarfer  plants  nearer  the  margin,  would  alone 
provide  flowers  for  many  weeks.  In  addition, 
Daffodils,  Carnations,  masses  of  Tufted  Pansies, 
Pinks  and  the  like  would  greatly  enhance  the 
display.  Such  a  stretch  of  border  is  worthy  of 
careful  planting,  and  may  be  done  at  any  time 
between  now  and  March  so  far  as  the  non- 
bulbous  things  are  concerned.  For  these  latter 
the  work  should  be  taken  in  hand  at  once,  or 
to  soon  as  a  definite  idea  can  be  fixed  as  to  the 


arrangement.  One  of  the  mossy  Saxifrages 
would  make  a  good  edging. 

Top  -  dressing-    bulbs    with    old 

manure  (Coloneaster). — You  have  not  only 
done  an  advisable  thing,  but  what  was 
very  necessary,  in  top  -  dressing  the  bulbs 
with  well-decayed  cow-manure.  When  bulbs 
are  planted  in  clumps  in  herbaceous  borders, 
where  they  have  to  fight  with  roots  of  other 
plants,  or  even  in  beds  by  themselves,  they  need 
fresh  food  if  they  are  to  be  long  in  the  same 
position,  otherwise  they  become  weakened. 
There  is  no  better  way  of  giving  this  help  than 
by  an  annual  top-dressing  of  old  manure.  Cow- 
manure  is  apt  to  be  lumpy,  so  eare  must  be  taken 
to  have  no  large  lumps  when  it  is  put  on,  or  if 
there  are  any  now  in  what  is  already  on,  they 
must  be  removed  directly  the  leaves  show 
through  the  soil,  or  they  will  bj  bent  and  the 
whole  plant  more  or  less  disfigured. 

Cpocus  and  birds  i.H.  W.  B.). — There  is  nothing 
more  effective  than  black  thread,  and  a  few  strands 
passed  over  the  beds  usually  sutfice.  All  that  is  reciuisite 
are  a  few  sticks  or  inconsjicuous  twigs  stuck  in  here  and 
there,  the  thread  first  tied  on  to  one  and  then  passed 
round  each  twig,  and  occasionally  crossed  and  recrossed 
over  the  beds.  The  thread  should  be  placed  so  as  to  be 
above  the  level  of  the  flower-buds  when  these  are  fully 
grown,  so  that  the  wings  of  the  birds  come  in  contact 
with  the  thread.  A  few  shgcks  of  this  kind  will,  as  a  rule, 
prove  effective. 

Plants  fop  west  border  (J.  M.  IlVinifr.i/).— You 
will  find  that  a  choice  selection  of  Flag  Irises,  Lilies, 
Asters,  Gaillardias,  Preonies,  Spanish  and  English  Irises, 
Campanulas,  Tree  and  perennial  Lupines,  Phloxes,  Trollius 
and  similar  plants  will  do  quite  well.  Unfortunately,  you 
say  nothing  as  to  the  size  of  the  border,  and  any  selection  we 
might  give  you  in  more  definite  form  might  prove  of  little 
use.  We  are  presuming,  too,  that  you  require  herbaceous 
perennial  plants  and  not  annuals  or  biennials.  If  yon 
will  write  again,  giving  all  the  particulars,  we  will  give 
you  a  suitable  list  of  plauts.  The  Polygonum  is  a 
perfectly  good  hardy  climbing  plant  and  most  fascinat- 
ing when  in  bloom.  It  is  seen  to  the  best  advantage  when 
allowed  to  ramble  carelessly  in  a  dying  Araucaria  or 
Cypress,  but  may  be  trained  to  a  fairly  high  trellis  or 
allowed  to  roam  at  will  over  a  pergola.  The  fruit  trees, 
if  still  in  health,  might  be  headed  back  for  regrafting  in 
March  or  April  next,  but  just  what  is  best  could  only  be 
decided  on  the  spot  with  a  knowledge  of  the  trees  and 
other  things.  In  all  probability  it  would  be  best  to  grub 
them  out  and  plant  young  specimens  iu  their  stead.  If 
for  any  reason  you  cannot  remove  the  trees,  your  next  best 
course  will  be  to  head  them  back  for  grafting. 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 
Shrubs  for  beds  (G.  w.).—ln  the 
narrow  beds  close  to  the  house  and  immediately 
in  front  of  the  windows  no  mention  is  made  of 
the  height  the  plants  may  attain  without  inter- 
fering with  the  view  from  the  windows ;  but  if  a 
height  of  from  4  feet  to  5  feet  is  not  too  much,  a 
very  pretty  and  long-standing  effect  may  be 
obtained  by  planting  one  bed  with  Cotoneaster 
rotundifolia  and  the  other  with  Cytisus 
nigricans.  If  desired,  both  beds  may  be  planted 
with  the  same  subjects  arranged  alternately. 
Plants  equally  desirable,  but  reaching  only  the 
height  of  2  feet  or  so,  are  Cotoneaster 
horizontalis,  Hypericum  moserianum  and  Poten- 
tilla  fruticosa.  In  the  first  named  of  these  two 
arrangements,  Cotoneaster  rotundifolia  has  pretty 
whitish  flowers  in  spring  and  bright  scarlet 
berries  in  autumn,  while  Cytisus  nigricans  bears 
its  golden  blossoms  throughout  July  and  August. 
In  the  second  arrangement,  Cotoneaster  hori- 
zontalis has  in  spring  pretty  pink  flowers,  then 
in  summer  the  regular  Fern-like  growth  is  very 
pleasing,  while  in  autumn  the  two  most  striking 
features  are  the  brightly-coloured  berries  and 
the  brilliant  tints  of  the  decaying  leaves.  Even 
in  winter  the  fish-bone-like  arrangement  of  the 
naked  shoots  are  peculiarly  attractive.  The 
Hypericum,  one  of  the  best  of  its  race,  has 
golden  flowers  in  autumn,  and  much  the  same 
may  be  said  of  Potentilla  fruticosa.  The  bed 
5  feet  square  is  a  very  suitable  place  for  a 
specimen  Laurustinus,  and  in  the  triangular  beds 
close  by  may  be  grown  a  collection  of  the  forms 
of  Philadelphus  Lemoinei.  They  may  either  be 
grouped  by  themselves,  or,  if  preferred,  can  be 
alternated  with  Tamarix  Pallassii  rosea,  whose 
pretty    pink    plumes    form    such    a    delightful 


summer  feature.  If  not  used  elsewhere,  a 
collection  of  the  dwarfer  Cotoneasters,  such  as 
C.  congesta,  C.  horizontalis,  C.  microphylla, 
C.  rupestris  and  C.  thymifolia  would  form  a 
pleasing  item  in  the  2^  feet  wide  border,  or  it 
might  be  planted  entirely  with  the  different 
members  of  the  Broom  family.  It  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  both  the  greater  and  lesser 
Periwinkles  and  their  varieties  are  among  the 
finest  subjects  for  planting  in  spots  such  as  that 
named  by  you. 

Treatment   of   Choisya    ternata 

(Lancaster). — Your  plant  of  Choisya  ternata 
ought  to  bloom  without  pruning.  You  do  not 
say  whether  it  is  growing  in  very  rich  soil 
or  in  shade.  The  best  results  are  obtained 
when  the  plant  is  growing  in  moderately  poor 
soil  and  in  a  sunny  position.  In  rich  soil 
and  shade  rank  growth  is  formed,  which  does 
not  flower  well.  Try  the  plant  another  year. 
You  may  get  flowers  this  spring  or  early  summer. 
It  is  a  shrub  that  requires  very  little  pruning, 
except  when  the  branches  become  straggling. 
In  such  a  case  a  hard  cutting  back  should  be 
given.  Basic  slag  may  be  used  on  a  lawn  at  the 
rate  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  the  square  yard. 
It  is  a  slow-acting  manure,  and  you  will  find 
better  results  the  second  year  than  the  first. 
Use  the  manure  on  a  calm  day. 

Tpeatment    of   an   old   'Wintep  Jasmine 

{A.  \V.  Lnfthousi').— Yon  can  cut  your  yellow  Jasmine 
hard  back  to  the  main  branches  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are 
over.  The  branches  may  then  be  spread  out  over  your 
wall  or  fence,  and  young  shoots  will  break  away  evenly 
from  them.  Usually  in  such  cases  a  lot  of  young  wood 
starts  from  the  base. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 
Treatment  of  AUamandas  (If.  H. 

G.). — AUamandas  will,  without  injury,  lose 
many  of  their  leaves  in  winter,  especially  if  they 
hive  been  kept  somewhat  cooler  and  drier  at  the 
roots  than  usual,  as  is  often  done  in  order  to 
rest  them.  Being  vigorous  growers  they  need  a 
fairly  good  soil,  such  as  three  parts  turfy  loam 
to  one  part  each  of  peat  or  leaf-mould,  well- 
decayed  cow-manure  and  sand.  They  should  be 
pruned  now  or  in  February.  In  doing  this  the 
stout  shoots  must  be  cut  back  to  within  two 
or  three  plump  eyes  and  any  weak  and  exhausted 
wood  cut  out. 

Propag-ating:    Stephanotis 

[W.  H.  C.). — Stephanotis  floribunda  is  readily 
propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  growing 
shoots  taken  during  the  spring  months.  The 
best  cuttings  are  formed  of  short  -  jointed 
side  shoots  of  medium  vigour  rather  than  the 
very  strong  ones.  A  length  of  3  inches  to  4  inches 
is  very  suitable  for  the  cuttings,  each  being 
separated  with  a  sharp  knife  immediately  below 
a  joint,  and,  the  bottom  pair  of  leaves  being 
removed,  it  is  then  ready  for  insertion.  The 
cuttings  may  be  either  inserted  singly  into  small 
pots  or  four  cuttings  around  the  side  of  a  pot 
4  inches  in  diameter.  The  pots  must  be  quite 
clean,  effectually  drained,  and  filled  with  a 
mixture  of  equal  parts  of  loam,  peat  and  silver 
sand  thoroughly  incorporated  together  and 
pressed  down  moderately  firm.  A  good  water- 
ing having  been  given,  the  pots  containing  the 
cuttings  must  be  placed  in  a  close  propagating 
case  in  the  stove,  and  if  they  can  be  plunged  in 
a  bottom-heat  of  75°  to  80°  so  much  the  better. 
This  bottom-heat,  although  it  assists  the  action 
of  rooting,  is  not  absolutely  necessary,  as  in  an 
ordinary  stove  temperature,  provided  they  are 
placed  in  a  close  case,  these  cuttings  will  root 
without  difficulty,  although  more  slowly  than 
when  bottom-heat  can  be  applied.  When  well 
rooted,  the  cuttings  must  be  potted  singly  into 
small  pots.  Though  the  soil  as  above  recom- 
mended is  most  suitable  for  cuttings,  a  different 
compost  is  best  for  established  plants.  A  good 
mixture  may  be  formed  of  two  parts  turfy  loam 
to  one  part  of  peat  or  leaf -mould,  and  about  half 
a  part  of  sand.    This  compost  must  not  be  sifted. 


60 


THE     GARDEN. 


[January  30, 1909 


but  pulled  to  pieces  with  the  hands  in  order  to 
leave  as  much  fibre  in  it  as  possible. 

TFeatment  of   Ixora  floribunda 

( jr.  H.  G. ). — Ixora  floribunda  and,  indeed, 
nearly  all  the  different  species  and  varieties 
flower  during  the  latter  part  ot  the  summer  and 
in  the  early  autumn  months.  They  are  propa- 
gated in  the  spring  from  cuttings  formed  of  the 
half-ripened  shoots,  selecting  for  choice  those  of 
medium  vigour  rather  than  the  very  weak  or 
very  strong  ones.  A  mixture  of  equal  parts  of 
peat  and  silver  sand  is  very  suitable  for  the 
cuttings,  which  should  be  inserted  firmly  into 
well-drained  pots,  putting  three  or  four  cuttings 
around  the  edge  of  a  pot  4  inches  in  diameter. 
A  close  propagating  case  in  the  stove  where 
there  is  a  gentle  bottom-heat  is  the  best  place 
for  the  cuttings,  which  under  such  conditions 
soon  root.  For  established  plants,  good  yellow 
loam,  one  part,  to  two  parts  of  peat  and  one  ot 
silver  sand  will  suit  Ixoras  well.  Ixoras  may 
be  potted  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are  over,  or  in 
the  months  of  February  and  March.  They  need 
the  treatment  given  to  the  general  run  of  stove 
plants,  being  greatly  benefited  by  a  liberal  use 
of  the  syringe  in  the  summer.  Being  strictly 
evergreen,  Ixoras  must  not  be  kept  dry  at  the 
roots  at  any  time. 

Cattleyas  spotted  (C.  »r.).— The  spots  on  the 
Cattleyas  are  io  all  probability  caused  by  an  excess  of 
atmospheric  moisture,  combined  with  a  lowness  of 
temperature,  which  last  may  be  only  temporary.  Very 
likely  the  punctures  caused  by  thrips  may  have,  in  the 
first  instance,  formed  the  seat  of  decay,  and  afterwards 
the  decayed  portions  were  attacked  by  a  fungoid  growth. 

Cultivating'  the  Capdamon  {G.  E.  5.).— The 
culture  of  the  Cardamon  (Amomum  Cardamomum)  is,  as 
in  the  case  of  many  of  its  allies,  by  no  means  difficult.  It 
belongs  to  the  extensive  Ginger  Wort  family,  and  has 
therefore  as  its  immediate  allies  the  Ginger  itself,  the 
Hedychiums,  the  Alpinias  and  others.  It  is  a  native  of 
the  Tropics,  and  consequently  needs  a  warm  house,  at 
least  during  its  earlier  stages.  The  seeds  should  be  sown 
in  well-drained  pots  or  pans  in  a  mixture  of  loam,  leaf- 
mould  and  sand,  and  if  placed  in  a  stove  temperature 
they  will  soon  germinate.  Potted  off  in  the  same 
compost  th";  young  plants  will  make  quick  progress,  and 
can  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  when  necessary.  Though 
they  grow  more  freely  iu  the  temperature  of  a  stove  or 
intermediate  house,  they  may,  when  established,  be  kept 
in  good  health  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse  with  a  minimum 
winter  temperature  of  45*=". 

Infopmatlon  about  a  Clepodendpon 
iW.  H.  C.).— In  all  proljability  the  Clerodendron  referred 
to  by  you  is  C.  Balfouri,  although  you  do  not  even  give 
us  the  colour  of  its  flowers  as  a  guide  to  go  by.  Some 
cultivators  prefer  to  give  it  a  rest  during  the  winter,  but 
it  is  too  late  now  to  commence  that  treatment.  It  is 
quite  natural  for  many  of  the  leaves  to  turn  brown  at  this 
season.  Pruning  may  be  done  in  the  first  half  of  February. 
The  vigorous  shoots  may  be  shortened  back  to  good  eyes, 
and  any  weak  and  exliausted  ones  cut  out.  Use  soil  as 
recommended  for  Stephanotis.  Dieffenbachias  can  be 
propagated  after  the  manner  of  Dracjcuas— that  is  to  say, 
the  top  may  be  taken  off  and  struck  as  a  cutting.  It  will 
root  without  ditticulty  if  put  into  a  pot  of  sandy  soil  and 
placed  in  a  close  propagating  case.  Next,  the  bare  stem 
(if  there  is  one)  may  be  laid  in  Cocoanut  refuse  in  a  gentle 
heat,  and  young  plants  will  soon  be  pushed  up  therefrom. 
Some  prefer  to  cut  the  stem  up  into  eyes  or  joints,  while 
others  leave  it  entire.  In  the  case  of  dwarf  plants— that 
is  to  say,  those  in  which  but  a  short  stem  is  left  after  the 
top  has  been  removed— the  better  way  is  to  leave  this 
short  stem  undisturbed,  for  a  young  shoot  will  soon  be 
pushed  out  from  the  upper  portion,  and  as  soon  as  that  is 
large  enough  it  may  be  taken  off  and  treated  as  a  separate 
cutting.  The  mouth  of  February  is  the  best  time  to 
propagate  Dieffenbachias. 

FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Apple  and  othep  fruit   tpees  in 

pots  iff')- — Excellent  success  may  be  obtained 
by  growing  Apple  trees  in  pots.  They  may  be 
plunged  in  the  soil  or  placed  on  a  bed  of  ashes 
or  gravel  on  the  surface.  The  work  of  watering 
during  summer,  of  course,  is  considerable  and 
exacting,  as,  if  they  are  allowed  to  suffer  from 
dryness  at  the  roots,  failure  will  follow.  They 
will  not  succeed  satisfactorily  if  ordinary  garden 
soil  is  used,  because  the  quantity  of  soil  available 
to  sustain  growth  and  fertility  being  so  small,  it 
must  be  of  the  most  nourishing  description, 
which  ordinary  garden  soil  is  not.  The  following 
mixture  should  be  made  up  in  which  to  pot 
them  :  To  one  barrow-load  of  maiden  loam  from 
a  pasture  field  (without  any  grass),  cut  in  turves 


of  4  inches  or  5  inches  deep,  add  two  pecks  of  dry 
rotten  manure,  a  quart  of  soot  and  three  quarts  of 
bone-meal,  mixing  all  well  together  before 
potting.  The  turf  should  be  broken  with  the 
hands  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg.  If  you 
do  not  care  for  the  trouble  of  finding  and  mixing 
the  soil,  the  trees  may  be  bought  of  any  good 
nurseryman  ready  potted. 

Burning:     sulphur    to    kill    red 
spider    in    a   Peacli  house   {One   in 

Doubt). — We  know  of  no  fruit  tree  so  suscep- 
tible to  injury  to  its  flower-buds  as  the  Peach, 
and  therefore  we  do  not  recommend  its  being 
subjected  to  the  hot  fumes  of  sulphur.  A  better 
way  will  be  to  thoroughly  wash  the  glass,  trellis 
and  walls  with  a  strong  solution  of  soft  soap, 
afterwards  whitewashing  the  walls,  also  forking 
up  the  surface  soil  of  the  border  to  the  depth  of 
2  inches,  wheeling  it  away  and  burying  it  deeply 
in  the  garden,  replacing  it  with  3  inches  or 
4  inches  of  maiden  loam  and  adding  a  gallon  ot 
bone-meal  to  every  barrow-load  of  loam.  After- 
wards paint  the  trees  with  the  following 
mixture :  Half  a  pint  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  the 
same  of  quicklime.  Dissolve  in  one  gallon  of 
water,  adding  soft  clay  to  bring  the  mixture  to 
a  consistency  of  paint. 

Barren  Fig  tree  {E.  D.   ^.).— Before 

a  fruit  tree  of  any  kind  can  bear  satisfactory 
crops  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  branches 
should  be  freely  exposed  to  sunshine,  light 
and  air.  Seeing  that  your  tree  has  not  been 
pruned  for  years,  it  must  be  a  tangle  of  dense 
growth  in  summer  and  quite  impervious  to  the 
influences  above  described  ;  therefore  the  first 
thing  to  do  will  be  to  prune  your  tree  rather 
severely.  At  least  one-half  of  the  branches 
formed  last  summer  (they  are  easily  distinguish- 
able) will  have  to  be  cut  away,  cutting  the 
weakest  shoots  first.  Then  dig  a  trench  2  feet 
deep  and  2  feet  wide  at  a  distance  of  Si  feet  from 
the  stem  of  the  tree,  cutting  away  with  a  knife 
all  roots  seen  in  the  operation  of  digging  out  the 
trench.  The  soil  taken  from  the  trench  must  be 
removed  and  replaced  by  turfy  loam  cut  from 
pasture-land  or  from  the  roadside.  To  this  must 
be  added  two  quarts  of  bone-dust  to  every  barrow- 
load  of  soil.  New  roots  will  soon  be  formed, 
and  these  will,  in  a  year  or  two,  enable  the  tree 
to  bear  and  finish  a  good  crop  of  Figs.  The 
new  soil  should  be  rammed  hard  into  the  trench. 
Some  spurious  varieties  of  Figs  will  not  bear 
fruit  even  under  the  most  favourable  conditions. 
We  hope  yours  does  not  come  under  this 
category. 

Bupnlns  useless  i^pass  in  opchapd  (3f.  M.).— 
This  would  be  a  good  plan  to  get  rid  of  the  useless  grass, 
and  possibly  the  larvae  of  many  insect  pests  ;  but  the  fire 
must  be  under  perfect  control,  with  the  means  of  putting 
it  out  at  hand,  and  never  be  left  by  the  man  in  charge,  or 
it  might,  of  coui'se,  inflict  fatal  damage  to  the  fruit  trees. 

Apple  Ribston  Pippin  -with  a  dead  limb 
iA.  K.).—1)\&  means  suggested  by  you  to  till  the  hole  in 
one  of  the  limbs  of  your  Ribston  Pippin  will  prevent  its 
further  decay  by  protecting  the  wound  from  the  weather 
and  insect  pests.  We  should  wash  the  wound  out  well 
with  a  strong  solution  of  soft  soap,  which  will  clear  it  of 
any  filth  which  may  remain,  drying  the  wound  with  rags 
before  applying  the  cement. 

Planting:  fPUit  tPees  {,lgnora)nus).—li  you  can 
make  your  fruit  quarter  fully  t\)  feet  from  the  Fir 
trees,  do  so,  as  these  tree-roots  run  wide  and  would  soon 
find  their  way  into  your  well-prepared  ground.  Even  at 
that  distance  it  may  be  wise  every  two  years  to  open  a 
trench  2  feet  wide  and  as  deep  just  beside  your  fruit 
quarter  and  cut  off  all  roots,  as  by  so  doing  the  Fir  tree- 
roots  could  not  get  any  hold  of  the  fruit  ground.  There  is 
no  need  to  fix  the  wire  netting  all  round  the  sides  of  your 
fruit  enclosure  until  the  trees  and  Imshes  are  planted  ;  but 
when  that  is  done  it  will  be  well  to  have  the  sides  enclosed 
with  wire  and  the  top  with  nets  to  prevent  Itirda  from 
preying  on  the  fruit-buds.  When  these  break  into  leaf 
and  bloom  in  the  spring  the  nets  may  be  taken  off  until 
the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  then  they  will  be  needed  until 
the  fruit  is  all  gathered.  Birds,  however,  seldom  trouble 
fruit-buds  until  hard  weather  drives  them  to  find  food  in 
that  way.  Plant  your  trees  and  bushes  the  moment  the 
ground  is  ready  if  the  weather  is  favourable.  When  the 
planting  is  complete— and  in  all  cases  plant  rather  shallow 
than  deep— place  some  long  stable  manure  under  the  trees 
and  bushes ;  this  will  protect  the  roots  from  severe 
frosts.  Raspberry  canes  must  be  sacrificed  the  flrst  year 
by  cutting  them  nearly  close  to  the  giound  in  February. 
This  will  encourage  new  auckera  to  form  and  establish 


the  plants  for  future  years.  Tree  leaves  alone  make 
excellent  leaf-soil,  but  you  will  facilitate  their  decay  if 
you  turn  them  two  or  three  times  during  the  winter, 
moistening  them  with  house  slops  and  adding  a  dusting 
of  soot.  They  need  a  full  year  to  thoroughly  decay. 
Certainly  d<i  what  you  suggest  with  your  lawn,  but  pull 
out  all  the  Loarse  grass  you  can  first,  then  manure  and 
top-dress  with  the  soil. 

Peaps  in  pots  fop  a  cold  lean-to  house 

(A'.  Y.  Z.). — Such  a  house  should  hold  a  dozen  trees  in  pots 
without  unduly  crowding  the  Peach  tree  on  the  back  wall. 
The  varieties  we  recommend  are  one  each  of  Williams's 
Bou  Chri-tien,  Triomphe  de  Vienne,  Fondante  d'Automne, 
Marie  Louise.  Emile  d'Heyst,  Beurr6  de  Jonghe,  Charles 
Ernest,  Easter  Beurre,  Winter  Nelis  and  President  Barabe, 
and  two  of  Doyenne  du  Cornice. 

Daisies  alon^  edgre  of  Peap  tpee  bopdep 
(C  M.  C).— We  advise  that  a  small  ridge  of  soil,  3  inches 
high  and  -1  inches  wide,  be  added  to  the  border  on  the 
line  where  it  is  intended  to  plant  the  Daisies,  forking  and 
mixing  it  with  the  border  soil  to  the  depth  of  about 
4  inches.  This  added  soil  will  sustain  the  growth  of  the 
Daisies  (especially  if  it  has  a  little  well-rotted  manure  in 
it)  without  doing  any  harm  to  the  Pear  trees. 

Paving:  fop  fpuit  tpees  (F.  C.  5.).— Where  the 
subsoil  is  of  stitT  clay,  and  probably  somewhat  wet  or  sour, 
it  is  imperative  that  some  sort  of  hard  or  almost  impei- 
vious  base  or  floor  to  each  hole  where  a  tree  is  to  be 
planted  should  be  provided.  But  we  prefer  such  floor 
to  consist  of  porous  matter  rather  than  of  solid  impervious 
material,  such  as  elates,  stone  slabs  or  solid  concrete. 
We  think  a  floor  of  broken  brick  rubble,  some  3  inches  or 
4  inches  thick  and  trodden  or  rammed  fairly  firm,  is  best. 
Such  a  floor,  while  presenting  a  formidable  obstacle  to 
the  passage  of  vertical  roots,  offers  no  encour<*gement 
to  them,  yet  at  the  same  time  allows  moisture  from  the 
lower  strata  to  be  drawn  up  to  the  tree-roots  by  capillary 
attraction  in  hot,  parching  weather.  On  solid  or  imper- 
vious floors  the  soil  and  roots  are  apt  to  become  very  dry. 
All  trees  planted  three  years  should,  if  possible,  lie  lifted, 
have  all  vertical  or  coarse  roots  pruned  hard  back,  then  be 
replanted  shallow.    Root  trouble  seldom  follows  then. 

Ppepaping  grpound  fOP  fPUit  tpees  {Learner). 
We  do  not  approve  of  the  work  of  your  man  in  trenching 
your  old  pasture,  burying  down  the  top  spit  of  soil  and 
bringing  the  bottom  to  the  surface.  For  fruit  trees  and 
bushes  of  all  things  it  is  important  the  best  soil  should 
be  on  top  to  encourage  root-action  near  the  surface.  The 
course  should  have  been,  flrst,  to  pare  off  the  grass  and 
surface  from  a  space  at  one  end  of  the  plot,  2  feet  wide 
and  3  inches  deep,  and  to  place  it  on  one  aide ;  then  to 
throw  out  12  inches  in  depth  of  the  next  soil  and  put  that 
also  on  one  side  ;  then  to  have  had  the  bottom  well  forked 
up  10  inches  deep  and  to  have  left  it  there.  From  off  the 
next  trench  of  -2  feet  wide  pare  off  the  turf  and  surface 
soil  3  inches  deep  and  throw  that  into  the  bottom  of  the 
trench  with  the  grass  downwards  ;  then  on  that  the  next 
12  inches  of  soil,  the  bottom  being  forked  up  as  before. 
By  doing  this  all  over  the  plot  you  would  have  kept  the 
best  soil  near  the  surface.  The  sample  of  soil  sent  shows 
the  need  of  much  exposure  to  the  air  to  sweeten  it.  and, 
of  course,  the  winter  will  do  something  beneficial  to  it  in 
that  way.  As  it  is.  you  must  make  the  best  of  it.  Get 
your  trees  and  bushes  planted  at  once  if  poaaible,  especi- 
ally if  the  weather  keeps  open.  Put  no  manure  close  to 
the  roots,  but  a  mulch  of  manure  over  the  soil  to  wash 
into  the  roots  will  do  good.  If  you  have  wood  ashes  or 
old  mortar  refuse  and  any  fine  soil,  use  a  little  of  each 
close  to  the  roots  when  planting.  As  you  plant  sprinkle  a 
little  of  the  basic  slag  in  with  the  soil  about  each  tree  or 
bush,  half  a  pound  to  each  tree,  less  to  a  bush.  Use  the 
farmyard  manure  for  mulching  as  advised  It  is  beat  to 
allow  turf  as  loam,  manure  and  leaves  all  to  be  stacked 
separately  in  heaps.  Turf  needs  no  turning,  but  leaves 
and  manure  will  decay  all  the  sooner  if  occasionally 
turned  and  at  the  same  time  well  damped  with  water  or 
house  sewage.  Leaves  need  a  year  to  become  soil ;  turf, 
six  months. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Ppuningr  a  Quick  hedge  {A.  B.)— You  had 
better  trim  the  long  ends  of  your  hedge  of  Quick  now ; 
then  let  the  plants  make  a  season's  growth  and  cut  them 
hard  back  in  the  spring  of  I'JIO.  By  this  meana  you  will 
obtain  a  much  stronger  hedge  than  would  be  possible  were 
you  simply  to  trim  the  hedge  lightly  over.  By  letting  them 
grow  this  year  practically  unchecked,  the  plants  will  get 
well  established  and  vigorous.  This  hard  cutting  down 
will  result  in  a  dense,  thick  bottom,  which  is  so  important 
a  factor  in  a  hedge.  A  top-dressing  of  manure  will  assist 
growth  after  the  cutting  down  next  spring. 

Size  of  an  allotment  (/*.  C.  .S".). -Assuming  that 
by  the  term  allotment  you  mean  a  plot  of  ground  such  as 
is  commonly  termed,  the  dimensions  usually  range 
from  ten  rods  to  twenty  rods,  some  being  of  fifteen  rods 
area.  The  dimensions  of  the  plots  are  varied  to  suit  the 
capacities  and  time  of  each  holder,  but,  as  a  rule,  on  any 
large  group  the  rent  ia  per  rod  rather  than  per  plot,  hence 
small  or  large  plots  pay  relatively  the  aame  rent.  Thia 
varies  from  as  low  aa  4d.  up  to  Is.  per  rod,  all  depending 
on  quality  of  soil,  on  the  position  of  the  plot,  whether  near 
at  hand  or  remote,  and  on  the  owner.  Public  bodies 
charge  varying  rates  according  to  the  primary  rent  they 
may  have  to  pay  and  certain  costs  of  management,  which 
the  rent  has  to  cover.  If  you  have  not  previously  worke<l 
an  allotment,  you  would  be  wise  to  start  on  one  that  is 
only  ten  rods  in  area.  Then  after  two  or  three  years' 
experience  you  may  be  able  t'>  manage  a  larger  one 
in  a  profitable  way. 


Supflement  to  "  THE  GARDEN"  January  loth,  1909. 


ROSE    TAUSENDSCHON. 
(W.  PAUL  &  SON.) 


Hudson  &  Keariis,  Lid.,  Frin'ers,  London,  S.E. 


^^ 


GARDEN. 


-=^ 


^s^-^^?- 


■y^= 


No,  1942.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


P'ebruary   6,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


Si>ME    Potatoes     anh 

aosE  Garden 

Peas  for  1909  , .     . . 

(11 

Rose   Carmine    Pillar 

The    Gaideners'    Royal 

as  a  standard  . .     . . 

6" 

Benevolent      Institu- 

GARDENIN8 FOR  BESINNERS 

tion        

(il 

Garden  worlc  week  by 

Prizes  for  Headers . . 

rv^ 

week 

OS 

Notes  op  the  Week 

(>2 

Perpetual  -  flowering 
Carnations  and  how 

COHRESPONDENOE    , 

to  grow  them  . . 

OS 

The    Perpetual- 

The    germination    of 

flowering  Carnation 

seeds  

09 

Society :  An  appeal 

6H 

How    to    treat    seed- 

"Herbaceous"   re 

lings    raised    under 

The  Garden  Show 

ua 

glass  

09 

Trees  and  Shrubs 

The  Town  Garden    .. 

70 

A  lew  good  shrubs    . . 
A  flne  Wistaria  ,.     .. 

64 
fi4 

GARDENINO  OP  THE  WEEK 

For    the  South    and 

mental     fruited 

South  Midlands 

.'U 

IM 

For  the   North    and 

Daffodil  notes 

R5 

North  Midlands    .. 

7() 

Flower  garden 

Editor's  Table 

.1 

The  cultivation  of  the 

GREENHOUSE 

Neapolitan  Violet.. 

ll.'i 

Fortuna  —  a     new 

The  Iceland  Poppy  . . 

OS 

Perpetual  -  flowering 

Crusted  Saxifrages  in 

Carnation 

'a 

the     rock     garden, 

The  value  of  leaf  propa- 

Kew  

6U 

gation    

71 

Fruit  Garden 

Answers    to   corre- 

Fruit notes 

HB 

spondents 

ROSE  Garden 

Flower  garden    . .     . . 

7'i 

Rose    Mrs.     Myles 

Greenhouse 

72 

Kennedy  

67 

Hose  garden       . .     . . 

72 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

The  Rocify  Mountain  Bramble  in  flower 

64 

One  of  the  finest  Wistarias  in  the  country     

66 

Crusted  Rockfoils  on  the  rock  garden  at  Kew      . .     . . 

68 

Flower  of  Rose  Mrs.  Myl 

es  Kennedy 

67 

Perpetual-flowering  Cam 

atio 

as  ..             .                   08 

69 

BDITORIAIi    NOTICES. 

Bvery  depwrtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  Thh 
GAKDBN,  a/nd  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relatiTtg  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  %oishes  to  make 
the  ^^  Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
featwe^  OTid,  when  queries  a/re  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kiTuUy  give  enquirers  the  benefit  0/  their  assistance. 
All  communications  must  be  toritten  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  a/nd  addressed  to  the  Bditob  of  The 
Gabdbn,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  vnll  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasoTUible  oa/re,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  sta/mps 
a/re  enclosed,  he  vnU  endeavowr  to  return  rum-accepted 
oontributiorw.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  tfie  copyright  vrill  be 
treated  vnth.  

The  Editor  loiU  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  Thb  Garden 
xoill  alone  be  recognised  aa  accepta/nce. 


Offices:  W,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


SOME     POTATOES    AND 
PEAS    FOR    1909. 


M" 


note  more  concerns  the  beat  of  the 
nevper  introductions  and  those 
which  have  proved  valuable  addi- 
tions to  the  older  list.  As  regards 
Potatoes  there  are  fewer  novelties, 
if  I  may  so  describe  them,  but  the  later  list 
contains  some  most  valuable  introductions. 
Doubtless  Sutton's  White  City  will  command 
most  attention.  Named  after  the  great  exhi- 
bition of  190S,  this  Potato  is  very  distinct,  and 
when  the  raisers  state  that  it  is  superior  to  the 
well-known  Up-to-Date,  its  excellence  may  be 
considered  superior  to  many  others,  as  Up-to- 
Date  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  varieties 
grown.  In  shape  White  City  is  perfect,  a  kidney 
with  few  eyes,  and  these  set  in  very  small 
cavities.  But  most  growers  will  ask  :  What 
about  flavour?  In  this  respect  it  is  an  ideal 
Potato.  It  is  also  an  enormaus  cropper.  It 
reminds  me  very  much  of  Magnum  Bonum,  which 
Messrs.  Sutton  sent  out  over  thirty  years  ago,  and 
a  Potato  that  proved  one  of  the  most  profitable 
ever  introduced. 

Peas  always  command  attention,  and  of  late 
years  few  vegetables  have  made  greater  strides, 
as  in  May  and  June  we  now  have  produce  equal 
to  the  best  July  Marrowfats,  whereas  formerly  the 
small  white  Peas,  which  were  flavourless  and 
aged  so  quickly,  were  the  only  sorts  available. 
The  year  1907  was  remarkable  for  several  sterling 
new  introductions,  which  trials  since  have  preved 
most  valuable  additions.  In  the  first  earlies  is 
Sutton's  Pioneer,  a  dwarf  Pea  20  inches  in 
height,  remarkably  early  and  of  splendid  quality. 
Pioneer  can  be  sown  very  early,  matures  quickly, 
has  a  fine  pod  and  for  its  earliness  is  unusually 
robust.  It  is  also  a  valuable  variety  for  glass  or 
pot  culture,  the  pods  being  large  and  plentiful. 
Another  very  fine  introduction  is  World's  Record, 
a  large,  early-podding  Marrowfat  growing  .S  feet 
high  and  a  wonderful  cropper ;  grown  for  first 
supplies  it  is  remarkably  early,  having  robust 
haulm  and  Peas  of  delicious  flavour.  King  Edward, 
also  one  of  the  Reading  newer  varieties,  is  a  re- 
markable introduction  for  .June  or  July  gathering, 
and  especially  valuable  to  the  amateur  on  account 
of  its  dwarfness  and  fine  cropping  qualities.  It 
grows  from  2  feet  to  3  feet  high  and  has  a  large, 
thick  pod.  Sown  in  March  it  is  fit  for  table  at 
the  end  of  June,  and  in  size  it  is  not  unlike  Duke 
of  Albany. 

A  new  Pea  which  I  think  will  prove  a  great 
favourite  is  Laxtonian  ;  this  is  very  dwarf  and 
an  ideal  amateur's  Pea  for  those  who  do  not  have 
much  room  at  their  disposal.  It  is  even  earlier 
than  the  well-known  Gradus,  and  was  introduced 


by  Messrs.  Laxton  of  Bedford.  For  many  years 
Messrs.  Veitoh  of  Chelsea  relied  upon  the  excel- 
lent Chelsea  Gem  for  the  first  crop,  and  it  had  few 
equals  ;  it  is  now  second  to  their  splendid  Langley 
Gem,  the  last-named  having  a  much  larger  pod, 
and  is  of  more  robust  growth  and  of  unquestion- 
able quality.  The  pod  contains  eight  to  ten  Peas 
and  the  height  is  the  same  as  the  older  variety. 
It  is  excellent  for  forcing  under  glass  and  for  the 
first  crop  in  the  open.  Those  who  still  grow 
Peas  of  the  American  Wonder  type  would  do 
well  to  note  Carter's  new  Advancement,  a 
cross  between  Daisy  and  American  Wonder,  and 
certainly  a  great  advance  in  every  way.  It  is  a 
good  Pea  as  regards  quality,  very  dwarf, 
enormously  productive  and  one  of  the  hardiest 
Peas  grown.  I  advise  it  for  heavy  soils  early  in 
the  year ;  it  is  a  most  profitable  amateur's 
variety,  as  it  takes  up  so  little  room  and  gives  a 
great  return. 

Of  other  new  Peas,  Carter's  International  is 
very  distinct.  It  is  the  result  of  crossing  Early 
Morn  and  Duke  of  Albany,  and  has  large,  curved 
pods  with  splendid  Peas,  is  a  marvellous  cropper 
and  greatly  superior  to  Duke  of  Albany,  the 
haulm  growing  from  .5  feet  to  fi  feet  high  and 
remarkable  for  its  earliness.  Grown  as  a  main 
season  variety  it  matures  in  a  short  time  and  is 
a  most  reliable  variety  for  a  private  garden,  as 
the  yield  is  so  great  and  the  pods  well  filled  with 
large  Peas.  I  have  counted  a  dozen  in  one  pod. 
On  trial  at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Gardens  this  Pea  obtained  an  award  of  merit  in 
1908.  Of  other  distinct  new  Peas  of  Messrs. 
Carter's,  Harvestman  also  received  an  award  of 
merit  in  190S  ;  this  is  a  grand  main  crop  and  a 
5-feet  variety.  Snowdrop  also  received  an  award 
of  merit  in  1908  in  a  very  large  trial.  This,  a 
cross  between  Early  Morn  and  Express,  may 
be  termed  an  early  Ne  Plus  Ultra  ;  it  is  a  re- 
markable variety  for  its  perfect  flavour,  crop 
and  earliness.  G.  Wythes. 


THE  GARDENERS'  ROYAL 
BENEVOLENT  INSTITUTION 

While  the  resolution  of  amendment  to  Rule  3 
of  the  institution  relating  to  the  State  Old  Age 
Pensions,  published  on  all  the  voting  papers  sent 
to  subscribers  for  the  recent  ballot,  was  unani- 
mously adopted  at  the  annual  meeting  of  the 
subscribers,  it  by  no  means  follows  that,  because 
thus  agreed  to  by  some  thirty  subscribers,  there 
may  not  be  in  the  whole  body  of  members  many 
who  may  disagree  with  or  be  at  least  unwilling  to 
accept  the  decision  of  the  meeting  without  desiring 
further  discussion.  While  the  Benevolent  Fund 
is,  as  its  name  implies,  a  distinctly  charitable 
institution,  many  of  the  gardener  subscribers 
have  regarded  it  largely  as  a  benefit  fund, 
seeing  that  they  have    been  invited  to  become 


6-2 


THE    GARDEN. 


[February  6, 1909. 


subscribers  of  one  guinea  yearly,  because  by  so 
doing  their  chances  of  getting  elected  as 
penEioners  have  thus  been  materially  aided. 
When,  therefore,  it  is  proposed  to  compel  all 
elected  pensioners  henceforth  to  make  application 
for  the  State  Old  Age  Pension  of  ">3.  weekly 
if  seventy  years  of  age  or  upwards,  so  that  the 
quarterly  grant  or  allowance  made  from  the  fund 
may  be  proportionately  reduced,  there  is  a 
possibility  that  many  old  gardeners,  long  sub- 
scribers to  the  fund,  may  feel  much  aggrieved, 
inasmuch  as  they  may  look  to  the  benevolent 
pension  to  save  them  from  the  necessity  of 
becoming  State  pensioners.  Of  course,  now  no 
humiliation  attaches  to  such  position,  seeing  that 
the  State  pensions  its  old  citizens  because  of  long 
and  arduous  life  and  labour  in  the  service  of  the 
country.  All  the  same,  there  may  be  some  con- 
siderable objection  or  diffidence  on  the  part  of 
many  old  subscribers  to  make  the  application 
for  the  State  pension ;  and  if  so,  then  the 
decision  of  the  recent  annual  meeting  may 
cause  some  friction  or  heartburning.  It  is, 
however,  very  pleasant  to  learn  that  the  com- 
mittee has  no  intention  to  make  this  amended 
rule  in  any  way  retrospective  ;  that  is  to  say, 
no  existing  pensioner  will  be  affected.  Even  so 
far  as  it  may  apply  to  future  pensioners,  we  are 
assured  that  the  committee  proposes  to  use  its 
force  tentatively,  and  by  no  means  imperatively. 
Cases  may  occur  in  which  enforcing  it  would  be 
undesirable  ;  in  others  its  application  may  be  a 
matter  of  justice.  But  it  must  be  clearly 
understood  that  this  amendment  to  Rule  3  has 
not  been  brought  forward  in  a  parsimonious 
spirit.  It  is  made  imperative  that  in  all  cases  the 
pensioner  shall  not  suffer  pecuniarily,  and  that  is 
important.  But,  after  all,  it  is  doubtful  whether, 
if  applied  at  once  to  the  newly-elected  pen- 
sioners, any  very  material  pecuniary  gain  would 
result  this  year.  Of  the  twenty-one  candidates 
put  on  the  fund  the  other  day,  ten  only  are  over 
seventy  years  of  age,  eleven  being  under  that 
age ;  hence  any  saving  of  pension  effected  by  the 
candidates  securing  the  State  pension  of  5s. 
weekly  would  be  small  at  first,  and  probably  on 
the  whole  year  might  not  exceed  a  few  pounds. 
Now  the  primary  object  in  proposing  this  amend- 
ment to  Rule  3  was  that,  if  candidates  elected 
on  the  Benevolent  Fund  secured  the  Old  Age 
Pension,  thus  relieving  the  Benevolent  Fund  from 
the  annual  charge  of  making  the  full  grants  of 
£20  or  €16,  there  would  be  saved  sums  which 
might  enable  more  pensioners  to  be  put  on  the 
fund  each  year  than  finances  now  admit.  This 
is  a  most  desirable  and  truly  charitable  aim. 
The  Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent  Institution  is 
indeed  a  noble  charity,  and  merits  the  most 
enthusiastic  support.  When  no  less  than  seventy- 
three  persons,  incapacitated  by  old  age  or  sick- 
ness, ask  for  the  fund's  assistance — and  the  list  of 
ailments  is  indeed  a  sad  and  a  pathetic  one — 
who  can  question  its  necessity?  It  indeed  merits 
universal  support. 


enclosed  in  an  envelcme  marked  "Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  Thh  Gabdbn,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Saturday,  February  27.  Both  amateur  and 
professional  gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  Thb  Gabdbn  will  not  do  bo.  The 
name  and  ekddress  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  oaimot  undertake  to  return  the 
MS8.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
decision  is  final. 


NOTES  OF    THE  WEEK. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 
FEBRUARY. 

THE    BEST    WAYS    OF    USING    A 
COLD    FRAME. 


A  First  PrUe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A   Second  PrUe   of  TWO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  PrUe  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on  the  above 
subject. 

There  are  many  ways  of  using  a  cold  frame, 
such  as  raising  seedlings  and  afterwards  for 
Cucumbers,  &c.  This  should  prove  a  most 
useful  competition. 

The  notes  (restricted  to  1,600  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and   be 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dates  given  helow  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 
February    9. — Royal    Horticultural    Society's 
Meeting.     Horticultural  Club  Annual  Meeting, 
5.30  p.m. ;  Dinner,  6  p.m. 


A  Sweet  Pea  number.— Next  week 
we  shall  publish  a  number  largely  devoted  to 
the  Sweet  Pea,  with  a  coloured  plate.  All  the 
leading  Sweet  Pea  growers  have  contributed 
and  there  will  be  many  interesting  illustrations. 

A    lecture  on  "  Vegetables."— Mr. 

Beckett,  the  well-known  gardener  to  Lord 
Aldenham,  Elstree,  recently  gave  a  most  in- 
structive lecture  on  "  Vegetables  "  before  H.  R.H. 
the  Duchess  of  Albany.  Mr.  Beckett's  knowledge 
of  vegetables  is  extensive,  and  few  have  raised 
more  useful  varieties. 

Winter  vegre tables  and  the  past 

severe  weather.  —  I  never  remember 
noticing  vegetation  so  severely  crippled  after 
such  a  short  spell  of  frost  as  it  is  during  the 
present  season,  and  this  is  not  confined  to  any 
particular  district.  One  certainly  expected  after 
such  growing  weather  as  we  experienced  during 
the  late  autumn  that,  in  the  event  of  a  prolonged 
frost,  serious  consecjuences  would  follow,  but 
certainly  not  to  the  extent  now  presented 
after  only  two  or  three  nights'  frost ;  and  this  not 
only  applies  to  vegetables,  but  many  of  what  are 
generally  considered  to  be  among  our  most  hardy 
shrubs  have  been  terribly  crippled.  Among 
vegetables  which  have  come  under  my  notice 
that  have  suffered  most  are  Brussels  Sprouts, 
Broccoli  (especially  the  early  varieties)  and  many 
of  the  Borecoles,  Kales  and  Celery  where 
unprotected.  I  have  seen  huge  breadths  of 
sprouting  Broccoli  completely  destroyed  both 
on  high,  dry  land  and  in  low  positions  on 
heavy,  retentive  soils.  Among  those  which 
have  proved  to  be  most  hardy  are  Brussels 
Sprouts,  the  various  forms  of  Scotch  Kale, 
Cottagers'  Kale  and  the  new  Russian  Kale  (Chou 
de  Russie),  a  variety  of  much  merit,  which  was 
introduced  by  Messrs.  Carter  and  Co.  and 
worthily  received  a  first-class  certificate  in  1907 
from  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  the  only 
variety  considered  worthy  of  such  after  very 
extensive  trial  at  Wisley.  It  is  extremely  effec- 
tive, hardy  and  of  delicious  flavour,  and  I  feel 
sure  is  destined  to  take  a  foremost  position  when 
better  known  among  our  winter  vegetables. 
The  true  Labrador  Kale  has  also  passed  through 
uninjured,  a  variety  which  should  be  grown  in 
every  garden,  as,  like  the  preceding,  it  is  very 
hardy  and  has  a  distinct  flavour  from  any  other 
green  vegetable  I  am  acquainted  with.  Among 
Broccoli,  with  us  Sutton's  Late  Queen  and 
Veitoh's  Model  have  been  the  least  affected. 
Early-planted  Cabbage  has  been  badly  hit,  but 
the  plants  put  out  later  are  apparently  safe. 
Winter  Spinach  is  looking  remarkably  well  and 
will  prove  to  be  very  serviceable  later  on. — E. 
Beckett. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

How  to  rid  a  ifarden  of  field  mice. 

In  reply  to  a  correspondent  (page  26)  who  seeks 
information  on  this  subject,  I  should  like  to  say 
that  a  good  cat  (or  oats)  and  a  few  dozen  mouse- 
traps will  gradually  get  rid  of  these  pests.  My 
garden,  a  large  one  and  bounded  on  two  sides  by 
grassland,  was,  some  years  ago,  infested  with 
mice.  I  therefore  became  the  possessor  of  a  cat, 
who,  I  think,  kills  on  the  average  two  of  these 
plagues  every  day.  (Here  I  may  mention  that  a 
oat  does  very  little  damage  in  a  country 
garden. )  I  also  keep  about  a  dozen  traps  con- 
tinxially  in  use,  and  am  most  successful  with 
them.  Although  I  grow  more  than  100,000 
Crocuses  (most  of  them  being  in  rough  orchard 
grass)  I  now  scarcely  lose  a  single  bulb.  The 
traps,  which  must  be  set  very  lightly  (break-back 
traps  are  the  best),  should  be  placed  near  plants 
and  bulbs  likely  to  be  attacked  ;  let  them  be 
especially  seen  to  during  the  winter  and  spring. 
I  agree  with  your  correspondent  that  poison  is 
objectionable. — E.  Teschemacheb. 

Tulips  in  grass.— Mr.  Joseph  Jacob,  in 
a  recent  number  of  The  Garden,  raises  the 
interesting  question  of  planting  Tulips  in  the 
grass.  My  experience  is  that  most  kinds, 
although  they  flower  splendidly  the  first  season, 
subsequently  produce  but  small  blossoms,  until, 
about  five  years  from  the  time  of  planting,  the 
bulbs  become  too  small  and  crowded  to  bloom  at 
all.  The  soil  I  have  tried  them  in  is  a  medium 
loam,  which  is  certainly  most  suitable  for  Nar- 
cissi. In  light,  alluvial  soils  they  would,  perhaps, 
do  better.  A  year  last  autumn  I  planted  several 
hundred  Cottage  Maid  Tulips  in  the  grass,  and 
the  following  spring  they  flowered  well.  I  shall 
watch  their  progress  with  interest,  and  if  they 
do  well  shall  photograph  them.  As  Mr.  Jacob 
says,  many  of  the  species  would  doubtless  prove 
successful.  T.  kaufmanniana  should  be  tried,  as 
I  have  heard  of  it  producing  blooms  for  manyyears. 
The  above  remarks  must  not  deter  amateurs 
from  planting  Tulips  in  permanent  positions,  for 
many  May-flowering,  Darwin  and  Parrot  varieties 
thrive  for  many  years  without  being  disturbed  if 
given  rich,  light  soil.  This,  I  fear,  cannot  be 
widely  known,  or  one  would  oftener  see  irregular 
clumps  of  these  precious  bulbs  decking  hardy 
flower  borders  during  May  or  forming  patches 
of  brilliant  colour  in  the  wild  garden.  — E.  T. 

Mr.  Jacob  has  raised  a  ciuestion  which  I 

am  sure  many  would  like  to  see  discussed  further 
in  the  pages  of  The  Garden.  Tulips  would 
be  very  fine  subjects  for  planting  in  the  grass  if 
they  would  only  continue  to  bloom  well  under 
such  conditions.  My  rather  limited  experience 
of  them  here,  on  a  good  loamy  soil  over  clay,  I  am 
sorry  to  say  has  been  the  same  as  Mr.  .Jacob's. 
I  commenced  by  planting  a  number  of  bulbs  of  a 
double  yellow  variety,  which,  on  account  of  its 
lazy  habit  of  resting  its  head  on  the  ground,  was 
disappointing  in  garden  soil.  This  variety  seemed 
to  be  doing  all  right  the  first  season  and  the 
flowers  looked  well  lying  among  the  grass,  but 
they  produced  fewer  blooms  each  year  and  will, 
I  am  afraid,  soon  fail  altogether.  My  next  trial 
was  with  a  single  yellow  variety.  Golden 
Crown,  which  had  increased  very  rapidly  and 
flowered  so  freely  in  the  garden  that  I  thought 
it  would  be  a  good  variety  to  experiment  with. 
The  result  was  a  nice  lot  of  blooms  the  first  year 
from  the  larger  bulbs,  but  scarcely  any  since.  I 
have  tried  T.  sylvestris.  which,  though  interesting, 
does  not  make  much  of  a  show  as  the  flowers  are 
small;  it  continues  to  bloom,  however,  and  I  am 
hoping  it  will  establish  itself.  In  some  very 
favourable  districts  Tulips  may  succeed  in  the 
grass,  and  it  would  be  interesting  to  hear 
the  experiences  of  others,  but  I  think  in  the 
majority  of  cases  money  and  time  would  be  better 
spent  on  other  things. — W.  A.  Watts,  Sf.  Asaph. 


February  6,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


63 


Tulips  in  g^paSS. — Many  persons  will, 
I  think,  agree  with  Mr.  Joseph  Jacob  as  to  the 
results  of  planting  ordinary  Tulips  in  grass ; 
they  gradually  become  weaker  until  only  a  small 
single  leaf  is  left.  Why  ?  There  is  no  apparent 
disease.  It  seems  a  case  of  starvation.  If  so, 
why  are  not  Narcissi  starved?  These,  on  the 
contrary  (as  your  correspondent  says),  increase  in 
vigour.  Can  it  be  that  the  Narcissi  root  deeper 
and  so  find  food  unexhausted  by  the  roots  of  the 
grass  ?  The  roots  of  the  Tulip  are  usually 
weaker  and  shorter  than  those  of  the  Narcissus. 
If  so,  the  case  might  be  met  by  planting  the 
Tulips  deeper,  say,  8  inches  or  9  inches.  Bulbs, 
as  a  rule,  are  not  planted  deep  enough  in  grass. 
Of  the  Tulips  we  have  tried  to  establish,  Tulipa 
gesneriana  and  T.  Golden  Crown  were  the  most 
successful ;  but  these,  after  several  years,  have 
become  too  weak  to  flower.  The  orange  tints  of 
the  latter  variety  harmonised  splendidly  with 
the  Buttercups  which  flowered  at  the  same  time. 
In  the  illustration  (page  30)  the  Tulips  have  the 
appearance  of  being  planted  in  a  prepared  bed 
rather  than  in  the  natural  turf,  and  are  certainly 
thick  enough  to  smother  the  grass  to  their 
own  advantage. — J.  Comber,  Nynams  Oarden.i, 
Crawley,  Sussex. 

The  Perpetual-flowering  Carna- 
tion Society:  An  appeal.— I  am  sorry 
to  learn  from  a  communication  from  the  treasurer 
that  there  is  a  serious  deficit  in  last  year's 
working,  owing  in  a  great  measure  to  the  un- 
expectedly poor  attendance  at  the  show  on 
December  9.  The  Perpetual-flowering  Carnation 
is  so  useful,  and  its  possibilities  so  great,  that 
anything  that  ministers  to  its  extended  cultiva- 
tion and  its  improvement  is  worthy  of  encourage- 
ment. This  society  does  both  these  things.  At  its 
shows  both  buyers  and  sellers  are  able  to  test 
new  varieties  and  compare  them  with  the  old  ; 
its  floral  committee  of  trained  experts  help  us  in 
our  selections ;  and  a  large  membership  and  a  good 
muster  at  its  different  exhibitions  give  encourage- 
ment to  hybridisers  to  persevere  in  their  efforts 
to  give  us  beautiful  flowers.  Incidentally,  it 
tends  to  prevent  adventurers  from  palming  off 
unseen  but  highly  puffed  up  new  varieties, 
which  are  really  poor,  as  if  they  were  very  good. 
Mr.  Hayward  Mathias,  Lucerne,  Stubbington, 
Fareham,  Hants,  is  the  treasurer.  I  am  sending 
him  a  small  subscription  myself.  May  I  appeal  to 
all  amateurs  and  traders  who  love  and  who 
benefit  by  the  Perpetual-flowering  Carnation  to 
follow  my  example,  and  if  they  are  not  members 
to  become  so  at  once. — Joseph  Jacob. 

A  wonderful  fruit. — Humour  too  seldom 
has  a  chance  to  enter  into  the  deliberations  of 
those  grave  and  revered  bodies,  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural fruit  and  floral  committees,  but  a  spice 
of  such  amusement  entered  into  the  work  of 
the  former  body  the  other  day  when  there  was 
gravely  presented  to  them  a  very  commonplace- 
looking,  somewhat  conical  and  slightly  ribbed 
Apple,  not  unlike  the  well-known  Lady  Henniker, 
for  instance,  over  which  a  letter  accompanying 
the  fruit  shed  the  halo  of  originality,  the  said  fruit 
it  was  gravely  said  being  the  product  of  crossing 
the  Apple  and  the  Pear,  and  was  one  of  that 
great  American  Magi's,  Luther  Burbank's,  pro- 
ductions. Every  effort  was  made  by  the  large 
number  of  members  present  to  find  the  Pear 
flavour,  but  no  one  was  smart  enough  to  detect 
it  or  to  find  cause  for  belief  in  the  fruit's  origin. 
A  few  members  thought  the  fertilising  pollen 
might  have  been  that  of  the  Quince,  but  that 
was  exceedingly  problematical.  There  seems 
to  be  no  more  of  harmony  of  interest  between 
Apple  and  Quince  than  between  Apple  and  Pear. 
In  any  case  the  lion  had  brought  forth  a  mere 
mouse,  for  the  Apple  was  of  a  very  moderate 
quality  and  flavour  after  all.  It  seems  to  be  but 
fair  to  Mr.  Burbank,  however,  to  state  that  this 
eminent  hybridist,  who  is  said  to  be  creating 
some  cross-bred  marvels,  appears  to  be  the 
victim  of  enthusiastic  admirers,  who  at  once 
create  beautiful  swans  out  of  small  ducks.     A 


gentleman  of  undoubted  reliability  who  has 
visited  the  scene  of  Mr.  Burbank's  operations 
admits  that  he  is  labouring  hard  and  sincerely 
in  his  efforts  to  create  novelties  in  fruits  and 
vegetables.  So  far  he  seems  to  have  pro- 
duced nothing  that  can  be  regarded  as  new, 
distinct,  or  of  a  novel  nature.  Some  day  later, 
perhaps,  the  world  may  learn  more  fully  what 
this  interesting  personality  has  accomplished. — 
A.  Dean. 

Apple  scab. — That  this  pest  was  very 
prevalent  during  the  past  autumn  on  Apple  fruits 
was  evident,  the  fungus  attacking  the  fruit  on 
trees  that  had  previously  been  quite  free  from  it. 
Probably  very  much  of  the  trouble  was  due  to 
the  season,  which  was,  in  spite  of  there  having 
been  a  large  Apple  crop,  far  from  being  an 
ideal  one.  A  few  days  since,  at  the  Surrey  village 
of  Lingfield,  I  had  some  Apples  so  fearfully 
affected  with  the  fungus  spots  placed  before  me 
that  they  had  literally  eaten  into  the  flesh, 
presenting  the  appearance  of  shot-holes.  It  was 
suggested  that  these  perforations  were  produced 
by  hail,  but  as  they  were  most  in  evidence 
on  the  under-sides  of  the  fruit,  this  discounted 
the  assumption.  The  fungus  having  been  so 
destructive,  this  was  but  natural,  as  moisture 
would  cluster  longer  on  the  under-sides  of  the 
fruit  tlian  on  the  upper  or  exposed  surfaces. 
While  the  climatic  conditions  which  prevailed 
had  much  to  do  with  the  production  of  the 
scab,  there  is  no  doubt  the  condition  of  the 
tree-roots  also  was  an  important  factor  in  the 
same  direction,  and  the  hesitancy,  so  general,  to 
adopt  spraying  with  mild  sulphate  of  copper 
solution  is  a  turther  one.  If  we  could  have  a 
really  warm  summer  and  autumn,  no  doubt  fruits 
would  be  fairly  clean. — A.  D. 

"Herbaceous"  re  "The  Garden" 

ShOVr. — The  enquiry  of  your  correspondent 
"E.  W.  C."  (Thirsk)  re  the  term  "herbaceous''  or 
"  hardy  herbaceous,"  as  per  your  schedule,  opens 
out  a  large  field  for  controversy  ;  but  for  the 
purposes  of  your  schedule  may  be  restricted  to 
(1)  the  meaning  of  the  word  "herbaceous," 
which  is  "a  perennial  root  that  produces  an 
annual  stem.  "  This  excludes  all  shrubby,  semi- 
shrubby  plants,  Dianthus  and  other  perennials, 
growths  of  which  do  not  spring  annually  from 
below,  or  practically  from  the  surface  of,  the 
soil.  It  excludes  biennials,  such  as  Canterbury 
Bells,  Foxgloves,  Eryngium  giganteum.  Coreop- 
sis lanceolata  and  grandiflora  (the  last  named  is 
rather  a  big  loss  to  a  possible  stand  of  hardy 
border  flowers)  and  others,  which,  though  used 
by  exhibitors  at  times  and  passed  occasionally  by 
the  judges,  are  not  herbaceous.  The  term 
"  hardy  "  should  be  understood  to  include  only 
such  herbaceous  plants  as  provide  resistance  to,  or 
an  immunity  from,  frost  in  the  open  ground  and 
only  such  as  are  cultivated  in  the  open  ;  but  to 
place  exhibitors  on  an  equal  footing,  the  degree 
of  hardihood  should  be  determined  under  con- 
ditions existing  in  the  South  of  England,  thus 
allowing  North  Country  growers  to  afford  shelter 
and  protection  to  some  of  the  more  tender  sub- 
jects, such  as  Gladioli  in  variety.  Lobelia 
cardinalis  in  variety,  Anchusas,  Hyaointhus 
candicans,  Montbretias,  (fee,  which  might  other- 
wise be  permitted  to  growers  in  the  South,  but 
be  excluded  from  collections  grown  in  the 
North.  Before  closing  these  few  notes,  I  might 
point  out  that  the  judging  of  these  classes  is  a 
matter  of  great  difficulty  and  often  disappoint- 
ing (1)  owing  to  there  being  no  restriction  as  to 
the  size  of  the  bunuhes  (this  can  only  be  regu- 
lated by  stipulating  the  size  of  the  tubes,  all 
flowers  forming  the  bunch  to  touch  the  water  in 
the  tubes),  and  (2)  because  the  varieties  com- 
prising the  collections  being  of  different  species, 
requiring  some  more,  some  less,  skilful  cultiva- 
tion, thus  giving  no  common  basis  for  com- 
parison. To  my  mind  a  small  bunch  of  well- 
grown  flowers  showing  the  character  of  the 
variety  should  find  greater  favour  than  a  large 
one  of  moderately  well-grown  flowers  ;  but  how 


often  "  weight "  tells  those  whose  gardens  are 
small  can  best  testify.  I  contend  merit  in  culti- 
vation should  be  the  chief  factor  in  deciding  the 
plaoings.  Judging  should  be,  I  think,  by  points, 
say,  six  points  per  bunch  as  a  maximum,  with, 
say,  ten  points  for  arrangement  and  effective 
staging.  A  reprint  of  the  "  Rules  for  Judging 
Hardy  Perennials,"  issued  some  time  ago  by  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society,  would  prove  of 
interest  to  your  readers. — R.  E.  Shanks. 

The  claBBiflcation  of  perpetual- 
flowering:  Roses.  —  The  Rev.  J.  H. 
Pemberton's  letter  in  The  Garden  of  the  9th 
inst.  is  one  of  the  most  interesting,  and  I  believe 
will  prove  to  be  most  contentious,  to  the  Rose 
world.  No  doubt  the  point  must  be  settled 
very  soon,  and  it  is  so  nice  that  everyone  will 
have  to  give  way  a  little.  To  begin  with,  there 
are  two  names  commonly  used  which  are  most 
misleading  to  the  ordinary  garden-lover,  viz.. 
Hybrid  Perpetual  and  garden  Roses.  I  am 
often  asked :  "  What  do  you  mean  by  garden 
Roses  ?  Are  they  not  all  garden  Roses  ? "  In 
renaming  I  would  suggest  they  be  called  the 
Hybrids  (the  Perpetual  being  lett  out),  and  the 
garden  Roses  should  be  named  the  decorative 
Roses.  The  other  sections,  viz..  Teas,  Noisettes, 
Hybrid  Teas,  Chinas,  &c. ,  must  surely  stand  as 
they  are  and  not  be  thrown  in  together  to  make  a 
grand ' '  hash  "  of  the  lot.  The  Rev.  J.  H.  Pember- 
ton,  I  think,  writes  a  good  deal  from  the  exhibitor's 
point  of  view  ;  but,  of  oourse,  the  schedules  can 
always  be  made  out  to  allow  the  Hybrids,  the 
Teas  and  the  Hybrid  Teas  to  be  exhibited 
together  if  that  be  the  desire.  Still,  I  hope  the 
Anglo-Sax-Norman  principle  will  not  be  con- 
sidered even  by  the  National  Rose  Society.  The 
really  moot  point  is  the  large  numbers  of  Hy4>rid 
Teas  which  are  now  being  introduced  and  which 
will  be  much  larger  than  any  other  section.  Let 
them  all  come — they  are  very  beautiful  and 
welcome ;  but  let  them  be  defined  correctly  as 
Hybrids  or  Hybrid  Teas  and  not  Teas.  To  my 
mind  the  Coohets  are  really  true  Teas,  strong 
growing  if  you  like,  but  as  delicate  as  any  of  the 
section.  Mrs.  Mawley  I  have  never  believed  to 
be  a  Tea  Rose.  Look  how  it  mildews,  and  right 
into  the  wood,  too  !  Harry  Kirk  and  Mrs.  Myles 
Kennedy  are  both  Hybrid  Teas  to  my  thinking  ; 
but  I  believe  these  were  put  into  the  Tea  class 
simply  to  strengthen  it,  as  so  few  new  Teas 
are  sent  out.  It  will  be  interesting  to  note  how 
our  Continental  and  other  growers  will  class 
them  in  a  year  or  so.  Charles  J.  Grahame,  J.  B. 
Clark  and  Hugh  Dickson  are  really  Hybrid 
Perpetuals;  and  if  Ulrioh  Brunner  and  Marie 
Finger  were  sent  out  now  they  would  assuredly 
be  called  Hybrid  Teas.  It  is  the  fashion,  and 
they  sell.  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  by  its  wonderful 
mass  of  blooms  in  the  autumn,  is  more  entitled  to 
the  name  of  Hybrid  Tea  than  any  of  the  above. 
One  swallow  does  not  make  a  summer,  nor 
does  one  miserable  little  flower  in  the  autumn 
make  a  Perpetual.  If  you  amalgamate  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas  and 
call  them,  say,  the  "  Hotchy  Potchies"  and 
show  them  under  this  name,  then  the  rugosas, 
Cliinas,  Polyauthas,  &c. ,  would,  I  suppose,  be 
dubbed  the  "  Wata  Watas,"  and  so  on.  I  trust, 
however,  Mr.  Editor,  this  will  not  take  place. 
The  only  thing  really  required  is  that  Roses  as 
they  are  sent  out,  or  alter  they  have  been  in 
commerce  a  year  or  so,  should  be  properly  defined 
by  a  competent  committee.  We  must  keep  to 
the  ordinary  definitions,  if  only  for  the  man  who 
wants  Roses  solely  for  his  home,  and  he  is 
numbered  by  the  ten  thousand  while  the  exhibitor 
is  only  in  tens.  He  wants  to  know  the  strongest 
growers  and  hardiest  Roses  for  his  town  garden, 
with  northern  aspects,  &c.  Well,  a  dozen  "  Hoochy 
Potchies"  would  not  do  for  him;  he  would 
require  a  dozen  of  the  hardiest  Hybrids  and 
Hybrid  Teas.  There  is  sure  to  be  mure  said  on 
this  subject. — George  Prince,  "  Tke  Oxford 
Rosea,"  Longworth.  [We  hope  this  question  will 
be  taken  up  by  rosarians  ;  it  is  impoitant. — Ei'.  J 


64 


THE     GARDEN. 


[February  6, 1909, 


TREES    AND   SHRUBS. 


A    FEW    GOOD    SHRUBS. 


T 

I  to  the    few   common   subjects  which 

I  are    repeated    again    and    again    in 

most  gardens. 

A    Double    Deutzia     (D.    crenata     flore- 

PLENO).  — Notwithstanding    the    fact   that  this 

Deutzia  is  easily  propagated  and  a  cheap  plant  in 


R.  sub-deciduum.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  hybrid 
between  Rhododendron  ponticum  and  one  of  the 
hardy  Azaleas,  and,  according  to  Loudon,  was 
raised  about  1820.  The  flowers  of  this  Azalea 
vary  a  good  deal  in  colour,  for  in  some  they  are 
very  much   of  the  hue  of  Rhododendron  ponti 


HE  following   shrubs  are    both    orna 

mental  and  distinct,  while,  judiciously    cum,  while  in  others  they  are  nearly  white,  and 
planted,  they  afford  a  pleasing  variety  ]  various  intermediate  shades  of  lilac  and  mauve 

are  also  represented  among  them.  The  leafage, 
too,  is  by  no  means  uniform,  that  of  some 
plants  being  very  much  paler  than  others, 
and  while  a  few  of  them  are  almost  if  not  quite 
deciduous,  the  majority  of  them  retain  a  good 
many  of  their  leaves  throughout  the  winter.  A 
nurseries,  a  good  specimen  of  it  is  not  often  met    bed  of  this  Azalea  is  a  very  beautiful  object  at 


with,  yet  at  its  best  it  is  really  a  very  beautiful 
shrub.  Apart  from  the  beauty  of  the  blo.asoms 
they  are  borne  in  the  greatest  profusion.  It  is 
not  particular  as  to  soil  and  situation,  but 
succeeds  best  in  a  fairly  deep  open  loam  that  is 
not  dried  up  during  the  summer.  As  with  many 
of  the  Spirseas,  this  Deutzia  is  much  improved 
by  a  little  extra  attention,  for  the  trimming  out 
of  old  and  exhausted  wood  allows  the  younger 
and  more  vigorous  shoots  a  better  opportunity 


a  time  when  most  of  the  hardy  Azaleas  are  over. 
During  sunshine  the  fragrance  of  the  blossoms  is 
very  noticeable. 

Magnolia  stellata. — This  is  one  of  the  early- 
flowering  Magnolias  and  blooms  about  the  same 
time  as  the  Yulan,  but  unlike  that  magnificent 
tree,  this  will  flower  freely  when  not  more  than 
2  feet  high.  It  forms  a  numerous-branched  bush, 
while  the  flowers,  which  are  each  about  .3  inches 
in  diameter,  are  composed  of  several  strap-like 


to  develop  themselves,  which  treatment  results    pure  white  petals.     A    small    bed  planted  with 


in  finer  blossoms.  There  are  two  well-marked 
forms  of  this  double  Deutzia,  and  it  is  difficult 
to  say  which  is  the  more  beautiful.  The  first, 
known  by  the  names  of  eandidissima  plena  and 
Pride  of  Ro:!hester,  produces  pure  white  blossoms, 
while  the  second  has  the  outside  of  the  petals 
deeply  tinged  with  a  kind  of  rosy  purple.  This 
feature  is  especially  noticeable  in  the  bud  state, 
but  it  is  also  prominent  in  all  stages  of  the 
flower. 


this  Magnolia  and  carpeted  with  the  North 
American  Partridge  Berry  (Gaultheria  pro- 
cumbens)  forms  a  very  pleasing  feature,  as  the 
white  flowers  contrast  with  the  bronze  leaves 
and  bright  red  berries  of  the  Gaultheria,  while 
as  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  covered, 
the  blooms  of  the  Magnolia  are  not  so  liable 
to  be  splashed  during  heavy  rains  as  they 
would  be  without  something  of  the  kind. 
Magnolia  halleana  is  also  another  name  for  this 


Azalea  odorata. — This  possesses  a  plurality    species, 
of  names,  for  besides  the  above  it  is  also  known        Rhodottpos  keerioides. — The  specific  name 
as  Azalea  fragrans.  Rhododendron  azaleoides  and    of  this  is  very  appropriate,  for  it  much  resembles 

the  well-known  Jew's 
Mallow  (Kerria 
japoniea),  except  that 
the  blooms  are  larger 
and  pure  white,  like 
single  Roses.  It  is 
a  native  of  .Japan, 
whence  it  was  intro- 
duced in  IS6(i,  quite 
hardy,  not  at  all  par- 
ticular as  to  soil  and 
will  flower  for  months 
together. 

IXDIGOFERA   FLOBI- 

BUNDA. —  Though 
more  tender  than  any 
of  the  preceding  and 
often  treated  as  a 
wall  plant  with  satis- 
factory results,  this 
Indigofera  is  very 
beautiful  in  the  open 
ground,  for  even  if 
cut  down  in  winter 
it  quickly  recovers, 
and  not  only  grows 
away  freely,  but  will 
flower  towards  the 
end  of  the  summer. 
In  the  open  it  forms 
a  rather  spreading 
bush,  clothed  with 
beautiful  light- 
coloured  pinnate 
leaves,  and  about 
August  is  plentifully 
furnished  with  spikes 
of  bright  rosy  pink 
blossoms.  In  common 
with  many  legumi- 
nous plants,  this  In- 
digofera, from  the 
deep  -  descending 
nature  of  its  roots, 
will  thrive  in  rather 
light  sandy  soils 
better  than  man}' 
other  subject". 


Rrp.ua  DELiciosus  (the  Rocky  Mountain 
Bramble),  of  which  an  illustration  is  given,  is 
widely  removed  from  any  other  Brambles.  Its 
slender  branches  are  clothed  with  Currant-like 
leaves,  and  the  blooms  resemble  pure  white  Dog 
Roses.  Like  the  last,  this  is  often  trained  to  a 
wall,  and  in  such  a  situation  it  flowers  profusely  ; 
as  a  shrub,  too,  in  the  open  ground  it  usually 
blooms  well.  It  has  been  introduced  into  this 
country  many  years. 

Daphsiphyllum  (iLAUCESCENS.— This  differs 
from  the  whole  of  the  foregoing  in  being  evergreen 
in  character,  and  it  must  be  regarded  as  a 
decidedly  ornamental  member  of  this  class.  It 
forms  a  sturdy  -  growing,  freely  -  branched, 
rounded,  leafy  bush.  The  leaves  are  each 
6  inches  or  7  inches  long  and  2  inches  wide. 
The  upper  part  of  the  leaf  is  of  a  delicate  pale 
green,  while  the  under  surface  is  clothed  with  a 
bluish  grey  glauceseence.  The  bark  of  the 
young  shoots  and  the  midribs  of  the  leaves,  as 
well  as  their  stalks,  are  red.  A  variety  of  this 
last  is  jessoensis,  whose  leaves  are  smaller  and 
more  rounded,  while  the  plant  is  dwarfer  in 
growth.  This  is  rather  more  tender  than  the 
type,  which  is  scarcely  ever  injured,  even 
during  severe  frosts.  W. 


THE  ROCKY    MOUNTAIN  BRAMBLE  (rUBUS   DELICIOSUS)   IX   FI.dWEH. 


A  FINE  WISTARIA. 
The  Wistaria  shown  in  the  illustration  on  page  65 
grows  on  a  wall  facing  south  in  the  garden  of 
Doddington  Hall,  Lincoln,  an  old  Elizabethan 
house  with  a  walledin  garden,  of  which  the  illus- 
tration shows  a  part.  The  Wistaria  has  been 
planted  over  forty  years  and  the  soil  is  sandy. 

THREE    BEAUTIFUL    ORNAMENTAL 

FRUITED  SHRUBS. 
At  Kew  numerous  charming  examples  of  hardy 
shrubs  may  be  noted,  and  during  a  visit  there 
last  autumn  the  following  struck  me  as  par- 
ticularly noteworthy,  as  they  were  exceedingly 
bright,  cheerful  and  absolutely  distinct  from 
each  other  : 

Hippophai-  rhamnoideti  (Sea  Buckthorn). — 
There  is  a  large  clump  of  this  on  the  bank  of  the 
lake  between  the  Museum  and  the  Palm  House. 
The  plants,  consisting  for  the  most  part  of 
females,  had  the  Willow- like  shoots  closely 
packed  for  some  distance  with  their  bright 
orange-coloured  berries,  and  as  seen  at  Kew 
there  is  no  other  shrub  with  which  this  Hippophae 
can  be  for  one  moment  confounded.  In  addition 
to  this,  its  equal  in  beauty  would  be  extremelj' 
difficult  to  find.  It  maj'  be  noted  that  this 
Hippophai'  is  di't-eious,  that  is  to  say,  male  and 
female  flowers  are  borne  on  separate  plants. 
Such  being  the  ease,  in  order  to  ensure  fertilisa- 
tion one  male  should  be  allowed  to  about  half-a- 
dozen  females.  On  the  males,  of  course,  no 
berries  will  be  found.  When  planted  near 
water  as  at  Kew  the  Sea  Buckthorn  finds  a 
congenial  home. 

Symphoricarpux  racemoetis  (Snowberry). — The 
fact  that  the  large,  conspicuous  and  freely  borne 
berries  of  this  North  American  shrub  are  pure 
white  causes  it  to  stand  out  in  a  marked  manner 
from  its  associates,  as  fruits  of  that  tint  are  but 
little  represented  among  hardy  shrubs.  The 
Snowberry  is  well  known  as  a  shrub  that  will 
hold  its  own  even  in  dry  sandy  soils,  but  its 
beauty  when  in  fruit  is  so  great  that  it  may  with 
advantage  often  be  planted  under  more  favour- 
able conditions. 

Ct/astnts  articnlatii-^. — This  is  an  exceedingly 
vigorous  twining  shrub  of  a  deciduous  nature 
which  was  sent  to  this  country  a  few  years  ago 
from  Japan.  It  is  not  in  any  way  adapted  for 
formal  training,  but  treated  as  at  Kew,  where  it 
rambles  over  a  sloping  arrangement  formed  of  a 
few  poles,  it  soon  covers  a  considerable  space. 
Allowed  to  grow  at  will,  the  long,  flexible  shoots 
often  intertwine  around  each  other  and  fre- 
quently dispose  themselves  in  a  loose  and  informal 
manner.     For   a   considerable   portion    of    their 


February  6,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


65 


length  they  are  studded  with  clusters  of  bright- 
coloured  fruits,  borne  on  short-stalked  clusters. 
When  ripe  they  are  yellow  in  colour,  but  like 
the  fruits  of  the  Euonymus,  to  which  the  Celastrus 
is  nearly  allied,  after  a  while  they  split  open  and 
thus  disclose  the  red  seeds  within.  In  this  stage 
they  remain  a  considerable  time,  and  in  Japan  the 
long  sprays  are  then  used  for  decorative  purposes 
indoors.  H.  P. 


DAFFODIL     NOTES. 

Daffodils    in    Pots. 

I  HAVE  been  enjoying  a  few  pots  of  good 
Daffodils  almost  all  January.  It  is  true 
I  had  none  for  the  dinner-table  on  New 
Year's  Day,  but  this  was  exceptional. 
There  is  no  difficulty  whatever  in  having 
both  Henry  Irving  and  obvallaris  (Tenby 
Daffodil)  out  in  full  flower  then.  The  only  thing 
is  to  get  the  bulbs  early  in  August  and  pot 
them  immediately,  taking  care  that  they  have 
sufficient  moisture  to  promote  root  growth 
should  there  then  be  a  long  spell  of  dry  weather, 
and  bringing  them  about  mid-November  into  a 
cool  greenhouse  temperature,  which  may  be 
increased  or  the  pots  removed  to  a  warmer  part 
of  the  house  when  December  is  well  in.  I 
always  have  some  Golden  Spur  to  follow  as  a 
second  early.  It  is  more  floriferous  than  either 
of  the  others,  but  never  seems  quite  as  satis- 
factory for  the  very  earliest  batch.  It  lacks 
that  stiffness  which  stands  both  Henry  Irving 
and  Tenby  in  such  good  stead.  A  little  later  on, 
however,  it  is  excellent.  This  winter  I  have  been 
growing  the  ordinary  Campernelle  and  also  the 
rugulosus  variety  in  considerable  quantity  as 
cut  flowers. 

With  the  same  treatment  as  I  have  above 
indicated  I  had  a  nice  little  gathering  on 
January  13.  The  stems  were  long  and  strong 
and  the  blooms  themselves  very  fair  indeed.  I 
found  the  ordinary  variety  a  little  the  eailiest,  but 
the  secondary  spikes  were  very  apt  to  be  blind. 
Still,  there  were  quite  enough  good  ones  to  make 
it  well  worth  while  for  anyone  to  grow  it  for 
cutting.  The  rugulosus  variety  is  not  so  free, 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  it  has  not  so  many  blind 
flowers. 

As  I  consider  the  question  of  what  to  grow 
and  what  to  avoid  for  early  pot  work  very 
important,  I  am  trying  an  experiment  which 
may  be  of  some  practical  utility  in  this  direction. 
Its  primary  object  is  to  test  whit  influence 
the  early  and  late  ripening  of  bulbs  has  on  the 
quality  and  time  of  their  flowering.  To  put  it 
in  a  concrete  form,  what  I  am  endeavouring  to 
find  out  is  the  practical  results  of  a  Penzance 
ripened  bulb  compared  with  one  from  Lowdham, 
and  how  both  these  compare,  say,  with  Lissadell 
or  Dutch  grown  ones.  I  hope  later  on  in  the 
season  to  devote  a  special  article  to  this  trial. 

Yellow  Stripe. 

I  have  just  been  reading  an  American  work 
on  the  Daffodil  by  A.  M.  Kirby.  It  is  one  of  the 
Garden  Library  Series,  and  published  in  New 
York.  As  I  laid  the  book  down  I  said  to 
myself,  "Happy  America."  "One  insect  and 
one  disease,"  and  that  disease  not  yellow 
stripe,  but  only  our  old  friend  basal  rot. 
Happy  America,  indeed,  not  to  know  yellow 
stripe.  We  have  it  here  in  the  Old  Country, 
I  regret  to  say,  and  it  seems  to  be  increasing. 
A  good  summary  of  all  that  seems  to  be 
known  about  it  can  be  read  in  the  Journal 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  for 
November,  1908  (Vol.  XXXIV. ,  Part  II. ),  in  an 
article  by  Mr.  Darlington.  The  verdict  he  gives 
is,  "Nothing  proven,"  "More  facts  wanted." 
I  mention  this  now  because  any  observations 
bearing  on  the  subject,  if  carefully  made 
and  recorded,  cannot  fail  to  be  of  value  in 
trying  to  get  to  the  bottom  of  this  mysterious 
visitation.  .To.sepu  Jacoi!. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

THE    CULTIVATION    OF    THE 
NEAPOLITAN    VIOLET. 

WERE  one  to  pause  for  a  moment 
to  enquire  what  are  the  recom- 
mendations necessary  to  con- 
stitute a  popular  flower,  we 
should  discover  that  a  due  pro- 
portion of  floral  beauty  either 
added  to  or  apart  from  exquisite  fragrance  con- 
stitute the  essential  requisites  in  order  to  com- 
mand a  share  of  general  admiration.  Simplicity 
of  culture  does  not  appear  to  be  at  all  a  necessary 
adjunct,  for  some  of  our  most  favourite  flowers 
require  a  minutely  particular  and  assiduous  course 
of  treatment  in  order  to  secure  that  state  of  per- 
fection for  which  their  inflorescence  is  so  especi- 
ally prized.  When,  however,  a  beautiful  and 
fragrant  flower  adds  to  its  other  charms  that  of 
being  easily  grown,  we  cannot  hesitate  to  consider 
it  as  an  important  advantage.  Of  its  attractive- 
ness one  need  not  write,  and  as  it  breathes  out  a 
fragrance  scarcely  equalled,  and  certainly  not 
excelled,  it  is  a  matter  of  surprise  that  the 
Neapolitan  Violet  does  not  rank  higher  in 
popular  estimation. 

That  its    cultivation    is    not    attended    with 
extraordinary    difficulty   will   be   evident    from 


the  frame  the  surface  of  the  soil  may  be  about 
15  inches  from  the  glass.  After  a  few  days  the 
plants  may  be  taken  up  carefully,  the  runners 
trimmed  off,  and  planted  at  9  inches  asunder 
each  way  in  the  frame.  When  planted  give  a 
moderate  watering,  which  may  be  repeated  once 
or  twice  when  the  plants  seem  to  require  it. 

During  the  two  or  three  succeeding  months, 
viz.,  throughout  August,  September  and  October, 
they  should  receive  all  the  air  possible  by  allowing 
the  lights  to  remain  off  day  and  night,  except  in 
wet  weather.  An  occasional  light  shower  during 
the  earlier  part  of  the  autumn  will  not  be  found 
to  injure  them  ;  but  it  is  highly  important  to 
prevent  the  soil  from  imbibing  too  much  moisture, 
this  being  their  greatest  enemy  through  the 
winter.  When  the  nights  begin  to  get  cold,  the 
lights  should  be  placed  over  them,  taking  care  to 
remove  them  through  the  day  in  fine,  mild 
weather.  In  the  dull,  heavy  weather  which 
generally  prevails  in  November  and  December 
it  is  not  advisable  to  take  off  the  lights  ;  air 
should,  however,  be  admitted  by  tilting  up  the 
light  a  few  inches  either  at  the  back  or  front  of 
the  frame,  according  as  the  current  of  wind  may 
proceed  from  the  north  or  south,  arranging  it  so 
that  the  wind  does  not  blow  directly  on  the  plants. 
When  they  begin  to  flower,  which  is  usually 
from  December  throughout  the  winter  and  spring, 
air  should  be  less  abundantly  admitted,  which 


ONE   OF  THE  FINEST   WISTARIAS  IN  THE  COtJNTRY— IN    A   LINCOLNSHIRE  GARDEN. 


the  routine  of  treatment  recommended  below, 
which  will  be  found  abundantly  sufficient  to 
ensure  success.  As  early  in  the  spring  as  runners 
are  to  be  obtained,  take  them  off  and  plant  them 
a  few  inches  apart  in  light,  sandy  soil,  covering 
them  with  a  hand-glass  and  shading  from  the 
sun  if  necessary  ;  they  will  generally  be  in  a  fit 
state  by  about  the  latter  end  of  April,  and  two 
or  three  weeks  after  they  are  taken  off'  they  will 
be  well  rooted  and  ready  for  transplantation. 

Prepare  for  them  a  bed  of  light,  rich  soil  on  a 
warm  border  having  a  south-west  exposure ; 
then  take  up  the  plants  carefully  and 
plant  them  at  about  9  inches  apart  in  the  pre- 
pared soil,  frequently  loosening  the  surface  with 
the  hoe,  keeping  the  plants  free  from  weeds  and 
assiduously  administering  water  in  dry  weather. 
About  the  beginning  of  August  make  a  bed  of 
faggot  wood  about  3  feet  in  height  at  the  back 
and  2^  feet  in  front,  facing  the  south,  and  large 
enough  for  a  one-light  or  two-light  frame, 
according  to  the  quantity  which  it  may  be 
thought  desirable  to  cultivate.  On  this  wood 
spread  a  layer  of  about  6  inches  of  newly-rotted 
manure,  and  on  this  place,  1  foot  thick,  a  com- 
post prepared  by  mixing  in  the  proportion  of 
one  barrow-load  of  sandy  loam  to  two  barrow- 
loads  of  sharp  sand.  These  should  be  well 
incorporated  and  mixed  some  time  previously. 
Contrive  so  that  when  this  compost  is  placed  in 


will  induce  the  buds  to  expand  more  freely. 
Some  air  should,  however,  be  admitted  in  order 
to  improve  the  odour  of  the  blossoms. 

As  soon  as  frost  commences,  the  bed  and 
frame  must  be  well  cased  round  with  coarse  long 
litter  and  the  glass  matted  at  night.  This 
must  be  continued  throughout  the  winter,  pro- 
portionally increasing  the  coverings,  so  as  to 
effectually  preclude  frost.  In  severe  and  continued 
frost  it  is  almost  impossible  to  avoid  having 
the  mats  and  covering  on  the  glass  during  the 
day.  This  should,  however,  be  avoided  as  much 
as  circumstances  permit,  removing  them  so  as  to 
admit  a  portion  of  light,  if  it  is  only  for  an  hour  or 
two  ;  at  all  other  times  the  covering  should  be 
removed  throughout  the  day.  Water  at  this 
season,  if  not  totally  denied  them,  should  only  be 
administered  in  very  small  quantities,  and  not  at 
all  unless  it  is  absolutely  required.  R.  Gill. 
(To  6e  cmdirmed.) 

THE  ICELAND  POPPY. 
Few  flowers  are  more  esteemed  for  decorations 
than  those  of  the  Iceland  Poppies.  The  plant  is 
easily  grown,  and  can  be  flowered  the  same  year 
when  sown  early  and  planted  out  in  the  garden. 
If  sown  in  boxes  placed  in  moderate  heat  in 
February,  the  young  plants  gradually  hardened 
off  and  finally  planted  out,  an  abundance  of  flowers 
can  be  gathered  from  .Tuly  onwards.     Seed  sown 


66 


THE     (lARDEN. 


[February  6, 1909. 


outside  in  April  will  produce  flowering  plants 
during  the  autumn  i(  given  good  culture.  In 
many  gardens  old  plants  of  these  Poppies  perish 
during  the  winter,  especially  in  low-lying,  flat 
districts ;  but  young  plants  will  survive,  and 
those  are  most  useful  for  providing  an  early 
supply  of  flowers.  To  obtain  these  seed  should 
be  sown  in  -luly,  the  seedlings  planted  out  when 
large  enough  and  attention  paid  to  pressing  the 
soil  firmly  around  their  roots  after  a  spell  of  frost 
during  the  winter.  Some  growers  induce  the 
plants  to  give  an  early  supply  of  flowers  by 
placing  frames  over  them  during  winter.  If  care 
is  taken  to  supply  abundance  of  air,  removing 
the  lights  entirely  on  all  suitable  occasions,  this 
method  may  be  safely  adopted.  Shallow  frames 
should  be  used,  otherwise  the  foliage  is  liable  to 
becoTie  weak  and  present  a  blanched  appearance 
owing  to  the  obstruction  of  light.  When  this 
occurs  the  plants  are  weakened  and  will  not 
flower  satisfactorily.  Early  flowers  are  always 
most  welcome,  especially  where  quantities  are 
required  regularly  for  dinner-table  and  other 
decorations.  Seed  of  the  following  colours  can 
be  obtained  :  Pure  white,  orange  scarlet,  scarlet, 


Another  valuable  section  is  the  Megasea  group, 
the  plants  of  which  are  entirely  different  in 
aspect  to  the  above.  This  group  includes  the 
Siberians,  cardifolia  and  the  Indian  S.  ligulata. 
They  have  large,  leathery  leaves  which,  in  the 
first-named,  are  evergreen,  and  produce  their 
rose-coloured  flowers  in  dense  bunches  in  early 
spring.  For  pUnting  on  rough  banks  they  are 
very  effective,  or  they  may.be  used  with  advantage 
in  the  form  of  large  groups  in  the  wild  garden 
or  open  woodland.  Then  there  is  the  umbrosa 
section,  of  which  the  London  Pride  is  the  liest- 
known  example,  a  valuable  plant  for  borders  and 
shady  places.  Distinct  in  colour  and  habit  is 
the  purple  Rookfoil  (S.  oppositifolia)  with  its 
creeping  stems,  and  rosy  purple  flowers  in  the 
typical  plant.  A  large  form  of  this  comes  from 
the  Pyrenees,  and  there  is  also  a  pretty  white 
variety.  They  are  early  spring-flowering  plants 
and  require  a  half-shady,  moist  bank. 

Perhaps  the  most  important  section  of  all  is 
the  crusted  one,  which  includes  many  handsome 
and  valuable  garden  plants.  A  group  of  these 
is  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration,  which 
gives  some  idea  as  to  their  value  for  this  purpose. 


CRUSTED  BOCKFOILS  ON   TUB   BOCK   GARDKN    AT   KKW. 


shades  of  lemon,  cream,  buff  and  pink.  A  mixed 
packet  of  seed  will  produce  hundreds  of  plants 
of  the  above  in  delicate  shades  of  colour,  and  I 
am  confident  that  the  beginner  who  is  successful 
with  these  charming  Poppies  will  not  fail  to 
keep  up  an  annual  supply.  C.  Ruse. 


CRUSTED     SAXIFRAGES    IN    THE 

ROCK  GARDEN,  KEW. 
One  of  the  most  valuable  groups  of  alpine  plants 
that  we  possess,  viz.,  the  Hockfoils,  constitute 
a  very  numerous  family  composed  of  many  diverse 
forms.  These  are  easily  divided  into  several 
distinct  sections,  of  which  the  best  known  are 
the  mossy,  crusted  and  Megasea  divisions. 
Belonging  to  the  mossy  section  we  have  such  as 
S.  hypnoides  (l)ovedale  Moss)  in  its  numerous 
forms  ;  S.  muscoides,  of  which  there  are  many 
varieties ;  and  S.  o;i-3pitosa.  These  all  form 
mossy  tufts  of  the  freshest  green,  and  no  plant 
is  mure  useful  for  forming  carpets  than  these. 
They  thrive  on  half-shady  banks  or  raised  level 
ground  as  well  as  on  the  lower  positions  of  the 
rock  garden,  and  no  plants  are  more  easy  to 
grow  or  increase  by  division. 


There  are  many  species  and  varieties  of  great 
merit  which  may  be  considered  among  the 
easiest  of  plants  to  grow,  provided  they  are 
planted  among  plenty  of  stones  to  secure  ample 
drainage.  On  old  walls  they  may  be  planted  to 
great  advantage,  especially  where  the  wall  is 
backed  by  soil  and  the  stones  are  loosely  put 
together  without  mortar.  Here  the  rosettes  may 
be  inserted  between  the  stones  when  in  a  small 
condition,  and  soon  make  respectable  tufts  that 
produce  a  profusion  of  flowers  annually  when 
establiched.  Fissures  in  large  masses  of  rook 
may  also  be  utilised  for  planting  crusted  Saxi- 
frages, and  nothing  is  more  effective  than  silvery 
cushions  of  these  plants  growing  out  of  a  narrow 
crevice  and  covered  with  long,  light  panicles 
of  pure  white  flowers.  Fven  when  not  in 
flower,  the  large  rosettes  of  silver-edged  leaves 
are  most  ornamental.  The  best  of  this  section 
are  : 

Saxijrayu  ralaloiiica,  from  the  Pyrenees,  one 
of  the  choicest  and  rarest  species,  with  rosettes  of 
recurved  leaves  having  a  broad  silver  margin  and 
panicles  of  white  flowers 

»y.  coehlfarin  may  be  described  as  one  of  the 
neatest  and  prettiest  in  habit, with  small  rosettes 


of  silvery  spoon-shaped  leaves  packed  closely 
together  and  forming  a  dense  mass.  The  flowers 
are  produced  in  graceful  panicles. 

S.  Colykdon  is  easily  known  by  its  broad 
leaves  and  long  pyramids  of  white  flowers.  The 
rosettes  sometimes  attain  nearly  a  foot  in 
diameter,  with  flower-stems  of  a  height  of 
.30  inches  or  more.  There  are  several  varieties, 
of  which  the  largest-growing  is  icelandica  ;  easy 
to  propagate  by  means  of  side  shoots,  which  are 
produced  in  profusion,  and  which  when  taken  off 
and  potted  up  soon  make  large  rosettes.  To 
attain  the  best  results  all  side  shoots  should  be 
removed  from  flowering  crowns. 

S.  Hottlii  is  a  free-growing  plant  with  strap- 
shaped  leaves  and  flowers  spotted  with  pink, 
which  are  more  conspicuous  in  the  variety 
macnabiana. 

S.  liniiulala  and  its  variety  lanloscaui  are 
beautiful  plants  and  among  the  choicest  of 
this  set,  the  latter  having  wreath-like  panicles 
of  pure  white  flowers. 

<S'.  lowjifolia.  —  This  Pyrenean  species  is 
probably  the  most  striking  member  of  this  group, 
either  as  a  large  silver-edged  rosette  of  leaves,  or 
when  the  stem  is  lengthened  out  into  its  pyramid 
of  beautiful  flowers.  Confined  entirely  to  the 
Pyrenees,  it  grows  in  the  crevices  of  perpen- 
dicular rooks,  sending  out  horizontally  its 
beautiful  cone-shaped  panicle  2  feet  or  more  in 
length.  After  attaimng  flowering  size,  which 
often  takes  several  years,  the  rosette  dies,  seldom 
producing  offsets.  Seeds,  however,  are  freely 
produced  ;  but  as  the  Saxifrages  all  cross  ver'- 
readily,  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  this 
occurring  by  placing  a  piece  of  gauze  over 
the  flower-spike  intended  for  seed.  Seeds 
3ho\ild  be  sown  in  gritty  soil  in  the  spring  in  a 
cold  frame.  The  seedlings  are  very  slow  -growing 
and  require  careful  attention  for  some  time. 

Smaller-growing  species  are :  S.  cajsia,  2  inches 
to  .S  inches  high  ;  S.  diapensioides,  with  dense 
cylindrical  rosettes  ;  and  S.  valdensis,  which  may 
be  described  as  a  miniature  S.  cochlearis. 

W.  Ikvinc. 


THE     FRUIT    GARDEN. 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

TREES  ON  WALLS.— There  is  one 
thing  that  amateurs  commonly  over- 
look in  the  management  of  fruit  trees 
on  walls,  and  that  is  the  imperative 
necessity  of  watering  heavily  and  fre- 
quently even  in  the  winter.  It  is  too 
often  assumed  that,  because  a  fair  amount  of  rain 
has  fallen  and  the  soil  in  the  middle  of  the 
garden  is  sufficiently  moist  as  a  consequence,  the 
same  condition  prevails  at  the  foot  of  the  walls. 
This,  however,  is  very  far  from  being  the  true 
fact  of  the  case.  Not  only  do  the  walls  throw 
off  a  certain  proportion  of  the  water,  but  the 
bricks  of  which  the  walls  are  constructed  suck  a 
very  considerable  amount  of  moisture  out  of  the 
ground,  so  that  it  is  always  drier  than  the  main 
part  of  the  garden.  Thus  it  becomes  necessary, 
if  we  are  to  maintain  our  wall  trees  in  a  perfectly 
satisfactory  condition,  to  give  water  in  large 
quantities  so  as  to  ensure  the  soil  always  being 
pleasantly  moist  about  the  roots.  Now  is  an 
excellent  time  to  attend  to  this  important  work. 
No  grower  should  be  satisfied  with  a  smaller 
soaking  than  three  gallons  to  the  square  yard  ; 
and  the  chances  are  that  if  he  increases  the 
quantity  to  five  gallons  over  the  same  area  he 
will  be  doing  still  more  good.  In  the  event  of 
suspicion  of  lack  of  food  in  the  soil,  the  watering 
should  be  supplemented  by  equally  heavy  appli- 
cations of  liquid  manure,  using  it  strong  on  old, 
partially  debditated  trees  and  weaker  on  those  in 
superior  condition.  Strong  stuff  must  not,  of 
course,  be  given  when  the  roots  have  become 
fully  active,  but  tlii.s  will  not  be  the  case  yet 
awhile. 


February  6,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


67 


Standard  Trees. — Standard  trees  growing  in 
gardens  or  in  orchards  frequently  suffer  very 
seriously  from  insufRoient  supplies  of  food,  and  it 
is  excellent  practice  to  follow  out  the  suggestions 
in  the  preceding  paragraph  in  connexion  with 
them.  First  of  all  loosen  the  surface  soil  to  a 
depth  of  2  inches  or  3  inches,  then  persistently 
soak  it  with  pure  water  until  it  is  certainly 
moistened  to  a  depth  of  .3  feet,  and  immediately 
afterwards  use  strong  or  weak  liquid  manure 
according  to  judgment.  When  the  grower  is 
satisfied  that  he  has  stocked  the  soil  with  readily 
available  food  for  the  trees,  he  should  put  on  the 
surface  a  dressing  of  short,  sweet  manure.  In 
doing  this  it  is  most  important  that  material  shall 
be  used  which  will  not  settle  down  into  a  close, 
pasty  mass,  as  this 
will  arrest  the  in- 
gress of  fresh  air, 
without  which  it  is 
impossible  for  the 
trees  to  feed  in  a 
regular  and  satisfac- 
tory manner. 

Strawberries. — 
'I'he  trimming  up  of 
plantations  of  this 
indispensable  fruit 
Hhould  be  pressed 
forward  with  all 
possible  despatch. 
They  will,  of  course, 
have  received  some 
attention  in  this 
direction  in  the 
autumn  ;  but  much 
work  will  now  have 
to  be  done  if  the 
results  are  to  be 
fully  satisfactory. 
The  beds  should  be 
cleansed  of  every 
vestige  of  weeds, 
dead  and  decaying 
leaves,  and  imme- 
diately afterwards 
the  surface  should 
be  carefully  loosened 
with  a  fork,  not 
working  it  in  too 
deeply,  or  serious 
injury  may  be  done 
to  the  roots.  As  soon 
as  this  is  finished  it 
is  sound  practice  to 
give  a  dressing  of 
sulphate  of  potash 
and  superphosphate 
of  lime  at  the  rate  of 
3oz.  to  the  square 
yard  ;  the  propor- 
tions should  be  three 
of  the  latter  to  two 
of  the  former,  and 
this  application  will 
do  an  immense 
amount  of  good  to 
the  plants  during 
the  early  part  of  the 

season  when  roots  are  active ;  or  it  is  permissible 
to  substitute  for  this  a  heavy  dressing  of  long, 
strawy  manure,  from  which  the  plants  twill 
gain  some  support  and  also  derive  benefit  from 
the  straw  after  it  has  been  washed  quite  clean 
by  rains. 

Raspberries. — The  cutting  and  cleaning  up 
among  the  Raspberries  should  be  pushed  on 
to  completion  with  all  possible  speed  now. 
Remove  all  sucker  growths  that  are  not 
required  for  the  formation  of  new  plantations, 
and  cut  away  the  unripe  tips  of  the  canes 
retained  for  fruiting  during  the  current  summer. 
Afterwards  lightly  fork  over  the  surface  and 
give  a  top-dressing  of  a  mixture  of  equal  parts 
of  short  manure  and  half-decayed  manure ;  the 
depth  of  this  should  be  about  3  inches,  lightly 
api  lied.  Fruit  (!Rowf:ii. 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 

ROSE   MRS.    MYLES    KENNEDY. 

NOT  only  exhibitors,  but  also  all  who 
love  a  beautiful  Rose  for  the  garden, 
will  welcome  this  superb  variety. 
It  is  not  one  of  those  sorts  that  can 
only  be  grown  by  the  exhibitor,  for 
it  possesses  vigour  and  a  constitution 
quite  equal  to  a  Viscountess  Folkestone,  and  as 
the  illustration,  taken  from  a  photograph  kindly 
sent  by  Messrs.  Merryweather  of  The  Nurseries, 
Southwell,  so  faithfully  depicts,  the  beauty  of 
form  and  general  contour  of  the  flower  leaves 
nothing  to  be  desired.     We  have  surely  sufficient 


Jules  (iravereaux  gained  this  award,  but  Mrs. 
Myles  Kennedy,  having  been  only  introduced  in 
1906,  was  not  sufficiently  known  by  those  who 
voted.  That  it  will  make  a  glorious  pot  Rose 
was  evidenced  by  the  specimens  exhibited  by 
Messrs.  Paul  and  Son  of  Cheshunt  at  the  last 
Temple  Show. 

In  the  special  audit  last  year,  which  Mr. 
Mawley  arranges  for  the  "Newer  Tea  Roses"  for 
exhibition,  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy  stands  third, 
the  names  being  given  as  follows  :  Souvenir  de 
Pierre  Notting,  eighty-three  votes ;  Mrae.  Con- 
stant Soupert,  seventy-seven  ;  Mrs.  Myles  Ken- 
nedy, sixty-eight ;  and  Mme.  .Jean  Dupuy, 
thirty-two.  All  these  Roses  should  be  added  to 
any  collection  not  already  in  possession  of  them, 
and  exhibitors  would 
do  well  to  grow 
several  plants  cf 
each  both  as  half- 
standards  and 
bushes,  especially 
those  who  make  Tea 
Roses  a  speciality. 
I  must  say  that  the 
border  line  between 
a  Tea  and  a  Hybrid 
Tea  is  exceedingly 
narrow  in  the  case 
of  Mrs.  Myles  Ken- 
nedy. We  seem  to 
require  some  tri 
bunal  to  determine 
this  point  before  the 
novelty  is  placed  on 
the  market.  Al- 
though it  may  not 
bo  a  matter  of  im- 
portance to  the  ordi- 
nary grower,  to  those 
who  exhibit  it  makes 
a  great  difference. 


FT.OWKR  OF  ROSE   MRS.  UYLES   KBNNEDY. 

of  the  "  flimsy "jRoseSj'although  their  colours  are 

so  entrancing,  but  if  we  can  obtain  novelties  that 

combine  quality  of  bloom  with  a  free-flowering 

and  stxirdy  growth,  such  Roses  must  command 

'  general  favour.    During  last  summer,  when  many 

!  days  were  exceedingly  trying  to  our  favourites, 

.  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy  seemed  to  defy  the  elements, 

I  which  proved  it  to  be  a  good  reliable  Rose  for  the 

I  exhibitor.      Its  colour  is  somewhat   difficult  to 

describe,   but   "delicate  silvery    white,   shaded 

buff  and   deeper    pink   centre "   is    the   raiser's 

(Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Son's)  description.     I 

need  hardly  say   this   Rose  received    the  gold 

medal  of  the  National  Rose  Society,  and  probably 

the  medal  has  never  been  awarded  to  a  variety 

more  richly  deserving  it.    Some  thought  it  should 

have  received  the  Niokerson  Cup  as  the  "best  Tea 

sent  out  since  HI02."     .^h  is  well  l^nown,  Mme. 


ROSE  CARMINE 
PILLAR  AS  A 
STANDARD. 

A       FULL   -    headed 

standard  of  this 
Rose  produces  a 
grand  effect  in  the 
garden,  especially 
when  there  is  a 
good  background  of 
dark  evergreeqs. 
Those  varieties 
which  custom  has 
looked  upon  as  only 
suitable  for  pillars, 
arches  and  pergolas 
make  magnificent 
objects  on  stems  if 
tended  with  cultural 
skill  and  well  iso- 
lated. I  have  seen 
such  Roses  placed 
in  a  bed  or  oorder 
with  varieties  of  the 
Hybrid  Tea  group, 
and^they  not  only  spoilt  the  effect  of  the  latter,  but 
were  themselves  quite  lost.  Let  them  have  plenty 
of  space,  then  they  are  objects  of  much  interest. 

There  are  several  other  sorts  suitable  for 
growing  in  standard  form.  One  especially  I 
might  name,  and  that  is  Waltham  Bride.  When 
its  long,  drooping  growths  are  covered  with  the 
fragrant  white  blooms  the  effect  is  delightful, 
and  this  Rose  would  associate  well  with  Carmine 
Pillar.  Another  beautiful  sort  is  Griiss  an 
Zabem  ;  in  fact,  many  of  the  multiflora  group 
could  be  used  in  this  way  to  great  advantage. 

It  seems  as  though  we  shall  soon  have  a  very 
varied  array  of  colouring  in  this  group.  In  Ne 
Plus  Ultra  we  have  a  sort  much  darker  than 
Crimson  Rambler,  and  now  there  has  appeared 
one  named  Veilchenbleau,  which  is  said  to  have 
blooms  of  a  bluish  shade  of  colour,  |', 


68 


THE    GARDEN. 


[February  6,  1909. 


GoiRT>ENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDKN.— Bulbs  that  were 
planted  in  good  time  are  now  showing 
well  through  the  soil,  and  where  the 
surface  of  the  latter  is  by  any  means 
caked,  much  good  will  be  done  by 
stirring  it  with  a  small  hoo  or  even  a 
bluntly-pointed  stick  ;  this  will  admit  air,  which 
is  of  the  greatest  benefit  to  the  plants.  Where  a 
top-dressing  of  manure  was  given  some  weeks 
ago  it  is  just  possible  that  a  few  lumps  or  cakes 
escaped  breaking,  and  these  are  "capable  of 
creating  much  mischief  in  the  way  of  deforming 
foliage  and  flowers  that  are  trying  to  push 
through  them,  hence  in  stirring  the  surface  a 
sharp  look-out  must  be  kept  for  such.  Beds 
which  are  to  be  planted  with  Carnations  must 
have  immediate  attention,  the  soil  must 
be  thoroughly  well  drained,  and  the  plants  will 
be  much  benefited  if  a  good  dressing  of  old 
mortar  rubble  can  be  addtd  to  the  soil,  applying 
a  barrow-load  to  each  syu.ire  rod  of  ground.  If 
the  soil  is  very  ]>  lor  a  little  perfectly-decayed 
manure  may  be  added,  but  it  is  better  to  select  a  bed 
that  was  well  manured  fur  a  crop  of  something 
else  last  year.  Well  dig  up  the  bed  and  leave  it 
in  a  rather  rough  condition  until  planting-time. 

Frames  — Bedding  plants,  such  as  Geraniums, 
Heliotrope.",  Mirgueritee  and  Coleuses  that  are 
i  I  warm  frames,  will  now  or  shortly  need  potting 
off,  that  is,  where  the  cubtiiigs  were  rooted  in 
buses.  If  they  vere  rooted  singly  in  ■2J,-iiich 
pots,  these  will  carry  them.-'along  for  several 
weeks  yet.  Use  foil  c^irnposed  of  two  parts  loam, 
one  part  deciycd  fliky  manme  and  a  good  dash 
of  coar.-'e  sancf.  Some  growers  prefer  to  pot  the 
rooted  cuttings  direct  into  oinch  pots,  in  which 
ihey  remain  until  planting-out-time  ;  and  where 
proper  attention  is  given  to  watering,  this  method 
answers  very  well.  For  the  beginner,  however, 
it  will  be  best  to  use  ^^-inch  puts,  placing  one 
voung  plant  in  each  ;  then,  when  these  have 
bdcome  tilled  with  roots,  the  pUnts  can  be  moved 
into  the  larger-sized  pots  ct^med  above.  By 
adopting  this  course  the  evils  consequent  on 
over-watering  are  considerably  lessened.  Plants 
in  cold  frames  will  daily  need  more  air,  and 
much  good  will  be  done  by  overhauling  the  pots, 
stirring  the  surface  soil,  examining  the  drainage 
holes  and  removing  any  dead  or  dying  foliage. 

Greenhoitse. — Tuberous  Begonias  may  now  be 
restarted  into  growth.     Where  they  have  been 


I. — HERE  IS  SHOWN  A  "  HEEL  ;  CUTTINGS 
WITH  THIS  ATTACHED  ROOT  MORE 
READILY  THAN  THOSE   WITHOUT   IT. 

retained  in  the  old  S(jil  all  the  winter,  shake  this 
quite  away.  After  this  I  prefer  to  place  the 
tubers  nearly  touching  each  other  in  a  box  of 
very  good  soil  made  up  of  loam  one  part,  peat 
one  part  and  flaky   leaf-soil  half  a  part,   with 


some  silver  sand  added,  or,  failing  this  mixture, 
Coooanut  fibre  refuse  may  be  used.  Just  leave 
the  tubers  with  the  tops  showing  through  the 
soil  or  fibre.  When  shoots  1  inch  or  rather  more 
have  been  made,  the  plants  can  be  transferred  to 
their  flowering  pots.      Treated  thus  the  tubers 


fix  one  up  himself  with  very  little  trouble.  A 
wooden  box  placed  on  the  hot-water  pipes  will 
answer  the  purpose  admirably.  It  should  be 
about  8  inches  deep  and  1  foot  wide  ;  the  length 
will  depend  on  the  number  to  be  inserted.  In  the 
bottom  of  the  box  place  3  inches  to  4  inches  of 


usually  break  into  growth  better  than  it  started  |  coarse  sand,  making  it  as  firm  as  possible,  and 
in  the  pots  with  ordinary  soil.  Tuberoses  may  i  then  give  it  a  good  soaking  with  water.  The 
be  potted  now.  Remove  all  side  eyes  or  buds  most  suitable  shoots  for  cuttings  are  the  side- 
and  pot  the  bulbs  so  that  about  half  an  inch  or  growths  on  the  stems  of  flowering  plants 
rather  more  of  each  remains  above  the  surface.  I  averaging  about  3  inches  in  length.  These  can 
Three  bulbs  in  a  (5-inch  pot  usually  do  well.  Do  generally  be  severed  from  the  parent  plant  by  a 
not  give  much  water  until  growth  is  evident.  '  gentle  downward  pull.  At  the  base  of  each 
Shake  out  old  Fuchsias,  prune  the  growths  hard  cutting  taken  off  in  this  way  will  be  found  a 
back  and  repot  them  in  the  same-sized  pots  if  i  small  portion  of  the  bark  or  skin  of  the  older 
possible,  plunging  the  latter  in  Cocoanut  fibre  j  stem,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  This  is  termed  a 
refuse  and  giving  the  tops  a  light  syringing '"  heel "  ;  cuttings  with  this  attached  root  more 
evening  until  growth  has  well  ,  readily  than  those  without  it.  The  only  pre- 
paration such  a  cutting  requires  is  to  remove 
two  or  three  of  the  bottom  leaves.  The  cuttings 
may  be  inserted  in  the  sand  with  a  blunt-pointed 
stick  about  the  size  of  a  pencil  1  h  inches  apart. 
Make  the  hole  only  of  sufficient  depth  so  that 


morning    and 
commenced. 


■  I  , 


The  Veqetahte  Oardcn. — The  present  is  a  good 
time  to  plant  Shallots,  which  should  be  placed  in 
rows  about  1  foot  apart,  leaving  a  distance  of 
iS  inches  between  each  two  bulbs  ; 
3  inches  is  a  good  depth  to  plant. 
Root  cuttings  of  Seakale  that  were 
made  in  the  autunm  may  now  be 
planted.  Where  the  resiiltant  plants 
are  to  be  forced  in  thei  open,  plant 
three  cuttings  in  a  triangle  each 
side  of  which  measures  1  foot ;  they 
can  then  all  be  forced  or  bleached 
with  one  pot  or  box.  The  clumps 
should  be  "2  feet  6  inches  apart 
Where,  however,  the  plants  will 
be  lifted  for  forcing,  the  cuttings 
may  be  planted  111  inches  apart  in 
rows  18  inches  asunder;  grown  thus 
the  most  is  made  of  space  and  the 
plants  are  easily  cleaned  in  the 
early  stages  of  their  growth.  Be 
careful  to  plant  the  cuttings  the 
right  way  up,  and  let  the  top  of 
each  be  just  level  with  the  surface 
of  the  soil.  Celery  seed  must  be 
sown  now  where  good  plants  are 
required.  Use  shallow,  well-drained 
boxes  of  sandy  soil  in  which  a  good  percentage  of 
leaf-mould  has  been  incorporated  and  make  it 
moderately  firm.  Scatter  the  seeds  thinly  and 
cover  very  lightly.  A  temperature  ranging  from 
50"  to  60°  will  effect  germination,  which,  how- 
ever, is  always  slow,  hence  the  grower  must 
exercise  patience.  H. 


THIS   SHOWS  THE 


CUTTINGS    IN 
EACH   POT. 


4-INCH    POTS— FOUR    IN 


PERPETUAL  -  FLOWERING  CARNATIONS 

AND  HOW  TO  GROW  THEM. 
The  introduction  of  one  or  two  varieties  of  these 
Carnations,  notably  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson,  from 
America  some  few  years  ago,  has  created  a 
remarkable  demand  for  this  lovely  flower. 
Their  value  for  decoration  in  rooms  and  for 
sprays  or  buttonholes,  especially  during  the  dull 
days  of  winter,  cannot  be  denied.  In  large 
gardens  it  is  possible  to  devote  houses  to  their 
cultivation,  when  their  wants  can  be  readily 
attended  to.  The  amateur,  however,  with  his 
one  small  greenhouse  can  usually  find  a  place  in 
this  where  he  can  grow  them  successfully.  What 
is  more  pleasing  to  the  city  man  than  to  go  into 
the  greenhouse  before  proceeding  to  business  and 
cut  a  Carnation  for  a  button-hole.  It  may  be 
less  trouble  to  purchase  a  flower  for  a  few  pence, 
but  there  is  infinitely  more  pleasure  in  wearing  a 
home-grown  one.  The  most  suitable  season  for 
Rootiny  the  Guitinys  is  from  .January  to  March. 
Most  professional  gardeners  have  a  propagating 
frame  already  to  hand  with  bottom-heat.  The 
amateur  not  possessing  such  a  luxury  can  soon 


the  base  of  the  cutting  rests  on  the  bottom  of  the 
hole.  Press  the  sand  firmly  round  each  cutting, 
water  well  when  all  the  cuttings  are  inserted 
and  cover  the  top  of  the  box  with  a  sheet  or 
sheets  of  glass.  In  such  a  position  the  cuttings 
will  root  in  from  three  weeks  to  a  month. 
During  this  period  it  will  be  necessary  to  water 
the  cuttings  several  times,  as  the  heat  from  the 
pipes  will  dry  up  the  sand.  If  possible,  the 
glass  should  be  removed  for  an  hour  each 
morning  and  wiped,  but  the  amateur  cannot 
always  find  time  to  do  this.  An  alternative 
method  to  rooting  the  cuttings  in  a  bed  of  sand 
is  to  fill  4-inch  pots  with  sand  and  place  four 
cuttings  round  the  sides  of  these,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  2.  The  pots  are  then  plunged  in  fibre  in  a 
bo.x  on  the  pipes  or  in  a  propagating  frame  with 
bottom-heat.  Some  growers  root  their  cuttings 
in  soil,  but  we  find  it  much  simpler  and  quicker 
to  use  sand  A  cutting  in  sand  will  make  as 
many  roots  in  three  or  four  weeks  as  a  cutting  in 
soil  will  do  in  six  weeks.  One  important  point  to 
always  bear  in  mind  is  to  pot  off'  cuttings  struck 
in  sand  as  soon  as  rooted,  or  they  will  receive  a 
check  ;  cuttings  in  soil  will  not  suffer  if  potting 
cannot  be  done  for  a  few  days. 

Polling  the  Rooted  Cuttinys.  —  When  first 
potting  it  will  be  better  to  keep  the  plants  close 
for  a  few  days,  after  which  they  may  be  placed 
on  the  lightest  shelf  close  to  the  roof-glass  in  the 
house.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants  are  well 
established  and  growing  freely,  the  growing  point 
should  be  taken  out.     This  will  induce  the  plant 


February  6,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


m 


soil ;  but  heat  and  moisture  com- 
bined induce  rapid  germination  and, 
consequently,  a  high  percentage. 
I  will  give  a  simple  illustration. 
If  the  seeds  of  Dwarf  Beans  or  Sun- 
flowers are  sown  in  a  wet  soil  which 
is  afterwards  kept  in  a  saturated 
condition  and  at  a  very  low  tem- 
perature, they  will  most  likely  all 
decay,  at  any  rate  most  of  them 
will  ;  but  if  the  seeds  be  sown  in 
a  moderately  moist  compost,  the 
latter  kept  uniformly  moist  and  not 
beyond  the  medium  condition  and 
the  temperature  maintained  at  about 
summer  heat,  they  will  quickly 
germinate. 

The  Proper  Depth  to  Sow. — Then 
there  is  the  question  of  depth  and, 
coupled  with  it,  character  of  soil. 
If  very  small  seeds — Mignonette, 
for  example — be  buried  1  inch  deep, 
few  seedlings  would  appear.  The 
seeds  would  germinate,  no  doubt, 
but  the  very  tender  shoots  would 
to  make  a  number  of  growths  and  form  a  bushy  t  soon  perish,  not  being  able  to  penetrate  the  thick 


-A      BUSHV     PLANT     SHOWING     THE     CUTTING     AND 
NUMBER  OF  GROWTHS   ON  THE  OLDER  SPECIMEN. 


specimen  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  .3.  When  these 
side  growths  are  pushing  freely  the  plant  will 
require  a  shift  into  a  larger  size  pot.  At  this 
period  the  plants  may  be  accommodated  in  the 
garden  frame,  where  they  may  remain  for  the 
summer.  During  fine  weather  in  .July  and  August 
the  plants  will  benefit  by  having  the  lights 
entirely  removed.  About  the  end  of  August 
or  early  in  September  it  will  be  necessary  to  place 
them  in  the  greenhouse.  By  this  time  some  of  the 
earliest  plants  will  in  all  probability  be  pushing 
up  flowering  shoots.  The  lightest  and  sunniest 
position  in  the  house  should  be  selected  for 
Carnations.  A  suitable  temperature  is  4.")°  to 
50°  at  night,  rising  to  .55°  by  day,  except  during 
severe  weather.  Avoid  keeping  the  house  too 
moist  and  do  not  overwater  the  plants,  but  when 
dry  give  them  a  good  watering.  Each  shoot 
should  only  be  allowed  to  produce  one  flower, 
the  central  bud  being  left  and  all  the  side  ones 
removed  as  soon  as  large  enough.  As  the  flowers 
are  cut  or  they  fade  on  the  plant,  the  stems 
should  be  out  down  to  within  4  inches  to  6  inches 
of  the  base.  The  plant  will  then  produce  a 
number  of  sturdy  shoots  (Fig.  4)  and  keep  up  a 
succession  of  flowers  practically  throughout  the 
summer.  A  useful  selection  of  twelve  varieties 
for  an  amateur  to  commence  with  is  :  Enchantress, 
flesh  pink  ;  Fair  Maid,  rose  pink  ;  Britannia, 
crimson  scarlet ;  Mrs.  H.  Burnett,  salmon  pink  ; 
Lady  Bountiful,  white ;  White  Perfection ; 
Harlowarden,  crimson  ;  Mrs.  M.  A.  Patten, 
white,  marked  bright  pink  ;  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson, 
cerise  pink ;  Nelson  Fisher,  bright  cerise ; 
Winsor,  silvery  pink  ;  and  .Jessica,  white,  pen- 
cilled scarlet. 


THE  GERMINATION   OF  SEEDS. 

The  season  is  rapidly  coming  when  seed-sowing 
will  form  a  very  important  item  of  the  weekly 
work  in  the  garden.  Sound  seeds,  of  course, 
will  germinate  in  certain  adverse  circumstances 
where  older  seeds  would  entirely  fail ;  but  the 
very  best  seeds  will  prove  unsatisfactory  if 
wrongly  treated,  and  many  instances  are  known 
where  seedsmen  have  been  blamed  for  sending 
out  bad  seeds,  when  the  sole  cause  of  failure  was 
really  bad  treatment  of  good  seeds.  No  one 
wishes  to  fail  to  procure  a  good  crop  of  seedlings 
after  having  sown  the  seeds,  as  valuable  time  is 
lost  in  such  cases,  as  well  as  money  in  having  to 
purchase  a  fresh  supply. 

How  to  Sow  Seeds. — I  am  here  referring  to 
seeds  which  are  sown  in  pots,  pans  or  boxes  in 
glass  houses  or  frames,  where  it  is  quite  possible 
to  make  ideal  conditions  for  the  raising  of  seed- 
lings. Heat  and  moisture  are  two  absolutely 
necessary  essentials  to  success.  Excessive  mois- 
ture without  a  certain  temperature  will  at  this 
season  cause  many  kinds  of  seeds  to  rot  in  the 


erust  of  soil.  Now,  this  depth  of  1  inch  would 
just  suit  a  seed  the  size  of  that  of  the  Dwarf 
Bean,  but  the  ideal  depth  for  the  Mignonette 
seed  is  rather  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch. 
Here  we  must  also  take  into  consideration  the 
character  of  the  soil.  In  boxes  or  pots  under 
the  cover  of  glass,  the  depth  should  be  rather 
less  than  in  the  open  border  later  in  the  season, 
for  this  reason  :  that  the  soil  indoors  is,  as  a  rule, 
finer  and  closer  fitting,  thus  conserving  moisture 
better  than  in  the  case  of  the  open  border,  where 
the  soil  is  more  open  or  coarser.  Then  there  are 
seeds  which  resemble  dust.  These  should  be 
sown  on  the  flat,  firm  surface  of  the  soil,  and  not 
buried  at  all.  Begonia,  Gloxinia,  Gesnera  and 
similar  seeds  are  dust-like,  and  must  be  sown  on 
the  surface.  To  ensure  success,  and  this  means  a 
high  percentage  of  germination,  the  surface  on 
which  the  seeds  are  sown  must  be  properly  pre- 
pared. After  draining  a  pot  or  pan  and  more 
than  three-parts  filling  it  with  compost,  some 
coarse  silver  sand  should  be  scattered  thinly 
on  it.  Then  apply  water,  and  after  it  has 
drained  off  sow  the  seeds,  cover  the  pot  with  a 
loose  square  of  glass  and,  finally,  brown  paper 
until  the  seeds  have  germinated.  The  coarse 
grains  of  sand  retain  moisture  round  and  beneath 
them  for  a  long  time,  and  this  conduces  to  germi- 
nation of  the  seeds  more  surely  than  a  dry  soil 
surface.  A\on. 


HOW    TO    TREAT    SEEDLINGS    RAISED 

UNDER  GLASS. 
DuRiNfi  the  early  months  of  the  year  the  raising 
of  numerous  plants  from  seeds  is  one  of  the 
most  important  tasks  the  gardener  has  to  per- 
form. Everyone  who  has  experience  will  know 
that  although  the  seeds  may  germinate  most 
satisfactorily,  a  large  percentage  of  the  tender 
seedlings  will  quickly  die  or  fail  to  make  good 
plants  if  subjected  to  the  slightest  neglect  at  the 
critical  period.  Thin  sowing  is  advisable  in  all 
cases,  and  perhaps  this  matter  receives  more 
attention  now  than  formerly  ;  but,  still,  many 
young  seedlings  are  much  weakened  by  being 
too  crowded  in  the  seed  pots  or  pans.  The 
crowded  state  of  the  plants  is  often  the  cause  of 
large  losses  through  damping  ofi^,  especially 
when  the  watering  is  not  most  carefully  done. 
The  fungi  which  cause  this  disease  are  so 
minute  that  they  cannot  be  discerned  with  the 
naked  eye,  and  the  first  indication  of  their 
presence  is  the  wilting  and  collapse  of  the 
seedlings  that  are  attacked. 

The  careful  watering  of  seedlings  is  most 
important,  and  soft  water  should  always  be 
used  where  obtainable.  Avoid  chilling  the 
plants  with  cold  water,  but  use  it  when  at  the 
same  temperature  as  the  atmosphere  of  the  house 
in  which  the  plants  are  growing.     Much  water 


is  not  required,  but  be  sure  that  the  soil  is  not 
allowed  to  become  too  dry.  Seedlings  cannot 
draw  nutriment  from  a  dust-dry  soil  and  must 
quickly  perish  if  this  state  of  things  is  allowed 
to  exist.  In  most  cases  plants  raised  in  propa- 
gating cases  should  be  removed  as  soon  as 
germination  takes  place,  otherwise  a  weak, 
attenuated  growth  is  produced  and  the  plants  are 
ruined.  A  few  hours'  neglect  in  this  matter  may 
mean  a  total  failure.  Pots  or  pans  of  seed  which 
are  covered  with  glass,  paper,  moss  or  any  other 
material  must  be  frequently  examined,  and  as 
soon  as  the  young  plants  make  their  appearance 
remove  the  covering ;  it  is  better  to  err  by 
removing  this  too  soon. 

The  majority  of  young  plants  need  a  light 
position,  and  shelves  are  very  useful  for  their 
accommodation.  A  sudden  change  of  temperature 
tor  the  most  tender  seedlings  must  be  carefully 
avoided  as  much  as  possible.  Plants  of  hardier 
subjects  raised  in  heat,  and  eventually  intended 
for  the  embellishment  of  the  greenhouse  or  the 
flower  garden,  must  be  gradually  "hardened  off.'' 
This  process  must  be  carefully  accomplished,  as 
extremes  of  temperature  are  detrimental  to 
sturdy  growth.  Plants  raised  in  strong  heat 
should  first  be  removed  to  a  structure  where  a 
temperature  several  degrees  lower  is  maintained 
before  placing  them  in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  frame. 
Fortunately,  many  beautiful  flowers  may  be  raised 
without  the  aid  of  very  strong  heat,  a  cool  green- 
house or  even  a  frame  being  all  that  is  required. 

As  soon  as  the  seedlings  can  be  handled, 
pricking  out  must  be  done.  Prepare  light,  sandy 
soil  for  this  purpose  and  do  not  press  this  too 
firmly,  when  the  soil  is  in  a  good  condition, 
neither  too  wet  nor  too  dry,  moderate  pressure 
with  the  fingers  being  all  that  is  necessary. 
Remember  that  plants  pricked  out  round  the 
outside  of  the  pots  or  pans  will  root  quicker  and 
more  freely  than  those  in  the  centre,  and  for  this 
reason,  where  space  permits,  many  of  the  most 
choice  seedlings  are  often  pricked  out  round 
the  outside  of  41 -inch  pots,  the  centre  being 
left.  This  plan  also  has  other  advantages,  viz., 
the  plants  are  easily  removed  without  the  risk  of 
damage  being  done  to  their  roots,  and  again, 
the  space  left  admits  a  means  of  water  being 
applied  without  damping  the  foliage,  and  allows 
plenty  of  room  for  sturdy  development.  Strong, 
healthy  seedlings  are  not  difiieult  to  grow  into 
most  excellent  specimen  plants ;  but,  on  the 
other  hand,  weak,  sickly  seedlings  can  never 
really  produce  satisfactory  results,  therefore 
every  effort  should  be  made  to  secure  the  best 
results  by  the  most  careful  treatment  from  the 
time  of  sowing  the  seeds.  C.  Ruse. 


4. — HERE  IS  A  PLANT  FULL  OF  STURDY  SHOOTS  ; 
FLOWERS  WILL  APPEAR  PRACTICALLY 
THROUGH   THE   SUMMER. 


ro 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Februaky  6,  1909. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 

Lawns  ani>  Grass  EncfiNOS.  —  It  is  really 
astonishing  how  quickly  a  neatly-swept  lawn 
becomes  untidy  again,  and  where  a  large  portion 
of  the  garden  is  devoted  to  grass  the  cleanliness  of 
its  surface  is  a  matter  of  great  importance.  But 
there  are  certain  times  when  it  is  not  advisable 
to  do  any  sweeping,  namely,  while  frosts  prevail 
and  during  very  wet  weather.  In  the  first 
instance  the  blades  of  grass  would  be  much 
bruised,  for  most  of  the  foreign  matter  which 
one  wishes  to  sweep  up  will  be  frozen  hard  to 
the  ground.  In  wet  weather  sweeping  may  be 
done  if  there  is  great  necessity  for  it,  but  the 
grass  is  smeared  with  soil  and  afterwards  presents 
a  dull,  untidy  appearance.  Choose  a  calm  day 
when  the  grass  is  dry,  then  all  leaves  and  bits  of 
wood  will  be  loose  and  easily  removed.  Worm- 
oasts  are  then  also  dry,  and  the  besom  will  scatter 
them  before  it.  Directly  after  the  sweeping  is 
done  roll  the  lawn,  as  the  operation  will  do  good 
though  the  surface  be  dry.  Grass  verges  should 
be  treated  just  the  same  as  the  broader  expanse 
of  lawn ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  cut  the 
former,  as  the  great  amount  of  rolling  they 
receive  and  the  walking  to  and  fro  on  them 
during  the  season  press  out  the  edges  unduly. 
This  work  should  be  deferred  until  all  danger 
of  severe  frosts  is  past.  If  One  cuts  the  edges 
now  (as  I  know  many  amateurs  are  tempted  to 
do),  the  soil  will  crumble  away  again  owing  to 
the  action  of  the  frosts  upon  them,  and  the  lack 
of  a  firm,  smooth  face  to  the  verges  makes  the 
use  of  the  grass  shears  a  difficult  matter  in  the 
summer-time. 

Spring  -  flowering  Plants.  —  Time  passes 
very  quickly — especially  does  it  seem  to  pass 
quickly  to  those  people  who  are  fully  occupied — 
and  we  are  now,  once  more,  almost  within  view 
of  the  spring  flowers.  Everything  should  be 
done  to  make  the  latter  look  as  beautiful  as 
possible  when  they  develop ;  the  foliage  and 
stems  must  be  kept  in  a  healthy  condition,  the 
surface  of  the  border  soil  neat  and  clean,  and 
frosts  excluded.  Cocoanut  fibre,  if  not  already 
put  on,  should  now  be  placed  neatly  in  a  layer 
rather  more  than  1  inch  deep  all  over  the  surface. 
First,  however,  remove  any  weeds,  pulling  them 
up  by  hand,  as  it  is  dangerous  to  use  the  garden 
hoe  where  bulbs  are  planted.  If  the  weather  is 
sufficiently  mild  and  we  find  that  some  of  the 
spring  -  flowering  plants,  such  as  Wallflowers, 
Aubrietias,  Polyanthuses,  Primroses,  Daisies  and 
Myosotie.  have  died,  they  may  now  be  replaced 
by  others  from  the  nursery  beds  if  there  is  a 
stock  of  reserve  plants  ;  otherwise  we  must  wait 
until  the  month  of  April  and  purchase  plants 
commencing  to  blossom  or  buy  them  at  once. 
Plants  put  in  before  the  flower-buds  show  always 
give  more  satisfaction  than  those  that  are  lifted 
and  replanted  while  in  bloom.  But  it  is  a  fact 
that  very  many  owners  of  town  gardens  prefer 
to  buy  their  spring-flowering  plants  late  in  the 
season  when  the  latter  are  flowering.  Of  course, 
they  obtain  a  fairly  good  show  of  blossom  after 
the  plants  have  ps-rtially  recovered  from  the 
severe  check  given  them,  but  the  display  is 
mostly  a  very  limited  one.  I  would  like  to 
impress  upon  all  owners  of  town  gardens  the 
greater  advantage  of  buying  or  lifting  and  trans- 
planting home-grown  plants  early— in  the  autumn 
tor  preference,  or  in  mild  weather  in  winter  if 
autumn  planting  cannot  be  carried  out. 

Posts  for  Climbing  Plants. — The  present  is 
a  very  suitable  time  for  erecting  new  posts  and 
replacing  old  ones  where  the  latter  have  decayed 
below  the  soil  level.  In  the  latter  case  we  can 
unfasten  the  branches  and  retie  them  again  to 
their  new  supports  much  easier  now,  while  the 
growth  is  arrested,  than  later  on  when  new 
shoots  and  leaves  are  growing.  It  is  while  the 
branches  are  laden  with  foliage  that  strong 
winds  have  most  pressure  upon  the  plants,  hence 
readers  will  be  acting  wisely  if  they  carefully 
examine  all  old  p^sts.  Avon. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE   SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower   Garden. 

HERBACEOUS  P.EONIES.  —  These 
should  be  given  a  good  position,  and 
the  soil,  some  time  previous  to 
setting  out  the  plants,  must  be 
deeply  trenched,  with  plenty  of 
well -decayed  manure  incorporated 
with  it  as  the  work  proceeds.  With  good 
treatment  the  plants  soon  develop,  and  are  much 
admired  when  either  by  themselves  in  large  beds 
or  in  the  mixed  borders.  There  are  many 
striking  colours,  and  some  of  the  varieties  are 
sweetly  scented.  These  and  many  other  plants 
are  best  planted  early  in  autumn,  but  if  obtained 
from  the  nurseries  in  pots,  they  may  be  put  out 
at  almost  any  time. 

Old  Walts  and  i^e»tce«.— Many  plants  may  be 
planted  by  the  side  of  old  walls,  &c. ,  and  in  a  few 
seasons  they  will  cover  them  entirely  with  foliage 
and  flowers.  Some  of  the  wiohuraiana  Roses — 
namely,  Alberic  Barbier,  Gardenia,  Paul  Transon, 
Dorothy  Perkins,  Evergreen  Gem,  &c. — are  well 
adapted  for  this  work.  Ampelopsis  Veitchii, 
Honeysuckles,  Clematises  montana  and  Vitalba, 
&c..  Wistarias  and  Jasmines  are  also  very 
suitable. 

Evergreens. — These  may  be  pruned  back  if 
desirable,  using  a  knife  for  the  work.  Do  not  cut 
them  too  hard,  but  shorten  the  overhanging 
pieces  to  look  as  natural  as  possible.  Laurels 
which  have  got  long  and  bare  at  the  bottoms  may 
be  cut  down  to  within  6  inches  of  the  ground-level. 
These  quickly  make  a  fresh  and  healthy  growth 
with  ample  foliage. 

The  Fruit  Garden. 

Peach  and  Nectarines. — Where  a  good  amount 
of  wall  space  is  devoted  to  Peaches  and  Nec- 
tarines, the  annual  pruning  and  training  may  now 
be  taken  in  hand.  Those  trees  which  may  have 
been  well  attended  to  during  last  summer  with 
regard  to  disbudding  and  the  removal  of  young 
shoots  not  required  will  need  very  little 
thinning  at  this  season.  In  cases  where  the  trees 
have  been  neglected,  the  whole  of  the  branches 
should  be  taken  from  the  walls,  thoroughly 
cleansed  and  then  replaced  at  suitable  angles. 
Having  put  the  main  branches  in  position,  fill  in 
with  the  young  fruitful  shoots.  Those  of  medium 
growth,  well  matured,  usually  bear  the  most  and 
best  fruit.  Do  not  overcrowd  with  useless  wood, 
but  allow  ample  space  for  the  development  of 
foliage  and  new  growth  for  the  following  year's 
fruit.  Syringe  the  trees  with  soapsuds  at  a 
reasonable  strength,  with  a  little  flowers  of 
sulphur  added.  Young  newly-plinted  trees  may 
be  left  alone  for  some  time  yet,  to  allow  of  the 
soil  settling.  Peaches  thrive  well  in  a  well- 
drained  border,  consisting  of  sweet  loam,  old 
mortar,  wood  ashes,  bone  meal  and  manure, 
should  the  soil  be  short  of  fibre.  Good  varieties 
will  be  found  in  the  following,  and  ripen  in 
rotation,  or  nearly  so  :  Waterloo,  Hale's  Early, 
Early  Grosse  Mignonne,  Dymond,  Bellegarde, 
Violette  Hative,  Crimson  Galande,  Marquis  of 
Downshire,  Sea  Eagle  and  Princess  of  Wales. 
The  last-named  should  be  given  a  good  position, 
otherwise,  being  late  to  ripen,  the  flavour  is 
wanting. 

Vegetable  Garden. 

Cabbages. — When  the  soil  is  sufficiently  dry  run 
the  hoe  between  the  rows,  for  it  is  important  to 
keep  the  surface  sweet  and  open.  Our  young  Cab- 
bage plants  have  stood  the  frost  well ,  but  other 
vegetables  have  suflfered  greatly.  As  the  days 
lengthen  another  good  planting  should  be  made 
from  the  plants  raised  in  August ;  these  will  form 
a  capital  succession  to  the  more  forward  plants. 
Should  there  be  likely  to  be  a  scarcity  of  autumn 


plants  make  a  sowing  in  heat  and  treat  them  like 
the  Cauliflower  EUam's  Early,  or  some  other  quick 
hearting  variety.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Plant  Houses. 
Potting  Ferns. — As  soon  as  Ferns  show  signs 
of  renewed  activity,  and  before  the  embryo  fronds 
unfurl  to  an  appreciable  extent,  any  severe  root 
disturbance  deemed  necessary  should  be  carried 
out.  The  numerous  varieties  of  the  Adiantum 
family  are  probably  the  most  largely  cultivated 
of  any,  and  as  these  develop  quickly  after  a  few 
weeks' rest,  they  should,  accordingly,  be  the  first 
to  receive  attention.  A  proportion  of  the  older 
stock  should  be  discarded  annually  and  the 
vacancy  thus  created  filled  by  young  healthy 
plants,  which  may  be  seedlings  raised  and  potted 
during  the  previous  summer,  or  old  plants  broken 
up  and  a  selection  of  the  more  vigorous  pieces 
retained  for  this  purpose.  A  compost  having  as 
its  base  good  fibrous  loam  is  very  suitable  for  the 
generality  of  Ferns,  and  may  have  added  to  it, 
according  to  its  richness  and  texture,  such  in- 
gredients as  peat,  leaf-mould,  and  sand.  Peat  is 
more  conducive  to  growth,  but  loam,  as  the  prin- 
cipal, gives  deeper  colour  and  more  substance  to 
the  fronds,  an  item  of  much  importance  if  these 
are  required  for  cutting.  Clean,  well-drained 
pots  of  the  smallest  size  compatible  with  the 
well-doing  of  the  plants  are  best,  and  are  more 
convenient  for  these  largely  decorative  subjects. 
In  potting  make  the  soil  firm,  and  leave  at  least 
an  inch  of  space  inside  the  rim  of  the  pot  for 
adequate  supplies  of  water. 

Lycopodiuma.  —  These  require  very  similar 
treatment,  but  being  mainly  surface-rooting  and 
needing  plentiful  supplies  of  water  when  in 
growth,  may  with  advantage  have  the  pots  or 
pans  half  filled  with  crocks  and  the  crown  of  the 
plant  kept  somewhat  higher  than  in  the  case  of 
Ferns.  A  moist  atmosphere  rather  than  much 
water  at  the  roots  should  be  afforded  for  a  few 
weeks,  or  until  the  latter  get  hold  of  the  new 
soil. 

Propagating  Stove  Plants.  — Crotons,  Dracaenas 
and  many  other  fine-foliaged  subjects  are  easily 
increased  at  this  season  by  cuttings  where  a 
strong,  steady  heat  is  at  command.  I'ailing  this, 
any  plants  that  have  become  bare-stemmed  may 
have  a  ring  of  bark  removed  immediately  below 
the  crown  of  foliage,  and  to  ensure  the  emission 
of  roots  have  a  handful  of  moss  and  soil  bound 
tightly  around,  or  a  slit  made  in  the  stem  with 
a  sharp  knife  is  equally  good  ;  but  care  should  be 
taken  that  the  tongue  thus  made  is  kept  open  by 
the  insertion  of  a  strand  of  matting  or  a  little 
moss  before  applying  the  ligature. 

Corms  and  Tubers.  —  Gloxinias,  Achimenes, 
Caladiums  and  other  bulbous  plants  which  for 
some  time  have  been  relegated  to  the  back- 
ground, or  probably  under  the  stages  them- 
selves, should  be  examined  from  time  to  time, 
and  any  that  show  evidences  of  growth  be  placed 
in  a  light  position  and  have  several  slight 
applications  of  water  for  the  purpose  of  refresh- 
ing the  somewhat  withered  lorms  before  being 
repotted.  Among  deciduous  stove  climbers  few 
surpass  in  effectiveness  the  Gloriosas,  G.  superba 
being  the  best  of  a  comparatively  small  genus. 
Having  been  kept  dry  for  some  time,  the  tubers 
may  now  be  removed  from  the  exhausted  soil 
and  the  pots  cleaned  or  changed  and  a  rich  com- 
post used  for  repotting.  The  new  soil  will  con- 
tain sufficient  moisture  to  induce  growth,  as 
until  this  and  root-action  are  both  active  water 
must  be  very  sparingly  applied. 

Fruit  Department. 

Figs. — The  earliest  crop  is  usually  obtained 

from  trees  in  pots,  which,  if  started  in  November, 

will    now    be    swelling  fruit    freely.      As    the 

foliage  develops  and  the  shoots  extend,  any  of 


February  6,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


71 


the  latter  that  are  disposed  to  take  an  undue  lead 
may  be  stopped.  The  main  point  for  some  time 
to  come  is  to  guard  against  any  check  being  given 
the  trees,  such  as  sudden  changes  of  temperature 
or  a  chill  to  the  roots  through  using  cold  water, 
which  is  often  the  cause  of  the  fruits  being  pre- 
maturely cast  from  the  trees.  Established  trees, 
from  which  two  crops  of  fruit  are  expected  in 
the  current  year,  should  now  be  started  into 
growth,  previously  moistening  the  borders  in 
every  part. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Digging  and  Trenching. — The  changeable,  but 
generally  moist,  atmospheric  conditions  for  some 
time  past  have  delayed  the  progress  of  this  work 
considerably,  and  rather  than  turn  over  the  soil 
when  wet,  more  especially  after  snow  or  frost, 
it  would  be  better  to  employ  the  labour  in 
burning  rubbish,  turning  manure  and  heaps  of 
refuse,  repairing  and  gravelling  walks,  or  putting 
those  of  grass  in  order,  and  leave  soil  intended 
for  crops  unworked  until  more  favourable  con- 
ditions prevail.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Oalloway  House,  Garlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


A   DOUBLB-FLOWEBED   CtCLAMES. 

I  have  enclosed  a  Cyclamen  bloom,  the  like  of 
which,  in  my  long  experience  in  gardening,  I  have 
never  seen  before.  I  think  j-ou  will  agree  with  me, 
if  it  were  set  up  as  a  button-hole  few  would  hardly 
know  it  from  a  crimson  Rose-bud.  If  we  could 
get  a  fixed  type  like  this  I  think  it  would  be  a 
great  acquisition.  The  seed  was  obtained  from 
Messrs.  Toogood  and  Sons  as  Toogood's  Butterfly. 
I  might  say  the  plant  has  only  thrown  two 
blooms  like  this,  the  other  flowers  being  single 
but  very  fimbriated. — W.  Homphrev,  The  Holt 
Gardens,  Warlingham,  Surrey. 

[An  exceedingly  good  specimen  of  a  double- 
flowered  Cyclamen  of  the  fringed  type.  Of  the 
numbers  that  come  under  our  notice  we  never 
remember  a  more  striking  flower  of  this  class. 
As  our  correspondent  states,  if  it  was  mounted 
as  a  button-hole  one  might  readily  take  it  for  a 
crimson  Rose-bud.  The  fact  that  only  two 
blooms  like  this  have  been  borne  by  the  plant 
shows  that  it  is  more  or  less  of  an  accident. 
Still,  if  it  is  possible  to  get  seeds  from  the 
flowers  that  show  this  new  departure,  it  might 
be  possible  to  lay  the  foundation  of  quite  a 
distinct  race. — Ed.] 


THE     GREENHOUSE. 

FOETUNA-A   NEW    PERPETUAL- 
FLOWERING    CARNATION. 
A  NYONE  who   is  looking  out  for  a  good 
/\  novelty  would,  I  think,  do  well  to 

/  \        giv6     the    new     Fortuna     a    trial. 

/  \  Raised  by  Mr.  H.  Burnett  in 
£  J^  Guernsey,  it  was  first  offered  to 
the  public  at  the  Perpetual-flower- 
ing Carnation  Show  last  December.  In  form 
and  size  it  reminds  one  of  Fair  Maid,  but  the 
new-comer  is  a  beautiful  buff,  with  an  unmistak- 
able flush  of  flesh  colour,  rich  and  deep  in  tone 
in  the  heart  of  the  flower,  and  then  gradually 
passing  away  as  the  petals  open  out,  until  at 
their  margin  it  seems  to  have  gone.  It  at  once 
suggested  to  me  the  healthy  glow  of  some  dark- 
skinned  beauty,  just  as  a  new  lemon  yellow 
seedling,  which  will  be  brought  out  next  autumn, 
appeared  to  be  the  floral  equivalent  of  the  colder 
beauty  of  a  fair-skinned  blonde.  I  was  told  it 
lit  up  well,  and  accordingly  I  took  some  flowers 
of  both  kinds  home  and  tried  them  under  arti- 
ficial light.  When  my  hostess  saw  them  in  a 
little  vase  on  the  dining-table,  she  said,  "  Oh, 
that  is  white ! "  pointing  to  the  yellow,  and  so  it 


looked.  Fortuna,  however,  was  still  a  very 
distinct  buff,  a  little  piler,  perhaps  a  little  more 
refined,  but  still  unmistakably  buff.  It  showed 
up  well  on  the  white  cloth.  A  bunch  in  a  lady's 
dress,  fixed  up  with  an  appropriate  green,  would 
be  beautiful  and,  I  think  I  may  say,  would 
"  go  with  anything."  The  plant  has  a  good  con- 
stitution and  is  a  free  and  perpetual  bloomer. 
The  flower-stems  are  long  and  stiff  and  the 
calyx  does  not  burst.  In  size  it  is  on  the  small 
side  like  Governor  Roosevelt  or  Fair  Maid,  but 
this  is  no  detriment ;  on  the  contrary,  to  many 
and  for  many  purposes  it  will  be  a  recommenda- 
tion. Joseph  Jacob. 


THE     VALUE     OF     LEAF 
PROPAGATION. 


"^  HE  careful  gardener  should  always  be 
at  some  pains  to  acquaint  himself 
with  the  best  ways  of  increasing  his 
stock.  It  is  fortunate  that,  in  a 
general  sense,  almost  any  part  of  the 
plant  is  capable  of  starting  growth 
on  its  own  account  if  the  conditions  are 
favourable.     This  characteristic  can  be  turned  to 


T 


they  should  not  touch  one  another.  For  the  first 
few  days  place  the  pan  in  a  shady  position,  and 
after  this  the  leaves  will  do  best  if  they  can  be 
fairly  near  to  the  glass.  In  the  event  of  very 
scorching  weather,  even  should  the  house  be 
shaded,  it  is  well  to  shelter  the  leaves  under  a 
piece  of  paper  during  the  brightest  hours  of  the 
day  ;  in  fact,  everything  possible  should  be  done 
to  prevent  flagging  at  any  time.  In  a  few 
weeks  the  leaves  will  become  stiff  and  upright, 
and  it  will  not  be  long  before  other  small 
leaves  will  push  their  way  up  from  the  base 
of  the  stalk.  Quite  soon  each  leaf  that  has 
come  through  will  have  developed  into  a  sturdy 
little  plant  ready  for  removing  to  more  roomy 
quarters. 

In  the  case  of  the  Gloxinias,  a  still  more 
prolific  mode  of  increase  is  by  leaf  propagation. 
To  accomplish  this,  choose  large,  well-grown 
leaves  from  old  plants.  Turn  the  leaf  upside 
down,  and  with  a  sharp  penknife  cut  notches  at 
frequent  intervals  in  the  thick  ribs.  The  central 
vein  on  account  of  its  size  will  carry  the  most, 
and  they  should  be  cut  out  deeply.  Fill  a  pan 
with  the  same  kind  of  soil  as  mentioned  above, 
and,  after  well  moistening  the  surface  with 
water,  spread  the  leaves  on  the  top  of  the  mould 


PROPAGATION    BY  THE   LEAF — AN   IltTBRESTING   METHOD   OF  INCREASE. 


very  good  account  by  the  horticulturist  in  the 
case  of  Gloxinias,  the  evergreen  Begonias  and 
Streptocarpi.  In  the  case  of  all  these  plants, 
their  propagation  may  be  carried  out  with  the 
greatest  ease,  simply  by  rooting  the  leaves  of 
the  different  kinds.  To  this  end,  mature,  well- 
developed  leaves  should  be  selected  in  the  early 
summer,  care  being  taken  to  see  that  each  has 
a  good  piece  of  stalk  attached.  These  should  be 
spread  out  separately  on  a  tray  in  a  cool,  dark 
place  for  twenty -four  hours,  an  effort  being  made 
to  keep  the  various  kinds  distinct.  Now  obtain 
some  boxes  or  pans  about  2  inches  or  3  inches  in 
depth,  and  fill  these  with  some  light  sandy  soil, 
the  poorer  the  material  the  better.  If  the  mould 
is  very  dry  it  should  be  watered  through  a  fine 
rose. 

The  following  day  the  leaves  of  the  different 
plants  may  be  taken,  and  each  one  dibbled  out 
into  the  box  or  pan.  The  stalk  should  be 
embedded  to  the  extent  of  about  an  inch.  The 
leaves  may  be  put  fairly  close  together,  although 


back-side  downwards.  In  order  to  make  certain 
that  the  leaf  is  in  contact  with  the  soil  all  over, 
it  is  necessary  to  pin  it  down  at  intervals.  For 
this  purpose  the  best  things  to  use  are  ordinary 
hairpins.  Shelter  the  leaves  from  hot  sun  and 
pay  careful  attention  to  watering,  as  the  soil 
round  the  leaves  must  be  kept  constantly 
moist.  The  leaves  may  be  left  in  this  way  for 
practically  the  whole  of  the  summer,  and  it  is 
inadvisable  to  attempt  to  remove  them  in  any 
circumstances. 

It  is  probable  that  by  the  autumn  signs  of 
active  growth  will  be  apparent  from  some  of  the 
notches.  In  any  ease,  when  the  leaf  is  finally 
taken  up  it  will  be  found  that  at  eve?y  point 
where  an  incision  was  made  a  little  corm  has  put 
in  an  appearance,  and  these  may  be  grown  on  to 
flowering  plants  during  the  next  season.  Quite 
often  a  fine  corm  will  form  on  the  stalk  end  of 
the  leaf  which  is  pinned,  as  will  be  seen  to  have 
been  the  case  in  the  specimen  shown  in  the 
above  illustration.  S.  Leonard  Bastin. 


72 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Februaky  6,  1909. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  An^ioers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions shmtld  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W,C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHER. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Tulips  without  POOtS  (■/.  £.).— We 
have  carefully  examined  your  Proserpine  Tulip 
bulbs  and  also  the  soil.  In  neither  can  we  find 
anything  in  the  way  of  animal  life  to  account  for 
the  state  of  the  sample.  We  note  you  ask  us  to 
help  you  "  to  find  out  the  cause  of  them  not 
rooting."  As  the  soil  is  full  of  roots,  it  is  clear 
that  they  have  rooted  pretty  well,  and  what  has 
happened  is  that  something  has  been  done  to  the 
pots  or  boxes  which  has  caused  the  roots  im- 
mediately under  the  bulb  to  decay.  There 
is  a  fair  quantity  of  rather  sour  peat  (is  it  peat 
moss  litter  from  tlie  stable  ?)  in  the  compost,  and 
what  we  would  suggest  is  that  the  soil  has  got  too 
wet  at  the  top,  and  continued  in  that  state  long 
enough  to  rot  part  of  the  roots,  and  so  to  give  the 
appearance  of  the  bulbs  never  having  made  any. 
It  may  be.  too,  that  some  stimulant  has  been 
applied  which  has  not  suited  the  Tulips,  or  that 
there  was  something  in  the  peat  which  was 
deleterious,  and  which  only  took  effect  when 
water  was  given  prior  to  bringing  the  bulbs  into 
heat. 

Planting    hardy    flowep   bopdep 

{Old  Reader). — A  flower  border  100  feet  long  and 
12  feet  wide  should  easily  be  made  to  look  gay 
all  the  summer  and  autumn.  If  not  done,  first 
the  ground  should  be  well  manured  and  trenched 
2  feet  in  depth,  or,  failing  the  trenching,  be 
deeply  dug.  To  do  this  well  everything  in  it 
should  be  lifted  out  first.  But  as  you  have  fruit 
trees  on  the  wall  behind,  the  alley  fronting  those 
trees  should  be  fully  3  feet  wide,  and  any  hardy 
flowers  should  be  at  least  fully  4  feet  from  the 
trees.  The  background  might  well  consist  of 
such  hardy  plants  as  perennial  Sunflowers,  tall 
Michaelmas  Daisies,  Hollyhocks,  Columbines, 
tall  giant  Daisies,  Sweet  Peas  in  clumps  ; 
Convolvulus  major,  Mina  lobata,  Canary 
Creeper  and  similar  climbing  annuals  ;  with  here 
and  there  decorative  and  Cactus  Dahlias.  Near 
the  front  should  come  blue  Thistles,  Erigerons, 
Pseonies,  giant  Poppies,  Irises,  Rudbeckia  New- 
manii,  giant  Daisy  Princess  Henry,  dwarf er 
forms  of  Michaelmas  Daisies,  various  Cam- 
panulas, especially  persicifolia,  the  biennial  Can- 
terbury Bells,  also  Foxgloves,  Sweet  Williams, 
Snapdragons,  Pentstemons,  with,  still  facing 
these,  a  myriad  of  annuals,  both  hardy  and 
tender,  the  former  being  sown  in  small  rings  or 
clumps  thinly  and  back  or  front,  according  to 
height.  The  beauty  of  these  and  their  time  of 
endurance  in  flower  rests  largely  with  the  quality 
of  the  soil  and  the  plants  being  well  thinned. 
Eschscholtzias,  Candytufts,  Clarkias  and 
Godetias,  all  in  great  variety,  with  literally 
myriads  of  others,  dwarf  and  tall,  costing  little 
for  seed,  can  be  had  and  sown,  not  only  early  in 
April,  but  for  succession  also  a  month  later. 
Then,  if  sown  in  shallow  pans  or  boxes  under  glass 
about  the  middle  of  April,  numerous  plants  of 
Stocks,  Asters,  Zinnias,  Salpiglossis,  Petunias, 
Verbenas  and  Lobelias  can  soon  be  had  which  will 
remain  long  in  flower.  In  this  way  a  very 
brilliant  border  should  be  readily  obtained. 


Violas  in  beds  (Beginner)  — Novembar- 
planted  Violas  should  be  in  the  first  flush  of 
beauty  during  May,  June  and  July,  and  in  a 
lesser  degree  subsequently,  though  it  will  depend 
upon  the  varieties,  the  treatment  meted  out  to 
them  and  the  class  of  soil  in  which  they  are 
growing.  Where  it  is  desired  to  have  a  late 
summer  and  autumn  display  of  these,  as  well  as 
a  spring  and  early  summer  one,  two  plantings 
should  be  made,  one  in  autumn  and  another  in 
spring  (early  April).  If  you  cannot  do  this,  the 
next  best  thing  will  be  to  cut  the  plants  over  at 
the  end  of  July,  or  later,  if  there  is  evidence  of 
the  flowering  being  continued  for  some  time, 
mulch  the  plants  around  with  rich  soil,  and  by 
keeping  them  well  watered  promote  a  new  growth 
quickly  to  ensure  a  late  summer  and  autumn 
flowering.  Frequently,  where  the  soil  is  not  too 
much  drained  or  very  light  or  sandy,  this  second 
flowering  is  fully  equal  to  the  first. 

Infopmation    about    Scabiouses 

{Mrs.  B.). — There  is  no  reference  to  Scabiouses 
in  the  issue  of  The  Garden  to  which  you  refer, 
but  the  best  of  the  annual  Scabiouses  for  garden 
purposes  are  the  varieties  of  Scabiosa  atropur- 
purea,  which  may  be  sown  in  March  or  early 
April  for  autumn  bloom.  These  are  exceedingly 
valuable  for  the  garden  and  also  for  cutting,  and 
it  is  probably  these  which  you  have  had  in  mind. 
Of  the  perennial  varieties,  Scabiosa  caucasica  is 
the  most  frequently  cultivated,  but  it  does  not 
flower  so  well  in  some  gardens  as  the  newer 
S.  japonioa.  Both  have  pretty  lilac  flowers,  and 
there  is  also  a  white  variety  of  S.  caucasica  called 
alba.  These  are  the  best  of  the  Scabiouses,  but 
for  general  garden  use  there  is  none  to  equal  the 
annual  S.  atropurpurea,  mentioned  above,  and 
called  the  Sweet  Scabious.  It  can  be  had  from  any 
seedsman  in  much  variety  of  colour. 

BOPdePS  fOP  annuals  [Beginner).— 
We  think  you  cannot  do  better  than  plant  pink- 
flowered  Pentstemons,  with  yellow  Tufted 
Pansies  or  Violas  in  the  one  border  and  crimson- 
flowered  Antirrhinums  and  yellow  or  white 
Violas  in  the  other  ;  or,  as  the  borders  are  so 
narrow  and  so  much  in  sight,  you  might  get  the 
best  results  by  planting  two  shades  of  Violas  in 
each  case.  The  former  could  be  raised  from 
seeds ;  the  latter  you  could  obtain  cheaply  as 
rooted  cuttings.  Among  the  more  efiective  of 
low-growing  annuals  for  massing,  we  would  name 
Godetias,  Chrysanthemum  ooronarium  in  variety, 
Eschscholtzias,  Marigolds,  Mignonette,  Indian 
Pinks,  Nasturtiums  and  Nemophila.  You 
could  also  utilise  the  Calceolarias  in  conjunction 
with  Godetias  and  the  dwarf  strains  of  Antir- 
rhinums, all  of  which  ar*  singularly  free- 
flowering.  In  the  damp  border  facing  north  you 
cannot  do  better  than  plant  Phloxes  in  variety, 
Michaelmas  Daisies,  Sunflowers,  Chrysanthemum 
uliginosum,  F.rigeron  speciosum,  Globe  Thistles, 
Red-hot  Pokers,  Flag  Irises  in  great  variety, 
Globe  Flowers  (TroUius),  Montbretias  and  Cam- 
panulas. For  the  first  season  you  might  with 
advantage  introduce  a  few  of  the  taller-growing 
annuals,  such  as  Lupines,  Shirley  Poppies,  Calli- 
opsis,  Chinese  Aster,  Rocket  Larkspur  and  others. 

Six  Chpysanthemums  virlth  lap^e  blooms 
fop  eaply  Octobep  displays  (taiitaiiAsj.— Kath- 
leen Thempson  and  Caprice  du  Printempa— the  former  a 
sport  from  the  latter — are  verj'  excellent  varieties,  from 
which  you  should  get  good  deep  flowers  some  5  incbes  to 
6  inches  in  diameter  under  good  cultivation.  We  can 
confidently  recommend  the  following  six  varieties  for 
your  purpose :  Mile.  Lucie  Duveau,  purest  white  ; 
Murillo,  light  flesh  pink  ;  Le  Pactole,  bronzy  red  and 
yellow ;  Perle  Chatillonaise,  creamy  white,  shaded  rosy 
peach ;  Market  Red,  metallic  red ;  and  Golden  Queen  of 
the  Earlies,  rich  golden  yellow.  You  do  not  say  whether 
you  want  the  varieties  for  decoration  or  for  exhibition  ; 
we  have,  therefore,  regarded  them  from  the  former  point 
of  view. 


of  the  Oleander  leaves  is  the  deposit  of  insects, 
and  in  all  probability  there  are  aphides  or  green 
fly  on  your  plants  as  well.  To  clean  the  Oleander 
make  a  lather  of  warm  water  and  soft  .soap  and 
carefully  sponge  the  leaves,  both  the  upper  and 
lower  surfaces,  taking  care  to  remove  every  scale, 
these  being  mostly  clustered  on  either  side  of  the 
midrib.  The  Fuchsia  leaves  are  in  a  terrible 
state  with  thrips,  and  your  better  way  will  be  to 
pick  off  every  leaf  and  burn  it.  If  this  is  done 
new  leaves  will  soon  be  pushed  forth  free  of 
insect  pests.  Too  dry  an  atmosphere,  especially 
if  the  roots  are  dry  as  well,  is  the  cause  of  thrips 
attacking  a  plant.  An  occasional  vaporising  with 
the  XL  All  Vaporiser  will  keep  the  plants  free 
from  these  pests. 

Tulips  not  flow^eplng  well  (H.  IT.).— There  is 
nothing  whatever  wrong  with  the  plants.  All  five  are 
flowering  bulbs  and  have  made  good  roots.  The  leaves 
are  perhaps  rather  small  and  they  may  have  been  forced 
just  a  little  too  much ;  that  is  all. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Moss    on     stems    of    standard 

Roses  (ATHateur). — Anything  of  a  parasitic 
nature  on  the  stems  of  the  standard  Roses  is  not 
conducive  to  the  welfare  of  the  trees,  and  should 
certainly  be  removed.  Make  a  solution  of 
carbolic  soap  liquid  by  steeping  half  a  bar  of 
Lifebuoy  Soap  in  three  gallons  of  soft  water. 
Take  a  scrubbing-brush,  dip  it  into  the 
liquid  and  scrub  the  stems  vigorously,  but  not 
so  as  to  injure  the  bark.  You  can  repeat  this 
again  in  about  a  week.  A  strong  brine  is  used 
when  fruit  trees  become  infested  with  moss,  but 
we  rather  hesitate  to  recommend  this  on  the 
somewhat  delijate  bark  of  the  Briar. 

Manupe  foP  Roses  (Sinclair).  —  Poultry  and 
pigeon  manure  may  be  applied  in  light  dressings  for 
Roses,  but  it  is  not  so  safe  to  use  as  well-rotted  stable 
manure.  When  used  it  should  be  sown  thinly  on 
the  ground,  lightly  forked  in  and  well  watered.  .Stable 
manure,  of  course,  is  valuable  both  on  account  of  its 
fertilising  qualities  and  for  a  mulch.  Poultry  manure  is 
of  no  use  for  the  latter  purpose,  and  for  feeding  it  should 
not  be  used  frequently;  a  couple  of  dressings  in  the 
course  of  the  year  will,  however,  do  no  harm. 


THE  GREENHOUSE. 
Oleandep  and  othep  leaves  fop 
inspection  {A.  M.  C). — The  leaves  are  badly 
infested  with  thrips,  while  the  Oleander  in 
addition  has  a  quantity  of  scale  on  the  under- 
sides.    The  black  substance  on  the  upper  surface 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Muscat    Vines    grone    wpongr 

(N.  0.  P). — We  have  seldom  seen  Vine  foliage 
80  badly  infested  with  red  spider,  and  so  long  as 
this  pest  is  allowed  to  feed  on  the  life  tissues  of 
the  Vine,  so  long  will  the  crop  prove  a  failure. 
The  first  thing  to  do  in  order  to  bring  back  the 
Vines  to  health  and  fruitfulness  will  be  to 
destroy  the  spider.  The  way  to  do  this  is  to 
prune  the  Vines,  immediately  burning  all  the 
prunings  and  leaves.  Then  fumigate  on  two 
calm  afternoons  in  succession  with  a  strong 
solution  of  Richards's  XL  All  Fumigator.  These 
two  applications,  if  the  vinery  is  properly  closed 
up  so  that  the  fumes  cannot  escape,  will  kill  the 
spider.  Then  wash  the  vinery  in  every  part 
with  soft  soap  and  water,  being  careful  to  brush 
into  every  hole  and  comer  likely  to  afford  protec- 
tion to  the  insects,  finishing  by  whitewashing 
the  walls  with  hot  lime-wash.  Then  rub  ofi'  the 
rough  outer  bark  of  the  Vine  rods,  and  wash  them 
with  the  same  solution  of  soft  soap  as  recom- 
mended for  washing  the  vinery,  adding,  however, 
half  a  pint  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  which  should  be 
dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  the  liquid.  After  this 
dig  up  carefully  with  a  fork  3  inches  of  the 
surface  soil  of  the  border  (presuming  it  is  inside) 
and  wheel  it  away,  replacing  to  a  depth  of 
4  inches  with  a  top-dressing  of  loamy  soil  to 
which  has  been  added  a  gallon  of  bone-meal  to 
every  barrow-load  of  soil.  The  Vine  will  emit 
new  roots  into  this  in  the  course  of  the  spring 
and  summer,  resulting  in  a  much  more 
vigorous  and  healthy  growth.  The  red  spider 
will  be  sure  to  appear  again  early  in  the  year. 
Be  on  the  watch  for  the  least  trace  of  it,  and 
nip  it  in  the  bud  by  spraying  the  affected  leaves 
with  soft  soap  and  warm  water,  continuing  to 
do  so  as  long  as  traces  of  its  appearance  are 
apparent. 


^fe»^ 


GARDEN. 


-^^- 


No.   1943.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


P'ebruaky  13,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


Sweet     Peas    for 
Garden  Decoration     73 

Prizes  for  Readers  .     . .     74 

Notes  op  the  Wbbk 

c  irrkbpondbnoe 
A    note  about  Sweet 

Peas 

Perpetual  -  flowerlDg 

Carnations       ..     .. 

The    classification    of 

perpetual  -  flowering 


70 


Sweet    Pea     Queen     of 
Spain     

Kitchen  Garden 
The  new  culinary  Pea 
Kearguard       . .     . . 

National    Sweet    Pea 

Society's    outings 

1908 

Fruit  Garden 

The     destruction     of 
insect  pests  on  fruit 

trees 76 

Sweet  Pea  chat      . .     . .    77 
Sweet  Peas   in    a   poor 

sandy  soil 78 

Growing    Cupid    Sweet 

Peas  in  barrels   . .     . .    78 


80 


Coloured  Plate 
Three  popular  Sweet 

Peas 78 

Sweet    Pea    cross-ferti- 
lising reminiscences       79 
Gathering    Sweet    Peas 

for  exhibition     . .     . .    79 

Gardening  for  Beoinners 

Garden  work  week  by 

week 

Pruning    Red    and 

White  Currants     ..    80 
The   proper   distance 
apart    to     sow    or 
plant  vegetables    . .     SI 
The  Town  Garden    . .    si 
Gardening  op  the  Week 
For  the    South    and 

South  Midlands     . .     82 

For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands     . .    82 

Sweet  Pea  aims      . .     . .    82 

Sweet   Peas   and    their 

decorative  uses  . .     . .    83 

Editor's  Table 83 

Answers     to     Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden    . .     . .    83 

Greenhouse 84 

Trees  and  shrubs      . .    84 
Fruit  garden       ..     ..    84 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Sweet  Pea  Queen  of  Spain     75 

Inspecting  the  crops  at  Messrs.  Hurst  and  Sons'  . ,     . .    76 

Members  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society 77 

Sweet  Peas  growing  in  an  old  barrel    ...  ....     78 

Three  popular  Sweet  Peas     Coloured  plate 

Gathering  Sweet  Peas  for  exhibition 79 

Pruning  Red  and  White  Currants      80,  81 

EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  Tnatters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  froni 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  columns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  communications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  a/nd  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  eTiclosed,  he  unll  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  ovmer  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  vrill  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  ivse, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  -proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
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will  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  «0,  Tavistock  Street,  C&oen^  Ga/rden,  W.C 


SWEET  PEAS  FOR  GARDEN 
DECORATION. 

Methods    of    Growihg. 
{First  Prize  Essay.) 
A  MONO  all  the  beautiful  annuals  there  are 
/  \  none  that,  in  the  hands  of  a  careful 

/     \        and  intelligent  gardener,  give  greater 

/  \  satisfaction  or  make  a  more  beautiful 
and  varied  decoration  for  the  garden 
than  Sweet  Peas.  They  may  be  grown  in  various 
ways,  and  often  used  to  cover  unsightly  objects, 
such  as  dead  trees,  &o.,  in  clumps  of  separate 
varieties,  on  hurdles  covered  with  2-inoh  wire- 
netting,  and  in  rows  of  separate  or  mixed 
varieties,  according  to  the  taste  of  the  cultivator, 
and  in  each  or  all  of  these  ways  how  beautiful 
they  are  and  what  a  wealth  of  bloom  and  a 
delicious  scent  they  give. 

As  a  background  to  a  herbaceous  border, 
nothing  could  be  more  suitable  than  clumps  or 
rows  of  this  beautiful  annual.  To  make  a  really 
good  effect  great  care  must  be  taken  in  the 
arrangement  of  colours,  both  in  their  proximity 
to  each  other  and  also  to  other  plants  ;  one 
mistake  so  often  makes  a  whole  failure.  A  careful 
gardener  will  always  plan  out  his  colours  on 
paper  before  planting,  and  so  make  quite  certain 
of  no  clashing  to  ofifend  the  sensitive  eye. 

Some  people  grow  them  actually  in  the 
herbaceous  borders,  dotted  about  in  clumps  ;  but 
this  method  is  one  which  I  do  not  advocate,  as 
their  height  is  so  much  out  of  proportion  to  that 
of  the  ordinary  herbaceous  plants,  the  difficulty 
of  arrangement  of  colour  is  greatly  magnified, 
and  last,  but  by  no  means  least,  to  keep  them 
in  flower  one  must  be  constantly  treading  on  the 
border  in  all  weathers  to  feed  and  cut  ofif  dead 
blooms,  which  is  fatal  to  the  surrounding 
herbaceous  plants  and  also  makes  the  border 
untidy. 

As  a  covering  for  dead  bushes  or  trees  nothing 
oan  excel  them,  not  even  Koses,  and  those  who 
have  not  seen  an  old  dead  tree  quite  untrimmed 
(a  Holly  for  preference)  covered  with  a  rambling 
mass  of  Dorothy  Eckford  (white)  and  Queen 
Alexandra  (scarlet)  can  have  no  idea  of  what  a 
beautiful  sight  it  is.  When  they  are  once  started 
on  an  old  tree  like  this  they  appear  to  revel  in 
their  liberty  and  ramble  away,  giving  a  wonder- 
ful display  of  colour  and  beauty. 

Against  a  wall,  with  Hazel  sticks  (untrimmed) 
to  support  them,  they  look  well,  especially  if 
there  is  a  border  of  choice,  dwarf-growing 
shrubs  immediately  in  front  of  them.  If  on  a 
south  wall  they  will  bloom  some  weeks  earlier 
than  those  in  the  open  ground  ;  but  eare  must  be 
taken  not  to  grow  any  of  the  high-ooloured 
varieties,  such  as  the  scarlets,  orange  or  deep 


pinks,  in  this  aspect,  as  they  would  be  scorched 
by  the  sun  and  lose  their  colour. 

A  summer  arbour  covered  with  several 
varieties  of  Sweet  Peas  always  makes  a  fine 
display,  but  care  must  be  taken  to  select  colours 
which  do  not  clash.  Etta  Dyke  (white),  Helen 
Lewis  (orange),  Clara  Curtis  (primrose),  Frank 
Dolby  (lavender)  and  Mrs.  Hardeastle  Sykes 
(light  pink)  would  make  a  good  effective  com- 
bination, each  variety  being  sown  or  planted  by 
itself,  no  intermixing  until  they  have  naturally 
grown  into  each  other  towards  the  top  of  the 
arbour.  Before  sowing  or  planting  the  arbour 
must  be  covered  with  some  large-meshed  wire- 
netting  for  the  tendrils  to  cling  to ;  but  this  is 
little  trouble  or  cost  as  compared  with  the 
result  obtained. 

Grown  in  10-inch  pots  or  tubs  and  placed  on 
paths  or  terraces  is  an  efiFeotive  way  of  employing 
Sweet  Peas,  especially  if  each  pot  or  tub  con- 
tains only  one  variety  ;  four  plants  in  each  are 
quite  sufficient.  This  mode  of  culture  requires 
great  care.  The  soil  must  on  no  account  ever  be 
allowed  to  get  dry,  no  seed-pods  must  be  allowed 
to  form  and  the  plants  will  require  a  liberal 
supply  of  strong  liquid  manure  from  the  time 
they  commence  to  bloom. 

Like  all  plants,  Sweet  Peas  repay  good  culti- 
vation. To  have  fine  blooms  it  is  essential  to 
keep  the  plants  growing,  and  this  can  only  be 
done  by  constant  attention  during  the  summer 
with  the  water-can,  the  "soup  tureen"  (liquid 
manure)  and  the  Dutch  hoe.  If  these  matters 
are  attended  to  it  is  wonderful  what  a  height  the 
plants  will  grow.  I  have  had  them  14  feet 
high  in  my  garden.  I  am  only  an  amateur,  and 
that  in  quite  a  small  way,  employing  a  jobbing 
gardener  one  day  in  the  week  to  help  in  the 
rougher  work. 

The  Cupid  or  dwarf  varieties  are  often  used 
for  edgings  to  borders  of  annuals  and  also  for 
summer  bedding  ;  but  to  my  mind  they  are 
poor  things  at  the  best  of  times,  and  I  have 
never  yet  seen  them  used  with  good  effect. 

As  this  must  be  confined  to  the  growing  of 
Sweet  Peas  for  garden  decoration,  I  fear  a  long 
explanation  of  the  mode  of  culture  may  be  con- 
sidered rather  wide  of  the  mark,  so  I  will  only 
suggest  a  few  of  what  I  consider  to  be  the  most 
important  rules  for  a  successful  cultivator  to 
observe.  1.  Sow  in  February,  either  in  pots 
(for  cold  frames)  or  out  of  doors.  2.  Never 
allow  the  soil  to  get  dry.  3.  Prepare  the  ground 
the  plants  are  to  occupy  early  in  the  previous 
autumn.  4.  Do  not  give  any  stimulant  until  the 
plants  have  given  their  first  bloom.  5.  Never 
allow  a  seed-pod  to  form.  6.  Be  careful  to 
watch  for  slugs  at  night.  7.  Avoid  all  patent 
manures.     8.  Feed  liberally  with  liquid  manure 


74 


THE    GAliDEN. 


I  February  13,  1909. 


when  the  first  bloom  is  over.  9.  In  hot  weather 
syringe  overhead  with  rain  water  ;  this  is  more 
beneficial  to  the  plants  than  any  amount  of  water 
at  the  roots. 

The  number  of  varieties  being  now  so  large, 
and  many  varieties  so  much  alike  that  none  but 
an  expert  can  distinguish  between  them,  makes 
it  no  easy  matter  to  pick  and  choose ;  but 
I  shall  in  my  list  mention  only  those  varieties 
which  I  consider  most  suitable  for  giving  the 
best  effect  from  a  decorative  point  of  view. 
White.  —  Etta  Dyke  (Spencer)  and  Dorothy 
Eckford.  Scarlet. — Queen  Alexandra  and  King 
Edward  VII.  Lavender. — Frank  Dolby  and 
Lady  Grizel  Hamilton.  Violet. — A.  J.  Cook 
(Spencer).  Primrose. — Clara  Curtis  and  Dora 
Breadmore.  Pink. — Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes  and 
Countess  Spencer.  Orange. — Helen  Lewis  and 
Henry  Eckford  (?).  Blush.— Mrs.  Henry  Bell 
and  Evelyn  Hemus.  Maroon.  — Prince  of  Asturias 
and  Dudley  Lees. 

Queen  Alexandra  and  Etta  Dyke,  Dorothy 
Eckford  and  Lady  Grizel  Hamilton,  Frank 
Dolby  and  Clara  Curtis  or  A.  J.  Cook  and  Etta 
Dyke  make  very  good  and  effective  combina- 
tions. Helen  Lewis,  Queen  Alexandra,  King 
Edward  VII.  and  Henry  Eckford,  especially  the 
latter,  require  to  be  grown  in  partial  shade  to 
obtain  the  true  colour. 

In  planting  out  be  sure  and  allow  ample  space 
between  each  individual  plant  or  pot  of  plants  as 
the  case  may  be — 9  inches  is  not  too  much  between 
each  plant,  and  15  inches  to  18  inches  between 
each  pot.  More  ill- health  is  caused  by  over- 
crowding than  by  anything  else. 

Thomas    Aldersey. 

Meole  Brace,  Shrewtbury. 


NOTES  OF    THE  WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

•^*  The  dates  given  beloio  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 
February  23. — Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Plants,  &e.,  1  p.m.  to 
6  p.m.  Lecture  at  three  o'clock,  by  Mr.  Arthur 
W.  Sutton,  V.  M.  H. ,  on  "  A  Camping  Tour  through 
Syria  to  Petra."  Royal  Horticultural  Hall, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 


JANUARY    COMPFTITION.— AWARDS. 

In  this  competition  prizes  were  offered  for  the 
best  essays  on  "  The  Best  Methods  of  Growing 
Sweet  Peas  for  Garden  Decoration. "  The  prizes 
are  awarded  as  follows  : 

First  prize  of  four  guineas  to  Mr.  Thomas 
Aldersey,  Meole  Brace,  Shrewsbury. 

Second  prize  of  two  guineas  to  Mr.  W. 
Bentley;  Field  End,  Eastcote,  Middlesex. 

Third  prize  of  one  guinea  to  Mr.  Thomas 
Stevenson,  Woburn  Place  Gardens,  Addlestone. 

Fourth  prize  of  half-a-guinea  to  Mr.  H.  L. 
Sell,  Kempton  Villa,  Luton. 

The  essays  from  the  following  are  highly  com- 
mended as  being  of  a  suggestive  character  :  C. 
W.  Caulfield,  W.  MeDermott,  D.  Watson, 
Edwin  Piatt,  G.  W.  Simmonds,  Miss  Carleton 
Williams,  W.  H.  Morton,  T.  H.  Bolton.  W.  H. 
Bolton,  Mrs.  Coates,  E.  Key,  E.  Henderson,  H. 
Whitner,  W.  Bond,  J.  S.  Dakers,  G.  Boyd,  W. 
Latter,  C.  H.  Chipman,  Miss  S.  Randolph,  W. 
Stewart,  J.  Gilchrist,  A.  J.  Cobb  and  Mrs.  .J. 
H.  Hooker. 

This  competition  was  an  exceedingly  popular 
one,  and  we  have  never  before  received  so  many 
essays.  In  the  majority,  however,  the  principal 
object,  i.e.,  original  methods  of  growing  Sweet 
Peas  for  garden  decoration,  was  entirely 
ignored.  Many  gave  most  elaborate  cultural 
details  which  were  not  asked  for.  The  lists  of 
varieties  chosen  were  also  poor  in  many  instances, 
and  in  compiling  these  it  would  seem  that 
essayists  quite  forgot  that  they  were  for  garden 
decoration.  Thus  in  one  essay  that  was  other- 
wise fairly  good  the  variety  Henry  Eckford  was 
considered  by  the  writer  to  be  the  best  variety 
for  the  purpose  !  Menie  Christie,  again,  was 
selected  by  several  to  use  in  conjunction  with 
other  colours ;  but  a  more  difficult  variety 
to  harmonise  with  others  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  select.  The  second-prize  essay  is  very 
close  to  the  first,  and  we  hope  to  publish  it 
shortly. 


Royal  Hopticultupal  Society   in 

1908. — The  annual  report  of  the  above  society 
is,  as  usual,  of  considerable  interest  to  all  lovers 
of  the  garden.  It  is  pleasant  to  note  that  the 
finances  of  the  society  are  in  a  most  satisfactory 
condition,  the  investments  now  having  reached 
the  sum  of  £33,986.  The  income  during  the 
year  was  £7,868  more  than  the  expenditure,  and 
the  letting  of  the  hall  gave  a  clear  profit  of 
£2,067  15s.  7d.  Those  who  have  other  thoughts 
than  of  flower  shows  will  regret  that  only  £29 
was  expended  during  the  whole  year  on  the 
Lindley  Library,  a  library  that  ought  to  be  the 
most  up-to-date  in  respect  to  horticultural  works 
in  the  world.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  council 
will  realise  this  a  most  important  matter.  Nearly 
1 1 ,000  Fellows  and  friends  visited  the  Society's 
gardens  at  Wisley  during  the  year,  notwith- 
standing the  fact  that  they  are  not  very  easy  of 
access,  and  this,  we  think,  speaks  well  for 
horticulture  in  general. 

National   Auricula    Society.— Mr. 

R.  Holding,  the  secretary  and  treasurer  of  the 
Midland  section  of  the  above  society,  informs  us 
that  the  date  of  their  show  has  been  altered  to 
April  28  and  29,  when  it  will  be  held  in  the 
Botanical  Gardens,  Edgbaston. 

Liverpool     Horticultural 

Association.— The  annual  meeting  of  this 
association  was  held  on  the  31st  ult.  at  the  Com- 
mon Hall,  Hackins  Hey,  when  Mr.  T.  Foster 
presided  over  a  fair  attendance.  The  statement  of 
accounts  proved  highly  satisfactory,  the  increase 
during  the  year  being  £117  17s.  7d.  The 
receipts  at  the  autumn  show  were  £135  143. ,  of 
which  £110  Is.  was  for  admission.  Subscriptions 
received  amounted  to  £2.50  ISs.  6d.,  a  decrease 
of  about  £20.  It  was  decided  after  some 
discussion  not  to  hold  a  spring  show  ;  but  the 
committee  would  consider  the  desirability  of 
holding  an  exhibition  in  which  cut  Roses  and 
Sweet  Peas  would  be  the  main  features.  Mr. 
Harold  Sadler,  31,  North  .John  Street,  Liverpool, 
was  re-elected  secretary. 

The  Veitch  Memorial  Trust.- At 

a  recent  meeting  of  the  Veitch  Memorial  Trustees 
it  was  decided  to  offer  gold  medals  to  the  Rev. 
W.  Wilks,  secretary  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  and  Mr.  W.  Marshall,  chairman  of  the 
floral  committee,  for  their  valuable  services 
rendered  to  horticulture.  The  following  prizes 
of  a  medal  and  £5  each  were  also  offered  :  To  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  at  their  Temple 
Show  for  the  best  group  of  Orchids  not  exceeding 
75  feet,  staged  by  an  amateur  who  has  never 
taken  a  medal  at  either  the  Temple  or  Holland 
House  Flower  Shows  ;  to  the  Cardiff  and  County 
Horticultural  Society  for  the  best  amateur 
exhibit  of  twelve  distinct  varieties  of  hardy- 
flowering  shrubs  (out) ;  and  to  the  National 
Rose  Society  for  competition  at  their  exhibition 
in  July  next.  At  the  same  meeting,  Mr.  J. 
Douglas  of  Great  Bookham  was  elected  a 
trustee  in  the  place  of  the  late  Mr.  G.  Nicholson. 

Scottisti  Horticultural  Associa- 
tion.— The  monthly  meeting  of  this  association 
was  held  at  5,  St.  Andrew  Square,  Edinburgh, 
on  the  evening  of  the  2Qd  inst.  There  was  a 
large  attendance  of  members,  presided  over  by 
Mr.  James  Whytook,  Dalkeith  Palace  Gardens. 
A  number  of  photographs  of  flowers  in  natural 
colours  were  shown  by  Mr.  E.  L.  Brown,  who 
gave  an  interesting  reference  to  the  value  of  this 


colour-process  photography.  Among  other  ex- 
hibits was  Mosehosma  riparium,  sent  by  Mr. 
W.  Staward,  Belford  Hall,  Northumberland, 
showing  this  fine  old  winter-flowering  plant'in 
splendid  condition.  The  leading  feature  of  the 
evening  was  the  presidential  address  delivered 
by  Mr.  James  Whytook,  in  which  he  dealt  with 
the  changes  affecting  the  professional  gardener 
and  other  questions  of  horticultural  interest. 
Among  other  features  of  a  capital  4nd  suggestive 
address  was  a  reference  to  the  Edinburgh  flower 
shows,  which  did  not  seem  to  be  so  generally 
appreciated  as  at  one  time,  so  that  some  changes 
would  appear  to  be  desirable  to  ensure  a  return 
of  their  popularity.  For  this  Mr.  Whytook 
suggested  the  introduction  of  some  other  popular 
attractions.  He  was  heartily  thanked  for  his 
address. 

Experiments  with  Potato  sets.— 

For  several  years  past  the  agricultural  depart- 
ment of  the  education  committee  of  the  Lancashire 
County  Council  have  been  conducting  experiments 
with  Potato  sets,  with  the  object  of  proving  the 
relative  merits  of  Scottish,  Irish  and  Southern 
sets,  and  also  of  sprouted  and  unsprouted  tubers 
or  those  planted  direct  from  bags.  The  results 
of  these  experiments  are  plainly  set  forth  in  an 
interesting  bulletin  prepared  by  Mr.  Edward 
Porter,  B.Sc,  F.A.C.,  and  Mr.  R.  C.  Gaut, 
B.Sc. ,  N.D.A.  It  was  proved  that  sets  brought 
from  a  northern  latitude  to  a  southern  give 
better  results  than  those  transferred  from  a 
southern  to  a  northern  ;  but  this,  of  course,  has 
been  generally  known  for  some  time.  The  yield 
from  sprouted  Irish-grown  seed  is,  on  the  average, 
below  that  from  Scottish  seed  similarly  treated. 
Seed  Potatoes  from  localities  within  the  county 
did  not  give  such  good  results  as  Scottish  and 
Irish  tubers,  and  sets  obtained  early  in  the  year 
and  sprouted  before  being  planted  gave  a  larger 
crop  than  those  obtained  later  and  planted  direct 
from  the  bags.  It  is  pointed  out  that  the  extra 
yield  thus  obtained  well  repays  the  trouble  of 
sprouting. 

Mr.  R.  'W.  Wallace.  —  Councillor 
Robert  Whistler  Wallace  is  a  son  of  the  late 
Dr.  Alexander  Wallace  of  Colchester,  and  is 
distinguished  as  a  native,  inter  alia,  by  his 
particularly  successful  efforts  to  maintain  the 
borough's  horticultural  repute  by  adding  to  its 
well-known  fame  for  Roses  a  renown  hardly  less 
world-wide  for  Lilies  and  other  flowers,  which  he 
has  cultivated  to  an  extraordinary  degree  of 
perfection,  and  the  products  of  his  skilled  culture 
have  won  innumerable  prizes  at  the  principal 
exhibitions  of  the  kingdom.  Notwithstanding 
the  assiduity  with  which  he  has  pursued  his  own 
business.  Councillor  Wallace  has  found  time  to 
devote  much  useful  service  to  his  town.  As 
representative  of  the  North  Ward  in  the  Town 
Council,  he  has  done  an  immense  amount  of  good 
work,  and  his  appeal  to  the  electors  for  re-election 
next  November  is  not  likely  to  be  made  in  vain. 
In  debate  he  is  a  fearless  speaker  and  often  a 
caustic  critic.  A  staunch  Conservative,  he  is 
ever  active  and  alert  in  the  cause  of  his  party, 
and  is  the  official  whip  of  the  Conservatives  in 
the  Town  Council.  He  is  also  chairman  of  the 
North  Ward  of  the  Colchester  Conservative  and 
Unionist  Association,  a  post  for  which  no  more 
suitable  man  could  possibly  be  found.  He 
married  Miss  Attwood,  daughter  of  the  late  Mr. 
G.  E.  Attwood  of  Colchester. — The  Colchester 
Conservative  and  Unionist  Monthly  Magazine. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  regponaible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

A   note   about  Sweet   Peas.— We 

shall  be  glad  if  you  will  publish  the  following  : 
The  name  Mrs.  J.  Wilcot  given  to  the  Spencer 
American  Pea  mentioned  on  page  36  of  "  The 
Sweet  Pea  Anniial  for  1909"  should  be  Mrs. 
Wilcox,  and  the  variety  named  there  as  Grace 


pEliRUARY    13,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


li) 


Wilson,  which  we  hope  to  send  out  next  year, 
has  been  renamed  Mrs.  B.  Gilbert. — Gilbert  and 
Sox.  Anemone  Nurseries,  Dyke,  Bourne,  Lines, 

Perpetual-flowering  Carna- 
tions.—  I  am  very  much  indebted  to  Mr. 
AUwood  for  his  note  in  TheGarden  of  .January23, 
and  owe  readers  an  apology  for  not  having 
been  more  explicit  in  what  I  wrote  about  nomen- 
clature. I  intended  to  say  that  all  this  race  of 
Carnations  should  be  called  "Perpetual-flower- 
ing," and  that  then  the  more  fringed  and 
crowded  petalled  forms  (such  as  Mrs.  Lawson, 
&c. )  might  be  grouped  together  and  classi- 
fied as  "  American,"  while  for  the  less  crowded 
and  altogether  flatter  petalled  kinds  we  might  use 
the  term  "British,"  each  name  having  a  peculiar 
appropriateness  with  regard  to  the  history  of 
the  flower. — Joseph  .Jacob, 

Tlie  classiflcatlon  of  perpetual- 
flowering  Roses. — I  have  been  expecting 
to  see  in  your  columns  before  this  some  further 
notice  taken  of  the  interesting  points  raised  in  an 
article  with  the  above  heading  that  appeared  in 
The  Garden  of  the  9th  ult.,  and  would  have 
wished  that  someone  more  intimately  connected 
with  exhibition  Roses  had  favoured  you  with 
his  views,  as  the  matter  is  one  that  concerns 
e.xhibitors  only.  I  take  it,  it  is  a  matter  of 
little  or  no  consequence  to  the  non -exhibitor 
whether  a  Rose  is  called  a  Tea,  a  Hybrid  Tea  or  a 
Hybrid  Perpetual,  and  even  whether  being  so 
called  it  is  correctly  labelled.  Approaching  the 
matter,  then,  entirely  from  an  exhibitor's  point 
of  view,  Mr.  Pemberton  commences  with  the 
startling  statement  that  "the  old  distinctions  are 
rapidly  becoming  obliterated,  and  that  though 
they  exist  on  paper  and  in  theory,  they  are  non- 
existent in  practice."  The  old  divisions,  wc  are 
informed,  were  three — the  Hybrid  Perpetual,  the 
Tea  and  the  Bourbon.  They  are  all  still  with  us, 
but  the  third  has  ceased  to  be  regarded  as  a 
distinct  exhibition  type,  and  has  become  merged 
in  the  first;  or  rather,  its  latter-day  descendants, 
where  they  are  sufficiently  worthy,  are  now  shown 
as  Hybrid  Perpetuals.  So  also,  in  practice,  is  a 
fourth  class,  which  apparently  is  causing  all  the 
trouble,  namely, the  Hybrid  Teas ;  so  that, broadly 
speaking,  the  divisions  among  present-day  exhibi- 
tion Roses  are  two — the  Hybrid  Perpetual  and  the 
Tea.  Now  what  is  it  that  governs  this  classifica- 
tion ?  I  submit  that  it  is  the  ipse  di.cit  of  the 
raiser,  confirmed  by  the  body  that  looks  after  the 
general  welfare  of  the  exhibition  Rose,  namely, 
the  National  Rose  Society.  For  the  purposes  of 
exhibition  it  is  really  immaterial  whether  a  Rose 
is  "correctly"  classified  or  not,  although  it  is 
desirable  (and  with  very  few  exceptions,  which  can 
be  counted  on  the  fingers  of  one's  hands,  exhibi- 
tion Roses  are,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  correctly 
classified).  Once  the  National  Rose  Society  puts 
a  Rose  into  one  of  the  divisions,  there  it  remains 
and  must  be  shown  accordingly.  Where,  then,  is 
the  diifieulty '?  The  whole  matter  is  artificial  if 
you  like,  but  if  it  is  laid  down  that  such  a  Rose 
is  a  Hybrid  Perpetual  and  another  a  Tea.  there 
the  difficulty  ends  so  far  as  the  exhibitor  is  con- 
cerned ;  he  must  obey  or  be  disqualified.  I  quite 
agree  that  in  all  probability  Frau  Karl  Druschki 
and  Hugh  Dickson  are  Hybrid  Teas  ;  so  also  is 
Mrs.  Edward  Mawley.  The  Cochets  are  nearer 
the  border  line,  and  I  am  inclined  to  think  they 
are  in  their  right  class ;  but  so  long  as  the  National 
Rose  Society  says  these  Roses  are  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals and  those  are  Teas,  that  is  all  that  is 
necessary  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  exhibitor. 
Mr.  Pemberton's  other  instance,  Harry  Kirk,  is 
followed  by  a  query.  He  states  that  this  Rose 
has  always  been  described  by  the  raiser  as  a  Tea, 
that  the  National  Rose  Society  so  describes  it, 
and  then  goes  on  to  say  that  several  leading 
trade  growers  (who  surely  ought  to  know  better) 
have  placed  it  among  the  Hybrid  Teas.  His 
query  is :  "Would  an  exhibit  of  twelve  exhibition 
Teas  be  disqualified  if  it  contained  a  flower  of 
Harry  Kirk  ? "  Has  he  any  doubt  as  to  the  correct 
answer  to  his  own  question  ?  I  am  sure  he  has 
not.    It  is  possible  that  the  raiser  is  sometimes  in 


it    to    be    a    Tea. 
in    this    connexion? 


doubt  as  to  the  classification  of  a  seedling,  but  he 
must  label  it,  and  he  does  so  to  the  best  of  his 
ability,  the  National  Rose  Society  adjudicates,  and 
the  matter  is  settled.  As  for  further  trouble 
ahead,  I  see  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  met 
in  the  same  way.  Mr.  Pemberton  says :  ' '  Raisers 
.  .  .  are  striving  after  more  yellow  Roses ;  the 
yellow  in  a  Rose  is  derived  from  one  of  the 
original  progenitors  of  the  Tea-scented  Rose,  and 
this  colour  in  a  Rose  indicates  its  affinity."  Is 
Mr.  Pemberton  quite  sure  ?  I  thought  our  new 
yellow  Roses  were  mostly  coming  through  another 
source  — Rosa  lutea  and  its  hybrids,  Soleil  d'Or, 
Melanie  Soupert,  and  the  Lyon  Rose  to  continue  the 
line — and  I  venture  to  think  that  even  raisers 
with  an  eye  to  the  American  market  would 
hesitate  to  label  a  yellow  Rose  a  Hybrid  Tea 
if    they   thought    or    knew  '  "" 

How  about  Harry  Kirk 
Surely  Messrs. 
Alex.  Dickson  and 
Sons  have  an  eye 
to  the  American 
market,  and  surely 
Harry  Kirk  goes  to 
America,  Tea  though 
it  be.  Granted  that 
there  may  be  some 
confusion  as  to  the 
"  real  "  class  to 
which  a  Rose  be- 
longs, my  point  is  : 
whether  a  Rose  is  a 
Hybrid  Tea  or  a  Tea 
is  really,  after  all, 
immaterial  so  long  as 
it  is  known  as  one  or 
the  other.  Granted, 
even  further,  that 
there  is  a  confusion, 
it  does  not  follow 
that  it  is  desirable 
to  do  away  with 
existing  divisions, 
classes  —  call  them 
what  you  may. 
Neither  can  I  agree 
that  the  suggestions 
of  the  writer  of  the 
article,  entitled  as 
they  are  to  the 
fullest  consideration, 
will  remedy  the  eon- 
fusion.  Surely  the 
last  state  will  be 
worse  than  the  first ; 
for  what  is  sug- 
gested ?  As  the 
existing  classes  are 
all  so  much  alike 
(do  you  really  mean 
it,  Mr.  Pemberton  ?), 
they  are  in  future 
to  become  one,  and 
for  the  purposes  of 
exhibition  are  to  be 
known  as  specimen 
Roses.  I  find  no 
fault  with  the  name  :  it  will  serve.  The  rest 
are  to  be  divided  into  (2)  decorative  Roses, 
(3)  garden  Roses  and  (4)  bedding  Roses.  I  admit 
the  terms  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas  and 
Teas  are  puzzling  to  the  novice  ;  but  they  are 
clearness  personified  compared  with  decorative, 
garden  and  bedding  as  applied  to  three  distinc  t 
groups.  The  terms  are  practically  synonymous, 
and  I  do  not  envy  the  poor  experts  that  will  have 
to  decide  between  a  decorative,  a  garden  and  a 
bedding  Rose.  No,  our  present  system  is  not 
perfect  ;  far  from  it.  Of  necessity  it  is  artificial, 
and  therefore  must  be  more  or  less  imperfect ; 
but  it  can  be  governed,  and  is,  I  think,  fairly 
governed,  by  laws  that  are  easily  understood  and 
recognised.  I  cannot  conceive  that  any  real 
distinction  lies  in  the  three  suggested  divi- 
sions. To  catalogue  one  Rose  as  a  decorative 
Rose  and  to  say  that  it  is  not  a  garden  or  a 


bedding  sort  is  surely  splitting  hairs  witli 
a  vengeance,  and  is  turning  the  present  com- 
paratively easy  task  into  an  extremely  difficult, 
if  not  impossible,  one.  Our  schedules  are  capable 
of  great  improvement — that  is  admitted  ;  but  I 
think  it  lies  in  the  direction  of  narrowing  the 
existing  classes,  not  in  widening  them  ;  classes 
for  a  number  of  an  individual  Rose  rather  than 
for  a  colour,  so  that  White  Maman  Coehet  is  not 
competing  against  Mildred  Grant  or  Frau  Karl 
Druschki  in  a  class  for  twelve  white  Roses.  But 
I  will  be  wise  and  not  attempt  to  reconstruct  a 

show  schedule  ;  that   way  lies .      Still,   the 

making  of  schedules  is  very  much  in  the  air  just 
now,  and  therefore  Mr.  Pemberton  could  not 
have  chosen  a  more  fitting  time  to  raise  the  whole 
question  ;  but  I  cannot  think  a  solution  is  to  be 
looked  for  in  the  direction  he  points  out.  Per- 
sonally, I  am  of  opinion  that  the  basis  of  the 


SWEET    I'EA   i;UEE.N    OV   Sl'AIN. 


present  system  must  remain,  and  that  what  is 
required  is  "  mending,  not  ending,"  to  use  a 
phrase  that  is  usually  applied  to  something  that 
is  prominent  just  now  in  quite  another  connexion. 
— Herbert  fc.  Molynbux,  Pnrle.y. 


SWEET   PEA   QUEEN  OF  SPAIN. 

This  charming  Sweet  Pea  was  introduced  bj'  Mr. 
Henry  Eckford  in  1907  and  has  become  exceed- 
ingly popular,  especially  as  a  variety  for  garden 
decoration.  It  is  of  vigorous  habit  and  has  good 
stout  stems,  the  flowers  being  usually  produced 
in  threes  and  splendidly  placed  on  the  stem. 
The  blooms  are  of  medium  size,  and  the  colour 
may  be  described  as  a  sort  of  soft  pink  with  an 
ivory-like  sheen.  In  a  bunch  it  is  particularly 
handsome  and  should  make  a  good  market 
varietj'. 


76 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[February  13,  1909. 


THE    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


THE    NEW    CULINARY    PEA 
REARGUARD. 

IN  this  introduction  it  is  now  within  the 
reach  of  all — amateurs,  gardeners  and 
exhibitors  alike — to  obtain  a  Pea  which  in 
its  own  section  stands  head  and  shoulders 
above  anything  yet  introduced.  Where 
it  has  been  seen  growing  in  trials  of  every 
other  variety  in  commerce,  even  including  the 
most  popular  varieties,  the  claims  of  Rear- 
guard as  the  finest  late  Pea  for  all  purposes 
are  apparent  to  a  novice,  and  connoisseurs  who 
have  already  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  this 
Pea  growing  pronounce  without  hesitation  that, 
unlike  numerous  novelties  that  are  continually 
being  sent  out.  Rearguard  is  all  that  the 
raisers  claim  for  it.  To  sufficiently  grasp  the 
importance  of  this  judgment  it  is  necessary  to 
refer  to  the  actual  description  sent  out  with  the 
Pea,  and  this  carries  full  weight  when  one  has 
it  on  the  word  of  experts  that  there  is  no 
exaggeration.  On  turning  to  the  reference  we 
find  that  Rearguard  is  introduced  as  "  The  best 
latest,  hardiest  and  heaviest  -  cropping  Pea 
extant.  The  plant  is  a  most  robust  grower, 
darker  in  colour  and  stouter  in  stem  than 
Gladstone,  same  height,  i.e.,  4  feet  to  4i  feet, 
very  branching,  producing  fully  80  per  cent,  of 
its  pods  in  pairs  from  very  low  down  the  haulm 
right  to  the  top,  bearing  at  every  joint.  The 
pods  are  quite  one-third  larger  than  the  best 
type  of  Gladstone,  and  are  closely  packed  with 


in  some  of  the  large-podded  sorts  which  often 
bear  but  two  or  three  pods  right  at  the  top  of 
the  haulm.  Were  it  not  such  a  cropper  as  is 
claimed  for  it.  Rearguard  would  have  been  put 
on  the  market,  as  was  originally  intended,  at  the 
restricted  price  of  Id.  per  seed,  the  phenomenal 
crop  produced  being  alone  responsible  for  the 
very  liberal  packet  which  is  now  to  be  obtained 
for  "is.  from  any  up-to-date  seedsman. 

Of  the  numerous  points  of  merit  in  which 
Rearguard  excels,  so  far  only  its  hardiness  and 
productiveness  have  been  dwelt  on.  We  now 
come  to  the  point  which  most  chiefly  concerns  the 
exhibitor,  viz.,  size  of  pods,  combined  with  the 
manner  in  which  they  are  filled.  The  comparison 
made  in  the  size  of  pod  between  Rearguard  and 
Gladstone  was  a  happy  inspiration  on  the  raiser's 
part  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  a  true  idea  of 
Rearguard's  actual  size,  for,  of  course,  every 
grower  and  exhibitor  must  be  familiar  with 
Gladstone. 

It  may  also  be  of  interest  to  exhibitors  to  hear 
that,  although  it  was  then  unnamed  and  not  yet 
in  commerce.  Rearguard  has  already  (by  way  of 
rehearsal,  shall  we  say  V)  appeared  upon  the  exhibi- 
tion stage,  whereon  it  is  destined  to  play  a  leading 
part  in  the  coming  and  subsequent  seasons.  Not- 
withstanding its  having  to  compete  with  an 
excellent  long-podded  variety.  Rearguard  easily 
carried  off  first  honours  on  each  of  the  several 
occasions  it  was  shown.  The  secret  of  its  success 
lies  in  the  fact  that  when  opened  the  pods  are 
found  to  be  packed  with  grand  Peas  from  end  to 
end,  and  with  an  entire  absence  of  that  puttiness 
which   is   caused  by   those   objectionable   blank 


MEMBERS  OF  THE  N.^TIONAL  SWEET  PKA  SOCIETY    INSPECTING    THE  CB0P3  AT   MESSRS. 
AND  sons'  trial  GROUNDS,    KELVEDON. 


from  nine  to  twelve  rich  green,  large,  deliciously- 
flavoured  Peas." 

Commenting   first   upon  its  hardiness,   unlike 
many   recent  large-podded   introductions    Rear-  : 
guard  can   be  sown    at    any  time    during    the ' 
sowing  season.     This  has  been  proved  up  to  the  | 
hilt  by  the  fact  that,  of  all  seasons,   last  season 
it  was  sown  as  early  as  the  middle  of  February  in 
an  open  field,  and  also  as  late  as  the  end  of  May, 
besides  at  various  times  in  the  interlude,  every 
sowing  proving  a  complete  success  in  its  result,      j 

As  to  its  cropping  propensities,  the  description 
rightly  draws  particular  attention  to  the  fact  j 
that  it  bears  from  the  greater  part  of  the  entire 
length  of  its  haulm,  a  feature  which  in  itself  is 
of  distinctive  merit  and  will  commend  itself  to 
those    who  have  grown  and    been  disappointed  ' 


spaces  which,  unfortunately,  are  a  predominant 
and  retrograde  feature  in  many  otherwise  excel- 
lent sorts.  In  Rearguard  twelve  Peas  may  often 
be  found  in  a  pod,  while  it  is  quite  an  unusual 
thing  to  find  an\'  well-developed  pod  of  this 
variety  having  less  than  ten  Peas.  For  what 
other  Pea  could  so  much  be  claimed? 

In  further  recommendation,  if  such  be  wanted, 
it  is  only  necessary  to  state  that  the  raisers  of 
this  grand  Pea  are  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
Limited,  the  well-known  rosarians,  a  firm 
who,  as  new  Pea  raisers,  can  claim  that  they 
have  never  brought  out  a  new  Pea  that  was  not 
of  sterling  merit  in  addition  to  being  distinct. 
To  summarise  the  results  of  their  work  in  this 
direction,  the  list  of  their  introductions  is  com- 
plete in  Royal  Salute,  The  Pilot  and  Rearguard, 


all  of  which  have  been  obtained  by  crossing  and 
years  of  careful  selection. 

There  can  be  little  doubt  that  if  Messrs. 
Dickson  cared  to  publish  the  exact  parentage 
and  history  of  Rearguard  it  would  alone  con- 
stitute an  interesting  article,  as  to  obtain  the 
success  achieved  some  recrossing  has  been 
involved  ;  but  when  one  reflects  upon  the  unusual 
hardiness  of  the  variety  compared  with  other  late 
varieties,  it  would  be  fairly  safe  to  assume  that 
Rearguard  may  have  some  Pilot  blood  in  it, 
but  from  whence  it  inherits  its  monstrous  pod 
it  would  be  mere  guesswork  to  hazard  an 
opinion.  H.  K. 


NATIONAL  SWEET  PEA 
SOCIETY'S  OUTINGS  IN  1908. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  and  enjoyable 
features  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society  is  pro- 
vided by  the  outings  arranged  annually  for  the 
members,  usually  to  some  place  where  Sweet  Peas 
are  largely  grown.  During  the  past  year  the  mem- 
bers visited  the  society's  trials  at  Reading,  and 
also  the  trials  of  Messrs.  Hurst  and  Sons  at 
Kelvedon  and  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.  at  Mark's 
Tey.  At  all  the  places  a  most  enjoyable  time 
was  spent,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  day 
chosen  for  the  Reading  visit  was  a  wet  one.  Our 
illustrations  depict  some  of  the  members  among 
the  Sweet  Peas  in  Messrs.  Hurst  and  Sons'  trials 
and  the  members  grouped  on  the  lawn  in  front 
of  Mr.  N.  N.  Sherwood's  charming  house  at 
Prested  Hall,  Peering,  Essex. 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN. 


THE    DESTRUCTION    OF    INSECT 
PESTS    ON    FRUIT    TREES. 

NOW  that  the  cultivation  of  fruit  has 
become  so  much  of  a  commercial 
enterprise  in  this  country,  it  is  only 
natural  to  find  growers  more  anxious 
than  ever  to  discover  the  best  means 
of  combating  and  exterminating  the 
many  injurious  insect  pests  which  attack  fruit 
trees  of  various  kinds,  and  by  their  depre- 
dations cause  no  small  loss  to  the  cultivator. 
The  tenth  report  of  the  Woburn  Experimental 
Fruit  Farm,  which  has  just  been  published,  is 
packed  with  information  on  the  subject,  and  its 
interest  is  only  exceeded  by  its  value.  Never, 
we  think,  has  his  Grace  the  Duke  of  Bedford, 
aided  by  Mr.  Spencer  Pickering,  given  to  the 
fruit-growing  community  information  of  greater 
value,  and  this  is  saying  much. 

Although  lack  of  space  deters  us  from  dealing 
exhaustively  with  the  report,  we  give  here  a 
few  of  the  results  of  the  various  experiments 
conducted  at  the  Fruit  Farm  during  the  past  year, 
and  to  those  who  desire  fuller  details  we  com- 
mend the  report.  In  treating  nursery  stock 
(Apples)  for  woolly  aphis  or  American  blight, 
fumigating  with  cyanide  of  potassium,  and  im- 
mersing, or  partly  immersing,  the  trees  in  various 
forms  of  petroleum,  Woburn  Wash  and  hot 
water  were  tried,  the  latter  proving  the  most 
satisfactory  in  every  way,  and  the  fumigating  the 
least.  Not  only  is  the  hot-water  treatment  quite 
safe,  but  it  eflects  a  complete  clearance  of  the 
pest.  Two  experiments  with  this  were  made, 
one  consisting  of  immersing  the  trees  in  water 
maintained  at  a  temperature  of  1'25°  for  five 
minutes,  and  in  the  other  the  trees  were  sub- 
merged in  water  maintained  at  ll;!"  for  ten 
minutes.  The  last-named  proved  the  most  satis- 
factory, and  is  the  method  that  should  be  adopted 
in  dealing  with  small  nursery  stock.  As  pointed 
out  in  the  report,  there  would  be  a  difficulty  in 
applying  hot  water  to  orchard  trees,  but 
undoubtedly  it  is  the  most  efficacious,  as  it 
destroys  eggs  as  well  as  insects.  The  spraying  of 
trees  in  leaf  for  the  destruction  of  woolly  aphis 


Febkuahy  13,  1909. 


THE    GAEDEN. 


1 1 


with  various  forms  of  petroleum  has,  so  far,  not 
proved  very  satisfactory ;  true,  the  pests  have 
been  to  a  large  extent  killed,  but  the  trees  have 
also  suffered  considerably,  and  the  adoption  of 
this  treatment  is  not  recommended  except  in 
very  extreme  cases,  where  drastic  measures  are 
absolutely  necessary :  then  oils  of  intermediate 
volatility  should  be  used. 

The  experiments  made  in  spraying  for  the 
destruction  of  the  Apple  sucker  (Psylla)  are  of  a 
most  interesting  character,  and  demonstrate  fully 
the  futility  of  using  either  solutions  of  common 
salt  or  lime  and  salt,  which  were  thought  a  few 
years  ago  to  be  efficacious.  In  addition  to  these 
solutions,  Woburu  Wash,  the  same  plus  salt, 
carbolic  acid  1  per  cent,  and  nicotine  solutions  of 
various  strengths  were  used.  With  Wobum 
Wash,  and  the  same  plus  salt,  5  per  cent,  only 
were  killed,  and  the  carbolic  acid  was  totally 


sawfly  caterpillars,  however,  it  was  much  slower 
in  causing  death.  The  arsenate  and  nicotine 
mixed  came  next,  80,  100  and  86  per  cent,  of  the 
vapourer,  ermine  and  sawfly  caterpillars  being 
killed  respectively. 

In  the  field  experiments  those  conducted  with 
the  vapourer  moth  caterpillars  were  not  com- 
plete, but  were  sufficient,  however,  to  prove  that 
the  copper  and  iron  sulphate  emulsions  were 
absolutely  efficacious.  With  the  ermine  moth 
caterpillar  nicotine  solution  appeared  practically 


SWEET     PEA     CHAT. 


s 


OWING  SEEDS  IN  POTS.— Taking 
all  things  into  consideration,  there  is  no 
better  time,  after  the  turn  of  the  year, 
for  sowing  seeds  in  pots  than  the 
second  half  of  February,  and  there  is 
no  doubt  whatever  that  thousands 
(one  might  almost  write  millions)  of  seeds  will  then 
be  put  m.  Some  will  sow  their  seeds  in  3-inch 
pots    and    others    will   use   those    6    inches    in 


useless,  but  used  in  conjunction  with  arsenate  it !  diameter  ;  others,  again,  will  pin  their  faith 
proved  of  value.  The  iron  sulphate  emulsion,  i  upon  shallow  boxes,  while  another  school  will 
however,  is  apparently  the  most  effective  of  all.  advocatedeepboxesforthepurpose.  Thenweshall 
Unfortunately,  any  paraffin  emulsion  cannot  be  find  growers  who  affirm  that  a  greenhouse  is  an 
applied  while  the  trees  are  in  bloom,  but  where  ,  ideal  place  after  sowing,  while  a  second  set  will 
they  have  been  treated  tor  both  PsylU  and  this    declare  that  there  is  no  place  equal  to  a  cold 


caterpillar  it  is  advised  that  the  spraying  be  done 
just   after   the   flowers    have   faded,   using    the 


MEMBERS  OF  THE   NATIONAL  SWEET  PEA   SOCTETr  ON   MK.    N.    N.    SHERWOOD'S   LAWN,    PRESTED   HALL,    ESSt.\. 


ineffective  ;    the    Woburn    Wash   solutions   also 
scorched  the  foliage  badly.     Of  the  nicotine  solu- 
tions, the  one  containing  0  15  of  nicotine  was  most 
effective,  that  with  0  To  of  nicotine  present  coming 
next.      It   was   also  proved  that  moderate  rain 
falling  soon  after  the  spraying  has  little  ultimate 
effect  on  the  results,  the  benefit  only  being  delayed 
for  a  time.     Spraying  was  performed  on  May  7, 
May  17  and  May  26,  a  different  set  of  trees  being 
treated  each  time,  and  the  results  were  practically 
the  same.     The  spraying  with  lime  and  salt  was 
carried  out  on  February  "26.     It  is  only  fair  to  ! 
add  that  the  authorities  at  Woburn  have  never  . 
claimed  that  the  Woburn  Wash  was  effective  for  j 
Psylla.      It  is  pointed  out  that  purchasers  of  [ 
nicotine   should   insist   on    having    its    strength 
guaranteed,  and  also  that  the  treatment  of  Psylla  i 
by  this  substance  is  rather  expensive.  i 

Laboratory  and  field  experiments  were  made 
with  various  substances  to  ascertain  their  effect  I 
on  the  caterpillars  of  the  common  vapourer  moth,  i 
small  ermine  moth  and  the  Gooseberry  and 
Currant  sawfly,  and  field  experiments  on  the 
mealy  Plum  aphis.  The  mixtures  used  were 
(1)  a  1"5  per  cent,  emulsion  made  with  copper 
sulphate,  lime  water,  solar  distillate  (a  form  of 
paraffin  or  petroleum)  and  water  ;  (2)  a  similar  \ 
emulsion  made  with  iron  sulphate  instead  of 
copper ;  (3)  a  015  per  cent,  solution  of  lead 
arsenate  ;  (4)  a  0"75  per  cent,  solution  of  nicotine ; 
(5)  lead  arsenate  and  nicotine  mixed,  0'15  per  | 
cent,  of  the  former  and  0  75  per  cent,  of  the 
latter.  Iq  the  laboratory  experiments  the  copper 
sulphate  emulsion  proved  the  most  effective,  the 
percentage  of  mortality  in  each  instance  being 
100.  No.  4,  the  nicotine  solution,  came  next, 
100  per  cent,  of  the  vapourer  and  ermine  moth 
caterpillars  being  killed  and  75  per  cent,  of  those 
of  the  sawfly.     In  the  ease  of  the  vapourer  and 


emulsion  with  075  per  cent,  of  nicotine  mixed 
with  it.  It  would  be  more  effective  to  spray 
twice,  once  with  the  nicotine  solution  for  the 
Psylla,  following  this  later  with  the  emulsion  for 
the  caterpillar  ;  but  this  would  prove  too  expen- 
sive for  general  practice. 

The  field  experiments  in  connexion  with  the 


frame.  Amid  such  a  diversity  of  counsel  the 
beginner  is  apt  to  become  rather  bewildered,  and 
the  best  advice  that  can  be  given  is 
to  use  pots  according  to  his  con- 
venience. If  he  has  not  got  a 
greenhouse  to  put  them  in,  a  frame 
is  suitable.  It  is  not  so  much  a 
question  of  size  of  pot  or  particular 
position  as  it  is  of  subsequent  per- 
sonal attention. 

The  Soil. — The  best  soil  consists 
of  equal  parts  of  good  loam  and 
sweet  leaf-mould,  with  sufficient 
sharp  sand  to  keep  the  compost 
quite  porous  and  open.  But  sup- 
posing a  grower  to  be  so  situated 
that  he  cannot  command  either 
leaf-mould  or  loam,  then  take  any 
ordinary  soil,  adding  rather  more 
sand  and  paying  especial  care  to 
the  drainage.  Whatever  is  chosen 
in  the  way  of  soil  should  be  moist, 
and  if  it  can  be  prepared  ten  days 
or  so  before  actual  use  so  much 
the  better.  It  is  the  custom  of 
some  growers  to  add  a  little  bone- 
meal  or  other  fertiliser  to  the 
mixture  for  the  seed-pots  ;  but  this 
is  unnecessary,  for  the  simple 
reason  that  it  is  difficult  to  know 
where  to  stop,  and  it  is  so 
extremely  easy  to  do  harm  rather  than  good. 
It  is  indisputable  that  young  seedlings  will  find 
an  ample  supply  of  food  in  plain  loam  and  leaf- 
mould,  and  any  endeavour  to  encourage  pro- 
gress with  special  foods  is  far  more  likely  to  do 
harm  than  good. 

The  Pots  or  Boxes. — Six-inch  pots  are  pre- 
ferable to  either  those  of  smaller  size  or  boxes. 


caterpillars  of  the  Gooseberry  and  Currant  saw 

fly  were  carried  out  to  ascertain  whether  paraffin  i  With  the  latter  the  work  of  transplantion  with 
emulsion  could  be  effectively  used  instead  of  lead  \  out  doing  substantial  injury  to  the  roots  is  most 
arsenate.     The  iron  sulphate  emulsion  referred  i  difficult,  while  if  small  pots  are  used  the  roots 


to  above  was  used  on  one  set  of  bushes  and  a  lead 
arsenate  solution  on  the  other.  Both  proved 
equally  effective,  but  the  emulsion  acted  the 
quicker  of  the  two.  A  point  worthy  of  notice 
here  is  that  although  the  foliage  was  slightly 
stained  by  the  iron  but  not  injured,  the  berries 
were  scarcely  affected  at  all,  and  were  gathered 
and  sold  at  current  rates  within  two  or  three 
days  of  the  spraying.  Hitherto  the  great 
objection  to  the  use  of  lead  arsenate  has  been  its 
poisonous  character,  and  growers  will,  we  think, 
welcome  a  safe  and  effective  substitute. 

The  iron  emulsion  was  tried  and  found  most 
effective  on  the  Apple  aphis  in  1907,  and  last 
year  it  was  tried  on  mealy  Plum  aphis  with 
equally  good  results.  In  addition  to  killing  the 
insects  it  also  effectually  cleansed  the  foliage  of 
dirt  caused  by  them.  These  experiments  are 
carried  out  with  the  greatest  possible  care, 
and  last  summer  we  had  the  pleasure  of 
inspecting  some  of  the  trees  that  had  been 
dealt  with. 

The  report  can  be  obtained  from  the  Mana- 
ger, Woburu  Fruit  Farm,  Ridgmont,  Beds, 
post  free  Is.  IJd.,  or  may  be  ordered  through 
a  bookseller,  the  publishers  being  the  Amalga- 
mated Press,  Limited,  Carmelite  Street,  London, 
E.C. 


may  become  matted  hard  round  the  sides  of 
the  ball  before  it  is  either  necessary  or  wise  to 
carry  out  the  permanent  planting.  Of  course,  if 
the  plants  are  potted  on  into  6-inoh  pots  the 
latter  trouble  is  not  likely  to  arise,  for  these  will 
provide  the  indispensable  depth.  In  any  case, 
proper  provision  must  be  made  for  drainage  by 
placing  one  large  crock  hollow  side  downwards 
above  the  hole  and  a  few  smaller  ones  over  that, 
finally  covering  with  a  little  moss  or  other 
material  that  will  prevent  the  fine  particles  of 
soil  silting  down  and  blocking  the  outlet.  If 
small  pots  are  used  one  seed  only  must  be 
placed  in  each,  while  if  larger  ones  are  relied 
upon  five  seeds  should  find  accommodation  in  a 
6-inch  pot  ;  if  boxes  are  utilised  the  seeds  should 
be  set  4  inches  asunder,  those  with  white  skins 
being  put  in  sand  whether  pots  or  boxes  are 
used. 

After  Sowing. — Equally  satisfactory  results 
will  accrue  from  placing  the  pots  in  either  a 
greenhouse  or  a  frame,  provided  that  the  soil  is 
kept  moderately  moist  at  all  times  and  that  in 
the  latter  case  the  pots  are  kept  well  to  the 
light,  especially,  of  course,  immediately  after 
germination.  No  attempt  must  be  made  to  force 
the  plants  in  heat,  as  this  always  leads  to 
disaster.     Grow  the  seedlings  so  that  the  growth 


78 


THE    GARDEN. 


(February  13,  190;>. 


is  strong  and  so  that  they  will  not  materially  feel 
the  different  conditions  when  they  have  to  be 
put  out  of  doors  in  April.  If  the  receptacles 
are  placed  in  frames,  one  of  the  chief  sources  of 
worry  will  be  mice,  and  the  best  thing  is  to  put 
a  square  of  glass  on  the  rim  of  each  pot ;  this 
causes  a  little  trouble,  but  it  is  more  reliable  than 
either  trapping  or  poison.  Both  of  the  latter 
expedients  can  also  be  had  recourse  to  if  it  is 
considered  necessary.  Si'BNcer. 


SWEET    PEAS 
SANDY 


IN  A  POOR 
SOIL. 


THE  district  in  which  I  am  situated  is, 
in  many  ways,  a  trying  one  for  the 
horticulturist.  It  is  near  the  sea, 
high  winds  prevail,  a  ver}-  wet 
winter  is  the  rule  and  the 
soil  is  poor.  When  I  entered 
into  possession  of  my  garden  I  liad  only 
to  dig  down  15  inches  to  yellow  sand. 
In  the  face  of  such  diiEculties,  one  can 
only  learn  from  experience,  and  the 
constant  care  and  thought  necessary 
ensure  a  large  measure  of  success  when 
once  suitable  subjects  have  been  found. 
The  following  treatment  of  our  most 
beautiful  annual  has  yielded  excellent 
results  with  me  : 

Preparing  the  Ground. — During  Sep- 
tember procure  a  supply  of  good  stable 
manure  and  stack  it  in  alternate  layers 
of  about  4  inches  deep  with  fallen  leaves. 
As  soon  as  the  ground  is  cleared  (not 
later   than   October)   mark    off   a    piece 

2  feet  (j  inches  broad  and  as  long  as 
required.  Dig  it  over,  working  in 
some  soil  fumigant,  such  as  Vaporite. 
Towards  the  end  of  December,  in 
favourable  weather  remove  the  top 
layer  of  soil  to  a  depth  of  9  inches 
to  12  inches,  and  dig  over  the  subsoil  a 
good  spade  deep,  incorporating  a  gene- 
rous measure  of  the  leaf  and  manure 
mixture.  Allow  this  to  remain  rough  for 
three  weeks,  after  which  the  top  layer 
should  be  returned  to  its  original 
position.  Before  the  end  of  January 
hoe  in  bone-meal  in  the  proportion  of 
2oz.  to  the  square  yard. 

SowitKj. — It  is  best  to  sow  in  pots,  but 
not  too  early.  By  sowing  during  the 
second  week  in  February  we  can  get 
flowers  in  June,  and,  with  proper 
attention,  they  are  good  for  cutting 
until  October.  Sowing  earlier  than  this 
means  that  the  young  plants  are  too 
far  advanced  before  the  weather  con- 
ditions permit  of  planting  out.  Use 
good  potting  soil  and  sow  five  seeds 
half  an  inch  deep  in  a  -t-ineh  pot.  Label 
the    pots    and    place    them    in    a    cold  ''^ 

frame  or  near  the  glass  in  a  cool  green- 
house.    When  the  young  plants  are  about 

3  inches  high,  place  small  twigs  among  them 
to  give  support  as  soon  as  they  require  it. 
Towards  the  end  of  March  begin  to  harden  off, 
and  plant  out  as  soon  as  possible  a  fter  the 
middle  of  April. 

Planting  Ou^.— Early  in  April,  down  the  centre 
of  the  piepared  ground  make  a  shallow  trench 
12  inches  wide  and  4  inches  deep.  Water  this 
with  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  soda,  half  an  ounce 
to  the  gallon  and  one  gallon  to  every  3  yards 
of  length.  When  ready  to  plant  out,  place  the 
pots  at  points  16  inches  apart  all  down  the  row. 
Turn  out  the  ball  of  earth  whole  and  plant  with 
as  little  disturbance  of  the  roots  as  possible. 
When  the  planting  is  finished  the  4-inch  trench 
should  remain  ;  this  affords  a  certain  shelter  to 
the  young  plants,  and  later  on  is  a  great  con- 
venience for  watering  and  applying  liquid  manure. 

Stak'niy. — As  soon  as  possible  now,  place  2-feet 
branches  of  Hazel  round  each  clump.     When  the 


Peas  get  to  the  top  of  the  Hazel  branches  drive 
in  8-feet  stakes  in  pairs,  one  stake  on  each  side 
of  the  row  at  intervals  of  4  feet ;  join  these  up 
with  tirred  sewing  twine  as  the  plants  grow. 
Commence  with  the  lengths  of  twine  about  4  inches 
apart  and  gradually  increase  to  S  inches  until  the 
top  of  the  stakes  is  reached.  This  makes  an 
excellent  method  of  support,  giving  the  plants 
more  freedom  and  being  less  unsightly  than  any 
I  know.  Galvanised  wire-netting  is  much 
recommended,  but  with  it  I  find  that  the  tendrils 
are  very  apt  to  v/ither  and  break  away.  This,  I 
imagine,  is  caused  by  the  extremes  of  temperature 
to  which  the  wire  is  subjected. 

Waterimi  and  Manuring. ^Aiter  the  warm 
weather  has  set  in,  put  into  the  trench  2  inches 
of  an  equal  part  mixture  of  old  manure  and 
loam.  This  leaves  2  inches  still  for  watering. 
Watering  should,   however,    be   resorted   to  as 


weather  so  well  as  Dorothy  Eckford.  King 
Edward  is  absolutely  sun-proof,  but  the  variety 
Queen  Alexandra  fades  a  little.  Henry  Eckford 
is  useless  here  :  Helen  Lewis  is  much  better. 
Countess  Spencer,  John  Ingman,  Sybil  Eckford, 
Black  Knight,  Lady  Grizel  Hamilton,  Mrs. 
Walter  Wright,  Jessie  Cuthbertson,  Helen  Pierce, 
Lord  Nelson,  Dorothy  Eckford,  King  Edward  and 
Helen  Lewis  make  a  good  dozen.  The  Marquis, 
Menie  Christie,  Prince  Olaf,  St.  George  and 
•James  Grieve  are  very  good  among  lilltS  varieties. 
Ayrshire,  N.B.  P.  T. 


GROWING.  CUPID  SWEET  PEAS 

IN     B.VRRELS. 

The  illustration  shows  Cupid  Sweet  Peas  in  a 
barrel  and  may  be  of  interest  to  some 
readers.  Standing  in  the  centre  of  cross 
walks  the  effect  is  hard  to  beat.  Seeds 
should  be  sown  singly  in  small  pots  in 
spring  and  the  plants  transferred  to  the 
holes  in  the  barrel  from  inside  when 
large  enough.  The  soil  used  must  be  of  a 
rich  nature  and  made  quite  firm,  other- 
wise it  will  subside  and  draw  the  plants 
from  the  holes.  Keep  ratlier  moist  and 
pick  off  seed-pods  as  soon  as  they 
appear.  Water  with  weak  liquid  manure 
as  the  soil  becomes  exhausted. 

Elhie  Cattle.  Northesk. 


COLOURED    PLATE. 


PID   SWEET   l'E.\3   liROWING    IN    .\N   OLD    BARREL   IN 
SCOTTISH   HARDEN. 

little  as  possible,  and  when  it  is  necessary  fill  the 
trench  completely,  allow  it  to  soak  in  and  fill 
again.  Should  hot  weather  set  in,  early  flower- 
ing may  commence  too  soon  ;  this  means  dwarfed 
plants  and  short  flower-stems.  I  make  a  practice 
of  removing  buds  until  the  plants  have  reached 
about  3i  feet  in  height.  When  the  buds  begin 
to  show  colour,  commence  to  supply  weak  liquid 
manure  ;  nitrate  of  soda  alternated  with  guano 
gives  good  results.  Use  the  nitrate  of  soda  at 
half  an  ounce  to  the  gallon  and  the  guano  at 
2oz.  to  the  gallon  ;  give  an  application  once  a 
week  when  the  ground  is  wet.  Cut  freely, 
persistently  remove  fading  flowers,  thin  the 
shoots  where  there  is  overcrowding,  and  a  long 
season  of  splendid  blooms  will  result.  A  word 
as  to  varieties.  Among  the  whites  Dorothy 
Eckford  is  still  the  best.  Nora  Unwin  and  Etta 
Dyke  are  beautiful  flowers  :  but  my  experience 
with  Nora  Unwin  is  that  it  does  not  stand  the 


PLATE  1867. 


THREE  POPULAPt  SWEET  PEAS. 

IT  is  safe  to  assert  that  the  three 
Sweet  Peas  depicted  in  the  coloured 
plate  presented  with  this  issue 
are  among  the  most  popular  of 
the  varieties  now  in  general  culti- 
vation, and  each  has  something 
specially  in  its  favour.  In  Frank  Dolby 
we  have  one  of  the  best  lavenders  obtain- 
alile,  and  although,  like  all  varieties  of 
this  colour,  it  is  not  absolutely  fixed,  a 
large  percentage  usually  come  true,  at 
least  so  far  as  colour  is  concerned ;  but 
although  it  is  reputedly  a  plain  standard 
variety,  it  is  not  unusual  to  get  flowers 
that  are  slightly  waved. 

Nora  Unwin  is  too  well  known  to 
need  much  to  be  said  about  it  here. 
It  is  one  of  the  Unwin  class,  which 
differ  somewhat  from  the  Countess 
Spencer  type  in  shape  and  are  not  so 
liable  to  sport.  The  flowers  are  of 
splendid  substance  and  are  usually  pro- 
'^  duced  in  threes  and  fours.     As  a  decora- 

tive variety    for  the  garden   this  Sweet 
Pea     is    first    class,    the    plants    being 
very   robust   and   free    and    the    foliage    strong 
and  healthy.     It  is  aUo  splendid  for  exhibition 
purposes. 

King  Edward  VII.  will  long  hold  its  position 
as  the  best  crimson  unwaved  variety.  The 
flowers  are  large  and  of  grand  substance,  the 
standard  being  slightly  hooded.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  robust  varieties  in  cultivation, 
and  always  has  long,  stout  flower-stems.  In 
addition  it  is  remarkably  free  -  flowering, 
and  is  just  the  Sweet  Pea  for  an  amateur 
to  grow.  It  is  quite  fixed,  which  is  no 
small  point  in  its  favour.  Those  who  like  this 
Sweet  Pea,  and  there  are  few  who  do  not,  will 
probably  welcome  the  waved  form  of  it  which  is 
on  the  market  this  year  under  the  name  of  The 
King.  It  is  rather  brighter  in  colour  than  the 
plain  form,  the  flowers  being  large  and  of  good 
substance.  Unfortunately,  however,  they  burn 
a  little  in  very  bright  sunshine. 


Fei'.uuary  13,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


79 


SWEET     PEA     CROSS-FERTI- 
LISING   REMINISCENCES. 

THE  artificial  c-ross-fertilisation  of  the 
Sweet  Pea  is  a  simple  operation,  and 
the  raising  of  new  varieties  is  in- 
teresting and  fascinating  work  ;  but 
the  subsequent  sowing  and  selecting, 
and,  finally,  the  fixing  entail  consider- 
able labour  and  patience,  as  well  as  a  large 
extent  of  ground  on  which  to  grow  the  seedlings. 
A  knowledge  of  Mendel's  law  is  also  essential  in 
addition  to  careful  selection  and  roguing,  and 
the  seed  of  individual  plants  must  be  kept 
separate  in  order  to  find  out  which  plants  will 
prove  true  from  the  time  of  their  first  appearance. 
The  earlier  in  the  season  cross-fertilisation  is 
effected  the  better,  as  there  is  then  more  time  for 
the  pods  to  form  and  the  seed  to  ripen,  and  dull 
but  not  wet  weather  should  be  chosen  for  the 
operation  if  possible  ;  in  hot,  dry  weather  the 
anthers  burst  and  the  pollen  becomes  free  when 
the  flower  is  in  a  very  early  stage  of  development, 
and  if  fertilisation  is  effected  the  embryo  seed- 
pods  are  apt  to  fall  off. 

My  first  vBQture  in  eross-fertilising  Sweet  Peas 
was  io  189.5,  when,  after  many  visits  to  Eckford's 
gardens  at  Weni,  I  determined  to  try  and  raise 
new  varieties  myself.  The  plants  selected  were 
Blanche  Burpee  and  Countess  of  Radnor,  and 
the  resulting  flowers  in  1896  were  all  of  one 
colour  only,  viz.,  dark  purple,  not  unlike 
Monarch.  In  my  innocence  I  imagined  that 
this  was  fixed,  and  at  the  suggestion  of  a  friend 
I  even  went  the  length  of  giving  it  a  name,  and 
when  it  broke  into  several  distinct  colours  the 
following  year  the  gardener  was  blamed  for 
having  mixed  the  seed ;  but  I  erred  in  good 
company,  for  did  not  the  late  Henry  Kekford, 
when  he  commenced  his  great  work  of  crossing 
Sweet  Peas,  allow  Bronze  Prince  to  be  distributed 
before  it  was  fixed,  and  the  mixture  that  resulted 
was  then  attributed  to  mice  carrying  the  seeds 
about  and  mixing  them  ?  These  breaks  were 
more  or  less  identical  with  named  varieties,  and 
consequently  not  worth  fixing,  though  I  grew  a 
•few  of  them  for  several  years,  a  pure  white 
variety  coming  true  from  the  first. 

For  the  next  few  years  I  continued  crossing 
named  sorts  with  no  more  satisfactory  results, 
and  it  was  not  until  I  began  to  use  my  own  seed- 
lings as  pollen  parents  that  I  was  able  to  feel  that 
there  was  a  possibility  of  catching  up  Eokford. 

The  use  of  impure,  i.e.,  unfixed,  strains  gives  a 
greater  variety  of  breaks  than  the  use  of  fixed 
sorts  alone.  As  a  rule  I  used  sharply  contrasting 
colours  for  crossing,  in  order  to  see  at  a  glance  if 
the  cross  had  been  successful  ;  but  this  is  not 
always  apparent  in  the  first  generation,  for  in 
1898  I  crossed  Black  Knight  with  Lidy  Mary 
Currie,  and  every  one  of  the  resulting  plants  in 
the  following  year  was  a  true  Black  Knight  in 
form  and  colour.  Knowing,  however,  that  the 
fertilisation  had  been  carefully  done,  and  feeling 
certain  that  the  cross  had  taken,  I  saved  some 
seed  from  these  plants  and  grew  it  in  1900,  when  it 
produced  a  few  Black  Knights  and  some  very  fine 
deep-coloured  Lady  Mary  Curries,  which  latter 
proved  to  be  fixed.  This  success  with  seedlings 
crossed  with  named  varieties  gave  me 
such  encouragement  that  in  1900  my  crosses 
were  so  numerous  and  the  seed  ripened  so  well 
that  in  two  years'  time  I  had  far  more  seedlings 
than  I  could  attend  to  properly,  and  too  close 
planting  and  a  wet  season  nearly  lost  me  the 
entire  crop.  However,  I  always  kept  some  seed 
in  reserve  in  case  of  accidents,  so  I  was  not  com- 
pelled to  begin  afresh,  though  it  was  particularly 
annoying  to  have  lost  a  season's  growth. 

My  method  was  simpler  than  that  adopted  by 
many  writers  on  the  subject,  and  I  did  not  require 
an  elaborate  outfit  of  camel-hair  brush,  tweezers, 
muslin  bags,  &e.  ;  the  whole  operation  was 
performed  at  one  and  the  same  time,  instead  of 
being  spread  over  two  or  three  days,  as  is  gene- 
rally said  to  be  necessary.     After  turning  back 


the  standard  and  wings  of  a  half -developed  bud, 
pulling  off  the  keel  and  removing  the  anthers 
with  the  finger  and  thumb,  the  keel  of  the  pollen 
parent  containing  the  style  and  anthers  was  fitted 
on  to  the  pistil  of  the  seed  parent,  the  standard 
and  wings  of  the  latter  folded  round  it,  and  the 
whole  lightly  tied  with  a  thin  strip  of  raffia  to 
prevent  the  keel  with  its  pollen  being  blown  off 
before  the  stigma  had  reached  the  receptive 
stage  and  pollination  had  been  effected.  It  may 
be  thought  that  this  rough-and-ready  method 
allows  of  interference  by  bees  or  other  insects  ; 
but  I  think  it  would  be  as  difficult  for  a  bee  to 
untie  the  raffia  and  reach  the  stigma  as  to  effect 
an  entrance  into  a  muslin  bag,  and  even  a  large 
moth  or  the  leaf -cutter  bee  would  have  its  calcu- 
lations upset  if  it  tried  to  depress  the  tied-up 
keel  by  sitting  on  the  end.  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
I  am  no  believer  in  the  fertilisation  of  old-type 
Sweet  Peas  by  insect  agency,  and  have  never 
come  across  an  instance  of  pollination  which 
could  be  attributed  to  this  cause. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  most  Sweet  Peas  are 
apt  to  deteriorate  in  course  of  time,  and  in 
order  to  keep  thorn   up   to  the  mark   a   careful 


colour),  is  another.  These  are  the  only  two  instances 
in  my  recollection  of  Sweet  Peas  raised  by  Eckford 
being  distributed  by  him  before  they  were  properly 
fixed.  Of  course,  it  sometimes  happened  that 
an  odd  seed  or  two  of  another  sort  was  found  in 
a  packet  of  a  new  variety  ;  but  this  was  not  a 
case  of  unfixedness,  because  seed  from  these 
adventitious  plants  invariably  came  true,  and  I 
was  always  careful  to  isolate  them  and  save  the 
seed  separately.  Some  of  those  obtained  in 
this  way  "  on  the  cheap  "  and  before  they  were 
distributed  were  Dorothy  Eckford,  Mrs.  Fitz- 
gerald (a  great  favourite  of  mine  for  cross- 
fertilising  purposes),  Lady  Mary  Currie, 
Triumph,  Royal  Rose  and  Blanche  Burpee.  I 
saw  Lady  Grizel  Hamilton  growing  at  Wem 
for  several  years  before  it  was  sent  out  in  1898, 
and,  though  such  an  old  stager,  it  is  still  the 
leading  flower  among  the  old-type  varieties  in 
the  lavender  class.  By  distributing  it,  although 
unfixed,  Henry  Eckford  earned  the  gratitude  of 
all  lovers  of  the  Sweet  Pea.  Fascination  was, 
I  believe,  grown  for  twelve  years  or  more,  and 
was  only  then  (1900)  distributed  owing  to  the 
importunity  of  some  of  its  admirers. 


GATHERING  SWEET  PEAS  FOR  KXHIBITIOS  IN  MR.  ROBERT  CHAPLIN  S  NURSERY  AT  WALTHAM  CROSS. 


process  of  selection  or  the  raising  of  new 
varieties  of  the  same  shade  of  colour  by  means 
of  cross-fertilisation  is  necessary;  the  latter 
adds  enormously  to  the  vigour  of  the  plants, 
and  strangers  are  often  surprised  to  see  my 
seedlings  growing  to  a  height  of  12  feet  or 
more.  Some  varieties  degenerate  much  more 
rapidly  than  others  ;  Scarlet  Gem,  for  instance, 
reverted  to  Cocoinea  within  two  years  and  was 
superseded  by  Queen  Alexandra  ;  Navy  Blue  ran 
away  just  as  rapidly  to  a  muddy  purple  colour, 
though  one  or  two  knowing  growers  were  able  by 
careful  selection  to  keep  it  true,  and  it  has  now 
been  reissued  under  the  name  of  Lord  Nelson. 

The  usual  time  required  for  fixing  by  the  old- 
fashioned  method  was  six  years,  though  many 
varieties  were  distributed  in  a  much  shorter 
time  ;  these  were,  no  doubt,  recessives  and  fixed 
from  the  first.  Some  varieties  in  particular  are 
difficult  to  fix,  and  of  a  few  it  may  be  said  that 
they  never  can  be  fixed.  Lady  Grizel  Hamilton, 
from  which  Sadie  Burpee  could  not  be  eliminated, 
is  one  instance,  and  Fascination,  which  always 
produced  Mrs.  Gladstone  and  Kmily  Eokford  (pro- 
bably its  parents,  as  it  was  a  blend  of  the  two  in 


As  an  instance  of  sporting  in  Sweet  Peas,  the 
old-time  Bronze  Prince  occasionally  appeared 
among  the  newer  varieties  ;  but  this  would  be 
more  correctly  described  as  atavism,  or  reversion 
to  a  previous  type.  My  brother  and  I  used  to  pay 
a  visit  to  Wem  at  least  once  every  summer  and 
always  enjoyed  a  chat  with  Henry  Eckford  among 
bis  Sweet  Peas.  What  a  grand  old  enthusiast  he 
was  !  How  he  loved  his  flowers  and  delighted  in 
showing  visitors  round  his  Sweet  Pea  grounds, 
pointing  out  any  novelty  of  special  merit  I  ' '  Just 
the  colour  of  a  soldier's  coat,"  as  he  said  of 
Cocoinea  when  it  first  made  its  appearance. 

Alder sey  Hall,  Cheater.       Hugh  Aldeksey. 

GATHERING  SWEET  PEAS  FOR 
EXHIBITION. 

The  accompanying  illustration  is  from  a  photo- 
graph sent  to  us  by  Mr.  W.  R.  Chaplin,  Joyning's 
Nursery,  Waltham  Cross,  and  serves  to  show  the 
extent  to  which  the  Sweet  Pea  is  now  grown  for 
exhibition  purposes.  It  represents  a  portion  of 
the  crop  only,  and,  as  will  be  seen,  the  plants 
are  flowering  very  freely  indeed. 


80 


THE     OARDEN. 


(Feiikuary  13,  1909. 


QARDENING      FOR      'BEGINNERS, 


GARDKN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FRUIT  GARDEN.— The  present  is  the 
best  time  of  the  whole  3'ear  for 
spraying  hardy  fruit  trees  with  the 
excellent  caustic  winter  wash,  as  the 
buds  have  not  developed  enough  to 
be  injured,  while  some  forms  of  insect- 
life  will  be  getting  somewhat  active.  This  wash 
is  made  as  follows  :  Half  a  pound  of  caustic 
soda  (Greenbank's 
98  per  cent.),  half 
a  pound  of  com- 
mercial potash  or 
pearlash,  and  half 
a  pound  of  treacle 
or  soft  soap  dis- 
solved in  five 
gallons  of  water. 
The  treacle  or  soft 
soap  is  to  make 
the  wash  adhere 
to  the  branches 
better.  The  solu- 
tioD  must  be 
sprayed  on  all 
parts  of  the  tree, 
just  coating  them 
with  the  finest 
posiible  spray.  A 
knapsack  sprayer 
is  the  best  tool ; 
but  failing  this,  a 
syringe  fitted  with 
a  special  spraying 
nozzle  answers 
very  well.  The 
operator  must 
wear  old  clothes 
and  gloves,  the 
latter  preferably  of 
rubber,  and  stand 
to  the  windward 
side  of  the  tree,  as 
the  wash  has  a 
burning  effect  on 
the  hands  and 
clothes.  Besides  destroying  animal-life,  this 
solution  kills  all  lichen,  moss  and  other  injurious 
vegetable  .substances  with  which  it  comes  into 
contact.  Vines  that  are  now  being  started 
into  growth  will  need  a  temperature  ranging 
from  ."lO"  to  ."i.")"  or  more  with  sun -heat, 
gradually  increasing  this  as  growth  advances. 
Syringe  the  rods  morning  and  afternoon  with 
tepid  water,  and  shut  up  the  house  early  in  the 
afternoon. 

Flmoer  Garden. — Where  Sweet  Peas  are  to  be 
raised  under  glass,  no  time  must  be  lost  in  sowing 
the  seeds.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  sow  five  in  a 
.5-inoh  pot,  placing  them  at  regular  intervals 
round  the  edge.  The  pots  must  be  well  drained 
and  the  soil  of  an  open,  friable  character.  The 
pots  should  be  stood  in  a  cold  frame  near  the 
glass,  or,  failing  this,  on  a  shelf  in  a  cool  green- 
house, bearing  in  mind  that  the  young  plants  will 
need  perfectly  hardy  treatment  from  the  outset. 
Sowing  outdoors  may  well  be  deferred  until  the 
end  of  the  month  or  early  in  March.  Any  altera- 
tions that  were  not  carried  out  in  the  herbaceous 
border  in  November  or  December  last  maj'  now 
be  finished.  Plants  lifted,  divided  and  replanted 
at  this  season  usually  do  well  and  give  an  excel- 
lent display  of  flowers  the  following  summer. 
Of  course,  this  work  must  not  be  touched  if  the 
ground  is  frozen.  Providing  all  the  wheeling  of 
manure  and  soil  is  finished  for  the  season,  gravel 
paths  may  now  be  turned  over  1  inch  or  2  inches 
deep  with  a  fork,  any  hollows  filled  up  and  the 


I.— A  TVrlOAL  SHIJOI  UF  RED  OR 
WHITE  CURRANT.  NOTE  THE 
WEAKLY  GROWTH  To  BE  CUT 
OUT  AND  THE  TWO  LEADING 
SHOOTS  TO   BK   CUT   BACK. 


whole  well  rolled  down  again.    This  will  give  the 
walks   a   bright   and   clean   appearance   for   the 


summer. 


Greenhouse. — This  will  now  be  bright  with 
forced  bulbs,  such  as  Daftbdils,  Hyacinths  and 
Tulips,  and  the  more  air  these  have  the  longer  , 
will  the  flowers  last.  Attention  must  be  given 
to  watering,  as  these  plants,  especially  the  ■ 
DaSbdils,  need  generous  supplies  during  their  j 
growing  and  flowering  periods.  ,\s  the  plants  go  i 
out  of  flower  they  may  be  stood  in  cold  frames  I 
and  given  attention  until  the  foliage  naturally 
dies  down,  after  which  they  may  be  planted  in 
shrubberies  or  borders  where  they  can  remain 
undisturbed  for  several  years.  Now  is  a  good 
time  to  repot  such  foliage  plants  as  Dracienas 
and  Palms.  Use  soil  composed  of  good  fibrous 
loam  two  parts,  thoroughly  rotted  manure  one 
part,  with  a  little  coarse  sand  added.  Where 
the  old  soil  is  at  all  sour,  the  greater  part  of  it 
should  be  cleared  away  from  the  roots  with  a 
pointed  stick,  and  this  will  usually  allow  the 
plants  to  go  back  into  pots  of  the  same  size  as 
those  they  previously  occupied.  Any  thick 
roots,  or  toes,  as  they  are  commonly  called,  found 
on  the  Dracaenas  may  be  removed.  If  potted 
into  very  light,  well-drained  soil,  or,  better  still, 
laid  in  Cocoanut  fibre  and  kept  warm,  they  will 
soon  form  young  plants  for  growing  on  into 
specimens. 

Vegetahl"    Garden. — Where   an    early   crop   of 
wrinkled  Peas  is  desired,  it  may  be  worth  while 
to  chance  a  sowing  now,  although  a  week  or  ten 
days  later  will  be  better,  and  even  this  will  be 
quite  early  enough  except  on  soils  of  a  porous 
character.     It  is   a   good   plan   with   this   early 
sowing  to  take  out  a  trench  about  3  inches  deep, 
till  in  with  '2  inches  of  prepared  light  soil,  such  as  [ 
old  potting  compost  well  sifted,  and  then  sow  the 
seeds  in  This.     Instead  of  sowing  at   the  usual 
depth  of  '2  inches,  try  1  inch  for  this  early  crop  ; 
if  placed  deeper  and  the  weather  subsequently  is 
cold   and   wet   the   seeds   will   most   likely   rot. 
William  the  First  is  still  a  good  dwarf  variety  for 
early  work,  but    those  who   desire   a  new   sort 
cannot  do  better  than  try  Webb's  Surprise  ;    it 
is  of  dwarf  habit,  an  enormous  cropper  and  the  '< 
flavour  is  excellent.     Transplant  Rhubarb  where  i 
it  is  desired  to  make  new   beds.     The  soil  must 
have  been  previously  trenched  to  a  depth  of  ar, 
least  18  inches  and  heavily  manured.     See  that 
each  plant  possesses  at  least  one 
good  crown  and  root.     Parsnips 
may  be  sown  now  for  a  general 
crop.      Sow    in     shallow    drills 
1   foot  apart  and  thin  the  plants 
to  SI  inches  asunder  in  the  rows. 
Student  and  Hollow  Crown  are 
two  good   sorts  to  grow.     It  is 
essential  that   the  soil   be  well 
broken  up  before  sowing,  other- 
wise the  roots  will  grow  crooked 
and  forked.     The  main  sowing 
of  Longpod  Broad  Beans  should 
be  put  in  now  at  the  distances 
advised    In    the     calendar    for 
January  30.  H.  • 


bushes  in  no  half-hearted  fashion.  All  too  often 
when  raising  a  stock  of  young  bushes  their  treat- 
ment following  the  first  pruning  is  of  a  most 
unsatisfactory  character.  In  consequence  of  this, 
the  foundation  of  good  bushes  is  not  well  and 
truly  laid,  and  their  subseijuent  development  is 
never  very  satisfactory. 

It  may  be  well  at  this  point  to  mention 
the  fact  that  the  better  prunings,  i.e.,  growths 
that  are  clean  and  straight  and  about  1  foot  in 
length,  may  be  used  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
a  new  stock.  Before  inserting  the  cuttings  in 
prepared  (juarters  outdoors,  all  except  about  four 
of  the  uppermost  buds  should  be  removed  and 
the  cuttings  inserted  in  the  ground  to  nearly  half 
their  depth.  In  a  short  time  most  of  the 
cuttings  will  have  rooted,  and  before  the  summer 
is  over  each  one  will  have  developed  three  or 
four  shoots  of  vigorous  growth  from  the  buds 
that  were  retained  at  the  time  of  propagation. 
These  growths  should  be  pruned  in  the  succeed- 
ing winter  by  cutting  them  back  to  within  four 
or  five  buds  of  their  base,  and  in  this  way  the 
foundation  of  a  good  bush  may  be  satisfactorily 
laid. 

As  a  result  of  this  treatment  the  young  bushes 
will  emit  several  additional  growths  in  the 
succeeding  spring,  and  before  the  summer  is 
past  a  promising  Red  or  White  Currant  bush 
may  be  actually  brought  into  effect.  Pruning  of 
young  trees  of  this  description  needs  to  be  very 
carefully  done  in  the  winter  following.  The 
more  prominent  leading  shoots  to  the  number 
of  six  to  eight  should  be  retained,  and  these  cut 
bick  so  as  to  leave  seven  or  eight  good  buds  on 
each.  All  other  shoots,  which  will  be  mostly  of 
a  weak  kind  or  disposed  to  grow  inside  the  bush, 
should  be  out  out  by  spurring  them  back  close  to 
the  main  stems  that  are  retained.  This  process 
should  be  continued  in  each  successive  year, 
taking  care  at  all  times  to  cut  out  weakly 
growths  and  those  of  an  unruly  kind,  so  that 
bushes  of  an  open  character  may  be  developed. 
Each  bush  should  carry  a  dozen  or  more  leading 
shoots,  and  these  disposed  so  that  their  extension 
is  made  quite  easy,  and  a  tree  of  even  contour 
brought  into  being. 

With  the  object  of  showing  how  the  pruning 
of  established  bushes  of  Red  and  White  Currants 
should  be  done,  we  think  the  matter  may  bo 
simplified  by  first  of  all  taking  a  typical  growth. 
Fig.  1  represents  a  simple  growth  of  the 
character  referred  to,  and  has  been  cut  out  of  a 


PRUNING  RED  AND 
WHITE  CURRANTS. 
In  the  subjoined  remarks  we 
propose  to  deal  with  the  question 
of  pruning  bush  specimens,  as 
shown  in  the  illustrations.  First 
of  all,  however,  we  wish  to 
emphasise  the  importance  of 
pruning  Red  and  White  Currant 


-A   SERIES   OF  TVPIUAL  SHOOTS  OF  THESKBDilcCRBANT   AFTER 
THE   PRUNING   HAS  BEEN  COMPLETED. 


February  13,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


81 


3. — A   COMPARATIVELY    YOUNG    BDSH    THAT    HAS 
BEEN  NEGLECTED  IN   REGARD   TO   PRUNING. 

bush  for  the  express  purpose  of  illustrating  these 
notes.  The  reader  will  notice  that  there  are  two 
vigorous  shoots  and  one  weakly  one.  These 
shoots  were  developed  in  the  course  of  last 
summer  and  have  now  to  be  winter  pruned. 
First  of  all,  the  weak  growth  is  out  back  to  one 
or  two  buds,  and  the  two  strong  leaders  shortened 
back  to  about  iive  buds.  This  rule  should  be 
observed  right  throughout  the  pruning,  at  all 
times,  however,  keeping  in  mind  the  necessity  of 
developing  a  shapely  bush.  To  achieve  the  latter 
purpose  it  may  be  necessary  in  some  instances 
to  reduce  some  of  the  leading  growths  to  one 
shoot  on  each  ;  it  is  not  always  possible  to 
retain  fork-like  branches  on  these  bushes. 
Fig.  2  represents  a  trio  of  shoots  of  Red  and 
White  Currants  after  they  have  been  pruned. 
The  strongest  shoots  are  pruned  back  rather 
less  hard  than  the  weaker  ones,  and  this  is  to 
the  advantage  of  the  latter,  as  they  break  away 
into  growth  subsequently  with  more  vigour. 
That  the  reader  may  be  able  to  appreciate  the 
effect  of  this  method  of  pruning  a  Red  or  White 
Currant  bush,  it  has  been  deemed  wise  to 
represent  a  complete  specimen  before  and  after 
pruning. 

Fig.  3  aptly  portrays  a  comparativoly  yr>ung 
bush  that  has  been  somewhat  neglected.  This 
is  some  five  or  six  years  old,  and  has  never  been 
pruned  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  Had  the 
pruning  been  done  by  the  proper  method,  as  we 
have  endeavoured  to  show  in  these  notes,  the 
growths  would  have  been  less  long  and  a  more 
compact  and  sturdy  bush  would  have  been  the 
result.  Such  a  specimen  needs  really  drastic 
treatment  to  ensure  a  promising  future.  Weak 
and  useless  shoots  must  be  spurred  back  to  a 
single  bud.  Growths  that  have  grown  unruly 
and  got  somewhat  intertwined  must  also  be 
severed,  so  that  sun  and  air  may  get  in  among 
the  branches  in  the  succeeding  growing  season. 
The  shape  of  the  bush  should  also  be  considered, 
leaving  the  stout  growths  equidistant  as  much 
as  possible.  Fig.  4  represents  the  same  bush  as 
seen  in  Fig.  3,  after  the  pruning  operation  has 
been  completed.  A  careful  observation  will 
reveal  what  a  lot  of  useless  growth  has  been 
cut  out.  1).  B.  C. 


THE     PROPER     DISTANCE    APART     TO 

SOW    OR    PLANT     VEGETABLES. 
The    overcrowding  of   crops  does  not  result  in 
more  produce  being  obtained  from  a  given  space. 


The  crops  that  result  are  lighter  and  of  inferior 
quality,  owing  to  the  overcrowding.  It  is  a 
waste  of  valuable  space  to  put  in  seeds  and 
plants  too  far  apart ;  there  is  a  happy  medium, 
which  will  be  found  in  the  following  table  : 


Nnm 

Distance 

apart. 

Roivs. 

Tubers. 

Rows. 

Plants 

Artichokes,  Globe 





4ft. 

,,         Jerusalem     2ft. 

16in. 



Potatoes,  early 

.    isin. 

12in. 





late 

.    22in. 

I41n. 
Seeds. 

— 

— 

Asparagus 

1ft. 

Sin. 

1ft. 



Beaua,  Broad  . . 

IJft. 

6in. 





„      Dwarf  . . 

.     16in. 

4in. 





,,      Runnner 

6ft. 

6in. 





Beetroot 

.    16in. 

3in. 





Borecole 

— 



2ft. 

leio. 

Brocoli  . . 





2ft. 

ISin. 

Brussels  Sprouts 

— 

— 

2ft. 

20in. 

Cabbages 

— 

— 

20in. 

ISin. 

Carrots  . . 

.     12in. 

sow  thinly 



Cauliflowers 





22in. 

ISin. 

Celeiy    . . 





3ft. 

9in. 

Cucumbers,  Ri  l^'e 





2ft. 

24in. 

Leeks     . . 

— 



2Sft. 

12in. 

Lettuce,  Cabbage 

— 

— 

1ft. 

lOin. 

Cos    . . 

— 



1ft. 

12iii. 

Onions  . . 

.     ]2in. 

sow  thinly 

14in. 

Mn. 

Parsnips 

.    ISin. 

2in. 



Peas,  dwarf 

3Jft. 

2in. 





,,     tall 

5Jft. 

2in. 





Rhubarb 

— 

— 

4ft. 

3ft. 

.Savoys    . . 





20in. 

ISin. 

.Seakale  . . 

— 

— 

4tt. 

2ift. 

.Spinach 

3ft. 

2in. 

Tomatoes 

— 



4ft. 

ISin. 

Turnips 

.    lUin. 

sow  thinly 

Vegetable  Marrows 

1ft. 

— 

4fl:. 

3ft. 

In  the  case  of  Vegetable  Marrows  and 
Cucumbers,  the  plants  in  the  rows  must  be 
trained  to  right  and  left  alternately  ;  then  they 
will  cover  the  surface  of  the  soil  evenly.  As  a 
general  rule,  the  first  or  early  crops  may  be 
grown  a  little  closer  together  than  the  later 
crops,  because  the  varieties  of  the  different 
kinds  grown  are  naturally  smaller  than  those  for 
main  crops.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Manuring  the  Lawn. — Lawns  are  not  fed  as 
much  as  they  ought  to  be.  It  is  impossible  for 
them  to  continue  to  be  satisfactory  if  manures 
are  withheld  year  after  year.  The  owner  must 
not,  however,  go  to  extremes  and  simply  smother 
the  grass  with  rotted  dung  for  a  long  period  ;  if 
he  does,  a  great  amount  of  harm  will  result,  the 
grass  being  quite  killed  in  places.  A  case  of  this 
kind  came  under  my  notice  recently.  The  lawn 
— situated  in  a  town — was  not  in  good  condition 
and  very  badly  needed  renovating,  but  the  owner 
was  too  kind  to  it,  eventually,  as  I  will  show. 
He  put  on  a  good  dressing  of  well-rotted  manure, 
and  this  was,  in  due  course,  practically  washed 
in  ;  this  did  not  satisfy  him,  so  he  put  on  a  still 
heavier  coating  of  manure  and  allowed  it  to 
remain  in  large  lumps  on  the  grass  for  several 
weeks.  Result — one-third  of  the  grass  of  the 
entire  lawn  was  killed  and  the  remainder  much 
injured.  Since  then  the  lawn  in  question  has 
been  relaid.  It  is  not  the  quantity  of  manure 
that  has  the  best  effect,  but  the  quality  and  the 
way  in  which  it  is  applied.  Undoubtedly,  the 
best  time  to  apply  organic  manure  is  in  the 
autumn,  but  where  this  has  not  been  done  there 
should  be  no  hesitation  as  regards  applying 
some  now.  The  manure  must  be  well  rotted, 
spread  evenly  and  somewhat  thinly  on  the  grass, 
and  immediately  afterwards  thoroughly  broken 
up.  Do  not  allow  it  to  lie  undisturbed  for  more 
than  a  few  days,  but  with  the  aid  of  a  besom 
brush  it  to  and  fro  and  get  it  well  worked 
into  the  surface  as  soon  as  possible.  Where 
gritty  soil  can  be  procured,  a  nice  dressing  of 
it  would  also  be  highly  beneficial  to  the  lawn ; 
but  all  such  soil  must  be  free  from  the  seeds  of 
weeds. 

Roots  in  the  Stores. — The  owner  of  a  town 
garden  generally  takes  much  pride  in  growing 
Dahlias,  (iladioli  and  tuberous  Begonias.     These 


plants  make  a  very  fine  show  in  the  borders 
during  the  summer  months.  Examine  them  at 
once,  and  if  any  are  found  to  be  decaying  through 
being  in  contact  with  damp  soil,  remove  them 
and  put  some  dust-dry  soil  round  them  again. 
Perhaps  a  few  roots  may  be  stored  in  a  warm 
place,  with  the  result  that  some  new  growth  has 
commenced  prematurely  ;  if  this  is  so  remove 
them  to  a  safe  position,  but  a  cooler  one,  and 
where  light  will  reach  them,  then  the  new  shoots 
will  continue  to  grow  very  slowly,  but  they  will 
be  sturdy. 

Hollyhocks  in  Borders.  —  The  dreaded 
disease  which  attacks  these  plants  causes  dismay 
in  the  hearts  of  amateurs,  who  are,  generally, 
extremely  fond  of  the  plants  and  their  noble 
spikes  of  flowers.  Seedlings  escape  the  disease 
more  than  much-propagated  plants  do,  and  the 
former  grow  stronger  and  are  very  suitable  for 
the  embellishment  of  borders  in  town  gardens. 
The  plants  are  fairly  hardy  and  withstand  the 
weather  during  an  ordinary  winter  without  any 
protection.  They  thrive  in  a  rich  soil,  and 
any  old  plants  now  growing  in  the  open 
borders  would  be  much  benefited  b}'  the 
application  of  a  top-dressing  of  fibrous  loam  and 
rotted  manure  mixed.  Before  putting  on  the 
material,  however,  carefully  remove  the  old 
surface  soil  and  any  old  seared  leaves  from  the 
plants  also. 

Sweet  Peas. — At  a  very  small  cost,  both  as 
regards  the  seeds  and  the  plants  and  the  labour 
necessary  for  their  growth,  a  very  fine  display  of 
bloom  may  be  obtained  from  May  to  October 
from  a  few  clumps,  or  a  single  row  of  Sweet 
Peas.  Nearly  everybody  loves  the  Sweet  Pea, 
and  everyone  who  can  desires  to  grow  the  flowers. 
It  is  the  most  useful  and  most  popular  of  all 
annuals,  and  is  very  suitable  for  town  gardens  ; 
but  to  be  successful  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
plants  a  deep-tilled  soil  is  essential.     Both  rotted 


4. — the    same    bush    as    shown    in    fig.    3 
after  pruning  has  beex  done. 

manure  and  artificials  must  be  used.  Deeply 
trench  the  soil  at  once  and  put  in  the  organic 
manure.  The  seeds  must  be  sown  a  few  weeks 
hence  in  open  borders  ;  but  some  may  be  sown 
in  3J-inch  pots  at  once  in  an  ordinary  frame  or 
box  covered  with  glass.  Put  out  the  resultant 
plants  in  April  in  clumps  or,  rows,  but  prepare 
the  ground  for  them  now.  They  form  a  neat 
background  to  a  border  of  herbaceous  plants,  or 
one  of  annuals,  and  also  form  an  excellent  screen 
to  hide  ugly  places.  Avon. 


82 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[February  13,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Department. 

VINES. — Aa  the  days  lengthen  and  the 
sun  becomes  more  powerful  Vines 
will  make  rapid  progress.  Keep 
pace  with  disbudding,  tying  down 
the  laterals  and  stopping  the  shoots 
at  about  two  joints  above  the 
bunches.  Those  which  are  in  bloom  will  require 
a  nice  buoyant  and  rather  drier  atmosphere. 
Tap  the  trellises  two  or  three  times  daily  to 
distribute  the  pollen  so  as  to  get  a  good  set  of 
berries.  At  this  stage  a  night  temperature  of 
0.5°  should  be  maintained,  with  a  rise  of  10°  by 
day  and  a  little  more  if  the  sun  is  bright  and 
warm.  Admit  on  all  favourable  occasions  a 
little  air,  but  avoid  by  all  means  a  cutting 
draught  or  a  sharp  fall  in  the  temperature. 
Earlier  and  later  houses  should  be  damped  down 
more  or  less  with  tepid  water.  Surface  damping 
requires  judgment  and  should  be  regulated 
according  to  the  brightness  and  dulness  of  the 
weather. 

Young  Viiiea. — As  soon  as  these  have  well 
rooted  they  should  be  repotted,  using  clean,  dry 
and  warm  ."i-inch  pots,  and  the  soil  of  the  same 
temperature  as  that  in  which  the  Vines  are 
growing.  When  repotting  be  very  careful  not 
to  break  any  of  the  tender  roots,  and  do  not  at 
this  stage  pot  too  firmly.  Take  care  not  to  over- 
water  for  some  time,  amd  when  any  is  applied 
give  sufKoient  to  wet  the  whole  of  the  soil. 
Keep  them  growing  on  in  a  nice  warm  moist 
position.  If  given  good  treatment  they  should 
make  excellent  specimens  for  planting  out  in 
April  or  early  in  May. 

Peaches. — When  starting  later  houses  do  not 
employ  too  much  fire-heat.  If  the  night  tempera- 
ture stands  at  4.5°  to  50°  for  a  time  this  will  be 
ample,  the  day  temperature  rising  to  55°  or  60°. 
Syringe  the  trees  during  bright  weather  twice 
daily  and  less  in  dull  weather.  I  like  the  buds 
to  get  fairly  dry  by  the  evening.  Those  more 
advanced  should  be  kept  growing  steadily,  so 
that  the  wood  does  not  get  too  much  in  front  of 
the  blooms  or  tiny  fruits.  Admit  air  more  or 
less  at  all  times  to  keep  the  growth  sturdy  and 
hard. 

Melons. — Young  plants  rai.^ed  from  seed  early 
in  January  may  require  a  trifle  larger  pot.  To 
eniourage  a  sturdy  free  growth  let  the  night 
temperature  range  from  65°  to  70°  and  keep  the 
plants  in  a  light  position  near  the  glass.  Plants 
raised  from  seed  sown  now  will  grow  awaj'  more 
freely  and  soon  be  fit  to  put  out. 

Plant  Department. 
Femx. — A  thorough  inspection  ought  now  to 
be  made  of  all  kinds  of  Ferns,  and  those  requiring 
repotting  may  be  taken  in  hand.  The  new  soil 
should  be  sweet  and  mixed  to  suit  the  difierent 
kinds.  For  Adiantums  and  several  others,  good 
sandy  loam,  peat,  charcoal  and  sharp  sand  will 
suffice.  Use  the  soil  in  a  warm  state,  especially 
for  the  more  delicate  varieties,  and  pot 
moderately  firm.  Be  careful  with  the  water  for 
some  time. 

Eucharis  amazonica. — These  wil  grow  and 
flower  freely  in  suitable-sized  pots  without  any 
disturbing  of  the  roots  for  some  years  if  given 
attention  with  regard  to  feeding  ;  but  when  the 
bulbs  through  some  cause  or  other  have  got  into 
a  rather  bad  state,  they  should  be  shaken  out 
and  potted  in  fresh  sweet  soil.  The  pots  should 
be  well  drained  and  not  larger  than  12  inches 
in  diameter,  or  less,  according  to  the  number 
of  bulbs  to  be  planted  in  each.  Do  not  over- 
water  newly-planted  bulbs,  and  keep  them  in  a 
warm  temperature.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wroiham  Park  Oardeiis,  Barnel. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Plants  for  Summer  Beddinc;. 

Geraniums. — Cuttings  of  these  inserted  in 
pots  or  boxes  of  soil  last  autumn  and  kept  dry 
for  some  time  past  will  now  require  more 
generous  treatment  to  induce  growth,  par- 
ticularly so  if  from  any  cause  the  number  is  below 
the  estimated  requirements  and  spring  propaga- 
tion has  consequently  to  be  resorted  to.  Crevices 
which,  owing  to  shrinkage  of  the  soil,  are  observ- 
able should  be  filled  with  fresh  material  and 
pressed  firm,  after  which  water  may  be  applied 
on  a  bright,  warm  day,  and  the  same  repeated  at 
intervals  until  the  whole  rooting  medium  is 
moistened.  If  cuttings  are  wanted,  slight  warmth 
and  occasional  sprinklings  with  tepid  water  may 
be  applied  ;  but  if  otherwise,  cool  treatment  is 
preferable. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 

Lobelias,  Afferalums,  Petunias  and  a  host  of 
others  used  for  the  embellishment  of  the  flower 
garden  may  now  be  sown,  using  rich,  finely- 
sifted  soil  and  covering  the  seeds,  according  to 
their  size,  as  previously  directed.  If  kept  dark, 
seeds  germinate  more  freely  ;  but  care  must  be 
taken  that  the  coverings  are  removed  as  soon  as 
this  takes  place,  or  weakness  of  the  growth  will 
ensue. 

East  Lothian  Stocks.  —  Few  Stocks  raised 
annually  are  more  serviceable  than  these,  and 
if  seed  is  sown  about  this  time,  good  plants  may 
be  raised  by  May.  Sown  in  boxes,  there  is  less 
trouble  with  damp  than  by  any  other  method. 
Scatter  the  seeds  evenly  and  thinly,  and  cover 
them  with  half  an  inch  of  soil.  (Hve  a  position, 
if  possible,  where  drying  atmospheric  influences 
are  not  felt,  to  obviate  the  necessity  for  frequent 
waterings.  Care  should  be  taken  to  obtain  seed 
from  a  good  source,  for  although  all  the  flowers 
may  not  be  double  even  then,  a  large  percentage 
will  be  so. 

Flower  Garden. 

Street  Peas. — Those  sown  in  pots  some  weeks 
ago  will  now  be  starting  into  free  growth.  If 
for  planting  outside,  avoid  high  temperatures 
and  keep  the  plants  near  the  glass  to  ensure 
robustness.  A  few  twigs  will  give  the  necessary 
support,  if  such  is  needed.  Successional  lots  for 
flowering  in  .Tuly  and  onwards  may  now  be  sown, 
and  if  this  is  done  in  pots  of  soil,  more  satis- 
factory results  and,  as  it  often  proves,  less  trouble 
are  experienced  than  by  sowing  in  the  open. 
Five-inch  pots  are  very  suitable,  and  half-a  dozen 
seeds  deposited  in  each  are  ample.  Should  all 
grow,  thinning  may  be  carried  out  at  the  dis- 
cretion of  the  cultivator. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Ptas  and  Beans. — Where  space  and  conveni- 
ence exist  for  the  culture  of  these  under  glass, 
the  produce  is  sure  to  meet  with  appreciation  ; 
but  if  the  reverse,  the  space  might  be  more 
profitably  occupied  with  other  less  fastidious 
subjects.  The  first  named  especially  require 
light,  air  and  warmth  in  full  degree  to  do  them 
justice  ;  the  second,  though  more  amenable  to 
pot  culture,  are  impatient  of  overcrowding  and 
must  have  high  temperatures,  also  a  position  well 
exposed  to  the  light,  to  give  satisfactory  returns. 
For  these  pots  7  inches  in  diameter  are  suitable, 
which,  being  drained  and  three-parts  filled  with 
a  rich  soil,  may  have  from  six  to  nine  Beans 
placed  1  inch  below  the  surface.  These  quickly 
respond  to  warmth  and  moisture,  and  from  the 
time  the  first  leaves  appear  should  have  ample 
space  for  development.  The  trailing  type  of 
Dwarf  Bean  is  well  adapted  for  planting  out  in 
a  well-heated  structure.  If  the  shoots  are  trained 
to  strings  or  wires  near  the  roof,  they  will  be 
productive  for  a  long  season. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Oallotoay  House,  Garlieeton,  Wigtoimishire. 


I 


SWEET    PEA    AIMS. 

N  the  "  Sweet  Pea  Annual "  for  1908  Mr. 
W.  P.  Wright  contributed  an  important 
paper  entitled  "Breakers  Ahead."  In  it 
he  likened  our  flower  to  a  yacht  and  the 
reefs  which  must  be  avoided  to  "  mixed 
stocks"  and  "streak."  Continuing  the 
metaphor,  I  now  ask  what  the  good  yacht  Sweet 
Pea  will  be  like  whtn  her  captain  (the  National 
Sweet  Pea  Society)  has  got  her  to  hia  liking ''.  At 
Port  Eckford  she  has  been  entirely  overhauled 
and  repainted  ;  at  Port  Cole  she  has  been  fitted 
with  a  new  type  of  sail  and  her  hull  generally 
strengthened  ;  to  Port  Unwin  she  has  been  for 
this,  to  Port  Bolton  for  that  and  to  Port  Hemus 
for  the  other.  She  is  all  the  time  calling  some- 
where. What  will  she  be  like  when  perfection 
is  reached,  and  will  she  be  turned  out  a  racer  or 
a  pleasure  boat?  Dropping  metaphor,  I  would 
enquire  what  it  is  that  hybridisers  are  striving 
for  to-day  ?  To  produce  a  spike  of  flowers  thac 
will  outdistance  every  competitor  in  the  show  7 
To  give  our  gardens  a  strong,  beautiful  and 
floriferous  plant '!  To  introduce  anything  strange 
and  new  that  may  attract  the  unwary  ?  The 
first  two  are  legitimate  aspirations  ;  the  last  is 
not.     I  will  deal  with  the  show  ideal  first. 

Although  I  do  not  remember  to  have  seen  the 
Sweet  Pea  called  a  florist's  flower,  it  is  one  to  all 
intents,  inasmuch  as  with  many  the  exhibition 
table  is  its  ultimate  destination.  Take  almost  any 
of  the  little  Sweet  Pea  brochures,  such  as  "Ques- 
tions and  Answers  on  Sweet  Peas,"  by  H.  J. 
Wright;  "Sweet  Pea  Growing,"  by  Thomas 
Jones  ;  or  "  How  to  (4row  >Sweet  Peas,"  by  T. 
Stevenson  ;  in  all  preparation  for  exhibition 
looms  large.  Following,  perhaps  unknowingly, 
in  the  footsteps  of  George  Glenny,  whose 
"  Properties  of  Flowers  and  Plants  "  must  have 
had  an  immense  influence  on  all  floriculture 
between  18.30  and  1860,  our  good  friend  Mr. 
Jones  has  stated  that  "  a  giant  flower  of  a 
perfect  form,  with  a  true  rich  colour,"  is  what 
he  terms  "  an  exhibition  flower."  But  what  is 
a  perfect  form '.'  The  prim,  stiff  flower  that  we 
find  in  coccinea,  or  the  ultra  waved  Miss  Frills? 
Personally  I  have  by  no  means  gone  entirelj' 
over  to  the  Spencer  type.  There  is  something 
in  Forbes  Watson's  plea  for  the  wild  types  in  hia 
"Flowers  and  Gardens — Notes  on  Plant  Beauty." 
We  must  be  sure  when  we  break  right  away 
from  them  that  we  have  got  something  more 
beautiful.  It  is  pleasant  to  think  that  Mr.  John 
Eckford,  although  he  was  the  proposer  of  the 
first-class  certificate  for  a  waved  Sweet  Pea  and 
who  offered  the  first  true  stock  of  a  waved 
variety  to  the  public,  is  not  inclined  to  give  up 
everything  to  them.  Speaking  for  myself,  I 
almost  alwajs  prefer  an  Unwin  to  a  Spencer 
type.  More  of  the  true  Pea  form  is  preserved 
and  the  flower  does  not  look  so  much  like  a  bit 
of  crumpled  paper. 

A  point  not  touched  upon  in  Mr.  Jones's 
definition  is  the  placing  of  the  flowers  on  the 
stem.  The  ideal  is  to  have  them  with  a  small 
space  between  them,  and  not  all  crowded  and 
overlapping  one  another  on  the  stem.  Anyone 
who  has  Messrs.  G.  Stark  and  Son  s  novelties 
list  for  19l'8  will  see  what  I  mean  in  the  con- 
trast between  Silver  Wings  and  Winnie  Jones. 

Then  to  come  to  the  stem,  I  cannot  say  that  I 
think  great,  thick,  squarish  rods  of  stems  very 
beautiful  when  associated  with  such  light- 
looking  flowers  as  Sweet  Peas.  We  want  a 
thinner  and  a  more  wiry  support  to  be  in 
character.  I  am  glad  to  know  that  this  point  is 
not  lost  sight  of. 

Last  of  all,  I  ask  those  in  authority  if  the 
present  method  of  exhibiting  in  masses  of  twenty 
sprays  in  a  vase  is  the  best  V  As  far  as  I  can 
find  out,  no  florist's  flower  has  ever  been  shown  in 
such  large  bunches.  The  beauty  of  the  indi- 
vidual flower  is  to  some  extent  lost  and  its  pose 
on  the  stem  hidden.  One  is  glad  to  read  in  the 
1908  schedule,  "  The  judges  will  be  instructed  to 


February  13,  1909. 


THE     GAEDEN. 


83 


regard  the  overcrowding  of  a  vase  as  a  fault.' 
Thia  i3  an  instrnotion  which  is  decidedly  in  the 
right  direction.  I  hope  it  will  lead  in  time  to 
such  an  arrangement  as  we  get  on  page  7  of  Mr. 
R.  Bolton's  1909  list  being  generally  adopted. 
His  vase  of  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes  which  is 
pictured  there  is  very  beautiful  indeed,  and  the 
individual  flowers  and  their  arrangement  on  the 
stems  can  be  distinctly  seen. 

The  garden  ideal  must  necessarily  be  to  a  large 
extent  the  same.  Here,  however,  certain  new 
factors  come  in.  We  want  a  robust,  healthy 
constitution  ;  we  want  varieties  that  keep  up  a 
long  succession  of  bloom  ;  we  want  kinds  that 
break  well  and  become  a  mass  of  flower  from  top 
to  bottom.  Again,  some  flowers  are  more 
susceptible  to  bad  and  cold  weather  than  others  ; 
all  orange  shades  more  or  less  burn  in  the  sun  ; 
certain  reds  and  others  change  to  colours  the 
reverse  of  beautiful.  Can  these  things  be 
changed  ?  There  are  many  worlds  for  the  pains- 
taking hybridist  to  conquer.  Countess  Spencer 
blood  has  given  vigour  and  robustness  to  its 
progeny  in  a  most  unexpected  way.  Who  knows 
but  that  there  are  more  surprises  in  store  and 
that  we  shall  one  day  have  plants  and  flowers 
now  considered  impossible.         Joseph  Jacob. 


SWEET    PEAS    AND    THEIR 
DECORATIVE     USES. 

IN  consequence  of  the  greater  beauty  of  the 
newer  varieties  of  Sweet  Peas  the  task  of 
the  floral  decorator  has  now  become  a 
far  more  simple  matter  than  formerly. 
Varieties  that  have  been  acquired  in 
recent  years  are  capable  of  satisfying  the 
taste  of  the  most  fastidious. 

It  should  be  the  aim  of  those  responsible  for 
indoor  decorations  to  carry  out  their  colour 
schemes  with  a  due  consideration  for  the  weather 
prevailing  at  the  time.  In  hot,  trying  weather 
we  should  use  Sweet  Peas  of  a  colour  that  would 
have  a  cooling  influence,  and  on  dull,  sunless 
days  utilise  flowers  of  the  warmest  and 
brightest  tones  of  colour.  As  the  Sweet  Pea 
blooms  are  produced  in  such  abundance,  and 
the  plants  benefit  by  a  frequent  and  systematic 
gathering  of  them,  it  should  be  a  very 
simple  matter  to  change  the  flowers  on  alternate 
days.  There  is  nothing  more  efiective  for  artificial 
light  than  the  best  pink-coloured  varieties.  A 
table  decoration  of  Countess  Spencer  Sweet  Pea 
is  indeed  "  a  thing  of  beauty,"  and  by  a  wise 
choice  of  varieties  a  blending  of  the  diflferent  tones 
of  pink  may  be  made  one  of  the  loveliest  decora- 
tions imaginable.  We  may  associate  blush,  soft 
pinkand  warm  pink  blooms  with  the  assurance  that 
the  result  will  be  distinctly  pretty  and  effective  ; 
and  now  that  there  are  so  many  intermediate 
tones  of  pink,  with  the  suspicion  of  salmon 
apparent  in  many  of  them,  most  lovely  creations 
are  possible. 

Some  of  the  bicolora  are  especially  attractive. 
A  table  decoration  of  Jeannie  Gordon  Sweet  Pea 
is  one  of  the  most  refined  that  it  is  possible  to 
conceive.  Striped,  flaked  and  fancies  each  make 
a  welcome  change  from  the  self-coloured  sorts 
and  should  be  brought  into  use  from  time  to  time. 
There  is  a  tendency  to  use  the  lavender-coloured 
varieties  such  as  Lady  Grizel  Hamilton  and  those 
of  kindred  tones  of  colour  under  artificial  light. 
In  daylight  this  colour  may  be  used  most  advan- 
tageously, but  for  use  at  night  it  is  altogether 
unsuitable. 

So  few  decorators  appear  to  understand  the 
proper  use  of  the  crimson  and  scarlet  Sweet  Peas. 
Almost  invariably  these  flowers  are  contrasted 
with  white  or  cream-coloured  blooms.  The  first 
contrast  is  somewhat  violent  in  its  character,  while 
the  latter  is  made  bearable  when  the  two  colours 
are  well  balanced  in  their  arrangement.  Why 
the  different  crimson  and  scarlet  blooms  are  not 
properly  blended  so  that  their  association  is  a 
pleasing  one  passes  the  writer's  comprehension. 


Some  of  the  most  glorious  decorations  imaginable 
may  be  created  by  the  use  of  Sweet  Peas  of  the 
colours  just  alluded  to,  and  those  who  will  be 
bold  enough  to  be  original  will  most  assuredly 
receive  the  recognition  they  deserve.  Readers 
who  will  take  the  trouble  to  make  a  careful 
observation  of  those  who  are  in  the  habit  of 
setting  up  decorative  exhibits  at  various  shows 
throughout  the  country  will  frequently  see  the 
exhibitors  shortening  the  flower-stalks  bearing 
the  spray  of  blooms.  I  have  seen  them  shortened 
to  quite  half  their  length,  in  consequence  of  which 
fact  the  exhibit  has  presented,  when  completed,  a 
dwarfed,  inartistic  appearance.  The  Sweet  Peas 
should  be  represented  as  they  are  grown,  so  that 
their  splendid  length  of  stem  may  give  that 
lightness  and  elegance  of  finish  which  is  most 
essential  in  all  artistic  creations. 

It  is  a  common  failing  to  place  too  many 
flowers  in  the  different  receptacles.  There  is  a 
general  tendency  to  add  flowers  to  the  different 
vases,  &-0. ,  if  they  can  be  accommodated  therein, 
and  the  value  of  each  individual  flower  in  the 
arrangement  seldom  receives  the  consideration 
that  is  imperative  if  the  result  is  to  be  really 
artistic.  Were  floral  decorators  to  observe  the 
rule  never  to  insert  a  flower  unless  it  is  to  render 
a  good  account  of  itself,  there  would  be  less 
crowding  together  of  flowers  than  is  now  the 
common  rule,  both  in  the  decorations  of  the  home 
and  the  exhibition.  For  numerous  uses  in  the 
house  we  make  frequent  use  of  small,  clear,  plain 
glasses,  not  more  than  4  inches  in  height.  These 
little  glasses  have  a  comparatively  long  neck  and 
a  wide  space  at  their  base  ;  in  this  way  it  is 
a  simple  matter  to  arrange  the  blooms  daintily 
and  effectively,  and  the  heavier  bottom  of  the  glass 
maintains  them  in  a  safe  position.  Small  bowls 
are  also  admirably  adapted  for  Sweet  Pea 
decorations,  and  if  a  "Corona"  brass  wirework 
adjuster  be  used  with  them  a  child  could  make 
quite  a  delightful  floral  picture. 

I  should  welcome  a  change  from  the  silvered  or 
bronze  rustic  ware  that  have  become  the  orthodox 
utensils  used  at  most  of  the  leading  shows.  They 
are  very  useful  for  those  who  are  not  adepts  at 
arranging  flowers,  but  they  are  very  formal  and 
wanting  in  artistic  worth.  For  use  in  association 
with  Sweet  Pea  blooms  the  haulm  of  the  plant 
is  most  suitable,  the  dainty  tendrils  adding  a 
charm  to  the  picture  that  nothing  else  is  capable 
of  doing.  Sprays  of  tanned  Hornbeam,  sprigs  of 
Oak,  Bramble  and  many  similar  subjects  may  be 
well  and  advantageously  associated  with  the  S  sveet 
Peas.  Plumes  of  neat,  fresh  grass  if  not  overdone 
also  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  display. 
Occasionally  a  few  pale  green  fronds  of  some  of 
the  different  forms  of  the  Asparagus  give  a 
pleasing  finish,  but  this  must  not  be  over- 
done. D.  B.  Crane. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE, 


Apples  in  Jasvasy. 
Mr.  Leonard  S.  Lush,  Maiden  Hill  House, 
Stonehouse,  Gloucestershire,  sends  fruits  gathered 
from  old  orchard  trees  of  some  of  the  most 
delicious  Apples  we  have  ever  seen.  They  com- 
prise Ashmead's  Kernel  (in  a  splendid  state  of 
preservation),  the  Brandy  Apple,  Wyken  Pip- 
pin and  Ribston  Pippin,  an  interesting  list  for 
January.  Mr.  Lush  also  sends  the  following  note  : 
"Your  '  Table  '  dealing  with  late  dessert  Apples 
is  most  interesting  to  the  writer,  and  greatly 
adds  to  the  perfection  of  your  excellent  weekly. 
I  am  sending  samples  of  the  best-flavoured  sorts 
(four)  grown  here,  on  the  Cotswold  slopes  over- 
looking the  Severn,  for  use  at  Christmas  and 
during  the  following  three  months.  The  late 
Pearmains  we  have,  but  I  am  sorry  I  do  not 
know  Adam's  Pearmain.  Sturmer  Pippin  I  hope 
will  make  a  good  finish  in  April,  possibly  later. 
You  will  note  the  absence  of  well-known  but  not 
well-grown  sorts  here.  A  friend  sends  me  Spice 
Apple  from  Colchester,  a  grand  sort  of  which  I 


must  learn  more.  1.  Ribston  Pippin.  —  This 
needs  no  comment  other  than  that  I  am  sorry 
we  have  eaten  the  best  sunny  ones.  2.  Wyken 
Pippin. — Good  flavour  and  grand  eye.  3.  Brandy 
Apple. — Eaten  and  highly  esteemed  by  our 
ancestors  and,  like  them,  unfortunately,  worn 
out.  4.  Ashmead's  Kernel. — This  for  flavour 
(now,  January)  challenges  the  world,  including 
Newtown  Pippin,  as  it  used  to  be  given  me,  and 
whioh  I  cannot  now  buy.  It  was  first  produced 
at  Ashmead  House,  in  the  centre  of  the  old  city 
of  Gloucester. "  

Chrysanthemums  and  Sweet  Peas  from 
Leicester. 

A  correspondent  signing  himself  "  L.  D." 
sends  us  from  Desford,  Leicester,  some  remark- 
ably good  white  Chrysanthemum  flowers  and  also 
excellent  and  fragrant  blooms  of  the  Telemy 
Sweet  Peas,  both  of  which  on  an  early  day  in 
February  were  most  welcome.  He  writes  :  "I 
am  sending  you  half-a-dozen  blooms  of  Chrysan- 
themum Winter  Queen,  as  I  think  for  the  time 
of  year  they  are  good.  I  have  always  found  this 
variety  reliable  and  easy  to  flower ;  but  it  is 
rather  a  tall  grower,  and  therefore  not  suitable 
for  a  small  greenhouse.  The  Sweet  Peas  enclosed 
are  the  Telemy  varieties.  The  seeds  were  sown 
in  the  Tomato  soil  on  the  benches  last  autumn. 
The  plants  have  given  us  a  few  blooms  all 
through  the  winter,  and  just  now  are  improving 
in  quality  and  colour.  The  ordinary  sorts  were 
sown  at  the  same  time,  but  are  only  18  inches 
high."  

Pbimdla  oeconica  from  Sheffield. 
Messrs.  William  Artindale  and  Son,  Norfolk 
Market  Hall,  Sheffield,  send  flowers  of  their 
beautiful  strain  of  this  popular  winter-flowering 
greenhouse  plant.  The  blooms  are  large  and 
borne  on  good  stems,  the  colours  embracing  all 
the  newer  shades  that  are  now  so  much  admired. 
Messrs.  Artindale  write  :  "  Eoelosed  please  find 
a  few  flowers  of  Primula  obeonica  grandiflora 
hybrida.  We  thought  these  might  interest  you. 
The  plants  have  flowered  continually  since  last 
September  and  are  very  free.  The  enclosed 
blooms  have  been  grown  in  quite  ordinary  soil 
and  in  a  temperature  of  about  50°.  They  are 
one  of  the  best  strains  and  best  winter- flowering 
plants  we  have  seen.  They  are  easily  grown 
from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  from  March  to 
.June. " 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
QueErtlons  and  AnsweFS.— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Qakder  helpful  to  aU  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  toill  make  a  special  feature  of  tl^ 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  AU  communica^ 
tions  sho^d  be  clearly  and  concisely  loritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THB 
Gakdbn,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  LoTidon, 
W.C.  Letters  on  btisiness  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHEB. 
The  Tuime  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  a/ny  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

OPi^anic  manuFe  fop  Sweet  Peas 
and  Roses  (N.  O.  <S.).— As  you  cannot 
obtain  such  organic  manures  as  stable  or  cow- 
manure  and  as  your  soil  is  undoubtedly  lacking 
in  humus,  you  cannot  do  better  than  use 
Wakeley's  Hop  Manure.  This  is  made  from 
spent  Hops,  and  consequently  contains  a  large 
amount  of  organic  matter.  We  thoroughly 
tested  it  last  year  for  Sweet  Peas,  culinary  Peas 
and  also  Rjses,  and  found  it  perfectly  satisfac- 
tory.    In  addition  to  being  valuable  for  digging 


84 


THE    GARDEN. 


[February  13,  1909. 


into  the  soil,  it  is  excellent  for  mulching  beds  or 
for  use  as  a  top-dressing.  It  is  manufactured  by 
Messrs.  Wakeley  Brothers  and  Co.,  Limited, 
Bankside,  London. 

Manure  for  Sweet  Peas  (Siveet 
Peas).— You  have  done  wrong  in  using  super- 
phosphate in  your  trenches  that  were  made  in 
November  last,  as  by  the  time  the  plants  are 
growing  freely  most  of  its  nourishment  will  have 
been  washed  away.  The  kainit  applied  then 
will  do  good.  We  use  Eckford's  and  Maekereth's 
special  Sweet  Pea  fertilisers  when  sowing  the 
seeds  or  putting  out  the  plants,  and  then  feed 
when  growth  is  active  with  superphosphate ; 
this  we  advise  you  to  do.  Even  if  you  use 
superphosphate  now,  much  of  its  goodness  will 
have  been  dissipated  before  the  plants  are  able 
to  make  use  of  it,  as  it  is  easily  soluble  in  water. 
We  presume  you  mean  the  larva;  of  the  Carrot 
fly  ;  the  best  thing  to  do  to  your  soil  is  to  trench 
it  up  as  roughly  as  possible  and  so  expose  it  to 
birds.  When  the  crop  is  growing  keep  the  soil 
well  over  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  and  in  May 
spray  with  gas  water,  one  gallon  mixed  with  six 
gallons  of  clear  water. 

Sternbepglas   lutea    and    mac- 

rantha  {N.  H.  A.).  — Stembergias  are 
troublesome  things  to  flower  in  our  climate,  and 
probably  your  bulbs  had  been  grown  in  a 
nursery ;  we  find  that  those  most  likely  to 
flower  are  imported  direct  the  same  autumn. 
They  should  also  have  been  planted  earlier,  as 
we  have  rarely  found  that  newly-imported  bulbs 
planted  early  in  August  did  not  bloom  that  year. 
To  induce  these  flowers  to  bloom,  they  must  have 
a  place  where  they  will  be  thoroughly  rested  in 
summer,  so  that  a  situation  below  a  south  wall 
or  in  front  of  a  greenhouse  should  be  selected. 
The  soil  should  have  some  old  mortar  rubbish  in 
it  also,  and  every  care  taken  to  give  the  bulbs  a 
prolonged  period  of  rest.  S.  macrantha  is  a 
little  freer  than  S.  lutea,  but  neither  is  very 
satisfactory  in  our  climate.  The  same  remark 
applies  to  Scilla  autumnalis  japonica,  which 
should  have  the  same  treatment  as  the  Stem- 
bergias. The  latter  are  such  fine  autumn  flowers 
that  they  are  worth  some  trouble  and  even 
frequent  disappointment  if  they  ean  be  induced 
to  flower  now  and  again. 

Hapdy  Cyclamens  not  staptingr  Into 
groivth  (.4sAX-)i<iifJf).— Your  Cyclamen  tubers  are  quite 
Iresh  and  sound  and  will  probably  start  into  growth  yet ; 
sometimes  they  lie  dormant  for  a  year.  If  we  knew 
what  species  your  tubers  belong  to  we  could  tell  you 
more  about  them. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Treatment  of  Calanthes  (Lady  B.).— 

After  Calanthes  have  flowered  they  should  be 
kept  quite  dry  until  the  new  growth  starts  at  the 
base  of  the  bulb,  which  will  be  towards  the  end 
of  March  or  in  April.  The  bulbs  must  in  the 
meanwhile  be  kept  in  a  structure  with  a  minimum 
temperature  of  50°.  They  need  repotting  every 
year,  and  this  should  be  carried  out  when  the 
new  growth  starts.  The  bulb  does  not  die  every 
year,  but  when  strong  it  produces  offsets.  The 
plants  are  always  leafless  when  flowering.  A 
suitable  potting  compost  is  formed  of  two  parts 
fibrous  loam  to  one  part  leaf-mould  and  one  part 
made  up  of  dried  cow-manure,  pounded  fine,  and 
rough  silver  sand.  The  whole  must  be  thoroughly 
incorporated  together.  For  the  potting  the  size 
of  the  pots  will  depend  upon  the  bulbs  ;  but  for 
good  single  bulbs  pots  5  inches  to  6  inches  in 
diameter  are  very  suitable.  A  few  good  crooks 
must  be  put  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  and  a  little 
rough  loam  placed  over  them.  Then  fill  to  within 
1  inch  of  the  rim  with  the  compost,  place  the  plant 
in  position  so  that  the  young  growth  is  as  near 
the  centre  of  the  pot  as  possible,  and  pot  firmly, 
leaving  the  surface  just  below  the  rim  and  the 
base  of  the  young  growth  a  little  below  the 
surface.  When  potted  they  may  be  placed  in  a 
good  light  position  in  the  stove.  At  first  they 
require  very  little  water,  but  in  summer  when 


growing  freely  a  liberal  amount  is  necessary.  At 
that  time  an  occasional  dose  of  weak  liquid 
cow-manure  is  very  helpful.  As  the  leaves 
show  signs  of  going  to  rest  the  plants  should  be 
exposed  to  strong  light  in  order  to  ripen  them 
thoroughly. 

Lilies  for  pot  culture  [N.  r.)— The 

test  types  of  Lilies  for  this  purpose  are  the  white- 
flowered  trumpet  Lilies,  L.  longiflorum  and  those 
of  the  L.  speciosum  group  of  which  L.  s.  rubrum, 
L.  s.  album  and  L.  s.  album  Krsetzeri  are  the 
best.  The  varieties  of  the  former  attain,  when 
forced,  a  height  of  about  3  feet,  while  those  of 
the  latter  group  are  about  4  feet  high  unless  very 
late  or  retarded  bulbs  are  employed.  It  is 
possible  by  the  use  of  bulbs  potted  in  the  ordinary 
way  in  season  and  by  the  use  of  retarded  bulbs 
to  have  a  succession  of  flowers  for  months ;  indeed, 
these  Lilies  are  now  obtainable  all  the  year  round. 
Both  sets  succeed  perfectly  well  in  sandy  loam, 
and  those  of  the  L.  speciosum  group  require 
rather  rich  soils  and  plenty  of  root-moisture  in 
their  growing  season.  The  colours  are  white  and 
reddish  orimsom,  and  the  form  of  the  flower  of 
the  one  is  trumpet  shape  while  those  of  the  other 
approximate  to  a  star-fish  in  outline.  The  bulbs 
should  be  potted  and  placed  in  a  frame  to  root, 
being  covered  with  ashes  in  the  meantime. 

Cypripediums  seeding  (Sam  G.).~ 

The  seed  of  the  Cypripediums  will  take,  as  a 
rule,  from  ten  months  to  one  year  to  ripen.  You 
will  be  able  to  tell  when  the  seed  is  ripe  by  the 
pod  changing  to  a  yellow  or  brown  colour,  and 
commencing  to  split,  thus  showing  the  dust-like 
seeds  therein.  The  seed  should  be  sown  as  soon 
as  it  is  ripe.  The  best  way  to  sow  the  seed,  and 
that  followed  by  all  who  raise  these  plants  on  an 
extensive  scale,  is  to  pot  a  few  ordinary  kinds  of 
Cypripedium  in  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  peat 
and  sphagnum  and  sprinkle  the  seed  thinly  on 
the  surface.  The  roots  of  the  growing  plant 
tend  to  keep  the  soil  sweet,  and  in  practice  it 
will  be  found  that  the  seeds  germinate  in  this 
way  much  better  than  if  there  is  not  a  living 
plant  in  the  pot.  Paiticular  care  must  be  taken 
in  watering,  otherwise  many  of  the  minute  seeds 
will  be  washed  away.  If  possible,  the  seeds 
when  sown  should  be  placed  in  a  structure  kept 
just  a  few  degrees  warmer  than  that  in  which  the 
plants  are  usually  grown.  Dendrobiums  may  be 
sown  exactly  as  recommended  for  Cypripediums, 
except  that  the  compost  should  be  made  up  of 
two  parts  sphagnum  to  one  of  peat.  An  ordinary 
Cypripedium  may  be  potted  in  this.  Most 
growers  prefer  such  a  species  as  C.  barbatum, 
whose  leaves  are  compact. 

Kentia  leaf  fop  Inspection  (Lieutenant-Colonel 
0.  li.l—Yes,  the  leaf  is  badly  infested  with  scale  insects, 
which  must  be  sponged  off  at  once.  Use  a  solution  of 
soft  soap,  "Zoz.  to  a  gallon  of  warm  soft  water. 

Hydpangea  panlculata  (iV.  TI'.).  —  The  pot 
plants  may  be  pruned  or  cut  back  into  the  firm  wood  to 
any  good,  well-matured  or  prominent  eye  or  bud,  and  a 
similar  treatment  may  be  meted  out  to  those  in  the  open 
ground.  Standards  in  the  open  m&y  be  cut  back  to  within 
1  inch  or  2  inches  of  the  starting  point  of  the  last 
season's  growth,  where  good  eyes  are  usually  to  be  found. 
The  bush  plants  may  be  less  severely  dealt  with,  though  it 
is  necessary  to  prune  these  to  well-matured  wood  to  get 
the  best  results.  The  best  heads  of  bloom  are  the  result 
of  this  hard  pruning  and  constant  feeding  of  the  plants 
when  growth  has  begun. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Pruning:  a  Holly  hedgre  {G.  M.  M.).— 

The  best  time  to  prune  or  clip  the  Holly,  where 
this  is  desired  or  at  all  necessary,  is  the  early 
part  of  March,  as  this  enables  the  plant  to  make 
its  new  growth  in  due  season.  We  do  not  know 
any  Lily  by  the  name  *'  Eglaraon,"  and  it  is 
probable  that  it  is  only  a  local  term  among  the 
natives.  You  do  not,  however,  say  the  country 
from  which  you  get  it.  Were  it  possible  tor  you 
to  get  a  dried  flower  and  leaf  of  the  plant,  or 
even  a  drawing,  we  might  assist  you. 

Destpoylns  tree  stumps  [A.  M.  C).— We  do 
not  kaow  of  any  means  of  causing  the  tree  stumps  to 


decay  and  thus  save  the  trouble  of  grubbing  them.  They 
may,  however,  be  destroyed  by  burning  in  the  following 
manner:  Bore  some  holes  in  them  1  inch  in  diameter  to 
a  point  somewhat  beyond  the  centre.  These  holes  should 
be  three-parts  filled  with  saltpetre,  and  then  filled  up 
with  water  and  tightly  corked.  After  three  months  have 
passed  remove  the  corks,  fill  the  holes  with  paraftin  and 
then  set  on  fire.  Treated  in  this  way  they  will  gradually 
smoulder  away. 

Plantlngr  undep  trees  (Hihei-niax—YouT  g&Tdeu 
is  a  very  unsatisfactory  one  to  deal  with,  for  between  the 
Planes  and  Elms  grass  has  very  little  chance  to  become 
established.  The  best  way  to  deal  with  the  space  would 
be  to  carpet  the  ground  with  common  Irish  Ivy.  with 
patches  of  double  Daffodils  here  and  there.  Tbe  Ivy 
succeeds  well  under  trees,  and  when  well  established  is 
effective.  If  you  prefer  to  keep  it  dwarf  it  can  be  clipped 
hard  back  each  spring.  A  level  carpet  would  look  well, 
or  you  could  have  an  undulated  surface  by  planting 
groups  of  Tree  Ivies  in  the  open  spaces  among  the  other 
Ivy.  You  could  use  either  green,  gold  or  silver  variegated 
Tree  Ivies. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Inapchingr  Muscat  of  Alexandria 
Grapes  on  stocks  of  Mrs.  Pear- 
son and  Sweetwater  (Anxious). -Ihe 
best  time  for  carrying  out  the  work  is  about  the 
middle  of  March  when  the  Vines  usually  start 
naturally  into  growth.  The  way  to  do  it  is  to  out 
a  piece  out  of  the  stem  of  the  Vine  about  10  inches 
or  a  foot  above  the  surface  of  the  Vine  border.  It 
should  be  out  only  slightly  into  the  woody  part 
below  the  bark,  and  the  out  should  be  about 
3  inches  long.  The  next  thing  to  do  is  to  cut  a 
similar  slit  in  the  side  of  the  young  Vine  about 
to  be  inarched  in  such  a  position  that  both  outs 
will  meet,  with  the  young  pot  Vine  standing  on 
the  border.  Press  the  two  cut  faces  together 
and  bind  tightly  with  a  piece  of  matting  whipped 
several  times  over  the  now  combined  stems.  This 
completed,  the  top  of  the  young  inarched  Vine 
should  be  cut  back  to  within  two  buds  of  where 
they  have  been  joined  together.  The  strongest 
of  these  buds  should  be  encouraged  to  grow  its 
full  length  throughout  the  season,  making  a  shoot 
possibly  5  feet  or  6  feet  long.  The  shoot  proceed- 
ing from  the  other  bud  should  be  stopped  at  the 
fifth  leaf.  The  young  Vine  must  not  be  deprived 
of  sustenance  from  its  roots  in  the  pot  until  the 
autumn,  by  which  time  it  will  be  part  and  parcel 
of  the  permanent  Vine.  The  binding  material 
must  be  slightly  eased  about  midsummer, 
or  it  will  cut  deeply  into  the  bark.  Before 
easing  the  matting  take  the  precaution  of 
tying  the  Vines  above  and  below  the  inarched 
parts,  in  case  they  come  apart  while  the  ties 
are  eased.  Tie  again  as  before,  but  not  quite  so 
tightly. 

Opovrths    on    Ooosebeppy   stems    (F.    It. 

Baildon).~-1he  curious  growths  on  the  stems  of  the  Goose- 
berries appear  to  be  due  to  the  attack  of  some  organism 
upon  them,  but  what  is  not  evident.  The  best  thing  to  do 
will  be  to  cut  out  these  parts,  as  such  growths  undoubtedly 
take  nourishment  from  the  parts  that  should  have  it. 

The  summep  ppunlng-  of  espallep  Peap 
and  Apple  trees  (F.  P.  H. )  —The  orthodox,  and  we 
think  the  proper,  way  of  summer  pruning  espalier  Pear 
and  Apple  trees  is  certainly  not  to  cut  the  branches  of  the 
current  year's  growth  down  to  two  buds,  but  to  within 
six  buds  of  their  base.  By  allowing  this  number  of  buds 
to  remain  there  is  no  danger  of  the  basal  buds  being  excited 
into  premature  growth,  because  the  little  growth  which 
takes  place  after  this  summer  stopping  at  the  end  of  July 
or  beginning  of  August  invariably  rushes  to  the  top  buds. 
These  same  side  shoots  are  again  shortened  in  winter,  the 
weaker  shoots  to  two  buds  and  the  stronger  ones  to  three. 
The  small  shoots  above  the  basal  buds,  as  per  your  sketch, 
should  be  cut  back  to  two  or  three  buds  of  their  base,  with 
the  object  of  obtaining  one  or  two  strong  growths  from 
them  next  year. 

Deppedatlons  by  the  Peap  slug  (Erkiscampa 
Uinarianfi). — This  is  one  of  the  most  destructive  cater- 
pillars of  the  sawlly  tribe.  Clear  away  the  surface  soil 
immediately  under  the  affected  trees  to  a  depth  of  3  inches 
and  either  burn  or  bury  it  in  a  deep  hole,  as  this  will  be 
sure  to  contain  a  large  percentage  of  the  larvje.  Another 
necessary  precaution  to  take  is  to  syringe  your  trees 
copiously  as  soon  as  they  are  out  of  flower  aud  the  fruits 
set  with  the  following  mixture,  and  again  later  if  any 
sign  of  an  attack  is  perceived  :  Half  a  pound  of  soft  soap, 
half  a  pint  of  Tobacco  water  and  half  a  pint  of  paraffin  ; 
let  these  be  dissolved  in  warm  water,  applying  half  a 
pint  of  the  mixture  to  three  gallons  of  water  to  syringe 
with.  Take  care  to  thoroughly  mix  the  parathu  with  the 
water  before  it  is  applied  to  the  trees.  This  is  best  done 
by  churning  the  water  several  times  over  in  and  out  with 
the  syringe. 


Supplement  lo   THE  GARDEN,  February  ipit,   1909. 


HREE  POPULAR  SWEET  PEAS 
MAUVE,    FRANK   DOLBY. 
WHITE,    NORA    UNWIN. 
CRIMSON,    KING   EDWARD   VII. 


f    . 


Sj 


Hudson  <^  k'eutna.  Lid.,  Pntiters,  London,  S.E. 


GARDEN. 


^^ 


-^^=^^^- 


~^-i)-^.^c 


^^^^^^ii— r^ 


No.   1944.- Vol.  LXXIII. 


February  20,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


The    New   Classifica- 
tion OP  Daffodils..    s5 

Notes  of  the  Week      813 

correspondenoe 
The  double  Cyclamen     «6 
New    Potatoes    at 

Christmas 87 

Cure  for  Peach   leaf- 

cui'l     87 

How  to  rid  a  garden 

of  field  mice  . .  . .  87 
Sunflower     seeds    for 

poultry 87 

A     Crocus     flowering 

without  siiil  ..  ..  87 
Clubbing  in  Brassicas  87 
A  wonderful  fruit  .  .  87 
When  to  plant  fruic 

trees 87 

Rose  Garden 

Forthcoming  R>^ses  . .     88 
Greenhouse 
.  Seed  •  sowing     under 


Chrysanthemum 
ornatum 

Propagating  Hippe- 
aatrums  (Amaryllis) 
by  seeds 

Begonia  Patrie   . . 

Klower  Garden 
The  Cilician  Snowdrop 


Klower  Garden 
Double  Daisies  in  pots    90 
Daffodil  notes     . .     . .     90 
Fruit  Garden 

Fruit  notes 91 

Kitchen  Garden 
Brussels  Sprouts  and 
their  culture   .  .     ..     91 
Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 92 

Pruning    Black     Cur- 
rant buihes      . .  1)2 
How  to  raise  tender 
and    half  -  hardy 

annuals     '-I3 

A     good     Rose     for 

amateurs 03 

The  Town  Garden    ..    93 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For    the  South    and 

South  Midlands     . .    91 
For  the    North    and 
North  Midlands    . .    94 

New  Orchids 91 

A    valuable     Pear     for 

amateurs      95 

ANSWERS      TO     COKRB- 
8PONDBNT8 

Flower  garden    . .     . .    95 

Greenhouse 90 

Rose  garden        . .     . .     90 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

The  Cilician  Snowdrop  in  a  Scottish  garden 88 

The  new  wiuter-flowering  Begonia  Patrie       89 

A  new  Chrysanthemum  in  the  greenhouse  at  Kew      . .  90 

A  fine  potf  ul  of  double  Daisies 01 

How  to  prune  Black  Currant  bushes 92,  93 

Pear  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey 96 


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Offlces:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C.  \ 


THE   NEW   CLASSIFICATION 
OF    DAFFODILS 

By  THE  Royal  HuRTicpi.TraAL  Society. 

SEVERAL  of  those  most  closely  interested 
in  the  subject  have  asked  rae  to 
express  my  opinion  on  the  new  classifi- 
cation of  Daffodils.  My  known  study 
of  these  flowers  for  over  a  quarter  of 
a  century  possibly  gives  me  a  claim  to  speak 
and  will  acquit  me  of  presumption  in  speakiDg 
plainly. 

First,  it  appears  to  me  that  the  issuing  of  this 
classification  has  been  unusual  and  unfortunate 
in  procedure.  According  to  the  official  report  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  for  1908,  "  At 
tlie  request  of  the  Daffodil  Committee  the  Council 
appointed  a  Committee.  .  .  .  The  Committee 
have  delivered  their  Report,  instituting  an  en- 
tirely new  system  of  classification,  which  the 
Council  have  accepted,  and  ordered  to  be  used  at 
the  Society's  Shows. "  And  the  newly-classified 
list  of  Daffodil  names  printed  by  authority  of  the 
council  is  enjoined  "  for  use  at  all  exhibitions  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society." 

It  would  surely  have  been  expedient,  and  in 
accord  with  all  received  custom  in  such  delibera- 
tions, to  have  referred  back  the  report  of  the 
special  committee  to  the  Narcissus  committee  as 
a  whole,  that  they  might  have  a  full  oppor- 
tunity of  considering  such  a  sweeping  innovation 
before  imposing  it  by  edict  of  the  council  upon 
the  society  and  the  public.  The  more  so, 
because  the  authors  of  the  new  scheme  betray 
doubt  as  to  its  reception  by  the  expressions 
"  for  the  present  experimentally  adopted " 
"  if  the  principle  involved  in  the  present 
list  should  find  acceptance. "  The  laige  number 
of  errors  the  list  contains  indicates  undue  haste 
in  publication,  and  the  only  result  at  present  of 
this  precipitancy  has  been  confusion.  The 
schedules  of  one  or  two  of  the  spring  flower 
shows  have  been  altered  to  the  new  classification  ; 
in  others  the  old  is  retained.  The  bulb  lists  of 
the  chief  professionals,  including  that  of  Messrs. 
Barr,  which  is  reckoned  classical  and  a  standard, 
are  retaining  the  older  arrangement. 

I  may  here  mention  that,  by  some  extra- 
ordinary blunder,  the  name  of  Mr.  P.  R.  Barr, 
who  originated  the  demand  for  some  amended 
plan  of  nomenclature,  and  whose  advice  would 
have  been  invaluable,  was  omitted  from  the 
special  committee.  I,  myself,  was  unfortunately 
prevented  from  attending.  I  believe  I  am  at 
liberty  to  couple  Mr.  Barr's  name  with  my  own 
and  to  say  that  we  should  both  have  strongly 
opposed  the  new  classification  as  now  published. 
Every  expert  with  whom  I  have  corresponded 
expresses  himself  in  the  same  diriction,  and  all 


agree   in   regretting  that  the    judgment   of  the 
Narcissus  committee  upon  it  was  not  invited. 

To  me  it  seems  in  no  single  feature  an  im- 
provement on  the  old  order,  but  a  revolution, 
indistinct  in  intention,  and  without  results 
sufficient  to  compensate  for  the  disturbance  it 
has  created.  Its  want  of  clear  aim  will  appear 
from  the  widely  different  views  of  members  of 
the  special  committee.  One  writes  to  me  that 
the  nature  of  the  new  ariaagement  matters  little, 
but  the  one  thing  requii  ed  is  to  get  every  single 
flower  clearly  ticketed  with  its  own  class-label ; 
but,  it  this  is  all,  a  very  moderate  alteration  of 
the  old  arrangement  would  still  serve,  for  a  sub- 
committee appointed  for  the  purpose  could 
assign  to  its  proper  pigeon-hole  every  flower  as  it 
arrives.  Another  member  tells  me  the  new  list 
is  simply  for  "the  man  in  the  street,"  and  not  for 
experts.  On  the  contrary,  another  writes  that  it 
is  exclusively  for  convenience  at  the  shows,  i.e., 
for  experts,  and  that  the  old  order  might  remain 
in  use  concurrently  for  ordinary  purposes  ! 

The  manifest  and  insuperable  fault  of  the  new 
arrangement  is  that  it  'absolutely  abolishes  any 
approximation  to  natural  classification.  It  is  all 
very  well  for  its  authors  to  write  of  being 
' '  compelled  to  fall  back  on  purely  arbitrary 
divisions,"  but  to  push  this  supposed  necessity 
to  extremes  is  to  arrive  at  the  obviously  absurd 
and  grotesque.  The  ridicule  will  be  incurred 
even  of  "  the  man  in  the  street "  when  he  sees  on 
a  stand  such  evidently  incompatible  flowers 
grouped  together  as,  for  instance,  those  included 
in  the  new  Division  7.  Here  we  have  (a) 
ordinary  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  (6)  triandrus, 
(c)  Jonquil,   (d)  hybrids  of  Ajax  and  t  iandrus 

(c)  Hyacinth  and  similar  varieties,  (/)  odorus, 
ig)  tridymus.  Let  us  consider  some  of  these  items. 
To  pass  over  the  fact  that  the  eye  rebels  against 
bringing  a,  b,  c  and  g  into  one  class,  it  may  be 
noted  that  a  single  seed-pod  of  Ajax  and  triandrus 

(d)  commonly  yields  single-flowered  plants  and 
multi-flowered.  Moreover,  the  same  plant  is 
often  single  flowered  one  season  and  two  or  more 
flowered  the  next.  Therefore,  what  are  virtually 
identical  plants  are  classed  in  the  new  list  under 
three  several  divisions,  e.(/. ,  (1)  Count  Visconti, 
(2)  Countess  Grey  and  (7)  Betty  Berkeley,  which 
is  absurd,  as  Euclid  would  conclude.     Hyacinth 

(e)  is  a  short-cupped,  single-bloomed  flower  which 
occasionally  freaks  to  twin  flowers,  just  as 
Poeticus  ornatus  will  do  under  certain  conditions. 
Thus  a  quite  separable  accident  is  made  to 
determine  its  class.  Odorus  (/")  is  a  hybrid  of 
Ajax  and  Jonquil,  and  is  classed  in  Division  7 
because  it  bears  two  or  more  flowers.  Buttercup, 
although  from  the  very  same  cross,  is  put  into 
Division  2  because  it  is  usually  single-flowered. 
But  seedlings  from  this  cross  and  from  the  same 


86 


THE     GAEDEN. 


(lEliKUAKY    -JO,  1909- 


pod  vary  from  one  to  three  flowers  permaneutly 
or  in  suooossive  years.  In  the  latter  case  the 
same  flower  must  be  shown  one  season  under 
Division  '2,  and  the  next  under  Division  7. 

Again,  under  Division  1  we  have  flowers  so 
totally  distinct  by  nature  and  to  the  eye  as  Ajax 
proper,  cyclamineus,  hybrids  of  triandrus.  and 
Balbocodiura.  A  child,  let  alone  "the  man  in 
the  street,"  would  refuse  to  squeeze  things  so 
dissimilar  into  one  compartment.  Did  space 
permit,  the  same  absurdities  could  be  shown 
throughout  the  list.  In  brief,  this  is  the 
principle  of  arbitrary  division  by  measurement 
run  mad.  The  old  classification  of  Mr.  Baker 
and  Mr.  Peter  Barr  was  an  admirable  piece  of 
work,  inasmuch  as  it  contrived  to  be  usefully 
arbitrary  without  doing  unnecessary  violence  to 
the  natural  divisions.  I  maintain  that,  with 
certain  omissions  and  additions,  the  broad  frame- 
work of  this  arrangement  must  always  be 
retained — naturam  expellas  fared,  tamen  tuque 
recurret. 

There  are  other  great  objections  to  the  new 
order.  Where  the  work  of  disentanglement  and 
arrangement  has  to  be  done  is  in  the  mass  of 
modern  intermediate  forms,  but  the  pure 
elements  from  which  they  have  been  bred  should 
not  be  confused  with  them.  Thus  pure  Ajax  and 
pure  Poeticus  should  eich  form  a  division,  and 
the  expert  will  be  at  fault  so  rarely  as  not  to 
matter  in  distinguishing,  say,  the  pure  Poeticus 
from  its  nearest  hybrids.  Any  classification  is 
really  for  the  expert  in  the  first  instance,  for  it 
is  he  who  has  to  assign  each  new  flower  to  it  for  the 
relief  of  "  tlie  man  in  the  street.'"  I  have  been 
aiisweied  that  Division  4  of  the  new  scheme 
admits  of,  and  was  intended  to  contain,  a 
separate  sub-division  of  pure  Poeticus.  But  this 
concession  appears  to  me  to  acknowledge  in 
principle  the  superiority  of  the  older  classification. 

It  must  be  seen,  too,  that  in  proportion  a^ 
natural  classification  is  dropped,  not  only  form 
becomes  more  important  in  making  divisions, 
but  cjlour  also.  Any  scheme  claiming  to  be 
fairly  complete  and  ready  for  actual  use,  e.g.,  in 
arranging  a  show,  must  provide  for,  and  should 
improve  upon,  the  old  colour  distinctions  in  each 
division.  This  is  of  the  essence  of  a  useful 
scheme,  and  it  is  not  enough  to  suggest,  as  the 
new  list  does,  that  this  may  be  added  in  a  later 
edition.  Even  if  its  general  principle  were  accept- 
able, which  I  deny,  this  new  classification  ought 
not  to  have  been  launched  until  more  practically 
complete.  G.  H.  Enuleheart. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS 

*,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  i-upplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

February  2."J. — Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Exhibition  of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m.  Lecture  at  tfiree 
o'clock  on  "A  Camping  Tour  through  Syria  to 
Petra  in  Arabia,"  by  A.  W.  Sutton,  Esq.,  J.P., 
F.LS.,  V.M.H. 

March  9.  —  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Exhibition  of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  !  p  m.  to  6  p.m. 

Bound  volumes  of  "  Tne  Gapden  " 
as  prizes  at  hoptlcultural  shows.— 

It  has  been  suggested  by  several  secretaries  of 
provincial  horticultural  societies  that  a  bound 
volume  of  The  Garden  would  be  much  valued 
if  offered  as  a  prize  for  competition  at  their 
respective  shows.  The  Proprietors  have  therefore 
decided  to  offer  a  certain  number  of  volumes  for 
such  a  purpose,  and  any  secretary  desiring  one 
should  apply  at  once  to  the  Manager  of  The 
Garden,  211,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden, 
London,  W.C.,  marking  the  envelope  plainly  on 
the  outside  with  the  words,  ' '  Prize  Volume. " 
All  such  applications  will  be  promptly  considered, 


and  volumes  presented  according  to  the  discre- 
tion of  the  Manager. 

Gapdeneps'     Royal     Benevolent 

Institution. — The  Liverpool  Auxiliary  have 
arranged  for  their  armual  reunion  to  take 
place  on  the  2llth  inst.  They  have  secured 
Mr.  M.  E.  Kearney,  deputy-chairman  of  the 
Parks  and  Gardens  Committee,  to  preside, 
and  a  fine  array  of  artistes  will  attend,  so 
that  everything  promises  to  a  successful 
issue.  Mr.  R.  G.  Waterman,  Woolton,  is  the 
secretary. 

Royal     Hopticultupal     Society's 
annual  greneral  meetlngr— The  annual 

general  meeting  of  the  Fellows  of  the  society 
was  held  in  the  lecture-room  on  the  yth  inst., 
Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart.,  presiding  over  a 
fairly  good  attendance.  Seventy  new  Fellows 
were  elected.  In  moving  the  adoption  of  the 
report  and  balance-sheet,  Sir  Trevor  touched  on 
many  points  of  interest,  such  as  the  society's 
work  at  Wisley,  the  colour  chart,  and  the  able 
and  courteous  manner  in  which  the  officers  of 
the  society  carried  out  their  duties,  a  compliment 
that  is  well  deserved.  Mr.  J.  Gurney  Fowler 
seconded  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence's  proposal,  and 
in  doing  so  drew  attention  in  his  usual  lucid 
manner  to  points  of  special  interest  in  the 
balance-sheet,  particulars  of  which  were  given 
in  a  recent  issue.  A  discussion,  in  which  the 
Rev.  Joseph  Jacob,  Mr.  C.  E.  Pearson,  Mr.  H. 
J.  Elwes,  Mr.  G.  Payne  and  others  took  part, 
was  raised  in  regard  to  the  Lindlej-  Library, 
chiefly  because  so  little  money  had  been  devoted 
to  it  during  the  past  year.  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence 
pointed  out,  however,  that  the  library,  although 
it  existed  for  the  benefit  of  the  Fellows,  was  not 
administered  by  the  society,  but  by  the  Lindley 
trustees,  and  anj»  new  books  purchased  by  the 
society  were  specially  marked  to  distinguish 
them  from  the  original  library.  The  Veitoh 
Memorial  medals  were  conferred  on  the  Rev. 
W.  Wilks  and  Mr.  William  Marshall,  and  the 
Victoria  Medal  of  Honour  upon  Sir  Jeremiah 
Colman,  Birt  ,  and  Mr.  Charles  Ross. 
Peppetual-flowepinpr    Capnation 

Society. — The  annual  meeting  of  this  society 
was  held  at  the  Hotel  W^indsor  on  the  10th  inst. 
The  report  of  the  committee  which  was  pre- 
sented showed  a  very  satisfactory  year  of  work. 
The  registration  of  new  varieties  has  been 
started  ;  the  lectures  and  question  box  at  the 
shows  have  been  much  appreciated  ;  medals  have 
been  struck  ;  two  challenge  cups  have  been  given 
to  the  society,  one  by  the  president.  Lord 
Howard  de  Walden,  and  the  other  by  the 
American  Carnation  Society  ;  new  members  are 
being  enrolled  ;  and  two  successful  shows  have 
been  held.  The  gate  at  the  December  show 
was  disappointing,  and  this  has  told  its  tale 
in  the  accounts  for  the  year.  However,  all's 
well  that  ends  well,  and  the  threatened  deficit 
has  been  averted  (thanks  in  no  small 
measure  to  the  generosity  of  the  members 
of  the  committee)  and  there  is  a  small  balance 
in  hand  with  which  to  begin  the  new  year. 
Mr.  Brunton,  in  moving  the  adoption  of  the 
report  and  accounts,  thanked  all  the  donors  of 
prizes  and  all  the  ofiieers  of  the  society  for  their 
help  during  190S,  and  asked  members  to  also 
remember  their  indebtedness  to  the  Press.  The 
following  is  a  list  of  oflSce  -  bearers  for  1909: 
Patron,  H.S.H.  Prince  Francis  of  Teck :  presi- 
dent, the  Lord  Howard  de  Walden  ;  vice- 
presidents.  Sir  R.  L.  Baker,  Bart.,  Messrs. 
J.  S.  Brunton,  S.  H.  Byass,  E.  T.  Johnstone, 
T.  S.  TurnbuU  and  the  Rev.  J.  Jacob; 
chairman  of  committee.  Mr.  J.  S.  Brunton  ; 
vice-chairman  of  commitee,  Mr.  S.  Mortimer ; 
hon.  secretary,  Mr.  Hayward  Mathias ;  show 
superintendent,  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes ;  hon.  treasurer, 
Mr.  L.  J.  Cook  ;  auditors,  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis 
and  Mr.  R.  Pinches.  There  will  be  two  shows 
during  the  present  year,  both  at  the  Roya. 
Horticultural  .Society's  Hall,  Vincent  Squarel 
The  first  one  is  fixed  for  March  24. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  /or  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


"The    Gapden"  Flowep    Show.— 

The  dictum  of  "A.  C."  does  not  by  any  means 
settle  the  question  as  to  what  are  spring-sown 
Onions.  To  claim  that  an  Onion  raised  after  the 
New  Year  is  a  spring  -  sown  one,  although 
the  sowing  be  made  in  midwinter,  is  as  absurd 
as  to  claim  that  a  sowing  made  also  under  glass 
in  December  would  raise  autumn-sown  plants. 
Old  practices  have  recognised  from  time  im- 
memorial that  autumn  sowings  are  made  in  the 
autumn  (August  and  September),  spring  sowings 
are  made  in  the  spring  (March  and  April),  and  a 
sowing  made  in  .January  is  neither.  'This  matter 
crops  up  continually  at  shows,  and  compels,  in 
many  cases,  the  formation  of  a  separate  class  for 
winter-sown  Onions.  As  to  Carrots,  the  proper 
varieties  for  a  .July  show,  from  amateurs 
especially,  who  do  not  grow  Carrots  for  exhibi- 
tion as  professional  gardeners  do,  and  often  have 
little  room,  are  the  Early  Nantes  or  Scarlet  Model, 
and  not  the  late,  deep-rooting  Intermediate.  No 
one  suggested  showing  Grapes  in  a  coUeetion  of 
bush  fruits.  White  Currants  are,  I  find  from 
wide  experience,  far  less  grown  than  Red  ;  but, 
of  course,  in  any  collection  of  bush  fruits  a  dish 
of  good  White  Currants  would  tell. — A.  Dean. 

Apple  Newton  W^onder.— We  con- 
stantly read  of  Newton  Wonder  being  a  very 
free  bearer.  I  finrl  it  extremely  shy,  even  with 
trees  against  a  wall.  Curiously,  the  only  tree  I 
have  that  bears  even  decently  is  a  standard  on 
the  Crab  ! — D.  K.,  County  Camn. 

Bupatoipe  en  apbre  at  the 
RlviePa. — Mrs.  Bardswell,  in  her  notes  from 
the  Riviera  (page  51),  mentions  a  winter-blooming 
shrub  which  she  says  the  gardeners  here  call 
Epatoire.  Eupatoire,  I  think,  is  the  proper 
rendering.  I  have  no  doubt  that  the  plant 
described  by  your  correspondent  is  Eupatorium 
micranthum.  a  native  of  Mexico,  but  quite  at 
home  on  the  Riviera.  I  do  not  know  if  an 
English  name  exists,  unless  it  be  Eupatory.  The 
only  British  species  is  E.  cannabinum,  the 
common  Hemp  Agrimony,  which  is  very  dififerent, 
however,  to  the  Eupatoire  en  arbre.  Here,  in 
the  South  of  France,  this  Eupatoire  appears  to 
take  the  place  of  our  English  Privet  for  hedges, 
and,  indeed,  when  out  of  flower  much  resembles 
it  in  form  and  habit.  It  grows  from  5  feet 
to  8  feet  in  height,  commences  flowering  in 
November,  and  continues  in  bloom  throughout 
the  winter.  The  much-branched  corymbs  of 
pretty  composite  flowers  are  terminal  on  the 
current  year's  growth.  Whether  as  a  hedge 
plant  or  in  the  shrubberies,  it  is  a  charming 
subject  with  its  wealth  of  bloom  of  snowy 
whiteness. — E.   A\"ery,  Orasse. 

The  double  Cyclamen,— The  evolution 

of  the  Cyclamen  has  been  very  marked  within 
the  last  few  years,  and  many  beautiful  forms 
may  now  be  obtained.  No  doubt  the  double 
flower  in  the  near  future  will  have  come  to  stay, 
but  it  is  extremely  doubtful  if  it  ever  attains  the 
same  place  in  the  affections  of  lovers  of  flowers 
as  the  single  varieties  hold.  Mr.  Humphreys 
may  be  interested  to  know  that  a  pure  white 
double-flowered  specimen  occurred  here  a  few 
years  ago,  from  seed  procured  from  Messrs.  Sutton. 
Every  flower  was  in  the  same  form,  which  was 
very  fine.  The  plant  was  isolated  and  the  seed 
saved,  the  result  being  a  batch  of  plants  which 
flowered  without  exception  true  to  the  parent. 
Unfortunately,  the  whole  lot  was  lost  during  the 
resting  period  and  our  disappointment  was  great. 
I  enclose  a  flower  of  another  shape.  I  have  not 
seen  anything  quite  like  this  before ;  all  the 
flowers  on  the  same  plant  are  alike. — T.  C.  [The 
flower  sent  by  our  correspondent  was  very  flat 
and  consisted  of  two  whorls  of  rather  narrow 
and  somewhat  twisted  petals. — Ed.] 


February  20,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


87 


New   Potatoes  at  Chpistmas.— I 

notice  in  your  oorrespondenoe  columns  a  note 
about  new  Potatoes  in  January  and  a  request  for 
information  as  to  how  they  are  obtained.  Per- 
haps a  word  from  one  who  used  to  get  them  in 
at  Christmas  may  not  be  out  of  place.  In  my 
last  private  situation  I  made  a  point  of  getting 
my  first  crop  by  that  time  and  maintaining  the 
supply  through  the  spring.  I  selected  for  the 
first  crop  good  sets  of  early  Ashleaf,  hardened 
them  off,  and  planted  them  in  an  old  Melon 
frame  about  the  end  of  September,  when  they 
used  to  bear  at  the  time  stated  and  often  proved 
a  great  surprise  to  visitors. — C.  H.  Clissold, 
54)  Ahinger  Road,  Primrose  Hill,  N.  W. 

Cure  for  Peaoh  leaf-ourl.— It  is 
gratifying  to  be  able  again  to  report  favourably 
->Tx  Mr.  Bunyard's  specific  for  leaf -curl.  Last 
year  we  began  to  spray  the  Peaoh  and  Nectarine 
trees  when  the  buds  began  to  swell,  and  having 
sufficient  of  the  liquid  to  go  over  the  trees 
several  times,  the  process  was  repeated  at 
intervals  of  a  week  four  or  five  times,  with  the 
result  that  no  sign  of  the  dreaded  curl 
appeared.  The  growth  produced  was  clean  and 
healthy,  and  the  crop  of  fruit  all  that  could  be 
desired — certainly  the  best  we  have  had  for 
many  years.  After  two  seasons'  complete 
success,  one  feels  justified  in  saying  that  in 
Medela  we  have  a  remedy,  or,  rather,  a  pre- 
ventive of  the  scourge,  which  so  sadly  injures, 
and  in  some  cases  entirely  kills,  our  outdoor  Peach 
and  Nectarine  trees. — T.  Carter,  Glastonbury. 

How   to   pid    a  grapden  of  field 

mice. — If  "H.  E.  C."  will  try  what  I  may 
perhaps  call  the  water-trap,  I  am  sure  he  will  be 
pleased  with  the  result.  It  consists  of  a  large 
jar  which  is  rather  narrow  at  the  neck.  It 
much  resembles  a  jam  or  marmalade  jar,  but 
of  a  large  size,  say,  about  12  inches  deep,  7  inches 
or  8  inches  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  about 
4  inches  wide  at  the  neck.  The  jar  should  be 
plunged  in  the  grass  or  border  near  the  holes  of 
the  mice  until  the  top  of  the  jar  is  just  level 
with  the  surface  of  the  ground,  then  filled  about 
three-parts  full  with  clean  water.  The  mice 
while  trying  to  drink  the  water  lose  their  footing 
on  the  slippery  rim  of  the  jar  and  drop  in.  A 
number  of  such  traps  scattered  about  the  garden 
will  soon  reduce  the  number  of  mischief-makers. 
Last  summer  my  employer.  Sir  Herbert  E. 
Maxwell,  having  apparently  seen  or  heard  about 
this  contrivance  while  visiting  in  England,  wrote 
instructing  me  to  give  it  a  trial.  I  was  rather 
sceptical  at  first,  but  after  giving  it  a  fair  trial 
was  certainly  agreeably  surprised  with  the  result. 
Within  a  radius  of  some  50  yards  with  eight 
such  traps  we  killed  over  100  mice  in  about  three 
months,  and  we  are  still  getting  an  odd  one 
occasionally.  The  jars  can  be  purchased  for  the 
price  of  the  ordinary  mouse-trap,  and  after  they 
are  once  placed  in  position  there  is  very  little 
trouble  with  them.  There  is  no  time  or  patience 
lost  in  setting  the  trap  each  time  a  mouse  is 
caught,  and  one  only  requires  to  take  a  turn 
round  the  traps  each  day  and  collect  the  slain. 
The  water  should  be  changed  perhaps  once  a 
week  during  warm  weather.  I  may  say  that 
among  the  number  collected  at  Monreith  there 
were  all  sorts  and  sizes  of  mice,  but  the  majority 
were  the  short-tailed  field  mice.  —  Samukl 
Gordon,  Monreith  Gardens,  Whauphill. 

In  answer  to  the  enquiries  of  "  H.  E.  C." 

on  page  26  of  The  Garden,  ' '  How  to  rid  a 
garden  of  field  mice,"  we  may  point  out  that 
experience  has  shown  that  the  most  eflicacious 
remedy  is  Danysz  Virus.  Every  effort  should  be 
made  at  this  time  of  the  year  to  exterminate 
field  mice  before  seeds  are  sown.  The  great 
advantage  of  Danysz  Virus  is  that  it  contains  the 
germs  of  a  disease  to  which  only  rats  and  other 
mouselike  rodents  are  susceptible,  and  that  it  is 
quite  harmless  to  human  beings,  domestic  and 
other  animals,  birds,  ifec.  The  value  of  this 
remedy  has  been  recognised  by  the  French 
Government,  which  recently  voted  the  sum  of 
£1-):,000  for  the  purpose  of  coping  with  a  plague  of 


field  mice  in  certain  departments  in  the  North  of 
France.  The  results  were  entirely  successful. 
What  was  thus  accomplished  on  a  large  scale  can 
be  managed  equally  effectively  in  such  a  small 
area  as  a  garden.  Danysz  Virus  for  mice  is  sold 
in  glass  tubes  at  Is.  6d.  per  tube ;  three  tubes,  3s. 
To  those  who  propose  to  give  the  remedy  a  trial, 
we  shall  be  very  willing  to  offer  advice  as  to  the 
number  of  tubes  to  be  used. — Daktsz  Virus, 
Limited,  53,  Leadenhall  Street,  London,  E.  G. 

Sunflowep   seeds    fop    poultpy.— 

Would  you  allow  me  to  enquire  through  your 
columns  it  any  of  your  readers  can  kindly  advise 
me  as  to  growing  Sunflower  seed  for  poultry? 
Is  the  climate  of  this  county  (Shropshire)  warm 
enough  to  thoroughly  ripen  the  seed  ?  What  is 
the  best  variety  ?  How  far  apart  should  the 
seed  be  sown,  and  how  far  from  plant  to  plant 
in  the  rows  ?  What  quantity  of  seed  might  one 
reasonably  expect  to  get  off,  say,  600  square 
yards  ?  I  suppose  it  should  be  sown  about 
March  ?  —  W.  Serjeantson,  Acton  Burnett 
Rectory,  Shrewsbury. 

A  Crocus  floweping  without  soil. 
The  illustration  (page  27)  of  a  Crocus  flowering 
without  soil  is  interesting,  but  the  occurrence  is, 
I  think,  by  no  means  an  unusual  one.  I  have 
several  times  found  Crocuses,  which  have  been 
dropped  in  the  autumn  on  rough  grass,  flowering. 
The  long  grass,  I  fancy,  keeps  the  bulbs  moist 
and  affords  them  slight  protection.  Last  spring, 
in  the  deep  shade  of  a  little  wood  of  mine,  I 
noticed  two  Daffodil  bulbs  lying  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  One  of  them  (the  common  Lent 
Lily)  bore  a  fully-expanded  flower,  while  the 
other  had  a  healthy-looking  bud.  The  autumn 
Colchieums  (Meadow  Saffrons)  and  Sternbergia 
lutea  may  be  often  seen  in  bulb  merchants'  shops 
blooming  where  they  lie  in  heaps,  also  some  of 
the  autumn  Crocuses. — E.  Teschemalhbr,  Lye 
Green  Farm,  Chesham,  Bucks. 

Clubbing  in  Bpassicas.— I  had  not 
heard  or  seen  anything  of  clubbing  for  a  long 
time  until  I  read  Mr.  Crook's  article  on  the 
subject  in  your  issue  for  January  30,  but 
remember  having  to  contend  with  it  in  one 
garden  I  took  charge  of  several  years  ago.  Many 
plants  when  taken  from  the  seed-bed  had  growths 
the  size  of  large  Peas  on  the  stem  among  the 
roots.  Some  of  these  I  discarded,  but  if  the 
plants  were  otherwise  good  I  simply  picked  off 
the  projecting  side  of  the  growth  and  killed  the 
white  grub  or  maggot,  which  was  nearly  always 
found  inside  the  young  plants.  I  then  made  up 
a  mixture  consisting  mostly  of  clay  and  water,  to 
which  was  added  a  fair  quantity  of  soot  and  lime 
and  a  dash  o^  paraffin.  This  was  mixed  until  it 
was  of  the  consistency  of  thick  paint  ;  the  roots 
were  then  puddled  in  it  and  planted  out,  and  the 
clubbing  or  grub  gave  no  further  trouble.  Mr. 
Crook's  plan  of  watering  with  manure  water  I 
consider  to  be  simply  another,  though  less  con- 
venient, means  of  arriving  at  the  same  end — that 
is,  making  the  roots  distasteful  to  the  grub  or 
maggot. — Anti  Clue. 

Uydpocyanic  acid  gas  and  mealy 

bug  on  Vines.  —  With  reference  to  the 
destruction  of  mealy  bug  on  Vines  by  the  use  of 
this  gas,  touched  upon  by  Mr.  G.  Wythes  in  your 
issue  for  the  30th  ult. ,  there  is  no  doubt  in  my 
mind  as  to  its  eflioacy.  The  great  drawback  is 
the  fact  that  the  eggs  are  not  destroyed.  We  have 
subjected  resting  Vines  to  the  gas  this  season, 
various  other  plants  being  experimented  upon  at 
the  same  time,  and  after  two  fumigations  we 
were  unable  to  find  a  live  bug  even  on  badly 
infested  plants.  With  regard  to  the  Vines,  how- 
ever, very  few  developed  insects  are  to  be  found 
upon  dormant  canes  at  this  period.  If  four 
fumigations  could  be  undertaken  at  intervals  of 
four  or  six  days,  commencing  immediately  the 
Vines  break,  1  think  practically  all  the  pests 
might  be  accounted  for.  I  have  not  yet  heard  of 
any  grower,  however,  who  has  had  the  courage  to 
try  this  plan,  lest  injury  should  be  done  to  the 
Vines  themselves.  All  I  can  say  on  the  matter 
1  from  experience  is  that  we  exposed  a  pot  Vine 


(Black  Hamburgh)  on  two  occasions  to  hydro- 
cyanic acid  gas,  when  its  shoots  were  from 
H  inches  to  2  inches  long,  and  it  has  since 
developed  sturdy  growths  and  good  bunches  of 
inflorescences,  being  in  no  way  hurt.  — J.  E.  Simms. 
A  WOndePful  fPUlt.— The  remarks  of 
Mr.  A.  Dean  (page  63)  on  a  wonderful  fruit,  or 
rather  some  wonderful  story  concerning  its 
parentage,  is  far  eclipsed  by  a  recent  article  in 
a  well-known  weekly  paper,  in  which  we  are 
gravely  told  that  "  A  Boston  horticulturist  has 
succeeded  in  producing  a  new  and  remarkable 
fruit  by  crossing  Cucumber  and  Orange  plants. 
The  new  fruit,  which  is  yellow  in  colour  and 
devoid  of  seed,  is  said  to  possess  a  most  agree- 
able flavour."  When  such  twaddle  as  this  is  put 
forward  in  all  seriousness,  one  is  incUned  to  look 
elsewhere  for  horticultural  notes  that  can  be 
relied  on.— H.  P. 

vrhen    to    plant    fpuit    tpees.— 

Beginners  must  often  be  sorely  puzzled  at  the 
contradictory  advice  they  get.  Constantly  they 
read  in  The  Garden  that  if  they  cannot  get 
their  new  Apple  trees  in  in  early  November  they 
had  better  wait  till  spring,  and  this  advice  is 
emphasised  in  that  useful  little  book  on  the 
Apple  by  Mr.  Thomas,  lately  published.  Now 
we  have  "  H.  T.  W."  in  a  recent  issue  of  The 
Garden  telling  them,  if  they  have  not  planted 
already,  to  do  so  at  once.  I  am  sure  that  he  is 
quite  wrong,  and  that  midwinter  planting, 
especially  in  cold,  wet  soils,  is  a  great  mistake. 
When  planting  is  done  in  November  there  is 
still  a  little  heat  in  the  soil,  of  which  the  roots 
take  hold  and  so  get  established,  and  the  same  may 
be  said,  though  in  a  decidedly  lesser  degree,  at 
the  end  of  March  and  beginning  of  April ;  but  in 
midwinter  the  soil  is  cold  and  lifeless  and  the 
young,  tender  roots  perish,  and  it  takes  a 
long  time  for  the  tree  to  recover  from  the  shock. 
"  H.  T.  W."  also  seems  to  imply  that  it  is  a  bad 
plan  to  move  the  trees  as  long  as  they  have  the 
old  leaves  on  them.  But  we  are  very  often  told 
that,  on  the  contrary,  such  leaves  as  are  on  in 
November  materially  aid  root  action. — D.  K., 
County  Cavan.  [So  much  depends  upon  the 
weather.  We  should  plant  now  if  the  ground  is 
not  frozen,  but  perhaps  those  of  our  readers  who 
grow  fruit  will  discuss  the  subject  in  our 
columns. — Ed.] 

Tulips  in  grass.— I  am  glad  to  see  this 
question  discussed  by  Mr.  Jacob  and  others,  as 
the  Tulip  is  so  beautiful  in  grass  that  it  would 
become  extremely  popular  could  it  be  persuaded 
to  flower  and  thrive  there  satisfactorily.  I  have 
for  years  paid  much  attention  to  the  subject,  and 
I  fear  that  the  results  of  planting  Tulips  in  grass 
will  generally  prove  highly  disappointing  after 
the  first  year,  the  disappointment  increasing  as 
another  year  or  two  pass,  as  the  plants  will  not 
only  fail  to  flower,  but  will  often  die  out  alto- 
gether. I  thmk  the  early  Tulips  are  the  most  vex- 
ing in  this  respect,  and  that  Tulipa  sylvestris  will, 
perhaps,  give  the  best  results.  I  have  been  told  that 
this  species  is  naturalised  in  some  parts  of  York- 
shire, and  I  know  that  it  is  one  of  the  best  for 
planting  in  grass,  although  only  a  proportion  of 
the  plants  will  yield  flowers  each  year.  Some  of 
the  Darwin  Tulips  were  largely  planted  in  grass 
in  a  large  garden  I  know  well ;  but  after  a  few 
years  hardly  any  remain  of  the  thousands  which 
were  originally  planted.  '  I  think  a  little  more 
experimental  planting  of  some  of  the  Tulip  species 
might  be  more  profitable  than  using  the  others, 
which  have  been  tried  so  frequently  with  but 
indifferent  results.  But  our  climate  seems  too 
cold  for  such  flowers  when  left  out  all  the  year, 
and  the  denseness  of  our  turf  is  probably  against 
them  also.  Even  in  the  border  many  good  Tulips 
have  but  a  short  life  unless  they  are  lifted  annually 
and  given  a  period  of  rest.  I  have,  however,  been 
struck  with  the  endurance  of  many  of  the  old 
Cottage  Tulips  in  the  border,  and  also  of  some  of 
the  descendants  of  a  few  of  the  Old  English  Tulips 
that  remained  after  the  holocaust  which  de- 
stroyed so  many  of  the  old  varieties  when  the 
tide  of  fashion  set  against  them. — S.  Arnott. 


S8 


THE     GARDEN. 


[February  20,  1909. 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 


FORTHCOMING   ROSES. 

Notes  on  Some  Future  Irish  Novelties.      I 

THE  following  notes  are  based  on  a  visit 
paid  in  the  middle  of  August  last  year 
to  some  of  the  Irish  raisers  of  Roses, 
supplemented  by  remarks  supplied  by 
them.  The  time  of  the  visit  was  at 
the  close  of  a  long  spell  of  dry  weather, 
when  the  Roses  had  been  forced  out  by  the  heat, 
consequently  one  did  not  see  the  seedlings  at 
their  best,  and  allowance  must  be  made  for  the 
apparent  lack  of  size  and  substance  in  many  of 
the  novelties. 

It  is  surelj'  advisable  that  substance  and  size 
should  not  be  neglected.  Doubtless  it  is  desir- 
able that  some  Roses  should  be  recommended  as 
good  for  growing  under  glass  ;  but  experience 
has  taught  us  that  a  good  forcing  Rose  is  not 
always  one  of  the  best  for  the  garden.  One 
generally  mistrusts  a  Rose  with  this  qualification. 
In  the  American  trade  there  is,  one  understands, 
a  great  demand  for  Irish-grown  Roses ;  but  a 
Rose  described  as  a  Tea  is  regarded— unjustly, 
one  admits — as  of  a  delicate  constitution.  This 
being  so,  raisers  are  naturally  tempted  to  class 
most  of  their  seedlings  as  Hybrid  Teas,  whereby 
the  rapidly  diminishing  Tea  section  suffers. 
Furthermore,  since  it  is  well  known  that  in  the 
States  the  cultivation  of  Roses  is  extensively 
carried  on  under  glass,  and  their  Roses,  as  a  rule, 
are  the  best  for  this  purpose,  there  is  an  incentive 
to  bring  out  their  novelties.  What  we  want  are 
Koses  not  only  possessing  good  form,  but  size 
and  substance  as  well,  supplemented  by  vigorous, 
free-flowering  garden  Roses  of  branching  habit, 
and  both  kinds  should,  above  all  things,  be 
fragrant. 

Rightly,  the  raisers  are  giving  attention  to 
yellow  novelties.  We  certainly  want 
more  of  them.  It  surely  cught  not 
to  be  impossible  to  raise  a  worthy 
successor  to  Marechal  Niel,  now,  alas ! 
so  deteriorated  that  one  never  sees  it 
in  the  perfection  of  twenty-five  or 
thirty  years  ago.  But  there  appears 
to  be  a  difficulty ;  the  deep  self-coloured 
flower  of  Marechal  Xiel  was  not  sug- 
gested in  any  of  the  yellow-tinted 
seedlings  it  was  my  privilege  to  inspect, 
and  they  nearly  all  were  deficient  in 
substance. 

Teresa.  Hybrid  Tea  (Alex.  Dickson 
and  Sons). — Colour  apricot  orange. 
Flowers  semi  -  double,  with  golden 
anthers.  Apparently  of  good  consti- 
tution, very  sweet  scented.  An  attrac- 
tive decorative  Rose.  As  seen  at 
Xewtownards  it  was  very  promising, 
and  was  well  staged  at  Holland  Park 
Show. 

Duchess  of  Wellington,  Hybrid  Tea 
(Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons). — As  seen  at 
Xewtownards  the  colour  was  deep 
saffron  yellow,  inclining  to  orange  as 
the  bloom  develops.  Flowers  thin, 
but  with  great  depth  of  petal ;  fragrant. 
Like  Betty,  this  variety  will  occasion- 
ally pro  luce  a  flower  suitable  for 
exhibition,  but  it  is  more  adapted  for 
the  garden,  especially  owing  to  its 
distinct  and  striking  colour.  Well 
staged  at  Holland  Park. 

F.  R.  Patsar,  Hybrid  Tea  (Alex. 
Dickson  and  Sons). — Colour  distinct, 
creamy  buff,  with  pink  shade  on  back 
of  petals.  Flowers  well  formed, 
pointed.  Wood  a  bronze  green, 
vigorous  erect  growth.  This  Rose, 
on  account  of  its  colour,  attracted 
my  attention  six  years  ago.  It  is  not 
full  enough  at  present  to  be  quite 
satisfactory. 

Mrs.  Arthur  Muni,  Hybrid  Tea 
(Alex.    Dickson  and  Sons).  — Colour         the  cilici*s  snowdrop 


ivory  white,  shaded  buff.  Very  free  flowering, 
compact  erect  growth.  Flowers  globular,  full 
and  fragrant. 

Kita  Weldon,  Tea  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons). — 
Colour  bright  cream,  edged  blush.  Flowers  of 
fair  size,  deep  petalled  and  full.  Will  probably 
be  found  useful  for  exhibition.  Awarded  a  gold 
medal,  Xational  Rose  Society. 

Messrs.  Dickson  purpose  introducing  the  fol- 
lowing novelties  in  the  present  year.  The 
descriptions  are  based  on  the  report  of  the 
raisers  ;  the  writer  does  not  remember  seeing 
them  : 

Lady  Hchester,  Hybrid  Tea. — Colour  carmine 
pink.  Very  free  flowering.  Sturdy  growth,  with 
thick  mildew-proof  foliage. 

G.  H.  Hammond,  Hybrid  Tea. — Colour  glow- 
ing crimson-scarlet.  Strong  Rose  perfume. 
Flowers  full,  good  form,  imbricated.  Growth 
moderately  robust.  An  exhibition  variety,  best 
on  maidens. 

Walter  Speed,  Hybrid  Tea.  — Colour  deep  lemon, 
shading  to  white  as  the  flower  develops.  High 
pointed  centre,  free  flowering,  fragrant.  Growth 
erect.  Stated  to  be  an  improved  Antoine 
Rivoire. 

Mrs.  Hubert  Taylor,  Tea. — Ciolour  shell  pink, 
edged  ivory  white.  Strong  Tea  perfume. 
Flowers  well  finished,  carried  on  long  footstalks. 
Growth  upright,  vigorous. 

Jamxs  Coey,  Hybrid  Tea. — Colour  pink,  with 
white-tipped  petals.  Flowers  well  formed.  Very 
floriferous,  sturdy  growth,  purple  wood,  dark 
green  foliage. 

Among  so  many  promising  seedlings  it  is 
impossible  to  do  more  than  name  a  few  which 
claimed  a  record  in  my  note-book.  These  are  as 
follows : 

Mrs.  Charles  Cuatice  Harrison,  Hybrid  Tea. — 
Something  after  the  style  of  Farbenkonigin,  but 
apparently  fuller  and  more  vigorous. 


IN   A    SCOTTISH    G.\RDEN. 


>S.  T.  Wright,  Hybrid  Tea. — Colour  creamy 
yellow.  Free  flowering.  Vigorous  growth. 
Will  probably  make  an  exhibition  variety. 

Ftmie  Hurst,  Hybrid  Tea. — Remarkable  for 
its  very  strong,  Holly-like,  distinct  foliage. 

Alexander  Hill  Gray,  Tea.  —  Clolour  pale 
yellow.  Flowers  deep  petalled,  fairly  full.  A 
very  promising  Rose.  Awarded  a  gold  medal. 
National  Rose  Society,  last  September. 

George  Prince,  Hybrid  Tea.  —  Colour  pale  flesh. 
Flowers  large,  full  and  well  built.  At  Saltaire 
last  year  it  was,  as  a  back  row  bloom,  awarded  a 
silver  medal  for  the  best  Hybrid  Tea  in  the 
show.  A  most  promising  variety,  and  for  which 
there  is  probably  a  gold  medal  in  store. 

At  Portadown  the  enterprising  firm  of  Rose- 
growers,  Messrs.  Samuel  McGredy  and  Son,  is 
extensively  engaged  in  raising  new  Roses,  and 
before  very  long  some  leading  novelties  should 
be  expected.  My  visit  of  inspection  was  paid  at 
a  time  when  the  flowers  were  not  at  their  best — 
in  the  middle  of  August,  after  some  weeks  of 
continuous  drought.  Some  allowance  must 
therefore  be  made  for  blooms  produced  in  such 
weather  ;  but  the  general  impression  conveyed 
was  that  the  majority  of  the  seedlings  were  thin. 
More  fulness  was  certainly  desirable  in  the 
flowers  then  in  bloom.  The  change  in  the 
weather,  however,  had  evidently  improved  the 
blooms,  since  five  out  of  the  six  following  novel- 
ties gained  distinctions  at  the  London  exhibitions 
in  September  last  ;  certainly  a  commendable 
record. 

Duchess  oj  Devonshire,  Hybrid  Tea  (S. 
McGredy  and  Son). — Colour  shell  pink.  Resem- 
bling, both  in  form  of  flower  and  habit  of  growth, 
Caroline  Testout,  of  which  it  is  a  seedling.  A 
promising  variety  for  exhibition  purposes. 

Mrs.  Walcelield  Christie-Miller,  Hybrid  Tea 
(S.  McGredy  and  Son). — Colour  quite  distinct ; 
inside  of  petals  pale  cream,  outside  deep  rose. 
Flowers  large.  Free  flowering.  Foliage 
leathery  and  apparently  mildew -proof. 
Award  of  merit.  Royal  Horticultural 
Society. 

His  Majesty,  Hybrid  Tea  (S. 
McGredy  and  Son).  —  Colour  dark 
crimson,  something  after  the  shade  of 
Duchess  of  Bedford.  Flowers  large, 
deep  petalled,  pointed,  but  apparently 
wanting  in  substance.  Probalily  best 
in  cool  weather.  Fragrant.  A  dis- 
tinct variety  ;  attractive  on  account 
of  its  colour.  Awarded  a  gold  medal, 
National  Rose  Society,  in  September. 

Lady  Alice  Stanley,  Hybrid  Tea 
(S.  McGredy  and  Son).  -  Colour  of 
petals  inside  pale  flesh,  outside  coral 
rose,  distinct.  Flowers  produced  on 
long  footstalks,  globular  and  of  good 
substance.  Habit  of  growth  similar 
to  Caroline  Testout.  Fragrant.  Pro- 
bably will  prove  useful  for  exhibition 
as  well  as  for  the  garden.  Gold  medal, 
Xational  Rose  Society,  in  September. 
Mrs.  Alfred  Tate,  Hybrid  Tea  (S. 
McGredy  and  Son). — Colour  very  dis- 
tinct, but  somewhat  difficult  to  de- 
scribe ;  orange  salmon,  with  red 
shading.  Flo«  ers  well  formed,  pointed, 
but  lacking  in  substance,  free,  and 
said  to  be  constantly  in  flower.  In 
form  and  habit  it  seems  to  resemble 
Betty.  As  seen  at  Portadown  it  was 
attractive.  Likely  to  prove  a  good 
decorative  variety.  Award  of  merit. 
Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
in  September. 

Mrs.  E.  J.  Holland,  Hybrid  Tea 
(S.  McGredy  and  Son). — Colour  salmon 
rose.  Flowers  of  the  Lady  Ashtown 
type,  a  variety  which  it  greatly 
resembles.  As  seen  growing  in 
August  the  plants  were  a  mass  of 
bloom.  Award  of  merit.  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society,  in  September. 
{See  page  ».)  JOSEPH  H.  PembertoN. 


February  20,  1909.) 


THE    GAKDEN. 


89 


THE     GREENHOUSE. 


SEED-SOWING    UNDER    GLASS. 


~>  HE  seed  of  many  favourite  flowers 
grown  for  the  adornment  of  the 
greenhouse  and  flower  garden  should 
be  sown  early  in  the  year,  and 
preparation  for  this  work  must  be 
made  some  time  beforehand.  Clean 
pots  and  pani  of  a  suitable  size  should  be  in 
readiness,  also  a  sufficient  quantity  of  prepared 
soil.  If  these  things  are  not  to  hand  when  the 
time  arrives  for  sowing  the  seed,  the  work  is  apt 
to  be  hurried  over  and  not  performed  so 
thoroughly  as  it  should  be. 

Tuberous  Begonias  are  deservedly  popular, 
and  seed  ought  to  be  sown  at  once  to  produce 
flowering  plants  this  season.  Begonia  seed  is 
so  minute  that  great  eare  must 
be  exercised  in  handling  it,  and 
the  soil  used  should  be  finely 
pulverised.  Ample  drainage 
must  be  provided,  the  soil  made 
fairly  firm  and  the  surface  per-  ■ 
feotly  even.  A  good  plan  is  to  ■ 
sprinkle  a  thin  layer  of  white 
sand  over  the  surface,  on  which 
the  seed  may  be  easily  discerned 
as  it  is  carefully  shaken  from 
the  packets,  and  an  even  distri- 
bution may  thus  be  secured. 
Cover  the  pots  with  glass  and 
place  them  in  a  warm  tempera- 
ture, using  a  very  fine-rosed 
watering-pot  when  water  is 
required.  The  Gloxinia  is 
another  favourite  which  may 
now  be  sown,  and  the  treatment 
advised  for  Begonia  seed  is  also 
suitable  for  raising  plants  of 
this  showy  and  interesting  sub- 
ject. 

The  Bridal  Wreath  (Francoa), 
although  a  long  time  before 
flowering  when  raised  from  seed, 
always  makes  better  plants  than 
can  be  produced  from  cuttings. 
Seed  sown  now  will  produce 
nice  sturdy  flowering  plants 
during  the  summer  of  next 
year.  Salvia  splendens,  a 
most  attractive  plant  in  the 
autumn,  cin  be  raised  from  seed 
sown  now ;  the  young  plants 
should  be  transferred  to  single 
pots  as  soon  as  large  enough. 
C  )leus,  although  mostly  raised 
from  cuttings,  may  be  produced 
readily  from  seed,  and  often 
some  very  interesting  plants  are 
introduced  in  this  way.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  Zonal 
Pelargonium,  the  Fuchsia  and 
the  Chrysanthemum,  all  of  which 
may  now  be  sown  and  the  young  plints  potted 
on  as  soon  as  possible. 

D  ihlia  seed  will  produce  plants  which  will 
fln  wer  abundantly  in  the  autumn,  and  Michael- 
mas Daisies  are  easily  grown  from  seed  sown  in 
Janu  iry  in  a  temperature  of  65°.  This  is  a  quick 
way  of  raising  a  quantity  of  these  effective 
plants,  and  in  addition  to  their  use  in  the 
borJers  they  are  most  charming  grown  as  pot 
plants,  especially  the  dwarf  varieties.  Cannas 
are  disappointing  with  many  amateurs ;  but, 
providing  sufficient  heat  is  available,  there 
should  be  no  trouble  in  raising  these  plants.  A 
temperature  of  70°  is  needed.  The  seed  of  the 
Canna  has  a  very  hard  skin,  and  this  should  be 
cut  through.  In  doing  this  be  careful  to  avoid 
the  slight  depression  observable  in  each  seed,  as 
this  indicates  the  position  of  the  growing  point. 
Seed  treated  in  this  way  will  germinate  in  about 
fourteen  days,  but  without  this  attention  it 
frequently  lies  dormant  for  weeks, 


Marguerite  Carnations  are  very  beautiful,  and 
when  a  good  strain  of  seed  is  secured  many  of 
the  flow  ers  are  almost  equal  to  the  best  named 
varieties.  The  ease  wich  which  these  can  be 
raised  from  seed  and  the  short  time  required  for 
them  to  develop  into  flowering  plants  should 
induce  every  lover  of  the  Carnation  to  grow 
a  batch,  either  for  the  greenhouse  or  the  flower 
garden,  or  for  both. 

Sweet  Peas  may  be  sown  in  pots  and 
grown  on  for  planting  out,  or  for  the  adorn- 
ment of  vases,  tubs,  &c.  Do  not  sow 
thickly  ;  three  seeds  in  a  3  inch  pot  will  suffice. 
Arrange  the  pots  in  the  greenhouse  or  frame, 
place  the  seedlings  near  the  glass  and  endeavour 
to  keep  them  as  sturdy  as  possible.  Sweet  Peas 
sown  in  pots  are  often  allowed  to  become 
starved  ;  this  should  be  avoided  by  repotting 
them  as  soon  as  the  seed-pots  become  evenly 
filled  with  roots.      Light  supports  should  also  be 


being  white  and  the  disc  (central)  florets  yellow. 
0«'ing  to  the  distinct  greyish  white  margin  to 
the  leaf,  this  species  has  been  wrongly  named 
C.  marginatum,  this  being  a  very  distinct  plant 
from  the  one  illustrated.  The  plants  require  the 
same  treatment  as  our  garden  Chrysanthemum 
flowering  during  December. 

Ke.w.  A.  OSBOBN. 


TilK   NEW   WlSTER-FLOWBmNG   BEOONIA   PATRIE.     (Nattirnl  size.) 

provided  when  the  joung  plants  begin   to  grow 
freely.  C.  RusB. 


CHRYSiNTHEMUM    ORNATUM. 

The  beautiful  Chrysanthemum  depicted  in  the 
illustration  on  page  90  is  supposed  to  be  a 
native  of  Japan,  seed  having  been  received  at 
Kew  from  the  Tokyo  Botanic  Garden  in  1895. 
The  plants  raised  were  tried  in  the  open  ground, 
but  flowered  so  late  they  were  cut  down  by  frost. 
Under  glass  it  has  proved  a  useful  decorative 
subject  for  the  cool  greenhouse.  The  plant  forms 
a  bush  about  3  feet  in  height  and  as  much  through. 
Smaller  plants  may  be  obtained  by  rooting 
cuttings  late,  say,  in  March  or  April,  and  these 
can  be  allowed  to  flower  in  6-inoh  pots.  When 
not  in  bloom  the  plants  are  ornamental,  the 
under-side  and  the  margin  of  the  leaves  being 
greyish  white  in  colour.  The  flower-heads 
average   li   inches  in  diameter,  the  ray  florets 


PROPAGATING     HIPPEASTRUMS 
(AMARYLLIS)     BY    SEEDS. 

[In  answer  to  a  Gorrespond&nt.] 
As  it  is  intended  to  save  the  seeds,  the  better 
plan  will  be  to  fertilise  the  flowers  artificially. 
This  should  be  done  in  a  systematic  manner ;  that 
is  to  say,  before  doing  anything  the  operator 
should  think  out  the  probable  result  of  a  combi- 
nation of  the  two  flowers.  In  the  case  of  a 
particularly  good  flower  it  is  often  wise  to 
fertilise  it  with  its  own  pollen. 
In  this  case  some  of  the  progeny 
may  be  inferior  to  the  parent, 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  some 
may  be  superior  ;  but  one  can 
never  be  certain,  for  Dame 
Nature  draws  no  hard-and-fast 
line.  Artificial  pollination  of 
the  Hippeastrum  is  easily  carried 
out,  as  the  organs  of  generation 
form  a  conspicuous  portion  of 
the  flower.  In  the  case  of  a 
flower  intended  to  be  orofs- 
fertilised,  eare  must  be  taken  to 
remove  the  anthers  before  they 
discharge  their  pollen.  When 
the  point  of  the  stigma  gets 
sticky  is  the  time  to  apply  the 
pollen,  which  quickly  takes 
effect.  This  is  shown  by  the 
flower  rapidly  fading.  Plants 
now  in  flower  will  ripen  their 
seed  about  the  month  of  June, 
though  in  this  respect  there  is  a 
certain  amount  of  individual 
variation.  The  seeds  may  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe;  indeed, 
« e  prefer  them  treated  in  this 
way.  Clean,  well  drained  pans 
are  very  suitable  for  sowing 
the  seeds  in,  a  good  compost  for 
the  purpose  being  made  up  of 
one  part  of  loam  to  one  part  of 
leaf-mould  or  peat  and  half  a 
part  of  sand.  The  pans  should 
be  filled  to  within  half  an  inch 
of  the  rim  with  this  compost, 
which  must  be  pressed  down 
moderately  firm  and  made  quite 
level.  Then  place  the  seeds 
thereon  at  from  one-half  to 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  apart, 
and  cover  with  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  of  fine  soil.  Then  water 
through  a  fine  rose  and  place  in 
a  warm  house,  that  is  to  say.  in 
a  structure  in  which  a  temperature  of  60°  to  75° 
is  maintained.  Of  course,  they  must  be  shaded 
from  the  sun.  The  young  plants  will  quickly 
make  their  appearance,  when  the  pans  should  be 
placed  in  a  good  light  position  but,  at  the  same 
time,  shaded  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 
They  may  be  left  undisturbed  till  the  month  of 
February,  when  they  must  be  potted  singly 
into  small  pots,  using  the  same  kind  of  compost 
as  that  in  which  the  seeds  were  sown. 


BEGONIA  PATRIE. 
This  Begonia  will  be  valued  chiefly  for  its  free 
winter-flowering  properties,  and  viewed  from 
this  standpoint  it  is  an  undoubted  acquisition. 
It  has  an  excellent  compact  habit,  the  rather 
small  flowers  being  a  sort  of  coppery  red  colour. 
It  was  shown  before  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  on  the  l'2th  ult.  by  M.  Lemoine,  Nancy, 
when  it  received  an  award  of  merit, 


oo 


TITli;     (GARDEN. 


[February  20,  1909. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN, 


THE    CILTCrAN    SNOWDROP. 
(Galinthus    ciLicrctJS. ) 
*^  H    ^  0   the   admirer   of  the   Snowdrop  this 
I  chaste  flower  is  always  welcome,  and 

I  in  the  dull  days  of  winter  its  appear- 

I  ance  is  greeted  with  delight,  not  only 

I  because  of  the  innate  beauty  of  the 

blossoms,  but  also  because  it  presages 
the  advent  of  brighter  days  with  their  flowers. 
Nor  can  we  well  have  too  many  forms  of  the 
Snowdrop,  and  anything  which  will  prolong  its 
season  will  be  a  gain  to  many  of  our  gardens. 

In  the  Cilieian  Snowdrop,  which  was  introduced 
a  few  years  ago,  we  have  one  of  much  beauty, 
and  one  also  which  anticipates  considerably  our 
own  "  Fair  Maids  of  February,"  inasmuch  as  it 
flowers  in  the  end,  instead  of  at  the  beginning,  of 
the  year,  although  generally  lasting  into  January. 
In  some  seasons,  after  being  established, 
it  flowers  in  November  and  December, 
and  when  newly  imported  it  should 
bloom  early  in  November. 

Although  imported  bulbs  of  Galanthus 
ciliciouB  give  flowers  of  variable  size  and 
are  irregular  in  their  time  of  flowering, 
all  are  so  beautiful  that  they  may  be 
added  to  one's  garden  with  confidence. 
Like  the  greater  number  of  the  earliest 
Snowdrops,  its  flowers  are  inclined  to 
anticipate  the  leaves  ;  but  in  other 
respects  the  Cilieian  Snowdrop  much 
resembles  our  common  Snowdrop, 
Galanthus  nivalis.  The  deep  green 
leaves  are  of  much  beauty,  and  the 
drooping  flowers  of  virgin  whiteness 
(except  for  the  usual  green  markings) 
are  of  the  highest  beauty  and  grace. 

This  Snowdrop,  which  is  perfectly 
hardy,  can  be  purchased  from  several 
dealers  in  bulbs,  and  should  be  planted 
at  a  depth  of  from  2  inches  to  4  inches 
or  ."i  inches.  I  cultivate  it  on  a  low 
rockery  on  a  level  terrace  and  in  soil 
composed  of  loam  and  sand,  with  some 
small  stones  intermixed. 

DumfriiK.  S.   Arnott. 


back  was  occupied  by  the  Tulip.  Such  is  the  irony 
of  fate.  Nay,  further,  the  fiaflfodil  with  only  one 
flower  on  a  stem,  which  George  Glenny  ("Pro- 
perties of  Flowers  and  Plants,''  page  33,  Second 
Edition,  1.S5H)  did  not  consider  a  fit  subject  for 
exhibition,  has  quite  eclipsed  her  many-headed 
sisters  in  the  florists'  estimation,  and  the 
Cinderella  of  the  fifties  is  the  bride  of  the  new 
century. 

But  not  only  has  the  Daffodil  supplanted  the 
Tulip  as  a  show  flower,  it  is  doing  much  the 
sime  with  regard  to  the  Hyacinth  as  an  occu- 
pant of  our  glass  houses  and  our  rooms  in  the 
early  months  of  the  year.  I  think  the  universal 
experience  of  dealers  in  bulbs  is  that  Hyacinth 
sales  are  decreasing  and  that  Daffodil  sales  are 
increasing.  I  am  sorry  for  the  Dutch,  for  the 
Hyacinth  is  par  excellence  the  flower  of  Holland. 
It  is  the  flower  that  they  can  rear  and  cultivate 
better  than  anyone  else.  The  change  must  make 
a  difference  to  them,  and  the  fact  that  their 
great   bulb   organisation   is   offering  magnificent 


DOUBLE    DAISIES    IN    POTS. 

It  is  surprising  how  many  amateurs 
who  possess  a  greenhouse  will  lavish 
any  amount  of  care  and  labour  on  some 
tender  plant  to  coax  even  an  inferior 
bloom  from  it,  and  yet  ignore  the  many 
beautiful  hardy  plants  that  might  easily 
be  used  for  the  embellishment  of  such 
a  structure  at  a  season  when  flowers 
are  none  too  plentiful.  Such  a  plant  is 
the  common  double  Daisy,  of  which  an 
illustration  is  given.  Good  plants  lifted 
now  with  moderate  balls  of  soil,  and 
firmly  potted  in  well-drained  pots  of 
a  size  large  enough  to  comfortably  take  the  ball 
of  the  plant  and  a  little  new  soil,  will  give  excel- 
lent results  in  the  near  future.  It  is  well  to 
stand  the  plants  in  a  cold  frame  for  a  week  or 
two  after  the  potting  before  placing  them  in  the 
greenhouse,  and  a  high  temperature  and  close 
atmosphere  must  be  avoided. 


A    NEW   CIIRYSANTHEMCM 


(C.    OBNATUM) 
AT    KKW. 


[N    THE    (iREENHOtJSE 


DAFFODIL  NOTES. 
Shows. — A  Digression  and  a  List. 
A  LIST  of  the  Daffodil  shows  that  are  to  be  held 
in  the  present  year  of  grace  may  be  useful  as 
well  as  interesting.  Although,  as  far  as  I  can 
gather,  there  are  no  newcomers  to  be  welcomed 
into  the  little  circle,  the  extended  culture  of  this 
popular  flower  is  unmistakal)ly  shown  in  the 
schedules  of  all  the  spring  shows,  wliere  nowadays 
a  certain  number  of  classes  are  always  allocated  to 
it.   It  takes  the  place  to-day  that  two  generatioijs 


prizes   at  Vincent   Square    for  Hyacinths    must  i  work 


mean  that  this  difference  is  beginning  to  be 
felt.  One  never  likes  to  prophesy,  but  if  I  read 
the  signs  of  the  times  aright,  their  salvation  will 
be  the  small  "miniature"  bulbs,  if  only  they  can 
be  put  on  the  market  at  a  low  figure.  They 
have  a  gracefulness  which  is  as  pleasing  as 
the  stiffness  of  the  orthodox  big  spike  is  irritating. 
I  am  glad  to  say  our  own  Horticultural  Society 
recognises  the  importance  of  what  I  can  only 
call  forced  Daffodils,  although  I  can  almost  hear 
the  disdainful  voice  of  dear  old  James  Walker 
muttering  '•forced,"  should  he  chance  to  read 
these  notes. 

The  great  market  grower  would  probably  call 
it  opened  under  glass,  but  that  is  rather  a  vague 
term,  and  so  I  fall  back  upon  "forced  " — only, 
of  course,  it  must  be  understood  by  those  who  are 
not  experienced  gardeners  that  it  is  one  thing 
to  have  a  Daffodil  in  flower  in  March  and  quite 
another  to  h^ve  jt  in  .Tanuary. 


Well  1  there  is  to  be  a  forced  bulb  show  at 
Vincent  Square  on  March  9,  and  Daffodils  are 
sure  to  be  present  in  large  quantities.  If  the 
response  of  exhibitors  is  anything  like  what 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  hope  for,  it 
should  be  a  sight  well  worth  seeing.  (Readers, 
please  note  the  date. ) 

Coming  now  to  Dj,if  idil  shows  proper,  the 
following  is  a  hst  of  those  which  are  to  be  held 
this  spring  :  Brecon,  at  Brecon  on  April  21  ; 
Cornwall,  at  Truro  on  Ma.rch  30  and  31  ;  Devon, 
at  Plymouth  on  April  20  and  21  ;  Glamorgan,  at 
Cardiff  on  April  16  ;  Huntingdon,  at  Hunting- 
don on  April  27  ;  Ipswich,  at  Ipswich  on 
April  21  :  Kent,  at  Tunbridge  Wells  about  the 
third  week  in  April  ;  Lincolnshire,  at  Spilsby 
about  the  third  week  in  April  ;  Midland,  at 
Birmingham  on  April  22  and  23  ;  Presteign,  at 
Presteign  on  April  29 :  St.  Keverne,  at  St. 
Keverne  about  the  end  of  March. 

A  feature  of  particular  interest  in  1909  will  be 
the  seeing  how  the  new  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  Daffodil  classification  works 
in  practical  life.  Three  societies  have 
adopted  it,  viz  ,  the  Brecon,  the  Devon 
and  the  Midland— enough  to  give  it  a 
good  practical  trial.  I  am  sanguine 
enough  to  fully  endorse  what  the  Kent 
secretary  (whose  society,  it  will  be 
noted,  has  not  yet  adopted  it)  wrote 
to  me  when  he  sent  his  schedule : 
"  I  think  the  new  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  list  will  be  a  great  boon  to 
secretaries,  judges  and  show  committees 
generally."  As,  however,  there  are 
some  who  do  not  view  it  with  such 
favour,  I  hope  to  deal  very  fully  with 
the  subject  in  my  next  notes.  Apart 
from  the  necessary  alterations  that  had 
to  be  made  to  bring  the  old  schedules 
into  conformity  with  the  new  classifi- 
cation, there  is,  on  the  whole,  very 
little  change  in  any.  Brecon  and 
Glamorgan  still  cater  for  the  splendid 
local  competition  which  is  their 
distinguishing  feature  ;  Truro  and 
Plymouth  will  again  be  pictures  of 
neatness  in  their  excellent  staging 
arrangements,  and  Daffodils  will  have 
as  competitors  great  masses  of  Rho- 
dodendrons and  flowering  shrubs  ; 
Birmingham  will  once  more  be  full 
of  beautifully  dressed  (Ubutavles  and 
Daffodil  Lords  (Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  deputation)  will  be  there  to 
see  ;  St.  Keverne,  in  far-off  Cornwall, 
will  gather  her  children  and  her  parents 
under  her  wing  for  a  pleasant  afternoon 
of  tea  and  flowers  ;  Spilsby  will  be  the 
same  successful  Daffodil  show  ;  Hunt- 
ingdon will  make  another  advance  in 
size  and  favour  ;  Ipswich — decorative 
Ipswich — with  its  ample  provision  for 
the  ladies,  will,  I  hope,  be  the  ren- 
dezvous of  a  large  array  of  peaceful 
suffragettes  to  admire  their  sisters 
and    see    the   Dafl'odils    and    pot    plants 


of  their  neighbours ;  Presteign,  in  Mid- Wales, 
will  once  more  be  a  sort  of  working  model 
of  a  go-ahead  small  country  show  ;  while 
Tunbridge  Wells,  favoured  with  a  more  genial 
fortnight  before  her  show,  will  find  that  her 
old  exhibitors  have  returned,  and  that 
the  residents  of  the  old  watering-place  have 
begun  to  appreciate  the  rich  floral  treat  that  is 
provided  for  them.  With  such  a  list  of  sho«  s 
exhibitors  of  Daffodils  ought  to  have  plenty  of 
scope  for  displaying  their  flowers  to  the  best 
advantage,  the  diversity  in  the  dates  being  an 
advantage  rather  than  otherwise.  In  any  case 
we  may  safely  expect  some  excellent  exhibitions, 
which  all  lovers  of  the  Daffodil  should  make  a 
point  of  attending,  and  thus  help  in  a  practical 
manner  the  various  committees  in  the  work 
they  have  undertaken,  and  which  will  have  an 
influence  for  good  on  the  culture  of  spring 
flowers  in  general,  .JosErH  Jacoh. 


February  20,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


01 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


FRUIT   NOTES. 

RENEWING  SUPPORTS.— One  of  the 
I  most  important  of  the  many  details 
connected  with  the  culture  of  fruit 
is  the  etficient  support  of  the 
^  trees,  for  if  they  are  allowed  to 
swing  too  freely  in  the  wind  the 
roots  must  inevitably  be  more  or  less  seriously 
damaged,  with  the  natural  result  that  th.e 
progress  is  far  from  being  what  it  ought  to  be. 
It  is  not  only  imperative  that  the  trees  shall 
have  proper  stakes  placed  to  them  when  they 
are  first  planted,  but  that  these  shall  be  main- 
tained in  perfect  condition  until  Fuch  time  as  the 
strong  anchor  roots  have  secured  sufficient  hold 
to  pi'event  tlxe  tree  moving.  Thus  it  becomes  an 
annual  necessity  to  carefully  examine  all  the 
stakes  attached  to  the  trees,  and  should  a  tie  be 
defective  it  must  be  instantly  replaced  by  a 
new  one,  while  if  it  is  the  stake  itself  that  has 
perished  or  is  weakening  at  the  base,  this  should 
be  immediately  removed.  In  the  latter  event  it 
is  always  wise  to  insert  the  point  of  the  new 
stake  into  the  hole  made  by  the  preceding  one 
and  thus  preclude  the  possibility  of  any  material 
damage  being  done  to  the  roots.  For  attaching 
the  stem  to  the  stake  there  are  now  several 
serviceable  devices  on  the  market ;  but  the  old 
form  of  a  piece  of  sacking  or  other  protective 
material  to  prevent  rubbing  and  then  stout  tar 
or  other  string  answers  well  provided  that  the 
ligatures  are  not  allowed  to  become  harbourages 
for  the  various  pests  which  visit  the  trees. 

Final  Winter  Washing. — It  will  not  now 
be  long  ere  we  shall  see  abundant  evidences  of 
vigorous  activity  in  the  roots,  and  as  soon  as  the 
buds  commence  to  swell  freely  there  is  invariably 
an  element  of  danger  in  the  application  of  any 
wa^ih  that  must  be  dressed  on  with  a  brush 
The  caustic  soda  washings  are  so  advantageous 
that  the  grower  who  follows  them  up  properly 
reaps  a  substantial  reward,  and  if  it  is  thought 
that  another  one  would  do  good  this  season,  let 
the  work  be  immediately  put  in 
hand.  No  effort  must  be  spared 
to  ensure  the  bristles  of  the  brush 
reaching  right  into  all  crannies 
and  crevices,  for  it  is  in  such 
positions  that  the  enemies  delight 
to  ensconce  themselves.  To  apply 
on  the  rougher  parts  of  the  bark 
through  a  sprayer  does  a  certain 
amount  of  good,  no  doubt ;  but  it 
cin  never  prove  fully  effectual ,  as  the 
liquid  will  not  reach  the  protected 
pests.  To  the  more  inaccessible 
portions  of  the  trees  the  wash  must 
be  directed  in  the  form  of  the 
finest  possible  spray  or  film,  as  in 
this  state  it  hangs  on  to  everything 
that  it  touches,  whereas  if  it  is 
coarse  much  of  it  will  run  down  the 
stems  and  do  little,  if  any,  good. 

Surface  Soil.  —  To  a  perfectly 
natural  fear  of  doing  serious  injury 
to  the  fine  roots  situated  near  the 
surface  must  be  ascribed  the  fact 
that  many  people  hesitate  to  do  any 
cultivation  at  all,  and  allow  the  soil 
above  the  roots  of  their  fruit  trees  to 
settle  down  into  a  solid  mass  impene- 
trable alike  to  moisture  and  air. 
This  state  of  affairs  is  by  no  means 
conducive  to  continued  success,  for 
the  roots  are  driven  gradually  deeper 
and  deeper  until  they  are  so  low 
that  they  are  beyond  the  control  of 
the  grower  entirely.  It  the  trees 
are  to  remain  in  excellent  condition 
it  is  necessary  that  the  surface  shall 
be  kept  loose,  and  to  this  end  it 
should  be  lightly  pointed  over  with 
,1   fork   as    frequently    as    may   be 


deemed  desirable  or  as  is  convenient.  There 
is  absolutely  no  danger  of  doing  harm,  pro- 
vided that  the  tines  of  the  fork  are  only 
put  in  2  inches  or  so,  and  the  looseness  thus 
created  will  be  of  substantial  benefit  in  en- 
couraging the  free  admission  of  the  essential  air 
and  water.  Of  course,  if  the  operator  takes  a 
spade  and  digs  to  a  depth  of  1  foot  many  roots 
will  be  broken,  but  even  this  may  be  regarded  as 
preferable  to  having  the  surface  as  hard  as  the 
proverbial  macadamised  road. 

Late  Planting. — Whenever  the  weather  is 
favourable  and  the  state  of  the  soil  will  permit 
of  it,  the  planting  which  still  remains  to  be  com- 
pleted must  be  pushed  forward  with  the  utmost 
speed,  as  the  sooner  the  roots  are  in  position 
the  better  will  the  progress  be  during  the  first 
season.  In  no  circumstances  must  the  work  be 
scamped — do  it  well  if  the  finest  results  are 
desired.  Fruit-grower. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

BEUSSELS    SPROUTS    AND    THEIR 
CULTURE. 

THIS  useful  vegetable  requires  a  long 
season  of  growth,  and  in  order  to 
secure  this  some  seed  should  be  sown 
early  in  February.  I  prefer  raising 
the  first  batch  under  glass,  not  neces- 
sarily in  heat,  but  in  a  frame  or  pit, 
and  if  only  a  small  quantity  be  required  they  may 
be  raised  in  a  box,  which  can  be  placed  on  a  shelf 
in  a  cool  house  ;  but  if  a  large  qunntity  is  needed 
a  light  or  two  should  be  set  apart  for  them.  As 
soon  as  the  position  has  been  selected  sow  the 
seed  on  some  fine  soil,  lotmand  leaf-mould  mixed 
in  nearly  equal  quantities,  or  soil  from  the 
potting  bench  will  suit  them  admirably.  Sow 
thinly,  so  thit  the  seedlings  will  not  be  crowded, 
or  they  will  be  weak,  and  cover  over  slightly 
with  soil  that  has  been  put  through  a  small- 
meshed  sieve.  Admit  air  when  the  weather  is  mild 
and  dry.  After  the  seedlings  are  up  and  large 
enough  thiy  >h  luld  hive  more  air,  drawing  the 


lights  off  every  day  when  the  weather  admits  of  so 
doing.  When  large  enough  they  must  be  pricked 
out  on  to  a  warm  border,  under  a  wall  or  hedge, 
into  soil  similar  to  that  in  which  the  seeds  were 
sown.  They  should  be  allowed  4  inches  or 
5  inches  from  plant  to  plant,  in  which  space  they 
will  make  nice  sturdy  specimens.  When  they 
have  filled  the  allotted  space  they  can  be  planted 
out  where  they  are  to  stand.  The  plot  ought  to 
have  been  well  manured  and  deeply  dug  or 
trenched  the  previous  autumn  and  left  rough, 
I  and  the  soil  should  now  be  forked  back  on  dry 
I  days,  taking  precautions  not  to  trample  on  the 
ground  in  wet  weather.  On  a  convenient  day 
mark  out  the  rows  3  feet  6  inches  or  4  feet  apart, 
I  take  up  the  plants  with  a  trowel,  so  that  each 
has  a  little  ball  of  earth  and  roots,  and  plant 
1  inch  deeper  than  they  were  before,  and  the 
same  distance  apart  as  in  the  rows.  Make  them 
firm  by  pressing  the  soil  down  round  them  with 
the  hands,  and  after  the  planting  sprinkle  a  little 
mixture  of  soot  and  lime  round  each  plant  as  a  pre- 
ventive against  the  ravages  of  slugs  and  worms. 

I  have  tried  many  varieties,  and  have  found 
none  better  than  Carter's  Perfection,  Sutton's 
Perfection  and  the  Aigburth,  the  last-named 
being  a  later  variety  and  exceptionally  hardy. 
A  general  sowing  may  be  made  about  the 
middle  of  March,  but  after  that  time,  unless  we 
get  exceptionally  kind  weather,  they  do  not  get  • 
large  enough  to  pay  for  the  trouble,  as  these  plants 
should  have  a  stem  3  feet  6  inches  to  4  feet  in 
length  to  make  them  really  profitable.  Brussels 
Sprouts  will  stand  any  amount  of  feeding  in  a 
hot  summer.  It  may  be  thought  by  some  that  the 
space  advised  is  too  much,  but  plants  grown  under 
these  conditions  will  fill  up  the  ground  entirely. 

It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  put  out  some  early 
Potatoes  between  the  rows,  such  as  First  Crop  or 
Early  May,  and  these  can  be  taken  up  quite 
early  and  without  injuring  the  Brussels  Sprouts. 
I  have  done  this  repeatedly,  and  with  good 
results.  A  crop  of  Potatoes  such  as  this  is  useful 
to  take  up  early  in  the  season  and  put  in  tin 
boxes  and  bury  again  for  use  as  young  or  new 
Potatoes  at  Christmas.  W.  A.  Cook. 

Leonardslee  Gardens,  Horsham,  Stissex. 


A   FINE   rOTFOL  OF  BOUBLB   PA1SIE3. 


92 


THE     GARDEN. 


[February  20,  1909. 


G^RT>ENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDKN    WORK    WEKK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Under  this  head- 
ing the  rookery  may  safely  be  included, 
and  the  present  is  an  excellent  time 
to  give  many  of  the  occupants  a  little 
attention  ;  but  the  wise  gardener  will 
refrain  from  dealing  with  any  of  the 
work   while    the    soil    is   frozen,.     During   open 
weather,  however,  there  will  be  much  planting 
■to   be   done,  and   top-dressing   will   also   be   an 
important   feature.      It   will    be   found   that    in 
many  instances    the    heavy    winter   rains    have 
washed  much  soil  away  from  the  roots  of  plants 
that  are  growing  in  elevated  positions  ;    conse- 
quently this  must  be  replaced  if  the  plants  arc  to 
give  us  their  very  best  returns  in  the 
way   of    flowers   or   foliage,   or   both. 
Owing  to  the  great  variety  of  plants 
grown  in  rockeries,  their  demands  as 
to   soil  mixtures    will,    of   course,    be 
widely  divergent,  hence  it  is  of  little 
use  advising   any   particular   mi.xture 
where   space   is    limited.      Each  kind 
must    have     the     soil    which    experi- 
ence has  taught   us  they   prefer,   and 
the    beet    materials    only    should    be 
employed,  working  the  soil  tirmly  into 
the    crevices     and    well     among    any 
exposed  roots  encountered.     Birds  are 
frequently     troublesome     with     early 
flowers  on  rockeries,  and  their  depre- 
dations must  be  stopped  by  means  nf 
black    cotton    stretched    from    sticks 
some  4  inches  to  6  inches  above  the 
flowers.     This  is  at  once  effective  and 
inconspicuous. 

Greenhoiise  and  Goiiservalory. — Con- 
tinue the  repotting  and  top-dressing 
of  foliage  plants  as  advised  last  week, 
as  the  sooner  the  work  is  completed 
the  better.  When  these  are  finished, 
other  specimen  pot  plants  may  be 
started,  and  all  such  work  ought  to  be 
finished  by  the  middle  of  March.  The 
present  is  an  excellent  time  for  sowing 
seeds  of  such  plants  as  Torenias, 
Rhodanthes,  Browallias,  Celosias  and 
Cockscombs,  Verbenas  .ind  other  sub- 
jects that  will  make  the  greenhouse 
gay  in  late  summer  and  autumn.  All 
those  named  do  well  in  pots  J>  inches 
in  diameter,  and  it  is  usually  best  to 
sow  the  seeds  thinly  direct  into  these, 
except  in  the  ease  of  the  Celosias  and 
Cockscombs,  which  should  be  sown 
two  or  three  seeds  in  a  'iinch  pot, 
eventually  thinning  the  seedlings  to 
one  in  each  pot,  these  being  moved 
into  larger  sizes  as  growth  commences. 
The  other  plants  may  be  thinned  to 
three,  four,  or  five  in  each  pnt,  and  be  thus 
allowed  to  grow  and  flower.  Use  good  soil  com- 
posed of  loam,  two  parts  ;  well-decayed  manure 
and  coarse  sand,  half  a  part  each. 

VegrJablr  Gardni.  —  In  open  weather  this 
department  will  be  getting  a  busy  one,  as  there 
will  be  much  in  the  way  of  seeds  to  sow,  or,  at 
least,  beds  to  be  prepared  for  their  reception.  A 
sowing  of  Radishes  may  now  be  made  with  fair 
prospects  of  success.  Make  the  surface  of  the 
bed  fine  and  even,  and  then  scatter  the  seeds 
rather  thickly  broadcast,  raking  them  well  in 
afterwards.  When  the  surface  has  dried  a  little 
it  should  he  trodden  moderately  firm,  as  this 
prevents,  to  some  extent,  birds  scratching  out 
the  seeds.  Of  course,  where  the  soil  is  naturally 
heavy  and  wet  it  will  be  useless  to  sow  yet.  The 
reason  rather  thick  sowing  is  advised  is   that  at 


this  early  period  of  the  year  germination  is  very  PRUNINO  BLACK  CURRANT  BUSHES, 
slow,  and  many  of  the  seeds  or  seedlings  are  Bush  fruits,  of  which  family  the  Black  Currant 
devoured  by  birds,  slugs  or  other  garden  pests.  ,  is  a  well-known  member,  are  grown  in  most 
On  well-drained  soils  Onions  and  Lettuces  may  j  gardens  that  are  a  few  miles  removed  from  the 
also  be  sown.  The  bed  for  the  first  named  must ;  densely-populated  areas  of  most  towns,  and  this 
be  made  firm,  and  the  seeds  should  be  sown  fact  proves  most  conclusively  that  thej'  are  very 
rather  thinly  in  drills  1  inch  deep  and  1.5  inches  '  popular  :  but  how  seldom  is  their  treatment 
apart.  Lettuces  may  either  be  sown  in  rows  properly  understood  1  Our  concern  now  is  to 
where  they  are  intended  to  grow,  thinning  the  j  assist  the  beginner  in  pruning  his  Black  Currant 
seedlings   early,    or   in   beds,    from   whence   the  i  bushes.    It  is  common  in  many  gardens  to  see  not 


plants   are   derived    for   transplanting   later.      I  ; 
prefer  the  former   method   at   this   season,  and  I 
always   sow   rather   thickly.       By    this    method 
early   salad  in   the   form   of    young    Lettuces  is 
obtained    from    the    thinnings.       A    sowing    of 


a  few  worthless  old  bashes  of  Black  Currants,  and 
very  few-  younger  ones  to  succeed  them.  It  is 
not  easy  to  give  a  reason  for  this,  especially  as 
their  culture  is  not  in  the  least  difficult  to 
understand  and  carry  into  effect.  We  fear  this 
failure  may  bo  largely  attributed  to 
^^^.  want  of  application  by  the  grower 
J  :    ..*,'   ;  A'ys.^a'  '    ;■'.  >     '^SS^         or    hesitancy    in   using   the    pruning 

J  .  knife  freely  when   the  pruning  period 

comes  round.  The  best  Black  Cur- 
rants are  produced  on  bushes  that  are 
somewhat  drastically  treated  in  this 
respect.  It  is  not  possible  to  bring 
into  being  profitable  bushes  by  a  mere 
thinning  out  of  the  growths.  Fore- 
shortening or  cutting  back  growths 
that  are  exhausted  by  age  is  the 
treatment  that  is  necessary,  and  in 
carrying  out  this  very  necessary  work 
a  beginner  may  have  a  fear  of 
damaging  the  future  prospects  of  his 
trees.  Why  such  a  view  should  be 
held  it  is  difficult  to  understand. 

In  the  summer  succeeding  the 
planting  of  cuttings,  each  one  should 
emit  three  or  four  shoots,  and  in  this 
way  the  foundation  of  useful  bushes 
will  be  created.  These  one  year  old 
bushes  will  have  to  be  pruned  the 
following  year,  preferably  in  late 
January  or  early  February.  The 
growths  of  the  previous  summer  must 
be  shortened  back  about  half  their 
length,  and  this  will  have  the  effect 
of  causing  two  or  three  fresh  growths 
to  develop  on  each  of  the  original 
shoots. 

Having  thus  dealt  with  the 
pruning  of  Black  Currant  bushes  up 
to  their  second  year,  it  is  necessary 
now  to  show  how  to  treat  them  in 
subsequent  seasons.  Assuming  the 
young  trees  were  pruned  and  cut 
back  as  we  suggested  above,  their 
future  treatment  should  not  be  a 
very  difficult  matter  for  the  novice 
to  understand.  It  may  be  well  here 
to  remind  readers  that  they  not  seldom 
purchase  their  bushes  from  the  nur- 
seryman when  they  are  about  three 
years  old,  so  that  our  remarks  will 
Brussels  Sprouts  and  Cauliflower  should  be  made  apply  especially  to  such  specimens.  To  simplify 
under  glass,  using  shallow  bnxes  filled  with  good    the   question    of    pruning    we   have    severed    a 


MALL  BRANCH  UK  A  BLACK 
CIRKANT  BISH  BEFdKK 
BKINU  I'Kl'NED.  NHTE  THE 
\VE\K   r.KOWTHS  Tn    BE  CUT 

HUT 


-THE  SAME  BRANCH  AFTER 
PRUNING  HAS  BEEN 
DONE  ANIl  SHOWINO  THE 
OROWTHS   RETAINED. 


brinoh  of  a  Black  Currant  bush,  to  show 
the  method  of  dealing  with  each  branch, 
which  will,  of  course,  apply  to  the  bush  as  a 
whole.  Fig.  1  shows  a  small  branch  with  three 
or  four  shoots  of  varying  worth.  The  inexperi- 
enced  grower   would   probably  be    disposed    to 


soil  for  the  purpose.  The  seedlings  must,  how- 
ever, be  kept  near  the  glass  and  have  an  abund- 
ance of  air  from  the  commencement. 

Fr>iU  Gardm. — The  pruning  of  Currants  should 
be  proceeded  with  as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  any 

staking  or  nailing  of  trees  not  yet  done  must  be  permit  each  of  these  shoots  to  remain,  as  they  do 

completed  without  delay,  as  the  buds  will  soon  not  appear  to   be  overcrowded.      We  have  to 

be   bursting,  afler  which   such    work   is   almost  remember,  however,  that  when  the  bush  is  in  full 

certain  to  be  dangerous  to  the  well-being  of  the  leafage,  very  little  sun  and  air  could  get  among  the 

trees.     Where  canker  is  present  in  Apple  trees,  growths  were  they  left  undisturbed,  and  as  these 

the  wounds  should  be  pared  out  clean  and  right  two  influences   are  so  highly  beneficial   to  both 

into  live  tissue,  then  co.ited  over  with  tar.  Stock-  bush  and  fruit  a  thinning  out  of  the  growths  is 
holm  for  preference,  although  ordinary  coal  i  absolutely  essential.  For  this  reason  the  less 
tar    answers    very    well.     Very     badly   infested  '  important  and  undesirable  growths  are  cut  out. 

branches  will    be    best   cut   clean  out   from  the  Fig.  '2  shows  the  same  growth  as  represented  in 

tree.  H.  Fig.  1  after  the  pruning  is  completed. 


February  20,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


93 


In  pruning  Black  Currants  we  have  to  remember 
that  new  shoots  are  retained  and  old  branches 
and  weak  shoots  cut  out.  A  severe  prunins;  pays, 
as  a  greater  weight  of  fruit  will  be  produced 
by  these  means.  We  prefer  bushes  that  have 
branches  starting  from  the  base,  rather  than 
those  on  a  stem  as  is  encouraged  with  the  Red  and 
White  Currants  and  Gooseberries.  Fig.  3  re- 
presents a  section  of  a  large  bush  and  illustrates 
the  character  of  Black  Currants  when  they  are 


3. — SECTION  OF  AN   OLD   BLACK   COERANT    BUSH 
BEFORE   PRnNING. 

not  severely  dealt  with.  The  reader  will  note 
the  large  number  of  weak,  undesirable  growths 
that  have  developed  and  how,  if  neglected  another 
season,  the  chances  are  that  the  bush  will  be  in  a 
much-enfeebled  condition.  We  have  endeavoured 
to  show  in  Fig.  4  the  treatment  such  a  bush  should 
receive.  Note  the  numerous  shoots  that  have 
been  cut  out,  and  the  more  capable  appearance 
of  the  bush  as  a  consequence.  We  might  have 
treated  it  to  much  more  drastic  pruning,  but  for 
ordinary  purposes  the  system  of  thinning  out  the 
older  and  less  promising  growths  will  suflBce. 
All  straggling  growths  should  be  cut  back  to 
well-placed  shoots  nearer  the  principal  stems,  as 
this  tends  to  strengthen  the  centres  ;  at  the  same 
time  it  prevents  the  bushes  from  overhanging 
one  another. 

The  culture  of  Black  Currants  is  simple 
enough.  They  delight  in  being  fed  with  pig  or 
cow  manure  of  the  richest  kind,  and  a  dressing 
of  fish  manure  gives  a  splendid  impetus  to  their 
growth.  A  heavy  dressing  of  manure  should  be 
dug  in  during  the  winter,  and  the  surface  soil 
levelled  down  in  early  spring.  Plant  Black  Currant 
bushes  fully  5  feet  apart,  and  give  them  a  quarter 
in  the  garden  where  the  soil  is  rich  and  lasting. 

A  GOOD  ROSE  FOR  AMATEURS. 
Now  that  so  many  good  new  Roses  are  being 
raised  and  put  on  the  market,  there  is  a  danger 
of  some  of  our  old  and  worthy  varieties  being 
overlooked  and  neglected,  hence  one  may  perhaps 
be  pardoned  for  drawing  attention  to  the  old 
and  well-tried  Gloire  de  Liijon,  which  has  several 
very  strong  points  in  its  favour.  Owing  to  its 
robust  habit  it  can  be  successfully  grown  by  the 
earliest  beginner  in  gardening,  and  it  will  thrive 
where  most  other  sorts  would  fail  to  exist.  Then 
there  is  its  long  season  of  flowering.  Unlike  the 
raw  army  recruit  who  was  reputedly  the  last  on 
the  battlefield  and  the  first  off,  this  Rose  is 
almost,  if  not  quite,  the  first  to  give  us  blooms, 
and  the  display  is  usually  continued  until  severe 
frosts  put  a  cheek  on  outdoor  vegetation  in 
general.  H. 

HOW  TO  RAISE  TENDER  AND  HALF- 
HARDY  ANNUALS. 
Much  more  pleasure  is  derived  from  one  boxful 
of  seedlings  well  grown  than  from  ten  times  the 
quantity  improperly  treated.  Every  spring  one 
sees  scores  of  boxes  of  puny  seedlings  which  are 


quite  unsuitable  for  planting  in  the  flower  garden. 
In  the  first  place,  the  seeds  are  sown  too  thickly, 
and  in  the  second  the  resultant  seedlings  are  not 
duly  transplanted  and  they  quicklj'  become 
stunted  and  practically  useless.  In  the  following 
table  hints  are  given  on  the  raising  of  some  of 
the  choicest  kinds  of  tender  and  half-hardy 
annuals  suitable  for  the  flower  garden. 

.-  tj    ..  t    f^  .,  When,  to   Distance 

Aame.  H.m  to  Sow.    Transplant.  Apart. 

Asters Pans  and  boxes    lin.    high  2in. 

Ageratum ,,  ,,  lio.       ,,  ^in. 

Browallias . .     ....  ,,  ,,  lin.       ,,  2in. 

Clintonia  elegans    ..  ,,  ,,  lin.      ,,  Sin. 

Ice  Plant     ,,  „  l^in.     ,,  2iin. 

Lobelia       ,,  ,,  Mn.      ,,  lin. 

Nemesia     ,,  „  iin.      „  2in. 

Nicotiana ,.  ,,  lin.      ,,  Sin. 

Phlox  Drummondii  .,  „  lin.       ,,  2in. 

Portulaca ,,  ,,  Jin.      ,,  IJin. 

Kicinus  Gihsonii     . .  ,,  ,,  2in.      „  4in. 

.Salpiglossis       ....  ,,  ,,  lin.      ,,  2in. 

Stocks ,,  ,,  liu.      ,,  2in. 

Tagetes      ,,  ,,  lin.      ,,  2in. 

Tropseolums      ....  ,,  ,,  IJin.     ,,  2in. 

Zinnias       ,,  ,,  lin.      ,,  2in. 

The  Soil. — This  is  very  important.  All  the 
seeds,  with  the  exception  of  those  of  Ricinus  and 
TropEeolum,  are  small  and  require  a  light,  gritty 
compost.  Sandy  loam  two  parts,  leaf-soil  one 
part  and  sand  or  road-drift  one  part  form  a  suit- 
able mixture,  which  must  be  passed  through  a 
half-inch-mesh  sieve. 

The  Temperature  and  Tim<-  of  Sowing. — A 
warm  greenhouse  or  a  hot-bed  frame  should  be 
utilised  for  the  raising  of  the  seedlings.  The 
most  suitable  time  to  sow  the  seeds  is  the  end 
of  February  or  early  in  March.  The  distance 
apart  given  for  the  transplanting  is  suitable  for 
the  first  shift.  The  seedlings  must  be  trans- 
planted once  more  in  coarser  soil  and  still  further 
apart  before  they  are  finally  planted  out  in  their 
flowering  quarters.  A  good  time  to  finally  plant 
is,  in  the  Southern  Counties,  early  in  June  ;  in 
the  Northern  Counties,  about  the  middle  of 
June.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


The  Division  Fence. — Between  the  lawn  and 
flower  garden  and  the  vegetable  ground  the 
owner  or  occupier  generally  likes  to  have  an 
ornamental  fence  or  hedge.  There  are  several 
ways  of  making  ornamental  fences  for  this 
purpose.  Of  course,  ordinary  hedges  will  do  very 
well ;  but  where  these  do  not  already  exist,  some 
rustic  fencing  may  be  erected  and  covered  with 
various  climbing  plants.  Evergreen  flowering 
shrubs,  too,  are  quite  suitable,  and  for  these  a 
rustic  fence  is  not  necessary.  Roses  show  to 
great  advantage  in  such  positions,  and  also 
Clematises,  Honeysuckles,  Jasmines  and  similar 
kinds  of  climbing  plants.  The  strong-growing 
Roses  must  be  planted,  such  as  the  following  : 
William  Allen  Richardson,  Gloire  de  Dijon, 
Bouquet  d'Or,  Cheshunt  Hybrid,  Mme.  Berard, 
Crimson  Rambler,  Dorothy  Perkins,  Ladj'  Gay 
and  Lord  Penzance's  Sweet  Briars.  Some  arches 
must,  of  course,  be  constructed,  and  over  these 
the  branches  of  the  climbing  plants  put  in  near 
them  may  be  trained.  Roses  over  one  arch. 
Honeysuckle  over  another  and  Clematises  over  a 
third  would  all  look  very  beautiful ;  the  approach 
to  the  vegetable  ground  would  then  be  rendered 
exceedingly  attractive. 

The  Border  in  Front  of  the  Fence. — In 
every  garden  there  would  not  be  space  for  a 
border  of  flowering  plants,  but  in  others  there 
would.  Clumps  of  herbaceous  plants  would  look 
best,  as  all  danger  of  formality  of  arrangement 
must  be  avoided.  The  rustic  fence,  laden  with 
beautiful  foliage  and  flowers,  would  form  a 
charming  background  for  a  rich  border  display  of 
flowers  in  front.  Weigelas,  Lilacs,  Flowering 
Currants,  Escallonia  maerantha,  Hibiscus  syria- 
cus,  and  the  following  berry -bearing  shrubs  may 
be  planted  in  place  of  climbing  subjects  where 
the  latter  cannot  be  put  in  :  Arbutus,  Aueubas, 


Berberis,  Euonymus  europjeus,  Pernettya, 
Thorns  (Hawthorn),  Skimmias  and  Viburnum 
Opulus. 

Herbaceous  Plants  for  the  Border. — 
Alyssum  saxatile  compaotum,  Armeria  Cepha- 
lotes  rubra,  Anemone  japonica  alba.  Chrysanthe- 
mum maximum,  Doronieums,  Aohilleas,  Helian- 
thuses,  Irises,  Gaillardias,  Phlox,  Heleuiums, 
Rudbeekias,  Pyrethrums  (single  and  double 
flowered),  Pyrethrum  uliginosum  (the  last  named 
being  splendid  for  growing  in  poor  soil),  Tritomas, 
Veronicas,  Solidagos  and  Spiraea  Aruncus.  All 
of  these  grow  freely,  and  many  of  them  form  a 
screen  in  themselves  during  the  summer  months. 

Digging  Ground  for  Flowers. — There  is  no 
doubt  that  autumn  digging  of  soil  for  flowering 
plants  is  as  beneficial  as  it  is  for  vegetables  and 
shrubs,  fruit  trees  and  other  plants  :  but  it  is  not 
always  convenient  to  do  the  work  in  autumn. 
Lose  no  time  now  in  getting  all  the  vacant  ground 
dug  which  is  intended  for  flowers.  Manure  may 
be  put  in,  and  ought  to  be,  if  the  soil  is  of 
poor  quality  ;  but  where  it  is  not  convenient  to 
add  manure  at  the  present  time,  deeply  dig 
nevertheless,  and  leave  the  surface  portion  in  a 
rough,  lumpy  condition.  In  due  course  the  soil 
will  become  loose  and  fall  down  nicely,  forming 
a  capital  seed  or  planting  bed  suitable  for 
annuals  and  summer  bedding.  If  the  cultivator 
delays  the  work  of  digging  and  trenching  until 
the  seed-sowing  or  planting  time  comes,  the  work 
necessary  then  cannot  be  as  easily  or  as  satis- 
factorily carried  out. 

Preparations  for  Seed  -  sowing.  —  Many 
gardens  in  towns  are  made  beautiful  every  year 
with  annuals  chiefly.  There  are  some  charming 
kinds  of  tender,  half-hardy  and  hardy  annuals, 
and  all  are  to  be  obtained  at  a  small  cost,  both 
as  regards  seeds  and  labour.  Preparations  must 
now  be  made  for  the  sowirg  of  the  first  two 
sections — the  tender  and  half  -  hardy  kinds. 
New  turfy  loam  and  leaf-soil  are  never  too 
plentiful  in  town  gardens,  but  both  ingredients 
are  absolutely  necessary  in  order  to  make  up  a 
suitable  compost  for  tender  seedlings.  So  much 
depends  upon  strong  seedlings,  and  it  is  well 
worth  while  to  go  to  a  little  extra  trouble  and 
expense  in  the  matter  of  soil  in  which  to  raise 
them.  Even  a  small  quantity  will  be  sutttcient 
for  raising  quite  a  largo  batch  of  young  plants. 


4. — THK  SAME  section  OF  AN  OLD  BUSH  AS 
shown  in  fig.  3  AFTER  PRUNING  HAS 
BEEN    DONE. 

Procure  the  necessary  quantity  for  filling  several 
pots  and  boxes  for  the  seeds  to  be  sown  in,  and 
also  for  the  transplanting  of  the.  seedlings  after- 
wards, prior  to  their  being  removed  to  their 
final  quarters  in  the  flower-beds.  In  the  mean- 
time also  make  ready  the  pots  and  boxes  and  build 
a  small  hot-bed  whereon  to  place  a  frame  if 
there  is  not  a  greenhouse  available.  In  due 
course  some  cultural  hints  on  the  most  suitable 
kinds  of  annuals  for  town  gardens  will  be  given 
in  this  column.  Avon. 


94 


THE     GARDEN. 


[February  20,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower   Garden. 

PLANTING.  —  Whenever  the  weather 
and  the  condition  of  the  soil  are 
suitable,  push  along  the  planting  of 
shrubs,  Roses  and  other  plants.  See 
that  the  stations  for  the  more  choice 
kinds  are  properly  prepared.  The 
drainage  is  a  most  essential  item  in  connexion 
with  specimen  plants.  Azaleas  and  Rhododen- 
drons grow  freely  in  a  rather  peaty  soil  with 
plenty  of  grit,  and  in  the  absence  of  peat,  sandy 
loam  and  leaf-mould  may  be  used.  Beds  of 
these  when  in  bloom  make  a  very  pleasing 
effect  in  the  flower  garden  and  in  open  spaces 
in  the  woods,  for  which  purpose  they  might  be 
more  extensively  planted. 

Herbaceous  Borders. — If  there  are  still  altera- 
tions to  be  made,  the  work  ought  not  to  be 
delayed.  In  all  cases  the  ground  should  be 
well  trenched,  and  if  of  rather  poor  texture, 
manure,  wood  ashes  and  any  other  suitable 
materials  obtainable  may  be  added  to  it  with 
advantage. 

Geranium!!  for  bedding-out  purposes  which 
have  been  grown  and  stored  in  boxes  may  now 
be  shaken  out  and  potted  off,  if  singly  so  much  the 
better,  but  where  pot  room  is  scarce  put  two 
plants  in  a  ."Mneh  pot.  Use  rather  fresh,  sweet 
soil  if  procurable,  so  that  the  plants  may  grow 
healthy  and  sturdy.  Pot  rather  firm  and  stand 
the  plants  in  newly-started  vineries  or  similar 
houses  where  the  heat  is  sufficient  to  give  them 
a  good  start.  Keep  all  the  ditterent  varieties 
separate  and  correctly  named,  also  a  list  of  the 
quantity  potted. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

As  the  season  for  fruit  tree  buds  to  burst  is 
fast  advancing,  any  dressing  which  still  remains 
unfinished  ought  to  be  no  further  delayed.  If 
the  trees  are  badly  infested  with  scale  and  other 
insects,  a  gentle  spray  with  caustic  alkali  of  the 
strength  recommended  on  the  tins  will  prove 
very  effectual.  Use  gloves  when  applying  the 
mixture  and  take  advantage  of  tine  mornings. 

iStraivberries. — Those  who  plant  a  bed  of  Straw- 
berries annually  with  plants  which  have  been 
forced,  and  destroy  the  old  ones,  should  huve  the 
land  prepared  in  readiness  some  weeks  before  the 
planting  is  done.  Trench  deeply  and  have  an 
abundance  of  manure  well  incorporated  with  the 
soil,  especially  if  the  land  is  light.  .\  moderately 
deep  loam  will  require  very  little  attention  com- 
pared with  deep,  cold  soil.  Lime  rubbish,  wood 
ashes  and  road  scrapings  will  be  found  very  bene- 
ficial in  keeping  the  land  more  porous  and  suitable 
for  the  growing  of  good  fruits. 

jVu<«.  — These  may  be  pruned  at  any  time  from 
now  onwards.  Spur  back  all  side  branches  and 
shoots  not  required,  and  endeavour  as  far  as 
possible  to  keep  the  main  branches  clothed  with 
twiggy  fruiting  wood.  E-emove  suckers  and  soft 
coarse  growth,  and  leave  ample  catkins  for  ferti- 
lising the  tiny  pink  female  blooms.  Nut  bushes 
are  usually  trained  basin  shape,  the  centres  of 
the  young  bushes  being  kept  well  open,  and  for 
this  purpose  always  out  the  leaders  to  a  bud 
pointing  outwards.  Those  intending  to  embark 
in  Nut  growing  ought  to  pay  a  visit  to  some  of 
the  Kent  fruit  farms. 

Vegbtabm;    Garden. 

French  Beans. — Continue  to  make  fresh  sow- 
ings of  dwarf  Beans.  Use  7-inch  or  8-inoh  pots 
for  the  present,  sowing  about  eight  seeds  in  each 
pot.  Let  the  soil  consist  of  loam  and  decayed 
manure  or  leaf-mould.  Stand  the  pots  in  a  warm 
temperature  to  hasten  germination,  and  then 
keep  the  plants  near  the  glass.  As  soon  as  the 
plants  are  high  enough  they  should  be  supported 


by  small,  twiggy  pieces  of  Birch,  Hazel  or  similar 
wood.  Those  in  bearing  will  be  benefited  by 
weak  liquid  manure.  Beans  later  do  well  planted 
out  in  beds  or  in  suitable  boxes  ;  grown  thus  they 
produce  heavy  crops. 

Cauliflowers. — Prick  these  off  as  soon  as  they 
are  ready  into  rather  shallow  boxes,  using  an 
open  soil  ;  this  applies  also  to  Cabbage  plants. 
Lettuces  and  Onions.  If  not  done  early,  the 
plants  get  drawn  and  frequently  damp  off  at  the 
collars.     Sow 

Lettuce  somewhat  thickly  in  boxes  to  produce 
tender  leaves  for  salads.  These  will  be  found 
very  useful  if  the  main  stock  in  frames  or  outside 
is  short. 

Chicory. — Take  up  in  quantity  to  meet  the 
demand,  pot  them,  and  stand  the  pots  in  a  dark, 
warm  place.  We  employ  10-inch  pots  and  plant 
the  roots  thickly.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Oardeiis,  Baniet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Vegetable  Department. 

Cauliflowers.  — Seeds  of  an  early  variety,  such 
as  Emperor,  Snowball  or  Early  London,  may  now 
be  sown  in  a  box  of  soil  and  placed  in  warmth. 
Germination  will  take  place  in  a  few  days,  and 
care  should  be  taken  that  the  seedlings  do  not 
become  drawn  through  excess  of  heat  or  want 
of  exposure  to  the  light.  Plants  from  the  autumn 
sowing  which  have  been  wintered  in  cold 
frames  will  also  require  attention,  by  having  bad 
foliage  removed,  more  space  afforded,  or  perhaps 
repotting  or  reboxing  as  growth  commences. 
Plenty  or  air  must  be  given  to  maintain  sturdi- 
ness  and  to  prevent  the  plants  getting  too 
forward  before  the  time  arrives  when  they  can 
with  safety  be  planted  outside. 

Broad  Beans. — These  being  quite  hardy  and 
almost  proof  against  wet,  may  be  sown  outside 
at  any  time.  Early  Mazagan  is  small-podded 
and  precocious,  hence  suitable  for  an  early  dish. 
Early  Longpod  is  probably  the  best  Broad  Bean 
for  general  cultivation.  The  plants  from  the 
autumn  sowing  which  are  now  appearing  above 
ground  may  have  soil  drawn  to  them  on  either 
side,  and  a  few  evergreen  sprays  placed  firmly 
between  the  rows  are  a  protection  from  sweeping 
winds. 

Peas.  — The  wrinkled  Marrowfat  types  of  these 
are  scarcely  safe  for  sowing  in  the  open  until  the 
middle  of  March,  except  upon  warm,  light  soils. 
To  forward  the  crop  pots  or  long  shallow  boxes 
may  be  requisitioned,  which,  when  soil  and  seed 
are  committed  to  them,  may  be  placed  in  a  cool 
house  or  frame,  where  the  plants  receive  almost 
natural  conditions  in  respect  to  air  and  tem- 
perature. Round-seeded  Peas  are  less  suscep- 
tible to  damage  by  moisture,  and  such  may  be 
sown  in  the  open  whenever  the  soil  is  in  good 
working  order.  As  a  precaution  against  vermin 
the  seeds  may  be  damped  and  sprinkled  with 
red  lead.  Varieties  for  the  different  seasons  are 
numerous  ;  among  very  dwarf  sorts  William 
Hurst  and  American  Wonder  are  favoured. 
Chelsea  Gem,  a  reputedly  dwarf  variety,  but 
which  in  Scotland  usually  attains  a  height  of 
30  inches,  leaves  but  little  to  be  desired  for  a 
first  crop.  The  soil  having  been  manured  and 
dug  may,  when  dry,  be  broken  down  with  a  fork, 
and  drills  drawn  at  the  distance  apart  to  which 
the  plants  will  grow  in  height.  The  foregoing 
being  cariied  out  upon  a  south  border,  a  row 
for  succession  may  at  the  same  time  be  sown 
upon  open  ground,  and  for  this  William  the 
First  is  very  suitable,  although  there  are  many 
other  sorts  of  more  recent  introduction  that  are 
favourites,  and  perhaps  equally  reliable,  accord- 
ing to  the  climate  and  situation. 

iSpinach  sown  between  lines  of  early  Peas  tends 
towards  the  full  utilisation  of  a  valuable  site, 
and  the  shelter  thus  provided  is  helpful  to  the 
production  of  a  crop  of  early  and  succulent  leaves. 


Carrots,  Parsnips,  Parsley  and  a  few  other 
seeds  that  germinate  slowly  may  be  sown  in 
small  quantities  when  the  soil  is  in  good  con- 
dition. 

Plant  Department. 

Ckrysanthemums. — As  the  earlier  cuttings  be- 
come rooted,  repotting  should  be  carried  out, 
more  particularly  if  several  plants  are  confined 
to  one  pot.  With  single  plants  this  is  scarcely 
so  urgent,  but  even  these  should  not  remain  until 
the  roots  are  very  much  entwined.  Clean  pots 
in  various  sizes,  and  a  compost  of  two  parts  loam 
to  one  of  leaf-soil,  with  sufficient  sand  added  to 
render  the  whole  in  free  working  order,  is  ample, 
and  better  than  manure  of  any  sort.  Late-flower- 
ing varieties,  or  any  others  from  which  cuttings 
could  not  be  obtained  previously,  may  now  be 
prolific  in  this  respect.  Cuttings  inserted  now 
are  best  placed  three  in  each  pot,  and  when 
rooted  repotted  without  separation ;  thus 
grown  to  the  flowering  stage,  useful  plants  for 
decoration  and  flowers  for  cutting  are  pro- 
duced. The  propagation  of  plants  for  bedding 
purposes  or  for  flowering  in  pots  in  early 
autumn  should  be  undertaken  as  cuttings  beooms 
fit.  Any  shoots  that  have  been  upon  the  plants 
all, the  winter  should  be  discarded,  as  such  seldom 
emit  roots  freely.  The  clearance  of  these  and  of 
any  decaying  matter,  followed  by  a  surfacing  of 
rich  soil  and  an  increase  of  temperature,  will 
result  in  speedy  and,  for  the  purpose,  abundant 
growth. 

Car7Mlions  planted  in  autumn  should  be 
examined  occasionally  and  have  any  diseased 
or  decaying  leaves  removed  ;  and  should  frost 
have  caused  any  disturbance  at  the  roots,  the 
same  must  be  made  firm  again  by  being  trodden 
around  when  the  soil  is  dry. 

Winter-Jloimring  Carimtions. — Many  of  these 
will  now  be  past  the  flowering  stage,  and  propaga- 
tion for  another  year,  if  not  already  commenced, 
may  be  proceeded  with.  A  small  frame  or  hand- 
light  placed  within  a  house  where  a  temperature 
of  55°  to  60°  is  maintained,  and  a  few  inches  of 
fibre,  leaf-mould  or  ashes  for  a  bed  and  to  retain 
moisture,  answers  well.  A  light,  open  soil  is 
necessary,  and  small  pots  to  accommodate  one 
cutting  each,  or  larger  for  several,  may  be  used 
according  to  space  at  command  and  the  numbers 
required.  Clean,  healthy  growths  should  be 
used  for  cuttings,  and  these,  being  severed  imme- 
diately below  a  joint,  may  then  be  split  for  an 
inch  or  more  to  facilitate  the  rooting  process. 
If  the  foliage  is  unduly  long  the  points  may  be 
reduced.  Being  well  watered  and  allowed  to 
drain,  the  pots  may  then  be  placed  in  position 
and  the  frame  kept  close,  in  a  general  way,  until 
growth  movement  in  the  cuttings  indicates  that 
roots  are  formed.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

OaUoway  House,  Garlieston,  Wigtotimshire. 


NEW      ORCHIDS. 

Cypripedium  Leander  Exhims  variety. — This 
is  a  beautiful  form  of  a  popular  Lady's  Slipper, 
the  large  dorsal  sepal  being  the  most  conspicuous 
feature.  This  is  nearly  all  white  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  small  green  patch  at  the  base,  this 
green  and  white  being  dotted  freely  with  the 
usual  dull  carmine.  The  petals  and  labellum 
are  rather  small  and  of  a  dull  brownish  colour, 
the  first-named  being  edged  with  bright  green. 
Shown  by  J.  Forster  Acock,  Esq.,  Exhims, 
Northohurch.     Award  of  merit. 

Lnlio-Cattleya  Goldfinch  superha. — This  is  an 
improved  form  of  Goldfinch,  and  the  flowersare  cer- 
tainly most  handsome.  The  medium-sized  sepals 
and  petals  are  of  a  rich  clear  golden  colaur,  the 
labellum  being  rich  velvety  carmine.  The  plant 
shown  was  carrying  six  fully-developed  flowers, 
and  formed  a  most  ornamental  sperimen. 
Exhibited  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  C.I.  K. , 
C.V.O.,  Westonbirt,  Gloucestershire.  Award  of 
merit. 


February  20,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


95 


Odontoi/lossum  x  ardenlissirrmm  Pkcebe.  — 
This  forms  another  admirable  addition  to  the 
highly  ■  coloured  Odontoglossums  which  have 
found  so  much  favour  during  the  last  few  years. 
The  flowers  are  of  ordinary  form  and  size,  but 
the  colouring  is  a  sort  of  dull  purplish  red,  each 
segment  being  edged  with  pure  white.  The 
colour  markings  are  very  regiilar  and  distinct. 
Shown  byN.  Cookson,  Esq.,  Wylam.  First-class 
certificate. 


A     VALUABLE     PEAR     FOR 
AMATEURS. 

The  amateur  is  frequently  in  a  difficulty  when 
about  to  plant  Pears,  as  often  there  is  not  room 
for  a  number  of  varieties,  and  the  very  best, 
both  as  regards  crop,  quality  and  free  growth, 
are  required.  I  do  not  know  of  any  variety 
that  is  superior  in  all  respects  to  the  one  illus- 
trated, Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey.  It  rarely  fails 
to  crop  and  the  quality  is  little  inferior  to  the 
Queen  of  Pears,  Doyenne  du  Cornice.  Grown  as 
a  pyramid  it  is  excellent  and  few  varieties  give 
a  better  return.  The  tree  is  of  a  compact  habit, 
and  grown  thus  or  in  bush  form  it  is  most  hand- 
some in  any  stage  of  growth. 

For  many  years  this  fruit  has  been  a  great 
favourite  in  the  market  and  it  has  few  equals  in 
this  respect.  I  would  also  advise  those  amateurs 
to  grow  it  as  a  cordon  who  cannot  grow  it  other- 
wise. Grown  thus  it  gives  very  fine  fruits  on  a 
west  or  south  wall  in  exposed  gardens.  For  some 
years  I  had  in  the  northern  part  of  the  country 
some  splendid  trees  of  this  variety  grown  along- 
side of  some  walks  to  divide  a  fruit  garden  from 
a  tennis  lawn,  and  the  trees  grown  thus  cropped 
grandly  and  gave  little  trouble.  The  fruit  is 
above  medium  size  and  very  handsome,  the  skin 
being  smooth,  yellow  on  the  shaded  side  and  a 
rich  crimson  on  the  exposed  side,  with  russety 
dots.  The  flesh  is  white,  rich  and  remarkably 
juicy,  with  a  decided  vinous  flavour.  The 
variety  does  best  grown  on  the  Quince  stock  in 
a  well-drained  soil.  If  the  latter  is  very  heavy, 
I  would  ewlvise  a  raised  border.  I  have  also  seen 
splendid  results  with  this  variety  grown  on  an 
east  and  even  a  north  wall  near  the  coast  in  the 
Southern  Counties.  It  is  an  early  autumn  variety 
— October  and  November.  G.  Wythes. 


ANSWERS 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS 

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FLOWER   GARDEN. 
Opnamental  water  (Mokx).— The 

declivity  in  the  lawn  would  afford  an  excellent 
opportunity  for  a  permanent  piece  of  water,  pro- 
vided the  latter  would  not  be  out  of  keeping  with 
the  general  surroundings.  What  might  be  done  in 
the  circumstances  would  depend  very  much  upon 
your  own  desires.  In  any  case,  if  you  desired 
to  grow  Water  Lilies  a  water-tight  pond  would 
be  a  necessity.  This  might  be  made  with 
clay  or  concrete,  first  excavating  the  depres- 
sion to  a  sufficient  depth  for  the  purpose.     In 


a  district  where  the  subsoil  is  sand  or  gravel 
the  making  of  a  water-tight  pond  is  of  first 
importance,  and  particularly  so  in  your  case, 
where  the  pond  is  not  fed  by  a  natural  stream, 
but  from  the  ordinary  channels  of  supply.  If 
your  garden  rests  on  a  clayey  subsoil,  it  will  be  a 
more  simple  matter  to  make  the  pond  area 
secure  by  puddling  the  sides  and  bottom.  It  the 
idea  is  to  grow  some  of  the  choice  Water  Lilies, 
a  depth  of  not  less  than  2  feet  of  water  would  be 
required  at  the  centre  and  a  lesser  depth  near 
the  shelving  sides.  This  could  first  be  formed 
by  excavating,  puddling  with  a  good  thick  layer 
of  clay  and,  finally,  coating  all  with  concrete  and 
cement.  An  informal  piece  of  water  should 
afford  much  pleasure  if  properly  conceived  and 
carried  out. 

Violet  plants  sickly  and  not 
floweplngr  [Mrs.  Bowman). — We  suspect  that 
the  substance  was  placed  in  too  close  proximity 
to  the  roots  of  the  Violets.  The  best  thing  to  do 
now  will  be  to  take  up  the  plants  and  replant  in 
fresh,  sweet  soil.  They  will  probably  eome  round 
and  flower  in  spring.  The  reason  why  your 
strong  plants  do  not  flower  now  is  because  they 


places.  As  the  diseased  portion  is  now  dried  up, 
it  is  difficult  to  determine  whether  the  bacteria 
are  alive  or  not  at  the  present  time.  We  imagine, 
however,  that  they  are  alive  and  will  be  prepared 
to  renew  their  attacks  so  soon  as  the  corms  are 
in  contact  with  the  moist  earth  following  the 
annual  planting.  As  the  case  now  stands  we 
advise  you  :  (1)  Not  to  plant  in  the  same  ground 
again  ;  (2)  to  burn  all  the  worst-affected  corms  ; 
(3)  to  treat  a  few  of  the  roots  to  a  bath  of  nicoti- 
cide  or  XL  All  at  reduced  strength  ;  and  (4)  to 
treat  liberally  any  ground  to  be  planted  with 
the  diseased  corms  with  a  strong  application  of 
Kilogrub  or  similar  substance.  Superphosphate 
of  lime  might  also  be  of  assistance  in  minimising 
the  attack  in  future. 

Sweet  Peas  fop  exhibition  {E.  H.). 

With  every  real  desire  to  do  our  utmost  for 
readers,  we  cannot  aspire  to  impossibilities,  and 
as  such  we  regard  the  demand  for  the  best 
twenty-four  Sweet  Peas  in  order  of  merit.  As 
the  best  that  anyone  can  do,  we  name  twenty- 
four  that  will  take  a  lot  of  beating  if  they  are 
grown  to  perfection.  Audrey  Crier,  Clara 
Curtis,    Etta   Dyke,    Evelyn    Hemus,    Hannah 


PEAR  LO0I3E   BOMNE   OF  .JBRSBT. 


were  allowed  to  flower  in  the  summer.  Every 
flower-bud  should  be  picked  off  in  summer  before 
it  has  a  chance  to  open.  They  will  no  doubt 
flower  again  in  spring.  The  bulbs  planted  in  the 
grassy  glens  will,  we  hope,  flower  freely  a  little 
later  on.  They  are  always  rather  late  in  doing 
so  the  first  season  after  planting.  No  doubt  the 
warmth  of  the  room  has  hastened  the  flowering 
of  those  in  the  window.  Those  in  the  cold  green- 
house will  flower  later  on  and  possibly  produce 
finer  blooms.  If  you  wish  to  hasten  the  flower- 
ing of  some  of  the  backward  bulbs,  the  best  way 
will  be  to  place  them  in  the  window  or  the 
warmest  corner  of  the  greenhouse.  Pieonies 
have  such  thick  roots  and  are  such  voracious 
feeders  that  nothing  else  that  we  know  will 
succeed  well  in  close  proximity  to  them.  You 
might  try  summer  and  autumn  flowering  Chrysan- 
themums. 

Gladioli   diseased  (M.  H.  S.  N.).- 

We  find,  after  a  more  complete  microscopical 
examination,  that  the  corms  of  the  Gladiolus 
are  apparently  suffering  from  a  disease  caused 
by  a  bacillus  not  unlike  that  which  causes  the 
Hyacinth  disease  in  America,  Holland  and  other 


Dale,  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes,  Mrs.  Henry  Bell, 
Chrissie  Unwin,  Prince  Olat,  A.  ■!.  Cook, 
Countess  Spencer,  Helen  Lewis,  .John  Ingman, 
Black  Knight,  Mrs.  Andrew  Ireland,  The  King, 
Lord  Nelson,  Mrs.  Collier,  Romolo  Piazzani,  St 
George,  Paradise  Red  Flake,  Sybil  Eckford, 
.Jeannie  Gordon  and  Rosie  Adams. 

Gpowing:  Apum  Lilies  in  flowing: 
watep  ((?.  B.  W.). — The  essentials  to  success 
are  that  the  corms  or  bulbs  be  covered  by  at 
least  1.5  inches  of  water,  so  that  frost  cannot 
reach  them.  The  best  way  of  introducing  the 
plants  would  be  in  the  late  summer-time,  when 
they  are  more  or  less  dormant  and  the  dry 
roots  are  available.  At  such  a  time  you  could 
place  a  single  corm  in  a  rough  piece  of  sacking, 
the  point  of  growth  protruding,  tie  up  loosely 
with  a  peek  of  soil  and  sink  the  plants  into  the 
positions  required  ;  or,  if  you  have  specimens 
you  could,  when  the  severe  weather  has  passed 
away,  drop  in  the  established  plants  from  pots 
in  much  the  same  way.  These  plants  ask  for 
nothing  more  than  the  rich  mud  and  vegetable 
deposit  usually  found  in  such  places,  and  suitable 
water  in  which   to  grow.     You  would  also  find 


96 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  February  :.'0,  1909! 


Sagittaria  japoniea  flore-pleno,  the  double  white 
Arrowhead,  a  notable  plant  for  such  a  plaue 
or  even  in  the  shallow  water  of  the  stream. 
Why  not  plant  Nymphaa  Marliaoea  albida, 
N.  M.  carnea  and  N.  M.  ohromatella  in  the  pond 
and  possess  a  glorious  trio  of  the  finest  Water 
Lilies  extant'; 

Chpistmas  Roses  under  nopth  wall  Ofrs- 
B.).—\'oa  do  not  say  how  long  the  plants  have  been  in 
their  present  position,  a  moat  important  point.  Your  note 
would  seem  to  indicate  that  the  plants  have  completely 
exhausted  the  soil  and  are,  consequently,  starved.  If  such 
is  the  case,  you  may  lift  them  at  once,  dig  the  border 
thoroughly  and  deeply,  and  incorporate  a  liberal  amount 
of  well-decayed  manure  therewith.  Then  replant  and 
take  care  that  they  do  not,  during  the  coming  summer, 
suffer  from  want  of  water.  If  they  are  only  just  planted 
and  the  conditions  as  to  soil  are  favourable,  you  can 
reasonably  anticipate  better  results  another  year. 

Narcissus  diseased  (//.  ,S'.).-The  disease  so- 
called  appears  rather  the  result  of  injury,  due  probably  to 
something  locally  inflicted  and  of  which  we  have  no  data. 
The  slight  rusty  appearance  of  the  leaves  and  their  distor- 
tion may  have  been  due  to  some  injurv  inflicted  last 
autumn,  the  leaves  with  the  flower-buds  for  this  season's 
display  being  then  formed.  The  fact  that  the  specimen 
you  submit  has  a  very  full  and  healthy  mass  of  Ijasal  roots, 
that  the  hulb  itself  is  of  more  than  average  soundness, 
and  that  it  now  contains  and,  indeed,  is  producini;  two 
flriwer-scapes,  does  not  point  to  any  very  serious  trouble. 
Occasionally,  however,  a  bulb  will  produce  a  distorted 
leaf  without  apparent  cause.  We  usually  find  that  an 
abundant  supply  of  root  moisture  during  the  growing 
period  will  invariably  ensure  the  full  and  proper  develop- 
ment of  the  blooms.  If,  in  other  instances,  you  find 
diseased  leafage  in  conjunction  with  a  rootless  condition 
nn  the  same  side  of  the  bulb,  itwoul  1  point  most  probably 
to  an  attack  of  mite  setting  up  basal  disease.  This,  in  the 
instance  before  us,  is  not  the  case.    . 


THE    GREENHOUSE 

Beiconias  groing:  wpongr  (R.  W.).— 
Your  Begonias  are  badly  attacked  by  what  is 
termed  the  Begonia  mite,  a  tiny,  almost  micro- 
scopical insect  nearly  related  to  the  thrips.  It  is 
very  liable  to  attack  plants  that  are  in  too  dry 
an  atmosphere  and  kept  too  warm.  You  speak 
of  giving  your  plants  stove  treatment :  but  a 
warm  greenhouse  or  a  structure  kept  at  an  inter- 
mediate temperature  is  more  suitable  to  the 
requirements  of  this  Begonia  than  a  stove.  These 
little  pests  attack  the  leaves  and  stems  while 
very  young,  and  by  the  time  they  show  the  effect 
of  the  injury  the  insects  may  have  left  them  to 
carry  on  their  work  of  destruction  elsewhere.  An 
occasional  vaporising  with  the  XL  All  Vaporiser 
will  keep  the  plants  free,  as  the  perfect  insects 
are  killed  by  it  although  the  eggs  escape.  When 
these  hatch  the  next  vaporising  will  kill  them. 
Dipping  in  tobacco  water  will  also  get  rid  of  the 
mite,  but  one  dose  will  not  be  sufficient. 

Hippeastpum  bulbs  soft  ( W.  F.  W.). 

Without  doubt  your  Hippeastrums  have  been 
kept  too  moist,  and  that  is  the  principal  cause 
of  the  trouble.  Judging  by  the  leaf  sent,  they 
do  not  appear  to  have  had  any  season  of  rest,  as 
the  bulbs  should  be  now  quite  dormant.  At  the 
same  time  other  cultural  details  may  have  been 
wrongly  carried  out.  Briefly,  the  treatment 
required  by  Hippeastrums  may  be  thus  summed 
up  :  After  flowering  the  plants  should  be  kept 
in  a  house  where  an  intermediate  temperature  is 
maintained,  that  is  to  say,  where  the  thermometer 
ranges  from  55°  to  70°  or  thereabouts.  They 
must  be  regularly  watered,  the  object  being  to 
encourage  good  free  growth,  as  this  plays  an 
important  part  in  the  display  of  flowers  another 
season.  Then  by  July  the  plants  may  be  placed 
in  a  sunny  part  of  the  greenhouse  or  in  a  frame, 
the  light  being  put  on  in  the  event  of  heavy 
rains.  They  will  need  to  be  regularly  watered 
till  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow,  when  less 
water  must  be  given,  and  finally,  when  totally 
dormant,  be  discontinued  altogether.  This  may 
be  in  the  latter  part  of  October  or  in  November. 
Previous  to  this,  that  is  to  say,  in  September, 
the  bulbs  should  be  taken  into  their  winter 
quarters,  where  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  is 
maintained.  The  bulbs  are  best  if  kept  quite 
dry  during  the  winter  months,  that  is  if  they 
are  not  near  hot-water  pipes  or  are  so  situated 
that  the  soil   becomes   very  parched,  in  which 


case  a  little  water  may  with  advantage  be  given. 
By  the  end  of  Januarj'  they  may  be  watered,  at 
which  time  a  good  light  position  in  a  tempera- 
ture of  50°  to  65°  is  best  for  them.  At  one  time 
Hippeastrums  were  potted  annually,  but  now 
they  are  often  allowed  to  stand  for  two  or  three 
years  without  repotting.  When  necessary  it 
can  be  done  either  in  January  or  immediately 
after  the  flowers  are  over.  When  growing 
freely,  that  is,  in  the  spring  and  early  summer 
months,  an  occa.sional  dose  of  liquid  manure 
will  be  helpful. 

Opnamental  Aspapagus  fop  cut- 
ting {E.  A.  C). — Where  Asparagus  plumosus 
nanus  is  grown  largely  for  cutting  purposes,  it  is 
often  planted  out  in  a  prepared  border  in  the 
greenhouse,  or  preferably  in  a  structure  kept 
somewhat  warmer  than  an  ordinary  greenhouse. 
The  border  must  be  effectually  drained  and  made 
up  of  turfy  loam,  peat  and  sand.  During  the 
growing  season  an  ocoasional  dose  of  liquid 
manure  will  be  helpful.  As  it  is  very  probable 
that  you  have  no  facilities  for  planting  out  your 
Asparagus,  the  plants  may  be  grown  altogether 
in  pots,  using  the  same  kind  of  soil  as  that  above 
recommended.  In  pots  when  well  furnished  with 
roots,  they  can  be  given  liquid  manure  rather 
oftener  than  if  planted  in  the  border.  The 
shoots  should  be  trained  up  strings  or  to  the  roof 
of  the  structure.  The  fact  of  your  plants 
running  up  with  long  stalks  and  very  little  foliage 
would  suggest  that  yours  is  a  very  poor  form  of 
Asparagus  plumosus  nanus,  or  perhaps  only  a 
plumosus  itself.  Some  plants  are  much  superior 
to  others,  and  in  large  market  establishments 
where  large  quantities  are  grown  especial  care  is 
taken  to  grow  only  the  best  form,  as  this  makes 
all  the  difference  between  a  remunerative  crop  and 
a  non-paying  one.  A  pretty  Asparagus  for 
cutting  is  A.  tenuissimus,  whose  leaves  are  as 
slender  as  those  of  A.  plumosus  nanus,  but  the 
branches  are  not  flattened  and  frond-like  as  in 
the  last-named.  Asparagus  tenuissimus,  when 
in  a  healthy  condition,  quickly  shoots  out  again 
when  sprays  are  cut. 

Cllmbeps  fop  conservatopy  and  bilUard- 
poom  (J.  //.).— There  are  no  climbers  whatever  that  we 
can  recommend  to  give  satisfaction  under  such  conditions 
as  those  named  by  you.  The  dry  atmosphere  necessary 
for  a  billiard  table  would  be  very  unfavourable  for  the 
culture  of  any  plants,  climbing  or  otherwise.  In  such  a 
place  not  only  would  the  growth  be  weak,  but  the  plants 
would  become  infested  with  red  spider,  mealy  bug  and 
other  insect  pests. 

Fpeesla  bulbs  for  inspection  (£.  E.  D.).— 
The  Freesia  bulbs  sent  are  quite  sonnd,  and  in  some 
cases  there  is  an  attempt  to  form  a  small  bulb  on  the  top 
of  the  old  one.  We  should  say  that  the  fault  lies  partially 
in  insutlicient  feeding  after  the  flowers  were  over,  but 
more  particularly  in  the  bulbs  being  badly  ripened.  .\s 
soon  as  the  foliage  dies  down,  the  pots  of  Freesia  bulbs 
should  be  stood  on  a  shelf  fully  e.xpo3ed  to  the  sun  and 
kept  quite  dry  for  a  month  before  turning  them  out  of 
their  pots,  sizing  the  bulbs  and  repotting  them.  This  is  a 
highly  important  matter  in  the  cultivation  of  Freeaias. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Destpoylng  a  tpee-stump   (A.    P. 

Traherne). — Y'ou  can  kill  the  stumps  of  a  tree  by 
removing  the  soil  from  the  main  roots,  then 
boring  holes  into  them  half  an  inch  to  1  inch  in 
diameter  and  filling  them  with  common  salt.  If 
the  trunk  has  been  sawn  of!  level  with  the  ground 
you  can  bore  a  large  hole  into  the  butt,  carrying 
it  well  past  the  centre,  then  fill  with  saltpetre 
and  pour  a  little  water  in  to  help  it  dissolve  ; 
cork  up  the  hole  and  let  it  stand  for  three 
months,  then  uncork,  fill  the  hole  with  paraffin 
and  apply  a  light.  The  butt  will  gradually 
smoulder  away. 

Aucubas  planted  undep  Austplan  Pines 

(.S.  .S'.).— The  .\ustrian  Pine,  by  its  vigorous  growth  and 
dense  shade,  takes  so  much  out  of  the  ground  that  there 
is  but  a  poor  chance  of  any  ahrnb  succeeding  well  in  close 
proximity  to  it,  but  by  mulching  in  spring  with  a  layer 
5  inches  deep  of  good  rotten  manure,  as  you  suggest,  we 
have  no  doubt  the  Aucubas  will  do  fairly  well.  We  should 
rake  away  the  Pine  needles  and  burn  them  with  other 
rubbish.  Not  much,  if  any,  good  comes  of  giving  guano 
or  other  artificial  manures  to  shrubs. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Manuplng  Rose-beds  {M.  s.   w.).— 

As  you  had  excellent  results  list  season  from 
digging  in  peat-moss  litter,  we  advise  you  to 
use  the  same  material  again  this  season.  This 
manure  is  not  nearly  so  likely  to  encourage  mil- 
dew as  long  straw  manure  ;  indeed,  the  latter 
should  always  be  frequently  turned  and  rotted 
down  before  being  utilised  for  Roses.  The  peat- 
moss litter,  providing  it  is  not  removed  from  the 
stables  too  quickly,  has  a  most  beneficial  eff'ett 
upon  a  light  soil,  and  if  a  proper  tilth  is  main- 
tained by  freciuent  hoeings  you  need  have  no  fear 
as  to  any  injurious  results  arising  from  its  use. 

Fast-gpowlng  climbing  Rose  for 
gpeenhouse  (M.  S.  W.). — Varieties  that 
would  yield  large  blooms  and  grow  quickly  are 
Climbing  Niphetos,  Climbing  Kaiserin  A.  Vic- 
toria, Climbing  Perle  des  Jardins,  Solfaterre, 
Lamarque  and  Climbing  Devoniensis.  Of  the 
beautiful  small-flowered  cluster  Roses  that  would 
yield  beautiful  foliage  as  well  as  lovely  clusters 
of  buds,  we  can  recommend  Claire  Jacquier, 
Alberio  Barbier,  Tea  Rambler,  I4ardenia,  Dorothy 
Perkins,  Hiawatha  and  Paradise.  You  should 
procure  extra-sized  pot-grown  plants,  and  if 
possible  plant  out  the  variety  you  select  in  a 
well-prepared  border,  or  it  could  be  planted  into 
a  tub  or  large  pot.  The  plant  would  need  little 
or  no  pruning  the  first  year. 

Lapge-floweped  climbing  Rosea 

fOP  pePgOla  (/.  S.  L.  M.). — The  variety 
Tausendschiin,  which  we  figured  in  our  issue  of 
the  .30th  ult.,  would  be  a  very  suitable  one  for 
your  pergola.  The  other  varieties  you  name  are 
not  very  fast  growers,  but  they  would  do  well 
on  the  upright  posts,  and  are  excellent  large- 
flowered  sorts.  Pink  Rover  is  very  sweet  and 
of  a  nice  fresh  shell  pink  colour.  Mme.  1. 
Pereire  is  a  large  carmine-rose-coloured  flower  ; 
Mrs.  Paul,  flesh  -white,  large  and  flat  like  a 
Cimellia.  Mrs.  Chandler  is  a  white  sport  of  the 
latter.  Zepherin  Drouhin  is  a  lovely  cerise 
colour  and  Mme.  Pierre  Oger  delicate  mauve 
and  white.  Some  large-flowered,  fast-growing 
sorts  well  suited  for  your  purpose  would  be 
Climbing  Caroline  Testout,  Mme.  Alfred  Carrit-re, 
Waltham  Climber  No.  1,  Reine  Olga  de  Wur- 
temburg.  Souvenir  de  Mme.  Jos.  Metral,  Mme. 
Jules  Siegfried,  Gaston  Chandon,  Johanna 
Sebus,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Francois  Crousse, 
Mme.  Berard,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Noella 
Nabonnand,  Kaiserin  Friedrich,  Edmond  Proust 
and  Reine  Marie  Henriette. 
Ppunlng  Rosea   planted   this 

WinteP  (J.  T.). — Rosarians  find  it  to  be  much 
the  best  plan  to  prune  newly-planted  Roses 
pretty  severely  the  first  year.  It  is  after  they 
have  become  established  where  the  difference  in 
pruning  must  be  made.  Of  the  extensive  list 
of  names  you  submit,  we  advise  you  to  prune 
them,  with  the  exception  of  the  climbers,  to 
within  3  inches  to  5  inches  of  their  base  this 
season.  Should  you  desire  further  information 
as  to  the  pruning  of  the  individual  sorts  another 
year,  you  will  find  most  of  the  varieties  you  name 
alluded  to  in  our  pruning  notes,  which  were 
carefully  prepared  and  which  appeared  in  our 
issues  for  February  23  and  March  '2  in  the  year 
1907,  and  March  7  and  14  of  last  year.  The 
rugosa  Roses  you  should  prune  back  to  about 
12  inches  of  their  base.  The  Polyantha  Ramblers 
and  wichuraianas  may  be  retained  about  3  feet 
in  length,  although  they  would  be  none  the  worse 
if  pruned  back  to  1  foot  the  first  year.  After- 
wards you  will  not  need  to  prune  them  very 
much,  merely  removing  some  of  the  old  wood 
annually  and  retaining  the  young  growths  nearly 
their  full  length.  The  side  growths  of  Ramblers, 
termed  laterals,  are  always  shortened  back  pretty 
hard,  say,  from  three  to  six  eyes.  Penzmoe  Briars 
and  Austrian  Briars  we  should  not  prune  at  all, 
except  to  remove  just  the  extreme  ends  of  the 
growths.  The  China  Roses  should  be  treated  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  majority  of  those  named 
in  your  list. 


GARDEN. 


No.  1945.    Vol.  LXXIII. 


February  27, 1909. 


CONTENTS 


Mr  E,  Mawley'sRose 
Analysis,  1901— 1908 
Notes  of  the  week. 
c0rrk8pondbnok 
Cupid     Sweet     Peas 

grown  in  a  barrel 
The  Winter-flowering 

Carnation  Society 
Rosa  lievigata  bloom- 
ing at  Christmas  . . 
Flowek  Garden 
The     cultivation    of 
the  Neapolitan 

Violet      

Sweet  Pea  chat 
Coloured  Plate 
Nemesia  hybrida 
Blue  Gem       . .     . . 
Orchids 
Autumn  and  winter 
flowering  Cypripe- 
diums  and  how  to 
grow  them   . .     . . 
Rose  Garden 
A  hedge  of  Roses     .. 
Banksian  Roses 
Rose    Mme.     Alfred 

Carrit^re 

Kruit  Garden 
Some   good  culinary 

Plums      

Hints  on  Vine  culture 


100 


Fruit  Garden 

Tying  and    training 

fruit  trees      . .     . . 

Kitchen  Garden 

How  to  grow  Melons 

ill  frames       . .     . . 

Spinach  and  Seakale 

Beet         

Editor's  Table      . .     . . 
Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 104 

Pruning  and  increas- 
ing Gooseberries  . . 
An    easily    grown 
greenhouse  annual 
The  Town  Garden    . 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For   the    South    and 

South  Midlands    . .     106 
For  the  North    and 
North  Midlands  . .     106 
Growing    Sweet    Peas 

for  seed       106 

Answers     to     Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Greenhouse 
Rose  garden 
Fruit  garden 
Legal  Points 


102 


103 

103 
103 


104 

105 
105 


107 
107 
107 
108 
108 
108 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Lycaste  Skinneri  as  grown  by  a  reader 99 

Nemesia  hybrida  Blue  Gem Coloured  plate 

A  hedge  of  Roses  in  Messrs.  Merry  weather's  nursery      101 

A  good  spray  of  Plum  Cox's  Emperor     102 

A  good  crop  of  Melons 103 

Pruning  and  increasing  Gooseberries      104,  105 

Sweet  Peas  at  Stourbridge 106 

EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  repi-esented  in  THE 
Garden,  arid  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  columns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  commu7iicatio7is  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  retxim.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  a^ks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  -not  be  able  to  icse, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  Garden 
vnll  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


MR. 


MAWLEY'S      ROSE 


ANALYSIS,    1901—1908. 

IT  was  not  my  intention  to  have  sent  you  this 
year  my  usual  notes  on  the  above,  partly 
because  it  now  appears  in  the  National 
Rose  Society's  Annual ;  but  enquiries 
from  more  than  one  of  your  readers  have 
reached  me  recently  as  to  when  my  notes  were 
going  to  appear,  and  I  have  been  induced  to 
alter  my  decision. 

The  original  analysis  has  appeared  for  many 
years  now  in  the  columns  of  your  contemporary, 
the  Journal  of  Horticulture,  and  I  have  to  thank 
the  Editor  of  that  journal  for  permission  to 
reproduce  it  here.  At  the  same  time,  only 
portions  of  the  whole  are  taken. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  are  making  the 
acquaintance  of  these  statistics  for  the  first  time, 
Mr.  Mawley  briefly  explains  the  system  upon 
which  they  are  annually  compiled.  "  For  the 
last  twenty-two  years  the  name  of  every  Rose 
in  the  first,  second  and  third  prize  stands  has 
been  taken  down  at  the  leading  Rose  show  of  the 
season — that  held  annually  in  London  in  July 
by  the  National  Rose  Society.  The  results 
thus  obtained  have  been  tabulated  and  the 
varieties  arranged  in  the  published  tables 
according  to  the  average  number  of  times  each 
Rose  was  staged  at  the  last  eight  of  those 
exhibitions.  This  applies  to  nearly  two-thirds 
of  the  Roses  which  find  places  in  those  tables. 
For  the  sorts  of  more  recent  introduction  the 
longest  trustworthy  averages  are  given  instead, 
while  the  still  newer  kinds  are  given  positions 
according  to  their  records  for  the  last  exhibition 
alone. " 

Mr.  Mawley  commences  his  article  that 
accompanies  the  analysis  with  an  interesting 
account  of  the  weather  that  prevailed  for  the 
three  months  previous  to  the  show,  and  which 
helped  to  account  for  the  fact  that  the  early 
promise  of  a  record  season,  both  as  regards 
quality  as  well  as  quantity  of  flower,  was  not 
borne  out  by  the  results.  He  says  :  ' '  The  winter 
of  1907-8  was,  on  the  whole,  mild  and  dry,  and 
at  pruning  time  the  rosarian  had  little  cause  for 
complaint  either  as  regards  the  growth  his 
plants  had  made,  or  the  soundness  and  ripeness 
of  the  shoots.  Throughout  April  the  leaf-buds 
remained  virtually  dormant  owing  to  the  excep- 
tional coldness  and  wetness  of  that  month,  and 
little  injury  was  apparently  done  by  the  cold 
nights,  which  may  be  partly  due  to  the  ground 
having  been  covered  with  a  deep  fall  of  snow 
when  some  of  the  keenest  frosts  occurred.  Then 
came  the  critical  month  of  May,  which  was  this 
year  virtually  without  frost,  and  as  the  weather 
remained  for  the  most  part  warm,  the  plants 
continued  to  make  steady  and  excellent  progress. 
The  first  few  days  of  June  were  unusually  hot, 
which  caused  the  plants  to  start  into  vigorous 
growth  and  form  their  flower-buds.  So  far  all 
had  gone  well.  The  most  noteworthy  feature  of 
the  next  three  weeks  was  the  number  of  cold  ' 


nights  with  occasional  slight  ground  frosts,  while 
the  last  fortnight  of  the  month  was  rainless. 
Then  at  the  end  of  June  came  a  sudden  burst  of 
heat,  which  culminated  on  the  show  day  itself 
with  the  highest  temperature  of  the  whole 
summer.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  prospect 
of  one  of  the  finest  Rose  seasons  ever  known  was 
marred  first  by  cold  and  drought,  which  checked 
the  progress  of  the  buds,  and  then  by  exceptional 
heat,  which  hurried  them  prematurely  into  flower. 
As  was  the  case  last  year,  it  was  not  the  much- 
dreaded  spring  frosts,  but  a  spell  of  cold  weather 
in  June  which  arrested  the  progress  of  the  buds 
at  the  most  critical  period  of  their  development, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  tropical  heat  which  followed, 
and  which  proved  so  trying  not  only  to  the 
exhibitors,  but  also  to  the  flowers  themselves 
when  staged. " 

Undoubtedly  the  early  promise  was  not  con- 
tinued, at  any  rate,  through  the  Rose-showing 
season,  and  so  we  find  that  the  early  shows  had 
the  better  quality  flowers.  And  at  the  time  of  the 
"National"  (coming  as  it  did  at  the  end  of  seven 
days  of  almost  tropical  heat)  the  flowers  that  were 
exhibited  had  mestly  developed  too  quickly,  and 
none  but  the  many  petalled  varieties  had  a 
chance  of  surviving  the  trying  ordeal  of  the 
exhibition  tent,  as  a  reference  to  the  analysis 
will  prove.  The  exhibitor  left  such  sorts  as 
Captain  Hayward,  Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford 
and  Fisher  Holmes  at  home,  or  if  he  brought 
them  to  the  show  they  remained  in  his  spare 
box  ;  they  were  not  staged  except  in  oases  of 
dire  necessity  or  a  very  exceptional  bloom. 

It  is  well,  then,  before  examining  the  analysis 
to  remember  the  exceptional  circumstances  of  the 
show  and  what  bearing  the  same  must  have  had 
on  the  Roses.  It  is  true  that  the  analysis  com- 
bines the  results  of  eight  years,  and  therefore 
may  correct,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  exceptional, 
so  that  it  may  be  taken  on  the  whole  as  the  rule. 
I  have  before  me  the  analysis  for  the  last  three 
years  as  I  write.  Let  us  compare  the  record  of 
a  single  Rose  and  see  what  the  season  does  for  it. 
Captain  Hayward,  the  first  Rose  mentioned 
above,  will  answer  ;  it  is  a  variety  whose  record 
is  likely  to  vary  with  the  season.  In  1906  I  find 
this  Rose  was  exhibited  in  twenty-one  winning 
boxes,  in  1907  in  no  less  than  thirty-four — a, 
record  for  the  variety — in  1908  it  had  not  a  single 
representative.  As  an  opposite  instance  we  will 
take  Her  Majesty.  In  1906  her  total  was 
thirteen,  in  1907  nil,  in  1908  twenty-one.  Now 
we  will  take  what  we  will  call  a  dependable  sort,  a 
standby — Caroline  Testout,  for  instance — in  1906 
forty-three,  in  1907  thirty-eight,  in  1908  thirty- 
two.  I  mention  these  few  facts  to  show  that 
even  statistics,  compiled  as  we  know  these  are 
with  scrupulous  care,  may  mislead,  unless  there 
is  brought  to  bear  on  them  some  knowledge  of  the 
circumstances  under  which  the  facts  with  which 
they  deal  were  produced. 

With  these  few  remarks  in  mind,  we  will  turn 
to  the  analysis  on  page  98.  The  first  column 
represents  the  results  of  1908  and  the  seven 
previous  years  ;  the  second,  the  average  number 
of  times  the  variety  has  been  shown  over  the 
whole  period  ;  and  the  third,  its  relative  record 
for  1908  only. 

Mr.  Mawley's  comments  on  the  analysis  are  as 
follows:    "As   was   the   case   in  1907,  but   few 


98 


THE     GAllDE^. 


[February  27,  1909. 


varieties  were  exceptionally  well  represented  at 
this  year's  show.     In  fact,  only  Mildred  Grant, 
Florence    Pemberton    and     Ulster    have    never 
before,  and  Gladys  Harkness  only  once  before, 
been    as     frequently    staged,     whereas    K.     A. 
Victoria,  Mrs.  W.  .J.  Grant,  A.  K.  Williams,  La 
France,     Mrs.    R.    G.    S.     Crawford,    Gustave 
Piganeau,  S.  M.  Rodoeanaehi,  Captain  Hayward 
Dupuy  Jamain,    Duke    of    Wellington 
.Tacqueminot,  Lady  M.  Fitzwilliam,   Tom  Wood 
and  Duke  of  Edinburgh  have  never  before  been 
as  sparsely  exhibited.     Of  the  foregoing  fourteen 
varieties   all   but   four,    it   will   be   noticed,   are 
Hybrid  Perpetuals.      Notwithstanding  the  poor 
show  made  by  the  above  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  it  is 
interesting  to  note  that,  taking  the  whole  of  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  in  the  table,  they  still  slightly 
outnumber  the  Hybrid  Teas,  and  that  the  number 
of  the  latter  on  the  list  has  not  increased  since 
last  year. 

"  The  positions  now  occupied  by  the  newer 
Roses  on  the  list  as  compared  with  those  they  took 
up  in  the  previous  analysis  is  always  a  matter  of 
peculiar  interest,  although  in  some  exceptional 
cases  these  changes  may  be  due  in  a  great  measure 
to  the  lateness  or  earliness  of  the  different 
seasons,  or,  if  possessing  only  a  moderate  number 
of  petals,  to  the  heat  of  the  show  day  this  year. 
In  the  present  instance,  by  newer  Roses  is 
meant  those  varieties  on  the  list  which  are  now 
five  or  fewer  years  old.  Of  the  three  190.3  varie- 
ties, Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt  (light  pink)  has 
risen  since  last  year  from  No.  50  to  No.  30, 
whereas  Gustave  » Jrunerwald  (carmine  pink)  has 
fallen  during  the  same  time  from  No.  30  to 
No.  58.  Lohengrin  (silvery  pink)  on  its  first 
appearance  in  the  table  takes  up  a  place  at 
No.  6,5.     ~ 


acquisitions — Dean  Hole,  Hugh  Dickson  and  Lady 
Ashtown.       Dean     Hole    (pale   carmine,    shaded 
salmon)   was   staged  more    frequently  than  any 
other  Rose  in  the  table,   and  now  occupies  the 
second  place  in  it.     Hugh  Dickson  (bright  crim- 
son) since  last   year  has   fallen    from    No.   8  to 
No.  15,  no  doubt  owing  to  the  heat  of  the  weather, 
and  Mrs.   David  McKee    (creamy   yellow)  from 
General  I  probably  the  same  cause,  from  No.  50  to  No.  61, 
while  Lady  Ashtown   (deep  pink)    remains   vir- 
tually at  the  same  place  (No.  16)  as  last  year. 
We  now  come  to  four  varieties  which  were  sent 
out  in  1905.     J.  B.  Clark  (crimson,  shaded  plum) 
has   still   further   improved    on    its    last   year's 
position  by  rising  from   No.  21  to  No.  8.     Mrs. 
J.  Bateman  (china  rose,  yellow  base),  which  is 
new  to  the  list,  takes  up  a  very  creditable  position 
at  No.  26  ;  Countess  of   Derby  (flesh  peach)  re- 
mains as  before  at  No.  42,  while  Mme.   Melanie 
Sbupert  (salmon  yellow,  shaded  pink)  on  its  first 
appearance  in  the  list   takes   up  a   position   at 
No.  66.     The  only  variety  finding  a  place  in  the 
table  which  was    first   distributed   in  1906  is  a 
very  large  pink  exhibition  Rose,  William  Shean, 
which  tince  last  year  has  risen  from  No.   56  to 
No.  22      Queen  of  Spain  (blush  white)  is  also  the 
only  1907  variety,  and  this  on  its  first  appearance 
finds  a  place  at  No.  34. 

"  Of  the  above-mentioned  new  Roses  eight  were 
raised  in  Ireland, one  in  England,  two  in  Germany, 
one  in  France,  and  the  remaining  variety  of  the 
thirteen  in  America.  If  we  turn  to  the  table 
of  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas  we  shall 
find  further  evidence  of  the  great  advances  made 
in  recent  years  by  the  Irish  Roses,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons  being  credited  with  twenty-five  varieties 
in  that  table,  three  of  them  occup3'ing  the  three 


To  the  year  1904  we  owe  three  splendid  I  best  positions   in    it;    and   Hugh   Dickson  with 
HYBRID    PERPETUALS    AND    HYBRID    TEAS. 


-  S  5 

^1 

w 

"^t. 

Ss  a,~ 

1  .. 

.')2-4 

.  53  .. 

2  .. 

SOT. 

.  59  . 

3  .. 

49-8 

.  66  .. 

4  .. 

41-3 

.  44 

.■;  .. 

35-9 

.  32  . 

6  .. 

35-4 

.  35  . 

7  .. 

32-1 

.  24  . 

*8  .. 

32  0 

.  32  . 

9  .. 

317 

..  53  . 

10  .. 

27-3 

.  13 

11  .. 

25-9 

.  14  . 

12  .. 

23-6 

..  11  . 

13  .. 

23 '0 

. .  20  . 

14  .. 

22-4 

4  . 

15  .. 

22  0 

14  . 

16   . 

21-6 

. .  21  . 

17  .. 

20-4 

2  . 

18  . 

18-9 

,  .  12  . 

in  . 

18  b 

..  21  . 

19  . 

18  5 

. .  17  . 

21  . 

171 

..  10  . 

22  . 

17  0 

..   8  . 

*22  . 

17  0 

..  17  . 

24  . 

16  9 

0  . 

25  . 

10-8 

..  11  . 

■»26 

180 

.  .  16  , 

•27  . 

16-5 

. .  20  . 

28  . 

14-3 

..  13  . 

29  . 

13-6 

8 

30  . 

13  5 

.  .  19  . 

31  . 

.  12 '8 

7  . 

31  . 

.  12  8 

1  . 

33  . 

.  11-1 

..   8 

•34  . 

.  11-0 

..  11  . 

35     . 

.  10-8 

.  16 

m   . 

.  10-1 

..  10 

37  . 

.  10  0 

7 

38  . 

.   9-9 

..  10 

39  . 

.   9-4 

9 

40  . 

.   93 

..   7 

40  . 

9-3 

..  10 

•42  . 

.   90 

9 

42  . 

.   90 

..  13 

42  . 

90 

..  16 

4.'i 

.   8-8 

..   2 

46 

85 

..   7 

47 

.   8-3 

..  10 

47 

.   8-3 

..   3 

49 

.   80 

..   2 

49 

.   8-0 

..  11 

61 

.   7-6 

1 

Name. 


§1 


Bessie  Brown,  H.T 1899 

Dean  Hole,  H.T 1904 

Mileirerl  Grant,  H.  T 1901 

Frau  Karl  Druschki 1900 

Caroline  Testout  H.T 1890 

Mrs.  .lohn  Laing 1887 

Ulrich  Brunner     1881 

J.  B.  Clark,  H.T 1905 

Florence  Pemherton,  H.T.  . .  1902 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  H.T.  1891 
Mrs.  \V.  .T.  Grant,  H.T.      .  .       .     1895 

A.  K.  Williams      1877 

Alice  Lindsell,  H.T 1902 

La  France,  H.T 1SC7 

Hugh  Dickson       1904 

Lady  Ashtown,  H.T      1904 

Mrs.  E.  G.  Sharnian-Crawford . .    1894 

Gustave  Piganeau        1889 

Her  Majesty 1885 

Horace  Vernet      1866 

Helen  Keller 1895 

Suzanne  M.  Rodoeanaehi  . .     . .     1883 

William  .Shean,  H.T 1906 

Captain  Hayward        1893 

Marquise  Litta,  H.T 1893 

Mrs.  . I.  Bateman,  H.T       ..     ..     1905 

Ulster       1899 

Killarney,  H.T 1898 

Prince  Arthur       1875 

Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  H.T.     1903 

Charles  Lefehvrn ISO  I 

White  Lady,  H.T 1890 

Marie  Baumann 1863 

Queen  of  .Spain,  H.T 1907 

Lady  Moyra  Bfauclerc,  H.T.  . .  1901 
Frau^ois  Michelon  .     ..     1871 

Dupuy  Jamain       1S68 

Countess  of  Caledon,  H.T.       . .     1S97 

Alfred  Colomb      1865 

Comte  de  Raimbaud 1868 

Mamie.  H.T 1901 

Countess  of  Derby,  H  T 1905 

Gladys  Harkness,  H  T.  .     190O 

OberhofC'^rtner  Terks,  H.T.      . .     19:>2 

Fisher  Holmes      1865 

.     Robert  Scott,  H.T 1901 

.     Duchess  of  Portland,  H.T.      . .     1901 

Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet 1877 

Duke  of  Wellington 1864 

,     Papa  Lambi-rt,  II.T 1899 

.     Gin^ralJacqueminot 1853 


Bauer's 


Introducer's 
Name. 


A.  Dickson  and  .Sons 


Colour. 


Creamy  white 

Sil  very  carmine.shaded  salmon 

Ivory  white,  shaded  pink 

Pure  white 

Light  salmon  pink 


P  Lambert 

Pernet-Ducher 

Bennett    Rosy  pink 

Levet Cherry  red 

Hugh  Dickson  .  Deep  scarlet,  shaded  plum 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons    Creamy  white,  tinted  pink 

Lambert  and  Reiter    Cream,  shaded  lemon 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons    Bright  rosy  pink 

Schwartz Bright  carmine  red 

A.  Dickson  and  So^s    Creamy  white,  pink  centre 

Guillot      Silvery  rose,  sliaded  lilac 

Hu.;h  Dickson  .     . .     Crimson,  shaded  scarlet 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons    Deep  pink 

,,  ,,  Clear  rosy  pink 

Pernet-Ducher       . .     Shaded  carmine 

Bennett    . .     . .     . .     Pale  rose 

Guillot  Scarlet  crimson,  dark  shaded 

A.  Dickson  and  .Sons    Rosy  cerise 

L^veque    Gliiwing  rose 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons    Pink 

Scarlet  crimson 

Carmine  rose,  bright  centre 

China  rose,  yellow  base 

.Salmon  pink 

Pale  pink,  shaded  white 

Bright  crimson 

Light  pink 


two.  England  claims  ten,  viz.,  Bennett  four 
varieties,  G.  Paul  and  Son  two  varieties,  W.  Paul 
and  Son  two  varieties,  S.  Bide  and  Sons  one 
variety  and  B.  R.  Cant  one  variety  :  so  that 
of  the  sixty-six  Roses  in  the  table  thirty-seven, 
or  mure  than  half,  were  raised  in  the  British  Isles. 
To  France  we  are  indebted  for  twenty-two 
varieties,  four  having  been  sent  out  by  Pernet- 
Ducher,  three  by  Levet,  three  by  Lacharrae,  two 
by  Guillot,  two  by  Schwartz,  and  one  each  by 
Baumann,  Granger,  Jamain,  Levique,  Liabaud, 
Roland,  Roussell  >)nd  E.  Verdier.  Germany  is 
represented  by  six  varieties,  four  having  been 
distributed  by  Lambert,  one  by  Schmidt  anU 
one  by  N.  Welter,  while  to  America  we  are  in- 
debted for  only  one,  which  was  sent  out  by 
E.  G.  Hill  and  Co." 

The  noteworthy  items  of  the  year  are  possibly 
the  continued  rise  of  Dean  Hole,  the  most  fre- 
quently staged  Rose  in  the  exhibition  among  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas,  and  the 
jump  forward  of  Florence  Pemberton  from 
twenty-four  last  year  to  fifty-three  this  year, 
bringing  her  to  the  proud  position  of  equal  third  on 
the  day's  record,  a  truly  surprising  and,  I  must 
admit,  unexpected  result.  J.  B.  Clark  also  con- 
tinues a  steady  progress,  showing  that  this 
variety  is  getting  better  understood.  On  the 
other  side,  I  have  already  referred  to  the  down- 
fall of  Captain  Hayward.  and  all  these  Roses, 
with  the  notable  exception  of  Killarney,  tell  the 
same  tale.  La  France's  record  would  not  be  sn 
easy  to  understand  if  we  did  not  remember  that 
it  is  a  distinctly  early  Ro.5e,  and  therefore  was 
all  over  before  the  "National,"  early  in  dite 
though  it  was. 

One  curious  feature  that  has  not  before,  been 
commented  on  is  that,  if  we  take  the  first  ten 
Roses  in  the  list,  we  find  not,  as  I  think  would 
be  generally  expected,  that  the  majority  are 
pink,  but  that  exactly  half  of  them  are  white, 
with  only  three  pink  and  two  red,  and  in  the 
whole  fifty-one  varieties  (to  which  I  have  limited 
the  table),  there  is  only  one  other  white  in  the 
list  figuring  at  No.  31. 

Of  the  newer  Roses,  William  Shean  is  bound 
to  take  a  higher  place,  as  will,  I  think,  Mrs.  John 
Bateman,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt  and  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert,  few  as  are  the  petals  of  this 
beautiful  Rose.  My  notes  on  the  Teas  will 
follow.  H.    E.    MoLYNEUX. 


NOTES   OF^HE   WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS 

",*   The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  (he 
respective  Secretaries. 
March  8. — United   Horticultural   Benefit  and 
Provident    Society.       Annual   General   Meeting, 
8  pm. 


Bennett      

Pernet-Ducher 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons 


B.  R.  Cant         .     . 
E.  G  Hill  and  Co. . 

Lacharme Purplish  crimson 

W.  Paul  and  Son   . .  Creamy  white 

Baumann .Soft  carmine  red 

S.  Bide  and  Sons    , .  Pale  Bfsh   deeper  centre 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons  Madderrose.'withsilveryreflex 

Levet Deep  rose,  reverse  silvery 

.Jamain      Bright  cerise 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons  Carmine  rose 

Lacharme Bright  carmine  red 

Roland      Clear  crimson 

A.  Dickson  and  sons  Rosy  carmine,  yellow  base 

,,  ,,  Flesh  peach  [reverse 

,,  ,,  Deep    salmon    pink,     silvery 

N.  Welter Rosy  flesh,  shaded  salmon 

E.  Verdier       . .  .Shaded  crimson  scarlet 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons  Clear  rosy  pink,  shaded  flesh 

,,  ,,  Pale  sulphur  yellow 

Liabaud Light  silvery  pink 

Granger     Bright  shaded  crimson 

Lambert Pinkish  rose 

Bennett Bright  scarlet-crimson 


A  new  variety,  whose  position  is  dependent  on  its  record  lor  the  1907  show  only. 


A  beautiful  Wych  Hazel  (Hama- 

mellS  moUla). — Among  the  many  beautiful 
winter-flowering  shrubs  there  is  probably  none 
to  excel  the  Hamamelis,  commonly  known  as 
Wych  Hazel.  There  are  several  beautiful 
varieties,  but  none  to  excel  or  even  equal  the 
above  Chinese  species.  Wo  have  a  plant  here 
between  5  feet  and  6  feet  in  height,  well  propor- 
tioned and  literally  wreathed  with  its  attrac- 
tive flowers,  which  forms  a  most  conspicuous 
object  in  the  shrubberies.  It  began  to  open  its 
showy  flowers  the  first  week  in  January,  and  the 
severe  frosts  which  we  have  experienced  have 
not  appeared  to  injure  it  in  the  slightest.  I  am 
hardly  sure  when  this  variety  was  introduced  to 
this  country,  but  so  far  as  I  know  there  are  few 
larger  plants  than  the  one  we  have  here  at 
Aldenham.  Though  slow  growing,  it  has  done 
remarkably  well  since  planted  here  on  our  stiff, 
retentive  soil  in  a  position  fairly  south-west,  and 
no  one  who  is  interested  in  beautiful  shrubs, 
especially  for  flowering  at  this  season,  should 
fail  to  add  it  to  their  collection. — E.  Bfckett, 
Aldenham  Gardens,  Elslree,  Hertfi. 


Februaky  27,  1909. 


THE     GAEDEN. 


99 


The  "Kew  Bulletin."-The  January 
number  of  this  publication  contains  an  interestiug 
article  by  Mr.  George  Massee  on  the  dry 
scab  of  Potatoes  (Spondylocladiura  atrovirens), 
■which  up  to  the  present  was  believed  to  be 
absent   from  Great   Britain.      Other  interesting 

articles  are  devoted  to  "Australian  Pasture  j  of  December  9  was  held  on  the  day  succeeding 
Herbs ''  and  "  Some  Species  of  Impatieus  from  '  one  of  the  society's  fortnightly  meetings,  when 
Indo-China  and  the  Malayan  Peninsula."  !  there  were  exhibited    very    fine    collections   of 

The  NOPfolk  and  NOPWieh  I  these  Carnations— such,  in  fact,  as  would  largely 
HOPtieultUPal  Society.  —  This  society  I  make  up  the  sliow  of  the  succeeding  day — and  as 
has  had  several  reverses  at  its  recent  exhibitions,  i  the  spring  show  on  March  24  next  will  be  held 
so  that  the  annual  meeting  held  recently  was  ,  under  precisely  the  s.ime  conditions,  is  it  likely 
not  so  bright  as  usual.  The  society  has  been  |  that  visitors  on  the  one  day  to  the  Royal  Horti- 
holding  exhibitions  in  Norwich  and  district  for  I  cultural  Society's  meeting  would  attend  the  show 
seventy  years  and  has  done  much  good  horti-  |  on  the  following  day?  Doubtless  it  is  due  to 
cultural  work.  More  subscribers  are  needed,  this  that  the  Carnation  Society  had  such  a 
Let  us  hope  none  of  the  shows  will  be  diseoD-  |  poor  "gate'  on  December  9.  I  was  for  two  years 
tiuued,  as  was  hinted. — P.  trom  its  start  a  member;   but  when  I  found  that 

Changes  among'  the  Kew  staff.  '  the  Carnation  shows  were  largely  repetitions  of 
Mr.  W.  Dallimore,  who  for  some  years  past  has  '  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meetings  I 
had  charge  of  the  splendid  arboretum  at  Kew,  retired  from  membership.  Reall}',  so  far  the 
has  been  appointed  assistant  in  the  Museums  R'13'al  Horticultural  Society  seems,  by  the  free- 
< British  Forestry  Section),  and  takes  up  his  new  1  dom  with  which  it  places  space  at  the  disposal  of 
duties  early  in  March.      He   will,   we 


presume,  have 
museum  which 
the  late  Duke 
denoe,     which, 


charge  of  the  new 
has  been  formed  in 
of  Cambridge's  resi- 
together     with     the 


garden,  was  granted  to  the  public 
after  the  death  of  the  Duke.  Mr. 
Dallimore  has  a  very  extensive  know- 
ledge of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  his 
many  friends  will  be  pleased  to  hear 
of  his  appointment.  He  is  succeeded 
in  the  arboretum  by  Mr.  A.  Osborn, 
who  has  till  now  had  charge  of  the 
decorative  department,  which  includes 
the  bedding,  herbaceous  or  mixed 
border  and  House  No.  4. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

{The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the, 
opinions  expressed  by  correspondents. ) 

Cupid  Sweet  Peas  grown 

In  a  barrel.  —  In  the  special 
Sweet  Pea  number  of  The  Garden, 
which  was  really  very  fine  and  par- 
ticularly instructive,  I  noticed,  on 
page  78,  a  small  paragraph  on  Cupid 
Sweet  Peas  (with  illustration)  by  your 
correspondent  "  Northesk,"  Ethie 
Castle.  The  idea  of  growing  these 
in  tubs  is  no  doubt  good  if  only  the 
flower-buda  would  burst  instead  of 
dropping  off,  which  is  a  general  com- 
plaint. I  wonder  if  your  correspon- 
dent would  be  willing  to  give  in 
■detail,  through  your  columns,  the 
treatment  meted  out  to  them  to 
•  ibtain  a  display  similar  to  thvt  shown 
ill  The  Garden,  so  that  many  like  myself  could 
see  where  they  had  failed  and  apply  the  remedy. 


society.  Is  not  the  poor  attendance  of  the  public  I  at  a  recent  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
at  Its  shows  due  to  the  fact  that  the  membership  I  Society,  naturally  leads  to  the  query  why  it 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  now  practi-  |  should  be  found  possible  both  to  grow  and  store 
cally  includes  all,  or  nearly  all,  of  those  specially  i  so  well  until  February  such  a  grand  lot  of  fruit 
interested  in  the  cultn-ation  of  winter  or  per- :  and  yet  that  few,  if  any,  good  home-grown 
petual    Cirnatioiis;    and    as    the    recent    show  j  Apples  are  to  be  had  in  the  market.     It  would 

have  been  very  interesting  to  have  had,  by  some 
capable  market  salesman,  a  valuation  of  that 
collection  on  market  lines,  so  that  it  might  be 
shown  whether  growing  late  varieties,  though 
by  no  means  necessarily  so  many  of  them,  and 
storing  them  well  till  February,  was  likely  to 
pay.  That,  presumably,  is  the  test  which 
anyone  having  any  financial  interest  in  the 
matter  would  apply.  Probably  if  sold  at  20j.  per 
bushel  fruits  might  pay  well,  but  that  price 
would  cause  these  Apples  to  rival  the  famous 
golden  ones  of  the  Hesperides.  What  is  needed 
is  that  such  crops  shall  pay  to  grow  and 
store,  yet  be  in  the  market  within  reach  of 
ordinary  pockets. — A.  D. 

Lycaste  Skinneri.— The  accompanying 

illustration   of   this   popular    Orchid   is   from   a 

photograph  kindly  sent  to  us  by  Mr.  F.  Doherty, 

gardener  to   T.   J.   Jay,   Esq.,    Mount 

Avalon,    ( ilastonbury ,  and    the   plant 

was  grown  by  him. 

The  Royal   Hoptleultural 
Society's  new  competitions. 

The  provision  by  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society  of  a  series  of  classes  and 
prizes  at  the  fortnightly  meetings  of 
the  society  certainly  has  not  so  far 
met  with  an  encouraging  respon.se. 
The  proceeding  i'S  so  unusual  so  far 
as  the  society's  meetings  are  concerned 
that  the  gardening  world  does  not  seem 
to  have  realised  fully  the  change  th.-it 
has  come  over  the  scene.  At  the 
first  meeting  on  January  12,  out  of 
five  classes  for  Grapes  only  one  poor 
■  lot  of  two  bunches  was  staged.  On 
January  26,  out  of  seven  classes  three 
only  found  exhibits — two  in  one  class 
of  forced  Seakale  and  one  each  of 
Rhubarb  and  salads.  On  February  9. 
out  of  four  classes  only  one,  that  for 
single  dishes  of  late  Pears,  fiU.jd, 
four  dishes  being  staged.  Much  as 
may  be  deplored  the  loss  of  the 
October  fruit  show,  in  any  case  these 
competitions,  covering  so  many  pro- 
ducts all  the  year  through,  should 
secure  much  wider  support  than  has 
yet  been  seen.  It  is  very  probable 
that  the  competitions  have  not  yet  be- 
come sufficiently  known  to  attract 
those  who  have  the  required  produce 
at  their  disposal. — A. 

Rosa  laevigata  blooming 
at  ChPlstm^iS.  —  Since  writing  my 
note  on  "Unseasonable  Flowering  of 
Shrubs,"  page  27,  I  have  been  informed 
that  a  large  plant  of  Rosa  Ijevigata 
growing  near  Plympton,  South  Devon,  was  bear- 


LTCASTE  SKINNEBI   AS   GROWN   Br   A   READER. 


I  growers,  not  merely  twice  a  year,    but  twenty     ,^  ^  „     ^        , , 

-  ,  ^-,-  -    ,  ^      seven  times,  to  do  all  that  is  needed  to  encourage  1  ing  twelve  expanded  Bowers  on  Christmas  Day 

From  many  quarters  one  hears  that  they  are  not:  Carnation  growing  of  the  section  referred  to.  The  plant  in  question  has  reached  the  eaves 
worth  troubling  with  ;  but  one  thing  is  certain.  We  are  by  no  means  all  millionaires,  and  the  ]  of  the  house,  a  height  of  about  25  feet  and 
that  they  must  do  nominal  y  well  in  some  places,  demands  made  on  horticulturists,  whether  I  has  a  greater  breadth  It  is  naturally  a  summer 
or  how  comes  It  there  is  plenty  of  seed  on  sale?  I  professional  or  amateur,  to  support  various  i  or  rather  a  spring,  bloomer,  generilly  flowerine 
C.m  no  one  come  forward  and  help  to  perfect  societies  become  burdensome.  What  with  the  in  April  and  Ma|and  never  producing  autumnal 
what  would  certamly  be  a  very  welcome  addition  I  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  and  Rose,  Auricula,  !  blooms.     The  parent  plant  is  growing  at   Kings- 

'-    '"         '~"  "  wear.    South     Devon,     and    was   received   from 


totheSweetPeafamily.'— George  Tucker.  I  Dahlia,  Sweet  Pea,  Chrysanthemum,  summer 
— —  (^ould  we  have  more  information  about  Carnation  and  other  societies,  the  subscriptions 
the  Cupid  Sweet  Peas  grown  in  a  barrel,  shown  in  ;  yearly  become  a  heavy  tax.  This  should  infiuence 
The  Garden  for  the  13th  inst.  ?  Where  are  the  those  persons  of  enthusiastic  temperament  who 
holes  in  the  barrel  and  what  is  the  depth  of  the  ;  wish  to  start  some  new  horticultural  or  it  may 
soil,  &e.  ?— Suburb.  [Perhaps  "  Northesk "  will  be,  purely  florieultural  society.  It  is  perhaps 
kindly  obhge  with  fuller  details  of  his  system  of  :  the  fact  that  these  things  have  not  had 
■culture.  We  hope  other  readers  who  have  been  !  full  consideration  which  has  led  to  the  Per- 
Buecessful  in  growing  Cupid  Sweet  Peas  will  |  petual  -  flowering  Carnation  Society's  present 
send  concise  details  of  their  system,  so  that  these  ;  financial  position.  Evidently  a  much  wider 
■charming  little  flowers  may  be  more  extensively  i  range  of  supporters  is  needed.— A  D 
«nd  better  grown  than  they  are  at  present.  —Ed,  ] !  Well-kept  Apples.- The  truly  remark- 
The  WinteP-flOWePing  Capnation  I  able  collection  of  some  150  varieties  of  home- 
Soelety.— Mr.  Jacob  makes  an  appeal  to  your  grown  Apples  shown  by  that  famous  Kentish 
readers   on   behalf   of   this    comparatively    new  '  firm,  Messrs.  G.  Bunyard  and  Co.  of  Maidstone 


Abbotabad,  North-West  India,  many  years  ago. 
It  is  an  exceptionally  fine  form  of  Rosa  Isevigata, 
bearing  enormous,  pure  white,  single  blooms 
from  5.J  inches  to  6  inches  across,  far  larger  thin 
those  of  the  ordinary  R.  sinica,  which  is  held  t'> 
be  synonymous  with  R.  L-evigata  Young  plants 
of  this  Rose  have  been  distributed  to  several 
gardens  in  the  South- West,  so  it  should  become 
fairly  common.  It  is  not  found  to  do  well  on 
its  own  roots,  cuttings  never  forming  satis- 
factory plants;  but  on  the  Polyantha  stock  it 
makes  enormous  growth  and  is  very  healthy. 
Mi's  Willmott  grows  this  form  at  Tresserve. — S. 

W.  FiTZHERBBRT. 


100 


THE     GAllDEN. 


[February  27, 1909. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


THE    CULTIVATION    OF    THE 
NEAPOLITAN   VIOLET. 

{Continued    from   page    65.) 

TO  ensure  a  good  suoeession  of  flowers  a 
second  bed  might  be  made  up  six  or 
eight  weeks  after  the  first,  pursuing 
the  same  course.  Other  plants  may 
be  kept  under  hand-glasses,  and  will 
bloom  after  those  in  the  frames.  Some 
persons  prefer  taking  up  the  old  roots  and  dividing 
them,  atterwards  planting  them  in  a  bed  prepared 
as  previously  advised.  Personally,  I  do  not 
consider  them  equal  to  the  young  plants. 

Another  course  of  treatment,  and  one  which 
in  some  oases  may  be  preferable,  is  to  pot  the 
young  plants  carefully  into  6-inch  pots  instead 
of  planting  them  in  the  frames.  The  pots  are 
then  plunged  into  either  coal-ashes  or  spent  tan 
in  a  similar  frame,  and  their  treatment  subse- 
quently does  not  differ  from  that  already  detailed. 
This  plan  admits  of  the  removal  of  a  few  plants 
to  a  slightly  elevated  temperature,  if  they  are 
required  for  any  particular  purpose,  more  readily 
than  it  could  otherwise  be  done.  The  plants, 
when  nicely  in  flower,  might  also  be  removed  to 
the  sitting-room,  which  in  many  eases  might  be 
preferred  to  picking  the  blossoms  and  preserving 
them  by  placing  their  stalks  in  water.  Which- 
ever of  these  modes  is  followed,  the  requisites 
appear  to  be  healthy,  vigorous  plants,  light,  rich 
soil,  a  situation  in  winter  free  from  damp  and 
frost,  all  the  light  the  season  will  afford,  and  as 
little  water  artificially  applied  as  can  possibly  be 
made  sufficient. 

A  somewhat  more  simple  course,  though 
necessarily  one  in  which  the  results  are  not  so 
satisfactory,  is  to  provide  strong,  healthy  young 
plants  in  the  manner  already  recommended,  and 
in  September  take  them  up  and  carefully  pot 
them,  preserving  them  from  frost  in  any  cold 
frame,  removing  them  in  succession  to  the 
window  of  a  living-room.  So  treated,  they  bloom 
so  as  to  amply  repay  the  trouble  bestowed  on 
them.  It  is,  however,  very  necessary  to  be 
cautious  in  the  application  of  water.  The  single 
Russian  Violet,  which  eommenees  flowering  in 
autumn,  may  be  had  in  good  perfection  pre- 
viously to  the  time  the  Neapolitan  variety  com- 
mences flowering  by  removing  a  few  patches 
either  to  a  sheltered  corner,  or  placing  them  in  a 
frame  and  partially  protecting  them  by  the  glass 
sashes  in  inclement  weather.  This  variety,  though 
much  less  handsome  than  the  Neapolitan,  isequally 
fragrant,  and,  therefore,  forms  a  very  desirable 
substitute  for  that  kind.  Of  the  two  varieties  of 
Neapolitan  Violets,  that  with  double  flowers  is 
most  extensively  cultivated,  on  account  of  the 
superior  beauty  of  its  blossoms.  R.  Gill. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

In  my  notes  on  the  season's  novelties  I  finished 
my  paragraph  in  which  the  great  name  of 
Eckford  appeared  just  a  little  too  soon,  for  the 
names  of  the  splendid  sorts  he  is  offering  to 
an  eager  public  were  omitted.  However,  the 
error  is  soon  rectified,  and  special  attention  is 
called  to  Annie  B.  Gilroy,  cerise ;  tho  raiser 
describes  this  as  peculiarly  well  adapted  for 
evening  dinner-tables,  as  the  colour  lights  up  so 
charmingly.  Dodwell  F.  Browne  is  a  waved 
King  Edward,  and  may,  therefore,  be  close  to 
The  King  and  King  Edward  Spencer ;  but 
coming  from  Wem  it  is  sure  to  be  good.  Mrs. 
Charles  Masters  is  a  bicolor  of  rosy  salmon  and 
cream,  and  should  be  a  welcome  addition  to  this 
section  if  the  colour  holds  well  in  the  flower,  as  is 
not  the  case  with  the  majority  of  the  bicolors. 

Seeds  in  Pols  and  Bo.ces. — It  is,  of  course, 
essential  to  complete  success  that  the  seeds  sown 
in  pots  or  boxes  in  the  greenhouse  or  frame 
shall  have  proper  attention,  particularly  in 
regard  to  watering.  One  of  the  most  frequent 
causes  of  failure  in    this  system    of    culture    is 


excessive  watering.  Amateurs  do  not  appear 
to  be  able  to  grasp  the  fact  that  soil  becomes 
sour  much  more  quickly  when  it  is  not  occupied 
by  roots,  and  if  they  persist  in  watering 
the  probabilities  are  that  the  seeds  will  rot, 
because  the  soil  is  made  and  kept  so  cold  that 
germination  is  impossible.  It  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  the  vegetation  of  the  seed  that  some 
moisture  shall  be  present  in  the  soil,  and  it  is 
for  the  grower  to  exercise  his  common  sense  in 
giving  water,  so  that  the  soil  is  always  what 
gardeners  term  pleasantly  moist. 

The  rule  should  be  to  give  water  just  in 
advance  of  perfect  dryness  of  the  soil,  and  each 
pot  must  be  treated  as  an  individual  in  this 
matter,  its  sides  being  sharply  rapped  with  i  hs 
knuckles  before  any  is  applied.  To  water  all  as 
they  come  along  is  to  court  disaster,  as  the  soil 
in  all  the  pots  never  dries  out  at  precisely  the 
same  moment.  The  greatest  care  must  be  taken 
with  those  varieties  having  white  skins,  as  these 
are  far  more  liable  to  decay,  and  must  be  kept 
rather  drier  than  the  others,  and  preferably  be 
sown  in  a  surfacing  of  sand.  If  the  seedlings  do 
not  appear  within  a  reasonable  time,  the  soil 
should  De  carefully  loosened,  the  Feeds  removed, 
and  if  it  is  found  that  they  are  still  quite  sound, 
the  skins  should  be  chipped  to  encourage  growth 
and  the  seeds  resown. 

Until  the  seedlings  commence  to  show  through 
the  surface  of  the  soil  it  is  permissible  to  keep 
the  boxes  covered  with  glass  and  brown  p  iper,  as 
this  reduces  the  frequency  of  watering  ;  but  as 
soon  as  they  are  seen  full  light  is  imperative. 
If  the  pots  and  pans  are  in  a  greenhouse,  the 
receptacles  must  be  elevated  until  they  are  cloie 
up  to  the  glass,  for  if  they  remain  down  on  the 
flat  stages  it  is  certain  that  the  juveniles  will 
quickly  start  to  run  up  to  it,  and  weakly,  leggy 
seedlings  result.  If  they  are  in  frames  and  the 
lights  are  on,  the  sime  rule  holds  good.  In 
either  case,  however,  it  is  necessary  to  allow  an 
abundance  of  fresh  air.  Stuffiness  of  the 
atmosphere  will  encourage  a  sappy  growth,  which 
will  demand  considerable  care  in  hardening  prior 
to  planting  out  if  no  check  is  to  be  given. 

As  soon  as  possible  after  germination  the  plants 
ought  to  be  put  in  cold  frames,  and  the  lights 
should  never  be  on  in  the  daytime  except  during 
torrential  rains,  snow  or  very  severe  frosts. 
Keeping  off  the  lights  in  this  manner  exposes 
the  plants  to  the  visitations  of  birds  unless 
steps  are  taken  to  exclude  them,  and  the  easiest 
method  of  accomplishing  this  is  to  make  a  frame- 
work the  same  size  as  the  light  and  attach  to  it 
some  small-meshed  wire-netting,  this  being  always 
on  when  the  frame  is  open.  To  leave  it  ofl'  for 
an  hour  or  two  while  one  goes  to  attend  to  some 
other  task  will  almost  assuredly  mean  a  visit,  and 
while  topping  is  undoubtedly  good  when  under 
intelligent  control,  it  is  not  wise  on  the  part  of  the 
grower  to  allow  the  birds  to  do  such  important 
work  for  him.  Abundance  of  fresh  air,  protection 
from  enemies,  and  water  as  may  be  necessary  are 
the  essentials  to  success.  Spencer. 


COLOURED     PLATE 

PLATE    1S6S. 


NEMESIA  HYBRIDA  BLUE  GEM. 

A   S  annuals  for  summer  bedding  the  various 

/\  Nemesias  are  excellent,  and  all  those 

/  %         who  have  grown  the  many  beautiful 

/      \        coloured  varieties  now  so  well  known 

y         ^     will,  we  think,  welcome  this  latest 

and  unique  addition  to  their  ranks. 

As  will  be    seen    in    the    coloured    plate,   this 

Nemesia  is  of  compact  habit,  its  average  height 

being   about   8   inches,    hence    it    is    splendidly 

adapted  for  edgings  or  even  for  filling  beds  to 

provide   a   summer  and   autumn  display.      It  is 

remarkably  free-flowering,  the  plants  being  quite 

covered  with  the  charming  Myosotis-blue  flowers, 

a  colour  of  which  we  have  very  little  after  the 

Forget-me-nots  have  finished  their  display.     The 


usual  culture  given  to  Nemesias  answers  admir- 
ably for  Blue  Gem.  It  was  raised  by  Messrs. 
Watkins  and  Simpson,  the  well-known  whole- 
sale seedsmen  of  Tavistock  Street,  Covent 
Garden,  London,  W.C. ,  and  seeds  are  now 
obtainable  from  all  retail  seedsmen.  Such  a  unique 
acquisition  deserves  a  place  in  every  garden,  and 
will,  we  think,  become  very  popular. 


ORCHIDS. 


AUTUMN  AND  WINTER  FLOWERING 
CYPRIPEDIUMS  AND  HOW  TO 
GROW    THEM. 

ORCHIDS  in  the  section  chosen  for  this 
article  have  many  points  to  recom- 
mend them  totheamateurand  those 
'  who  have  to  supply  cut  flo«ers 
during  the  dullest  part  of  the  year. 
Their  lasting  qualities,  whether  on 
the  plant  or  in  a  out  state,  their  fog-resisting 
power  and  easy  culture  place  them  at  once  in  the 
select  circle  of  decorative  Orchids.  The  varie- 
ties of  C.  insigne  are  practically  legion,  and 
where  space  is  limited  one  cannot  do  better  than, 
secure  C.  insigne  Sanderre  and  Harefield  Hall, 
the  former  representing  the  yellow  group  and 
the  latter  the  spotted  forms.  Other  species  are 
C.  spicerianum,  fairieanum,  Boxallii  and  villo- 
sum.  Among  the  hybrids  we  have  C.  lathami- 
anum,  nitens,  arthurianum,  Niobe,  leeanum  with 
its  varieties  superbum  and  clinkaberryanuni. 
Baron  Schriider,  Tityus  superbum,  ct-nanthura 
and  Euryades. 

Cultural  Details. — The  best  time  to  repot  any 
Cypripedium  is  immediately  after  flowering, 
using  a  mixture  as  follows  :  One-half  of  the  best 
fibrous  loam  procurable,  one-fourth  good  peat 
and  one-fourth  chopped  sphagnum  moss,  with  n 
sprinkling  of  crushed  crojks  and  silver  sand,  sa)', 
a  6-inoh  potful  to  every  bushel  of  the  compost. 
Ordinary  flower-pots  should  be  chosen,  and  only 
a  few  potsherds  are  necessary  for  drainage,  over 
which  should  be  placed  a  thin  layer  of  loj,m  when 
tho  receptacle  is  ready  to  receive  the  plant.  When 
repotting  all  the  old  soil  should  be  removed,  taking 
care  not  to  injure  the  roots,  and  if  the  specimen  is 
a  large  one,  a  few  lumps  of  the  mixture  must  be 
arranged  between  the  roots  before  placing  the 
plant  in  the  pot  Having  done  this,  more  soil 
should  be  worked  in  (noting  that  there  is  no 
vacant  space  as  the  operation  proceeds)  till 
within  half  an  inch  of  the  rim,  thus  leaving 
anfple  room  for  watering.  j 

After  the  repotting  is  completed,  the  usual  I 
method  is  to  arrange  them  in  a  batch  and  water  • 
them  in  with  a  fine-rosed  can,  while  the  sur- 
roundings are  kept  moist  by  syringing  between 
them  twice  or  three  times  each  day,  according  to 
the  weather  and  the  amount  of  fire-heat  required. 
An  average  temperature  of  60*  Fahr.  is  raosB 
suitable  for  the  Cypripediums  mentioned  above; 
but  should  it  be  frosty,  a  few  degrees  lower  will 
do  no  harm,  providing  the  atmosphere  is  not 
excessively  charged  with  moisture.  Through  the 
summer  months  a  light  spray  overhead  is  advised 
to  encourage  free  and  healthy  growth,  and  also 
to  check  thrips  and  other  insect  pests.  If,  how- 
ever, the  latter  do  make  their  appearance,  fumi- 
gate with  XL  All  two  nights  in  succession,  an(" 
previous  to  starting  the  lamps  a  gentle  dew  over 
the  plants  will  drive  out  the  thrips  to  sure 
destruction. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  all  strong- rooting 
Orchids  such  as  the  Cj^pripediums  need  a  rich 
rooting  medium,  and  to  obtain  the  finest  results 
the  old  idea  of  half  filling  the  receptacles  will 
drainage  and  raising  the  plants  above  the  rimf 
must  be  rigorously  excluded.  For  watering  an 
spraying  purposes  tepid  rain-water  ought  always 
to  be  used.  Some  growers  advocate  weak  liquid 
manure  occasionally  :  but  where  the  plants  are 
properly  attended  to  and  repotted  every  other 
year,  this  is  not  required.  Sentisel. 


i 


Fei'.ruary  27,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


101 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 

A   HEDGE   OF    ROSES. 

IF  one  would  see  the  full  beauty  of  many 
varieties  of  Roses,  they  should  be  planted 
to  form  hedges  or  dividing  lines  in  the 
Rose  garden,  where  their  natural  mode  of 
growth  may  be  given  full  scope  for  almost 
unfettered  development.  In  the  illustra- 
tion we  see  what  may  be  accomplished  with  such 
A  delightful  variety  as  the  thornless  Rose 
Zepherin  Drouhin.  Here  we  have  free  blooming 
ciMiibined  with  the  vigour  of  the  moderate  type, 
not  that  rampant  growth  which  one  associates  with 
hedges  of  the  Crimson  Rambler,  Dorothy  Perkins 
or  Hybrid  Sweet  Briar  groups.  Now  that  so 
much  attention  is  concentrated  upon  having  as 
it  were  perpetual-flowering  Rose  gardens,  it 
seems  most  fitting  that  such  sorts  as  Zepherin 
Drouhin  should  be  em- 
ployed for  the  more  moderate 
hedges.  It  is  a  delightful 
Rose,  of  that  beautiful  cerise 
colouring  that  never  fails  to 
charm,  and  it  is  delioiously 
fragrant. 

One  is  surprised  that  such 
a  Rose  was  allowed  to  almost 
drop  out  of  cultivation,  for 
it  was  raised  some  thirty- 
five  years  ago  by  M.  Bizot, 
and  was  known  for  some 
time  in  England  under  the 
name  of  Mme.  Gvistave 
Bonnet.  It  was  some  five  or 
six  years  ago  that  it  aroused 
attention,  and  forms  another 
instance  where  we  owe  a 
debt  of  gratitude  to  the  hor- 
ticultural Press  for  redis- 
covering such  a  gem. 

Some  very  beautiful  varie- 
ties for  hedges,  growing  to  a 
height  of  some  i  feet  to 
6  feet,  and  worthy  com- 
panions to  Zepherin  Drouhin, 
would  be  the  following  : 

Hybrid  Teas. — Mme. 
Wagram,  Bardou  Job,  J.  B. 
Clark,  Ards  Pillar,  Climbing 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Lina 
Schmidt  Michel,  Lady 
Waterlow,  La  France  de  '89, 
Oraoe  Darling,  Hector  Mac- 
kenzie, Johanna  Sebus,  Griiss 
an  Teplitz,  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay,  La  Tosoa,  Sarah 
Bernhardt,  Frangois  Crousse, 
Longworth  Rambler,  Gus- 
tavo Grimerwald,  Pharisaer 
and  Ma  Tulipe. 

Tea  Scented.  —  Corallina, 
Warrior,  Marie  van  Houtte, 
Sombrieul,  G.  Nabonnand, 
Peace,  Mme.  Lambard  and 
Marie  d'Orl^ans. 

Noisette.  —  Floribunda,  Souvenir  de  Prince 
Charles  d'Areuberg,  W.  A.  Richardson  and 
Alister  Stella  Gray. 

Chinese  or  Bengal.  —  Fellenberg,  Armosa, 
Queen  Mab,  Jean  Bach  Sisley,  Baronne  Piston  de 
St.  Cyr,  Laurette  Messimy  and  Common  Pink. 

Hybrid  Bourbon. — Mrs.  Paul,  Mme.  Isaac 
Pereire,  Gloire  des  Rosomanes  and  Mme.  Pierre 
Oger. 

Perpetual  Scotch. — Stanwell  Perpetual,  Rugosa, 
Blanc  Double  de  Courbet,  Mme.  G.  Bruant,  Mrs. 
Anthony  Waterer,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Single  Red 
and  Single  White. 

Multiflora. — Perpetual  Thalia,  Hybrid  Briars, 
<Jottfreid  Keller  and  Soleil  d'Or. 

When  about  to  plant  hedges  of  this  description 
let  the  ground  be  trenched  about  2  feet  deep  and 
■2  feet  wide  if  a  single  row  is  to  be  planted,  and 
3  feet  wide  if  a  double  row.  Personally  I  think  a 
single  row  is  quite  sufficient.     The  plants  should 


be  about  3  feet  apart,  as  this  allows  the  branches 
to  be  tied  out  to  the  right  and  left  a  little — a 
very  good  plan  to  adopt,  as  it  encourages  basal 
growths  later  on.  One  or  two  stout  wires 
stretched  between  moderately  thick  posts  would 
enable  one  to  tie  out  the  shoots  in  the  manner 

!  described.  Do  very  little  pruning  the  first  year. 
Simply  tie  out  the  branches  and  remove  their 
extreme  ends.     Where  a  growth  appears  at  all 

i  soft  it  may  be  cut  clean  out.  The  second  year 
one  must  prune  a  little,  but  not  much,  for  it  is 
not  quality  of  bloom  we  want  so  much  as 
quantity,  and  if  the  plants  are  well  rooted  in 
good  trenched  soil  they  may  safely  be  left  to  look 
after  themselves.  It  is  as  well  when  trenching 
to  add  some  basic  slag  to  the  lower  spit  of  soil  in 
addition  to  the  farmyard  manure.  When  estab- 
libhed  these  hedges  appreciate  liquid  manure 
equally  as  much  as  the  exhibition  plants  and  will 
well  repay  such  attention. 


BANKSIAN    KOSES. 

Although  very  tender  and  only  suitable  for  a 
few  situations,  these  are  exceptionally  charming 
where  they  thrive,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  better 
place  for  them  than  in  the  cool  conservatory-like 
hall  found  in  some  old  houses.  Hardly  any 
pruning  is  necessary  ;  it  suffices  to  cut  out  old 
wood  and  thin  when  overcrowded.  There  are 
two  white  varieties,  and  I  wish  to  call  attention 
to  their  difference,  as  several  have  complained 
who  had  the  variety  Fortunei  instead  of  Banksia 
alba.  The  first  is  a  pure  white  with  flowers  a 
little  larger  than  a  shilling  and  borne  singly. 
Banksia  alba,  on  the  other  hand,  produces  its 
flowers  in  large  trusses,  the  individual  blooms  of 
which  are  not  much  larger  than  a  sixpence. 
It  is  by  far  the  better  variety,  as  Fortunei  is  not 
only  single  flowered,  but  a  very  shy  bloomer. 
Banksia  lutea  is  the  same  asB.  alba,  except  that  the 


A   HEDGE   OF  R0SB3  IN  MESSRS.    MERRY WEATHEE  3  NURSERY,   SOUTHWELL. 


I  strongly  recommend  these  hedges,  and  con- 
sider they  should  be  more  frequently  arranged 
for  in  the  formation  of  new  Rose  gardens.  For 
encircling  the  Rose  garden  naturally  we  shall 
want  the  more  vigorous  varieties,  on  the  north 
and  east  sides  especially,  and  we  must  have 
recourse  to  the  wichuraiana  and  multiflora 
sections,  with  the  sempervirens,  Ayrshire  and 
Hybrid  Sweet  Briars. 

One  chief  item  to  remember  is  to  remove 
annually  some  of  the  old  wood  right  down 
to  the  ground,  then  the  hedges  are  kept  in 
a  thrifty  condition,  for  nothing  is  so  dis- 
appointing as  to  see  a  tall,  gaunt  hedge 
with  no  new  basal  growths  and,  consequently, 
little  or  no  bloom  save  at  the  top  of  the 
hedge.  The  photograph  from  which  the  illus- 
tiation  was  prepared  was  taken  in  the  nurseries 
of  Messrs.  H.  Merryweather  and  Sous,  Limited, 
Southwell.  P. 


colour  is  deep  yellow.  Both,  but  especially  the 
white  variety,  are  very  sweetly  scented.     A.  P. 

ROSE    MME.    ALFRED    CARRIERE. 

This  ought  always  to  be  reckoned  as  one  of  the 
indispensable  Roses  for  the  garden,  and  even 
those  who  have  large  collections  of  Roses  of  its 
class  are  enthusiastic  in  its  praises.  It  has  hand- 
some foliage,  which  is  generally  healthy  and  free 
from  ordinary  Rose  troubles,  while  the  large 
white  flowers  are  lovely  in  form  and  tinged 
with  just  a  touch  of  blush.  It  is  a  splendid 
Rose  for  arches,  pillars,  pergolas  and  trellises, 
and  on  any  of  these  will  be  delightful  for  a  long 
season,  as  the  blooms  are  produced  almost  con- 
tinuously until  well  into  winter  in  favourable 
situations  and  in  moderate  seasons.  It  will 
give  satisfaction  when  many  others  of  its  class 
fail.  Sub-Rosa 


102 


THE     GAKiJExX. 


I  February  27,  1909. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN, 


SOME  GOOD  CULINARY   PLUMS. 

1'^HE  Plum  illustrated  (Cox's  Emperor) 
19  a  well-known  variety  and  heads 
the  list  of  good  cooking  Plums  when 
in  season.  Few  fruits  vary  more 
than  the  Plum,  as  in  some  soils,  with 
Very  indifferent  culture,  a  variety 
will  bear  grand  crops,  whereas  in  other  soils, 
even  if  given  special  culture,  it  fruits  sparingly. 
I  have  seen  the  above  variety  in  amateurs'  and 
cottagers'  gardens  in  the  West  of  England 
cropping  so  freely  and  regularly  that  the  trees 
were  a  source  of  profit,  and  in  other  places  it 
has  been  almost  a  failure.  Certainly  the  soil 
has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  fertility,  and  Plums 
do  not  like  severe  pruning.  If  cut  hard  every 
year  the  trees  make  a  lot  of  thin 
wood,  but  few  fruit-spurs.  As  a 
cordon  I  have,  in  the  open,  found 
Cox's  Emperor  far  less  profitable 
than  when  grown  with  more  freedom, 
and  this  applies  generally  to  the 
strong-growing  sorts.  By  this,  how- 
ever, I  do  not  mean  the  trees  should 
never  be  pruned  —  thinning  out 
crowded  wood  is  most  beneficial,  and 
when  this  is  done  much  better  fruit 
is  obtained  —  neither  do  I  advise 
the  large  cooking  Plums  grown  as 
espaliers. 

Better  results    are    secured    from 
standards    and   pyramids   when    thy 
roots    are    occasionally   root-pruned, 
and  in  soils  deficient  of  lime  or  chalk 
a  liberal  quantity  of  old  fine  mortar, 
chalk  or  burnt  refuse  should  be  plact  d 
near  the   roots  after  the  operation. 
This      made      thoroughly     firm     by 
ramming   will   olten    ensure   a    crop 
when  other  means  fail.     An  amateur 
recently   asked   me,    "  Do   my   large 
Plum   trees   want   manure  ? "   and   I 
said,  "  No,  they  have  been  too  well 
treated."     They  had  been   severely 
pruned,  the  roots  heavily  manured, 
and  the  result  was  a  forest  of  leaf- 
buds  and  scarcely  any  fruit,  and  the 
trees,   owing  to   the   hard    pruning, 
were  gumming   badly.      I   note  this 
to   show   that   Plums   require    more 
freedom,  and  if  curbed  at  the  roots 
top    pruning    is    a    simple    matter. 
Each   year   the  trees  make  a   lot  of 
flEuiting  wood,  and  judicious  thinning 
;  out  suffices,  say,  once  in  three  years. 
'  ~   The  variety  illustrated  is  also  well 
!■■  known  in  the  Midlands  and  western 
I  parts  of  the  country  as  the  Denbigh 
Plum,     the     large,    handsome    fruit 
being  a  roundieh  oval,  skin  a   dark 
red  covered  with  small  dots   and   a 
thin  bluish  bloom  ;    indeed,  in  many 
respects     it    closely    resembles    the 
well-known  Pond's  Seedling,  but  is 
a     shorter     fruit.       It     has    yellow 
flesh,   which   does  not  leave  the   stone   readily. 
The  fruits   ripen   at   the   middle  of   September. 
In    a    northern    part    of    the    country    I    have 
grown  Cox's  Emperor  on  an  east  wall  and  thus 
obtained   excellent  results  when  it   failed   as   a 
slandard  ;  indeed,  many  of  our  best  Plums  well 
repay  wall  protection,  placing  the  dessert  varie- 
ties   on    a    wall    with    a     good    aspect.      Cox's 
Emperor   also  does   well  in   many  parts   of  the 
country  on   a  north  wall,  care   being   taken   to 
train  in  new  wood  freely.     The  northern  position 
retards   the   blossoming   peridd,    and    the    trees 
with  sharp  frost  in  a  late  spring  escape,  wherea?^ 
in  the  open  they  are  injured,  so  that  there  is  a 
considerable    gain    by    growing     the    Plum     in 
different  positions. 

No  note  on  Plums  would  be  complete  that  did 
not  mention  the  value  of  such  excellent  cooking 
sorts    as  Victoria,    a   well  -  known   variety    and 


probably  the  best  amateurs'  Plum  grown  ;  Early 
Orleans  or  Wilmot's  Plum  for  August  supplies  ; 
and  Rivers'  Early  Prolific  for  first  use.  This  ripens 
late  in  July  and  the  tree  is  of  medium  vigour, 
doing  well  as  a  small  standard.  On  a  wall  it  ripens 
much  earlier,  and  is  by  no  means  a  bad  dessert 
variety  when  grown  thus.  The  Czar  must  not 
be  omitted  for  August  use  ;  this  is  excellent  for 
cooking  or  dessert.  Belgian  Purple  is  a  reliable 
bearer  ;  it  is  a  rich  red  fruit  and  grows  where 
others  fail.  Washington  also  is  a  very  good, 
large,  yellow  Plum,  but  requires  root-pruning  at 
times.  In  the  Midland  Counties  the  Pershore 
Egg  Plum  is  a  great  favourite  on  account  of  its 
grand  cropping  qualities  :  it  is  not  a  rich  fruit, 
but  most  useful  for  cooking  purposes.  I  have 
already  referred  to  Pond's  Seedling,  and  for  later 
supplies  President  is  excellent.  Monarch  also 
is  a  grand  fruit,  a  little  earlier  than  President, 


prove  to  be  really  very  satisfying  to  the  amateur. 
There  are,  however,  obstacles  in  the  way  ;  there 
are  right  and  wrong  methods  of  treatment  and 
insect  pests  and  diseases  to  be  met  and  overcome. 
Probably  many  enthusiasts  are  contemplating  the 
building  of  new  vineries,  others  the  alteration 
of  existing  ones  or  the  replanting  with  new  Vines, 
and  any  hints  on  these  matters  will  perhaps  be 
useful. 

The  ]^ew  Vinery. — I  will  refer  to  the  new 
vinery  first.  Its  position  is  an  important  point 
to  settle.  In  connexion  with  its  erection  drainage 
must  be  considered.  Never  build,  if  it  can 
possibly  be  avoided,  so  that  the  border  in  which 
the  Vines  are  to  grow  is  below  the  surrounding 
ground,  especially  if  the  position  is  such  that  a 
drain  cannot  be  laid  and  connected  with  a  free 
outlet.  A  border  above  the  ground  level,  if  only 
a  little,  is  much  warmer  than  one  below  it,  and 
it  must  be  remembered  that  Vines 
love  warmth,  especially  at  the  roots. 
Heat  is  husbanded  better  in  a  lean-to 
structure  than  in  a  span-roofed  one, 
and  this  means  economy  in  fuel. 
Vines  require  light,  too,  and  of 
course  they  get  more  of  it  in  the 
latter  kind  of  structure.  Local  cir- 
cumstances must  be  taken  into 
account,  and  so  I  say  build  a  lean-to 
or  a  span-roofed  house,  whichever 
is  best  adapted  to  them.  Always 
choose  high  ground,  a  site  facing 
the  south  or  south-west,  and  not  the 
north,  north-west  or  north-east.  The 
maximum  amount  of  sunshine  should 
be  secured  for  the  Vines.  A  lean-to 
from  !)  feet  to  15  feet  wide  will  do 
nicely,  or  a  span-roofed  house  from 
12  feet  to  18  feet  wide  ;  the  length, 
of  course,  will  be  optional.  High 
structures  are  difficult  to  heat  with 
success.  The  lowest  may  be  9  feet 
and  the  highest  should  not  exceed 
16  feet.  A  good  foundation  must  be 
put  in  and  the  best  red  deal  used, 
painted  with  four  coats,  namely, 
two  before  glazing  and  two  after. 
Use  21oz.  glass  throughout.  Embed 
the  glass  in  the  putty  firmly  and 
fasten  down  the  squares  with  sprigs ; 
do  not  use  putty  outside,  as  it  gets 
separated  in  time  from  the  wood, 
water  soaks  in  and  the  decay  of  the 
wood  follows.  The  initial  cost 
less  and  the  upkeep,  too,  than  where 
top  putty  is  used. 

Heating. — Put  in  a  boiler  of  simple 

construction    and    plenty    of    pipes. 

A  few   would  need  heating   to   the 

jt  .iS^Bv-  ""5S^^^««^^^  extreme     to     maintain    a    sufficient 

^^m  -^^^ft'  \  SIHB^^^k  temperature   in    the    house,    and   so 

jfM^t  ~3fc   A  JW^^^^^^Hfc  '^  prove    harmful;    but  by  putting   in 

"'^^SBF  jiHk.  .^I^^^^^H^^  three  rows  instead  of   two,    or   two 

rows  all  round  the  house  instead  of 
only  along  the  front  wall,  the 
required  heat  would  be  obtained  if 
the  pipes  were  moderately  warm, 
and  this  would  be  beneficial.  For 
a  good  cooking  variety  and  keeps  well  in  wet  |  very  small  structures  boilers  which  do  not  need 
seasons.  G.  Wythbs.      |  brickwork  in  the  setting  are  the  best.    For  larger 

I  houses   upright   slow -combustion   or  check -end 

'  saddle  boilers  will  give  satisfaction.  Avon. 

(To  he  continued.) 


A    (lOOD    SPB.-iY    OF    I'LUM    COX  S    E-MPEROR. 


HINTS  ON  VINE  CULTURE, 
While  chatting  recently  with  an  amateur  about 
his  garden,  he  remarked  on  the  pleasure  he 
derived  from  growing  things  in  it,  and  added, 
"I  grow  everything  myself.''  Now,  there  are 
thousands  of  amateur  gardeners  who  do  the 
same,  and  the  great  majority  of  them  would 
welcome  helpful  hints  on  one  of  the  most 
fascinating  branches  of  gardening  under  glass, 
namely,  Grape-growing.  To  watch  the  bursting 
bud,  then  to  inhale  the  fragrance  of  the  flowers 
in  spring,  to  be  followed  by  the  delicate  work  of 
thinningout  the  berries  and,  finally,  to  gather  the 
golden-amber  or  blue-black  clusters  of  ripe  fruit, 
and  to  bo  able  to  say  with  pride,  "  I  grew  them," 


TYING 


FRUIT 


AND  TRAINING 
TREES. 
In  tying  young  trees  see  that  the  ties  are  not, 
made  tight.  Another  danger  which  must  be 
averted  is  the  main  branches  coming  in  contact 
with  the  wires.  This  is  a  common  cause  of  canker, 
and  likely  to  result  in  permanent  injury  to  the 
trees.  A  thin  piece  of  wood  placed  between  the 
branch  and  wire  will  prevent  this  evil.  In  the 
case  of  nailing,  do  not  drive  the  nails  so  near  the 
branches  as  to  injure  them.  This  also  is  often 
the  cause  of  tanker. 


February  27,  1909.] 


THE     GAliDEN. 


103 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


HOW  TO  GROW  MELONS  IN  FRAMES. 

JUST  now  a  good  deal  is  being  read  and 
heard  about  the  wonders  of  the  French 
garden,  with  its  fine  crops  of  early 
Lettuces,  Radishes,  Cucumbers,  Carrots, 
Melons,  &c.  ;  but  it  is  about  the  Melon 
in  particular  that  I  ask  readers'  opinions. 
Do  I  understand  that  the  Melons  are  to  be  grown 
in  the  very  rich  soil  advised  for  the  other 
crops  V  If  so,  I  rather  fancy  we  shall  have  a 
very  fine  frame  full  of  leaves  at  the  expense  of 
fruits.  My  own  experience  is  that  the  Melon 
does  far  best  in  moderately  poor  soil,  and  to 
convince  other  readers  I  enclose  a  photograph 
of  one  of  our  frames  with  an  account  of  the 
method  of  culture  which  I  follow.  The  variety 
is  Sutton's  Royal  Jubilee,  and  I  find  none  to  beat 
it,  either  in  the  setting  of  the  fruit,  the  growth 
of  the  plant,  or  the  flavour. 

We  start  our  frame  about  the  last  week  of 
February.  We  first  shake  into  a  heap  about 
three  loads  of  long  stable  manure,  after  five  or 
six  days  we  turn  it,  well  shaking  it  to  pieces,  and 
rebuild  the  heap,  repeating  the  process  twice 
more.  Then  we  make  up  the  bed  so  that  it  is 
1  foot  longer  and  wider  than  the  frames,  each  of 
which  is  8  feet  by  6  feet.  We  never  tread  our  beds, 
but  just  beat  the  manure  down  with  our  forks 
as  tlie  work  proceeds.  When  it  is  finished  we 
lift  the  frame  into  position,  put  on  the  lights  and 
let  all  settle  down  together  for  three  days.  We 
then  give  the  bed  a  good  hard  scratch  down  all 
round  with  a  fork  to  remove  all  loose  straw, 
which  is  packed  on  the  outside  for  a  lining. 

Then  we  prepare  the  inside.  First  we  place 
5  inches  or  6  inches  of  ordinary  garden  soil  all 
over,  then  mix  together  four  bushels  of  turfy 
loam  (chopped  up  with  a  spade),  one  bushel  of 
leaf-mould  and  a  little  wood  ashes,  and  this  we 
equalise  into  four  heaps,  two  under  each  light. 
As  soon  as  the  bed  has  warmed  through,  which 
will  be  in  two  or  three  days,  a  thermometer  should 
be  plunged  into  it,  and  when  it  reads  75"  to  80° 
it  is  ready  for  the  plants.  I  can  always  tell 
when  theC  bed  is  right  by  thrusting  my  hand 
through  one  of  the  heaps,  but  as  a  guide  to  the 
inexperienced  a  thermometer  must  be  used,  as 
sometimes  the  beds  are  too  hot  for  several  days. 
The  plants  we  raise  in  3-ineh  pots  in  a  bed 
prepared  in  the  same  way  as  for  Cucumbers 
in  January.  We  place  one  plant  in  each  heap  ; 
at  the  same  time  a  seed  is  put  in  beside  it. 
as  this  will  save  time  should  the  plant  from 
any  reason  damp  off  or  die.  Should  both 
grow,  the  one  from  the  seed  must,  of  course, 
be  taken  away.  As  soon  as  the  plants  have 
grown  four  or  five  rough  leaves  the  tops  are 
pinched  out,  and  this  causes  them  to  send  out 
l)lenty  of  side  growths.  These  are  trained  all 
over  the  bed,  and  as  soon  as  enough  blooms  are 
<iut  we  go  over  all  very  carefully  by  hand  to 
ensure  fertilisation.  Each  side  break  is  pinched 
off  one  joint  ahead  of  each  fruit.  We  always 
try  to  set  all  the  blooms  at  one  time,  so  that  all 
I  lie  fruits  swell  together;  if  they  are  done  at 
<idd  times  some  get  the  lead  and  the  others 
never  seem  to  get  any  size.  In  the  early  stages 
of  the  bed  a  little  air  must  be  allowed  always  to 
let  the  steam  escape  ;  just  a  little  at  one  corner 
is  all  that  is  needed. 

The  frame  should  face  due  south,  as  the  very 
life  of  the  Melon  is  plenty  of  sun.  We  never 
shade  ours,  but  give  plenty  of  air  whenever 
possible,  that  is,  when  the  sun  gets  more  power- 
ful and  the  wind  is  not  too  rough.  We  give  a 
good  syringing  twice  a  day  when  the  plants  get 
strong,  but  keep  them  quite  dry  for  a  week  or  ten 
days  when  we  are  about  to  fertilise.  As  soon  as 
the  fruits  are  swelling  a  good  watering  is  given 
with  tepid  water;  indeed,  we  never  use  cold 
water  at  all.  Several  good  waterings  are  given 
through  the  growing  season,  but  water  must  be 
withheld  when  the  fruits  begin  to  ripen  or  they 


the  illus- 


will   split.       In   the   frame   shown 
tration  we  had  nineteen  good  Melons. 
Danehurst,  Epsom,  Surrey.      George  Boyd. 


SPINACH  AND  SEAKALE  BEET. 
Everyone  who  has  had  to  cultivate  Spinach  will 
be  well  aware  of  the  summer  varieties'  propensity 
for  bolting  at  the  slightest  touch  of  drought,  a 
circumstance  which  occurs  during  most  summers 
at  one  period  or  another.  In  small  gardens  or 
where  space  is  limited,  or,  again,  where  the  soil 
is  not  of  the  best  for  growing  summer  Spinach,  a 
trial  of  the  Perpetual,  or  Spinach  Beet,  is  usually 
sufficient  to  guarantee  it  a  permanent  place  on 
the  vegetable-list  for  future  seasons.  Its  cultiva- 
tion is  identical  with  that  of  the  ordinary  garden 
Beet,  both  as  regards  sowing  during  April  and 
May  and  thinning  and  distancing  the  resultant 
crop.  By  pursuing  the  above  methods  a  good 
crop  of  leaves  may  be  gathered  from  July 
onwards  until  late  in  the  autumn,   when   the 


pulled  until  severe  frosts  cut  down  the  leaves,, 
leaving  only  a  short  tuft  over  the  centre  ;  but 
even  then  it  may  be  forced  as  it  stands,  by  placing 
Seakale  pots,  boxes  or  barrels  over  the  roots 
and  piling  hot-bed  material  around  them  to  a  good 
depth  as  for  Rhubarb,  or,  where  a  Mushroom- 
house,  under  a  greenhouse  stage  or  other  handy 
position  is  available,  the  roots  may  be  lifted  as  re- 
quired, and  blanching  of  the  tops  proceeded  with,, 
as  is  done  in  the  case  of  Seakale.  Midland. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 

An  Interesting  Contribution  from  Messrs. 
Veitoh  of  Exeter. 
Messrs.  Robert  Veitoh  and  Sons  of  Exeter 
send  us  a  most  interesting  collection  of  flowering: 
shrubs  which  at  this  season  are  particularly 
welcome.  Among  them  were  Garrya  elliptica,  a- 
beautiful  shrub  which  is  fairly  well  known  and 


A    GOOD    CROP    OF    MELONS 


plants  may  be  dug  in  for  mauurial  purposes.  To 
gather  early  dishes  during  March,  April  and 
May,  a  sowing  of  seed  during  August  produces  a 
crop  of  plants  that  will  stand  through  the  winter, 
and  tbese  will  be  found  a  valuable  addition  to 
the  vegetable  supply  at  a  season  when  outdoor 
vegetables  are  scarce.  When  properly  prepared 
for  the  table,  by  removing  the  mid  rib  when  the 
leaves  gathered  are  large,  it  will  compare  very 
favourably  with  either  summer  or  winter  Spinach, 
many  people  declaring  they  cannot  detect  the 
difference  between  the  two. 

Seakale  Beet  differs  from  Spinach  Beet  from 
the  fact  that  the  stalks  only,  as  a  rule,  are 
gathered,  dressed  and  served  as  ordinary  Seakale ; 
however,  sometimes  it  is  convenient  also  to  use 
the  leaves  of  this  variety  as  a  substitute  for 
Spinach,  should  there  be  a  failure  elsewhere. 
From  a  variety  such  as  Sutton's  Silver  or 
Seakale  Beet  we  get  splendid  large  ivory-white 
stalks,  which  remain  tender  and  in  a  usable  con- 
dition for  quite  a  considerable  time.  Froui  un 
April  or  May  sowing,  many  good  dishes  can  be 


should  be  extensively  grown.  Many  of  the^ 
beautiful  silky  green  and  carmine  catkins  on 
the  sprays  sent  were  9  inches  long,  and  the 
sight  of  a  good  specimen  covered  with  these  is 
one  to  be  long  remembered.  Lonicera  Stan- 
dishii  is  a  winter-flowering  Honeysuckle  that  is- 
most  welcome  on  account  of  its  delicate 
fragrance.  The  flowers  are  small  and  white, 
and  show  up  well  against  the  light  brown  stems. 
Among  hardy  Heaths  were  Erica  mediterranea 
hybrida,  a  beautiful  pink-flowered  species ;  E. 
m.  alba,  with  white  flowers  ;  E.  australis,  erect 
habit  and  pink  flowers  ;  E.  codonodes,  columnar 
habit  and  large  pure  white  flowers,  very  hand- 
some ;  E.  arborea,  flesh-pink  flowers  with  scarlet 
anthers  ;  and  E  Veitchii,  white  flowers  that  are 
sweetly  scented.  In  addition  to  the  above  a 
splendid  bunch  of  Rose  haws  or  fruits  were 
included,  these  being  large,  solid  and  very 
brightly  coloured  and  gathered  from  the  well- 
knosv-n  Rose  Una,  a  single-flowered  variety  of 
j  buff  colouring.  For  decorative  purposes  at  this 
'  season  these  fruits  are  most  valuable. 


104 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[February  27,  1909. 


QARDENI NG      FOR      "BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 


F^  LOWER  GARDEN.— The  severe  frosts 
of  the  past  few  weeks  have  prevented 
i  planting  being  done  ;  but  as  soon  as 
the  weather  becomes  open,  work  nf 
this  description  should  be  attended 
to  without  delay.  Any  herbaceous 
plants  that  were  not  dealt  with  in  the  autumn 
may  be  lifted,  divided  and  the  best  outside 
poElions  replanted  at  this  season  with  a  good 
prospect  of  success.  Plant  firmly,  and  if  frosts 
are  experienced  immediately  afterwards  it  will 
be  well  to  look  to  the  plants  when  the  ground 
has  thawed,  as  frosts  frequently  lift  or  loosen 
newly-planted  specimens.  Slugs  are  particularly 
fond  of  the  young  shoots  of  Delphiniums  and 
other  succulent  herbaceous  plants,  frequently 
attacking  them  before  they  appear  through  the 
soil  or,  at  least,  as  soon  as  they  can  be  seen, 
hence  steps  must  be  taken  to  check  their  depre- 
dations by  placing  sharp  coal-ashes  round  each 
plant.  St.  Brigid  Anemones  and  Ranunculuses 
may  be  planted  during  the  present  or  next  week. 
It  is  best  to  scoop  out  the  soil  for  a  depth  of 
"2  inches ;  then  place  the  tubers  in  position, 
claws  downwards,  and  cover  with  the  soil 
removed.  This  is  much  better  than  planting 
with  a  trowel  or  dibber.  Six  inches  apart  each 
way  for  the  Anemones  and  9  inches  for  the 
Ranunculuses  is  a  good  distance.  If  the  soil  is 
at  all  heavy  a  good  sprinkling  of  coarse  sand 
may  be  scattered  over  the  tubers  before  replacing 
the  ordinary  soil,  as  this  will  help  them  con- 
siderably. 

Rose  Garden. — Now  is  a  good  time  to  complete 
planting  providing  the  weather  is  open.  Owing 
to  the  frosts  there  is  doubtless  much  of  this  work 
to  be  done.  Plant  firmly  and  stake  at  once  all 
standard  or  half-standard  specimens.  In  the 
case  of  bushes  long  growths  may  be  shortened 
one-third  their  length,  as  this  will  prevent  the 
plants  being  blown  about  badly  by  the  wind  and 
will  do  no  harm  in  the  way  of  inducing  early 
growth.  Where  plants  have  been  well  protected 
from  frost  it  is  a  wise  plan  to  remove  the 
protective  material  from  the  stems,  otherwise 
precocious  growth  will  soon  commence  and  this 
will  be  badly  injured   by  cold  winds   later  on. 


■ 

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■     '  t    : 

XV'     / 

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<S| 

-A  GOOSEBERRY  BUSH  PREVIOUS  TO  THE 
WINTER  PRUNING.  NOTE  THE  WEAK  AND 
D.SBLBSS   GROWTHS  IN   THE   CENTRE. 


The  protective  substances  should,  however,  be 
kept  close  at  hand  so  that  thev  may  be  placed  in 
position  should  a  very  severe  frost  threaten. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames.  — Seed-sowing  will  now 
be  in  full  swing  in  this  department.  Such  be'I- 
ding  plants  as  Asters,  Zinnias,  Verbenas  and 
Stocks  are  best  raised  in  frames,  preferably  on  a 
gentle  hot-bed.  Use  shallow  boxes  or  pans  which 
are  thoroughly  drained  and  employ  finely  sifted 
soil  that  contains  a  large  percentage  of  sand. 
Retain  the  rough  portions  for  placing  over  the 
crocks  in  the  bottoms  of  the  receptacles  before 
putting  in  the  finer  soil.  All  must  be  made 
moderately  firm  and  the  seeds  scattered  evenly 
and  thinly.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  more  lo.'ses 
among  seedlings  occur  through  thick  sowing  than 
from  any  other  cause.  After  the  seedlings  are  up 
they  must  he  kept  near  the  glass  and  given  air. 
otherwise  they  quickly  damp  off,  this  applying 
especially  to  the  Stocks.  A  little  seed  of  the 
Asters  and  Stocks  should  be  retained  for  sowing 
in  the  open  at  the  end  of  April  ;  plants  obtained 
thus  usually  flower  when  the  indoor-raised  speci- 
mens are  over.  Cuttings  of  most  specimen  green- 
house plants  will  now  be  available,  and  these  may 
be  inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil  and  placed  in  a 
propagating  case  or  covered  with  bell-glasses 
until  they  have  rooted. 

Kitchen  Garden. — In  all  open  weather  this 
department  will  be  an  exceedingly  busy  one.  A 
good  sowing  of  early  wrinkled  Peas  may  be 
made.  Carrots,  Onions,  Lettuces  and  Radishes 
may  also  safely  be  put  in,  and  many  growers 
will  already  have  sown  some.  For  Carrots 
choose  one  of  the  early  horn  varieties,  such  as 
Carter's  Early  Market  or  Sutton's  Champion 
Horn,  as  they  form  roots  very  quickly  and  are  of 
excellent  quality.  Tomatoes  sown  under  glass 
early  in  the  month  will  now,  or  shortly,  be  ready 
for  removal  from  the  seed  pans  or  boxes.  A 
good  plan  is  to  prick  them  off  3  inches  apart 
into  boxes  that  are  about  3  inches  deep,  using 
soil  composed  of  loam  two  parts,  leaf-soil  or 
thoroughly  decayed  and  flaky  manure  one  part, 
with  a  good  dash  of  coarse  sand.  Well  drain 
the  boxes  and  make  the  soil  moderately  firm. 
The  plants  must  be  kept  in  a  rather  close 
atmosphere  for  a  few  days  after  this  transplant- 
ing, as  the  small  seedlings  usually  have  none  too 
many  roots.  When  they  have  grown  so  that  the 
leaves  of  separate  plants  well  touch  each  other, 
they  may  be  potted  singly  into  2i-inch  pots. 
Onions  that  were  sown  under  glass  in  January 
will  need  the  same  treatment  now  ;  some  growers 
prefer  to  put  each  little  seedling  into  a  '2|-inch 
pot  instead  of  a  number  in  a  box,  potting  into 
larger  sizes  as  the  pots  become  filled  with  roots. 
Where  plenty  of  room  and  time  are  available, 
this  is  probably  the  best  method  to  adopt.     H. 


PRUNING     AND     INCREASING 
GOOSEBERRIES. 

We  have  now  reached  a  period  when  it  will  be 
necessary  to  deal  with  the  winter  pruning  of 
Gooseberries,  and  unless  this  work  is  taken  in 
hand  in  the  near  future  it  will  be  too  late  to 
think  of  doing  anything  until  another  season. 
There  is  the  probability  that  many  of  the  bushes 
may  have  emitted  growths  from  their  base,  this 
being  brought  about  by  "  eyes  "  left  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  cuttings  which  subsequently  develop 
into  vigorous  shoots.  These  basal  shoots  must 
be  cut  down  without  hesitation  and  overcrowded 
growths  in  the  superstructure  cut  out  or  spurred 
back. 

In  Fig.  1  we  have  an  example  of  a  Gooseberry 
bush   that   has   been   very    much   neglected,   in 


which  the  growths  are  far  too  numerous  and 
the  prospects  of  satisfactory  fruiting  to  some 
extent  rendered  unpromising.  It  will  be  noticed 
how  the  growths  crowd  into  one  another,  so  that 
the  gathering  of  the  fruit  is  almost  an  impossi- 
bility without  subjecting  the  hands  to  a  severe 
scratching.  It  will  also  be  observed  that  the 
main  stem  of  the  tree  stands  out  qnile  by 
itself,  and  some  little  distance  from  the  surface 
soil  the  bush  branches  out  into  nuraernus 
growths,  and  these  should  be  so  pruned  that 
they  stand  out  as  nearly  as  possible  equidistant 
one  from  the  other.  In  some  cases  it  is  an 
advantage  to  slightly  prune  back  the  points  of 
the  shoots,  thus  concentrating  the  energies  of  the 
plant  on  the  fruit-spurs  that  are  retained,  and 
which  invariably  yield  their  supply  of  berries  of 
the  very  best  kind.  A  comparison  between 
Fig.  1  and  Fig.  2  will  show  very  clearly  and 
distinctly  how  the  pruning  should  be  carried  out. 


2. — THE  SAME  BUSH  AFTER  WINTER  PRUNING. 
NOTE  HOW  THE  WEAK  GROWTHS  HAVE 
BEEN   SPUP.RED  BACK. 

Readers  should  remember  that  the  growths 
removed  may  in  most  instances  serve  a  very  use- 
ful purpose  for  perpetuating  the  different  varieties. 
All  too  often  these  are  thrown  away  or  burnt, 
whereas  were  the  better  pieces  among  them  used 
for  cutting  purposes  it  would  be  an  easy  matter, 
within  two  or  three  years,  to  bring  into  being 
quite  an  interesting  number  of  useful  little 
bushes.  Fig.  3  aptly  portrays,  first,  an  ordinary 
cutting  removed  at  the  time  of  winter  pruning, 
secondly,  the  same  growth  prepared  as  a  cutting, 
and  subsequently  after  a  season's  growth  it  is 
represented  with  several  branching  shoots.  Shoots 
some  10  inches  to  12  inches  long  are  better  than 
those  of  smaller  growth.  They  should  be  pre- 
pared with  the  idea  of  preventing  sucker  growths 
developing,  and  to  efiect  this  object  both  thorns 
and  "eyes"  should  be  removed  from  the  lower  part 
of  the  cutting,  leaving  perhaps  three  or  four — 
more  or.  less — "eyes"  and  thorns  at  the  top, 
from  which  the  lateral  growths  will  subsequently 
evolve. 

The  first  illustration  in  Fig.  3  gives  a  fairly 
good  idea  of  the  character  of  growth  a  proper 
cutting  should  represent.  The  figure  in  the 
centre  of  the  illustration  shows  the  same  growth 
properly  prepared  for  insertion  as  a  cutting.  To 
complete  the  making  of  the  cutting  it  should  be 


Februauy  27,  1909.] 


THE     GAliDEK. 


105 


-THIS  ILLUSTKATION,  HEADING  FROM  RIGHT  TO  LEFT,  RBPKE 
SENTS  THK  KIND  OF  SHOOT  SUITABLE  FOR  MAKING  A 
CDTTIKG,  THE  SAME  PREPARED  FOB  PLANTING,  AND  THE 
LATERAL  GROWTHS  MADE  FROM  SUCH  A  CUTTIXG  THE 
FIRST   YEAR. 


cut  across  just  below  the  lower  joint  and  a  small 
portion  of  the  upper  part  of  the  cutting  must 
also  be  removed.  This  and  other  cuttings  should 
he  adjusted  in  position  in  a  shallow  trench,  and 


of  from  8  inches  to  1'2  inches. 
An  interesting  point  about 
the  flowers  is  that  the  stigma 
of  each  is  highly  sensitive. 
Like  the  stigmas  of  many 
other  blooms,  this  is  composed 
of  two  lip-like  structures 
which  normally  are  open,  but 
when  touched  with  a  pointed 
stick  or  pencil  quickly  close. 

Seeds  are  beat  sown  in 
March  or  April,  preparing 
some  clean,  well-drained  pots 
or  pans  for  their  reception. 
The  soil  for  sowing  the  seeds 
in  must  be  of  a  porous 
character,  and  the  top  layer 
finely  sifted.  Scatter  the  seeds 
thinly  and  cover  very  lightly 
with  fine  soil,  water  in  and 
stand  in  a  temperature  rang- 
ing from  60°  to  65°,  covering 
each  pan  or  pot  with  a  sheet 
of  brown  paper  or  a  pane  of 
glass,  which  must  be  removed 
as  soon  as  the  seedlings  appear. 
Prick  out  early ;  then,  when  the 
seedlings  are  about  2  inches 
high,  pot  them  off,  three 
arranged  in  a  triangle  in  a 
6-ii,ch  pjt.  Some  cultivators  grow  one  in  a 
4i-inch  pot,  but  a  better  efiect  is  obtained  if  the 
plants  are  grown  as  advised  above.  For  this 
potting,  soil  composed  of  equal  parts  of  good  loam 


the  soil  made  firm  round  about  them.     Some  sort  ,  and  peat,  with  a  little  sharp  sand  and  thoroughly 
of  order  should  be  observed  in  their  disposal  and    decayed  cow-manure,  answers  admirably,  but  it 


the  varieties  should  be  labelled  to  avoid  eon- 
fusion. 

In  the  course  of  a  season  these  same  cuttings 
should  make  branching  growths,  much  more 
vigorous,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  than  those  repre- 
sented in  the  third  item  in  Fig.  3.  Here,  it  will 
he  observed,  the  upper  portion  of  the  cutting  only 
has  emitted  growths,  the^e  emanating  from ' '  eyes  " 
that  were  retained  when  the  cuttings  were 
inserted. 

In  the  course  of  another  season  thtse  same  young 
plants  when  pruned  back  will  represent  specimens 
somewhat  (similar  to  that  in  Fig.  4.  We  have  in 
this  illustration  endeavoured  to  show  the  method 
by  which  these  young  plants  should  be  winter 
pruned. 


must  not  be  made  extra  firm.  The  plants  should 
be  grown  on  near  the  glass,  and  will  need  the 
support  of  a  few  thin,  twiggy  sticks  early  in  life. 
In  addition  to  T.  Fournieri  there  are  several 
others  worth  growing,  flava,  asiatica  and  con- 
color  (rubens)  being  the  best.  The  first-named, 
which  has  yellow  and  black  flowers  and  is  pen- 
dulous, is  an  excellent  subject  for  a  basket. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Flowering   Trees   on  Lawxs. — In  spring  and 

thi-  early  part  of  the  summer,  flowering  shrubs 

Note  how  they  have  been  cut  back  to  1  and  trees  look  very  beautiful  in  the  garden  and 

from   which  point  we  may  reasonably    especially  on  the   lawn.      Both  the  double  and 


expect  vigorous  growths  to  develop  which  in 
the  course  of  a  season's  growth  will  form  the 
foundation  of  a  really  excellent  branching  bush. 
It  may  be  well  just  to  point  out  here  that  in 
pruning  the  young  plants  in  their  early  history, 
in  fact  at  all  times,  pendulous  varieties  need 
the  most  care  when  winter  pruning  is  being  done. 
Prune  the  growths  to  upper  buds  so  that  the 
resulting  growths  will  have  an  upward  tendency. 
Were  these  same  pendulous  growths  cut  just 
lieyond  the  lower  buds,  this  would  have  the 
effect  of  developing  growths  of  an  even  more 
pendulous  character  than  the  plants  then 
rcprrseiiteil.  D.  B.  C. 


AN    EASILY    GROWN    GREENHOUSE 
ANNUAL. 
(Touresia  Foukkieri. ) 
Considering  how  easily  this  plant  can  be  raised 
from  seeds  and  how  freely  it  gives  us  its  flowers 
in  late  summer  and  autumn,  it  is  most  remark- 
able that  it  is  so  seldom  grown  in  greenhouses, 
especially   when    we    see    many   other    inferior 
subjects  taken  so  much  care  of.      Providing  the 
few  details  given  here  are  carried  out,  those  who 


single  flowered  Hawthorn  are  charming,  the  pink 
and  white  flowers,  with  their  delicious  fragrance, 
being  borne  in  smill  clusters,  and  forming  long 
sprays  nestling  among  the  tender  green  leaves. 
These  may  be  grown  as  bushes  or  trees,  pyramid 
shape,  or  as  standards  ;  and,  moreover,  they 
neither  make  gross  growth  nor  take  up  a  lot  of 
np.ice,  so  that  they  are  suitable  for  small  lawns. 
Pi>r  larger  lawns  the  double  white  and  the  scarlet 
Chtslnutare  very  effective  subjects.  It'  the  lawn 
be  large  enough,  a  group  of  three  trees  in  one 
corner  would  look  very  imposing.  The  doubl"- 
fl  iwerlng  Cherry,  Philadelphus  (Mock  Orange), 
Weigelas,  Lilacs,  Viburnum  Opulus  (GueldT 
Rose),  flowering  Currant  and  Py  rus  Mains  baccata 
(Siberian  Crab)  are  all  suitable,  and  will  make 
good  growth  in  an  ordinary  soil.  In  a  rough 
corner — that  is,  one  which  is  cold  and  bleak  and 
in  which  the  more  tender  kinds  of  shrubs  and 
trees  will  not  thrive — plant  the  green  and  the 
variegated  Elder.  These  will  grow  in  poor, 
shallow  soils  and  both  bloom  and  bear  berries. 
All  the  different  shrubs  and  trees  named  here 
may  be  planted  now  ;  but  it  would  not  be  wise 
to  delay  the  work  if  the  weather  is  open.  Put 
stakes  to  the  standards,  give  water  to  all  imme- 
diately the  planting  is  finished  and  apply  a  top- 


own  a  greenhouse  worthy  of  the  name  can  raise  ,  _  ^  „ 

a  good  batch  of  plants  that  will  be  exceedingly  j  dressing  of   half-rotted  manure  and   rich   loam. 

beautiful    and    attractive    during     the   autumn  i  As  the  soil  will  get  dry  more  quickly  now  than 


months.  The  flowers  somewhat  resemble  those 
of  the  Antirrhinum  in  shape,  but  their  colour  is 
not  at  all  easily  described,  this  being  a  mixture 
of  blue,  black,  purple  and  yellow.  The  plants 
are  semi-erect  in  habit  and  u-uallj'  attain  a  height 


the    autumn,    water   must  be  given   in   due 
course. 

Sowing  Seeds  of  Annuals. — The  seeds  of 
half-hardy  annuals  should  be  sown  in  pans,  pots 
or  boxes  and  placed  in  frames,  so  that  the  seed- 


lings will  have  a  good  chance  to  grow.  Owners 
of  town  gardens  ought  not  to  depend  too  much 
upon  border-sown  seeds.  The  hardy  annuals  may 
be  raised  in  the  open  border  later  in  the  spring, 
when  the  soil  is  warmer  ;  but  very  earlj'  sowing 
of  these  is  not  advisable,  and  the  tender  ones 
must  not  be  put  in  cold  soil.  The  following 
kinds  may  now  be  raised,  namely :  Asters, 
Stocks  (Ten-week),  Zinnias,  Phlox  Drummondii, 
Cornflower,  Calliopsis  Drummondii,  Clarkias, 
yellow  Sultan,  Sweet  Peas  (in  pots),  Tropao- 
lums,  Linaria  reticulata.  Chrysanthemums, 
Candytuft,  Linums,  Godetias,  Mallows,  CoUin- 
sia,  French  and  African  Marigolds  and  Tagetes 
signata  pumila.  The  last-named  is  a  cipital 
plant  for  forming  a  low  edging  to  a  border  of  tall- 
growing  plants,  and  also  looks  well  in  masses. 
Sow  the  seeds  thinly  ;  do  not  be  tempted  to 
put  seeds  of  each  kind  in  so  thickly  that  the 
seedlings  will  smother  each  other.  It  would  be 
much  wiser  to  reserve  a  few  of  the  seeds  for  a 
future  sowing  in  case  of  mishap  to  those  first 
sown.  The  soil  used  must  be  moderately  moist, 
then  watering  will  not  be  necessary  for  some 
time.  Keep  the  frame  darkened  until  the  seed- 
lings begin  to  appear,  then  gradually  admit  full 
light  to  them ;  also  guard  against  excessive 
atmospheric  moisture.  If  these  rules  be 
observed  the  cultivator  will  meet  with  success. 

Planting  Gladioli.  — The  bulbs  of  these  may 
now  be  planted  in  light  soils.  Where  heavy, 
clayey  loam  obtains  delay  the  planting  lor  a 
fortnight  or  so.  Gandavensis,  splendens,  flori- 
bundus  and  psittacinus  types  must  be  put  in 
at  once  in  the  light  loams.  Even  then  it  will 
be  advisable  to  use  a  mixture  of  leaf-soil  and 
sand  for  scattering  around  the  bulbs  before  the 
original  soil  is  replaced  on  them.  The  bulbs 
may  be  put  in  6  inches  deep  in  lines  or  in 
clumps.  These  are  beautiful  flowers  for  an  early 
autumn  display,  and  well  suited  for  growing  in 
clumps  in  herbaceous  borders.  After  the 
planting  is  done,  put  in  labels  to  indicate  the 
positions  of  the  bulbs.  In  broad  borders  each 
clump  may  contain  a  dozen  bulbs,  in  medium- 
sized  borders  from  six  to  nine  bulbs  would  m  ike 
a  suitable  clump,  and  in  ver}'  narrow  border.s 
three  bulbs  are  sufficient.  A  space  of  about 
9  inches  ought  to  be  allowed  between  the  bulbs 
in  the  clumps.  Avo.v. 


4. — method  of  pruning  a  young  GOOStBERIlY 
BUSH  to  ensure  THE  FORMATION'  OF  A 
SHAPELY    SPECIMEN. 


106 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[February  27,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOE    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit    I'epartment. 

VINES  that  are  growing  freely  should 
during  favourable  weather  have  a 
little  fresh  air  admitted  :  but  do  not 
raise  the  ventilators  too  high  at  one 
time  at  this  season.  When  the  out- 
side atmosphere  is  chilly,  1  inch  or 
"2  inches  is  ijuite  sufficient.  Keep  the  night 
temperature  from  60°  to  65",  according  to  the 
weather,  a  little  less  in  preference  to  very  hard 
firing.  Syringe  and  damp  all  parts  of  the  floors 
and  walls  more  freely  as  the  sun  inoreaces  in 
power,  and  avoid  a  dr3',  parching  atmosphere. 

Peaches. — As  soon  as  the  new  growth  is  from 
1  inch  to  2  inches  long,  remove  some  of  the 
shoots  which  will  not  be  required  for  extension 
or  for  fruiting  next  year ;  this  disbudding  is 
work  of  the  utmost  importance,  but  should  never 
be  too  severely  practised  at  one  time.  Aim  to 
retain  those  shoots  necessary  for  the  formation 
of  a  good-shaped  tree,  and  keep  a  good  supply 
of  fruiting  wood  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of 
the  trellises,  gradually  reducing  the  rest  and 
always  retaining  the  best-placed  shoots  at  the 
basB  and  on  the  upper  side  when  possible. 
Leaders,  when  they  have  reached  their  limit, 
ni:i}-  be  stopped.  A  slight  syringing  overhead 
daily,  except  when  the  trees  are  in  flower,  should 
be  practised,  allowing  time  for  the  tips  of  the 
leaves  to  get  fairly  dry  by  night.  A  temperature 
of  55°  will  be  found  suitable  at  night  for  some 
time,  or  a  little  higher  in  mild  weather,  and  60° 
by  day,  this  rising  with  sun-heat.  Ventilate 
vtry  carefully  when  the  weather  is  chilly. 

Plant  Houses 

Gardenias. — Young  plants  raised  from  cuttings 
inserted  last  autumn  will  now  require  repotting 
Use  clean,  dry,  well-drained  pocs  and  let  the 
soil  consist  of  fibrous  peat  and  sandy  loam  with 
plenty  of  grit,  and  use  it  when  at  the  same 
temperature  as  the  house  in  which  the  young 
plants  have  been  growing.  Keep  the  plants  in  a 
stove  temperature  and  syringe  lightly  twice  daily 
during  fine  weather.  To  grow  nice  stuidy  plants, 
it  will  be  advisable  to  stop  the  young  shoots 
about  twice  during  the  early  stages  of  growth. 
More  cuttings  of  the  young  wood,  with  a  heel  if 
possible,  may  be  rooted,  and  if  given  good  atten- 
tion should  grow  into  nice  uselul  plants  by  the 
end  of  the  season. 

Eupatorium  odoratum.  —  This  useful  autumn 
and  winter  flowering  plant  should  he  extensively 
grown  where  large  quantities  of  flowers  are  in 
reijuest.  Insert  the  cuttings  at  once,  and  when 
rooted  pot  them  singly  in  small  pots,  pinch  out 
the  leaders  to  encourage  side  growths  and  grow 
them  on  for  a  time  in  a  moderately  warm  tem- 
perature, when  later  on,  after  the  plants  have 
been  suitably  hardened,  they  may  be  planted 
outside,  to  be  lifted  and  transferred  to  pots 
from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  September. 
Salvias,  Solanums  and  many  other  kinds  of 
plants  may  be  treated  in  the  same   way. 

Coleus  thyraoide^i^. — As  these  plants  go  out 
of  bloom,  let  them  be  somewhat  rested  in  an 
intermediate  temperature  for  some  time.  If 
cuttings  are  inserted  in  April,  they  should  by 
the  end  of  the  season  have  made  good  plants. 
Nothing  is  gained  by  very  early  propagation. 

Justicia  earnea. — Insert  cuttings  when  pro- 
curable singly  in  small  pots,  in  sandy  soil  to  be 
grown  on.     It  is  a  very  useful  plant  for  rooms,  ka. 

Tuberoses. — A  few  of  these  should  be  potted 
at  intervals  to  maintain  a  lengthy  supply  of 
flowers.  If  the  bulbs  are  strong,  one  planted  in 
a  r)-inoh  pot  will  suffice.  Let  the  soil  be  that  of 
fibrous    loam,    old     dried    cow-manure,    leaf-soil 


and  grit.  Remove  any  oft'sets  growing  round 
the  bulbs  previous  to  potting.  Use  good  drainage 
and  pot  moderately  firm.  Much  water  will  not 
be  rp(iuirtd  for  some  time.  The  pots  can  be 
placed  in  a  newly  started  vinery  or  plunged 
beneath  a  stage  free  from  drip  in  the  greenhouse 
till  they  have  started  into  growth.  The  foliage 
must  be  carefully  watched  and  kept  free  from 
red  spider. 

Vallota  purpurea. — Plants  may  be  grown  either 
in  small  pots  singly,  larger  pots  with  five  or  more 
bulbs,  or  planted  out  in  clumps  in  the  greenhouse 
beds.  We  have  several  olumps  planted  out 
which  have  not  been  disturbed  tor  several  years, 
and  these  produce  a  large  quantity  of  flowers 
annually.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  finfield  ) 

Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bnrnet. 


FOR 


NORTH 


THE  NORTH  AND 

MIDLANDS 
Hardy  Fruit  Department 

Planting  Trees  and  Bushes. — If  from  any 
cause  planting  was  not  completed  in  the  closing 
months  of  the  past  year,  it  may  now  be  done  with 
every  prospect  of  equally  successful  results. 
Avoid  a  time  when  the  soil  is  adhesive  through 
wet  or  the  after  effects  of  frost.  In  preparing 
the  stations  make  a  cavity  at  least  30  inches  in 
diameter  and  12  inches  deep  in  the  well-workeil 
surface  soil.  Whether  the  underlying  stratum 
should  be  similarly  treated  must  be  left  to  the 
discretion  of  the  operator,  who  alone  can  best 
judge  its  character;  at  any  rate,  it  should  be 
deeply  broken  up  and,  if  found  very  retentive, 
lime  rubble  or  burnt  garden  refuse  may 
be  freely  incorporated  with  it  as  this  will 
benefit  both  trees  and  soil.  Upon  this 
loosened  surface  place  good  soil  (fresh  loam 
if  obtainable),  and  make  all  firm,  with  a 
slightly  raised  centre  upon  wliich  to  place  the 
base  of  the  tree,  with  the  roots  gently  sloping 
all  around.  Spread  out  the  more  fibrous  roots 
and  work  a  little  specially  prepared  compost 
among  them,  after  which  the  first-removed  soil 
may  be  replaced,  so  that  the  roots  are  covered  to  a 
depth  of  not  less 
than .3 inches;  after- 
wards secure  each 
tree  to  a  stake  oi- 
other  support  to 
prevent  it  being 
damaged  by  the 
action  of  wind. 

Raspberries.  — 
These  are  usually 
the  last  fruits  to 
undergo  the  opera- 
tion ot  pruning,  and 
the  mode  ot  proce- 
dure varies  accord- 
ing to  the  method  of 
training  adopted.  If 
planted  in  lines  and 
the  canes  secured 
to  supports  running 
parallel  thereto,  the 
canes  may  be  re- 
duced in  number?, 
so  that  when  secured 
spaces  of  6  inches 
or  S  inches  remain 
between  them.  If 
strong  and  straight 
the  canes  may  be 
reduced  in  length  to 

.)  feet  or  6  feet  from  the  ground,  while  any  that 
show  signs  of  extreme  weakness  are  best  severed 
at  the  same  level,  so  that  good  growths  may 
ensue  for  another  year.  Many  other  systems  of 
training  are  favoured,  such  as  putting  one  or 
more  stakes  to  a  plant  and  securing  the  canes 
thereto,  or  by  bringing  the  tops  of  one  row  to 
meet  those  of  another  and  securing  them  so  that 
an  arch  is  formed  ;  but  the  principle  throughout 


is    to    avoid    overcrowding    and    make     secure 
against  storms  of  wind. 

Propayntion  of  Bush  Fruits.  —  Prunings  of 
Gooseberries  and  Currants  selected  for  cuttings 
may  be  trimmed  and  inserted  in  rows  upon  a 
north  border  ;  12  inches  by  6  inches  apart  is 
ample,  and  gives  spiee  tor  cleaning  the  ground 
in  due  course.  Cuttings  ot  Gooseberries  should 
be  as  straight  as  possible  and  about  18  inches  in 
length.  In  preparing,  all  the  buds  except  four 
at  the  point  should  be  rubbed  off.  White  and 
Red  Currants  need  very  similar  treatment,  but 
more  buds  may  with  advantage  be  left.  Black 
Currants,  on  the  other  hand,  may  be  inserted 
without  any  manipulation  except  a  clean  cut  at 
thebi=e,  as  sucker  growths  from  \:elow  gnmnd 
witli  these  are  helpful  in  maintaining  the  vigour 
and  symmetry  of  the  plants. 

Stove  and  Greenhouse  Plants. 

PoUinrj. — Presuming  that  all  foliage  plants 
have  before  this  been  thoroughly  cleared  of  insect 
pests  and  the  possible  accumulations,  where  near 
towns,  of  soot  and  dirt  arising  from  the  recent 
frost  and  fog,  potting  may  be  at  once  proceeded 
with,  commencing  with  such  plants  as  show 
signs  of  increasing  vitality,  and  so  continue 
until  all  are  completed. 

Propaijation  of  Pot  Plants  must  ot  necessity 
have  due  consideration  at  this  season  and  the 
wastage  caused  by  their  employment  as  decora- 
tive subjects  under  conditions  the  reverse  to 
their  well-being  made  good.  Cattings  of  most 
kinds  ciu  lie  accommodated  in  a  small  frame  or 
propagating  case  proper,  but  others,  such  as  the 
lieads  ot  Crotons  and  Dracfenas,  that  have  lost 
their  lower  leaves  and,  consequently,  their 
attractiveness,  may  be  too  bulky  tor  this  course. 
.Iames  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

OaVoway  House,  Oarlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


GROWING     SWEET     PEAS     FOR 
SEED. 

Our  readers  will  be  fairly  conversant  with 
illustrations  of  Sweet  Peas  as  grown  for  exhibi- 
tion or  garden  decorative  purposes  ;  but  it  may 


sweet    peas    at    STOURBRIDGE. 


be  ot  interest  to  note  on  what  an  extensive  scile 
they  are  grown  for  seed  purposes  by  our  leading 
seedsmen.  The  accompanying  illustration  depicts 
a  portion  of  Messrs.  Webb  and  Son's  iri.il 
grounds  at  Kinver,  near  Stourbridge,  a  most 
delightful  and  healthy  spot.  As  will  be  seen,  the 
plants  are  remarkably  floriferous,  and  demon- 
strate in  an  unmistakable  manner  the  good 
culture  given  them  by  Messrs.  Webb. 


February  27,  1909.1 


THE     GARDEN. 


107 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Answeps.— Tft^  Editor  intendti 
to  make  The  Garden  Jielpful  to  all  readers  who  desirs 
assista/nce^  no  matter  what  the  bratich  of  gardening  may 
i>et  and  Tffith  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  Anstoers  to  Correspondents"  colum.n.  All  eommunica- 
tioTis  sk&ftld  be  clearly  and  coTidsely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  aiid  addressed  to  the  BDITOR  of  IHB 
Garden,  iO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W,C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publibhbf. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
l-aper.  When  m^yre  th^n  one  query  is  sent,  ea^h  should 
he  on  a  nepa/rate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Numtoep  of  varieties  of  Sweet 
Peas  for  an  exhibit  {H.  O.  M.  P.)  — 

So  much  depends  upon  local  oireumatanoea  that 
it  is  most  difficult  for  us  to  give  a  definite  reply 
to  your  query.  We  presume  that  the  committee, 
in  framing  their  schedule,  try  to  so  arrange  it 
that  the  greatest  number  of  those  eligible  shall 
be  able  to  exhibit.  In  any  case  wp  think  it 
would  be  wise  another  year  to  have  a  class  for 
nine  varieties  as  an  experiment,  and  if  this 
answered  well  it  might,  the  following  year,  be 
augmented  by  a  class  for  twelve  varieties.  Of 
course,  finance  has  to  be  considered,  and  possibly 
the  money  for  prizes  may  not  be  forthcoming. 
If  all  conditions  are  suitable,  we  think  a  collec- 
tion of  twelve  varieties  would  be  the  best ;  but  at 
the  same  time  we  should  certainly  retain  the 
class  for  six  sorts.  We  thank  you  for  your  kind 
remarks. 

Flowers  for    July    and    Augpust 

{E.  8.  L.). — You  might  sow  such  plants  as 
Godetias,  *Stooks,  *A8ters,  Nasturtiums,  Mari- 
golds, Mignonette,  Chrysanthemum  coronarium, 
C.  carinatum  in  variety,  C.  Morning  Star,  C. 
Evening  Star,  Alyssum  maritimum,  *Nemesias, 
Dianthus,  Poppies  of  many  kinds  and  others. 
Those  with  an  asterisk  before  them  require  to  be 
raised  in  slight  heat ;  the  others  could  be  sown 
in  the  open  and  in  succession  if  you  desired  to 
prolong  the  display.  The  Begonias  may  certainly 
be  planted  out  as  yoii  suggest,  but  it  is  not  par- 
ticularly good  practice.  A  better  way  would  be 
to  arrange  them  in  shallow  boxes  with  a  little 
soil,  and  without  glass  they  would  start  quite 
well,  but  must  not  be  exposed  to  frost.  Cannas 
and  Dahlias  may  be  early  planted  in  the  same 
way,  but  the  crowns  must  be  well  protected.  If 
not  too  deeply  buried,  the  plants  will  not  be 
much  later  in  coming  into  bloom.  See  that  the 
Dahlias  do  not  present  a  crowded  thicket  of 
shoots. 

Treatment  of  Lilium  auratum 
from  Japan  (R.  M.  Dillwyn). — Place  the 
bulbs  in  shallow  boxes  in  a  cool  cellar  as 
soon  as  they  are  unpacked  and  well  examined. 
A  little  airing  in  this  way  will  be  helpful  to  the 
bulbs  after  so  long  a  period  of  close  confinement. 
A  few  days  later  the  bulbs  may  be  planted  in 
comparatively  dry  soil,  arranging  them  about 
6  inches  deep  and  freely  covering  them  above 
and  below  with  sand.  There  is  nothing  to  be 
gained  by  waiting,  as  in  the  natural  order  of 
things  the  bulbs  should  now  be  rooting  freely. 
There  is  no  effectual  way  of  curing  bulbs  that 
are  actually  diseased  when  received,  and  once 
the  base  is  affected  the  entire  central  core  or 
growth-crown  of  the  plant  will  be  affected  also. 
The  disease  or  rot  is  set  up  by  the  terrible 
mutilation  of  roots  prior  to  the  bulbs  being  pre- 
pared for  transit  in  Japan,  and  young  and  old 
roots  are  cleared  away  to  permit  of  the  bulbs  being 
packed  in  tempered  clay.  Where  the  bulb- 
scales  are  merely  tipped  by  disease,  a  little 
cleaning   and  exposure  will  suffice ;  but  if  the 


base  of  the  bulb  is  affected,  the  heart  of  the  bulb 
has  long  since  been  permeated  by  the  disease 
and  the  plant  irretrievably  lost. 

Annuals  fop  north  border  (B.  I).  North).— 
You  might  plant  anyof  the  annual  Chrysaiithemumg,  such 
as  C.  carinatum  anci  C.  coronarium,  of  which  there  are 
many  beautiful  varieties,  white,  scarlet,  crimsou-white  and 
yellow  in  the  same  flower,  and  others  having  quite  double 
flowers.  The  Stocks,  Asters  and  Godetias  would  also  be 
excellt-nt  and  give  a  prolonged  season  of  ilowers.  For 
the  climbing  plants  you  cannot  do  better  than  try  the 
Canary  Creeper  (Tropteolum  canariense)  and  Convolvulus 
major  (Tpomrea  purpurea).  The  first-named  may  be  sown 
from  Maich  to  May  in  the  open  ground,  but  the  latter 
should  be  sown  in  April  in  pots  if  it  is  desired  to  flower  it 
early,  and  again  in  May  in  the  open  ground  to  keep  up  a 
good  succession  of  flowers. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 
Plants     for    wall    facing    west 

(W.  if.  Philpot). — If  you  care  to  plant  fruit 
trees  against  your  wall.  Plums,  Pears  or  Cherries 
in  variety  will  thrive  in  your  soil.  Should  you, 
however,  prefer  flowering  shrubs,  you  will 
find  the  following  suitable.  Evergreens  : 
Ceanothus  veitchianus,  C.  thyrsiflorus,  Crataegus 
Pyraoantha,  Escallonia  macrantha,  Magnolia 
grandiflora,  Cotoneaster  microphylla  and  Garrya 
elliptica.  Among  suitable  deciduous  shrubs  the 
following  are  all  ornamental :  Prunus  triloba 
fl. -pi. ,  Hydrangea  petiolaris,  Jasminum  nudi- 
florum.  Clematis  montana  and  the  variety 
rubens,  Chimonanthus  fragrans  grandiflorus  and 
Wistaria  ohinensis.  Roses,  of  course,  can  be 
used,  and  such  varieties  as  Gloire  de  Dijon,  W. 
A.  Richardson,  Alberic  Barbier  and  Dorothy 
Perkins  should  be  included.  A  good  mixed 
selection  of  plants  would  be :  Roses — W.  A. 
Richardson  and  Dorothy  Perkins  ;  evergreens — 
Ceanothus  veitchianus,  Escallonia  macrantha, 
Cotoneaster  microphylla  and  Crataegus  Pyra- 
oantha;  deciduous  —  Prunus  triloba  fl. -pi. , 
.lasminum  nudiflorum.  Clematis  montana  and 
Hydrangea  petiolaris. 

Pruning  back  a  Bepbepis  (N.  W ).— When  the 
severe  frosts  are  over  you  may  safely  cut  back  your 
Barberry :  but  in  this  case  you  must  be  content  to  forego 
a  crop  of  flowers  this  season,  as  if  cut  back  now  yuu 
cannot  expect  it  to  bloom  this  year.  In  a  general  way  a 
Barberry  should  be  pruned,  when  necessary,  immediately 
after  flowering,  in  which  case  its  blooming  another  year 
will  be  little  interfered  with,  unless  it  is  pruned  back  very 
hard.  You  give  us  no  details  of  the  treatment  to  which 
your  Hyacinths  have  been  subjected,  hence  it  is  difficult 
to  say  the  cause  of  the  trouble.  If  the  bulbs  when  potted 
were  plunged  in  ashes,  they  may  have  been  allowed  to 
remain  too  long  in  the  plunging  material,  or  it  was, 
perhaps,  kept  too  moist.  If  they  were  stood  out  of  doors 
without  plunging,  they  may  have  been  affected  by  the  frust 
before  taking  Ihera  into  the  greenhouse.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  the  iJulbs  were  taken  into  the  greenhouse  directly 
after  potting,  flower-stems  would  be  pushed  up  before 
the  roots  were  sufficiently  advanced  to  support  them, 
and  this  would  be  likely  to  cause  the  flowers  to  decay. 
^Vate^  spilled  in  the  interior  of  the  crown  when  the  buds 
were  still  young  might  also  cause  the  trouble. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Cut  flowers   for  winter  {Novice).— 

With  one  row  of  pipes  in  the  house  you  will  not 
be  able  to  do  much  in  the  way  of  forcing,  and 
unless  you  have  facilities  for  disposing  of  the 
crops  locally,  you  had  better  not  embrace  too 
many  kinds.  Shrubby  subjects,  such  as  Azalea 
mollis.  Lilacs,  Magnolias,  Staphylea  oolchica, 
Prunus  triloba  and  Deutzia  gracilis  are  all 
valuable  for  early  work  and  for  cutting  ;  but, 
as  you  probably  know,  do  not  stand  well  when 
cut  if  given  a  long  journey.  These  would  be 
best  grown  under  glass.  Moderate  supplies  of 
Orange  blossoms  are  always  in  demand.  The 
best  way  to  force  the  two  first-named  would  be 
to  obtain  retarded  plants  next  autumn.  We  do 
not  know  of  anything  in  the  way  of  shrubs  that 
would  bloom  out  of  doors  in  midwinter  and 
prove  of  value  for  market  at  the  same  time. 
Were  we  in  your  locality,  we  would  grow  such 
Roses  as  Liberty  and  Richmond  to  the  exclusion 
of  all  other  plants  named  for  early  work,  securing 
good  plants  now  and  growing  them  on.  Lily  of 
the  Valley,  Narcissus  in  many  varieties  and 
Lilium  longiflojum  are  also  good  for  early  work. 


and  some  of  these  in  conjunction  with  the  Roses 
should  prove  of  service  to  you. 

Greenhouse  plant  to  flower  as 

soon  as  possible  (0.  Barter).— An  ex- 
ceedingly difficult  question  to  grasp,  as  you  ask 
us  to  recommend  one  greenhouse  flowering  plant, 
a  fast  grower  and  to  bloom  as  soon  as  possible. 
Hyacinths  in  pots  may  now  be  bought  that  will 
flower  in  a  very  short  time,  and  other  things  as 
well.  If  you  wish  to  grow  the  plants  in  your 
house,  such  subjects  as  Zonal  Pelargoniums, 
Fuchsias  and  tuberous  Begonias  can  be  recom- 
mended. While  we  are  always  anxious  to  oblige 
our  correspondents,  the  question  itself  is,  from 
lack  of  information,  often  a  puzzle  to  us.  Should 
you  require  further  advice  and  will  state  your 
requirements  more  definitely,  we  shall  be  pleased 
to  help  you. 

How  to  grow  standard  Hello- 
tropes  {L.  E.  H.). — In  order  to  obtain 
standard  plants  of  Heliotrope,  any  varieties 
except  the  particularly  dwarf  ones  may  be 
chosen.  It  is  useless  to  commence  with  bushy 
plants  such  as  are  used  for  bedding  purposes,  as 
they  can  never  be  made  into  satisfactory 
standards.  Take  the  cuttings  in  early  spring 
and  root  them  in  a  close  propagating  case  in  a 
moderately  warm  structure.  When  rooted,  they 
must  be  for  a  few  days  inured  to  the  atmosphere 
of  the  house  in  which  they  are  to  be  grown. 
After  this  they  should  be  potted  singly  into 
small  pots  in  a  compost  made  up  of  loam,  leaf- 
mould  and  sand.  When  established,  which  will 
in  the  spring  take  little  more  than  a  week,  the 
most  vigorous  ones  should  be  selected  for  grow- 
ing into  standards.  These  must  not  have  their 
tops  pinched  out,  but  need  to  be  supported  by  a 
single  stick  in  order  to  encourage  them  to  grow 
upwards  as  quickly  as  possible.  They  will  soon 
need  repotting  into  o-ineh  pots,  and  when  these 
are  full  of  roots  larger  ones  may  be  employed. 
As  the  plants  grow,  all  side  shoots  must  be 
removed  directly  they  make  their  appearance. 
It  is  very  probable  that  in  time  a  flower  cluster 
will  be  formed  at  the  top  ;  if  so,  this  must  be  at 
once  pinched  out,  which  treatment  will  cause  a 
shoot  to  push  immediately  below  the  flower 
cluster.  As  soon  as  it  is  sufficiently  advanced 
this  must  be  tied  erect,  in  order  to  form  the 
upright  stem.  When  this  last  has  attained  the 
height  required,  it  may  be  allowed  to  brand  i 
and  thus  form  the  head. 

Azaleas  unhealthy  (Devonia).—T\i& 
few  remaining  leaves  on  the  enclosed  sprays  of 
Azilea  are  very  badly  infested  with  thrips.  These 
pests  are  sufficient  to  account  for  many  of  the 
leaves  dropping,  and  what  is  more,  their  presence 
in  such  numbers  would  suggest  that  not  only  has 
the  atmosphere  of  the  house  been  kept  too  dry, 
but  at  times  the  roots  also.  The  only  chance  to 
get  your  Azaleas  out  of  the  moribund  state  into 
which  they  have  fallen  is  to  repot  them  and  en- 
courage the  formation  of  new  roots.  The  soil 
for  the  purpose  should  be  good  fibrous  peat  with 
a  liberal  admixture  of  rough  silver  sand.  In  re- 
potting, the  plant  must  be  turned  out  of  its  present 
pot  and  as  much  of  the  old  soil  as  possible 
removed.  This  is  best  done  with  a  pointed  stick, 
care  being  taken  not  to  break  more  of  the  delicate 
hair-like  roots  than  is  necessary.  If  the  roots 
are  in  a  poor  state,  which  is  very  probable,  it 
may  be  found  that  with  the  removal  of  the  old 
soil  the  ball  of  earth  is  considerably  reduced  in 
size,  and  consequently  the  plant  or  plants  may 
with  advantage  be  put  into  a  pot  smaller  than 
before.  The  pots  must  be  quite  clean,  effectually 
drained,  and  large  enough  to  allow  a  space  of 
little  more  than  half  an  inch  between  the  ball  of 
earth  and  the  side  of  the  pot.  The  new  soil  must 
be  worked  down  firmly  and  regularly,  otherwise 
if  left  loose  in  any  place  the  water  will  drain 
through  and  leave  the  old  ball  of  earth  dry. 
After  potting,  these  old  Azaleas  should  be  placed 
in  a  structure  kept  closer  and  warmer  than  an 
ordinary  greenhouse,  and  be  frequently  syringed 


108 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[February  27,  1909. 


overhead.  This  will  encourage  renewed  activity 
at  the  roots  and  the  production  of  new  shoots 
and  leaves.  The  structure  in  which  the  plants 
are  placed  must  be  shaded  from  the  sun's  rays. 

Value  of  Cypplpedlum  Insi^rne  (Dnhimis).— 
The  value  of  a  plant  depends  to  a  great  extent  upon  its 
condition,  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  set  a  value  upon  any 
Orchid  without  seeing  it.  If  the  Cypripedium  insigne  is  in 
good  condition  it  will  be  worth  half-a-guinea,  and  the 
Vanda  tricolor,  if  in  the  same  state,  one  guinea. 


ROSE    GaKDEN. 
APtiflcial  manure  for  Roses  (R. 

E.  T.). — You  will  find  some  form  of  guano  an 
excellent  stimulant  to  apply  to  your  Roses  in 
conjunction  with  cow-manure.  There  are  several 
good  sorts  on  the  market,  and  we  would  refer 
you  to  our  advertising  columns  for  them.  Soot 
is  very  good,  so  also  is  bone-meal,  but  this  latter 
should  be  applied  at  once.  House  slops  saved  in 
a  tank  and  applied,  well  diluted,  during  Hay  and 
.June  would  be  also  an  excellent  stimulant. 

Tpansplantlngr  Rose  cuttings 

{A.  B.  L.). — If  possible,  lift  ofif  the  frame  you  are 
wanting  and  leave  the  cuttings  where  they  are. 
Should  this  not  be  practicable,  lift  them  very 
carefully,  with  the  soil  adhering  if  possible,  and 
place  them  in  a  sheltered  part  of  the  garden  until 
April,  when  you  can  plant  them  into  their  final 
positions  should  they  be  rooted.  It  is  well  to 
prepare  a  small  trench  prior  to  lifting  the 
cuttings ;  then  you  can  place  them,  with  soil 
attached,  into  this  trench  and  cover  over  the 
soil  with  that  taken  out  of  the  trench.  If  the 
soil  will  not  adhere,  just  lay  the  cuttings  into 
some  gritty  soil  until  the  time  named.  Should 
you  have  room  for  a  few  3-ineh  pots  on  your 
hot-bed,  you  could  pot  up  some  of  the  cuttings 
and  place  them  on  the  hot-bed.  This  would 
assist  them  to  root  better  than  any  other  treat- 
ment, providing  they  are  in  a  healthy  condition 
when  potted.  If  the  cuttings  are  only  callused 
over  at  the  base,  they  will  root  by  the  aid  of  the 
warmth  from  the  hot-bed.  By  callused  we  mean 
the  formation  of  white  matter  at  the  base  of  the 
cutting  from  which  eventually  the  roots  emerge. 

Roses  In  small  tubs  (E.  E.  H.).~- 

Considering  that  the  tubs  will  be  exposed  to  the 
sun  very  much,  we  are  afraid  you  will  find  the 
leaf-soil  and  sweepings  much  too  porous  for  the 
welfare  of  the  plants.  They  will  need  shielding 
from  the  burning  rays  by  some  means,  and  you 
must  water  them  freely  from  May  onwards.  It 
would  have  been  better  if  you  had  added  some 
good  holding  loam  with  the  other  mixture  ;  but 
you  cannot  do  this  now.  The  mistake  can  be 
rectified  in  the  autumn.  You  will  need  to  prune 
the  plants  a  little  during  the  month  of  March. 
Cut  them  back  to  within  12  inches  to  IS  inches 
of  the  top  of  the  tub.  You  must  be  careful 
how  you  stimulate  the  plants  until  they  have 
aken  a  good  hold  of  the  soil,  but  a  handful  or 
two  of  bone-meal  to  each  will  not  harm  them. 
This  should  be  placed  on  the  surface  at  once  and 
lightly  covered  over  with  soil.  In  May  and  June 
give  the  plants  a  watering  with  soot  water  one 
week  and  guano  the  next.  About  a  pint  of 
the  former  made  into  a  paste,  then  mixed  with 
three  or  four  gallons  of  water,  would  be  the 
right  amount.  A  teaspoonsful  per  plant  of 
guano  would  do.  Mix  this  into  a  gallon  of 
water  and  apply,  but  see  that  the  soil  is  moist 
previous  to  giving  the  liquid.  Should  this  not 
be  so,  give  the  plants  a  good  watering  overnight. 
We  have  seen  splendid  Roses  grown  under 
similar  conditions  to  those  you  name,  but  you 
must  be  very  watchful  to  see  that  the  soil  does 
not  get  too  dry  during  May  and  June,  and,  in 
fact,  all  through  the  summer. 

Seeds  of  Hybrid   Sweet   Briars 

(Mrs.  R.). — We  know  of  no  firm  of  seedsmen 
who  sell  seeds  of  Lord  Penzance's  Sweet  Briars. 
If  you  are  desirous  of  raising  some  of  these 
Briars  from  seed  we  suggest  that  you  ask  some 
of  your  friends  who  possess  some  well -developed 


hedges  or  shrubs  of  these  charming  Briars  to  let 
vou  have  some  of  the  heps,  if  the  birds  have  not 
already  partaken  of  the  majority.  These  Briars 
seed  very  freely,  a  few  of  them  making  quite  a 
pretty  feature  in  the  autumn,  and  as  soon  as  the 
heps  are  ripe  they  should  be  gatherd  and  stored 
in  damp  sand  until  the  present  time  or  sown 
when  gathered.  The  seedlings  will  vary  con- 
siderably, some  of  them  even  producing  semi- 
double  blooms  :  but  it  is  a  slow  process  to 
obtain  plants  for  hedge-work  in  this  way.  It 
would  be  much  better  to  buy  some  budded 
or  own-root  plants,  which  may  be  obtained  at 
about  9s.  per  dozen  from  our  leading  nurserymen. 
Cuttings  root  very  freely  if  inserted  in  October. 
If  you  bought  a  plant  of  each  sort  (there  are 
about  sixteen)  and  planted  them  out  6  feet  apart 
they  would  afford  you  a  lot  of  cuttings  by  next : 
autumn.  I 

Covr-manupe  in  liquid  fopin   fop  Roses 

(/i.  E.  T.\—X  paraftin  cask  is  one  of  the  cheapest  and  best 
articles  you  can  obtain  for  the  liquid  manure.  You  can 
place  it  in  an  out-of-the-way  spot  and  stand  it  on  three  or 
four  bricks.  You  need  not  fear  any  leakage.  When  the 
time  comes  for  applying  the  liquid  (about  Mayor  June',  ^ 
put  a  peck  or  so  of  fresh  cow-manure  in  an  old  porous  bag  , 
and  drop  it  into  the  tub.  Then  put  about  half  a  peck  of 
soot  in  another  bag  :  place  this  also  in  the  cask  and  fill  up 
the  latter  with  water.  In  three  or  four  days  the  liquid 
is  lit  to  use  and  may  be  applied  neat.  After  tilling  up  the 
tub  once  more  you  should  renew  the  manure  for  a  third 
supply  of  liquid.  The  bags  should  be  moved  about  occa- 
sionally while  in  the  tubs.  1 
Rose  g-powtlis  injured  (.1.  Reid)  —It  is  well 
known  that  Rose  growths  attached  to  wire  will  perish  in 
an  unaccountable  manner  during  the  winter.  We  have 
frequently  had  the  same  thing  happen  when  we  have 
placed  a  wire  label  on  the  growth.  I'ndoubtedly  there  is 
some  magnetic  force  set  up  which  causes  the  mischief. 
Probably  in  your  case  the  friction  caused  by  the  wind 
would  account  for  the  injury  appearing  where  the  growths 
were  tied,  because  the  growtT  you  sent  was  a  soft,  pithy 
one  and  should  have  been  cut  away  in  any  case.  We  certainly 
think  it  would  be  advisable  if  you  could  place  some  laths 
or  other  form  of  wood  between  the  wire  and  the  shoots  of 
the  Roses.  Of  course,  there  might  be  something  deleterious 
in  the  green  paint,  but  we  do  not  think  so. 


Paraifin    as  a  winter  wash   for 

fPUlt  trees  (H.  W.  T.).—To  half  a  pint 
of  paraffin  add  half  a  pound  of  soft  soap. 
Thoroughly  dissolve  the  soap,  and  mix  the 
two  well  together  in  two  quarts  of  warm 
water.  Add  to  this  four  gallons  of  rain-water, 
when  it  is  ready  for  applying  to  every  part  of 
the  trees  in  the  form  of  a  spray,  either  by  using 
a  syringe  or  knapsack  sprayer.  Paraffin  does 
not  easily  mix  with  water  ;  therefore,  while  one 
man  is  applying  the  emulsion,  another  should  be 
churning  it  with  a  syringe  by  drawing  it  in  and 
fyringiiig  it  back  again  violently  into  the  can. 

An  old  Applcot  tree  to  ppopagrate  from 

(Flora).— \'o\XT  best  way  will  be  to  consult  a  fruit  tree 
nuiseryman,  who  would  be  able  to  graft  as  many  as  you 
may  desire,  as  they  have  generally  prepared  stocks  on 
hand  for  the  purpose.  Failing  this,  the  only  thing  to  do 
is  to  pull  off  (full  length)  young  shoots  of  last  year's 
growth  at  their  junction  with  the  older  wood,  tearing  off  a 
little  of  the  latter  in  the  operation.  Insert  these  cuttings 
(3  inches  deep  in  fine  sandy  soil  in  a  position  out  of  doors 
facing  north.  Ram  the  soil  hard  round  the  cuttings  and 
let  them  remain  until  the  following  autumn,  by  which 
time  many  of  them  will  have  emitted  roots.  They 
should  then  be  planted  in  sunnier  and  warmer  positions. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Peach    Royal    George   dropping- 

its  buds  [P.  H.  R.). — You  have  stated  your 
case  very  clearly,  and  we  quite  understand  the 
position  and  sympathise  with  you.  The  heavy 
crop  you  permitted  the  tree  to  bear  no  doubt  has 
had  something  to  do  with  the  mischief  ;  but  we 
think  that  the  principal  cause  of  the  trouble  lies 
in  the  fact  of  your  defoliating  the  tree  of  its 
leaves  before  they  had  time  to  complete  the 
function  of  developing  and  ripening  fruit-buds 
for  next  year.  Without  the  aid  of  its  leaves  it 
is  quite  impossible  for  the  tree  to  accomplish 
this.  No  doubt  it  will  be  a  lesson  to  you  to  never 
again  forcibly  take  the  leaves  off  a  Peach  tree, 
but  always  allow  them  to  fall  naturally.  Until 
they  do  so  you  may  rest  well  assured  that  they 
have  some  essential  duty  to  perform.  It  is  the 
same  with  over-cropping  ;  it  only  leads  to  failure 
in  the  future.  Dame  Nature  will  have  her 
revenge  !  Provided  the  border  is  well  drained 
we  do  not  think  the  watering  was  to  blame. 

Pruning  a  pot   Vine  (ir.  Frank).— 

As  the  Vine  has  been  in  a  pot  for  so  long  we  are 
afraid  the  soil  has  become  exhausted,  and  not 
much,  if  any,  fruit  can  be  expected  from  it.  It 
would  stand  a  better  chance  of  succeeding  if  it 
were  planted  out  of  doors  in  a  prepared  border 
and  the  stem  taken  in  through  a  hole  in  the 
wall.  We  presume  that  the  branches  marked  C 
and  B  on  sketch  (which  you  say  are  of  the  thick- 
ness of  an  ordinary  pencil)  are  of  last  year's 
growth.  If  so,  they  should  be  jut  back  to  their 
thickest  part,  say,  half  their  length.  The  young 
shoots  which  will  emanate  in  due  time  from  the 
shortened  shoots  may  produce  a  few  bunches  of 
Grapes.  Re  your  other  suggestion,  we  fear  it  is 
impossible  to  adopt  it  at  present.  We  already 
have  too  many  demands  on  our  space  and  much 
valuable  matter  has  to  be  left  out.  However, 
it  shall  be  borne  in  mind,  and  we  thank  you 
for  the  hint. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Appangement  of  gapden  (Xonvich  Amatevr). 
Your  gardeu  is  so  small,  60  feet  by  IS  feet,  that  your  plan 
of  it  seems  almost  too  elaborate.  Still  further,  you  do 
not  give  the  position  of  the  house,  but  presumably  it  is  at 
the  east  end.  On  the  north  side  you  have  a  corrugated 
iron  fence,  height  not  given.  As  that  looks  south  it  is 
your  warmest  position,  and  close  to  it,  supported  by  wires 
or  wood  trellis,  you  could  train  horizontal  Pears  and 
Green  Gage  Plums  ;  but  the  position  is  rather  warm  for  a 
Victoria  Plum,  which  if  flat-trained  should  do  best  on  the 
similar  fence  looking  east.  The  open  space  next  the 
arched  trellis  you  prol^ably  will  have  turfed,  and  beyond 
that  is  a  flat-trained  Cox's  Orange  Apple  tree,  which  we 
assu-Be  as  an  espalier  you  hope  will  grow  to  make  a  break 
across  the  width  between  the  turf  and  the  vegetable 
ground  behind.  This  is  a  very  small  space  for  such  a  pur- 
pose, and  would  have  been  better  occupied  by  planting  on 
it  Grooseberry  and  Currant  bushes.  Raspberries  and  Straw- 
berries. Close  to  the  iron  fence,  on  the  south  side  with  a 
north  aspect,  you  could  plant  Morello  Cherries  and  Black 
Currants.  It  is  difficult  to  give  an  opinion  as  to  the 
merits  of  a  y  garden  plan  on  paper  ;  the  site  needs  to  be 
seen  to  determine  how  best  it  may  be  utilised.  With  so 
small  a  garden  we  should  prefer  to  devote  it  to  either 
flowers  or  fruits  absolutely.  Y'ou  can  plant  for  climbing 
Roses  Dorothy  Perkins,  pink  ;  Dundee  Rambler,  white  : 
Alberic  Barbier.  creamy  white  ;  and  Paul  Transon,  soft 
salmon.  If  you  plant  another  flat-trained  Apple  tree 
beyond  Cox's  Orange  Pippin,  have  Alliugton  Pippin  or 
James  Grieve.  We  have  no  recollection  of  the  small 
garden  plan  you  refer  to.  You  will  find  it  wise  to  let  your 
plan  grow  under  your  eyes  or,  perhaps  better  still,  have 
no  plan  at  all,  hut  just  plant  the  small  space  at  your 
disposal  as  you  may  fancy.  This  will  give  you  far  more 
pleasure  than  slavishly  copying  any  plan. 


LEGAL     POINTS 


Master  and  servant  {W.  (?).— There 

is  no  rule  preventing  a  master  giving  his  servant 
notice  at  any  hour  of  the  day.  The  length  of 
notice  is  governed  by  the  original  arrangement 
of  the  parties.  If  nothing  was  specially  agreed 
upon,  the  rule  in  the  case  of  domestic  servants, 
including  a  head-gardener,  is  that  they  are 
entitled  to  a  month's  notice,  which  takes  effect 
at  the  expiration  of  one  calendar  month  from 
when  it  was  given.  Unless  the  conditions  of 
hiring  expressly  provided  that  the  master  should 
pay  for  removals  of  the  servant's  furniture,  the 
master  cannot  be  called  upon  to  bear  the  expense. 

Objectionable    erection    (Oats).— A 

man  who  had  bought  a  small  field  when  he  was 
more  prosperous  than  he  now  is,  having  been 
recently  ejected  from  a  public-house  which  he 
held  as  tenant,  has  bought  a  third-class  railway 
carriage,  put  a  stove  in,  i&e. ,  and  is  using  it  as 
a  temporary  dwelling-house.  The  fact  that  it  is 
unsightly  is  nothing,  and  there  is  no  evidence 
that  it  amounts  to  a  common  law  nuisance,  so 
you  cannot  take  legal  proceedings  to  stop  it. 
But  if  the  urban  district  council  has  express 
powers  under  its  bye-laws  to  pull  down  all  new 
buildings  which  do  not  comply  with  such  bye- 
laws,  it  is  possible  that  the  council  may  inter- 
vene and  so  do  you  a  good  turn. 


Supplement  to   THE  GARDEN,  February  lyth,   1909. 


ni^ 


THE    NEW    NEMESIA    BLUE    GEM. 

(WATKINS  &  SIMPSON.) 


Hudson  &-•  A'ltims,  Ltd.,  Prinlers,  London,  S.£. 


GARDEN. 


■^-r--V^^^ 


No.  1946. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


Makch  6,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


The    Cl  AssiF  i  oat  ion 

OF  DAFi'ODILS 

Notes  of  the  Webk 

Our  Special  Spring 
Number 

French  Horticultural 
Society  of  Loudon 

Gardeners'  Royal 
Benevolent  Insti- 
tution       

The  Royal  Cale- 
donian Horticul- 
tural Society  . .  . . 
Prizes  for  Readers 

CORREBPONDENOE 

Broad  Beans  and 
black  fly 

The  colouring  in  the 
flowera  of  Hydran- 
gea hortensis . .     . . 

Late-flowering  Chrj'- 
santhemums  . .     . . 

* '  Herbaceo  us  " 

flowers     

Acetylene  gas  genera- 
tor refuse   

Greenhouse 

Palms  for  market    . . 

Odontioda  chelsi- 
ensis 

The  treatment  of 
forced  shrubs 


109 


113 


113 


Fruit  Garden 

Fruit  notes        . .     . . 
Flower  Garden 
Sweet     Pea     Wliite 

Waved     

Methods  of  growing 
Sweet      Peas      for 
garden  decoration      113 
Daffodils  in  masses..     114 
Rose  Garden 
Rose     Marquise     de 

Sinety      114 

The  classification  of 
perpetual  •  flower- 
ing Roses       . .     . .     115 
Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        116 

Grafting  fruit  trees. .     116 
The  Town  Garden  ..    117 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For    the  South    and 

South  Midlands    ..     118 
For  the   North   and 
North  Midlands  ..    118 

New  plants 118 

A.NSWBBS  TO  Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . .  . .  119 
Greenhouse  ..  ..  119 
Rose  garden  . .  . .  120 
Miscellaneous  ..     ..     120 


THE 


OF 


IliLrUSTRATIONS. 

Eentia  forsteriana • Ill 

A  new  Orchid  (Odontioda  chelsiensis) 112 

Sweet  Pea  Wliite  Waved     113 

Hybrid  Tea  Rose  Marquise  de  Sinety      114 

Daffodils  massed  in  Mi*.  Teschemaclier's  garden        , .  115 

Grafting  fruit  trees 116,117 


EDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Every  deptiTtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
GARDEN,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  seTvi  in  qv^estions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  autlwrities.  With  that  object  he  toishes  to  make 
the  *^  ATiswers  to  Corre8po>ide7it8"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
toUl  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  0/  their  assistance. 
All  communicatioiis  must  be  loritten  dea/rly  on  one  side 
only  0}  the  paper ^  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  ruime  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  vnll  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  ca/re,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stwmps 
cure  enclosed,  he  vnU  endeavour  to  return  rwn-accepted 
co^Uributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  m>ust  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  a/rtiele  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  Garden 
xoiU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 

OSkesi  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


CLASSIFICATION 
DAFFODILS 

Br  THE  Royal  Horticoltural  Society. 
[A  reply  to  Mr.  Enc/leheart.] 

WHEN  I  wrote  my  last  notes  and 
promised  some  comments  on  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Dalibdil  classification,  I  had 
no  idea  that  an  article  from 
Mr.  Engleheart  would  appear  in  the  same  number. 
It  is  a  happy  coincidence,  as  we  have  now  before 
us  his  own  views  on  the  subject,  and  also,  let  us 
hope,  the  views  of  those  for  whom  he  speaks. 
"Some  of  those  most  closely  interested"  have 
evidently  written  to  the  great  prophet,  "  Come, 
curse  me  this  classification."  And  he  has  cast 
his  eyes  over  the  little  shilling  list  and  studied 
it,  and  then  (quite  unconsciouslj',  of  course)  he 
has  written,  "How  goodly  are  thy  divisions,  0 
council  I  and  thy  nomenclature,  0  committee  1 " 
For  what  do  we  find  ?  One,  and  only  one, 
real  difficulty  mentioned,  namely,  the  somewhat 
heterogeneous  company  that  find  themselves 
together  in  Class  7.  The  others  exist  only  in 
the  imagination  of  the  writer,  for  "Poets  '  will 
still  be  "  Poets,"  natural  classification  will  be 
absolutely  imtouohed,  the  same  seed-pod  will 
continue  to  bring  forth  difierent  types,  and 
Messrs.  Barr  can  go  on  arranging  their  catalogue 
exactly  as  they  please.  These  things  are  not 
affected,  I  am  happy  to  say,  else  indeed  it  would 
be  a  revolution  in  the  ways  of  Nature  and  of 
men  that  this  unassuming  little  list  has  caused. 

I  will  now  take  the  article  seriatim.  The 
keynote  of  the  whole  is  struck  in  the  title  ' '  The 
New  Classification  of  Daffodils."  For  once  the 
usually  accurate  Mr.  Engleheart  has  allowed 
himself  to  use  a  word  in  an  inaccurate  manner. 
We  can  hardly  describe  anything  as  new  unless 
something  similar  already  exists.  Now,  I  main- 
tain, from  a  fairly  wide  experience,  that,  as  far 
as  judging  at  shows  is  concerned,  there  has  been 
no  recognised  classification.  Some  wished  to 
go  by  Baker,  some  by  Messrs.  Barrs  list, 
others  by  parentage.  To  this  day  I  know  Mr. 
Watts,  who  showed  Peach  at  Birmingham  as  a 
Parvi,  considers  himself  an  aggrieved  mortal 
because  of  the  happy-go-lucky  method  of  judging 
at  present  in  vogue.  No,  the  classification  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  is  no  neio  one  in 
the  sense  that  it  is  intended  to  supersede  any 
other  ;  it  is  rather  a  first  attempt  from  head- 
quarters to  give  the  Daffodil  world  a  convenient 
working  arrangement  for  show  purposes  and  to 
meet  an  acknowledged  want. 

The  first  column  and  a-half  of  Mr.  Engle- 
heart's  article  deal  with  points  which  neither 
affect    the    goodness   nor    the    badness    of    the 


arrangement.  How  ever,  I  would  point  out,  first, 
that  it  was  the  council  themselves  who  appointed 
the  classification  committee,  and  the  procedure 
was  normal ;  secondly,  that  no  extraordinary 
blunder  has  been  made  with  regard  to  Mr.  P.  R. 
Barr's  name,  except  by  Mr.  Engleheart  himself, 
tor  the  council  nominated  Mr.  W.  Barr  and  not 
Mr.  P.  R.  Barr  ;  and,  thirdly,  a  better  estima- 
tion of  the  purposes  of  the  committee  can  be 
obtained  from  their  completed  work  than  from  the 
isolated  views  of  individuals  who  naturally  lay 
stress  on  that  particular  aspect  which  most 
appeals  to  them  as  individuals. 

Coming  now  to  what  one  might  call  criticism 
on  the  work  itself,  Mr.  Engleheart  puts  in  the 
forefront  of  his  remarks,  as  if  he  intended  it  to 
bear  the  heat  and  burden  of  the  day,  the 
"insuperable  fault"  that  it  is  not  a  "natural 
classification."  I  conclude  he  means  what  is 
usually  called  a  "botanical  classification."  If  I 
am  right,  I  think  I  may  say  this  is  precisely 
what  is  intended.  It  is  a  purely  arbitrary 
arrangement  which  can  be  used  for  the  passing 
needs  of  shows,  but  which  will  leave  untouched 
the  natural  divisions  of  botanists,  and  which 
may  sink  into  a  well-earned  oblivion  when  its 
ephemeral  work  is  done.  ' '  Naturam  e.vpellas 
furcd,  tamen  usque  recurret." 

Division  7  contains  strange  bedfellows,  every- 
one will  admit  ;  but  I  would  urge  that  it 
was  never  intended  to  leave  them  as  they  are. 
Sub-divisions  are  contemplated  here  as  in  other 
sections  (page  3,  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Classification)  ;  and,  further,  I  would  point  out 
that  varieties  with  more  than  one  flower  on  a  stem 
are  very  nearly  a  negligable  quantity  at  shows  ; 
hence  the  importance  of  Division  7  as  a  division 
is  considerably  lessened.  My  experience  of 
Hyacinth,  mentioned  by  Mr.  Engleheart,  is 
diametrically  the  reverse  of  his — with  me  it 
generally  comes  with  more  than  one  flower  on  a 
stem.  The  difficulty  of  the  same  variety  varying 
in  the  number  of  its  flowers  from  year  to  year  is 
present  now,  and  is  a  real  pitfall  to  the  unwary. 
In  1907  Hyacinth  may  have  been  shown  in  a  class 
for,  say,  twenty  varieties,  "  three  blooms  of  a 
variety,  neither  more  nor  less,"  when  it  hswi  only 
one  bloom  to  a  stem ;  but  in  1908  the  same 
variety  might  be  set  up  in  the  same  class  and  the 
unfortunate  exhibitor  not  notice,  or  think  it  did 
not  matter,  two  blooms  on  one  of  the  stems. 
Result  :  Disqualification  and  disgust.  This  is 
impossible  if  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
classification  be  adopted. 

In  Division  1,  attention  is  called  to  the  fact 
that  "  flowers  so  totally  distinct  by  nature  and 
to  the  eye  as  Ajax  proper,  oyclamineus,  hybrids 
of  triandrus  and  Bulbocodium "  are  classed 
together.      Well  !    this    is   nothing   new.      Both 


110 


lilE    GARDEN. 


[March  6,  1909. 


Baker  and  Barr  put  them  all  in  Group  1 
(Magni-Coronati),  and  in  a  class  for  twelve 
Magnis  they  could  all  be  shown  ;  but  somehow  in 
actual  practice  it  never  happens,  and  the  diffi- 
culty, if  it  is  one,  does  not  arise.  The  "  Poet" 
question  can  easily  be  solved,  as  is  suggested  on 
page  3  of  the  Classification,  by  subdividing 
Division  4. 

In  concluding  my  remarks,  I  would  refer  to 
the  last  sentence  of  Mr.  Engleheart's  article : 
"This  new  classification  ought  not  to  have  been 
launched  until  more  practically  complete."  It  is 
a  fair  criticism.  No  one  for  a  moment  will 
dispute  the  fact  that  to  have  issued  a  complete 
list  would  have  been  the  ideal  thing  to  do ;  but  in 
the  rough  and  tumble  of  life  we  have  to  be 
content  with  the  best  possible,  and  as  the  need 
was  urgent  and  as  every  season  the  multitude  of 
new  forms  would  make  the  task  more  ditticult,  I 
do  not  think  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
should  be  blamed  for  making  an  efibrt  to  give 
the  BafJodil  world  a  standard  for  its  shows  at 
the  earliest  opportunity.  The  classification  now 
issued  is,  in  intention,  complete  as  far  as  it  goes, 
and  it  has  not  proved  a  ditticult  matter  to  alter 
the  schedules  of  those  societies  which  have 
adopted  it.  .Tosefii  Jacoii. 

The  scholarly  and  dignified  article  from 
the  Rev.  6.  H.  Engleheart  in  your  issue  for 
the  20th  ult.  is  a  valuable  contribution  to  the 
controversy  raised  by  the  publication  of  the 
classification  of  Daffodils  by  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society.  I  am  a  comparative  novice 
and  cannot  claim  to  speak  on  the  matter 
with  the  experience  he  has  gained  in  a  quarter 
of  a  century's  study  of  the  flower,  but  I  am  quite 
content  to  take  my  time  from  him  and  to  beat 
the  big  drum  of  discontent  and  revolt.  The 
ways  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  are,  to 
the  uninitiated,  quaint  and  peculiar  ;  so  the  fact 
that  the  special  committee's  report  has  not  been 
referred  to  the  Narcissus  committee  does  not 
much  surprise  me.  All  the  same,  one  would 
rather  like  to  know  definitely  whether  this  special 
committee  was  given  from  the  first  what  is,  I 
think,  called  "  power  to  act,"  or  if  the  Narcissus 
committee  (of  which  I  was  not  then  a  member) 
agreed  beforehand  by  resolution  to  accept  their 
decisions  ?  It  would  be  waste  of  time  to  go  over 
the  points  of  objection  Mr.  Engleheart  raises  ; 
most  of  us  who  study  the  Daffodil  are  agreert  on 
them.  One  very  distinct  grievance  of  mine, 
however,  as  an  admirer  of  Poeticus  is  that  it 
has  no  class  to  itself,  and  thus,  at  a  show  like 
Birmingham,  for  instance,  where  Poeticus  has 
always  been  a  feature,  it  is  to  be  mixed  up  with 
Parvis.  in  a  class  called  "small  cups,"  which,  to 
use  an  expressive  phrase  of  the  Rev.  G.  P. 
Haydon's,  is  equivalent  to  showing  hunters 
against  thorough- breds.  I  am  surprised  that  the 
Birmingham  committee  have  adopted  the  classifi- 
cation, and  one  wonders  if  they  thoroughly 
discussed  it  previous  to  doing  so.  In  the  case 
of  the  Tunbridge  Wells  show  I  confess  I  used 
what  influence  I  possessed  towards  letting  it 
slide  for  the  present,  and  I  cannot  but  think 
that  the  several  other  societies  who  have  retained 
the  old  system  have  thereby  shown  common 
sense.  F.  Heruebt  Chapman. 


NOTES    OF   THE    WEEK. 


FOKTHCOMINQ    EVENTS. 

March  9.  —  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Plants,  &c.,  1  p.m.  to 
6  p.m.  Lecture  at  3  p.m.  by  Mr.  W.  S.  Murray 
on  ''Bulb-growing  in  Holland."  Admission, 
28.  tid.  Royal  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster. 


Oup    Special   Spring:   Number.— 

Next  week  we  shall  publish  a  specially  illustrated 
Spring  Number,  which  will  contain  numerous 
articles  by  well-known  experts  on  all  phases  of 


gardening.  By  this  means  we  hope  to  encourage 
our  readers  still  more  in  their  efforts  to  make 
their  gardens  as  beautiful  and  productive  as 
possible.  In  addition  to  the  illustrations  from 
photographs,  a  coloured  plate  of  a  new  Sweet  Pea 
will  be  given,  and  the  price,  as  usual,  will  be  one 
penny. 

National   Hopticultupal    Society 

of  Fpance. — At  the  recent  elections  of  the 
above,  our  old  contributor,  Mr.  Harman  Payne, 
was  elected  a  member  of  the  floral  committee  of 
the  Chrysanthemum  section  of  the  society. 

Fpencli  Hopticultupal  Society  of 
London. — At  the  annual  dinner  of  the  above 
society,  held  recently  at  the  Cafi  Royal,  when 
Sir  Albert  K.  RoUit,  Officer  of  the  Legion  of 
Honour,  presided,  a  telegram  on  behalf  of  the 
large  company  assembled  was  addressed  to  M. 
Fallit-res,  President  of  the  French  Republic,  offer- 
ing the  respectful  salutations  of  the  gathering. 
Sir  Albert  has  recently  received  in  reply  a  most 
cordial  message  from  the  Palais  de  I'Elys^e, 
thanking  him  as  chairman,  Mr.  G.  Schneider, 
Mr.  Harman  Payne,  and  the  members  of  the 
society  for  their  kind  message  and  salutations. 

Gapdeneps'     Royal     Benevolent 

Institution.— The  Liverpool  Auxiliary  held 
their  seventh  social  gathering  at  the  Bear's  Paw 
on  the  iOth  ult.  E.  Keaney,  Esq.,  C.C, 
occupied  the  chair.  The  large  hall  was  crowded 
and  the  programme  was  equal  to  its  predecessors. 
The  tables,  as  usual,  were  furnished  with  a  choice 
display  of  cut  flowers  and  plants,  owing  to  the 
generous  help  of  Messrs.  R.  P.  Ker  and  Sons,  C. 
A.  Young,  B.  Webbs  and  Sons,  Dickson's 
(Chester)  and  many  others.  The  chairman  gave 
a  brief  address,  in  which  he  noted  that  the 
parks  committee  hoped  to  remove  their  Botanic 
Gardens  into  the  clearer  atmosphere  of  Calder- 
stones  Park.  Mr.  R.  G.  Waterman  ably  carried 
out  the  secretarial  duties. 

Ppesentation  to  Mp.  G.  P.  Beppy. 

At  the  close  of  the  series  of  lectures  on  horti- 
culture given  under  the  auspices  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  of  Perthshire  during  the 
winter  by  Mr.  G.  P.  Berry  of  the  Edinburgh 
and  East  of  Scotland  College  of  Agriculture,  the 
lecturer  was  presented  with  a  purse  of  sovereigns 
by  the  class  as  a  token  of  their  appreciation  of 
his  lectures.  Mr.  Rufus  PuUar,  hon.  president  of 
the  society,  took  the  chair  and  warmly  eulogised 
the  work  done  in  the  class,  which  numbered  in 
all  no  fewer  than  240.  Mr.  Berry,  in  a  suitable 
reply,  thanked  the  subscribers  for  their  good 
feeling  towards  him. 

The  Royal  Caledonian  Hopti- 
cultupal Society.— The  council  of  the 
Royal  Caledonian  Horticultural  Society  has 
issued  its  report  for  the  past  year,  together 
with  a  list  of  members  and  a  statement  of 
accounts.  In  the  same  booklet  is  the  schedule 
of  prizes  for  the  spring  and  autumn  shows  of  the 
society.  The  spring  show  is  to  be  held  in  the 
Waverley  Market,  Edinburgh,  on  April  7  and  8, 
and  that  in  autumn,  which  is  the  Centenary 
show  of  the  Royal  Caledonian  Society,  is  on 
September  8  and  9  in  the  same  building.  The 
prize-list  for  the  spring  show  calls  for  no  special 
reference,  following,  as  it  does,  on  much  the  same 
lines  as  the  spring  shows  in  former  years.  For 
the  autumn  show  several  Centenary  prizes  are 
offered.  Thus,  a  Centenary  cup  is  to  be  awarded 
for  the  most  meritorious  exhibit  in  the  hardy 
and  hot-house  fruit  classes,  except  the  trophy 
class.  A  similar  cup  is  also  to  be  given  for 
the  most  meritorious  exhibit  in  the  plant  classes. 
An  interesting  competition  will  probably  arise 
for  the  Centenary  cup  and  3  guineas,  which, 
with  a  second  prize  of  5  guineas  and  a  third  of 
3  guineas,  are  offered  by  the  nursery  trade  in 
Edinburgh  for  thirty-six  vases  of  cut  flowers 
grown  in  and  cut  from  the  open,  and  to  occupy  a 
space  6  feet  by  5  feet.  A  Centenary  cup  is  also 
the  first  prize  for  the  display  of  vegetables, 
eighteen  varieties.  These  special  prizes  will  not 
only  help  to  mark  an  interesting  period  in  the 


history  of  this  old-established  society,  but  should 
stimulate  the  competition  at  the  autumn  show. 

A  new  fopeman  at  Kew.— Mr.  John 

Coutts,  head-gardener,  Killerton  Park,  Exeter, 
Devon,  has  been  appointed  to  succeed  Mr.  Osborn 
in  the  decorative  department  at  Kew.  Mr.  Coutts 
was  a  sub-foreman  in  the  decorative  department 
for  some  time  previous  to  February,  190O,  at 
which  date  he  was  appointed  head-gardener  to 
Sir  T.  Dyke  Acland,  Bart.,  at  Killerton  Park. 
Bpoccoli    and    the    weathep.  — As 

there  are  many  reports  of  the  failure  of  Broccoli 
through  the  frost,  a  good  selection  is  always  of 
importance,  and  I  here  append  some  varieties 
which  have  stood  the  ordeal  well — Sutton's  Late 
Queen,  Satisfaction,  Perfection,  Snow  White, 
Eastertide,  June  Monarch,  Veitch's  Model, 
Sutton's  Christmas  White  and  Sutton's  Superb 
Early  White.  The  two  last  mentioned  produced 
excellent  heads  at  Christmas,  and  all  the  other 
varieties  mentioned  look  exceedingly  well. 
Broccoli  seed,  in  order  that  the  plants  may  stand 
the  frost  well,  should  be  sown  thinly,  and  the  seed- 
lings transplanted  so  that  they  can  grow  sturdy 
and  strong.  By  this  means  the  plants  gain  points 
in  stamina,  and  are  therefore  better  able  to  with- 
stand cold,  frosty  weather.  Plants  that  are  grown 
and  taken  from  the  seed-beds  have  not  half  the 
chance  of  those  treated  differently.  Broccoli 
grown  on  the  lines  recommended  are  dwarf  and 
sturdy  ;  it  is  the  long-stemmed  plants  that  get 
frost-bitten.  Broccoli  require  firm  ground,  and 
when  planted  should  be  made  cjuite  firm  in  the 
soil  :  but  they  also  require  a  larger  hole  than  the 
usual  iron  bar  can  make,  especially  when  they 
have  a  mass  of  roots.  Slipshod  methods  at 
planting  time  often  bring  food  for  reflection  at 
the  would-be  cutting  season. — W.  A.  Cook, 
Leonards/ee  Gardens,  Horsham. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 

MARCH. 

THE  SIX  MOST  POPULAK  ORCHIDS 
AND    HOW   TO   GROW   THEM. 


A  First  Prize  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A    Second  Pfi«e   of  TWO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  PrUe  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  Prize  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on  the  above 
subject. 
The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  Thb  Gabdbn,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Wednesday,  March  31.  Both  amateur  and 
professional  gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Garden  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSS.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
deciBion  ia  final. 


OORRESPONDENOE. 

(The  Editor  is   not   responsible  for   the    opinioru 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

Bpoad    Beans    and    blacK    fly.— 

Seeing  the  article  on  "Broad  Beans  and  their 
Culture "  in  The  Garden  for  .January  30,  I 
thought  the  following  might  be  useful.  It  so 
happens  that  with  me  (unlike  your  correspon- 
dent) the  Broad  Bean  has  to  be  made  the 
aristocrat  of  the  kitchen  garden,  and  I  love  to  try 
by  different  means  to  prolong  its  season  as 
much  as  possible.     Last  July  I  had  a  row  nicely 


March  6,  1909.J 


THE    GARDEN. 


Ill 


set  with  Beans,  when  they  became  badly  infested 
with  black  fly.  I  had  the  hose  going  one  evening 
and  took  it  to  the  Beans,  and,  using  a  good  force 
of  water  with  a  finger  on  the  mouth  of  the 
hose,  thoroughly  washed  all  the  fly  off.  After  a 
slight  washing  again  the  next  morning  the  plants 
were  perfectly  clean,  and  no  more  black  fly  was 
seen.  I  won  first  prize  in  good  company  at  an 
August  show  with  Beans  off  that  row.  The 
variety  was,  what  is  in  my  experience  the 
champion  of  all  Broad  Beans,  Dickson's  (Chester) 
Improved  Longpod. — Thomas  Davies. 

The  colouping'  in  the  flowers  of 
Hydpan^rea  hortensla.— I  read  with 
much  interest  "  A  Note  from  British  Columbia" 
(page  27)  respecting  the  colouring  of  Hydrangea 
hortensis.  I  grow  about  thirty  plants  in  8-inch 
to  12-ineh  pots,  which  carry  from  fifteen  to 
thirty  blooms  on  each  plant.  When  I  first  took 
charge  of  them  about  four  years  ago  the  blooms 
were  all  pink  ;  the  year  following  the  smaller 
plants  showed  sigas  of  coming  blue,  and  all  the 
plants  have  increased  in  colour  each  year  (except 
two).  This  last  year  they  were  a  pretty  sight 
and  were  admired  by  all  who  saw  them.  I 
account  for  it  by  the  fact  that  we  use  water  from 
the  moors,  which  contains  iron  in  large  quantities  ; 
the  only  stimulant  they  get  is  liquid  manure 
from  the  farm,  and  about  twice  before  they  are 
in  full  bloom  a  sprinkling  on  the  surface  of  the 
pots  of  an  artificial  manure. — F.  R. ,  Baildmi. 

Liate  -  flowering  Chpysanthe- 
mums. — I  can  endorse  some  of  the  remarks 
made  by  Mr.  Harriss  (page  5.5)  relative  to  late- 
flowering  Chrysanthemums,  and  particularly  to 
the  early  closing  of  the  season.  The  reason  is 
no  doubt  due  to  the  mild  state  of  the  winter. 
The  white  and  yellow  Thomsons  are  rightly 
claimed  to  be  the  best  of  those  colours  for  late 
service  ;  they  have  such  splendid  substance  and 
consequent  endurance.  There  are  two  stocks — 
A.  J.  Balfour  and  Nina  Balfour — which  to  me 
appear  identical ;  at  least,  they  have  proved  to  be 
so  in  my  case.  As  a  Christmas  group  they 
present  strong  claims  for  patronage,  for  their 
colours  are  so  striking  under  natural  or  artificial 
light.  Framfield  Pink  I  have  long  since  dis- 
carded because  of  [the  faults  Mr.  Harriss  gives. 
Winter  Cheer,  said  to  be  a  sport  from  this 
variety,  is  a  distinct  acquisition  of  much  brighter 
colour,  and  apparently  of  much  greater  vigour. 
I  have  not  been  able  to  reconcile  it  as  having 
direct  Framfield  parentage  ;  but  whatever  its 
origin,  it  is  well  remembered  for  its  intensely 
bright  colour  tones  and  vigorous  attitude. 
Another  fine  variety  for  December  flowering  is 
Dr.  Englehardt,  deep  bright  rose  in  colour. 
This,  too,  has  a  vigorous  freedom  in  flower  and 
growth,  and  seen  when  staged  in  groups  creates 
a  lasting  impression.  It  is  quite  distinct  from 
Nina  Balfour,  though  flowering  at  the  same  time. 
Mrs.  Barkley,  like  Framfield  i?ink,  has  deterio- 
rated so  much  as  a  decorative  that  it  is  now 
discarded.  Matthew  Hodgson  continues  useful 
for  January  bloom,  its  bronzy  coloured  tints 
making  it  a  welcomechange  from  white,  yellowand 
pink,  which  have  had  some  predominance  in  late 
winter  displays.  Lord  Hopetoun  (crimson)  and 
Wilfred  Godfrey  (bronze)  are  other  useful  winter 
varieties  which,  like  Thomsons,  give  too  few 
cuttings  to  become  overstocked.  AUman's 
Yellow  and  King  of  Plumes  are  deep-coloured 
varieties  always  welcome  when  changes  in 
decorative  schemes  are  needed.  They  are  both 
good  keepers.  Sarah  Owen  (bronze)  and  Jlrs. 
Judson  (white)  are  incurveds  of  strictly  decora- 
tive value,  late ;  and  the  rich  butter-yellow 
Romance  gives  handsome  sprays  that  last  long  in 
perfection.  Western  King  and  its  primrose 
sport,  H.  J.  Gillingham,  are  good  December  sorts. 
Single  varieties,  which  are  becoming  so  promi- 
nent in  present-day  selections,  give  some  dis- 
tinctly useful  late  blooms.  Not  much  information 
is  given  in  catalogue  descriptions  bearing  on  late 
service,  but  I  have  found  many  plants  raised  from 
seed  give  December  flowers.  The  time  of 
stopping  and  the  choice  of  buds,  when  a  system 


of  disbudding  is  practised,  materially  alter  their 
season  ;  but  when  better  known  there  will  be  an 
accession  of  useful  varieties  available  for  mid- 
winter and  later.  Sorts  that  will  extend  the 
season  into  February  will  be  welcomed,  but  the 
season  1908-9  has  not  favoured  much  late 
flowers  of  any  section,  single,  incurved  or 
Japanese.  —  W.  Strugnbll,  Rood  Ashton 
Gardens. 

I  was  much  interested  in  Mr.  Harriss's 

note  on  late-flowering  Chrysanthemums,  and,  like 
him,  have  found  that  Framfield  Pink  and  also  Mile. 
L.  Charvet  have  deteriorated  to  such  an  extent 
as  not  to  be  worth  growing.  Winter  Cheer,  a 
deep  pink  sport  from  Framfield  Pink,  is  far 
superior  to  its  parent.  It  is  nearly  the  same 
shade  of  colour  as  A.  J.  Balfour,  but  does  far 
better.  With  me  the  latter  is  so  badly  diseased 
as  to  be  scarcely  worth  growing.  Good  as  Mrs. 
J.  Thompson  is,  with  me  Heston  White  is  better. 
Clarke's  Golden  Thompson  is  a  glistening  pale 
yellow,  but  not  deep  enough  for  artificial  light, 
and  both  Nagoya  and  AUman's  Yellow  are 
superior  to  it.  Bronze  Mrs.  Thompson  is  a  straw 
colour.  Frank  Wilcox  has  more  red  in  it  than 
Tuxedo,  but  both  are  good.  The  former  is  grown 
largely  in  this  neighbourhood  for  the  Christmas 


KENTIA   FORSTEBIANA.      (See  pai/e  li;.) 

trade.  L.  Canning  is  still  one  of  the  best,  if  not 
the  best,  white  for  dwarf  pot  plants  for  vases  ; 
but  it  is  a  variety  for  only  certain  situations, 
and  no  doubt  does  better  300  feet  above  sea- 
level  (as  here)  than  in  low-lying  districts.  Gem 
of  Earlswood  is  a  very  pretty  little  Anemone 
Pompon,  the  centre  citron  and  the  outer  petals 
blush  pink.  Treasure  is  a  small-flowered  deep 
yellow  single.  All  the  above  varieties  were  at 
their  best  here  at  Christmas,  and  Winter  Cheer 
and  Heston  White  were  good  till  the  middle  of 
.January. — J.  R. ,  Enfield. 

" Herbaceous "  flowers.— The  ques- 
tion raised  by  Mr.  Shanks  respecting  the  proper 
description  of  plants  or  flowers  which  are 
qualified  for  exhibition  in  competitions  when 
simply  described  as  "  herbaceous  "  is  interesting, 
and  one  that  it  is  always  advisable  in  schedules 
to  clearly  explain  in  a  footnote,  as  to  so  many 
diverse  persons  such  terms  as  "  herbaceous '"  may 
have  a  different  interpretation.  It  the  class 
indicated  is  to  comprise  those  which  are  hardy 
in  the  metropolitan  zone,  they  should  be 
regarded  as  hardy  all  over  the  kingdom.  This 
is  the  only  way  to  overcome  the  difficulty.  Then 
as  to  natures  of  plants  meant  when  the  term 
' '  herbaceous "  is  used,  it  should  be  in  the 
commonly  received  sense  that  it  applies  to  plants 
of  which  Phloxes,  Erigerons,  Michaelmas 
Daisies    and     perennial    Sunflowers    are    good 


examples,  these  having  perennial  rootstocks  and 
annual  stem-growths  which  die  down  in  the 
autumn.  But  if  bulbous  plants,  such  as  Lilies, 
Galtonias,  Montbretias  and  others  similar  are  to 
be  qualified,  the  footnote  should  say  so.  Schedules 
should  not  refer  the  competitor  to  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society's  Rules  of  Judging  unless 
the  classes  are  those  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society.  Drafters  of  schedules  cannot  be  too 
clear  in  these  matters,  and  are  well  advised  to 
add  starred  footnotes  in  all  cases  to  classes  that 
need  authoritative  elucidation.  The  botanical 
construction  of  the  term  "  herbaceous  "  is  that  it 
applies  to  all  plants  that  have  soft  stems,  even 
to  Carnations,  Pinks,  Sweet  Williams  or  Pansies, 
because  their  stems,  unlike  those  ot  the  Rose  or 
shrubs  or  trees,  are  not  hard  or  woody.  This 
may  be  a  proper  or  scientific  use  of  the  term, 
but  it  is  not  that  generally  accepted  in  gardens. 
I  like  the  wording  of  the  Shrewsbury  schedule 
very  much.  This  reads,  "  Bunches  of  hardy 
flowers,  annuals  and  shrubs  excluded."  In  such 
a  class  Roses  and  Carnations  as  well  as  bulbous 
flowers  come  in.  It  is  well  in  encouraging  hardy 
flowers  to  open  the  classes  for  them  as  wide  as 
possible. — D.  K. 


ACETYLENE    GAS    GENERA- 
TOR  REFUSE 

For    Garden    Crops. 
[In  answer  to  several  Correspondents.} 

THE  question  of  the  usefulness  or  other- 
wise in  gardens  of  the  refuse  from 
the  acetylene  generator  plants  is  very 
frequently  raised.  May  this  refuse 
be  placed  upon  the  land  without 
injury  to  crops  and  with  beneficial 
effect  upon  the  soil  ?  is  mostly  asked.  Calcium 
carbide  is  made  by  causing  lime  and  carbon  to 
combine  together  in  an  electric  furnace,  so  that 
a  nompound  having  the  chemical  formula  CaCj 
is  formed.  When  water  is  brought  into  contact 
with  this  substance,  certain  chemical  reactions 
immediately  take  place,  with  the  result  that 
acetylene  gas  is  generated  and  a  white  substance 
remains  mixed  and  partly  dissolved  in  water. 
This  is  shown  by  the  following  chemical  equation : 

CaCj  -r  -iHaO  =  C^H^  +  Ca(OH). 
(Calcium  carbide)  (water)  (acetylene)  (slaked  lime) 
The  white  substance  is  slaked  lime,  and  if  it  were 
not  for  the  presence  of  some  impurities,  derived 
mostly  from  the  form  of  carbon  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  the  carbide  (that  have,  of  course, 
been  ignored  in  the  equation),  this  slaked  lime 
would  not  differ  in  the  least  from  that  obtained 
when  fresh  burnt  lime  is  slaked  with  water. 

On  account  of  the  presence  of  some  impurities 
in  the  carbide,  however,  the  refuse  is  likely  to 
contain  certain  compounds  of  sulphur  and  lime 
(sulphidea),  and  occasionally  some  phosphide  of 
lime,  a  compound  of  phosphorus  and  lime.  Both 
of  these  compounds  are  injurious  to  plant-life, 
but  the  latter  is  not  likely  to  be  present  in 
sufficient  quantities  to  do  any  appreciable 
damage,  and  the  former  soon  alter  in  composition 
in  the  soil  and  become  innocuous.  Thus  the 
refuse  may  be  used  with  advantage  upon  soils, 
though  it  should  first  be  exposed  to  the  action  of 
the  air  for  a  time  before  it  is  allowed  to  come  in 
contact  with  roots.  It  may  be  spread  on  the 
soil  in  the  autumn  at  the  rate  of  about  half  a 
bushel  to  the  square  rod,  as  evenly  as  possible, 
and  allowed  to  lie  for  a  time  before  it  is  forked 
in.  Used  in  this  way  it  will  have  the  same  bene- 
ficial effects  upon  the  soil  as  a  dressing  of  slaked 
lime  applied  in  the  same  way,  counteracting 
sourness  of  the  soil  and  mitigating  the  evils 
arising  therefrom,  and,  in  the  case  of  clay  soils, 
causing  the  minute  particles  of  clay  to  coagulate 
and  therefore  making  the  pores  in  the  soil  larger 
and  the  soil  itself  easier  to  work,  more  open  to 
the  air  and,  as  a  result,  more  easily  warmed  by 
the  sun  in  the  spring.  Scientist. 


112 


THE     GARDEN. 


[M.^CH  6,  1909. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 


PALMS    FOR    MARKET. 
A   LMOST    the    only    Palm     brought    into 
/\  Covent  Garden  Market  in  ray  young 

/  \  (Jays  was  the  large-growing  Fan 
/  \  Palm  (Latania  borbonica),  and  even 
y  \^  this  was  met  with  in  limited  numbers. 
Time  has,  however,  changed  all  this, 
and  Palms  are  now,  in  some  large  establish- 
ments, grown  literally  by  the  acre,  the  demand 
for  them  being  so  great.  What  is  more,  the 
Latania  now  occupies  a  very  subordinate 
position,  the  pride  of  plate  undoubtedly 
belonging  to  the  Kentias,  which,  from  plants  in 
2J-inch  pots  to  noble  specimens  12  feet  high,  all 
find  a  ready  sale.  It  would  be  quite  impossible 
to  even  hazard  a  guess  as  to  the  numbers  that 
are  disposed  of  in  Covent  Garden  alone,  grown 
in  -5-inch,  or,  as  they  are  termed,  forty-eight- 
sizedpots.  .Suehan  one  as  is  illustrated  on  page  111 
may  realise  anything  from  Is.  Ijd.  to  23.  6d. , 
which,  coneidering  all  inridental  expenses,  does 
not  seem  to  leave  a  large  margin  for  profit. 
There  are  two  kinds  generally  grown,   namely. 


large,  and  it  consequently  soon  falls  into  ill- 
health  and  ultimately  dies.  It  is  far  better  in 
most  cases  to  allow  the  plant  to  remain  in  the 
same  pot  and,  if  necessary,  give  it  an  occasional 
stimulant  in  the  shape  of  some  of  the  highly 
concentrated  manures  now  so  much  in  vogue. 
When  thoroughly  established  the  stout  roots  are 
apt  to  coil  around  the  bottom  of  the  pot  and,  by 
slightly  lifting  the  ball  of  earth,  allow  the  water 
to  escape  between  it  and  the  pot.  The  result 
will  be  a  gradual  starving  of  the  plant.  If  this 
is  feared,  a  good  way  to  water  the  Palm  is  to 
stand  it  in  a  pail  of  water  and  allow  it  to  remain 
therein  for  half-an-hour  or  thereabouts.  Then 
take  it  out  and  let  it  drain  before  placing  it  in 
the  saucer  or  other  receptacle.  On  no  account 
must  water  be  allowed  to  stand  in  the  saucer, 
as  this  causes  the  soil  to  turn  sour  and  sets  up 
decay  of  the  roots.  The  plant  should  always  be 
shaded  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the 
foliage  must  be  occasionally  sponged.  Where 
Kentias  are  grown  in  quantity,  the  object  is  to 
obtain  saleable  plants  in  as  short  a  time  as 
possible,  and  so  they  are  kept  in  a  warm, 
moisture-laden  atmosphere.  This  makes  them 
more  susceptible   to   colds  and    drauglits    than 


A  NEW  ORCHID   (ODONTIODA  CHELSIBNSIS). 


Kentia  forsteriana,  which  is  the  one  illustrated, 
and  K.  belmoreana,  characterised  by  more 
numerous  leaflets  and  a  rather  dwarfer  habit. 
Intermediate  forms,  however,  often  crop  up  in 
a  batch  of  seedlings.  Although  they  are  gene- 
rally grown  and  referred  to  under  the  name  of 
Kentias,  these  Palms  are  by  botanists  placed 
in  the  genus  Howea.  This  name  is  derived  from 
the  fact  that  they  are  both  natives  of  Lord 
Howe's  Island,  oti'  the  east  coast  of  Australia. 
It  was  in  the  early  seventies  that  they  were  first 
introduced  into  cultivation,  but  some  years 
elapsed  before  they  became  popular. 

At  the  present  time  immense  importations  of 
seeds  reach  this  country',  and  they  are,  as  a  rule, 
bought  up  very  quickly  and  sown  without  delay, 
for,  in  common  with  Palm  seeds  in  general,  they 
do  not  retain  their  vitality  long  when  in  a  dry 
state.  The  plants  as  met  with  even  on  the 
costermongers'  barrows  in  the  streets  of  London 
are  admirably  suited  for  dropping  into  orna- 
mental pots  for  various  decorative  purposes. 
Most  of  these  Kentias  are  grown  in  comparatively 
small  pots,  and  this  is  an  item  in  their  culture 
in  which  the  amateur  is  very  liable  to  err,  for 
the  plant  is  often  shifted  into  a  pot  much  too 


plants  grown  under  cooler  conditions  would  be. 
In  order  to  obviate  this  as  far  as  possible,  newly 
purchased  plants  should  have  a  little  extra  care 
and  attention  bestowed  upon  them.  H.  P. 


ODONTIODA  CHELSIENSIS. 
Sevebal  beautiful  additions  have  been  made  to 
the  Odontiodas  during  recent  years,  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  forms  the  subject  of  this  note. 
It  was  raised  by  Messrs.  William  Bull  and  Sons, 
King's  Road,  Chelsea,  London,  S.  W.,  and  was 
shown  by  them  before  the  Manchester  and  North 
of  England  Orchid  Society  on  .January  7  of  this 
year,  when  it  received  an  award  of  merit.  It  is 
the  result  of  crossing  Coehlioda  vulcanica  grandi- 
flora  and  Odontoglossum  crispum,  the  flowers 
being  a  deep  rosy  carmine,  shaded  with  violet 
purple.  The  single  flower  in  the  illustration  is 
shown  natural  size. 


THE    TREATMENT    OF    FORCED 
SHRUBS. 

DuRiKG  early  spring  we  depend  largely  upon 
forced  shrubs  to  keep  up  the  floral  display  in 
our  greenhouses  and  conservatories,  and  without  I 


a  judicious  selection  of  hardy  shrubs  gradually 
brought  into  flower,  and  thus  anticipating  their 
usual  season  of  blooming  when  out  of  doors,  there 
would  be  a  considerable  sameness  at  this  period 
among  the  floral  occupants  of  such  structures. 

In  revising  the  shrubs  suitable  for  this 
treatment,  one  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  our 
great  indebtedness  to  the  vast  Rose  family,  as, 
even  omitting  Roses  themselves,  many  of  their 
immediate  relatives  are  among  the  most  useful 
shrubs  we  have  for  this  purpose.  The  purple- 
leaved  Plum,  known  generally  as  Prunus  Pissardii, 
though  from  a  foliage  point  of  view  frequently 
overdone  in  gardens,  has  the  sombre  -  tinted 
bark  of  the  branches  (on  the  ends  of  which  the 
bursting  leaf -buds  are  showing  just  a  suspicion  of 
their  reddish  foliage)  lit  up  with  myriads  of  its 
pretty  little  blossoms,  in  colour  white  with  a 
pinkish  centre.  This  is  most  effective  in  the 
shape  of  large  specimens. 

After  this  may  be  named  the  small-growing 
Prunus  sinensis,  whose  slender,  upright  shoots  are 
wreathed  with  pretty  double  blossoms,  in  one 
form  pure  white  and  in  the  other  slightly  tinged 
with  pink.  This  is  grown  in  immense  numbers 
by  the  Dutch  nurserymen,  who  supply  this 
country  with  the  greater  part  of  our  forcing 
shrubs.  Surely  many  of  them  could  be  grown  here 
and  thus  keep  the  money  at  home.  An  ecjual 
favourite  with  the  species  just  named  is  Prunus 
triloba,  with  semi-double  blossoms  of  a  rich  rose 
colour.  It  is  remarkably  showy  when  at  its 
best,  and  the  readiness  with  which  it  can  be 
forced  renders  it,  like  Prunus  sinensis,  a 
universal  favourite. 

As  the  genus  Prunus  is  not  now  confined  to  the 
Plums,  but  also  embraces  the  Cherries,  Almonds 
and  Peaches,  there  are  others  especially  desirable 
for  forcing.  Prominent  among  them  are  the 
Japanese  Cherries  (Prunus  Pseudo  -  Cerasus), 
represented  by  several  varieties,  among  which 
J.  H.  Veitch,  with  its  large,  semi-double,  blush- 
tinted  flowers  and  bronzy  leaves,  stands  out  as 
one  of  the  best.  •  That  rich-coloured  variety  of 
the  Peach  known  as  magnifiea,  from  the  bright- 
ness of  its  colouring,  asserts  itself  in  any  group. 

The  above  by  no  means  exhaust  the  list  of 
Rosaceous  shrubs  of  great  value  for  forcing,  as 
we  have  the  Spiiieas,  especially  S.  arguta,  S. 
confusa,  S.  prunifolia  flore-pleno  and  S.  Thun- 
bergii,  Cydonia  or  I'yrus  japonica  in  its  several 
forms,  Pyrus  floribunda  and  Thorns  of  different 
sorts,  but  more  particularly  that  rich-coloured 
form  known  as  Paul's  Double  Scarlet. 

Rhododendrons,  now  that  the  Azaleas  are  in- 
eluded  therewith,  form  quite  a  host  in  them- 
selves. Of  the  evergreen  sorts,  many  of  the  early 
flowering  varieties  may  be  gently  forced  without 
difficulty,  while  sucli  as  R.  priucox  and  R.  Early 
Gem  must  on  no  account  be  pissed  over  in  any 
selection  of  the  very  best.  The  deciduous  types, 
to  which  the  name  of  Azalea  still  holds  in  gardens, 
contain  in  Azalea  mollis  one  of  the  most  popular 
of  all  shrubs  for  forcing.  The  warm  terra-cotta 
tint  of  the  blossoms  of  many  of  these  is  not  only 
uncommon  among  shrubs,  but  is  very  effective  by 
artificial  light.  Some  take  exception  to  Azalea 
mollis  on  account  of  its  lumpiness,  and  to  these 
the  lighter  and  taller-growing  forms  known  as 
Ghent  Azaleas  will  commend  themselves. 

Lilacs  have  long  been  very  popular  for  forcing, 
and  they  so  readily  lend  themselves  to  this 
treatment  that  they  are  likely  to  remain 
favourites  for  a  very  long  time.  The  double 
varieties  do  not  flower  so  freely  when  small,  hence 
they  are  scarcely  so  generally  employed  for 
forcing  as  the  single  sorts.  Far  and  away  the 
favourite  for  this  purpose  is  the  pure  white 
Marie  Legraye,  which  blooms  freely  when  small. 

It  is  not  so  very  many  years  ago  that  Magnolias 
were  rarely  forced,  but  now  they  are  largely 
treated  in  this  way.  The  massive  Bowers  render 
them  totally  distinct  from  any  other  forced 
shrubs  ;  such  as  il.  eonspioua,  M.  Lennei 
and  M.  soulangeana  among  the  larger  forms, 
with  the  small-growing  M.  stellata,  are  the  best 
for  the  purpose. 


March  6,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


ii; 


Almost  from  its  introduction  the  pretty  little 
Deutzia  gracilis  proved  its  adaptability  for 
forcing,  and  some  of  the  newer  hybrids  are 
equally  desirable.  Prominent  among  them  is 
D.  Lemoinei,  a  larger  grower  than  Y).  gracilis. 
This  note  on  shrubs  for  forcing  might  be  much 
extended  ;  but  having  already  reached  the  limit 
of  a  reasonable  article,  I  will  just  give  the  names 
of  a  few  others  that  must  not  be  omitted  from 
any  list,  however  select :  Andromeda  floribunda, 
A.  jiponica,  Forsythia  suspensa,  Staphylea 
oolehica,  Viburnum  Opulus  sterile,  V.  plicatum 
and  Xinthoceras  sorbifolia.  H,  P. 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN. 

FRUIT    NOTES. 

GRAFTING. —There  is  no  doubt  that 
this  is  one  of  the  most  important 
operations  connected  with  the 
culture  of  our  principal  fruits,  for 
it  is  by  its  aid 
that  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  trees  are  increased 
each  season.  With  this  phase 
of  grafting,  however,  the 
amateur  has  little  to  do  other 
than  to  experiment  now  and  again, 
his  grafting,  as  a  rule,  being 
restricted  to  the  renovation  of 
trees  which  either  do  not  crop  or 
produce  fruits  of  no  value.  This 
aspect  of  the  matter  is  full  of 
interest,  as  it  is  a  work  demanding 
skill  and  cire  if  gratifying  results 
are  to  accrue.  Every  amateur  gar- 
dener should  try  his  hand  at  the 
insertion  of  scions,  and  he  will 
soon  find  himself  able  to  carry  it 
out  successfully  on  the  Apples  and 
Pears  in  the  garden. 

Time  of  Insertion. — The  graft- 
ing of  fruit  trees  is  always  carried 
out  in  the  spring,  and  the  correct 
time  is  just  as  the  sap  is  rising 
freely  in  the  stocks,  but  the  scions 
themselves  must  still  be  in  a 
perfectly  dormant  state.  Old  or 
useless  trees  that  are  to  be  operated 
upon  should  have  their  main 
branches  cut  back  to  within  1  foot 
or  so  of  the  bole  or  trunk,  and  it 
is  into  these  stumps  that  the 
grafts  will  be  inserted.  It  is 
almost  always  excellent  practice, 
where  old  and  probably  somewhat 
debilitated  stocks  are  being 
worked,  to  secure  scions  from 
vigorous-growing  varieties,  such 
as  in  Apple  Bramley's  Seedling 
and  in  Pear  Pitmaston  Duchess, 
for  these  appear  to  have  the 
power  to  impart  some  of  their 
vigour  to  the  stocks,  and  thus 
splendid  trees  are  secured  in  a 
comparatively  short  time.  To 
keep  the  grafts  at  rest,  they 
should  have  been  stored  in  a 
very  cool  position,  such  as  beneath  a  wall 
or  a  hedge  with  a  northern  aspect.  At  the 
moment  of  insertion  each  should  have  four 
healthy  growth-buds  lying  closely  down  to  the 
stem. 

Method  of  Insertiox. — The  actual  insertion 
of  the  grafts  has  been  illustrated  in  The  Garden 
on  more  than  one  occasion,  and  it  will  therefore 
suffice  to  briefly  describe  the  process.  With  a 
chisel  or  sharp  knife  a  wedge-shaped  piece  is  out 
out  of  the  stump,  and  the  scion  is  then  taken  in 
hand  and  cut  so  that  the  wedge  left  at  the  base 
corresponds  exactly  with  that  on  the  stock  ;  it 
is  then  placed  in  position.  In  doing  this,  the 
fact  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  a  union  of  the 
inner  barks  is  imperative  on  at  least  one  side 
and  preferably  on  both,  or  the   operation  will 


undoubtedly  fail.  To  make  the  outer  barks  join 
up  may  be  desirable  ;  but  it  is  the  inner  ones  that 
effect  the  results.  There  are  slight  variations  of 
this  method  of  inserting  the  scions  ;  but  which- 
ever one  may  be  chosen  for  adoption,  the  secret 
of  success  will  lie  in  ensuring  the  junction  of  the 
inner  barks  on  one  side  at  least. 
'Tying  and  Enclosing. — When  young  stocks 
are  being  worked  in  fruit  nurseries  only  one 
scion  is  inserted  in  each,  but  when  one  is 
dealing  with  old  trees  four  or  more  may  be  put 
to  each  stump,  and  when  they  are  in  it  is 
necessary  to  securely  tie  with  any  convenient 
material.  This  done,  the  final  detail  must  have 
attention,  and  this  is  to  so  enclose  the  union  that 
it  is  impossible  for  air  to  gain  admission,  other- 
wise the  operator  will  have  to  record  a  failure 
instead  of  a  success.  Where  only  a  few  stocks 
are  being  dealt  with,  grafting  wax  should  always 
be  used,  and  this  can  oe  purchased  in  tins  prac- 
tically ready  for  immediate  use  ;  but  it  is  apt  to 
run  a  trifle  expensive,  and  a  wax  should  either 
be  made  up  at  home  or  clay  should  be  employed. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


SWEET    PE4.  WHITE  WAVED. 

THIS  is  a  giant  waved  varietj'  which 
produces  its  lovely  pure  white  flowers 
in  abundance  and  continues  flowering 
until  late  in  the  season.  It  was  dis- 
tributed in  this  country  last  j'ear  by 
Mr.  Henry  Eekford  of  Wem,  and 
proved  to  be  one  of  the  prettiest  whites  in 
existence.  Last  year  I  grew  it  with  the  beautiful 
scarlet  variety,  Queen  Alexandra,  and  thecontrast, 
though  vivid,  was  of  a  very  pleasing  character.  As 
adecorative  and  exhibition  variety.  White  Waved 
deserves  to  be  grown  in  all  good  collections.     H. 


SWEET  PEA  WHITE  WAVED. 

The  latter  is  the  cheaper,  but  there  is  an  ever- 
present  liability  that  it  will  crack  and  thus  air  be 
able  to  gain  admission  ;  if  it  is  used  the  grower 
should  make  it  a  rule  to  inspect  the  work 
frequently,  and  if  cracks  are  seen  to  at  once  fill 
them  up  again.  A  good  clay  can  be  prepared 
with  loam,  very  short  manure  and  water,  and 
these  ingredients  must  be  mixed  until  they 
become  a  beautifully  plastic  mass  which  can  be 
worked  and  moulded  into  any  desired  shape. 
This  is  worked  on  with  the  hands,  whereas  if 
wax  is  used  it  is  painted  on  in  a  semi-liquid 
condition  with  a  brush,  and  it  has  the  merit  of 
never  cracking,  provided  that  it  is  properly 
prepared  according  to  the  directions  of  the 
vendors  and  applied  strictly  according  to  their 
instructions.  •  Fruit-grower. 


METHODS  OF  GROWING  SWEET 
PEA.S  FOR  GARDEN  DECORATION. 
(Second  Prize  Essay.) 
In  considering  the  growing  of  Sweet  Peas  from 
the  point  of  view  of  garden  decoration  only,  one 
should  premise  that  in  the  pre- 
paration of  the  soil ,  whether  in  the 
open  ground  or  in  pots,  the  sowing 
of  seed,  &e. ,  the  treatment 
accorded  should  be,  to  all  intents 
and  purposes,  as  if  the  blooms 
were  intended  for  exhibition. 
Alas  1  far  too  often  is  the  term 
"garden  decoration"'  a  synonym 
and  an  excuse  for  neglect  and 
general  carelessness.  But  apart 
altogether  from  the  actual  well- 
doing of  the  plants,  there  remains 
the  even  more  important  duty  of 
their  correct  placing  in  the  general 
colour  scheme,  so  that  the  beauty 
of  the  flowers  may  be  enjoyed  to 
the  fullest  extent.  Although, 
unfortunatel}',  it  is  not  given  to 
all  of  us  to  have  just  the  sur- 
roundings we  should  choose  for 
our  plants,  yet  perhaps  a  few  hints 
may  be  useful,  if  only  to  indicate 
in  general  terms  one  or  two  of  the 
more  important  points  which  must 
be  borne  in  mind  in  considering 
such  a  question. 

The  chief  note  in  all  such  should 
be  restfulness  and  restraint,  and 
there    are    but    few    gardens    in 
which,    by   a    little    forethought, 
some  quite  simple  garden  picture 
may   not    be    realised    and   one's 
artistic  eye  satisfied.    To  that  end 
the  mixed  seed  packet  should  be 
rigorously    eschewed,    experience 
teaching   us   that   while  so  many 
hundred     plants     may    be    quite 
useful  as  an  example  of   kaleido- 
scopic effect,  they  are  not  neces- 
sarily decorative,  and  that  far  more 
satisfactory  results   are    obtained 
by   the    use   of    but   one   colour, 
or  two  colours  at    most,    in    any 
single  clump  or  short  row,  and  that 
hedges  also  should  be  planted  in 
a  well-ordered  colour  sequence. 
One  dwells  with  pleasure  on  the  delightfully 
satisfying  effect  of  one  such  picture  realised  last 
summer  by  the  planting  in  grass  of  a  clump  of 
Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes  (soft  pink)  with  a  back- 
ground of  old  lichen-covered  fruit  trees  to  give 
just  the  proper  amount  of  relief.      An  equally 
pretty  arrangement  would  be  a  combination  of  a 
3-feet-wide  border  of   Giant  White  Stocks  sur- 
rounding an  isolated  clump  of  Queen  Alexandra 
(scarlet),  or  a  planting  of  Dorothy  Eekford  (white) 
among  blue  Delphiniums,  with  a  few  pieces  of 
Aster  aoris  (soft  blue)  in  front  to  hide  the  some- 
what rusty  appearance  of  the  Delphiniums  when 
dying  down. 

Other  good  garden  pictures  would  result  from 
a  clump  of  Lady  Grisel  Hamilton  (lavender)  as  a 
centre-piece  to  a  bed  of  lemon-coloured  Iceland 


114 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[March  6,  1909. 


Poppies,  a  short  row  of  Mrs.  Walter  Wright 
(mauve)  with  Dorothy  Eokford,  while  a  planting 
of  Dora  Breadmore  (buff)  amid  pale  pink  double 
Hollyhocks,  with  a  foreground  of  yellow 
Coreopsis,  would  also  be  successful.  Such  com- 
binations can  be  multiplied  almost  indefinitely, 
and  as  one's  experience  grows  and  one's  artistic 
sense  develops  it  becomes  a  continuous  delight 
to  plan  out  colour  schemes  more  and  more 
ambitious,  but  which,  in  every  example,  must 
have  the  fundamental  rule  of  harmony  as  its 
base. 

An  objection  often  urged  against  the  use  of 
Sweet  Peas  in  garden  decoration  is  that  some 
considerable  time  must  elapse  before  the  haum  is 
sufficiently  grown  to  cover  the  sticks,  and,  in 
consequence,  until  that  period  arrives  the  imme- 
diate neighbourhood  is  rendered  more  or  less 
unsightly.     This  may  be  largely,  if  not  entirely. 


cannot  be  better  exemplified  than  in  a  Sweet  Pea 
hedge  designed,  maybe,  as  a  division  between  the 
kitchen  and  the  flower  garden,  or  as  a  shelter  to 
the  rosarium,  or,  again,  as  a  screen  to  some  out- 
of-the-way  corner.  Beginning  with  stretches, 
say,  3  feet  to  4  feet,  of  dark  and  lighter  blue, 
there  should  follow  successive  lengths  of  white, 
pale  yellow  and  pale  pink,  the  colour  then  toning 
up  through  rose  to  scarlet  and  crimson,  dying 
away  again  in  inverse  order  through  orange, 
yellow,  pale  pink,  buflf  and  white,  finishing  with 
lavender  and  purple.  If,  further,  it  be  arranged 
that  no  sharp  division  between  the  shades  be 
noticeable,  rather  that  they  should  gently 
merge  one  into  the  other,  such  a  hedge,  whether 
viewed  either  from  a  distance  or  examined  at 
close  quarters,  will  be  a  continual  delight,  each 
colour  blending  with  its  neighbour  into  one  har- 
monious whole,  and  with  none  of  the  hard  and 


Lewis  ;  pink,  Boltons  Pink  ;  pale  pink,  Queen 
of  Spain  :  buff,  Dora  Breadmore  ;  creamy  pink, 
Constance  Oliver  ;  white,  Nora  Unwin  ;  white, 
edged  lilac,  Phenomenal  ;  lavender.  Lady  Grisel 
Hamilton :  and  purple,  A.  J.  Cook.  These  with 
Mrs.  Walter  Wright  (mauve),  Helen  Pierce 
(mottled  blue).  .Jeannie  Gordon  (rose  and  cream). 
America  (white,  striped  crimson)  and  Black 
Knight  (maroon)  make  up  a  list  of  twenty-four 
reliable  sorts,  which,  with  the  Cupids  given 
below,  will  be  found  sufficient  for  all  the  ordinary 
requirements  of  garden  decoration.  One  regrets 
the  exclusion  of  two  such  beautiful  sorts  as  Henry 
Eokford  (orange)  and  Audrey  Crier  (richest  pink), 
but  the  former's  poor  growth  and  the  latter's 
sportiveness  render  them  both  unsuitable  for 
such  a  list. 

Cupid  varieties :  Countess  of  Radnor.  lavender ; 
Firefly,  scarlet ;    Royalty,  pink  ;    Captain  of  the 
Blues,   violet  purple ;    Crimson   and 
White.  W.  Bentley. 

Field  End,  Eastcote,  Middlesex. 


DAFFODILS  IN  MASSES. 
Daffodils  never  look  more  beautiful 
than  when  seen  growing  in  broad 
masses.  I  have  a  long  border  in 
which  about  .">,  000  bulbs  were  planted 
twoyearsago.  Bulbs  sf  theBlueOrape 
Hyacinth  (Muscari  botryoides)  were 
afterwardsset  out  in  irregular  patches 
over  the  ground,  2,0f)0  being  used.  A 
haze  of  blue  was  thus  seen  beneath  the 
Daffodils  and  the  effect  was  truly 
exquisite.  The  photograph  repro- 
duced on  page  115,  taken  only  a  week 
after  the  severe  snowstorm  we 
experienced  last  April,  when  the 
buds  and  leaves  were  weighted  to 
the  ground,  shows  the  border  in  full 
bloom.  Ed.  Teschemachek. 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN 

ROSE    MARQUISE    DE 
SINETY. 


HYBRID    TEA    KOSB    MAKl,iniSE    DK    SINETY. 


F 


obviated  by  growing  the  Peas  in  9-inch  to 
10-inch  pots  or  tubs  well  away  from  the  general 
view,  and  then,  when  growth  is  sufficiently 
forward,  transferring  the  pots  bodily  into  their 
allotted  positions.  One  cannot  too  strongly  con- 
demn the  slipshod  way  in  which  the  generality  of 
Sweet  Peas  are  staked,  the  sticks  often  over- 
lapping the  plants  in  most  obtrusive  fashion.  If 
from  the  outset  the  plants  are  trained  to  climb 
up  outside  the  sticks,  and  when  full  growth  is 
attained  every  piece  not  covered  out  away,  the 
health  of  the  plants,  owing  to  their  being  kept 
more  open,  as  well  as  their  general  appearance, 
will  be  vastly  improved. 

In  situations  quite  narrow  and  ribbon-like, 
unless  a  continuous  Sweet  Pea  walk  is  required, 
it  is  wiser  to  rely  more  on  the  dwarf -growing  and 
easily  managed  Cupid  Peas,  which,  coming  into 
bloom  earlier  than  the  taller  varieties,  can  be 
made,  by  successive  pot  sowings,  to  do  duty  over 
a  lengthy  period.  Here,  again,  one  or  two  pretty 
combinations  present  themselves  to  the  mind, 
such  as  a  few  pots  of  white  Cupid  Sweet  Peas 
springing  from  a  setting  of  Nigella  Miss  Jekyll, 
or  a  mixture  of  Cupid  Countess  of  Radnor 
(lavender)  and  Primrose  Cupid,  or,  again,  some 
plants  of  Firefly  (scarlet)  half  veiled  in  sprays  of 
the  Cloud  Grass  (Agrostis  nebulosa).  Note  that 
seeds  of  Cupid  varieties,  which  only  grow  to 
about  12  inches  in  height,  should  be  set  com- 
paratively close  together. 

The  importance  of  planting  always  with  a  con- 
tinuous eye  to  the  general    colour  arrangement 


violent  contrasts  which  the  use  of  mixed  packets 
of  seed  must  of  necessity  bring. 

The  growing  of  the  tall  varieties  in  tubs.  &e. , 
for  the  decoration  of  terraces  or  house  walls  is 
not  suggested  for  general  adoption,  as  their  ten- 
dency is  to  unduly  dwarf  their  surroundings,  the 
Cupid  varieties  being  for  this  reason  much  more 
suitable.  If,  however,  economy  of  space  renders 
their  use  imperative,  every  possible  stretch  of 
greenery  should  be  utilised  as  a  background,  in  the 
same  way  as  the  dark  leaves  of  trees  and  shrubs 
must  be  pressed  into  service  in  the  garden  proper. 
If  it  be  possible  to  view  such  from  a  little  above 
their  level,  so  much  the  better,  as  the  full  beauty 
of  the  plants,  flowering  as  they  do  more  freely 
at  the  top,  can  be  the  more  easily  appreciated. 
Due  care  must  also  be  taken  to  ensure  that  the 
tubs  be  painted  some  good  quiet  colour  that  will 
not  clash  with  the  flowers.  Almost  anything 
will  do  rather  than  the  harsh  strong  green  which 
one  so  often  sees  used  on  Dahlia  stakes,  &e. ,  but 
quite  a  soft  shade  of  green  can  be  made  up  of  one 
part  black,  two  parts  light  chrome  and  four  parts 
white  lead,  a  recipe  copied  some  years  ago  from 
The  Garden. 

Now  for  a  selection  of  suitable  varieties,  free 
flowering  and  strong  growing.  For  a  hedge  : 
Blue.  Lord  Nelson  ;  light  blue.  Miss  Philbrick  ; 
white,  Dorothy  Kckford  ;  pale  yellow,  Mrs. 
Collier:  pale  pink,  Mrs.  Hardoastle  Sykes;  pink, 
Countess  Spencer  ;  salmon  pink,  Miss  Willmott : 
rose,  Marjorie  Willis ;  scarlet,  Queen  Alexandra ; 
crimson,    King    Edward    VII.  ;     orange,    Helen 


^  ROM  a  colour  point  of  view 
this  superb  Rose  is  the 
greatest  triumph  among 
Hybrid  Teas  that  we  have 
up  to  the  present  time. 
I  consider  it  the  che/ 
d''i'urre  of  that  eminently  successful  raiser, 
M.  Pernet  -  Ducher.  That  he  has  blended 
Soleil  d'Or  or  one  of  its  offspring  with  the 
Hybrid  Tea  seems  to  be  quite  evident,  although 
there  is  no  trace  of  Briar-like  growth  as  there 
is  in  the  Lyon  Rose.  Marquise  de  Sinety  is 
just, like  a  giant  Ma  Capucine  in  the  colouring 
of  its  quarter  and  half  open  flowers.  Doubtless 
many  readers  of  The  Garden  have  grown  Ma 
Capucine,  and  they  know  what  a  really  remark- 
able colour  is  to  be  found  in  its  buds.  Just 
imagine  this  colour  in  a  flower  the  size  of  the 
left-hand  example  of  the  illustration,  and  one  can 
have  a  fair  idea  of  the  beauty  of  this  exquisite 
Rose.  The  raiser  describes  the  colour  as  ochre 
carmine  or  Roman  ochre,  shaded  with  bright  rosy 
scarlet ;  but  how  inadequate  all  black  and  white 
description  is  of  a  flower  of  this  type  I  Even 
with  the  aid  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
colour  chart  I  doubt  if  one  could  faithfully 
describe  it. 

I  advise  all  who  do  not  possess  this  Rose  to 
obtain  it  at  once,  and  plant  a  whole  bed  of  it  if 
possible.  It  is  of  good  habit,  stiff  and  sturdy 
shoots  being  produced,  but  not  exuberantly 
vigorous.  I  never  expect  to  fiud  bushes  taller 
than  2  feet,  because  it  is  a  Rose  that  must  be 
well  pruned  to  keep  up  the  quality  of  bloom  and 
colouring.  The  thick,  leathery  leaves  are  of  a 
reddish  tinge,  giving  the  plant  a  most  unique 
appearance. 

Marquise  de  Sinety  has  one  special  failing, 
namely,  its  expanded  flowers  pale  considerably. 


March  6,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


116 


especially  in  bright  sunshine.  These  go  off  to  a 
sort  of  rich  buff  colour.  The  flowers  are  large, 
cup  shaped  and  moderately  double,  but  I 
wish  the  colour  of  the  quarter-open  flowers  was 
maintained  in  the  expanded  blooms ;  then, 
indeed,  we  should  have  a  rich  bedding  variety. 
It  cannot  be  an  exhibition  Rose,  but  must  be 
looked  upon  as  a  garden  variety  to  be  grown  as  a 
bush.  I  do  not  commend  it  for  a  standard, 
although  doubtless  with  three  or  four  years' 
growth  it  would  make  a  respectable  head  by 
skilful  pruning.  As  a  dwarf  standard  it  would 
be  a  great  success,  to  be  used  as  dot  plants  over 
a  bed  of  dwarfs  ;  but  to  obtain  these  one  should 
bud  some  stocks  at  home,  for  I  fear  it  will  be 
some  time  before  it  is  procurable  in  dwarf  standard 
form.  As  a  pot  Rose  under  cool  treatment 
Marquise  de  Sinety  will  be  a  useful  addition  to 
the  stiff-stemmed  Roses,  and  if  a  bush  or  two 
could  be  planted  out  under  glass  they  would 
doubtless  grow  into  very  fine  specimens.  There 
is  a  sweet  fragrance  in  its  blooms,  which  it  pro- 
bably inherits  from  that  delioiously  perfumed 
Rose  Soleil  d'Or. 

I  used  to  think  we  were  receiving  too  many 
of  the  apricot  ochre  and  orange-tinted  Roses  ; 
but  there  seems  to  be  such  a  distinctness  when 
one  has  grown  them  for  a  season  or  two  that  I 
have  been  impressed  with  their  individuality. 
There  is  a  variety  sent  out  in  1903  named  M. 
Paul  Lede,  which  even  now  is  not  so  much  grown 
as  its  merits  deserve  that  it  should  be.  Here  we 
find  a  marvellous  ochre  red  tint  which  never 
fails  to  catch  the  eye.  This  Rose  could  well  be 
used  to  plant  with  Marquise  de  Sinety  ;  the 
latter  was  introduced  in  190(>. 

Another  variety  of  the  same  raiser's  which  I 
believe  will  become  very  popular  is  Mrs.  A.  R. 
Waddell.  It  is  a  reddish  salmon,  but  so  far  I 
have  only  seen  it  under  glass.  It  struck  me  then 
as  being  moat  distinct  in  its  colouring.  P. 


direction  of  narrowing  the  existing  classes.  As 
far  as  exhibition  Roses  are  ooneerned  I  am 
entirely  ^ith  him.  At  the  present  day  the 
exhibition  boxes  in  the  general  sections  are 
dominated  by  the  Hybrid  Tea.  In  box  after 
box  we  see  the  proportion  of  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
to  the  number  of  blooms  in  the  box  scarcely 
greater  than  that  of  the  Teas.  If  this  tendency 
increases,  we  may  find  before  long  that,  in  order 
to  see  a  good  Hybrid  Perpetual,  we  shall  have  to 
wait  for  the  Scotchmen  in  the  autumn.  We  now 
have  a  general  section  and  a  section  for  Teas. 
Why  should  we  not  try  the  experiment  of  a  few 
classes  for  Hybrid  Perpetuals  ? 

But  leaving  the  exhibitors  of  Roses  in  boxes, 
there  are  also  exhibitors  of  another  gradually 
increasing  class — those  who  exhibit  decorative  or 
garden  Roses.  I  cannot  help  thinking  that  in 
writing  their  articles  on  this  subject  Mr.  Pem- 
berton  had,  and  Mr.  Molyneux  had  not,  these 
exhibitors  in  mind.  At  all  events,  in  dealing 
with  these  classes  I  part  company  from  Mr. 
Molyneux.  What  we  want  here  is  not  restric- 
tion, but  expansion. 

The  rule  hitherto  obtaining,  under  which  a 
Rose  is  admissible  in  the  decorative  classes,  is 
that  it  must  not  be  found  in  the  exhibition  lists, 
while  in  the  classes  for  garden  Roses  all  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas  are  excluded, 
except  singles.  Both  these  rales  are  unsatis- 
factory. 

There  are  some  Roses  which,  though  capable  of 
being  brought  up  to  exhibition  size,  attain  their 
greatest  perfection,  at  least  in  my  opinion,  both 
in  the  garden  and  on  the  bench,  when  the  flowers 
are  smaller  and  more  blooms  are  allowed  on  the 
plant  than  can  be  the  case  where  flowers  of 
exhibition  size  are  required.  Antoine  Rivoire 
is   such    a   Rose.       It  is  eminently  adapted  for 


THE    CLASSIFICATION    OF 
PERPETUAL-FLOWERING    ROSES. 

To  all  who  have  the  welfare  of  the  National 
Rose  Society  at  heart — and  they  now  number 
thousands — the  articles  by  Mr.  Pemberton  and 
Mr.  H.  E.  Molyneux  in  your  issues  of  .January  9 
and  February  1.3  of  this  year  should  be  of  con- 
siderable interest.  The  society  comes  before 
the  public  most  prominently  in  its  exhibitions, 
and  if  it  is  to  improve  its  position,  it  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  that  it  should  not  only 
advance,  but  advance  on  the  right  lines. 

Among  amateurs,  at  all  events,  the  most 
numerous  class  of  exhibitors  will  consist,  for 
some  time  to  come,  of  those  who  show  exhibition 
Roses  in  boxes.  No  other  method  of  exhibiting 
Roses  has  yet  been  devised  which  presents  equal 
facilities  for  arrangement  and  carriage.  For 
exhibitors  of  this  class  the  question  should  really 
present  few  difficulties.  They  have  simply  to 
follow  the  classification  adopted  from  time  to 
time  by  the  committee  of  the  society  and  issued 
in  their  official  catalogue  and  publications  ; 
while  in  the  few  cases  where  any  Rose  does  not 
appear  in  these  lists,  the  raiser's  description 
should  be  followed,  as  in  practice  is  now  done. 

This  official  classification  is  doubtless  arbi- 
trary, and  must  remain  so.  Probably  the 
present  classification  would  stand  revision.  We 
are  told  that  a  new  official  catalogue  will  have 
to  be  issued  in  the  near  future,  and  this  will 
afford  an  opportunity  of  recasting  the  present 
classification.  My  own  opinion  is  that,  when 
this  work  is  undertaken,  the  committee  which 
has  the  work  in  hand  might  properly  discard 
all  attempts  to  trace  the  parentage  of  the 
varieties,  and  confine  its  attention  exclusively 
to  the  character  of  the  Rose  as  an  exhibition 
flower.  However  this  may  be,  the  classification 
is  selected  by  the  society,  and  must  be  followed 
at  the  risk  of  disqualification. 

Mr.  Molyneux  suggests  that  revision  of 
the  present  schedules  should  take  place  in  the 


though  it  makes  a  beautiful  companion  to  W.  A. 
Richardson,  Crimson  Rambler,  Aimee  Vibert 
and  the  like  in  classes  where  we  look  for  beauty 
of  colour,  freshness  and  tasteful  arrangement 
rather  than  perfection  of  form  in  the  individual 
flower. 

From  this  point  of  view  I  think  the  class 
introduced  for  the  first  time  into  last  year's 
schedule  for  Roses  of  any  variety  arranged  to 
show  the  foliage,  habit  of  growth  and  decorative 
value  of  the  Rose  displayed,  should  prove  a  step 
in  the  right  direction,  and  when  better  known  it 
should  become  popular.  It  will  be  noticed  that 
I  have  drawn  a  distinction  between  decorative 
and  garden  Roses.  In  my  opinion  there  should 
be  such  a  distinction.  I  should  like  to  see  the 
decorative  classes  dissected  to  embrace  exhibits 
where  beauty  of  form,  freshness  and  taste  in 
arrangement  were  the  principal  points  for  con- 
sideration with  the  judges,  mere  size  of  indi- 
vidual blooms,  except  where  wanted  for  a 
particular  effect,  being  treated  rather  as  a  defect 
than  a  merit ;  while  in  the  garden  Roses  perfec- 
tion of  form  should  not  be  looked  for,  and  should 
be  replaced  by  qualities  such  as  lightness  and 
brilliance  of  colour.  In  both  cases  I  should  like 
to  see  a  large  discretion  as  to  varieties  left  with 
the  exhibitor.  If  necessary  special  lists  for  these 
classes  might  be  settled.  My  point  is  that  a 
Rose  suitable  for  these  classes  should  not  be 
barred  merely  because  it  is  also  capable  of  being 
shown  as  an  exhibition  variety.  In  distin- 
guishing these  classes  (decorative  and  garden 
Roses)  I  think  I  should  find  support  from  Mr. 
Pemberton,  but  I  feel  a  difficulty  in  admitting 
separate  classes  for  bedding  Roses  in  the  way  he 
suggests.  We  have  to  remember  that  in  framing 
a  schedule  we  are  legislating  for  the  show 
bench  and  not  (save  indirectly)   for  the  garden. 


DAFFODILS   MASSED   IN   MB.  TBSOHBMACHER'S   CARDBN,  WITH  BLUB  MUSi  AKi   AS   A   i  ARPET. 


showing  as  a  decorative  Rose,  but  is  excluded 
because  it  has  been  absorbed  into  the  exhibition 
lists.  This  is  of  little  advantage  to  anyone.  The 
Rose  finds  no  place  in  Mr.  Mawley's  list  of 
sixty-seven  show  Roses,  so  can  be  but  seldom 
seen  in  a  box  ;  yet  it  cannot  be  shown  in  a 
decorative  class.  Another  example  from  among 
the  Teas  is  Mme.  .Jean  Dupuis,  which  can  be 
grown  as  a  beautiful  decorative  Rose.  Again, 
in  the  garden  Roses  we  cannot  show  the  Tea 
Rambler.  This  Rose  is  classed  as  a  Hybrid  Tea, 
so    it  is    excluded   from    the  garden  varieties, 


and  however  valuable  a  class  for  bedding  Roses 
may  be  in  the  garden,  these  Roses  may  properly 
find  a  place  on  the  show  bench  either  as  exhi- 
bition Roses  proper  or  among  decorative  or 
garden  varieties.  I  would,  however,  suggest 
this  distinction  :  that  in  some  classes  the  atten- 
tion of  the  judges  should  be  directed  to  the 
exhibit  as  a  whole,  while  in  others  the  varieties 
should  be  directed  to  be  shown  in  separate  vases 
or  stands  and  the  judges  requested  to  treat  each 
vase  or  stand  as  a  separate  unit. 

Potter's  Bar.  H.  R.  Darlington. 


116 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  6,  1909. 


GoiRT>ENING     FOR     BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 


F 


mODths. 
florum) 


LOWER  GARDEN.— Climbing  plants 
that  are    growing  on  walla  will  pro- 
bably need  attention  in   the   way   of 
pruning    and     nailing,    although     in 
many  instances  this  work  will  doubt- 
less have  been  done  during  the  winter 
The  Winter  .Jasmine  (.Jasminum  nudi- 
has    now    finished    flowering,   and   the 
growths  may  be 
shortened  back 

Por  thinned  out 
as  desired.  All 
climbing  plants 
or  those  trained 
as  such,  and 
which  natur- 
ally flower  in 
the  spring 
months,  should 
not  be  pruned 
until  after  the 
flowers  have 
faded  ;  but 
those  that 
flower  in  late 
summer  and 
autumn  may  be 
dealt  with  now. 
It  occasionally 
happens  that  a 
elimberplanted 
in  an  angle 
formed  by  two 
walls  fails  to 
get  any  appre- 
ciable amount 
of  rain,  even 
during  the 
winter  months: 
consequently 
the  soil  will 
need  a thorough 
soaking  with 
water.  This 
1  —TUB  iLi.usTKATKiN  O.N  THK  LEFT     mav   not   Seem 

KEPRESENTS  THE  "STOCK  "  ANI.        possible  at  this 
THAT     ON       THE       RIUHT      THE        h""""""""  ""   ""■" 

"SCION."    THE  SCION   IS  THE     season,    but    a 

GROWTH  THAT  IS    GRAFTED  ON        day  Or  tWO  agO, 

when  dealing 
withaJapanese 
Honeysuckle,  I  found  the  soil,  with  the  exception 
of  about  2  inches  on  the  surface,  was  as  dry  as  dust. 
Sweet  Peas,  if  not  already  sown,  should  be  got 
in  without  delay.  Instructions  for  their  sowing 
have  so  often  been  given  in  The  Garden  that  it 
is  not  necessary  to  do  more  than  emphasise  a 
few  salient  points  here.  Sow  thinly  and  thin 
early  ;  damp  the  seeds  and  roll  them  in  red  lead 
to  prevent  mice  stealing  them  ;  string  black 
cotton  over  the  rows  or  clumps  as  soon  as  sowing 
is  done,  else  birds  will  nip  off  the  young  shoots 
almost  before  they  are  seen  by  the  human  eye  ; 
and  sow  2  inches  deep,  as  Sweet  Peas  do  best 
when  sown  thus  deeply  according  to  their  size. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Where  a  warm  border  at 
the  foot  of  a  south  wall  is  available  for  them,  a 
planting  of  an  early  Potato  may  be  made  therein. 
Choose  a  short-topped  variety  and  plant  in  rows 
IS  inches  to  18  inches  apart  and  place  the  sets 
10  inches  asunder  in  the  rows.  A  further  sowing 
of  Broad  Beans,  to  follow  the  earliest  crop, 
should  be  made,  observing  the  directions  given 
in  a  previous  calendar.  Herbs,  such  as  Mint, 
Thyme  and  Sage,  may  now  be  propagated  by 
division.  The  two  first  named  easily  lend  them- 
selves to  this  method  of  increase,  and  young 
plants  always  give  the  best  returns.  In  the  ease 
of  Thyme  choose  the  vigorous  outside  portions, 


THE  STOCK. 


taking  care  that  each  has  some  roots.  With 
Mint  select  the  strongest  white  roots  for 
replanting.  Sage  does  not  need  dividing  so  fre- 
quently, and  usually  when  increase  is  desired  a 
small  branch  may  be  detached  with  a  root  or  two 
adhering,  and  which  will  be  suitable  for  planting. 
Where  a  large  number  of  plants  are  required,  it 
is  best  to  take  cuttings  made  from  the  young 
shoots,  planting  these  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  or 
slightly  heated  frame.  A  sowing  of  Parsley  may 
be  made  now  with  a  good  prospect  of  success. 

Oreenhouse  and  Frames. — Arum  Lilies  will  now 
be  pushing  up  their  flowers  freely,  and  conse- 
quently will  need  plenty  of  feeding  and  moisture. 
Weak  liquid  manure  may  be  given  twice  a  week, 
and  on  no  account  must  the  soil  be  allowed  to 
become  at  all  dry.  Arums  are  practically  bog 
plants  during  their  growing  and  flowering  season, 
and  this  should  be  firmly  borne  in  mind.  Hippe- 
astrums  or  Amaryllis  are  other  bulbous  plants 
that  will  be  pushing  flowers  now,  and  these  also 
are  benefited  by  frequent  waterings  with  weak 
liquid  manure.  Rooted  Chrysanthemum  cuttings 
must  be  given  plenty  of  air,  kept  quite  cool  and 
near  the  glass.  Plants  in  frames  generally  will 
need  more  air,  and  this  should  be  afforded  when- 
ever the  outside  conditions  will  permit  of  it  being 
given.  Keep  young  seedlings  near  the  glass 
and,  above  all,  be  very  careful  with  the  watering, 
otherwise  much  damage  in  the  form  of  damping 
off  will  occur. 

Fruit  Garden. — All  pruning  of  Gooseberries 
and  Currants  must  be  finished  ofi'  without  delay, 
as  buds  will  now  be  swelling  and,  in  the  case  of 
early  Gooseberries  in  warm  situations,  even 
bursting.  Bullfinches  will  be  troublesome  on 
Gooseberries  and  Plums,  and  I  have  not  yet 
found  an  effective  remedy  except  the  drastic  one 
of  shooting  the  pests,  which  I  very  much  regret, 
as  they  are  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all  our 
wild  birds.  However,  crops  must  be  protected 
in  some  way. 

Window  and  Room  Plants. — These  will  need 
rather  more  water  now  than  hitherto,  but  care 
must  still  be  exercised,  as  there  is  always  a 
tendency  to  over  rather  than  to  under  water 
these  plants.  All  foliage  must  be  kept  clean  by 
sponging,  or,  in  the  case  of  such  as  Araucaria 
exoelsa,  where  the  foliage  is  very  small  and 
intricate,  dust  and  other  deleterious  accumula- 
tions may  be  removed  by  vigorously  syringing 
them  with  weak  soapy  water  that  is  heated  to 
100°  Fahr.  The  plants  should  be  laid  on  their 
sides  for  this  purpose,  as  then  there  is  no  danger 
of  the  soil  becoming  soaked  with  the  soapy 
water.  Cacti  that  have  been  kept  dry  all  the 
winter  may  now  be  given  a  light  watering  with 
tepid  water,  and  allot  to  them  the  sunniest 
window  in  the  house.  H. 


GRAFTING   FRUIT   TREES. 

Gbafting  is  one  of  the  oldest  methods  of  propa- 
gating fruit  trees,  the  practice  having  been 
followed  for  hundreds  of  years  by  those  who 
desired  to  increase  their  stock  of  different  fruits. 
There  are  several  methods  of  grafting  fruit  trees, 
the  three  more  popular  methods  being  (a)  whip 
or  tongue  grafting  ;  (b)  crown  or  rind  grafting  : 
(c)  cleft  grafting.  Whip  grafting  is  usually 
carried  out  on  small  stocks,  rind  grafting  on 
older  trees  and  cleft  grafting  on  large  branches. 
There  is  also  grafting  by  approach  or  inarching, 
which  is  a  very  simple  method  ;  slice  grafting, 
as  well  as  side  grafting.  We  are  more  especially 
interested  in  the  three  methods  first  mentioned, 
as    they    are   more  generally  observed    by    the 


practical  man.  We  cannot  deal  with  the  three 
methods  in  the  present  instance,  and  propose, 
therefore,  to  explain  the  way  in  which  whip  or 
tongue  grafting  may  be  carried  out. 

Grafting  is  usually  performed  in  the  spring 
just  as  the  sap  is  about  to  rise.  In  order  to 
simplify  this  method  of  grafting  we  must,  first  of 
all,  explain  the  terms  used  in  connexion  there- 
with. For  instance,  the  plant  or  tree  on  which 
the  graft  is  to  be  made  is  generally  termed  the 
"  stock."  The  "  scion  "  is  that  portion  of  growth 
of  another  tree  that  it  is  desired  to  unite  to  the 
"stock"  aforementioned,  and  the  "stock"  and 
"scion"  should  be  as  nearly  as  possible  of  equal 
size. 

First  of  all,  we  desire  to  portray  how  the 
"stock  "  should  be  treated  previous  to  the  actual 
grafting.  In  Fig.  1  the  growth  on  the  left  of 
the  picture  shows  how  the  cut  should  be  made  in 
sloping  fashion,  inserting  the  knife — which  should 
be  a  strong  and  sharp  one — opposite  a  bud, 
making  the  cut  in  an  upward  direction  and 
finishing  off  about  half  an  inch  above  the  bud. 
The  upper  portion  of  the  "  stock  "  assists  to  give 
a  better  idea  how  the  cut  through  the  stem 
should  be  made.  The  growth  on  the  right  of  the 
picture  in  Fig.  1  should  represent  a  suitable 
"scion"  for  grafting  purposes.  To  further 
simplify  the  method  of  procedure  we  have 
endeavoured  to  illustrate  in  Fig.  2  how  both  the 
"  stock  "  and  "  scion  "  should  be  dealt  with. 
Note  on  the  left  of  the  picture  the  same  portion 
of  "stock"  as  represented  in  Fig.  1,  but  with 
this  difference  :  the  "stock"  is  sliced,  i.e.,  an 
upward  cut  is  made  at  its  apex  some  2  inches  to 
.3  inches  in  length  in  slanting  fashion,  to  correspond 
with  the  slanting  cut  downwards  of  the  "scion" 
it  is  proposeJ  to  unite  with  this  same  "stock." 


-ON  THE  LEFT  IS  SHOWN  HOW  THE  UPPER 
PART  OF  THE  STOCK  IS  SLICED  IN  AN  UP- 
WARD DIRECTION.  THE  CENTRAL  FIGURE 
REPRESENTS  THE  STOCK  "TONGUED,"  AND 
THE  FIGURE  ON  THE  RIGHT  SHOWS  THE 
SCION  TONGIED  PREPARATORY  TO  THE 
GRAFTING   PROCESS. 


March  6,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


117 


3.— THE  TONGUED  SCION  ADJUSTED 
IN  POSITION  IN  THE  TONGUED 
STOCK  PREVIOUS  TO  BEING  TIED 
WITH  RAFFIA.  NOTE  HOW 
EVENLY  THKV  ARE  PLACED 
TOGETHER. 


The  centre 
figure  in  the 
picture  serves 
to  illustrate  the 
man  ne  r  in 
which  the 
"  stock  "  is 
tongued.  A 
eloseinspeetion 
of  the  upper 
portion  of  the 
"  stock  "  will 
reveal  what  is 
known  as  a 
"tongue."  This 
is  made  by 
another  slant- 
ing cut,  but  in 
the  present  in- 
stance in  a 
downward 
direction,  at 
the  same  time 
inclining  in- 
wards. In  small 
stocks  noth- 
ing more  than 
a  simple  cut 
downwards  is 
necessary,  but 
in  older  and 
larger  "stocks" 
it  is  necessary 
to  remove  a 
piece  of  wood 
by  making  a 
vertical  cut 
from  the  top, 
and  in  this  way 
taking  out  a 
wedge-shaped  piece  of  wood.  The  "  scicns " 
of  larger  growth  need  to  be  treated  similarly 
in  order  that  they  shall  fit  into  each  other  better 
when  adjusted  in  position.  The  "scion" 
on  the  right  of  Fig.  '2  was  made  from  that 
seen  on  the  right  in  Fig.  1.  It  is  a  growth 
of  the  previous  year,  and  in  its  preparation 
a  slanting  cut  downwards  some  2  inches  to 
3  inches  long  was  made  to  correspond  with  the 
"stock  "  prepared  in  a  somewhat  similar  manner 
as  described  above.  The  cut  should  be  made 
about  an  eighth  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  depth. 
The  "scion"  is  then  "tongued,"  i.e.,  a  "tongue" 
is  made  by  cutting  upwards  in  a  slanting  direc- 
tion and  of  such  a  depth  that  the  "  tongue  "  will 
fit  in  the  cleft  made  in  the  "stock"  for  its 
reception.  The  "scion"  may  be  rather  less  in 
diameter  than  the  "  stock,"  but  the  "  tongue  " 
must  be  of  precisely  the  same  length. 

Fig.  3  shows  the  prepared  "scion"  with  the 
"tongue"  securely  adjusted  in  position  in  the 
cleft  of  the  "stock."  Careful  observation  reveals 
the  fact  how  neatly  they  agree  ;  at  least,  on  the 
one  side  on  which  the  graft  is  being  carried  into 
effect.  We  wish  before  proceeding  further  to 
emphasise  the  importance  of  making  the  cuts 
in  the  cleanest  and  neatest  fashion,  and  before 
entering  on  the  final  stage  of  the  work  to  Be 
quite  satisfied  the  "  scion "  is  properly  and 
securely  placed  in  position. 

Fig.  4  aptly  describes  the  closing  operations. 
Note  the  care  with  which  the  "  scion  "  has  been 
secured  to  the  "stock."  Both  "scion"  and 
' '  stock "  must  be  firmly  bound  together,  using 
either  matting  or  raffia  for  this  purpose.  We 
know  of  growers  who  do  not  hesitate  to  use 
twine  of  a  suitable  kind,  and  this  has  always 
answered  very  well.  It  is  important  to  remember 
that  the  pressure  of  the  binding  material  should 
be  equal  throughout. 

The  final  operation  is  portrayed  on  the 
right  of  Fig.  4.  Note  the  bulky  character 
of  the  graft  now  that  it  is  completed.  This  is 
quite  necessary,  and  is  carried  out  as  follows  : 
Cover  the  graft  and  binding  material  with  clay 
that  has  been  well  worked  with  the  fingers  to 
make  it  pliable  and  adhesive,  and  use  a  sufficient 


quantity  to  exclude  both  air  and  moisture  from 
the  union,  as  an  air-tight  state  of  affairs  is 
essential  to  success.  Instead  of  using  just 
ordinary  clay,  some  persons  make  up  the  following 
preparation  :  Take  12oz.  of  resin,  2oz.  of  lard, 
and  melt  over  a  slow  fire,  subsequently  adding 
2|oz.  of  alcohol  sp.  gr.  30°.  Before  adding  the  last 
mentioned  to  the  resin  and  lard  the  vessel  should 
be  removed  from  the  fire,  as  there  would  be  con- 
siderable risk  of  ignition  owing  to  its  inflammable 
nature.  Mix  well  and  turn  into  a  tin  of  some 
sort,  where  it  should  be  left  to  cool,  after  which 
it  may  be  used.  The  clay  should  be  main- 
tained in  a  somewhat  moist  condition  and  the 
prepared  mastio  covering  kept  in  an  equally 
effective  state.  When  the  "scion"  has  made 
some  6  inches  of  growth,  the  ligature  should  be 
loosened  and  a  stake  or  support  of  some  kind  or 
other  inserted  at  once.  See  that  both  "scion" 
and  "stock"  are  securely  tied  to  this  support, 
otherwise  boisterous  winds  may  arise  unex- 
pectedly and  undo  what  has  been  successfully 
accomplished  after  so  much  devotion  and 
patience. 

Generally  speaking  it  is  best  for  the  amateur 
to  purchase  his  fruit  trees  from  a  good  nursery- 
man who  makes  a  special  study  of  the  various 
stocks  and  the  effect  that  they  have  on  the 
varieties  grafted  thereon,  but  instances  are  sure 
to  crop  up  where  it  is  useful  to  know  how  graft- 
ing should  be  done.  D.  B.  C. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


The  days  are  lengthening  very  perceptibly  now, 
and  although  we  may  reasonably  expect  freedom 
from  severe  frosts,  we  may  not  escape  occasional 
frosty  weather,  accompanied  by  very  cold  east 
winds.  The  sap  will  soon  be  rising  and  causing 
the  buds  of  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  and  also 
border  plants,  to  grow,  and  we  must  hasten  on 
all  work  of  a  preparatory  character,  so  as  to  be 
able  to  attend  to  details  connected  with  the 
successful  management  of  the  town  garden  when 
the  time  comes  for  prompt  action.  During  the 
autumn  and  winter  it  is  possible  to  put  off  some 
work  from  day  to  day  for  a  time  without  any 
harm  being  done,  but  in  spring  any  lengthy 
delay  may  prove  decidedly  harmful. 

Pruning  Deciduous  Shrubs. — The  judicious 
pruning  of  deciduous  (and  also  evergreen)  shrubs 
not  only  makes  them  more  beautiful  to  look  at, 
but  strengthens  them  considerably,  too.  I  urge 
judicious  pruning,  as  any  careless  cutting  away 
of  branches  may  spoil  the  specimens  altogether, 
and  a  formal  trimming  of  all  shoots  robs  them  of 
their  true  character.  Use  the  pruning  knife, 
pruning  scissors  and  saw  for  the  carrying  out  of 
this  work  and  not  the  hedge-shears.  Cut  oft"  the 
shoots  and  branches,  but  do  not  mutilate  the 
leaves — when  dealing  with  evergreens — and 
avoid  making  any  jagged  cuts.  After  sawing  off 
a  thick  branch,  make  the  end  of  the  stump  quite 
smooth  with  a  sharp  knife.  In  all  cases  the 
branches  must  be  cut  off  several  inches  inwards 
from  the  outer  line  of  the  shrub  ;  if  the  branch 
be  severed  level  with  the  small  outside  shoots, 
the  new  ones,  when  they  £;row  from  the  end  of 
the  stump,  would  form  a  protruding  cluster  of 
shoots.  Remove  a  few  branches  from  different 
parts  of  the  bush  as  required,  so  as  to  improve 
its  form  and  yet  retain  the  natural  character  of 
each  kind  dealt  with.  Shrubs  that  flower  on 
last  year's  wood  should  not  be  pruned  until  after 
they  have  blossomed. 

Pansies. — These  are  very  suitable  plants  for 
the  filling  of  borders  both  in  spring  and  summer 
in  the  town  garden.  Many  years  ago  I  was  much 
impressed  by  the  beauty  of  a  number  of  beds 
filled  with  Pansies  in  a  town  garden  where  the 
soil  was  almost  pure  sand.  To  be  successful  it 
is  necessary  to  make  the  soil  fairly  rich  with 
well-rotted  manure  in  any  case,  that  is,  where 
the  soil  is  of  average  good  quality,  but  especially 


is  it  needful  when  the  rooting  medium  is  very 
sandy.  Haying  obtained  good  plants  and  got 
them  established,  watering,  top-dressing  and  the 
removal  of  all  faded  flowers  regularly  every  week 
must  be  work  that  is  never  neglected.  Plants 
overladen  with  seed-pods  quickly  cease  to  pro- 
duce new  flower-buds  ;  but  when  the  faded 
flowers  are  removed  the  plants  strive  to  bear 
fresh  ones,  and  so  they  gladden  our  hearts  with 
their  wealth  of  blossom  during  the  whole  of  the 
summer  season.  Autumn-raised  plants  must 
now  be  carefully  examined.  Those  growing  in 
the  beds  in  which  they  are  to  blossom  ought  to 
be  top-dressed  with  a  mixture  of  fibrous  loam, 
leaf-soil  and  well-rotted  manure.  This  must  be 
made  up  as  follows  :  Loam,  two  parts  ;  leaf -soil, 
one  part ;  and  manure,  one  part.  The  latter 
ingredient  must  be  passed  through  a  1-ineh  mesh 
sieve  and  then  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  other 
parts.  Very  carefully  put  on  the  top-dressing 
about  2  inches  deep  among  the  plants.  Extra 
fine  flowers  will  be  the  result  of  such  treatment. 
Plants  in  nursery  beds  must  also  be  examined, 
the  soil  being  lightly  stirred  with  a  stick  on  the 
surface,  and  any  specimens  showing  a  straggling 
habit  must  be  pulled  up  and'  discarded,  as  all 
such  generally  bear  small,  insignificant  flowers. 

Violets. — As  a  rule  old  plants  in  clumps  are 
retained  from  year  to  year,  though  they  do  not 
bear  large  flowers  similar  to  those  borne  by 
young  layers ;  but  the  old  specimens  may  be 
strengthened  very  much  by  a  top-dressing  of 
loam  and  manure,  or  loam  only.  One  may  often 
see  the  surface  roots  of  old  Violet  plants  quite 
exposed.  Put  on  the  prepared  top-dressing  at 
once,   well  working  in  the  compost   aniong  the 


4- — ON  THE  LEFT  IS  THE  GRAFT  SECURELY 
TIED,  AND  O.V  THE  RIGHT  THE  SAME 
GRAFT  IS  COVERED  WITH  CLAY  TO  MAKE 
IT  AIR-TIGHT. 

roots  without  injuring  the  leaves,  and  immedi- 
ately afterwards  give  a  thorough  watering 
through  a  fine-rosed  watering-can  to  settle  the 
n3w  soil  in  position. 

The  Lawn. — There  are  often  occasions  now 
when  the  lawn  is  comparatively  dry  on  the 
surface.  Take  the  first  opportunity  to  get  all 
worm-casts  scattered  with  the  besom,  and  then 
roll  thoroughly  ;  the  dry  soil  will  not  adhere  to 
the  roller,  but  the  latter  will  do  a  great  deal  of 
good.  Avon. 


118 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  6,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

PROPAGATING.  —  Where  Alternan- 
theras  and  similar  plants  are  need  in 
large  quantities  for  carpet  bedding, 
propagation  is  a  matter  of  impor- 
tance. From  now  onwards  the  old 
plants  should  be  kept  in  a  warm 
temperature  for  the  production  of  quantities  of 
young  cuttings.  These,  if  dibbled  thickly  in 
pots  or  shallow  boxes  filled  with  a  sandy  com- 
post, well  watered  and  placed  in  a  propagating 
frame,  and  kept  close  and  shaded  from  the  bright 
sun,  will  quickly  emit  roots  and  produce  more 
cuttings.  Iresine,  Lobelia,  Coleus,  Heliotrope, 
Verbena  and  several  other  plants  for  bedding 
purposes  should  receive  every  attention,  and  a 
suttioient  number  of  cuttings  should  be  rooted  so 
that  nice  sturdy  plants  may  be  obtained  by  the 
time  they  are  required. 

Dahlia  Rootn.  — These  may  be  placed  in  heat  to 
start  them  into  growth  for  the  production  of 
cuttings.  When  propagating  use  short  stubby 
growths,  and  pull  them  otf  with  a  bit  of  the 
parent  tuber  attached.  Place  the  cutting  pots 
in  a  warm  bottom-heat,  and  pot  the  young  plants 
into  4-ineh  pots  when  well  rooted.  Seed  may  also 
be  sown  of  both  the  single  and  double  varieties. 
The  former  are  very  useful  for  garden  decoration. 
Cannas  resting  may  now  be  cleaned  and  placed 
in  boxes  and  stood  in  a  temperature  of  .^S".  Let 
the  roots  be  well  watered  to  settle  the  soil,  after 
which  little  more  will  be  required  for  some  time. 

Hakdy  Fruits. 

Pruning  and  Staking  of  all  newly  planted 
fruit  trees  should  now  be  done.  If  the  soil  is  in 
a  rather  dry  state,  trample  moderately  firmly 
over  and  about  the  roots.  Use  stout  stakes  for 
standards,  and  tie  them  so  that  there  is  no  injury 
done  to  the  bark.  Prune  the  heads  more  or  less 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  growths,  and 
always  cut  back  to  a  good  bud  pointing  in  the 
direction  the  following  growth  is  required  to 
tike  to  form  the  future  head  of  the  tree.  All 
newly  planted  trees  I  usually  cut  back  to  about 
9  inches  to  12  inches. 

Protecting  Fruit  Trees.  — See  that  all  protect- 
ing material  is  in  readiness  for  use.  Peach  trees 
we  usually  protect  with  two  or  three  thicknesses 
of  fish-netting,  and  in  very  severe  frosts  place 
small  pieces  of  Portugal  Laurel  among  the 
branches  ;  in  this  way  we  usually  obtain  a  good 
crop.  In  some  seasons  very  little  protection  is 
needed,  but  as  the  weather  is  so  very  uncertain 
it  is  best  to  be  prepared.  A  more  elaborate 
system  is  that  of  blinds,  these  being  raised  or 
lowered  according  to  the  weather. 
Vegetable  G.iRDBN. 

Onionn. — The  main  crop  of  Onions  should  be 
sown  when  the  land  is  in  suitable  condition. 
Let  the  soil  be  rich  and  firm  and  afford  a  heavy 
dressing  of  soot  previous  to  drawing  the  drills 
1  foot  apart  and  1  inch  deep.  Do  not  sow  the 
seed  thickly  if  new  and  good,  but  if  there  be 
a  doubt  as  to  its  germinating  powers  sow  more. 

Parsnips. — These  may  also  be  sown  when  the 
soil  is  suitable.  The  land  for  these  should  be 
very  deeply  worked  and  the  drills  for  the  seed 
made  1  inch  deep  and  1.5  inches  apart. 

Cilery.  — Sow  seeds  of  a  good  early  white,  and 
of  other  varieties  for  later  use.  In  preparing 
pans  or  pots,  the  drainage  should  be  good,  and 
for  all  seed  the  soil  should  be  pressed  rather 
firm.  Stand  the  pans  in  a  newly  started  vinery 
and  cover  them  with  glass  or  paper  until  the 
young  seedlings  appear,  when  it  should  be 
gradually  removed.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE   NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  L^epartment. 

Early  Vinery. — With  lengthening  days  and 
increasing  solar  heat  growth  daily  becomes  more 
rapid,  consequently  greater  and  more  frequent 
attention  must  be  given  to  regulating,  tying  and 
stopping  the  shoots  as  they  extend  and  fill  the 
hitherto  vacant  parts  of  the  trellis.  Following 
upon  this,  lateral  shoots  as  a  rule  start  more 
freely,  and  these  in  turn  are  best  stopped  imrae 
diately  above  the  nearest  leaf  to  the  base,  unless 
from  any  cause  the  principal  foliage  of  the  Vine 
has  been  injured,  when  greater  length  may  with 
advantage  be  left.  Until  now  growth  has  been 
comparatively  alow,  and  weekly  attention  to 
the  foliage  has  been  sufficient  ;  but  in  future 
a  shorter  interval  would  be  better.  In  the 
succession  house,  as  soon  as  a  few  leaves  expand 
along  the  Vines,  disbudding  may  be  performed, 
dispensing  first  with  misplaced  and  superfluous 
buds  until  two  only  are  left,  the  final  selection  of 
these  being  made  when  bunches  are  prominent. 
Late  houses  containing  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 
Gros  Colmar,  Lady  Downea  and  Alicante,  which, 
to  do  them  justice,  require  a  long  season  of 
growth,  should  now  be  put  in  order  for  starting 
by  having  all  cleansing  finished  and  the  borders 
manured  if  necessary  and  well  watered. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —  Surplus  shoots 
having  been  removed  from  the  branches  in  the 
earliest  house,  those  reserved  may  be  secured  to 
the  trellis,  care  being  taken  that  only  the 
number  required  to  furnish  the  trees  are  retained. 
Thinning  the  crop  should  be  carried  out  at 
intervals,  and  more  freely  than  usual,  as,  owing 
to  the  brilliant  weather  of  last  summer,  the 
wood  became  well  ripened,  hence  premature 
casting  of  the  fruit  from  the  trees  is  this  season 
improbable.  As  the  flowers  fade  in  the  succes- 
sion houses,  the  trees  should  be  forcibly  syringed 
with  tepid  water  to  clear  away  the  decaying 
flower-petals,  and  if  aphides  have  obtained  a 
footing,  loz.  of  (iishurst  Compound  dissolved 
and  added  to  each  gallon  of  liquid  will  extermi- 
nate them.  Disbudding  should  follow  in  due 
course,  or  before  the  shoots  crowd  each  other. 
With  young  trees  the  reserved  shoots  should 
start  from  the  upper  side  of  the  branches, 
but  with  aged  trees  the  main  endeavour  is  to 
keep  every  part  furnished  with  bearing  wood, 
irrespective  of  its  starting-point. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Potatoes. — The  planting  of  these  for  an  early 
supply  may  now  be  commenced  in  most  localities 
whenever  soil  and  weather  are  favourable.  For 
a  first  crop  Sharpe's  Victor,  Duke  of  York  and 
Ringleader  are  reliable  ;  while  Midlothian  Early 
and  Sir  John  Llewelyn  are  excellent  for  succes- 
sion. A  south  aspect  at  the  foot  of  a  wall  or 
hedge  is  best  for  an  early  crop.  The  ground, 
having  been  manured  and  dug,  may  be  laid  out 
with  drills  at  2  feet  apart,  and  the  tubers 
(already  sprouted)  be  placed  therein  at  9  inches 
apart  and  well  covered  with  soil.  The  tubers 
sometimes  fare  badly  in  slug-infested  ground  ; 
but  soot,  lime  or  burnt  ash  sprinkled  within  the 
drills  and  over  the  entire  surface  when  all  is 
finished  are  helpful  in  keeping  these  at  bay. 

Parsnips  and  Onions.  — Both  of  these  require 
a  long  season,  and  seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon 
as  the  ground  is  dry  and  in  good  working  order. 
A  difficulty  often  arises  in  growing  the  first- 
named  crop  owing  to  grubs  attacking  the  roots. 
Holes  made  with  a  pointed  bar  and  filled  with 
fresh  soil  and  sand,  upon  which,  on  being  made 
firm,  the  seeds  are  sown,  is  a  pretty  sure  remedy. 
Onions  thrive  best  and  form  the  soundest  bulbs 
upon  firm  ground.  After  being  manured,  dug 
and  levelled,  drills  may  be  drawn  1  foot  apart 
and  the  seeds  sown  therein  thinly  and  evenly. 
Soot  should  if  possible  be  applied  and  the  surface 
made  firm  and  even.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Galloway  Hoxise,  Garlieston,  Wigloiimahire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Cymbidium  woodhamsianum  Orohidhurst 
\'ariety. — This  is  a  very  bright  and  attractive 
variety,  the  sepals  and  petals  being  pale  green, 
the  labellum  creamy  white,  with  a  bright  car- 
mine band  nearly,  but  not  quite,  edging  it.  a 
thin  creamy  margin  being  present.  The  flowers 
are  large  and  the  plant  is  evidently  very  robust. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Armstrong  and  Brown,  Tun- 
bridge  Wells.     Award  of  merit. 

Lii'tio-Cattleya  Pizarro  Westonhirt  variety. — 
This  is  a  very  rich  and  refined  Orchid,  the  large 
flower  being  of  exceptionally  good  colour.  The 
sepals  and  petals  are  of  a  bright  rosy  mauve 
colour,  the  latter  being  very  broad  and  somewhat 
twisted.  The  labellum  is  very  large  and  heavily 
fringed,  the  throat  being  rich  golden  yellow, 
suffused  with  carmine,  a  nearly  half-inoh-wide 
margin  of  the  bright  mauve  colour  finishing  off 
this  organ.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Hol- 
ford,  CLE.,  C.V.O.,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire. 
First-class  certificate. 

Cattleya  Triawi-  Mooreana. — A  very  beautiful 
variety  of  the  well-known  C.  Trianae.  The  sepals 
are  rather  narrow  and  almost  lanceolate  in  shape, 
these  being  nearly  obscured  by  the  huge,  slightly 
reflexing  petals,  the  colour  of  both  being  rosy 
mauve.  The  labellum  is  of  rich  velvety  carmine, 
with  a  zone  of  rich  yellow  placed  within  the 
throat,  the  outside  of  the  labellum  being  mauve, 
suffused  with  carmine.  Shown  by  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Holford.     First-class  certificate. 

Dcndrobiuvi  Lady  Golman. — This  is  a  very 
large-flowered  member  of  this  family-.  The  large 
sepals  and  petals  are  creamy  white  at  the  base, 
this  running  off  into  bright  mauve  at  the  apices. 
The  labellum  is  large  and  well  shaped,  a  large 
zone  of  deep  rich  dull  carmine  extending  well  into 
the  base.  Surrounding  this  is  a  well-defined 
band  of  cream,  and  at  the  base  is  a  broad  edging 
of  bright  mauve  or  rosy  pink.  Shown  by  Sir 
Jeremiah  Colman,  Bart.,  Gatton  Park.  Award 
of  merit. 

Cynoches  peruvianum  Tracey's  cariety.  — A  very 
graceful  and  pretty  variety.  The  small  greenish 
yellow  flowers  are  packed  in  dense,  pendulous 
racemes,  the  sepals  and  petals  being  very  freely 
dotted  with  small  brownish  crimson  dots.  The 
long,  narrow  labellum  is  of  a  reddish  brown  hue, 
and  the  star-like  white  column  is  a  conspicuous 
feature.  Shown  by  Mr.  H.  A.  Tracey,  Twicken- 
ham.    Award  of  merit. 

Detulrobiumatro-hrymerianum. — A  very  curious 
Dendrobium  with  pale  green  sepals  and  petals, 
dotted  on  the  outside  with  small  dull  carmine 
spots.  The  recurved  labellum  is  of  the  same 
colour  as  the  other  segments,  but  is  also  freely 
marked  on  the  inside  with  the  spots  already  men- 
tioned. Shown  by  R.  Thwaites,  Esq.  Certifi- 
cate of  appreciation. 

Cypripedium  Bridgei  nuignificum. — This  is  a 
very  handsome  member  of  the  mottled  or  netted 
leaved  section,  although  this  feature  is  not  very 
conspicuous.  The  labellum  is  extra  large  and 
sloped  slightly  forward,  the  green  ground  colour 
being  almost  obscured  by  the  dark  crimson  colour 
except  at  the  margins,  which  remain  pale  green. 
The  petals  are  large,  oar-shaped  and  very 
slightly  twisted,  the  colour  being  dull  carmine 
or  almost  crimson,  suffused  with  green,  this  latter 
colour,  dotted  crimson,  predominating  at  the 
base.  The  labellum  is  long,  light  crimson  to- 
wards the  mouth  and  pale  green  at  the  base. 
Shown  by  G.  F.  Moore,  Esq.,  Chardwar. 
Award  of  merit. 

Odontioda  lutelea. — This  is  a  very  beautiful 
addition  to  this  bi-generic  family,  the  large 
flowers  being  of  superb  form.  The  petals,  sepals 
and  labellum  are  of  a  bright  orange  scarlet  hue, 
these  being  marbled  with  dull  cream.  The  plant 
shown  had  nine  fully  opened  flowers  and  three 
buds.     First-class  certificate. 

Odontioda  keighleyense.  —  The  brightest- 
coloured  Odontioda  yet  shown  ;  but  the  form  of 
the  flowers  is  not  up  to  the  average,  the  sepals 
and  petals  being  rather  narrow  and  of  irregular 


March  6,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


119 


outline.  The  colour  is  bright  scarlet  with  small 
pale  yellow  markings.  Award  of  merit.  Both 
the  foregoing  were  shown  by  Messrs.  Charles  worth 
and  Co.,  Hay  ward's  Heath. 

Free^ia  Rose  Queen. — This  is  a  useful  addition 
to  a  beautiful  and  elegant  race  of  '  flowering 
plants,  aud,  we  believe,  darker  in  colour  than  any 
of  the  coloured  forms  that  have  preceded  it.  It 
is  of  rosy  purple  hue — so  far,  indeed,  as  the 
true  colour  could  be  seen  on  a  day  of  intense  fog 
— paler  at  the  base  of  the  tube,  where  there  is 
also  a  suspicion  of  yellow  or  orange.  The  variety 
is  pleasingly  scented,  aud  there  is  no  doubt  that, 
when  seen  in  a  more  established  condition,  it 
will  command  attention.  Exhibited  by  Messrs. 
Barr  and  Sons,  Co  vent  Garden.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  2.Srd  ult. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


ANSWERS 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDEliTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
^^  Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
Garden,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  bicsiness  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHER. 
The  Tiame  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Raising:  annuals  {Subtirb).  —  All  the 
annuals  that  you  name,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Zinnia,  will  do  best,  of  course,  where  the  plants 
are  intended  to  grow,  or,  perhaps,  we  should 
say  that  there  is  no  need  to  raise  them  in  frames. 
The  Zinnias  are  best  raised  in  a  warm  frame, 
then  hardened  off  and  planted  out  in  the  usual 
way.  Please  see  correspondence  columns  in  last 
week's  issue  for  Capid  Sweet  Peas. 

Plants  fOP  a  bed  {James  Lyons).— We 
think  your  proposed  arrangement  will  do  quite 
well,  and  for  a  white-flowered  plant  we  suggest 
the  very  free-flosvering  Alyssum  maritimum, 
seeds  of  which  could  be  sown  where  intended  to 
flower,  or  the  plants  could  be  transplanted. 
This  plant  is  rarely  more  than  4  inches  to 
6  inches  high  and  blooms  profusely.  Achillea 
umbellata  and  A.  Clavennse  are  silvery  leaved 
plants  that  should  answer  if  you  require  some- 
thing of  a  more  permanent  character. 

Border  Carnations  {Rua  in  Urbe).— 
We  agree  with  you  that  the  border  Carnation  is 
indeed  a  charming  flower  and  well  worth  any 
extra  care  involved  in  its  culture.  To  succeed 
with  this  flower  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  good  and 
well-drained  soil.  If  you  desire  to  make  another 
attempt,  commence  with  a  small  circular  bed, 
throw  out  all  the  old  soil  to  a  depth  of  2  feet, 
fork  up  the  bottom,  then  put  in  6  inches  of 
broken  bricks,  stones,  clinkers  or  similar  rubble. 
Next  obtain  a  few  barrow-loads  of  good  loam  and 
mix  with  it,  at  the  rate  of  one  part  to  three,  some 
good  one  year  old  manure,  a  peck  or  two  of  road 
scrapings  or  sand  and  a  peck  of  charcoal  broken 
up  small.  Mix  all  well  together  and  fill  in  the 
bed,  allowing  it  to  rise  fully  6  inches  above  the 
ground  level.  The  sooner  the  work  is  done  the 
better.  Procure  pot-grown  plants  and  plant  out 
during  March,  The  best  time  to  plant  is  Octo- 
ber, as  the  plants  will  then  yield  a  lot  of  "  grass," 
as  the  shoots  are  termed,  which  are  layered  for 
replanting  the  bed  again  and  for  planting  other 


beds.  The  layering  process  is  very  simple.  We 
shall  doubtless  have  some  articles  dealing  with 
this  and  other  matters  relating  to  Carnations 
during  the  season.  If  you  have  a  heated  green- 
house, seedling  Carnations  could  be  raised,  and 
they  give  the  best  results,  for  they  are  more 
robust  and  less  particular  as  to  soil.  It  is 
possible  to  have  plants  of  seedlings  develop  into 
large  plants,  carrying  as  many  as  100  to  200 
blooms  each,  and  as  the  seedlings  will  produce 
from  70  per  cent,  to  80  per  cent,  of  double 
varieties,  it  will  be  seen  that  an  investment  in  a 
packet  of  good  seed  is  a  profitable  one.  Some 
good  fancy  Carnations  are  Hidalgo,  Yolande, 
Brodick,  Monarch,  Zingara  and  Mrs.  G.  A. 
Reynolds  ;  and  Picotees  His  Excellency,  Em- 
press Eugenie,  Mrs.  Tremayne,  Dervish,  Mr. 
Nigel  and  Mohican. 

Plants    for    bordering'    a    drive 

(Amateur). — We  presume  you  require  annual 
flowers  and  such  as  would  make  a  good  display 
for  a  lengthy  period.  Just  what  you  might 
grow  satisfactorily  will  depend  not  a  little  upon 
the  conveniences  you  have  for  raising  them, 
though  if  you  prefer  such  as  could  be  grown  in 
the  open,  you  might  indulge  freely  in  Sweet  Peas 
in  variety,  arranging  them  in  groups  3  feet 
across  and  a  few  feet  asunder,  and  alternate 
these  with  groups  of  annual  Sunflowers.  These 
would  make  a  bold  back  line  of  groups.  In  front 
of  these  plant  Lavatera  trimestria.  Rocket  Lark- 
spur, Helianthus  cueumerifolius  and  green  and 
variegated  Maize  ;  and  again,  in  front  of  these 
might  come  Snapdragons,  Pentstemons,  Chry- 
santhemums Evening  Star  and  Morning  Star, 
C.  oarinatum  in  variety,  C.  coronatum  and  others. 
In  the  more  immediate  front,  Godetias,  Phlox 
Drummondii,  Calliopsis,  Mignonette,  Linum, 
Candytuft  and  many  more  could  be  arranged, 
while  it  you  possess  a  greenhouse.  Stocks,  Asters, 
Nicotiana  sylvestris,  Love-lies-Bleeding  and 
Zinnias  may  be  raised  for  suceessional  flowering. 
There  are,  of  course,  many  perennials  that  could 
be  planted  to  flower  this  year  (the  Michaelmas 
Daisies,  for  example),  and  you  might  add  a 
collection  of  the  early  flowering  Chrysanthemums, 
which  would  carry  on  the  display  well  into  the 
autumn  months.  For  the  smaller  beds  we 
suggest  tuberous  Begonias  in  white,  pink, 
scarlet,  yellow  and  crimson  shades,  one  colour 
only  in  each  bed.  These  may  be  planted  out  in 
May  or  early  .June  from  the  boxes  in  which  they 
had  been  started,  arranging  them  at  9  inches 
apart  each  way  and,  if  need  be,  sowing  a  sprink- 
ling of  Mignonette  among  the  plants. 

Supports  fop  Sweet  Peas  {J.  H.  M.).—.\a  you 
object  to  brushy  sticks,  you  cannot  do  better  than  use 
2-iuch  mesh  wire  netting  as  you  suggest.  This  is  largely 
employed  by  many  growers  without  injury  to  the  plants 
resulting.  The  string  has  the  disadvantage  of  becoming 
very  taut  or  slack,  according  to  the  humidity  of  the 
atmosphere. 

Climbing'  plant  fop  ^vall  (Charch  Circk).—We 
do  not  think  you  can  improve  upon  the  Nasturtium  for  a 
quick-growing  annual  climber,  but,  of  course,  there  will 
be  a  certain  amount  of  training  necessary  for  this,  as  for 
other  things.  Ecoremocarpus  scaber  and  Tropa;olum 
tuberosum  are  both  good  for  sunny  aspects,  the  former 
being  of  sub-shrubby  habit  and  the  latter  tuberous  rooted. 
The  Tropeeolum  should  do  uncommonly  well  in  your 
district. 

Vitis  henpyana  iSalvp).—\Ye  presume  this  is  the 
plant  you  refer  to  when  you  write  of  Ampelopsis  heuryanus, 
and  which  you  will  find  quite  hardy  In  your  district.  In 
the  Midlands  generally  the  species  is  safe  enough  when 
planted  in  open  positions,  such  as  pergolas,  pillars  or  even 
as  isolated  examples  on  rude  poles.  The  species  also 
possesses  a  decorative  value  of  its  own  when  grown  in  the 
cool  conservatory,  the  well-marked  leaves  being  most 
effective. 

Peat-moss  littep  (fl'.).— You  did  quite  right  in 
spreading  the  manure  on  the  garden  with  which  it  was 
intended  presently  to  be  incorporated  for  the  cultivation 
of  flowering  plants.  Having  been  on  the  surface  some 
months  it  would  be  in  a  condition  for  digging  in,  to  the 
benefit  of  almost  any  crop  you  like  to  plant.  It  is  another 
matter  altogether,  however,  to  bring  the  fresh  manure 
into  contact  with  living  plants,  and  this  we  cannot  advise 
you  to  do.  The  manure  in  question  is  of  a  strongly 
absorbent  nature,  and  in  placing  it  upon  vacant  ground 
you  did  the  right  thing,  as  the  manurial  properties  would 
be  carried  down  and  so  enrich  the  soil.  Whether  the  manure 
is  good  as  a  mulch  will  depend  upon  circumstances  and,  in 
particular,  the  crop  to  which  it  is  applied.    Speaking 


generally,  it  would  not  be  sate  to  use  it  as  a  mulch  fresh 
from  the  stables  if  applied  to  growing  plants  ;  far  better 
that  you  stack  it  or  place  it  in  a  pit  and  incorporate  with 
it  one-third  its  bulk  of  garden  soil.  In  this  way,  and  at 
the  end  of  three  or  four  months,  you  would  be  possessed 
of  a  heap  of  material  of  much  value  and  rich  in  the 
primary  essentials  to  plant-life. 

Single  Violet  plants  In  fpatnes  not 
floweping'  (if.  P.  B.).— The  past  winter  has  been  a 
very  trying  one  for  Violet  plants.  No  doubt  as  the  days 
lengthen  and  with  brighter  weather  the  plants  will  flower 
freely.  It  is  the  custom  with  many  to  grow  the  plants 
intended  for  winter  flowering  on  shady  borders.  This  is  a 
mistake,  as  grown  on  this  aspect  the  plants  are  soft  and 
not  in  good  condition  to  stand  the  rigours  of  a  hard  winter 
even  under  glass.  Let  them  be  grown  rather  in  well- 
manured  and  cultivated  land  where  they  can  be  exposed  to 
sun  and  light  all  day.  Another  frequent  cause  of  Violet 
plants  not  flowering  well  in  winter  is  because  they  have  been 
allowed  to  flower  freely  in  late  summer  and  early  autumn 
out  of  doors  before  being  placed  under  glass.  This  should 
on  no  account  be  allowed ;  every  bud  should  be  picked  off 
as  it  appears. 

Summep  bedding  (M.  L.  Fell).—Vfha,t  might  be 
done  in  the  way  of  novelty  in  these  matters  is  often  pro- 
hibited either  by  reason  of  the  cost  or  from  lack  of 
convenience  to  grow  the  necessary  plants.  We  are  not 
surprised  that  you  have  a  desire  to  get  away  from  the 
eternal  and  meaningless  glare  of  scarlet  Geranium  (so- 
called)  and  Calceolaria,  though  in  any  case  summer  bedding 
not  infrequently  becomes  more  or  less  monotonous  for  the 
same  reason  that  makes  the  things  named  objectionable 
now.  Just  what  you  may  advantageously  employ 
depends  not  a  little  on  the  size  of  the  beds,  and 
of  this  you  give  us  no  idea.  But  seeing  that  you  possess 
a  longing  for  sweet-scented  flowers,  we  think  you 
might  with  pleasure  and  profit  try  some  beds  of 
the  perpetual-flowering  Carnations,  such  as  Winter  Cheer 
and  Britannia,  scarlet :  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson,  cerise ; 
Mrs.  Brooks,  white  ;  Enchantress,  pale  pink ;  and  IToriana, 
cerise  pink.  To  do  these  justice,  strong  plants  should  be 
put  out  late  in  May  from  6-inch  pots,  and  such  as  these 
would  flower  till  frosts  set  in.  Not  all  the  above  are 
strongly  fragrant,  but  most  of  these  have  a  fragrance  of 
their  own.  The  surfaces  of  these  Carnation  beds  could  be 
carpeted  or  thinly  planted  with  white  Alyssum,  Mignonette 
or  Tufted  Pansies.  Possibly,  too,  yuu  would  like  to 
embrace  beds  of  Stocks,  say,  a  white  variety,  with  Liberty 
or  Richmond  Rose  springing  therefrom,  or  the  same  Roses 
with  a  carpet  of  white  Tutted  Pansy  Empress.  Other 
beds  might  be  planted  with  scarlet  Fuchsias,  interspersed 
with  variegated  Cock's-toot  Grass,  while  the  ever-welcome 
fragrance  of  Cherry  Pie  or  Heliotrope  becomes  an  essential 
item  where  fragrance  is  so  much  desired.  Another 
delightful  subject  is  that  most  fragrant  Verbena  Lovely 
Blue,  which  is  as  unique  in  colour  as  it  is  in  fragrance. 
Beds  wholly  composed  of  the  two  last  named  or  in 
duplicate  might  easily  be  arranged  in  the  narrow  section 
given  in  the  sketch  or  at  opposite  ends  of  the  two  square 
plots  shown,  and  if  in  the  former  a  centre  bed  of  the 
white-flowered  Tobacco  (Nicotiana  aftinis)  might  be 
arranged  with  scarlet  Lobelia  fulgens  or  Queen  Victoria 
springing  therefrom.  The  majority  of  the  plants  named 
are  profuse  flowering,  and  valuable  from  that  point  of 
view,  and  we  feel  sure  that  a  trial  of  some  of  them  during 
the  ensuing  summer  will  afford  you  a  great  amount  of 
pleasure.  The  scented-leaved  Verbena  and  the  Lavender 
are  also  delightful  subjects  in  the  garden. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Narcissus  Sir  Watlcin  not  flower- 
ing well  {E.  B.  fi.).— Your  enquiry  is  a  little 
vague,  and  we  should  like  to  have  fuller  particu- 
lars to  enable  us  to  give  a  definite  reply.  If  we 
understand  you  rightly,  you  dug  up  and  divided 
the  bulbs  last  June,  in  itself  an  early  date  for 
your  district,  and  one  that  would  hardly  admit 
of  the  embryo  flower-bud  being  well  formed. 
You  say  "  it  had  been  necessary  to  divide  the 
bulbs,"  but  it  is  not  clearly  stated  that  the  bulbs 
were  divided  last  June,  and  if  so,  the  proba- 
bilities are  that  the  flowering  bulbs  were  planted 
back.  Narcissus  Sir  Watkin  is  usually  a  robust 
grower  and  a  reliable  variety  to  flower.  So  far 
as  the  lifting  period  is  concerned,  mid-July  for 
your  district  would  have  been  better,  and  for  the 
purpose  you  name  this  nearly  perpetual-rooting 
variety  needed  no  drying  off  at  all.  Drying  is  a 
sort  of  necessary  evil  that  should  be  peculiar  to 
the  commercial  aspect  of  the  ease,  but  for  a 
private  garden  it  is  not  necessary  aud,  like  all 
alien  methods,  is  weakening  in  its  effects.  The 
fact  that  so  small  a  percentage  has  flowered  may 
be  due  to  a  variety  of  causes,  and  may  be 
accounted  for  by  reason  of  the  crowded  growth 
that  rendered  division  necessary,  and  which 
should  have  been  rectified  by  a  full  year's  growth 
as  separate  individuals  in  the  open  ground  ;  or  it 
may  be  due  to  too  early  lifting  and  at  a  stage 
prior  to  the  formation  of  the  flower-bud.      Had 


120 


THE    GARDEN. 


[March  6,  1909. 


we  a  bulb  or  two  before  us,  we  could  have  given 
you  a  more  definite  reply,  and  if  you  would  like 
to  send  a  fair  sample  of  the  failing  ones,  foliage 
and  all  complete,  together  with  a  few  more 
particulars,  we  will  do  our  best  to  make  matters 
perfectly  clear  and  easy  for  you  in  the  future. 

Plants    for    gl&ss   house  facing 

nOPth  (J-  P-)- — In  such  a  structure  as  that 
indicated  by  you  greenhouse  plants  of  many 
kinds  could  be  grown,  including  the  subjects 
named  in  your  query.  For  the  roof,  besides 
Roses  and  Fuchsias,  you  might  have  Clematis 
indivisa,  Passifloras,  Lantana  salvia-folia  and 
Abutilons.  These  last,  owing  to  their  quick 
growth  and  showy  pendulous  flowers,  are  seen  to 
great  advantage  trained  to  a  roof.  Two  of  the 
best  are  Boule  de  Neige  (white)  and  Golden 
Fleece  (yellow).  If  you  fancy  growing  several 
difl'erent  subjects  you  may,  on  the  shelves,  grow 
a  miscellaneous  collection  of  greenhouse  plants. 
Besides  the  Begonias,  Carnations  and  Geraniums 
named  by  you,  most  of  the  plants  commonly  met 
with  in  a  greenhouse  can  be  grown  therein. 
Among  them  may  be  named  Fuchsias,  as  well  as 
those  trained  to  the  roof,  Bouvardias,  Cannas, 
Heliotrope,  Lantanas,  Primulas,  Campanulas, 
Arum  Lilies,  Lilium  longiflorum  and  many  others. 

Capnation  for  inspection  (/'.  T.  7'.).  Although 
the  Carnation  flower  you  send  is  pleasing  enough,  we  do 
not  think  it  of  sufficient  merit  to  retain,  even  if  you  can 
fix  it.  As  you  say  it  was  growing  on  a  plant  of  Lady 
Bountiful,  it  is,  without  doulit,  a  sport  o(  that  variety,  and, 
of  course,  we  cannot  give  you  its  name  lieyond  that,  for  the 
simple  reason  that  it  has  not  got  one. 

Size  and  paint  fop  liot-watep  pipes(C.  A.  T.). 
We  have  made  enquiries  in  all  directions  and  cannot  find 
anyone  who  has  had  practical  experience  of  size  mixed 
with  paint  for  the  coating  of  hot-water  pipes.  At  the 
same  time,  we  should  not  expect  the  size  to  cause  any 
injury  to  the  plants  ;  still,  your  experience  would  suggest 
that  it  is  the  cause  of  the  trouble.  Perhaps  some  readers 
of  The  GarI'Kn  will  be  al)le  to  help  us  in  the  matter  ? 

Bulbs  aftep  flo-wering  (•/.  B.).— Your  bulbs  are 
not  likely  to  give  you  much  satisfaction  another  year  ; 
indeed,  the  Paper-white  Narcissi  and  P..oman  Hyacinths 
may  be  thrown  away  at  once.  The  others  may  be  stood  in 
a  cold  frame  till  frosts  are  over,  when  they  should  be  laid 
in  the  ground  till  the  leaves  die  down.  If  taken  up  in 
summer  and  cleaned,  they  may  be  planted  out  anywhere  in 
the  open,  as  they  will  in  all  probability  throw  up  a  few 
flowers,  but  are  useless  for  blooming  in  pots  another 
season. 

Sample  of  potting-  soil  fop  inspection 
{E.  ii.).— We  have  carefully  examined  the  enclosed  sample 
of  soil  and  find  it  very  poor  iu  (luality,  and  not  at  all  suited 
for  potting  purposes.  It  is  certainly  no  better  than  ordinary 
mould  from  a  garden  ;  at  least,  soil  equally  good  may  be  dug 
up  from  many  gardens.  As  you  say,  it  is  next  to  impossible 
to  keep  it  in  a  medium  state  of  moisture,  it  becoming 
either  sodden  or  dust  dry.  If  loam  such  as  that  forms  the 
basis  of  your  available  potting  compost,  this  is  sufficient  to 
account  for  the  failure  of  your  Begonias  and  Cinerarias. 
Horse-manure  should  not  be  mixed  with  potting  soil,  this 
being  of  too  light  and  drying  a  nature  unless  the  soil 
itself  is  too  heavy. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Growing  Mushrooms  in  a  cellar 

(Zero). — In  a  cellar  of  the  dimensions  you  name 
you  could  have  three  separate  beds,  each 
!•  yards  long,  leaving  ample  spaces  between  each 
bed  for  covering  over  and  gathering  the  Mush- 
rooms, &c.  The  beds  are  made  in  ridge  form, 
2J  feet  high  and  '2J  feet  wide  at  the  base.  Two 
heaped-up  cartloads  of  fresh  stable  manure  (to 
include  about  half  short  straw)  is  the  quantity 
required  to  make  3  yards  run  of  bed.  The 
manure  has  to  vmde»go  a  process  of  fermentation 
before  it  is  used,  when  its  bulk,  of  course,  will  be 
considerably  reduced.  Good  spawn  will  cost  from 
Is.  fid.  to  2s.  a  bushel,  and  a  bushel  will  spawn 
about  2  yards  of  bed.  Ordinary  garden  soil  will 
do  for  covering  the  beds  after  spawning.  If  the 
crop  is  a  good  one,  a  yard  of  bed  should  return 
from  123.  to  15s.  Success  depends  upon  a  good 
supply  of  fresh  horse-manure  being  available  and 
cheap,  and  upon  a  knowledge  of  the  details  of 
culture.  We  advise  you  to  invest  Is.  3d.  in  a 
book  on  Mushroom  culture  by  Mr.  Barter  (a  life- 
long successful  Mushroom  grower),  to  be  obtained 
from  the  publisher,  41,  Wellington  Street,  W.C, 
or  to  consult  back  numbers  of  The  Garden, 
where  the  subject  is  exhaustively  treated. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Pruning  Roses  (Percy).— We  are  glad 
you  find  The  Garden  so  helpful.  The  part  of 
Essex  in  which  you  reside  is  excellent  for  Roses  ; 
indeed,  the  county  is  noted  for  the  high  quality 
of  the  blooms  it  produces.  The  plants  should  be 
pruned  about  the  middle  of  March,  generally 
speaking,  but  the  Tea-scented  varieties  are 
deferred  until  April.  Climbing  Roses  should  be 
pruned  when  they  have  finished  blooming.  This 
consists  in  removing  some  of  the  old  growths 
and  retaining  the  best  of  the  new  shoots.  They 
are  then  gone  over  again  in  February  and  the 
side  or  lateral  shoots  then  shortened  to  two  or 
three  eyes  or  buds.  Standard  Roses  are  pruned 
very  similar  to  dwarf  or  bush  plants.  The 
vigorous-growing  sorts  are  shortened  back  to 
about  1'2  inches  to  15  inches,  while  those  of 
medium  growth  are  reduced  to  6  inches  or 
8  inches.  Some  vigorous-growing  standard  Roses 
of  the  climbing  type,  such  as  Gloire  de  Dijon 
and  W.  A.  Richardson,  may  have  their  growths 
left  almost  full  length  and  tied  over  umbrella- 
like, attaching  the  shoots  by  means  of  string  to 
the  stem.  This  induces  a  freer  blooming  all 
over  the  tied  growths.  After  flowering,  some  of 
these  growths  are  cut  away  and  younger  shoots 
utilised  another  year.  You  will  find  some  useful 
information  as  to  pruning  the  various  sorts  in 
our  issues  for  February  23  and  March  2  of  the 
year  1907,  and  March  7  and  14  of  last  year. 

Sixty  best  exhibition  Roses  (W. 

Rindh). — We  append  herewith  a  list  of  sixty 
varieties  that  are,  in  our  opinion,  the  best  for 
exhibition  purposes.  A  few  of  them  would  be 
best  budded  annually,  and  for  this  purpose 
you  should  plant  during  the  present  and  next 
month  some  Briar  cutting  stocks  or  some  seed- 
ling Briars,  and  bud  them  this  coming  .July  and 
August.  The  varieties  that  should  be  thus 
budded  we  have  marked  with  an  asterisk.  For 
the  Tea-scented  varieties  it  would  be  best  if  you 
could  procure  them  as  half-standards,  for  one 
obtains  much  superior  flowers  in  this  form  than 
from  bushes.  The  sixty  varieties  we  recommend 
are  as  follows  :  Hybrid  Perpetuals — Frau  Karl 
Druschki,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Ulrich  Brunner, 
*A.  K.  Williams,  Hugh  Dickson,  Mrs.  R.  G. 
Sharman  Crawford,  *Gustave  Piganeau,  Her 
Majesty,  *Victor  Hugo,  *Horace  Vernet,  *Helen 
Keller,  Suzanne  M.  Kodocanachi,  Captain  Hay- 
ward,  Marchioness  of  Londonderry,  Dr.  William 
Gordon,  Prince  Arthur,  Charles  Lefebvre,  Marie 
Baumann  and  Alfred  Colomb.  Hybrid  Teas — 
*Bessie  Brown,  Dean  Hole,  *Mildred  Grant, 
Caroline  Testout,  J.  B.  Clark,  Florence  Pember- 
ton,  'Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  *Mrs.  W.  J. 
Grant,  Alice  Lindsell,  La  France,  Lady  Ash- 
town,  William  Shean,  *Marquise  Litta, 
Killarney,  Mrs.  T.  Roosevelt,  *White  Lady  and 
Queen  of  Spain.  Tea-soented — White  Maman 
Cochet,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley,  Mme.  J.  Gravereaux, 
Maman  Cochet,  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting, 
Comtesse  de  Nadaillac,  Medea,  The  Bride, 
Muriel  Grahame,  Catherine  Mermet,  Mme. 
Cusin,  Bridesmaid,  Innocente  Pirola,  Souvenir 
de  S.  A.  Prince,  Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon,  Mme. 
Constant  Soupert,  Mme.  Hoste,  Souvenir  d'un 
Ami,  Martehal  Niel,  Anna  Ollivier,  Mrs.  Myles 
Kennedy,  Lady  Roberts,  Golden  Gate  and  Marie 
van  Houtte. 
Rose  hedge  facing  east  (D.  Morris). 

You  cannot  do  better  than  plant  several  of  the 
beautiful  wichuraiana  Roses  for  forming  your 
hedge.  They  are  prodigious-growing,  one  plant 
making  an  enormous  amount  of  growth  in 
one  season,  and  there  is  a  wide  range  of  colour  njw 
among  them.  The  Roses  you  name  to  mix  with 
the  above  are,  with  the  exception  of  Frau  Karl 
Druschki,  Fellenberg,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
Hugh  Dickson  and  Griiss  an  Teplitz,  quite  unsuit- 
able, their  growth  not  being  sufficiently  vigorous. 
We  give  the  names  of  varieties  eminently 
suitable  for  making  a  hedge,  and  have  arranged 
them  in  three  groups — early,  medium  and  late 


flowering — so  that  you  may  so  distribute  them  as 
to  have  your  hedge  interesting  from  early  June 
to  late  October,  and  even  November  in  your 
district.  We  have  put  an  asterisk  against  those 
that  are  most  evergreen.  Early  flowering 
wichuraianas  :  *Alberic  Barbier,  *Gardenia, 
*Jersey  Beauty,  Rene  Andre,  Ruby  Queen. 
Other  classes  :  Penzance  Briars,  Carmine  Pillar, 
The  Dawson  Rose,  Mrs.  A.  Waterer,  Mme. 
Plantier,  Blairii  No.  2,  The  Lion,  Una,  Harri- 
sonii,  *Aglaia,  Eleetra,  Walthani  Bride,  robusta. 
Medium  wichuraianas:  Auguste  Barbier,  'Elise 
Robichon,  i*Sweetheart,  'Evergreen  Gem,  'Fer- 
dinand Roussel.  Other  classes  :  Flora,  Griiss  an 
Zabern,  Mme.  d'Arblay,  Blush  Rambler,  Rubin, 
The  Wallflower.  Late  flowering  wichuraianas  : 
"Dorothy  Perkins,  *White  Dorothy  Perkins, 
Manda's  Triumph,  *wichuraiana  rubra,  *Ed- 
mond  Proust.  Other  classes  :  "Felicity  Perpetue, 
Crimson  Rambler,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Stanwell 
Perpetual,  Waltham  Rambler,  Trier,  *Mme. 
Alfred  Carriere,  *Aimee  Vibert.  *Griiss  an  Teplitz, 
Lady  Waterloo,  Fellenberg,  Zepherin  Drouhin, 
■  Longworth  Rambler,  *Mme.  Isaac  Pereire, 
"Cheshunt  Hybrid,  Franyois  Crousse,  *Pink 
Rover,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
Hugh  Dickson,  J.  B.  Clark  and  *Blane  Double  de 
Coubert. 

Moving  Rose  tpees  fpom  the  open 
gpound  in  May  and  June  (/•'(<«(»).— The  best 
method  would  be  to  take  up  the  Roses  as  early  as  possible 
and  pot  them;;  they  could  then  l)e  replanted  at  any 
convenient  time  during  the  summer,  without  the  trees 
receiving  any  check  or  sacrificing  the  liloom.  If  planted 
from  the  ground  early  in  May,  many  of  them  no  doubt 
would  live  and  succeed  fairly- well  afterwards  ;  but  to  plant 
in  June  would  be  courting  failure. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Apple   trees   cankered    (Cank-er).~ 

Canker  in  Apple  trees  is  one  of  those  mysterious 
diseases  the  cause  and  cure  of  which  is  unknown 
to  vegetable  pathologists.  The  only  thing  we 
know  is  that  some  varieties  are  much  more  liable 
to  its  attack  than  others,  and  we  also  know  that 
the  disease  is  far  more  prevalent  on  heavy  and 
cold  land  than  on  that  which  is  of  a  warmer 
nature.  Canker  seldom  or  ever  kills  a  tree  out- 
right. We  often  meet  with  veteran  trees  which 
have  been  its  victims  for  scores  of  years  and 
yet  bearing  fair  crops  of  average  quality 
fruit.  In  your  case,  having  a  tenacious,  heavy 
soil  to  deal  with,  we  would  have  the  land  extra 
well  drained.  This  will  considerably  increase 
the  temperature  of  the  soil  and  also  have  a 
beneficial  effect  upon  the  health  of  your  trees. 
Also  cut  away  all  the  dead  parts,  especially 
round  the  wounds  ;  this  has  the  effect  sometimes 
of  causing  the  healthy  new  bark  to  grow  over 
the  wounded  part. 

Bands  pound  stems  of  tpees  in  Apple 
OPCliapds  (A.  M.  i).).— These  bands  are  placed  round 
the  stems  of  Apple  trees  to  prevent  depredations 
from  the  codlin  moth,  the  most  destructive  of  all  the 
insect  pests  the  Apple  tree  is  exposed  to.  The  bands  may 
be  formed  of  stout  brown  paper,  or  thin  pieces  of 
carpet  or  sacking  may  be  used.  They  should  be  6  Inches 
wide  and  long  enough  to  allow  a  little  overlapping  at  the 
ends.  They  must  be  tied  tightly  round  the  stems  of  the 
trees  at  a  distance  of  IS  inches  from  the  ground. 
Previously  the  outer  side  (not  the  one  next  the  bark)  must 
be  thickly  dressed  with  tar,  bird-lime  or  some  other 
greasy  or  sticky  substance.  This  will  prevent  the  insects 
from  ascending  the  trees  from  the  ground.  The  bands 
must  be  occasionally  redressed  so  that  the  surface  may 
retain  its  stickiness,  or  the  insects  would  be  able  to 
crawl  over  the  hardened  surface.  The  female  insects, 
which  cause  the  trouble,  are  wingless,  and  can  only  reach 
the  branches  by  climbing  up  the  stem.  The  caustic 
alkali  burning  wash  is  the  best  for  removing  moss,  *c., 
from  fruit  trees.  It  is  too  late  to  apply  it  now,  as  buds 
are  commencing  to  swell. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Tank  for  flsh  (Rita).— It  the  green  is  caused  by 
stagnant  water,  your  remedy  would  Ije  in  an  overflow  to 
carry  oft  the  scum  daily.  This  could  be  done  by  pumping. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  green  is  the  fault  of  the  water 
itself,  only  filtration  will  modify  it.  In  any  case  you 
might  place  a  few  inches  of  clean  gravel  in  the  tank, 
which  would  he  helpful,  and  adopt  the  suggestion  of  over- 
flowing the  water  to  carry  off  the  scum. 


.fcp  ^gfey- 


GARDEN. 


-^r=^' 


^^^Ji 


si^ 


No.  1947.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


Makch  13,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 

How   TO    GEOW    FRUIT 

Fruit  Garden 

Trees  in  Pots 

121 

The    Melon   and    its 

NOTBS  OP  THE  WEBK 

culture    

127 

The  Garden  Flower 

Gardening  for  Beoinners  I 

Show       

122 

Garden  work  week  by 

CORRB8PONDBN0E 

week 

128 

The    new    classifica- 

Crown    or     rind 

tion  of  Daffodils  . . 

12.S 

gratiing 

128 

Mealy  bug  on  Vines 

12.'! 

How    to    grow    the 

Phormium   tenax  in 

florist's      Ranun- 

New Zealand..     .. 

123 

culus        

129 

New     Potatoes      at 

How   to    manage    a 

Christmas      . .     . . 

123 

hot-bed  frame 

129 

BarOHEN  GARDEN 

The  Town  Garden  ,. 

129 

Garden  Peas      . .     . . 

123 

GARDBNINS  op  THE  WEEK     I 

Flower  Garden 

For  the    South   and 

Sweet  Pea  chat 

124 

South  Midlands   . . 

130 

The    white    Cosmos 

For  the  North    and 

bipinnatuB     . .     . . 

125 

North  Midlands  .. 

130 

Vagner's     Spring 

130 

125 

French  and    African 

Hyacinthus  azureus   . . 

131 

Marigolds      . .     . . 

125 

Prizes  for  Readers 

131 

ROSE  Garden 

Answers     to    Corre-  I 

Pruning  iloses  . .     . . 

12B 

8PONDENI8 

Fruits  of  Rose  Una . . 

126 

Flower  garden  . .     . . 

1,31 

Coloured  Plate 

Trees  and  shrubs     . . 

1.32 

Chrysanthemums   to 

Rose  garden      . .     . . 

132 

flower  in  November 

126 

Fruit  garden     . .     . . 

132 

IliLUSTRATIONS. 

Phormium  tenax  in  a  New  Zealand  garden 123 

The  early  Spring  Snowflake  in  a  Scottish  garden      . .    124 
A  vase  of  white-flowered  Cosmos  bipinnatus      . .     . .    125 

Heps  of  Rose  XTna 126 

chrysanthemums  to  flower  in  November      Coloured  plate 
Dwarf  French  Marigold  (Tagetes  patula  nana)    . .     . .    127 

Crown  or  rind  grafting 128,  129 

The  pretty  little  Hyacinthus  azureus     131 


EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  korticxdture  is  represented  in  THE 
Gauden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  ** Answers  to  Correspondents"  colum/ns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  com/munications  mitst  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  tvill  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  tvill  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributioTis,  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  he  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  retxtm  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  tcse, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  Garden 
unll  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


HOW     TO     GROW     FRUIT 
TREES    IN    POTS. 

By  J.  Hudson,  V.M.H. 

THE   following  series   of    articles   have 
been    written    by    Mr.    J.    Hudson, 
V.M.H.,  whose  suooess  in  the  culti- 
vation of  fruit  trees  in  this  way  is 
well  known.    Mr.  Hudson  has  given  in 
these  articles  the  results  of  years  of  experience, 
and  brings  this  interesting  and  profitable  way  of 
growing  fruit  trees  in  pots  thoroughly  up-to-date. 
Introductory. 
It  often  takes  years  before  any  new  idea  is  fully 
grasped  or  developed,  be  it  in  whatever  line  one 
may   think  of  or  suggest.     So   it   has  been  in 
regard  to   the   subject  now  brought  before  the 
readers  of   The   Garden.     The  pot  culture  of 
fruits  in  orchard  houses  is  not  a  new  development 
now ;  but  one  thinks  it  is  still  in  its  infancy  with 
many  fruit-growers,  more  especially  with  those 
who  grow  fruits   for  home  consumption.     The 
pioneer  of   orchard  house  culture  was  the  late 
Thomas   Kivers,  whose  writings    thereon    were 
looked    at    askance    by   many  and   considered 
very  good  in  theory,  but  not  so  in  practice.     I 
have  to  admit  that  this  was   my  view   of  the 
matter  some  few  years  back  ;  but  since  I  have 
had  the  opportunity  of  thoroughly  testing  this 
mode  of  culture,  my  opinions  have  completely 
changed.      I  have  proved  now,  after  some  few 
years  of  practice,    and    that  to  my  complete 
satisfaction,  that  there  is  much,  I  may  say,  to 
recommend  this  system  of  culture.     Opinions,  as 
in  other  instances,  may  still  differ  ;  but  in  what 
follows  I  shall  state  only  what  I  have  done  or 
what  has  come  under  my  immediate  observation. 
I  may  add  at  this  point    that    it  was  at  the 
instigation  of  my  present  employer,  Mr.  Leopold 
de  Rothschild,  who  is  himself  a  most  enthusiastic 
gardener  with  a  practical  knowledge  of  gardening, 
and,  may  I  also  add,  with  a  gardener's  difficulties 
too,  that  I  first  embarked  into  this   system  of 
fruit  -  growing.      This  is   the  outcome  of    one 
among  many  other  instances  resulting  from  the 
present-day  policy  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  as  it  relates  to  the  annual  exhibitions  held 
now  for  so  many  years  in  the  Temple  Gardens. 
It  was    at    one   or  more  of    these    shows  that 
Mr.  de  Rothschild  noted  the  fine  displays  made 
by  Messrs.    Thomas  Rivers    and   Son  of    Saw- 
bridgeworth.     He  saw  at  once  that  there  must 
be  something  in  the  system,  and  he  left  it  to  me 
to  work  out  in  the  best  way  possible. 

The    Orchard   House  :    What    is    it  1    Its 

Development,  &;c. 
By  the  term ' '  orchard  house  "  I  take  it  that  only 
such  fruits  as  cannot,  in  every  locality,  be  grown 
out  of  doors  was  originally  intended,  where,  for 
instance,  the  injuries  resulting  from  spring  frosts 
made  the  crops  somewhat  precarious  and  un- 
certain. This  was,  in  fact,  I  believe  Mr.  Thomas 
Rivers'  view  of  it,  so  that  crops  might  be  ensured 
year  by  year,  when  frequently  they  would  only  be 
partially  so  outside,  owing  either  to  the  spring 
frosts  or  to  the  climatic  conditions  not  being  so 


as  these  would  not  be  heated.  The  first  erections 
at  Sawbridgeworth  were  not ;  in  fact,  the  very 
first  houses  were  merely  sheltered  at  the  sides  by 
hedges,  or,  in  other  words,  a  glass  roof  between 
two  hedges.  Now,  however,  and  for  some  few 
years  past,  owing  to  the  enterprise  of  the  firm,  a 
more  extended  system  has  been  developed, 
whereby  early  forcing  has  been  clearly  and 
successfully  demonstrated,  notably  in  the  case  of 
Nectarines  and  Peaches.  This  has  opened  up  a 
wider  range  in  fruit  culture  under  glass,  which  is 
still  on  the  increase.  No  better  proof  of  this 
could  be  needed  than  by  the  yearly  demand  for 
fruit  trees  in  pots,  which  has  taxed  the  resources 
of  the  firm  named,  and  also  those  of  Messrs. 
Bunyard  and  Co.  and  Messrs.  J.  Veiteh  and  Sons. 
Both  of  these  firms  now  make,  like  Messrs. 
Rivers  and  Son,  a  speciality  of  pot  fruits. 

Their  adaptability  for  other  crops,  i.e.,  when 
forcing  is  done,  is  a  great  feature  in  favour  of 
such  houses,  i.e.,  those  for  pot  trees  only.     To 
begin  with  there  is  an  advantage,  inasmuch  as 
sufficient  trees  to  fill  at  least  three  or  four  houses 
may  be  kept  in  one  house  until  the  fruit  is  set, 
if  needs  be.     I  do  not  advise  it  being  done  to 
this  extent  if  it  can  be  avoided  ;  but  one  house 
may  be  made  to  contain  sufficient  trees  for  two 
houses  later  on.     For  instance,  both  early  and 
midseason     Nectarines     and    Peaches    may    be 
brought  forward  in  the  same  house,  being  sepa- 
rated after  the  fruit  is  set,  the  early  in  one  and 
the  midseason  in  another.     Then  under  the  pot 
trees  bulbs  may  be  brought  forward  for  use  else- 
where when  in  bloom   or  for  cutting.     Straw- 
berries in  pots  can  be  grown  from  start  to  finish 
upon  shelves  if  the  pot  trees  are  not  too  much 
crowded.     When  the  fruit  is  gathered  and  the 
trees  hardened  off,  so  that  they  can  be  stood  out- 
side, another  crop  may  follow  at  once.     Two  or 
three    suggestions    for    this    purpose    might   be 
quoted,  viz.,  Melons  and  Cucumbers,  Tomatoes 
andFigs  (the  latter  in  pots,  the  other  three  planted 
out  or  in  pots,  as  may  be  most  convenient),  or  if  it 
be  a  nvufseryman's  house,  other  yoimg  trees  in  pots  ' 
can  be  thinned  out  from  those  houses  that  are  too 
much  crowded,  where  they  can  mature  and  finish 
their  growth.    Whether  it  be  in  a  private  garden 
or  in  a  nursery,  such  a  house  by  the  end  of 
September,  or  when  the  other  crops  are  over, 
might  again  be  filled,  this  time  with  Chrysanthe- 
mums   for    October,   November  and    December 
flowering.     In  my  case  the  routine  has  been  as 
follows  :    First,   the  pot  trees   are   started  from 
December  1  to  December  10,  the  fruit  being  all 
ripe  and  gathered  by  the  end  of  May  or  the  first 
week  in  June,  when  the  house  is  well  ventilated 
for  a,  week  or  ten  days.    The  trees  are  then  stood 
outside  and  the  house  well  cleansed,  after  which 
we  bring  in  another  stock  of  fruit  trees  in  pots 
that  have  set  their  fruit  in  a  cold  house,  some- 
what crowded    together,   and    those  that  were 
temporarily  stood  outside  are  placed  in  this  cold 
house,  where  they  are  plunged  to  the  rims  in 
coal-ashes,  and  where  they  remain  until  the  time 
of  potting  comes  round  again.     This  cold  house 
through  the  winter  holds  sufficient  trees,  chiefly 
of  choice  dessert  Plums,  to  fill  three  houses  later 
on.     In  changing  the  trees  over  we  only  put  into 
it  the  trees  from  two  early  forcing  houses,  so  that 
they  are  not  overcrowded.      The  trees  from  the 


__        „   _    .      ,   _  t •  —  """  -"■"■—""  v^-yumviuiio  uuu  uciug  ou    uiioy  aiHuuu  uverorowaea.      xne  trees  irom  tne 

OgUee:  to,  Tamatock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C.        I  favourable  at  the  time  of  ripening.     Such  houses  I  third  house  and  the  Cherries  in  pots  from  another 


122 


THE.    GARDEN. 


[March  13,  1909. 


are  stood  outside  until  the  time  of  potting, 
but  plunged  as  a  matter  of  course  (the  advan- 
tage of  plunging  will  be  shown  later  on). 
To  fill  up  around  the  sides  of  the  houses 
some  Tomatoes  in  pots  are  grown,  and  upon 
shelves  autumn-fruiting  Strawberries  are  ripened, 
if  occasion  arises.  We  used  to  prepare  a  supply 
of  Melons  in  6-inch  pots  to  plant  out  in  one  house 
the  first  week  in  July  ;  but  as  these  are  now 
found  accommodation  in  another  quarter  they  do 
not  now  enter  into  the  routine  system  of  the 
orchard  house.  These  Melons  used  to  ripen  ofi' 
during  September,  after  which  the  house  was 
ready  for  early  Chrysanthemums. 
(To  be  continued.) 


NOTES  OF    THE  WEEK. 


FOKTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*,.*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 
March  23. — Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Plants,  &c.,  1  p.m. 
to  6  p.m.  Lecture  at  three  o'clock  by  Mr.  H. 
Lloyd  Praeger,  on  "  Rock  Gardens,  Natural  and 
Artificial."  Admission  2s.  6d.  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 


"The   Garden"   Flower    Show.— 

Judging  by  the  numerous  letters  received  from 
our  readers,  this  show  will  be  a  considerable 
advance  on  the  excellent  exhibition  held  last 
year.  We  would  draw  the  attention  of  any  new 
readers  to  the  schedule  enclosed  with  this  issue, 
and  we  ask  all  to  carefully  read  the  particulars 
contained  therein.  The  names  of  the  judges  will 
be  announced  in  due  course.  We  hope  readers 
will  do  all  they  possibly  can  to  make  the  show 
widely  known,  and  also  bring  the  results  of 
their  labours  to  the  show  so  that  we  can  see  for 
ourselves  what  they  are  capable  of  growing. 
Remember  the  date,  July  2Sth,  at  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society's  Hall,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  and  do  not  forget  that  £100  in 
prizes  and  a  gold  medal  and  silver  medals  are  to 
be  competed  for. 

Oup    February   Competition.— 

Owing  to  the  large  number  of  essays  sent  in  we 
are  obliged  to  hold  over  the  results  of  this  com- 
petition until  next  week,  when  we  hope  to 
announce  them  and  publish  the  first  prize  essay. 

The  Coloured  Plate.— We  had  intended 
presenting  with  this  issue  a  coloured  plate  of  a 
new  Sweet  Pea;  but  owing  to  unforeseen 
circumstances  we  are  unable  to  do  so.  We 
are,  therefore,  giving  a  plate  of  seedling 
Chrysanthemums,  which  marks  quite  a  new 
departure  in  colour  photography  as  applied  to 
horticulture,  it  being  reproduced  direct  from  a 
Lumii're  plate,  which  was  taken  direct  from 
Nature.  Colour  photography  has  long  been  the 
object  of  photographic  specialists,  and  it  is  now, 
of  course,  an  accomplished  fact.  We  believe 
that  the  plate  presented  with  this  issue  is  the 
first  of  its  kind  ever  published  in  a  horticultural 
journal,  and  on  this  account  it  is  of  more  than 
usual  interest. 

The  Gardeners'  Royal  Bene- 
volent Institution.— At  a  largely  attended 
meeting  of  the  committee,  presided  over  by  Mr. 
Harry  J.  Veitch  and  including  the  hon.  solicitor 
(Mr.  W.  A.  Bilney),  it  was  unanimously  re- 
solved :  "  That  in  view  of  amendments  to  the  Old 
Age  Pensions  Act  which  will  probably  be  pro- 
posed by  the  Government  during  the  present 
Session  of  Parliament,  no  immediate  steps  should 
be'taken  for  the  alteration  of  annuities  payable 
by  the  institution."  At  the  same  meeting  £4.5 
was  voted  from  the  Good  Samaritan  Fund  in 
several  sums  to  six  gardeners  and  two  widows  of 
gardeners  who  were  in  distressed  circumstances 
and  in  urgent  need  of  assistance. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

CThe  Editor  is  not   responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 


The   classification   of  perpetual 

Roses. — The  correspondence  is  drifting.  Maj- 
I  recall  your  readers  to  the  point  ?  The  question 
is  this :  Owing  to  the  cross-fertilisation  of  hybrids 
is  there  still,  or  is  there  not,  any  definite  botanical 
distinction  easily  recognisable  between  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas,  Bourbons  and  Teas  ? 
This  was  the  primary  point  of  ray  article.  We 
can  detect  the  difference  between  hybrids  of 
moschata,  multiflora  and  wichuraiana  by  wood, 
prickles  or  foliage.  Can  the  same  be  said  of  the 
four  groups  of  perpetuals  above  mentioned  ? 
It  is  gratifying  to  observe  that  up  to  the  present 
no  one  has  replied  in  the  affirmative.  The  ques- 
tion of  grouping  these  Roses  for  the  garden  and 
exhibition  purposes  is  a  secondory  consideration. 
The  primary  point  should  be  bravely  faced,  not 
shied  at.  What  is  the  good  of  preserving  a 
merely  conventional  distinction  when,  for  all 
practical  purposes,  it  is  useless  ?  Remarks  on 
the  views  expressed  by  your  correspondents  I 
will  reserve  for  the  present. — .Joseph  H. 
Pemberton,  Havfring-atte- Bower.  [We  hope 
our  correspondents  will  keep  to  the  main  issue 
in  this  discussion. — Ed.] 

The     new    classification     of 

Daffodils.  —  I  ask  for  space  for  a  brief 
rejoinder  to  Mr.  .Jacob,  chiefly  in  order  to  have 
an  opportunity  of  making  an  apology  for  words 
which  blamed,  or  seemed  to  blame,  the  Council 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  for  the 
failure  of  the  new  classification.  It  appears  that 
the  Council  did  in  every  respect  exactly  what  the 
Narcissus  Committee  requested  them  to  do — no 
more  and  no  less.  The  Narcissus  Committee — 
and  I  share  the  blame — should,  of  course,  have 
asked  for  the  work  of  their  delegates  to  be 
referred  back  to  them  for  mature  consideration 
before  being  presented  to  the  Council  for  final 
authorisation.  I  used  the  name  of  the  Council 
inadvertently  ;  my  meaning  was  simply  that 
such  a  sweeping  innovation  should  not  have 
received  the  imprimatur  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  until  endorsed  by  the  whole 
body  of  experts.  Travesties  of  Scripture  are 
not  necessarily  cogent  arguments,  and  much 
of  Mr.  Jacob's  reply  I  do  not  answer 
because  it  is  scarcely  serious  or  pertinent. 
He  charges  me  with  inaccuracy  in  calling 
this  classification  "new,"  and  devotes  a 
paragraph  to  my  refutation  on  this  point.  My 
answer  need  not  be  so  lengthy.  I  refer  him  first 
to  the  introduction  to  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  Classified  List,  which  states  on  its  first 
page  that  it  has  become  necessary  to  adopt  some 
"  new  or  modified  classification  .  .  .  ."and, 
secondly,  to  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Official  Report  for  1908,  in  which  it  is  said 
(page  13)  that  "  the  Committee  have  delivered 
their  Report  instituting  an  entirely  nop  system  of 
classification."  Mr.  Jacob  asserts  that  "no 
extraordinary  blunder  has  been  made  with  regard 
to"  (the  omission  of)  "Mr.  P.  R.  Barr's  name, 
except  by  Mr.  Engleheart  himself."  He  is 
singularly  misinformed.  The  indisputable  facts 
are  that  Mr.  P.  R.  Barr,  as  the  original  mover 
for  a  revision,  was  one  of  the  first  and  foremost 
to  be  appointed  by  the  Narcissus  Committee, 
and  that  the  subsequent  omission  of  his  name 
came  about  by  a  deplorable  mistake.  Mr. 
Jacob's  remarks  about  botanical  and  natural 
classifications  are  not  very  intelligible  to 
me.  He  quotes  my  criticism  that  the  new 
scheme  is  entirely  arbitrary,  and  seems  to 
think  that  the  quotation  is  a  justification  of  the 
scheme.  I  asserted,  and  assert,  that  a  scheme 
so  artificial  as  to  ignore  broad  natural  distinc- 
tions, which  are  obvious  to  the  eye  of  a  child,  is 
near  to  an  absurdity.  Mr.  .Jacob's  proposition 
that  we  can  have  two  concurrent  classifications, 
a  common-sense  one  for  common  use  and  another 
"  for  the  passing  needs  of  shows,'"  is  surely  a  I 


contribution  to  comic  rather  than  to  serious 
literature.  It  is  much  as  if,  "  for  the  passing 
needs  of  horse  shows,"  mules,  asses  and  zebras 
were  to  be  reckoned  as  ponies  and  in  everyday 
life  were  again  to  resume  their  ordinary  names. 
And  what  should  we  think  of  a  classification 
which  put  together  horses  and  mules  in  one 
division  and  mules  and  asses  in  another  ?  This 
is  precisely  what  this  very  new  classification 
does  by  mixing  up  pure  trumpets  with  their 
hybrids  and  pure  Poets  with  their  hybrids.  No 
"convenience  for  shows"  can  justify  such 
absurdities.  As  to  the  place  of  the  pure 
Poetious,  Mr.  .Jacob's  solution  by  a  sub-division 
of  Class  4  is  no  solution,  as  I  pointed  out  in  my 
first  notes.  If  the  judge  at  a  horse  show  has  to 
sort  out  the  pure-bred  asses  from  a  class  which 
was  obviously  meant  to  include  both  them  and 
mules,  such  classification  is  condemned  as 
ridiculous.  But  this  "entirely  new  system" 
has  been  received  with  such  a  chorus  of  dis- 
approval that  it  may  already  be  reckoned 
more  dead  than  Queen  Anne.  "Unwept, 
unhonoured  and  unsung,"  no  one  regrets  it  ; 
we  regret  only  its  ill-considered  adoption  by 
two  or  three  provincial  societies.  The  sub- 
scribers to  the  Midland  Daffodil  Society  in 
particular  have  reason  to  complain  that  the 
schedule  was  hurriedly  altered  to  the  very 
new  classification  by  one  or  two  over-zealous 
members,  without  any  notice  to  the  members  at 
large.— G.  H.  Englbheabt. 

The  classification  of  Daffodils  has  been 

adorned  by  altered  texts  from  the  holy  library 
by  a  presbyter  who  wrote  a  feeling  article  in  a 
late  number  of  The  Garden,  yet  it  does  not 
seem  to  many  that  he  proved  the  title  "  new  "  as 
given  to  the  efforts  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  to  be  wrong.  Parkinson,  Turner, 
Clusius,  Lobel,  Gerard,  Salisbury,  Haworth, 
Herbert,  Leeds,  Nelson,  Baker,  Burbidge  and 
Barr  have  all  worked  in  the  nomenclature  and 
classification  of  the  flower ;  and  with  respect  to 
those  who  have  gone  before,  one  does  not  like  to 
say  that  their  work  is  all  rot  and  we  must  wipe 
it  out  and  begin  again.  The  article  which  Mr. 
Engleheart  wrote  summed  up  much  which  had 
made  its  appearance  before  in  print  under  other 
names,  and  certainly  needed  no  contradiction 
from  a  member  of  the  special  committee.  One 
would  strive  as  much  as  possible  to  keep  the 
private  feelings  of  individuals  out  of  the  ques- 
tion ;  but  doubtless,  where  so  many  of  the 
authorities  on  the  said  flower  are  so  busy  in 
conducting  their  own  business,  it  is  hard  to  get 
a  committee  of  the  best  judges  together  to  do  an 
unthankful  and  tedious  work.  Whether  or  not 
any  mistake  arose  in  the  names  of  the  sub- 
committee appointed  to  consider  the  matter  is 
not  for  the  outside  public  to  judge.  Whether 
any  members  used  their  personal  influence  to 
have  the  new  classification  adopted  in  local 
shows  is  a  matter  for  the  committee  of  such 
shows  to  think  about.  To  the  general  public 
the  question  is  ;  Is  it  a  help  to  exhibitors  or 
merely  something  extra  to  learn  ?  As  the  list 
now  stands  it  is  of  little  use  to  either  judges  or 
exhibitors.  Out  of  a  total  of  some  2,200  names 
800  have  been  left  unclassed.  How  is  a  judge 
to  decide  what  class  to  place  an  unclassed  flower  in 
when  WhiteQueen  is  Class  2  and  the  similar  yellow 
Sir  Watkin  is  Class  3  ?  Again,  if  the  classifica- 
tion is  to  be  done  by  a  central  authority,  how 
are  flowers  to  be  adjudged  as  to  the  right  or  wrong 
class  when  shown  for  the  first  time  in  a  local 
show  ?  Mr.  Jacob  in  his  article  makes  remarks 
about  Hyacinth.  In  the  new  classification 
S.  H.  de  Graaff  is  classed  seven  quite  right,  as 
probably  a  Polyanthus  cross,  but  it  very  rarely 
has  more  than  one  flower  ;  while  Mary  Magda- 
lene de  Graaff  is  classed  three  when  it  mostly 
has  two  flowers.  Doctors  differ.  Surely  in  such 
cases,  provided  all  the  stems  were  the  same, 
whether  one,  two  or  more  flowers,  they  should 
be  allowed  as  qualified  for  that  number,  and  not 
be  relegated  to  a  class  which  someone  is  sure  to 
disagree  about. — Aoricola. 


March  13,  1909.] 


THE     GAEDEN. 


123 


The    new    classification    of 

Daffodils. — I  am  sure  many  of  your  readers 
will   be   pleased   to    see    the    letter    from    Mr. 
Engleheart  in  The  Garden  of  February  20,  and 
will   be    relieved    to    know    that    neither    Mr. 
Engleheart  nor  Mr.   P.  R.  Barr  approves  of  the 
new  classification ;   neither  the  little  handbook 
containing  the  classified  list  nor  the  report  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  council  gives  the 
names   of    those    who    formed     the    committee 
appointed  to  undertake  the   task.      There  was 
urgent  need  of  some  recognised  means  of  classi- 
fying the  many  new  seedlings  that  appear  year 
after    year    in    increasing    numbers  ;    but     the 
committee  in  its  zeal  has  done  too  raueh.      It 
would     have     been    quite    sufficient    if    it    had 
drawn  up  a  list  of  all  the  doubtful  flowers  and 
classified  them  according  to  the  old  and  well- 
known  divisions,  instead  of  instituting  an  entirely 
new  system  and  asking  us  all  to  take  it  like  a 
dose   of   physic  ;    I    do   not   think    it    will    be 
swallowed  so  readily.     The  Daffodil  world,  not 
being  so  very  seriously  ill,  is  inclined,  I  fancy,  to 
enquire  rather  critically  into  the  ingredients  of 
the  medicine  that  has  been  prescribed  for  it,  and 
the  more  the  new  classification  i3  examined  the 
more  distasteful  it  appears.     It  will  be  no  more 
easy  under  the   new  system   to  say  whether  a 
doubtful  seedling  is  a  long  or  a  short  trumpet,  a 
large   or  a  small    or   a    flat    cup,   or    a 
"  bunch  flowered"  than  it  was  under  the 
old  to  say  whether  it   were  a    Magni, 
Medio  or  a  Parvi,  and  then  there  were 
all  the  subdivisions  to  help  us  in  the  old 
system.      There   is    a    saving   clause    on 
pages  2  and  3  of  the  new  Classification 
which   states    that  :     "If  Ithe   principle 
involved  in  the   present  list  should  find 
acceptance,   it  is   intended  in  a    future 
edition  not   only  to  correct  and  modify 
the   arrangement    according    to  further 
experience,   but  also   to   indicate  which 
varieties  are  considered  to  be  self  yellow 
and  self  white  large  and  small  trumpets ; 
bicolor  large  and  small  trumpets ;  Poeticus 
varieties ;   and   colour  divisions  in  other 
classes."     Would  it  not  have  been  wiser 
to  have  submitted  the  new  system  to  the 
various  Daffodil   societies    for    approval 
before  trying  it,  or,  at  least,  to  have  kept 
it    back  until   it   had    been   made   fairly 
workable  and  complete  V    The  old  system 
with    a    classified    list  of    all    doubtful 
flowers   for  show   purposes    would  have 
worked  very  well  and  would,  I  feel  sure, 
have  satisfied  everybody.     The  Midland 
Daffodil    Society   has  adopted  the    new 
system,    and  I  see  in   its  schedule  for 
1909  a  clause  on  page  43   providing  for 
the  ease  of  a  flower  being  shown  which 
is  not  classified,  and    stating  that    the 
judges  will  be  instructed  to  give  exhibitors 
the  benefit  of  any  reasonable  doubt.     I 
think  if  they  had  been  so  instructed  before 
the  last  show  we  should  not  have  seen  the  little 
green  book  which    has   created  such   a   flutter 
among  the  trumpets  and  the  cups. — Dianthus. 

Mealy  bugf  on  Vines.— The  worries 
and  disappointments  attendant  on  the  culture  of 
the  Grape  Vine  when  there  is  this  loathsome 
pest  in  possession  can  scarcely  be  described  in 
words,  verbal  or  written,  and  therefore  hosts  of 
your  readers  who  are  victims  will  peruse  Mr. 
Wythes's  notes  (page  53)  with  more  than  passing 
interest.  As  he  very  correctly  says,  there  are 
various  means  devised  for  their  extermination, 
and  it  might  also  be  said  that  the  uncertainty  of 
results  are  almost  equally  varied.  Very  few, 
according  to  my  experience  and  observation,  lay 
claim  to  having  survived  the  ordeal  of  annihilating 
an  established  stock  of  mealy  bug,  but  I  am 
equally  emphatic  on  the  possibility  of  complete 
riddance,  providing  the  necessary  and  persistent 
measures  are  rigidly  practised.  It  is  not  difficult 
to  point  to  instances  where  the  winter  dressings, 
liming  of  walls  and  other  attendant  details  are 
zealously  practised  year  by  year,  and  still  there 


remains  a  stock  of  mealy  bug  to  impose  their 
alien  infection,  and  each  season  the  hope  is  raised 
in  the  minds  of  such  gardeners  that  actual  eradi- 
cation is  assured.  There  was  a  time  when  the  whole 
of  our  Vine  stock  was  more  or  less  infested,  and 
for  several  years  war  was  waged  against  the  pests 
without  actual  result ;  but  at  the  present  mement 
we  are  in  the  enviable  position  of  having  over- 
come their  claim  of  priority,  both  in  regard  to 
Vines  and  plants  also.  It  is,  I  find,  absolutely 
futile  to  trust  to  winter  dressings  alone. 
Our  practice  was  to  follow  up  the  winter  series 
by  a  spring  and  summer  course;  and  though 
it  may  appear  to  many  readers  beyond  the  bounds 
of  possibility  to  devote  this  time  in  busy  seasons, 
yet  in  practice  it  does  not  involve  so  much 
sacrifice  as  it  appears  to  claim.  Petroleum, 
though  so  valuable  as  a  general  insecticide,  gives 
rise  to  a  forbidding  thought  when  the  winter 
dressing  of  Vines  is  in  season.  We  have  witnessed 
so  many  casualties  following  the  use  of  this  fluid 
on  Vines  that  the  most  persuasive  testimony  in 
its  favour  would  not  change  convictions.  Gas 
tar,  which  Mr.  Wythes  claims  to  be  equally 
offensive,  was  our  chief  winter  remedy,  using 
only  sufficient  to  give  colour  to  the  clay  and 
water  paint.  We  have  not  found  that  this 
injured  the  Vines  or  the  buds,  but  it  is  safe  to 
err  on    the  minimum   use  of    this   ammoniacal 


yield  to  its  destroying  influence.  I  agree  with 
Mr.  Wythes  that  hydrocyanic  gas  requires  further 
experiments  by  the  expert. — W.  Strugnbll. 

Phopmium  tenax  in  New 
Zealand. — I  am  sending  you  a  photograph  of 
Phormium  tenax  growing  in  its  native  land, 
which  I  hope  will  be  of  interest  to  other  readers 
of  The  Garden.  I  seldom  photograph  anything 
except  trees  and  flowers,  but  I  am  only  a  beginner. 
I  look  with  longing  eyes  at  the  schedule  of  your 
flower  show  and  wish  I  could  send  something  to  it. 
— (Mrs.)E.  T.  Izard,  Ohristchurch,  New  Zealand. 

New  Potatoes  at  Christmas.— 
Having  read  the  article  by  C.  H.  Clissold,  I 
should  like  to  be  a  little  further  instructed  as  to 
his  method  of  obtaining  new  Potatoes  at  Christ- 
mas. What  is  meant  by  hardening  them  oS'! 
and  is  the  Melon  frame  to  be  heated  with  pipes 
or  manure  ?  I  should  like  to  know  what  tem- 
peratmre  the  frame  should  be  throughout  their 
growth. — H.  Walters. 


PHORMIDM   tenax   IN  A  NEW  ZEALAND  GARDEN. 

liquid.  Wires,  eyelets  and  all  ironwork  can  be 
advantageously  painted  with  pure  petroleum, 
taking,  of  course,  the  utmost  care  that  none 
touches  the  Vine  rods.  Methylated  spirit  could  be 
employed  perhaps  with  more  safety.  This  can  be 
used  on  the  Vines  themselves  without  risk,  and 
in  summer-time  is  a  perfect  remedy.  A  feather 
or  camel  hair  brush  charged  with  the  spirit  will 
instantly  "  melt "  the  mealy  bug,  and  herein  lies 
the  most  potent  factor  in  effecting  a  clearance. 
Methylated  spirit  pressed  into  weekly  service  on 
plants  will  have  the  same  magical  efficiency,  and 
that,  too,  without  that  fear  of  injury  which  is 
attendant  on  the  use  of  raw  petroleum  as  a  feather 
"dip."  Soluble  paraffin  becomes  a  valued  every- 
day remedy  for  plant  syringing  or  dipping,  used 
in  proper  proportions,  prepared  as  Mr.  Wythes 
advises,  or,  better  still,  purchased  from  merchant 
sundriesmen  who  make  it  a  prized  speciality.  I 
have  no  proof  of  the  efficiency  of  nicotine  insecti- 
cides for  mealy  bug  ;  but  for  other  insects,  such 
as  thrip  and  red  spider,  black  or  green  fly  it  is 
unchallenged,  and  I  am  hopeful  that  scale  will 


THE    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 

GARDEN   PEAS. 

Few  vegetables  are  more  highly  esteemed  during 
the  summer  months  than  Peas,  and  certainly 
nothing  pays  better  for  good  cultivation. 
It  should  be  the  aim  of  everyone  with  a 
kitchen  garden  of  any  dimensions  to  pro- 
long the  season  as  far  as  possible ;  and  with 
the  great  improvements  that  have  been 
effected  during  recent  years,  especially 
in  relation  to  early  and  late  varieties, 
there  is  no  reason  why  these  may  not 
be  had  from  the  beginning  of  June 
until  November  in  many  localities. 
Not  only  have  varieties  suitable  both 
for  early  and  late  production  been 
raised,  but,  what  is  of  the  first  im- 
portance, these  possess  a  quality, 
generally  speaking,  as  well  as  an 
appearance,  far  in  advance  of  those 
cultivated,  say,  twenty  or  thirty  years 
ago. 

Preparation  of  the  Ground. 

As  the  Pea  roots  deeply  it  is  important 
that  the  land  be  well  cultivated  and 
enriched  with  good  manure.  The  ground 
should  be  trenched  during  winter  or 
early  spring  to  a  depth  of  at  least 
from  2  feet  to  3  feet,  and  left  rough 
for  the  weather  to  penetrate  and  pul- 
verise the  surface,  so  that  when  the 
time  arrives  for  either  sowing  the  seed 
or  transplanting  from  boxes  after  being 
raised  under  glass  a  fine  tilth  is  assured. 
Where  the  land  is  at  all  wanting  in  lime,  a 
good  sprinkling  should  be  strewn  over 
the  surface  immediately  after  the 
trenching  is  completed,  and  the  same 
of  soot  and  wood-ashes.  For  midseason  and 
late  varieties  the  system  of  preparing  trenches 
practised  by  many  is  to  be  highly  commended. 
This  I  have  adopted  and  advised  for  many 
years.  There  is  no  better  time  than  the 
month  of  March  for  opening  these  and  preparing 
the  same.  First  of  all,  the  surface  should  be 
forked  over  to  the  depth  of  about  6  inches,  after 
which  the  trenches  should  be  taken  out  to  a  good 
depth,  much  in  the  same  way  as  for  Celery,  the 
bottom  being  deeply  forked  up  and  at  least  1  foot 
of  good  manure  put  in,  for  choice  that  from  the 
farmyard  which  has  been  stacked  in  a  heap  and 
partly  rotted.  The  soil  excavated  should  be 
allowed  to  remain  until  the  time  arrives  for 
putting  in  the  seed,  and  the  distance  between  the 
rows  must,  to  a  great  extent,  depend  on  circum- 
stances, both  as  to  the  varieties  selected  and  the 
room  at  command.  Here  let  me  point  out  that  • 
one  had  far  better  err  on  the  side  of  allowing  too 
much  rather  than  too  little  space  between  the 
rows  ;  indeed,  I  muoh  prefer,  whenever  possible, 
especially  for  midseason  and   late  varieties,  to 


124 


THE    GARDEN. 


[March  13,  1909. 


allow  sufficient  room  between  the  rows  to  grow 
some  other  crop,  such  as  three  or  four  rowa  of 
Cauliflowers  or  other  vegetables  of  the  Brassica 
type.  By  so  doing  I  have  proved  beyond  doubt 
that  the  crops  are  much  heavier  and  the  plants 
will  continue  to  bear  for  a  much  longer  period. 
Peas  ought  never  to  be  grown  on  the  same  site 
two  years  in  succession,  and  it  is  better  still  if  an 
interval  of  two  years  can  be  allowed. 

SowiNfi  THE  Seed. 
I  have  always  advocated  and  practised  raising 
all  the  early  and  second  early  varieties  in  boxes 
under  glass  and,  after  they  are  about  3  inches  in 
height  and  the  plants  are  well  hardened,  putting 
them  out  on  the  prepared  ground  during  favour- 
able weather,  staking  and  netting  them  at 
the  same  time.  This  to  many  may  appear  a 
waste  of  time,  but  it  is  really  not  so  ;    success 


THE   EARLY   SPRING  SNOWFLAKB,    LEDCOJUM   VERNUM   VAONERI   (CARPATICUM 
IN    A    SCOTTISH    GARDEN. 

is  mueh  better  assured.  The  seeds  germinate 
much  better  in  a  more  genial  temperature  and  a 
warmer  soil,  they  are  more  under  command  as 
regards  vermin  which  attack  them,  and  nothing 
transplants  better  when  done  at  the  right 
moment  than  the  Pea.  Generally  speaking, 
more  failures  are  due  to  overcrowding  than  to 
any  other  cause,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  in 
many  oases  at  least  from  six  to  eight  plants 
occupy  the  space  where  two  would  suffice  ;  the 
result  is  a  weakened  and  impoverished  growth, 
and  the  supply  is  short.  The  stronger  and  taller 
the  variety,  naturally,  the  more  space  should  be 
given.  I'or  instance,  such  varieties  as  Quite 
Content,  Hercules,  Alderman  and  Centenary 
•  should  be  allowed  8  inches  to  10  inches  from  plant 
to  plant.  When  sowing  in  the  open  ground,  sow 
the  seed  as  thick  again  as  the  plants  are  intended 
to  remain,  and  thin  the  seedlings  to  the  required 
distance  when  these  are  safely  above  ground.     It 


is  essential  in  nearly  all  cases  to  take  means 
either  to  destroy  or  trap  vermin,  such  as  rats  or 
mice,  immediately  the  seed  is  sown,  and  it  is 
often  necessary  to  protect  against  many  birds, 
both  before  and  immediately  after  germinating, 
nothing  being  better  than  ordinary  Pea-guards 
for  this  purpose. 

Staking. 

There  have  been  many  inventions  for  support- 
ing the  growth,  but  I  know  of  nothing  better  than 
the  old  method  of  good  brush  Pea-sticks,  Hazel 
for  choice.  These  should,  if  possible,  be  new 
each  year,  be  well  sharpened  and  got  in  readiness 
during  inclement  weather.  Insert  them  firmly, 
straight  and  in  a  workmanlike  manner,  always 
taking  care  to  place  them  as  near  the  plants  at  the 
bottom  as  possible.  Use  a  few  small  twigs  placed 
between  to  conduct  them  to  the  larger  stakes. 

Ml'LCHlNd   AND 

Watering. 
During  drought 
the  ground  should 
be  well  mulched  with 
long  litter  and 
copious  supplies  of 
liquid  manure  and 
clear  water  be  given. 
The  tops  will  be 
much  benefited  if 
syringed  during  the 
evenings  after  hot 
days.  Late  Peas  are 
frequently  attacked 
bj'  mildew,  but  this 
is  generally  due  to 
overcrowding  and 
insufficient  moisture 
at  the  roots. 

Varieties. 
The  names  of  these 
are    almost     legion. 
Many  could  only  be 
distinguished  by  the 
names  attached.     It 
is    fair   to   say   that 
though  one  Pea  may 
do  well  in  one  locality 
it    is   anything    but 
satis  factory    in 
another ;  but,  at  the 
same  time,  there  are 
standard      varieties 
which    seldom    fail. 
Those  which  I  have 
found      among     the 
best  are  enumerated. 
Early   varieties: 
Among     the    dwarf 
sorts  I  favour  Ameri- 
can  Wonder    and 
Daisy,      both      now 
fairly    old,     but 
extremely     good. 
Varieties  of  medium 
h  eight,    and     which 
I  much   prefer  to  the  dwarfer  sorts,  are  Early 
Giant,   Early  Morn  and   Edwin   Beckett;   each 
is  a  prolific  bearer,   of  good    constitution  and 
of  the  very    highest   quality.      To  follow  these 
Improved    Duke    of    Albany    is    hard    to    beat 
for    any    purpose.       For    midseason    Alderman 
and  Quite  Content    are  perhaps  the  two  finest 
Peas  yet  raised,  either  for  exhibition  or  general 
purposes.      Essex  Wonder  is  a  grand  new  Pea 
raised    by    that   enthusiastic    amateur,    Mr.    G. 
Hobday  of  Romford  ;  it  only  requires  to  be  better 
known  to  make  it  a  general  favourite.     Hercules 
is  a  new  and  distinct  Pea  of  which  I  think  very 
highly  ;    Centenary,    too,   is  a  good   one.       For 
late  supplies  the   Gladstone,  Autocrat,  Master- 
piece and  Michaelmas  are  all  worthy  of  a  place  ; 
but     the    first     named,    in     my   opinion,    lacks 
quality,  though  fine  in  appearance. 

Edwin  Beckett. 
Aldenhain  Houee  Gardens,  Elstree. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

PLANTS  IN  POTS.— As  the  seedlings 
show  freely  through  the  surface  of 
the  soil  in  the  pots  it  will  be  impera- 
tive to  give  them  more  than  usually 
careful  attention,  for  this  is  one  of 
the  most  critical  periods  in  their  life- 
history.  The  roots  will  be  fine,  tender  and  not 
very  abundant,  and  they  will  have,  comparatively, 
a  large  bulk  of  soil  in  which  to  work.  This  is  as 
it  should  be ;  but  unless  the  grower  exercises  the 
utmost  care  he  may  get  that  soil  too  wet,  with 
the  result  that  the  roots  will  rot  and  the 
plant  suffer  a  most  severe  check.  When  the 
pots  are  full  of  roots  watering  is  far  easier,  as 
moisture  is  constantly  being  drawn  from  the  soil ; 
but  up  to  that  point  water  should  only  be  given 
after  each  pot  has  been  separately  tested  to  make 
sure  whether  liquid  supplies  are  really  required  or 
not.  Let  the  seedlings  have  full  light  and  as 
much  fresh  air  as  the  weather  will  permit ;  dry 
cold  will  not  hurt  them,  but  frosts  following 
damp  may  cause  some  trouble.  It  may  be  well 
to  remind  the  inexperienced  grower  that  the 
varieties  with  light-coloured  seeds  demand  far 
more  care  in  watering  in  the  earliest  stages  than 
the  others. 

Outdoor  Sowing. — Notwithstanding  the  fact 
that  many  hundreds  of  thousands  of  seeds  are 
now  sown  in  pots  and  boxes  in  the  autumn  and 
the  spring,  there  still  remain  vast  numbers  of 
growers  who  would  not  think  of  adopting  such  a 
system,  and  who  still  pin  their  faith  upon  March 
sowing  in  the  open  garden  where  the  plants  are  to 
flower.  The  reason  many  people  do  this  is  that 
they  affirm  that  it  is  impossible  to  transplant 
without  giving  the  plants  a  more  or  less  severe 
check  ;  but,  personally,  I  do  not  think  there  is 
anything  at  all  in  this,  provided  that  proper  oare 
is  taken  in  preparing  the  youngsters  tor  putting 
out  and  in  the  actual  process  of  setting.  How- 
ever, the  outdoor  sower  is  and  always  will  be 
with  us,  and  he  achieves  equally  as  gratifying 
results  as  his  brother  enthusiast  who  sows  under 
glass. 

It  is,  of  course,  assumed  that  the  soil  was  pre- 
pared thoroughly  some  time  back  in  accordance 
with  the  ideas  of  the  grower  or  the  instructions 
which  were  given  previously.  In  either  case 
it  will  be  necessary,  just  prior  to  the  sowing,  to 
fork  over  the  top  8  inches  of  soil  and  to  break  it 
down  into  as  fine  and  friable  a  condition  as 
possible.  The  next  thing  will  be  to  firm  it  and 
cut  out  the  trenches  or  drills.  In  no  circum- 
stances must  these  be  cut  triangularly  with  the 
corner  of  a  draw  hoe ;  flat-bottomed  drills  are 
essential  to  the  greatest  success,  and  the  bases 
must  always  be  made  firm  and  level.  If  the 
plants  are  to  be  grown  in  single  lines,  the  trench 
should  be  about  5  inches  wide  and  2  inches  or 
3  inches  deep,  while  if  they  are  to  be  in  double 
lines,  the  width  should  be  14  inches  and  the 
depth  the  same  as  before.  In  the  former  event 
the  iieeds  will  be  set  down  the  middle  of  the 
drill,  and  in  the  latter  along  each  side  about 
1  inch  away  from  the  edge,  so  as  to  leave  10  inches 
or  12  inches  between  the  plants  at  the  base  ;  this 
can  be  slightly  increased  by  placing  the  seeds 
triangularly  and  thinning  out  so  that  they  still 
retain  this  formation.  In  this  system  they  secure 
more  air  as  well  as  space. 

The  distance  of  setting  the  seeds  must  depend 
upon  circumstances.  Where  mice  are  par- 
ticularly troublesome,  allowance  must  be  made 
for  losses,  which,  however,  can  be  substantially 
reduced  by  damping  the  seeds  and  shaking  them 
up  in  a  bag  containing  dry  red  lead  before  sowing. 
Again,  where  birds  are  a  serious  nuisance  and 
protection  is  difficult  or  impossible,  the  seed 
should  be  sown  rather  thicker,  so  that  the 
feathered  visitors  may  take  their  toll  and  still 
leave  sufficient  for  a  perfect  row  of  plants. 
Generally  speaking,  about  2  inches  asunder  will 


March  13,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


125 


make  all  things  safe.  The  seeds  should  be 
covered  with  fine  soil  to  a  depth  of  at  least 
1  inch.  The  precise  time  of  sowing  must 
necessarily  depend  upon  the  weather  and  the 
condition  of  the  soil ;  but  about  the  end  of  the 
third  week  of  March  suits  the  South  of  England, 
and  two  or  three  weeks  later  the  Midlands  and 
the  North.  These  should  be  taken  as  approximate 
times,  and  each  grower  must  finally  decide  for 
himself.  Spenoer. 


THE   WHITE   COSMOS    BIPINNATUS. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  handsome  of  our  half- 
hardy  annuals,  but  unfortunately  it  has  one 
drawback,  viz.,  that  it  does  not  commence  to 
flower  until  well  into  the  autumn.  This  may  to 
some  extent  be  obviated  by  sowing  the  seeds 
under  glass  in  February  or  early  in  March, 
putting  out  the  plants  in  their  permanent 
quarters  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  over.  The 
plants  usually  attain  a  height  of  6  feet,  their 
finely-cut  foliage  being  of  an  ornamental  cha- 
racter.    In  addition  to  the    tall-growing    type 


than  the  "harbinger  of  the  infant  year"  which 
welcomea  the  earliest  days  of  the  season.  The 
variety  of  Leucojum  vernum  which  is  figured 
in  the  illustration  on  the  previous  page  is  one  of 
the  most  precious  of  the  genus  and  one  which 
deserves  to  be  widely  cultivated.  It  is  among 
the  earliest  of  flowers,  often  opening  in  January, 
and  the  illustration  shows  a  group  taken  early 
in  February  last,  although  all  the  blooms  were 
not  open. 

This  Snowflake  is  one  of  the  finest  of  all,  and 
is  distinguished  from  the  other  Spring  Snowflakes 
by  its  smaller  stature,  its  earliness,  the  large  size 
of  its  blooms  and  the  frequency  with  which  it 
gives  two  blossoms  on  a  stem.  The  last-named 
feature  is  not  invariably  present,  but  the  greater 
number  of  strong  bulbs  usually  give  the  twin 
flowers.  To  add  to  its  worth,  Vagner's  Spring 
Snowflake  shares  in  a  marked  degree  the  virtue 
of  affording  us  a  delicious  Violet-like  fragrance 
when  in  bloom.  The  leaves  are  handsome  and 
deep  green,  and  the  stem,  though  stout,  is  in 
harmony  with  the  grace  and  elegance  of  the 
flowers  themselves. 


A   VASE   Ol!"  WHITE-FLOWISRED  COSMOS  BH'INNATUS. 


there  is  now  a  dwarf  form  obtainable,  which 
has  dull  mauve-coloured  flowers.  This  grows 
about  3  feet  high  and  flowers  nither  earlier  than 
the  type. 

VAGNER'S  SPRING  SNOWFLAKE. 
(Leucojum  vernum  Vaonbri.  ) 
Spring  Snowflakes  are  among  the  most 
delightful  flowers  of  the  early  season,  and  their 
increased  cultivation  would  tend  greatly  to  add 
to  the  pleasures  of  the  garden  at  that  period  of 
the  year.  The  purity  of  the  white  ground  colour 
of  the  blossoms,  which  is  of  satin-like  lustre,  is 
heightened  by  the  contrast  afforded  by  the  deep 
green  or  yellow  spots  with  which  the  exterior  of 
the  segments  is  tipped  ;  and  the  graceful  poise 
of  the  flowers  on  the  stout,  yet  proportionate, 
stems,  together  with  their  elegant  formation, 
will  cause  these  Snowflakes  to  appeal  to  all 
admirers  of  the  hardy  flowers  of  spring. 

Near  allies  of  the  Snowdrops  and,  like  them, 
belonging  to  the  impressive  Natural  Order  of  the 
Amaryllidete,  one  which  comprises  so  many  fine 
plants,  the  Snowflakes  are  even  more  beautiful 


Occasionally  this  Snowflake  is  to  be  found  in 
nurseries  and  gardens  under  the  name  of  L, 
vernum  carpatioum  ;  but,  according  to  Mr.  J.  G. 
Baker  in  his  "Handbook  of  the  Amaryllidese," 
the  latter  is  the  name  of  the  smaller  Spring 
Snowflake,  which  has  yellow  instead  of  green 
spots  and  generally  gives  one  flower  to  a  stem. 
This  should  be  observed  by  purchasers  of 
the  Snowflakes,  as  Vagner's  variety  is  earlier 
than  any  other  form.  The  planting  of  these 
Snowflakes,  which  may  be  done  in  any  good 
garden  soil,  is  best  effected  in  early  autumn,  the 
bulbs  being  set  with  the  crowns  from  3  inches  to 
6  inches  deep. 

Sunnymead,  Dutnfries.  S.  Arnott. 


FRENCH  AND  AFRICAN  MARIGOLDS. 

(Tagetes  patula  and  T.  erecta.  ) 
The  Marigolds  have  long  held  a  place  in  popular 
estimation,  and  have  come  to  be  regarded  as 
indispensable  for  summer  and  autumn  decorations 
in  the  open  air.  Apart  from  the  fact  that  they 
are  easily  raised  from  seeds,  and  require  only  a 
few  simple  details  in  their  after  culture,  they 


have  an  additional  value  by  reason  of  their 
long-continued  season  of  flowering,  their  pro- 
fuseness  and  good  colour.  In  this  latter  respect, 
indeed,  these  plants  may  be  regarded  as 
unique,  and  long  after  many  of  the  bedding 
plants  have  ceased  their  flowering,  these  half- 
hardy  annuals  may  be  seen  affording  stretches 
of  colour  and  beauty  in  the  garden.  It  is  for 
these  reasons  that  I  unconditionally  recommend 
them  to  readers  of  The  Garden. 

The  Marigolds  with  which  we  are  chiefly 
concerned  to-day  are  the  African  and  the 
French.  Botanically,  the  Marigolds  are  re- 
cognised by  the  family  name  Tagetes,  T.  ereota 
being  that  known  as  the  African  Marigold,  and 
T.  patula,  which  is  known  as  the  French 
Marigold.  In  each  case  there  are  many  distinct 
varieties.  Also  well  known  to  gardeners  are  the 
Mexican  Marigolds,  T.  lucida,  and  that  small 
growing  species  or  its  variety,  T.  signata 
pumila,  which  has  been  in  the  past  used  in 
bedding  arrangements  either  in  a  flowering  or  a 
non-flowering  state.  The  African  varieties  pro- 
duce large,  round-headed  blossoms  of  yellow, 
lemon  or  orange  on  plants  of 
tall — i.e.,  24  feet  high — erect 
habit,  hence  they  are  distinctly 
effective  in  the  garden  when 
rightly  disposed,  and  whether 
seen  alone  or  in  conjunction 
with  other  plants,  they  invari- 
ably command  attention. 

The  other  section,  i.e.,  the 
French,  embraces  both  single 
and  double  and  self  and  striped 
or  blotched  flowers,  and  the 
plants  vary  in  height  from 
6  inches  to  2  feet,  the  dwarfer 
forms,  such  as  Legion  of 
Honour,  being  admirably 
adapted  for  bedding  purposes 
where  free-flowering  plants  are 
mostly  in  request.  Indeed, 
there  are  many  varieties  in  this 
latter  section  which  as  bedding 
plants  alone,  or  for  grouping  in 
positions  of  much  warmth,  are 
very  desirable.  At  the  same 
time,  I  cannot  too  strongly 
emphasise  the  fact  that,  while 
these  Marigolds  appear  to 
delight  in  stony  ground  or 
very  hot  situations  or  seasons, 
they  invariably  respond  to  a 
more  liberal  condition  of  soil 
or  of  treatmeut  by  providing 
a  greater  galaxy,  it  may  be,  of 
much  more  handsome  flowers. 
Therefore,  those  readers  who 
would  like  to  grow  these 
plants  for  exhibition  purposes 
should  remember  that  they 
respond  to  a  liberal  fare  and  to  a  sunny  position. 
With  respect  to  their  cultivation,  the  plants 
may  be  raised  in  the  greenhouse  or  on  a  mild 
hot-bed  when  required  tor  early  flowering,  or  by 
sowing  the  seeds  in  the  open  ground  when  all 
fear  of  spring  frosts  is  gone.  What  amount  of 
success  may  be  in  either  case  achieved  will 
depend  entirely  upon  the  way  the  work  is  done, 
the  condition  of  the  soil,  and  other  things. 
The  Marigold,  however,  so  readily  submits  to 
transplanting  from  boxes  or  pans,  and  suffers  so 
little  therefrom,  that  I  am  disposed  to  recom- 
mend it  for  general  adoption,  and,  of  course, 
spedlings  raised  and  transplanted  before  being 
finally  transferred  to  the  open  ground,  run  no 
risk  whatever  from  overcrowding.  Later  in  the 
year  the  seeds  may  be  thinly  sown  in  boxes  of 
sandy  soil  in  the  open  or  by  merely  covering 
them  with  a  sheet  of  glass,  and  such  as  these 
will  afford  a  good  succession  to  the  first  batch. 

It  is  important  to  sow  the  seeds  quite  thinly 
and  to  cover  them  with  not  more  than  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  of  very  fine  and  sandy  soil,  the  latter 
to  be  of  comparative  dryness.  As  soon  as  the 
seedlings  are  well  in  the  rough  leaf  they  may  be 


126 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[March  13,  1909. 


transplanted  to  other  boxes,  and  in  these,  given 
the  shelter  of  a  frame  or  light,  they  will  be 
quite  safe  till  bedding-out  time  comes. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  at  any  time  between  Feb- 
ruary and  May  for  purposes  of  bedding  or  for 
late  flowering,  while  if  grown  from  the  exhibition 
standpoint  the  first-named  month  would  be  best. 
In  any  case  the  seed  boxes  should  never  be  sub- 
jected to  strong  heat.  A  temperature  of  45° 
is  sufficient  and  capable  of  producing  that 
steady  growth  which  is,  after  all,  but  the 
forerunner  of  so  much  success.  When  planting 
in  the  border  it  should  be  remembered  that 
we  get  spring  frosts  quite  late,  and  no  gain 
will  have  to  be  recorded  if  the  plants  are 
put  out  before  the  end  of  May,  having  been 
previously  thoroughly  hardened 
ofif.  All  the  tall-growing  types  or 
varieties  should  be  given  1  foot 
or  18  inches  of  room  between 
each  plant ;  the  smaller-growing 
French  varieties  will  do  cjuite 
well  at  from  9  inches  to  1  foot 
apart,  and  those  of  miniature 
growth aboutone-half  of  this  latter 
distance.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


Mile.  Gabriel  Luizet,  Margaret  Dickson  and 
others  used  as  pegged-down  Roses  may  have 
almost  the  whole  of  their  maiden  shoots  left, 
merely  thinning  out  as  much  of  the  old  wood  as 
can  be  spared.  This  also  applies  to  such  Teas 
and  Noisettes  as  Gloire  de  Dijon,  William  Allen 
Richardson  and  Heine  Marie  Henriette,  only 
these  are  not  so  much  used  for  pegging  down. 
The  maiden  wood  of  the  previous  season  is 
always  the  most  valuable. 

Varieties  of  short  and  sturdy  growth,  such  as 
Prince  de  Bulgarie,  Marjorie  and  Baroness 
Rothschild,  may  be  cut  back  to  three  or  four 
eyes  of  last  year's  wood,  not  fearing  to  cut  out 
very  freely  from  the  centre  of  the  plant.  Nor 
need  one  fear  to  cut  so  as  to  get  a  fairly  good- 


are  sometimes  well  into  leaf.  I  prefer  the  loss 
of  a  little  sap  to  premature  growth  of  the  eyes 
one  thought  signified  bloom.  A  little  considera- 
tion as  to  why  one  is  pruning  is  useful.  Do  you 
want  a  few  flowers  of  extra  quality  or  a  quantity 
of  medium  merit?  The  harder  you  prune,the 
less  flowers  ;  but  these  are  generally  of  a  better 
quality.  Finally,  never  fail  to  get  rid  of  as  much 
of  the  old,  bark-bound  and  sere  wood  as  you  can. 
Most  Roses  can  be  cut  much  liarder  in  this 
respect  than  is  generally  practised.  A.  P. 


ROSE     GARDEN. 


PEUNING    KOSES. 

OFTEN   this  most  im- 
,       portant     part      in 
I      Rose      culture      is 
'      carried  out   in  too 
formal    a    manner. 
No   hard-and-fast 
rule   can   be  followed ;    and    this 
becomes  even  more  the  case  now 
that    we     are     intermixing     the 
sections  and  classes  so  much  by 
hybridisation.       Sometimes     one 
sees    the   knife    used   in    such   a 
ruthless     way     that     mutilation 
would  seem  a  more  fitting  word 
than  pruning,  and  a  great  deal  of 
disappointment  results.    To  those 
with  a  little  experience,  it  seems 
almost  incredible   that    so   much 
abuse   of    the  knife   or    st'cateur 
should    still    be     evident.       We 
frequently  see  the  long  shoots  of 
our  climbers  and  others  of  extra 
vigorous  growth  cut  back  so  hard 
that    scarcely    a     flower    results 
during  the  ensuing  season.      In- 
stead of  realising  the  wealth  of 
blossom   already   stored    up,    we 
force   the   plant    to    make    more 
long    and    comparatively   flower- 
less  shoots.     Perhaps  one  of   the 
safest  rules  we  can  follow  is  to 
cut  our    Roses  hard  if  of  weak 
growth,  and  merely  thin  out,  and 
S3   allow  of   more   light  and   air 
among  the  wood  of  very  vigorous 
sorts.     Generally  speaking,  these 
long    growths   of    climbers    pro- 
duce    flowers     from     all     well- 
matured   eyes,   and  these  should 
be   left   as  much    as   possible   according   to   the 
space    available.       The    chief     art     in    pruning 
very  strong  growers,  such  as  the  wichuraianas, 
Evergreen,  climbing  Teas  and  Noisettes,  lies  in 
thinning  out  the  weakest  shoots  at  this  time  of 
year     and    removing     the     others    during    late 
summer,  after  the  main  crop  of  bloom  has  been 
secured.     This  will  thin   out  the  plants,  and  at 
the    same    time    encourage    more   of    the    most 
serviceable    growth    to    form    for   the   ensuing 
season's  display.     In  almost  all  cases  of  strong- 
growing  sorts  I  would  advise   this  thinning  out, 
and  do  not  fear  to  use  the  knife  freely. 

When  we  come  to  those  of  average  growth,  no 
matter  of  which  class  or  section,  from  4  inches 
to  il  inches  of    last   year's   growth   may  be  left 


FRUITS  OF  ROSE  UNA. 
Several  weeks  ago  we  received  a  splendid 
collection  of  hardy  Heaths  and  other  winter- 
flowering  subjects  from  Messrs. 
Robert  Veitch  and  Son,  Royal 
Nurseries,  Exeter,  and  among 
them  was  a  beautiful  bunch  of 
fruits  of  the  well-known  Rose 
Una.  In  colour  th^se  were  a 
superb  orange  scarlet,  and  they 
would  be  of  considerable  value 
for  winter  decoration.  We  have 
now  much  pleasure  in  reproducing 
a  photograph  of  these  fruits 
which  we  had  taken,  as  we  think 
that  our  available  plants  for 
winter  decoration  are  far  too  few, 
and  any  that  possess  this  cha- 
racter should  be  made  as  widely 
known  as  possible. 


COLOURED 
PLATE. 


PLATE      1869. 


T 


HEPS  OF  ROSE  UNA  QBOWN  IN  MESSRS.  B.  VEITCH  AND   SONS   NURSERY  AT  EXETER. 

shaped'plant  when  de.alingj:with'this' claf s.  On 
the  other  hand,  it  is  folly  to  cut  away  the  best 
sucker-like  growths  of  Perle  des  Jardins, 
Comtesse  de  Nadaillac  and  a  few  more  that  so 
often  produce  their  best  shoots  from  the  base 
and  in  a  more  or  less  one-sided  manner.  These 
are  generally  rather  soft  or  sappy,  and  may  be 
cut  back  to  the  first  sound  eye  or  bud. 

More  often  than  not  Roses  are  pruned  too 
early.  A  rapid  and  unchecked  growth  is  best. 
Early  growths  get  frost-nipped,  or  alt  any  rate 
much  crippled  by  cold  nights,  and  then  insects 
and  other  enemies  gain  the  upper  hand.  Our 
own  practice  is  to  prune  the  last  week  in  March 
or  early  in  April,  and  we  do  not  feel  alarmed 
because  the  end  or  terminal  eyes  of  our  Roses 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS  TO 
FLOWER  IN  NOVEM- 
BER  FROM    SEED. 

HE   culture    of    Chry- 
santhemums from  seed 
is  as  simple  as  that  of 
Primulas     or    Asters, 
and  the   variety   and 
delicate  charm  of  the 
seedlings  far  surpass  the  formal 
plants  of  years  ago.     Seed  should 
be  sown  in  February  or   March, 
using    a    compost    consisting    of 
two  parts  leaf -soil  to  one  part  of 
loam,  and  the  pots  or  pans  placed 
in    a  temperature  of  from  65°  to 
70°.     As  soon  as  seedlings  appear 
they  should  be  moved  to  a  some- 
what lower  temperature  of  about 
55"   to    60°.      When  the  young 
plants  are  large  enough  to  handle, 
prick  them  off  into  4-inoh  pots, 
placing  five  or  six  seedlings  round 
the  edge  of  each  pot  and  using  a 
little  more  loam  in  the  soil. 

When  the  plants  have  made 
five  or  six  leaves,  place  them 
singly  in  .'i-inoh  pots,  keeping  them  in  the  same 
temperature,  and  when  nicely  rooted,  if  thought 
desirable,  they  may  be  stopped  once.  About 
June  shift  them  into  ti-inch  pots,  using  a 
compost  of  half  leaf-soil  and  half  loam,  with 
some  coarse  silver  and.  Ten  days  later  place 
them  out  of  doors,  standing  the  pots  in  ashes. 
Towards  the  end  of  July  move  into  QJ-inch  pots 
(for  flowering),  using  soil  of  the  same  composition 
as  before,  or  perhaps  a  little  coarser.  Keep  them 
standing  on  ashes  or  boards,  if  possible  at  the 
north  side  of  a  hedge  or  house.  Wnen  thoroughly 
rooted  a  little  manurewater  may  be  given  once 
a  week. 

In  October  stand  the  plants  in  a  cool  house, 
and  in  the  first  week  of  November  move  them 


March  13,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


127 


into  the  house  in  which  they  are  intended  to 
flower,  keeping  the  temperature  from  55°  to  60°. 
If  required  for  blooming  in  the  open,  prick  the 
seedlings  off  as  soon  as  they  will  bear  handling, 
and  in  May  have  them  planted  out  in  the 
position  in  whioh  they  are  required  to  flower, 
giving  a  little  protection  at  first.  They  will  be 
found  to  yield  a  profusion  of  blooms,  whioh  will 
prove  invaluable  for  decorative  purposes  through- 
out the  autumn  months.  From  seed  sown  in  the 
open  ground,  even  as  late  as  April,  we  have  known 
fine  plants  to  flower  in  the  November  following. 
QThe  accompanying  coloured 
plate  represents  a  house  of  these 
seedling  Chrysanthemums  in 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons'  nur- 
series, and  is  reproduced  from  a 
photograph  in  natural  colours 
supplied  by  them.  The  plants 
flowered  within  nine  months  of 
sowing  the  seed. 


The  young  plants  will  grow  very  quickly 
when  once  well  started  and  will  require  daily 
attention.  The  main  single  stem  should  be 
allowed  to  grow  without  stopping  until  it  is 
3  feet  long,  and  secured  to  the  trelUs  (fixed  under 
the  glass  roof  and  9  inches  from  it)  with  matting, 
being  careful  not  to  tie  the  young  shoots  too 
tightly.  When  the  main  shoots  have  attained  this 
length  they  should  be  stopped.  (This  is  a  term 
used  for  pinching  oflf  the  top  of  the  shoot  in  order 
to  arrest  its  progress  upwards  for  the  moment. ) 
In  the  meantime  side  shoots,  commonly  called 
laterals,  will  have 
grown  out  of  this 
main  stem.  It  is  on 
these  side  shoots 
the  fruits  will  be 
borne.     After  they 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 


T 


^THE  MELON  AND  ITS 
CULTURE. 
"^  HIS  fruit  can  be  success- 
fully grown  in  any  sort 
of  glass  house  or  pit,  provided  it  is 
well  heated  and  that  the  plants  can 
have  abundance  of  light  and  be 
near  the  glass.  Some  of  the  best 
Melons  I  have  ever  seen,  as  well  as  some 
of  the  heaviest  crops,  were  grown  in  small, 
narrow  pits  exactly  like  ordinary  garden 
frames,  raised  on  walls  sufiiciently  high  for  a 
man  to  work  and  walk  in  comfortably.  The 
roof-lights  are  movable  the  same  as  an  ordinary 
garden  frame,  the  requisite  ventilation  being 
provided  by  tilting  the  lights.  Three  4-inch 
hot- water  pipes  will  provide  sufficient  top-heat, 
and  a  bed  of  fermenting  material  makes  excel- 
lent provision  for  a  genial  bottom-heat  for 
months.  These  pits  can  be  built  very  cheaply 
and  of  any  length  and  width  desired.  A  con- 
venient size  is  the  following  :  Back  wall,  7  feet 
high  ;  front  wall,  5  feet ;  width,  7  feet.  A  wall 
3  feet  high  should  be  built  inside,  2  feet  from 
the  front  wall,  to  hold  the  fermenting  material 
and  a  border  of  soil  for  the  plants  to  grow  in. 

The  best  soil  in  which  to  grow  them  is  turf 
cut  4  inches  thick  from  an  old  pasture.  It  will 
be  better  if  it  is  of  a  rather  marly  or  heavy  loamy 
texture.  The  grass  should  be  mown  ofi' close 
before  the  turf  is  out,  and  in  preparing  for 
planting  out  the  turves  with  the  spade  into 
pieces  the  size  of  a  cricket  ball,  add  a  quart  of 
bone-dust  to  each  barrow-load  of  soil,  mix 
together  and  keep  in  a  dry  place  until  wanted. 
After  the  fermenting  material  has  been  formed 
into  a  bed  in  the  pit  or  house  for  about  a  week 
the  dangerous  foul  gases  will  have  escaped,  and 
the  soil  for  the  border  may  then  be  placed  on  the 
manure.  The  way  to  do  this  is  to  place  two 
turves  side  by  side  the  whole  length  and  down 
the  centre  of  the  manure-bed,  grass  side  down- 
wards, ramming  them  down  firmly  with  a  wooden 
rammer.  On  the  top  of  the  turves,  in  the  middle, 
place  a  ridge  of  the  prepared  soil  15  inches  wide 
at  the  base  and  10  inches  high  at  the  apex, 
allowing  it  to  taper  gradually.  The  soil  in 
another  week  will  have  been  warmed  through 
and  be  in  good  condition  for  plants  raised  in  pots. 
The  simplest  and  best  way  to  raise  the 
plants  at  this  time  of  the  year  is  to  sow  the  seeds 
half  an  inch  deep  in  the  border,  two  seeds 
together,  at  distances  apart  of  20  inches.  This 
may  be  done  the  second  day  after  the  soil  has 
been  introduced.  Why  it  is  recommended  that 
two  seeds  should  be  sown  is  because  one  might 
not  germinate  or  an  accident  might  happen, 
thereby  delaying  the  progress  of  the  crop.  If  all 
the  seeds  grow,  one  plant  at  each  station  only  is 
wanted,  and  the  duplicate  must  be  removed. 


DWABF  FRENCH    MARIGOLD    (TAGETES    PATULA    NANA 


have  formed  from  three  to  four  leaves,  a  female 
flower  with  an  embryo  fruit  will  usually  have 
been  formed,  and  when  such  is  the  case  the 
shoot  must  be  stopped  after  it  has  formed  one 
more  leaf  above  that  by  the  side  of  which  the 
flower  is  formed.  It  sometimes  happens  that 
these  side  shoots  are  barren,  not  showing  female 
flowers  at  all.  The  best  way  of  converting  them 
into  fruitfulness  is  to  stop  them  at  the  fourth  leaf 
like  the  others,  the  probability  being  that  the 
next  growth  after  stopping  will  produce  fruit. 

In  order  to  secure  a  full  crop  of  at  least  three 
or  four  fruits  to  a  plant,  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  wait  until. one  can  secure  these  three  or  four 
fruit-blossoms  of  the  same  age  on  the  one  plant, 
each  to  be  fertilised  by  the  male  pollen  at  the 
same  time,  when  they  will  all  grow  and  swell 


away  together,  resulting  in  a  fine,  heavy  crop. 
On  the  other  hand,  if  one  blossom  is  fertilised 
to-day  and  another  a  week  henoe  the  result  will 
be  a  poor  orop  of  one  or  two  fruits  only  to  a 
plant.  In  speaking  of  the  border  of  soil  in  whioh 
the  plants  grow,  fought  to  have  stated  that  it 
should  be  rammed  perfectly  hard  after  the  seed 
had  been  sown  and  while  the  soil  is  in  a  dry 
condition. 

After  a  sufficient  number  of  fruits  have  been 
set  to  secure  a  good  crop,  the  chief  attention  the 
plants  require  will  be  thinning  of  the  young 
growths,  and  the  way  to  do  this  is  by  stopping 
each  new  shoot  as  it  is  formed  at  the  third  leaf. 
With  the  multiplication  of  these  shoots  the  time 
oomes  when  it  is  necessary  that  a  general  thinning 
of  the  shoots  and  foliage  must  take  place,  in  order 
that  the  plant's   vigour   and  strength  may  be 

directed 
more  to  the 
swelling   of 
the    fruit 
than  to  the 
develop- 
ment  of  the 
foliage. 
This  general 
thinning    is 
efleeted   by 
cutting   the 
end  of  each 
side  branch  back  to  within  one  leaf 
of  where  it  was  stopped  the  second 
time  in  the  first  instance.    This  pro- 
cess could   be  demonstrated  in  a 
moment  on  the  living  plant,  but  it 
is  rather  difficult  to  make  clear  in 
writing. 

While  the  plants  are  in  active 
growth  and  swelling  their  fruit 
freely  they  must  be  liberally 
supplied  with  water,  weak  manure 
being  applied  alternately  with  clean 
water  until  the  fruit  has  grown  to 
its  full  size,  when  clean  water  only 
should  be  given,  and  that  in  less 
volume  than  before,  or  there  is 
danger  of  the  fruit  splitting.  As 
the  fruit  shows  signs  of  ripeness, 
less  water  still  must  be  applied, 
but  the  soil  should  not  be  allowed 
to  become  dust  dry  even  at  this 
time.  In  watering  particular  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  wet  the  stems 
of  the  plants,  and  the  same  pre- 
caution must  be  taken  in  83T:inging, 
or  canker  and  rot  of  the  stems  will 
take  place,  jeopardising  the  safety 
of  the  orop.  The  foUage  of  the 
plants  should  be  copiously  syringed 
twice  a  day  on  warm  days,  but 
not  80  freely  in  dull,  cold  weather 
— in  the  morning  about  8  a.m.  and 
in  the  afternoon  about  3.30  p.m., 
closing  the  house  up  with  a  moist 
sun  temperature  of  from  80°  to  84° 
Fahr.  Generally  speaking,  a  mini- 
mum temperature  of  65°  at  night, 
and  a  maximum  of  75°  by  day, 
without  sun-heat,  should  be  maintained.  In 
surmy  weather  little  or  no  fire-heat  is  required  in 
the  daytime,  but  at  night  the  necessary  high 
temperature  must  be  kept  up  by  its  aid. 

Supporting  the  fruits  is  best  done  by  placing 
small  nets  under  them  and  fastening  them 
to  the  trellis.  The  ripening  process  must 
be  carefully  watched  and  the  fruit  cut  some 
days  before  it  is  quite  ripe,  preserving  the  stalks 
intact  for  the  length  of  3  inches.  Among  the 
green-fleshed  varieties  I  consider  Royal  Jubilee 
to  be  one  of  the  best.  Among  the  white-fleshed 
varieties  there  are  few  better  than  Frogmore 
Orange  and  Hero  of  Lookinge.  Of  the  red-fleshed 
sorts  Blenheim  Orange  is  still  one  of  the  best. 
Syon  House  and  Frogmore  Scarlet  are  both 
excellent.  Owen  Thomas. 


128 


THI:    GARDEN. 


[Makch  13,  1909. 


QARDENI NG      FOR      'BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— The  exceedingly 
frosty  and  snowy  weather  experienced 
recently  has  kept  work  at  a  standstill 
in  all  outdoor  departments,  and  con- 
sequently there  is  much  in  the  way  of 
dividing  and  replanting  still  to  be 
done.  Growth  of  many  herbaceous  plants  is  now 
active,  and  replanting  must  not  be  further  de- 
layed. The  sowing  of  Sweet  Peas  in  the  open 
must  also  be  pushed  on,  especially  if  early  flowers 
are  desired.  Young  plants  in  pots  will  need 
growing  on  as  sturdy  as  possible,  and  with  this 
end  in  view  keep  them  near  the  glass  and  venti- 
late freely  whenever  possible.  Bulbs  such  as 
Tulips,  Hyacinths  and  Dafifodils  tliat  are  showing 
well  up  above  the  soil  will  be  much  benefited  if 
the  ground  between  them  is  lightly  stirred  with 
a  Dutch  hoe,  but  the  greatest  care  must  be  exer- 
cised that  no  soil  gets  into  the  centres  of  the 
plants,  else  considerable  damage  will  be  done. 
If  not  already  attended  to  some  stakes  about 
1  foot  long  and  rather  thicker  than  a  lead  pencil 
should  be  prepared  for  the  Hyacinths ;  they 
should  be  painted  a  nice  quiet  shade  of  green. 
The  flowers  are  sure  to  need  these  supports  in  a 
few  weeks'  time. 

VeyetahU  Oarden. — A  good-sized  sowing  of  an 
early  wrinkled  Pea  may  be  made  now,  and  con- 
sidering the  past  weather  it  is  very  probable  that 
the  crop  from  these  will  be  ready  quite  as  soon 
as  from  those  sown  earlier.  Sow  moderately 
thickly  and  not  more  than  1  inch  deep.  Autumn- 
planted  Cabbages  will  now  be  making  new  growth, 
and  this  will  be  greatly  facilitated  by  frequent 
hoeings  and  light  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda 
or  sulphate  of  ammonia,  a  teaspoonful  of  either 
being  sufficient  for  four  plants.  It  should  be 
finely  crushed  and  sprinkled  round,  not  on,  the 
plants  before  hoeing,  the  latter  operation  working 
it  into  the  soil.  The  same  remarks  apply  with 
equal  force  to  Lettuces  sown  or  planted  last 
autumn.  A  good  sowing  of  Carrots  should  be 
made  if  not  already  done,  following  on  the  lines 
advised  in  a  recent  calendar.  If  wireworms  are 
suspected  treat  the  soil  with  Kilogrub  ;  last  year 
I  used  this  with  complete  success,  not  a  root 
being  injured,  although  grown  in  soil  where  the 
pest  had  previously  given  considerable  trouble. 
Sow  Radishes.  Lettuces  and  Onions,  if  not  already 
done.  Of  the  first-named  choose  one  of  the 
many  excellent  stump-rooted  varieties  that  are 
now  on  the  market  and  resemble  the  old  French 
Breakfast  in  every  respect  except  colour.  A 
Cabbage  Lettuce  should  be  selected  at  this  early 
season,  a  superb  all-round  variety  being  Carter's 
Holborn  Standard.  This  has  a  large,  solid,  crisp 
heart  and  beats  many  of  the  Cos  varieties  for 
quality.  Celery  for  the  late  crop  may  now  be 
sown  in  shallow  boxes  and  placed  in  slight  warmth. 
I  have  raised  excellent  plants  by  sowing  in  a 
warm  situation  outdoors,  but  this  procedure  is 
rather  risky.  If  it  must  be  adopted  tread  the 
soil  firm  after  sowing  the  same  as  adopted  for 
Onion  beds. 

Fruit  Oardtn. — Strawberry  plants  will  now  or 
shortly  be  pushing  new  leaves  from  their  centres, 
and  all  weeds  should  be  hoed  up  and  raked  off, 
so  as  to  make  the  beds  as  clean  and  tidy  as 
possible.  The  plants  will  be  benefited  by  this 
stirring  of  the  soil,  but  do  not  let  the  hoe  go 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  crown  of  the  plant, 
else  many  surface  and  valuable  roots  will  be 
destroyed.  I  prefer  to  leave  the  mulching  until 
early  in  April,  using  the  rather  long  strawy 
manure  for  the  purpose.  If  for  any  reason  new 
beds  were  not  planted,  the  work  may  be  done 
now,  but  a  crop  of  fruit  must  not  be  expected 


from  the  plants  this  summer.  Raspberries, 
which  should  have  been  pruned  and  tied  last 
autumn,  may  be  given  a  good  mulching  of 
partially  decayed  farmyard  manure,  placing  this 
along  each  side  of  the  row  or  round  the  clump 
about  4  inches  thick.  Where  this  cannot  be 
procured,  Wakeley's  Patent  Hop  Manure  makes 
an  excellent  substitute,  as,  unlike  ordinary 
artificial  manures,  this  is  rich  in  humus. 

Greenhoum  and  Frames. — As  the  sun  is  now 
becoming  more  powerful  the  plants  growing  in 


-THE  FIRST  ILLUSTRATION  ON  THE  LEFT  REPKESKNTIS 
AN  UNPREPARED  SCION,  THE  SECOND  A  SCION 
PARTIALLY  PREPARED,  THE  LOWER  PART  BEINCl 
CUT  2  INCHES  TO  3  INCHES  IN  A  SLANTINCJ  DIREC- 
TION. THE  ILLUSTRATION  ON  THE  EXTRE.ME  RIOHT 
IS  THE  SCION  PROPERLY  PREPARED.  THE  STOCK, 
REPRESENTED  BY  THE  STOUT  GROWTH,  SHOWS  THE 
LONGITUDINAL  CUT  THROUGH  THE  BARK  INTO 
WHICH   THE  SCION   IS  IN.SERTED. 


greenhouses  and  frames  will  need  more  air  and 
water,  but  with  newly-potted  subjects  the 
atmosphere  should  be  kept  rather  close  and 
humid  for  a  few  days  until  roots  have  per- 
meated the  new  soil.  Watering,  too,  in  this 
case  must  be  done  very  carefully,  as  roots  will 
not  enter  new  soil  that  is  sodden  and, 
consequently,  devoid  of  air.  iSeedlings  of  all 
descriptions  must  be  pricked  off  without  delay 
as  they  become  large  enough.  Generally  speak- 
ing, boxes  or  pans  some  3  inches  deep  are  the 
best  receptacles  for  the  purpose,  and  the 
seedlings  should  be  placed  from  '2  inches  to 
.'!  inches  apart  each  way,  according  to  their 
habits. 


CROWN    OR    RIND    GRAFTING. 

Last  week  we  dealt  somewhat  fully  with  whip 
or  tongue  grafting,  but  in  the  present  instance 
we  are  showing  how  crown  or  rind  grafting  may 
be  satisfactorily  accomplished.  A  good  time  to 
carry  out  the  work  in  the  South  of  England  is 
during  March  and  April,  commencing  operations 
in  the  middle  of  the  former  month  and  con- 
cluding as  soon  as  possible  in  the  latter.  Those 
readers  whose  gardens  are  situated  in  the  North 
had  better  do  their  grafting  during  the  first 
half  of  April.     In  the  meantime  take  the  earliest 


opportunity  of  procuring  the  necessary  scions  or 
grafts,  laying  them  in  the  soil  in  a  cool  border 
until  required.  The  growths  from  which  the 
most  desirable  scions  are  obtained  are  healthy 
shoots  of  last  year's  growth  of  moderate  size. 

Crown  or  rind  grafting  is  a  capital  method  of 
dealing  with  large  trees,  as  the  size  of  the  stock 
is  of  little  consequence.  Seedling  trees  are  more 
often  used  as  the  stock  for  grafting  purposes,  but 
Apple  or  Pear  trees  of  worthless  or  inferior 
varieties  may  be  refurnished  with  new  growths 
by  grafting  on  them  scions  of  newer  and  choicer 
varieties.  It  is  well  to  remember,  however, 
that  young  stocks  are  more  often  ready  for 
grafting  some  ten  days  to  a  fortnight  earlier 
than  old  trees.  There  is  a  great  deal  in  knowing 
just  when  to  begin  grafting ;  and  that  the 
beginner  may  be  assisted  in  determining  how 
soon  to  commence,  it  is  necessary  to  make 
frequent  observations  and  not  to  graft  until 
there  is  evidence  that  the  sap  is  flowing  freely 
in  the  stock.  Another  point  to  remember  is  to 
out  through  or  saw  off  the  branches  to  within 

1  foot  or  thereabouts  of  the  main  trunk  of  the 
tree  before  the  sap  rises,  say,  as  early  as  possible 
in  the  year,  or  at  least  some  time  before  the 
grafting  is  to  be  done.  Some  workers  recom- 
mend that  the  stock  be  cut  obliquely,  but  we 
fail  to  see  the  advantage  of  this,  and  invariably 
make  the  cut  straight  through. 

Fig.  1  shows  the  scion  and  its  preparation  for 
grafting,  and  the  way  to  deal  with  the  stock  for 
a  like  purpose.  Scions  that  are  6  inches  or 
rather  longer  after  preparation  are  a  very  good 
length.  In  the  preparatory  work  the  scion,  as 
represented  on  the  left  of  the  figure,  is  out  off 
at  the  head  in  a  slanting  manner,  finishing  the  cut 
about  half  an  inch  above  the  uppermost  bud. 
Three  or  more  good  buds  should  be  retained  on 
each  scion  at  its  upper  end,  and  the  lower  part 
should  be  cut  in  a  slanting  direction,  2  inches  to 
8  inches  long  and  tapering  thinly  down  to  the 
bottom.  The  second  illustration  on  the  left  in 
Fig.  1  gives  a  good  indication  how  this  slanting 
out  should  be  made.  The  finished  scion  is  very 
clearly  depicted  on  the  extreme  right  of  this 
same  figure.  The  tapering  character  of  the 
lower  part  of  the  scion  is  clearly  defined,  and 
what  is  of  some  importance  is  the  shoulder-cut 
made  halfway  through  the  scion  to  fit  the  top  of 
the  stock  when  the  former  is  adjusted  in  position. 
A  sharp  budding  knife  is  an  essential  factor  in 
successfully  trimming  the  grafts,  carelessness  in 
this  respect  jeopardising  a  successful  issue  to 
this  important  operation.  The  stout  stem  of  the 
stock  is  easily  distinguished  in  this  figure.  To 
prepare  this  tor  grafting  it  is  necessary  to  make 
a   longitudinal   cut    through   the  bark   between 

2  inches  and  3  inches  in  length.  Preparatory  to 
the  insertion  of  the  scion,  gently  raise  the  bark 
on  either  side  of  the  out  and  insert  a  hard  wood 
wedge,  shaped  like  the  scion  but  of  rather  less 
size.  Insert  the  wedge  at  the  top,  as  nearly  as 
possible  in  the  centre  of  the  cut,  taking  care 
that  it  is  pushed  down  between  the  wood  and 
the  bark  to  within  about  half  an  inch  of  the 
bottom  of  the  cut  part  of  the  stock.  The  chief 
factor  of  success  at  this  period  is  to  see  that  the 
white  sap  wood  of  the  stock  is  made  to  meet  that 
of  the  scion.  The  latter  should  fit  well,  and  the 
shoulder  of  the  scion  already  referred  to  should 
rest  on  the  top  of  the  stock. 

Fig.  2  shows  three  scions  adjusted  in  position. 
We  would  again  remind  readers  that  it  may  be 
preferable  in  some  instances  to  graft  one,  two  or 
three  to  suit  the  needs  of  individual  growers,  but 
if  the  size  of  the  stock  permits  it  is  customary 
to  graft  more  than  one  scion. 

Fig.  3  illustrates  a  most  important  piece  of 
work.  The  scions  must  be  securely  tied  in  posi- 
tion, and  this  must  be  done  with  some  care  and 


Maroh  13,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


129 


intelligence.  The  material  for  binding  may  be 
either  a  stout  and  reliable  raffia  or  string  of  a 
nature  that  will  not  bruise  the  bark.  The  method 
of  tying  may  be  seen  at  a  glance  in  the  accom- 
panying illustration. 

The  final  operation  in  crown  grafting  is  what 
is  known  as  claying.  A  simple  covering  is  made 
of  clay  as  advised  last  week.  Fig.  4  aptly 
illustrates  the  method.  It  is  extremely  im- 
portant that  this  portion  of  the  work  be 
well  done,  as  the  surroundings  of  the  grafts 
must  be  rendered  quite  air-tight.  D.  B.  C. 


HOW  TO  GROW  THE  FLORIST'S 
RANUNCULUS. 
Old-jashioned,  stiff  and  ugly  are  only  a  few  of 
the  epithets  that  have  been  hurled  at  the  florist's 
Ranunculus  (R.  asiaticus)  in  the  past ;  y et  through 
a  most  vigorous  period,  wherein  new  introductions 
have  been  made  at  a  tremendous  rate,  these  flowers 
have  retained  a  hold  on  at  least  a  section  of  the 
flower-loving  public,  and  signs  are  not  wanting 
that  they  are  once  again  creeping  into  general 
favour,  although  their  culture  seems  to  be  much 
less  understood  than  it  was  a  decade  or  two  ago. 
The  finest  flowers  the  writer  has  ever  seen  were 
annually  grown  in  the  garden  of  an  old  cottager 
in  Essex — indeed,  so  fine  were  they  that  details 
of  their  culture  were  solicited  and  given  in  that 
spirit  of  freedom  so  characteristic  of  the  true 
gardener,  and  for  the  benefit  of  others  they 
are  appended  herewith. 

During  the  winter,  before 
Christmas  if  possible,  the  ground 
was  thoroughly  broken  up  two 
spits  deep,  and  with  this  was 
incorporated  a  heavy  dressing  of 
cow-manure  which  the  old  fellow 
had  assiduously  collected  from 
the  roads  the  previous  summer, 
containing  a  good  percentage  of 
coarse  sand,  the  roads  in  the 
district  being  constructed  with 
gravel  and  not  much  frequented 
by  motor-vehicles.  This  manure 
was  thrown  into  a  heap  as  col- 
lected, and  there  left  till  required. 
The  middle  of  February  was  the 
time  for  a  forking  over  of  the 
surface  of  the  bed,  breaking  any 
lumps  encountered,  so  that  a  fine 
tilth  was  ensured  ready  for  plant- 
ing, which  was  always  done  the 
last  week  in  February  if  the 
outside  conditions  were  at  all 
favourable. 

Drills  were  made  about 
9  inches  apart  and  3  inches 
deep,  and  in  the  bottom  of  each 
a  thin  layer  of  sharp  road-sand 
was  placed,  the  tubers  next  being 
stood  in  position  about  4  inches 
asunder  with  the  claws  down- 
wards. These  next  received  a 
heavy  sprinkling  of  sand,  and 
then  the  natural  soil  was  returned 
aad  the  surface  raked  level. 
During  dry  weather  the  beds 
were  thoroughly  watered,  and  as 
soon  as  flowering  oommenoed,  or  rather  when 
the  buds  were  swelling,  weekly  applications  of 
weak  cow-manure  were  given. 

After  flowering,  and  when  the  leaves  had  turned 
quite  yellow,  the  tubers  were  lifted  and  stored 
for  the  winter  in  dry  soil  in  a  cool  shed ,  the  frost 
being  just  kept  away.  Those  who  have  a  liking 
for  these  old-fashioned  flowers  might  well  give 
the  above  system  of  cultivation  a  trial,  as  it 
answers  equally  as  well  for  the  Persian  and 
Turkish  varieties  as  for  the  French.  There  are, 
of  course,  some  most  gorgeous  colours  obtainable 
in  these  plants.  Owing  to  the  intensely  cold 
weather  recently  experienced  there  is  still  time 
for  planting  to  be  done  ;  indeed,  some  cultivators 
prefer  waiting  until  the  middle  of  March  before 
putting   in   the   tubers.     In   any   case    planting 


ought  not  to  be  delayed  later  than  the  end 
March.  H. 


of 


HOW  TO   MANAGE  A  HOT-BED   FRAME. 

A  HOT-BED  frame  is  one  of  the  moat  useful  of  all 
appliances  in  the  garden  for  growing  early  crops 
in  spring.  Such  a  frame,  however,  requires  very 
careful  management.  The  heat  in  the  hot-bed 
must  be  regular.  If  the  material  is  wrongly 
prepared  it  will  heat  violently  for  a  short  time 
and  then  fail,  because  it  has  become  spent.  Now, 
if  inexperienced  cultivators  of  various  kinds  of 
plants  suitable  for  raising  in  a  frame  make  up  a 
bed  of  this  kind,  they  run  several  risks,  the  two 
greatest  of  which  are  scalding  the  foliage  from 
overheating  of  the  material  at  first,  and  of 
losing  seedlings  and  plants  afterwards  through 
the  sudden  cooling  of  the  bed  when  the  heat  is 
spent.  Such  unsuitable  beds  are  the  result  of 
putting  together  the  littery  manure  too  soon, 
before  it  has  been  sweetened. 

The  litter  must  be  spread  out  thinly  every  day 
as  it  is  gathered  fresh  from  the  stables  (never  use 
litter  from  a  large  heap  which  has  turned  white 
inside  through  excessive  heating)  and  be  turned 
over  every  morning.  When  a  sufficient  quantity 
has  been  collected,  throw  it  up  into  one  large 
heap  and  allow  it  to  remain  so  for  twenty-four 
hours  ;  then  open  out  the  material  again  and  so 
get  rid  of  the  burning  gases.  If  the  heap  is  large 
it  may  be  treated  again  in  the  same  way,  and 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


THE  STOCK  WITH  THREE 
SCIONS  ADJUSTED  IN 
POSITION. 


-THE  STOCK  AND  SCIONS 
BOUND  WITH  RAFFIA 
TO  KEEP  THEM  SEOUKE. 


4.— THE  .JUNCTION  COVERED 
WITH  CLAY  TO  KEEP  THE 
WHOLE  AIR-TIQHT, 


afterwards  put  up  to  form  the  bed.  There  will 
not  be  any  danger  from  burning  and  overheating 
afterwards,  and  the  temperature  of  the  bed  will 
be  comparatively  high  and  regular  for  a  long 
time. 

Leave  a  small  opening  at  the  top  of  the  frame 
for  the  escape  of  steam  arising  from  the  bed, 
and  always  cover  the  glass  at  night  with  mats  to 
conserve  the  heat  in  the  frame.  Do  not  tread 
upon  the  sides  of  the  hot-bed,  as  this  results  in  the 
material  being  displaced  and  becoming  too  wet 
when  rains  come ;  this  cools  the  temperature. 
Ventilate  always  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  frame 
to  that  from  which  the  wind  blows  when  it  is 
necessary  to  admit  air.  Those  plants  requiring 
the  most  heat  must  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
frame.  Shamkock. 


Delphiniums  and  Slugs. — In  sheltered  borders 
the  young  crowns  of  Delphiniums  are  swelling 
rapidly,  and  every  precaution  must  be  taken  to 
preserve  them  from  the  attacks  of  slugs.  These 
pests  have  a  great  partiality  for  the  young  leaves 
and  crowns  ;  in  many  instances  I  have  seen  the 
latter  hollowed  out  as  cleanly  as  though  a  person 
had  used  a  knife  for  the  purpose.  Of  course, 
when  the  crowns  are  so  eaten  they  are,  in  most 
cases,  quite  spoiled.  The  main  crown  will  not 
grow  freely,  but  small  side  ones  do,  and  these 
are  not  strong  enough  to  bear  satisfactory  spikes 
of  flowers.  Do  not  wait  for  the  slugs  to  eat  a 
number  of  the  plants,  but  forthwith  scatter  some 
very  fine  dry  ashes  on  the  surface  of  the  border, 
especially  on  the  crowns  themselves.  The  ashes 
are  sharp  and  slugs  cannot  crawl  over  them  with 
freedom,  so  that  the  plants  remain  secure. 
When  about  6  inches  of  new  growth  has  been 
made,  it  is  quite  safe  from  slugs,  and  as  the  new 
stems  grow  quickly  not  more  than  one  covering 
of  ashes  will  be  necessary. 

Calceolablas  in  Frames.  —  Bedding  -  out 
Calceolarias  growing  in  cool  frames  will  now 
require  attention.  Cuttings  which  were  inserted 
late  last  autumn  have  not  made  many  roots  up 
to  the  present  time,  but  root-action  will  be  rapid 
from  now  onwards.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  pinch 
off  the  point  of  each  young  plant  at  once,  then 
side  shoots  will  grow  in  due 
course  and  the  plants  become 
bushy  and  very  strong.  The 
plants  will  withstand  cold  weather 
very  well ;  they  are  never  satis- 
factory when  grown  in  warm 
quarters  during  the  winter-time. 
The  hardily  grown  specimens 
always  give  satisfaction.  The 
town  gardener  may  succeed  with 
Calceolarias  in  winter-time  better 
than  with  many  other  kinds  of 
bedding-out  subjects.  These  and 
Marguerite  I>aisies  ought  to  be 
largely  propagated  in  frames  in 
the  autumn.  People  who  have 
not  hitherto  grown  these  two 
useful  town  plants  should  make 
provision  for  doing  so  next 
autumn,  and  if  they  watch  the 
pages  of  The  Garden  they  will 
find  helpful  hints  bearing  on  the 
subject] 

The  Use  op  Sweet  Leaf-soil. 
A  quantity  of  nice,  sweet  leaf- 
soil  ought  to  be  kept  in  every 
town  garden.  More  or  less  must 
be  stored  according  to  require- 
ments. In  large  gardens  a  good- 
sized  heap  will  be  necessary, 
whereas  in  a  small  one  a  peek  of 
leaf-soil  may  be  sufficient.  It  is 
very  useful  for  mixing  with  loam 
which  is  intended  for  seeds  and 
seedlings  of  annuals,  and  also  for 
a  few  pot  plants.  In  clayey 
borders  where  herbaceous  plants 
are  grown,  a  handful  of  leaf-soil 
placed  around  the  roots  of  a  newly  planted 
specimen  will  give  a  decided  impetus  to  the 
growth  of  that  plant.  The  leaf-soil  acts  in 
the  fqllowing  way:  When  a  plant  is  lifted, 
whether  from  the  nursery  or  the  home  garden,  a 
number  of  roots  are  exposed,  and  in  many 
instances  badly  crippled  ;  they  do  not  readily 
enter  the  cold,  clayey  soil  of  the  border,  but 
quickly  permeate  the  leaf-soil,  so  that  there  is 
no  serious  check  to  the  growth,  and  as  the 
season  advances  and  the  border  soil  becomes 
warmer  the  roots  of  the  new  plants  enter  it 
freely. 

Stakes  and  Labels. — Do  not  throw  away  old 
stakes  nor  long  labels  which  have  been  used  in 
pots  and  beds.  Simply  cut  off  the  decaying  ends, 
when  both    the  stakes  and   the   labels   will   be 


130 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  13,  1909. 


useful  for  smaller  plants  again.  Paiut  the  stakes 
with  green  paint,  both  new  and  old  ones,  as 
they  present  a  much  better  appearance  than 
those  that  are  not  painted.  Tie  up  all  stakes  in 
bundles  of  various  lengths  and  then  they  will  be 
ready  for  use  when  required,  which  will  pro- 
bably be  at  a  busy  time.  Thousands  of  plants 
are  spoiled  every  year  through  neglect  as  regards 
staking,  and  where  the  plants  are  neatly  labelled 
an  added  interest  is  given  to  them. 

Border  Chrysanthbmdms.  —  Few  border 
plants  are  more  hardy  than  these,  and  as  they 
blossom  at  a  time  when  flowers  for  cutting  are 
none  too  plentiful,  it  behoves  the  town  gardener 
to  see  to  the  propagation  of  young  stock,  or  the 
due  division  of  the  old  roots.  It  is  a  very  good 
plan  to  lift  the  old  roots  at  this  season,  divide 
them  carefully  and  then  place  the  healthiest 
shoots  in  a  bed  of  leaf-soil,  loam  and  sand  in  a 
cool  frame,  or  even  in  such  a  bed  in  one  corner 
of  the  garden.  New  roots  will  soon  grow, 
and    the     cultivator    can     replant     the     young 


specimens. 


Avos. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOK    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fbuit   Houses. 

VINERIES.— Attend  carefully  to  all 
Vines  in  later  stages  of  development 
by  timely  thinning  superfluous  shoots 
and  bunches,  tying  down  gradually 
the  laterals  and  stopping  them  at  two 
joints  above  where  the  bunches  show. 
Be  very  careful  not  to  pull  down  the  growths 
too  much  at  one  time,  especially  in  sunny 
weather,  when  they  are  more  limp,  otherwise, 
during  the  night  following,  some  of  the  best  and 
the  most  promising  may  snap  at  the  heel.  In  late 
houses.  Lady  Downe's,  Alicantes  and  Appley 
Towers  will  soon  be  on  the  move,  and  as  soon  as 
growth  is  visible  close  the  ventilator  and  begin 
to  syringe  the  rods  twice  daily,  keeping  the  night 
temperature  at  about  50°.  Examine  all  borders 
to  ascertain  whether  the  roots  require  water. 
If  dry,  give  sutticient  to  thoroughly  moisten 
the  whole  of  the  soil  in  preference  to  frequent 
dribbles.  Let  the  water  be  applied  in  a 
tepid  state,  and  make  a  note  of  the  date  and 
the  quantity  supplied  for  reference. 

Goid  Peach  Houses.  —The  trees  in  these  will  now 
be  fast  swelling  their  buds,  but  growth  should  not 
be  hurried  for  the  present.  It  is  better  to  keep 
them  back  as  much  as  possible  till  the  danger  of 
severe  frost  is  past.  If  the  borders  were  well 
watered,  top-dressed  and  mulched  at  the  time  of 
pruning  and  dressing  the  trees,  no  more  water 
will  be  necessary  till  the  flowering  period  is  past. 
All  trees  should  be  kept  free  from  green  aphis 
by  timely  fumigating,  either  before  or  after  the 
flowering  period,  and  when  the  fruits  are  well 
formed.  At  such  critical  periods  it  is  better  to 
fumigate  twice  lightly  than  to  run  any  risk  of 
damaging  the  future  crop  by  an  overdose. 

Pigs. — When  thinning  and  pruning  these,  be 
careful  to  leave  plenty  of  sturdy,  short-jointed 
fruitful  wood,  and  only  shorten  back  those  pieces 
not  required  for  fruiting  this  season.  When 
planting  the  Fig  the  border  should  be  somewhat 
restricted  and  the  soil  good,  but  made  very  firm. 
A  mixture  of  loam,  plenty  of  old  brick  mortar, 
wood-ashes  and  well-decayed  manure  used  rather 
sparingly  if  the  loam  is  full  of  fibre  makes  a 
good  compost.  Brown  Turkey  is  one  of  the  most 
reliable  varieties,  although  there  are  others  which 
fruit  well  under  glass.  They  must  have  plenty 
of  room  for  extension,  otherwise  the  roots  must 
be  manipulated  at  intervals  to  check  exuberant 
growth.  Figs  in  pots  will  require  well  feeding, 
and  should  be  kept  growing  in  a  warm,  moist 
temperature. 


Melons.  — These  raised  from  seed  sown  a  month 
ago  will  be  ready  to  plant  out.  Let  the  bottom- 
heat  be  about  80°,  and  the  soil  firm  and  rather 
heavy.  Plant  on  little  mounds,  and  train  the 
leaders  singly  till  they  have  attained  the  height 
of  3  feet  to  4  feet,  when  they  may  be  stopped  to 
furnish  fruit-bearing  laterals.  Keep  the  tem- 
perature at  70°  by  night,  allowing  a  rise  of  10" 
by  day  with  sun-heat.  Syringe  early  after 
dinner  and  keep  the  plants  growing  sturdily  on. 

Plant  Houses. 

Azalea  indica. — These  should  be  well  syringed 
to  keep  the  foliage  clean  and  to  encourage 
the  flowers  to  expand.  Those  which  may  have 
bloomed  and  need  repotting  may  be  at  once 
attended  to.  Use  clean,  dry  pots,  well  drained, 
and  a  compost  of  tough,  fibrous,  sand3'  peat,  a 
little  sandy  loam,  pieces  of  charcoal  and  plenty 
of  grit.  Let  the  repotting  be  firm,  and  stand 
the  plants  where  the  heat  and  moisture  are  suffi- 
cient to  encourage  root  and  top  growth. 

Heaths  and  Epacrises.  — When  potting  these  see 
that  the  soil  is  rammed  very  firmly,  and  do  not 
give  too  large  a  shift  at  one  time.  After  the 
flowering  is  over  and  previous  to  repotting  they 
may  be  pruned  into  shape,  and  afterwards  en- 
couraged to  make  strong,  fresh  growth  to  produce 
good  flowers. 

Hoses. — All  plants  that  are  making  good  growth 
and  showing  bloom  need  careful  watching.  Fumi- 
gate if  green  fly  puts  in  an  appearance.  Batches 
introduced  after  this  date  should  bloom  more 
freely.  A  little  feeding  with  liquid  manure  or 
some  approved  patent  manure  will  greatly  assist 
the  size  of  the  flowers  and  the  health  and  strengtli 
of  the  plants  generally. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR  THE  NORTH  AND  NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Mushroom  House. 

Fob  beds  in  bearing  a  temperature  of  about  55° 
is  ample,  and  as  the  manure  will  have  lost  most 
of  its  warmth,  overhead  watering  must  be  very 
carefully  done.  Succession  beds  usually  go  from 
the  time  of  spawning  until  produce  appears 
without  watering  ;  but  should  the  material  become 
dry,  a  light  sprinkle  by  means  of  a  syringe  or  very 
fine  rose  is  preferable  to  any  other  mode,  and  the 
water  should  always  be  applied  at  a  temperature 
slightly  above  that  of  the  house.  Another  bed  may 
be  made  up,  as  in  the  usual  course  this  will  carry 
on  the  supply  for  three  months  longer,  after 
which  house-grown  Mushrooms  are  not  satisfac- 
tory. Manure  from  hard-fed  horses  is  best,  and 
this,  after  having  the  rougher  portions  removed, 
may  be  thrown  into  a  heap  under  cover  to 
generate  heat,  and  being  turned  a  few  times  at 
intervals  until  the  rank  gases  are  dispersed,  may 
be  placed  in  position  and  made  quite  firm  ;  a 
depth  when  finished  of  15  inches  is  sufficient. 
Spawning  may  follow  when  the  thermometer 
indicates  that  the  maximum  temperature  has  been 
attained,  but  soiling  the  surface  is  best  deferred 
for  a  few  days  to  avoid  the  possibility  of  over- 
heating. 

Hardy  Fruit. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  that  were  pruned  and 
had  the  remaining  shoots  released  from  the  wall 
or  other  support,  with  the  view  of  retarding  the 
buds,  may  now  have  these  reseoured.  A  space 
of  about  4  inches  between  the  shoots  is  ample, 
and  whether  shreds  or  ties  are  used,  care  should 
be  taken  that  these  are  not  tight  and  are  not 
immediately  against  a  prominent  fruit-bud. 
Fungoid  diseases  and  blistering  of  the  foliage  are 
prevalent  evils  with  the  Peach  family  outside. 
Bordeaux  mixture  sprayed  upon  the  trees  imme- 
diately before  and  after  the  flowering  period 
mitigates  such  attacks  very  considerably.  Pro- 
tection in  some  form  should  be  provided  for  the 
trees  while  in  bloom.      Of  improvised  methods 


canvas  blinds  are  the  most  effective  and  con- 
venient to  apply  ;  but  if  branches  or  nets  are 
used,  these  should  be  secured  beyond  the  possi- 
bility of  their  getting  in  contact  with  the  trees 
in  windy  weather. 

Kitchen  Garden  Department. 

Sowing  Seeds. — All  kinds  of  green  plants  for 
transplanting  may  now  be  sown  upon  a  warm  and 
well-prepared  border,  covering  the  seeds  with 
half  an  inch  of  soil  and  making  it  firm.  Birds 
are  often  troublesome,  and  the  beds  should  be 
securely  netted  or,  previous  to  sowing,  the  seeds 
be  damped  and  rolled  in  red  lead  to  frustrate 
their  attentions.  Successional  sowings  of  Peas, 
Broad  Beans,  Parsnips,  Onions,  Parsley,  Radishes 
and  Carrots  should  be  made  from  time  to  time  ; 
the  main  crop  of  the  latter,  however,  is  best 
deferred  until  the  end  of  the  month.  Turnips 
sown  now  should  be  afforded  the  protection  of  a 
frame  or  spare  lights  to  ensure  usable  roots. 

Seakale. — This  useful  vegetable  is  not  a  success 
in  many  Northern  gardens ;  but  where  it  succeeds 
the  thongs  selected  some  time  ago  may  now  be 
planted  on  well-manured  and  deeply  worked 
ground,  in  lines  about  20  inches  apart,  keeping 
the  tops  just  below  the  surface  and  covering  each 
set  with  a  handful  of  coal-ashes  should  damage 
from  slugs  be  apprehended.  Established  plan- 
tations may  have  pots  placed  over  the  crowns, 
and  straw.  Fern,  or  fermenting  litter  and  leaves 
be  placed  around  to  exclude  light  and  stimulate 
growth. 

Flowbe   Garden    and    Lawns. 

Flower  Beds  and  Borders  unoccupied  by  plants 
may  now  be  put  in  order  for  the  approaching 
season  by  having  the  soil  enriched  by  manuring, 
or  changed  to  suit  the  subjects  intended  to  be 
planted.  Any  failures  among  spring- flowering 
plants  should  be  made  good  from  the  reserve 
garden,  and  all  made  firm  by  treading,  after 
which  stirring  the  surface  would  prove  beneficial. 

Lawns  and  Verges. — Removing  or  relaying 
turf  is  best  carried  out  before  the  dry,  harsh 
winds  of  spring  set  in.  Bowling,  tennis  and 
similar  games  played  upon  greensward  often 
cause  this  to  be  unduly  worn  in  places.  If 
fairly  level,  the  work  of  renovation  may  be 
accomplished  without  much  disturbance  of  the 
surface  by  spreading  around  a  quantity  of  rich, 
finely  sifted  soil  and  raking  or  brushing  the 
same  among  the  crowns  of  the  grasses  and  con- 
solidating by  rolling  afterwards.  If  from  lack 
of  nutriment  the  refreshing  verdure,  so  much 
appreciated,  is  absent,  a  dressing  of  bone-meal 
or  superphosphate  of  lime  in  quantities  of  from 
2oz.  to  4oz.  per  square  yard  may  now  be  given, 
preferably  in  conjunction  with  the  soil  men- 
tioned. James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

OaUoway  Hov.se,  Oarlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


THE    COLD    WEATHER. 

THE  unexpected  recent  heavy  and  wide- 
spread snowfall  has  come  to  all  who 
"garden"  as  an  object-lesson.  We 
have  in  our  ordinary  operations  become 
rather  hidebound  in  our  arrangements 
as  to  sowing,  cropping,  pruning, 
planting  and  general  garden  work ;  as  with 
us,  so  with  our  garden  calendars,  it  is  the 
rule  to  do  this,  that  or  the  other  because 
tradition  has  so  prescribed  it  to  be  done  at 
particular  periods.  Prior  to  the  snowfall  an 
eminent  member  of  the  Meteorological  Society 
told  us  there  had  been  in  the  soil  a  material 
fall  in  temperature,  and  that,  too,  at  the  end  of 
February.  Yet  had  the  snowfall  not  have 
occurred,  the  moment  frosts  had  disappeared  the 
work  of  sowing  and  planting  would  have  gone  on 
just  as  usual  without  that  fact  as  to  soil  tempe- 
rature being  in  the  slightest  degree  regarded. 
The  snow  came  to  check  what  would  have  been 
under  the  circumstances  an  unwise  practice  ;  but 


March  13,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


131 


it  left  behind  a  condition  of  things  worse  than  that 
which  previously  existed,  as  snow-water  is  ad- 
mittedly of  exceedingly  low  temperature  and  very 
near  to  the  frost  line.  Need  it  be  said  that  to  com- 
mit seeds,  Potatoes  or  roots  generally  to  soil  so 
cold  would  be  to  court  failure,  as  the  conditions  of 
temperature  essential  to  vegetative  existence  are 
necessarily  lacking.  It  does  not  seem  to  have 
occurred,  even  to  the  most  advanced  cultivator, 
that  in  such  atmospheric  conditions  as  now 
prevail  the  soil  temperature  should  be  ascertained, 
not  only  a  few  inches,  but  12  inches  in  depth. 
That  would  not  be  difficult  to  carry  out,  and  the 
result  or  test  should  furnish  a  good  guide  as  to 
the  times  for  cropping  such  soils.  The  great 
thing  now  is  to  secure  for  the  soil  all  possible 
new  warmth.  If  a  period  of  gloom  and  cloud 
follows  with  low  temperature,  the  soil  will  not  be 
affected  ;  if  the  sun  shines  out  warmly,  if  only 
for  a  few  hours  daily,  it  will  rapidly  regain 
warmth,  and  thus  in  a  few  days  be  restored 
to  its  normal  March  temperature. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  westerly  winds  bring 
soft,  genial  rains,  then,  too,  the  soil  would  regain 
warmth  ;  but  in  the  former  case,  the  soil  will  be 
enabled  more  rapidly  to  absorb  sun  warmth  it 
loosened  or  lightly  forked  over,  as  the  snowfall 
may  have  closed  the  air  passages  and  thus 
checked  atmospheric  absorption.  The  moral  of 
all  this  is  that  the  gardener,  no  matter  who  he 
may  be,  must  curb  his  impetuosity  and  exercise 
patience.  It  is  a  very  valuable  virtue,  and  is  so 
far  repaid  that  much  more  success  in  garden 
operations  now  is  likely  to  follow  a  policy  of 
waiting  for  genial  soil  and  atmospheric  conditions 
than  would  follow  impetuous  haste.  But  where 
there  is  one  or  more  frames,  or  a  greenhouse,  and 
soil  to  place  in  pots  has  been  kept  under  cover, 
not  only  may  Sweet  Peas,  Tomatoes,  Cauli- 
flowers, Cabbages,  Lettuces,  or  seeds  of  various 
tender  flowers,  such  as  Petunia,  Verbena  and 
Lobelia,  or  seeds  of  hardier  things,  like  Snap- 
dragon, Pentstemon,  annual  Carnation  .and 
Wallflower,  be  sown,  but  Potato  tubers  for 
planting,  set  up  in  shallow  boxes,  may  be  exposed 
to  light  to  sprout  early.  Dahlia  roots  may  also 
be  brought  from  their  winter  quarters  and  set 
thickly  in  shallow  boxes  with  soil  about  them  and 
be  watered,  also  be  induced  to  break  into 
growth  and,  if  desired,  furnish  cuttings  for 
propagation. 

Where  trees,  shrubs  or  Roses  are  to  be 
planted,  provided  no  heavy  rainfalls  occur  it 
will  help  to  expose  the  soil  to  warmer  air  all  the 
more  quickly  if  holes  for  the  reception  of  such 
plants  be  opened.  When  planting  can  be  safely 
done  under  more  favourable  conditions  of  tem- 
perature, it  can  be  done  all  the  more  expe- 
ditiously, and  the  change  the  roots  will  find  on 
being  transferred  from  cold  soil  to  that  which  is 
a  few  degrees  warmer  will  speedily  make  them 
active  and  be  of  great  benefit  to  the  subjects 
planted.  Thus  a  policy  of  patience  is  the 
winning  one  in  the  end.  A.  D. 


HYACINTHUS     AZUREUS. 

(Syn.  Muscaria). 

CNE  of  the  most  welcome  flowers  of 
^  the  early  months  of  the  year, 
I  companion  for  the  Crocua,  the 
■  Snowdrop,  the  Winter  Aconite 
'  and  other  delightful  heralds  of  our 
earliest  springtime,  is  the  tur- 
quoise blue  flowered  Hyacinthus  azureus,  or,  as 
it  is  not  infrequently  known,  Muscaria  azureum. 
It  often  pushes  its  sweet  little  pyramids  of 
blue  through  the  ground  while  frost  may  still  be 
expected,  holding  its  dainty  spikes  above  the 
morning  rime.  Three  inches  or  so  in  height 
and  turquoise  blue  in  colour,  this  veritable 
harbinger  of  spring  may  be  seen  quite  early  in 
February  forcing  its  way  through  the  soil.  No 
one  to  whom  I  have  shown  this  hardy  flower  has 
failed  to  admire  it. 


Within  touch  or  shelter  of  a  shrub  protecting 
it  from  north  and  east  the  plant  always  blooms 
early,  while  its  rapid  increase  and  simple  cul- 
tural requirements  serve  to  guarantee  its  worth 
or  demonstrate  its  fitness  for  a  much  larger  sphere 
of  usefulness  than  at  present  obtains.  Ridicu- 
lously cheap  by  the  hundred  or  thousand,  the 
plant  might  be  advantageously  used  on  banks  or 
sunny  slopes  where  thin  grass  or  elastic  sod  would 
admit  of  its  sending  forth  its  tiny  spikes  with 
impunity. 

To  make  a  brave  or  even  a  pretty  show  the 
plant  should  be  freely  dappled  over  the  turf  or 
spring  from  a  rocky  shelf  where  presently  the 
white  or  the  blue  of  the  Harebell  shall  come  ;  or, 
where  the  alpine  house  exists,  pans  of  it  at 
flowering  time  should  delight  the  eye,  while 
assisting  to  make  gay  the  structure  that  affords 
it  welcome  protection.  In  the  hardy  fernery  or 
sheltering  glade,  or  thinly  stretching  over  the 

grass  near 
wo  odland 
walks,  there 
is  ample  room 
for  this  sky 
blue  treasure; 
and,  indeed, 
there  is 
hardly  a  spot 
in  the  garden 
where  its 
clustering 
mi  niature 
bells  would 
not  be  seen  to 
advantage. 
It  is  not,  of 
course,  suited 
for  associa- 
tion  with 
coarse  her- 
bage, above 
which  it  could 
not  raise  its 
pigmy  heads 
of  flowers, 
but  it  may 
be  planted 
freely  in  almost  any  other  position.  There  is  a 
stronger-growing  variety  called  robustum,  and 
though  it  is  but  a  giant  of  inches  merely,  it  is 
quite  as  hardy  as  the  type.  There  is  nothing 
fastidious  about  it,  and  it  should  be  planted  in 
September  or  later  not  more  than  2  inches  deep, 
preferably  in  light  and  very  sandy  soils.  A  6-inch 
pan  will  hold  a  dozen  or  more  of  its  not  large 
bulbs  and  provide  its  owner  with  a  pretty  picture 
while  the  majority  of  things  are  still  asleep. 
Hampton  Hill.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 

MARCH. 

THE  SIX  MOST  POPULAR  OKCHIDS 
AND    HOW    TO   GROW    THEM. 


THE  PRETTY  LITTLE  HYACINTHUS 
AZURBUS. 


A  First  PrUe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS. 

A   Second  Priie   of  TWO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  Ptfae  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on  the  above 
subject. 
The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  The  Garden,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Wednesday,  March  31.  Both  amateur  and 
professional  gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Garden  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor   must  be 


written  upon  the  MS.,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSS.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
ieoiaion  is  final. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Ans^treps.— T'Ae  Editor  intends 
to  make  Thb  Gakder  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
X88i8ta/nce,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  loith  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
'* Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica' 
tions  should  be  clearly  otTWi  concisely  wrUten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  orily^  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THB 
Q-ARDEN,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
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The  na/me  and  address  of  the  se^ider  are  required  in 
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^  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Gladiolus    The    Bpide    {M.    L.    St. 

Auhyn). — The  plant  is  probably  Panax  Victoria, 
but  from  the  small  scrap  sent  we  are  not  certain. 
The  Gladioli  appear,  in  part  at  least,  to  be 
suflfering  from  frost,  and  others  appear  to  be 
suffering  from  a  species  of  fungus,  which  is  as 
fatal  in  its  results  as  the  frosts.  Of  this  latter 
we  are  by  no  means  absolutely  sure,  by  reason 
of  the  advanced  decay.  The  large  percentage  of 
losses,  however,  points  rather  to  the  frost,  and  if 
the  pots  of  bulbs  were  in  the  frame  during  the 
severe  frost  at  Christmas  time,  this  would 
account  for  much.  We  have  known  entire 
batches  of  thousands  to  be  ruined  in  this  way, 
althqugh  they  were  covered  with  a  moderate 
depth  of  litter. 

Foliagre  plants  (Fmihia).  —  If  you 
require  the  plants  for  summer  effect  only,  the 
Funkias  would  do  quite  well,  but  being  gross- 
rooting  subjects  the  plants  would  require  a  good 
deal  of  attention  in  watering.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  a  plant  with  permanent  foliage  would  be 
more  valued,  you  could  hardly  do  better  than 
plant  Yucca  recurvifolia  in  the  tubs,  though 
Megasea  cordifolia  purpurea  would  answer 
admirably.  The  best  of  the  Funkias  are  F.  Sie- 
boldii,  with  bold,  glaucous  foliage,  or  F.  ovata 
maculata  aurea  which  is  very  handsome  when 
well  grown.  These  latter  would  require  the  most 
attention  of  those  we  have  named,  but  the  hand- 
some leaf-growth  is  worth  a  good  deal.  These 
plants  prefer  rich  soil  and  plenty  of  water  in 
summer  ;  the  others  named  prefer  a  less  rich  soil 
and  do  not  require  so  much  root  moisture.  A 
good  flowering  subject,  of  course,  would  be  the 
B'uchsia,  and  if  grown  in  pyramid  form  would 
produce  a  very  telling  efifeet.  These,  however, 
would  require  protection  in  winter. 

Water  Lilies  tor  pond  {N^mpha-a).— 
We  think  you  might  indulge  in  some  of  the 
free-growing  sorts,  arranging  these  at  long 
intervals  and  interspersing  them  with  others  of 
smaller  size.  The  following  are  all  good : 
Nymphsea  Marliacea  oarnea,  N.  M.  chromatella 
and  N.  M.  ignea.  These  would  do  for  the  larger 
positions.  Other  good  sorts  are  N.  liliaoea,  N. 
Laydekeri  rosea,  N.  L.  fulva,  N.  odorata  sul- 
phurea,  N.  o.  minor  and  N.  o.  alba.  N.  pygm.-ea 
is  the  smallest  of  the  Water  Lilies,  and  its 
variety  N.  p.  Helvola  is  interesting.  It  is  quite 
possible  that  N.  stellata,  the  blue  Water  Lily, 
would  succeed  with  you ;  at  any  rate,  it  is 
worthy  of  a  trial.  Place  a  bushel  or  two  of  soil 
ready  for  each  plant,  mark  the  position  by  a 
stick  and  sink  the  plant  on  the  soil  by 
weighting  it  down  with  a  stone.  March  and 
April  are  the  best  times  for  planting.  Your 
idea  for  treating  the  end  will  do  quite  well,  but 


132 


THE    GARDEN. 


[March  13,  1909. 


we  would  prefer  the  double  white  Arabia  for  a 
climax,  with  possibly  a  plant  or  two  of  Cotone- 
aster  horizontalis  draping  the  big  stones.  The 
Aubrietias,  too,  are  excellent  carpeting  plants, 
and  so  is  Campanula  muralis.  Tufts  of  Thrift 
wedged  against  the  sides  of  the  stones  would  be 
productive  of  good  effect. 

AFPane^ing:  bOPdePS  {Yorkshire).— 
There  is  no  need  to  do  away  with  the  central 
portion,  as  it  assists  to  break  up  the  formal  out- 
line of  the  borders  ;  a  group  of  the  variegated 
Maize  would  look  well  there.  Last  season  you 
appear  to  have  used  too  many  shades  of  colour, 
and  an  indiscriminate  mixture  rarely  is  good. 
You  might  for  this  year  try  the  effect  of  a 
white  Tufted  Pansy  for  a  groundwork,  and  over 
this  presently  plant  mauve-coloured  Chinese 
Asters,  with  occasional  plants  of  the  Summer 
Cypress  (Kochia)  to  relieve  the  monotony.  In 
the  centre,  in  addition  to  the  Maize  you  might 
arrange  the  Gladioli  and  carpet  the  groundwork 
with  deep  blue  Violas,  or  by  arranging  the  semi- 
circles alike  you  might  prefer  to  plant  white  and 
mauve-coloured  Asters  at  each  of  the  two  opposite 
ends,  using  white  and  blue  Violas  on  the  ground- 
work, and  carrying  the  plants  to  nearly  the  edge 
of  the  border.  In  this  way  you  simplify  matters 
and  secure  an  effect  which  is  easy  of  accom- 
plishment and  beautiful  withal. 

Plants  fOP  cut  flOWePS  {Percy).— 
With  the  exception  of  the  Delphiniums,  all  the 
plants  you  name  will  do  in  the  soil  referred  to. 
The  above-named  can  also  be  made  to  succeed  if 
you  can  add  road  grit  or  anything  likely  to 
lighten  the  soil.  The  Delphiniums  are  not  the 
best  of  things  to  last  in  water,  owing  to  the 
hollow  nature  of  their  stems.  Other  good  plants 
for  your  purpose  aresingleand  double Pyrethrums, 
Trollius,  Gaillardias,  Columbines,  Campanulas  of 
the  Peach-leaved  section,  Michaelmas  Daisies, 
Alstrcemerias,  perennial  Pea,  Montbretias, 
Achillea  The  Pearl  and  Flag  Irises.  All  the 
above  are  perennials,  and  succeed  quite  well  in 
any  well-dug  and  moderately  rich  garden  soil. 
You  might  also  freely  plant  the  border  Pinks  in 
variety.  Of  annuals  you  cannot  do  better  than 
sow  Sweet  Sultans,  Sweet  Peas,  Chrysanthemum 
ooronarium  in  variety.  Asters,  Stocks,  Shirley 
and  other  Poppies,  and  others.  The  perennials 
could  be  obtained  from  any  of  the  hardy  plant 
dealers,  and  the  annuals  from  any  of  the 
seedsmen  advertising  in  The  C4ardbn. 

Violets  diseased  (I7o/<(,  Surreij).— The  plants 
are  attacked  t»y  the  fungus  known  as  Urocystis  Viola;,  and 
your  only  present  remedy  is  to  collect  and  burn  all  the 
affected  leaves  and  spray  the  plants  with  sulphur  in 
solution  or  sulphide  of  potassium  at  the  rate  of  half  an 
ounce  to  two  gallons  of  rain-water.  Keep  the  frames 
freely  ventilated  and  stir  the  soil  about  the  plants,  sub- 
sequently giving  a  dressing  of  soot.  Unfortunately,  the 
disease  is  likely  to  occur  again,  and  the  plants  and  frame 
should  be  thoroughly  cleansed.  The  better  way  would  be 
to  discard  and  burn  the  plants  when  flowering  is  over, 
and  obtain  a  clean  stock  and  treat  as  above  on  preventive 
lines. 

Violets  ETOlng'  wrpong  (W.  A.  S.).— The  plants 
are  attacked  by  the  Violet  fungus  (Puccinia  Violae),  which 
is  one  of  the  most  troublesome  and  disfiguring  as  well  as 
destructive  pests  to  contend  with.  The  attack  has  nothing 
to  do  with  putting  air  on  the  frames,  though  a  confined 
condition  greatly  assists  the  development  of  the  disease. 
If  all  your  plants  are  as  badly  attacked  as  the  leaves  you 
sent,  we  can  only  recommend  that  you  collectand  burn  all 
the  affected  leaves  at  once;  indeed,  it  would  be  best  to 
burn  the  plants  entirely,  discard  the  soil,  and  thoroughly 
cleanse  the  frame  before  starting  with  a  fresh  lot.  In 
future  you  might  in  summer-time  spray  the  plants  with 
sulphide  of  potassium,  half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water, 
to  keep  the  disease  in  check. 

Selection  of  inexpensive  fancy  Pansles 
{A.  lughatii). — You  must  quite  understand  that  in  giving 
a  selection  of  inexpensive  fancy  Pansies  it  is  not  possible 
to  include  any  of  the  newer  sorts.  The  varieties  in 
the  subjoined  list,  however,  represent  those  of  good 
quality,  and  are  excellent  for  most  purposes.  To  grow 
Pansies  well,  the  ground  should  be  deeply  dug  and  heavily 
manured  at  the  time,  and  if  the  quarters  can  be  prepared 
at  once  and  the  surface  soil  left  in  a  rough  condition,  both 
frost  and  weather  will  do  it  incalculable  good  in  the 
interval  between  the  digging  and  the  planting.  Varieties : 
Colonel  M.  R.  F.  Buchanan,  Emmie  Bateman,  John 
Picken,  Maggie  Watson,  Mrs.  B.  Welb<mme,  John  Gillies, 
Henry  Stirling,  Mary  Philip,  Mrs.  John  Lister,  Kobert 
White,  Nurse  Eaglesome,  Sam  Craig,  W.  B.  Smellie, 
William  J.  Cupples,  Archie  Milloy,  A.  D.  Lister,  Colin  Pye, 


EffleR.  Wilson, GeorgeStewart,  James  Dodds,  Lord  Roberts, 
Mrs.  A.  B.  Douglas,  Miss  Neil  and  Provost  Thomson. 

Lathypus  magellanicus  (T.  A.  Diiinrs).—We 
fear  you  will  have  some  dirticultyin  getting  the  true  plant, 
and  if  you  have  tried  such  firms  as  Van  Houtte  of  Belgium, 
M.  E.  Benary  of  Germany  and  Thompson  and  Morgan  of 
Ipswich  without  success,  we  can  only  suggest  that  you 
write  to  the  curator,  Royal  Gardens,  Kew,  as  by  so  doing 
the  source  of  the  true  plants  you  saw  there  in  flower 
might  be  traced. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 
Shpubs    foP    apches    and    wall 

{J.  M.  <S.).— Climbing  Roses  suitable  for  your 
arches  are  Crimson  Rambler,  Philadelphia 
Rambler,  Hiawatha,  Helene,  Alberic  Barbier, 
Tea  Rambler,  Electra  and  TJna.  Other  plants 
suitable  for  the  position  are  Aristoloehia  Sipho, 
Jasminum  nudiflorum,  .J.  officinale,  Forsythia 
suspensa.  Wistaria  multijuga  alba.  Clematis 
Jackmanii,  C.  lanuginosa,  C.  Vitieella  and  their 
respective  varieties.  For  your  wall  the  following 
plants  are  suitable :  Eseallonia  macrantha, 
Ceanothus  rigidus,  C.  veitchianus,  Pninus  tri- 
loba fl.-pl.,  Chimonanthus  fragrans  grandiflora, 
Ribes  speciosum,  Garrya  elliptica  (the  male  form), 
Cydonia  japonica  and  Cotoneaster  anguatifolia. 
Roses  William  Allen  Richardson  and  Gloire  de 
Dijon  are  also  suitable. 

Pines  as  shelter  fop  exposed  g'arden 
(11.  r.).— Vou  cannot  do  better  than  stick  to  Austrian  and 
Scotch  Pines  for  your  shelter  belt,  with  Birch  and 
Mountain  .\sh  to  relieve  them.  It  is  doubtful  whether 
Cedrus  Deodara  would  be  a  success  in  the  position  you 
name,  and  it  is  really  better  to  confine  the  selection  to 
the  trees  recommended.  A  break  from  the  monotony  of 
the  Pines  can  be  made  by  planting  a  good  variety  of  trees 
inside  your  shelter  belt. 

ROSE    GARDEN. 

Tpansplantingr  foup  yeap  old 
Rose  bushes  (Roses). — If  the  work  is  carried 
out  early  in  the  autumn,  there  is  no  risk  in 
removing  sucli  plants ;  in  fact,  all  Roses  should 
be  periodically  transplanted  if  they  are  found  to 
be  growing  rather  indifferently.  We  advise  you 
to  prune  the  plants  back  hard,  say,  to  within  1  foot 
of  the  ground,  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  and 
dip  their  roots  immediately  into  some  thick 
puddle  made  by  stirring  up  clayey  soil  and 
water.  If  you  are  unable  to  replant  at  once,  heel 
the  plants  in  the  soil  under  a  north  wall  or  hedge, 
but  the  sooner  they  are  placed  in  their  permanent 
positions  the  better. 

Poptlon  of  dead  Rose  shoot  fop 

Inspection  {R.  G.  Baiky).— Judging  by  the 
portion  of  shoot  sent,  the  Rose  bush  must  have 
been  very  liadly  neglected  in  the  past.  The 
brown  protuberances  are  scale  insects  and  consti- 
tute one  of  the  worst  peats  that  attack  Roses 
under  glass.  Cut  out  and  bum  all  dead  portions, 
then  scrub  the  other  wood  with  one  of  the  many 
excellent  insecticides  now  on  the  market,  taking 
care  not  to  injure  the  buds.  You  must,  in 
scrubbing,  make  sure  that  all  the  brown  scales 
are  removed,  and  the  bush  will  need  careful 
watching  during  the  summer,  as  some  more  of  the 
insects  are  sure  to  appear.  We  have  never  seen 
a  shoot  so  badly  infested  as  that  you  send. 
Roses   in   a  town  gr&i'den  (Rus  in 

Urbe). — The  selection  you  have  planted  is  on  the 
whole  a  very  good  one,  the  only  exception  being 
Marquise  de  Mouatier.  This  is  a  very  fine  Rose 
for  a  hot  country,  but  it  is  too  double  we  fear  to 
open  satisfactorily  with  you.  The  next  time  you 
order  we  advise  you  to  stipulate  that  the  plants 
must  be  all  from  the  open  ground.  Small  pot- 
grown  plants  are  not  suitable  for  planting  where 
the  conditions  are  to  some  extent  unfavourable. 
In  the  case  of  these  pot  plants  we  advise  very  little 
pruning  this  season.  Just  remove  1  inch  or 
2  inches  from  the  extreme  ends  of  the  shoots.  If 
the  growths  are  somewhat  long,  give  them  the 
support  of  a  small  atick.  Although  you  may  not 
obtain  very  good  quality  flowera  from  these  plants 
this  season,  the  growths  retained  will  enable  the 
plants  to  send  out  good  basal  growths,  which  will 
probably  produce  some  very  fair  blooms  in 
autumn.     The  plants  from  the  open  ground  may 


be  cut  back  to  within  4  inches  to  6  inches  of  their 
base  this  season,  and  the  beat  time  will  be 
about  the  third  week  in  March.  You  did  well  to 
plant  Frau  Karl  Druachki  in  the  centre  of  the 
bed.  It  would  be  a  good  plan  to  train  this  as  a 
pillar  Rose,  securing  its  growths  to  a  small  stake, 
and  in  this  case  it  would  not  be  advisable  to 
prune  much.  The  growths  may  be  retained 
about  2  feet  in  length  this  season,  and  as  it  sends 
out  long  growths  tie  them  loosely  to  the  stake. 
The  Dandy  is  rather  a  strong  grower,  but  if  it 
grows  in  excess  of  the  other  sorts  and  is  likely  to 
spoil  the  evenneaa  of  the  bed,  you  could  peg  down 
its  growths  to  within  about  1  foot  of  the  ground. 
We  hope  you  will  be  able  to  compete  at  The 
Garden  Flower  Show,  for  it  was  with  the 
object  of  encouraging  enthusiastic  amateurs  like 
yourself  that  this  exhibition  was  promoted. 

Kvepgpeen  Roses  (/?.  //.  ^//*'n).— There  are 
really  no  true  Evergreen  Roses,  although  several  retain 
their  foliage  in  sheltered  gardens  well  beyond  Christmas. 
Some  of  the  best  varieties  to  plant  for  this  object  would 
he  Aimie  Vibert,  F^licitt''  Perp^tue,  Leopoldine  d'Orleans, 
Aglaia,  Jersey  Beauty,  Gardenia,  Evergreen  Gem,  Dorothy 
Perkins,  Lady  Gay,  Hiawatha,  alba  rubrifolia,  Polyantha 
grandiflora,  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg,  M.  Desir  and 
Mme.  A.  Carrifere. 


FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Fig  tpee  injured  {H.  E.  -S.).— Many 
thanks  for  sending  us  a  branch  of  your  injured 
tree.  About  a  month  ago  we  had  30°  of  frost 
in  many  parts  round  London,  and  we  think  the 
injury  to  your  tree  was  caused  by  this  frost,  as 
the  Fig  is  a  tender  subject  and  cannot  stand  such 
a  frost  uninjured  without  adequate  protection. 
The  branch  sent  had  borne  fine  fruit,  and  it  is 
injured  only  in  one  of  the  places  where  the  fruit 
had  been  pulled  off.  The  pulling  off  of  the  later 
set  fruit  was  only  anticipating  the  action  of  the 
tree  itself  later  on.  This  is  a  recognised  method 
of  sound  culture,  and  ia  in  no  way  responsible 
for  injury  to  the  tree. 

Tpeatment  ot  a  Vine  {W._  (?.).— You 

would  be  well  advised  to  rub  off  with  a  gloved 
hand  the  rough,  loose,  outer  bark  of  your  Vine, 
but  the  live  bark  should  not  be  touched.  With- 
out further  particulars  before  us  it  is  not  easy  to 
say  what  is  the  cause  ot  your  Grapes  shrivelling. 
It  may  be  that  the  foliage  had  been  damaged  by 
insects  or  in  some  other  way  before  the  fruit  had 
been  properly  developed.  A  Vine  will  not 
perfect  its  crop  unless  the  foliage  remains  healthy 
to  the  end  of  the  season  ;  or  it  may  be  that  the 
roots  of  the  Vine  are  unhealthy  and  unable 
properly  to  support  a  crop  of  Grapes  as  formerly. 
In  any  case  we  auggeat  the  following  treatment ; 
In  the  firat  place  mix  half  a  pound  of  aoft  soap 
in  a  gallon  of  hot  water.  Wash  your  Vine 
thoroughly  with  this  as  soon  as  it  haa  cooled 
down,  uaing  a  brush  not  too  hard  (an  old  carriage 
brush  would  do),  and  penetrating  into  all  the 
crevicea  of  the  bark  where  any  embryo  insects 
may  be  concealed,  but  taking  care  not  to  rub  the 
buds  off  the  Vine.  The  washing  finished,  paint 
over  the  Vine  with  the  following  solution: 
Floweraof  sulphur,  4oz. ;  quicklime,  4oz. ;  aof tsoap, 
4oz.  ;  tobacco  juice,  one  wineglasaful.  Mix  well 
together  in  warm  water  and  add  as  much  soft 
clay  as  will  bring  the  mixture  to  the  consistency  of 
paint.  This  mixture  may  be  left  on  the  Vine ;  it 
will  gradually  wear  away  in  the  course  of  the 
spring  and  summer.  In  the  meantime  any  pests 
concealed  in  the  bark  of  the  Vine  will  have  been 
destroyed.  The  next  thing  to  do  will  be  to 
thoroughly  wash  the  glass  roof  and  woodwork 
of  the  vinery  and  to  colour-waah  the  walls,  after- 
wards taking  off  the  surface  soil  of  the  border 
until  a  good  number  of  roots  are  found  and  wheel- 
ing it  away.  Replace  it  to  the  same  depth 
with  the  best  turfy  loam  you  can  find,  chopping 
it  up  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  coffee  cup,  and 
mixing  with  each  barrow-load  of  turf  half  a 
gallon  of  bone-meal  and  one  gallon  of  lime. 
After  well  mixing,  place  the  soil  over  the  roots  as 
far  as  they  extend  and  press  it  firmly  down. 
This  treatment  we  hope  will  aoon  bring  your 
Vine  back  to  health. 


Supplement  to    THE    GARDEN,    March    i^tJi,    1909 


HOUSE   OF  SUTTON'S   SEEDLING   CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

(From  Photograph  in  Natural  Colours  supplied  by  Messrs.  Sutton  &  Sons.) 


llufhon  &  Kfiirns,  Ltd..  Printera,  London,  S.E. 


GARDEN. 


-^5^^ 


;s^^^fcz3 


No.  1948.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


March  20,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Best  Methods  of 

Using  a  Cold  Frame  133 
Prizes  for  Readers  . .  134 
Notes  of  the  Week  i34 
correspohdenoe  . .  134 
Written    from     the 

Riviera— February  . .    136 
Kitchen  Garden  | 
How    to    plant    an  l 
Asparagus  bed      . .    136  j 
Fruit  Garden  I 
How    to   grow    fruit  j 
trees  in  pots  . .     . .    137  | 
Fruit  notes        . .     . .     13S  | 
Hints  on  Vine  culture    138  ' 
Greenhouse 
Forced  bulbs  and  eel- 
worms     139  ; 

The  small  greenhouse  i 

for    pleasure    and  | 

profit       139  I 

Flower  Garden  | 

Gladiolus  ganda- 

vensis       140  , 

Snowdrops  at  Castle 

Menzies 141  j 

How  to  grow  annual  | 

flowers     141  I 

Freesias      142  , 

Snowdrops  from  seeds    142  i 
The    Tritomas    or 
Kniphoflas  iu  early 
spring      142  , 


Slower  Garden 
Raising  Sweet    Peas 

in  turves 142 

Rose  Garden 
Mr.  E.  Mawley's  Rose 
Analysis,      1901  — 

1908 143 

Planting    Roses    for 

cutting  purposes  . .     143 

Three  useful  Roses . .    143 

Gardening  for  Beginners 

Garden  work  week  by 

week        

Methods  of  pruning 

dwarf  Roses  . . 
Calceolarias     for 
bedding-out  ..     .. 
Peach  and  Nectarine 
trees  in  spring 
The  Town  Garden  .. 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For    the  South    and 

South  Midlands    . .    146 
For  the   North    and 
North  Midlands  ..    146 

New  plants 147 

Editor's  Table      . .     . .    147 
Answers    to    Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . .     ,.    147 
Rose  garden      . .     . .     14S 
Miscellaneous  ..     ..    14S 


144 

144 

145 

145 
146 


ZLrliUSTRATIONS. 

The  new  Odontioda  Bradshawite  Cookson's  variety  . .  137 

Seedling  Gladiolus  Haiue 139 

Gladiolus  Marks  Barn 140 

Snowdrops  in  the  woods  at  Castle  Menzies 141 

Well-grown  Freesias  in  Butleigh  Court  Gardens. .     . .  142 

Methods  of  pruning  dwarf  Roses      144,  145 


BDITORIALi    NOTICBS. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
GARDEN,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  qitestions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  **  Answers  to  Correspondents"  coluinn  a  conspicuous 
feature,  aTid,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
loill  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o/  their  assistance. 
All  co^nmunicatioiis  mtist  be  written  clea/rly  on  one  side 
only  0}  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  oj  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles^  and  notes, 
but  he  vfill  not  be  re&ponsible  for  their  sa^fe  return.  All 
reasonable  ca/re,  however,  will  be  taken,  aTid  where  sta/mps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
eo^itributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  he  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  m/ust  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actuaX  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  vnll  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  he  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  he  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  a/rticle  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  GARDEN 
will  alone  be  recognised  a£  acceptance. 


Offices:  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden^  W.C. 


THE    BEST     METHODS     OF 
USING    A    COLD    FRAME. 

(First    Prize    Essay.) 

OF  all  the  aids  and  contrivances  which 
benefit  a  gardener,  be  he  pro- 
fessional or  amateur,  there  is  none 
more  useful  than  a  cold  frame  ; 
indeed,  so  valuable  an  auxiliary 
has  been  designated,  not  inaptly,  the  "half-way 
house  "  from  greenhouse  to  garden.  That  a 
cold  frame  is  almost  indispensable  to  anyone 
having  a  greenhouse  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to 
state,  and  though  it  is  left  on  record  that  he 
"who  loves  a  garden,  loves  a  greenhouse  too,'" 
it  is  not  implied  that  a  cold  frame  is  any  the 
less  appreciated.  In  such  a  structure  one  may 
do  very  much  in  growing  subjects  that  will  help 
in  no  small  degree  to  keep  a  garden  gay,  and  also 
to  provide  salads  for  the  table  and  for  raising 
produce  of  a  certain  sort  for  the  kitchen  garden. 
In  fact,  so  useful  is  a  cold  frame  that  in  a  well- 
managed  garden  it  need  never  be  really  empty  for 
long  ;  and  not  merely  in  large  establishments  is 
such  a  receptacle  of  service  in  a  variety  of  ways, 
but  it  is  equally  so  to  the  owner  of  a  small 
garden,  whose  only  claim  to  "glass"'  is  gauged 
by  the  dimensions  of  his  garden  frame. 

In  order,  therefore,  to  demonstrate  fully  the 
best  ways  of  using  a  cold  frame,  it  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  capabilities  of  a  cold 
frame  are  fourfold,  viz.,  that  of  shelter,  propa- 
gation, hardening  and  for  growing  on  plants  for 
various  requirements.  I  will  assume  that  it  is 
early  autumn  and  for  the  time  being  I  am 
acting  in  the  capacity  of  three  different  persons — 
(1)  a  professional  gardener,  (2)  an  amateur,  (3) 
a  cottager. 

As  A  PrOFESSIONjIL  Gardexee 
I  have  under  my  charge  a  number  of  houses,  a 
large  kitchen  garden — no  inconsiderable  part  of 
which  is  allocated  to  fruit-growing — lawns  and 
flower  beds  and  borders.  A  good-sized  frame 
(span-roofed)  runs  between  the  entire  length  of 
two  of  the  houses,  and  this  is  divided  into 
partitions,  which  are  loose  and  may  be  removed 
as  circumstances  demand.  Having  regard  to  the 
uncertainty  of  growing  salads  out  of  doors  in 
winter,  a  portion  is  devoted  to  Lettuces,  two 
sorts  being  grown,  viz..  Winter  White  Cos 
and  All  the  Year  Round  Cabbage.  Plants  are 
obtained  from  open  beds  in  September  and,  with 
a  number  of  roots  of  Parsley,  are  placed  under 
cover,  so  that  in  the  time  of  frost  and  heavy 
snow  these  two  almost  indispensable  kitchen 
requisites  will  be  forthcoming. 

Flower  beds  and  borders  are  a  great  drain 
upon  the  resources  of  both  greenhouse  and  frame, 
and  in  order  to  meet  the  demand  and  to  ensure 
the  protection  of  plants  (which  in  a  mild  winter 
will  often  go  through  unhurt)  Violas  and  Pansies, 
Auriculas  and  hybrid  Primroses  are  given  a 
section  to  themselves,  so  that  liberal  ventilation 


may  be  given  as  weather  permits.  Calceolarias 
and  Pentstemons  are  placed  under  a  separate 
light.  After  the  Lettuces  are  cut  the  bed  is  dug 
over,  some  new  soil  incorporated  and  got  ready 
for  the  sowing  of  half-hardy  annuals.  By  the 
time  these  are  ready  for  their  outdoor  quarters, 
"^'^iolets  which  were  lifted  in  the  autumn  and 
placed  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  structure  are 
getting  over,  and  when  runners  have  been 
selected  and  planted  out  of  doors,  the  old  plants 
are  moved  and  their  places  occupied  with 
Chrysanthemums,  Pelargoniums,  and  tender 
annuals  that  have  been  raised  in  pans  in  the 
house.  Alter  these  have  been  sufficiently 
hardened,  space  is  reserved  for  plants  that  have 
done  blooming  in  the  house  and  can  be  better 
accommodated  in  the  frame  after  new  wood  has 
been  made.  These  comprise  Azaleas,  Heaths, 
Epacrises,  Deutzias  and  other  plants  of  a  similar 
character. 

In  April  Runner  Beans  are  sown  in  boxes  and 
placed  under  the  lights,  subsequently  being 
planted  out  in  the  quarter  reserved  for  them  in 
the  kitchen  garden.  Cauliflowers,  too,  from  the 
first  batch  of  plants  sown  in  the  house  are  now 
pricked  ofli"  in  the  frame-beds  from  which  French 
Breakfast  Radishes  have  been  pulled.  Another 
bed  of  Lettuces  is  provided  for  in  the  variety 
Commodore  Nutt.  Strawberries  in  pots  kept 
under  lights  apart  are  now  transferred  to  the 
house  as  needed  for  bringing  on.  Celery  plants 
are  pricked  off  in  beds  in  frames,  and  when  bed- 
ding and  other  plants  have  been  shifted  places 
are  prepared  for  the  summer  tenants  of 
frames.  These  are  Cucumbers,  Melons  and 
Tomatoes,  and  the  whole  of  the  plants  are 
raised  in  the  house  for  that  purpose.  A  sec- 
tion of  the  frame  is  given  up  to  Cucumbers 
and  another  to  Melons,  and  to  this  end  beds  of 
suitable  material  are  got  ready.  Tomatoes 
brought  on  in  the  house  are  grown  in  pots, 
10  inches  indiameter,andin  order  to  accommodate 
them,  some  of  the  ashes  are  removed.  By  an 
arrangement  of  raising  the  sashes,  as  needed  for 
the  admission  of  air,  yet  utilising  the  heat  of  the 
sun,  crops  are  gathered  soon  after  those  in  the 
house  are  cut,  and  are  more  reliable  than  out- 
door crops.  Sorts  grown  are  :  Cucumber,  Lord 
Roberts  ;  Melon,  Hero  of  Lockings ;  and  Tomato, 
Sutton's  Earliest  of  All. 

One  of  the  partitions  of  the  frame  which  con- 
tained bulbs  is  given  up  to  Mushrooms  and 
spawned  towards  the  end  of  May.  As  the  crops 
finish,  in  the  early  autumn,  plants  take  their 
places  from  other  sections,  such  as  Cinerarias, 
Cyclamens  and  Primulas,  which  for  a  time  remain 
until  ready  for  transferring  to  the  house, 
together  with  winter  -  flowering  Carnations, 
Bouvardias,  &c.,  that  have  found  their  summer 
quarters  in  the  cold  frame.  As  a  professional 
gardener  a  cold  frame  is  absolutely  essential  to 
me. 

I  AM  AN  Amateur  Gardener 
with  one  span-roofed  greenhouse  15  feet  by  10  feet, 
along  the  side  of  which  I  have  a  lean-to  frame. 
I  am  asked  to  prove  the  best  ways  of  using  a  cold 
frame.  I  will  endeavour  to  do  so ;  but  let  me  say 
at  the  outset  that  mine  is  never  empty.  Here  is 
a  twelve  months'  programme  :  There  are  three 
lights  of  equal  size.  In  one  I  grow  Calceolarias, 
in  another  Pansies  and  Carnations,  and  the  third 


134 


THE     GARDEN. 


(March  20,  1909. 


is  filled  with  pots  of  bulbs  in  winter  which  are 
brought  on  in  the  house  as  they  are  wanted.  I 
also  manage  to  grow  in  a  corner  of  one  of  the 
frames  a  few  Violets,  and  along  the  back  of  the 
bed,  near  the  greenhouse  wall  where  it  is  dry,  I 
invariably  have  a  few  Eeheverias.  Bedding 
plants,  such  as  Geraniums,  Fuchsias,  Stocks, 
Asters,  Lobelias  and  other  half-hardy  things, 
find  shelter  until  they  are  hardened  off  to  go  out 
of  doors.  When  these  have  been  bedded  out, 
Chrysanthemums  are  brought  from  the  house  and 
kept  in  the  frame  until  I  have  time  to  pot  them 
o£r  in  big  pots. 

For  winter  blooming  I  grow  a  few  Primulas 
and  Cinerarias,  and  these  are  found  room  for  in  one 
of  the  spaces.  Later  in  the  season  I  get  ready  a 
bed  of  manure,  on  which  I  grow  Cucumbers.  I 
have  been  very  successful  with  Telegraph 
Improved.  Besides  this,  1  make  use  of  the 
frame  earlier  for  raising  odd  things  in  the  garden, 
such  as  Celery  and  Lettuces,  and  frequently  sow 
Beans  in  boxes  and  then  harden  them  off.  The 
losses  are  fewer  than  when  seed  is  sown  in  the 
open  ground. 

I  also  raise  one  or  two  Vegetable  Marrows  on 
the  Cucumber  bed,  which  are  afterwards  planted 
out  of  doors ;  and  on  several  occasions  have 
grown  Balsams  therein  up  to  within  a  few  weeks 
of  blooming,  when  they  have  been  shifted  to  the 
house.  As  I  like  a  variety  of  plants  in  my 
window-bo.xes  and  greenhouse  in  the  summer, 
and  in  order  that  I  may  have  a  continuous  show 
of  bloom,  I  raise  a  number  of  plants  in  heat,  and 
after  potting  some  of  them  place  them  in  the 
frame  for  some  time  until  I  am  ready  for  them  in 
the  house,  among  them  being  Schizanthuses, 
Nemesias,  Rhodanthes,  Verbenas  and  Sweet 
Peas,  which  latter  are  raised  in  the  frame.  I 
should  be  quite  lost  without  my  cold  frame. 

I  AM  A  Cottager 
having  a  large  garden,  and  a  frame  which  I  make 
the  most  of.  In  two  years  it  paid  for  itself. 
This  is  how  it  came  about  :  I  grow  about 
SOO  Calceolarias  every  year,  keeping  perhaps 
sixty  myself  ;  the  rest  I  sell.  Thea  I  sow  half- 
hardy  annuals,  and  some  of  these  I  dispose  of, 
but  I  make  as  much  out  of  Cucumbers  I  grow, 
and  as  I  get  manure  cheap  and  a  friend  raises 
plants,  the  cost  is  only  trifling.  I  get  along  very 
well  with  a  frame,  as  I  grow  other  things  for  my 
garden,  such  as  Celery  and  Cauliflowers.  Last 
year  I  sowed  about  a  score  of  pots  of  Sweet 
Peas  in  February  and  put  them  in  the  frame, 
planting  out  in  April  in  good  ground.  I  took 
first  prize  at  our  village  show  and  had  flowers 
up  to  October.     A  cold  frauie  did  this. 

W.    FOWKES. 

SJ,  Breedon  Hill  Road,  Derby. 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 

PEBRUARY  COMPETITION.  —  AWARDS. 
In  this  competition  readers  were  invited  to  send 
in  essays  on  "  The  Best  Methods  of  Using 
a  Cold  Frame."  The  prizes  are  awarded  as 
follows  : 

The  first  prize  of  four  guineas  to  Mr.  W. 
Fowkes,  .31,  Breedon  Hill  Road,  Derby. 

The  second  prize  of  two  guineas  to  Mr.  J. 
Rawlings,  The  Gardens,  Ridgemount,  Enfield, 
Middlesex. 

The  third  prize  of  one  guinea  to  Mrs.  J.  E. 
Mills,  Rutland  Lodge,  Bittern. 

The  fourth  prize  of  half-a-guinea  to  Mr.  T. 
Robinson,  Linton  House,  Nuns  Moor  Road, 
Newcastle-on-Tyne. 

This  competition  proved  exceedingly  popular, 
and  a  large  number  of  excellent  essays  were  sent 
in.  The  essays  from  the  following  are  highly 
commended  :  V.  Coekoam,  Rosenau  Road, 
Battersea  Park  ;  W.  Yandell,  Longford  Castle 
Gardens,  Salisbury ;  C.  Comfort,  Broomfield 
Gardens,  Davidson's  Mains,  Midlothian ;  A. 
Eames,     Heanton     Satohville,     Dolton,     North 


Devon ;  H.  Tomalin,  Tower  Hill  Cottages, 
Kingsclere,  Newbury,  Berks ;  W.  L.  Lavender, 
Waltham  Manor  Gardens,  Twyford,  Berks ; 
C.  W.  Caulfield,  Bridgen  House,  Park  Crescent, 
Erith  ;  E.  Piatt,  The  Gardens,  Borden  Wood, 
Liphook  ;  G.  Walshaw,  Griffiths  Road,  Wimble- 
don ;  Mrs.  V.  Jeffery,  Foyle  Road,  Blackheath  ; 
J.  Gray  Besant,  The  Gardens,  Castle  Huntly, 
Longforgan,  Perthshire  ;  E.  Barnett,  Medstead 
Manor,  Alton,  Hants  ;  C.  F.  Chipman,  Winns 
Avenue,  Forest  Road,  Walthamstow :  J.  W. 
CunliSe,  The  Gardens,  Highfield  Infirmary, 
Knotty  Ash,  Liverpool ;  W.  Hookey,  Flinton 
Cottages,  Church  Walk,  Weybridge ;  A.  E. 
Groombridge,  St.  Mary's  Road,  Leyton  :  and 
S.  Bicknell,  Rowan  Cottage,  Buckden,  Skipton, 
Yorkshire. 


NOTES   OF    THE   WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dales  given  helow  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

March  23. — Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Plants,  &c. ,  1  p.m. 
to  6  p.m.  Lecture  at  three  o'clock  by  Mr.  R. 
Lloyd  Praeger.  on  "  Rook  Gardens,  Natural  and 
Artificial."  Admission  •2s.  6d.  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 

March  24.  —  Perpetual-flowering  Carnation 
Show,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m.  Royal  Horticultural 
Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 


Scottish  Hopticultupal  Associa- 
tion.— The  monthly  meeting  of  this  association 
was  held  in  the  hall  at  5,  St.  Andrew  Square, 
Edinburgh,  on  the  evening  of  March  2.  There 
was  a  good  attendance,  presided  over  by  the 
president,  Mr.  James  Whytock,  Dalkeith  Palace 
Gardens,  and  several  exhibits  of  interest  were 
included  among  those  on  the  table.  An  interesting 
and  able  lecture  on  "  The  New  Soil  Science  "  was 
delivered  by  Mr.  .J.  Hunter,  and  gave  rise  to  a 
most  useful  discussion.  Mr.  Hunter  gave  an 
able  survey  of  the  most  modern  discoveries  and 
experiments  in  the  way  of  manuring,  and  criticised 
the  teaching  so  frequently  given,  even  in  colleges, 
on  the  subject.  He  dwelt  upon  the  services 
afforded  by  the  different  micro-organisms,  and 
showed  how  these  could  be  encouraged  and 
assisted  in  their  work.  He  was  warmly  thanked 
for  his  deeply  suggestive  lecture. 

Frencli  nupserymen  and  duties 

on  impoPted  plants.— At  the  last  meet- 
ing of  the  Commission  Administrative  de  I'Union 
Commereiale  des  Horticulteurs  et  Marchands 
grainiers  de  France,  presided  over  by  M.  A. 
Truffaut,  it  was  decided,  after  due  consideration  of 
the  propositions  contained  in  the  Report  of  the 
Commission  on  the  Revision  of  Tariffs  to  be  sub- 
mitted to  the  French  Parliament,  to  protest 
against  any  new  duties  or  increase  of  duties  on 
the  importation  of  plants,  flowers,  fruits  and 
vegetables.  Although  the  additional  duties  pro- 
posed are  not  very  high,  the  Union  Commereiale, 
according  to  the  vote  recorded  on  the  subject  at 
the  last  general  meeting,  is  of  opinion  that  French 
horticulture  is  siitiiciently  protected.  The  adop- 
tion of  new  or  increased  taxes  which  have  been 
asked  for  by  a  small  group  of  interested  persons 
might  have,  as  a  result,  the  creation  or  the  increase 
of  higher  tariffs  by  other  countries,  which  would 
sensibly  affect  the  exportation  of  French  products, 
such  as  flowers,  fruits  and  Palms  from  the 
southern  and  plants  and  trees  from  the  western 
parts  of  France,  as  well  as  of  primeurs  or  early 
vegetables  and  fruits  from  the  Paris  district,  the 
whole  of  which  form  the  most  important  part  of 
French  horticulture.  It  was  decided  that  another 
deputation  should  wait  upon  the  president  of  the 
commission,  and  also  that  M.  Deloncle,  M.P. 
for  the  Department  of  Seine,  and  M.  Arago, 
M.P.  for  the  Alpes  Mari times,  should  be  asked 
to  use  their  influence  and  to  oppose  all  new 


taxes  and  any  increase  of  existing  taxes  when  the 
discussion  of  the  Bill  takes  place  in  the  French 
Parliament.  French  horticulturists  of  all  descrip- 
tions wish  it  to  be  kno\vn  that  they  are  opposed 
to  new  or  increased  duties  being  put  upon  gar- 
dening goods,  as  they  are  convinced  that  nursery- 
men of  both  countries  must  benefit  by  every 
facility  being  given  for  a  free  entry  of  such  goods 
from  other  countries  into  their  own. 

Mp.   Felton's   flopal   decopations 

in  BePlin. — It  is  interesting  to  note  that  on 
the  occasion  of  Their  ilajesties  the  King  and 
Queen's  recent  visit  to  Berlin,  one  of  our  London 
florists,  Mr.  Felton  of  Hanover  Square,  carried 
out  the  entire  floral  decorations  at  the  great 
banquet  attended  in  State  by  Their  Majesties  the 
King  and  Queen  and  the  German  Court  at  the 
British  Embassy.  The  flowers  employed  were 
scarlet  Carnations,  Lilies  of  the  Valley  and 
white  Lilac:  but  Mr.  Felton  says  that  he 
regretted  his  inability  to  procure  in  Berlin  any- 
thing like  as  fine  flowers  as  he  could  have  done 
in  England.  He  made  up  the  deficiency, 
however,  by  employing  great  quantities  and 
arranging  them  in  masses  instead  of  lightly, 
as  he  would  have  done  if  they  had  been  of 
better  quality  and  had  had  longer  stems.  He 
used  in  addition  to  the  Lilac  and  Lilies  nearly 
20O  dozen  flowers  of  Carnations.  He  also  was 
entrusted  with  other  large  floral  works,  among 
them  the  wonderful  decoration  of  Messrs. 
Waring  and  (iillow's  Berlin  establishment. 
This  was  composed  entirely  of  Mimosa,  Violets, 
brown  foliage  and  mauve  ribbons,  and  was 
pronounced  by  all  to  be  the  finest  exterior 
decoration  ever  attempted  in  Berlin.  The  Berlin 
Press  alluded  to  the  scheme  as  "noble  and 
grand,"  and  "  one  upon  which  Berlin  florists 
might  ponder"  and  "endeavour  to  imitate." 
During  the  work,  which  was  done  at  three  days' 
notice,  Messrs.  Waring  and  Mr.  Felton  employed 
nearly  100  workmen,  including  three  interpreters, 
the  municipal  fire  brigade  officials  kindly  lending 
two  fire  escapes  to  enable  the  various  workmen 
to  place  the  floral  garlands,  florally  decorated 
shields,  electric  devices  and  general  decorations 
in  position  at  the  higher  altitudes.  Mr.  Felton 
is  authorised  to  state  that  His  Imperial  Majesty 
the  Kaiser  and  His  Majesty  King  Edward 
expressed  their  admiration  of  this  work,  as  it 
will  be  remembered  they  did  of  the  decoration, 
also  carried  out  by  Mr.  Felton,  at  Messrs. 
Waring's  establishment  in  Oxford  Street  on  the 
occasion  of  the  Kaiser's  visit  to  London. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  Jar  the   opiniong 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

Roaes  and  gpeen  fly.— When  I  was  a 

boy  my  father  told  me  that  he,  when  he  was  a 
boy,  heard  in  the  streets  a  song,  part  of  which 
was  : 

Perchance  a  recruit 
Mip;ht  chance  to  shoot 
<-Treat  General  Buonoparte, 

In  the  same  way  perhaps  an  ignorant  amateur 
may  make  a  good  shot  in  gardening.  Last  year 
it  occurred  to  me  to  attack  Rose  aphis  in  the 
following  way  :  As  soon  as  the  Roses  had  been 
pruned,  and  the  prunings  taken  away  and  burnt, 
all  the  Rose  plants  were  syringed  over  with  a 
paraffin  and  soft  soap  emulsion.  In  the  spring 
and  summer  we  had  practically  no  green  fly  on 
our  Roses,  though  in  other  gardens  round 
about  there  was  a  good  deal.  My  theory  is  that 
the  spraying  destroyed  the  mother  aphis,  as  the 
spray  reached  every  part  of  the  pruned  and  leaf- 
less Rose  plants.  We  did  not  suffer  from  Rose 
caterpillars  either,  and  this  I  attribute  to  my 
gardener  having  syringed  the  Roses  at  the  end  of 
May  with  some  rather  diluted  arsenical  spray 
which  had  remained  over  after  spraying  the 
fruit  trees.  I  think  both  these  methods  are 
worth  a  trial. — R.  B.  (Colonel). 


March  20,  1909. J 


THE     GARDEN. 


135 


The  classification  of  perpetual- 

flOWePlng*  RoseS.^AImost  before  I  had 
finished  reading  the  Kev.  J.  H.  Pemberton's 
letter  under  the  above  heading  in  The  Garden 
of  January  9,  a  protest  had  formulated  itself  in 
my  mind  ;  but  &  feeling  of  difl&denoe,  when  I 
thought  of  the  writer's  standing  in  the  Rose 
world,  prevented  me  expressing  myself.  It  is 
only  after  reading  the  article  by  Mr.  George 
Prince  in  your  issue  of  the  6th  ult. ,  and  your 
footnote  inviting  correspondence  on  the  subject, 
that  I  venture  to  write  this.  Mr.  Prince  has 
already  expressed  many  of  my  objections  better 
than  I  could  myself,  therefore  it  is  unnecessary 
for  me  to  go  over  the  same  ground  ;  but  I  might 
add  that  if  Mr.  Pemberton  were  obliged  to  grow 
Hugh  Dickson  or  even  Frau  Karl  Druschki  in 
the  United  States,  or  at  least  in  that  part  of  the 
country  where  I  live,  he  would  find  how  little 
either  of  them  is  entitled  to  be  classed  as  Hybrid 
Teas  from  a  perpetual-flowering  point  of  view. 
On  the  other  hand,  J.  B.  Clark  and  Charles  J. 
Grahame  are  as  little  deserving  of  this  distinc- 
tion, though  placed  in  the  Hybrid  Tea  class.  All 
this  might  seem  at  first  blush  to  sustain  Mr. 
Pemberton's  position  ;  but  to  me  it  only  goes  to 
show  that  the  latter  two  Rosea  are  in  the  wrong 
class,  for  the  fact  remains  that  should  one  take 
up  a  catalogue  and  order  at  random  from  the 
Hybrid  Tea  and  Tea  sections,  he  would,  with  very 
few  exceptions,  be  sure  of  getting  perpetual- 
blooming  Roses,  whereas  if  Mr.  Pemberton's 
suggested  amalgamation  should  be  carried  out, 
it  would  be  most  difficult  for  one  to  make  a 
selection  with  any  certainty  as  to  their  perpetual- 
blooming  qualities.  Regarding  Teas,  I  will  only 
say  that,  aside  from  the  distinctions  pointed  out 
by  Mr.  Prince,  it  would  be  difficult  to  convince 
me  that  a  Rose  having  the  scent  of  Harry  Kirk 
(as  I  recall  it),  or,  for  that  matter,  of  Gloire  de 
Dijon,  was  of  pure  Tea  blood,  while  lack  of  scent 
would  seem  to  me  to  be  simply  a  lack  of  evidence 
one  way  or  the  other.  But,  after  all,  is  not  this 
selecting  of  varieties  that  are  on  the  border-line, 
and  thereon  building  arguments  as  to  whether 
the  present  classification  should  stand  or  fall, 
somewhat  wide  of  the  mark  ?  Is  it  possible  to 
construct  any  classification  that  will  not  leave 
room  for  disagreement  when  this  border-line  is 
reached !  I  think  not.  Botany  is  supposed  to  be 
a  more  accurate  study  than  gardening  as  far  as 
classification  goes,  yet  Mr.  Pemberton,  in  his 
excellent  book  on  the  Rose,  says :  "The  botanical 
classification  of  the  genus  Rosa  seems  to  present 
as  much  difference  of  opinion  to  the  botanist  as 
that  of  the  cultivated  inter-bred  Rose  does  to 
ordinary  Rose-growers,"  and  it  is  not  by  any 
means  in  the  genus  Rosa  alone  that  these  eminent 
authorities  disagree  ;  therefore  it  seems  to  me 
that  any  new  system  of  classification,  particu- 
larly one  that  would  ignore  the  more  or  less 
accurate  claims  of  ancestry  which  we  have  now, 
would  be  so  arbitrary  as  to  cause  much  more  dis- 
content and  confusion  than  now  exists.  I  had 
intended  to  point  out  what  I  considered  would 
cause  great  uncertainty  in  assigning  certain  Roses 
under  the  headings  (1)  and  (2)  in  Mr.  Pemberton's 
suggested  classification,  but,  as  this  letter  is 
already  too  long,  will  instead  briefly  mention  one 
of  several  disappointments  that  have  come  to  my 
knowledge  from  ordering  Roses  from  an  American 
catalogue  where  an  "amalgamation"  on  some- 
what similar  lines  to  those  suggested  was 
attempted.  In  this  instance  all  perpetual- 
flowering  dwarf  Roses  were  catalogued  under  the 
head  of  "Ever-blooming  Roses,"  and  the  person 
who  was  ordering  wanted  some  Tea  Roses.  He 
knew — and  that  was  about  all  he  did  know — that 
Teas  were  perpetual  bloomers  ;  consequently  he 
made  out  his  list,  fortunately  a  small  one,  and 
sent  it.  His  disappointment  may  well  be  imagined 
when  the  Roses  began  to  bloom,  for  he  had 
ordered  such  varieties  as  Hermosa,  Clothilde 
Soupert,  Champion  of  the  World,  &c.,  and,  if  my 
memory  serves,  Etoile  de  Lyon  and  Safrano  were 
the  only  Teas.  He  had  chosen  free  bloomers  and 
got  them,  but  not  what  he  wanted.     This  may 


not  be  a  parallel  case  to  the  classifications  sug- 
gested by  Mr.  Pemberton,  but  I  very  much  fear 
that  the  resultant  disappointments  and  confusion 
would  be  only  too  similar  should  his  suggestion 
be  adopted. — Alfred  L.  Squire,  White  Plains, 
New  York. 

This  is  an  extremely  interesting  subject 

and  should  be  debated  thoroughly.  I  am  strongly 
of  opinion  that  there  is  work  for  a  conference  of 
experts  in  order  to  arrive  at  some  standard  of 
classification;  then  followingthat,  let  the  National 
Rose  Society  adjudicate  to  which  group  the 
various  novelties  belong  as  they  are  tested  after 
cultivation.  I  do  not  see  why  raisers  should 
determine  this  matter,  especially  when,  as 
hinted,  they  are  ruled  by  business  motives. 
Let  us  recognise  the  National  Rose  Society 
as  our  tribunal.  I  see  a  great  reluctance  in 
giving  up  the  term  Hybrid  Tea,  although  it  will 
have  to  go.  That  far-seeing  and,  perhaps,  the 
best  authority  we  have  ever  had  on  the  Rose, 
the  late  Rev.  H.  D'ombrain,  never  liked  the  term, 
and  he  doubtless  foresaw  the  difficulty  that 
now  confronts  us.  We  are  not  justified  in  using 
the  term  Hybrid.  I  grant  Soleil  d'Or  is  a  distinct 
Hybrid  ;  but  are  not  many  present-day  novelties 
merely  cross-bred  ?  Take,  for  instance,  George 
Laing  Paul,  a  cross  between  Caroline  Testout 
and  Fisher  Holmes.  Where  does  the  Hybrid 
come  in  here?  We  want  to  simplify  matters 
as  much  as  possible ;  so  let  us  have  a  recon- 
struction of  the  so-called  Hybrid  Perpetual 
group.  I  am  not  quite  so  scathing  in  my 
condemnation  of  this  group  as  Mr.  Pemberton. 
There  are  some  that  give  us  something  more  than 
"  echoes  in  the  autumn  "  ;  for  instance,  Mrs. 
John  Laing,  Louis  van  Houtte,  Earl  of  Pembroke, 
A.  K.  Williams  and  Victor  Verdier  are  worthy 
to  be  retained.  I  would  suggest  that  we 
establish  a  group  and  call  them  Perpetuals. 
Into  this  group  would  go  the  freest-flowering 
of  existing  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Bourbons  such  as 
Mme.  I.  Pereire,  Mrs.  Paul,  &o.,  and  Hybrid 
Teas,  barring  Gloire  Lyonnaiae  and  perhaps  one 
or  two  others.  Distinctive  classes  would  be 
retained  for  Tea-scented,  Dwarf  Polyanthas, 
Rugoaas,  Chinas  or  Monthly ;  but  this  latter 
group  would  have  to  be  overhauled  and  such 
Roses  as  Queen  Mab,  Irene  Watts,  Aurore,  &c. , 
placed  with  the  Teas,  to  which  they  undoubtedly 
belong.  Sub-divide  the  Teaa  by  all  meana,  and 
place  such  Rosea  as  these  just  named  and  also 
Frinoesae  de  Sagan  as  China  Teas.  The  Perpetual 
group  could  be  sub-divided  into  Specimen  Roaea, 
Decorative  and  Masaing,  as  suggested  by  Mr. 
Pemberton.  I  would  also  auggeat  that  makers  of 
schedules  should  offer  prizes  lor  the  various 
families  that  are  now  so  pronounced,  i.e.,  such  as 
the  Testout,  Chatenay,  Kaiserin  and  Lady  Mary 
groups.  Still  further  I  would  suggest  the  forma- 
tion of  a  summer-flowering  group,  in  which  would 
be  placed  such  Hybrid  Perpetuals  as  rarely  give 
an  autumnal  flower,  such  as  Magna  Charta,  Clio, 
and  Mme.  G.  Luizet,  and  join  these  with  the  ao- 
called  Hybrid  Chineae  group,  which  contains 
such  as  Blairi  No.  2  and  Chenedole.  Of  this 
summer  group  there  would  be  sub-sections  for 
Moss  Roses,  Damasks,  Scotch,  Briars,  albas, 
multifloras,  wichuraianas,  gallicas,  &c.  By 
thus  grouping  we  should  at  least  avoid  planting 
Roaes  that  are  required  to  give  a  good  autumnal 
display,  but  that  only  give  ua  of  their  beauty  in 
the  aummer  months.  As  to  Maman  Coohet  not 
being  a  Tea  Rose,  I  think  ita  diifuae  growths 
proclaim  it  a  true  Tea.  As  well  call  Souvenir 
d'un  Ami  a  Hybrid  Tea. — P. 

Lycaste  SklnnePl.— The  illustration  on 
page  99  of  Lycaste  Skinneri  has,  I  believe,  ten 
flowers.  I  have  five  plants  in  8-inch  pots  and 
they  had  in  all  over  100  blooms.  One  plant 
had  thirty -two.  I  have  enclosed  a  few  for 
your  inspection.  —  F.  May,  Wohuni  Avenue, 
Theydon  Bois,  Eppiny,  Essex.  [Very  fine 
flowera.  — Ed.] 

Growing:  Cupid  Sweet  Peas.— As 
a  conatant  reader  of  your  useful  and  interesting 
paper,   I  shall  be  glad  to    tell    others  how    I 


successfully  grew  Cupid  Sweet  Peas  last  year. 
The  first  buds  were  certainly  inclined  to  drop 
off',  but  from  the  later  ones  I  had  a  continuous 
supply  of  blossom  which  made  a  moat  effective 
edging  to  a  border  with  a  south  aspect.  The 
soil  was  a  light  and  well-worked  loam  over  a 
gravel  subsoil,  and  had  been  well  dressed  with 
rotted  stable  manure  in  February  and  had  had  a 
good  dressing  of  lime.  Sowing  was  done  early  in 
April,  the  seeds  being  put  in  in  groups  along  the 
border  and  much  closer  together  than  is  usual 
with  the  taller  varieties.  When  flower-buds 
formed  the  plants  were  watered  with  soot  water 
every  week,  and  received  three  or  four  times 
during  the  summer  a  pinch  of  superphosphate  to 
each  plant  and  in  August  a  very  amall  amount 
of  nitrate  of  soda.  They  bloomed  well  until 
cut  down  by  frost  at  the  end  of  October. — 
Violet  Jeffbry,  Blackheath. 

BlPdS  In  graPdenS. — The  correspondence 
in  your  columns  reapecting  sparrows  is  an  ilUus- 
tration  of  the  curious  disposition  people  exhibit 
of  desiring  to  interfere  with  the  ordinary  course 
of  Nature.  I  live  on  the  side  of  a  river  and  grow 
fruit.  I  live  in  an  atmosphere  of  birds,  but  I 
preserve  my  fruit.  I  had  a  gardener  once  who 
set  to  work  shooting  birds  because  an  army  of 
tits  stripped  a  cherry  tree  of  its  buds  in  a  single 
morning.  I  stopped  him  and  explained  that  no 
amount  of  shooting  would  mend  matters.  You 
must  protect  the  fruit  and  encourage  the  birds 
to  do  their  office  of  protecting  the  trees  from 
grubs.  The  water  brings  the  birds,  and  I  feed 
them  on  the  principle  that  when  birds  cease  to 
be  hungry  they  cease  to  be  mischievous.  I  have 
blackbirds,  thrushes,  the  whole  finch  tribe,  the 
wagtail  and  innumerable  sparrows.  The  thrushes 
clear  my  lawn  of  worms.  I  have  not  a  slug  in 
the  whole  place,  and  the  fruit  flouriahea  because 
the  birda  do  their  office,  and  I  protect  the  fruit. 
It  is  far  easier  to  protect  than  to  shoot,  and 
while  protection  is  effectual,  shooting  is  ridiculous. 
Blackbirds  and  thrushes  like  Strawberries,  and 
Strawberries  I  protect  by  erecting  over  the  entire 
bed  a  tent  of  netting  6  feet  high.  Once  arranged 
it  is  good  for  years.  Pears  I  protect  with  bags 
made  of  mosquito  net.  When  properly  grown 
Pears  cluster,  and  a  bag  may  enclose  half-a-dozen. 
No  birds  touch  them ;  the  fruit  is  the  more  delieate 
in  the  result ;  and  the  string  of  the  bag  being 
passed  over  a  neighbouring  twig,  if  the  ripe  fruit 
fills  it  hangs  in  the  bag.  Those  who  know 
nothing  about  it,  and  want  to  shoot  sparrows, 
exclaim,  "  What  a  cost  and  what  labour ! " 
Nothing  of  the  kind  ;  a  few  shillings  and  a  few 
hours,  and  the  bags  last  for  years.  So  convinced 
am  I  of  the  soundjaess  of  this  policy  of  protection, 
that  I  contemplate  covering  about  a  quarter  of 
an  acre  of  choice  fruit  trees  with  1  inch  meah 
wire  from  a  high  wall ;  but  I  shall  give  free 
entrance  to  the  birda  for  nine  months  in  the  year. 
I  regard  them  as  a  necessity,  and  put  them  in 
the  category  of  root-pruning  and  other  little 
attentions  not  generally  observed. — Frederick 
Wicks,  in  the  Saturday  Review. 

Sweet  Peas  Debbie's  King:  and 
MPS.  A.  IPeland. — The  fortunate  visitors 
to  Mark's  Tey  in  1908,  during  the  flowering 
season,  will  not  readily  forget  the  glorious  sight 
of  long  rows  of  the  above.  The  one  was  truly 
a  "King"  and  the  other  surely  a  "Queen" 
among  Sweet  Peas.  The  latter,  on  account  of  its 
soft,  sweet  colour  tones,  will  be  an  especial 
favourite.  For  table  decorations  by  day  or 
under  artificial  light  it  is  perfect.  The  standard 
is  beautifully  waved,  of  a  rosy  pink  tint,  and  is 
enriched  by  a  suspicion  of  cream  at  its  base  ;  the 
wings  are  rosy  Mush,  and  when  bunched  the 
effect  ia  charming.  The  floral  committee  of  the 
National  Sweet  Pea  Society  unanimously  voted 
it  a  firat-olass  certificate.  "The  King"  made 
many  wonder.  The  rows  were  simply  masses  of 
huge  crimson  "  butterfliea. "  Mr.  Cuthbertson 
says  it  burns  a  little,  but  it  seems  to  me  that  he 
hunted  for  a  fault.  I  had  the  privilege  of 
testing  a  group  here  last  year  and  I  did  not 
observe  it.     The  flowera  are  really  giants,  and  if 


136 


THE    GARDEN. 


[March  20,  1909. 


exhibitors  need  to  protect  it  from  strong  sunshine 
their  labour  will  not  be  in  vain.  Both  varieties 
are  Spencers.  —  A.  Malcolm,  Town  House, 
Dtma. 

Late  -  floweping^  Chrysanthe- 
mums.— May  I  attempt  to  set  those  growers 
right  who  seem  to  be  somewhat  mystified  over 
certain  varieties  ?  Framfield  Pink  is  one  of  the 
Continental  varieties  sent  ua  by  M.  Calvat.  It  was 
named  Mme.  Felix  Perrin  and  was  introduced 
as  an  exhibition  variety.  In  this  country  it 
became  almost  lost ;  but  the  Americans  found  it 
useful  and  obtained  a  spurt  of  darker  colour, 
which  they  named  Mrs.  Perrin.  This  was  grown 
here  and  privately  there  was  considerable 
enquiry  for  stock.  Blooms  were  sent  to 
market  from  Framfield,  and  became  known  as 
Framfield  Pink.  About  four  years  ago  a 
much  darker  sport  was  secured,  and  this  was 
certificated  as  Winter  Cheer.  It  is  of  a  sportive 
character  and  the  shades  of  pink  vary  con- 
siderably. It  is  best  when  the  blooms  are 
expanded  in  a  cool  house  well  exposed  to  the 
light.  When  kept  close  and  confined  the  blooms 
are  of  a  pale  colour.  Heston  White  is  a  sport 
from  it,  and  one  of  the  very  best  and  most  useful. 
Mr.  Strugnell  mentions  both  A.  J.  Balfour  and 
Nina  Balfour.  The  first  is  correct,  and  it  is  a 
variety  sent  out  by  the  late  Robert  Owen  of 
Maidenhead.  (There  is  a  border  Carnation  named 
Lady  Nina  Balfour. )  The  same  writer  also  men- 
tions white  and  yellow  Thomson.  The  yellow  of 
this  name  is  Mrs.  A.  Thomson,  a  small  and 
early-flowered  variety.  Mrs.  .Joseph  Thompson  I 
introduced  from  America.  It  is  popular  as  a  late 
white  variety,  and  the  yellow  in  three  shades 
sports  from  it.  L.  Canning  is  quite  out  of  date, 
being  too  soft  and  a  poor  grower  compared  with 
others.  Miss  Maud  Jefieries  is  a  tip-top  white  for 
December  flowering ;  a  fine  late  pink  is  Miss 
Miriam  Hankey.  The  best  and  most  useful 
yellow  among  singles  for  late  December  is  Little 
Barbee. — W.  J.  Godfrey,  Exmouth. 


WRITTEN     FROM    THE 
RIVIERA— FEBRUARY. 

Flowers  "  At  Home." 

SHOULD  we  call  February  spring  or 
winter  ?  In  England,  you  may  call  it 
what  you  will,  but  here  in  Provence 
it  is  distinctly  spring.  The  sun,  the 
flowers,  the  brilliant  gold  of  the 
Mimosa  trees  proclaim  it.  Not  so  the 
happy  cry  of  birds — that  charm  belongs  not  to 
this  district.  No  song-birds  are  nesting  in  the 
woods,  no  warblers  are  singing  in  the  shrubberies  ; 
the  thrifty  Provence  peasant  snares  them  all  and 
eats  them.  If  by  chance  you  hear  a  carolling 
and  trace  it  to  its  source,  ten  to  one  you  will  find 
nothing  but  a  caged  canary  hung  up  outside  the 
house.  This  is  common  enough,  for  people  must 
have  garden  music  somehow. 

But  "  grass  is  greening,"  as  in  the  spring  it 
should  ;  mostly  in  private  gardens,  however,  and 
places  where  great  pains  are  taken  with  it.  So 
parched  is  the  soil  in  summer  that  every  blade  of 
grass  dries  up.  Those  who  want  green  lawns  and 
borders  must  sow  fresh  grass-seed  every  year. 
Feeble  and  sparse  to  English  eyes  appear  the 
tender  shoots  as  they  come  up,  so  separate  as  to 
be  counted  easily.  There  is  not  the  slightest 
occasion  to  write  up  any  sort  of  difeiise  about 
stepping  on  them.  Nobody  would  have  the 
heart  to  do  it.  One  smiles  to  see  the  gardeners 
clipping  the  grass  edgings  for  the  first  time. 
They  do  it  very  gingerly  with  domestic  scissors. 
A  well-known  owner  of  two  large  gardens  in  this 
neighbourhood  uses  up  3  tons  of  grass  seed 
annually.  This  will  show  the  English  gardener 
that  the  Riviera,  though  such  a  happy  home  for 
flowers,  is  not  so  good  a  place  for  the  growing  of 
good  velvet  turf,  as  misty,  moist  England. 
There  is  a  certain  hotel,  a  little  further  south, 
where  the  water  that  works  the  lift  is  allowed  to 


run  all  over  the  garden  grass  almost  continually, 
a  plan  that  answers  very  well. 

As  to  flowers,  amid  the  pretty  crowd,  Violets, 
Anemones,  and  Roman  Hyacinths  are  now  thecom- 
monest  ;  the  two  former  are  often  grown  together 
in  large  beds  either  round  or  oblong.  The  Violets 
are  much  longer  stemmed  than  English  Violets, 
and  the  blooms  far  larger ;  but  do  they  smell 
quite  as  sweet '!  Truly  beautiful  are  they  to 
look  at,  however,  each  perfect  flower-head  well 
raised  above  its  dark  green  foliage.  Not  only  in 
private  gardens  are  beds  of  Violets  to  be  seen. 
Large  patches  of  them,  grown  for  the  market, 
are  met  with  in  the  vineyards  and  other  open 
spaces,  giving  the  most  delightful  surprises  as 
one  lights  upon  them  unexpectedly. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  Hyacinths  and 
Anemones.  Nothing  in  the  wide  world  is  more 
lovely  than  a  broad  stretch  of  Anemone  flowers 
while  in  full  bloom,  especially  when  they  are 
viewed  fore-shortened,  so  that  their  many 
different  hues  are  blended  rose  colour  and  scarlet, 
white  and  cream,  and  delicate  mauve  and 
purple.  It  is  like  the  splash  of  colour  thrown 
by  sunbeams  filtered  through  a  stained-glass 
window.  The  pure  white  of  the  Anemone  flowers 
suggests  the  purity  of  marble. 

Contrasts  in  the  garden  continue  to  amuse  us. 
Among  plants  we  are  accustomed  to  consider 
English,  it  is  quaint  to  see  the  central  point  a  Palm 
or  some  exotic  that  might  have  marched  straight 
out  of  a  conservatory  at  Kew  Gardens.  An 
Orange  tree  or  a  Lemon  bush  full  of  yellow  fruit 
may  be  next-door  neighbour  to  a  bed  of  blue 
Forget-me-nots,  coaxed  into  bloom  by  careful 
shading  and  watering.  The  next  bed  is  full  very 
likely  of  Camelias,  red  or  white  flowers  of  waxen 
beauty,  out  of  fashion  now  in  England,  but  here 
appreciated  to  their  heart's  content.  The  large- 
leaved  Saxifrages  are  gay  with  great  pink 
blooms,  and  make  a  handsome  edging  on 
borders  of  rock  or  stone.  A  good  deal  of  stone 
is  used  in  gardens  here  ;  it  is  plentiful  and  the 
best  uses  are  made  of  it. 

Above  all,  now  is  the  golden  harvest-time  of 
the  Mimosa  trees.  It  is  a  harvest  that  lasts  for 
many  weeks.  Packed  in  light,  flat  baskets  during 
the  whole  of  February,  throughout  March  and 
early  April,  trains  running  northward  are  daily 
carrying  the  feathery  branches  to  Paris,  London, 
Manchester  and  many  other  towns.  Lovely  as 
they  may  appear  to  northern  eyes,  no  one  who 
has  not  seen  these  flowers  growing  in  their 
own  country  can  form  a  true  idea  of  their  beauty 
when  absolutely  fresh,  nor  of  the  sweetness  and 
fragrance  or  the  delicious  fluffiness  of  their 
soft  yellow  balls.  Luckily,  though  there  ire  so 
many  kinds  of  Mimosa  (some  of  them  rare  and 
curious,  and  some  blooming  much  later  than 
others),  the  common  kind,  of  which  in  England 
we  see  the  most,  is  really  as  pretty  as  any.  Its 
plentifulness  is  indeed  an  extra  charm.  No 
peasant  of  Provence  is  so  poor  that  he  cannot  have 
a  sprig  of  it  to  put  in  the  button-hole  of  his 
blouse,  stick  in  his  cap,  or  place  beside  his  horse's 
ear.  Branches  are  carried  gaily  by  men,  women 
and  children,  much  as  in  England  they  carry  bits 
and  boughs  of  May  in  the  merry  spring-time. 

Just  while  Mimosa  trees  are  at  their  best,  the 
Almond  trees  light  up  their  rosy  pink,  and  after 
them  the  deeper-tinted  Peach-blooms  come  out 
suddenly  as  if  by  magic.  What  a  riot  of  colour  ! 
Pink  and  gold  and  the  rich  green  of  Pine  trees  ; 
above  and  beyond  all  the  blue  of  the  shining 
sea  Euid  sky. 

It  has  seemed  strange  to  go  through  a  whole 
winter  without  one  glimpse  of  an  English  Snow- 
drop ;  but  we  are  reminded  of  Snowdrops  every 
day.  Lifting  our  eyes  to  the^far-distant  peaks 
that  rise  so  fair  and  bare  above  the  purple  slopes, 
there  lie  cool  sheets  of  white  all  gleaming  in  the 
sun ;  these  are  the  Snowdrops  of  Provence — 
flowers  that  will  never  fade  or  die  or  wither  like 
other  Snowdrops,  but,  melting  imperceptibly  as 
the  sun  gets  stronger,  will  float  away  and  be  lost 
in  the  white  vapours  that  crown  the  summits  of 
the  Estorels.  Frances  A.  Bardswell. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


HOW  TO    PLANT   AN   ASPARAGUS 
BED. 

{In  reply  to  Major  H.  J.  B.'\ 

THE  Asparagus  is  a  native  plant  and 
found  growing  on  sandy  banks  near 
the  seashore,  therefore  it  follows  that 
it  thrives  best  on  warm,  light  land ;  but 
by  good  culture  and  proper  prepara- 
tion of  the  soil  it  can  be  made  to 
succeed  well  anywhere.  An  Asparagus  bed,  if 
well  prepared  and  carefully  planted,  will  last  in 
good  condition  indefinitely ;  therefore  a  little  extra 
expense  and  labour  in  forming  it  should  not  be 
considered. 

The  position  in  your  garden,  being  sunny  and 
warm,  could  not  be  better.  Your  soil  being  a 
heavy  loam  makes  it  necessary  to  secure  extra 
drainage.  (It  would  not  grow  at  all  in  badly 
drained,  wet,  cold  soil. )  The  first  thing  to  do 
in  your  case  will  be  to  drive  down  deeply  an  Oak 
post  or  pile  at  each  corner  of  the  bed,  4  feet 
apart  (which  will  be  the  width  of  the  bed),  and 
also  one  at  the  side,  defining  the  width  of  the 
paths,  which  should  be  '2  feet,  thus  : 


Posts 


o 

1 

o 

Path, 

■Ifeet  tDide 

O 

1 
o 

1 

Belt, 

ff  feet  wide. 

1 

1 

1 

o 

Path 

J!  feet  u'iih: 

1 
—  o 

The  stakes  should  be  made  of  well-seasoned 
Oak  ;  they  will  then  last  for  many  years,  always 
forming  a  landmark  defining  the  space  allotted  to 
the  bedf  and  paths,  and  which  should  be  reserved 
exclusively  for  the  Asparagus,  no  other  crop  of 
any  kind  being  allowed  any  portion  of  the  b^  or 
paths  at  any  time,  not  even  weeds.  The  bed  and 
paths  having  been  marked  out,  the  next  thing  to 
do  is  to  throw  out  the  whole  of  the  soil  from  the 
paths,  as  well  as  the  bed,  2  feet  deep,  stacking  it 
near  and  on  one  side.  This  having  been  done, 
break  up  the  bottom  subsoil  with  a  fork  or  pick 
if  necessary,  turn  over  and  leave  in  the  same 
place.  Next  place  on  the  bottom  a  layer  6  inches 
deep  of  rough  brick  ends,  broken  crocks,  stone  or 
any  other  hard,  imperishable  material,  choking 
up  the  top,  to  bring  it  level,  with  cinder  clinkers 
broken  small.  On  the  top  of  this  place  thin, 
tough  turves,  grass  side  downwards,  to  prevent 
the  drainage  being  choked  by  soil.  (It  is  taken 
for  granted  that  the  land  is  well  enough  drained 
to  permit  of  the  water  which  will  find  its  way 
into  this  drainage-bed  finding  an  outlet.)  The 
next  thing  is 

The  Soil. 

That  thrown  out  of  the  bed  should  be 
turned  over  and  the  worst  (the  heaviest)  thrown 
out  and  taken  away,  probably  one-fourth.  Add 
to  the  rest  one-third  of  its  bulk  of  good  rotten 
farmyard  manure  and  also  281b.  of  bone-meal  to 
every  cartload  of  soil  used,  also  add  three 
barrow-loads  to  each  cartload  of  soil  of  some 
opening  material  in  the  way  of  coarse  road 
grit,  old  mortar  or  plaster  rubble,  and  even 
coarse  sand  if  the  others  cannot  be  had  in  plentyt 
The  several  substances  mentioned  should  be 
carefully  mixed  with  the  soil  before  it  is 
placed  in  the  bed.  All  being  ready,  place  the 
prepared  soil  in  the  bed  (the  space  also  including 
the  paths).  When  this  is  done  it  will  be  found 
that  the  surface  of  the  bed  will  be  6  inches  or 
more  higher  than  the  surrounding  land.  The 
next  thing  to  do  will  be  to  tread  the  surface  of 
the  bed  down  (when  the  soil  is  dry)  and  rake 
over  smoothly  (not  the  paths)  ready  for  planting. 
The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to  stretch  a  garden  line 
in  the  first  place  down  the  centre  of  the  bed,  mark- 
ing the  places  where  the  plants  will  be  put  in 
by  inserting  a  small  stick  or  a  twig  of  a  branch 
at  distances  apart  of  IS  inches  all  along  the  line. 
Stretch  the  line  again  on  either  side  of  the  centre 
line  at  a  distance  from  it  of  18  inches,  inserting 


March  20,  1909.] 


THE    GAKDEN. 


137 


sticks  along  these  side  lines  the  same  as  the  centre  ! 
one  at  18  inches  apart,  thus  :  I 


The    bed  will    then    consist    of  three  rows  at 
18  inches  apart,  the  same  distance  separating  ; 
plant  from  plant  in  the  row. 

Planting. 

The  under-side  of  the  root  of  the  Asparagus  : 
plant  is  of  a  concave  form,  and  therefore  if  laid 
down  on  a  flat  surface  the  under  part  of  the 
orown  of  the  plant  would  not  come  in  contact 
with  the  soil,  to  its  detriment.     To  get  over  this 
difficulty,    small   mounds   of  fine  soil   (about    a 
couple  of  handfuls)  should  be  placed  in  the  middle 
where  the  small  sticks  are  and  the  plants  laid 
on  the  top  of  the  mounds,  pressing  them  gently 
but  firmly  down.     The  soil  of  the  small  mound 
will  then  well  fill  the  cavity  under  the  crown  of 
the  plant.  The  young  plants  having 
been  placed  in  position,  their  roots 
should  be  carefully  spread  out  on 
the  surface  of   the  soil,  and  then 
place   a   layer    of    fine    soil    from 
the  paths  over  each  plant  to  the 
depth  of  4  inches,  pressing  it  round 
the   roots   firmly   with  the   hands. 
This  completed,  add  as  much  soil 
to   the   surface    of    the    bed   from 
the  two  paths  as  will  cover  it  all 
over  to    the    same   depth    as   the 
plants  have  been  covered,  namely, 
4  inches.     Let   it  be  levelled   and 
completed  in  a  workmanlike  fashion 
— the  line  laid  down  each  side  of 
the  bed  and  paths,  trimming  them 
down   neatly  and,   lastly,   forking 
the  paths   over,  and  the  work   of 
forming  and  planting  the  bed   is 
complete.       Many   people    wonder 
why   the  paths   should   be  treated 
as  generously  as  the  bed  in  the  way 
of  manuring  and  high  cultivation. 
The  reason  is  that  in  a  very  short 
time    they    will    be    as     full     of 
Asparagus  roots  as  the  bed,   this 
plant   being  a  tremendous   rooter. 
The  best  time  to  plant  is  about  the 
end  of  the  third  week  in  March. 
One    year    old    plants    should    be 
used  (not  three  year  old).     Have 
the  bed  quite  ready  to  receive  the 
plants  before  they  are  delivered,  as 
exposure  to  the  air  for  any  length 
of  time  is  most  detrimental  to  the 
roots.      The  surface   of    the    bed 
when  finished  will  be  from  8  inches 
to  10  inches  higher  than  the  level 
of  the   surrounding  soil,  and    the 
paths    will    be  from  4    inches  to 
6    inches     lower    than    the    bed, 
thereby    securing    effective    surface    drainage. 
The  Giant  Argeuteuil  is  one  of  the  best  sorts  in 
every  respect. 

Summer  cultivation  will  consist  of  keeping 
down  weeds  and  of  occasional  watering  in  very 
dry  weather.  Some  "grass"  may  be  cut  the 
second  year  after  planting,  but  not  before.  The 
third  year  the  bed  should  be  in  full  bearing. 
Full  details  of  the  seasonable  culture  of  Aspara- 
gus beds  will  be  found  from  time  to  time  in  our 
weekly  calendar  of  operations  in  the  kitchen 
garden.  More  than  half  the  beds  in  the  country  are 
ruined  by  continuing  to  cut  the  young  grass  too 
late.  Cutting  should  cease  immediately  green 
Peas  are  in  season.  Like  every  other  plant,  the 
Asparagus  well  repays  good  cultivation,  and  no 
trouble  should  be  spared  in  bringing  the  shoots 
to  as  high  a  state  of  perfection  as  possible.  The 
better  treatment  the  plants  receive  the  longer 
will  they  continue  to  produce  good  crops,  and 
as  a  well-prepared  bed  will  last  for  years,  it 
is  advisable  to  prepare  it  thoroughly  at  the 
outset.  OwBN  Thomas. 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN. 

[how  to  grow  fruit  trees  in 

POTS. 
(Continued   from  page    ISil.) 

NOW,  when  the  fruits  on  the  trees  in 
a  particular  house  are  cleared 
off,  it  is  at  once  filled  up  with 
Figs  for  autumn  fruiting  ;  these 
continue  in  the  same  house,  ripening 
their  fruits  until  November,  when 
Figs  that  have  fruited  in  other  houses  are 
drafted  there  to  ripen  their  wood  prior  to  being 
either  potted  afresh  or  top-dressed  early  in 
January.  In  another  house  that  is  from  early 
in  January  devoted  to  Cherries  in  pots,  which 
yield  their  fruits  from  the  end  of  April  until 
the  first  week  in  June,  when  the  first  early 
Cherries  (Guigne  Annonay)  are  ripe  upon  a 
south  wall,  we  also  fill  up  with  Figs  that  have 


in  the  centre  (inside  measurement)  and  4  feet 
3  inches  at  the  sides,  that  of  the  24-feet  range 
being  10  feet  9  inches  and  5  feet  respectively. 
One  size  only  of  glass  is  used  upon  the  roofs, 
viz.,  20  inches  mde  by  15  inches  deep,  this  being 
a  "stock"  size,  hence  there  is  no  waste  in  cutting. 
Rather  more  than  half,  or  thereabouts,  of  the 
sides  are  of  glass  butted  together,  this  being  the 
upper  half.  The  other  or  lower  portion  is  of 
wood,  excepting  three  or  four  courses  of  brick- 
work for  foundation.  The  wooden  portion  is  in  the 
form  of  ventilators,  continuous  from  end  to  end. 
The  usual  order  of  opening  these  is  completely 
reversed,  these  being  hung  upon  hinges  at  the 
bottom,  and  thus  opening  outwards  at  the  top. 
This  may  strike  one  at  first  as  curious  or  illogical, 
but  in  practice  it  works  splendidly.  It  prevents 
the  ingress  of  cold  currents  of  air,  which  invari- 
ably strike  the  ground  first.  The  air  as  it  enters 
has  of  necessity  to  descend,  whence  it  is  warmed 
by  contact  with  the  hot-water  pipes  to  a  large 
extent.      By  means    of    levers    a  simultaneous 


TUB   NEW   ODONTIODA   BRADSHAWI.H  OOOKSON's   VARIETY.     (Natural  size.     See  pat/e  1U7.) 


been  standing  too  close  together  in  another 
house,  or  possibly  some  that  have  been  standing 
outside,  until  room  can  be  found  for  them  under 
glass.  Other  instances  could  be  quoted,  but  I 
think  those  given  are  sufficient  to  convey  an  idea 
of  the  uses  to  which  an  orchard  house,  well 
heated,  may  be  applied. 

Its  Construction. 

In  the  first  place,  I  will  say  that  elaborate  or 
costly  houses  are  not  necessary.  Ours  are  plain, 
well-built  structures  with  one  most  important 
feature,  viz.,  the  maximum  amount  of  light 
possible.  By  all  means  adopt  the  span-roof 
design,  if  such  can  be  contrived.  Ours  are  all 
span-roof,  some  being  18  feet  wide  and  others 
24  feet  wide,  the  former  with  one  pathway 
through  the  centre  and  an  arrangement  for  a 
Strawberry  shelf  over  the  path  and  under  the 
apex  of  the  roof,  the  latter  with  two  pathways, 
one  on  either  side,  and  a  shelf  not  over  the  path- 
way, but  on  one  side  and  nearest  to  the  centre. 
The  height  of  the  18-feet  range  is  9  feet  6  inches 


I  action  or  movement  is  effected  to  these  side 
ventilators.  The  top  ventilation  is  not  con- 
tinuous, but  at  intervals,  being  equivalent  to 
one  in  five,  or  thereabouts,  of  the  length.  This 
is  the  method  of  construction  in  each  orchard 
house,  but  the  heating  arrangements  are  slightly 
varied.  In  the  larger  size  of  houses  the  pipes 
are  all  fixed  flatwise,  but  in  the  smaller  ones  the 
outside  pipes  are  on  the  top  of  each  other  and 
close  to  the  ventilators.  Every  house  or  range 
is  provided  with  a  rain-water  tank  of  from 
1,200  to  1,500  gallons  capacity.  I  consider  this 
to  be  a  most  essential  feature,  the  supply  of 
rain-water  being  infinitely  preferable  to  any 
other. 

Forcing  and  Non-iorcing. 
Whether  forced  or  not,  the  orchard  house 
culture  of  trees  in  pots  is  equally  commendable, 
and  with,  say,  three  or  more  compartments 
both  may  be  successfully  combined.  In  our  case 
we  begin  with  Cherries  in  late  April,  and  continue 
until  the  first  earlies  are  ripe  upon  the  walls. 
Peaches   and   Nectarines,    and   Plums    too,    we 


138 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Makch  20,  1909. 


begin  with  by  the  first  week  in  May,  and 
continue  these  in  regular  succession  until  the  end 
of  July,  with  an  interval  during  August.  The 
demand  during  that  month  can  be  easily  met, 
but  it  begins  again  early  in  September  and 
continues  until  about  the  middle  of  October. 
During  this  latter  period  the  best  dessert  Plums 
are  the  most  important  supply.  Plums  also  form 
an  important  feature  during  the  latter  half  of 
May  until  the  middle  of  July  ;  thus  the  forced 
Plums  cover  a  period  of  two  months.  We  have 
grown  both  Apples  and  Pears  under  glass,  but 
these  have  had  to  be  given  up  for  the  greater 
extension  of  Fig  culture.  In  the  case  of  Figs, 
we  begin  to  pick  the  first  early  sort,  St.  .John's, 
about  the  first  week  in  March,  and  these  continue 
for  about  six  weeks  or  two  months.  As  alluded 
to  before,  Strawberries,  both  as  forced  plants 
and  as  late  crops,  are  grown  upon  shelves,  and 
Tomatoes  for  late  use  chiefly.  In  the  case  of 
trees  that  are  not  forced,  we  as  a  rule  flower  and 
set  them  in  an  absolutely  cold  house,  where  they 
stand  in  quantity  close  enough  to  fill  three  times 
the  space  later  on. 

Pot  Culture  v.  Planted -out  Trees. 

In  some  orchard  houses  the  planting-out 
system  is  adopted ;  but  then,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  it  is  not  possible  to  make  the  utmost  use 
of  the  room  as  under  pot  culture.  If  planted  out, 
extension  must  be  given  or  provided  for,  other- 
wise by  severe  pruning  gross  wood  is  made 
which  will  not  always  be  fertile.  Therefore, 
unless  the  house  be  capacious  and  the  num  ber  of 
trees  limited,  the  best  results  will  be  from  pots. 
Of  course,  if  the  labour  strength  is  not  sufficient 
to  work  the  pot  system,  recourse  must  be  had  to 
the  other.  To  grow  pot  trees  in  houses  that  are 
partially  shaded  by  trained  trees  next  to  the 
glass  isvto  court  failure.  It  has  been  often  tried, 
but  how  often  successfully  '>.  If  the  trained  trees 
are  against  the  wall,  in  the  ease  of  a  lean-to 
house,  then  pot  trees  may  be  managed  in  front  of 
them  so  long  as  they  are  not  in  the  least  shaded. 
In  this  arrangement,  too,  it  will  be  possible  to  do 
the  utmost  good  with  that  indispensable  article 
— the  syringe. 

Length  of  Life  of  Trees  in  Pots. 

In  the  case  of  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Cherries 
and  Plums,  the  advantage  in  this  particular  is 
on  the  side  of  pot  trees.  An  inspection  of  the 
immense  pyramid  Peaches  and  Nectarines  in  pots 
at  Sawbridgeworth  is  a  clear  proof  of  this  ;  many 
of  these  specimens  are  unique  in  their  way.  In 
some  instances  these  trees  are,  when  their  ages 
are  compared  with  their  size,  as  remarkable  as 
the  pigmy  conifers  of  the  Japanese  gardeners. 
But  more  remarkable  still  at  Sawbridgeworth, 
in  my  opinion  at  least,  are  the  Cherries  grown  in 
pots.  If  anyone  needs  an  explanation  respecting 
the  non-success  of  Cherries  and  their  fertility  in 
the  open  ground,  whether  it  be  as  trained  trees 
or  as  orchard  standards,  one  has  only  to  make 
an  inspection  of  these  trees  in  pots,  and  to  the 
close  observer  the  problem  will  be  solved  at  once. 
It  is  well  known  that  the  attendant  evil  of  canker 
often  persistently  follows  when  the  trees  are  over- 
luxuriant,  and  the  pruning  in  consequence  some- 
what severe.  This  is  an  object-lesson  that  every 
fruit-grower  should  see  for  himself.  Upon  com- 
paring the  size  of  the  pots  with  that  of  the  trees, 
it  seems  scarcely  possible  that  such  grand  crops 
could,  year  after  year,  be  produced.  The  fine 
quality  and  size  of  the  individual  fruits  are  also 
remarkable  ;  this  all  will  know  who  have  seen 
the  exhibits  of  Messrs.  Rivers  at  the  Royal  Hor- 
ticultural Society's  meetings  and  elsewhere  from 
time  to  time.  Our  own  experience  with  Plums 
is  also  almost  on  a  par  with  that  of  Cherries, 
notably  in  the  case  of  the  Transparent  Gage  sec- 
tion ;  these  are  notoriously  strong  growers  when 
planted  out,  but  when  in  pots  the  control  that  is 
brouglit  to  bear  results  in  the  utmost  profusion 
of  well-finished  fruits.  For  forcing,  to  yield  a 
supply  of  the  choicest  dessert  fruit  during  June 
and  July,  these  Transparent  Gages  are  of  the 
utmost  value.     Since  we  began  to  grow  orchird 


house  trees  in  pots  at  Gunnersbury  I  have  had 
but  very  few  deaths  to  record.  We  commenced 
with  pot  culture  in  a  small  way  in  1894  ;  now,  if 
we  count  Vines  and  Figs  in  pots,  there  are 
nearly  1,200  pots  in  all.  Some  of  the  trees  that 
were  forced  in  1896  are  still  thriving,  and  look 
as  well  as  ever  they  did  from  the  point  of  fruit- 
bearing  wood  and  the  present  abundant  promise  of 
bloom.  The  earliest  of  these  are  now  (January  26) 
just  opening  their  first  flowers ;  these  are  Cardinal 
Nectarine,  Duke  of  York  and  Duchess  of  Corn- 
wall Peaches,  and  Early  Transparent  and  Early 
Rivers'  Plums.  The  health  of  these  trees  is 
uniformly  good  throughout.  I  mention  this 
because  I  think  that  there  is  an  impression 
abroad,  and  this  has  been  confirmed  by  ques- 
tions that  have  often  been  put  to  me,  as  to  the 
longevity  of  pot  trees.  To  consider  them  as 
short-lived,  given  good  and  reasonable  treatment, 
is  a  popular  delusion. 

(To  he  continued.) 


FRUIT  NOTES. 
Mulching  Trees,  ^in  the  case  of  newly  planted 
trees  it  is  often  wise  to  defer  the  application  of 
any  mulching  material  until  the  end  of  May  or 
very  early  in  June,  when  the  sun  will  have 
warmed  the  soil,  and  it  is  desirable  to  keep  the 
surface  cool,  and  thus  encourage  the  roots  to 
remain  close  to  the  top  ;  but  pressure  of  work 
would  prevent  our  applying  this  rule  to  all  trees. 
It  is  sound  practice  to  give  attention  to  the 
matter  now,  while  there  is  time  for  it  to  be 
properly  carried  out.  It  is  immaterial  whether 
the  trees  are  growing  on  walls  or  in  the  open 
garden — all  alike  will  be  improved  by  such  dress- 
ings. In  the  case  of  wall  trees,  the  first  thing 
to  do  is  to  make  quite  sure  that  the  soil  is 
pleasantly  moist,  and  if  it  is  not  so,  let  heavy 
soakings  be  given  several  hours  in  advance  of 
surface  cultivation.  This  will  consist  of  carefully 
loosening  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  1  inch  or  2  inches, 
and  then  covering  in  with  short,  sweet  manure. 
Trees  in  the  open  will  probably  be  moist  enough 
about  the  roots,  and  it  will  suffice  in  their  case 
to  prick  over  the  surface  as  already  suggested, 
and  at  once  apply  the  manure.  In  the  event  of 
heavy  rains  following  and  beating  the  dressing 
down  into  a  close  mass,  the  grower  should  take 
a  favourable  opportunity  of  stirring  it  up  with  a 
fork,  as  it  is  most  desirable  that  air  shall  always 
have  free  passage. 

Gooseberries. — I  always  like  to  leave  the 
pruning  of  the  Gooseberries  until  the  last  possible 
moment,  because  birds  are  apt  to  demand  too 
generous  a  toll  of  the  buds  when  the  bushes  are 
open  and  free  of  access  ;  but  it  is  now  necessary 
that  the  work  shall  be  carried  forward  to  com- 
pletion. The  principal  cutting  must,  of  course, 
be  done  to  spurs  ;  but  it  is  wise  to  allow  of  some 
extension,  unless  the  whole  of  the  available  space 
is  fully  occupied,  and  also  to  leave  in  a  few  of  the 
previous  season's  shoots,  as  these  will  produce 
fruits  of  exceptionally  fine  quality,  as  well  as  en- 
courage root  action.  If  birds  still  prove  trouble- 
some, it  will  be  necessary  to  freely  enmesh  the 
trees  with  black  thread,  which  the  birds  do  not 
appreciate,  or  to  spray  them  occasionally  with  a 
solution  of  soft  soap  and  quassia,  using  about  3oz. 
of  each  to  the  gallon  of  water.  Another  deterrent 
is  to  scatter  a  mixture  of  soot  and  lime  among  the 
branches  when  these  are  wet ;  but  the  operation  is 
very  far  from  being  a  pleasant  one  to  carry  out. 
As  soon  as  these  details  have  had  proper  attention 
the  soil  should  be  loosened  and  mulched  with 
manure,  as  advised  in  the  preceding  paragraph. 

Morello  Cherries. — These  are  among  the 
most  useful  of  all  fruit  trees  for  planting  against 
north  walls,  where  the  choicer  kinds  will  not 
thrive  satisfactorily.  In  such  a  position,  if  the  soil 
were  well  prepared  at  the  outset,  with  manure  and 
lime  rubble  incorporated  according  to  necessity, 
the  Morello  will  grow  splendidly,  and  regularly 
each  year  carry  a  heavy  crop  of  fruit,  to  which, 
although  it  is  not  sweet,  it  may  be  noted,  birds 
are  extremely  partial.     The  management  of  the 


trees  differs  entirely  from  that  accorded  to  sweet 
Cherries,  as  the  pruning  is  precisely  that  of 
Peaches  and  Nectarines,  whereas  sweet  varieties 
are  cut  close  into  the  spurs  on  the  old  wood.  No 
time  should  now  be  lost  in  laying  in  the  young 
wood  that  is  to  carry  the  fruit,  and  the  main 
point  to  keep  in  view  is  avoidance  of  any 
semblance  of  crowding.  Wherever  there  is  plenty 
of  space  to  lay  in  a  shoot  let  it  be  done  ;  but  the 
grower  who  attempts  to  pack  in  the  growths  will 
lose  in  quality  and  bulk  of  crop. 

Planting.  — Any  work  of  this  nature  that  still 
remains  to  be  finished  should  be  put  in  hand  when- 
ever the  weather  conditions  are  favourable.  With 
the  soil  in  a  free-working,  friable  state,  the  opera- 
tion can  be  done  expeditiously  and  well ;  but  it 
must  on  no  account  be  attempted  when  the  soil  is 
sodden  with  water.  The  station  should  have  only 
sufficient  depth  to  comfortably  accommodate  the 
roots,  which  should  be  spread  out  to  their  full 
extent  with  fibrous  loam  or  other  good  soil 
worked  firmly  between  the  layers.  Never  cramp 
the  holes  in  the  matter  of  diameter,  as  the  roots 
will  soon  extend.  Fruit-grower. 


HINTS    ON  VINE    CULTURE. 

(Continued  from  page  luS.) 
Making  the  Border  and  Planting. 
It  is  safer  for  the  amateur  to  have  a  border  so 
constructed  that  the  roots  of  the  Vines  can  per- 
meate it  both  inside  and  outside  of  the  house, 
with  the  Vines  planted  inside.  Thirty  years  ago 
<; rape-growers  usually  made  very  deep  borders, 
and  gardeners  of  the  present  time,  when  overhaul- 
ing such  borders,  find  few  roots  in  them  and  none 
that  is  quite  sound  near  the  bottom.  How  can 
roots  live  and  sustain  a  Vine  as  they  ought  to 
when  at  the  bottom  of  a  cold  bed  quite  away  from 
the  sun's  warmth?  A  body  of  soil  20  inches  deep 
is  sufficient  if  there  is  thorough  drainage  below 
it.  Another  mistake  often  made  is  the  inclusion 
of  several  kinds  of  organic  and  concentrated 
chemical  manures.  Some  crushed  and  half-inch 
bones  may  be  put  in  in  small  quantities  when  the 
border  is  constructed,  but  feeding  is  best  done 
when  the  soil  is  well  filled  with  roots.  Large 
masses  of  manure  render  the  soil  sour,  and  roots 
will  not  then  enter  it. 

Again,  there  is  no  need  to  make  a  wide  border  ; 
some  growers  fill  it  up  to  the  whole  width  of  the 
house,  and  also  a  corresponding  space  outside,  at 
the  commencement.  Of  course,  the  roots  of  the 
Vines  do  not  take  possession  of  all  this  compost 
at  once.  Several  years  pass  before  a  full  comple- 
ment of  roots  fill  it,  and  in  the  meantime  the 
soil  is  becoming  sour  and  of  less  value  as  a  root- 
ing medium.  Make  the  border  4  feet  wide  at 
first  and  22  inches  deep.  If  a  width  of  18  inches 
or  2  feet  be  added  annually  afterwards,  the 
cultivator  will  be  astonished  at  the  good  progress 
of  the  Vines.  Autumn  or  winter  planting  is  the 
best  for  amateurs  to  adopt.  If  the  Vines  are 
not  planted  while  the  buds  are  dormant,  it  is 
better  to  wait  until  the  beginning  of  May  when 
new  shoots  are  growing.  The  drainage  material 
must  be  about  9  inches  or  1  foot  deep.  Put 
turves  on  the  drainage  rubble,  grass  side  down- 
wards, and  then  fill  up  with  turves  chopped 
into  four  pieces.  Add  a  little  old  mortar  rubble 
as  the  soil  is  being  built  up,  as  Vines  much 
appreciate  it.  Allow  the  soil  to  settle  down, 
only  treading  on  it  lightly,  then  spread  out  the 
roots  of  the  Vines  evenly  and  cover  them  with 
somewhat  finer  compost  4  inches  deep  and  make 
it  moderately  firm.  Old  pasture  ground  pro- 
vides the  best  turves.  Give  sufficient  water  to 
settle  the  soil  around  the  roots. 

Good  Varieties  for  Amateurs.  —  For  early 
gathering  the  following  varieties  are  the  best : 
Black  Hamburgh,  Foster  s  Seedling,  Madresfield 
Court  and  Buckland  Sweetwater.  For  later  use 
plant  Alicante,  Gros  Colmar,  Gros  Maroc,  Muscat 
of  Alexandria  and  Lady  Downe's  Seedling. 
The  last-named  keeps  in  good  condition  until 
April  of  the  following  year.  G. 

(To  he  continued.  J 


March  20,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


139 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

FORCED  BULBS  AND  EELWORMS. 

HAVING  suffered  heavily  from  the 
ravages  of  these  creatures,  I  thought 
it  well  to  give  a  note  of  warning  to 
others,  so  that  they  might  at  least  be 
able  to  recognise  their  foes  if  attacked 
by  them,  for  it  is  often  a 
considerable  gain  in  time  to  know  what 
kind  of  enemy  to  look  for  and  fight 
against  when  one's  plants  go  wrong.  I 
do  not  for  a  moment  think  that  this 
pest  is  anything  new,  but  I  do  think 
that  a  great  many  growers  have  suffered 
from  its  ravages  without  finding  the 
true  cause  and  have  laid  the  blame  on 
the  wrong  thing — some  to  the  bulbs, 
others  to  soil,  and  others  again  to  wrong 
plunging  material. 

In  the  case  of  our  own  firm  we  had 
been  plagued  with  these  creatures  for 
several  years  before  finding  out  the 
cause,  and  in  the  end  the  discovery 
was  made  through  inference.  A  few 
Primula  plants  turned  sickly,  and  on 
turiiing  them  out  the  roots  were  found 
to  be  so  swollen  as  almost  to  resemble 
Chinese  Artichokes  ;  this  was  found  to 
be  the  work  of  eelworms.  It  then 
occurred  to  some  of  us  that  the  failure 
of  some  pot  Hyacinths  might  be  attri- 
butable to  the  same  cause,  and  after  a 
very  careful  examination  we  found  this 
to  be  the  case. 

Some  Hyacinths  had  beei  potted  up 
for  trial  and  nearly  all  were  a  failure  ; 
they  showed  good  fat  buds  between  the 
leaves  and  then  stood  still,  refusing  to 
grow  any  more  or  expand  their  blooms. 
The  worst  examples  were  in  the  case  of 
bulbs  which  had  been  kept  very  dry  in 
a  cold,  dark  shed  (to  carry  out  an 
experiment)  ;  these  had  made  roots 
freely  enough,  but  every  bit  had  been 
destroyed  by  the  eelworms,  and  when 
turned  out  of  their  pots  we  found  they 
were  trying  to  form  fresh  roots.  For 
some  time  we  wondered  whether  the 
worms  had  caused  the  mischief  or  were 
only  eating  up  decayed  roots  which  had 
gone  wrong  from  some  other  cause  ; 
but  the  fact  of  bulbs  which  had  been 
kept  the  driest  being  the  worst  seemed 
to  argue  against  that  theory,  and  at 
last  I  was  satisfied  in  my  own  mind 
that  the  eelworra  was  the  culprit,  when, 
after  spending  a  long  time  with  a  strong 
hand-magnifier,  I  discovered  the  head 
or  tail  of  two  of  the  brutes  sticking  out 
of  a  white,  healthy  root,  but  which, 
under  the  glass,  showed  signs  of  collapse, 
for  these  pests  seem  to  tunnel  out  the 
root,  leaving  the  skin  to  decay  away. 

The  next  question  arose :  Where  do 
these  creatures  come  from '!  This  was 
soon  answered,  for  on  going  to  the  turf- 
heap  and  pulling  some  pieces  asunder 
our  grower  came  across  a  perfect  nest  of 
them  between  the  rootlets  of  grass,  and 
further  search  showed  the  turf  to  be 
alive  with  them.  Since  making  the 
discovery  I  have  had  several  lots  of 
bulbs  sent  to  me  to  know  what  was 
wrong  with  them,  and  all  were  found  to 
be  suffering  from  the  same  thing,  so  that 
it  appears  the  pest  must  be  pretty  general.  In  the 
case  of  my  own  firm  we  have  lost,  or  partly  lost, 
forced  bulbs  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips  and  Narcissi. 
Of  the  last  named  all  the  large  trumpet  Djffodils 
seem  worse  affected  than  the  incomparabilis  and 
other  short-cupped  varieties,  probably,  I  think, 
because  the  larger  and  more  fleshy  roots  of  the 
former  were  more  to  the  liking  of  the  ravagers. 

This  pest  is  not  easy  to  find,  for  it  is  only 
about  the  thickness  of  a  human  hair  and  from 


one-eighth  of  an  inch  to  half  an  inch  long ;  in 
colour  it  is  nearly  white.  It  would  often  escape 
detection  if  it  were  not  for  the  wriggling  of  the 
creature  when  exposed  to  light.  I  have  found  a 
large  hand-magnifier  the  best  thing  to  find  them 
with,  as  it  covers  a  large  field  and  is  yet 
powerful  enough  to  show  up  the  "game"  when 
one  knows  what  to  look  for ;  in  fact,  a  person 
with  good  eyes  can  find  them  unaided. 


seemed  to  rather  like  it  than  otherwise.  I 
would  suggest  that  any  grower  who  has  been 
troubled  in  the  past  should  in  future  try  old 
garden  soil  in  preference  to  turfy  loam  when  pot- 
ting up  his  bulbs,  for  I  do  not  think  such  soil  would 
be  likely  to  contain  eelworms  ;  constant  turning 
over  and  the  attention  of  robins  and  other  insect- 
eating  birds  would,  I  think,  soon  rid  garden  soil 
of  them,  even  if  it  contained  plenty  to  start  with. 
Of  course,  good  turfy  loam  is  preferable 
if  it  can  be  had  free  from  insects  of  sorts, 
but  bulbs  would  succeed  far  better  in 
the  poorest  of  poor  soils  than  in  the  best 
of  loam  which  contained  eelworms.  This 
has  been  proved  conclusively  in  my  own 
case  this  very  season,  for  bulbs  from  the 
same  stocks  grown  in  fibre  in  china  bowls 
have  flowered  well,  while  those  potted 
in  turfy  loam  have  been  complete  or 
partial  failures. 

Perhaps  some  of  your  correspondents 
may  have  suggestions  to  make  as  to 
getting  rid  of  this  little  beast,  which 
though  small  in  bulk  is  yet  mighty  in  evil 
deeds.  J.  DnNOAX  Peakson. 

The  Nurseries,  Lowdham,  Notts. 


SEEDLING  GLADIOLUS   HAINE.     {See  yage  lltO.) 

The  next  question  is  how  to  avoid  the  trouble, 
and  here  I  badly  want  to  receive  an  answer,  for 
at  present  I  am  unable  to  give  one  myself.  No 
doubt  sterilising  the  soil  by  means  of  steam  would 
be  a  cure,  but  very  few  have  the  apparatus 
necessary  to  carry  this  out.  In  our  own  case  we 
had  tried  Vaporite  on  the  soil  in  which  the 
bulbs  failed  this  year,  and  at  a  much  greater 
strength  than  is  advised  by  the  makers.  A  great 
many  other  pests  were  killed,  but  the  eelworms 


THE  SMALL  GREENHOUSE 
FOR  PLEASURE  AND 
PROFIT. 

One  of  the  chief  delights  of  the  amateur 
gardener  of  to-day  is  that  he  be  the 
possessor  of  a  small — often  very  small — 
greenhouse,  in  which  he  may  grow  the 
flowers  of  his  choice,  and  that  delightful 
miscellany  of  plants  and  cuttings,  the 
outcome  of  purchases  or  exchanges,  that 
are  so  very  dear  to  him.  Indeed,  it  is 
just  in  that  infinity  of  variety,  in  con- 
junction with  the  little  history  attaching 
to  almost  every  plant  or  cutting  grown, 
that  the  amateur  feels  and  experiences 
that  boundless  pleasure  that  it  is  to  be 
hoped  will  long  remain  with  him.  For 
apart  from  the  pleasure  afforded  him  by 
the  fact  that  he  grows  all  the  flowers 
that  now  adorn  either  his  table  or  his 
garden,  there  is  that  fuller  knowledge, 
touched  by  pleasurable  pride,  that  it  is 
the  work  of  his  own  hands,  and  that  he 
had  hitherto  greatly  under-estimated  his 
own  gardening  skill.  The  knowledge 
and  the  facts  inspire  him  not  unnatu- 
rally to  greater  efforts,  and  presently, 
and  all  unawares,  he  finds  himself  not  a 
customer  of  his  former  greengrocer,  but 
the  reverse,  the  greengrocer  taking 
gladly  all  the  Tomatoes  he  can  spare. 
And  it  is  not  infrequently  the  case,  when 
the  shopkeeper  has  expressed  his 
willingness  to  take  all  available  surplus 
supplies,  that  the  amateur  for  the  first 
time  realises  that  with  a  little  more 
glass  and  a  little  help  occasionally  in  the 
'  garden  something  more  might  be  done. 
Then  it  is,  touched  by  the  first  flush  of 
success,  that  the  amateur  decides  upon 
an  extension  in  the  hope  of  joining 
pleasure  with  profit.  He  is  encouraged 
in  this  by  the  obvious  improvement  in 
health  and  temperament,  and  he  has 
found  unmistakably  that  his  little  gar- 
dening hobby  has  proved  an  elevating, 
health-giving  recreation  that  was  un- 
known before. 
Pleasure  and  Profit-  —  The  latter  in  this 
connexion  must  not  be  misinterpreted,  as  it  is 
hardly  possible  with  a  quite  small  greenhouse  and 
small  garden  to  make  money,  but  rather  to  so 
arrange  matters  that  the  produce  grown  covers 
the  entire  cost,  the  proprietor  meanwhile  obtain- 
ing his  own  supplies  of  many  things,  with  which 
is  ever  associated  the  beauty  and  the  freshness 
of  the  home-grown  article.  As  there  are  many 
amateurs  at  the  present  time  who  would  like  to 


140 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  20,  1909. 


make  such  a  venture,  I  purpose  giving  a  few  hints 
as  a  sort  of  guide  at  the  start,  showing  what  to 
grew  for  main  and  succession  crops,  how  to  plant 
and  generally  how  to  make  a  sort  of  multum  in 
parvo  of  the  glass  or  greenhouse  best  suited  to 
the  purpose.  There  is,  of  course,  at  the  outset 
the  important  item  of  the  greenhouse,  its 
position,  heating,  it  use  in  winter  as  well  as  at 
other  times,  each  of  which  I  hope  to  touch  upon 
in  simple  and  clear  terms  which  will  be  under- 
standable by  the  vast  majority  of  readers. 

7%e  Oreenhcmse. — In  those  instances  where  the 
occupier  is  also  the  freeholder  a  more  or  less 
substantial  structure  should  be  considered. 
Where  the  occupier  is  tenant  only,  a  less 
substantial  structure  will  do  quite 
well  unless  a  long  lease  is  held  of 
the  property.  In  the  case  of  a  short 
lease,  a  structure  known  as  a 
"tenant's  fixture"  will  be  best. 
Such  a  structure  may  rest  on  a 
course  of  bricks  laid  into  the  soil, 
and  is  removable  at  will. 

Position. — The  best  position  for  a 
greenhouse  of  the  kind  we  have  in 
mind  is  one  that  is  quite  removed 
from  the  shade  of  large  trees,  and 
equally  so  from  the  shade  of  any 
large  building  or  dwelling.  In  short, 
the  fullest  unrestricted  light  is  as 
great  a  necessity  as  the  greenhouse 
itself ;  anything  opposed  thereto  will 
but  end  in  thin  and  weakly  ex- 
amples of  plants  that  can  never  give 
any  satisfaction.  If  some  such  posi- 
tion as  this  be  not  available,  the 
project  is  hardly  worth  further  con- 
sideration from  the  present  point  of 
view. 

The  Bight  Sort  oj  Greenhouse. — 
The  best  type  of  house,  best, 
beause  of  its  many  clear  advan- 
tages to  receive  the  fullest  light 
available,  and  best  also  because  of 
its  get-at-ableness  without  and 
within,  is  that  known  as  span-roofed. 
Such  a  house  may  be  ventilated  on 
the  south  and  north  sides  of  the  roof 
if  the  aspect  is  right,  and,  when 
necessary,  may  also  be  ventilated  at 
each  side  by  means  of  openings  in 
the  side  walls.  The  only  other  type 
of  house  is  that  with  the  lean-to  roof, 
and  there  is  that  modification  of 
the  lean-to  house  which  is  known 
as  hip-roofed.  Situated  in  clear, 
open  surroundings,  either  of  the 
latter  may  be  made  serviceable  for 
certain  classes  of  plants,  and  if  of 
south  aspect  would  be  of  especial 
value  for  Grapes  or  Peaches  under 
glass.  For  various  other  crops, 
however,  this  lean-to  type  is  less 
satisfactory.  The  lean-to  structure 
is  certainly  worthy  of  consideration 
in  a  garden  where  a  high  wall 
already  exists ;  and  if  no  other 
impediment  offers,  such  a  wall 
should  be  turned  to  good  account. 

Its  Aspect.  —  Where    the    fullest 
winter  sunlight  is  courted  or  desired, 
there  is  no  aspect  to  equal  that  of  a 
house  running  due  east  and  west, 
broadside  on  to  the  south.     If  thei     points  are 
not    available    by    reason    of    space  and    other 
circumstances,   the  nearest    approaches    thereto 
should  be  considered.     In  the  position  indicated, 
the   morning   sun   is    quickly   felt,   and   this  in 
winter  time  is  of  supreme  importance  for  most 
flowering  subjects.     A  house  running  north  and 
south    receives   but    a    modified   degree   of  the 
sunlight   in    winter   time,  the  occupants   of  the 
house    obtaining    little   good    from    it.     On  the 
other  hand,  when  the  sun  strikes  the  house  broad- 
side, the  whole  of  the  occupants  feel  it  instantly. 

Hampton  Hill.  E.  H.  .Jenkins. 

(To  be  continued.) 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

GLADIOLUS  GANDAVENSIS. 

THERE  are  to-day  several  distinct 
types  of  auturan-flowering  'Gladiolus, 
each  of  which  has  its  own  particular 
beauty  and  characteristics,  and  doubt- 
less its  special  admirers.  We  all  have 
our  preferences.  My  own  is  very 
decidedly  for  the  gandavensis  type.  The 
Lemoinei,  the  Nanceianus,  the  Saundersii  and 
the  Childsii  are  beautiful  and  most  welcome 
variations,  with  their  dark-spotted  throats  or 
their  looser  and  larger  flowers  :  but  they  have 


IJLADIOLOS     MARKS     BAKN. 


iiot  that  quiet  dignity  and  rich  appearance  which 
I  always  have  associated  with  this  handsome 
autumn  flower. 

History. 
The  possibility  of  raising  hybrids  dates  from 
the  introduction  of  "Cape"  plants  into  European 
gardens  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  but  it  was  not  till  1841  that  the 
celebrated  nurseryman,  Louis  van  Houtte,  first 
offered  the  hybrid  Gladiolus  which  he  had  found 
in  the  Duke  of  Areraberg's  garden  at  Enghien 
under  the  name  of  Gladiolus  gandavensis.  It  at 
once  created  ajtirore  in  the  floral  world,  and  soon 
became  widely  distributed. 


The  next  step  was  its  improvement.  The  name 
of  M.  Souohet  of  Fontainebleau  is  the  one  which 
is  best  known  in  this  connexion,  until  we  come 
to  the  last  two  or  three  decades,  when  Max 
Leichtlin,  Lenioine  and  Kelway  take  his  place, 
and  bring  us  to  the  present-day  workers,  among 
whom  we  must  include,  besides  themselves, 
Vilmorin-Andrieux  and  Co.  of  Paris  ;  .John 
Lewis  Childs,  in  the  United  States  ;  H.  H. 
Groff,  in  Canada ;  G.  Mair  and  Son,  in  Scotland ; 
and  W.  C.  Bull  of  Ramsgate,  England. 
British  Workers. 
No  one  can  dispute  for  one  moment  the  com- 
manding position  that  the  firm  of  Kelway  and 
Son  of  Langport  have  occupied  in  connexion 
with  this  flower  for  the  past  fifty 
years.  Since  Mr.  James  Kelway 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  as  a 
decorative  plant  no  Gladiolus  '  ■  could 
compare  for  grandeur,  grace  and 
beauty  to  the  gandavensis  hybrids," 
and  accordingly  obtained  in  18S7  all 
the  best  of  M.  Souchet's  raising 
that  were  in  commerce,  the  firm 
have  introduced  a  vast  number  of 
varieties,  which  have  gradually 
become  more  varied  in  colour,  finer 
in  the  size  of  the  individual  flowers 
and  longer  in  the  length  of  their 
spikes.  The  illustration  of  Marks 
Bam  shows  a  good  type,  a  modern 
flaked  flower  raised  by  Messrs. 
Kelway  and  Son. 

About  ten  years  ago  Messrs. 
George  Mair  and  Son  of  Prestwick, 
N.B.,  began  to  hybridise  ganda- 
vensis, and  they  have  been  very 
successful.  They  had  a  small  but 
excellent  collection  of  some  of  their 
best  varieties  at  Shrewsbury  last 
year.  Another  worker  in  the  same 
field  is  Mr.  W.  C.  Bull  of  Ramsgate. 
He  has  more  especially  turned  his 
attention  towards  the  lighter  shades, 
and  it  is  his  ambition  to  give  the 
world  a  pure  white  and  a  pure 
yellow.  Naturally,  he  has  not 
neglected  the  introduction  of  the 
yellow  Gladiolus  primulinus  some 
four  years  ago  from  the  Zimbesi, 
but  it  is  too  soon  at  present  to  be 
able  to  say  how  much  nearer  it  has 
brought  him  to  his  ideal  Haine, 
which  is  figured  on  page  1.39,  is  one 
of  his  best  yellows  :  but,  alas  I  it 
spawns  so  sparsely  that  it  will  be 
some  time  before  it  can  be  sent  out. 
French  Raisers. 
The  most  noted  firm  are  V. 
Lemoine  and  Son  of  Nancy.  They 
make  a  speciality  of  the  Lemoinei 
and  Nanceianus  varieties.  Vilmorin- 
Andrieux  and  Co.  also  introduce 
Souchet  seedlings  (gandavensis  type) 
from  year  to  year,  but  I  am  uncer- 
tain if  they  raise  many  themselves. 

OCLTIVATION. 

The  first  requisite  for  success  is  a 
proper  preparation  of  the  ground. 
The  site  for  planting  fliould  be 
double  dug  in  the  winter  to  the 
depth  of  IJ  feet  to  2  feet  and  a 
good  dressing  of  old  manure  and 
bone-meal  mixed  with  the  lower  spit.  The 
gandavensis  class  like  a  fairly  stiff  and  deep 
loam  with  good  drainage,  hence  the  benefit 
of  double  digging.  In  gardens  where  the  soil 
is  very  sandy  or  shallow  they  are  not  so  easy 
to  manage,  for  they  will  require  very  great 
attention  both  to  watering  and  feeding.  Speak- 
ing generally,  probably  the  best  time  for  planting 
is  during  the  first  three  weeks  of  April  in  the 
open  ground  ;  but  if  early  bloom  is  wanted,  or  if 
it  is  wished  to  hurry  on  the  later  kinds  so  that 
they  may  bloom  before  frost,  they  may  be  started 
in  pots  in  March  and  planted  out  at  the  end  of 
the  next  month.     Having  made  the  ground  firm, 


Cfyptn-ifj/if,  K.  .( 


March  20,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


141 


the  oorms  may  be  put  in  about  4  inohes  or  5  inches 
deep  and  6  inches  apart,  leaving  some  10  inches 
between  the  rows.  Stake  the  plants  when  they 
have  grown  about  IS  inches  with  stakes  suffi- 
ciently long  to  support  the  spikes  later  on  at  the 
end  of  July.  Careful  fastening  is  necessary,  as 
the  stems  are  brittle,  and  wind  and  small  birds 
alighting  on  them  are  apt  to  break  them.  If 
June  and  July  are  dry  months,  a  good  soaking 
once  every  ten  days  will  be  of  much  benefit.  I 
have  found  a  thin  mulch  of  fine  peat  a  great  help 
at  such  times.  The  Gladioli  like  a  bright  sunny 
position,  sheltered  if  possible  from  north  and 
east  winds.  They  are  sun-loving  plants,  and  do 
best  when  given  a  bed  to  themselves.  If  they 
are  planted  in  a  herbaceous  border,  they  must  be 
in  positions  where  they  are  not  shaded  by  strong- 
growing  plants  and  where  their  roots  may  get  a 
proper  amount  of  nourishment.  The  end  of 
October  is  a  good  time  to  lift  the  plants,  and  the 
operation  should  be  carried  out  whether  the  tops 
are  green  or  not.  I  generally  hang  them  up  in 
bundles  in  a  cool  outhouse  to  dry  for  a  week  or 
two,  and  then  out  off  the  old  stems  close  to  the 
corm,  when  these  latter  may  be  put  in  any  cool 
and  perfectly  dry  place  in  single  layers  on  trays 
or  else  stored  in  fair-sized,  open  bags  until  next 
planting-time. 

What  to  Bdt. 

For  clumps  in  borders  nothing  is  much  better 
than  the  old  bright  scarlet  G.  hrenchleyensis  or 
Van  Dael  (Bull  and  Mair).  This  latter  is  a 
beautiful  pale  pink  and  a  good  doer.  It  is  a 
variety  which  would  make  a  nice  companion  to 
G.  hrenchleyensis  if  planted  in  alternate  clumps. 
The  named  varieties  are  legion,  and  I  feel  sure 
that  anyone  putting  themselves  in  the  hands  of 
any  firm  who  make  a  speciality  of  Gladiolus, 
such  as  Messrs.  Kelway  and  Son  (Langport), 
Messrs.  Mair  and  Son  (Pre?twick.  N.B. ),  Messrs. 
Wallace  and  Co.  (Colchester),  Messrs.  Hogg  and 
Robertson  (Dublin)  and  Mr.  W.  C.  Bull  (Kams- 
gate),  and  asking  for  a  good  representative  collec- 
tion will  be  well  served.  For  the  sake  of  those 
who  would  like  to  grow  a  few  of  the  choicest  I 
append  a  short  list  :  Roberval  (Bull),  clear 
salmon  pink,  with  white  blotch  ;  Sans  Pareil, 
bright  orange  rose,  with  large  white  blotch,  very 
good ;  Marie  Therese,  creamy  white  ;  .Teanie 
Smith  (Mair),  scarlet ;  Lady  Muriel  Digby  (Kel- 
way), white,  with  cherry  blotches :  Golden 
Measure  (Kelway),  beautiful  yellow,  very  fine  ; 
Darkness  (Kelway),  rich  blood  red  ;  Janet  Mair 
(Mair),  cherry  red,  with  white  blotch;  Mnie. 
P.  Palmer,  rosy  carmine  :  Mrs.  Finnic  (Mair), 
bright  rose  ;  Haine  (Bull),  pale  yellow  ;  Safrano, 
pale  yellow,  petals  crimped  and  edged  with 
rose ;  Duke  of  Richmond  (Kelway),  rosy  pink  : 
Carnation,  rosy  white,  edged  with  oarnuiie  : 
La  France,  a  pale  carnation  ;  and  Hercules, 
vermilion.  Joseph  Jacob. 


SNOWDROPS  AT   CASTLE    MENZIES. 

The  accompanying  illustration  is  from  a  photo- 
graph taken  by  Lady  Marjorie  Dairy mple  and 
kindly  sent  to  us  by  Lady  Menzies.  The 
Snowdrops  are  growing  in  the  woods  at  Castle 
Menzies  and  amply  demonstrate  their  value  for 
naturalisation  where  the  bulbs  can  be  left 
undisturbed  year  after  year.  As  will  be  seen, 
they  form  a  perfect  carpet  of  white,  their  quiet 
beauty  being  considerably  enhanced  by  the  large 
and  old  Sycamore  trees  towering  above  them. 
Much  more  might  be  done  in  the  way  of  beautify- 
ing the  more  open  spaces  in  woods  by  the 
planting  of  hardy  bulbs,  a  feature  of  gardening 
which  is  becoming  more  popular  every  year. 


HOW  TO  GROW  ANNUAL  FLOWERS. 
In  a  paper  given  by  Mr.  Alfred  Watkins  before 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  the  following 
remarks  occurred  on  the  way  to  grow  annual 
flowers.  These  notes  from  so  well-known  an 
authority  are  valuable : 


No  doubt,  among  the  readers  of  my  paper 
will  be  many  experts  and  a  few  amateurs,  of 
whom  some  are  probably  more  or  less  experts  in 
various  departments  of  floriculture. 

It  is  not  so  much  these,  who  probably  know 
the  annual  flowers  almost  as  well  as  the  Roses, 
Orchids,  and  florists'  flowers,  as  it  is  the  small 
amateur  gardener  who  keeps  only  one  man 
or  who  cultivates  his  garden  himself,  whom  I  wish 
to  impress  with  the  great  beauty  and  capabilities 
of  many  of  our  present-day  annuals  when 
properly  grown. 

I  will  divide  my  paper  into  three  parts.  I  shall 
give,  first,  my  idea  of  the  proper  cultural  treat- 
ment of  annuals  generally  ;  secondly,  a  few  facts 
regarding  the  enormous  increase  in  the  number  of 
kinds,  and  especially  in  the  variety  of  colours 
and  improvements  in  habit  of  the  different  plants 
available  now  as  compared  with  years  ago  ;  and, 
thirdly,  a  short  sketch  of  how  by  careful  and 
constant  selection  these  results  have  been  brought 
about.     [We  select  the  first  part. — Ed.] 


Nature  or  chance  will  do  the  rest.  A  packet  of 
seed,  whether  it  contains  many  or  few,  must  be 
all  crammed  into  this  one  little  clump  or  patch 
instead  of  making  two  or  three  or  more. 
Consequently  the  plants  struggle  for  a  time  for 
bare  existence  in  tightly  packed  masses  of  fifty  or 
a  hundred,  where  there  should  have  been  but 
two,  three  or  four  plants  at  most.  Poor  wretched 
annuals  !  Disease  and  death  come  prematurely 
to  nearly  all,  probably  all,  though  perhaps  a  few 
continue  to  struggle  on  and  eventually  bloom. 
But  what  a  bloom  !  What  a  plant  !  bearing 
scarcely  any  resemblance  to  its  real  natural 
beauty — sans  form,  sans  habit,  sans  size,  sans 
everything  that  would  have  made  it  beautiful 
and  attractive. 

If,  however,  they  had  been  sown  by  anyone 
with  experience  or  even  common  sense  in  a  spare 
part  of  the  garden  thinly,  so  that  the  seedlings 
when  just  above  ground  had  been  half-an-inch  or 
2  inches  apart,  according  to  kind,  of  course,  and 
then,  as  they  grew  on,  if  at  all  crowded,  thinned 


SNOWDROPS   IN   TIIR   WOODS   AT  CA8TLK   MENZIKS. 


Annuals  are  really  quite  as  useful  in  large 
gardens  as  in  small  ones,  for  a  long  succession  of 
bloom  can  be  obtained  from  many  of  them.  Some 
are  more  suitable  for  large  beds  and  borders, 
others  for  small  beds  ;  some  for  carpet  bedding, 
others  for  out  bloom  ;  some  bloom  in  spring, 
some  in  summer  and  some  in  autumn  ;  many  are 
more  fit  for  greenhouses  and  growing  in  pots  : 
some  grow  S  feet  to  10  feet  in  height,  some  only 
6  inches  or  less  ;  some  are  hardy,  some  are  not. 

Annuals,  however,  are,  I  fear,  despised  by 
many  people,  partly  because  they  are  not  properly 
known,  and  more  often  because  they  are  most 
improperly  and  negligently  grown.  The  ordinary 
amateur  is  generallj',  or  at  any  rate  often,  a 
relentless  murderer  of  annuals.  He  buys  a  few 
or  many  packets  of  seed  as  the  case  may  be, 
sows  them  very  thickly  in  little  clumps,  puts  a 
cleft  stick  in  the  centre  of  each  clump  with  a 
little  papef  flag  in  the  cleft  bearing  the  name, 
and  thinks  that  is  all  that  is  necessary,  or  that 


outand,  when  large  enough  to  handle,  transplanted 
to  where  they  were  to  remain  and  flower,  they 
would  have  grown  into  good  plants  and  developed 
in  all  tlieir  beauty  of  habit,  form  and  size.  I  can 
think  of  no  annual  tliat  requires  less  than  ti  inches 
to  8  inolies  of  space  to  grow  and  develop  in, 
except  perhaps  the  little  Virginian  Stock  or 
Nemophila,  which  might  put  up  with,  say, 
4  inches,  but,  of  course,  large-growing  plants, 
such  as  Sunflowers,  Antirrhinums  and  tall  Lark- 
spurs, should  be  much  further  apart  even  than 
ti  inches  to  S  inches.  These  require  from  1  foot 
to  2  feet  or  even  .^  feet.  Some  few  annuals  do 
not  like  transplanting,  and  should  be  sown  where 
they  are  rec|uiredto  bloom,  of  course,  thinly ;  when 
up  they  should  be  thinned  out  early,  not  waiting 
till  they  begin  to  suffer  acutely  from  overcrowding. 
Such  are  Poppies  of  all  sorts,  Esohscholtzias  and 
all  those  with  long  tap-roots. 

I  have  spoken  so  far  respecting  annuals  which 
are  better  sown  out  in  the  open,  but  many,  a  great 


142 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  20,  1909. 


many,  are  better  sown  in  pots  or  flat  boxes  under 
oold  frames,  and  some  under  frames  in  a  little 
heat  in  January  or  February,  thinly,  always 
thinly :  then,  when  large  enough  to  handle, 
pricked  off  into  other  flat  toies  2  inches  to  4  inches 
apart,  and  grown  on  in  these  in  cold  frames  until 
April  or  Slay,  or  in  some  eases  .June,  then 
planted  out  of  doors  into  their  flowering  quarters. 
Among  plants  best  treated  in  this  way  are  Asters, 
Stocks,  Antirrhinums,  Ageratums,  Verbenas, 
Balsams,  Marguerite  Carnation — that  is,  the 
annual  one — Heliotrope.  Marigolds.  Dahlias.  &c. 

Then  annuals  have  to  be  known  and  under- 
stood just  as  other  plants,  and  grown  in  proper 
and  suitable  places  to  give  proper  effect.  It 
would  be  unwise  to  grow  the  tall  Larkspurs 
or  the  tall  Antirrhinums  or  the  tall  Clarkia 
elegans  in  small  beds,  and  useless  to  grow 
the  dwarf  Virginian  Stock  or  the  dwarf 
Tagetes  signata  pumila  for  tall  effects  at  the 
back  of  long  borfers.  I  would  suggest  that 
varieties  that  are  not  known  by  the  gardener 
sufficiently  as  to  their  habit  and  usefulness 
should  be  grown  in  the  vegetable  garden  or  some 
more  or  less  out-of-the-way  place  the  first  year — 
not  under  trees,  of  course — where  one  can  study 
them  and  their  habits  in  order  to  know  better 
another  year  how  properly  to  utilise  them. 
Plants  BO  grown  need  not  lie  wasted,  for  they  will 
provide  cut  flowers  for  the  house. 

I  will  now  erplain  what  I  understand  an 
"annual"  to  be.  The  best  definition,  I  think, 
is  a  plant  which,  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  spring, 
will  bloom  the  same  summer  and  will  ripen  its 
seeds  in  autumn.  These  may  be  called  true 
annuals.  There  are  many  plants  which  are 
really  perennials,  but  which  may  be  used  as 
annuals,  even  in  this  country  with  our  short 
summer.  Such  are  Pansies,  Violas,  Pentstemons, 
Verbenas,  Antirrhinums,  Dahlias,  &e.  These, 
when  sown  in  a  little  heat  in  early  spring,  will 
bloom  in  summer  and  autumn,  and  are  very 
suitable  and  usetul  for  keeping  up  the  summer  and 
autumn  displa.v.  Alfred  Watki.vs. 

FRLESIAS. 
1  E><1X)SE  for  your  acceptance  a  photograph  of  a 
small  three-light  brick  pit  full  of  Freesias.  The 
photograph  was  taken  on  Good  Friday  last  year, 
before  cutting  commenced.  These  plants  were 
grown  under  the  treatment  described  in  my  note 
which  you  published  some  time  ago.  At  the 
presenttime  the  same  pit  is  filled  in  the  same 
manner  ;  but  the  plants  are  stronger,  many  of 
the  central  heads  having  as  many  as  twelve  and 
some  thirteen  flowers  on  each.  T.  Cakteb. 

The  Garden".  BuUei'jh  Ccniri,  Glastonbury 


SNOWDROPS  FROM  SEEDS. 
All  admirers  of  the  Snowdrop — and  who  is 
not  among  the  number  '/—should  seek  to  increase 
their  stock  and  to  improve  the  size  of  the 
flowers,  and  these  may  be  reminded  that  by 
means  of  raising  seedlings  these  aims  may  be 
secured,  although  some  time  will  elapse  ere  the 
results  are  seen.  The  late  Mr.  .James  Allen  of 
Shepton  Mallet  raised  many  lovely  things  among 
the  Snowdrops,  and  this  was  mainly  done  by 
raisiog  seedlings  either  from  plants  artificially 
crossed  with  other  varieties,  or  grown  from  seeds 
of  forms  chosen  because  of  their  special  size  or 
beauty.  This  raising  ot  seedlings  is  quite  simple, 
and  may  be  engaged  in  by  manj*  with  but  little 
room.  As  soon  as  the  capsules  of  seeds  begin  to 
open,  they  should  be  laid  upon  a  sheet  of  paper 
to  allow  them  to  drop  their  seeds.  The  latter 
may  lie  on  the  sheet  of  paper  for  about  a 
week,  and  can  then  be  sown  in  boxes,  covering 
them  with  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  fine  soil, 
and  pressing  this  firmly  down  on  the  seeds. 
Then  the  boxes  can  be  left  on  the  shady  side  of  a 
wall  or  fence,  set  on  ashes  to  prevent  the  worms 
from  getting  into  the  boxes.  The  boxes  may  be 
left  out  in  the  open  all  the  winter,  and  probably 
some  of  the  seeds  will  germinate  the  first  spring 


if  the  seeds  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  There 
should,  however,  be  no  hurry  to  disturb  the 
seedlings,  as  some  of  the  seeds  will  not  germinate 
until  the  second,  and  a  few  not  until  the  third 
spring.  After  a  good  many  of  the  seedlings  have 
appeared,  a  little  fine  soil  should  be  put  over 
them  when  they  are  at  rest,  and  a  little  more 
each  year  afterwards  until  the  bulbs  are  large 
enough  to  remove.  This  can  be  done  when 
they  are  about  the  size  of  large  Peas,  and 
these  can  be  planted  where  they  are  intended 
to  bloom.  If  selection  is  desired,  keep  the 
seedlings  in  the  boxes  until  they  bloom,  when 
the  best  can  be  selected  when  in  flower,  and 
either  removed  then  or  carefully  marked  for 
removal  when  at  rest.  The  first  of  the  seedlings 
will  usually  bloom  the  fourth  yeir  from  sowing 
the  seeds.  The  late  Mr.  Allen  met  with  little 
success  when  he  sowed  his  seeds  in  the  open,  but 
I  have  raised  a  considerable  numbei  in  this  way. 
The  work  isexceedingly  interesting,  and  the  results 
are  often  quite  beyoud  expectation. 

THE     TRITOMAS     OR     KNIPHOFIAS 

IN    EARLY    SPRING. 
The  desire  for  tidiness  in  the  garden  is  more 
frequently  than  is  generally  supposed  the  cause 


climate  is  sufficient  protection  to  keep  the  early 
growths  from  being  frosted,  and  this  will  be 
easily  secured  by  learing  the  old  foliage  on  the 
plants  until  all  danger  from  these  late  frosts  is 
past.  The  most  approved  and  neatest  method  is 
that  of  tying  the  old  leaves  together  almost  in 
the  form  of  a  sheaf.  This  is  excellent :  but  I 
am  now  coming  to  the  conclusion  that  a  better, 
although  not  so  neat,  plan  is  to  leave  the  foliage 
a  little  looser,  so  as  to  let  more  light  and  air  in 
to  the  young  shoota  when  they  appear.  When 
the  old  leaves  are  too  closely  tied  up,  the  growths 
come  pale  and  weakly,  and  if  the  covering  is 
taken  off  too  early  they  still  suffer.  The  late 
frosts  of  last  April  and  May  were  ruinous  to 
some  plants  which  had  this  protection  removed 
too  soon  or  which  had  been  left  too  closely  covered 
until  j  ust  before  these  frosts.  All  this  ma}'  seem 
hardly  worth  thinking  about,  but  it  is  deserving  of 
thought  when  plants  are  commencing  to  grow. 
DumfrieJi.  S.  Arnott. 


RAISING  SWEET  PEAS  IN  TURVES. 
Like  the  writer,  most  Sweet  Pea  enthusiasts 
will  have  made  their  first  sowing  of  seeds,  but 
during  the  next  two  or  three  weeks  numbers 
more  will  be  sown  in  pots  or  the  open  ground 


WKLL    (iKOWN     FBEKSLILS    I>'    BUTUIIGH    COUKT    GAKDENS,    GLASTONBtTBY. 


of  losses  among  certain  plants,  jnd  many 
growers  in  districts  which  suffer  much  from  late 
frosts  would  act  wisely  were  they  to  sacrifice 
some  of  this  tidiness  on  the  altar  of  Flora  her- 
self. In  places  such  as  these  protection  for  early 
growth  is  urgently  required,  and  the  want  of 
this  is  responsible  for  many  troubles  and  losses 
among  subjects  which  are  hardy,  in  the  ordinary 
sense  of  the  word,  if  left  to  take  care  of  them- 
selves during  the  winter  and  early  spring.  But 
the  worship  of  tidiness  forbids,  and  the  natural 
protection  of  the  old  leaves  is  cleared  away  in 
autumn,  with  the  result  that  the  young  growths 
have  no  shelter  whatever,  and  are  cut  by  the 
late  frosts  of  spring,  if  not  by  those  of  an  earlier 
period.  Among  no  plants  is  this  more  evident 
than  the  Kniphofias  (still  more  generally  known 
in  gardens  by  the  more  agreeable  name  of 
Tritomas),  which,  from  their  Southern  origin, 
may  be  expected  to  be,  as  they  indeed  are,  a 
little  more  tender  than  some  other  subjects.  In 
many  places  they  are  banned  as  being  tender, 
but  with  a  slight  precaution  or  two  they  will 
stand  our  winters  quite  well. 

In  some  parts  of  the  Continent,  where  the 
winters  are  more  severe  than  with  us,  they  are 
planted  with  the  crowns  about  .3  inches  or 
4  inches  beneath  the  surface,  and  (his  is  not  a 
bad  precaution  to  take,  although  not  essential 
with  us  in  general.     What  is  required  in  our 


The  former  method  I  believe  to  be  the  wiser  in 
the  end,  because  it  more  quicklj'  shows  which 
seeds  are  going  to  tail,  and,  further,  the  young 
seedlings  are  more  easily  preserved  from  enemies, 
such  a?  slugs  and  mice,  than  when  exposed  in 
the  open  ground.  But  perhap?  some  other 
readers  of  The  Gardes  would  like  to  try  a  few 
seeds  sown  in  the  following  way  :  Get  some 
pieces    of   turf   (for   convenient   working   about 

1  foot  square  will  be  found  as  handy  as  any), 
turn  them  grass  side  downwards,  and  in  the  soil 
embed  the  seeds,  allowing  each  seed  a  square  of 

2  inches,  which  will  cause  the  above-sized  turf 
to  accommodate  thirty-six  seeds,  and  afterwards 
place  the  same  on  pieces  of  boards  in  the  frame 
or  house.  Directly  the  seedlings  are  well  up 
take  a  strong,  sharp  knife  and  cut  lengthways 
and  crossways  through  the  turves,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent the  various  rootlets  becoming  entangled 
with  each  other.  Where  this  is  not  done,  but 
the  plants  left  to  grow  together,  after-separation 
should  be  effected  by  pulling  apart  and  not 
cutting.  In  every  other  respect  treat  as  when 
sown  in  pots.  At  planting-out  time,  of  course, 
there  is  no  troubling  with  pots,  as  each  little 
square  is  ready  for  its  new  quarter.  This 
method  may  be  new  to  some  Sweet  Pea  growers, 
but  it  is  a  practice  carried  out  on  a  larger 
scale  by  some  gardeners  with  early  culinary 
Peas.  C.  TiRNER. 


March  20,  1909. 


THE     GAEDEX. 


143 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN 


MR.  E. 


M 


MAWLEY'S  ROSE  AXALYSIS, 

1901—1908. 
(Continued     from     page     C'^.J 
Teas  akb    Noisettes. 
R.  MAWLEY'S  comments  on  the  Tea 
Rose  analysis  are  short. 


The  table 
is  not  liable  to  the  ^^olent  fluctua- 
tions that  we  find  in  the  corre- 
sponding table  that  we  have  just 
considered,  namely,  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas.  I  therefore  give 
them  in  full. 

' '  White  Maman  Cochet  still  deservedly  heads 
the  list  of  Teas  and  Noisettes,  and  is  as  yet 
without  any  serious  rival  for  the  premier  position.  ^ 

This  year  it  was  not  only  much  more  frequently    threatened  just  yet 


staged  in  the  prize-winning  stands  than  any  other 
Rose  in  the  show,  but  also  more  frequently  than 
any  Rose  at  any  previous  exhibition  of  the 
society. 

"  The  only  two  varieties   which   have  never 


The  table  proves  that  in  calling  19<JS  "a  White 
Meunan  Cochet  year  "  I  was  not  far  wrong  after 
aU.  What  splendid  flowers  we  saw  of  it  right 
through  the  season  :  I  have  little  doubt  if  a 
record  was  kept  that  this  Rose  would  be  found  to 
easily  head  the  list  of  medal  winners  as  the  best 
Tea  Rose  in  the  show  and  frequently  the  best 
Rose.  Mr.  Mawley  points  out  that  it  secured 
two  records  at  the  "National" — (1)  the  most 
frequently  staged  exhibition  Rose,  (2)  more 
frequently  staged  than  any  other  Rose  at  any 
previous  exhibition  in  the  history  of  the  society 
— and  yet  I  will  undertake  to  say  that  it  is  not 
the  most  numerously  grown  Rose  ;  it  is,  I  have 
always  said,  the  most  reliable,  that  is,  tree  for 
tree.  You  are  likely  to  get  from  it  a  higher  per- 
centage of  exhibition  flowers  than  from  any  other 
variety  I  know.  It  has  headed  this  table  now  for 
the  last  three  years,  and  is  so  far  ahead  in  the 
averages  that  its  supremacy  can  hardly  be 
Mrs.  E.  Mawley  is  second. 


but  her  place  is  threatened  by  Mme.  -Jules 
Gravereaus,  a  Rose  that  is  like  White  Maman 
Cochet  in  this  respect,  that  is,  it  is  one  of  the 
easy  ones  to  grow  (as  exhibition  Teas  go).  In 
19<).5,    three   years  ago,   this  Rose  occupied   the 


before  appeared  in   as   many  prize  stands  were  bottom  position  in  the  table,  in  ltN>)  it  rose  to 

White  Maman    Cochet  and  Mme.  .Jules  Grave-  fourteenth  place,  in  lyOT  it  was  fourth,  ar.d  190S 

reaux.        On    the    other    hand,    Mrs.     Edward  finds  it  third.     I  think  1909  will  find  it  go  one 

Mawley.   The   Bride,  Catherine  Mermet,  Mme.  higher,  that  is,  if  it  is  a  normal  season,  and  there 

Hoste,  Souvenir  dun  Ami,  Golden  Gate,  Ernest  I  hope  and  think  it  will  have  to  stay. 

Metz  and  Hon.  Edith  Gifl'ord  have  never  before  Mr.     Mawley    has    called   this  "table   of    the 

been  as  poorly  represented.     The  only  varieties  Teas  and  Noisettes   the    "  Conservative '"  table. 


vhich  were  set  up  this  year  in  twenty  or  more 
prize  stands  wern  White  Maman  Cochet,  Mrs.  E. 
Slawley,  Mme.  .Jules  Gravereaux,  Maman  Cochet, 
Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting,  Comtesse  de 
Nadf.illao,  Muriel  Grahame  and  Innocente 
Pirola. 

"  There  are  again  only  three  Roses  in  the  table 
which  are  six  or  fewer  years  old,  and  which 
are  consequently,  according  to  the  standard  of 


because  the  changes  in  it  were  few  and  far  be- 
tween ;  but  we  find  that  old  sorts  drop  out  and 
new  ones  take  their  places.  It  is  not  verj"  many 
years  back  since  Catherine  Mermet,  The  Bride 
and  Bridesmaid  were  well  up  :  now  the  three 
just  find  their  way  into  the  first  dozen,  and  next 
year  are  hardly  Ukely  to  occupy  that  position. 
Mme.  Constant  Soupert  and  Mrs.  Myles 
Kennedy   are   bound   to   go  higher  :   and  then 


age  hitherto  adopted,  entitled  to  be  regarded  as   among  the  new  Roses  this  year  are  one  or  two 


among  the  '  newer  Roses. "  Souvenir  de  Pierre 
Notting  (pale  apricot  yellow),  a  1902  variety,  has 
since  last  year  risen  from  No.  7  to  No.  o.  There 
are  no  representatives  for  either  of  the  years 
1903  or  1904,  but  for  190.5  we  have  Mme. 
Constant  Soupert  (yellow,  shaded  peach),  which 
has  also  greatly  improved  its  position  since  the 
last  analysis,  having  risen  from  No.  31  to  No.  16. 
The  only  other  new  Tea  on  the  list  is  Mrs.  Myles 
Kennedy,  which  on  its  first  appearance  takes  up 
a  place  at  No.  •21." 


Teas  that  will  soon  be  asking  for  admission — 
Molly  Sharman  Crawford,  for  one,  A.  Hill 
Gray  and  Mrs.  Campbell  Hall,  to  mention 
others,  although  the  last  two  are  not  yet  in 
commerce.  W.  R.  Smith  (Mr.  Pemberton,  I 
believe,  thinks  very  highly  of  this  Rose)  is  a 
fourth.  Then  I  have  heard  George  Prince 
mentioned  ;  but  I  am  not  sure  that  this  is  not  a 
Hybrid  Tea,  although  with  such  a  name  it  surely 
ought  to  be  a  Tea  and  a  good  one  too.  Paula 
also  will  give  us  an  exhibition  flower  sometimes. 


TEAS    AND    NOISETTES. 


S-g   fe;^ 


I4^ 

PS 

1    .. 

ws 

o 

56-0 

S     ,, 

.^5-6 

4     .. 

51 -.1 

o     .. 

3S-0 

6     .. 

2S-4 

7 

26  (j 

S     .. 

26-4 

9     ,. 

24-S 

10     ,. 

23-9 

11     .. 

23-6 

12     ,. 

21S 

12     .. 

21-S 

U     .. 

21-5 

15     .. 

20-3 

•Hi 

19-0 

17     ., 

17-0 

IS     .. 

16-9 

19     .. 

14-0 

20     .. 

13 -S 

•21     .. 

13-0 

.>.» 

lis 

2S     .. 

lis 

24 

9-0 

23     .. 

s-s 

26     .. 

7-S 

27     ,. 

7-4 

2S     .. 

6-9 

29     .. 

6-5 

30     .. 

53 

SI     .. 

5-0 

^  5  -  a» 

&,  tt,= 

..  so  .. 

..41 

..  64  .. 

..  61  .. 

. .  31  . . 

..  32  ... 

. .  IS  . . 

. .  14  . . 
..23 

. .  IS  . . 

. .  19  . . 

. ,  14  . . 

..  26  .. 

6  .. 

. .  16  . . 

.   19  . . 


12 
13 
9 


2fauK. 


=1& 


Raider's 


IiUrodtuer's 


Coioirr. 


6 


'White  Mamau  Gx^et 1S97 

llrs.  Edward  Mawley 1S99 

Mme.  Jules  Graveivaiix     . .     . .  1901 

Mamau  Cot-het      1S93 

Souvenir  de  Pierre  Xotting     . .  1902 

Comtesse  de  Xadaillac      . .     . .  1S71 

Medea      1S91 

The  Bride       1SS5 

Muriel  Grahame 1S96 

Catherine  Mermet      1S69 

Mme.  Cusiu ISSl 

Bridesmaid     1S93 

Innocente  Pirola 1S7S 

Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince   . .     . .  1SS9 

Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon    . .  1S54 

Mme.  Constant  Soupert    . .     . .  1905 

Mme.  Hoste 1SS7 

Souvenir  d'nn  Ami      1S40 

ilarechal  Xiel  (S.>      ISW 

Cleopatra       1SS9 

Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy 1906 

Mme.  de  W-atterille ISSS 

Golden  Gate 1S92 

Eniest  Metz ISSS 

Marie  Van  Hontte      1S71 

Pl-incess  of  Wales 1SS2 

Caroline  Kuster  O'.) 1S72 

Anna  Oliver  1S72 

Ethel  BiMwnlow 1SS7 

Hon  lurable  Edith  Gifford       . .  1SS2 


Cook    . .  White,  tingeil  lemon 

A  Dickson  and  Sous  Pink,  tinted  oannine 

Soupert  et  dotting  Resh.  shade.1  peach 

Coc-het       Deep  rtesh.  suffused  light  rose 

Soupert  et  Notting  Apricot  yellow,  shaded  onuige 

Gnlllot      Peach,  shaded  apricv^t 

W.  Paul  and  Son    . ,  Lemon  yellow 

May ^^Tiite,  tinged  lemon 

A  Dickson  and  Sous  Pale  cream,  dushed  n>se 

Guillot      Light  rosy  flesh 

Guillot        Violet  rose 

May Bright  pink 

Mme.  Ducher  . .     . .  Creamy  white 

Prince       Pure  white 

Marest      Cream,  tinted  rose 

Soupert  et  Notting  Deep  yellow,  shaded  peach 

Guillot       Pale  lemon  yellow 

Belot-Defongere     . .  Pale  rose 

Pradel        Deep  hright  golden  yellow 

Bennett     Creamy  flesh"  shaded  rvise 

A.  Dickson  and  Sons  Silvery  white,  shaded  buff 

Guillot      Cream,  Ix'rdered  ros*. 

Dingee  and  Conard  Ci«amy  white,  tinted  n'se 

Guillot      Salmon,  tinted  rose 

Ducher      Lemon  yellow,  edged  rose 

Bennett    Rosy  yellow 

Pemet       Lemoii  vellow 

Ducher      Pale  iniff,  flushed 

A  Dickson  and  Sons  Rosy  flesh,  shaded  yellow 

Guillot      Whit*,  centre  flesh 

Bougfere    ....  White 


Niphetos 1S44 

New  viu'ieties,  whose  positions  are  depaudent  on  their  re<.-orda  for  the  1908  show  oul)-. 


and  so  will  Harry  Kirk,  so  that  190S  has 
introduced  us  to  a  great  many  more  new  Teas 
of  promise  than  we  tistiaUy  see  in  a  twelvemonth  ; 
in  fact,  one  Tea  per  anntun  is  about  the 
average,  rather  above  than  otherwise.  The  year 
1901  brotight  ns  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux ;  I9'>2, 
Sonv.  de  Pierre  Notting ;  1903  and  190t  were 
blanks  ;  1905.  Mme.  Constant  Soupert ;  1906, 
Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy ;  1907,  Harry  Kirk,  &e. , 
for  which  all  Rose  exhibitors  will  be  thankful, 
especially  as  the  new-comers  have  better  eotistitu- 
tions  and  are  altogether  better  growers  than  the 
majority  of  their  fellows,  with  whom,  I  am  afraid, 
moreover,  the  winter  will  have  played  havoc,  so 
that  there  wiU  be  room  this  spring  for  a  few 
of  the  new-comers,  if  only  to  fill  up  the  blanks. 
I  think  when  we  come  to  prune  we  shall  find 
more  damage  has  been  done  to  our  Teas  by 
the  frost  this  year  than  for  a  good  many  years 
past.  H.  E.  MoLTXEUX. 


PLAXTING   ROSES    FOE    CUTTING 

PURPOSES. 
Before  the  season  for  planting  is  past  (and  1 
might  here  say  that  Roses  may  be  planted  quite 
till  the  middle  of  April  i.  I  would  like  to  suggest 
that  a  reserve  garden  be  planted,  wherever  space 
permits,  to  supply  cut  blooms  in  large  quantities 
where  such  are  in  demand.  The  reason  I  suggest 
this  is  that  I  fe^r  there  are  numbers  of  ladies 
and  gentlemen  keenly  disappointed  at  the  poor 
success  of  their  plants,  owing,  in  many  cases,  to 
the  cruel  cutting  away  of  the  long  growths  in 
the  height  of  the  growing  season  to  supply  the 
demands  of  the  hotise  for  long-stemmed  Roses. 
I  have  been  told  by  many  gardeners  that  they 
have  been  obliged  to  renew  the  Rose  beds  very 
frequently  solely  owing  to  this  severe  cutting. 

Now,  while  I  advocate  a  free  use  of  the  knife 
at  the  proper  pruning-time,  in  order  to  maintain 
a  healthy  growth  from  the  base,  nothing,  in  mv 
opinion,  can  be  more  reprehensible  than  the 
wanton  slashing  away  of  the  gniwths  at  a  time 
of  year  when  the  plants  can  ill  ati'ord  to  lose  them. 
I  wonder  if  the  public  ever  realises  that  those 
glorious  displays  of  bunches  of  Roses  put  up  at  the 
Rose  shows,  together  with  a  hard  cutting  awav 
of  wood  for  budding,  mean  a  quantity  of 
debilitated  plants  in  the  autumn.  Instead  of 
encouraging  these  exhibits,  I  maintain  they 
should  be  discouraged  and  some  other  method 
adopted  of  displaying  the  beauties  of  the  decora- 
tive Roses.  Now  quite  a  number  of  plants  mav 
be  placed  in  the  kitchen  garden  in  odd  Unes  that 
may  be  cut  at  as  much  as  one  likes,  for  they 
could  easily  be  renewed  every  other  year,  and 
the  expense  would  be  trifling  compared  to  the 
pleasure  derivable  from  seeing  grand  beds  of 
Roses  in  their  full  vigour  and  beauty.  P. 

THREE    USEFUL    ROSES. 

Among  the  most  beautiful  Roses  we  have, 
one  must  include  Rosa  sinica  Anemone  and 
Macartney :  but  they  are  both,  unfortunately,  verv 
tender,  and  only  under  quite  exceptional  condi- 
tions can  we  see  them  at  their  best.  Fortunately, 
we  have  some  newer  varieties  that  are  quite 
hardy,  of  extra  strong  growth,  certain  to  bloom 
every  season,  and  that  atford  us  the  same  delicate 
colours.  R.  sinica  is  also  known  as  Uevigata, 
Camellia  du  Japon  and  the  Cherokee  Rose.  It 
is  a  very  large  white  flower,  while  another  named 
sinica  Anemone  is  silvery  pink,  shaded  with  rose. 
The  Macartney  Rose  has  a  second  name  in  Rosa 
bracteata  and  is  pure  white,  while  all  of  them  are 
single.  Now,  in  place  of  old  favourites  that  elude 
us  season  after  season  I  would  strongly  recom- 
mend Una,  Jersey  Beauty  and  Evangeline.  The 
first  gives  us  almost  a  white  flower  about  3  inches 
across  :  the  second,  a  very  pale  primrose  yellow  : 
and  the  last,  a  charming  silvery  white,  flushed 
with  the  same  satiny  rose  fovmd  in  sinica  Ane- 
mone. All  three  are  very  large,  exceptionally 
hardy,  of  strong  and  rampant  growth,  and  flower 
very  freely  upon  the  long  rods  of  last  season's 
wood.  A.  P. 


144 


THE    GARDEN. 


[March  20,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Where  Ivy  has 
become  overgrown  the  present  is  an 
excellent  time  for  cutting  it  back,  as 
new  growths  will  quickly  be  formed 
and  the  plants  remain  bare  for  a 
short  time  only.  Where  growing  on 
dwelling-houses  or  other  buildings  it  is  fre- 
quently advisable  to  cut  it  back   close   to  the 


■SV^^SP^fc 


I. — A    IIWAKK  ROSE   WHICH    HAS  BEEN    NECLECTED 
AS   REGARDS    PRCMNG. 

wall,  and  care  must  be  taken  to  remove  any 
shoots  that  have  pushed  under  the  slates  or  tiles 
and  also  beneath  piping  or  troughing,  otherwise 
much  damage  will  be  done.  If  an  annual  cutting 
back  is  not  resorted  to,  the  growths  afford  excellent 
leverage  for  the  wind,  by  which  agency  they 
frequently  become  detached  from  the  wall.  Car- 
nations which  have  been  wintered  in  cold  frames 
may  now  be  planted  out  in  beds  that;  have  been 
prepared  as  advised  in  a  previous  calendar.  Make 
the  soil  firm  around  the  roots  of  each,  and  delay 
planting  for  a  few  days  if  the  soil  is  very  wet  and 
cold.  Pansies  and  Violas,  too,  may  be  put  out 
in  their  permanent  quarters  forthwith,  but  they 
should  have  been  grown  quite  hardy  in  the  cold 
frames,  otherwise  if  cold  weather  prevails  they 
will  probably  suffer. 

^''egetab/e  Oarden. — This  is  now  a  very  busy 
depaiument,  as  during  fine  weather  seed-sowing 
will  be  in  full  swing.  Further  sowings  of  Peas 
may  be  made,  still  choosing  an  early  wrinkled 
variety.  Onions,  Carrots,  Lettuces  and  Radishes 
for  succession  may  all  be  sown  in  prepared  beds 
in  the  open  whenever  the  soil  and  weather 
permit.  Seeds  of  Cauliflowers  and  Brussels 
Sprouts  should  be  sown  thinly  in  shallow  boxes 
of  good  soil  and  these  placed  in  a  slightly  heated 
or  cold  frame  ;  the  last  named  especially  require 
a  long  season  of  growth  if  large  stalks  are  desired, 
and  early  sowing  is  therefore  essential.  Autumn- 
sown  Onions,  if  not  transplanted  last  October, 
should  be  put  out  now  in  rows  15  inches  apart 


and  the  plants  9  inches  asunder.  Where  space 
is  none  too  plentiful,  a  row  of  these  may  be  planted 
between  each  two  rows  of  newly  planted  Straw- 
berries, or  Lettuces  or  Radishes  may  be  sown  in 
similiar  positions. 

Fruit  Oarden. — Generally  speaking,  amateurs' 
Vines  will  now  be  starting  into  growth,  and  it  is 
essential  at  this  period  to  keep  the  atmosphere 
of  the  house  moist  and  maintain  a  temperature 
of  50"  to  55°.  Syringe  the  rods  morning  and 
afternoon  with  tepid  water,  and  also  damp  the 
paths,  floor,  walls  and  staging.  On  bright,  sunny 
days  it  will,  perhaps,  be  necessary  to  give  a  little 
air,  especially  where  other  plants  are  grown  in 
the  vinery  ;  but  cold  draughts  must  be  avoided 
and  the  ventilators  closed  early  in  the  afternoon. 
Black  Currants  are  now  usually  affected  by  the 
big- bud  mite,  whose  presence  in  the  buds  is  made 
known  by  the  latter  becoming  rounded  in  shape 
and  much  swollen.  All  such  should  be  picked 
off,  dropped  immediately  into  a  vessel  containing 
paraffin  and  eventually  burned.  Then  dust  the 
bushes  when  damp  at  fortnightly  intervals  till 
the  end  of  April  with  a  mixture  of  air-slaked  lime 
and  flowers  of  sulphur,  1  lb.  of  the  former  to  2  lb. 
of  the  latter.  The  old-fashioned  Black  Currants 
which  are  usually  grown  in  cottage  gardens, 
though  producing  only  small  fruit,  are  rarely 
attacked  bj'  this  insidious  pest,  and  those  be- 
ginners who  possess  such  should  be  careful  not 
to  introduce  to  their  gardens  more  up-to-date 
sorts  which  are  attacked  by  it. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Many  old  bedding 
plants,  such  as  Iresines,  Lobelias,  Verbenas  and 
Coleuses  which  have  been  retained  through  the 
winter  will  by  now  possess  excellent  young 
shoots  for  making  into  cuttings,  and  as  these 
become  ready  they  should  be  dealt  with.  Shoots 
from  2  inches  to  4  inches  long,  according  to  the 
kind  of  plant  being  dealt  with,  are  best,  and  these 
should  be  cut  off  level  just  beneath  a  joint,  the 
lower  leaves  removed,  and  then  dibbled  into 
well-drained  boxes  or  pans  of  rather  sandy,  finely 
sifted  soil,  which  has  been  made  firm.  From 
2  inches  to  4  inches  apart,  according  to  their  size, 
is  a  good  distance  to  plant  the  cuttings,  after 
which  they  should  be  watered  in  and  stood  in  a 
warm,  shaded  corner  of  the  greenhouse,  or  in  a 
hot-bed  frame  if  such  is  available.  Asters  and 
Stocks  may  well  be  sown  now  if  the  work  has  not 
already  been  done.  Fill  some  well-drained 
shallow  boxes  or  pans  with  sandy  finely  sifted 
soil,  in  which  some  flaky  leaf-soil  or  dry  manure 
has  been  incorporated,  and  scatter  the  seeds 
thinly,  covering  them  with  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  of  soil.  Water  carefully  and  cover  each 
with  a  pane  of  glass  or  brown  paper,  and  stand 
in  a  warm  frame  or  greenhouse.  As  soon  as  the 
seedlings  are  up  remove  the  glass  or  paper,  give 
all  the  light  and  air  possible  and  be  particularly 
careful  with  the  watering,  otherwise  serious 
losses  will  occur.  The  Victoria  and  Comet 
Asters  are  best,  and  for  a  good  Stock  I  should 
choose  Webb's  Admiration.  It  grows  18  inches 
or  rather  more  high,  branches  well  and  is  ex- 
cellent for  cutting  purposes  ;  unlike  the  old  Ten- 
week  Stock,  it  continues  to  flower  over  a  long 
period.  H. 


METHODS  OF  PRUNING  DWARF  ROSES. 

This  is  a  subject  of  which  the  beginner  usually 
knows  very  little,  and  because  of  want  of 
knowledge  the  bushes  suffer  very  much.  Roses 
differ  in  their  character,  each  type  requiring 
somewhat  different  treatment ;  but  it  is  possible, 
even  with  the  multiplicity  of  Roses,  to  adopt  a 
general  system  of  pruning  which  may  apply  to 


dwarf  Roses  as  a  whole.  There  is  a  tendency 
with  amateurs  to  fear  the  free  use  of  the  pruning 
knife,  and  because  of  this  timidity  on  their  part 
the  Roses  in  their  gardens  frequently  present  any- 
thing but  a  pleasing  appearance. 

It  is  important,  to  begin  with,  that  a  pruning 
knife  be  procured  from  a  firm  with  a  good  reputa- 
tion. The  edge  should  be  sharp,  so  that  the  outs 
may  be  made  perfectly  clean  and  that  the  work 
may  be  done  more  easily.  This  usually  answers 
better  than  steateurs  in  the  hands  of  the 
amateur.  A  pair  of  gloves  is  also  essential,  as  it 
is  impossible  to  handle  the  thorny  growths  with 
naked  hands. 

In  pruning  Roses  we  first  have  to  consider 
what  is  the  object  we  have  in  view.  If  it  is 
intended  to  grow  our  dwarf  Roses  for  beautifying 
the  garden  and  to  provide  a  free  display  of  small 
to  medium -sized  blooms,  the  pruning  will  neces- 
sarily be  less  severe  than  would  be  the  case  were 
the  same  plants  required  to  produce  large,  exhi- 
bition flowers.  Ai  most  beginners  aim  at  pro- 
ducing beautiful  effects  in  their  gardens,  we  will 
assume  that  decorative  effect  is  their  chief  ambi- 
tion. For  this  reason  we  have  depicted  in  Fig.  1 
a  dwarf  Rose  that  has  been  sadly  neglected.  A 
careful  inspection  of  the  picture  reveals  the  fact 
that  the  old  growths  have  only  been  partially 
cut  back,  and  that  there  are  many  other  growths 
of  little  value  to  the  plant.  Assuming  that  Roses 
of  a  decorative  character  are  desired,  it  would  be 
necessary  to  shorten  back  the  growths  to  some 
eight  or  nine  eyes,  or  what  are  known  as  dormant 
buds,  as   it   is   from   these   dormant    buds   that 


2. — THE  same  bush  AFTER  BEING  PRUNED  FOR 
DECORATIVE   EFFECT. 

growths  for  the  succeeding  season  are  to  be 
evolved.  We  are  quite  aware  that  many  Rose- 
growers  would  take  exception  to  retaining  so 
much  of  the  growths  as  depicted  in  the  illustra- 
tion ;  but  for  creating  a  free  display  of  dainty, 
decorative  Roses  this  method  of  pruning  will 
give  satisfactory  results. 

Fig.  2  illustrates  how  this  should  be  done.  A 
careful  comparison  between  Figs.  1  and  2  will 
clearly  indicate  where  the  cuts  — which  should  be 
made  in  an  upward  direction — should  be  made. 
Always  see  that  the  cut  is   made  so  that  the 


March  20,  1909. 


HIE     GAliJJEN. 


145 


5  inches  or  6  inches  of  their 
base,  removing  also  in  this  case 
as  before  the  soft  and  pithy  wood. 
Those  of  a  more  vigorous 
character  should  be  out  back 
to  within  8,  10  or  12  inches 
of  their  base,  and  the  results  will 
then  be  quite  satisfactory.  In 
the  case  of  Hybrid  Teas,  those 
of  weak  and  moderate  growth  are 
better  when  the  previous  year's 
growths  are  cut  back  to  from 
"2  inches  to  4  inches  of  their  base  ; 
those  of  medium  growth  to,  say, 
5  inches  or  6  inches ;  and  the 
more  vigorous-growing  plants,  of 
which  there  are  a  goodly  number, 
cut  back  to  within  about 
8  inches  or  10  inches  of  their 
base.  D.  B.  C. 


-THE  SAME  PLANT  PRUNED  FOR  PROVIDING  EXHIBITION 
BLOOMS.  NOTK  THAT  THIS  OKOWTHS  HAVE  BEEN  CUT 
BACK  CLOSER. 


CALCEOLARIAS   FOR  BED- 
DING-OUT. 
Yellow  -  flowered    Calceolarias 
are  very  extensively   grown    for 


dormant  bud  is  left  on  the  outside  of  the  growths. 
This  is  important,  in  view  of  the  shapely  plant  we 
desire  to  bring  into  effect  and  in  order  that  light 
and  air  may  get  well  into  the  centre  of  the 
plant.  Not  only  should  the  more  promising 
growths  be  cut  back  as  illustrated,  but  the  old, 
sappy  and  twiggy  growths  should  be  cut  out, 
cutting  them  low  down,  as  also  shown  in  the 
illustration.  It  is  astonishing  what  a  lot  of  old, 
useless  growths  may  be  cut  out  in  this  way  ;  in 
fact,  it  is  possible  to  quite  alter  the  character  of 
the  dwarf  Rose  when  this  method  of  pruning  is 
adopted. 

On  the  other  hand,  should  the  grower  desire 
to  produce  blooms  of  good  quality,  a  more 
drastic  system  of  pruning  must  necessarily  be 
adopted.  For  this  reason  we  have  depicted  in 
Fig.  3  the  same  plant  as  represented  in  Figs.  1 
and  2,  but  more  severely  pruned.  Here,  it  will  be 
observed,  there  are  about  two  or  three  eyes  or 
dormant  buds  left  on  each  portion  of  the  growth 
retained,  in  consequence  of  which  the  growths 
that  subsequently  evolve  will  break  away  very 
strongly  indeed  and  produce  growths  capable  of 
evolving  flowers  of  high  quality. 

We  have  illustrated  in  Fig.  4  the  treatment 
necessary  to  be  meted  out  to  a  young  dwarf 
Rose.  Here,  it  will  be  observed,  the  plant  is 
represented  by  three  growths,  two  of  which  were 
evolved  last  season,  the  third  one  in  the  centre 
being  the  original  growth.  In  order  that  the 
foundation  of  a  good  plant  may  be  laid,  it  is 
necessary  to  cut  out  the  old  shoot  right  down 
to  its  base,  as  shown,  and  to  shorten  back  the 
others  to  three  or  more  eyes,  according  to  the 
object  that  the  grower  may  have  in  view.  It 
may  seem  to  be  a  drastic  thing  to  do  to  out  back 
the  branches  in  the  way  we  have  shown  in  the 
illustration,  but  this  is  the  only  really  satisfac- 
tory way  of  ensuring  the  development  of  stout, 
healthy  growths,  from  which  good  flowers  can 
be  obtained.  The  second  item  in  Fig.  4  reveals 
the  plant  after  the  manipulation  of  growths  in 
the  manner  we  have  just  indicated. 

If  we  wanted  to  be  more  specific  respecting 
the  methods  of  pruning,  we  should  deal  with 
each  type  of  the  Rose  by  itself ;  for  instance, 
there  are  some  of  moderate  growth,  those 
that  make  growth  of  medium  character,  and 
those,  again,  that  may  be  classified  as  vigorous. 
Were  we  to  deal  with  these  fully,  we  would 
recommend,  especially  in  the  case  of  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  that  those  of  moderate  growth  should 
be  pruned  back  to  2  inches  or  3  inches  of  their 
base,  removing  at  the  time  all  soft  and  pithy 
shoots.  In  the  case  of  those  of  medium  growth, 
the  strongest  shoots  should  be  cut  back  to  within 


the  embellishment  of  the  flower 
garden ;  the  dark  brown  variety  is 
not  in  evidence  now  ,.83  much  as 
formerly,  but  it  is  a  beautiful 
flower  and  deserves  to  be  widely  grown.  The 
latter,  however,  is  more  tender  than  the  former. 
The  bedding-out  Calceolaria  is  an  amateur's 
plant ;  it  is  easily  kept  during  the  winter  time 
in  cold  frames,  which  can  be  covered  with  straw 
or  mats  while  severe  frosts  prevail.  Very  often 
the  greatest  difficulty  with  these  plants  is  experi- 
enced during  the  early  summer  months,  when 
they  die  suddenly,  and  no  amount  of  care  at  that 
time  will  save  the  affected  plants.  I  have  had 
considerable  experience  in  the  growing  of  the 
plants  for  the  filling  of  the  beds  in  summer,  and 
at  one  time  lost  a  number  of  plants  soon  after 
they  were  put  out.  Then  I  tried  an  experiment, 
which  gave  me  the  clue  to  their  right  treatment. 
I  will  here  briefly  state  how  I  treated  the  plants. 
The  cuttings  were  inserted  in  a  firm,  sandy  soil 
in  September.  Every  cutting  was  as  strong  as 
possible  and  taken  from  the  base  of  the  parent 
plant.  Frost  only  was  excluded  from  the 
cuttings ;  at  other  times  the  lights  were  entirely 
removed  if  the  weather  was  mild,  the  object 
being  to  keep  the  young  plants  very  sturdy. 
Towards  the  middle  of  March  they  were  trans- 
planted in  a  duly  prepared  bed  with  rotted 
manure  in  the  bottom,  and  only  protected  with 
a  rough  frame  and  mats  on  the  top  of  it  when 
the  weather  was  unfavourable.  Directly  the 
plants  had  become  well  established  in  their  new 
quarters,  the  tops  were  pinched  out  and  side 
shoots  quickly  grew,  forming  very  strong,  bushy 
specimens  by  the  end  of  April,  when  they  were 
planted  in  the  beds  in  the  flower  garden.  Care 
was  always  taken  to  put  in  the  plants  the  same 
depth  each  time,  the  stems  not  being  buried  at 
all.  The  result  of  this  treatment  was  a  grand 
display  of  flowers  on  large,  healthy  specimens.  It 
is  a  mistake  to  unduly  coddle  these  plants  and  put 
them  out,  finally,  very  late  in  the  season,  say,  the 
end  of  May  or  early  in  June. 


PEACH     AND 


NECTARINE 
SPRING. 


TREES    IN 


'When  grown  under  glass  these  trees  are  entirely 
dependent  upon  the  attention  of  the  cultivator, 
and  any  neglect  on  his  part  may  prove  very 
harmful.  Ventilation  and  watering  are  the  two 
items  which  must  be  regularly  attended  to  in 
the  case  of  trees  growing  in  glass  structures. 
Those  growing  in  the  open  air  receive  rains  and 
the  shoots  do  not  sufi'er  through  lack  of  air, 
though  very  often  from  cold  east  winds. 
The  cultivator  certainly  has  a  much  better 
opportunity  of  growing  fine  specimens  of  fruits 
on  indoor  trees  than  on  those  in  the  open  air,  and 
this  opportunity  must  be  taken  full  advantage  of. 


I  will  give  a  few  brief  hints  on  the  chief  points 
connected  with  the  management  of  these  trees 
under  glass  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

Ventilation. — Now  it  is  much  safer  to  grow 
the  new  shoots  and  fruits  steadily  than  to 
unduly  force  them.  Hard  forcing  must  only  be 
resorted  to  in  exceptional  cases.  When  the 
buds  commence  to  swell  and  the  flowers  to  open, 
maintain  a  nice  current  of  air  through  the  house. 
Some  draught  will  be  created — it  cannot  well  be 
avoided — but  by  admitting  air  judiciously  harm- 
ful draughts  will  not  occur.  Open  the  ventila- 
tors at  the  top  of  the  house  first  and  gradually 
increase  the  amount  until  the  middle  of  the  day, 
when  it  should  be  as  gradually  reduced.  The 
front  ventilators  must  only  be  opened  on  mild 
days  when  the  sun  shines  brightly.  In  this  way 
the  young  leaves  will  be  kept  robust  and  the 
fruits  will  set  freely. 

Watering. — I  will  draw  attention  to  the  man- 
ner in  which  a  pot  plant  is  watered.  The  soil  in 
the  pot  is  thoroughly  saturated  before  it  becomes 
very  dry.  A  careful  watch  is  kept  upon  the  soil 
in  the  flower-pots.  Now,  this  is  just  what  is  re- 
quired on  the  part  of  the  cultivator  when  dealing 
with  these  fruit  borders.  When  the  soil  is 
getting  a  trifle  dry,  apply  tepid  water  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  thoroughly  saturate  the  border  soil 
down  to  the  drainage,  and  then  repeat  the  dose 
when  necessarj'.  It  is  a  mistake  to  saturate  the 
surface  by  constantly  damping  down  from  a  fine- 
rosed  watering-can  and  at  the  same  time  allow 
the  soil  in  the  lower  part  of  the  border  to  become 
almost  dust-dry. 

Syrinyiny.  —  There  is  no  need  for  much 
syringing  before  the  leaves  are  well  developed. 
At  first  the  syringing  must  be  done  with  a  view 
to  the  softening  of  the  buds  and  to  keep  the 
young  leaves  free  from  aphis.  By  sunset  all 
leaves  and  shoots  must  be  quite  dry. 

.Beating. — Both  Peaches  and  Nectarines  do 
well  in  unheated  houses,  but  where  tire-heat 
can  be  used  it  is  very  beneficial.  The  pipes 
must  be  warmed  as  the  evening  draws  near, 
and  be  kept  warm  all  day  in  dull,  cold 
weather.  As  stated  above,  ventilators  must  be 
closed  early  in  the  afternoon  as  by  so  doing  sun 
heat  will  be  conserved  to  the  advantage  of  the 
trees.  Shamrock. 


-ON  THE  LEFT  IS  SHOWN  A  TOUNO  DWARF 
ROSE  BUSH  PRE^^0US  TO  PRUNING,  AND 
ON  THE  RIGHT  THE  SAME  BUSH  IS 
SHOWN   AFTER  PRUNING. 


146 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  20,  1909. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


Plant  Anemones  and  Ranunculuses. — The 
tuberous  roots  of  these  plants  may  be  put  into 
the  borders  any  time  from  the  autumn  to  April. 
Where  very  dry,  sandy  soil  obtains,  the  roots  may 
be  planted  in  the  autumn,  but  in  the  case  of 
heavier  loam,  that  which  inclines  to  clay,  spring 
planting  is  the  best.  The  St.  Brigid  Anemone 
is  a  most  charming  variety  ;  the  large,  semi- 
double  flowers  are  freely  produced,  nestling 
among  beautiful  Fern-like  foliage,  and  the 
colours  are  greatly  varied,  some  flowers  being  in- 
tense scarlet,  others  purple  and  pure  white,  and 
delicate  shades  of  other  colours.  The  French 
Ranunculuses  (asiaticus  superbissimus)  are  free- 
flowering,  give  many  colours  and  are  very  fine 
indeed.  The  double  Persian,  and  the  double 
Turban  in  scarlet,  white  and  yellow,  are  all 
worth  growing  and  deserve  very  good  treatment. 
Of  course,  the  cultivator  may  have  his  plants 
in  rows  or  clumps.  Having  determined  the 
positions  for  the  plants,  put  in  the  roots  as 
follows  :  If  in  rows,  make  these  15  inches  apart 
in  the  lightest  soil  of  the  garden,  and  put  in  the 
roots  with  the  claws  downwards  (in  the  ease  of 
the  Anemones  especially)  6  inches  apart,  and 
bury  them  2  inches  deep.  If  the  roots  are  to  be 
grown  in  dumps,  place  from  five  to  a  dozen 
9  inches  apart  each  way  in  the  clump,  and  cover 
them  the  same  depth  as  those  in  the  rows.  Label 
the  clumps  and  rows  at  once  to  prevent  injury  to 
the  roots  before  their  growth  appears. 

Prepare  Tubs  and  Window  -  boxes.  —  In 
many  town  gardens  tubs  filled  with  flowering 
plants,  and  boxes  placed  in  the  windows,  also 
containing  flowering  and  foliage  plants,  form 
very  eharraing  features.  The  time  will  soon 
come  when  it  will  be  necessary  to  think  about 
the  actual  planting  of  the  various  subjects  in 
them,  and  it  must  find  the  gardener  ready.  Fix 
upon  the  sites  for  the  tubs  now,  and  also  procure 
the  latter  and  get  them  painted  dark  green  or 
brown  on  the  outside,  but  slightly  char  the 
insides.  The  best  way  to  char  the  wood  is  to 
take  the  tubs  to  an  open  space,  put  in  some 
paper  or  shavings,'  and  then  set  fire  to  the 
material  ;  allow  the  wood  to  burn  until  the 
surface  is  nicely  charred,  and  then  either 
throw  a  piece  of  old  sacking  over  the  tub  or, 
with  a  long  stick,  turn  the  tub  over  and  smother 
the  fire.  Several  holes  should  be  made  in  the 
bottom  of  each  tub  and,  in  addition,  clinkers, 
cinders,  or  broken  bricks  must  be  put  in  to  form 
efficient  drainage ;  superfluous  water  must  not  be 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  compost,  or  it  will  render 
it  sour.  Then  there  is  another  important  point, 
namely,  the  protection  of  the  tubs  from  decay, 
and   to  this  end    three  tiles  or  bricks  must  be 

f laced  in  position  for  the  tubs  to  rest  upon, 
t  would  be  a  wise  plan  to  at  once  prepare  the 
tubs  and  mix  the  compost,  so  that  the  work  of 
planting  may  be  quickly  done  when  the  time 
comes.  Keep  the  compost  in  a  cool  position 
and  protect  from  the  rain. 

Sweet  Peas. — It  is  not  too  late  to  sow  seeds 
of  Sweet  Peas  ;  in  fact,  where  the  soil  is  of  a  cold, 
clayey  nature,  there  is  some  advantage  in  sowing 
seeids  now,  if  plants  raised  in  pots  are  not  available. 
The  resultant  plants  from  present  sowings  root 
more  freely  and  become  established  sooner  than 
those  from  January  and  February  sowings  in 
similar  circumstances.  Dig  the  ground  deeply, 
at  least  -20  inches,  break  up  the  soil  thoroughly, 
and  mi.\;  some  well-decayed  manure  with  the  soil. 
Very  fine  Sweet  Peas  may  be  grown  by  using 
superphosphate  and  chemicals  solely ;  but  finer 
ones  result  when  the  plants  are  well  started  with 
rotted  manure,  which  induces  strong  haulm  and 
leaves.  There  are  many  walls — division  walls — 
and  similar  low  fences  in  town  gardens,  and  Sweet 
Peas  do  very  well  indeed  when  grown  on  the  north 
side  of  such  fences.  Sow  the  seeds  4  inches  apart 
in  zig-zag  rows,  and  cover  them  about  .'?  inches 
deep  with  the  finer  portion  of  the  soil.    Avon. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

ROgES. — Owing  to  the  frost  and  general 
I  severity  of  the  past  winter,  Roses, 
especially  some  of  the  more  tender 
varieties  which  may  not  have  been 
^  well  protected,  will  have  been  more 
or  less  injured.  Before  commencing 
to  prune,  a  thorough  examination  should  be  made 
to  ascertain  the  damage  done.  The  breaking  of 
the  buds  will  show  where  the  living  parts  are, 
and  the  shoots  should  be  pruned  accordingly. 
Tender  Teas  which  were  planted  rather  deep  last 
autumn  or  protected  with  leaf-mould  about  the 
collar  to  preserve  the  lower  buds  should  be 
relieved  of  this  protection  when  the  danger  of 
frost  is  past,  removing  the  material  gradually  as 
the  days  lengthen.  In  pruning  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals  choice  should  be  made  of  the  strong 
growths,  cutting  back  these  to  five  or  six  buds 
and  the  weak  inner  growths  to  three  buds.  Of 
course,  all  pruning  should  be  regulated  according 
to  the  size  of  the  bushes  required.  The  beds, 
as  soon  as  the  pruning  is  finished,  should  be 
lightly  forked  over,  top-dressed  if  necessary,  or 
mulched  over  with  good  farmyard  manure. 

Cleinatises. — These  may  be  planted  when  the 
soil  is  in  a  suitable  state.  Let  the  roots  be  dis- 
entangled if  the  plants  have  been  growing  in  pots, 
spread  them  out  evenly  and  cover  them  with 
good  soil.  When  preparing  the  station  see  that 
the  drainage  is  good  and  the  soil  suitable. 

Fruit  Garden. 

Raspberries. — There  is  still  time  to  make  fresh 
plantations.  The  land  should  be  well  worked 
and  enriched  with  good  manure  and  wood- 
ashes,  the  quantity  being  regulated  according  to 
the  nature  and  condition  of  the  soil.  Cut  down 
all  newly  planted  canes  to  within  a  few  inches 
of  the  ground.  Mulch  well  over  and  about  the 
roots  with  decayed  manure,  and  if  the  weather 
in  April  proves  dry  a  good  watering  may  be 
essential  :  this  applies  to  all  late  spring-planted 
fruit  and  other  trees. 

Outdoor  Figs. — These  may  now  be  pruned  and 
put  into  order,  the  shoots  likely  to  produce  the 
most  fruit  being  ascertainable.  Fig  trees 
require  ample  extension  to  bring  them  into 
bearing.  When  the  head  room  is  rather 
limited  and  the  wood  produced  is  too  strong  to 
be  fruitful,  root-pruning  must  be  resorted  to. 
Figs  do  best  when  planted  in  a  very  firm  soil, 
with  plenty  of  old  briok-mortar  and  chalk  added. 
When  pruning  be  careful  not  to  shorten  back 
the  sturdy,  fruitful  shoots,  which  should  be 
secured  at  intervals  all  over  the  trees.  For  outside 
cropping  Brown  Turkey  is  probably  the  best  and 
most  reliable. 

Alpine  Strawberries. — These  may,  if  desired,  De 
raised  from  seed,  which  should  be  procured  from 
a  reliable  firm  and  sown  in  pans  well  drained  and 
filled  rather  firmly  with  a  sandy  soil.  Do  not 
sow  the  seed  too  deeply,  and  stand  the  pans  in 
gentle  warmth.  Place  a  sheet  of  glass  over 
them  and  cover  all  with  a  piece  of  brown  paper 
till  the  tiny  seedlings  appear. 

Vegetable  Garden. 

Asparayis. — As  soon  as  the  land  is  in  a  fit 
state  the  work  of  making  fresh  beds  should  not 
be  delayed.  Set  out  the  beds  and  trench  them, 
using  plenty  of  manure,  wood-ashes  and  a  little 
salt.  The  width  of  each  may  be  from  .3  feet  to 
5  feet,  with  an  alley  18  inches  to  2  feet  between 
each  two.  The  best  time  to  plant  is  as  soon  as 
the  new  growth  is  about  1  inch  long,  this  being 
generally  early  in  April. 

Seakale. — This  for  a  late  supply  is  best  when 
covered  rather  deeply  with  leaf- mould  or  earthed 
up    like   Celery  ;    the   former   plan   we    usually 


adopt  with  good  results.  New  beds  to  take  the 
place  of  old  roots  may  be  deeply  trenched  ready 
for  planting  when  the  weather  is  suitable. 
Pieces  taken  from  the  roots  lifted  for  forcing, 
made  into  lengths  of  about  6  inches  and 
planted  with  the  top  end  2  inches  below  the 
surface,  make  fine  crowns  by  the  end  of  the 
season.  In  most  gardens  a  fresh  stock  is 
obtained  from  a  difierent  locality. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardeiis,  Bamet. 


FOR   THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Orchids. 
CvPRiFEDiiM  INSIGNE. — The  plants  of  this  old 
favourite  having  flowered,  any  division  of  the 
older  stock  or  potting  on  of  others  that  are 
likely  to  require  it  before  another  season  should 
be  carried  out  whenever  renewed  growth  appears. 
A  mixture  of  fibrous  loam  and  peat  in  about 
equal  parts,  from  which  all  the  finer  particles 
have  been  removed,  may  form  the  staple,  to 
which  may  be  added  some  chopped  sphagnum 
and  a  few  pieces  of  clean  crocks  and  charcoal. 
As  long-established  plants  eventually  become 
very  much  pot-bound,  division  can  be  accom- 
plished only  by  using  a  sharp  cutting  instrument. 
This  done,  each  severed  portion  should  have  the 
damaged  roots  pulled  away  and  be  deftly  placed 
in  clean,  well-drained  pots  or  pans  and  have  the 
compost  placed  firmly  around.  A  warm,  moist 
house  or  pit  wherein  to  place  plants  thus  treated 
until  growth  is  again  established  is  very  helpful 
to  the  rooting  process. 

Oattleyas  making  new  roots  may  have  the 
present  surface-dressing  removed  and  any  inert 
material  immediately  beneath  picked  from 
between  the  roots  with  a  pointed  stick,  after . 
which  well-selected  sphagnum  and  nodules  of 
peat  make  the  best  replenishment.  Cattleyas, 
Lfelias,  Dendrobiums  and  the  newer  forms  of 
Cypripedium  require  a  temperature  of  from  55° 
to  60°  at  night,  with  a  substantial  rise  by  day. 
As  the  sun  gains  in  power  more  moisture  may  be 
used,  damping  the  pots  and  stages  in  preference 
to  frequent  supplies  at  the  roots.  Plants  in 
flower  may  with  advantage  have  the  coolest  end 
of  the  house,  taking  care  that  neither  drip  nor 
moisture  in  any  other  form  obtains  a  lodgment 
upon  the  open  or  opening  blooms. 

Forcing  Department. 

Strawberries. — As  the  fruit  upon  the  earliest 
plants  changes  colour,  manurial  stimulants  are 
best  reduced,  or,  if  quality  rather  than  size  is 
the  object,  entirely  withheld.  Successional 
batches  will  require  much  attention  as  regards 
watering.  Weak  applications  of  manure  twice 
a  week  are  ample,  and  it  pans  are  used  beneath 
the  plants  these  should  be  emptied  occasionally. 
In  thinning  the  fruits  twelve  may  from  now 
onwards  be  left  upon  each  plant.  Long-stemmed 
varieties,  of  which  Royal  Sovereign  is  a  type, 
require  support  for  the  fruit-trusses,  and  a 
forked  stick  inserted  in  the  soil  at  a  convenient 
angle  will  accomplish  this. 

Cucumbers  and  Melons  recently  planted  should 
be  tied  to  the  trellis  as  the  shoots  advance  and 
overcrowding  of  the  foliage  be  carefully  guarded 
against.  In  watering  the  latter,  a  space  around 
the  stem  of  each  plant  should  be  kept  dry  and 
chilled  water  be  used  at  all  times. 

Dwarf  Beans. — The  earliest  sown  may  now 
have  soil  added  to  nearly  fill  the  pots  and,  if 
thought  necessary,  some  form  of  support  afibrded 
the  tops.  Being  very  subject  to  red  spider,  the 
use  of  the  syringe  and  tepid  water  should  not  be 
neglected,  to  aid  which  the  positions  of  the 
plants  should  frequently  be  reversed.  Sow  for 
succession  according  to  demand  and  space  at 
disposal. 

Flower  Garden. 

Roses.  — Planting  unfinished  may  yet  be  done. 
With  budded  plants  the  point  of  union  should,  if 


March  20,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


147 


possible,  be  covered  with  the  soil  to  facilitate  the 
emission  of  roots  from  the  scion.  Pruning  may  be 
commenced  with  the  Polyantha  section,  which 
requires  free  thinning  out  of  the  weaker  growths 
rather  than  hard  cutting  in  of  any  that  are 
stronger.  Hybrid  Perpetual  and  Tea  varieties 
may  be  left  until  last,  but  all  should  be  com- 
pleted early  in  April. 

The  Frame  Ground. 

Plants  of  Calceolarias,  Antirrhinums,  Pent- 
stemons  and  Violas  occupying  frames  where 
wintered  as  cuttings  should  be  transplanted  to 
a  position  where  temporary  protection  can  be 
aflForded.  The  time  and  labour  thus  expended  are 
amply  repaid  at  the  final  planting  out,  when  well- 
rooted  bushy  plants  contrast  very  favourably 
with  others  not  so  transplanted.  Violets  in 
frames  are  now  safe  from  damp,  consequently 
covering  to  cast  oiiF  rain  is  of  less  importance. 
Remove  decaying  foliage  and  stir  the  surface 
soil  weekly  to  promote  health. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

OaMoway  Houne.  Garlieston,  Wigtoumskire. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE, 


Sweet  Violets  from  Shrewsbury. 
Mr.  J.  Lawless,  head-gardener  to  Sir  Walter 
Smythe,  Bart.,  Acton  Burnell,  Shrewsbury, 
sends  us  flowers  of  double  and  single  Violets, 
which  are  very  fine  indeed,  particularly  those 
of  Princess  of  Wales  and  Swanley  White. 
He  writes;  "I  send  you  a  few  Violets  for 
your  table.  The  varieties  are  Princess  of 
Wales,  Mrs.  J.  .J.  Astor,  Swanley  White, 
Lady  Hume  Campbell  and  Marie  Louise.  The 
present  season  has  proved  so  far  rather  a  trying 
one,  due  to  lack  of  sunshine,  and  my  experience 
of  the  mentioned  varieties  proves  they  are  the 
most  reliable." 

Carmine  Cup  Fungus  from  Worcester. 

Mrs.  Mack  of  Kyre-Wyard  Rectory,  Tenbury, 
Worcester,  writes  as  follows :  "I  am  sending  some 
cup  moss,  as  I  think  the  size  may  be  rather 
unusual.  Quantities  of  it  grow  on  a  damp 
mossy  bank  in  a  wood  at  Kyre,  varying  in  size 
from  tiny  cups  to  quite  large  ones,  some  opening 
nearly  flat,  and  these  are  often  uneven  in  shape  ; 
the  small  cups  are  quite  perfect. " 

[This  is  the  beautiful  carmine  cup  fungus,  known 
scientifically  as  Geopyxis  coocinea,  and  forming 
one  of  the  conspicuous  objects  of  the  country  in 
the  early  spring.  The  cups  are  the  fruit  of  a 
fungus  which  grows  for  a  time  within  the  tissues 
of  fallen  sticks,  and  bears  its  numberless  spores 
in  the  cells  which  make  up  the  cup-shaped  fruit. 
The  spores  may  often  be  seen  to  issue  like  a  little 
cloud  from  the  surface  of  the  cup  if  the  latter  be 
breathed  upon.  The  whole  thing  makes  a  very 
beautiful  and  decorative  object,  bedded  as  it  is 
among  the  bright  green  moss. — Ed.] 

A    NEW    AND    VALUABLE 

SPRAYING    SYRINGE. 

Wb  have  recently  been  experimenting  with  a 
new  spraying  syringe,  manufactured  by  the 
Boundary  Chemical  Company,  Limited,  27  to  31, 


Cranmer  Street,  Liverpool,  and  called  the 
"  Demon  "  Continuous  Spray  Syringe.  For  this 
valuable  garden  tool  we  have  nothing  but  the 
highest  praise,  as,  after  testing  it  very  severely, 
we  have  found  it  satisfactory  in  every  respsct.  A 
piece  of  hose-pipe  some  4  feet  long  is  attached  to 
■a,  vilve  in  the  side  of  the  syringe,  the  other  open 


end,  which  is  protected  by  a  fine  wire  strainer, 
being  placed  in  the  bucket  or  other  receptacle 
containing  the  insecticide.  Then  by  steadily  work- 
ing the  plunger  a  continuous,  fine,  yet  forcible 
spray  is  produced,  much  the  same  as  is  obtained 
from  the  valuable  knapsack  sprayers  now  so  well 
known.  The  spraying  nozzle  is  fitted  with  a  bend, 
so  that  the  under-sides  of  the  leaves  can  easily 
be  reached.  We  think  this  syringe  will  supply  a 
long-felt  want  in  those  gardens  where  an  efficient 
yet  inexpensive  spraying  apparatus  is  needed.  In 
addition  to  its  spraying  powers,  this  syringe  may 
also  be  used  for  ordinary  syringing  by  simply 
removing  the  spraying  nozzle,  a  continuous  jet  of 
water  being  thrown  a  distance  of  at  least  12  feet. 

NEW     PLANTS. 

Sophbo-Cattleya  Thwaitesii.  —  This  is  an 
exceedingly  pretty  and  well-shaped  member  of 
a  bigenerie  family.  The  sepals  are  rather 
narrow,  the  petals  being  very  much  broader,  the 
colour  of  each  being  a  beautiful  cerise ;  the  sepals 
are  slightly  tinged  with  cream.  The  labellum  is 
the  most  conspicuous,  this  being  rich  bright 
yellow  in  the  throat,  edged  with  cerise,  this 
colour  deepening  to  almost  crimson  at  the  lower 
portion  of  the  lip.  Shown  by  R.  G.  Thwaites, 
Esq.,  Streatham.     First-class  certificate. 

Brasso-Caltl'iiia  Ooohsonii.  —  A  beautiful 
flower,  which  has  much  of  the  character  of  Cattleya 
aurea  in  it.  The  lanceolate  petals  are  reflexed 
at  the  edges,  these,  the  petals  and  labellum 
all  being  of  a  sort  of  terra-cotta  colour,  a  golden 
yellow  line  showing  up  more  conspicuously  in 
the  sepals  and  lip,  the  latter  organ  being 
moderately  well  fringed.  It  is  the  result  of 
crossing Brasso-L;elia  Gratrixice,  itself  a  bigenerie 
hybrid,  with  Cattleya.  Shown  by  Messrs. 
Charlesworth  and  Co. ,  Hay  ward's  Heath.  Award 
of  merit. 

Brasso-CaltUya  Cliflonii  magnifica. — A  very 
appropriately  named  variety,  the  flower  seen  on 
the  plant  being  truly  magnificent.  It  has  rather 
narrow  sepals  but  enormous  petals,  both  being 
pale  mauve  in  colour.  The  large,  tubular  labellum 
is  beautifully  crimped  and  fringed,  the  colour 
at  the  base  of  the  throat  being  dull  carmine. 
This  is  succeeded  by  a  patch  of  deep  lemon  colour, 
followed  on  the  most  exposed  part  with  a  large 
blotch  of  rich  carmine,  the  whole  being  edged 
with  pale  mauve.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Charles- 
worth  and  Co.,  Hay  ward's  Heath.  First-class 
certificate. 

Odontioda  Bradshawim  Gook$ons  variety. — 
Without  a  doubt  this  is  the  finest  Odontioda  yet 
exhibited.  The  flowers  are  large,  of  splendid 
form  and  of  unusual  colour  combination,  the 
usual  brick  red  hue  of  each  segment  being  sur- 
rounded by  a  margin  of  purplish  violet,  a  patch 
of  rich  yellow  being  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
labellum  Shown  by  N.  C.  Cookson,  Esq.,  Oik- 
wood,  Wylam.  First-class  certificate.  (See 
page  137.) 

Odontoqlossum  myonianum. — A  very  large- 
flowered  specimen,  the  pure  white  blossoms 
being  freely  dotted  at  the  base  of  each  segment 
with  a  cluster  of  irregular  dull  carmine  spots,  a 
pale  yellow  blotch  being  situated  at  the  base  of 
the  labellum.  Shown  by  J.  Gurney  Fowler,  Esq. , 
South  Woodford.     Award  of  merit. 

CaUleya  Triance  Grand  Monarch. — A  very 
large  and  richly-coloured  variety  of  a  well-known 
and  deservedly  popular  Orchid.  The  sepals  are 
of  the  usual  narrow  type,  but  the  petals  are  ex- 
ceedingly large,  the  colour  being  a  very  deep 
bright  purplish  or  rosy  mauve.  The  labellum  is 
large  and  beautifully  coloured,  a  rich  golden 
patch  being  placed  in  the  throat,  the  apex  being 
of  the  brightest  and  richest  carmine  crimson  pos- 
sible. Shown  by  F.  Menteith  Ogilvie,  Esq.,  The 
Shrubbery,  Oxford.     First-class  certificate. 

CattUya  SchrOderce  Mrs.  F.  Sander.  — A 
beautiful  large-flowered  pure  white  variety,  with 
the  exception  of  a  rich  yellow  blotch  extending 
from  the  centre  of  the  labellum  well  into  the 


throat.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Sanderjana  Son,  St. 
Albans.     First-class  certificate. 

The  following  Narcissi  received  commendations 
as  forcing  varieties  : 

yarcissus  Circlet.  — A  large,  circular  flower  with 
broad,  overlapping  perianth  segments  and  large, 
shallow  crown,  shaded  with  orange.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  Cartwright  and  Goodwin,  Kidderminster. 

Narcissus  Queen  of  the  West. — A  splendid 
Ajax  Daffodil  of  clear  uniform  yellow  tone  and  a 
giant  among  big  trumpet  sorts.  This,  we  feel 
sure,  is  destined  to  become  a  standard  sort 
among  market  Daffodils,  and  the  plant  is  of 
great  vigour.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Walter  T. 
Ware,  Limited,  Bath. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  9th  lost.,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


ANSWERS 
TO  OORRESPONDENTa 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers. — The  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  ivhat  the  branch  of  gardening  inay 
he,  ami  with  that  object  ivill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  An.iwers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions shouM  be  clearly  and  concisely  loritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addre.':sed  to  the  Editok  of  The 
Garden,  HO,  Taci-itock  Street,  Cosent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  Mtsiness  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  qnery  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Plants  for  a  tank  (Pojirarre).  —  Your 
tank  is  not  large  enough  for  more  than  two 
Water  Lilies  and,  say,  a  clump  of  Arums.  The 
two  most  suitable  Water  Lilies  are  William 
Falconer  (red)  and  William  Gladstone  (white). 
They  may  either  be  planted  on  mounds  of  soil  or 
in  large  pots  ;  the  latter  is  the  method  which  we 
suggest  for  your  special  conditions.  Pots  1  foot 
in  diameter  would  do,  or  pans  1.5  inches  in 
diameter  and  1  foot  deep  would  be  suitable.  The 
Pine  needles  you  speak  of  ought  to  be  cleaned 
out  once  a  week.  If  this  is  done  no  injury  to  the 
plants  ought  to  occur.  With  regard  to  soil,  if 
you  use  pots  no  soil  will  be  required  in  the 
bottom  of  the  tank.  If  you  decide  on  mounds  of 
soil,  make  a  mound  for  each  plant  2J,  feet  in 
diameter  and  1  foot  in  depth.  The  water  ought 
not  to  be  less  than  "2  feet  in  depth  or  more  than 
3  feet.  Under  your  conditions  the  water  ought 
to  be  changed  at  least  once  a  week  during  spring, 
summer  and  autumn.  The  flow  of  water  in  wet 
weather  ought  not  to  injure  the  plants.  The 
tank  ought  to  be  thoroughly  scrubbed  out  at  least 
once  a  year,  and  new  soil  must  be  given  to  the 
plants.  February  or  early  March  is  a  good  time. 
The  boggy  ground  you  speak  of  could  be  utilised 
for  such  plants  as  Iris  sibirioa,  I.  lievigata. 
Primula  japoniea,  Senecio  clivorum  and  Lythrum 
salicaria.  Good  loamy  soil  is  suitable  for  the 
plants. 

Chrysanthemums  fop  India  (Rob  Boy).— We 
are  very  pleased  to  answer  your  queries  through  the 
medium  of  The  Garden,  and  hope  that  in  giving  the 
selections  you  ask  for  they  will  prove  useful  not  only  to 
you  but  to  oLher  readers  in  India.  At  your  request  we 
have  eliminated  weak  growers  from  the  varieties  in  the 
list  lierewith,  but  fear  we  can  hardly  place  the  varieties 
in  their  order  of  merit.  In  almost  all  sections  the  varieties 
are  among  the  best  of  those  now  generally  cultivated. 
Thirty  Japanese  :  F.  S.  Vallis,  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  Bessie 
Godfrey,  Mrs.  George  Mileham,  Mrs.  F.  G.  Coster,  Algernon 
Davis,  W.  A.  Ethermgton,  Lady  Talbot,  Mrs  F.  W.  Vallis, 
Marquis  of  Northampton,  Mrs.  Charles  Penford,  Mme. 
Paolo  Radaelli,  Mme  G.  Eivol,  P.egiaald  Vallis,  Mrs. 
Norman  Davis,  J,  H.  Silsbury,  Lady  Hopetoun,  Mrs.  H. 
Barnes,  Henry  Perkins,  Edith  Jameson,  Walter  Jinks, 
F,  W.  Lever,  C.  H.  Totty  and  Mrs.  Barkley.  To  complete 
the  thirty  .Japanese  we  append  the  sis  best  novelties  of  the 


148 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  20,  1909. 


past  season,  /.'•.,  The  Hon.  llis.  Lopes,  Lady  Crisp, 
:Master  David,  Sir  Frank  Crisp,  .Tames  W.  Wolyiuux  and 
llrs.  \V.  Iggulden.  Eighteen  incurved  :  Buttercup,  Mrs. 
.1.  Hvgate,  Duchess  of  Fife,  D.iiij-  .Southam,  C.  H.  Curtis, 
Frank  Trcstian,  G.  W.  Matthews,  Mrs.  Barnard  Hankey, 
Mrs.  .T.  Wynn,  Miss  Nellie  .Southam,  Lady  Isobel, 
Eniblome  P 'itevene.  Mrs.  G.  D»nypr.  Amher  Beauty, 
Ccinitesse  d'Estoile,  Pink  Pearl,  Le  Peyton  ami  Mrs.  F. 
.Tudson.  Twelve  rettexed — these  are  seldom  met  with 
nowadays,  but  the  follo\vingare  the  better  varieties:  King 
of  Crimsons,  Dr.  Sharpe,  Cullingfordii,  Chevalier  Domage, 
Dorothy  Gibson,  Emperor  of  China,  Marquis  de  Clappiers, 
Golden  Christine,  Pink  Christine,  White  Christine,  Peach 
Christine  and  Golden  Elsie.  Twelve  spidery  :  Mrs.  Filkins, 
Mrs.  .fames  Carter,  King  of  Plumes,  Jessie  Madeline  Cole, 
Cheveaux  d'Or,  .Sam  Caswell,  Mrs.  W.  Butters,  Crimson 
Tangle,  Mignonette,  Golden  Thread,  .Titsujetui  and 
Cannell's  Favourite.  Twelve  Pompons  :  William  Westlake, 
Prince  of  Orange,  PvOsinante,  Harry  Hicks,  Mile.  Elise 
llordan,  Osiris,  William  Kennedy,  Nellie  P.ainford,  Mile. 
Martha,  Golden  Mile.  Martha.  Rose  d'Amour  and  Jlrs. 
Bateman.  .Six  hairy  varieties  :  Hairy  Wonder,  Princess 
Henrj',  Mrae.  Secareck,  Louis  Boehmer,  Beauty  of  Truro 
and  F.  J.  Taggart. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Growths  from  Rose  cutting's  tor 

inspection  {B.  T.  /".).— The  large,  wart- 
like growths  at  the  bases  of  your  Rose  cuttings 
are  what  are  usually  known  as  callus,  which  in 
your  examples  has  developed  to  an  abnormal 
size.  It  is  caused  by  an  accumulation  of  plant 
food  at  the  point  where  the  shoot  was  cut,  and  it 
is  from  this  substance  that  new  roots  are  usually 
emitted. 

List  of  fragrant  autumn-flower- 
ing  Roses    ror    India    {Rob   Roy).— A 

large  number  of  the  most  fragrant  Roses  are  to 
found  among  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  group,  but 
these  are  not  so  suitable  for  India,  neither  are  the\' 
the  best  autumnal-blooming  sorts.  We  have, 
however,  included  some  of  the  best,  and  have 
pleasure  in  submitting  a  list  of  three  dozen  sorts 
as  requested.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the 
double  Roses  succeed  best  in  a  hot  country  :  we 
have  therefore  kept  that  in  mind  in  the  lists. 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  :  A.  K.  Williams,  Charles 
Lefebvre,  Earl  of  Pembroke,  Duke  of  Connaught, 
Eugene  Furst,  General  .Jacqueminot,  Louis  van 
Houtte  and  .Xavier  Olibo.  Tea  -  Fcented  : 
Boadieea,  Mme.  A.  Mari,  Mme.  Constant 
Soupert,  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting,  Mme.  de 
Watteville,  Mme.  .Jean  Dupu}',  Perle  des 
tjardins  and  Souvenir  dun  Ami.  Hybrid  Teas  : 
Antoine  Rivoire,  Caroline  Testout,  Dean  Hole, 
Earl  of  Warwick,  Etoile  de  France,  General 
MacArthur,  Gladys  Harkness,  Griiss  an  Sanger- 
hausen,  La  France,  Liberty,  Mme.  Abel  Chate- 
nay,  Pharisaer,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez,  Mme. 
Ravary,  Marquise  Litta,  Marquise  de  Sinety, 
Mrs.  David  .Jardine,  Rhea  Reid  and  Richmond. 
Climbers :  Bouquet  d'Or,  Billiard  et  Barre, 
Climbing  La  France,  Climbing  Liberty,  Climbing 
Perle  des  Jardins,  Dr.  Rouges,  J.  B.  Clark,  La 
Soleil,  Mme.  Hector  Leuilliot,  Mme.  .Jules 
Gravereaux,  Griiss  an  Teplitz  and  M.  Desir. 
In  reply  to  your  second  query  we  can  recommend 
the  book  on  Rosea  published  from  these  oltices, 
entitled  "  Roses  for  English  Gardens,"  by  Miss 
Jekyll  and  Mr.  E.  Mawley  (l'2s.  i»d.  post  free). 

Ppuningr  pambling:  Roses  the  flpst 
season  (.i-  '^'  ^*-)- — ^'^  think,  generally  speaking,  that 
all  climbing  Roses  that  have  been  transplanted  from  the 
open  groiuid  give  the  most  satisfactory  results  in  the  end 
if  they  are  pruned  back,  say,  to  about  2  feet  of  their  base 
the  first  year.  Last  spring  we  planted  some  Lady  Gay 
and  cut  them  down  to  within  4  inches  or  5  inches  of  their 
l»ase,  and  each  plant  made  two  growths  10  feet  to  12  feet 
liing  last  summer,  besides  several  growths  4  feet  to  0  feet 
long.  In  your  case,  where  you  desire  length  of  growth 
rather  than  bushiness  at  the  base,  we  advise  you  to  retain 
one  or  two  of  the  most  matured  growths  as  long  as  possible, 
but  it  is  useless  retaining  wood  that  is  very  pithy, 
especially  of  the  multitlora  group,  because  such  growths 
will  fail  in  the  summer  just  when  they  are  wanted  to  look 
their  best.  The  wichuraianas  you  have  planted  may 
safely  be  treated  as  we  advise,  but  Claire  Jacquier,  being 
such  a  tender  Rose,  will  probably  show  the  ill-elfects  of 
the  frosts  in  having  brown  pith.  In  this  case  cut  such 
away  until  you  come  to  sound  white  pith.  There  can  be 
no  doul't  that  long-shooted,  pot-grown  plants  are  the 
most  satisfactory  when  there  are  chains  or  ropes  to  cover. 
These,  having  a  ball  of  earth  to  their  roots,  receive  no 
check,  conseciuently  their  new  growths  extend  right  away 
from  l^heir  extreme  ends.  Such  plants  of  the  wichuraiana 
Roses  may  be  purchased  with  IS-feet  to  2o-feet  gri_'Wths ; 


but.  <-'f  course,  they  cost  considerably  more  than  an  out- 
door-grown plant.  It  is  not,  however,  necessary  that  they 
should  be  sent  in  their  pots,  providing  they  are  carefully 
balled  up. 


MISCELLANEOUS 

Veg'etables  attacked  by  insects  ("'.  li.).— 
I  do  not  recognise  the  Insects  attacking  the  roots  of  your 
vegetables  from  your  description.  Please  send  up  some 
specimens,  and  I  have  no  doubt  I  shall  be  able  to  tell  you 
what  they  are  and  what  you  had  best  do  to  get  rid  of 
them.  You  have  given  your  land  a  very  heavy  dressing 
of  gas-lime,  and  I  very  much  doubt  if  you  would  be  al>le 
to  make  any  crop  grow  on  it  for  three  months  after  it 
was  applied.  Vou  will  have  done  one  good  thing,  viz., 
killed  all  the  insect  pests  in  the  soil.— O.  S.  S. 

Liming'  Potato  soil  {G.  H'.).— We  had  ample 
experience  last  year  with  Potato  breadths,  non-limed  and 
liberally  limed,  and  nothing  in  relation  to  freedom  from 
disease  in  the  tubers  grown  resulted  from  the  lime-dressed 
I.ireadth.  That  the  disease  was  more  than  usually  virulent 
last  year  was  undoubtedly  the  case,  and  was  too  con- 
siderably in  evidence  in  all  sorts  of  soils.  Your  experience 
was  therefore  not  singular,  ^Ve  understand  that  you 
propose  to  plant  Potatoes  this  season  on  the  same  ground 
you  grew  the  diseased  crop  on  last  year.  This  is  hardly 
good  policy,  as  it  would  have  been  better  under  the 
circumstances  to  have  cropped  it  with  other  kinds  of 
vegetables.  However,  whichever  ctmrse  you  take  it  may 
be  wise  to  dress  lime  freely  at  once,  and  when  slaked 
well  dig  it  in.  Put  down  heaps  of  a  bushel  to  every  rod 
and  a-half  area  and  cast  soil  over  the  heaps.  That  and 
the  air  will  cause  the  lime  to  slake  ;  then  spread  and  dig 
in.  If,  however,  the  ground  be  poor,  a  dreesing  of  horse- 
manure  at  once  dug  in  should  also  be  of  good  service. 


THE    HORTICULTURAL 
CLUB. 

"Soil  Inoculatiox." 

THE  usual  monthly  dinner  of  this  club 
was  held  on  Tuesday,  the  '.ith  inst, 
at  the  Hotel  Windsor,  under  the 
chairmanship  of  Mr.  Harry  .J.  Veitch, 
a  verj'  full  attendance  of  members 
and  guests  being  present  to  hear  a 
discussion  on  the  above  subject  between  Professor 
Bottomley  and  Mr.  F.  .J.  Chittenden  with 
reference  to  the  recent  experiments  conducted  bj' 
the  latter  with  Nitro-IUcterine  at  Wisley.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  as  a  result  of  those  experi- 
ments Mr.  Chittenden  came  to  the  conclusion,  en 
the  basis  of  very  carefully  prepared  and  tabulated 
data  that,  for  ordinary  garden  soil,  the  bacteria 
introduced  by  Professor  Cottomley's  cultures 
produced  practically  no  advantageous  results. 
Since,  however,  these  Wisley  experiments  had 
embraced,  in  addition  to  the  inoculation,  the 
application  of  varied  manures  to  many  of  the 
plots  concerned,  Professor  Bottomley  claimed  that 
this  fact  vitiated  in  many  eases  the  value  of  the 
results,  some  of  the  manures  being  admittedly 
inimical  to  the  bacteria  concerned,  and  he 
furthermore  considered  that  certain  deductions 
from  the  data  arrived  at  were  not  altogether  just, 
a  controversy  thus  arising  in  the  columns  of  the 
Gardeners'  Chronicle  presenting  the  question 
from  both  opposing  points  of  view.  The  happy 
thought  was  then  conceived  by  Mr.  E.  T.  Cook, 
the  secretary  of  the  club,  of  bringing  these  two 
gentlemen  together  on  this  occasion,  and  thus 
affording  an  opportunity  of  ventilating  the  ques- 
tion, not  merely  between  themselves,  but  in  the 
presence  of  a  number  of  gentlemen  keenly  in- 
terested in  the  matter,  and  many  of  them  capable 
of  throwing  side-lights  upon  it  by  independent 
experiments. 

Professor  Bottomlej'  opened  the  discussion  b3' 
repeating  the  argument  already  published  anent 
the  injurious  effects  of  some  of  the  manures,  and 
he  also,  by  means  of  tables  roughly  prepared  and 
displayed  in  chart  form,  reanalysed  a  number  of 
Mr.  Chittenden's  figures  to  show  that  the 
unfavourable  results  were  largely  due  to  tabu- 
lation on,  what  he  submitted,  were  unfair  lines, 
the  actual  results  from  his  standpoint  showing 
material  advantages  due  to  inoculation  under 
the  Wisley  conditions,  though  he  contended  that 
those  conditions  were  absolutely  not  such  as 
permitted  of  a  fair  trial  at  all,  the  regeneration 
of    poor   and  uncultivated    land,    and  not  the 


treatment  of  alread3'  fertile  soil,  forming  the 
main  field  for  the  inoculating  operations  which 
he  advocated.  This  address,  which  was  admir- 
ably lucid  and  characterised,  as  was,  indeed,  the 
whole  discussion,  by  the  utmost  good  humour 
and  mutual  appreciation,  created  the  most 
favourable  impression  as  the  opening  speech  for 
the  counsel  for  the  defence.  Mr.  Chittenden, 
on  the  other  side,  then  rose,  and  although  he 
declaimed  the  gift  of  eloquence  such  as  that 
which  had  just  been  heard,  he  was  no  whit 
behind  his  friendly  adversary  in  the  power  of 
summing  up  the  per  contras  and  giving  adequate 
reasons  for  the  course  he  had  pursued  in  mapping 
out  the  trials  at  Wisley  and  tabulating  the 
results,  and  it  was  abundantly  obvious  that 
ever3'  step  he  had  taken  has  been  the  outcome  of 
ripe  and  careful  prevision.  In  conclusion,  after 
dealing  with  Professor  Bottomley's  argument 
and  objections,  he  sat  down  with  the  distinct 
and  unqualified  assertion  that  it  was  his  opinion 
still  that  soil  inoculation  is  of  no  service  what- 
ever in  ordinary  garden  soils.  Professor  Keeble 
of  Reading  then  rose,  and  in  an  admirable  but 
brief  address  expressed  the  opinion  that  the 
value  of  inoculation  for  sterile  soils  such  as 
Professor  Bottomley  had  in  view  had  not  been 
in  any  way  negatived  by  the  Wisley  trials. 
The  real  fact  was  that  the  study  was  a  new 
one,  and  that  the  discrepancies  in  results  were 
mainly  due  ta  ignorance  of  other  factors  affect- 
ing the  question.  It  had  been  noted,  for  instance, 
that  inoculation  had  a  remarkable  effect  in 
modifying  the  root  system,  transforming  deep 
tap-root  systems  into  ramifying  fibrous  ones,  a 
fact  which  brought  the  nature  of  the  soil,  friable 
or  otherwise,  into  question  entirely  indepen- 
dently of  mauurial  admixture,  a  fact  which  would 
also  account  for  man}'  puzzling  differences  in 
results  obtained  under  apparently  identical  con- 
ditions. Missrs.  A.  Sutton,  C.  Pearson,  Walker, 
( i.  L.  Paul,  K.  Barr  and  Voss  also  took  part  in 
the  disoussiiii),  the  final  results  being,  as  Mr. 
Harry  Veitcli  put  it,  a  practical  draw,  a  draw, 
however,  which  he  hoped  would  be  succeeded 
later  on  by  another  discussion,  when  fresh  facts 
had  been  obtained  and  the  points  now  in  dispute 
had  become  clearer. 

A  very  hearty  vote  of  thanks  was  accorded  to 
Professor  Bottomley  and  Mr.  Chittenden,  and 
also  to  Professor  Keeble. 


SOCIETIES. 


NATIONAL    DAHLIA    SOCIETY. 

This  long-established  society,  with  which  has  been  in- 
corporated the  London  Dahlia  I'nion,  is  showing  distinct 
signs  of  activity  and  vigour,  as  evidenced  by  the  pro- 
gramme of  this  year's  work.  In  addition  to  two  exhibi- 
tions in  September  nest,  it  has  arranged  for  three  trials 
of  Dahlias  fc-r  the  purpose  of  determining  the  varieties 
best  adapted  for  garden  decoration.  These  trials  will  be 
as  follows  :  Garden  Dahlias  in  association  with  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  at  Wisley,  Cactus  Dahlias  in  con- 
junction with  ilr.  J.  T.  West  at  Urentwood,  and  Pompon 
Dahlias  at  Slough  in  conjunction  with  JNIr.  Charles 
Turner.  The  garden  Dahlias  at  AN'isley  will  be  grown 
under  a  distinctive  name,  and  two  plants  of  each  variety 
should  be  sent  in  April,  to  be  grown  on  before  planting 
out.  They  should  be  addressed,  if  by  rail,  Superintendent, 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  Gardens,  Horsley  Station, 
L.  and  S.W.R,,  or,  if  by  post.  Superintendent,  Royal 
Horticultural  Society's  Gardens.  Wisley,  Ripley,  Surrey. 
A  postcard  should  in  either  case  be  sent  announcing  the 
despatch  of  plants. 

New  varieties  of  Cactus  and  Pompon  Dahlias  are  alone 
invited,  and  these  will  be  grown  under  number  in  conjunc- 
tion with  a  comprehensive  collection  of  varieties  in  com- 
merce. Two  plants  of  each  variety  should  be  sent  not 
later  than  the  end  of  May,  ready  for  planting  out.  Those 
desirous  of  including  their  novelties  in  the  trials  should 
notify  their  intention  to  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes,  Royal  Botanic 
Gardens,  Regent's  Park,  N.W.,  and  send  with  the  notifica- 
tion the  names  of  the  varieties  intended  for  trial.  These 
names  will  be  registered  in  numerical  order,  and  the 
corresponding  nuniber  with  address  label  will  be  returned 
ready  for  despatch  to  the  trial  ground.  All  packages 
should  be  sent  carriage  paid.  On  arrival  they  will  be 
carefully  planted,  be  supported  with  a  single  stake  and 
grown  without  disbudding.  The  plants  will  be  inspected 
on  convenient  dates  by  a  special  committee  of  the- 
National  Dahlia  Society,  and  in  due  course  be  reported 
upon. 


GARDEN. 


-y^- 


^ n 


No.  1949.  -Vol.  LXXIII. 


Maech  27,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


Some  Ways  of  Using 

Anncai  Flowers  ..    149 
notes  of  the  week 
Goaport    and    Alver- 
stoke    Gardeners' 
Association    . .     . .    150 
"Hardy  Creepers  and 

TlieirUses"  ..     ..    160 
The  war  on  rats  in 

Scotland 150 

GORRESFOITDEnOE 
The    Perpetual- 
flowering  Carnation 

Society 150 

When  to  plant  fruit 

trees 150 

The  classification  of 
perpetual  -  flower- 
ing Roaes       . .     . .    151 
New     Potatoes      at 
Christmas      ..     ..    151 
Artificial  manures      . .     161 
Daffodil  notes      . .     . .     152 
Kitchen  Garden 
Cucumber  -  growing 
for  amateurs  . .     . .    162 
Rose  garden 
Eose  Griias  an  Teplitz 

from  cuttings       . .     158 
Rose  Blush  Eambler     163 
Eose  Eosette   de   la 
Legion  d'Honneur      163 


fruit 


153 


and 


164 

154 
164 
155 


Fruit  Garden 

How   to   grow 

trees  in  pots  . 

Coloured  Plate 

Chinese    Asters 
their  culture . .     . . 
Flower  Garden 

Gourds  in  the  garden 

Sweet  Pea  chat 

Notes  on  rock  plants 

GARDENING  FOR  BEaiNNEBS 

Garden  workweek  by 
week 156 

Propagation  of  fruit 
trees  by  cleft 
grafting 156 

Seakale  for  amateurs    157 
The  Town  Garden  . .    157 

GABDENlna  OF  THE  WEEK 

For  the  South  and 
South  Midlands    . .    168 

For  the  North    and 
North  Midlands  ..    158 
Growing  Cupid   Sweet 

Peas  in  barrels . .     . . 

ANSWERS       TO      CORRE 
SPONDENTS 

Flower  garden  . .  . .  15 

Trees  and  shrubs  . .  15' 

Eose  garden      . .  . .  16< 

Fruit  garden     . .  . .  16i 

Miscellaneous  . .  . .  16' 


168 


IL.I<USTRATIONS. 

A  spray  of  Rose  Blush  Rambler       153 

Chinese  Asters  and  their  culture      . .     . .     Coloured  plate 
The  quaint  Snake  Gourd  in  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew      164 

A  flood  of  flowera  in  May-time 165 

Propagation  of  fruit  trees  by  cleft  grafting  . .     . .    156,  157 


BDITORIAL,    NOTICES. 

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Q^iCCb:  tO^  Tavistock  Street,  Cavent  Qwrden,  W,C, 


SOME    WAYS     OF    USING 
ANNUAL    FLOWERS. 

ONCE  again  the  season  for  seed- 
V  sowing  has  arrived,  though  at  the 
I  time  of  writing  these  notes  a 
'  keen  easterly  wind  is  blowing 
across  the  garden,  flakes  of  snow 
promise  a  heavy  downfall  and  the  dusty  ground, 
innocent  of  the  warm  rains  February  usually 
provides,  are  the  despair  of  farmer  and  gardener. 
The  following  verses  "  On  the  Month  of 
February "  are  not  true  of  this  Quixotic  and 
uncomfortable  winter  : 

Now  shifting  gales  with  milder  influence  blow. 
Cloud  o'er  the  skies,  and  melt  the  falling  auow  ; 
The  softened  earth  with  fertile  moisture  teems, 
And,  freed  from  icy  bonds,  down  rush  the  swelling 
streams. 

Much,  therefore,  depends  upon  the  weather  as 
to  the  wisdom  of  seed-sowing.  It  is  useless  to 
sow  or  plant  if  the  ground  has  not  recovered 
from  the  icy  spell,  and  the  wise  gardener  is  he 
who  waits  a  week  or  a  fortnight  before  sowing 
seed  of  any  description.  I  thought  a  few  notes 
on  some  of  the  annual  flowers  I  have  found 
most  worthy  of  creating  rich  pictures  of  colour 
would  be  useful,  as  these  I  have  proved  from 
experience  to  be  not  only  rich  in  colour, 
possessing  also  charm  of  growth,  but  to  continue 
in  beauty  over  a  long  season.  The  "  annual " 
is  a  sadly  misunderstood  flower,  but  why  it  is 
difficult  to  understand.  Three  rules  should  be 
adhered  to:  (1)  thin  sowing  of  the  seed;  (2) 
judicious  thinning  out ;  and  (3)  a  well-prepared 
soil ;  but  doubtless  you  will  have  notes  sent  to 
you  on  this  subject,  so  I  will  not  refer  to  their 
cultivation.  The  kinds  that  have  won  my  love 
for  their  beauty  are  ; 

The  Ostrich  Pldme  China  Asters. — I  was 
the  happy  possessor  last  year  of  a  bed  of  the 
exquisite  mauve  variety  and  the  pure  white. 
The  seed  was  sown  in  shallow  boxes  in  April, 
and  these  were  placed  on  a  hot-bed,  where  I 
raise  my  Stocks  and  Phlox  Drummondi.  Later 
on  they  were  pricked  out  in  a  cold  frame,  and 
then  at  the  end  of  May  were  planted  out  in  a 
large  bed,  the  mauve  in  the  centre,  with  the 
white  variety  surrounding  it.  What  a  trembling 
sea  of  flowers,  like  the  fluffy  Chrysanthemum, 
for  which  the  China  Aster  has  been  often 
mistaken.  It  is  amusing  sometimes  when  one 
has  a  friend  who  knows  little  of  flowers  and  who 
insists  that  the  Aster  is  simply  a  Chrysan- 
themum, until  convinced  that  it  has  no  more 
to  do  a  Chrysanthemum  than  an  Apple  has  with 
a  Banana. 

The  Caucasian  Poppy.— A  lurid,  wonderful 
colour  is  this  Poppy  (Papaver  caueasicum).  It 
was  St  friend  of  my  boyhood,  but  it  seems  only[of 


recent  years — I  suppose,  since  a  real  love  for  out- 
door gardening  has  arisen  for  testhetio  and  health 
reasons — to  have  become  recognised  as  capable  of 
playing  a  great  part  in  the  beautifying  of  the 
English  garden.  I  was  first  impressed  with  its 
splendour  when  I  saw  it  scattered  among  some 
dwarf  evergreen  shrubs.  It  was  a  happy  thought 
marrying  this  flower  of  the  sun  to  the  dark- 
leaved  Berberis — I  think  the  kind  was  ;  but  any 
shrub  of  similar  character  will  give  the  same 
effect.  It  may,  of  course,  have  a  place  in  the 
border,  for  the  good  reason  that  this  Poppy  con- 
tinues to  throw  up  its  crimson,  black  blotched 
flowers  for  some  weeks,  especially  if  the  seed- 
vessels  are  picked  off  to  relieve  the  plant  of  a 
twofold  burden,  bearing  bloom  and  seed  at  the 
same  time. 

Shirley  Poppies.  —  Everyone  who  loves  a 
garden  knows  the  Shirley  Poppy,  and  an  uncon- 
ventional use  of  the  flower  is  to  sow  it  broadcast 
by  a  stream-bank,  but  as  far  as  possible  from  the 
water.  Poppies  dislike  a  moist  soil ;  they  rejoice 
in  a  warm  ground  and  full  sun.  Of  course,  one 
must  not  continue  to  eow  annual  Poppy  seed, 
but  a  beautiful  result  came  from  sowing  the  seed 
on  a  large  heap  of  turf  stacked  for  use  in  potting. 
It  may  not  seem  good  gardening,  but  the  Poppies 
were  not  troublesome  with  regard  to  the  seed, 
and  the  cloud  of  petals — pink  as  a  maiden's 
cheek,  pure  white  and  delicately  edged — were  a 
delight  to  all  who  saw  them  :  an  unusual  way 
of  sowing  this  fair  annual  flower. 

Sweet-scented  Annuals.— I  have  the  privi- 
lege of  living  in  the  summer-time  on  a  hilltop. 
The  soil  is  gravelly,  not  the  best  for  gardening, 
but  health  reasons  had  to  be  considered  ;  the 
wind  sweeps  round  the  house  on  wintry  nights 
and  tears  through  the  very  woodland  itself. 
One  thinks  then  of  the  drowsy  summer-time  ; 
and  thoughts  of  the  many  beautiful  annual 
flowers  are  the  more  intense  when  the  cata- 
logues are  studied  to  choose  the  kinds  for  the 
forthcoming  year.  Last  summer  I  sowed  Night- 
scented  Stock,  Alignonette  and  Stocks  close  to 
the  house.  With  the  sinking  of  the  sun  these 
homely  flowers  steeped  in  perfume  poured 
their  incense  into  the  warm  summer  air.  A 
calm  feeling  steals  over  the  busy  London  worker 
when  strolling  in  the  twilight  in  this  garden  of 
scents  ;  therefore,  sow  plenty  of  these  near  the 
house. 

Pink  and  White  Mallows. — Last  year  I  saw 
a  group  of  the  pink  Mallow  (Lavatera  trimestris) 
6  feet  in  height ;  the  soil  was  rich  and  moist,  and 
the  beautiful  rosy  flowers,  like  those  of  the 
Hollyhock  in  miniature,  lined  the  stems.  There 
is  no  finer  annual  plant  to  make  a  group  or 
hedge  of  than  Lavatera  trimestris,  and  in  newly 
made  gardens  it  is  a  welcome  stop-gap  until  the 
more  permanent  things  hnye  been  established, 


150 


THE    GARDEN. 


[March  27,  1909. 


A  hedge  of  it  through  the  vegetable  garden,  or 
some  little  walk  leading  to  it,  gives  just  that 
touch  of  colour  one  delights  to  see ;  it  is 
beautiful  and  unexpected.  The  white  (alba)  is 
colourless  and  associates  well  with  the  pink  form. 

Phlox  PRnMMONDi. — Distinct  colours  of  this, 
the  most  free-blooming  of  all  half-hardy  annual 
flowers,  are  more  agreeable  to  the  eye  than 
"  mixtures,"  which  have  an  unsatisfying  bizarre 
eflfeot.  I  had  four  large  beds  of  it  last  year,  and 
the  plant  is  less  upset  by  drought  than  annual 
flowers  in  general. 

Phacelia  campanularia. — Blue  is  a  colour 
that  is  never  tiring,  not  even  the  deep  blue  of  a 
good  form  of  the  common  Lobelia,  and  it  is  rare. 
Phacelaria  campanularia  gives  the  blue  of  the 
Gentian ;  it  is  a  vigorous  annual  flower,  not 
more  than  12  inches  high,  spreading  somewhat 
in  its  growth,  and  has  flowers  of  a  bell-like 
shape,  hence  the  specific  name  of  ' '  campanularia. " 
I  had  a  row  of  it  last  year,  and  shall  sow  more 
of  it  shortly.  In  ray  garden  of  sunshine  it  ic 
quite  at  home,  the  plant  delighting  in  a  blazing 
sun  and  a  not  over-rich  soil,  and  forms  a  sort  of 
margin  to  a  narrow  border  filled  with  perennials. 

Salpililossis.  —  Why  does  this  graceful, 
beautiful  annual  die  off'  mysteriously  ?  I  have 
ceased  to  sow  it  owing  to  this  fickle  character. 
Perhaps  some  reader  will  help  me,  because  the 
Salpiglossis,  with  its  wonderful  colouring,  should 
not  disappear  from  our  gardens. 

Sunflower  Primrose  Dame. — I  am  not 
certain,  but  I  believe  it  was  in  the  nursery  of 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons  of  Reading  that  I  first 
saw  this  dainty  Sunflower,  for  dainty  it  is, 
although  one  does  not  usually  assoriate  the  word 
with  this  group.  But  Primrose  Dame  has  none  of 
the  coarseness  of  the  annual  Sunflower  usually 
seen  in  gardens,  tall,  thick-stemmed  plants, 
crowned  with  an  immense  head  of  bloom,  which 
seems  to  look  down  upon  one  from  its  great 
height.  The  variety  under  notice  is  not  tall, 
and  the  flower  is  primrose  tinted,  made  softer 
by  the  almost  black  centre. 

GoDETiA  Duchess  of  Albany. — Of  the 
Godetias,  the  pure  white  variety  with  rather 
large  flowers,  named  Duchess  of  Albany,  is  well 
worthy  to  make  a  group  of.  It  blooms  in  pro- 
fusion and  lasts  long  in  its  fresh  beauty. 

Love  -  in  -  a  -  Mist  (Nigella  damascena  Miss 
Jekyll). — This  is  an  improved  form  of  the  well- 
known  Love-in-a-Mist  ;  but  to  ensure  the  full 
size  and  rich  blue  colouring  of  the  flowers  the 
seed  must  be  sown  thinly  in  rich  soil.  I  shall 
never  forget  the  bed  of  it  in  Miss  Jekyll's 
beautiful  garden  at  Munstead  Wood.  It  seemed 
as  if  a  bit  of  the  blue  sky  above  had  fallen  to 
earth.  These  are  a  few  jottings  which  I  hope  the 
Editor  will  think  worthy  of  publication.         V. 


NOTES   OF_THE   WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*^*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

April  6.  —  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Meeting  of  Committees,  12  noon. 

April  20.  — Auricula  and  Primula  Show. 


Holypopt    Cottag-ePB'     Hopticul- 
tupal  and  IndustPial  Society.— This 

is  a  very  flourishing  provincial  society,  and  the 
schedule  of  prizes  to  be  offered  at  the  annual 
show  on  August  12  is  well  worth  perusal  by  all 
who  exhibit  flowers,  fruits  and  vegetables.  Some 
exceedingly  good  prizes  are  offered,  and  given 
fine  weather  the  exhibition  should  prove  a  large 
success.  The  energetic  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  J. 
B.  Westropp,  Manor  Cottage,  Holyport,  will  be 
pleased  to  supply  full  particulars. 

Gospopt    and    Alvepstoke    Oap- 
deneps'     Association.— Although    this 

association  has  only  been  in  existence  for  three 
years,  it  has  done  much  to  forward  horticulture 
in  Hampshire,  and  the  book  of  arrangements  for 


the  present  year  is  of  an  interesting  character. 
No  less  than  four  challenge  cups  are  offered  in 
popular  classes  at  the  summer  show  to  be  held 
on  .July  14  next,  and  all  who  live  in  the  county 
should  write  for  particulars  to  the  hon.  secretary, 
Mr.  T.  E.  Hawkins,  123,  Avenue  Road,  Gosport. 
Pansies  and  Violas,— Growers  who 
intend  to  try  any  of  these  wonderfully  hardy  and 
free-blooming  garden  plants  should  lose  no  time 
in  getting  the  work  done.  Late  planting  is 
accompanied  with  considerable  risk,  as  plants 
do  not  get  properly  established  before  the  hot 
weather  sets  in,  consequently  there  is  dis- 
appointment all  round.  Intending  planters 
should  consult  the  advertisement  pages  of  this 
journal  for  prices  and  other  particulars. 

"  Hapdy     Cpeepeps     and     Theip 

Uses." — This  was  the  subject  of  a  very 
interesting  paper  which  Mr.  .T.  G.  Bishop  of 
Messrs.  Daniels  Brothers'  Nursery  gave,  before 
the  March  meeting  of  the  East  Anglian  Horti- 
cultural Club.  The  utility  of  the  family  of 
Ampelopsis  was  first  dealt  with,  followed  by 
Ivies,  Clematises,  Honeysuckles  and  .Jasmines,  all 
of  which,  though  frequently  met  with,  are,  never- 
theless, charming  subjects  for  various  purposes. 
The  more  rarer  sorts,  such  as  Bignonias, 
Magnolias,  &c.,  also  received  attention  from  the 
essayist.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  paper  an 
animated  discussion  took  place. 

Tlie  wap  on  pats  in  Scotland.— 
Deeside  farmers  have  suffipred  considerably  of 
late  through  the  depredations  of  rats,  and,  at  the 
close  of  the  weekly  auction  sale  at  Banchory 
Mart,  a  meeting  was  held  to  organise  a  crusade 
against  these  mischievous  vermin.  Professor 
Young,  Lecturer  on  Veterinary  Hygiene,  ex- 
plained the  method  adopted  at  Ellon,  where 
great  success  had  attended  applications  of 
Danysz  Virus.  The  work  was  carried  on  by  a 
committee,  presided  over  by  the  chairman  of 
the  Ellon  Parish  Council,  under  the  directions 
of  a  representative  of  the  firm.  The  virus  set 
up  a  disease,  and  the  rats,  after  eating  the  bait, 
died  within  five  to  ten  days.  After  some  dis- 
cussion, the  farmers  in  the  Banchory  district 
unanimously  agreed  that  the  experiment  should 
be  tried  in  connexion  with  Crathes  and  adjoining 
estates,  a  responsible  committee  being  appointed 
to  make  the  necessary  arrangements.  An  assess- 
ment will  be  levied  according  to  rental  on 
the  various  farmers  who  agreed  to  the  scheme. 
Both  Sir  Thomas  Burnett,  Bart.,  of  Leys  and 
Sir  John  Gladstone,  Bart.,  of  Fasque  have,  we 
understand,  promised  to  give  practical  assistance 
in  connexion  with  the  proposed  campaign 
against  rats,  which  should  prove  especially 
beneficial  to  crofters. 

The  coming  -  of- agre  of  the 
Wolvephampton  Flopai  Fete.— The 

committee  of  this  enterprising  and  flourishing 
society  is  this  year  celebrating  the  above 
auspicious  and  happy  event  in  a  right  royal  way 
by  offering  most  tempting  and  munificent 
prizes  in  most  of  the  classes  of  the  schedule,  and 
those  interested  should  lose  no  time  in  writing 
for  a  copy  to  the  secretary,  Mr.  W.  E.  B'krnett, 
Snow  Hill,  Wolverhampton.  Unfortunately,  of 
late  years  the  Holland  Park  Show  and  the 
Wolverhampton  Show  have  been  held  on  the 
same  day,  this  fact,  no  doubt,  militating  in  some 
degree  against  the  complete  success  of  both. 
This  year  this  has  happily  been  put  an  end  to,  the 
Holland  Park  Show  being  held  on  July  (J  and  7  and 
the  Wolverhampton  Show  on  July  13,  14  and  15. 
Instancing  a  few  of  the  splendid  prizes  offered, 
we  may  mention  that  a  silver  vase  value  £50,  or 
its  equivalent  in  cash,  is  offered  for  the  most 
meritorious  and  effective  display  in  the  show — 
open  to  all.  A  first  prize  of  £40  is  offered  for  a 
display  of  miscellaneous  plants  in  or  out  of 
bloom  (out  flowers  and  foliage  being  allowed) 
arranged  for  effect,  with  £30,  £20  and  £10  for 
the  next  best  respectively.  For  a  group  of 
foliage  plants  arranged  for  effect,  £25,  £20  and 
£12  10s.  are  offered.  In  a  class  for  seventy-two 
4i8tiDct  varieties  of  Roses,  £20,  £12,  £7  and  £3 


are  ottered.  There  are  classes  and  prizes  galore 
for  Sweet  Peas  ;  fruit  also  and  vegetables  are 
well  provided  for.  All  classes  in  the  schedule 
seem  to  have  been  provided  for  in  the  same 
generous  way,  which  surely  cannot  but  evoke  a 
magnificent  response  on  the  exhibition  day. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

CThe  Editor  is  not  responsible  for   the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondeiUs. ) 


The  Peppetual-floweplng:  Capna- 
tion  Society.— When  "A.  D."  writes  readers 
usually  learn,  but  many,  for,  once,  will  disagree 
with  his  note  on  page  911,  for  although  the  Per- 
petual-flowering Carnation  may  not  be  the 
favourite  flower  of  some,  to  others  it  is  a  bloom 
of  great  importance,  either  as  a  winter-flowering 
plant,  or,  as  correspondence  in  The  Garden  has 
recently  proved,  for  bedding-out  purposes.  Of 
all  winter-blooming  greenhouse  plants  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  Perpetual-flowering  Carnation  is 
probably  the  most  fascinating  hobby,  and  in 
America  it  stands  out  as  ths  most  valuable 
winter-blooming  plant  they  have,  even  as  it  is 
rapidly  becoming  in  this  country.  I  venture  to 
think  the  Perpetual-flowering  Carnation  needs'a 
patron  society  as  much  as  any  other  particular 
plant.  The  new  society  which  has  undertaken 
the  interests  of  this  plant  endeavours  to  remain 
free  from  fads  as  to  what  a  Carnation  should  be, 
just  as  much  as  it  is  free  from  cliques  of  indivi- 
duals, and  also  offers  to  members  competing 
at  its  special  shows  some  good  prizes. — 
Laurence  J.  Cook,  Hon.  Treasunr,  .9.',  First 
Aveime,  Bush  Hill  Park,  Middhfitx. 

AVhen  to  plant  fpuit  tpees.— As  a 

lifelong  fruit-grower  I  quite  agree  with  the  first 
part  of  "  D.  K.'s"  statement  in  The  Garden 
for  the  20th  ult.,  when  he  says,  "beginners  must 
often  be  puzzled  at  the  contradictory  advice 
they  receive "  from  so  many  faddists.  The 
Editor  speaks  correctly  when  he  says,  "  So  much 
depends  on  the  weather,"  to  which  I  add,  and 
the  state  of  the  soil.  The  whole  question  rests 
on  these  two  points,  and  if  both  are  satisfactory, 
then  planting  may  be  done  with  perfect  safety 
right  through  the  winter.  It  is  wrong  to  assert 
that  November  is,  practically,  the  only  safe 
month  in  which  to  plant.  Undoubtedly  November 
is  the  ideal  month  for  planting,  and  those  who 
are  able  to  do  so  should  plant  then  by  all  means  ; 
but  to  infer  that  winter  planting  (provided  it  is 
intelligently  carried  out)  is  in  any  way  disastrous 
is  sheer  nonsense.  If  this  statement  is  accepted 
as  correct,  then  scores  of  practical  foresters  are 
very  much  in  error  who  plant  all  through  the 
winter.  I  should  like  to  state  here  that  very 
great  injury  is  often  done  to  young  trees  by 
exposing  the  tender  roots  to  frost  and  cold 
winds  during  the  interval  between  lifting  and 
replanting ;  indeed,  many  trees  are  practically 
killed  in  this  way  before  planting  at  all.  In 
conclusion,  let  me  recommend  to  the  beginner 
these  three  ''don'ts":  Don't  plant  when  the 
ground  is  wet  or  pasty ;  don't  put  frosty  earth 
on  the  roots  ;  and  don't  expose  the  roots  more 
than  is  necessary. — E.  T.  Lawrence,  Kettering. 
It  is  very  well  to  lay  down  certain  hard- 
and-fast  lines  as  to  the  proper  or  best  times 
during  autumn,  winter  or  spring  when  fruit  trees 
should  be  transplanted  ;  but  every  grower, 
large  or  small,  knows  how  much  times  for 
performing  this  work  are  governed  by  conditions 
over  which  he  may  have  little  control.  Where 
ground  has  been  prepared  for  planting  and  trees 
can  be  obtained,  the  middle  of  October,  even  if 
leaves  are  still  on  the  trees,  is  not  too  early  for 
the  operation.  Just  then  the  soil  is,  as  a  rule, 
warmer  than  the  air,  and  for  that  reason  root 
action  is  immediately  encouraged.  But  if,  for 
instance,  as  was  complained  of  last  autumn,  the 
soil  is  so  dry  that  nurserymen  hesitate  to  lift 
trees  and  send  out,  the  risk  being  material,  it 
may  be  December  before  planting  can  be  done ;  and 


March  27,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN, 


151 


with  the  weather  open  and  soil  more  moist  the 
risk  incurred  in  transplanting  then  would  have 
been  much  less  than  if  done  while  so  dry  in 
October.  But  objection  to  planting  in  mid- 
winter, say,  January  and  February,  arises  chiefly 
from  two  possible  causes — soil  frozen  or  sodden 
with  rain.  To  attempt  planting  under  such 
conditions  would  be  madness.  Better  leave  over 
till  March  and  even  early  into  April,  when  frosts 
have  disappeared  and  the  soil  has  become  of  normal 
condition.  But  when  there  is  quite  open  weather 
and  the  soil  is  not  sodden — and  that  overwet  con- 
dition is  not  always  prevalent  in  winter — there  is 
absolutely  no  reason  why  planting  may  not 
proceed  during  January  and  February.  Every 
nurseryman  knows  that  vast  quantities  of  such 
tree  and  shrub  planting  is  done  all  through  the 
winter  in  open  weather  with  entirely  satisfactory 
results.  Fruit  trees  are  just  as  hardy  as 
ordinary  forest  trees  or  border  shrubs,  and  will 
under  similar  conditions  root  as  freely.  The  soil 
in  which  the  trees  are  growing,  whether  in  the 
nursery  or  elsewhere,  is  just  as  cold  as  that 
into  which  they  may  be  transplanted  ;  hence  no 
severe  check  to  roots  is  given.  It  by  no  means 
follows  that  by  transplanting  from  cold  soil  to  cold 
soil  small  roots  perish,  but  they  may  suffer  if 
before  planting  they  have  been  exposed  to  harsh, 
drying  winds. — A.  D. 

Much  depends  on  the  weather  at   the 

time  of  planting  fruit  trees  as  to  their  succeeding. 
If  moist  or  showery  weather  prevails  after 
planting,  they  have  a  far  better  chance  than 
when  cold,  drying  winds  are  sweeping  over  them. 
Then,  again,  much  depends  on  the  care  that  has 
been  exercised  after  the  plants  have  been  taken 
up.  If  allowed  to  remain  about  for  some  hours,  the 
roots  get  dry  before  being  packed,  and  there  is 
then  very  little  hope  of  success.  A  friend  of 
mine  bought  a  number  of  Apple  trees  in  March 
for  -Ss.  each,  and  he  took  prizes  with  the  fruit  at 
a  local  November  show  the  same  year.  As  a 
rule,  I  think,  if  preparation  cannot  be  made  to 
plant  in  November  it  is  much  safer  to  wait  till 
the  following  November. — W.  P.  R. 

The  classiflcatlon  of  peppetual- 

flOWevingr  Roses.— I  have  read  with  much 
interest  both  the  Rev.  Mr.  Pemberton's  and  Mr. 
Prince's  letters  as  to  the  re-classification  of 
perpetual-flowering  Roses.  I  think  many,  if  not 
most,  rosarians  are  of  the  opinion  that  the  so-called 
Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses  are  misnamed,  and  I 
agree  with  Mr.  Prince  that  the  simple  name  of 
"  Hybrids"  would  trulyand  correotlyolassify  these 
latter.  Mr.  Pemberton  rightly  draws  attention 
to  the  fact  that  certain  Roses  classed  as  hybrids 
are  misclassed,  quoting  among  others  Frau  Karl 
Druschki  as  an  instance  in  point.  On  the  occa- 
sion of  a  most  agreeable  visit  which  I  paid  to  the 
raiser  of  that  Rose  at  Treves,  I  took  the  liberty 
of  asking  Mr.  Lambert  why  he  had  classed  his 
famous  Rose  as  a  Hybrid  Perpetual,  adding  that 
as  it  had  obtained  for  me  the  only  medal  I  had 
ever  gained  in  England  for  a  Hybrid  Perpetual, 
it  seemed  to  me  that  my  light  soil  at  Bath  was 
testifying  to  a  mistake  on  the  raiser's  part  in 
classifying  Frau  Karl  I)ruschki  as  a  Hybrid  Per- 
petual. While  urging  that  the  said  Rose  did 
contain  a  moiety  of  hybrid  blood,  it  appeared  to 
me  that  Mr.  Lambert  regretted  that  he  had  not 
classed  the  Rose  as  a  Hybrid  Tea.  Leaving  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Mr.  Pemberton  next  enquires 
why,  among  other  Roses,  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley 
should  be  classed  as  a  Tea  ?  Possibly  the  reply 
to  this  would  be  that  doubtless  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley  claims  some  fair  share  of  Tea  blood,  and 
allowing  such  to  be  the  case,  what  can  even  a 
first-class  raiser  of  Roses  do  it  both  friends  and 
neighbours  beseech  him  to  name  after  each 
of  them,  not  one  of  your  hybrids,  nor  yet 
even  one  of  your  beautiful  Hybrid  Teas,  no ! 
nothing  less  than  that  embodiment  of  loveliness — 
a  perfect  Tea  Rose  ?  To  Mr.  Pemberton's  enquiry, 
Can  anything  be  done  to  rectify  Roses  wrongly 
classed  ?  I  would  suggest  that  after  a  Rose  has 
been  fairly  tested  a  verdict  given  by  the  experts 
of  the  National  Rose  Society  should  sutfice  to 


place  the  Rose  under  its  proper  heading ;  at  least, 
in  our  own  country.  But  when — and  because  of 
mistakes  on  the  part  of  some  raisers  of  Roses — 
Mr.  Pemberton  calmly  suggests  that  a  general 
conglomeration  (which  he  calls  an  amalgamation) 
of  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas 
should  be  made,  I  recall  to  mind  the  last  conver- 
sation I  had  with  Dean  Hole,  one  of  the  founders 
and  the  first  president  of  our  National  Rose 
Society.  While  admiring,  at  the  Temple  Show,  a 
lovely  Hermanos,  the  Dean  reminded  me  "  that 
no  Tea  Rose  had  been  named  after  himself." 
Remembering  this  and  the  many  conversations 
I  had  with  that  enthusiastic  lover  of  Tea 
Roses,  as  Dean  Hole  certainly  was,  I  naturally 
ask.  What  would  he  have  thought  of  the  proposi- 
tion to  demolish  the  Tea  classes  ;  this,  too,  in 
the  cause  of  "  progress  "  ?  Again,  I  remember 
our  late  secretary,  the  Rev.  Mr.  D'ombrain, 
telling  me  that  other  rosarians  thought  with  him- 
self that  any  highly  coloured  crimson  Tea  seemed 
out  of  place  when  exhibited  along  with  the  other 
Teas.  May  I  not  ask,  too,  what  Mr.  D'ombrain 
would  have  thought  of  a  pseudo  "progress" 
which,  after  bowling  over  his  pet  Tea  classes, 
would  condescendingly  permit  an  exceptional 
Tea  bloom  to  be  exhibited,  probably  between 
two  giant  hybrids,  in  one  of  Mr.  Pemberton's 
"specimen"  boxes?  What,  too,  the  late  Mr. 
Benjamin  Cant  (whose  own  prize  medal  Souvenir 
d'Elise  Vardon  will  ever  live  in  the  memory — by 
whose  advice  I  built  wall  after  wall  solely  for  the 
cultivation  of  Teas)  would  have  thought  of  a 
progress  which  would  simply  annihilate  the  Tea 
classes  ?  And  that  celebrated  Tea  Rose-grower, 
Mr.  George  Prince,  with  his  never-to-be-forgotten 
Nadaillacs  ?  Surely  Mr.  Pemberton's  heretical 
proposition  is  enough  to  make  these  canonised 
rosarians  turn  in  their  graves  I  And  our  own 
Rev.  Mr.  Burnside  !  No  need  can  there  be  of 
asking  what  he  thinks  of  such  progress ;  he  whose 
Cleopatras  and  Innoeente  Pirolas  of  auld  lang 
syne  must  have  rejoiced  the  cherubim  and  the 
seraphim,  even  allowing,  as  in  conformity  with 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Pemberton's  notion  of  progress, 
that  these  latter  had  already  been  amalgamated 
with  the  archangelio  choirs.  "Specimen  Roses'' 
Mr.  Pemberton  describes  "as  Roses  whose  value 
lies  principally  in  the  beauty  of  the  individual 
flowers  as  staged  for  exhibition."  May  I  take  it 
that  such  are  the  blooms  usually  selected  by  the 
judges  as  being  most  worthy  of  medals  V  For  if 
Roses  unmistakably  inferior  to  medal  blooms 
fall  under  the  category  of  "  Specimen  Roses,  ' 
what  advantage  is  there  to  be  gained  by  such 
exhibits,  as  we  have  enough  and  to  spare  of  such 
blooms  at  our  ordinary  Rose  shows  V  If,  on  the 
other  hand,  medal  blooms  are  to  be  demanded, 
any  of  the  judges  will  tell  you  that  such  blooms 
are  few  and  far  between ;  that  even  the  great 
nurserymen  with  their  thousands  find  it  ditfioult 
to  discover  such  in  their  nurseries.  How,  then, 
can  the  ordinary  run  of  amateurs  be  expected 
to  stage,  on  any  given  day,  a  box  of  blooms 
worthy  to  be  considered  as  "  Specimen  Roses  "  ? — 
AiEXANDBB  Hill  Geay,  Island  of  Santa  Maria, 
Azores,  Portugal. 

New    Potatoes   at    Chpistmas.— 

I  am  very  glad  to  reply  to  Mr.  Walters  and  to 
supply  further  information  about  growing  new 
Potatoes  for  Christmas.  I  grew  them  in  frames 
that  had  had  a  crop  of  Melons  cleared  off  about 
the  end  of  September,  forking  up  the  mould  and 
making  it  firm.  I  found  enough  heat  left  in  the 
frames  ;  but  if  they  get  too  cold  take  off  the 
outside  lining  and  make  it  up  again  with  fresh 
stable  manure,  keeping  the  heat  up  to  55°  or 
60°.  I  had  no  fire-heat.  The  Early  Ashleaf 
and  Myatt's  Prolific  were  the  sorts  I  grew, 
and  these  were  dug  from  the  open  ground  at 
the  end  of  May,  good  -  sized  sets  selected 
(after  the  large  ones  were  used)  and  hardened 
off  in  the  sun  and  air  for  a  fortnight,  then 
stored  in  an  airy  shed  or  room  till  planting  time. 
By  proper  management  and  convenience  a  con- 
tinual supply  may  be  obtained  through  the 
spring. — 0.  H.  Clissold. 


ARTIFICIAL    MANURES. 

Their  Uses  and  Misuses. 

DOUBTLESS  many  amateur  readers  of 
.  The  Garden,  and  possibly  a  few 
I  professionals,  have  at  the  most  but 
J  very  hazy  ideas  as  to  the  proper 
uses  of  artificial  manures,  and  it  is, 
therefore,  proposed  in  this  article 
to  briefly  touch  on  a  few  points  relating  to  such 
manures,  and  thereby  bring  out  the  uses  and 
misuses  to  which  they  may  be  put.  The  term 
artificial  will  be  used  in  its  broadest  sense,  and 
will  include  organic  or  inorganic  manures  other 
than  farmyard,  stable  or  similar  natural  products. 
Many  good  artificial  manures  have,  I  am  sure, 
been  unjustly  condemned  owing  to  their  actions 
on  plant-life  being  misunderstood,  and  I  well 
remember  one  old  fellow  dosing  his  Tomatoes 
with  nitrate  of  soda  and  marvelling  at  their 
wondrous  growth  ;  that  they  did  not  bear  fruit 
he  would  not  believe  was  the  result  of  such 
feeding  until  it  was  actually  demonstrated  to 
him  the  following  season. 

For  the  purpose  of  saving  space  it  will  be  well 
to  divide  these  manures  into  three  general  sec- 
tions, viz.,  nitrogenous,  potassic  and  phosphatic, 
as  each  has  a  certain  efifect  on  plant-life.  Nitro- 
genous manures  are  those  in  which  nitrogen  pre- 
ponderates, and  are  represented  by  nitrate  of 
soda,  sulphate  of  ammonia,  soot  and  guano.  The 
action  of  all  these  on  plants  is  to  stimulate 
growth  and  to  give  the  foliage  a  healthy,  green 
appearance.  At  first  sight  such  manures  may 
appear  very  satisfactory,  and  so,  doubtless,  they 
are  when  properly  used.  It  must,  however,  be 
borne  in  mind  that  abundant  foliage  is  usually 
produced  at  the  expense  of  flowers  and  fruit ; 
consequently  to  apply  nitrogenous  manures  in 
any  quantity  to  plants  grown  for  their  flowers  or 
fruit  would  be  a  mistake.  The  crops  for  which 
they  are  particularly  valuable  are  such  as 
Cabbages,  Lettuces  and  foliage  plants  in  general. 
As  they  are  very  quick  in  their  action,  these 
manures,  with,  perhaps,  the  exception  of  soot, 
should  only  be  applied  to  plants  in  active  growth, 
otherwise  their  virtues  will  be  wasted.  Where 
fruiting  or  flowering  plants  are  in  a  young  state 
and  apparently  need  a  stimulant,  one,  or  perhaps 
two,  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda,  sulphate  of 
ammonia  or  guano  may  with  advantage  be  given, 
but  otherwise  they  should  be  withheld  from  such 
crops.  Half  an  ounce  of  either  to  a  gallon  of 
water  makes  a  good  liquid  manure. 

Potassic  manures  are  generally  represented  by 
kainit,  sulphate  of  potash,  muriate  of  potash  and 
nitrate  of  potash.  These  are  slow  in  their  action, 
and  are  usually  dug  into  the  soil  two  or  three 
months  in  advance  of  cropping.  Generally 
speaking,  their  functions  are  to  build  up  solid 
stems  and  aid  in  the  production  of  flowers  and 
fruit ;  consequently  they  are  valuable  for  all  kinds 
of  fruit  and  root  crops.  Kainit  is  used  generally 
at  the  rate  of  31b.  per  square  rod,  and  the  others, 
which  are  dearer  but  stronger,  at  lib.  or  lUb. 
per  square  rod. 

Phosphatic  manures  assist  in  the  formation  of 
protoplasm,  the  substance  which  forms  new 
tissue  and  which  is  most  important ;  hence  their 
value  for  all  kinds  of  plants  must  not  be  over- 
looked. The  best-known  manures  that  come 
under  this  section  are  superphosphate  of  lime, 
bone-meal  and  basic  slag,  all  of  which  are  slow  in 
their  action  and  are  usually  applied  shortly  in 
advance  of  seed-sowing  or  planting.  Super- 
phosphate, however,  is  quicker  in  its  action  than 
the  other  two,  and  may  be  applied  during  their 
growth  to  flowering  plants.  Sweet  Peas  particu- 
larly deriving  considerable  benefit  from  such 
applications.  Bone-meal  is  generally  applied  to 
soil  for  fruit  trees,  Vines,  &e.,  a  6-inch  potful  to 
a  barrow-load  of  soil  being  a  good  amount  to  use. 
Basic  slag  is  particularly  valued  for  lawns,  it 
being  applied  in  autumn  at  the  rate  of  lib.  to  a 
square  yard. 

In  addition  to  the  manures  enumerated  above, 
there  are  the  many  excellent  proprietary  manures 


152 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[Maech  27,  1909. 


which  are  more  or  less  complete  plant  foods  and 
which  usually  contain  nitrogen,  potash  and  phos- 
phate in  properly  adjusted  proportions,  these 
being  represented  by  such  as  Clay's  Fertilizer, 
With's  Manure  and  Wellson's  Plant  Food.  It 
must,  however,  be  strictly  borne  in  mind  that  to 
get  the  best  results  from  any  artificial  manures 
they  should  be  used  in  conjunction  with,  and 
not  as  substitutes  tor,  farmyard  or  natural 
manures,  and  the  proprietary  compounds  used 
strictly  according  to  the  directions  supplied  with 
them. 

Farmyard  or  similar  manures,  in  addition  to 
the  plant  food  they  contain,  give  to  the  soil  that 
valuable  rooting  and  warmth-attracting  organic 
substance  known  as  humus,  without  which  a  soil 
cannot  be  fertile.  A  manure,  however,  that  has 
now  been  on  the  market  for  some  years,  and 
which  may  be  used  as  a  substitute  for  farmyard 
or  similar  manures,  is  Wakeley's  Patent  Hop 
Manure,  manufactured  by  Wakeley  Brothers, 
75a,  Bankside,  London.  This  is  composed  of 
spent  Hops  which  have  been  chemically  treated 
with  nitrates,  potash  and  phosphates  so  as  to 
render  the  whole  a  complete  plant  food.  As  the 
Hops  decay  they  form  humus,  just  the  same  as 
the  organic  matter  found  in  farmyard  manure ; 
hence  it  may  be  used  for  all  kinds  of  crops  where 
farmyard  or  similar  manure  is  not  easily  obtain- 
able. K. 


DAFFODIL     NOTES. 

The  Forced  Bulb  Show. 

THE  spring  bulb  show  of  March  !1  has 
come  and  gone,  and  if  a  very  large 
and  diversified  exhibition  of  flowers 
and  an  enormous  attendance  of  the 
general  public  spell  success,  it 
must  be  pronounced  an  unqualified 
one.  I  was  glad  to  see  that  Daffodils  were  so 
much  in  evidence,  both  private  persons  and  the 
trade  contributing  their  quotas  to  make  up  a 
most  interesting  collection  of  cut  flowers  and 
pot  plants. 

The  firm  of  Messrs.  Cartwright  and  Goodwin 
staged  in  a  shallow  semi-circle  about  100  vases, 
which  must  have  represented  quite  eighty 
varieties.  The  whole  had  a  graceful  appearance, 
for  between  each  vase  there  was  a  small  pot  of 
that  pretty  drooping  Grass,  Isolepis  gracilis. 
There  is  no  mistake  ;  the  employment  of  this 
particular  plant  was  an  inspiration — it  harmonised 
so  well  with  both  flowers  and  background. 
Visitors  saw  such  varieties  as  Mme.  de  Graaflf, 
Lucifer,  King  Alfred,  White  Lady,  Torch, 
Blackwell  (exceptionally  good),  Artemis,  Citron, 
Duke  of  Bedford,  several  of  the  new  Poetaz 
varieties,  a  few  new  seedlings  not  in  commerce, 
together  with  the  bright-cupped  Scarlet  Eye, 
with  its  fine  Poetarum-looking  perianth,  and 
Circlet,  a  quite  new  Engleheartii  of  great  sub- 
stance and  beautiful  symmetry.  These  were 
all  good  and  aflorded  the  public  an  idea  of  how 
the  all-too-short  open-air  season  of  some  of  the 
choicer  things  may  be  prolonged. 

Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  had  a  collection  of  cut 
blooms,  which  contained  some  of  the  "dearer 
cheap  "  varieties  which  may  well  be  used  for  pot 
work.  Ariadne,  the  beautiful  drooping  Leedsii  ; 
Admiral  Togo,  the  handsome  yellow  large 
trumpet ;  and  the  Rival,  a  neat  yellow  and  white 
inoomparabilis)  were  noticeable.  I  should  like  to 
mention  here  Fairy  (Jueen,  which  I  saw  on  this 
firm's  stand  on  February  9.  It  is  a  fine  forcer, 
as  was  proved  by  its  being  exhibited  then  in 
such  good  condition.  It  has  a  white  perianth 
and  the  outer  half  of  its  segments  gracefully 
incurve.  The  cup  is  narrow  and  rather  long, 
something  like  a  Nelsonii. 

Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Son  had  a  large 
exhibit  of  Daffodils  in  pots.  It  was  a  pity  that 
they  were  arranged  so  much  on  a  level.  The 
individual  flowers  and  potfuls  were  lost  in  the 
mass,    and    accordingly    its    educational    value 


lessened.  I  noticed  some  excellent  Maximus 
and  Princess  Mary,  while  Glory  of  Leiden  and 
Almira  were  both  fine.  This  last  variety  is 
well  worth  trying  in  pots.  It  keeps  its  true 
character  ever  so  much  better  than  most  ot  the 
Poets  when  grown  under  glass. 

Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath  had  a  varied  collection  of 
pot  plants.  My  favourite  Eyebright  was  certainly 
one  of  the  best.  It  is  a  delightful  flower,  scarcely 
a  Poet  and  yet  hardly  a  typical  Burbidgei.  Duke 
of  Bedford,  Spinnaker  and  'Weardale  Perfection 
were  also  goou. 

A  few  good  clumps  of  N.  Glory  of  Leiden, 
Poetaz  Irene  and  Poetaz  Aspasia  stood  out  in 
Lady  Tate's  exhibit  among  some  Tulips  and 
other  plants.  The  Poetaz  type  are  very  good 
indeed  as  pot  plants.  When  they  are  better 
known  I  feel  sure  there  will  be  a  great  demand, 
and  from  conversations  with  one  or  two  at  the 
show  I  know  I  am  by  no  means  alone  in  my 
prognostication.  I  had  myself  a  collection  of 
almost  all  the  varieties  at  present  in  commerce 
on  a  small  stand.  I  fear  they  were  too  crowded 
to  do  themselves  justice,  but,  all  the  same,  they 
attracted  a  good  deal  of  attention.  Alsace  is  the 
earliest  to  flower  and  Elvira  about  the  latest. 
.Taune  a  Merveille  and  Sunset  are  two  very 
taking  yellows  ;  the  latter  has  an  orange  cup  and 
pale  yellow  perianth  and  the  former  is  a  yellow 
self.  I  hope  before  the  end  of  the  season  to  refer 
to  this  type  again. 

Whenever  Mr.  Walter  T.  Ware  brings  up  an 
exhibit  one  is  certain  that  it  is  one  worth 
bringing.  At  this  show  he  had  a  magnificent 
large  trumpet  variety  named  Queen  of  the  West. 
It  is  a  very  large  flower  of  a  lovely  Captain 
Nelson  shade  of  yellow,  a  vigorous  grower  and 
of  good  constitution.  Last  year  it  received  an 
award  of  merit,  and  it  was  put  up  for  a  first- 
class  certificate  at  the  committee  meeting  on 
March  ftth.  It  is  not  a  show  flower,  but  as  a 
market  variety  it  has  a  great  future. 

The  Narcissus  Committee's  Awards. 

Up  to  the  present  there  has  been  an  unwritten 
law  that  no  flower  grown  under  glass  should  be 
eligible  for  an  award.  As  the  council  has  now 
instituted  a  forced  bulb  show,  there  is  a  general 
feeling  abroad  among  members  of  the  committee 
that  they  should  recognise  in  some  way  varieties 
that  are  particularly  good  for  early  flowering  in 
pots.  A  considerable  discussion  on  this  point 
took  place,  and  ultimately  it  was  decided  that  a 
sort  of  forcing  commendation  might  be  given  to 
particularly  good  sorts  that  were  shown  at  or 
before  the  first  meeting  in  March  and  considered 
worthy  of  the  honour.  Another  question  that  I 
think  deserves  the  attention  of  the  committee  is 
the  important  one.  What  are  awards  given  for  ? 
For  excellence  as  a  show  flower,  or  for  its  suit- 
ability for  garden  decoration,  or  for  its  value  as 
a  market  or  cut  bloom  ?  There  is  nothing  in  the 
words  "award  of  merit"  to  point  out  in  what 
its  merit  consists. 

Daffodil  Classification. 

Naturally,  I  heard  a  good  deal  about  this. 
There  is,  I  find,  a  sort  of  feeling  that  the  report 
of  the  classification  committee  should  have  been 
referred  to  the  Narcissus  committee  before  it 
was  officially  sanctioned  and  published.  There 
is  a  considerable  soreness  on  the  part  of  some 
because  this  was  not  done.  It  is  a  pity  it  was 
not,  but  the  council  cannot  be  blamed  for  doing 
just  what  it  was  asked.  The  old  committee, 
with  the  addition  of  three  or  four  fresh  names, 
was  appointed  as  a  sub-committee  and  asked  to 
report,  if  possible,  before  the  end  of  the  season. 
I  can  only  express  the  hope  that  it  will  begin  its 
work  at  once,  so  that  at  the  end  of  the  season 
we  may  have  a  complete  classification.  I  found, 
too,  a  good  deal  of  misunderstanding  about 
its  intention.  Had  the  title  been  "The 
Classification  of  Dafl'odils  for  Shows  "  it  would 
have  made  clear  what  the  purpose  was  and 
prevented  a  considerable  amount  of  misunder- 
standing. Joseph  Jacob. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


CUCUMBER  -  GR0WINC4 
AMATEURS. 


FOR 


A  MATEURS  are  often  at  a  loss  to  know 

/\  why    good    Cucumbers     cannot     be 

/   \        grown,  after  having  expended  eon- 

/      %       siderable   time  and    means    on    the 

2  *.     plants,  with,  in  the  end,  only  poor 

results.  It  may  be  well  to  point  out 
a  few  of  the  difficulties,  and  I  will  divide  my 
notes  into  three  groups — the  Cucumber  house 
proper,  in  a  greenhouse  (or  what  many  amateurs 
would  call  a  mixed  house)  and  in  frames,  with 
only  stable  manure  to  supply  the  heat. 

Cucumbers  in  Houses. 
By  this  I  mean  small,  low  houses,  often  called 
pits,  but  large  enough  to  work  in  with  comfort. 
Frequently  these  are  well  heated,  so  that  a  start 
may  be  made  much  earlier  by  sowing  seeds  in 
■2A-inch  pots  and,  when  the  seedlings  have  made 
the  third  leaf,  planting  out.  The  seeds  when  sown, 
if  the  soil  is  at  all  moist,  should  not  be  watered 
till  the  plants  appear,  as  they  are  most  sus- 
ceptible to  excessive  moisture  or  cold  in  their  early 
stage,  that  is,  when  they  are  germinating.  Many 
seeds  are  lost  by  too  much  moisture,  and  the 
seedsman  is  blamed.  At  the  time  the  seeds  are 
sown  the  soil  heaps  should  be  placed  2  feet  to 

3  feet  apart  in  the  house.  This  should  consist  of 
light  good  loam  with  some  well-decayed  manure, 
or,  if  at  all  heavy,  some  wood-ashes  and  old  fine 
mortar  rubble  mixed.  Each  plant  should  have 
about  a  bushel  of  soil  placed  in  mounds  ;  less 
would  suffice  at  the  start,  as  it  is  much  better  to 
feed  often  by  adding  rich  top-dressings  as  soon  as 
the  surface  roots  show.  When  this  is  done  every 
three  weeks  good  results  follow.  As  a  surface 
food  such  aids  as  bone-meal  and  occasionally  a 
little  fresh  soot  are  of  great  assistance.  I  now 
come  to  temperatures  and  general  culture.  At  the 
start  I  should  state  that  few  plants  do  better 
when  given  heat  and  moisture.  Growers  for 
market,  who  grow  under  high  pressure,  give 
much  heat,  syringe  the  plants  frequently  and 
ventilate  very  little ;  but  the  amateur  requires 
the  plants  to  fruit  as  long  as  possible.  This  is 
best  secured  by  what  may  be  termed  a  middle 
course. 

When  planting,  the  soil  should  be  as  warm  as 
the  house,  say  75°,  and  the  night  temperature 
a  few  degrees  lower,  say,  65"  to  70°,  according 
to  the  weather,  the  day  temperature  of  the  house 
70°  to  75°,  but  allowing  the  thermometer  to  run 
up  freely  in  bright  sunshine.  A  little  ventilation 
should  be  given  when  the  house  stands  at 
80°  to  85°,  but  avoid  cold  draughts.  Close  early — 
that  is,  as  soon  as  the  temperature  begins  to 
decline — thoroughly  damp  all  parts  of  the  house 
and  all  portions  of  the  plant,  especially  the 
upper  part  of  the  foliage.  The  plant  will  soon 
reach  the  ridge  of  the  house,  and  should  be 
stopped  at,  say,  3  feet  from  its  base.  This  is 
pinching  out  the  point  of  the  plant.  It  will 
then  send  out  side  or  lateral  growths.  Tie 
these  in  to  the  trellis  and  pinch  out  the  point  of 
each  at  the  joint  beyond  the  fruit.  This  must 
be  continued  as  growth  increases,  always  bearing 
in  mind  that  by  laying  in  new  wood  and  cutting 
out  weak  growths  there  will  be  no  want  of  fruit. 
It  is  the  absence  of  fruiting  wood  regularly  laid 
in  that  causes  plants  to  fail.  Another  strong 
point  is  this — never  overfruit.  There  is,  even 
with  gardeners,  a  certain  dislike  to  cut  away  or 
sacrifice  young  fruits ;  but  it  must  be  done  to  keep 
the  plants  vigorous.  If  too  many  are  allowed 
at  any  one  time  the  burden  is  too  heavy.  When 
in  full  vigour  give  liquid  manure  two  or  three 
times  a  week,  and  always  use  water  as  near  the 
same  temperature  of  the  house  as  possible. 

Cucumbers  in  a  Greenhouse. 

Here  a  "  give  and  take  "  methodmust  be  adopted, 
and  the  plants  sown  at  the  middle  or  end  of  March, 


March  27,  1909.1 


THE    GAKDEN. 


153 


as  already  advised,  and  placed  on  shelves  at  the 
warm  end  of  the  house  soon  germinate.  They 
may  be  grown  on  the  stage  or  in  large  pots  or 
boxes. 

I  prefer  the  iirst-named,  as  grown  thus  a 
heavier  return  may  be  secured.  Frequently  the 
plants  may  be  grown  at  the  back  of  the  stage, 
and  other  things,  such  as  Ferns  or  foliage  plants, 
at  the  front  part.  The  remarks  previously  made 
with  regard  to  soils  and  food  are  applicable  in 
this  case  also.  I  should  add  that  by  raising  the 
plants  at  the  date  noted  the  seedlings  will  be 
ready  to  plant  out  early  in  April,  but  any  time 
in  that  month  will  do.  Also,  if  the  house  is 
crowded  with  plants  for  outdoor  decoration, 
seed  may  be  sown  later,  so  that  when  the  plants 
are  removed  the  Caeumbers  are  ready  to  take 
their  place.  From  a  fortnight  to  three  weeks 
will  be  sufficient  to  raise  the  plants  for  planting 
out. 

The  greenhouse  may  not  have  much  artificial 
heat,  but  much  may  be  done  by  sun-heat, 
closing  early  and  not  giving  much  ventila- 
tion or  moisture  in  cold  weather.  As  to  shade, 
the  safest  plan  is  to  paint  the  glass  outside  with 
a  mixture  of  milk  and  whiting,  adding  any 
other  colour  desired,  and  even  then  on  very  hot 
days  in  summer  it  may  be  necessary  tn  use  thin 
tiffany  or  canvas  for  an  hour  or  two.  In  a  mixed 
house  the  temperatures  cannot  always  be  main- 
tained as  desired  ;  under  these  conditions  there 
may  be  a  drop  of  several  degrees  to  suit  the 
•  other  occupants.  The  Cucumbers  will  not  suffer  ; 
but  growth  will  be  less  rapid,  less  food  will  be 
required  and  less  heat  at  night. 

CocuMBERs  I^f  Frames. 

Here  the  amateur  will  find  a  pleasant  and 
profitable  occupation,  and  by  the  term  "  frames'' 
I  mean  ordinary  three-light  ones  which  can  be 
lifted  on  to  a  heap  of  fermenting  material  or  a 
frame  built  on  brickwork  and  a  good  depth  of 
warm  manure  placed  in  the  bottom  of  sufficient 
thickness,  say,  3  feet  to  4  feet,  so  that  the 
warmth  is  retained  for  some  time.  A  violent 
heat  does  much  harm.  The  manure  should  be 
prepared  some  little  time  in  advance  by  turning 
over  and  exposing  and  well  incorporating  the 
strawy  litter  with  the  shorter  material.  This 
will  then  become  more  solid,  and  when  placed 
in  position,  3  feet  to  4  feet  deep,  should  be  well 
trodden  to  retain  the  warmth  for  a  considerable 
time.  Place  the  manure  and  soil  some  little 
time  in  advance  of  planting,  so  that  the  soil 
gets  warmed  through.  Give  about  a  bushel  of 
soil  to  two  plants,  one  to  fill  the  lower  part  of 
the  frame,  the  other  the  upper  part.  These  ,will 
fill  one  light  or  sash.  Tlie  soil  when  in  position 
should  be  about  12  inches  from  the  glass,  and  as 
the  manure  sinks  this  allows  for  top-dressings. 

At  the  planting  make  each  specimen  firm  and 
use  some  of  the  finest  soil  round  the  delicate  roots, 
watering  afterwards  with  tepid  water.  Keep 
the  frame  quite  close  for  several  days  and  shade 
from  the  sun  with  mats  or  canvas.  Less  moisture 
is  required  in  a  frame  than  in  any  of  the  other 
modes  of  culture  described  above,  and  a  gentle 
damping  overhead  with  tepid  water  after  warm 
sunshine  will  suffice,  as  there  is  always  moisture 
from  the  bed.  The  plants  at  the  start — indeed, 
always  at  night — are  greatly  benefited  by  having 
the  glass  of  the  frames  covered,  This  makes 
from  7°  to  10°  more  warmth.  As  regards  venti- 
lation, do  not  give  large  volumes  of  air  to  cause 
draughts.  Study  the  weather  and  ventilate 
from  the  upper  part  of  the  frame.  If  the  frames 
are  of  wood  placed  on  manure,  put  a  liberal 
quantity  of  fresh  material  round  the  outside  as 
the  older  material  sinks.  This  may  be  done 
every  three  or  four  weeks,  and  when  feeding 
the  plants  give  tepid  liquid  manure  each 
we<»k. 

Shading  will  be  most  essential  during  bright, 
sunny  days,  or  the  foliage  will  become  badly 
scorched.  Use  tlie  mixture  advised  for  the 
greenhouse  and  renew  it  as  often  as  it  is  washed 
away  by  rain.  G.  Wythes. 


THE    ROSE_GARDEN. 

KOSE     GHUSS    AN    TEPLITZ    FEOM 
CUTTINGS. 

THIS  brilliant  Rose  can  be  easily  propa- 
gated by  cuttings,  as  freely  almost 
as  Laurels  or  Privet,  and  I  consider 
it  the  method  of  increase,  as  one 
obtains  a  freer  blooming  without  the 
embarrassing  growth  experienced  with 
strong  budded  plants.  Last  April  we  trans- 
planted some  one  year  old  cuttings  of  Griiss  an 
Teplitz,  and  prior  to  planting  they  were  cut  back 
hard  to  within  2  inches  or  3  inches  of  the  base. 
In  October  these  plants  gave  a  most  brilliant 
display,  which,  apart  from  their  summer  bloom- 
ing, proved  the  utility  of  this  treatment  in 
affording  such  a  display  so  late  in  the  year.  I 
believe  by  transplanting  these  own-root  plants 
annually  in  the  spring  and  pruning  them  hard 
at  the  time  we  have  solved  the  difficulty  of  how 
to  best  employ  such  a  brilliant  Rose  for  bedding. 
Good  firm  wood,  preferably  with  a  heel,  if 
inserted  in  October  will  give  good  well-rooted 
cuttings,  fully  90  per  cent,  taking.  The  cut 
tings  should  be  about  S  inches  in  length  and 
planted  in  rather  gritty  soil  quite  in  the  open 


THE    FRUIX_GARDEN. 

HOW    TO    GEOW    FRUIT    TEEES 
IN    POTS. 

( Continued Jrom page  US.) 

Their  Culture. — When  to  Purchase. 

A  N  ideal   time  to    purchase  trees    in   pots 

/%  is   in   the   autumn,   when  the  wood 

/   %         is  well  ripened  aud  the  buds  promi- 

/      ^       nent.     It  is   then  possible  to    have 

/         ^     them  sent  long  distances,  out  of  pots 

if  needs  be ;  but  I  do  not  recommend 

this  practice  unless  they  are  packed  securely  in 

crates  or  vans.    When  the  leaves  are  off  the  trees 

it  is  easier  to  form  an  idea  as  to  the  quality  of  each 

one.   The  best  reason,  too,  why  autumn  purchases 

are  preferable  is  that  of  enabling  the  buyer  to 

repot  the  trees  in  good  time,  so  as  to  have  all  the 

work  completed  before  frosts  set  in,  especially  if 

the  trees  are  intended  for  wintering  outside,  or 

partiall}'  so.     This  may  have  to  be  done  for  a 

time  and  until  the  houses  can  be  cleansed  after 

other  crops.     It  is  v.-eU,  however,  to  house  in  a 

cool  structure  as  soon  as  possible. 

What  to  Purchase. 

The  best  trees  to  purchase  are  those  that  have 

been  established  and  grown  in  pots  for  at  least 


A   SPRAY   OE  ROSE   BLUSH  RAMBLER. 


in  rows  or  in  beds.  When  planting  let  them  be 
buried  in  the  soil  so  that  not  more  than  1  inch  is 
exposed.  After  severe  frosts  go  over  the  cuttings 
and  push  them  down,  for  it  will  be  found  that  the 
frost  has  raised  them  1  inch  or  2  inches  out  of 
the  ground.  p. 


EOSE    BLUSH    EAMBLER. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  rambling  Roses  for 
training  to  trellis  or  on  single  arches,  and  has 
the  good  quality  of  beiug  very  free  from  mildew. 
It  is  a  profuse  bloomer,  and  the  delicate-coloured, 
semi-double  pink  flowers  are  valuable  for  table 
decoration.  The  illustration  is  f rnra  a  photograph 
taken  in  the  gardens  of  Sir  Walter  Sraythe, 
Bart. ,  Acton  Barnett,  Shrewsbury.  J.  C. 

EOSE  EOSETTE  BE  LA  LEGION 
D'HONNEUE. 
This  is  a  Rose  of  peculiar  colour,  viz. ,  carnation 
red,  changing  to  salmon  and  carmine,  with  yellow 
lines  in  the  petals.  It  is  only  semi-double,  but  in 
large  trusses  that  last  well :  very  showy  and  sweet 
scented.  Like  Griiss  an  Teplitz  this  Rose  does 
better  when  established  and  only  slightly  pruned. 
It  is  an  excellent  late-blooming  sort.  A.  P. 


two  seasons  previously.  One  year  in  pots  is  not 
sufficient,  not  even  in  the  case  of  Clierries.  I 
would  prefer  to  have  Peaches,  Nectarines, 
Cherries  and  Plums  of  three  years'  growth  in 
pots  to  ensure  success  in  the  immediate  future. 
The  balls  should  hang  together  firmly  when 
knocked  out  of  the  pots,  the  whole  of  the  soil  being 
permeated  with  roots.  Young  trees,  such  as  are 
of  the  age  indicated,  are  the  best  to  begin  with. 
If  taken  in  hand  thus  early,  trees  of  better  form 
will  be  secured,  their  predisposition  to  over- 
luxuriant  growth  being  more  easily  controlled. 
The  form  of  the  tree  is  optional  to  a  certain 
extent ;  but,  on  the  whole,  upright  trees  will  be 
better  than  those  with  spreading  heads.  Some 
will  in  time,  as  in  our  own  case,  form  themselves 
into  trees  of  standard-like  shape  rather  than  a 
pyramidal  one. 

When  to  Pot. 
With  respect  to  the  time  of  potting,  I  might 
say  that  my  practice  is  to  start  repotting  either 
at  the  end  of  September  or  early  in  October.  We 
start,  as  a  matter  of  course,  with  the  earliest 
forced  trees,  and  continue  until  the  finish.  If  we 
get  finished  by  the  end  of  October  I  am  well 
satisfied.  We  do  not  mind  if  there  are  a  consider- 
able quantity  gf  leaves  upon  the  trees  at  the 


154 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[March  27,  1909. 


time,  so  long  as  they  are  well  matured.   The  earlier 
these  first  early  trees  are  repotted  the  better  in 
every  way  will  they  be.      J.  Hudson,  V.M.H. 
{To  be  continued.) 


COLOURED     PLATE. 

PLATK    1870. 

CHINESE    ASTERS    AND    THEIR 
CULTURE. 

GIVE  a  good  firm  of  seedsmen  a 
wild  flower,  and,  if  it  is  in  any 
way  possible  to  improve  it  or  to 
obtain  variations  of  it,  we  may 
rest  assured  these  experts  will  bring 
such  about  in  a  comparatively 
short  time.  Concrete  examples  of  their 
work  in  these  directions  are  now  afforded 
on  every  hand  in  the  many  beautiful 
florists'  flowers  tha*  adorn  our  gardens 
and  greenhouses,  and  among  the  foremost 
conies  the  so-called  Chinese  Aster,  or 
Callistephus,  as  the  botanist  would  have 
us  call  it.  Certain  it  is  that  we  have  no 
annual  flower  that  is  more  popular, 
excepting  the  Sweet  Pea,  and  there  are 
few  gardens,  however  small,  in  which  at 
least  one  type  is  not  to  be  found.  Nor  is 
this  popularity  surprising  when  we  re- 
member how  easily  the  plants  are 
raised  from  seeds,  the  beautiful  displays 
of  flowers  they  give,  and  the  long  stems 
which  render  the  blossoms  so  eminently 
suitable  for  cutting  for  indoor  decoration. 
Added  to  these  good  features  we  have 
flowers  of  beautiful  forms  and  chaste 
colours,  so  that  the  Chinese  Aster  may  well 
be  a  favourite  with  rich  and  poor  alike. 

The  earliest  plants  are  raised  under 
glass,  a  hot-bed  frame  being  the  best 
place  ;  but  a  cold  frame  even  will  answer 
very  well  or  a  stage  in  the  greenhouse, 
providing  space  can  be  afforded  there.  It 
is  well  to  use  rather  shallow  boxes  or 
pans  as  receptacles,  and  these  must  be 
well  drained  and  filled  with  soil  composed 
of  two  parts  good  loam,  one  part  decayed 
manure  or  leaf-soil  and  one  part  sand, 
the  whole  being  finely  sifted.  Use  the 
rough  portion  for  placing  over  the  crocks 
in  the  bottom  of  the  boxps  or  pans,  and 
then  fill  in  with  the  fine  soil,  so  that  when 
all  is  pressed  moderately  firm  it  is  about 
half  an  inch  below  the  top  of  the  recep- 
tacle. Scatter  the  seeds  very  thinly  and 
then  cover  with  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
of  fine  soil,  water  with  a  fine-rosed  can 
and  place  a  pane  of  glass  or  sheet  of 
brown  paper  over  each  box  or  pan. 

As  soon  as  germination  is  effected,  re- 
move the  glass  or  paper  and  afford  the 
seedlings  all  the  light  possible,  and  also 
air  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Watering 
must  be  very  carefully  done  in  the 
morning,  so  that  moisture  can  dry  up 
before  the  evening,  damp  being  the  worst 
enemy  of  the  seedlings.  When  the  young 
plants  are  about  2  inches  high  they  must 
De  transplanted  to  other  pans  or  boxes, 
choosing  those  for  preference  that  are  at 
least  4  inches  deep.  Use  the  same  kind 
of  soil  as  advised  lor  seed-sowing,  but  do 
not  sift  the  manure  or  leaf-mould,  this 
being  better  if  left  in  a  flaky  condition. 
Set  the  seedlings  3  inches  apart  each  way, 
and  after  the  box  is  finished  give  the  soil 
a  surfacing  of  clean  sand.  Alter  watsring 
stand  in  a  warm  greenhouse  or  frame  until 
well  established  ;  then  gradually  give 
more  air  until  the  plants  are  hard  enough 
to  go  in  the  cold  frame,  from  whence 
they  can  be  transferred  to  their  open 
quarters  about  the  third  week  in  May. 
From  now  until  the  middle  or  end  of  April 
a  sowing  should  be  made  about  every  ten 
days,  after  which  seeds  can  be  sown  in 


the  open.  Plants  from  seeds  sown  outdoors  early 
in  May  frequently  give  a  grand  display  of  flowers 
late  in  the  autumn. 

These  Asters  are  represented ,  by  several  well- 
known  types,  that  known  as  the  Comet  being 
perhaps  the  most  graceful  and  beautiful  of  all, 
the  large,  reflexing  flowers  reminding  one  very 
much  of  Japanese  Chrysanthemums,  as  may  be 
seen  in  the  accompanying  coloured  plate,  the 
splendid  varieties  there  shown  being  raised  by 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons  of  Reading,  and  who 
kindly  supplied  the  blooms  from  which  the 
painting  was  made.  Ostrich  Plume,  Victoria, 
French  P.tony-flowered,  ordinary  single  and 
Ray  Asters  are  all  distinct  types  and  all  have 
their  special  merits,  each  being  obtainable  in  a 
variety  of  colours. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


GOURDS    IN    THE    GARDEN. 

A   PlCTURESQUB   W.iV    OF    UsiNG    THESE   QuAINT 

Fruits. 

THE  great  variety  in  size  and  shape,  as 
well  as  in  the  colouring  of  the  fruits 
of  these  plants,  make  them  valuable 
and  interesting  in  the  garden.     They 
range  in  size  from  the  miniature  Gourd 
of  barely  an  ounce  up  to  the  Mam- 
moth   Pumpkin,    which    grows   to  an  enormous 
size  under  favourable  conditions.     They  are  all 
readily   grown   in   this   country,  and   there   are 
several    ways  of    using  them   with   advantage. 
The  smaller-fruited  forms  are  admirably 
adapted  for  growing  on  low  trellis-work 
or  on  arches.      Others  may  be  used  for 
covering   bare   poles,   as  in   the   accom- 
panying illustration.   For  covering  arbours 
and   providing    shade    with    their   large 
leaves  they  are  very  useful  and  effective, 
with  the    added    attraction    of    various 
shaped  fruits  suspended  from  the  Vines. 

They  may  also  be  grown  on  raised 
mounds  or  banks,  or  even  on  the  level 
ground,  like  the  Vegetable  Marrow.  In 
the  autumn  the  fruits  of  the  smaller  and 
more  ornamental  kinds  when  cut  and 
dried  are  available  for  house  decoration. 
They  remain  in  good  condition  and 
retain  their  colours  for  a  considerable 
time.  Where  heat  is  available  seeds  should 
be  sown  about  the  end  of  April,  and  if 
the  plants  are  potted  on  as  they  require 
it  they  will  make  good  big  specimens  ready 
for  planting  out  in  June.  They  may 
also  be  raised  in  a  cold  frame  by  sowing 
seed  at  the  same  time.  These  plants  will 
not  be  so  large  as  those  raised  in  heat, 
but  they  will  grow  away  quicker  when 
planted  out.  Rich  soil  and  plenty  of 
manure  are  necessary,  with  plenty  of 
water  when  growing.  A  selection  ot  the 
smaller-fruiting  kinds  should  include  the 
Egg  Gourd,  Orange  Gourd,  White  Pear, 
Green  Striped  Pear,  Bicolor  Pear,  Early 
Apple,  Striped  Tomato,  Warted  Gourd 
ana  mixed  miniature  Gourds  of  endless 
shape  and  form.  Among  the  larger  ones 
t  le  most  ornamental  are  the  forms  of 
Turk's  Cap  Gouid,  which  are  rich  in 
colour  and  attain  a  good  size.  Very 
luxuriant  growers  are  the  Siphon  Gourd, 
Bottle  Gourd  and  Hercules  Club  Gourd  ; 
just  the  plants  for  rapidly  covering  a  large 
area  of  trellis-work.  On  account  of  its 
weight  and  size  the  Mammoth  Pumpkin 
requires  to  be  grown  on  the  level  ground. 
One  of  the  most  curious  is  the  Snake 
Gourd  with  its  crooked  fruits. 


THE  QUAINT  snake  GOURD  IN  THE  ROYAL  (iARDBNS,  KEW. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

Germination  of  Seeds. — It  is  good 
to  know  that  seeds,  as  a  rule,  are  ger- 
minating grandly  this  season.  Reports 
from  all  sources  are  excellent,  and  there 
appears  to  be  little  doubt  that  the  average 
of  growth  is  far  higher  than  it  has  been 
during  the  past  two  or  three  years. 
Naturally  enough,  one  does  hear  a  few 
complaints ;  but  investigation  almost  in- 
variably leads  to  the  definite  conclusion 
that  the  failures  are  due  to  errors  of 
management.  Reference  is,  of  course, 
here  made  to  seeds  that  were  sown  in 
pots,  and,  as  far  as  can  be  gleaned,  the 
common  mistake  lies  in  keeping  the  soil 
a  great  deal  too  moist.  That  there  must 
be  moisture  present  is  perfectly  obvious  ; 
but  that  the  compost  should  be  kept 
practically  on  the  verge  of  mud  is  abso- 
lutely wrong.  When  such  conditions  pre- 
vail, some  varieties,    such  as  Etta  l^yke. 


Mauch  27,  1909. 


THE     GAEDEN. 


165 


will  rot,  while  others  will  germinate  only  to  be 
immediately  killed  by  the  wretched  state  of  the 
soil.  It  is  impossible  lo  say  how  often  water  ought 
to  be  given,  as  so  much  depends  upon  the  compost 
used,  its  firmness  in  the  pots  and  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  structure  in  which  the  receptacles 
are  aeeommodated  ;  but  the  rule  should  be  never 
to  apply  water  until  the  soil  is  approaching  dry- 
ness, and  if  this  is  followed  up  failures  will  be 
few.  Some  of  the  varieties  having  mauve  in 
their  colour  are  very  ugly  in  the  seed,  and  the 
plants  are  often  weak  in  starting  ;  but  if  they 
are  carefully  watered  the  seeds  germinate  well, 
and  the  plants  soon  put  on  a  strength  that  is 
nothing  short  of  astonishing  considering  the 
appearance  of  the  seeds  from  which  they  sprans;. 
The  secret  of  success  lies  in  close  attention  to 
details  and  full  consideration  of  all  the  conditions 
that  surround  the  plants. 

Plants  in  Pots. — If  the  seeds  were  placed  in 
a  greenhouse  for  germination,  the  earlier  they 
can  be  placed  in  a  frame  after  the  seedlings 
show  through  the  surface  the  better.  The 
probabilities  of  drawing  will  then  be  consider- 
ably reduced,  and  the  progress  made  will  be  far 
hardier  than  would  be  the  case  in  the  warmer 
structure.  As  much  fresh  air  and  light  as 
possible  must  be  admitted  to  the  plants,  and 
watering  must  have  more  than  usual  care,  as  the 
young  roots  are  tender.  To  keep  saturating 
the  soil  with  cold  water  will  inevitably  mean  that 
many  of  them  will  rot  away,  and  the  plants  that 
remain  will  receive  a  check  at  the  outset,  from 
which  it  is  well  within  the  bounds  of  possibility 
that  they  will  never  fully  recover.  If  the  drainage 
is  right  and  water  is  given  just  before  the  soil  in 
the  pots  becomes  dry,  progress  will  be  un- 
interrupted, and  if  the  plants  do  not  do  as  well 
as  their  grower  thinks  they  ought  to  have 
done,  it  will  not  be  the  fault  of  errors  in 
watering. 

Birds. — When  the  seedlings  have  made  good 
growth,  there  is  no  question  as  to  the  desirability 
of  having  the  lights  off  the  frames  at  practically 
all  times,  except  during  torrential  rains  ;  but  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  that  birds  shall  not  have 
unobstructed  access  to  the  young  plants,  or  it  is 
certain  that  they  will  top  them  beyond  the 
bounds  of  all  reason.  To  circumvent  them,  a 
wooden  framework  of  the  same  size  as  the  light 
should  be  made  and  have  small-meshed  gal- 
vanised wire  nailed  on  to  it ;  then  when  the 
light  is  off  let  its  place  be  occupied  by  the  wire, 
and  the  birds  will  be  barred  admission.  This 
device  is  exceedingly  simple,  inexpensive  and 
most  effectual,  and  shoula  be  regarded  as  an 
essential  accessory  to  successful  Sweet  Pea 
culture  in  frames. 

Slugs. — These  slimy  visitors  will  have  to  be 
reckoned  with,  and  unless  they  too  are  sup- 
pressed one  must  not  look  for  the  most  gratifying 
results  from  the  plants.  Each  evening  it  should 
be  the  invariable  rule  to  go  out  after  dusk  with 
a  lamp  and  search  assiduously  for  the  enemies, 
all  that  can  be  found  being  placed,  with  more  or 
less  care,  but  with  the  utmost  enthusiasm,  into 
a  pot  of  salt ;  after  that  they  will  do  no  further 
damage  either  to  Sweet  Peas  or  anything  else. 
Frequent  light  sprinklings  of  soot  and  lime  will 
also  be  found  advantageous,  but  odd  dressings 
will  do  scarcely  any  good.  Spencer. 


NOTES  ON  ROCK  PLANTS. 
There  is  no  season  in  the  year  more  pregnant  of 
possibilities  for  future  success  than  the  present 
and  especially  does  this  apply  to  those  dwarf 
perennial  plants  and  bulbs  which  we  invariably 
regard  as  denizens  of  the  rook  garden.  It  will 
be  found  at  this  season  that  with  nearly  every 
occupant  of  the  rock  garden  some  displacement  of 
the  soil  has  occurred  during  the  winter,  thereby 
e.Kposing  the  crowns,  rootstock  and,  in  some 
instances,  the  roots  to  the  drying  influence  of 
sun  and  air,  or  some,  notably  Primulas,  will  be 
entirely  out  of  the  ground.  In  the  latter  in- 
stance   replanting    is    imperative ;    but   in    the 


majority  of  oases  top-dressing  alone  is  necessary. 
This  in  practice  consists  of  working  in  fine,  rich 
soil,  crushed  chalk  or  stone  chips,  as  the  case 
may  be,  among  the  branches  and  crowns, 
having  first  pressed  the  plants  back  into  the 
ground  and  made  the  soil  perfectly  firm  around 
them. 

At  this  season,  too,  we  have  good  reason  to  look 
up  all  these  diminutive  treasures,  particularly 
those  of  a  deciduous  character.  When  vacancies 
occur,  no  time  is  more  opportune  than  the  pre- 
sent to  make  good  these  deficiencies,  and  in  like 
degree  now  is  the  time  to  add  to  or  increase  our 
collections,  as  the  plants  will  have  every  chance 
of  establishing  themselves  before  flowering, 
and  in  every  ease  they  will  be  perfectly 
inured  to  local  conditions  before  the  following 
winter. 

For  several  reasons  it  is  often  advisable  to 
leave  vacancies  for  the  sowing  or  planting  of 
annual  and  biennial  species  later  in  the  spring  ; 
Portulaeas  and  Mesembryanthemums  if  put  out 
as  small  plants  in  June  will  bring  a  degree  of 
interest  and  wealth  of  blossom  to  the  rock 
garden  in  autumn  that  few  other  plants  can 
equal,  and  as  both  succeed  under  the  most  trying 
conditions,  such  as  upon  hot,  sandy  slopes,  their 
value  in  this  respect  can  scarcely  be  overrated. 
We  have  also  dainty  annual  subjects  in  Saxi- 
fraga  Cymbalaria  and  Sedum  ciuruleum,  both 
very  beautiful  when  self-sown  in  the  mimic 
walls    of     a    rock    garden.       A    beautiful    and 


sun.  Androsaee  filiformis,  A.  septentrionalis 
and  Saxifraga  mutata  are  each  interesting  if  less 
showy  than  some  allied  species. 

Every  rock  garden  intelligently  planted,  with 
the  primary  object  of  giving  pleasure  to  its 
owner,  will  include  selections  of  the  commoner 
and  easily  grown  species  and  varieties,  as  by 
employing  these  we  captivate  and  draw  the  in- 
terest ;  then,  if  the  whims  and  fancies  of  the 
rarer  plants  are  carefully  catered  for,  these  will, 
upon  closer  inspection,  invariably  deepen  this 
interest  and  awaken  enthusiasm. 

Among  the  good  things  which  amateurs  will 
never  regret  adding  to  their  collections  are  the 
following  :  Anemone  alpina,  large  white  flowers, 
pencilled  slate  on  the  reverse  ;  A-  sulphurea,  the 
yellow  form  of  alpina,  will  not  succeed  in  lime  ; 
A.  vernalis,  downy  stems  and  lilac  white  flowers, 
needs  same  soil  as  sulphurea ;  Campanula  barbata, 
pale  blue  pendulous  blossoms  ;  C.  pulla,  dwarf 
purple  bells,  will  not  succeed  in  lime ;  C.  puUoides, 
a  very  rare  plant,  large  purple  bells  ;  C.  Zoysii, 
dwarf,  distinct  pale  blue  flowers,  contracted  at 
mouth;  Edrainthus (Wahlenbergia)  serpyllifolius, 
upturned  purple  bells,  tiny  Thyme-like  leaves  ; 
E.  pumilio,  silvery  foliage,  upturned  violet 
purple  bells  :  Daphne  blagayana,  creamy  fragrant 
flowers  in  clustered  heads,  no  lime  ;  Omphalodes 
Luoilia-,  glaucous  grey  leaves  and  lovely  blue 
flowers  ;  Oxalis  enneaphylla,  rose-white  flowers 
nestling  among  glaucous  leaves,  no  lime  ;  Litho- 
spermum  graminifolium,  pendent  blue  flowers  on 


A   FLOOD  OF   FLOWKRS  IN   MAY-TIME. 


brave  little  annual  is |  Meconopsis  heterophylla, 
which  enjoys  a  cool,  stony  root-run  among  rock 
plants  ;  the  flowers  are  Poppy-like  and  of  a  rich 
shade  of  orange,  each  petal  having  a  purple 
blotch  at  the  base.  The  growth  is  extremely 
slender  ;  the  flower-stems  under  the  best  con- 
ditions attain  a  height  of  18  inches,  and  when 
cut  last  from  four  to  six  days  in  water.  Among 
other  choice  annuals  for  this  position  is  Asperula 
azurea  setosa,  a  charming  little  blue-flowered 
Woodruft';  Anagallis,  blue,  an  annual  with 
flowers  as  blue  as  the  Gentianella ;  and 
lonopsidium  acaule,  the  Portuguese  Violet 
Cress,  having  lilac  or  pale  lavender  flowers. 
Biennial  species  will  include  Silene  Armeria,  a 
rich  crimson  flower  produced  in  flattish  heads  on 
stems  varying  in  height  from  9  inches  to 
18  inches,  and  best  suited  in  poor,  stony  soil  in  the 


arching 'stems  ;  Geutiana  verna,  brilliant  blue'on 
single  stems,  jthe  finest  spring  species  ;  ^G. 
septemfida,  crowded  heads  of  bright  blue  in 
autumn  ;  Saxifraga  Boydii,  tufted  growth,  large 
lemon  flowers  in  spring  :  S.  B.  alba,  equally  free 
in  growth,  flowers  white  ;  S.  burseriana,  tufted 
Juniper-like  growth  and  large  chaste  white 
flowers  ;  S.  b.  major,  a  finer  and  exalted  form  of 
the  type  ;  and  S.  Salomonii,  tufted,  as  in  the 
former,  taller  stems,  flowers  in  two  or  three.  All 
the  preceding  are  among  the  most  fascinating  and 
beautiful  of  all  hardy  plants,  and  are  worth 
growing  in  any  rock  garden.  Of  course  the 
list  might  be  very  much  extended,  and  it  is 
difiioult  to  make  a  selection  when  the  material 
to  select  from  is  so  plentiful  and  good. 

Thomas  Smith. 
Walmagate  Gardens,  Louth,  Lines. 


156 


THE     GARDEN. 


[March  27,  1909. 


QARDENING      FOR      'BEGINNERS. 


GAEDKN  WORK  WEEK  BY   WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Now  is  an  ex- 
cellent time  to  plant  Gladioli,  and  no 
garden  should  be  without  at  least  a 
few  of  these  beautiful  bulbous  plants, 
the  flowers  of  which  are  so  welcome 
in  the  autumn,  both  for  garden  deco- 
ration and  for  the  house  in  a  cut  state.  The 
beginner  will  not  often  be  able  or  willing  to  devote 
a  whole  bed  to  them,  but  a  few  clumps  may  with 
advantage  be  accommodated  in  the  border,  about 
five  corms  forming  a  good-sized  clump.  They 
like  a  deeply  worked,  well-enriched  soil  and  an 
open  position,  and  unless  they  can  be  given  these 
it  is  of  little  use  to  attempt  their  culture.  In 
planting,  make  a  hole  about  IS  inches  in 
diameter  and  5  inches  deep  ;  place  a  1  inch  thick 
layer  of  sand  in  the  bottom,  and  then  arrange 
the  corma  from  b  inches  to  !l  inches  apart  on  this, 
after  which  sprinkle  more  sand  over  them  and 
fill  in  with  soil.  .  The  positions  where  they 
are  planted  should  be  plainly  marked,  so  that 
there  will  be  no  fear  of  their  being  disturbed. 
The  pruning  of  Roses  will,  now,  or  shortly, 
demand  attention,  but  as  this  operation  is  so 
frequently  dealt  with  elsewhere  in  The  Garden, 
a  reminder  only  is  necessary  here.  Commence 
with  the  hardiest  varieties,  such  as  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  Rugosas  and  Briars  first,  and  leave 
the  Teas  until  the  first  or  second  week  in  April. 

Vtgetahle  Ganlcn. — A  good  planting  of  an  early 
Potato  may  now  be  made,  especially  if  the 
tubers  have  been  e.xposed  to  light  and  sprouted 
as  advised  some  time  ago.  This  year  I  am  grow- 
ing Midlothian  Early,  a  splendid  white  kidney, 
raised,  I  believe,  by  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.  of 
Rothesay.  This  conies  into  bearing  very  quickly, 
and  is  of  excellent  quality.  The  most  sheltered 
portion  of  the  garden  should  be  selected  for  this 
crop.  Plant  in  drills  18  inches  apart,  and  place 
the  tubers  about  9  inches  asunder  in  the  rows  ; 
late  crops  of  stronger-growing  varieties  will 
require  more  room  than  advised  for  this  early 
planting.  I  prefer  to  take  out  a  hole  for  each 
set  with  the  spade  ;  if  a  dibber  is  used,  especially 


^ 


I. — A    SUITABLE    STOCK    TDK    CLEFT     GRA1?TIN(! 
AND   TWO  SCIONS  FOE  INSERTING  THBBEIN. 


if  it  be  sharply  pointed,  the  Potato  does  not  go 
to  the  bottom  of  the  hole,  and  in  soils  of  a  clayey 
nature  the  sides  of  the  hole  are  solidified  so  that 
roots  have  a  difficulty  in  spreading.  Six  inches 
is  a  good  depth  to  plant.  For  the  outdoor  crop 
of  Tomatoes  seeds  may  now  be  sown  under  glass, 
and  if  given  good  treatment  and  grown  on  near 
the  glass,  the  plants  will  be  of  excellent  size  for 
planting  out  the  first  week  in  June.  It  is 
essential  that  the  plants  do  not  receive  a 
check  to  growth,  and  for  this  reason  the}'  must 
not  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of  water  nor 
become  root-bound  in  their  pots.  Carter's 
lianrise  and  Sutton's  Open  Air  are  two  good 
varieties  for  outdoor  culture. 

Fruit  Garden. — Where  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
are  flowering  on  walls  it  will  be  necessary  to  give 
the  flowers  some  protection  from  cold  winds  and 
also  from  frosts  at  night.  A  double  thick- 
ness of  old  fish-netting  suspended  in  front  of  the 
trees  usually  suffices  ;  but  it  must  be  so  fixed 
that  it  does  not  come  into  contact  with  the 
blooms,  or  they  will  be  bruised  and  damaged  if 
winds  prevail.  Plantations  of  Raspberries  may 
be  successfully  made  now,  but  all  newly 
planted  canes,  whether  put  in  last  autumn  or 
now,  should  be  out  down  to  within  6  inches  of 
the  soil  ;  by  doing  this,  strong  young  canes  tor 
fruiting  next  year  will  be  encouraged  to  grow 
from  the  bases  of  the  plants. 

Oreenhonne  and  Frames.  —  Gloxinias  and 
Achimenes  that  have  been  resting  during  the 
winter  will  now,  or  shortly,  be  starting  into 
growth  and  will  need  attention  in  the  way  of 
repotting.  Shake  the  tubers  out  of  the  old  soil 
and  repot  in  fresh  material,  composed  of  loam 
and  peat,  one  part  each,  and  silver  sand  half  a 
part.  Where  peat  cannot  be  obtained,  decayed 
leaf-soil,  or  dried,  flaky  manure  may  be  substi- 
tuted. The  Gloxinias  may  be  repotted  at  once 
into  pots,  those  4|  inches  or  6  inches  in  diameter, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  tubers,  being  gene- 
rally the  best  sizes  to  employ.  Place  the  tubers 
so  that  the  top  of  each  is  just  below  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  one  tuber  to  each  pot.  Achimenes 
I  prefer  to  start  in  shallow  boxes  or  pans  ;  then 
when  the  shoots  are  1  inch  or  rather  more 
long,  transfer  them  to  their  flowering  pots  or 
baskets.  Where  the  latter  are  used  some  of  the 
plants  should  have  their  tops  pushed  through  the 
bars  at  the  side,  as  by  so  doing  a  well-clothed 
basket  is  secured.  Repotting  will  now  be  in  full 
swing,  and  care  in  watering,  as  advised  a  few 
weeks  ago,  will  be  particularly  called  for.  All 
established  bedding  plants  in  frames  will  need 
more  air  every  day,  as  it  is  absolutely  essential 
that  their  tissues  be  well  hardened  before  they 
are  planted  outdoors.  H. 

PROPAGATION  OF  FRUIT  TREES  BY 

CLEFT  GRAFTING. 
Tongue,  or  whip,  grafting  and  crown  grafting 
have  both  been  dealt  with  in  earlier  issues,  and 
in  the  present  instance  it  is  our  desire  to  call 
attention  to  what  is  known  as  cleft  grafting,  which, 
although  the  method  is  different  from  either  of 
those  already  described  in  detail  on  former 
occasions,  may  be  accomplished  with  equal 
ease  and  satisfaction.  Cleft  grafting  may  be 
adopted  in  the  ease  of  all  stocks  more  than 
1  inch  in  diameter,  so  that  where  tongue,  or  whip, 
grafting  could  not  be  carried  out  satisfactorily, 
because  the  stocks  were  inconveniently  large, 
it  is  most  useful.  It  is  possible,  of  course,  to 
operate  on  the  main  stem  of  the  tree,  but  the 
results  would  be  far  more  satisfactory  were  the 
operator  to  shorten  back  the  main  branches  to 
within  about  1  foot  or   16  inches  of   the  main 


trunk  of  the  tree,  working  two  scions  on  each 
branch,  or  alternating  cleft  grafting  with  crown 
grafting  on  these,  and  in  this  way  bring  into 
effect  a  tree  with  a  good  head  that  should  yield 
a  supply  of  fruits  within  two  or  three  years  of 
being  grafted. 

In  Fig.  1  is  a  representative  portion  of  a  stock 
that  is  suitable  for  cleft  grafting.  On  either  side 
of  the  stock  are  to  be  seen  scions  of  the  variety 
we  wish  to  graft  on  the  available  stock.  A 
careful  scrutiny  of  the  stock  reveals  the  fact  that 
this  is  cut  straight  through  in  as  clean  and  neat 
a  fashion  as  possible.  For  cleft  grafting  the  scions 
should  be  growths  that  are  two  years  old  or 
more,  by  which  time  they  should  be  about  as 
stout  as  one's  finger.     What  is  of  considerable 


2.— METHOD  or  PREPABINO  THE  STOCK  AND 
SCIONS.  NOTE  THE  CLKFT  IN  THE  STOCK 
AND  THE  WEDGE  SHAPE  TO  WHICH  THE 
LOWER  PORTIONS  OF  TlIK  SCIONS  HAVE 
BEEN   CUT. 

importance  is  that  the  scions  should  be  perfectly 
healthy  and  of  nice,  clean  growth,  and  they 
should  have  two  to  three  promising  buds  clear 
above  the  stock  when  adjusted  in  position. 

Fig.  2  illustrates  how  both  stock  and  scions 
should  be  treated.  We  will  first  consider  the 
stock,  and  will  require  the  aid  of  a  stout  chisel 
and  mallet  to  achieve  our  object.  The  oleft  is 
made  right  across  the  stem,  in  the  centre  as  near 
as  possible,  and  the  opening  made  sufficiently 
deep  to  enable  the  operator  to  insert  the  scions 
with  comparative  ease.  The  illustration  in  the 
centre  of  this  figure  aptly  portrays  the  nature  of 
the  cleft  and  where  it  should  be  made.  That 
the  scions  may  be  properly  adjusted  in  position 
it  will  be  necessary  to  leave  the  chisel  in  the 
centre  of  the  cleft,  and  after  they  are  inserted  it 
may  be  withdrawn.  In  this  same  figure  we  have 
endeavoured  to  make  quite  clear  how  the  scions 
should  be  prepared.  A  good  length  for  a  scion 
is  about  6  inches  ;  those  in  the  illustration  ace 
rather  longer.  On  the  left  of  the  picture  the 
manner  of  preparing  the  scion  is  clearly  por- 
trayed. It  is  out  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  and 
the  cut  is  some  2  inches  to  .3  inches  in  length. 
It  is  important  to  make  the  out  rather  thinner  on 
the  inner  side  of  the  scion,  as  this  assists  to  make 
a  closer  contact  between  scion  and  stock  where 
they  join  on  the  outer  edge.  The  scion  should 
be  thinner  opposite  to  the  bud.     On  the  right  of 


March  27,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


157 


posi- 

illus- 
the 


the  illustration 
in  Fig.  2  it  is 
clearly  por- 
trayed how  the 
wedge  -  shaped 
cut  should  be 
made.  All  is 
then  ready  for 
adjusting  the 
scions  in 
tion. 

Fig.  3 
t  r  a  t  es 
scions  properly 
inserted  in  the 
cleft  made  for 
their  reception, 
and  the  careful 
carrying  out  of 
this  work  is  of 
the  utmost  im- 
portance. What 
must  be  ensured 
is  the  close  eon- 
tact  of  the  bark 
of  the  scion 
with  the  bark 
of  the  stock 
where  the  two 
join  in  the  cleft. 
Unless  this  can 
be  done,  it  is 
useless  to  ex- 
pect the  results 
to  equal  our  ex- 
pectations. At  this  point  it  is  well  to  bear  in  mind 
that  if  the  branch  operated  on  be  of  a  bending 
nature,  one  graft  only  should  be  inserted,  and  this 
on  the  upper  side  ;  if,  on  the  other  liand,  the 
branch  be  upright  in  character,  as  depicted  in  the 
illustration,  two  scions  may  be  inserted  quite 
satisfactorily.  Note  the  even  finish  of  the 
adjustment  of  the  scion  and  stock. 

When  the  scions  are  fixed  in  position,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  3,  they  must  be  made  perfectly 
secure  by  being  carefully  tied.  For  this  purpose 
they  are  tightly  bound  round  with  stout  rafRa  or 
bast,  or  where  tarred  twine  of  a  soft  nature  can 
be  obtained,  this  should  be  used  in  preference  to 
all  other  material,  as  it  stands  the  weather  better 
and  is  more  reliable. 

The  tying  being  completed,  the  cleft  should  be 
completely  covered  with  the  grafting  wax  as 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  Not  only  should  the  top  of  the 
cleft  be  covered  with  this  mastic,  but  down  both 
sides  too,  applying  the  material  as  low  down  as 
the  stock  is  split.  An  air-tight  condition  of  the 
graft  must  be  ensured,  and  then  we  have  little 
fear  for  the  results.  1).  B.  C. 


-THE  SCIONS  ADJUSTED  IN 
POSITION. 


SEAKALE    FOR    AMATEURS. 

While  it  is  a  fact  that  few  winter  vegetables 
are  more  acceptable  when  well  cooked  and 
served  to  table  than  Seakale,  and  few,  indeed, 
furnish  a  greater  amount  of  real  food  from  a 
limited  space,  yet  its  culture  is  little  under- 
stood or  practised  by  amateur  gardeners,  and 
really  not  infrequently  by  a  large  section  of  pro- 
fessional gardeners.  A  plot  of  ground,  which  is 
16i  feet  square,  is  but  a  small  plot,  after  all, 
in  any  ordinary  garden  ;  but  it  suffices  to  pro- 
duce, if  at  the  proper  season  planted  with  root- 
euttings,  about  200  roots,  which  will,  when 
gently  forced  in  the  winter,  give  an  equal 
number  of  heads,  and  thus  provide  some  twenty 
excellent  dishes  of  delicious  vegetable  matter. 
If  a  rod  of  ground  seems  too  much  for  an 
amateur,  then  be  content  with  half  that  area. 
The  first  thing  to  be  done,  and  done  at  once,  is 
to  have  the  allotted  ground  trenched  2  feet  in 
depth,  burying  down  and  mixing  with  the  lower 
soil  a  liberal  dressing  of  half-decayed  manure, 
then  gi\'ing  to  the  top  soil  a  further  dressing  of 
the  same  and  forking  that  in.  Ground  so  treated 
will  grow  Seakale  finely  and,  after  the  roots 
are   lifted    in   the   winter,  Peas   or   Beans    also 


well  without  any  additional  manuring.  Then 
the  stock  of  roots  has  to  be  obtained.  This, 
at  the  first,  may  be  done  by  purchasing,  if 
possible,  enough  root-cuttings  of  Seakale,  100 
for  half  a  rod,  and  double  that  number  for  a 
full  rod.  Failing  to  obtain  these,  seed  can 
be  purchased  and  sown,  half  a  pint  or  a  pint 
costing  very  little.  Both  planting  or  sowing 
may  be  best  done  early  in  April,  in  drills 
20  inches  apart  for  the  seed,  or  in  rows  of  the 
same  distance  apart  for  root  -  cuttings.  For 
seed  the  depth  should  be  2  inches.  The  seeds 
are  generally  sold  in  their  shells,  which  take  a 
little  time  to  soften  in  the  soil,  hence  some  four 
weeks  elapse  before  the  seedling  plants  are  well 
up.  When  all  have  grown,  it  will  be  wise  to 
thin  out  the  seedlings  to  12  inches  apart  in  the 
rows,  thus  giving  ample  room  for  root  develop- 
ment and  leaf  spreading. 

During  the  season,  especially  if  a  couple  of 
thin  sprinklings  of  salt  or  nitrate  of  soda  be 
given  in  .June  and  .July  and  well  hoed  in,  the 
weeds  being  rigidly  kept  down,  the  strong 
leafage  from  the  plant  covers  the  soil  and  thus 
assists  root  and  growth.  In  the  late  autumn  the 
leafage  dies  away,  and  after  that,  at  any  time, 
the  roots  may  be  lifted  and  prepared  for  forcing 
by  hard  cutting  off  all  side  or  branch  roots, 
using  these  to  make  root-cuttings  for  the  follow- 
ing year,  the  main  roots  and  crowns  being  laid 
in  thickly  and  erect  in  loose  soil,  from  whence 
during  the  winter  they  can  be  taken  and  put  into 
a  dark  place  in  warmth  to  have  blanched  heads 
for  eating.  As  the  basal  or  branch  roots  are  cut 
off,  all  should  be  laid  one  way,  the  portions  out 
from  the  main  roots  being  uppermost.  Then  the 
making  into  cuttings  is  simple.  These  should 
be  5  inches  in  length,  having  on  the  top  end 
a  clean,  level  cut  and  on  the  bottom  end 
a  slanting  cut,  thus  enabling  the  planter 
to  place  the  right  end  upwards  in  the  holes. 
These  may  be  made  12  inches  apart  in  the  rows 
by  a  hand-dibber  and  be  deep  enough  to  allow 
the  tops  of  the  cuttings  to  be  just  covered  with 
a  little  soil.  If  the  ground  is  ready,  the  planting 
may  be  done  at  any  time  :  but  generally,  as 
this  work  of  lifting  the  crop  of  roots  and  trim- 
ming them  is  done  in  November  or  December, 
the  ground  for  the  reception  of  the  cuttings  may 
not  have  been  prepared.  In  that  case  the  root- 
cuttings  should  be  placed  thickly  in  a  furrow 
6  inches  deep,  standing  them  erect  and  filling  up 
close  with  loose  soil.  There  they  may  remain  till 
the  early  spring,  then  be  planted.  A.  D. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

Pruning  Roses. — It  is  the  better  policy  to  leave 
the  work  of  Rose  tree  pruning  until  the  end  of 
March  in  town  gardens,  and  so  escape  late  frosts, 
a  fog-laden  atmosphere  and  some  of  the  cold 
east  winds,  than  to  do  the  work  early  in  the 
month  and  so  subject  the  new  shoots  to  the 
above-mentioned  adverse  conditions.  It  is  not 
possible  to  give  detailed  instructions  as  to  the 
right  way  of  pruning  individual  varieties 
in  each  section  in  this  column,  but  I  will 
give  some  general  hints  which  will  be  helpful. 
The  amateur  Rose  -  grower  takes  a  great 
pride  in  doing  his  own  pruning,  and  when 
he  has  had  some  experience  and  hardened 
his  heart  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  will  be  pruned 
much  more  severely  than  formerly.  Of  course, 
the  stronger-growing  varieties  must  not  be 
pruned  so  severely  as  those  of  less  robust  growth 
even  in  this  section,  because  the  resultant  young 
shoots  would  gain  unduly  in  strength,  so  we 
leave  four  or  six  buds  at  the  base  of  the  strong 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  two  or  three  at  the  base 
of  the  branches  of  the  weaker-growing  varieties. 
Hybrid  Tea  Roses  must  not  be  pruned  quite  so 
far  back  as  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  and  the  Teas 
must  be  duly  thinned  out  so  as  to  prevent 
overcrowding.  Where  the  latter  are  trained 
on  walls,   pergolas,   arches  and  pillars,  all  the 


very  weak  shoots  ought  to  be  cut  out  from 
their  base,  a  few  others  also  if  they  appear  to 
be  very  much  crowded  together,  and  one  or  two 
fairly  strong  branches  may  be  cut  ofif  near  their 
base,  so  as  to  induce  the  growth  of  a  few  very 
strong  basal  shoots  to  renew  the  vigour  of  the 
tree  again.  Where  Teas  and  climbing  Roses, 
such  as  the  Crimson  Rambler,  contain  a  number 
of  old  branches  and  only  a  few  young  ones, 
remove  the  old  ones  entirely  and  retain  the 
young  shoots  intact  ;  also  retain  the  young 
sucker-like  shoots  of  Moss  Roses. 

Top-dressing  Roses. — Newly  planted  Roses 
must  be  top-dressed  before  the  soil  becomes  dry 
on  the  surface.  The  half-rotted  manure  is  put 
on  to  prevent  dry  winds  reaching  the  roots  as 
well  as  to  maintain  the  surface  soil  in  a  moist  con- 
dition. The  cultivator  ought  to  guard  against 
over-dryness  of  the  soil  round  the  roots  of 
recently  planted  specimens,  as  the  latter  require 
all  the  help  that  can  possibly  be  given  them. 
Old  bushes  well  estabhshed  in  the  beds  must 
also  receive  attention  as  regards  surface  mulch- 
ings, and  wall-trained  trees  especially  need  the 
assistance  of  top-dressings. 

Violet  Plants  in  Frames.— The  plants  will 
be  flowering  freely  now,  and  every  care  must  be 
taken  to  keep  them  strong  and  healthy.  In 
town  gardens  this  is  a  more  difficult  matter  than 
in  country  districts,  on  account  of  the  fogs  and, 
in  some  instances,  the  fumes  from  chemical 
works,  but  air  must  be  admitted  freely  every 
fine  day,  and  during  the  night  also.  Remove 
the  glass  lights  entirely  on  sunny  days  and  when 
the  atmosphere  is  clear.  It  should  be  remembered 
that  a  stock  of  runners  must  be  secured  in  a  few 
weeks'  time  for  future  use,  and  they  must  be 
strong,  too,  so  that  free  ventilation  will  greatly 
benefit  them  as  well  as  the  old  plants  and  their 
flower-buds.  Keep  the  soil  loose  on  the  surface 
and  apply  water  more  frequently  than  in  the 
depth  of  winter.  The  soil  near  the  outside  of 
the  bed  gets  dry  sooner  than  that  in  the  centre, 
and  it  will  be  necessary  to  water  the  outer 
portion  of  the  bed  more  often  than  the  central. 

Hardv  Annuals.  —  The  time  will  soon 
come  when  all  kinds  of  hardy  annuals  must  be 
raised  from  seeds  sown  in  the  open  border. 
There  ought  not  to  be  much  difficulty  in  getting 
a  good  seed-bed,  as  the  soil  dries  quickly  now. 
There  must  be  no  attempt  at  smoothing 
down  the  sur- 
face of  the 
border  soil  at 
the  present 
time ;  this  work 
must  be  left 
until  the  time 
of  the  actual 
sowing  of  the 
seeds.  The 
cu  1  tivator 
ought  now  to 
dig  up  any  por- 
tion of  the  bor- 
ders that  has 
not  as  yet  been 
so  treated ;  and 
furthermore,  a 
quantity  of 
well  -  rotted 
manure  must  be 
well  mi.xed  with 
the  soil,  but 
leave  the  top 
3  inches  free 
from  manure. 
Then  the  seeds 
will  germinate 
in  a  suitable 
medium,  and 
the  resultant 
seedlings  will 
quickly  benefit 
from  the 
enriched  soil        4— the  scions  tied  in  and  the 

t    ,  A  ,,„„  JUNCTION    PARTLY    COVERED 

OeiOW.     AXON.  WITH  GRAFTING   WAX. 


158 


THE    GARDEN. 


[March  27,  1909 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOB    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Indoor     Fruit. 

VINERIES. — Houses  in  which  Vines  are 
at  the  flowering  stage  should  have  a 
night  temperature  of  70°  and  a  little 
less  on  cold  nights  in  preference  to 
very  hard  firing.  Keep  the  atmo- 
sphere drier  until  the  blooming 
period  is  past.  The  flowers  should  be  carefully 
fertilised  about  midday  by  giving  the  trellises  a 
good  shaking  and  carefully  drawing  the  hand 
very  lightly  over  the  bunches.  Those  who  do 
not  care  to  venture  the  latter  method  may 
employ  a  rabbit's  tail,  this  being  tied  to  a 
small  Bamboo  cane  and  gently  drawn  over  the 
flowers  daily  till  the  berries  have  set.  Any 
Grapes  requiring  thinning  must  not  be  neglected 
but  thinned  early,  when  the  work  is  more 
quickly  got  over.  Large,  unshapely  bunches  may 
be  trimmed  a  little  into  shape  to  give  the  whole 
a  more  uniform  appearance  and  also  to  encour- 
age the  size  of  the  individual  berries. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines. — When  the  fruits 
have  set  and  are  going  through  their  first 
swelling,  remove  a  portion  of  the  smallest  fruit, 
aiming  as  far  as  possible  to  preserve  those  on  the 
upper  sides  of  the  shoots  so  that  they  may 
benefit  by  the  sun  at  a  later  period.  It  is 
preferable  to  remove  a  few  at  intervals,  and 
finally  reduce  to  the  quantity  which  the  trees 
are  intended  to  mature  just  previous  to  the 
atoning  period.  Keep  pace  with  the  disbudding 
until  only  those  growths  required  for  filling  up 
space  and  for  the  following  year's  fruiting  are 
left.  Tying  the  young  shoots  when  only  a  few 
inches  long  must  not  be  overlooked.  One  tie 
about  '2  inches  from  the  base  to  encourage  a 
straight  growth  will  be  ample  for  the  present. 
KiTCHBN  Garden. 
Tomato  Plants  growing  in  5-inch  or  6-inch  pots, 
and  which  have  filled  the  soil  with  roots,  may 
now  be  transferred  to  their  fruiting  pots.  The 
soil  for  this  crop  need  not  be  of  the  richest 
nature,  a  good  sweet  loam,  burnt  earth  and  a 
quantity  of  Mushroom  manure  being  suitable. 
See  that  the  drainage  is  ample  and  pot  firmly, 
leaving  a  few  inches  for  top-dressing  after  the 
fruits  are  set.  Be  careful  not  to  over-water  until 
the  roots  have  well  filled  the  pots.  Younger 
plants  may  be  repotted  before  the  soil  gets  too 
crowded  with  roots,  and  more  seed  should  be 
sown  to  produce  plants  for  growing  in  the  open. 
There  are  many  of  the  more  choice  varieties 
equally  suitable  for  outside  work,  providing  the 
plants  are  grown  on  to  a  good  size  and  duly 
hardened  before  putting  them  out  early  in  June. 
Cticumbers. — When  these  have  grown  a  few 
joints  above  the  lower  wire  of  the  trellis  the 
leader  may  be  pinched  to  encourage  side  growths, 
and  as  these  extend  they  may  be  similarly 
treated.  Overcrowding  should  be  avoided.  Crop 
very  sparingly  till  the  plants  are  strong  enough 
to  bear  the  strain.  Top-dress  at  intervals  those 
which  are  more  advanced  and  feed  liberally 
with  manure  water,  especially  when  the  roots 
are  rather  restricted.  Sow  more  seed  to  raise 
plants  for  cooler  structures  in  succession  to 
those  which  have  been  fruiting  during  the 
winter. 

Plants  under  Glass. 
Begonia  Qloire  de  Lorraine.  — Cuttings  of  these 
when  ready  should  be  planted.  Use  clean,  well- 
drained  pots  filled  with  a  rather  peaty  mixture 
and  plenty  of  sand.  Young,  rather  sappy 
pieces  springing  up  from  the  base  of  the  old 
plants  will  root  freely  and,  with  due  attention, 
make  good  flowering  plants  by  the  end  of  the 
summer.  Begonia  nitida  and  several  other  fibrous 
varieties  may  also  be  propagated  at  this  season 
and  will  develop   into  useful  plants   for  winter 


flowering.  Use  plenty  of  sand  in  the  mixture 
for  all  the  cuttings  of  these  plants,  and  also 
when  they  are  increased  by  means  of  leaves. 

Pot  Up  more  Gloxinias  and  start  them  in  a 
warm,  moist  temperature.  Use  good  peat, 
charcoal,  sand  and  a  little  fibrous  loam.  Young 
seedlings  will  need  to  be  pricked  off  as  soon  as 
they  are  large  enough  to  handle,  otherwise  they 
may  damp  off  in  the  seed-pans.  All  seedlings 
must  receive  attention  at  this  important  stage  of 
growth.  Seedling  plants  just  appearing  above 
the  soil  will  be  all  the  better  if  a  little  dry  sand 
is  lightly  sprinkled  among  them.  This  keeps 
the  tiny  roots  more  firm  and  free  from  exposure 
to  air.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotluxm  Park  Gardens,  Baniet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Veubtaele    Garden. 

Seakale. — Where  lifting  the  roots  of  this 
highly  esteemed  vegetable  is  practised,  a  few 
should  be  placed  in  warmth  about  every  ten 
days  to  maintain  the  supply  of  usable  produce. 
A  temperature  ranging  from  50°  to  60°  is  ample  at 
this  season,  hence  the  Mushroom-house  generally 
affords  suitable  accommodation.  Before  surplus 
roots  commence  to  grow  naturally,  they  should 
be  inserted  a  few  inches  apart  in  a  border  having 
a  north  aspect  in  such  a  manner  that  pots  or 
boxes  can  be  placed  over  them,  and  all  covered 
with  leaves  or  litter  to  exclude  light  and  frost, 
thus  prolonging  the  supply  considerably. 

Plantinij  Seakale  Thonys. — These  selected  and 
prepared  some  time  ago  may  now  be  planted  in 
lines  2  feet  apart,  with  rather  less  space  between 
them  in  the  row.  A  deeply  worked,  well- 
manured  soil  is  necessary  to  produce  good  crowns, 
and  to  ensure  success  in  many  districts  the  plants 
require  two  seasons'  growth  before  being  lifted 
for  forcing.  The  thongs,  having  been  kept  in 
moist  soil  or  ashes,  will  now  be  moving  at  both 
root  and  top.  Their  insertion  in  the  soil  is  best 
accomplished  by  means  of  the  dibber,  the  crown 
being  left  slightly  below  the  surface,  and  if 
covered  with  a  handful  of  coal-ashes  slugs  and 
frost  will  both  be  guarded  against.  The  more 
laborious  practice  of  covering  the  crowns  where 
grown,  and  placing  around  large  quantities  of 
fermenting  material  to  induce  growth,  is  less  in 
favour  than  formerly.  Excellent  produce,  how- 
ever, is  obtained  by  this  method,  and  a  less  bulk 
of  material  is  now  required  than  earlier  to  attain 
the  desired  end. 

Horsi  radish  finds  a  regular  demand,  and  to 
grow  large,  straight  roots  a  new  bed  should  be 
formed  each  year  by  trenching  two  spades  deep 
and  putting  a  good  supply  of  strong  manure 
beneath.  To  obtain  planting  thongs,  dig  over  a 
portion  of  an  established  bed  and  select  there- 
from the  requisite  number  of  long,  slender 
rootlets,  with  a  crown  attached  to  each  if 
possible.  Plant  these  at  15  inches  apart  every 
way  in  the  same  manner  as  advised  for  Seakale. 

Celery,  Chicory,  Salsify  or  other  root  crops 
of  last  year,  if  still  where  grown,  might  with 
advantage  be  raised  to  check  any  tendency  to 
growth,  and  be  relaid  in  soil  in  some  cool, 
sheltered  position  in  readiness  for  use. 

Flower  Beds  and  Borders. 
Gladioli  corms  may  now  be  planted,  using 
some  good  soil  or  sand  (sea  sand  is  preferred) 
around  each  corm,  which,  when  finished,  should 
not  be  less  than  4  inches  from  the  surface. 
Where  many  are  grown,  five  lines  in  a  6-feet 
space,  having  a  pathway  between  the  series,  is  a 
very  convenient  method.  Clumps  of  from  three 
to  twelve  oorms  in  prominent  positions  in  mixed 
plant  borders  have  a  good  effect  when  in  flower. 
To  get  good  spikes  of  bloom  by  the  middle  of 
August,  corms  may  be  potted  and  encouraged  to 
grow  for  a  time  under  glass,  to  be  eventually 
planted  out  when  danger  of  severe  frost  is  past. 


Perennial  Plants  that  have  been  wintered  in 
frames  or  lately  received  from  the  nursery  may 
now  be  planted  out,  using  in  every  case  a  small 
quantity  of  good  soil  about  the  roots.  Any  that 
display  tender  growth  may  with  advantage  have 
some  evergreen  sprays  placed  around  them  for 
protection.  Propagation  of  perennials  must  at 
times  be  carried  out,  and  may  be  consummated 
in  various  ways.  At  the  present  time,  with 
growth  starting,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  go 
through  the  collection  of  established  plants  and 
detach  small  portions  that  are  spreading  out- 
wards, planting  these  upon  a  reserved  border 
to  gain  strength  in  readiness  for  transference 
next  autumn  to  a  fresh  site,  when  the  older 
stock  may  be  discarded. 

Hardy  Fruit. 

Filberts  and  Cob  Nuts  are  best  pruned  when  in 
flower,  and  the  thinning  of  the  bearing  wood 
may  be  regulated  by  the  number  of  crimson- 
tinted  female  buds  that  are  present.  All  sucker 
growths  and  others  that  tend  to  crowd  the 
central  part  of  the  trees  should  be  out  clean 
away.  Catkins  are  usually  plentiful,  and  by 
shaking  the  branches  on  a  dry,  warm  day  the 
pollen  therefrom  is  freely  dispersed.  Should  the 
reverse  of  this  prevail,  catkin-bearing  branches 
of  the  common  Nut  may  be  brought  from  the 
woods  and  be  placed  about  the  trees  to  effect  a 
proper  set.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Galloway  Souse,  Garlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


GROWING     CUPID      SWEET 
PEAS     IN     BARRELS. 

IN  reply  to  requests  in  The  Garden  for  hints 
on  growing  these  dwarf  Sweet  Peas,  as  far 
as  my  experience  goes  the  barrel  system 
has  proved  the  most  satisfactory,  both  for 
effect  and  duration  of  bloom.  I  have 
tried  them  in  various  ways,  in  beds  and  in 
ribbon  borders,  but  with  very  little  returns  as 
regards  bloom,  the  result  being  the  dropping  of 
the  flower-buds  ;  and  where  slugs  abound  it  is 
useless  to  try  and  grow  them  on  the  flat  ground. 
Now,  whether  it  is  the  elevated  position  on  the 
barrels,  with  the  free  access  of  the  sun  and 
air,  or  the  composition  of  the  soil  and  treat- 
ment that  make  them  so  free  flowering  and 
non-bud  dropping,  as  seen  on  page  78  of  The 
Garden,  I  would  not  like  to  say.  One  thing  is 
certain — they  like  it.  Barrels  of  a  workable  size, 
and  what  we  use,  are  3  feet  .'J  inches  high  and 
22  inches  broad  at  the  top.  Paint  the  outside  a 
slate  colour.  Bore  a  few  holes  in  the  bottom  for 
drainage.  The  first  row  of  holes  for  the 
reception  of  the  plants  should  be  6  inches  from 
the  bottom  and  S  inches  apart  round  the  barrel, 
the  second  and  remaining  rows  of  holes  being 
3i  inches  apart  and  bored  in  a  position  between 
the  first  row,  thus  :  ,,*»*,  Continue  and  finish 
the  last  row  2  inches  or  3  inches  from  the  top. 
The  holes  should  be  2  inches  in  diameter. 

The  soil  to  be  used  is  important.  These  little 
plants  are  ravenous  feeders  and  produce  a  mat 
of  roots.  Some  time  previous  to  planting  chop 
up  two  parts  loam  (not  too  fine),  one  part 
decayed  manure,  half  a  part  leaf -soil,  and  add  a 
6-inch  potful  of  bone-meal  for  each  barrel  with  a 
little  soot  and  wood-ashes.  Mix  thoroughly  and 
keep  fairly  dry  till  wanted.  Plants  must  be 
raised  in  pots  or  boxes — the  former  are  best — 
inserting  single  seeds  in  2i-inch  pots  any  time 
from  February  to  the  end  of  March,  and  placing 
them  in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  frame.  When  they 
have  made  1  inch  or  2  inches  of  growth,  gradually 
harden  them  off  in  a  sheltered  position  outside 
and  transplant  to  the  barrel  from  April  onwards, 
according  to  the  locality. 

Before  proceeding  to  plant,  procure  a  piece  of 
small-meshed  wire  netting  and  make  it  into  a  cage 
3  feet  long  and  7  inches  across.  Stand  this 
upright  in  the  centre  of  the  barrel,  fill  it  and 
make   firm   with    short    stable    manure,    which 


Makch  27,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN 


169 


should  be  fresh.  This  raises  a  gentle  heat  in 
the  soil,  and  the  roots  find  access  to  it  later. 
Now  put  some  crocks  and  rough  soil  in  the 
bottom,  fill  up  with  the  prepared  mixture 
slightly  past  the  middle  of  the  bottom  row  of 
holes,  and  make  this  firm.  Knock  out  the 
plants  carefully  from  the  pots  and  bring  the 
beads  of  the  plants  through  the  holes  from 
inside,  using  moss  to  block  up  the  inside  of  the 
holes  to  prevent  the  soil  from  dropping  out,  fill 
up  with  soil  again  to  the  next  row,  repeating 
the  operation  till  finished  and  watering  as  the 
work  proceeds.     Fill  up  the  top  as  well. 

When  finished  there  will  be  about  100  plants 
round  the  barrel.  At  no  time  should  they  be 
allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of  water,  and  weak 
solutions  of  liquid  manure  as  the  soil  becomes 
exhausted  must  be  given.  The  plants  naturally 
branch  freely  and  soon  cover  the  surface  of  the 
barrels.  Seed-pods  and  faded  flowers  must  be 
incessantly  picked  off.  Although  we  have  none 
of  the  much-boomed  Spencer  type  in  these 
compact  plants,  we  have  a  fine  range  of  colour. 
The  best  are  White  Cupii;  Boreatton,  dark  ; 
Captain  of  the  Blues  ;  Firefly,  scarlet ;  Royalty, 
rose;  Primrose,  cream;  Stella  Morse,  buff; 
Pink  Cupid  and  Countess  of  Radnor,  heliotrope. 
Jambs  Rae. 
(Gardener  to  Lord  Northesk. ) 

EthU  Gaetle,  Arbroath,  N.B. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  AnBvr&PB^—The  Editor  intends 
to  make  TSB  Qabdbn  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
atsistamie,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  colwirm.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clewrly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  TES 
OASDBII,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  Londtm, 
W.O.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Fublishee. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Dwarf  Capnatlons  {E.  M.  i).).— The 

Marguerite  Carnations  would  not  be  reliable  as 
a  permanent  edging,  and  possibly  not  quite  dwarf 
enough  for  your  purpose.  The  ordinary  forms 
of  the  garden  Pink  would  be  immensely  superior 
and,  while  requiring  a  minimum  of  attention, 
would  provide  you  also  with  a  maximum  of 
beautiful  and  fragrant  flowers.  A  pretty  form 
with  dark  centre  is  Dianthus  fimbriatus,  and 
there  are  also  the  double  varieties  Mrs.  Sinkins, 
Her  Majesty  and  others.  You  should  en- 
deavour to  obtain  young  or  freshly  rooted 
plants  as  opposed  to  old,  worn-out  examples. 
Whether  the  single  Chrysanthemums  will  stand 
the  winter  out  of  doors  depends  very  much  upon 
the  local  conditions,  but  we  think  they  would  do 
so  in  your  case.  It  does  not  follow,  however, 
that  the  best  are  also  the  hardiest ;  that  is  a 
matter  for  testing,  and  the  behaviour  of  a  variety 
differs  with  the  locality.  The  following  are 
good  and  distinct :  Nancy,  pink ;  Mrs.  Earle, 
white ;  Brightness,  yellow  ;  Ruby,  crimson ; 
Alexandra,  crushed  strawberry ;  Canada,  salmon ; 
J.  H.  Runohman,  terra-cotta  ;  Gem  of  Merstham, 
deep  crimson  ;  and  Florence  Gillham,  white. 

Infopmatlon  about  Ibepis  iE.  T.  //.).— No, 
Iberis  gibraltarica  is  not  so  good  in  flowering,  nor  is  it  so 
reliably  hardy  nor  so  good  a  perennial.  I.  corresefolla  is  a 
very  fine  one,  however,  if  you  get  it  true,  pure  in  colour 
and  compact.  A  very  excellent  plant  is  the  double  white 
Arabis,  easily  grown  and  increased  and  free-flowering 
withal.  The  white-flowered  alpine  Phloxes  (P.  Nelsonii 
and  P.  The  Bride)  are  very  desirable  plants,  but  they  may 
not  be  suitable  to  your  case,     You  could,  however,  give 


S9me  of  them  a  trial.  Vou  omitted  to  send  your  address, 
hence  the  delay  in  replying. 

Culture  of  Calypso  bopealis  (J.  K.  M.).— 

This  is  a  hardy  member  of  the  Orchid  family,  and  cannot 
be  regarded  as  a  plant  of  easy  cultivation.  It  succeeds 
best  in  half-shady  spots  on  the  margins  of  a  rock  garden 
or  artiflcial  bog  in  a  light,  moist  vegetable  soil,  such  as 
peat,  leaf-mould  and  sand  well  mixed  together. 

Pinks,  Violets  and  Siveet  Peas  (H.  u.).— 
The  only  reason  that  we  can  give  for  the  Pinks  going 
wrong  is  that  the  plants  were  poorly  rooted  and  so 
indifferently  planted  that  snow  and  frost  have  proved  too 
much  for  them.  It  may  be  also  that  wirewornis  have 
attacked  the  plants,  but  this  you  could  discover  by  an 
examination  of  the  stems.  In  planting  the  Pink  freshly- 
rooted  cuttings  are  the  best,  and  the  leaf-tufts  should  be 
planted  firmly  and  nestle  on  the  surface.  Vigorous  young 
plants  are  hardy  in  the  extreme,  but  old,  feebly  rooted 
pieces  rarely  do  much  good.  La  France  is  probably  the 
Violet  you  require,  and  there  is  also  Princess  of  Wales, 
both  being  of  large  size.  Old  Russian  is  good,  hardy  and 
free,  but  smaller  in  size.  Freshly  rooted  young  plants  are 
the  best,  as  the  seedlings  do  not  come  true.  A  light 
dusting  of  the  soot  will  do  no  harm  to  the  Peas  ;  indeed, 
it  is  an  excellent  fertiliser  and  will  do  good.  At  the  sides 
of  the  rows  give  a  heavier  dressing  to  the  soil  and  hoe  it  in. 

Dahlias  fop  India  (Rob  iJo.i/).— In  reply  to  your 
request  for  the  names  of  different  types  of  the  Dahlia,  we 
append  the  undermentioned  list.  We  can  hardly  say  they 
are  arranged  in  their  order  of  merit,  as  many  of  the 
varieties  therein  included  are  of  equal  merit ;  Eighteen 
show — David  .Tohnson,  Octavia,  James  Cocker,  Standard, 
Daniel  Cornish,  Mrs.  Stephen  Walker,  Delicacy,  Mariner, 
Claret  Cup,  A.  M.  Burnie,  David  Johnson,  Florence  Tranter, 
R.  T.  Hawlings,  William  Rawlings,  Eclipse,  Blush  Gem, 
Sulphurea  and  Mrs.  Gladstone.  Twelve  fancies— Mariner, 
Boy  Scale,  Mrs.  Saunders,  Buffalo  Bill,  Premier,  William 
Sheldon,  Mabel,  Gold  Aledal,  Mrs.  John  Downie,  Chorister, 
Major  Barttelot  and  John  Cooper.  Eighteen  Cactus— 
J.  B.  Riding,  William  Marshall,  Lucifer,  Faunus,  Hilda 
Shoebridge,  Ruby  Grinsted,  Mabel  Needs,  Conrad, 
Violetta,  Dreadnought,  Sunshine,  Iris,  Caradoc,  Etrnria, 
Victorian,  Dr.  G.  G.  Gray,  C.  E.  Wilkins  and  Clara. 
Twelve  Pompons— Bacchus,  Doctor  Jim,  Darkest  of  All, 
Nerissa,  Tommy  Keith,  Kitty  Barrett,  Rodney,  Wilfred, 
George  Brinkman,  Neatness,  Adelaide  and  Model.  Six 
singles— Kitty,  Stromboli,  Mikado,  Snowdrop,  Polly  Eccles 
and  Serita. 

Infopmatlon  about  erapden  plan  {E.  H.  S. 

Eddii,  Xew  York),— 'We  are  greatly  interested  Ijy  your 
letter,  and  are  also  gratified  to  learn  that  The  Garden  is 
so  helpful  to  you.  We  are  not  at  all  surprised  that  the 
arrangement  does  not  satisfy  you,  for  the  dotting  about  of 
certain  colours  which  are  near  akin  to  each  other  not  only 
"  teases  the  eye,"  as  you  say,  but  aggravates  all  one's  ideas 
of  good  taste.  These  more  or  less  objectionable  shades  of 
colour  catch  the  eye  too  frequently  in  agarden  where  so  much 
is  to  be  seen  at  once,  and,  however  desirable  such  things 
might  prove  in  gardening  of  apurely  picturesque  character, 
they  are  not  likely  to  prove  either  effective  or  pleasing 
in  a  set  of  beds  such  as  those  indicated  on  the  sketch  you 
are  good  enough  to  send  for  our  inspection,  ^'ou  appear  to 
object  to  the  straight-line  arrangement,  and  the  obvious 
alternative  is  to  group  or  mass  the  subjects  which  are 
planted.  The  difficulty  we  see  in  the  matter  is  that  of 
altering  without  remodelling  the  whole,  and,  unfortunately, 
the  entire  series  of  beds  and  paths  are  laid  out  with 
geometrical  precision,  and  the  straight-line  work  of  the 
original  designer  has  been  carried  into  the  flower-beds  in 
all  directions,  the  larger  beds  nearer  the  ends  showing 
this  very  conspicuously.  In  such  a  case  the  only  way  is  to 
drop  the  formal  style  of  planting,  do  away  with  the  edging- 
like arrangement  of  Polyanthus  shown  and  the  set  blocks 
of  plants  as  noted  at  AA,  cfec,  and  in  their  stead  plant 
free  edgings  of  such  subjects  as  Saxifraga  Wallace!,  white, 
6  inches ;  Phlox  Nelsonii,  white ;  P.  atropurpurea  ;  P. 
Model,  pink  ;  Aubrietia  Dr.  Mules,  deep  violet ;  A.  Moer- 
heimii,  pink ;  A.  Lavender,  pale  blue ;  Iberis  sempervirens, 
white ;  I.  corretefolia,  white  ;  Megasea  (Saxlfraga)  cordi- 
folia  purpurea,  reddish ;  Alyssum  saxatile,  yellow ;  and  the 
lovely  blue  of  the  Hepaticas.  Any  or  all  of  these  would 
spread  out  over  the  margin,  and,  by  breaking  up  the 
straight  line,  afford  greater  beauty  generally.  In  dealing 
with  any  of  these  marginal  plants  one  colour  only  should 
be  used,  though  a  set  of  beds  may  be  treated  with  all 
white-flowered  plants  and  so  on,  as  the  Pinks,  Iberis  and 
Saxlfraga  mentioned  above.  Then,  in  the  general  treat- 
ment of  the  beds,  masses  and  not  lines  should  appear,  the 
former  to  be  set  out  in  free  informal  groups,  whether 
these  be  of  Lilies,  Phloxes,  Hollyhocks,  Pseonies,  Irises, 
Sunflowers,  Michaelmas  Daisies  or  any  other  plant.  What 
we  mean  by  free  groups  is  the  setting  out  of  three,  five  or 
a  dozen  plants,  say  of  a  pure  white  Phlox  or  pink  or 
scarlet,  arranging  the  units  not  nearer  than  IS  inches,  so 
that  at  flowering-time  your  present  spotty  effect  may  be 
transformed  into  effective  groups.  The  same  scheme  may 
be  followed  with  the  Flag  Irises,  as  I.  pallida,  I.  Mme. 
Chereau,  I.  Dr.  Bernice,  I.  aurea,  I.  Mrs.  Darwin  and 
others.  Indeed,  your  centre  set  of  beds  could  each  be 
arranged  with  plants  of  one  of  these,  and,  if  planted  thinly. 
Lilies  could  spring  therefrom  for  later  work.  In  a 
further  set  Pfeonies  in  pink,  white,  crimson  and  rose 
could  be  set  out,  one  colour  only  in  each  bed.  In  such  an 
arrangement  Narcissus  Emperor  could  be  planted,  or  such 
as  Empress,  Sir  Watkin  and  others  to  flower  in  spring,  these 
and  their  leafage  contrasting  well  with  the  colour  tints 
of  the  Pseony  stems  and  leaves.  In  other  directions 
carpet  plants,  such  as  Anemone  blanda  and  Muscaria 
conicum,  might  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  beds  to  flower 
first  and  afford  sheets  of  colour.  The  Italian  Starwort, 
Aster  Amellus,  is  a  plant  to  make  much  of  and  is  splendid 


in  August  and  September.  It  is  2^  feet  high  and  violet 
coloured.  Other  good  Asters  are  cordifolius,  Novi-Belgii 
Aroturos,  N.-E.  densus,  acris  and  la?vigatus,  groups  of 
which  should  not  be  less  than  3  feet— better  still,  if  6  feet 
—across,  always  appearing  informally.  Gaillardias, 
Hollyhocks,  Columbines,  Globe  Flowers  and  single  Pyre- 
thrums  in  pink,  rose  and  carmine  are  other  important 
things  to  be  made  much  of  in  such  a  garden  as  yours. 
Annuals,  too,  could  be  freely  employed,  selecting  good 
sorts  of  decided  colour  in  all.  Beds  of  Roses  wholly  of 
one  colour  should  be  arranged,  and  a  scarlet  Rose  having 
a  groundwork  of  white  Violas,  with  scarlet  Lobelia  or 
Gladiolus  for  autumn  effect,  is  telling  indeed  and  effective 
always.  We  cannot,  of  course,  take  up  the  place  of  the 
gardener  on  the  spot ;  but  if  this  latter  idea  of  the  Rose- 
bed  is  carried  out  more  generally,  with,  of  course,  certain 
modifications,  you  have  somewhat  of  our  ideas  of  trans- 
forming your  garden  into  a  more  effective  whole.  For 
effect  we  incline  always  to  the  use  of  self-coloured 
flowers,  and  by  employing  these  in  larger  numbers  obtain 
the  desired  results. 


TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 
PFuning"  Azapa dentata  (Stephen  R.). 

You  may  cut  your  plants  of  Azara  dentata 
back  about  the  middle  of  April.  It  thej'  are 
quite  healthy  there  is  no  fear  of  them  failing  to 
grow  again.  Should  the  weather  prove  dry, 
you  can  assist  them  by  syringing  overhead 
twice  a  day  until  new  shoots  appear,  which  will 
probably  be  about  the  middle  of  May.  After 
your  plants  are  furnished  with  young  wood,  you 
can  keep  them  within  bounds  by  an  annual 
pruning  in  April. 

Paths    ot    Thyme  and  Heather 

[O.  G.  5^.).— The  dwarf  kinds  of  Thyme  and 
Heather  will  certainly  be  the  most  suitable  ones 
for  your  paths.  The  varieties  of  Thyme  you 
mention  are  good,  and  in  addition  to  Erica 
camea  you  can  use  E.  mediterranea  hybrida,  E. 
cinerea,  E.  multiflora,  E.  vagans  and  varieties, 
and  Calluna  vulgaris.  You  can  keep  them  dwarf 
by  cutting  them  over  annually  as  soon  as  the 
flowers  are  over.  A  very  good  plant  for  the 
work  and  one  that  will  keep  dwarf  naturally  is 
Empetrum  nigrum,  a  dwarf  evergreen,  which 
grows  rapidly  and  forms  a  nice  carpet.  You 
might  also  try  some  of  the  dwarf  but  vigorous- 
growing  Genistas,  such  as  G.  pilosa.  Euonymus 
radicans  is  also  a  good  plant  for  the  purpose, 
while  Ivy  may  be  used.  The  best  effects  can  be 
obtained  by  keeping  the  colours  separate.  Dwarf 
Saxifrages  will  form  an  efieotive  edging. 

Tpeatment  of  Holly  seeds  {N.  N.). 

You  can  keep  your  Holly  seeds  in  sand  until 
autumn  if  you  like.  They  may  be  kept 
moderately  damp  and  turned  over  occasionally. 
If  you  prefer  it,  however,  you  can  sow  the  seeds 
at  once ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  any  will 
germinate  before  twelve  months  next  May. 
They  are  very  erratic  in  their  behaviour,  and 
occasionally  a  few  will  germinate  soon  after 
sowing  during  the  first  year  after  being  gathered. 
More  frequently,  however,  they  lie  dormant  for 
twelve  months,  and  the  majority  appear  after 
the  seeds  have  been  gathered  eighteen  months  or 
two  years,  some  appearing  after  the  seeds  have 
been  sown  three  years.  By  keeping  the  seeds  in 
sand  the  necessary  changes  take  place  just  as  if 
the  seeds  had  been  sown,  and  the  ground  can 
thus  be  utilised  for  some  other  purpose. 

Destpoylngr  a  tree  stump  (^.).— You  may 
bore  several  holes  in  a  large  tree  stump,  say,  three  or 
four,  or  one  will  do.  With  several  holes,  of  course,  more 
saltpetre  can  be  used  and  the  stump  will  become  soaked 
more  rapidly.  You  will  not  find  any  great  difficulty  in 
igniting  the  stumps  providing  they  have  become  well 
impregnated  with  the  saltpetre  and  paraffin.  The  burning 
process  is  a  slow  one,  as,  of  course,  they  smoulder  away 
rather  than  burn  rapidly.  The  larger  the  diameter  of  the 
holes  the  better. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Camellia  buds  falling:  (E.  L.  Ridley). 
The  fact  that  the  buds  of  your  Camellia  fall 
instead  of  opening  may  be  due  to  any  one  of  a 
number  of  reasons.  The  plant  being  either  too 
dry  or  too  wet  at  the  roots,  either  now  or  pre- 
viously, would  account  for  it.  Bad  drainage 
would  also  be  conducive  to  bud-falling.  By 
suddenly  taking  the  plant  from  outdoors  last 


160 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Makch  27,  1909. 


autumn  into  a  close  atmosphere  might  also  cause 
it,  or  the  trouble  may  be  due  to  keeping  the 
plant  in  a  very  dry  atmosphere.  It  is  quite 
probable,  however,  that  the  plant  has  been 
allowed  to  become  either  too  dry  or  too  wet  at 
the  roots.  It  would  be  advisable  to  turn  it  out 
of  the  pot  and  examine  the  roots  :  if  the  drainage 
is  bad,  remove  it  and  give  all  new.  If  repotting 
is  necessary,  use  a  compost  of  equal  parts  of 
fibrous  loam  and  peat,  with  one  part  in  six  of 
silver  sand. 

Intpoduction  of  Ppimula  kenrensls 

(Pr^'jHH^a).— This  Primula  was  raised  at  Kew  in  1898  and 
was  put  on  the  market  in  1900. 

Cattleyas  grone  vrrong  (T.  H.  D.).—We  do  not 
know  whether  you  are  subjected  to  smoky  fogs  during 
the  winter,  as  they  are  very  apt  to  cause  the  flowers  of 
Cattleyas  to  go  blind.  If  not,  the  trouble  is  probably 
caused  by  too  low  a  temperature  and  an  excess  of 
moisture. 

Roman  Hyacinths  a  failupe  (Mix.  0'B.).—U 
is  quite  impossible  to  flower  Koman  Hyacinths  in  a  satis- 
factory manner  the  second  season.  The  best  thing  to  do 
when  the  flowers  are  past  is  to  throw  them  away.  In  the 
southern  part  of  Europe,  where  these  Hyacinths  are 
largely  grown  for  the  English  market,  they  are  disposed 
of  as  soon  as  they  reach  full  size. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Buddingr     Roses     on     standard 

StOCRs  (L.  6.). — This  work  is  so  very  simple 
that  we  feel  sure  you  will  eventually  succeed,  as 
you  possess  that  enthusiasm  which  enables  one  to 
surmount  small  difficulties  that  abound  in  horti- 
culture. As  you  failed  last  Season,  we  take  it  you 
still  possess  the  standard  stocks.  If  that  be  the 
case,  you  should  cut  back  at  once  the  lateral 
growths  as  close  as  possible  to  the  upright  stem. 
When  this  operation  is  finished  there  will  remain 
nothing  excepting  the  upright  stem  of  the  Briar. 
New  growths  will  start  from  this  stem  as  soon  as 
the  weather  turns  warmer,  and  when  they  are  a 
few  inches  in  length  all  should  be  cut  away 
except  three  of  the  best,  if  possible  placed  at  even 
distances  from  each  other.  It  is  into  the  basal  end 
of  such  growths  that  the  buds  are  inserted.  In 
our  issue  of  July  '25  of  last  year  you  will  find 
some  excellent  illustrations  of  budding  Roses'; 
but  we  would  strongly  advise  you  to  make  the 
acquaintance  of  some  gardener  or  Rose-grower, 
who  would  teach  you  the  art  in  a  few  minutes. 
Providing  the  buds  are  cut  from  wood  or  growths 
that  are  just  fit  and  inserted  in  the  stocks  when 
the  sap  is  flowing  freely  during  early  July,  and 
they  are  carefully  tied  in,  success  is  almost 
certain.  We  trust  you  will  be  able  to  carry  out 
your  intention  of  exhibiting  at  The  Garden 
Show,  for  we  believe  it  is  going  to  be  again  a 
great  success. 

Rose  Solfateppe  (E.  S.  1/.).— This  beautiful  Noisette 
Rose  you  will  find  offered  by  Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Son, 
Waltham  Cross,  who  could  no  doubt  supply  you  with  pot- 
grown  plants,  which  are  best  for  planting  out  uuder 
glass. 

Potting  Roses  (Sinclair).— You  cannot  very  well 
pot  too  firmly,  providing  the  compost  used  is  in  the  right 
condition.  It  should  neither  be  too  wet  nor  too  dry.  If 
on  taking  a  handful  and  squeezing  it  it  just  holds  together 
in  a  ball  without  breaking,  it  is  in  the  right  condition  ; 
but  if  too  wet  it  will  appear  pasty,  or  if  too  dry  it  will 
crumble  and  fall  away. 

Ipon  i\  ^vood  as  suppopts  fop  Roses 
(Sinclair).— It  is  generally  agreed  by  all  practical  rosarians 
that  iron  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible  as 
supports  for  Roses.  As  you  have  the  gas-piping,  you 
could  perhaps  use  it  by  placing  indiarubber  rings  between 
the  iron  and  the  Rose  tree  at  those  points  where  the  trees 
are  supported  with  ties.  Gas-piping  is  often  used  for 
arches,  but  usually  wood  in  some  form  is  associated  with 
it  so  that  the  growths  of  the  Roses  do  not  come  in 
contact  with  the  iron. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Orange  trees  losing  their  leaves 

( Orangi ).  — There  is  no  doubt  that  the  roots  of 
your  Orange  trees  are  in  a  bad  state,  and  the 
only  thing  you  can  do  is  to  repot  them.  In  the 
first  place  you  must  pick  ofi'  the  fruit,  then  turn 
the  plants  out  of  their  pots  and  take  away  as 
much  as  possible  of  the  old  sell.  It  is  very 
likely  that  the  greater  part  of  the  soil  will  come 
away  and  that  the  plants  majr  with  advantage 


be  put  into  pots  smaller  than  they  are  now  in. 
If  such  is  the  case,  do  so,  as  the  main  object  is  to 
restore  the  roots  to  a  healthy  state,  and  this 
cannot  be  done  if  there  is  a  large  mass  of  soil 
around  the  roots.  The  first  consideration  is  to 
get  the  pots  furnished  with  good,  healthy  roots, 
and  after  this  shift  into  larger  pots  when  neces- 
sary. The  repotting  should  be  carried  out  at 
once,  a  suitable  soil  for  the  purpose  being  equal 
parts  of  loam  and  peat,  with  nearly  half  a  part 
of  silver  sand.  This  must  be  thoroughly  mixed 
together  before  using.  After  potting  the  plants 
should  be  placed,  if  possible,  in  the  stove  ;  but  if 
there  is  not  such  a  structure  available  they  may 
be  stood  in  the  warmest  house  jou  have.  Enough 
water  must  be  given  to  keep  the  soil  fairly 
moist,  but  an  excess  will  be  very  harmful.  The 
plants  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  being  lightly 
syringed  three  or  four  times  a  day.  If  placed  in 
the  stove  after  new  growth  is  produced  and  the 
roots  are  active,  the  plants  must  be  gradually 
inured  to  a  somewhat  cooler  temperature. 

Peaps  and  Apples  spotted  (W.  N.  B.  D.).— 
The  trouble  described  is  probably  due  to  the  attack  upon 
the  fruit  of  the  fungus  Fusioladium  dendriticum,  which 
attacks  also  the  leaves  and  the  shoots.  Care  should  be 
taken  that  all  dead  and  diseased  wood  is  kept  pruned  out 
of  the  trees,  and  they  should  be  sprayed  before  the  buds 
burst  with  a  solution  of  copper  sulphate,  lib.  to  twenty- 
five  gallons  of  water,  and  again  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  at 
half  the  strength  used  for  Potatoes,  just  after  the  buds 
burst,  and  a  second  time  as  soon  as  the  petals  have  fallen. 
The  ordinary  winter  alkali  wash  is  of  no  use  against  this 
disease. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Sowing:  Cappot  seed   [B.    ir.)— We 

have  never  previously  heard  or  read  ot  such  an 
odd  suggestion  as  yours.  It  would,  we  fear,  be 
very  difficult  to  force  a  piece  of  stick  through  a 
Carrot  seed,  as  not  only  is  the  seed  rather  small, 
but  it  is  hard.  Such  an  attempt  would  probably 
result  in  splitting  the  seed  and  thus  destroying 
it.  But  the  suggestion  is  too  absurd,  as  you 
may  tell  anyone  who  shall  repeat  it.  If  you 
want  to  have  broad  Carrots — by  which  we  assume 
you  mean  those  that  are  stout  or  thick — you 
should  get  the  one  known  as  Model,  a  short 
or  stump-rooted  variety.  These  roots,  while 
about  7  inches  long,  often  come  fully  3  inches 
through  towards  the  crowns.  If  you  want  a 
longer  Carrot,  say,  from  12  inches  to  14  inches 
long,  then  get  New  Intermediate,  as  this  variety 
produces  the  stoutest  roots.  To  have  specially 
fine,  handsome  roots,  make  holes  in  the  ground 
12  inches  deep  in  rows,  using  a  pointed  stake  or 
crowbar,  and  6  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  Fill 
these  and  press  down  firm  with  sifted  soil  ;  then 
sow  three  seeds  on  the  top  of  each.  When  the 
plants  are  up,  pull  out  two  and  leave  one  only. 
Then  you  will  get  fine,  clean  Carrots. 

Manupes  fop  Potatoes    {/.    H.).— 

Potatoes  need  as  manures  rather  less  of  nitrogen 
(nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  ammonia)  than  of 
phosphates,  such  as  superphosphate  of  lime  or 
bone-flower,  and  of  potash,  as  found  in  kainit 
and  sulphate  or  muriate  of  potash.  These  two 
latter  build  up  stout,  woody  stems  and  good 
starchy  tubers.  The  nitrates  tend  to  create  rather 
coarse,  soft  leafage,  which  is  not  desirable.  What 
is  commonly  advised  as  a  good  chemical  Potato 
manure  is  41b.  of  superphosphate  and  21b.  of 
potash  well  worked  into  the  soil  before  planting 
the  tubers,  adding  lib.  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  sul- 
phate of  ammonia,  very  finely  crushed,  sprinkling 
it  between  the  rows  of  plants  just  before  flat- 
hoeing  them  ;  these  proportions  are  per  rod  area. 
The  slip  of  paper  you  refer  to  seems  to  have  been 
a  chemical  manure  manufacturer's  list,  but  that 
has  no  bearing  on  the  immediate  subject.  The 
primary  elements  for  manure  are  phosphates,  as 
found  in  bone-flour,  superphosphate  and  basic 
slag ;  potash,  as  found  in  kainit,  muriate  of 
potash  and  wood-ashes  ;  and  nitrogen,  as  found 
in  nitrate  of  soda,  sulphate  of  ammonia,  rape 
meal  and  fish  guano.  Quantities  of  these  for  use 
depends  much  on  the  nature  of  the  crop  to  be 
growUt 


Selections  of  veg-etables  fop  India  (Koh 
-/^o.v).— Peas— Sutton's  Invincible,  2^  feet  to  3?;  feet  high  ; 
Sutton's  Beat  of  all,  3  feet  to  4  feet  high  ;  Duke  of  Albany, 
4  feet  to  5  feet  high.  Beebroot-^The  Globe,  Turnip-rooted, 
one  of  the  earliest ;  Dell's  Crimson,  long  rooted,  for 
autumn  and  winter.  Cabbi^e— Sutton's  Earliest  for  spring 
sowing;  Ellam's  for  sowing  in  August  for  spring  and 
summer  use.  Carrots— First  early,  Scarlet  Horn  ;  for  later 
use,  Sutton's  Favourite.  Turnips— First  early.  Snowball ; 
later,  Sutton's  Matchless.  Cucumbers— Every  Day  and 
Rochford's  Telegraph.  Tomatoes— Carter's  Sunrise ; 
Veitch's  Frogmore  Selected.    Marrow— Moore's  Cream. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Magg-ots  for  identification  (//.  .V.»/-*  /.v).— The 
maggots  you  sent  are  no  doubt  the  grub  of  the  black  flies 
you  find  in  the  summer  and  which  belong  to  the  genus 
Bibio.  There  are  several  different  species  of  these  flies, 
but  without  seeing  specimens  I  cannot  even  guess  to  which 
yours  belong.  One  which  is  very  common  early  in  the 
year  fabout  the  end  of  April)  is  known  as  the  St.  Mark's 
fly.  I  do  not  know  of  any  liquid  insecticide  which  will 
kill  them  when  in  the  soil.  You  might  try  Kilogrub.  As 
the  flies  are  generally  sluggish,  you  might  catch  many  io  a 
butterfly  net.— G.  S.  S. 

Lawn  tennis  iTeanU).—\o\i.T  better  plan  would  be 
to  communicate  with  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  or 
Messrs.  Carter  and  Co.,  High  Holborn.  An  important 
omission  from  your  letter  is  the  nature  of  the  soil,  and  as 
this  will  materially  affect  the  choice  of  the  seeds  to  be 
sown,  and  as  these  also  vary  in  weight  and  other  par- 
ticulars, it  is  necessary  that  you  state  the  character  of 
the  soil.  It  is  important,  too,  that  the  soil  be  freed  of 
perennial  weed  roots,  and,  so  far  as  is  possible,  of  annual 
weeds  also,  by  hoeing  prior  to  the  final  levelling  for  the 
sowing  of  the  seeds.  Showery  weather  in  early  April 
would  be  a  good  time  to  sow. 

Infopmatlon.  about  sppingtails  (ir.  Lah'r). 
The  springtails  or  Poduridje,  like  other  insects,  lay  eggs. 
The  young  hatched  from  these,  however,  do  not  undergo 
marked  transformations  like  most  insects,  but  gradually 
increase  in  size  until  they  are  fully  developed,  so  that  at 
no  time  in  their  lives  are  they  grubs,  flies,  chrysalides  or 
any  other  insect.  Very  little  is  known  about  the  life- 
history  of  these  little  creatures,  which  are  sometimes  met 
with  in  extraordinarj'  profusion,  even  on  snow,  glaciers 
and  sheets  of  water.  There  are  a  large  number  of  genera 
and  species  ;  they  are  all  small,  and  are  supposed  to  feed 
generally  on  refuse  animal  and  vegetable  matter.— G.  S.  S. 

Vapious  questions  {E.  i?.),— The  Iresine,  of 
which  a  specimen  is  enclosed,  is  Iresine  Herbstii.  The 
pale  colour  in  the  leaves  of  your  Cattleyas  is  undoubtedly 
caused  by  errors  in  cultivation,  but  what  they  are  it  is,  of 
course,  impossible  for  us  to  say.  They  may  have  been  kept 
too  hot  or  too  cold  or  too  dry  at  the  roots.  A  lack  of  atmo- 
spheric moisture  would  have  the  same  effect.  We  expect 
their  roots  are  in  a  bad  state,  and  that  it  would  be  an 
advantage  to  repot  them  now  in  a  mixture  of  flbrous  peat 
and  sphagnum.  There  is  a  publication  by  Messrs.  Sutton 
and  Sons  of  Reading,  entitled  *'  Lawns,"  and  another  by 
Messrs.  James  Carter  and  Co.,  High  Holborn,  under  the 
title  of  "Formation  and  Management  of  Lawns,"' either 
of  which  would  be  of  assistance  to  you. 

GPUbS  foP  identification  {Amateur,  Bickley),— 
The  leathery  grubs  you  sent  are  those  of  a  two-winged 
fly  belonging  to  the  genus  Bibio,  very  probably  Bibio 
Marci  or  the  St.  Mark's  fly.  These  flies  frequently  appear 
in  large  numbers  in  gardens  about  St.  Mark's  Day 
(April  lio).  They  do  not  fly  well,  and  are  as  often  as  not 
found  coupled  together.  They  are  generally  black,  but 
there  are  several  species,  and  they  are  no  doubt  harmful 
to  the  roots  of  plants.  I  expect  you  did  not  use  sufficient 
of  the  Vaporite.  I  was  unable  to  And  any  of  the  little 
white  worms  you  mentioned  among  the  moss,  which  was 
very  dry  by  the  time  it  reached  me  ;  please  send  up  some 
more  specimens.  They  could  not  have  been  young  earth- 
worms, or  I  should  not  have  failed  to  find  them.  A  solu- 
tion of  corrosive  sublimate  (bichloride  of  mercury),  loz. 
dissolved  in  a  Ifttle  warm  water  and  diluted  with  forty 
gallons  of  water  before  using,  is  said  to  be  as  eificacious 
as  lime-water  ;  this  drug  is  a  very  strong  poison.— G.  S.  S. 

Plants  in  pooms  ^vhepe   g*as  Is  bupned 

(J/rA\  B.)-— Gas  burnt  in  a  room  is  certainly  injurious  to 
plant-life,  though  some  are  less  aifected  by  it  than  others. 
Whether  one  burner  kept  alight  during  the  night  will 
injure  your  plants  depends  upon  several  things,  such  as 
the  distance  the  plants  are  from  the  burner,  the  height  of 
the  room,  the  ventilation  thereof  and  whether  the  plants 
are  tall  or  short.  This  last  is  important,  as  plants  that 
reach  up  near  the  ceiling  are  more  affected  by  gas  than 
shorter  ones.  Plants  most  suitable  for  rooms  in  which 
gas  is  burnt  are  Aspidistras  (both  green  and  variegated), 
Aralia  Sieboldii  (often  erroneously  termed  the  Castor  Oil 
Plant),  Araucaria  excelsa  or  Norfolk  Island  Pine,  Cordy- 
line  indivisa  and  Ophiopogon  japonica  variegata  (prettily 
variegated  grass-like  leaves).  Of  Ferns  the  best  are  Pteris 
cretica  and  P.  serrulata,  both  termed  Ribbon  Ferns,  with 
P.  tremula  and  P.  Wimsettii.  Among  Palms  the  most 
useful  are  Kentia  belmoreana,  K.  forateriana,  Cocos 
weddeJliana,  Latania  borbonica,  Rhapis  flabelliformls  and 
Corypha  australis. 

Names  of  fv\i\t*—Bo8cobel.—\,  Alfriston  ;  2,  Bow 

Hill  Pippin. J.  Davi^.—l,  Margil ;  2,  Nelson's  Codlin  ; 

4,  New  Bess  Pool ;  5,  Reinette  du  Canada ;  li,  Hollandbury. 

Names   of    plants.- -3/r.   C— Iris  reticulata. 

X.  C.   C— Rose  W.  A.  Richardson. H.  J.   O.—Den- 

drobium  nobile. A.  M.   C— Begonia  polyantha. 

J.  i;iyi»(?(w.— Centradenia  infequilateralla  (C.  rosea). 


iipplement  to    THE   GARDEN,   March   2-jfh,   1909, 


AZURE    BLUE,    BLUE    AND    DARK    BLUE 
CHINA  ASTERS. 


ilut^'on  &  Kearns,  Liil.,Pnnle}$,  LoHiLn,  S.B. 


GARDEN.! 


^»?= 


^^^^ 


No.  1950. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


April  3,  1909. 


CONTBNTS, 


Roof  Gakdenihg 

ii;i 

Flower  Garden 

Prizes  for  Readers 

102 

Beautiful  gardens  at 
small  cost      . .     . . 

167 

N0TK8  OF  THE  WEBK 

One     of    the    Wood 

Forthcomiug  events 

1B2 

Lilies       

167 

Swede  Turnip  greens 

162 

Gypsophila  acutifolia 

167 

Parsleys      

llW 

Gakdenino  for  Beginners 

CORBBSPOHDKNOK 

Garden  work  week  by 

Clubbing  iu  Brassicas 

IR-^ 

week        

16S 

Gladiolus     y;  a  u  d  a  • 

How    to    increase 

16S 

Lavender         .     . . 

16S 

When  to  plant  fruit 

^(» 

Deep  cultivation      . . 
Hints  on  planting  a 

169 

\w 

FRCrr  GAKDEN 
How    to   grow    fruit 

The  Town  Garden  . . 

169 

103 

Gardenins  of  the  Wees 

Fruit  notes 

164 

For    the  Sonth   and 

South  Mldlandfl    . . 

1,0 

BOSK  Gakdkn 

For  the   Mortb   and 

Rose  Chateau  de  Clos 

North  Midlands  . . 

170 

\  ougeot 

164 

Editor's  Table      . .     . . 

170 

alba 

1fi4 

New  plants 

1,1 

Rose  \V.  E.  Lippiatt 

164 

Primula     sinensis     at 

Greenhouse 

Swanley      

IVl 

Ifift 

Answers    to    corre- 

SPOHDBBTS 

165 

Flower  garden  . .     . . 

1,1 

Rose  garden      . .     . . 

1,2 

culture    

105 

Greenhouse       . .     . . 

IV  2 

The    small    green- 

Miscellaneous ..     .. 

1V2 

house       

100 

Societies      

172 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Well-flowered  spraya  of  Kosa  wichuraiana  alba  . .     . .    164 

Chrysanthemum  Kouald  Ferguson 165 

A  well-llowered  branch  of  the  Silver  AVattle  . .  . .  160 
The  large-Howered  Wood  Lily  (Xrillium  grandiHorum)  167 
How  to  increase  Lavender 16S,  16i> 


BDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

Bixry  department  of  hortieulture  ie  represented  in  THE 
Garden,  aiui  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  gtiestions 
relati^tg  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  loishes  to  malte 
the  "A^i^wers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicttotu 
t'eature,  o^ui,  whe7i  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
xoiil  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  qf  their  assistance. 
All  eommunicativns  mtist  be  uyritten  clearly  on  one  side 
only  0}  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  0/  THE 
Garden,  accotnpanied  by  name  and  address  oj  the  sender. 


The  Sditor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  saje  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
an  enclosed,  he  wiU  endeavmir  to  return  non-accepted 
siyntributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Sditor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated,  it  mttst  be  distinctly  tmderstood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  mvner  oS  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  /or  the  return  ofartistia 
or  literary  co7itritmtions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
a^id  the  receipt  0/  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
wiU  atone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offlce.s:  to,  Tai>i>ilnr.k  Strei'l,  Cooent  Garden,  H'.C. 


ROOF     GARDENING. 

IT  has  been  stated  somewhere — I  do  not 
remember  where — that  to  some  extent  at 
least  roof  gardening  is  adopted  and  finds 
favour  in  certain  districts,  both  iu  China 
and  Japan  ;  but  in  all  the  pictures  I  have 
seen  of  houses  and  buildings  in  both  of  these 
countries  the  roof  is  usually  set  at  so  acute  an  angle 
as  to  almost  preclude  the  possibility  of  success  in 
any  degree  or  form.  Thinking  that  possiblj-  a 
different  type  of  roof  prevailed  in  other  localities 
than  those  represented  by  the  pictures  referred 
to,  I  sought  out  a  travelling  friend,  who,  for 
nearly  a  score  of  years,  has  travelled  largely  in 
both  countries  and  who,  as  I  write,  is  again  on 
his  way  thither,  to  make  enquiries,  which  resulted 
in  a  more  or  less  negative  reply.  In  short,  he 
said,  "If  such  things  be,  I  have  not  seen  them." 
Notwithstanding,  in  a  conversation  some  years 
ago  with  the  late  Mr.  F.  W.  Burbidge,  that 
widely-read  and  far-travelled  gentleman  informed 
me  that  in  certain  parts  of  both  China  and 
Japan  roof  gardening  was  freely  indulged  in. 

However,  upon  more  than  one  occasion  I  have 
been  asked  to  give  lists  of  plants  suitable  for  the 
purpose  indicated,  and  the  memory  is  refreshed  on 
the  point  by  letters  which  I  have  recently  received 
on  the  same  subject.  In  each  of  these  instances 
the  roof  in  question  has  been  somewhat  of  an 
eyesore,  and  being  within  view  of  some  of  the 
windows  of  the  dwelling,  it  was  desired,  by  means 
of  vegetable  Ufe,  to  shut  it  out  from  view. 
Curiously  enough,  too,  a  near  neighbour  of  mine, 
having  an  ugly  sheet-iron  roof  in  his  garden  and 
much  exposed  to  view,  enquired  a  j'ear  or  more 
ago  as  to  the  possibility  of  growing  Sedums  and 
other  plants  in  boxes  thereon  to  hide  the  bad 
ell'eot  of  the  roof,  and  the  plants  I  then  suggested 
he  obtained  and  duly  planted.  In  a  large  degree 
this  attempt  has  been  successful,  and  it  might 
have  been  wholly  so  had  a  difl'erent  method  been 
adopted  in  the  first  instance.  The  original  idea 
was  that  of  planting  in  boxes,  and  these  were 
not  only  too  shallow  in  themselves,  but  raised 
on  ledges  or  bearers  so  that  they  were  sub- 
jected to  continuous  currents  of  air  beneath, 
which,  drying  and  parching  the  soil  beyond 
expectations,  modified  what  might  otherwise 
have  proved  to  be  a  complete  success.  Moreover, 
the  boxes  warped  considerably  under  the  influence 
of  strong  sun-heat,  so  much  so  that  after  a  year's 
experience  the  original  method  has  been  con- 
siderably modified,  and  greater  success  is  now 
expected. 

In  the  above  instance  I  was  only  responsible 
for  naming  the  most  suitable  plants,  and  my 
suggestions  for  covering  the  roof  with  soil  could 
not  be  carried  out  in  their  entirety  because  the 
strength  of  the  roof  was  a  matter  of  doubt.     The 


experience  gained,  however,  was  suliioient  to 
prove  unmistakably  that  quite  a  variety  of 
plants  could  be  grown  in  the  way  suggested  ;  and 
in  certain  instances,  and  where  the  roof  of  an 
outhouse  is  open  to  view  from  a  higher  level,  it 
is  not  merely  a  good  but  an  interesting  way  of 
dealing  with  a  difficult  problem. 

Just  what  plants  may  be  introduced  and  be 
grown  with  success  will  depend  upon  a  variety  of 
circumstances,  such  as  sun,  shade  or  partial 
shade,  and  not  a  little,  of  course,  on  the  character 
and  strength  of  the  roof.  Strength  of  rafter  is 
naturally  an  important  matter,  and  with  this 
ensured,  the  best  class  of  roof  is  that  composed 
of  the  ordinary  red  guttered  tiles  seen  in  many 
country  places  or  those  ever-enduring  stone-tiled 
roofs  so  frequent  on  farmhouse,  church  or  other 
buildings  in  Midland  and  other  districts.  This 
same  style  of  roof  often  enough  affords  a  good 
object-lesson  for  those  interested  iu  roof  garden- 
ing, and  the  accumulation  of  moss  and  other 
vegetation  on  the  northern  side,  and  the  usual 
absence  of  such  things  on  the  southern  side, 
indicate  where  the  work  of  establishing  such 
plants  could  be  most  easily  carried  out.  The 
sharply  angled  stone-tiled  roofs  over  a  lych-gate 
are  often  suggestive  enough  to  the  planter,  and 
more  than  once  when  looking  at  the  moss-oovei-ed 
roofs  have  I  longed  for  a  handful  of  Wall- 
flower, Poppy,  or  Snapdragon  seeds  to  start  a 
colony  of  these  things  in  such  positions,  and 
later,  possibly,  also  to  create  wonder  or  give 
rise  to  speculation  as  to  how  such  things  came 
there.  Indeed,  I  am  not  going  to  deuj'  having 
done  such  things,  and  I  look  with  interest  on  the 
now  colonised  subjects  which,  if  dwarfer  than 
usual,  are  certainly  not  without  attraction.  It 
is  when  we  see  such  subjects  as  Arbor-vitie, 
Yew,  Gorse  and  other  plants  of  a  woody  nature 
growing  on  the  face  of  a  dry  brick  wall  that  we 
are  apt  to  enquire  what  may  not  be  grown  in 
positions  a  little  more  favoured  than  these. 
Where  a  roof  is  being  ccnstructed  with  some 
idea  of  subsequent  planting  it  can  be  made  of  a 
sufficient  strength  ;  but  where  it  is  of  long 
standing  its  strength  must  be  first  ascertained. 
If  a  choice  can  be  made,  the  nearly  flat  roof 
would  receive  the  greatest  number  of  votes  for 
many  reasons  which  will  be  clear  to  all.  Next  in 
importance  is  the  provision  of  a  body  of  suit- 
able soil,  which  may  vary  from  '2  inches  to 
i  inches  in  thickness,  and  if  composed  of  rather 
clayey  loam  with  finely  pulverised  old  mortar 
freely  interspersed,  the  mixture  will  be  found  to 
suit  many  plants. 

With  such  an  assured  depth  of  soil  resting  on 
a  oool  tiled  bottom,  many  plants  will  be  quite  at 
home,  and  nothing  more  will  be  required  beyond 
fixing  a   board  at  the  sides   to  keep  the  soil  in 


162 


THE     GARDEN. 


[April  3,  1909. 


position.  In  certain  instances  small  pieoes  of 
sandstone  could  be  introduced  to  fix  the  plants 
against,  and  this  may  be  done  the  more  freely  in 
those  instances  where  it  is  decided  to  confine  the 
work  to  the  planting  of  such  subjects  as 
Sempervivums,  Sedums,  the  hardy  Opuntias 
and  similar  plants.  As  these  may  indeed 
constitute  a  very  delightful  gathering,  I  give  at 
once  the  names  of  the  more  conspicuous  or 
worthy  kinds.  Of  Sempervivums,  S.  teotorum, 
the  roof  Houseleek,  is  excellent,  and  in  no  way 
inferior  are  such  as  arachnoideum  in  variety,  the 
very  fine  ealcaratum  and  oalcareum,  triste, 
Regina  Anialiae  and  many  more.  The  Cobweb 
Houseleek  should  be  largely  grown  and,  pricked 
out  over  a  large  area,  will  make  a  most  effective 
mass.  Such  Sedums  as  albidum,  glaucum, 
Ewersi  and  dasyphyllum  should  be  seen  among 
many  sorts,  while  of  Opuntias,  0.  humilis  and 
0.  rafinesquiana  should  be  prominent.  That 
fine  hardy  Mesembryanthemum,  M.  uncinatum, 
will  delight  in  such  a  place,  and  will,  moreover, 
show  to  advantage. 

Then  in  a  general  way,  not  only  those  men- 
tioned, but  such  as  Aubrietias,  Wallflowers, 
Snapdragons,  Thrift  (a  capital  plant  alone), 
various  species  of  Dianthus,  such  as  fimbriata, 
deltoidea  and  others,  and  which  make  fine 
patches  of  flower,  Corydalis  lutea,  a  selection  of 
the  encrusted  Saxifragas,  Erinus  in  variety,  Cam- 
panula fragilis,  C.  muralis,  any  of  the  silvery- 
leaved  Acliilleas,  alpine  and  Iceland  Poppies  and, 
experimentally,  such  plants  as  Androsace  lanu- 
ginosa, Onosma  taurica  and  Thymus  lanuginosa 
may  be  used.  There  is  also  the  so-called 
roof  Iris  of  Japan  (I.  tectorum),  and  with  it 
might  be  associated  others  of  the  pumila  section 
or  their  near  allies.  Where  these  Irises  are 
grown  a  modified  growth  only  could  be  looked 
tor,  and  the  same  remark  would  apply  to  Sedum 
speotabile  and  to  the  Poppies  and  Wallflowers 
previously  named.  The  idea  of  gardening  in 
such  out-of-the-way  positions  has  for  its  aim  a 
purpose  of  its  own,  and  there  is  not  the  smallest 
reason  why,  with  a  little  care  and  intelligence, 
its  purpose  may  not  be  fully  realised. 

Hampton  Hill.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 
APRIL. 


THE  BEST  PERENNIALS  AND  BIEN- 
NIALS FOR  THE  GARDEN  AND 
HOW  TO  RAISE  THEM  FROM  SEED. 


A  FifBt  PrUe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A    Second  Prize   of  TVO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  PrUe  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  PrUe  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on    the  above 
subject. 

Attention  should  be  given  to  the  time  of  sowing, 
best  soil  to  use  and  other  cultural  details. 

The  notes  (restricted  to  1,5UU  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  Thh  Oabdbn,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Friday,  April  30.  Both  amateur  and  pro- 
fessional gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Gabdbn  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSB.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editt  r's 
aeuision  is  final 


NOTES    OF   THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

April  6. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  1—6  p.m.  Lecture 
at  three  o'clock  on  "  Illustrations  of  the  Effects 
of  the  Forces  of  Growth,"  by  the  Rev.  Professor 
G.  Henslow,  V.M.H. 

April  7  and  8. — Royal  Caledonian  Horti- 
cultural Society's  Spring  Show. 


Swede   Tupnip   grreens.— In  ancient 

days,  when  there  was  less  demand  from  market 
dealers  for  all  sorts  of  Turnip  tops  or  greens, 
farmers  allowed  their  poorer  neighbours  to  enter 
their  fields  in  the  spring  and  gather  both  white 
Turnip  and  Swede  Turnip  tops.  Now,  what 
with  the  demand  of  market  dealers  and  the 
more  general  practice  of  lifting  roots  in  early 
winter  and  storing  them  in  pits  or  clams,  it  is 
a  rare  circumstance  that  Swede  greens  are 
available  to  anyone  ;  yet  of  all  spring  greens 
that  the  Brassica  family  produce,  none  is  more 
delicious  eating  than  are  those  gathered  from 
Swede  Turnips  when  they  bolt  off  to  flower  in 
the  spring.  One  wonders  that  gardeners  do  not 
grow  a  few  dozen  Swede  bulbs  and,  storing 
them  in  a  cool  place  during  winter,  plant  them 
rather  close  together  in  a  frame  on  gentle 
warmth  in  early  spring.  From  such  a  planting 
they  would  get  a  wonderful  lot  of  delicious, 
tender  tops.  Just  now,  because  of  the  hard 
weather,  we  have  such  a  winter-green  famine, 
how  very  voluable  for  such  purposes  as  is  named 
a  good  quantity  of  stored  Swede  roots  would 
be.— A.  D. 

PaPSley  tPia.lS. — Last  summer  a  large  trial 
of  Parsleys  was  conducted  in  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Gardens,  Wisley.  It  was  specially  notice- 
able that  out  of  the  large  number  of  stocks 
grown,  and  they  ran  into  scores,  of  ordinary 
garden  Parsleys  there  were  only  about  three 
distinct  sorts.  These  were  extra  strong  curled 
or  market  Parsley  ;  medium  but  finely  curled 
and  robust  garden  Parsley  ;  and  the  more  fine- 
leaved  form  known  as  Fern  or  Moss-curled 
Parsley.  Could  these  respective  sections  have 
been  massed  together,  very  little  difiierence 
would  have  been  found  in  either  case.  A  fourth 
variety  or  section  was  the  coarse  Sheep's 
Parsley,  one  admirable  for  stock  feeding,  but  of 
no  garden  value.  When  these  Parsleys  were  last 
seen  by  the  fruit  and  vegetable  committee  in  the 
autumn  it  was  agreed  to  advise  that  a  report  as 
to  the  hardiness  of  each  stock  be  furnished  this 
spring.  Mr.  Wright,  the  superintendent,  so 
reported  at  a  recent  meeting,  and  said  that  not 
more  than  5  per  cent,  of  the  whole  breadth  had 
been  injured  by  frost.  This  was  very  satis- 
factory. At  Welbeok  Mr.  Gibson  had  to 
experience  the  total  destruction  of  outdoor 
Parsleys.  Such  is  the  difference  seen  in  these 
localities. — A.  D. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 


EupatOiPe  en  aPbPe.  —  Adverting  to 
your  interesting  note  that  appeared  on  page  86, 
the  plant  referred  to,  though  we  have  not  Mrs. 
Bardswell's  note  before  us,  is  Eupatorium 
weinnemaniana,  which  is  the  superseded  title  for 
E.  macranthum  (large  flowered) — not  micranthum 
— which  luxuriates  here  perennially  immune  to 
frost  injury,  and  is  of  rapid  growth  and  quite 
arborescent.  It  flowers  continuously  from  mid- 
October  or  November  till  early  in  February.  It 
is  usually  regarded  as  a  greenhouse  subject,  but, 
as  indicated,  is  perfectly  happy  in  the  open  here 
at  500  feet  elevation,  two  miles  from  the  sea. 
— Pennick  and  Co. ,  Vulyavi/  Xurseries,  County 
Wichlow. 


Double  -  floweped    Cyclamen.  — It 

may  interest  Mr.  Humphreys,  also  "  T.  C,"  to 
know  that  we  had  a  double-flowered  form  of 
Cyclamen  last  spring.  The  colour  was  white, 
and  the  plant  was  isolated  and  seed  saved  ;  but, 
of  course,  I  cannot  say  what  percentage  will 
come  so  again.  The  seeds  were  certainly  of 
good  size.  It  is  rather  interesting  that  doubling 
in  the  Cyclamen  does  not  result  {as  is  generally 
the  case)  from  the  stamens  and  stigma  altering 
into  petals,  because  both  are  normal,  but  extra 
petals  are  produced.  The  doubling  seems  to 
arise  rather  from  an  excess  of  vigour  in  the 
plant  similar  to  the  short  branches  some  corme 
produce.  Certainly  the  double  flowers  are  of 
grand  form  and  substance. — W.  P.  Wood,  St. 
Peter  s,  Kent. 

Sowing^  Sweet  Peas.— There  is  one 
point  which  I  notice  has  not  been  touched  on  in 
any  of  the  articles  on  Sweet  Peas  which  have 
lately  appeared  in  your  paper,  that  is,  the 
preparation  of  the  seeds  before  sowing.  The 
novice  who  buys  a  novelty  and  gets  perhaps  ten 
seeds  for  a  shilling  is  often  disappointed  because 
so  few  of  them  germinate.  This  could  be 
obviated  if  the  seeds  were  chipped  before  sowing, 
just  enough  of  the  hard  shell  being  removed  with 
a  sharp  penknife  to  show  the  yellow  seed  within. 
John  Ingman,  Countess  Spencer  and  The  King 
should  all  be  chipped,  and  it  is  a  safe  rule  to 
chip  all  the  black-seeded  varieties.  The  lavenders, 
yellows  and  whites  do  not  require  it.  I  venture 
to  suggest  that  the  above  hint  may  perhaps  save 
a  few  novices  from  a  disappointment  which  I 
have  myself  experienced. — C.  E.  K. 

A  white  Clianthus.— I  noticed  in  The 
Garden  of  .January  16  that  you  had  received 
from  Mr.  S.  W.  Fitzherbert,  South  Devon, 
flowers  of  a  white  form  of  Clianthus  puniceus. 
I  think  there  must  be  some  mistake,  as  I  have 
never  heard  of  a  white-flowered  kind  of  this 
plant.  The  variety  is  more  likely  to  be  Clianthus 
Dampieri  alba,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the 
Dutch  Flag,  possibly  from  it  colouring,  white  and 
red.  I  noticed  in  our  greenhouse  the  other  day 
that  some  of  our  plants  of  this  had  flowers  well 
advanced  and  almost  ready  to  open.  I  have  much 
pleasure  in  sending  you  a  photograph  of  this 
variety  for  comparison,  also  one  of  Clianthus 
Dampieri  as  grown  here  last  summer. — J. 
Machar,  Fothrinrjham,  Forfar,  N.B.  [There  is 
a  white  form  of  Clianthus  puniceus  which  was 
introduced  ten  or  twelve  years  ago  and  is  by  this 
time  well  known.  It  has  nothing  to  do  with 
Clianthus  Dampieri. — Ed.] 

Clubbing:  in  BraaBicas.— In  writing 

on  this  subject  in  your  issue  for  February  20, 
your  correspondent  "  Auti  Club  "seems  to  be 
quite  unaware  of  the  real  cause  of  the  disease, 
which  is  a  fungus  and  not  white  grubs,  which 
are  the  larvfe  of  one  of  the  weevils  (Ceutor- 
rhynchus  sulcicoUis).  The  attacks  of  this  insect 
do  not  cause  clubbing,  but  only  the  formation  of 
rounded,  knob-like  excrescences  on  the  roots, 
which  are  really  galls,  caused  by  the  feeding  of 
the  grubs  near  the  surface  of  the  roots,  and 
which  can  easily  be  out  or  picked  off.  These 
galls  cannot  be  mistaken  for  clubbing,  club 
root,  finger  and  toe,  anbury,  or  by  whatever 
name  the  disease  goes  by,  the  cause  of  which  is 
one  of  the  slime  fungi,  known  as  Plasmodio- 
phora  brassicaB.  The  spores,  which  are  in 
the  ground,  enter  the  plant  by  one  of  the 
rootlets  as  little  slimy  masses,  which  gradually 
increase  in  size,  filling  up  the  cells  of  the  root, 
and  causing  it  to  swell  and  become  distorted. 
These  slimy  masses  eventually  become  changed 
into  an  enormous  number  of  round  spores,  which, 
when  the  infested  parts  of  the  roots  begin  to 
decay,  are  brought  into  contact  with  the  soil, 
when  they  burst  and  a  minute  slimy  mass  is 
liberated,  which  has  the  power  of  moving  over 
and  through  the  soil.  As  the  spores  can  remain 
in  the  soil  alive  for  considerably  more  than  a 
year,  it  is  most  necessary  not  to  plant  any 
cruciferous   crop  on   ground   tainted   with   this 


April  3,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


163 


peat  for  at  least  two  years,  and  every  care 
should  be  taken  to  prevent  portions  of  the 
infected  soil  being  carried  from  one  part  of  the 
land  to  another  on  garden  tools,  boots,  &o.  All 
cruciferous  weeds  should  be  exterminated,  and 
every  morsel  of  a  diseased  crop  burnt  at  once 
and  not  allowed  to  remain  lying  about  on  the 
soil.  Quicklime  at  the  rate  of  seventy-five  bushels 
per  acre  is  the  best  dressing.  Artificial  manures 
containing  acids,  sulphates,  or  phosphates 
should  be  avoided. — 6.  S.  S. 

Does    not     your    correspondent     "  Anti 

Club "  (page  87)  misread  Mr.  Crook  in  the  issue 
for  January  30 '!  As  I  read  Mr.  Crook's  article, 
he  refers  to  club  root,  while  "Anti  Club"  cer- 
tainly refers  to  the  swellings  caused  by  the  gall 
weevil.  These  two  things  are  quite  distinct, 
although  often  classed  together.  One  is  caused 
by  a  fungus  (Plasmodiophora  brassicfe)  and  the 
other  by  the  gall  weevil  (Ceutorrhynohus  sul- 
cicollis).  Their  very  names  are  formidable. 
Mr.  Massee  in  "Plant  Diseases"  recommends  a 
dressing  of  quicklime — seventy-five  bushels  per 
acre.  I  have  tried  this  (perhaps  a  slightly 
heavier  dressing)  on  the  seed-bed  about  a  fort- 
night before  the  seeds  were  sown  and  the  plants 
always  came  out  clean,  with  no  trace  of  disease, 
and,  what  is  more,  they  remained  free  from  the 
pest  ;  but  where  we  plant  an  extra  row  without 
liming  they  are  diseased.  It  is  generally  held 
that  disease  can  only  attack  the  plant  in  a  young 
state.  We  slake  the  lime  on  the  ground  and 
lightly  point  it  in  with  a  fork.  These  remarks 
are  confirmed  by  what  Mr.  Crook  says  with 
reference  to  his  neighbour  having  no  disease 
now  he  limes  his  ground. — W.  P.  Wood,  Oaklmuls 
Court,  St.  Peter's,  Kent. 

Much  has  been  said  from  time  to  time 

respecting  this  troublesome  pest.  I  find  there 
is  nothing  to  cure  clubbing  quicker  or  better  than 
Veltha.  I  have  used  it  freely  and  can  speak 
from  experience  as  to  its  results.  A  little  should 
be  sprinkled  on  the  seed-bed  before  sowing  and 
about  a  teaspoonful  round  each  plant  after  plant- 
ing, besides  working  a  little  into  the  soil  when 
digging  the  quarter  for  planting.  It  is  also  one 
of  the  best  fertilisers  for  Tomatoes.  Of  course, 
Veltha  is  a  strong  preparation  and  requires 
careful  using. — J.  S.  Hiogins,  RiVj  Gardens. 

A  generally  mistaken  idea  seems  to  exist 

in  the  minds  of  many  gardeners  as  to  what  club 
root,  finger  and  toe,  and  anbury,  as  it  is  variously 
called,  really  is.  Many  oases  of  so-called  club 
root  which  have  come  under  the  writer's  notice 
have  proved  to  be  gall  weevil  (Ceutorrhynchus 
BulcieoUis)  an  insect  the  grubs  of  which  feed 
upon  the  soft  part  of  the  stem  and  roots,  thus 
setting  up  the  gall-like  swellings  which  many 
mistake  for  club  root.  Club  root  is  a  fungoid 
disease  (Plasmodiophora  brassicae)  which  attacks 
Cabbages,  Turnips  and  allied  plants,  often 
proving  very  destructive.  It  belongs  to  the 
family  of  Myxomycetes,  or  slime  fungi,  and  is  so 
very  minute  that  it  can  only  be  studied  under  a 
.powerful  microscope.  It  is  fairly  prevalent  all 
over  the  country,  especially  in  districts  where 
ithe  soil  is  deficient  in  lime.  Clubbing  commonly 
makes  its  appearance  at  an  early  period  in  the 
life  of  a  plant,  a  slight  swelling  of  the  root  and 
^flagging  foliage  being  the  first  signs  of  attack. 
ILater  in  the  season  the  roots  assume  a  knotted, 
•  club-like  appearance,  which  ultimately  develop 
^into  a  slime-like  mass.  If  an  affected  plant  be 
'examined  in  its  early  stages  the  rootlets  will  be 
■seen  to  be  swollen  with  spindle-shaped  swellings ; 
lit  is  this  spindle  -  shaped  swelling  which  is 
characteristic  of  club  root,  as  distinguished  from 
the  abrupt  tuberous  swellings  generally  caused 
by  insects.  This  disease,  like  many  other  forms 
of  fungi,  is  very  infectious,  and  is  capable  of 
existing  in  the  soil  for  several  years  in  a  resting 
state.  As  already  stated,  it  is  nearly  always 
present  in  soils  deficient  in  lime.  Bearing  this 
fact  in  mind,  one  naturally  arrives  at  the  con- 
clusion— a  correct  one — that  a  dressing  of  lime  is 
the  best  remedy.     This  can  be  applied  either  in 


the  form  of  gas  lime,  where  the  disease  is  bad, 
at  the  rate  of  161b.  to  the  square  rod  (30J  square 
yards),  or  slaked  lime,  201b.  to  the  square  rod,  to 
be  applied  during  the  winter.  The  importance 
of  lime  in  the  soil,  not  only  as  a  remedy  for  club 
root  but  for  the  benefit  of  crops  generally,  cannot 
be  over-estimated.  Of  the  many  cases  of  club 
root  with  which  the  writer  has  had  to  deal,  the 
soil  upon  examination  has,  almost  without  excep- 
tion, proved  to  be  deficient  In  lime.  The  greatest 
care  should  be  exercised  to  remove  every  vestige 
of  refuse  from  the  land  after  the  crop  has  been 
taken  oflf.  This  should  be  burnt.  Do  not,  under 
any  circumstances,  wheel  it  on  to  the  rubbish- 
heap,  that  dreaded  "nursing  home"  for  all  forms 
of  plant  diseases  and  insect  pests.  It  is  very 
good  practice  when  planting  Cabbages  to  dip  the 
roots  into  a  mixture  of  soot,  clay  and  lime,  with 
sufficient  water  to  make  it  into  puddle.  Weeds, 
especially  Charlock,  must  be  rigorously  kept 
down,  as  it  is  in  such  plants  that  the  fungus 
lives  when  the  ground  is  not  under  a  cruciferous 
crop.  It  is  advisable  to  avoid  growing  a  crop  of 
either  Cabbages  or  Turnips  for  at  least  two 
seasons  on  ground  which  has  become  affected. 
Gall  weevil  can  readily  be  recognised  if  one  of 
the  swellings  be  cut  open.  It  will  be  found  to 
contain  a  whitish  grub.  An  application  of  lime 
as  recommended  for  club  root  will  give  very  good 
results  if  applied  after  the  crop  has  been  taken 
off ;  also  dipping  the  roots  in  the  same  mixture 
will  act  as  a  preventive.  Paraffin  sprinkled  on 
sand  and  then  scattered  over  the  seed-bed  will 
prevent  the  insect  laying  eggs  on  the  seedling 
stems. — C.  C. 

Gladiolus  gandavensis.— I  regret 
very  much  that  in  my  article  of  March  20 
on  the  above  I  did  not  include  among 
the  British  workers  in  this  field  the  firm  of 
Messrs.  J.  Burrell  and  Co  of  Cambridge.  For 
over  twenty  years  they  have  annually  raised, 
except  in  oue  or  two  exceptional  seasons,  a  large 
number  of  seedlings.  Their  particular  aim  has 
been  to  produce  varieties  that  will  open  long 
spikes  of  bloom  at  one  time,  while  the  size  and 
substance  of  the  individual  flowers  have  not 
been  forgotten.  Owing  to  the  shyness  of  so 
many  of  the  best  varieties  in  producing  "spawn," 
Messrs.  Burrell  have  been  led,  like  Mr.  Groff  in 
Canada,  to  rather  concentrate  their  efforts  on 
producing  mixed  seedlings  of  good  enough 
quality  for  garden  and  even  exhibition  purposes. 
—Joseph  Jacob. 

W^hen  to  plant  fruit  trees.  —  My 

answer  to  this  question  is  during  October  and 
November  whenever  possible,  or  even  earlier 
when  dealing  with  Peaches  or  Nectarines, 
which  I  should  prefer  to  plant  during  the  last 
week  in  September.  Fruit  trees  may  be  planted 
any  time  from  September  to  April  with  successful 
results  on  well-drained  soils  ;  but  I  do  not  agree 
with  planting  at  midwinter  only  in  exceptional 
cases  and  on  warm  soils,  and  even  then  a  mulch 
of  rather  strawy  manure  should  be  placed  over 
the  roots  for  protection.  Planters  of  fruit  trees 
should  note  the  advice  given  by  "Fruit-grower  " 
(page  91),  especially  the  last  two  lines,  where  he 
says,  referring  to  the  work  of  planting,  "  in  no 
circumstances  must  the  work  be  scamped — do  it 
well  if  the  finest  results  are  desired. "  This  strikes 
at  the  root  of  the  matter,  for  it  is  impossible  to 
do  the  work  well  if  the  ground  is  not  well  pre- 
pared and  the  soil  is  in  a  wet  or  boggy  condi- 
tion. Fruit  trees  with  a  quantity  of  fibrous  roots 
may  be  planted  late  in  March  with  good  results, 
especially  Apples.  Several  seasons  since  I  planted 
some  fine  bush  trees  of  Grange's  Pearmain  Apple 
on  the  last  day  in  March  and  the  trees  carried 
two  or  three  fine  fruits  the  first  season.  These 
trees  were  in  splendid  condition  for  removal, 
having  clean  growth  and  a  mass  of  fibrous  roots, 
the  result  of  careful  preparation  at  the  nursery 
from  whence  they  were  procured.  Secure  good 
trees,  prepare  the  soil  thoroughly  and  plant 
during  autumn — or  spring  if  the  work  cannot  be 
completed  at  that  time. — C.  Ruse. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


HOW    TO    GKOW    FRUIT    TREES    IN 
POTS. 

(Gontinued  Jrom  pane  lolf.) 

WE  find  occasionally,  when  potting 
the  earliest  trees,  that  the 
foliage  will  droop  afterwards 
when  the  weather  is  fine, 
warm  and  sunny.  This  we  do 
not  mind,  but  we  do  not  like 
to  see  any  of  the  wood  shrivel.  To  remedy  this 
the  trees  are  syringed  daily  once  or  twice,  and 
oftener  if  the  weather  is  very  warm  or  sunny. 
We  used  to  stand  the  trees  when  first  repotted 
outside  again  upon  boards  or  bricks,  in  order  to 
keep  them  free  from  worms  and  to  avoid  any 
excess  of  moisture.  Finding  the  second  move 
into  the  houses  a  few  weeks  later  to  occasion 
rather  too  much  additional  labour,  we  altered 
this  procedure,  and  now  instead  the  trees 
are  stood  as  close  together  as  they  can  be 
arranged  in  one  of  the  larger  houses.  Here  they 
remain  until  the  earliest  are  wanted  by  the  end 
of  November  to  place  into  the  house  that  is  first 
to  be  started.  I  do  not  wish  to  imply  that  it  is 
unsafe  to  stand  them  out  of  doors,  but  it  answers 
our  purpose  not  to  do  so.  The  foregoing  remarks 
have  reference  to  the  stock  of  trees  that  are 
forced.  Those  that  are  not  forced  can  be  placed 
close  together  in  an  open  position,  guarding 
against  worms,  as  already  mentioned,  or  by  the 
use  of  a  good  layer  of  ashes  under  the  pots.  Later 
on,  and  before  sharp  frosts  occur,  the  pots  should 
be  protected  either  by  a  covering  of  long  stable 
litter  worked  in  between  them,  and  upon  the 
tops  also,  as  a  protection  against  frost.  Another 
plan,  and  one  which  we  now  adopt,  is  to  stand 
them  close  together  in  a  house  that  is  absolutely 
cold.  Here  they  can  be  plunged  in  ashes  over 
the  rims,  and  in  such  a  position  there  is  no 
danger  from  depredations  by  birds  feeding  upon 
the  buds  when  netting  is  used  to  keep  them  out. 
When  left  out  of  doors  the  trees  should  certainly 
be  netted  until  the  spring,  when  the  blossoms 
are  on  the  point  of  opening ;  then  room  should  be 
found  for  them  in  a  cold  house  as  a  safeguard 
against  frost. 

Potting. 
The  question  has  frequentlv  been  asked.  Do 
we  pot  the  trees  every  year  ?  The  answer  is. 
Yes,  we  do.  This  reply  has  often  created  some 
surprise,  and  by  some,  who  have  nob  had  many 
years'  experience,  it  has  been  deemed  unnecessary 
labour  ;  but  it  is  not  so.  Occasionally  we  let  a 
few  trees  stand  over ;  these  are  mostly  those  that 
for  some  reason  have  not  borne  an  average  crop 
of  fruit.  Every  tree  is  taken  out  of  its  pot, 
carefully  of  course,  then  the  ball  of  soil  reduced 
all  over,  so  much  so  that  we  can  replace  it 
in  the  same  size  pot  again.  The  exception  to 
this  rule  is  when  a  tree  has  prospered  unusually 
well,  then  a  pot  one  size  larger  is  provided  for 
it.  The  ball  is  reduced  sufficiently  to  allow  for 
fresh  soil  all  around  it,  a  good  guide  being  that 
of  enough  room  for  the  open  hands  to  pass  freely 
down  between  the  pot  and  the  ball.  In  this 
way  it  is  possible  for  the  fresh  soil  to  be  rammed 
down  firmly,  this  being  a  most  important  item  of 
procedure.  I  believe  that  in  this  annual  shaking 
out  and  repotting  lies  one  of  the  chief  essentials 
to  success.  When  turning  out  a  plant  with  the 
ball,  as  it  were,  a  solid  mass  of  roots,  it  does  not, 
on  the  face  of  it,  seem  the  best  course  to  pursue. 
The  roots  are  healthy  and  vigorous ;  it  would 
therefore  appear  that  the  better  plan  to  adopt 
would  be  to  repot  into  a  larger  size  without 
disturbing  the  roots  to  any  extent.  This,  how- 
ever, is  very  far  from  being  the  best  course  to 
adopt  in  the  case  of  these  fruit  trees.  The 
reducing  of  the  ball  causes  a  multiplicity  of  fine 
fibrous  roots  to  be  made,  and  that  further  back 
upon  the  roots  of  larger  size  than  would  other- 
wise be  the  case ;  whereas,  if  not  so  treated, 
the    roots  would    be    too    luxuriant    the    next 


164 


THE     GARDEN. 


[April's,  1909. 


season,  and  this  would  have  its  corresponding 
action  in  the  branches.  This  is  brought  about 
by  a  greater  supply  of  water  b«ing  required 
when  the  majority  of  the  feeding  roots  are  next 
to  tbe  pot  itself. 

Another  reason  why  the  annual  potting  is  so 
essential  arises  from  the  fact  of  the  soil  added 
the  previous  year  being  to  a  great  extent 
exhausted  and  non-productive  of  fruit-buds  ;  and 
although  the  roots  in  the  autumn  are  vigorous 
and  healthy,  like  the  tree  itself,  yet  if  not  so 
treated  they  would  be,  before  the  end  of  another 
season,  in  an  absolute  state  of  poverty.  Thus 
the  tree  would  be  left  in  a  poor  condition  for  the 
year  following,  ?'.  e. ,  the  third  year  from  potting, 
with  the  prosjiect  of  failure  in  store.  When  such 
a  tree  is  eventually  potted  the  roots  that  have 
to  be  removed  are  far  and  away  greater  than  if 
potted  every  year.  I  am  aware  that  it  may  be 
said  "  Use  manurial  stimulants,"  but  when  such 
are  applied  with  the  soil  in  a  poor  state  to  receive 
them,  the  benefits  that  should  accrue  are  much 
less.  James  Hudson,  V.M.H. 

(To  be  continued. ) 


FRUIT   NOTES. 

Prunini!  Newly  Planted  Trees. — It  is  clearly 
understood  by  cultivators  of  experience  that  if 


materially  object  to  this  lapse  of  time  ;  but  the 
chances  are  in  favour  of  the  grower  not  being 
able  to  find  it  in  his  heart  to  cut  right  back,  with 
the  consequence  that  the  lower  portions  of  the 
shoots  will  be  devoid  of  buds  and  the  tree  will 
never  be  fully  satisfactory.  In  all  circumstances 
save  one,  to  which  special  allusion  will  be  made, 
it  may  fairly  be  regarded  as  sound  practice  to 
cut  in  the  same  season  and  never  to  be  sparing 
in  the  use  of  the  knife  at  this  stage. 

It  may  be  safely  assumed  that  the  vast 
majority  of  trees  are  planted  in  the  autumn,  and 
if  the  pruning  back  of  these  is  left  until  the 
upper  buds  have  started  in  the  spring,  well  and 
good  ;  but  a  three  year  old  tree  should  always 
have  its  shoots  reduced  by  at  least  two-thirds 
of  their  length  either  in  the  autumn  of  planting 
or  the  spring  immediately  succeeding.  When 
the  operations  are  carried  out  in  the  spring,  the 
desirability  or  otherwise  of  cutting  back  at  once 
is  governed  largely  by  local  conditions.  If  the 
work  can  be  completed  by  the  end  of  February 
and  the  soil  is  deep  and  good,  then  it  is  per- 
missible to  prune  after  the  buds  on  the  extremi- 
ties of  the  growths  have  started,  as  this  may  be 
taken  as  a  clear  indication  that  the  rooting 
system  is  in  a  sound  working  state  and  that 
abundance  of  food  will  be  taken  up.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  the  soil  is  shallow  and  poor  and  it 


WBLL-FLOWBRED   SPRAYS  OF  ROSA   WICHDRAIANA  ALBA   tiKOWN   IN   THE  GARDENS  OF  SIR   WALTER 
SMYTHE,   BART.,   ACTON   BARNBTT,   SHREWSBURY. 


one  is  to  secure  the  most  profitable  returns  from 
fruit  trees  over  the  longest  possible  period  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  form  the  foundation  of 
the  tree  on  a  sound  basis  before  it  is  allowed  to 
carry  a  crop.  Unfortunately,  with  many 
amateurs  the  idea  prevails  that  directly  a  tree 
is  in  it  should  fruit,  and  in  encouraging  this  they 
so  stunt  the  growth  of  the  tree  that  it  is  practi- 
cally impossible  to  restore  it  to  a  satisfactory 
condition  again  for  several  years  ;  indeed,  in  the 
majority  of  instances  the  best  thing  to  do  with  a 
tree  that  has  been  thus  incorrectly  treated  is  to 
take  it  up  and  burn  it  forthwith.  The  desire  for 
fruit  is  natural,  but  it  should  never  be  allowed  to 
go  as  far  as  to  prejudice  the  prospects  of  a 
protracted  and  profitable  life.  Ensure  perfect 
establishment  and  a  sound  rooting  system  ;  then 
crop. 

During  recent  years  there  have  been  innumer- 
able discussions  as  to  whether  a  fruit  tree  should 
be  planted  immediately  it  is  placed  in  its  perma- 
nent position  or  whether  the  operation  should  be 
deferred  for  a  season.  If  one  could  be  sure  that 
the  cutting  back  at  the  end  of  the  first  year 
would   be   properly  carried  out,  one  would  not 


is  impossible  to  deeply  cultivate  and  enrich  it, 
then  the  wisdom  of  immediate  cutting  is 
extremely  doubtful ;  as  a  matter  of  fact,  when 
these  conditions  prevail  and  pruning  is  done  at 
once  the  buds  start  very  tardily,  and  the  shoots 
which  result  are  commonly  weak  and  poor. 

The  case,  then,  practically  resolves  itself  into 
one  in  which  each  planter  must  exercise  his 
individual  judgment  according  to  the  local  con- 
ditions. He  should,  first  of  all,  most  carefully 
consider  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  then  the  time 
of  the  year  at  which  the  planting  was  done,  and 
settle  the  matter  for  himself  ;  but  there  should 
be  no  deviation  from  the  rule  of  hard  cutting 
back  in  such  a  manner  that  the  foundation  shall 
be  established  before  the  trees  are  allowed  to 
carry  a  crop  of  fruit.  If  Apples  and  Pears  were 
plants  that  ran  themselves  out  in  a  year  or  two, 
the  matter  would  be  very  diiTerent ;  but  as  they 
are  plants  which  grow  steadily  into  a  profitable 
state,  the  results  will  be  the  more  satisfactory  from 
the  outset  onwards  if  the  rule  is  adhered  to  that 
two-thirds  of  the  young  shoots  shall  be  removed 
either  in  the  season  of  planting  or  the  one  im- 
mediitely  following  upon  it.      FRUiT-iiROWER. 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 


ROSE    CHATEAU    DE    CLOS 
VOUGEOT. 
A   LTHOUGH  M.  Pernet-Ducher  cannot  be 
/%  complimented  upon  choosing  such  a 

/   %         ponderous  name  for   one  of  his  pro- 

/  ^  ductions,  I  imagine  growers  will 
£  J^  overlook  this  and  give  the  variety 
a  warm  welcome,  for  it  supplies  yet 
another  to  the  steadily  increasing  number  of 
dark-coloured  Hybrid  Teas.  There  is  something 
about  the  Rose,  probably  its  quaint  form,  that 
suggests  Princesse  de  Sagan  to  one's  mind  ;  but 
it  is  a  far  mcJre  superb  bloom,  and  although  there 
is  not  so  much  scarlet  in  its  colouring,  there  is 
the  rich  velvety  crimson  shading  which  all  will 
welcome.  The  bloom  has  some  small  resemblance 
to  Etoile  de  France,  minus  its  faults,  and  I 
should  venture  a  guess  that  it  is  an  offspring  of 
that  variety,  for  it  seeds  freely.  I  have  used  it  both 
as  seed  and  pollen  parent  with  excellent  results. 

The  blooms  of  the  Rose  under  notice  are  quite 
large  in  size,  expansive  and  irregularly  formed, 
and  produced  singly  ;  but  its  dwarf,  spreading 
habit  will  make  it  a  useful  bedding  Rose.  Really 
it  may  be  termed  a  glorified  massing  Rose,  for 
what  it  lacks  in  numbers  it  compensates 
for  in  its  gorgeous  colour  and  huge  blooms. 
Roses  of  this  type  \.ill  soon  displace  such  sorts 
as  Marquise  de  Salisbury,  which  are  extremely 
disappointing  if  one  wishes  to  cut  them.  If  we 
can  have  our  bedding  and  massing  Roses  yielding 
blooms  of  quality,  this  will  be  most  welcome  to 
those  who  have  but  small  gardens  as  well  as  to 
those  who  grow  on  a  larger  scale. 

I  find  on  moving  about  that  the  general  public 
are  becoming  somewhat  tired  of  Rambler  Roses, 
as  they  are  for  the  small-flowered  massing  Roses. 
I  am  often  asked  to  name  Ruses  for  rambling 
having  blooms  of  quality,  and  the  same  as 
regards  bedding  Roses,  so  that  I  can  thoroughly 
recommend  the  Rose  under  notice  as  being  a 
most  worthy  addition  to  our  garden  Roses,  and 
as  it  is  sweetly  fragrant  and  wonderfully  free 
blooming  it  should  receive  a  hearty  welcome.    P. 


ROSA  WICHURAIANA  ALBA. 
This  Rose  is  probably  seen  to  best  advantage 
when  grown  as  a  5-feet  standard,  and  if  given  a 
favourable  position  forms  very  shapely  heads 
with  little  attention  in  the  way  of  training.  The 
miniature  dark,  glossy  foliage  is  practically 
evergreen,  and  when  in  bloom  this  variety 
has  a  very  pleasing  effect  and  is  well  worth 
possessing.  J.  L. 


ROSE  W.  E.  LIPPIATT. 
Exhibitors  will  find  in  this  fine  production  of 
Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons  a  Rose  that  will 
probably  surpass  Earl  of  Hufferin  in  its  staying 
powers.  We  all  know  what  a  splendid  Rose  this 
latter  is  in  certain  seasons  ;  but  it  is  not  constant 
and  its  growths  are  too  drooping  for  it  to  make 
an  interesting  bush.  To  grow  it  successfully  one 
must  either  tie  its  growths  to  sticks,  as  is  often 
necessary  with  heavy  Roses  like  Marie  Baumann, 
or  use  it  as  a  pillar  or  standard  Rose.  In  W.  E. 
Lippiatt,  however,  we  have  a  variety  whose 
growth  is  more  erect,  and  thus  likely  to  be  far 
more  useful.  The  flowers  are  very  full,  of  fine 
form,  pointed  and  of  large  size,  making  a  fine  back- 
row  flower.  The  colour  is  a  rich  velvety  crimson, 
shaded  maroon.  One  remarkable  feature  of  the 
Rose  is  its  powerful  fragrance,  so  much  so  that 
some  think  it  should  be  classed  with  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals.  It  seems  absurd  to  group  such  a 
Rose  as  this,  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  and 
Joseph  Hill  under  one  group  and  call  them 
Hybrid  Teas.  When  planting  this  variety  it 
will  be  advisable  to  place  it  well  in  the  back- 
ground, or  centre  if  the  bed  faces  both  ways,  so 
that  its  strong  growth  does  not  mar  others  in  the 
same  bed.  P. 


April  3,  1909.) 


THE    GAliDExM. 


165 


THE     GREENHOUSE 


ORCHIDS    FOR   AMATEURS. 
Calanthes. 

THIS  family  contains  both  evergreen  and 
deciduous  species,  and  it  is  the  latter 
group  which  I  intend  to  write  upon 
in  the  present  article.  There  are 
several  sections  of  the  Orchid  world 
that  can  be  successfully  grown  with 


be  open  an  inch  or  so  excepting  during  high  winds 
and  frosts.  As  the  bulbs  near  completion  and 
the  leaves  begin  to  decay,  the  amount  of  moisture, 
both  in  the  atmosphere  and  at  the  root,  is 
decreased,  but  not  entirely  withheld  till  after  the 
flower-spikes  are  cut.  When  the  latter  are 
removed  the  bulbs  may  be  either  stored  on  a 
shelf  in  their  pots,  or,  should  space  be  limited, 
the  old  soil  carefully  taken  away  and  the  bulbs 
set  in  boxes  with  a  little  silver  sand  around  the 
base  and  kept  on  the  dry  side  till  signs  of  life 
are  again  apparent ;  while  resting  a  temperature 
of  50°  to  .55'  is  sufficient.  It  is  sometimes 
suggested  that  a  cooler  temperature  be  pro- 
during  the  flowering  season ;  a  few 
if  the  house  is  dry,  will  do 
the   sprays   last   longer    in   per- 


other  subjects,  and  Calanthes  may  be  cited  as 
examples,  for  in  a  Melon  pit  or  a  light  position 
in  the  plant  stove  they  thrive  equally  as  well  as  |  vided 
if  given  a  separate  division  or  placed  among  the  '  degrees  lower, 
Dendrobiums.      About   the   end    of    March   the    no   harm,   and 

annual  repotting  should  be  taken  in  hand  ;  but  a  fection,  but  they  must  not  be  exposed  to  cold 
fortnight  or  so  previous  it  is 
advisable  to  mix  the  soil  and 
place  it  in  a  warm  house  to  pre- 
vent the  roots  being  chilled.  The 
soil  is  made  up  as  follows  :  One- 
half  good  fibrous  loam,  one-fourth 
lumpy  peat  and  one-fourth  partly 
decayed  Oak  leaves,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  chopped  sphagnum 
moss  and  a  small  quantity  of 
crushed  crocks  or  charcoal  to 
keep  the  whole  in  a  sweet  and 
porous  condition. 

Ordinary  flower-pots  prove  the 
most  suitable  receptacles,  and 
these  are  filled  one-fourth  of 
their  depth  with  drainage.  They 
will,  of  course,  vary  in  size  accord- 
ing to  the  quality  of  the  bulbs  ; 
but  a  bulb  7  inches  or  8  inches  in 
length  would  be  sufficient  for  a 
pot  6  inches  in  diameter,  and  so 
on  in  proportion.  If  large  speci- 
mens are  desired,  then  fairly 
deep  pans  (without  side  holes) 
may  be  used,  arranging  three  or 
four  bulbs  in  each.  The  vestita 
group  is  particularly  adapted  to 
this  mode  of  cultivation,  because 
when  in  flower  the  stems  have  a 
tendency  to  droop,  and  where 
they  can  be  suspended  a  pleasing 
effect  is  produced.  Before  com- 
mencing to  repot  it  is  best  to 
examine  each  bulb  and  select 
those  with  the  new  growth 
3  inches  or  4  inches  in  length 
and  roots  -just  appearing  at  the 
base.  Where  a  quantity  is 
grown,  only  a  certain  number 
will  be  ready ;  therefore  the 
remainder  should  wait  another 
week  or  ten  days.  When  the 
operation  is  finished,  the  soil 
ought  to  be  2  inches  below  the  rim ; 
this  permits  of  a  little  fresh  loam 
being  added  later  in  the  season, 
when  root  action  is  more  vigorous. 

Treatment    after    Repotting.  — 
The  plants  should  be    arranged 
near   the  glass  in   the   warmest 
division,  or  in  the  houses  noted 
above,    with    a    minimum    tem- 
perature   of    65°    Fahr.,    rising  5°  or 
midday,     and    watered     sparingly   for 
weeks  ;    but    the   surroundings 
moist    by    damping    the    floors 
between    the    pots   occasionally.      As   the  roots 
permeate  the  soil,  so  is  the  water  supply  gradually 
increased,  and  directly  the  new  bulb  is  formed 
they   must    never   suffer    from    drought.     Only 
sufficient  shade  is  required  to  keep  the  foliage 
from    scorching,    and    as    the    bulbs    approach 
maturity    it    can    be    entirely    dispensed    with. 
A     sweet,     buoyant    atmosphere     is     essential 
throughout  the  growing  period,  and  to  assist  in 
this  direction  a  little  top  air  should  be  given 
whenever  the  elements  warrant  the  ventilators 
being  opened,  while  the  bottom  ones  can  always 


Chrysanthemum  with  a  large,  unwieldy  plant 
quite  unsuited  to  his  small  house.  By  rooting  the 
cuttings  much  later  in  the  year,  however,  it  is 
possible  to  obtain  sturdy  plants  2  feet  to  .3  feet 
in  height,  in  6-inch  (32  size)  pots,  such  as  the 
one  shown  in  the  illustration.  The  cutting 
from  which  this  plant  was  grown  was  inserted 
early  in  April.  At  this  season  cuttings  root 
readily  under  a  hand-light  or  garden  frame, 
provided  no  air  is  admitted  for  about  three 
weeks.  When  rooted,  pot  the  cuttings  off 
singly  in  3^-inoh  (60  size)  pots,  returning  them 
to  the  frame  for  a  few  days  till  rooted  in  the 
new  soil,  after  which  air  may  be  gradually 
admitted  and  the  plants  eventually  placed 
outside.  When  about  4  inches  high  remove  the 
points  of  the  shoots  ;  this  will  cause  each  plant 
to  make  three  or  four  growths.  As  soon  as  the 
new  shoots  are  2  inches  in  length, 
place  the  plants  in  the  pots  in 
which  they  are  to  flower,  which 
in  this  case  are  6  inches  in 
diameter. 

During  the  summer  stand  the 
plants  in  an  open  position, 
allowing  plenty  of  space  between 
each  one,  as  short,  mature  growth 
is  necessary  to  obtain  flowering 
plants  similar  to  the  one  illus- 
trated. We  find  it  advisable  to 
half  plunge  the  pots  in  ashes, 
or  in  summer  it  is  almost  endless 
work  watering  them.  Being  in 
small  pots,  the  plants  require 
liberal  supplies  of  liquid  manure. 
In  addition  to  the  value  of 
such  plants  for  small  greenhouses 
and  the  side  stages  of  larger 
structures,  they  will  be  found 
very  valuable  for  room  decora- 
tion, lasting  for  a  long  time  in 
good  condition.  It  is,  of  course, 
better  to  select  naturally  dwarf- 
growing  varieties  for  this  method 
of  cultivation.  Our  collection 
includes  the  following  sorts :  S^eur 
Melanie,  white,  October-flowering 
Pompon  ;  Ryecrof t  Glory,  rich 
yellow,  October ;  Market  Red, 
October ;  and  Soleil  d'Octobre, 
straw  yellow,  October.  Midseason 
varieties ;  Ladysmith, single, pink; 
Ronald  Ferguson  (illustrated) 
single,  blush  white ;  Charles  Davis, 
bronze  ;  Pha;bus,  yellow  ;  Mme. 
R.  Oberthur,  white ;  Nellie 
Pockett,  white:  Niveus,  white; 
Tokio,  deep  red ;  and  Viviand 
Morel,  deep  mauve. 
Kew.  A.  OsBORN. 


CHRYSANTHEMnM   RONALD   FBRGUSON  IN   THE   GREENHOUSE   AT   KEW. 


10°     by 
several 
must   be    kept 
and    syringing 


draughts,  or  next  season's  growth  will  suffer  in 
consequence. 

Selection  of  Varieties.  — Calanthes  may  be  had 
in  flower  from  November  to  February,  or  even 
March,  by  including  the  beautiful  C.  Regnieri. 
Among  the  species  we  have  C.  vestita,  with  its 


"ACACIAS   AND    THEIR 

CULTURE. 
The  Australian  Acacias,  or 
Wattles,  as  they  are  popularly 
called,  form  a  valuable  group  of 
plants  for  greenhouse  decoration 
during  winter  and  spring,  while 
for  mild  districts  in  the  South 
and  South-west  Counties  they 
are  excellent  for  outdoor  culture.  When 
grown  for  the  conservatory  or  greenhouse  they 
are  usually  placed  in  pots  or  tubs ;  but  where 
space  can  be  afforded  in  winter  gardens 
and  similar  structures  they  are  first  -  rate 
subjects  for  planting  in  borders.     Planted  in  this 


varieties  luteooculata  and    rubro-oculata,   and  |  manner  they  grow  rapidly  into  large  bushes  and 
rosea.      The   most    popular    is   undoubtedly   C.    blossom  profusely.     One  objection  may  be  raised 


Veitchii.     Others 
Harrisii  and  gigas. 


are    the    almost    pure   white  :  to  planting  Acacias  in  borders,  for  in  the  event  of 


Sentinel. 


a  specimen  getting  too  large  for  its  position  it 

cannot  be  successfully  transplanted  without  going 

nxiD-eo  A  xTrpiTT^iiiTTj^      Tjr^xT  A  T  T-i  to  a  grcat  amount  of  trouble,  for  few  shrubs  or 

CHRYSANTHEMUM     RONALD  trees  are  more  difficult  to  establish  after  serious 

FERQUSON.  root  disturbance.     By  an  annual  pruning  from 

The  amateur   gardener  with  probably  his   one  i  the  earliest  years  of  a  plant's  life,  however,  it 

little    greenhouse   usually   associates    the    word    may  be  kept  within  bounds  with  little  difficulty, 


166 


THE     GARDEN. 


[ArRiL  3,  1909. 


value  for  either  pot  or  border  work.  In  addition 
to  these  the  following  sorts  are  worth  attention : 
A.  baileyana,  A.  hastulata,  A.  juniperina,  A. 
longifolia  floribunda,  A.  myrtifolia,  A.  platyptera 
and  A.  verniciflua.  All  are  free  flowering,  and 
in  each  case  the  blossoms  are  one  or  other  shade 
of  yellow.  As  Acacias  give  comparatively 
little  trouble,  they  are  excellent  subjects  to 
use    for    the    conservatory     in     companionship 


while  the  selection  of  varieties  of  moderate 
growth  is  a  point  to  consider.  Although  Acacias 
will  stand  a  very  severe  annual  pruning,  pro- 
viding a  few  buds  on  each  shoot  of  the  previous 
year's  wood  is  left,  it  is  unwise  to  cut  them  back 
into  old  wood,  for  it  rarely  breaks  away  again 
satisfactorily. 

The  majority  of  the  sorts  grown  in  commercial 
establishments  are  increased  by  cuttings.  These 
may  be  made  from  young  shoots  .3  inches 
to  4  inches  long  during  summer.  They 
should  be  taken  when  the  wood  is  about 
half  ripe  and  inserted  in  well-drained  pots 
filled  with  soil  composed  of  two  parts 
peat,  one  part  loam  and  one  part  sand. 
The  soil  must  be  made  firm  and  the  cut- 
tings should  be  well  firmed  into  the  soil. 
When  inserted,  stand  in  a  moderately 
warm  propagating  case  and  shade  from 
bright  sun  until  roots  are  formed.  The 
young  plants  should  be  potted  singly  and 
firmly  in  soil  similar  to  that  recommended 
for  cuttings,  except  that  only  half  the 
(juantity  of  sand  will  be  required.  Stand 
close  to  the  glass  and  keep  the  young 
shoots  well  stopped  for  a  year  or  two 
until  a  good  foundation  has  been  laid. 
When  large  enougli  to  be  allowed  to 
bloom,  stopping  should  cease  early  in 
May,  so  that  long  growths  may  be 
formed  which  will  bloom  throughout  the 
whole  of  their  length.  For  large  plants 
equal  parts  of  peat  and  loarii  may  be  used, 
with  a  little  sand  and  a  handful  of 
crushed  bones  placed  over  the  crocks. 
It  is  a  great  mistake  to  overpot  plants, 
and  it  will  be  found  very  much  better  to 
feed  with  manure  water  during  summer 
than  to  give  too  large  pots. 

Plants  of  flowering  size  may  be  plunged 
out  of  doors  in  tuU  sun  for  the  summer. 
During  this  period  soot  water  once  a  week 

may    be    given    with   advantage.       They 
should   be   taken    indoors   in    September 

and  be  placed  in  a  cool  and  airy  green- 
house, taking  care  to  damp  the  floor  and 

stages   frequently.      Some  sorts    may   be 

had   in  bloom  in   December,  and    a   suc- 
cession can  be  obtained  until  the  end  of 

May.      All  pruning  ought  to  be  done  as 

soon  as  the  flowers  fall,  so  that  as  long  a 

growing  season  as  possible  can  be  had. 
Although  upwards  of    100   species   are 

known,  a  dozen  or  so  can  be  selected  as 

being  well  in  advance  of  the  majority  for 

ordinary  purposes,    and    the    sorts    men- 
tioned   in    the    following   notes   may   be 

depended  on  to  give  a  good  account  of 

themselves.      An  illustration  is  given   of 

A.  dealbata,  a  tree  commonly  called  the 

Silver  Wattle,  by  reason   of   its   pretty 

silvery  foliage.     It  is  a  most  floriferous 

plant  when  allowed  free  growth,  its  little 

fluffy,  yellow  balls  of  flowers  being  borne 

in  countless   numbers.      It  does  remark- 
ably well  when  planted  out,  but  is  not  a 

very  good  pot  plant.     It  is  the  so-called 

Mimosa  of  commerce.      A  popular  plant 

for  pots  is  A.  Drummondii.      This  under 

DorUer  culture   rarely   grows  more   than 

4    feet    or   5   feet    in   height,   and  when 

grown  in  a  .5-inch  or  6-inoh  pot  it  attains 

a   height  of   from  IJ  feet  to   2   feet   by 

9  inches  to  1  foot  in  diameter.    Its  yellow 

flowers  are  borne  profusely.     It   thrives 

better    in    peat    and    sand   than   in   soil 

containing  a  lot  of  loam. 

A.  armata  is  also  a  useful  and  popular  plant, 

while   its   variety   angustifolia   is   of   peculiarly 

graceful  outline.     A.  riceana  and  A.  leprosa  are 

a   pair   of   elegant  shrubs  suitable  for   planting  mrrT?    «matt      PPWT^MHOTT'i-fi' 

against  a  tall  pillar  or  for  pot  culture.    The  long,  I  ^  "^^'    bMALL    (jKh^JLiN  HUUbJi. 

wand-like  branches  are   very  graceful  and  bear  I  (Continued    from    pa(/e    1 '/'.) 

flowers  throughout  their  whole  length.     A.  cul-    Width  of  House. — This  is  an  item  ever  to  be 

triformis  is  well  known  by  reason  of  its  lovely  i  guided  by  circumstances,  but  even  so  there  is  a 

glaucous  leaves  and  rich  golden  flowers,   while  I  sense  of  degree  of  proportion  which  should   not 

A.  verticillata  is  a  free-flowering  plant  of  great   be  wholly  disregarded.     A  house  30  feet  in  width. 


1  well-flowerkd  branch  of  the  silver  wattle 
(acacia  dealbata). 

with  forced  bulbs  and  shrubs  during  winter  and 
spring.  K.  D. 


for  example,  may  be  excellent  where  the  ground 
floor  is  employed  for  such  a  crop  as  Tomatoes 
planted  out,  to  be  followed  by  Chrysanthemums 
for   autumn   and    winter.     Generally,    however, 
the  loss  of  space  would  be  considerable  for  not  a 
few  other  crops,  and  particularly  pot  plants  of 
more   lowly  stature.     In  such  a  case  much  air- 
space would  have  to  be  heated  over  and  above 
that  required,  and  so  on.     A  good  width  of  house 
is  that  of  20  feet,  and  by  arranging  side 
beds  3^  feet  wide,  and  two  pathways  at 
2h   feet  wide   each,  some   7   feet  would 
remain   for   a   central   bed,    the   half   of 
which     is    easily    reached    from    either 
pathway.    The  outside  walls  of  4J  inches, 
with    occasional     9-inch     piers,     would 
roughly  take  up  the  space.     A    10   feet 
wide  house   with  a  central   pathway   is 
valuable  where  pot  plants  are  grown  in 
winter,     and    with     a     portable     stage 
Tomatoes  may  follow  in  summer.     These 
narrow     houses,    when     arranged     with 
sharply    pitched     roofs,     are     best     for 
Cucumber-growing  in  summer. 

Heating. — A  house  .30  feet  in  width 
would  require  at  least  eight  rows  of 
4-ineh  piping  to  warm  it  ;  that  20  feet 
wide,  six  rows  ;  and  a  10  feet  wide  house, 
four  rows  of  4-inch  pipes.  If  Gardenias 
or  Eucharis  were  grown,  a  considerable 
increase  in  the  amount  of  piping  would 
be  an  absolute  necessity.  The  heating 
apparatus  must  be  well  above  its  work — 
that  is  to  say,  if  ,300  feet  of  piping 
existed  to  be  heated,  a  boiler  catalogued 
or  specified  to  do  500  feet  of  piping 
should  be  selected,  and  so  on  in  pro- 
portion. Where  a  boiler  is  taxed  to  its 
fullest  scheduled  power  of  heating  in 
ordinary  weather,  a  great  strain  is 
obviously  placed  upon  it  when  severe 
weather  is  experienced,  and  two  or  three 
months'  hard  firing  will  coat  as  much  as 
a  new  boiler  ;  when  this  is  repeated  year 
after  year  the  result  is  a  great  bill  for 
fuel,  a  large  amount  of  heat  from  which 
passes  out  at  the  chimney.  It  is 
economy,  therefore,  to  have  either  one 
boiler  as  suggested,  with  some  reserve  of 
power,  or  two  of  smaller  size  for  the 
same  thing,  the  one  being  in  reserve  in 
case  of  a  breakdown.  Cast-iron  boilers 
should  always  be  selected  for  damp 
stokeholes  and  for  low-lying  districts. 
One  of  the  oldest  types  of  boiler,  the 
Saddle,  is  as  valuable  as  any  to-day,  and 
for  small  greenhouses  the  terminal  end- 
flued  Saddle  has  much  to  commend  it, 
There  are  several  boilersof  the  type  known 
as  "independents,'  and  these  are  made 
in  sections,  either  large  or  small.  The 
chief  claims  of  these  are  economy  in  fuel 
consumption  and  slow  combustion. 

Fiiel  and  Stoking. — Only  two  classes  of 

fuel  call  for  notice  here,  viz.,   coke  and 

coal.     Ordinary  house  coal  is  not  good, 

and  the  only  coal  worthy  of  consideration 

by  reason  of  its  great  heating  power, 

reliability  and  endurance  is  anthracite. 

In  the  case  of  coke,  when  used  for  small 

boilers   it   is    necessary   to    break   it    to 

about  the  size  of  a  tennis  ball.     The  coal 

may  be  broken  to  about  the  size  of  a 

Cocoanut,  and  a  fire  made  of  this  is  good 

for  a  dozen  or  fifteen  hours  without  any 

attention.     For  quite  small   boilers    the 

anthracite   cobbles    may    be   used, 

A  most  important  point  with  this  coal  is  that, 

once  the    fire  is   made,    it  must   be   allowed   to 

burn  untouched.      The  amount  of  fuel  must  be 

regulated  by  the   weather,   and  the  slowness  or 

quickness  of  the  fire  by  the  damper.   Small  broken 

house  coal  of  a  good  kind  when  mixed  with  finely 

broken  coke  and  clean-washed  cinders  will  make 

a  sharp  fire  in  case  of  such  being  wanted. 

Hampton  Hill.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 

(To  he  continued.) 


April  3,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


167 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


BEAUTIFUL  GARDENS  AT  SMALL 
COST. 

THE  flower-lover  who  does  not  possess 
large  means  to  spend  upon  his  hobby 
need  not  despair ;  there    are   many 
ways  of  making   a  whole  garden  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful  at  small  cost,  and 
though     the  work    will    necessarily 
take  time,  spring  is  the  right  season  to  begin,  and 
the  coming  summer  and  autumn  will  witness  a 
portion  of  the  glory. 

Climbers  are  essential,  either  for  house  walls, 
fences,  trellises,  summer-houses  or  arches, 
perhaps  for  all,  and  if  some  are  trained  up  a  trio 
of  hop-poles  placed  in  a  triangular  shape  6  inches 
apart  and  latticed  between  with  string,  hand- 
some tall  ornaments  will  be  gained  to  give 
height  in  the  bed  centres  and  borders.  As  a  rule, 
the  new  or  the  neglected  garden  is  deficient  in 
high  objects  of  beauty,  so  this  method  is  worth 
remembering. 

Seeds  of  the  annual  Hop  (Humulus  japonieue 
variegatus)  should  be  sown  singly  in  small  pots 
in  a  frame  or  glass-covered  box  placed  in  sunshine, 
and  if  a  hot-bed  can  be  made  up  under  the  pots 
germination  will  be  swift.  For  wall  or  arbour 
covering  this  is  a  fine  climber,  giving  a  bright 
appearance  until  winter.  It  is  suitable  for 
clothing  trellises  to  form  a  screen,  also  for 
rambling  over  the  porch,  and  seed  is  obtainable, 
as  most  seeds  are  indeed  now,  very  cheaply. 

Cobfea  scandens,  raised  in  the  same  fashion, 
will  grow  so  rapidly  that  the  fine  Ash-like  foliage 
will  make  a  splendid  covering  for  a  wall,  fence  or 
summer-house  in  a  sunny  position,  and  the  yield 
of  purple  bell-flowers  will  be  profuse  before  frost 
cheeks  it.  To  carpet  the  borders  beneath 
Cobsea  soandens  with  E?chscholtzia  eroeea  fl. -pi. , 
E.  Mandarin  and  E.  alba  is  a  cheap  method  of 
gaining  the  magnificent  harmony  of  purple, 
crimson,  orange,  yellow  and  cream.  A  sow- 
ing of  seed  on  a  day  in  April,  when  the 
ground  has  been  moistened ,  will  be  a  sure  way 
of  succeeding ;  but  the  seedlings  should  be 
thinned  out  until  they  stand  9  inches  apart. 

Climbing  variegated  Nasturtiums  have  a 
refined  appearance  and  offer  no  difficulties  of 
culture  ;  the  seed  germinates  faster  if  soaked  in 
tepid  water  for  twelve  hours  before  it  is  sown. 
A  large  bank  can  have  its  summit  sown  in  the 
same  way,  for  Nasturtiums  flower  as  well  when 
trailing  down  a  slope  as  when  allowed  to  climb, 
and  the  colour  display  will  be  brilliant  for  many 
months.  These  Nasturtiums,  or,  indeed,  any  of 
the  class,  look  charming  when  grown  against  a 
length  of  trellis  or  painted  wire  netting  upon  the 
hottest  house  wall,  giving  a  far  better  effect  if 
trained  out  thus  than  when  overcrowded  and 
allowed  only  strings  to  mount  by.  Convol- 
vuluses are  equally  suitable.  In  addition  to  the 
ordinary  type,  catalogued  sometimes  as  Ipomeea 
purpurea,  but  generally  as  Convolvulus  major, 
there  is  the  Ivy-leaved  strain,  equally  sure  to 
flourish  in  a  warm  position,  equally  varied  in 
colour  and  possessed  of  extra  attractive  foliage. 

If  there  are  no  shrubs,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
grow  some  tall,  imposing  plants  for  positions  in  the 
Iront  and  back  gardens.  Seeds  should  be  at  once 
sown  in  the  frame  (on  a  hot-bed  if  possible)  of 
Rhus  typhinus  or  Sumach,  which  hardy  shrub 
towers  ultimately  8 feet  or  more  high,  has  giantout- 
out  foliage  that  is  crimson  tinted  in  the  autumn, 
and  has  plumes  of  quaint  reddish  blossoms. 

Other  seeds  to  sow  for  permanent  beauty 
include  Delphinium,  Hollyhock,  perennial  Sun- 
flowers and  Rudbeckias,  the  Chimney  Campanula, 
Tree  Lupines.  Ferula  gigantea  (the  Giant 
Fenneljand  the  very  handsome  red-fruited  Rheum 
moorcroftianura,  which  is  said  to  be  as  easy  to 
cultivate  as  the  ordinary  Rhubarb. 

For  the  present  summer's  show  the  Giant 
Hemp  ought  to  be  sown,  to  take  places  where 
shrubs  may  be  planted  next  winter,   to  form 


specimens  on  lawns  or  shut  out  ugly  views. 
Cannabis  gigantea  is  a  12  feet  hardy  annual  with 
grand  leaves,  and  seed  germinates  readily  with 
bottom-heat.  Giant  Sunflowers  can  be  used  in 
variety  for  other  spots,  and  the  4  feet  tall  Maize 
(Zea  May's  quadrioolor),  Sweet  Pea  clumps, 
double  Poppies  and  the  purple-blooming  Tobacco 
(Nicotiana  macrophylla  gigantea)  will  prove 
useful. 

Beds  of  annuals  may  be  as  fair  as  any.  The 
Eschscholtzias  of  carmine  and  rose,  as  well  as 
those  mentioned,  are  admirable.  Mixed  Salpi- 
glossis  cannot  be  rivalled.  Blue  Cornflowers,  with 
white  Candytuft,  Nemesia  strumosa  Suttonii, 
banded  round  by  cream,  orange  and  crimson 
Tom  Thumb  Nasturtiums,  Godetia  Lady  Satin 
Rose,  combined  with  cream  white  Chrysanthe- 
mum ooronarium  and  edged  with  Sweet  Alyssum 
are  but  a  few  of  the  possible  attractions. 
Perennial  borders  take  time  to  grow  from  seed, 
yet  some  of  the  seedlings  will  blossom  the  first 
year,  such  as  Snapdragons,  Iceland  Poppies, 
Pansies,  double  Daisies,  Michaelmas  Daisies, 
Aquilegia  chrysantha,  Geum  atrosanguineum 
fl.-pl.,  yellow  Mimulus  and  Meconopsis  eambrioa 


singly  from  the  whorl  of  three  leaves,  and  are 
borne  on  erect  or  drooping  stalks. 

There  is  also  a  lovely  form  of  T.  grandiflorum 
with  flowers  which  open  a  delicate  blush  rose, 
and  gradually  deepen  in  colour  with  age.  The 
variety  maximum  has  flowers  from  4  inches  to 
5  inches  across.  This  grand-flowered  Wood  Lily 
is  an  excellent  plant  for  naturalising  in  cool 
shady  woodlands,  where  there  is  plenty  of 
moisture.  It  may  be  obtained  cheaply  in 
quantity,  and  should  be  planted  in  autumn  in 
rich,  leafy  soil  that  has  been  deeply  dug.  In 
addition  to  the  above  plant,  there  are  several 
others  in  this  family  well  worth  growing.  T. 
erectum  (Birth  Root)  has  flowers  of  a  dark  reddish 
purple  and  is  very  distinct,  and  there  is  also 
a  variety  with  white  flowers.  T.  erythrocarpum 
(Painted  Wood  Lily)  is  a  very  pretty  flower, 
pure  white,  blotched  at  the  base  with  crimson 
purple.  One  of  the  earliest-blooming  species  '« 
T.  nivale,  with  white  flowers.  T.  sessile  has 
whorls  of  variegated  leaves  and  deep  purple 
flowers,  sessile  on  the  leaves.  The  variety 
oalifornieum,  or  album,  is  one  of  the  best,  with 
large,  pure  white  flowers.     T.  stylosum  is  one  of 


THE   LAROE-IXOWUBED   WOOD  LILT   (TBILLIUM   GBANDirLOBCM)   IN  THE  BOCK   6ABD1N  AT  KEW. 


(the  yellow  Welsh  Poppy).  There  are  all  kinds 
of  Pinks,  Carnations,  Auriculas,  Polyanthuses, 
Primroses,  Oriental  Poppies  and  Centaureas  to 
be  raised  ;  also  Lupinus  polyphyllus  in  several 
colours,  Aohilleas,  hybrid  Pyrethrums  and  Sweet 
Williams  for  profuse  blooming  next  year. 
Gradually  the  seedlings  will  result  in  a  perfectly 
filled  garden.  E.  J.  Dunham. 


ONE  OF  THE  WOOD  LILIES. 
(Trillium  gbandiflorum. ) 
The  Wood  Lilies  are  a  family  of  beautiful 
shade-loving  plants,  all  natives  of  North  America. 
It  is  but  seldom  that  they  are  seen  growing  with 
anything  like  an  approach  to  healthy  vigour,  yet 
their  requirements  are  comparatively  simple. 
No  more  delightful  sight  can  be  imagined  than 
healthy  groups  of  the  sort  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion (T.  grandiflorum).  Under  favourable  con- 
ditions, in  shady  portions  of  the  rock  garden  or 
I\ern  border,  with  a  rich  rooting  medium, 
consisting  of  peaty  soil  with  an  abundance  of 
leaf-soil,  this  plant  will  attain  a  height  of  over 
2  feet,  with  flowers  of  dazzling  whiteness 
'  3  inches  to  4  inches  across.     These  are  produced 


the  last  in  flower,  with  flowers  of  varying 
shades  of  rose  pink.  W.  I. 

GYPSOPHILA   ACUTIFOLIA. 

Among  the  plants  which  have  again  been  brought 
forward  after  years  of  neglect  is  one  of  the 
Chalk  Plants,  which  is  deserving  of  considera- 
tion. This  is  Gypsophila  acutifolia,  a  Siberian 
species,  introduced  first  in  1820,  but  apparently 
forgotten  for  some  years,  seeing  that  it 
is  not  described  in  the  "  Dictionary  of 
Gardening"  of  the  late  Mr.  George  Nicholson, 
although  it  is  referred  to  by  Loudon  in  his 
"Encyclopaedia  of  Plants."  Now  it  is  being 
classed  among  the  novelties,  and  such  it  will 
prove  to  many  who  appreciate  the  ever-popular 
G.  paniculata.  G.  acutifolia  is.  however,  a  very 
different  plant,  having  larger  flowers  in  large 
panicles.  The  individual  blooms  are  about  three 
times  the  size  of  those  of  G.  paniculata  and  are 
more  of  a  silvery  than  a  pure  white.  The  plant 
itself  is  considerably  taller,  and,  although  not  so 
cloud-like  when  in  flower  as  G.  paniculata,  is  a 
graceful  and  pleasing  subject  for  the  flower- 
border,  '  S.  Abnott. 


168 


THE    GARDEN. 


[April  3,  1909. 


GoiRT>ENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

THE  LAWN.— At  this  season  the  lawn 
will    need    attention   if   it   is    to    be 
in   good   condition    for   the  summer. 
As  growth   is  backward  this  spring, 
mowing  will  not  yet  be   called    for, 
but    the    machine    should    be    over- 
hauled, the  knives  ground  if  necessary,  and  all 
bearings  thoroughly  cleaned  and  oiled  in  readi- 
ness for  a  start.     It  is  unwise  to  out  very  close 


I. — A   LAVENDKR   PLANT  SUITABLE   FOR 
DIVIDING. 

the  first  time  or  two  ;  set  the  blade  so  that  it  is 
at  least  1  inch  from  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
Previous  to  mowing  (and  the  following  work 
should  be  done  now)  the  lawn  must  be  thoroughly 
weeded,  removing  all  Daisies,  Plantains  and 
other  spreading  weeds,  or,  if  preferred.  Lawn 
Sand  may  be  used,  taking  care  that  it  is  applied 
strictly  according  to  the  directions.  Then  give 
the  grass  a  thorough  sweeping  and  rolling, 
doing  the  latter  when  the  soil  is  not  sodden 
or  frozen.  Where  thin,  bare  and  mossy 
places  occur,  these  may  be  scratched  over 
deeply  with  an  iron-toothed  rake  and  some 
grass  seeds  scattered  in  and  lightly  covered  with 
fine  soil,  finally  rolling  the  whole  down  firmly. 

Flower  Garden. — Providing  the  weather  has 
been  warm  for  a  few  days  and  the  soil  is  com- 
paratively dry,  the  sowing  of  many  hardy 
annuals  may  be  undertaken  ;  but  if  the  weather 
conditions  are  unfavourable,  defer  the  work  for 
a  week  or  two.  A  great  many  of  these  charming 
flowers,  such  as  Poppies,  Mignonette,  scarlet 
Flax  and  Night-scented  Stock,  are  best  sown 
where  they  are  intended  to  flower,  and,  con- 
sequently, the  soil  must  be  deeply  dug  and  well 
prepared  previous  to  sowing.  In  all  oases  the 
two  essential  points  to  observe  are  to  sow  thinly 
and  thin  early.  By  far  the  majority  of  annuals 
are  ruined  by  too  thick  sowing  and  the  sub- 
sequent neglect  as  regards  thinning.  Sweet- 
scented  kinds,  such  as  Mignonette  and  the  little 
Night-scented  Stock,  should  be  freely  sowu  in 
close  proximity  to  the  house,  where  their 
fragrance  will  be  most  welcome  during  the 
summer  evenings. 


Vegetable  Garden.  — A  sowing  of  a  good  Cabbage 
may  now  be  made  in  the  open,  scattering  the 
seeds  thinly  and  evenly  in  the  drills.  A  new 
variety  that  I  grew  last  year  was  Webb's 
Leader,  a  beautiful,  conical-shaped  Cabbage  that 
comes  ready  for  cutting  in  an  incredibly  short 
time.  It  is  of  splendid  flavour,  and  may  be 
regarded  as  one  of  the  best  Cabbages  we  have  for 
spring  sowing.  The  plants  when  large  enough 
should  be  planted  out  in  rows  2  feet  apart, 
allowing  a  distance  of  15  inches  between  the 
plants.  Stir  the  soil  freely  between  all  growing 
crops,  such  as  Broad  Beans,  Spring  Cabbages, 
Globe  Artichokes,  &o. ,  and  generally  prepare 
plots  for  sowing  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
Salsify  and  Scorzonera  are  two  vegetables  that 
deserve  to  be  grown  by  amateurs  more  extensively 
than  they  are  at  present.  Both  form  long. 
Parsnip-like  roots,  and  both  therefore  require  a 
deeply  worked  soil.  Sow  now  in  rows  14  inches 
apart  and  about  2  inches  deep,  thinning  the 
seedlings  when  they  appear  to  H  inches  apart. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  present  is  a  good  time  to 
apply  long,  strawy  manure  to  Strawberry  beds. 
A  certain  amount  of  food  will  be  washed  from 
this  into  the  soil  just  at  the  time  the  plants  are 
flowering  and  when  they  need  a  stimulant,  and 
by  the  time  the  fruit  ripens  the  straw  will  be 
quite  clean  and  forma  suitable  preventive  against 
the  fruits  being  splashed  with  soil.  All  weeds 
and  dead  leaves  should  be  removed  before  apply- 
ing the  manure,  and  where  slugs  are  troublesome 
dust  the  soil  well  with  soot.  Put  the  manure 
on  6  inches  thick,  shaking  it  to  pieces  well  in  the 
process,  and  take  care  that  no  lumps  find  their 
way  to  the  hearts  of  the  plants. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — All  bedding  plants 
that  have  been  kept  in  the  greenhouse  for  the 
winter  should  soon  go  to  the  cold  frames,  as  it  is 
absolutely  essential  that  they  be  perfectly 
hardened  off  before  planting  out.  Give  them  as 
much  space  as  possible,  and  after  they  have  been  in 
their  new  quarters  for  a  few  days  ventilate  freely 
whenever  possible.  Calceolarias  and  Pentstemons 
in  cold  frames  may  now  have  the  lights  entirely 
removed  on  all  fine  days.  Young  Fuchsia  plants 
that  were  rooted  last  autumn  will  now  be  grow- 
ing freely,  and  in  most  instances  it  will  be 
necessary  to  pinch  out  the  tops  of  the  main 
shoots,  and  thus  induce  a  bushy  habit.  When 
the  pots  are  full  of  roots  the  plants  will  need 
moving  into  others  of  larger  size,  using  soil 
composed  of  good  turfy  Joam  two  parts,  well- 
decayed  manure  and  sand  half  a  part  each, 
with  a  few  knobs  of  charcoal  added.  Do  not 
on  any  account  pinch  out  the  tops  and  do  the 
repotting  within  a  week  of  each  other,  else  a 
double  cheek  will  be  given  the  plant,  much  to 
its  disadvantage.  H. 

HOW  TO  INCREASE  LAVENDER. 
We  doubt  whether  there  is  any  more  popular 
fragrant  shrub  than  the  ever-welcome  Lavender. 
In  these  notes  we  are  alluding  more  especially  to 
the  common  Lavender,  known  to  botanists  as 
Lavandula  vera.  An  open,  sunny  situation  is 
undoubtedly  the  better  position  in  which  to 
plant,  and,  if  the  soil  in  such  a  locality  is  light 
and  warm,  Lavender  may  most  certainly  be 
planted  with  the  sure  prospect  of  success.  In 
such  circumstances  we  have  heard  of  a  hedge 
some  30  yards  or  more  long  and  about  .3  feet  in 
height.  Sandy  loam  appears  to  suit  the  plant 
admirably.  While  we  advocate  a  good  open, 
sunny  position,  we  would  not  plant  unless  we 
had  friendly  shelter  from  cold  north  and  east 
winds. 


We  have  endeavoured  in  the  accompanying 
illustrations  to  show  the  simple  means  by  which 
this  subject  may  be  increased.  No  great  know- 
ledge is  necessary  to  propagate  Lavender  suc- 
cessfully. There  are  times  and  seasons,  how- 
ever, when  the  work  should  be  done,  and  these 
must  necessarily  be  somewhat  rigorously 
observed.  Lavender  may  be  propagated  in 
March  and  April,  and  again  in  September  and 
October.  There  are  those  who  aver  that  the 
propagation  of  this  plant  may  be  done  at  any 
time  when  the  weather  is  open.  That  may  be, 
and  we  have  no  doubt  a  successful  propagator 
could  continue  his  work  over  a  good  many 
months  of  the  year  quite  successfully.  In  the 
present  instance  our  concern  is  to  make  the 
matter  simple  for  the  beginner,  and  for  tliis 
reason  we  recommend  him  to  make  the  best  use 
of  the  latter  part  of  March  and  early  April. 
Assuming  he  has  a  spare  plant  or  two  in  proper 
condition  in  his  garden,  or  provides  himself  with 
a  plant  or  two  from  the  nurseryman,  individual 
plants  should  be  represented  by  a  small  specimen 
very  similar  to  that  portrayed  in  Fig.  1.  This, 
it  will  be  observed,  is  a  shrubby  little  plant 
capable  of  making  a  good  individual  specimen  later 
on,  but  ideal  at  the  present  time  for  dividing  up 
into  numerous  pieces  for  increasing  our  supply 
of  this  subject.  Note  the  sturdy  growths  and 
the  plentiful  supply  of  roots  at  the  base  of  the 
plant.  Now,  if  this  specimen  be  divided  with 
just  a  little  care,  it  should  be  possible  to  break 
out  each  piece  with  a  few  roots  adhering,  and 
when  this  latter  is  an  accomplished  fact,  the 
chances  of  succeeding  are  increased  very  con- 
siderably. 

Fig.  2  serves  to  illustrate  the  character  of  the 
divided  pieces.    In  this  picture  there  are  but  two 


2. — TWO  OF  THE  LARGER  DIVIDEO  PIECES  OF 
THE  PLANT  SEEN  IN  FIG.  I.  THERE 
SHO0LD  BE  QUITE  A  DOZEN  SUCH  PIECES 
IN  THE  PLANT  REFERRED  TO. 

pieces,  but  such  a  plant  as  that  represented  in 
Fig.  1  should  provide  at  least  a  dozen,  each  of 
which  would  make  a  fine  plant  ultimately.  The 
beginner  may  now  say  -.  What  am  I  to  do  with 
these  divided  pieces  V  To  this  we  reply  :  Insert 
the  larger  divided  pieces  in  well-prepared  soil, 
observing  a  distance  between  each  piece  of 
about  1  foot,  and  in  rows  a  similar  distance 
asunder.  Plant  each  piece  firmly,  first  taking 
out  sufficient  soil  to  ensure  the  roots  being  well 
buried.  By  this  method  of  increasing  Lavender 
shajjely  little  plants  may  be  quickly  brought 
into  effect. 

While  there  are  a  number  of  stout  branching 
pieces  in  each  plant,  such  as  are  depicted  in 
Fig.    2,    there  are  also  numerous  sturdy  little 


April  3,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


169 


3. — SPECIMENS  OF  SOME  OF  THE  SMALLER 
DIVIDED  PIECES.  NOTE  HOW  EACH  PIECE 
HAS  ROOTS  ADHERING.  ONE  OLD  PLANT 
WILL  MAKE  A  LARGE  NUMBER  OF  SUCH 
PIECES. 

rooted  pieces  that  come  about  when  the  division 
of  the  old  plant  is  made.  And,  again,  there  may 
be  readers  who  would  prefer  to  make  a  big  bed 
of  Lavender  and  who,  in  achieving  this  object, 
are  prepared  to  divide  their  old  plants  into  as 
many  pieces  as  possible,  placing  the  rooted 
shoots  in  one  heap  and  the  unrooted  pieces  in 
another.  The  rooted  pieces,  just  as  they  are 
broken  out  from  the  old  plant,  are  represented  in 
Fig.  3.  They  all  denote  promise,  the  roots  in 
each  instance  ensuring  this.  What  can  we  do 
with  such  pieces '!  They  may  be  inserted  in  nice, 
light,  friable  soil  4  inches  apart  and  the  soil 
pressed  firmly  at  the  base  of  each  one.  The  bed 
should  not  be  too  wide,  but  just  sufficiently  so 
to  enable  the  grower  to  give  attention  to  the 
young  plants  as  they  grow.  We  should  be  dis- 
posed to  plant  the  better  plants  in  their  perma- 
nent quarters  in  the  succeeding  October.  Six 
months  in  the  propagating  bed  will  make  a  great 
difference  in  these  smaller  divided  pieces. 

Fig.  4  serves  to  illustrate  a  Lavender  cutting. 
This  has  been  torn  off  the  plant  and  is  one  of  the 
unrooted  pieces  referred  to  before  that  were  placed 
in  a  heap  by  themselves.  Note  the  "heel"  at 
the  base  of  the  stalk.  If  these  cuttings  are  in- 
serted in  sandy  soil  outdoors,  and  a  distance  of 
4  inches  between  each  one  be  allowed,  they 
should  succeed  very  well.  Press  the  soil  firmly 
at  the  base  of  each  cutting  to  ensure  its  rooting. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  insert  the  cuttings  in  ground 
where  they  are  to  grow,  and  about  a  year  sub- 
sequently to  lift  alternate  plants,  planting  these 
elsewhere,  and  leave  the  others  to  progress 
unchecked  by  lifting  and  replanting  that  would 
be  the  case  otherwise.  They  transplant  readily 
enough,  however.  Seeds  ot  the  Lavender  may 
be  sown  outdoors  in  April,  should  any  reader 
prefer  to  raise  plants  by  these  means.     13.  B.  U. 

DEEP  CULTIVATION. 
Vegetables,  Roses,  fruit  trees,  shrubs  and  nearly 
all  other  kinds  of  garden  subjects  which  are 
grown  from  year  to  year  do  best  and  are  alto- 
gether more  satisfactory  when  the  soil  is  deeply 
trenched.  Trenching  does  not  mean  the  bringing 
up  of  the  subsoil  to  the  surface  ;  it  means  the 
proper  loosening  of  all  the  soil  to  a  considerable 
depth,  varying,  generally,  from  IS  inches  to 
3  feet.  It  is  easy  to  loosen  the  soil  to  a  depth  of 
18  inches.  When  the  cultivator  is  engaged  in 
digging  a  border  ih  the  flower  garden,  or  a  plot 
in  the  vegetable  quarters,  he  must  turn  over  the 
surface  portion  to  the  depth  of  the  spade,  and 
then  drive  in  the  spade  or  garden  fork  and  loosen 
the  subsoil  to  a  further  depth  of  about  9  inches. 
Vegetables  always  withstand  a  spell  of  very  hot 
weather  when  they  are  growing  in  deeply 
trenched  ground.  The  plants  make  more  roots 
and  penetrate  deeper  in  deeply  cultivated  soil 
than   in   shallow,    and    work    entailed   by   deep 


digging  or  trenching  is  sure  to  give  a  good  return. 
We  must  couple  surface  mulching  of  crops  with 
deep  cultivation,  as  both  are  so  conducive  to 
good  results. 

HINTS  ON  PLANTING  A  DRY 
BORDER. 
In  many  gardens  there  are  very  dry  borders 
which,  on  account  of  their  position  and  the 
character  of  the  soil,  remain  in  such  a  condition 
almost  the  whole  of  the  year  round.  Very  often 
these  dry  borders  are  in  positions  that  the  owner 
wishes  to  have  well  furnished  with  flowering  and 
foliage  plants,  and  by  assiduous  attention  almost 
every  kind  of  ordinary  bedding-out  plant  may 
be  successfully  grown  therein  ;  but  there  are 
several  specially  suitable  for  these  positions. 
They  are  single-flowered  Petunias,  Portulaca, 
Nasturtiums,  Zonal  Pelargoniums  and  Gazanias. 
Not  only  will  the  above-named  plants  make  good 
and  free  growth,  but  flower  profusely  also. 
Now,  it  is  much  more  satisfactory  to  cultivate 
those  plants  most  suitable  for  the  position  than 
other  subjects  which  are  unsuitable,  and  are  only 
a  partial  success,  even  when  constant  attention 
is  bestowed  upon  them. 

The  selection  of  the  right  kinds  of  plants  is 
not  the  only  consideration  ;  the  soil  must  be 
dealt  with.  Dry  borders  are  generally  hard,  and 
so  it  will  be  advisable  to  dig  up  the  soil  very 
deeply  and  put  in  a  liberal  quantity  of  well- 
rotted  manure,  mixing  it  with  the  soil  chiefly 
about  1  foot  below  the  surface.  The  roots  of  the 
plants  will  soon  permeate  the  manured  soil,  and 
as  this  portion  remains  fairly  moist,  even  during 
a  long  spell  of  dry  weather,  the  plants  continue 
to  grow  and  blossom  freely.  This  would  not  be 
the  case,  however,  if  the  manure  was  mixed  with 
the  surface  soil  only. 

A  neat  mulch  ot  Cocoanut  fibre  is  also  a 
valuable  aid,  and  when  water  is  needed  a 
thorough  soaking  must  be  given.  Merely  wetting 
the  surface  soil  will  not  prove  very  beneficial  ;  in 
fact,  it  does  harm  by  attracting  the  roots  to  the 
surface,  where  they  soon  perish  when  exposed 
to  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun  in  summer. 
Before  putting  out  any  plants  in  a  dry  border 
moisten  the  soil  with  water,  and  then  plant  about 
twelve  hours  afterwards.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Wallflowers. — For  town  gardens  there  are 
few  plants  more  suitable  than  these.  Although 
the  plants  will  grow  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil 
and  in  nearly  every  position,  it  is  just  as  well 
to  give  them  as  good  treatment  as  possible, 
as  few  plants  pay  better  for  attention.  The 
weakly  seedling — the  result  of  late  sowing  of 
seeds,  and  neglect  as  regards  transplanting  of 
seedlings  while  they  were  quite  small — is  not  to 
be  taken  as  an  average  specimen  of  the  Wall- 
flower. Usually,  such  plants  only  produce  one 
small  central  spike  of  blooms,  the  individual 
flowers  being  very  tiny,  too.  The  well-grown 
plant  is  bushy,  and  only  a  few  of  them  are 
required  to  fill  a  bed  of  medium  size.  Each 
plant  forms  a  bouquet  of  flowers.  It  is  never 
wise  to  grow  the  young  Wallflower  plants  in  a 
very  rich  soil  before  they  are  put  out  in 
their  flowering  quarters,  because  they  would 
make  a  too  luxuriant  growth,  which  would  not 
withstand  a  severe  winter.  Indeed,  the  weather 
of  the  past  few  weeks  has  been  very  trying  both 
to  Wallflowersandotherspring-flowering  subjects. 
Where  the  plants  are  already  established  in 
their  flowering  beds,  it  would  be  a  good  plan  to 
gently  stir  up  the  surface  soil  around  them 
without  in  any  way  disturbing  the  roots,  and 
then  put  on  a  top-dressing  of  loam  and  rotted 
manure.  If  the  cultivator  is  quite  sure  that  the 
soil  in  which  the  plants  are  growing  is  poor, 
no  time  must  be  lost  in  giving  them  such 
assistance. 


Spring  Planting  of  Wallflowers. — There 
are  thousands  of  owners  of  town  gardens  who 
do  not  attempt  to  put  out  any  Wallflowers  before 
spring.  In  such  instances  the  soil  must  be  made 
rich  with  rotted  manure  and  be  deeply  dug. 
The  soil  must  be  fairly  dry  when  the  digging, 
manuring  and  planting  work  is  done,  because  the 
Wallflowers  will  grow  better  afterwards.  It  is 
advisable  to  make  the  soil  pretty  firm  around 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  and  this  can  only  be  done 
with  advantage  while  the  soil,  both  on  the  soil 
and  several  inches  below,  is  sufficiently  dry  not 
to  adhere  to  the  hands  and  tools.  Take  the  first 
opportunity  to  get  in  all  the  plants,  so  that  they 
may  get  established  before  the  very  drying 
winds  blow. 

Herbaceous  Plants. — Crocuses,  Snowdrops 
and  other  early  flowering  bulbs  have  been  very 
tardy  in  the  development  of  their  blooms  this 
year  so  far,  on  account  of  the  cold,  chilly 
weather.  Thousands  of  Crocuses  have  opened  their 
blossoms,  in  many  instances  before  the  buds  had 
well  cleared  the  border  soil,  as  if  they  wished  to 
do  their  duty  and  flower  without  exposing  them  - 
selves  to  the  cold  winds.  The  absence  of  rain 
and  the  very  cold  nights  during  February  were 
the  chief  factors  in  arresting  growth.  However, 
we  are  now  able  to  get  on  with  the  planting  of 
many  kinds  of  herbaceous  subjects,  and  most  of 
these  are  grand  for  town  garden  embellishment. 
Doronicums  are  lovely  yellow  Daisy-shaped 
flowers,  and  are  extremely  useful  for  the  filling 
of  glass  vases  in  the  dwelling-house.  Clumps 
may  now  be  purchased  and  planted,  and  in  a 
very  short  time  blossoms  will  be  available  for 
cutting.  Other  useful  border  plants  that  may  be 
put  in  at  once  are  Gaillardias,  Helenium  grandi- 
florum,  Shasta  Daisy,  Tritomas,  Phloxes  in 
variety,  Michaelmas  Daisies  in  variety.  Golden 
Rod  (Solidago),  Aquilegias,  Veronicas,  early- 
flowering  Chrysanthemums  and  Sweet  Williams. 
All  of  them  are  hardy  and  will  thrive  and  blossom 
in  cool,  hot,  exposed  or  shady  borders  such  as 
are  often  found  in  town  gardens.  Not  only  may 
new  plants  be  put  in,  but  the  old  clumps  which 
have  not  been  disturbed  for  many  years  may  also 
be  dug  up,  divided  carefully,  and  all  the  best 
parts  replanted  after  the  soil  has  been  turned 
over  deeply  and  enriched  with  manure.  The 
flowers  from  the  replanted  portions  will  be  much 
finer  than  those  previously  grown  on  the  poor, 
impoverished  old  specimens  ;  but  it  is  abso- 
lutely essential  that  the  work  be  carried  out 
now  without 
further  delay, 
as  growth 
is  becoming 
active. 

Loosening 
Surface  Soil. 
A  neatly  kept 
garden  is 
always  very 
attractive, 
and  the  hoeing 
of  the  borders 
adds  consider- 
ably  to  the 
beauty  of  the 
whole  of  the 
surroundings. 
Furthermore, 
the  loosening  of 
the  surface  soil, 
besides  keeping 
down  the 
weeds,  lets  in 
the  heat  from 
the  sun,  and  so 
induces  a  very 
early  and 
healthy  growth 
in  the  plants. 
Do  this  work  4.— a  lavender  odtting.  note 
while  the    soil  the  "heel"  at  the  base. 

ia        mnHnrnf-oUf  ^^"^  CUTTINGS   SHOULD    BE 

J  A  ^  FIRMLY   INSERTED  IN  SANDY 

dry.      Avon.  soil. 


170 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Ap»il  3,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOE    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flowbb    Garden. 

THIS  is  one  of  the  very  busy  months  in 
the  flower  garden,  so  many  things 
requiring  immediate  attention,  and 
work,  if  in  arrears,  must  be  pushed 
forward  before  the  general  bedding- 
out  season  arrives. 
Carnations  which  have  been  wintered  in  cold 
frames  may  be  planted  out  in  well-prepared 
beds,  and  good  dressings  with  soot  and  wood- 
ashes  previous  to  planting  will  greatly  assist  the 
plants  at  a  later  period  and  be  helpful  in  keeping 
them  free  from  slugs.  Pyrethrums,  Pentstemons 
and  Hollyhocks  may  also  be  put  out  where  they 
are  intended  to  flower.  Edging  the  beds  with 
Cerastium  and  other  more  hardy  plants  to  take 
the  place  of  tender  subjects  should  be  practised 
whenever  circumstances  will  allow. 

Boz  Edging. — Lifting  and  replanting  of  this 
must  not  be  longer  delayed;  let  the  ground  be 
dug  and  made  firm.  Plant  rather  thinly  and 
tread  the  soil  well.  Pieces  pulled  from  the 
old  plants  with  or  without  roots  will  grow  freely 
if  kept  moist ;  they  should  be  planted  4  inches 
to  6  inches  deep,  leaving  about  3  inches  of  the 
tops  above  the  soil. 

Violets  in  frames  will  now  be  blooming  freely  ; 
keep  the  roots  moist  and  remove  the  lights  on  all 
favourable  occasions.  As  soon  as  the  flowering 
period  is  past,  lose  no  time  in  propagating  a  fresh 
stock  for  another  season.  Young  side  pieces 
taken  from  the  old  plants  with  roots  attached 
and  planted  on  a  west  border,  or  north  in  the 
warmer  parts,  1  foot  apart,  the  soil  made  rather 
firm  and  watered  at  intervals,  should  the  weather 
prove  dry,  will  make  fine  plants  by  September. 
Hakdy  Fruit. 
Strawberry  Beds. — When  the  weather  is  favour- 
able, permanent  beds  will  need  attention.  Re- 
move weeds  and  some  of  the  old  dead  leaves, 
dress  with  soot,  and  mulch  between  the  rows 
and  close  up  to  the  plants  with  strawy  litter. 
This  will,  by  the  fruiting  season,  have  been 
washed  clean  by  the  rains  and  be  perfectly  sweet 
for  the  fruits  to  rest  upon. 

Grafting. — As  soon  as  the  bark  parts  freely 
from  the  wood,  grafting  may  be  taken  in  hand. 
At  all  times  when  grafting  or  regrafting  is  to  be 
performed,  let  the  stock  be  a  little  in  advance  of 
the  scion.  The  varieties  I  intend  to  increase  for 
culinary  purposes  are  Bramley's  Seedling, 
Chelmsford  Wonder,  Lane's  Prince  Albert, 
Newton  Wonder  and  Gooseberry  Apple.  Dessert : 
Baxter's  Pearmain,  Lord  Burghley,  Bamack 
Beauty,  Northern  Spy  and  Lord  Hindlip. 

Plums.  ^These  we  have  washed  repeatedly 
with  quassia  extract,  and  any  main  branches 
infested  with  scale  with  caustic  alkali.  Bull- 
finches must  be  checked  in  some  way  should 
they  attack  the  buds,  and  before  the  whole  of 
the  crop  is  destroyed. 

Vegetable  Garden. 
Potatoes. — As  soon  as  the  land  is  in  a  fit  state 
the  planting  of  Potatoes  may  be  pushed  forward. 
The  early  varieties  to  follow  those  which  may  be 
growing  in  frames  should  be  given  a  warm 
position.  Our  first  crop  from  outside  are  those 
which  have  been  planted  close  to  the  foot  of  a 
wall  in  front  of  the  glass-houses.  May  Queen  and 
Rivers'  Early  Ashleaf  being  the  varieties.  The 
land  best  suited  for  the  production  of  good 
(juality  tubers  is  that  of  a  deep  and  rather  sandy 
loam,  which  has  been  manured  for  some 
previous  crop. 

Peas  and  Broad  Beans.  —  Sow  these  to  follow 
the  early  varieties.  Early  Giant,  Criterion,  and 
any  of  the  approved  wrinkled  Marrowfats  may 
be  selected.     Those  just  above  the  soil  should  be 


given  a  good  dressing  of  soot  and  wood-ashes 
prior  to  drawing  a  little  soil  over  and  among 
them  in  frosty  weather.  Stake  them  early,  and 
should  the  weather  prove  very  cold,  a  few  pieces 
of  Spruce  or  Portugal  Laurel  inserted  along  the 
side  of  the  rows  will  greatly  protect  them  from 
cutting  winds.  Give  plenty  of  air  in  mild 
weather  to  early  Potatoes,  Carrots,  Turnips, 
Lettuces,  &c.,  growing  in  frames,  to  prevent 
them  from  getting  drawn.  Prick  ofl'  Celery,  Let- 
tuces, Cauliflowers,  and  any  other  seedling  plants 
growing  under  glass,  and  encourage  them  to 
grow  away  freely.  Cauliflowers  raised  from  seed 
last  September  may  now  be  planted  out  on  good 
rich  land  18  inches  apart,  and  20  inches  from  row 
to  row.  Brussels  Sprouts  and  many  other  seeds 
may  now  be  sown  in  small  beds  ;  give  the 
land  a  good  dressing  with  soot  prior  to  sowing 
the  seed.  H.  Mabkham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 

FOR   THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower  Garden. 
Climbing  Plants.— The  early  part  of  April  is  a 
very  suitable  time  for  planting  various  subjects 
for  furnishing  pergolas  or  other  structures.  If 
the  plants  are  established  in  pots,  little  or  no 
check  will  be  given  in  the  operation  ;  but  if 
raised  from  the  soil,  thereby  causing  much  dis- 
turbance of  the  root  system,  attention  to  water- 
ing in  dry  periods  and  protection  from  drying 
winds  will  be  of  much  assistance.  Roses  of 
trailing  habit  stand  pre-eminent  for  the  purpose, 
and  a  selection  from  the  Tea,  Noisette  and 
wichuraiana  classes  would  ensure  ample  foliage 
and  a  varied  and  brilliant  inflorescence  for  a  long 
season.  Bouquet  d'Or,  Captain  Christy,  Reine 
Marie  Henriette,  Ards  Rover,  Mme.  Berard, 
Grilss  an  Teplitz,  Gloire  de  Dijon  and  W.  A. 
Richardson  are  among  the  best  of  the  former ; 
while  the  latter  consist  of  such  as  Dorothy 
Perkins,  Lady  Gay,  Longworth  Rambler,  Rubin, 
Leuchtstern,  The  Garland  and  Crimson  Rambler. 

Clematises.— The  small-flowering  varieties  of 
these,  such  as  C.  montana,  C.  Flammula  and  C. 
Vitalba  are  well  adapted  for  quickly  covering 
unsightly  objects  or  for  trailing  upon  tree  stems, 
while  the  many  beautiful  forms  of  the  genus, 
such  as  C.  patens,  C.  lanuginosa  and  C.  Jack- 
manii  varieties,  are  suitable  for  most  positions. 
The  white  and  the  purple  forms  of  the  last 
named  are  probably  the  most  widely  known,  and 
are  the  hardiest  and  most  free  flowering  of  the 
order.  These  should  be  pruned  rather  severely 
now,  as  flowers  are  produced  upon  the  young 
shoots  ;  but  with  the  others  this  takes  place 
upon  the  previous  year's  wood,  hence  a  moderate 
thinning  of  this  in  spring  sufliees. 

Loniceras,  Vitis,  Jasminuiiis  and  Ampdopsis 
in  considerable  variety  are  excellent  for 
Northern  gardens ;  of  the  latter  A.  Veitchii  is 
one  of  the  best  for  clinging  to  a  wall.  Tropso- 
lum  speeiosum,  though  somewhat  uncertain, 
thrives  well  in  places  against  a  wall  or  fence ; 
established  among  shrubs,  the  slender,  leafy 
growths  studded  with  flowers  in  late  summer, 
and  later  with  violet-coloured  berries,  display 
both  beauty  and  gracefulness. 

Edgings  should  be  put  in  order.  Box  may  be 
entirely  replanted,  or,  failing  this,  any  gaps 
made  up.  Other  edging  plants,  such  as  Thrift 
Grass,  Saxifrages,  Daisies  or  other  evergreen 
subjects,  may  be  replanted  or  restricted  to  a 
well-defined  line,  according  to  the  necessity  of 
the  ease.  Ivy  upon  walls  may  be  closely  cut, 
with  every  prospect  of  the  bareness  occasioned 
thereby  being  of  short  duration.  Laurels  and 
other  common  shrubs  may  be  out  back,  but  the 
Portugal  species,  as  well  as  Rhododendrons  and 
Hollies,  would  be  better  left  for  a  while. 
Bedding  Plants. 

Oeraniums  potted  some  time  ago  should  be 
frequently  pinched  to  induce  sturdiness,  and  if 


in  warm  houses  be  transferred  to  frames  as  soon 
as  this  course  is  considered  safe. 

Begonia  Tubers  of  two  OB  more  years'  growth 
that  have  been  started  in  warmth  may  likewise 
be  moved  to  frames  before  the  growths  become 
drawn.  Last  year's  seedlings  may  be  alforded 
more  warmth  to  promote  strength,  more  especially 
so  if  a  position  near  the  glass  can  be  given 
them.  Seedlings  of  all  descriptions  should  be 
pricked  out  from  the  seed-bed  before  crowding 
takes  place  ;  some  kinds  will  require  a  genial 
temperature  to  enable  them  to  attain  sufficient 
size  by  the  end  of  May,  while  others  will  advance 
rapidly  enough  if  protected  from  frosts  and  ccld 
winds. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Seed-sowing. — If  through  stress  of  weather  the 
sowing  of  any  important  crop  has  been  deferred, 
advantage  should  be  taken  when  the  soil  is  in 
good  condition  to  rectify  this. 

Carrots.— The  main  crop  of  these  may  now  be 
sown,  and  a  dressing  of  soot  previously  in- 
corporated with  the  surface  soil  will  tend  to 
circumvent  the  attentions  of  the  Carrot  fly.  To 
grow  fine  specimens,  deep  holes  should  be  made 
with  a  pointed  bar,  and  these  bein^  filled  with 
finely  sifted  sandy  soil  and  all  made  firm,  sowing 
and  covering  in  the  usual  way  may  follow. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

Galloway  House,  Oarlieaton,  Wigtownshire. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 

Early  Daffodils  from  Mr.  Peter  Barr. 

Mr.  Peter  Barr,  V.M.H.,  writes  this  welcome 
letter;  "  I  am  sending  you  my  first  Daffodils— 
N.  minimus  was  out  three  weeks  ago  ;  the  first 
N.  pallidus  prascox,  two  weeks  ago.  Of  the  last 
mentioned,  more  came  out  a  week  ago  ;  but  as  if 
afraid  of  the  night  frosts,  most  keep  under 
ground  and  are  just  appearing  through  the  soil. 
Of  N.  cyclamineus  only  one  has  appeared,  and  I 
send  it  to  you  ;  the  same  with  N.  nanus." 

Odontoglossums  from  Epsom. 
Mr.  George  Boyd,  gardener  to  S.  F.  Jackson, 
Esq.,  Danehurst,  Epsom,  sends  us  splendid 
racemes  of  Odontoglossums,  which  show  signs 
of  remarkably  good  cultivation  and  which  were 
most  welcome  on  a  dull  day.  He  writes  :  ''  I 
fear  your  flower-bowl  has  had  to  sufi'er  somewhat 
lately  on  account  of  the  long  spell  of  sharp 
weather  ;  therefore  I  enclose  you  half-a-dozen  of 
our  Odontoglossums  in  variety.  They  are 
typical  of  the  varieties  represented,  viz.,  O. 
crispum,  0.  c.  Trianie,  0.  Pesoatorei,  0.  Mulus, 
0.  andersonianum  and  0.  Adrianas.  They  can- 
not be  termed  good,  as  we  understand  it,  yet 
they  are  too  good  to  be  discarded,  so  we  grow 
them  in  abundance  to  supply  cut  flowers  ;  and  I 
think  you  will  agree  with  me  that  for  this 
purpose  it  is  hard  to  find  their  equal.  Those 
who  have  to  supply  high-class  cut  flowers  for 
decorative  purposes  in  winter  should  certainly 
grow  Odontoglossums.  If  the  ease  \\ith  which 
these  lovely  subjects  can  be  grown  and  flowered 
were  more  generally  known,  I  do  not  think  there 
would  be  many  establishments  of  any  dimensions 
without  an  Odontoglossum  house.  We  winter 
ours  in  a  temperature  of  about  50°  :  through  the 
summer  the  thermometer  often  rises  to  70°,  but 
this  does  no  harm  provided  plenty  of  moisture  is 
maintained.  They  must  be  well  shaded  during  hot, 
bright  weather  and  plenty  of  air  given  on  all  suit- 
able occasions.  Through  the  winter  and  dull 
periods  plenty  of  light  must  be  given.  A  good 
potting  compost  consists  of  good  fibrous  peat, 
sphagnum  moss  and  partly  decayed  Oak  leaves, 
with  a  little  silver  sand.  Leaf-mould  should  not 
be  used,  as  it  makes  the  compost  too  solid,  when 
it  should  be  porous.  Pots  are  drained  with 
the  rhizomes  from  the  peat  after  they  have  been 
thoroughly  dried  to  ensure  they  do  not  grow. 


April  3,  1909.  J 


THE    GARDEN. 


171 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Sophro-Cattl.i:lia  Clive.  —  This  charming 
Orchid  has  a  rather  mixed  parentage,  it  being 
the  result  of  a  cross  between  Sophro-Laelia 
Psyche  and  Cattleya  Enid.  The  flowers  are 
rather  small,  of  Cattleya  shape  and  of  a  rich 
terra-cotta  or  sort  of  dull  scarlet  hue,  the  lip 
being  crimson,  with  rich  yellow  markings  in 
the  throat.  Shown  by  J.  Gurney  Fowler,  Esq. , 
The  Glebelands,  South  Woodford.  Award  of 
merit. 

Brasso-Oattleya  digbyana  Mendelii  Perjecta. — 
This  i.s  a  very  large-flowered  form  and  some- 
what deeper  in  colour  than  the  type,  the  mauve 
colour  being  more  rosy  and  pronounced.  The 
yellow  marking  on  the  highly  fimbriated  labellum 
is  also  deeper,  and  the  flowers  are  certainly  very 
fine. 

Dendrobium  schrdderianum  Westonbirt  variety. 
A  very  beautiful  variety  of  considerable  decora- 
tive value.  The  medium-sized  flowers  are  freely 
borne  on  long,  stout  stems,  the  sepals,  petals 
and  labellum  having  a  creamy  white  ground 
colour,  with  deep  rosy  mauve  markings  at  the 
tips  of  the  segments.  In  addition  the  labellum 
has  a  large,  very  rich  yellow  blotch  placed  in 
the  centre.  Both  the  above  were  shown  by 
Lieutenant  -  Colonel  Holford,  CLE.,  C.V.O., 
Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire,  and  each 
received  an  award  of  merit. 

Pteris  aquiliiui  conyeata. — The  varietal  name 
in  this  case  is  so  descriptive  of  the  dense,  con- 
gested character  of  the  overlapping  pinn«  that 
little  further  need  be  said  beyond  the  fact  that 
it  is  the  most  remarkable  variation  in  the  common 
Bracken  that  we  have  seen.  The  plant  is,  of 
course,  as  hardy  as  the  type  and  obviously  very 
free  in  growth.  We  have  seen  many  acres  of 
this  well-known  typical  species  without  the  least 
sign  of  a  break,  and  we  believe  the  present  in- 
stance to  be  one  of  the  very  few  that  are  known. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons,  Edmon- 
ton.    First-class  certificate. 

Rose  Rhea  Reid. — This  American-raised  novelty 
is  the  result  of  crossing  American  Beauty 
and  Red  Seedling,  and  as  a  summer  bedding 
variety,  both  in  Paris  and  America  last  season, 
it  is  said  to  have  proved  to  be  the  finest  of 
outdoor  varieties,  bearing  the  unprecedented 
drought  with  impuniby  and  providing  a  sheet 
of  crimson-scarlet  throughout  the  summer. 
As  exhibited  recently  before  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  as  a  forcing  variety  the 
colour  was  pale  red,  the  blooms  Very  full 
and  the  older  petals  rolled  back  at  the 
margin,  as  is  the  case  with  La  France  and 
others.  Whether  the  remarkable  discrepancy 
of  colour  as  stated  above  is  due  to  the  forcing 
treatment  and  the  absence  of  winter  sun  in 
England,  we  do  not  know  ;  but  in  America  its 
success  as  a  forcing  variety  is  said  to  be  variable. 
The  variety  is  certainly  a  free-flowering  one,  and 
if  it  can  endure  long-continued  drought  will  not 
be  wanting  admirers  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
It  is,  we  believe,  from  the  same  source  as  the 
welcome  and  now  indispensable  Richmond. 

Crocus  Sieberi  versicolor. — One  of  the  most 
charming  varieties  we  have  seen  and,  we  believe, 
quite  a  rarity.  The  flowers  appear  contempora- 
neously with  the  striated  leaves,  the  segments 
nearly  oval  in  shape,  the  outer  ones  daintly 
marked  with  dark  violet  or  plum  and  shaded 
with  red.  This  delightful  flower  was  shown  by 
Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  Keston,  Kent.     Award  of  merit. 

Begonia  hydrocotylifolia  Saturne. — A  very 
showy  and  handsome  plant  for  the  greenhouse 
or  conservatory.  The  rotundate-eordate  leaves 
are  almost  equal  sided,  dark  green,  and  form 
a  thickly  set,  spreading  tuft  of  nearly  18  inches 
in  diameter,  above  which  the  strong,  succulent, 
pilose  flower-stems  rise  to  2  feet  or  more  in 
height.  The  flowers  are  of  rosy  salmon  hue,  and 
are  produced  in  seound  racemes  of  considerable 
length.  Altogether  a  striking  and  very  attrac- 
tive plant.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Cannell  and 
Sons,  Swanley,  Kent.     Awaid  of  merit. 


Carnation  Rose  Dore. — A  Perpetual-flowering 
Carnation  of  the  largest  siz;e,  well  formed,  very 
full,  with  non-splitting  calyx  and  long  and  strong 
stems.  The  colour  is  of  rose  red  hue,  an  inter- 
mediate tone  difficult  adequately  to  convey  in 
words.  Shown  by  Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire, 
Guernsey.     Award  of  merit. 

Cineraria,  large  Cactus-Jloioered.  —  Messrs. 
Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  obtained  an  award  of 
merit  for  their  "Compacta"  strain  of  the  large 
Cactus-flowered  Cineraria,  a  strain  which  re- 
presents the  true  Cactus-petalled  form  in  the 
large-flowered  or  florist's  varieties  of  these  plants. 
We  have  nothing  but  praise  for  these  perfect 
examples  of  cultural  skill  or  for  the  decorative 
value  of  the  strain  as  a  whole,  and  for  which  we 
predict  a  great  popularity.  The  many  shades 
and  gradations  of  colour  are  as  interesting  as 
they  are  beautiful. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  23rd  ult. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


PRIMULA    SINENSIS    AT 
SWANLEY. 

VISITORS  to  the  fortnightly  meetings 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
see  from  time  to  time  the  Primula 
productions  of  Messrs.  H.  Cannell 
and  Sons,  Swanley,  Kent,  that 
"Home  of  Flowers,"  as  it  is  called, 
and  where  so  much  enthusiasm  prevails  in  the 
improvement  of  a  large  number  of  well-known 
florists'  flowers.  The  exhibits  of  Messrs.  Cannell 
in  London  I  had  seen  and  known  for  years  past, 
and  as  I  was  not  unacquainted  with  the  "  Home 
of  Flowers "  at  other  seasons  of  the  year,  I 
determined  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  firm's  famous 
strains  of  Primulas  at  first  hand,  and  so  acted  on 
the  well-known  invitation  to  "come  and  see." 
In  former  years  I  nad  seen  the  many  thousands 
of  plants  that  are  here  grown  exclusively  for  seed- 
saving  purposes,  either  when  the  flowering  was 
just  over,  or  at  a  later  date  when  the  plants  were 
fast  ripening  their  abundant  crops  of  seeds.  This 
season,  however,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the 
fine  collection  ot  chiefly  named  sorts  in  perfection 
and  when  the  houses  of  flowering  plants  were 
simply  a  blaze  of  colour. 

In  the  large-flowered  class  Messrs.  Cannell 
have  some  particularly  good  things  to  show, 
varieties  whose  handsome,  clear-out,  or  heavily 
fringed  flowers  command  attention  at  once, 
while  in  the  stellata  or  star-flowered  group  the 
majority  were  of  the  highest  degree  of  merit, 
and  in  one  or  two  instances  nearly,  if  not  quite, 
unique.  As  Messrs.  Cannell  pointed  to  first  this 
and  then  to  that  fine  acquisition  in  the  Primula 
family,  placing  here  a  rule  over  a  flower  that 
exceeded  2g  inches  in  diameter,  and  there 
another  that  exceeded  3  inches  across,  one 
entered  somewhat  into  the  enthusiam  of  the 
Principal,  who  viewed  with  justifiable  pride  the 
work  of  years  in  the  cross-breeding  and  selection 
of  this  indispensable  race  of  plants.  The 
work  of  improvement  goes  on  year  after  year, 
despite  the  fact  that  the  varieties  we  see  to-day 
are  of  the  highest  merit  and  excellence. 

In  the  Primula  family,  however — while  the 
major  portion  of  the  named  varieties  are  so  fixed 
in  character  as  to  reproduce  themselves  abso- 
lutely true  when  raised  from  seeds — there  would 
appear  no  sort  of  finality,  no  stage,  so  to  speak,  to 
be  regarded  as  hopeless  by  the  cross-breeder,  and 
no  variety  of  such  an  acme  of  perfection  that  it 
will  not  yield  to  the  influence  of  another  when 
crossed  with  it.  In  other  words,  instead  of  the 
Chinese  Primula  having  reached  the  zenith  of  its 
power,  or  being  worked  out  or  rendered  barren 
or  sterile  as  the  result  of  many  generations  of 
cross-breeding,  there  is  still  the  same  room  in 
certain  directions  for  great  improvements  as  of 
yore,  and  just  as  muoli  of  the  old-time  sportive 
element   m   certain   sections   of    the    flower    as 


formerly.  All  this  and  much  more  is  fully 
realised  at  Swanley  to-day  as  for  years  past,  and 
painstaking,  intelligent  work  and  patient  waiting 
reap  their  reward  in  due  course. 

One  of  the  sections  of  Messrs.  Cannell's  Primulas 
that  interested  me  greatly  was  the  stellata  set, 
and  in  which  were  noted  some  remarkable 
varieties,  such  as  Scarlet  Gem,  a  most  brilliant 
shade  of  colour ;  Unique,  a  rosy  white  with 
decided  Duchess  centre  ;  The  Lady,  a  pioneer 
of  the  stellata  group,  having  dark  stems  and 
leaves,  and  white,  yellow-eyed  blossoms  ;  Lady 
Emily  and  Lady  E.  Dyke,  with  flowers  of  the 
fairest  white  ;  with  others  to  which  the  descrip- 
tive colour  names  of  White  Spray,  Blue  Lady, 
Red  Rover  and  Salmon  Beauty  have  been  given. 
Countess  of  Radnor  is  an  especially  good  sort, 
with  blossoms  of  a  brilliant  fiery  red,  possessing, 
like  the  others  I  have  named,  all  the  best 
attributes  of  these  now  popular  Star  Primulas. 

Equally  telling  and  effective  were  many  of  the 
giants  of  the  race,  or  the  large-flowered  section  ; 
and  while  I  am  not  intent  on  making  a  catalogue 
of  names  that  is  available  for  all,  I  cannot 
refrain  from  a  notice  of  such  superb  varieties  as 
Mr.  John  Ward,  a  brilliant  red  flower ;  Mrs. 
Kennard,  rosy  purple ;  Mrs.  C.  Ward,  an 
exquisite  soft  pink ;  Moonlight,  a  magnificent  pure 
white  sort  with  blossoms  nearly  3  inches  across  ; 
Queen  Alexandra,  a  lovely  pure  white  of  large 
size,  the  handsome  trusses  well  above  the  foliage  ; 
Mr.  Marlow,  rosy  salmon ;  and  A.  G.  Gardiner, 
of  a  rich  reddish  carmine  shade.  Apart  from 
these  there  were  many  others  in  shades  of  blue, 
and  that  other  beautiful  set  which  is  known  as 
Fern-leaf,  and  in  which  also  a  large  and 
diversified  array  of  colour  is  to  be  found.  These 
are  but  a  few  of  the  many  choice  things  to  be 
met  with  in  the  collection,  the  plants  being 
crowned  by  fine  trusses  or  pyramids  of  blossoms 
that  will  doubtless  produce  a  rich  harvest  of 
seeds  in  due  time.  Messrs.  Cannell  recommend 
sowing  the  seeds  in  May  and  again  in  June, 
and  as  a  matter  of  fact  practise  what  they 
preach.  E.  H.  J. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Ansv/ers,— The  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  toith  that  object  loill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  Answers  to  Correspondents"  cohtmn.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  ^0,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  bicsiness  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHER. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  qttery  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Water  and  rock  garden  (H.  P.  M. ). 

The  depth  of  water  in  the  tank  will  not  admit 
of  the  larger  Water  Lilies  being  grown  long  with 
success,  but  in  the  centre  you  might  plant 
Nymph^a  Marliaoea  carnea,  and  at  the  sides 
such  plants  as  Stratiotes  aloides,  Sagittaria 
japonica  plena  and  Butomus  umbellatus.  The 
plants  should  be  sunk  into  position  in  pots  of 
soil  loaded  with  stones  on  the  surface.  In  the 
bog  garden  you  might  plant  a  host  of  plants,  as 
Trilliums,  any  of  the  hardy  Cypripediums, 
such  Lilies  as  canadense,  superbum  and  parda- 
linum,  Primula  Sieboldii  in  variety,  P.  rosea, 
P.  dentioulata,  Pamassias,  Anemone  robin- 
soniana,  A.  rivularis,  Gentiana  Andrewsii,  G. 
asclepiadea  and,  if  you  have  room.  Iris  KEempferi 
in  one  or  two  varieties.  The  soil  for  this  part 
should  be  peat  and  loam  etjually  with  one-third  of 


17-2 


THE    GARDEN. 


[April  3,  1909. 


manure  and  the  same  o£  sand,  mixing  all  well 
together.  In  the  rook  garden  you  might  select 
at  will  from  such  groups  as  iSaxifragi,  Androsace 
lanuginosa,  alpine  Phloxes,  Aubrietias,  Cam- 
panulas, Dianthus,  Lithospermum,  Arnebia 
echioides  and  other  such  plants.  Generally 
speaking,  a  soil  of  gritty  loam  will  be  the  best 
for  all  these. 

Sub-tpopical  plants  for  bedding: 

{Salop). — The  variegated  Maize  to  which  you 
refer  would,  in  our  opinion,  be  so  out  of  propor- 
tion to  the  Begonias  and  so  generally  unfit  for 
an  exposed  position  that  we  doubt  whether  it 
would  prove  a  serviceable  plant  for  the  purpose. 
At  the  same  time,  the  number  of  plants  of  a  sub- 
tropical character  that  are  easily  raised  from 
seeds  is  not  numerous.  The  most  suitable  are 
Centaurea  eandidissima  (white  foliage)  and 
Koohia  tricophylla  (Summer  Cypress),  which, 
green  at  first,  turns  to  red  in  the  autumn. 
Small  examples  of  the  Castor  Oil  Plant  might 
also  prove  of  service,  and  we  have  seen  the  thin 
under-planting  of  the  variegated  Cock's-foot 
Grass  produce  excellent  results  in  a  case  like 
your  own.  The  last  named  could  not  be  raised 
from  seeds,  though  the  others  may  be. 

Hyacinths  and  Lobelia  (C™.r).  You  do  not 
say  whether  the  Hyacinths  aie  all  of  one  variety,  and,  even 
if  so,  it  does  not  follow  that  growth  will  commence  at  the 
same  time  in  each  case.  Not  all  the  blossoms  on  a  plant 
open  at  one  time,  and  we  are  .grateful  for  it,  nor  can  we 
expect  perfect  uniformity  in  growth.  No  good  will  be 
done  with  manures  at  this  stage,  bat  a  little  patience  might 
avail  much.  For  the  centre  of  the  bed  you  might  try 
scarlet  or  crimson  tuberous  Begonias,  or  the  very  free- 
rtowering  Salvia  Oloire  de  Zurich.  The  Lobelia  seeds  to 
have  made  the  strongest  plants  should  have  been  sown 
some  weeks  ago,  but  if  you  sow  at  once  the  plants  will 
still  flower  this  year.  .Sow  the  seeds  quite  thinly  in  boxes 
or  pans,  and  place  in  a  warm,  moist  greenhouse,  pricking 
the  seedlings  off  and  growing  them  on  quickly  when  large 
enough  to  handle. 

Violets  diseased  iJuanito). — The  disease  is  the 
result  of  a  fungus  known  as  Urocystis  Violfe,  which  is 
most  troublesome  and  often  destructive.  Ttiere  is  no 
known  cure,  but  preventive  measures  in  the  shape  of 
sulphide  of  potassium  might  be  adopted  periodically  from 
August  onwards,  using  the  sulphide  at  the  rate  of  half  an 
ounce  to  the  gallon  of,  preferably,  soft  water.  The  better 
way  would  be  to  burn  the  plants,  as  the  fungus  invades 
.  the  tissues  of  the  plant  to  some  extent  and  cannot  be 
wholly  eradicated.  If  you  burn  the  plants,  you  should  also 
discard,  either  by  burning  or  burying,  the  whole  of  the 
soil,  and  then  thoroughly  cleanse  the  frame  by  washing 
with  an  emulsion  of  soft  soap  and  sulphur.  The  sulphur 
should  first  be  wetted  into  a  thick  paste,  gradually  adding 
more  water,  together  with  the  dissolved  soft  soap.  Half 
a  pound  of  the  soap  and  lib.  of  sulphur  will  be  sufficient 
for  three  or  four  gallons. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Manuring     autumn-planted 

Roses  (Aiyibitiotis). — As  you  did  not  afford 
any  manure  at  the  time  of  planting,  you  may 
safely  give  them  some  now,  and  you  will  find 
Wakeley's  Hop  Manure  an  excellent  fertiliser. 
After  you  have  pruned  the  plants  give  them  a 
light  sprinkling  of  the  manure,  and  have  this 
just  forked  beneath  the  soil.  About  tha  middle 
of  May  the  plants  may  receive  another  light 
sprinkling,  this  time  hoeing  it  in.  We  should 
say  a  '281b.  bag  would  be  suilioient  for  the  season 
for  your  plants.  When  the  plants  have  become 
well  established  a  much  stronger  sprinkling  may 
be  given,  but  it  is  advisable  to  be  cautious  in 
manuring  newly  planted  Roses.  The  varieties 
you  name  are  all  good  exhibition  sorts,  with 
the  exception  of  Warrior  and  Mme.  Ravary,  they 
being  too  thin  for  exhibition,  although  beautiful 
garden  decorative  sorts.  The  Sweet  Peas  you 
name  are  all  well-proved  varieties.  The  naming 
of  the  varieties  when  exhibited  should  always 
be  practised,  and,  no  doubt,  judges  make  a  note 
of  this  when  giving  their  awards.  You  must 
certainly  try  your  hand  at  exhibiting  on  July  28. 
Prior  to  this,  we  should  advise  you  to  visit  some 
good  Rose  show,  also  a  Sweet  Pea  show,  and 
watch  exhibitors  put  up  their  exhibits,  taking 
note  of  the  style  of  arranging,  as  so  much 
depends  upon  this.  For  exhibiting  Roses  you 
should  obtain  Foster's  Rose-tubes.  They  are  a 
great  aid  and  enable  the  exhibitor  to  display  his 


blooms  to  the  best  advantage.  There  is  also  a 
great  art  in  tying  a  Rose  bloom,  which  a  visit  to 
an  exhibition  would  help  you  to  copy. 

Rose  Mapeclial  Nlel  shedding;  its  neur 
foliage  (*r.  T.  iV.).— Sometimes  canker  will  cause  the 
new  foliage  to  fall,  hub  this  cannot  be  the  case  with  your 
plant,  seeing  that  it  made  growths  last  season  some  IS  feet 
to  20  feet  in  length.  It  is  dithcult  to  assign  a  reason 
without  seeing  the  plant  or  the  soil  it  is  growing  in,  but  it 
looks  to  us  like  a  case  of  too  much  moisture  at  the  roots 
or  a  too  heavy  dose  of  artificial  manure.  We  do  not  think 
the  sulphur  fumes  would  be  the  cause  of  the  foliage  falling, 
unless  they  were  very  strong.  The  growths  may  have  been 
insufliciently  ripened,  or  perhaps  you  did  not  remove  the 
unripe  ends  of  the  growths  before  starting  the  plant  this 
season.  We  advise  you  to  be  very  careful  in  applying 
water.  When  once  the  soil  is  well  moistened,  this,  with  the 
syringing,  will  supply  all  the  moisture  the  plant  needs  for 
sometime.  If  you  care  to  give  us  some  details  of  your 
treatment  of  the  Rose,  we  shall  be  pleased  to  give  you 
further  advice. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Tulip  buds  dying  off  (Ard  Coilh).— 
Without  more  detailed  information  it  is  difficult 
to  say  what  is  the  exact  cause  of  the  buds  going 
off  as  they  have  done.  It  is  very  improbable 
that  it  was  the  syringing  with  Abol,  unless 
the  boxes  had  already  been  in  a  very  water- 
logged condition  and  this  particular  syringing 
was  the  last  straw.  Too  much  damp  at  the 
roots  will  cause  it.  We  would  also  suggest  that 
it  may  have  been  caused  by  suddenly  bringing 
the  plants  into  a  greater  heat  than  they  could 
stand.  We  have  seen  one  or  two  examples 
lately  where  this  was  undoubtedly  the  cause. 
On  the  other  hand,  it  cannot  always  be  explained. 
We  have  seen  within  the  last  week  two  pots  of 
Darwin  Tulips,  where,  out  of  six  bulbs,  four  in 
one  case  and  five  in  the  other  flowered  quite 
nicely,  but  the  others  went  off  exactly  like 
yours.  What  happened  it  is  impossible  to  say,  as 
there  was  no  ditierence  either  in  the  roots  or  the 
foliage  and  there  was  ample  root  room. 

Raising-  new  Peppetual-flowepine: 
CaPnations  (California). — The  hybridising 
or  cross-fertilisation  of  the  Perpetual-flowering 
Carnations  is  not  at  all  a  difficult  matter.  Of 
course,  a  great  deal  of  the  success  or  otherwise 
depends  upon  the  selection  of  the  parents.  As 
the  object  is  to  improve  the  present  race,  no 
Carnation  should  be  selected  as  a  parent  that 
shows  any  failing  whatever.  Habit,  freedom  of 
flowering  and  non-liability  to  burst  the  calyx 
are  very  important  points  to  be  taken  into 
consideration.  As  a  rule,  too,  little  is  gained 
by  mixing  up  the  different  colours,  the  greatest 
amount  of  satisfaction  being  derived  when 
the  crossing  is  limited  to  the  various  shades  of 
one  colour  ;  that  is  to  say,  pinks  and  roses  with 
each  other,  and  reds  the  same,  as  well  as  whites. 
Examination  of  a  Carnation  bloom  will  reveal 
the  fact  that  the  curved,  horn-like  stigmas  furnish 
a  prominent  feature  of  the  flower,  the  anthers 
with  the  pollen  being  on  short  stems  and  grouped 
at  the  base  of  the  stigmas.  To  prevent  these 
last  being  self-fertilised,  the  flower  should,  just 
before  expansion,  be  cut  open,  making  a  slit  with 
a  sharp  penknife  just  where  the  anthers  are. 
Then,  by  the  help  of  a  pair  of  small  tweeters, 
the  anthers  can  be  remo\'ed.  The  flower  will 
be  open  a  few  days  before  the  stigmas  are  ready 
for  the  pollen.  This  is  shown  by  the  upper 
side  becoming  somewhat  woolly.  It  is  then  an 
easy  matter  to  collect  the  pollen  from  any 
selected  flower  on  a  email  camel-hair  brush  and 
apply  it  to  the  stigmas.  Fertilisation  soon 
shows  itself  by  the  withering  of  the  flower  and 
the  subsequent  formation  of  a  seed-pod.  After 
this  care  must  be  taken  that  no  damp  is 
allowed  to  collect  around  the  ovary,  otherwise 
the  seed-pod  is  liable  to  damp  off.  The  book  by 
Mr.  AUwood  deals  with  cross-fertilising  and 
raising  plants  from  seed. 

Gepanium  leaves  grolngr  wrong  (.iH.r"iu»).— 
There  ia  no  doubt  that  the  fumes  of  sulphur  have  caused 
the  leaves  of  the  Geraniums  to  go  otf  in  the  way  they  have 
done.  Sulphuring  the  pipes,  though  it  may  be  done  In  the 
case  of  deciduous  subjects  that  are  absolutely  dormant, 


should  never  be  carried  out  \vheu  any  of  the  occupants  of 
the  house  are  in  leaf.  We  do  not  think  that  the  lime- 
wash  had  anything  U>  do  with  the  trouble. 


AlISCELLANEOUS. 

Names    of    plants.  ~J-   WUliomf.  —  Maxillaria 

Meleagris. C.  A.  0.— Galanthus  Elwesii.— F.  A,  S.— 

1,  Daybreak;  "2,  Euchantress ;  3,  Eloriana;  4,  Harlowarden  ; 
0,  Britannia  ;  6,  looks  like  C.  K.  Dana  ;  7,  Mrs.  T.  W. 
Lawaon.     We  canjiot  be  sure  of  the  two  last,  as  the  flowers 

are  quite  out  of  character. .1.  Hatcki m/.—The  Snowdrop 

is  Galanthus  Elwesii ;  the  Heath,  Erica  carnea. 


SOCIETIES. 


READING    AND    DISTRICT    GARDENERS' 

ASSOCIATION. 
A  MOST  iutereatiug  and  entertainioti  lecture  was  given  in 
connexion  with  the  above  society  on  Monday,  March  Sth, 
iu  the  Abbey  Hall,  Reading,  by  Mr.  \Y.  F.  Giles,  one  of 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Son's  vegetable  experts,  the  subject 
being  "  Vegetables  Old  and  New."  The  lecture  was  illus- 
trated by  a  collection  of  about  100  lantern  slides.  Mr. 
A.  F.  Bailey  (chairman)  presided,  and  there  was  an  ex- 
ceptionally large  attendance  of  members.  Mr.  Giles 
opened  his  remarks  by  tracing  the  antiquity  of  some 
vegetables  which  still  find  favour  in  our  own  time, 
reminding  his  hearers  that  the  Israelites,  in  their  wander- 
ings, murmured  at  being  deprived  of  the  Leeks  and  Ouiona 
which  they  bad  enjoyed  during  their  sojourn  in  Egypt. 
Records  concerning  Radishes,  too,  are  to  be  found  de- 
picted on  the  Pyramids.  Pliny  also  was  an  authority  on  the 
vegetables  used  by  the  ill-fated  inhabitants  of  Pompeii. 
The  lecturer  then  drew  attention  to  the  fact  that  if  in 
science,  arts  and  commerce  we  had  advanced  by  leaps  and 
bounds,  it  was  equally  the  case  with  regard  to  the  produc- 
tion of  new  and  impioved  vegetables.  To  give  force  to  his 
remarks  Mr.  Giles  threw  upon  the  screen  some  pictures 
taken  from  "Gerarde's  Herbal,"  published  in  1697,  show- 
ing the  type  of  vegetables  in  vogue  in  the  days  of  Good 
Queen  Bess,  and  then,  by  way  of  contrast,  illustrated 
some  of  the  magnificent  varieties  of  Peas,  Beans,  Broccoli, 
Cabbages,  Celery,  Carrots,  Onions,  Lettuces,  Leeks* 
Melons,  Tomatoes,  Turnips,  &c.,  sent  out  by  the  leading 
seed  merchants  of  the  present  day.  Mr.  Giles  then  ex- 
plained to  his  audience  what  immense  pains  are  taken  in 
selection,  re-selection,  crossing  and  re-crossing,  in  order  to 
obtain  new  and  retain  the  vigour  of  older  varieties  of 
vegetables,  drawing  attention  to  what  had  been  done  with 
garden  Peas  in  particular  since  Thomas  Andrew  Knight, 
afterwards  president  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
made  the  lirst  recorded  cross  with  Peas  in  1787.  At  the 
conclusion  of  his  lectiue  Mr.  Giles  was  warmly  applauded, 
and  at  the  close  of  the  meeting  was  accorded  a  hearty  vote 
of  thanks.  Mr.  Charles  Foster,  Assistant- Director  iu 
Horticulture,  University  College,  Reading,  exhibited  a 
splendid  collection  of  forced  vegetables,  including  As- 
paragus, Lettuces,  Radishes,  Rhubarb,  Seakale,  dec, 
which  evoked  much  admiration.  Several  new  members 
were  elected. 


BROUGHTY  FERRY  HORTICULTURAL  ASSOw.i.lTION. 

The  usual  monthly  meeting  of  the  Broughty  Ferry  Horti- 
cultural Association  was  held  in  the  British  R  ■ 'irant, 
Broughty  Ferry,  on  the  evening  of  the  16th  ult.  There 
was  a  good  attendance  of  members,  and  Mr.  ''.  Grant 
occupied  the  chair.  The  paper  for  the  evening  vas  on  the 
subject  of  "Spring  Flowers,"  and  in  it  the  author,  Mr. 
John  Carmichael,  Rosely  Gardens,  Arbroath,  gave  a  most 
pleasing  account  of  the  flowers  of  spring  and  their 
beauties  and  requirements.  One  of  the  fl.ne8t  papers  yet 
given  to  this  association,  it  met  with  marked  apprecia- 
tion, and  Mr.  Carmichael  was  warmly  thanked  for  Ms  able 
and  eloquent  address. 

CROYDON    AND    DISTRICT     HORTICULTURAL 
MUTUAL    IMPROVEMENT    SOCIETY. 

Although  not  strictly  horticultural,  there  is  a  close 
atflQity  between  birds  and  gardening,  and  this  society 
possesses  in  one  of  its  members  a  great  enthusiast  in  the 
study  of  bird-life.  Recently,  at  the  Sunflower  Temperance 
Hotel,  Mr.  P.  F.  Buuyard,  M.B.O.U.F.Z.S.,  gave  a  very 
able  lecture  on  "  A  Trip  to  the  North  Uist."  The  lecturer, 
accompanied  by  a  friend,  recently  paid  a  visit  to  this  part 
of  the  British  Isles  in  search  of  further  knowledge  in  his 
study,  and  keen  as  he  is  an  ornithologist,  he  never  loses 
an  opportunity  of  recording  items  of  interest  in  horti- 
culture, so  that  he  is  able  to  tell  his  fellow-members  what 
may  be  interesting  to  them  from  a  botanist's  point  of 
view.  The  camera  had  been  brought  into  good  requisition, 
and  from  the  photographs  taken  he  had  had  slides  made 
for  the  lantern  ;  hence,  with  the  help  of  these  views,  he 
was  able  to  portray  to  his  audience  illustrations  of  what 
may  be  found  in  vegetation  on  this  island.  North  Uist 
being  comparatively  a  small  island  and  the  soil  very  poor, 
there  is  not  much  interest  from  a  horticulturist's  point 
of  view  ;  however,  one  feature  very  noticeable  to  the 
lecturer  was  the  double  white  Pheasant's-eye  Narcissus 
growing  iu  big  quantities,  and  for  size  of  bloom  greater 
than  he  had  seen  elsewhere.  Potatoes  are  a  good  deal 
grown,  and  other  vegetables  for  domestic  use  may  be 
found.  Some  very  good  views  of  birds,  bii"ds'  nests  and 
eggs  were  shown,  and  altogether  the  lecturer  well  enter- 
tained his  audience,  who  conveyed  to  him  a  very  hearty 
vote  of  thanks  at  the  conclusion. 


GARDEN. 


^^I^fe 


-y^=^^^fiS^ 


No.  1951.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


April   10,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


Trees  and  Shrubs 
FOR  THE  Water- 
side      173 

Frizes  for  Headers      , .    174 
Notes  of  the  Week     174 
corebspondbnoe 
Forced     bulbs     and 

eel  worms       ..     ..     175 
The  new  water  gar- 
den at  Kew    . .     . .     17o 
The     Osoberry    (Nut- 
tallia  cerasiformis)    175 
Kitchen  Garden 
The     Vegetable 

Marrow 175 

Fruit  Garden 
When  to  plant  fruit 

trees 176 

Hints    on    Vine 

culture 176 

Coloured  Plate 
Pyrethrum  Langport 

Scarlet 177 

Rose  Garden 
Rose  Mme.  Melanie 

Soupert 177 

The  spring  planting 

of  Hoses 177 

Flower  Garden 
Sweet  Pea  chat       . .    178 
Polyanthus      Prim- 
roses      178 


Flower  Garden 
Daffodil    and    I'ulip 

notes       179 

Greenhouse 
The    sweet  -  scented 

Cyclamen       ..     ..     179 

Calceolaria  Burbidgei    179 

Gardening  for  Besinners 

Garden  work  week  by 

week 

Repotting  and  divid- 
ing the  Aspidistra 
How  to  treat  forced 

bulbs       

Potting  Roses   . .     . . 

The  Town  Garden  . . 

Qardenino  op  the  Week 

For  the    South   and 

South  Midlands    . . 

For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands  .. 

The     Eckford      Sweet 

Peas     

Messrs.  Carter  and  Co.'s 
Chinese  Primulas    . . 
Answers     to     Corre 
bpondents 
Flower  garden  .. 
Rose  garden 
Greenhouse 
Kitchen  garden 
Miscellaneous  . . 


ISO 

180 

181 
181 
181 


182 
18-2 
18i 
183 


183 
183 
184 
184 
184 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

The  new  Water  Lily  garden  at  Kew       175 

Rose  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert      177 

Pyrethrum  Langport  Scarlet      Coloured  plate 

The  Giant  Persian  Cyclamen  (sweet-scented)      . .     . .    178 

The  ordinary  Persian  Cyclamen  at  Reading 179 

Repotting  and  dividing  the  Aspidistra 180,181 


EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  columns  a  coTispicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  com/munications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  aiid  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Gahden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  'iiot  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  AU 
reasonable  cwre,  however,  vfill  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  vMl  endeavmir  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
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treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  ttse, 
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toUl  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


T 


Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Oarden,  W.C.         \ 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS     FOR 
THE     WATER-SIDE. 

^HE  beauty  of  a  lake  or  stream  depends 
largely  on  the  nature  of  the  plants 
which  fringe  its  margin,  and  the 
arborescent  growth  plays  an  even 
more  important  part  than  that  of 
herbaceous  character,  for  well  -  placed  and 
suitable  trees  and  shrubs  break  up  the 
margin  and  offer  a  succession  of  fresh  views, 
instead  of  allowing  the  eye  to  take  in  the  whole 
of  the  water  at  once.  While,  however,  it  is 
highly  essential  that  tree  and  shrub  life  should 
be  found  in  the  vicinity  of  a  lake,  it  ought  not 
to  be  overdone,  and  the  various  plants  used 
should  be  so  arranged  that  good  views  can  be 
obtained  of  ample  sheets  of  water,  and  also  that 
each  tree  or  group  of  trees  opens  out  a  fresh 
vista. 

Although  most  kinds  of  trees  will  thrive  on 
the  banks  of  lakes  where  the  ground  is  not 
marshy,  some  do  not  associate  well  with  water. 
Heavy-looking  trees,  as  a  rule,  are  not  desirable, 
especially  if  planted  in  quantity,  as  they  pro- 
duce too  sombre  an  effect.  Those  of  a  light  and 
graceful  outline  have  greater  attractions,  while 
some  of  those  of  a  fastigiate  or  columnar  habit 
may  be  introduced  successfully.  Trees  of  free, 
pendulous  habit  are  popular  for  the  work  and 
have  much  to  commend  them  ;  but  weeping  trees 
of  more  or  less  formal  outline,  such  as  some  of 
the  Ashes,  grown  in  umbrella  fashion  are  not 
appropriate.  The  reflection  of  suitable  trees  in 
the  water  is  part  of  their  value,  weeping  and 
fastigiate  trees  being  very  effective,  while  the 
coloured  bark  of  various  subjects  makes  them 
very  desirable. 

Should  the  margins  be  of  a  marshy  nature,  the 
various  Willows,  Alders  and  Poplars  will  be 
quite  at  home.  The  most  popular  Willow  of  all 
is  Salix  babylonioa  (the  common  Weening 
Willow).  Its  light  and  graceful  branches  hang 
in  streamers  many  feet  in  length,  and  are  clothed 
with  the  daintiest  of  green  leaves.  An  uncommon 
variety  of  equal  merit  regarding  habit  and 
foliage  possesses  the  advantage  of  having  bright 
golden  bark.  It  is  known  as  S.  b.  ramulis 
aureis.  Another  good  variety  of  the  Babylonian 
Willow  is  S.  b.  Salamoni,  while  the  pendulous 
variety  of  S.  purpurea  is  of  particularly  elegant 
appearance.  S.  elegantissima  is  also  a  pendulous 
Willow,  while  S.  fragilis  and  its  bright-barked 
variety  basfordiana  may  also  be  planted.  S. 
alba  forms  an  ornamental  tree,  while  those 
people  who  desire  to  combine  ornament  with 
profit  would  do  well  to  plant  those  forms  which 
are  recommended  for  the  manufacture  of  cricket 
bats.     The  forms  of  S.   alba  vitellina,  with  red 


and  yellow  bark,  make  delightful  pictures,  the 
colour  being  most  brilliant  when  they  are  cut 
over  annually.  A  variety  with  red  stems  known 
as  britzensis  is  also  ornamental. 

The  various  Alders  are  useful  subjects,  the 
golden-leaved  form  of  Alnus  glutinosa  being 
effective,  while  the  cut-leaved  varieties  of  the 
same  species,  known  respectively  as  imperialis, 
inoisa  and  laciniata,  are  pretty.  A.  incana  bears 
fine  foliage  and  large  fruits,  while  the  variety 
ramulis  coeoineis  is  conspicuous  by  reason  of  its 
red  stems.  A  pretty  .Japanese  species  is  known 
as  A.  firmi.  It  is  uncommon  and  worth  planting 
extensively  for  ornamental  work. 

The  various  Poplars  may  also  be  used.  The 
fastigiate  varieties,  such  as  the  common  Lom- 
bardy  Poplar  and  Populus  alba  pyramidalis  are 
useful  to  form  groups  in  the  vicinity  of  water, 
where  they  stand  straight  and  sentinel-like  among 
other  trees  and  produce  a  similir  reflection  in 
the  water.  The  common  and  American  Aspen 
each  give  us  pendulous  varieties.  They  form 
ornamental  trees  and  are  very  curious  in  spring 
when  covered  with  their  long,  pendulous  catkins. 
Populus  alba  and  its  variety  nivea  and  P.  canes- 
eens  are  remarkable  for  their  silvery  leaves, 
while  P.  deltoidea  aurea  has  golden  foliage. 
The  Pteroearyas  may  be  planted  in  damp 
ground,  where  they  will  grow  rapidly  and  form 
fine  foliage.  The  deciduous  Cypress  (Taxodium 
distichum)  is  of  stiff,  fastigiate  habit  while 
young,  and  is  effective  either  during  summer 
while  the  leaves  are  green,  or  throughout  autumn 
when  the  foliage  is  a  rich  brown.  For  the  banks 
of  lakes  or  streams,  where  the  stems  will  not  be 
continually  wet,  but  where  roots  can  get  to  the 
water,  lots  of  trees  will  thrive,  and  such  things 
as  red  and  white  Thorns,  double  -  flowered 
Cherries,  Pyrus  floribunda,  P.  spectabilis,  Catalpa 
bignonioides  and  its  golden  variety  and  the 
various  Robinias  may  be  planted.  Should  high 
ground  occur  in  the  vicinity  of  water,  a  well- 
placed  group  of  Silver  Birches  may  be  introduced 
with  success,  the  reflection  of  the  white  trunks 
in  the  water  being  very  pretty. 

Shrubs  of  various  kinds  may  be  planted  about 
the  margins  of  lakes  or  streams,  such  as  Diervillas 
— better  known,  perhaps,  as  Weigelas — double- 
flowered  Gorse,  rambling  Roses,  double-flowered 
Blackberries,  golden-leaved  Elders,  the  silver- 
leaved  form  of  Salix  repens,  Berberis  stenophylla. 
Rhododendron  ponticum,  Tamarix  in  variety — 
particularly  T.  ohinensis,  which  is  of  very 
graceful  outline,  and  T.  pentandra,  which  is 
remarkable  for  its  profusion  of  pretty  rose- 
coloured  flowers  in  summer — Spiraea  Aitehisonii 
and  hosts  of  other  plants.  Although  the  selec- 
tion is  somewhat  limited  where  the  ground  is 
naturally  wet,  there  is   practically  no  limit  of 


174 


IHE     GAKDEN. 


(April  10,  1909. 


material  for  those  situations  where  the  plants  can 
be  placed  well  out  of  the  water  but  so  that  the  roots 
can  grow  through  the  bank  and  into  the  water.  For 
sheltered  positions  Bamboos  may  be  introduced, 
the  graceful,  wand-like  branches  being  charming 
when  at  their  best.  They  must  not,  however,  be 
planted  indiscriminately.  W.  Dallimore. 


PRIZES 


FOR    READERS. 
APRIL 


THE  BEST  PERENNIALS  AND  BIEN- 
NIALS FOR  THE  GARDEN  AND 
HOW  TO  RAISE  THEM  FROM  SEED. 


A  First  PrUe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS. 

A   Second  Ptize  of  TVO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prue  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  Prize  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on  the  above 
subject. 

Attention  should  be  given  to  the  time  of  sowing, 
best  soil  to  use  and  other  cultural  details. 

The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  The  Gabdhn,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Friday,  April  30.  Both  amateur  and  pro- 
fessional gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Gabdbn  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSS.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
decision  is  final 


of  this  branch  of  nurseryman's  art,  and  this  can 
be  seen  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  open  spaces 
surrounding  the  very  artistic  buildings.  The 
arrangements  for  the  season  are  not  complete, 
but  it  is  probable  that  there  will  be  some 
flower  shows  on  an  extensive  scale,  which  will 
prove  a  great  attraction  to  the  numerous  visitors 
who  will  again  flock  to  the  White  City. 

Bpitish  Gapdeneps'  Asaoeiation. 

At  the  last  meeting  of  this  association,  Mr.  E.  F. 
Hawes  in  the  chair,  forty-one  new  members  were 
elected,  bringing  the  total  up  to  1,473.  Mr. 
Charles  Foster  was  congratulated  on  his  new 
appointment  to  Lord  Northoliffe.  It  was 
decided  that  the  annual  general  meeting  of  the 
association  should  be  held  at  the  Essex  Hall, 
Essex  Street,  Strand,  W.C,  on  Wednesday, 
May  26,  at  7  p.m.,  the  second  day  of  the  Temple 
Show. — John  Weatheks,  Secretary. 

"  Rock,  wall  and  water  gardens." 
This  is  the  title  of  a  splendidly  illustrated 
booklet  just  issued  by  Messrs.  R.  Wallace  and  Co., 
Kilnfield  Gardens,  Colchester.  The  selection  of 
sites,  formation  of  the  gardens  and  the  best 
plants  to  utilise  for  furnishing  them  are  all  dealt 
with  in  a  most  lucid  manner,  numerous  illustra 
tions  of  portions  of  beautiful  rock  and  other 
gardens  being  given.  Such  information  coming 
from  so  excellent  a  source  cannot  fail  to  be  of 
the  greatest  assistance  to  all  who  are  con- 
templating the  formation  of,  or  who  possess, 
such  gardens. 


CORRESPONDENCE 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  jor  the   opinion) 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 


NOTES  OF   THE  WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*»•  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

April  15. — Kingsbridge  Daffodil  and  Spring 
Flower  Show. 

April  20. — Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers,  ko.  National  Auricula  and 
Primula  Society's  Show,  1 — 6.  Lecture,  3  p.m., 
by  Mr.  Eric  Drabble,  D.Sc. ,  on  "Pansies." 
Admission  2s.  6d.  Royal  Horticultural  Hall, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster.  Devon  Daffodil 
Society's  Show  (two  days). 

April  22.— Midland  Daffodil  Society's  Exhibi- 
tion (two  days). 

National    Sweet    Pea    Society.— 

This  vigorous  society  has  just  published  an 
official  catalogue  of  Sweet  Pea  names  which 
should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  who  grow  or  are  in 
any  way  interested  in  this  beautiful  flower.  The 
names  are  arranged  alphabetically,  those  of  the 
most  up-to-date  varieties  being  printed  in  heavy 
type  and  synonyms  in  italics.  Copies  can  be 
obtained,  post  free  7d.  each,  from  the  hon. 
secretary,  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis,  Adelaide  Road, 
Brentford,  Middlesex. 

Hoptlcultupc  at  the  W^hlte  City.— 
Mr.  J.  Jaques  has  again  been  appointed  to  take 
charge  of  the  horticultural  department  of  the 
Great  White  City,  where  he  has  now  com- 
menced his  duties.  This  year  it  is  intended  to 
give  fuller  scope  to  this  branch.  The  spacious 
grounds  afford  the  fullest  facilities  for  eifeotive 
bedding  displays,  and  every  arrangement  is 
being  made  to  allot  good  positions  to  the 
nurserymen  who  are  desirous  of  taking  plots.  It 
is  hoped  to  include  some  of  the  finest  specimens 


Aptlficlal  manupcs.  —  Will  "K," 
whose  article  on  artificial  manures  appeared  in 
The  Garden  of  March  27th,  state  whether 
Wakeley's  Hop  Manure,  which  he  recommends, 
is  sold  under  a  guaranteed  analysis,  as  required 
under  the  Fertilisers  and  Feeding  Stuff's  Act,  and 
if  so,  what  percentages  of  nitrogen,  potash  and 
phosphates  it  contains  as  compared  with  a  fair 
sample  of  spent  Hops  which  has  not  been 
chemically  treated  ?  Allowing  for  the  humus 
spent  Hops  contain,  its  value  consists  in  the  per- 
centages of  the  above  ingredients  only.  Usually 
spent  Hops  can  be  obtained  from  any  brewery  for 
a  few  shillings  per  ton,  and  seeing  that  the 
moisture  amounts  to  from  60  to  85  per  cent,  they 
are  not  worth  more. — A  User  of  Spent  Hops. 

The  Peppetual  -  flowering 
Carnation  Society.  —  I  fully  endorse 

every  word  that  Mr.  Liurence  Cook  says  re 
"  A.  D.'s  "  disparaging  remarks  about  the  above 
society  on  page  99.  "A.  D."  writes  :  "Really, 
so  far  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  seems, 
by  the  freedom  with  which  it  places  space  at  the 
disposal  of  growers,  not  merely  twice  a  year,  but 
twenty-seven  times,  to  do  all  that  is  needed  to 
encourage  Carnation  growing  of  the  section 
referred  to."  That  is  where  "A.  D. "  is  de- 
cidedly wrong.  No  doubt  if  he  attended  the 
show  on  March  24  he  must  have  had  a  rude 
awakening  when  he  saw  the  great  attendance 
that  came  to  see  the  most  popular  flower  of  the 
present  time.  The  above  society  is  doing  grand 
work  in  encouraging  new  varieties,  granting  an 
award  of  merit  to  those  only  which  have  a  perfect 
stem,  calyx  and  flower,  also  the  scent — which 
lately  had  become  a  small  consideration,  but 
which  ought  to  be  first — and  advice  to  amateurs 
re  the  cultivation  of  the  Carnation  is  given  by 
nearly  all  the  expert  growers  in  the  south  of 
England  and  the  Channel  Islands.  All  varieties 
that  are  not  worth  growing,  and  also  the  too-much- 
alike  varieties,  are  also  stuck  out.  Does  "  A.  D." 
think  that  all  the  encouragement  has  been  given 
to  this  lovely  flower  that  it  deserves  ?  What  do 
they  offer  for  it  at  the  York  Gala  or  at 
Shrewsbury  ?  It  is  for  these  reasons  that  the 
Perpetual  -  flowering  Carnation  Society  wag 
formed  to  look  after  its  own  interest  and  to  help 


the  flower  in  every  way  it  deserved,  and  I  am 
very  glad  that  the  horticultural  Press  is  not  of 
the  same  opinion  as  "  A.  D."  They  one  and  all, 
without  exception,  have  helped  this  society  to 
get  stronger  and  have  given  it  every  encourage- 
ment.— A.  T.  Paskett,  Burrswood,  Oroom- 
bridcie. 

FOPCed    Daffodils. — I  am    greatly  inte- 
rested by  the  remarks  of  the  Rev.  Joseph  Jacob 
on  page   152   in  reference  to  the  above  subject. 
On   March   9,  the   Narcissus   committee   of   the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  for  the  first  time,  1 
believe,  gave  awards   of   commendation  to  two 
very  diverse  forms  of  Narcissi  for  their  value  as 
forcing  varieties,  without  in  the  least  indicating 
the  direction  of  the  merit  of  the   variety.     In 
giving  awards   to  such   things   as  Dahlias  and 
Chrysanthemums,   the  floral   committee  of  the 
same  society  indicates  to  some  extent  the  merit 
of  any  certificated  novelty  by  the  use  of  such 
terms  as  decorative,  show,  fancy,  Pasony-flowered, 
Cactus,  etc.,  in  the  case  of  the  former,  and  by 
decorative,  market,   show,    early  flowering   and 
the    like   in    the    case   of   the   latter ;   hence   a 
person  a  hundred  miles  away  gets  some  idea  of 
the  value  and,  at  the  same  time,  the  section  to 
which  the  variety  belongs.      But  it  is  a  little 
vague  and  not  a  little  puzzling  to  those  who  do 
not  see  certificated   varieties  of  Narcissi  to  be 
simply  informed  that  a  certain  variety  received 
a  certificate  of  commendation  as  a  forcing  variety, 
and  this  without  the  least  qualification.      The 
award   is     all    the    more    puzzling    when    one 
remembers    that   on  the    occasion    in    question 
there  were  probably  dozens  of  varieties  shown, 
all  of  which  had  been  forced  into  flower.     Some 
of  these    were  notable   sorts,    such  as  Duke  of 
Bedford,    Victoria,   Emperor,   Empress,   White 
Lady,  and  many  others  of  the  self  yellow  class  ; 
but  possibly  none   of   these   were    entered   for 
certificate  in  any  form.      In  view  of  the  fact, 
however,    that  so    many   forced  varieties  were 
staged  on  the  date  named,   and  the  additional 
fact  that  for  two  months  prior  to  March  9  the 
forced  Daffodil  had  been  a  prominent  feature  in 
the  chief   markets  and  in   the  shops,  that  date 
appears  to  constitute  no  adequate  test  or  guide 
whereby  the  forcing  value  of  any  variety  might 
be  determined.     Indeed,  it  is  not  going  too  far — 
if  one  excludes  the  Lent   Lily  and  the  May- 
flowering  Poeticus,  or  those  recent  novelties  that 
are  more  decidedly  under  its  influence  than  some 
others — to  say  that  by  far  the  great  majority  of 
varieties  existing  to-day  could  be  produced  in 
excellent  condition  in  the  early  days  of  March, 
an!  in  a  more  congenial  season  than  the  present 
at  a  much  earlier  date.      It  is  in  these  circum- 
stances,    I    think,    that    the    present    method 
of  awarding  the  certificate  possesses  but  little 
value.     It  would  also,  I  venture  to  suggest,  add 
appreciably  to  the  educational  side  of  the  sub- 
ject were  such  novelties  required  to  be  shown  as 
pot-grown  examples  as  well  as  in  the  cut  state  ; 
and  by  stating  whether  the  variety  was  a  show 
or  market  sort — for  the  forcing  award  would,  of 
course,    be    outside  the    garden    merit  of    the 
variety — much     useful     information    would    be 
imparted.     That  there  is  not  merely  merit,  but 
great    commercial    value,    in    the    Daffodil    of 
right    colour-tone    that     will     force     early     is 
well   known    to    some,    but  it  is  an    attribute 
the  merit  of  which  should  be  revealed  at  a  much 
earlier  date  than  the  opening  days  of  the  second 
week    of    March.       By     forcing    it  should    be 
understood    that     the     variety    loses    nothing 
appreciably  of  its  colour,  its  serviceable  stature 
or    its   chief   characteristics. — E.    H.    Jenkins, 
Hampton  Hill. 

A  floplferous  Crocus.— Among  some 
Crocus  bulbs  (purchased  from  Messrs.  Carter  and 
Co. )  which  I  put  in  my  garden  last  autumn,  and 
which  are  all  blooming  very  profusely,  is  one 
now  bearing  fifteen  blooms.  I  should  be  much 
interested  to  know  whether  this  number  of 
blooms  from  one  bulb  is  exceptional  ?  As  far 
as  my  own  experience  in  a  suburban  garden  goes 


April  10,  1908.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


176 


it  is  certainly  out  of  the  oommon.  Perhaps  you 
would  kindly  publish  this  letter,  as  I  should  be 
very  interested  to  know  if  any  other  of  your 
readers  have  obtained  equal  or  better  results.  — 
E.  0.  Spencer,  Streatham. 

Forced  bulba  and  eelworms.— I  was 
much  interested  in  the  article  on  the  above  in  your 
issue  of  the  20th  ult.,page  139.  Last  autumn, 
having  rather  a  large  batch  of  Malmaiaon  Car- 
nations, I  was  somewhat  alarmed  by  several  of 
them  showing  signs  of  sickness  and  then,  all  of  a 
sudden,  total  collapse.  I  found  upon  close 
examination  that  this  was  caused  by  eelworms, 
they  having  been  in  the  loam  used  in  the  potting 
and  which  was  cut  from  a  deer  park  last  May. 
What  was  to  be  done  ?  I  could  not  water  them 
with  any  special  preparation,  as  at  that  season 
of  the  year  too  much  of  even  clear  water  is  most 
harmful.  I  decided  to  try  Vaporite.  I  had 
every  one  turned  out  of  their  pots  and  a  good 
dusting  of  the  powder  given  over  the  drainage. 
After  a  few  days,  not  feeling  quite  satisfied,  I 
had  three  or  four  holes  bored  with  a  piece  of 
wire  about  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil  and  about 
2  inches  from  the  stem  of  the  plant,  and  these 
holes  were  filled  with  Vaporite.  The  size  of 
the  pots  was  9  inches,  and  I  am  pleased  to  say 
that  up  to  the  24th  ult.  I  have  not  lost  any  more 
plants.  Now  we  come  to  what,  I  think,  is  rather 
strange.  We  used  loam  from  the  same  stack  for 
our  bulbs,  &c.  ;  all  have  done  well,  Freesias 
especially,  and  no  ill-effects  whatever  were 
noticed.  However,  I  shall  not  use  loam  cut 
from  the  same  place  again ;  but  if  I  had  any 
suspicion  of  eelworm  in  the  soil  I  should  certainly 
use  Vaporite,  and  that  not  sparingly,  mixing  it 
well  with  the  soil  some  time  before  potting. — 
A.  J.  Hawkes,  Ball  Place  Gardeiis,  Kent. 

Should  any  of  your  correspondents  discover 

any  preventive  against  the  attack  of  these  pests,  I 
hope  they  will  communicate  it  to  your  paper.  The 
cause  of  failure  with  forced  Narcissi,  Tulips  and 
Hyacinths  here  this  winter  for  the  first  time  was 
a  mystery  to  me  until  I  read  the  letter  of  Mr. 
J.  D.  Pearson  in  your  issue  of  the  20th  ult.  On 
examining  the  roots  of  the  bulbs  in  question  I 
have  just  discovered  numbers  of  these  small 
white  worms.  The  bulbs  had  been  potted  in 
good  loam. — G.  H.  N.,  Baiibury. 

Seeing  in  The  Gabdbn  of  the  20th  ult. 

Mr.  J.  1).  Pearson's  warning  to  those  who  may 
have  to  contend  with  the  ravages  of  eelworms, 
it  may  be  of  use  to  some  of  your  readers  to  know 
how  I  manage  to  kill  them  and  thus  obtain  good 
results  from  forced  bulbs.  I  discovered  them 
through  the  complete  failure  of  some  pot  Hya- 
cinths in  March,  1908.  They  had,  as  in  Mr. 
Pearson's  case,  eaten  the  white  healthy  roots, 
leaving  only  the  skin.  Since  then  all  the  soil  for 
potting  purposes  must  go  through  the  process 
given  here,  as  it  is  simply  teeming  with  eelworms 
and  wireworms.  The  latter  Vaporite  seems  to 
exterminate,  but  not  so  with  the  eelworms. 
After  preparing  the  soil  (broken  as  fine  as 
possible  and  plenty  of  coarse  sand)  I  procure 
four  bricks,  two  of  which  are  placed  in  the 
stokehole  fire  to  get  red-hot ;  then  put  a  barrow- 
load  of  soil  on  the  potting-shed  floor  and  place 
the  red-hot  bricks  therein.  At  intervals  of 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  I  mix  the  soil  well 
together,  and  when  the  bricks  are  cooled  down 
replace  with  the  other  two,  which  meanwhile 
should  have  been  put  to  get  red-hot.  The  four 
bricks  will  be  quite  enough  to  make  the  barrow- 
load  of  soil  steaming  hot  if  attention  be  given 
to  turning  it.  This  season  there  has  not 
been  a  single  bulb  go  wrong  and  no  trace  of 
eelworms  in  the  pots  with  the  soil  thus  treated. 
The  bulbs  were  supplied  by  Messrs.  Pearson.  — 
C.  J.,  Filey. 

I  was  much  interested  in  Mr.  J.  Duncan 

Pearson's  article  in  your  issue  of  the  20th  ult. 
(page  139)  re  "Forced  Bulbs  and  Eelworms." 
I  have  been  pestered  with  them  here  in  nearly 
all  my  pot  plants,  especially  Amaryllis  bulbs, 
the  base  of  which  were  literally  covered  with 
eelworms.     I  procured  some  Apterite,  and  then 


made  holes  in  a  slanting  direction  in  each  pot, 
into  which  I  dropped  a  pinch  of  this  preparation 
and  then  filled  the  holes  in  again  with  soil  with 
good  results.  I  have  seen  wireworms  and  earth- 
worms come  to  the  top  of  the  soil  a  few  minutes 
after  the  application.  I  find  it  a  good  plan  to 
mix  Apterite  in  the  soil  a  few  days  before  it  is 
wanted  for  potting,  as  by  this  method  I  have 
not  been  troubled  with  eelworms  or  any  other 
soil  pests  for  some  time.  I  have  only  means  of 
trying  it  on  a  small  scale,  and  give  this  informa- 
tion for  what  is  is  worth.  I  hope  Mr.  J.  Duncan 
Pearson  will  give  Apterite  a  trial,  and  if  suc- 
cessful send  an  account  of  the  result  to  your 
valuable  paper  for  the  benefit  of  others  readers. 
— W.  Hall,  The   Yarrows,  Cajriberley. 

The  nevf  water  garden  at  Kew.— 
To  replace  the  old,  inadequate  structure  at  the 
north  end  of  the  herbaceous  ground  at  Kew,  a 
new  water  garden  has  been  constructed  during 
the  past  winter.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  old 
medicinal  ground  to  the  north  of  museum  No.  2, 
and  consists  in  all  of  seven  separate  tanks.  The 
centre  tank  and  four  corner  tanks  will  be  used 
for  Nymphjeas  and  other  aquatic  plants,  while 
the  two  side  ones  will  be  used  for  bog  plants. 
The  centre  tank  has  been  fitted  with  hot-water 
pipes,  which  will  enable  some  of  the  less  hardy 


THE   KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


THE   VEGETABLE   MARROW. 
Its  Importance  in  a  Time  of  Scarcity. 

THERE  is  every  probability  of  a  great 
scarcity  of  vegetables,  owing  to  the 
severe  weather  which  we  have  ex- 
perienced. During  the  next  two 
or  three  months  it  behoves  every 
gardener  to  do  his  utmost  to  make 
the  best  provision  possible.  I  have  for  many 
years  advocated  the  forwarding  of  Vegetable 
Marrows  under  glass,  either  by  growing  them 
in  large  pots,  or  planting  them  out  and  trailing 
them  up  near  the  glass  on  any  vacant  trellises 
there  may  be  in  the  fruit  or  other  houses,  or 
planting  them  out  on  mild  hot-beds  under 
portable  frames.  The  latter  plan  is,  unques- 
tionably, to  be  strongly  recommended,  as  not 
only  may  excellent  crops  be  taken  early  from 
the  plants  under  glass,  but  immediately  it  is 
safe  to  do  so  by  removing  the  frames,  the  plants 
will  be  in  full  bearing,  which  is  a  great  gain 
over  those  planted  in  the  ordinary  way ;  but 
the  same  plants  will  continue  to  bear  profusely 
as  long  as  open  weather  prevails  in  the  autumn. 


THE   NEW   WATER  LILY   GARDEN   AT  KEW. 


aquatics  to  be  grown  out  of  doors.  As  may  be 
seen  in  the  illustration,  the  centre  tank  is  on  a 
lower  level  than  the  four  corner  ones,  and  is 
approached  by  six  sets  of  steps  of  four  each. 
The  dimensions  of  the  water  garden  are  :  Over 
all,  104  feet  by  62  feet ;  large  tank,  71  feet  by 
28  feet  (inside  measurement)  ;  corner  tanks, 
24  feet  by  24  feet  (inside  measurement) ;  side 
tanks,  36  feet  by  7  feet  (inside  measurement). 
The  Oaoberpy  (Nuttallia  cerasl- 

tormis). — What  a  charming  early-flowering 
shrub  this  is  !  and  it  is  indeed  surprising,  con- 
sidering how  amenable  it  is  to  almost  any  soil 
and  climate,  that  it  is  not  more  grown.  It  is 
one  of  the  earliest  plants  to  show  signs  of  new 
life,  as  during  midwinter  it  begins  to  push  forth 
its  pale  green  buds,  and  for  some  weeks  it 
has  the  appearance  of  just  breaking  into 
flower,  and  when  expanded,  which  it 
generally  does  here  in  March,  it  lasts  for  a 
eonsiderable  time.  Being  a  North  American 
plant,  it  seems  perfectly  proof  against  the 
severest  weather  we  are  likely  to  experience.  It 
much  resembles  a  small  white  Ribes  when  in  full 
bloom.  It  produces  fruit  of  a  dark  red  colour 
about  the  size  of  a  Cherry,  but  being  dicecious  it 
is  necessary,  of  course,  to  grow  both  sexes  to 
ensure  this.  — Edwin  Beckett. 


Early  Marrows  are  generally  considered  a  great 
delicacy  and  always  realise  good  prices  in  the 
market,  and  with  the  many  improved  varieties  of 
recent  introduction  which  lend  themselves 
admirably  to  this  kind  of  treatment,  very  little 
difficulty,  when  cultivated  under  proper  condi- 
tions, will  be  experienced. 

Raising  the  Plants. — Seeds  should  be  sown 
singly  in  3-ineh  pots  during  the  present  month, 
using  a  fairly  light  soil  in  a  moderately  dry 
condition.  These  should  be  raised  in  a  gentle 
heat  and  not  overwatered  till  the  young  growth 
appears,  when  they  should  be  placed  on  shelves 
near  the  glass.  Immediately  the  secand  leaf 
shows  signs  of  development,  the  plants  should 
be  potted  into  6-inch  pots,  neatly  staking 
them  at  the  same  time.  Grow  on  near  the 
glass  in  a  temperature  of  about  5o°  Fahr. ,  and 
after  the  pots  have  become  well  filled  with 
roots  these  may  be  placed  in  their  permanent 
positions,  either  in  houses  or  on  the  prepared 
beds. 

Formation  oj  the  Hot-beds. — These  should 
consist  of  three  parts  good  leaves  and  one  part 
long  stable  litter.  The  beds  should  be  made 
about  2  feet  wider  all  round  than  the  frames 
and  firmly  put  together,  which  will  allow  for 
adding  fresh  linings  when  required.     The  heat 


176 


THE    GAIiDEN. 


[April  10,  190d. 


ahould  nut  be  too  great  when  adding  the  uoil ; 
just  suffioiont  to  create  a  gentle  warmth  to  give 
the  plants  a  good  start.  The  soil  should  con- 
sist of  two  parts  good  fibrous  loam,  one  of  well- 
decayed  leaf-soil  and  one  also  of  old  hot-bed  or 
Mushroom-bed  manure,  to  which  should  be 
added  a  little  finely  broken  charcoal  or  burnt 
garden  refuse.  This  should  be  placed  in  a  ridge, 
thus  leaving  the  back  and  front  inside  the 
frame  uncovered  with  soil,  so  that  any  un- 
necessary heat  may  escape  without  doing 
damage  to  the  compost.  The  plants  should 
be  put  out  during  the  warmest  part  of  the  day, 
taking  care  to  harden  them  off  in  a  cool  house 
before  doing  ao. 

Ordinary-sized  frames  will  generally  accommo- 
date two  plants  to  a  light.  These  should  be 
well  pegged  down  and  damped  over  with 
tepid  water.  After  about  throe  days  these 
should  bo  well  watered  in,  using  slightly 
warmer  water  than  the  temperature  in  which 
the  plants  are  growing.  The  plants  will  soon 
grow  away  freely,  but  undue  forcing  should  be 
strictly  guarded  against.  Stopping,  thinning 
and  pegging  down  the  growths  must  be  attended 
to  as  often  as  it  is  necessary,  and  the  plants 
should  be  syringed  daily,  on  tine  occasions  early 
in  the  afternoon,  when  the  lights  should  be 
olosed.  After  about  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks 
the  beds  should  be  finally  made  up,  using  the 
same  kind  of  soil. 

Airing. — This  requires  to  be  done  carefully, 
and  one  must  use  his  own  judgment  as  to  how 
much  and  when  to  admit  it.  As  is  well  known, 
the  Vegetable  Marrow  is  one  of  our  most  tender 
plants,  and  cold,  cutting  winds,  essential  as  air 
is,  must  be  guarded  against.  Always  endeavour 
to  tilt  the  lights  in  the  opposite  direction  to 
which  cold  winds  are  blowing,  and  it  is  impor- 
tant that  ventilation,  even  if  only  a  very  little,  is 
given  early,  especially  on  bright  mornings, 
or  the  condensed  moisture  which  has  been 
deposited  during  the  night  on  the  foliage 
will  enable  the  sun  to  scorch  them.  It  will 
often  be  found  necessary  to  raise  the  frames 
so  that  the  foliage  does  not  come  in  contac-t 
with  the  glass.  The  lights  should  be  well 
covered  with  mats  or  other  suitable  material 
during  cold  nights  and  fresh  linings  of  fer- 
menting material  added  as  required.  To 
ensure  a  free  set  it  will  bo  necessary  to  fertilise 
the  fruit  when  in  flower  much  in  the  same  way 
as  Melons.  .\s  the  days  lengthen  and  the 
weather  becomes  more  favourable,  air  can  bo 
given  muoh  more  freely,  and  during  very  mild 
days  it  will  be  well  to  remove  the  lights  entirely, 
if  only  for  a  short  time,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
air  be  left  on  during  the  night  when  frost  is  not 
likely  to  occur.  By  the  end  of  May  the  frames 
may  be  removed  and  utilised  for  otlier  purposes, 
at  the  samu  time  giving  the  plants  a  thorough 
mulching  of  a  similar  mixture  as  that  advised  for 
planting. 

Regulate,  thin  and  peg  out  the  growths. 
Abundance  of  water  should  be  given  when  in 
full  bearing  and  the  foliage  damped  over 
every  afternoon.  It  will  then  be  found  that 
these  plants  will  be  yielding  abundantly  when 
the  mnjority  of  people  are  putting  out  theirs. 
Fortunately,  the  Vegetable  Marrow  is  not  liable 
to  bo  seriously  injured  by  insect  pests  or  diseases, 
and  it  njay  be  grown  successfully  in  any  sunny, 
sheltered  position.  These  early  crops  of  young 
Marrows  are  always  exceedingly  welcome  and 
fully  repay  the  trouble  entailed  in  producing 
them. 

Varie.tieH. — I  have  grown  these  e.\tensively 
with  a  view  to  testing  the  majority  of  varieties 
now  in  commerce,  and  for  this  way  of  treatment 
I  have  found  the  best  to  be  The  Sutton,  l*eu-y- 
byd  and  Moore's  Cream  (eaoh  of  the  above  white- 
skinned  varieties)  ;  while  Perfection,  Prince 
Albert  and  Tender  and  True  (the  latter  a 
bush  variety)  are  excellent  green-skinned  sorts. 
The  Improved  Custard  does  remarkably  well 
under  gUss,  and  the  quality  is  generally  muoh 
liked.  E.  Bkokett. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

WHEN  TO  PLANT  FRUIT  TREES. 

1WAS  pleased  to  see  the  very  sensible 
articles  upon  this  subject  on  page  150  by 
Messrs.  Lawrence  and  "  A.  D."  There  is 
such  a  thing  as  riding  a  hobby  to  death, 
and  for  years  nearly  every  writer  has  said 
that  "  November  is  the  only  safe  month  to 
plant "  until  the  general  public  has  come  to 
accept  this  as  a  fact,  whereas  it  is  far  from  the 
truth.  To  nurserymen  this  writing  has  caused 
endless  trouble,  and  it  is  not  at  all  uncommon  to 
receive  letters  from  customers  by  the  middle  of 
November  asking  if  it  is  not  too  late  in  the 
season  to  plant,  when  it  might  almost  as 
frequently  be  truthfully  said  to  be  full  early. 
There  are  many  sides  to  most  questions,  and 
some  of  these  are  apt  to  be  overlooked  in 
making  those  sweeping  assertions.  As  "A.  D." 
says,  how  about  a  dry  autumn  when  the  ground 
is  so  hard  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  lift 
trees  without  leaving  a  large  proportion  of  their 
roots  behind  ?  and  then  again,  we  have  seasons 
such  as  last  year  when  trees  are  growing 
into  November.  Doubtless  this  is  a  matter  of 
small  moment  when  trees  are  lifted  from  one 
part  of  a  garden  and  replanted  in  another  ;  the 
roots  are  so  short  a  time  out  of  the  ground  that 
they  have  no  time  to  become  dry,  and  if  the 
branches  are  shortened  so  as  to  remove  the 
growing  shoots  and  thus  prevent  a  large  amount 
of  evaporation,  the  operation  should  be  a  perfect 
success.  But  how  different  are  the  conditions 
when  an  order  is  placed  with  a  nurseryman,  and 
the  trees  have  to  travel  perhaps  100  miles  by 
rail  and  be  kept,  as  they  frequently  are,  for 
days  tn  roiUf.  With  every  care  the  small  fibres 
dry  out  and  many  of  them  perish,  so  that  the 
trees  have  to  make  fresh  fibres,  and  the  more 
active  the  trees  are  at  the  time  of  lifting  the 
greater  are  their  sufferings. 

My  contention  is  that  the  drying  of  the  roots 
is  one  of  the  main  drawbacks  in  planting,  and  it 
is  a  point  which  is  more  neglected  by  the  gene- 
rality of  planters  than  any  other.  Nurserymen 
are,  as  a  rule,  wide  awake  to  this  fact,  and  in 
every  well-managed  establishment  all  trees  are 
carefully  covered  with  mats  as  soon  as  lifted 
and  carted  to  the  packing-shed  and  packed  as 
speedily  as  possible  ;  but  I  have  seen  Laurels 
lifted  one  day  and  orders  sorted  out  from  them 
while  the  remainder  laid  exposed  on  the  surface 
of  the  soil  until  next  day.  Many  nurserymen 
make  a  point  of  advising  their  customers  to 
always  have  a  trench  dug  out  as  soon  as  the  trees 
arrive,  to  unpack  the  bundles  and  at  onoe  place 
the  roots  of  the  trees  in  the  soil  and  cover  them 
well  up  ;  they  can  then  be  drawn  out  and  planted 
as  required.  If  this  wore  done  we  should  hoar 
less  of  people  losing  their  trees  ;  but  how  com- 
paratively few  planters  follow  this  advice  !  If 
the  trees  arrive  in  good  weather,  they  unpack 
them  and  leave  them  lying  exposed  to  wind  and 
sun  for  hours  while  they  are  planting  I  have 
known  an  extreme  case  where  a  second  consign- 
ment was  sent  a  week  after  the  first,  and  the 
carter  found  some  of  the  first  lot  in  a  back- 
yard still  unplanted  and  unprotected  !  Again, 
if  the  trees  happen  to  arrive  during  bad  weather 
— frost,  snow  or  rain — how  many  people  put  the 
bundles  aside  in  some  outhouse  and  leave  them 
for  days  or  weeks  before  they  do  anything  witV 
them,  whereas  it  is  never  impossible,  with  a 
little  trouble,  to  get  out  a  trench  and  heel  them 
in  so  that  the  roots  would  be  safe  and  recupera- 
ting from  their  journey. 

Many  nurserymen  have  to  do  the  bulk  of  their 
transplanting  after  they  have  finished  executing 
their  customers"  orders,  and  I  have  frequently 
transplanted  fruit  trees  from  one  part  of  a 
nursery  to  another  as  late  as  the  middle  of 
April,  with  an  average  loss  of  one  tree  per 
thousand.  Last  season  wo  did  not  lose  one 
tree  in  two  acres  of  transplanted  pyramids ; 
but.  of  course,  there  is  the  great  point  to  be 


considered  that  the  trees  were  on  the  spot  and 
had  no  journey  to  undergo.  This  brings  me  to 
another  point,  which  is,  Why  will  not  those  who 
are  compelled  to  plant  late  from  circumstances 
over  which  they  have  no  control  have  their  trees 
sent  on  a  month  earlier  and  lay  them  in  until 
they  are  ready  to  plant ''.  If  they  would  do  this, 
the  trees  would  be  cheeked  and  kept  back  by  the 
lifting,  and  they  would  travel  at  a  time  when  the 
roots  would  have  less  to  contend  with  in  the  way 
of  drying  winds,  and  also  would  be  in  a  better 
condition  to  withstand  anything  of  this  kind  ; 
but  no,  many  people  seem  to  have  a  rooted 
objection  to  doing  this  and  prefer  to  leave  the 
trees  in  the  nursery  until  they  are  ready  to  plant 
them. 

Mr.  Spencer  Pickering,  whose  valuable  experi- 
ments at  Ridgmont  are  known  and  recognised  by 
all,  says  that  he  finds  little  difference  in  trees 
planted  from  November  1  to  April  1,  provided 
they  are  on  the  spot  and  the  land  is  fit  to 
plant,  but  that  he  should  perhaps  avoid  the 
middle  of  the  dead  season,  say,  January,  if 
possible  ;  yet  nurserymen  plant  even  then  if  the 
weather  be  open,  and  I  hare  never  seen  bad 
results  from  so  doing. 

One  more  remark  and  I  will  bring  these  already 
over-long  notes  to  an  end.  Most  of  us  are  agreed 
that  it  is  bad  practice  to  plant  when  the  land  is 
wet  and  sticky.  Two  years  ago  I  stopped  some 
men  planting  (Gooseberries  on  strong  land,  which 
they  were  treading  on  to  the  roots  in  lumps  like 
oold,  wet  plum-pudding,  with  cakes  of  mud  on 
their  boots  like  balling  snow,  and  told  them  that 
I  would  rather  pay  them  to  be  in  bed  than  to  be 
doing  work  under  such  conditions.  The  remainder 
of  the  work  was  finished  a  fortnight  later,  in  good 
time  and  with  the  soil  in  a  friable  condition ;  but 
these  trees  never  grew  so  well  or  made  such 
good  plants  as  those  did  which  were  planted 
under  such,  what  we  should  call,  unfavourable 
conditions.  Mr.  Pickering  has  had  the  best 
results  from  trees  rammed  over  the  roots  till  the 
soil  was  like  mud.  Truly  we  do  not  know  all 
there  is  to  learn  about  fruit  tree  planting  yet, 
and  do  not  lot  us  make  a  bogey  of  November 
planting. 

Lowdham.  A.  H.  Fbarson. 


HINTS    ON    VINE    CULTURE. 

(Continued    from    page     111:?.) 

STARTINd    YonNO    ViNKS. 

It  is  quite  natural  that  an  amateur  who  has 
recently  planted  young  Vines  will  be  very  anxious 
to  see  the  new  shoots  and  bunches  of  (irapes 
growing.  Patience  must  be  exercised,  as  it  is  a 
great  mistake  to  either  force  the  new  growth 
unduly  or  overburden  the  Vines  with  Urapes. 
It  is  like  working  a  young  horse  too  soon  ;  the 
strain  causes  a  breakdown  in  each  case,  and 
Vines  so  treated  require  several  years'  careful 
treatment  before  they  are  capable  of  bearing  a 
normal  crop.  If  the  cultivator  will  allow  the 
Vines  to  gain  all  the  strength  possible  during 
the  first  year,  not  cropping  them  at  all,  they  will 
bear  remarkably  well  afterwards — that  is,  they 
will  each  year  bring  to  perfection  a  normal 
crop  of  fruit. 

Fin-heal.  —  There  is  no  necessity  to  heat 
the  hot-water  pipes,  except  to  keep  out  late 
frosts  and  very  cold  winds  during  the  night-time. 
Allow  the  buds  to  break  slowly  and  naturally  ; 
then  the  young  shoots  will  be  strong  and  sturdy 
and  there  will  be  no  check  to  the  progress 
of  the  growth  as  far  as  the  flow  of  sap  is  con- 
cerned, because  it  will  rise  early  enough  to  give 
support  to  the  new  shoots  after  the  stored-up 
sap  has  been  exhausted.  In  instances  where  a 
forcing  temperature  has  been  maintained  very 
early  in  spring  (and  that  would  be,  of  course, 
soon  after  the  young  Vines  were  planted),  the 
buds  have  grown  quickly  and  the  shoots  soon 
attained  a  length  of  about  G  inches  ;  but  then 
something  seemed  to  go  wrong.  The  shoots  did 
not  continue  to  grow,  and  from  that  stage  onwards 


April  10,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


177 


the  Vines  were  unsatisfactory.  Of  course, 
what  was  wrong  was  that  the  fire-heat  had 
made  the  buda  active  prematurely  and  they  had 
grown  as  long  as  there  was  any  sap  in  the  canes 
to  support  them  ;  but  when  the  sap  was  all  used 
up  there  oould  be  no  further  growth,  and  if 
a  higher  temperature  had  been  maintained 
matters  would  have  become  worse.  The  root- 
action  was  not  forward  enough  to  replace  the 
exhausted  sap  in  the  canes.  So  we  see  how 
important  it  is  to  eKeroise  patience  in  the  first 
treatment  of  young  Vines,  and  so  allow  them  to 
break  into  growth  slowly  and  be  duly  supported 
by  fresh  sip  from  the  roots.  The  activity  of 
both  roots  and  buds  should  be  evenly  balanced  ; 
if  one  must  be  before  the  other  it  should  be  the 
roots. 

Aegist  the  Buds  to  Break. — ^Syringe  the  canes 
at  least  twice  every  day  until  the  buds  have 
become  active  and  the  young  shoots  are  about 
1  inch  long  ;  then  cease  syringing,  but  do  not 
forget  the  atmospheric  moisture  in  the  house 
The  syringing  softens  the  scales  over   the   buds 


straight  up  the  wires  under  the  roof-glass  and 
stopped  when  it  has  made  a  growth  about  7  feet 
long.  The  side  shoots  must  be  stopped  (the 
points  pinched  off)  when  they  are  about  2  feet 
long.  The  new  shoots,  including  the  leader, 
will  be  short-jointed  if  all  are  allowed  to  grow 
slowly.  When  the  shoots  are  about  20  inches 
long  they  may  be  brought  down  to  the  wires  and 
tied  there.  G. 

(To  be  continund.) 


COLOURED    PLATE, 

P.L'ATB      1371. 


PYRETHRUM    LANGPORT    SCARLET. 

HAPPILY  the  wintry  weather — or  at  least 
if   one   may   judge    from    the   conditions 
existing   at    the    time    of    writing — has 
passed,    and     now     we     welcome     the     spring. 
There  is  life  in    the  garden,   the  woodland   and 


ROSE   MMK.     MELANIK    800PBRT.     (RcrlfUMd:) 


and  so  helps  them  to  burst  through,  but  all 
must  be  dry  by  sunset  every  night.  If  the  days 
are  cold  and  sunless,  do  not  have  much  moisture 
in  the  house  ;  if  the  weather  be  sunny  and  the 
air  mild,  more  atmospheric  moisture  may  be 
maintained,  as  it  will  be  highly  beneficial  to  the 
Vines.  Sun-heat  strengthens  the  growth  of 
Vines  wonderfully. 

Training  the  Shoots. — The  young  shoots  are 
very  tender  and  they  must  not  be  tied  down  to 
the  wires  prematurely,  also  some  of  them  may 
get  broken  off.  Never  mind  if  they  do  grow 
upwards — it  is  natural  for  them  to  do  so  ;  but 
before  the  points  of  the  shoots  reach  the  glass 
tie  soft  pieces  of  matting  to  them  and  gently 
pull  them  down  a  few  inches,  making  the  other 
end  of  the  tying  material  secure  to  the  wires. 
The  main  rod,  or  cane,  must  be  trained  about 
16  inches  from  the  roof-glass.  There  ought  to 
be  one  or  two  side  shoots  to  each  Vine  besides 
the  leading  shoot.     The  latter  must  be  trained 


the  forest  ;  but  to  the  gardener  it  is  a  time  not  of 
mere  contemplation,  but  of  practical  work.  We 
can  plant  now,  and  the  coloured  plate  of  the 
beautiful  new  Pyrethrum  Langport  Scarlet  brings 
to  us  thoughts  of  a  beautiful  and  useful  race  of 
perennials.  We  well  remember  this  flower  of 
soorlet  colouring,  and  when  we  first  saw  it  the 
great  work  of  Messrs.  Kelway  and  Sons  of  Ltng- 
port  was  in  mind.  Here  is  a  Pyrethrum  that 
brings  colour  to  the  garden  and  brightness  to  the 
home  ;  it  is  a  flower  to  gather,  and  in  these  days 
there  seems  a  universal  idea  to  fill  the  house  with 
blossom.  We  are  glad  it  is  so.  The  Pyrethrum 
may  be  planted  now  with  every  prospect  of  an 
abundant  flowering  in  the  coming  summer.  It 
enjoys  a  good  soil,  water  in  a  dry  summer,  and 
little  else,  is  a  most  accommodating  flower,  and  a 
plant  that  should  grace  every  garden  worthy  of 
the  name.  If  the  plants  are  out  down  close 
immediately  the  first  flowers  have  faded  a  second 
crop  will  be  produced  in  autumn. 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 

ROSE    MME.   MELANIE  SOUPERT. 

TO  see  this  fine  Rose  in   its  full  beauty 
one    must    be   up    early  on    a    oool 
summer   morning   or   visit  the    Rose 
garden  late  in  tlie  evening,  for  it  is 
one   of   those  varieties   that  quickly 
succumb    to    the    rays   of    the    sun. 
But  when  caught  right  what  grandeur  of  form 
it    possesses  !      Just    that    splendid     globular 
Magnolia-like  type  so  precious  to  the  exhibitor. 

One  could  wish  there  were  just  a  few  more 
petals  to  give  the  flower  greater  staying  power. 
Were  it  not  for  its  vigour  one  would  imagine 
Mme.  Melanie  Soupert  originated  from  White 
Lady,  so  wonderfully  like  is  it  in  petal  and  form  ; 
but  I  should  say  M.  Pernet-Ducher  has  employed 
some  of  his  lovely  unnamed  seedlings  to  produce 
the  variety  under  notice.  Certainly  it  is  one  of  the 
best  introductions  of  that  very  successful  raiser. 
The  colour  is  so  delicotely  beautiful,  viz. ,  salmon 
yellow,  suffused  with  carmine. 

I  notice  some  writers  hint  that  Soleil  d'Or 
was  one  of  its  parents,  but  I  imagine  this  to  be 
without  foundation.  M.  Pernet-Ducher  hybri- 
dised Mme.  Melanie  Soupert  with  a  seedling  of 
Soleil  d'Or,  which  has  resulted  in  producing 
that  very  distinct  hybrid  known  as  Lyon  Rose  ; 
this  was  shown  growing  at  the  Franco-British 
pjxhibition  last  year. 

Where  possible  I  would  advocate  plonting 
this  Rose  in  a  bed  by  itself,  a  plan  that  should 
be  adopted  with  all  garden  Roses  of  like 
distinctness  ;  but  where  this  is  impracticable  the 
following  varieties  would  blend  well  with  it : 
Harry  Kirk,  Lady  Wenlock,  Mme.  Paul  Oliver, 
Prince  de  Bulgarie,  Mme.  Pernet-Ducher,  Mme. 
.(enny  Oillemot  and  Senateur  Belle,  with 
stan(lards  as  dot  plants  of  Gustave  Regis.  The 
illustration  is  from  a  photograph  taken  in  Messrs. 
Merrywoather's  nursery,  Southwell.  P. 


THE  SPRING  PLANTIN(!  OF  ROSIOS. 
The  bad  weather  experienced  during  March  has 
put  everything  behind,  and  Rose  planting  will 
suffer  along  with  other  subjects.  But  let  no  one 
imagine  it  is  yet  too  late  to  plant  Roses.  We 
planted  a  lot,  some  thousands,  as  late  as  the 
middle  of  April  last  year  and  nothing  oould  have 
succeeded  better.  One  element  towards  success 
is  to  have  the  land  ridged  or  trenched  in  advance ; 
then  as  soon  as  the  surface  soil  works  well  the 
plants  may  be  planted.  It  is  always  wise  to 
procure  a  stock  early  in  February  and  March, 
before  all  the  best  plants  are  sold,  and  heel  them 
in,  taking  care  to  well  cover  the  roots  and  make 
them  firm. 

Should  it  not  be  convenient  to  plant  until 
April,  the  plants  should  have  been  lifted  and 
heeled  in  afresh.  This  tends  to  check  root 
action  and  keeps  the  plants  in  a  nice  dormant 
state  for  transplanting  when  the  opportunity 
occurs.  I  believe  if  the  plants  were  moved  at 
frequent  intervals  one  might  defer  planting  with 
every  prospect  of  success  until  the  end  of  April. 
I  am,  of  course,  referring  to  bush  Hoses,  more 
especially  the  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas,  Polyanthas  and 
Chinas.  Hybrid  Perpetuals  do  not  do  very  well 
when  planted  so  late. 

Before  planting  we  cut  the  bushes  back  hard, 
even  to  two  or  three  eyes,  and  their  roots  should 
be  dipped  in  some  good  thick  mud  puddle.  Plant 
them  rather  deeply,  and  if  dry  weather  follows, 
apply  a  little  water  at  the  time  and  again  in 
about  a  fortnight.  A  great  point  to  remember  in 
the  cultivation  of  all  spring-planted  Roses  is  to 
hoe  the  soil  frequently,  and  especially  after  every 
rain  ;  but  prior  to  the  first  hoeing  it  is  advisable  tio 
make  them  firm  about  the  roots  by  pressing  the 
heel  on  each  side.  In  order  that  the  plants  may 
have  every  chance,  all  flower-buds  should  be 
picked  off  until  July  ;  after  this  they  may  be 
allowed  to  develop,  and  the  result  will  be  a 
grand  display  in  August  and  the  autumn.       P. 


178 


THE    GARDEN. 


[AvRiL  10,  1909. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

SOWING  SEEDS.— So  much  has  been 
said  and  written  about  the  advantage.s 
of  sowing  Sweet  Peas  in  cold  frames 
in  the  autumn  or  in  frames  or  green- 
houses in  the  spring,  that  amateurs 
are  coming  to  fear  that  they  will 
not  reap  satisfactory  results  unless  they  adopt 
one  of  these  systems  ;  or  if  they  are  unable  to  do 
that,  it  is  considered  imperative  that  seeds  shall 
be  sown  before  the  end  of  March.  Let  me  try 
to  clear  the  atmosphere  a  little  by  saying  that 
the  under-glass  method  of  grow- 
ing, whether  in  autumn  or  spring, 
is  more  particularly  valuable  to 
those  who  desire  flowers  expressly 
for  exhibition.  At  the  same  time, 
it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that 
practically  equal  results,  as  far  as 
quality  is  concerned,  accrue  upon 
sowing  out  of  doors  in  the  spring, 
and  as  the  principal  shows  take 
place  in  July,  March  is  usually 
the  most  reliable  month  for  sow- 
ing. For  later  shows,  the  seeds 
may  be  sown  in  April,  and  if  the 
preparatory  operations  have  been 
thoroughly  carried  out,  there  is 
no  reason  in  the  world  why  the 
plants  should  not  produce  grand 
blooms.  As  for  growing  for  garden 
decoration — and  it  is  good  to  know 
that  everyone  is  not  yet  smitten 
with  the  show  fever — then  April 
will  yield  as  good  returns  as 
March  as  a  time  for  sowing  the 
seeds.  The  open-air  cultivator  has 
three  disadvantages,  it  is  true, 
but  none  of  them  is  insurmount- 
able. The  risks  which  he  runs 
from  mice,  birds  and  slugs  are 
rather  greater  than  when  culture 
under  glass  is  followed.  How- 
ever, if  the  seeds  are  damped  and 
shaken  vigorously  in  a  bag  with  a 
little  powdered  red  lead,  mice 
will  not  do  serious  harm  ;  birds 
can  certainly  be  kept  at  bay  by 
prompt  and  efficient  threading  (I 
always  like  to  see  this  done  the 
moment  the  seeds  are  sown,  as 
one  is  then  quite  safe)  :  while 
persistent  hunting  will  keep  down 
the  slugs.  No  matter  what  any- 
one says,  let  those  who  have  not 
yet  sown  their  seeds  get  them  in 
at  the  first  convenient  moment 
when  the  soil  and  weather  are 
favourable,  for  it  is  certain  that 
they  will  not  be  disappointed 
witi  the  results.  As  a  matter  of 
fact,  the  conditions  in  March  this 
year  were  so  peculiarly  wretched 
that  the  April-sown  seeds  will 
almost  catch  up  those  sown  in  the 
previous  month. 

Tying  and  Staking.  —  This 
will  sound  more  as  though  one  were  about  to 
write  of  Chrysanthemums  rather  than  Sweet 
Peas ;  tying  with  the  former  is  acknow- 
ledged to  be  essential  to  success,  and  I  am 
of  the  opinion  that  it  is  equally  as  impor- 
tant with  Sweet  Peas.  Neither  plants  grow- 
ing in  pots  nor  those  in  the  open  ground 
ought  ever  to  be  allowed  to  fall  over,  and  to 
prevent  this  twiggy  sticks  are  advocated  before 
the  plants  attain  to  a  height  of  more  than 
4  inches.  But  at  this  stage  there  are  no  tendrils 
with  suflioient  strength  to  hold  the  plants  to  the 
supports  and,  therefore,  tying  becomes  necessary. 
Put  on  a  loose,  secure  ligature  that  will  keep  the 
plants  upright,  and  all  should  go  well.  In  the 
case  of  outdoor  plants,  which  it  is  purposed 
shall  be  supported  on  wire  trellises,  it  is  wise  to 


have  the  first  stakes  about  2  feet  high  out  of  the 
ground,  so  that  the  plants  will  not  have  to  climb 
the  wire  in  the  earliest  stages.  For  ordinary 
Hazel  or  other  natural  sticks  the  preliminary 
ones  need  only  be  about  1  foot  high. 

Thixnikg. — This  is  one  of  the  most  important 
details  in  successful  Sweet  Pea  cultivation. 
Early  thinning  is  commonly  advocated ;  but 
where  the  seeds  were  sown  thinly  to  start  with, 
it  is  imperative  that  some  judgment  shall  be 
exercised  in  this  operation,  especially  as  to  when 
a  start  should  be  made.  No  matter  how 
strenuously  one  may  strive  to  keep  the  slugs  at 
bay,  there  is  an  ever-present  probability  that 
some  plants  will  be  lost,  and  if  we  have  sown 


THE   giant    PERSIAN   CYf'LAMEN   (SWEET-SCENTED). 

thinly  and  thinned  early,  we  may  find  that  our  i 
plants  are  standing  rather  further  apart  than  we  j 
desire,  or  than  will  give  us  a  handsome  line  or 
clump  as  the  case  may  be.     In  no  circumstances,  ' 
of  course,  must  the  importance  of  proper  thinning 
be  overlooked ;  but  I  would  urge  upon  cultivators 
the  necessity  of  hastening  slowly,  always  carry- 
ing  out   the  work    in   stages,   notwithstanding 
the   fact    that  this   will    involve    rather    more 
time.  SiPENCEB. 


POLYANTHUS    PRIMROSES. 
The  name  Polyanthus  Primrose,  or  Bunch  Prim- 
rose,  sufficiently  describes    the  form   of    these 
flowers,  and  gives  us,  at  the  same  time,  their 
parentage.     We  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Walton  for 


this  charming  race  of  fragrant  flowers,  for  I 
understand  he  first  raised  them,  many  years  ago, 
in  his  garden  at  Kingston-on-Thames.  After  his 
death  his  plants  passed  into  the  hands  of  other 
workers,  who  have  in  their  turn,  by  careful 
selection  and  cross-fertilisation,  gradually  eflfected 
improvements  in  habit  and  colour,  until  we  now 
have  those  lovely  flowers  which  may  be  seen  in 
the  best  strains  of  the  present  day.  They  can  be 
easily  raised  from  seed  and  are  quite  hardy, 
flourishing  in  almost  any  climate  and  in  any  soil. 
Only  the  other  day  I  was  told  of  some  plants  that 
htid  been  through  a  Canadian  winter  with  the 
thermometer  several  times  registering  40°  below 
zero,  and  they  had  bloomed  well  the  following 
spring.  They  will  stand  a  good 
deal  in  the  way  of  drought,  too, 
but  they  do  not  like  it.  Shade, 
or  rather  shelter,  a  good  deep, 
rich  and  well-drained  soil,  and  a 
somewhat  moist  climate  are  what 
they  revel  in,  and  it  is  amazing 
to  what  size  and  perfection  they 
will  attain  under  these  favourable 
conditions.  I  have  several  times 
measured  flowers  over  2  inches 
across. 

The  plants  are  best  raised  from 
seed,  which  can  be  sown  at  any 
time  during  the  spring  or  summer. 
If  sown  early  the  seedlings  should 
flower  the  following  spring ;  if, 
however,  the  seed  is  sown  in  July 
or  August,  and  the  little  seedlings 
pricked  out  into  boxes  for  the 
winter  and  given  the  protection 
of  a  cold  frame,  they  make  nice 
plants  for  putting  out  the  follow- 
ing season,  to  bloom  the  second 
season  after  sowing  the  seed. 

The  plants  generally  produce 
both  Primrose  and  Polyanthus 
stems.  The  coloured  plate  in 
The  Garden  for  August  29  last 
shows  three  stems  of  Polyanthus, 
and  these  flowers  were  out  from 
plants  selected  from  among  a  lot 
of  Polyanthus  Primroses  as  having 
more  of  the  true  Polyanthus 
habit.  This  is  a  type  of  plant 
that  will,  I  think,  appeal  to  most 
people,  a  tall  stem  with  large, 
well-formed  flowers  of  clear  bright 
colour,  holding  themselves  erect 
and  forming  a  compact  head. 

They  are  most  effective  in  the 
border,  as  the  flowers  are  thrown 
well  above  the  foliage,  and  they 
are  most  useful  for  cutting.  A 
good  breadth  of  these  plants  in 
full  bloom  is  a  sight  not  easily 
forgotten,  and  their  delicious 
scent  is  no  small  recommendation. 
They  make  splendid  companions 
to  the  Daffodils,  and  as  pot  plants 
they  are  most  useful.  i?he  Poly- 
anthus Primroses  are  generally  at 
their  best  towards  the  end  of  April, 
but  give  a  few  blooms  through 
the  winter  in  open  weather.  I 
have  had  a  plant  in  full  bloom  in  November. 
I  do  not  recommend  dividing  the  plants  unless 
it  is  desired  to  increase  any  particularly  fine 
specimen  ;  they  do  not  seem  to  recover  the  dis- 
turbance of  their  roots  for  two  seasons  after 
division.  I  do  not  mean  that  they  will  not 
flower  for  two  years,  but  that  they  do  not  give 
quite  the  same  quality  blooms,  and  for  the  same 
reason  it  is  best  to  plant  them  where  they  may 
be  allowed  to  remain  undisturbed  for  several 
years,  a«  they  are  generally  at  their  best  the 
second  and  third  seasons  of  flowering.  I  have 
had  plants  that  have  gone  on  to  a  fourth  and  even 
a  fifth  year  producing  literally  a  cushion  of 
bloom  in  a  sheltered  position  in  good,  deep  soil 
in  a  shrubbery,  protected  from  the  wind,  shaded 
from  the  midday  sun  in  summer,  and  so  able  to 


April  10,  1909.) 


THE    GARDEN 


179 


retain  their  leaves  all  the  year  round.  This  is  a 
sure  sign  that  they  are  in  good  health  and  in  the 
right  place :  if  they  lose  their  leaves  in  the 
summer  the  plants  have  to  start  afresh  when  the 
season  of  growth  comes  round  again,  and  this,  no 
doubt,  takes  a  lot  out  of  them.     W.  A.  Watts. 


DAFFODIL  AND  TULIP  NOTES. 
Early  Tulips  in  1909. 
Up  to  the  end  of  March  very  few  really  good  pots 
of  early-flowering  Tulips  have  been  seen  at 
Vincent  Square.  There  is  a  general  complaint 
that  these  varieties  have  done  badly.  Either 
they  have  flowered  without  any  stem  or  the 
blooms  have  been  small,  or  they  have  had  green 
or  burnt-looking  tips  to  the  petals.  I  was 
telling  Mr.  S.  T.  Wright  of  Wisley  Gardens 
my  own  experience,  which  was  as  I  have 
described  above,  and  he  told  me  that  he 
had  noticed  similar  failures  in  gardens  that  he 
had  visited.  For  failures  to  be  so  common 
there  must  have  been  something  deficient  in 
the  ripening  season  in  Holland.  I  remem- 
ber now  that  I  heard  last  June  that  the 
leaves  of  some  early  kinds  had  suddenly 
died  down  before  their  proper  time.  If 
so,  it  is  obvious  that  the  bulbs  would  be 
in  a  half-starved  state  when  they  were 
lifted,  and  it  is  no  surprise  to  find  that 
they  have  not  had  sufficient  strength  to 
stand  early  forcing.  My  second  batch, 
which  were  in  flower  about  the  25th  to 
the  3l8t  ult. ,  were  certainly  much  better 
than  the  ones  that  I  had  had  a  month 
or  six  weeks  previously.  I  think  it  only 
right  to  mention  this  in  my  notes,  as 
there  may  be  some  gardeners  who  have 
been  unjustly  blamed  for  what  was  not 
their  fault  and  for  mischief  which  no 
skill  or  care  on  their  part  could  repair. 

At  Vincent  Square  on  March  2.S 

the  backwardness  of  the  season  was  very 
much  in  evidence.  There  was  not  a 
single  Dafibdil  exhibited  that  had  been 
grown  in  the  open.  Even  Mr.  Dawson  of 
Penzance  had  to  write  and  say  that  he 
was  unable  to  bring  his  intended  exhibit. 
Perhaps  it  is  as  well  that  we  should 
have  late  seasons  every  now  and  again ; 
they  serve  to  remind  us  that  we  must  be 
prepared  to  meet  the  fickleness  of  our 
climate.  As  far  as  Daffodils  are  concerned , 
only  a  few  years  ago  our  choice  of  varie- 
ties for  pots  was  exceedingly  limited, 
or  possibly  I  should  say  we  severely 
limited  ourselves  in  our  choice.  For 
very  early  work  it  is  not  very  different 
to-day,  but  for  later  work — that  is,  for 
flowering  under  glass  immediately  before 
the  outdoor  ones  come  in — we  have  a 
very  large  choice.  Messrs.  Cartwright 
and  Goodwin  had  a  similar  collection  to 
that  which  they  put  up  on  the  9th  ult.  Anyone 
who  wished  to  make  a  selection  of  what  to  buy 
for  pot  work  in  March  had  a  splendid  opportunity 
for  making  notes,  because  the  flowers  then 
exhibited  had  been  grown  under  the  exact  con- 
ditions for  which  they  would  be  wanted. 

Salamander  and  Coreen  are  two  quite  new 
Engleheartii  cupped  varieties.  The  former  has  a 
sort  of  Castile  coloured  perianth,  with  a  deeper 
shade  of  the  same  in  the  eye,  which  has  a  wide 
orange  red  edge.  It  is  a  large,  striking  flower. 
The  latter  is  much  smaller  and  has  an  ivory  white 
perianth,  with  a  rather  crinkled  cup  faintly  tinted 
and  edged  with  red.  There  were  two  or  three 
vases  of  the  lovely  Leedsii  Evangeline.  Mr. 
Cartwright  told  me  that  my  description  of  it  as 
a  "  bicolor  Homespun  "  had  "  caught  on."  I  do 
not  think  any  description  can  convey  a  better 
idea  of  its  general  appearance  than  this.  Seagull 
is  a  splendid  thing  to  grow  in  pots  ;  it  is  so  very 
floriferous  and  it  responds  so  easily  to  gentle 
heat.  Glory  of  Leiden  is  a  general  favourite  and 
a  variety  that  I  can  strongly  recommend.    Castile 


looked  more  beautiful  than  ever.  I  had  never 
seen  it  grown  under  glass  before,  and  now  I  have 
seen  it  I  must  have  a  potful  next  year.  Mrs. 
H.  J.  Veitoh  is  a  deeper-coloured  Emperor,  with 
an  almost  Tenby  shaped  perianth.  Autocrat, 
the  old  soft  yellow  incomparabilis,  is  still  without 
a  rival  in  its  own  particular  type.  I  have  found 
out  this  year  how  well  it  does  in  pots.  These  and 
many  others,  such  as  White  Lady,  Sunset,  Mme. 
de  Graaff  and  Johnstonii  Queen  of  Spain  were  all 
to  be  seen  in  excellent  condition. 

Messrs.  Barr  and  Son  had  a  small  group  that 
contained  a  fair  proportion  of  large  trumpets. 
They  had  also  a  collection  of  Darwin  Tulips. 
The  blooms  were  a  little  on  the  small  side,  but 
they  were  very  fresh  and  clean.  Landelle, 
Margaret  and  May  Queen  were  among  the  best. 

Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath  staged  a  large  collection  of 
Daffodils  and  Tulips  grown  in  moss  fibre.  I  do 
not  think  I  ever  saw  a  larger  exhibit  of  the 
kind.  It  is  a  big  thing  to  bring  so  many  orna- 
mental bowls  all  the  way  from  Wisbech.  I 
happened  on  the  evening  before  the  show  to  see 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 


THE   ORDINARY   PERSIAN   CTCLAMEN    AT   READING. 


the  cases  they  were  brought  in.  There  were 
eleven  3  feet  high,  1  foot  9  inches  wide  and 
4  feet  long,  and  three  or  four  very  large  flat  ones. 
They  had  travelled  well,  and  Messrs.  Bath  were 
able  to  put  their  flowers  before  the  public  in 
excellent  condition.  Among  such  sorts  as 
Emperor,  Sir  Watkin,  Weardale  Perfection, 
Gloria  Mundi  and  Victoria  I  noticed  some 
Poetaz  (Elvira  and  Irene).  These  are  just  the 
thing  for  pots  and  bowls,  and  only  want  to  be 
better  known  to  be  more  appreciated.  There 
were  also  two  or  three  vases  of  a  new  Poeticus, 
Marian  (cut  flowers).  It  is  a  tall,  robust  grower, 
having  a  somewhat  flat  eye,  with  recurvus 
colouring.  In  the  open  it  blooms  between 
ornatus  and  the  old  Poeticus.  I  believe  a  great 
many  admired  it  very  much. 

Messrs.  R.  Sydenham,  Limited,  among  other 
things  had  a  few  very  nice  flowers  of  Glitter. 
Judging  from  their  exhibit,  I  should  call  it  a 
good  thing  for  pots.  It  may  be  described  as  a 
small,  round  Barri  oonspieuus,  with  a  flat,  over- 
lapping perianth  Joseph  Jacob. 


THE    SWEET-SCENTED     CYCLAMEN. 

KNOWING  the  great  interest  I  take  in 
this  flower,  the  Editor  has  asked  for 
a  few  notes  to  accompany  some  photo- 
graphs of  Messrs.  Sutton's  Cyclamen. 
It  has  always  been  a  matter  of 
surprise  that,  in  the  great  improve- 
ment of  the  Cyclamen  in  form,  colour  and  habit, 
one  of  its  principal  charms,  the  scent,  should  have 
practically  disappeared.  To  find  out  what  a 
former  generation  of  gardeners  thought  of  C. 
persicum,  I  have  turned  up  some  old  magazines, 
and  in  the  "  Floricultural  Cabinet "  of  1849, 
"  Amicus  "  begins  an  article  on  its  culture  thus  : 
"Several  papers  relative  to  the  culture  of 
this  lovely  sweet-scented  flower  have  already 
appeared  in  this  magazine,  but  I  think  it 
cannot  too  often  be  brought  before  the  notice  of 
all  lovers  of , fragrant  flowers,"  &;c.  So  that  sixty 
years  ago  it  evidently  ranked  with  the 
Dest  as  regards  perfume.  This,  by  the 
way,  is  not  unlike  that  of  a  Freesia,  and 
the  mixed  scent  of  that  flower  and  the 
Cyclamen  is  most  delicious. 

In  another  work  of,  I  think,  1858,  it 
is  mentioned  that  some  of  the  C.  persi- 
cum seedlings  were  sweet,  but  that  it 
was  an  uncertain  quality.  No  doubt  the 
"improving"  process  had  commenced. 
In  the  Gardener's  Assistant  of  1877  there 
is  a  fine  plate  (coloured)  of  improved 
varieties  grown  by  Mr.  Little  of 
Twickenham  ;  but  here  not  a  word  is 
siid  as  to  any  fragrant  qualities.  I  may 
say  that  the  blooms  figured  are  of  most 
exquisite  shape,  none  of  the  butterfly 
type,  now  so  fashionable,  being  visible. 
1  have,  myself,  always  set  my  face 
against  this  fancy  type  and  endeavoured 
to  keep  the  good  old  shape  as  true  as 
possible,  but  it  is  a  difficult  matter  and 
has  somewhat  hindered  the  progress  of 
the  scented  strain,  some  of  which  I  am 
pleased  to  think  figure  in  the  illus- 
tration of  Messrs.  Sutton's  flowers,  and 
no  doubt  under  their  skilful  treatment 
an  advance  will  soon  be  made. 

As  far  as  I  have  got  at  present,  I  have 
a  rosy  pink  flower,  very  constant  and 
true  from  seed,  several  varieties  of  white 
with  pink  or  rosy  base,  also  a  giant 
white  scarcely  fixed  as  yet,  and  a  bright 
claret.  So  far  I  have  had  no  success 
with  the  salmon  or  the  very  dark  flowers 
or  Vulcan. 

A  word  as  to  the  original  flower  that  I 
used  to  restore  the  lost  perfume  may  be 
interesting.     I  called  at  a  village  inn  one 
day  and  at  once   "winded"    a    sweet- 
scented    Cyclamen.       I    found    in    the 
window      a     miserable     plant     with     two     or 
three  scraggy  blooms,  as  far  as  shape  was  con- 
cerned,  but  evidently  one  of  the  old-fashioned 
C.  persicum.     I  begged  for  seeds,  which  after  a 
year  or  two  produced   plants   which  furnished 
pollen  to  fertilise  some  of  my  best  flowers,  and 
after  some  twelve  years  of  crossing  and  selection 
I  have  got  my  present  strain.      My  gardener 
described  his  system  of  cultivation  some  two  or 
three  years  ago  in  these  columns.     I  need  only 
say  that  it  is  up-to-date  in  most  particulars. 
Sulhampatead.  J.  T.  Strange. 

CALCEOLAEIA  BURBIDGEL 
Apart  from  its  value  as  a  summer-flowering 
subject  for  the  flower  garden,  this  hybrid  Calceo- 
laria is  a  useful  plant  in  the  greenhouse  in 
March  and  April,  when  yellow  flowers  other 
than  Narcissi  are  none  too  plentiful.  The  upper 
smaller  lip  is  a  much  more  pronounced  and  deeper 
yellow  than  the  lower,  which  is  quite  pale  in  tint, 
yet  beautiful  in  its  shading.  A  slight  bronze 
marking  is  visible  in  the  throat.  E.  M. 


180 


THE     GARDEN. 


[April  10,  1909. 


QARDENI NG      FOR      'BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.  —  The  principal 
work  in  this  department  will  be  the 
sowing  of  various  hardy  annuals,  for 
particulars  of  which  see  last  week's 
calendar.  In  addition  to  the  kinds 
mentioned  there  the  following  are 
showy  and  easily  grown  :  Virginian  Stock,  Bar- 
tonia  aurea,  Eschscholtzias  (both  yellow  and  ruby 
coloured  varieties).  Erysimum  perowskianum  (rich 
orange  yellow  flowers,  somewhat  resembling  small 
Wallflowers),  Nigella  Miss  Jekyll,  Godetias  and 
Clarkias  of  various  colours,  Nemophila  insignis 
(should  not  be  sown  where  cats  are  troublesome), 
Helichrysum-  (Everlasting  Flower),  Candytuft 
(both  white  and  rose  coloured  varieties),  Phacelia 
campanularia,  Chrysanthemum  coronaria,  Lark- 
spurs of  various  colours  and  forms,  Lupinus 
nanus  and  the  various  Tom  Thumb  and  climbing 
Nasturtiums.  The  last  named,  however,  should 
not  be  sown  until  the  end  of  the  month.  The 
pruning  of  Roses  should  now  be  completed  as 
soon  as  possible,  full  particulars  of  which  were 
given  and  illustrated  in  the  issue  for  the  20th  ult. 
Early  flowering  Chrysanthemums  may  now  have 
attention  where  an  increase  of  stock  is  required. 
I  know  many  growers  advocate  taking'  cuttings 
in  February,  but  not  every  amateur  has  the  con- 
venience to  do  this.  Old  stools  now  should  have 
strong  young  shoots  several  inches  long,  and  these 
can  usually  be  detached,  each  with  a  few  roots. 
If  such  pieces  are  inserted  at  once  in  good, 
moderately  rich  soil,  they  will  grow  away  very 
quickly.  When  1  foot  high  pinch  out  the  top  of 
each,  and  excellent  plants  will  be  formed  by  the 
autumn. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Many  amateurs  possess  a 
cold  frame  and  likewise  a  partiality  for  early 
French  Beans.  A  few  seeds  sown  in  4J-inoh 
pots  now  (two  seeds  in  each  pot)  and  stood  in  the 
cold  frame  will  provide  plants  for  putting  out  as 
soon  as  all  danger  of  frosts  is  over,  and  pickings 


from  these  will  be  available  some  time  before 
those  sown  outdoors  are  ready.  Where  pots  are 
not  available,  turves  4  inches  square  may  be  used, 
placing  two  seeds  in  each.  Failing  either  sow  in 
3-inch  deep  boxes,  or  even  in  soil  placed  in  the 
bottom  of  the  frame,  but  in  such  cases  trans- 
planting is,  of  course,  more  difficult.  Use  good 
fibrous  loam  of  a  rather  sandy  character,  and 
give  abundance  of  air  as  soon  as  the  seedlings  are 
up,  protection  from  frost  being  all  that  is  neces- 
sary. A  dwarf,  compact-growing  variety  is  best 
for  this  early  work.  Sow  more  Radishes  and 
Lettuces  to  follow  the  early  crops.  Autumn- 
sown  Lettuce,  where  they  have  survived,  will  now 
be  growing  away  freely,  and  about  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  finely  crushed  nitrate  of  soda  sprinkled 
round  each  and  lightly  hoed  in  will  hasten  the 
formation  of  crisp,  green  leaves. 

Fruit  Garden.  — During  dry  weather  much  good 
will  be  done  by  lightly  hoeing  and  stirring  the 
soil  between  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees.  Where  this 
was  turned  up  rough  during  the  winter  months 
it  will  break  down  finely  now,  in  which  condition 
it  does  not  allow  moisture  to  escape  very  rapidly. 
Any  newly  planted  standard  trees  that  have  not 
already  been  staked  must  have  attention  in  this 
direction  if  exposed  to  strong  winds,  otherwise 
they  will  be  prevented  from  rooting  freely  into 
the  new  soil. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Cuttings  of  the  best 
Zonal  Pelargoniums  (Geraniums)  may  now  be 
made  and  inserted  in  rather  sandy  soil.  If  stood 
in  a  warm  corner  of  the  greenhouse  and  shaded 
from  very  bright  sunshine  they  will  quickly  root, 
and  if  grown  on  through  the  summer  and  all 
flower-buds  are  rigorously  pinched  out  they  will 
come  in  splendidly  for  flowering  in  the  late 
autumn  and  winter.  Seedlings  of  all'  kinds  must 
be  pricked  off  or  potted  up  as  they  become  large 
enough,  any  neglect  in  thisrespecthavingto  be  paid 
for  dearly  later  on.  Rooted  cuttings  of  Dahlias  may 
soon  go  into  the  cold  frames,  particularly  if  the 
weather  is  bright  and  warm,  as  it  is  necessary  to 
encourage  grow  th  of  a  hard  and  sturdy  character. 
Runners  from  Violets  should  be  taken  and  planted 
in  a  cool  but  open  position  outdoors,  allowing  a 
distance  of  12  inches  between  the  plants.        H. 


I. — A   WKT.T.-KOOTED    A«PIDI8TRA   THAT   NEEDS 
REPOTTINO. 


REPOTTING     AND    DIVIDING    THE 
ASPIDISTRA. 

The  more  generally  grown  Aspidistras  are  those 
of  Chinese  origin,  and  are  known  respectively  as 
Aspidistra  lurida  and  A.  1.  variegata.  The 
former  is  the  well-known  plant  with  green  leaves, 
and  the  latter  the  variety  possessing  green  leaves 
striped  pale  yellow  or  white — hence  the  term 
variegata.  There  are  no  more  popular  plants  for 
the  dwelling-house  than  the  subjects  under 
notice,  their  common  English  name  being  Parlour 
Palm. 

The  Parlour  Palm  is  a  plant  that  takes  most 
kindly  to  almost  any  position  in  the  rooms  of  our 
homes,  and  resists,  apparently  with  comparative 
eaKe,  the  injurious  eflects  of  gas  and  impure  air. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  is  one  of  the  few  plants 
that  can  be  recommended  for  beautifying  the 
rooms  where  gas  is  burnt  day  after  day  for  many 
months,  a  weekly  sponging  of  the  leaves  with 
tepid  water  sufficing  to  remove  all  accumulations 
of  dirt  and  impure  matter  and  to  maintain  the 
plant  in  a  healthy  condition. 

Carelessness  in  regard  to  the  question  of 
watering  is  a  common  source  of  failure  with  this 
subject.  In  some  cases  a  too  generous  supply  of 
water,  where  the  plants  have  been  badly  potted 
up,  causes  the  soil  to  become  sodden  and 
sour,  and  a    falling-off  in    the    vigour    of  their 


— PORTIONS    OF    A    DIVIDED    PLANT 
THE  BHIZOMES   OR   UNDERGROUND 


SHOWTNG 

STEMS. 


growth  ensues  as  a  consequence.  On  the  other 
hand,  many  plants  suffer  Irom  the  lack  of  a  suffi- 
cient supply  of  water  from  time  to  time.  All  too 
frequently  the  ornamental  vases  or  pots  in  which 
the  plants  are  stood  are  not  inspected  so  often  as 
they  should  be  ;  the  soil,  therefore,  becomes  dry, 
and  for  this  reason  the  plants  begin  to  deteriorate 
and  sometimes  fail  altogether. 

As  an  illustration  of  a  plant  in  robust  condi- 
tion, we  have  portrayed  in  Fig.  1  a  plant  shaken 
out  of  its  pot,  revealing  the  strong,  vigorous  roots 
in  abundance,  the  soil  being  almost  exclusively 
used  up  in  the  course  of  their  growth.  To  allow 
a  plant  to  remain  in  this  condition  for  any  con- 
siderable length  of  time  could  hardly  be  regarded 
as  promoting  its  well-being.  We  know  full  well 
that  by  the  application  of  manure  water  it  is 
possible  to  make  up  for  the  want  of  soil  in  the 
pot ;  but  a  beginner  could  hardly  appreciate  this 
so  well  as  an  experienced  grower.  This,  there- 
fore, points  to  the  need  of  repotting  or  division 
of  the  roots,  whichever  is  more  convenient. 

The  repotting  and  dividing  of  the  Aspidistra 
should  be  carried  out  during  April.  It  is  well 
to  remember  that  the  shifts  into  pots  of  larger 
size  should  not  be  too  extreme ;  for  instance, 
should  it  be  desired  to  transfer  the  plant  as  a 
whole,  one  in  a  pot  4^  inches  in  diameter  should 
be  repotted  into  one  measuring  6  inches  ;  6  inches 
into  8  iiiches  :  8  inches  into  10  inches,  and  so  on. 

Should  the  grower  prefer  to  divide  his 
Aspidistra  and  thus  make  several  plants  of  one 
old  specimen,  he  may  with  comparative  ease 
divide  it  up  into  several  pieces  such  as  are 
represented  in  Fig.  2.  A  plant  in  a  6-inch  pot 
will  sometimes  make  three  or  four  suitable 
pieces,  while  a  large  plant  will  divide  into 
numerous  sections,  each  capable  of  developing 
into  a  useful  plant  in  the  course  of  a  season's 
growth.  The  rhizomes  or  underground  stems 
divide  quite  easily  ;  but  should  there  be  in  some 
cases  too  great  an  accumulation  of  these,  it  may 
be  necessary  to  use  a  sharp  knife  to  sever  them. 
Keep  those  of  a  size  together,  grouping  each  set 
so  that  they  may  be  potted  up  in  a  series  of  the 
same  size. 

A  suitable  soil  for  repotting  should  comprise 
two  parts  of  good  fibrous  loam,  one  part  of  leaf- 
mould,  and  coarse  silver  sand  or  clean  road  grit 
added  in  sufficient  quantity  to  make  tha  compost 
porous.  Some  growers  prefer  to  use  peat  instead 
of  leaf-mould,  but  I  prefer  the  compost  made 
up  as  advised  above.  Fig.  3  represents  a  divided 
plant  a  month  or  two  after  division  and  repotting. 
Careful  observation  will  reveal  the  vigorous 
character  of  the  new  growths,  a  good  indication 
of  the  possibilities  of  the  plant  in  the  not  distant 
future.  It  is  important  to  remember  that  the 
underground  stems  or  rhizomes  should  not  be 
embedded  too  deeply.  There  is  a  tendency  when 
they  are  buried  too  deeply  for  the  young  leaves 


April  10,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


181 


to  split,  and  this  is,  of  course,  a  serious  disfigure- 
ment. In  this  instance  the  rhizomes  are  just 
slightly  covered. 

A  good  illustration  of  a  perfectly  healthy  plant 
growing  successfully  in  a  6-m3h  pot  is  shown  in 
Fig.  4.  For  so  small  a  pot  the  number  of  leaves 
must  be  regarded  as  very  satisfactory,  showing 
what  devotion  to  the  plant's  well-being  will 
yield  when  consistently  carried  out.  It  is  one 
of  several  taken  from  a  living-room,  where  the 
plants  play  a  not  unimportant  part  in  its  em- 
bellishment. In  growing  the  variegated  form  it 
is  well  not  to  over-pot  the  plants,  as  a  less  free 
root-run  has  the  effect  of  causing  greater  variega- 
tion. Much  of  the  variegation  is  lost  by  too 
frequent  repotting.  D.  B.  C. 

HOW   TO   TREAT   FORCED  BULBS. 

Forced  bulbs  are  generally  regarded  as  worthless 
by  inexperienced  persons  ;  but  there  are  excep- 
tions. I  know  that  many  amateurs  think  it  is 
quite  possible  to  again  force  the  bulbs  and  get  a 
good  return  of  blossom  from  them.  Bulbs 
growing  in  the  open  borders  continue  to  flower 
very  satisfactory  year  after  year  ;  but  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  these  bulbs  are  never  unduly 
excited  into  growth — they  grow  and  blossom 
naturally — whereas  when  forced  they  are  unduly 
excited  into  growth  and  considerably  weakened 
thereby. 

Now  I  think  it  is  a  great  waste  of  good  material 
and  decidedly  bad  policy  to  discard  all  forced 
bulbs.  I  grant  that  they  are  considerably 
weakened  by  forcing,  but  it  is  the  bad  manage- 
ment afterwards  that  is  responsible  for  their 
entire  uselessness.  Directly  the  bulbs  have 
finished  flowering,  or  the  flowers  have  been  cut, 
the  bulbs  are  put  on  one  side  and  rarely  attended 
to  afterwards.     This   is  a  mistake.      Place  the 


3. — PORTION  OF  A  DIVIDED  PLANT  AFTER 
REPOTTING.  NOTE  THE  NEW  LEAVES 
THAT  ARE   IN   COURSE   OP  DEVELOPMENT. 

bulbs  in  a  frame  or  similar  structure  after  the 
flowers  have  been  used,  and  gradually  harden 
and  ripen  them.  All  water  must  not  be  withheld 
at  once ;  this  should  be  gradually  lessened.  Then 
when  the  bulbs  are  hardened,  and  the  foliage 
attached  to  them  has  matured  as  naturally  as 
possible,  they  must  be  planted  in  borders  where 
they  can  be  left  undisturbed  for  several  years. 


I  like  to  plant  them  in  groups  of  Hyacinths, 
Tulips,  Nareissi,  Jonquils,  Orooi,  &e.,  separately, 
and  having  done  so  for  many  years  I  find  that 
these  clumps  of  blossom  make  the  borders  look 
quite  gay,  and  when  cut  flowers  are  required  it  is 
not  a  difficult  matter  to  soon  fill  a  basket  with 
them.  Of  course,  the  individual  flowers  are 
smaller  in  most  oases  than  those  forced  for  the 
first  time,  but  they  possess  a  beauty,  a  great 
beauty,  all  their  own.  Shamrock. 


POTTING    ROSES. 

Much  has  been  written  from  time  to  time  upon 
pot  Roses,  but  few  writers  appear  to  give  a  short 
and  simple  account  of  how  to  pot  them.  I  am  a 
believer  in  frequent  potting  of  Roses.  They  are 
gross  feeders  and  need  more  fresh  soil  than  the 
majority  of  plants.  Artificial  food  has  a  ten- 
dency to  make  the  soil  sour  if  used  freely  ;  so, 
too,  does  liquid  or  animal  manure,  and  I  have 
had  the  best  success  by  more  frequent  repotting 
than  many  practise.  It  is  not  necessary  to 
afford  a  large  shift  if  we  remove  as  much  as 
possible  of  the  older  compost  without  unduly 
disturbing  the  roots.  To  a  great  extent  this 
depends  upon  whether  the  plants  are  in  full 
growth  or  almost  dormant.  All  of  us  have 
noted  how  quickly  Roses  make  new  roots  when 
laid  in  fresh  soil,  and  I  endeavour  to  encourage 
these  by  frequent  shiftings. 

Firmness  in  potting  is  not  considered  so  much 
as  it  should  be.  If  the  soil  is  loose  around  the 
bole  of  the  plant  the  water  percolates  too  quickly 
to  afford  the  required  moisture,  except  to  the 
new  soil,  and  this  does  not  need  it ;  in  fact,  it  is 
better  without.  For  this  reason  we  make  a 
practice  of  well  soaking  the  roots  before 
repotting.  The  question  of  compost  is  important. 
By  far  the  best  is  a  turfy  loam  with  a  tendency 
to  stiffness.  Any  manure  that  is  added  should 
be  thoroughly  decayed.  Cow-manure  is  excellent. 
After  trying  a  good  many  artificial  manures  in 
various  forms  and  mixtures,  I  have  ceased  to 
use  them  in  potting  compost  with  the  exception 
of  crushed  bones.  Where  half-inch  or  quarter-inch 
bones  are  used,  little  sand  or  other  grit  is  needed. 
I  also  find  half -inch  bones  a  good  thing  to  put 
over  the  crocksherds.  One  good  crock  over 
each  hole  with  a  few  bones  is  all  that  is 
required,  but  it  is  necessary  to  do  the  work  in  a 
thorough  manner,  otherwise  good  results  cannot 
be  expected.  Attention  to  all  the  above-men- 
tioned details  will  ensure  success  with  Roses 
grown  in  pots.  A.  P. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


London  Pride. — This  plant  (Saxifraga  umbrosa) 
is  one  of  the  most  useful  for  town  gardens. 
Where  a  number  of  trees  with  their  spreading 
branches  block  out  nearly  half  the  daylight  from 
the  borders  beneath  them,  it  is  a  difficult  matter 
to  furnish  such  borders  with  flowering  plants. 
Ferns,  of  course,  may  be  very  successfully 
grown,  but  blossoms  as  well  as  foliage  are  needed 
in  the  majority  of  oases.  A  few  flowers  even 
will  grow  in  the  gloomy  corners,  but  not  one 
will  thrive  as  satisfactorily  as  London  Pride.  It 
is  a  plant  that  will  grow  freely  in  almost  any 
part  of  the  garden,  but  beneath  the  trees  the 
stems  are  longer  and  the  sprays  of  tiny  flowers 
more  feathery,  so  that  the  plant  is  a  success  in 
every  way.  For  cutting  and  placing  in  vases  in 
the  dwelling-rooms  the  spikes  of  blossom  are 
exquisite.  Common  garden  soil  will  be  quite 
suitable  for  these  plants,  as  they  are  very  hardy 
and  increase  in  number  rapidly,  but  like  many 
other  kinds  they  are  vastly  improved  by  careful 
cultivation.  If  the  ground  be  deeply  dug  and 
some  old  rotted  manure,  a  small  quantity  of  old 
mortar  rubble,  and  also  leaf-soil  are  mixed  with 
it  before  the  plants  are  put  in,  the  latter  will 
make  splendid  growth.     For  edgings  to  borders 


as  clumps  in  the  latter,  and  for  rookeries  London 
Pride  is  equally  suitable. 

Rockeries. — The  beautifully  curved  necks  of 
the  young  fronds  of  several  kinds  of  Ferns  are 
now  gradually  unfolding,  and  the  body  of  each 
will  very  soon  be  fully  formed.  Advantage 
must  be  taken  of  the  first  opportunity  now  to 
get  all  Fern  specimens  planted  in  the  rockeries. 
Another  general  oleaning  of  the  rookery  must 
also  take  place,  as  a  neglected  rockery  gives  an 
appearance  of  untidiness  to  the  whole  of  the 
garden.  Snowdrops,  Crocuses  and  other  bulbs 
ought  to  be  carefully  guarded  against  attacks  of 
insect    pests    and   mice  in   the    rookeries,   and 


4- — A    GOOD    AND    WELL-aROWN    SPECIMEN. 

where  additional  compost  seems  to  be  needed,  it 
should  be  placed  in  position  forthwith.  The  soil 
gradually  falls  away  from  the  roots  of  some 
rookery  plants,  and,  of  course,  it  is  advisable  to 
replace  it  at  the  most  convenient  time. 

Carnations. — Although  some  owners  of  town 
gardens  may  not  be  able  to  grow  the  Malmaison 
and  Tree  Carnations  owing  to  lack  of  suitable 
accommodation,  they  need  not  deprive  them- 
selves altogether  of  these  lovely  flowers.  One 
small  bed  of  border  Carnations  will  give  heaps 
of  pleasure.  There  are  some  delightfully  fragrant 
varieties  in  this  section  and  many  that  may  be 
easily  grown  in  the  town  garden.  The  present 
is  a  good  time  to  put  out  the  plants.  If 
purchased,  select  strong,  well-rooted  layers 
which  have  been  wintered  under  cool  conditions. 
The  following  are  good  varieties:  White,  Albion, 
Trojan,  Mrs.  Muir,  Bookham  Clove  and  Mrs. 
Eric  Hambro  ;  pink,  Raby  Castle  (this  is  one  of 
the  most  hardy  of  all  border  Carnations  and 
blossoms  during  a  longer  period  than  any  other). 
Duchess  of  Fife,  Leander  and  Miss  Willmott  ; 
apricot,  Benbow,  Midas,  Copperhead,  Mrs. 
Reynolds  Hole  and  Goldfinder;  rose,  Mona, 
Irene  Vaughan,  Julia  Neilson  and  Cupid ; 
yellow.  The  Pilgrim,  Germania,  Cecilia  and 
Miss  A.  Campbell ;  crimson,  Old  Clove,  Helen, 
Countess  of  Radnor,  Uriah  Pike  and  Mephisto  ; 
white  grounds,  Redbraes,  Alice  Ayres  and  The 
Nizam ;  yellow  grounds,  Childe  Harold,  Lauzan, 
Carmen  Sylva  and  Othello;  scarlet.  Isinglass, 
H.  J.  Cutbush,  Hayes  Scarlet  and  Roy  Morris  ; 
fancies,  Yolande,  Cardinal  Wolsey,  Artemis,' 
Monarch  and  Liberte.  The  soil  must  be  deeply 
dug  and  well  enriched  with  manure,  but  the 
manure  must  be  mixed  evenly  with  the  soil 
below  the  roots  of  the  young  plants,  as  it  is  not 
desirable  that  the  roots  should  come  in  contact 
with  the  manure  before  the  plants  have  become 
established  in  their  flowering  quarters.  As  the 
flower-stems  form,  the  roots  will  have  found  the 
manured  portion  of  the  soil,  and  from  this  time 
onwards  until  the  flowering  period  is  over,  and 
just  when  the  plants  need  stimulating,  they  will 
receive  due  support. 

Roses. — Finish  the  necessary  pruning  of  all 
Rose  trees  as  soon  as  possible.  The  buds  are 
now  making  rapid  growth,  and  as  much  wood 
and  bud  growth  must  be  out  away,  it  is  advisable 
to  prevent  the  weakening  of  the  plants  as  much 
as  possible.  Avon. 


182 


THE     GARDEN. 


[Atril  10,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 

PEACH  HOUSES.— Persevere  with  the 
disbudding  of  Peach  trees  and  attend 
to  the  tying  down  of  all  young  shoots 
that  will  be  wanted  for  filling  up 
space  and  for  fruiting  next  year. 
Syringe  twice  daily  on  all  favourable 
occasions  and  maintain  a  gentle  growing  atmo- 
sphere. Do  not  hurry  those  trees  which  have 
just  set  their  fruits,  but  trees  whose  fruits  are 
more  advanced  may  be  shut  up  early  in  the 
afternoon  after  they  have  been  syringed.  Keep 
a  night  temperature  of  55°  to  58°,  but  when  the 
fruits  have  passed  their  atoning  period  a  higher 
temperature  can  be  afforded  with  safety.  When 
thinning  the  fruits  always,  so  far  as  possible, 
retain  the  best-placed  Peaches  or  Nectarines  on 
the  upper  side  of  the  trellis,  and  those  of  uniform 
size,  and  do  not  allow  the  trees  to  carry  more 
fruits  than  they  can  well  finish.  One  to  1(1  inches 
is  ample  for  the  larger-sized  varieties.  Be  very 
watchful  with  trees  growing  in  pots  and  small 
borders,  taking  great  care  not  to  allow  the  roots 
to  suffer  from  want  of  moisture  and  feeding. 
When  syringing  see  that  every  branch  and  shoot 
is  well  done. 

Cherries.  — Where  these  are  grown  in  pots  they 
should  not  be  unduly  forced  until  they  have 
stoned  ;  a  safe  temperature  will  be  about  55°  by 
night.  Give  plenty  of  air  during  bright  weather 
and  fumigate  should  green  and  black  aphis  put  in 
an  appearance,  or  syringe  with  Quassia  Extract, 
but  not  after  the  fruits  have  finished  stoning. 
Attend  well  to  the  watering  and  feediftg  till  the 
fruits  begin  to  colour. 

Plants  under  Glass. 

Stove  Plants. — Many  of  these  will  now  be 
growing  apace.  Keep  the  atmosphere  moist  and 
shade  lightly  when  the  weather  is  bright,  and  as 
the  external  rise  of  temperature  increases  use 
less  fire-heat.  Attend  to  the  young  seedlings  of 
Gloxinias,  pricking  them  off  as  soon  as  they  are 
large  enough.  Propagate  more  Coleuses  where 
such  are  wanted  in  small  stages  of  growth.  Feed 
Gardenia  plants  with  a  little  Clay's  Fertilizer  or 
other  suitable  manure,  giving  a  little  in  a  rather 
weak  state  once  or  twice  weekly,  and  syringe  the 
plants  well  during  bright  weather. 

Propagation. — Formaintaining  a  healthy  stock 
of  many  kinds  of  flowering  plants,  propagation  is 
a  matter  of  the  utmost  importance.  Many 
plants  may  be  raised  from  cuttings  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  which,  with  careful  treatment,  will 
soon  develop  into  useful  specimens. 

Tuberovs-rooted  Begonias.  —  These  must  be 
given  liberal  treatment  if  large  plants  and  blooms 
are  reciuired.  Use  a  rather  rich  soil,  with 
enough  grit  to  keep  it  sweet.  Good  loam,  drved 
cow-manure  and  leaf-mould  should  be  employed 
for  strong  tubers.  These  grow  better  with  cool 
and  rather  moist  treatment. 

Calceolarias. — These  will  now  be  growing 
freely,  and  the  pots  in  which  the  plants  are 
intended  to  bloom  will  be  filled  with  roots.  A 
little  weak  manure  water  will  be  helpful  in 
assisting  the  plants  to  maintain  a  vigorous 
appearance.  Keep  the  plants  cool  and  check 
green  aphis.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Parle  Gardens,  Bamet. 

FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Conservatory  and  Greenhouse. 
Roof  Climbers. — Disbud  these  where  necessary 
and  tie  out  the  growths    before  they  become 
entwined.     Syringe  Roses  or  other  plants  that 


have  been  severely  pruned  to  encourage  fresh 
growth  ;  but  avoid  as  far  as  possible  damping 
flowering  plants  beneath  them.  Give  liberal 
supplies  of  water  to  the  roots  as  the  plants 
advance,  and  any  exhausted  through  age  or  by 
profuse  flowering  in  previous  years  would  be 
benefited  by  occasional  applications  of  liquid  or 
artificial  manures.  Fumigate  to  destroy  aphis, 
and  apply  sulphur  to  Rose  foliage  on  the  first 
appearance  of  mildew. 

Pot  Plants. —  Primulas,  Cyclamens  and  Cine- 
rarias are  now  approaching  their  most  attractive 
stage,  hence  the  plants  and  their  environment 
should  be  kept  as  tidy  as  possible.  Frequent 
changes  in  the  style  of  arrangement  should  be 
carried  out ;  the  grouping  system  rather  than 
undue  co-mingling  of  species  and  varieties  is 
most  likely  to  meet  with  appreciation.  Calceo- 
larias for  succession  should  be  finally  potted  and 
afterwards  placed  in  a  pit  near  the  glass  upon  a 
bed  of  soil  or  ashes,  which  will  lessen  the 
necessity  for  watering  to  a  great  extent. 
Camellias  in  flower  require  close  attention  as 
regards  watering.  If  healthy  at  the  roots  but 
sparsely  furnished  with  branches,  the  plants  may 
be  headed  back,  and  if  given  the  shade  and 
warmth  pertaining  to  an  early  vinery,  growths 
will  soon  emerge  from  where  severed. 

Stove  Plants. — With  fast  lengthening  days  and 
greater  warmth  syringing  may  be  more  freely 
indulged  in,  which,  while  inducing  growth,  will 
also  keep  insects  in  check.  Alocasias,  Caladiums, 
Gloxinias  and  many  other  fine  or  woolly  foliaged 
plants  should  never  be  syringed  overhead,  or 
disfigurement  will  ensue  ;  the  pots,  stages, 
stems  or  even  the  under-sides  of  the  leaves  may 
be  treated  in  this  way,  thus  providing  humidity 
sufficient  for  the  well-doing  of  the  plants. 
Cuttings  of  all  kinds  required  should  be  inserted 
as  fast  as  convenient,  including  a  batch  of  Begonia 
Gloire  de  Lorraine  for  late  flowering.  If  cuttings 
are  scarce,  some  of  the  smaller  of  the  flowered 
plants  may  be  shaken  out  and  repotted,  and  be 
placed  in  a  brisk  heat  until  growth  commences. 
Begonia  seedlings  are  best  pricked  off  as  soon  as 
possible  to  prevent  loss  from  damping. 

Vegetables  Under  Glass. 

Cucjimbers  growing  rapidly  require  frequent 
stopping,  and  some  of  the  weaker  shoots  may  be 
removed  to  prevent  overcrowding.  Setting  the 
blooms  at  midday,  though  not  absolutely  neces- 
sary, is  safe  practice. 

Beans  may  be  sown  from  time  to  time  according 
to  demand  and  stage  room,  keeping  to  a  quick- 
maturing  variety,  such  as  Sutton's  Forcing,  for 
pot  work  or  beds  in  pits.  For  planting  out  in 
cold  frames  when  bedding  plants  are  removed, 
sowings  in  4-ineh  pots  of  Ne  Plus  Ultra  and 
Canadian  Wonder  would  in  due  course  prove  very 
useful. 

Vegetable  Garden. 

Caulijlowers  sheltered  through  the  winter  or 
others  raised  from  seed  in  spring  and  properly 
hardened  may  now  be  planted  upon  a  well- 
sheltered  border.  Some  form  of  protection  in 
case  of  frost  would  be  helpful. 

Asparagus  Plantations  ma}'  be  put  in  order. 
Long  established  plants  would  benefit  from  a 
dressing  of  kainit  and  superphosphate  in  equal 
parts,  applied  at  the  rate  of  41b.  per  square  rod 
and  raked  in.  Planting  of  seedlings  is  best  done 
when  the  shoots  appear  above  ground,  and 
expedition  in  the  work,  so  that  the  roots  do  not 
get  dry,  is  essential  to  success.  The  soil,  having 
been  well  manured  and  deeply  worked,  may  be 
marked  out  in  beds  4  feet  wide,  with  2  feet 
alleys  between  ;  each  bed  will  thus  contain  three 
rows  of  plants.  Planting  may  also  be  done  in 
lines  30  inches  apart,  especially  upon  a  well- 
drained  site.  A  mixture  of  very  sandy  soil 
should  be  prepared  and  a  small  quantity  be 
placed  about  the  roots  of  each  plant. 

Peas.  — Sow  for  succession  as  previous  sowings 
appear  above  ground,  dress  with  soot  as  a 
deterrent  to  slugs  and  apply  stakes  when  the 
plants  are  a  few  inches  in  height. 


Vegetable  Ma/rrows. — Sow  a  few  seeds  of  a 
small-growing  sort,  such  as  Pen-y-byd,  for 
planting  in  frames.         James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Oalloway  House,  Oarlieston,  WigtmonalUre. 


THE    ECKFORD    SWEET 
PEAS. 

IN  every  quarter  of  the  globe  where  the 
now  deservedly  popular  Sweet  Pea  is 
grown  the  name  of  Eokford  is  known, 
and  in  the  United  Kingdom  it  would  be 
difl[ioult  indeed  to  find  even  a  hamlet 
where  some  of  Mr.  Eckford's  Sweet  Peas 
have  not  been  cultivated.  All  who  love  these 
flowers  are,  or  should  be,  fully  aware  of  the 
wonderful  pioneer  work  that  the  late  Henry 
Eckford  did  among  this  fragrant  and  graceful 
occupant  of  our  gardens,  and  the  remarkable 
improvements  that  resulted  from  his  labours. 

All  this,  however,  is  now  historical,  and 
practical  men  and  women  of  the  gardening 
world  will  probably  evince  a  greater  interest  in 
the  present  doings  of  this  world-famous  firm. 
A  worthy  successor  to  a  splendid  father  Mr.  J. 
S.  Eckford  has  proved  to  be,  and  by  personal 
attention  to  every  branch  of  the  work  he  has, 
even  in  these  strenuous  times,  kept  the  business 
thoroughly  up-to-date  in  every  respect. 

His  seed  farms  at  Wem,  a  charming  old-world 
village  in  Shropshire,  may  be  regarded  as  the 
home  of  the  modern  Sweet  Pea,  and  many  acres 
of  pedigree  stocks  are  grown  there  and  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  annually  for  seed  purposes. 
So  rapidly,  however,  has  the  demand  for  Eckford's 
seeds  increased  that  he  has  been  obliged  to 
secure  a  farm  in  the  famous  seed-growing  county 
of  Essex,  where  last  year  something  like  sixty 
acres  of  Sweet  Peas  were  grown.  The  ordinary 
grower  of  Sweet  Peas  has  but  a  poor  idea  of  the 
vast  amount  of  attention  and  labour  that  has  to 
be  expended  on  Sweet  Peas  grown  for  seed,  nor 
have  we  here  room  to  go  into  details  ;  but  on 
every  occasion  when  we  have  been  fortunate 
enough  to  visit  Mr  Eckford's  farms  we  have 
been  fully  convinced  that  all  that  is 
humanly  possible  is  done  to  ensure  the  best  and 
truest  stocks  only.  The  healthiest  plants  only 
are  retained,  and  should  one  be  noticed  (and  they 
are  closely  looked  for)  that  is  not  absolutely  true, 
it  is  at^  once  uprooted  and  destroyed.  Then 
again,  every  new  variety  raised  by  Mr.  Eckford 
is  thoroughly  tested,  eo  that  buyers  of  novelties 
from  Wem  may  rely  on  them  coming  true.  Three 
new  ones  raised  there  and  put  on  the  market  this 
year  for  the  first  time  are  :  Annie  B.  Gilroy,  a 
charming  cerise  self  which,  in  addition  to  its 
beauty  in  natural  light,  is  particularly  effec- 
tive under  artificial  illumination ;  Dodwell  F. 
Browne,  a  beautiful  large  waved  scarlet  crimson 
variety  ;  and  Mrs.  Charles  Masters,  a  beautiful 
bicolor,  with  rosy  salmon  standard  and  rich 
cream  wings. 

Those  who  have  noticed  our  advertisement 
pages  during  this  spring  will  have  observed  that 
Mr.  Eckford  does  not  devote  all  his  energies 
to  Sweet  Peas,  and  in  reality  is  almost  as  famous 
for  culinary  Peas.  Never  shall  we  forget  the 
trial  rows  of  these  seen  at  Wem  ;  the  robust 
haulm  was  simply  covered  from  bottom  to  top 
with  luscious  green  pods  that  really  made  one's 
mouth  water — and  such  pods,  too  ! — pods  that 
would  make  an  ordinary  exhibitor  open  his 
eyes  and  rejoice  the  heart  of  the  most  fastidious 
epicure.  An  internal  inspection  of  many  of 
these  pods  revealed  the  fact  that  they  were  not 
merely  bags  of  wind,  but  rather  cases  filled  from 
heel  to  apex  with  large,  deep  green,  evenly 
formed  Peas. 

In  addition  to  the  Pea  family,  all  other  kinds 
of  vegetable  and  flower  seeds  are  very  exten- 
sively grown  by  Mr.  Eckford,  and  we  advise  all 
our  readers  who  have  not  yet  seen  his  descrip- 
tive catalogue  to  write  for  a  free  copy  at  once. 


April  10,  1909.1 


THE     GARDEN. 


183 


MESSRS.     CARTER     &     CO.'S 
CHINESE    PRIMULAS. 

THE  Chinese  Primula  has  for  many 
years  been  a  great  favourite  in 
our  greenhouses  during  the  early 
spring  months,  and  although  we  now 
have  many  other  plants,  such  as 
Daifodils,  Tulips,  Hyacinths  and 
various  forced  shrubs  that  give  us  their  flowers 
at  this  season,  the  beautiful  and  curiously 
fragrant  Chinese  Primula  still"  holds  its  high 
position,  chiefly  owing  to  the  labours  of  the 
various  seed  firms  who  specialise  in  this  plant 
and  who  have  done  so  much  to  improve  it  in 
every  respect,  and  among  the  foremost  of  these 
must  rank  Messrs.  Carter  and  Co.,  the  well- 
known  seedsmen  of  High  Holborn. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  the  ordinary  cultivator  of 
these  charming  plants  has  at  the  most  but  a  faint 
idea  of  the  vast  amount  of  labour,  time  and, 
above  all,  scientific  knowledge  expended  on  the 
raising  of  new  varieties,  and  even  when  a  variety 
is  obtained  and  fixed,  the  procuration  of  good 
seed  is  a  task  that  calls  for  much  intelligent  lore- 
thought  and  care.  Not  only  are  varieties  now  in 
existence  that  possess  colours  which  a  decade  or 
two  ago  were  not  even  thought  of,  but  the 
plants  are  more  robust  and  floriferous  and  the 
flowers  of  better  form,  so  that  advance  has  been 
made  in  all  directions. 

We  recently  had  the  pleasure  of  visiting 
Messrs.  Carter's  nurseries  at  Forest  Hill,  where 
the  pedigree  stocks  of  Primulas  were  being 
grown  for  seed,  and  a  most  brilliant  yet  refined 
panorama  of  colour  was  presented  to  us.  The 
firm's  enthusiastic  manager  has  a  keen  eye  for 
colour  and  artistic  effect,  and  his  arrangement  of 
these  seed  Primulas  proved  that  it  is  possible  to 
combine  the  artistic  with  the  practical.  Whites, 
scarlets,  crimsons,  blues,  salmons,  pinks,  coral 
pinks,  magentas,  mauves  and  other  colour  shades 
were  massed  separately,  one  following  the  other 
in  such  order  as  to  give  not  the  slightest  offence  to 
the  eye.  Then  there  is  the  variation  in  colour  and 
form  of  the  foliage,  a  feature  of  Chinese  Primulas 
not  very  widely  known,  and  last  but  not  least  is 
the  peculiar  fragrance  given  off  by  the  plants,  a 
fragrance  that  we  have  long  had  a  liking  for. 
To  get  healthy  progeny  it  is  essential  to  have 
healthy  parents,  and  the  plants  seen  at  Forest 
Hill  were  strong  and  healthy  enough  to  please 
the  most  fastidious  critic  ;  from  15,000  to 
16,000  were  inspected. 

In  the  large-flowered  section,  which  is  a 
favourite  with  many,  the  good  things  were  so 
numerous  that  we  can  only  undertake  to  name  a 
few  of  the  best.  Holborn  Coral  is  a  most  charm- 
ing variety,  with  large,  rich  coral-pink  flowers 
with  yellow  eyes.  It  is  remarkably  floriferous, 
and  the  blooms  are  borne  well  above  the  foliage. 
King  Edward  is  a  highly  fringed,  pure  white 
sort,  with  large,  dark  green  foliage.  Giant 
White  is  a  late-flowering  variety,  with  immense 
extra  pure  blossoms.  Holborn  Salmon  is  one  we 
appreciated  very  much,  the  large  salmon  pink 
flowers  being  very  pleasing.  As  it  is  late  it 
forms  a  splendid  companion  to  Giant  White. 
Holborn  Crested  is  a  new  crested  variety,  the 
large  flowers  being  of  rich  carmine  rose  hue,  and 
very  warm  on  a  dull  winter  day.  The  Duchess 
is  too  well  known  to  need  any  description  here  ; 
it  will  suffice  it  we  say  that  Messrs.  Carter's 
strain  is  an  exceedingly  good  one  in  every  respect. 
Bouquet  is  a  unique  variety,  which  is  most 
appropriately  named,  the  truss  of  large,  pure 
white  flowers  forming  a  perfect  bouquet  owing 
to  the  ring  of  small  leaves  at  the  base  of 
the  petioles.  In  addition,  it  forms  an  ideal 
specimen  plant  and  comes  quite  true  from 
seed,  and  no  greenhouse  should  be  without 
it.  Holborn  Scarlet,  Orange  King,  Holborn 
Blue  and  True  Blue  are  other  grand  sorts  in 
this  section. 

Double-flowered  sorts  find  favour  with  many 
growers,     and    Messrs.    Carter  have    a    grand 


selection  of  these.  Princess  of  Wales,  white, 
with  carmine  flake ;  Double  Crimson,  very  rich 
and  free  ;  Lilac  Queen,  very  large  flowers  ; 
Vivid,  deep  rich  carmine ;  Snowflake,  white, 
slightly  tinged  pink ;  and  Prince  of  Wales, 
large  salmon  pink,  were  some  of  the  best  that 
we  saw. 

Among  the  elegant  Star  Primulas  we  noticed 
some  delightful  colours,  some  that  strongly 
appealed  to  us  being  Stellata  Pink,  S.  Salmon, 
S.  Crimson,  S.  White  and  S.  Carmine,  a  new 
variety  with  very  large  bright  flowers  and 
chocolate-coloured  foliage  and  stems,  and  a  unique 
and  good  acquisition. 

In  addition  to  the  Primulas  we  inspected  large 
stocks  of  Cinerarias,  Calceolarias  and  Streptoearpi, 
all  of  which  were  the  picture  of  health  and  gave 
promise  of  fine  crops  of  flowers  later  on. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


ROLES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Anavtrers.— The  Editor  ititendi, 
to  make  Thb  Sasden  helpful  to  aU  readers  who  desire 
issiatanee,  no  matter  what  the  braiich  of  gardening  may 
&c,  and  with  that  object  vnll  make  a  special  feature  of  tht 
"Ariswers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  c<mvmunica' 
tions  should  be  cUa/rly  and  concisely  written  on  one  sidt 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  BDiroR  of  Thi 
Qarden,  XO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publishee. 
The  rwme  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  iri 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  thi 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
^  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Flowers  for  May  (G.  i>.).— For  a 
reliable  display  in  May  for  your  district  nothing 
could  be  better  than  the  Cottage,  May-flowering 
or  Darwin  Tulips,  but,  of  course,  such  things 
require  to  be  planted  in  the  September  or 
October  previous,  and  are  now  impossible.  A 
bed  of  scarlet  Tulips  having  a  groundwork  of 
double  white  Arabis  would  be  most  effective,  or 
you  could  plant  Aubrietias,  Daffodils,  Forget- 
me-nots,  Daisies  and  Polyanthuses  ;  indeed,  this 
latter  set,  by  omitting  the  Daffodils,  would  give 
you  the  best  possible  display  you  could  have  in 
so  short  a  time,  though  even  these  would  natu- 
rally lose  greatly  in  effect  owing  to  the  recent 
disturbance. 

Begronlas  for  bedding  (C.  K  /.).— The 
Begonias  to  which  you  refer  are  those  of  the 
B.  semperflorens  type,  all  of  which  are  small 
flowered,  dwarf  growing  and  free.  A  few  of 
the  best  for  bedding  purposes  are  B.  s.  Anna 
Regina,  deep  rose ;  B.  s.  atropurpurea,  orange 
carmine,  glossy  red  foUage ;  B.  s.  a.  compacta, 
which  is  only  i  inches  or  5  inches  in  height ;  and 
B.  s.  Zulu  King,  stems  and  leafage  of  a  dark 
maroon-red  and  flowers  of  scarlet  hue.  Other 
very  dwarf  Begonias  with  much  larger  flowers 
are  Major  Hope,  Lafayette  and  Triomphe  de 
Lorraine.  You  should  write  to  Messrs.  James 
Veitch  and  Sons,  Chelsea  ;  to  Messrs.  Cannell 
and  Sons,  Swanley ;  or  to  Messrs.  Sutton  and 
Sons,  Reading,  either  of  which  would  be  able 
to  supply  what  you  require. 

Violets  diseased  (E.  C.  Crichton).— The  leaves 
sent  are  affected  by  the  fungus  known  as  Urocystis 
Violje,  which  is  exceedingly  prevalent  this  year.  All  you 
can  do  is  to  pick  off  and  burn  all  the  aifected  leaves, 
ventilate  the  frame  freely  and  continuously,  and  avoid 
much  wetting  overhead  at  the  present  time. 

Siveet  Pea  fop  association  virlth  Golden 
Kldep  ^/f.).— You  could  not  easily  get  a  liner  variety  for 
this  purpose  than  King  Edward  VII.  The  deep  crimson 
flowers  are  profusely  borne  on  healthy,  vigorous  plants, 
and  the  colours  harmonise  grandly.  As  an  annual  for 
placing  between  the  clumps  Godetia  Lady  Albemarle 
would  suit  admirably.  In  no  case  should  the  annuals  be 
nearer  than  3  feet  to  the  Elders.    In  order  to  ensure  the 


brightest  colouring  in  the  latter  it  is  necessary  to  cut  hard 
back  each  season,  as  the  young  shoots  are  far  more 
brilliant  in  hue  than  the  old  ones.  Plants  which  are 
growing  vigorously  and  are  in  a  satisfactory  condition  do 
not  demand  special  feeding.  Please  make  your  question 
re  manuring  more  explicit. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
W^eeping  Roses  In  tubs  (Tyrone).— 

We  consider  that  the  tubs  you  mention  would  be 
large  enough  for,  say,  three  or  four  years,  but 
the  trees  would  ultimately  require  more  root 
space.  Although  you  say  you  experience  less 
heat  in  your  part  of  Ireland  than  we  do  in 
England,  yet  we  fear  you  would  have  some 
difficulty  in  establishing  trees  in  tubs  at  this  late 
season  of  the  year  unless  they  have  previously 
been  grown  in  pots.  In  order  to  meet  with 
success,  the  trees  should  be  put  into  the  tubs  in 
October,  and  then  placed  in  a  sheltered  position 
with  some  protection  around  the  tubs  to  ward 
off  frost  and  also  drought.  Here  they  should 
remain  until  May  or  June,  when  they  could 
safely  be  placed  on  the  steps  that  you  require 
them  for.  If  you  decide  to  run  the  risk  and 
place  the  tubs  on  the  steps  at  once,  we  should 
advise  you  to  shield  the  tubs  from  bright 
sunshine  with  paper  or  similar  material,  so  as 
to  prevent  a  too  rapid  drying  of  the  soil,  as  it  is 
detrimental  to  a  healthy  root  action  to  be 
obliged  to  supply  much  water  to  newly  potted 
or  tubbed  plants. 

Manuping:  Roses  {E.  F.).— It  would 
have  been  best  if  you  could  have  had  some  good 
farmyard  manure  dug  in  ;  but  as  you  say  this 
cannot  be  done  at  all  conveniently,  we  advise 
you  to  give  the  beds  a  dressing  of  bone-meal  at 
once.  About  two  handfuls  per  plant  would  be  a 
fair  supply,  scattering  it  well  about  the  soil  and 
hoeing  it  in  at  once  or  lightly  forking  it  under 
the  soil,  taking  care  not  to  injure  surface  roots. 
Most  of  the  large  Rose-growers  who  advertise  in 
our  columns  supply  a  Rose  food  of  their  own 
manufacture,  and  these  are  good  fertilisers  and 
easy  of  application.  Should  you  elect  to  give 
the  plants  bone  meal  now,  you  could  give  them 
liquid  manure  during  May  and  June,  taking 
care  to  see  that  the  soil  is  moist  before  applying 
the  liquid.  Should  we  have  a  dry  spell  of 
weather  about  that  time,  water  the  plants  the 
day  before  with  plain  water.  A  handy  liquid 
manure  is  made  with  guano  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to 
a  gallon  of  water,  applied  about  once  in  ten 
days.  The  plants  may  have  about  a  gallon 
each.  A  good  useful  manure  to  be  applied  at 
once  is  made  upas  follows :  121b.  of  superphosphate 
of  lime,  101b.  of  kainit  and  lib.  of  sulphate  of  iron. 
Well  mix  and  apply  half  a  pound  to  a  square 
yard,  well  hoeing  it  in.  A  liquid  manure  made 
from  cow-manure  and  soot  could  follow  this  in 
May  and  June. 

Roses  fop  hedg'e  (J'.  B.).— We  think  in  your  case 
the  hedge  should  consist  of  early  and  late  blooming  Eoses ; 
then,  if  planted  alternately,  you  would  have  an  effective 
display  from  June  to  October.  As  the  varieties  we  name 
herewith  are  mostly  vigorous  and  tree-flowering,  we  think 
a  distance  apart  of  2^  feet  to  3  feet  would  be  about  right. 
It  is  advisable  to  give  the  Rosea  some  support,  for  as  a 
rule  the  growths  are  pruned  back  very  little  the  first  year, 
and  some  of  them  would  be  too  slender  to  support  them- 
selves. A  rustic  woodwork  arrangement  looks  nice,  but  if 
this  is  impossible,  then  two  or  three  stout  wires  stretched 
along  the  length  of  the  hedge,  and  supported  with  Oak  posts 
at  intervals  of  5  yards  or  6  yards,  would  be  the  best.  Spread 
out  the  growths,  but  do  not  tie  them  too  rigidly.  A  Hose 
hedge  looks  best  when  it  is  not  too  formally  trained,  aud 
if  the  growths  arch  over  somewhat  they  will  bloom  from 
bottom  to  top.  We  name  below  a  dozen  summer-flowering 
sorts  and  a  dozen  that  will  bloom  in  summer  and  autumn. 
If  you  have  two  of  a  sort  we  advise  you  to  distribute  them 
as  much  as  possible.  Summer-flowering  ;  Flora,  F^licit^ 
PerpiStue,  Bennett's  Seedling,  Blairi  No.  2,  Carmine  Pillar, 
Una,  Anne  of  Geierstein,  Lady  Penzance,  Crimson  Rambler, 
Electra,  Blush  Rambler  and  Tausendschon.  Summer  and 
autumn  flowering:  Mme.  Alfred  Carriere,  Longworth 
Rambler,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Griiss  an  Teplitz,  Francois 
Crousse,  Aimee  Vibert,  Fellenberg,  Zepherin  Drouhin, 
Mme.  I.  Pereire,  Cbesbunt  Hybrid,  Gloire  de  Dijon  and 
Blanc  Double  de  Courbet.  To  run  over  the  cliff  some  of 
the  wichuraiana  Roses  would  be  best,  The  following  are 
excellent :  The  type,  wichuraiana  alba,  Alberic  Batbier. 
Hiawatha,  Lady  Gay,  Paradise,  Elise  Eobichon,  Joseph 
Billard  and  Jersey  Beauty. 


184 


THE     GARDEN. 


[April  10,  1909. 


Foliage    of    Rose     Nlphetos    cupllng-    (F. 

U'ilki/isc'i).  —The  foliage  sent  shows  signs  of  having  suffered 
either  from  a  chill  through  a  draught  of  cold  air  coming 
into  tiie  house  or  through  over-watering.  These  Tea  Ruses 
are  very  susceptible  to  chills,  although  they  can  stand  a 
deal  of  cold  if  brought  up  to  it  from  the  commencement. 
Probably  the  points  of  the  shoots  dropping  out  is  the 
result  of  a  very  tiny  maggot  eating  into  them,  or  it  may  I)e, 
as  suggested  above,  the  result  of  too  much  water  at  the 
roots.  Try  and  give  the  Rose  a  little  more  warmth  and  be 
very  careful  how  you  admit  air,  especially  at  the  end  of 
the  house  where  the  plant  is  growing.  When  applying 
water  see  that  it  is  chilled  to  the  same  temperature  as  the 
house,  as  cold  water  frequently  has  had  very  injurious 
effects  upon  growing  Roses. 

Rose  hedse  (•/.  //-  B.).—An  article  appeared  on 
this  subject  in  our  issue  of  February  27  (page  KH),  and  a 
reply  to  a  correspondent  on  the  same  matter  in  our  issue 
of  Murch  6  (page  12n).  Tt  is  not  too  late  to  plant  the  pro- 
posed hedge,  especially  as  the  weather  has  retarded 
vegetation  so  wn-siderably.  We  advise  you  to  have  the 
soil  trenched  as  quickly  as  possible,  incorporating  some 
good  manure  liberally.  Procure  good  strong  plants  of 
what  you  elect  to  use  and  cut  them  back  to  about 
1  foot  or  18  inches  of  their  base.  You  could  obtain  a 
quicker  effect  by  planting  pot-grown  plants,  especially 
such  as  have  been  potted  up  from  the  open  ground  and 
grown  in  their  pots  one  season.  These  are  infinitely 
superior  to  the  long-shooted  ;,'rafted  plants  that  are 
grown  for  the  best  part  of  the  year  under  glass.  Much 
plants  as  these  would  not  require  pruning,  and  as  they 
run  from  4  feet  to  '"•  feet  high,  you  would  have  a  hedge  at 
once. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Forced  TuUps  (F.  W.  B.)— In  the  first 
place,  in  order  to  have  forced  Tulips  dwarf,  a 
very  important  matter  is  the  selection  of  varie- 
ties, and  florists  depend  to  a  large  extent  upon 
the  different  forms  of  the  Due  van  Thol  section. 
Next,  the  pretty  pots  that  you  see  with  flowers 
all  equal  in  height  and  condition  are  made  up, 
and  have  not  been  grown  in  the  pots  as  sold. 
They  are  potted  or  put  into  shallow  boxes  in 
the  autumn  and  stood  outside  covered  with  ashes 
till  the  roots  are  active.  Then  they  are  brought 
on  in  heat,  and  when  the  forwardest  are 
sufficiently  advanced  they  are  pulled  out  and  the 
pots  made  up  as  you  have  seen  them. 

Tpeatment    of   Albepta     magrna 

{Franciscxia). — In  order  to  succeed  in  its  culture. 
Alberta  magna  requires  a  structure  kept  some- 
what warmer  than  an  ordinary  greenhouse.  It 
is  a  native  of  Natal,  and  therefore  comes  from 
a  warmer  district  than  many  South  African 
plants  which  we  cultivate  in  our  gardens,  most  of 
which  are  from  Cape  Colony.  During  the  winter 
a  minimum  night  temperature  of  45'  will  be 
required,  and  that  means  a  rise  of  10"  or  so  during 
the  day.  Now,  of  course,  the  house  will  be 
warmer.  The  potting  compost  mentioned  is  very 
suitable  for  the  Alberta.  The  only  cultural 
directions  are  to  water  when  necessary,  while  an 
occasional  syringing  will  be  helpful  ;  in  fact, 
treat  it  at  this  season  much  like  an  Indian 
Azalea. 
Treatment  of  Fuchsias  (F.  W.  B.). 

Your  Fuchsias  must  now  be  brought  out  of  the 
cellar  and  placed  in  the  greenhouse.  .'\ny  that 
are  at  all  straggling  in  shape  should  have  their 
branches  shortened  back  in  order  to  obtain  good 
plants.  Then  the  roots  must  be  watered,  but 
not  too  heavily  at  first.  Young  shoots  will  soon 
make  their  appearance  over  the  entire  plants, 
and  when  they  are  about  half  an  inch  long  the 
plants  must  be  repotted,  taking  away  a  good  deal 
of  the  old  soil.  After  being  repotted  an  occasional 
syringing  will  be  beneficial,  but  water  at  the 
roots  should  be  carefully  given  ;  at  all  events,  till 
they  have  taken  possession  of  the  new  soil.  A 
mixture  of  loam,  leaf-mould  and  sand  is  very 
suitable  for  Fuchsias.  In  this  way  you  should 
have  a  good  display  of  flowers  during  the  summer, 
at  which  season  an  occasional  dose  of  liquid 
manure  will  be  helpful. 

Llllum  HaPPlsll  (Mrs.  Bowman).— It  the  plants 
are  much  drawn  and  no  llower-buda  appear  in  the  tips  of 
the  shoots,  we  can  only  conclude  that  the  bullis  are  not 
sulllcientl]'  strong  for  flowering.  You  do  not  say  whether 
the  pots  of  buUia  are  new  or  old,  and  only  very  rarely 
indeed  do  these  Lilies  produce  a  llower  In  the  second  year. 
If  no  llowcrs  are  visible,  you  had  belter  plant  them  out 
in  a  shady  place  in  tlie  open.  If  you  can  give  fuller  par- 
ticulars, such  as  when  purchased  and  potted  and  height 


of  plant,  we  may  possibly  further  assist  you.  'I'he  reply 
/>•  Asparagus  bed  is  given  on  page  136  of  Thk  tiAiti'EN  for 
March  -Jn. 

KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

BpoccoU  and  fPOSt  (S.  (7.).— We  feel 
almost  inclined  to  congratulate  you  on  having 
saved  some  of  your  Broocolis  from  the  frost.  In 
the  London  district,  which  is  a  very  large 
one  indeed,  the  harm  done  to  both  Broccolis  and 
all  the  winter  greens  has  been  of  a  most  unusual 
and  destructive  kind.  Really  in  some  places  all 
winter  Brassioit  has  been  wiped  out.  Many 
gardeners  do  not  recollect  so  disastrous  a  winter. 
No  doubt  your  earlier  Broccolis  Winter  White  and 
Leamington  suffered  most  with  you  because  they 
were  full  of  sap^just  at  the  time  the  frost  was  so 
severe.  That  you  managed  to  save  your  August- 
planted  Model,  Defiance  and  Lite  Queen  so  well 
shows  the  advantage  of  making  later  sowings  and 
plantings  of  these  late-heading  varieties  than  is 
usually  the  case.  You  do  not  say  whether  you 
laid  your  earlier  Broccolis  on  tlieir  sides,  putting 
soil  over  the  prostrate  stems,  as  is  often  done. 
So  treated  and  with  some  Fern  or  light  straw 
litter  shaken  over  the  breadth  Broccolis  often 
escape  injury,  although  the  heads  may  be  rather 
smaller  when  formed  than  if  the  plants  were 
erect.  It  is,  as  a  rule,  the  pith  of  the  stems 
which  suffers  most  from  frost. 

Mushpoom  spawn  (S.  .Smith).  —  Try  John  V. 
Barter,  Limited,  Mushroom  growers,  Napier  Road, 
Wembley  R  .S.(.»  ,  London.  Vou  should  try  their  shilling 
book  on  Mushroom  growing. 

Winter  Tupnlps  blttep  (Salop).— Ho  fault  can 
be  found  with  your  method  of  culture.  Winter  Turnips 
do  not  improve  in  iiuality  or  flavour  with  age,  and  yours 
are  now  getting  old  They  are  also  about  to  start  into  new 
growth,  and  this,  with  the  past  inclement  weather,  will 
account  for  the  flavour  deteriorating.  We  suggest  that 
the  quality  and  sweetness  of  the  Turnip  would  he  retained 
for  a  longer  time  if  they  were  stored  for  winter  in  clamps 
of  straw  and  soil  out  of  doors,  where  they  would  be  safe 
from  the  changes  and  inclemency  of  wintry  weather.  Tiie 
variety  mentioned  is  excellent :  we  have  grown  it  for  many 
years. 

FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Feptilislng:  Peaches  and 
NectaPlnes  (S.  G.  JV.).— Fertilisation  of  the 
flowersof  these  trees shouldoommence immediately 
th3  pollen  is  freed  from  the  sheath  which  protects 
it  on  the  anthers.  When  this  has  taken  place 
the  pollen  can  easily  be  seen,  but,  if  in  doubt, 
touch  the  anthers  of  the  flowers  with  the 
hands,  when  the  pollen  will  adhere  to  them. 
Syringing  the  trees  should  be  stopped  for  a 
fortnight  after  the  trees  open  their  flowers,  after 
which  it  may  be  resumed,  as  most  of  the  fruit 
will  be  set  by  that  time.  Yes,  the  trees  should 
receive  a  good  soaking  of  clear  water  before  the 
flowers  open  and  again  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  set, 
which  it  will  be  in  about  a  fortnight. 

Is  it  possible  to  gpovf  Muscat 
Gpapes  without  any  fipe-heat  at 

aU  ?  (A.  B.  C). — A  gardener  who  understands 
his  business  may  grow  them  fairly  well  by  con- 
serving and  utilising  all  the  sun-heat  during  the 
spring  and  summer  months ;  but  it  is  quite 
impossible  even  for  the  best  Grape-grower  to  grow 
them  to  the  size  and  perfection  possible  with  the 
aid  of  fire-heat.  Your  only  hope  of  success  lies 
in  the  matter  of  careful  and  intelligent  ventila- 
tion, never  giving  too  much  air  to  lower  unduly 
the  temperature  at  any  time.  Avoid  giving 
front  air  at  all,  at  least  until  the  first  or  second 
week  in  May,  and  then  only  very  sparingly, 
giving  back  air  instetid  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
keep  the  temperature  from  rising  too  high.  The 
Vines  will  stand  from  75°  to  80°  Fahr.  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  with  air  on.  All  the  air  should 
be  taken  ofl'  at  3.30  p.m.,  having  previously 
syringed  the  vinery  walls  and  borders,  but  not 
the  Vines.  This  will  give  a  grand  moist  heat  of 
from  SO"  to  85°  for  a  couple  of  hours  from  sun- 
heat  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  Vines  will 
luxuriate  in  it.  You  had  better  reserve  your 
fire-heat  for  cold  days  and  cold  nights  to  keep 
the  air  of  the  vinery  sweet  and  on  the  move. 


Leave  a  chink  of  air  on   the  back  ventilators  all 
night  while  the  weather  is  warm. 

Bpanches  of  Peach  tpees  dying-  (T.  X.  II.  w.). 
It  is  not  an  uncommon  occurrence  among  old  Peach  trees 
for  branches  to  die  off,  and  nobody  has  ever  been  able  to 
give  a  satisfactory  reason  for  their  doing  so ;  but  very 
rarely  indeed  do  they  die  on  young  trees.  We  presume 
that  the  trees  have  not  been  subjected  to  an  overdose  of 
any  powerful  insecticide,  or  received  an  extra  heavy 
dressing  of  artificial  manure  during  the  past  summer  or 
winter,  or  that  the  barii  of  the  branches  has  been  injured 
by  any  chance.  Any  of  these  causes  would  account  for 
the  damage.  In  any  case,  the  only  way  of  bringing  the 
trees  baclt  to  health  again  is  by  the  encouragement  of 
healthier  and  larger  root  growth.  This  could  best  be 
done  by  replanting  the  trees  in  new  Peach  soil ;  but 
it  is  too  late  to  do  this  now— autumn  is  the  best  time  for 
that— although  it  is  not  too  late  to  take  a  layer  of  the  top 
soil  off  as  far  as  the  roots  extend  and  deep  enough  to 
reach  a  good  body  of  surface  roots,  replacing  the  old  soil 
taken  off  by  a  layer  (<  inches  deep  of  the  following :  To 
one  barrow-load  of  turfy  loam  add  a  peck  of  old  mortar 
rubble  broken  small,  half  a  peck  of  quicklime  and  half  a 
gallon  of  bone-meal,  treading  it  down  firmly.  The  trees 
should  receive  a  thorough  watering  before  the  new  soil 
is  added.  In  the  course  of  the  summer  this  new  soil 
would  be  permeated  fully  with  new,  active  roots,  and 
could  not  help  but  infuse  new  vigour  and  better  health  to 
the  trees.  

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Pappakeet  fop  Inspection  (Bn-iaivoml).—T\ie 
bird  died  of  congestion  of  the  lungs,  and  little  can  be  done 
for  birds  which  have  once  contracted  this  disease.  The 
only  remedy  is  to  administer  aconite  on  the  flrst  signs  of 
cold.  As  this  is  a  poison,  some  chemists  will  not  sell  it 
without  a  doctor's  certificate.  In  this  case  get  aconite 
tabloids  and  dissolve  two  or  three  in  the  bird's  drinking 
water.  If  the  bird  is  big  enough,  these  should  be  ad- 
ministered in  the  form  of  pills,  but  this  it  is  impossible  to 
do  with  small  birds. 

The  climate  of  South  Devon  (Flora).— \a  a 
matter  of  so  much  delicacy  and  importance  as  the 
choosing  of  a  home,  we  hesitate  to  take  the  responsibility 
of  advising  you.  We  can  only  say  that,  provided  on 
further  enquiry  you  And  the  conditions  of  climate,  Ac, 
not  inimical  to  health,  you  will  be  sure  to  find  them 
favourable  for  gardening. 

Seakale,  and  paint  fop  painting'  g-apden 
fpames  (Eniiuirer).—r\ie  best  Seakale  is  Lily  White. 
The  best  paint  to  use  for  garden  frames  is  oil  and  white 
lead  paint.  This  can  be  had  in  any  colour  ready  mixed 
for  use  from  ironmongers  or  oil  and  colour  merchants.  It 
will  require  thinning  down  occasionally,  and  turpentine 
and  linseed  oil  are  the  best  to  use  for  this  purpose.  It  is 
easily  applied  by  a  careful  man  with  an  ordinary  paint- 
brush. 

Pond  disfiguped  by  floating  nreed  (Mrs. 
E.  J.). — Vou  cannot  do  better  than  use  copper  sulphate 
for  your  pond.  Calculate  the  quantity  of  water  in  the 
pond  and  use  one  part  of  copper  sulphate  to  every  million 
parts  of  water.  Mix  the  sulphate  in  a  little  water  and 
syringe  it  over  the  pond.  Another  way  to  use  the  material 
is  to  place  it  in  a  canvas  bag  and  trail  it  through  the 
water  until  dissolved.  It  will  not  injure  the  plants  at  the 
strensth  mentioned,  but  it  is  uncertain  how  it  will  affect 
the  fish. 

Weed  Infesting  a  lavtrn  (S.  Slee m.'^on).— The 
weed  which  infests  your  lawn  is  Ajuga  reptans.  Your 
best  plan  to  cope  with  it  will  be  to  obtain  Lawn  Sand 
and  dress  the  lawn  with  that.  When  ordering  the  sand, 
send  the  dimensions  of  the  lawn  and  ask  for  the  correct 
quantity  and  directions  for  use.  It  is  most  efltcaolous  if 
applied  in  dry  weather.  After  its  use  the  grass  will 
probably  turn  brown,  but  it  will  recover  quickly ;  the 
weeds  will  be  killed.  Bare  patches  will  occur  where  the 
weed  is  killed,  and  these  ought  to  be  pricked  over  with  a 
fork  in  damp  weather  and  ^'rass  seed  sown.  .Should  any 
of  the  weed  be  noticed  at  a  later  date,  a  second  dressing 
of  sand  may  be  given. 

Infopmatlon  about  gapden  plan  (Trefoil).- 
Taking  your  queries  srriatim  we  consider  :  (1)  That  the 
aspect  is  favourable.  (2)  There  is  no  evergreen  or  live 
hedge  fence  to  compare  with  the  common  seedling  green- 
leaved  Holly,  planting  a  double  alternate  row  and  em- 
ploying' plants  about  18  inches  high.  Such  a  fence  could 
also  be  wired  round  at  the  same  time.  Vou  might  plant 
Corsican  Pine  and  Lawson's  Cj-press  to  break  the  view  and 
assist  the  surroundings,  while  such  trees  and  Bhrul-)S  as 
Almonds,  scarlet  Thorns,  Lilac,  Slock  Orange,  Guelder 
Rose  ancl  Garrya  would  be  serviceable  about  the  sides  of 
the  garden.  (3)  As  the  flower  garden  is  small  and  you 
have  a  good  supply  of  Roses,  you  cannot  do  better  tlian 
plant  beds  of  these  with  Lilies  for  autumn  ertect,  and 
Daffodils  for  flowering  in  spring.  The  pergola  should  be 
planted  with  Rambler  Roses  and  Clematises,  but  as  this  is  so 
near  the  house  we  think  you  had  better  defer  its  planting 
till  the  building  is  completed.  (4)  You  might  plant 
espalier  fruit  trees  between  tlie  tennis  lawn  and  vegetable 
garden,  and  bush  pyramid  Apples  in  other  places.  If  you 
plant  these  latter  in  a  sort  of  border  line,  say,  4  feet  from 
the  path,  you  might  further  indulge  in  a  herbaceous  border 
at  that  point.  You  cannot  do  much  in  this  way,  however, 
till  the  house  is  erected. 

Names  of  plants.— -t.  fi  — The  Cyclamen  seems  to 
be  a  small-flowered  variety  of  the  sweet-scented  Persian 
Cyclamen,  seeds  of  which  can  be  obtained  from  Messrs. 

.Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading. A.  />'.— 1,  Thuya  occiden- 

talis  ;  '2,  Picea  excelea  aurea. 


Supplement  to    THE   GARDEN,   April  lot/i,   1909. 


NEW    PYRETHRUM    '' LANGPORT    SCARLET." 

(KELWAY    &    SON.) 


Hudson  &  Keayns,  Ltd.,  Ptinlcrs,  London,  S.B. 


GARDEN. 


-^»=^''( 


^^ 


No.  1952.-VOL.  LXXIII. 


April   17,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


The   Six  Most  Poph- 
LAK    Orchids    and 
How  TO  Gkow  Them 
Prizes  for  Readers 
Notes  of  the  Week 
Forthcoming  events 
Koyal    Horticultural 

Society 

Prunus  subhirtella  . . 

COBBEgPONSEHOB 

Narcissi  diseased    . . 

Late-flowering  Chry- 
santhemums . .     . . 

ArtiUcial  manures  . . 

Banding  Apple  trees 
Letters     from     our 

Headers  abroad 
Riviera  notes       . .     . . 
II^UIT  Gabden 

How   to   grow   fruit 
trees  in  pots  . .     . . 

Fruit  notes       . .     . . 

Kitchen  Garden 
Vegetable  culture   . . 

Floweb  Oabden 
Shortia  galacifolia  .. 
Planting  out  Carna- 
tions   

Should     alpines    be 
manured  ?      . .     . . 


186 


Rose  Oabden 
New  Hybrid  Tea  Rose 
Rhea  Reid      . .     . . 


191 


Gabdenins  foe  Besinners 

Garden  work  week  by 
week        192 

How  to  grow  good 
French  Beans       . .    192 

Spring  propagation 
of  tricolour  and 
variegated  foliaged 
Zonal  Pelargo- 
niums (Geraniums)    192 

Potting  tuberous 
Begonias 193 

The  Town  Gabden  ..    193 

GABDENina  OF  THE  WEEK 

For  the  South  and 
South  Midlands    ..    194 

For  the  North  and 
North  Midlands  ..    194 

New  plants 194 

A.II8WEB8     10     COBBB- 
8F0IIDEHIB 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  195 

Rose  garden      . .  195 

Greenhouse       ..     ..  195 

Fruit  garden     ..     ..  195 

Miscellaneous  ..     ..  196 


190     SOCIETIES 


196 


IliLUSTRATIONS. 

Varieties  of  Disa  crasslcornis  in  South  Africa    . .     . .  187 

Shortia  galacifolia  in  a  Lincolnshire  garden 1S9 

Part  of  the  Orchid  house  in  Foochow     190 

In  a  garden  in  China  (the  German  Consulate)     . .     . .  190 

The  new  Rose  Rhea  Reid 191 

Spring  propagation  of  Zonal  Pelargoniums  . .     . ,    192, 193 


BDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

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feature,  tmd,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
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Offices :  W,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


THE  SIX  MOST  POPULAR 
ORCHIDS  AND  HOW  TO 
GROW    THEM. 

{First    Prize    Essay.) 

THE  six  most  popular  Orchids  are,  I 
think,  Calanthe  Veitehii,  Cattleya 
Trianae,  Coelogyne  oristata,  Cypripe- 
dium  insigne,  Dendrobium  nobile  and 
Odontoglossum  crispum,  all  of  which 
are  well  within  the  compass  of  an  amateur,  who 
can  perhaps  only  devote  limited  time  at  each 
end  of  the  day  to  his  hobby,  as  they  are  easily 
managed  if  care  be  taken  to  observe  certain 
points  in  their  cultivation.  Orchids  are  best 
grown  in  structures  to  themselves  over  a  base  of 
moisture-retaining  material  such  as  shingle,  where 
they  are  near  to  the  glass  in  a  good  light.  If 
grown  with  other  plants  the  species  should  be 
grouped  together,  as  they  are  more  easily  attended 
to  and  the  results  are  consequently  better. 

During  growth  an  atmosphere  freely  charged 
with  moisture  and  always  a  moving  air  should 
be  kept  about  them,  avoiding  draughts.  It  is 
important  to  secure  well-matured  growths  to 
ensure  successful  flowering.  This  is  a  matter 
which  must  be  kept  in  view  the  whole  season, 
and  cannot  be  attained  by  forcing  a  sappy 
growth  at  one  part  of  the  season,  then  giving 
a  baking  at  another,  but  by  careful  attention  to 
light  and  air  at  all  times. 

For  watering  and  spraying  use  only  clear  rain- 
water, as  a  deposit  of  lime  or  any  other  sediment 
on  the  leaves  is  very  injurious. 

How  TO  Grow  Them. 

Calanthe  Veitehii  is  one  of  the  most  charming 
Orchids,  and  flowering  as  it  does  in  December  and 
January  is  always  welcome.  Early  in  March 
the  pseudo-bulbs  begin  their  growth,  and  by  the 
time  this  is  visible  the  whole  compost  should  be 
removed  from  their  roots,  which  will  be  quite 
dry.  Care  must  be  exercised  so  as  not  to  injure 
the  bud,  and  make  a  critical  inspection  before 
repotting  to  see  that  there  are  no  scale  or  other 
insects  about  them.  Procure  clean  pots  6  inches 
or  7  inches  in  diameter,  place  about  IJ  inches  of 
crooks  in  the  bottom  and  cover  these  with  moss. 
The  compost  should  consist  of  good  fibrous  loam 
with  one-third  dried  cow-manure  and  some  coarse 
sand,  adding  a  sprinkling  of  bone-meal.  Retain 
the  tuft  of  old  roots  and  place  the  pseudo-bulbs  so 
that  the  base  is  only  just  below  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  and  fill  the  pats  to  within  half  an  inch  of  the 
top.  The  old  roots  hold  the  bulbs  in  position  until 
they  are  rigidly  anchored  with  the  complement 
of  new  roots,  or  a  short  stick  must  be  provided  to 
ensure  stability.  Stand  the  plants  on  a  shelf  in  a 
stove  temperature,  water  with  discretion  in  the 
early  stages,  and  as  the  roots  extend  through  the 
compost  liberal  supplies  must  be  given.  Shade 
from  direct  sunshine,  and  when  the  pots  are  full 
of  roots  apply  diluted  manure  water  until  the 


foliage  shows  signs  of  dying  ofl',  when  less  water 
will  be  needed,  and  eventually,  when  the  leaves 
are  gone  and  the  flowers  over,  the  soil  should  be 
quite  dry.  When  in  flower  the  Calanthe  can 
with  advantage  be  placed  in  a  cooler  and  drier 
place. 

Cattleya  Triance. — To  grow  this  Orchid  well 
it  is  best  to  have  a  receptacle  which  will  admit 
of  free  aeration  of  the  compost,  pots  having 
perforated  sides  or  baskets  being  suitable.  The 
size  of  the  receptacle  should  be  in  accordance 
with  the  size  of  the  plant.  Provide  ample 
drainage  to  ensure  the  quick  passage  of  water 
through  the  compost,  which  ought  to  be  made  up 
of  best  fibroua  peat  minus  the  finer  particles,  or 
Osmunda  fibre  and  sphagnum,  with  some  broken 
crooks  and  charcoal  intermixed.  When  potting 
keep  the  base  of  the  pseudo-bulb  rather  above 
the  rim  of  the  pot,  making  the  compost  up  to  it. 
The  plant  flowers  about  February,  and  after 
flowering  is  the  best  time  either  for  repotting  or 
redressing  with  new  compost.  The  temperature 
ought  not  to  fall  lower  than  65°,  with  abundance 
of  moisture  in  the  atmosphere.  Water  carefully 
through  a  rose  when  first  potted ;  but  later,  when 
the  compost  has  become  settled,  it  is  better  to  dip 
the  pot  into  a  a  pail  or  tub  of  water  if  possible. 
When  growth  is  complete  the  supply  of  water 
should  be  restricted  to  encourage  a  long  period 
of  rest,  but  the  drying  must  not  be  carried  to 
excess  in  the  case  of  this  Cattleya,  or  shrivelling 
of  the  pseudo-bulbs  will  ensue,  this  being  very 
undesirable.  Scale  will  affect  the  Cattleya,  as 
also  will  thrips  when  the  leaves  are  young,  and 
to  eradicate  these  sponge  carefully  with  soapy 
water. 

Caiogyne  cristata. — This  Orchid  while  grow-' 
ing  is  best  suited  in  a  temperature  a  little  lower 
than  is  necessary  for  the  Cattleya,  but  when 
growth  is  complete  and  the  plant  resting  it  must 
be  removed  to  cooler  and  drier  conditions.  The 
flowering  time  is  late  January  and  February,  and 
in  late  February  or  early  March  is  the  time  for 
repotting  or  top-dressing.  Deep  pans  are  the 
best  receptacles.  Provide  plenty  of  drainage  and 
a  good  compost  of  turfy  loam,  Osmunda  fibre, 
some  sphagnum  and  sharp  sand,  well  mixed 
together.  Ccelogyne  cristata  is  impatient  of 
stagnation,  but  must  be  liberally  supplied  with 
water  while  growing,  and  a  pleasantly  humid 
atmosphere  must  also  be  maintained.  When 
resting  it  must  not  be  dried  too  severely,  as  this 
has  a  weakening  effect,  and  on  no  account  must 
the  pseudo-bulbs  be  allowed  to  shrivel.  The 
Orchid  scale  at  times  infests  this  plant ;  it  should 
be  carefully  removed  and  the  plant  sponged  with 
a  soapy  solution  afterwards. 

Cypripedium  insigne. — There  are  few  collec- 
tions of  plants  under  glass  which  do  not  include 
a  few  plants  of  this  Cypripedium.  For  the 
amateur  with  a  greenhouse  only  it  is  a  useful 
subject,  being  well  grown  in  the  cool  house. 
It  requires  plenty  of  moisture,  therefore  it  is 
necessary  to  provide  ample  drainage,  and  the 
compost  must  be  made  up  of  the  best  material 
of  its  kind  ;  this  should  consist  of  two  parts 
fibrous  loam,  one  part  peat  and  one  part  leaf- 
mould,  with  a  sprinkling  of  coarse  sand.  When 
potting,  do  not  raise  the  plaats  above  the  pots  at 
all,  but  rather  keep  them  a  little  below  the  same, 
as  with  ordinary  plants.     When  the  plants  are 


186 


THE    GAEDEN. 


(April  17,  1909. 


established,  a  top-dressing  only  may  be  necessary 
for  a  few  years ;  this  is  managed  by  removing  the 
upper  portion  of  the  compost  and  renewing  with 
fresh  material.  Shade  from  direct  sunshine  and 
maintain  moisture  about  them  during  the  grow- 
ing season.  In  winter  they  must  be  kept  moist, 
as,  being  evergreen  and  having  no  store  of 
nutriment  (as  is  the  case  with  thick-stemmed 
Orchids),  they  rely  on  root  action  the  whole  year ; 
but  naturally  such  abundant  supplies  will  not  be 
required  after  growth  is  complete. 

Deiidrobmm  nobile. — Perhaps  this  Dendrobium 
is  the  most  easily  managed  of  Orchids  ;  it  is  best 
grown  in  teak  Orchid  baskets  suspended  from  the 
roof,  and  the  rooting  medium  should  consist  of 
good  peat  or  Osmunda  fibre,  fresh  sphagnum,  with 
a  few  small  nodules  of  charcoal  intermixed.  The 
plants  can  be  raised  a  little  above  the  edge  of 
the  baskets,  and  with  an  annual  top-dressing 
this  will  last  them  for  years.  The  old  stems 
should  be  removed  ;  at  least,  when  they  become 
dry.  This  subject  requires  a  stove  temperature 
and  a  humid  atmosphere  during  the  growing 
season,  and  when  watering  it  is  much  the  best 
way  to  dip  the  basket ;  this  plan  thoroughly 
moistens  the  whole  of  the  compost.  As  the 
season's  growth  approaches  maturity,  the  water 
supplies  should  be  gradually  reduced  until  com- 
plete, the  plants  being  kept  dry  to  ensure  a 
thorough  rest,  and  at  the  same  time  remove 
them  to  a  cooler  place,  say,  the  greenhouse,  for 
a  couple  of  months.  A  little  moisture  may  be 
required  to  prevent  undue  shrivelling ;  but  if  the 
growth  is  properly  matured  this  is  unlikely  to 
take  place  under  the  cooler  conditions.  After  a 
good  rest  the  plants  will  quickly  burst  into 
bloom  on  being  introduced  into  warm  and  moist 
surroundings  again. 

Odontogloisum  cri»pum. — Here  we  have  one  of 
the  most  graceful  and  beautiful  of  Orchids,  which 
is  well  worth  the  necessary  care  to  grow  it  well. 
Provide  clean  pots  half  filled  with  crooks  to 
ensure  the  quick  passage  of  water,  for  this 
subject  abhors  anything  savouring  of  sourness. 
The  best  rooting  medium  is  fibrous  peat  or 
Osmunda  fibre,  chopped  sphagnum  and  crushed 
charcoal.  In  potting,  the  base  of  the  pseudo- 
bulbs  should  be  rather  above  the  rim  of  the  pot ; 
mound  the  compost  up  to  it,  finishing  with 
heads  of  living  moss.  The  temperature  best 
suited  for  growing  this  is  what  is  usually  main- 
tained for  the  greenhouse ;  but  in  summer  this 
should  be  rendered  as  cool  as  possible  by  means 
of  a  medium  shading  raised  above  the  glass  to 
allow  a  circulation  of  air  between  the  two.  The 
shading  is  much  the  best  if  removable,  for  the 
Odontoglossum  revels  in  a  direct  light,  but  sun- 
shine must  be  obscured.  Let  the  plants  be  well 
up  to  the  glass,  keep  moisture  about  them  con- 
tinually, and  twice  a  day  the  plants  should  be 
lightly  sprayed  with  rain-water  and  in  hot 
weather  more  frequently.  Keep  the  compost 
always  moist.  This  plant  flowers  at  almost 
any  time,  and  care  must  be  taken  that  slugs  do 
not  attack  the  rising  scape.  If  the  foregoing 
treatment  be  observed  carefully.  It  is  impossible 
for  thrips  to  attack  the  plants. 

Edwin  Platt. 

The  Gardens,  Borden  Wood,  Liphook,  Hants. 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 

MARCH   COMPETITION.— AWARDS. 
Ik  this  competition  readers  were  asked  to  name 
the  six  most  popular  Orchids  and  how  to  grow 
them.     The  prizes  are  awarded  as  follows  : 

First  prize  of  four  guineas  to  Mr.  Edwin  Platt, 
The  Gardens,  Borden  Wood,  Liphook,  Hants. 

Secondprizeof  two  guineas  to  Mr.  T.  Bones, jun., 
46,  High  Street,  Cheshunt,  Herts. 

Third  prize  of  one  guinea  to  Mr.  G.  Cope, 
48,  Umberslade  Road,  Selby  Oak. 

Fourth  prize  of  half-a-guinea  to  Mr.  C.  W. 
Caulfield,  7,  Fetherstone  Road,  Stanford-le- 
Hope,  Essex. 


This  competition  was  evidently  a  very  popular 
one,  and  proved  that  Orchid  culture  is  well  under- 
stood by  the  majority  of  gardeners. 

In  comparing  the  essays  sent  in,  we  are  induced 
to  make  a  few  comments  which  may  be  of  service 
to  future  competitors.  In  the  first  place,  many 
of  the  writers  used  the  terms  species  and  variety 
as  if  the  two  words  were  synonymous,  the  result, 
in  some  cases  at  least,  being  most  confusing. 
One  or  two  otherwise  good  and  practical  essays 
suSered  severely  by  the  constant  repetition  of 
some  pet  word  of  the  writer,  more  particularly 
the  word  "should."  Nearly  all  writers  spoke 
of  fumigating  for  the  destruction  of  insect  pests ; 
but  vaporising  is  a  much  safer  remedy  and  is 
generally  employed  in  Orchid  culture.  Many 
essayists  named  six  genera,  and  then  went  on  to 
name  numerous  species  and  varieties,  so  that  far 
more  than  six  were  dealt  with. 

The  essays  from  the  following  are  very  highly 
commended  by  the  judges :  W.  Briscoe,  Bear 
Place,  Twyford,  Berks  ;  T.  Varndell,  Shendish 
Park  Gardens,  Hemel  Hempsted,  Herts  ;  L.  A. 
Taylor,  26,  Natal  Road,  Streatham,  S.W.  ; 
W.  F.  Rowles,  Ickworth  Gardens,  Bury  St. 
Edmunds ;  E.  G.  Extence,  3,  South  Terrace, 
Redlands,  Bristol ;  H.  Rowles,  8,  Minster 
Terrace,  Partridge  Green,  Sussex  ;  F.  W. 
Johnson,  High  Street,  Boston  Spa  ;  W.  Bond, 
46,  Owenite  Street,  Abbey  Wood,  Kent ;  John 
Botley,  Scarletts  Park,  Twyford,  Berks  ;  W.  L. 
Lavender,  Waltham  Manor  Gardens,  Twyford, 
Berks ;  W.  Waterton,  Heath  Farm  House, 
Watford  ;  and  Captain  Traherne,  Muirburn, 
Strathaven,  N.B. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

April  20. — Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers,  &c.  National  Auricula  and 
Primula  Society's  Show,  1 — 6.  Lecture,  3  p.m., 
by  Mr.  Eric  Drabble,  D.Se. ,  on  "Pansies." 
Admission  2s.  6d.  Royal  Horticultural  Hall, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster.  Devon  Daffodil 
Society's  Show  (two  days). 

April  22.— Midland  Daffodil  Society's  Exhibi- 
tion (two  days). 

April  28. — Darlington  Horticultural  Society's 
Spring  Show. 

Royal    Hopticultupal    Society.— 

Attention  has  been  drawn  to  the  possibility  of 
misunderstanding  arising  from  the  use  of  the 
word  "unrestricted"  in  Classes  1,  A  and  B  in 
the  Orchid  division  at  the  Temple  Show.  It 
must  therefore  be  clearly  and  fully  understood 
that  the  word  is  governed  by  Rule  4,  which 
gives  200  square  feet  as  the  maximum.  In  other 
words.  Classes  1,  A  and  E  are  unrestricted  in 
size  only  so  long  as  they  do  not  exceed  the 
200  square  feet  permitted  by  the  rule. — W. 
WiLKS,  Secretary. 

Gapdeneps'    Royal    Benevolent 

Institution. — The  executive  of  the  Liverpool 
Auxiliary  met  on  the  3rd  inst.  to  do  honour  to 
their  comrade,  Mr.  J.  S.  Dickson,  formerly  of 
the  firm  of  ilessrs.  Dicksons,  Chester,  who  is 
leaving  the  neighbourhood  to  commence  business 
in  Oxfordshire.  Mr.  C.  A.  Young  presided  and, 
in  proposing  the  health  of  their  guest,  referred  to 
the  general  regret  of  the  committee  in  losing  their 
esteemed  comrade.  Reference  was  made  to  the 
marked  ability  and  to  the  genial  manner  of  their 
guest,  and  to  his  earnest  work  on  behalf  of  the 
institution,  which  had  endeared  him  to  the 
committee.  The  toast  was  accompanied  by  a 
small  gift  as  a  mark  of  their  esteem.  Mr. 
Dickson,  in  his  reply,  stated  that  it  was  a  wrench 
to  break  away  from  a  firm  which  his  grand- 
father had  started,  in  which  his  father  had 
contributed  largely  in  building  to  its  high 
traditions,  and  in  which  he  had  given  thirty- 
three  years  to  the  best  of  his  ability.  It  was  with 
deep  regret  that  he  had  to  sever  his  connexion  with 


this  auxiliary,  by  which  he  had  gained  many 
friends,  with  whom  it  was  a  delight  to  meet  and 
transact  its  business. 

Metpopolitan  Public  Gapdens.— 

The  twenty-sixch  annual  report  of  the  Metro- 
politan Gardens  Association,  of  which  the  Earl 
of  Meath  is  chairman  and  hon.  treasurer,  is  now 
published  and,  as  usual,  provides  most  interesting 
reading.  The  enormous  amount  of  good  work 
that  this  association  is  doing  ought  to  be  more 
fully  understood  by  Londoners  than  it  is,  and  this 
report  fully  explains  what  has  been  and  is  still 
being  done.  A  map  showing  where  open  spaces, 
&.C.,  have  been  obtained  for  the  public  is 
included,  and  this  shows  at  a  glance  the  vast 
amount  of  beneficial  work  that  has  been  under- 
taken and  carried  to  a  suooessful  issue  by  the 
association.  Copies  of  the  report  can  be  obtained 
for  7d. ,  post  free,  from  the  secretary,  83, 
Lancaster  Gate,  London,  W. 

PPUnUS  SUbhiPtella.  —  This  pretty 
Prunus  was  introduced  into  English  gardens 
from  Japan  about  fourteen  years  ago.  In  1895 
Professor  Sargent  of  the  Arnold  Arboretum, 
Boston,  U.S.A.,  sent  plants  to  the  Royal  Gar- 
dens, Kew,  and  the  largest  of  these  is  now 
a  nice  specimen.  It  may  be  seen  on  the 
side  of  the  Pagoda  Vista,  opposite  the  Ber- 
beris  Dell.  It  is  said  to  be  cultivated  largely 
in  Japanese  gardens  for  the  sake  of  its  beauty, 
though  it  is  a  native  plant.  Its  home  is  stated 
by  Maximowioz  to  be  the  mountains  of  Nippon. 
Under  cultivation  it  forms  a  small,  bushy 
headed  tree,  with  prominently  nerved,  acuminate 
leaves  2  inches  to  3  inches  long.  The  flowers 
are  white  or  slightly  tinged  with  rose,  and  the 
calyx  is  red.  From  three  to  five  flowers  are 
borne  together  from  the  buds  of  last  year's  wood 
in  early  April,  about  a  month  in  advance  of  the 
leaves.  It  nearest  relative  is  P.  pendula,  which, 
except  in  habit,  is  practically  identical.  P. 
subhirtella  thrives  in  light,  loamy  soil,  and  can 
be  readily  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  of 
half -ripe  wood  in  summer.  In  addition  to  being 
a  useful  outdoor  tree,  small  examples  are  of 
service  for  forcing. — W.  D. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


Potato    Midlothian    Early.  —  On 

reading  the  article  in  The  Garden  of  March  27, 
I  saw  that  the  Potato  known  as  Midlothian 
Early  was  described  as  a  white  kidney.  Three 
years  back  I  had  some  Potatoes  from  a  well- 
known  firm,  and  they  were  sent  as  Midlothian 
Early.  They  were  a  white  kidney  (and  a 
splendid  Potato,  too).  Last  year  when  I  was 
lifting  the  crop  from  the  above  strain  a  neighbour 
saw  them  and  was  struck  with  the  amount  of 
Potatoes,  also  the  quality  of  them,  and  asked 
me  what  they  were.  I  told  him  Midlothian 
Early,  and  he  said  if  they  were  that  variety  he 
had  got  the  wrong  sort,  as  he  had  sent  to 
another  firm  for  some  and  his  were  as  much  like 
Duke  of  York  as  possible.  I  have  asked  quite  a 
number  of  people  about  the  difference,  but  they 
say  evidently  I  have  got  the  wrong  sort.  I  have 
sent  this  note  hoping  you  will  have  space  to 
insert  it,  so  that  we  can  get  to  know  what  kind 
Midlothian  Early  is.  —  E.  FoxoN,  Burbage, 
Hinckley. 

NaPCiSSi  diseased. — With  reference  to 
your  answer  to  "  H.  S. "  about  diseased  Narcissi, 
I  put  about  100  pots  under  ashes  last  autumn, 
and  nearly  every  pot  has  a  malformed  bulb  in  it. 
I  have  used  the  same  lot  of  ashes  for  years,  so 
that  it  carmot  be  due  to  them.  I  thought  the 
first  batch  might  be  due  to  not  having  had 
enough  water,  but  the  succeeding  lots,  which 
have  been  well  watered,  have  gone  the  same 
way.  The  leaves  are  crinkled,  twisted  and 
curled  ;  sometimes  a  good  flower  will  appear  on 
a  stem  2  inches  long,  at  another  time  a  long  stem 


April  17,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


is^ 


will  have  a  malformed  flower.  It  has  never 
happened  with  me  before ;  but  it  is  curious  that  I 
went  to  a  new  man  for  these  particular  bulbs. 
I  have  grown  Narcissi  for  a  good  many  years, 
generally  forcing  about  100  pots. — Fked  Street. 

Late  -  flowering  Chrysanthe- 
mums.— Mr.  Godfrey  says  that  L.  Canning  is 
quite  out  of  date.  Can  he  name  another  white 
flowering  variety  to  flower  at  Christmas  in  a 
6-inoh  pot,  height  from  the  ground  not  more  than 
■26  inches,  with  from  nine  to  twelve  blooms  on  a 
plant,  each  bloom  5  inches  across  ?  L.  Canning 
with  me  has  come  up  to  this  standard  for  the  last 
four  years.  There  is  no  lack  of  white,  yellow, 
pink  and  bronze  flowering  varieties  for  Christmas 
work  :  but  I  should  be  very  much  obliged  if  any 
grower  could  recommend  a  reliable  red-flowertd 
variety  for  that  season. — J.  K.,  Enfield. 

Aptlfleial  manures.— I  have  much 
pleasure  in  replying  to  "  A  User  of  Spent  Hops," 
whose  note  appears  on  page  174  of  the  issue 
for  April  10.  Taking  his  questions  seriatim, 
Wakeley's  Patent  Hop  Manure  is  sold  under  a 
guaranteed  analysis,  which  I  quote  herewith  : 

....  .,.„,  /equal    to   sulphate    of 

N'trogen     2i5l|  \^^aTiis. 12-34 

Phosphates,  soluble      b-ZO\ 

,,  reduced      -g-Z  >  calculated  as  bone  earth      6-74 

insoluble 


5  ■30'! 
•92  }  c 
•52j 


Potash 3-26 


( equal    to   sulphate    of 


potash 004 

This  analysis  is  of  the  manure  dried  at  212°Fahr. 
It  will  be  seen,  therefore,  that  this  manure 
contains  a  good  percentage  of  the  three  principal 
plant  foods,  viz.,  nitrogen,  phosphates  and 
potash.  I  have  never  yet  seen  an  analysis  of 
spent  Hops  which  have  not  been  chemically 
treated,  but  it  is  certain  that  it  would  not 
approach  anywhere  near  that  given  above,  which 
is  very  much  in  advance  of  an  analysis  of 
ordinary  farmyard  manure.  I  have  used  tons  of 
ordinary  spent  Hops,  but  have  never  regarded 
them  as  having  any  appreciable  manurial  value. 
They  were  usually  employed  in  the  place  of  leaf- 
mould  when  pricking  out  seedlings,  as  they  are 
undoubtedly  valuable  as  a  rooting  medium.  My 
remarks  in  the  article  re  Wakeley's  Patent  Hop 
Manure  were  based  on  the  results  obtained  in 
actual  practice,  which  is,  after  all,  of  far  greater 
value  than  all  the  analyses  put  together. — K. 

Bandlngr  Apple  trees. — The  answer 

given  to  "A.  M.  B."  in  your  issue  of  the  6th  ult. 
is  incorrect  in  more  than  one  particular.  Sticky 
bands  are  not  used,  as  a  rule,  to  prevent  an 
attack  by  the  codlin  moth,  the  females  of  which 
are  not,  as  stated,  wingless  ;  but  they  are 
employed  to  trap  the  wingless  females  of  the 
winter  moth  (Cheimatobia  brumata),  the 
mottled  umber  moth  (Hybernia  defolaria)  and 
the  March  moth  (Anisopteryx  itsoularia).  The 
caterpillars  of  these  moths  when  they  are  full 
grown  let  themselves  down  to  the  ground  from 
the  leaves  on  which  they  have  been  feeding, 
and,  burying  themselves  in  the  soil,  become 
chrysalides.  When  the  moths  emerge  they 
make  their  way  to  the  surface  and  endeavour  to 
reach  the  stem  of  some  suitable  tree,  up  which 
they  crawl,  if  successful,  until  they  reach  the 
buds,  near  which  they  lay  their  eggs ;  being 
wingless  this  is  their  only  chance  of  reaching 
the  buds,  unless  perchance  they  may  be  carried 
up  by  the  males  when  pairing.  So  to  prevent 
them  from  ascending  the  trees  paper  bands 
covered  with  cart-grease  or  a  compound  specially 
prepared  for  this  purpose  (tar  is  not  so  useful, 
as  it  soon  dries)  are  fastened  round  the  stems. 
The  moths  on  trying  to  cross  the  bands  get 
entangled  in  the  grease  or  whatever  compound 
is  used  and  perish.  If,  however,  the  composi- 
tion gets  dry  and  loses  its  stickiness,  the  insects 
are  able  to  pass  over  the  band.  The  habits  and 
life-history  of  the  codlin  moth  (Carpocapsa 
pomonella)  are  very  different  to  those  of  the 
above  -  mentioned  moths.  The  females  are 
winged  and  fly  well,  so  that  sticky  bands  are  of 
no  use  in  their  case  ;  but  other  bands  are  used 
to  catch  the  caterpillars,  which  generally  fall  to 


the  ground  with  the  fruit  and  then  crawl  out  ; 
they  become  chrysalides  in  any  sheltered  place 
that  they  can  find,  selecting  in  preference  a 
crack  or  crevice  in  the  bark  of  some  fruit  tree 
near  at  hand,  or  in  some  post  or  fence  or  under 
rubbish.  To  prevent  them  from  using  the  stems 
for  this  purpose,  bands  made  of  old  sacking, 
canvas,  or  even  hay  or  straw  bands  are  very 
efiective,  as  they  afford  the  shelter  that  the 
caterpillars  are  in  search  of.  They  should  be 
made  of  strips  of  the  material  long  enough  to  go 
round  the  stem  and  slightly  to  overlap,  and  be  not 
less  than  9  inches  wide.  Each  strip  should  be 
folded  lengthwise  in  half  and  then  not  quite  in 
half  again  ;  they  should  be  tied  tightly  round 
the  tree,  so  that  the  caterpillars  cannot  creep 
under  them,  about 
'2  feet  from  the 
ground,  with  the 
doubly  tolded  edge 
uppermost,  so  that 
there  will  be  two 
divisions  in  each 
band,  in  which  the 
caterpillars  can 
shelter.  Such  bands 
would  be  of  no  use 
for  capturing  the 
wingless  moths. 
They  should  be  put 
into  position  as  soon 
as  any  windfalls 
containing  this  in- 
sect are  noticed  and 
should  be  kept  in 
working  order  until 
thecrop  is  gathered. 
It  is  well  to  exa- 
mine them  every 
now  and  then,  and 
to  kill  any  cater- 
pillars or  chrysa- 
lides which  they 
may  contain.  No 
stones  or  rubbish 
should  be  allowed 
to  remain  at  the 
foot  of  the  trees  for 
these  insects  to  har- 
bour in. — G.  S.  S. 

LETTERS  FROM 
OUR  READERS 
ABROAD. 

Interesting- 
Oreh  ids  ai 
Cape   Colony. 

I  am  sending  you 
a  photograph  of 
ground  Orchids 
which  grow  on 
our  mountains  here 
about  4,500  feet 
above  sea  level.  One 
ispure  white,  while 
the  other  has 
maroon,  or  almost 
chocolate  coloured, 
spots  inside.  The 
flower-stalks  grow 
about  2  feet  high 
and  the  plants  are  always  found  on  the  south  side 
of  rocks  (your  northern  aspect).  The  flowers  have 
a  very  sweet  scent  and  last  for  more  than  a  week 
after  being  cut.  I  have  flowered  some  splendid 
specimens  in  a  pot  on  the  south  (cool  side)  of  my 
house.  They  are  in  full  bloom  now,  which  is  our 
autumn.  Can  you  name  this  plant  for  me? — 
A.  Steqmaxn,  Somerset  East,  Cape  Colony.  [Pro- 
bably varieties  of  Disa  crassioornis. — Ed  ] 

The  German  Consul's  garden  at 
Foochow,  China. — I  am  sending  you  two 
photographs  which  may  interest  you,  and  perhaps 
you  would  like  to  reproduce  them  in  your  highly 
appreciated  paper.  One  represents  my  residence, 
and  til"  ntlier  the  interior  of  my  Orchid  house. 


which  is  100  feet  long.  The  photograph  was  taken 
in  the  central  part  of  the  house  (see  page  190). — 
G.  SiEMSSEN  (German  Consul),  Foochow.  China. 


RIVIERA     NOTES. 

THERE  can  be  no  doubt,  I  think,   that 
the  pretty  pure  white 
Winter  -  flowering      Bcddleia 
called  Colombia,  from   having   been 
grown  first  in  M.  Edouard  Andre's 
garden  at  Golfe  Juan  of  that  name, 
is  the  same  as  that  grown  in  England  under  the 
name  of  Begonia  albiflora.     It  is,  however,  quite 
white  in  flower,  without  a  shade  of  lilac  in  it,  as 


VARIETIES  OF  DISA   CRASSIOORNIS  IN  SO0TH  AFRICA. 


described  in  Messrs.  Veitch's  catalogue,  so  that 
it  is  probable  the  species  is  a  little  variable  in 
colour  when  raised  from  seed.  This  pure  white 
Buddleia  is  a  strong  and  perennial-growing  shrub 
which  attains  considerable  height  when  trained 
up  a  pillar  or  against  a  wall,  and  stands  as  much 
as  8°  (English)  of  frost  before  its  flowers  are 
injured,  so  it  must  prove  a  charming  addition  to 
winter-flowering  shrubs  in  all  sheltered  gardens. 
Its  bold,  branching  sprays  of  flower  are  more 
slender  and  upright  than  those  of  the  late 
summer-flowering  Buddleia  variabilis  Veitohii, 
and  its  leaves  are  much  narrower  in  proportion 
to  its  length,  making  very  pretty  sprays  for 
cutting  to  mix  with  Iris  stylosa  or  any  other 


188 


THE    GARDEN. 


[APRii,  17,  1909. 


winter-blooming  plant.  With  a  few  cut  Poin 
settias  it  is  particularly  light  and  effective  when 
out  for  the  house.     It  is  quite  scentless. 

Lachbnalia  pendcla  ma.tor  (or  var.  aureliana) 
is  less  grown  in  England,  I  fancy,  than  on  this 
coast,  where  it  is  much  used  for  winter  bedding. 
Its  bold  heads,  of  a  particularly  telling  shade  of 
red,  make  a  welcome  glow  of  colour  when 
Salvia  splendens  is  past  and  the  early  Tulips  and 
Salvia  gesnerseflora  are  hardly  in  beauty.  It  has 
one  objection  in  this  climate,  namely,  that  it 
does  not  thrive  when  planted  permanently  in  the 
garden.  It  needs  sun  in  winter  to  bring  it  to 
perfection,  like  all  Laohenalias  ;  but  it  cannot 
stand  the  pitiless  burning  and  baking  of  the 
summers  here,  so  it  must  be  taken  up  and  kept 
in  a  cool,  dry  cellar  during  the  summer  months. 
With  these  reserves  it  is,  with  other  Lachenalias 
that  flower  later,  a  very  desirable  bulb  for  any 
garden,  and  needs  the  same  light  and  rich  soil 
that  they  enjoy. 

ViTis  voMBRKNSis. — Under  this  name,  which 
I    cannot    quite    guarantee,    a    very   handsome 
evergreen  Vine  has  been  growing   for  three  or 
four  years  in  a  Nice  villa  garden,  and  has  only 
once  suffered  at  all  during  the  severest  frosts  on 
this  coast.     There  is  nothing  in  the  least  like  it 
for  bold  growth  and  effect,  and  I  much  hope  that 
my  mention  of  it  may  bring  forth  some  notes 
about  it  from  others  who  may  grow  it.      Its 
large,  leathery  foliage  is  deeply  cut  up  into  fine 
lobes,  which  are  in  turn  roughly  decorated  and 
edged  with  a  light  brown  tomentum.  On  a  slightly 
shaded   wall  or  sheltered  pergola  it  is  superbly 
handsome.     It  is  so  much  bigger  and  massive  ; 
indeed,  I  may  say  more  sculptured  in  effect  than 
any  other    climber    I    have    seen    outside    the 
Tropics.     The  strong,  brown-felted  stems  bear 
these   metallic-looking  leaves  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  each  other,  and  they  diminish  in 
size  gradually  from  the  base  of  the  year's  growth 
to   those   that  are   at   the   end   of,    perhaps,    a 
10-feet  or  15-feet  shoot.     The  colour  varies  also 
from  the    deep    olive  green  leaves   most  fully 
developed  to  the  brilliant  green  tones  of  the 
smaller    leaves    of    the    late    autumn    growth. 
Whatever  its  origin  or  its  true  name  may  be,  it 
is  worth   hunting  for   and    planting    wherever 
there  is  room  for  so  bold  a  grower  and  a  climber 
so  unusual  in  every  way  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 
DiPi.OPAPPUs     FRUTicosns.  —  This     shrubby 
Cape  Michaelmas  Daisy  is  always  a  source  of 
interest  and  admiration  during  the  months  of 
January  and  February,  for  its  star-shaped  flowers 
are  so  exactly    like    the   autumn    Michaelmas 
Daisies  that  the  new-comer  invariably  remarks, 
"  How  late  for  an  Aster  to  be  in  flower  ! "     It  is 
more  dainty  in  growth  and  foliage  than  most  of 
the  Asters,  and  as  a  midwinter  flowering  shrub 
it  is  of  great  value  on  a  dry  bank,  where,  with 
the   Erioeephalus  oapensis  and  Coronilla  valen- 
tina,  this  trio  of  neat-flowering  winter  shrubs  is 
shown  to  great  advantage.     The  white  heads  of 
Daisy-like  flowers  on  the  Erioeephalus  turn  to 
white  cottonwool  tufts,  so  that  at  a  distance  the 
plant  looks  in  flower  up  to  the  month  of  May, 
while  the  Coronillas  begin  in  February  and  con- 
tinue  throughout   the   spring.      C.  valentina  is 
first,  C.  glauca  second  and  C.  ooronata  latest  and 
largest  of  all. 

Prunus  serrulata  spbciosa.  —  Under  this 
name  a  pretty  Cherry  with  deep  Rose  du  Barry- 
coloured  flowers  has  been  in  bloom  some  time, 
coinciding  with  the  earliest  Almonds.  It  has  the 
great  advantage  of  keeping  nearly  all  its  green 
last  year's  foliage  to  set  off  the  dainty  rose-petalled 
Cherry  blossoms.  For  this  coast  it  is  a  real 
acquisition,  but  it  is  evidently  a  rather  small 
grower  and  should  be  grafted  on  a  5-feet  standard 
to  enjoy  its  pendulous  flowers  and  green  leaves, 
which  make  it  so  unlike  any  other  Cherry  at 
flowering  time.  The  sequence  of  flowers  is  also 
unusual,  as  the  peduncles  produce  quite  a  succes- 
sion of  buds  one  after  the  other.  Last  year  my 
plant  was  in  flower  from  the  last  day  of  January 
to  the  very  end  of  March,  a  period  of  seven  weeks 
at  least.  Edward  H.  Woodall. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


HOW    TO 


f  uonitnx 

w 


GROW    FRUIT    TREES    IN 
POTS. 

(Continued    from    page     164. J 

HEN  I  first  started  to  grow  our 
orchard-house  trees  in  pots  I 
took  note  of  the  procedure  fol- 
lowed by  the  most  successful 
growers  of  the  same,  viz., 
Messrs.  Rivers  of  Sawbridge- 
worth,  and  1  was  surprised  to  learn  how  strictly 
they  carried  out  this  annual  potting.  I  firmly 
believe  that  the  omission  to  pot  every  season  has 
been  a  frequent  cause  of  failure.  Perhaps  some 
may  have  had  trees  which  for  varied  reasons  have 
not  fruited  as  they  should  have  done.  To  assume, 
as  a  general  rule,  that  the  omission  of  potting 
every  autumn  will  meet  the  case  is  a  mistake  ; 
this  will  increase  the  labour  of  watering.  Allusion 
has  been  made  to  potting  firmly.  This,  I  feel, 
must  be  emphasised,  as  it  is  all -important.  If 
not  potted  firmly  the  finer  portions  of  the  soil 
are  more  likely  to  be  carried  away  during  the 
process  of  watering.  Another  reason  is  that  firm 
potting  is  conducive  to  the  production  of  fine 
fibrous  roots,  which  are  infinitely  better  than 
those  of  a  coarser  tendency.  When  one  looks  at 
and  compares  these  trees  in  pots,  the  disparity 
between  the  size  of  the  pot  and  the  tree  itself 
seems  to  be  out  of  all  proportion,  i.e.,  the  pots 
appear  to  be  far  too  small.  We  have  trees  now 
in  pots  that  have  been  forced  yearly  for  twelve 
years  past,  and  which  rarely  ever  miss  carrying 
a  good  crop  of  fruit,  suoh,  for  instance,  as 
Cardinal  and  Early  Rivers'  Nectarines,  now  in 
1'2-ineh  pots  with  a  height  of  5  feet  and  a  spread 
of  3  feet.  Of  Peaches  we  have  Dr.  Hogg  and 
Stirling  Castle  in  12-inch  pots,  the  height  being 
7  feet  and  the  width  across  the  head  3^  feet.  Of 
Plums  we  have  Early  Transparent  (iage  and 
Reine  Claude  Comte  Althan  in  smaller  pots  even 
when  compared  with  the  size  of  the  tree  ;  one  of 
the  former  is  in  a  11 -inch  pot,  the  tree  being 
5  feet  high  and  3  feet  through,  and  one  of  the 
latter  is  in  a  11 -inch  pot  having  a  height  of  5^  feet 
and  a  spread  of  SJ  feet. 

Soils. 

The  chief  thing  to  secure  is  a  good  quality  of 
loam  with  plenty  of  fibre  in  it.  The  top  spit  of 
an  old  pasture  which  is  tough  and  not  easily 
crumbled  up  is  excellent.  In  our  case  we  usually 
mix  two  loams  together.  For  some  years  we  used 
what  was  called  Banstead  loam,  but  this  is  now 
practically  worthless  and  dear  at  any  price.  My 
choice  now  is  a  strong  calcareous  loam  that  comes 
from  Kettering  with  another  from  Hampshire. 
Both  of  these  are  full  of  plant  food,  the  latter 
being  somewhat  lighter  in  texture  than  the  former. 
When  mixed  these  form  an  excellent  potting  soil 
for  fruit  trees.  To  these  loams  we  add  about  one 
in  twelve  of  well-decayed  manure,  and  nearly  as 
much  of  lime  rubble  broken  up  finely.  No 
stimulating  manures  of  any  kind  other  than  that 
named  are  mixed  with  the  soil ;  these  had  far 
better  be  used  later  on  to  assist  the  trees  when 
fruiting.  I  much  prefer  to  have  the  soil  rather 
on  the  dry  side  than  otherwise  for  potting.  We 
usually  mix  the  soil  during  dry  weather  in  Sep- 
tember, and  thence  onwards  protect  it  with  a 
tarpauling.  In  this  way  the  advice  given  already 
to  pot  firmly  is  much  better  carried  out.  The 
soil  should  never  be  what  is  termed  pasty  or 
aticky.  Jambs  Hudson,  V.M.H. 

(To  be  continued.) 


FRUIT  NOTES. 
Mdlohinci  Strawberries.  —  Strawberries  are 
fruits  that  demand  practically  incessant  cultural 
attention  from  the  time  when  the  roots  recom- 
mence activity  in  the  spring  after  their  winter's 
rest  until  the  beds  are  finally  cleared  up  in  the 


autumn.  The  last  operation  is  to  thoroughly 
mulch  the  entire  plantation  ^^ith  the  finest 
manure  that  is  at  command ;  and  now  that  spring 
has  quite  reached  us,  it  is  excellent  practice  to 
rake  off  the  remains  of  this  dressing  and  put  on 
another  one.  As  soon  as  all  the  material  has  been 
removed  the  soil  should  be  weeded  and  either 
lightly  hoed  or  pointed  over  with  a  fork,  so  as  to 
leave  the  surface  open  to  thejfree  admission  of 
fresh,  warm  air,  which  will  prove  of  inestimable 
benefit  to  the  plants.  Upon  the  completion  of 
these  tasks  the  cultivator  should  apply  to  the 
surface  a  good  covering  of  long,  strawy  manure, 
from  which  the  roots  will  receive  immediate 
sustenance,  and  in  due  course  the  straw  will  be 
washed  perfectly  clean  and  will  answer  the 
further  purpose  of  a  bed  upon  which  the  ripening 
fruits  may  rest,  and  thus  be1,kept  free  from  dirt 
and  grit.  In  some  instances  there  is  a  possibility 
that  the  grower  has  not  sufficient  suitable  litter 
at  his  command,  and  in  this  event  it  is  wise  to 
dress  the  soil  with  some  approved  concentrated 
fertiliser,  following  the  directions  of  the  manu- 
facturers, and  later  on  he  will  have  to  spread 
clean  straw  or  adopt  some  other  device  for 
keeping  the  swelling  fruits  quite  clear  of  the 
surface  of  the  ground. 

Disbudding. — This  important  operation  should 
be  pressed  forward  with  all  speed,  but  the  inex- 
perienced cultivator  must  bear  in  mind  that  it  is 
a  detail  of  management  that  demands  consider- 
able judgment  and  no  small  amount  of  skill.  To 
set  to  work  and  rub  out  every  bud  that  was  not 
required  at  one  time  would  be  to  court  the 
disaster  which  would  assuredly  follow,  for  the 
tree  would  receive  a  shock  that  it  could  not  with- 
stand. Avoid  this  by  proceeding  in  stages  and 
completing  the  entire  work  in  three  or  four  turns. 
The  result  will  then  be  fully  satisfactory,  no 
matter  from  what  particular  point  of  view  it  may 
be  regarded. 

Surface  Tillage. — Among  the  many  details 
that  go  to  successful  fruit  culture,  few,  if  any, 
are  of  more  real  importance  than  the  surface 
working  of  the  soil  in  which  the  roots  are  ramify- 
ing. The  desirability  of  keeping  the  feeders  as 
near  the  top  as  possible  is  unquestioned,  and  one 
of  the  readiest  means  to  this  end  is  by  spreading 
mulchings  of  sweet  manure;  but  these  are  not 
always  at  command,  and  their  absence  must  be 
compensated  for  by  surface  loosening.  If  the 
top  soil  is  persistently  hoed  or  pricked  over  with 
a  fork  the  cultivator  derives  a  dual  advantage, 
for  in  the  first  place  he  encourages  the  free 
admission  of  rain  and  warm,  fresh  air,  while  in 
the  second  place  he  ensures  the  retention  of  the 
food  in  the  ground.  If  this  principle  can  be 
applied  to  all  the  quarters,  recompense  is  certain 
to  follow  in  the  form  of  finer  sets  of  fruits  and 
superior  quality. 

Spring  Spraying.  —  Unfortunately  for  the 
British  fruit-grower  there  are  several  pests  which, 
unless  they  are  vigorously  and  persistently 
attacked,  will  work  sad  havoc  among  the  crope,. 
It  is,  of  course,  true  that  much  remedial  and 
preventive  work  can  be  and  is  done  in  the 
late  autumn  and  winter,  but  these  efforts  must 
invariably  be  supplemented  by  others  in  the 
spring.  Let  us  take,  for  example,  those  two 
dreaded  enemies,  the  winter  and  Codlin  moths. 
Sticky  bands  on  the  boles  of  the  trees  and  caustic 
winter  washes  are  of  immense  service  and  account 
for  thousands  of  pests  annually,  but  all  are  not 
caught,  and  it  is  those  that  are  left  which  we 
desire  to  tackle  in  the  spring.  In  both  cases 
there  is  nothing  superior  to  Paris  green  at  the 
rate  of  loz.  to  twenty  gallons  of  water,  sprayed 
on  in  the  finest  possible  film  before  the  blossoms 
expand,  after  the  petals  are  cast  and,  finally, 
before  the  fruits  turn  downwards,  the  latter 
being  especially  directed  against  the  Codlin 
moth.  This  substance  is,  however,  of  a 
poisonous  character,  and  must  be  handled  with 
a  reasonable  amount  of  care.  If  ordinary  pre- 
cautions are  taken,  the  novice  in  fruit  growing 
need  not  hesitate  to  use  it  as  a  preventive  and 
destroyer  of  the  pests  named.     Fruit-orower. 


April  17,  1909.1 


THE     GARDEN. 


189 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


VEGETABLE    CULTURE. 

Why  Not   a  NATIO^fAL  Vegetable  Society  ? 
"^  HOSE   who   have   the  opportunity  of 


that,  though  lacking  in  size,  are  undoubtedly 
the  most  refined.  What  we  really  need  is  a 
National  Vegetable  Society,  run  on  the  same 
up-to-date  lines  as  the  National  Sweet  Pea 
Society  or  the  National  Rose  Society.  There  is 
undoubtedly  a  vast  amount  of  good  work  that 
such  a  society  could  carry  out,  and  surely  those 
who  have  a  special  interest  in  vegetables  could 
be  depended  upon  to  support  it  in  the  same 
generous  manner  that  our  numerous  floral 
societies  are  supported.  It  is  true  that  such  a 
society  has  already  existed,  and  considering  the 
effect  that  vegetables  have  on  the  health  of  the 
nation  it  is  high  time  that  it  was  revived.     Com- 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


gauging  to  some  extent  the  trend  of 

public   opinion   or    tastes    regarding 

horticultural  matters   will   be  aware 

that    there    is    an     ever  -  increasing 

demand  for  wholesome  vegetables, 
and  the  up-to-date  grower  will  not  be  slow  to 
meet  this  demand.     Many  cultivators,  however, 

seem  exceedingly  slow  to  adopt  the  unorthodox,  |  pared  with  flowers,  which,  by  the  way,  I  admire 
hence  my  excuse  for  this  article.  The  term  and  appreciate  as  much  as  anyone,  vegetables 
vegetables  is  here  used  in  its  widest  sense,  are  of  considerably  greater  value,  and  to  the 
80  as  to  include  salads  and  even  Khubarb.  1  average  man  or  woman  it  must  seem,  to  say 
Nor  must  the  terra  wholesome  be  construed  j  the  least,  very  strange  that  we  can  form  floral 
to  mean  solely  rare  or  out-of-the-way  vegetables,  i  societies  almost  innumerable  and  yet  cannot 
but  also  good  quality  specimens  of  the  kinds  and  '  muster  one  to  look  after  vegetables, 
varieties    that    we    already 


Cultivators  have  almost  a  plethora 
of  good  subjects  to  work  upon  :  but 
in  the  past  there  is  no  doubt  that  far 
too  much  attention  has  been  paid  to 
size,  with  the  natural  result  that 
quality  has  suffered  to  a  considerable 
extent.  This,  perhaps,  does  not 
apply  to  our  best  gardeners  in  private 
establishments  so  much  as  to  those 
who  grow  for  market,  but  both  are 
undoubtedly  guilty  in  a  lesser  or 
greater  degree. 

Let  me  hasten  to  assure  my  critics 
that  I  am  fully  aware  that  certain 
vegetables  are  better  for  a  few  pur- 
poses when  grown  large,  but.  generally 
speaking,  this  is  not  so.  I  feel  sure 
that  in  the  past  the  kitchen  garden 
and  vegetable  land  in  market  estab- 
lishments has  been  far  too  heavily 
manured,  with  the  result  that  rank, 
coarse  growth  has  been  obtained, 
which,  as  regards  flavour  and  fineness 
of  texture,  cannot  be  compared  with 
that  grown  on  poorer  but  still  good 
quality  soil.  Many  a  kitchen  garden 
in  the  country  has  been  so  heavily 
and  continuously  manured  that  it  is 
what  good  gardeners  expressively 
term  manure-sick,  and,  of  course, 
the  obvious  remedy  is  to  withhold 
natural  manures  for  a  jear  or  two 
and  give  a  good  dressing  with  lime. 
Better  by  far  give  the  manure  to 
the  flowers,  which  are  frequently  half 
starved. 

As  one  who  has  necessarily  to  buy 
vegetables  for  a  good  part  of  the 
year,  I  say  with  all  considotation 
that  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  pur- 
chase any  (except,  perhaps.  Potatoes) 
that  are  fit  to  eat.  The  average  con- 
sumer is  content  to  put  up  with  such 
produce,  because  in  nine  cases  out 
of  ten  he  does  not  know  that  it  is  possible  to 
produce  any  of  better  quality  ;  but  once  let  him 
realise  this  fact,  as  he  is  slowly  but  surely  doing, 
and  I  think  growers  will  have  to  bow  to  the 
inevitable  and  produce  what  is  wanted. 

Then,  again,  there  are  some  vegetables  that 
one  rarely  sees  at  all,  except  in  the  gardens  of 
the  wealthy  or  those  shops  where  prices  are 
altogether  prohibitive.  Let  anyone  who 
doubts  this  statement  ask  the  average  green- 
grocer for,  say.  Globe  Artichokes,  Chicory  or 
Witloof ,  Salsify  or  Soorzonera  when  these  are  in 
season,  and  it  is  ten  to  one  he  will  not  even 
know  them. 

Probably  the  vast  amount  of  laxity  that 
exists  in  regard  to  vegetable  culture  is  due 
to  ignorance,  and  I  feel  sure  that  many 
local  horticultural  societies  have  done  much 
to  foster  ooarsenesB  at  the  expense  of  quality. 
It  requires  a  stout-hearted  judge  to  give 
the    premier    awards     at    shows     to    exhibits 


^^m^^smmmmmmsm^ 


SIUIKTU    ciALAClFOLlA    IN   A   LINCOLNSHIRE   GARDEN, 

At  present  many  excellent  trials  of  a  few 
kinds  of  vegetables  are  being  conducted  by  the 
various  county  councils,  and  seed  firms,  of 
course,  conduct  their  own  trials  ;  but  something 
more  is  needed  to  bring  before  the  public  what  is 
really  good  and  to  set  up  a  standard  for  judging 
at  local  shows.  When  this  is  done  we  may  hope 
to  obtain  vegetables  that  are  suitable  for  con- 
sumption by  human  beings,  instead  of,  as  now, 
being  merely  bags  of  vegetable  tissue  gorged 
with  manure  juices. 

A  Lover  or  Good  Vegetables. 

[We  are  pleased  with  this  letter.  Vegetables 
when  properly  grown  and  properly  cooked  are 
welcome  in  the  home,  whether  that  home  is  a 
palace  or  a  cottage.  The  vegetable  as  grown  for 
sale  in  England  at  the  present  time  is  not  fit  to 
eat,  but  happily  there  are  signs  of  great  develop- 
ments. We  hope  to  publish  several  notes  on  the 
cultivation  and  cooking  of  vegetables — a  most 
important  subject  at  the  present  time. — Ed.] 


SHORTIA    GALACIFOLIA. 

A  LTHOUGH  less  rare  than  was  the  case  a 
/\         few  years  ago,  Shortia  galacifolia  is 
/  %        still  far  from  being  widely  grown,  so 
/      ^      much  so  that  one  hesitates  to  describe 
/         \_    it  as  a  common  plant  in  gardens,  yet, 
so   far   as   cultural  requirements  are 
concerned,  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  it  becoming 
familiar  even  to  this  degree.    My  first  experience 
of  Shortia  galacifolia  was  marked  by  the  receipt 
of  a  tiny  scrap  "established?"   in  the  orthodox 
flower-pot  that,  when  shaken  free  from  the  soil, 
revealed  only  a  fragment  of  root  attached  to  the 
stem,  while  the  only  evidence  of  foliage  was  four 
small   leaves,   perforated,    torn  and   almost   too 
decrepit  to  be  of    any  further  service  to  the 
plant.      Such     examples    I     have     found     not 
uncommon,    due    no    doubt   to   over- 
propagation.     However,    it   serves   to 
illustrate  the  marvellous  tenacity  upon 
life  which   is  so  characteristic  a  fea- 
ture of  this  Shortia.     Specimens  like 
the  above  rarely  show  much  evidence 
of  growth  the  first   year   after  plant- 
ing ;     the     second    season    returniof.' 
.strength  will  be  evident  as  the  shoots 
grow  and  develop  leaves,  and  in  th« 
third  season   this  tiny  scrap   covered 
a   9-inch   circle    with    its    foliage  and 
produced  flowers  the  following  spring. 
A  light,    moist    soil    is    essential    to 
success.      The  humus   which   collects 
and    forms     in    Oak    plantations,    if 
mixed  with  equal  parts  of  sandy  peat 
and  loam,  will  form  an  ideal  rooting 
medium  into  which  the  slender  growths 
will  readily  penetrate.     Chalk  or  lime 
in   any  form  must   be   rigorously  ex- 
cluded from   the  soil.      The  position 
selected  for  planting  may  be  as  open 
as  possible  provided  no  great  amount 
of  midday  sun  plays  upon  the  plants, 
for    though    full    exposure    yields    a 
deeper  purple  in  the   foliage,   yet   it 
does  not  help  forward  the  full  develop- 
ment of  the  plant,  as  in  partial  shade 
we  simulite  most  closely  its  natural 
conditions.   In  such  positions  it  flowers 
ungrudgingly    when    established,    the 
foliage    taking    on    additional   charm 
by  reason  of   the  diversified  mingling 
of  green  and  bronze  and  purple  in  the 
leaves.     It  flowers  in  the  open  during 
April — early  or  late  according  to  the 
season.    The  buds  are  crimson,  carried 
on  slender,  wiry  stems,  and  these  begin 
to  lengthen  in   March,  until,   eventu- 
ally, the  solitary  flowers  are  unfolded. 
The  cbroUa  is  ivory  white,  having  the 
edges  all  crimped  and  waved.      The 
five-tongued  anthers  are    lemon,   the 
sterna  ruby  pink  and  the  foliage  veined 
and  marbled,  forming  in  the  aggregate  one  of  the 
daintiest  treasures  among  hardv  plants.    S.  galaci- 
folia is  rarely  more  than  6  inches  in  height,  and 
not  even  this  unless  under  the  conditions  indicated 
above.      The  foliage  is  evergreen,  and  springs 
from  the  rootstock,  resting  upon  the  soil  in  the 
form  of  low  mounds,  which  are  beautiful  even 
when  not  in  flower.     The  history  of  the  plant  is 
a  lasting  tribute  to  the  dauntless  energy  which 
characterises  plant  collectors.     "  First  coUeoted 
by  Miohaux  in  1788.  his  imperfect  specimens  lay 
unnoticed  till  Asa  Grey  saw  them  in  Michaux's 
herbarium  in  Paris  and  recognised  in  them  an 
unknown  plant.     Its  rediscovery  dates  from  1877 
with  the  finding  of  a  tiny  pitch  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Catawba  River,  North  Carolina." 

There  is  also  a  pretty  pink  form  of  S.  galaci- 
folia which  is  making  headway  in  gardens. 
The  only  other  species  in  cultivation  is  the 
Japanese  S.  uniflora.  This  has  smaller  leaves 
and  flowers  slightly  larger  than  in  the  American 


190 


THE    GARDEN. 


[April  17,  1909. 


species  :  it  is  also  more  diliiuull  Lo  cotdblish. 
Plants  to  associate  with  Shortia  and  sustain  the  t 
interest  are  none  too  plentiful.  I  have  found  the 
following  succeed  under  the  same  conditions : 
Galax  aphylla,  Gaultheria  numniularicf  folia,  j 
Daphne  blagayana,  D.  Cneorum,  Betula  erenata 
nana  and  the  beautiful  creeping  Salix  reticulata. 
Walmagate  Gardens.  Thomas  Smith. 


PLANTING    OUT    CARNATIONS. 

OwiNi;  to  the  wet,  cold  weather  recently  ex- 
perienced, the  work  of  planting  out  border  Car- 
nations has  in  many  cases  been  delayed,  but  it 
will  now  be  advisable  to  accomplish  the  task  as 
soon  as  possible.  The  ground  in  many  cases  will 
have  been  prepared  for  their  reception,  but 
where  this  has  not  been  done  no  time  should  be 
lost  before  a  site  is  thoroughly  manured  and 
deeply  dug,  as  the  Carnation  demands  good 
cultivation  if  the  best  results  are  to  follow. 
Well-drained  soil  is  essential  and,  providing  a 
light  soil,  which  is  naturally  dry,  owing  to  a 
gravelly  or  chalk  subsoil,  is  being  prepared  for 
Carnations,  a  liberal  quantity  of  cow-manure 
should  be  worked  into  the  bottom  of  the  trench 
as  the  digging  proceeds.  The  manure  will  thus 
be  within  reach  of  the  roots  of  the  plants  at  a 
time  when  nourishment  is  very  beneficial,  viz., 
during  the  production  of  the  flowers,  while 
strong,  healthy  "grass"  will  also  be  available 
for  layering.  When  applying  the  manure  to 
these  light  soils  an  even  layer  3  inches  in  thick- 
ness should  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of  each 
trench,  as  a  scanty  application  is  not  sufficient 
to  produce  good  returns. 

After  the  digging  is  completed,  and  when  the 
surface  is  fairly  dry,  tread  the  whole  firmly  and 
evenly,  give  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  soot,  level  the 
soil  witli  the  rake  and  plant  out  as  soon  as 
possible.  Strong  -  growing  varieties  may  be 
planted  1  foot  apart  each  way,  but  those  of 
moderate  growth  may  be  planted  somewhat 
closer.  Press  the  soil  firmly  around  the  roots,  as  a 
moderately  firm  rooting  medium  induces  strong, 
healthy  growth  and,  consequently,  fine  blooms. 

Over-feeding  with  liquid  manure  must  be 
avoided,  or  soft,  sappy  growth  will  result  and 
poor  blooms  will  follow.  Several  applications  of 
diluted  manure  waterroay  be  given  when  theplants 
are  growing  freely  and  forming  their  flowers. 
Keep  the  soil  around  the  plants  frequently  stirred 
with  the  hoe,  and  during  a  period  of  dry  weather 


IN   A   GARDEK    IX    CHINA   {THE  OBRMAN   CONSULATE).       (Seepage  lli7.) 


give    attention    to    watering.      Syiinging    over- 
head during  the  evening  following  a  hot,  dry  day  : 
is  most  beneficial  to  the  plants.  1 

Should  the  soil  be  of  a  heavy,  retentive  nature,  [ 
drainage  must  be  provided,  and  in  this  case  a 
dressing  of  horse-manure  should  be  used  in  place  j 
of   the   cow-manure   as   advised   for  the  lighter  j 
soils.      Finely  broken    mortar    rubbish    or    old  ] 
plaster  should  also  be  worked  into  the  soil,   or, 
failing   this,    a   liberal   duantity   of   sharp   road 
sand,  which  will  help  to  keep  the  soil  open  and 
tend  to  free  and  healthy  root  action.     The  Car- 
nation  succeeds    admirably    in   a    deep,    rather 
heavy  loam,  providing  the  necessary  preparations 
are  made  before  planting.     Choose  a  fine  day  for 
planting,  and  if  there  is  any  danger  of  damage 
being  done  by  sparrows,  black  thread  must  be 
brought   into    use.      It   is   wise    in   many   cases 
to  attend  to    this   as    soon   as    the   planting   is 
completed,  or  much  damage  may  be  done  in  a 
few  hours. 

There  are   many  beautiful  varieties  of  border 
Carnations,  and  in  addition  to  these  many  of  the 


Perpetual-flowering  or  Tree  Carnations  succeed 
well  and  are  indeed  beautiful  when  planted  out, 
giving  a  long  succession  of  their  charming  flowers. 
The  Old  Crimson  Clove  and  also  the  White  Clove 
have  a  charm  of  their  own,  and  should  be  included 
in  every  collection.  C  KnsE. 


PART  OF  THE   ORCHID   HOUSE  IN   rOOCHOW.       (See  page  187.) 


SHOULD  ALPINES  BE  MANURED  ? 
There  appears  to  be  something  of  the  nature  of 
vandalism  about  the  suggestion  implied  in  the 
question  which  forms  the  title  to  these  notes. 
It  seems  as  if  there  was  a  want  of  appropriate- 
ness in  the  association  of  alpine  flowers  and 
manure,  a  kind  of  lowering  of  the  virtues  and 
ideas  we  associate  with  these  wildings  of  the 
mountains,  when  we  think  of  them  in  the  same 
moment  as  requiring  the  aid  of  such  mundane 
things  as  manures,  which  are  generally  associated 
with  less  ethereal  plants.  But  why  should  this 
be ':  We  consider  it  quite  a  matter  of  course 
that  the  Potato  or  the  Cauliflower  should  be 
manured,  and  we  think  none  the  less  of  the 
luscious  Pear  or  the  fine  Grape  because  we  know 
that  such  sordid  things  as  manures  have  been 
required  to  bring  it  to  perfection.  And  if  the 
Chrysanthemum  or  Dahlia  requires  manure  to 
bring  it  to  the  zenith  of  its  beauty,  we  need  not 
hesitate  to  apply  manures  or  fertilisers  to  our 
alpine  flowers,  provided  we  are  assured  that  they 
will  benefit  thereby. 

We  are  by  no  means  discomfited  when  we  are 
told  that  these  plants  do  not  require  or  re  jei ve 
this  in  their  own  homes  away  up  on  the 
mountains.  If  they  do  not  receive  animal 
manure  they  often  have  fertilisers  from  other 
sources.  In  our  rock  gardens  leaves  and  other 
vegetable  matter  are  removed  frequently  from 
about  the  plants,  whereas,  if  we  could  allow 
these  to  remain  they  would  supply  some  form 
of  nourishment  for  the  plants.  Of  course,  both 
tidiness  and  also  the  safety  of  the  flowers  from 
the  attacks  of  slugs,  which  would  hide  among 
this  decaying  matter,  compel  us  to  clear  away 
this,  and  the  plants  do  not  thus  receive  their 
natural  supply  of  fresh  nourishment.  There  is 
thus  no  sound  argument  against  the  fertilising 
of  alpines  by  means  of  animal  or  artificial 
manure,  and  many  have  followed  the  practice 
of  manuring  their  rook  plants  which  were 
showing  signs  of  decadence,  with  satisfactory 
results. 

Animal  manure  has  been  scouted  as  unnatural 
for  alpines  ;  but,  after  all,  when  well  decayed,  it 
differs  little  from  decayed  vegetation,  and  cow- 
manure,  well-rotted  until  the  stronger  elements 


April  17,  1909.  J 


THE    GARDEN. 


191 


have  been  eliminated,  is  most  valuable  for  many 
plants  which  require  stimulating,  if  mixed  with 
fine  loam  and  sand  and  worked  in  and  about  the 
base  of  the  plants.  Stable  manure,  also,  if  old 
and  thoroughly  decayed,  may  be  mixed  in  the 
same  way.  Bone-dust  is  also  of  great  benefit  to 
subjects  whioh  like  lime,  and  a  mere  pinch  of 
almost  any  of  the  good  artificial  fertilisers  sold  by 
reliable  firms  will  often  give  just  the  stimulus 
required  by  plants  which  have  exhausted,  or 
nearly  so,  the  nourishment  in  the  soil  to  which 
they  have  been  anchored  so  long. 

The  loss  of  some  plants  is  entirely  due  to  the 
starvation  they  have  to  encounter,  and  in  our 
moist  climate  these  alpine  plants  appear  to  draw 
more  strongly  upon  their  resources  than  away  on 
the  high  mountains,  where  they  are  generally 
much  dwarf  er  and  less  vigorous  at  first  than  with 
us. 

In   thus    advancing   the   views   that   manures 
may  be,  and  sometimes  are,  valuable  to  alpine 
flowers,  one   must  guard  carefully  against  the 
supposition    that     all     require     this     aid,     and 
also    that    every    kind    of    manure    will    suit 
these.      Nor  must    it  be    accepted  as  part  of 
the  writer's  opinion  that    this   manure  should 
be    applied  freely  and   frequently.     With  such 
subjects  the  greatest  care   is  necessary,  and   a 
tiny    pinch     of    such     fertilisers    as    that    of 
Messrs.  Clay,  for  instance 
(I    am    naming   this    as    a 
well-known  fertiliser  which 
serves    as    an    example    of 
a   most   useful    class),    will 
be  sufiicient  to  do  good  to 
most  alpines  which  need  it 
for  a  whole  year.      Dried, 
very  old  cow-manure  is  less 
powerful,  but  even  with  it 
a   mere    modicum    once    a 
year,   mixed  with  soil  and 
sand  as  already  mentioned, 
will  be  valuable  for  many 
plants,   but    would,  if   fre- 
quently     and      plentifully 
supplied,  prove  harmful  to 
the  flowers  we  wish  to  help. 
Bone-dust,  again,   as   indi- 
cated,   is    very    helpful    to 
many  things ;  but  its  nature 
is  harmful  to  some  plants 
whioh  object  to  lime,  and 
these    should    be    supplied 
with   some  other  manurial 
matter,    such   as    the    old 
cow-manure  suggested. 

That  this  manuring  is 
beneficial  may  be  seen  by  a 
few  experiments  with  estab- 
lished plants,  for  it  is  only 
these  which  may  be  bene- 
fited by  it.  For  example, 
old  plants  of  Campanula 
pusilla  may  be  improved 
almost  beyond  recognition 
by  giving  them  some  bone- 
dust  well  mixed  among 
the  leaves  and  watered  in. 
In  a  short  time  the  leaves 
are  more  healthy,  the  plant 
becomes  more  vigorous,  and 
the  flowers,  which  are  on 
taller  stems,  are  larger,  and 
the  entire  aspect  of  the 
plant  is  changed  for  the 
better.  It  is  only  right 
here  to  say  that  increased 
size  is  not  always  the  thing 
to  be  desired  with  alpines, 
but  if  we  find  they  do 
better  we  need  not  hesitate 
to  apply  the  most  beneficial 
treatment. 

A  useful  fertiliser  for 
alpine  flowers,  which  has 
been  employed  with  advan- 
tage   for    many    years    by 


a  specialist  is  composed  of  eighty  gallons  of 
water  in  which  has  been  dissolved  i(0  grains  of 
nitrate  of  lime,  90  grains  of  sulphate  of  magnesia 
and  the  same  quantity  of  nitrate  of  potash.  This  is 
applied  once  a  year  in  summer  to  the  alpines,  and  a 
little  extra  strength  in  the  solution  has  been  proved 
not  to  be  harmful  to  most  alpines.     In  applying 


cow-manure  it  should  be  dried  and  powdered  fine 
and  sprinkled  about  the  plants  in  spring,  or  mixed 
as  previously  suggested. 

The  whole  subject  of  manures  for  alpines  is 

one  of  considerable  importance,  and  its  further 

consideration  by  chemists  and  cultivators  would 

probably  be  helpful  and  would,  in  all  likelihood, 

be  a  great  service  to  growers 

of    alpine    plants    in    this 

'^-~.  country.  S.  Arnott. 


TH  E      ROSE 
GARDEN. 


ROSE 
W  IBEl 


THE   NEW   ROSE   BHBA   BBID.     (Natural  size.) 


NEW  HYBRID  TEA 
ROSE  RHEA  REID. 
IBERTY,  Richmond 
and  Rhea  Reid 
are  three  good 
dark  red  Roses 
that  were  much 
wanted  in  the 
Hybrid  Tea  class.  Not 
only  were  they  introduced 
in  the  above  order,  but 
they  are  improvements  one 
upon  the  other  so  far  as 
open  ground  eulttire  goes. 
It  is  difficult  to  select  a 
Rose  of  finer  growth  than 
Khea  Reid  or  one  more 
hardy.  Although  only  sent 
out  last  season,  it  has  stood 
an  indifferent  summer  and 
a  very  severe  winter  and 
spring.  It  is  scarcely  so 
deep  a  red  as  Liberty,-  but 
it  is  larger  and  fuller,  while 
in  growth  it  is  far  ahead 
and  to  all  appearances  much 
less  likely  to  die  back. 
Liberty  is  cut  up  almost  as 
badly  as  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant 
—one  of  its  parents— with 
us,  and  Richmond  has 
sufiered  ;  but  Rhea  Reid 
has  faced  the  frost  un- 
touched, and  we  experi- 
enced over  30°.  AH  three 
varieties  are  growing  side 
by  side.  As  a  red  Rose 
this  must  rai.k  very  high 
for  many  years.  It  is 
very  sweet-scented,  carried 
boldly  upright  and  lasts  a 
long  time.  The  deep  red 
of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
is  secured,  with  freedom  of 
growth  and  flower  found  in 
the  pick  of  the  Teas  and 
their  hybrids.  It  is  difii- 
cult  to  name  a  more  hardy 
and  all-round  useful  Rose. 
I  was  much  interested  in  it 
during  the  past  summer  and 
autumn,  while  under  glass 
it  has  gained  favour  month 
by  mouth.  A  small  plant 
in  front  of  me  now  carries 
six  flowers,  which  have 
been  more  or  less  open  for 
ten  days,  have  been  taken 
to  London  and  still  look 
promising  for  another  week 
or  so.  It  was  introduced  in 
the  spring  of  1908  by  the 
raiser  of  Richmond.  The 
last  named  is  perhaps  rather 
better  in  shape,  and  cer- 
tainly the  best  in  the  bud 
stage  or  even  when  half- 
opened. 

Sussex.  A.  P. 


192 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[April  17,  1909. 


G^RT>ENING      FOR     BEGINNERS. 


CARDEN  WORK  WKEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Sweet  Peas  that 
were  raised  in  pots  and  have  been 
properly  hardened  oft  may  be  planted 
out  now  in  the  South  and  Midlands. 
It  is  wise  to  plant  in  a  shallow  trench 
or  basin,  according  to  whether  they 
are  to  be  grown  in  rows  or  clumps,  as  this  will 
afford  slight  protection  from  cold  winds.   Further 


I. — A   SDITABLE    GROWTH    FOR    MAKING   INTDA 
CUTTING. 

protection,  should  the  weather  prove  very  cold,  can 
be  .afforded  by  placing  small,  twiggy  sticks  to  the 
plants,  and  these  will  also  answer  for  the  primary 
supports.  In  any  case  it  is  better  to  place  these 
small  sticks  in  position  first,  and  let  the  plants 
reach  the  tops  of  these  before  putting  in  the 
final  supports.  Those  sown  in  the  open  about 
the  middle  of  March  will  now  be  up  and  growing 
away  freely,  and  a  keen  watch  must  be  kejit  for 
slugs.  Dusting  around  and  over  the  plants  with 
sifted  coal -ashes  is  the  best  and  simplest  pre- 
ventive. Freely  stir  the  soil  between  growing 
bulbs  which  are  not  yet  in  flower  ;  any  that  are 
flowering  and  need  supports  should  have  small 
green  stakes  placed  against  them  and  the  flower- 
stems  neatly  tied  to  these.  A  good  bulbous  plant 
for  Rose-beds  is  Galtonia(Hvaointhus)  candioans. 
1'his  pushes  up  a  tall,  stout  flower-stem,  which  is 
clothed  in  autumn  with  white,  pendent,  bell- 
shaped  flowers.  The  bulbs  may  be  planted  about 
4  inches  deep  and  1  foot  apart  after  the  Rose 
pruning  is  completed. 

Veiji  table.  Garden. — Sow  more  culinary  Peas  to 
succeed  those  put  in  earlier.  Slugs  are  very 
fond  of  tlie  young  plants,  which  should  be 
protected  with  coal-ashes  as  advised  for  Sweet 
Peas.  Also  make  other  sowings  of  Cabbages, 
Cauliflowers  and  Broccoli  for  autumn  use.  Kales, 
Savoys  and  Spring  Broccoli  may  be  left  until 
the  end  of  the  month.  Onions  that  have  been 
raised  in  frames  and  thoroughly  hardened  oft'  may 
now  be  planted  out,  especially  if  they  have  to  be 
lifted  from  boxes  or  pans,  as  small  plants  take  to 
the  soil  better  than   large  ones.      It  is  a  good 

Elan  to  dip  the  roots  in  a  thick  puddle  of  soil 
efore  planting  ;  those  in  pots  will,  of  course, 
move  without  the  above  precaution  being 
necessary.  Plant  from  4  inches  to  6  inches  apart 
in  rows  10  inches  asunder,  unless  the  bulbs  are 
required  for  exhibition,  when  allow  twice  the 
distance  between  the  plants  and  make  the  rows 
15  inches  apart.  Make  the  soil  firm  around  the 
roots.  A  general  planting  of  second  early 
Potatoes  should  now  be  made  ;  18  inches  between 
the  rows  and  from  1  foot  to  15  inches  between 
the  plants  is  a  suitable  distance  to  observe.  I 
prefer  taking  a  hole  out  with  a  spade  for  each  set, 


as  this  is  infinitely  better  in  most  soils  than  using 
a  dibber. 

Fruit  Qarde.n. — Vines  in  ordinary  greenhouses 
will  now  be  growing  freely,  and  care  must  be 
taken  to  maintain  the  atmosphere  of  the  house 
in  a  moist  condition.  Syringe  the  plants  every 
morning  and  afternoon,  and  shut  the  house  up 
about  3  p.m.,  so  as  to  husband  the  sun-heat. 
Ventilation  must  be  carefully  done,  so  as  to  avoid 
draughts.  In  earlier  Vines,  where  the  bunches 
have  formed  pinch  the  shoot  back  to  within  two 
leaves  of  the  bunch,  and  so  concentrate  the 
energies  of  the  plant  to  the  fruit.  Outdoor  Vines 
will  now  be  sprouting,  and  it  will  ba  necessary  to 
limit  the  side  or  lateral  shoots  to  one  to  each 
spur,  leaving  the  strongest  and  best-placed  one  of 
i.he  two  that  will  come  if  pruning  was  properly 
done. 

Oretuhoum  and  Frames.  — Now  that  the  weather 
is  warmer,  green  fly  will  be  increasing  rapidly, 
and  to  keep  it  in  check  it  will  be  necessary  to 
vaporise  at  least  once  a  fortnight.  There  are 
many  excellent  vaporising  substances  and  appa- 
ratus now  on  the  market,  and  the  beginner  in 
gardening  should  obtain  some  of  tliese.  It  the 
directions  supplied  with  them  are  faithfully 
carried  out  they  are  perfectly  safe  and  effective. 
The  popular  winter-flowering  Begonias,  such  as 
Gloire  de  Lorraine,  that  were  cut  down  after 
flowering  will  by  now  have  made  new  growths 
some  3  inches  long,  and  these  make  excellent 
cuttings  for  perpetuating  the  stock.  Cut  each 
squarely  beneath  a  joint,  trim  off  the  lower 
leaves  and  insert  them  firmly  in  a  mixture  of 
loa,m,  peat  and  silver  sand  in  equal  proportions 
and  finely  sifted.  Then  plunge  in  a  deep  box, 
partly  filled  with  Cocoanut  fibre  refuse,  in  the 
warmest  corner  of  the  greenhouse,  and  cover  with 
a  pane  of  glass  ;  this  forms  a  rough  but  useful 
propagating  case.  Water  very  carefully  until 
the  cuttings  have  rooted.  H. 


a  mulching  of  thoroughly  rotted  manure  and 
frequent  waterings  will  be  of  the  greatest  assist- 
ance. If  these  details  are  attended  to,  and  the 
pods  are  kept  closely  picked  as  they  become 
ready,  the  plants  will  continue  to  crop  over  a 
long  period. 

Varieties  are  now  numerous  and  good,  and  it 
is  most  difficult  to  make  a  selection  without 
leaving  out  some  excellent  sorts.  They  are 
represented  by  three  distinct  types,  viz. ,  Climbing 
(not  the  ordinary  Scarlet  Runners)  ;  Waxpod  or 
Butter  Beans,  some  of  which  are  also  climbing  ; 
and  the  ordinary  dwarf  French  Bean.  In  the 
first  section,  Webb's  Excelsior,  Tender  and  True, 
Veitch's  Climbing  and  Carter's  Successor  are  all 
superb.  Of  Butter  Beans,  Sutton's  Golden  Wax- 
pod,  Webb's  new  Stringless  Dwarf  and  Mont 
d'Or,  a  climbing  variety,  can  be  recommended. 
Of  the  ordinary  dwarf  French  Beans,  Sutton's 
Superlative,  Webb's  New  Abundance,  Canadian 
Wonder  and  Sutton's  Evergreen  are  first-class, 
and  the  beginner  may  select  from  the  above 
without  hesitation. 


HOW  TO  GROW  GOOD  FRENCH  BEANS. 
THf;KE  is  scarcely  a  household  in  the  country 
where  a  good  dish  of  well-grown  French  Beans  is 
not  welcome,  and  as  the  plants  are  comparatively 
easy  to  cultivate  to  a  high  state  of  perfection, 
they  are  just  the  thing  for  the  beginner  in 
gardening  to  try  his  'prentice  hand  on.  As  for 
all  other  crops,  a  deeply  worked  soil  is  essential, 
and  if  this  has  been  moderately  well  manured  so 
much  the  better  ;  good  results  cannot  be  expected 
from  ground  that  is  poor  and  shallow. 

Where  a  cold  frame  is  available,  seeds  may  be 
sown  therein  at  once,  as  by  so  doing  plants  that 
will  crop  a  week  or  two  earlier  than  those  sown 
in  the  open  will  be  obtained.  Sow  in  4J-inoh 
pots,  two  seeds  in  each,  or  even  in  boxes  3  inches 
deep,  and  keep  the  plants  perfectly  cool  and 
well  ventilated  until  planting-out  time,  which 
will  be  about  the  end  of  the  second  week 
in  May. 

It  is  of  little  use  attempting  to  sow  in  the  open 
until  the  end  of  April  or  the  first  week  in  May, 
as  the  plants  cannot  stand  the  slightest  frost. 
For  the  dwarf  varieties  18  inches  is  a  good 
distance  apart  to  make  the  rows,  allowing  1  foot 
to  15  inches  between  the  plants ;  but  for  climbing 
ports  the  rows  will  need  to  be  4  feet  asunder. 
Sow  two  or  three  seeds  at  each  station,  and  when 
the  plants  are  well  up  thin  to  one  at  each  place. 
Slugs  are  exceedingly  fond  of  the  young  plants, 
which  must  be  freely  dusted  when  the  leaves  are 
damp  with  coal-ashes  to  prevent  devastation 
by  these  pests.  As  growth  advances,  routine 
work  will  consist  of  hoeing  between  the  rows 
frequently,  and   should  the  weather  prove  dry 


SPRING  PROPAGATION  OF  TRICOLOUR 
AND  VARIEGATED  FOLIAGED  ZONAL 
PELARGONIUMS  (GERANIUMS). 
Before  hardy  flowers  became  so  popular  for 
embellishing  our  gardens,  the  tricolourGeraniums, 
as  they  were  then  called,  as  well  as  other  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  with  variegated  foliage,  were  much 
sought  after  and  highly  esteemed  by  those  who 
desired  to  make  the  most  of  their  gardens  during 
the  summer  months.  Although  these  plants  are 
not  so  eagerly  desired  as  they  were  in  the  earlier 
days  referred  to,  there  are  still  many  who  would 
regard  their  display  as  incomplete  without  a 
representation  of  a  few  of  the  better  sorts.  A 
matter  for  congratulation  is  the  fact  that  the 
flowers  of  these  plants  are  much  better  than  they 
were  when  the  richly  coloured  foliage  of  the 
tricolour  and  variegated  sorts  were  regarded 
with  favour  chiefly  on  account  of  their  foliage 


^^ 


i^. 


2. — THE  SAME  GROWTH  PREPARED  FOR  INSER- 
TION. NOTE  THAT  IT  IS  CUT  THROUGH 
BENEATH  A  JOINT  AND  THE  LOWER  LEAVES 
REMOVED. 

alone.  Many  growers  now  prefer  cultivating  the 
plants  for  greenhouse  [and  conservatory  embel- 
lishment. 

We  now  have  to  raise  a  stock  of  plants,  and  if 
we  are  to  achieve  any  real  success  we  must 
proceed  without  delay  to  get  in  a  supply  of 
cuttings  of  a  desirable  kind.  The  beginner 
should  remember  that  the  days  are  now  lengthen- 
ing to  a  very  appreciable  degree,  and  the  sun  is 
attaining  greater  power  in  consequence.  These 
are  factors  in  propagation  that  tend  to  success, 
and   full  advantage  should  be  taken  of  them. 


April  17,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


193 


3. — A   YOtJNO   ROOVED   PLANT  GBOWINfi   IN   A 
3-INCH  POT. 

Within  the  last  few  weeks  our  old  plants  have 
made  very  satisfactory  growth,  and  many  of 
them  have  developed  shoots  that  should  make 
ideal  cuttings.  A  careful  inspection  of  the  old 
plants  will  reveal  many  sturdy,  short-jointed 
growths  of  the  character  shown  in  Fig.  1.  To 
insert  the  growth  just  as  it  is  represented  in  the 
illustration  would  be  to  court  failure.  An 
inspection  of  the  first  illustration  shows  what  a 
large  number  of  unnecessary  leaves  are  present 
on  che  shoot.  These  leaves  must  be  reduced  and 
the  bracts  that  adhere  to  the  stem  of  the  cutting 
be  removed.  A  careful  comparison  between 
Figs.  1  and  2  will  give  a  very  good  idea  how  the 
cuttings  should  be  prepared  before  inserting 
them  in  suitable  soil. 

The  prepared  cutting  in  Fig.  2  is  the  same  growth 
as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  cuttings  should  not  be 
too  long ;  4  inches  is  a  good  length.  A  sharp 
knife  must  be  used  to  prepare  them,  and  after 
cutting  through  the  stem  below  a  joint  the  lower 
leaves  should  be  removed  in  their  entirety  and 
the  bracts  taken  off  to  complete  the  operation. 
Equal  parts  of  good  fibrous  loam,  leaf-mould  and 
coarse  silver  sand,  or,  failing  this,  clean  road 
grit,  and  this  passed  through  a  sieve  with  a  half- 
inch  mesh,  will  make  a  very  excellent  soil  for 
striking  cuttings  in.  These  ingredients  should 
be  well  mixed  before  using.  If  first-class  plants 
are  desired,  by  all  means  insert  the  cuttings 
singly  in  2J-inoh  or  3-inch  pots.  These  pots 
should  be  washed  quite  clean  and  thoroughly 
dried.  Clock  with  pieces  of  broken  potsherd  or 
broken  oyster  shells,  covering  the  hole  with  a 
curved  piece  of  either  material.  A  few  smaller 
pieces  should  be  placed  over  this,  then  a  small 
quantity  of  the  rougher  sittings  of  the  soil,  and, 
finally,  fill  in  to  the  rim  of  the  pot  with  the 
prepared  compost.  The  latter  should  be  just 
moist  enough  so  that  with  a  little  pressure  of  the 
hands  it  holds  together,  but  which  readily  falls 
to  pieces  when  dropped  on  the  potting- bench. 
With  a  small  dibber  about  the  size  of  an 
ordinary  lead  pencil  make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of 
the  pottul  of  soil  about  IJ  inches  deep.  Place  a 
pinch  of  silver  sand  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole 
and  then  insert  the  cutting,  taking  care  that 
this  rests  on  the  soil  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole 
made  for  its  reception.  A  smart  rap  on  the 
potting-bench  will  settle  the  soil,  and  with  a 
firming  of  the  compost  by  the  aid  of  the  thumbs 
round  the  edge  of  the  pot  the  operation  will  be 


completed.  Water  overhead  with  clear  water  from 
a  fine-rosed  can  to  settle  thesoil  round  theeuttings. 
Place  the  pots  of  cuttings  in  a  glass  house  where 
the  temperature  can  be  maintained  at  about  55°  to 
60°.  In  such  conditions  they  will  root  in  a  week 
or  two.  Avoid  keeping  the  surface  soil  wet 
while  that  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  is  dry.  The 
soil  should  be  just  moist  throughout ;  if  too 
wet  the  cuttings  will  damp  off. 

It  will  then  be  necessary  in  a  little  while  to 
transfer  the  rooted  cuttings  to  shelves  near 
the  glass,  where  a  free  circulation  of  air  will 
encourage  a  sturdy  form  of  growth  and  the 
foundation  of  bushy  plants  be  carefully  laid,  as 
seen  in  Fig.  3.  When  nicely  rooted  some  growers 
pinch  out  the  points  of  the  growths  to  induce  the 
plants  to  make  a  bushy  form  of  growth.  In  a 
little  while  the  young  plants  will  fill  their  small 
pots  with  roots,  making  it  necessary  to  repot 
them  in  those  measuring  4J  inches  in  diameter. 
The  soil  for  this  repotting  should  consist  of  two 
parts  fibrous  loam,  half  a  part  of  leaf-mould  and 
one  part  coarse  silver  sand  or  road  grit.  Break 
up  the  loam,  &c.,  thoroughly,  mix  well  and 
this  will  then  suffice.  Fig.  4  shows  the  plant 
in  a  forty-eight  [(4^  -  inch)  pot  after  the 
repotting.  D.  B.  C. 

POTTING  TUBEROUS  BEGONIAS. 
Those  to  be  used  for  summer  bedding  will  not 
require  shifting  on  into  larger  pots.  Those, 
however,  which  are  to  be  grown  in  pots  for  the 
decoration  of  the  greenhouse  should  be  potted 
into  larger  pots  when  those  in  which  they  are 
already  growing  are  becoming  well  filled  with 
roots.  Suitable  sizes  of  pots  in  which  to  flower 
the  plants  are  those  6  inches  or  7  inches  in 
diameter.  A  mixture  of  two  parts  loam,  one 
part  leaf-mould,  with  a  little  well-decayed  cow- 
manure  and  sand  added  is  a  suitable  compost  for 
the  final  potting. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


We  may  reasonably  expect  the  weather  to  be 
much  milder  in  the  middle  of  April  than  in  the 
middle  of  March.  It  has  been  impossible  to 
attend  to  certain  work  in  the  garden  as  it  ought 
to  be  attended  to,  and  consequently  there  will  be 
more  to  do  now  than  is  usual  at  this  season. 
The  town  gardener  will  be  very  busy,  as  he 
always  wishes  to  have  a  bright  display  of  blossom 
as  early  as  possible  in  spring  and  also  to  get  the 
necessary  work  forward  in  connexion  with  the 
summer  bedding-out. 

The  Garden  Frame. — Every  garden  frame 
must  be  made  as  much  use  of  as  possible  at  the 
present  time.  Even  a  roughly  made  one  is  very 
useful.  Tender  seedlings  are  thus  protected, 
and  they  continue  to  grow  steadily  ;  then,  when 
the  weather  is  really  warm  and  growth  of  all 
kinds  is  free,  that  of  protected  frame  plants  is 
also  up-to-date.  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  Helio- 
trope, Ageratum,  Lobelia,  Gazanias,  Mimulus, 
Salvias  and  half-hardy  annuals  are  the  principal 
kinds  of  plants  that  the  town  gardener  must 
keep  carefully  protected  in  frames.  Where 
boxes,  pans  and  flower-pots  are  plentiful,  the 
seedlings  ought  to  be  grown  in  them,  because  it 
is  then  very  convenient  to  transfer  certain  plants 
from  one  frame  to  another,  or  even  to  place  them 
in  the  open  air  as  required,  while  other  kinds  are 
left  under  the  protection  of  the  frame.  Where 
all  are  planted  out  in  beds  in  a  frame,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  expose  all  alike  when  the  hardening 
process  commences.  Do  not  hesitate  on  this 
account,  however,  to  put  out  the  seedlings  in 
prepared  beds  in  the  frame.  Use  good  loam  and 
sweet  leaf-soil  in  equal  proportions  and  sufficient 
sand  to  make  it  all  porous.  Also  be  sure  to 
make  the  compost  moderately  firm.  At  first  the 
tiny  seedlings  will  not  appear  to  grow  rapidly  on 
account  of  the  firmness  of  the  rooting  medium  ; 
but  later  on  they  will  grow  well  and  make  very 
good  plants,  being  robust  and  bushy,  and  such 


are  the  best  for  planting  out  in  the  flower 
garden. 

Sowing  Seeds  ok  Hakdy  Annuals. — Having 
duly  prepared  the  outside  beds  for  the  reception 
of  the  seeds,  sow  some  of  the  latter  at  once. 
The  resultant  plants  blossom  where  the  seeds  were 
sown,  so  that  it  is  advisable  to  have  the  tallest- 
growing  kinds  near  the  back  of  the  border,  the 
medium  in  the  centre  and  the  dwarf  in  front. 
Clumps  of  plants  are  the  most  effective,  and  these 
should  vary  in  width  from  1  foot  to  3  feet  across, 
according  to  the  kinds  being  grown.  Sow  the 
large  seeds  deeper  than  the  small  ones,  and, 
though  it  is  advisable  to  sow  fairly  thickly  on 
account  of  probable  loss  through  the  ravages  of 
slugs,  thinning  out  must  be  done  in  good  time, 
that  is,  before  the  plants  get  overcrowded.  The 
following  are  suitable  kinds  to  sow  :  Calliopsis, 
Clarkias,  Chrysanthemums  (annual).  Convolvulus 
minor  for  beds  and  C.  major  for  climbing, 
Cornflowers,  Esehseholtzias,  Godetias,  Jacobea, 
annual  Larkspurs,  Linums,  Love-lies-Bleeding, 
Linarias,  Lupinus,  Night-scented  Stock(Matthiola 
bicornis).  Mignonette,  Nasturtiums,  Poppies, 
Sweet  Sultans,  Virginian  Stock  and  Sunflowers. 

Runner  Beans. — There  are  many  bare  walls 
and  fences  in  town  gardens,  and  it  is  often  a 
matter  of  much  difficulty  to  decide  how  such  can 
be  suitably  covered  in  a  very  short  time  with 
climbing  plants.  Of  course,  there  are  plenty  of 
suitable  climbing  plants  which  are  permanent, 
but  it  takes  time  to  get  the  whole  of  the  walls 
covered  with  their  branches.  Such  plants  may 
be  put  in  next  autumn,  but  in  the  meantime  the 
walls  would  remain  bare  unless  a  quick-growing 
climber  is  put  in.  Sweet  Peas  are  very  suitable 
in  many  instances,  and  so  also  are  Runner  Beans. 
In  sunny  positions  the  plants  not  only  grow 
freely  and  cover  the  walls  with  very  handsome 
leaves,  but  they  bear  flowers  and  pods  in  pro- 
fusion, and  are  thus  both  ornamental  and  useful. 
It  is  rather  too  early  to  sow  many  seeds  ;  a  fort- 
night hence  will  do  where  the  positions  are  cold 
and  draughty,  but  in  the  sheltered  spots  put  in 
some  seeds  at  once.  The  chief  object  being  to 
secure  plenty  of  healthy  leaves  which  will  serve 
as  a  screen,  it  will  be  advisable  to  mix  a  nice 
quantity  of  well-rotted  manure  with  the  soil  so 
as  to  promote  a  rapid  growth  of  foliage.  The 
plants  may  be  supported  by  strands  of  string  or 
sticks.  Avox. 


'^^^ 


-A    LABGEB    PLANT    POTTED    INTO   A  4J-INCH 
POT. 


194 


THE    GARDEN. 


[April  17,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND  SOUTH 

MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

NEWLY-PLANTED  TREES  AND 
SHRUBS  should  be  made  secure 
against  damage  by  wind  and  the 
soil  over  and  about  the  roots  made 
firm  when  in  a  suitable  condition, 
after  which  slightly  loosen  the 
surface  and  follow  with  a  good  mulching  of  short 
manure.  Large,  choice  specimens  will  benefit 
greatly  if  syrmged  two  or  three  times  daily  in 
bright  weather  and  afforded  protection  from  the 
strong  sunshine  till  the  roots  have  taken  to  the 
new  soil  ;  watch  them  carefully  should  we 
experience  a  spell  of  dry  weather,  and  water 
thoroughly  if  necessary.  Rhododendrons  and 
Hollies  may  still  be  planted  successfully,  care 
being  taken  to  have  the  stations  prepared  and  the 
planting  done  as  quickly  as  possible,  so  that  the 
roots  may  not  be  exposed  longer  than  is  really 
necessary. 

Vases.  — Plants  for  vases  should  be  grown  on  to 
a  good  size  in  pots,  so  that  when  planting-time 
arrives  large  vases  may  be  quickly  filled  and  the 
effect  almost  immediately  produced.  Helio- 
tropes, Fuchsias  in  variety,  Pelargoniums  and 
Marguerites  make  capital  plants  for  this  purpose. 
Propagation.— Vaah  on  the  increasing  of  all 
kinds  of  plants  of  which  there  is  likely  to  be  an 
insufficient  (juantity.  Box  off'  Lobelias,  Iresines, 
Verbenas  and  other  seedlings  before  they  get 
spindling  and  weak  by  overcrowding.  Harden  off 
as  fast  as  possible  Pelargoniums  and  other  plants 
that  have  made  good  headway  in  heat ;  when 
transferred  to  the  cold  frames  cover  up  well  at 
night  if  there  is  likely  to  be  any  frost,  and  give 
air  very  carefully  till  the  plants  have  become 
hardened. 

Fruit  (i.^RDEN. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  — Where  these  have  been 
heavily  protected  a  partial  removal  of  the  protect- 
ing material  may  now  take  place,  providing  the 
weather  is  mild,  but  do  not  dispense  entirely 
with  the  protection  until  all  danger  of  late  frost 
is  past.  As  soon  as  the  young  growth  is  about 
2  inches  long,  a  few  of  the  iront  shoots  and 
those  behind  the  wood  may  be  removed.  Dis- 
budding, however,  at  this  early  period  (outside) 
must  be  done  with  great  care  and  judgment, 
only  removing  a  few  here  and  there  where  the 
shoots  are  very  thick.  Be  careful  at  all  times  to 
preserve  the  best-placed  growths  for  filling  up 
space  and  for  fruiting  next  season.  Disbudding 
must  extend  over  a  long  period  and  should  never 
be  too  severely  carried  out  at  any  one  time. 
Examine  the  borders  where  the  trees  are  pro- 
tected with  glass  coping,  and  water  if  required. 
The  soil  in  which  wall  trees  are  growing  is  very 
deceiving  at  times,  and  is  apt  to  get  much  too 
dry  to  be  good  for  the  trees.  If  green  aphis 
puts  in  an  appearance,  as  soon  as  the  fruits  are 
set  syringe  well  with  Quassia  Extract,  which  is 
one  of  the  safest  insecticides  when  the  fruits  are 
small. 

Figs. — If  not  already  pruned  as  advised,  these 
may  now  receive  attention.  Be  careful  to 
preserve  sturdy,  fruitful  shoots,  and  shorten  only 
those  not  required  to  produce  shoots  for  another 
year.  Trees  in  good  bearing  on  south  walls 
will  be  all  the  better  for  a  good  top-dressing  with 
fresh,  sweet  soil. 

Kitchen  Garden. 
Carrots.  — The  main  crop  of  these  should  now 
be  sown  on  well-tilled  land  ;  sow  the  seed  thinly 
iu  drills  I  inch  deep  and  12  inches  to  14  inches 
from  row  to  row.  The  varieties  are  numerous, 
but  I  generally  depend  on  Nantes,  Intermediates 
and  Altrineham  ;  the  latter,  although  long,  is 
small  cored  and  of  good  flavour.     If  the  ground 


is  in  good  condition  there  will  be  little  to  be 
done  in  the  way  of  preparing  the  beds,  a  good 
Takeover  and  a  dressing  with  soot  sufficing. 

Beetroots  may  now  be  sown.  The  land  for  this 
crop  should  be  well  worked,  but  need  not  be  too 
rich  to  encourage  coarseness.  Sow  the  seed  in 
drills  IS  inches  apart  and  2  inches  deep. 

Onions.  —  The  land  for  these  has  been  in 
a  very  wet  and  bad  state,  consequently  sowing 
has  been  much  delayed,  but  good  Onions  may  be 
grown  from  seed  sown  any  time  in  April.  <iood 
dressings  of  soot  and  wood-ashes  will  prove 
highly  beneficial  to  the  crop,  and  the  land  should 
be  rich  and  firm.  Plants  raised  from  seed  sown 
in  boxes  and  forwarded  in  heat  may  be  trans- 
planted. H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR  THE  NORTH  AND  NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Pleasure    Grounds. 

Lawns  and  Verges. — Through  bad  drainage, 
excessive  humidity  of  the  district  or  poverty  of 
the  soil,  grass  areas  at  this  season  often  present 
an  appearance  the  reverse  of  pleasing.  Where  moss 
largely  prevails,  the  whole  surface  may  be  first 
scarified  with  a  well-worn  iron  rake,  which  will 
remove  a  considerable  portion  of  objectionable 
matter  without  unduly  damaging  the  grasses. 
After  sweeping,  grass  seeds  may  be  sown  in 
quantities  in  accordance  with  requirements  and 
be  covered  with  finely  sifted  soil,  with  which 
bone-meal,  superphosphate,  or  some  other  slow- 
acting  approved  kind  of  manure  has  been  incor- 
porated, spreading  it  evenly  and  working;  it  about 
the  crowns  of  the  existing  plants,  finishing  off 
by  passing  a  heavy  roller  over  all.  Birds  are  apt 
to  be  troublesome,  but  if  means  are  at  hand,  by 
way  of  a  hose-pipe,  to  keep  the  surface  moist  for 
a  few  days,  their  attentions  are  tliereby  discounted 
and  germination  of  the  seed  is  accelerated. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 

Vineries. — Where  late  Hamburghs  are  a  spe- 
ciality the  Vines  may  be  allowed  to  advance  at 
will,  but  houses  containing  all  other  varieties 
should  now  be  closed  early  in  the  afternoon  to  hus- 
band sun-heat,  and  the  rods  as  well  as  the  interior 
parts  of  the  structures  be  syringed^or  sprinkled  to 
generate  a  moist  atmosphere,  thus  assisting  the 
buds  to  break  freely  and  evenly.  Early  started 
Vines  will  require  frequent  attention  to  regulate 
growth  ;  never  allow  this  to  get  so  tar  in 
advance  that  much  has  to  be  removed  at  one 
time,  thereby  occasioning  a  check  to  the  roots. 
Damping  the  border  and  pathways  at  closing- 
time  with  diluted  liquid  from  the  farmyard,  or 
a  slight  sprinkling  of  the  same  with  concentrated 
Vine  manure,  will  add  vigour  and  lustre  to  the 
foliage  and  prove  inimical  to  insect  pests.  Thin- 
ning of  the  berries  should  be  undertaken  when 
these  are  the  size  of  Mustard  seed,  and  although 
at  the  best  a  tedious  operation,  a  careful  study 
of  the  varieties  and  the  size  attained  by  the  indi- 
vidual berries  in  former  years  will  give  confidence 
in  working  which  favours  good  workmanship  and 
expedition. 

Planting  ''''ines.  —  This  where  contemplated 
may  now  be  done,  providing  the  border  has  been 
suftioiently  long  completed  to  have  become  con- 
solidated and  the  plants  are  visibly  making  growth. 
Plants  grown  fi  om  eyes  this  season  ana  planted 
out  before  they  become  in  any  way  confined  at 
the  roots  are  undoubtedly  best ;  but  as  few  places 
have  convenience  for  doing  this,  one  year  old 
plants  are  resorted  to.  These  grown  in  slight 
warmth  until  the  buds  show  signs  of  breaking 
are  then  in  good  order  for  planting,  which  is 
done  by  shaking  away  the  greater  part  of  the  soil 
from  the  roots,  preserving  the  more  fibrous  of 
these  and  severing  any  of  undue  length.  Plant 
firmly  and  cover  the  roots  with  at  least  2  inches 
of  soil,  and  use  tepid  water  more  or  less  in 
accordance  with  the  state  of  the  border.  After- 
wards make  the  most  of  sun-heat,  assisted   by 


artificial  means,  to  maintain  a  humid  tempera- 
ture of  about  .').'>'  to  fiO°,  with  a  considerable 
rise  by  day. 

Flowering  Plants. 

Primulas  and  Cinerarias. — For  autumn  flower- 
ing some  seeds  of  each  should  be  sown,  using  for 
the  purpose  pans  nearly  filled  with  a  light, 
free-working  compost,  and  cover  the  seeds 
slightly.  Place  in  a  warm  house,  cover  with 
a  pane  of  glass  and  shade  from  sunlight  until  the 
seedlings  appear.  The  compact,  large-flowering 
types  of  both  are  best  for  early  use,  while  the 
stellata  sections  are  excellent  for  spring  and 
may  be  sown  later  on. 

Hardy  Annuals. — Frequent  sowings  of  these 
are  preferable  to  one,  which  is  apt  to  give  a 
flush  of  bloom,  followed  by  a  dearth  before  the 
season  is  past.  Sow  thinly  in  rows  or  patches 
in  well-pulverised  soil,  guard  against  slugs  in 
damp  weather,  and  if  necessary  thin  out  the 
seedlings  before  they  become  crowded. 

Half-hardy  Annuals. — Salpiglossis,  Schizan- 
thus,  Nemesia  and  several  other  excellent  border 
flowers  raised  in  boxes  should  be  pricked  out  in 
frames  before  they  become  drawn,  and  when 
established  be  gradually  exposed  preparatory  to 
permanent  planting.        James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Calloway  House,  Oarliestoii,  Wigtownshire. 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Odontoglossuji  percultum  Cookson's  variety. 
The  large,  massive  flowers  of  this  variety  are  of 
a  dull  violet  purple  hue,  this  being  marbled  and 
blotched  with  white,  the  reverse  of  the  segments 
having  a  preponderance  of  creamy  white.  The 
labellum  is  rather  broad  and  has  yellow  and  dull 
scarlet  splashes  at  its  base.  Shown  by  N.  C. 
Cookson,  Esq.     First-class  certificate. 

Odontoglosaum  Sylvia  Westonbirt  variety.  — This 
is  a  very  prettily  and  distinctly  marked  form, 
the  star-like  flowers  being  pale  creamy  yellow, 
heavily  blotched  with  large  masses  of  brownish 
crimson  hue.  The  labellum  is  of  a  much  richer 
yellow  colour,  and  at  the  base  this  is  marked 
with  rich  crimson  blotches.  At  the  apex  the 
clear  yellow  is  unsullied.  Shown  by  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Holford,  C.V.O.,  G.I.E.  First-class 
certificate. 

Oilontioda  Ernest  Henry. — This  is  quite  the 
deepest-coloured  member  of  these  bi-geueric 
hybrids  that  we  have,  and  although  the  flowers 
are  rather  small  and  of  poor  shape,  they  are 
remarkable  for  their  colouring,  which  is"  very 
rich  dull  crimson,  the  small  labellum  having 
orange  yellow  markings.  Shown  by  H.  S. 
Goodson,  Esq.,  Fairlawn,  Putney.  First-class 
certificate. 

Catlleya  Schriidenf  The  Baron. — The  sepals 
and  petals  of  this  fine  variety  are  pure  white, 
the  large  labellum  having  a  white  margin,  then 
a  (juarter-ineh  wide  band  of  bright  rosy  mauve, 
this  being  followed  by  rich  orange  yellow,  which 
extends  well  into  the  throat,  where  another  narrow 
band  of  even  brighter  mauve  makes  its  appear- 
ance. In  addition  the  flowers  are  of  good  size 
and  form.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford, 
C.V.O.,  C.I.E.,  Westonbirt,  Gloucestershire. 
First-class  certificate. 

Gattleya  iSchrtidera'  Irene. — This  is  a  very  large 
and  beautiful  form  of  a  popular  and  well-known 
Orchid,  being  of  a  much  deeper  mauve  colour 
than  the  type.  The  throat  is  marked  with 
clear  and  very  rich  orange  yellow,  thus  giving 
the  flower  a  most  attractive  appearance.  Shown 
by  Mr.  A.  Jensen,  Lindfield,  Sussex.  Award  of 
merit. 

Odontoglossum  Dreadnought. — This  is  one  of 
the  very  dark-coloured  hybrids  of  which  now 
many  exist.  The  flowers  are  large  and  of 
moderately  good  form,  the  sepals  and  petals 
being  of  a  rich  glossy  brown  colour,  the  two 
petals  having  rich  yellow  markings  at  their 
bases,  and  slight  flakes  of  the  same  colour  appear 
on  their  margins.    The  labellum  is  yellow,  marked 


April  17,  1909.  | 


THE    GARDEN. 


195 


with  brown,  the  pale  yellow  column  being  a  eon- 
spiouous  feature.  The  plant  shown  had  one  long 
raceme  composed  of  thirteen  fully  developed 
flowers.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons, 
St.  Albans.     Award  of  merit. 

Odontoglossum  crispum  Angela. — This,  again, 
is  a  very  richly  coloured  flower,  the  markings 
and  shape  of  the  flower  being  very  regular.  The 
pinkish  white  ground  colour  is  very  freely 
marked  with  large  blotches  of  dull  pale  crimson, 
the  labellum  having  a  conspicuous  yellow  blotch 
at  its  base.  Shown  by  N.  C.  Cookson,  Esq., 
Oakwood,  Wylam.     Award  of  merit. 

Catthya  SchrOdera;  Miss  Alexandra  James. — 
The  sepals  and  petals  of  this  variety  are  almost 
but  not  quite  pure  white,  a  faint  flushing  of 
pink  showing  through.  The  labellum  is  of  the 
same  colour,  with  the  usual  rich  yellow  patch 
extending  well  down  the  throat.  Shown  by  W. 
James,  Esq.,  West  Dean  Park,  Chichester. 
Award  of  merit. 

Lmlio-Gattleya  Frederick  BoyU  Kf.rchovice. — 
A  very  clear  and  refined-looking  flower  with 
long,  narrow  and  acutely  pointed  sepals  and 
broader  petals,  the  former  being  pale  blush  and 
the  latter  white.  The  labellum,  too,  is  very  pale 
blush  colour,  with  rich  golden  yellow  in  the 
throat.  Shown  by  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart., 
Dorking.     Award  of  merit. 

Hippeastrum  Magnificent.  — A  very  fine  crimson- 
coloured  variety,  in  which  the  tips  of  the  petals 
merge  into  a  creamy  white.  It  is  both  showy 
and  distinct.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Robert  Ker 
and  Son,  Liverpool.     Award  of  merit. 

Hippeastrum  Marsus. — The  flowers  of  this 
superb  variety  are  intense  crimson  in  colour, 
shading  into  maroon  in  the  interior  of  the  flower. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  J.  Veiteh  and  Sons,  Limited, 
Chelsea.     Award  of  merit. 

Saxijraga  apiculata  alba. — This  should  prove 
an  invaluable  plant  for  the  rock  garden  or 
alpine  house,  being  a  counterpart  of  the  type 
save  in  colour.  The  variety  occurred  simul- 
taneously in  both  branches  of  the  Guildford 
Hardy  Plant  Nurseries,  a  rather  unusual  circum- 
stance we  imagine  in  the  case  of  so  well  marked 
a  plant.  The  flowers  are  pure  white  and  borne 
profusely  on  3-inch  high  stems.  The  habit  is  free 
and  excellent.  Shown  by  the  Guildford  Hardy 
Plant  Nurseries  (A.  R.  Upton,  proprietor). 
Award  of  merit. 

Neiw  Rhubarb  Dawes'  Challenge. — This  splendid 
Rhubarb  was  shown  before  the  fruit  and 
vegetable  committee  last  year,  when  they  did 
not  consider  it  worthy  of  an  award  ;  but  being 
shown  in  suoh  grand  condition  again  this  year,  it 
was  duly  honoured.  The  stout,  solid,  bright  red 
sticks  are  some  2  feet  in  length  and  are  produced 
in  great  profusion,  and  undoubtedly  it  is  a 
splendid  acquisition  to  the  forcing  varieties 
which  already  exist.  The  plants  and  sticks 
shown  had  been  grown  in  the  open,  with  protee- 
tion,  and  were  certainly  very  fine.  We  have 
tasted  this  variety,  and  its  flavour  is  as  good  as 
its  looks.  Shown  by  Mr.  J.  E.  Dawes,  King's 
Lynn.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  6th  inst.,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


LEGAL     POINTS. 

Removing  trees  [Olory  de  Lorraine).— 
It  is  clearly  settled  that  at  common  law  the 
occupant  of  an  ordinary  house  cannot  remove 
trees  and  shrubs  he  has  planted,  although  he  can 
remove  certain  other  fixtures  before  the  termina- 
tion of  his  tenancy.  If,  however,  it  has  been 
agreed  in  writing  that  the  holding  shall  be  let 
or  treated  as  a  market  garden,  the  tenant  can 
remove  all  fruit  trees  and  fruit  bushes  planted  by 
him  on  the  holding  not  permanently  set  out,  and, 
as  regards  those  permanently  set  out,  although 
he  has  no  right  of  removal,  he  can  claim  compen- 
sation under  the  1895  and  later  Acts. 


ANSWERS 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS. 

RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TA*  Editor  inUnds 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  iw  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  truly 
he.  and  with  that  object  mill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions shoxdd  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
Garden,  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  oiie  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Water  Lilies  from  seeds  (Fuisack, 

Kingstown). — The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  shallow 
pans  filled  three-fourths  their  depth  with  loamy 
soil  and  this  just  covered  with  water.  The  pans 
should  be  watertight  and  the  water  maintained 
at  one  level  or  thereabouts — that  is  to  say,  it 
must  not  overflow,  or  the  seeds  may  be  lost. 
The  ordinary  greenhouse  temperature  will  do. 
The  plants  may  take  two,  or  possibly  three, 
years  before  flowering.  You  might  obtain  the 
Vallisneria  from  any  of  the  hardy  plant  dealers 
who  make  a  speciality  of  aquatics— Mr.  Amos 
Perry,  Enfield  ;  Mr.  T.  Smith,  Newry ;  Messrs. 
Barr  and  Sons,  Covent  Garden ;  and  others. 
The  Mandrake  requires  a  warm,  favoured  spot  if 
grown  in  the  open,  and  may  be  raised  from  seeds 
sown  in  sandy  soil  and  given  greenhouse  treat- 
ment for  a  time.  The  plant  is  not  difficult  to 
raise  if  fresh  seeds  are  available. 

Plants  for  small  garden  (Taffylander).—II  you 
desire  a  pretty  and  lasting  effect,  you  cannot  do  better  than 
plant  single  pink-flowered  tuberous  Begonias  freely  and 
furnish  them  with  a  background  of  Centaurea  candidissima. 
The  Begonias  should  be  taken  up  in  the  autumn,  and  if  so 
treated  will  last  for  years.  The  Ranunculus  would  do 
quite  well,  but  its  flowering  season  is  short  compared  with 
the  Begonia,  and,  like  the  latter,  to  do  it  justice  the  tubers 
should  be  lifted  each  year.  If  you  have  room  you  might 
try  all  three,  first  planting  the  Centaureas  thinly  over  the 
surface  and  interspersing  the  others  among  them.  In  this 
way  a  sucoessional  flowering  would  result. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Marechal    Niel    blooms    dis- 

We  think   that  your 


coloured  [Lady  K.y 

surmise  is  correct.  Evidently  the  Tobacco 
fumigation  was  too  strong,  although  nearly 
always  we  find  this  discoloration  occurs  slightly 
whenever  fumigation  is  done.  We  always  try 
to  have  the  plants  clean  of  aphis  before  the 
blooms  unfold,  and  should  there  be  a  few 
expanded  or  showing  colour,  we  screw  a  piece  of 
paper  over  them  during  the  fumigation.  The 
bloom  sent  appeared  rather  a  sickly  one,  doubt- 
less owing  to  the  fact  of  the  plant  being  planted 
so  recently  as  November  last,  and  it  gave  us  the 
impression  of  a  flower  from  a  plant  that  had 
been  over-watered.  Roses  should  certainly  be 
well  syringed  on  all  bright  mornings  up  till  the 
time  the  buds  begin  to  show  colour,  when 
syringing  should  cease.  When  the  blooms  appear 
the  atmosphere  should  not  be  overcharged  with 
moisture,  as  this  is  liable  to  injure  the  delicate 
petals.  It  is  always  rather  difficult  to  grow 
Roses  in  a  house  with  other  subjects,  as  the 
moisture  needful  for  one  may  not  quite  suit  the 
other.  As  soon  as  your  plant  has  finished 
flowering  you  must  encourage  new  growth  by 
applying  atmospheric  moisture  freely,  and  also 
afford  plenty  of  heat.  Of  course,  in  May  and 
onwards  the  solar  heat  will  be  sufficient.  The 
aim  should  be  to  obtain  a  good  new  growth  on 
this  Rose  before  September  ;  then  it  has  several 
weeks  to  ripen,  a  detail  that  materially  assists  a 
good  blooming  the  next  year. 

Dopothy    Perkins    with    unhealthy 
growths  (&.  Henry).— We  do  not  consider  there  is  any 


actual  disease  in  the  growths  of  your  Dorothy  Perkins  ; 
but  we  believe  the  brown  spots  are  due  to  the  very  pithy, 
immatm-e  wood,  brought  about  possibly  by  a  soil  too  rich 
or  abounding  in  some  ingredient  that  is  not  beneficial  to 
the  Roses.  As  you  have  so  many  of  the  plants  affected  in 
the  same  manner,  we  advise  you  to  have  them  transplanted 
at  once  and  replant  in  sweet,  healthy  soil.  This  Rose 
flourishes  best  in  a  soil  not  too  rich,  one  in  which  it  can 
produce  good  solid  wood.  We  do  not  know  the  nature  of 
your  soil,  but  it  would  appear  to  be  wanting  in  solidity. 
Make  up  a  fresh  bed  in  which  good  loam  is  placed  with 
about  one-fourth  its  bulk  of  old  hot-bed  manure.  Avoid 
the  use  of  any  artificial  manures.  If  you  have  doubt  about 
any  of  the  plants  being  sound,  replace  them  with  good 
own-root  plants.  It  is  not  too  late  to  do  this  even  up  till 
the  end  of  April. 


THE    GREENHOU8E. 

Culture  of  Tuberoses  (F.  A.  S.).— 

You  have  certainly  thought  out  a  very  ingenious 
idea  for  giving  your  Tuberoses  an  increased 
amount  of  heat,  but  we  very  much  doubt  whether 
it  will  prove  successful.  As  the  plants  grow  it 
will  be  difficult  to  keep  up  the  heat,  and  that  is 
where  we  think  j'ou  are  likely  to  fail.  Though 
bottom  -  heat  is  generally  recommended  for 
Tuberoses,  it  is  by  no  means  absolutely  necessary 
for  their  successful  culture.  They  may  without 
difficulty  be  grown  in  a  greenhouse  such  as  yours 
with  a  temperature  of  60°  or  thereabouts.  Of 
course,  they  will  be  later  in  flowering  than  if 
they  are  grown  in  more  heat,  but  the  blooms  will 
be  equally  good.  If  they  are  good  bulbs  one  will 
be  sufficient  for  a  pot  o  inches  in  diameter,  or 
three  may  be  put  in  a  6-inch  pot.  The  bulb 
should  be  buried  up  to  the  neck  in  the  soil,  which 
must  be  pressed  down  firmly.  A  sompost  of 
three  parts  loam  to  one  each  of  leaf -mould  and 
dried  cow-manure,  with  a  little  sand,  is  very 
suitable  for  Tuberoses.  Previous  to  potting  the 
bulbs  should  be  examined  and  any  offsets 
removed,  as  they  will  only  push  up  leaves.  If 
the  bulbs  when  potted  are  placed  in  the  green- 
house, they  should  at  first  be  given  only  sufficient 
water  to  keep  the  soil  slightly  moist ;  but  when 
the  roots  get  active  more  water  must  be  given. 
The  leaves  first  make  their  appearance  and  after- 
wards the  flower-spike  is  pushed  up.  When 
growing  a  good  light  position  in  the  greenhouse 
must  be  given  them,  otherwise  the  stems  will 
grow  up  weak  and  flower  badly.  When  the  stem 
makes  its  appearance  an  occasional  dose  of 
liquid  manure  will  be  helpful.  Bulbs  once 
flowered  are  useless  tor  another  year  and  may  be 
thrown  away. 

Chpysanthemum  leaves   fop  inspection 

(Jfm  E.  F.  B.). — Your  Chrysanthemums  are  very  badly 
attacked  by  one  of  the  leaf-burrowing  insects,  such  as  are 
so  troublesome  to  cultivators  of  the  Marguerite.  Its 
ravages  seem  greatly  on  the  increase,  for  we  have  had 
many  e.^amples  from  different  plants  forwarded  to  us  from 
various  parts  of  the  country.  The  little  grubs  are  the 
larvje  of  a  tiny  fly,  which  punctures  the  leaves  and  deposits 
her  eggs  therein.  As  soon  as  they  hatch  the  grubs  com- 
mence their  work  of  destruction.  Badly  infested  leaves 
should  be  picked  off  and  burnt,  and  where  these  pests  are 
not  so  numerous  they  may  be  killed  by  a  pinch  between 
the  finger  and  thumb.  Besides  this  a  sharp  look-out  must 
be  kept  for  the  little  flies,  which  should  be  killed  as  soon 
as  possible.  Spraying  the  plants  with  Quassia  Extract  has 
been  recommended  in  order  to  prevent  the  females  from 
depositing  their  eggs  on  the  leaves.  A  very  good  book  for 
your  purpose  is  "The  Book  of  Garden  Pests,"  byR.  Hooper 
Pearson,  F.R.H.S.  It  can  be  ohtaiued  from  the  Publisher, 
41,  Wellington  Street,  Strand,  W.C. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Pruningr  an  Apple  tree  and  some 
Black  Currant  and  Gooseberry 
bushes  [N.  Faulkner). — You  should  proceed 
with  caution  in  the  pruning  of  your  neglected 
Blenheim  Orange  Apple  tree,  or  you  may  easily 
spoil  the  chance  of  a  good  crop  next  year.  All 
you  should  do  is  to  examine  the  tree  carefully  to 
find  out  the  weakest  and  most  sickly  looking 
branches,  cutting  these  off  no  matter  what  part 
of  the  tree  they  are  in,  and  if  there  are  any  dead 
branches,  these,  of  course,  must  be  cut  away, 
the  object  aimed  at  being  to  so  thin  out  the 
branches  that  more  air,  heat  and  light  may  find 
their  way  among  them,  to  the  improvement 
of  the  health  of  the  tree  and  the  quality  and 
weight  of  the  fruit.     There  should  be  a  distance 


19U 


THE     GARDEN. 


[Apeil  17,  1909. 


of  from  10  inches  to  1  foot  between  each  main 
branch  of  the  tree.  If,  after  cutting  the  weakly 
shoots  as  advised,  you  think  the  tree  is  still  too 
crowded  with  branches,  go  over  it  again  care- 
fully, cutting  a  few  of  the  weakest  out  again, 
and  you  will  have  done  enough  for  this  winter. 
Serve  your  Black  Currant  and  Gooseberry 
bushes  in  the  same  way. 

Apples  to  graft  on  the  stocks  of  Russet 
Apple  tpees  from  tveonty-five  to  thlPty 
yeaps  old  (fl.  W.  /'.).— Sturmer  Pippin  would  be  very 
suitable.  It  is  one  of  our  best  late  dessert  varieties. 
Cox's  rirange  Pippin  is  one  of  the  very  best  dessert  Apples: 
you  cannot  have  too  many  of  it.  If  preserved  under  cool 
conditions  through  the  winter,  in  a  temperature  of  from 
40^  to  45°  Fahr.,  it  may  be  had  in  excellent  condition  for 
dessert  from  early  in  November  to  the  end  of  March. 
Blenheim  Orange  is  another  excellent  sort  which  is  suitable 
for  dessert  or  cooking,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of 
Barnack  Beauty.  Duke  of  Devonshire  is  an  excellent  late 
dessert  variety.  Should  you  wish  for  a  few  late  varieties 
for  cooking,  there  is  nothing  better  than  Lane's  Prince 
Albert,  Newton  Wonder  and  Bramley'a  Seedling.  These 
are  coarser  growing  and  not  so  well  suited  to  the  stock  you 
mention.  

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Names  of  tP\ilt.—A  Header  o/  "  The  Garden."— 

Eadtord  Beauty. L.  L.  Twy/ord.—l,  Mere  du  Manage  ; 

2,  Peasgood's  Nonsuch  ;  3,  Dutch  Mignonne ;  4,  Calville 
Rouge  :  6,  Sturmer  Pippin. 

Names  of  plants.— -M^r.s.  Potton.—'Enca  persoluta 

alba  (not  hardy). The  Rer,   D.  —  Maxillaria  species, 

material  insufficient    to   determine   which. C   A.— I, 

Daphne  Mezereum  ;  2,  Calamintha  Clinopodium.  (?). 


SOCIETIES. 

ROYAL  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIKTY. 
At  the  fortnightly  meetiag  held  on  the  6th  inat.  there 
was  a  remarkably  good  display  of  tlowera,  and  some 
interestiog  coUectiona  of  salads  were  also  staged.  The 
magniflcent  exhibit  of  Orchids  shown  by  Messrs.  Arm- 
strong and  Brown,  and  which  is  described  below,  was  truly 
wonderful  and  attracted  much  well-merited  attention. 

Orohid  Committee. 

Present:  Mr.  J.  Guraey  Fowler  (chairman),  Messrs. 
James  O'Brien,  de  B.  Crawshay,  H.  Little,  W.  Bozall, 
J.  Forster  Acock,  F.  J.  Hanbury,  W.  Waters  Butler,  H. 
J.  Chapman,  W.  P.  Bound,  F.  Menteith  Ogilvie,  R. 
Thwaites,  W.  H.  Hatcher,  J.  Cypher,  J.  Charlesworth, 
H.  G.  Alexander,  W.  H.  White,  H.  A.  Tracey,  H.  Ballan- 
tine,  A.  Dye,  Gurney  Wilson,  J.  Wilson  Potter  and 
Walter  Cobb. 

The  magnificent  group  of  Orchids  staged  by  Messrs. 
Armstrong  and  Brown,  Tunbridge  Wells,  occupied  the 
entire  end  of  the  hall  and  was  about  10  feet  in  width. 
Comprised  chiefly  of  splendidly  grown  specimens  of  Den- 
drobiums  and  Odontoglossums,  this  was,  without  doubt, 
the  finest  group  ever  staged  at  the  hall.  The  arrange- 
ment, too,  was  superb,  a  series  of  semi-circular  mounds 
and  bays  being  the  general  style.  Two  of  the  mounds, 
one  at  each  end,  were  composed  entirely  of  grand  plants 
of  Dendrobium  nobile  virginale,  while  the  centre  mound 
was  made  up  of  Odontoglossum  crispum  varieties, 
Cymbidiums,  a  few  Cypripediimis,  Cattleyas  and  other 
kincls.  Then  in  the  bays  grand  examples  of  various 
coloured  Dendrobiums,  Cypripediums  of  unusual  sorts, 
Masdevallias,  Brasso-Cattteyas,  Lsello-Cattleyas  and  hosts 
of  other  good  subjects  were  staged,  a  very  good  plant  of 
Dendrobium  chessingtonensis  occupying  a  prominent 
position.  Certainly  no  praise  is  too  higti  to  bestow  on 
this  remarkable  group,  which  reflected  the  greatest 
credit  on  those  responsible  for  che  culture  of  the  plants 
and  the  arrangement  of  the  whole.    Gold  medal. 

H.  S.  Goodson,  Esq.,  Fairlawn,  Putney  (gardener,  Mr. 
Da>),  staged  a  nice  little  bank  of  good  plants,  these  being 
edged  with  small  Pteris.  Odontioda  Bradshawise,  various 
forms  of  Odontoglossum  crispum,  0.  lambeaniauum 
Goodson's  variety  and  Cattleya  Schrbderae  were  some  of 
the  best  specimens.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

The  small  group  shown  by  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and 
Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea,  contained  some  well-flowered 
specimens,  among  which  we  noticed  two  fine  tri-generic 
hybrids,  viz.,  Braaso-Cattlselia  Elatior,  a  beautiful  new 
flower  with  pale  mauve  sepals  and  petals  and  a  finely 
crested  lip  marked  with  carmine  and  rich  yellow ;  and 
BrasBo-Cattkelia  Veitchii,  a  very  large  flower  with  long, 
narrow  sepals  and  very  large  petals,  with  a  remarkably 
large  lip  of  deep  carmine  and  yellow  colour.  In  addition 
there  were  good  plants  of  Odontoglossum  crispum  varie- 
ties, Cymbidium  insigne  Sanderi  and  Cattleya  Schrbderae, 
the  whole  making  a  very  fine  and  interesting  group. 
.Silver  Flora  medal. 

From  Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co.,  Hayward's  Heath, 
came  a  choice  little  group  that  was  full  of  interest. 
Among  other  excellent  plants  were  a  very  large-flowered 
Coelogyne  pandurata,  Lselio- Cattleya  Elinor,  a  flne  form  of 
Odontoglossum  lambeaniauum,  Angnccum  sesquipedale, 
Phaius  Norman,  Brasso- Cattleya  Marathon,  a  remarkably 
tine  dark  variety  of  Laelio-Cattleya  dominiana,  a  good 
specimen  of  Dendrobium  densiflorum  and  Odontoglossum 
Oasulstonii.  Silver  Flora  medal. 
Messrs.   Hugh  Low  and  Co.,  Bush  Hill  Park,  Enfield, 

staged  a  small  group  of  well-grown  plants,  which  included 


good  examples  of  Dendrobium  nobile  nobilius,  D.  n. 
ballianum,  D.  n.  virginale,  Cattleya  luddemaniana 
Stanleyii,  Cypripedium  Wm.  Lloyd,  C.  Rossettii,  Crelogyne 
pandurata  and  Lie lio- Cattleya  Myra.  Silver  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  Cypher  and  Son,  Cheltenham,  staged  a  small 
group  of  well-grown  Dendrobiums,  this  comprising  many 
good  and  interesting  species  and  varieties. 

From  Messrs.  J.  and  A.  A.  McBean  came  a  pretty  group 
of  very  floriferous  plants,  among  which  we  noticed  some 
remarkably  good  Odontoglossums,  these  showing  a  wide 
range  of  form  and  marking.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans,  had  a  very  tine 
collection  of  first-class  plants,  these  being  shown  in  the 
firm's  usual  style.  Odontoglossum  Dreadnought,  LbbHo- 
Cattleya  bletchleyensis,  Coelogyne  ocellata  maxima, 
Epidendrum  nocturum,  Cattleya  Schrbderae  Niobe  and 
many  others  were  specially  noticed. 

Mr.  M.  Mertens,  Ghent,  was  showing  some  of  his  fine 
Odontoglossum  hybrids,  these  being  of  remarkably  attrac- 
tive colouring  and  very  free-flowering.  Silver  Banksian 
medal. 

From  Mr.  A.  W.  Jensen,  Lindfleld,  Hayward's  Heath, 
came  a  small  group  of  Cattleyas  and  two  or  three  Odonto- 
glossum hybrids,  the  former  being  particularly  good,  a 
flne  flower  of  C.  Schrbderse  Irene  being  of  more  than  usual 
interest.     Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Floral  Commtttke. 

Present:  Mr.  W.  Marshall  (chairman),  Messrs.  C.  T. 
Druery,  J.  W.  Barr,  R.  C.  Notcutt,  J.  Green,  G.  Gordon, 
J.  Douglas,  William  Howe,  C.  R.  Fielder,  J.  Jennings, 
J.  F.  McLeod,  H.  J.  Cutbush,  Charles  Dixon,  W.  J.  Bean, 
A.  Turner,  Charles  E.  Pearson,  W.  P.  Thomson,  B.  H. 
Jenkins,  W.  J.  James,  J.  Hudson  and  George  Paul. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  brought  a  very  fine 
display  of  their  pink-flowered  Cinerarias  in  many  delight- 
ful shades  of  colour.  The  range  of  colour  embraced  blush, 
crushed  strawberry,  rose,  salmon  and  other  intermediate 
shades  of  a  very  delightful  character,  the  whole  forming  a 
colour  scheme  of  rare  beauty.  Some  hybrid  Freesias  in 
rose,  orange  and  other  shades  were  also  noted  in  the 
group.    Silver  Bankaian  medal. 

Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Sons,  Waltham  Cross,  dis- 
played Pyrus  Scheideckeri  with  rosy  pink  plumes,  P. 
anguatifolius  flore-pleno,  P.  Malus  floribunda  with  Camel- 
lias and  a  delightful  lot  of  Ceanothus  veitchianus.  the 
whole  making  a  very  charming  group.   Silver  Flora  medaL 

Messrs.  J.  Peed  and  Sons,  West  Norwood,  showed  a 
pretty  lot  of  alpines,  succulents.  Primulas  and  a  pleasing 
bank  of  Caladiums  and  other  plants.  Silver  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  Wallace  and  Co.,  Colchester,  had  a  pleasing 
alpine  and  rock  garden  exhibit,  in  which  Tulip  species, 
Viola  gracilis,  Fritillarias,  Primula  viscosa  alba,  P.  v.  Mrs. 
J.  H.  Wilson  (a  delightful  hybrid  alpine  singularly  free 
and  profuse  in  flowering),  Shortias,  Iris  reticulata. 
Anemone  Pulsatilla,  Daphne  Cneorum  and  many  other 
delightful  plants  were  to  be  seen.     Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea, 
grouped  a  very  delightful  lot  of  Lachenalias,  Rhododen- 
drons, Laburnums,  Pyruses,  Wistarias,  Jaaminum  primu- 
linum,  Philadelphus  and  other  plants,  the  whole  forming 
a  group  of  rare  beauty  and  utility  for  the  season  of  tbe 
year.  Messrs.  Veitch  also  had  an  interesting  exhibit  of 
plants,  in  which  were  blue  Hydrangeas,  Hippeastrums  in 
variety,  Clivias,  Gerberas  in  many  charming  shades, 
Clianthus  puniceus  and  C.  p.  albus,  a  delightful  lot  of 
Anthuriums,  some  charming  examples  of  Boronia  mega- 
stigma  and  a  lovely  lot  of  Azalea  indica  in  many  shades  of 
white,  rose,  salmon  and  similar  plants.  Silver-gilt  Flora 
medal. 

Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons,  Edmonton,  showed  groups 
of  the  Polyantha  Roses,  Pelargonium  Clorinda,  Clematis 
in  variety  and  a  large  example  of  Cerope^ia  Woodii  with 
endless  tubers  attached  thereto.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

A  pretty  exhibit  oS  Hepaticas,  Drabas,  Primula  denti- 
culata,  P.  d.  alba  and  blue  Primroses  came  from  Messrs. 
George  Jackman  and  Sons,  Woking,  the  whole  presenting 
an  interesting  feature.    Silver  BanHsian  medal. 

Mr.  Charles  Dawson,  Gulval,  Penzance,  staged  a 
delightful  lot  of  new  Narcissi,  among  which  Vivandiere, 
Armorel,  Tita  (a  fine  incomparabilis  with  rich  cup), 
Homespun,  Diogenes  and  many  seedlings  were  noted. 
Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  R.  Gill  and  Sons,  Falmouth,  had  a  very  fine 
assortment  of  Rhododendrons,  such  as  R.  barbatum,  R.  b. 
carneum,  R.  Harrisoni:  and  many  others,  the  flowers  being 
of  exceptional  brilliancy. 

Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  Old  Nurseries,  Cheshunt,  had  a 
few  interesting  plants,  such  as  Deutzia  discolor  major, 
D.  d.  camea,  D.  d.  acuta,  Mezereons  in  variety  and  the 
new  Rambler  Rose  Lady  Oodiva,  which  is  of  a  rosy  pink 
hue  and  very  charming 

Sir  Everard  Hambro,  K.C.V.O.,  Hayes  Place,  Kent 
(gardener,  Mr.  Grandfield),  showed  a  very  fine  group  of 
Primula  verticillata,  the  plants  being  well  grown  and 
abundantly  flowered. 

Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  Keston,  Kent,  brought  a  delightful  lot  of 
alpines  in  pots,  and  particularly  Saxifrages  in  great  variety, 
Shortias,  Daphne  blagayana,  Rhododendrons,  HepaticaS; 
Dog's-tooth  Violets,  Primula  viscosa  alba.  Anemone 
vernalis  and  many  other  plants  of  interest  and  beauty. 
Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  William  Cutbush  and  Sons,  Highgate,  had  a 
delightful  display  of  alpine  Primulas,  Hepaticas,  Primroses, 
Anemone  Pulsatilla,  Omphalodes  verna,  Sanguinaria 
canadensis  and  the  like,  together  with  forced  shrubs. 
Lilacs,  Azaleas,  Magnolias  and  other  plants.  Boronia 
megaatigma  was  also  charming,  and  not  leas  so  Wistaria 
sinensis  and  the  pretty  coloured  Pyrus  Malus  in  variety. 
Messrs.  Cutbush  also  displayed  a  very  fine  assortment  of 


the  Perpetual-flowering  Carnations,  many  of  the  leading; 
varieties  being  staged  in  excellent  condition.  Silver-gilt 
Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  George  Prince,  Oxford,  had  an  exquisite  lot  of 
Roses  delightful  in  form  and  colour,  among  which  we 
noted  Lady  Roberts,  Souv.  de  Pierre  Notting  (a  flne 
yellow),  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  (creamy  white),  Wm. 
Shean  (pink),  Mar^chal  Niel  (very  flne),  Richmond,  Clara 
Watson  and  others.  The  new  Tea  Rose  Mrs.  Sophia 
Neate  (a  rosy  salmon  shade)  was  also  shown.  Silver 
Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Lilly,  Guernsey,  displayed  a  fine  lot  of  Narcissi 
in  variety,  also  Anemones  and  other  spring  flowers. 

The  Guildford  Hardy  Plant  Nursery  had  many  choice 
plants,  which  included  hardy  Heaths,  Lenten  Roses,  many 
choice  Saxifrages,  Primulas  and  other  plants. 

Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover,  had  a  small 
rockery  arrangement  with  grassed  mounds  arranged  with 
hardy  plants. 

Miss  F.  W.  Currey,  Lismore,  Ireland,  had  a  choice  lot  of 
Narcissi  from  the  open,  M.  J.  Berkeley  being  particularly 
flne. 

Major  Lister,  Waringlid  Grange,  Sussex  (gardener,  Mr. 
Baker),  brought  a  tine  display  of  Hippeastrums  in  white 
and  red  flowered  varieties,  many  of  these  being  of  very 
large  size.     Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  Covent  Garden,  showed  a 
charming  lot  of  Daffodils,  among  which  King  Alfred, 
Henry  Irving,  Mme.  de  Graaff,  Albicans,  Apricot,  Lucifer, 
Eldorado  (a  rich  yellow  Ajax),  Mrs.  G.  H.  Barr  (white 
Ajax),  Sunrise,  Admiral  Makaroff^  (fine  yellow)  and  others 
were  noted.  Choice  alpines  and  early  bulbous  plants, 
Lenten  Roses  and  the  like  were  included  in  this  excellent 
exhibit.     Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Lilies,  Carnations  and  Roses  were  finely  displayed  by 
Mr.  W.  H.  Page,  Hampton,  and  all  were  in  excellent 
condition.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

The  Misses  Hopkins,  Shepperton,  had  a  capital  group  ol 
alpines  on  rockwork,  such  plants  as  Saxifraga  sancta,  S. 
apiculata,  the  alpine  Primroses  and  Hepaticas,  with  many 
others,  being  finely  displayed. 

Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons,  Edmonton,  bad  a  capital 
group  of  Ferns,  chiefly  Polypodiums.  Silver  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  Robert  Ker  and  Sons,  Liverpool,  showed  a  few 
excellent  varieties  of  Hippeastrum. 

Messrs.  Cartwright  and  Goodwin,  Kidderminster,  dis- 
played a  fine  lot  of  Daffodils,  such  as  King  Alfred, 
Brigadier,  Orangeman,  Weardale  Perfection,  Pilgrim, 
Duke  of  Bedford,  Evangeline,  Fusilier,  White  Lady, 
Cosset  and  many  more.  A  very  charming  exhibit  of 
sterling  varieties.     Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield,  had  a  capital  lot  of 
Carnations  in  tbe  best  commercial  sorts,  also  a  fine  lot  of 
Acacias  and  other  greenhouse  plants.  Silver  Flora  medal. 
Messrs.  Carter  Page  and  Co.,  London  Wall,  brought 
Violas  and  Tufted  Panaies ;  and  Mr.  Robert  Sydenham  had 
a  display  of  Freesias,  Lily  of  the  Valley  and  Daffodils  in 
moss  flbre. 

Messrs.  Cannell  and  Sons,  Swanley,  brought  a  very 
interesting  lot  of  Begonias,  chiefly  winter  and  spring 
flowering  species,  in  variety,  the  forms  of  B.  manicata 
being  very  effective.  Some  good  Cinerarias  were  also 
shown  by  this  firm.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath,  Limited,  Wisbech,  brought  Tulips, 
Daffodils  and  Chionodoxas  in  moss  fibre. 

Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware,  Limited,  Feltham,  arranged  a 
superb  bank  of  alpine  plants  in  variety.  Silver  Bankaian 
medal. 

Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Colchester,  brought  some 
excellent  Roses,  of  which  Queen  of  Spain,  J.  B.  Clark  and 
Lady  Roberts  were  notable  examples.  Silver  Banksian 
medal. 

Mr.  Burnett  brought  a  flue  lot  of  Carnations  from 
Guernsey,  these  being  of  very  excellent  culture.  Silver 
Flora  medal. 

Bakers,  Limited,  Wolverhampton,  had  a  pretty  rockery 
exhibit,  in  which  Primulas  and  Saxifrages  were  charming 
features.     Bronze  Flora  medal. 

The  display  of  Lilacs  from  Mr.  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond, 
was  very  fine,  white  and  coloured  varieties  being  shown  in 
superb  condition.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  R.  and  G.  Cuthbert,  Southgate,  had  a  magniflcent 
display  of  forced  shrubs,  Magnolias,  Azaleas,  Lilacs, 
Wistarias,  Pyrus  and  the  like  forming  a  feast  of  colour. 
Silver-gilt  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Carter  and  Co.,  High  Holborn,  had  a  lovely  lot 
of  the  King  Alfred  Daffodil  arranged  as  a  centre  with 
Tulips  around,  the  whole  forming  a  really  magnificent 
display. 

Messrs.  Whitelegg  and  Page,  Chislehurst,'^  showed 
Cyclamens  in  variety,  the  well-flowered  plants  being  taller 
than  is  usually  seen. 

Mr.  C.  J.  Wakefield,  57,  Wilton  Road,  London,  S.W.» 
was  exhibiting  various  examples  of  his  excellent  Floral 
Aids,  these  being  strongly  made  with  the  best  copper  and 
coloured  green,  so  that  there  is  no  fear  of  rusting.  In 
addition  to  the  well-known  weighted  forms  for  broad, 
open  bowls,  he  was  showing  Floral  Aid  No.  2,  which  la 
excellent  for  tall  vases  of  all  sizes,  the  bottom  being  so 
constructed  that  it  can  easily  be  made  to  fit  any  shaped 
vase.  The  wires,  too,  are  pliable,  so  that  they  can  be 
bent  at  any  angle,  and  these  aids  certainly  ought  to  be 
largely  employed  where  floral  decoration  has  to  be  done 
to  any  extent,  ^^^len  once  arranged  the  water  can  be 
changed  without  disturbing  the  flowers. 

Mr.  H.  C.  Pulham,  Elsenham,  Essex,  had  a  very  pretty 
little  rockery  in  the  annexe,  which  was  freely  planted  with 
such  spring-flowering  subjects  as  Muscari,  Hepaticas, 
Ranunculus  amplexicaulis,  Saxifrages,  Primulas,  Heaths, 
Aubrietias,  &c.,  the  background  being  formed  with 
miniature  conifers. 


r^®- 


GARDEN. 


^fo^-^^ 


-^»= 


-^^^^^ 


No.  1953.- Vol.  LXXIII. 


Apkil   24,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


A       GOOSEBEKBY 

Rose  Garden 

Disease     and     Its 

Rose  William  Allen 

Treatment      . .    . . 

197 

Richardson    . .     . . 

2ns 

Notes  or  the  Week 

1<IS 

Rose   Climbing  Mrs. 

CORBESPONSEnOE 

19S 

W.  J.  Grant  . .     . . 

203 

Hippeastrums     at 

GARDENING  FOR  BEGINNERS 

Messrs.  James  Veitch 

Garden  work  week  by 

and  Sods'  nurseries. . 

19ii 

week 

204 

Flowek  Garden 

Raising  and  increas- 

Daffodil  notes  . .     . . 

20(1 

las     

Roses  in  greenhouses 

and  pots 

The  proper  distance 

apart  to  plant  bed- 

204 
205 

Seed-sowing    in    the 

flower  garden 
Sweet  Pea  chat 
Saxifraga     apiculata 

200 
200 

'^01 

Crocus  Sieberi  versi- 

201 

ding  plants    ..     .. 
A  little-known  green- 

2U5 

house  plant    . .     . . 

'Mi, 

Carnation      Lady 

The  Town  Garden  . . 

206 

Dainty     

201 

Gardening  or  the  Weee 

6iREENH0TJSE 

For  the   South    and 

How  to  use  the  cold 

South  Midlands    . . 

206 

202 

For  the  Korth    and 

Fruit  Garden 

North  MldlandB  .. 

206 

How   to   grow  fruit 

Editor's  Table      . .     . . 

206 

trees  in  pots  . .     . . 

ii02 

Answers     to     Corre- 

Trees and  Shrubs 

spondents 

Early  -  flowering 

Flower  garden  . .     . . 

•M 

Rhododendrons    . . 

■inx 

Rose  garden      . .     . . 

20V 

Rose  Garden 

Kitchen  garden 

20S 

A  beautiful  Eambler 

Miscellaneous  . .     . . 

2US 

Rose  for  pot  culture 

203 

Societies      

208 

ILLUSTR 

ATIONS. 

A  well-flowered  Dendrobium 

tvardiannm      

199 

aiha 

Wl 

Carnation  Lady  Dainty . 

Coloured  plate 

New  Crocus  Sieberi  vers 

color 
zalea 

201 
202 

A  fine  Rhododendron  (A 

indicum 

Rose  William  Allen  Richards 

on       

203 

Raising  and  increasing  a 

Ipine 

Auriculas       . .     . .    204 

205 

BDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
GAitDEN,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "ATiswers  to  Correspondents"  columns  a  conspicnwus 
feature^  and,  when  queries  are  printed^  he  hopes  readers 
vriU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  commiMnications  mxist  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Oakden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  Twtes, 
Imt  he  wiU  twC  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  vnll  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  vnll  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  


As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  mvM  be  distinctly  understood  that  (mly 
the  actttal  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treaMd  with.  

The  Editor  vnll  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  itse, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  rwt  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
vrUl  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  SOt  Tavistock  Street,  CffoeTtt  Gortien,  W.C, 


A      GOOSEBERRY      DISEASE 
AND    ITS    TREATMENT. 

THERE  is  a  disease  which  is  causing 
considerable  destruction  in  many  gar- 
dens and  plantations,  almost  as  much, 
in  some  cases,  as  the  celebrated 
American  mildew  (Sphserotheca  mors- 
uvae),  but  which  is  not  nearly  so  well  known  as 
the  latter.  This  is,  doubtless,  partly  owing  to 
the  fact  that  there  is  not  nearly  so  much  apparent 
injury  done  to  the  Gooseberry  bush  by  this 
disease,  though  the  ultimate  effect  may  be  very 
little  less  deadly.  During  the  summer  a  casual 
inspection  does  not  reveal  anything  much  wrong, 
except  that  the  edges  of  the  leaves  seem  a  trifle 
browned  as  if  scorched  by  a  fire  or  burnt  by  too 
strong  a  dose  of  an  insecticide.  In  the  winter, 
however,  a  much  more  serious  state  of  affairs  will 
be  found.  On  those  trees  which  exhibited  the 
scorched  foliage  just  described,  the  young  wood 
will  appear  as  if  withered  up  completely,  buds 
and  all,  and  when  cut  will  be  found  to  be  dead 
almost,  and  in  some  cases  quite,  down  to  the 
older  wood.  So  serious  does  this  become  on 
trees  which  are  badly  infected  that  they  prac- 
tically make  no  headway  at  all,  if,  indeed,  they 
do  not  decrease  in  size,  because  of  the  pruning 
back  of  all  the  diseased  shoots,  frequently  even 
into  the  previous  season's  wood. 

This  disease  is  the  result  of  the  attacks  of  the 
fungus  Botrytis  oineria,  the  summer  stage  of 
one  of  the  Sclerotinia,  a  most  widely  spread 
disease,  attacking  very  many  kinds  of  plants, 
including  most  garden  crops  and  many  kinds  of 
weeds.  It  attacks  first  the  sappy  tip  of  the 
young  growth  of  the  shoot,  the  mycelium  then 
passing  down,  the  shoot  is  killed  and  the  fungus 
passes  on  by  means  of  its  summer  spores,  millions 
of  which  are  to  be  found  even  on  one  shoot.  In 
very  bad  infections  this  killing  of  the  young 
growth  can  be  easily  seen,  as  the  tip  of  the  shoot 
wilts  and  dies,  but  more  often  the  effect  is  such 
as  before  described.  If  these  dead  tips  are 
seen,  they  should  be  at  once  cut  ofiF  and  put  into 
a  galvanised  pail  and  burnt. 

As  soon  as  the  fruit  has  been  picked,  the 
bushes  should  be  sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
at  about  normal  strength,  that  is,  ■21b.  of  Straw- 
sonite  or  Vermorite  to  10  gallons  of  water.  If  it 
is  desired  to  have  freshly  made  Bordeaux 
mixture,  l'61b.  of  copper  sulphate  must  be 
dissolved  in  10  gallons  of  water  and  sufficient 
lime  water  added  till  the  solution  does  not  show 
the  red  coloration  of  blue  litmus  paper  due  to 
free  acid.  By  the  use  of  lime  water,  made  by 
putting  a  greater  quantity  of  lime  in  water  than 
is  dissolved  and  so  obtaining  a  saturated  solution, 
the  difficulty  of    the    small    particles    of    lime 


clogging  the  nozzles  of  the  sprayer,  as  in  the  old 
method,  is  overcome. 

In  the  winter  the  diseased  wood  must  be 
pruned  back  so  far  that  the  out  portion  reveals 
clean,  healthy  tissue,  and  all  the  prunings  must 
be  carefully  raked  up  and  burnt.  Afterwards 
the  bushes  must  be  sprayed  heavily  with  a  simple 
solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  at  the  rate  of  41b. 
to  KXt  gallons  of  water.  Even  these  severe 
measures  of  pruning  and  spraying  will  possibly 
not  entirely  eradicate  the  fungus,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  the  mycelium  is  in  the  tissues  of  the 
shoots  and  branches  and  so  cannot  be  touched  by 
the  spray.  It  will  be  a  good  plan,  therefore,  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  are  open  in  the  spring,  to 
spray  with  a  solution  of  liver  of  sulphur  (sulphide 
of  potassium)  loz.  to  loz.  per  gallon  of  water, 
using  the  smaller  strength  first  and  increasing 
if  it  is  seen  that  the  tender  foliage  will  stand  it. 
This  wash  should  destroy  any  spores  which 
may  have  been  produced  by  the  hibernating 
mycelium. 

If  active  measures  such  as  these  are  taken 
when  the  attack  is  first  noticed,  the  disease 
should  at  least  be  kept  well  in  check,  if  not 
stamped  out  entirely',  whereas  a  few  years  ago 
all  the  bushes  would  have  had  to  be  grubbed  up 
and  the  plantation  done  away  with.  One  word 
of  caution  must  be  given  ;  great  care  must  be 
taken  that  no  other  crop  grown  among  Goose- 
berries is  afi^ected  with  Botrytis,  or  the  latter 
may  be  infected.  It  is  a  common  practice  to 
grow  many  crops  between  young  Gooseberry 
trees,  and  most,  if  not  all,  such  crops  are  liable 
to  attacks  of  this  disease.  Potatoes,  Tomatoes, 
Beans,  Peas,  Strawberries,  as  well  as  many  of 
the  common  weeds,  may  thus  prove  a  serious 
source  of  danger  to  the  Gooseberry  bushes,  and 
vigilant  watch  must  be  kept  lest  they  become 
infected  and  communicate  the  disease  to  the 
trees. 

AH  gardeners  and  those  who  have  charge  of 
Gooseberry  plantations,  whether  small  or  large, 
should  keep  a  strict  watch  for  this  insidious 
disease,  whose  presence  is  seldom  suspected  till 
it  has  gained  a  firm  hold  on  the  bushes. 
Wherever  this  dying  back,  such  as  I  have 
described,  is  found  and  the  trees  appear  to  be 
doing  badly,  cuttings  should  be  forwarded 
either  to  the  office  of  The  Gabden  or  to  the 
Board  of  Agriculture,  so  that  some  mycologist 
may  examine  them,  for  it  is  only  under  the 
microscope  ofttimes  that  the  presence  or  absence 
of  the  Botrytis  can  be  assured.  Prompt  atten- 
tion to  the  details  described  above  will  be  well 
repaid,  as  if  the  disease  is  allowed  to  go  unchecked 
serious  damage  will  quickly  result. 

F.  W.  Hammond. 

Pilgrims  Hatch,  Brentwood, 


198 


THE     GARDEN. 


[April  24,  1909. 


NOTES   OF    THE   WEEK. 

FOETHCOMINQ    EVENTS. 

*,*  Tht  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  the 

respective  Secretaries. 

May  4. — Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers,  Fruit,  Ac,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m. 
Lecture  at  .")  p.m.  by  Mr.  C.  C.  Hurst  on 
"Mendel's  Law  and  its  Application  to  Horti- 
culture." Royal  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster. 

May  5  and  6. — National  Auricula  and  Primula 
Society's  (Midland  Section)  Show,  Botanical 
Gardens,  Edgbaston,  Birmingham. 


Refreshments  at  the  Temple 

Show. — In  the  notices  to  Fellows  published  in 
the  current  issue  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
.Society's  Journal,  visitors  are  warned  that 
refreshments  of  any  sort  will  not  be  obtainable 
at  any  time  except  afternoon  tea  from  2  p.m.  to 
6  p.m.,  which  will  be  served  out  of  doors. 

Date  of  National  Auricula  and 
Primula  Society's  (Midland  Sec- 
tion) Show.— This  exhibition,  which  was 
originally  fixed  for  April  28  and  2!l,  has  been 
postponed  until  May  5  and  6,  owing  to  the  late- 
ness of  the  season.  It  is  to  be  held  in  the 
Botanical  Gardens,  Edgbaston,  Birmingham, 
and  any  communications  respecting  the  show 
should  be  sent  to  the  hon.  show  secretary,  Mr. 
T.  J.  Stevens,  74,  Harbury  Road,  Cannon  Hill, 
Birmingham. 

United  HoPtlcultural  Benefit 
and  Provident  Society.— The  monthly 
committee  meeting  of  this  society  was  held  at 
the  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  S.  W. , 
on  Monday,  April  ."ith,  Mr.  Thomas  Winter  in 
the  chair.  Nine  new  members  were  elected. 
The  usual  quarterly  payments  were  granted,  and 
several  members  over  sixty  years  of  age  availed 
themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  withdraw  their 
interest,  as  per  Rule  IS.  The  annual  report  and 
balance  sheet  has  been  posted  to  members.  Will 
any  member  not  having  received  one  please 
write  to  the  secretary  ? 

The  Journal  of  the  Kew  Guild.— 

The  IHflS  number  of  this  popular  publication  has 
just  made  a  belated  appearance,  and  by  the  time 
it  reaches  some  of  its  members  abroad  mid 
summer  will  probably  be  well  within  sight.  As 
usual,  its  contents  are  of  a  varied  and  interesting 
character,  especially  to  those  who  have  at  any 
time  been  connected  with  the  famous  gardens. 
The  place  of  honour  is  devoted  to  a  brief  account 
of  the  life  and  work  of  Mr.  G.  Massee,  F.L.S.,  of 
whom  an  excellent  frontispiece  portrait  is  given. 
Letters  from  Old  Kewites  abroad  are,  as  usual, 
full  of  interest,  giving  one  at  least  a  slight  insight 
to  the  work  being  done  by  these  men.  Death, 
as  usual,  has  been  busy  among  those  who  have 
passed  through  Kew,  particularly  sad  being  that 
of  Mrs.  R.  Ward,  which  occurred  in  British 
Guiana,  and  to  whose  husband  the  hearts  of  all 
Old  Kewites  will  go  out  in  sympathy.  A  full- 
page  illustration  of  the  Kew  staflF  in  19Uo  is  even 
more  belated  than  the  number  of  the  Journal 
itself,  and  though  quite  worthy  of  finding  a  place 
in  the  Journal,  should  have  been  included  in  the 
number  for  19U(i. 

Scottish  Horticultural  Associa- 
tion.— The  ordinary  monthly  meeting  of  the 
Scottish  Horticultural  Association  was  held  in  the 
Hall,  St.  Andrew  Square.  Edinburgh,  on  the 
evening  of  Tuesday,  April  6th.  There  was  a 
large  attendance  of  members.  The  subject 
of  the  lecture  was  "Insectivorous  Plants,"  the 
lecturer  being  Mr.  Laurence  B.  Stewart  of  the 
Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Edinburgh,  whose  prac- 
tical acquaintance  with  these  plants  is  extensive, 
and  who  is  well  qualified  to  speak  about  them  and 
their  ways.  The  lecture  was  a  deeply  interesting 
one,  the  illustrations  showing  many  features 
of  importance  in  the  structure  of  the  various 
insectivorous  plants  dealt  with,  while  the 
habitats  of  the  subjects,  their  general  distribution 


and  their  discoverers  were  all  treated  with 
considerable  detail.  Among  the  plants  dealt  with 
were  the  Sarracenias,  Nepenthes,  Dionteas,  Pin- 
guieulas,  Droseras  and  others.  Mr.  Stewart's 
lecture  was  listened  to  with  much  attention,  and 
he  was  accorded  a  hearty  vote  of  thanks. 

M.  Correvon's  oook  on  alplnes. 

We  understand  that  arrangements  are  being 
made  for  the  publication  of  an  English  edition  of 
M.  Correvon's  splendid  book,  "  Flore  Alpine." 

Royal  Horticultural  Society  and 
forced  Hyacinths.— The  council  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  has  accepted  the 
offer  of  cash  prizes  to  be  competed  for  in 
March,  litlO,  from  the  Royal  General  Dutch 
Bulb  Growers'  Society  at  Haarlem  Division  I. 
For  amateurs  and  gentlemen's  gardeners.  Class  3, 
eighteen  Hyaoiaths,  distinct.  Class  4,  twelve 
Hyacinths,  distinct.  Class  5,  six  Hyacinths, 
distinct.  Class  6,  four  pans  containing  Hya- 
cinths, ten  roots  of  one  variety  in  each  pan,  the 
blooms  of  each  pan  to  be  of  distinctly  different 
colour  to  those  of  the  other  three  pans. 
Division  II.  For  trade  growers.  Class  7,  col- 
lection of  200  Hyacinths  in  at  least  thirty-six 
varieties,  grown  in  pots  or  vases.  Class  S. 
collection  of  200  Hyacinths  in  twenty  varieties 
in  pans,  ten  roots  of  one  variety  in  each  pan. 
For  Classes  3,  4  and  5  each  bulb  must  be  in  a 
separate  pot,  size  optional.  Classes  3,  4,  5  and  6 
must  all  be  single  spikes  ;  no  spikes  may  be  tied 
together.  Exhibitors  may  only  compete  in  one 
of  the  classes  numbered  3,  4  and  5.  All  bulbs 
must  have  been  forced  entirely  in  Great  Britain 
or  Ireland.  The  bulbs  used  in  Classes  6  and  8 
should  be  of  varieties  most  suitable  for  outdoor 
l>edding  purposes. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

^T'Ae  Editor  is  not  responsible  Jor   the   opinion* 
expressed  by  correspondeiits.  J 

Staking  newly  planted  trees.— I 

have  been  tree  planting  for  the  last  nine  or  ten 
years  and  have  tried  every  method  of  staking 
I  have  heard  of  ;  but  I  did  not  meet  with  success 
until  I  struck  out  a  line  of  my  own,  which  has 
proved  so  very  successful  that  I  think  I  ought  to 
describe  it  for  the  benefit  of  other  readers  of 
The  Garden.  Before  the  tree  is  taken  up  for 
transplanting  we  dig  a  hole  in  the  usual  way,  and 
then  choose  a  stake  which  is  at  least  as  sub- 
stantial as  the  tree  to  be  planted,  and  in  the  case 
of  small  trees,  such  as  those  which  are  only 
1  inch  in  diameter,  we  use  a  stake  considerably 
larger,  say,  li  inches  in  diameter.  This  stake 
is  driven  into  the  ground  in  the  centre  of  the 
hole,  and  when  the  tree  arrives  it  is  carefully 
planted  against  the  stake  and  the  soil  filled  in. 
Then  we  put  straw  round  the  tree,  just  level 
with  the  top  of  the  post,  which  should  be  kept 
well  below  the  branches.  Old  wine-bottle  straw 
eases  are  the  most  satisfactory  for  this  purpose. 
The  straw  is  bound  round  the  tree  with  a  strip 
of  old  sacking.  One  man  then,  with  a  pair  of 
pincers,  holds  the  end  of  a  piece  of  ordinary 
galvanised  wire,  not  less  than  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  tight  against  tlie  post  at  the 
level  of  the  lower  part  of  the  straw,  and  the 
other  man  slowly  walks  round  the  tree,  pulling 
the  other  end  of  the  wire  all  the  time  until  it 
has  been  passed  round  three  or  four  times.  The 
man  with  the  pincers  then  grips  both  wires 
and  twists  them  together,  and  the  long  end  is 
cut  off.  A  small  staple  is  then  driven  into 
the  post  over  one  of  the  coils  of  wire  to  prevent 
the  binding  wire  from  working  down,  and  all  is 
complete.  By  the  time  the  post  rots  off  at  the 
bottom  the  tree  is  strong  enough  to  do  without 
support,  and  as  the  straw  is  from  1  .\  inches  to 
3  inches  thick  all  round  the  tree,  the  swelling  of 
the  stem  by  growth  is  accommodated  by  the 
compression  ot  the  straw.  It  is  an  immense 
advantage  to  do  a  job  once  and  for  all,  and  when 
trees  are  staked  in  this  manner  the  only  opera- 
tion necessary  after  the  first  is  the  cutting  of 


the    wire    and    the    removal     of     the    posts. — 
Thackeray  Turner. 
A  National  Vegetable  Society.— 

The  proposal  to  promote  a  National  Vegetable 
Society,  which  appeared  on  page  189,  is  not  new, 
as  I  and  others  have  advocated  both  that 
and  the  holding  of  national  exhibitions  of  vege- 
tables in  the  past  ;  but  no  response  has  been 
made  of  a  nature  to  justify  further  action.  Il 
is,  indeed,  strange  that,  while  special  and  strong 
societies  can  be  promoted  to  encourage  Auriculas, 
Carnations,  Dahlias,  Roses,  Sweet  Peas, 
Daffodils,  Chrysanthemums  and  other  flowers, 
no  special  body  thinks  it  to  be  its  duty  to  take 
either  fruit  or  vegetables  under  its  particular 
protection.  Things  giving  colour-beauty  and 
some  perfume  arouse  great  enthusiasm  ;  things 
which,  as  fruit  or  vegetables,  give  us  the 
most  delicious  and  wholesome  food  and  have  the 
highest  value  to  the  nation  in  an  economic  as 
well  as  mercantile  sense  create  no  such  interest. 
Such  a  result  is,  to  say  the  least,  astounding 
and  not  at  all  in  accordance  with  that  practical 
good  sense  and  judgment  which  is  so  commonly 
ascribed  to  the  British  people.  We  have  seen 
the  usual  exhibition  of  hardy  British-grown 
fruit  expunged  from  the  programme  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  this  year,  and  the 
greatest  vegetable  exhibition  in  the  kingdom — 
that  of  Shrewsbury — whittled  down  so  severely 
that  it  threatens  this  year  to  be  but  a  shadow 
of  its  former  self.  How  much  must  all  those 
who  have  that  form  of  patriotism  which  means 
the  nation's  and  the  people's  welfare  deplore 
these  snubs  to  one  of  our  greatest  and  most 
valued  industries.  So  far  as  vegetables  are  con- 
cerned, it  has  been  too  largely  their  misfortune 
at  exhibitions  that  societies  have  left  them  to 
the  mercy  of  the  seed  trade.  But  for  that  trade 
competitions  would  have  been  few  indeed.  That 
otters  of  prizes,  sometimes  very  liberal  ones,  by 
the  trade  were  good  advertisements  there  can 
be  no  doubt ;  but  it  is  too  much  to  expect  that 
such  prizescouldbe  offeredandso  largely  from  year 
to  year  without  some  quid  pro  quo  being  looked 
for.  It  is  only  fair  to  these  prizes  that  it  should 
be  said  of  them  they  have  not  infrequently 
produced  some  of  the  finest  vegetable  competi- 
tions ever  seen.  Were  any  really  tangible 
effort  made  to  promote  the  formation  of  a 
National  Vegetable  Society,  most  certainly  a 
liberal  backing  by  the  seed  trade  would  be 
necessary.  It  is  not  essential  to  such  a  society 
that  the  seed  trade  be  of  the  executive.  That, 
like  the  old  International  Potato  Society, 
and  which  carried  out  in  its  time  such  splendid 
Potato  shows  in  and  near  London,  should 
be  composed  chiefly  of  amateurs  and  gardeners, 
or  of  those  having  little  or  no  pecuniary 
interest  in  the  trade.  Such  an  executive  it 
would  not  be  difficult  to  form  provided  the 
backing  of  numerous  subscribing  members  to 
such  a  society  were  forthcoming.  That  our 
market  methods  of  vegetable  culture  and  of  mar- 
keting needs  great  improvement  there  can  be  no 
doubt.  The  public  sees  only  at  exhibitions  the 
fine  produce  of  high-class  gardens,  but  can  pur- 
chase none  so  admirable  in  the  markets  or  shops. 
A  national  society  might  do  much  in  the  direction 
of  bettering  these  things.  In  holding  an  exhibi- 
tion its  aims  should  be  rather  to  encourage  the 
highest  quality  and  not  size.  An  ideal  table 
sample  needs  creating,  and  this  should  form  the 
basis  of  class  requirements  as  well  as  of  judging. 
There  are  many  other  directions  in  which  a 
vegetable  society  could  operate  with  great  use- 
fulness.— A.  D. 
Price  of  home-gpown   Apples.— 

Having  just  read  "A.  D.'s  "  note  on  "  Well-kept 
Apples"  in  The  Garden  of  February  27  (page 99), 
it  seems  to  me  that  the  British  public  is 
beginning  to  realise  the  value  of  home-grown 
fruit.  During  the  past  fifty  years  the  facilities 
for  obtaining  almost  every  kind  from  other 
countries  have  increased  so  vastly  that  Apples 
can  now  be  had  all  the  year.  Certainly  it  does 
not  pay  anyone  to    pack  and   pay  carriage  for 


April  24,  1909. 


THE     GAKDEN. 


199 


seoond-olass  fruit,  and  no  one  has  realised  this 
more  than  the  foreigner.  One  is  glad  to  note 
that  some  of  our  home  growers  are  realising  this 
also.  In  consequence,  the  importations  have  been 
of  Apples  that  have  colour  and  appearance,  and 
with  this  good,  even  samples.  This  being  the 
ease,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  these  caught 
the  public  taste,  when  compared  with  the  mixed, 
uneven  and  often  poor  samples  grown  and  sent 
to  market  by  so  many  home  growers  ;  and  even 
at  the  present  time  we  have  far  too  many  of  this 
class.  Every  grower  of  Apples  knows  that  some 
of  our  best  sorts  for  flavour  have  not  the  best 
appearance,  particularly  when  they  are  badly 
grown.  Still,  we  have  always  had  sorts  of  good 
appearance,  and  in  proof  of  this  I  would  mention 
Golden  Noble,  Bess  Pool  and  Blenheim  Orange. 
These  are  not  new  varieties,  and  I  doubt  when 
well  grown  if  any  three  sorts  that  can  be  named 
and  are  imported  can  surpass  them.  In  proof  of 
this,  during  the  past  six  months  I  have  been 
observing  the  prices  of  these  and  other  English 
Apples  in  some  of  our  best  fruiterers'  shops,  com- 
paring them  with  those  imported.  One  of  the 
best  fruiterers  in  this  place  has  been  showing 
many  really  good  home-grown  sorts  for  months 
past.  At  the  dose  of  January  I  saw  that  good 
old  variety  Bess  Pool  in  the  window,  and,  wish- 
ing to  try  it,  bought  one.  This  was  a  fair  size 
and  good  colour  and  cost  Id.  These  were  marked 
at  5d.  per  pound,  and  sold  readily  at  that  price. 
The  flavour  was  excellent  and  the  fruit  sound 
and  fresh.  The  fruiterer  above  referred  to  told 
me  he  had  not  bought  any  foreign  Apples  this 
season,  his  customers  preferring  home  grown, 
and  he  added  that  he  disposed  of  a  good  many 
in  a  week.  I  have  seen  Bramley's  Seedling, 
Annie  Elizabeth  and  many  fine  cooking  sorts, 
with  grand  Cox's  Orange  Pippin.  This  last  and 
other  good  dessert  Apples  he  was  oS'ering  at  4d. 
to  6d.  per  pound.  Another  fruiterer  recently  said 
he  was  obliged  to  keep  home-grown  Apples, 
because  some  of  his  customers  would  not 
have  imported  ones.  All  this  goes  to  show  there 
is  money  in  Apple-growing  when  thoroughly 
understood  and  the  land  is  suitable. — John 
Crook,  Gamherley. 

Burning  sulphur  In  fruit  houses. 
There  are  instances  where  the  owners  of  fruit 
houses  are  driven  almost  to  acts  of  desperation 
from  the  incessant  infestations  of  insect  pests 
during  the  growing  seasons.  Fumes  from  burnt 
sulphur  have  long  since  been  recognised  as  a 
deadly  antidote,  of  which  no  living  insect  is 
believed  to  have  the  power  of  defiance.  But  it 
is  only  the  most  inexperienced  pupil  who  will 
run  the  risk  of  adopting  burnt  sulphur  as  a 
remedy,  because  vegetable  life  succumbs  as 
quickly  as  does  that  of  insect  when  subject  to 
sulphurous  fumes  generated  from  actual  fire. 
The  new  patent  sulphur  vaporiser  is,  however, 
an  appliance  which  may  safely  be  used  for  dis- 
seminating sulphur  fumes  in  vapour,  and  they 
are  used  by  many  gardeners  very  successfully  for 
red  spider  and  mildew  attacks  in  the  growing 
seasons.  Flowers  of  sulphur  enters  often  largely 
into  the  formulae  employed  for  winter  dressings 
for  fruit  trees,  and  especially  when  red  spider  is 
the  insect  to  be  combated,  for  it  succumbs 
quickly  to  its  influence.  Since  the  introduction 
of  nicotine  emulsions  red  spidor  has  lost  some  of 
its  old  terrors,  for  these  are  even  more  potent  in 
their  action  than  sulphur,  which  is  admitting 
much.  Prescriptions  for  the  dressing  of  fruit 
trees  when  red  spider  is  the  principal  adversary 
should  now  include  nicotine  as  one  of  the 
principal  items,  for  it  has  been  proved  most 
conclusively  that  this  otherwise  insidious  enemy 
of  the  garden  cannot  thrive  in  an  atmosphere  of 
nicotine.  Valuable  as  is  this  poisonous  extract 
for  winter  dressings  in  fruit  houses,  I  would 
warn  the  inexperienced  against  its  use  on  trees 
having  fruit  in  any  stage  of  advance,  because 
there  remains  a  taint  so  insistent  that  time  does 
not  appear  to  have  the  merit  of  removing  it. 
On  nude  trees  no  harm  follows  its  use,  nor  on  trees 
or  plants  for  ornament  only  ;  but  no  fruit  can 


resist  its  subtle  taint  if  used  on  such  trees  in  any 
of  their  fruiting  stages.  To  the  very  reliable 
prescription  given  on  page  60,  viz.,  equal  quanti- 
ties of  sulphur,  lime  and  clay  prepared  as  a 
paint,  add  a  small  quantity  of  nicotine  emulsion, 
say,  one  wineglassful  to  each  half  gallon,  and  stir 
thoroughly  to  ensure  its  being  well  mixed — W. 
Strognell. 

A  fine  Rhododendron  (Azalea) 
Indicum. — Having  a  rather  fine  Rhododen- 
dron (Azalea)  indicum  in  bloom  in  the  conserva- 
tory here,  my  employer,  the  Rev.  E.  F.  Smith, 
had  it  photographed,  and  I  enclose  a  photograph 
for  reproduction  in  'The  Garden,  of  which  I  am 
a  regular  reader.  [See  page  202.]  It  is  a  fine 
plant,  measuring  5  feet  across  and  over  5  feet  in 
height,  and  when  photographed  it  had  over  700 
blooms.  It  has  been  watered  only  with  rain- 
water and  a  little  Clay's  Fertilizer.  I  find 
Oxford  water  does  not  suit  these  shrubs. — 
William  Hebbobn,  The  Garden,  153,  Banbury 
Road,  Oxford. 

Dendroblum  wardlanum.  —  I   am 

sending  you  a  photograph  of  Dendrobium  wardi- 
anum  for  The  Garden.     It  is  now  (March  17) 


A   WELL-FLOWERED  DBNDEOBI0M    WARDIANUM. 

in  bloom  and  carrying  108  flowers  on  growths 
ranging  from  2J  feet  to  4  feet  in  length.  It  has 
been  admired  by  all  who  have  seen  it.  — William 
Preeoe  (Gardener  to  Mrs.  Waddingham),  Guiting 
Gfranye,  Ghellenham, 

Rose    Mme.    Alfred    Carrlere.— I 

can  quite  endorse  "Sub-Rosa's"  remarks  on 
Rose  Mme.  Alfred  Carri^re  in  your  issue  of 
February  27.  For  hardiness  as  well  as  beauty 
this  climber  can  hardly  be  surpassed,  and  as 
evidence  of  the  former  I  may  say  that  not  only 
have  I  picked  blooms  continuously  well  into  the 
winter,  but  on  the  Christmas  Days  of  1906  and 
1908  the  same  bushes  have  supplied  enough 
excellent  blooms  to  partly  decorate  the  dinner- 
table.  The  pergola  is  very  exposed  to  the  south- 
west wind  (the  prevailing  wind  in  these  parts), 
which  creates  at  times  serious  havoc  with  the 
tender  shoots.  The  soil  is  gravel,  with  a  top  spit 
of  from  6  inches  to  12  inches  of  light  mould.  It 
is  an  undertaking  of  some  labour  to  dig  and  make 
suitable  beds  in  this  neighbourhood,  the  gravel 
being  so  hard  that  the  pickaxe  has  to  be  freely 
used.  It  is  not  an  ideal  spot  for  Rose-growing  ; 
nevertheless,  Mme.  Alfred  Carri^re  flourishes. — 
E.  W.  C,  Lymiiiyton. 


HIPPEASTRUMS  AT  MESSRS. 
JAMES  VEirCH  AND  SONS' 
NURSERIES 

A  T  the  present  time  when  outdoor  gar- 
/%  dening  is  so  much  in  vogue  there  is 

/   %         a     certain    amount    of     indifference 

/  %  displayed  by  many  where  greenhouse 
£  J^     plants   are    concerned,    and,    conse- 

quently, their  many  merits  stand  in 
danger  of  being  overlooked.  Among  the 
brightest  and  most  easily  grown  of  our  spring- 
flowering  greenhouse  plants  the  many  beautiful 
hybrid  Hippeastrums  (or  Amaryllises  as  they 
are  frequently  but  erroneously  called)  must 
occupy  a  front  rank.  We  use  the  term  "  easily 
grown"  advisedly,  because  these  bulbous  plants 
are  considerably  less  trouble  to  bring  to  a  suc- 
cessful issue  than  many  other  occupants  of  the 
greenhouse,  the  one  point  that  proves  a 
stumbling  block  to  many,  but  which  may  be 
easily  avoided,  being  the  treatment  of  the  plants 
after  they  have  flowered,  which  is  the  period 
when  they  need  feeding  well  and  plenty  of  light, 
so  that  embryo  flower-buds  may  be  formed 
ready  for  development  the  next  spring.  This 
point  fully  grasped,  and  a  warm  greenhouse 
temperature  being  available,  the  culture  of  these 
plants  is  simplicity  itself. 

Recently  we  took  a  trip  to  Chelsea  and  called 
at  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and  Sons'  nursery,  which  is 
situated  in  King's  Road.  This  firm  has  for 
many  years  made  a  speciality  of  these  plants, 
and  recently  a  large  new  span-roofed  house  has 
been  prepared  for  their  accommodation.  In  this 
house  are  a  large  centre  stage  and  two  side  stages, 
so  that  the  plants  obtain  the  maximum  amount 
of  light.  These  stages  have  high-raised  edges,  so 
that  beds  of  one  year  old  tan  can  be  made  thereon, 
the  pots  containing  the  plants  being  plunged  to 
their  rims  in  this.  About  3,000  plants  were 
seen,  many  of  them  being  only  two  and  a-halt 
years  old  and  in  5-inoh  pots,  yet  they  were 
flowering  freely  and  in  perfect  health.  The 
fact  that  such  magnificent  specimens  can  be 
obtained  in  so  small  pots  should  commend  them  to 
all  who  have  much  decorative  work  to  carry  out. 

Of  course,  those  plants  which  are  only  two  and 
a-half  years  old  are  now  flowering  for  the  first 
time,  and  the  splendid  forms,  pure  colours  and 
robust  constitutions  that  generally  prevailed 
reflected  the  greatest  credit  on  those  responsible 
for  the  crossing  of  the  parents,  which  was  evi- 
dently done  with  an  eye  to  all-round  improve- 
ment. 

Although  we  cannot  attempt  to  give  here  any- 
thing like  an  exhaustive  list  of  the  best  varieties 
seen,  mention  of  a  few  may  be  of  interest  and 
value.  Foremost  comes  Marsus,  a  splendid 
scarlet  crimson  self  with  broad,  firm,  slightly  re- 
flexed  petals  and  perfect  form.  Romola  is  a 
very  large  scarlet  which  has  extra  broad  petals. 
Myca  is  a  fine  dark  crimson,  this  colour  gradually 
becoming  lighter  until  it  is  scarlet  at  the  tips  of 
the  segments.  A  good  companion  to  this  is 
Euphrasia,  a  sturdy  plant  with  massive  dark 
red  flowers.  Adeira  is  almost,  but  not  quite, 
pure  white,  a  slight  tinge  of  pink  showing 
through,  but  it  is  a  lovely  flower.  Letitia  has 
an  unusual  blossom,  the  upper  petals  being  bright 
scarlet,  the  lower  ones  freely  flaked  with  white. 
Enid,  again,  is  very  attractive,  the  creamy 
white  ground  colour  being  marked  with  red 
streaks  at  the  bases  of  the  upper  segments. 

In  addition  to  these  beautiful  Hippeastrums, 
many  other  good  and  interesting  greenhouse  plants 
may  be  seen  at  these  Chelsea  nurseries ;  indeed,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  name  a  plant  that  the  firm 
cannot  supply.  A  survey  of  the  numerous  houses 
wherein  were  such  subjects  as  Orchids,  Water 
Lilies,  greenhouse  and  stove  climbers  and  foliage 
plants,  insectivorous  plants.  Bamboos,  Plumbagos, 
Passion  Flowers  and  hosts  of  other  good  things, 
including  some  fine  specimens  of  Medinilla  mag- 
nifica,  proved  to  us  that  the  stock  is  both  extensive 
and  healthy. 


200 


THE    GARDEN. 


[AVBiL  24,  1909. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


DAFFODIL    NOTES. 

Recistration     of     Names. 

1~^  HE  Narcissus  committee  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  has  recently 
been  considering  the  important  ques- 
tion of  name  registration.  Up  to  the 
present  anyone  could  registei  as  many 
names  as  one  pleased,  whether  they 
really  belonged  to  a  plant  or  whether  they  were 
sent  in  order  that  they  might  be  used  on  some 
future  occasion.  This  is  unsatisfactory.  The 
further  consideration  of  the  question  is  post- 
poned until  May  4,  when  it  is  hoped  a  satisfac- 
tory solution  may  be  found. 

The  problem  may  be  thus  stated  :  (1)  Every 
flower  should  have  a  name  of  its  own,  which 
should  be  registered,  provided  that  (2)  it  has  a 
reasonable  chance  of  becoming  a  permanent 
variety  and  that  (3)  it  is  above  the  rubbish-heap 
standard.  The  committee  of  the  Midland 
Society  has  suggested  three  flowers,  with  the 
sender's  description,  as  the  number  necessary  for 
registration.  If  in  addition  a  small  fee  of,  say, 
a  shilling  were  charged,  and  if,  too,  the  com- 
mittee reserved  to  itself  the  power  to 
refuse  worthless  varieties,  it  seems  to  me  that 
the  difficulty  might  be  met.  Three  flowers 
would  mean  that  the  plant  was  not  likely  to  die 
out ;  the  description  would  be  a  record  of  the 
type  of  flower  ;  and  the  fee  and  the  power  of 
refusal  would  prevent  an  abuse  of  registration 
and,  at  the  same  time,  afford  the  public  a 
guarantee  that  that  particular  plant  is  worth  a 
name.  This,  of  course,  is  quite  a  different  thing 
from  giving  an  award  of  merit,  and  the  two 
must  not  be  confused. 

The  Exceptional  Season. 
It  was  a  sign  of  this  exceptional  j'ear  that 
there  was  not  a  single  flower  before  the  com- 
mittee on  the  6th  inst.  I  fear  the  hot,  drying 
days  and  the  cold  nights  of  Easter  week,  although 
very  acceptable  for  the  holiday  folk,  will  have  a 
somewhat  disastrous  effect  on  the  flowers.  My 
own  are  coming  small  in  size  and  of  poor  sub- 
stance. They  are  also  short  in  the  stem.  Unless 
we  get  some  warm,  genial  rain  soon  the  season 
will  be  a  short  one. 

At  Vincent  Square  on  April  6 
there  were  some  very  nice  groups  shown.  Messrs. 
Cartwright  and  Goodwin  liad  another  beautiful 
exhibit  of  flowers  opened  under  glass,  for 
which  they  received  a  silver  Flora  medal.  There 
were  three  or  four  varieties  that  were  particularly 
fine,  e.g.,  Weardale  Perfection,  Fusilier,  Beacon 
and  Castile.  The  last  named  seems  peculiarly 
suited  for  growing  in  pots  for  very  late  forcing. 
The  unique  colouring  is  softened  and  the  amber 
of  the  perianth  seems  just  the  shade  to  go  with 
the  apricot  orange  cup.  There  was  a  good  vase 
of  Outpost,  which  may  be  described  as  a  hand- 
some, early,  large  trumpet  with  Glory  of  Leiden 
colouring.  It  opens  with  me  at  the  same  time  as 
Uuke  of  Bedford,  and  on  this  account  is  valu- 
able. Armorel  is  another  early  variety  ;  it  has 
a  rather  pointed  white  perianth  and  a  flat  cup 
with  a  distinct  orange  red  edge.  Mariette  is  a 
pretty  little  flower  with  a  deep  yellow,  flat  cup, 
edged  red. 

The  most  interesting  exhibit  was  that  of  Mr. 
Charles  Pawson  of  Penzance,  because  it  was  very 
largely  composed  of  new  seedlings.  Most  were 
under  numbers  ;  289  is  a  delightful  seedling  from 
cyclamineus  and  King  Alfred,  and  is  of  the 
richest  yellow  colouring,  possessing  a  long, 
graceful  trumpet  and  a  reflexed  perianth ;  91  and 
419  are  two  yellow  incomparabilis,  the  former 
with  a  straight  Bernardii  cup,  while  in  the  latter 
it  was  more  expanded  and  the  whole  flower  a 
deeper  yellow ;  324  and  77  were  two  giant 
Leedsii.  Tita,  shown  in  the  centre  of  the  stand, 
is  a  splendid  incomparabilis  which  suggests  an 
intensified  Barri   conspicuus,  with  a  cup  rather 


more  flattened  than  in  that  grand  old  variety. 
Diogenes,  a  pale  bicolor  large  trumpet,  and  Mace- 
bearer,  a  robust-looking  large  cup  after  the  type 
of  Leonie,  must  also  be  noticed. 

Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  had  a  good  many  of 
the  Daffodils  that  figure  on  the  coloured  pages  of 
their  catalogue  as  "New  Seedlings."  Lady 
Audrey,  Pyramus  and  Pharaoh  are  three  good 
pale-coloured  trumpets.  Royal  Star  is  a  large, 
showy,  flat-crowned  sort  that  showed  very 
prominently  among  the  others.  Sirdar  is  one  of 
the  very  best  of  all  the  new  giant  Leedsii,  of 
which  White  Queen  has  been  the  forerunner.  It 
is  still  priced  at  ten  guineas  a  bulb — unfortunately 
for  limited  purses.  Fairy  Queen  was  on  this 
stand  as  well  as  on  others.  The  more  I  see  of 
this  flower  the  more  am  I  struck  with  its  beauty. 
It  is  a  small  and  more  refined  Mrs.  Langtry,  and 
on  account  of  its  being  easy  to  force,  is  very 
valuable  for  potwork. 

Miss  Currey  sent  some  early  Daffodils  from 
Ireland.  The  characteristic  feature  of  her  group 
was  the  selection  of  small-growing  varieties  that 
are  suitable  for  rockwork.  Now  that  a  rookery 
is  becoming  an  almost  necessary  adjunct  of  a 
garden,  this  was  a  happy  thought  of  hers,  and  it 
will  be  of  interest  if  I  give  the  names  of  some  of 
them.  The  collection  included  Macleayi,  Oporto 
Yellow,  Golden  Dwarf,  Cabeceiras,  Countess  of 
Desmond  (pale  Captain  Nelson  yellow)  and 
Tridymus  S.  A.  de  Graaff.  If  Nanus,  Lobularis 
and  W.  P.  Milner  were  added,  the  whole  would 
form  an  excellent  and  varied  selection. 

Mr.  Frank  Lilley  had  a  bright-looking  lot  of 
flowers.  Dandy  Dick  is  a  showy  incomparabilis 
with  a  bold,  crimped  cup,  margined  with  orange 
red.  Defiance  is  a  large  trumpet  with  a  pale 
yellow  perianth.  There  were  also  a  good  many 
Polyanthus  varieties,  such  as  Maestro,  President 
Harrison  and  Bayelman  Major.  This  last  is  very 
near  a  Poetaz  and  is  very  good  for  pots. 

Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath,  Limited,  of  Wisbech  had 
some  well-grown  Tulips,  among  which  a  bowl  or 
two  of  Rose  Gris-de-lin  took  my  eye.  It  is  an 
admirable  sort  to  grow  in  pots  or  fibre,  being 
dwarf  in  habit,  good  in  constitution  and  pleasing 
in  the  shape  of  its  flowers.  There  was  only 
one  Daffodil — at  least,  only  one  that  I  had  eyes 
for — and  that  was  a  magnificent  new  incompara- 
bilis that  "the  storks  ''  had  brought  here  in  the 
early  morning.  Later  in  the  day  I  was  present 
at  the  christening,  and  very  appropriately  it  was 
named  Refulgence.  Picture  a  fine  large  flower 
with  wide,  incurving  perianth  segments,  a  little 
like  in  their  pose  to  the  decorative  Frank  Miles  ; 
picture  in  the  middle  of  these  a  wide  and  redder 
Gloria  Mundi  cup  and  the  whole  gracefully  hung 
on  a  strong  stem,  and  you  have  an  idea  of  this 
fine  new  variety.  In  concluding  these  notes,  I 
must  just  allude  to  Messrs.  Carter's  glorious  bank 
of  King  Alfred  and  a  delightful  pan  of  Narcissus 
cyclamineus  that  graced  Mr.  Reuthe's  collection 
of  spring  flowers.  Joseph  Jacob. 

SEED-SOWING  IN  THE  FLOWER 
GARDEN. 
What  a  wealth  of  flowers  may  be  raised  from 
seed  sown  in  the  open  ground  !  In  making  a 
selection  there  is  not  much  difficulty  as  to  the 
kinds  to  choose,  but  rather  the  puzzle  is  which  to 
omit.  Hardy  annuals  comprise  the  largest  section 
which  is  sown  in  the  spring,  and  in  every  garden, 
large  and  small,  many  of  these  deservedly  popular 
flowers  are  largely  relied  upon  both  for  present- 
ing pleasing  features  in  beds  and  borders  and  also 
for  the  supply  of  cut  flowers.  A  rich,  deeply 
dug,  fairly  light  soil  is  the  best  for  annuals 
generally,  although  some  of  the  stronger  growers, 
such  as  Nasturtiums  and  Convolvuluses,  will 
succeed  well  in  a  somewhat  heavy  soil,  providing 
it  is  not  too  wet  and  has  been  well  prepared  by 
deep  digging.  Before  sowing  the  soil  should  be 
well  pulverised  and  levelled  with  the  rake.  Fine 
weather  is  essential,  and  the  work  should  be  done 
when  the  soil  is  in  a  workable  condition. 
When  sowing  very  small  seeds  of  choice  annuals 


too  much  importance  cannot  be  paid  to  the 
thorough  preparation  of  the  soil.  In  some  cases 
it  is  advisable  to  prepare  some  finely  sifted  soil 
for  covering  the  seeds  when  these  are  very  small 
and  the  soil  of  the  garden  rather  heavy,  lumpy, 
or  otherwise  not  all  that  can  be  desired.  A  little 
extra  care  in  this  way  often  results  in  success 
where  previously  only  indifferent  results  were 
obtained.  Seeds  should  not  be  covered  too  deeply  ; 
a  general  rule  is  to  cover  them  with  the  depth  of 
their  diameter. 

When  sowing  beds  of  hardy  annuals,  or 
even  in  borders  between  other  plants,  I  prefer 
drills  to  sowing  broadcast ;  seed  is  economised 
and  can  be  better  covered  a  regular  depth, 
the  seedlings  can  be  easily  thinned  and 
weeds  removed  from  among  them.  Should  the 
weather  be  dry  when  the  young  plants  appear, 
they  should  be  watered  overhead  through  a  fine- 
rosed  watering-pot.  Thinning  out  will  be  the 
next  important  operation,  and  this  should  be 
done  during  showery  weather  if  possible.  No 
harm  accrues  to  the  remaining  plants  when  the 
soil  is  moist,  and  if  desired  many  of  the  seedlings 
may  be  safely  transferred  to  other  quarters  under 
these  suitable  conditions.  The  soil  around  the 
plants  should  be  constantly  stirred,  taking  care 
not  to  injure  the  foliage  or  roots.  Many  annuals 
are  of  very  branching  growth,  and  a  second 
thinning  may  be  necessary  as  the  young  plants 
develop.  Annuals  are  seldom  over-thinned,  but 
frequently  suffer  through  insufficient  space  to 
develop,  and,  consequently,  cannot  fully  display 
their  beauty. 

Some  of  the  taller-growing  annuals  need  light 
supports  ;  this  is  best  afforded  by  placing 
some  Birch  or  Hazel  twigs  about  them.  This 
may  be  neatly  done  without  making  the  sticks 
too  prominent,  and  the  work  should  be  done 
before  the  plants  fall  over  for  want  of  support, 
otherwise  it  is  difficult  to  keep  the  beds  neat. 
Climbing  annuals,  such  as  Convolvuluses,  Tropaeo- 
lums  and  Thunbergias  will  need  taller  and 
stronger  supports ;  they  may  also  be  used  for 
covering  fences,  trellises,  iS:c.,  as  desired.  A  suc- 
cession of  annuals  may  be  kept  up  by  sowing  from 
the  middle  of  March  to  the  end  of  May.  There 
are  many  beautiful  annuals  suitable  for  all  gar- 
dens— dwarf,  medium,  tall  and  climbing — and 
by  selecting  varieties  best  suited  for  the  purposes 
for  which  they  are  required  an  interesting  and 
pleasing  effect  may  be  produced.  C.  Ruse. 


SWEET  PEA  GHAT. 
Thinnino  Out. — Has  the  gardener,  amateur 
or  professional,  yet  been  born  who  can,  after 
having  sown  the  seeds  a  great  deal  too  thickly, 
find  it  in  his  heart  to  thin  out  sufficiently  ?  1 
doubt  it.  Still,  those  who  would  achieve  the 
finest  results  positively  must  allow  the  plants  an 
ample  amount  of  space,  for  it  is  only  then  that 
they  will  do  themselves  full  justice.  Many 
inexperienced  growers  assert  that,  if  they  lose 
somewhat  in  size  and  substance  of  the  blooms  by 
overcrowding,  they  gain  in  the  actual  number  of 
stems,  but  this  is  by  no  means  the  case.  At  one 
given  time  the  crowded  plants  may  carry  rather 
more  flowers  ;  but  take  the  succession  from  the 
start  to  the  finish,  and  it  will  be  found  that  the 
thin  plants  are  easy  winners  in  quality,  colour  and 
numbers.  Look  at  the  matter  from  all  points 
and  study  it  as  much  as  may  be,  and  the 
incontrovertible  fact  remains  that  thinness  is  all 
in  favour  of  the  cultivator.  Therefore,  in  the 
thinning  out  carry  it  to  a  proper  distance. 
There  may  be  some  soils  and  situations  in  which 
a  plant  will  thrive  perfectly  at  a  distance  of 
8  inches  from  the  neighbours  on  each  side  of  it ; 
but,  generally  speaking,  12  inches  is  the  ideal 
distance  for  plants  grown  especially  for  the 
adornment  of  the  garden  and  for  producing  an 
abundance  of  flowers  for  cutting.  Should  a  row 
be  at  all  gappy,  one  can  utilise  the  thinnings  to 
fill  it  up,  provided  that  the  lifting  is  done 
carefully  and  the  replanting  is  carried  out  forth- 
with, while,  if  desired,  the  seedlings  removed  can 


April  24,  1909.J 


THE     GAKDEN. 


201 


and  do  not  let  them  oome  back  again 
until  the  soil  is  approaching  dryness. 
Thorough  soakings  such  as  this,  given 
with  judgment,  do  immense  good, 
while  driblets  night  after  night  do 
a  considerable  amount  of  harm  and 
must  be  avoided.  Spencer. 


SAXIFRAGA  APICULATA 
ALBA. 
This  ia  a  pure  white  form  of  the  well- 
known  and  beautiful  pale  yellow- 
flowered  S.  apiculata,  and  will  un- 
doubtedly prove  a  useful  acquisition 
to  the  early-flowering  Saxifrages.  It 
was  fully  described  on  page  195  of  our 
issue  for  last  week.  When  shown 
before  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
on  the  6th  inst.  by  The  Guildford 
Hardy  Plant  Nurseries  it  received  an 
award  of  merit. 


CROCUS 


VERSI- 


NEW  SAXIFRAIIA   APICULATA   ALBA.     (Xatimi  : 

be  used  to  form  other  complete  rows  or  clumps. 
One  does  not  like  to  see  healthy  plants  wasted, 
but  rather  allow  this  than  packing,  which  will 
prejudice  the  prospects  of  success  to  a  most 
serious  extent. 

Planting  Out. — In  many  districts  the  season 
is  BO  late  that  it  has  not  been  possible  to  complete 
the  planting  out  even  now,  but  there  is  no 
question  that  it  ought  to  be  finished  as  soon 
as  can  be  managed.  Ho  not,  of  course, 
attempt  to  do  it  when  the  soil  is  sodden  with 
water,  but,  apart  from  that  state,  let  nothing 
stand  in  the  way  of  the  operation.  Much 
unnecessary  worry  is  felt  by  some  growers  over 
the  point  as  to  whether  the  clumps  of  plants 
grown  in  pots  should  be  planted  intact  or  if 
they  should  be  separated.  It  ia  wholly  a  matter 
of  opinion  ;  but  provided  that  the  work  is 
properly  done,  I  think  that  one  should  always 
give  the  preference  to  separation.  It  is  impera- 
tive that  care  shall  be  taken  not  to  damage  the 
roots,  and  if  this  is  given  and  the  planting  is 
carried  out  quickly,  there  will  not  be  the  slightest 
check  to  the  progress  of  the  plant  that  can  be 
directly  ascribed  to  the  fact  that  the  plants  were 
pulled  apart  at  the  time  of  planting. 

Waterini;. — This  should  never  be  commenced 
until  the  day  of  compulsion.  As  long  as  the 
soil  continues  pleasantly  moist  it  is  neither  neces- 
sary nor  desirable  to  have  recourse  to  artificial 
watering,  and  when  one  has  to  rely  exclusively 
upon  cold  water  from  mains  it  becomes  still  more 
important  to  put  off  the  evil  day.  That  water- 
ing does  good  everyone  is  bound  to  admit,  but 
persistent  cold  applications  to  the  soil  will  drive 
the  roots  downwards,  destroy  many  of  the 
feeders  and  give  an  effectual  check  to  the  pro- 
gress of  the  plant.  Always  obviate  the  necessity 
for  watering  by  surface-hoeing  with  the  Dutch 
hoe  or,  and  rather  better  in  the  majority  of 
instances,  by  mulching  the  surface  with  short, 
sweet  manure  ;  but  when  the  time  does  oome  for 
water  to  be  given,  let  the  drink  be  no  stinted 
one.  On  the  contrary,  give  sufficient  to  soak 
down  3  feet  into  the  ground,  and  to  ensure  this 
at  least  three  gallons  to  the  square  yard  will  be 
required.  This  quantity  will  not,  however,  be 
enough  on  light,  sandy  soils  overlying  gravel, 
for  which  five  gallons  to  the  square  yard  is  by 
no  means  too  much.  When  this  has  been  done, 
drive  all  thoughts  of  watering  from  the  mind, 


SIEBERI 
COLOR. 
This  is  a  very  beautiful  spring-flowering 
Crocus  and  was  described  on  page  171 
of  The  Garden  for  the  3rd  inst.  The 
general  colour  is  dark  violet  or  plum, 
the  leaves  being  prettily  striated.  It 
was  shown  by  Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  Keston, 
Kent,  on  March  23,  when  it  received 
an  award  of  merit,  an  honour  that  a 
Crocus  seldom  obtains.  We  cannot 
have  too  many  good  things  among  our 
spring  flowers,  as  they  oome  at  a  season  when 
brightness  and  beauty  is  much  appreciated. 


COLOURED    PLATE. 

PLiATB      1872. 


') 


T 


sent  out 
Burnett's 


CARNATION    LADY    DAINTY. 

An  Old  Type  Revived. 

HE  Carnation  figured  in  the  plate  was 
raised  in  Messrs.  H.  Low  and  Sons' 
nurseries  from  a  purple  seedling,  with 
Enchantress  blood  in  it,  and 
Lady  Bountiful.  It  first 
flowered  in  1905,  and  is  to  be 
this  year.  It  resembles  Mr. 
Marmion  and  the  American 
Prosperity  (see  Coloured  Plate  No.  III. 
in  "  The  American  Carnation,"  by  C.  W. 
Ward)  in  the  way  the  colour  is  laid  on 
the  petals.  I  advisedly  say  laid  on,  for 
it  is  charapteristic  of  this  type  that  the 
underneath  of  the  petals  is  white,  while 
the  colour  just  looks  as  if  it.  had  been 
painted  by  hand  on  the  upper  side  so  as 
to  fill  in  the  centres  and  leave  a  white 
margin  round  the  edges.  Mr.  Ward 
describes  Prosperity  as  a  fancy  flake,  and 
from  a  conversation  I  had  with  Mr. 
AUwood,  who  has  passed  many  years  in 
America,  I  am  led  to  believe  that  "flake" 
or  "fancy  flake  "is  the  usual  American  term 
for  this  particular  type.  English  florists, 
however,  mean  something  quite  different 
when  they  use  the  term.  One  of  the 
most  famous  show  flowers  of  the  last  half- 
century  is  the  scarlet  flake  Sportsman, 
which  appeared  as  a  sport  in  1855  and 
can  still  hold  its  own  on  exhibition  stands. 
Here  the  ground  of  the  petals  is  white, 
while  the  red  appears  as  distinct  splashes 
or  flakes,  which  is  very  unlike  the  colour 
scheme  of  Lady  Dainty,  Marmion,  Pros- 
perity or  the  new  American  Luceille.  The 
type  to  which  these  four  flowers  belong 
is  no  new  one.  As  long  ago  as  1733 
flowers  with  the  same  coloration  were 
known  and  classified  by  Philip  Miller  in 
that    grand  old  storehouse  of   our  fore- 


fathers' gardening  ways,  "The  Gardeners'  Dic- 
tionary. "  Writing  under  the  head '  'Cargophyllus, " 
he  says :  "And  first,  I  shall  begin  with  the  Carna- 
tion or  Clove-gilliflower ;  these  the  Florists  dis- 
tinguish again  into  four  classes.  .  .  .  The  fourth 
are  call'd  Painted  Ladies  ;  these  have  their  petals 
of  a  red  or  purple  colour  on  the  upper  side,  and  are 
white  underneath. "  Two  other  references  for  the 
use  of  this  term  in  old  floricultural  literature  are 
(1)  "  The  Compleat  Florist,"  published  by  Duke 
and  Robinson  in  1747,  Plate  26,  Painted  Lady 
Carnation  ;  (2)  Thornton's  "  Temple  of  Flora," 
published  in  1806.  In  the  letterpress  describing 
Carnations  we  find  :  "Florists  distinguish  Carna- 
tions into  four  divisions  .  .  .  second.  Painted 
Ladies,  having  the  petals  of  a  red  or  purple  on 
the  upper  part  only,  and  the  under  side  of  clear 
white."  Both  in  Miller  and  Thornton  the  other 
three  divisions  are  Flakes,  Bizarres  and  Piquettes. 

Reviving,  then,  an  old  and  seemingly  forgotten 
name,  I  would  describe  Lady  Dainty  as  a 
refined  flower  of  the  Painted  Lady  type,  with 
pale  colouring  of  a  claret  purple  tone  ;  exceed- 
ingly sweet,  with  a  nice  full  centre  and  regular 
guard-petals  ;  of  good  size  ;  and  with  long,  stiff 
stems.  The  plant  has  a  compact  habit,  and  is 
said  to  be  very  free. 

Lady  Dainty  is  not  the  only  novelty  that 
Messrs.  Low  intend  to  send  out  in  1909.  She 
will  have  to  keep  her  company  :  (1)  Black  Chief, 
a  large,  deep  velvety  crimson  of  excellent  shape. 
It  is  sweetly  scented  and  has  a  robust  constitu- 
tion. It  is  the  result  of  a  cross  between  The 
President  and  Harlowarden.  The  plant  itself 
reminds  one  of  Mrs.  H.  Burnett,  but  is  a  rather 
stronger  grower.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  it  is 
totally  different  to  the  old  Harlowarden.  It  also 
produces  about  twice  as  many  flowers  as  that 
variety.  (2)  Royal  Purple.  Its  colour  is  what 
its  name  denotes.  The  flowers  are  full  in  the 
centre,  like  Enchantress,  which  was  one  of  its 
parents,  the  other  being  a  purple  seedling.  (3) 
Rival,  a  flower  of  a  delightful  shade  of  cerise- 
salmon,  reminding  one  very  much  of  the  beau- 
tiful Rose  Dori'.  This,  of  course,  is  quite  a 
new  colour  shade  in  these  Carnations.  It  has  a 
high  centre  and  broad  guard-petals,  these 
giving  the  flower  a  very  attractive  and  unique 
appearance.  The  plant  is  of  free  growth  and 
good  habit,  and  is  the  result  of  a  cross  between 


'I 


NEW  CROCUS  SIBBEBI    VERSICOLOR.     (Stttural  size.) 


202 


THE     GARDEN. 


(April  24,  1909. 


two  seedlings  of  great  merit.     Unfortunately,  it 
has  no  scent. 

How  much  one  could  say  about  scent  in 
flowers  1  How  much  a  flower  loses  which  might 
have  scent  but  has  not !  In  the  case  of  the 
Carnation,  over  and  above  the  delicious  charm 
of  the  Old  Clove  smell,  there  is  the  thought 
that  it  was  in  all  probability  because  of  its 
perfume  and  its  aromatic  properties  that  it  has 
been  for  so  very  many  years  an  honoured  occupant 
of  our  English  gardens.  J.  Jacob. 


THE 

HOW 


GREENHOUSE. 


TO    USE    THE    COLD    FRAME 

[In  reply  to  "  Suhiirh  "] 

HOW  best  to  use  a  cold  frame  entirely 
from  the  amateur's  point  of  view, 
and  where  no  greennouse  or  other 
convenience  exists,  will  to  some 
extent  depend  upon  the  particular 
phase  of  gardening  the  individual 
nmateur  would  prefer  to  indulge  in,  and  whether 
vegetables  or  flowers  would  be  most  preferred. 


example,  early  Potatoes  of  the  Ashleaf  type  or 
Sutton's  May  Queen  could  be  grown  therein,  and 
a  crop  of  Early  French  Breakfast  Radish  may  be 
taken  from  the  surface  before  the  Potato  tops 
would  be  in  the  way.  In  another  section  Cauli- 
flower plants  might  be  raised,  also  Lettuce.  In 
the  same  section  Vegetable  Marrow  plants  for 
sale  could  be  raised,  also  Celery,  planting  some 
of  the  Vegetable  Marrows  for  fruiting  when  the 
Cauliflower  plants  had  been  disposed  of,  and 
transplanting  the  Celery  plants  to  the  section 
where  the  Potatoes  were  first  planted,  and  so  on. 
In  the  third  section  flower  seeds  may  be  grown, 
as  Asters,  Pansies,  Zinnias,  Lobelia,  Marguerite 
and  other  Carnations  and  many  more.  Tuberous 
Begonias  could  be  started  for  bedding  out,  and 
cuttings  of  Chrysanthemums  could  be  rooted 
whether  required  for  pot  or  border  cultivation. 
A  summer  crop  might  be  composed  of  Cucumbers 
alone,  and  these  might  be  carried  on  till  the 
arrival  of  frosts.  Thus  you  see  the  advantages 
of  the  manure-bed-heated  frame  are  great. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  your  frame  is  quite  cold, 
you  might  winter  in  it  such  plants  as  Echeverias, 
Calceolarias,  rooted  cuttings  of  Pentstemons  and 
other  subjects,  any  or  all  of   which   in  March 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN. 


A   FINE  RHODODENDRON    (aZALEa)   INDICUM   IN   THE   RIV.    E.    F.    SMITHS   OXFORD   GARDEN.     (See  paije 


If  a  two-light  or  a  three-light  frame  existed,  it 
would  be  possible  to  engage  in  both  to  some 
extent,  while  if  the  "glass  department"  was 
limited  to  a  single-light  frame,  the  operations  also 
would  be  of  a  limited  character.  Even  here, 
however,  such  a  frame  might  prove  a  profitable 
sort  of  pastime,  while  afibrding  not  a  little 
pleasure  to  boot.  But  I  will  discuss  the  merits 
of  the  principle,  leaving  the  details  for  indi- 
viduals to  settle  in  the  way  best  suited  to  their 
own  requirements.  Although  I  have  in  mind  the 
cold  frame  pure  and  simple,  there  is  ever  present 
the  possibility  of  that  very  useful  adjunct  the 
hot-bed,  which  requires  no  attention  beyond  the 
making,  and  which,  furnishing  a  genial  warmth 
to  the  roots  of  plants,  promotes  the  quickest 
growth  and  the  best  possible  development  in  the 
shortest  time.  Moreover,  there  is  the  additional 
fact  that  this  manure  or  hot-bed,  while  furnishing 
warmth  to  certain  crops,  is  also  being  prepared 
for  garden  use  at  a  later  date,  and,  therefore,  is 
valuable  on  that  account. 

Such  a  frame  as  this,  say,  of  three  lights,  may 
be  divided  between  flowers  and  vegetables.     For 


might  be  transferred  to  a  sheltered  border,  and  if 
given  the  protection  of  scrim  or  canvas  would 
permit  of  the  soil  of  the  frame  being  used  for 
sowing  seeds  of  Cabbage,  Brussels  Sprouts, 
Celery  and  other  plants  for  early  cropping. 
Radishes,  Lettuce  and  other  crops  might  be 
grown  in  part  of  the  frame,  the  latter  yielding 
up  these  for  a  crop  of  Cucumbers  or  Vegetable 
Marrows  for  the  summer,  and  so  on.  Just  what 
might  prove  best  depends  entirely  upon  the 
place  in  which  you  live  and  the  possibilities  of 
disposing  of  the  various  produce. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  you  had  a  desire  to 
make  the  most  of  a  frame,  whether  cold  or 
heated  by  manure-beds,  you  would  have  to 
do  it  by  quick  successional  crops,  such  as 
would  find  a  ready  sale  in  your  own  immediate 
district.  And  just  as  a  cold  frame  is  an  excellent 
adjunct  to  the  greenhouse,  so  is  the  sheltered 
border  with  a  9-inch  deal  board  front  and 
canvas-covered  top  for  protection  a  perfectly 
legitimate  and  valuable  adjunct  to  the  oold 
frame  to  admit  of  crop  succeeding  crop  in  quick 
rotation.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


HOW    TO    GROW    FRUIT    TREES    IN 
POTS. 

(Continued  Jrom   page    ISS.J 
Pots  and  Sizes  of  Pots. 

BY  all  means  use  strong,  well-made  pots ; 
this  is  most  essential,  as  there  are 
several  movings  during  the  season 
with  some  risks  of  breakages. 
Soft,  absorbent  pots  are  not  desir- 
able for  obvious  reasons.  The  greater 
number  of  our  trees  are  in  10-inch,  11-inoh 
and  12-inch  pots.  The  largest  are  in  13-inch 
and  14-inoh  pots,  but  none  larger  than  the 
last  named  and  not  many  of  them.  We  are 
very  chary  of  increasing  the  sizes.  This  is 
decided  upon  at  the  time  of  potting.  If  a  tree 
appears  really  to  require  it,  a  larger  pot  is 
provided,  and  if,  on  the  other  hand,  a  smaller 
pot  is  thought  desirable,  it  is  used  instead.  Of 
course,  the  pots  are  well  washed — I  would  not 
think  of  using  them  otherwise — and  they  are 
dry  at  the  time  of  potting.  New  pots  are 
always  well  soaked  before  being 
used.  The  crocks  used  as  drainage 
are  also  clean.  We  crook  carefully 
and  somewhat  freely  also. 

Watering. 

At  the  time  of  potting,  if  a  tree 
be  at  all  dry  at  the  roots,  it  is  soaked 
previous  to  repotting,  i.e.,  after  it 
has  been  taken  out  of  its  pot  and 
the  ball  reduced  sufficiently.  After- 
wards enough  water  is  given  to 
thoroughly  penetrate  the  soil. 
Thence  onwards  but  little  is  needed 
until  the  growth  is  again  active. 
Care  must,  however,  be  exercised 
to  avoid  both  extremes,  either  of 
which  is  harmful.  It  is  only  when 
the  leaf-growth  becomes  active  and 
the  root-aotion  corresponding  thereto 
that  watering  may  be  done  freely. 
It  will  increase  steadily  at  first, 
but  with  warmer  weather  and 
brighter  sunshine  more  rapidly. 
Even  then  it  is  safer  to  err  occasion- 
ally on  the  dry  side,  so  long  as  it  is 
not  carried  too  far,  than  it  is  to  go 
to  the  other  and  opposite  extreme. 
A  sharper  watch  has  necessarily  to 
be  kept  during  bright,  windy 
weather  ;  but  anyone  with  his  wits 
about  him  should  know  this  and 
guard  against  it.  When  the  fruits 
are  advancing  towards  the  ripening 
stage,  with  the  wood-growth  con- 
sequently not  so  active,  less 
water  is  needed,  and  this  will 
assist  in  developing  a  finer  flavour  in  the  fruits. 
Top-dressing. 
This  is  a  most  important  item  in  the  culture 
of  fruit  trees  in  pots.  We  generally  apply  it 
when  root-aotion  becomes  quite  active  and  when 
the  fruits  are  swelling  freely,  and  before  the 
stone  becomes  at  all  hardened.  When  Peaches, 
Nectarines  and  Plums  are  as  large  as  Cob  Nuts, 
it  may  be  attended  to  ;  in  the  case  of  Cherries, 
almost  as  soon  as  the  fruits  are  seen  to  be 
swelling  at  all ;  and  in  that  of  Figs  when  the 
fruits  are  about  half  grown.  This  top-dressing 
is  prepared  with  turfy  fibrous  loam,  some  short 
manure  and  Wakeley's  Hop  Manure.  This  latter 
ingredient  encourages  and  stimulates  a  rapid  root- 
action  in  every  case.  The  mixture  is  applied  to 
the  surface  of  the  soil  next  to  the  rims  of  the 
pots,  making  a  ring  of  it  which  is  pressed  down 
firmly,  being  at  the  finish  about  3  inches  in 
depth.  It  is  surprising  how  soon  the  roots  pene- 
trate this  addition.  We  do  not  remove  this 
top  -  dressing  until  the  time  of  potting  comes 
round  again.  James  Hudson,  V.M.H. 

(To  be  continued.  J 


'■). 


Aprtl  24,  1909.) 


THE     GARDEN. 


203 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


I 


EAKLY-FLOWERING    RHODODEN- 
DRONS. 

N  Devonshire,  Cornwall  and  other  places 
favoured  with  a  similar  climate,  March 
and  April  are  probably  the  two  most 
important  months  in  the  Rhododendron 
season  for  flowers,  while  February,  when 
the  weather  is  mild,  is  often  noted  for  a 
fairly  good  supply  of  bloom.  About  London 
and  further  North  the  season  is  considerably 
later  and  the  profusion  of  bloom  cannot  be 
expected  before  May.  While,  however,  the 
majority  of  sorts  do  not  blossom  until  May  and 
June,  there  are  several  which  open  their  flowers 
at  an  earlier  date,  and  these  are  the  ones  to  which 
attention  is  directed.  The  first 
to  flower  is,  of  course,  the  oft- 
noted  species,  R.  dauricum,  which 
comes  from  Dahuria  and  Mand- 
shuria.  The  rosy  purple  flowers 
of  this  open  in  January  and  Feb- 
ruary. Although  it  is  not  suflB- 
oiently  useful  to  be  recommended 
for  general  cultivation,  it  has 
proved  of  service  to  the  hybri- 
dist, and  several  very  ornamental 
varieties  claim  its  parentage.  The 
pretty  rosy  lilac-flowered  R.  prse- 
oox,  which  is  a  great  favourite 
when  blooming  freely  in  March, 
is  a  hybrid  between  this  and  R. 
oiliatum,  while  Rosy  Bell,  another 
dwarf-growing,  early,  free-flower- 
ing hybrid,  claims  a  certain 
amount  of  dauricum  blood.  A 
very  pretty  free-flowering  variety 
has  been  sent  out  under  the  name 
of  amcenum.  This  blooms  in 
March  and  April,  the  flowers 
being  similar  in  colour  to  those 
of  prsecox.  It  is  unfortunate 
that  this  name  has  been  given  it, 
as  there  is  danger  of  the  plant 
being  confused  with  the  old  Azalea 
amcena  (really  R.  indicum  amte- 
num).  R.  parvifolium  is  another 
early-flowering  species  ;  it  cannot, 
however,  be  said  to  be  very  orna- 
mental, but  is  worthy  a  sheltered 
nook  in  the  rook  garden. 

Among  largte-growing  sorts  the 
principal  is  R.  nobleauum.  This 
is  well  known  in  many  places  as 
a  large,  handsome  bush  12  feet  or 
more  high.  Flowers  sometimes 
open  in  November  and  frequently 
in  January  and  February,  the 
colour  being  a  bright  rosy  red. 
For  early  forcing  it  is  the  most 
useful  of  all  the  early  kinds. 
Several  forms  differing  in  colour 
are  known.  An  early-flowering 
species  which  has  been  stated  to 
be  an  autumn-flowering  Rhodo- 
dendron is  R.  Harrisii.  This  was 
raised  by  Mr.  J.  Harris  of  Swan- 
sea, and  the  red  flowers  open  at 
intervals  between  October  and 
March.  The  variety  George  Cunningham,  some- 
times called  Baron  Ory,  produces  white,  dark- 
blotched  flowers  during  late  March,  while 
Smithii  album  is  a  very  nice  early-flowering 
white.  Early  April  sees  russellianum  superbum, 
a  very  rich  red,  at  its  best.  Some  of  the  large- 
growing  Himalayan  species  thrive  well  about 
London,  and  R.  fulgens  makes  a  nice  display  of 
blood  red  flowers  from  February  to  April,  accord- 
ing to  weather.  R.  campanulatum,  also,  is 
prominent,  the  white,  lilac  or  mauve  flowers 
being  freely  produced.  A  particularly  rioh- 
eoloured  Rhododendron  is  found  in  R.  Thomson!, 
its  long,  crimson  blooms  being  prominent  during 
March  and  April.  W.  D. 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 


A  BEAUTIFUL  RAMBLER  ROSE 
FOR  POT  CULTURE. 
R.  WALSH  of  Wood's  Hole  has 
been  wonderfully  fortunate  in  his 
seedlings  of  rambler  Roses.  One 
of  the  prettiest  is  called  Wedding 
Bells.  It  is  a  blending  of  Crimson 
Rambler  and  Carmine  Pillar  and 
has  a  delightful  colour,  just  that  taking  tint  of 
carnation  pink  seen  in  Begonia  Gloire  de 
Lorraine.  The  individual  blooms  have  two  or 
three  rows  of  petals,  and  each  flower  has  a  clear 
white  eye.  When  we  obtain  trusses  or  trails 
that  contain  some  fifty  blooms  it  may  readily  be 
imagined  what  a  lovely  effect  is  produced  from 


group  are  undoubtedly  splendid  for  the  work, 
which  is  testified  by  the  enormous  number 
grown.  Varieties  of  the  R.  multiflora  group,  to 
which  Wedding  Bells  belongs,  are,  perhaps,  as 
useful  as  any,  for  there  is  more  compactness 
about  their  growth,  which  fits  them  admirably 
for  growing  in  pillar  form.  Blush  Rambler  is 
still  one  of  the  most  popular.  Philadelphia 
Rambler  is  splendid  when  well  grown.  It  even 
surpasses  Crimson  Rambler  under  glass,  and  has 
none  of  that  bad  quality  of  green-centred  buds 
which  it  develops  outdoors.  P. 


ROSE  WM.  ALLEN  RICHARDSON. 
This  beautiful  Noisette  Rose  is  so  well  known 
that  it  is  needless  to  describe  it  here  ;  as  a  wall 
climber  it  is  superb,  the  bright  coppery-coloured 
flowers  being  most  useful  for  buttonholes.  The 
illustration  is  from  a  photograph 
kindly  sent  to  us  by  Mr.  Henry 
Wood,  Lisle  Court  Cottage, 
Lymington,  Hants,  and  represents 
a  good  specimen  of  this  Rose 
trained  on  the  verandah  of  his 
house.  The  photograph  was  taken 
last  summer. 


ROSK   WILLIAM   ALLEN   KICHARD80N   ON   THE   VERANDAH    OF    LISLE   COURT 
COTTAGE,   LYMINGTON,    HANTS. 


a  well-flowered,  pot-grown  specimen.  It  is  of 
very  dense  and  leafy  habit.  The  f oUage  resembles 
in  colour  Carmine  Pillar,  but  it  is  as  small  as 
that  of  B.  Mosohata.  It  has  the  estimable 
quality  of  good  lasting  powers,  the  blooms 
remaining  bright  and  fresh  for  a  considerable 
time.  To  some  extent  this  variety  is  eclipsed 
for  pot  culture  by  that  grand  novelty  Tausend- 
schon  ;  but  its  neat  little  flowers  will  find  many 
admirers. 

These  large-clustered  Roses  are  just  the  type 
to  grow  for  pot  work,  for,  speaking  generally,  it 
is  a  mass  of  bloom  we  require.  There  are  some  of 
the  wiohuraiana  Roses  that  do  not  make  effective 
pot  plants,   but  those  of  the  Dorothy  Perkins 


ROSE  CLIMBING  MRS. 
W.  J.  GRANT. 
There  is  an  increasing  demand 
for  this  Rose,  and  one  is  not  sur- 
prised at  this,  for  it  produces  one 
of  the  loveliest  of  blooms,  having 
all  the  characteristics  of  the  dwarf 
form  without  any  of  its  defects  of 
indifferent  growth.  Climbing 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  is  extra  fine 
when  grown  as  a  standard,  espe- 
cially if  three  buds  are  inserted, 
as  then  one  obtains  a  fine  wide 
head  some  18  inches  through.  On 
such  a  head  of  growth  I  counted 
last  summer  as  many  as  forty 
buds  and  expanded  blooms  at  one 
time.  This  Rose  is  one  of  the 
earliest  of  what  one  may  call  the 
better  class  Roses  to  open,  and  no 
one  should  fail  to  have  several 
pillars  of  it  planted  against  a 
trellis  of  rough  stakes.  They 
commence  to  show  colour  towards 
the  end  of  June,  and  most  useful 
they  are,  the  beautiful,  elongated 
buds  causing  them  to  be  much 
sought  after  for  buttonholes.  I 
think  we  shall  find  Climbing 
Liberty  just  as  useful  and  about 
the  same  habit  of  growth.  I 
must  say  Climbing  Mrs.  W.  J. 
Grant  is  somewhat  erratic.  I 
have  planted  strong  -  looking 
plants,  but  they  have  obstinately 
refused  to  move.  This  is  some- 
what vexing,  but  the  only  plan 
is  to  cut  them  back  hard  so  as 
to  compel  the  lower  eyes  to  burst. 
Of  a  rather  more  scandent  nature. 
Climbing  Captain  Christy  is  a 
delightful  light  pink,  and  should 
be  in  every  garden.  If  a  wall 
is  not  available,  plant  it  against  an  old  tree. 
It  will  grow  well  there.  Another  desirable 
sort  is  Lady  Waterlow,  perhaps  one  of  the 
prettiest  of  recently  introduced  Roses.  It  is 
very  beautiful  with  its  yellow  base  to  every 
pinkish  bud,  and  the  growth  is  fine.  All  of 
these  make  grand  free-headed  standards  and 
also  free  bushes.  In  both  cases  their  beauty 
is  well  displayed.  The  budding  of  climbing 
Roses  on  standards  is  now  being  largely  carried 
out  by  many  of  our  leading  Rose  nurserymen,  so 
that  trees  of  this  character  will  in  the  near 
future  be  easily  procurable,  and  the  planting  of 
them  in  gardens  will  doubtless  be  greatly 
extended  where  effect  is  desired.  P. 


204 


THE     GARDEN. 


[April  24,  1909. 


QARDENI NG      FOR      'BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 


being  placed  among  the  plants  when  the  green 
fruits  are  swelling  freely. 


F^  LOWKR  GARDEN.— Many  herbace 
plants,  such  as  Phloxes,   Michaelmas  i      Oreenhouae  and  Frames. — All  kinds  of  bedding 
4      Daisies  and  Golden  Rods,  will  now  be  '  plants  should  now  be  in  the  frames,  or.  failing 
making    growth   rapidly,    and    much    this,  on  shelves  near  the  glass  in  the  greenhouse, 
good   may  be   done   by  thinning  the    the  chief  work  consisting  of  supplying  them  with 
shoots  in  the  early  stages  of   their    water  and  fresh  air  in  abundance,  so  that  their 
growth.    It  is  a  mistake  to  leave  more  than  three  ,  tissues     become    thoroughly    hardened.       Space 
orfourof  the  strongest  to  each  clump;  these,  if  the    them  out  well  so  that  air   can  circulate  freely 


weakly  ones  are  promptly 
removed,  will  be  quite  suifi- 
cient  to  furnish  the  plant, 
and  will  also  produce  finer 
flowers.  The  soil  between 
all  kinds  of  herbaceous 
plants  may  now  be  freely 
hoed ;  this  will  keep  down 
weeds  and,  at  the  same 
time,  airate  the  soil  and 
prevent  the  free  escape  of 
moisture.  Where  Calceo- 
larias are  to  play  a  part 
in  the  summer  bedding,  no 
time  must  be  lost  in  pre- 
paring the  soil  for  their 
reception,  as  they  should 
be  planted  out  the  first 
week  in  May,  having  pre- 
viously been  thoroughly 
hardened  by  free  exposure 
to  air  and  light.  By  plant- 
ing early  the  sudden 
collapse  which  sometimes 
occurs  among  these  plants 
is,  to  some  extent,  avoided. 

Vegetable  Garden. — More 
salads,  such  as  Lettuces 
and  Radishes,  must  be 
sown  to  follow  the  earlier 
crops.  A  small  sowing  and 
often  is  a  good  motto  to 
observe  when  dealing  with 
them   with   good    soil,    and   if 


among  them.  Young 
Fuchsias  are  now  growing 
rapidly  and  will  require 
repotting  at  frequent 
intervals.  They  like  a 
moderately  rich  soil,  a 
mixture  composed  of  good 
loam  two  parts,  dried,  flaky 
manure  one  part,  with  a 
little  bone-meal  and  sand 
added  suiting  them  admir- 
ably. To  keep  them  in 
good  shape  it  will  be  neces- 
sary with  many  varieties 
to  pinch  out  the  tips  of  the 
shoots  occasionally ;  but  do 
not  dn  this  just  before  or 
directly  after  repotting, 
else  a  double  check  will  be 
given  to  the  plants.  Green- 
house climbers  are  now 
making  masses  of  growth, 
and  in  many  instances 
much  good  will  be  done  by 
removing  early  some,  at 
least,  of  the  weakest  shoots. 
Keep  a  keen  watch  for 
insect  pests  of  all  kinds, 
and  spray,  sponge  or 
vaporise  as  soon  as  the 
enemy  is  detected,  and  so 
prevent  its  spread  and  sub- 
sequent devastation  of  the 
these.  Provide  plants.  For  most  insects  a  light  fumigation 
the    weather   is    once  a  fortnight  is  sufficient  during  the  summer 

H. 


-.\  HliEIILINCl  AURICULA  POTTED  UP  IN  A 
IlEEI'  2J-INCH  I'OT.  IN  WHICH  IT  WILL 
KEMAIN  UNTIL  WELL  ROOTEli.  WHEN 
THE  PLANT  MAY  HE  REPOTTEI>  MR 
PLANTE1>   I'UTDnORS. 


AND    INCREASING    ALPINE 
AURICULAS. 


dry  'they   must    be   frequently  and  thoroughly  months 
watered,  as  quick  growtli  is  absolutely  essential 

if  the  produce  is  to  be  worth  eating.     Finish  off  RAISING 
the  planting  of  maincrop  Potatoes  without  delay, 
as  they  will  now  commence  to  deteriorate  if  left 

out  of  the  ground.    As  these  are  usually  stronger  Primula  Aurudla,  as  botanists  call  it,  is  repre- 

growing  than  the  earlier  varieties,   it  is  a  good  sented  by  two  types.     The  florists'  Auricula  is 

plan  to  allow   a   greater   distance    between  the  one  type,  in  this  instance   having  white-edged, 

rows  and  sets  ;  2  feet  between  the  rows  and  the  grey-edged,  green-edged  and  self-coloured  flowers, 

plants  IS  inches  asunder  is  none  too  much,  and  The  more  beautiful  and  attractive  type,  however, 

some  growers  prefer  to  allow  1  inch  or  2  inches  is  that  known  as  the  alpine  Auricula,  a  class  of 

more.     A  few  dwarf  French  Beans  may  now  be  plants  especially  well  adapted  for  outdoor  border 

put  in  where  a  warm  and  sheltered  spot  is  avail-  culture.    There  may  be  readers  who  would  rather 

able,  but  the  principal  sowing  should  be  deferred  raise  a  batch  of  seedlings  and  grow  on  these  in 

for   another    week   at    least.       Make   the    rows  preference  to  making  a  purchase  of  established 

15   inches   apart   and   sow   three   seeds  at   each  plants,  and  we  will  briefly  tell  how  the  seedlings 

station,  these  being  10  inches  apart.     One  inch  may  be  raised.      Opinions  differ  respecting  the 

is  quite  deep  enough  to  sow  this  early  crop  ;    if  ^  period  when  the  seed   should  be  sown.      Many 

placed   lower   the    seeds    will    probably   try    to  growers  choose  March  as  the  period  for  oommenc- 

germinate  and  then  rot.     The  main   sowing  of  ing  operations.      By  these  means  the  seedlings 

Carrots  must  now  be  made.    Most  growers  prefer  are  apparent  in  good  time,  and  it  is  possible  to 

a  long-rooted  variety  for  this  crop  and  allow  a  hurry  on  a  batch  of  seedling  plants  to  make  a 

distance  of  at  least  12  inches  between  the  rows,  good  show  in  the  succeeding  year.     In  our  judg- 


If  the  weather  is  dry,  well  watei  the  drills 
before  sowing  the  seeds  ;  then  sow  at  onoe  and 
cover  in  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  a  few  hours 
later  tread  the  whole  down  firmly. 


ment  it  is  better  to  make  a  sowing  at  a  later 
period,  as  by  so  doing  it  is  possible  to  utilise  new 
seed  with  a  better  prospect  of  raising  a  greater 
number  of  seedlings.  As  a  rule  the  seed  ripens 
in  July,  and  those  who  wait  until  then  may  pro- 
Fruit  Garden.— Wheie  the  Strawberry-bed  ceed  with  a  greater  certainty  of  success.  Pots 
has  not  been  mulched  with  strawy  manure  as  ;  or  pans  may  be  used  for  the  purpose  of  seed- 
advised  a  few  weeks  ago,  this  work  must  be  done  sowing,  but  we  prefer  ordinary  seed -pans  or 
at  once,  otherwise  the  straw  will  not  be  washed  shallow  boxes  ;  in  deep  boxes  or  pots  the  soil 
clean  by  the  time  it  is  required  to  prevent  the  sometimes  becomes  soured.  Afford  good  drainage 
fruits  being  splashed  by  heavy  rains.  If  it  by  using  plenty  of  crocks,  and  cover  the  latter 
cannot  be  put  on  now,  the  grower  must  rely  on  with  moss  or  some  of  the  rougher  siftings  of  the 
clean   straw   for  the  fruits   to  rest  upon,  this  I  soil  to  prevent  the  finer  particles  working  down 


into  the  drainage.  Suitable  compost  for  seed- 
sowing  should  comprise  sandy  loam  and  leaf- 
mould  in  equal  proportions,  and  these  must  be 
passed  through  a  rather  fine  sieve.  Subsequently 
well  mix  the  heap  of  soil  before  using.  When 
thoroughly  mixed  fill  the  pans,  pots  or  shallow 
boxes  with  the  compost,  preparing  the  drainage 
of  each  receptacle  beforehand  as  already  sug- 
gested. Make  the  surface  soil  quite  level,  and, 
if  possible,  let  there  be  a  layer  of  rather  finer 
soil  placed  on  the  surface  as  a  finale. 

Sow  the  seeds  rather  thinly,  as  it  will  be  so 
much  easier  then  to  lift  the  resulting  seedlings. 
Auricula  seed  takes  three  weeks  to  a  month  to 
germijate.  Many  seeds  will  germinate  even 
after  a  much  longer  period,  and  some  may  not  be 
seen  until  the  succeeding  spring  ;  for  this  reason 
do  not  throw  away  the  soil  in  the  different 
receptacles.  Place  the  seed-pans,  &c. ,  in  the  cold 
frame,  maintaining  the  soil  in  a  pleasantly  moist 
condition  throughout  the  propagating  period. 
When  bottom-heat  is  afforded  this  needs  to  be 
done  with  the  greatest  care.  As  soon  as  the 
seedlings  have  formed  the  third  or  fourth  leaf 
they  should  be  lifted  with  care  and  potted  up 
into  small  pots,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  Boxes  may 
be  used  for  the  same  purpose  if  more  convenient, 
pricking  off  the  seedlings  1  inch  or  2  inches  apart, 
afterwards  placing  the  boxes  in  the  cold  frame 
until  the  succeeding  spring.  This  latter  method 
applies  more  especially  to  seed  sown  in  the  early 
spring. 

By  dividing  the  old  plants  at  the  proper  time 
the  grower  may  very  easily  increase  his  stock  and, 
at  the  same  time,  perpetuate  the  better  plants  in 
his  collection.  Plants  that  have  been  in  the 
border  for  some  three  years  will  have  become 
unduly  large  and  possess  many  ijtisets,  and  they 
should  be  lifted  after  flowering  and  divided  into 
as  many  pieces  as  convenient. 

Fig.  2  represents  a  plant  that  has  been  lifted 
at  the  conclusion  of  the  flowering  season.  It  is 
a  plant  some  three  years  old,  and  has  about  ten 
offsets  with  which  to  increase  and  perpetuate  the 
variety.  The  three  offsets  in  Fig.  .3  represent 
three  of  the  strongest  and  most  vigorous  pieces 
of  the  old  plant  seen  in  Fig.  2.  Note  their  strong 
and  vigorous  character  and  the  plentiful  supply 
of  roots  adhering.  These  divided  pieces  should 
be  potted  up  individually  in  pots  .3  inches  in 
diameter.     Compost  as  recommended  for  raising 

seedlings    will  

answer.  Press 
the  soil  firmly 
round  the  base 
of  the  divided 
pieces  so  that 
the  former  ad- 
heres to  the 
latter. 

Fig.  4  repre- 
sents one  little 
cluster  of  the 
smaller  offsets, 
of  which  there 
are  several  on 
most  old  plants. 
Pieces  of  this 
kind  may  be 
broken  asunder 
quite  easily. 
They  should 
then  be  potted 
up  individually 
in  deep  .3-inch 
pots,  and  will 
make    useful 

Tilor-to      in       thA  2.— AN     AURICULA     PLANT     THREE 

plants    in     the  ^.^^^^  ^^^  ,,p.jj,j,  p^^  .pgj. 

next    flowering  purpose  of  dividing,    note 

season.      Many  the  mas.«  of  growths. 


APRIL,  24,  1909.] 


THE     GAKDEN. 


20^ 


-THREE     OF     THE     STRONGEST     OFFSETS     DETACHED     FROM 
THE   OLD    PLANT    SHOWN    IN    FIG.    2. 


growers  of  the  alpine  Auricula  lift  and  divide 
their  plants  and  plant  the  divided  portions 
in  their  flowering  quarters  straight  away.  This 
may  be  considered  a  somewhat  rough-and-ready 
means  of  dealing  with  them,  and  may  or  may  not 
commend  itself  to  some  readers.  It  is  a  common 
practice  in  the  gardens  of  the  cottager,  and  the 
results  achieved  by  these  means  are  really 
remarkable.  !>•  B.  C. 


ROSES  IN  GREENHOUSES  AND  POTS. 
If  Roses  are  to  be  grown  successfully  planted 
out  in  greenhouses  and  conservatories,  or  grown 
in  flower-pots,  constant  attention  must  now  be 
given  to  their  various  requirements.  In  the  first 
place  free  ventilation  is  most  essential.  The 
branches  are,  as  a  rule,  grown  and  trained  just 
under  the  roof-glass — in  the  case  of  specimens 
planted  in  the  borders — and  if  any  reader,  being 
also  a  cultivator  of  climbing  Roses,  has  placed 
his  head  close  to  the  roof-glass  when  the  sun  was 
shining  brightly,  he  would  realise  how  scoroh- 
ingly  hot  it  was  just  there.  Unless  free  and 
judicious  ventilation  be  the  rule  during  hot 
weather,  the  Roses  will  aufl'er.  It  is  quite  a 
mistake  to  bake  them  in  such  a  way  under  glass, 
aud  the  season  is  now  approaching  when  very 
careful  treatment  is  needed. 

If  mildew  appears  on  the  foliage  no  time  must 
be  lost  in  freeing  it  from  the  fungus.  Boil  gently 
for  twenty  minutes  4oz.  of  soft  soap  in  two 
quarts  of  rain-water,  then  add  -loz.  of  flowers  of 
sulphur  and  boil  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Allow 
the  liquid  to  cool,  and  when  required  for  use  add 
a  tumblerful  of  it  to  one  gallon  of  rain-water 
and  thoroughly  saturate  the  leaves  on  both  sides 
with  the  solution,  using  the  syringe  forcibly. 
Half  the  strength  may  be  used  occasionally  as  a 
preventive. 

Roses  in  Pots.  — The  soil  in  the  pots  will  dry  up 
quickly  at  this  season,  and  if  watering  be 
neglected  much  harm  will  result.  Mildew  will 
infest  the  leaves  of  pot  plants,  too,  especially  if 
the  roots  are  allowed  to  suffer  through  lack  of 
water  occasionally.  It  is  not  advisable,  however, 
to  be  coastantly  pouring  cold  water  into  the  pots, 
as  the  roots  get  chilled  so  much.  The  better  plan 
is  to  plunge  the  pots  in  ashes  or  pack  them  in 
Cocoanut  fibre  refuse,  or  to  place  boards  on  edge 
on  the  sunny  side  of  the  rows  of  pots.  These  latter 
hints  apply  to  young  plants  and  those  that  have 
been  forced  in  pots.  Shamrock. 


THE    PROPER    DISTANCE    APART    TO 
PLANT    BEDDING    PLANTS. 

Vert  shortly  the  work  of  putting  out  the 
bedding  plants  for  the  summer  will  claim  at- 
tention. The  spring  propagation  of  the  plants 
ia  now  being  completed,  and  it  will  be  advisable 
to    examine    the    whole    stock    of     plants    and 


ascertain,  by  carefully  measuring 
the  beds,  whether  it  is  sufficient 
to  duly  fill  them.  Now,  in  putting 
out  the  plants  the  cultivator  must 
make  due  allowance  for  their  future 
growth.  If,  we  will  say,  the  plants 
are  put  out  during  the  end  of 
May  and  the  first  week  in  June, 
the  shoots  and  leaves  ought  to 
almost  touch  each  other  by  the 
middle  of  July.  Of  course,  the 
distance  apart  to  plant  must  really 
depend  upon  the  size  of  the  speci- 
mens when  the  latter  are  put  out. 
Small  ones  must  be  planted  closer 
together  than  large  plants,  so  the 
medium-sized  ones  are  referred  to 
here  as  a  true  guide.  Then  it  would 
be  wise  on  the  part  of  the  culti- 
vator to  make  large,  leggy  plants 
go  as  far  as  possible  ;  that  is,  to 
plant  all  such  in  a  slanting  posi- 
tion, so  as  to  cover  a  good  deal  of 
border  surface.  Calceolaria  plants, 
which  are  7  inches  across,  must 
be  planted  1  foot  apart ;  Zonal  Pelargoniums, 
which  measure  9  inches  across,  ought  to  be 
put  out  at  a  distance  of  1.5  inches  apart ;  Helio- 
trope, 5  inches  in  diameter,  must  be  allowed 
a  distance  between  them  of  10  inches  ;  Fuchsias, 
1  foot  across,  should  be  planted  18  inches  apart  : 
Violas,  intended  for  groundwork,  must  be  put 
out  7  inches  asunder  ;  and  dot  plants  in  the 
same  beds,  such  as  Fuchsias,  Lantanas  or 
Liliums,  3  feet  6  inches  apart.  All  the  distances 
given  are  to  be  measured  from  stem  to  stem  of 
the  plants  and  not  the  space  between  the 
branches.  The  above  examples  will  be  sufficient 
to  serve  as  a  guide.  Small  specimens,  which  are 
being  planted  to  serve  as  edgings  to  beds  or  for 
carpet  bedding,  must  be  put  out  so  that  the 
leaves  nearly  touch  each  other  in  the  case  of  all 
the  plants.  Shamrock. 


A  LITTLE-KNOWN  GREENHOUSE  PLANT. 

Leucopogon  lanceolatos. — This  graceful  green- 
house plant  was  introduced  into  English  gardens 
about  100 
years  ago, 
but,  like 
many  other 
New  Holland 
plants,  it  is 
now  rarely 
seen  in  culti- 
vation. The 
plant  forms 
an  erect, 
m  u  0  h  - 
branched 
shrub  from 
'2ft.  to  3ft. 
high.  The 
spikes  of 
small  white 
flowers,  which 
resemble 
those  of 
Epacris,  are 
freely  pro- 
duced during 
the  win  ter 
months,  and 
will  last  in  a 
fresh  condi- 
tion for  at 
least  a  month 
or  six  weeks.  Cuttings  root  readily  if  inserted 
during  August  in  sandy  peat,  placing  them  in 
gentle  heat  and  covering  with  a  bell-glass  until 
rooted,  when  they  should  be  potted  into  a  com- 
post consisting  of  two  parts  peat  to  one  of  loam, 
with  a  good  proportion  of  sand  added.  This 
Leucopogon  requires  greenhouse  treatment  the 
greater  part  of  the  year,  but  derives  much  benefit 
if  stood  outside  during  the  summer.         W.  T. 


4.— A  CLUSTER  OF  OFFSETS  THAT 
MAY  BE  DIVIHED  BY  PRESSING 
THEM  ASl'NDER.  EACH  OFF- 
SET WILL  HAVE  SEVERAL 
ROOTS  ADHERIHr,. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Work  will  now  be  very  brisk  in  the  town 
garden.  The  showers  which  have  fallen  lately 
have  freshened  up  spring-flowering  plants  con- 
siderably, and  the  warm  weather  will  now  induce 
quick  growth.  Where  the  soil  is  of  a  clayey 
nature,  vegetation  will  be  somewhat  behind  that 
more  favourably  located,  but  during  a  very  dry 
summer  the  floral  display  in  the  clayey  garden 
may  surpass  that  of  the  lighter  soil ;  so  we  see 
there  are  compensations  in  every  case,  and  there 
are  difficulties  to  overcome  in  every  instance,  too. 
The  true  gardener — the  enthusiast — takes  a  great 
delight  in  overcoming  all  difficulties,  and  when 
he  conquers  he  only  rests  for  a  time— a  very 
short  time  indeed — before  he  tackles  a  fresh 
branch  of  gardening,  being  equally  determined 
to  succeed  in  it  also.  In  all  soils,  and  especially 
in  clayey  ones,  much  damage  may  be  done  to 
young  plants  by 

Slugs. — I  know  that  many  persons  think 
that  a  severe  winter  period  is  very  destructive 
to  insect  pests.  It  is  in  certain  cases,  but  in 
others,  especially  in  exposed  positions,  less  harm 
is  done  to  insects  by  frosts  than  in  more  favour- 
able seasons  when  frosts  are  not  severe  and  less 
frequent.  In  very  cold,  frosty  weather  these 
pests  go  deeper  into  the  soil  and  remain  there 
until  warmer  weather  comes,  so  they  are  com- 
paratively safe.  In  less  severe  weather  they 
come  to  the  surface  and  very  often  get  nipped  by 
the  frost  just  hard  enough  to  kill  them.  I  have 
often  seen  bees  fly  away  from  their  hives  in  sunny 
weather  and  get  caught  in  a  storm,  then  fall 
to  the  ground  and  never  rise  on  wings  again. 
Beware,  ye  town  gardeners,  of  a  raid  by  slugs ; 
watch  for  them,  be  prepared  and  so  save  the 
young  crops  from  destruction.  Tender  annuals. 
Lettuces,  the  young  shoots  of  Delphiniums  and 
other  plants  soon  fall  a  prey  to  slugs  if  not 
protected.  Sharp  coal-ashes  are  very  useful,  as 
slugs  cannot  crawl  over  them  freely,  and  when 
they  are  scattered  around  the  crowns  of 
herbaceous  plants  and  near  the  stems  and 
leaves  of  tender  annuals,  they  prove  a  good 
safeguard.  Dry  lime  carefully  sprinkled  on  the 
soil  near  the  plants,  and  also  soot,  the  latter 
separately,  not  with  the  lime,  prevent  the  attacks 
of  slugs.  Kilogrub,  Vaporite  and  Alphol,  used 
according  to  the  instructions  given  with  them, 
are  good  remedies ;  thus  the  town  gardener  can 
easily  arm  himself  against  the  attacks  of  slugs. 

The  Greenhouse  axd  Conservatory. — 
Climbing  plants  in  both  small  and  large  green- 
houses and  conservatories  must  be  examined  very 
thoroughly  now.  If  dead  branches  and  faded 
leaves  are  left  on  these  roof  and  pillar  plants,  there 
will  be  a  constant  litter  on  the  floor  and  among 
the  occupants  of  the  stages.  Cut  away  all  dead 
shoots  and  branches  that  would  tend  to  cause 
overcrowding,  and  then  vigorously  shake  down 
the  useless  leaves.  A  clear  course  will  thus  be 
obtained  for  the  retying  of  the  remaining  shoots. 
If  brown  scale  and  mealy  bug  are  found  on  the 
plants,  the  cultivator  must  lose  no  time  in 
getting  rid  of  the  pests.  It  is  a  very  wise  thing 
to  do  ;  then  there  will  be  no  risk  of  the  new 
shoots  becoming  infested  with  the  insects. 

Stage  Plants. — Zonal  Pelargoniums,  which 
are  difficult  to  keep  in  good  health  during  the 
depth  of  winter  in  cool  structures  where  moisture 
is  very  prevalent,  are  growing  again  freely.  For 
a  display  next  autumn  the  cultivator  must  make 
preparations  now.  A  batch  of  cuttings  put  in  at 
once,  and  the  resultant  rooted  plants  grown  in 
the  open  air  throughout  the  summer,  will 
prove  a  welcome  addition  to  the  stock  of  green- 
house flowering  plants  next  autumn.  Cinerarias 
must  be  watered  with  care  and  kept  free  from 
green  aphis.  Fumigation  and  vaporising  are 
sure  remedies,  but  both  must  be  done  while  the 
blossoms  and  foliage  are  dry.  Cyclamens  and 
bulbs  which  have  finished  flowering  must  be 
removed  to  a  frame  and  well  eared  for  there  until 
growth  is  finished.  Avon. 


206 


THE     GARDEN. 


[April  24,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


M 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit     Department. 

ELONS. — Plants  which  have  set  their 
iruits  rather  irregularly  should 
receive  immediate  attention,  and 
those  fruits  which  are  too  much  in 
advance  of  the  majority  to  form 
an  even  crop  may  be  cut  off.  If 
the  plants  are  growing  in  pots  or  the  roots  are 
otherwise  restricted,  about  four  fruits  to  each 
will  be  ample,  and  with  the  larger-fruiting 
varieties  two  or  three  will  usually  be  found 
sufficient  ;  but  where  the  plants  are  strong  and 
robust  and  have  an  unrestricted  root- run,  five  or 
six  fruits  may  be  left.  Keep  the  roots  in  a 
healthy  state  by  frequently  top-dressing  with 
good  loam,  which  should  be  placed  over  the 
roots  in  a  warm  state  and  about  1  inch  in  thick- 
ness, and  then  pressed  very  firmly  with  a  brick, 
or  a  block  of  wood  formed  for  the  purpose.  L)o 
not  allow  the  plants  to  sufifer  from  want  of 
moisture  at  the  roots,  and  syringe  the  foliage 
twice  daily  in  bright  weather,  but  in  dull 
weather  be  content  with  sprinkling  the  paths 
and  borders  through  a  rosed  water-can.  Attend 
carefully  to  the  stopping  and  tying  down  of  the 
laterals  of  later  plants,  doing  this  a  little  at  a 
time.  Keep  the  air  a  little  drier  when  in  flower, 
and  carefully  fertilise  the  blooms  when  enough 
are  open  at  one  time  to  form  a  crop. 

Strawberries. — Abundance  of  water  and  liquid 
manure  should  be  afforded  all  plants  which  are 
fast  swelling  their  fruit,  and  use  the  syringe 
freely  in  bright  weather  till  the  berries  begin  to 
change  colour,  when  both  manure  and  syringing 
must  be  withheld.  For  syringing  purposes  let 
the  water  be  very  clean.  As  the  fruits  change 
colour,  air  more  freely  and  keep  the  house  a  little 
more  dry  to  encourage  flavour,  but  do  not  lower 
the  temperature  too  rapidly.  Introduce  more 
plants  to  keep  up  a  constant  supply  of  fruit  till 
the  outside  crops  are  ripe.  The  latest  batches 
may  be  ripened  in  cold  frames  if  such  are  at 
liberty.  Top-dress  with  good  soil  and  be  very 
careful  with  the  syringe  in  dull  weather,  other- 
wise mildew  may  appear. 

Oranyes. — Any  repotting  of  these  to  be  done 
must  be  no  longer  delayed.  Oranges  do  not  like 
the  roots  disturbed,  so  employ  good,  sweet, 
lasting  loam  containing  plenty  of  fibre  aad  a  little 
decayed  manure  and  grit,  and  pot  rather  firmly. 
If  in  tubs,  see  that  the  soil  is  rammed  well 
down  to  the  drainage  between  the  mass  of  roots 
and  the  tub.  Iveep  the  plants  growing  for  a 
time  in  a  sweet,  moist  atmosphere.  Trees 
planted  out  will  greatly  benefit  by  the  removal 
of  a  portion  of  the  top  soil,  replacing  it  with 
fresh.  If  the  roots  have  got  into  a  cold,  sour 
compost  and  the  plants  have  a  sickly  appearance, 
lifting  entirely  and  replanting  after  the  borders 
have  been  thoroughly  put  right  is  the  only 
method  to  adopt.  The  plants  should  then  be 
shaded  and  well  syringed,  and  the  house  kept 
close  for  some  time. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 

Primulas.  — Seeds  may  now  be  sown  for  flower- 
ing early  next  season,  and  another  batch  may  be 
raised  a  little  later.  Sow  the  seed  In  well- 
drained  pots  or  pans,  using  a  mixture  of  sweet 
sandy  soil  and  leaf-mould.  Stand  the  pots  in  a 
temperature  of  55°  and  shade  with  paper  over 
squares  of  glass  till  the  seedlings  appear  above 
the  soil,  when  both  should  be  gradually  removed. 
A  sowing  of  Cinerarias  may  be  made  at  the  same 
time  and  treated  in  the  same  way. 

Begonia  Qloire  de  Lorraine. — Keep  propa- 
gating these  if  enough  plants  have  not  already 
been  struck.  They  should  by  the  end  of  the 
season  grow  into  nice  serviceable  specimens. 


Camellias. — These  will  now  be  past  their 
flowering,  and  may  be  slightly  pruned  to  keep 
them  within  reasonable  bounds.  Any  potting  to 
be  done  must  be  attended  to  at  once,  and  large 
planted-out  bushes  will  be  all  the  better  for  a 
good  top-dressing.  See  that  the  roots  are  well 
supplied  with  water  and  liquid  manure  in  a  weak 
state  at  intervals.  These  plants  must  be  well 
shaded  and  kept  syringed  to  induce  healthy 
flowering  wood.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Vegetable  Department. 
Potatoes. — The  planting  of  maincrop  varieties 
should  be  completed  as  soon  as  possible.  Thirty 
inches  between  the  rows  and  12  inches  from  set 
to  set  is  ample  space,  tor  if  this  is  much  exceeded 
abnormally  large  and  coarse  tubers  would  most 
likely  be  produced.  Each  district,  as  a  rule, 
gives  prominence  to  some  particular  variety, 
according  to  its  suitability  of  soil  and  climate, 
and  taking  the  North  Country  as  a  whole,  Upto- 
Date  probably  holds  the  distinction  of  being  the 
most  popular  and  largely  cultivated  variety  at 
present. 

Peas. — From  now  onwards  maincrop  and  late 
varieties  of  these  should  be  sown  at  fortnightly 
intervals.  If  wanted  for  a  particular  purpose 
or  time,  about  twelve  weeks  between  sowing  and 
development  of  the  produce  must  be  allowed. 
For  exhibition  purposes  large-podded  varieties 
are  most  in  favour,  and  in  this  Carter's  Quite 
Content  undoubtedly  heads  the  list,  though  there 
are  several  others — notably,  Duke  of  Albany  and 
Gladstone — that  are  in  every  way  excellent.  To 
obtain  the  best  results  ample  space  must  be  given 
the  plants,  so  that  light  and  air  may  have  free 
access,  and  to  this  end  dwarf  crops,  such  as 
Potatoes,  Cabbages  or  Cauliflowers,  may  be  grown 
between  the  rows.  At  this  time  thin  sowing  may 
with  safety  be  practised,  and  should  germination 
prove  very  satisfactory,  thinning  of  the  plants 
to  4  inches  apart  should  be  early  carried  out. 
Before  supports  are  placed  to  the  rows  all  weeds 
should  be  removed  and  the  surface  soil  stirred, 
afterwards  drawing  a  ridge  of  the  same  on  either 
side.  Support  of  some  kind  must  be  given  when 
the  plants  are  a  few  inches  in  height,  light  brush- 
wood answering  well  at  first,  while  later  stout 
branches,  properly  trimmed,  or  Pea  trainers  can 
be  applied  as  the  plants  advance. 

Salsify,  Scorzonera,  Chicory  and  Beetroot  may 
now  be  sown  upon  ground  that  has  been  deeply 
worked  but  not  recently  manured.  Turnips  are 
prone  to  form  seed-stems  rather  than  bulbs  in 
hot  weather,  hence  small  sowings  at  short  in- 
tervals upon  a  cool  site  should  be  made.  Snow- 
ball and  Orange  Jelly  are  two  excellent  varieties. 

Flowbe  Garden  and  Borders. 

Sweet  Peas  raised  in  pots  and  properly  hardened 
may  now  be  planted  out,  leaving  the  soil  around 
in  a  basin-likecavity  to  facilitate  watering  later  on. 
Sparrows  are  often  troublesome,  but  by  making 
the  foliage  distasteful  with  soot  or  soft  soap  de- 
coction this  will  keep  them  at  bay. 

Gladioli  started  in  pots  may  also  be  planted  ; 
these  should  be  deeply  inserted  so  that  the  soil 
around  protects  the  foliage  against  wind. 

Hardy  Fruit. 
Fifj  Trees  which  have  been  covered  as  a  pro- 
tection from  frost  may  now  have  the  material 
removed  if  growth  is  visible  ;  but  it  is  prudent 
to  have  mats  or  a  sheet  of  tiffany  at  hand  in  case 
of  severe  frost.  Last  year  the  greatest  harm  to 
the  trees,  resulting  in  the  entire  loss  of  crop, 
occurred  at  the  end  of  April.  Pruning  and  nail- 
ing may  be  carried  out  as  opportunity  ofliers. 
Medium-sized  wood  is  usually  the  most  fruitful, 
hence  much  that  is  weakly  or  unduly  vigorous 
should  be  pruned  away  to  make  room  for  this. 
Afterwards  the  leaders  may  be  secured  to  the 


wall,  leaving  most  of  the  short  spur  growths 
in  their  natural  positions.  Manure  is  seldom 
required  by  young  Fig  trees,  but  those  aged  are 
often  benefited  by  having  a  dressing  of  some 
phosphatic  manure  applied. 

Jambs  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 
Galloway  Hovse,  Garlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
Sower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit 
tree,  shrub.  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


Rhododendron  grande  arobnteum. 
Mr.  W.  A.  Cook,  The  Gardens,  Leonardslee, 
Horsham,  Sussex,  sends  us  a  fine  truss  of  this 
Rhododendron.  He  writes  :  "I  enclose  a  truss  of 
that  splendid  early  flowering  Rhododendron 
grande  argenteum.  It  is  a  most  interesting 
flower,  both  by  day  and  night.  When  the 
flowers  first  open  they  have  a  slight  rose  tint, 
but  after  developing  become  nearly  white  ;  at 
the  base  of  each  are  purple  blotches  and  the 
anthers  are  crimson  tipped.  It  is  a  very  free- 
flowering  species  and  young  plants  frequently 
flower,  though  to  see  it  at  its  beauty  one  must  have 
a  plant  bearing  100  trusses.  It  is  a  charming 
plant  for  a  Rhododendron  house  or  a  cool  con- 
servatory, as  the  foliage  at  all  times  is  extremely 
beautiful,  the  white  under-sides  of  the  leaves 
being  particularly  striking.  Great  care  should 
be  exercised  with  regard  to  watering  ;  the  plants 
take  quantities  of  water  during  the  growing 
season,  and  if  allowed  to  suffer  the  tips  of  the 
leaves  soon  turn  brown  and  greatly  disfigure  the 
plant.  Most  species  very  much  resent  bad 
treatment,  and  sooner  or  later  the  plant  dwindles 
away  to  a  mere  stick.  A  suitable  soil  is  one- 
third  peat,  loam  and  leaf- soil,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  cow-manure  and  sharp  sand." 

A  New  Spring-flowering  Tree. 
Messrs.  R.  Veitch  and  Son  of  Exeter  send  us 
a  most  interesting  plant,  the  double  form  of 
Prunus  Pissardi  called  Moseri  fl.-pl. ,  and  we 
feel  sure  this  will  become  a  very  popular  tree,  as 
the  type  is  suitable  for  either  the  suburbs  of 
big  towns  or  the  country.  Messrs.  Veitch  also 
send  the  single  white  Camellia  Devonia,  which 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  things  we  have  seen 
in  the  way  of  Camellias  for  yearsi 


A  New  Violet — Devonia. 
Mr.  J.  Heath  sends  from  The  Nurseries, 
Kingskerswell,  Devon,  flowers  of  a  new  Violet 
named  Devonia,  which  we  hope  to  show  in  a 
coloured  plate.  The  flower  is  deep  blue,  large, 
without  any  suggestion  of  coarseness,  and 
strongly  scented.     It  is  a  variety  of  great  merit. 


Psoralea  pinnata  from  Ascot. 
We  have  received  from  Mr.  Chaplin,  gardener 
to  Mrs.  Bulteel,  Book  Lodge,  Cheapside,  Ascot, 
some  sprays  of  Psoralea  pinnata.  It  is  such  a 
delightful  flowering  plant  that  one  cannot  help 
feeling  we  are  decided  losers  by  the  comparative 
neglect  into  which  hard- wooded  plants  in  general 
have  now  fallen.  In  our  forefathers'  days  this 
Psoralea  was  generally  grown  ;  now,  in  common 
with  the  Leschenaultias,  Hoveas,  Pultenaeas,  &c., 
it  is  almost  unknown.  Psoralea  pinnata  is  an 
evergreen   shrub,    native   of   South   Africa,   and 


I 


April  24,  1909.] 


THE     GAEDEN 


•2(17 


1;herefore  reciuires  ordinary  greenhouse  treat- 
ment. The  leaves,  which  are  made  up  of  several 
pairs  of  very  narrow  leaflets,  are  of  a  dark  green 
tint,  while  from  the  axils  thereof  towards  the 
points  of  the  shoots  the  flowers  are  produced. 
They  are  Pea-shaped,  and  in  colour  a  very 
pleasing  shade  of  purplish  blue,  marked  with 
white  in  the  centre.  This  Paoralea  must  have 
been  one  of  the  earliest  plants  received  from 
Cape  Colony,  for  the  "Dictionary  of  Gardening " 
gives  the  date  of  its  introduction  as  1690,  that 
is,  two  years  before  Agapanthus  umbellatus 
arrived  here. 


Daffodils  from  Ireland. 
Mr.  W.  Baylor  Hartland  sends  us  from  his 
Ard-Cairn  Nurseries  a  few  flowers  of  the  beauti- 
ful large  trumpet  Daflbdil  named  after  himself. 
He  writes  on  the  6th  inst.  as  follows  :  "  I  so 
seldom  come  now  to  London  and,  in  consequence, 
send  you  herewith  a  few  blooms  of  my  Daiibdil,  the 
same  being  a  big  bioolor  named  by  the  late  F.  W. 
Burbidge  Wm.  Baylor  Hartland,  as  he  thought 
it  good  enough  for  the  name.  I  have  now  in 
flower  two  magnificent  Daffodils,  viz..  Bedouin 
and  The  Czarina,  which  are  splendid  indeed ; 
also  Lord  Roberts,  Homespun  and  others." 


Pansibs  and  Violas  from  Doeeijs's. 
Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.  of  Rothesay  send  us 
some  magnificent  flowers  of  their  famous  Pansies 
and  Violas,  these  being  of  very  large  size,  rich 
and  well-defined  colours  and  delightfully  fragrant. 
Among  the  Pansies,  those  that  specially  appealed 
to  us  were  Miss  Neil,  with  large  velvety  blotches, 
edged  creamy  white  ;  Mrs.  Butler,  large  violet 
blotches,  edged  rich  cream,  this  being  pencilled 
with  crimson  ;  Mr.  B.  Wellbourne,  a  very  large 
flower  with  large,  brown-black  blotches,  laced 
primrose,  the  upper  petals  being  violet  coloured  ; 
Mrs.  H.  8tuart,  deep  claret  blotches,  edged  pale 
cream,  suffused  pale  rose,  the  upper  petals  creamy 
white  with  rose  markings  ;  and  Mrs.  Carapbell, 
claret  blotches,  edged  with  very  rich  clear  yellow, 
a  very  handsome  flower  indeed.  Of  the  Violas, 
Redbraes  Yellow,  a  pure  rayless  rich  yellow  ; 
Snowflake,  large,  pure  white  rayless  flowers  with 
yellow  eye  ;  W.  P.  A.  Smyth,  pale  sulphur  rayed 
flower  with  very  faint  edging  of  purple  ;  Mrs. 
H.  Pearce,  large,  pure  white  with  yellow  eye  ; 
Wm.  Loekwood,  large,  rich  yellow  rayless  ; 
Maggie  Clunas,  canary  yellow,  slightly  rayed  ; 
Lizzie  Storer,  glossy  black  lower  petals,  each 
tipped  with  lavender,  upper  petals  clear  laven- 
der ;  Mrs.  J.  H.  Rowland,  rosy  mauve ;  and 
George  G.  Murray,  side  and  bottom  petals  black, 
upper  petals  sky  blue,  were  a  few  of  the  best. 

Daffodils  from  Ms.  Peter  Bare,  V.M.H. 

Mr.  Peter  Barr,  V.M.H. ,  sends  us  another 
interesting  eolleetion  of  Daffodils  from  his  Scot- 
tish home.  Among  others  were  Bicolor  of  Tus- 
cany, a  form  of  pseudo- Narcissus ;  and  Alfred  Tait, 
a  charming  little  hybrid  between  N.  cyclamineus 
and  Tazetta,  raised  by  Mr.  Tait  of  Oporto. 
Of  this  Mr.  Barr  remarks  that  it  appears  to  be 
of  good  constitution,  having  flowered  two  years 
in  the  same  spot.  Golden  Spur  was  welcome  with 
its  rich  yellow  blossoms,  as  was  the  dainty  little 
Moaohatus.  King  of  Spain  and  Queen  of  Spain, 
grown  indoors,  were  good,  and  we  were  pleased 
to  renew  our  acquaintance  with  Queen  Anne's 
double  Daffodil. 


BOOKS. 

Pponunciation  of  Plant  Names,* 

A  little  book  that  will  be  helpful  to  those  who 
have  more  than  a  superficial  interest  in  gardening. 
As  mentioned  in  the  preface,  ' '  The  list  makes  no 
pretence  to  be  exhaustive.  .    .    .    No  pretence  is 

♦"Pronunciation  of  Plant  Names."  he  Gardener's 
Chi-onicle,  Limited,  41,  Wellington  Street,  Covent  Garden, 
Vf.C. 


made  of  assuming  the  rvte  of  the  reformer,  but  the 
list  is  the  outcome  of  an  endeavour  to  indicate 
the  pronunciation  most  nearly  in  accordance  with 
the  best  usage,  or  the  higher  authority."  We 
welcome  this  book.  The  price  is  1 3.  net,  or  Is.  2d. 
post  free. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAe  Editor  intende 
to  make  The  Gardeh  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  unth  that  object  vnll  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  colunvn.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clea/rly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editoe  of  IHE 
aARSEK,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publishes. 
Th£  na/me  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
he  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Manure  for  Daffodils  and  Tulips 

(Ascot). — The  point  to  remember  in  applying 
manure  of  any  kind  to  both  Daffodils  and  Tulips 
is  that  they  do  not  like  nitrogen,  and  that,  as  a 
rule,  a  good  phosphoric  manure  suits  them. 
Whatever  kind  is  used,  it  is  best  when  well 
mixed  with  the  soil  a  short  time  before  the  bulbs 
are  planted.  Now  the  roots  are  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  top  of  the  ground  and  it  is 
doubtful  how  much  will  reach  them.  It  might 
be  well  to  try  watering  two  or  tliree  times  at 
intervals  of  ten  days  with  a  very  weak  solution 
of  superphosphate  of  lime,  say,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  to  a  gallon  ;  or,  if  procurable,  we  believe 
a  thin  dusting  of  dried  blood  might  have  good 
results. 

StopDlng'  and  timing'  Chpysanthemums 

(/".  W.  H'.).— Your  selection  eml>races  Chrysanthemums  of 
Japanese  incurved  aud  .Japanese  Anemone  types,  and  you 
cannot  do  better  than  treat  them  as  follows :  Mrs. 
Coombes,  Beatrice  May,  Miss  Alice  Byron,  Pha'bua, 
President  Loubet  and  Sir  Walter  Kalefgh  (Anemone)  at 
once,  second  crown  ;  .Souv.  de  Petite  Amie,  natural  break, 
second  crown  ;  and  Major  Bonaffon  (incurved)  at  once  and 
again  at  the  end  of  June,  second  crown.  We  do  not  know 
the  two  others  you  mention. 

Pond  for  AVatep  Lilies  {E.  HinrkliO.—Vfe  do 
not  know  of  anything  of  a  green  or  brown  colour  that 
would  be  suitable,  but  you  might  modify  the  grey  of  the 
cement  by  mixing  a  wash  of  blue  clay,  applyini;-  this  to 
the  sides.  It  is  quite  possible,  however,  that  the  sediment 
would  soon  obscure  the  colour  referred  to.  The  artistic 
character  or  appearance  of  these  receptacles  depends 
entirely  on  the  method  of  construction,  and  the  swimming- 
bath  effect  need  not  have  existed  unless  the  pond  is  in  a 
very  restricted  area.  The  sides  aud  margin  should  always 
present  a  serpentine  outline,  and  by  arranging  the  tank  in 
a  slight  depression  and  thereby  assuming  the  natural 
declivity  of  a  pond,  it  is  possible  to  turf  down  to  and 
occasionally  over  the  margin,  and,  while  hiding  the  Latter 
from  view,  render  it  more  natural  and  pleasant  to  look 
upon. 

Flowering  plants  fop  Delphinium  bed 
(E.  r.), — There  are  several  subjects  you  could  place 
among  the  Delphinium  clumps  when  these  latter  have 
been  cut  back  after  their  first  blossoming.  Various  Lilies 
are  now  procurable  in  pots,  and  they  would  look  nice. 
You  could  also  bring  along  some  pots  of  Sweet  Peas,  but 
we  think  China  or  Polyantha  Roses  would  have  a  very 
beautiful  effect.  These  are  procurable  in  6-inch  pots. 
They  are  constantly  in  bloom,  and  if  carefully  plunged  in 
the  soil  up  to  the  rim  of  the  pot  would  do  well.  They 
would  need  careful  watching  to  see  they  did  not  suffer  for 
the  want  of  water,  and  should  be  given  a  little  liquid 
manure  once  a  week.  Dark-leaved  Cannas  would  harmo- 
nise well  with  the  second  flowering  of  the  Delphiniums, 
and  they  can  always  be  kept  in  bounds,  besides  wliich,  if 
they  are  plantetl  in  their  pots,  over-luxuriance  would  be 
checked:  Ivy-leaf  Geraniums  trained  in  pyramidal  form 
or  Fuchsias  and  yellow  and  white  Marguerites. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Roses  neap  London  [h:.  A.  Fordham). 

We  have  much  pleasure  in  assisting  you  as  far 
as  we  are  able.  Your  arrangement  is  excellent. 
One  cannot  have  the  beds  too  simple,  and  it  is 


always  advisable  to  avoid  having  beds  too  large 
and  thus  prevent  the  necessity  of  treading  on 
the  soil.  We  think  you  would  have  done  well 
to  have  kept  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  in  a  bed  to 
themselves.  No.  13,  Magna  Charta,  will  grow 
rather  strongly  and  would  have  been  better  in 
the  place  of  No.  11.  No.  14  should  have  been  in 
the  place  of  No.  12.  No.  lo  we  should  not  have 
at  all,  as  it  is  only  an  exhibitor's  Rose  and  is  very 
difficult  to  grow.  You  have  placed  two  yellows 
close  together,  Nos.  32  and  33.  These  should 
have  had  a  crimson  between  them  so  as  to  have 
enhanced  their  beauty.  We  fear  you  will  find 
No.  31)  rather  tender.  With  these  exceptions  we 
consider  your  eolleetion  and  arrangement  very 
good;  but  you  are  rather  badly  handicapped 
living  so  near  London.  You  must  take  care  to 
keep  the  foliage  well  syringed  three  or  four  times 
a  week  if  possible.  As  to  manuring,  it  would  be 
an  excellent  plan,  seeing  your  soil  is  light  and 
subsoil  gravel,  if  you  could  afford  to  give  all  the 
beds  a  good  dressing  of  cow-manure,  which  some 
dairyman  would  probably  supply  you  with. 
Cover  the  beds  entirely  and  then  put  some  soil 
all  over  it  to  hide  the  objectionable  appearance. 
As  a  further  stimulant  you  could  water  the  plants 
with  guano  water,  commencing  at  the  end  of  May, 
until  they  begin  to  bloom,  about  1  oz.  to  one  gallon 
of  water,  and  give  each  plant  about  two  quarts 
once  a  week.  The  bed  planted  this  spring  had 
not  better  receive  any  guano.  We  advise  you  to 
go  over  the  beds  and  press  your  foot  against  each 
plant,  so  as  to  make  the  soil  firm  about  their 
roots.     Do  this  before  giving  manure. 

Red  and  white  Roses   fop  St.  Geop^re's 

Day  (Culniul  C.  G.  J/.).— For  red  varieties  to  bloom  by 
this  date  you  could  have  either  Liberty,  Richmond  or 
Captain  Hayward,  and  for  white  Frau  Karl  Druschki, 
Xiphetos  or  L' Innocence.  Y'ou  could  possibly  procure  pot 
plants  in  bud  a  week  or  so  beft  pre  the  date  from  our  best 
Rose-growers. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Daphne  indica  [Rul  iJo^f).— While  we 

sympathise  with  you  in  your  desire  to  obtain  so 
fragrant  and  beautiful  a  subject  in  the  open,  we 
are  afraid  that  your  chances  of  successfully 
grafting  it  there  are  not  great,  and  particularly 
so  if  the  stock  plant  is  not  established  in  its 
position.  It  would  have  been  better  if  the  stock 
plant  had  been  moved  to  its  permanent  quarters 
early  last  autumn,  as  the  grafting  could  now 
have  been  done  with  less  risk.  In  the  circum- 
stances you  had  batter  try  two  plants,  one  each 
way,  and  if  the  bush  is  large  enough,  put  several 
grafts  on  each  plant.  The  species  you  refer  to 
(D.  Laureola)  makes  a  capital  stock  and  should 
be  cut  down  rather  low,  leaving  several 
branches  of  mature  growth  about  the  size  of  a 
cedar-wood  pencil.  These  branches  should  be 
cut  off  horizontally,  leaving  a  spur  to  each  of 
2  inches  in  length  for  grafting.  The  form  of 
graft  known  as  splice  will  be  the  best,  the 
splice  consisting  of  a  cut  in  a  slanting  upward 
direction  on  the  stock,  and  a  corresponding  one 
in  an  opposite  or  downward  direction  on  the 
scion,  so  that  the  parts  fit  closely  together,  the 
bark  meeting  on  the  one  side  if  not  on  both. 
Clean  cuts  are  desirable,  and  you  might  first 
practise  on  other  useless  material  with  advantage. 
Firm  wood  and  such  as  is  not  in  active  growth 
should  be  used  as  scions  or  grafts,  and  the  parts 
must  be  bound  together  with  raffia  without 
delay.  Finally,  tempered  clay  mingled  with 
light  stable  manure,  free  of  straw,  should  be 
plastered  round  each  graft  to  exclude  air  and 
moisture.  If  success  attends  your  efforts,  it  will 
be  a  year  or  two  before  your  plant  is  large 
enough  to  make  a  display,  and  the  plants  should 
certainly  be  protected  in  winter.  These  Daphnes 
are  usually  grafted  during  the  winter  season 
under  glass  in  a  temperature  of  about  45",  small 
seedling  plants  of  D.  Laureola  or  D.  Mezereum, 
well  established  in  pots,  being  employed  as  a 
stock.  Cuttings  are  very  difficult  to  root,  and 
may  remain  for  months  apparently  alive  and  then 
perish  ;  but  where  large  plants  exist,  layering  or 


'208 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[April  24,  1909. 


pegging  down  of  the  branches  is  usually  attended 
by  Buocessful  results.  If  you  have  no  experience 
iu  the  matter  of  grafting,  your  better  plan  would 
be  to  purchase  a  good  plant  and  bed  it  out,  and 
if  1).  indica  does  not  prove  hardy  you  sliould  try 
its  much  hardier  counterpart,  D.  japonica,  which 
is  quite  reliable  in  this  respect. 

Name  and  tpeatment  of  shrub  (I.  F.  Sniiih). 
The  specimen  you  send  is  Ceauothiis  rlgidus.  You  can 
phint  ib  aKuinst  tt  wat)  with  an  east  aspect  in  Somerset 
and  look  for  it  to  form  a  ttoe  specimen.  It  thrives  in  liKht. 
loamy  soil  better  than  in  that  of  a  heavy  eharaeter.  It 
ought  to  thrive  excellently  in  your  neighboui-hood,  though 
it  is  a  rather  tender  plant.  In  more  northern  counties 
the  plan  is  adopted  of  insertiufi  a  few  cuttings  each 
nutunin  and  keeping  them  in  a  frame  or  cold  house 
throughout  the  wintei-,  so  that  in  tlie  event  of  a  plant  being 
killed  by  severe  frost  tiie  stock  is  not  entirely  lost.  C. 
rl'..ddus  is  one  of  the  most  hi-antiful  species  of  the  family. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 
Culture  of  Poinsettias  (A.  May).— 

Poinsettias  should,  when  the  bracts  have  faded, 
be  placed  in  the  greenhouse  and  kept  dry,  this 
being  termed  giving  them  a  rest.  Then  early  in 
May  they  should  be  brought  out,  the  soft  parts 
of  the  tops  of  the  shoots  cut  off,  and  the  plants 
placed  in  the  temperature  of  an  intermediate 
house,  water  being  given  and  the  plants  freely 
syringed.  This  will  lead  to  numerous  young 
shoots  being  pushed  forth,  and  when  these  are 
nearly  .J  inches  long  they  are  readj-  to  be  taken 
as  cuttings.  The  cutting  may  be  formed  of  an 
entire  shoot  with  its  swollen  base  just  where  it 
starts  from  the  old  wood,  as  from  this  spot  roots 
are  freely  produced.  Each  cutting  should  be 
inserted  in  a  small  pot,  which  must  Tbe  clean  and 
well  drained.  A  sandy  soil  is  very  effective  as 
a  rooting  medium.  The  cuttings  must  be  put 
in  a  close  propagating  ease  in  a  warm  structure, 
where  if  care  is  taken  not  to  over-water  they  will 
soon  root.  As  soon  as  rooted  the  cuttings  must 
be  exposed  to  light  and  air.  In  a  short  time  they 
will  be  ready  for  a  shift  into  pots  5  inches  in 
diameter.  A  very  suitable  soil  for  Poinsettias 
consists  of  good  fibrous  loam  lightened  by  a  mix- 
ture of  leaf  mould,  dried  cow-manure  and  sand. 
When  potted  the  plants  may  be  placed  in  a  frame, 
and  as  soon  as  they  become  established  should  be 
inured  to  plenty  of  light  and  air  in  order  to 
promote  sturdy  growth.  When  the  pots  are 
well  filled  with  roots,  weak  liquid  manure  occa- 
sionally is  very  helpful.  Though  Poinsettias 
may  be  kept  in  a  frame  during  the  sunnner,  they 
must  not  be  allowed  to  remain  therein  too  late  in 
the  autumn,  otherwise  many  of  the  bottom  leaves 
are  apt  to  turn  yellow  and  drop.  Early  in  Sep- 
tember they  should,  if  possible,  be  placed  near 
the  glass  in  a  house  where  an  average  temperature 
of  (10"  or  thereabouts  can  be  maintained.  As  soon 
as  the  bracts  are  seen  they  will  be  increased  in 
size  if  a  little  additional  heat  is  given.  When 
developed  they  keep  better  in  a  cooler  and  drier 
atmosphere. 

Paint  fop  hot-nratep  pipes  (Mm.  ,J.  ;•'.).— i  he 
l)aint  we  use  for  hot-water  pipes,  which  always  proves 
satisfactory,  is  made  of  boiled  linseed  oil  ami  lamp-black 
into  which  just  a  little  terebine  is  put.  -  . 

Cineraria  leaves  curling:  ('"'•««  J.  U.  r.).— No 
doubt  your  Cinerarias  have  been  kept  too  warm,  and,  as 
the  leaves  are  in  consequence  lacking  in  substance,  they 
curl  up  now  that  the  increased  heat  of  the  sun  imparts  an 
additional  strain  upon  them. 


KITCHEN    GAKDEN. 
Raisingr     Cucumbers     and 

Marrows  {Novice). — Frames  so  small  as 
'1\  feet  square  are  large  enough  to  raise  Cucumber 
and  Marrow  plants  iu,  but  not  to  grow  them  in. 
Cucumbers  need  most  warmth.  If  you  make  up 
a  manure-bed  you  should  shake  out  from  the 
manure  (which  must  be  that  of  horses)  the  largest 
straw,  then  well  damp  what  remains  and  turn  it 
into  a  round  heap.  I^et  it  lie  to  become  partially 
warm,  then  turn  and  mix  it  again,  also  damping 
it  if  at  all  dry.  Turn  it  again  a  third  time,  and 
after  a  few  days  make  it  up  into  a  solid  bed  in  a 
warm  position,  and  place  on  it  your  two  frames 


side  by  side  if  your  manure  will  make  the  bed 
large  enough  ;  if  not.  be  content  with  one  frame. 
Put  into  it  4  inches  of  good  soil.  Wait  a  few 
days  until  the  strong  heat  has  slightly  declined  ; 
then  sow  six  Cucumber  seeds  in  a  ."i-inch  pot,  or 
the  same  number  in  more  pots,  also  the  same  of 
Marrow  seeds  ;  gently  water  and  stand  in  the 
frame.  Sow  seed  of  some  Tomato  more  thickly 
in  pots  at  the  same  time.  With  care  and 
avoiding  damp  you  should  soon  have  plenty  of 
plants.  ^  ou  should  in  the  meantime  collect 
more  manure,  and  after  treating  this  as  advised 
for  the  other,  make  up  in  a  sunny  position  a 
larger  and  very  solid  bed,  and  have  a  frame  6  feet 
by  4  feet  put  on  that  in  which  to  grow,  say, 
two  of  your  Cmumber  plants,  as  these  would 
soon  fill  it.  The  Marrow  plants  might  be  put  out 
for  a  time  in  the  small  frame  on  the  first  bed,  and 
later  this  can  be  removed,  letting  the  plants  run 
free.  You  will  find  Winter  Beauty  or  Sunrise 
good  Tomatoes.  Do  not  put  your  hot-beds  near 
your  house- wall,  but  leave  that  free  for  planting 
your  Tomato  plants  against  it.  Do  that  at  the 
end  of  May,  when  the  plants  are  12  inches  in 
height,  and  keep  oil  side  shoots  from  the  main 
stems  hard  pinched  out. 

Tomato    plants    diseased    (F.    J. 

Collier). — The  Tomato  plants  arrived  packed  in 
dry  cotton-wool,  the  worst  kind  of  packing 
material  that  can  be  used,  increasing  the  difficulty 
of  examining  the  plants  to  a  very  great  extent. 
No  fungus  or  insect  pest  is  apparent  on  the 
plants,  and  it  would  rather  appear,  so  far  as  can 
bo  seen,  that  they  have  been  exposed  to  a  sudden 
change  of  temperature  or  a  supply  of  fertiliser 
greater  than  they  can  put  up  with.  If  the 
trouble  spreads,  please  send  some  further  ex- 
amples packed  in  some  other  manner,  preferably 
in  a  tin  box. 

Mushroom  spawn  in  meadow <.CIiloi).—H,  is 
not  always  that  success  attends  the  planting  of  Mushroom 
spawu  in  a  meadow.  The  character  and  <iuality  of  the 
land  have  nuich  to  do  with  the  success  or  failure  of  the 
operation.  If  the  soil  underlying  the  turf  is  thin  and 
poor,  and  the  turf  quickly  burns  in  summer,  it  is  useless 
Co  make  the  attempt,  or  if  the  land  is  inclined  to  be  wet 
and  cold  the  work  will  prove  equally  futile  ;  but  where  the 
land  is  of  average  tiuulity,  fair  depth  and  well  drained, 
then  the  work  may  be  undertaken  with  every  prospect  of 
success.  Krom  the  mldcile  of  April  until  the  middle  of 
May  is  a  good  time  to  insert  the  spawn.  The  llrst  thiuf; 
to  do  is  to  prepare  fresh  horse  maimre  (from  horses  fed  on 
corn)  with  halt  its  hulk  of  the  short  littery  straw  which  is 
usually  collected  with  the  manure.  This  should  he  taken 
out  of  the  stables  every  inorningand  laid  out  on  the  floor  of 
an  open  shed  (or  some  otiier  place  where  it  can  be  protected 
from  rain)  4  incites  deep,  the  object  being  to  dry  the 
manure  by  the  agency  of  sun  and  wind,  and  this  is  etfeotcd, 
at  this  drying  time  of  the  year,  in  from  seven  to  ten  days 
by  turning  the  manure  over  every  other  day.  At  the  end 
ot  ten  days  it  will  be  ready  for  throwini;  up  into  a  heap, 
pressing  it  down  flrnily.  At  the  end  of  seven  days  the 
manure  will  be  heating  violently,  when  the  heap  should  l>e 
opened  and  spread  out  for  the  rank  steam  to  escape. 
After  it  has  had  time  to  cool  (a  couple  of  hours)  the 
manure  should  again  be  placed  in  a  heap  for  a  further 
seven  days,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  placing  in  the  ground. 
The  land  shoulcl  be  prepared  in  the  following  way  for 
receiving  the  spawn  :  Oig  a  hole  in  the  turf  \  foot  deep  and 
1  foot  square  (tlrst  cutting  the  turf  :i  inches  deep  and  pre- 
serving it  intact  for  relaying).  Fill  this  hole  to  within 
1  inches  of  the  surface  with  the  prepared  manure, 
rannning  it  dowu  hard.  Plant  the  spawn  in  this  maimre, 
one  piece  (the  size  of  a  hen's  egg)  in  the  middle  and  one  at 
each  corner,  making  live  pieces  in  all.  The  top  part  of  the 
spawn  when  inserted  should  bo  level  with  the  surface  of 
the  manure.  Place  I  inch  of  the  soil  taken  out  of  the  hole 
on  the  top  of  the  manure  and  spawu,  pressing  it  down 
hard,  and  on  the  top  of  this  place  the  turf,  ramming  it 
hard.  Oover  the  turf  over  wltli  soil  a  (luarter  of  an  inch 
deep  to  prevent  the  sun  drying  it  before  it  has  had  ttnie  to 
start  growing.  In  the  ordinary  course  of  things  tlie  spawn 
will  first  run  into  the  manure,  and  afterwards  permeate 
the  soil  for  some  distance  round  the  hole  in  wliich  it  has 
been  placed,  and  if  all  has  gone  on  well.  Mushrooms 
should  be  looketi  for  from  the  end  of  August  to  the  middle 
of  itctober.  Sometimes  they  do  not  appear  before  the 
second  year,  much  depending  on  weather  conditions.  We 
should  try  the  experiment  on  a  small  scale  first ;  should  it 
turn  out  a  success,  you  would  have  ciintldence  in  extending 
the  planting.  U  is  of  great  importance  to  have  the  best 
spawn,  and  it  should  Dot  be  more  than  one  year  old. 


even  dissolve,  owing  to  the  amount  it  takes  up  ;  but  if  it 
is  kept  in  a  very  dry  place  it  will  keep  without  deteriora- 
tion for  any  length  of  time.  Manures  rich  in  nitrogen, 
like  sulphate  of  ammonia  and  nitrate  of  soda,  are  best 
used  for  plants  whii-h  are  grown  for  their  leaves,  such  as 
Cabbages  :  the  former  is  less  rapid  iu  its  action  than  the 
latter,  which  should  only  he  applied  when  rapid  growth 
is  desired.  The  muriate  of  potash  may  he  used  for 
Potatoes  and  Cabbages,  but  much  depends  on  the  soil  and 
other  conditions,  and  trustworthy  advice  cannot  be  given 
without  a  knowledge  of  these. 

Names  of  plants.- -Vi»  E.  J.  .v.— Saxifraga 
oppositifolia.  The  book  you  require  is  "  i-'Iore  colorlee 
de  poche  des  plantes  alpines,"  price  6.6Ufr.     Correvon, 

Geneve. Wiit.  AUum.~l,   Aspidium    aculeatum    fsus- 

simense  :  2,  Pteris  serrulata  ;  3,  Scolopendrium  vulyare 
crispum  ;  4,  Aspidium  angulare  ;  5,  Pteris  tremula  :  6, 
Pelliea  rotundifolia ;  7,  Pteris  serrulata  cristata ;  S, 
Aspidium  falcatum  :  '.).  Fatsia  japonica  ;  10,  .\splenium 
bulbiferum.—  -Hn/.— Chionodoxa  Luiillie. 


SOCIETIES. 


i 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Infopmation  about  manupes  ((r.  //.  N.).~ 
Neither  sulphate  of  animuiiia  nor  muriate  of  potash  la 
likely  to  deteriorate  by  keeping  if  kept  dry.  Nitrate  of 
soda  very  rapidly  abaorlo  moisture  from  the  air  aud  may 


BOURNEMOl  TH    GARDENERS'    SOCIETV, 

This  prosperous  society  continues  to  do  a  great  deal  of 
f;c)od  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood,  and  its  members 
frequently  have  the  advantage  and  pleasure  of  listening 
to  n'»ted  lecturers  on  various  subjects  connected  with 
horticulture.  Mr.  F.  Lever  of  Bouvueraouth  read  a  very 
interesting  paper  on  the  "Cultivation  of  the  Cyclamen" 
before  a  large  attendance  of  members  on  the  6th  inst. 
Mr.  G.  Garner,  Delamere  Lodge,  Bournemouth,  presided, 
and,  after  the  usual  preliminary  business  of  the  meeting 
had  been  transacted,  introduced  the  lecturer,  who  dealt 
in  a  i-onciae  and  intelligent  way  with  his  subject.  Mr, 
Lever  laid  stress  upon  the  importance  of  amateurs  and 
others  wiio  could  not  command  a  temperature  in  any  of 
their  houses  of  70-^  sowing  the  seeds  about  the  nioutli  of 
September ;  but  where  a  temperature  of  70'^  and  over  could 
be  maintained,  he  advocated  the  sowing  of  the  seeds  in 
November.  I'he  resultant  plants  must  be  expected  to 
tlower  the  following  spring  twelve  months.  For  exhibiting 
at  November  shows  the  lecturer  advised  intending 
exhibitors  to  rely  upon  older  corms,  as  the  one  year  old 
specimens  wore  not  strong  enough  to  bear  the  requisite 
number  and  substance  of  flowers  to  win  in  keen 
competition.  The  seeds,  Mr.  Lever  said,  must  be 
sown  about  I  inch  apart  in  pans  filled  with  equal 
parts  of  leaf-soil  and  loam,  and  not  be  covered  very 
deeply  ;  in  fact,  he  advised  simply  pressing  the  seeds 
into  the  surface  soil  with  a  small,  blunt-ended 
stick  and  then  giving  a  good  watering  through  a  tine- 
rosed  watering-can,  which  he  contended  would  be  quite 
surticient  to  cover  the  seeds  as  deeply  as  was  necessary. 
Another  point  on  which  Mr.  Lever  was  emphatic  was  tiie 
necessity  of  growing  the  phmts  in  a  fairly  high  tempera- 
ture while  they  were  young,  and  afterwards,  when  nearing 
the  llowering  stage,  and  througlumt  the  summer  months, 
giving  them  cooler  treatment.  From  June  to  the  end  of 
.luly  he  advised  cultivators  to  rest  the  plants  by  placing 
the  pots  on  tlieir  sides  on  a  north  Itorder  against  a  wall 
or  fence.  Wlien  restarted  the  plants  ouglit  to  be  top- 
dressed  and  watered  freely,  and  also  fed  freely  while 
growing.  The  lecturer  was  a  great  lieliever  in  liquid 
manure-water  and  the  fre<iuent  syringing  overhead  witli 
clear  soot-water.  Further,  be  advised  the  pulling,  not 
cutting,  of  the  Hower-stems,  allowing  the  leaves  to 
die  away  naturally  and  be  'iieither  cut  nor  pulled.  A 
free  discussion  followed  the  reading  of  the  paper  and 
many  (juestions  were  put  to  Mr.  Lever,  who  gave  very 
satisfactory  i-eplies.  Only  u  few  growers  advocated  the 
drying  olf  of  the  plants  in  hot  positions,  and  all  present 
gave  evidence  of  the  popularity  of  the  Cyclamen. 

ItEAIUNG    GARDENERS'    ASSOCIATION. 

TiiK  usual  fortnightly  meeting  of  this  association  took 
place  in  the  Abbey  Hall  on  Monday,  April  4,  when  the 
chairman,  Mr.  A.  F.  Bailey,  presided  over  a  good  attend- 
ance of  members.  The  lecturer  for  the  evening,  was  Mr. 
U.  C.  Loader  (vice-chairman),  who  presented  a  very  care- 
fully prepared  paper,  *MMir  Association:  Some  of  Its 
Advantages,"  wlii;ju  was  delivered  in  the  forcible  and  con- 
vincing manner  characteristic  of  him,  and  his  remarks 
frequently  evoked  ctmsidcrable  applause.  In  enumerating 
the  advantages  of  such  a  society,  Mr.  Loader  dwelt  con- 
siderably on  the  great  opportunity  for  improvement  the 
younger  members  who  chose  to  grasp  it  had  enjoyed  by 
being  present  at  Mr.  Charles  l-'oster's  classes  for  young 
gardeners,  whicii  had  been  so  successfully  conducted  and 
so  well  attended  during  the  past  six  months.  By  their 
regular  appearance  at  the  fortnightly  meetings  the  older 
members  showed  that  they,  too.  were  desirous  of  refresh- 
ing their  memories  as  well  as  giving  others  the  benefit  of 
their  experience.  Mr.  Loader  spoke  of  the  association  as  a 
huge  partnership,  the  object  of  which  was  the  pn  motion  by 
the  members  to  the  utmost  of  their  ability  of  horiiculture 
in  all  its  branches.  In  the  discussion  following  the  paper 
many  members  bore  eloquent  testimony  to  the  truth  of  the 
lecturei's  remarks,  and  also  to  the  advant8v,e3  they  had 
reaped  as  members  of  t!ie  association.  At  the  conclusion 
of  the  meeting  a  hearty  vote  of  thanks  was  accorded  Mr. 
Loader.  The  society's  i-ertiflcate  of  cultural  merit  was 
awarded  to  Mr.  H.  Goodgtr,  head-gardener  to  Mrs.  H. 
Collins,  Stoneham  Kouse,  Calcot,  for  a  group  of  Sutton's 
Star  Cinerarias.  Jlr.  V.  Townaend.  gardener  to  the  vice- 
president,  exhibited,  not  for  certitlcate,  a  splendid  collec- 
tion of  Narcissi,  which  was  greatly  admired. 


Supplement  to  THE  CARDEN,  April  i^tli,   1909. 


NEW    SEEDLING    CARNATIONS 
PERPETUAL    FLOWERING: 

"Royal    Purple." 

"Lady    Dainty." 

"Black   Chief." 


UiiAsm  >■•-  Ktatiw,  Ltd  ,  l'},iil,is,  I.imduii.  .S.F 


GARDEN. 


^^ 


-^^= 


^^ 


No.  1954. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


iVlAY  1,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Dahlia 209 

Forthcoming  events   . .  210 
Notes  of  the  Weer 
Great   exhibition    of 

Orchids  in  America  210 

Prizes  for  ^Readers      ..  210 

CnRRKSPONDBNOE 

Eoses  for  cutting    . .     211 
Hydrocyanic  acid  gas 
and  mealy  bug  on 

Vines       211 

A     National     Vege- 
table Society..     . .    211 
Sbepfaanotis    flori- 
bunda  in  South 

Africa      211 

The  Auricula  and  Poly- 
anthus exhibition    ..    211 
Trees  and  Shrubs 
The     Almonds     and 

Peaches 212 

Greenhouse 
The  small  greenhouse 
for    pleasure     and 

profit       212 

Stopping  and  timing 
Chrysanthemums       213 
Rose  garden 
Rose  Mar6chal  Kiel      213 
Kose  stocks  and  their 
uses  .,     ..'    .,     ..    213 


Flower  Gauden 
Wat-er     and     bog 

plants      2U 

Crocuses  in  the  grass 

at  Mario w      ..     ..  2U 

Sixifraga  Stribnryi. .  214 
tfROiT  Garden 
The  culture  of  Figs 

in  pots     216 

Fruit  notes        ..     ..  215 
Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        21G 

Two  useful  herbs     . .  216 
Yellow  -  fleshed 

Potatoes 217 

the  town  garden  ..  217 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For    the  South    and 

South  MldlandB    ..  218 
For  the    North    and 

North  Mldlanda  . .  218 

New  plants 218 

Editor's  Table      ..     ..  219 

Books     219 

a.nswebs    to    cobre- 
spondbhts 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  219 

Trees  and  shrubs     . .  220 

Soae  garden      . .  220 

Fruit  garden     . .     . .  220 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Stepbanotia  floribunda  in  Cape  Colony 211 

The  rare  Saxifraga  Stribnryi      212 

A  spray  of  Rose  Mar6chal  Niel 213 

Crocuses  in  the  grass  at  Marlow       214 

A  water  scene  in  a  Lincolnshire  garden 215 

Two  useful  herbs     216,  217 


BDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Every  d&pa/rtment  of  horticultwe  is  repreeented  in  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
reiating  to  matters  upon  which  they  toish  advioe  from 
oompetent  authorities.  With  th/it  object  he  loishes  to  make 
the  " ATiSwers  to  Correspondents"  coCwmn  a  coTispicitous 
feature,  and^  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
unU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  oj  their  aaeistanoe. 
All  communications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Bditob  o/  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welconKS  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
tmt  he  vnll  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  vjiU  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
ore  enclosed,  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
emitriinUifms,  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actiuU  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  vrill  be 
treated  zoitK  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  a/rtistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  Twt  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  PuMication  in  The  Garden 
wiU  alor^  be  recognised  as  accepta/nce. 


OffiAies:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


THE     DAHLIA. 

IT  is  not  too  early,  by  any  means,  for  those 
intending  growers,  amateur  or  other- 
wise, who  may  contemplate  purchasing 
plants,  perhaps  of  novelties,  perchance  of 
old-established  favourites,  to  place  their 
orders.  Indeed,  the  earlier  they  are  sent  out 
the  more  likelihood  of  a  return  in  the  shape  of 
the  strongest  plants.  If  the  plants  are  received 
early  they  should  not  be  planted  outdoors  until 
the  weather  is  suitable.  Dahlias  are  very 
tender,  and  will  remain  so  to  the  end  of  gar- 
dening. It  is  for  this  reason  it  is  unsafe  to 
plant  out  even  in  Southern  districts  until  the 
first  week  in  June,  unless  some  shelter  be  given 
to  the  plants  at  night  for  a  time.  This  may  not 
be  easy  to  furnish,  but  nothing  is  gained  by  too 
early  planting  outdoors  under  any  circumstances. 
When  young  plants  come  to  hand  from  the 
florist,  the  best  course  is  to  turn  them  out  from 
their  small  pots  and  give  them  a  shift  into 
4J-iuoh  or  5-inoh  pots,  using  for  that  purpose  a 
good  soil,  namely,  two  parts  turfy  loam,  the 
third  part  being  old  hot-bed  manure,  leaf-soil 
and  some  sharp  white  sand.  The  potting  should 
be  firm.  The  small  sticks  supporting  the  plants 
when  they  arrive  may  be  removed  and  replaced 
by  rather  stouter  and  taller  ones,  to  which  the 
plants  should  be  loosely  tied.  If  for  the  first 
two  weeks  they  are  placed  in  gentle  warmth, 
good  root-action  will  follow  ;  then  later,  if  con- 
signed to  a  cold  frame  for  a  week  to  harden,  the 
plants  may  for  several  days  before  being  planted 
out  be  stood  outdoors  entirely,  but  sheltered 
from  winds.  Then  by  the  first  week  in  June, 
instead  of  being  puny,  late-rooted  cuttings, 
they  will  be  from  12  inches  to  14  inches  in  height, 
stout  and  sturdy,  and  will,  if  properly  planted, 
speedily  become  established  in  their  new  quarters. 
Dahlias,  if  required  to  grow  strong  and  to  produce 
a  long  succession  of  fine  flowers,  need  a  rich  food, 
and  to  satisfy  their  requirements  the  ground  on 
which  they  are  planted  should  have  previously 
been  trenched  2  feet  in  depth  and  have  worked 
into  it  a  heavy  dressing  of  half  -  decayed  animal 
manure.  Deeply -worked  soil  is  essential  to  enable 
the  roots  to  go  deep  into  the  cool  conditions,  as, 
owing  to  the  huge  leaf  area  the  plants  display,  the 
absorption  of  moisture  from  the  foliage  under  hot 
sunshine  is  great,  and  the  roots  have  need  of 
ample  range  and  food  to  be  able  to  provide 
against  so  great  a  strain. 

Where  Dahlias  are  planted  promiscuously  here 
and  there,  correspondingly  deep,  broad  holes 
should  be  opened  to  enable  the  subsoil  to  be 
well  broken  up  and  liberally  manured.  If 
planted  in  quantity.  Dahlias  should  be  at  least 
4  feet  apart,  to  allow  of  ample  room  to  get  among 
them.      When  the  ground  has  been  prepared  as 


advised,  the  position  of  each  plant  should  be 
marked  by  driving  into  the  place  a  stout,  new 
stake,  which,  while  very  securely  fixed  in  the 
ground,  should  stand  out  of  it  from  4  feet  to 
5  feet,  according  to  the  variety.  The  taller 
stakes  are  more  needed  for  the  Cactus  or  decora- 
tive forms  than  for  the  older  sections.  When  the 
plants  are  put  out  from  the  pots  and  on  the  sunny 
sides  of  the  stakes,  the  small  sticks  hitherto 
supporting  them  should  be  removed,  a  single 
but  rather  loose  tie  with  soft  rafiia  being  sub- 
stituted. Until  the  plants  have  attained  consider- 
able size  special  watering  or  mulching  may  not 
be  essential,  but  when  stout  and  bushy  and 
flower-buds  form  a  soaking  of  liquid  manure 
should  be  given  each  week,  and  later  twice  a 
week.  Still  further,  a  coat  or  mulch  of  animal 
manure  should  be  laid  over  the  roots  for  a 
breadth  of  3  feet,  as  that  will  help  to  conserve 
moisture  in  the  soil.  Dahlias  after  absorbing 
sunshine  are  much  benefited  by  being  gently 
syringed  overhead  when  the  sun  has  passed  off. 

It  is  necessary  to  thin  the  shoots,  especially  if 
fine  flowers  are  desired.  To  that  end  it  is  well  to 
out  out  the  inner  shoots  as  they  form,  if  crowding 
is  likely  to  result.  Still  further,  the  pinching 
out  of  redundant  flower-buds  becomes  necessary 
where,  in  particular,  more  than  one  appears  on 
a  single  stem.  Generally  one-half  of  the  buds 
formed  may  be  pinched  out,  and  then  sufficient 
will  be  left  bo  furnish  a  display  of  flowers.  If 
the  one  centre  stake  is  the  sole  support  to  each 
plant,  the  tying  into  it  requisite  to  support 
the  brittle  outer  branches  is  apt  to  cause  great 
crowding.  It  is  best,  therefore,  to  fix  round 
each  plant  at  least  three  other  stout  stakes  to 
which  the  strong  growths  or  branches  can  be 
seeured,  thus  keeping  the  plants  safe  from  wind 
storms,  and  at  the  same  time  from  undue 
crowding. 

Dahlias  are  divided  into  several  sections.  The 
show  sorts,  which  include  fancies,  have  very  large, 
double,  rotund  flowers  of  many  colours  and 
markings,  selfs,  tipped,  striped  and  flaked.  The 
plants,  now  much  dwarfer  than  were  those  of 
twenty  years  ago,  seldom  exceed  3  feet  in  height. 
They  are,  however,  hardly  suited  for  garden 
decoration,  although  greatly  admired  by  the 
older  race  of  Dahlia  florists. 

Much  prettier  and  charming  in  the  garden  are 
the  Pompons  or  bouquet-flowered  Dahlias.  These 
produce  small  or  miniature  shows  or  fancies  on 
stiff,  erect  stems  and  very  profusely,  being 
placed  well  above  the  foliage.  A  favourite 
section  of  to-day  is  that  known  as 
Cactus  Dahlias. 
Their  flowers  from  improved  stocks  are  quaint  in 
form  and  very  beautiful.  The  petals  are  twisted, 
.convolute  and  pointed,  and  now  are  less  straight 


210 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  1,  1909. 


than  bent  inward  or  incurved.  Many  resemble 
the  claws  of  crabs  or  spiders.  Generally  the 
flowers  are  large,  very  full  and  furnish  truly 
wonderful  colours.  The  plants  are  tall,  usually 
from  5  feet  to  G  feet  in  rich  soil,  and  also  carry 
their  flowers  on  such  weak  or  short  stems  that 
many  are  buried  and  hidden  in  the  leafage.  For 
that  reason  these  Cactus  Dahlias  seldom  make 
effective  garden  plants.  It  is  hoped  that  Dahlia 
raisers  will  henceforth  devote  their  energies  less 
to  the  production  of  mere  exhibition  varieties 
and  more  to  obtaining  those  which  will  make 
beautiful  ga'^den  plante.  There  is  a  sub-section 
of  Cactus  Dahlias  known  as  Pompons,  which  are 
somewhat  small,  though  so  far  not  much  else. 
They,  however,  offer  material  for  considerable 
usefulness  as  garden  flowers. 

A  large  section  generally  recommended  for 
garden  culture  is  called  deoorative.  The  title  is 
an  odd  one,  inasmuch  as  any  Dahlia  that  is  not  in 
some  way  decorative  can  hardly  be  worth  grow- 
ing. The  section,  however,  includes  large  heavy 
double,  semi-Cactus,  semi-double,  eoarse  singles 
and  other  forms,  many  of  them,  while  not  admis- 
sible into  exhibition  sections,  being  remarkably 
floriferous.  The  scarlet  Glare  of  the  Garden  is 
a  case  in  point,  as  it  flowers  profusely,  and  in  that 
respect  indicates  the  description  of  floral  habit 
raisers  should  seek  to  emulate  in  their  seedlings 
and  to  improve  upon.  Single  Dahlias  furnish 
a  singularly  beautiful  section.  They  range  in 
height  from  24  feet  to  4  feet,  are  bushy  and 
luxuriant  in  flower  production  ;  they  are  most 
attractive.  Grown  from  cuttings  or  raised  from 
seeds  the  plants  do  equally  well.  Flowers  come 
and  go  rapidly,  and  render  constant  picking  off 
of  the  seed-vessels  imperative.  Practically,  these 
singles  may  be  treated  as  ordinary  tender 
annuals  raised  from  seed  under  glass  in  the 
spring,  then  later  planted  out  3  feet  or  4  feet 
apart  to  bloom  over  a  long  season.  From  a 
packet  of  seed  a  score  of  diversely  marked  or 
coloured  flowering  varieties  can  be  had.  The 
less-known  tall,  strong  growing  Pa;ony-flowered 
section  gives  excellent  plants  to  put  out  amid 
shrubs,  where  their  large  single  and  semi-double 
flowers  can  be  seen  to  advantage.  Of  varieties 
of  these  sections  the  most  steadfast  are  the  show 
and  fancy  forms,  as  many  of  these  are  so  fine 
as  to  admit  of  but  little  variation  or  improve- 
ment. A  good  twelve  are  Mrs.  Gladstone,  John 
Walker,  R.  T.  Rawlings,  J.  T.  West,  Harry 
Keith,  Colonist,  Florence  Tranter,  Arthur 
Rawlings,  Mrs.  Saunders,  S.  Mortimer,  the 
Rev.  J.  B.  M.  Camm  and  T.  W.  Girdlestone. 

Of  Pompons,  of  which  section  all  are  good, 
the  following  are  excellent :  Nerissa,  Bacchus, 
Darkest  of  All,  Tommy  Keith,  Emily  Hopper, 
Jessica,  Queen  of  Whites,  Ganymede,  Douglas, 
Little  Bugler,  Rosebud  and  Violet.  With  respect 
to  Cactus  Dahlias,  these  change  so  rapidly, 
because  a  flood  of  new  ones  occur  every  year, 
that  it  is  difficult  to  recommend  a  few  that  may 
not  be  out  of  the  running  in  a  season  or  two.  A 
few  present  good  ones  are  J.  B.  Riding,  Rainbow, 
Mrs.  F.  Grinstead,  William  Marshall,  Cockatoo, 
Rev.  A.  Bridge,  F.  M.  Stredwiok,  Mrs.  E. 
Mawley,  White  Lady,  Mrs.  H.  L.  Brousson, 
Harbour  Light  and  Hyacinth.  Of  named  singles, 
and  most  beautiful  both  in  colour  and  in  mark- 
ings, very  charming  are  Mikado,  Victoria,  P0II3' 
Eccles,  Columbine,  Royal  Sovereign,  W.  Parrott, 
Lettie  Seale,  Miss  Roberts,  Tommy,  Formosa  and 
Snowdrop.  Generally,  the  double  Pompons  and 
the  singles  furnish  the  best  cutting  flowers. 


NOTES  OF_THE  WEEK. 

The  Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent 

Institution. — A  performance  of  Mr.  Edward 
Sherwood's  play,  "  In  Cyderland,"  will  be  given 
at  the  Cripplegate  Theatre,  Golden  Lane,  London, 
on  Wednesday,  May  12,  in  aid  of  the  funds  of 
the  institution.  Particulars  may  be  obtained 
from  Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  175,  Victoria  Street, 
London,  E.G. 

Great  exhibition   of  Orchids  in 

America. — The  Massachusetts  Horticultural 
Society,  Boston,  Mass. ,  U.S.A.,  is  arranging  for 
a  magnificent  exhibition  of  Orchids  and  other 
plants  to  be  held  from  May  26  to  May  30  inclu- 
sive next  year.  We  have  just  received  the  pre- 
liminary schedule  of  prizes.  For  the  best  display 
of  Orchid  plants  to  fill  40fl  square  feet  of  space  a 
gold  medal  and  1 ,000  dollars  are  offered  as  first 
prize,  and  in  other  Orchid  classes  the  prizes  are  on 
a  very  big  scale.  The  secretary  is  Mr.  W.  P.  Rich. 
"The   Rose   Annual   for  1909."— 

Bigger  and  better  than  ever  is  the  current  num- 
ber of  "  The  Rose  Annual"  just  to  hand  from 
the  secretary  of  the  National  Rose  Societ}'. 
The  dates  of  the  exhibitions  of  the  principal 
Rose  societies  affiliated  with  the  National 
society  are  given,  and  many  articles  of  con- 
siderable interest  to  rosarians  are  included. 
Among  these  the  most  delightful  are  those  by  the 
President,  the  Rev.  F.  Page-Roberts,  who 
describes  some  of  his  experiences  in  Rose-growing ; 
Mr.  A.  Dickson  on  hybridisation ;  Dr  A.  H. 
Williams  on  wiehuraiana  hybrids ;  Mr.  C.  C. 
Williamson  on  the  scentless  and  scented  Rose ;  and 
the  Editor's  review  of  Roses  and  Rose-growing. 
Mr.  G.  Massee,  V.M.  H. ,  deals  in  his  usual  lucid 
manner  with  Briar  scab,  and  the  publications 
committee  deals  with  some  of  the  newer  Roses. 
In  addition  to  the  mass  of  interesting  and  instruc- 
tive reading  the  book  is  splendidly  illustrated. 
The  price  of  this  Annual  is  Is,,  obtainable  from 
the  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  E.  Mawley,  Rosebank, 
Berkhamsted,  but  notice  is  given  that  the  price 
next  year  will  be  raised  to  28.  6d. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 

MAY. 


THE  BEST  METHODS  OF  GATHER- 
ING, PACKING  AND  TRANSMIT- 
TING FLOWERS,  FRUITS  AND 
VEGETABLES  FOR  EXHIBITION. 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

May  4. — Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers,  Fruit,  &c. ,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m. 
Lecture  at  3  p.m.  by  Mr.  C.  C.  Hurst  on 
"  Mendel's  Law  and  its  Application  to  Horti- 
culture." Royal  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster. 

May  5  and  (5. — National  Auricula  and  Primula 
Society's  (Midland  Section)  Show,  Botanical 
Gardens,  Edgbaston,  Birmingham. 


A  Ftat  Prize  of  FOUR  GUINEAS. 

A   Second  Prize   of  TWO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  Prize  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on  the  above 
subject. 

We  think  that  as  exhibition  time  is  now 
approaching  essays  on  this  subject  should  be  of 
value,  especially  to  those  who  intend  to  exhibit 
at  The  Garden  Show.  Essayists  should  confine 
their  efforts  to  the  items  set  out  above,  and 
should  bear  in  mind  that  exhibits  may  have  to 
be  sent  without  anyone  in  charge  or  may  be 
accompanied  by  the  exhibitor. 

The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  Thb  Gabdbn,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Monday,  May  31.  Both  amateur  and  pro- 
fessional gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Gabden  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 


piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSS.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
deoision  is  final. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(TTie  Editor  ie  itot  responsible  for  the  opinient 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

Potato   Midlothian   Early. —  It  is 

very  probable  that  Mr.  E.  Foxon,  who  refers  to  the 
above-named  kidney  on  page  186,  had  Sir  John 
Llewelyn  sent  him  as  Midlothian  Early.  Really 
the  true  variety  is  a  selection  from  Duke  of  York, 
and  is  not  easily  recognisable.  Were  the  two 
latter  mixed  no  one  could  tell  which  was  which. 
When  first  put  into  commerce  Midlothian  Early 
presented  more  vigorous  features  than  Duke  of 
York,  but  now  they  seem  to  be  identical.  The 
variety  has  quite  yellow  flesh,  distinct  and  easily 
recognised  form,  and  a  somewhat  netted  skin. 
Those  who  like  a  soft-fleshed,  flaky  white  kidney 
can  hardly  find  a  better  first  early  and  a  heavier 
cropper  than  Sir  John  Llewelyn.  Those  pre- 
ferring a  yellow-fleshed  tuber,  having  in  it  more 
body  or  substance  and  better  flavour,  cannot  do 
better  than  grow  Duke  of  York  or  Midlothian 
Early.  Both  crop  heavily  and  make  capital 
market  varieties  for  early  lifting. — Groweb. 

Cotoneaster     angrustifolia.— There 

has  been  so  much  written  about  this  beautiful 
Cotoneaster  since  its  introduction  a  few  years  ago 
that  a  little  further  information  regarding  its 
fruiting  in  our  climate  is  now  desirable.  No  one 
can  question  the  effect  of  a  good  plant  of  this  fine 
shrub  when  wreathed  with  its  bright  berries  ;  but, 
unfortunately,  it  is  not  proving  so  satisfactory  in 
many  places  as  was  anticipated,  and  this  is  due 
to  the  sparseness  of  its  flowers  and  the  con- 
sequent want  of  berries,  which  constitute  the 
great  beauty  of  C.  angustifolia.  My  own  ex- 
perience is  that  it  is  not  a  free  fruiter,  and  I  have 
found  this  corroborated  from  several  parts  of 
Great  Britain,  especially  in  the  North.  Of 
course,  one  has  often  seen  finely  fruited  branches 
from  nurseries  in  the  South,  but  what  one  would 
like  to  know  is  whether  this  free  fruiting  shown, 
by  these  branches  is  common  in  this  country,  and 
also  whether  the  sunny  or  the  shady  parts  of  the 
garden  are  the  best  adapted  for  this  Cotoneaster. 
A  few  notes  from  your  correspondents  who  have 
cultivated  it  would  probably  be  of  service. — 
S.   AiRNOTT,  Dumjries. 

Berberis     congrestiflora     halce- 

Oides. — Several  of  the  Berberises  are  well 
known  as  exceedingly  beautiful  and  useful  garden 
shrubs,  and  are  extensively  planted  accordingly. 
The  above  plant,  however,  though  very  flori- 
ferous, is  rare  in  gardens,  and  very  few  people 
possess  good  specimens.  It  differs  in  character 
from  the  other  sorts,  and  bears  no  very  close 
resemblance  to  any  well-known  species.  The 
habit  of  the  plant  is  rather  loose,  long  stems 
being  formed  with  a  comparatively  small  cumber 
of  side  branches.  Under  good  conditions  it 
grows  to  a  height  of  5  feet  or  6  feet.  The  leaves 
are  1  inch  to  2  inches  long,  almost  round  in  some 
cases,  and  sessile  or  nearly  so.  The  flowers  are 
deep  orange,  and  are  borne  in  dense  round  heads 
from  the  leaf-axils,  the  upper  part  of  each  shoot 
forming  a  long  inflorescence.  It  was  introduced 
by  Messrs.  Veitch  in  1861,  their  collector,  Mr. 
Pearce,  having  sent  it  home  from  Chili.  It  is  a 
rather  bad  shrub  to  propagate,  cuttings  being 
difficult  to  root.  It  can,  however,  be  grafted  on 
stocks  of  B.  vulgaris,  and  does  fairly  well  in 
this  way.  For  gardens  where  out-of-the-way 
shrubs  are  encouraged  this  will  be  found  an 
interesting  plant,  while  during  the  flowering 
period  it  is  of  an  ornamental  character. — W.  D. 

Rose  Jersey  Beauty.— On   page  143^ 

"  A.  P."'  recommends  strongly  this  Rose.  1  know 
it  is  natural  and  proper  that  there  is,  and  should 
be,  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  best  Roses  ; 
but  I  certainly  fail  to  see  any  value  in  Jersey 


May  1,  190y. 


THE     GARDEN 


211 


Beauty  beyond  its  rampant  growth,  which  may 
be  valuable  where  quick  growth  is  required  to 
hide  an  unsightly  object.  The  blooms  are  too 
fleeting  ;  by  the  time  they  are  fully  developed 
the  petals  begin  to  drop.  The  colour  also  is  too 
taint  to  be  decisive  ;  far  better  plant  Electra, 
which  is  most  desirable  in  every  way.  Of  Una 
I  have  nothing  but  praise. — E.  M. 

Roses  top  cutting.—"  P.,"  on  page  143, 
makes  a  good  suggestion  for  those  who  require 
quantities  of  blooms  for  cutting  and  yet  who 
appreciate  a  fine  show  in  the  garden  at  the  same 
time.  I  know  of  severtil  gardens  where  a  plot 
in  the  kitchen  garden  is  set  apart  for  this 
purpose,  and  right  well  does  the  plan  answer.  I 
find  varieties  which,  like  Liberty,  Richmond, 
Mrs.  John  Laing  and  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  are  of 
decisive  colour  are  appreciated  in  bulk.  Those 
who  like  Roses  of  that  soft  rose  colour  such  as  is 
found  in  Magna  Charta,  for  instance,  and  which 
have  a  delicious  perfume  so  unlike  many  of  the 
modern-raised  varieties,  would  do  well  to  plant  a 
batch,  and  instead  of  pruning  them  close  down, 
as  is  the  annual  custom,  allow  them  much  more 
liberty  in  that  respect ;  in  fact,  if  not  pruned 
at  all  there  would  be  more  flowers  to  out, 
and  this  cutting  is  sufficient  pruning.  I  have  a 
number  of  plants  which  I  treat  in  this  way,  and 
right  well  it  answers,  as  anyone  can  test  for 
themselves  if  they  let  the  orthodox  plan  of  annual 
pruning  alone.  I  know  that  the  craving  for 
show  blooms  is  much  to  blame  for  this  annual 
close  cropping  of  the  trees  in  the  spring. — E.  M. 

Hydrocyanic  acid  gas  and  mealy 

bug  on  Vines.— It  would  undoubtedly  be 
of  great  use  to  Vine-growers  could  some  really 
reliable  experiments  be  put  in  hand  at  one  or 
other  of  our  large  establishments,  and  the  results 
published,  with  regard  to  the  efficacy  of  hydro- 
cyanic acid  gas  in  exterminating  mealy  bug  from 
Vines.  I  have  never  had  experience  of  the  gas, 
but  having  recently  taken  over  a  new  charge,  I 
have  had  plenty  of  experience  of  the  pest  in  both 
the  early  and  late  vineries.  I  have  closely  peeled 
the  rods  and  dressed  them  with  paraffin  emulsion, 
and  then  applied  the  old-fashioned  remedy  of  soot, 
sulphur  and  clay  mixed  with  paraffin  emulsion. 
I  noted  Mr.  G.  Wythes's  remarks  in  your  issue  of 
January  30,  and  also  Mr.  J.  E.  Simms's  in  the 
issue  for  February  20,  and,  in  consequence,  when 
overhauling  the  late  Vines  recently,  I  took  par- 
ticular notice  of  the  various  patches  of  mealy 
bug  found.  In  many  instances  they  were  easily 
discernible  in  theerevioes  of  the  bark  and  around 
the  spurs,  but  in  a  good  many  cases  they  were 
found  under  what  was  apparently  tight  bark, 
which  required  a  fair  amount  of  force  to  strip  it 
oflf.  Now  the  question  arises.  Will  the  fumes  of 
hydrocyanic  acid  gas  penetrate  under  such  tight- 
fitting  and  well-protected  haunts  and  destroy  the 
colonies  there  found '!  If  it  will,  another  boon 
will  have  been  conferred  on  many  an  unfortunate 
Vine-grower,  for  which  he  will  be  very  grateful. 
Personally,  I  feel  rather  doubtful,  unless  the  gas  is 
many  times  more  penetrating  than  any  vaporis- 
ing substance  I  have  yet  tried  as  a  fumigant. 
Have  we  no  other  readers  of  The  Gakden  who 
can  give  us  some  light  on  this  subject  ? — 
Midland. 

A  National  Vegetable  Society.— 
As  your  correspondent  "  A  Lover  of  Good 
Vegetables "  says.  Why  not  a  National  Vege- 
table Society  ?  Surely  there  is  plenty  of  scope 
for  one.  If  a  dozen  or  so  societies,  each  devoted 
to  one  flower,  can  keep  going,  surely  vegetables, 
the  most  important  thing  in  the  garden,  should 
have  a  society  devoted  to  them.  The  possibili- 
ties for  doing  good  by  an  energetically-conducted 
society  are  endless.  There  could  be  trials  of 
vegetables  all  over  the  country  on  different  soils, 
which  would  be  of  great  value,  for  one  cannot 
expect  the  seedsman  to  publish  the  results  of  his 
trials.  Also,  I  would  suggest  that  there  might 
be  a  really  good  book  on  vegetable -cooking 
published  ;  it  is  badly  needed.  Of  course,  other 
societies  would  be  amalgamated  for  a  small 
fee.     Surely  there  are  sufficient  gardeners  really 


interested  in  vegetable  culture  to  make  such  a 
society  a  success.  Why  !  applications  for  member- 
ship would  pour  in.  Now,  who  is  bold  enough 
to  start  it  ?  The  Temple  Show  will  soon  be 
here  and  hundreds  of  gardeners  will  be  there, 
and  what  better  chance  of  giving  it  a  start  than 
by  calling  a  meeting  at  that  date  ? — W.  P.  Wood, 
Oalclands  Gourl,  Keni.  [We  hope  our  correspon- 
dent's suggestion  will  be  taken  up ;  The  Garden 
will  support  any  movement  that  is  made  on 
business-like  lines. — Ed.] 
Iron  OP  wooden  hoops  fpom  tubs. 

Can  any  reader  inform  me  where  iron  or  wooden 
hoops  from  old  tubs  can  be  procured? — (Mrs.) 
W.  S. 

Stephanotis  flopibunda  in  South 
AfPlCa. — I  enclose  a  photograph  of  a  fine  plant 
of  Stephanotis  floribunda  ;  the  plant  is  21  feet 
high  and  9  feet  through.  I  was  recently  on  a 
business  visit  to  Mrs.  Van  der  Byl,  Mont 
Clair,  Wynberg,  and  greatly  admired  this  very 
fine  specimen,  and  a  few  days  later  the  lady  sent 


9TEPHAN0TIS   FLORIBUNDA   IN   SOUTH   AFRICA. 

me  the  photograph.  I  post  it  on  to  you  thinking 
it  may  be  of  interest. — Chas.  Ayres,  St.  Oeorge's 
Street,  Cape  Town. 


THE    AURICULA    AND 
POLYANTHUS   EXHIBITION. 

WHETHER  due  to  the  lateness  of 
the  season,  which  has  doubtless 
severely  handicapped  growers 
of  Auriculas,  or  whether  due 
to  some  declining  interest  in 
these  hardy  spring  flowers,  it  is 
too  certain  that  the  show  of  the  National  Auricula 
Society  (Southern  Section),  held  in  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Hall,  Westminster,  on  the  20th 
ult. ,  was  the  smallest  we  have  yet  seen. 
But  judging  by  what  is  seen  at  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society's  meetings,  as  well  as  by 
personal  experience,  Auriculas  have  in  the  spring 
now  very  formidable  competitors  in  other  hardy 
flowers,  and  it  can  be  no  matter  for  surprise  if 
Daffodils  and  Tulips  especially,  and  many  other 
hardy  things  which  furnish  such  wealth  of  bloom 
and  beauty,  may  find  the  majority  of  admirers. 
But  if  the  Auricula,  and  especially  the  show  or 
edged  section,  be  not  of  striking  effect,  it  has, 
as  also  have  the  more  beautiful  alpines,  features 
that  have  great  merits  in  the  estimation  of  the 
true  florist,  and  it  is  to  that  section  of  flower- 


lover  we  must  look  to  to  keep  the  cult  of  the 
Auricula  in  its  ancient  popularity. 

In  the  premier  class  for  shows,  including  edged 
and  self  flowers,  Mr.  James  Douglas  of  Great 
Bookham  was  well  first  and  Mr.  Shipman  of 
Altrincham  second.  But  in  the  first-prize  lot 
were  ten  selfs  out  of  the  twenty-four,  and  of  these 
very  telling  were  Favourite,  Harrison  Weir, 
Queen  of  Spain  and  Queen  of  Sheba.  But, 
generally,  the  flowers  showed  the  effects  of  too 
much  warmth  and  had  opened  too  prematurely. 
In  the  class  for  twelve  plants  only  two  collec- 
tions were  seen,  thus  showing  how  severely 
limited  was  the  competition.  Mr.  Douglas's 
only  competitor  was  Mr.  W.  Smith,  an  amateur, 
of  Bishop's  Stortford.  Of  edged  flowers  Lap- 
wing, green ;  Conservative  and  Snowdrop, 
white;  and  George  Lightbody  and  Beauty,  grey 
edged,  were  the  best.  There  were  classes  for 
single  plants  of  the  respective  sections,  Abb6 
Liszt  being  the  best  green  edged,  Stately  the 
best  grey  edged.  Acme  of  white  edged,  and 
Favourite,  having  a  ground  of  violet  blue,  was  the 
best  of  the  selfs.  A  single  dozen  of  those  quaint 
coloured  varieties  classed  as  fancies  were  all  in 
that  section. 

The  more  attractive  and  easily  grown  alpines 
kept  the  show  from  failure,  as  while  those  in 
their  classes  brought  limited  competitions,  they 
were  singularly  beautiful  and  aroused  warm 
interest.  Composed  of  those  having  rich  golden 
centres  and  of  others  having  white  or  cream 
centres,  all  plants  to  be  true  alpines,  quite 
devoid  of  farina  or  powder,  there  could  be  no 
question  but  that  the  gold  centres  with  their 
borders  of  some  deep  rich  hue  attracted  most 
notice.  Mr.  Douglas  was  an  easy  first  in  the  class 
for  twenty-four,  as  also  in  that  for  twelve  plants, 
although  here  Messrs.  Phillips  and  Taylor  of 
Bracknell  followed  close  on  his  heels.  Such 
varieties  as  Purple  Glow,  Firefly,  Argus, 
Phyllis,  Rosy  Morn,  Mars,  The  Queen, 
Majestic  and  Her  Grace  were  specially  fine. 
In  these  classes  a  few  seedlings  attracted  more 
than  ordinary  notice  because  of  the  size  of  the 
flowers  and  their  striking  colouring,  although, 
perhaps,  they  would  hardly  have  satisfied  the 
old  rigid  Auricula  florists,  of  whom  few  seem 
now  to  remain.  But  we  should  like  to  see  from 
such  varieties  as  these  a  new  and  distinct 
section  formed  out  of  alpines  under  the  title 
of  "decorative."  They  seem  to  have  in  them 
the  qualities  so  badly  needed  in  border  Auriculas, 
and  if  the  term  "decorative"  were  made  to 
include  hardy  border  varieties,  very  much  indeed 
might  be  done  to  create  new  interest  in  the 
Auricula,  because  if  there  is  one  who  grows 
for  exhibition,  a  hundred  grow  them  for  garden 
decoration.  For  that  special  purpose  very 
beautiful  were  Admiration,  blush  mauve,  flower 
large  and  borne  on  stiff,  erect  stems ;  Robert 
Bruce,  white  centre,  ground  maroon,  laced  with 
pale  mauve  ;  and  UUeswater,  white  centre,  violet 
blue  ground,  shading  off  to  mauve.  Phyllis  and 
Orion  might  well  be  added  to  this  section. 

Mr.  F.  W.  Price  of  Beokenham  showed  six  alpine 
seedlings,  all  having  gold  centres,  of  fine  form 
and  real  beauty.  That  such  charming  varieties 
come  from  seed  shows  how  possible  it  is  for  an 
amateur  to  raise  delightful  things  for  himself  in 
that  way.  True,  when  grown  under  glass  for 
exhibition,  or  even  for  personal  enjoyment,  the 
alpine  Auricula  is  a  glorious  amateur's  flower. 
Would  that  we  had  an  outdoor  race  as  attractive 
and  as  beautiful.  What  raiser  will  create  it? 
Of  gold-laced  Polyanthuses  there  were  none. 
These  seem  to  be  going  fast  to  oblivion.  As  to 
the  fine  showy  border  section,  not  a  plant  in 
some  collections  merited  notice.  The  plants  from 
Mr.  Mortimer  of  Farnham,  Mr.  J.  Crook  of 
Camberley,  and  some  of  those  from  Messrs. 
Storrie  and  Storrie  of  Scotland  gave  excellent 
flowers,  showing  colour,  form  and  substance ; 
but  so  many  others  had  thin,  pallid  or  rough- 
edged  flowers  that  they  added  nothing  to  the 
show.  We  had  better  by  far  twenty  years 
ago.  A.  D. 


•21-2 


THE    GARDEN. 


(May  1.  1909. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


THE    ALMONDS    AND    PEACHES. 

aMONG    ornamental    flowering    trees   the 

/\  various  representatives  of  the  Prunus 

/  %         family  occupy  a  front  place,  a  great 

/      \        many  species    being  really   first-rate 

I         \     decorative    plants.      The    genus    is 

divided  into  various  groups,  each  of 

which   has   at   a   former    period    been   awarded 

generic  rank.   Modem  botanists,  however,  include 

the  Almonds,  Peaches,  Cherries,  Plums,  Apricots, 

Bird  Cherries  and  Laurels  as  distinct  groups  only 

of  Prunus.     In  dealing  with  the  various  sections  it 

is  impossible  to  say  that  one  is  more  useful  than 

another,  for  each  has  its  special  value  and  each 

contains  one  or  more  species  which  could  readily 

be  placed  among   the  first  score  of    ornamental 

trees  and  shrubs. 

The  Almonds  and  Peaches  have  been  known 
respectively  as  Amygdalus  and  Persica,  names 
which  are  now  applied  to  distinguish 
particular  species.  They  are  closely  re- 
lated and  are  included  by  scientists  in 
the  group  Amygdalus.  The  types  are 
well  known  by  reason  of  their  fruit,  but 
it  is  from  a  distinctly  decorative  stand- 
point that  their  merits  are  now  discussed. 
Their  culture  is  of  the  simplest,  and, 
when  once  established,  they,  will  grow  for 
many  years  with  little  attention  save  an 
occasional  thinning.  They  thrive  in  loamy 
soil  and  grow  well  in  almost  any  part  of 
the  country  from  the  North  Midlands 
southwards.  Further  north  they  thrive 
in  the  most  favourable  districts,  but  it 
is  not  advisable  to  place  them  in  very 
cold  or  exposed  positions.  Propagation 
is  usually  eti'ected  by  budding  the  varie- 
ties of  the  common  Almond  and  Peach  on 
to  stocks  of  the  common  Plum  ;  some 
other  members  of  the  group  are  increased 
in  the  same  way,  while  a  few  may  be 
raised    from    cuttings    and    others    from 


Prunus  nana.  It  grows  but  from  2J  feet  to 
4  feet  in  height,  and  forms  an  upright  bush. 
The  flowers  are  rose-coloured  and  are  borne  in 
profusion.  It  is  an  excellent  subject  for  grouping 
in  beds  or  masses.  Several  varieties  are  known, 
the  most  distinct  being  alba,  with  white  flowers, 
and  gessleriana,  with  richer  coloured  flowers  than 
the  type. 

P.  nana  and  its  varieties  are  more  diffi- 
cult to  propagate  than  many  species.  They 
may,  however,  be  successfully  dealt  with  by 
means  of  layers.  P.  davidiana  is  of  recent 
introduction.  The  flowers  are  smaller  than  those 
of  the  Almond,  but  are  borne  in  February.  It  is 
a  native  of  China  and  forms  a  small  tree  with 
numerous  slender  branches.  The  flowers  are 
pale  rose.  A  form  with  white  flowers,  known  as 
alba,  is  even  better  known  than  the  type. 

P.  Persica  (the  Peach)  is  represented  in  gardens 
by  several  beautiful,  double-flowered  varieties, 
all  of  which  form  delightful  subjects  for  almost 
any  garden,  large  or  small.     Grouped  in  masses 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 


(Coni 

w 


The  double-flowered  forms  of  the  Peach 
are  excellent  for  forcing,  and  for  this  work 
they  may  either  be  grown  in  pots  and 
pruned  back  annually  after  flowering,  or 
they  may  be  planted  in  an  open  border 
in  May  and  lifted  again  in  October.  It 
is  advisable  to  miss  forcing  the  same 
plants  every  few  years  to  enable  them  to 
recover  strength,  and  in  the  event  of 
plants  becoming  very  weak,  throw  them 
away  and  commence  with  fresh  stock. 
Plants  growing  in  the  open  ground  which 
are  required  to  be  kept  dwarf  may  have 
the  flowering  shoots  cut  back  to  within 
two  or  three  eyes  of  the  base  each  year  as 
soon  as  the  flowers  are  over.  Free-grown 
trees  require  but  little  thinning,  and  this 
ought  not  to  be  overdone  ;  in  fact,  the 
less  cutting  away  of  large  branches  that 
can  be  done  to  any  member  of  the  Prunus  family 
the  better,  for  they  dislike  pruning,  and  show 
their  resentment  by  gumming  and  the  subsequent 
death  of  a  portion  if  not  of  the  whole  tree. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  London  there  is  no 
more  popular  flowering  tree  than  the  common 
Almond  (Prunus  amygdalus).  It  is  met  with  in 
many  suburban  gardens,  either  as  a  low  tree, 
12  feet  to  1.5  feet  high,  or,  more  rarely,  as  a  fairly 
large  tree,  40  feet  in  height,  with  a  trunk  of 
considerable  dimensions.  It  rarely  fails  to  bloom 
profusely,  every  branch  being  thickly  clothed 
with  pretty  rose-coloured  flowers.  The  type  is 
the  most  common,  but  there  are  numerous  very 
useful  varieties.  A  few  of  the  best  are  :  Alba, 
with  white  flowers  ;  dulcis  (the  Sweet  Almond) ; 
macrocarpa,  with  very  large  flowers  ;  and  persi- 
ooides,  a  form  which  flowers  ten  days  or  a 
fortnight  in  advance  of  the  type. 

The  Russian  Almond  might  readily  be  said  to 
be  a  miniature  form  of  the  common  Almond.  It  is 
a  native  of  Southern  Russia  and  is  known  as 


THK   KAKE   SAX1I'BAc;A   STRIBKRVI.     (^Natural  ruf.     tiee  page  rUI,.) 


of  a  dozen  or  so  together  they  present  a  charming 
feature,  while  isolated  specimens,  either  standing 
!  on  a  lawn  or  used  as  dot  plants  in  shrubberies,  have 
much  to  commend  them.  The  various  varieties 
exhibit  a  wide  range  of  colour  from  pure  white  to 
rich  red. 

For  general  effect  the  red  -  flowered  forms 
are  the  best,  but  the  pinks  and  whites  are 
also  handsome.  The  best  double  white  is  known 
as  flore  albo  plena  ;  good  pinks  or  rose-coloured 
varieties  are  Clara  Meyer  and  flore  roseo  pleno, 
while  first-rate  reds  are  magnifioa  and  dianthi- 
flora  plena.  An  ornamental-leaved  variety  is 
met  with.  This  has  purple  leaves  and  is  known 
as  foliis  rubris. 

Although  the  above-mentioned  sorts  are  the 
best  known  examples  in  the  group  under  notice, 
there  are  other  useful  species,  of  which  the  follow- 
ing are  representatives  :  P.  incana,  a  dwarf  plant 
from  Asia  Minor  ;  P.  Jacquemontii,  a  shrubby 
species  from  Afghanistan ;  and  P.  Simonii,  a  small 
tree  from  Cliina.  W.  l)ALLiMoaK. 


THE     SMALL    GEEENHOUSE    FOR 
PLEASURE   AND    PROFIT. 

(Continued  from  page  lUiJ.) 

HAT  TO  GROW.— Having  said 
so  much  concerning  the  right 
sort  of  greenhouse,  its  general 
aspect  and  heating,  we  may  now 
consider  what  crops  to  grow. 
In  this  connexion  there  is  an 
intimate  association  between  what  to  grow  and 
the  internal  arrangement  of  the  house.  The 
house,  for  example,  with  open  or  available  space 
beneath  the  stage  in  far  in  advance  of  the  house 
with  a  solid  earth  stage.  For  instance,  in  the 
former  ease  Mint,  Endive,  Mushrooms,  Seakale, 
Rhubarb  and  other  things  may  be  dealt  with  at 
practically  no  cost.  Fuchsias,  Dahlias,  Begonias, 
Gloxinias  and  the  like  may  be  stored  in  safety, 
and  ever  ready  for  inspection  ;  hence  the 
house  with  available  space  below  the  stage 
is  far  and  away  the  best,  because  pro- 
viding a  maximum  of  room  in  a  minimum 
of  space  superficially. 

How  to  Comtruct  the  Stage. — The  up- 
rights or  legs  should  be  of  1  inch  iron 
piping  let  into  the  floor  in  concrete, 
countersunk  into  a  piece  of  quartering 
at  the  top  and  the  quartering  let  into  the 
wall  to  ensure  rigidity.  The  iron  pipe 
and  wood  form  the  letter  L  placed  side- 
ways, and  is  called  a  "  knee."  The  central 
staging  is  similarly  made  with  longer 
pieces  of  wood  quartering,  and  rigidity 
may  be  secured  by  wood  ties  between  or 
under  the  wood.  By  covering  the  entire 
stage  supports  with  galvanised  iron 
sheets,  and  finally  ashes,  to  retain  which 
a  wood  beading,  4  inches  by  three-quarters 
of  an  inch,  is  fixed  around  the  edge,  we 
have  a  perfectly  simple  stage,  practically 
indestructible.  In  any  case  it  is  good 
for  a  score  of  years,  and  we  will  imagine 
such  an  arrangement  exists.  Such  a  house 
as  this  is  adapted  to  grow  many  things — 
Tomatoes  on  the  side  stages  in  summer, 
with  Fuchsias,  Carnations,  Begonias,  &c. , 
on  the  central  stage.  In  addition,  a  Grape 
Vine  may  be  planted  at  one  end  to  train 
up  the  glass. 

The  Tomato. — Carter's  Sunrise  Tomato 
is  one  of  the  best  to  grow.  To  obtain 
good  fruits  early  in  the  season,  the  seeds 
should  be  sown  in  January  or  early  in 
February.  As  not  a  large  number  of 
plants  will  be  required,  it  will  be  best 
to  take  one  or  two  very  shallow  boxes, 
with  holes  bored  in  the  bottom  for  drain- 
age, and  some  fine  and  very  sandy  soil, 
pressed  moderately  firm  and  made  level, 
for  sowing  the  seeds.  Place  the  seeds  1  inch 
apart  each  way,  and  so  from  the  first 
secure  a  strong,  sturdy  growth.  Thickly-sown 
seeds  quickly  ruin  each  other  when  grown  into 
plants  ;  therefore,  sow  the  seeds  thinly,  as 
stated,  and  save  time  and  the  disappointment 
from  failures.  Sown  thinly  and  covered  very 
lightly  with  fine  soil,  the  young  plants  may 
remain  in  the  seed-boxes  till  about  3  inches  high, 
when  they  should  be  potted  singly  into  3-inoh 
pots.  Where  very  early  fruits  are  required,  the 
plants  may  be  grown  and  fruited  in  9-inoh  pots, 
and  in  this  way  may  occupy  the  side  stages  and 
the  central  stage  also.  Where  a  main  crop  of 
Tomatoes  is  desired,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  place  a 
9-inoh  plank  along  the  side  stage  and  12  inches 
from  the  wall,  so  as  to  form  a  trench  or 
cavity,  and  fill  the  latter  with  garden  soil  for 
growing  the  plants,  which,  in  this  instance, 
should  be  trained  up  the  roof-bars.  The  young 
plants  should  be  planted  out  as  soon  as  estab- 
lished in  the  small  pots,  and  for  some  weeks 
later  the  remaining  portion  of  the  front  stage  could 
be  occupied  with  bedding  plants  for  the  garden. 


May  1,  1909.1 


THE    GAltJJEN. 


213 


Hoio  to  Plant  a  Vine. — The  Black  Hamburgh 
is  a  useful  variety  to  start  with,  and  what  is 
known  as  a  "  fruiting  "  Vine  should  be  purchased. 
In  this  instance  a  large  bed  must  be  prepared 
outside  the  wall  of  the  greenhouse,  using  good 
loam,  bone  meal  and  a  little  old  stable  manure, 
the  whole  freely  mixed  together.  In  planting 
the  Vine,  it  should  be  knocked  out  of  its  pot, 
the  whole  of  the  soil  gently  shaken  away  and 
the  root-fibres  carefully  laid  out  thinly  in  open- 
fan  shape  in  the  prepared  soil  ;  then,  by  taking 
the  rod,  or  stem,  through  a  hole  in  the  brick- 
work, the  Vine  may  be  trained  to  the  roof-bars 
of  the  house.  Planting  may  be  done  any  time 
during  February  and  March,  the  earlier  the 
better.  In  a  special  Vine-house  the  border  is 
best  made  inside ;  but  a  greenhouse  does  not 
usually  admit  of  this.  E.  H.  JB^■KI^s. 

(To  be  continued.) 


the  tree  to  be  planted  in  the  corner  of  the  house. 
This  tree  was  reputed  to  produce  2,000  market- 
able blooms  each  season,  without  the  assistance 
of  artificial  heat.  J.  Lawi.ess. 


STOPPING  AND     TIMING     CHRY- 
SANTHEMUMS. 
[In  answer  to  A.  B.  C] 
Treat  your  plants  as  follows  if  you  desire  large 
and  attractive  blooms  : 

Ar„™„  "''"'"  '» StoiJ  the        Which  Bwh 

""'"*•  Plmits.                  tn  Relaiii. 

General  Hutton     . .  Second  week  in  May  First  crown 

F.  S.  Vallia            ..  Natural  break..     .. 

Mrs.  .T.  Thomycroft  Third  week  in  May              ,, 

Mme.  Carnot  ..  Mid-April Second  crown 

Mrs.  W.  Mease  ,,         ,, 

Nellie  Pockett  At  once     ,, 

Mrs. George  Mileham  Natural  break. .     ..  First  crown 

Mrs.  E.  Hummel    ..     At  once     Second  ciown 

Edith  Tabor   . .     . .  Second  week  in  May  First  crown 

Charles  Shrimpton  Third  week  in  May              ,, 

Godfrey's  King  At  once    Second  crown 

Hairy  Wonder       . .  Natural  break       . .  First  crown 

Mrs.  Barkley   ..     ..    At  once    Second  crown 

Mrae.  G.  Debrie     . .     Mid-April ,, 

\lroe.  P.  Kadaelli  . .    May  10       First  crown 

.1.  R.  Upton     . .     . .  Second  week  in  May              ,, 

Vicarof  LeatherheaJ  Third  week  in  May              ,, 

W.  R.  Church  . .  Natural  break . .     . .  Second  crown 

Mr.  T.  Carriogton . .  Second  week  in  May  First  crown 

Le  Grand  Dragon  . .    At  once    Second  crown 

Scottish  Chief- .     . .  .Second  week  in  May  First  crown 

George  Pen  ford  Natural  break. .     ..               ,, 

Countess  of  Arran . .  Third  week  in  May              ,, 

Dorothy  Py  well  EndofApiil    ....               ,, 

Queen  Alexandra  . .  Third  week  in  May              ,, 

Mary  A.  Pockett    . .     At  once     Second  crown 

Mrs.  J.  C.  Dunn     . .  Third  week  in  May  First  crown 

Lord  Ludlow   ..     ..  Natural  break . .     ..             ,, 

.r.  H.  Silsbury..     ..  ,,         Second  crown 

Mrs.  E.  Thirkell  „         „      ..     .. 

Colonel  Weatheral  Second  week  in  May  First  crown 

The  King Third  week  in  May              ,, 

Hero  of  Oradurman  ,,              ,,                    ,, 

Algernon  Davis      ..  Natural  break. .                     ,, 

Reginald  Vallis      . .    At  once     Second  crown 

Mr.  H.  Tucker        . .  Second  week  in  May  First  crown 

Beatrice  May         . .    At  once     Second  crown 

Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller  . . 

Hon.  Mrs.  Ackland  ,,         ,, 

Mrs.  W.Knox..     ..  Natural  break . .     ..              ,, 

W.  Duckham  ..  At  once     ,, 

Mme.  Oberthur     . .    May  10      First  crown 

R.  H.  Pearson . .     ..  Second  week  in  May              ,, 

N.  C.  S.  Jubilee     . .  Third  week  in  May              „ 

Modesto    Second  week  in  May              ,, 

Mme.  Ferlat  (inc.). .  ,,              „                    ,, 

The  other  names  are  either  decorative  varieties 
or  are  unknown  to  us. 


ROSE  STOCKS  AND  THEIR  USES. 
There  must  be  a  large  number  of  readers  who 
would  like  to  know  something  about  the  various 
stocks  that  are  often  mentioned  in  reference  to 
Rose-growing.  This  question  of  stocks  is  no 
new  subject.  It  has  been  written  about 
probably  as  much  as  any  detail  connected  with 
the  culture  of  the  Queen  of  Flowers.  Some  may 
say.  Why  use  stocks  at  all?  Why  not  raise 
Roses  from  cuttings  ?  This,  I  grant,  would  be  very 
commendable  if  it  were  possible.  Perhaps  it  is 
possible,  but  so  far  no  nurseryman  has  come 
forward  with  own-root  Roses  as  a  speciality.  I 
am  certain  that  by  taking  cuttings  early  in 
February  from  thoroughly  healthy  growths  of 
forced  Roses,  own-root  plants  could  be  produced 
of  every  sort  equal  in  size  to  grafted  plants. 
One  great  hindrance  to  the  development  of  such 
a  business  would  be  the  matter  of  cost  of  pro- 
duction. It  is  well  known  that  all  the  rambler 
and    wichuraiana    tribes    may     produce    grand 


ripened  growths  gathered  from  the  hedgerows. 
They  are  made  in  lengths  of  about  8  inches,  and 
all  eyes  or  buds  are  removed  save  two  at  the  top. 
la  planting  the  cutting  it  must  be  buried  fully 
6  inches  or  7  inches  in  the  soil.  The  rooted 
cuttings  are  transplanted  in  about  eighteen 
months  and  budded  the  same  summer. 

The  seedling  Briar  is,  naturally,  raised  from 
seed.  It  is  produced  by  the  million,  chiefly  by 
the  French  and  German  nurserymen.  It  is  the 
stock  for  Tea  Roses,  and  while  it  has  a  tendency 
to  go  downwards,  the  severing  of  the  tap  root 
will  usually  induce  a  more  branching  root, 
especially  if  the  soil  is  rather  shallow.  The 
deep-rooting  tendency  is  a  valuable  trait  where 
autumnal  Roses  are  appreciated.  Plants  on  the 
seedling  Briar  will  be  in  bloom  when  those  on 
the  Briar  cutting  and  Manetti  stock  are  shedding 
their  foliage.  The  seedling  Briar  was  popularised 
by  the  late  George  Prince,  although  grown 
extensively  before  his  day.  The  standard  Briar 
is  used  for  making  tree  Roses.  These  Briars  are 
obtained  from  the  hedgerows.  They  are  becom- 
ing more  scarce  every  year,  and  growers  are 
turning  their  attention  to  other  means  of 
producing  standard  Roses,  using,  for  instance, 
the  .Japanese  or  Rugosa  Rose  for  the  purpose  : 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 

ROSE    MARECHAL    NIEL. 

THE  illustration  depicts  a  spray  of 
Mar^ohal  Niel  Roses  out  from  a  tree 
probably  more  than  half  a  century 
old  in  the  gardens  of  Sir  Walter 
Smythe,  Bart.,  at  Acton  Burnell, 
and  from  which  we  cut  hundreds  of 
fine  blooms  annually.  The  tree  is  trained  to  the 
roof  of  a  cool  greenhouse  and  planted  on  the 
shady  side  of  the  house  close  to  the  slab  path- 
way. The  finest  specimen  of  Mar^chal  Niel  it 
has  been  my  fortune  to  see  was  growing  in  some 
old  vineries  at  Bell  Hall,  Washington,  Durham  ; 
it  was  planted  against  the  back  wall  of  an  old 
vinery,  giving  the  impression  that  a  slab  of 
the  pathway  had  been  lifted  to  make  room  for 


A    SPRAY    OF    ROSE    MARECHAL    NIEL. 


plants  on  their  own  roots  [in  two  years,  [and 
even  in  one  year  fine  healthy  little  plants  may 
be  obtained.  That  these  own-root  ramblers 
far  outstrip  the  budded  plants  is  well  known  to 
a  number  of  Rose-growers,  and  many  could 
testify  to  the  fact  of  certain  varieties  of  Tea 
Roses  making  vastly  superior  plants  to  those 
that  are  budded. 

But  own-root  plants  are  not  my  theme  just 
now.  What  I  propose  to  say  a  few  words  about 
are  the  various  stocks  employed  in  the  great  Rose- 
growing  industry.  Doubtless  the  Dog  Rose 
(Rosa  canina)  is  the  most  favoured  stock,  and  it  is 
essentially  the  stock  for  Tea  Roses.  There  are 
three  forma  in  which  the  Dog  Rose  is  employed 
as  a  stock,  namely,  Briar  cutting,  seedling  Briar 
and  standard  or  short  standard.  The  Briar 
cutting  is  the  most  popular  as  a  dwarf  stock  with 
exhibitors,  because  it  can  be  fed  or  manured  more 
readily  by  reason  of  its  roots  spreading  instead  of 
striking  downwards,  as  do  those  of  the  seedling 
Briar.  Who  invented  the  Briar  cutting?  I 
believe  I  am  correct  when  I  say  it  was  the  Rev. 
E.  N.  Pochin  who  first  thought  of  using  the  Dog 
Briar  in  this  form.  It  is  a  splendid  stock  when 
carefully  made,  and  will  produce  grand  plants 
and  wonderful  blooms.  Amateurs  should  make 
a  number  of  these    cuttings    in    October   from 


but  it  must  be  confessed  they  make  very  ugly, 
crooked  stems.  Standard,  half-standard  or 
quarter-standard  Briars  produce  the  finest  Tea 
Rose  blooms,  and  are  the  mainstay  of  exhibitors 
of  this  delightful  group. 

Very  tall  hedgerow  Briars  are  used  for  the 
making  of  weeping  Roses,  and  there  is  a  great 
demand  for  such  trees.  It  is  said  that  the  late 
Thomas  Rivers  first  introduced  the  standard 
Rose.  This  famous  nurseryman  also  intro- 
duced from  Italy  the  Manetti  stock,  which  is 
still  valuable,  although  much  decried  by  certain 
Rose-growers.  Tea  Roses  will  not  grow  upon  it 
outdoors,  but,  strangely  enough,  our  American 
friends  are  using  it  extensively  for  the  Catherine 
Mermet  tribe  and  other  Tea  Roses  under  glass 
instead  of  the  own-root  plants  they  formerly 
advocated.  Undoubtedly,  the  exhibitor  would 
miss  the  Manetti  stock,  for  it  gives  him  some  of 
his  grandest  early  blooms  of  the  Hybrid  Per- 
petual group.  Certain  Hybrid  Teas  do  well  on 
the  Manetti,  and  the  rambler  and  wichuraiana 
groups  succeed  better  on  this  stock  than  on  any 
other.  These,  then,  are  the  chief  Rose  stocks 
employed  to-day.  Some  recommend  the  Poly- 
antha,  De  la  Grifferaie,  Laxa  and  Indica  stocks, 
but  the  amateur  will  do  well  to  content  himself 
with  those  named.  P. 


214 


TliE     GAllDEN. 


I  May  1,  1909. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


T 


WATER   AND    BOG    PLANTS. 

HE     healthy    stimulus    given    to    the 
cultivation  of  vpater  plants  by    the 
excellent  displays  yearly  at  the  great 
horticultural   exhibitions   in   London 
and  elsewhere,  while   in   themselves 
eminently  instructive  and  suggestive, 
also  indicate  a  sound  advance  in  this  branch  of 
gardening.     To  amateurs  there  is  often    a   real 
difficulty  in  availing  themselves, 
in  practice,  of  these  water-loving 
treasures,  even  if  only  attempted 
in    a    small   way,    and    for    this 
reason  I  offer  the  following  sug- 
gestions in    the    hope   that   they 
may  benefit. 

The  Site  of  a  water  garden 
increases  in  natural  effect  if  a  low- 
lying  position  in  the  garden  is 
selected,  and  if  possible  removed 
from  such  parts  as  are  treated  on 
geometrical  or  formal  lines.      A  (j 

certain  amount  of  excavation  is 
advisable,  as  the  soil  so  obtained 
can  be  used  to  give  an  un- 
dulating effect  to  the  surround- 
ings. However  small  the  scale, 
the  ground  not  contained  in  bedN 
or  under  water  will  be  covered 
by  turf,  as  this  form  of  approach 
is  enjoyable  throughout  summer 
and  autumn,  the  seasons  when 
water  plants  are  at  their  best. 

The  Position  is  of  great  im- 
portance in  small  gardens  where 
there  are  forest  trees  near  «t 
hand,  as  nothing  attracts  their 
roots  more  readily  than  water, 
80  that  where  these  exist  the 
entire  water-containing  area  is 
best  formed  of  cement-concrete. 
The  aspect  need  not  be  the  sun- 
niest, as  the  majority  of  moisture- 
loving  plants  succeed  with  a  fair 
amount  of  shade  ;  the  part, 
however,  devoted  to  Nymphseas 
should  enjoy  unbroken  sunshine. 

Construction. — The  sides  and 
bottom  of  all  the  water-containing 
area  require  facing  with  some 
material  impervious  to  water ; 
the  best  natural  medium  is  clay, 
which  rei|uires  to  be  thoroughly 
puddled  together  in  one  con- 
tinuous mass  and  from  9  inches 
to  12  inches  in  thickness,  accord- 
ing to  the  area  treated.  The 
best  artificial  medium  is  cement- 
concrete,  which  is  generally  put 
down  in  double  layers.  The  first 
coat  consists  of  gravel  and  cement 
(Portland),  and  when  fairly  set 
this  is  faced  with  sand  and 
cement ;  .3  inches  to  4  inches  is 
generally  sufficient  in  thickness 
unless  the  area  treated  is  very 
great.  Previous  to  employing 
either  clay  or  concrete,  the 
bottom  and  sides  should  be 
thoroughly  rammed  so  that  no 
after-shrinkage  or  subsidence  may 
occur. 

The  Depth  of  the  pond  or  tank  may  be  varied 
to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  different 
occupants,  24  inches  to  30  inches  of  water  being 
necessary  for  the  strongest-growing  Nymphaeas 
(Water  Lilies),  though  it  is  possible  to  have 
quite  a  representative  collection  in  water 
18  inches  in  depth  by  omitting  the  most  robust 
varieties  ;  then  in  12  inches  of  water  Nymphaea 
pygmsea  and  Helvola  will  succeed,  and  in  this 
depth  nearly  all  the  best  of  the  hardy  aquatics  are 
readily  accommodated.  To  increase  the  utility 
of   a  pond   it   is   necessary   to   have   shelves   at 


irregular  intervals  along  the  margin,  and  these 
must  be  made  when  cementing  is  done  and 
formed  of  the  same  material.  The  shelves  will 
be  slightly  below  the  water-level — 6  inches  to 
9  inches  is  sufficient — and  be  filled  with  soil 
raised  9  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 
Plants  readily  find  their  way  to  the  water  by 
means  of  their  roots,  and  such  positions  enable 
us  to  grow  the  whole  range  of  bog  plants  under 
conditions  which  guarantee  success.  These 
shelves  can  be  formed  where  they  can  give 
the  greatest  variety  to  the  water  margin,  and  if 


Planting  is  best  carried  out  from  early  April 
to  the  middle  of  May,  as  this  enables  the  plants 
to  be  effective  the  first  season,  but  Water  Lilies 
may  be  planted  as  late  as  June.  Water  and  bog 
plants  are  capable  of  excellent  effect  when  planted 
in  groups  or  masses  ;  an  extensive  collection  con- 
sisting of  units  would  easily  destroy  or,  at  least, 
lack  character  in  a  well-planned  garden,  so  that 
it  is  always  advisable  to  restrict  the  varieties  and 
increase  the  number  of  each  ;  instances  where 
single  specimens  are  capable  of  good  effect  are 
tolerably  frequent,  and  upon  this  basis  I  give 
below  a  short  list  of  desirable 
plants  for  associating  with  water, 
grouped  under  two  heads,  namely, 
aquatics  and  bog  plants. 

AyuATics. — Floating  on  surface 

of  water:  Aponogetondistachyon, 

white ;  Hottonia  palustris,  white, 

mauve ;     Myriophyllum     proser- 

.  pinacoides.  Fern  foliage ;  Villarsia 

4^  ^        nymphfeoides,  yellow  ;  and  Nym- 

T-  ph«as  in   variety.     Foliage  and 

flowers  boHly projecting:  Alisma 

Plantago,    rose    lilic;     Butomus 

umbellatus,  crimson  purple; 

Juncus   zebrinus,    banded    green 

and  yellow  ;    Pontederia  cordata, 

blue  ;  Ranunculus  Lingua  grandi- 

flora,   yellow ;    Menyanthes    tri- 

i*!i<<      •        foliata,    white  ;     and    Sagittaria 

japonica   plena,    white. 

Bo(i  Plants.  —  To  grow  as 
single  specimens  :  Gunnera  mani- 
cata.  Rheum  palmatum  tanguti- 
cum.  Spiraea  gigantea,  S.  rosea, 
Astilbe  grande,  A.  Davidii,  Saxi- 
fraga  peltata,  Rodgersia  podo- 
phylla,  R.  pinnaia,  Senecio 
elivorum,  S.  wilsoniana  ;  and 
Caladium  eeculentum  (not  hardy). 
To  grow  in  groups  :  Astilbes  in 
variety,  Spirajas  in  variety,  Sisy- 
rinchium  striatum,  Lilium  par- 
dalinum,  &c.,  Cypripediuni 
speetabile,  Epilobium  album, 
Tradescantia  in  variety.  Ranun- 
culus aconitifolius  plena,  Helo- 
nias  buUata,  Mertensia  virginica, 
Osmunda  and  Struthiopteris 
(Ferns),  tall  Lobelia,  Michaelmas 
Daisies,  Phloxes,  Solidagos  and 
Irises  in  variety.  For  carpet 
plants :  Caltha  palustris  flore- 
plena,  Trilliums,  Dodeeatheons, 
Mimulus  (dwarf  types),  Primulas 
in  variety,  Funkias,  Trollius  (or 
as  groups),  Epiniediums,  Anemone 
rivularis  and  Gillcnia  trifoliata. 
Thomas  Smith. 
Wahmyatt  OartUns,  Louth. 


CROCUSES    IN    THE   GRASS    AT    MARLOW. 

suitably  planted  they  enable  a  gentle  transition 
to  take  place  from  one  part  of  the  garden  to 
another. 

The  Best  Soil  is  that  from  an  old  bog  largely 
composed  of  peat,  which  may  either  be  employed 
by  itself  or  mixed  with  equal  quantities  of  fibrous 
loam.  The  latter  gives  excellent  results  with 
free-growing  plants  when  used  alone  ;  in  any 
case  exclude  lime  in  any  and  every  form,  as  it  is 
almost  futile  to  attempt  to  grow  North  American 
and  Japanese  bog  plants  in  lime-impregnated 
water  or  soil. 


CROCUSES    IN    THE 
GRASS   AT   MARLOW. 

The  accompanying  illustration  is 
from    a   photograph   of  Crocuses 
growing  in   the  grass  in  the  gar- 
dens   at    Whittington,    Marlow. 
the  seat  of  Sir  Hudson  Ewbank 
Kearley.    The  corms  were  planted 
several  years  ago,  and  since  then 
have  been  left  undisturbed.     Un- 
fortunately the   majority   of  the 
flowers    were    closed    when   the 
photograph  was   taken  ;  but  they  still  serve  to 
show  the  good  effect  obtained  by  planting  the 
corms  in  this  way. 


SAXIFRAGA    STRIBNRYI. 

This  exceedingly  rare  plant  was  exhibited  by 
Mr.  R.  Farrer  I  of  Clapham,  Lancaster,  at  a 
recent  meeting  Jof  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  when  it'attracted  a  good  deal  of  atten- 
tion^ from  the  alpine  specialists  present.  The 
plant  has  the  same  closely  imbricated  rosettes  of 


Way  1,  1909.J 


THE     GARDEN. 


215 


greyish  leaves  as  seen  in  S.  Griesbachii,  and, 
indeed,  the  two  inhabit  the  same  region  in  the 
wild  state.  Much  of  the  habit  of  growth  and 
flowering  may  be  seen  in  the  illustration  on 
page  212,  and  the  more  decidedly  forked  inflores- 
cence and  drooping  character  at  once  render 
it  distinct  from  the  better-known  plant.  The 
flowers  are  of  a  reddish  hue,  the  glandular 
pubescent  stems  being  of  a  similar  colour-tone,  a 
fact  which  renders  the  plant  at  once  attractive 
and  distinct.  The  greyish  leaves  have  a  few 
intra-marginal  white  dots,  and  from  quite  an 
early  date  the  plant  is  one  of  exceeding  interest. 
Choice  associates  for  this  rare  gem  are  the 
equally  rare  S.  Frederici  -  Augusti  vera  and 
the  scarce  and  very  fascinating  S.  Griesbachii, 
and  the  trio  possess  certain  characters  in 
common.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN, 


must  have  ample  facilities  for  disposing  of 
surplus  moisture,  which,  if  allowed  to  remain 
long  in  the  soil,  would  cause  it  to  turn  sour 
and  then  act  as  poison  on  the  roots  of  the  trees. 
If  strict  attention  is  given  to  the  details 
already  enumerated,  any  amateur  need  not  hesi- 
tate to  undertake  the  culture  of  Figs  in  pots. 
Thoroughness  must  be  the  grower's  motto, 
and  with  this  ever  before  him  success  is  practi- 
cally assured.  Midland. 


THE  CULTUEE  OF  FIGS  IN  POTS. 

TO  the  notice  of  those  who  cannot 
spare  a  bed  and  the  wall  of  a  glass 
house  for  the  cultivation  of  the 
Fig,  I  would  like  to  bring  the  ease 
of  culture  and  good  results  to  be 
obtained  by  growing  two  or  three 
strong  trees  in  pots.  At  the  outset  it  would  be 
well  to  advise  care  in  the  choice  of  sorts  for  this 
method  of  culture,  as  every  variety  we  are 
acquainted  with  is  not  suitable  for  the  purpose. 
Brown  Turkey  is  probably  the  best  Fig  in 
cultivation  for  general  purposes  and  does  well 
in  pots,  bearing  abundantly  ;  therefore  it  takes 
the  premier  place.  Brown  Ischia  is  not  quite  so 
large  as  the  preceding  variety,  but  the  flavour 
is  very  rich  and  it  bears  well  under  pot  culture. 
The  same  remarks  apply  to  Black  Ischia  as  to  the 
brown  variety,  the  only  difference  being  in  the 
colour  of  the  fruit ;  Black  Ischia  is  ot  a  deep 
purple  with  deep  red  flesh,  while  Brown  Ischia 
is  of  a  light  brown  hue. 

By  growing  the  trees  in  pots  the  roots  get  the 
restriction  so  beneficial  to  prolific  fruit  bearing. 
A  compost  of  good  fibrous  loam,  to  which  has 
been  added  a  fairly  stiff  portion  of  old  mortar 
rubble,  along  with  a  little  well-rotted  manure 
and  some  half-inch  bones,  makes  an  ideal  medium 
for  future  growth.  When  the  trees  have  been 
potted  up  prior  to  starting  them  into  growth, 
they  may  be  taken  into  a  vinery  that  has  just 
been  started,  and  the  conditions  there  will  be 
quite  to  the  liking  of  the  Figs  and  growth  will 
immediately  begin.  As  the  new  shoots  attain 
length  they  should  be  systematically  stopped  at 
the  fifth  or  sixth  leaf,  as  this  helps  to  keep  the 
trees  bushy  and  ot  good  shape,  and  the  labour  of 
pruning  is  greatly  minimised  at  the  end  of  the 
year.  Frequent  waterings  with  liquid  manure 
may  be  given,  and  a  little  artificial  manure 
stirred  into  the  soil  occasionally  during  growth 
tends  to  maintain  the  health  and  vigour  of  the 
trees. 

When  these  have  attained  the  maximum  size 
desired  and  it  is  not  convenient  to  increase  the 
size  of  pot,  collars  of  zinc,  6  inches  wide,  may  be 
placed  round  the  inside  of  the  pot  rim  and  filled 
with  a  rich  compost,  into  which  new  roots  will 
be  pushed  from  the  stem  of  the  tree,  thus 
enabling  the  crop  of  fruit  to  attain  its  proper 
size  without  unduly  taxing  the  resources  of  the 
tree.  After  the  last  of  the  fruits  are  gathered  the 
trees  must  be  given  a  thorough  rest,  giving  them 
the  benefit  of  plenty  of  sun  and  fresh  air  (such 
as  may  be  found  obtaining  in  an  early  vinery  at 
rest),  and  withholding  water  at  the  roots,  so 
that  all  the  wood  may  become  thoroughly  ripened 
and  hard.  Fig  trees  are  very  liable  to  red 
spider,  but  this  can  be  kept  down  by  frequent 
syringings  or  sponging  of  the  foliage.  I  find 
that  I  have  made  no  mention  of  drainage,  which 
must  be  good ;  although  the  Fig  tree  requires 
abundant  supplies  of  water  during  growth,  it 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

American  Blight. — This  name  has  become  so 
widely  used  that  one  scarcely  ever  thinks  of 
giving  the  pest  its  more  correct  appellation  of 
woolly  aphis.  No  matter,  however,  by  what 
name  it  may  be  known,  it  is  one  of  the  worst 
pests  that  appear  in  our  fruit  gardens,  and  no 
one  should  ever  spare  his  efforts  to  eradicate  it. 
This  will  not  be  found  an  easy  matter,  for  the 
aphis  will  establish  itself  most  comfortably  on 
the  roots  of  trees  to  pass  the  winter,  and  it  will 
not  emerge  until  the  warm  days  of  spring,  so 
that  the  ordinary  winter  washings  with  caustic 


well  to  give  instructions  for  its  preparation. 
First  boil  4oz.  of  quassia  in  a  little  water  ;  next 
take  4oz.  of  soft  soap  and  boil  it ;  then  put  the 
two  together  in  one  large  pan  with  a  gallon  or 
rather  more  of  water  and  place  it  on  the  fire  ; 
bring  it  to  the  furious  boil,  and  while  it  is  still 
boiling,  but  with  the  pan  ojf  the  fire,  vigorously 
stir  in  a  wineglassful  of  paraffin.  If  the  stuff  is 
boiling  hard  at  the  time  and  the  stirring  in  is 
done  thoroughly  there  will  come  about  a  perfect 
amalgamation  of  the  oil  with  the  water,  and  the 
result  will  be  a  safe  and  extremely  useful  insecti- 
cide. Application  should  be  made  through  a 
sprayer  throwing  the  finest  possible  film  of  solu- 
tion, as  this  is  far  more  efficacious  and  more 
economical  than  drenchings  that  run  down  the 
whole  tree.  Of  course,  there  are  several  specially 
prepared  washes  which  are  excellent  against  this 
pest,  and  particulars  of  the  most  reliable  of  them 
will  be  found  in  our  advertisement  columns. 

Caterpillars  on  Gooseberries. — In  some 
districts  the  caterpillars,  which  attack  and 
practically  defoliate  the  Gooseberry  bushes, 
appear  every  year,  and  growers  should  make 
strenuous  efforts  to  exterminate  them.     The  most 


A    WATKR  scene   in   a   LINCOLNSHIRE  (iARDBN. 


soda,  good  as  they  undoubtedly  are,  will  never 
suffice  to  ensure  a  complete  riddance  unless  the 
precaution  has  been  taken  of  baring  and  dressing 
the  roots  also.  During  the  summer,  however, 
we  cannot  consider  any  root  washing,  and  must 
confine  ourselves  to  the  branches,  which  are  often 
so  badly  infested  in  neglected  trees  that  the  pest 
looks  like  patches  of  snow.  The  popular,  cheap 
and  easily  compounded  soft  soap,  quassia,  paraffin 
and  water  solution  is  excellent  for  this  as  well  as 
other  enemies  of  the  fruit-grower,  but  in  those 
parts  of  the  tree  which  are  accessible  to  an 
operator  with  a  small  brush  and  a  bottle  of  sweet 
oil,  with  which  to  anoint  the  bodies  of  the  insects, 
this  is  the  great  remedy,  for  all  that  have  been 
painted  will  certainly  be  destroyed.  The  opera- 
tion is  tedious,  but  few  people  object  to  that 
provided  they  know  that  the  steps  they  are 
taking  are  sure  to  be  efficacious.  Methylated 
spirit  is  used  in  the  same  manner  and  is  equally 
reliable,  but  there  is  a  possibility  of  injury  to  the 
young  bark  and  tender  shoots  which  never  arises 
when  the  oil  is  relied  upon. 

Preparing  a  Pakakfin  Solution. — As  the 
solution  referred  to  above  is  commonly  employed 
both  in  vegetable  and  fruit  gardens,  it  may  be 


popular  dressing  is  a  mixture  of  soot  and  lime 
thrown  into  the  plants  while  they  are  damp  after 
rain  or  with  dew  ;  but  the  work  is  by  no  means 
pleasant  to  do  and  is  not  invariably  effectual. 
There  is  really  nothing  to  excel  White  Hellebore 
powder  for  this  pest.  It  should  be  distributed 
into  all  parts  of  the  plants  through  a  bellows 
machine  or  a  powder  distributor,  and  must  reach 
the  under  as  well  as  the  upper  surfaces  of  the 
leaves.  The  great  objection  to  it  is  that  it  is  a 
dangerous  poison,  but  in  the  hands  of  a  careful 
person  it  is  not  easy  to  see  how  any  harm  can 
follow  upon  its  use,  and  the  benefits  it  brings 
cannot  be  questioned. 

Watering. — Trees  trained  to  walls  will  be 
immensely  benefited  by  heavy  soakings  with 
clear  water  and  by  subsequent  applications  of 
weak  liquid  manure  at  this  season  of  the  year. 
It  is  extremely  seldom  that  the  soil  at  the  foot  of 
walls  is  as  moist  as  it  ought  to  be  in  the  interests 
of  the  progress  of  the  trees,  and  to  keep  every- 
thing as  it  should  be  soakings  are  imperative.  As 
soon  as  possible  after  an  application,  the  surface 
soil  should  be  hoed  lightly  over  and  have  a 
mulching  of  short  manure  to  keep  in  the  moisture 
and  the  food.  Fruit-grower. 


116 


THE     GARDEN. 


|May  1,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


riARUEN    WORK    WKEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Sow  more  hardy 
and  half-hardy  annuals  where  space 
is  available,  as  these  will  follow  the 
earlier  sowings  and  so  keep  up  a 
succession  of  flowers.  The  so-called 
Nasturtium  or  Indian  Cress  is  best 
sown  now,  as  by  the  time  the  seedlings  appear 
all  danger  of  frost  will  be  past.  The  climbing 
varieties  are  excellent  for  trailing  over  trellis- 
work,  wire-netting  or  stout  Pea-sticks,  and 
quickly  form  a  pleasant  screen.  If  flowers  are 
deBired,  the  soil  should  not  be  very  rich  for  these 
plants.  Seeds  can  either  be  obtained  in  mixture 
or  in  separate  colours.  The  Tom  Thumb  or 
dwarf  varieties  are  well  adapted  for  growing  in 
tubs,  and  will  thrive  in  almost  any  situation. 
The  thinning  of  annuals  must  be  attended  to 
early  or  the  plants  will  become  drawn  and 
weakened,  a  check  that  no  after-treatment  can 
rectify.  Asters  and  Stocks  may  be  sown  in  the 
open  now  with  every  prospect  of  success.  The 
seeds  must  be  scattered  thinly  and  watered 
frequently  should  the  weather  subsequently 
prove  dry. 

Vegetable.  Garden. — The  first  week  in  May  is  a 
very  good  time  to  sow  Beetroot,  as  the  plants 
quickly  appear  and  grow  away  without  a  check, 
which  is  very  important  if  first-class  roots  are 
desired.  The  Turnip-rooted  varieties  generally 
beonme  ready  for  use  before  the  long-rooted 
8ort.s,  and,  consequently,  some  of  each  should  be 
grown.  Select  a  bed  that  was  well  manured  for 
»i  crop  last  year  and  sow  the  seeds  in  rows  from 
12  inches  to  15  inches  apart  and  1  inch  deep  ;  if 
placed  lower  the  seedlings  frequently  fail  to 
appear.  Savo3'8  and  Kale  to  provide  winter 
greens  should  also  be  sown  now.  Some  growers 
sow  earlier,  but  the  plants  then  become  very 
large  by  the  time  winter  sets  in  and  cannot 
stand  severe  weather  so  well  as  the  smaller  and 
sturilier  specimens.     The  same  remarks  apply  to 


both  sections  of  spring  Broccoli.  French  Beans 
and  Scarlet  Runners  should  be  sown  now  ;  the 
former  should  go  in  rows  15  inches  apart  and 
the  plants  10  inches  to  1  foot  asunder.  For 
Scarlet  Runners  take  out  a  shallow  trench  about 
10  inches  wide  and  sow  the  seeds  "2  inches  deep 
in  the  bottom  of  this  ;  the  trench  will  greatly 
facilitate  watering  during  dry  weather.  When 
Bean  plants  appear  slugs  are  certain  to  do  like- 
wise, and  they  must  be  checked  by  dusting  the 
seedlings  when  damp  with  finely  sifted  coal- 
ashes.  Celery  trenches  should  be  prepared  now 
in  readiness  for  the  plants,  so  that  the  manure 
incorporated  has  time  to  become  settled  and 
mellowed  before  planting-out  time.  Make  the 
trenches  15  inches  wide  and  10  inches  deep  ; 
then  place  a  S-inch  thick  layer  of  good,  partially 
rotted  manure  in  the  bottom  and  dig  it  in  well, 
placing  about  2  inches  of  the  good  soil  removed 
over  all.  This  will  leave  the  trench  about 
5  inches  deep,  which  is  sufficient  for  all  ordinary 
purposes.  Where  it  is  desired  to  grow  Cucumbers 
in  the  open,  dig  out  a  trench  1  foot  deep  and 
IS  inches  wide  and  nearly  fill  this  with  stable 
manure,  replacing  the  soil  taken  out  in  the  first 
instance.  Tread  the  whole  down  moderately 
firm.  If  plants  cannot  be  raised  under  glass, 
.seeds  may  be  sown  in  these  beds  at  once,  placing 
them  2  inolies  deep,  but  first  of  all  damping 
them  and  then  coating  with  red  lead,  as  mice  are 
very  fond  of  them.  A  Ridge  variety  must  bo 
chosen  for  outdoor  culture. 

Frui/  Oarden. — The  principal  work  in  this 
department  at  present  will  consist  of  keeping  the 
soil  frequently  hoed  to  prevent  weeds  growing. 
Should  the  weather  prove  very  dry  and  warm, 
newly  pUnled  trees  or  bushes  will  derive  great 
benefit  from  light  overhead  syringings  twice  daily. 
Do  not  mulch  over  the  roots  of  trees  until  the 
soil  has  become  thoroughly  warmed. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Growth  of  nearly  all 
kinds  will  now  be  very  active  under  glass,  and 
must  plants  will  require  abundant  supplies  of 
water.  Prick  all  seedlings  off  as  they  become 
large  enough  and  ventilate  freely  so  as  to  induce 
a  sturdy  growth  in  all  kinds  of  plants.  Climbers 
on  the  roof  must  have  attention  as  regards 
training  and  thinning,  otherwise  they  will 
quickly  become  a  mass  of  tangled,  unmanageable 
shoots.  Shading,  too,  must  have  close  attention, 
but  there  is  usually  a  tendency  among  amateurs 
to  over  rather  than  under  shade  ;  with  judicious 
ventilation  many  plants  will  stand,  and  be 
benefited  by,  more  sunshine  than  is  generally 
supposed.  All  root  plants  will  now  be  growing 
Ireely  and  will  need  more  water.  Keep  the 
foliage  clean  and  stand  the  plants  outside  during 
warm  showers,  taking  care  that  they  do  not  get 
blown  over  and  thus  damaged.  H. 


-I'LANT  OF    POT    MARJORAM    SUITABLE    FOR 
INCREASING    BY   DIVISION. 


TWO    USEFUL    HERBS. 

Incrkasino  Mar-iobam  and  Winter  Savory. 
Herbs  are  not  regarded  with  so  much  favour  at 
the  present  period  as  they  were  many  years  ago. 
There  was  a  time  when  most  housewives  knew 
the  value  of  most  of  the  more  popular  herbs  and 
the  uses  to  which  they  could  be  put,  and  it  was 
then  the  rule  to  allot  a  certain  quarter  of  the 
garden  to  them,  easy  of  access  to  the  kitchen, 
where  the  demands  of  the  house  might  be  the 
more  easily  met. 

We  propose,  in  the  first  instance,  to  deal  with 
the  pot  Marjoram,  which  is  known  to  the 
botanists  as  Origanum  Onites.  This  is  the 
Marjoram  that  is  more  generally  grown  in  our 
gardens,  and  is  said  to  be  a  native  of  Sicily. 
The    plant   is    a    well-known    hardy    perennial. 


There  are  many  uses  to  which  pot  Marjoram  may 
be  put  :  but  the  young  shoots  and  leaves  are 
more  generally  utilised  for  flavouring  and 
seasoning  purposes.  It  is  nothing  short  of  a 
misfortune  that  the  many  uses  of  this  and  other 
herbs  are  so  little  understood  by  the  present 
race  of  cooks  and  others  who  are  responsible  for 
making  us  appetising  and  attractive  dishes.  The 
young  shoots  should  be  gathered  as  required  ; 
then  there  is  no  waste. 

To  grow  this  perennial  Marjoram  satisfactorily 
it  is  well  to  take  rather  more  than  ordinary  care 
in  the  preparation  of  soil  of  a  suitable  nature. 
Any  really  good  soil  will  answer  the  purpose 
admirably,  and  this  should  be  well  stirred  and 
broken  up  preparatory  to  the  planting.  The  pot 
Marjoram  should  be  planted  in  a  sunny  position 
if  it  is  to  do  well.     The  plant  may  be  propagated 


2.  —  DIVIDED     rORTrii.N'S    OF    THE   I'LANT  SHOWN 
IN    FIi;.     I. 

in  two  ways  :  First,  by  seeds  sown  outdoors  in 
April  in  shallow  drills  S  inches  to  10  inches  apart. 
A  more  simple  method  of  propagating  this 
subject  is  to  purchase  a  few  roots  (old  plants)  in 
the  spring,  and  deal  with  them  in  the  manner 
shown  in  the  accompanying  illustrations.  A 
reference  to  Fig.  1  will  reveal  the  character  of 
plants  that  may  be  purchased  at  the  present 
period.  Note  the  numerous  young  shoots  in  the 
tuft  therein  presented,  and  also  the  plentiful 
supply  of  roots  that  are  emitted  at  the  base  of 
each  shoot. 

The  divided  pieces  of  the  pot  Marjoram  may 
be  many  and  varied,  and  two  or  three  old  plants 
will  provide  an  abundant  supply  of  suitable 
material.  The  pieces  represented  in  Fig.  2  are 
just  typical  of  the  rest.  The  larger  piece  and 
others  of  a  similar  character  may  be  planted  out 
in  prepared  soil,  1  foot  apart  each  way.  Plant 
firmly,  well  pressing  the  soil  round  the  roots. 
The  smaller  pieces  may  be  planted  in  quarters  to 
themselves ;  2  inches  or  .S  inches  should  be 
allowed  between  the  pieces  of  medium  size,  and 
for  those  of  the  smallest  kind,  1  inch  or  2  inches 


May  1,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


217 


3. — A  PLANT  OF   WINTER  SAVORY  READY  FOR 
DIVISION. 

apart  will  suffice.  Theae  latter  pieces  may  be 
dibbled  in  in  boxes,  using  those  4  inches  to 
6  inches  deep,  and  when  well  established  and 
growing  away  freely,  they  too  should  be  planted 
in  permanent  quarters.  Note  the  numerous  roots 
on  each  divided  piece  ;  there  should  be  no  failures 
to  record  with  sueh  material. 

The  second  herb  to  which  we  wish  to  call 
attention  is  the  oft-requested  Winter  Savory,  a 
hardy  perennial  plant,  known  to  the  botanists  by 
the  name  of  Satureia  montana.  It  is  used 
for  many  culinary  purposes,  and  is  in  special 
request  by  those  who  know  its  real  value  for 
flavouring  soups.  Like  the  Marjoram  already 
dealt  with,  the  Winter  Savory  may  be  raised 
from  seeds  sown  in  the  spring,  and  those  who 
have  the  time  and  convenience  and  can  wait  for 
the  plants  to  mature,  this  is  a  cheap  and  ready 
means  of  rearing  a  large  number  of  plants.  The 
seeds  should  germinate  in  from  seven  to  fourteen 
days,  and  the  resulting  crop  of  plants  will  take  a 
year  to  mature. 

I  prefer,  however,  to  lift  old  plants  and 
divide  these  wherewith  to  increase  our  supply 
of  this  useful  subject.  This  is  cheap  enough, 
and  a  few  old  plants  will  provide  a  goodly 
number  of  suitable  pieces  with  which  to  per- 
petuate the  stock.  Old  plants  in  an  excellent 
state  for  division  may  be  purchased  for  a  few 
pence  each  in  the  spring. 

Pig.  3  represents  the  kind  of  plant  that  may 
be  lifted  for  the  purpose  of  dividing.  It  is  a 
sturdy  little  specimen,  and  if  the  thumbs  and 
fingers  be  pressed  well  down  into  the  base  of  the 
plant,  the  rooted  pieces  will  separate  with  the 
greatest  readiness. 

The  three  divided  pieces  as  represented  in 
Fig.  4  show  the  character  of  theae  rooted  pieces. 
There  is  one  fine  sturdy  branching  piece, 
representing  others  of  a  similar  kind,  that  should 
be  planted  in  rows  in  a  sunny  part  of  the  garden, 
observing  a  distance  of  about  10  inches  between 
the  rows  and  the  same  distance  between  the 
plants  in  the  rows.  Dibble  in  the  other  smaller- 
rooted  pieces  either  in  prepared  quarters  where 
the  soil  is  well  broken  up  and  raked  over  or  in 
fairly  deep  boxes,  where  they  will  quickly 
establish  themselves  and  go  ahead  at  once. 
Observe  a  distance  of  2  inches  or  3  inches 
between  these  smaller  pieces  and  press  the  soil 
firmly  at  the  base  of  each  piece.  Winter  Savory 
prefers  a  fairly  rich  soil  that  is  not  too  heavy. 


The  soil  should  be  well  broken  up  previous  to 
planting.  D.  B.  C. 

YELLOW-FLESHED  POTATOES. 
There  are  many  Potato  connoisseurs  who  believe 
that  the  best  flavour  found  in  the  popular  tuber 
when  cooked  is  in  the  varieties  having  more  or  less 
yellow  flesh.  Without  doubt  the  famous  Ashleaf 
Kidney  owes  some  of  its  admirable  nutty  flavour 
to  that  colour  of  flesh,  and  those  who  can 
remember  that  once-popular  and  very  high- 
flavoured  variety  Paterson's  Victoria  can  also 
remember  that  its  floury  flesh  was  heavily  tinted 
yellow.  But  of  late  years  raisers  of  new  varieties 
seem  to  have  concentrated  their  efforts  on  pro- 
ducing very  white-fleshed  ones,  and  that  hue  is 
the  primary  colour  running  through  the  Up-to- 
Date  strain  ;  flesh  soft,  white,  flaky,  but  lacking 
taste.  Having  had  requests  from  customers  for 
tubers  of  diverse  flesh  and  flavour,  Messrs. 
Sutton  and  Sons  of  Reading  obtained  stocks  of 
several  varieties  quite  distinct  from  those 
generally  in  commerce,  and  grew  them  largely 
last  season  to  test  their  cropping  powers, 
table  quality  and  flavour  when  cooked.  I  saw 
crops  of  some  of  these  in  North  Hants  last 
autumn  when  lifted,  and  found  them  to  be 
excellent  producers.  All  are  of  the  medium  or 
main  crop  section  and  are  capital  keepers. 
Beyond  that  experience  I  have  recently  had  an 
opportunity  to  have  five  varieties  cooked  at 
home,  and  thus  with  members  of  my  family  taste 
them.  Generally  I  found  them  to  be  excellent, 
and  especially  so  were  the  white-skinned  Golden 
Nugget  and  Golden  Perfection.  The  former  had 
the  deepest  yellow  flesh  of  the  batch.  It  was 
firm,  very  clear,  easy  to  masticate,  yet  furnishing 
remarkably  satisfying  food.  It  also  had  the 
highest  flavour.  Golden  Perfection  had  firm, 
starchy  and  almost  floury  flesh,  partially  white 
in  colour,  marked  flavour  and  was  most  pleasant 
eating.  A  third  white-skinned  variety  was  Golden 
Ball.  This,  too,  had  good  yellow  flesh,  was  very 
firm,  and  also  exceedingly  satisfying.  Those  who 
like  a  close-fleshed  yet  dry-eating  Potato 
will  find  this  much  to  their  liking.  The 
very  filling  or  satisfying  quality  of  these 
tubers  serves  to  show  that,  where  such 
are  grown  for  general  food,  as  is  the 
case  in  some  districts,  they  form  much  more 
complete  and  nourishing  diet  than  is  the  case 
with  mere  white-fleshed,  flaky  varieties.  Golden 
Star  has  purple  skin,  and  is  of  rather  firmer 
texture  and  yellower  in  flesh  than  some  others. 
Crimson  Beauty  has  red  skin  with  medium 
yellow  flesh.  A.  D. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

The  Back  Garden.— Usually  the  back  garden 
is  the  chief  area  surrounding,  or  connected  with, 
the  dwelling-house,  and  in  this  space  all  garden- 
ing work  must  be  done.  In  most  oases  the  general 
arrangements,  including  domestic  offices,  are  not 
attractive,  and  so  the  whole  is  made  more  beautiful 
by  putting  in  plants  and  raising  a  number  of  them 
from  seeds.  Thus  we  see  the  importance  and 
value  of  border  and  climbing  plants  for  this  pur- 
pose. During  recent  years  there  have  been 
erected  in  crowded  parts  of  towns — that  is,  in 
districts  where  ■space  is  very  valuable  and  is, 
consequently,  allotted  to  each  dwelling-house 
accordingly — hundreds  of  houses  with  really 
artistic  back  quarters.  Conservatories  and  green- 
houses, where  there  was  sufficient  space  for  them, 
and  open,  glass-covered  verandahs  in  restricted 
positions,  have  been  built.  In  these  structures 
there  is  room  for  pot  plants  and  climbers,  as  well 
as  borders  adjoining  them,  and  which  are  suit- 
able for  spring  and  summer  flowering  subjects. 
Hanging  baskets,  vases  and  tubs,  as  well  as 
window-sill  boxes,  may  be  used  in  these  circum- 
stances with  great  effect.  Some  of  the  most 
suitable  plants  for  the  purpose  are  to  be  found 
among   half-hardy  and  hardy  annuals.     Tropie- 


olums,  single-flowered  Petunias,  white  and  yellow 
Marguerites,  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  blue  Lobelia, 
Alyssum,  sweet-scented  Geraniums,  Mimuluses, 
Fuchsias,  Gazanias,  with  their  lovely  orange 
yellow  flowers,  and  sweet-scented  Verbenas  are 
all  good  kinds  of  plants  and  must  be  duly  pre- 
pared. Simple  arrangements,  both  in  the  baskets, 
tubs  and  boxes,  are  the  most  effective. 

The  Soil. — The  cultivator  must  not  be  tempted 
to  use  ordinary  garden  soil  for  the  filling  of  the 
boxes  and  baskets.  Fibrous  turfy  loam,  leaf- 
soil  and  some  well-rotted  manure  must  be  given 
the  preference.  The  turfy  loam  must  have  been 
cut  just  long  enough  to  allow  of  the  grass  dying 
in  the  turves,  else  the  grass  will  grow  through 
the  sides  of  the  baskets  and  among  the  flowers 
generally.  All  necessary  soil  mixtures  ought  to 
be  kept  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Transplantino  Seedlings. — One  good  strong 
bushy  plant  is  of  more  value  for  planting  out  in 
the  flower  borders  than  three  weakly  ones.  To 
obtain  the  bushy  specimens  the  cultivator  must 
duly  transplant  the  seedlings  ;  and  all  amateur 
gardeners  will  now  possess  a  few,  or  many,  boxes 
of  seedlings  of  half-hardy  annuals.  Do  not  lift 
the  seedlings  singly  by  forcibly  pulling  them  out 
of  the  soil,  but  gently  raise  a  number  of  them 
at  once  with  the  aid  of  a  plant  label.  It  is  in 
this  way  that  the  tiny  but  valuable  roots  are 
preserved.  Then  it  is  equally  necessary  to 
exercise  care  in  the  work  of  transplanting. 
Make  the  holes  large  enough  in  the  nice  light 
soil  to  prevent  undue  crushing,  when  the  roots 
will  quickly  permeate  the  new  soil  and  become 
established  in  it.  As  a  rule  it  is  necessary  to 
transplant  the  seedlings  a  second  time  before 
they  are  finally  planted  in  the  flower-beds.  At 
this,  the  first  transplanting,  all  small-leaved 
plants,  sueh  as  those  of  Asters,  must  be  put  in 
about 'll  inches  apart,  and  large-leaved  ones, 
such  as  those  of  the  Castor  Oil  Plant,  3  inches 
apart. 

Shadinu  and  Watering. — Directly  the  seed- 
lings are  transplanted,  place  the  boxes  containing 
them  in  a  cool  frame  and  nearly  close  the  glass 
lights  for  a  time  ;  but  if  the  sun  shines  brightly 
put  on  a  light  shading,  scrim  or  tiffany  or  any 
kind  of  open  sacking  material  will  do.  More  air 
must  be  admitted  at  the  end  of  four  days, 
and  gradually  the  plants  must  be  thoroughly 
hardened.  Avon. 


4. — DIVIDED    PIECES  OP  THE   PLANT  SHOWN    IN 
FIG.  3. 


218 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  1,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE 


SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 
OSES.— These   will   now  be 
away   freely 


ROSES.— These  will  now  be  growing 
away  freely,  and  the  fine,  bright 
weather  will  hasten  the  growth  of 
those  which  may  to  some  extent 
have  been  injured  by  the  past 
severe  weather.  Keep  the  beds  free 
from  weeds,  and  should  late-planted  plants 
require  water,  attend  to  this  at  once.  Keep  a 
.iharp  look-out  for  maggot  and  aphis,  as  the 
plants  will  need  close  attention  to  keep  them 
free  from  these  pests  ;  if  neglected,  these  will 
quickly  cripple  the  most  promising  buds  and 
shoots.  Aphis  is  quickly  checked  by  syringing 
carefully  with  quassia  extract  or  Tobacco  water 
some  time  during  the  afternoon  :  but  in  dealing 
with  the  maggot,  which  is  more  ditticult,  the 
surest  plan  is  to  give  the  curled  leaves  a  gentle 
squeeze  with  the  finger  a»d  thumb,  after  which 
syringe  with  the  above-mentioned  insecticides. 

Flower  Borders.— These  should  now  be  very 
bright  with  spring  flowers.  If  grouped  in  dif- 
ferent shades  of  colour,  any  alterations  to  be  made 
for  another  year  ought  to  be  noted  before  the 
flowering  is  past.  Keep  the  soil  gently  stirred 
among  the  plants,  but  be  careful  not  to  injure 
any  young  growths  of  other  plants  which  may 
not  have  come  through  the  soil. 

Btdbs. — Where  a  great  number  of  bulbs  are 
forced  annually,  and  where  there  are  shrubberies 
or  a  wild  garden  attached  to  the  place,  the  bulbs 
may  be  planted  therein  at  once. 

Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Apricols.  —Where  these  grow  and  thrive  satis- 
factorily and  a  reasonable  amount  of  wall  space  is 
devoted  to  their  culture,  trees  protected  by  glass 
coping  or  blinds  will  now  be  growing  apace  and 
should  have  the  foreright  and  ill-placed  shoots 
removed  by  an  experienced  hand.  The  aim 
should  be  to  encourage  plenty  of  spurs  and 
young  wood  at  intervals,  and,  if  branches  show 
signs  of  failing,  others  to  take  their  place  ought 
to  be  retained.  Thin  the  fruits  early  if  set  in 
clusters,  leaving  those  best  situated  and  likely  to 
make  the  best  specimens.  Water  freely  if  the 
soil  is  found  to  be  dry.  Keep  the  hoe  freely  plied 
among  all  fruit  bushes  when  the  soil  is  dry,  so 
that  the  weeds  may  quickly  shrivel  up,  taking 
care  not  to  damage  the  young  growths  and  fruit- 
buds. 

drafts.— Exa,mme  all  newly  grafted  trees,  and 
should  the  clay  employed  have  cracked,  smear 
with  fresh,  it  being  of  the  utmost  importance  to 
keep  the  grafts  air-tight.  There  is  still  time  to 
graft  so  long  as  the  scions  are  not  too  advanced. 
A  good  covering  of  moss  over  the  clay,  and  this 
kept  moistened,  will  greatly  assist  the  union  in 
bright  weather. 

Vegetable  Garden. 
Runner  Beans.— A  sowing  of  these  may  now 
be  made  in  warm  situations.  The  land  needs  to 
be  heavily  manured  and  deeply  worked  for  this 
crop.  The  varieties  are  numerous,  and  the  pods 
of  some  are  large  and  abundantly  produced. 

Dwarf  French  Beans.— TheBe  may  now  be  sown 
at  intervals.  For  an  early  crop,  Ne  Plus  Ultra 
is  very  suitable,  and  Canadian  Wonder  is  a  good 
one  no  follow.  Select  a  warm  place  for  the  early 
sowings  and  a  good  open  position  for  the  main 
supplies.  A  sowing,  too,  of  the  Waxpod  Mont 
d'Or  should  be  made,  as  this  is  a  Bean  which 
should  be  more  extensively  grown. 

Sow    Kales,    Broccoli    and    Savoys    for    later 
planting.     Do  not  omit  Sutton's  Hardy  Sprouting 
Kale,  one  of  the  very  best  for  severe  winters. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viseount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Barnet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Plants  under  Glass. 
FoRtEii  Plants. — As  these  lose  their  attractive- 
ness it  is  often  difficult  at  this  season  to  find 
adequate  accommodation  for  them  under  glass. 
On  no  account  should  they  be  placed  outside  and 
exposed  to  cold  winds,  morning  frosts  or,  on  the 
other  hand,  bright  sunshine  until  the  growth 
gets  hardened  and  the  foliage  assumes  its  natural 
colour.  Bulbs  of  the  hardier  species  are  easily 
dealt  with,  as  a  covering  of  leaves,  litter  or 
evergreen  branches  at  critical  times  renders  these 
immune  from  injury.  Rhododendrons,  Lilacs, 
Deutzias  and  other  semi-hardy  plants  that,  since 
being  forced,  have  spent  a  week  or  two  in  a  cool 
house  may  be  transferred  from  there  to  pits 
or  even  an  improvised  shelter  of  some  kind  in  a 
cosy  nook.  Most  kinds  of  bulbs,  if  carefully 
hardened  off  so  that  the  foliage  dies  naturally, 
are  of  value  for  planting  in  the  open  ;  but  should 
the  entire  foliage  have  been  cut  with  the 
flowers,  as  is  often  convenient  to  do  in  the  case 
of  Tulips,  the  bulbs  may  be  consigned  to  the 
rubbish-heap  at  once. 

Calanthe  Vei/chii. — This  is  the  most  popular, 
and  withal  the  most  easily  grown,  of  this  useful 
winter-flowering  genus.  Plants  that  have  been 
kept  dry  for  some  time  will  shortly  show  signs 
of  growth,  when  repotting  should  be  done. 
Shake  all  the  old  material  from  the  bulbs  and 
discard  the  more  effete  of  these  unless  increase 
of  stock  is  imperative.  A  potting  mixture  of 
turfy  loam,  peat  and  sphagnum,  to  which  a  little 
dried  cow-manure  is  added,  answers  well. 
Charcoal,  crocks  and  sand  may  be  used  at  the 
discretion  of  the  cultivator,  or  even  leaf-mould 
may  be  substituted  for  peat.  Pots  well  drained 
are  necessary,  but  less  in  this  respect  than  in  the 
case  of  Orchids  in  general.  Place  one  or  more 
bulbs  in  each  pot  at  sufficient  depth  to  secure 
firmness,  and  slight  sprinklings  with  the  syringe 
will  suffice  until  thefoliageis  developed.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  ordinary  plant  stove  is  suitable. 

PoinseUias. — As  cuttings  are  produced  upon 
the  stock  plants,  propagation  may  be  proceeded 
with.  Secure  each  cutting  with  a  portion  of  the 
old  wood  attached  if  possible,  and  insert  around 
the  sides  of  small  pots  in  friable  compost  and 
plunge  in  a  brisk  heat. 

Pits  and  Frames. 
Violets  are  flowering  later  than  usual,  and  to 
preserve  the  colour  and  scent  of  the  blooms  a 
slight  shade  applied  during  the  brightest  part  of 
the  day  is  benetioial.  Planting  out  must  shortly 
be  done  ;  whether  runners  or  divisions  of  the 
old  plants  are  used  is  immaterial,  providing 
health  and  vigour  are  present.  It  is  obvious  that 
the  double  sorts  are  better  adapted  for  division 
than  the  single  kinds,  which  are  more  disposed 
to  produce  runners,  many  of  which  will  now  have 
emitted  roots  and  become  established  around  the 
parent  plants.  For  the  summer  quarters  a  dry, 
hot  site  should  be  avoided,  as  on  such  red  spider 
is  almost  sure  to  attack  the  plants.  Apart  from 
this,  the  necessity  for  shade  so  frequently  recom- 
mended is  of  little  consequence  in  Northern 
gardens,  a  fully  exposed  plot  being  good. 
Hardy  Fruit  Department. 
Fungoid  Diseases. — Apples  and  Pears,  both 
foliage  and  fruit,  are  apt  to  be  attacked  by  a 
fungus,  which  is  destructive  to  the  former  and  a 
great  disfigurement  to  the  latter.  As  a  preven- 
tive of  this,  Bordeaux  mixture  should  be  sprayed 
upon  the  trees  at  least  once  before  the  flowers 
open  and  several  times  after  the  fruit  is  set, 
according  to  the  virulence  of  the  attack,  using  a 
more  diluted  liquid  as  time  goes  on.  To  make 
this,  dissolve  41d.  of  sulphate  of  copper  and  the 
same  amount  of  fresh  lime  in  separate  vessels ; 
afterwards  add  together,  also  forty  gallons  of 
water  and  agitate  for  a  few  minutes,  when  it  will 
be  ready  for  use.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 
OaUmoay  House,  Qarlieston,  Wigtoumshire. 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Odonto<;lossum  Theodora. — This  is  a  very 
distinct-looking  flower,  and  is  the  result  of  a 
cross  between  Rossii  rubescens  and  triumphans. 
The  sepals  and  petals  are  of  medium  size,  the 
dull  sulphur  ground  colour  being  freely  and 
beautifully  marked  with  reddish  brown  blotches. 
The  labellum  is  comparatively  large  and  creamy 
white,  faintly  tinted  pink  in  colour,  with  a 
reddish  brown  blotch  and  a  small  yellow  one  at 
the  base.  The  column  is  conspicuous,  and  in 
colour  a  mixture  of  carmine,  reddish  brown  and 
cream.  Shown  by  deB.  Crawshay,Esq. ,Ro6efield, 
Sevenoaks.     First-class  certificate. 

Cattleya  Robert  de  WatTin. — This  is  a  large 
flower  of  delicate  colouring  that  is  most  difficult 
to  describe.  The  narrow  sepals  and  broad  petals 
are  of  a  delicate  old  rose  tint,  the  large  labellum 
being  of  the  same  hue  at  the  lower  end,  but 
rich  carmine  at  the  lip,  with  dull  scarlet  and 
rioh  yellow  markings  extending  into  the  throat. 
Shown  by  Lieutenant- Colonel  Holford,  CLE., 
C.  V.O.,  Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire. 
Award  of  merit. 

Odontoglossum  luochristiense  aureo-Julvum. — 
A  very  handsome,  bold  variety  of  a  beautiful 
Orchid,  and  fully  deserved  the  award  granted. 
The  flowers  are  of  splendid  shape  and  size,  the 
sepals  and  petals  being  a  very  rich  yellow,  with 
irregular  reddish  brown  patches  placed  thereon. 
The  margins  of  the  petals  are  also  somewhat 
toothed.  The  medium-sized  labellum  has  a 
margin  of  creamy  white,  the  ground  colour  of 
the  remainder  being  pale  canary  colour,  marked 
with  reddish  brown  blotches.  Shown  by  Sir 
Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart.,  K.C.V.O. ,  Burford, 
Dorking.     Award  of  merit. 

LiMo-Cattleya  Goldcrest. — This  is  a  pure,  very 
rich  golden  yellow  self,  the  flowers,  when 
clustered  together  as  they  were  in  the  specimen 
shown,  being  of  a  very  attractive  character. 
They  are  of  medium  size,  and  are  borne  in  a 
rather  densely  arranged  raceme  on  a  long,  stout 
stem.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford, 
CLE.,  C.V.O.     Award  of  merit. 

Epihi'Ua  Lionetii. — A  fine  bigenerio  hybrid 
obtained  by  crossing  Epidendrum  macrochilum 
rosea  with  Lselia  purpurata.  The  sepals  and 
petals  are  narrow  and  of  a  dull  purple  colour, 
the  labellum  being  comparatively  large  and  of  a 
rich  purple  hue,  this  shading  off  to  a  much 
lighter  colour  towards  the  edges.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  Cbarlesworth  and  Co. ,  Hay  ward's  Heath, 
Sussex.     Award  of  merit. 

Miltonia  bleuana  Sander's  variety. — Here  we 
have  a  large-flowered  and  vigorous  form  of  a 
well-known  Orchid.  The  labellum  is  exceedingly 
large  and  pure  white,  with  a  brownish  crimson 
blotch  at  the  base.  The  petals  have  the  usual 
faint  lilac  markings,  both  these  and  the  sepals 
being  larger  than  those  of  the  type.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans.  Award  of 
merit. 

Primula  Forrestii. — A  very  showy  species  from 
^'unnan,  where  the  plant  was  collected  on  lime- 
stone cliffs  at  an  altitude  of  9,(XM)  feet  to 
ll,0(Hlfeet.  The  fragrant  flowers  are  of  a  rich 
golden  yellow  colour,  produced  in  a  clustered 
umbel  on  stems  about  8  inches  or  9  inches  in 
height.  The  oblong  acuminate  leaves  are  some 
4  inches  in  length  and  nearly  2  inches  wide, 
supported  by  a  strong  petiole  some  5  inches  in 
length.  From  so  great  an  altitude  the  plant 
should  be  perfectly  hardy  in  British  gardens,  and 
has  indeed  already  proved  quite  hardy  in  Cheshire. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  blossoms  is  that 
of  a  pronounced  or  glorified  Oxlip,  but  the 
leafage  and  strong  fragrance  of  the  flowersare  very 
marked.  Shown  by  Bees,  Limited,  Mill  Street, 
Liverpool.     First-class  certificate. 

Bougainrillea  Rosa  Catalina. — This  remark- 
able and  handsome  novelty  was  received  from 
Las  Palmas,  Grand  Canary,  and  differs  from  all 
other  known  forms  by  the  rich  rose  pink  colour 
of  the  flowers.  The  plant  is  very  profuse 
flowering,  and  in  other  respects  is  not  unlike  the 


May  1,  1909.] 


THE     GAKDEN. 


219 


other  members  of  its  race.  The  colour  should 
be  very  good  for  decoration,  as  it  is  of  that  warm 
shade  of  pink  that  lights  up  so  well.  Shown  by- 
Major  Petre,  Westwick,  Norwich.  First-class 
certificate. 

Saxifraga  decipiens  hyirida  graiidiflora. — A 
bright  red-flowered  variety  of  a  well-known 
mossy  Saxifrage,  the  habit  of  the  plant  being 
not  unlike  the  free-growing  S.  caespitosa.  The 
large  flowers  are  of  a  arimson  shade,  the  stems 
and  buds  being  of  similar  colour.  It  is  the 
largest  of  the  coloured  Saxifrages  we  have  seen. 
Shown  by  Mr.  Kitley,  Bath.     Award  of  merit. 

Hippeastrum  Pinkie. — This  is  one  of  the  finest 
varieties  we  have  seen  and  is  perfect  in  form. 
The  ground  colour  is  white,  reticulated  with 
pink,  and  there  is  a  well-defined  midrib  of  pure 
white.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford, 
Westonbirt,  Gloucestershire.     Award  of  merit. 

Jiippeastrum  dracrhas. — A  flower  of  fine  form 
and  of  the  most  intense  crimson  shade  throughout. 
Probably  the  richest-flowered  variety  yet  seen. 
Shown  bj'  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons, 
Limited,  Chelsea.     Award  of  merit. 

The  following  alpine  Auriculas  were  shown  by 
Mr.  J.  Douglas,  Great  Bookham,  and  each  received 
jin  award  of  merit :  Robert  Bruce,  reddish  purple, 
shiding  to  lilac  ;  Claude  Halero,  maroon,  shaded 
reddish  bronze  ;  Admiration,  purple,  shading  to 
violet ;  and  UUeswater,  deep  purple  and  maroon, 
with  lighter  edge.  These  were  all  highly 
meritorious  varieties. 

Garnation  Lady  Coventry. — A  giant  red- 
flowered  Malmaison,  the  blooms  being  of  great 
depth,  size,  acd  richly  coloured  and  perfumed. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Sons,  High- 
gate.     Award  of  merit. 

Narciss^is  Queen  of  the  West. — A  giant  Ajax 
Daffodil  of  pure  lemon  yellow  tone,  the  huge 
trumpet  or  crown  being  of  a  somewhat  deeper 
shade  of  yellow.  The  plant  is  of  remarkable 
vigour  and  of  great  stature,  and  is  likely  to  become 
a  standard  variety  for  market  purnoses.  It  has 
already  this  year  given  proof  of  its  value  as  a 
forcing  variety,  and  has  been  greatly  admired. 
A  handsome  and  refined  Daffodil  of  much  excel- 
lence. Shown  by  Messrs.  Walter  T.  Ware, 
Limited,  Bath.     First-olass  certificate. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  20th  ult. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit 
tree,  shrub,  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.  C. 


Novelties  from  Cumberland. 
Messrs.  J.  Stormonth  and  Son,  Kirkbride, 
Cumberland,  send  us  flowers  of  the  beautiful 
Shortia  uniflora  grandiflora,  which  is  very 
charming,  and  two  double-flowered  Anemones. 
They  write  :  ' '  We  beg  to  contribute  to  your 
table  flowers  of  three  sterling  novelties.  The 
first  are  blooms  of  the  new  Shortia  uniflora 
grandiflora  from  Japan.  You  will  agree  that  it 
places  both  of  the  other  better-known  kinds  far 
in  the  shade  for  beauty  of  colouring,  its  blush 
pink  blossoms  presenting  a  contrast.  It  should 
do  well  where  the  others  succeed  in  moist  peat ; 
it  seems  a  robust  grower.  The  other  blooms  are 
double  forms  of  the  well-known  Anemones,  viz., 
apennina     and     ranunculoides,     and     are     real 


additions.  They  succeed  almost  anywhere,  and 
are  lovely  in  wild  gardens,  rookery  nooks  or  beds 
of  spring  flowers. " 

Anemones  from  Buckinghamshire. 
Mr.  E.  Teschemacher,  Lye  Green  Farm, 
Chesham,  Bucks,  sends  us  a  delightful  gathering 
of  Windflowers  or  Anemones,  which  deserve  to 
be  far  more  extensively  grown  than  they  are  at 
present.  He  writes:  "I  am  sending  you  five 
kinds  of  Anemones,  which  to-day  (April  19)  are 
very  beautiful  in  the  garden.  It  is  difficult  to  say 
why  these  early  Windflowers  are  not  of  tener  seen 
in  gardens,  for  they  are  quite  easy  to  grow  if 
some  attention  is  given  to  their  requirements. 
Blanda  (from  the  hills  of  Greece)  and  its  varieties 
will  flower  freely  in  ordinary  soil  if  given  a  sunny 
position.  It  has  been  in  bloom  for  the  last  six 
weeks,  and  at  the  time  of  writing  is  finer  than 
ever.  I  have  experimented  with  fulgens  for 
several  years,  and  have  found  that  it  needs  a 
sunny,  well-drained  place,  and  a  deep,  light  soil 
rich  in  humus.  Planting  should  be  done  early  in 
September,  and  the  young  foliage  and  buds  must 
be  covered  with  hand-lights  during  January  and 
February.  I  know  of  no  more  brilliant  flower. 
The  Apennine  Windflower  (A.  apennina)  will  grow 
anywhere  in  a  half -shady  situation.  I  have  it  at 
the  margin  of  a  little  wood,  where  it  carpets  the 
moist  ground  with  blue  every  spring.  Ranuncu- 
loides (the  yellow  Wood  Anemone)  does  not  seem 
to  be  a  common  plant  in  gardens,  yet  when 
thoroughly  established  in  a  shady  nook  it  is 
wonderfully  pretty.  Our  native  Windflower 
(nemorosa)  is  not  to  be  despised.  I  like  to  see  its 
white  stars  peeping  from  among  coloured  Prim- 
roses." 


BOOKS. 

Alpines  and  Bog  Plants.*— En- 
couraged by  the  kindliness  with  which  ' '  My 
Bock  Garden "  was  received,  Mr.  Farrer  has 
hastened  to  write  a  companion  volume,  "  to 
make,"  as  he  says  in  his  preface,  "timely  repara- 
tion, no  less  to  my  friends  who  read  than  to  my 
friends  who  are  written  of — to  the  countless 
omitted  beauties  of  my  garden  whom  I  had 
seemed  to  pass  over  in  an  ungrateful  silence." 
The  book  is  written  in  the  same  cheerful,  airy 
strain  as  its  predecessor,  and  is  just  as  packed 
with  information.  The  opening  chapters  are 
devoted  mainly  to  the  tinier  shrubs  for  use  in 
the  rock  garden,  and  enter  so  carefully  and 
minutely  into  what  to  have  and  what  not  to 
have,  and  to  their  suitable  placing,  that  they 
should  be  of  the  greatest  help  to  would-be  rock 
gardeners.  It  is  impossible  even  to  touch  upon 
the  interesting  features  from  chapter  to  chapter 
in  the  space  of  a  short  notice.  Mr.  Farrer  is 
still  as  refreshingly  vigorous  in  his  denunciation 
of  the  ugliness  of  various  plants,  and  one  may  be 
far  from  disagreeing  with  him  as  to  the  extreme 
plainness  of  many  plants,  and  yet  see  that  there 
may  be  minor  injustices,  such  as  to  bracket 
Groundsel  and  Dead  Nettle  together.  Surely 
Dead  Nettle  might  justly  resent  this  't  Not  the 
least  delightful  part  of  the  volume  are  the 
descriptions  of  treasure-hunting,  and  in  the 
chapter  headed  "A  Collecting  Day  above  Arolla," 
an  account  of  a  day  spent  with  M.  Correvon,  he 
indulges  in  some  vivid  word-painting  that  is 
absolutely  charming.  Here  is  his  description  of 
their  coming  on  the  haunts  of  one  of  the  House- 
leeks  :  "  Over  the  sun-trodden  slopes  of  grass 
the  mule-track  mounts  to  Arolla.  The  scant, 
brown  herbage  wavers  in  the  heat.  Little  lizards 
pant  in  ecstasy  on  the  burning  stones  of  the  low 
wall  that  skirts  the  cobbled  ascent.  A  hot 
fragrance  of  life  and  flowers  throbs  round  one  as 
one  goes,  and  from  each  burning  surface  of  rock 
rise  on  stiff,  sticky  stalks  the  rosy  star-clusters 
of  Sempervivum  araehuoideum." 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers,— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  tio  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  rnay 
he,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  Answers  to  Correspondents"  coliunn.  All  cominunica- 
tiois  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  loritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The. 
Gauden,  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London^ 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  se7it  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent^  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


*  "Alpines    and    Bog    Plants."       By  Reginald   Farrer. 
Published  by  Elward  Arnold,  London,  W.    7s.  6d.  net. 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Edgring'  to  a  hepbaceous  bopdep 

(Elizabeth).  —  Mossy  and  other  Saxifrages  and 
dozens  of  low-growing  alpine  plants  suitable  for 
edgings,  such  as  Thrift,  Arabis,  Aubrietia, 
Achillea  in  many  forms,  Pinks,  Harebell  and 
other  Campanulas,  Gentians,  Megaseas,  alpine 
Phloxes  and  similar  subjects  may  be  planted  at 
once,  and  by  so  doing  would  grow  into  tufts 
capable  of  .giving  good  flowers  during  the  spring 
of  1910.  The  Pinks  would  be  better  planted  in 
August,  selecting  freshly  rooted  young  plants. 
The  Gentian  may  be  planted  in  October,  and  the 
rest  now.  For  the  purposes  of  an  edging  the 
plants  should  be  reduced  to  small  pieces. 

Plants   fop   a  eity  g-apden  {If.  E. 

Woodward). — Yes,  there  is  hope  for  many  things, 
and  in  particular  such  as  Mignonette,  Tom 
Thumb  Nasturtiums  in  distinct  shades.  Candy- 
tuft, Dianthus,  Godetias,  Linum  grandiflorum, 
Shirley  and  other  Poppies,  Marguerite  Car- 
nations, annual  Chrysanthemums,  Malope 
grandiflora,  Nigella  Miss  .JekyU,  any  of  the 
Marigold  family  and  others.  Sweet  Peas  might 
also  prove  of  service  if  a  moderate  depth  of  soil 
exists,  and  in  such  circumstances  do  not  mind  a 
little  shade.  We  do  not  think  the  Edelweiss  is 
likely  to  prove  of  much  value,  though  it  might 
be  of  interest  in  the  driest  parts.  Such  very 
cheap  and  easily  grown  perennials  as  Alyssum, 
Aubrietia,  Iberis  and  any  of  the  mossy  Saxifrages 
should  prove  of  service.  In  the  sowing  of  the 
seeds  of  annuals,  do  not  make  the  common  mistake 
of  emptying  the  contents  of  a  packet  into  a  6-inch 
wide  saucer-shaped  hole  ;  in  this  way  the  seed- 
lings simply  smother  each  other.  An  ordinary 
packet  of  Shirley  Poppy  may  contain  a  few 
hundred  seeds,  and  these  thinly  sown  over  a 
6-feet  wide  bed  would  produce  thousands  of 
blossoms. 

Floweping  and  foliage  plants  fop 
Fedepated     Malay    States    (B.    G. 

Barnard).  —  In  addition  to  the  plants  you 
enumerate,  the  following  may  be  expected  to 
thrive  in  the  place  you  mention.  A  few  foliage 
plants  are  given  in  addition  to  those  which  are- 
valuable  from  a  floral  point  of  view  :  AUamanda 
grandiflora,  A.  neriifolia,  A.  Hendersoni,  A. 
violaeea,  Amasonia  ealycina,  Amherstia  nobilis, 
Aphelandra  aurantiaca,  A.  tetragona,  A.  velu- 
tina,  Aralia  elegantissima,  A.  Veitchii,  Araujia 
grandiflora,  Aristolochia  elegans,  A.  gigas 
Sturtevantii,  Bauhinia  grandiflora.  Begonias  in 
variety,  Bertolonia  houtteana,  B.  marmorata, 
Bignonia  buccinatoria,  B.  capreolata,  B.  venusta, 
Bougainvillea  glabra  and  variety  sanderiana, 
B.  spectabilis,  Brownea  ooccinea,  B.  Crawfordii, 
B.  grandiceps,  Brunfelsia  ealycina,  B.  latifolia, 
Buddleia  madagaseariensis,  Cfesalpinia  pulcher- 
rima,  Calodendron  oapensis,  Camoensia  maxima, 
Carapa  guianensis.  Cassia  corymbosa,  Cestrum 
aurantiacum,  Crotons — or  Codiseums,  as  they  are 
seientically  called  —  any  garden  varieties, 
Clavija  macrophylla,  Clusia  flava,  C.  rosea, 
Coccoloba  grandifolia,   Coleus    thyrsoideus  and 


220 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  1,  1909. 


any  garden  varieties  of  C.  Blumei,  Combretum 
grandiflorum,  C.  purpureum,  Datura  arborea, 
D.  sanguinea,  D.  auaveolens,  D.  ohlorantha, 
Eranthemum  albiflorum,  E.  Andereonii,  E. 
cinnabarinum,  Erythrina  Cristagalli,  Euadenia 
emineus,  Eugenia  Jambos,  E.  cauliflora,  Eu- 
phorbia pulcherrima,  Franooa  ramosa,  Gardenia 
florida  and  varieties,  G.  Thunbergia,  G.  Roth- 
imannia,  Gesnera  cardinalis  and  other  species, 
Gloxinias,  Gtuthia  floribunda,  HofiFmannia 
•Ghiesbreghtii,  Hoya  oarnosa,  H.  imperialis  and 
others,  Ipomrea  rubro-eserulea,  I.  Bona-nox  and 
others,  Jasminum  Sambac,  Lagerstrtemia  indica, 
Manettia  luteo-rubra,  Momordica  coehinohi- 
nenais,  M.  Charantia,  Napoleona  imperialis, 
Victoria  Regia,  Ochna  multifiora,  Passiflora 
raoemosa,  P.  edulis,  P.  quadrangularis,  Pepero- 
mia  in  variety,  Plumeria  alba,  P.  bioolor,  P. 
lutea,  P.  rubra,  Pogonopus  oaraoasensis,  Poso- 
queria  macropus,  Kandia  maerantha,  R.  stanley- 
-ana,  Sterculias  in  variety,  Strobilanthes  dyeri- 
anus,  Anthurium  andreanum  and  varieties,  A. 
cristallinum,  A.  grandifolium,  A.  seherzerianum 
and  various  varieties,  A.  Veitehii  and  many 
other  sorts,  Bomarea  Carderi,  B.  edulis,  B. 
multifiora,  B.  pataoocensis,  Crinum  angustum, 
C.  Kirkii,  C.  erubescens,  C.  purpurascens, 
Eucharis  grandiflora,  E.  Candida,  Dracrena 
fragrans  var.  Lindeni,  D.  goldieana,  D.  sanderi- 
ana,  D.  godselfiana  and  all  the  garden  Draesenas, 
Marantas  in  variety,  Philodendrons  in  variety, 
Bromelias  and  many  other  tropical  things  which 
you  might  experiment  witli.  Mr.  J.  W.  Camp- 
bell, the  Superintendent  of  the  Government 
Gardens  and  Plantations,  Perak  (Taiping), 
would  probably  be  able  to  give  you  expert 
advice  on  the  subject ;  he  is  an  old  Kew  man 
and  of  a  courteous  nature. 

Appangement  of  bed  (Hilda).— You  have  set  us 
a  rather  difficult  task,  inasmuch  as  the  Roses  on  the 
lence,  by  reason  of  their  height,  will  catch  and  dominate 
the  vision  unless  you  employ  a  rather  tall  plant  as  a 
foil.  The  most  suitable  subjects  are  variegated  Maize  or 
Eulalia  in  the  background.  Unfortunately,  you  have  a 
preponderance  of  red  in  the  Begonias,  and  we  can  clearlysee 
the  inharmonious  effect  produced.  Had  it  been  possible 
to  have  planted  white-flowered  Begonias  there  some  im- 
provement might  have  resulted.  In  the  circumstances, 
"we  think  you  cannot  do  better  than  obtain  seedlings  of 
the  Maize  to  plant  behind  the  Begonias. 

■Watep  Lilies  (.1.  (r.). — A  good  coloured  variety  is 
NyniphEea  Marliacea  tlammea  or  N.  Laydekerii  rosea,  and 
a  good  pink  one  is  X.  ilarliacea  carnea.  The  Arum  Lilies 
might  do  quite  well  if  sunk  in  not  less  than  2  feet  of  water, 
30  as  to  be  out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  Success  in  these 
things  often  depends  much  upon  the  quality  of  the  water. 
A  very  good  and  reliable  plant  is  the  double  Arrowhead 
,<9agittaria  japonica  fiore-pleno).  If  the  weed  patches  on 
the  lawn  are  of  large  size,  some  of  the  old  soil  would 
be  better  removed  and  a  little  fresh  added  ;  indeed,  in 
almost  any  case  this  is  desirable,  as  the  weeds  may 
have  seeded  there,  and  will  be  in  evidence  again  unless 
«tep8  are  taken  to  prevent  their  reappearance.  Sow  the 
seeds  at  once. 


the  tubs  and  use  a  good  coarse  compost  of  two 
parts  fibrous  loam  and  half  a  part  of  mortar 
rubble  and  sandstone,  with  half  a  peck  of  half- 
inch  bones  to  two  bushels  of  soil.  During  the 
operation  remove  as  much  old  soil  as  you  can 
before  retubbing.  Should  the  soil  appear  to  be 
full  of  worms,  water  the  plants  two  or  three 
times  with  soot-water  previous  to  undertaking 
the  work.  In  dry  weather  you  may  keep  on 
syringing  the  plants  overhead  until  the  young 
shoots  are  1  inch  or  2  inches  long.  In  the  event  of 
the  leaves  becoming  dirty  at  any  future  time,  you 
can  have  recourse  to  the  wash  as  advised  above. 
Destpoying  tree  stumps  (0.  H.).— 

It  is  not  possible  to  say  why  you  have  failed  in 
getting  your  tree  stumps  to  burn.  You  have 
evidently  proceeded  in  the  right  way.  You 
might  try  a  wider  and  deeper  hole,  with  more 
saltpetre.  Occasionally  tree  stumps  that  prove 
difficult  can  be  burned  by  making  a  second  hole 
at  right  angles  with  the  other  to  meet  it  at  the 
bottom  ;  this  acts  as  a  flue.  If  you  cannot 
succeed  with  the  saltpetre,  there  is  nothing  for  it 
but  to  grub  the  stumps  out  of  the  ground,  dry 
them  for  a  little  while  and  burn  them,  either 
whole  or  blow  them  to  pieces  with  gunpowder  or 
some  other  explosive. 

Laupel  leaves  tupnlng  yellows  (C.  A.  Seeem). 
It  is  impossible  to  say  with  any  degree  of  certainty  what 
the  reason  is  for  your  Laurel  leaves  on  a  few  branches  turn- 
ing yellow  without  more  knowledge  of  the  conditions 
under  which  your  plant  is  growing.  It  is  quite  natural  for 
fully  developed  Laurels  to  lose  a  branch  or  two  occasionally, 
but  the  gaps  are  usually  tilled  up  during  the  first  season. 
We  advise  you  to  give  the  plant  a  top-dressing  of  4  inches 
of  good  well-rotted  farmyard  manure  at  once.  If  the 
plant  seems  at  all  dry  at  the  roots,  a  good  watering  might 
be  given  with  good  results. 


TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 
Bays  in  tubs  groing:  wrong  {A.  H. 

■Rydoii). — From  what  you  say  of  your  Bays,  a 
good  thinning  out  of  the  weakest  wood  and 
cutting  back  of  the  branches  would  do  them 
good,  after  which  a  thorough  wash  over  would 
improve  them.  The  pruning  ought  to  be  done 
immediately,  and  do  not  be  afraid  to  thin  out 
poor  wood.  After  the  pruning  lay  the  plants 
down  and  syringe  them  well  with  a  mixture 
composed  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  soft  soap,  a 
pint  of  paraffin  and  six  gallons  of  water.  The 
soft  soap  should  be  dissolved  in  a  little  hot 
water  and  the  paraffin  thoroughly  mixed  with 
it,  after  which  it  should  be  sprayed  through  a 
fine-rosed  syringe  into  the  water.  While  the 
syringing  is  being  done  turn  the  plants  occasion- 
ally to  thoroughly  wet  each  part.  After  the 
mixture  has  been  on  a  little  while,  hose  the 
plants  over,  and  a  lot  of  the  dirt  will  oonie  off. 
The  wash  may  be  repeated  in  six  days'  time. 
•Should  the  weather  prove  dry  after  the  pruning, 
a  good  syringing  overhead  two  or  three  times  a 
-day  for  a  few  weeks  will  do  good.  Three  weeks 
after  the  pruning,  when  signs  of  new  growth 
tegin  to  appear,  retub  the  plants.     Well  drain 


some  of  its  leaves  at  this  season,  but  the  large 
blotches  thereon  are  caused  by  some  fault  in 
culture  ;  we  should  say  from  too  much  heat  and 
too  much  moisture  in  the  atmosphere.  Your 
better  plan  will  be  to  sponge  the  leaves  of  all 
your  plants  with  a  lather  of  soft  soap  and  warm 
water,  taking  care  at  the  same  time  to  remove 
every  scale.  This  may  be  done  with  a  piece  of 
pointed  stick,  and  if  carefully  carried  out  the 
leaf  will  not  be  injured  in  any  way.  Of  course, 
the  sponging  will  remove  many  of  these  pests, 
but  the  remainder  must  be  taken  off  with  the 
pointed  stick.  The  Calanthes,  too,  undoubtedly 
suffered  from  an  excess  of  heat  and  moisture.  A 
careful  perusal  of  the  First  Prize  Essay  on  "  The 
Six  Most  Popular  Orchids  and  How  to  Grow 
Them,"  which  was  published  in  The  Garden  for 
April  17th,  would  be  of  great  service  to  you. 

Hyacinths  faillngr  (•S'^  Darida). — There  are  several 
causes  that  may  have  contributed  to  the  failure  of  your 
Hyacinths,  audit  isdilticult — in  fact,  well-nigh  impossible — 
to  state  any  definite  one,  especially  as  not  a  word  is  said 
as  to  the  treatment  the  plants  have  received.  We  think 
that  the  main  cause  is  the  want  of  good  healthy  roots, 
caused  principally  by  improper  treatment  during  their 
earlier  stages. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Fpau  Kapl  Dpuschki  with  split 
bapic  (Druschki). — This  popular  Rose  has  many 
peculiarities,  and  where  one  individual  can  grow 
it  to  perfection,  another  has  considerable  difficulty 
in  obtaining  a  respectable  bloom  at  all.  We  have 
found  that  it  dislikes  the  Manetti  stock.  It 
makes  enormous  thick  growths  on  this  stock  ; 
but  if  examined  the  plants  show  signs  of  disease 
before  they  leave  the  nursery,  and  although  they 
may  linger  for  some  time,  they  eventually  die. 
Plants  on  the  Briar  stock  we  have  had  mostsueeess 
with,  and  the  seedling  Briar  best  of  all,  while  in 
standards  it  is  an  ideal  Rose  with  us.  We  think, 
in  your  case,  the  injured  wood  is  the  result  of 
too  much  chemical  manure.  Guano,  bone-meal 
and  kainit  are  good  servants  when  used  in 
moderation,  but  they  are  bad  masters,  and  we 
should  say,  if  you  examined  the  roots,  you 
would  fiud  them  anything  but  a  healthy  white. 
In  future  try  this  Rose  in  a  special  bed  of  good, 
sweet,  loamy  soil,  enriched  only  by  good  farm- 
yard manure.  Prune  the  plants  fairly  hard,  and 
those  very  strong,  thick  growths  cut  down  to 
1  inch  or  so  of  their  base  ;  if  you  do  this  you  will 
probably  have  success.  Put  in  some  cuttings 
next  October,  for  this  Rose  strikes  freely  and 
succeeds  admirably  on  its  own  roots  ;  but  be 
careful  to  select  healthy  growths. 

Rose  Veluwezoone  {E.  Thomason). — We  cannot 
give  you  the  address  of  Baron  von  Pallandt.  There  is  a 
Hose  bearing  his  name,  and  we  believe  you  could  obtain 
the  address  desired  through  Mr.  T.  Boehm,  Obercassel 
b.  Bonn,  Germany. 

THE    GREENHOUSE, 

Qpchids  in  bad  condition  (F.  J.  S.). 

Several  causes  have  played  a  part  in  bringing 
your  Orchids  into  the  condition  in  which  they 
now  are.  In  the  first  place  they  have  been  kept 
much  too  warm,  for  a  temperature  of  55°  by 
night,  rising  about  10°  by  day,  would  be  sufficient. 
Of  course,  now  that  the  weather  is  getting  warmar, 
the  night  temperature  may  be  somewhat  higher. 
Next,  some  of  the  enclosed  leaves  are  very  badly 
infested  with  scale,  which  injure  the  surface  of 
the  leaf  and  cause  the  smaller  spots  complained 
of.  In  addition  there  are  traces  of  other  insect 
pests.      The   Dendrobium  would   naturally   lose 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Blaclc   fly  on  Peacli  tpees  {E.  N. 

Orays). — Black  fly  is  one  of  the  most  difficult 
pests  to  eradicate  by  fumigation.  To  apply 
fumes  of  the  compound  mentioned  strong  enough 
to  kill  the  fly  to  trees  in  the  condition  of  tender 
growth  of  foliage  and  fruit  such  as  yours  are 
in  would  be  running  a  dangerous  risk  of  doing 
serious  injury  to  your  trees  and  crop.  This  fly 
generally  attacks  the  upper  points  of  the  young 
shoots,  causing  the  leaves  to  curl  up  and  making 
the  effective  application  of  any  insecticide  most 
difficult.  The  best  plan  to  adopt  in  such  cases  is, 
we  think,  to  untie  the  affected  shoots  and  steep 
them  for  a  couple  of  minutes  in  a  saucer  or  some 
other  convenient  vessel  containing  a  strong 
solution  of  Tobacco  juice.  This,  if  it  comes  in 
contact  with  the  fly,  will  kill  it,  and  will  not  hurt 
the  shoots.  Should  the  tips  of  the  shoots  be  very 
badly  affected,  the  best  way  will  be  to  out  oS'  the 
affected  parts  and  burn  them.  The  short  side 
growths  or  spurs  are  also  sometimes  affected.  The 
only  way  of  ridding  these  is  by  carefully  syringing 
with  Tobacco  water,  using  sufficient  force  to  dis- 
lodge the  fly.  The  trees  must  be  closely  watched 
for  some  time  afterwards,  and  if  any  more  fly  is 
seen  the  treatment  should  be  repeated. 

Black  Hambupgh  Vine  bleeding'  lOrape 
Vine), — You  should  have  pruned  your  Vine  (growing  on 
your  wall  out  of  doors)  early  in  the  winter,  say,  about  the 
middle  of  November ;  it  would  not  then  have  bled.  You  will 
find  that  immediately  the  Vine  breaks  out  into  growth  the 
bleeding  will  cease,  the  growth  absorbing  into  itself  all  the 
sap.    You  may  then  remove  the  bandages. 

Ppunlng  a  pot  Vine  (IT.  Frank).— The  proper 
course  to  pursuewith  your  Vine  in  order  to  compel  it  to  bear 
fruit  another  year,  would  be  to  turn  it  out  of  its  pot  and 
reduce  its  bole  of  soil  and  roots  by  2^  inches  all  round.  Never 
mind  cutting  away  some  roots  in  order  to  secure  this 
reduction.  The  Vine  should  then  be  replanted  in  the  same 
sized  pot  (washed  and  properly  drained)  in  good  turfy 
loam,  adding  half  a  pint  of  bone-meal  and  the  same  of 
lime  to  every  peck  of  turfy  soil.  In  filling  in  the  space  in 
the  pot  round  the  roots  the  soil  should  be  rammed  as  hard 
as  possible.  The  next  thing  to  do  after  finishing  the 
pottiBg  will  be  to  prune  the  Vine.  This  should  be  done 
by  cutting  the  old  thin  shoots  (B  and  C)  to  within  a  foot  of 
their  base,  placing  the  Vine  afterwards  in  a  cold  house 
where  it  is  protected  from  too  much  rain  and  frost.  About 
the  middle  of  next  March  it  should  be  introduced  into  a 
vinery  or  some  other  glass-house  with  a  temperature  during 
the  day  of  (iO"  Fahr.,  falling  to  60"  at  night,  gradually 
increasing  the  temperature  both  night  and  day  as  the  days 
lengthen.  Young,  vigorous  roots  would  soon  form  in  the 
new  soil  and  new  shoots  emanate  from  the  old  branches, 
which  the  following  year  should  produce  a  few  bunches  of 
Grapes,  and  more  every  year  afterwards  as  long  as  the  Vine 
remains  in  robxist  health.  Treatment  such  as  that  de- 
scribed can  only  be  carried  out  by  a  gardener  who  knows 
something  about  the  work  and  has  the  necessary  glass- 
house convenience  for  carrying  it  out.  Have  you  not  a 
capable  gardener  in  yoiu*  district  to  whom  you  could 
entrust  the  work  ?  With  the  accommodation  of  the  porch 
alone,  all  you  can  safely  do  is  to  take  otf  the  surface  soil 
for  2  inches  or  3  inches  down  and  replace  it  by  the  same 
depth  of  the  new  soil  already  described,  ramming  it  down 
quite  hard.  As  regards  pruning,  it  is  only  safe  for  you  to 
prune  the  shoots  of  the  previous  year's  growth,  and  these 
I  should  be  cut  to  within  two  buds  of  their  base. 


GARDEN. 


-y^=^^^ 


No.  1955.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


May  8,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


Tee    WAr   to    Grow 
Asparagus       . .    . . 
Prizes  for  Keaders 
Notes  of  thb  Week 
coebkspohdeiioe 
A  National  Vegetable 
Society  and   Exhi- 
bition       

Artificial  manures  . . 
Swede  Turnip  Greens 
A  note  on    window- 
boxes       

ilT.  Robert  Sydenham 
New    Daffodils    at 
Birmingham      . .     . . 
Frott  Garden 
How   to   grow 
trees  in  pots  . .     . . 
Flower  Garden 
Sweet  Pea  chat 
Brooms  for  the  rock 

garden     

Daffodils  in  grass     . . 
Greenhouse 
The  small  greenhouse 
for    pleasure    and 

profit       

Summer  treatment 
of  winter-flowering 
hard  -  wooded 
plants      


223 
223 
223 

223 
224 


fruit 


Coloured  Plate 
Carnation   Queen   of 

Spain       

Kitchen  Garden 
How     to     grow 
Tomatoes  outdoors 
Rose  Garden 
Rose  White  Killamey    229 
Rose  Paradise  . .     . .     229 
Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 230 

Planting  Sweet  Peas      230 
Salient    points    in 
Cucumber  culture      231 
The  Town  Garden  ..    231 
Gabdehihg  of  the  Week 
For  the    South   and 

South  Midlands    . .     232 
For  the  North    and 
North  Midlands  . .    232 
Answers     to     Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Rose  garden 
Fruit  garden     . . 

Greenhouse 233 

Kitchen  garden       . .    234 
Miscellaneous  . .     . .    234 


228 


22S 


232 


233 
233 


2-28    Societies 


235 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

ilr.  Robert  Sydenham 224 

A  portion  of  the  Daffodil  show  at  Birmingham  . .     . .    226 

Narcissus  Telamonius  plenus     227 

Cytisus  kewensis  in  the  rock  garden  at  Kew       . .     . .    22S 

Carnation  Queen  of  Spain Coloured  plate 

The  new  Rose  White  Killamey 229 

Planting  Sweet  Peas      ..     230,231 


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Offlees:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C, 


THE      WAY     TO      GROW 
ASPARAGUS. 

ANY  questions  have  been  asked 
recently  as  to  the  best  way  to 
grow  Asparagus,  and  we  are  glad 
to  know  that  there  is  an  increasing 
desire  to  obtain  good  vegetables  in 
this  country.  The  want  is  one  of  variety,  and 
we  see  no  reason  why  Asparagus — a  delicious, 
wholesome  vegetable — should  not  be  as  easily 
obtained  as  the  too-often  evil-smelUng  Cauli- 
flower. The  following  notes  have  been  written 
by  Mr.  G.  Wythes,  who  for  many  years  was 
gardener  to  the  Duke  of  Northumberland  at  Syon 
House,  Brentford.  The  Asparagus  beds  there 
are,  one  may  say,  historic,  and  it  is  for  this 
reason  we  publish  these  notes  : 

Asparagus 
grown  in  the  ordinary  way  is  in  season  from 
April  to  the  end  of  June  ;  but  with  very  small 
cost  after  the  initial  stages  good  material  maj' 
be  secured  at  an  earlier  date,  when  there  are 
none  too  many  good  vegetables  to  select  from. 
Where  there  is  a  good  loamy  soil,  and  with 
helping  materials  at  command,  excellent  Aspara- 
gus may  be  grown  at  a  small  cost.  Only  last 
season  I  saw  splendid  Asparagus  grown  in  fields  ; 
the  plants  being  given  ample  room  and  manured 
yearly  gave  no  further  trouble.  The  question 
often  comes  to  my  mind,  Do  we  not  coddle  the 
plant  too  much  in  our  small  gardens  ?  The 
ordinary  system  of  forcing  is  even  more  costly 
than  in  the  case  of  many  ordinary  vegetables, 
as  the  plants  must  be  at  least  three  years  old 
before  they  are  forced,  and  onoe  this  is  done — I 
mean  by  lifting  the  roots  in  the  usual  way  and 
growing  them  in  heat — they  are  worthless. 
Many  growers  cannot  do  this,  and  I  would 
advise  forcing  permanent  beds.  I  saw  this 
culture  commented  upon  recently,  and  the  terra 
"planting  in  hot-beds"  was  used.  I  would 
explain  that  is  when  the  plants  are  lifted ; 
doubtless  what  was  meant  was  forcing  per- 
manent beds  with  manure.  When  this  is  done 
the  beds  last  many  years  and  they  force  readily 
every  season. 

Another  point  was  that  early  kinds  should  be 
grown ;  but  with  regard  to  these  there  is  not 
much  difference — indeed,  Asparagus  varieties  are 
few  in  number.  I  have  grown  the  Colossal  by 
the  side  of  the  Argenteuil  and  can  see  no 
dilierence  ;  the  Erfurt  Giant  is  one  of  the  large 
kinds,  but  not  so  early  as  Argenteuil,  and  the 
Palmetto,  an  American  introduction,  is  a  bright 
green  variety,  distinct  and  also  a  free  grower. 
Those  who  prefer  a  large  kind  should  give  the 
Giant  French  a  trial ;  this  is  much  grown  in 
the  market  gardens  of  Paris  and  is  a  splendid 


garden  variety.  Of  course,  much  depends^upon 
the  culture.  Asparagus  does  not  like  a  very  wet 
soil  or  stiff  clay,  so  that  when  beds  are  made  it  is 
well  to  add  such  soil  as  the  plants  like ;  for 
instance,  a  heavy  soil  is  much  improved  by  adding 
liberal  quantities  of  lighter  material,  such  as 
burnt  refuse,  old  fine  mortar  rubble,  leaf-mould  or 
spent  manure ;  this  especially  refers  to  the 
surface  soil,  as  this  must  be  light  when  the  seed 
is  sown,  and  even  when  roots  are  planted  a 
generous  top  soil  gives  the  best  results. 

The  Formation  of  the  Beds. 
I  am  considering  now  the  beds  to  be  forced  to 
give  the  supply  at  the  time  named,  and  for  those 
that  are  to  be  forced  there  must  be  a  good  depth 
and  space  between  each  bed,  which  should  be 
3  feet  wide  and  deep.  The  beds  are  formed  with 
a  single  -ti-inoh  wall,  pigeon-holed.  This  is  the 
retaining  wall  between  the  beds ;  the  end 
walls  are  9  inch,  but  solid.  I  advise  that  they 
be  built  at  least  IS  inches  to  2  feet  above  the 
ground  level.  The  beds,  as  regards  length  and 
numbers,  can  be  made  to  suit  the  grower's  con- 
venience, but  they  must  not  be  too  wide,  as  three 
rows  of  plants  are  sufficient.  To  get  this,  4  feet 
to  5  feet  must  not  be  exceeded.  This  may  be 
somewhat  close,  but  the  beds,  if  too  wide,  do  not 
get  sufficient  warmth  in  the  centre  from  the 
heating  material.  They  are  quite  solid  under- 
neath ;  I  have  found  that  when  they  were  at  all 
hollow  the  plants  were  less  satisfactory,  as  they 
got  so  dry  in  the  early  summer,  at  a  time  of  year 
when  the  crowns  were  forming  for  another 
season's  forcing.  By  this  I  mean  the  beds  are  filled 
in  when  the  walls  are  firm;  rough  turf  or  sif  tings 
from  the  burnt  refuse  makes  good  drainage. 
Good  loam  is  preferable,  well  enriched  with 
manure  ;  the  plant  revels  in  a  sandy  loam  with 
abundance  of  food,  and  it  should  be  remembered 
that  the  beds,  with  merely  rich  top-dressings, 

Wiix  Last  for  Many  Years. 
The  work  should  be  well  done  at  the  start.  In 
suitable  land  it  may  not  be  necessary  to  take  out 
the  soil,  but  to  build  the  walls,  removing  the 
soil  between  the  beds  to  the  depth  required,  and 
when  the  walls  are  set  to  trench  the  beds  and 
incorporate  a  good  quantity  of  decayed  manure 
as  the  trenching  proceeds.  The  work  is  best 
done  some  time  in  advance  of  planting,  as  it  then 
becomes  settled  down.     As  regards 

The  Planting, 
I  prefer  two  year  old  plants,  but  these  must 
not  be  forced  the  first  year.  Allow  a  full 
season's  growth,  only  a  light  crop  being  taken 
the  second  season,  but  afterwards  the  plants  will 
force  readily  and  give  a  regular  supply.  The 
warmth  is  obtained  as  follows  :  Liberal  quantities 
of   fresh  tree  leaves  are  collected  in  November 


-79-> 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  8,  1909. 


and  December  and  placed  in  bulk  ;  to  this  is 
added  the  same  quantity  of  manure,  and  this 
is  placed  in  the  trenches  late  in  December. 
Each  layer  of  material  is  well  trodden  or  rammed 
to  the  top  of  the  brickwork,  and  as  this  sinks  it  is 
made  up  of  fresh  material,  over  the  top  of  which 
long  strawy  litter  is  placed  to  throw  ofFheavy  rains 
or  snow.  The  beds  are  also  covered  with  some 
short,  warm  litter  when  they  are  ready.  I  mean 
the  heating  material  should  be  in  position,  and 
the  beds  will  give  supplies  in  a  month  or  six 
weeks  from  the  making  up ;  but  in  severe  weather 
it  is  well  to  give  them  more  cover  in  the  shape 
of  long  litter.  Each  autumn  the  old  heating 
material  is  taken  out,  as  this  makes  an  excellent 
top-dressing  for  most  things,  and  is  of  great 
value  in  the  garden.  During  the  summer  the 
beds  are  helped  in  the  shape  of  liquid  manure, 
also,  in  rainy  weather,  food  in  the  shape  of  rich 
fertilisers. 

When  the  cutting  ceases  give  a  top-dressing 
of  rich  manure ;  this  will  be  at  the  end  of 
April,  when  the  ordinary  open-ground  beds  will 
give  the  supply.  I  have  seen  beds  forced  with  hot 
water  in  pipes  in  hollow  chambers,  but  I  prefer 
the  above,  as  there  is  a  moist  gentle  heat  and  tlie 
roots  each  year  come  freely  through  the  pigeon- 
holed wall  and  get  a  lot  of  assistance  from  the 
heating  materials  ;  these  when  taken  out  are  a 
mass  of  fibre. 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

May  18. — Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers,  Fruit  and  Vegetables,  1  p  m. 
to  6  p.m.  Lecture  at  3  p.m.,  by  Mr.  A.  Glutton 
Brock,  on  "Alpines  in  Their  Native  Homes." 
Tulip  Society's  Show.  Royal  Horticultural  Hall, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 

May  25.  ^Roy al  Horticultural  Society.  Great 
Spring  Show,  Inner  Temple  Gardens,  Thames 
Embankment,  12  noon  to  7  p.m.  Admis- 
sion lOs. 

May  26. — Great  Spring  Show,  Inner  Temple 
Gardens.  Private  view  to  Fellows  only, 
7  a. m.  to  noon;  public,  noon  to  7  p.m.  Admis- 
sion 23.  6d. 

May  27. — Great  Spring  Show,  Inner  Temple 
Gardens,  9  a.m.  to  ti  p.m.     Admission  Is. 


Flower  show  for  oup  Readers.— 

We  wish  to  impress  upon  all  our  readers  the 
importance  of  collecting  the  coupons  which  are 
appearing  in  these  pages  week  by  week.  The 
show,  judging  by  letters  received,  will  be  a  big 
success  and  the  honour  of  winning  the  prizes  and 
medals  no  small  one.  We  rely  on  our  readers  to 
make  the  exhibition  one  of  the  best  in  the  country, 
and  we  hope  as  many  as  can  do  so  will  exhibit 
either  flowers,  fruits  or  vegetables,  or  all  of  them. 
For  the  benefit  of  new  readers  we  draw  their 
attention  to  the  schedule  which  appears  among 
our  advertisement  pages,  and  wherein  particulars 
of  the  show  are  given.  We  trust  that  all  who 
intend  to  exhibit  will  carefully  observe  the 
schedule,  as  this  will  make  matters  much  easier 
for  our  staff.  The  names  of  the  judges  will  be 
announced  in  due  course.  Remember  that  £100 
in  prizes  and  a  gold  medal  and  silver  medals  are 
ofTered. 

The  proposed  vegretable  society. 

I  am  fully  at  one  with  the  writers  in  The 
Garden  who  have  urged  that  there  is  abundant 
scope  for  a  National  Vegetable  Society,  and  I 
have  relished  particularly  the  vigorous  remarks 
of  "A.  D."  It  does  seem  strange  that  with 
numerous  special  floral  societies  there  should  be 
none  for  vegetables.  The  diflBoulty  of  the 
position  arises  from  the  very  perfunctory 
interest  taken  in  vegetables  by  the  great  mass  of 
amateurs.  They  will  crowd  in  their  thousands 
to   Rose,    Sweet  Pea,   Carnation    and    Daffodil 


shows,  but  will  hardly  look  at  vegetables.  I 
have  particularly  noted  the  attitude  of  the 
public  at  great  shows  like  the  Temple  and 
Shrewsbury  ;  the  people  almost  suffocate  each 
other  in  the  flower  tents,  but  practically  leave 
the  magnificent  displays  of  vegetables  to  pro- 
fessional gardeners.  In  these  circumstances  a 
National  Vegetable  Society  could  not  look  for  a 
great  income  from  a  show  ;  in  fact,  would  pro- 
bably lose  money  on  its  exhibitions.  Its  income 
would  have  to  come,  therefore,  from  members' 
subscriptions  and  trade  contributions.  Would 
they  suffice  ?  I  must  confess  to  doubts.  How- 
ever, the  matter  is  well  worthy  of  discussion, 
and  if  a  meeting  could  be  arranged  at  Temple 
Show  time  I  would  attend  gladly.  Mr.  Edwin 
Beckett,  V.M.H.,  Mr.  Owen  Thomas,  V.M.H. 
and  other  prominent  growers  might  be  asked 
to  take  the  lead  perhaps.  The  attitude  of  the 
trade  would  be  an  important  factor.  What  are 
their  views  'i — Walter  P.  Wrioht.  [See  also 
"  Correspondence."] 
Chester  Paxton  Society's  annual 

exhibition  of  fruits  and  Chrysanthemums 
will  take  place  in  the  Town  Hall,  Chester,  on 
November  17  and  18  next. 

Four  Oalcs  KnapsacI^  Sprayer. 

At  the  great  demonstration  of  spraying  machines 
held  at  Wisbech  on  the  22nd  ult. ,  when  all  the 
leading  makers  of  machines  competed,  both 
English  and  foreign,  the  Four  Oaks  Knapsack 
Sprayer  was  awarded  the  first  prize,  viz.,  a 
silver-gilt  medal, 
British  Gardeners'  Association. 

The  next  meeting  of  the  London  branch  will 
take  place  on  Thursday,  May  13,  at  Carr's 
Restaurant  (Charles  Dickens'  Room),  Strand, 
next  to  the  Law  Courts.  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes  will 
take  the  chair  at  8  15  p.m.,  when  Professor 
W.  B.  Bottomley,  M.A.,  of  King's  College  will 
give  a  lecture,  illustrated  by  lantern  slides,  on 
"Nitrogen  Fixation  in  Plants."  Many  of  the 
leading  horticulturists  are  expected  to  be 
present.  Professional  gardeners  interested  in 
the  subject  should  take  advantage  of  this 
opportunity. 

Hunting-donshire  Spring  Flower 

Society. — The  fourth  show  of  the  above 
society  was  held  at  Huntingdon  on  Tuesday, 
April  27,  when  there  was  a  record  attendance  and 
entry.  Messrs.  Barr's  Daffodil  Cup  was  won  by 
Mr.  R.  R.  Darling,  Potter's  Bar,  Mr.  J.  Cator, 
Woodbastwick,  being  second  and  Miss  Linton, 
Buckden,  third.  Some  splendid  trade  exhibits 
included  Messrs.  Barr,  Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath, 
Limited,  and  Messrs  Pearson,  Lowdham,  with 
Diff  )dils  ;  Mr.  J.  Mallender,  Bawtry,  with  seed- 
ling Daffbdils  ;  Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown,  Stam- 
ford, Messrs  Perkins,  Huntingdon,  and  Messrs. 
Laxton,  Bedford,  with  general  spring  flowers ; 
and  Mr.  G.  Reuthe  of  Keston,  Kent,  with  a 
capital  show  of  alpines,  (fee.  Lady  De  Ramsey 
and  Messrs.  Laxton  showed  American  Tree  Car- 
nations, prominent  among  which  were  Harlo- 
warden.  White  Perfection,  Wnite  Enchantress, 
Rose  Enchantress,  Jessica  and  Challenger.  The 
celebrated  Rideski  Bind  pUyed  at  intervals. 
Altogether  it  may  be  said  to  have  been  a 
charming  and  enthusiastic  exhibition. 

Wall-trained  flowering  shrubs.— 

As  a  rule  we  do  not  make  enough  of  many  of  our 
beautiful  flowering  shrubs  as  wall  coverings. 
When  so  trained  they  seem  to  show  their  natural 
beauties  in  more  striking  form  than  when  grown 
in  shrubberies.  I  have  just  seen  on  a  wall  at 
Hampton  Court  Palace  one  of  the  finest  speci- 
mens of  Forsythia  viridissima  probably  to  be 
found  anywhere.  The  plant  covered  a  wall 
space  26  feet  long  by  12  feet  in  height,  and  was  a 
mass  of  golden  flowers.  As  it  fronts  on  a 
narrow  road,  it  is  compulsory  that  it  be  closely 
trained.  Could  it  have  room  to  allow  the  annual 
shoots  to  stand  out  from  the  wall  some  2  feet  to 
3  feet,  what  a  grand  mass  of  flower  it  would 
present.     Close  by  is  a  Pyrus  japonica  rosea,  also 


flat  trained,  filling  a  wall  space  of  144  square 
feet,  a  glorious  mass  of  bloom  ;  but  deciduous 
flowering  shrubs  so  trained  need  to  have 
alternated  with  them  evergreen  shrubs  to  throw 
them  up  by  contrast.  Somehow  a  real  effort  to 
so  dress  a  wall  does  not  yet  seem  to  have  been 
made. — A.  D. 

"  Who's  W^ho  in  Horticulture.'- 

Under  the  title  of  "  Year  Book  and  Who's  Who 
in  Horticulture,"  the  Cable  Printing  and 
Publishing  Company,  Limited,  Hatton  House, 
Great  Queen  Street,  London,  W.C.,  has 'pub- 
lished an  interesting  little  volume  at  the  price 
of  Is.  In  addition  to  numerous  useful  articles  on 
gardening  subjects,  short  accounts  of  prominent 
persons  in  the  horticultural  world  are  given. 

Spring   flower  gardening  at 

Hampton  Court. —  Bulbs  generally,  and 
Tulips  especially,  are  this  spring  playing  im- 
portant parts  in  the  fine  decorative  effort  neing 
made  at  this  popular  place  of  resort.  Tulips, 
indeed,  especially  in  the  long  wall  borders,  are 
in  immense  quantity.  Here,  planted  in  sections 
and  fairly  close,  with  other  plants  interspersed, 
although  still  rather  flat,  they  make  a  brilliant 
and  a  varied  display.  Numerous  visitors  must 
note  this  season  many  beautiful  Tulips  they 
have  not  previously  been  familiar  with  in  the 
large  beds  margining  the  broad  promenade. 
Necessarily,  Tulips  dotted  here  and  there 
between  Polyanthuses,  double  Daisies,  Wall- 
flowers or  similar  plants  give  somewhat  formal 
effects.  A  few  beds  with  groups  or  clumps  of 
various  bulbs  on  carpets  rather  than  dotted 
singly  would  be  welcome  breaks.  A  few  speci- 
ally charming  combinations  were  a  base  of  double 
Arabis,  with  King  of  Blues  Hyacinths  ancl 
Cottage  Maid  Tulips  ;  Tulip  Artus  on  white  and 
yellow  Polyanthuses ;  and  double  Tulip  La 
Candeur,  with  pale  blue  and  pink  Hyacinths 
on   Aubrietias  and  Daisies. — D. 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 

MAY. 

THE  BEST  METHODS  OF  GATHER- 
ING, PACKING  AND  TRANSMIT- 
TING FLOWERS,  FRUITS  AND 
VEGETABLES  FOR  EXHIBITION. 


A  First  Pfbe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A   Second  FrUe   of  TW^O   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a.  Fourth  PtUe  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on  the  above 
subject. 

We  think  that  as  exhibition  time  is  now 
approaching  essays  on  this  subject  should  be  of 
value,  especially  to  those  who  intend  to  exhibit 
at  The  Garden  Show.  Essayists  should  oonfine 
their  efforts  to  the  items  set  out  above,  and 
should  bear  in  mind  that  exhibits  may  have  to 
be  sent  without  anyone  in  charge  or  may  be 
accompanied  by  the  exhibitor. 

The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  The  Garden,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essiys  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Monday,  May  31.  Both  amateur  and  pro- 
fessional gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Garden  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS.,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
M8S.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
decision  is  final. 


i 


May  8,  1909. 


THE    GAEDEN. 


223 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  re^aonaibls  for  the   opinion6 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


A    National    Vegretable    SoDlety 

and  Exhibition.— It  is  but  too  obvious  that 
the  aspirations  of  those  interested  in  vegetable  cul- 
ture— and,  indeed,  who  are  not? — must  for  realisa- 
tion depend  very  much  on  proffers  of  tangible 
assistance  from  the  seed  trade.  It  is  this  trade 
which  has  in  the  past  been  the  primary  pro- 
moters of  vegetable  competitions,  and  it  is 
difficult  to  find  a  schedule  of  any  local  horticul- 
tural society,  large  or  small,  in  which  classes 
provided  by  the  seed  trade  do  not  occur.  What 
is  needed  is,  now  and  then  at  least,  some 
concentration  of  that  form  of  liberality  and 
encouragement  in  London  at  a  great  special 
vegetable  exhibition.  Will  the  trade  assist  in 
such  a  way  now '!  That  is  the  question. 
If  great  firms  like  Sutton,  Carter,  Webb, 
Sydenham,  Dobbie  and  a  few  others  would 
make  liberal  offers,  with  very  few  limita- 
tions as  to  conditions,  a  really  fine  schedule 
and  a  splendid  show  could  soon  be  provided. 
That  is  the  crux  of  the  whole  matter.  With 
such  a  start  at  once,  a  society,  and  from  that  a 
strong  and  an  impartial  committee,  could  be 
formed  and  the  matter  arranged  speedily.  Mr. 
W.  P.  Wood's  suggestion  as  to  a  meeting  of 
gardeners  and  others  interested  in  vegetable 
culture  during  the  Temple  Show  is  a  good  one, 
but  must,  all  the  same,  depend  on  the  action  of 
the  seed  trade.  Now,  will  any  members  of  that 
body  make  offers  such  as  will  justify  the  con- 
vening of  such  a  meeting?  Let  no  seed  firm 
wait  to  learn  what  another  is  going  to  do,  but 
make  a  spontaneous  offer  at  once,  and  all  do 
likewise.  Let  offers  be  sent  direct  to  the  Editor 
of  The  Garden  or  to  me. — ^Albx.  Dean,  63, 
Richmond  Road,  Kingston-on-Thames. 

Aptifidal  manures.  —  I  am  much 
obliged  to  "K."  for  his  reply  to  my  enquiry 
regarding  the  analysis  of  Wakeley's  Hop  Manure, 
but  would  point  out  that  the  analysis  he  gives  is 
misleading,  as  it  is  the  analysis  of  the  manure 
after  being  dried  at  212°  Fahr. ,  and  not  as  sent 
out.  If  the  manure  contains  50  per  cent,  of 
moisture,  the  nitrogen,  phosphates  and  potash 
contents  are  reduced  by  half.  A  sample  of  spent 
Hops  received  from  a  local  brewery  when  dried 
gave,  on  analysis,  nitrogen  3 '75  per  cent.,  soluble 
and  insoluble  phosphates  1'33  per  cent.,  potash 
■75  per  cent,  (moisture  68 '5  per  cent.).  The 
nitrogen  contents  in  spent  Hops  is,  therefore, 
higher  than  in  the  specially  prepared  Hop 
manure. — A  Usee  of  Spent  Hops. 

Coloured  plate  of  new  Carna- 
tions.— The  Rev.  J.  Jacob  has  described 
these  in  a  most  interesting  way,  a  gift  which  is 
somewhat  rare.  He  speaks  highly  of  Lady 
Dainty,  but  mentions  this  variety  first,  and  1 
must  say  that,  although  it  is  pretty,  Black  Chief 
stands  out  as  a  much  more  valuable  variety, 
being  one  that  Carnation-growers  have  been 
wanting  for  some  time,  namely,  a  really  free- 
flowering  crimson,  which,  besides  being  the 
ideal  Clove  colour,  has  the  old  Clove  scent.  He 
has  described  this  variety  so  well  that  I  will  not 
attempt  to  improve  upon  it,  but  only  write  you 
to  emphasise  the  fact  that  Black  Chief  is  a  com- 
mercial variety,  whereas  Lady  Dainty  is  a 
fancy. — Laurbncb  J.  Cook. 

Swede  Turnip  Greens.— "A.  D.'s" 
suggestion  in  your  issue  for  April  3  is  an  excel- 
lent one.  I  have  never  gone  so  far  as  placing  the 
roots  of  Swede  Turnips  in  a  warm  frame,  but  I 
have  on  several  occasions— and  am  thankful  to 
say  that  the  present  season  is  one  of  them — 
obtained  from  the  home  farm  and  other  sources 
sufficient  roots  soon  after  Christmas  and  planted 
these  in  rows  in  a  sheltered  part  of  the  kitchen 
garden.  As  "A.  D."  says,  these  furnish  an 
abundance   of    the    very    best    Greens.      Now, 


it  may  not  be  known  to  all  gardeners  that 
there  are  two  types  of  Swedes — the  red  and  the 
white.  The  red  starts  into  growth  earlier  than 
the  white,  although  the  latter  is  much  the 
hardier  in  constitution.  I  mention  this  for  two 
reasons — first,  we  want  the  one  which  will  give 
us  early  Greens  ;  secondly,  we  want  a  succession 
of  Greens,  so  that  if  we  plant  both  varieties  we 
shall  obtain  what  we  require.  In  reference  to 
planting  in  frames,  I  think  this  would  be  only 
necessary  in  a  very  severe  winter  and  one  of 
great  scarcity  like  the  present.  All  the  same,  it 
is  an  excellent  idea  ;  and  if  we  have  the  roots  at 
hand  the  trouble  is  almost  nil.  We  must,  how- 
ever, use  caution  as  regards  the  heat.  These 
Swede  Turnips  will  not  stand  great  heat,  which 
is  sometimes  given  off  from  horse-manure.  The 
least  amount  of  heat  at  the  roots  will  start  the 
crowns  into  growth,  and  air  must  be  given 
freely.  On  the  Cotswolds  we  drop  the  word 
Turnip,  only  using  the  first  name,  viz.,  Swede. 
I  mention  this  to  save  confusion.  One  other 
kind  of  Green  which  I  think  may  very  well  be 
brought  on  in  a  frame  is  the  Turnip.  This  we 
have  placed  frames  over  and  found  it  to  answer 
well.  Here  the  Greens  from  the  Turnip  are  far 
more  important  than  those  from  the  Swede.  By 
most  people  it  is  considered  much  more  whole- 
some, and  I  believe  this  is  the  doctor's  view. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  past  winter  will 
have  been  a  fine  schoolmaster  to  most  of  us,  as 
in  future  we  shall  look  ahead  and  try  to  provide 
for  contingencies.  "A.  D."  has  certainly  given 
us  a  real  good  "  tip,"  which  I  shall  try  to 
remember. — A.,  Cirencester. 

First  early  trumpet  Daffodils  for 

market  work. — It  will  interest  your  many 
readers  if  I  mention  that  I  have  for  years  been 
trying  to  raise  a  stock  to  meet  this  purpose, 
even  earlier  sorts  than  my  introduction  twenty 
years  since,  by  putting  Ard  Righ  on  the  English 
market  in  thousands.  To  follow  up,  at  the 
end  of  last  August  I  put  into  a  sheltered 
south  border  over  thirty  sorts,  the  names  of 
which  will  be  given  later  on.  Among  the  lot 
was  one  called  Androcles,  a  fine,  bold,  upright 
flower  of  rich  yellow.  It  came  in  first  and  was 
in  bloom  on  February  4,  to  be  followed  by  such 
as  Cervantes,  Claddagh  and  Early  Bird.  I  have 
always  considered  the  three  latter  varieties 
as  more  early  sorts,  but  having  had  reports 
from  some  of  my  New  Zealand  patrons  to 
the  effect  that,  within  the  surroundings  of 
Auckland,  Androcles  was  their  first  bloom, 
I  made  the  test  this  season,  and  find  the 
difference  as  stated.  I  wish  I  had  not 
parted  with  it  so  freely.  The  much-sought- 
after  Golden  Spur  will  only  hold  about  sixth 
place  as  an  early  flower  when  I  give  you  par- 
ticulars of  the  remaining  portions  of  the  trial.  — 
William  Baylor  Hartland,  Ard  Cairn,  Cork. 

A  note    on   window-boxes.— Eight 

years  ago  I  was  struck  by  the  pleasing  appear- 
ance of  some  window-boxes  I  saw  with  irregular- 
shaped  cork-bark  nailed  to  them.  I  made  a 
couple  of  boxes  and  nailed  bark  to  them.  I 
found,  when  moving  the  boxes  to  replant  them, 
that  pieces  of  bark  were  often  broken  off.  This 
set  me  thinking,  so  I  made  another  box  and  also 
a  simple  wire  frame,  fastened  some  bark  to  it  so 
that  the  frame  could  not  be  seen  and  then  con- 
nected it  securely  to  the  box  in  such  a  way  that  it 
could  be  detached  from  it  and  replaced  in  a  few 
seconds.  The  advantage  of  this  method  is  obvious. 
The  frames  I  make  now  are  different  to  the  first 
ones,  experience  having  taught  me  the  best  way. 
I  add  bark  pockets  for  flowers  to  the  frames. 
These  pockets  are  also  easily  detached  in  a  few 
seconds.  I  have  also  made  a  lot  of  cork-bark 
flower-pots  of  various  shapes  and  sizes,  some  with 
detachable  rustic  wood  stands,  others  with  rustic 
wood  or  wire  suspenders.  Two  years  ago  I  began 
much  more  elaborate  work  of  this  kind,  making 
some  of  the  most  pleasing  and  artistic  receptacles 
for  flowers.  Most  of  these  I  have  been  induced 
to  sell,  others  I  have  given  away  ;  but  I  am  again 


about  to  take  up  the  tools  to  make  more,  ready 
for  spring  planting.  Anyone  who  can  use  a  few 
simple  tools,  and  possesses  the  knowledge  of  the 
right  way  to  do  it,  should  be  capable  of  doing 
some  creditable  work  of  this  kind  in  its  simplest 
forms.  After  some  practical  knowledge  has  been 
gained,  more  elaborate  work  may  be  attempted. 
It  is  admired  by  all,  the  cost  is  not  great  and 
when  the  proper  materials  have  been  used  I  can 
guarantee  their  lasting  qualities,  as  I  have  some 
of  my  original  work  still  in  use. — Rustic. 
Polyanthus  Primroses.— I  read  with 

some  surprise  Mr.  W.  A.  Watts's  statement  that 
this  form  of  Primulaceai  was  raised  by  a  Mr. 
Walton.  Seeing  that  I  was  growing  remarkably 
fine  strains  of  both  true  garden  Primroses  and 
Polyanthuses  for  some  twenty  years,  beginning  at 
Bedfont,  so  long  since  as  1871,  and  annually  by 
many  thousands,  it  is  with  the  long  experience 
obtained  amusing  to  read  that  anyone  claims  to 
have  raised  what  has  come  so  naturally.  With 
Primroses  the  trouble  in  growing  seedlings  was 
to  eliminate  the  many  plants  that,  brmging 
flowers  on  Primrose  stems  first,  produced  flowers 
as  scapes  on  Polyanthus  stems  later.  In  the 
same  way  Polyanthuses  raised  from  seed  saved 
from  pure  Polyanthuses  would  produce  these 
early  Primrose  flowers,  then  be  followed  by 
others  as  scapes.  This  feature  invariably  showed 
how  small  is  or  was  the  distinction  between 
Primrose  and  Polyanthus.  But  this  feature 
crops  up  in  every  collection  of  seedling  border 
Polyanthuses,  and  is  peculiar  to  no  strain.  I 
have  had  such  plants  to  carry  flowers  in  open 
winters  from  November  till  April,  and  even 
longer. — A.  De.a.n. 

Germination    of    Sweet    Peas.— 

When  visiting  the  garden  of  one  of  our  Sweet 
Pea-growers,  my  attention  was  drawn  to  a  large 
number  of  plants  in  shallow  boxes  raised  from 
an  eaily  sowing,  the  plants  then  being  3  inches 
in  height.  The  grower  had  sown  seed  saved  last 
year  in  distant  California  and  similar  varieties 
from  home-saved  seed.  In  the  former  case  the 
produce  was  100  per  cent,  of  robust  plants  ;  in  the 
latter  case  it  was  from  20  to  30  per  cent,  only 
and  the  plants  were  rather  weak.  While  the 
first-named  seeds  were  full  and  round,  the  latter 
were  all  pale,  thin]  and  ^somewhat  shrivelled. 
I  am  not  quoting  this  instance  with  any  desire  to 
belittle  home  Sweet  Pea  seed-saving ;  I  am 
merely  stating  it  as  an  interesting  fact.  That 
California  has  a  magnificent  seed-ripening  climate 
there  can  be  no  doubt.  Ours  for  the  past  two 
years  at  least  has  not  been  at  all  favourable  for 
this  purpose,  and  to  the  weather  last  autumn 
doubtless  the  failure  on  the  part  of  home-saved 
seeds  to  germinate  well,  as  in  this  instance,  is 
due.  Possibly  other  growers  have  been  more 
fortunate.  If  some  have  not  been  so,  they  will 
know  where  to  place  the  blame. — D. 

Dafi'odil  notes.— The  uninitiated  would 
scarcely  have  believed  it  possible  for  the  com- 
mittee of  a  Royal  society  to  have  registered  names 
for  flowers  which  were  not  in  existence.  Mr 
Jacob's  notes  on  page  200  of  The  Gaudbn  state 
this  fact,  which  has  also  been  admitted  by 
another  member  of  the  select  committee  which 
issued  the  new  classification  of  Daffodils.  It  is 
very  unfair,  to  use  the  mildest  term,  for  a  person 
to  register  a  name  for  a  possible  flower  which  he 
may  have  in  his  mind's  eye,  and  which,  with  the 
cross-fertilisation  of  hundreds  of  flowers,  he  may 
never  succeed  in  raising.  If  such  proceedings  were 
permitted,  it  is  no  wonder  that  hundreds  of 
names  were  printed  without  raiser  or  class 
attached  to  them.  To  an  amateur  who  would 
gladly  be  free  from  naming  an  indifferent  flower, 
the  regulation  attached  to  showing  new  seed- 
lings, that  they  must  be  named,  seems  the  point 
which  wants  alteration.  Why  should  not  the 
flowers  be  shown  under  numbers — Adlers  i, 
Wolf  es  3,  or  Bears  60  ?  If  distinct  and  good  when 
accorded  honourable  commendation,  award  of 
merit  or  first-class  certificate,  then  name  them 
with  a  description,  class  and,  if  any  society  wished, 


224 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  8,  1909. 


a  photograph.  No  seedling  to  be  shown  the  first 
year  of  flowering  ;  three  flowers  at  least  to  be 
shown  to  gain  the  lowest  distinction  and  nine  at 
least  for  the  highest.  No  person's  name  should 
be  given  to  a  flower  without  his  or  her  consent, 
unless  it  happens  to  be  the  name  of  some  dis- 
tinguished foreigner,  who  would  probably  never 
know  that  his  name  had  been  so  used.  All 
people  have  not  the  same  universality  of  judgment 
as  the  Rev.  J.  .Jacob,  and  probably  there  would 
be  a  great  difference  in  the  flowers  which  they 
would  consign  to  the  rubbish-heap.  There  are 
many  hundreds  of  flowers  not  worth  naming,  yet 
which  are  new  and  varied  and  are  of  value  for 
bedding  and  pot  purposes,  which  might  be 
reckoned  as  X  (cross)  varieties,  such  a  recognition 
putting  an  end  at  once  to  a  desire  for  an  enormous 
number  of  names — Brown,  Jones,  Robinson  or 
any  other  owner,  gardener  or  raiser. — Agrioola. 

Early   Sweet   Peas.— At  the   end   of 

September,  1908,  I  dug  up  a  plant  out  of  a  row 
of  Sweet  Peas  (which  had  been  flowering  all 
last  summer)  and  potted  it  up  in  a  9-inoh  pot  in 
good  loam  with  a  sprinkling  of  silver  sand. 
The  growths  I  then  cut  back  to  within  2  inches 
or  3  inches  of  the  roots  and  placed  the  pot  in 
the  open,  when  in  a  few  days  new  growth  com- 
menced to  appear.  The  plant  was  placed  in  the 
greenhouse  a  few  days  before  Christmas,  and  on 
April  111  cut  the  first  spray  of  flowers.  It  is 
now  about  6  feet  in  height  and  full  of  fine 
blooms  and  buds.  I  must  remark  that  the 
minimum  temperature  was  about  40"  during  the 
hard  weather  ;  but  although  a  great  many  buds 
were  made,  they  did  not  come  to  perfection  until 
firing  ceased  at  the  beginning  of  last  month.  I 
have  mentioned  the  subject  to  several  professional 
gardeners,  and  as  they  had  not  heard  of  this 
method  of  growing  early  Sweet  Peas,  I  thought 
my  experiment  might  be  of  interest  to  some  of 
your  readers. — John  Bland,  Wetland  Bank, 
Market  Harborough. 

Manures  fop  alpine  plants.— Mr. 

S.  Arnott  {see  p.  190)  will  doubtless  be  interested 
to  know  that  it  is  upwards  of  thirty  years  since 
I  first  began  experimenting  with  organic  and 
artificial  manures  for  alpines.  At  the  time  I  was 
promptly  voted  an  extremist,  and  more  than  once 
reminded  of  the  ledges,  crags  and  fissures  of  rock 
on  which  many  alpine  plants  made  their  home, 
where  applied  manures  of  all  kinds  were 
absolutely  foreign  to  them.  A  stock  reply  of 
mine  at  the  time  was  that  the  2  feet  or  3  feet 
depth  of  soil  of  which  many  rock  gardens  were 
made  up  was  equally  foreign  ;  while  a  thousand 
times  more  foreign  than  all  was  the  fact  that  we 
coveted  and  desired  these  plants  of  other  climes, 
brought  them  into  a  foreign  land  and  exposed 
them  to  all  the  changes  and  vicissitudes  of  a 
climate  none  too  genial,  and  in  which  the  plants 
were  bereft  of  their  winter  protection  of  snow.  I 
have  never  seen  an  analysis  of  mountain  snow,  and 
am  therefore  entirely  ignorant  as  to  its  composi- 
tion and  whether  any  of  the  primary  elements 
of  manure  enter  into  it,  or  to  what  extent.  But 
I  know  that  manure  can  be  used  with  benefit 
to  these  plants,  and  the  whole  subject  turns  upon 
this  one  word — discretion.  Woolly-leaved  sub- 
jects like  the  Androsaees  do  not  require  it,  and  a 
very  little  may  be  too  much.  At  the  same  time, 
A.  foliosa  delights  in  a  rather  rich,  sandy  loam 
and  grows  and  increases  with  great  rapidity. 
The  Onosmas  and  Omphalodes  Luciliae  are  so 
easily  poisoned  by  organic  manures  that  I 
usually  advise  that  none  be  used  for  these 
plants.  The  wood  -  ashes  from  the  rubbish 
fires,  which  are  rich  in  potash  and  other 
things,  must  be  used  in  very  small  doses  indeed, 
for,  while  assisting  in  making  an  ideal  potting 
mixture,  it  is  very  deadly  when  employed  about 
the  roots  of  choice  alpines,  chieBy  because  of  its 
soluble  and  quick-acting  properties.  But  the 
same  material  in  very  moderate  doses  and  always 
mingled  with  soil  might  be  advantageously 
employed  for  alpine  plants  in  the  borders  or  in  the 
rock  garden.  Free-growing  and  strong-rooting 
subjects   like   Anemone   Hepatica,    the   Ad.  nit^. 


Aubrietia,  Phlox  setacea  and  its  great  following, 
may  be  manured  freely,  and  I  believe  I  am 
correct  in  saying  that  Mr.  T.  Smith  of  Newry 
once  wrote  me  to  the  efTeet  that  Primula  pubescens 
alba  (the  P.  nivalis  of  gardens)  was  as  much  at 
home  on  a  manure-heap  as  in  the  rock  garden. 
In  any  case,  I  know  that  the  finest  develop- 
ment in  this  and  many  other  Primulas  has  been 
obtained  by  the  heavy  manuring  of  the  ground 
in  which  they  were  planted.  Nor  did  this 
greatly  increased  vigour  appear  to  have "  the 
least  drawback,  but  the  reverse.  An  alpine 
plant  is  seen  in  Nature  in  the  smallest  of  rocky 
crevices,  perhaps  with  but  little  or  no  soil,  but 
its  being  there  is  due  to  circumstances,  and  it 
does  not  follow  that  the  plant  would  not  do 
much  better  elsewhere.  Indeed,  this  is  apparent 
when  the  growth  of  plants  in  upland  pastures  is 
compared  with  that  of  higher  altitudes ;  and 
while  these  plants  in  Nature  do  not  receive 
manurial  dressings  such  as  are  understood  in 
garden  parlance,  this  is  not  to  be  regarded  as 
proof  that  such  manures  are  opposed  to  their 
well-being  or  success.     The  manures  to  avoid  are 


MR.    ROBERT  bYDENHAM. 

quick-acting  or  highly  concentrated  ones,  an 
overdose  of  which  will  promptly  disfigure  a  free- 
growing  Chrysanthemum.  All  farmyard  or 
stable  manure  should  be  of  such  an  age  that  it 
may  be  rubbed  through  a  sieve  of  a  quarter-inch 
mesh,  and  such  as  this,  heated  sufficiently  to 
destroy  worms  and  other  insect-life,  may  be  used 
with  advantage.  Just  what  quantity  should  be 
employed  and  to  what  plants  will  depend  on  the 
plant  itself  and,  in  particular,  the  character  of  its 
root  system.  Slow-acting  manures,  such  as  bone- 
meal,  for  surface  dressing  can  usually  be  given, 
and  I  have  frequently  employed  organic  manures 
for  the  choicest  Saxifrages  with  advantage. 
Bone-meal  should  be  mixed  with  the  soil  a  month 
before  using,  turning  the  heap  twice  or  thrice 
meanwhile.  Soot,  too,  is  excellent  in  every 
way.  By  the  use  of  manure  none  would  desire 
to  destroy  altogether  or  even  to  rob  an  alpine  of 
its  chief  characteristics,  but  rather  to  endeavour 
to  improve  its  growth  and  flowering  by  the  ordi- 
narily approved  methods  of  culture. — E.  H. 
.Jenkins,  Hamjilou  JIM. 


MR.   ROBERT  SYDENHAM. 

A  HORTicoLTURiST  one  admires  for  his  business 
acumen  and  courtesy  is  Mr.  Robert  Sydenham, 
"  Uncle  Robert,"  as  one  likes  to  call  this  son  of 
Birmingham.  It  is  a  pleasure  to  publish  a 
photograph  of  one  who  has  a  love  of  flowers  in 
his  heart  and  in  his  home  grows  them  to 
perfection.  Mr.  Sydenham  is  well  known  in 
Birmingham  ;  he  possesses  a  knowledge  of 
flowers  and  jewels,  and  we  venture  to  express 
the  opinion  that  perhaps  the  flowers  are  the  most 
appreciated.  The  Birmingham  Daffodil  Society 
owes  much  to  Mr.  Sydenham,  who  occupies  the 
position  of  treasurer  ;  but  there  is  more  than 
that — a  personality  that  means  a  successful  show 
in  a  great  business  city. 


NEW     DAFFODILS 
BIRMINGHAM. 


AT 


I  WILL  first  of  all  give  a  list,  with  a  short 
description,  of  all  the  varieties  that 
received  official  recognition  before  I  pick 
out  some  of  the  flowers  that,  either  for 
their  peculiar  beauty  or  their  novelty, 
claim  particular  attention.  It  is,  perhaps, 
as  well  to  state  the  conditions  which  must 
be  observed  at  Birmingham  before  either  a 
first-class  certificate  or  an  award  of  merit  is 
given.  To  qualify  for  either,  two-thirds  of  the 
judges  voting  must  be  in  its  favour,  and  in  the 
case  of  a  first-class  certificate  six  stems  must  be 
shown,  and  for  an  award  of  merit  three. 
First-class  Certificates. 

Great  Warley.  —  This  is  a  very  large  bioolor 
ineomparabilis,  and  when  well  grown  and  fully 
developed  is  certainly  one  of  the  largest,  if  not 
the  largest,  of  its  class.  The  perianth  segments 
are  a  pure  white,  but  somewhat  inclined  to 
become  a  little  floppy.  The  cup  is  really  a  short 
trumpet — bold  looking,  but  possibly  wanting  in 
refinement.     It  is  a  deep  yellow  in  colour. 

Homespun.  —  No  description  of  this  most 
refined  yellow  ineomparabilis  is  needed.  I  can 
only  say  that  for  the  show  table  it  is  an  absolute 
necessity  in  any  first-rate  representative  collec- 
tion, however  small. 

Queen  of  the  West  is  a  very  large  and,  if  one 
may  judge  from  the  length  of  the  stem,  tall- 
growing  long  trumpet  of  the  beautiful  Captain 
Nelson  shade  of  yellow.  The  weak  part  of  the 
flower  is  its  perianth,  which  is  too  loose  and 
untidy-looking  for  it  ever  to  become  a  show 
table  variety.  Its  great  value  lies  in  its  suit- 
ability for  market  and  for  cutting. 
Awards  or  Merit. 

Bedouin,  which  I  remember  seeing  last  year  on 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons'  stand  at  one  of  the  last 
meetings  at  Vincent  Square,  is  a  remarkably  fine 
ineomparabilis.  It  has  a  large  white  perianth, 
broad  and  spreading,  with  a  widely  expanded 
cup  of  a  rich  orange  red,  and  may  be  called  a 
much-improved  Crown  Prince. 

CoMack  is  a  flower  of  the  Barri  type,  with  a 
much-expanded  cup  of  intense  deep  orange  red 
and  a  reflexed  solid  white  perianth. 

Giraffe  is  a  valuable  flower,  because  there  are 
not  very  many  all-yellow  incomparabiliser.  For 
some  reason  raisers  have  not  done  much  in  this 
direction,  and  so  a  fine  large  flower,  even  if  its 
perianth  is  not  all  that  one  could  wish,  is  a 
decided  acquisition. 

Bed  arid  Gold  marks  a  distinct  advance  in 
highly  coloured  doubles  and  is,  I  fancy,  one  of 
Mr.  F.  W.  M.  Copeland's  seedlings.  It  is  a 
loosely-put-together  flower,  with,  as  its  name 
implies,  deep  yellow  petals  and  the  red,  split-up 
corona  peeping  up  between  them. 

Red  Chief  is  notable  because  of  the  crinkled 
and  uneven  deep  red  edge  to  its  cup.  It  is  of 
the  Engleheart«i-Burbidgti  type. 

Saint  George  is  a  very  pretty  flower  of  the 
Burbidgei  type,  with  a  solid,  cream-coloured 
periiulh  ai.d  a  well-formed  red  cup. 


May  8,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


225 


Scarlet  Gem  belongs  to  the  small  but  important 
section  of  Poetaz.  It  is  the  only  one  with  a  red 
cup,  and  if  its  constitution  is  as  good  as  that  of 
all  the  others,  it  will  be  a  very  valuable  addition 
to  this  group. 

White  Slave  may  be  called  an  improved  White 
Lady  by  those  who  like  a  flatter  and  a  larger  cup 
than  we  get  in  that  sterling  variety.  Personally 
it  does  not  very  much  appeal  to  me,  as  I  like  the 
smaller  and  what  is  almost  now  the  more  un- 
common cup  of  the  older  flower. 


Royal  HoBTrcuLTUBAr,  Society's  Award  of 
Merit. 
Lowdham  Beauty,  raised  by  Messrs.  Pearson 
and  Sons,  was  singled  out  by  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society's  deputation  for  an  award.  As 
I  know  it  both  on  the  show  table  and  as  a 
growing  plant,  I  can  say  it  fully  deserves  the 
honour.  White  Queen  is  not  altogether  a  garden 
flower  on  account  of  its  short  stem.  Lowdham 
Beauty  is  of  the  same  type,  but  of  a  much  more 
robust  habit  of  growth,  and  when  plentiful  will 
become  a  popular  variety.  It  has  a  long,  light- 
looking  frilled  cup  or  short  trumpet  of  a  deUoate 
oehre  yellow  tone.  It  is  not  one  of  the  largest 
Giant  Leedsiis,  but  I  do  not  think  there  is  one 
that  is  more  elegant. 

Some  Good  Novelties. 

There  were  not  many  very  striking  new  varie- 
ties this  year.  This  may  be  accounted  for  partly 
by  the  absence  of  Mr.  Engleheart  on  account  of 
ill-health  and  partly  because  of  the  late  season, 
which  caused  everyone's  blooms  to  be  much  later 
than  usual.  The  following  are  some  of  the  very 
best  and  most  distinctive.  The  name  after  the 
variety  denotes  the  person  in  whose  collection  or 
group  the  flower  was  exhibited. 

White  Star  (J.  C.  Williams). —Probably  the 
most  beautiful  novelty  in  the  whole  show.  It  is 
a  large  incomparabilis,  with  long,  incurving  and 
overlapping  perianth  segments  of  a  solid  white, 
with  a  well-proportioned  soft  yellow  cup.  It  is 
well  named,  for  it  has  a  beautiful  star-like 
appearance. 

Pixie  (Orosfield). — A  perfectly  symmetrical 
florist's  flower  ;  in  fact,  almost  too  regular  in  its 
build  and  marking.  It  has  broad,  round,  over- 
lapping perianth  segments  of  ivory  white,  with 
a  deep  orange-coloured  cup,  sharply  edged  red. 

Ivorine  (P.  D.  Williams)  is  a  round-petalled, 
graceful  Leedsii,  with  a  shallow  yellow  cup. 
The  perianth  is  inclined  to  recurve. 

Phantasy  (Crosfield). — A  magnificent  white 
large  trumpet.  This  variety  has  a  perianth  with 
a  good  square  shoulder,  and  generally  is  to  be 
found  "there  or  thereabouts"  when  exhibited 
in  single  bloom  classes. 

Tennyson  (Dawson). — A  very  fine  Poet.  It 
may  be  described  as  a  very  large  Almira.  Those 
who  like  the  graceful  curves  in  the  perianth 
of  this  latter  variety  will  want  to  grow  Tennyson. 

Pedestal  (Crosfield). — There  are  not  many 
regular-shaped  bicolor  ineomparabilises  suitable 
for  the  show  table.  This  new  variety  is  one  of 
the  best. 

Hypatia  (Dawson). — A  real  show  flower,  which 
is  characterised  bj  a  round,  overlapping  white 
perianth  and  a  wide  cup,  which  appears  to  be 
crinkled  from  the  edge  inwards  and  coloured 
yellow,  rayed  with  yellow  ochre. 

Lavender  (Dawson)  was  shown  last  year  at 
Birmingham  for  the  first  time.  The  perianth  is 
weak  and  thin,  and  the  distinctiveness  of  the 
flower  consists  in  its  beautiful  white  cup,  which 
has  a  centre  of  the  palest  emerald  green  and  is 
edged  with  a  band  of  shrimp  pink.  There  is  no 
other  Daffodil  at  all  like  it. 

Hot  Shot  (Crosfield). — A  small  flower  with  a 
redder  cup  than  Firebrand  and  a  well-shaped  pale 
yellow  perianth,  which  reminds  one  of  that  of 
Blood  Orange. 

Heroine  (Cartwright  and  Goodwin). — A  fine 
effective  flower.     An  improved  Albatross. 

Beth  (Douglas).  — A  shapely  Giant  Leedsii.  The 
perianth  is  what,  for  want  of  a  better  term,  may 


This    gives    the   whole 


be  called    shouldered, 
flower  a  claw-like  look. 

Jvdge  Bird  (Sir  J.  Gore-Booth).  A  very  large 
Empress  with  pointed  segments.  It  is  a  fine 
garden  plant.  Joseph  Jacob. 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN 


HOW   TO 


TREES    IN 


(  Uont 

w 


roots. 


GROW    FRUIT 
POTS. 

(Continued  Jrom  pai/e  202.) 

HEN  the  Figs  are  not  repotted 
(we  make  an  exception  in  not 
potting  these  every  season,  pre- 
ferring   to   do   it   in   alternate 
years)  the  top-dressing  is  care- 
fully   removed,    but    not    the 
Some  of  the  surface   soil   is   then  taken 
away  and  these  roots   laid  out   and   fresh   soil 
added  thereon.      I  consider  the  process  of  top- 
dressing    has    an    important    bearing   upon   the 
fertility  of  the  trees  for  the  coming  season. 

Manures. 
We    begin    to    apply    occasional    stimulants 
when  it  is   seen   that   the   fruits  are  fairly  on 
the  move,    say,    when   they   are   of   the   size  of 
small  Nuts.     In  our  case  this  season  the  earliest 
trees  have  just  had  a  top-dressing  of  ground  lime 
(March  1),  applied  by  means  of  the  thumb  and 
two  fingers,  one  application  to   each  pot   only. 
The  same  amount  of  an  artificial  compound  will 
be  applied  in  about  a  week's  time.     For  this 
purpose   there    are   several    manures    prepared 
by    various  firms  of   repute  and   good    business 
standing  that  may  be  advantageously  used.     In 
every  case  note  the  per  cent,  of  the  component 
parts  ;  if  this   be  given  fully,  it  is  well ;  if  not, 
and  in  an  evasive  manner,  avoid  them.     A  good 
and  reliable  artificial  manure    for  stone  fruits 
should  consist  of  phosphates,  soluble,  10  per  cent. ; 
insoluble,  2.5  per  cent.  ;    of  potash,  2?,   to  :S  per 
cent.  ;  and  of  ammonia,  .5  per  cent.      We  alter- 
nate an    artificial    with   a   liquid  manure  made 
from   horse   or   cow   manure,    with   soot    added 
thereto.      This  is  kept  prepared  in  a  large  tub, 
the  soot   being   first  put  into  a  stout   bag   and 
placed  in  the  bottom.     The  clear  water  only  is 
used  ;    it  is  foolish   to  think  of  stirring  up  the 
mixture  previous  to  using,  as  if  that  would   be 
more  eflficaeious.     As  regards  artificial  manures, 
it  is  necessary  to  give  a  word  of  caution.     Fre- 
quently they  are  applied  with  too  free  a  hand, 
and  the  object  in  view  is  defeated  by  an  opposite 
effect.      Anyone  who  is  at    all  conversant  witli 
medicine  will  know  that  this  same  effect  often 
results  by  too  frequent  or  too  heavy  doses.     As 
the  fruits  begin  to  colour,  water  is  given  more 
carefully  and  all  stimulants  are  then  withheld. 
After  -  Treatment    Un  der    Glass    in 
Watering,  &c. 
After  the  crop  is  gathered  the  trees  are  freely 
syringed  two  or  three  times  daily  and  watered 
also  somewhat  liberally.     If  any  check  occurs  at 
this  time  the  trees  may  become  subject  to  red 
spider  and  also,   what  is  most    important  for 
another  season,  an  imperfect  development  of  the 
flower  buds.      Occasional  applications  of  liquid 
and  artificial  manures  are  still  given  for  a  time 
until  the  growth  is  well  perfected.     As  regards 
temperatures  and  ventilation  during  forcing,  no 
variation,   or  but  little,  from  the  usual  course 
pursued   is   made.     The  syringe   is  used   freely 
when  the  weather  is  fine,  and  damping  down 
between  the  trees  and  pots   is  practised.      Do 
not,   however,   let    the    atmospheric    conditions 
become  too  humid  when  a  few  dull  or  sunless 
days  may  at  times  supervene.     If  this  be  the 
case  when  the  fruit  begins  to  swell,  it  will  foster 
the  wood  growth  rather  than  that  of  the  fruits. 
By  keeping  the  house  too  close  at  such  times  it 
is  also  easy  to  bring  about  these  same  results. 

When  the  forcing  is  commenced,  or  at  least 
when  the  house  is  closed  for  that  purpose,  the 


syringe  is  plied  pretty  freely,  but  not  sufficiently 
to  make  the  soil  too  wet  upon  the  surface. 
For  the  first-early  house,  which  is  closed  on  or 
about  December  1,  we  do  not  for  at  least  three 
weeks  allow  any  fire-heat.  When  we  do  permit 
a  trifle  of  warmth  in  the  pipes  the  temperature  is 
not  at  once  raised  to  what  is  recognised  as  the 
standard  night  temperature,  viz.,  50°  Fahr.  or 
thereabouts.  We  keep  it  a  few  degrees  lower 
and  do  not  at  all  mind  if  the  morning  reading  of 
the  thermometer  indicates  40°  or  even  less  if 
frosty.  I  would  much  prefer  to  raise  it  more 
during  daylight  than  is  usually  practised  ;  thus 
the  average  or  mean  temperature  would  be  about 
the  same  as  in  most  cases.  My  object  for  doing 
this  is  merely  to  imitate  a  little  more  than  is 
usually  done  the  conditions  that  ensue  in  the 
home  of  most  of  these  fruits,  where  during  the 
day  the  sun  is  warm  and  where  during  the  night 
it  may  and  does  fall  nearly  to  freezing  point. 
When  in  flower  the  night  temperature,  if  cold 
and  frosty  outside,  is  kept  at  about  50°;  if  mild, 
a  few  degrees  more,  say  55°,  but  then  there 
should  be  a  little  ventilation  in  my  opinion. 
Gradual  increases  are  made  when  the  fruits  are 
set  and  begin  to  swell  away  freely,  until  it 
touches  60°  at  the  time  of  banking  up  the  fires. 
During  the  day  the  increase  is  in  proportion, 
ventilating  in  favourable  weather  both  at  the 
top  and  bottom,  and  closing  early  when  the 
conditions  are  favourable.  When  Cardinal 
Nectarine  is  about  half  coloured  and  still  firm,  it 
is  disposed  to  crack  if  the  syringe  is  used  too 
freely  in  the  afternoon  so  that  at  nightfall  the 
trees  still  retain  any  moisture  upon  them.  It  is 
also  wiser  to  be  somewhat  careful  in  respect  to  the 
watering  at  such  times. 

In  the  treatment  of  Cherries  in  pots,  great 
pare  has  to  be  exercised  in  the  temperatures,  also 
in  the  ventilation.  It  may  be  taken  as  a  rule, 
however,  that  5°  less  than  for  Nectarines,  Plums 
and  Peaches  is  a  safe  line  to  follow,  both  as 
regards  night  and  day  temperatures.  The  Cherry 
house  should  also  be  ventilated  more  freely, 
especially  up  to  the  time  of  colouring  and  when 
there  is  no  further  danger  of  dropping.  The 
panes  of  glass  in  our  ease  are  large  ;  hence  when 
the  sun  shines  brightly  it  is  rather  trying  to  the 
Cherry  trees.  At  such  times  and  after  the  fruit 
is  set  we  run  a  thin  blind  over  the  roof  just  for 
the  brightest  times.  This  same  blind  is  also 
very  useful  when  the  fruit  is  ripe  and  it  has  to 
be  kept  hanging  for  a  few  days. 

James  Hodson,  V.M.H. 
(To  be  continued.) 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


E 


growers 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 
NEMIES.  —  Although    the    Queen    of 


Annuals  has  not  as  many  enemies  as 

severi.1   of   the  general   occupants   of 

our  gardens,  those  which  do  come  to 

the  attack   are   foes   which   are   well 

worthy  of  our   steel,   and   it   is   only 

who   get   in  a  first  and  very  powerful 

blow  who  can   be  sure  of  coming  out  victorious 

from  the  fight.    No  matter  what  the  pest  may  be, 

the  thing  to  do  is  to  attack  early,  and  never  to 

cease  the  efforts  until  the  last  enemy  has  been 

destroyed.      The   greatest  nuisances    are   slugs, 

birds  and  green  fly,  and  just  which  is  the  worst 

depends  largely  on  seasons  and  circumstances. 

Let  us  glance  at  each. 

Slugs.  — These,  of  course,  do  the  greatest  harm 
during  the  time  that  the  plants  are  in  the  seed- 
ling stage,  but  they  are  such  persistent  attackers 
that  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  be  ignored  at 
any  period.  There  are  several  excellent  prepara- 
tions now  on  the  market  and  advertised  in  the 
columns  of  The  Garden  which  will  clear  the 
pests  out,  provided  they  are  used  strictly  accord- 
ing to  the  directions  of  the  vendors ;  failures 
are   sometimes   recorded    against   them,    but    in 


226 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  8,  1909. 


nearly  all  instances  the  cause  is  neglect  to  follow 
instructions,  and  is  not  due  to  any  fault  of 
the  material  itself.  These  I  have  proved  to  be 
superior  to  soot  or  lime  or  both,  and  strongly 
advocate  their  use,  and  their  good  effect  should 
be  supplemented  by  hunting  with  a  light  during 
the  evening,  when  many  can  be  destroyed  in  a 
short  time. 

Birds. — When  the  plants  are  quite  young  one 
can  easily  keep  the  birds  at  bay  by  the  free  use 
of  strong  black  thread,  with  which  a  perfect 
network  is  formed  over  the  rows,  or  by  the 
utilisation  of  one  of  the  special  guards  that  can 
be  cheaply  procured  from  the  horticultural 
sundriesman,  so  we  need  not  further  discuss 
them  at  that  stage.  What  has  always  beaten  me 
is  to  prevent  the  nipping  off  of  the  buds,  in  which 
the  sparrow  appears  to  take  as  keen  a  delight  as 
he  does  when  he  is  directing  his  energetic,  though 
misdirected,  attentions  to  the  yellow  Crocuses  in 
spring.  Scarers  of  various  forms  have  been  tried 
and  found  wanting,  for  the  birds  are  not  long 
before  they  become  so  friendly  with  them  that 
they  use  them  as  resting-places  from  their  arduous 
labours.  If  any  fellow-reader  and  enthusiast  can 
put  me  on  the  right  road  in  this  matter  I  shall 
be  most  grateful.  I  may  say  that  I  have  tried 
flappers  of  various  materials,  reflecting  glasses, 
the  tails  of  kites  and  dummies  in  new  and  old 
clothes,  with  the  same  unsatisfactory  results. 

Green  Flv. — This  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the 
worst  enemies  of  the  Swest  Pea-grower,  for, 
unless  he  is  most  keenly  on  the  alert,  by  the 
time  he  discovers  the  attack  there  are  a  few 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  enemies  on  the  plants 
sucking  out  their  juices  and  positively  defying 
any  ordinary  methods  of  extirpation.  The  pinch 
of  snuft  or  slight  dusting  with  Tobacco  powder, 
which  answers  so  admirably  when  there  are  only 
one  or  two  pests  present,  is  practically  useless 
when  they  have  made  themselves  at  home  on  the 
plants,  and  nothing  short  of  drastic  remedies  will 
suffice.  The  point  for  the  grower  to  particularly 
observe  is  to  keep  such^olose  watch  at  all  seasons 
that    when    the    first    green "  fly  f comes    it     is 


instantly  killed,  when  little,  if  any,  real  trouble 
will  be  experienced.  If,  however,  the  pest 
gets  established,  let  prompt  steps  be  taken  to 
apply  one  of  the  many  excellent  insecticides  that 
are  oflFered  ready  for  use,  or  make  up  a  mixture 
at  home,  and  if,  in  either  event,  one  application 
does  not  effect  a  riddance,  follow  with  one,  two 
or  three  others,  as  may  be  necessary,  to  complete 
a  perfect  operation.  As  a  home-compounded 
solution,  one  of  the  simplest  and,  at  the  same  time, 
most  effectual  is  made  of  8oz.  each  of  quassia 
and  soft  soap  (both  boiled),  a  wineglassful  of 
paraffin  and  a  gallon  of  water.  To  ensure 
amalgamation  of  the  oil  with  the  water  add  it 
when  the  latter  is  furiously  boiling,  but  after  the 
pan  containing  it  has  been  removed  from  the  fire. 
The  dressing  is  best  applied  through  a  small 
spraying  syringe  throwing  a  very  fine  film  of 
solution,  which  will  stick  to  anything  that  it 
reaches.  Spencer. 


BROOMS  FOR  THE  ROCK  GARDEN. 

The  Brooms  are  general  favourites  in  the  garden, 
for  all  are  distinctly  ornamental,  rarely  fail  to 
produce  a  full  crop  of  flowers  and  are  easily  culti- 
vated. The  tall-growing  ones  are  possibly  the 
best  known,  though  they  are  no  mortj  beautiful 
in  their  respective  positions  than  the  dwarf  or 
prostrate  growing  sorts  are  in  theirs.  These 
dwarf-growing  varieties  are  useful  for  several 
purposes,  such  as  a  groundwork  for  beds  of  taller- 
growing  subjects,  for  covering  dry  banks,  or  for 
grouping  on  rookwork  or  rooteries.  For  the 
latter  purpose  they  are  peculiarly  adapted  and 
always  give  a  good  account  of  themselves.  All 
are  of  easy  cultivation,  and  give  little  trouble 
w  hen  once  established.  They  thrive  best  in  light 
loam,  but  are  not  very  fastidious  regarding  soil. 
Some  may  be  increased  by  means  of  seeds  and 
others  from  cuttings  of  semi-ripe  shoots  placed 
in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame  in  August. 

With  a  few  exceptions,  to  which  attention  is 
directed  later,  very  little  in  the  way  of  pruning 
is  required  other  than  the  removal  of  the  flower- 


A    VIEW    OF    A    I'URTIU.N     ol 


lilli    BEAtTiKDI,    DAFFODIL    SHOW    AT    BlKMINllHAM    (MR.    PEThK    liAKK,     V.M.H.,    AND 
MR.    E.    M.    CROSFIELD  ARE   IN   THE   FOREGROUND). 


heads  before  seeds  are  able  to  form.  As  a  rule 
they  are  not  long-lived  plants,  and  as  soon  as 
they  have  passed  their  best,  which  may  be  at  the 
age  of  eight  or  ten  years,  they  should  be  destroyed 
and  a  fresh  start  made  with  young  plants. 
Young,  vigorous  plants  are  always  the  most 
satisfactory,  and,  as  all  can  be  easily  increased, 
it  is  a  mistake  to  keep  plants  too  long.  The 
prostrate-grovring  sorts  are  excellent  for  placing 
in  positions  where  the  branches  can  trail  over 
rocks  or  roots,  the  long  streamers  during  the 
flowering  period  being  perfectly  covered  with 
bloom.  Of  suitable  sorts,  some  are  good  species, 
others  selected  varieties  and  a  few  hybrids. 

Taking  the  latter,  we  find  that  the  dwarf  ones 
are  few  in  number.  The  two  best  are  Cytisus 
kewensis  and  C.  Beanii.  Both  are  natural 
hybrids  which  originated  at  Kew,  the  female 
parent  in  both  instances  being  the  pretty  alpine 
species,  C.  Ardoinii.  C.  kewensis  forms  long, 
prostrate  branches  sparingly  clothed  with  three- 
parted  leaves,  and  during  May  with  an  abund- 
ance of  creamy  white  flowers.  The  second  parent 
is  considered  to  be  C.  albus.  An  idea  of  the 
habit  and  floriferous  character  of  C.  kewensis 
may  be  gleaned  from  the  illustration  on  page  228. 
C.  Beanii  differs  from  the  last  named  by 
forming  somewhat  shorter  growths,  which  rise 
rather  higher  from  the  ground,  and  by  its  golden 
flowers.  It  blooms  with  great  freedom,  and  is 
likely  to  become  an  extremely  popular  garden 
plant.  The  male  parent  of  this  hybrid  is  thought 
to  be  C.  purgans.  Both  plants  may  be  seen  at 
Kew  on  the  rockery,  and  they  are  also  used  as  a 
carpet  for  beds  of  other  shrubs.  A  third  dwarf 
hybrid  is  also  grown  at  Kew.  This  approaches 
C.  Beanii  in  appearance,  the  colour  being  similar, 
but  the  habit  is  different ;  the  shoots  are  shorter 
and  the  plant  taller.  A  hybrid  known  as  C. 
versicolor  is  mentioned  with  C.  purpureus. 

Glancing  from  the  hybrids  to  the  species,  we  find 
the  female  parent  of  the  above-mentioned  sorts 
(C.  Ardoinii)  a  most  estimable  plant.  It  is  a 
native  of  the  Maritime  Alps,  and  grows  but  a 
few  inches  high.  It,  however,  blossoms  freely 
in  May  and  forms  a 
beautiful  golden 
mass.  C.  deoumbens 
is  another  prostrate 
grower,  which  rises 
scarcely  a  couple  of 
inches  above  the 
ground,  except  when  in 
bloom  in  May.  At  that 
period  short  racemes 
are  borne  which  cover 
the  ground  with  a 
mantle  of  gold.  A  dis- 
tinct contrast  to  the  last 
named  is  found  in  C. 
leucanthus.  This  is  a 
little-known  plant  from 
the  Balkan  States, 
rather  more  leafy  than 
the  majority  of  Brooms, 
and  bears  rounded 
heads  of  white  or  cream 
flowers  towards  the  end 
of  May.  It  is  an  ex- 
cellent rockery  plant, 
though  in  some  com- 
mercial establishments 
it  is  rarely  met  with 
except  grafted  on  stems 
of  Laburnum  2  feet  or 
.3  feet  high,  when  it 
develops  largeumbrella- 
like  heads.  It  has 
been  known  by  several 
names,  two  fairly  well- 
known  ones  being 
frivaldskyanus  and 
schipkEensis. 

The  Purple-flowered 
Broom  (C.  purpureus)  is 
a  delightful  plant  when 
seen    at   its    best.      A 


I 


May  8,  1909.) 


THE     GAKDEN. 


227 


native  of  Eastern  Europe,  it  grows  to  a  height  of 
from  12  inches  to  18  inches,  with  long,  arching 
branches,  which,  towards  the  end  of  May,  are 
clothed  with  beautiful  purplish  blossoms.  This 
species  is  one  that  requires  a  little  attention  from 
the  pruner.  If,  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are  over, 
the  old  growths  are  removed  to  where  young  ones 
are  starting  from,  far  more  satisfactory  results 
will  be  obtained  the  following  year  than  if  no 
pruning  had  been  done.  C.  versicolor  is  by  some 
considered  to  be  oE  hybrid  origin,  with  C. 
purpureus  as  the  female  parent.  The  flowers  are 
paler  coloured  than  are  those  of  the  last  named. 

In  addition  to  the  various  Cytisuses,  several 
Genistas  have  to  be  taken  into  consideration  when 
dealing  with  the  dwarf  Brooms.  G.  hispanica 
(the  Spanish  Gorse)  is  a  decidedly  worthy 
plant  for  a  bold  mass  towards  the  top  of  a  rockery 
where  it  will  obtain  plenty  of  sun.  It  is  also 
well  adapted  for  planting  on  bare  banks  in  a 
light  and  open  position.  l3o  not  plant  thickly,  as 
each  plant  ought  to  be  able  to  develop  without 
crowding  its  neighbour.  Under  favourable  con- 
ditions it  grows  IJ  feet  to  2  feet  high,  and 
each  plant  during  part  of  May  and  June 
represents  a  golden  globe.  G.  dalmatica  may 
aptly  be  described  as  a  miniature  Spanish  Gorse, 
for  it  is  similar  in  every  respect  except  that  it 
rarely  exceeds  a  few  inches  in  height.  G. 
horrida  is  an  intensely  spiny  plant  from  Southern 
France  and  Spain.  Though  interesting,  it  is  less 
beautiful  than  many  of  the  others.  Another 
highly  decorative  plant  is  found  in  G.  pilosa. 
This  forms  a  wide  spreading  bush  I4  feet  high, 
which  bears  golden  flowers  freely.  A  dwarf 
form  of  it  is  known  under  the  name  of  prostrata. 
G.  S'lgittilis  is  distinct  from  everything  else  by 
reason  of  its  winged  stems.  The  flowers  are  in 
upright  racemes  and  are  golden  in  colour.  A 
double-flowered  form  of  the  Dyer's  Greenweed  (G. 
tinctoria  flore-pleno)  concludes  our  list.  Though 
this  is  a  very  floriferous  plant  and  gorgeous 
when  in  bloom,  it  has  a  serious  defect,  for  it  is 
frequently  attacked  by  a  grey  aphis  in  summer 
and  becomes  unsightly.  By  making  a  selection 
of  the  above-mentioned  plants,  anyone  might 
have  very  showy  groups  or  masses  which  would 
not  fail  to  be  greatly  admired.  W.  D. 


DAFFODILS  IN  GEASS. 
The  Daffodil,  although  largely  grown  in  beds  and 
borders,  is  seen  to  much  greater  advantage  in  the 
wild  garden.  Amid  the  natural  surroundings 
of  trees  and  shrubs,  skirting  the  edges  of  wood- 
land walks,  on  the  outer  edges  of  the  lawn,  or 
grouped  naturally  along  a  grass  vista  as  seen  in 
the  illustration,  the  effect  is  much  more  pleasing 
than  when  grown  in  formal  beds  like  so  many 
penned-up  sheep.  Daffodil-time  at  Kew,  when 
the  woods  are  aglow  with  thousands  of  blossoms 
nodding  in  the  breeze  and  the  deciduous  trees 
are  pushing  into  leaf,  is  by  many  frequenters  of 
the  Gardens  considered  the  beat  time  of  the 
whole  year. 

Natural  planting  is  difficult  to  many,  the 
tendency  being  to  plant  in  lines  or  formal  masses. 
Nature,  in  her  arrangement  of  our  wild  flowers, 
should  be  copied  as  far  as  possible.  In  small 
gardens  it  is  difEeult  to  do  any  wild  gardening  ; 
but  the  outer  fringe  of  the  lawn  bordering  the 
shrubbery  can  sometimes  be  given  over  in  spring 
to  Daff'odils,  the  grass  not  being  mown  till  they 
die  down  in  June. 

Among  the  many  varieties  grown,  the  older 
and  cheaper  sorts  are  quite  equal,  if  not  prefer- 
able, to  the  high-priced  sorts  for  the  wild  garden. 
The  common  double  Daffodil  {Telamonius  plenus), 
which  is  shown  in  the  illustration,  is  unsurpassed 
for  planting  in  the  grass,  and  is  especially 
effective  at  a  distance.  It  is  also  one  of  the 
earliest  to  bloom,  opening  almost  as  early  as  N. 
pallidus  prtecox  and  the  Tenby  Daffodil  (N. 
obvallaris).  Excellent  varieties  for  the  wild 
garden  to  follow  the  three  named  are  Emperor, 
Empress,  Sir  Watkin  *nd  Johnstoni  Queen  of 
Spain,  A.  O. 


THE     GREENHOUSE 


THE  SMALL  GREENHOUSE  FOR 

PLEASURE    AND    PROFIT. 

(Continued   from   page    213.) 

THE  FUCHSIA.  — This  is  ever  a 
favourite  with  the  amateur,  and  there 
is  no  plant  more  easily  cultivated. 
As  already  pointed  out,  the  plants 
may  be  stored  beneath  the  stage  in 
winter-time,  to  be  brought  forth  in 
February  for  pruning  and  growing  on  for  summer 
flowering.  When  first  brought  from  their  winter 
quarters  the  plants  should  be  well  pruned  back, 
cutting  away  all  thin  and  poor  shoots  and  leaving 


briefly  we  may  look  at  what  is  best  for  the  winter 
season.  Of  these  some  important  plants  are  Chry- 
santhemums, Zonal  Pelargoniums  and  Carnations. 

Ghrysanthermims. — For  obtaining  autumn  and 
winter  flowers  of  these  cuttings  should  be  rooted 
from  January  to  March,  potted  into  small  pots 
and  subsequently  into  pots  8  inches  or  9  inches 
across  for  flowering.  Good  rich  soil  is  necessary 
for  these  plants,  and  it  is  most  important  that 
the  young  specimens  receive  no  check  at  any 
time  and  be  grown  on  quickly.  Fresh  cuttings 
will  root  easily  in  sandy  soil,  and  when  rooted 
the  young  plants  should  be  potted  and  placed  in 
a  cold  frame.  Artificial  heat  is  weakening  to 
the  plants  and  should  not  be  applied. 

Zonal  Pelargoniums. — There  are  no  winter- 
flowering  subjects  more  showy  or  beautiful  than 


NARCISSOa   TELAMONIDS   PLKNUS   IN  THE  GRASS   IN   THE  KOYAL   GARDENS,    KEW. 


only  a  few  quite  strong  ones.  These  old  shoots 
will  break  into  new  growth  in  a  short  time,  and 
for  ten  days  after  pruning  no  water  must  be 
given  at  all.  When  the  new  shoots  are  in  sight 
the  plants  may  be  repotted,  shaking  away  a  por- 
tion of  the  old  soil  during  the  operation,  so  that 
the  new  roots  may  have  the  benefit  of  new  soil. 
Fresh  turfy  loam,  leaf-mould  and  sand,  with  a 
fourth  part  manure,  will  prove  a  suitable  mixture 
of  soils  for  repotting  the  plants,  and  the  potting 
must  be  firmly  done.  Water  must  be  given 
sparingly  till  the  plants  are  in  full  growth.  A 
similar  mixture  of  soil  will  do  for  Zonal  and  Ivy- 
leavtd  Pelargoniums  (Geraniums),  all  of  which 
may  now  be  taken  in  hand  at  the  same  time  and 
prepared  for  their  summer  flowering. 

Tuberous  Begonias.  —  As  a  summer-flowering 
plant  in  such  a  greenhouse  as  that  specified  the 
Begonia  is  superb,  and  at  any  moment  from  the 
middle  of  January  the  plants  may  be  started  into 
new  growth.  By  "starting"  is  meant  that  the 
old  tubers  may  be  knocked  out  of  the  pots, 
divested  of  about  half  the  soil  from  their  roots, 
and  potted  into  clein  pots  of  fresh  soil,  that  com- 
posed of  peat,  loam,  leaf-soil  and  sand  in  about 
equal  parts  being  the  best.  Repot  the  plants  so 
that  the  top  or  crown  of  the  old  tuber,  or  bulb, 
as  some  may  call  it,  is  covered  by  half  an  inch  of 
soil.  Work  the  soil  carefully  and  well  around 
and  below  the  tuber,  and  if  the  soil  be  moderately 
moist  give  no  water  for  a  few  days.  For  some 
time  after  potting  the  plants  may  stand  close 
together,  giving  them  full  room  when  this  is 
available.  For  all  the  above-named  crops  a  tem- 
perature ranging  between  50"  and  60°  will  do 
quite  well  during  winter  and  early  spring,  that 
of  50"  being  ample  during  the  colder  weather. 
During  summer  an  increase  by  sunheat  will 
assuredly  result. 

We  have  seen  what  may  be  grown,  both  of  fruit 
and  flowers,  for  the  summer  months,  and  now 


these,  nor  more  simple  in  their  cultural  require- 
ments provided  a  few  details  are  followed.  A 
chief  item  is  that  the  cuttings  be  rooted  in 
spring,  potted  singly  into  small  pots  and  in  early 
June  repotted  into  5-inch  or  6-inch  pots,  in 
which  size  they  are  to  flower.  In  June,  when 
the  last-named  potting  is  done,  the  plants  must 
be  put  outside  in  a  sunny  spot  and  all  flower- 
spikes  removed  as  they  appear  to  the  end  of 
August.  The  points  of  all  shoots  should  be 
removed  in  early  July  and  in  August  to  create 
a  bushy  growth,  and  careful  watering  must  be 
attended  to.  Late  in  August  or  during  Sep- 
tember the  plants  may  be  removed  to  a  cold 
frame — for  such  a  frame  should  always  exist  as 
an  adjunct  to  the  greenhouse — or  to  the  green- 
house if  the  latter  is  at  liberty.  It  is  more  than 
likely  it  will  not  be  if  the  rotation  of  crops  given 
is  adhered  to.  Rather  poor  soil  should  always 
be  employed  for  these  Pelargoniums  by  reason  of 
its  tendency  to  promote  a  firm  growth,  which  in 
these  plants  is  so  very  necessary  to  flowering.  A 
few  dozen  trusses  of  these  Pelargoniums  in 
winter-time  make  a  most  attractive  display. 

The  Winter  Gamationa. — -We  have  nothing 
more  valuable  than  these,  nothing  in  which  the 
amateur  prides  himself  so  much  when  he  is  able 
to  do  full  justice  to  the  plants.  To  secure 
success  and  a  succession  of  bloom,  cuttings  must 
be  rooted  from  .January  to  the  end  of  March, 
the  young  plants  potted  as  soon  as  rooted  into 
small  pots  and  from  these  into  larger  pots  in  quick 
succession,  say,  at  intervals  of  a  month  or  so. 
The  points  of  the  shoots  should  be  twice  or  thrice 
removed,  but  stopping  must  not  be  done  after 
mid-July.  By  the  end  of  May  the  strongest 
plants  should  be  in  their  flowering  pots,  and  these 
should  be  not  less  than  6  inches  or  7  inches  in 
diameter.  The  other  plants  must  be  potted  as 
required,  but  the  potting  should  be  concluded  by 
the  end  of  June.      Loamy  soil,  not  too  light,  leaf 


228 


THE     (lAKl)EN. 


(May  8,  1909. 


mould,  old  manure  to  about  one-fourth  and  a  like  | 
amount  of  sharp  sand,  with  a  6-inoh  pot  f ul  of 
bone-meal  to  each  two  bushels  of  the  soil,  will 
make  an  ideal  mixture.  Moderately  firm  potting 
is  very  necessary,  and  very  careful  watering  in 
all  stages  of  growth.  Larger  pots  than  those 
named  may  be  used  with  freer  drainage. 
Many  of  the  newer  Carnations,  by  reason  of  their 
vigour  of  growth,  require  more  liberal  treatment. 
Staking  and  tying  must  be  duly  attended  to  and 
the  plants  housed  in  early  September.  In  this 
way,  and  by  growing  the  crops  I  have  named,  it 
is  possible  to  garden  on  a  varied  scale  in  a 
comparatively  small  way,  and  to  realise  that  a 
garden  and  a  greenhouse  may  be  not  only  a  source 
of  pleasure,  but  of  profit  also. 

Hamylon  Hill.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


SUMMER  TREATMENT   OF  WINTER- 
FLOWERING     HARD    -   WOODED 
PLANTS. 
What   the    professional    or    amateur   gardener 
would  do   without  the  aid   of    flowering   hard- 


these  plants  the  benefit  of  a  warm  vinery  or 
other  heated  structure,  so  that  these  new  growths 
may  proceed  without  interruption  until  the 
weather  is  sufficiently  genial  for  them  to  be 
placed  outdoors,  which,  usually,  is  not  until 
about  the  beginning  of  June. 

Any  repotting  that  is  required  should  be  done 

as  soon  as  the  flowers  have  faded,  so  that  the 

plants    may    have   the   earliest   opportunity    of 

acquiring   new    food    and    the    longest    possible 

period  of  enjoying  it,  and  that  the  new  growths 

may  be  sturdily  grown  and  duly  ripenedf.     Any 

pruning  the  plants  may   require  should  also  be 

attended  to  at  the  time  of  repotting,  as  most  of 

them  depend  on   the  new  growths  for  the  next 

show  of  bloom.     Azaleas  may  generally  be  kept 

1  jn  good  shape  by  tying  in  any  growths  given  to 

[  straggle,  and  in  the  case  of  some  of  the  more 

vigorous-growing  Mollis   varieties,  a  sharp  bend 

I  in   a   long   growth    will    frequently    induce   the 

1  plants  to  break  back,  which  is  better  than  sacri- 

j  ficing  lengths  of  good  wood  to  obtain  the  same 

end.     All  seed  vessels  should  be  picked  or  cut  off 

as  soon  as  the  flowers  are  over,   aa  any  that  by 


to  the  newly  formed  wood,  helping  to  plump  up 
the  flower-buds.  Thrips  and  red  spider  may 
be  kept  down  by  the  use  of  the  syringe  or  garden 
engine  charged  with  clear  soft  water,  especially 
if  used  towards  the  evening  after  the  hot  sun 
has  ceased  to  shine  on  the  plants.  Azaleas  of 
the  Indian  species  and  Genistas  should  be  taken 
indoors  by  the  end  of  September.  The  hardy 
Azaleas  and  Heaths,  Deutzias,  Laurels  and 
Camellias  may  stay  outside  till  towards  the  end 
of  October,  when  they  may  be  placed  in  a  cold 
pit,  or  the  Camellias  may  at  once  be  taken  to  the 
greenhouse  or  conservatory  if  they  are  too  large 
for  ordinary  pits.  Hard-wooded  plants  pay  well 
for  good  cultivation,  and  if  they  are  to  be  forced 
into  flower  early  it  is  of  vital  importance  that 
the  wood  be  well  matured  as  early  in  the  season 
as  possible.  Midland. 


CVTISOS    KEWENSI8    IN    THE   ROCK    (JAP.DKN   AT    KEW.      (.SVc  page  ;".''•'.) 


wooded  subjects  for  the  decoration  of  room, 
corridor  or  conservatory  during  the  winter  and 
early  spring  months  it  is  hard  to  imagine ;  there- 
fore it  behoves  him  to  devote  a  little  special 
attention  to  those  plants  that  have  already  served 
him  so  well.  The  group  comprises  several  kinds, 
of  which  the  following  are  chiefly  met  with  : 
Azaleas  (both  Indian  and  American),  Rhododen- 
drons, Deutzias,  Lilacs,  Ericas,  Camellias  and 
Genistas.  Whether  they  are  forced  into  flower 
early  or  allowed  to  come  along  gradually,  their 
after-treatment  must  be  the  same.  In  all 
the  subjects  above-mentioned  young  growth 
follows  immediately  after  flowering,  and  at  this 
period  it  is  essential  to  future  success  that  this 
new  growth  receive  all  the  encouragement 
obtainable,  so  that  next  season's  flowers  are  as 
much  a  certainty  as  the  one  just  past.  To  place 
the  plants  in  a  cold  house  or  frame  immediately 
after  the  flowers  are  over,  as  is  often  done,  serves 
no  other  purpose  than  to  give  them  a  severe  check, 
from  which  it  takes  them  weeks  and  sometimes 
months  to  recover,  and  in  some  instances 
absolute  ruin  follows.      It  is  best  to  try  to  give 


chance  may  have  become  fertilised  will  make  a 
further  extra  demand  on  the  resources  of  the 
plant. 

From  the  middle  of  May  to  early  June  a  gradual 
hardening  process  should  be  introduced,  at  the 
end  of  which,  weather  conditions  being  favour- 
able, the  whole  group  may  be  stood  outside. 
Here,  again,  many  make  the  mistake  of  placing 
the  iplants  in  total  shade,  under  the  erroneous 
idea  that  because  they  require  less  attention  from 
the  watering-can  and  syringe  the  plants  do  better. 
Many  years  of  practice  have  convinced  the  writer 
that  placing  plants  of  this  class  under  a  wall  with 
an  eastern  aspect,  or  in  full  sun  if  provision  can 
be  made  for  plunging  the  pots  up  to  their  rims 
in  coal-ashes,  is  conducive  to  better  growth  and 
ultimate  success.  True,  both  syringe  and 
watering-can  are  in  more  frequent  demand,  but 
the  thorough  ripening  of  the  new  wood,  which  is 
of  supreme  importance  to  future  successful 
flowering,  more  than  compensates  for  the  little 
extra  trouble  entailed  by  the  latter  method  A 
weekly  watering  with  weak  liquid  manure  from 
July  to  the  end  of  September  is  of  great  benefit 


COLOURED     PLATE. 

PLATK    1873. 


CARNATION   QUEEN   OF  SPAIN. 

AYELLOW  Perpetual-flowering  Carna- 
tion has  long  been  sought  after  by 
growers  of  these  plants,  and  we  have 
therefore  great  pleasure  in  presenting 
a  coloured  plate  of  the  new  variety 
Queen  of  Spain.  This  was  raised  by 
Messrs.  Backhouse  and  Sons  of  York,  to  whom 
we  are  indebted  for  the  blooms  from  which  the 
plate  was  prepared.  As  will  be  seen,  the  flowers 
are  of  splendid  form,  possessing  good  depth,  and 
they  are  borne  on  good,  stout  stems.  The  habit 
of  the  plant  is  vigorous  and  robust,  those  we 
saw  growing  in  the  firm's  nursery  last  summer 
being  exceedingly  healthy. 


THE   KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


HOW  TO  GROW  TOMATOES 
OUTDOORS. 

EVERY^  year  the  culture  of  Tomatoes  in 
the  open  is  attempted  by  thousands  of 
growers  in  this  country,  and  their 
efforts  are  generally  crowned  with 
more  or  less  success.  That  these 
plants  can  be  successfully  grown  out- 
doors in  this  country  has  been  proved  over  and 
over  again  ;  but  the  crop  of  fruit  will  depend 
chiefly  on  three  things,  viz. ,  weather,  the  condi- 
tion of  the  plants  when  put  out  and  the  varieties 
chosen.  Of  course,  there  are  other  important 
details  to  be  observed,  but  the  points  above 
enumerated  are  of  supreme  importance. 

Without  an  average  amount  of  sunshine  it  is 
certain  that  the  work  will  be  doomed  to  partial 
or  total  failure,  but  given  this,  we  are  well  on  the 
road  to  success.  The  condition  of  the  plants 
when  placed  in  their  permanent  quarters  is  ol 
even  greater  importance,  because,  if  too  small  or 
stunted,  no  amount  of  sunshine  will  induce  them 
to  produce  good  fruits.  An  ideal  plant  is  one 
that  is  short-jointed  and  bearing  robust  foliage, 
with  two  or  three  small  green  fruits  present. 
Failing  these  fruits,  flowers  at  least  should  be 
visible.  Except  in  very  favoured  localities  and 
situations,  plants  more  backward  than  such  as 
those  described  will  scarcely  pay  for  planting  out. 
Leaving  the  question  of  varieties  for  the  time 
being,  we  will  now  turn  our  attention  to  the 
preparation  of  the  soil  and  the  putting  out  of  the 
plants.  With  amateurs,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  the 
majority  of  Tomato  plants  are  ruined,  so  far,  at 
least,  as  fruiting  is  concerned,  by  planting  them 
in  soil  which  is  too  rich,  with  the  result  that 
foliage  is  produced  at  the  expense  of  fruits.  The 
soil  for  Tomatoes  should  have  been  well  manured 
for  the  previous  crop,  and  then  deep  digging  will 
be  the  only  preparation  needed.  Where,  how- 
ever, such  is  not  available,  a  moderate  dressing 
of  partially  or  wholly  decayed  manure  may  be 


May  8,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


229 


dug  in.  As  regards  texture,  a  good,  workable 
loam  that  is  well  drained  may  be  regarded  as 
ideal.  Naturally  the  warmest  site  available  in 
the  garden  should  be  chosen  for  this  crop,  a 
border  sheltered  from  north  and  east  winds  being 
the  most  suitable. 

Planting  out  cannot  be  done  with  absolute 
safety  until  the  last  week  in  May  or  the  first 
week  in  June  ;  but  previous  to  this  the  plants 
should  have  been  fully  exposed  during  the  day- 
time for  at  least  three  weeks.  The  distance 
apart  to  plant  will  vary 
a  little  according  to  the 
variety,  but  rows  4  feet 
apart  and  the  plants 
•2  feet  asunder  is  a  good 
distance  to  obssrve.  The 
soil  should  be  made 
moderately  firm  around 
the  ball  of  earth  and 
roots,  and  a  slight 
I  lepreseion  or  pan  should 
I  le  left  round  each  plant, 
;i9  this  will  greatly  facili- 
t  ate  watering,  which  will 
I  '6  needed  as  soon  as  the 
1  ilants  are  put  in  and  also 
;it  frequent  intervals 
I  luring  dry  weather, 
^vhen  growth  is  active. 
.Stakes,  too,  must  be 
)ilaoed  to  the  plants 
.lirectly  they  are  put 
nut,  the  stems  being 
lightly  tied  to  these 
with  broad  strands  of 
I'aftia. 

After-treatment  of  the 
plants  will  consist  in 
watering  during  dry 
weather  as  stated  above, 
keeping  down  all  weeds 
and,  most  important  of 
all,  the  pinching  out  of 
all  side-shoots  as  quickly 
as  they  appear,  thus 
keeping  the  plant  to  one 
stem.  During  dry 
weather  if  a  mulching 
of  short,  thoroughly 
rotted  manure  can  be 
placed  over  the  roots  it 
will  be  of  considerable 
benefit  to  the  plants. 
The  question  of  feeding 
Tomatoes  is  a  rather 
vexed  one,  and  it  is 
certain  that  unless  it 
is  carefully  and  intelli- 
gently carried  out  more 
harm  than  good  will  be 
done.  It  must  not  be 
attempted  until  several 
clusters  of  fruit  are  set 
and  commeneingtoswell; 
then  a  watering  once  in 
ten  days  with  loz-  of 
superphosphate  and  halt 
an  ounce  of  nitrate  of 
potash  dissolved  in  two 
gallons  of  water  will 
assist  the  swelling  and 
colouring  of  the  fruit. 
When  four  bunches  of 
fruit  have  been  set  it  is 
advisable  to  pinch  out 
the    top   of    the    plant, 

and   late  in  the  season  "'-  ,__ 

those  leaves  which  hang 
<lireotly  in  front  of  the 

fruits  may  also  be  taken  away.  The  wholesale 
removal  of  foliage,  however,  must  not  be 
attempted.  As  regards  varieties  there  is  certain 
to  be  a  diversity  of  opinion,  but  the  following 
are  all  reliable  and  worth  growing :  Sutton's 
Earliest  of  All,  Sutton's  Open  Air,  Early  Market, 
Carter's  Sunrise  and  Outdoor.  K. 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN 


ROSE    WHETE    KILLARNEY. 


1  HIS  is  a  large  and  beautiful,  pure  white 
sport  from  the  old  favourite  Killarney, 
and  originated  in  America,  where  it 
is  already  being  used  extensively  for 
forcing  purposes.  Owing  to  the  enter- 
prise of  Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co. 
of  Enfield  visitors  to   the  Royal   Horticultural 


T 


of  a  very  robusfcharaeter.  We  think  there  is  a 
great  future  in  store  for  this  latest  addition  to 
the  great  race  of  Hybrid  Teas. 

ROSE  PARADISE. 
Mr.  M.  H.  Walsh  of  Wood's  Hole,  Massa- 
chusetts, may  be  looked  upon  as  the  most 
successful  raiser  of  rambler  Roses,  for  his  pro- 
ductions are  among  the  foremost  that  are  prized 
by  planters.  To  name  a  few,  there  is  Lady  Gay, 
Hiawatha,  Minnehaha,  Debutante,  Sweetheart, 
Evangeline,  Delight,  Babette,  Wedding  Bells 
and  the  variety  named  Paradise.  This  surely  is 
a  grand  group,  and  I  only  hope  Mr.  Walsh  will 
continue  to  produce  distinct  and  equally  charming 
sorts.  That  Paradise  will  become  very  popular 
I  have  not  the  least  doubt.  I 
know  of  no  Rose  of  such  quaint 
beauty,  every  little  pink  and 
white  flower  resembling  a 
Maltese  cross,  excepting  that 
there  are  five  divisions  instead 
of  four.  The  sprays  are  large 
and  elegant,  enabling  the  floral 
artist  to  use  them  with  very 
telling  effect,  and,  moreover, 
they  are  so  very  durable. 
As  most  growers  are  aware, 
there  are  two  distinct  groups 
of  the  wichuraiana  Roses,  those 
that  favour  the  Tea  Roses 
and    produce     their     blooms 


TlIK    NEW   KOSE 


WHITE     KILLARNEY 


(Naturnl  nize.i 


Society's  meeting  on  the  20th  ult.  were  able  to  see 
blooms  of  it,  these  arriving  with  their  traveller, 
however,  just  too  late  for  the  committee  to  see. 
The  flowers  are  considerably  larger  than  those  of 
the  type,  and  also  much  fuller,  being  of  great  depth 
and  somewhat  conical  in  shape.  The  stems  are  long 
and  very  stout,  the  deep  green  foliage  being  also 


from  one  to  five  in  a  cluster,  and  those  that 
resemble  the  type  and  have  long  trails  of 
bloom.  Of  the  two  groups.  Paradise  resemblfs 
the  latter.  It  cannot  fail  to  make  a  delightful 
weeping  specimen,  for  its  growths  are  very 
slender,  and  to  grow  as  a  free-headed  standard 
one  could  have  nothing  prettier.  P. 


230 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  8,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK 

FLOWER  GAR  DEN. - 
very  busy  time  in 
as  there  will  always 
The  final  staking  of 
now  or  shortly  need 
eare  to  thrust  the 
the  ground  and  leave  the  tops 
The  plants  should  be  induced 


BY  WEEK. 
-The  present  is  a 
this  department, 
be  plenty  to  do. 
Sweet  Peas  will 
to  be  done  ;  take 
sticks  well  into 
somewhat  open, 
to  climb  outside 


I. — THE    PROPER    WAY   TO    PLANT   SiVEBT    PEAS    IN    CLUMPS.        THE 
CLtTMP   OR  CIRCLE  SHOOLD   BE   ABOUT  2   FEET  IN   DIAMETER. 


the  supports.  Where  thinning  the  annuals  is 
being  performed  as  advised  last  week,  it  fre- 
quently happens  that  blank  spaces  occur,  and  it 
is  often  easy  enough  to  transplant  some  of  the 
seedlings  to  those  positions,  especially  when  the 
soil  is  damp  as  a  result  of  recent  rains.  The 
present  is  a  good  time  to  plant  out  Hollyhocks, 
and  where  these  old-fashioned  flowers  are 
appreciated  a  few  should  be  put  in.  Most 
nurserymen  supply  plants  suitable  for  insertion 
at  the  present  time.  Cottage  and  Darwin  Tulips 
are  now  opening  their  flowers,  and  where  the 
position  is  much  exposed  to  strong  winds  it  is 
probable  that  supports  in  the  form  of  thin  stakes 
will  be  needed ;  this  must,  however,  be  done 
with  care  so  as  to  avoid  an  artificial  look  in 
either  beds  or  clumps.  Attend  to  the  training 
and  tying  of  Clematises,  which  are  now  growing 
away  freely  ;  if  left  long  the  growths  become 
entwined,  and  it  is  then  very  difficult  to  deal 
with  them  satisfactorily.  All  narrow  borders 
running  alongside  buildings,  walls  or  close 
fences  should  be  given  a  thorough  soaking  with 
water  about  every  ten  days,  whether  rain  falls 
or  not,  as  usually  owing  to  their  position  such 
borders  derive  but  little  benefit  from  rains. 
Prepare  the  stations  for  Dahlias  at  once.  Take 
out  a  hole  for  each  plant  1  foot  in  diameter  and 
the  same  in  depth ;  then  in  the  bottom  place 
about  4  inches  of  partially  decayed  manure  and 
fork  this  well  into  the  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the 
hole,  and  then  fill  in  with  other  soil  to  within 
2  inches  of  the  surface.  The  present  is  a  good  time 
to  mulch  Roses  with  short  manure,  Wakeley's 
Hop  Manure  answering  splendidly  for  the  purpose. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Those  who  like  Spinach 
during  the  hot  days  of  summer,  and  who  have 
a  difficulty  in  growing  the  ordinary  varieties, 
should  now  sow  a  few  seeds  of  the  New  Zealand 
Spinach.  These  quickly  grow  and  form  large, 
spreading  plants,  from  which  supplies  can  be 
gathered  until  frosts  occur  in  the  autumn.      Sow 


in  rows  4  feet  apart,  and  thin  the  seedlings  to 
9  inches  asunder.  The  earliest  sown  greens,  such 
as  Cauliflowers,  Cabbages  and  Brussels  Sprouts, 
will  now  be  ready  for  planting  out,  and  the  work 
should  be  done,  if  possible,  during  showery 
weather.  The  distance  apart  to  plant  will  vary 
according  as  the  varieties  are  naturally  large  or 
small,  but  overcrowding  must  at  all  times  be 
strictly  avoided.  Where  Marrows  have  not  been 
raised  under  glass,  a  few  seeds 
may  now  be  sown  outdoors, 
preparing  the  beds  for  them  as 
advised  for  Cucumbers  last 
week.  For  small  gardens  the 
bush  or  non-trailing  varieties 
are  best ;  and  where  high 
quality  is  preferred  to  size, 
Sutton's  Tender  and  True 
should  be  given  a  trial.  Early 
sown  crops,  such  as  Carrots, 
will  require  thinning,  and  this 
work  must  not  be  long 
deferred.  Run  the  hoe  fre- 
quently between  the  rows  of 
seedlings.  Peas  will  need 
staking,  and  the  advice  given 
in  regard  to  Sweet  Peas 
answers  equally  well  for  these. 
Other  sowings  to  maintain  the 
supply  may  now  be  made. 

Fruit  Garden.  — Attend  to 
the  pinching  and  tying  down 
of  Vine  laterals,  as  advised 
a  few  weeks  ago,  and  apply 
air  early  on  bright  mornings, 
so  that  the  sun  does  not,  in 
conjunction  with  condensed  moisture,  scald  the 
foliage.  The  ventilators  must,  however,  be  opened 
so  that  draughts  do  not  occur.  Trees  growing 
against  walls  outdoors  will  now  call  for  frequent 
soakings  with  clear  water,  and  after  a  crop  of  fruit 
has  set  and  is  swelling  freely,  weak  liquid  manure 
may  be  given  about  every  ten  days.  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  should  be  gone  over  and  the  weakest 
and  badly-placed  shoots  removed  ;  do  this  every 
few  days,  removing  a  few  shoots  at  a  time,  as 
this  is  much  better  than  completing  the  task  in 
one  operation. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames.  — Where  an  early 
bitch  of  Chinese  Primulas  and  Cinerarias  is 
desired,  some  seeds  may  now  be  sown  in  well- 
drained,  shallow  pans  or  boxes,  using  soil  com- 
posed of  loam  two  parts,  leaf-soil  or  peat  one 
part,  with  a  good  proportion  of  silver  sand 
added.  Pass  the  whole  through  a  fine-meshed 
sieve  and  retain  the  rough  portions  for  placing 
over  the  drainage,  finishing  with  the  fine 
material.  Make  the  surface  level  and  the  whole 
moderately  firm,  and  then  scatter  the  seeds 
thinly  and  evenly,  just  covering  them  lightly 
with  sand.  Stand  in  the  greenhouse  or  frame 
and  cover  with  panes  of  glass  or  brown  paper 
until  germination  has  taken  place.  H. 


PLANTING     SWEET     PEAS. 

To  grow  these  flowers  well  it  is  necessary  that 
they  should  be  planted  in  good  soil,  and  when 
determining  this  the  grower  has  to  make  up  his 
mind  which  system  of  planting  he  will  follow. 
Some  prefer  to  plant  their  Sweet  Peas  in  clumps 
of  about  half-a-dozen,  others,  again,  prefer  rows 
in  which  the  plants  are  arranged  on  either  side 
of  the  row  in  alternate  fashion,  while  others  are 
content  to  plant  a  single  row.  Frequently 
Sweet  Peas  are  planted  to  form  a  kind  of  hedge 
or  screen,  in  which  case  the  results  are  distinctly 
beautiful.     Assuming  that  the  quarters  intended 


for  the  reception  of  the  young  plants  were  care- 
fully dug  over  during  the  winter  season  and  a 
plentiful  supply  of  good  manure  incorporated  at 
the  time,  the  soil  will  now  be  ready  for  planting. 
Those  who  have  not  taken  this  precaution  must 
remedy  this  laxity  at  once  by  digging  over  the 
quarters  intended  for  the  plants.  If  they  are  to 
be  put  out  in  rows,  it  is  necessary  to  dig  out  a 
trench  some  18  inches  in  depth  and  to  place  in  the 
bottom  a  good  layer  of  thoroughly  well-rotted 
manure.  Horse-manure  should  be  used  in  the 
case  of  soils  of  a  heavy  texture,  and  those  of  a 
light  and  porous  character  will  be  benefited  by 
using  well-rotted  cow-manure,  treading  in  this 
material  and  filling  in  the  garden  soil.  In  the 
case  of  planting  in  clumps  it  is  by  far  the  better 
plan  to  take  out  a  good  wide  hole  at  each  place  in 
which  the  clump  is  to  be  planted,  and  as  these 
clumps  should  be  fully  2  feet  across,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  take  out  the  soil  18  inches  deep  and 
2  feet  6  inches  wide.  Fill  in  with  manure  ani 
soil  as  advised  for  rows. 

Now,  in  planting  Sweet  Peas  in  clumps  it  is 
customary  to  put  four  to  six  plants  only  in  the 
space  that  should  measure  2  feet  in  diameter. 
The  plants  should  be  arranged  equidistant,  so 
that  ample  space  may  be  left  for  their  develop- 
ment, otherwise  the  growths,  when  root  action  is 
vigorous  a  little  later  on,  will  become  entangled 
and  the  beauty  thereby  lost. 

Fig.  1  shows  the  method  of  planting  in  clumps  ; 
note  that  the  young  seedlings  that  have  been  well 
grown  and  carefully  matured  are  arranged  in 
proper  order  within  the  space  allocated  to  them. 
All  too  often  growers  of  Sweet  Peas  spoil  their 
chances  of  success  by  planting  them  too  close 
together.  Fig.  2  shows  the  method  usually 
adopted  by  the  inexperienced.  In  this  illustra- 
tion will  be  seen  the  close  grouping  of  the  young 
plants.  While  they  look  promising  when  planted 
in  this  way,  we  have  to  remember  that  in  the  not 
distant  future  these  same  plants  will  be  so 
intermixed  that  their  growths  will  be,  so  to 
speak,  throttled,  and  the  chanc-es  of  a  successful 


2. — THE  WRONG  METHOD  OF  PLANTING  SWEET 
PEAS  IN  CLUMPS.  THE  PLANTS  KV.V, 
TOO   CROWDED, 


May  8,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


231 


3. — THE  WAY  SMALL,  TWIGGY  STICKS  SHOULD 
BE  INSERTED  FOR  THE  EARLY  SOPPORT 
OF  THE   PLANTS. 

issue  jeopardised,  if  not  entirely  lost.  Fre- 
quently at  this  period  plants  may  be  purchased 
from  the  florist,  and  as  many  as  twenty  to 
fifty  plants  may  be  bought,  all  growing  in  one 
small  pot.  The  tendency  with  the  inexperienced 
is  just  to  transfer  these  as  a  whole  to  the  space 
made  ready  for  their  reception,  in  which  case  it 
is  absolutely  impossible  for  the  plants  to  do 
justice  to  themselves.  It  is  necessary  to  shake 
out  the  plants,  divide  them  up  individually 
and  plant  either  in  clumps  or  in  rows,  according 
to  our  requirements. 

We  will  now  turn  to  the  first  staking  of  the 
Sweet  Peas  planted  in  clumps.  It  is  necessary 
that  protection  should  be  aflforded  the  young 
plants  immediately  the  tendrils  are  apparent, 
and  short  twiggy  stakes  should  be  inserted  for 
their  support.  We  invariably  use  the  tops  of 
growths  of  the  Michaelmas  Daisy,  and  find  this 
is  admirable  material  for  the  purpose.  We  show 
in  Fig.  3  how  these  tops  may  be  used  for  the 
support  of  the  young  Sweet  Peas.  It  will  be 
observed  that  the  spriggy  kind  of  growth  is 
inserted  between  the  plants,  30  that  as  the 
tendrils  are  emitted  they  have  something  on  which 
to  fasten  immediately  they  need  this  support. 
It  is  a  mistake  to  insert  too  many  stakes,  and  if 
the  rule  advocated  be  followed,  there  is  no  reason 
whatever  why  these  small  branching  stakes  should 
not  carry  on  the  plants  to  the  next  staking,  that 
is,  the  tall  ones,  which  will  be  dealt  with  in  a 
future  issue. 

In  the  case  of  plants  required  for  rows,  there 
is  a  tendency  with  inexperienced  growers  to  sow 
or  plant  these  too  thickly  ;  inconsequence  of  this 
no  really  good  results  can  reasonably  be  expected. 
Some  growers  prefer  to  plant  out  their  Sweet 
Peas  in  one  long  continuous  row,  observing  a 
distance  varying  frum  6  inches  to  1.^  inches 
between  the  plants,  according  to  the  vigour  of 
the  variety  being  dealt  with.  We  prefer,  when 
planting  in  rows,  to  put  out  our  Sweet  Peas  in 
alternate  fashion,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Here,  it  will 
be  observed,  the  plants  are  arranged  so  that  full 
advantage  is  taken  of  the  space  in  the  row ;  that 
is  to  say,  the  row  is  commenced  with  a  plant  on 
one  side  of  it  and  succeeded  by  another  on  the 
opposite  side  at  6  inches  or  more  removed  from 
the  first  plant.  This  method  ot  planting  is 
persisted   in    throughout    the    row,    so   that   as 


the  plants  make  growth  the  stakes  which  are 
inserted  for  their  support  can  be  taken  full 
advantage  of,  and  the  larger  stakes  which  are 
placed  in  position  at  a  later  period  are  equally 
well  utilised  by  the  growths. 

It  is  well  to  point  out  at  this  period  that  as  the 
plants  are  shaken  out  of  the  pots  the  roots  should 
be  disturbed  as  little  as  possible.  Endeavour, 
after  separating  the  plants,  to  remove  the  soil 
and  roots  intact  and  place  them  in  position 
straight  away,  after  digging  a  hole  with  the 
trowel  of  sufficient  depth  to  embed  them  satis- 
factorily, and  with  some  firmness.  Immediately 
after  the  planting  out,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  sprinkle 
round  about  the  plants  with  soot,  especially  when 
the  weather  is  moist,  and  this  must  be  repeated 
at  intervals,  to  prevent  the  attacks  of  slugs, 
which  quickly  denude  the  young  plants  of  their 
foliage.  B.  B.  C. 


SALIENT    POINTS    IN    CUCUMBER 

CULTURE. 
I  WELL  remember  a  sickly  batch  ot  young 
Cucumber  plants  growing,  or  at  least  making 
an  effort  to  grow,  in  a  low  span-roofed  glass 
structure  which  was  well  supplied  with  heating 
apparatus,  and  fuel  in  the  form  of  coal  slack 
was  also  there  in  plenty.  The  Cucumber  plants, 
however,  were  very  unsatisfactory,  notwith- 
standing the  useful  appliances  that  were  at  baud 
to  aid  in  their  cultivation.  Heat  was  not 
applied,  though  the  summer  season  had  not  come. 
This  was  the  cause  of  the  failure,  which  was 
quickly  remedied  when  the  furnace  glowed  with 
hot  coals  once  more.  Now  I  know  that  many 
amateurs  and  others  like  to  practise  economy 
where  the  burning  of  fuel  is  concerned,  but  all- 
round  economy  does  not  always  result.  The 
best  economy  lie?  in  growing  these  plants 
well.  Daring  cold  weather  and  on  dull  days 
light  the  fire  and  heat  the  pipes.  Draw  out 
the  ashes  when  the  weather  is  very  fine. 

Frames. — Fire-heat  cannot  usually  be  applied 
there,  but  fresh  linings  of  warm  littery  manure 
can,  and  coverings  may  be  used  at  night. 
Watering  must  be  done  with  great  care,  and  air 
admitted  without  causing  draughts  to  blow 
directly  on  the  foliage.  Shamhcck. 


-A  POPOLAR  AND  USEFUL  METHOD  OF 
PLANTING  SWEET  PEAS  IN  ROWS,  THE 
TWO  ROWS  SHOWN  FORMING  ONE  WHEN 
GROWTH    IS   ADVANCED. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

Bulbs  foe  Summer  Bedding. — Liliums  are  very 
useful  and  ornamental  plants  for  the  flower 
garden  in  summer-time.  Lilium  auratum  (the 
Golden-rayed  Lily  of  Japan)  heads  the  list  as 
regards  popularity  ;  but  there  are  others  which 
are  equally  useful  and  quite  as  ornamental,  and, 
moreover,  do  not  cost  as  much  as  the  first  named. 
Small,  low-priced  bulbs  of  Lilium  auratum,  and, 
in  fact,  of  all  types,  are  never  satisfactory.  Such 
as  Lilium  rubrum,  L.  roseum,  L.  album  and 
L.  Melpomene  are  really  splendid  plants  for  the 
flower-beds  in  summer-time.  The  cultivator 
must  very  carefully  attend  to  the  bulbs  at  the 
present  time  ;  do  not  wait  until  the  bedding-out 
season  comes  and  then  try  to  make  good  bulbs 
out  of  bad  ones.  By  the  end  of  May  the  plants 
ought  to  be  quite  strong.  Grow  them  in  flower- 
pots. Three-parts  fill  a  6-inch  pot  with  equal 
parts  of  fibrous  loam,  leaf-soil  and  peat,  with  a 
free  admixture  of  coarse  sand,  and  then  press 
down  the  bulb,  just  leaving  the  crown  visible. 
Perhaps  the  bulbs  have  commenced  to  grow  ;  the 
spike  may  be  quite  advanced  and  the  roots 
prominent.  In  such  a  ease  it  will  be  necessary 
to  avoid  breaking  the  roots ;  otherwise  treat  them 
exactly  the  same  as  if  they  were  dormant  bulbs. 
If  any  cultivator  has  bulbs  now  growing  in  boxes, 
they  should  be  at  once  taken  out  and  placed 
separately  in  6-inch  flower-pots.  In  due  course 
the  latter,  containing  the  plants,  will  be  plunged 
in  the  soil  in  the  beds,  so  that  the  plants  may 
root  through  the  bottom  of  the  pots  as  well  as 
over  the  rims.  If  the  bulbs  are  turned  out  of  the 
pots  and  planted  in  the  bed  itself,  they  must  be 
surrounded  with  some  coarse  sand  ;  but  in  due 
course  readers  will  be  given  more  details  about  the 
planting  of  the  bulbs  and  their  after-treatment. 

Watering  Dry  Borders. — It  may  seem  out 
of  place,  or  out  of  season,  to  speak  about  water- 
ing dry  borders  ;  but  notwithstanding  the  great 
amount  of  snow,  rain  and  sleet  that  has  fallen 
lately,  there  are  many  dry  borders  to  be  found, 
mainly  those  under  walls  where  the  climbing 
plants  grow.  There  are  many  such  borders  in 
town  gardens  ;  they  are  usually  very  small  too — 
that  is,  narrow  and  shallow  and  well  filltd  with 
roots.  No  wonder,  then,  that  they  become  dry 
soon.  Examine  the  soil  1  foot  below  the  surface, 
and  if  it  is  found  rather  dry,  give  the  whole 
border  a  thorough  soaking.  I  would  mention 
here  that  it  is  advisable  to  give  frequent  applica- 
tions of  weak  liquid  manure  to  such  borders  later 
on,  when  the  growth  of  the  climbers  is  free. 
These  plants  are  very  beautiful,  and  if  removed 
from  the  walls  would  leave  the  latter  odd  in 
appearance  ;  but  how  seldom  do  they  receive  any 
attention  as  regards  feeding  with  liquid  manure  ''. 
This  can  readily  be  made  by  immersing  some 
stable  or  similar  manure  in  a  piece  of  old  sacking 
in  a  tub  of  water. 

Staking  Plants. — Hedge  stakes  are  not  easily 
obtained  in  towns,  but  Bamboo  and  ready-made 
stakes  can  be  purchased  from  the  horticultural 
Eundrieemen,  and  no  time  must  be  lost  in  getting 
in  a  stock  varying  in  length  from  7  inches  to 
4  feet.  The  former  and  near  sizes  are  useful  for 
the  support  of  pot  plants  and  small  border  sub- 
JL'Cis,  such  as  Ciirnations.  The  intermediate 
sizes  are  serviceable  for  all  kinds  of  herbaceous 
plants  and  the  tall  onts  ior  such  plants  as 
Ualilias  and  Hollyhocks.  By  all  means  have  the 
stiikts  painted  grten  ;  they  then  look  better  and 
last  longer,  abd  the  following  year  the  longest 
may  lie  shortened,  by  cutting  off  the  rotted 
portion  which  has  been  driven  into  the  soil,  and 
ustd  again  for  dwarter-growing  subjects.  Much 
skill  may  be  displayed  in  the  staking  and  tying 
up  of  various  kinds  of  plants.  Long  stakes  must 
nut  be  placed  to  dwarf  plants,  nor  very  short  ones 
to  tall  specimens,  and  great  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  make  the  flower-stems  of  the  plants  look 
like  so  many  bundles  of  faggots  tied  up.  The 
natural  habit  of  each  kind  of  plant  must  be 
retained.  Avon. 


232 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  8,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Feuits  Under  Glass. 

VINES. — Look  over  these  once  or  twice 
weekly  and  stop  all  lateral  growths 
that  are  extending  beyond  one  leaf, 
and  those  in  later  houses  to  one  or 
two  joints  above  where  the  bunches 
are  showing.  Keep  pace  with  thin- 
ning of  the  berries  when  they  have  attained  the 
size  of  Peas,  being  careful  not  to  injure  any  of 
the  berries  which  are  to  remain.  Muscats  coming 
into  flower  will  need  a  night  temperature  of  70° 
to  7-5°,  with,  if  possible,  a  chink  of  air.  Shake 
the  trellises  two  or  three  times  daily  in  bright 
weather  to  distribute  the  pollen.  Young  Vines 
planted  early  in  spring  will  now  be  growing  away 
freely ;  attend  to  the  tying  of  the  leaders, 
removing  tendrils  and  the  stopping  of  laterals. 
Give  the  roots  plenty  of  water  and  syringe 
overhead  early  in  the  afternoon  with  tepid  water, 
but  in  dull  weather  less  moisture  is  necessary,  to 
prevent  mildew.  Vines  which  have  been  struck 
from  eyes  inserted  in  small  pots  and  plunged  in 
heat  this  spring  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  their 
roots  cramped  before  repotting  takes  place.  Pot 
moderately  firm  and  keep  the  Vines  growing  in  a 
suitable  temperature,  so  that  they  do  not  ex- 
perience any  check  during  these  early  stages  of 
growth.  Any  inarching  to  be  done  should  be 
taken  in  hand  at  once.  The  variety  one  wishes 
to  substitute  should  be  grown  in  a  pot,  and  as 
soon  as  the  young  growth  is  large  enough,  stand 
the  pot  by  the  side  of  the  one  it  is  intended  to 
replace  and  inarch  on  a  similar  young  shoot, 
which  should  be  as  near  the  base  as  possible.  See 
that  the  two  cuts  correspond,  place  them  together 
and  bind  them  witli  soft  broad  raiEa,  not  too 
tightly,  and  cover  a  little  moss  round  where  the 
union  is  intended. 

Cuamibers. — These  will  now  be  fruiting  abun- 
dantly, but  take  care  not  to  over-tax  the  plants. 
A  regular  and  constant  supply  to  meet  the 
demand  should  be  the  aim.  I  usually  thin  rather 
freely  till  the  plants  have  attained  plenty  of 
strength  and  then  crop  accordingly.  Attend  well 
to  the  stopping  and  thinning  of  the  shoots  ;  also 
remove  a  few  of  the  larger  leaves  if  necessary. 
Top-dress  frequently  with  rather  rough  loam  and 
well-decayed  manure.  Supply  the  roots  at  inter- 
vals with  manure-water.  Use  the  syringe  freely 
well  beneath  the  leaves,  both  to  assist  growth  and 
prevent  red  spider.  Those  in  frames  should  now 
grow  freely.  Attend  to  the  thinning  at  intervals 
and  avoid  overcrowding  and  a  severe  thinning  at 
one  time.  Be  careful  with  ventilation. 
Plants  Under  Glass. 
Poinaettiaa. — To  obtain  fine  large  heads  the 
propagation  should  be  done  rather  early.  When 
the  young  shoots  are  about  4  inches  long,  if 
taken  from  the  old  plants  with  a  heel  and 
inserted  in  a  sandy  compost,  stood  in  a  close, 
warm  frame  and  shaded  from  the  sun,  they  will 
soon  emit  roots. 

Climbers. — Keep  all  these  neatly  tied  to  their 
allotted  positions,  remove  useless  growths  and 
decayed  leaves,  and  attend  well  to  the  roots  of 
those  growing  in  narrow  borders,  both  food  and 
water  being  needed  when  the  plants  are  grow- 
ing freely,  otherwise  the  growth  will  quickly 
assume  a  sickly  appearance  and  become  a  prey 
to  insect  pests. 

Tree  Ferns,  both  planted  out  or  growing  in 
large  tubs,  will  require  copious  supplies  of  water 
at  this  period.  Avoid  small  driblets.  The  loss 
of  large  fronds — and  sometimes  the  plants — 
might  in  some  instaoces  be  traceable  to  dryness 
of  the  roots.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wroiham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 
Vines  in  Pots. — These,  where  early  started, 
are  now  well  advanced,  "with  the  berries  pro- 
bably commencing  to  change  colour.  The  water 
supply  to  the  roots,  which  at  all  times  requires 
good  judgment,  is  more  particularly  in  need  of 
this  at  the  present  stage,  too  much  being 
inimical  to  the  health  of  the  Vines  and  likely  to 
cause  the  fruits  to  crack,  while  on  the  other  hand 
a  severe  check  arising  from  dryness  would  pro- 
duce equally  bad  results.  If  manure- water  has 
hitherto  been  given  twice  a  week,  this  must  be 
reduced  in  strength,  or  if  the  roots  have  got 
hold  of  the  surface-dressing  advised  some  weeks 
ago,  it  may  be  withheld  altogether. 

Vi7ies  Planted  Out  require  very  similar  treat- 
ment, and  as  the  roots  exist  under  more  natural 
conditions,  the  application  of  moisture,  both  to 
the  border  and  in  the  atmosphere,  may  be  still 
more  severely  reduced.  With  the  increase  of 
daylight  and"  solar  heat,  growth  becomes  more 
rapid  and  the  foliage  assiKnes  a  greater  degree  of 
robustness.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  main 
leaves  have  room  for  development ;  hence  all 
lateral  shoots  that  form  after  an  even  spread  of 
foliage  is  secured  may  be  pinched  at  the  first 
leaf  or  even  removed  entirely. 

Insect  Peats  on  Vines.  — If  mealy  bug  has  been 
in  evidence  in  previous  years,  some  have  pro- 
bably escaped  destruction  by  the  winter  dressing. 
A  close  inspection  about  the  base  of  the  shoots 
will  probably  reveal  the  presence  of  odd  insects, 
which,  if  exterminated  now,  will  prevent  the 
formation  of  a  colony  later  on.  Methylated 
spirit  applied  to  suspicious  corners  with  a  soft 
brush  will  make  the  position  uncomfortable  for 
immature  insects,  but  its  efieot  upon  those  more 
advanced  is  very  slight.  Red  spider  is  un- 
doubtedly the  worst  pest  to  which  the  Vine  is 
subjected,  and  it  is  generally  more  or  less  in  evi- 
dence. A  fruitful  cause  of  this  is  a  dry  atmosphere 
within  the  house  or  extremes  of  temperature 
outside,  which,  in  conjunction  with  bright  sun- 
shine, necessitates  the  ventilators  being  more 
widely  opened  than  one  would  like.  Little  can 
be  done  by  way  of  syringing  with  insecticides 
after  the  flowering  period,  but  if  taken  in  time 
the  use  of  a  sponge  and  warm  soapy  water 
applied  to  the  affected  parts  will  considerably 
check  it. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Disbudding  should 
be  carried  out  as  the  shoots  become  large  enough, 
removing  those  from  the  higher  parts  of  the 
trees  first.  Spread  the  work  over  a  week  or 
more  rather  than  performing  it  at  one  time. 
Apply  water  freely  until  the  fruits  commence  to 
colour ;  afterwards  more  sparingly.  In  regard 
to  this  a  mulch  of  well-prepared  material  placed 
upon  the  border  is  very  helpful.  With  ripening 
fruits  syringing  must  be  withheld,  but  later 
trees  are  greatly  benefited  by  a  drenching  twice 
a  day  in  bright  weather. 

Hardy  Fruit  Department. 

Strawberries. — The  plantations  may  now  be 
well  cleaned  preparatory  to  the  customary  mulch- 
ing being  applied.  Weeding  and  hoeing  should 
be  done  successively,  and  if  time  can  be  spared 
to  pull  ofl'  the  decaying  foliage  it  will  be  well 
spent.  A  dressing  of  soot  about  the  plants  is 
distasteful  to  slugs,  while  old  and  somewhat 
exhausted  plantations  would  be  greatly  benefited 
by  a  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda,  loz.  to  the 
square  yard,  just  before  the  blooms  open. 

Newly  Planted  Frvit  Trees  might  with  advan- 
tage be  given  a  slight  mulching  to  prevent 
evaporation,  but  established  trees  are  best  left 
for  a  while  longer  to  enable  the  sun's  warmth  to 
penetrate  the  soil.  The  necessary  material,  how- 
ever, may  be  got  ready  by  being  frequently 
turned,  so  as  to  destroy  the  seeds  of  Corn  or 
Grasses  it  may  contain. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

Oalloway  fTonse,  Oarlieaton,  Wigtoumehire. 


ANSWERS 
TO    CO-RESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  AaavrePB.— The  Editor  intends 
to  make  THB  SAKDEH  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  tw)  fnatter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  vrill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column,  AU  communica' 
tiona  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Bditob  of  THB 
QAADEN,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  Londoi^, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  serit  to  the  PiTBLISHBB. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER     GARDEN. 

Lapch  poles  tor  perirola(7'.  K  W.). 

The  above-ground  portion  should  not  require 
any  dressing  at  all,  except  for  a  few  inches  above  j 

the  ground   level   and,    of   course,    that  portion  I 

below.  Larch  usually — indeed,  invariably — de- 
cays first  at  the  ground  level,  but  even  so,  where 
the  poles  are  of  some  size  and  contain  a  fair 
amount  of  heart  growth,  they  will  last  for  years. 
Vou  appear,  however,  to  be  erring  on  the  side  of 
small-sized  poles,  and  if  these  are  to  form  the 
uprights,  we  do  not  think  them  strong  enough. 
Larch  wears  best  when  stripped  of  its  bark,  and 
by  dressing  the  base  of  the  poles  with  gas  tar  or 
Stockholm  tar  they  would  last  for  some  years 
if  of  good  size. 

To  fupnlsh    narrow   bopdeps 

(Jerseyman). — You  do  not  give  the  size  of  the 
borders,  which  would  have  been  helpful  in  the 
circumstances.  From  your  description  the  aspect 
would  be  most  suitable  for  a  small  rockery.  Y'^ou 
speak,  however,  of  desiring  a  winter  display,  and 
say  that  the  winter  temperature  is  4.5*  to  55°. 
Are  we  right  in  concluding  that  these  borders 
are  in  the  open  '.'  If  so,  how  do  you  get  your 
winter  temperature '.'  Ferns  would  not  be  very 
happy  in  this  sunny  position  ;  but  if  in  the  open, 
many  alpines  would  succeed  quite  well.  These 
plants  are  not  specially  suited  for  winter  display, 
however,  and  we  should  like  to  be  sure  about  the 
points  we  have  raised.  The  miniature  rockery 
idea  is   feasible  in   itself,   and    if   the  position  , 

is  quite  in  the  open,  you  might  plant  many 
things  that  would  do  quite  well  and  afford  you 
much  pleasure.  If  you  will  kindly  give  us  the 
particulars  asked  for,  we  will  do  all  we  can  to 
help  you. 

Plants  fop  narrow  border  {Alpha). 

You  have  not  given  the  size  of  the  border,  unless 
you  mean  that  it  is  7  feet  9  inches  wide,  but  a 
border  of  this  width  would  not  be  a  "  narrow  " 
one  ;  and  you  do  not  say  its  extent,  therefore 
we  are  precluded  from  saying  whether  j'ou  have 
sufficient  material  to  plant  in  it  or  ncjt.  In  any 
case  you  should  group  the  plants  fur  eflect,  say, 
three  groups  of  one  dozen  each  of  Calceolaria 
amplexieaulis,  breaking  these  up  with  the 
Nicotiana  and  Calliopsis,  and,  if  the  space 
permits,  by  the  pink  and  red  Antirrhinums,  also 
in  groups.  Bold  groups  of  Dahlias  should  also 
be  planted,  and  if  you  know  their  colours 
distribute  them  separately.  In  another  line  of 
groups  you  might  arrange  the  Cineraria,  scarlet 
Begonia,  white  Marguerites,  crimson  Geranium, 
and  Stocks  in  much  the  same  order  as  we  have 
placed  them,  employing  a  number  of  plants  of 
each  to  form  the  groups,  and  planting  the  front 
with  Ageratum,  Verbenas,  Lobelia  and  Violas  in 
their  distinctive  shades.  Your  better  plan  would 
be  to  make  a  rough  sketch  of  the  border,  marking 
the  variety  of  plant  and  its  colour,  and  see  the 
result  before  planting  out.  We  do  not  publish 
names  and  addresses  of  our  correspondents,  but 
these  should  accompany  all  communications  as  an 
evidence  of  good  faith.     Please  see  rules. 


May  8,  1909.  J 


THE    GAEDEN. 


233 


Alpines  for  rockery  {D.   Morris).— 

The  plants  best  suited  to  your  requirements,  so 
far  as  we  are  able  to  determine,  would  be 
*Aubrietias,  alpine  Phloxes  (that  is,  those  of  the 
setacea  group  and  others),  Campanulas,  such  as 
muralis,  turbinata,  garganica  in  variety,  oarpatica 
varieties,  G.  F.  Wilson,  e«spitosa  and  many 
more.  Then  in  *Dianthus  you  might  select  any 
of  the  species,  while  the  genus  Saxifraga  contains 
dozens  of  good  things  suited  to  shade  and  sun, 
the  mossy  kinds  being  best  for  shade  and  the 
encrusted  for  full  sun.  The  Megaseas,  too, 
are  very  good,  and  may  be  planted  in  either 
position.  In  addition  there  are  Antennarias, 
*Aehillea8,  Polygonums,  *Onosmas,  such  *An- 
drosaoes  as  lanuginosa,  foliosa  and  sarmentosa, 
quite  a  host  of  Sedums,  Gentians  and  other 
plants  that  go  to  make  the  rook  garden  a  sort  of 
treasure-house.  Then,  of  course,  there  are  Rook 
Roses  and  other  sub-shrubby  plants  that  are 
delightful  in  their  way,  together  with  Ramondias, 
Primulas,  Acantholimons,  Thrifts  and  the  like. 
None  of  these  is  really  fastidious,  but  those 
marked  thus  (*)  are  often  benefited  by  the 
addition  of  old  mortar  to  the  soil.  Perman- 
ganate of  potash  is  in  gardening  most  frequently 
used  in  a  diluted  form  as  a  deterrent  to  fungoid 
diseases,  and  not  for  watering  plants.  If  the  soil 
near  the  wall  is  really  sour,  this  might  be 
remedied  by  trenching  and  by  the  addition  of 
lime. 

Seedlins  Bocconias  (B.  £f.).— It  is  hardly 
possible  that  seedliDgs  of  the  Plume  Poppy  will  arrive  at 
the  flowering  stage  the  same  year  as  sowing  the  seeds,  but 
should  any  of  the  plants  do  so— which  we  doubt — the 
flowering  would  not  be  at  all  representative  of  its  kind. 
Indeed,  this  may  be  so  in  the  second  season  also,  and  a 
plant  of  perennial  duration  usually  requires  a  ronch 
longer  period  of  time  before  maturity  is  reached.  The 
good  flowering  of  the  Plume  Poppy  is  dependent  on  the 
formation  of  strong  basal  crowns  each  year. 

Stocks  and  Asters  dying  (J.  H.  Gibbx.— 
Where  slugs  are  the  cause  of  the  trouble,  the  trail  they 
leave  behind  affords  a  direct  clue  ;  but  as  you  make  no 
mention  of  this  it  is  just  possible  that  woodlice  or  crickets 
may  be  doing  the  mischief.  In  any  case  you  might  lift 
the  boxes,  examine  them,  and  dust  soot  below  and  also  on 
the  plants  and  the  surface  of  the  soil.  At  this  season  all 
the  insect  pests  of  the  garden  and  greenhouse  increase 
very  fast  and  should  be  kept  in  check.  Both  Stocks  and 
Asters  when  in  too  close  a  frame  are  liable  to  the  attacks 
of  a  minute  fungoid  disease,  which  causes  the  plants  to 
damp  off.  Drier  soil  conditions  and  more  air  about  the 
plants,  together  with  a  dusting  of  air-slaked  lime  about 
the  collar  of  the  plants,  should  assist  matters,  or  you 
might  syringe  the  plants  with  a  sulphur  and  soft  soap 
solution.  We  think  the  lime  treatment  will  be  best  in 
your  case,  dusting  it  freely  about  the  neck  or  the  collar 
of  the  plants  and  keeping  the  soil  frequently  stirred  with  a 
stick  to  prevent  stagnation  or  even  undue  moisture. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Climber  for  Willow  tree  (Mrs. 
Dinesen). — A  Rose  ought  to  thrive  at  the  foot 
of  the  Willow  you  mention.  It  might  be  pos- 
sible to  make  a  mound  a  foot  or  eo  high  for  the 
plant  near  the  base  of  the  tree.  A  variety  of 
Rose  that  is  known  to  thrive  in  the  district 
would  be  the  best  to  plant.  If  Crimson  Rambler 
grows  well  with  you,  that  would  do,  or  one  of 
the  wiohuraiana  Roses,  such  as  Dorothy  Perkins, 
Alberio  Barbier  or  Hiawatha,  might  be  tried. 
For  your  arch  over  the  gate  you  might  try  a 
Honeysuckle,  either  a  common  one  or  the  Japa- 
nese Lonioera  japonica.  Clematis  Vitalba  would 
be  sure  to  grow  and  would  rapidly  cover  the 
desired  space,  but  its  flowers  are  less  showy 
than  those  of  the  Honeysuckle  ;  it  is,  however, 
a  much  more  vigorous  grower.  Although  it  is 
not  necessary  to  soak  Sweet  Pea  seeds  before 
sowing,  the  soaking  is  not  calculated  to  aflfeot 
the  health  of  the  plants. 

The  "Alpine  Cedar"  {Fircroft).-^We 
do  not  remember  hearing  of  a  tree  called  ' '  Alpine 
Cedar"  and  such  a  name  is  not  given  in  any 
reference  book  we  have  seen.  It  is  quite  pro- 
bable, however,  that  the  tree  referred  to  is  the 
Swiss  Stone  Pine  (Pinus  Cembra).  This  is  a 
common  tree  on  the  slopes  of  the  European  Alps, 
particularly  at  an  elevation  of  from  4,000  feet  to 
6,000  feet.      Vigorous  examples  attain  a  height 


of  100  feet,  but  it  is  more  frequently  met  with 
20  feet  or  .SO  feet  shorter.  It  is  a  five-leaved 
Pine — that  is,  the  leaves  are  produced  in  bundles 
of  five — and  the  species  is  distinguished  from 
other  five-leaved  Pines  by  its  rather  stiif,  narrow, 
pyramidal  habit.  It  is  rather  largely  grown  in 
English  gardens,  but  it  is  rarely  that  very  large 
examples  are  met  with  ;  specimens  30  feet  to 
50  feet  in  height  may,  however,  be  seen  fairly 
frequently.  If  you  can  obtain  a  specimen,  i.e.,  a 
branch  with  typical  leaves,  and  cones  if  possible, 
we  shall  be  pleased  to  verify  the  name. 

Willows  for  a  screen  (A.  W.  Bydon).— The 
following  Willows  will  be  suitable  for  your  purpose  :  Salix 
purpurea  and  S.  alba  vitellina,  red  and  yellow-barked 
forms  of  the  latter  for  the  front  places,  and  S.  viminalis, 
S.  rubra,  .S.  triandra  and  S.  daphnoides  for  less  prominent 
positions.  By  cutting  them  over  hard  each  year  you  can 
keep  them  dwarf.  Vou  can  either  plant  cuttings  1  foot 
long  next  autumn  or  obtain  young  plants.  Any  Willow- 
grower  would  be  able  to  supply  you  with  sets.  It  is  too 
late  to  commence  planting  now.  Gorse  may  be  kept 
dwarf  by  repeatedly  cutting  it  back  while  young.  You 
cannot  transplant  it  successfully.  Seeds  ought  to  be  sown 
thinly  on  the  ground  that  it  is  intended  to  occupy,  and  if 
the  plants  appear  too  thick,  thin  them  out.  In  the  case  of 
double-flowered  Gorse,  it  should  be  grown  in  pots  until  it 
can  be  placed  in  a  permanent  position.  It  is  usually  pro- 
pagated by  means  of  cuttings  placed  in  a  bed  of  sandy 
soil  in  a  close,  cold  frame  in  August  or  September.  Ihe 
cuttings  root  during  winter  and  are  ready  for  potting  up 
the  following  April.  The  best  time  to  cut  both  single  and 
double  Gorse  back  is  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are  over. 


ROSE     GARDEN. 

Rose  Gruss  an  Teplitz  (R.  T.).— 
This  is  a  very  erratic  Rose  to  deal  with  as  regards 
its  growth  and  blooming.  In  some  soils  it  will 
make  enormous  growths,  which  will  only  bloom 
near  their  extreme  ends.  The  best  plan  to  adopt 
in  order  to  make  the  long  growths  flower  is  to  tie 
them  over,  rainbow  fashion  ;  or,  if  the  plants  are 
against  a  fence  or  wall,  spread  the  growths  out 
horizontally  as  much  as  practicable.  We  have 
found  it  to  be  a  good  plan  to  lift  the  plants  each 
year,  trim  over  the  roots  and  replant  in  the  same 
position,  taking  care  not  to  afford  them  very  high 
culture.  This  should  be  done  in  October  ;  then 
in  March  out  the  growths  back  to  about  18  inches 
from  the  ground.  We  think  you  will  find  this 
practice  ensures  a  dwarfer  and  freer-flowering 
plant  than  those  allowed  to  grow  unchecked. 

Manuping  Roses  in  a  greenhouse  (Z/^.  Want). 
It  would  certainly  have  been  better  if  you  had  manured 
the  Roses  in  November.  The  growths  being  under  glass 
and  the  roots  outdoors,  root-action  is  much  accelerated, 
and  by  this  time  the  trees  will  need  some  artificial  stimu- 
lant. This  can,  however,  be  afforded  in  the  form  of  liquid, 
giving  to  each  tree  two  or  three  gallons,  and  more  if  they 
have  been  long  in  their  present  situation.  Cow-manure 
and  soot  make  excellent  liquid  manure,  and  you  could 
easily  make  this  in  an  old  cask.  Put  about  two  pecks  of 
fresh  cow-manure  in  a  bag  andhalf  a  peck  of  soot  in  another 
bag,  then  put  into  the  cask  about  thirty  gallons  of  water. 
After  standing  three  or  four  days  this  may  be  applied  neat. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Budding  a  Cherry  tree  (J.  H.  Oibhs). 

The  principles  of  budding,  whether  of  fruiting 
or  flowering  plants,  does  not  vary,  and  with  well- 
established  stocks  you  might  bud  in  June  or 
July.  As  you  are  successful  in  Rose-budding, 
you  should  experience  no  difficulty  with  the  fruit 
trees.  Fowl-manure  is  of  a  very  hot  nature,  and 
will  be  best  if  mixed  with  twice  its  bulk  of  garden 
soil  and  allowed  to  remain  for  a  few  months, 
when  it  could  be  utilised  for  garden  or  vegetable 
crops  of  all  descriptions,  digging  it  in  during  the 
autumn  and  winter  months. 

IVIanurlng:  Apricot  tree  (Artificial).— 

Your  securing  a  crop  of  Apricots  this  year  will 
depend  on  the  strength  of  the  bloom  now  open 
and  the  fertilising  properties  of  its  pollen.  If 
these  are  good,  you  will  soon  have  a  good  set  of 
fruit.  Then,  as  soon  as  these  are  the  size  of 
small  Nuts,  pull  off  some  of  the  smallest,  yet  leave 
plenty.  Later,  when  the  fruits  are  the  size  of 
Walnuts,  go  over  the  tree  again  and  remove 
enough  to  leave  a  fair  average,  but  by  no  means 
a  heavy  crop.  This  should  help  your  tree  very 
much.       Further,  to  give   it  useful    root    help. 


fork  in  very  lighly,  just  to  bury  it,  a  couple  of 
pounds  of  finely  crushed  lime.  This  may  soon 
be  followed  by  a  heavy  soaking  of  water,  as,  with 
light  soil  and  being  close  to  a  wall,  the  roots  are 
probably  far  from  beingover-moist.  Then  top-dress 
with  3  inches  of  animal  manure  for  the  summer. 
When  the  fruits  are  of  good  size,  give  a  further 
soaking  of  water.  Aprioots  like  a  very  firm  soil  ; 
hence  it  may  well  be  trodden  fairly  hard. 

Shoots  from  Vine  for  inspection  (£r.  S.  C). 

The  shoots  sent  appear  to  be  small  laterals,  and  there  is 
neither  insect  nor  fungus  present  to  account  for  their 
appearance.  They  look  like  small  shoots  that  have  been 
pushed  off  the  stem  by  the  vigorous  growth  of  one  of  the 
principal  laterals  which  was  springing  from  a  spot  very 
near  to  the  place  of  origin. 


THE  GREENHOUSE. 
Shading:  grlass  houses  (A.  J.  A.). 
Whatever  substance  is  employed  in  order  to 
shade  plants  under  glass  from  the  full  rays  of  the 
sun,  it  should  be  white  or  nearly  so.  A  clear 
white  has  a  somewhat  harsh  effect ;  hence  un- 
bleached calico  ia  often  used  for  blinds,  as  its 
creamy  tint  is  net  so  conspicuous.  In  the  case 
of  permanent  shading  put  on  the  glass  in  the 
form  of  paint,  a  little  green  is  used  to  tone 
down  the  white,  but  that  is  more  for  outside 
effect  than  for  the  benefit  of  the  plants  under- 
neath. At  one  time  green  rays  were  considered 
to  be  very  helpful  to  plant-life,  hence  glass  was 
often  tinted  green,  but  this  idea  is  now  exploded, 
and  for  horticultural  purposes  clear  glass  is 
preferred.  It  has  been  proved  by  experiment 
that  different  coloured  rays  affect  plants  in  a 
different  manner  ;  for  instance,  red  stimulates 
but  weakens,  while  a  clean,  pure  light  both 
stimulates  and  strengthens.  Violet  tints  retard 
and  are  altogether  harmful  to  plants  subjected 
to  them. 

Cyclamen  leaves  and  flowers  for 
inspection  (Mrs.  E.  B.  ^.).— The  Cyclamen 
leaves  sent  are  very  badly  attacked  by  red  spider  ; 
indeed,  these  pests  are  principally  answerable  for 
the  unsatisfactory  condition  of  the  plants.  There 
are  also  evidences  of  thrips,  than  which  there  is 
no  more  destructive  insect.  The  plants  have 
evidently  been  grown  under  very  disadvantageous 
conditions,  the  presence  of  red  spider  showing 
that  the  atmosphere  of  the  house  has  been  kept 
too  dry.  You  can  do  nothing  towards  remedying 
the  complaint  this  season,  but  when  the  flowers 
are  over  they  may  be  stood  in  a  cold  frame  and 
watered  for  a  time.  About  midsummer  or  a 
little  earlier  the  plants  will  go  to  rest,  when  they 
may  be  kept  dry.  Towards  the  end  of  July  the 
oorms  must  be  shaken  clear  of  the  old  soil  and 
repotted  in  a  mixture  of  loam,  leaf-mould  and 
sand.  A  frame  that  gets  very  little  direct 
sunshine  is  the  best  place  for  them,  the  plants 
standing  on  a  hard  ash  bottom,  as  this  keeps  in 
an  even  state  of  moisture  and  is  not  favourable 
to  insect  pests.  Early  in  the  autumn  the  plants 
should  be  taken  into  the  greenhouse,  where  during 
the  winter  a  good  light  position  must  be  assigned 
them. 

Treatment  of  "  Castor  Oil "  Plant 

(F.  MI.). — The  plant  referred  to  by  you  as  the 
"Castor  Oil"  Plant  is  in  all  probability  Aralia 
Sieboldii,  also  known  as  Fatsia  japonica,  a  native 
of  Japan.  The  leaves  are  in  shape  something 
like  those  of  the  Castor  Oil  Plant,  hence  that 
name  has  been  generally  applied  to  it.  The 
specimen  referred  to  by  you  has  undoubtedly 
experienced  rough  treatment,  and  it  is  almost 
useless  to  think  of  growing  it  into  an  effective 
plant  for  indoor  decoration,  especially  when  it  is 
borne  in  mind  that  neat,  well-furnished  little 
specimens  can  be  purchased  at  a  cheap  rate.  The 
only  thing  that  can  possibly  be  done  to  form  a 
dwarf  plant  is  to  out  down  yours  to  within 
5  inches  or  6  inches  of  the  pot,  when,  in  a  general 
way,  young  shoots  will  be  pushed  forth.  As  the 
one  referred  to  by  you  has,  however,  had  such 
rough  treatment,  it  is  very  probable  that  it  will 
not  break  out  in  a  satisfactory  manner,   even  if 


234 


THE    GARDEN. 


(May  8,  1909. 


out  down.  One  point  to  bear  in  mind,  however, 
ia  that  this  Aralia  is  as  hardy  as  the  common 
Laurel,  and  if  planted  out  of  doors  it  forms  a 
really  handsome  specimen.  We  know  of  several 
instances  where  plants  that  have  grown  too  bare 
and  tall  for  indoors  have,  on  our  advice,  been 
planted  out  in  the  garden  and  are  now  greatly 
admired. 

Pot     Hyacinths    not     flowering 

(Crux).  —  One  of  the  Hyacinth  bulbs  sent 
had  made  no  roots  whatever,  and  it  is  useless  to 
expect  bulbs  to  flower  in  a  satisfactory  manner 
unless  they  are  well  rooted.  The  other,  which 
had  apparently  been  in  a  glass,  was  in  such  a 
poor  state  that  it  could  not  be  expected  to  flower 
properly.  All  bulbs  that  are  intended  to  flower 
indoors  should  be  potted  in  October  and  stood 
outside  till  they  are  well  rooted,  which  should 
be  by  the  end  of  November.  They  may  then  be 
taken  into  the  dwelling-house,  giving  them  a 
good,  light  position  ;  or  they  can  be  left  out  of 
doors  till  Christmas,  after  which  they  will  soon 
respond  to  the  additional  heat  of  the-  dwelling- 
house.  The  failure  of  the  Chinese  Sacred  Lily 
was  no  doubt  caused  by  want  of  light,  as  on  the 
mantelpiece  it  would  not  get  much.  Weevils 
had  nothing  to  do  with  the  failure  of  your  bulbs. 

Tpeatment  of  Vallota  purpurea  (Enntstih 
iHurt). — The  best  time  to  have  ttiis  beautiful  Souto  African 
bulb  in  bloom  is  in  August  and  September.  Vallotas  a.re 
very  partial  to  good  yellow  loam  with  about  one  part  of 
leaf-soil  t'>  two  of  loam  and  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  silver 
sand.  When  once  potted  they  will  go  on  for  some  years 
without  repott  ng,  and  will,  in  fact,  flower  all  the  better 
for  it  providiTig  the  bulbs  do  not  become  too  crowded. 
After  flowering  the  growth  is  completed,  but  the  bulbs 
should  not  be  kept  dust  dry,  as  some  bulbs  are,  but 
moderately  dry.  as  no  absolute  rest  is  given  the  Vallota. 
Vou  will  Bnd  an  excellent  article  on  the  culture  of  Vallotas 
in  our  issue  for  January  Id  last. 

Azaleas  gone  wrong  (rojo).— There  are  so  many 
ditferent  causes  that  may  have  affected  your  Azaleas  that 
it  is,  of  course,  quite  impossible  for  us  to  indicate  the 
particular  one.  In  the  first  place  you  speak  of  a  night 
temperature  as  low  as  30^,  and  quite  possibly  it  has  been 
lower  than  that.  This  would  be  very  likely  to  injure 
them,  more  particularly  if  the  soil  happened  to  be  very 
wet  at  the  time.  Again,  the  roots  may  have  l>een  allowed 
to  get  too  dry,  for  Azaleas  quickly  resent  this  ;  or  the 
drainage  may  have  been  in  a  bad  state,  and  this  would  set 
up  a  stau'nant  condition  of  the  soil.  At  all  events,  while 
the  cause  of  the  trouble  is  at  best  a  matter  of  surmise, 
there  can  be  no  two  opinions  as  to  the  best  thing  to  do, 
and  that  is  to  throw  the  plants  away,  as  once  an  Azalea 
falls  into  ill-health  it  is  a  diftioult  subject  to  revive. 


KITCHEN    GARUEN. 

Raising  new  varieties  of 
Potatoes  (C.  W.  h'.). — New  varieties  of 
Potatoes  can  be  raised  only  through  the  agency 
of  seed  that  is  obtained  from  ripened  seed- 
apples  or  fruits  carried  on  the  plants  when 
flowers  are  specially  fertilised.  Many  years 
ago  we  had  varieties  that  produced  seed- 
apples  in  great  abundance,  but  it  was  a  defect, 
as  those  fruits  were  produced  at  the  expense  of 
tubers.  Now,  because  most  of  the  newer  varie- 
ties are  heavy  tuber  croppers,  even  though 
they  bloom  abundantly,  they  fail  to  produce 
pollen  in  the  flowers  sufficiently  to  create  seed- 
apples  by  self-fertilisation.  For  that  reason  it 
is  needful  for  those  who  desire  to  raise  new 
varieties  to  seek  for  and  obtain  what  few  grains 
of  pollen  dust  they  can  from  a  number  of  flowers 
of  any  one  variety  that  is  to  be  the  pollen  or 
male  parent,  and  with  that  pollinate  the  points 
of  the  pistils  of  two  or  three  flowers  of  tho 
variety  that  is  to  be  the  seed  parent.  If  the 
pollen  be  collected  on  a  sheet  of  white  paper, 
it  can,  with  the  aid  of  a  tiny  oamel-haii' 
brush,  be  gathered  from  the  paper  and  placed  on 
the  pistil  points  of  the  selected  flowers.  A3  one 
seed-apple  often  produces  from  forty  to  fifty 
seeds,  it  is  obvious  that  two  of  such  seed-apples 
produced  by  any  one  cross  are  ample.  Still, 
three  or  four  flowers  on  a  truss  can  be  fertilised, 
to  make  sure  enough  of  them  set  or  produce 
seed.  When  the  fertilisation  is  done,  and  during 
July  is  an  excellent  time,  the  stem  carrying  the 
fertilised  flowers  should  be  supported  by  a  small 
stake  and  have  a  label  showing  the  nature  of  the 


cross  attached.  All  blooms  except  the  few  fer- 
tilised should  be  picked  off.  It  is  wise  when  seed- 
balls  are  formed  to  encase  them  in  a  small  piece  of 
muslin  to  prevent  their  falling  when  ripe.  What 
you  describe  as  putting  an  eye  from  one  Potato 
into  a  tuber  of  another  variety  is  called  grafting. 
We  practised  it  many  years  ago,  but  no  change 
in  the  variety  whatever  followed.  It  is  a 
worthless  experiment.  We  have  not  seen  the 
parentage  of  King  Edward  VII.  stated  ;  it  is  a 
very  handsome  variety,  but  a  poor  cooker. 

Hot-tasting  Potatoes  [Wehhjnan).— 

The  hot  taste  or  astringency  you  complain  of  in 
your  eating  Potatoes  ia  doubtless  due  to  their 
having  been  for  aome  time  unduly  exposed  to 
light  and  air,  as  in  that  way  such  exposure  creates 
chemical  changes  in  the  flesh  from  the  skin 
inwards,  and  renders  thick  peeling  necessary  if 
such  taste  is  objected  to  when  cooked.  We  have 
never  met  with  or  heard  of  any  such  offensive 
hotness  being  caused  by  manures,  and  think  it 
most  unlikely  such  is  the  case  with  yours  ;  but 
it  you  do  not  care  to  eat  them,  then  plant  your 
tubers  by  all  means.  If  some  of  them  are  large 
for  planting,  cut  them  through  the  middle, 
lengthwise  that  is,  from  the  bud  end  downwards. 
Do  this  twenty-four  hours  before  you  plant  and 
dust  with  lime  to  cause  the  cut  surfaeea  to 
harden  before  planting.  Vou  may  be  assured 
that  the  produce  next  autumn  will  be  good, 
sweet  and  pleasant  eating. 

Potatoes     on     north     aspect 

(Artificial). — The  site  of  your  Potato  patch  of 
last  year  was  too  shaded,  cold  and  damp  for  such 
a  crop,  and  especially  for  a  late,  strong 
grower  like  Up-to-Date.  No  doubt  it  would  be 
wiser,  if  you  crop  the  same  ground  with  Potatoes 
again,  to  plant  Beauty  of  Hebron  or  Early 
Puritan,  as  these  are  not  rank  growers.  The 
position  may  suit  Peas  and  Beans  very  well,  as 
these  crops  are  less  tender  and  need  leas  warmth 
than  Potatoes.  In  a  hot,  dry  season  it  should 
not  be  too  cold  for  Potatoes,  but  if  it  be  a  cold, 
damp  one,  then  such  thinga  as  Potatoes  Will  not 
thrive  there.  We  do  not  attribute  the  lack  of 
tubers  in  your  Up-to-Date  to  the  manure 
dressing,  and  least  of  all  to  the  kainit,  but 
rather  to  the  cold,  sunless  position  in  which 
they  were  grown.  In  such  a  position  you  should 
have  Peas  and  Beans  cropping  till  a  late  period 
of  the  autumn.  Giant  Cauliflowers  got  out  early 
should  also  do  well  in  such  a  position. 
Basic     slag    and     Potatoes 

(Enqtdrer).  —  Basic  slag  would  have  been  an 
excellent  manure  for  Potatoes  had  it  been  applied 
to  the  soil  early  in  January,  as  by  the  time 
the  Potatoes  could  have  utilised  manure  the  slag 
would  have  become  soluble.  But  as  you  have 
the  basic  slag,  we  suggest  that  you  plant  your 
Potatoes  in  furrows  5  inches  deep  and  firat  dust 
along  them  some  of  it  at  the  rate  of  a  pound  to  a 
20-feet  run,  and  do  the  same  with  finely  crushed 
sulphate  of  ammonia,  putting  in  tubers  of  the 
same  size  and  width  apart ;  then  aee  the  result. 
Basic  slag  is  a  phosphatic  manure  and  acts  slowly  ; 
sulphate  of  ammonia  is  quick-acting,  as  it  soon 
diaaolvea  and  supplies  nitrogen.  A  good  chemical 
manure  for  Potatoes  is  bone-flour,  two  parts,  and 
kainit  (potash),  two  parts,  applied  in  January, 
with  two  parts  of  sulphate  of  ammonia  applied 
either  at  planting-time  or  hoed  in  when  the  tops 
are  above  ground.  Test  the  slag  with  Peas  and 
Greens  in  the  aame  way. 

'  tPreventiner  attacks  by  the  Onion 
maggot  (T.  T.).— The  only  reliable  preventive  of  this 
pest  is  to  sow  the  seeds  in  boxes  in  1^'ebruary  and  plant 
out  the  seedlings  in  April.  Even  this  is  not  absolutely 
sure,  but  it  is  exceedingly  rare  to  find  box-raised  plants 
attacked  to  any  serious  extent.  If  you  have  not  done 
this,  try  spraying  two  or  three  times  with  an  emulsion  of 
paraffin,  soft  soap  and  quassia. 

Artificial  manure  for  Rhubarb  (C.  H'.  C). 
For  the  manure  to  have  any  beneficial  effect  on  the 
growth  of  the  Rhubarb  this  spring  it  must  be  of  a  nature 
that  will  produce  immediate  growth,  and  for  this  purpose 
we  know  of  nothing  better  than  nitrate  of  soda  and  soot. 
Grind  the  soda  down  into  fine  powder  and  mix  with  twice 
its  bulk  of  soot.  Fork  up  the  soil  (about  3  inches  deep 
without  injuring  the  roots)  as  far  as  you  think  the  roots 


extend,  and  then  apply  this  manure,  washing  it  down 
into  the  soil  with  a  copious  application  of  water.  Three 
handfuls  to  each  plant  would  be  a  good  dressing,  repeating 
the  dressing  in  a  fortnight's  time. 

Mildew  on  Parsley  (C.  W.  C.).-We  have 
occasionally  seen  failures  in  crops  of  Parsley  in  hot  dry 
summers  from  attacks  of  mildew  and  other  causes  when 
growing  on  light,  shallow  soils,  but  never  when  grown  on 
well-cultivated,  cool,  deep  soils  and  the  plants  have  been 
well  thinned.  Should  you  be  threatened  liy  another 
visitation  this  year,  we  know  of  no  better  preventive  or 
cure  than  a  timely  application  of  quicklime  and  flowers  of 
sulphur  in  the  proportion  of  a  quart  of  sulphur  to  a  peck 
of  quicklime,  dusting  the  plants  carefully  over  and  seeing 
that  the  leaves  are  effectively  dredged  on  both  side".  The 
best  preventive  against  another  attack  in  the  future, 
we  think,  will  be  to  give  the  crop  an  entire  change  of 
land,  to  deeply  trench  and  generously  manure  the  soil 
this  autumn,  and  give  it  a  good  liming  in  spring. 

Peas  and  Corn  for  poultry  feeding  (i^.  S.). 
\es,  certainly  you  may  grow  successfully  any  sort  of  Pea 
or  Corn  in  your  garden.  The  Canaiiau  White  Pea  you 
mention  can  no  doubt  be  obtained  from  any  seed-merchant 
advertising  in  our  columns.  It  is  getting  rather  late  for 
sowing  Peas,  but  if  you  immediately  sow  the  early  maturing 
field  Pea  Warwicjf  Gray  it  should  be  ripe  about  the  middle 
of  August.  Pea-meal  is  made  from  the  ordinary  cheap 
field  Peas,  the  common  CJray  or  the  Hastings  (Sray  being 
among  the  best.  The  Peas  become  dry  and  hard  as  soon 
as  ripe  and  ready  for  harvesting,  and  may  then  be  ground 
into  meal  if  wished.  It  would  be  interesting  to  try  the 
growth  of  Wheat,  Buckwheat  and  Oats  on  a  small  scale  in 
your  garden  ;  you  could  not  lose  anything,  aud  the  expe- 
rience would  be  useful  as  showing  how  much  cheaper  you 
could  grow  your  Corn  than  you  can  buy  it.  The  middle  of 
October  is  the  best  time  to  sow  the  above  cereals.  They 
may  also  be  sown  in  March.  The  most  economical  way  of 
feeding  poultry  we  have  found  to  be  b>'  l>oiling  Potatoes 
and  any  refuse  from  the  kitchen,  in  the  way  of  Apple  and 
Potato  peelings,  bones  and  stale  bread,  in  fact,  any  clean, 
wholesome  kitchen  ort'al,  mixing  with  it  some  Barley-meal 
and  sharps,  giving  them  as  much  of  this  tin  a  warm  cou- 
tion)  as  they  can  eat  for  the  first  meal  in  the  early  morning, 
.and  for  the  evening  meal  Indian  Corn,  light  Wheat,  Oats 
and  Barley,  giving  one  for  two  or  three  days,  then  the 
other,  and  so  on.  The  fowls  thrive  better  on  a  change  of 
Corn  than  if  always  kept  to  the  same.  If  they  have  a  grass 
run  they  will  require  very  little  food  in  the  middle  of  the 
day ;  but  if  they  have  not,  greenstufl:  in  some  form  should 
be  provided  for  them. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Gooseberry  shoots  for  inspection  (Miss  P.). 
No  Botrytis  cinerea  is  present  on  the  Gooseberry  shoots, 
but  the  tiny  black  specks  are  the  frviiting  bodies  of  another 
fungus,  a  species  of  Ph  jraa,  which  is  said  sometimes  to  do 
damage  and  cause  defoliation  of  the  bushes.  It  would  be 
well  to  prune  away  affected  shoots  and  burn  them. 

Peaty  substance  from  the  Canary  Isles 
(Seeker).— We  have  had  no  experience  of  the  peat-like 
substance  sent  by  you,  but  should  have  little  hesitation  in 
using  it  for  potting  soft-growing  plants,  and  to  a  certain 
extent  for  propagation.  For  potting  purposes  it  may 
take  the  place  of  peat  or  leaf-mould— that  is,  to  form  one 
item  in  the  compost.  A  mixture  of  two  parts  loam  to  one 
part  of  the  enclosed  substance  and  a  fair  sprinkling  of 
silver  sand  should  make  a  good  potting  material  for  many 
plants,  including  Ferns.  Mixed  with  loam  in  equal  pro- 
portions, with  about  half  the  quantity  of  sand,  it  would 
doubtless  prove  useful  for  many  propagating  purposes. 

Starting  In  a  nursery  business  (C.  H.  B.). 
Whether  a  tmsiness  can  be  made  protttable  depends 
largely  upon  the  aptitude  of  the  person  undertaking  it, 
the  amount  of  capital  he  has  at  his  command  and  various 
other  things.  For  example,  since  you  desire  to  grow 
"hardy  cut-flower  stuff  for  market,"  your  place  of 
business  should  not  be  too  far  removed  from  a  good 
market  town  where  such  a  class  of  goods  is  in  demand. 
It  would  also  be  necessary  for  you  to  attend  to  the  selling 
of  such  things  yourself,  or  that  you  have  an  assistant  to 
help  you,  as  it  would  not  pay  to  send  this  class  of  goods 
to  a  commission  agent.  You  would  also  further  require 
a  fair  amount  of  space  to  grow  the  plants  you  name, 
though  the  forcing  of  vegetables,  such  as  Seakale, 
Asparagus  and  other  crops,  might  advantageously  be 
carried  on  in  conjunction  with  the  growth  of  hardy  cut 
flowers,  provided  you  had  the  use  of  frames,  hot-beds  or 
heated  greenhouses.  Whether  the  hardy  stuff  as  stated 
can  be  profitably  grown  depends  entirely  upon  the  supply 
and  demand  in  any  district  in  which  you  may  set  up. 
Unless  you  have  at  your  command  capital  to  carry  on  for 
a  year,  we  advise  you  to  wait  and  pursue  enquiries 
meanwhile. 

Names   of  plants.—./.  R.  K —I,  Souvenir  d'un 

Ami;  2,  Mme.  Lambard ;  :i,  Devoniensis. (?.  MeHorsey. 

—1,  Thuya  occidentalis  ;  2  and  4,  Cupressus  lawsoniana ; 
3  and  7,  Thuya  plicata  ;  5,  probably  Cupresuis  lawsoniana 
lutea  ;  0,  Abies  Pinsapo  ;  s,  Forsythia  suspenea  ;  0,  TaxU8 

baccata   aurea    variegata. //.    H.   S.—\,  Dendroblum 

wardianum ;  2,  D.  nobile ;  i,  D.  Farmeri ;  4,  Lopezia 
lineata ;  5,  Fuchsia  Cottinghamii :  G,  Hiemanthus  species, 

probably   coccinea   (canuot   name  without    flowers). ; 

G.  Rea.  —  1,  Choisya  ternata :  2,  Lencothoe  Catesbiei 
variety ;    3,   Populus  species,  probably  deltoidea ;   4,  P. 

tremula  ;  5,  Acer  dasycarpum  :  6,  Cornus  mas. T.  J.— 

1,  Crassula  lycopodioides  ;  2,  Sedum  Sieboldii ;  3,  Semper- 
vivum  arboreum  variegatum ;  4,  Sedum  prealtum  ;  5,  Aloe 

species. ir.  A.   fi.— Rhamnus   alaternus   angustifolia. 

Q.  p.  LescAaiios.— Narcissus  Incomparabilis  flore-pleno. 


May  8,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


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THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  speoial  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit 
tree,  shrub.  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


■Camellias  from  St.  Leonard's  Hill,  Windsor. 
Acharming  variety  of  Camellia  flowers,  gathered 
from  the  open  garden,  has  been  sent  by  Mr. 
Robert  Brown,  gardener  to  Lady  Tress  Barry  of 
The  Gardens,  St.  Leonard's  Hill,  Windsor,  with 
the  following  note:  "I  am  sending  you  a  few 
blooms  of  Camellias,  all  cut  from  the  open  garden, 
just  to  show  you  that  they  have  passed  through 
the  past  trying  season  without  the  slightest 
injury.  Out  of  over  400  plants,  planted  out  in 
all  positions,  not  one  has  been  injured  by  the 
weather,  and  there  has  been  no  attempt  to  pro- 
tect them  in  any  way.  At  the  present  time 
thousands  of  flowers  are  open  on  both  named 
varieties  and  seedlings  of  our  own  raising  from 
seed  ripened  outdoors.  ' 

An"bmones  from  Lincolnshire. 
Messrs.  Gilbert  and  Son,  the  well-known 
Anemone  specialists  of  Dyke,  Bourne,  Lincoln- 
shire, send  us  magnificent  flowers  of  their 
beautiful  plants,  which  are  particularly  pleasing 
during  the  spring  months.  They  write  :  "  We 
are  sending  for  your  Table  a  few  specimen 
blooms  of  some  of  our  Anemones.  There  are 
*bout  twenty  varieties  in  all,  including  our  well- 
known  King  of  Scarlets  and  the  grand  variety 
fulgens  ooulata  gigantea,  which  we  recently 
introduced.  The  blossoms  of  both  of  these  are 
rather  small  and  short-stalked  on  this  occasion, 
as,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season,  they  are 
only  just  beginning  to  flower.  The  St.  Brigids 
are  from  a  bed  of  seedlings  in  the  open,  from 
which  we  have  had  blossom  ever  since  last 
August,  except  during  the  severe  weather  last 
month.  The  Pulsatilla  are  rather  poor,  but  a 
week  ago  they  were  a  grand  sight,  and  Anemones 
robinsoniana,  ranunculoides  and  apennina  are  in 
perfection  now.  There  are  in  the  box  six  varie- 
ties of  fulgens,  including  the  rare  grseca,  of 
which  we  have  some  strong  plants  raised  from 
•seed.  We  are  enclosing  with  the  flowers  a  copy 
of  our  leaflet,  "  Anemones  All  the  Year  Round," 
which  gives  a  fairly  representative  list,  and  which 
we  hope  will  mike  the  possibilities  of  this  lovely 
but  toolittle-grown  flower  more  generally  known. " 

Cineraria  Flowers. 
Miss  M.  Maxwell  Stuart,  Soarthingwell  Hall, 
Tadcister,  Yorkshire,  sends  beautiful  flowers  of 
the  Cineraria  stellata  strain,  which  are  graceful 
in  growth  and  varied  in  colouring.  We  hope 
•our  correspondent  will  persevere  in  her  interesting 
work  of  raising  new  forms  of  a  beautiful  flower. 

Daffodils  from  Stafford. 
Mr.  C.  F.  Mowl,  gardener  to  Mrs.  Stephenson, 
Burton  House,  Stafford,  sends  large  and  well- 
grown  flowers  of  Daffodils,  the  varieties  being 
Big  Ben  and  Mme.  de  Graiff.  The  flowers  of 
the  first  named,  though  large  and  of  good  sub- 
stance, were  rather  streaked,  a  feature  that  often 
occurs  with  this  variety.  He  writes  :  "I  am 
sending  a  few  Narcissi  for  your  table,  as  grown  in 
the  open.  The  specimen  with  the  large  yellow 
trumpet  is  named  Big  Ben  ;  the  other,  we  believe, 
is  Weardale  Perfection "  [no,  Mme.  de  Graaff] ; 
"  but,  owing  to  the  labels  being  lost,  we  are  not 
certain.     Perhaps  you  can  verify  this." 


SOCIETIES. 


BOURNEMOUTH  GARDENERS'  ASSOCIATION. 
On  Tiiesday,  April  -20,  Mr.  Nippard,  head-gardener  to  Mr. 
J.  J.  Norton,  Ashton  Court,  Bournemouth,  gave  a  very 
interesting  and  instructive  paper  on  "Flowering  Trees  and 
Shrubs."  This  was  the  date  fised  for  the  annual  exhibition 
of  hardy  spring-flowering  plants,  shrubs  excluded,  and 
before  the  paper  was  read  the  awards  were  made  by  Mi'. 
W.  Reeves  and  Mr.  Garner.  In  the  class  for  six  vases  of 
blooms  Mr.  Tompkins  won  first  prize.  His  exhibit  was  a 
very  meritorious  one,  and  included  fine  blooms  of  Narcissi 
Empress,  Crown  Imperial  and  Tulip  la  Reine.  Mr. 
Nippard  won  second  prize  with  a  beautiful  lot  of  flowers. 
His  Tulips,  Polyanthuses  and  Narcissi  were  charming. 
Mr.  Lansley  secured  premier  honours  in  the  class  for  three 
vases  of  hardy  spring-flowerinR  plants,  shrubs  excluded. 
Narcissus  Emperor  and  Tulip  Keizerskroon  being  excep- 
tionally fine.  Second  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  Sprackling 
with  three  beautiful  vases  of  Narcissus  Horsfleldii, 
Hyacinths  and  Tulips,  and  third  honours  went  to  Mr. 
Pearce,  who  had  a  magnificent  vase  of  Polyanthuses  in  his 
collection.  Mr.  Tompkins  was  deservedly  awarded  a 
certificate  for  a  plant  of  Cineraria  with  a  massive  head  of 
large  flowers.  Mr.  G.  Garner  presided  at  the  meeting, 
and  after  the  prizes  had  been  handed  to  the  successful 
competitors,  Mr.  Nippard  read  his  paper.  He  dealt  with 
the  subject  in  a  very  able  manner,  and  after  pointing 
out  the  many  mistakes  which  Inexperienced  persons  made 
in  the  plantmg  of  flowering  trees  and  shrubs,  particularly 
those  of  overcrowding  and  injudicious  mixing  with 
conifers,  referred  in  detail  to  the  majority  of  the  best  kinds 
and  varieties.  Rhododendrons,  Mr.  Nippard  said,  may  be 
had  in  bloom  in  mild  districts  for  nearly  six  months,  some 
of  the  earliest  being  available  at  Christmas.  Dwarf- 
growing  shrubs,  such  as  Andromeda  floribunda.  Daphnes, 
Choisya  temata.  Hydrangeas,  Weigelas,  Deutzias  and 
Azaleas,  were  strongly  recommended  for  growing  in  small 
gardens.  The  lecturer  advised  the  cultivator  to  graft 
Lilacs  on  the  Privet,  so  as  to  secure  short-jointed  wood 
and  avoid  the  suckers,  which  are  often  so  troublesome 
The  buds  may  be  worked  on  the  Privet  stock  close  to  the 
ground  just  the  same  as  a  Rose  is  budded,  said  Mr 
Nippard.  Wistarias  grown  as  standards  were  recom- 
mended, and  berry-bearing  plants,  and  Crabs  especially 
were  dealt  with.  A  free  discussion  followed  the  reading 
of  the  paper,  and  there  was  much  evidence  of  the  popu- 
larity of  hardy  (lowering  trees  and  shrubs  given.  Votes 
of  thanks  to  the  lecturer  and  chairman  were  accorded  and 
ended  a  very  enjoyable  evening. 


HORTICULTURAL  CLIB. 
Thk  Colours  of  Pi,ant.s. 
After  the  usual  monthly  dinner  of  this  club  at  the  Hotel 
Windsor  on  the  20th  ult.,  Mr.  W.  J.  Jefl'eries  taking  the 
chair,  Mr.  A.  E.  Buuyard  gave  a  most  interesting  lecture 
on  the  results  of  his  research  and  experiments  into  the 
underlymg  causes  of  colour  and  change  of  colour  in  plants 
By  means  of  a  number  of  lantern  slides,  some  representing' 
flowers  in  their  natural  colours  as  obtained  by  up-to-date 
processes  and  others  representing  prepared  microscopic 
sections  of  the  colour-producing  plant  cells,  he  showed 
and  explamed  the  many  subtle  ways  in  which  colours  are 
widely  varied  by  very  minute  modiflcations  of  the  colour- 
ing matter,  or  even  only  of  its  arrangement.  In  the 
first  place  he  explained  that  we  recognise  colours  by 
virtue  of  the  varying  powers  possessed  by  the  colouring 
materials  of  absorbing  white  light,  i.e.,  sunlight,  and 
breaking  it  up,  as  in  prisms,  into  those  constituent  tints 
which  we  see  in  the  rainbow  or  in  the  spectrum.  When 
so  broken  up  these  components  are  partly  absorbed  and 
partly  thrown  off  or  reflected  and  it  is  by  virtue  of  the 
r^ecied  rays  and  not  the  absorbed  ones  that  our  eyes  are 
affected  and  we  see  the  colour  concerned.  Inherently 
therefore,  what  we  call  a  red  body  is  really  all  the  tints 
but  red,  and  not  red  at  all  in  itself.  He  then  went  on  to 
explain  that  the  colouring  matter  in  plants  is  of  two 
kinds,  sap  or  liquid  colours  and  "plastids"  or  minute 
microscopic  bodies  of  a  granular  nature.  In  one  very 
remarkable  slide,  representing  a  section  of  a  flower  petal 
he  showed  how  these  two  kinds,  say,  one  yellow,  the  other 
red,  may  be  associated  in  separate  outadjoinins'  cell-layers 
10  deflnice  patches  and  in  such  a  fashion  that"  when  both 
were  exactly  superimposed  a  very  intense  colour  appeared 
while  otherwise  a  less  exact  coincidence  would  allow  the 
lighter  tint  to  appear  between  the  darker  one,  and  in  this 
way  produce  more  or  less  marked  gradations  of  tint  by 
purely  microscopic  shifting  of  the  layers.  The  skill  which 
could  have  produced  such  a  beautifully  clear  exemplifica- 
tion as  a  lantern-slide  created  a  great  impression  when 
the  delicacy  of  the  operation  was  considered  Mr 
Bunyard  next  explained  that  ihe  chief  colouring  matter 
of  plants,  viz.,  the  chlorophyllic  or  green  granules  which 
pervade  the  foliage,  is  almost  always,  if  not  invariably 
associated  with  a  yellow  colouring  matter  termed  carotin 
from  Its  presence  as  the  colouring  medium  of  the  Carrot.' 
In  foliage  this  is  masked  by  the  predominating  green 
granules,  but  when  tnese  are  withdrawn  in  the  autumn 
the  yellow  tint  becomes  visi^ile  and,  in  conjunction  with 
other  media,  produces  the  brilliant  reds  aud  yellows  of 
the  autumn  landscape.  Another  interesting  point  brought 
out  by  the  lecturer  was  the  practical  identity  of  blue  and 
red  colours,  whether  sap  or  pigmentary,  from  the  fact 
that  a  slight  excess  of  acid  on  the  one  hand  or  alkali  on 
the  other  would  determine  either  colour,  the  blue 
becoming  red  by  acid  reaction  and  the  red  blue  by 
alkaline,  as  m  the  familiar  test  cases  by  Litmus  paper, 
which  in  point  of  fact  is  stained  with  a  vegetable  colour 


to  start  with :  hence  a  very  slight  change  in  the  compo- 
sition of  the  soil  or  in  the  assimilative  tendencies  of  the 
plant  itself  may  lead  to  a  change  from  red  to  blue  fiowers 
or  rice  rersd,  as  we  see  in  the  much-discussed  cases  of  the 
Hydrangea.  A  further  series  of  slides  illustrated  very 
peculiar  forms  taken  by  colouring  matter  in  the  epidermal 
layers  of  fruits,  the  Melon  sometimes  displaying  under 
the  microscope  curious  arrangements  of  rods  and  ribbons 
while  in  other  cases  the  matter  takes  the  form  of  minute 
crystals.  Flowers  being  modified  leaves  usually  contain 
chlorophyll  in  their  incipient  stages,  but  eliminate  it 
later  as  they  assume  their  distinctive  colours.  In  the 
green  flowers,  however,  such  as  green  Roses  and  Dahlias 
this  elimination  does  not  occur ;  the  chlorophyll  persists 
and  in  this  way  a  partial  reversion  occurs.  An  admirable 
feature  of  Mr.  Bunyard's  research,  as  was  recognised  by 
all  present,  is  its  eminently  practical  character,  since  a 
careful  analysis  of  the  colouring  factors  may  well  deter- 
mine the  effort  of  hybridisers  and  selective  cultivators  in 
the  right  direction,  when  otherwise  in  ignorance,  say,  of 
the  entire  absence  of  a  certain  component  character,  they 
are  striving  to  obtain  the  impossible  by  combining  parents 
neither  of  which  possess  it.  He  pointed  out,  too,  that  a 
colour  which  may  be  entirely  absent  in  the  flower  may 
betray  its  presence  in  the  plant's  system  elsewhere,  aud 
also  that  varieties  even  when  not  in  flower  may  be 
recognised  by  such  indications.  In  the  subsequent 
discussion,  in  which  Messrs.  Druery,  Cuthbertson 
Pearson,  Barr,  Sanders  and  Dr.  Shillitoe  took  part,  several 
other  points  were  raised,  to  which  Mr.  Bunyard  replied 
Mr.  Druery  pointing  out  that  the  most  wonderful  colour 
was  the  chlorophyll,  the  tiny  green  grains  of  which 
constituted  the  one  and  only  link  between  the  vitality  of 
all  organic  creation  and  the  life-giving  influence  of  the  sun, 
by  virtue  of  which  they  were  enabled  to  transform 
inorganic  materials  into  organic,  and  in  this  way  provide 
the  animal  world,  including  man  himself,  with  the 
essentials  of  existence.  A  hearty  vote  of  thanks  was 
awarded  to  the  lecturer  in  conclusion. 

CORNWALL  DAFFODIL  AND  SPRING  FLOWER 
SHOW. 
This  society,  which  is  now  in  its  thirteenth  year  and 
whose  patroness  is  Her  Majesty  Queen  Alexandraand  whose 
president  is  the  Princess  of  Wales,  held  a  most  successful 
show  m  the  Market  Hall,  Truro,  on  April  16.  On  account 
of  the  extreme  lateness  of  the  season,  the  show,  which 
was  originally  fixed  for  March  30,  had  been  postponed  for 
seventeen  days.  The  entries  were  more  numerous  than 
they  had  ever  been  before,  and  the  quality  of  the  exhibits 
was  very  high.  The  Hon.  .fohn  Boscawen,  who  has  been 
hon.  secretary  to  the  society  since  its  initiation,  under- 
took the  arrangements  with  his  usual  tact  and  thorough- 
ness. Owing  to  brilliant  weather  the  attendance  at  the 
show  was  unusually  large. 

Prize  List. 

Thirty  varieties  of  Daft'odils,  first,  Mr.  E.  H.  Williams. 
A  very  fresh  and  admirably  arranged  stand,  but  scarcely, 
if  at  all,  better  than  the  second-prize  exhibit.  Good 
flowers  were  Firebrand,  Citron,  P.  R.  Barr,  Weardale 
Perfection,  Homespun,  Incognita,  Southern  Star  and 
King  Alfred.  Thirty  varieties  of  Daffodils  in  commerce  or 
not  iu  commerce,  first,  Mr.  .1.  C.  Williams.  This  was  a 
magnificent  stand  entirely  composed  of  seedlings  raised 
by  Mr.  Williams,  and  numbered,  but  not  named.  Among 
these  there  were  many  of  great  beauty,  some  of  the  flat- 
cupped  Englehearti  section  having  the  central  disc  of 
glowing  orange  scarlet,  others  rich  yellow  and  some  pale 
saffron.  There  were  some  large  and  fine  bicolor  trumpets, 
a  showy  golden  trumpet  and  a  very  beautiful  flower  that 
appeared  an  improvement  on  White  Queen. 

In  the  following  nine  classes  the  price  of  the  bulbs  was 
limited  to  lOs.  In  those  for  six  Magni-Coronati,  six  Medio- 
Corouati,  three  Leedsii,  six  Parvi-Coronati  and  fifteen 
distinct  varieties,  any  section.  Miss  Clarice  Vivian  won  the 
first  prizes.  Finest  bloom  Magni-Coronati,  first,  Miss 
Mabel  Williams  with  Weardale  Perfection  :  finest  bloom 
Medio-Coronati,  first.  Colonel  Noel  Ustieke  with  Lucifer  ; 
finest  bloom  Parvi-Coronati,  first.  Miss  Mabel  Williams' 
with  Firebrand ;  finest  bloom  Posticus,  first.  Miss  Clarice 
Vivian  with  Almira;  six  Magni-Coronati,  first,  Mr. 
P.  D.  Williams  with  a  splendid  set  of  floivers  comprising 
Conqueror,  Michael,  Diogenes,  Countess  of  Stamford  and 
two  unnamed  seedings  :  six  Medio-Coronati,  fir-it,  Rsv. 
A.  T.  Boscawen  ;  three  Leedsii,  first,  .Mr.  E.  H.  Williims  ; 
six  Parvi-Coronati,  first.  Rev.  a.  T  Boscawen ;  three 
doubles,  first.  Miss  Clarice  Vivian ;  finest  bloom  Magni- 
Coronati  in  commerce,  first,  Mr.  E.  H.  Williams  with 
King  Alfred  ;  finest  bloom  Medio-Coronati  in  commerce, 
first,  Mr.  C.  Dawson  withButtercup,  a  good  golden  yellow  ; 
finest  bloom  Parvi-Coronati  in  commerce,  first,  Mr. 
C.  Dawson ;  finest  bloom  Poeticus  in  commerce,  first. 
Rev.  A.  T.  Boscawen  ;  finest  bloom  Magni-Coronati  not 
in  commerce,  first,  Mr.  P.  D  Williams ;  flriest  bloom 
Medio-Coronati  not  in  commerce,  first,  Mr.  .7.  C.  Williams  ; 
finest  bloom  Parvi-Coronati  not  in  commerce,  first, 
Mr.  J.  C.  M^illiams ;  finest  bloom  Poeticus  not  in  com- 
merce, flrst,  Mr.  .1.  C.  Williams :  group  of  Daffodil 
seedlings,  flrst,  Mr.  P.  D.  Williams  with  a  fine  stand  ;  ten 
di.tinct  varieties,  any  section, first.  Miss  P.Noel  Ustieke. 
Awards  of  merit  were  given  to  Mr.  P.  D.  Williams  for 
Conqueror,  Michael,  Robespierre  and  Ivorine :  to  Mr. 
J.  C  Williams  for  Jlrs.  Francklin  and  White  Star  ;  to 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  for  Mrs.  G.  H.  Barr ;  to  Messrs. 
Cartwright  and  Goodwin  for  Scarlet  Eye  and  Boyal 
Sovereign  ;  and  to  Mr.  Walter  Ware  for  Queen  of  the  West, 
a  golden  trumpet  not  in  commerce.  A  cultural  com- 
mendation was  awarded  to  Lady  Margaret  Boscawen  for 
Outpost. 

Three  bunches  of  Anemones,  flrst  prize  and  cultural 
commendation,  Mr.  R.  Fox ;  one  bunch  of  Anemone  fulgens. 


2:J6 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  8,  1909. 


tirst,  Mr.  T.  H.  Uolitho  :  three  Polyanthuses,  first,  Mrs.  .T. 
Paiill :  three  Primroses,  first,  Sirs.  E.  H.  Williams  ;  twelve 
hardy  spring  flowers,  first,  Mr.  P.  D.  Williams  ;  six  hardy 
spring  flowers,  first,  Mr.  Howard  Fox  ;  three  bunches  of 
single  Violets  (three  varieties),  first,  Lady  Mary  Trefusis ; 
three  bunches  of  doul^le  Violets  (three  varieties),  fl^rst, 
Captaui  W.  Tremayne ;  three  bunches  of  single  Violets 
(one  variety),  first  prize  and  cultural  eonimendation,  Mrs. 
.T.  C.  Willianis  ;  three  bunches  of  double  Violets  (one 
variety),  first.  Captain  W.  Tremayne  ;  six  vases  of  Ptoses, 
first,  Mr.  A.  Blenkinsop  ;  three  vases  of  Ruses,  first,  Lady 
Margaret  Boscawen ;  finest  Rhododendron  plant,  first, 
Mr.  R.  Fox,  with  Lady  Alice  Fit/william  in  splendid 
bloom.  Best  group  of  Rhododendron  trusses,  first,  Sir.  J. 
C.  Williams,  with  a  bright  collection  of  seedlings ;  second, 
Mr.  I>.  H.  Shilson,  with  an  equally  good  stand,  in  which 
Mrs.  Henry  Shilson  and  Duchess  of  Cornwall  received 
awards  of  merit.  Six  trusses  of  Rhododendrons,  first, 
Mr.  J.  C.  Williams  ;  six  trusses  of  Rhododendrons  grown 
under  glass,  first,  Mr.  R.  Fox  ;  finest  truss  of  Rhododen- 
dron, first,  Mr.  J.  C.  Williams ;  finest  truss  of  Sikkim 
Rhododendron,  first,  Mr.  D.  H.  Shilson  ;  finest  trus^  of 
Rhododendron  grown  under  glass,  first,  Mr.  J.  C.  Daubuz; 
six  Camellias,  first,  Mrs  .1.  P.  Rogers  ;  finest  bloom  of 
Camellia,  first.  Rev.  A.  T.  Boscawen,  with  C.  reticulata; 
three  Acacias,  first,  Mr.  J.  H.  Watson,  with  A.  leprosa, 
A.  riceana  and  A.  longifolia.  Mr.  Watson  also  received 
an  award  of  merit  for  a  collection  of  Acacias  grown  in  the 
open,  which  included  A.  juniperina,  A.  riceana,  A.  verti- 
cillata,  A.  ulicina,  A.  longifolia  magnifica,  A.  I. 
mucronata,  A.  h;cmatophvlla,  A.  lepmsa,  A.  melanoxylon, 
A.  fioribunda,  A.  dirtusa,  A.  armata,  A.  a.  angustifolia,  A. 
ovata,  A.  acinacea,  A.  Drummondi  and  A.  hastulata. 
Twenty  hard-wooded  fiowering  shrubs  or  climbers,  equal 
first,  Mr.  T.  B.  Bolitho  and  Mr.  C.  Hext.  Mr.  Bolitho's 
collection  was  the  best  ever  seen  at  the  exhibition 
and  contained  several  very  rare  subjects.  Mr.  Uext's 
stand,  though  bright,  was  composed  of  commoner  plants. 
Six  hard-wooded  flowering  shrubs  or  climbers,  first,  Mr. 
T.  B.  Bolitho.  A  cultural  commendation  was  given  to 
Mr.  T,  H.  Archer-Hind  for  a  collection  of  Lenten  Helle- 
bores. 

A  bright  display  was  afl'orded  Ijy  the  nurserymen. 
Messrs.  R.  Veitch  and  Son,  Exeter,  who  received  an  award 
of  merit  for  Rhododendron  Dr.  Stocker,  staged  Acacia 
armata,  A.  verticillata,  Boronia  polygalifolia,  Chorizema 
cordata,  Gerbera  Jamesoni,  Witsenia  corymboaa,  Correa 
speciosa,  Cytisus  kewensis,  Leucopogon  Cuuninghamii, 
Exochorda  Albertii  macrantha.  Alburnum  macrocepbalum, 
Pentapterygium  serpens  and  various  rock  plants. 

The  Devon  Rosery,  Torquay,  showed  many  of  the  new 
Roses,  such  as  Lady  Quartus  Ewart,  Countess  ot  l)erby, 
Mrs.  M.  G.  Martin,  .John  Cuff^,  (Jueen  of  Spain,  Souvenir  de 
Marie  Zayas,  Elizabeth  Barnes,  Dorothy  Page-Roberta  and 
MoUie  Sharman  Crawford,  as  well  as  many  old  favourites. 
Award  of  merit. 

Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  who  received  an  award  of  merit  and 
cultural  commendation  for  Calypso  borealis,  exhibited  an 
excellent  selection  of  rock  plants  and  others,  including 
Soldanella  pusilla,  Tecophilea  cyanocrocus,  Saponaria 
cfespitosa,  Viola  gracilis,  Asperula  ciliata,  Campanula 
gloriosa,  Gentiana  acaulis  alba,  Houstonia  cjcrulea, 
Linaria  organifolia,  Schizocodon  soldanelloides  and  Liralja 
olynipica. 

Messrs.  Cutbush  and  Son  showed  Daphne  oleoides,  Azalea 
yodogama.  Xanthoceras  sorbifolia,  Ledum  latifoliuni, 
Erysimum  helveticum,  Rhodora  canadensis,  Rhododendron 
raeeraosum,  Kalmiaglauca,  Sangninaria  canadensis,  Araliis 
aubrietioides,  Iris  bucharica,  Myosotis  rupicola,  Menziesia 
empetrifolia  and  other  plants.    Award  of  merit. 

Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  staged  a  s[dendid  collection  of 
Daffodils,  including  Cloth  of  Gold,  Blood  Orange,  Gipsy 
Lad,  Gloria  Mundi,  Vivid,  Royal  Star,  Cygnet,  Apricnt, 
Firebrand,  Magpie,  Peter  Barr,  Mrs.  G.  H.  Barr  and  many 
other  novelties,  and  were  granted  an  award  of  merit. 

A  similar  distinction  was  accorded  to  Messrs.  Cartwright 
andGondwin.  who  made  a  fine  display  of  Daffodils,  com- 
prising triandrus  hybrids.  Ibis.  White  Queen,  Diaphenia, 
Eyebright,  Lady  Astrophel,  Copeland  Leedsii,  Circlet, 
Judge  Bird,  Leading  Lady  and  Goldseeker. 

Messrs.  Heath  and  Son,  Cheltenham,  showed  a  collection 
of  scented-leaved  Pelargoniums  and  a  collection  of  rock 
plants,  including  Primula  denticulata,  Lotus  pelijorhyncus, 
Erodium  pelargonifolium,  Draba  grandiflora,  D.  aizoides, 
Lathyrus  cyaneus,  Glaucium  flavum  tricolor  and  many 
Saxifrages.    Award  of  merit. 

DEVON  DAFFODIL  AND  SPRING  FLOWER  SOCIETV. 

Thi;  annual  exhibition  was  held  in  the  Guildhall, 
Plymouth,  on  April  20  and  21.  The  number  of  entries 
constituted  a  record  in  the  annals  of  the  society.  Fifty- 
four  exhibitors  were  represented  by  :;20  entries.  In  the 
section  contined  to  the  county  of  Devon  several  classes  had 
from  fourteen  to  sixteen  exhibits  staged.  The  centre  of 
tlie  hall,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  space  at  the  end 
away  from  the  door,  was  filled  with  Dattodils,  while  round 
the  sides  were  tlie  various  trade  exhibits  and  the  flowering 
shrub  classes.  These  last  did  not  seem  to  be  as  gond  as 
usual  ;  still,  the  winning  collection  of  Mr.  T.  B.  Bolitho 
contained  many  choice  things,  such  as  Phillyrea  decora, 
Viburnum  rugosum,  Eniliotlirium  coccineum  and  other 
good  plants.  A  tent  in  the  large  space  outside  was  con- 
nected with  the  main  building  by  a  covered  way  and 
formed  an  annexe.  Here  were  most  of  the  pot  plants, 
such  as  flowering  shrubs,  Schizanthus,  Tulips,  Lilies  of  the 
Valley,  Primroses  in  baskets.  Cyclamen  and  Auriculas. 
The  Misses  Carew  sent  some  wonderful  Cyclamen  that 
were  fifteen  years  old.  The  corras  were  verv  large  and 
quite  filled  a  12-inch  pot.    They  were  very  well  flowered      j 

Two  noteworthy  Daft'odil  blooms  were  the  White  Queen 
of  Miss  Clarice  Vivian  and  the   White  Lady  from  Mrs.  I 


Tyacke  in  the  single  bloom  classes.  Both  were  fine 
examples  of  the  perfection  to  which  Itaffodil  culture  can 
be  brought.  There  was  a  distinct  improvement  in  the 
number  of  entries  for  the  spring  flower  classes  and  in  the 
quality  of  the  blooms  staged.  Both  the  Perpetual-flower- 
ing Carnations  and  the  cut  Roses  were  tilled  and  made  an 
interesting  change  from  the  beaten  track.  Captain  Parlby 
is  the  secretary  of  the  society,  and  worked  hard  to  get 
together  such  an  interesting  show.  The  following  were 
some  of  the  principal  prize-winners  :  Mrs.  Tyacke,  Miss  C. 
Vivian,  Messrs.  Pope  and  Son,  Miss  M.  Williams,  Mrs. 
Christy,  Mr.  Soltau  Svmons,  Mr.  H.  W.  Grigg.  air.  J.  C. 
Williams,  Mr.  H.  G.  Hawker  (treasurer)  and  Mrs.  Parlby. 

The  trade  exhibits  were  very  good.  Messrs.  H.  Veitch 
and  Sous,  Exeter,  had  a  miscellaneous  group  consisting 
of  Acacias  (variable).  Clematis,  alpines,  rock  plants, 
Amaryllis,  Rhododendron  arboreum  roseum,  also  R.  L>r. 
Stocker,  Carnations,  Cineraria  stellata  and  forced  shrubs. 
The  feature  of  the  Devon  Nursery,  Torquay,  was  its  pot 
Roses.  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  staged  Admiral  Togo,  Henri 
Vilmorin  (wliite  long -trumpet),  Lucifer,  Salmonetta, 
Maggie  ilay  and  Weardale,  with  a  few  alpines  in  pots. 
Mr.  W.  .T.  Godfrey  made  a  good,  bright  show  witli  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  interspersed  with  Ferns,  such  as  Nephrolepis 
exaltata^var.  todeaioides.  Messrs.  Edwards  (senior)  had 
"  Edwardian*'  vases. 


EAST   ANGLIAN    HORTICULTURAL    CLUB. 

That  ever  interesting  subject,  "  Birds  in  the  Garden,"  was 
the  subject  of  a  most  instructive  paper  given  Ijy  Mr.  H. 
Goude,  head-gardener  at  The  Grange,  Old  Gatton,  Norwich, 
before  the  members  of  the  East  Anglian  Horticultural 
Clul  I  at  their  Apri  1  meeting.  The  essayist  stated  that  after 
twenty  years"  observation  his  conclusion  was  that  birds 
were  more  foes  than  friends.  True,  some  were  more  useful 
than  others  ;  but  it  seemed  to  him  that  the  birds  did  not 
do  their  work  thoroughly— we  had  to  co-operate  with  them 
in  the  destruction  of  insect  pests,  and  with  the  present 
knowledge  of  insecticides  and  equipments  we  could  as 
well  do  the  work  thoroughly  as  partially.  He  did 
not  advocate  the  eradication  of  birds,  as  they  were  part  of 
the  country-side  life,  but  their  virtues  as  friends  of 
gardeners  were  being  too  much  over-estimated.  An 
animated  discussion  followed  the  paper. 


COLCHESTER     ROSE    AND    HORTICULrVRAL 
SOCIETV. 

THiy  year  the  above  society  held  a  spring  exhibition  on 
April  22  in  place  of  the  usual  June  show,  the  latter  being 
abandoned  on  account  of  a  grand  pageant  taking  place  at 
that  date.  Tlie  committee,  of  which  Air.  0.  G.  Orpen  is 
the  chairman  and  who  does  so  much  to  make  the  show  a 
success,  certainly  deserves  to  be  highly  congratulated  on 
the  cut-flower  classes,  in  which  there  were  splendid 
exhibits,  both  as  regards  quality  and  quantity.  The  fruit 
and  vegetable  classes  were  poor,  but  the  plant  groups 
were  good,  and  there  were  some  really  splendid  exhibits 
staged  by  the  trade.  The  Lilies,  Tulips  and  rock  plants 
of  Messrs.  R.  Wallace  and  Co.,  Colchester;  Carnations 
from  Messrs.  Cutbush,  Higbgate  ;  and  Roses  from  Messrs. 
B.  and  F.  Cant,  Colchester,  were  very  fine. 

The  best  group  of  plants  came  from  Mrs.  H.  de  Larpent, 
Holwood,  Lexden  Pi-oad,  Colchester  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  W. 
Richardson),  this  being  composed  of  excellent  flowering 
plants  well  set  up.  Mr.  H.  Draper,  Colchester,  was 
second  with  a  good  exhibit,  which  contained  too  many 
plants  of  Cineraria  stellata.  For  smaller  collections  of 
plants  there  was  good  competition,  and  the  premier  position 
was  secured  by  H.  Goody,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  H. 
Spurgeon),  Lexden  Road.  Here  bulbs  and  foliage  plants 
predominated.  E.  J.  Saunders,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  J. 
Woods),  Lexden  Road,  Colchester,  was  a  close  second, 
having  excellent  Arum  Lilies,  Coleus  and  bulbous  plants. 
The  Right  Hon.  J.  Round  (gardener,  Jlr.  H.  Bishop),  Birch 
Hall,  Colrhester,  was  third. 

Dinner-table  decorations  are  always  a  great  feature  at 
Colchester,  and,  as  usual,  these  were  notable  for  their 
chaste  design  and  colouring.  A  noted  prize-winner  was 
again  to  the  front  in  Miss  A.  F.  Harwood,  Colchester, 
with  a  splendid  table,  in  which  Solomon's  Seal  and  Gypao- 
phila  played  an  important  part.  Mrs.  H.  Turner,  Bure, 
Colchester,  was  a  good  second  with  Azalea  mollis  and 
Grasses  ;  and  Airs.  Butcher,  Ipswich,  third. 

There  were  some  very  fine  exhibits  in  the  class  for  bowls 
and  vases  of  mixed  flowers,  and  here  Airs.  0.  G.  Orpen, 
W^est  Bergbolt,  was  an  excellent  first,  having  Azalea 
mollis  and  Narcissus  Leedsii,  Mrs.  H.  Turner  being  second 
with  Carnations  and  Airs.  Cooke,  Birch,  third. 

For  a  basket  of  cut  flowers  Mrs.  i»..  G.  Orpen  was  again 
an  easy  first  with  a  splendid  arrangement  of  Arum  Lily, 
Odontoglossum  crispum  and  coloured  foliage,  Mrs.  T.  H. 
Cooke  being  second  and  Aliss  Harwood  third.  There  was 
a  large  number  of  exhibitors  in  this  class.  The  best  bowl 
of  Narcissi  was  from  Mrs.  Cooke,  Airs.  G.  H.  Saville, 
Woodbridge,  being  second  and  Miss  Hammond  third, 
there  beine  twelve  exhibitors. 

The  class  for  twenty-four  cut  Roses  was  not  contested 
as  one  would  expect  in  this  great  Rose  centre.  Messrs. 
B.  R.  Cant,  Colchester,  were  first  with  a  very  beautiful 
lot  of  blooms.  Bouquets  were  good,  and  here  Mrs.  O.  G. 
Orpen  was  first  with  a  charming  arrangement;  Airs. 
Weller-Copford  was  second  and  Miss  Harwood  third.  The 
last-named  exhibitor  led  for  sprays.  Miss  J.  E.  Bentley, 
Tollesbnnt  d'Arcy,  being  second. 

For  collections  of  Naicissi  there  was  less  competition 
than  one  would  expect  for  such  good  prizes.  Alajor  W. 
O.  Cantley-Nowton  was  first  for  twelve  varieties.  The 
vases  were  a  weak  class.  Messrs.  Osborne  and  Draper 
won  in  the  order  named  for  Cineraria  stellata,  audR.  Dow, 


Esq.,  for  otlier  varieties.  For  Hyacinths  in  pots  Mr.  Dow 
and  Miss  AI.  Croydon  had  good  flowers,  and  for  Narcissi 
in  pots  Miss  M.  Croydon  had  the  best  plants  and  Messrs 
Dow  and  Sanders  were  first  in  the  smaller  collections. 
Mrs.  H.  de  Larpent  had  the  best  Mignonette  in  pots.  Mr. 
Dow  being  second.  The  last  named  was  first  for  Tulips. 
Air.  Sanders  staged  excellently  coloured  Primroses  and 
Polyanthuses  in  both  classes  devoted  to  these. 

The  best  salad  in  collections  came  from  the  Right  Hon. 
J.  Round;  A.  T.  Osborn,  Esq.,  was  second;  and  E  J 
Sanders,  Esq.,  third.  For  Rhubarb  Messrs.  Good,  Round 
and  Chapman  won  ;  and  for  Strawberries  m  pots  the  prize 
went  to  the  Right  Hon.  J.  Round,  and  to  Mr.  Sanders 
forgathered  fruits.  Air.  0.  G.  Orpen  had  the  best  collec- 
tion of  Apples,  showhig  very  good  dishes,  well  kept  and 
of  good  colour. 

It  was  evidently  too  early  for  Asparagus,  thou^li 
Colchester  is  one  of  the  great  growing  centres.  Mr.  A. 
Harwood  had  the  best  exhibit,  Mr.  Chapman  being  second. 
For  forced  Beans,  E.  J.  Saunders,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr. 
Woods),  was  first;  A.  T.  Osborne,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr. 
Gibbs),  second  ;  and  the  Right  Hon.  J.  Round  third.  R. 
Dow,  Esq.,  Hasketon,  had  the  best  Broccoli. 

A  great  feature  of  the  show  was  the  non-competitive 
exhibits.  Alessra.  R.  Wallace  and  Co.,  Colchester,  had  a 
very  fine  exhibit,  the  Crown  Imperials,  double  yellow  and 
rubra  maximus,  being  most  notable.  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant 
had  splendid  Roses,  the  new  seedling  Cerise  being  a  grand 
flower,  and  William  Shean  was  staged  in  quantity. 
Messrs.  Cutbush,  Highgate,  had  a  very  fine  group  of 
Carnations,  staging  the  new  Malmaison  Lady  Coventry. 
Messrs.  Notcutt,  Woodbridge,  had  a  very  choice  group 
of  forced  shrubs  in  bloom  in  great  variety,  som? 
I:)eautiful  specimens  being  staged.  Alessrs.  D.  Prior  and 
Sons  staged  an  excellent  group  of  Roses ;  and  Messrs.  R.  H. 
Hath,  Wisbech,  a  good  collection  of  Narcissi,  Pansies 
and  other  spring  flowers.  Alessrs.  Dobiiie  and  Co.  had 
very  flne  Violas,  beautifully  set  up  with  grand  Pansies  ; 
and  Alessrs.  Charles  Turner,  Slough,  staged  very  beautiful 
Auriculas,  the  flowers  of  which  required  a  few  more  days 
to  be  quite  open. 

NEW  BARNET  AAIATEUR  GARDENERS'  SOCIEIY. 
Th  k  members  of  the  above  society  held  their  annual  spring 
show  at  the  Baptist  Hall,  New  Barnet,  on  Saturday, 
April  17.  A  good  show  of  Narcissi  (cut  blooms,  in  pots 
and  bowls)  was  made,  other  exhibits  being  hardy  cut 
flowers  and  plants,  shrub  and  tree  blossom,  table  decora- 
tions, &c.,  which  made  up  a  very  interesting  collection. 
The  judge  (Air.  T.  W.  Sanders,  F.LS.)  complimented  the 
members  on  the  exhibition,  which  he  said  he  was  pleased 
to  see  maintained  the  high  standard  of  the  society.  Special 
prizes  were  awarded  to  Airs.  Jones,  for  table  decorations  ; 
Air.  Rourke,  for  three  grand  blooms  of  Narcissi :  and  Mr.' 
Jones,  for  a  beautiful  Azalea.  The  secretaries,  .^ressrs. 
A.  W.  Bull  and  W.  Poultney,  will  be  pleased  to  furnish 
information  to  any  lady  or  gentleman  residing  in  the  dis- 
trict desirous  of  becoming  a  member  of  the  above  society. 
The  summer  show  will  be  held  on  July  :i  next. 


BROUGHTV  FERRY  HORTICULTURAL  ASSOCIATION. 

Thk  usual  monthly  meeting  of  the  above  association  was 
held  in  the  British  Restaurant  on  the  evening  of  April  2(i, 
when  there  was  a  large  attendance,  presided  over  by  Mr. 
William  Ross.  There  were  on  exhibition  some  vases  of 
fine  Tulips  from  the  Monifieth  nurseries  of  Alessrs.  W.  P. 
Laird  and  Sinclair,  and  half-a-dozen  pots  of  Cyclamen 
from  Mr.  Bell,  Corona  Gardens.  The  Cyclamen  were 
splendid  examples  of  modern  practice,  and  reflected  great 
credit  upon  their  grower.  The  lecture  of  the  evening  was 
on  "  The  Cultivation  of  the  Melon,"  and  the  author.  Air. 
.1.  W.  Robertson  of  Lethara  Grange  Gardens,  succeeded  in 
holding  the  attention  of  his  audience  during  the  delivery 
of  a  thoroughly  practical  paper,  in  which  he  dealt  fully 
with  the  cultivation  of  this  invaluable  garden  product. 
Air.  Robertson  was  accorded  a  hearty  vote  of  thanks. 


READING    GARDENEES'    ASSOCIATION. 
The  final  meeting  of  the  spring  session  took  place  in  the- 
Abbey  Hall  on  Monday,  April  iw,  when  there  was  a  very 
large     attendance     of    members.      The   president,    Mr. 
Alderman  F.  B.  Patfilt,  occupied  the  chair. 

The  evening  was  devoted  to  the  following  competitions, 
all  the  woi  k  being  done  in  the  room.  Five  small  vases  of 
flowers  suitable  for  a  breakfast  table,  arranged  for  eft'ect. 
fifteen  minutes  allowed  for  arrangement  (open  to  head- 
gardeners,  single-handed  gardeners  and  foremen  only): 
First,  H.  Goodger  ;  second,  W.  Butler;  third,  H.  C. Loader. 
Vase  of  flowers  arranged  for  effect,  open  to  members 
(head-gardeners,  single-handed  gardeners  and  foremen 
excepted) :  First,  A.  E.  Bolton  ;  second,  H.  Prince  ;  third, 
S.  Judd.  Bowl  of  flowers  arranged  for  effect  (open  to  those 
who  had  never  won  a  prize):  First,  E.  Webb;  second,  A. 
Francis;  third.  F.  Goodger.  The  judges  were  Alessrs.  T. 
Tunbridgp,  A.  F.  Bailey  and  R.  A.  Hattou,  and  their  work, 
owing  to  the  closeness  of  the  competitions,  was  particularly 
arduous.  This  meeting  had  bei  n  [^elected  for  the  annual 
hospital  night,  when  members  biing  flowers,  which  are 
next  day  sent  to  the  Royal  Berkshire  Hospital.  Over  Ibb 
bunches  were  brought  in.  A  collection  on  behalf  of  the 
funds  of  the  above-mentioned  excellent  institution  was 
made  by  the  association's  representative,  Air.  F.  W.  Exler, 
the  sum  of  €3  Is.  being  realised.  On  the  proposal  of  Air. 
Tunbridge,  seconded  by  Air.  Exler,  Air.  0.  Hinton.oneofthe 
"  Fathers"  of  the  association,  was  elected  a  life-member. 
Votes  of  thanks  were  accorded  to  Alessrs.  Watson  and  Son,. 
AUnster  Street,  for  kindly  lending  vases  and  bowls  ;  to  Mr. 
J,  Phillips  for  the  U86  of  the  tables  ;  to  the  judges  and  to- 
the  president.    Two  new  members  were  elected. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN.  May  %th,  1909. 


NEW    YELLOW    PERPETUAL    CARNATION 
QUEEN    OF    SPAIN. 


Hudsiin  dV-  Keiirns.  Ltd.,  Printers,  London,  S.E. 


t^    A^^a?V'.,  --^  ^^ 


a?^^®- 


GARDEN. 


No.  1956.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


May  15,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Best  Perennials 

AHD  Biennials      . .    237 

Prizes  for  Keaders      . .    338 

Notes  op  the  Week 

Forthcoming  events      23S 

Royal  National  Tulip 

Society    238 

COKKESFONSENOE 

A     National     Vege- 
table Society..     ..    238 

rioriferoua  Crocus  . .     239 

The  Snowy  Meapilua 
in  Warwick     .     . .    239 

Treatment  of  Daffo- 
dils after  flowering    239 

Artificial  manures  . .    239 
Daffodil    and    Tulip 

notes 239 

In     praise     of     lowly 

beauty 240 

Feutt  Gakdem 

How   to   grow  fruit 
trees  in  pots  . .     . .    240 

Fruit  notes       ..     ..    240 

Trees  and  Shrubs 
Daphne  blagayana  , 
The  Golden  Bell      . 

KrroHEN  Garden 
Sugar     Peas 

summer  use   . .     . 
Outdoor  Tomatoes  . 


241 
241 


for 


241 

241 


best 


Rose  Garden 
Some     of     the 
white  Roses 
Flower  Garden 
Canterbury  Bells  and 

their  culture  . .     . .    243 
The  hardy  Primulas      243 
Gardbnins  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        244 

Staking  Sweet  Peas       244 
Newly    planted 

shrubs      

Work     among      the 

Strawberries  . .     . . 

Hints   on    manuring 

flower-beds     ..     ..     245 

The  Town  Garden  ..    246 

gardbhin8  of  the  week 

For    the  South   and 

SoQth  Midlands    ..     246 
For  the   Kortb   and 
North  Uldlandg  ..    246 

New  plants 247 

Primula  Forrestii       . .    247 
Daffodils  at  Surbiton  . .    247 
Answers    to    Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  ^.     . .    24S 
Greenhouse       ..     ..    248 
Fruit  garden     ..     ..    248 
Miscellaneous  ..     ..    248 


242 


245 


245 


ILIiUSTRATIONS. 

The  Snowy  Mespilus  in  a  Warwick  garden 239 

Daphne  blagayana  in  a  Lincolnshire  garden       . .     . ,    241 

The  new  Primula  Forrestii 242 

The  Golden  Bell  {Forsythia  suspensa)    243 

Staking  Sweet  Peas 244,245 


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THE    BEST    PERENNIALS 
AND    BIENNIALS. 

How  TO  Raise  Them  from  Seed. 
(First  Prize  Essay.) 

THE  raising  of  hardy  plants  from  seeds 
has  much  of  interest  to  lovers  of  this 
class  of  plants.  Besides  ensuring 
much  more  vigorous  plants,  there  is 
always  the  chance  of  obtaining  among 
the  seedlings  something  which  may  be  an  improve- 
ment on  the  type,  either  in  colour,  habit  or  form 
of  flower.  A  great  many  of  our  ordinary  her- 
baceous plants  are  quite  easily  propagated  in  this 
manner,  and  where  large  numbers  are  required  it 
is  by  far  the  best  method  of  procedure  to  ensure 
large  stocks  at  small  cost  and  with  only  a  com- 
paratively short  time  to  wait  for  results. 

Time  to  Sow. 
If  sown  early  many  perennials  will  bloom  the 
Srst  season  ;  but  I  am  not  certain  that  this  is 
advisable,  as  the  plants  are  thereby  weakened 
and  often  fail  to  give  satisfaction  in  after  years. 
While  not  recommending  very  early  sowing,  I 
am  of  opinion  that  June,  so  often  recommended 
as  the  proper  time,  is  much  too  late.  For  the 
bulk  of  hardy  perennials  I  recommend  the  middle 
of  April  or  a  little  later  as  ensuring  much  finer 
plants  for  setting  out  in  their  permanent  quarters 
either  in  autumn  or  spring.  While  all  the  com- 
moner, strong-growing  kinds  can  be  sown  on  a 
sheltered  border  of  light  soil  out  of  doors,  I  think 
very  much  better  results  are  to  be  obtained  by 
devoting  a  cold  frame  to  this  important  object. 
I  will  go  further  and  say  that  all  the  finer  sorts 
should  be  sown  in  pans  or  boxes  and  placed  in  a 
cold  pit  or  frame.  This  not  only  ensures  a  better 
germination,  but  slugs  are  more  easily  guarded 
against  and  the  sowing  of  the  seed  may  be  under- 
taken during  bad  weather,  as  may  also  the 
pricking  off  of  the  seedlings.  Any  good  light 
compost  will  do  for  filling  the  pans  or  boxes, 
such  as  is  used  for  raising  half-hardy  annuals. 
Another  reason  why  boxes  or  pans  should  be 
used  is  because  many  plants  produce  very  minute 
seeds,  and  these,  if  sown  on  a  border,  are  apt  to 
be  too  deeply  covered.  On  a  border,  too,  it  is 
more  diflSeult  to  keep  down  weeds  ;  and,  indeed, 
taken  all  in  all,  the  use  of  pans  or  boxes,  for  all 
the  smaller-seeded  kinds  at  least,  has  everything 
to  recommend  it.  Where  possible,  only  one  kind 
should  be  sown  in  a  box,  as  there  is  such  a  great 
difference  in  the  time  of  germination  of  the 
various  species. 

Treatment  of  the  Seedlings. 
After  the   seedlings   are   fit   to   handle,    they 
should  be  carefully   pricked  off  into  prepared 
beds,  or,  in  the  case  of  more  valuable  kinds,  into 


other  boxes.  It  will  at  this  stage  be  well  to 
decide  how  many  of  each  kind  is  likely  to  be 
required,  and  to  prick  off  only  a  few  more  than 
will  fulfil  requirements.  Label  all  correctly,  as 
nothing  is  more  annoying  at  planting-time  than 
to  be  unable  to  tell  the  colours  of  the  various 
plants  required  for  any  purpose.  In  preparing  a 
border  for  pricking  out  seedlings,  the  ground 
should  be  thoroughly  well  broken  up  and  abund- 
ance of  leaf-mould  mixed  with  it.  This  will  cause 
the  plants  to  make  numerous  fibrous  roots,  which 
will  lift  with  a  fine  ball  of  earth  attached  later 
on.  Summer  treatment  consists  in  keeping  down 
weeds  and  frequently  stirring  the  soil  among  the 
plants.  In  warm  districts  autumn  planting  is 
commendable,  but  in  cold,  late  districts  in  the 
North,  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  middle 
of  April  is  preferable.  Subsequent  treatment  is 
similar  to  that  necessary  for  plants  raised  from 
cuttings  or  by  division. 

Kinds  to  Raise  from  Seed. 

A  list  of  the  best  plants  that  may  be  raised  by 
the  method  above  described  may  now  be  given. 
Acanthus  mollis  lusitanicus,  A.  spinosus, 
Achillea  Ptarmioa  fiore-pleno,  A.  serioea,  Adonis 
vernalis,  Alstrcemeria,  Alyssum  saxatile,  A.  s. 
oitrinum,  Anchusa  italica  Dropmore  variety. 
Anemones  ot  sorts,  Aquilegia,  Aster  (Michael- 
mas Daisy),  Astilbe  Davidii,  Auricula,  Baptisia, 
Bocconia  eordata,  B.  microcarpa.  Campanulas  of 
sorts,  Catananche,  Centranthus  (Valerian),  Core- 
opsis grandiflora,  Delphinium,  Dianthus  of  sorts, 
Dictamnus,  Digitalis,  Dodecatheon,  Eremurus, 
Erigeron  speciosus,  Eryngium  alpinum,  Franooa 
appeudiculata,  Gaillardia  of  sorts,  Galega, 
Geranium  armenum,  Geums  of  sorts,  Gypso- 
phila  paniculata,  Helleborus  of  sorts,  Heuchera, 
Iberis,  Incarvillea  Delavayii,  Inula  glandulosa. 
Iris  of  sorts,  Kniphofia,  Lathyrus  of  sorts, 
Linum  flavum,  L.  perenne,  Lithospermum  multi- 
florum,  Lobelia  syphilitica,  Lupinus  arboreus  and 
its  varieties,  L.  polyphyllus  in  variety.  Lychnis 
ohalcedonica,  L.  Walkerii,  L.  Visearia  plena, 
Malva  moschata,  M.  m.  alba,  Monarda  didyma, 
CEnotheras,  Orobus,  Papaver  alpinum,  P.  orien- 
tale,  P.  nudieaule.  Phlox,  Physalis  Alkekengii, 
Polyanthus,  Primrose,  Primulas  of  sorts,  Rud- 
beckia,  Scabiosa  cauoasica,  Sidaloea,  Statiee 
latifolia.  Sweet  William,  Thalictrum  of  sorts, 
TroUius,  Veronicas  and  Wulfenia  oarinthiaca. 
Many  more  hardy  perennials  are  easily  raised 
from  seed,  but  the  above  should  be  compre- 
hensive enough  for  most  requirements. 

Biennials. 

The  number  of  really  biennial  plants  that  are 
of  use  for  garden  decoration  is  very  limited, 
but  several  of  our  finest  and  most  useful  perennials 
are  often  classed  as  such,  and  certainly  are  most 


238 


I'HE     (iAltDEN. 


[May  15,  190i> 


useful  and  successful  when  treated  as  biennials. 
One  has  only  to  mention  the  single  Wallflower  to 
prove  the  above  statement.  No  one  ever  thinks 
of  this  delightful  spring  flower  as  a  herbaceous 
plant,  although  it  is  in  reality  a  true  perennial. 
And  so  it  is  with  several  other  favourites.  A 
short  list  of  plant.s  that  are  either  true  biennials, 
or  perennials  that  are  best  cultivated  as  such, 
may  be  here  given  :  Anchusa  capensis,  Canter- 
bury Bells,  Lunaria  biennis  (Honesty),  Meconopsis 
Wallachii,  Myosotis,  (lEnothera  lamarckiana, 
Onopordon  taurieum.  Lychnis  coronaria  atro- 
sangiiinea  (Agrostemma),  Silybum,  Verbascum 
and  Wallflower.  As  with  the  perennials,  I  re- 
commend sowing  the  smallest-seeded  varieties  in 
boxes  and  growing  in  a  cold  frame  for  a  time. 
Of  course.  Wallflowers,  Honesty  and  IHnothera 
do  not  require  this  care,  but  I  think  the  others 
repay  the  extra  trouble.  Many  sow  seeds  of 
these  too  late  to  allow  of  the  plants  getting  into 
a  fair  size  before  planting  time.  I  find  that 
about  the  end  of  April  is  a  very  satisfactory  time 
for  this  work  here  in  the  North.  In  the  South  a 
month  later  would  do.  Prick  out  in  good  time, 
giving  plenty  of  room  between  the  plants,  and 
this  is  about  all  that  is  required,  plus  a  frequent 
stirring  of  the  soil  during  summer.  Plant  in 
the  flowering  quarters  in  October. 

Preston  House,  Linlithgow.  C.  Blair. 


MOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FOKTHCOMINQ     EVENTS. 

May  18.— Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flcwers,  Fruit  and  Vegetables,  1  p.m. 
to  6  p.m.  Lecture  at  3  p.m.,  by  Mr.  A.  Glutton 
Brock,  on  "Alpines  in  Their  Native  Homes." 
Tulip  Society's  Show.  Royal  Horticultural  Hall, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 

Royal  National  Tulip  Society. 

The  sixteenth  annual  southern  exhibition  in 
connexion  with  the  above  society  will  be  held  at 
the  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  West- 
minster, on  Tuesday,  the  ISth  inst.  Full 
particulars  can  be  obtained  from  the  hon. 
secretary,  Mr.  W.  Peters,  Farcet  House, 
Cambridge. 

The    Royal   Gapdeneps'   Opphan 

Fund. — The  annual  festival  and  dinner  in 
connexion  with  this  praiseworthy  fund  was  held 
at  the  Hotel  Cecil,  Strand,  London,  on  Thursday, 
May  6,  when  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Rutland, 
supported  by  N.  N.  Sherwood,  Esq.,  presided 
over  126  guests.  Among  those  present  were 
Messrs.  E.  Sherwood  (treasurer),  E.  White, 
W.  G.  Baker,  Dr.  Keeble,  George  Bunyard,  J. 
CoUingridge,  James  Douglas,  H.  B.  May,  D. 
Ingamells,  Percy  Champion,  E.  Rochford, 
Joseph  Rochford,  John  Rochford,  C.  P.  Kinnell, 
G.  H.  Barr,  B.  H.  Lane,  J.  T.  Anderson, 
T.  W.  Sanders,  W.  Poupart,  G.  H.  Cuthbert, 
J.  T.  MoLeod,  D.  W.  Thomson,  G.  Reynolds, 
W.  R.  Alderson,  W.  Nutting,  E.  S.  Mansfield, 
G.  J.  Ingram  and  W.  S.  Thomson.  The  chairman, 
in  proposing  the  toast  of  "The  Fund,"  referred  to 
the  kind  interest  taken  in  it  by  Her  Majesty 
Queen  Alexandra,  who  is  the  patron  of  the  fund, 
and  also  referred  to  the  Budget  and  its  probable 
influence  on  market  gardening.  Mr.  Edward 
Sherwood,  in  responding,  made  a  most  vigorous 
and  interesting  speech,  and  stated  that  at 
present  142  orphans  were  receiving  benefit 
from  the  fund.  "Gardeners  and  Gardening" 
was  proposed  by  Mr.  E.  White  and  responded 
to  by  Dr.  Keeble,  in  the  unavoidable  absence 
of  Mr.  Leonard  Sutton.  "  The  Visitors " 
was  proposed  by  the  vice-president,  N.  N. 
Sherwood,  Esq.,  and  responded  to  by  Mr.  James 
Douglas.  Mr.  H.  B.  May  proposed  "  The 
Chairman,"  and  Mr.  W.  Poupart  "  The  Press," 
Mr.  J.  CoUingridge  responding  to  the  latter. 
The  total  amount  of  the  chairman's  list  was 
about  £800,  and  among  the  larger  contributors 
were  N.  N.  Sherwood,  Esq.,  and  his  sons,  £100; 


Messrs.  Rothschilds,  2.5  guineas  ;  Mr.  Leonard 
Sutton,  £50  ;  Baron  Schroder,  10  guineas  ;  Mr. 
George  Cuthbert,  £51  16s.  ;  Mr.  George 
Reynolds,  £44  2s.  6d.  :  Mr.  David  W.  Thomson, 
£2,5  4s.  ;  Mr.  J.  F.  McLeod,  £21  :  Mr.  E.  S. 
Mansfield.  £20 ;  Mr.  R.  H.  Pearson,  £17  Vs.  ; 
Mr.  W.  Nutting,  £1.5  9s.  6d.  :  Mr.  R.  B.  Ker, 
£12  lOs.  6d.  :  Mr.  F.  Noakes,  10  guineas  ;  Mr. 
J.  C.  Eno,  10  guineas;  and  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and 
Sons,  10  guineas.  The  Covent  Garden  friends  and 
supporters  of  the  fund  contributed  £195  lOs.  6d. 
collected  by  the  following  :  Mr.  D.  Ingamells, 
£96  Is.  ;  Mr.  E.  Parsons,  £61  18s.  6d.  ;  and  Mr. 
W.  Poupart,  £37  lis.  As  usual,  the  floral 
decorations,  kindly  undertaken  by  Mr.  R.  F. 
Felton,  were  of  a  very  graceful  character,  pot 
plants  being  supplied  by  Messrs.  .J.  Veitch  and 
Sons  and  Mr.  H.  B.  May.  Cut  flowers  were 
supplied  by  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  ^Nlr.  Walter 
T.  Ware,  Messrs.  T.  Rochford  and  Sons,  Limited, 
Messrs.  F.  Sander  and  Sons,  Mr.  A.  F.  Dutton, 
Mr.  James  Walker,  Messrs.  Low  and  Shawyer, 
Limited,  Mr.  W.  H.  Page  and  Mr.  W.  Stevens. 
Excellent  arrangements  were  made  by  the 
secretary,  Mr.  Brian  Wynne. 

The  Isle  of  Wight  Rose  Society. 

The  exhibition  of  the  above  society  will  take 
place  at  Newport  on  Monday,  June  28  (Coronation 

Day). 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 


APRIL   COMPETITION.— AWARDS. 
In  this  competition  essays  on  "  The  Best  Peren- 
nials and  Biennials  for  the  Garden  and  How  to 
Raise  Them  from  Seed  "  were  asked  for.     The 
prizes  are  awarded  as  follows  : 

First  prize  of  four  guineas  to  Mr.  C.  Blair, 
Preston  House,  Linlithgow. 

Second  prize  of  two  guineas  to  Mr.  Cecil  Davies, 
Stanmore  Road,  Stevenage,  Herts. 

Third  prize  of  one  guinea  to  Mr.  John  Botley, 
Scarlett's  Park,  Twyford,  Berks. 

Fourth  prize  of  half-a-guinea  to  Mr.  W.  L. 
Lavender,  Waltham  Manor  Gardens,  Twyford, 
Berks. 

The  essays  sent  in  were  not  quite  so  numerous 
as  usual,  probably  owing  to  most  gardeners  being 
very  busy  outdoors.  The  quality  was  also  of  a 
widely  divergent  character. 

Those  from  the  following  are  highly  com- 
mended :  W.  H.  Morton,  Ellamcote,  Gloucester ; 
E.  G.  Extence,  3,  South  Terrace,  Eedland, 
Bristol;  C.  W.  Caulfield,  Stanford-Ie-Hope, 
Essex  ;  G.  Cope,  Umberslade  Road,  Solly  Oak, 
Birmingham  ;  F.  Lansdell,  Desford,  Leicester  ; 
and  Miss  S.  Randolph,  Chartham  Rectory, 
Canterbury. 

CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

A  National  Vegretable  Society.— 

As  a  vegetable-grower  for  nearly  forty  years, 
naturally  my  sympathies  are  in  accord  with  the 
suggestions  recently  made  by  Mr.  Dean  and 
others  in  The  Garden  respecting  the  formation 
of  a  National  Vegetable  Society  for  the  purpose 
of  stimulating  a  greater  interest,  to  give  more 
encouragement  and,  generally,  to  raise  the  tone 
and  status  of  this  branch  of  agri-horticultural 
industry  to  the  high  position  its  importance  as  a 
food-producing  agency  entitles  it  to  occupy. 
Considered  strictly  from  a  utilitarian  and 
economic  standpoint,  few  will  dispute  the 
premier  position  it  is  entitled  to  hold  in  practical 
horticulture.  But  how  to  secure  to  this  pro- 
posed national  society  the  patronage  and  practical 
financial  support  of  the  general  public  in  so  large 
a  measure  as  to  warrant  the  formation  of  such  a 
society  exclusively  devoted  to  its  interest  is 
another  matter.     We  have  ample  proof  in  the 


experience  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
that  even  in  the  case  of  fruit  shows,  when 
confined  to  fruit  alone,  however  instructive 
or  popular  they  are  with  gardeners,  they 
entirely  fail  to  arouse  the  enthusiasm  or  to 
secure  any  practical  support  to  speak  of  from  the 
public.  I  much  fear  we  have  no  good  reason  or 
vaUd  ground  to  hope  for  better  success  in  regard 
to  vegetables.  For  such  a  society  to  possess  a 
prospect  of  a  permanent  and  a  useful  existence  it 
must  have  some  fairly  reliable  source  of  income 
to  depend  on.  It  seems  to  me,  therefore, 
that  before  a  start  is  made  or  subscriptions 
invited  to  establish  such  a  society,  this  question 
should  first  be  faced  and  solved.  It  has  been 
suggested  that  the  trade  should  handsomely 
support  such  a  project.  I  have  no  doubt 
that  it  would  liberally  support  any  well- 
considered  effort  to  promote  and  encourage  the 
higher  and  more  general  cultivation  of  vegetables, 
as  it  has  done  in  many  ways  in  the  past. 
But  the  trade  clearly  could  not  bear  the  chief 
brunt  of  the  cost  of  such  a  soeiety.  Neither 
should  it,  or  the  term  ' '  National  "  would  be  a 
misnomer.  The  Garden  has  been  the  first  to 
offer  support  to  any  practical  scheme  likely  to 
lead  to  a  successful  issue,  and  I  have  no  doubt 
that  other  sympathisers  would  follow,  but 
whether  in  sufficient  numbers  and  weight  to 
justify  a  start  remains  to  be  seen.  May  I 
suggest  that  a  committee  be  formed  to  talk 
matters  over  and  to  find  out  whether  there  is 
a  reasonable  prospect  of  success  attending  such  a 
society  if  established. — Owen  Thomas. 

I  am  very  much  interested  in  the  corre- 
spondence taking  place  in  The  Garden  re  a 
National  Vegetable  Society  and  Exhibition.  I 
consider  it  is  just  what  is  wanted  for  us 
gardeners,  especially  if  small  classes  are  provided 
similar  to  those  at  The  Garden  Show.  I  shall 
be  very  pleased  to  put  my  name  down  for  one 
mem  ber,  for  I  consider  that  vegetables  need  more 
consideration  than  is  provided  for  them  at  the 
majority  of  shows. — Harry  Edwards  (gardener 
to  C.  A.  Barry,  Esq.),  20,  Sydenham  Hill. 

The    notes    in    The    Garden    on    this 

subject  will,  I  trust,  be  the  means  of  establishing 
a  National  Vegetable  Society,  or,  at  least,  of 
bringing  together  those  interested  in  good  vege- 
tables. If  this  is  done,  The  Garden,, which jhas 
always  devoted  much  space  to  vegetable  culture, 
will  have  done  good  work  in  ventilating  such  an 
important  subject.  As  a  grower  of  vegetables 
for  many  years  and  a  lover  of  the  work,  I  do 
not  think,  as  one  correspondent  notes,  the  diffi- 
culty so  much  'concerns  the  amateur,  who  takes 
(as  stated)  so  little  interest  in  vegetables. 
Practical  gardeners  and  market  growers  should 
not  rely  too  much  on  amateurs  for  support. 
Even  at  most  important  exhibitions,  how  often 
has  the  real  lover  of  vegetables  to  fight  hard  to 
get  suitable  awards  for  his  exhibits  of  vegetables. 
In  framing  schedules  I  have  always  had  to  point 
out  that  vegetables  should  be  encouraged  as  much 
as  possible,  and  I  am  pleased  that  at  last  this 
fact  is  becoming  more  general.  As  "A.  D."  so 
ably  points  out,  to  get  a  strong  society  there 
must  be  much  support  from  the  trade ;  but  so  far 
as  I  have  observed  the  trade  has  never  failed  us  in 
any  scheme.  But  to  make  the  society  a  lasting 
success  we  must  (I  mean  those  who  grow  vege- 
tables) give  it  a  hearty  support.  A  show  or 
exhibition  is  not  sufficient ;  there  must  be  a 
determination  to  raise  this  important  branch  of 
the  garden  to  its  proper  position,  and  to  do  this 
should  not  be  so  difficult  among  the  many 
growers  who  think  that  vegetables  are  too 
much  in  the  background.  I  for  one  do  not 
place  so  much  importance  on  a  few  vegetable 
classes  at  a  show ;  what  we  want  is  much 
greater  interest  in  the  subject.  As  Mr.  Wood 
points  out,  there  should  be  ample  scope  for  a 
national  society,  and  I  am  sure  there  is  ample 
room  for  more  varied  displays.  Many  good 
vegetables  are  rarely  seen,  and  if  some  of  these 
were  made  more  popular  the  general  public 
would  benefit  greatly. — G.  Wythes. 


May  15,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


239 


Where  to  obtain  Ipon   hoops.— I 

think  your  correspondent  "Mrs.  W.  S."  will  be 
able  to  obtain  good  discarded  iron  hoops  from  a, 
brewery,  and  probably  both  iron    and  wooden 
ones  from  a  cooper. — Horace  Inman. 
The   Almonds   and    Peaches.— In 

reference  to  the  interesting  article  on  Prunus 
which  appeared  on  page  212,  a  very  important 
variety  has  been  left  out,  viz.,  P.  Maximowiczii, 
which  was  in  flower  here  in  December  last 
and  is  still  flowering,  as  you  can  see  by  the 
specimen  sent.  No  other  Prunus  can  do  this, 
and  as  a  tree  for  mild  localities  too  much  can- 
not be  said  for  it. — T.  Smith,  Daisy  Hill 
Nursery,  Neviry. 

FlOriferOUS  CpOCUS.— Replying  to  the 
enquiry  made  by  Mr.  E.  0.  Spencer  through  The 
Garden  of  April  10,  I  could  show  him  a  stock 
of  Crocus  in  which  bulb  after  bulb  was  recently 
bearing  fifteen  to  eighteen  blooms,  and  I  feel 
convinced  that,  had  I  the  time  to  go  over  the 
whole  batch  (250),  I  should  come  across  a  twenty- 
bloom  bulb,  if  not  more.  The  stock  is  Messrs. 
Dickson's,  Belfast.  Were  it  not  for  making  an 
unsightly  gap,  I  would  have  had  a  specimen 
lifted  and  forwarded  for  "The  Editor's  Table." 
— B.  HnNWtCK,  Kelvedon,  Essex. 

The  Snowy  Mespilus  In 
W^apwietc. — I  am  sending  you  a  photograph 
of  a  tree  now  in  bloom  which  I  believe  to  be  the 
Snowy  Mespilus  (Amelanchier  canadensis).  I  do 
not  know  of  another  in  this  district,  and  it  does 
not  seem  to  be  generally  known.  The  photo- 
graph does  not  do  justice  to  its  whiteness  or 
feathery  lightness,  and,  as  the  least  breeze 
disturbs  it,  some  indistinctness  is  the  result. — 
T.  Ward,  Emscote  Road,  Warwick.  [The  Snowy 
Mespilus. — Ed] 

Tpeatment  of  Daffodils  aftep 
flowePing< — Staying  recently  with  a  friend, 
I  was  invited  to  admire  his  Daffodils,  a  row  of 
about  fifty  in  a  small  border.  They  were  very 
good  and  had  been  entirely  out  off  with  shears 
close  to  the  ground  immediately  after  flowering 
in  1908.  I  had  been  previously  told  this  would 
kill  them,  but  perhaps  that  is  an  old-fashioned 
idea  not  borne  out  by  fact.  Would  you  tell  me  ? 
We  have  bulbs  (Crocus,  Snowdrop  and  Daffodil) 
by  the  thousand  here  in  grass,  and  should  be 
only  too  glad  to  be  able  to  mow  them  down 
directly  they  had  all  flowered.  —  B.  C.  F., 
Blandford. 

Aptiflcial  manupes.— I  reply  to  "A 
User  of  Spent  Hops,"  whose  second  letter 
appears  on  page  223  of  The  Garden  for  May  8. 
Taking  his  points  seriatim :  He  first  refers  to  the 
moisture  in  the  manure  and  gives  the  amount  in 
ordinary  spent  Hops  as  obtained  from  a  brewery 
68  '5  per  cent. ,  and  suggests  that  Wakeley's  Hop 
Manure  contains  50  per  cent.  Judging  by  the 
condition  of  ordinary  spent  Hops  as  obtained 
from  a  brewery,  from  which  moisture  can  fre- 
quently be  squeezed  in  drops,  I  should  not  think 
Wakeley's  Hop  Manure  contains  50  per  cent,  of 
moisture.  I  presume  that  it  would  be  very 
difficult  indeed  to  obtain  a  reliable  analysis  of 
the  moist  material.  The  second  point,  viz. ,  the 
analysis,  proves  conclusively  that  Wakeley's 
Hop  Manure  is  a  complete  and  useful  manure, 
whereas  the  only  plant  food  present  in  ordinary 
spent  Hops  in  any  appreciable  quantity  is 
nitrogen.  Now,  anyone  who  understands  manures 
at  all  will  know  that  to  apply  nitrogen  to  plants 
without  a  due  proportion  of  potash  and  phosphate 
is  to  encourage  a  rank,  leafy  growth  at  the 
expense  of  flowers  and  fruit.  Although  I  have 
no  means  of  obtaining  an  analysis  of  ordinary 
spent  Hops  other  than  that  given,  I  very  much 
doubt  whether  the  percentage  of  nitrogen  in  the 
majority  of  spent  Hops  is  as  high  as  that  stated. 
As  mentioned  in  my  previous  reply,  I  have  used 
ordinary  spent  Hops  and  also  Wakeley's  Hop 
Manure,  and  it  is  absurd  for  anyone  to  suggest 
that  the  former  can  take  the  place  of  the  latter. 
To  repeat  myself,  I  say  that  results  gained  in 
actual  experience  are  worth  all  the  analyses  put 
together. — K. 


T 


DAFFODIL      AND      TULIP 
NOTES. 

The  Rotal  Horticultural  Societt's  New 
Classification. 
HE  sub-committee  has  completed  the 
first  part  of  its  work,  and  the  scheme 
of  division  and  sub-division  is  to  be 
sent  round  to  each  member  of  the 
Daffodil  committee  with  a  view  to  its 
being  presented  for  adoption  at  the 
meeting  on  May  18.  H  it  is  carried  the  laborious 
task  of  placing  each  flower  in  its  proper  division 
will  then  be  taken  in  hand. 

Registration  op  Names. 
The  discussion  which  followed  a  motion  of  Miss 
Currey's  on  May  4  only  emphasised  the  difficul- 
ties that  present  themselves  with  regard  to  the 
registration  of  names.  On  the  motion  of  Mr. 
Wallace  the  whole  question  has  been  referred  to 
the  above-mentioned  sub-committee  for  its  con- 
sideration. As  the  season  is  practically  ended, 
there  will  be  any  amount  of  time  to  think  it  over 
and  consult  the  different  Daffodil  societies.  I 
fancy  some  members  of  the  committee  think  that 
this  registration  is  not  within  their  province ;  but 


THE    SNOWY     MESPILUS     (AMELANCHIER     CANA- 
DENSIS)  IN   A  WARWICK  GARDEN. 

if  the  above  body  wishes  to  retain  its  position,  it 
must  undertake  all  the  duties  which  a  national 
society  such  as  the  Rose  and  Sweet  Pea  does, 
otherwise  I  fear  it  will  be  passed  by. 

Modern  Daffodils. 

Slowly  but  surely  the  Daffodil  is  becoming  a 
florist's  flower.  At  present  it  is  true  that  there 
is  DO  acknowledged  standard  of  excellence,  nor 
any  general  consensus  of  opinion  which  acts  as  an 
unwritten  law  in  appraising  the  merits  of  indi- 
vidual flowers.  There  are,  however,  certain  ten- 
dencies observable,  one  of  which  is  to  go  for  size, 
as  if  ipso  facto,  given  two  flowers  practically 
identical  in  colour  and  shape,  the  larger  one  must 
be  the  best.  No  doubt  it  is  true  in  many  cases  ; 
but  before  it  is  too  late  I  would  venture  to  plead 
for  the  smaller  flowers.  Could  anything  be  more 
perfect  than  Eoster  ?  and  yet  I  wonder  if  it 
would  receive  an  award  if  put  before  the  com- 
mittee to-day.  It  will  be  a  thousand  pities  if  all 
ourincomparabilises  are  giant  incomparabilises  in 
ten  years'  time,  and  all  our  Leedsiis  giant  Leedsiis. 

I  am  led  to  make  these  remarks  because  a  very 


week  and  no  one  even  proposed  an  award.  The 
reason  obviously  was  that  it  was  not  large  enough ; 
not  that  it  was  so  like  something  else  in  commerce 
that  it  was  not  needed.  This  would  have  been 
intelligible  and  proper.  Is  size  to  be  everything? 
and  is  every  form  of  Daffodil  increased  in  beauty 
by  its  being  made  larger  ?  Take,  for  example, 
triandrus  hybrids.  Who  that  stood  before 
Messrs.  Barr's  interesting  collection  of  them  at 
the  last  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meeting 
would  venture  to  say  that  the  line  of  beauty 
followed  that  of  size  ? 

At  Vincent  Square  on  Mat  4 
I  noted  the  following  new  flowers  : 

Seville  (raised  by  Mr.  P.  D.  Williams  and 
exhibited  by  Mr.  Phillips). — This  has  a  large, 
distinctly  lobed,  flat,  pale  Poetious  red-cup,  with 
a  broad,  overlapping,  white  perianth,  which 
reflexes  with  age.  The  peculiar  formation  of 
the  cup  is  very  striking,  and,  as  far  as  I  know, 
is  not  to  be  found  in  any  other  flower. 

Lindsay  Oordon.  — This  is  a  very  large  Poet  of 
the  Almira  type  raised  by  Mr.  E.  M.  Crosfield. 
I  compared  it  with  several  others,  and  it  was 
as  beautiful  as  any  and  certainly  larger. 

Kingsley  (Wallace  and  Son). — Another  Poet  of 
the  Almira  style.  It  is  a  good-sized  flower  of 
great  substance.  Its  chief  beauty  and  character- 
istic is  its  cup,  which  has  a  particularly  well- 
defined  rim  of  red  running  round  the  deep 
orange  centre. 

Warley  Scarlet  is  a  fine  flower  of  the  Barrii 
type,  with  a  cream  perianth  and  a  large  ex- 
panded orange  cup,  broadly  margined  with  a 
pale  orange  red.  Miss  Currey  thinks  this  will 
be  a  valuable  flower  for  the  hybridist. 

Mrs.  Daniel  Spurrell,  which  was  placed  before 
the  Narcissus  committee  by  Miss  K.  Spurrell 
for  an  award,  struck  me  as  a  very  delightful 
little  flower  for  cutting.  It  is  a  medium-sized 
Leedsii,  with  a  good  flat  perianth  and  a  cup 
which  has  the  Mrs.  Langtry  edge.  It  has  a 
good  long  stem. 

Delicata  is  a  handsome  Leedsii  raised  and 
shown  by  Mr.  Engleheart,  but  now  no  longer 
his.  It  has  a  pale  yellow  pup  and  long,  almond- 
shaped  perianth  segments.  It  reminds  me  of  a 
steering-wheel  with  the  handles  enormously 
developed  and  the  circular  part  equally 
diminished, 

Peveril  is  a  small  flower  with  an  all-red  flat 
cup  and  a  white,  much-reflexed  perianth.  I 
fancy  it  would  make  a  very  nice  subject  for  a 
5-inch  pot.  It  was  introduced  into  commerce 
last  year  by  Mr.  Sydenham. 

Groups  of  Daffodils  were  shown  by  the  Rev. 
G.  H.  Engleheart,  Miss  Currey,  Messrs.  Barr 
and  Sons,  Messrs.  J.  H.  Veitch  and  Sons, 
Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath,  Mr.  H.  D.  Phillips,  Messrs. 
Bull  and  Son,  &o. 

Tulips  at  Vincent  Sgu.iRE  on  Mat  4. 

Two  nice  collections  of  early-flowering  Tulips 
were  shown  respectively  by  Messrs.  Hogg  and 
Robertson  and  Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath,  Limited.  The 
latter  had  a  new  edged  variety.  Enchantress.  It 
is  a  globular  flower  of  a  pleasing  rosy  crimson 
shade,  with  an  ochre  yellow  edge.  La  Remarqu- 
able  and  Eleanora  are  coloured  in  a  similar  way. 
Messrs.  Hogg  and  Robertson  had  Jenny,  a  small 
but  very  perfect  flower  of  a  beautiful  rose  shade, 
sweetly  scented  and  retaining  its  shape  to  the 
end.  Some  especially  good  Couleur  Cardinals 
were  among  the  collection.  Messrs.  Wallace  of 
Colchester  had  for  the  most  part  Darwins  in  a 
young  ungrowu  state.  The  exhibit  was  inter- 
esting as  illustrating  the  difference  in  the  colour 
of  Tulips  in  their  young  state  and  in  their  old. 
There  were  also  two  vases  of  Feu  Ardent,  which 
is  a  midseason  flower  of  a  deep  blood  crimson 
colour  with  a  yellow  base.  It  is  a  fairly  tall 
grower  and  retains  its  shape  very  well.  I  also 
noticed  some  excellent  Le  Reve  cut  from  the 
open.     This  is  a  Tulip  I  can  strongly  recommend 


beautiful  Leedsii  (Mrs.  Daniel  Spurrell)  was  sub- 1  either  for  March  flowering  in  pots  or  for  out  of 
mitted  to  the  Narcissus  committee  last  Tuesday  |  doors.  Joseph  Jacob. 


240 


THE    GARDEN. 


(May  15,  1909. 


IN    PRAISE    OF    LOWLY 
BEAUTY. 


o 


Convolvulus. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN, 


HOW   TO 


TREES    IN 


all  the  lovely  wild  things  on  this 
earth  there  is  one  more  lovely  than 
any.  It  cannot  be  said  of  it  that 
it  is  despised  and  its  beauty 
denied,  nor  yet  is  it  rare,  but 
utterly  disregarded  it  is,  neverthe- 
less. Generally  denounced  as  a  "weed,"  this 
lovely  twiner,  the  common  large  Convolvulus  of 
the  hedgerows,  has  possibilities  of  beauty  not 
expected  of  it  by  most  of  us. 

I  think  I  have  seen  it  in  its  perfection  in 
two  successive  summers  when  passing  a  dwelling, 
scarcely  more  than  a  large  oottage,  where  lived 
evidently  one  who  loved  the  beautiful  flower,  for 
he  had  chosen  it  as  the  sole  clothing  for  his 
poroh,  which  it  did  in  a  profusion  of  immense 
blossoms. 

It  needs  an  artist  mind  to  create  pictures  out 
of  common  material ;  but  there  is  no  occasion  to  go 
to  extensive  gardens  and  trained  gardeners  to  find 
evidences  of  it — many  a  masterpiece  of  taste  is 
the  work  of  an  untrained  hand.  Innate  artistic 
perception  is  found  in  every  class,  and  in  none 
more  than  in  the  working  classes,  whose  little 
gardens  are  often  of  such  beauty  as  is  rarely  seen 
in  those  of  greater  pretensions. 

Here  was  an  instance  when  real  selective  taste 
had  attained  a  most  unique  and  splendid  success. 
Instead  of  the  well-known  drapery  of  purple 
Clematis,  Roses  and  so  forth,  the  owner  had 
cboaen  to  plant  at  his  threshold,  in  generous 
quantity,  this  one  most  beautiful  weed. 

Whether  this  summer  wreathing  clothed  and 
hid  a  soberer  winter  greening,  I  am  not  able  to 
tell.  If,  however,  the  humble  artist  had  indeed 
staked  his  all  on  this  exquisite  picture  of 
summer,  it  would  be  at  the  expense  of  several 
months'  bareness  ;  but  for  the  time  it  must 
have  given  sheer  content  —  the  effect  was  so 
sublime. 

The  large  white,  luminous  cups  shone  with 
muoh  the  same  chaste  purity  of  a  group  of  tall 
Lilies  standing  out  against  a  deep  green  ground. 
The  perfect  beauty  of  form  in  the  wide-cupped 
ohalice,  so  pure,  so  innocent  and  holy — in  the 
garlands  of  twining  green,  whose  every  leaf  is  a 
model  in  shape,  setting  and  colour,  and  whether 
in  its  clinging  upward  olimb  or  downward 
drooping  sway,  absolute  perfection  of  artistic 
conception,  the  whole  was  a  poem  of  colour  and 
of  form. 

Clear  white  against  clear  green,  in  contrasts 
alone  it  is  noteworthy,  and  with  the  clean-cut 
moulding,  chaste  and  finished  as  soulpture,  the 
velvet  of  the  flower,  the  polish  of  the  leaf,  and 
the  beautiful  arrangement  and  poise  of  the 
entire  spray,  one  may  search  the  whole  realm  of 
Nature  and  not  find  anything  to  excel  the 
wonderful  modelling  and  design,  giving  such 
effect  of  careless,  unstudied  gr^ce. 

It  is  a  commonly  accepted  fact  that  this  per- 
fection of  blossom  limps  and  fades  at  once  when 
picked,  and  is  therefore  useless  to  us  as  a  decora- 
tion for  our  dwellings  ;  but  I  have  proved  this 
many  a  time  to  be  a  fallacy.  It  is  always  found 
twining  among  Bracken  or  some  such  helpful 
prop,  and  if  a  lovely  spray  festooned  over  a 
victim  is  wanted,  the  secret  is  to  pluck  them 
both  wholly,  and  either  place  them  thus  together 
in  the  vase,  or  snip  away  the  undesired  leafage  of 
the  sustaining  twig  or  frond,  and  under  these 
conditions,  if  placed  in  water  early,  I  have  known 
it  remain  quite  good  for  ten  days  or  more. 

It  is  a  plant  that  must  be  restricted  in  its 
quarters,  as  it  would  be  unwise  to  introduce  it 
where  it  might  become  a  nuisance  ;  but  in  the 
informal  parts  of  a  garden,  on  its  hedges  and 
palings,  entrances,  outbuildings,  &c.,  it  can  be 
nothing  but  a  pleasure  and  success.  In  London 
it  is  admirable  for  draping  and  covering  ugly 
iron  railings.  iE.  Curowen. 


?S.) 


well, 
fruits) 


GROW    FRUIT 
POTS. 
f Continued    from    page 
Pruning. 
HE  pruning  of  pot  fruit  trees,  especially 
of  Nectarines,   Peaches    and  Plums, 
to  which  I  now  particularly  refer,  is 
quite  reversed  to  what  it    is    with 
trained   trees ;    at  least,  that  is   our 
practice,   and  we   find  it  to  succeed 
We   prune  our  trees  (of  these  kinds  of 
during  the    growing    season  in   a   great 
measure,  leaving  but  little  to  do  in  the  way  of 
shortening    the     shoots    afterwards.      Pruning 
begins,  in  fact,  as  soon  as  the  fruits  are  set.     We 
then   shorten   all  unfruitful  shoots  to    suit   the 
case  in  view,  and  later  on  other  shoots  when  we 
are  sure  of  a  suflBcient  set  at  the  base.     Again, 
later  still,  pruning  is  practised,  the  final  being 
attended    to,    if    needful,    after    the    fruit     is 
gathered.     The  aim  should  be  to  secure  a  well- 
balanced  head  if  it  be  a  standard,  or  an  equal 
distribution  of  growth  in  the  case  of  a  pyramid. 
In  pruning,  care  is  exercised  not  to  leave  any 
wood  that  will  ultimately  die  back.     Each  cut 
is  made  close  to  a  growing  shoot,  so  that  the 
wound  heals  over,  which  it    will  frequently  do 
the  same  season,  just  as  in  the  case  of  pruning 
dwarf  Roses  while  in  the  dormant  bud.     Dis- 
budding (which  is  a  form  of  pruning)  is  a  regular 
practice  in  the  case  of  trained  trees.     Not  so, 
however,  with  those  in  pots.     We  never  disbud 
these  in    the    spring,   but  rather    aim   at    the 
retaining  of  all  the  short,  spurry  wood  we  can, 
as  this  is  the  most  reliable  fruit-bearing  wood 
for  another  season.     If  any  disbudding  is  done 
at  all,  it  is  in  the  case  of  the  lateral  shoots  of  the 
current  year,  but  even  then  one  has  to  be  careful 
not  to  foster  too  strong  a  growth.     We  pinch 
any  shoots  that  appear  to  be  gaining  in  strength 
too   rapidly,    this    being   far  better  than   any 
severe  pruning  at  the  resting  season  of  the  year. 
(If    this    line    of    treatment    throughout    were 
followed  somewhat  with  trained  trees,  I  fancy 
we  should  hear  less  of  canker. ) 
Fbbtilisino. 
When  the  trees  have  a  fairly  good  proportion 
of  flowers  open,   our  practice    is  to  bring  in  a 
hive    of    bees,   and    since  this   plan   has    been 
adopted  we   have   never  had    a  failure  or  the 
semblance  of  one.     I  strongly  advise  this  method 
of  fertilising  the  flowers,  and  the  more  so  in  any 
case  when  situated  as  we  are  within  the  baneful 
influence  of  fog  and  smoke,  with  the  attendant 
cloudy  condition    pertaining    thereto.       Before 
resorting   to  this  old-fashioned  plan  our  Cherry 
crop  was  often  an  uncertain  quantity  when  the 
weather  was  dull  in  February  ;  now  we  have  to 
thin  almost  every  tree  in  a  free  manner.      Of 
course,  the  atmospheric  conditions   maintained 
at  such  times  are  such  as  to  facilitate  fertilisa- 
tion also,  but  we  do  not  dispense  with  damping 
down  entirely.     The  ventilation  is  attended  to 
on  all  favourable  occasions,  in   order  to  render 
the  pollen  masses  more  easy  of  distribution. 
Thinning  the  Crop. 
This  we  do  cautiously,  more  so  perhaps  than 
many  growers  who  are  further  removed  from  the 
effects  of  fogs  would  do.      As  in  other  things, 
however,   I  am  no  believer  in  what  is  termed 
"  rule  of  thumb"  practice,  but  prefer  to  act  as 
one  finds  it  best,  in  order  to  ensure  a  crop.     If  a 
large  set  has  been  secured,  we  commence  to  thin 
a  few  of  the  worst-placed  fruits  fairly  early,  but 
even  then  we  have  to  exercise  caution.      A  few 
at  a  time  is    the    better    mode    of    procedure. 
When  the  fruits  are    the   size   of   Filberts  we 
think  it  safe  to  thin  more  freely,  but  even  then 
I  like  to  have  at  least  three  fruits  left  to  every 
one  that  will  be  allowed  to  ripen.      Again,  after 
that,  gradual  thinning  is  the  rule,  until  there  are 
a  good  few  left  to  be  removed  when  the  stoning 
i.e.,  the  hardening  of  the  stone,  is  in  process. 


Gathering. 
This  is,  in  most  instances,  done  with  Grapa 
scissors  instead  of  pulling  the  fruit,  the  reason 
being,  in  the  case  of  some  varieties,  that  the 
fruit  hangs  too  tightly  to  the  very  last,  while 
there  is  a  tendency  in  some  varieties.  Nectarine 
Early  Rivers  in  particular,  for  the  fruits  to  swell 
up  tightly  to  the  wood,  so  as  to  partially  envelop 
the  stalk.  If  these  fruits  so  circumstanced  are 
twisted  off  there  is  sure  to  be  a  wound  or  bruise 
upon  the  fruit.  By  (tutting  the  stem  asunder 
instead  this  is  entirely  obviated  ;  each  fruit  with 
a  little  practice  can  be  taken  off  as  neatly  as 
possible.  Nectarine  Cardinal  is  another  instance 
of  swelling  up  quite  tightly  to  the  stem. 

jAMf:s  Hudson,  V.M.H. 
(To  be  continued.  J 


FRUIT    NOTES. 
Liquid  Manure   for  Weak  Trees. — Although 
the  majority  of  amateurs  are  somewhat  apt  to 
over  rather  than  under  feed  their  plants  in  the 
greenhouse,  room  and  flower  garden,  there  is  no 
doubt  that  when  it  comes  to  the  fruit  trees  the 
error  is  usually  in  the  other  direction.     In  one 
sense   this   may   be   an  advantage,    for  the  too- 
luxuriant  tree  will  never  yield  satisfactory  crops 
of  fruit  ;    indeed,  the   probabilities  are  that  it 
will  not  bear  at  all.     At  the  same  time,  a  certain 
amount   of    feeding   is   necessary  to   obtain   the 
most  gratifying   results,    as    the   fruits  improve 
immensely  in  appearance  and  quality  under  the 
beneficent   influence   of   good   food.      The   great 
time  for  feeding  is,  of  course,  during  the  winter 
when  the  roots  are  at  rest,  but  much  good  may 
be  done  now.     The  roots  are  active,   the  leaves 
are  abundant  and  demand  nourishment ;   and  in 
the  case  of  trees  that  do  not  make  as  much  new 
growth  each  season  as  one  would  desire,  feeding 
should  be  put  in  hand  forthwith  and  followed  up 
consistently,     but     always    with    considerable 
discretion.      The   first   thing    to   do   when  it  is 
decided  to  use  liquid  manure  is  to  make  the  soil 
about  the  roots  and  to  1  foot  or  2  feet  beyond 
the  extreme  spread  of  the  branches  pleasantly 
moist  ;    this  done,   the  liquid   manure  may  be 
applied.      In   no    circumstances  whatever  is  it 
permissible  to  apply  liquid  manure  to  dry  soil, 
for  it  is  a  waste  of  valuable  material  and  there 
is  an  ever-present  possibility  of  doing  distinct 
injury  to  the  tender    fibres.      If    about    three 
gallons  of  water  are  given  in  one  day,  they  may 
be  followed  on  the  next  evening  with  a  similar 
quantity  of  food,  and  it  is  certain  that  good  will 
result.     Just  what  form  the  manure  will  take 
must  necessarily  depend  upon  individual  con- 
veniences, and  it  is  not  of  much  moment  what  is 
employed  provided  that  it  does  not  contain  an 
excess  of  nitrogen.     It  is  imperative  that  this 
essential  food  shall  be  present  ;  but  at  the  same 
time  it  must  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  it  is 
a  wood-maker  and  that,  if  used  in  the  slightest 
excess,  it  will  do  more  harm  than  good  by  encour- 
aging   grossness    and    coarseness,    followed    by 
unfruitfulness.     The  preference  should,  I  think, 
always    be   given    to   natural    manures   for   the 
present  purpose,   as  if    these    have    been    well 
stored   there   is   a    satisfactory   balance   of    the 
imperative  food  elements  at  the  disposal  of  the 
crop. 

Strawberries. — From  now  onwards  until  the 
crop  of  fruit  is  harvested  these  plants  will 
constantly  be  demanding  attention  in  some 
direction  or  another.  No  doubt  the  remnants  of 
the  autumn  mulching  will  long  ago  have  been 
raked  off  or  pricked  in  according  to  convenience  ; 
but  should  this  not  have  been  accomplished,  the 
work  ought  to  be  done  immediately.  After- 
wards the  entire  plantation  should  be  cleansed 
so  that  not  a  single  weed  remains.  In  the  alleys 
the  desired  result  may  be  ensured  by  hoeing, 
but  close  up  to  the  plants  there  is  an  element  of 
danger  in  using  a  tool  of  any  kind,  and  it  is 
wiser  to  rely  upon  hand-picking.  A  dressing 
that  will  be  found  especially  beneficial  now  is 
soot,  sufficient  being  applied  to  make  the  surface 


May  15,  1909.J 


THE     l^ARDEN. 


241 


black.  A  word  of  warning  may  be  advantageous 
in  this  matter.  New  soot  is  commonly  used,  and 
as  often  as  not  results  in  harm  instead  of  good 
being  done  to  the  plants  ;  if  old  soot  is  at  com- 
mand and  is  dressed  thoroughly  between  the 
plants,  beneficial  results  are  certain  to  accrue. 
Provision  has  always  to  be  made  in  the  culture 
of  Strawberries  for  keeping  the  fruit  when  it  is 
swelling  away  from  the  soil,  and  one  of  the  best 
methods  is  to  lay  down  the  longest  procurable 
litter  early  enough  in  the  spring  for  the  rains  to 
wash  it  perfectly  clean  ;  but  it  is  now  rather  late 
for  this,  and  it  will  be  preferable  to  wait  a  little 
longer  and  then  put  down  new  straw.  One 
loses  in  some  degree  by  the  latter  system,  as  the 
manurial  value  in  the  litter  is  not  present,  but 
there  is  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  the  bed 
for  the  fruits  will  be  as  good  as  it  is  possible  to 
provide  ;  the  little  loss  of  food  can  easily  be 
compensated  for  by  the  judicious  application  of 
concentrated  fertilisers.  Fruit-grower. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


DAPHNE   BLAGAYANA. 

A  MONG  shrubs  which   from  their   dwarf 
/\  stature   combined   with    their  other 

/  %  good  qualities  make  them  singularly 
/  ^  appropriate  for  grouping  among  rock 
/  \_  plants,  the  Daphne  family  must 
always  be  regarded  as  among  the 
best.  The  subject  of  this  note,  though  by  no 
means  a  new  plant,  is  as  yet  unrepresented  in 
many  gardens  where  selections  of  hardy  plants  are 
specialised.  Less  rare  than  Daphne  rupestris, 
it  shares  with  that  species  and  Daphne  Cneorum 
the  distinction  of  having  equal  beauty  and 
fragrance,  while  through  the  ordinary  channels 
of  commerce  it  is  comparatively  easy  to  procure. 
The  flowers  are  produced  in  April  in  the  terminal 
points  of  the  branches,  cream-coloured  (ivory- 
white)  and  deliciously  fragrant,  and  borne  in 
dense,  crowded  heads,  thereby  adding  greatly  to 
their  effect  when  viewed  upon  a  well-flowered 
specimen.  Daphne  blagayana  is  not  difficult  to 
grow  provided  the  soil  is  cool  and  well  drained. 
I  have  always  found  it  succeed  best  in 
positions  fairly  well  shaded,  and  in  soil  formed 
of  equal  quantities  of  peat  and  loam.  A  frequent 
mistake  is  to  graft  this  plant  upon  stocks  of  the 
common  Daphne  Mezereum,  which  is  quite 
unnecessary,  as  it  grows  freely  upon  its  own 
roots  ;  in  fact,  where  a  plant  arrives  so  grafted, 
I  suggest  that  it  be  at  once  layered,  as  practised 
with  Carnations,  and  so  induce  each  shoot  to 
take  up  a  separate  existence.  No  difficulty 
presents  itself  to  any  amateur  in  performing 
this  operation,  and  if  the  shoots  formed  every 
year  are  so  treated  each  autumn,  in  a  compara- 
tively short  time  the  owner  will  rejoice  in  a 
mass  of  this  plant  of  which  he  will  be  justly 
proud.  Pieces  of  stone  are  placed  upon  the 
branches  after  layering,  first  covering  the  stems 
with  some  soil  ;  the  stone  assists  in  keeping  the 
soil  cool,  and  at  the  same  time  imparts  a 
picturesque  setting  to  the  group.  Daphne 
blagayana  is  an  evergreen  species  from  the 
mountains  of  Carniola. 

Walmsgate  Oardens.  Thomas  Smith. 


THE  GOLDEN  BELL. 
FossTTHiA  susPBNSA,  popularly  known  as  the 
Golden  Bell,  is  a  charming  shrub  with  its  long 
graceful  shoots  and  picturesque  appearance.  It 
is  especially  lovely  in  March,  when  it  is  covered 
with  little  golden  bells,  which  come  out  before  the 
leaves.  It  should  be  planted  in  a  fairly  sheltered 
spot  away  from  rough  winds,  and  will  grow  to  a 
height  of  10  feet  in  any  soil  that  is  neither  too  stiflF 
nor  too  light.  The  flowers  appear  on  the  new 
wood ;  it  is  therefore  advisable  to  prune  away  some 
of  the  old  wood  when  the  shrub  has  finished 
flowering.  Dorothy  Paob-Roeerts. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


SUGAR    PEAS    FOR    SUMMER    USE. 

THE  Edible-podded  or  Sugar  Peas  are 
not  nearly  as  much  grown  as  they 
deserve,  and  I  feel  sure  amateurs 
would  find  them  a  welcome  addition 
to  the  summer  vegetables  if  the  seed 
was  sown  so  that  the  best  results 
were  secured.  There  are  not  many  varieties, 
and  I  will  note  the  best,  though  some  of  the 
Sugar  Peas  grown  on  the  Continent  are  well 
worth  culture  in  this  country,  and  there  are 
some  excellent  sorts  grown  for  the  Paris  market. 
I  should  state  that  these  Peas  differ  from  the 
ordinary  type,  as  the  pods  are  cooked  whole  in 
a  young  state  and  they  are  remarkably  sweet, 
but  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  get  old.  By 
many  persons  they  are  much  liked  as  a  drejsed 
vegetable,  and  they  are  delicious  when  served  hot 
with  butter,  but  they  may  be  cooked  in  various 
ways  and  are  always  liked  for  their  sweet,  delicate 
flavour. 

My  note  more  concerns  the  summer  ;  indeed, 
I  do  not  recommend  them  for  other  seasons, 
though  I   have  had  good    pods    well   into  the 


will  give  a  succession  of  fine  pods  well  into 
September.  The  French  Sugar  Peas,  of  which 
there  are  several  forms,  as  I  have  had  both  tall 
and  dwarf  sent  me,  are  well  known  on  the 
Continent.  I  need  not  describe  varieties  any 
further.  For  an  early  supply  seed  should  be 
sown  in  good  land  on  a  sunny  border.  For  later 
use  I  prefer  deep  drills  or  trenches  in  a  very 
light  soil,  and  some  decayed  manure  in  the 
bottom  of  the  trench,  giving  the  plants  plenty  of 
room  and  taking  care  not  to  sow  too  thickly.  Seed 
sown  in  April,  May  and  June  will  give  a  full 
summer  supply,  the  crops  following  each  other 
in  the  order  sown.  G.  Wythks. 


OUTDOOR  TOMATOES. 
For  people  with  no  convenience  for  raising 
plants  under  glass.  Tomato -growing  outdoors 
presents  some  difiieulties.  I  am  convinced  that 
the  weather  plays  a  prominent  part  towards 
success  or  otherwise  ;  but  there  are  one  or  two 
essential  details  which  the  inexperienced  person 
is  apt  to  overlook  and  which  very  often  are  the 
causes  of  failure.  In  the  first  place,  it  is  impor- 
tant to  have  strong,  well-established  plants  at 
planting-out  time.  Instead  of  planting  them 
out  of  small  pots  which  they  have  been  starving 


DAPHNE   BLAGAYANA   IN   A   LINCOLNSHIRE   GARDEN. 


autumn ;  but  to  get  the  best  results  the  pods 
should  be  grown  quickly.  In  America  the 
Sugar  Peas  find  much  favour,  and  some  of  the 
varieties  grown  in  the  States  have  very  large 
pods,  so  large  that  when  cooked  whole  they 
make  a  most  handsome  dish.  The  Mammoth 
Gray  Seeded  Sugar  is  one  of  the  largest ;  this 
is  a  tall  grower  in  good  land,  often  exceed- 
ing 5  feet  in  height.  It  is  a  splendid  bearer  and 
a  great  favourite  in  the  market.  Another  very 
fine  variety  is  Henderson's  Melting  Sugar  (5  feet), 
producing  large  pods,  which  are  very  tender  if 
cooked  when  about  three-parts  grown.  This 
and  the  Mammoth  noted  above  are  the  largest  of 
ihe  Edible-podded  section  ;  an  older  form  is  the 
small  Gray  Sugar,  somewhat  like  the  last 
named  and  an  excellent  table  variety.  A  very  dis- 
tinct American  sort  is  Early  Sugar,  a  4-feet  high 
variety  of  fine  quality  ;  this  is  the  earliest  of  all 
those  noted  above,  and  I  would  advise  a  trial 
for  first  supplies,  as  it  is  of  such  good  cropping 
quality. 

Of  better-known  varieties  in  this  country. 
Carter's  Giant  Edible-podded  is  a  very  beautiful 
Pea,  and  one  that  is  equal  in  quality  and  crop  to 
the  Continental  varieties.  It  is  a  delicious 
vegetable  and  grows  about  5  feet  in  height.  If 
sown  three  or  four  times  during  the  season  this 


in  for  two  or  three  weeks,  they  should  be  potted 
up  into  larger  pots  and  kept  in  a  sheltered 
position  where  they  can  be  conveniently  covered 
at  night  in  case  of  frost.  Have  the  site  pre- 
pared ready  for  receiving  the  plants  when  the 
weather  is  suitable  for  planting  them  out — that  is, 
when  it  is  warm  and  genial  ;  it  is  better  to  wait 
a  few  days  than  to  put  them  out  during  a  cold 
spell. 

Choose  the  warmest  site  in  the  gardan  for 
growing  them  in.  If  a  wall  or  fence  with  i. 
south  or  west  aspect  is  not  available,  then  a 
position  in  the  open  where  they  can  be 
exposed  to  the  sun  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
day  is  the  next  best.  Should  the  soil  be  cold 
and  heavy,  it  must  be  well  broken  up  and 
liberally  mixed  with  burnt  garden  refuse, 
wood-ashes  or  something  of  a  like  nature  :  but 
light  soil  must  be  enriched  with  well-decayed 
manure. 

The  plants  must  be  attended  to  in  the  matter 
of  watering  till  they  are  established  in  the  new 
soil.  Securely  tie  them  to  strong  stakes  and 
remove  all  side  shoots  as  they  appear.  When 
two  or  three  trusses  have  set,  the  plants  will 
receive  great  benefit  by  top-dressing  them  with 
some  decayed  or  horse  manure. 

Frogmore.  E.  Harriss. 


242 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  15,  1909. 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 

SOME  OF  THE  BEST  WHITE  KOSES. 

IF  there  is  one  thing  that  the  amateur  or 
beginner  in  Rose  •  growing  finds  more 
difficult  than  another,  it  is  in  the  selection 
of  the  best  varieties  to  grow.  The  multi  ■ 
plieity  of  names  is 
appalling.  It  is 
with  a  view  to  helping 
such  readers  that  notes 
will  be  penned  from  time 
to  time  on  the  principal 
colours.  Taking  white 
Roses  for  our  subject  on 
this  occasion,  the  ques- 
tion arises.  Which  is  the 
Best  White  Tea  Rose  .' 
It  is  Niphetos,  with  its 
beautiful  large  flowers  of 
great  delicacy.  It  is 
certainly  the  best  white 
Tea  Rose,  but  it  is  not 
everyone  who  can  grow 
it.  There  is  a  variety 
named  Elise  Fugier, 
which  ia  far  better  for 
outdoorculture,  although 
Niphetos  will  still  hold 
its  own  as  a  forcing 
variety. 

Souvenir^'  de  S.  A. 
Prince  is  a  fine  sport  of 
the  old  Souvenir  dun 
Ami,  perhaps  for  the 
amateur  the  best  white 
Tea    Rose,  although    it 

"  hangs  its  head."  On  a 
standard  it  is  very  beau- 
tiful.    For  the  exhibitor 

he    will    want    nothing 

better  than 

White  Maman  Cochet, 

unless   the  new   W.   R. 

Smith    will    surpass   it, 

which,  I  think,  is  doubt- 
ful.     The  best  white 

Hybrid  Tea  at  present  is 
Kaiserin     Auyusta 

Victoria.     This   variety, 

however,    cannot    be 

grown    by   everyone. 

What,  then,  is  the  best 

variety   of  this   popular 

group  V    Some  might  say 

L'Innocenoe,  but  I  can- 
not endorse  this.     It  is 

very  pure  in  colour  and 

grows  well,  as  it  should, 

seeing  it  is  of  the  Caroline 

Testout    tribe,    but    its 

petals  are  too  delicate  to 

withstand   rain.      There 

is  a  Rose  not  yet  much 

known    which  I  believe 

will  prove  to  be  the  best 

white  Hybrid  Tea.    This 

is  Lady  Calmouth  ;  it  is 

a  splendid  sort.     When 
The    White    Killamey 

becomes    established    it 

may  prove  to  be  our  beat 

white  Hybrid  Tea ;  but 

mildew   sadly  mars    the 

old  variety,  and  doubt- 
less the  white  sport  in- 
herits this  bad  trait  in  an 

otherwise  glorious  Rose. 

Albatross     was    finely 

meeting    of    the   Royal 


best  white  Hybrid  Perpetual,  for  everyone  will 
say 

Frau  Karl  Dnisdiki.  What  a  glorious  flower 
and  how  marvellously  pure  are  its  snow-white 
petals  ! 

Let  raisers  try  and  give  us  a  fragrant  Frau 
Karl  Drusohki  and  we  shall  be  grateful.  Mer- 
veille  de  Lyon  is  a  glorious  Rose,  especially  in 


THE  NEW   PRIMULA  FOBBESTII.     (Natural  size.     See  page  SL7.) 


shown  at  a  recent 
Horticultural  Society. 
There  ia  a  faint  blush  tint  on  its  otherwise  pure 
white  petals.  For  e.^hibitors  it  will  be  a  great 
acquisition,  but  it  has  not  the  vigour  we  require 
for  a  garden  variety,  although  it  is  a  great 
improvement  on  White  Lady  and  Tennyson. 
There  will  be  no  hesitation  as  to  which  is  the 


autumn,  when  its  huge,  cupped-shaped  blooms 
are  faintly  tinged  with  delicate  pink.  Of  the 
group  known  as  Noisette  Perpetuals,  which 
many  group  with  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
best  is  perhaps 

Boide   de   Neige.      The    exquisite  form   of 
perfect  flower  is  a  never-failing  pleasure  to  see. 
Baronne  de  Maynard  has  less    defects  in        ' 


the 


mal- 


formed buds,  but  it  does  not  possess  the  beautiful 
shape  of  Boule  de  Neige.  What,  to  my  mind,  is 
better  than  both  of  these  ia 

Mme.  Fanny  de  Forest.  I  would  recommend 
thia  Rose  for  trial.  The  best  white  dwarf 
Polvantha  Rose  is 

Katherina  Zeimet  :  it  is  a  grand  towering 
cluster  of  snowy  white  flowers  that  are  most 
decorative.  Among  the 
China  or  Monthly  Rosea, 
Z)ucAeri8  the  beat  white. 
That  sturdy  group  Rosa 
rugosa  can  produce  no 
purer  white  variety  than 
Blanc  Double  de 
Courbet,  although  Sou- 
venir de  Philemon 
Cochet  was  said  to  sur- 
pass it.  How  exijuiaite 
are  its  dazzling  white, 
expansive  flowers  in  the 
early  .June  days  and 
throughout  the  summer 
and  autumn  !  The  single 
white  is  very  charming, 
but  Blanc  Double  de 
Courbet  must,  I  think, 
hold  the  palm.  If  the 
white  sport  of  Conrad 
F.  Meyer,  named  Nova 
Zembla,  should  prove  to 
be  pure  white,  it  must 
take  a  high  place  among 
garden  Roses,  but  I  have 
not  seen  it  outdoors. 

Of  what  are  known  aa 
summer  Roses,  no  one 
can  omit  planting  Mme. 
Plantier,  M  me.  Hardy  or 
the  white  Moss,  Blanche 
Moreau,  and  every  gar- 
den should  possess  a 
bush  of  the  charming 
little  double  white Scoteh 
Rose.  Of  white  climbing 
Roses,  can  anything  com- 
pare with 

Mme.  Aljred  Oarrieref 
Certainly  one  cannot  say 
it  ia  pure  white,  but  the 
effect  of  a  raaaa  of  this 
Rose  is  white.  I  can 
endorse  all  that  has  been 
recently  said  in  praise 
of  this  lovely  sort.  I 
have  lately  pruned  some 
huge  bushes  of  it  in  a 
lovely  Devonshire  gar- 
den, and  I  am  told  arm- 
fuls  of  its  blossom-laden 
branches  were  cut  last 
Christmas  Day. 

Aimee  Vibert  still 
holds  its  own  as  a  white 
climber,  and  undoubtedly 
it  is  one  of  the  best. 

As  to  Rambler  Roses, 
the  bestmustassuredlybe 
White  Dorothy  Perkins. 
Of  the  true  multiflora 
group  I  think  I  should 
give  the  highest  place  to 
Oriiss  an  Zahem.  It 
is  very  beautiful  and 
blooms  about  the  third 
week  in  June. 

Waltham  Bride  is  deli- 
ciously  fragrant,  and  will 
give  its  wreaths  of  bloom 
when  the  Penzance  Briars  are  in  flower.  For 
mingling  with  these  it  will  be  a  great  help.  Of 
the  older  Rambler  Roses  we  cannot  overlook  the 
merits  of  F61icit6  Perp(!;tue,  Bennett's  Seedling 
or  Mme.  d'Arblay. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  a  very  charming 
garden  could  be  fashioned  from  white  Roses 
alone.  P- 


May  15,  1909.1 


THE    GAEDEN. 


243 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

CANTERBUKY  BELLS  AND  THEIR 
CULTURE. 

DURING  the  early  summer  months 
.  there  is  not  a  brighter  oooupant  of 
I  the  border  than  a  well-grown  Can- 
f  terbury  Bell  (Campanula  Medium), 
and  as  a  stock  of  good,  healthy 
plants  is  easily  raised  from  seeds, 
they  deserve  to  find  a  much  more  prominent 
plaoe  in  all  gardens  where  a  bright  floral  display 
is  appreciated.  Although  not  strictly  biennials, 
these  plants  are  usually  grown  as  such  (i.  e. ,  the 
seedlings  are  raised  one  year,  flowered  the  next, 
and  then  thrown  away,  or  die).  Sometimes  plants 
will  survive  for  another  year  and  flower  very  well, 
but  as  young  ones  are  so  easily  obtained  the 
system  is  scarcely  worth  the  trouble. 

A  good  time  for  sowing  is  early  in  June,  as  by 
so  doing  strong  plants  are  secured  which  will 
stand  the  winter  with  impunity.  Seeds  of 
separate  colours  can  be  obtained,  or  a  packet  of 
mixed  will  give  good  returns  in  the  way  of 
flowers  ;  generally,  however,  there  is  a  pre- 
ponderance of  dark  blues  in  the  mixture.  A 
moderately  good,  but  not  over-rich,  plot  should  be 
chosen  for  the  seed-bed,  and  after  being  well 
dug  and  made  rather  firm,  and  the  surface  finely 
raked  down,  drills  1  inch  deep  and  1  foot  apart 
should  be  made.  At  this  time  of  the  year  the 
soil  will  in  all  probability  be  very  dry,  and  it  is, 
therefore,  essential  to  successful  germination  that 
the  drills  be  well  watered  before  the  seeds  are 
sown.  After  this  watering  scatter  the  seeds 
thinly  along  the  rows  and  cover  with  fine  soil. 
Should  the  weather  remain  dry,  other  waterings 
must  be  given  as  often  as  required  until  the 
seedlings  appear. 

The  work  now  will  consist  of  frequent  hoeings 
and  weedings,  and  when  the  plants  are  about 
2  inches  high,  advantage  should  be  taken  of  a 
wet  day  to  get  them  transplanted.  Many  growers 
make  the  mistake  of  allowing  them  to  remain  in 
the  seed-bed  until  required  for  placing  in  their 
permanent  positions  in  autumn  or  early  spring, 
with  the  result  that  they  become  drawn  and 
weak  and  frequently  succumb  to  the  severe 
winter  weather  ;  even  if  they  survive  they  are 
as  rubbish  compared  with  the  transplanted  speci- 
mens. The  seedlings  should  be  put  out  in  rows 
15  inches  apart  and  9  inches  between  the  plants, 
watering  them  after  the  mowing  until  they  have 
become  established,  after  which  they  will  require 
no  further  attention,  except  an  occasional  hoeing, 
until  planting-out  time. 

As  mentioned  above,  Canterbury  Bells  may  be 
put  into  their  flowering  quarters  either  in  autumn 
or  early  spring,  the  former  period  for  preference. 
For  filling  beds,  1  foot  apart  each  way  will  be  a 
good  distance,  and  for  the  front  of  a  border 
or  similar  position,  a  clump  of  three,  placed  in 
the  form  of  a  triangle,  usually  proves  the  most 
effective,  especially  if  the  units  of  the  clump  are 
all  of  the  same  colour. 

When  the  flowers  appear,  stakes  will  be  neces- 
sary, as  the  blossoms  are  naturally  heavy  for  the 
stems.  After  the  flowers  have  faded  they  should 
be  promptly  cut  off,  but  without  any  stem  ;  then 
incipient  flower-buds  at  the  bases  of  these  old 
ones  will  quickly  develop  and  thus  prolong  the 
floral  display  over  a  long  period,  especially  if  the 
plants  are  given  a  watering  with  weak  liquid 
manure  about  every  ten  days. 

In  addition  to  their  value  for  garden  decora- 
tion, the  use  of  Canterbury  Bells  for  embellishing 
the  cool  greenhouse  in  spring  should  not  be 
overlooked.  Those  who  possess  unheated 
frames  or  greenhouses  will  find  in  these  plants 
just  what  they  require.  At  planting-time  in  the 
autumn  a  few  ot  the  best  specimens  should  be 
selected  and  placed  in  properly  drained  pots  of 
sufficient  size  to  well  take  the  mass  of  roots, 
ordinary  potting  soil  answering  very  well.  These 
can  then  go  into  the  cold  frame  until  February, 
plunging  the  pots    to  their  rims  in  ashes,  after 


which  they  may  be  placed  in  the  greenhouse, 
where  they  will  gradually  come  along  and  open 
their  flowers  several  weeks  ahead  of  those  grown 
outdoors.  The  pink  and  white  varieties  are  best 
for  indoor  culture,  the  dark  blue  sorts  being 
rather  oppressive.  In  addition  to  the  type, 
there  is  the  cup  and  saucer  variety,  known 
botanically  as  calycanthema,  and  also  double- 
flowered  sorts,  which  find  favour  with  some. 
All  are  obtainable  in  several  colours. 


THE  HARDY  PRIMULAS. 
Few  genera  contain  more  well-known  and 
popular  garden  plants  than  the  genus  Primula, 
which  embraces  such  familar  flowers  as  the 
Cowslip,  the  Primrose,  the  Polyanthus  and  the 
Auricula.  It  is  a  somewhat  extensive  family, 
embracing,  according  to  a  recent  monograph  of 
the  genus  by  Messrs.  Pax  and  Knuth,  208  species, 
most  of  which  occur  in  the  temperate  regions  of 
the  Old  World.  More  than  half  of  this  number 
(129)  are  found  in  the  Himalayas  and  on  the 


they  are  reduced  to  a  certain  amount  of  order, 
which  lessens  the  confusion  to  a  considerable 
extent.  Pax  has  classified  the  Primulas  botani- 
cally, dividing  them  into  twenty  one  sections, 
according  to  their  affinity.  For  garden  purposes, 
however,  they  may  be  generally  divided  into 
two,  or  at  most  three,  great  groups.  There  is 
the  group  of  rock -loving  species  represented  by 
P.  Auricula,  which  are  found  on  the  European 
Alps  and  which  require  to  be  grown  in  rooky 
crevices  in  the  rock  garden.  Many  of  these, 
however,  will  also  flourish  in  the  open  border  in 
many  places.  Next  comes  the  group  of  moisture- 
loving  species  or  bog  plants,  represented  by  P. 
rosea,  P.  farinosa  and  P.  japonica  among  others. 
Some  of  the  stateliest  Primulas  are  included  in 
this  group,  which  is  of  great  horticultural 
value.  Last,  but  not  least  from  a  decorative 
point  of  view,  there  is  a  section  that  is  suitable 
for  growing  in  the  ordinary  border  or  in  beds. 
Ot  this  the  best  known  are  the  Cowslip,  Oxlip  and 
Primrose,  from  which  is  derived  the  popular 
Polyanthus,  found  in  nearly  every  garden. 


THE  GOLDEN  BELL   (FOKSYTHIA  SUSPEKSA).       (See  page  3il.) 


Chinese  mountain  ranges,  so  that  this  region  is 
evidently  the  headquarters  of  the  Primula 
family.  In  Europe  some  thirty-one  species  are 
found,  while  the  rest  are  spread  over  Western, 
Central  and  Northern  Asia,  excepting  ten  found 
in  Japan  and  seven  in  North  America.  With 
very  few  exceptions  all  these  various  species  are 
hardy  in  this  country,  and,  although  the  con- 
ditions under  which  they  are  found  in  their 
native  habitats  must  be  of  a  widely  divergent 
nature,  it  is  possible  to  grow  successfully,  under 
practioally  the  same  conditions,  plants  whose 
homes  are  in  China,  Japan,  the  Himalayas, 
Siberia,  Switzerland  and  California.  It  naturally 
follows  that,  with  so  extensive  a  genus  with 
regard  to  the  number  of  its  constituents  and 
the  wide  area  over  which  they  are  spread,  there 
should  be  considerable  confusion  as  to  names. 
The  number  of  synonyms  are  very  numerous, 
and  as  the  Primulas,  especially  those  found  on 
the  European  Alps,  have  such  a  tendency  to 
hybridise,  we  have  almost  an  endless  list  of 
names  of  species,  varieties,  sub-varieties  and 
hybrids.  In  the  monograph  referred  to,  however. 


Owing  to  the  diversity  of  habit  and  various 
requirements  of  the  many  members  of  this  genus, 
it  is  not  possible  to  deal  with  their  cultural 
requirements  as  a  whole.  This  will  be  dealt 
with  under  each  species  as  it  comes  in  alphabetical 
order,  which  is  most  convenient  for  reference. 
Although  practically  perennials,  many  of  the 
Primulas  are  short-lived  in  this  country  and  die 
off  after  flowering.  It  is  thus  necessary  to  make 
annual  sowings  of  these  in  order  to  keep  up  a 
stock.  The  best  time  for  sowing  Primula  seeds 
is  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe,  as  if  kept  during  the 
winter  and  allowed  to  become  dry,  those  of  many 
kinds  do  not  germinate  for  a  year  or  two,  and 
frequently  not  at  all.  In  the  case  of  P.  japonica, 
self-sown  seedlings  come  up  in  great  numbers 
around  old  plants  that  have  been  allowed  to  shed 
their  seeds  ;  but  if  gathered  and  kept  for  a  time 
the  seeds  take  a  long  time  to  germinate.  On 
the  other  hand,  some  of  the  Primula  seeds 
retain  their  vitality  for  a  considerable  time  and 
may  be  successfully  raised  after  being  kept  for 
two  or  three  years.  W.  Irvino. 

(To  be  continued. J 


244 


THE    GARDE^J. 


(May  15,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.  — Roses  are  now 
growiDg  rapidly  and  green  fly  has 
already  made  an  appearance  on  the 
tender  young  shoots.  Unless  prompt 
measures  are  taken  to  eradicate  this 
pest,  serious  damage  will  be  done  in 
a  short  time.  Where  only  a  few  plants  are 
grown,  it   is   an   excellent   plan   to   remove   the 


I. — THE  WRONG  WAT  TO  STAKE  A  ROW  OF 
SWEET  PEAS.  THE  STICKS  ARE  TURNED 
INWARDS  AT  THE  TOP  AND  TOO  MANY 
ARE  USED. 

insects  by  drawing  the  thumb  and  forefinger  up 
the  affected  shoots,  having  a  bucket  of  weak 
insecticide  at  hand  in  which  to  repeatedly  dip 
the  fingers  and  thus  cleanse  them  of  the  aphides. 
Where  many  are  grown,  however,  spraying  with 
some  insecticide,  preferably  one  in  which 
nicotine  predominates,  must  be  adopted.  I  have 
found  West's  "  W. E.O.N."  insecticide  (guaran- 
teed strength)  quite  safe  and  effective  for  the 
purpose  when  applied  strictly  according  to  the 
vendor's  directions.  Maggot  must  also  be 
keenly  watched  for,  and  where  any  leaves  are 
found  to  be  curling  the  cause  most  at  once  be 
ascertained  ;  if  a  maggot  is  present  it  must,  of 
course,  be  promptly  destroyed.  It  will  shortly 
be  necessary  to  lift  bulbs  which  have  occupied 
beds  or  other  prominentpositions  which  summer- 
flowering  subjects  are  to  occupy,  but  the  longer 
they  can  be  left  the  better  will  it  be  for  them 
next  yeir.  We  must  remember  that  after 
flowering  the  plants  store  up  food  and  energy 
for  another  season,  which,  of  course,  they  cannot 
do  if  not  properly  treated.  Where  they  must  be 
lifted  while  the  foliage  is  still  green,  they  should 
be  laid  in  trenches  in  some  out-of-the-way  spot, 
covering  them  with  a  rather  greater  depth  of 
soil  than  they  were  previously.  If  dry  weather 
occurs  just  after  this  removal,  a  good  soaking  or 
two  of  water  will  be  beneficial.  Pansies  and 
Violas  should  have  all  dead  blooms  removed 
promptly,  as  by  so  doing  the  flowering  period  is 


greatly  prolonged.  A  2-inch  thick  mulching  of 
very  short,  thoroughly  decayed  manure  will  be 
of  great  benefit  to  the  plants  at  this  season. 

Vegetable  Garden. — A  sowing  of  late  Peas 
should  now  be  made,  as  these  will  be  very 
welcome  when  the  earlier  crops  are  finished. 
It  is  absolutely  essential  that  the  ground  be 
deeply  dug  and  well  manured,  so  that  the  roots 
can  go  down  in  search  of  moisture,  as  drought  is 
the  greatest  enemy  to  late  Peas.  Sow  in  rows  in 
shallow  trenches.  Where  a  tall  variety  can  be 
accommodated,  Ne  Plus  Ultra  is  excellent, 
growing  as  it  does  from  5  feet  to  6  feet  high  ; 
but  those  who  desire  a  shorter  variety  should 
sow  Gladstone,  which  attains  a  lieight  of  about 
3  feet  6  inches,  and  is  a  sure  cropper  and  of 
splendid  flavour.  The  fly  which  is  the  parent  of 
the  Onion  maggot  is  generally  at  work  about 
this  period.  It  lays  its  eggs  in  the  tender  leaves, 
and  when  the  maggot  hatches  it  eats  its  way 
down  right  through  the  bulb  and  into  the  soil, 
thus  ruining  the  plant.  Spraying  with  a  solu- 
tion of  paraflBn  emulsion  should  be  adopted  as  a 
preventive,  as  the  fly  does  not  care  for  the  scent 
of  this  substance  and  consequently  gives  the 
plants  whereon  it  has  been  used  a  wide  berth. 
Runner  Beans  will  now  be  coming  through 
the  soil,  and  as  slugs  are  exceedingly  fond 
of  these  and  French  Beans,  steps  must  be 
taken  to  ward  off  attacks.  Dusting  soot 
around,  not  on,  the  young  plants  is  good,  or 
finely  sifted  coal-ashes  may  be  sprinkled  on  the 
plants,  taking  care  to  repeat  the  operation  after 
rain  has  fallen.  Keep  the  hoe  going  between 
all  crops  that  are  up  sufficiently  to  be  seen,  as 
great  good  will  be  done  thereby. 

Fruit  Qarden. — Morello  Cherries  are  frequently 
grown  on  north  walls,  and  as  these  fruit  on  the 
wood  of  the  previous  year's  growth,  it  will  be 
well  to  give  the  shoots  which  are  now  growing 
some  attention  as  regards  thinning.  Sufficient 
must,  of  course,  be  left  to  take  the  places  of 
those  which  are  bearing  fruit  this  year,  and  the 
strongest  and  best-placed  should  be  retained  for 
the  purpose.  There  will,  however,  be  a  number 
of  weak  and  misplaced  growths,  whose  removal 
will  be  of  considerable  benefit  to  both  this  and 
next  year's  crops.  Remove  a  few  at  a  time  at 
intervals  of  three  or  four  days.  Black  fly  will 
probably  be  troublesome  on  these  and  also  sweet 
Cherries,  and  spraying  with  a  nicotine  solution 
should  be  adopted. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Young  plants,  both 
from  seeds  and  cuttings,  will  be  growing  very 
rapidly  at  this  period,  and  repotting  must  be 
attended  to  as  the  pots  become  full  of  roots. 
Insect  pests  must  also  be  carefully  watched  for 
and  promptly  dealt  with  when  discovered. 
Ventilation,  shading  and  watering  will  demand 
a  considerable  amount  of  time,  but  neither  must 
be  in  the  least  neglected.  Auriculas  have  now 
finished  flowering,  and  if  they  are  to  be  kept  in 
pots  they  should  be  placed  in  the  coolest  frame 
and  be  well  shaded  and  ventilated  throughout 
the  summer,  otherwise  growth  will  be  soft  and 
unable  to  stand  the  winter  properly.  Where  an 
increase  of  stock  is  needed,  offsets  may  be  taken 
off  as  advised  and  pictorially  explained  in  these 
pages  a  few  weeks  ago.  Perpetual-flowering 
Carnations  should  be  planted  out  at  once  where 
it  is  intended  to  so  grow  them  for  the 
summer.  H. 


and  advice  given  on  this  subject,  one  meets  with 
a  repetition  of  careless  or  indifferent  staking 
each  succeeding  year.  It  is  one  thing,  however, 
to  suggest  staking  Sweet  Peas  and  quite  another 
thing  to  find  the  necessary  stakes.  In  the  suburbs 
of  London  Sweet  Pea-stakes  are  scarce  and  ex- 
pansive, and  seldom  are  they  of  a  length  that  full 
justice  will  be  done  to  the  plants  in  the  course  of 
a  season's  growth.  Country  growers  have  an 
advantage  over  their  town  and  suburban  rivals,  in 
that  they  have  at  hand,  in  almost  every  centre, 
a  plentiful  supply  of  stakes  of  the  very  best  kind. 
There  are  several  substitutes  for  ordinary  Pea- 
boughs,  but  few  of  them  commend  themselves  to 
the  goodwill  of  the  practical  grower. 

Pea-sticks  as  supplied  locally  are  usually  about 
8  feet  in  height,  and  for  most  suburban  growers 
these  stakes  are  quite  tall  enough.  Those  who 
can,  however,  procure  taller  stakes  should  cer- 
tainly do  80,  and  growers  should  be  prepared  to 
pay  extra  for  such. 

In  Fig.  1  the  stakes  are  altogether  too  short 
and  there  are  far  too  many  of  them.  Note  how 
the  stakes  are  turned  inwards  at  their  apex, 
thus  bringing  to  a  premature  conclusion  the 
display  the  plants  may  be  making  when  they 
attain  the  summit  of  the  stakes.  In  Fig.  2  we 
have  represented  a  section  of  a  row  of  Sweet 
Peas  staked  with  Sweet  Pea-boughs  some  10  feet 
in  height.  Contrary  to  the  general  rule  of  the 
past,  the  head  of  the  stakes  turn  slightly  out- 
wards  instead  of   inwards.     The  growths  may 


STAKING    SWEET    PEAS. 

The  staking  and  tying  of  Sweet  Peas  is  a  more 
important  matter  than  most  people  are  disposed 
to  admit,  and  notwithstanding   repeated    notes 


2. — THE  PROPER  WAY  TO  STAKE  A  ROW  OF 
SWEET  PEAS.  NOTE  THE  SPREADING  TOPS 
OF  THE  STICKS. 

ramble  over  these  boughs  without  becoming 
entangled,  and  more  light  and  air  may  pass 
through  the  plants  to  their  advantage  when  the 
growths  become  crowded.  This  system  of  staking 
also  promotes  growth  over  a  longer  period.  In 
staking  plants  in  rows,  it  is  our  practice  to 
insert  small,  spriggy  stakes  or  seared  growths  of 
the  Michaelmas  Daisies  until  growth  is  vigorous 
and  the  need  of  taller  8t,akes  is  apparent.     A 


May  15,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN 


245 


3. — THE  WBONG  WAY  TO  STAKE  A  CLUMP  OF 
SWBET  PEAS.  THE  STICKS  ARE  TOO 
CLOSE  TOGETHER  AT  THE  TOP. 

careful  observation  shows  that  the  stakes  are  by 
no  means  crowded,  but  just  a  sufficient  number 
are  used  to  adequately  support  the  growths  that 
will  ultimately  evolve.  Stakes  are  sometimes 
adjusted  in  a  perfectly  upright  position ;  but 
while  this  is  a  good  system,  it  is  not  so  satis- 
factory as  is  the  case  when  they  are  turned 
outwards.  When  the  stakes  are  placed  in  a 
slanting  position,  much  of  their  height  is  lost  in 
consequence ;  this  is  a  sufficient  deterrent  in  itself, 
apart  altogether  from  any  other  consideration. 

Fig.  3  portrays  the  wrong  method  of  staking 
Sweet  Peas  when  grown  in  clumps.  This  is  an 
unsatisfactory  way  of  staking  them,  although 
there  is  ample  room  at  the  lower  part  of  the 
stakes  for  the  plants  to  grow  quite  satisfactorily. 
We  have  to  remember  that  in  the  late  summer, 
when  the  haulm  has  reached  the  apex  of  the 
stakes,  that  the  turning  inwards  of  their  heads 
prevents  further  growth  being  made,  and  a 
tangled  form  of  growth  will  of  necessity 
evolve.  This  state  of  affairs  must  be  strictly 
avoided  at  the  outset.  In  order  that  the 
proper  way  of  staking  Sweet  Peas  in  clumps 
may  be  better  understood,  we  have  portrayed 
in  Fig.  4  a  clump  of  Sweet  Peas  staked  in 
proper  fashion.  Here  it  will  be  observed  the 
stakes  turn  outwards  ;  only  a  slight  inclination 
outwards  is  necessary.  Should  the  lower  portion 
of  the  stakes  that  are  used  be  rather  spare,  or 
free  from  those  twiggy  branches  that  we 
naturally  desire,  short,  twiggy  stakes  should  be 
inserted  to  carry  up  the  growths  to  the  branch- 
ing portions  of  the  larger  stakes  inserted  for 
their  support.  It  will  also  be  necessary  to  tie 
the  growths  to  the  stakes  from  time  to  time  in 
order  the  better  to  control  them,  and  in  this  way 
regulate  their  growth  to  some  extent. 


tion  to  their  requirements,  and  especially 
does  this  apply  to  those  of  an  evergreen  charac- 
ter. Dealing  first  with  the  deciduous  shrubs, 
which,  of  course,  include  Roses,  it  is  quite  pro- 
bable that  these  have  made  a  good  attempt  to 
grow,  and  green  shoots  give  evidence  of  this 
attempt.  Such  shoots,  however,  are  frequently 
somewhat  misleading  to  the  beginner,  luring  him 
on  to  think  that  all  is  well,  when  such  is  not 
always  the  case. 

If  the  weather  is  naturally  rainy  it  is  practi- 
cally certain  that  the  shrubs  in  this  condition 
are  doing  well,  but  it  is  in  the  event  of  severe 
drought  that  danger  is  likely  to  accrue.  A 
shrub  planted  this  spring,  even  if  it  has  done 
exceedingly  well,  will  have  made  only  a  compara- 
tively few  new  roots,  and  those  of  limited 
length  and  tender  character ;  consequently,  if 
the  soil  becomes  dry  they  are  killed  and  the 
shrub  succumbs.  I  have  seen  such  plants  die 
off  after  having  made  several  inches  of  new 
growth,  and  the  owner  has  been  at  a  loss  to 
understand  why.  A  good  soaking  of  water  once 
a  week,  and  a  mulching  over  the  roots  with  short 
manure,  will  probably  save  the  life  of  many 
spring-planted  shrubs  should  the  weather  prove 
hot  and  dry.  Evergreens  are  usually  planted 
late  in  spring,  and  these  suffer  even  more  from 
drought  than  deciduous  specimens,  hence  there 
is  greater  necessity  for  looking  after  them.  In 
addition  to  the  waterings  and  mulchings  noted 
above,  they  should  be  syringed  twice  daily  during 
dry  weather  until  it  is  seen  that  new  growth  is 
active.  The  above  points  may  appear  of  a 
trivial  character,  but  putting  them  into  opera- 
tion frequently  means  saving  the  lives  of  valu- 
able shrubs.  K. 


NEWLY    PLANTED    SHRUBS. 

During  the  next  few  weeks  will  be  the  most 
trying  time  for  shrubs  that  were  planted  in  the 
open  garden  this  spring,  and  it  is  now  that  many 
such  die,  owing  to  the  omission  of  a  little  atten- 


WORK  AMONG  THE  STRAWBERRIES. 
The  flowers  of  these  in  most  localities  are  now 
open  and  give  promise  of  a  splendid  crop  of 
luscious  fruits  in  the  near  future.  The  beginner 
in  gardening  usually  attempts  to  grow  his  or  her 
own  Strawberries,  and  rightly  so,  as  they  are 
worth  ten  times  the  amount  that  the  squashed, 
dirty  examples  usually  sold  are.  A  few  cultural 
items  will  now  need  attention  if  we  are  to  gather 
the  fruits  in  perfection,  and  the  mention  of  them 
here  may  be  of  value. 

The  first  point  to  consider  is  the  maintaining 
of  the  fruits  in  a  clean,  non-gritty  condition,  and 
this  is  usually  done  by  placing  some  strawy 
material  between  and  arovmd  the  plants.  Many 
gardeners  place  long  stable  manure  between  the 
plants  early  in  April,  and  by  the  time  the  fruits 
are  ripening  this  has  been  washed  clean  and 
answers  the  purpose  admirably,  besides  having 
previously  provided  the  plants  with  a  certain 
amount  of  nourishment.  Where  this  has  not 
been  done,  however,  recourse  must  be  had  to 
clean  straw,  or,  failing  this,  spent  tan  from  a 
tanyard  will  answer.  Never  use  hay  or  the 
mowings  from  the  lawn.  Although  these  do  no 
harm  should  the  weather  prove  dry,  they  quickly 
cause  the  fruits  to  decay  during  a  wet  season. 

Before  placing  the  litter  in  position  all  weeds 
must  be  destroyed  and,  if  large,  cleared  away, 
afterwards  giving  the  surface  of  the  bed  a  dust- 
ing of  soot  sufficient  to  make  it  black.  This  will 
keep  slugs  away.  The  litter  should  be  tucked 
well  under  the  trusses  of  bloom,  so  that  the 
resultant  fruits  rest  upon  it,  and  it  is  necessary 
to  practically  cover  the  whole  of  the  soil  between 
the  rows,  otherwise  the  fruits  will  get  splashed 
when  heavy  rains  fall. 

All  runners  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  seen  ; 
but  where  it  is  desired  to  increase  the  stock  a 
few  plants  should  be  allowed  to  retain  their 
runners  for  the  purpose.  These  should  be  speci- 
mens which  are  flowering  freely,  and  after  being 
duly  noted  the  blossoms  should  be  removed,  so 
as  to  throw  the  whole  of  the  plant's  energy  into 
the  formation  of  runners  ;  never  propagate  from 
a  barren  plant,  as  the  trait  is  apt  to  be  trans- 
mitted to  the  progeny. 

Birds,  of  course,  are  exceedingly  fond  of  the 
fruits,  and  steps  must  be  taken  to  check  their 


depredations.  Undoubtedly  the  best  plan  is  to 
construct  a  wooden  framework  over  the  bed  some 
5  feet  high,  and  over  this  stretch  old  fish-netting, 
which  can  be  obtained  very  cheaply  from  adver- 
tisers in  The  Garden.  This  must  be  lashed 
together  so  that  no  holes  are  left,  else  the  birds 
are  sure  to  find  them.  Failing  the  wooden 
framework,  forked  sticks,  some  18  inches  long, 
may  be  thrust  into  the  soil  among  the  plants  and 
the  nets  placed  over  these,  the  forked  end  of  the 
sticks  being  uppermost,  so  as  to  hold  the  nets  free 
from  the  plants.  H.  W. 

HINTS  ON  MANURING  FLOWER-BEDS. 
As  certain  kinds  of  bedding-out  plants  thrive 
best,  and  are  most  satisfactory,  when  grown  in  a 
comparatively  poor  soil,  it  is  unwise  to  manure 
all  the  beds  in  the  same  proportion  where  several 
kinds  of  plants  are  to  be  ultimately  bedded  out. 
For  example,  we  may  refer  to  Zonal  Pelargo- 
niums. These  plants  would  not  be  successful  if 
they  were  grown  in  a  very  rich  soil,  because  the 
shoots  would  be  too  gross  and  sappy  and  flowers 
would  be  few  in  number.  A  medium  rich  soil  is 
best  for  these  plants.  Nasturtiums  would  prove 
still  less  satisfactory  in  a  very  rich  soil  with 
regard  to  freedom  of  flowering. 

Violas,  Pansies  and  similar  kinds  must  be  grown 
in  a  rich  soil,  because  the  plants  produce  flowers 
so  freely  that  sufficient  new  growth  would  not 
be  made  to  maintain  the  succession  of  bloom  if 
the  rooting  medium  was  poor  in  quality. 
Tuberous  Begonias  like  a  liberal  quantity  of 
manure  in  the  soil,  but  it  must  be  short  and  well- 
rotted.  Calceolarias  must  be  grown  in  rich  soil, 
and  in  their  case  the  manure  ought  to  be  mixed 
with  the  soil  several  inches  below  the  surface,  so 
as  to  induce  the  roots  to  go  downwards  in  a 
cooler  rooting  medium. 

Plants  such  as  Maize  and  the  Castor  Oil,  which 
are  grown  for  their  beautiful  leaves,  must  always 
be  put  in  rich  soil.  These  few  examples  will  be 
suificient  to  guide  the  beginner  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  borders  for  various  kinds  of  bedding- 
out  plants,  so  that  the  latter  will  give  every 
satisfaction.  Shamrock. 


-THE  (PROPER    way    TO   STAKE   A  CLUMP    OF 
SWEET   PEAS. 


246 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  15,  1909. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Lawns. — The  warm,  sunny  weather  we  experi- 
enced in  April,  followed  by  the  light  showers  of 
rain,  caused  the  grass  to  grow  rapidly.  It  will 
now  be  much  more  easy  work  to  cut  the  lawn 
grass,  as  the  latter  is  quite  young  and  tender,  and 
not  tough  like  the  old  grass  was ;  but  the 
younger  blades  of  grass  soon  clog  the  cylinder  of 
the  machine,  and,  unless  it  is  constantly  cleared 
away  the  work  will  be  harder  and  the  lawn 
present  a  furrowed  appearance.  If  the  grass  has 
grown  rather  long,  set  the  cutting-knife  a  little 
higher  than  usual  and  so  mow  the  lawn.  Then 
put  down  the  knife  to  the  usual  level  and  once 
more  mow  the  lawn,  passing  the  machine  over  it 
in  the  opposite  direction  this  time.  By  following 
this  plan  the  lawn  grass  will  be  brought  into 
very  good  condition  again. 

Grass  Edgings. — It  is  advisable  to  trim  grass 
verges  late  in  spring,  so  as  to  escape  late  frosts. 
They  are  usually  cut  during  the  winter-time,  and 
afterwards  left  exposed  to  the  frosts,  with  the 
result  that  the  new  edges  crumble  away  again, 
and,  of  course,  this  means  that  paths  and  flower- 
beds are  unduly  widened  if  the  verges  are  cut 
again  after  the  frosty  period  is  past,  or,  if  left 
uncut,  they  present  a  ragged  appearance  through- 
out the  summer,  so  that  amateurs  will  readily 
see  how  important  it  is  to  cut  the  verges  at  the 
proper  time.  Furthermore,  the  grass  can  be 
trimmed  more  easily  every  week  throughout  the 
summer  months  when  the  verges  are  firm  and 
clear. 

Rockeries— These  are  just  now  looking  very 
beautiful,  and  everything  must  be  done  to  keep 
them  in  good  order.  Weeds  must  not  be  allowed 
to  grow,  and  where  it  is  found  that  the  soil  is 
dry,  water  should  be  given  without  delay. 
Many  town  garden  rockeries  are  composed 
chiefly  of  stones  or  similar  material,  and  very 
little  compost  is  placed  among  them  for  the 
various  plants  to  root  in,  so  that  it  is  really  very 
necessary  to  be  on  the  alert  and  prevent  any  of 
the  plants  suffering  unduly  from  lack  of  moisture. 
Although  the  weather  may  be  rainy,  all  plants 
growing  on  rockeries  do  not  get  sufficient 
moisture,  chiefly  on  account  of  the  wrong  way 
in  which  the  rockeries  are  built.  Many  kinds  of 
plants  grown  on  rockeries  like  plenty  of  moisture 
at  the  roots,  but  they  also  require  thorough 
drainage. 

Pansies.  —  Seedling  Pansies  make  splendid 
summer  bedding  plants,  and  if  the  faded  flowers 
are  regularly  picked  off,  so  that  seed-pods  do 
not  form,  a  prolonged  display  of  blossom  will  be 
the  result.  At  the  present  time  all  flower-buds 
which  are  showing  on  spring-raised  seedlings 
must  be  removed,  so  as  to  get  nice  bushy 
specimens  for  putting  out  in  due  course.  In  the 
meantime  get  the  beds  ready  for  the  plants. 
Pansies  thrive  in  a  deeply  dug,  well  enriched  soil, 
and  such  a  rooting  medium  must  be  provided 
for  them.  If  the  soil  is  very  poor,  the  plants  do 
not  make  much  growth  and  the  flowers  are  also 
small.  I  know  that  many  amateurs  do  not 
trouble  to  make  their  border  soil  very  rich  for 
Pansies,  simply  because  the  latter  are  plants 
that  are  easily  grown;  but  they  cannot  be  grown 
really  well  without  very  careful  treatment.  Of 
course,  it  is  necessary  to  decide  upon  the  position 
of  the  beds  before  the  soil  can  be  got  ready  for 
the  plants.  Pansies  will  do  well  in  almost  any 
position  except  one  which  is  too  much  shaded  ; 
if  unduly  shaded  the  stems  become  drawn  and 
weak,  and  the  flowers  borne  on  them  are  small 
and  puny  too.  If  the  roots  are  grown  in  a  moist 
soil,  the  plants  do  not  degenerate  when  exposed 
to  the  full  sunshine. 

Polyanthuses  and  Pbimrose.i. — Directly  the 
flowers  have  faded  on  these  plants,  the  latter 
must  be  lifted  and  replanted  in  a  border  which 
is  shaded  from  the  sun  during  the  middle  part 
of  the  day.  If  a  north  border  is  available  it 
will  be  an  ideal  place  for  these  plants,  as  they 
thrive  best  in  cool  quarters  in  summer.     Avon. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flowbb    Garden. 

BEDDING  PLANTS.— These  will  now 
require  very  close  attention  to  harden 
ing  prior  to  planting  them  out  into 
their  summer  quarters.  Where  there 
are  ample  means  provided,  such,  for 
instance,  as  cold  frames,  those  plants 
which  may  have  been  growing  in  vineries  and 
other  warm  structures  may  be  transferred  to 
them,  and  with  a  little  care  and  attention  as  to 
airing,  shading  in  very  bright  weather  and  cover- 
ing up  the  frames  on  cold  nights,  the  stems  and 
leaves  will  soon  be  sufficiently  hardened  to  have 
the  lights  removed  entirely.  Any  of  the  hardier 
plants  may  be  put  out  at  once,  but  the  more 
tender  kinds  should  not  be  planted  till  the  end 
of  the  month. 

Preparing  Beds.  — As  fast  as  the  spring  bedding 
is  over,  the  beds  should  be  got  in  readiness  for 
the  summer  occupants.  Polyanthuses  and  many 
other  plants  for  flowering  next  spring  may  be 
divided  and  planted  at  once  on  suitable  borders 
in  rows  9  inches  apart,  keeping  the  colours  and 
varieties  correctly  labelled.  Asters,  Stocks, 
Zinnias  and  similar  plants  must,  if  not  already 
done,  be  boxed  off  or  pricked  out  in  frames  in  a 
nice,  sweet,  sandy  soil,  and  should  not  be  unduly 
exposed  for  some  time. 

Rose  CiiUings. — See  that  these  are  made  firm  it 
loosened  by  frost,  otherwise  they  will  fail  to  root. 
Press  down  the  cutting  and  tread  the  soil  firmly 
along  the  rows. 

Fruit  Garden. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — These  have  flowered 
well  and  set  ample  fruit,  and  there  is  a  con- 
spicuous absence  of  leaf-blister  (Exoascus 
deformans)  ;  but  where  such  has  put  in  an 
appearance,  pinch  off  the  affected  parts,  take 
them  away  and  burn  them.  Should  green  fly  be 
troul)lesome,  syringe  well  with  quassia  extract. 
I  have  been  once  over  all  our  trees  and  removed 
several  of  the  foreright  shoots  and  those  behind 
the  wood,  but  I  do  not  care  to  be  too  severe  till 
all  danger  of  frosts  is  over.  The  remainder  of 
the  protecting  material  may  now  be  removed  and 
put  away  when  dry.  If  nets,  let  them  be  labelled 
as  to  size,  &c. ,  for  convenience  when  employing 
them  for  other  purposes. 

Straioberry  Beds. — Those  who  make  it  a  prac- 
tice of  planting  out  plants  which  have  been 
forced  should  keep  them  in  the  pots  no  longer 
than  is  necessary.  If  the  land  is  in  readiness 
and  the  plants  have  been  sufficiently  hardened, 
remove  a  few  of  the  lower  leaves,  well  soak  the 
roots  before  turning  them  out  of  the  pots, 
slightly  disentangle  the  roots  and  plant  firmly 
at  2  feet  apart.  Young  plants  from  the  nursery 
stock  may  be  planted,  if  not  already  done,  either 
in  clumps  of  three  or  singly  ;  and  between  the 
rows  of  these  small  plants  a  crop  of  Lettuce, 
Turnips,  Spinach,  or  some  other  quick-growing 
vegetable  may  be  taken,  this  doing  no  injury  to 
future  growth. 

Vegetables. 
Winter  Ore«ns  and  Celery. — When  these  Greens 
are  of  no  further  use  have  them  cleared  off  the 
ground  at  once.  Celery  trenches  may  then  be 
made  and  prepared.  For  the  early  supply  the 
trenches  for  single  rows  should  be  4  feet  apart 
and  a  little  more  for  late  varieties.  Put  a  good 
dressing  of  manure  at  the  bottom  of  the  trenches, 
between  which  some  suitable  crops  may  be 
grown.  Plants  in  boxes  will  be  all  the  better  if 
carefully  planted  out  on  a  suitable  border,  at  a 
reasonable  distance  apart  to  induce  a  sturdy 
growth,  prior  to  finally  transferring  them  to  the 
trenches.  H.  Mabkham. 

(Gtkrdener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamei. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Vegetable  Department. 

Onions  raised  from  seed  sown  in  January  may, 
if  the  weather  is  good  and  the  hardening  process 
sufficiently  advanced,  be  now  transferred  to  the 
open.  A  well-enriched,  deeply  worked  soil  is 
necessary  to  success,  and  as  this  has  probably 
been  attended  to  earlier  and  the  surface  left 
rough,  the  same  may  have  a  dressing  of  soot 
applied  and  the  whole  reduced  to  a  tine  tilth. 
Make  all  firm  by  treading  when  quite  dry  and 
mark  out  the  stations  for  the  plants  at  about 
12  inches  apart.  Lift  the  plants  carefully  and 
replant,  keeping  the  bases  as  near  the  surface 
level  as  possible.  Afterwards  apply  water  if 
required  and  afford  shelter  from  strong  winds  for 
a  time. 

Leeks  similarly  raised  are  best  grown  in 
trenches  to  facilitate  the  blanching  process  later 
on.  If  paper  tubes  or  collars  are  placed  upon 
these  when  planted,  support  and  protection  are 
thereby  afforded  the  plants  and  elongation  of  the 
stems  accelerated. 

Parsley. — To  grow  the  fine  specimens  often 
seen  upon  show  tables,  early  sowing,  careful 
culture  and  transplantation  to  good  soil  as  soon 
as  the  weather  permits  are  essential.  Where 
possible,  allow  a  space  of  at  least  18  inches 
between  the  plants,  and  be  sparing  in  the  use  of 
manures  at  all  seasons. 

Sowing  Seeds.  — Dwarf  and  Runner  Beans  may 
now  be  sown  in  the  open,  while  others  forwarded 
in  pots  should  be  freely  exposed  to  the  elements, 
whenever  this  course  is  safe,  preparatory  to  their 
being  planted  out  when  danger  from  frost  is 
past. 

Broad  Beans  and  Peas  for  succession  should 
now  be  sown  in  larger  quantities.  Of  the  latter 
there  are  many  excellent  varieties  from  which  to 
make  a  selection  ;  but  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  to  name 
only  one,  would  be  found  very  satisfactory. 
Plants  Under  Glass. 

Tomatoes. — Pot  on  the  plants  as  they  become 
well  rooted,  and  afford  sufficient  space  that  air 
and  light  may  circulate  freely  among  them.  If 
for  planting  out  in  frames  or  against  walls, 
endeavour  to  get  at  least  one  cluster  of  fruit  set 
before  this  is  done.  Plants  having  fruit  ripe  or 
ripening  may  have  the  leading  shoots  stopped 
when  a  good  crop  is  assured,  while  all  side 
growths  should  be  rubbed  off  as  they  appear. 
Water  fruiting  plants  freely  and  apply  stimu- 
lants, by  way  of  artificial  manure,  at  discretion, 
according  to  the  weight  of  crop  and  the  vigour  of 
the  plants. 

Chrysanthemums. — All  late-struck  plants  should 
be  potted  before  they  become  root-bound  and  be 
placed  in  a  frame,  where  they  may  be  kept  close 
for  a  few  days  thereafter.  Specimen  and  decorative 
plants  require  a  certain  amount  of  stopping  being 
done  to  induce  the  desired  bushy  habit.  In  this, 
however,  extremes  should  be  avoided,  or  numbers 
of  thin,  weakly  growths  will  be  produced  that 
are  useless  for  flower  production  and  tend  to 
overcrowd  the  plants  to  the  detriment  of  the 
foliage. 

Lawn  and  Pleasure  Grounds. 

Mowing  will  now  take  up  considerable  time, 
and  it  is  a  mistake  to  make  one  cutting  take  the 
place  of  what  should  be  two,  under  the  impres- 
sion that  time  and  labour  are  thereby  saved.  The 
same  applies  to  the  first  cutting,  which  is  often 
deferred  until  the  machine  works  indifferently, 
and  the  ill-effects  are  visible  long  afterwards. 
Planting  of  trees  and  shrubs  being  finished — with 
the  exception,  perhaps,  of  Hollies,  which  remove 
well  any  time  this  month — any  overgrown  ever- 
green shrubs  may  be  reduced  to  reasonable  pro- 
portions or,  in  the  case  of  Laurels,  Portugal 
Laurels  and  Rhododendrons,  be  cut  hard  back, 
with  every  prospect  of  shoots  quickly  springing 
from  about  their  bases.        James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 
CtaUoway  ITouse,  Ga/rlieaton,  Wigtownshire, 


May  15,  1909.J 


'II II':     (JAKJJEiX. 


247 


NEW     PLANTS. 

LiELIO-CATTLETA        Dr.        R.  ScHIFFMAN 

WESTONBiftT  VARIETY. — This  18  One  of  the  best 
Orchids  that  has  been  shown  for  a  long  time. 
Of  superb  shape  and  splendid  substance,  it  is  a 
flower  that  will  appeal  strongly  to  all  lovers  of 
Orchids.  The  size  and  form  are  much  in 
advance  of  the  type,  which  in  itself  is  a  good 
Orchid.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  of  the  usual 
rosy  mauve  hue,  the  large  labellum  being  rich 
carmine,  with  orange  and  yellow  markings  in  the 
throat.  In  addition  the  margins  are  beautifully 
crimped.  The  parentage  is  given  as  Cattleya 
Mendelii  x  Lajlio-Cattleya  callistoglossa.  Shown 
by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  CLE.,  C.V.O., 
Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire.  First-class 
certificate. 

Viburnum  Garlesii.  — To  our  full  description  of 
this  delightfully  frag  rant- flowered  shrub  that 
we  gave  a  year  ago,  when  the  plant  received  an 
award  of  merit,  we  have  now  the  pleasure  to 
add  that  it  has  withstood  unharmed  some  29°  of 
frost  without  the  least  protection.  Its  perfect 
hardiness  therefore  increases  or  enhances  its 
value,  and  the  proved  fact  will  doubtless  cause 
this  welcome  addition  to  choice  flowering  shrubs 
to  be  much  in  demand.  Grown  with  protection 
the  wax-like  clusters  of  flowers  are  nearly  pure 
white,  while  grown  in  the  open  air  the  flower- 
clusters  are  tinged  with  pink.  Exhibited  by 
Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  K.  C.  V.  0. ,  Dorking.  First- 
class  certicate. 

Saxifraga  Clibranii.  —  A  reddish  -  flowered 
variety  of  one  of  the  mossy  Saxifrages,  the 
plant  being  very  profusely  and  freely  flowered, 
it  will  at  least  prove  as  welcome  as  it  is 
distinct.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Clibrans,  Altrincham. 
Award  of  merit. 

Nf.phrohpis  lycopodmoidea.  — We  do  not  recog- 
nise any  special  appropriateness  in  the  specific 
name  in  this  ease,  though  the  plant  undoubtedly 
belongs  to  a  class  that  is  destined  for  much 
popularity  in  the  near  future.  The  fronds  are 
of  the  same  dense,  plumose  character  of  some 
others  of  the  group,  though  less  large  generally. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  T.  Roehford,  Turnford  Hall 
Nurseries.     Award  of  merit. 

Saxifraya  decipiens  Arkiorightii. — A  large 
and  pure  white  flowering  variety  of  con- 
siderable merit.  The  newcomer  belongs  to 
the  mossy  section  of  the  group  and  is  possessed 
of  a  habit  not  unlike  that  of  S.  csespitosa. 
Shown  by  Bakers,  Wolverhampton.  Award  of 
merit. 

Cineraria  flavescens  (Cineraria  Feltham  Beauty 
X  Senecio  auriculatissima). — A  welcome  and 
highly  interesting  plant  and  the  first  step  to- 
wards a  yellow  Cineraria.  The  plant  possesses 
much  the  habit  of  growth  and  flowering  of  the 
first-named  parent,  the  heads  of  blossoms  being 
very  compact  and  the  flowers  of  large  size.  The 
colour  on  first  opening  is  of  a  pale  canary  or 
deep  sulphur  yellow  tone,  which  pales  with  the 
fuller  expansion  of  the  florets.  Shown  by  Messrs. 
James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea. 
Award   of  merit. 

Primula  Unique  Improved.  — A  very  desirable 
novelty  having  P.  oookbumiana  and  P.  pulveru- 
lenta  as  its  parents,  the  hybrid  partaking  largely, 
apparently,  of  the  perennial  character  of  the 
last-named  species,  and  likewise  its  habit  and 
mealiness  of  stem  and  general  vigour,  the  colour 
ranging  between  the  two  parents.  The  blossoms 
are  of  large  size,  and  there  were  in  the  exhibited 
examples  at  least  four  or  five  whorls  of  the 
flowers.  Obviously  a  welcome  and  good  plant. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons, 
Limited,  Chelsea.     Award  of  merit. 

Hydrangea  hortensis  alba.  — A  good  and  useful 
as  well  as  a  meritorious  plant,  valuable  alike  to 
the  decorator,  the  private  and  professional 
gardener,  and  the  market  grower.  The  large 
blossoms  are  of  a  good  white  tone,  and  in  well- 
grown  examples  this  attribute  will  be  seen  to 
even  greater  advantage.  Shown  by  Messrs. 
Hugh  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield.     Award  of  merit. 


All  the  foregoing  were  exhibited  before  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  on  the  4th  inst. , 
when  the  awards  were  made. 


PHIMULA.  FOKRESTII. 
This  beautiful  Yunnan  species  (see  page  242) 
created  considerable  interest  when  shown  by 
Bees,  Limited,  Mill  Street,  Liverpool,  before  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  on  the  20th  ult. 
The  blossoms  are  a  beautiful  golden  yellow,  and 
are  borne  on  erect  stems  some  8  inches  in  height. 
As  this  plant  has  proved  hardy  in  Cheshire,  it 
may  be  looked  upon  as  a  superb  acquisition  to 
the  outdoor  Primulas.  The  floral  committee  gave 
it  a  first-class  certificate. 


DAFFODILS    AT    SURBITON. 

LOOKING  back  to  a  period  of  thirty-five 
years  or  more  in  the  history  of  the 
modern  Daffodil  —  into  that  rather 
remote  past  when  such  varieties  as 
V  Figaro,  Stella,  C3mosure,  Frank 
Miles  and  others  akin  were  as  the 
gems  in  a  crown,  and  when  the  "  great 
trumpeters,"  such  as  Emperor  and  Empress,  were 
virtually  unique  and  unrivalled  in  their  way — 
and  comparing  these  with  the  still  more  modern 
race  and  the  accomplishments  of  recent  years, 
we  see  much  to  admire,  while  there  is  much 
food  for  reflection  and  surmise.  In  those  past 
years  the  rate  of  progress  has  been  nothing 
short  of  marvellous,  and  this  in  all  directions 
and  in  all  the  phases  of  the  flower.  For  example, 
to  the  thin-petalled  variety  has  been  imparted 
great  substance  ;  to  the  star-petalled  flower — 
graceful  and  beautiful  as  these  still  are  in 
garden  and  woodland,  copse  and  dell  —  has 
been  given  a  more  rounded  form  and  ovate  as 
well  as  overlapping  perianth  segments,  that 
appear  to  constitute  in  part  the  florist's  ideal  of 
the  flower  ;  while  in  other  directions,  such  as  in 
the  Poeticus  race — with  all  thanks  to  Mr. 
Engleheart  for  the  same — there  has  not  been 
merely  an  improvement  in  the  flower,  but  a 
bridging-over,  connecting-up,  gap- filling  process 
at  work,  the  direct  result  of  which  is  that  we 
have  to-day  an  unbroken  chain  of  Poet's  varie- 
ties for  weeks  together.  These  are  a  few  of  the 
accomplishments  of  the  recent  past,  but  only  a 
few  in  very  truth,  for  there  is  that  newer  race 
of  Engleheartii  varieties,  together  with  giant 
strides  in  the  Leedsii  and  Ajax  sections,  apart 
from  many  others,  to  be  recorded. 

If  we  try  to  look  into  the  future  of  the  Daffodil 
as  a  whole,  or  endeavour  to  measure  the  progress 
of  the  future  by  the  progress  of  the  past,  or  to 
conjure  in  our  own  minds  with  what  giants  the 
Daffodil  world  will  be  peopled  in  the  years  to 
come,  there  is  abundant  scope  for  the  idealist, 
the  dreamer  and  the  imaginative  one.  Who,  for 
example,  would  have  dared  to  hope  or  dream 
that  the  Daffodil  of  a  few  years  ago  would  have 
yielded  such  giants  as  The  Czarina,  Lord 
Roberts,  King  Alfred,  Peter  Barr,  C.  H.  Curtis, 
May  Queen  and  Maggie  May,  to  name  but  a 
few  ;  and  with  such  forces  in  hand  who  shall  say 
what  the  future  has  in  store  ?  One  thing,  how- 
ever, we  may  do,  and  that  is  to  venture  the  hope 
that  not  all  the  grace  and  beauty  and  charm  of 
the  Daffodil  may  be  lost  in  mere  size,  and  that 
size  in  particular  which,  being  interpreted, 
means  coarseness,  would  render  necessary  the 
exhibiting  of  such  things  as  solitary  examples  in 
a  vase  rather  than  as  to-day  grouped  or  arranged 
in  the  receptacle  named  and  thereby  affording 
and  displaying  their  greatest  possible  decorative 
value. 

We  have  referred  to  the  giants  of  the  race  and 
those,  too,  of  great  size  ;  but  the  giants  may  be 
of  a  twofold  order,  viz. ,  the  big  giants  favoured 
by  stature  and  the  like,  and  that  other  set,  and 
which  are  giants  equally  in  their  way,  and  even 
more  epoch-making  by  reason  of  their  unique  and 
chaste  characteristics.     For  such  as  these  latter 


we  must  look  to  the  coming  races  of  triandrus 
and  Johnstonii  hybrids,  in  both  of  which  we  may 
soon  see  many  pearls  of  great  price,  gems  of 
snowy  or  alabaster  whiteness,  and  for  which  no 
praise  will  be  too  great.  These  are  the  things 
we  look  for  and  hope  to  see,  and  they  are 
probably  much  nearer  to  us  and  to  our  time  than 
the  scarlet  Daffodil,  which  a  score  of  years  ago 
was  thought  a  not  impossible  thing.  So  much, 
then,  for  the  progress  of  the  Daffodil  and  the 
possible  achievements  of  the  future. 

Doubtless  many  who  visit  the  remarkable 
Daffodil  grounds  of  Messrs.  Barr  are  impressed 
in  various  ways,  and  one  impression  that  clings 
to  the  writer,  as  year  by  year  he  renews  his 
acquaintance  with  these  acres  of  waving  or 
dancing  blossoms,  is  the  vastness  of  the  collec- 
tion as  compared  with  the  years  that  are  gone, 
and  when  such  as  Barri  conspicua,  for  example, 
existed  merely  in  dozens,  whereas  now  it  may  be 
seen  in  its  hundreds  of  thousands,  and  still  as 
popular  and  almost  as  unique  as  of  yore.  It  was 
in  these  same  early  days  that  Mr.  Peter  Barr, 
V.M.H. ,  with  a  Daylight  Saving  Bill  of  his  own 
then  in  vogue,  and  which  differed  from  its 
would-be  namesake  of  to-day  in  the  one  essential 
of  its  being  a  daylight  saver  at  both  ends  of  the 
day,  worked  early  and  late  to  reduce  the  many 
varieties  of  that  time  to  some  sort  of  order,  and 
the  task  was  certainly  not  a  light  one.  At  that 
time,  too,  a  yard  square  patch  of  Narcissus 
Poeticus  omatus  was  regarded  as  a  big  stock  ; 
to-day  it  is  grown  by  hundreds  of  acres,  and, 
succeeding  everywhere,  so  to  speak,  is  practically 
unique.  It  is,  therefore,  the  then  and  now  of 
the  Daffodil  world  that  so  strongly  impresses 
one,  and,  naturally,  the  mental  picture  of  the 
past  fades  into  utter  significance — not  in  im- 
portance, but  in  the  acreage  covered  and  the 
myriads  that  are  grown  at  the  present  time. 

Largely  grown,  however,  and  highly  popular 
as  these  flowers  are,  there  is  room  for  more  of 
them  in  park  and  woodland  and  garden  alike, 
and  they  are  destined  to  be  much  more  largely 
used  in  the  near  future.  Naturally,  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  best  of  all  sections  is  a  matter  of  the 
first  importance  at  Surbiton,  and  receives 
attention  as  such.  Still,  as  each  year  comes 
round,  the  work  of  cross-breeding  goes  on  apace, 
and  each  year  brings  its  own  quota  of  seedlings 
that  are  flowering  for  the  first  time,  and  the 
noting  of  which  entails  much  labour  and  watch- 
ing. Then,  of  course,  there  is  the  general 
collection  to  be  overlooked,  checked  or  rogued  if 
necessary,  to  say  nothing  of  a  great  influx  of 
visitors,  all  of  whom  are  desirous  of  seeing  the 
best.  Among  the  newer  creations  in  these 
flowers,  the  members  of  the  Poetaz  race  are 
interesting,  and  such  as  Elvira,  with  perfectly 
erect  habit  of  growth,  and  Aspasia  are  a  pair 
remarkable  for  good  growth  and  free  flowering. 
The  Poeticus  race  is  now  a  strong  one,  and  the 
visitor  may  select  at  will  from  such  as  Cassandra, 
Dante,  Almira,  Glory,  Horace  and  Chaucer,  and 
be  perfectly  satisfied  with  his  choice.  Should 
the  Engleheartii  forms  possess  a  special  attrac- 
tion for  such  an  one,  such  varieties  as  Red 
Emperor,  Sequin,  Royal  Star,  Circlet,  Charm, 
Incognita  and  Astradente  will  be  found  worthy 
representatives  of  this  distinct  and  much-prized 
group.  In  the  great  incomparabilis  group,  too, 
there  is  a  wealth  of  material  to  select  from,  and, 
happily,  the  majority  of  these  are  as  much  at 
home  in  the  border  as  in  grass  or  woodland. 
Bedouin  is  one  of  the  novelties  in  this  set,  and  a 
really  magnificent  variety  it  is,  too  choice  and 
too  costly  for  any  but  the  best  positions  as  yet. 
Barn  Owl  is  an  exceptionally  distinct  form 
with  big  crown  and  unusually  long,  well-starred 
flowers.  Blackwell  is  one  of  the  most  handsome 
and  early,  its  fiery  orange  cup  being  most  distinct ; 
and  Gloria  Mundi,  Lady  Margaret  Boscawen, 
Lobster  and  Lucifer  are  other  notable  varieties 
of  the  same  section.  In  white  trumpet  sorts  are 
to  be  found  not  a  few  of  the  choicest  and  best, 
and  if  we  take  the  renowned  Peter  Barr,  Alice 
Knights,  Loveliness,  Lady  Audrey,  Lady  of  the 


248 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  15,  1909. 


Snows,  May  Queen  andMme.  deGraaffwe  have  a 
few  of  the  leading  sorts  that  are  indispensable  to 
the  exhibitor  or  the  grower  of  the  best  of  these 
inimitable  flowers.  A  set  of  the  popular  bicolors 
should  include  Dake  of  Bedford,  Cygnet,  Cal- 
purnia,  Queen  Christina,  Weardale  Perfection, 
Seraphim,  E.  T.  Cook,  Knight  Errant  and 
Pharaoh  ;  and  there  are  others. 

In  the  yellow  trumpet  section,  the  Admirals 
Togo  and  Makaroff  are  notable  varieties,  while 
others  of  towering  strength  in  the  same  group 
are  Monarch,  Buttercup  (wonderful  in  colour), 
C.  H.  Curtis,  George  Philip  Haydon,  Lord 
Roberts,  King  Alfred,  Golden  Bell  and  Glory 
de  Leiden.  The  selection,  however,  might  be 
extended  indefinitely  :  but  our  mission  at  the 
moment  is  not  the  compiling  of  a  catalogue  so 
much  as  to  bring  into  seasonable  prominence  a 
race  of  plants  whose  beauty  and  grace  has  never 
been  gainsaid,  and  to  which  our  gardens  and 
greenhouses  owe  so  great  and  unredeemable  a 
debt. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
OORRESPON  DENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answreps.— rAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  brajich  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
*^  Ansivers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  eommunica- 
tio)is  shoidd  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
cf  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


these  plants  to-day,  and  particularly  in  the  direction  of 
selecting  the  purest  and  clearest  colours  and  intercrossing 
the  selected  plants.  There  is  much  red  colour  in  the 
"  blue  "  Primroses  to-day,  and  some  of  this  might  with 
advantage  be  wiped  out  or,  to  some  extent,  modiHed. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 
Flowers  for  button-holes  (Roman). 

For  providing  suitable  flowers  for  the  above  you 
cannot  do  better  than  purchase  a  few  Carnations 
and  Hybrid  Tea  Roses,  though  we  greatly  fear 
the  sum  you  name  will  not  go  verj-  far.  White 
and  red  Clove  and  Daffodil,  a  good  yellow,  are 
among  the  best  Carnations,  while  Uriah  Pike  is 
also  very  free-flowering.  Hon.  Edith  Gifibrd, 
Sunrise  and  W.  A.  Richardson  are  useful  Roses  for 
the  purpose  named,  and  in  addition  you  might 
like  to  grow  Sweet  Violets,  Violas,  Mignonette 
or  Pansies. 

Plants  for  a  lake  (E.  R.  B.).— You  may 
plant  the  following  Water  Lilies  in  your  lake  : 
Nymphaaas  gladstoniana  and  alba  candidissima, 
white  ;  Marliacea  carnea,  flesh-coloured  ;  Mar- 
liacea  rosea,  rose  ;  tuberosa  flavescens,  yellow  ; 
and  William  Falconer  and  William  Dooze,  red. 
In  addition  to  these  you  might  plant  the  pretty 
little  yellow-flowered  Limnanthemum  peltatum 
and  the  Cape  Pond-weed  (Aponogeton  dis- 
tachyon).  For  the  margins  you  could  plant  red 
and  yellow-stemmed  Willows,  Cornus  alba 
Spathii  and  Rubus  biflorus  on  the  bank,  with  a 
plant  of  Salix  babylonica  and  one  of  Taxodium 
distichum.  The  margins  partly  in  the  water 
might  be  planted  with  such  subjects  as  Yellow 
Flag,  Iris  Pseudaoorus,  I.  sibirica,  Nuphar  lutea, 
Typha  latifolia  and  T.  angustifolia.  Water  Dock, 
Water  Violet,  Bog  Bean,  Sweet  Flag,  Lythrum 
Salicaria,  the  Royal  Fern  (Osmunda  regalis)  and 
the  handsome  new  plant,  Senecio  Clivorum.  A 
pretty  effect  may  be  obtained  by  naturalising 
Mimulus  luteus  and  Primula  japonica  on  the 
banks. 

Blue  Ppimposes  (E.  M.  M.  ivcrj-ow).— There  are 
several  stocks  of  the  so-called  blue  Primroses,  but  those 
which  were  first  seen  were  obtained,  we  believe,  by  crossing 
the  bluest  of  the  self-coloured  Primroses  with  the  old- 
fashioned  Primula  elatior  CEerulea,  and  subsequently  by 
selection.    It  is  quite  possible  to  do  something  more  with 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Treatment  of  border  and  Mal- 
maison   Carnations    (H.  i7).  —  The 

border  Carnations  should  have  been  planted 
out  before  this,  and  then  when  the  flowers  are 
past  is  the  time  to  layer  them.  As  they  are  now 
in  the  conservatory  in  flower,  or  rapidly 
approaching  that  stage,  you  probably  would 
prefer  to  keep  them  there  till  the  flowers  are 
over.  Immediately  this  happens  they  should  be 
planted  out  in  a  thoroughly  dug  border  and  be 
well  supplied  with  water.  Then  layer  as  soon  as 
the  shoots  are  in  a  condition  to  do  so.  The 
Malmaisons  need  more  careful  treatment.  They 
should  be  layered  in  a  cold  frame.  Immediately 
the  flowers  are  over,  plant  the  Malmaisons  in 
a  frame,  using  a  compost  made  up  of  loam, 
leaf-mould  and  sand,  the  whole  being  passed 
through  a  sieve  with  a  half-inch  mesh.  Select 
for  layering  purposes  strong,  healthy  shoots,  and 
remove  therefrom  a  few  of  the  leaves  at  the  base 
where  the  tongue  is  to  be  made.  Then  layer  this 
in  the  prepared  soil  aforesaid  and  secure  in 
position  with  a  peg.  When  finished  give  the 
soil  a  watering  through  a  fine  rose  and  put  the 
lights  on  the  frame.  Plenty  of  air  must  be  left 
on  night  and  day,  the  object  of  the  lights  being 
to  prevent  the  soil  becoming  sodden  in  the  event 
of  heavy  rains.  Until  the  layers  root  they 
should  be  shaded  from  bright  sunshine.  In  a 
month  to  six  weeks  they  will  be  sufficiently 
rooted  to  pot  off  singly.  Any  well-shaped  plants 
may,  if  you  wish,  be  potted  on  for  another 
season  instead  of  propagating  from  them.  This 
should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are  past. 

Capnatlon  diseased  (Ouvn  Oakley).— The  plant 
is  suffering  from  the  stem  and  leaf  fungus  which  plays  so 
much  havoc  with  these  plants,  and  your  only  chance  of 
combating  such  a  disease  is  to  syringe  the  plants  once  a 
fortnight  or  three  weeks  with  sulphide  of  potassium  at  the 
rate  of  loz.  to  two  gallons  of  water,  rain-water  being 
preferred.  This  should  be  done  fairly  regularly  to  keep 
the  disease  at  bay,  a  light  spraying  to  wet  as  much  of  the 
plant  as  possible  being  the  best.  If  your  plants  are  all  as 
bad  as  the  one  you  send  for  our  inspection,  we  advise  you 
to  burn  them,  soil  and  all,  and  after  a  time  start  again  with 
healthy  plants. 

FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Vines  bleeding:  (W.  R.  So7nerset).— The 
bleeding  of  Vines  after  pruning  is  a  source 
of  much  trouble  and  anxiety  to  amateurs  and 
beginners  in  the  culture  of  Grapes.  The  chief 
cause  of  bleeding  is  due  to  late  pruning.  Had 
you  pruned  your  Vines  a  month  earlier,  bleeding 
most  likely  would  not  have  taken  place  ;  but  it 
often  happens  that  it  is  necessary  that  the 
Grapes  must  hang  on  the  Vines  until  the  end  of 
the  year,  and  in  that  case,  of  course,  early 
pruning  could  not  take  place.  Late  Vines,  in 
our  experience,  are  more  susceptible  to  bleeding 
than  early  ones,  and  a  Vine  which  bleeds  one 
year  generally  does  so  the  second  year  if  the 
conditions  are  the  same.  Instead  of  pruning 
such  Vines  late,  the  best  way  is  not  to  winter 
prune  them  at  all,  but  to  wait  until  the  Vine 
starts  into  growth,  and  then  disbud  all  the  buds 
on  the  spur,  excepting  the  necessary  one  at  the 
base.  As  soon  as  the  Vine  is  in  active  growth 
the  disbudded  spur  must  be  pruned  back  to  the 
basal  bud,  and  no  bleeding  will  then  take  place. 
To  stop  bleeding  by  mechanical  means  once  it 
has  started  is  difficult.  The  most  successful  way 
is  the  one  you  have  adopted,  namely,  encourag- 
ing early  growth  (to  absorb  the  sap)  by  applying 
a  higher  temperature.  The  best  remedy  for 
stopping  the  bleeding  we  have  found  to  be  is  to 
sear  up  the  cut  end  of  the  spur  with  a  hot  iron 
and  then  apply  the  styptic  or  sealing-wax. 

Vine  leaves  blotched  (T.  S.).— if  our  Vine  leaves 
are  perfectly  healthy ;  the  blotches  you  speak  of  are 
common  to  moat  Vine  foliage  of  that  age. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

"Watep  fpom  cesspool  (Elizabeth).  —  It  will 
depeiid  entirely  on  the  crop.  For  Roses,  Chrysanthe- 
mums and  many  strong-growing  plants  it  may  be  used 
with  advantage,  but  for  weaker-growing  subjects  and  for 
such  pot  plants  as  Cyclamen,  Cineraria,  Primula  and 
Calceolaria  it  should  be  made  very  weak,  even  if  used  at 
all.  Speaking  generally,  it  is  better  for  use  in  the 
shrubbery,  the  kitchen  garden  and  other  places  where 
free  root-action  quickly  impoverishes  the  soils. 

SeaViTeed  as  manupe  (B.  T.  i^.).— Fresh  seaweed 
is  of  about  the  same  value  as  farmyard  manure,  and  may 
be  used  iu  the  same  way  ;  but  care  must  be  taken  that  too 
much  is  not  used,  as  there  is  a  considerable  amount  of  salt 
which  may  not  be  altogether  beneficial,  though  a  small 
amount  may  be  of  indirect  benefit  to  the  plants.  Its 
constituents  become  available  only  as  they  decompose  in 
the  soil,  and  it  is  beet  to  thoroughly  incorporate  it  with 
the  soil  if  it  is  desired  that  it  shall  decay  quickly. 

Anthpacite  coal  verfna^  coke  fop  heating 
pupposes  (The  Skipper).— Some  years  ago  we  went 
into  this  question  very  closely,  with  the  result  that  the 
evidence  then  collected  was  strongly  in  faviiur  of  coke, 
the  strongest  evidence  coming  from  Mr.  Joseph  Rochford- 
Fuel,  of  course,  is  a  serious  item  in  his  gigantic  ))uslnes8. 
Of  course,  much  turns  on  the  price.  Why  not  make  a 
trial  with  one  or  two  of  your  own  boilers,  using  coke  for, 
say,  a  fortnight  and  then  anthracite  for  the  same  length 
of  time,  and  register  the  night  and  early  morning  tempera- 
tures during  the  whole  time  and  compare  temperatures 
and  cost  during  this  time?  The  sun  will  soon  have  such 
an  effect  on  the  day  temperature  that  it  will  scarcely  be 
worth  registering  them.  Should  you  do  this,  we  shall  be 
very  pleased  to  hear  the  result. 

Tile  dpalning  wet  soil  {T.  W.  JO.). —In  such  a 

neighbourliood  as  yours  it  should  not  be  at  all  difiicult  to 
obtain  old  Heather  or  Furze  or  small  brushwood,  and  as 
the  draining  tiles  are  laid  in  the  trenches,  to  pack  them 
close,  being  well  trodden  in  with  a  body  of  one  or  other 
of  these  woody  materials  several  inches  deep.  This  will 
keep  the  soil  porous  about  the  drains  for  many  years  and 
thus  prevent  the  clay  from  close-packing  the  tiles. 
Placing  broken  brick-rubble  or  coarse  stones  or  gravel  a 
few  inches  thick  would  also  answer,  but  we  should  prefer 
the  woody  matter  as  the  cheapest  and  most  etticacious. 
We  cannot  advise  you  on  paper  as  to  the  turning  of  the 
hard  pan  along  the  sides  of  the  ditch,  as  that  is  a  matter 
on  which  opinion  can  be  of  service  only  from  personal 
observation.  Economy  in  draining  is  materially  a  question 
of  the  fall  of  the  ground  and  free  outlet  for  the  water  into 
some  lower  receptacle. 

To  eleap  a  pond  of  slimy  w^eed  (Genem).— 
Water-fowl  would  make  no  appreciable  difference  to  the 
amount  of  weed  in  your  pond,  particularly  the  kind  sent. 
The  best  way  to  deal  with  it  is  to  calculate  the  volume  of 
water  and  use  copper  sulphate  at  the  rate  of  2ioz.  to 
10,00(1  gallons  of  water.  The  copper  sulphate  may  either 
be  dissolved  in  water  and  syringed  over  the  surface  of 
the  pond,  or  it  may  be  tied  in  a  piece  of  canvas 
and  dragged  through  the  water,  by  means  of  a  piece 
of  string,  backwards  and  forwards  until  it  is  all 
dissolved.  The  weed  will  be  found  to  be  killed  In  a 
few  days'  time.  It  is  quite  likely  that  the  application  will 
have  to  be  repeated  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  It  is 
needless  to  say  that  the  water  ought  not  to  be  used  for 
tender  plants,  such  as  Ferns,  Selaginellas  or  mosses,  for 
some  time  after  the  poisoning  has  taken  place.  Water 
Lilies  are  not  affected  if  the  poison  is  not  made  stronger 
than  recommended  above.  Should  the  pond  be  fed  by  a 
stream,  some  means  will  have  to  be  adopted  for  checking 
or  diverting  the  supply  for  a  few  days,  until  the  poison 
has  done  its  work. 

Renovating*    a    demopallsed    gapden 

(Newport).— It  ia  but  too  evident  that  the  only  course 
with  the  fruit  trees  in  your  recently  acquired  garden  will 
be  to  grub  them  out  and  destroy  them.  In  spite  of  your 
gardener's  opinion,  we  should  still  advise  trenching  the 
whole  of  the  ground  20  inches  deep,  paring  off  first  the 
surface  and  weeds,  burying  that  down  after  you  had  in  a 
preceding  trench  thrown  out  the  next  spit  of  10  inches  to 
1-2  inches  of  soil,  then  well  broken  up  the  bottom  soil,  no 
matter  what  it  may  be,  some  8  inches  or  0  inches  deeper 
with  a  fork.  When  the  top  or  surface  soil  and  weeds  are 
thrown  into  the  trench  in  front,  a  heav>' dusting  of  soot 
would  help  to  kill  much  of  the  insect-life  found  there. 
When  all  the  ground  has  been  so  treated,  a  dusting  of 
Vaporlte  or  Kilogrub  may  be  given  and  forked  in  ;  these 
will  doubtless  kill  off  any  ground  pests  that  remain,  as  they 
are  spoken  highly  of  by  those  using  them.  No  doubt  one 
of  the  most  efficient  soil  insecticides  is  gas-lime,  but  this 
is  very  bulky,  though  cheap.  This  should  be  applied  at  the 
rate  of  three-quarters  of  a  bushel  per  rod,  being  strewn 
evenly  over  the  ground  in  November,  allowed  to  lie  exposed 
for  a  month,  then  dug  iu.  For  such  a  soil  as  yours  we 
should  advise  applying  a  dressing  of  fish  guano  at  the  rate 
of  lOlb.  per  rod  area,  putting  it  on  in  March  and  at  once 
digging  it  in,  not,  of  course,  dressing  all  the  ground 
directly,  but  just  so  much  as  could  be  dug  in  in  a  day.  To 
plant  the  bulk  of  the  ground  with  a  strong-growing  Potato 
for  the  first  year  is  not  bad  advice,  as  it  would  thoMughly 
cleanse  the  soil  assuming  that  grubs  and  wirewormdid  the 
tubers  no  harm.  Wherever  you  propose  to  crop  with  Peas, 
Beans,  Caulifiowera  or  other  vegetables,  especially  coarse 
growers,  use  your  pig-manure  and  with  that,  if  you  can, 
soot  very  abundantly.  Leaf-soil  and  wood-ashes  are  both 
very  valuable  manures.  What  is  known  as  Native  Guano 
makes  a  capital  pasture  dressing  put  on  at  the  rate  of  lUlb. 
per  rod  area. 


GARDEN. 


=^?= 


-5^= 


m§£ 


No.  1957.- Vol.  LXXIII. 


May  22,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


forthoomino  flower 
Show     for    Our 

Readers 

*'  iDteoae  "  cultivation 
Notes  or  thb  Week 

OOBBEBPONBENOB 

The  Auricula  at  home 

KITOHEN  GABDEN 

t^Wjthes'a  Early  Gem 
French  Bean  . ,     . , 
New  Zealand  Spinach 
in  summer     . .     . . 
Fruit  Garden 
How   to  grow   fruit 
trees  in  pota  . . 
Rose  Garden 
Rose      Eynsford 

Beauty    263 

Rose      Hector 
Mackenzie 
Greenhouse 
Cineraria  flaveacens 
Notes  on  Orchids    . . 
Yucca    treculiana 
canaliculata  . .     . . 
Vanilia  aromatica  . . 
Coloured  Plate 
Begonia    Clibrana' 
Pink 


252 
262 


252 


263 


253 
263 


264 
261 


264 


254 


H'LOWER  Garden 
Climbing    plants    in 
the  outdoor  garden 
An    uncommon   bul- 
bous   plant    (Bro- 
disea  uniilora)       . .    266 
Sweet  Pea  chat       . .    265 

GAJIDENINS  FOR  BESINNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week 256 

Summer  bedding  for 
effect   in    a   small 

garden     266 

Increaaing  Primroaes 

and  Polyanthuses       267 
Staking   bedding-out 

plants      267 

THB  Town  Garden  ,.    258 
GABDENina  or  teb  week 
For  the   South   and 

South  Midlands   . .    258 

For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands  ..    253 

Editor's  Table      . .     . .    269 

Answers     to     Oorbb- 

spondents 

Flower  garden  . .  259 

Treea  and  shrubs     . .     200 

Greenhouse 260 

Miscellaneous  . .     . ,    261 


FORTHCOMING 
SHOW    FOR  OUR 


FLOWER 
READERS. 


1 


IliLUSTRATIONB. 

Mr.  James  Douglas,  V.M.H 261 

A  spray  of  the  new  Cineraria  flavescens 262 

Rose  Eynsford  Beauty 253 

Yucca  treculiana  canaliculata 254 

Begonia  Ctibrans' Pink Coloured  plate 

A  good  clump  of  Brodisea  unidora 256 


T  is  generally  acknowledged  that  one 
oannot  often  have  too  much  of  a  good 
thing,  and  that  the  show  held  last  year 
for  readers  of  The  Garden  was  a  good 
thing  all  those  who  were  present  warmly 
testified.  We  have  reason  to  believe  that 
the  decision  of  the  Proprietors  to  hold  a  similar 
exhibition  this  year  is  meeting  with  the  approval 
of  our  readers,  and  it  is  for  this  reason  that  we 
wish  now  to  emphasise  a  few  points  in  connexion 
with  the  show. 

In  the  first  place,  it  may  be  as  well  to  glance 
briefly  at  the  schedule,  which  has  been  fre- 
quently printed  among  the  advertisement  pages. 
It  will  be  seen  that  all  classes  and  both  large 
and  small  growers  have  been  considered,  and 
that  exhibits  of  flowers,  fruits  and  vegetables 
are  asked  for.  In  the  first-named  section  classes 
are  arranged  for  Sweet  Peas,  Roses,  Carnations, 
annuals  and  other  flowers,  all  of  which,  of 
course,  are  universally  grown.  Fruit,  owing  to 
the  date  of  the  show,  is  necessarily  somewhat 
limited,  but  any  that  can  reasonably  be  expected 
to  be  ready  in  any  quantity  at  the  time  is 
arranged  for,  and  all  who  saw  the  splendid 
collections  staged  last  year  will  agree  that  they 
were  of  very  high  quality.  Vegetables,  owing 
to  the  increased  interest  now  being  taken  in  their 


Society;  Owen  Thomas,  V.M.H.,  late  gardener 
to  Her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria ;  Walter  P. 
Wright,  horticultural  superintendent  under  the 
Kent  County  Council  ;  and  G.  Wythes,  late 
gardener  to  the  Duke  of  Northumberland. 


BDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  se7id  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  columns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  a/nd,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
loill  kindly  give  en^quirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  cormnunications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  a/nd  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
OARDEN,  accoTnpanied  by  na/me  and  address  of  the  sender. 


Summer  bedding  for  effect  in  a  small  garden      ....    266  

Increasing  Primroses  and  Polyanthuaea 267  1       ^u  i.    i.  j         j  ^-  ..• 

culture,  are  sure  to  be  good,  and  this  section  we 

regard  as  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  show. 

Another  point  that  we  wish  to  draw  special 
attention  to  is  the  fact  that  any  reader,  whether 
they  can  attend  the  show  or  not,  is  able  to 
compete,  as  we  undertake  to  stage  any  exhibits 
sent  in  time  to  reach  the  hall  by  the  hour  named 
in  the  schedule.  Of  course,  we  hope  as  many 
exhibitors  as  are  able  will  attend  and  arrange 
their  own  exhibits  ;  and  we  also  hope  that  those 
who  send  produce  will  pack  it  securely  in  stout 
boxes,  so  that  it  will  travel  well  and  arrive  in 
good  condition.  The  schedule  should  be  care- 
fully studied  and  the  rules  contained  therein  fully 
observed,  as  by  so  doing  exhibitors  will  avoid 
causing  confusion  and  delay. 

Needless  to  say,  we  were  very  pleased,  indeed , 
by  the  way  in  which  our  readers  responded  to 
the  invitation  to  exhibit  last  year,  and  we  hope 
our  readers  will  help  us  in  making  the  show  an 
even  greater  success.  The  judges  will  be  as 
follows  :  Messrs.  E.  Beckett,  V.  M.  H. ,  gardener 
to  Lord  Aldenham,  Elstree,  Herts  ;  D.  B.  Crane, 
a  well-known  amateur  horticulturist ;  W.  A. 
Cook,  gardener  to  Sir  Edmund  Loder,  Bart., 
Leonardslee,  Horsham,  Sussex ;  E.  H.  Jenkins, 
a  hardy  plant  specialist ;  A.  Dean  ;  H.  E. 
Molyneux,  late  treasurer  of  the  National  Rose 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  7iotes, 
intt  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contrHnitions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plOA/nly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
ihe  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  vnll  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  m>ay  ^wt  be  able  to  use, 
a/nd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  am  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
«otH  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptanee. 


O flees:  to,  Taaistoak  Street,  Covent  Omden,  W.C. 


"  INTENSE  "     CULTIVATION. 

Many  not  in  the  know  do  not  understand  the 
meaning  of  this  newly-got-up  fad,  although  no 
doubt  in  some  gardens,  perhaps  small  suburban 
ones,  they  are  requiring  something  more  to  turn 
their  attention  to,  especially  now  that  we  have 
many  ladies  striving  for  a  place  in  the  gardening 
world.  If  anyone  can  call  to  mind  the  suburbs  of 
London  twenty  or  twenty-five  years  ago,  the  ride 
from  Hammersmith  to  Kew  and  Richmond,  or  to 
Putney,  Barnes  and  Mortlake,  they  will  remem- 
ber the  acres  of  cloches  nurturing  tender  Lettuces 
and  Cauliflowers  during  the  spring ;  now, 
these  have  given  places  to  miles  of  villas,  and 
the  produce  grown  for  the  supply  is  further  out, 
and  instead  of  cloches  one  may  see  hundreds  of 
yards  of  frames  and  miles  upon  miles  of  glass 
houses  of  all  sizes,  where  early  vegetables  are 
grown.  Then,  again,  in  most  large  gardens  in- 
tense cultivation  has  been  carried  out  in  the 
spring  and,  I  may  say,  all  the  year  round,  for  in 
a  garden  there  is  really  no  slack  time. 

We  will  start  with  hot-beds  made  in  January 
for  Asparagus.  These  are  put  up  for  three  large 
lights  at  a  time.  Sow  Radishes  and  Lettuce 
with  the  Asparagus.  Pull  the  Radishes  and  when 
the  Asparagus  is  finished  take  out  the  roots  and 
pull  up  the  Lettuce  plants,  which  will  have 
developed  to  a  good  size.  As  soon  as  the  Asparagus 
roots  are  out,  place  them  in  the  frame  in  a  little 
more  fresh  soil,  and  prick  out  the  Lettuces  and 
sow  Carrots.  These,  when  properly  attended  to, 
are  over  by  May,  and  then  come  French  Beans 
and  Marrows  ready  to  put  into  them.  As  soon 
as  the  Beans  are  finished,  put  them  out,  wash 
the  frame  and  add  more  soil.  Then  plant  out 
Cucumbers  and  Melons.  These  will  carry  good 
crops,  and  when  finished  the  lights  can  be  used 
for  Violet  growing,  which  will  prove  profitable. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  what  can  be  done, 
what  is  done,  and  what  has  been  done  by  our 
forefathers  for  years.  We  have  cut  a  long  border 
of  Sutton's  Favourite  Cabbage,  and  already  I 
have  a  crop  of  Lettuce,  and  Carrots  and  Turnips 
are  coming  on.  Surely  this  is  quick  enough  work 
and  as  much  as  the  ground  can  be  made  to  do. 
Some  of  the  methods  that  have  been  spoken  of 
are  ridiculed  by  those  who  know,  more  especially 
in  some  of  the  daily  papers.  There  are  as  many 
smart  men  in  England  as  anywhere  in  the  wide 
world,  and  who  possess  a  keen  knowledge  of  the 
business  they  follow,  more  especially  in  our 
large  market  gardens. 

The  Press  and  the  public  generally  do  not 
realise  how  many  wonderful  nurseries  and 
market  gardens  there  are,  and  within  a  few  miles 
of  their  doors.  It  should  be  well  known  that  as 
growers  the  British  are  second  to  none  in  the 
world.  No  fruit  is  cultivated  anywhere  to 
equal  their  Grapes,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  ko., 
and  the  flavour  of  their  Apples,  Pears  and 
Strawberries.  W.  A.  Cook. 


250 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  May  22,  19C9. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

May  25. — Royal  Hortioultural  Society.  Great 
Spring  Show,  Inner  Temple  Gardens,  Thames 
Embankment,  12  noon  to  7  p.m.  Admis- 
sion 10s. 

May  26. — Great  Spring  Show,  Inner  Temple 
Gardens.  Private  view  to  Fellows  only, 
7  a.m.  to  noon;  public,  noon  to  7  p.m.  Admis- 
sion 23.  6d. 

May  27. — Great  Spring  Show,  Inner  Temple 
Gardens,  9  a.m.  to  6  p.m.     Admission  Is. 


Rose  shows  this  year.— The  dates  of 

exhibitions  of  the  National  Rose  Sooiety  and  of 
societies  affiliated  with  it,  as  far  as  they  are  at 
present  arranged,  are  as  follows :  Windsor, 
Saturday,  June  26  ;  Canterbury,  Tuesday,  June 
29 ;  Southampton,  Tuesday  and  Wednesday, 
June  29  and  ,30  ;  Dartford,  Wednesday,  June  30; 
Ealing,  Wednesday,  June  30  ;  Reading,  Wednes- 
day, June  30  ;  Walton-on-Thames,  Wednesday, 
June  30  ;  Royal  Botanic  Gardens  (National  Rose 
Society),  Friday,  July  2 ;  Sutton,  Saturday, 
July  3  ;  Maidstone,  Monday,  July  5  ;  Southend- 
on -Sea,  Tuesday  and  Wednesday,  July  6  and  7  ; 
Bath,  Wednesday  and  Thursday,  July  7  and  8  ; 
Croydon,  Wednesday,  July  7  ;  Epsom,  Wednes- 
day, July  7  ;  Farnham,  Wednesday,  July  7  ; 
Farningham,  Wednesday,  July  7  ;  Reigate, 
Wednesday,  July  7  ;  Eltham,  Thursday,  July  8; 
Finchley,  Thursday,  July  8  ;  Harrow,  Thursday, 
July  8;  Stour  Valley  (Westbere),  Thursday, 
July  8  ;  Edgware,  Saturday,  July  10  ;  Purley, 
Saturday,  July  10 ;  Baltic  (St.  Mary  Axe, 
London,  E.C.),  Monday,  July  12;  Gloucester, 
Tuesday,  July  13  ;  Saltaire,  Tuesday,  July  13 ; 
Formby,  Wednesday,  July  14  ;  Luton  (National 
Rose  Society),  Wednesday,  July  14 ;  Woodbridge, 
Wednesday,  July  14  ;  Malvern,  Thursday,  July 
15  ;  Potter's  Bar,  Thursday,  .July  15  ;  Ulverston, 
Friday,  July  16 ;  Manchester,  Wednesday,  July 
21  ;  Trowbridge,  Wednesday,  July  21  ;  Thornton 
Heath,  Monday,  August  2 ;  and  Westminster 
(National  Rose  Society),  Royal  Horticultural 
Hall,  Thursday,  September  16. 
MP.    H.   D.  Phillips's   exhibit    of 

DafTodilS. — We  have  again  to  welcome  a  new 
recruit  to  the  ranks  of  the  Daffodil  traders.  Mr. 
H.  D.  Phillips  of  Olton  staged  a  beautiful  col- 
lection of  some  of  the  choicer  Narcissi  at  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meeting  on  May  4 
and  gained  the  highest  award  of  the  day,  namely, 
a  silver  Flora  medal.  There  must  be  something 
in  the  air  of  Warwickshire  which  genders  a  love 
of  Daffodils.  We  remember  a  beautiful  King 
Alfred  of  Mr.  Phillips  at  Birmingham  two  or 
three  years  ago  which  won  the  premier  prize  for  a 
yellow  long  trumpet,  so  we  were  not  surprised  to 
see  the  evidences  of  good  culture  that  were  notice- 
able on  his  stand  the  other  week.  Seville,  which 
was  the  flower  in  the  collection,  has  been  included 
among  the  varieties  mentioned  by  Mr.  Jacob  in 
his  "Daffodil  Notes."  It  is  a  glorious  bit  of  rich 
colour  and  the  shape  of  the  flat  cup  is  most 
striking.  Peveril  is  a  pretty  little  flower  with 
a  flat  red  cup  and  a  white  reflexed  perianth. 
Rosella  has  a  pale  yellow  perianth  with  almond- 
shaped  overlapping  segments,  and  a  rather  large 
pale  orange  cup.  Cavalier  is  a  pretty  flower  with 
a  oup  of  orange,  margined  with  a  broad  band  of 
red,  and  a  perianth  that  recurves  and  reflexes. 
There  were  excellent  specimens  of  Lady  Margaret 
Boscawen,  Horace,  Glitter,  Gloria  Mundi,  &o. 
The  whole  made  a  most  creditable  first  exhibit, 
and  as  we  know  how  enthusiastic  Mr.  Phillips 
is,  we  feel  sure  we  shall  see  even  better  things 
■  in  1910. 

An  intepestingr  method  of  pemov- 

ing  trees. — An  interesting  experiment  in  the 
grubbing  of  trees  has  recently  been  successfully 
carried  out  on  the  estate  of  Mr.  R.  Sankey,  of 
flower-pot  fame,  at  Bulwell,  Nottinghamshire. 
A  plantation  of  seven  acres  was  dealt  with,  Mr. 


Sankey  having  decided  to  cultivate  the  land. 
The  soil  at  the  foot  of  each  tree  was  loosened,  a 
chain  then  placed  round  the  trunk  and  a  seven- 
horse-power  traction  engine  then  hauled  it  out 
by  its  roots. 

Danyaz  bacillus.— The  Lister  Institute 
of  Preventive  Medicine  has  reported  that, 
although  this  bacillus  presents  the  closest  resem- 
blance to  organisms  which  have  been  responsible 
for  outbreaks  of  food  poisoning,  it  is  entirely 
different  from  the  bacillus  which  occasions  typhoid 
fever.  The  suspicion,  therefore,  which  has  arisen 
in  some  places  that  outbreaks  of  typhoid  fever 
are  due  to  the  virus  is  without  foundation.  It  is 
not,  on  the  other  hand,  proven  that  the  Danysz 
bacillus,  if  introduced  into  the  alimentary  canal, 
would  be  harmless  to  man.  A  few  instances  have 
been  recorded  which  have  led  to  the  suspicion 
that  the  employment  of  this  and  similiar  viruses 
has  been  responsible  for  small  outbreaks  of  acute 
and  even  fatal  diarrhtea  in  man,  but  the  evidence 
has  not  conclusively  established  the  viruses  as 
the  causative  factor. 

National  Chpysanthemum 
Society. — We  have  received  a  copy  of  the 
schedule  of  the  above  society  for  the  present 
year  and  note  several  important  alterations.  The 
grand  autumn  exhibition  is  to  be  held  at  the 
Crystal  Palace  on  November  3,  4  and  5. 
The  prize  list  has  been  considerably  increased 
and  the  consideration  money  due  from  the  Crystal 
Palace  is  personally  guaranteed  by  the  Receiver. 
A  conference  on  Chrysanthemums  will  be  held 
at  Essex  Hall,  Essex  Street,  Strand,  W.C. ,  on 
Wednesday,  October  6,  at  3  p.m.,  when  papers 
will  be  read  on  various  aspects  of  Chrysanthemum 
culture  and  discussions  will  be  invited.  The 
floral  eommittee  will  meet  at  Essex  Hall  on  the 
following  dates :  September  20,  October  6, 
October  25,  November  3,  November  15,  Decem- 
ber 1  and  December  13.  The  secretary  (Mr. 
R.  A.  Witty)  wishes  readers  to  note  that 
his  address  is  now  72,  Savernake  Road,  Gospel 
Oak,  London,  N.W. 

The  Oapdeneps'  Royal  Benevo- 
lent Institution, — A  pleasant  evening  was 
spent  on  Wednesday  in  last  week  in  the  Cripple- 
gate  Theatre,  and  the  occasion  was  a  performance 
of  Mr.  Edward  Sherwood's  pretty  play,  "  In 
Cyderland,"  in  aid  of  the  funds  of  the  Gardeners' 
Royal  Benevolent  Institution.  This  is  not  the 
first  occasion  we  have  had  the  pleasure  of  being 
present  at  a  performance  of  this  play  to  help 
some  charitable  work  ;  but  we  have  never  seen  the 
theatre  better  flUed  than  on  this  occasion,  a  sign 
that  the  fund  will  benefit  materially  from  Mr. 
Sherwood's  efforts.  As  mentioned  in  the  pro- 
gramme, the  Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent 
Institution  has  been  established  seventy  years, 
and  has  during  that  period  distributed  upwards 
of  £122,000  in  relief  to  gardeners,  market 
gardeners,  growers,  nurserymen,  florists  and 
their  widows.  Yearly  allowances  are  now  given 
to  138  men  and  101  widows  at  an  annual  cost  of 
over  £4,000.  Grants  of  money  are  given  to 
candidates  awaiting  aid,  of  whom  there  are 
53,  several  incurably  paralysed  and  others  almost 
blind.  Immediate  assistance  is  also  given  from 
a  fund  called  "  The  Good  Samaritan"  in  urgent 
cases  of  distress  and  need.  Many  well-known 
horticulturists  and  their  friends  were  present. 
We  were  delighted  to  see  Mr.  N.  Sherwood,  who 
has  given  so  freely  to  this  and  other  charities, 
and  his  two  sons,  and  among  others  were  Mr. 
H.  J.  Veitch  (the  treasurer,  to  whom  the 
institution  owes  so  much),  Mrs.  Veitch,  Mr. 
George  Ingram  (the  secretary)  and  Mrs.  Ingram. 
No  institution,  we  are  convinced,  is  supported 
more  enthusiastically  and  economically  worked 
than  this,  and  a  crowded  audience  in  a  somewhat 
inconvenient  centre  testified  to  the  real  love  all 
who  are  officers  take  in  its  welfare.  The  perform- 
ance was  very  bright,  and  all  the  performers, 
most  of  whom  are  employt'S  of  Mr.  Sherwood 
(Messrs.  Hurst  and  Son),  entered  heartily  into 
the   spirit  of    the  play.      The    music    is    most 


tuneful,  and  some  of  the  airs  would  be  whistled 
in  the  streets  if  they  were  heard  in  one  of 
the  great  London  theatres.  To  criticise 
severely  would  be  unfair,  as  the  performers  were 
amateurs  ;  but  this  one  can  say,  the  music  was 
perfectly  rendered  by  the  orchestra  of  the  Hurst 
and  Son  Musical  Sooiety,  under  the  conductor- 
ship  of  Mr.  Edward  Sherwood.  The  play  ha» 
been  written  by  Mr.  R.  Carey  Tucker.  Mr. 
Washington,  who  played  capitally,  is  the  hon. 
secretary,  and  Mr.  F.  W.  Foster,  stage  manager. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(llie  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


Sweet  Pea  stem  spopts.— I  hav& 
often  come  across  the  statement  that  Sweet  Peas 
never  make  a  sport — that  is  to  say,  never  pro- 
duce two  different  blooms  on  one  stalk.  As  I  have 
never  seen  this  contradicted,  I  think  it  may 
interest  some  of  your  readers  to  know  that  I  have 
this  phenomenon  now  in  evidence  in  my  garden 
at  T(51emly.  I  began  last  year  to  try  to  intro- 
duce the  waved  standard  into  the  T61emly  (win- 
ter flowering)  strain  of  Sweet  Peas,  using  for 
hybridising  purposes  the  Sweet  Pea  Pride  of 
St.  Albans.  The  desired  result  has,  in  accord- 
ance with  Mendel's  law,  not  been  attained  this 
year,  though  I  may  mention  incidentally  that  the 
new  Pea,  even  in  this  first  generation,  is  about 
four  weeks  in  advance  of  its  English  parent ;  but 
the  curiousfaet  is  that,  whereas  the  great  majority 
of  the  young  plants  have  come  up  mauve  in  colour 
like  the  T^lemly  parent,  but  with  a  waved 
standard,  and  only  two  or  three  take  after  the 
Pride  of  St.  Albans,  but  with  a  plain  standard, 
one  single  plant  has  distinguished  itself  by  pro- 
ducing its  two  first  flowers  after  the  English 
type,  and  all  the  succeeding  flowers  after  the 
T^lemly.  I  have  shown  the  plant  to  several 
people  that  there  may  be  no  doubt  about  the  fact, 
if  it  is  indeed  an  unusual  one,  and  I  enclose  a 
blossom  of  each  to  show  you  the  difference  be- 
tween them. —  Edvvyn  Ark  weight,  Telemly, 
Alger-Mustapha,  Algeria.  [Unfortunately,  the 
flowers  were  too  much  crushed  and  discoloured  to 
enable  us  to  say  much  about  them,  but  that  they 
were  different  there  was  ample  evidence. — En.J 
Manupes  fop  alpine  plants.  — So 
far  I  have  only  directly  applied  manures  to 
alpine  and  rock  plants  in  small  quantities,  and 
the  measure  of  success  obtained  justifies  further 
experiment.  Like  other  forms  of  vegetation,  thei 
growth  of  alpines  is  easily  stimulated  by  either 
natural  or  artificial  manures,  a  fact  readily 
demonstrated  by  growing  them  in  pots.  In 
former  years  I  used  to  supplement  the  spring 
top-dressing  by  further  applications  of  liquid 
manure  in  summer ;  but  in  many  cases  the 
increased  luxuriance  was  obtained  at  the  expense 
of  flowers,  so  that  eventually  I  discontinued  this 
practice,  and,  unless  for  special  reasons,  I  now 
confine  direct  manuring  to  that  contained  in  the 
spring  top-dressing.  I  have  used  Veitch's 
(Chelsea)  and  Thomson's  Vine  Manure,  both 
proprietary  articles  thoroughly  representative 
of  complete  artificial  manures.  Sulphate  of 
ammonia  and  superphosphate  I  have  also  spar- 
ingly employed  in  liquid  form  ;  the  former  gives 
excellent  results  with  tufted  plants  like  Aubrietia 
and  alpine  Phloxes,  and  particularly  to  those 
where  the  soil  is  very  poor.  I  still  consider  this 
a  first-class  manure  for  assisting  the  growth  o{ 
alpines  in  dry  walls  and  similar  positions. 
Superphosphate  I  only  apply  to  limestone  sub- 
jects, and,  while  the  results  are  not  so  apparent, 
on  the  whole  it  favours  freer  flowering  and  is 
never  detrimental  to  the  ripening  of  the  shoots. 
Complete  artificial  manures  give  the  most  marked 
results  ;  the  manure  is  mixed  with  old  potting 
soil  and  worked  into  the  crowns  during  February 
and  March.  There  is  one  aspect  of  this  question 
which  appears  overlooked,  namely,  the  influence 
of  limestone  or  chalk  as  an  essential  element  in 


May  22,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


251 


the  soil.  We  are  bound  at  times  to  use  improvised 
substitutes,  but  if  amateurs  would  prooure  chalk 
as  freely  as  they  buy  other  materials  in  forming 
gardens,  the  gain  in  future  years  would  far 
outweigh  the  initial  expense.  Alpines  on  a 
ohalk  soil  only  require  a  modicum  of  manure  at 
any  time,  as  they  invariably  pass  through  the 
winter  full  of  vigour,  and  herein  appears  to  be 
the  essence  of  the  question.  Alpines,  as  your 
esteemed  correspondents  have  pointed  out  {see 
pages  190  and  224),  are  extremely  susceptible  to 
stimulants ;  the  least  overdose  will  carry  the 
vegetative  growth  too  late  for  perfect  ripening 
of  the  shoots.  Where  chalk  is  abundant  in  the 
soil  there  exists  a  natural  storehouse  of  food,  and 
in  such  form  as  is  most  suited  to  the  requirements 
of  the  great  majority  of  alpines  ;  and  it  is  upon 
the  successful  application  of  the  principle  of 
manuring  that  their  flowering  ultimately  depends. 
On  this  soil,  as  will  be  readily  understood, 
granitic  and  peat-loving  subjects  do  not  find  it  an 
ideal  home ;  consequently  the  ground  is  formed 
of  imported  soil  to  meet  their  require- 
ments. Here  it  is  that  decrepit  plants 
have  awakened  to  renewed  life  and 
vigour,  and  I  attribute  this  result  to 
information  obtained  from  one  of  our 
largest  commercial  shrub-growers.  The 
advice  acted  upon  was  to  take  the  semi- 
liquid  manure  deposited  by  cattle  when 
first  turned  into  the  meadows  in  spring  ; 
this  is  collected  and  mixed  with  water 
and  supplied  to  the  plants  at  intervals 
of  a  fortnight  up  to  July.  Primulas, 
Shortias,  Meconopsis,  Daphnes  and  Rho- 
dodendrons are  examples  from  a  varied 
collection  which  greatly  benefit  from  this 
treatment. — Thomas  Smith,  Walmsgate 
Gardens. 

Tendep  plants  and  the 
winter. — After  so  hard  a  winter  I 
think  it  would  be  interesting  if  some  of 
your  correspondents  would  let  us  know 
how  their  tender  plants  have  stood  the 
frost.  Here  we  have  been  very  fortu- 
nate. I  was  abroad,  but  I  hear  we  had 
22°  of  frost  and  very  prolonged  hard 
weather.  I  only  seem  to  have  lost 
Pittosporum  Tobira,  Ceanothus  divari- 
oatus  and  Buddleia  asiatioa ;  while  on  the 
wall  may  be  noted  Callistemon,  Plum- 
bago oapensis  and  Loropetalum  ohinense 
are  out  down,  but  seem  to  have  life  in 
them.  Benthamia  fragifera,  Emboth- 
rium  cocoineum,  Desfontainea  spinosa, 
Pittosporum  undulatum,  Mitraria  cooci- 
nea,  Nandina  domestica.  Magnolia 
Campbellii  and  Dicksonia  antarctica, 
and  on  the  wall  Poinciana  Gilliesii, 
Solanum  jasminoides  and  Mandevilla 
suaveolens  seem  quite  uninjured,  so  I 
think  we  may  congratulate  ourselves. 
I  hardly  dared  hope  the  Dioksonias 
would  escape.  — Cranbrook,  Kent. 

Weeds  on  ponds.— Can  you  tell 
me  whether  it  is  possible  to  destroy  the 
common  green  slimy  weed  that  collects  on 
still  ponds  by  the  addition  of  copper  sulphate  or 
any  other  substance,  but  at  the  same  time  not 
injuring  such  water  plants  as  the  hybrid  Nym- 
phjeas  ?    What  is  the  amount  per  gallon  that 
must  be  applied  ? — G.  Lissant  Cox,  Birkenhead. 

Degenepation  In  Pplmroses.  —  I 
send  you  a  few  stems  of  my  Polyanthus 
Primroses  and  hope  they  will  reach  you  in  a 
fairly  fresh  state.  I  do  not  think  the  race  is 
quite  80  degenerate  as  "A.  D."  would  have  us 
believe.  Why  should  he  be  so  much  surprised 
and  amused  at  my  giving  the  credit  to  anyone 
for  producing  the  tine  strain  of  Polyanthus 
Primroses  which  we  have  to-day  'i  He  evidently 
has  been  working  to  keep  the  Polyanthus  and 
Primrose  distinct,  whereas  others  have  been 
encouraging  the  valuable  cross-bred  plants  which 
are  so  vigorous  and  showy  in  the  garden.  Does 
"A.  D."  want  us  to  believe  that  the  alpine 
Auricula  is  not  a  hardy  plant  2     Surely  not !     I 


admit  the  flowers  at  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  meeting  on  the  20th  ult.  were  not  fair 
representatives  of  their  race,  and  although  I  took 
first  for  the  two  Polyanthus  classes  in  which  I 
exhibited,  I,  like  everyone  else,  would  have 
much  preferred  to  show  a  fortnight  later,  but  I 
understand  it  was  impossible  to  postpone  the 
show.  I  was  too  young  in  1871  to  take  much 
note  of  Polyanthuses,  or  anything  else  for  that 
matter;  but  if  "A.  D."  will  send  you  a  few  of 
his  flowers,  if  he  has  any  of  the  type  he  grew 
thirty  years  ago,  it  would  be  interesting  to 
compare  them  with  the  ones  I  send,  and  you 
might  let  readers  know  what  you  think  of  them.  — 
W.  A.  Watts.  [The  flowers  sent  by  Mr.  Watts 
were  very  beautiful. — Ed.] 


THE  AURICULA.  AT  HOME. 

Whek  the  home  is  at  Great  Bookham,  Surrey, 
the  owner  that  veteran  grower  and  florist,  Mr. 


MR.    JAMBS  DOUGLAS,   V.M.H. 

James  Douglas,  V.M.H.,  and  the  stock  of 
plants  runs  to  some  15,000,  it  is  no  exaggera- 
tion to  say  that  under  such  conditions  the 
Auricula  is  at  home.  But  Mr.  Douglas  is  some- 
thing more  than  a  grower.  Apart  from  the  fact 
that  he  has  all  possible  knowledge  concerning  the 
Auricula  at  his  fingers'  ends,  he  is  a  famous  as 
well  as  a  formidable  exhibitor,  and  rarely  is  it  his 
lot  to  play  second  fiddle  to  any  other  cultivator. 
When  the  annual  show  of  the  National  Auricula 
Society  was  held  in  London  recently,  it  was  the 
Great  Bookham  exhibits  which  kept  it  from 
being  an  absolute  failure. 

Besides  doing  so  much  as  a  competitor, 
Mr.  Douglas  has  been  a  generous  supporter 
of  the  society  and  its  exhibitions,  and  what 
with  medals,  subscriptions  and  most  liberal 
gifts  of  packets  of  Auricula  seeds  to  all  members 
who  may  ask  for  them,  few  men  have  done  more 
to  keep  alive   interest   in   the   Auricula.      We 


found  his  very  fine  collection,  in  huge  numbers 
in  houses  at  Great  Bookham,  all  in  glorious 
bloom,  and  in  frames  outside  were  further  great 
numbers,  from  which  selections  for  the  show 
house  were  made  as  they  came  into  flower.  Just 
then  (it  was  April  30)  much  labour  was  being 
expended  in  preparing  a  very  fine  collection 
for  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meeting  on 
May  4,  where  it  would  assuredly  be  one  of  the 
chief  attractions  of  the  show,  for  how  wonderfully 
beautiful  these  children  of  Primula  Auricula 
and  P.  pubescens  are,  and  how  they  compel 
notice ! 

The  old  florists  still  worship  the  "shows," 
with  their  white,  grey  and  green  edges,  or  those 
beautiful  selfs  having  red,  maroon  or  bright 
yellow  grounds.  To  thoroughly  appreciate  these 
flowers  it  is  needful  that  their  points  be  under- 
stood. So  much  is  essential,  indeed,  in  relation 
to  any  florists'  flower,  even  to  the  more  uni- 
versally grown  Daffodil  or  Sweet  Pea.  Remem- 
bering that  all  named  Auriculas  can  be  increased 
or  propagated  only  by  means  of  side 
shoots  or  offsets,  it  came  as  a  matter  of 
surprise  to  learn  that  really  good  varie- 
ties, in  strong  plants  two  years  old 
(alpines  especially),  could  be  offered  so 
cheaply  and,  still  further,  that  equally 
strong  seedling  alpines  could  be  sold 
much  cheaper. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  Auri- 
culas well  eared  for  are  so  hardy 
and  so  enduring,  as  they  will  endure 
for  generations,  and  that  they  admit 
of  regular  increase,  it  is  surprising 
that  amateur  lovers  and  growers  of  them 
are  not  found  by  tens  of  thousands.  But 
if  all  do  not  care  for  the  powdered  edged 
or  self  "shows,"  how  can  anyone  but  stop 
to  admire  and  delight  in  the  wondrously 
beautiful  alpines  ?  If  amateurs  will  grow 
Auriculas,  let  them  start  with  these  by 
all  means.  They  do  well  grown  as  border 
plants,  but  some  of  the  best  should 
always  be  grown  in  pots  to  flower  under 
glass,  as  it  is  in  April  as  a  rule  they 
are  so  lovely.  No  matter  whether  they 
have  gold  centres,  with  dense  dark 
margins,  or  white  or  cream  centres,  with 
mauve,  blue  or  other  paler  hues,  all  are 
so  beautiful  that  they  literally  entrance 
and  delight.  None  want  large  pots ; 
Auriculas  rather  do  best  somewhat  root- 
bound. 

They    need    no     specially    rich    soil. 
Two-thirds  good  old  turfy  loam,  the  other 
third  of  old  hot-bed  manure,  leaf-soil  and 
sharp  white  sand,  with  a  light  sprinkling 
of  bone-flour  well  mixed,  makes  a  first- 
class    compost.      A     fine     selection    of 
"  shows"  are  :  Green-edged,  Abb^  Liezt, 
Abraham  Barker,  Dr.  Hardy,  Mrs.  Hen- 
wood,   Rev.   F.  D.   Horner  and  Shirley 
Hibberd ;    grey-edged,   Colonel   Champ- 
neys,  George  Rudd,  George  Lightbody, 
Marmion    and   Olympus ;     white-edged. 
Acme,     Conservative,     Heather      Bell, 
Mrs.      Dodwell    and     Vesta ;     and     of     selfs, 
Andrew    Miller,    maroon ;     Favourite,    violet ; 
Mikado,   dark  ;   Heroine,   maroon  ;   Ruby,  red  ; 
and  Mrs.  Phillips,  dark    maroon.      Very  beau- 
tiful alpines  are  Argus,    Rosy  Morn,   Phyllis, 
Mrs.  J.  Douglas,  Dean  Hole,  Teviotdale,  Flora 
Mclvor,  Ettrick,  Duke  of  York,  Blue  Bell,  The 
Bride  and  Firefly. 

In  the  open  borders  were  great  quantities  of 
garden  Primroses  and  Polyanthuses  and  many 
choice  Daffodils.  These  bulbs  seem  to  thrive 
splendidly  at  Great  Bookham.  Very  soon  the 
huge  collection  of  summer  Carnations  will  be 
coming  into  bloom.  A  few  weeks  and  the  show 
made  in  the  houses  will  be  a  remarkable  one. 
Mr.  Douglas  has  one  of  the  finest  collections  of 
these  beautiful  flowers  in  the  kingdom,  and  Great 
Bookham  is  a  veritable  Mecca  for  Carnation 
pilgrims  in  July.  Carnations,  Picotees  and  Pinks 
are  indeed  in  aljundanoe 


252 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  22,  1909. 


THE    KITCHEN 

WYTHES'S 


GARDEN. 


EARLY  GEM  FRENCH 
BEAN. 

GROWERS  whose  gardening  experi- 
ence extends  over  many  years 
have  seen  many  fine  kinds  put 
on  the  market,  and  in  the 
course  of  many  years'  experience 
I  have  tried  many  of  them, 
but   have    found    none    to    equal    this   variety. 


Last  season  I  sowed 
the  second  week  in 
May  in  an  open  position 
in  a  warm  sandy  soil. 
The  weather  being  dry 
and  hot,  these  made 
rapid  growth,  and  I 
gathered  freely  from  them 
in  two  calendar  months 
from  the  time  of  sowing. 
Another  merit  they  have 
is  that  they  do  not  make 
a  lot  of  tall,  coarse 
leafage.  It  is  only  a  few 
inches  above  the  pods, 
and  this  admits  of  their 
being  grown  close 
together,  both  in  and 
between  the  rows. 
Sometimes  one  is  apt  to 
be  doubtful  regarding 
the  cropping  powers  when 
looking  at  an  illustration, 
but  the  one  in  Messrs. 
Veitoh's  catalogue  is 
quite  faithful.  Last  year 
the  demand  was  large 
just  as  these  came  into 
use,  being  some  time 
before  Scarlet  Runners. 
This  should  induce  those 
growing  for  market  to 
try  this  kind,  as  it  is 
the  early  crops  that  pay 
best.  Added  to  this,  by 
coming  oflf  the  ground  so 
early  it  affords  room  for 
winter  crops.  Nothing 
can  be  finer  than  this 
kind  to  plant  atj  the  foot 
of  warm  walls  to  come  in 
early,  as  they  take  up  so 
little  space,  and  in  a 
position  where  the  frosts 
out  up  things  early  these 
can  be  covered  up  easily, 
and  so  the  crop  may  be 
extended  several  weeks 
into  the  autumn. 

J.  Crook. 


several      long     rows 


/\   /\ 


gi  ving  much  room  (2  feet  to  3  feet  apart),  as  the 
plant  branches  out  very  much  in  hot  seasons 
with  plenty  of  moisture.  To  get  a  supply  in 
July  and  August,  the  two  months  in  which  the 
ordinary  Spinach  often  fails,  seed  sown  in  May 
in  well-prepared  soil  in  rows  2  feet  apart,  and 
the  plants  thinned  to  18  inches  in  the  row,  will 
give  a  supply  at  the  time  named  ;  indeed,  I  have 
sown  in  June  for  an  August  crop,  as  the  plant 
makes  rapid  growth  if  given  ample  moisture  and 
gives  a  lot  of  good  cutting  material  till  late  in 
the  season.  The  soil  must  be  rich  and  the  plant 
given  ample  room  :   but  where  large  quantities 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


'mr\. 


NEW  ZEALAND 
SPINACH  IN 
SUMMER. 

At  this  season  of  the 
year,  when  we  have  a 
wealth  of  good  green 
Spinach,  the  above 
variety  is  not  required ; 
but  in  hot  summers  the 
is    one    of    the    first    crops 


THE    NEW 


CINERARIA    FLAVESCENS. 


{^^atural  sUe.) 


ordinary    Spinach 
to    fail    in     spite 


of  every  attention  to  sowing  and  supplying 
moisture,  and  the  value  of  the  New  Zealand 
should  not  be  overlooked.     Those  who  have  to 


are  required,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  cut  the 
growths  regularly,  and  the  plant  soon  makes  new 
growths.  The  more  the  tender  young  shoots 
are  picked,  the  more  quickly  do  others  grow, 
and   the  plants  continue   to    provide    excellent 


supply  Spinach  daily  know  the  difficulties,  and  i  gatherings  until  frost  kills  them.  The  plants 
in  other  oases  I  have  always  found  that  a  good  are  really  not  particular  as  to  soil,  a  point  that 
dish  of  this  vegetable  was  welcome,  as  it  gave  will  commend  this  Spinach  to  many.  The 
variety,  and  we  do  not  always  give  enough  flavour,  although  not  quite  so  good  as  that  of 
attention  to  this  point.  New  Zealand  Spinach  I  ordinary  Spinach,  is,  however,  very  good,  and 
is  easily  cultivated.  For  a  first  supply  I  have  '  the  vegetable  can  be  regarded  as  a  decidedly 
sown  a  few  seeds  in  frames  in  3-inch  pots,  and  ,  wholesome  one  for  summer  use.  It  is  a  pleasure 
when  well  above  the  soil  thinned  to  the  largest,  '  to  know  how  much  vegetables  are  coming  into 
planting  out  on  a  rich  border  late  in  May  and  i  favour.  G.  Wtthes. 


HOW   TO    GROW    FRUIT    TREES    IN 

POTS. 

(Continued  Jrom   page    !.'iii.) 

Insects. 

THESE,  of  course,  give  trouble,  as  they 
do  under  other   systems  of  culture  ; 
but,  all  things  considered,  I  would 
much  prefer  to  have  to  deal  with  pot 
trees,  for  the  simple  reason  that  it  is 
possible  to  use  the  syringe  in  all  direc- 
tions. In  the  case  of  green  fly  we  make  it  an  invari- 
able practice  to  fumigate  or  otherwise  vaporise 
with  one  of  the  nicotine  compounds,  the  use  of 
which  IS  perfectly  safe  just  before  the  first  flowers 
expand.     Prior  to  that,  however,  and  when  the 
house  IS  first  closed,  we  give  the  first  application. 
These  applications  will  keep  the  fly  in  abeyance 
for  a  long  time,  and  if  any  are  seen  later  on 
another  turn  will  eradicate  them.     There  is  no 
reason      or      excuse     for 
attacks  of  fly  to  do  any 
injury  with  the  present- 
day    preventives.       This 
same   remedy  will  exter- 
minate  the   small   cater- 
pillars that  often   infest 
both  the  Cherry  and  the 
Plum,  as  well  as  the  Pear 
and  Apple,  when  grown 
under  glass.     The  injury 
done  to  these  fruits  often 
occurs  before  one  is  aware 
of    it  or    even    of    their 
existence.    For  red  spider 
the    best  remedy  is  the 
syringe  and  a  sharp  pair 
of  eyes.    If,  however,  the 
case  is  a  bad  one,  some 
sulphur  mixed  with   the 
water  had    better    be 
applied  with  the  syringe. 

After-Trbatmbnt  when 
Placed  Outside. 
When  the  crop  is 
gathered,  in  the  case  of 
forced  trees  the  house  is 
freely  ventilated  and  the  syringe  is  as  freely 
plied,  in  order  to  harden  the  trees  and  to 
cleanse  them  from  any  insect  pests.  In  a 
week  or  ten  days  the  trees  will  be  fit  to 
go  outside,  the  house  being  well  cleansed 
afterwards  and  the  second  lot  of  trees  for 
autumn  fruiting  brought  from  where  they  may 
have  been  kept — crowded  together  possibly 
in  an  improvised  shelter  but  with  their  fruits 
set.  The  trees  that  have  fruited  can  take  their 
place  or  be  plunged  entirely  in  the  open. 
Plunging  is  strongly  urged,  as  it  saves  watering 
to  a  considerable  extent,  and  not  only  that,  but 
the  trees  will  root  freely  into  the  plunging 
material,  both  from  the  surface  roots  that  have 
taken  hold  upon  the  top-dressing,  and  from  the 
bottoms  of  the  pots  oftentimes.  A  good  plung- 
ing medium  is  ashes  that  have  been  screened 
after  coming  from  the  stokehole.  Some,  at  any 
rate,  should  be  used  at  the  base  of  the  pots  to 
prevent  worms  from  entering.  We  usually 
plunge  over  the  rims  of  the  pots  so  that  no  pot 
is  visible.  When  lifted  for  potting  in  the 
autumn,  the  amount  of  roots  that  have  been 
made  will  be  somewhat  surprising.  The  hose  is 
used  out  of  doors  for  watering  and  for  giving  a 
good  wetting  overhead  in  hot  weather.  In 
plunging,  we  usually  prefer  to  give  the  Cherries 
a  somewhat  shady  position,  keeping  the  Peaches 
and  Nectarines  in  the  open,  also  the  Plums.  Care 
must  be  taken  that  the  trees  do  not  suffer  for 
want  of  water,  otherwise  the  foliage  will  suffer  too. 
With  a  little  experience,  however,  the  exact  state 
of  the  trees  in  this  respect  can  be  gauged  fairly 
well.  James  Hudson,  V.M.H. 

(To  be  continued.) 


May  22,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


253 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN 


KOSE    EYNSFORD    BEAUTY. 

THIS  lovely  single  Rose  is  a  dwarf  sport 
from  the  beautiful  American  Pillar, 
which  created  so  much  interest  when 
shown  last  year.  Like  its  prototj'pe, 
the  flowers  of  Eynsford  Beauty  are 
large  and  of  a  charming  pink  hue,  this 
colour  fading  to  creamy  white  at  the  bases  of 
the  petals.  In  addition  they  are  delieiously 
fragrant.  The  blooms  are  said  to  last  a  very 
long  time  when  open,  a  trait  that  will  render  it 
a  most  valuable  variety  for  decorative  purposes. 
At  present  the  plants  show  no  signs  of  reverting 
back  to  American  Pillar.  The  blooms  are  freely 
borne  in  clusters,  as 
will  be  seen  in  the 
accompanying  illus- 
tration. This  sport 
has  been  secured  by 
Messrs.  H.  Cannell 
and  Sons  of  Swanley, 
Kent,  who,  it  will  be 
remembered,  ex- 
hibited American 
Pillar  so  finely 
last  year.  Eynsford 
Beauty  was  shown  by 
them  at  the  Royal  Hor- 
ticultural Society's 
meeting  on  the  4th 
inst.,  when  the  plants 
created  a  considerable 
amount  of  interest. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 


CINERARIA  FLAVESGENS. 

Af'  described  on  page  247,  this  Cineraria 
marks  quite  a  new  departure  as 
regards  colour,  and  may  be  regarded 
1  as  the  first  step  towards  a  yellow- 
^  flowered  form.  It  is  the  result  of 
a  cross  between  the  well  -  known 
Feltham  Beauty  and  Senecio  auriculatissima, 
a  parentage  that  is  of  special  interest.  The 
colour  when  the  flowers  open  is  pale  canary 
yellow,  this  changing  to  creamy  white  as  the 
flowers  age.  It  was  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  :  on  the  4th  inst.  by 
Messrs.   J.   Veitch  and  'Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea, 


ROSE    HECTOR 

MACKENZIE. 
This  fine  Hybrid  Tea 
Rose  was  much  ad- 
mired at  the  Paris 
trial  of  new  Roses  last 
year.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  M.  Guillot  has 
given  us  for  some  time 
and  will  certainly  add 
to  his  fame  as  a  raiser. 
It  reminds  me  much 
of  one  of  Messrs.  A. 
Dickson  and  Sons' 
beautiful  Roses  named 
Mamie ;  in  fact,  it 
seems  to  come  midway 
between  this  shapely 
and  fragrant  Rose  and 
the  old  and  excellent 
Mme.  Isaac  Pereire. 
It  is  very  vigorous, 
making,  if  desired,  a 
pillar  Rose  or  semi- 
climber,  and  should 
be  grand  asastandard. 
It  is  very  free-fiower- 
ing  and,  as  we  might 
expect  from  the  style 
of  flower,  very  fra- 
grant. It  is  strange 
that     such     a     Rose 

should  have  sprung  from  two  Roses  like 
Rosomane  Gravereaux  and  Liberty,  but  so 
it  is  reputed,  and  I  quite  believe  it,  although 
I  know  it  is  difficult  at  times  to  accept 
as  genuine  the  parentage  as  announced  by 
raisers.  My  experience  in  hybridising  Roses  has 
long  since  dismissed  the  doubts  from  my  mind 
such  as  I  used  to  have  upon  this  point,  for  the 
variations  are  really  so  remarkable,  and  one 
could  not  believe  them  unless  one  were  certain  of 
his  own  records.  That  excellent  judge  of  Roses, 
Mr.  E  G.  Hill  of  Richmond,  U.S.A.,  told  me  he 
was  much  impressed  with  this  Rose  at  Paris.  It 
is  one  all  lovers  of  the  Rose  should  either  bud  or 
procure  plants  of  this  season.  It  is  a  pure  delight 
to  notice  the  increasing  interest  in  hybridisation, 
which  means  so  much  for  our  gardens.  P. 


KOSB    EYNSrOKD    BEAUTY.      (^Xatliral  size.) 

when  it  received  an  award  of  merit.  We  were 
delighted  to  see  this  beautiful  flower,  and  fore- 
shadow great  results  in  the  future.  Messrs. 
Veitch  and  Sons  have  accomplished  much  for 
those  who  love  their  gardens,  and  this  new 
departure  we  welcome. 


NOTES  ON  ORCHIDS. 
(Cymbidiums.  ) 
For  the  most  part  the  members  of  this  stately 
genus  are  terrestrial,  and  are  characterised  by 
their  short,  stout  pseudo  -  bulbs  and  long, 
narrow  leaves.  When  given  generous  treatment 
they  thrive  and  produce  graceful  arching 
sprays  of  large  and  attractive  flowers,  which 
last  in  full  beauty  from  eight  to  ten  weeks  ;  but 


to  see  them  at  their  best  we  must  aim  at 
growing  specimen  plants,  particularly  of  those 
belonging  to  the  lowianum  section,  which 
embraces  giganteum,  the  ivory  white  eburneum, 
traceyanuni,  ebumeo-lowianum  and  grandi- 
florum  (hookerianum).  The  last  named,  however, 
does  not  open  its  blossoms  so  freely  as  Orchid- 
lovers  would  have  it,  and  it  is  only  occa- 
sionally that  its  fragrant  blossoms  are  seen  ; 
but  I  have  found,  by  keeping  the  plant  fairly  dry 
at  the  base  while  in  a  dormant  state  and  placing 
it  in  the  cool  house,  a  certain  amount  of 
success  has  been  achieved.  The  beautiful  C. 
insigne  (Sanderii),  which  has  recently  been  re- 
introduced in  quantity,  should  certainly  find  a 
home  in  every  collection,  for  it  is  indeed  an 
acquisition  and  a  gem  among  Cymbidiums.  There 
are  many  more  that 
one  might  mention, 
but  they  are  not  so 
amenable  to  cultiva- 
tion and,  therefore, 
not  included  in  the 
present  article. 
The  majority  have 
just  passed  out  of 
flower,  and  the  repot- 
ting should  be  done 
without  further  delay. 
All  are  strong-rooting 
subjects,  and,  having 
selected  a  plant  which 
has  filled  its  recep- 
tacle with  roots, 
another,  two  sizes 
larger,  can  be  pro- 
vided, first  placing  a 
thin  layer  of  drainage, 
then  a  little  fibrous 
loam,  after  which  it  is 
ready  to  receive  the 
plant.  The  compost 
consists  of  good 
fibrous  loam  one-half, 
lumpy  peat  one- 
fourth,  and  partly 
decayed  Oak  leaves 
one-fourth,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  finely 
broken  crooks,  well 
mixing  the  whole  a 
week  or  so  before  it 
is  required.  Press  the 
soil  moderately  firm  to 
within  1  inch  of  the 
rim,  and  blend  the 
final  layer  ivith  a  few 
live  heads  of  sphagnum 
moss. 

Healthy   specimens 

are  moved  on  intact, 

but  if  any  are  in  a  bad 

condition  at  the  bass, 

somewhat    drastic 

measures    must   be 

adopted  ;   all  the  old 

soil  and  dead  roots  are 

removed,  also  some  of 

the  back  bulbs  if  they 

are     numerous,     two 

behind  each  lead  or  growing  point  being  ample. 

A  smaller  pot  is  usually  needed  with  a  few  more 

crushed  crocks  in  the  potting  material,  and  after 

such   an    operation  careful  watering  and  extra 

shade  should  be  the  rule,  when  fresh  roots  soon 

appear,  thereby  causing  renewed  activity. 

The  intermediate  house  is  best  for  Cymbidiums, 
where  the  temperature  never  falls '  below 
50°  Fahr.,  with  a  rise  of  10°  or  IS"  for  the 
summer  months  ;  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind 
that  a  high  temperature  combined  with  a  dry, 
stuffy  atmosphere  is  not  conducive  to  luxuriant 
growth  and  floriferousness.  Newly  potted  plants 
need  a  good  watering  to  settle  the  soil  about 
the  roots,  and  afterwards  only  sparingly  till  they 
are  re-established,  when  it  can  b«  applied  in 
greater  quantity  with  advantage;  in  fact,  th«y 


254 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[May  22,  1909. 


ought  never  to  suffer  from  drought  at  any  period, 
although  when  at  rest  the  supply  is  less. 

Shading  is  necessary  from  April  to  September, 
whenever  the  sun  is  bright,  and  canvas  blinds  are 
recommended  in preferenoetoapermanentshading, 
because  they  can  be  rolled  up  when  not  required, 
and  thus  the  inmates  benefit  by  the  extra  light. 
A  light  spray  overhead  is  advised  during  hot  and 
dry  weather,  and  a  damp  down  between  the 
plants  twice  or  thrice  each  day.  Insects  are  not 
numerous,  excepting  a  small  brown  scale  which 
is  sometimes  troublesome,  but  when  this  is 
noticed  sponge  the  leaves  and  pseudo-bulbs  with 
a  weak  solution  of  some  reliable  insecticide  (there 
are  several  advertised  in  The  Garden),  and 
repeat  at  intervals  of  a  fortnight  till  the  pest  is 
eradicated.  Sentinel. 


YUCCA    TRECULIANA    CANALICU- 

LATA. 
The  hardy  species  of  Yucca  which  are 
represented  by  several  ornamental  sorts,  of  which 
the  common  Adam's  Needle  (Yucca  gloriosa) 
is  a  worthy  example,  are  well  known  to 
horticulturists.  The  more  tender  sorts,  how- 
ever, which  in  the  majority  of  gardens 
require  intermediate  house  culture,  are  not 
80  well  known,  though  many  have  much  to 
commend  them.  The  giant  species  from 
Guatemala,  Y.  guatemalensis,  for  instance,  is  of 
great  decorative  value  for  large  structures  such 
as  winter  gardens,  as  it  rises  to  a  height  of 
30  feet  or  40  feet,  with  an  immense  head  of 
large,  deep    green  leaves,  from   the  centre   of 


which  large  panicles  of  whitish,  fragrant  flowers 
arise.  Though  the  plant  now  under  notice  cannot 
compete  with  that  species  in  size,  it  forms  a  very 
nice  specimen,  and  a  glance  at  the  illustration 
will  be  sufficient  to  show  that  it  is  of  a  decidedly 
decorative  character.  It  was  known  half  a  cen- 
tury ago,  and  a  figure  of  it  was  prepared  for  the 
Botanical  Magazine,  t.  5201,  ia  1860.  Like  many 
similar  subjects,  however,  it  never  appears  to 
have  become  common,  and  it  is  only  in  a  few 
places  that  good  examples  are  to  be  found.  It  is 
a  native  of  Mexico,  and  the  specimen  under 
notice  is  about  4  feet  high,  with  a  large  head  of 
leaves,  each  of  which  is  from  2  feet  to  2  feet 
.3  inches  in  length  and  2i  inches  to  2i  inches  in 
width.  The  upper  surface  of  the  leaf  forms  a 
channel  by  the  manner  in  which  the  sides 
incurve.  In  colour  the  leaves  are  greyish  green 
and  they  are  very  thick  in  texture.  The  inflores- 
cence is  in  the  form  of  an  upright  panicle 
2^  feet  to  3  feet  in  height  and  15  inches 
through.  The  flowers  are  large,  cream  coloured 
and  borne  in  profusion.  This  particular  plant 
is  planted  out  on  a  rockery  in  an  intermediate 
house  and  is  growing  in  loamy  soil.  In  that 
position,  which,  by  the  way,  is  exposed  to  full 
sun,  it  is  perfectly  at  home,  and  attracted  much 
attention  when  in  flower.  M. 


COLOURED    PLATE. 

PLATE     1374. 


VDCOA  TRECOMANA    CANALK  ULATA   IN   THE    MEXICAN   HOUSE   AT    KEW. 


VANILLA    AROMATICA. 

Bbin(;  the  only  fruiting  Orchid  of  any  economic 
value  in  cultivation,  this  plant  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  of   tropical   fruits.      Grown  on   the 
back  wall  of  a  lean-to  house  facing  south-east, 
with  its  main  shoots 
trained  close  to  the 
glass,    it   bears 
bunches     of      fine 
fruits,   each   bunch 
6  inches  to  9  inches 
in    length    and 
twelve    to    twenty 
fruits  to  a  bunch. 
It     requires     very 
little  soil   to  grow 
in,    as    it    obtains 
nourishment    by 
means   of   its   long 
aerial  roots.     Like 
many       other 
Orchids,    it    needs 
drying   off   in    the 
wintermonths  until 
it     throws     spikes 
for  bloom  ;    then  it 
should  be   damped 
over     twice    daily 
until    the    flowers 
open,  which  should 
be  about  the  end  of 
March.    Great  care 
must    be   taken    to 
watch      for     the 
blooms,  as  they  last 
but  two    or    three 
hours  and  they  must 
be    artificially    fer- 
tilised during  that 
period.      After    all 
the  flowers  are  set, 
syringing    should 
take    place    again. 
When  the  pods  are 
black     and     about 
three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  length,  they 
should  be  gathered 
and  carefully  folded 
(singly)     in     tissue 
paper  in  packets  of 
twelve,  tied  up  with 
cotton  ;     then     the 
pods  will  turn  quite 
black,    when    they 
are  fit  for  use. 

J.  Racklev. 


BEGONIA    CLIBRANS'    PINK. 

HIS  new  winter-flowering  Begonia  is  a 
splendid  example  of  a  new  set  that 
Messrs.  Clibrans  of  Altrincham, 
Manchester,  have  raised  by  crossing 
Begonia  socotrana  with  tuberous 
varieties.  As  will  be  seen  by  the 
accompanying  coloured  plate,  both  foliage  and 
flowers  are  of  a  highly  ornamental  character,  and 
a  batch  of  such  plants  in  a  greenhouse  in  mid- 
winter would  be  both  beautiful  and  interesting. 
The  culture  of  this  does  not  differ  to  any  great 
extent  from  that  given  to  the  well-known 
Gloire  de  Lorraine  group,  the  value  of  which  is, 
of  course,  highly  appreciated.  Cuttings  are 
taken  from  the  old  plants  at  intervals  from  April 
till  August  and  rooted  in  a  temperature  ranging 
from  65"  to  70°.  When  rooted,  pot  off  separately 
into  3-inch  pots  and  grow  on  in  a  temperature 
5°  lower  than  that  given  above,  potting  into 
larger-sized  pots  as  the  smaller  ones  become 
filled  with  roots.  After  flowering,  water  must 
be  gradually  withheld  and  the  plants  kept 
rather  on  the  dry  side  until  growth  commences 
again,  when  the  supplies  can  be  increased. 
Suitable  soil  for  these  Begonias  is  composed  of 
good  loam  three  parts,  leaf-mould  one  part  and 
silver  sand  one  part,  with  a  little  well-decayed 
manure  added  for  well-rooted  specimens. 

The  variety  Clibrans'  Pink  received  the  dis- 
tinction of  an  award  of  merit  when  shown  before 
the  floral  committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  on  November  10  last,  an  honour  that  all 
who  saw  it  agreed  was  well  deserved.  Good 
winter-flowering  plants  are  none  too  plentiful, 
and  Messrs.  Clibrans  are  to  be  congratulated  on 
adding  this  beautiful  Begonia  to  those  already 
in  existence. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


D 


CLIMBING    PLANTS    IN    THE 
OUTDOOR    GARDEN. 

>URING  the  summer  months  many 
highly  artistic  gardens  owe  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  their  beauty 
to  the  free  but  judicious  use  of 
climbing  plants,  and,  considering 
the  ease  and  rapidity  with  which 
many  of  the  subjects  which  come  under  this 
heading  can  be  raised,  it  is  not  surprising  that 
we  find  them  grown  more  extensively  every  year. 
Climbing  plants  are  usually  grown  for  one  of 
two  purposes,  viz.,  to  hide  up  ugly  walls,  fences, 
or  corners,  or  to  form  arbours  or  pergolas  under 
which  the  owner  may  seek  shelter  from  the  hot 
rays  of  the  summer  sun,  and  yet  at  the  same 
time  take  full  advantage  of  the  fresh  air  and 
enjoy  the  fragrance  of  the  other  occupants  of 
the  garden.  Again,  these  plants  may  be  roughly 
divided  into  two  sections,  viz  ,  those  of  a  more 
or  less  permanent  character  and  those  which  are 
annually  raised  from  seed.  Naturally,  the 
former  will  be  employed  where  a  permanent 
covering  is  desired  ;  but  there  are  many  places 
where  it  is  more  convenient  to  use  those  of  a 
fleeting  character,  and  it  is  to  these  Utter  that 
attention  is  now  specially  directed. 

Among  these  we  have  the  so-called  Climbing 
Nasturtium,  Morning  Glory  (Convolvulus  major), 
Canary  Creeper,  Sweet  Peas,  Coba;a  scanden'. 
Runner  Beans,  Vegetable  Marrows  and  orna- 
mental Gourds,  to  name  only  a  few,  and  all  of 
which  are  excellent  for  quickly  forming  a  fcreen 
or  hiding  ugly  walls  or  fences.  Where  they  are 
to  be  used  for  the  last-named  purpose,  it  is  of 
little  use  to  think  of  training  them  direct  on  the 
wall  or  fence,  as,  owing  to  their  vigorous  and 
rapid  growth,  one's  whole  time  would  be  taken 
up  in  fasteoing  the  growths  thereto.     A  bet-ter 


May  22,  1909. 


THE     GAEDEN. 


255 


way  is  to  put  in  stout  Pea-stioks  a  few  inches 
from  the  wall,  or  even  ooarae  wire-netting, 
wooden  trellis  or  strands  of  wire  will  do,  and  let 
the  climbers  ramble  over  these  almost  as  they  like. 

As  for  all  other  plants,  the  soil  for  these  will 
need  some  preparation,  and  as  leafage  is  usually 
more  desired  than  flowers,  it  should  be  deeply 
dug  and  well  enriched  with  well-rotted  farmyard 
manure,  taking  care  to  keep  this  well  down  from 
the  surface.  With  the  exception  of  Sweet  Peas, 
all  those  named  are  best  planted  early  in  June, 
and  as  young  specimens  can  always  be  procured 
cheaply  at  this  season  from  a  nurseryman,  a  fine 
eflfeet  may  be  produced  at  a  small  cost.  Of 
course,  if  desired  they  can  be  raised  direct  from 
seeds,  but  it  is  now  fully  late  for  sowing  these. 

Owing  to  their  position  these  summer  climbers 
frequently  suffer  severely  from  dryness  at  the 
roots,  a  condition  that  ought  not  at  any  time  to 
be  allowed.  In  addition  to  the  applications  of 
clear  water,  the  plants  will  derive  considerable 
benefit  from  soakings  of  weak  liquid  manure  at 
intervals  of  about  ten  days,  but  a  good  watering 
with  clean  water  must  be  given  an  hour  or  two 
before  applying  the  manure. 

Where  a  temporary  arbour  is  desired,  it  is  an 
easy  matter  to  construct  one  with  the  longest 
and  most  pliable  of  the  Pea-stieks.  These 
should  be  thrust  firmly  into  the  ground  to  form 
the  shape  desired  ;  then  their  pliant  tops  may 
be  bent  over  and  tied  together  to  form  the  roof. 
A  formation  of  this  kind  when  clothed  with 
Canary  Creeper  and  Morning  Glory  is  decidedly 
useful  and  ornamental,  but  where  the  latter 
plant  is  used  the  situation  should  be  a  sunny 
one.  A  plant  not  yet  mentioned,  but  one  which, 
though  only  effective  in  the  summer  months,  is 
of  a  permanent  character,  is  the  common  Hop,  a 
climber  that  ought  to  be  grown  for  summer 
effect  in  our  gardens  much  more  than  it  is 
at  present.  Roots  can  frequently  be  procured 
from  the  hedgerows  during  late  autumn,  and 
when  once  established  the  pretty  green  shoots 
are  produced  annually  in  increasing  quantities, 
the  handsome.  Grape-like  clusters  of  blossoms 
which  follow  in  the  autumn  lending  an 
additional  charm  to  this  native  climber.  For 
the  town  gardener  who  usually  has  a  plethora  of 
ugly  corners  and  fences  to  hide,  the  plants 
here  named  are  of  the  greatest  value  and  lose 
none  of  their  charm  through  being  cheap. 


AN 


UNCOMMON  BULBOUS  PLANT 
(BRODLEA  UNIFLORA). 
Tulips,  Daffodils,  Crocuses  and  similar  bulbous 
plants  are  very  lovely  and  well  worthy  of  their 
present  popularity  ;  but  everyone  likes  a  change, 
and  it  is  a  relief  to  enter  a  garden  where  un- 
common bulbous  subjects  are  made  a  conspicuous 
feature.  Those  who  delight  in  the  unique  and 
original  should  not  fail  to  obtain  a  few  bulbs  of 
Brodiaea  uniflora,  a  charming  introduction  from 
Buenos  Ayres.  Most  members  of  the  Broditea 
family  produce  their  blossoms  in  umbels  or 
clusters  of  some  kind  ;  but  this  species  bears 
flowers,  which  measure  about  2  inches  across, 
singly  on  dark,  slender  stalks  about  1  foot  in 
length.  The  blossoms  vary  slightly  in  colour, 
some  being  pure  white,  while  others  are  white 
with  a  line  of  soft  blue  down  the  centre  of  each 
petal.  This  line  is  never  at  all  hard,  but  the 
colouring  fades  gradually  away  into  the  rest  of 
the  petal,  which  in  some  cases  it  covers  entirely. 
On  the  outer  side  of  the  flower  there  is  a  dark 
brown  instead  of  a  blue  line  ;  but  as  the  petals  of 
fully  opened  flowers  spread  out  horizontally  this 
colouring  is  scarcely  noticeable  except  in  the 
bud.  The  blossoms  just  described  are  produced 
during  April,  and  one  of  the  charms  of  the  plant 
is  that  its  flowering  season  is  unusually  long. 

The  leaves  are  dark  green  in  colour  and  about 
0  inches  to  8  inches  long.  Owing  to  their 
tendency  to  grow  outward  they  seldom  rise  more 
than  1  inch  or  2  inches  above  the  soil  level. 

Brodiseas  like  a  warm,  sandy,  well-drained  soil, 
and  though  some  of  the  species  are  said  to  be 


rather  tender,  B.  uniflora  has  proved  itself 
perfectly  hardy  at  Kew.  The  bulbs  seem  to  like 
to  be  left  undisturbed  until  they  become  over- 
crowded, ■  when  they  usually  show  signs  of 
deterioration,  and  benefit  by  being  lifted  and 
divided.  B.  uniflora  is  well  adapted  to  pot 
culture,  and  is  consequently  a  valuable  plant  for 
the  cold  greenhouse.  For  this  purpose  the  bulbs 
should  be  potted  or  panned  up  during  September 
in  a  compost  consisting  of  two  parts  loam  to  one 
of  leaf -soil  and  one  of  sand.  They  should  then 
be  plunged  in  ashes  in  the  open,  where  they  may 
remain  till  the  flower-buds  appear,  when  they 
should  be  brought  under  glass. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

Tying  Oct. —So  many  inexperienced  growers, 
notwithstanding  the  advice  to  the  contrary  that 
is  repeatedly  being  given,  either  set  the  seeds 
too  thickly  and  neglect  to  thin  the  plants  out 
sufficiently,  or,  when  they  raise  the  seedlings  in 
pots,  put  out  the  mass  of  soil  and  roots  intact, 
that  the  operation  of  training  is  of  consider- 
able importance.  If  the  principal  growths  are 
allowed  to  run  up   in   a  muddled  mass,   it  is 


superfluous  buds  and  shoots  in  Peaches  and 
Nectarines.  Plants  grown  in  lines  or  clumps  at 
distances  of  from  12  inches  to  18  inches  asunder 
should  never  have  more  than  four  main  shoots, 
and  if  there  are  only  two  the  blooms  will  be 
vastly  superior  in  length  of  stem  and  substance. 
The  removal  of  shoots  that  are  obviously  not 
required  should  commence  very  early  ;  but  rather 
than  neglect  it  entirely,  it  can  be  done  now  that 
the  plants  have  made  considerable  progress. 
Only  retain  as  many  as  can  have  the  benefit  of 
full  light,  but  do  not  cut  out  three  or  four  at 
one  time,  or  a  shock  will  be  given  to  the  plant 
from  which  it  will  not  quickly  recover. 

Surface  Cultivation. — In  order  to  conserve 
the  moisture  in  the  soil  and  thus  ensure  that  the 
plants  shall  have  the  benefit  of  all  the  food  that 
was  worked  in,  it  is  necessary  that  surface  culti- 
vation shall  be  most  persistently  followed  up. 
There  will  be  a  considerable  amount  of  traffic 
between  the  rows  and  it  will  be  essential  to 
occasionally  apply  water,  and  both  will  drive 
the  soil  down  into  a  solid  mass  into  which 
air  cannot  penetrate,  but  out  of  which  food-laden 
moisture  can  always  find  an  easy  way.  Either 
the  Dutch  or  the  draw  hoe,  or  better  still  both, 


A   GOOD   CLUMP   OF  BKODIiBA  UNIFLORA. 


perfectly  certain  that  the  blooms  will  not  bei 
excellent  in  respect  of  colour,  form  or  substance  ■, 
but  matters  can  be  substantially  improved  by' 
taking  the  trouble  to  draw  out  the  shoots  and 
attach  them  to  stakes  in  positions  where  there 
is  abundance  of  space  for  proper  development. 
In  practically  all  cases,  tying  out  of  the  growths 
in  the  earliest  stages  is  imperative  to  draw  them 
into  the  desired  directions,  but  beyond  this,  if 
plenty  of  space  has  been  allowed,  nothing  more 
will  be  needed.  Thus  it  is  seen  that  the  grower 
who  neglects  the  apparently  unimportant  details 
at  the  outset  simply  makes  work  for  himself 
later  on.  In  attaching  the  ligature  it  suffices  if 
it  brings  the  shoot  into  the  correct  place  ;  it 
must  never  be  drawn  tightly,  or  the  progress  of 
the  plant  will  be  arrested. 

Thinning  Shoots. — This  is  another  operation 
to  which  sufficient  importance  is  not  attached 
by  the  majority  of  amateurs,  who  appear  to 
think  that  the  more  growths  they  have,  the  more 
flowers  will  be  produced  and  the  longer  the 
display  will  last.  The  fact  is,  however,  that  the 
reduction  of  the  number  of  leaders  tends  to  the 
advantage  of  the  cultivator  in  all  directions  ;  but 
it  should  be  done  with  the  care  and  thoroughness 
that    would    be    devoted     to    the    removal    of 


should  be  used  at  frequent  intervals,  in  order  to 
keep  the  top  inch  or  so  of  soil  in  a  constant 
state  of  dust,  as  this  has  a  wonderful  power  of 
keeping  the  moisture  in.  It  is  impossible  to  hoe 
too  often,  provided  that  the  surface  is  in  a  suit- 
able condition  for  working. 

Mulching. — There  is  still  another  method  by 
which  all  the  food  in  the  soil  can  be  ensured  to 
the  plants,  and  it  is  even  superior  to  surface 
hoeing  ;  this  is  by  the  aid  of  mulchings  of 
manure.  If  we  have  recourse  to  these,  not  only 
do  we  prevent  the  waste,  but  at  the  same  time 
we  provide  food,  since  the  nutrient  properties  of 
the  manure  will  steadily  be  washed  down,  and 
as  certainly  as  this  happens  the  roots  will 
promptly  take  full  advantage  of  them.  Whether 
long  litter  or  short  manure  is  chosen  for  this 
purpose  must  necessarily  depend  upon  individual 
circumstances ;  but  the  preference  should  be 
given  to  the  latter  as  yielding  more  food,  not 
being  so  likely  to  settle  down  into  a  close 
mass,  and  permitting  the  free  passage  of  air 
and  water  to  the  soil  beneath.  In  either  cise, 
when  heavy  watering  is  needed  llio  material 
should  be  drawn  back  to  the  middle  of  the  alley^^ 
and  be  replaced  again  when  the  surface  has  dried 
a  little.  Spencbr. 

1 


256 


THE     GAIiDEN. 


[May  22,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Plants  that  were 
set  out  in  the  herbaceous  border  or 
beds  late  in  the  spring  will  now  derive 
considerable  benefit  from  good  soak- 
inga  of  water  should  the  weather 
prove  at  all  dry.  Although  appa- 
rently growing  well,  they  will  (juiekly  feel  the 
least  dryness  of  the  soil  and  a  severe  check  will 
follow.  In  addition  to  the  watering,  a  mulching 
of  short  manure  around  such  as  Phloxes  and 
Pyrethrums  will  be  of  considerable  assistance. 
Established  Phloxes,  especially  where  the  soil  is 
of  a    sandy    character,    must   also    have    these 


bulky  gamp  so  persistently  carried  by  the  famous 
"  Sairey." 

Vegetable  Oardm. — Busy  as  bees  will  be  the 
owners  of  vegetable  gardens  at  this  season. 
Weeds  and  crops  are  all  growing  at  a  tremendous 
pace,  and  hoes  must  be  kept  bright  and  keen  if 
the  weeds  are  to  be  kept  in  check.  Early 
Potatoes  need  a  slight  earthing  up,  but  on  soil 
of  a  sandy  character  this  must  not  be  overdone, 
else  roots  are  brought  near  the  surface  and 
the  plants  thereby  suffer  should  the  weather 
prove  very  dry.  The  thinning  of  such  crops  as 
Onions,  Carrots,  Parsnips  and  Turnips  should  be 
continued  ;  the  early  Carrots  may  be  left  fairly 


SIDE   FLOWER  (lABDEN    FACING   SOCTH. 


'Kfnh  Ijii  J''  itartU.) 


FRONT   FLOWER  GARDEN    FACING    EAST.     (?n  iinrtlx  In,  .7  iinrds.) 


detaud  attended  to.  Some  of  the  hardiest  of  the 
bedding  plants  may  now  go  to  their  summer 
quarters,  where  these  are  ready  to  receive  them  ; 
but  generally  bedding  out  is  best  deferred  until 
the  first  week  In  June.  Annuals  are  now  grow- 
ing very  rapidly  and  thinning  must  be  persistently 
attended  to.  In  many  instances,  such  as 
Clatkias,  Godetias  and  annual  Chrysanthemums, 
where  the  roots  are  of  a  branching  character, 
the  seedlings  that  are  taken  out  may  be  utilised 
for  filling  gaps  elsewhere,  but  it  is  necessary  to 
choose  a  rainy  day  for  the  purpose.  Many 
plants,  such  as  the  Madonna  Lily,  Delphiniums 
and  other  tall-growing  subjects,  will  now  or 
shortly  need  staking,  and  this  work  must  not  be 
neglected.  Aim  to  tie  each  shoot  out  in  as 
natural  a  pos-ilion  as  possible,  and  avoid  the  oft- 
repeated  error  of  placing  a  stake  in  the  centre  of 
the  plant  and  tying  all  the  growths  tightly  to  it, 
eo  that  the  plant  when  finished  looks  like  the 


thick,  as  the  roots  can  be  drawn  out  and  used  as 
soon  as  they  are  as  thick  as  one's  little  finger, 
thus  making  room  for  those  that  remain. 
French  Beans  that  were  sown  under  glass,  as 
advised  a  few  weeks  ago,  are  now  growing 
rapidly,  and  the\-  must  be  afforded  all  the  light 
and  air  possible  ;  it  will  not  be  safe  to  plant 
them  out  until  next  week,  and  then  they  must 
have  protection  from  very  cold  winds  for  the 
first  few  nights.  A  good  plan  is  to  place  a  large 
inverted  flower-pot  over  each  plant.  Leeks  are 
a  vegetable  that  should  be  grown  far  more 
extensively  by  amateurs  than  they  are  at  present. 
Although  for  exhibition  purposes  they  should  be 
planted  in  trenches  the  same  as  Celery ,  good 
specimens  may  be  grown  on  the  level  ground  by 
planting  now.  Make  the  rows  18  inches  apart, 
and  allow  a  distance  of  1  foot  between  the 
plants,  which  must  be  inserted  deeply.  Leeks 
like  well-trenohed  and  rich  soil, 


Oreenhouse  and  Frames. — The  hot-bed  frame, 
which  has  been  used  for  the  raising  and 
subsequent  accommodation  of  bedding  plants 
and  similar  matprial,  will  now  be  empty,  and 
unless  the  manure  of  which  the  bsd  was  formed 
is  required  for  any  other  purpose,  a  Cucumber 
plant  or  two  may  be  placed  in  the  frame,  one 
plant  to  a  light  being  sufficient.  Under  the 
centre  of  each  light  place  about  a  bushel  of 
good  fibrous  loam  in  rather  a  coarse  condition, 
and  allow  this  to  remain,  with  the  frame  nearly 
closed,  for  two  days  and  in  the  form  of  a  mound. 
After  this  time  a  plant  may  be  put  in  the  centre 
of  each  mound  and  watered  in,  keeping  the 
frame  nearly  closed  afterwards.  A  light  syring- 
ing of  the  soil  and  sides  of  the  frame  will  be 
needed  morning  and  afternoon,  closing  the  lights 
right  up  about  4  p.m.  Light  shading  will  also 
be  neoessar}'. 

Fruit  Garden.  — All  trees  growing  on  walls  will 
at  this  season  be  greatly  benefited  by  light 
syringings  when  the  weather  is  hot  and  dry,  this 
freeing  the  foliage  from  accumulations  of  dust 
and  also  keeping  insect  pests  in  check.  All  fruit 
plots  will  need  constant  attention  as  regards 
hoeing,  as  weeds  grow  rapidly  and  soon  get  the 
upper  hand  if  neglected  for  a  short  time. 
Gooseberries  have  set  well ,  and  as  soon  as  the 
fruits  are  large  enough  to  use  the.\-  should  be 
thinned,  thus  giving  those  that  remain  a  chance 
to  develop  freely.  This  is  a  point  frequently 
neglected  by  amateurs,  who  usually  gather  all 
from  one  or  more  bushes  for  use  in  a  green  state 
and  allow  the  others  to  grow  unthinned.       H. 


SUMMER  BEDDING  FOR  EFFECT  IN  A 
SMALL  GARDEN. 

Here  are  the  plans  of  two  flower  lawns  with  a 
total  space  of  ground  measuring  33  yards  by 
20  yards  and  containing  twenty-nine  small  beds, 
which  were  planted  last  summer  as  follows  : 

Bed  No.  1. — One  standard  Heliotrope  in  the 
centre,  surrounded  by  four  standard  Fuchsias, 
two  standard  Artemisia  arborescens,  eight 
standard  Geranium  Paul  Crampel,  four  standard 
Eucalyptus,  filled  up  with  Kochia  tricho- 
phylla.  Coreopsis  grandiflora,  Antherioum  varie- 
gatum,  Zea  japonica,  Panicum  plicatum,  little 
light  red  Begonias,  Chamiepeuce  Diacantha  (Fish- 
bone Thistle),  Mesembryantheraum  cordifolium 
variegatum,  and  bordered  with  white  Alyssum 
and  Lobelia. 

Bed  No.  2.— One  standard  Sutherlandia  fru- 
tescens,  two  standard  Lemon  scented  Verbena, 
one  standard  Abutilon  vexillarium  variegatum, 
with  edging  of  Altemanthera  versicolor  grandis 
and  groundwork  of  Fuchsia  Cloth  of  Gold. 

Bed  No.  3.— Same  as  No.  2. 

Bed  No.  4. — Eucalyptus  cordata,  Coreopsis, 
Iresine  Herbstii,  Zea  japonica,  Koohias,  Ivy  Gera- 
nium, bordered  with  Lobelia  and  Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  5.— Same  as  No.  4. 

Bed  No.  6. — Two  standard  Gnaphalium  macro- 
phila,  two  standard  Artemisia  arborescens,  one 
standard  Tropseolum  Fireball,  with  groundwork 
of  Verbena  venosa,  edged  with  Geranium  Little 
Dandy  and  Lobelia. 

Bed  No.  7. — Same  as  No.  6. 

Bed  No.  8. — Three  standard  Sutherlandia 
frutescens,  two  standard  Solanum  pyracanthuro, 
with  groundwork  of  Geranium  Mrs.  Pollock  and 
Anthericum  variegatum,  with  edging  of  Alter- 
nanthera  versicolor  grandis. 

Bed  No.  9.— Dwarf  Geranium  Paul  Crampel, 
edged  with  Alyssum  and  Lobelia. 

Beds  Nos.  10,  U,  12  and  1.3.— Same  as  No.  9. 

Bed  No.  14.— Same  as  No.  8. 


May  22,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


^7 


A   PRIMROSE   PLANT  LIFTED   FOR   DIVISION. 

Bed  No.  15. — One  standard  Heliotrope  in  the 
middle,  two  standard  Artemisia  arboreseens,  four 
standard  Fuchsia  named  Charming,  four  standard 
Eucalyptus  oordata,  two  standard  Gnaphalium 
maorophila,  surrounded  with  Koehia  scoparia 
trioophylla,  Zea  japoniea,  Anthericum  variegatum, 
Chamfepeuce  dicantha  (Thistle),  Mesembryanthe- 
mum  cordifolium  variegatum,  Panicum  plicatum, 
edged  with  Lobelia  and  Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  16. — Six  standard  Abutilon  Thomp- 
sonii,  surrounded  with  Sutherlandia  frutescens, 
Verbena  venosa,  Zea  japoniea.  Lobelia  ear- 
dinalis,  edged  with  Geranium  Little  Dandy. 

Bed  No.  17.— Same  as  No.  16. 

Bed  No.  18. — Two  standard  Fuchsias  named 
Lye's  Own,  two  standard  Lemon-scented  Verbena 
plants,  with  groundwork  of  IresineBrilliantissima, 
edged  with  white  Alyssum  and  Lobelia. 

Bed  No.  19.— Same  as  No.  18. 

Bed  No.  20. — Four  standard  Fuchsias  named 
Lye's  Own,  two  standard  Trop*olum  Fireball, 
four  standard  Abutilon  Thompsonii ,  f our  stanlard 
Artemisia  arboreseens,  surrounded  with  Perilla 
nankinensis,  Browallia  speciosa  major.  Ivy  Gera- 
nium, Coreopsis  grandiflora,  edged  with  Lobelia 
and  Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  21. — Four  half-standard  Artemisia 
arboreseens,  with  groundwork  of  Anthericum 
variegatum,  Coleus  of  all  shades,  with  edging  of 
Lobelia  and  Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  22. — One  standard  Tropseolum  Fire- 
ball, three  standard  Heliotropes,  two  standard 
Lantana  delicatissima,  Solanum  jasminoides 
climbing  up  standard  stems,  surrounded  witli 
Coreopsis  grandiflora,  Mesembryanthemum  cordi- 
folium variegatum,  yellow  Lantana  named  Drap 
d'Or,  edged  with  Lobelia  and  Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  23. — Four  standard  Heliotropes,  one 
standard  Fuchsia  named  Lye's  Own,  six  standard 
Geranium  Paul  Crampel,  Tropseolum  Fireball 
climbing  up  Fuchsia  standards,  with  groundwork 
of  Coreopsis  grandiflora,  Zea  japoniea,  Mesem- 
bryanthemum cordifolium  variegatum,  edged 
with  Lobelia  and  Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  25. — One  standard  Heliotrope  in  the 
middle,  eight  standard  Fuchsia  Mrs.  Rundle, 
four  standard  Geranium  Paul  Crampel,  two 
standard  Artemisia  arboreseens,  four  standard 
Eucalyptus  cordata,  with  groundwork  of  Koohias, 
little  red  Begonias,  Anthericum  variegatum, 
Mesembryanthemum  cordifolium  variegatum, 
Panicum  plicatum,  edged  with  Lobelia  and 
Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  26. — One  standard  Abutilon  vexil- 
larium  variegatum,  two  standard  Sutherlandia 
frutescens,  two  standard  Fuchsias  named  Charm- 
ing, with  groundwork  of  Coreopsis  grandiflora, 
Iresine  Herbstii  and  Alonsoa  Warscewiozii. 

Bed  No.  27.— Same  as  No.  26. 


Bed  No.  28. — Six  standard  Heliotropes,  four 
half-standard  Lantana  delicatissima,  with  ground- 
work of  double  Begonias  and  Humea  elegans, 
edged  with  Lobelia  and  Alyssum. 

Bed  No.  29. — Six  standard  Lantana  delicatis- 
sima, nine  standard  Solanum  jasminoides,  with 
groundwork  of  yellow  Lantana  Drap  d"Or,  white 
Geranium  Hermione,  white  Veronica,  edged  with 
Lobelia  and  Alyssum. 

The  above  arrangement  of  beds  and  har- 
monising of  planting  had  a  beautiful  eflect. 
How  often  one  sees  gardens  so  arranged  that  a 
plot  of  grass  occupies  the  centre,  with  a  border 
all  round  the  outside  (generally  under  a  fence  or 
hedge)  and  a  gravel  walk  between  the  outside 
bed  and  lawn.  Why  should  we  not  have  grass 
all  round  the  outside  close  up  to  the  hedge  or 
fence  for  a  change,  no  gravel  paths  and  beautiful 
artistic  beds  cut  out  about  the  lawn  ?  Plants 
would  thrive  much  better  with  the  additional 
light  and  air,  and  one  would  be  able  to  get  a 
much  finer  floral  effect.  Nine  years  ago  my 
garden  was  an  ugly  plot  of  ground  with  so-called 
flower  borders  under  hedges  never  properly 
made,  so  that  plants  could  not  possibly  thrive. 
All  these  borders  I  did  away  with  and  cut  out 
iresh  beds  as  shown  in  the  illustration  on 
page  2.")ti,  and  I  have  never  regretted  the  cost.  I 
have  been  well  repaid  in  being  able  to  bed  out 
certain  sub-tropical  plants  under  proper  con- 
ditions, and  obtain  the  same  eflfect  on  a  miniature 
scale  as  that  displayed  in  the  floral  sections  of 
many  of  the  municipal  parks. 

I  should  add,  the  better  the  attention  given 
to  the  turf  on  the  flower  lawns,  the  better  will 
be  the  appearance  of  these  different-shaped  beds. 
I  should  also  like  to  say  that  most  of  these 
plants  require  to  be  wintered  in  a  stove  house 
not  less  than  50  feet  by  8  feet,  with  a  minimum 
temperature  of  50". 

On  the  right  of  the  side  flower  garden  is  a 
pergola  with  Roses  Crimson  Rambler  and  Dorothy 
Perkins.  H.  J.  Selborne  Boomh. 

Holwell  Hyde,  Hatjldd,  Herts. 

INCREASING    PRIMROSES    AND 

POLYANTHUSES. 

Polyanthuses  have  been  cultivated  in  gardens 

for  years.     Formerly  they  were  largely  increased' 


by  division ;  at  the  present  time,  however, 
raising  the  plants  from  seeds  is  the  method 
largely  adopted.  Named  varieties  are  not  so 
popular  as  they  were  a  few  years  ago.  They 
come  fairly  true  to  colour  from  seeds.  The 
following  five  colours  are  those  usually  found  in 
nurserymen's  catalogues,  of  which  seeds  are 
offered  in  separate  packets  —  white,  yellow, 
purple,  crimson  and  gold-laced. 

Double  Primroses. — According  to  writers  in 
old  gardening  books,  these  plants  have  been 
cultivated  in  this  country  for  close  on  two 
centuries.  In  the  North  of  England,  Scotland 
and  Ireland  they  thrive  much  better  than  in  the 
South.  A  slightly  shaded,  moist  position  should 
if  possible  be  given  them.  Double  Primroses 
being  weaker  in  growth,  generally  speaking 
require  more  attention.  The  stock  is  increased 
by  dividing  the  roots  immediately  after  flowering 
;  ceases.  If,  however,  no  more  plants  are  needed, 
they  should  be  left  undisturbed  for  several 
years.  They  are  not  so  satisfactorily  grown  for 
spring  bedding  as  the  single  varieties,  lifting  in 
spring  and  autumn  not  suiting  them.  Most  of 
the  sorts  are  named  according  to  the  colour  of 
the  flower,  as  Double  White,  Double  Sulphur, 
Double  Mauve,  Double  Crimson,  &c.  Other 
named  varieties  worthy  of  mention  are  Arthur 
DumoUin  (double  violet)  and  Paddy  (double  red). 


STAKING  BEDDING-OUT  PLANTS. 
There  are  many  bedding  plants  that  must  be 
supported  with  stakes  if  they  are  to  attain  to 
and  keep  their  full  beauty.  Two  mistakes  most 
frequently  made  are  delaying  the  work  and  then, 
probably  owing  to  undue  haste,  doing  it  in- 
differently. If  the  stem  or  stems  of  a  plant 
once  fall  away  from  their  natural  position  and 
remain  so  for  a  few  days,  they  rarely  afterwaids 
have  an  entirely  satisfactory  appearance. 

The  cultivator  must  so  fix  the  stakes  and 
fasten  the  plants  to  them  that  the  specimens  will 
retain  their  natural  habit  throughout  the  season. 
The  ligatures  must  be  made  so  that  the  stems  of 
the  plants  will  have  room  to  swell  and  neither 
be  cut  into  nor  bruised.  It  is  impossible  to 
entirely  hide  the  supporting  stakes,  but  they 
must  be  placed  with  the  object  of  obscuring  them 
tTs  much  as  possible.  Shamrock. 


TWO   PIECES   OF  A   DIVIDED   PLANT,  EACH   SUITABLE  FOR  PLANTING   TO  FORM   A  NEW  SPECIMEN. 


258 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  22,  1909. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


North  Borders. — In  many  gardens  in  towns 
the  north  border  is  the  only  one  available  for 
use  as  a  flower-bed.  The  reason  why  the 
plants  generally  grown  in  these  north-aspeot 
borders  are  so  often  unsatisfactory  is  because 
they  are  unsuitable.  There  are  certain  kinds 
of  summer-flowering  subjects  that  will  not 
succeed  unless  they  are  grown  in  the  sunshine, 
and  so  it  is  unwise  to  plant  them  in  a  position 
where  the  sunrays  will  not  reach  them.  The 
following  will  prove  very  satisfactory  in  a  north 
border  :  French  and  African  Marigolds,  Tagetes 
signata  pumila,  Dianthuses,  Raby  Castle  border 
Carnation,  Pansies  and  Violas,  Mignonette, 
Virginian  Stock,  the  Night-scented  Stock 
(Matthiola  bicornis),  Gaillardias,  Calliopsis, 
Fuchsias,  Calceolarias,  Marguerites,  tuberous 
Begonias,  Limnanthes  Douglasii  and  dwarf 
Lupines.  The  amateur  will  readily  see  how  easy 
it  is  to  obtain  a  very  nice  display  of  flowers  in  a 
north  border  at  a  comparatively  small  cost. 

How  TO  Prepare  the  Borders. — The  soil  is 
rarely  too  rich  in  a  town  garden,  on  account  of 
the  difficulty  of  obtaining  good  fibrous  loam  and 
manure.  The  north  border  should,  however, 
not  be  very  rich,  as  it  would  be  unwise  to  force 
a  very  luxurious  growth,  for  such  would  not 
bear  flowers  freely.  The  important  point  is  to 
deeply  dig  the  soil  and  thus  prepare  a  free- 
rooting  medium  for  the  plants.  If  the  soil  is 
very  poor,  put  in  some  well-rotted  manure  ;  if  it 
is  good,  a  small  quantity  will  suffice  to  promote 
a  healthy  growth. 

Hardening  Bedding-out  Plants.— The  work 
of  bedding-out  the  plants  must  be  done  during 
the  early  part  of  June,  and  in  the  meantime  the 
plants  must  be  prepared.  It  is  unwise  to  take 
them  from  a  warm  frame  and  fully  expose  them 
suddenly.  They  ought  to  be  partly  exposed  and 
protected  for  about  a  fortnight  prior  to  the 
planting.  The  specimens  must  be  left  quite 
uncovered  during  the  daytime  and  covered  with 
some  thin  material  at  night ;  and  for  nearly  a 
week  before  being  planted  in  the  open  border 
they  must  not  have  any  covering  at  all.  Pur- 
chased plants  often  look  very  well  at  the  time, 
but  fail  afterwards  and  do  not  recover  their 
healthy  appearance  before  the  summer  is  well 
advanced.  This  is  because  they  have  not  been 
gradually  exposed  to  the  open  air.  My  advice 
to  amateurs  who  have  to  buy  their  bedding-out 
plants  is  to  insist  upon  being  supplied  with 
plants  that  have  been  exposed  to  the  open  air 
for  some  time. 

Climbing  Plants.  —  The  young  shoots  of 
Roses,  Jasminum,  Honeysuckle,  Ivy  and  various 
other  plants  are  now  making  rapid  growth,  and 
should  be  duly  fastened  to  the  wall,  trellis  or 
post,  as  the  case  may  be.  Where  these  young 
shoots  appear  to  be  overcrowded,  they  must  be 
thinned  out,  as  it  would  be  useless  to  retain 
them  all.  Many  climbing  plants  on  walls  get 
very  thin  and  straggling  near  the  base,  so  that  it 
is  advisable  to  tie  in  carefully  the  young  shoots 
growing  there. 

Tomatoes. — These  plants  are  grown  in  many 
curious  positions  in  town  gardens,  but  there  is 
no  reason  why  more  should  not  be  cultivated. 
The  plants  grow  quickly,  make  a  fine  covering 
for  a  rude  fence  or  unsightly  wall  and  are  also 
profitable.  The  plants  must  be  treated  as  tender 
annuals  ;  frost  at  night  at  this  season  will  kill 
them,  so  that  no  planting  out  must  be  done  until 
all  danger  from  it  is  past.  In  the  meantime, 
having  selected  the  position,  the  cultivator  must 
prepare  the  border.  Where  borders  are  not 
available,  large  flower-pots,  tubs  and  boxes  may 
be  used.  In  the  latter  case  sound  drainage  is 
very  essential  and  a  moderately  rich,  firm 
compost.  In  the  case  of  the  outside  border  a 
firm  rooting  medium  must  be  provided,  so  that 
the  plants  will  be  short-jointed  and  fruitful. 
Manure  need  not  be  put  in  at  all.  The  necessary 
feeding  can  easily  be  done  later.  Avon. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOE    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit    Houses. 

PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  in 
houses  where  the  fruits  have  passed 
stoning  may  be  safely  pushed  forward 
and  given  a  night  temperature  of  (1.5° 
and  a  rise  to  80°  by  day  in  bright 
weather,  with  ample  ventilation. 
Close  the  house  about  3  p.m. ,  reducing  a  portion 
of  the  air  a  short  time  previously,  and  maintain 
plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture  by  well  syringing 
and  damping  down.  Be  very  careful  with  the 
early  American  varieties  as  they  approach  ripen- 
ing, airing  more  freely  and  thus  allowing  the 
pulp  to  ripen  to  the  stone.  Of  these  I  usually 
gather  the  most  forward  a  little  under-ripe  at 
intervals  and  place  them  in  a  fruit-room  on 
layers  of  a  soft  material,  where  they  ripen  more 
satisfactorily.  See  that  the  borders  do  not  lack 
moisture,  but  reduce  this  a  little  at  the  time  of 
ripening.  Keep  pace  with  tying  down  the 
shoots  and  the  removal  of  any  which  may  not  be 
wanted.  Thin  the  fruits  freely  and  early  in  all 
later  houses,  leaving  the  most  e\en  and  those  in 
the  best  position  for  sun  and  light. 

Figs  growing  freely  will  require  careful  atten- 
tion as  regards  moisture  at  the  roots,  which  must 
not  be  allowed  to  get  in  too  dry  a  condition,  as 
this  might  result  in  the  dropping  of  the  fruits. 
When  the  latter  are  approaching  the  ripening 
stage  less  syringing  is  necessary ;  be  content 
with  damping  the  surroundings  with  the  water- 
pot.  To  encourage  a  suooessional  crop  of  fruit 
pinch  some  of  the  current  year's  shoots  at  four 
to  six  leaves  ;  this  tends  to  the  formation  of 
fruit  and  preserves  the  trees  in  a  uniform  state. 
If  the  roots  are  much  restricted,  give  copious 
supplies  of  liquid  manure  and  mulch  the  soil 
over  the  roots  with  manure  :  but  this  and  the  use 
of  artificial  compounds  must  be  more  or  less 
regulated  according  to  the  strength  of  the  wood. 
Frame  Melons. — These  to  ripen  good  fruit 
require  very  careful  attention  at  all  times.  The 
growths  must  be  kept  well  and  regularly  thinned 
and  the  young  fruiting  shoots  stopped  one  or  two 
joints  above  the  flowers.  When  a  good  number 
of  blossonis  are  open  see  that  they  are  properly 
fertilised,  air  a  little  more  freely  and  keep  the 
foliage  drier.  Those  which  have  set  and  are 
swelling  nicely  may  be  pushed  forward  by  closing 
and  damping  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  the 
lining  of  the  frames  may  be  renewed  with  a  little 
fresh  fermenting  material. 

Tomatoes. — As  the  fruits  begin  to  change 
colour,  remove  them  to  lighten  the  crop  and  to 
give  the  plants  a  better  chance  to  keep  on 
bearing.  When  growing  in  pots  and  the  soil  is 
getting  exhausted,  feed  liberally  and  do  not  let 
the  roots  suffer  from  dryness,  otherwise  white 
fly  may  become  exceedingly  troublesome. 
Plants  Under  Glass. 
Agapanthus.  —  These  in  tubs  require  very 
liberal  feeding  and  abundance  of  water  to  en- 
courage them  to  bloom  well  and  to  build  up 
strength  for  the  following  season.  They  are 
very  gross-feeding  plants  and  form  immense 
quantities  of  fleshy  roots,  so  that  when  potting 
they  require  great  care  to  avoidjdamage. 

Cyclamen.  —  These     will    have    passed    their 
flowering  and  the  pots  probably  be  standing  in  cold 
frames.      The   tubers,    however,   should   not  be 
altogether  neglected   and    allowed    to  get    too 
shrivelled  by  the  strong  sunshine.     A  cool  frame 
and   the    pots    stood   on   ashes   is   a   very   good 
position  for  the  present.     Young  seedlings  may 
be   potted  on  in  a  little  turfy  loam  and  peat, 
with  plenty  of  sand,  and  do  not  pot  too  deeply. 
H.  Mabkham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Barnet. 


FOB    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Conservatory  and  Greenhouse. 
Climbing  Plants.  — These  are  of  great  importance 
to  the  floral  embellishment  of  lofty  structures, 
and  if  their  introduction  and  planting  is  con- 
templated, the  present  is  a  most  suitable 
season  to  carry  this  into  effect.  For  a 
rooting  medium  a  good  holding  loam,  that 
has  been  stacked  long  enough  to  allow  of  the 
partial  decay  of  the  root-fibres  it  contained, 
thus  avoiding  undue  shrinkage  of  the  bulk  when 
in  position,  should  form  the  staple,  to  which 
might  be  added  a  small  amount  of  well-pulverised, 
but  not  exhausted,  manure,  and  sufficient  lime- 
rubble  and  coarse  sand  to  ensure  the  necessary 
porosity.  Where  possible,  the  roots  of  the  less 
vigorous-growing  species  are  best  confined  to 
separate  compartments,  to  prevent  exoessiveappro- 
priation  of  nutriment  by  others  more  robust. 
Ample  drainage  and  a  firm  root-run  are  essential 
to  success. 

Plants  for  Goal  Houses. — The  following  will 
thrive  in  a  structure  where  frost  is  excluded, 
and  are  free  in  growth  combined  with  great  and 
varied  beauty  both  in  flower  and  foliage  :  Man- 
devilla,  Tecoraa,  Plumbago,  Tacsonia,  Habro- 
thamnus,  Clianthus,  Cassia,  Stauntouia  and 
Lapageria,  the  last  requiring  peaty  soil  and  a 
position  shaded  in  summer.  To  these  may  be 
added  Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  Roses  in  great  variety, 
while  some  of  the  loose-habited  Camellias  are 
excellent  for  covering  back  walls  and  revel  in 
shade  and  moisture. 

In  Heated  Structures  where  a  temperature  of 
about  .30°  is  maintained,  such  beautiful  subjects 
as  Passiflora  quadrangularis  and  P.  prineeps, 
Luculia  gratissima,  Bougainvillea,  Jasminum 
hirsutum  and  J.  primulinum,  and  the  slender- 
growing,  quaint-flowering  Rhodoehiton  volubile 
will  all  succeed.  For  these  a  compost  of  loam 
and  peat  in  equal  parts,  to  which  some  charcoal 
is  added,  is  better  than  the  heavier  material  alone. 

Stove  Plants  will  now  be  growing  freely  and 
close  attention  must  be  paid  to  shading,  more 
especially  during  sudden  gleams  of  sunshine 
after  several  dull  days.  Water  freely  applied 
about  the  stages,  walls,  and  pipes  will  generate 
a  growing  atmosphere  and  considerably  reduce 
the  need  of  frequent  supplies  upon  the  soil. 
Anthuriums  are  among  the  most  conspicuous 
plants  in  flower  at  this  time,  and  as  the  blooms 
are  very  lasting,  it  is  not  advisable  to  allow 
them  to  remain  upon  the  plants  when  their  first 
flush  of  beauty  is  past,  as  when  cut  and  placed  in 
water  they  continue  fresh  for  a  considerable  time, 
and  the  plants  being  thus  relieved  are  enabled  to 
recuperate. 

Eucharis  amazonica  generally  flowers  best  when 
root-bound ;  but  this  if  carried  to  excess  may  end 
in  starvation  and  gradual  weakening  of  the  bulbs. 
If  repotting  is  decided  on,  the  best  time  for 
doing  so  is  after  the  plants  have  flowered  and 
been  rested  for  a  few  weeks,  when  disturbance  j  ust 
before  growth  again  commences  will  have  less 
injurious  effects  than  at  any  other  time. 

Pancratiums  that  have  finished  growth  may  be 
kept  rather  drier  at  the  roots,  which  will  conduce 
to  earlier  flowering  as  well  as  the  more  lengthy 
season  of  these  fragrant-scented  subjects.  The 
best  potting  mixture  for  these  and  Eucharis  is 
loam  and  sand.  Pot  firmly  and  apply  water 
very  sparingly  until  the  plants  are  again  estab- 
lished. Crotons  and  Dracaenas  propagated  in  early 
spring  will  require  repotting  from  time  to  time, 
using  a  rich  compost  of  loam,  peat  and  decayed 
leaves.  These  are  best  placed  in  a  group  so  that 
syringing  may  be  freely  practised,  whereby  insect 
pests  are  kept  in  check  and  growth  encouraged. 
The  former  may  be  gradually  inured  to  full  sun- 
light, as  the  rich  colourings  of  the  leaves  are  thus 
intensified.  Dracaenas,  on  the  other  hand,  require 
shade  during  the  summer. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

OaUeway  House,  Oarliesioji,  Ifigtowtishire. 


May  22,  1909 


THE    GARDEN. 


259 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


Sweet  Pbas  from  Winchestek. 
Mr.  Donald  Grant,  Compton  End,  Winchester, 
sends  us  good  flowers  of  several  varieties  of  Sweet 
Peas,  these  being  most  welcome  so  early  in  the 
season.  He  writes,  on  May  6  :  "  I  am  sending 
you  some  Sweet  Peas  from  the  open.  They  were 
put  out  on  March  .31  when  about  3  feet  6  inches 
high,  and  now  they  are  nearly  6  feet  high  and 
very  strong.  They  are  all  good  sorts  and  there 
are  nearly  thirty  varieties,  but  they  have  not  all 
begun  to  bloom  yet.  The  stalks  are  firmer  and 
longer  than  is  usual  in  the  summer. " 

St.  Brigid  Anemones  from  Ireland. 
Messrs.  Reamsbottom  and  Co.,  Alderborough 
Nursery,  Geashill,  King's  County,  send  us  a  mag- 
nificent contribution  composed  of  St.  Brigid 
Anemones,  all  the  beautiful  colours  usually  found 
among  these  flowers  being  included.  These  are 
the  finest  and  beat  St.  Brigid  Anemones  we 
have  ever  seen  gathered  from  the  open,  and  the 
strain  and  culture  must  both  be  of  the  highest 
quality. 

Onciditjm  lancbauum. 
An  exceptionally  fine  variety  of  this  beautiful 
Orchid  has  been  sent  by  Mr.  H.  A.  Page,  The 
Gardens,  Belsize  Court,  Hampstead.  The  spike 
carried  many  blooms  of  fine  colouring,  the  sepals 
and  petals  deep  gold,  thickly  covered  with  brown 
spots,  and  the  lip  light  purple,  deepening  in  the 
centre  to  an  intense  violet.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  forms  we  have  seen  of  this  Orchid. 


A  Beautiful  Narcissus. 
A  very  beautiful  Narcissus  comes  from  Mr.  F. 
Herbert  Chapman,  Guldeford  Lodge,  Rye,  one 
of  our  most  enthusiastic  amateur  gardeners ; 
this  Narcissus  is  called  May-day,  and  belongs  to 
the  Poeticus  section.  The  flower  is  of  remarkable 
substance  and  of  bright. colour.  As  our  corre- 
spondent remarks  :  "By  this  post  I  send  a  few 
flowers  of  Narcissus  Poeticus  May-day.  It  is  a 
very  brightly  coloured  flower,  and  coming  into 
bloom  in  an  ordinary  season  about  May  1 ,  usefully 
flUs  up  the  gap  between  the  earlier-flowering 
Poeticus  and  Poeticus  recurvus. " 


of  all  is  Leedsii  Gem.  The  flower  is  of  a  delicate 
colour  which  is  surely  unsurpassed.  We  thank 
Mr.  Barr  very  much  indeed  for  sending  such  a 
selection. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


Daffodils  and  Polyanthuses  from  Mk.  Peter 
Barr. 
It  is  with  considerable  pleasure  that  we 
have  received  some  excellent  Polyanthuses 
and  a  further  lot  of  Narcissi  from  Mr.  Peter 
Barr,  V.M.H.,  who,  as  most  gardening  enthu- 
siasts know,  makes  the  collecting  and  growing 
of  Primroses  of  all  sorts  a  hobby  at  his  Scottish 
home.  Among  the  Narcissi  were  a  host  of  the 
beautiful  incomparabilis  section,  a  few  of  the 
most  beautiful  being  Lulworth,  scarlet  cup  and 
creamy  white  perianth ;  Cynosure,  similar  but 
longer  cup  and  golden  yellow  perianth  ;  Hogarth, 
large  yellow  cup  and  paler  narrow  perianth 
segments ;  Stella  ;  and  Stella  superba.  Among 
the  large  trumpet  sorts  were  such  as  J.  B.  M. 
Camm,  Mrs.  Camm,  Monarch,  Mme.  Plemp, 
Admiral  Togo,  Maximus,  Mrs.  Walter  Ware, 
Millie  Barr,  P.  R.  Barr  and  many  other  beautiful 
sorts.  Mr.  Barr  has  just  sent  us  another  very 
welcome  box  of  Daffodils,  comprising  Barrii 
Princess  of  Wales,  incomparabilis  Princess  Mary, 
i.  Gloria  Mundi,  Barrii  conspicuus,  Leedsii 
Duchess  of  Westminster,  L.  Minnie  Hume, 
Barrii  Maurice  Vilmorin,  Leedsii  Katherine 
Spurrell,  L.  Mrs.  Langtry,  L.  White  Lady, 
L.  amabilis,  incomparabilis  Lulworth,  Poeticus 
angustifolius,  P.  Elvira,  Nelsoni  minor,  N. 
major,  incomparabilis  James  Bateman,  Burbidgei 
Baroness  Heath,  incomparabilis  Stella  superba 
and  Barrii  Sensation.  Some  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  rarest  of  the  Poeticus  forms  are  comprised 
among  these,  especially  Poeticus  Almira,  P.  Cas- 
sandra and  P.  praecox  ;  but  one  of  the  sweetest 


SCHIZANTHUS  FROM  ChELSEA. 
Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons.,  Limited, 
King's  Road,  Chelsea,  send  us  beautiful  examples 
of  their  selected  strain  of  these  charming  green- 
house plants.  The  size  of  the  flowers  and  the 
various  colour  shades  are  a  delight,  and  the 
value  of  these  plants  ought  to  be  more  fully 
recognised  than  it  is  at  present.  Messrs.  Veitch 
write  :  "  We  have  pleasure  in  sending  herewith 
a  few  blooms  of  our  strain  of  Schizanthus 
(Veitch's  Grandiflorus  Hybrids).  They  not  only 
make  excellent  pot  plants,  but  are  also  fine  for 
cutting. " 

Flowers  From  Scotland. 
Dr.  McWatt,  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B  ,  sends 
some  interesting  flowers,  and  the  blue  Poly- 
anthuses were  of  great  merit,  the  colouring  as 
pure  as  anything  we  have  seen ;  the  same 
remark  applies  to  the  Primroses.  Dr.  McWatt 
writes  :  "  No  doubt  Primroses  and  Polyanthuses 
deteriorate  after  the  second  year  and  should  be 
renewed.  I  think  the  flowers  are  always  best 
the  first  year,  as  these  are.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  in  heat  in  early  spring  and  the  seedlings 
should  be  pinched  out  about  this  time,  and  then 
one  has  large  flowering  plants  next  year.  They 
do  well  in  moderate  shade  ;  the  ground  should 
be  rich  and  not  too  dry. " 


Hybrid  Saxifrages  from  Wales. 
Mr.  Lloyd  Edwards,  Bryn  Oerog,  near  Llangol- 
len, sends  a  beautiful  collection  of  hybrid  Saxi- 
frages, the  colour  and  size  of  which  call  for  the 
highest  praise.  Our  correspondent  writes  :  "  I  am 
sending  flowers  of  my  new  hybrid  Saxifrages 
for  your  table.  I  have  been  working  at  them  for 
some  years  and  have  succeeded  far  beyond  my 
expectations,  having  all  shades  from  pure  white 
to  deepest  blood  red.  The  weather  has  been  so 
very  sunny  and  the  east  wind  so  drying  for  the 
last  week  that  they  are  not  quite  at  their  best, 
but  you  can  see  how  beautiful  they  must  be  in 
masses.  Some  have  very  large  flowers,  sueh  as 
Trevor  Giant,  which  I  am  sending  you.  My 
largest  red  one.  Red  Admiral,  for  which  I  received 
a  certificate  from  the  Shrewsbury  Horticultural 
Society  last  spring,  is  over.  It  is  larger  than  a 
shilling.  I  think  the  great  fascination  about 
these  Saxifrages  lies  in  their  variety.  I  should 
think  I  have  fifty  really  diiferent  good  ones.  I 
am  sending  Saxifraga  hybrida  White  Queen ; 
Trevor  seedling  Apple  Blossom,  which  is  lovely 
for  bedding ;  Trevor  Giant,  blush  with  pink 
buds  ;  rubra  sanguinea,  which  looks  like  drops 
of  blood  in  the  sun ;  and  several  pencilled  and 
eyed  ones  not  yet  named.  I  also  send  a  bunch  of 
Aubrietia  Lloyd  Edwards,  picked  in  full  sun, 
where  we  have  it  for  bedding.  I  have  been  years 
selecting  it,  and  this  one  has  stood  all  the  long 
spell  of  sun  and  east  wind  and  drought  without 
losing  its  colour. " 

Flowering  Shrubs  from  Woking. 
Mr.  Anthony  Waterer,  Kjiapp  Hill  Nursery, 
Woking,  Surrey,  sends  us  a  delightful  collection 
of  spring-flowering  shrubs,  which  remind  us  very 
forcibly  of  the  decorative  value  of  these  at  the 
present  season.  Among  those  that  specially 
appealed  to  us  were  Pyrus  Malua  Scheideckeri, 
P.  M.  Neidwitzkiana  (flowers  deep  old  rose 
colour),  P.  M.  alba  pleno,  Cydonia  japonioa 
cardinalis  (very  brilliant  large  flowers),  C.  j. 
Knapp  Hill  Scarlet,  C.  j.  Simonii  (nearly 
crimson  in  colour),  Prunus  sinensis  flore-pleno, 
P.  H.  J.  Veitch,  P.  japouica  multiplex,  the 
Knapp  Hill  variety  of  the  Bird  Cherry  (P. 
Padus),  Spirsea  Exoohorda  grandiflora  and  the 
beautiful  double  mauve  Lilac  Leon  Simon. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  AnswePS.— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Gabseh  helpful  to  aU  readers  aho  deeire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
** Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THB 
Qakdbn,  iO,  Tavistock  Street,  Cement  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  (o  the  Pdblisheie. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Crown  Imperials  (Colmel  A.  a.).— The 
good  flowering  of  these  Fritillaries  depends  upon 
the  bulbs  being  well  established  and  their  indi- 
vidual size.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  6  inches 
or  8  inches  deep,  and  the  soil  be  moderately 
heavy  though  well  drained.  Generally  speaking, 
the  Crown  Imperials  are  partial  to  rather  heavy 
soils,  lime-charged  soils  particularly  ;  and  given 
generous  treatment  otherwise,  with  liberal  room 
for  development,  they  will  be  found  to  succeed 
in  due  time.  Small  and  medium  sized  bulbs  may 
require  two  or  three  years  to  become  established. 

Double  Primroses  (Quarry).  —  Yes, 
these  things  may  be  divided  as  soon  as  the 
flowering  is  over,  breaking  the  tufts  into  single 
crowns,  provided  each  crown  has  its  comple- 
ment of  root  fibres.  Some  care  will  be  neces- 
sary for  a  short  time  in  shading  and  watering, 
and  your  greatest  chances  of  success  will  be  by 
planting  on  a  north  border  in  well-dug  and 
fairly  rich  ground.  These  Primroses  are  very 
partial  to  soot- water  applied  overhead  in  the 
evening,  and  weak  liquid  manure  may  be 
similarly  applied  from  time  to  time  with 
advantage. 

Green  Daffodil  {D.  L.  Wadhamy—The 

bloom  submitted  is  most  interesting,  and 
evidently,  from  your  description  of  its  surround- 
ings, is  either  a  sport  or  a  seedling  that  has  taken 
on  a  green  colour.  Unfortunately,  the  perianth 
was  so  shrivelled  when  it  reached  us  that  we 
are  unable  to  judge  of  its  colour  and  shape,  but 
should  say  it  was  a  form  of  the  Old  English 
Pseudo-Narcissus.  The  green  in  the  trumpet 
is  striking,  and  we  cannot  remember  having  seen 
such  a  thing  before.  Would  it  be  possible  to 
send  us  a  bulb  to  grow  or  to  send  two  or  three 
fresh  flowers  next  year  ?  The  green  in  flowers 
when  ordinarily  we  expect  colour  is,  of  course,  a 
reminder  of  their  morphological  value,  namely, 
that  the  different  parts  are  modified  leaves.  The 
appearance  of  green  then  is  a  sort  of  reversion 
to  type 

Daffodils  and  fruit  trees  (S.  B. 
Cork). — The  mere  fact  of  planting  Daffodil  bulbs 
among  fruit  trees  does  not  conduce  to  canker  in 
the  trees  any  more  than  would  planting  other 
low-growing  things ;  but  the  fact  which,  in 
certain  cases,  conduces  to  canker  on  the  part  of 
the  trees  is  that,  owing  to  the  surface  soil  being 
cropped,  it  is  not  possible  to  keep  it  cultivated 
and  clean  and  to  manure  it  in  the  same  way 
that  such  cleaning  and  manuring  can  be  done 
when  the  ground  is  not  so  cropped ;  hence  the 
tree  roots,  for  lack  of  this  manuring  or  feeding, 
and  also  because  the  surface  crop  is  robbing  the 
tree  roots  of  what  food  they  should  find  in  the 
surface  soil,  are  forced  to  go  deep  into  sour  or  poor 
soil,  and  it  is  then  that  canker  follows.  Fruit 
trees  to  be  kept  healthy  should  have  clear  soil 
about  them  and  be  occasionally  surface  manured 
to  encourage  roots  to  run  freely  in  the  sweet 
surface  soil. 


260 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  22,  li>oy. 


Daffodil  fop  inspection  {G.  Grovel— The  Daffodil 
is  simply  a  weakling,  and  we  see  nothing  which  approaches 
to  the  Iris  in  its  flower.  The  few  green  inner  petals  may 
be  the  result  of  check,  cold  nights  or  some  deficient 
element  of  the  soil.  The  tree  of  which  you  send  flowers 
might  he  the  Sycamore  ;  but  why  not  give  us  better 
material  ? 

Daffodil  fop  naming*  (<?.  Brown).— The  variety  is 
Wm.  Wilka  and  is  not  often  met  with  now.  It  is  by 
no  means  a  novelty,  and  the  three-flowered  scape  in 
the  Daffodil  is  not  uncommon ;  indeed,  a  large 
number  of  sorts  take  on  this  kind  of  freak  in  turn  and 
rarely,  if  ever,  repeat  it.  The  foliage  is  quite  of  an 
abnormal  character  for  the  variety  in  question,  and 
another  year  both  this  and  the  flowering  may  be  again 
quite  normal.    It  is  of  no  commercial  value  whatever. 

Hyacinth  not  floweping*  (Bijacintk).  —  There 
have  been  a  good  many  complaints  about  Hyacinths  not 
flowering  this  year.  For  some  reason  they  have  not 
ripened  properly  in  Holland,  or  they  have  been  harvested 
too  soon.  Either  of  these  would  cause  the  flower-stalk  to 
behave  as  yours  did.  As  your  bulbs  were  grown  in  a 
window-box,  it  may  be  that  you  have  unintentionally 
allowed  the  soil  to  get  too  dry.  This  would  also  cause  the 
spike  to  become  abortive.  Perhaps  you  will  be  able  to 
remember  if  this  happened  or  not,  and  if  it  did  you  have 
in  all  probability  the  cause. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Information  about  Lilacs  (Hobby). 

It  is  not  necessary  to  graft  your  Lilac  bushes  to 
get  them  to  flower.  Perhaps  the  wood  is  not 
strong  enough  to  flower.  We  advise  you  to  thin 
out  all  weak  wood  and  reduce  the  number  of 
young  growths  on  the  main  branches.  This 
will  allow  of  all  the  vigour  of  the  plant  being 
put  into  the  remaining  branches,  which  will 
result  in  stronger  wood.  If  you  do  the  work  at 
once,  the  wood  will  probably  become  strong 
enough  to  flower  next  year.  The  best  thing  to 
do  with  your  Rhododendrons  is  to  cut  them  hard 
back  at  once.  You  can  cut  them  into  the  hard 
wood,  but  they  will  look  very  rough  until  new 
growths  appear  to  hide  the  wounds.  The  ends 
of  the  cut  branches  ought  to  be  turned  over  to 
protect  the  wounds  while  they  are  healing. 

Name  and  tpeatment  of  a  shpub  (A.  B.).— 
The  specimen  you  send  is  Pieria  (Andromeda)  japonica. 
It  thrives  in  peaty  soil  or  in  loam  that  does  not  contain 
lime  in  any  appreciable  quantity.  Similar  culture  in 
-every  respect  to  that  given  to  Rhododendrons  suits  it 
admirably.  Practically  no  pruning  is  required  save  the 
removal  of  the  flower-heads  as  soon  as  the  flowers  fade,  so 
that  seeds  will  not  mature.  It  is  a  mistake  to  give  it 
manure  or  richly  manured  soil.  A  much  better  practice 
is  to  give  it  a  top-dressing  of  half-rotted  leaves  in  May. 
This  will  tend  to  keep  the  upper  roots  about  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  which  is  a  very  necessary  item,  and  to  check 
■excessive  evaporation  of  the  moisture  in  the  soil. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Appan^lng:  narrow  inside  bor- 
ders [Jerseyifvin). — The  better  way  to  treat 
the  borders,  if  you  follow  out  the  rockery  idea, 
would  be  to  arrange  some  false  pockets  where 
such  flowering  plants  as  Cyclamen,  Shortia, 
Primula  sinensis.  Cinerarias  of  sorts,  Hyacinths, 
UaSbdils  and  Tulips  could  be  employed.  By 
growing  a  number  of  pot  plants  of  the  above, 
the  flowering  plants  could  often  be  changed  and 
■a  better  effect  secured.  Pots  of  Crocus  might  also 
be  employed,  together  with  Roman  Hyacinths, 
Lily  of  the  Valley  and  other  things.  Useful 
Ferns  for  the  same  might  include  Pteris  scaberula 
and  other  species,  Adiantum  Capillua-veneris, 
A.  cuneatum,  Asplenium  bulbiferum  and  others. 
Such  a  winter-flowering  Begonia  as  Gloire  de 
Lorraine  should  prove  invaluable,  and  small 
plants  arranged  among  other  things  would  be 
very  charming.  The  hardy  Selaginellas  would 
be  found  most  useful. 

Name  and  tpeatment  of  an  Opchtd  {Mrs.  C. ). 
The  name  of  the  Orchid  of  which  you  enclose  pseudo- 
bulbs  is  Ccelogyne  cristata,  which  in  the  ordinary  course  of 
events  should  have  flowered  in  January  or  February.  The 
best  time  for  repotting  is  early  in  March ;  but  as  your 
plants  certainly  need  potting,  we  advise  you  to  do  it  at 
once.  Deep  pans  rather  than  pots  are  the  best  receptacles 
for  this  Coelogyne  ;  but  if  you  have  only  pots  available,  an 
extra  amount  of  broken  crocks  must  be  placed  in  the 
bottom.  Even  if  pans  are  used  the  drainage  must  be 
ample.  A  suitable  compost  is  Osniunda  fibre  or  good 
fibrous  peat,  with  some  sphagnum  and  sharp  silver  sand 
well  mixed  together.  In  potting  especial  care  is  necessary 
not  to  bury  the  rhizomes  or  pseudo-bulbs  too  deeply,  and 
if  necessary  they  may  be  held  in  position  by  a  peg  or  two. 


After  potting  care  must  be  taken  not  to  over-water,  but 
when  growing  freely  a  liberal  amount  of  water  must  be 
given  and  a  moist  growing  atmosphere  maintained.  At 
that  time  a  structure  with  a  minimum  temperature  of  60° 
will  be  very  suitable  for  the  plants.  When  growth  is 
completed  it  may  be  kept  somewhat  cooler  and  drier  in 
order  to  ripen  the  pseudo-bulbs.  Ccelogyne  cristata  is  one 
of  the  commonest  and  cheapest  of  Orchids,  and  we  fear 
that  you  will  find  a  difliculty  in  exchanging  your  plants. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Peach    tree     leaves    pepfopated 

[Perplexed). — The  leaves  received  are  small,  thin 
and  lacking  in  substance,  making  them  an  easy 
prey  to  any  adverse  conditions  they  may  be 
exposed  to,  and  plainly  showing  that  your  tree 
is  far  from  being  in  a  vigorous  state  of  health 
The  leaves  are  quite  free  from  insect  pests,  and,  as 
regards  the  perforation  of  the  leaves,  we  can  only 
suggest  what  the  cause  of  this  has  been  by  our 
own  experience  in  the  matter.  The  most  frequent 
cause,  we  think,  is  from  the  application  of  some 
fumigating  compounH  in  too  strong  a  dose.  A 
spell  of  hot  sunshine  bursting  on  the  tree 
in  early  morning  when  the  foliage  is  damp 
and  the  house  unventilated  has  been  known 
to  cause  it.  Cheap  and  bad  glass  has  often 
been  responsible  for  the  same  thing,  and, 
incredible  as  it  may  seem,  many  of  our  best 
gardeners  will  have  it  that  plants  of  Humea 
elegans  growing  near  the  trees  will  produce 
the  same  result.  In  order  to  help  to  im- 
prove the  health  and  strength  of  your  tree 
during  summer,  we  suggest  that  you  remove 
some  of  the  surface  soil,  say,  to  the  depth  of 
3  inches,  without  exposing  the  surface  roots  too 
much,  replacing  it  with  a  mixture  of  good  loam, 
adding  to  every  barrow-load  two  pecks  of  horse- 
manure  as  prepared  fresh  for  a  Mushroom  bed, 
half  a  gallon  of  bone-dust  and  the  same  of 
quicklime,  applying  the  mixture  over  the  roots  as 
far  as  they  extend  and  4  inches  deep,  treading  it 
well  down.  You  will  find  that  this  new  soil  will 
in  a  very  short  time  be  alive  with  new  and  very 
active  roots,  which  should  again  receive  a 
dressing  of  2  inches  of  similar  mixture  in  a 
month's  time.  You  will  find  that  this  treatment 
will  not  only  help  to  swell  your  crop  of  fruit  to 
greater  perfection,  bu  t  will  also  give  new 
vigour  to  your  tree. 

Japg:onelIe  Peap  tpee  on  a  south-west 
wall  not  beaplng  fpuit  (C.  5.).— The  Jargonelle 
Pear  is  distinguished  from  many  other  varieties  by  the  fact 
that  it  mostly  bears  fruit  on  the  end  of  its  shoots,  and 
this  should  be  borne  in  mind  at  the  time  of  pruning— that 
is  to  say,  the  terminal  shoot  should  not  be  shortened,  or 
the  side  shoot  spurred  back  as  is  usually  the  case  in  pruning 
most  Pear  trees,  but  left  its  whole  length,  depending  on 
the  judicious  and  free  thinning  of  the  branches  to  prevent 
overcrowding  and  to  preserve  the  proper  balance  of  the 
tree.  Growing  as  your  tree  does  in  light  soil  (the  Pear 
prefers  a  rather  heavy  loam),  the  healthy  and  fertile 
development  of  the  fruit-buds  would  be  greatly  assisted 
by  a  mulch  4  inches  deep  of  rotten  manure  placed  on 
the  surface  of  the  soil  as  far  as  the  roots  extend,  with 
an  occasional  copious  watering  of  liquid  manure  during 
the  summer. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Book  on  Fpench  g-apdeningr  (?"-  ^-  C., 
Beckenham).—"  The  French  Garden,"  by  0.  D.  McKay, 
price  6d.  net,  from  the  Daily  Mail  office,  is  a  good  book 
on  the  subject  and  will  give  you  the  information  you 
require. 

Bcnployment  In  the  Colonies  {Mr.  K.  Wehrli). 
It  is  dirticult  to  give  you  the  information  you  require, 
but  you  would,  perhaps,  be  able  to  obtain  it  from  the 
Swiss  Consul,  n2,  Lexham  Gardens,  W. ;  or  you  may  be 
able  to  ol>tain  it  from  the  Secretary,  Soci6t6  Frangaise 
d'Horticulture  de  Londres,  66,  Long  Acre,  London,  W.C. 
Failing  these  places,  you  might  write  to  Mr.  James 
Leighton,  nurseryman,  Victoria  Gardens,  King  Williams- 
town,  South  Africa.  The  latter  gentleman  may  be  able 
to  offer  you  employment,  or  be  able  to  put  you  in  the  way 
of  obtaining  it. 

Sample  of  peat  soil  {W.  H.  TT.).— Your  peat 
sample  ia  by  no  means  a  good  one  for  potting  purposes, 
as  it  partakes  more  of  the  nature  of  bog  soil  than  of  peat. 
Good  peat  has  much  fibre  in  it,  and  is  really  a  product 
of  decaying  vegetation.  Your  soil,  however,  might  be 
materially  improved  for  potting  purposes  were  it  run 
through  a  fairly  coarse  sieve  to  remove  from  it  the  hard 
bog  soil  lumps,  as  that  material  is  of  a  binding  or  plastic 
nature.  What  is  left  of  the  finer  matter  is  more  fibrous. 
If  used  in  the  proportion  of  one-fourth  to  one-fourth  of 
leaf-soil,  old  hot-bed  manure,   sharp  sand  and  a  little 


bone-meal,  the  other  two-fourths  being  good  pasture  or 
turfy  loam,  then  a  compost  that  would  grow  bulhs  or 
plants  of  any  description  should  result.  For  greenhouse 
Ferns,  Camellias,  Azaleas  or  Rhododendrons  the  propor- 
tion of  peat  might  be  one-third. 

UsiniT  liquid  sewage  (E.  T.  r.). -Certainly  a 
grave  mistake  is  being  made  by  casting  a  great  quantity 
of  house  sewage,  say,  some  fifteen  to  twenty  gallons  daily, 
over  a  stiff,  clayey,  retentive  soil.  Were  it  a  very  porous, 
sandy  soil,  little  harm  would  be  done,  as  the  liquid  would 
quickly  percolate  away.  But  with  such  soil  as  yours  the 
effect  of  such  constant  daily  floodings  is  to  cause  the  soil 
to  become  sodden  and  choked  with  liquid,  so  that  air 
cannot  penetrate  into  it  and  must,  therefore,  become  sour. 
Cannot  you  use  any  of  this  excessive  daily  quantity  of 
sewage  on  shrubs  or  trees  or  on  grass  orchards ;  indeed, 
anywhere  rather  than  on  garden  soil  which  has  to  be 
cropped?  By  keepine  it  so  wet,  no  chance  is  given  it  to 
become  sweetened  and  pulverised  ready  to  receive  seeds  ; 
indeed,  we  should  expect  that  seeds  sown  on  it  would  die 
in  the  soil  rather  than  grow.  In  hot,  dry  weather  liquid 
sewage  may  be  used  on  growing  crops  with  advantage ; 
but  using  it  now  on  fallow  land,  such  as  yours  is, 
is  to  do  very  great  harm.  Some  other  way  of  disposing  of 
it  should  be  provided. 

Names  of  plants.— B.  T.  K— Prunus  Padus  (the 

Bird  Cherry). Rev.    F.    r«Wfi/.  —  Aubrietia  deltoides 

variety. Domet.—l^  Lonicera  sempervirens  ;  2,  Nar- 
cissus incoroparabilis  (Butter  and  Eggs). H.  G.  G  — 

Brodijca  uniflora  and  Coleus  Northern  "^tar. C.  Preutis. 

— Probably  a  species  of  Dolichos. W.  Colli iis. — Aucuba 

japonica. 3/r.s.    Berivick.  —  Narcissus    incomparabiUs 

(Butter  and   Egg«). M.  A.— I,  Erica  lusitanica  (codo- 

nodes) ;  2,  E.  arborea ;  3,  Cephalotaxus  Fortunei ;  4, 
Callistemon  satienus  ;  5,  Spirtea  arguta  ;  6,  Lotus  Bertho- 
lettii.- — -Brajfdon.—l,  Cydonia  japonica;   2,   Euphorbia 

amygdaloides ;  .3,  Forsythia  suspensa ;  4,  Pi^ea  excelsa. 

C.  L.— Rubu9  spectabilis. .4.  A.  f/.— Spirtea  prunifolia 

flore-pleno  and  Lonicera  tatarica. 


SOCIETIES. 


CROYDON  HORTICULTURAL  MUTUAL  IMPROVE- 
MENT  SOCIETY. 
The  ninth  annual  spring  flower  show  in  connexion  with 
the  Croydon  District  Horticultural  Mutual  Improvement 
Society  was  held  recently.  The  aim  of  the  society  is  to 
foster  a  love  of  horticulture  among  the  public,  and  this  is 
being  achieved  more  and  more  every  year,  thanks  to  the 
endeavours  of  the  indefatigable  secretary,  Mr.  Harry 
Boshier,  who  is  ably  backed  up  by  an  enthusiastic  and 
excellent  working  committee,  consisting  of  Messrs.  W. 
Bentley.  F.  Oxtobv,  M.  E.  Mills,  A.  Edwards,  W.  Rowson, 
J.  Gregory.  D.  J.  Ricketts  and  H.  B.  Wilson.  The  exhibi- 
tion on  this  occasion  was  quite  up  to  the  usual  standard, 
aud  the  hall  was  visited  by  large  numbers  throughout  the 
afternoon  and  evening.  In  the  private  exhibits,  Mr.  David 
Nicol  of  Park  Hill  Road  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Bentley),  had  a 
splendid  group  composed  of  Schizanthus  and  Tobacco 
Plants  with  Ferns,  Palms,  Azaleas  and  Crinum.  Mr. 
Frank  Lloyd  of  Coombe  House  (gardener,  Mr.  M.  E.  Mills), 
also  had  a  very  fine  show  of  Schizanthus  wisetonenaia 
backed  up  with  purple  Prunus.  Mrs.  Matthews  of  Anerley 
(gardener,  Mr.  C.  Thrower)  staged  a  magnificent  spscimen 
of  Azalea,  which  was  much  admired.  A  miscellaneous 
group  composed  of  Calceolarias  and  Primulas  was  shown 
by  Mr.  Douglas  Young  of  Stratballan  (gardener,  Mr.  George 
Sharp).  Mr.  J.  J.  Reed  of  Coombe  Lodge  (gardener,  Mr. 
F.  Oxtoby),  the  president  of  the  society,  staged  a  fine 
group  of  Beauty  Stocks  with  Palms  and  Ferns.  These  are 
quite  a  new  departure,  and  were  much  inspected  by  the 
visitors.  Mr.  J.  Pascall  of  Ambleside,  Addiscombe 
(gardener,  Mr.  A.  Edwards),  had  a  miscellaneous  group  of 
plants,  inclading  Calceolarias,  Schizanthus  and  double 
Cinerarias.  Cineraria  stellata,  Coleus  and  Orchids  were 
shown  by  Mr.  Otto  Hehner  of  Woodside  House,  South 
Norwood  (gardener,  Mr.  C.  Wateridge);  while  Mr.  J. 
Stringer  of  Hope  Cottage,  Sumner  Road,  showed  a  splendid 
collection  of  Pansies,  which  deserve  special  mention,  con- 
sidering the  conditions  under  which  they  were  grown. 

In  the  trade  exhibits  Mr.  Thomas  Butcher  of  George 
Street  (Mr.  A  H.  Naylor)  staged  some  very  fine  Tulips, 
Narcissi,  Salvia  and  Azaleas,  backed  by  some  magnificent 
Palms. 

Messrs.  J.  R.  Box  of  Derby  Road,  West  Croydon,  had  a 
good  collection  of  Narcissi  and  Tulips  ;  while  Messrs.  J. 
Cheal  and  Son  of  Crawley  displayed  flowering  shrubs  and 
hardy  flowers,  including  Spiraea  arguta  multiflora. 

Mr.  W.  Harris  of  North  End  had  a  miscellaneous  group 
of  cut  flowers,  including  Carnations  and  Sweet  Peas  ; 
while  Messrs.  E.  W.  and  S.  Rogers,  Croydon,  staged  a 
capital  set  of  Tulips,  there  being  sixty  varieties. 

Messrs.  John  Peed  and  Son  of  West  Norwood  showed  a 
collection  of  alpine  plants,  backed  by  Clematis,  flowering 
and  ornamental  shrubs,  and  also  Carnations,  Cacti  and 
hardy  Primulas. 

UNITED    HORTICULTURAL    BENEFIT    AND 
PROVIDENT    SOCIETY. 

The  monthly  committee  meeting  of  this  society  was  held 
at  the  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster,  on 
Monday  evening.  May  10,  Mr.  Charles  H.  Curtis  in  the  ch«ir. 
Two  new  members  were  elected  and  one  nominated.  The 
death  certificate  of  the  late  Mr.  David  James  Nightingale 
was  produced  and  a  cheque  for  £45  5s.  5d.  (being  the 
amount  standing  to  the  late  member's  credit)  was  voted. 
The  amount  of  sick  pay  for  the  past  month  was  £65  7s. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  May  22nd,   1909. 


THE  NEW  WINTER-FLOWERING 
BEGONIA  CLIBRANS'  PINK. 


Hiidwn  &■  lu-aiiis,  Lid.,  PrniJcis,  Loitaou,  S. 


^3¥_ 


GARDEN. 

^^^^^# :! 


No.  1958.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


May  29,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Laburnhms 
..Votes  of  the  Week 
Forthcoming  events 
Mr.  Harry  J.  Veitch, 

V.M.H 

Hay  Tulips  at  Long 

Ditton     

Garden  Polyanthuses 

at  Camberley 
Gift   of    a   park    to 

Sheffield 

Flower    shows    at 

Birmingham  . .     . . 

Cokrespondknoe 

Artificial  manures  . . 

Modern  Daffodils 

A  gardening  society 

in     America     and 

Sweet  Com    , .     . , 

Spring    flowers    at 

Hampton  Court 
Eoses  and  Auriculas  at 

Slough 

Sea-sand  and  its  uses . . 
Rose  Oaeden 
Some      early      June 

Roses       

"  The  Scentless   and 
the  Scented  Rose" 
t'KniT  Oakden 
Fruit  notes       . .     . . 


261 

262 

262 

262 

262 

262 

262 

262 
262 

262 

263 

263 
264 

265 
265 
266 


Flower  Gakden 
Anemone     nemorosa 

robinsoniana  . .  . . 
Saxifraga  Clibranii  . . 
Chionodoxa    Lucilife 

alba 

Scilla     Lilio-Hyacin- 

thus  albus  .  . . 
Poetaz  Narcissi 


Gaksenino  for  Besimnbrs 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        268 

The    common     Sage 

and  its  culture  . .  268 
Mulches  and  when  to 

apply  them    ,.     ..     269 

The  Town  Gakden  ..  269 
Gardenibs  of  the  Week 
For    the  South   and 

South  Midlands  ..  270 
For  the   North   and 

North  Midlands  . .  270 

New  plants 270 

AH8WEE8     TO     CORRE- 
SPOBSENIB 

Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Rose  garden 
Greenhouse 
Kitchen  garden 
Miscellaneous  .. 


ILrLUSTRATIONS. 

Climbing  Roses  in  Mr.  Charles  Turner's  nurseries    . .  263 

The  new  Saxifraga  Clibranii      264 

The  rare  Scilla  Lilio-Hyacinthus  albus 266 

A  clump  of  Robinson's  Wood  Anemone 266 

Narcissus  Poetaz  Irene 267 

The  common  Sage  and  its  culture 268,  269 


BDITORIALi    NOTICBS. 

Every  department  of  hortiadtwre  is  represented  in  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  msh  adviee  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o)  their  assistance. 
AU  comrnunications  must  be  Vfritten  clewrly  on  one  side 
only  0}  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THE 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  oj  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  will  TUtt  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  utiU  endeavour  to  return  non-aocepted 
eontributi&ns.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  u-nderstood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  wUX  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
■or  literary  contributwms  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
<knd  the  receipt  of  a  vroof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
teill  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Ogkes:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Cwient  Garden,  W.C. 


THE    LABURNUMS. 

IT  is  doubtful  whether  any  ornamental- 
flowering  tree  is  more  widely  cultivated 
than  the  common  Laburnum,  for  it  is 
found  in  most  parts  of  the  country,  and  is 
popular  alike  in  large  and  small  gardens, 
while  it  succeeds  in  a  great  variety  of  soils  and 
under  widely  diverse  conditions,  and  rarely  fails 
to  bear  a  profusion  of  flewers  during  late  spring. 
It  is  not,  therefore,  to  this  plant  so  much  as  to 
its  numerous  varieties  and  one  or  two  other 
species  that  attention  is  directed  in  this  article, 
for  there  are  seveial  first-rate  sorts  that  are  grown 
far  less  frequently  than  they  ought  to  be.  Com- 
mencing with  the  common  Laburnum  (L.  vulgare), 
we  find  that  there  are  a  dozen  or  more  varieties. 
Some  of  these  are  unworthy  of  attention  except 
in  full  collections,  as  they  may  be  regarded  as 
monstrosities  rather  than  ornamental  garden 
plants ;  still,  there  are  several  that  are  well  worth 
noticing.  These  are  Alsohingeri,  Carlieri,  linne- 
anum  and  semperflorens,  all  of  which  are  dis- 
tinguished from  the  type  by  the  length  of  their 
racemes,  size  of  flowers  and  time  of  blossoming. 
Two  varieties  which  diff'er  from  the  type  in  habit 
or  foliage  are  pendulum,  with  weeping  branches, 
and  foliis  aureis,  with  golden  leaves.  Such 
varieties  as  involutum,  monstrosum  oristatum  and 
quercifolium  are  peculiar  by  reason  of  abnormal 
growth  and  contorted  foliage.  Of  more  im- 
portance than  the  varieties  of  L.  vulgare,  how- 
ever, we  have  the  Scotch  Laburnum  (L.  alpLnum). 
This,  like  the  common  Laburnum,  is  a  European 
plant,  and  it  is  distinguished  from  the  commoner 
plant  by  its  glossier  and  larger  foliage,  its  longer 
racemes  and  its  later  flowering  season.  Under 
favourable  conditions  it  forms  a  tree  '20  feet  to 
■25  feet  high,  but  is  frequently  met  with  as  a 
rather  wide-spreading  tree  under  20  feet  in  height. 
It  blossoms  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later  than 
L.  vulgare  and  the  racemes  are  somewhat  longer. 
Several  varieties  are  known,  some  of  which  are 
remarkable  for  the  length  of  their  racemes.  L. 
alpinum  grandiflorum  bears  racemes  8  inches  or 
9  inches  in  length,  but  this  is  insignificant  com- 
pared with  the  variety  known  as  Latest  and 
Longest.  Racemes  are  frequent  on  this  12  inches 
to  15  inches  in  length,  while  on  vigorous  examples 
racemes  19  inches  long  have  been  measured.  As 
the  name  implies,  it  blossoms  late,  and  the 
inflorescences  are  usually  at  their  best  about  the 
end  of  June  or  early  in  July.  Other  varieties  are 
fragrans,  with  very  fragrant  flowers ;  autumnalis, 
which  often  produces  some  of  its  flowers  late  in 
the  year ;  and  hirsutum,  with  hairy  leaves. 
Several  hybrids  have  originated  between  the 
common  Laburnum  and  the  one  under  notice,  of 
which  two  useful  ones  are  Parksii  and  Watereri. 
The  former  has  longer  racemes  than  the  latter. 


but  for  general  purposes  the  latter  is  the  better 
plant.  It  flowers  with  remarkable  freedom,  the 
racemes  being  about  9  inches  in  length  and  the 
flowers  of  a  very  pleasing  shade  of  yellow. 

L.  caramanicum  differs  very  widely  from  the 
other  Laburnums  and  more  resembles  some  of 
the  Cytisuses.  It  is  a  native  of  Asia  Minor  and 
has  been  known  under  several  diflFerent  names, 
such  as  Cytisus  caramanicus  and  Podocytisus 
caramanicus.  It  forms  a  small  bush  with 
tiny  Cytisus-like  leaves.  The  flowers  are  yellow 
and  borne  during  late  autumn  in  large,  terminal 
panicles.  Although  it  will  not  assume  the  pro- 
portions of  a  tree,  it  is  worth  cultivating  for  the 
sake  of  its  late-flowering  qualities.  Probably 
the  most  remarkable  Laburnum  of  all,  however, 
though  it  cannot  be  said  to  be  so  beautiful  as 
the  otiier  Laburnums,  is  L.  Adami,  the  Purple 
Laburnum.  This  has  always  been  of  great 
interest  to  scientists,  on  account  of  its  peculiar 
origin.  It  has  for  many  years  been  the  practice 
to  graft  the  purple-flowered  Cytisus  purpureus 
on  to  stocks  of  Laburnum  vulgare.  On  one 
occasion  when  this  was  done  in  the  nursery  of 
Mr.  D.  Adam,  at  Vitry,  near  Paris,  Mr.  Adam 
noticed  that  the  graft  had  exerted  a  peculiar 
influence  on  the  stock,  and  by  the  fusion  of 
the  blood  of  the  two  plants  a  graft  hybrid 
had  resulted,  which  bore  not  only  difl^erent- 
coloured  flowers  from  either  parent,  but 
ordinary  yellow  Laburnum  blossoms  and 
typical  shoots,  leaves  and  flowers  of  Cytisus 
purpureus.  By  propagating  from  that  plant  a 
stock  was  obtained  which  exhibited  the  same 
phenomenon.  A  good  tree  in  blossom  has  a  very 
peculiar  appearance  with  racemes  of  yellow 
flowers,  racemes  of  purple  flowers  and  patches 
like  miniature  Witches'  Brooms  of  Cytisus 
purpureus  with  ordinary  Cytisus  flowers.  The 
peculiarity  of  the  plant  is  that,  although  the 
three  kinds  of  bloom  may  not  be  apparent  for  a 
few  years  on  j'oung  plants,  they  eventually 
appear.  It  occasionally  happens,  too,  that  the 
purple-flowered  racemes  may  be  absent,  but  they 
reappear  after  a  year  or  two. 

The  Laburnums  generally  are  most  satisfac- 
tory trees  to  plant,  for  when  once  established 
they  give  little  trouble,  always  flower  well  and 
are  exceedingly  showy.  They  are  trees  that  are 
rather  impatient  of  pruning,  especially  when 
large  branches  are  removed,  for  the  wounds 
rarely  heal  well  and  decay  is  frequently  started 
from  a  large  wound.  W.  D. 

[Those  who  have  the  opportunity  should  visit 
the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew,  where  the  collections 
of  Laburnums  and  many  other  classes  are  in 
their  ripest  beauty.  They  are  interesting  not 
merely  from  the  effect  produced,  but  both  the 
commoner  and  rarer  kinds  are  represented.  — Ed. 


262 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  29,  1909- 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

June  S. — Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers,  c&c,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m.  Lecture 
at  3  p.m.  by  Rev.  Professor  G.  Henslow, 
V.M.H.,  on  "Some  Old  Superstitions  about 
Plants."  Admission,  2s.  6d.  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 


MP.    Harry  J.   Veitch,   V.M.H.— 

Amid  the  increasing  love  of  plants  and  gardens, 
it  may  possibly  be  forgotten  to  what  a  really 
vast  extent  the  present  and  succeeding  genera- 
tions are  indebted  to  Mr.  Harry  J.  Veitch, 
V.M.H.,  not  only  for  his  invaluable  work  among 
plants,  but  also  for  the  assistance  he  has 
invariably  rendered,  personal  as  well  as  financial, 
to  the  great  gardening  charities.  A  few  of  his 
friends  and  admirers  (both  amateur  and  pro- 
fessional) are,  therefore,  desirous  of  having  his 
portrait  painted  by  one  of  our  leading  artists,  in 
order  that  it  may  be  hung  permanently  in  the 
buildings  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society.  A 
sum  of  6TO  guineas  will  be  required.  Of  this  a 
very  substantial  sum  has  already  been  received, 
but  it  is  thought  that  among  many  of  his  friends 
there  will  exist  a  feeling  that  an  oppor- 
tunity to  subscribe  should  also  be  afforded 
them.  It  is  proposed,  should  the  funds  admit, 
to  present  each  subscriber  of  1  guinea  and 
upwards  with  an  engraving  of  the  portrait. 
Subscriptions  may  be  sent  to  either  Mr.  H.  B. 
May  of  Stanmore,  The  Green,  Chingford,  or  to 
the  Rev.  W.  Wilks,  Shirley  Vicarage,  Croydon. 

May  Tulips  at  Long'  Ditton.— A 

few  days  ago  the  tens  of  thousands  of  late  or 
May  Tulips,  Darwins,  Cottage,  English  and 
species,  at  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  Long  Ditton, 
were  in  magnificent  bloom  and  gave  glorious 
masses  of  colour.  To  realise  what  Tulips  are 
they  should  be  seen  in  the  open  and  in  such 
quantity.  How  they  waved  in  the  breeze  and 
glowed  in  the  sunlight,  how  gloriously  beauti- 
ful they  were  I  Probably  hardly  any  two 
persons  would  make  from  them  just  the  same 
selections  of  a  dozen  or  so.  To  me  there  is 
special  charm  in  form,  and  I  looked  rather  for 
that  broad,  rotund  petal  which  is  associated  with 
the  Tulip's  true  cup-shaped  form.  On  such 
ground  the  following  were  indeed  beautiful : 
Bouton  d'Or,  rich  yellow  ;  Cyclops,  deep  scarlet ; 
Feu  Ardente,  rich  deep  crimson  ;  Perle  Royale, 
white,  picotee  edged,  reddish  purple  ;  Orange 
King,  orange  maroon :  Inglescombe  Pink  : 
Eleetra,  white,  shaded  lilac  ;  Velvet  King,  very 
fine  maroon  j  P-syohe,  soft  shaded  lake ;  Sal- 
mon King,  Rev.  H.  Ewbank,  and  Margaret. 
Large  beds  of  mixtures  were  so  beautiful  as 
to   defy   description. — D. 

Gapden     Polyanthuses     at 

Camberley. — Mr.  J.  Crook,  who  some  time 
since  transferred  his  field  of  garden  operations 
from  Chard,  Somerset,  to  Camberley,  Surrey, 
has  set  himself  in  earnest  to  extend  the  culture 
and  improve  the  stock  of  the  border  Polyanthus. 
It  is  so  important  when  entering  on  work  of 
this  nature  that  the  requirements  of  the  flower 
should  be  well  understood,  and  this  Mr.  Crook 
fully  does.  Merely  large  flowers  that  have  rough 
and  uneven  forms  or  outlines,  have  dull-coloured 
centres  and  grounds  of  undefinable  hues,  do  not 
enthuse  him.  He  sees  in  the  finest  of  his  strains 
perfect  form  of  petals,  stout  and  well  rounded, 
pips  borne  evenly  and  freely  on  stout,  erect 
stems,  eyes  or  centres  clear  yellow  and  well 
defined,  and  the  ground  hues  of  some  very  dis- 
tinctive colour.  What  beautiful  whites,  straw 
yellows,  orange  yellows,  terra-cottas,  reds, 
crimsons,  mauves  and  purples,  yet  in  so  many 
varying  shades,  does  his  collection  present !  One 
plant  has  an  absolutely  new  colour  in  a  rich 
claret  hue,  which  it  is  hoped  may  be  fixed. 
A  look  over  the  more  recent  seedlings,  those  of 
a  year  old  and  just  coming  into  flower,  proved 


to  be  most  interesting,  as  in  these  were  seen 
very  fine  forms  or  new  properties  that  made  one 
long  to  see  what  their  progeny  in  future  years 
might  be.  To  show  how  well  plants  thrive  in 
the  Camberley  sand,  some  the  third  year,  or 
really  two  and  a-half  years  from  sowing,  had 
massive  heads  1.5  inches  over.  That  is  the  way 
to  have  Polyanthuses  if  planted  in  deeply- worked, 
retentive  soil,  where,  not  shifted,  they  may  with 
some  old  pot-soil  mulchings  be  encouraged  to  do 
so  well.  The  myriads  of  plants  at  Camberley 
are  in  blocks  of  white,  yellow,  red  and  crimson, 
mauve  and  purple,  and  terracotta  or  fancy. 
There  are  also  many  thousands  in  mixed  beds. 
Mr.  Crook  advises  either  sowing  last  year's  seed 
at  once  thinly  in  shallow  boxes  under  glass,  but 
shaded,  or  new  seed  of  the  present  year  in  boxes 
or  in  a  sheltered  spot  outdoors  early  in  Sep- 
tember. Few  plants  from  seed  give  greater 
beauty  so  readily  and  cheaply  and  for  successive 
seasons  as  garden  Polyanthuses. 

Gift  of  a  papk  to  Sheffield.— The 

Duke  of  Norfolk  has  given  to  the  Corporation  of 
Shefiield  the  large  park  which  has  been  opened 
to  the  public  for  some  years  and  which  is  situ- 
ated in  a  busy  part  of  the  city.  The  park  is 
some  sixty  acres  in  extent  and  is  reputed  to  be 
worth  i;  1,0(10  per  acre. 

John  Forbes,  Hawick,  Limited 

The  well-known  and  old-established  business  of 
John  Forbes,  nurseryman,  Hawick,  has  been 
incorporated  as  a  private  limited  company 
under  the  Companies  (Consolidation)  Act,  1908, 
under  the  name  of  "John  Forbes,  Hawick, 
Limited.''  We  understand  that  the  shares  are 
all  taken  up  by  Mr.  Forbes  and  his  family,  and 
that  the  incorporation  is  made  for  family  pur- 
poses only.  We  wish  the  new  company  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  prosperity  which  has  marked 
the  business  hitherto  and  recently  secured  for  it 
the  distinction  of  Royal  patronage. 

Flowep  shows  at  Bipmingham.— 

The  Birmingham  Botanical  and  Horticultural 
Society  has  decided  to  continue  the  holding  of 
two  summer  flower  shows  at  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens, Edgbaston,  this  season.  The  forthcoming 
shows  will  be  held  on  June  9  (Orchids  and 
early  summer  flowers)  and  .July  21  (Roses  and 
midsummer  flowers).  Schedules  may  be  obtained 
from  the  hon.  secretaries,  Messrs.  Humphreys 
and  Whitelock. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


CThe 


Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opiniom 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 


Aptificial  manupes.— In  reply  to  "  K. ," 

whose  letter  appears  in  The  Garden  for  May  l.'i, 
page  239,  I  did  not  suggest  in  my  previous  letter 
that  Wakeley's  Hop  Manure  contains  50  per 
cent,  moisture.  It  may  contain  more  or  less. 
My  point  is  that  the  analysis  given  by  "K."  is 
misleading,  inasmuch  as  it  is  the  analysis  of  a 
dried  sample  and  not  of  the  actual  manure 
as  sold.  Until  the  percentage  of  moisture  is 
disclosed  it  is  impossible  to  judge  of  the  value  of 
the  manure.  I  fail  to  see  any  difficulty  in  giving 
a  correct  analysis  of  the  actual  manure  as 
required  by  the  Fertiliser  and  Feeding  Stuffs 
Act.  Spent  Hops  will  supply  the  most  expen- 
sive ingredient  in  manures — nitrogen.  Both 
phosphates  and  potash  can  be  bought  cheaply 
and  added  to  the  soil  on  which  spent  Hops  have 
been  used.  Superphosphate  four  parts  and 
sulphate  of  potash  one  part,  applied  at  the  rate 
of  2oz.  to  3oz.  per  square  yard,  will  be  sufficient 
to  give  equal,  if  not  better,  results  than  that 
advocated  by"K. "  I  have  used  nothing  else 
for  my  garden  for  several  years,  and  the  results 
show  that  theie  is  nothing  absurd  in  my  sugges- 
tion.— A  User  of  Spent  Hops. 

Modern  Daffodils.— Mr.  Jacob  is  cer- 
tainly right  in  saying  that  the  Dafibdil  is 
becoming  a  florist's  flower,  and  I  also  agree  with 
him  that  there  is  at  present  no  acknowledged 


standard  of  merit,  and  hope  that  we  may  be  long 
without  one,  in  the  best  interests  of  this 
beautiful  and  subtle  flower.  I  have  never  in  my 
business  experience  met  with  anyone  who  said, 
or  showed,  that  they  were  influenced  in  pur- 
chasing Daffodils  by  the  affixes  A.M.  or  F.C.C. 
The  reasons  for  this  are  no  doubt  many,  but  it 
is  perhaps  partly  caused  by  the  fact  that  a 
number  of  flowers,  now  quite  outclassed, 
possess  these  awards.  The  awards  will  also,  in 
general  public  opinion,  be  further  depreciated 
by  the  fact  that,  as  things  stand  at  present, 
owing  to  recent  regulations  of  the  Narcissus 
committee,  the  highest  class  of  new  seedlings 
are  ceasing  to  make  their  appearance  on  the 
committee's  table.  Personally,  I  think  this  is  a 
good  thing,  as  the  public  judgment  is  well 
able  to  take  care  of  itself,  and  that  very  few 
people  buy  a  flower  because  it  has  been  approved 
of  by  somebody  else.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  the 
right  of  private  judgment  at  present  exercised 
by  Daffodil-lovers,  and  mere  size,  when  flowers 
are  lacking  in  form  or  badly  proportioned,  does 
not  attract.  With  regard  to  registration  of 
names,  I  think  it  is  fairly  obvious  that,  unless 
great  confusion  is  to  arise,  there  must  be  for  the 
convenience  of  all  concerned — raisers  of  seedlings 
and  traders  in  bulbs  and  the  public  alike — some 
central  register  in  which  a  record  is  kept  of 
appropriated  names  and  new  ones  which  can  be 
consulted  and  used  by  everyone.  An  abuse  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  register,  which 
is  now  a  derelict,  seems  rather  to  call  for  reform 
than  its  abandonment.  The  abuse  complained  of 
can  be  easily  prevented.  It  has  been  suggested 
that  the  supply  of  names  derived  from  the 
English  language  and  foreign  ones,  and  from  the 
heavens  above  and  the  earth  beneath,  will  give 
out  before  the  needs  of  new  seedlings  ;  but  this 
difficulty  has  not  yet  arisen,  and  when  it  does  it 
will  be  time  enough  to  meet  it.  It  is  unfortu- 
nate that  the  time  for  the  consideration  of  these 
and  other  important  points  by  the  Narcissua 
committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  i» 
so  limited.  The  meetings  are  held  on  the 
mornings  of  the  Tuesday  shows,  when  many  of 
the  members  have  flowers  on  show  or  other 
interests  in  the  hall,  and  there  is,  consequently, 
a  disposition  to  burke  discussion  and  hurry  things 
through  without  adequate  consideration. — F.  W. 
CuRREY,  The  Warren  Gardens,  Lismore. 

A  CUPe  fOP  slugs.— It  may  interest  other 
readers  to  know  that  I  have  found  powdered 
alum  (2d.  per  pound)  an  absolute  remedy  for 
slugs,  which  were  a  great  nuisance  before  I  began 
using  it.  It  is  much  less  trouble  to  use  than  soot 
or  lime  and  does  no  harm  to  the  plants. — Orange. 

A  gardening  society  in  Amepica 

and  Sweet  COPn. — You  may  recall  that 
last  autumn  you  kindly  wrote  me  regarding  the 
formation  of  a  local  horticultural  society  in  our 
surburban  town,  and  sent  me  exactly  the  litera- 
ture of  which  I  was  in  need.  I  am  glad  now  to 
be  able  to  tell  you  that  we  have  succeeded  in 
getting  something  of  the  sort  started,  and 
although  it  will  be  uphill  work  there  are  a  few 
of  us  who  think  it  can  be  made  to  go.  You  have, 
however,  no  idea  how  utterly  untrained  the 
minds  of  our  probable  members  are  in  regard  to- 
handling  and  caring  for  gardens.  Most  of  them 
take  an  interest  in  flowers  after  a  fashion,  but 
have  never  had  the  idea  of  running  a  garden  in 
the  English  sense — that  is,  a  place  which  would  be 
beautiful  and  interesting  from  snow  to  snow. 
However,  we  shall  proceed  to  do  the  best  we  can, 
and  perhaps  you  may  be  interested  to  know  that 
one  of  the  first  things  that  was  done  was  to  place 
a  copy  of  The  Garden  in  the  public  library, 
where  we  have  arranged  to  have  an  alcove  set 
aside  for  books  and  periodicals  upon  the  subject. 
I  enclose  herewith  one  of  the  little  announce- 
ments which  we  are  getting  out,  and  on  some 
future  occasion  may  have  the  pleasure  of  sending* 
you  further  literature.  If  by  chance  any  ideas 
occur  to  you  which  you  think  we  could  use,  I 
trust  you  will  let  us  have  them,  because  at  the 
best  we  find  it  difficult  to  arouse  and  keep  up  a 


May  29,  1909.J 


THE     GARDEN. 


263 


little  enthusiasm  on  the  subject.  A  short  time 
ago  I  noticed  in  The  Garden  a  note  in  regard  to 
Sweet  Corn.  The  sorts  which  were  mentioned 
there  as  available  may  do  well  with  you.  They 
would  do  very  nicely  provided  your  enquirer 
wishes  to  raise  the  Corn  to  look  at ;  but  if  he  has 
any  idea  of  eating  the  crop,  there  is  only  one 
sort  for  him  to  plant,  and  that  is  the  Golden 
Bantam,  which  was  introduced  a  few  years  ago  by 
Burpee.  I  am  sending  you  herewith  under 
separate  cover  a  few  seeds,  a  portion  of  my  supply 
of  this  variety  which  I  got  direct  from  the  intro- 
ducer this  year,  and  if  you  care  to  transmit  them 
to  your  enquirer,  no  doubt  he  will  be  willing  to 
give  them  a  trial.  Other  varieties  of  Corn  are 
much  better-looking — this  is  small,  yellow  and, 
as  the  farmers  in  the  country  say,  "nubbins" 
mostly,  but  the  flavour  is  better  than  any  I 
know,  and  I  have  tried  most  of  them  at  one  time  or 
another.  In  addition  to  what  you  have  told 
your  enquirer,  you  might  point  out  to  him  that 
Corn  is  in  Nature  a  native  of  the  highlands  of  the 
tropical  countries,  and  that  means  it  will  only 
grow  when  the  weather  is  thoroughly  warm. 
While  it  should  have  plenty  of  moisture  it  must 
not  have  too  much  water  standing  about  its  roots, 
or  it  is  certain  to  fail  to  mature  ;  in  fact,  in  the 
cornfields  in  this  country  you  can  frequently  pick 
out  the  wet  spots,  in  July  or  August,  by  the 
stunted  and  yellow  appearance  of  the  Corn  grow- 
ing in  these  places.  Contrary  to  the  general 
idea,  I  have  found  no  difficulty  at  all  in  trans- 
planting young  Coro^  not  only  once,  but  two 
or  three  times  if  necessary,  simply  using  the  same 
precautions  that  you  would  in  transplanting  any 
other  rather  tender  annual.  For  this  reason 
Golden  Bantam  can  be  started  in  any  convenient 
warm  place  and  transferred  out  of  doors  when 
the  weather  is  warm  enough,  so  that  it  will  not 
be  stunted.  Another  point  that  should  be  brought 
out  very  clearly  is  that  the  Corn  should  be  planted 
in  hills  or  close  rows.  In  theory  it  is  fertilised 
by  the  wind,  but  in  practice  the  direct  dropping 
of  the  pollen  seems  to  be  the  only  method  which 
gives  good  results.  A  single  stalk  of  Corn  rarely 
fills  out  more  than  a  few  grains  in  an  ear.  If,  in 
this  little  risumd  of  the  Corn  business,  I  have 
troubled  you  with  facts  which  you  already  know, 
I  trust  that  you  will  pardon  me  on  the  ground  that 
I  was  simply  anxious  to  help  the  enquirer  along. 
With  best  wishes,  thanking  you  again  for  your 
kind  interest  in  the  starting  of  our  little  society. 
— F.  D.  Crane,  New  York,  U.S.A.  [We  thank 
our  correspondent  very  much  for  his  letter ;  it  is 
most  welcome. — Ed.] 


SPRING     FLOWERS    AT 
HAMPTON     COURT. 

THE  gardens  at  Hampton  Court  are  now 
looking  their  best.  All  who  have 
the  opportunity,  and  who  can  appre- 
ciate the  wealth  of  spring  flowers  on 
trees,  shrubs,  herbaceous  and  bulbous 
plants  to  be  seen  there  now,  should  lose 
no  time  in  wending  their  way  thither.  The 
Chestnuts  are  very  full  of  bloom.  The  Lilac 
bushes,  purple  and  white,  huge  specimens  loaded 
with  their  deliciously  scented  blossoms,  are  alone 
a  sight  worth  going  a  long  way  to  see.  The  Old 
Dutch  Garden  on  the  south  side  of  the  palace  is 
now  at  its  best,  and  is  full  of  interest  and  beauty. 
The  wealth  of  hardy  trees  and  plants  in  bloom 
and  the  tints  of  green  and  gold  of  the  myriads  of 
young  growths  on  the  old  trees  which  were  seen 
on  a  recent  afternoon  in  glorious  sunshine  was 
a  garden  picture  of  great  beauty.  Why  are 
Lilacs  not  more  frequently  planted  in  large  banks 
or  masses,  or  even  as  hedges  for  efiect  ?  Here  on 
one  side  of  the  private  tennis  court,  running  its 
whole  length,  is  to  be  seen  a  noble  bank  of  this 
old  favourite  in  full  bloom. 

The  now  far-famed  long  border  at  the  foot  of 
the  east  wall,  and  facing  the  east  lawn,  as  well  as 
the  large  beds  running  parallel  with  the  walks. 


afford  at  the  present  moment  such  rich  and 
varied  scenes  of  brilliant  colouring  as  is  scarcely 
to  be  seen  anywhere  else  in  the  kingdom. 

To  give  those  who  are  unable  to  go  to  see  for 
themselves,  and  who  would  like  to  reproduce  in 
their  own  gardens  next  spring  some  of  the  colour 
arrangements  seen  to  such  advantage  here,  I  may 
mention  a  few  of  the  plants  most  commonly  used 
and  their  disposition  in  a  few  of  the  beds.  What 
is  evidently  aimed  at  here  in  spring  bedding  is 
colour  massing,  with  dwarf  plants  for  carpeting 
the  beds,  combined  with  the  introduction  of 
taller  plants  of  vivid  colouring,  not  too  thickly 
planted,  providing  splashes  of  colour,  hovering, 
as  it  were,  over  the  beds,  but  not  hiding  the  effect 
of  the  masses  of  colour  provided  beneath  them. 
Tulips  are  par  excellence  the  plants  to  produce 
these  splashes  of  colour. 

The  comparatively  new  double  Rock  Cress 
(Arabis  albida  flore-pleno)  is  largely  used  and 
grown  toperfeotion,  also  the  single  variety.  Yellow 
Alyssum  is  another  popular  plant ;  Polyanthuses, 
red,  yellow  and  white,  are  in  full  bloom  ;  and 
Wallflowers  in  all  the  distinct  colours  are  well  in 
evidence.  In  plant  arrangements  of  this  descrip- 
tion the  Aubrietia  is  indispensable ;  so  are  the 
Violas  in  various  colours,  also  Daisies  and  Pansies. 
These  are  all  hardy,  easily  grown  plants,  and 
may  be  propagated  freely  and  cheaply  from  seeds 
or  cuttings. 


Austria,  colour  rich  orange  red,  and  Tulip 
fulgens,  a  tall  crimson  variety.  (8)  Ground- 
work of  red  Polyanthuses,  with  Tulip  Ophir 
(yellow)  and  Pottebakker  White. 

These  beds  are  large  (mostly  about  '27  feet  by 
15  feet)  and  not  very  far  apart  in  a  straight  line, 
and  if  it  were  not  that  they  are  placed  on  a  large 
expanse  of  lawn  by  the  side  of  a  gravel  walk  of 
enormous  width  and  not  far  from  some  avenues 
of  very  old  Yew  trees,  to  say  nothing  that  the 
east,  the  most  imposing  front  of  the  palace  itself, 
looks  down  upon  them,  it  might  be  objected  that 
there  was  too  much  colour.  The  associations 
mentioned  tone  down  and  neutralise  any  such 
feature.  Where  all  is  so  spacious  and  stately, 
anything  puny  would  be  out  of  place.  0.  T. 


ROSES  AND  AURICULAS   AT 
SLOUGH. 

A   S    the    nursery  from  whence  the  famous 

/\  Rose  Turner's  Crimson  Rambler  was 

/  %         introduced  to  growers  in  this  country, 

/      \        the   extensive   glass   and    land   area 

2         \_     devoted     to     horticulture     by    Mr. 

Charles  Turner  at  Slough  will  long 

be  famous,  and  it  was  with  the  object  of  seeing 

some  good  things  in  the  horticultural  line    that 

we  journeyed  thither  on  a  recent  afternoon. 


[climbing  roses   in   MB.  CHARLES  TURNER'S  NURSERIES  AT  SLOUGH. 


The  following  beds  were  among  the  brightest 
and  most  striking  :  (1)  The  groundwork  of  this 
was  planted  with  white  Daisy  and  the  purple 
Aubrietia  alternately,  now  in  full  bloom  and 
completely  covering  the  surface  of  the  bed. 
Planted  among  these  about  10"  inches  apart  were 
the  three  following  Tulips  in  equal  numbers,  the 
colours,  I  thought,  blending  most  pleasingly 
together :  Murillo  (pale  rose),  Duke  of  York 
(red  and  white),  and  La  Candeur  (pure  white). 
(2)  Groundwork  of  Polyanthuses  in  various  shades 
of  gold,  splendidly  flowered,  with  Tulips  Rose 
Superba  and  Rose  Beauty,  the  former  being  pink 
and  white  and  the  latter  scarlet  and  white.  (3) 
The  groundwork  of  this  was  completely  covered 
with  the  double  Rook  Cress  (Arabis),  bearing 
many  spikes  of  snow  white  flowers,  reminding 
one  somewhat  of  those  of  the  Lily  of  the  Valley. 
The  tall  plants  provided  for  this  bed  were 
Hyacinth  King  of  the  Blues  and  Tulip  Cottage 
Maid.  (4)  Carpet  of  yellow  Polyanthuses,  with 
Tulip  Rose  Rubrorum,  colour  brilliant  scarlet. 
(5)  Yellow  Viola  was  the  groundwork  of  this 
bed,  the  tall  plants  being  Narcissus  Barri  oon- 
spicuus,  a  very  pleasing  combination.  (6) 
Groundwork  of  dark  Wallflowers  (Ruby  Gem), 
with  tall  plants  of  Tulip  Keizerskroon  and  a  rich 
yellow  May  Tulip.  (7)  Dwarf  yellow  Wall- 
flowers,   with  tall   plants    of    Tulip     Prince    of 


Although  early  for  Roses  generally,  there  were 
many  in  flower  under  glass,  while  the  stock  of 
those  in  pots  outdoors,  suitable  for  planting  out 
now  for  filling  up  gaps  in  beds  or  other  con- 
spicuous places,  was  a  very  extensive  and 
healthy  one.  Among  those  flowering  at  the  time 
of  our  visit.  Crimson  Rambler  naturally  occupied 
a  prominent  position  and  was  romping  away  in 
the  vigorous  maimer  so  characteristic  of  the 
variety.  Then  there  was  Stella,  a  charming 
pink  single  of  the  multiflora  section,  each  flower 
having  a  nearly  white  eye.  Trier  was  another 
belonging  to  the  same  section  that  was  in  splendid 
form,  the  beautiful  semi-double  flowers  being 
produced  in  large  clusters  and  possessing  that 
delightful  fragrance  without  which  a  Rose  loses 
half  its  charm.  In  addition,  there  were  Hiawatha 
and  many  other  well-known  sorts,  besides  plants 
innumerable  that  possessed  such  a  quantity  of 
flower-buds  that  it  required  not  a  very  strong 
imagination  to  picture  what  pillars  of  bloom  they 
would  become  in  a  week  or  two's  time. 

One  point  that  charmed  us  about  this  nursery 
was  the  blending  of  old-time  horticulture  with 
the  most  up-to-date  methods.  Thus,  climbing 
over  Mr.  Turner's  house  at  the  entrance  to  the 
nursery  is  a  magnificent  old  Wistaria,  whose 
gnarled  and  twisted  stem  measures  some  18  inches 
in     diameter,    the     blue    of     the    flowers     just 


264 


THE    GARDEN. 


[May  29,  1909. 


showiDg  through  their  silken  sheaths.  This 
plant  alone  is  worth  travelling  tar  to  see.  Then 
again,  this  is  one  of  the  few  nurseries  where  the 
Auricula,  so  beloved  of  our  forefathers,  is  grown 
to  any  extent.  Mr.  Turner  has  something  like 
5,000  plants  of  this  charming  flower,  both  show 
and  alpine  varieties  being  represented,  all  the 
plints  being  in  perfect  health.  What  a  de- 
lightful fragrance  assailed  our  senses  on  entering 
the  cool  house,  wherein  these  were  accommodated, 
a  fragrance  reminiscent  of  happj'  days  spent  in 
the  Primrose  and  Oxlip  woods  of  remote  Essex 
corners.  Among  the  show  varieties  with  green 
edges  were  such  well-known  sorts  as  Mrs. 
Henwood  and  the  Rev.  F.  D.  Horner,  grey- 
edged  sorts  being  represented  by  such  as  Richard 
Headley,  General  Neil,  Stapleford  Hero,  Beauty 
and  Heather  Bell,  a  couple  of  lovely  self's 
being  Ruby  and  Evelyn  Richardson.  Of 
alpines  Mr.  Turner  has  devoted  consider- 
able attention  to  raising  new  seedlings,  and 
among  a  large  batch  of  these  we  noticed 
several  very  fine  and  quite  unique  sorts,  the 
colours  being  different  from  any  we  already 
possess. 

The  beautiful  Ivy-leaved  Pelargonium 
named  Charles  Turner  is  so  well  known 
that  all  who  like  it  will  be  glad  to  know 
that  the  firm  has  a  splendid  seedling  from 
it  named  Mrs.  Hawley.  This  is  a  remark- 
ably robust  variety  with  large  leaves  and 
full  flowers  of  a  richer  hue  than  its  proto- 
type. Another  novelty  that  we  were  much 
charmed  with  was  a  white  seedling  green- 
house Rhododendron,  the  large,  pure  white 
flowers  possessing  a  most  delightful 
fragrance. 

Other  good  things  noted  were  a  splendid 
strain  of  Primula  Sieboldii  varieties,  seedling 
Roses  a  few  inches  high.  Pelargonium  Lady 
Deeies,  a  beautiful  large-flowered  blush  pink 
variety,  whose  freedom  of  flowering  should 
render  it  valuable  for  market  purposes ; 
Caladiums  of  all  sizes  and  brilliant  colours  ; 
and  a  seldom -met- with  shrub  named  Ochna 
raultiflora,  whose  several  features  should 
make  it  valuable  for  the  greenhouse.  First 
come  its  bright  green  leaves,  then  yellow 
flowers,  the  calyx  of  which  is  scarlet  and 
persistent.  When  the  flowers  fall,  green 
berries  quickly  form,  and  these  eventually 
turn  black,  so  that  when  thrown  up  as  they 
are  against  the  scarlet  of  the  calyx  a  most 
telling  picture  is  produced.  All  who  like 
out-of-the-way  and  ornamental  plants  should 
grow  this.  Carnations,  again,  are  grown 
extensively,  Perpetual-flowering,  Malmaison 
and  border  varieties  all  being  dealt  with  in 
thorough  style.  Standard  Heliotropes, 
Plumbagos,  Fuchsias  and  large  Ivy-leaved 
Pelargoniums  for  bedding  purposes  occupied 
a  large  amount  of  space,  the  plants  all 
being  of  a  well  -  hardened  and  healthy 
character. 

In  the  outdoor  department  we  found 
trees  and  shrubs  of  all  sorts  and  also 
hardy  plants  cultivated  on  a  large  scale. 
Lilacs,  Berberises,  Ivies,  Maples,  Prunuses, 
Pyrus  and  hosts  of  others  were  to  be 
seen,  lack  of  space  preventing  us  going 
into  the  details  of  these.  A  fine  stock 
young  plants  of  Magnolia  grandiflora  were  of 
more  than  usual  interest,  and  Mr.  Turner 
informed  us  that  a  large  quantity  is  propagated 
every  year.  Among  other  hardy  plants  were 
double  Cilthas,  one  of  especial  merit  being 
C.  palustris  montrosa  plena,  which  has  large 
leaves  and  a  spreading  habit,  the  beautiful  double 
flowers  being  of  a  citron  yellow  hue.  Another 
very  effective  plant  was  Euphorbia  polyehroma, 
the  rich  yellow  inflorescences  of  which  are  borne 
on  1-foot-high  stems  and  make  a  most  effective 
display.  Saxifrages  of  all  sorts  were  flowering 
very  freely,  and  Iberis  sempervivens  Snowflake 
is  a  particularly  pure  white  variety  of  the 
perennial  Candytuft,  beside  which  the  type 
looks  ver}'  dirty  indeed. 


Oar  sea-wal 

A" 


SEA-SAND  AND  ITS  USES. 

Oar  sea-walled  garden,  the  whole  land. — "  Richard  II." 
SEA -WALLED  garden-this  is  how 
Shakespeare  describes  our  islands, 
and  so  many  English  people  live 
near  the  sea  and  will  have  gardens 
by  it,  no  matter  how  great  the 
difficulties  they  encounter,  that  a 
few  words  about  sea-sand  and  how  to  use  it  may 
not  come  amiss. 

Sea-sand  is  generally  plentiful  in  sea-side 
places,  but  it  is  not  made  nearly  so  much  use  of 
as  it  might  be  ;  our  gardeners  are  often  sent  long 
distances  away  to  get  the  sand  that  is  so  in- 
dispensable for  their  greenhouses  and  cuttings, 
while  any  quantity  of  sea-sand  could  be  procured 


of 


TUB  NEW   SAXIFRAGA  CLIBRA.NII.     (Xatiiial  she.) 
{See  paffe  26ii.) 

by  them  without  expense  and  with  very  little 
trouble.  Experience  has  taught  us  not  to 
despise  the  common  sea-sand  of  the  shore. 
We  find  it  serviceable  in  the  garden,  in  the 
greenhouse  and  indoors. 

Quite  true,  it  is  not  wise  to  take  raw  sand 
straight  from  the  beach  and  expect  to  make  use 
of  it  immediately.  This  would  contain  far  too 
much  saline  matter  for  safety  ;  but  the  same 
sand,  after  it  has  been  kept  some  time  in  heaps 
and  exposed  to  the  elements,  dried  and  wetted, 
and  dried  again  very  likely,  can  be  made  use  of 
in  many  ways.  It  is  particularly  good  to  mix 
with  leaf-mould  in  potting  Geraniums,  and  there 
are  other  plants  which  respond  to  it  at  once. 
Among  them  we  might  mention  Carnations  — 
a  fact  which  will  surprise  no  one  who  has  seen 


how  luxuriantly  these  flowers  bloom  close  to  the 
edges  of  the  Mediterranean,  where  they  have 
little  else  to  grow  in  but  sand  between  the  slabs 
of  rock.  There  is  no  need  to  trouble  about 
washing  sea-sand  before  using  it.  Nature  will  do 
the  work  admirably  for  us  if  we  give  her  time. 

As  to  the  garden  use  of  sea-sand,  common 
sense  is  our  best  guide.  It  depends  upon  the 
nature  of  the  soil  whether  the  addition  of  any 
sand  whatever  is  to  be  desired.  Sea-sand  wants 
careful  using.  There  is,  of  course,  a  good  deal 
(if  salt  in  it,  and  salt,  like  many  other  good 
things,  is  both  a  poison  and  a  medicine.  Rough 
salt  is  used  to  kill  the  weeds  that  grow  between 
the  flints  of  the  stable-yard,  and  there  is 
nothing  like  it  for  destroying  Nettles,  root  and 
branch;  but  in  autumn  tlie  same  thing  will 
be  sprinkled  on  the  sutfaoe  of  the  Asparagus 
beds  as  a  stimulant,  and  a  great  deal  of  good 
it  does  them. 

In  some  form  or  another  salt  is  often  wel- 
come in  the  kitchen  garden.  Naturally  eo. 
A  large  number  of  our  most  useful  vegetables 
are  found  growing  in  a  wild  state  close  to 
the  sea.  Such  plants  might  be  expected 
to  like  what  we  may  call  sea-coast  foods, 
w  hether  they  are  offered  in  the  shape  of 
refuse  from  the  herring  fishery,  of  sea-weeds, 
or  of  sea-sand  with  whatever  virtue  may  be 
in  it.  With  plants  whose  origin  is  clearly 
marine,  there  is  the  same  satisfaction  in 
giving  ihem  a  taste  of  their  native  aliment 
as  there  is  in  giving  a  fresh  green  turf  to  a 
captive  thrush  or  tufts  of  Groundsel  to  a 
gold  finch.  Response  is  made  in  the  same  way 
to  benefits  bestowed.  Plants  that  are  made 
happy  with  food  they  like  have  a  very  prac- 
tical way  of  evincing  gratitude,  and  do  so  in  a 
manner  that  human  beings  might  well  copy. 
Gardeners  have  forgotten  it,  perhaps,  but 
wild-flower-lovera  will  easily  recall  the  num- 
ber of  plants  now  cultivated  as  vegetables 
that  may  be  met  with  in  any  summer  ramble 
on  the  sea-coast.  Salt  marshes  are  the  natural 
home  of  Asparagus :  Celery  (Apium  graveo- 
lens)  is  not  uncommon  in  moist  and  sandy 
places  by  the  sea-shore  ;  Fennel  (FQ?nioulum 
vulgare)  is  a  native  of  our  chalky  cliffs ;  and 
Simphire,  at  one  time  such  a  popular  pickle, 
inhabits  rocks  just  above  the  reach  of  waves. 
The  Sea-beet  (Beta  maritima)  is  said  to  be  the 
origin  of  our  cultivated  Beet,  and  is  easily 
recognised  by  its  resemblance  to  the  vege- 
table so  common  in  our  gardens.  The  root- 
leaves  of  the  wild  Beet  when  boiled  are 
nearly  as  good  as  Spinach.  A  kind  of  wild 
Carrot  (Daucus  maritimus)  grows  on  the 
coast  of  Cornwall,  and  Crambe  maritima  is 
no  other  than  the  much-prized  Seakale, 
whose  clustering  heads  of  brilliant  white 
flowers  are  so  pretty,  and  whose  leaf-stalks 
when  blanched  make  such  capital  eating. 
All  these  plants  may  be  found  on  an  August 
ramble  by  the  sea,  but  it  is  in  June  we  had 
better  look  for  the  wild  Sea-cabbage  (Brassica 
oleracea).  When  found,  please  make  a  note 
of  this,  for  it  is  the  reputed  parent  of  the 
entire  Cabbage  family,  such  as  Broccoli, 
Cauliflower,  Brussels  Sprouts,  &c.  A  fine 
thing  the  Cabbage  !  Our  old  botanists  con- 
sidered it  to  be  a  cure  for  nearly  all  the  ills  that 
flesh  is  heir  to,  and  the  Ancient  Greeks  were  much 
of  the  same  opinion. 

Sea-sand  indoors  is  delightful  when  arranging 
cut  flowers  for  the  table  or  dwelling-rooms.  It 
should  be  just  moist  enough  to  support  the  stems 
securely,  and  is  much  pleasanter  to  use  than  wire 
holders  because  it  is  so  hygienic  and  preservative. 
Last  Christmas  a  dozen  or  so  of  Tulips  sent 
from  the  florist  with  the  bulbs  attached  were 
placed  in  a  bowl  filled  with  fresh  sea-sand  ;  they 
remained  in  perfection  for  many  weeks. 
Identically  the  same  Tulips  put  in  either  wet 
moss  or  damp  earth  faded  off  in  half  the  time. 
Children  in  "  Poppy-land"  playing  on  the  sands 
often  amuse  themselves  by  making  little  qanlons 
in  it.  Fbancp.s  A.   Bards wki.i,. 


May  29,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN, 


265 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN. 


SOME  EARLY  JUNE  ROSES. 

A  LUEADY    the    swelling    buds    upon    an 

/\  improved  plant  of  Conrad  F.   Meyer 

/  \         growing  against  the  east  wall  of  my 

/      \        house   proclaims   the  advent  of   the 

/         ^     Rose  season,  and,  given  some  warm 

weather  with  refreshing  showers,  we 

may   expect   a  rich  display  shortly.      To  many 

individuals  the  first  Snowdrop  gives  unbounded 

pleasure  as  it  peers  forth  so  shyly  beneath  the 

leafless  trees  ;  but  to  the  true  rosarian  he  looks 

forward   longingly  to   the   first  little  bud  upon 

the  hedge  of    Scotch  Roses,   or  maybe   a    large 

bush   of  that   delightful   single  glorified  Scotch 

Rose  named  Altaiea. 

How  pretty  the  Scotch  Roses  are  with  their 
dense  round  bushes  covered  with  the  tiny  little 
double  and  single  blooms,  mostly  of  a  pink  shade ; 
but  some  are  blush,  a  few  rosy  red  and  several 
white  !  There  is  also  a  beautiful  yellow  form 
known  as  Williams's  Yellow  Briar.  I  have 
read  of  a  lovely  variety  known  in  Scotland  a<i 
The  Tartan,  but  am  not  acquainted  with  it. 
The  Scotch  Roses  are  easily  propagated.  They 
send  out  lots  of  running  shoots,  which  spring  up 
all  around  the  bush,  and  one  may  soon  obtain 
hundreds  of  plants  from  these.  They  are  excel- 
lent for  growing  under  the  shade  of  trees.  Some 
of  the  singles  are  particularly  beautiful,  one 
especially,  the  single  red.  With  the  Scotch 
Roses  we  have  blooming  several  interesting 
species,  but  these  are  more  favoured  by  the 
botanist  thin  the  general  public.  To  those,  how- 
ever, who  would  desire  to  know  them  I  would 
recommend  a  journey  to  Kew  Gardens,  where 
one  may  spend  an  afternoon  of  real  enjoyment 
hunting  out  these  lovely,  if  simple,  Roses. 

Opening  close  upon  the  Scotch  Roses  we  have 
the  Briars  of  various  sorts,  the  Hybrids  raised 
by  Lord  Penzince,  with  their  wide  range  of 
colour,  delightfully  fragrant  in  leaf  and  also  in 
bloom  ;  then  there  is  Mr.  George  Paul's  exquisite 
variety  Una,  which  is  worthy  of  being  planted 
as  a  hedge,  so  beautiful  are  its  creamy  white 
blooms,  obtained  by  crossing  the  Dog  Rose  with 
that  old  favourite  Tea  Gloire  de  Dijon,  if  I 
mistake  not.  Some  real  yellows  are  found  among 
these  Briar  Roses,  notably,  Austrian  Yellow, 
Persian  Yellow  and  Harrisonii,  and  a  rare  bit 
of  coppery  red  and  yellow  in  the  ancient  Copper 
Austrian,  which  is  known  also  as  Puoicea. 

The  old-fashioned  Gallica  Roses  are  now 
showing  bud ;  so  also  are  the  varieties  of  Rosa 
damascena  and  R.  alba.  A  few  of  these  should 
be  grown  whenever  possible,  for  they  give  a  sort 
of  old-world  appearance  to  the  rosery,  and  they, 
too,  are  deliciously  sweet.  How  their  very 
names  carry  our  memories  back  to  olden  times  ! 
I  think  there  is  much  in  a  name,  in  spite  of 
Shakespeare's  dictum.  These  old  names  were 
•  much  more  euphonious  than  many  of  the  long 
German  titles  and  English,  too,  of  the  present 
day.  All  these  Roses  propagate  so  readily  from 
layers  that,  given  one  plant,  the  borders  may 
soon  possess  plenty.  This  may  also  be  said  of 
the  old  Moss  Roses,  which  are  much  more  easy 
to  cultivate  when  on  their  own  roots  than  when 
budded.  There  are  far  too  many  sorts,  but  one 
cannot  omit  the  common  Pink,  unless  it  be  to 
plant  Gracilis,  which  blooms  more  freely,  or  the 
Crested  or  the  lovely  white  Blanche  Moreau  and 
the  pretty  miniature  Little  Gem. 

Arches  and  pillars  will  soon  be  aglow  with 
some  of  the  beautiful  wichuraiana  Roses.  To 
see  them  growing,  even  before  a  bloom  is  out,  is  a 
pleasing  sight.  Their  glistening  foliage,  so  varied 
in  hue,  is  very  beautiful.  Some  of  the  earliest  are 
Jersey  Beauty,  Joseph  Billiard,  Gardenia,  Ruby 
Queen,Riin6  Andr^,  albarubifolia,  AlberioBarbier, 
Auguste  Barbier,  Fran9ois  Foucard,  Frangois 
Guillot,  Frangois  Poisson,  Gerbe  Rose  (which  is  so 
sweetly  fragrant),  J.  Guiohard  and  Robert  Craig. 
Then     from     the     multiflora    section    we    have 


Waltham  Bride,  Leuohtstern,  Electra,  Aglaia, 
Euphrosyne,  Thalia  and  the  pretty  Thunbergii. 
The  Hybrid  Chinese  give  us  their  quota  in 
Carmine  Pillar  (most  glorious  of  single  Roses), 
Fulgens  (a  brilliant  old  sort)  and  the  snow  white 
Mme.  Plantier.  Bourbon  Roses  are  represented 
in  Robusta,  a  grand  colour,  as  rich  as  Louis 
van  Houtte ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  this 
Rose  is  really  a  Bourbon,  for  it  does  not  flower 
in  autumn,  when  the  Bourbons  are  at  their  best. 
It  is,  however,  a  fine  Rose  for  early  flowering. 
The  lovely  old  Gloire  des  Rosomanes  is  showing 
its  intense  colouring,  and  will  continue  so  all 
through  the  season,  while  our  gracious  Queen's 
favourite  Rose  Armosa  is  providing  us  with  its 
lovely  shaped  pink  blooms  in  profusion. 

These,  then,  are  some  of  the  early  Roses  one 
may  have  in  the  garden.  There  are  others,  and 
I  would  refer  planters  to  the  charming  dwarf 
Polyantha  Roses  and  also  the  Monthly  or  Chinese, 
for  in  these  two  groups  there  is  sufficient  variety 
to  make  a  beautiful  group  of  early  Roses.       P. 


"THE    SCENTLESS    AND 
SCENTED    ROSE." 


THE 


In  the  instructive  and  useful  "Rose  Annual" 
for   1909,   a  publication  of   the   National   Rose 


in  the  HybriJi  and  Hybrid  Teas  that  the  true 
Rose  scent  is  so  markedly  found  ;  and  with  what 
impatience  each  year  the  lover  of  Roses  awaits 
"  the  first  to  oist  its  sweets  upon  the  summer." 
Of  the  Roses  which  have  little  or  no  scent  I  may 
include,  in  addition  to  Frau  Karl  Druschki, 
Baroness  Rothschild,  Merveille  de  Lyon,  Her 
Majesty,  Mildred  Grant,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roose- 
velt, Crimson  Rambler,  Mrs.  Cutbush  and 
Maman  Levavasseur. 

To  name  the  most  highly  scented  of  all  Roses 
is  no  easy  matter,  but  undoubtedly  the  following 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  stand  in  a  class  by  themselves : 
Etienne  Levet,  Marie  Baumann,  Senateur  Vaisse 
and  Commandant  Felix  Faure.  Then  follow 
Chas.  Lefebvre,  General  .Jacqueminot,  Ben  Cant, 
Dupuy  Jamain,  Captain  Hayward,  Mme.  Gabriel 
Luizet,  A.  K.  Williams, :  Louis  van  Houtte, 
Horace  Vernet,  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  Victor 
Hugo,  Ulrioh  Brunner,  Alfred  Colomb,  Hugli 
Dickson,  Helen  Keller,  S.  M.  Rodocanachi  and 
Mrs.  ,Tohn  Liing. 

Among  the  Hybrid  Teas  I  would  select :  Mrs. 
David  .Jirdine,  Mamie,  Marquise  Litta, 
.\ugustine  Guinoisseau,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
Cherry  Ripe,  Cheshunt  Hybrid,  La  France,  Li 
France  '89,  Daisy,  Gladys  Harkness,  Johanna 
Sebus,    Richmond,    General    McArthur,    Mme. 


THE    RARE   SCILL.i    LILIO-HYACI.NTHl'3    Al.BUS    IN    A    SCOTTISH    GARDEN.      (Si'e  paije  rHK.) 


Society,  an  article  written  by  Mr.  C.  Williamson 
is  published  on  "  The  Scentless  and  the  Scented 
flose,"  which  it  is  a  pleasure  to  reproduce  :  It  is 
strange  that  in  the  many  Rose  catalogues  issued, 
little  or  no  mention  is  made  of  the  most  delight- 
ful of  all  attributes  of  the  Rose— fragrance. 
The  varied  hues  of  the  Queen  of  Flowers 
are  described  in  most  poetic  language,  but 
"the  potent  witchery  of  smell,"  as  Whittier 
puts  it,  is  treated  as  superfluous.  Alas  ! 
there  are  many  beautiful  Roses  which  lack 
this  "subtle  power  of  perfume"  to  make 
them  perfect.  The  most  striking  example  is 
that  grand  Rose  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  which, 
beautiful  as  a  masterpiece  in  snow  white 
marble,  yet  possessing  no  fragrance,  is  like 
beauty  without  soul. 

Nearly  everyone  has  a  slightly  different 
appreciation  of  Rose  perfume.  Some  have  the 
power  of  finding  odours  in  the  more  delicately 
scented  Teas  resembling  various  fruits — Rasp- 
berry, Apricot  and  Peach  for  instance — but  it_is 


Jules  Grolez,  Souv.  de  Maria  de  Zayas,  Dr. 
O'Donel  Browne,  Mrs.  Stewart  Clark,  Avoca, 
Gustavo  Grunerwald,  Lyon  Rose  and  Lady 
Helen  Vincent.  Then  there  are  two  Roses 
quite  different  from  the  above  but  quite 
delicious  in  their  way  :  Zi^phirine  Drouhin 
(Hybrid  Bourbon)  and  Princess  Bonnie  (Hybrid 
Tea),  to  which  may  be  added  the  best  of  the 
Scotch  Roses,  Stanwell  Perpetual,  as  fragrant  as 
it  is  beautiful. 

For  the  Tea  scents,  first  by  a  long  way 
is  Mar^chal  Niel ;  then  Catherine  Mermet 
and  its  two  t-ports,  Bridesmaid  and  Muriel 
Grahame,  Socrates,  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley, 
Sunset,  E.  V.  Hermanos,  Meta  and  Molly 
Sharman  Crawford. 

Finally  I  must  mention  the  following  Rjses, 
each  of  which  has  a  fragrance  somewhat  elusive, 
but  quite  typical  in  each  case :  La  Toaoa,  La 
Marque,  Goubalt,  Camoens,  Mme.  Alfred 
Carri^re,  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison  and  Pink 
Roamer, 


266 


THE     GARDEN 


[May  29,  1909 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

RASPBERRIES.— There  are  few  fruits 
which  call  for  more  incessant  atten- 
tion during  the  early  months  of  the 
summer  than  Raspberries,  and  there 
is  none  which  gives  a  more  generous 
or  more  highly  appreciated  return. 
It  is  the  custom  of  many  people  to  allow  all  the 
sucker  growths  which  spring  from  the  stools  to 
remain  in  position  right  through  the  season ;  but  it 
is  an  obvious  error,  for  they  have  no  permanent 
value  and  are  constantly  taking  food  from  the 
bearing  canes  and  those  which  will  have  to  crop 
ill  the  following  year.  One  would  not,  of  course, 
go  so  far  as  to  advocate  the  limitation  in  numbers 
to  the  five  or  six  which  remain  for  fruiting,  but 
to  keep  all  is  most  unwise.  For  example,  those 
w  hieh  come  through  the  surface  some  feet  from 
the  row  will  certainly  never  be  wanted,  and  the 
i[uicker  they  are  pulled  up  the  better  ;  the  same 
may  be  said  for  many  of  those  which  are  quite 


results  which  he  achieves.  Incessant  hand- 
picking  and  burning  of  every  abnormal  bud  is 
tedious,  helps  to  keep  idle  fingers  out  of  mis- 
chief and  does  an  immense  amount  of  good  :  but 
one  wishes  that  a  reliable  remedy  which  could 
easily  be  applied  could  be  found.  As  a 
close  observer  and  a  thoroughly  practical 
grower  it  would  not  be  easy  to  find  the  superior 
of  Mr.  Alfred  H.  Pearson  of  Nottingham,  and 
his  advice  on  any  subject  appertaining  to  the 
culture  of  fruit  is  always  worthy  of  the  most 
careful  consideration.  On  more  than  one  occa- 
sion he  has  stated  that  he  has  found  very  great 
benefit  follow  upon  the  use  of  a  soft  soap  and 
quassia  solution  applied  through  a  sprayer  during 
May  and  June.  Mr.  Pearson's  formula  is  4oz. 
of  quassia  and  2oz.  of  soft  soap  to  each  gallon  of 
water,  and  he  recommends  spraying  at  intervals 
of  ten  days.  No  one  can  take  exception  to  the 
wash  as  difficult  to  compound,  expensive  to  pro- 
cure or  offensive  to  apply,  and  therefore  all 
readers  of  The  Garden  who  suffer  from  the 
infestation  should  give  the  dressing  a  thorough 
trial.  Mr.  Pearson  has  proved  that  per- 
fect   cleanliness   may    be   confidently   expected 


THE   FLOWER    GARDEN. 


A  CLimp  OF  roiuxson's  wood  anemone  (a.  nemorosa  rop.i.ssoniana). 


c'oso  in.  Beyond  this  it  is  most  necessary  that 
all  weeds  shall  be  kept  in  subjection  ;  just  as 
the}'  rob  the  plants  in  the  flower  garden  of  food, 
so  dn  they  take  nutrient  matter  from  the  fruit, 
and  Raspberries  cannot  tolerate  any  interference 
in  that  direction.  Having  removed  superfluous 
suckers  and  cleared  away  every  weed,  the 
grower  should  lightly  loosen  the  surface — deep 
stirring  will  result  in  serious  injury  to  the 
roots,  which  are  just  beneath  the  surface 
—  apply  a  good  mulching  of  manure,  and 
leave  the  weather  to  carry  its  virtues  into  the 
ground. 

Big  -  BUD  IN  Black  Currants. — If  the  in- 
fallible cure  for  this  dreaded  pest  has  really  been 
discovered,  as  has  been  asserted  more  than  once, 
it  is  perfectly  obvious  that  all  growers  have  not 
taken  advantage  of  it,  for  it  is  doubtful  if  as 
many  evidences  of  the  presence  of  the  mite  in 
the  plants  have  ever  been  seen  in  any  previous 
year  as  have  been  apparent  this  season.  It 
really  seems  that  there  is  now  scarcely  a  garden 
that  is  free  from  the  enemy,  and  the  amateur  is 
becoming  more  and  more  disappointed  with  the 


after  applications  have  extended  over  two 
seasons.  It  may  be  added  that  Mr.  Pearson 
watches  for  and  removes  any  big  buds  that 
are  seen,  and  to  ensure  the  absolute  destruc- 
tion of  them  and  their  contents  takes  them  to 
the  fire. 

Mulching  Strawberries. — The  mulching  of 
Strawberries  in  such  a  manner  and  with  such  a 
material  that  the  swelling  fruits  will  be  kept 
perfectly  clean  is  a  most  important  detail  of 
management.      Early   in  the  spring  the  use  of 

j  long,  stained  straw  is  recommended,  as  food  is 
conveyed  to  the  plants  and  sufficient  time  is 
allowed    for   the   straw    to   become  quite    clean 

I  before  the  fruits  will  rest  upon  it.  But  it  is 
not  always  convenient  to  do  this,  and  when  the 
present  date  is  reached  it  is  preferable  to  rely 
upon  new,  clean  straw  packed  well  up  to 
the  plants  on  each  side  of  the  row,  but  not 
covering  the  crowns.  This,  however,  should 
never  be  placed  in  position  until  the  bed 
has  been  hoed  to  remove  all  weeds  and  the 
surface  soil  has  been  left  in  as  dusty  a  condition 
as  possible.  Fruit-grower, 


ANEMONE    NEMOROSA    ROBIN- 
SONIANA. 

THERE  are  few  more  beautiful  plants 
among  the  Windflowers  than  the 
varieties  of  our  native  Wood  Anemone 
(A.  nemorosa),  which  is  more  varied 
in  its  colours  and  forms  than  many 
understand.  Very  beautiful  in  the 
garden  are  its  varieties,  some  of  which,  such  as 
A.  n.  braotaeta,  the  Jack-in-the-Green  of  Wind- 
flowers,  or  A.  n.  fiore-pleno,  the  double  variety, 
interest  and  please  all  who  see  them. 

Even  more  fascinating  are  the  coloured  varie- 
ties, giving  shades  of  rose,  purple  and  blue. 
These  are  now  more  numerous  than  of  yore,  but 
one  of  the  most  appreciated  of  all  is  the  lovely 
A.  n.  robinsoniana,  whose  opal-like  flowers  in  a 
group  or  a  mass  are  of  the  highest  beauty  indeed, 
I  call  it  "  opal-like,''  but  it  is  difficult  to  give  its 
colouring  its  proper  description,  although  some 
say  it  is  soft  pale  blue  and  others  call  it  almost 
lavender.  At  any  rate,  it  is  fascinating  in  the 
extreme,  while  the  form  and  the  poise  of  the 
blooms  on  the  plant  render  it  one  of  the  most 
perfect  of  all  the  varieties  of  the  Wood  Anemone. 
It  came,  I  believe,  originally  from  Ireland,  and  was 
espied  in  the  Oxford  Botanic  Gardens  by  Mr.  W, 
Kobinson  and  brought  into  notice  by  him. 

There  is  no  difficulty  in  cultivating  A.  robin- 
soniana, which,  by  the  way,  is  not  so  much 
inclined  to  ramble  at  the  roots  as  some  of  the 
forms  of  the  Wood  Anemone.  It  is  never  out  of 
place,  as  it  is  lovely  for  the  rock  garden,  the 
border  of  hardy  flowers,  the  wild  garden  or  the 
mixed  border.  It  loves  a  soil  of  loam  and  leaf- 
soil  with  a  little  sand  in  it,  and  there  it  grows 
with  comparative  freedom,  although  not  par- 
ticular in  its  requirements,  flowering  well  in 
either  full  sun  or  partial  shade,  such  as  it  has  in 
its  native  haunts.  If  plants  can  be  secured  in 
pots,  they  may  be  planted  at  any  time  ;  but 
autumn  is  generally  the  most  suitable  season  for 
planting  purposes  when  the  Anemones  are  not 
in  pots.  The  tubers  should  be  planted  about 
1  inch  deep. 
Dumfries.  S.  Arnott, 


SAXIFRAGA    CLIBRANII. 

As  will  be  seen  by  the  illustration  on  page  264, 
this  Saxifrage  has  large  flowers  of  good  shape, 
Che  colour  being  a  pleasing  shade  of  red.  It 
belongs  to  the  extensive  mossy  section,  and  as  it 
is  very  free  flowering  may  be  looked  upon  as  a 
most  welcome  acquisition.  It  was  shown  by 
Messrs.  Clibraiis  of  Altrincham,  Manchester, 
before  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  on  the 
4th  inst. ,  when  it  received  an  award  of  merit. 


CHIONODOXA  LUCILLE  ALBA, 
The  white  variety  of  the  lovely  Chionodoxa 
Lucili*,  not  yet  surpassed  in  beauty  by  any  of 
its  allies,  is  a  charming  thing  indeed  in  the 
garden  in  spring,  and  a  potful  when  in  bloom  is 
one  of  the  prettiest  things  one  can  have  in  the 
window  or  in  the  conservatory.  It  is  ae  yet  far 
from  plentiful,  and  seedlings  do  not  always 
come  true  to  colour,  many  giving  blue  flowers, 
so  that  it  is  not  cheap  enough  to  plant  by  the 
hundred  in  the  garden.  It  is  so  lovely,  however, 
that  those  who  can  should  remember  when 
autumn  comes  round  to  purchase  some  bulbs  of 
this  beautiful  Glory  of  the  Snow.     S.  Abnott, 


SCILLA  LILIO-HYACINTHUS  ALBUS, 

A  VERY  old  plant  in  gardens,  but  for  years  little 
cultivated,  the  Lily-leaved  Soilla  is  likely  once 
more  to  come  into  its  own  again,  and  more  and 
more  people  appear  to  be  coming  to  the  con- 
clusion that  they  will  have  room  in  their  gardens 
for  this  pleasing  plant.     It  is  a  native  of  the 


May  29,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN 


267 


Pyrenees,  and  there  are  places  where  the  typical 
blue-flowered  plant  is  found  in  the  greatest 
profusion,  its  pretty  blue  flowers  casting  a 
sheen  upon  the  mountain  -  side  almost,  but 
not  quite,  comparable  with  that  of  our  native 
Soilla  festalis,  the  Bluebell  of  the  English 
woodlands.  How  long  this  Soilla  has  been  in 
British  gardens  it  is  hard  to  say,  but  it  was 
known  to  Parkinson,  who  described  and  figured 
it  under  the  name  of  ' '  The  blew  Lilly  leafed 
Starre  lacinth."  The  white  variety,  now 
scarce,  and  shown  in  the  illustration  on  page 
265,  was  also  referred  to  by  the  old  writer  in 
his  " Paradisus "  in  this  manner:  "  Hyaointhus 
Stellatus  Lilifolius,  albus :  The  White  Lilly 
leafed  Starre  lacinth.  The  likenesse  of  this 
laointh  with  the  former,  causeth  me  to  be  briefe, 
and  not  to  repeate  the  same  things  againe,  that 
haue  already  been  expressed  :  You  may  therefore 
vnderstand,  that  excepting  the  colour  of  the 
flower,  which  in  this  is  white,  there  is  no 
difierence  betweene  them.  I  heare  of  one  that 
should  beare  blush  coloured 
flowers,  but  I  haue  not  yet  seen 
any  such." 

Parkinson  refers  to  a  distin- 
guishing feature  of  the  plant, 
which  has  received  due  notice 
from  writers ;  this  is  the  Lily-like 
scales  of  the  bulbs.  The  general 
character  of  this  Squill  is  so 
clearly  shown  by  the  photograph 
that  few  details  are  necessary. 
It  grows  to  about  1  foot  high  in 
medium  soil ;  the  broad  leaves 
are  rather  handsome,  of  a  glossy 
green,  and  among  them  rise  the 
stems,  bearing  graceful  heads  of 
pretty  flowers,  pure  white  in  the 
one  photographed,  but  of  various 
shades  of  blue  in  the  typical 
species.  It  flowers  about  May,  or 
sometimes  late  in  April.  This 
white  Scilla  Lilio-Hyacinthus  is 
scarce  in  gardens,  but  the  writer 
knows  of  one  old  place  where  it 
has  been  cultivated  tor  many 
years,  and  where  it  thrives  in 
common  soil,  as  it  does  with  him. 
The  variety  having  reddish  or 
blush  flowers  I  have  never  met 
with,  and  judging  from  Parkin- 
son's reference  it  must  have  been 
rare  in  his  day.  It  is  probably 
a  plant  yet  to  be  found  in  some 
old  garden,  or  "on  the  Pyrenean 
Hills  or  that  part  of  France  called 
Aquitaine,"  where  our  "  father  of 
English  gardening "  tells  us  thij 
Lily  Hyacinth  grows. 
Dumfries.  S.  Arnott. 


me  about  the  Poetaz.  Everyone  liked  them  and 
said  they  must  have  some  themselves  another 
year."  Their  special  value  consists  in  their 
adaptability  and  suitability  as  pot  plants. 
Compared  with  the  old-fashioned  Polyanthus 
Naffoissus  they  have  many  points  in  their  favour. 
First,  their  scent  is  pleasant  and  agreeable, 
quite  unlike  the  heavy  and  (to  use  a  word  of 
Parkinson)  stuffing  perfume  of  the  latter. 
Secondly,  they  have  nice  long  flower-stems  and 
the  flowers  are  carried  well  above  the  foliage. 
Thirdly,  they  are  as  hardy  in  the  coldest  districts 
as  any  ordinary  Dafifodil.  And,  lastly,  the  flowers 
themselves,  although  never  so  many  in  a  bunch, 
are  much  finer  and  better  than  any  in  the  older 
section,  with  the  exception  of  Bazelman  major, 
Muzart  orientalis  and,  possibly,  one  or  two  more. 
The  only  caution  that  I  feel  I  need  give  with 
regard  to  their  cultivation  under  glass  is  that 
my  present  experience  warns  me  not  to  attempt 
to  force  them  too  early,  but  to  treat  them  more 
like  ornatus  and  to  be  coptent  with  flowering 


POETAZ    NARCISSI. 

The  ups  and  downs  of  different 
kinds  of  Daffodils  and  Tulips  in 
public  favour  would  form  an  interesting  and 
surprising  article  if  anyone  were  to  take  the 
subject  up  and  write  one.  The  man  who  first 
bought  the  stock  of  Tulip  Coleur  Cardinal  was 
blamed  by  his  father  for  making  suoh  a  poor 
purchase,  and  for  a  long  time  it  was  practically 
unsaleable  ;  and  only  last  year  Glory  of  Leiden 
Daffodil  might  have  been  purchased  in  the 
wholesale  market  for  a  less  sum  than  it  can  be 
bought  to-day.  The  Poetaz  section  of  the 
Narcissus  family  has  now  been  in  commerce  for 
some  years,  but  up  to  the  present  it  is  not 
appreciated  as  much  as  its  intrinsic  merits 
warrant  it  should  be.  Perhaps  when  it  is  better 
known  the  flower-loving  public  will  grow  it  in 
larger  quantities.  My  object  in  these  notes  is  to 
introduce  some  of  the  best  kinds  to  the  notice  of 
the  readers  of  The  Garden,  feeling  sure  that 
their  verdict  will  not  be  very  different  from  that 
of  a  friend  whom  I  persuaded  to  try  them  this 
spring.    "Thanks  so  much,"  he  said,  "  fortelling 


NARCISSUS  POETAZ   IRENE. 

them  about  the  middle  of  February  and  onwards. 
In  the  open  they  are  perfectly  hardy  and  may 
remain  for  two  or  three  years  in  the  same  place  ; 
longer  would  not  be  advisable,  as  most  varieties 
increase  quickly. 

Origin  and  General  Description. 

In  the  year  1885  there  happened  to  be  growing 
side  by  side  in  the  bulb  fields  of  Messrs.  R.  van 
der  Schoot  and  Son,  at  Hillegom,  some  beds  of 
ornatus  and  different  kinds  of  Tazetta.  A  happy 
inspiration  suggested  that  an  attempt  should  be 
made  to  cross  them.  The  ornatus  was  chosen 
as  the  seed  parent,  and  such  kinds  as  Bazelman 
major,  Gloriosa,  Grand  Monarque,  Staten  Gene- 
raal,  and  two  or  three  of  the  best  yellows  were 
used  for  their  pollen.  There  was  a  fair  crop  of 
seed,  which  in  due  course  was  sown  and  germi- 
nated. When  the  seedlings  became  flowering 
plants  the  best  were  selected  and  the  task  of 
working  up  stocks  began.     I  had  the  pleasure  of 


seeing  large  patches  of  them  in  their  original 
home  in  Hillegom  at  the  end  of  April.  I  then 
understood  why  two  varieties,  Jaune  a  Merveille 
and  Sunset,  are  so  expensive  compared  with 
others  like  Elvira  and  Alsace  ;  it  is  because  they 
increase  so  slowly  compared  with  the  others. 
In  their  general  appearance  this  new  race  par- 
takes of  the  characters  of  both  parents.  The 
Poet  shows  itself  in  the  larger  flowers  and  in  some 
of  the  cups,  while  the  Tazetta  appears  in  their 
having  several  flowers  upon  one  stem.  To  sum 
up,  they  may  be  described  as  a  large-flowered 
Polyanthus  Narcissus  having  from  two  to  six 
blooms  on  a  stem,  more  pleasantly  scented  and, 
generally  speaking,  witha  looser  and  more  artistic 
perianth.  The  photograph  of  Narcissus  Poetaz 
Irene  on  this  page  gives  a  good  idea  of  their 
general  appearance. 

Varieties. 
Alsace. — Tlie   best  for   early   work    in    pots 
Perianth,    wliite;     cup,     yellow;     about     three 
flowers  on  a  stem. 

Aspasia.  —  The  best  of  the 
whites  for  out  of  doors.  Fine 
large  flowers,  carried  well  above 
the  foliage.  Perianth,  white  and 
flat ;  cup,  yellow ;  from  two  to  five 
flowers  on  a  stem. 

Elvira.— Good  for  the  latest 
batch  in  pots.  Nice  flat  flower 
with  a  white  perianth  and  a 
yellow  cup,  edged  with  orange 
when  it  first  opens.  Generally 
three  to  five  flowers  on  a  stem. 

Ideal. — A  small  flower  with  a 
rather  uneven  white  perianth  and 
a  very  deep  orange  cup.  Very  free, 
with  usually  four  to  six  flowers  on 
a  stem. 

/rf  )te.— Asmall-flowered  variety 
with  a  pale  primrose  perianth  and 
a  fluted  deep  yellow  cup.  A  very 
free  bloomer. 

Jaune  a  Mtrveille. — A  magnifi- 
cent yellow.  It  is  very  nearly  a 
self,  but  has  an  edge  of  red 
round  the  cup  when  it  is  grown 
cool.  The  individual  flowers  are 
large  and  their  perianths  even  and 
flat.  From  four  to  six  flowers  on 
a  stem.  The  best  yellow  for  pots. 
Late  flowering. 

Klondyhe  and  Lucia.— Some- 
what similar  varieties  of  a  deeper 
shade  of  yellow  than  Irene.  Of 
the  two  I  consider  Lucia  the  best. 
It  has  better  foliage  and  its 
perianth  does  not  turn  back  so 
much.  Both  kinds  are  very  free. 
Sunset.  —A  very  beautiful  flower 
with  a  broad,  overlapping  yellow 
perianth  and  a  deep  orange  cup. 
It  is  a  very  delightful  flower  in 
pots  and  quite  unlike  any  other 
variety.  Unfortunately,  the  price 
of  this  kind  and  also  of  Jaune  k 
Merveille  is  high,  and  as  they  increase  slowly 
I  fear  it  will  be  some  time  before  it  is  lower. 

Triumph.  -  A  very  large  white,  but  not  wanted 
if  Aspasia  is  grown.  There  are  a  few  other  fine 
things  in  this  section  which  at  present  are  not  in 
commerce  or  are  very  expensive.  One  is  Orient, 
a  fine  tall  variety  raised  by  Mr.  Engleheart, 
with  a  beautiful  white  Almira-shaped  perianth 
and  a  yellow  cup  with  a  most  distinct  red  edge. 
Another  is  Scarlet  Gem,  a  new  variety  with  a 
red  cup,  listed  by  Messrs.  Cartwright  and 
Goodwin  at  £5  each.  It  obtained  an  award  of 
merit  this  year  at  Birmingham.  A  third  is  a 
lovely  variety  which  I  saw  this  year  at  Messrs. 
de  Graaff's  in  Holland.  It  is  a  larger  edition  of 
Scarlet  Gem.  There  may  be  other  kinds  in  the 
making,  but  until  they  make  their  appearance 
I  think  there  are  enough  in  the  above  list  to 
supply  sweet-scented  pots  of  flowers  for  the 
house  or  the  conservatory  in  the  early  months 
of  the  year.  Joseph  Jacob. 


•268 


THE     GARDEN. 


(May  29,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEKK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN. -HedcliDg-out  will 
this  week  be  in  full  swing,  and  if  the 
information  given  in  previous  calen- 
dars has  been  acted  upon  the  plants 
and  beds  will  be  in  proper  condition 
for  the  work.  The  designs,  of  course, 
will  be  decided  upon  before  the  work  is  com- 
menced.     All  the  plants  which  are  to  occupy  a 


I. — AN  OLD   PLANT  OF  SACE  LIFTED  READY  FOR 
DIVISrON. 

bed  should  be  laid  out  before  planting  is  com- 
menced ;  then  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  make  any 
rearrangement  that  may  be  necessary,  and  the 
planter  is  also  able  to  see  whether  the  material 
avail-ible  will  allow  of  the  plants  going  as  close 
together  as  is  desirable.  Planting  should  always 
be  done  with  a  trowel  and  the  soil  made  firm 
around  the  roots,  levelling  over  the  surface  as 
the  work  proceeds.  A  good  watering  in  must  bo 
a£Fi)rded  as  soon  after  planting  as  possible,  and 
should  the  weather  subsequently  prove  dry,  other 
w.iterings  must  be  given  until  the  plants  are  well 
estibllshed.  Where  tall,  old  plants  of  Geraniums 
and  Marguerites  have  to  be  used  to  eke  out  the 
supply,  these  may  with  advantage  be  planted  in  a 
sloping  manner,  so  that  their  tops  do  not  unduly 
rise  above  the  others.  In  most  localities  it  will 
now  be  safe  to  plant  out  Dahlias  from  pots,  and 
where  the  stations  were  prepared  as  advised  a 
few  weeks  ago,  the  work  will  not  take  up  much 
time.  A  stout  stake  should  be  placed  in  position 
first  and  then  the  plant  set  against  this.  A 
sprinkling  of  soot  around,  not  on,  the  plant  after 
watering  will  keep  slugs  at  bay.  Where  seeds 
of  annuals  were  left  over  in  the  packets  at 
sowing  time,  some  of  these  may  be  sown  now, 
and  if  the  weather  proves  at  all  favourable,  the 
resultant  plants  will  give  a  good  account  of 
themselves  in  the  autumn. 

Vegetable  Garden  — French  Beans  in  pots  may 
now  be  planted  out  in  rows  15  inches  apart, 
allowing  a  distance  of  1  foot  between  the  plants. 
M»ke  a  further  sowing  of  Scarlet  Runners  to 
follow  those  sown  earlier  ;  that  is,  where  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  this  vegetable  is  desired. 
Tomatoes  may  be  planted  out  in  warm,  sunny 
positions,  taking  care  to  disturb  the  roots  as  little 
as  possible.  Where  grown  against  a  wall  or  close 
boarded  fence,  the  plants  may  be  placed  18  inches 
apart,  keeping  all  side  shoots  pinched  out  as  they 


appear,  so  as  to  confine  the  plant  to  one  stem. 
They  must  be  secured  to  the  wall  as  soon  as 
planted,  but  be  careful  to  allow  room  for  the 
stem  to  swell.  Where  planted  in  the  open  the 
rows  should  be  3  feet  6  inches  apart  and  the 
plants  18  inches  asunder,  providing  stout 
stakes  for  support  and  pinching  out  side 
shoots  as  previously  advised.  Greens,  such  as 
Brussels  Sprouts,  Cabbages  and  Cauliflowers,  that 
were  sown  in  the  open  as  advised  in  March,  are  now 
ready  for  planting  in  their  permanent  quarters, 
and  a  rainy  day  should,  if  possible,  be  chosen  for 
the  work.  The  plants  should  be  lifted  from  the 
seed-bed  with  a  hand  fork  or  trowel  (not  pulled, 
as  is  usually  done)  and  replanted  where  they  are 
to  grow  by  means  of  a  trowel.  The  distance 
apart  to  plant  will  depend  upon  the  variety,  but 
instructions  on  this  point  are  usually  given 
with  the  seed.  Watering  \(ill  be  needed  should 
the  weather  prove  at  all  dry,  and  any  neglect  in 
this  respect  will  mean  considerable  losses. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  fruits  of  Strawberries  are 
now  swelling  freely,  and  where  extra  fine  speci- 
mens are  desired  a  good  soaking  with  weak 
liquid  manure  at  intervals  of  about  four  days  will 
be  of  great  assistance,  first  watering  with  clear 
water.  Vines  in  cool  houses  will  by  now  have 
set  their  fruits,  and  the  latter  will  be  swelling 
freely,  consequently  thinning  of  the  berries  must 
be  attended  to.  A  long,  pointed  pair  of  scissors 
must  be  used  and  a  piece  of  stick  about  a  foot 
long  employed  to  steady  the  bunch,  it  being 
unwise  to  touch  the  berries  with  the  hands. 
First  cut  out  all  small  and  malformed  fruits,  then 
those  that  are  placed  inside  the  bunch,  taking 
into  consideration  the  general  shape  it  is  desired 
the  cluster  should  take.  Shoulders,  which  are 
produced  freely  in  some  instances,  should  he 
thinned  the  same  as  the  main  portion  of  the 
hunch  and  then  looped  up  with  raffia  or  Raffiatape 
to  the  wires.  It  is  a  mistake  to  cut  these  shoulder.« 
right  oflf  unless  bunches  of  a  particularly  good 
shape  are  required. 

Greenhovse  and  Frames  — It  is  now  time  to  sow 
Cinerarias,  and  every  beginner  in  gardening 
should  try  his  or  her  hand  at  these.  The  one 
point  to  observe  above  all  others  in  their  culture 
is  coel  treatment ;  coddling  must  not  at  any  time 
be  resorted  to,  or  disaster  is  certain  to  accrue. 
Shallow  pans  or  boxes  that  are  well  drained  are 
the  best  receptacles  for  sowing  the  seeds  in,  soil 
composed  of  good  loam  two  parts,  peat  or  leaf- 
soil  one  part,  and  silver  sand  one  part  being  suit- 
able. This  must  be  finely  sifted  and  made 
moderately  firm  in  the  pans  or  boxes,  filling  these 
to  within  half  an  inch  of  their  rims.  Scatter  the 
seed  thinly  and  evenly  on  the  surface  and  cover 
with  a  mere  sprinkling  of  the  fine  soil,  after 
which  carefully  water  and  cover  with  brown 
paper,  standing  the  boxes  or  pans  in  a  cool  corner 
of  the  greenhouse.  Remove  the  paper  as  soon  as 
the  seedlings  appear  and  grow  them  on  near  the 
glass  in  a  freely  ventilated  house  or  frame.  When 
large  enough  to  handle  they  must  be  potted  singly 
into  small  pots  and  moved  into  larger  ones  as 
growth  advances.  H. 


warm  aspect,  and  if  the  plants  are  to  be  seen  to 
advantage  they  should  be  planted  in  a  border 
facing  west,  where  the  soil  is  of  a  well-drained 
character.  Should  the  soil  of  the  garden  be  of 
heavy  texture,  this  may  be  improved  by 
thoroughly  trenching  it,  incorporating  at  the 
time  a  heavy  dressing  of  well-rotted  horse- 
manure,  road-grit,  wood-ashes  and  leaf-mould 
when  the  latter  can  be  obtained  on  the  spot. 
The  common  Sage  may  be  propagated  by  seeds, 
cuttings,  or  by  division  of  the  old  plants.  Seeds 
should  be  sown  in  a  warm  border  in  the  spring, 
March  or  April  answering  the  purpose  well.  As 
soon  as  the  seedlings  can  be  handled  with  ease, 
they  must  be  pricked  out  in  specially  prepared 
quarters,  observing  a  distance  between  the 
young  plants  of  about  4  inches.  A  year  sub- 
sequent to  this  operation  these  seedling  plants 
will  have  developed  into  useful  little  specimens, 
at  which  period  they  should  be  planted  in  their 
permanent  quarters.  This  method  of  raising 
Sage  from  seed,  however,  is  a  rather  sluw  pro- 
cess, and  few  growers  are  disposed  to  wait  fo 
long  for  results  when  they  can  obtain  useful 
plants  in  a  much  less  time  with  a  minimum  of 
trouble  by  division  of  the  old  plants  or  by  the 
insertion  of  cuttings.  Of  these  methods  the 
former  is  to  be  preferred.  In  order  to  make  the 
matter  quite  clear  to  the  beginner,  we  have  por- 
trayed in  Fig.  1  a  well  established  plant  that 
has  been  lifted  from  the  open  border.  A  close 
observation  of  the  plant  will  reveal  the  well- 
rooted  character  of  this  specimen.      Now,  the 


THE  COMMON  SAGE  AND  ITS  CULTURE. 

The  common  Sage  is  one  of  our  most  popular 
garden  hertts  and  is  a  subject  that  may  be 
grown  with  comparative  ease.  The  plant  is 
known  to  botanists  by  the  name  of  Salvia 
officinalis,  and  is  a  perennial ;  an  evergreen  shrub 
more  correctly  describes  the  plant.  Market 
growers  often  devote  considerable  areas  to  this 
subject  and  find  it  more  profitable  than  most 
other  herbs.      It  revels  in  a  border  that  has  a 


2. — TWO  EXAMPLES  OF  THE  DIVIUBD  PIECES 
OBTAINED  FROM  THE  PLANT  SHOWN  IN 
FIG.  I. 

beginner  should  understand  that  plants  of  this 

description   divide    quite  easily.       By  inserting 

the  thumbs  and  fingers  well  into  the  crown  of 

the    plant    we   may   first  of   all  divide  such   a 

specimen  into  three  or  four  pieces  of  goodly  pro- 

j  portions,     too     large    in    themselves    to     plant 

;  individually  if  our  object  be  that  of  making  the 

most  of  our  material.     These  large  pieces  should 

therefore  be  sub-divided,  and  as  many  pieces  as 

j  possible,  similar  to  those  represented  in  Fig.  2, 


May  29,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


269 


3. — A   SAGE   CUTTING    PREPARED   REAUy   KOK 
INSERTION. 

be  brought  into  being.  In  the  two  pieces  in 
the  illustration  readers  will  notice  there  is  a 
plentiful  supply  of  roots. 

How  to  deal  with  these  rooted  divided  por- 
tions of  the  old  plants  is  the  next  matter  for 
consideration.  Those  which  are  well  furnished 
with  roots  should  be  immediately  planted  in  the 
prepared  quarters  already  referred  to  in  rows 
about  2  feet  apart,  observing  a  distance  between 
the  plants  of  about  1  foot.  This  will  afford 
ample  space  for  the  plants  to  make  good,  useful 
specimens  without  being  overcrowded.  If  the 
plants  are  made  to  alternate  in  the  rows  thus 
*  *  ;.  »  '  »  *  so  much  the  better,  as  more 
space  is  gained  ultimately  when  the  plants  need 
it.  The  method  of  planting  outdoors  is  aptly 
portrayed  in  Kg.  i.  Water  in  after  planting, 
so  that  the  soil  may  be  nicely  settled  round  the 
roots.  We  should  have  mentioned  before  that 
planting  must  be  done  in  a  firm  manner.  Pro- 
pagation by  cuttings  is  simple  enough.  Slips 
that  are  pulled  off  the  old  plants  and  having  no 
roots  are  quite  suitable.  Decaying  or  seared 
foliage  must  be  removed  and  the  cuttings  dibbled 
in  forthwith  in  rather  fine  soil  in  rows  6  inches 
apart  and  a  distance  observed  between  the 
cuttings  of  about  4  inches.  Make  the  soil  firm 
at  the  base  of  each.  The  soil  must  be  main- 
tained in  a  moist  condition  during  the  rooting 
process.  When  rooted,  the  cuttings  (young 
plants)  should  be  planted  as  suggested  for  the 
divided  pieces  that  were  rooted.  Fig.  3  is  a 
good  type  of  Sage  cutting.  The  present  is 
an  excellent  time  to  propagate  the  common 
Sage,  and  under  conditions  such  as  we  have 
described  we  have  no  anxiety  about  the  ultimate 
result.  U.  B.  C. 

MULCHES  AND  WHEN  TO  APPLY 
THEM. 
The  summer  mulching  of  various  plants  is  an 
important  phase  of  English  gardening,  yet  it  is 
one  that  there  seems  to  be  a  good  deal  of 
confusion  over,  more  particularly  in  the  minds  of 
amateurs.  At  the  outset  of  these  notes  it  may  be 
as  well  to  consider  the  object  of  mulching  during 
the  summer  months,  and  this  may  be  briefly 
summed  up  in  the  following  sentence  :  For  the 
preservation  of  moisture  in  the  soil  and,  in  some 
instances,  the  providing  of  food  for  the  plants. 
Then    the    suDstance    of    which    the    mulch    is 


composed  must  be  considered,  and  there  can  bp 
little  doubt  that  the  best  is  short,  partly  decayed 
stable  or  farmyard  manure.  Even  a  mulch  ol 
fine  soil  will  frequently  be  of  eonsiderablt 
advantage.  Having  thus  decided  why  mulching 
should  be  done  and  the  best  material  for  the 
work,  we  may  now  consider  when  the  mulch  should 
be  applied  and  to  what  crops  it  is  likely  to  be  of 
especial  benefit.  There  is  no  doubt  whatevei 
that  the  majority  of  mulches  are  applied  far  too 
early  in  the  season,  i.e.,  before  the  soil  has 
become  thoroughly  warmed  by  the  sun,  with  the 
result  that  the  roots  are  kept  in  a  cold  medium 
for  a  considerably  longer  period  than  they  would 
be  were  the  mulching  material  withheld  for  a 
time.  Again,  it  is  useless  putting  on  a  mulch  in 
preserve  moisture  when  the  soil  is  in  a  compara- 
tively dry  condition.  These  two  points  fully 
grasped,  the  beginner  is  not  likely  to  go  far 
wrong  :  he  will  know  that  the  mulch  must  not  be 
put  on  until  the  soil  is  thoroughly  warmed  and 
well  soaked  with  rain  ;  just  when  this  will  be,  of 
course,  will  depend  on  circumstances,  but,  gene- 
rally speaking,  a  mulch  is  not  required  until 
•June  is  in. 

Next  comes  the  question  :  To  what  plants  may 
the  mulch  be  given  with  advantage  ?  Generally 
speaking,  all  newly  planted  trees  and  shrubs 
derive  great  benefit  from  a  mulch  intelligently 
employed,  and  the  same  remark  applies  to  her- 
baceous plants  where  the  soil  is  of  a  rather  sandy 
character.  Then  there  are  such  plants  as  herbaceous 
Phloxes,  which  naturally  delight  in  a  moist  root- 
run,  and  these  will  very  much  enjoy  any  attention 
given  them  in  this  respect.  Sweet  Peas,  too, 
will  benefit  from  a  good  mulching  of  partly  de- 
cayed manure.  To  whatever  plants  it  is  applied, 
however,  it  is  wise  to  keep  the  manure  from 
coming  into  actual  contact  with  the  stems  ;  in 
many  cases  it  may  not  do  any  harm,  but  some- 
times serious  injury  is  caused,  and  it  is  beet  to 
err  on  the  safe  side. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Bedding-out. — The  season  lias  once  more  come 
when  the  work  of  bedding-out  for  the  summer 
months  must  be  attended  to.  This  work  ib 
generally  regarded  very  seriously  by  owners  of 
town  gardens,  because  so  much  depends  upon  the 
work  being  done  well.  The  general  appearance 
of  the  whole  garden  for  several  months  to  come 
may  be  good  or  bad,  just  according  to  the 
arrangements  made  at  the  present  time.  To 
satisfactorily  fill  a  small  border  demands  as  much 
care  and  forethought  as  to  deal  with  a  very  large 
one  ;  indeed,  it  is  often  a  more  difficult  matter. 
In  the  first  place,  it  is  advisable  to  make  notes 
of  the  different  stocks  of  plants  in  hand,  and  so 
ascertain  how  many  must  be  pur- 
chased if  certain  designs  are  to  be 
carried  out  or  whether  there  are 
sufficient.  Of  course,  if  previous 
hints  given  in  The  Garden  have 
been  carried  out,  all  the  beds  will 
have  been  well  manured,  so  that 
at  present  it  will  be  necessary  only 
to  level  the  surface  of  the  soil  and 
put  in  the  plants. 

Formal  Bedding-oit. — Where 
rather  small  beds  have  to  be  filled , 
to  avoid  a  somewhat  formal 
arrangement  is  not  always  possible; 
but  where  dwarf-growing  subjects 
are  grown  chiefly,  then  the  surface 
of  the  border  must  be  raised  more 
or  less  ;  more  if  the  soil  be  clayey 
and  not  so  much  if  it  be  of  a  light, 
sandy  nature.  For  example,  Violas 
and  Pansies  look  best  in  beds 
which  have  been  nicely  raised ; 
large  borders  filled  with  dwarf 
plants  to  form  a  carpet  and  tall 
ones  as  dot  plants  may  have  a 
perfectly  level  surface.    If  in  some        4. — hooted 


eases  plants  are  scarce,  edgings  to  small  beds 
may  be  omitted  ;  but  in  the  others  broad,  bold 
edgings  look  well  in  Urge  beds. 

The  First  Plants  to  Put  Out.— Pansies 
and  Violas  ought  to  be  planted  first  and  then 
Calceolarias.  The  latter  rarely  prove  quite 
satisfactory  if  they  are  planted  late  in  the  season, 
especially  if  the  soil  be  very  light.  Calceolarias 
are  more  hardy  than  is  generally  supposed  by 
many  amateurs,  and  they  always  succeed  best  if 
planted  in  their  flowering  quarters  pretty  early. 
Of  course,  it  is  not  always  convenient  to  plant 
them  as  early  as  one  would  wish  where  the  beds 
are  filled  with  spring-flowering  subjects,  but 
directly  the  latter  are  cleared  away  put  in  the 
Calceolarias.  They  are  fine  plants  for  town 
gardens,  and  grow  well  in  any  ordinary  soil  and 
in  almost  any  position.  A  very  hot  one  is  the 
least  suitable,  but  partially  shaded  beds  and 
rather  draughty  places  are  more  suitable  for 
them  than  many  other  kinds  of  plants. 

Hardening  Tender  Plants. — Continue  the 
hardening  process  in  the  case  of  tender  subjects, 
as  by  the  middle  of  June  every  plant  must  be 
put  out,  and  if  duly  hardened  the  most  tender 
kinds  will  withstand  the  weather  at  that  time. 
They  ought  to  be  exposed  now,  but  be  kept  in  a 
sheltered  part  of  the  garden. 

Vegetable  Marrows. — Not  only  are  these 
plants  useful,  but  they  are  ornamental,  too. 
Being  of  strong  constitution  and  rapid  in  growth 
they  are  very  suitable  for  town  gardens.  There 
is  no  need  of  large  manure-heaps  on  which 
to  grow  the  plants  ;  they  often  suffer  much  on 
the  dry  beds.  The  cultivator  must  dig  out  some 
soil,  making  a  hole  18  inches  deep  and  3  feet 
across  ;  then  a  portion — about  half — of  the 
original  soil  must  be  returned  to  the  hole  mixed 
with  a  similar  quantity  of  well-rotted  manure. 
A  hot-bed  is  not  necessary.  Two  plants  may  be 
put  in  each  prepared  bed,  one  being  trained  to 
the  left  and  the  other  to  the  right.  The  best 
position  is  one  where  the  sun  will  reach  the 
plants  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day. 
Vegetable  Marrow  plants  may  be  trained  on  walls 
or  low  fences,  where  they  will  bear  fruits  freely 
jLiid  are  really  very  ornamental.  The  soil  must 
be  prepared  for  the  young  plants  just  the  same 
as  when  they  are  grown  in  an  open  border.  If 
the  beds  are  got  ready  now,  the  plants  may  be 
put  out  during  the  second  week  in  June.  Where 
a  collection  of  the  dift'erent  varieties  are  grown, 
they  prove  very  interesting.  Hibberd's  Prolific 
bears  small,  egg-shaped  Marrows ;  Muir's  Hybrid 
Prolific  bears  globular  fruits  about  6  inches  in 
diameter ;  so  also  are  the  fruits  of  Pen-y-byd, 
the  latter  variety  being  very  prolific.  Long 
Green,  Long  White,  Moore's  Cream,  Green  Bush 
and  White  Bush  are  all  splendid  sorts  bearing 
long  fruits.  Avon. 


^^^«.irHH 

BB^  ^f     •■"*;»^^^^^^" 

,'     "^  ■ 

■   ^-^^ 

PIECES  planted  in  THEIR  PERMANENT  QUARTERS. 


270 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[May  29,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

TUBEROUS-ROOTED  BEGONIAS.— 
Where  these  are  used  extensively 
for  the  embellishment  of  the  flower 
garden  it  is  very  essential  that  the 
plants  be  grown  sturdily  and  hard. 
They  require  a  deep,  well-manured 
soil,  and  the  plants  should  be  allowed  a 
reasonable  amount  of  room  for  development. 
During  the  summer  months  good  soakings  with 
liquid  manure  at  intervals  will  add  greatly  to 
the  growth  and  size  of  bloom. 

Calceolarias  may  be  put  out  on  well-prepared 
beds  :  let  the  soil  be  well  worked  and  a  good 
supply  of  thoroughly  decayed  manure  added. 

Pansies  are  often  in  great  request,  and  give  a 
good  display  where  the  position  and  soil  suit 
them.  They  thrive  best  in  a  eool,  rich,  deeply 
worked  soil,  and  should  be  given  a  good  mulching 
over  and  about  the  roots  during  the  heat  of  the 
summer,  with  copious  supplies  of  water  during 
very  dry  weather.  Sow  more  Sweet  Peas  and 
stake  others  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  high 
enough  to  need  supporting.  Stake  Carnations 
before  the  flowers  fall  about  and  get  damaged  by 
coming  in  contact  with  the  soil. 

Sub-tropical  Oardening. — Plants  for  this  pur- 
pose need  to  be  well  hardened,  so  as  to  with- 
stand the  strong  rays  of  the  sun  ;  otherwise  the 
leaves  quickly  assume  a  sickly  appearance.  If 
the  positions  are  suitable  for  this  class  of  bedding, 
avoid  formal  designs. 

Hardy  Froits. 

Wall  Trees. — Examine  the  borders  of  all  fruit 
trees  growing  against  south  walls,  and  should 
water  be  required  to  moisten  the  roots  and  soil 
to  a  good  depth,  see  that  this  is  abundantly 
supplied.  Go  over  all  Peach  and  Nectarine 
trees,  removing  shoots  not  wanted  and  tying  in 
those  required  to  fruit  next  season  before  they 
get  hard  and  brittle.  Rub  off  any  of  the  small 
fruits  where  they  have  set  very  thickly,  so  that 
others  may  be  strengthened.  Prevent  over- 
crowding ot  the  wood  and  heavy  cropping,  which 
are  the  cause  of  many  trees  failing  to  fruit 
regularly.  Newly  planted  trees  must  not  be 
overlooked.  If  the  weather  proves  dry,  attend 
well  to  the  watering  and  mulching. 

Pear  Trees. — These  may  be  gone  over  and  the 
shoots  growing  outwards  stopped.  Some  of  the 
new  wood  which  will  not  be  wanted  can  be 
removed  entirely  and  other  growths  shortened. 
An  active  man  can  do  much  of  this  work  and  go 
over  a  large  number  of  trees  in  a  few  days. 

KiTCHEK  Garden. 

Globe  Artichokes. — Suckers  taken  irom  older 
plants  a  week  or  two  ago  and  planted  in  clumps 
of  threes,  the  clumps  being  4  feet  to  6  feet 
apart,  should  be  kept  watered  till  they  have 
become  well  established  ;  from  these  a  capital 
supply  of  heads  will  be  supplied  and  form  a  good 
succession  to  the  older  plants.  I  much  prefer 
suckers  to  raising  the  plants  from  seeds. 
Attend  to  staking  Runner  Beans,  Peas,  and  bow 
more  seed  for  later  supplies. 

Green  Crops. — If  the  land  intended  for  the 
Brassica  crops  is  not  at  liberty  when  the  plants 
are  large  enough  to  be  planted  from  the  seed- 
beds, prick  them  off  into  nursery  quarters  to 
prevent  a  weak  growth,  and  where  club  is 
troublesome  do  not  let  the  young  plants  remain 
in  the  seed-beds  longer  than  is  necessary,  as  plants 
when  left  too  crowded  till  they  get  drawn  and 
the  roots  dry  are,  as  a  rule,  more  subject  to 
club.  TI.  Markuam. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 

Wrotham  Park  Oarcktis,  Bamei. 


FOR   THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Indoor     Fruits. 

Vines. — In  the  early  house  fruit  will  now  be 
changing  colour,  or  perhaps  approaching  ripeness. 
As  the  former  condition  becomes  apparent  more 
air  may  with  advantage  be  admitted,  subject,  of 
course,  to  outside  influences,  and  a  drier 
atmosphere  maintained  within  the  house.  At 
night  the  top  ventilators  may  be  left  slightly 
open,  and  after  a  few  days  the  same  can  be 
followed  with  those  below,  thus  providing  a 
circulation  of  air,  at  the  same  time  keeping  a 
gentle  heat  in  the  pipes  to  assist  in  this,  as  well 
as  to  dispel  moisture  and  prevent  its  condensation 
on  the  berries  in  early  morning,  to  their  after 
disfigurement.  In  late  houses  growth  should  be 
encouraged  by  closing  the  ventilators  early  and, 
at  the  same  time,  using  moisture  freely  until 
the  flowering  period.  In  newly  constructed 
houses  with  the  overhead  trellis  IS  inches  or 
more  from  the  glass,  tying  down  of  the  shoots 
may  profitably  be  deferred  until  the  fruit  is  set, 
as  by  then  some  degree  of  toughness  is  assured, 
and  the  risk  of  breakage  at  the  point  of  junction 
with  the  rods  is  reduced. 

Figs. — With  the  increase  of  sun-heat  and  the 
admittance  of  more  air  to  the  house,  together 
with  the  greater  expanse  of  foliage,  abundant 
supplies  of  water  at  the  roots  will  be  required. 
Heavy  syringings  are  helpful  in  this,  as  well  as 
in  keeping  the  plants  clean.  If  the  water  supply 
is  ample  for  all  requirements,  mulching  to  retain 
moisture  may  be  dispensed  with,  as  it  is  apt 
to  encourage  gross  growth  and  consequent 
unfruitfulness  ;  but  rather  than  allow  the  plants 
to  suffer  for  want  of  this  essential  element, 
covering  the  root  surfaces  with  light,  clean  litter 
may  decide  between  success  or  failure  of  the 
crop. 

Strawberries. — To  maintain  the  supply  of  fruit 
until  the  outside  crop  is  ripe,  it  may  be  advisable 
to  retard  some  of  the  plants  in  pots  by  placing 
them,  when  the  fruit  is  set,  in  a  north  aspect,  as 
behind  a  wall  or  hedge.  Stimulants  by  way  of 
liquid  manure  may  be  more  freely  applied  than 
formerly,  and  a  greater  number  of  fruits  may 
correspondingly  be  allowed  to  mature  on  each 
plant.  Plants  that  have  fruited  and  been 
hardened  off  may,  if  healthy,  be  planted  in  the 
open  for  producing  another  crop  in  autumn. 
Kitchen  Garden  Department 

Celery. — Rich  soil  and  sufficient  moisture  are 
essentials  for  this  crop,  and  the  well-known 
method  of  making  trenches  and  placing  manure 
and  soil  therein  finds  favour  with  cultivators  in 
general.  The  practice,  however,  may  vary 
according  to  situation  and  depth  of  good  soil,  for 
it  is  inadvisable  to  raise  a  crude  subsoil  so  that 
it  gets  in  contact  with  the  roots  ;  but  the  same 
heavily  manured  and  turned  over  and  exposed  to 
the  weather  for  a  time  if  possible,  makes  an 
excellent  stratum  whereon  to  place  better 
material  to  receive  the  roots.  Single  lines  of 
plants  in  trenches  4  feet  apart  from  centre  to 
centre,  are  best  and  most  conveniently  managed; 
but  if  a  third  more  space  is  given,  two  lines  may 
be  planted  in  each  trench,  thus  allowing  of  more 
plants  being  grown  upon  a  given  area. 

Summer  Salads. — Lettuces  are  the  principal 
for  this,  and  to  obtain  these  well-hearted  and 
succulent,  good  soil  and  careful  attention  paid  to 
thinning  the  plants  in  good  time  are  necessary. 
For  some  time  to  come  transplanting  may  be 
dispensed  with.  The  ridges  between  Celery 
trenches  are  very  suitable  for  Lettuces  in  hot 
weather ;  here  the  seed  may  be  sown  and  the 
plants  thinned,  thus  avoiding  any  severe  check 
to  growth.  Corn-salad  deserves  more  prominence 
than  it  apparently  gets  at  present.  Sown  in  a 
shady  position  it  is  soon  ready  for  use,  and  many 
gatherings  may  be  taken  from  the  same  plot. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

Qalloway  House.,  Qarliealcm,  Wigtoivnshire. 


NEW     PLANTS. 


Odontioda  Vuylsteke.*  crawshayana. — This 
is  a  remarkably  bright  and  attractive  flower,  the 
blossoms  being  of  good  shape.  The  colour  is  an 
intense  scarlet  crimson,  with  the  usual  small 
yellow  patch  in  the  centre  of  the  labellum. 
Shown  by  de  B.  Crawshay,  Esq.,  Sevenoaks. 
First-class  certificate. 

Rhododendron  Souliei. — This  remarkably  beau- 
tiful and  distinct  species  was  found  in  Western 
China  at  an  altitude  varying  from  !t,CHKJ  feet  to 
1 1,(KXI  feet,  the  flattish,  or  slightly  saucer-shaped, 
flowers  being  of  a  warm  rose-pink  hue  and  borne 
in  close  clustered  heads.  The  exhibited  example 
was  a  flowering  specimen  less  than  1  foot  high, 
the  blue-green  leaves  constituting  quite  a 
distinctive  feature.  Seen  in  woodland  places 
in  the  wild  state  the  plant  is  said  to  reach  3  feet 
or  more  in  height,  while  in  the  more  exposed 
situations  it  is  of  a  decidedly  dwarf  habit  of 
growth.  It  is  a  welcome  addition  to  this  already 
important  genus,  and  doubtless  the  newcomer 
will  be  in  great  request.  Shown  by  Messrs. 
.James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea.  First- 
class  certificate. 

Primula  bulleyana. — A  lovely,  interesting  and 
valuable  addition  to  the  genus  Primula,  which, 
if  not  absolutely  unique  taking  the  genus  as  a 
whole,  is  probably  quite  so  among  purely  hardy 
species.  This  newcomer  is  from  Yunnan,  where 
it  was  found  at  a  great  elevation  by  Mr.  Forrest. 
Our  first  impression  of  this  handsome  species 
was  that  it  was  either  an  artificial  or  natural 
hybrid  between  P.  cookburniana  and  P.  pulveru- 
lenta,  which  would,  of  course,  appear  out  of  the 
question.  The  leaves  are  entire,  about  6  inches 
long  by  1  inch  broad,  and  slightly  crenate  at  the 
margin.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  whorls  on 
the  erect  stems,  the  upper  portion  being  of  a 
mealy  character,  the  entire  infloresoence  con- 
sisting of  five  or  six  whorls  of  the  blossoms. 
In  colour  the  latter  are  of  an  apricot  orange, 
the  tube  and  the  buds  prior  to  expansion  being 
of  a  reddish  tone.  The  plant  is  obviously  a 
free-flowering  one,  and  from  the  colour  point 
of  view  and  its  vigour  and  perennial  character 
promises  to  prove  quite  an  acquisition.  Shown' 
by  Bees,  Limited,  Liverpool.  First  -  class 
certificate. 

Rose  Lyon. — A  very  handsome  variety  that 
should  prove  a  great  favourite,  if  only  for  its 
good  forcing  attributes,  its  fragrance  and  per- 
petual flowering.  At  first  the  buds  are  of  coral 
red  tone  and  the  opening  blossoms  of  a  pink 
shade,  which  presently  merges  into  the  pale  pink 
of  the  Enchantress  Carnation.  The  flowers  are 
full,  globular  and  of  large  size.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  T.  Roohford  and  Sons,  Broxbourne,  and 
Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield.  Award 
of  merit. 

Saxifraga  decipiens  Miss  WillmoU.—A  further 
addition  to  the  mossy  section  of  Saxifrages,  the 
large  and  well-formed  flowers  being  of  a  blush 
pink  shade,  with  somewhat  deeper  colouring  at 
the  base.  It  is  obviously  very  free  in  flowering 
and  very  pleasing  in  eSect.  Shown  by  Bakers, 
Wolverhampton.     Award  of  merit. 

NEW   FRUIT. 

Strawberry  George  Monro. — This  is  the  result 
of  crossing  Royal  Sovereign  with  Sir  Charles 
Napier,  and  is  said  to  be  a  remarkably  heavy 
cropper,  producing  fruits  in  abundance  with  the 
minimum  amount  of  heat,  thus  proving  of  great 
value  for  pot  work.  In  general  appearance 
and  flavour  the  fruits  are  very  similar  to  Royal 
Sovereign  and  the  leaves  are  not  unlike  this 
variety.  Shown  by  H.  Staples,  Esq.,  Swanley, 
Kent.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  18th  inst. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


May  29,  1909.J 


THE     GAEDEN. 


271 


TO 


ANSWERS 
OORRESPONDENTa 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— r^  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  G-ardbn  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistaiice,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  a-nd  with  that  object  will  inake  a  special  feature  of  the 
" Answers  to  Correspondents"  colitmn.  All  communica- 
tions skoidd  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  50,  Tamstock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  bitsiness  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  Tiame  and  address  of  the  send&r  a/re  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  qiiery  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Gpowing  Stocks  and  Asteps  {Joseph 
Potts). — -There  is  little  chance  o£  your  succeeding 
with  these  in  the  open  air.  The  latter  group 
have  no  pretentions  to  hardiness,  and  at  best 
have  to  be  regarded  as  half-hardy  annuals.  You 
might  try  the  Stocks,  sowing  the  seeds  in  August 
or  early  September,  and  by  growing  them  very 
airily  and  cold,  as  in  well- ventilated  frames,  make 
large  plants  for  putting  out  early  or  for  flowering 
in  the  greenhouse  in  April.  Unless  the  plants 
are  well  managed,  however,  and  pinched  to  retard 
the  flowering,  we  fear  that  they  would  be  of  little 
use  to  you.  If  you  have  a  small  greenhouse  just 
excluding  frost,  sow  the  seeds  in  January,  and  by 
growing  the  plants  very  hardily  and  allowing 
plenty  of  pot-room  you  might  succeed.  In  a 
matted-up  frame  the  Asters  would  be  almost 
sure  to  rot  away,  and  as  these  require  to  be 
grown  without  check,  or  without  being  stopped, 
we  cannot  recommend  them  for  your  purpose 
unless  you  have  a  greenhouse  at  you  disposal. 

Plants  for  pond  {W.  Surrey).— ll  yon 
have  planting  room  at  the  margin  at  A  and  B, 
you  might  with  advantage  arrange  such  subjects 
as  Primula  japonica,  Caltha  palustris  flore-pleno, 
the  Royal  Fern  (Osmunda  regalis)  and  its  variety 
cristata,  together  with  Sedges,  Rushes  and  other 
things.  At  C,  should  a  large  plant  be  required, 
you  might  arrange  Gunnera  scabra  or  G.  mani- 
oata,  or  even  the  Goit's  -  beard  Spiraea  (S. 
Aruncus).  Where  the  plants  are  immersed  in  the 
water,  and  the  latter  is  not  too  deep,  you  would 
find  the  double-flowered  Arrow-head  a  good 
plant,  likewise  Alisma  Plantago  or  Butomus 
umbellatus.  Quite  one  of  the  best  things  for 
shallow  water  or  for  marshy  or  wet  ground 
would  be  Iris  Pseud-aoorus  or  Saxifraga  peltata, 
and  there  are  some  Grasses  which  would  be  of 
service  also.  Just  what  you  might  plant  will 
depend  upon  circumstances,  and  none  of  the 
things  we  have  named  is  likely  to  become  a 
nuisance  or  to  overrun  the  place.  It  is  one  of 
those  instances  where  someone  competent  on  the 
spot  is  best  able  to  give  information. 

Peppetual-floweping  Capnations 

(Mrs.  )V.). — As  a  general  rule,  these  Carnations 
are  not  grown  on  for  another  year,  particularly 
when  they  have  become  thin  and  straggling. 
Most  cultivators  prefer  to  keep  up  their  stock  by 
means  of  cuttings  struck  early  in  the  year.  You 
may,  however,  if  you  particularly  wish  to  save 
your  plants,  shorten  back  any  very  long  shoots 
and  repot  the  plants  for  another  year's  growth. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  overpot ;  that  is  to 
saj ,  if  the  plants  are  now  in  5-inoh  pots,  those 
6  inches  in  diameter  will  be  quite  large  enough. 
Another  mode  of  treatment  sometimes  applied 
to  these  Carnations  is  to  plant  them  out  of 
doors  in  a  well-dug  border  for  the  sake  of  the 
flowers  that  may  be  developed  between  the  time 
of  planting  and  the  frosts  of  autumn,  and  a  good 
display  is  frequently  secured  from  many  varieties. 

Violets  diseased  (.A.  J.   IT.).— The   Violets   are 
attacked  by  the  fungus  known  as  Urocyatis  Violse,  one  of 


the  most  destructive  and  disfiguring  to  the  plants.  Your 
plants  are  also  very  anfemic  or  pale-looking,  a  condition 
due,  we  imagine,  to  an  impoverished  condition  of  the  soil, 
or  to  some  local  condition  or  circumstance  of  which  we 
have  no  information.  We  do  not  think  the  position  is  at 
all  to  blame,  though  we  do  not  regard  it  as  an  ideal  one. 
You  might  give  the  ground  a  good  dressing  of  soot  and, 
before  planting  out,  a  free  dressing  of  superphosphate  of 
lime.  For  the  disease  use  sulphide  of  potassium,  half  an 
ounce  to  two  gallons  of  water,  and  syringe  the  plants 
once  every  ten  days  with  the  mixture. 

Eaply  Violets  (P.  Cloakey—We  hardly  realise  what 
you  mean  by  the  "  earliest  single  bloom,"  inasmuch  as 
earliness  is  very  largely  a  question  of  cultivation,  method 
and  general  treatment.  For  example,  by  securing  strong, 
unflowered  runners  in  November,  growing  them  in 
a  cold  frame  all  the  winter  and  planting  out  in  good 
ground  early  in  April,  very  large  plants  are  secured 
that  give  a  much  earlier  flowering  than  those  plants  which 
are  simply  built  up  from  divisions  of  the  old  plants  after 
these  latter  have  finished  their  fiowering.  Of  these  you 
send,  (No.  1)  The  Czar  is  the  earliest,  but,  as  you  know,  it  is 
a  small  flower  when  compared  with  La  France  or  (No.  2) 
Princess  of  Wales.  In  your  district,  by  the  special 
treatment  we  have  described,  we  should  give  a  decided 
preference  to  La  France  or  Princess  of  Wales. 

Tfvin-floiveped  Violet  fop  Inspection 
(H.  S.i — The  Violet  that  you  send  is  an  example  of 
fasciation,  or  the  growing  together  of  two  stems,  and 
although  such  freaks  are  comparatively  common  among 
some  plants,  they  are  not  often  met  with  in  Violets.  Such 
a  specimen  is  worthless. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Information  about  a  shpub  (Ribes). 

The  straggling  yellow-flowered  shrub  you  refer 
to  is  doubtless  Forsythia  suspensa.  It  is  not 
grown  as  a  standard,  but  by  cutting  it  well  back 
each  year  after  flowering  you  can  obtain  strong, 
upright  shoots  4  feet  in  length,  which  blossom 
profusely.  As  you  say,  it  can  be  grown  in  many 
ways.  The  dark-leaved,  yellow-flowered  shrub 
must  be  Berberis  (Mahonia)  Aquifolium ;  it  thrives 
almost  anywhere  and  is  an  e.xcellent  plant  to 
place  beneath  trees.  A  good  rioh-flowered  form 
of  Ribes  sanguineum  is  known  under  the  name 
of  atrorubens ;  another  very  good  variety  is 
splendens,  while  atrosanguineum  is  also  good. 

Shpubs  and  Roses  attacked  by  catep- 
plUaps  (C  H.  Ij.).~\  am  sorry  to  say  I  do  not  recog- 
nise from  your  description  the  caterpillar  which  attacked 
your  shrubs  last  year.  If  the  means  you  employed  were 
thoroughly  carried  out,  you  ought  to  be  tolerably  free 
from  them  this  year.  If  your  shrubs  are  again  infested, 
please  send  up  a  specimen  or  two  and  I  will  give  you  the 
best  advice  I  can  about  their  destruction. — G.  .S.  S. 

Cleaplngr  a  ivood  (A'i'm).— To  clear  your  wood  of 
undergrowth,  all  the  smaller  things  ought  to  be  grubbed 
up  and  burnt  if  not  of  any  value.  The  strongest  of  the 
Elm  suckers  might  be  found  to  be  of  use  for  stakes  if 
trimmed  uo.  At  all  events,  all  the  suckers  ought  to  be 
trimmed  off  the  old  stumps:  holes  1^  inches  or  2  inches 
in  diameter  should  be  bored  into  the  middle  of  the  stumps 
and  filled  with  common  salt.  You  might  also  have  a  few 
of  the  main  roots  bared,  bore  holes  in  them  and  fill 
them  with  salt.  This  ought  to  kill  the  stumps.  Weed- 
killer is  a  very  dangerous  thing  to  use  for  the  purpose, 
and  you  would  probably  kill  more  trees  than  you  intended 
to. 

Tpeatment  of  Pypus  japonica  (Moor  Hen).— 
When  this  Pyrus  needs  pruning  it  should  be  pruned  on 
the  spur  system— that  Is  to  say,  you  should  encourage  the 
formation  of  short  growths  on  the  main  branches,  for  it  is 
upon  these  that  the  flowers  are  principally  produced,  as 
you  have  already  observed.  You  may  wait  a  very  long 
time  before  the  stout  shoots  bear  blossoms,  and  your  moat 
satisfactory  plan  will  be  to  cut  them  away  at  once.  If 
these  long,  vigorous  shoots  that  you  speak  of  form  as  it 
were  a  breastwork  to  the  plant,  we  advise  you  to  cut 
them  oil  quite  close.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  they  are 
scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  plant,  they  may  be  cut 
back  to  within  two  or  three  eyes.  You  speak  of  the 
plant  having  no  new  wood  if  you  cut  off  the  vigorous 
shoots  :  but  such  removal  would  naturally  throw  more 
energy  into  the  main  branches  and  cause  them  to  push 
out  short-jointed  shoots  of  medium  vigour,  which  natu- 
rally form  flower-spurs,  especially  if  their  points  are 
pinched  out  during  the  summer. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Tonic's  manure  fop  Roses  (E.  B.).— 

This  manure  is  compounded  as  follows  :  Super- 
phosphate of  lime,  twelve  parts ;  nitrate  of 
potash,  ten  parts  ;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  two 
parts  ;  sulphate  of  iron,  one  part ;  and  sulphate 
of  lime,  eight  parts.  Apply  it  in  February 
at  the  rate  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  the 
square  yard  of  surface.  When  heavy  rainfall 
follows,  a  second  dressing   may  be   given  with 


advantage  at  the  end  of  May,  but  this  should  be 
rather  less  in  quantity.  The  manure  should  be 
hoed  in,  and,  if  possible,  applied  just  before  rain. 
This  preparation  is  given  in  addition  to  the 
usual  dressing  of  farmyard  manure.  This  latter 
is  essential  to  maintain  the  soil  in  a  healthy 
condition,  although  it  is  not  necessary  to  apply 
it  every  year. 

Reappangrins  Rose  beds  (S.  S.).—W  e  think  youi 
are  well  advised  in  replanting  your  Roses,  especially  as 
they  did  not  grow  very  well  last  season.  When  removing 
the  soil,  take  it  out  to  a  depth  of  2  feet  and  fork  up  the- 
bottom.  Put  on  this  forked-up  soil  3  inches  or  3  inches- 
of  cow-manure,  then  some  of  the  soil  removed,  following 
with  another  layer  of  cow-manure.  The  remaining  soil 
should  have  some  half-inch  bones  admixed  with  it,  and  it 
would  be  as  well  to  add  some  fresh  soil  from  another  part- 
of  the  garden,  especially  where  vegetables  have  been 
grown.  The  whole  should  oe  made  firm  before  replanting. 
When  the  plants  are  removed  for  replanting,  trim  over  the 
roots,  cutting  away  very  long  portions,  also  any  jagged 
ends.  Then  dip  the  roots  in  some  "  puddle"  or  mud.  Cut- 
back growths  before  planting  to  about  6  inches  of  their 
base,  and  see  that  the  roots  are  made  firm  when  replanting. 
Afterwards  go  over  the  plants  in  about  a  fortnight  and 
tread  up  the  soil  against  them,  choosing  a  dry  day  for  tfais- 
operation.  We  have  pleasure  in  naming  the  order  in 
which  the  Roses  should  be  placed  to  conform  with  your 
idea  as  to  colour,  which  we  think  will  harmonise 
very  well.  Some  of  the  strongest  Teas  we  have  kept  ia 
Bed  A.  Perhaps  you  could  shield  this  bed  from  the  cold 
gales  by  a  belt  of  Penzance  Briars  or  a  few  evergreen, 
shrubs,  or  a  trellia  of  wichuraiana  Roaes  acts  very 
effectively  as  a  wind-break.  We  cannot  make  out  the 
variety  you  are  unable  to  decipher  unless  it  be  Mme. 
Thirion  Montauban.  The  variety  Dr.  Rouges  is  more  fitted 
for  arch  or  wall,  so  also  is  Duarte  d'Oliveira.  This  is  the 
correct  way  of  writing  this  name,  not  Morte  d'Oliveira. 
We  have  added  a  few  names  to  each  colour  which  we  think 
you  ahould  possess,  and  hare  marked  them  with  an 
asterisk.  For  Bed  A  to  B :  Deep  red,  Duke  of  Albany,. 
Eugene  Fiirst,  'Commandant  Felix  Faure,  *Charle8- 
Lefebvre,  *llme.  V.  Verdier  and  *Fisher  Holmes  ;  pink, 
Mme.  E.  Resal,  Mme.  L.  Messimy,  Caroline  Testout  and 
^Gustave  Griinerwald  ;  white,  Kronprinzeasin  Victoria, 
Souvenir  de  la  Malmaiaon,  ^Gloire  Lyonnaise,  ^Antoine 
Rivoire  and  'Admiral  Dewey ;  pink,  Captain  Christy, 
Homer,  La  France,  Viscountess  Folkestone,  »SIme.  Abel 
Cbatenay,  *JIme.  Leon  Pain  and  'Mme.  Edm^e  lletz  ; 
red.  Marquise  de  Salisbury,  G.  Piganeau,  Ben  Cant,, 
General  .Jacqueminot,  ^Ulrich  Brunner,  'Hugh  Dickson,. 
'Dr.  Andry  and  Earl  of  Pembroke.  Bed  C  to  D:  Yellow, 
Dr.  Grill,  Princess  of  Wales,  Jean  Pernet,  Le  Progres 
and  *Mme.  Hoste ;  orange,  Aurore,  Mme.  Ravary,  'Perle- 
des  Jaunes,  *Mme.  Charles,  'Paul  LediS  and  *Lady  Roberts ; 
red,  Princesse  de  Sagan,  Pierre  Guillot,  Papa  Gontier, 
Beaute  Inconstante,  Souvenir  de  R.  Rambeaux,  Lady 
Battersea,  ^Richmond  and  'General  MacArthur ;  pink, 
Maman  Cochet,  Mrs.  B.  R.  Cant,  Mme.  Lambard,  Belle 
Siebrecht,  Mme.  .lules  Grolez,  Mme.  de  Watteville,  Dean 
Hole  and  'Earl  of  Warwick ;  orange,  *Mme.  Falcot,. 
'Prince  T.  Galitzine,  'Lena  and  Instituteur  Sirdey ;, 
yellow,  Comtesse  de  Frigneuse,  Gustave  Regis,  'Harry 
Kirk,  'Sulphurea  and  'llarie  van  Houtte ;  white,  Hon_ 
Edith  Gilford,  Pharisaer,  Mrs.  M.  Kennedy,  'Mnje. 
Antoine  Mari,  "Peace  and  Prince  de  Bulgarie. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 
Apum  Lilies  in  g^peenliouse  {Mrs. 

B.). — If  the  greenhouse  is  only  "  supposed  "  to- 
keep  out  the  frost  and  does  not  actually  do  so, 
the  probabilities  are  that  the  frost  got  in  and  is, 
therefore,  responsible  for  the  mischief.  This  is- 
the  more  obvious  when  viewed  in  conjunction 
with  those  you  kept  in  a  dwelling-room.  The- 
Arum  Lily,  while  enduring  low  temperatures 
with  comparative  impunity,  cannot  endure  frost,, 
and  the  "rotted  roots"  emphasise  the  fact. 
Saucers  of  water  for  such  things  are  quite  right- 
for  the  plants  when  in  free  growth,  but  are  quite 
unnecessary  and  often  harmful  when  constantly 
employed  before  that  stage  is  reached. 

Tpeatment  of  a   Camellia  {E.  L. 

Rielhy).  — If  your  Camellia  appears  to  be  in  fairly 
good  health  in  June,  you  may  place  it  outside  in 
a  position  where  it  will  get  a  little  shade  for  two- 
or  three  hours  about  midday.  If,  however,  you 
have  any  doubts  at  all  about  its  health,  leave  it 
inside.  While  it  is  indoors  you  will  have  more- 
control  over  the  watering  and  you  can  keep  it 
syringed  more  conveniently,  which  will  be  an- 
advantage.  Should  you  place  it  out  of  doors, 
stand  the  pot  on  a  piece  of  stone  or  slate,  so  that- 
worms  cannot  enter  by  means  of  the  hole  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pot.  Really  healthy  plants  with 
good  roots  are  benefited  by  having  two  or  three 
months  out  of  doors.  Plawts  left  indoors  ought 
to  be  given  all  the  ventilation  possible,  and  both 


272 


THE     GARDEN. 


[May  29,  1909. 


top  and  bottom  ventilators  ought  to  be  left 
open  night  and  day  during  summer  and  early 
autumn.  A  fortnightly  application  of  soot-water 
helps  to  keep  the  soil  free  from  worms. 

Woodlice     in    a    grreenhouse 

{M.  H.). — Woodlice  seek  shelter  during  the  day 
in  any  crevice  or  spot  where  they  can  hide 
themselves.  Where  it  can  be  done  without 
injury  to  the  plants,  boiling  water  should  be 
poured  into  any  place  where  they  are  likely  to 
congregate.  They  may  also  bo  readily  trapped 
by  cutting  Potatoes  in  two  and  scooping  out 
some  of  the  centre.  Then  lay  these  Potatoes 
with  the  hollow  side  downwards,  and  when 
-examined  next  morning  the  woodlice  will  be 
found  sheltering  there,  when  they  can  be  readily 
destroyed  by  dropping  them  into  a  bowl  of 
boiling  water.  If  these  hollowed  out  Potatoes 
are  laid  on  a  hard  surface,  a  notch  or  two  must 
be  cut  in  them  in  order  to  allow  the  woodlice  to 
enter,  otherwise  they  will  be  unable  to  do  so. 
Another  good  means  of  trapping  these  pests  is  to 
take  some  small  clean  pots,  then  place  in  each  a 
freshly  cut  piece  of  Potato  and  611  up  with  a 
little  dry  moss  or  hay.  These  pots  niust  be  laid 
on  their  sides  in  the  most  likely  places  and 
examined  the  first  thing  in  the  morning,  when 
the  pests  found  therein  may  be  destroyed. 

Infopmatlon    about    Palms 

(R.  G.  T".).— The  dififerent  Palms  referred  to  in 
your  letter  are  all  natives  of  tropical  districts, 
hence  you  cannot  hope  for  any  measure  of 
success  in  attempting  to  raise  and  grow  them  in 
a  greenhouse  temperature.  They  need  at  least  a 
structure  in  which  a  night  temperature  of  fiO"  to 
6.5°  is  maintained,  and  if  the  pots  or  pans  in 
which  they  are  sown  can  be  plunged  in  a  gentle 
bottom-heat,  so  much  the  better.  A  night 
temperature  as  above  given  would  mean,  of 
course,  a  rise  of  10°  to  20°  during  the  day.  In 
sowing  seeds  of  Palms  it  will  be  found  that 
germination  is  assisted  if  they  are  soaked  for 
twenty-four  hours  previously  in  water  at  a 
temperature  of  80°  to  90°,  but  not  higher. 
Whether  pots  or  pans  are  used,  they  must  be 
thoroughly,  but  not  excessively,  drained,  and  a 
suitable  compost  for  Palms  in  general  may  be 
formed  of  loam,  lightened  by  an  admixture  of 
leaf-mould,  peat  and  sand.  This  compost  must 
be  pressed  down  moderately  firm,  leaving  suffi- 
cient space  to  sow  the  seeds.  A  good  guide  for 
the  depth  at  which  they  are  to  be  sown  is  that 
the  seeds  are  covered  with  soil  equal  to  their  own 
■depth.  After  sowing,  enough  water  should  be 
given  to  keep  the  soil  fairly  moist,  but  the 
saturation  stage  must  be  avoided.  When  the 
young  plants  make  their  appearance,  a  good  time 
to  pot  them  ofT  singly  into  small  pots  is  as  soon 
as  the  first  leaf  is  developed,  as  if  done  at  that 
time  the  roots  start  away  into  the  new  soil  and 
do  not  feel  the  check  of  removal,  whereas  if  left 
longer  they  are  apt  to  experience  a  decided 
cheek,  particularly  those  that  form  very  stout 
roots,  as  some  of  them  do.  For  their  after- 
treatment  these  Palms  need  a  warm,  moist 
structure  and  shade  from  the  direct  rays  of  the 
sun. 

Name  and  tpeatment  of  Opchld  (Mrs. 
E,  J.  7*.).— The  name  of  the  Orchid  is  C«;logyDe  cristata. 
Vou  will  fluil  directions  far  its  culture  in  the  prize  essay 
on  "The  Si.x  Most  Popular  Orchids  and  How  to  Grow 
Them,"  which  was  published  in  THE  Garden  for  April  17. 

Hlppeastpums       not       floweplng:      vrell 

(G.  11.  (y.).— Vou  have  omitted  twn  very  important  items 
in  your  question,  l-'irst,  you  give  us  no  idea  as  to  the 
age  of  your  llippeastrums,  or  whether  they  have  ever 
alowereil  before  ;  next,  nothing  is  said  as  to  the  size  of  the 
bulbs  themselves  or  the  pots  they  are  in.  The  treatment 
seems  ([uite  correct,  except  that  many  cultivators  do  not 
DOW  repot  annually,  and  when  it  is  done  the  operation  is 
carried  out  directly  after  flowering.  With  increased  age, 
size  and  vigour  your  Hippeastrums  should  all,  or  nearly 
all,  flower  another  year.  In  any  further  questions  please 
write  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only. 

Plants  fop  a  grpeenhouse  (.Mrs.  J.  i?.).— We 
assume  that  you  need  your  greenhouse  to  be  as  gay  as 
possible  throughout  the  year,  and  consequently  you 
require  a  selection  of  flowering  plants.  For  clothing  the 
wall  at  the  back  there  is  nothing  to  equal  Camellias,  as 
Uie  foliage  ts  so   handsome  throughout  the  year,  and 


during  the  flowering  season  they  are,  of  course,  addition- 
ally attractive.  The  one  drawback  is  that  they  are  of 
rather  slow  growth,  and  consequently  take  some  time  to 
effectually  cover  a  wall.  It  this  is  an  objection,  a  white 
Abutilon  (Boule  de  Neige),  a  yellow  one  (Golden  Fleece),  a 
red  Habrotharanus  (fasciculatus  or  Newellii)  and  the 
yellow-flowered  H.  aurantiacus  would  quickly  cover  the 
wall  and  flower  freely.  For  the  roof  you  have  the  choice 
of  the  white  and  red  Lapageria,  Passiflora  Imperatrice 
Eugenie,  Tacsonia  Van  Volxeniii,  Lantana  8alva?folia, 
Hibbertia  dentata.  Clematis  indivisa  and  any  of  the  loose- 
growing,  medium-flowered  Fuchsias.  It  will  be  an  easy 
matter  to  keep  such  a  structure  gay  during  the  summer, 
for  plants  suitable  for  this  purpose  will  soon  be  purchas- 
able at  a  cheap  rate.  Of  the  long  list  of  plants  available 
for  such  a  structure,  mention  may  be  especially  made  of 
the  numerous  forms  of  Pelargoniums,  Fuchsias,  Cannas, 
tuberous  -  rooted  Begonias,  Achimenes,  Campanulas, 
Gloxinias,  Lantanas,  Lilies  and  other  subjects.  These 
will  keep  on  until  the  autumn,  when  Chrysanthemums, 
Salvia  aplendens  and  the  blue-flowered  S.  azurea  grandi- 
flora  will  serve  to  keep  the  structure  gay.  For  the  winter 
and  early  spring  display  we  cannot  do  better  than  refer 
you  to  The  Garden-  for  December  19,  19(is,  in  which  is 
printed  the  first-prize  essay  on  '*  Flowers  for  a  Small 
Greenhouse  in  Winter."  The  subject  is  there  dealt  with 
far  more  exhaustively  than  it  would  be  possible  for  us  to 
do  in  the  space  devoted  to  ''Answers  to  Correspondents." 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

Manchupian  Oil  Beans  (Robert 
Bundl). — It  is  quite  probable  that  the  Beans  you 
refer  to  are  the  seeds  of  Glycine  hispida,  though 
it  is  not  possible  to  be  certain  without  seeing  and 
comparing  them  with  typical  Beans.  They  are 
also  known  as  Soy  Beans  and  are,  at  the  present 
time,  a  considerable  article  of  commerce.  Gly- 
cine hispida  is  an  annual  which  is  grown  largely 
in  China,  Japan  and  India.  It  may  be  grown  in 
English  gardens  under  similiar  conditions  to 
culinary  Beans  or  Peas,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether 
it  will  find  favour  as  a  vegetable.  Its  chief  uses 
are  as  a  cattle  food  and  as  a  basis  for  sauces, 
though,  doubtless,  in  times  of  scarcity  it  would 
form  a  valuable  food  product.  (i>uoting  from  the 
Kew  Museum  Guide  in  reference  to  this  plant:  ' '  In 
China  and  Japan,  a  kind  of  cheese  or  curd  cake 
is  prepared  know  as  '  Natto. "  The  chief  products 
of  Manchuria  are  Bean  oil  and  Bean  cake.  The 
seeds  yield  17  per  cent,  of  an  edible  oil  obtained 
by  expression,  and  the  residue  is  made  into  large 
circular  cakes,  weighing  about  601b. ,  used  in  the 
East  for  feeding  cattle  and  also  as  a  manure. 
Soy  is  imported  into  Europe  in  barrels  and  is 
said  to  form  the  basis  of  most  of  the  popular 
sauces." 

Measurement  and  heating:  of  a 
Mushroom  house  (A.  i.).— We  think 
that  a  house  15  feet  long  by  10|  feet  wide 
(inside  measure),  9  feet  high  at  back  and  8  feet 
high  in  front,  would  be  likely  to  meet  your 
requirements.  The  bottom  part  under  the  first 
tier  of  beds  could  be  used  for  forcing  Rhubarb 
and  Seakale,  leaving  room  then  for  two  tiers  of 
beds  round  both  sides  and  two  ends,  excepting 
where  the  door  is  fixed,  which  should  be  in  the 
middle  and  made  wide  enough  so  that  a  barrow- 
Icad  of  soil  or  manure  can  be  tipped  inside  the 
house  if  necessary.  The  beds  should  be  3 J  feet 
wide  and  11  inches  deep,  and  there  should  be 
18  inches  clear  space  between  the  top  of  the  bed 
when  formed  and  the  bottom  of  the  next.  In 
forming  the  bottom  tier  of  beds,  bear  in  mind  to 
leave  a  fair  space  for  the  Rhubarb  and  Seakale  to 
grow.  The  fittings  for  supporting  the  beds 
should  be  made  of  oast-iron,  and  you  would  be 
well  advised  to  place  this  part  of  the  work  in 
the  hands  of  a  horticultural  builder  or  someone 
who  knows  how  the  work  should  be  done.  We 
prefer  that  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  beds 
should  be  formed  of  boards.  Mushrooms  do  not 
like  much  fire-heat.  Two  4-inch  hot-water  pipes 
starting  at  the  corner  next  the  boiler  and  running 
round  the  house  until  they  came  to  the  doorway, 
where  they  could  be  dropped  into  the  return 
pipe,  would  be  quite  enough.  The  pipes  should 
be  fixed  by  the  side  of  the  lower  tier  of  beds  on 
the  path-side  and  supported  by  iron  brackets 
from  the  pillars  supporting  the  beds.  A  sky- 
light must  be  provided  in  the  roof  to  open  when 
wanted.  The  walls  should  be  built  thickly, 
13J  inches  if  possible,  and  the  roof  covered  with 


Heather  or  straw  thatch  in  order  not  only  to 
keep  the  house  warm  in  winter,  but  also  cool  in 
summer. 

Young  Tomato  plants  dying  off 

(Q.  T.  £.)— Judging  by  your  description,  we 
conclude  that  your  young  seedling  Tomato  plants 
are  suffering  from  an  attack  of  the  Tomato  or 
Potato  disease.  There  can  have  been  nothing 
wrong,  we  think,  with  the  seed  ;  certainly  there 
is  nothing  wrong  in  the  soil  in  which  the  plants 
are  potted.  It  is  seldom  the  disease  attacks 
plants  in  so  young  a  state.  The  only  occasion 
we  can  call  to  mind  where  this  has  been  the  case 
is  when  the  young  plants  had  been  packed  too 
close  together,  where  little  or  no  air  could  circu- 
late among  them,  the  temperature  also  in  which 
they  grew  being  too  cold  and  damp.  The  best 
thing  you  can  do  is  to  cut  the  stems  of  the  plants 
below  where  they  are  aifected.  If  the  stem 
below  the  cut  is  unaffected,  another  growth  will 
soon  start  from  the  base  of  the  plant.  But  if 
you  find  after  cutting  that  the  stem  is  diseased 
below  the  cut,  the  best  thing  to  do  is  to 
immediately  burn  the  plant,  and  either  sow 
more  seed  or  procure  a  healthy  stock  from  some 
other  source.  The  healthy  plants  left  should 
be  placed  on  the  shelf  of  a  greenhouse,  or  some 
other  structure  where  there  is  a  little  warmth 
and  plenty  of  air.  With  careful  attention  to 
watering  and  to  potting,  if  they  want  it,  they 
will  soon  come  round  and  make  good  plants 
again. 

Tomato  leaves  fop  Inspection  (/•'.  J.  C.).— 
There  U  no  fungus  present,  and  the  few  green  flies  are 
not  accountable  for  the  variegation,  which  appears  to  be 
constitutioual  and  through  which  none  of  the  deeper- 
lying  tissues  is  affected.  The  plants  may  be  watered 
now  and  then  with  a  weak  solution  of  potash  sulphate, 
and  this  may  help  them. 

Gpotvlng'  Beans  in  pots  (Mi«s  A.  K.  if.;,— The 
pots  for  the  French  Beans  must  be  three-parts  filled  with 
compost  and  the  seeds  buried  nearly  2  inches  deep. 
When  the  resultant  plants  are  about  7  inches  high,  more 
compost  must  be  put  in  so  as  to  fill  the  pots  to  within 
1  inch  from  the  top.  This  will  act  as  a  mulch  and  greatly 
assist  the  plants.  Strongly  sprouted  Potato  "  sets  "  must 
be  used  ;  then  the  growth  will  be  early. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Black  Cuppants  (ir.  J.  /*.)■— The  white  appear- 
ance oil  the  buds  of  the  Black  Currant  is  not  due  to  the 
presence  of  any  parasite,  either  insect  or  fungus,  but  that 
of  numerous  hairs,  which  have  become  filled  with  air  and 
are,  no  doubt,  characteristic  of  the  variety. 

Can  Scaplet  Runnepsand  Fpench  Beans 
compete  as  two  distinct  exhibits  in  a 
collection  of  vegetables?  {C.  L.  N.).  —  We 
believe  the  two  to  be  distinct  in  the  same  way  that  Cos 
and  Cabbage  Lettuce  or  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  are 
distinct,  and  consider  that  both  may  be  shown  as  distinct 
dishes  in  a  collection.  There  is  n«  authoritative  rule 
bearing  on  the  subject,  and  some  judges  might  decide 
differently ;  therefore  you  will  be  well  advised  not  to 
include  the  two  in  any  collection  if  it  can  be  avoided. 
The  probabilities  are  that  reduced  points  would  be  given 
to  each  dish  as  being  too  much  alike,  making  the  total  of 
points  about  the  same  as  one  good  dish  of  either  would 
receive ;  better  substitute  something  else,  even  if  less 
choice.  In  classes  for  single  dishes  there  is  generally  one 
for  Scarlet  Runners  and  one  for  French  Beans,  contlrmiag  ' 
our  contention  that  the  two  are  distinct. 

Names  of  plants.— 3^.  C.  Havard.—B.oy&  carnosa. 
Cut  out  dead  wood  only. D.  J/^.— Sanguinaria  cana- 
densis.  L.    B.    Wittier.— I,  Saxifraga  muacoides  Rhei ; 

2,  S.  csBspitosa  hirba  ;  3,  S.  muscoides  variety  ;  4,  S.  Geum 
dentata;  6,8.  Wallacei ;  0,  S.  hypnoides  variety;  8,  S. 
Geum  elegans  ;  9,  S.  G.  crenata ;  11,  S.  cuneifolia  aubin- 
tegra ;  12,  S.  muscoides  atropurpurea ;  13  and  10,  forms  of 

S.  hirsuta. F.   W.  C— Staphylea  pinnata. Gislyurn. 

— 1,  Cotoneaater   horizontalis  ;    2,  Jasminum  officinale  ; 

3,  Aiuelanchier    canadensis ;    4,    Cornus  alba    Spiethii  ; 

5  and  6,  Pernettya  mucronata. G.  J.  Ips.—l,  Ruscus 

aculeatus  ;  2,  Salix  Caprea. P.  G.  D.  5.— Chelidonium 

majus  (Celandine). T.   Cleghoni.—TwMp  elegans  alba. 

W.    H.    Stabler.— Rose    Liberty. L.     Taiilor.— The 

yellow  flower  is  Kerria  japonica  flore-pleno.    Tiie  other  is 

too  shrivelled  to   identify. B.   T.  G.— Helianthemum 

vulgare  variety ;   Eranthemum  Portellae. D.  Vawdrey. 

— 1,  Epimedium  pinnatum ;  2,  Staphylea  colchica;  3, 
iScilla  campanulata  (one  of  the  many  forms).— iJ.  N., 
North  i>f(v<n.— Begonia  semperflorens  ;  Fuchsia  bacillaris. 

E.    Bryant.— \,   Ribes  aureum ;    2,  Lonicera  involu- 

crata. jDnncom.— Pink  Cherry  is  Prunua  H.  J.  Veitch. 

The  other  is  too  far  gone  to  name  accurately. W.  M. 

— 3cilla    hispanica    (8.     campanulata). S.     T.— 1,    no 

specimen  ;  2,  J'ritillaria  Meleagris  (the  Suake'a-head) ;  3, 

Yucca  fllamentosa;   4,  Carex  acuta. F.  E.  Stokes.— \, 

Gentiana  acaulis  ;  2,  Panax  fruiticosum  var.  Victorlaj ; 
3,  Codireum  variegatum  Vou  Oerstedi ;  4,  C,  Wies- 
mannii    5,  Peperomia  argyreia  ;  C,  Pteris  longifoUa. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  May  S9, 1909. 


THE    TEMPLE    SHOW. 


THE  exhibition  held  in  the  Temple 
Gardens  this  year  was  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  we  have  ever  seen,  but 
unfortunately  lacking  in  extra  good 
novelties,  excepting  for  a  few  beauti- 
ful Roses,  which  we  shall  mention  next  week. 
The  first  day  the  show  was  drenched  with  rain, 
which  was  welcomed  by  farmers  and  gardeners, 
but  not  by  those  who  wished  to  see  the  exhibition 
under  the  best  conditions.  All  praise  must  be 
given  to  those  who  have  helped  in  making  this 
show  such  a  success,  especially  the  Council,  Mr. 
S.  T.  Wright,  Mr.  Frank  Reader  and,  of  course, 
above  all,  to  the  president.  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence, 
and  the  Rev.  W.  Wilks. 


ROSES. 

Messrs.  Cutbush  arranged,  in  conjunction  with 
Carnations,  a  beautiful  group  of  Roses.  Large 
and  attractive  specimens  flanked  the  back  of 
the  tent,  and  other  dwarf  forms  made  a  charm- 
ing carpeting.  Notable  among  other  free- 
flowering  Roses  were  Hiawatha,  Lady  Gay, 
Mrs.  F.  W.  Flight,  White  Dorothy  and  Crimson 
Rambler  ;  altogether  a  beautiful  array. 

Roses  from  Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Son, 
Waltham  Cross,  were  beautifully  shown  in  a 
charmingly  disposed  group.  Ramblers  in 
variety  formed  an  excellent  background,  and  the 
foreground  was  well  set  out  with  specimen  Roses 
in  variety.  The  plants  were  freely  flowered  and 
the  blooms  were  large  and  full.  A  new  rambler 
from  this  firm  is  Fairy,  a  charming  white  single 
Rose. 

Slough  was  well  represented  by  the  fine 
exhibit  from  Mr.  Charles  Turner,  who  has 
shown  without  intermission  for  years.  Standard 
specimens  of  Mme.  Norbert  LeAavasseur  were 
distinctly  charming  and  freely  flowered. 
Hiawatha  and  Lady  Gay  were  also  shown.  Of 
the  exhibition  Roses,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux, 
White  Maman  Coehet,  Souvenir  de  Pierre 
J^'otting  and  J.  B.  Clark  were  shown.  This 
was  a  most  interesting  exhibit. 

Mr.  George  Prince,  Oxford,  staged  a  group  ot 
Roses  in  the  large  tent,  and  included  in  the  dis- 
play were  many  beautiful  specimen  ramblers. 
Hiawatha  was  in  good  condition,  and  Lady  Gay, 
Dorothy  Perkins,  Blush  Rambler,  Minnehaha, 
Delight  and  many  others  were  all  charm- 
ingly represented. 

Rambler  Roses  were  wonderfully  well  shown 
by  Messrs.  H.  Cannell  and  Sons,  Swanley,  Kent. 
A  most  notable  feature  in  this  glorious  display 
was  the  new  American  Pillar  Rose.  The  large 
and  attractive  rich  rose  pink  blooms  are  pro- 
duced in  immense  clusters,  the  white  centre  of 
the  blooms  adding  to  their  attractiveness. 

Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  The  Old  Nurseries, 
Cheshunt,  occupied  their  usual  space  in  one 
corner  of  the  large  tent  with  a  very  beautiful 
and  striking  group  of  Roses  in  many  types. 
Rambler  Roses  were  finely  shown,  weeping 
standards  standing  out  conspicuously.  Hiawatha, 
Dorothy  Perkins,  White  Dorothy,  Lady  Godiva 
and  the  new  Rambler  Buttercup  were  all  charm- 
ingly displayed. 

A  new  Polyantha  Rose  named  Jessie  was 
exhibited  by  Messrs.  H.  Merryweather  and  Sons, 
Limited,  Southwell,  Notts.  This  is  a  glowing 
crimson,  dwarf  little  plant,  freely  flowered  and 
attractive,  and  should  be  in  much  demand. 

Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  Belfast  and 
Dublin,  had  a  pretty  table  group  of  their  new 
Roses,  and  several  weie  of  very  considerable 
promise.      Lady    Ursula,    W^alter    Speed,   May 


Kenyon  Slaney,  W.  E,  Lippiatt,  Florence  Edith 
Coulthwaite,  Mrs.  David  Jardine,  Margaret 
Molyneux  and  others  were  distinctly  pretty. 

A  large  and  interesting  group  of  Roses  was 
exhibited  on  one  of  the  centre  tables,  and 
embraced  rambler  and  other  forms  of  this 
subject,  as  well  as  seven  large  boxes  of  superb 
exhibition  Roses.  This  striking  exhibit  came 
from  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant,  Colchester,  and  was 
much  admired. 

A  most  attractive  group  of  several  types  of  the 
better  Roses  came  from  Mr.  Frank  Cant, 
Colcliester.  Delight  and  Hiawatha,  Dorothy 
Perkins  (a  beautiful  weeping  form),  Minnehaha 
and  Tausendschun  were  really  charming.  The 
yellow  Persian  Briar  was  distinctly  pretty,  as 
was  also  the  Austrian  Briar. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  exhibits  of  Roses  in 
the  show  was  that  put  up  by  Mr.  George  Mount 
of  Canterbury.  His  efiective  method  of  staging 
huge  mounds  of  one  variety  is  very  commendable. 
Any  of  the  flowers  were  good  enough  for 
the  exhibition  stand.  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Frau 
Karl  Druschki,  Richmond,  Joseph  Lowe  and 
Ulrich  Brunner  were  excellent. 

Messrs.  Hobbies,  Limited,  Dereham,  grouped 
Roses  in  very  charming  fashion,  standard 
Ramblers  and  Ramblers  in  natural  form,  besides 
numerous  other  types  of  Roses,  being  set  up  in 
a  very  pretty  group.  Hiawatha,  Paradise,  the 
new  Coijuina,  White  Dorothy  and  others  were 
grouped  artistically,  and  were  the  admiration 
of  crowds  of  visitors. 


CARNATIONS. 

Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Sons,  Highgate  and 
Barnet,  made  a  most  attractive  display  of  Carna- 
tions in  their  large  group  at  one  corner  of  the 
big  tent.  Mounds  of  neatly  disposed  plants 
were  contrasted  in  pleasing  fashion,  and  included 
such  sorts  as  King  Arthur,  Lady  Coventry,  the 
new  pink  Malmaison  Marmion,  Mereia,  Lord 
Rosebery  and  Robert  Craig. 

A  grand  bank  of  well-grown  flowers  was  staged 
by  Mr.  C.  Engelmann,  Saflfron  Walden.  This 
exhibit  was  most  artistically  disposed,  fronds  of 
Asparagus  being  charmingly  interwoven,  giving 
a  very  delightful  effect. 

One  of  the  best  groups  of  Carnations  came 
from  Mr.  W.  H.  Page,  Tangley  Nurseries, 
Hampton.  Large  vases  of  handsome  flowers 
were  beautifully  arranged  and  the  flowers  were 
superb.  Winsor,  Beacon,  White  Lawson, 
Enchantress,  Britannia  and  Governor  Roosevelt 
were  all  remarkable  for  their  good  colour. 

Mr.  Hay  ward  Mathias  staged  an  interesting 
series  of  flowers  of  good  quality.  Britannia, 
Gwladys,  Rose  Enchantress,  Cecilia,  Harlo- 
warden  and  Lord  Welby  were  some  of  the  best 
in  a  charming  selection. 

Superbly  fine  was  the  exhibit  from  Mr.  H. 
Burnett,  Guernsey.  The  flowers  were  of  the 
highest  quality,  colour,  size  and  form  being  all 
that  could  be  desired. 

Messrs.  Bell  and  Sheldon,  Guernsey,  made  a 
very  handsome  exhibit  of  Carnations.  The 
flowers  were  richly  coloured,  of  large  size,  and 
were  tastefully  displayed. 

A  pretty  little  exhibit  of  Carnations  came 
from  Messrs.  Thomas  S.  Ware  ('02),  set  up  in 
pleasing  fashion  in  Bamboo  stands  and  stately 
vases  and  fronted  with  foliage  plants.  Fair 
Maid,  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson  and  Britannia  were 
good  sorts. 

Mr.  S.  Mortimer,  Rowledge,  Farnham,  Surrey, 
set  up  a  pretty  group  of  Carnations,  arranged 
in  pleasing  fashion  in  stately  clear  glasses. 
Britannia,  Winsor,  Robert  Craig,  Enchantress 
and  Lady  Bountiful  were  all  good. 


Mr.  C.  F.  Waters,  Baleombe,  Sussex,  again 
excelled  with  his  Carnations.  Mrs.  H.  Burnett, 
Harry  Fenn,  Princess  of  Wales,  Marmion, 
Victory,  Winsor,  Fair  Maid  and  others  were  well 
shown. 

A  dainty  group  of  Carnations  was  exhibited  by 
His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  Winsor, 
Beacon,  Robert  Craig,  Britannia  and  Enchantress 
being  the  more  noteworthy  specimens.  The 
plants  were  well  grown,  and  looked  very  pretty 
set  in  a  groundwork  of  some  of  the  better 
Nephrolepis. 

A  pretty  exhibit  of  these  flowers  came  from 
Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath  and  Co.,  Wisbech.  The 
flowers  were  set  up  in  vases  and  were 
arranged  effectively.  Good  examples  of  Beacon. 
Winsor,  Fair  Maid,  White  Lawson,  Aristocrat, 
Tokio,  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson  and  Robert  Craig 
were  most  conspicuous. 

Very  handsome  indeed  was  the  group  of 
Carnations  set  up  by  the  American  Nursery, 
Sawbridgeworth.  Herts.  Vases  and  Bamboo 
stands  were  used  to  display  the  well-grown 
flowers. 

Mr.  James  Green,  March,  showed  well.  He 
used  Bamboo  stands  for  his  flowers  most 
etlectively.  Enchantress,  Mrs.  Burnett,  Winsor 
and  ^'ariegated  Lawson  were  attractive. 

A  superb  little  group  of  the  better  Carnations 
was  set  up  by  Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co. ,  Enfield. 
Hanging  baskets,  unique  vases,  stately  and 
otherwise,  displayed  beautiful  flowers  most  artis- 
tically. Princess  of  Wales,  Winsor,  King  Arthur, 
Black  Chief,  Britannia  and  Afterglow  were 
among  the  more  noteworthy. 

Progress,  the  new  perpetual-flowering  Carna- 
tion; was  shown  by  Mr.  C.  H.  Herbert,  Birming- 
ham. This  is  delioiously  fragrant,  and  is  won- 
drously  free-flowering.  The  colour  is  rosy  mauve. 

A  large  exhibit  of  the  new  Carnation  Rose 
Doru  was  attractive.  The  colour  is  a  spark- 
ling rose,  and  it  appears  to  be  a  good 
doer.  This  oame  from  Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire, 
•Guernsey. 

A  very  fine  lot  of  Carnations  came  from  Mr. 
A.  F.  Datton,  Bexley  Heath.  The  blooms  were 
large,  full  and  of  beautiful  form,  and  the  colours 
were  also  good.  Fair  Maid,  White  Enchantress, 
Winsor,  Enchantress,  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson,  Rose 
Pink  Enchantress  and  Britannia  were  all  good. 


ORCHIDS. 

Messrs.  Stanley  and  Co.,  Southgate,  N.,  had  a 
very  pretty  little  group,  in  which  was  the  splendid 
pure  white  Laslia  purpurata  Queen  Alexandra, 
with  three  large  flowers,  and  forming  a  very 
fine  plant ;  this  is  a  very  rare  form  of  this 
species  and  is  the  most  valuable  of  albinos.  In 
addition  we  noticed  a  fine  lot  of  Cattleya 
Mossiie  hybrids,  C.  Lady  Dainty,  C.  M.  Sunset, 
C.  M.  Sunrise,  C.  M.  Wagnerii  and  C.  M. 
reineckiana  splendens,  a  grand  plant  carrying 
eight  good  flowers  in  a  0  inch  pot. 

From  Messrs.  Cypher  and  Sons  of  Cheltenham 
came  a  most  interesting  group  arranged  in  their 
usual  high-class  style.  Miltonias  were  superb, 
and  the  manj'  Cattleyas,  L;eIio  Cattleyas,  Odonto- 
glossum  hybrids  and  others  all  added  their 
quota  of  beauty.  Among  others  of  special 
in'erest  were  fine  specimens  of  Dendrobium 
dalhousieanum  luteum,  some  very  fine  Brasso- 
Cattleyas,  such  as  digbyanum  Mossite,  d. 
Mendelii,  d.  Triaoie,  d.  gigas  and  d.  Schr;ider;i; ; 
Cattleya  Dusselldorfii,  with  pure  white  flowers, 
and  a  fine  set  of  Cattleya  Mossia;. 

Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co  ,  Hay  ward's 
Heath,  Sussex,  staged  a  large  and  very  attrac- 
tive group  of  admirably  grown  plants,  the  whole 
forming  a  large  floral  bank  of  great  beauty.     At 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  Mai/  29,  1909. 


the  back  were  arranged  masses  of  Odontoglossam 
hybrids  of  high  merit,  groups  of  Lfelio-Cattleyas 
and  various  others,  while  in  the  front  were 
displayed  numerous  rare  plants.  A  large  speci- 
men of  Cattleya  Skinneri  formed  a  very  con- 
spicuous feature.  A  new  Oncidium  named 
Charlesworthii  (a  natural  hybrid  of  chestnut 
brown  and  yellow  colouring)  and  L;elio-Cattleya 
Eurylochus  (a  very  bright  and  distinct  hybrid), 
were  some  of  the  more  interesting  subjects  to  be 
seen  in  this  very  good  group. 

F.  Menteith  Ogilvie,  The  Shrubbery,  Oxford 
(gardener,  Mr.  Bilmforth),  had  a  remarkably 
fine  group,  this  being  most  tastefully  arranged 
in  a  solid  bank.  Two  fine  masses  of  green- 
flowered  Cypripediums  were  represented  by  C. 
lawreneeanum  hyeanum,  C.  Marjorie  and  C. 
callosum  Sander*. 

Messrs.  William  Bull  and  Sons,  King's  Road, 
Chelsea,  brought  a  very  nice  group  of  well- 
flowered  plants,  these  all  being  in  a  most 
healthy  condition. 

Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans,  had  a 
remarkably  fine  group  arranged  in  a  series  of 
promontories  and  bays,  the  effect  being  a  most 
pleasing  one.  A  large  mass  of  Oncidiums 
made  a  central  feature,  some  very  fine  Lielio- 
Cattleyas  being  well  arranged  beneath.  In  the 
bays  were  numerous  choice  Odontoglossums, 
Cypripediums,  Miltonias  and  many  other  kinds, 
the  whole  forming  a  group  of  unsurpassing 
beauty  and  interest. 

The  group  from  Messrs.  Armstrong  and  Brown, 
Tunbridge  Wells,  was  of  a  highly  ornamental 
character,  this  again  being  formed  in  a  sort  of 
series  of  bays  and  recesses,  beautiful  plants 
ensconcing  themselves  among  Ferns  and  moss  in 
a,  very  natural-like  manner,  the  whole  being  of 
the  highest  quality.  Odontoglossum  hybrids, 
Cattleyas,  Cypripediums,  Sophronitis,  Brasso- 
Cattleyas  and  many  others  all  added  their 
quota  of  beauty  to  the  group. 

Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co.  of  Enfield  put  up 
a  good  group  of  well-grown  plants,  this  contain- 
ing many  that  were  of  more  than  usual  interest. 
A  few  that  specially  appealed  to  us  were  a  very 
fine  set  of  Cattleya  Mendelii  varieties,  these 
being  of  a  large  colour  range  and  most  pleasing 
in  every  way. 

M.  Charles  Vuylsteke,  Loochristi,  Belgium, 
staged  half-a-dozen  very  fine  Odontoglossums, 
these  being  very  beautifully  and  heavily 
marked,  the  flowers  attracting  considerable 
attention. 

Mr.  J.  Kobson,  Bowdon  Nurseries,  Altrincham, 
showed  a  very  choice  lot  of  Odontoglossum 
hybrids,  these  being  shown  under  numbers.  One 
with  a  pale  yellow  lip  specially  appealed  to  us. 

His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Northumberland  ex- 
hibited a  very  fine  bank  of  well-grown  plants, 
some  particularly  fine  examples  of  Dendrobium 
thyrsiflorum  forming  the  top  back  row.  Beneath 
these  Miltonias,  Cattleyas,  Odontoglossums  and 
other  kinds  were  freely  arranged,  the  whole  being 
very  attractive.  Among  others  Ltelio-Cattleya 
canhamiana  and  Chysis  bractesoens  were  of 
special  merit. 

Mrs.  Woods,  Glossop  (gardener,  Mr.  (4ould), 
put  up  a  good-sized  bank  of  medium  quality 
plants,  some  excellent  Odontoglossums  forming 
the  background.  In  front  we  noticed  some  good 
forms  of  Cattleya  Mossi.t,  La;lio-Cattleya  hyeana, 
L.-C.  highburyensis  and  a  good  specimen  of 
Miltonia  vexillaria. 

Leopold  de  Rothschild,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr. 
Reynolds),  exhibited  a  very  good  group  of  the 
seldom-seen  Vanda  teres,  the  plants  being  large 
and  especially  well  flowered. 

Messrs.  Moore,  Limited,  Rawdon,  Leeds,  had 
a  very  beautifully  arranged  group,  the  plants 
being  well  spaced  out  so  that  their  beauty  could 
be  seen  to  the  best  advantage,  the  two  Fern- 
lined  bays  being  particularly  attractive.  The 
quality  of  the  plants,  too,  left  nothing  to  be 
desired. 

The  group  from  Sir  .Jeremiah  Colman,  Bart., 
V.M  H.,  Gatton  Park,  Surrey  (gardener,  Mr.  J. 


Collier),  was  a  remarkably  fine  one,  the  plants 
being  noticeable  for  their  high  quality.  Miltonias 
were  particularly  good,  and  Odontoglossums, 
Cattleyas  and  many  other  families  which  are  not 
frequently  met  with  were  freely  employed. 

Richard  Ashworth,  Esq.,  Ashlands,  Newchureh 
(gardener,  Mr.  J.  Fletcher),  had  a  small  group  of 
Orchids  in  a  side  tent,  these  comprising  some 
good  Odontoglossums  and  a  good  specimen  of 
Dendrobium  Victoria  Regina,  these  bearing 
numerous  lilac-tinted  flowers. 


MISCELLANEOUS    GREENHOUSE 
PLANTS. 

Messrs.  .Jackman  and  Son,  Woking,  well  main- 
tained their  reputation  as  Clematis  specialists 
by  the  fine  exhibit  they  put  up.  Beautiful  speci- 
mens, bearing  ideal  flowers  in  profusion,  were  in 
evidence.  Among  the  better  specimens  were 
Fairy  Queen,  Miss  Bateman,  Nelly  Moser,  Ville 
de  Lyon,  Lady  Northcliffe,  Blue  Gem,  La  France, 
purpurea  elegans  and  the  double  Belle  of 
Woking. 

The  superb  group  of  stove  and  greenhouse 
plants  from  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons' 
Royal  Exotic  Nurseries,  Chelsea,  S.  W. ,  was  an 
object  of  admiration.  Handsome  Ciladiums 
Mme.  J.  15  5x,  Rose  Laing,  Pantia  Ralli  and 
many  others  were  conspicuous,  as  well  as  highly 
coloured  Crotons  in  variety.  Other  splendid 
foliaged  plants  included  Maranta  insignis, 
Alocasia  argyrea  and  A.  watsoniana,  as  well  as 
a  beautiful  lot  of  Orchids  and  Antirrhinums. 
Messrs.  Veitch  also  had  a  miscellaneous 
group  of  flowering  plants  made  in  many 
pleasing  tones  and  forms,  all  charmingly 
set  up.  Hardy  Azaleas,  Rhododendrons, 
Hydrangeas,  Andromeda,  Clematis,  Roses  and 
other  subjects  were  each  done  full  justice. 

Exceedingly  handsome  was  the  group  of 
Rhododendrons  from  Messrs.  John  Waterer  and 
Sons,  Limited,  American  Nurseries,  Bagshot, 
Surrey.  Superb  examples  of  Pink  Pearl  pre- 
dominated, the  flowers  being  very  large  and 
handsome  and  the  plants  freely  flowered. 

Clematises  from  Messrs.  Richard  Smith  and  Co. 
of  Worcester  were  represented  by  several  capital 
specimen  plants.  Among  other  good  sorts  we 
noticed  Sensation,  Nelly  Moser,  Enid  (very 
pretty)  and  Marie  Lefebvre,  all  useful  single 
sorts.  Good  doubles  were  Royal  Purple,  Venus, 
Viotrix  and  Willisonii.  Rambler  Roses  and 
Acers  formed  the  background. 

Fancy  Pelargoniums  were  nicely  shown  by  Mr. 
W.  J.  Godfrey,  Exmouth.  There  was  a  charm- 
ing series  of  plants  embracing  most  of  those 
worth  growing.  We  noticed  as  specially  good 
H.  S.  Davy,  Devonshire  Queen,  Black  Prince, 
Mabs,  Queen  of  the  West  and  Godfrey's  Success. 
Of  Ivy-leaved  kinds  Devonshire  Lass  and 
Countess  de  Grey  were  promising. 

Messrs.  James  Carter  of  High  Holborn,  W.C. , 
occupied  the  entrance  to  the  first  tent  with  a 
marvsUoua  array  of  beautiful  flowering  plants— 
Sohizanthus  in  variety,  Gloxinias  (a  very  fine 
strain),  brilliant  Cinerarias  with  large  individual 
flowers  and  large,  well-grown  plants.  Herba- 
ceous Calceolarias  filled  one  bay  completely,  and 
these  were  very  good.  There  were  also  the 
stellate  Cinerarias  that  were  much  admired,  and 
with  the  new  Spirfeas  in  variety  this  firm 
worthily  upheld  their  high  reputation.  The 
hanging  baskets  of  Sohizanthuses  were  very  fine. 
Carnations  and  Begonias  were  also  represented 
in  this  comprehensive  display. 

The  Hon.  Vioary  Gibbs,  Aldenham  House, 
F.lstree,  staged  a  beautiful  lot  of  new  hj-brid 
Streptocarpi.  They  were  set  up  in  blocks  of  a 
colour  and  were  really  beautiful. 

Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield,  had  a 
miscellaneous  array  of  plants,  including  the 
Bottle -Brush  Tree  (Metrosideros  floribunda). 
Hydrangeas,  Callaelliotiana,  Schizanthus,  Spiraeas 
and  many  other  plants. 

.Schizinthus  in  charming  variety  and  in  well 
grown  plants  were  staged  by  Messrs.  J.  Garraway 


and  Co.,  Clifton,  Bristol.  This  firm  has  a 
very  fine  strain,  the  flowers  being  large  and  the 
colour  beautifully  varied. 

New  and  choice  plants  were  staged  in  delight- 
ful variety  by  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons, 
Limited,  Chelsea.  This  is  always  a  most  in- 
teresting group,  containing  as  it  does  many  very 
choice  subjects.  Lobelia  tenuior,  Amphieome 
Emodii,  Richardia  elliotiana,  Streptocarpus, 
Cannas,  and  the  beautiful  Cineraria  Feltham 
Bouquet  were  included. 

Messrs.  Ker  and  Sons,  Liverpool,  exhibited 
a  very  beautiful  series  of  Hippeastrums.  There 
were  many  flowers  of  exceptional  merit,  and  the 
whole  of  them  were  of  good  quality.  Nestor, 
Empress,  Cherry  Plum,  Chiron  and  The  Queen 
were  exceptionally  good. 

Caladiums  from  Messrs.  John  Peed  and  Son, 
West  Norwood,  S.E. ,  were  a  most  attractive  lot, 
and  were  represented  in  a  group  of  large  and 
handsome  plants.  This  was  a  superb  display  and 
did  this  firm  great  credit  ;  Ferns  and  C.  Argyrites 
made  a  pretty  fringe  to  this  fine  group. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  occupied 
the  northern  end  of  the  large  tent  with  a  series 
of  five  large  groups,  representing  in  beautiful 
form  and  condition  Schizanthuses,  herbaceous 
Calceolarias,  stellate  Cinerarias  (a  really  lovely 
group),  with  insets  between  each  group  of  Clarkia 
(single  salmon),  double  tuberous  Begonias  (a 
glorious  array).  Gloxinias  in  beautiful  markingand 
a  charming  series  altogether.  Nemesia  Suttonii, 
large  and  small  flowered,  and  Nicotiana  affinis 
hybrids  were  a  pleasing  feature. 

Fragrant  Heliotropiums  made  a  charming 
group  as  set  up  by  the  King's  Acre  Nurseries, 
Limited,  Hereford.  The  plants  were  well  grown, 
each  one  bearing  a  grand  head  of  bloom.  Several 
varieties  were  represented,  and  the  colours  were 
pleasingly  diverse. 

Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans,  had  a 
miscellaneous  group  of  stove  and  greenhouse 
plants  representing  both  flowering  and  foliage 
specimens.  New  and  choice  aptly  describes  this 
collection,  which  contained  many  gems. 

A  charming  display  of  hardy  Azaleas  was 
made  by  Messrs.  R.  and  G.  Cuthbert,  South- 
gate,  N.  The  specimens  were  beautifully  fresh, 
and  the  colours  also  warm  and  pleasing.  This 
group  was,  indeed,  a  feast  of  soft  yet  warm  tones 
of  colour,  and  the  plants  were  charmingly  dis- 
posed. Interspersed  among  the  Azaleas  were 
richly  coloured  Acers  for  contrasting  effects. 

Messrs.  William  Bull  and  Sons,  King's  Road, 
Chelsea,  London,  had  a  most  interesting  group 
of  stove  and  greenhouse  plants,  in  the  centre  of 
which  a  smaller  group  of  richly  coloured  Hippe- 
astrums were  a  conspicuous  feature.  The  latter 
were  large  and  of  good  form. 

A  choice  group  of  plants  came  from  Mr.  L.  R. 
Russell,  Richmond.  There  was  a  wealth  of 
material  in  this  group,  but  the  plants  might 
have  been  disposed  to  better  advantage. 

Mr.  Frank  Lloyd  of  Coombe  House,  Croydon, 
made  a  very  handsome  display  of  his  new  seed- 
lings of  Begonia  Lloydii.  Both  in  colour  and 
form  there  are  many  charming  variations,  and 
this  new  type  of  Begonia  must  be  regarded  as  a 
valuable  addition  to  the  long  list  of  attractive 
greenhouse  flowering  plants. 

An  excellent  lot  of  herbaceous  Calceolarias 
came  from  Mr.  Vivian  Philips,  Crofton  Court, 
Orpington,  Kent.  The  individual  flowers  were  very 
large  and  well  grown.  The  plants  were  much 
admired  by  the  crowds  of  visitors,  but  required 
more  table  space  to  do  them  justice. 

Mr.  W.  H.  Page,  Hampton,  had  a  pretty  bank 
of  Rambler  Roses,  Liliums,  Pelargoniums  and 
the  new  pink  Spir.ta  Queen  Alexandra. 

A  very  beautiful  group  of  Ferns  and  other 
choice  foliage  plants  was  set  up  by  Messrs.  J. 
Hill  and  Sous,  Barrowfield  Nursery,  Lower 
Edmonton. 

A  really  handsome  collection  of  Ferns  in 
infinite  variety  was  exhibited  by  Messrs.  H.  B. 
May  and  Sons,  Upper  Edmonton.  We  have 
seldom    seen   these    plants   better    represented. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  Jfay  S9,  1909. 


Ji.  ooUeotion  of  double  and  single  Zonal  Pelar- 
goniums, in  which  were  many  of  the  new 
■Cactus  type,  was  set  up  by  the  same  firm. 

Messrs.  H.  Cannell  and  Son,  Stanley,  excelled 
in  their  representation  of  Phyllocaetus,  Fuchsia 
triphylla,  Spiraea  Peach  Blossom  and  a  gorgeous 
array  of  Cannas,  all  well  grown.  Begonia  nitida 
-was  also  a  welcome  feature  in  this  large  group. 

Zonal  Pelargoniums  came  from  Mr.  Vincent 
:Slade,  Taunton.  The  bunches,  of  which  there 
were  many,  were  of  large  size,  and  included  a  large 
number  of  sterling  sorts  —  Lucania,  Cymric, 
Mentmore,  Hibernia  and  Lord  Strathcona.  This 
firm  makes  a  speciality  of  this  subject  and  does 
it  well. 

Messrs.  W.  H.  Rogers  and  Son,  Limited, 
Southampton,  exhibited  a  group  of  their  new 
hybrid  Pelargonium  James  T.  Hamilton.  This 
is  a  cross  between  an  Ivy-leaved  variety  and  a 
-Zonal,  and  the  result  is  distinctly  good.  The 
colour  is  a  brilliant  crimson  and  is  most  effective. 

Mr.  Howarth,  gardener  to  Mr.  Wickham 
Noakes,  Selsdon  Park,  Ccoydon,  exhibited  a  very 
beautiful  lot  of  herbaceous  Calceolarias.  The 
plants  were  in  excellent  condition,  and  seldom 
have  we  seen  their  equal. 

Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown,  Stamford,  ex- 
hibited a  great  variety  of  flowering  and  foliage 
plants  in  the  form  of  a  table  group.  Verbenas 
in  variety.  Spiraeas,  Lilacs,  Heliotropiums  and  a 
variety  of  other  plants  were  a  feature  of  the  long 
tent. 

Small  Ferns  in  wonderful  assortment  came 
from  Mr.  H.  N.  Ellison,  West  Bromwieh.  There 
were  many  plants  that  appealed  to  a  large  num- 
ber of  visitors,  so  interesting  and  varied  were 
they. 

Indian  Azaleas  were  represented  by  a  large 
number  of  trained  specimens  that  were  exhibited 
by  Mr.  Charles  Turner,  Slough.  The  plants  were 
of  good  size,  freely  flowered  and  distinctly 
pleasing.  Mme.  van  Houtte,  Chicago,  Professor 
Walters  and  others  were  notable  specimens. 

Herbaceous  Calceolarias  came  from  Messrs. 
Toogood  and  Sons,  Southampton.  There  was  a 
nice  table  group  of  well-grown  plants. 


fresh  and  nicely  coloured,  and  included  most  of 
the  standard  sorts.  George  Herbert,  Mrs.  Collier, 
White  Spencer,  E.  J.  Castle  and  a  good  seedling 
were  noteworthy. 

Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover,  dis- 
played a  small  collection  of  Sweet  Peas  in  rustic 
metalware.  The  flowers  were  well  grown  and 
embraced  several  excellent  sorts. 


SWEET    PEAS. 

Mr.  Robert  Sydenham,  Birmingham,  made  a 
display  of  about  forty  vases  of  Sweet  Peas,  which 
included  standard  sorts  and  novelties,  George 
Herbert,  White  Spencer  and  several  very  fine 
seedlings  being  charmingly  represented.  Lily  of 
the  Valley,  growing  in  fibre,  was  shown  in  attrac- 
tive fashion  in  this  group. 

A  beautiful  collection  of  Sweet  Peas  came  from 
Messrs.  E.  W.  King  and  Co.,  Coggeshall,  Essex. 
Bamboo  stands  and  vases  were  used  on  which 
to  dispose  the  blossoms,  and  they  looked  most 
attractive.  Mrs.  William  King,  Lord  Charles 
Beresford,  Evelyn  Hemus  and  Princess  Victoria 
stood  out  from  the  rest. 

H.  J.  Jones's  Nurseries,  Limited,  Lewisham, 
S.E.,  set  up  a  large  and  comprehensive  display  of 
Sweet  Peas  in  glasses  specially  well  adapted  for 
the  purpose.  AH  the  standard  kinds  were  seen 
in  excellent  condition,  and  quite  a  number  of 
new  ones  were  largely  in  evidence. 

Messrs.  G.  Stark  and  Son,  Great  Ryburgh, 
staged  a  small  collection  of  S  iveet  Peas. 

Beautiful,  indeed,  were  the  Sweet  Peas  from 
Mr.  Breadmore,  Winchester.  The  better  varie- 
ties in  this  charming  exhibit  were  King  Alfonso, 
Marjorie  Linzee,  Dazzler,  Elsie  Herbert,  Con- 
stance Oliver,  Princess  Juliana  (a  new  primrose), 
Mrs.  C.  W.  Breadmore,  Audrey  Crier  and  Etta 
Dyke. 

Sweet  Peas  from  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co., 
Rothesay,  were  very  fine  indeed,  although  not 
numerous.  The  flowers  were  daintily  set  up,  of 
good  colour  and  were  well  grown.  Dobbie's  Mid 
Blue,  Mrs.  A.  Ireland,  Betty  Cantley,  New 
Crimson,  Masterpiece,  Earl  Spencer  and  others 
were  all  very  striking. 

Mr.  Robert  Chaplin,  Walthim  Cross,  had  a 
dainty  exhibit  of  Sweet  Peas.     The  flowers  were 


BEGONIAS. 

Magnificent  quality  was  represented  in  the 
group  of  plants  shown  by  Thomas  S.  Ware  ('02), 
Limited,  Feltham.  Large  and  attractive  flowers 
of  a  beautiful  series  of  colours  and  of  exquisite 
form,  all  grandly  staged,  revealed  the  decorative 
quality  of  the  Begonias  as  is  seldom  met  with. 

Messrs.  Blackmore  and  Lingdon,  Twerton 
Hill  Nurseries,  Bath,  set  up  a  group  of  Begonias 
staged  in  artistic  fashion,  and  this  included 
magnificent  quality  throughout.  We  liked  this 
arrangement  very  much. 

A  small  group  of  Begonias  was  stiged  by 
Messrs.  John  Laing  and  Sons,  Forest  Hill,  S.E. 
Although  a  pretty  little  exhibit,  we  have  in  our 
mind  the  fine  quality  of  exhibits  staged  in  years 
gone  by. 


HARDY   PLANTS    AND   ALPINES. 

At  the  opening  in  No.  3  tent  Messrs.  Barr  and 
Sons,  Covent  Garden,  displayed,  as  usual,  a  fine 
assortment  of  hardy  plants,  embracing  bulbous, 
alpine,  and  the  more  showy  and  choice  of  her- 
baceous perennials.  Early  flowering  P;vonies, 
Irises  of  the  Xiphioides  section,  Heucheras, 
Columbines,  Pyrethrums  and  other  showy  plants 
were  in  profusion. 

The  Guildford  Hardy  Plant  Nursery  displayed 
a  good  variety  of  alpine  and  other  hardy  plants, 
among  which  we  noted  Cypripediums,  many 
choice  Androsaces,  alpine  Phloxes,  early  Irises, 
Ledums,  Heucheras  and  other  plants.  Anthyllis 
montana  and  Onosma  alba  rosea  were  also  noted. 

Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay,  had  a 
delightful  lot  of  the  Tufted  and  exhibition 
Pansies  or  Violas,  together  with  a  large  assort- 
ment of  the  fancy  sorts.  It  is  almost  impossible 
to  give  names  where  a  representative  gathering 
of  all  the  sections  named  was  to  be  seen. 

Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  Keston,  Kent,  had  one  of  his 
remarkable  displays  of  choice  alpines.  Rhododen- 
drons and  other  plants,  such  Daphnes  as 
Cneorum,  Ourisia  coccinea,  Onosma  taurioa. 
Primula  cockburniana,  many  beautiful  Andro- 
saces and  Rimondias. 

Mr.  R.  C.  Notcutt,  Woodbridge,  had  a  com- 
pact group  of  herbaceous  flowers.  Poppies, 
Lupines,  Geums,  Irises,  Pyrethrums  and  other 
things  being  prominently  displayed. 

Mr.  Howard  H.  Crane,  4,  Woodview  Terrace, 
Highgate,  N.,  had  a  delightful  lot  of  the  Tufted 
Pansies  and  Violettas,  of  which  for  some  years 
past  he  has  made  a  special  study.  In  the  latter 
group  in  particular  we  now  find  many  beautiful 
and  decided  colours,  notably  such  as  Rock 
Yellow,  Parity,  Vestal,  Gertrude  Jekyll,  Diana 
and  many  seedlings. 

Bakers,  Wolverhampton,  displayed  a  very  fine 
assortment  of  Tufted  and  exhibition  Violas,  a 
large  and  representative  gathering  of  herbaceous 
and  bog  plants.  Poppies,  Saxifrages,  alpine 
Phloxes,  Cypripediums,  and  Sirracenias  also 
being  noted.  In  a  further  extension  the  firm  dis- 
played a  rockery  exhibit,  which  was  furnished 
with  many  good  and  delightful  plants. 

Clarence  Elliott,  Stevenage,  displayed  alpines 
on  limestone  rock,  and  the  alpine  Saxifrages  and 
Gentians  were  very  beautiful. 

Messrs.  Pulham,  Broxbourne,  Herts,  also  had 
a  rock  garden  arrangement,  whereon  Incarvilleas, 
Trilliums,  Gentians  and  other  plants  were  placed. 
Androsaoe  Chumbyi  was  very  beautiful. 

Mr.  M.  Prichard,  Christehureh,  Hants,  set  up 
a  rock  garden  in  the  open,  and  arranged  many 
choice  plants  thereon.  Among  the  choicer  things 
were  Wahlenbergia  saxatilis.  Iris  gracillipes, 
Ramondias,    Viola  pedata,   Primula   buUeyana, 


Anemone    alpina     sulphurea,    Potentilla     Miss 
Willmott  and  a  fine  form  of  Campanula  AUioni. 

The  rbckwork  arrangement  from  Messrs. 
Backhouse  and  Son,  York,  was  pleasing  and 
good,  the  colonies  of  Ramondias,  Iris  cristata. 
Primula  sikkimensis.  Gentians,  Cypripediums, 
Saxifrages,  Daphnes,  Haberleas,  Phlox  cana- 
densis and  the  like  being  very  charming. 

From  Messrs.  Bees,  Limited,  Mill  Street, 
Liverpool,  came  Inearvillea  Bonvalotii,  a  very 
fine  plant.  Primula  buUeyana  (with  verticillate 
inflorescences  of  orange  flowers),  P.  Forrestii 
and  P.  liehiangensis  were  a  trio  of  very  beautiful 
plants. 

ilessrs.  Harkness  and  Sons,  Bedale,  had  a  fine 
group  of  Globe  Flowers,  the  blossoms  individually 
of  large  size  and  rich  colouring  showing  these 
things  to  advantage. 

Messrs.  Catbush  and  Son  arranged  a  rook 
and  water  garden  in  the  open,  the  arrangement 
reflecting  taste  and  skill  on  the  operators. 
Eremuri,  Darlingtonias,  Sarracenias,  Primulas, 
Liliums  and  flowering  shrubs  were  disposed  in  a 
most  natural  manner.  Flowering  shrubs  were 
abundant  and  good. 

The  King's  Acre  Nurseries,  Hereford,  had  a 
pretty  group  of  alpines  on  rockwork,  a  large 
number  of  choice  plants  being  displayed,  Primula 
Sieboldii  in  variety,  Inearvillea  grandiflora, 
many  showy  Saxifrages,  hardy  Cypripediums, 
Onoaraa  tauriea,  alpine  Phloxes,  Primula  sikkim- 
ensis, Haberlea  rhodopensis  and  other  good 
things  being  noted. 

Messrs.  Jackman  and  Sons,  Woking,  displayed 
a  sumptuous  group  of  the  best  herbaceous  plants, 
in  which  the  Globe  Flowers,  Oriental  Poppies, 
Lupines,  Spanish  Irises,  early  Gladiolus  and 
Pyrethrums  were  well  represented.  Hardy 
Cypripediums  were  particularly  good,  and  with 
such  things  as  Inearvillea  grandiflora  and  Daphne 
Cneorum  a  very  fine  show  was  made. 

Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover,  had 
a  capital  group  of  hardy  flowers,  in  which  alpine 
Phloxes,  Pyrethrums,  Irises,  Eremuri,  Poppies, 
Tulips  and  Globe  Flowers  were  displayed  to 
advantage. 

Mr.  Godfrey,  Exmouth,  displayed  his  many 
beautiful  varieties  of  the  Oriental  Poppy  in 
shades  of  red,  crimson  and  salmon. 

The  Tulips  from  Messrs.  Hogg  and  Robertson, 
Dublin,  were  very  fine,  the  self-coloured  Darwins 
commanding  attention  at  ones,  Li  Tulipe  Noire, 
Velvet  King,  Clara  Butt,  The  Fawn  and  Scotia, 
a  flamed  flower  with  good  perfume,  being  parti- 
cularly noticeable. 

Mr.  B.  Lidhams,  Southampton,  had  a  fine 
group  of  herbaceous  plants,  in  which  a  gloriously 
fine  Heuchera  named  Shirley  was  strikingly  dis- 
played. Ostrowskia  magnifica,  Aquilegia  Stuartii 
and  Inearvillea  grandiflora  were  good. 

Messrs.  Gilbert  and  Son,  Bourne,  Lincolnshire, 
had  many  varieties  of  Anemones,  these  being  very 
beautiful  and  effective. 

Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  Limited, 
Belfast  and  Dublin,  had  a  remarkably  good  lot 
of  Tulips,  chiefly  May-flowering  and  Darwins, 
Europe,  N.  F.  Barnes,  Negro,  Mr.  Farncombe 
Sanders,  La  Candeur,  Gorgeous,  Duchess  of 
Westminster,  La  Tulip  Noire  and  Cherry  Ripe 
being  conspicuous  among  the  latter. 

Messrs.  William  Artindale  and  Sons,  Nether 
Green,  Sheflield,  had  a  delightfully  fresh  lot  of 
Violas,  and  these  arranged  on  dark  velvet  with 
small  pieces  of  Asparagus  made  a  pleasing  display. 
The  firm  also  set  up  a  rockery  exhibit,  and  here, 
too,  many  good  and  choice  things  were  advan- 
tageously displayed. 

Messrs.  George  Bunyard  and  Co.,  Maidstone, 
had  a  very  fine  hardy  plant  group,  in  which 
Pieonies,  Tulips,  Eremuri,  Poppies,  Geums  and 
other  showy  plants  were  to  be  seen.  Meoonopsis 
integrifolia,  the  double  Anemone  sylvestris.  Gaum 
Heldreichii,  Irises  and  Pyrethrums  were  amply 
displayed  and  in  superb  condition. 

The  Craven  Nursery,  Claphim,  Yorkshire^ 
brought  a  delightful  exhibit  of  alpines, 
arranged  with  much   taste   and  skill.     Perhaps 


Supplement  to  tHE  GARDEN.  May  S9, 1909. 


the  moat  charming  plants  in  a  very  delightful 
lot  were  the  lovelj'  tufts  of  Iris  eristata  full  of 
flower  and  buds  and  the  exquisite  rose  pink 
Daphne  rupestris  from  the  Tyrol. 

Messrs.  Gunn  and  Sons,  Olton,  near  Birming- 
ham, exhibited  a  fine  mass  of  Viola  cornuta 
atropurpurea  and  V.  e.  alba,  the  former  making 
a  superb  bank  of  colour,  well  demonstrating  the 
value  of  the  plant. 

Messrs.  Joseph  Cheal  and  Sons,  Crawley,  had 
a  pretty  roekwork  arrangement,  displaj'ing 
choice  alpines  in  the  best  and  most  natural 
manner  possible. 

Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Hardy  Plant  Farm,  Enfield, 
had  a  sumptuous  group  of  hardy  plants, 
displaj'ing  to  advantage  such  as  Papaver 
Mrs.  Perry,  Thalictruni  orientale.  Phlox  cana- 
densis Perry's  variet}',  Lithospermum  canescens. 
Tree  Pa-onies,  Thermopsis  fabacea  and,  not  least, 
a  very  remarkable  lot  of  Irises. 

Mr.  M.  Prichard,  Christchurch,  Hants,  had  a 
rich  display  of  good  things— Poppies,  Pa^onies, 
Irises,  Pyrethrums,  Eremuri,  early  flowering 
Gladioli  and  others. 

Mr.  H.  Hemsley,  Crawley,  had  a  capital 
rockery  exhibit  arranged  with  alpines  and 
shrubs,  the  former  including  Edraianthus, 
Achillea,  Myosotis  rupicola.  Phloxes  and  other 
good  things.  Iris  eristata  was  also  noteworthy, 
and  Ramondias,  and  other  plants  were  nicely 
disposed. 

The  Misses  Hopkins,  Shepperton,  had  a  large 
rockery  exhibit  arranged  in  the  open  and  taste- 
fully planted  with  choice  alpine  and  hardy  plants. 
The  alpine  Phloxes  and  Saxifraga  pyramidalis 
were  prominent  features. 

The  hardy  plant  group  from  Messrs.  Wallace 
and  Co.,  Colchester,  presented  an  imposing 
picture  of  the  best  hardy  herbaceous  and  bulbous 
flowers,  in  which  Lilies,  Irises,  Tulips,  Poppies, 
Eremuri,  Ixias  and  other  things  were  prominent. 
Particularly  good  were  the  displays  of  Eremurus 
robustus,  E.  himalaicus  and  others,  while  hand- 
some groups  of  many  Lilies  were  also  noticeable. 
In  the  open  Messrs.  Wallace  arranged  a  natural 
rock  and  water  garden,  where  many  alpines,  rock 
plants  and  shrubs  were  seen  to  advantage. 

Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath,  Limited,  had  a  very  fine 
display  of  Tulips  and  Irises,  the  former  including 
Darwin  and  May-flowering  varieties. 

OUTDOOR  GROUPS. 

Messrs.  James  N'eiteh  and  Sons,  Limited, 
arranged  a  very  charming  group  outdoors,  in 
which  was  included  Primulas  in  variety.  Phloxes, 
Eremuri,  Rhododendrons,  Deutzia,  Meconopsis 
and  Wistaria.     Altogether  a  beautiful  display. 

Roses  and  Carnations  in  beautiful  variety, 
prettily  disposed,  as  shown  by  Messrs.  Hugh  Low 
and  Co. ,  made  a  welcome  break-away  from  the 
orthodox  grouping  followed  at  this  show. 

Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons"  Japanese  pigmy  trees 
were  as  fascinating  as  ever.  A  large  number  of 
specimens  were  shown  of  various  ages  and  most 
of  them  in  good  condition. 

Miscellaneous  flowering  and  foliage  plants  were 
prettily  grouped  by  Mr.  R.  C.  Noteutt,  Wood- 
bridge.  The  Azaleas  were  very  charming,  as 
were  the  Hydrangeas,  Cytisus  and  the  Spirjeas. 
Altogether  a  most  interesting  series  of  plants. 

Clipped  trees  of  Yew  and  Box  were  splendidly 
shown  by  Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Son.  The 
representations  in  this  instance  were  pleasing 
and  very  varied,  and  the  trees  were  all  in  the 
pink  of  condition.  Messrs.  Cutbush  also  had  a 
group  of  Spir»as  Pearl  Blossom,  Verbenas  and 
other  flowering  plants. 

Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  Cheshunt,  made  a  small 
group  of  beautiful  Lilacs  and  other  useful  hardy 
plants,  both  flowering  and  foliage. 

Rhododend  rons  and  Japanese  Maples  were  freely 
shown  by  Messrs.  John  Waterer  and  Sons, 
Limited,  Bagshot.  The  first  mentioned  were 
very  handsome,  and  with  Kalmias  made  a 
beautiful  piece  of  colour  on  the  green  sward. 

Japanese  Maples  and  a  fine  batch  of  Rhodo- 
dendrons   Pink  Pearl  well   upheld   the   reputa- 


tion of  Messrs.  Thomas  Cripps  and  Son,  Limited, 
Tunbridge  Wells,  Kent.  Acer  palmatum  palma- 
tifidum  was  a  grand  specimen,  and  there  were 
many  such  plants  as  Retinospora  obtusa  Crippsii 
in  variety. 

Messrs.  H.  Lane  and  Son,  Great  Berkham- 
sted,  Herts,  grouped  in  impressive  fashion 
hardy  Azaleas,  Rhododendrons,  Rambler  Roses, 
Genistas  and  other  plants.  The  rain  interfered 
with  the  display  seriously. 

Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons,  Crawley,  Sussex, 
set  up  a  large  group  of  useful  hardy  flowering 
and  foliage  plants.  Spir.ea  confusa.  Rhododen- 
drons, Clematis  and  a  large  and  varied  collection 
of  subjects,  all  most  interesting,  filled  a  large 
space  and  did  this  firm  great  credit. 

FRUIT. 

Messrs.  George  Bunyard  and  Co. ,  Maidstone, 
had,  as  usual,  a  very  interesting  exhibit  of  Apples 
in  a  remarkably  good  state  of  preservation,  some 
sevent}'  varieties  being  very  tastefully  displayed 
on  dishes,  a  raised  stand  in  the  centre  adding  to 
the  beauty  of  the  whole.  Two  fine  Cherry  trees 
in  full  fruit  in  pots  were  placed  one  at  each  end. 

Messrs.  Laxton  Brothers  of  Bedford  were 
well  maintaining  their  high  reputation  with  a 
splendid  exhibit  of  Strawberries,  gathered  fruits 
and  fruiting  plants  in  pots  being  freely  and  taste- 
fully displayed.  The  colour  and  size  of  the  whole 
was  excellent. 

Messrs.  T.  Rivers  and  Son  of  Sawbridgeworth 
were  showing  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  Cherries 
and  ( ;  rapes  in  pots  in  their  usual  high-class  style. 
The  Peaches  were  particularly  well  coloured,  the 
trees  bearing  very  heavy  crops  of  large-sized 
fruits.  Peaches  Peregrine  and  Duke  of  York 
and  Nectarines  Cardinal  and  Rivers'  Early  were 
all  shown  to  perfection. 

VEGETABLES. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons  of  Reading  well 
maintained  their  high  reputation  with  two 
superb  vegetable  exhibits.  One  was  composed 
of  Potatoes  grown  under  ordinary  frame  culture 
from  sets  planted  on  February  '26th.  These 
were  of  good  size  and  excellent  quality, 
the  whole  being  most  tastefully  displayed. 
Messrs.  Sutton's  other  vegetable  exhibit  in- 
cluded all  that  is  good  in  the  vegetable  world, 
and  the  produce  was  a  silent  but  strong  testi- 
monial to  the  value  of  the  Sutton  strains.  Over 
forty  varieties  of  vegetables  were  included,  these 
comprising  such  as  Peas,  Asparagus,  Climbing 
French  Beans,  Lettuce.  The  Sutton  Rhubarb, 
Tomatoes,  Cucumbers,  Radishes,  Vegetable 
Marrows,  Mushrooms  and  many  others,  the 
whole  forming  a  most  interesting  and  praise- 
worthy group. 

Mr.  S.  Mortimer,  Farnham,  Surrey,  exhibited 
a  very  good  lot  of  Cucumbers  and  Tomatoes, 
these  being  in  first-class  condition.  Among  the 
former  were  Express,  Tender  and  True  (extra 
good),  Mortimer's  Bounteous,  Improved  Tele- 
graph, and  Approved  or  Lord  Roberts. 

The  Thateham  Fruit  and  Flower  Farm,  near 
Newbury,  which  is  really  a  school  of  gardening 
for  girls,  staged  a  group  of  vegetables  and 
salads  grown  under  the  French  system.  Lettuces, 
Cabbages,  Turnips,  Carrots,  Mushrooms,  Peas  and 
Cauliflowers  were  all  freely  displayed  in  good  con- 
dition, the  whole  forming  an  interesting  exhibit. 

DFFIflAL    LIST    I  IB'    AWARDS. 

Goid  ^fec^al!i.  —ytessrs.  Charlesworfch  and  Co.,  Hayward's 
Healb,  for  Orchids :  Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Son,  Highgate 
for  rock  garden  plants  ;  Messrs.  .Tames  V'eitch  and  Sons 
Chelsea,  for  stove  foliage  plants,  herbaceous  plants 
rtowering  plants,  trees,  &c.  :  Messrs.  R.  Wallace  and  Co 
Colchester,  for  Tulips,  Lilies,  Pseouies,  Irises,  hardy  plants 
and  water  garden:  Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Son,  Waltham 
Cross,  for  Roses,  trees  and  shrubs  :  Messrs.  Paul  and  Son, 
Cheshunt,  for  Roses,  Lilacs  and  .new  shrubs  :  Messrs. 
H.  K.  May  and  Sons,  Edmonton,  for  exotic  and  hardy 
Ferns,  and  flowering  plants :  Mr.  H.  Burnett,  St. 
Margaret's,  Guernsey,  for  Carnations  :  Messrs.  J.  Waterer 
and  Sons.  Limited,  Bjgshot,  for  P.hododendrous,  flowering 
and  evergreen  shrubs. 

surer  Cups.— Sir  J.  Colman,  Bavt.  (gardener,  Mr.  .T. 
Collier',  Gatton   Park,   Surrey,   for  Orchids  ;  Leopold  de 


Rothschild,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  Reynolds),  Gunnersbury 
Park,  W.,  for  Vanda  teres  ;  Mrs.  Kershaw  Wood  (gardener, 

r.  J.  Gould),  GIossop,  Derbyshire,  for  Orchids  and 
Gloxinias ;  Messrs.  Armstrong  and  Brown,  Tunbridge 
Wells,  for  Orchids  ;  Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans, 
for  Orchids  and  foliage  plants  ;  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and  Sons, 
Chelsea,  for  hardy  flowering  plants  and  shrubs ;  Mr. 
L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond,  Surrey,  for  flowering  trees  and 
shrubs  ;  Messrs.  J.  Carter  and  Co.,  Holborn,  W.C.,  for 
flowering;  plants,  Begonias,  Carnations,  Gloxinias,  &c. ; 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  C'ovent  Garden,  W.C,  for 
hardy  plants,  pigmy  trees  and  herbaceous ;  Messrs. 
G.  Jacknian  and  Son.  Woking,  for  Clematis  and  hardy 
plants  :  Mr.  A.  Perry,  Enfield,  for  Tree  Pseonies  and 
herbaceous  ;  Mr.  G.  Renthe,  Keston,  for  alpines.  Rhododen- 
drons, Tulips  and  rare  shrubs  ;  Messrs.  H.  Cannell  and 
Son,  Swanley,  for  Canuas,  Cacti  and  Phyllocactus ; 
Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons,  Crawley,  for  trees  and  shrubs, 
alpines  and  rock  garden  ;  Messrs.  Bell  and  Sheldot., 
Guernsey,  for  Carnations ;  Messrs.  ¥.  Cant  and  Co., 
Colchester,  for  Roses  ;  The  Craven  Nursery,  Clapbam, 
Lancaster,  for  alpines  ;  Mr.  G.  Mount,  Canterbury,  for 
Roses :  Tlie  American  Carnation  Nursery,  Sawbridge- 
worth, for  Carnations :  Messrs.  T.  Cripps  and  Sod, 
Tunbridge  Wells,  for  Japanese  Acers,  &c.  ;  Messrs.  Alex. 
Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards,  for  Tulips  and  Roses ; 
Hobbies,  Limited,  Dereham,  for  Roses :  Messrs.  J. 
Backhouse  and  Son,  York,  for  a  miniature  rock  garden ; 
Messrs.  R.  and  G.  Cuthbert,  Southgate,  N.,  for  Azaleas ; 
Messrs.  R.  P.  Ker  and  Son,  Liverpool,  for  Amaryllis; 
Alessrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Son,  for  clipped  trees,  Carna- 
tions, Roses,  Ac.  ;  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  for 
greenhouse  plants ;  and  Messrs.  T.  Rivers  and  Son, 
Sawbridgeworth,  for  fruit  trees  in  pots. 

Sliermiwl  Cup  (value  t21 1.  —  Class  1  B,  for  group  of 
Orchids,  F.  Menteith  Ogilvie,  Esq.,  Oxford,  for  Orchids; 
silver  cup  to  Sir  .Tereniiah  Colman,  Reigate,  for  Orchids. 
Class  1  C,  group  of  Orchids,  not  exceeding  75  sq.  ft.,  first 
(Veitch  Memorial  Medal  and  x.5),  Duke  of  Marlborough ; 
second,  small  silver  cup,  Mrs.  Kershaw  Wood  of  GIossop. 
Class  1  D,  Orchids  not  exceeding  35  sq.  ft.,  first,  silver  cup, 
not  awarded  ;  second,  silver  Flora  medal,  to  Mr.  R,  Ash- 
worth,  Manchester. 

Silvrr-r/iU  Flora  MnJal^.—P.  Lloyd,  Esq.,  Coombe  House, 
Croydon  (gardener,  .Mr.  M.  Mills),  for  a  group  of  Begonias ; 
R.  Adnet,  Esq.,  Capd'Autibes,  France,  for  hybrid  Gerberas ; 
J.  W.  Moore,  Limited,  Rawdon,  Leeds,  for  Orchids  ;  M. 
Prichard,  Esq.,  Christchurch,  Hants,  for  alpine  and  rock 
plants ;  Bikers',  Wolverhampton,  for  Violas,  Sweet 
Peas,  rock  garden  and  herbaceous  plants  ;  Messrs.  T.  S. 
Ware,  Feltham,  for  Begonias,  Carnations,  &c. ;  Messrs. 
Blackmore  and  Lauedou,  Bith,  for  tuberous  Begonias ; 
Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath,  Wisbech,  for  Tulips  and  Carnations  ; 
Messrs.  H.  Lowand  Co.,  Enfield,  N.,  for  Orchids,  Carnations 
and  Roses ;  Messrs.  C.  Turner,  Slough,  for  Roses  and 
Azaleas ;  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Son,  Colchester,  for 
Roses  ;  Messrs.  A.  F.  Dutton,  Iver,  Bucks,  for  Carnations  ; 
Messrs.  J.  Peed  and  Sou,  West  Norwood,  for  Caladiums; 
Mr.  C,  F.  Walters,  Balcombe,  for  Carnations :  Messrs.  .T. 
Hill  and  ?'on,  Lower  Edmonton,  for  Ferns  :  and  Messrs. 
W.  Fromow  and  Sou,  Chiswick,  for  .Tapauese  Maples. 

Silrri-gilt  Kin'rfkliaii  Medals. — Messrs.  G.  Bunyard  and' 
Co.,  Maidstone,  for  fruit  trees  in  pots ;  and  Mr.  S. 
Mortimer,  Farnham,  Surrey,  for  Carnations,  Cucumbers 
and  Tomatoes. 

.^ilrer-gill  Bantsiaii  Medttlfi.—ilr.  W.  H.  Page,  Hampton, 
for  Carnations,  Liliums,  Roses,  &c. ;  Mr.  R.  C.  Noteutt, 
Woodbridge,  for  hardy  flowers :  Messrs.  W.  Bull  and 
Son,  Chelsea,  for  Orchids,  foliage  plants  and  cut 
flowers;  and  Messrs.  R,  Smith  and  Co.,  Worcester,  for 
Clematis. 

Silver  Ku'ghtian  Medals.— Mesars.  Hughes,  .Tones  and 
Peers,  Thateham  Fruit  Farm,  Xewbury,  for  vegetables 
and  salads  ;  Mr.  R.  Stephenson,  Burwell,  Cambridge,  for 
Asparagus  ■  ilessrs.  .1.  and  F.  Chatfield,  Southwick,  Sussex, 
for  Strawberries  ;  and  Messrs.  Laxton  Brothers,  Bedfoi-d, 
for  Strawberries. 

Silrer  Floin  Medals.— The  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs  (gardener, 
Mr.  E.  Beckett,  V.M.H.),  Elstree,  Herts,  for  Strepto- 
carpus ;  Wickhain  Noakes,  Esij.  (gardener,  Mr.;  W. 
Howarth),  Selsdon  Park,  Croydon,  for  Calceolarias : 
H.  Mathias,  Esq..  Stubbington,  Hants,  for  Carnations  ; 
Mr.  A.  R.  ("pton,  Millmead,  Guildford,  for  alpines  ;  Mr. 
J.  Piper,  Bayswater,  W.,  for  trained  Box  trees  ;  Misses 
Hopkins,  Shepperton,  for  alpines  and  rock  plants ; 
Mr.  C.  Eugelnian,  Saffron  Walden,  for  Carnations ; 
Messrs.  Cypher,  Cheltenham,  for  Orchids  ;  Messrs.  G.  and 
A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover,  for  hardy  flowers,  plants,  Ac.  ; 
Mr.  C.  W.  Breadmore,  Winchester,  for  Carnations.  Ac; 
Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay,  for  Violas  and  Sweet 
Peas  :  Messrs.  Hogg  and  Robertson,  Dublin,  for  Tulips  ;  Mr. 
H.  Hemsley,  Crawley,  for  alpines  and  rock  plants  ;  Messrs. 
H.  .I.Jones,  Limited,  Lewisham,  for  Sweet  Peas,  (fee.  ;  Mr. 
W.  R.  Chaplin,  Waltham  Cross,  for  Sweet  Peas  ;  Mr.  J. 
Green,  March,  for  Carnations  ;  Messrs.  E.  W.  King  and  Co, , 
Coggeshall.  for  Sweet  Peas;  Messrs.  Ladhams,  Limited, 
Shirley,  for  hardy  flowers  and  plants :  Mr.  W.  H. 
Lancashire,  Guernsey,  for  Carnations  ;  and  Mr.  George 
Priuce,  Lnngworth,  for  Roses. 

SHrrr  Baiik-siaii  Medals.— MessTa  Stanley  and  Co.,  for 
Orchids  :  Messrs.  W.  Artindale  and  Son,  SheHield,  for 
alpines,  Ac.  ;  Messrs.  G.  Mallett  and  Co.,  Cheddar,  for 
rock  and  herbaceous  plants  ;  Mr.  W.  H.  Page,  Hampton, 
forCarnatious,  Roses,  Ac. ;  The  King's  .Kcre  Nurseries, 
Limited.  Hereford,  for  alpines  and  herbaceous  plants  : 
Mr.  C.  Elliott,  Stevenage,  for  a  miniature  rock  girden : 
Mr  H.  H.  Ellison,  West  Bromwich,  for  Ferns  :  Messrs. 
Gunn  and  Sons,  Olton,  for  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  Ac.  ; 
Mr.  Frank  Lilley,  St.  Peter's,  Guernsey,  for  Gladioli  and 
bulbous  plants  ;  ilessr?.  Storrie  and  Storrie,  Perth,  for 
Polyanthus  and  .Auriculas;  and  Vivian  Phillips,  Esq.  (gar- 
dener, Mr.  T.  Hobbs),  Orpington,  for  Calceolarias. 


^gfey- 


GARDEN 


-^^- 


No.  1959. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


June  5,  1909. 


CONTBNTS 


New  Plants   at  the 

Trees  and  Shrubs 

Temple  Show  . .     . . 

273 

R  h  0  d o  d  e  nd r  o n 

Prizes  for  Eeaders 

274 

Souliei     

277 

Notes  of  the  Week 
Carnations     at     tlie 

Temple  Show 
Kliod  odendrons 

at  Kegent's  Park  . . 

274 
■174 

Flower  garden 
The  hardy  Primulas 
Sweet  Pea  chat 
Raising   Wallflowers 
from  seed       . .     . . 

278 
279 

279 

CORRESFONIISIlOB 

An  aquatic  and  marsh 

279 

Cheiranthus    Harpur 

274 

Gardeniks  fOR  Beoinnebs 

Cotoneaster  angusti- 

Garden  work  week  by 

?75 

week 

2SU 

Room     plants      and 

wild 

Vif. 

their  culture  . .     . . 

280 

COLOURED  Plate 

The  Town  Garden  .. 

281 

Some  of   the  newer 

GARDBHINQ  OP  THE  WEEK 

Strawberries  . .     . , 

?,7S 

For  the    South   and 

FRtriT  Garden 

South  Midlands    . . 

282 

For  the  North    and 

hardy  wall  climber 

North  Midlands  .. 

282 

out  of  doors  . .     . . 

27S 

Sweet    Peas     at     the 

'QREENHODSE 

Temple  Show    . .     . . 

282 

Three      climbing 

The     National     Tulip 

Groundsels    or 

Show 

283 

Senecios 

276 

How    to    grow    fruit 

ROSE  GARDEN 

trees  in  pots      . .     . . 

2S3 

The  Lyon  Rose . . 

276 

Answers     to     corre- 

Current work  among 

spondents 

the  Roses       . .     . . 

2VV 

Flower  garden  ..     .. 

284 

Trees  and  Shkdbs 

Greenhouse 

284 

A  rare  Willow  . .     . . 

277 

Rose  garden      . .     . . 

284 

IliLUSTRATIONS. 

aome  of  the  newer  Strawberries       . .     . .     Coloured  plate 

Wild  Daffodils  in  grass 275 

A  single  bloom  of  the  Lyon  Rose      277 

The  new  Rhododendron  Souliei 27S 

Phloxes,  Irises  and  Spiraeas 279 

Room  plants  and  their  culture 2S0,  281 


BDITORIAL.    NOTICBS. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
■Gabdbk,  a/nd  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
coTnpetent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  loishes  to  make 
the  ^* Answers  to  Correspondents"  colum/ns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  priTited,  he  hopes  readers 
toill  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  comm.unications  mit^t  be  loritten  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  a/nd  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Oarden,  a^ompa/nied  by  name  and  address  of  tJie  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  a/nd  notes, 
but  he  utiU  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
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toiU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W,C. 


NEW    PLANTS    AT    THE 
TEMPLE   SHOW. 

ODONTOGLOSSUM  MIRUM 
,  EMPEROR  OF  INDIA.— A 
I  beautiful  large-flowered  variety  of 
good  shape,  the  petals  being  rather 
wider  and  more  fringed  than  the 
sepals,  which,  however,  are  more  pointed.  The 
latter  are  of  a  clean,  dull  crimson  hue,  the 
petals  being  slightly  marbled  white,  all  the 
segments  being  edged  white  also.  The  labellum 
is  similar  and  has  the  usual  small  yellow  cushion. 
Odontoglossum  Princess  Victoria 
Alexandra.  —  This  is  quite  the  purest  and 
prettiest  member  of  this  family  we  have  yet 
seen.  All  the  segments  are  remarkably  regular 
in  outline,  the  d^p  blood  red  colour  not  being 
sullied  in  the  least,  its  purity  being  enhanced 
by  the  narrow  and  regular  white  margin.  The 
petals  and  labellum  are  prettily  fringed,  and 
altogether  it  is  an  Orchid  to  be  proud  of. 

Odontoglossum  Aglaon. — A  very  refined- 
looking  flower  of  dull  purplish  mauve  colouring, 
this  being  mottled  and  marbled  with  varying 
shades  of  white.  The  flowers  are  large,  the 
sepals  and  petals  being  rather  acutely  pointed. 
All  the  above  were  shown  by  Mr.  C.  Vuylsteke, 
Loochristi,  Belgium,  and  each  received  a  first- 
class  certificate. 

L.s;lio-Cattleya  Eokyloohus. — A  very  rich 
member  of  this  bi-generio  race,  and  although  the 
flowers  are  rather  small,  this  is  more  than 
compensated  for  by  the  remarkable  colour 
combination.  The  sepals  are  rather  narrow  and 
pointed,  the  petals  being  about  twice  as  broad, 
the  colour  of  both  being  a  rich  reddish  apricot, 
this  being  rather  the  deepest  in  the  sepals.  The 
labellum,  which  is  comparatively  large,  is  of  a 
rich  velvety  crimson  colour,  the  outside  of  the 
throat  being  rich  yellow.  The  plant  exhibited 
had  four  well-developed  flowers.  First-class 
certificate. 

Oncididm  Chaelesworthii. — A  very  richly 
coloured  flower  that  is  most  difficult  to  describe. 
The  sepals  and  petals  are  rich  brown  in  colour, 
this  being  lightly  mottled  with  yellow,  the  large 
labellum  being  the  same  with  the  exception  of 
the  good-sized  bright  yellow  patch  at  the  base. 
The  plant  had  one  large  raceme  composed  of 
twelve  fully  developed  flowers.  First-class  certifi- 
cate. Both  were  shown  by  Messrs.  Charlesworth 
and  Co. ,  Hayward's  Heath. 

Cattleya  Mossi^  Gatton  Park  variety. — 
A  large  and  deeply  coloured  form  of  the  well- 
known  Mossise,  the  labellum  being  prettily 
marked  with  crimson  and  yellow.  Shown  by  Sir 
Jeremiah  Colman,  Bart.,  Gatton  Park,  Surrey. 
Award  of  merit. 


Sigmatostalix  Elle. — A  very  small-flowered 
Orchid  of  botanical  interest  only.  The  labellum 
is  the  only  conspicuous  part  of  the  blossom,  this 
being  fan-shaped  and  yellow,  thickly  dotted 
over  with  reddish  brown  spots.  Botanical 
certificate. 

Oncidium  retebmeybrianum. — A  very  small- 
flowered  form  of  this  race,  the  sepals  and  petals 
being  a  light  reddish  brown  and  the  labellum 
dull  crimson.  Botanical  certificate.  Both  the 
above  were  shown  by  Mr.  J.  Birohenall,  Alderley 
Edge,  Cheshire. 

BnLBOPHYLLnai  lemniscatoides.  —  A  very 
curious  little  member  of  this  family.  The  plant 
shown  had  two  inflorescences,  each  forming  a 
sort  of  enlarged  pendulous  catkin,  each  tiny 
black  flower  having  three  thread-like  appendages 
and  the  whole  clustering  round  a  central  column, 
the  inflorescence  being  supported  on  a  long,  up- 
right, slender  stem.     Botanical  certificate. 

Gongora  quinquenbrvis. — This  is  a  remark- 
able and  striking  flower,  the  dull  yellow  ground 
colour  being  heavily  striped  with  chestnut  brown 
bars  placed  crossways.  Two  comparatively  large 
segments  stand  upright  like  pointed  ears,  the 
pouch  and  labellum  being  also  of  a  weird 
character.  A  flower  that  defies  description. 
Botanical  certificate.  The  two  plants  were  shown 
by  Sir  Jeremiah  Colman,  Bart.,  Gatton  Park, 
Surrey. 

Rose  Coquina.  —  A  charming  pure  white 
single-flowered  Rambler,  virtually  a  single  white 
Hiawatha,  which  may  be  better  imagined  than 
described.  Shown  by  Messrs.  William  Paul  and 
Son,  Waltham  Cross  ;  and  Hobbies,  Limited, 
Dereham. 

Rose  Margaret. — A  delightfully  full  and 
shapely  Hybrid  Tea  Rose  of  much  the  same 
colour  as  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  and  not  unlike 
Queen  of  Spain  in  shape.  The  flower  is  of  large 
size.  Exhibited  by  Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Son, 
Waltham  Cross. 

Rose  American  Pillar. — A  single-flowered 
variety  of  resplendent  beauty  and  large  size, 
producing  immense  clusters  of  bloom.  The 
colour  is  deep  rose  pink,  the  base  of  the  petals 
being  white.  A  very  striking  variety  that  is 
bound  to  become  popular.  Shown  by  Messrs. 
Cannell  and  Sons,  Swanley. 

Rose  Jessie. — A  double-flowered  variety  of 
the  Polyantha  class,  the  colour  being  clear 
bright  crimson  and  the  habit  branching  yet 
compact.  A  very  free  and  eantinuous  bloomer. 
Exhibited  by  Messrs.  H.  Merryweather  and 
Sons,  Limited,  Southwell. 

Rose  Mrs.  Taft. — A  Polyantha  Rose,  the 
flowers  of  which  are  rose  pink,  very  double,  and 
produced  in  great  profusion.  From  Messrs. 
Hugh  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield. 


274 


THE    GARDEN. 


[June  5,  1909. 


Carnation  Carola. — A  perpetual  -  flowering 
variety  of  the  largest  size,  the  blossoms  being 
produced  on  long,  stiff  stems.  The  colour  is 
maroon  crimson  and  the  petals  slightly  lacerated. 
The  flowers  are  strongly  Clove-scented.  A  good 
advance  on  existing  varieties.  From  Mr.  C. 
Engelmann,  Saffron  Walden. 

Begonia  Pink  Pearl. — A  double-flowered 
variety  of  much  excellence,  the  blossoms  being  of 
the  largest  size  and  of  an  exquisite  clear  salmon 
hue.  A  most  lovely  shade  of  colour.  From 
Messrs.  Blaekmore  and  Langdon,  Bath. 

Ficus  australis  varikgata. — The  exhibited 
examples  of  this  novelty  suggested  a  dwarf -grow- 
ing, small-leaved  variety  of  F.  elastiea,  the  leaves, 
which  are  of  creamy  yellow  variegation, possessing 
much  of  the  substance  of  the  old  species.  From 
Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans. 

Ptychoraphis  siebertiana.— a  pretty  and 
graceful  Palm  after  the  style  of  Cieonoma 
gracilis  or  one  of  the  Areoas.  From  Messrs. 
Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans. 

Chrysanthemum  frutescens  White  Perfec- 
tion.— A  pure  white  variety  of  the  Marguerite 
type,  having  a  flattish  Anemone  or  quilled  centre. 
From  Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover. 

Iris  hybrida  Sir  Diohton  Proeyn  (I.  pallida 
dalmatioa  x  I.  iberica). — A  very  handsome  and 
showy  plant  of  good  stature  and  considerable 
merit.  The  standards  or  erect  petals  are 
coloured  a  rosy  mauve  and  faintly  though  freely 
lined  with  white.  The  purplish  crimson  or 
reddish  falls  are  of  a  large  size  and  are  rendered 
more  conspicuous  by  a  signal  or  blotch  of  dark 
velvet  colour.  The  style-branches  are  coloured 
a  rich  brownish  crimson,  which  renders  the 
variety  very  conspicuous.  The  variety,  too,  is 
possessed  of  a  fine  habit,  and  this  largely  par- 
taking of  I.  pallida  will  render  it  most  weloome 
for  the  decoration  of  the  garden.  From  Mr. 
Amos  Perry,  Enfield. 

Iris  hybrida  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence  (I. 
pallida  dalraatica  x  I.  iberica).  The  standards 
and  falls  are  coloured  a  rather  deep  rose-mauve 
shade,  the  former  being  heavily  pencilled  to  the 
outer  edges  of  the  flower,  and  the  latter  heavily 
and  profusely  veined  about  the  base.  This  and 
the  preceding  kind  are  both  handsome,  and  were 
raised  by  the  late  Professor  Foster  of  Cambridge. 
From  Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Hardy  Plant  Farm, 
Enfield. 

Each  of  the  foregoing  received  an  award  of 
merit. 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 

JUNE. 

THE  PRINCIPAL  INSECT  FRIENDS 
AND  FOES  OF  THE  GARDEN, 
AND  THE  BEST  MEANS  OF 
EXTERMINATING    THE    LATTER. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


A  Fint  Prize  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A   Second  Ptiu  of  TVO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourth  Prize  of  HALF-A-GUINEA 

are  offered  for  the  best  essays  on  the  above 
subject. 
The  notes  (restricted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
enclosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
addressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  Thb  Oabdbn,  20, 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  must  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Wednesday,  June  30.  Both  amateur  and  pro- 
fessional gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  The  Gabdbn  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi  - 
bility  for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSS.  of  nnsuooessful  oompetitors.  The  Editor's 
deoision  is  final. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

June  8. — Royal  Horticultural  Society.  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers,  &c.,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m.  Lecture 
at  3  p.m.  by  Rev.  Professor  G.  Henslow, 
V.M.H.,  on  "Some  Old  Superstitions  about 
Plants."  Admission,  2s.  6 J.  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 

June  9. — Royal  Cornwall  Show  (two  days). 

June  16. — Grand  Yorkshire  Gala  (three  days). 

June  28. — Isle  of  Wight  Rose  Society. 


The  Dean  Hole  Medal.— At  a  general 

committee  meeting  of  the  National  Rose  Society, 
held  on  May  18,  the  Dean  Hole  Medal  was,  by 
unanimous  vote,  awarded  to  the  Rev.  J.  H. 
Pemberton,  on  account  of  his  work,  "  Roses : 
Their  History,  Development  and  Cultivation," 
which  was  published  last  year  by  Messrs.  Long- 
mans, Green  and  Co.  This  medal  is  awarded 
from  time  to  time  to  those  who  have  rendered 
service  in  forwarding  the  culture  of  the  Rose, 
and  we  think  it  could  not  have  been  awarded  to 
anyone  better  on  the  present  occasion. 

Sale  of  Qpchids,  Carnations  and 
OtheP  plants. — Messrs.  Wilson  and  Gray, 
auctioneers,  of  Mount  Street,  Grosvenor  Square, 
W. ,  have  been  instructed  to  sell  the  collection  of 
Orchids,  Carnations  and  other  plants  which 
belonged  to  the  late  Mrs.  (Joddard  of  The  Elms, 
Crawley,  Sussex,  where  the  sale  will  take  place 
on  the  21st  inst.  We  understand  that  catalogues 
can  be  obtained  from  the  auctioneers. 

The  Isle  of  Wight  Rose  Show.— 

This  will  take  place  at  Newport  on  June  28 
next,  and  a  fine  display  of  flowers  is  anticipated. 
That  enthusiastic  rosarian,  the  Rev.  G.  E. 
Jeans,  is  the  hon.  secretary,  Shorwell  Vicarage, 
Isle  of  Wight. 

Carnations  at  the  Temple  Show. 

In  our  report  of  the  Temple  Show  published  last 
week  we  omitted  to  mention  the  beautiful 
group  of  perpetual-flowering  and  Malmaison 
Carnations  staged  by  Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co. 
of  Enfield.  This  was  an  exceedingly  pretty 
arrangement,  baskets  filled  with  the  flowers 
being  suspended  from  semi-arches  and  festooned 
with  Smilax.  Then  large  vases  were  placed  on 
pedestals  and  shorter  ones  stood  beneath,  the 
whole  being  very  effective.  The  new  Black 
Chief,  King  Arthur  and  all  the  better  standard 
varieties  were  shown  in  good  condition. 

Rhododendrons     at     Regrent's 

Park. — The  annual  display  of  Rhododendrons 
arranged  by  Messrs.  John  Waterer  and  Sons, 
Limited,  of  Bagshot,  Surrey,  is  to  be  opened  this 
week  at  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's 
Park,  and  will  remain  on  view  throughout  the 
month.  This  exhibition  of  Rhododendrons  is 
always  well  worthy  of  inspection,  and  tickets  of 
admission  can  be  obtained  free  by  writing  to  the 
firm  at  the  address  given  above. 

Mr.  E.  H.  Wilson.— It  was  a  pleasure 
to  see  Mr.  Wilson  once  again  in  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society's  Hall,  after  his  third 
visit  to  China  for  the  purpose  of  collecting 
plants.  Mr.  Wilson  is  a  young  man  who  has 
proved  himself  worthy  of  the  trust  placed  in 
him  by  Messrs.  .James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited, 
and  Professor  Sargent.  He  is  worthy  of  all 
honour  ;  a  man  of  great  knowledge,  resource, 
and  possessing  the  great  virtue,  in  spite  of  his 
successes,  of  not  proclaiming  aloud  his  remark- 
able enterprise.  The  plants  he  has  collected  are 
in  many  gardens,  and  are  becoming  in  many 
instances  the  greatest  treasures  that  surround 
the  English  home. 

The  Kew  Guild  Dinner.— The  annual 

dinner  of  the  members  of  this  Guild  was  held  at 
the  Holborn  Restaurant  on  the  first  day  of  the 
Temple  Show,  Dr.  L.  C.  Burrell,  M.A.,  pre- 
siding. Previous  to  the  dinner  the  annual  meeting 
was  held,  about  thirty  members  being  present. 


The  chief  discussion  centred  round  the  resolution 
adoptedat  the  lastmeetingin  regard  to  the  Journal, 
for  which  it  was  stated  a  large  majority  of  the 
members  had  voted.  As  a  result  of  this  voting 
the  following  members  of  the  committee  decided 
to  resign  :  Messrs.  W.  Dallimore,  H.  Spooner, 
W.  Hales,  W.  N.  Winn  (secretary)  and  H.  H> 
Thomas,  the  treasurer.  It  was  decided  to  ask 
them  to  reconsider  their  decision,  but  in  the- 
event  of  their  not  doing  so,  Messrs.  Raffil, 
Hutchinson,  May  hew  and  Cole  were  asked  to  fill 
the  vacancies. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  net  responaibie  for  the   optntofu 
exrpreaiti  by  corretptndtnts. ) 


Exhibltingr  Roses.— The  time  of  year 
when  all  exhibitors  of  the  Queen  of  Flowers  look 
forward  with  anticipated  additions  to  their 
laurels  of  last  year  is  fast  approaching,  and  tO' 
assure  success  immediate  attention  must  be 
given  to  the  Rose  trees.  In  my  own  garden 
maggots  have  already  commenced  their  havoc 
upon  the  young  shoots,  and  are  easily  traced  by 
their  indentations  on  the  foliage  and  destroyed 
by  hand-picking.  Green  fly  will  also  soon  put- 
in  their  appearance,  and  must  be  destroyed  by 
frequent  use  of  special  mixtures  for  the  purpose. 
Thinning,  too,  is  another  important  point  which 
must  not  be  overlooked.  By  thinning  I  mean 
the  removal  of  all  weak  or  blind  shoots  ;  but 
from  experience  I  have  found  that  it  is  better  to 
do  this  at  different  periods,  otherwise  if  too- 
much  growth  is  removed  at  one  time  root  action 
is  liable  to  receive  a  violent  check.  Now  is  also 
the  time  to  see  that  our  equipment  for  the  wara 
of  the  Roses  is  adequate.  When  showing  under 
National  Rose  Society's  rules,  it  is  necessary  to- 
have  regulation-sized  boxes ;  so  when  one  is 
increasing  this  part  of  one's  equipment  it  is  only 
a  matter  of  forethought  to  have  the  correct- 
article,  assuming  one  is  sufficiently  ambitious  to- 
show  under  these  rules.  Particulars  of  measure- 
ments will  be  found  in  the  society's  schedule, 
which  may  be  obtained  from  the  hon.  secretary, 
Mr.  Edward  Mawley,  Rosebank,  Berkhamsted,. 
Herts.  For  protecting  blooms  against  the  fre- 
quent inclemency  of  the  weather  it  is  necessary 
to  use  shades,  and  for  this  purpose  West's  patent 
is  undoubtedly  the  best,  being  cheap,  lasting  . 
and  easy  to  manipulate.  The  price  is  Is.  each  or 
9s.  per  dozen,  which  includes  a  stick  half  an  inch 
square  and  4  feet  long.  If  it  is  difficult  to  obtain 
these  from  local  nurserymen,  they  can  be  procured 
from  any  of  the  leading  Rose-growers  complete 
and  ready  for  use.  Then  it  is  necessary  to  have 
tubes  for  the  boxes.  I  consider  the  Frank  Cant 
patent  is  far  away  the  best,  being  a  great  improve- 
ment on  any  other  I  have  ever  used.  These  tube* 
are  made  with  a  half-inch  flange ;  therefore  they 
will  fit  any  tube  hole,  and  are  held  in  position  by 
four  tacks.  The  blooms  are  thus  held  firm  and 
upright,  and  cannot  be  bruised  during  transit. 
Another  great  advantage  in  this  tube  is  that  it  is 
made  in  two  separate  cylinders;  the  inner  cylinder 
holds  the  water,  flower  and  label,  and  may  be 
raised  above  the  moss  4  inches  if  desired,  but  the 
stem  of  the  bloom  still  remains  the  same  depth  in 
the  water,  a  distinct  advantage  on  a  hot  morning. 
A  sample  tube  may  be  obtained  from  the  in- 
ventors, Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick  Rose- 
Gardens,  Colchester,  for  nine  penny  stamps, 
when  its  good  qualities  will  be  more  easily 
observed.  I  think  there  is  every  prospect  at 
present  of  a  good  Rose  season,  although  the- 
old  adage,  "  As  many  frosts  in  March  so  many 
in  May,"  is  proving  very  true  this  year. — 
Enthusiast. 

Cheiranthus    Harpup    Crewe.  — 

Herewith  I  send  you  two  flowers,  one  of  them  the 
common  (in  gardens)  Erysimum  cheiranthoides, 
said  to  be  wild  in  places  in  this  country,  and 
known  by  the  names  of  Treacle  Mustard  (Hooker, 


June  5,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


275 


"Students'  Flora,"  1878,  page  29)  and  alpine 
Wallflower.  The  other  is  a  plant  which  I  believe 
is  known  in  the  trade  as  Cheiranthus  Harpur 
Crewe.  I  had  the  plant  originally  some  forty 
years  ago  from  my  old  schoolfellow  and,  later, 
friend,  the  late  Rev.  H.  Harpur  Crewe,  and  have 
kept  up  the  stock  ever  since.  It  resembles  a 
small  double  yellow  Wallflower,  but  its  compact, 
dwarf,  bushy  habit,  distinct  and  much  fainter 
scent  and  smaller  flowers  have  always  caused  me 
to  doubt  it  being  a  form  of  Cheiranthus  Cheiri, 
and  I  am  now  convinced  that  it  is  a  double  form 
of  Erysimum  cheiranthoides. — A.  0.  W. 

Cotoneastep  angustlfolia.— I  think 

Mr.  Arnott's  experience  of  this  much  over- 
rated plant  is  quite  general.  A  specimen  was 
ordered  after  it  received  an  award  of  merit  and  was 
duly  planted  against  a  south-west  wall,  which  it 
soon  mounted  and  now  reaches  the  top,  which  is 
10  feet  high.  Very  late  last  summer  it  set  a 
considerable  number  of  berries  for  the  first  time. 
These  were  all  killed  by  the  frost  long  before 
they  were  fully  grown,  and  herein,  I  think,  lies  its 
uselessness  as  an  ornamental  wall  plant.  I  do 
not  think  it  will  set  its  fruits  early  enough  to 
ripen  before  frost  comes  and  destroys  them  ;  at 
any  rate,  if  it  is  to  be  of  any  value  in  this  part 
of  Gloucestershire,  it  must  be  planted  in  the 
moat  sheltered  spot  that  can  be  given  it.  We 
have  it  planted  on  an  east  wall  also,  but  here  all 
the  newly  formed  growth  has  been  entirely  killed 
by  the  late  severe  frost,  and  1  think  it  will  be 
quite  useless  in  such  a  position.  No  fault  can 
be  found  with  the  amount  of  growth  it  makes 
each  year,  as  this  has  been  at  the  rate  of  2  feet 
or  3  feet,  and  I  think  it  is  almost  too  early  to 
say  much  about  its  fruiting  capacity.  Probably 
when  a  little  of  its  exuberance  of  growth  has 
been  spent,  it  will  settle  down  to  fruiting  freely ; 
but  this  will  be  of  small  value  if  produced  too 
late  in  the  summer  to  ripen.  Of  course,  in  a 
mild  winter  it  would  no  doubt  ripen  well,  but  I 
fear  it  can  never  approach  Cratfegus  Pyracantha 
Lelandii  as  an  ornamental  wall  plant. — T.  A., 
Cirenoesier. 

Daffodils  grrowlngr  wild.— I  enclose 
a  photograph,  taken  by  myself  ten  days  ago,  of 
Daffodils  growing  wild  in  the  grounds  here. 
Seeing  one  in  a  recent  number  of  The  Garden 
has  made  me  think  you  might  care  for  it  for  your 
paper.  This  is  a  single  Narcissus,  and  our 
gardener  thinks  it  is  called  bicolor  Empress, 
though  to  me  it  seems  pretty  much  self-coloured 
and  a  most  delicate  bright  yellow.  The  grounds 
here  are  full  of  trees,  and  as  it  is  a  very  old 
place,  these  Daffodils  must  have  been  spreading 
for  years. — Margaret  F.  Smith,  The  Tair, 
Selkirk. 


Exhibition  in  1893,  when  it  eame  under  my  notice, 
and,  observing  its  splendid  qualities,  I  secured 
the  first  stock  sent  out  from  the  growers  and 
exhibited  it  the  following  year  at  one  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  spring  shows. 
This  year  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  had 
a  trial  of  forcing  Strawberries  at  Wisley,  and 
Royal  Sovereign  came  out  first  for  crop  and  good 
quality. 

I  now  come  to  the  newer  varieties  shown  in 
the  accompanying  coloured  plate.  Laxton's 
Cropper  was  introduced  in  lOOt,  and  is,  I  think, 
of  special  merit.  It  may  be  termed  an  improved 
Fillbasket,  as  it  has  the  cropping  qualities  of 
that  variety  but  is  of  a  darker  colour,  the  fruits 
more  solid,  and  the  quality  superior.  The  fruits 
may  be  termed  above  medium  size,  and  it  is  a 
splendid  midseason  variety  ;  it  should  prove  a 
good  one  for  market.  I  consider  it  one  of  the 
best  for  planting  out  in  frames,  as  it  is  such  a 
heavy  cropper,  and  even  the  small  late  fruits 
swell  up  freely. 

The  Bedford,  another  new  variety,  is  less 
known  than  its  merits  deserve  ;  it  must  not  be 
confounded  with  Bedford  Champion,  a  larger 
and  softer  fruit.  The  Bedford  is,  in  my  opinion, 
one  of  the  best  of  the  Laxton  introductions.  It 
is  a  midseason  variety,  and  claims  as  parents 
that  excellently  flavoured  Strawberry  Dr.  Hogg 
and  the  well-known  Sir  Charles  Napier.     It  has 


'^3if-R-i'i' 


COLOURED     PLATE 

PLATB    1S75. 


SOME    OF  THE    NEWER  STRAW- 
BERRIES. 

DURING  the  past  few  years  oon- 
1  siderable  additions  have  been  made 
I  to  these  fruits,  and  I  will  in  this 
'  article  note  some  of  the  newer 
varieties.  So  recently  as  May  18, 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
gave  an  award  of  merit  to  a  new  one  named 
George  Monro,  on  account  of  its  good  forcing 
properties.  As  shown,  it  was  certainly  an 
enormous  cropper,  and  evidently  one  that  comes 
to  maturity  very  quickly,  as  the  plants  referred 
to  had  not  been  hard  forced.  The  parents  were 
the  well-known  Royal  Sovereign  and  the  older 
but  good  Sir  Charles  Napier.  The  introduction  of 
the  popular  Royal  Sovereign  by  Messrs.  Laxton 
of  Bedford  was  an  immense  boon  to  growers,  as 
it  is  unequalled  for  forcing  and  general  culture, 
and  is  now  the  most  popular  Strawberry  grown. 
I  take  a  great  interest  in  this  variety,  because  it 
was  first  exhibited  at  the  Gardening  and  Forestry 


WTLD   DAFFODILS   IN   GRASS. 


the  rich  flavour  of  the  first  named  and  the 
splendid  colour  of  the  latter.  It  is  of  robust 
habit,  and  is  noted  for  its  splendid  cropping 
qualities. 

Doubtless  as  regards  flavour  the  new  Epicure, 
one  of  the  varieties  illustrated,  will  become  a 
general  favourite,  as  British  Queen  and  the  free- 
growing  Fillbasket  are  its  parents.  It  has 
always  been  the  aim  of  Strawberry  specialists  to 
get  the  British  Queen  flavour  with  better  growth, 
and  certainly  in  Epicure  this  has  been  achieved. 
The  fruits  are  firm,  medium  sized,  in  shape 
bluntly  conical,  and  the  plant  will  grow  where 
British  Queen  fails.  It  is  in  season  about  the 
same  time  as  the  older  favourite.  Pine  Apple, 
a  smaller  fruit,  will,  I  think,  find  favour.  This 
is  more  like  British  Queen  in  shape  than  the 
others,  but  is  very  distinct.  Connoisseur 
promises  to  be  a  good  fruit  of  the  Scarlet  Queen 
type,  and  Progress,  a  late  fruit,  will,  I  think,  be 
most  valuable  for  its  lateness  and  good  quality. 

As  regards  late  Strawberries,  no  one  who  has 
grown  Laxton's  Latest,  a  cross  between  Latest  of 
All  and  Waterloo,  will  deny  its  excellent  good 
qualities.  Givon's  Late  Prolific  is  a  variety 
that  was  given  an  award  of  merit  some 
years  ago  by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
for  its  good  quality  and  lateness  combined,  and 
it  still  holds  its  own.  The  parents  were  Waterloo 
and  Latest  of   All  ;    the   fruits    are    very  fine. 


dark  red,  wedge-shaped  and  firm.  My  remarks 
will  not  be  complete  unless  I  just  touch  upon 
the  newer  Perpetual  type.  With  these  and 
forced  fruits  we  can  now,  without  any  great 
effort,  have  ripe  Strawberries  from  March  to 
November,  and  the  Perpetuals  are  grown  at  a 
small  cost,  as  they  finish  well  in  the  late  autumn 
months  in  a  cold  frame  and  may  be  grown  close 
together,  as  the  growth  is  compact  and  they 
fruit  freely.  The  first  of  this  type,  St.  Joseph, 
a  smaller  fruit  than  the  newer  ones,  was  a 
remarkable  introduction,  and  even  now  is  worth 
room  in  all  gardens  for  a  late  summer  crop. 
There  is  now  St.  Antoiue  de  Padoue,  a  much 
larger  form  of  St.  Joseph,  and  therefore  more 
valuable.  It  is  a  grand  autumn  variety,  and  if 
the  plants  are  grown  for  succession,  by  picking 
off  the  earliest  blooms  and  being  well  attended 
to  as  regards  food  and  moisture  excellent  fruits 
may  be  had  in  the  open  from  August  to  Septem- 
ber, and  with  cold-frame  protection  much  later. 
Louis  Gauthier  is  excellent  ;  it  is  a  creamy 
white  fruit,  and  some  may  object  to  its  colour  ; 
but  it  is  well  flavoured  and  rich  for  a  late  fruit. 
A  new  addition  to  the  Perpetual  type  is  the 
Laxton  Perpetual  ;  this  is  very  distinct  and  a 
large  fruit  in  addition ;  indeed,  it  compares 
favourably  with  the  ordinary  summer  varieties. 
It  is  the  result  of  crossing  St.  Joseph  with  the 
large  Monarch,  and  the  result  is  a  wedge-shaped 
fruit,  deep  red  all  through  the  flesh  and  sweet. 

As  regards  culture,  much  better  results  follow 
when  the  plants  of  any  type  are  not  allowed  to 
occupy  the  soil  too  long,  and,  like  many  other 
things,  I  have  fovind  new  stock  a  great  gain  at 
times.  With  a  poor,  thin  soil  resting  on  gravel 
the  Strawberry  plant  soon  weakens,  and  in  such 
soil  I  had  a  much  better  return  from  what  may 
be  termed  annuals.  Only  one  crop  was  taken, 
but  if  labour  is  scarce  the  plants  may  be  given  a 
second  year.  By  making  beds  yearly  splendid 
fruits  resulted  ;  but  this  does  not  apply  to  all 
varieties,  some  of  the  Pine-flavoured  family  doing 
better  the  second  year,  also  those  which  are 
none  too  vigorous.  Deep  culture  and  ample 
food,  even  in  poor  land,  will  give  good  results  if 
such  as  Royal  Sovereign,  Cropper,  Reward  and 
Givon's  Late  Prolific  are  grown,  planting  good 
runners  early  and  not  growing  them  too  long  in 
one  place.  G.  Wtthbs. 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN. 


A    SB 

A 


THE  GRAPE  VINE  AS  A  HARDY 
WALL  CLIMBER  OUT  OF  DOORS. 
SHORT  note  on  the  above  subject  was 
written,  giving  details  of  how  to 
form  the  border,  plant,  &c.,  in  The 
Garden  of  November  28,  1908  (page 
.580).  At  the  same  time  a  promise 
was  made  to  revert  to  the  subject 
again,  giving  details  of  the  spring  and  summer 
culture  and  pruning.  It  was  then  recommended 
that  the  small  Vine  (of  one  stem)  should  be 
pruned  back  to  within  three  buds  of  its  base ; 
these  buds  have  now  started  into  growth.  The 
best  form  of  training  for  the  outdoor  Vine,  I 
think,  is  that  commonly  known  as  the  "gridiron" 
pattern,  as  shown  in  the  sketch  on  page  276. 
Two  only  of  the  basal  buds  are  wanted  to  form  a 
foundation  for  a  tree  of  this  description  ;  but  it  is 
always  well  to  leave  three  at  the  winter  pruning, 
in  case  of  an  accident  to  one,  until  the  two 
permanent  shoots  which  emanate  from  the  lower 
buds  are  safely  secured,  when  the  third  may  be 
rubbed  off  and  dispensed  with  as  having  com- 
pleted its  function.  These  two  shoots  on  either 
side  of  the  Vine  will,  if  all  goes  well,  each  make 
growths  from  3  feet  to  *  feet  or  more  in  the  course 
of  the  season.  When  winter  pruning  time  comes 
round  (early  in  November),  each  of  these  shoots 
should  be  pruned  back  to  within  2J  feet  of  its 
base.  The  shoot  from  the  bud  at  the  extreme 
end  of  the  Vine  after  pruning  must  be  trained 


276 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[June  5,  1909. 


in  a  horizontal  direction,  for  the  purpose  of 
extending  the  Vine  laterally  as  far  as  is  desired. 
I  think  that  six  of  the  vertical  rods  are 
sufficient  for  one  Vine.  These  should  be  2J  feet 
apart.  A  single  Vine  will  then  in  time  cover  a 
wall  space  12J  feet  in  width.  If  the  wall  is 
more  than  12  feet  high,  it  will  be  better  to 
confine  each  Vine  to  four  vertical  rods  instead  of 
six. 

The  shoot  which  will  emanate  from  the  second 
bud,  the  one  immediately  next  to  the  extreme 
end  bud  before  mentioned,  must  be  trained  up- 
right in  order  to  form  the  vertical  rods  of  the 
Vine.  These  upright  rods  at  the  winter  pruning 
must  each  be  pruned  back  to  within  2  feet  of 
their  base  (meaning  from  the  bud  from  which 
they  emanated  in  the  spring),  and  the  same 
process  carried  out  each  year  until  the  allotted 
space  is  completely  furnished  with  fruit-bearing 
wood.  Having  endeavoured  to  explain  how  the 
framework  of  a  Vine  trained  in  this  way  may  be 
formed,  a  word  may  now  be  said  regarding 
the  spring  and  summer  treatment  of  the  Vine, 
which,  if  attended  to  in  time,  is  most  simple 
and  entails  little  or  no  labour  in  the  carrying 
out. 

The  side  shoots  which  are  growing  out  of  the 
vertical  rods,  and  which  are  the  shoots  which 


THE     GREENHOUSE 


T 


THE   ROSE   GARDEN. 


II 


1 


ifih 


bear  the  Grapes,  should  be  1  foot  apart.  The 
bunch  of  Grapes  on  these  shoots  generally  follows 
the  second  or  third  leaf  immediately  the  shoot 
has  made  one  leaf  beyond  the  bunch  ;  then  the 
shoot  must  be  stopped  (meaning  pinching  off  the 
end  of  the  shoot  with  the  finger  and  thumb). 
This  stopping  of  the  extended  growth  of  the  shoot 
will  result  in  side  shoots  being  formed,  which 
are  called  laterals.  These  in  their  turn  should 
be  stopped  at  their  second  leaf  and  all  similar 
subsequent  growth  which  may  be  formed  during 
the  summer.  Timely  attention  to  this  work 
prevents  the  Vine  being  overcrowded  and 
exhausted  by  useless  leaf-growth,  and  helps  to 
throw  vigour  into  the  crop  of  Grapes.  If  time 
permits,  a  copious  syringing  of  the  Vine  about 
4  p.m.  after  each  warm  day  will  do  much  to 
keep  it  in  good  health  and  also  free  from 
red  spider,  which  is  its  greatest  enemy.  It 
should  receive  an  occasional  watering  in  dry 
weather  during  summer,  say,  once  every  fort- 
night or  three  weeks ;  and  another  important 
point  to  observe  is  the  placing  of  a  mulch  of 
rotten  manure  4  inches  deep  over  the  surface  of 
the  soil  as  far  as  the  roots  extend.-  This  prevents 
the  soil  from  drying  too  quickly  by  evaporation, 
and  is  a  fertile  medium  for  the  new  fibrous  roots 
which  form  in  the  summer  in  such  large  numbers 
to  root  into  and  which  help  so  greatly  in 
nourishing  the  Vine.  Owen  Thomas. 


THREE  CLIMBING  GROUNDSELS 
OR  SENECIOS. 
HE  genus  Senecio  is  a  very  extensive 
one,  there  being  upwards  of  ftCXl 
species.  These  vary  greatly  in 
character,  among  them  being  annuals, 
perennials  and  shrubs,  many  of  which 
require  a  stove  or  greenhouse  tem- 
perature for  their  successful  cultivation  in  this 
country.  Three  of  the  most  interesting  and 
ornamental  members  of  the  genus,  all  of  which 
are  climbers  and  flower  freely  during  winter  and 
early  spring,  are  enumerated  below.  The  best 
known  of  these  is 

Senecio  auriciUalissimus. — This  plant  has  been 
cultivated  in  our  gardens  for  about  twenty  years. 
It  is  a  native  of  British  Central  Africa,  and  was 
first  discovered  by  Mr.  J.  T.  Last  in  1887.  The 
plant  is  a  very  easy  one  to  grow,  thriving  in  a 
loamy  soil  to  which  a  little  leaf-mould  and  sand 
should  be  added.  The  leaves  are  bright  green 
and  the  flowers  golden  yellow.  Of  climbing 
habit,  the  plant  is  moderately  vigorous  in  growth, 
I  thus  forming  a  very  suitable  pillar  plant,  and  also 
for  hanging  baskets,  as  it 
is  slender  in  habit.  By 
some  nurserymen  the 
plant  is  called  Cineraria 
aurioulatissima,  the 
flowers,  except  in  colour, 
resembling  the  stellate 
Cinerarias.  It  is  readily 
propagated  by  cuttings 
or  seeds.  A  figure  is 
given  in  the  Botanical 
Magazine,  t.  7731.  The 
Cape  or  German  Ivy  is 

S.      macroglossus.       a 
native  of  South   Africa 
and     introduced     to 
this  country  in  1868.     It 
is  an  evergreen  climber 
with  dark  glossy  green. 
Ivy-like  leaves.  The  pale 
yellow     flowers,     which 
average    2^     inches    to 
.3  inches  in  diameter,  are 
produced  more   or    less 
throughout     the     year. 
The   first    plants   which 
flowered  in  this  country 
were  raised  from  seeds, 
but  the  usual  method  of 
propagation  is    by  means    of    cuttings,    which 
root   readily   in   sandy   soil.     The   soft-wooded 
slender  stems,  the  Ivy-like  foliage  and  the  com- 
paratively large  flowers  are  very  beautiful  when 
the  plant  is  trained  up  a  trellis  or  along  the 
rafters  of  a  cool  greenhouse.     The  least  known 
of  the  three  species  is 

/S.  canalipes. — This  is  very  vigorous,  attaining 
a  height  of  20  feet  or  more  in  one  year,  thus 
being  very  useful  for  large  conservatories.  By 
pinching  out  the  points  of  the  shoots  the  plant 
can,  however,  be  kept  of  sufficient  dimensions 
for  a  small  house.  The  lobed,  heart-shaped 
leaves  are  rich  green  in  colour,  the  yellow  flswers 
being  freely  produced  on  terminal  corymbs, 
which  are  usually  large  and  freely  branched. 
Individually  the  flower-heads  are  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  diameter.  The  plant  continues 
to  flower  practically  throughout  the  winter. 
Cuttings  obtained  from  the  smaller  side  growths 
root  readily  at  almost  any  season.  "  H.  P.," 
writing  in  The  Garden  some  time  back,  doubted 
if  this  species  was  in  cultivation  in  this  country, 
except  at  Kew.  I  have  heard,  however,  that 
there  is  a  fine  specimen  on  the  front  of  the 
house  at  Tregothnan,  Cornwall  ;  and  when  at 
Messrs.  Hugh  Low  and  Co.'s  Bush  Hill  Park 
Nursery  some  nine  months  ago  I  saw  the  plant 
there. 

KUU.  A.    OSBORN. 


THE    LYON    ROSE. 

IN  the  future  this  Rose  will  doubtless  be 
looked  upon  as  the  commencement  of  a 
new  group,  that  is,  the  mingling  of  the 
Briar  hybrids  with  the  Hybrid  Teas.  We 
have  it  on  the  authority  of  the  raiser, 
M.  Pernet-Ducher,  that  the  Lyon  Rose  is 
the  result  of  a  cross  between  the  Hybrid  Tea 
Mme.  Melanie  Soupert  and  an  unnamed  variety, 
itself ,  the  direct  oft'apring  of  Soleil  d'Or.  I  cannot 
say  we  have  gained  a  hardy  Rose  in  this  cross, 
as  one  would  have  thought  by  a  mingling  of  the 
very  hardy  Briar  hybrid  Soleil  d'Or,  for  plants 
of  the  Lyon  Rose  imported  last  autumn  have 
behaved  most  strangely,  the  growths  turning 
quite  black,  doubtless  the  result  of  frost.  This 
will  be  a  serious  hindrance  to  the  extensive 
planting  one  would  have  liked  to  carry  out  with 
such  a  beautifully  coloured  Rose.  There  is  this 
to  be  said  about  the  variety  under  notice  :  I 
believe  if  it  were  earthed  up  and  its  growths  out 
back  hard  in  the  autumn  we  should  find  the  base 
of  the  plants  little  the  worse  for  the  winter 
frosts. 

I  expect  to  see  some  grand  flowers  this  summer 
from  maiden  plants.  Those  who  saw  the  fine 
group  of  Roses  of  his  own  raising  which 
M.  Pernet-Ducher  exhibited  at  the  Franco- 
British  Exhibition  will  remember  how  grandly 
Lyon  Rose  stood  out  among  them  all,  the 
marvellously  taking  colour  of  shrimp  pink  being 
admired  by  the  numerous  visitors.  The  flowers, 
which  are  large,  full  and  with  broad  petals,  are 
generally  borne  singly,  but  occasionally  two  or 
three  appear  on  the  same  shoot.  The  buds  are 
tipped  coral  red,  with  a  chrome  yellow  base. 
The  half-open  flowers  are  salmon  pink,  shaded 
with  chrome  yellow  at  the  base,  toning  to  shrimp 
pink  at  the  tips,  a  colour-combination  that  is 
certain  to  appeal  to  all  classes. 

In  planting  this  Rose  one  must  afford  it  plenty 
of  space,  for  its  growths  are  somewhat  spreading 
in  habit.  It  cannot  fail  to  make  a  beautiful 
free-headed  standard,  the  spreading  nature  of 
its  growths  aiding  in  this,  which  may  be 
still  further  assisted  by  pruning  to  outward- 
looking  eyes.  One  of  the  most  neglected 
details  of  cultivating  standard  Roses  is  a 
fearless  thinning  out  of  the  centres  of  the 
heads  of  the  trees,  which  not  only  hinders 
the  perfect  development  of  the  outer  growths, 
but  is  a  harbour  for  many  insect  pests.  When, 
therefore,  we  have  a  variety  that  is  naturally 
spreading,  this  relieves  us  to  some  extent  of  the 
work  of  such  thinning. 

E\idently  Lyon  Rose  has  "caught  on"  in 
America,  for  they  are  already  asking  for  it  by 
the  thousand.  But  this  is  characteristic  of  our 
friends  on  the  other  side.  When  a  thing  is  good 
they  "go"  for  it  without  any  hesitation,  and 
with  their  system  of  raising  plants  from  own 
roots  under  glass  it  is  not  difficult  to  quickly 
get  up  a  large  stock.  I  should  say  Lyon  Rose 
will  be  a  fine  market  variety ;  certainly  it 
will  be  a  superb  Rose  for  pot  culture.  Last 
season  on  pot-grown  plants  the  grand  flowers, 
almost  as  perfect  as  a  Camellia,  were  much 
admired. 

I  intend  to  try  Lyon  Rose  as  a  wall  plant, 
believing,  as  I  do,  that  it  will  be  an  excellent 
variety  for  that  purpose,  and  if  grown  on  a  south 
or  west  wall  its  growths  will  be  assured  of 
a  thorough  ripening.  Being  sweetly  scented  it 
should  become  a  general  favourite,  for  I  find  that 
next  to  colour  this  important  attribute  is  more 
valued  than  mere  form  by  all  lovers  of  the 
Rose,  excepting  exhibitors,  who  apparently 
look  upon  size  and  form  as  more  essential 
than  vigour  or  fragrance.  Messrs.  Merry- 
weather  of  Southwell,  Notts,  hold,  I  believe, 
a  large  stock  of  it,  and  the  well-formed  flower 
shown  in  the  illustration  was  grown  in  their 
nurseries.  P. 


June  5,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


277 


CURRENT    WORK    AMONG    THE 
ROSES. 

Roses  have  grown  bo  rapidly  the  last  few  days 

that  thinning  the  shoots  of  Hybrid  Perpetuals 

is  necessary  and  should  be  carried  out  at  once. 

There  is  a  trite  saying,  that  "  No  man  should 

hoe  his  own  Turnips,"  and,  perhaps,  this  might 

apply  to  thinning  Rose  shoots.     One  is  terribly 

afraid  of  overdoing  it ;    but,    as  a  rule,  more 

bushes  and  standards  are  spoilt  each  year  by  the 

want  of  judicious  thinning  of  the  young  growths 

than     is     generally     supposed.      Those    young 

growths  in    the  centre  of  the  plant  that  point 

inwards  should  be  rubbed  off,  and   where   two 

or  more   shoots  start   from   one   eye,    only    one 

should  be  allowed  to  remain. 

Before     thinning,     be     very 

careful     that    those    shoots 

which  are    to  be  preserved 

are  free   from   insect  pests, 

for   often    a   fine   growth   is 

cheeked  by  these  little  black 

pests  eating  away  the  point. 

Some  growers  imagine  that 

the  more  growths  there  are 

the    stronger    will    be    the 

blossoms.      This  is   a   great 

mistake.     If  we  confine  the 

work   of    the    roots    to    the 

development   of   five   or    six 

good    shoots,    the    resulting 

bloom  will  be  far  superior. 

Not  only  is  this  so,  but  we 

check  the  ravages  of  insect 

pests  by  depriving   them  of 

their    biding  -  places.       Tea 

Roses,  being  more  difi^use  in 

growth,   scarcely    need    the 

same    thinning    as    Hybrid 

Perpetuals  and  some  of  the 

Hybrid  Teas  ;   but  in  their 

case    an    over-abundance  of 

shoots  is  inadvisable. 

Caterpillars  must  be  dili- 
gently sought  after  now,  and, 
when  found,  given  a  squeeze. 
The  trees  should  be  gone  over 
two  or  three  times  a  day. 
To  spray  the  foliage  with 
arsenate  of  lead  wash  is  the 
best  poisonous  article  to 
employ.  No  time  should  be 
lost  in  using  it.  It  can  be 
obtained  in  paste  form  known 
as  Swift's  Arsenate  Paste,  or 
if  a  quantity  of  Roses  need 
spraying  it  can  be  com- 
pounded as  follows :  Arsenate 
of  soda  (98  per  cent.),  loz.  ; 
acetate  of  lead  (98  per  cent. ), 
2joz.  ;  and  water,  10  gallons. 
Place  the  two  in  water  and 
stir  until  both  are  dissolved, 
then  add  the  rest  of  the 
water  and  apply  with  a  fine 
sprayer. 

The  various    beetles    and 
other  pests  that  hide  in  the 
ground  can  be  kept  at  bay  by  using  Kilogrub  ; 
but    frequent    stirring   of   the   soil   so    as   not 
to  aflford  them  any  hiding-place  is  also  recom- 
mended. 

Green  fly  has  already  made  its  appearance, 
especially  on  wall  Roses,  and  the  pest  needs  to 
be  checked  at  once  or  the  foliage  will  be  sadly 
marred.  Dr.  Williams  has  given  in  "  The 
Rosarian's  Year  Book  "  the  following  excellent 
recipe  for  its  extermination,  and  this  he  has 
found  also  good  for  mildew  :  Take  lib.  of  Jeyes's 
Cyllin  Soft  Soap,  boil  with  twice  the  quantity  of 
water  and  stir  well  until  dissolved.  Take  3oz. 
of  the  syrupy  liquid  and  add  to  1  gallon  of  water  ; 
apply  with  a  fine  sprayer. 

Liquid  manure  should  be  given  now  to  wall 
Roses  and  those  on  fences.  Very  forward 
Rambler  Roses  may  also  have  some.     Wherever 


frame,  and  finally  placed  outdoors  plunged  in 
ashes  for  the  summer.  If  intended  for  forcing 
early  they  should  be  repotted  in  June.  Teas 
and  Hybrid  Teas  are  repotted  after  having 
produced  their  second  crop  of  flowers.  P. 


TREES    AND   SHRUBS. 


brick"  tank' 


buds  are  showing,  liquid  manure  should  be 
applied  ;  only  do  not  have  it  too  strong  at  first. 
If  unable  to  procure  oow-manure  and  soot  to 
make  the  liquid,  guano  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to  a 
gallon  of  water  is  very  helpful.  There  are  also 
several  excellent  preparations  on  the  market, 
which  are  all  mixable  in  water,  and  this  is  one 
of  the  best  methods  of  feeding  Roses. 

Preparations  should  be  made  for  a  supply  of 
liquid    manure  in   readiness    when    the    plants 

require  it,  which  is  usually  when  the  tiny  flower-  a     tj  a  -dt?    iirTT  t  /^nr 

buds  are  visible.     To  well-established  trees  and        ,„  ^    RARE     WILLOW, 

bushes  good  strong  liquid  may  be  given  with        (Salix  baetlonica  vas.  bamulis  auseis.) 
much  benefit.      Old  casks   or    galvanised    iron    The  ordinary  Weeping  Willow  (Salix  babylonica) 
tanks  come^in  useful  for  storing  the  liquid,  or  a    is  a  well-known  and  deservedly  popular  tree  for 
'""'"''"'■"'■''"made  in  the  ground.      A  barrowful    planting'in  the  vicinity  of  water,  no  tree  being 

of  more  graceful  outline  or 
better  suited  for  the  pur- 
pose. Its  grace  of  habit  is 
perhaps  most  apparent  when 
there  are  trees  in  the  vicinity 
of  stifier  aspect,  the  contrast 
being  helpful  to  both.  At 
all  times  of  the  year,  even 
in  the  depth  of  winter,  its 
peculiarly  light  outline  com- 
mands attention,  while  it  is 
difiicult  to  imagine  anything 
more  beautiful  in  early 
spring,  when  the  pendulous 
wand  -  like  branches  are 
clothed  with  the  bright 
green  of  the  bursting  leaves. 
The  variety  under  notice 
has  not  been  planted  to  any 
great  extent,  but  it  is 
worthy  of  consideration 
when  a  selection  of  water- 
side trees  is  being  made, 
for,  in  addition  to  possessing 
the  merits  of  the  type,  it 
has  the  advantage  of  having 
golden  bark,  which  is  very 
showy  after  the  fall  of  the 
leaves.  It  has  also  another 
recommendation,  for  it  is  a 
male  form,  and  the  slender 
yellow  catkins  are  very  con- 
spicuous in  April.  Like  other 
Willows,  cuttings  a  foot  long 
planted  out  of  doors  in 
autumn  root  freely,  and 
strong  plants  are  quickly 
formed.  One  point  in  the 
culture  of  Weeping  Willows 
which  demands  some  con- 
sideration is  the  tying  up  of 
the  leading  branches  for  a 
few  years  while  the  speci- 
mens are  young.  This 
enables  the  tree  to  form  a 
long,  erect  stem  which  adds 
very  considerably  to  its 
future  beauty.  If  this  is 
not  done,  a  bush  -  like 
appearance,  rather  than 
tree  size,  is  frequently  the 
result.  In  addition  to 
growing  them  by  the  water- 
side these  Weeping  Willows  may  be  planted 
with  advantage  in  other  places,  particularly 
in  situations  where  the  soil  is  naturally  rather 
damp.  W.  D. 


A  SINGLE  BLOOM   OF  THE  LYON  ROSE. 

of  cow-manure  and  a  bushel  of  soot  will  make 
splendid  liquid,  and  may  be  given  undiluted 
to  old  and  strong  plants,  but  the  weakly  ones 
must  be  cautiously  dealt  with  ;  merely  colouring 
the  plain  water  will  suffice  at  first. 

Artificial  manures  make  good  liquid  if  used 
with  discretion  ;  but  I  would  warn  all  amateurs 
to  be  very  careful  how  they  use  the  powerful 
fertilisers.  House  slops  are  very  good  if  poured 
into  drills  and  the  latter  covered  up  with 
the  soil. 

Pot  Roses  as  they  go  off  bloom  should  be 
slightly  pruned  over,  and  if  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas, 
Chinese  or  Polyanthas,  they  may  be  grown  on 
to  give  another  crop.  Such  plants  should  be 
given  a  good  soaking  with  liquid  manure. 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  not  a  success  a  second 
time.     The  plants  should  be  placed  in   a  cold 


RHODODENDRON    SOULIEI. 

As  recorded  on  page  270,  this  Rhododendron  is 
quite  a  distinct  and  pleasing  species  and  a  native 
of  Western  China,  where  it  is  found  at  an  altitude 
of  from  9,000  feet  to  11,000  feet.  As  will  be 
seen  in  the  illustration  on  page  278,  the  flowers 
are  flattish  and  borne  in  a  rather  close  head,  the 
plant  also  being  of  a  dwarf  character.  It  was 
shown  by  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons, 
Limited,  Chelsea,  before  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  on  the  18th  ult.,  when  it  received  a  first- 
class  certificate. 


278 


THE     GARDEN 


[June  5,  1909. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


THE    HARDY    PRIMULAS. 

(Continued  from  page   24-J.) 

IN  the  following  enumeration  of  Primula 
species  in  cultivation  the  nomenclature  of 
Pax  has  been  followed. 
P.  acaulis  (P.  vulgaris).— The  common 
Primrose  of  our  woods  and  grassy  banks 
is  so  familiar  to  everyone  that  no  descrip- 
tion is  necessary.  It  is  spread  over  Central 
Europe  and  the  Mediterranean  region,  and 
has  given  rise  to  many  garden  varieties, 
of  which  mention  might  be  made  of  the 
variety  csrulea  with  purplish  blue  flowers, 
double  white,  double  yellow  and  double  rose. 
The  variety  Sibthorpii,  with  rose-coloured  flowers, 
comes  from  the  Caucasus.  All  the  single  forms 
may  be  increased  by  means  of  seed  sown  as  soon 
as  it  is  ripe,  while  all  may  be  propagated  by 
division  of  the  root,  either  directly  after  they 
have  finished  flowering  or  during  the  autumn. 

P.    algida.—This    marsh-loving   species    is    a 
native  of   the  Caucasus  and  is  nearly  allied  to 
our    native    P.    farinosa.       The    finely   toothed 
obtuse   leaves   are,  however,    larger,    while   the 
flowers  are  more  showy  and  of  a  rich   violet- 
purple  colour.     It  is  somewhat  rare  in  gardens, 
as  it  generally  dies  after  flowering  and  does  not 
set  seed  freely.     It  grows  best  in  a  half-shady 
position,  planted  in  a 
mixture   of    peat   and 
loam,  with  abundance 
of  moisture. 

P.  Albionii.  —  This 
little  gem  from  the 
Alps  of  Piedmont 
flowers  in  March  and 
April,  and  is  a  very 
neat  and  compact- 
growing  plant.  It  is, 
however,  not  an  easy 

plant  to  grow  in  this 

country,  owing  to  the 

dampness      of      our 

winters.    While  loving 

moisture  at  the  roots, 

the    leaves    are    very 

susceptible  to  wet.     It 

requires  to  be  planted 

between    stones    in  a 

vertical     position,     so 

that  water  drains  off 

readily,  or  a  position 

might  be  chosen  below 

an   overhanging   rock. 

The    delicate     rosy 

purple  flowers,  with  a 

pale  centre,  are  borne 

singly  on  short  stalks, 

quite  close  to  the  some- 
what hairy  leaves, 
orming  a  cushion-like 

tuft.      It  is  a   choice 

little    plant     for     the 

select  rook  garden, 

where     it    can    have 

special     attention. 

Gritty    loam     is     the 

most  suitable  soil. 

P.  anicejia  is  a  hand- 
some species  from  the 

Caucasus  that  was  in- 
troduced   many   years 

ago,   but   is   probably 

not  now  in  cultivation. 

It   has    rugose  leaves 

and    heads    of    good- 

sized    violet  -  coloured 

flowers  and  likes  strong 

rich  soil. 

P.     Auricula. — The 

typical  Auricula  of  the 

Alps  is  widely  spread 

over  the    mountain 


ranges  of  Central  Europe.  In  its  several  forms  it 
is  a  well-known  plant,  but  the  true  wild  plant  is 
more  rare.  This  has  somewhat  fleshy  leaves, 
glaucous  in  appearance  and  mealy,  the  sweet- 
scented  yellow  flowers  being  borne  in  a  dense 
umbel  on  stems  4  inches  to  5  inches  in  height. 
It  is  a  limestone  plant,  and  may  be  successfully 
grown  in  the  rock  garden  planted  between  large 


y-^i^:^ 


Y  ^ 


THE   NEW   BHODODKNDRON    SOL'UEI.     (Natural  size.     See  page  -.'7?.) 


stones,  with  the  rosettes  of  leaves  in  a  vertical 
position.  The  plants  should  be  wedged  in  the 
crevices  tightly  with  some  smaller  stones  and  stiff, 
loamy  soil,  and  does  best  with  an  eastern  or 
western  exposure,  where  it  will  get  a  fair  amount 
of  sunshine.  One  of  the  parents  of  the  popular 
garden  Auricula,  this  species  has  a  robust  con- 
stitution and  good  seed  readily  germinates.  The 
seed  should  be  sown  in  pots  or  pans  in 
a  cold  frame  in  autumn,  or  in  a  little 
heat  in  spring.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings 
are  large  enough  they  should  be  potted 
off  singly  in  small  pots,  using  a  mixture 
of  loam  and  sand,  with  plenty  of  broken 
limestone  mixed  with  it ;  or  the  seedlings 
may  be  pricked  out  several  together  in 
pans,  to  be  potted  off  later  as  they  get 
large  enough.  A  strong-growing  form 
of  this  species  is 

P.  Auricula  var.  ciliata  (syn.  P. 
Balbisii). — It  is  found  in  the  Dolomites 
and  the  southern  and  eastern  limestone 
Alps  of  Austria,  and  is  distinguished 
from  the  type  by  its  deep  yellow,  scent- 
less flowers  and  leaves  edged  with 
grandular  hairs.  There  is  also  an  absence 
of  the  powdery  appearance  so  prominent 
in  P.  Auricula.  P.  A.  var.  marginata  is 
also  another  form,  with  leaves  having  a 
conspicuous  white  margin.  It  is  an 
unfortunate  name,  as  it  is  apt  to 
be  confused  with  the  totally  distinct 
species  of  that  name, 
P.  marginata. 

P.  auriculata  comes 
from  the  alpine  regions 
of  the  Caucasus  and 
requires  plenty  of  mois- 
ture within  reach  of 
the  roots.  Closely 
allied  to  P.  algida,  it 
chiefly  differs  in  having 
a  longer  corolla  tube. 
It  has  light  purple 
flowers. 

P.  Balbisii.  —  See 
Auricula  var.  ciliata. 

P.  calycina.  —  Set 
glaucescens. 

P.  capitata.  —  One  of 
the  latest  of  all  the 
Primulas  to  flower. 
It  belongs  to  the 
denticulata  section, 
but  differs  from  that 
plant  in  the  time  of 
flowering,  as  well  as  in 
habit.  P.  capitata  is  a 
biennial,  and  seed 
should  be  sown  early 
in  autumn.  As  it  is 
rather  tender,  the 
seedlings  should  be 
kept  in  a  cold  frame 
during  the  winter, 
planting  them  out  in 
spring.  A  cool,  shady 
place  s  hould  be 
selected,  where  they 
would  get  plenty  of 
moisture.  Good  loam, 
peat,  sand  and  leaf-soil 
will  suit  it  very  well. 
The  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  a  compact, 
globular  head  on  stems 
6  inches  or  8  inches 
high,  the  colour  being 
a  deep  violet  blue, 
thickly  covered  with 
white,  mealy  powder 
on  the  lower  parts 
outside.  It  is  a 
native  of  the 
Himalayas. 

W.  Irving."^ 
(To  he  continued.) 


June  5,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


279 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

Vases  fob  Exhibiting. — One  of  the  minor 
troubles  of  the  cultivator  of  Sweet  Peas  for 
exhibition  arises  when  he  has  thoroughly 
mastered  the  task  of  production  and  can  be 
fairly  sure  of  the  development  of  excellent 
blooms.  He  has  the  sprays — in  what  receptacle 
shall  thej'  be  shown  V  The  vases  of  the  National 
Sweet  Pea  Society  place  all  on  an  equality  ;  but 
they  are  far  from  being,  in  themselves,  artistic, 
and  it  is  extremely  seldom  that  they  are  used 
where  the  grower  is  allowed  to  choose  for  himself. 
Let  a  good  word  be  said  for  what  is  known  as  the 
"Ideal."  This  vase  was  designed  and  patented 
by  the  redoubtable  Mr.  T.  Jones  of  Ruabon, 
and  it  is  now  offered  for  sale  at  most  reasonable 
prices  by  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay.  It 
is  made  of  the  best  quality  British  glass,  and  has 
a  detachable  metal  base  which  ensures  firmness 
when  placed  on  the  stage.  This  is  desirable,  as 
all  exhibitors  have  had  experience  of  the  stage 
which  moves  about  freely  without  the  slightest 
provocation.  The  removal  of  the  base  piece 
enables  packing  to  be  done  compactly  and 
securely,  and  the  risk  of  breakage,  which  has 
hitherto  militated  strongly  against  the  general 
use  of  glass  vases,  is  reduced  to  a  minimum. 
Mr.  Jones  utilised  these  vases  exclusively  last 
season  and  won  prizes  to  the  value  of  upwards 
of  £100  sterling  ;  but  readers  are  reminded  that 
to  secure  the  full  value  of  the  vases  at  the  show 
it  is  imperative  that  they  shall  be  artistically 
arranged  with  flowers  of  the  finest  substance, 
richest  colour  and  splendid  size. 

Watering. — Questions  are  constantly  being 
asked  by  amateurs  and  others  as  to  whether  it  is 
preferable  to  use  soft  water  or  water  from  the 
mains,  and,  in  the  event  of  the  latter  being  the 
only  liquid  at  command,  whether  it  is  necessary 
to  use  any  softening  agent  prior  to  application 
to  the  plants.  There  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the 
desirability  of  soft  water,  and  where  there  is  not 
an  abundant  supply  at  command  much  good  may 
be  done  by  exposing  tap  water  to  the  weather  in 
a  wide-mouthed  receptacle  ;  but  even  then  the 
supply  is  almost  sure  to  run  out,  as  large  quanti- 
ties are  needed  for  other  plants  as  well  as  Sweet 
Peas.  It  is,  however,  common  to  find  that  tap 
water  must  be  used  exclusively  and  that 
softening  is  impossible.  In  these  circumstances 
the  grower  should  guard  against  directing  the 
liquid  immediately  to  the  roots.  The  best  system 
with  which  I  am  familiar  is  to  form  drills  about 
9  inches  from  the  base  of  the  plants  on  each  side 
of  the  row  and  into  these  put  the  water,  filling 
and  refilling  until  it  is  certain  that  an  abundant 
supply  to  soak  well  down  beneath  the  roots  has 
been  given.  If  this  method  is  adopted,  the 
chances  of  chilling  the  roots  and  thus  more  or 
less  seriously  checking  the  progress  of  the  plants 
is  reduced  to  a  minimum.  In  uo  case  must 
water  be  given  until  the  soil  is  approaching  dry- 
ness, and  after  an  application  the  necessity  for 
more  can  be  reduced  by  the  judicious  use  of  the 
hoe  or  by  mulchings  with  short  material ;  in  the 
latter  case,  when  a  further  supply  must  be  given, 
the  material  should  be  drawn  back  from  the 
drills  and  replaced  again  when  the  task  is  com- 
pleted. The  same  course  is  necessary  with 
manure. 

Evening  Hosing  and  Syringing. — When  the 
weather  is  excessively  hot,  it  is  not  always  easy 
to  keep  the  stems  of  the  plants  in  the  most  satis- 
factory condition  for  producing  fine  flowers  on 
stout  stems  of  reasonable  length,  and,  further, 
the  blooms  seem  to  lack  substance  and  colour. 
Here  will  lie  the  advantage  of  hosing  or  syring- 
ing— the  former  for  preference — during  the 
evenings  following  intensely  hot,  dry  days.  This 
will  keep  the  stems  in  splendid  form,  and  the 
probabilities  are  that  the  plants  will  develop  far 
superior  blooms  to  those  which  were  not  sub- 
jected to  such  a  course  of  treatment.  The 
grower  must  exercise  his  judgment  as  to  the 
frequency  of  application,  and  should  bear  in 
mind  that  it  is  easy  to  do  as  much  harm  as  it  is 


good  by  the  practice.  These  forcible  washings 
will  have  the  further  substantial  advantage  of 
rendering  it  impossible  for  green  fly  to  secure  a 
hold  on  the  plants.  Spencer. 


KAISING  WALLFLOWERS  FROM 
SEED. 
Wallflowers  are  almost  indispensable  to  all 
lovers  of  spring  flowers,  and  the  garden  would 
be  difiicult  indeed  to  find  where  a  few  at  least  of 
these  charming  plants  are  not  grown.  Unfortu- 
nately, many  plants  have  suffered  from  the 
severity  of  the  weather  during  the  past  winter. 
In  some  cases  this  is  unavoidable  ;  but  if  care  is 
taken  to  secure  strong  specimens  for  planting 
out  in  the  autumn,  and  protection  is  provided 
during  severe  frosts  and  cold  winds,  the  losses 
will  be  considerably  diminished. 

Some  growers  defer  the  sowing  of  Wallflower 
seed  until  the  middle  or  end  of  June  ;  they  aver 
that  plants  raised  at  this  season  withstand  the 
winter  better  than  the  larger  plants  which  are 
raised  in  the  month  of  May.  This  late  sowing 
may  be  advisable  in  some  eases.      Should  there 


firmly,  level  with  a  rake  and  plant  strong- 
growing  varieties  1  foot  apart  each  way. 
Smaller  varieties  may  be  planted  9  inches  apart. 
Early  raised  plants  require  plenty  of  space ; 
overcrowding  must  be  avoided. 

Later-raised  plants  may  be  planted  out  some- 
what closer.  Plant  firmly  and  anply  copious 
waterings  in  the  absence  of  rain.  Where  several 
varieties  are  grown,  each  should  be  carefully 
labelled,  so  that  no  mistake  occurs  when  finally 
planting  out  in  the  beds  or  borders.  Ply  the  hoe 
frequently,  both  to  keep  down  weeds  and  also 
to  prevent  a  hard,  caked  surface  on  the  bed. 
Beyond  this  the  plants  will  require  little  atten- 
tion, and  nice  strong  specimens  should  be  avail- 
able for  planting  when  required  in  the  autumn 
months.  C.  Rose. 


AN 


AQUATIC    AND 
NURSERY. 


MARSH 


There  is  always  an  attraction  in  a  visit  to  a 
nursery,  particularly  when  that  nursery  or  any 


phloxes,    irises  and   SPIBJEAS   in   messes.    K.  WALLACE   AND   CO.'S  AQUATIC  NnSSBRY. 


be  no  ground  vacant  on  which  to  transplant  the 
seedlings  raised  in  May,  then  put  off  the  sowing 
until  June,  and  by  the  time  these  plants  are 
ready  to  remove  from  the  seed-beds  some  of  the 
early  crops  will  be  removed  from  the  kitchen 
garden  and  more  space  be  available.  Should 
no  doubt  exist  as  to  the  question  of  room,  sow 
in  May  and  transplant  as  soon  as  the  seedlings 
are  large  enough  to  handle.  This  may  seem  a 
trivial  matter  to  some  ;  but  unless  the  plants  are 
grown  well  and  these  apparently  small  matters 
attended  to,  the  results  may  be  anything  but 
satisfactory.  It  is  the  robust,  well-developed 
plants  that  withstand  the  winter  and  produce 
the  finest  heads  of  flower. 

Prepare  shallow  drills  for  the  seed,  sow  thinly 
and  evenly,  level  the  bed  with  the  rake,  and  if 
the  soil  is  dry  apply  water  through  a  fine-rosed 
watering-pot.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants 
appear,  stir  the  soil  between  the  rows  with  the 
Dutch  hoe  and  remove  all  weeds  from  among 
them.  When  they  are  sufficiently  advanced  to 
bear  handling,  prepare  a  suitable  bed  and  trans- 
plant them  without  delay.  It  allowed  to  get 
overcrowded  in  the  seed  -  bed  they  become 
weakened.      Tread  down   the   soil  of   the    bed 


portion  of  it  is  devoted  to  specialising  in 
the  culture  of  any  one  class  of  plant,  as 
happens  to  be  the  case  in  Our  illustration  of  a 
portion  of  Messrs.  R.  Wallace  and  Co.  's  Bog  and 
Aquatic  Nursery  at  Colchester.  The  photo- 
graph was  taken  in  August,  and  shows  the  pro- 
fusion of  bloom  and  efieot  that  the  water  garden 
can  be  made  to  produce  during  that  month.  In 
the  foreground  is  a  mass  of  Phlox  decussata 
planted  among  Japanese  Iris,  which,  at  that  time, 
had  lost  their  first  beauty.  To  the  right  is  a 
group  of  Spirasa  gigantea,  and  towards  the  centre 
Astilbe  chinensis  and  A.  Silver  Sheaf.  In  the 
distance  are  Lythrums,  the  soft-hued  Spinea 
venusta,  Epilobiums,  Arundos,  more  Astilbes  and 
Spiraeas,  Act^as,  Cimicifugas  and  numerous 
other  beautiful  subjects,  all  revelling  in  the  rich 
bog-land.  Then  there  are  streams  and  ponds 
(not  visible  in  the  picture),  the  true  aquatics. 
Water  Lilies,  Arrow  -  heads,  Villarsias,  &c. 
Such,  too,  is  the  arrangement  of  the  plant- 
ing that  the  whole  area  seems  replete  with 
natural  combinations  of  form  and  colour.  This 
is  a  distinct  relief  after  the  serried  lines  and 
orderly  array  one  is  inclined  to  associate  with  a 
nursery. 


280 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[June  5,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  (4ARDEN.— The  present  is 
about  the  best  time  of  the  whole  year 
for  sowing  Wallflowers  to  provide 
plants  for  flowering  next  spring.  If 
sown  earlier  the  plants  are  apt  to 
become  too  large  and,  consequently, 
suffer  from  frost  and  wet  the  following  winter ; 
while,  if  the  sowing  is  delayed  much  beyond  this 
period,  the  plants  do  not  make  sufficiently  bushy 
specimens.  Their  culture  is  remarkably  easy. 
Draw  drills  about  1  inch  deep  and  1  foot  apart, 
and  sow  the  seeds  thinly  in  these ;  give  a  good 
watering,  and  then  cover  in  with  fine  soil. 
Should  the  weather  remain  dry  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  give  other  waterings,  as  it  is  essential  to 
ensure  ijuiok  germination  and  unchecked  growth. 
When  the  seedlings  are  about  3  inches  high,  they 
should  be  pricked  off  about  9  inches  apart  in  rows 
1  foot  asunder,  where  they  will  make  splendid 
specimens  for  planting  in  beds  and  borders  next 
October.  Some  good  varieties  are  Harbinger, 
Blood  Red,  Eastern  Queen,  Vulcan,  Belvoir 
Castle  and  Sutton's  Yellow  Bedding.  Canterbury 
Bells  may  also  be  sown  now  and  treated  precisely 
as  advised  for  the  Wallflowers.  Any  bedding- 
out  not  yet  finished  must  be  completed  without 
further  delay,  following  the  general  instructions 
given  last  week.  Sweet  Peas  that  were  until 
recently  at  a  standstill  are  now  making  growth 
freely  and  mounting  the  sticks  in  a  vigorous 
manner.  ( Jreen  fly  will  probably  soon  appear  on 
them,  and  it  must  be  checked  at  the  outset  by 
spraying  with  one  of  the  many  excellent  insecti- 
cides advertised  in  The  (Jakden. 

Vegetable.  Oarden. — Everything  in  this  depart- 
ment is  showing  the  effect  of  the  prolonged 
drought  experienced  during  May,  and  conse- 
quently growth  of  most  things  is  dwarfer  than 
usual.  Peas  that  are  flowering  or  swelling  pods 
must  not  be  allowed  to  go  short  of  moisture  at 
the  roots,  or  the  crops  are  certain  to  be  at  least  a 


X. — A   TYPICAL   SPECIMK.S    OF    THE    UMBRELLA 
PALM. 


partial  failure.  If  they  were  sown  in  shallow 
trenches  as  advised  on  this  page  in  the  spring, 
it  will  now  be  a  simple  matter  to  water  them  with 
a  certainty  that  all  supplied  will  find  its  way  to 
the  roots  of  the  plants  for  which  it  is  intended. 
A  good  soaking  should  be  given  when  watering 
is  done,  three  gallons  to  each  yard  run  of  row  not 
being  too  much.  All  growing  plants  must  be 
frequently  hoed  for  the  double  purpose  of  killing 
weeds  and  maintaining  the  surface  soil  in  a  fine 
condition  and  so  prevent  rapid  evaporation. 
Lettuces  and  the  various  (Jreens,  except  those 
intended  for  spring  use,  will  be  much  benefited 
by  half  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  finely  crushed  soda  being 
sprinkled  around  each  plant  about  every  ten  days, 
afterwards  watering  it  in,  unless  rain  falls  soon 
after  it  is  applied. 

Fruit  Garden. — Newly  planted  trees  in  this 
department  should,  if  the  weather  has  been 
dry  for  some  time,  be  given  a  thorough  soaking 
with  water,  after  which  a  4 -inch  thick  mulch  of 
half-rotted  manure  may  be  placed  over  the  roots, 
and  so  prevent  the  moisture  evaporating. 
Currants  and  Gooseberries  are  swelling  freely, 
and  many  of  the  latter  have  by  now  been 
gathered.  Select  some  fruits  from  each  bush, 
and  so  thin  the  whole  crop  rather  than  take  all 
from  a  few  bushes  and  allow  the  others  to 
remain  thick.  Raspberries  are  throwing  up 
suckers  freely,  and  good  will  be  done  by  promptly 
pulling  out  those  which  it  is  clearly  evident  by 
their  position  will  not  be  needed  for  cropping 
next  year. 

G/reenhouse  and  Frames. — Many  stock  plants, 
and  particularly  young  ones  being  grown  on 
from  seed,  will  need  repotting  now,  and  the 
work  must  not  be  long  delayed.  It  is  far  better 
with  most  subjects  to  repot  frequently  than  to 
use  pots  very  much  larger  ;  a  small  move  and 
often  is  a  good  motto.  All  hard-wooded  plants, 
such  as  Azaleas,  spring-flowering  Heaths  and 
hardy  shrubs,  that  were  forced  will  now  be 
making  new  growth  freely,  and  it  is  advisable  to 
submit  these  plants  to  more  air,  gradually 
increasing  the  supply  so  that  a  check  is  not 
given,  but  so  that  the  shoots  formed  are  robust. 
At  the  end  of  the  month  they  may  with  advantage 
be  plunged  to  the  rims  of  their  pots  in  ashes  in  a 
partially  shaded  place  outdoors,  there  to  remain 
until  early  autumn,  when  they  must  be  brought 
into  the  greenhouse  again.  H. 


ROOM  PLANTS  AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 
The  culture  of  plants  in  rooms  is  a  subject  that 
is  very  seldom  dealt  with,  and,  in  consequence, 
much  ignorance  is  displayed  by  those  who  desire 
to  make  good  use  of  them.  There  are  many 
points  that  demand  consideration  if  any  real 
success  is  to  attend  the  efforts  of  those  who  wish 
to  do  what  is  right  in  this  matter. 

The  state  of  the  atmosphere  is  frequently 
responsible  for  the  loss  or  deterioration  of  many 
plants,  and  yet  this  is  a  condition  that  may  be 
very  easily  remedied.  Rooms  in  which  gas  is 
burned  are  bad  for  most  plants,  yet  there  are  a 
few  that  appear  to  be  quite  impervious  to  its 
evil  influence.  Those  who  light  their  rooms  by 
the  aid  of  electricity  or  oil  have  a  great  advantage 
over  those  who  burn  gas  for  the  same  purpose. 
Readers  will,  therefore,  appreciate  the  fact  that 
plants  in  small  rooms  have  less  chance  of 
succeeding  than  those  reared  in  large  rooms, 
where  the  atmosphere  must  of  necessity  be  less 
impure. 

Light  is  also  an  important  factor  in  the  culti- 
vation of  plants  in  rooms.  For  decorative  effect 
the  plants  are  frequently  disposed  in  positions 


far  removed  from  the  windows,  where,  if  allowed 
to  remain  long  in  the  same  position,  they 
quickly  begin  to  sicken  and,  unless  removed  to 
more  suitable  conditions,  die.  Therefore,  where 
it  is  necessary  to  arrange  plants  in  these  unsatis- 
factory positions,  from  a  health  point  of  view 
they  should  be  shifted  from  time  to  time,  so  that 
they  may  recuperate  and  regain  their  former 
vigour.  Although  plenty  of  light  is  advocated 
for  room  plants,  they  must  be  shaded  from  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun.  The  foliage  will  soon 
become  browned  and  uninteresting  unless  these 
precautionary  measures  are  taken. 

Where  plants  are  arranged  in  the  window, 
the  beginner  may  ask,  What  is  the  best  aspect 
to  select?  In  summer  a  north  window  is  un- 
doubtedly the  best,  as  there  is  always  good 
light  without  there  being  any  risk  of  damage 
from  the  sun.  In  windows  having  either  an 
eastern  or  western  aspect  these  plants  do  well ; 
but  in  a  south  window  provision  for  shading  the 
plants  must  be  made  if  the  results  are  to  be 
really  satisfactory.  Again,  room  plants  do  not 
like  draughts.    In  regard  to  watering,  how  often 


2. — THE    LARtiB    RIBBON    FERN    (PTERIS 
.M  AJOR). 

the  question  is  asked.  Should  I  water  my  room 
plants  once  a  week  or  oftener?  Just  a  little 
thought  should  instinctively  provide  the  proper 
reply.  Room  plants,  like  all  others,  should  be 
watered  when  they  need  it,  and  this  is  when  the 
soil  is  dry  or  becoming  dry.  To  maintain  the 
plants  in  health  they  must  be  watered  often 
enough  to  keep  the  soil  damp.  Not  infrequently 
the  space  between  the  surface  soil  and  the  rim 
of  the  pots  is  so  small  that  one  application  of 
water  will  only  suffice  to  moisten  the  upper 
portion  of  the  soil  ;  for  this  reason  and  to  ensure 
the  soil  being  moistened  throughout,  they 
should  be  watered  two  or  three  times  in  succes- 
sion. When  very  dry,  room  plants  should  be 
stood  in  a  vessel  of  water  until  the  soil  is  1 
thoroughly  moistened.  Tepid  water  ought  | 
always  to  be  used,  although  some  growers  may 
be  disposed  to  use  quite  cold  water  in  the 
summer. 

The  foliage  of  room  plants  should  be  cleansed 
from  time  to  time.  Dust  will  accumulate,  and 
if  the  plants  are  to  do  well  and  create  the 
pleasing  effect  they  are  so  well  able  to  do,  they 
should  he  sponged  over  rather  frequently,  using 
a  soft  sponge  and  warm  water  for  the  purpose. 
When  warm,  gentle  rains  are  falling,  such  plants 
may  be  stood  outdoors  with  advantage  ;  but  we 
would  make  the  more  tender  Ferns  an  excep- 
tion to  this  rule.     So  far  as  general  culture  is 


June  5,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


281 


3. — THE     "FRENCH     FKRN  "    OF    THE    MARKET, 
ASPLENIUM   EULEIFERUM. 


oonoerned,  I  have  in  the  foregoing  notes  said  all 
that  is  necessary  under  this  heading.  I  will, 
therefore,  deal  with  just  a  few  of  the  more 
popular  plants  that  are  especially  suitable  for 
room  decoration,  portraying  their  character  and 
giving  particulars  respecting  them. 

The  Umbrella  Palm,  known  to  botanists  by 
the  name  of  Kentia  or  Howea,  is  one  of  the  most 
graceful  and  beautiful  of  all  the  Palms,  and  is  in 
frequent  request  for  indoor  decorations.  Two  of 
the  more  popular  kinds  are  Kentia  (or  Howea) 
belmoreana  and  K.  fosteriana,  both  of  which  in 
the  greenhouse  attain  a  great  height  and  large 
proportions.  Fig.  1  represents  a  small  plant  of 
one  of  the  Umbrella  Palms  growing  in  a  pot 
5  inches  in  diameter.  Readers  who  may  have  a 
plant  that  needs  repotting  should  pot  up  into  a 
larger  pot  in  spring,  using  a  compost  made  up  of 
equal  parts  of  loam  and  peat  and  a  little  coarse 
silver  sand,  well  mixing  these  ingredients. 
See  that  the  crocks  are  carefully  arranged,  so 
that  the  drainage  may  be  good. 

Fig.  2  represents  the  well-known  and  ex- 
tremely popular  Pteris.  Of  this  subject  there  are 
many  species,  and  there  are  numerous  varieties 
of  most  species.  The  variety  represented  in 
Fig.  2  is  known  as  Pteris  major,  commonly 
described  as  the  Ribbon  Fern.  It  is  of  the 
ordinary  type,  and  has  many  very  pretty  crested 
varieties,  each  of  which  is  largely  grown  and 
easily  acquired.  The  Pterises  are  usually  re- 
potted in  March  and  April,  and  revel  in  a 
compost  that  is  made  up  of  equal  parts  of  leaf- 
mould,  loam,  peat  and  sand.  To  maintain  the 
plants  in  health,  they  should  be  watered  freely 
in  the  growing  period.  Some  of  the  more  in- 
teresting varieties  are :  Pteris  serrulata  (Spider 
Fern)  and  its  variety  P.  s.  oristata,  P.  tremula 
(Trembling  Fern)  and  its  variety  P.  t.  smithiana. 
P.  Mayii  and  P.  Wimsettii  are  also  charming 
plants. 

The  Asplenium  is  another  beautiful  subject, 
and  its  many  species  and  varieties  are  well  suited 
for  the  purpose  under  notice.  Fig.  3  represents 
Asplenium  bulbiferum,  which  is  largely  grown 
for  market.  This  plant  is  usually  repotted  in 
April  in  a  compost  of  equal  parts  of  loam,  peat, 
leaf-mould,  sand  and  old  mortar  rubbish,  all 
well  mixed  together.      The  plants  divide  quite 


Another  fairly  hard  and  useful  room  plant  is 
the  Aspidium.  We  portray  in  Fig.  4  an  example 
of  the  Holly  Fern,  which  is  known  to 
botanists  by  the  name  of  Aspidium  (or  Poly- 
stiohum)  lonehitis.  The  crowns  may  be  divided 
or  the  plant  repotted  in  April  or  later,  and  a 
suitable  compost  should  comprise  equal  parts  of 
loam,  peat,  leaf-mould  and  coarse  silver  sand. 
In  dry  weather  this  subject  needs  to  be  watered 
freely.  I  hope  in  a  subsequent  issue  to  give 
particulars  of  other  equally  suitable  plants  for 
room  decoration.  D.  B.  C. 


HOW  TO  OBTAIN  COLOUR  IN  PEACHES. 

A  HIGHLY  coloured  Peach  or  Nectarine  has  a 
much  better  appearance  than  a  badly  coloured 
one.  Moreover,  a  rich  colour  denotes  high 
flavour,  especially  in  varieties  which  are  natu- 
rally and  when  grown  to  perfection  highly 
coloured.  I  well  remember  taking  a  dish  of  six 
Peaches  of  the  variety  Royal  George  to  a  large 
provincial  show.  The  fruits  were  grown  on  a 
tree  in  a  vinery  and  were  staged  in  competition 
with  fifteen  other  dishes  of  Peaches.  My  fruits 
were  awarded  first  prize,  and,  of  course,  I  was 
greatly  elated  in  consequence.  While  speaking 
to  one  of  the  judges  afterwards,  he  said,  ' '  I 
noticed  that  dish  of  Peaches  directly  I  entered 
the  tent  and  at  once  examined  them."  He 
praised  them  a  good  deal ;  they  were  staged  on 
the  central  table  almost  in  front  of  the  tent 
entrance.  Peaches  and  Grapes  are  somewhat 
difiicult  to  grow  in  the  same  structure  ;  but,  by 
the  way,  I  may  mention  that  I  was  awarded  a 
silver  medal  at  an  International  exhibition  in 
London  for  Grapes  grown  in  the  same  house  as 
these  Peaches.  I  know  that  many  amateurs 
are  obliged  to  grow  several  different  kinds  of 
fruits  in  the  same  structure  very  often,  and  I 
refer  to  the  success  I  met  with  in  order  to 
encourage  such  persons  to  persevere  and  attain 
success  also.  I  will  briefly  state  now  how  I  got 
such  a  grand  colour  in  my  Peaches.  At  about 
this  time  of  the  year,  while  the  fruits  were  very 
small,  I  made  the  final  thinning  and  preserved 
those  specimens  which  were  well  placed — that  is, 
fully  exposed  to  the  sunshine  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  day.  When  they  were  not  much 
larger  than  Barcelona  Nuts,  the  young  Peaches 
were  almost  as  brown  as  those  Nuts  owing  to  the 
direct  exposure  to  the  sunshine.  As  time  passed 
the  colour  deepened,  and  when  maturity 
approached  the  deep  crimson  we  so  much  admire 
in  Peaches  was  there.  This  high  colour  cannot 
be  obtained  by  full  exposure  late  in  the  season  ; 
it  must  be  from  the  fruit's  infancy.  In  addition 
to  full  exposure,  abundance  of  air  must  be 
admitted  in  suitable  weather.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Bedding-oct. — This  work  must  be  attended  to 
now  without  cessation  until  it  is  completed. 
Having  put  out  the  hardier  kinds  of  plants,  the 
cultivator  must  devote  his  time  to  the  planting 
of  the  more  tender  kinds,  although  it  is  a  wise 
plan  to  avoid  putting  in  any  plants  simply 
because  they  look  very  beautiful  now  if  they 
will  not  thrive  and  continue  to  do  well  during 
the  summer  months.  A  hardy  plant  that  will 
withstand  the  atmosphere  of  a  town  is  decidedly 
better  than  one  which,  charming  at  the  present 
time,  will  lose  its  freshness  and  probably  half 
the  leaves  by  midsummer — a  few  weeks  after 
the  plants  are  put  out.  It  is  then  too  late  to 
replace  the  unsatisfactory  specimens  with  suit- 
able ones.  When  buying  plants,  choose  those 
which  have  a  rather  bronzed  or  weatherbeaten 
appearance  in  preference  to  the  more  attractive 
green-looking  examples. 

UNsniTABtE  Plants. — The  following  kinds  of 
plants  ought  not  to  be  used  except  in  the  best 
parts,  where  the  atmosphere  is  fairly  clear : 
Alternanthera,  Zinnias,  Chilian  Beet  (grown 
chiefly  in  the  flower  garden  on  account  of  its 
beautifully  coloured  leaves),  Coleuses,  Mesem- 
bryanthemums,  Iresines,  tricolor  Geraniums, 
Verbenas,  Cannas,  Castor  Oil  Plants  (Ricinus 
Gibsonii),  Zea  japonica  (the  striped  or  variegated 
Maize)  and  Acacias.  These  are  all  very  beautiful 
plants,  and  when  grown  to  perfection  they  look 
charming  in  a  garden  ;  but  where  they  only  just 
exist,  then  they  make  a  garden  look  worse  than 
it  would  with  bare,  unfilled  borders.  Now,  I 
have  given  a  short  list  of  plants  which  are 
unsuitable,  and  I  am  quite  sure  that  readers  of 
The   Garden  who  possess  town  gardens    and 


wish,  as  all  do,  to  make  them  beautiful  will 
appreciate  a  list  of  suitable  kinds  of  plants.  The 
following  is  a 

List  of  Suitable  Kinds. — Begonias  (especi- 
ally the  tuberous  ones),  strong-growing  varieties 
of  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  Calceolarias,  Fuchsias, 
Gazanias,  Ageratum,  Lobelia,  Marguerites  (more 
especially  the  white  -  flowered,  as  in  shaded 
borders  the  yellow  -  flowered  does  not  bloom 
freely).  Nasturtiums  and  single  Petunias 
for  dry  borders  and  hot  corners.  Tropjeolum 
Mrs.  Clibran  (yellow),  Vesuvius  (crimson)  and 
coccinea  elegans  (scarlet)  are  a  very  fine  trio,  and 
soon  make  a  brilliant  display  in  the  poor  soils  in 
many  town  gardens.  Then  we  have  Cerastium 
tomentosum  and  Centaurea  candidissima  to  give 
a  supply  of  silver-leaved  foliage,  Koniga  varie- 
gata  to  form  a  dense  carpet  under  a  few  dot 
plants,  or  for  a  neat  edging  to  borders.  Golden 
Feather  supplies  the  yellow  edging  and  blue 
Lobelia  the  blue  edging.  Portulaca  grandiflora 
is  a  splendid  plant  for  dry,  sunny  borders 
beneath  windows,  and  it  blossoms  freely. 
French  and  African  Marigolds  and  the  pretty 
Tagetes  signata  pumila  are  very  suitable  for 
growing  in  poor  soils  also.  Phlox  Drummondii, 
Stocks  and  Asters,  and  Pansies  and  Violas  ought 
to  be  freely  grown,  and  hardy  annuals  from 
seeds  sown  in  the  borders  where  the  plants  are 
to  blossom. 

How  TO  Plant. — Sometimes  the  plants  after 
being  put  out  and  watered  do  not  prove  very 
satisfactory  if  the  soil  is  in  a  dry  state  at  the 
time.  The  reason  is  because  the  water  given 
does  not  reach  the  roots  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
enable  them  to  get  a  good  hold  upon  the  soil, 
owing  to  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  latter. 
Where  the  soil  is  very  dry,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  give  a  thorough  soaking  of  water  during  the 
evening  prior  to  the  day  when  planting  is  to  be 
done.  Then  the  soil  will  be  in  a  nice  condition 
as  regards  moisture,  and  if  water  be  given  to 
the  newly  planted  borders  immediately  the 
work  is  finished  the  plants  will  grow  without 
experiencing  any  check,  and  so  quickly  get 
established  and  fill  up  the  borders. 

Newly  Planted  Shuubs. — The  soil  gets  dry 
in  the  course  of  a  few  days  at  this  season,  and 
in  the  absence  of  rain  water  must  be  applied  to 
the  roots  freely  by  hand  ;  also  it  would  be  well 
to  syringe  the  foliage,  thoroughly  wetting  both 
this  and  the  stems  every  evening  during  rainless 
days.  Further  assistance  may  be  given  to  such 
specimens  by  putting  on  a  mulch  or  top-dressing 
of  rotted  manure  and  turfy  loam  mixed.  A 
layer  2  inches  thick  would  keep  the  surface  of 
the  soil  in  a  moist  state,  and  it  is  so  essential 
that  such  a  condition  of  the  soil  be  maintained 
in  order  to  induce  the  free  growth  of  new  roots. 

Roses. — Newly  planted  Roses  must  be  treated 
in  a  similar  way  ;  if  the  soil  is  allowed  to  get 
dry  around  the  roots,  the  young  shoots  will  be 
very  small  and  also  the  flowers.  Avon. 


^  ^^: 

iSnmM^^^     ^'^ 

«>- 

I^M  i  '^  \ 

> 

SK%;* 

IHnM^      .iimm^i^i 

4. — ONE  OF  THE   HOLLY   FERNS  (ASPIDlnMS).| 


282 


THE     GARDEN. 


[June  5,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


M 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fkcits  Under  Glass. 
ELONS. — Keep  the  roots  of  these 
when  the  fruits  are  ripening  a  little 
more  dry  and  afford  more  air,  so 
that  the  best  flavour  may  be 
obtained.  Remove  useless  shoots, 
and  do  not  allow  the  fruits  to  hang 
when  onoe  they  are  ripe  if  there  are  more  than 
can  be  used.  Remove  them  to  the  fruit-room 
and  place  them  on  some  rather  soft  material. 

Later  Houses.— II  the  plants  are  growing  in 
small  borders,  keep  the  roots  well  supplied  with 
moisture,  top-dress  frequently,  using  good,  rather 
heavy  loam  and  a  little  artificial  manure.  Keep 
the  temperature  70°  by  night  to  85"  by  day 
with  sun,  and  if  the  glass  goes  up  to  90°  after 
syringing  in  the  afternoon  it  will  help  them 
along.  Another  batch  of  plants  should  be  raised 
for  later  supplies.  If  planted  early,  say,  the 
middle  of  July,  the  plants  should  fruit  in  Sep- 
tember and  the  beginning  of  October,  which, 
excepting  for  special  purposes  and  where  the 
houses  provided  are  very  suitable,  is  late  enough 
for  the  production  of  good  Melons. 

Vines. — Madresfield  Court :  If  these  have  a 
tendency  to  crack  at  the  time  they  commence  to 
colour,  allow  a  little  air  on  the  houses  night  and 
day.  Do  not  close  up  with  too  much  moisture. 
Keep  the  roots  at  all  times  sufficiently  watered 
to  prevent  the  skins  of  the  berries  from  losing 
their  elasticity,  otherwise  as  the  pulp  swells  the 
berries  are  almost  sure  to  split. 

Late  Houses. — Thinning  the  berries  will  need 
early  attention.  Alioantes  and  others,  if  allowed 
to  get  at  all  large,  will  prove  exceptionally  diffi- 
cult to  thin.  The  berries  of  Alicante,  being  oval, 
may  be  left  a  little  thicker  than  some  of  the 
round  varieties.  Be  careful  when  thinning  to 
remove  the  seedless  berries,  which  may  be  dis- 
tinguished by  their  light  appearance.  Stop 
lateral  growths,  tie  down  shoots  and  keep  a 
watch  for  insects.  When  tying  see  that  a  strong 
piece  of  naffia  is  employed  just  behind  the  bunches, 
especially  if  large. 

Flower  Garden. 

Callas. — These  may  be  planted  out  on  good 
land  containing  plenty  of  manure.  Plant  them 
18  inches  apart  and  tread  the  soil  about  the 
roots  firm.  If  the  stock  is  to  be  increased, 
divide  some  of  the  largest,  slightly  disentangle 
the  roots  and  water  well  if  needed  in  dry 
weather.  Salvias,  Eupatoriums,  Solanums  and 
several  of  the  kinds  required  for  winter  flowering 
may  be  successfully  planted  out,  then  lifted  and 
repotted  in  the  middle  of  September.  Put  in 
nuttings,  if  not  done  already,  of  some  of  the  best 
and  most  useful 

Geraniums  for  winter  flowering.  Those  already 
struck  may  need  more  room,  and  should  be 
potted  on  in  good  soil. 

Chri/santhemums. — These  must  be  given  ample 
room  and  an  open  position  to  obtain  the  best 
results.  At  the  final  potting  use  good  loam 
and  a  little  bone-meal,  with  enough  grit,  leaf- 
mould  or  well-decayed  manure  to  make  a  good 
mixture.  Stake  them  early  to  prevent  breakage, 
and  pay  strict  attention  to  the  removal  of  side 
shoots  and  growths  generally. 

Pot  Eases. — When  these  have  done  blooming, 
if  necessary  repot  them,  using  a  good  soil.  Before 
repotting  see  that  the  whole  ball  of  soil  is  well 
moistened,  and  remove  a  good  portion  of  the  old 
soil  from  the  ball ;  a  few  of  the  longest  roots 
may  be  shortened,  and  use  the  pots  about  the 
same  size,  well  drained  and  perfectly  clean.  The 
plants  can  be  stood  in  cold  frames  for  a  time  and 
then  plunged  in  ashes  in  the  open. 


Primulas. — When  large  enough,  prick  them 
ofi'  into  pans  well  drained  and  filled  with  a  sandy 
compost  consisting  of  loam,  leaf-mould  and  grit. 
Keep  the  plants  in  a  greenhouse  temperature 
and  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  but  shade 
from  the  strong  sun. 

Campanula  pyramidalis. — Pot  these  on  before 
they  get  stunted  in  the  small  pots  and  give  them 
liberal  treatment.  Those  coming  into  bloom 
feed  well,  and  do  not  allow  them  to  suffer  for 
the  want  of  water.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Habdt  Fruit  Department. 

SxRAvraERRiBS. — The  work  among  these  just 
now  is  important,  and  the  success  or  otherwise 
of  the  crop  depends  greatly  thereon.  Weeding 
and  hoeing  the  surface  soil  should  be  done 
several  times  successively  in  dry  weather,  after 
which  mulching  of  some  kind  may  be  applied, 
both  to  keep  the  fruit  clean  and  to  combat  the 
ill  effects  of  drought,  should  the  present  atmo- 
spheric conditions  continue.  Where  obtainable, 
straw  is  the  best  material  for  mulching,  and 
often  that  which  has  done  duty  in  the  stables 
has  perforce  to  be  used.  This,  thrown  into  a 
heap  and  turned  occasionally  to  destroy  any 
seeds  it  may  possibly  contain  and  to  rid  it  of  its 
unpleasant  aroma,  is  a  good  substitute  for  the 
unsoiled  article.  Early  varieties  upon  south 
borders  will  now  be  in  bloom,  and  as  there  is  the 
prospect  of  this  being  much  in  excess  of  require- 
ments, timely  thinning  of  the  trusses,  and  later 
of  the  fruit,  upon  those  retained  will  consider- 
ably accelerate  the  growth  and  maturity  of  a 
portion  of  the  crop. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Disbudding  must  be 
attended  to  according  to  the  advancement  of  the 
shoots,  but  it  is  not  advisable  to  act  too  severely 
in  this  until  genial  weather  and  free  growth 
clearly  indicate  which  are  best  to  leave,  as  after 
the  recent  cold  winds  blistered  foliage  is  sure  to 
be  more  or  less  in  evidence.  Badly  placed  fruits 
may  be  removed  at  once,  and  thinning  out  of  others 
where  very  thickly  placed  will  benefit  those  left. 

Apricots. — These  being  the  earliest  of  hardy 
fruits  require  timely  attention  being  paid  to 
stopping  the  shoots,  which  should  be  done  while 
yet  brittle  and  easily  severed  by  the  hand.  This 
is  best  carried  out  piecemeal,  commencing  at  the 
highest  part  of  the  trees  and  gradually  working 
downwards,  thus  equalising  the  flow  of  sap  to 
all  parts. 

Pears  grown  as  cordons  should  also  have  the 
topmost  shoots  stopped  in  good  time,  while  if 
time  permits  many  of  the  weaklings  may  with 
advantage  be  broken  off  cleanly. 

Plums  appear  to  have  plenty  of  fruits  set,  but 
owing  to  the  irregularity  of  these,  whereby  one 
or  two  fruits  in  a  cluster  swell  freely,  the  others 
falling  off,  thinning  should  not  be  done  until  this 
critical  stage  is  past. 

Forcing   Houses. 

Melons. — When  the  earliest  fruits  have  attained 
full  size  and  are  nicely  netted,  the  use  of  stimu- 
lants must  be  discontinued,  but  clear  water 
equal  to  the  maintenance  of  health  and  vigour 
in  the  foliage  be  given.  To  ensure  flavour,  less 
atmospheric  moisture,  more  air  and  sufficient 
warmth  in  the  pipes  to  cause  free  circulation  of 
this  are  essential.  At  this  season  the  fruits 
ripen  very  quickly,  and  the  first  signs  of  cracking 
around  the  stalks  should  be  taken  as  the  signal 
that  removal  from  the  plants  must  not  be  long 
delayed,  as  the  ripening  process  will  proceed 
equally  as  well  in  a  cool  room,  without  any  risk 
of  disfigurement. 

Successional  Plants  will  require  copious 
supplies  of  water  at  the  roots,  which  may  be 
surface-dressed  with  loam  and  bone-meal  from 
time  to  time.  Ventilate  early  in  clear  weather 
to  prevent  injury  to   foliage,   and  close  in  the 


afternoon  while  the  sun  has  considerable 
power  upon  the  house,  using  moisture  freely, 
but  avoid  as  much  as  possible  wetting  the  stems 
near  the  bases.  Should  canker  appear,  a  little 
powdered  lime  will  often  arrest  its  progress  if 
applied  in  time. 

Pits  and  Frames  recently  cleared  of  bedding 
plants  may  be  turned  to  profitable  account 
during  the  summer  and  autumn  by  being  cleaned, 
prepared  and  planted  with  subjects  that  cannot 
be  depended  upon  to  mature  their  crops  in  the 
open  air,  such  as  Cucumbers,  which  enjoj-  a  rich 
root-run  and  bear  freely  without  the  aid  of 
artificial  heat. 

Tomatoes  also  prove  very  amenable  to  cold- 
frame  treatment,  but  the  roots  must  be  kept  clear 
of  manure  or  even  rich  soil,  or  growth  will  be  pro- 
duced at  the  expense  of  fruitfulness.  These  are 
best  planted  at  the  lowest  part  of  the  structure 
and  trained  to  stakes  or  twine  in  a  sloping  posi- 
tion to  the  top.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

QaUoway  House,  Garlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


SWEET     PEAS     AT     THE 
TEMPLE     SHOW. 

IT  is  at  the  Temple  Show  that  the  Sweet 
Pea  enthusiast  gets  his  or  her  first  sub- 
stantial feast  of  these  fragrant  flowers, 
and  this  year  they  were  shown  in  greater 
quantity  than  ever.  The  quality,  too, 
was  good  in  most  instances,  but  really 
good  and  distinct  novelties  were  none  too 
plentiful. 

Messrs.  Robert  Sydenham,  Limited,  Birming- 
ham, was  showing  a  good  and  well-arranged  lot 
of  flowers.  Helen  Grosvenor  is  a  very  pretty 
waved  flower,  the  large  standard  being  similar 
in  colour  to  Henry  Eokford,  but  the  wings  are  a 
delicate  soft  rose.  Romani  Rauni  is  a  highly 
waved  member  of  the  cream  and  pink  section, 
and  somewhat  resembles  Mrs.  Henry  Bell. 
Tortoiseshell  is  another  waved  one,  and  may  be 
regarded  as  a  Spencer  Henry  Eckford.  Syeira 
Lee  is  a  very  rich  pink  sort,  with  a  beautifully 
waved  standard,  the  bases  of  the  petals  being 
very  delicately  suffused  with  cream.  In  addition 
to  the  foregoing  new  varieties.  Zephyr,  Helen 
Pierce  and  a  number  of  unnamed  seedlings  were 
shown  in  this  group. 

The  exhibit  staged  by  Messrs.  E.  W.  King 
and  Co.  of  Coggeshall  was  a  beautiful  one,  the 
quality  of  the  blooms  being  good.  Blush 
Spencer  is  a  very  faintly  coloured  new  one  that 
is  pleasing  as  seen  growing  under  glass.  Cream 
Spencer  and  White  Spencer  forming  an  interesting 
trio.  Stirling  Stent  is  a  novelty  for  next  year  ; 
it  may  best  be  described  as  a  faintly  coloured 
waved  Henry  Eckford  when  grown  under  glass, 
but  the  flowers  appear  to  deepen  in  colour  as  they 
go  off.  Grown  outside,  the  colour  is  much  deeper 
and  more  red  than  that  of  Henry  Eckford.  Helen 
Lewis,  Mrs.  Henry  Bell  and  Moneymaker  (a 
large  waved  white)  were  all  shown  in  good  form. 
Mr.  C.  W.  Breadmore  of  Winchester  was 
maintaining  his  high  reputation  with  a  beautiful 
group  of  well-grown  flowers.  A  few  that  we 
noted  here  as  being  of  special  interest  were 
Princess  Juliana,  a  larged  waved  cream  variety  ; 
Mrs.  A.  Ireland,  a  fine  Apple-blossom -coloured 
sort,  grand  for  decoration ;  Dazzler,  a  large, 
slightly  waved  flower,  with  rich  orange  standard 
and  rose  wings,  being  a  sort  of  glorified  Helen 
Lewis  ;  and  the  beautiful  cream  and  pink  Mrs. 
C.  W.  Breadmore. 

The  H.  J.  Jones's  Nurseries,  Limited, 
Lewisham,  S.E.,  had  a  long  bank  of  good  though 
rather  small  flowers.  A  large  number  of 
seedlings  were  included  in  addition  to  practically 
all  the  good  standard  sorts.  Sunrise  is  one  of 
the  waved  Henry  Eckford  section,  the  colour 
being  very  delicate  in  these  indoor-grown  flowers. 
Malcolm's  Waved  Cream  is  very  deep  in  colour, 
and  is  undoubtedly  a  good  variety. 


June  5,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


283 


We  always  expect  something  good  from 
Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  and  rarely  are  we  dis- 
appointed. This  year  they  put  up  a  beautiful 
lot  of  flowers,  which  for  size,  substance  and 
colour  would  be  very  hard  to  beat.  Edrom 
Beauty,  as  grown  under  glass,  is  an  improved 
Helen  Lewis ;  but  the  firm  is  very  properly 
waiting  to  see  how  it  behaves  outdoors  before 
sending  it  out.  Those  who  like  the  delicate 
pale  blue  colour  of  Lady  Grisel  Hamilton  will  be 
glad  to  hear  of  Masterpiece,  a  large  waved 
flower  of  that  colour.  Earl  Spencer  (Nancy 
Perkins)  was  shown  in  grand  condition  on  the 
stand,  the  large  rich  orange  flowers  attracting 
much  attention.  New  Crimson  is  a  large  waved 
variety  resembling  The  King,  a  little  duller  in 
colour  perhaps,  but  having  the  advantage  of  not 
burning.  Betty  Cantley  is  one  of  the  plain 
standard  section,  the  colour  being  a  delicate 
sufiusion  of  cream  and  pink. 

Mr.  Robert  Chaplin,  Joynings  Nursery, 
Waltham  Cross,  had  a  small  group  of  well-grown 
and  nicely  coloured  flowers.  Miss  Collier, 
Henry  Eckford,  Helen  Pierce  and  Frank  Dolby 
were  all  very  fine,  and  we  noticed  a  new  flaked 
salmon  red  seedling  of  attractive  appearance. 

Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark's  group  from  Dover 
was  very  well  arranged,  the  foliage  and  tendrils 
perhaps  confusing  visitors  a  little.  Constance 
Oliver  was  very  highly  coloured  here,  and  St. 
George  was  also  well  developed  in  this  respect. 
Surrender  is  a  new  waved  sort  of  almost  reddish 
violet  colouring,  the  wings  being  deeper  than  the 
standard. 

Miss  Hemus  of  Holdfast  Hall,  Upton -ou-Sevem, 
and  Mr.  George  Stark  both  had  small  groups  of 
well-grown  flowers,  but  the  space  available  was 
not  sufficient  to  do  them  justice. 


HOW    TO    GROW    FRUIT 
TREES    IN   POTS. 

(Oontmued  Jrom  page  S5S.J 
Nectarines. 

FORCING  varieties  best  suited  for  pot 
tree  culture  are  given  in  the  order  of 
ripening : 
Cardinal,  the  first  early,  being  ten 
days  in  advance  of  Early  Rivers',  sets 
its  fruit  freely,  which  is  an  essential 
point.  It  colours  well,  and  in  point  of  size  may 
be  placed  second.  It  is  a  oling-stone  fruit,  but 
nevertheless  excellent.  It  should  not  be  allowed 
to  hang,  like  many  Nectarines,  until  it  is  dead 
ripe,  or  it  will  be  found  somewhat  woolly  to  the 
taste. 

Early  Rivera'  follows  as  the  second  in  order  of 
ripening.  In  size  it  is  distinctly  in  the  front 
rank ;  it  colours  well  and  will  keep  well  also  after 
being  gathered.  Its  flavour,  too,  is  first  class, 
while  as  a  packer  it  will  travel  well.  Compared 
with  many  Nectarines  it  has  a  relatively  small 
stone  to  the  size  of  the  fruit. 

Advance,  which  I  place  third  (it  ripens  a  little 
in  front  of  Lord  Napier),  is  one  of  the  finest 
flavoured  of  all  Nectarines ;  in  fact,  I  consider  it 
the  very  best.  It  has  only  one  drawback,  in  that 
it  does  not  always  set  so  freely  as  those  I  have 
named.  It  is  somewhat  mottled  in  its  colouring. 
In  size  it  comes  second,  while  its  flowers  are  as 
handsome  as  any,  rivalling  the  old  Stanwick. 

Lord  Napier  follows.  This  is  so  well  known 
that  any  further  remark  is  not  needed. 

Pme  Apple  and  Humboldt  are  next  in  order  of 
ripening.  These  are  both  well  known,  possibly 
the  first  named  more  than  the  second,  however. 
They  are  excellent  croppers  and  of  good  constitu- 
tion. The  fruits  when  well  finished  are  very  fine, 
and  in  point  of  size  should  be  placed  in  the  front 
rank.  They  possess  that  distinct  advantage  of 
keeping  well  when  ripe.  Victoria  is  not  a  forcing 
Nectarine,  but  it  is  a  valuable  addition  for  the 
sake  of  its  profusion  of  pollen,  a  point  that  should 
be  noted. 


PBACHBa. 

I  place  Duhe  oj  York  and  Duchess  q/  Corn- 
wall in  the  front  rank  as  first  early  varieties  for 
pot  culture.  The  former  is,  perhaps,  on  the 
whole  the  better  of  the  two,  but  both  of  them 
aie  good.  Duke  of  York  usually  colours  better  ; 
hence  in  this  respect  it  is  valuable.  Both  of 
these  surpass  Alexander  and  Waterloo,  in  that 
they  are  not  so  predisposed  to  cast  their  buds  as 
these  two  last  -  named  American  varieties. 
Hale's  Early  and  Amsden  June  are  uncertain,  in 
that  they  also  oast  their  buds,  but  not  so  badly 
as  some.     I  recommend 

Rivers's  Early  York  and  Early  Grosse  Mig- 
nonne  in  preference  to  either  of  them.  These 
will  follow  the  two  first  named  on  this  list. 

Crimson  Galande  and  Stirling  Castle,  both 
with  small  flowers,  but  most  prolific  in  pollen, 
would  be  my  choice  to  complete  half-a-dozen. 

Dr.  Hogg  we  always  place  in  the  first  house 
with  the  Nectarines,  simply  because  of  the 
pollen,  which  is  so  freely  produced.  Of  Peaches 
that  are  not  yet  so  well  known  as  they  deserve 
to  be  for  forcing  I  recommend 

Peregrine,  one  of  the  latest  of  Messrs.  Rivers's 
introductions,  and 

Dymond,  which  has  a  distinct  advantage  over 
that  old  favourite.  Royal  George,  in  that  it  is  not 
liable  to  mildew.  On  the  whole,  we  have  better 
success  with  the  first  early  Nectarines  than  we 
do  with  the  first  early  Peaches,  both  in  quality 
of  fruit  and  productiveness. 

Plums. 

Until  within  the  past  ten  or  twelve  years  it 
was  very  rare  indeed  to  find  the  forcing  of  Plums 
carried  on  even  in  a  very  limited  degree.  When 
we  first  commenced  with  Plums  I  was  surprised 
to  find  how  amenable  they  were  to  this  treat- 
ment. We  have  forced  the  same  trees  now  for 
more  than  ten  years,  and  it  is  very  rare  indeed 
that  a  tree  fails.  For  the  first  early  we  depend  upon 

Rivera's  Early  Prolific.  It  crops  well  if  not  of 
the  very  best  quality  for  dessert.  I  find  it  ripens 
about  a  week  later  than  Cardinal  Nectarine  in  the 
same  house.     The  next  in  point  of  earliness  is 

Early  Transparent  Cage. — This  is  a  most 
reliable  cropper  and  of  the  richest  possible 
flavour  when  fully  matured.  When  ripe  it  is  a 
valuable  ornament,  even  to  the  dessert.  In 
colour  it  is  a  greenish  yellow,  with  blotches  and 
dottings  of  orange  and  crimson.  It  ripens  under 
the  same  conditions  about  three  weeks  later. 

Jefferson  makes  a  good  succession.  This  Plum 
is  well  known  out  of  doors,  and  under  glass  it  is 
equally  as  good,  if  not  better. 

Reine  Claude  d'Altlian  makes  up  a  quartette 
of  Plums  that  for  forcing  in  pots  are  hard  to 
beat ;  this  last  named  is  a  fine-looking  Plum, 
and  when  well  matured  of  very  rich  flavour  ;  in 
colour  it  is  red,  with  a  rich  bloom  upon  the  fruit. 
Chbkries. 

The  earliest  Cherry  to  ripen  in  pots  is  Ouigne 
Annonay,  a  rich  black  fruit  with  a  small  stone 
and  a  variety  that  crops  well. 

Rivers's  Early  is  next  to  it  in  the  order  of 
ripening.  It  is  an  abundant  cropper  of  the 
largest  size,  very  rich  in  flavour  and  one  that 
hangs  well  after  it  is  ripe.  I  consider  this  to  be 
the  finest  Cherry  in  cultivation. 

Frogmore  Early  Bigarreau  is  the  best  of  the 
light  Cherries  ;  in  flavour  it  is  excellent,  firm  in 
texture,  of  large  size  and  a  good  bearer. 

Governor  Wood,  an  American  variety,  is  one 
that  we  find  very  useful ;  though  not  so  large  as 
the  preceding,  it  is  very  prolific  and  extremely 
sweet  in  flavour. 

Elton.  — This  old  variety  proves  to  be  excellent 
in  pots  ;  its  large  fruits  are  strikingly  handsome 
and  it  hangs  well,  being  a  good  succession  to 
any  of  the  preceding  kinds. 

Reine  Sortense  is  a  distinct  Cherry,  pale  red 
in  colour,  with  thin  skin,  a  good  bearer,  ripening 
about  the  same  time  as  the  last  named.  In  addi- 
tion we  grow  both  May  Duke  and  Empress  Eugenie 
for  the  sake  of  their  pollen,  but  their  fruits  are 
much  appreciated  when  fully  ripe.    J.  Hudson. 


THE    NATIONAL  TULIP 
SHOW. 

TUESDAY,  May  18,  was  a  real  Tulip 
day  at  Vincent  Square.  Seldom, 
indeed,  in  the  last  few  years  have 
more  varieties  been  gathered 
together  in  one  plaee  than  was  the 
case  then.  I  have  seen  a  certain 
number  of  big  days  there  myself,  but  I  doubt  if  I 
have  ever  seen  a  more  even  lot  of  nice  blooms 
than  I  saw  then.  There  seemed  to  be  no  poor 
ones,  and  the  silver  and  silver-gilt  medals  wL  ioh 
were  awarded  the  different  amateur  and  trade 
groups  were  well  earned.  No  one  was  passed 
over.  No  one  got  a  "bronze."  We  Tulip- 
lovers  had  a  rare  treat.  The  excellent  arrange- 
ment of  pot-grown  plants  staged  right  along  the 
whole  end  of  the  hall  by  Messrs.  R.  and  G.  Cuth- 
bert,  the  freshness  and  size  of  Messrs.  Sutton  and 
Sons'  blooms,  the  grand  large  Irish  flowers  of 
Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons,  the  old-world 
bizarres,  roses  and  byblcemens  alongside  the  gayer 
Cottagers  and  Darwins  that  greeted  one  as  they 
entered  on  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons'  stand,  the 
glorious  mass  of  Tulip  colour,  no  less  than  the 
individual  loveliness  of  some  of  the  "  newest  of 
the  new  "  that  arrested  everyone's  attention  as 
they  passed  up  and  down  the  fine  collection  that 
Messrs.  Wallace  and  Sons  had  brought  from 
Colchester  ;  these  groups  were  each  of  them 
awarded  silver-gilt  Flora  medals. 

Hardly  less  beautiful  and  interesting  were  the 
groups  of  Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath  and  James  Veitch 
and  Sons,  which  received  silver-gilt  Banksian 
medals.  The  former  firm  had  a  good  many 
uncommon  varieties,  while  the  latter  contented 
themselves  with  showing  in  a  pleasing  fashion 
the  better-known  sorts.  Messrs.  Hogg  and 
Robertson  had  an  interesting  mixture  of  ' '  old 
and  new,"  and  received  a  silver  Flora  medal. 
Their  Zomersohroon  was  an  interesting 
reminder  of  the  past.  I  never  see  it  without 
being  reminded  of  all  the  glamour  and  romance 
which  belongs  to  this  Eastern  potentate.  I 
must  not  omit  to  mention  the  smaller  contribu- 
tions which  were  made  by  Lord  HilUngdon, 
Canon  Fowler  and  Messrs.  Bull  and  Sous.  They 
each  had  their  points  of  interest,  and  the  show 
would  have  suffered  had  they  not  been  there. 
Each  had  a  hand  in  making  the  show  of  Tulips 
at  Vincent  Square  on  the  18th  what  I  think 
it  may  without  any  exaggeration  be  called  "a 
great  show. " 

All  these,  however,  by  themselves  would  have 
left  a  void.  There  would  have  been  some- 
thing wanting — something  without  which  no 
assembly  of  fine  flowers  will  ever,  I  hope,  be 
called  "  National,"  and  that  something  would 
have  been  the  true  florist's  flowers,  those 
wonderful  combinations  of  colour  and  form  and 
markings  which  generations  of  patient  workers 
have  been  slowly  evolving  from  the  now  impos- 
sible flowers  that  startled  the  floral  world  of 
Western  Europe  in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  These  were  there  that  day,  and  once 
again  in  its  long  life  the  Royal  National  Tulip 
Society  took  part  in  what,  without  any  dis- 
respect to  this  venerable  body,  of  which  I  am 
proud  to  be  a  humble  member,  a  real  National  Tulip 
show.  Tucked  away,  I  regret  to  say,  in  one  of 
the  annexes,  the  Southern  Section  that  day  held 
its  show.  The  entries  were  good,  the  competi- 
tion in  most  classes  keen  ;  but  on  the  whole  the 
flowers  were  weak.  The  cold,  rainless  days 
told  a  tale,  and  as  a  rule  the  blooms  were 
deficient  in  size  and  all  the  flames  very  poor. 
Curiously  enough,  the  feathered  flowers  were 
quite  up  to  the  average  ;  some  few,  in  fact,  were 
exceptionally  good.  A  fact  of  great  interest  and 
promise  is  that  there  were  a  good  many  seed- 
lings exhibited,  some  in  a  "  broken "  state,  but 
most  as  breeders. 

I  wish  Messrs.  Chater,  Peters  and  Hall  every 
success  in  their  efforts  to  raise  new  varieties. 
The   vitality  of  such  old-time    sorts   as    Julia 


284 


THE    GARDEN. 


[June  5,  1905* 


Farnese  {raised  by  Slater  about  eighty  years 
ago),  and  Guide,  a  heavy  plaited  feathered 
bybliemen  (raised  about  the  same  time),  which  I 
noticed  among  the  single  blooms,  must  be 
waning,  and  varieties  are  wanted  to  take  their 
place.  The  flower  of  the  show  was  Miss  Will- 
mott's  feathered  bizarre  William  Annibal  ;  its 
purity  and  markings  were  quite  exceptional. 
Mr.  Needham  had  a  fine  feathered  byblcemen  in 
Stockport  and  a  feathered  bizarre  in  George 
Hayward ;  while  Mr.  Hall  had  an  extremely 
promising  bizarre  breeder  in  Gleam.  Both  Miss 
Willmott  and  Mr.  W.  L.  S.  Loat  staged  ex- 
cellent blooms  of  Cottage  and  Darwin  Tulips  ; 
they  were  not  very  nicely  arranged.  In  justice 
to  both  it  must  be  said  that  space  was  severely 
limited,  and  anything  very  artistic  was  out  of 
the  question.  Mr.  W.  Peters  is  to  be  congratu- 
lated on  the  progress  of  the  Southern  Section  of 
the  society  and  on  his  arrangements  for  the  show. 

The  following  were  some  of  the  prize-winners  : 
Class  A,  twelve  dissimilar  rectified  Tulips : 
First,  C.  W.  Needham  ;  second,  Miss  Willmott ; 
third,  A.  D.  Hall,  Class  B,  six  dissimilar 
rectified  Tulips  :  First,  Miss  Willmott ;  second, 
W.  Dunn.  Class  C,  three  feathered  Tulips : 
First,  Miss  Willmott ;  second,  A.  D.  Hall. 
Class  D,  three  flamed  Tulips  ;  First,  Miss  Will- 
mott ;  second,  W.  Dunn.  Class  E,  six  dissimilar 
breeder  Tulips :  First,  A.  I).  Hall ;  second. 
Miss  Willmott.  Class  F,  three  dissimilar 
breeder  Tulips  :  First,  Miss  Willmott ;  second, 
A.  D.  Hall. 

In  the  single  blooms  and  pairs  Miss  Willmott 
and  Messrs.  Dunn,  Hall  and  Needham  were  the 
chief  prize-winners,  and  for  the  Darwin  and 
Cottage  sections  Miss  Willmott  and  Mr.  Loat. 
Mr.  William  Bolton  of  Warrington,  an  old  Tulip 
fancier,  who  now,  however,  devotes  most  of  his 
attention  to  Orchids,  was  the  judge.     .T.  Jacob. 


ANSWERS 
TO    CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

QueErtlona  and  Anavrera,— The  Editor  intends 

to  make  Thsi  Gabden  helpful  to  aU  readers  toho  desire 
<l8ai8tance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  wiU  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  Ansioers  to  Corresporuients "  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  loritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  onXy^  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THB 
Oarder,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHBK. 
The  na/me  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
<iddition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Selection  of  Cactus  Dahlias  (.?.  M.) 

Seeing  that  any  ordinary  list  of  Cactus  Dahlias 
well  up  to  date,  and  discarding  all  varieties  of 
some  five  or  six  years  old,  as  now  superseded, 
includes  oonsiderably  over  '200  named  varieties, 
and  all  in  their  respective  colours  very  beautiful, 
it  will  be  evident  to  you  that  making  a  selection 
of  a  mere  baker's  dozen  from  so  many  is  a  matter 
of  great  difficulty.  This  being  so,  we  have 
preferred  to  accept  as  a  guide  Mr.  Edward 
Mawley's  census  of  the  number  of  times  certain 
varieties  of  the  newer  forms  were  exhibited  at 
the  exhibition  of  the  National  Dahlia  Society 
last  autumn,  and  in  taking  those  most  frequently 
staged  think  that  such  a  selection  must  be  the 
best.  These  are  from  the  top  of  the  list  of 
eighty  varieties  published  in  the  society's 
schedule.  You  may,  if  you  wish  to  become  a 
Cactus  Dahlia  grower,  do  worse  than  become  a 
member,  as  the  subscription  is  only  os.  yearly, 
and  the  hon.  secretary  is  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes, 
Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's  Park,  London. 
The  thirteen  varieties  are  as   follows :    Nelson, 


rich  crimson  ;  ^\'illiam  Marshall,  bright  orange  ; 
Mrs.  Macraillan,  centre  white,  deepening  to 
pink  ;  Mrs.  F.  Grinsted,  deep  rich  crimson, 
shaded  purple ;  J.  H.  Jackson,  brilliant 
crimson  maroon ;  J.  B.  Riding,  base  yellow, 
deepening  to  aprioot ;  Ruby  Grinsted,  soft 
yellow,  shading  to  rosy  fawn  ;  Mrs.  E.  Mawley, 
clear  yellow,  very  fine ;  Harbour  Light, 
orange  red  ;  Thomas  Parkin,  light  terra-cotta, 
large ;  H.  Shoesmith,  brilliant  deep  scarlet ; 
Pearl,  rosy  pink,  petals  tipped  white  ;  Rainbow, 
soft  pink,  light  centre.  It  will  be  seen  that 
while  all  differ  in  hue,  not  a  few  are  what  are 
known  as  shaded  flowers.  This  is  a  prominent 
characteristic  of  the  Cactus  Dahlia,  as  it  gives  us 
hues  and  combinations  of  hues  never  seen  in 
flowers  before  this  wonderful  race  was  developed 
as  it  is  to-day. 

Injury  to  Tree  Pseony  (W.  B.).— The  appearance 
of  the  ahoot  is  consistent  with  injury  to  the  tissues  of  the 
newly  formed  branches  just  as  they  arose  from  the  stem 
when  growth  began. 

Violet  leaves  turned  yellow  (Mrs.  B.).— No 
fungus  is  presenton  the  leaves  to  accountfor  the  yellowing, 
but  a  deposit  of  some  sort,  apparently  from  the  water 
used,  is  present  on  some  of  them.  It  is  best  to  use  rain- 
water, but  sometimes  in  districts  near  smelting  works  and 
so  on  this  contains  acids  brought  down  from  the  air,  which 
are  liable  to  do  injury  to  plants.  In  such  places  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  grow  Violets  well. 

Name  and  infopmation  about  a  plant 
(West  .S'»A'.vrx). — The  specimen  you  send  for  name  is 
Lathyrus  luteus  aureus.  As  a  rule  seeds  set  freely  and 
form  a  ready  means  of  increase.  You  may  also  increase 
it  by  taking  the  young  shoets  when  -2  inches  or  3  inches 
long  in  spring,  and  using  them  as  cuttings.  They  ought 
to  be  inserted  in  sandy  soil  in  a  close  and  warm  propa- 
gating-case.  About  mid-April  is  a  suitable  time  to  take 
the  cuttings.  Y«u  ought,  however,  to  keep  a  sharp  look- 
out for  seeds  this  summer. 

Double  DaCfodils  not  flovreplng'  (ymmg 
Gardener). — The  uon-tlowering  of  the  bulbs  this  year  is 
because  no  flower-buds  were  formed  last  year  within  the 
bulbs  and  could  not,  therefore,  be  produced.  That  no 
flower-buds  were  formed  may  be  due  to  one  of  several 
causes.,  viz.,  impoverished  soil,  overcrowding  of  the 
clumps  of  bulbs,  or  a  too  dry  rooting  medium.  Because 
the  bulbs  have  for  years  flowered  well,  it  does  not  follow 
that  this  can  go  on  indefinitely,  and  seeing  that  the  plants 
are  apparently  healthy,  your  better  plan  will  lie  to  lift 
the  clumps  in  early  July,  freely  divide  the  bulbs,  and 
replant  them  in  a  fresh  position  in  well-prepared, 
moderately  manured  soil.  These  Daflfodils  delight  in  root 
moisture,  and  possibly  the  position  among  the  trees  has 
been  too  dry  for  them. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Tpeatment    of    EucliaFis 

amazonica  (Lady  B.). — It  is,  of  course, 
impossible  for  us  to  state  positively  the  cause  of 
your  plants  of  Eucharis  amazonica  falling  into  ill- 
health,  but  it  is  generally  owing  to  the  soil 
having  been  kept  too  wet,  and,  consequently, 
many  of  the  roots  perish.  This  theory  is  still 
further  borne  out  by  the  fact  that  the  leaves  of 
your  plants  are  of  an  unhealthy  yellow  tint. 
You  speak  of  the  plants  having  been  repotted 
in  March,  and  the  question  is.  How  was  the 
operation  carried  out?  If  the  bulbs  with  their 
attendant  balls  of  earth  were  simply  transferred 
to  other  pots  with,  perhaps,  a  little  new  soil,  the 
plants  are  not  likely  to  improve.  The  potting 
should  have  been  carried  out  in  the  following 
manner  :  First,  turn  the  plants  out  of  their  pots 
and  shake  off  as  much  as  possible  of  the  old  soil. 
Then  wash  the  bulbs  and  roots  quite  clean,  and 
lay  them  out  for  an  hour  or  so  to  drain.  By 
washing  the  roots  j'ou  will  be  able  to  ascertain 
their  condition  exactly,  and  it  is  very  probable 
that  many  of  them  will  be  more  or  less  decayed. 
All  such  must  be  out  clean  away,  leaving  only 
the  quite  sound  roots  attached  to  the  bulbs,  after 
which  they  may  be  repotted.  For  this  purpose 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  have  pots  too  large, 
and  in  all  probability  they  may  with  advantage 
be  considerably  smaller  than  those  in  which  the 
plants  have  been  growing,  for  the  all-important 
item  is  to  encourage  healthy  root  action,  which 
can  never  take  place  if  the  bulbs  are  surrounded 
by  a  large  mass  of  soil.  The  pots  must  be  quite 
clean  and  effectually  drained,  a  suitable  potting 
compost  being  two  parts  yellow  loam  to  one  part 
of  leaf-mould  and  nearly  a  part  of  silver  sand. 
The  sand  should  be  of  a  coarse,  open  nature,  and 


not  fine  like  the  Reigate  sand.  In  potting  the 
bulbs  should  be  put  at  such  a  depth  that  the 
upper  part  or  crown  is  just  on  a  level  with  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  which  must  be  pressed  down 
moderately  firm.  When  finished  place  the  plants 
in  a  stove  where  a  night  temperature  of  60°  is 
maintained,  rising,  of  course,  during  the  day. 
If  they  can  be  plunged  in  a  gentle  bottom-heat, 
so  much  the  better.  The  plants  must  be  shaded 
from  the  sun's  rays  and  care  taken  not  to  over- 
water,  at  all  events  till  the  roots  are  again  active, 
though  a  liberal  amount  of  atmospheric  moisture 
will  be  beneficial.  As  new  roots  develop  and 
take  possession  of  the  soil,  the  foliage  will 
grsidually  assume  a  more  healthy  tint  and  become 
firmer  in  texture,  two  very  necessary  items  before 
one  can  hope  for  a  good  display  of  flowers.  You 
do  not  say  what  size  pots  your  Eucharis  are  in, 
but  good  flowering  examples  may  be  had  in  pots 
6  inches  in  diameter,  though,  of  course,  when 
full  of  roots  larger  ones  will  be  needed.  Still, 
once  in  pots  8  inches  or  9  inches  in  diameter 
they  will  stand  for  years  and  keep  in  good  health 
without  repotting,  but  during  the  growing  season 
a  little  stimulant  in  the  shape  of  weak  liquid 
manure  and  soot- water  will  be  beneficial.  For 
large  pots  it  is  an  advantage  to  mix  some  nodules 
of  charcoal  about  the  size  of  Hazel  Nuts  with  the 
soil,  as  it  tends  to  keep  the  compost  sweet. 
Healthy  plants  do  not  need  as  much  shading  as 
sickly  ones,  but  in  any  case  they  require  pro- 
tection from  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Very  little  fire- 
heat  is  needed  during  the  summer  months,  but 
in  winter  a  minimum  night  temperature  of  5.5° 
should  be  maintained,  rising,  of  course,  10°  or  so 
during  the  day.  It  appears  to  us  that  your 
plants  have  been  kept  unduly  warm,  for  you 
speak  of  a  temperature  of  7u°  to  80°.  Perhaps, 
however,  you  do  not  intend  7o°  to  be  taken  as 
the  minimum  temperature,  but  rather  as  a 
possible  maximum.  Some  Fancratiums  need 
more  heat  than  others,  but  P.  fragrans  or  P. 
speciosa  may  be  grown  in  the  same  temperature 
as  the  Eucharis  or  a  little  cooler. 

Calceolaria  flov^ep  fop  lnspeetlon(A  W.).— 
The  Calceolaria  flower  is  a  decidedly  abnormal  one,  for 
although  the  pouch  is  quite  correct  the  upper  part  suggests 
a  fusion  of  three  separate  flowers.  It  is  a  curiosity, 
although  we  have  met  with  flowers  very  similar  before. 
It  is  quite  possible  that  seed  saved  from  these  flowers 
would  in  some  cases,  at  least,  reproduce  the  peculiarity, 
and  in  two  or  three  generations  the  sport  might  become 
fixed.  Still,  we  do  not  advise  you  to  go  to  that  amount  of 
trouble,  as  such  a  flower  would  be  of  no  commercial  value 
but  simply  a  curiosity. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Roses  decayingr  (C-  Bt-  Barter).— The, 
tawny  coloured,  cancerous-looking  marks  upon 
the  growths  of  your  Roses  are  caused  by  a 
disease  known  as  Rose  tumour.  This  disease  is 
deep-seated  and  has  permeated  the  tissues  before 
it  makes  its  external  appearance.  There  is  no 
known  cure  for  it  save  cutting  below  the  injured 
parts  and  burning  them.  It  is  found  upon 
Roses  not  only  in  Britain,  but  all  over  the  Con- 
tinent. Fortunately,  we  do  not  hear  of  much  of 
this  disease  upon  English-grown  plants.  If  you 
procure  your  Roses  abroad  you  will  do  well  to 
examine  them,  and  if  any  disease  presents  itself 
cut  it  away  at  once. 

Decayed  Rose  steins  (E.  s.  i^.).— The 
portions  of  growth  sent  were  so  very  soft  and 
pithy  that  we  were  not  surprised  to  find  the 
apparently  diseased  portions.  Such  soft  growths 
should  be  cut  clean  away  at  pruning-time. 
There  may  be  some  defect  in  the  soil,  which 
causes  the  plants  to  make  these  soft  pithy  shoots. 
In  the  autumn  try  cutting  a  few  inches  off  the 
extreme  ends.  By  doing  this  in  September  the 
growths  are  encouraged  to  ripen  better,  and 
when  they  are  well  matured  they  can  withstand 
the  vicissitudes  of  the  weather  much  more 
satisfactorily. 

OPOVfrth  upon  wrtld  Bplap  {Miss  Montgom^rie). 
The  small  knotty  growths  upon  the  piece  of  wild  Briar 
sent  are  caused  by  the  puncture  of  a  small  insect.  The 
growths  are  often  very  large  and  are  sometimes  called 
"  Kobins'  Nests."    They  are  not  ol  any  great  harm. 


GARDEN. 


—^>=^' 


■\::^t^M 


No.  1960.  -Vol.  LXXIII. 


June  12,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


Flowers,  Fkuits  and 
Vegetables  for 
Exhibition      . .     . .    286 

Prizes  for  Eeadera      . .    286 

NOTRH  OF  THE  WBBK 

Forthcoming  events      286 

GOBRESPONDRNOE 
Tender    plants    and 

the  winter  . .  . .  287 
An  early  waspa'  nest  287 
The    first    fiose    of 

summer 287 

Carnations     at     the 

Temple  Show  . .  287 
A  complaint  . .  . .  287 
A   fine   Cineraria 

(Antique  Rose)  287 

Narcissus  White  Star    287 

Irish  notes     287 

A  tribute  to  Mr.  Harry 
J.     Veitch,      F.L.S., 

V.M.H 28S 

Bryony    288 

ifi.nwBK  Garden 
The  hardy  Primulas      289 
Saxifraga     decipiena 

Miss  Willmott      . .    289 
Two    good    Wall- 
flowers      289 


Fruit  Gakden 
Fruit  notes        ..     ..     290 
Hints    on     Vine 
culture 290 

Robe  Oabden 

New  Eosea 291 

Feeding  Roses  . .     . .    291 

A     fine     specimen    of 
Pyrus  floribunda     . .    291 

(JABDENIHG  FOB  BEGINNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week                     ..292 
Increasing  the  Rose- 
mary     292 

Thinning     young 
vegetables      ..     ..    293 
The  Town  Gabden  ..    293 
Gardenihg  of  the  Week 
For    the  South    and 

South  Midlands    . .     294 

For  the   North   and 

North  Midlands  ..     294 

Editor's  Table      . .     . .    294 

Books      296 

AH8WEE8      TO     COBEB- 
BPONDBBTS 

Blower  garden  .  . .  29S 
Kitchen  garden  . .  296 
Miscellaneous  ..     ..    296 


IliliUSTRATIONS. 

An  early  wasps'  nest      287 

Narcissus  White  Star 287 

Mr.  Harry  J.  Veitch,  r.L.S.,  V.M.H 288 

The  new  Saxitraga  decipiens  Miss  Willmott       . .     . .  289 

The  new  Rose  Coquina 290 

A  fine  specimen  of  Pyrus  Horibunda       291 

Increasing  the  Rosemary     292,  293 

A  summer-house  designed  by  Mr.  J.  P.  White     . .     . .  295 


EDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

Svery  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THB 
Gabdbh,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  vnsh  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  thcU  object  he  mshes  to  make 
the  "Angwers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
fecntwCt  a/ndt  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
wiU  kindZy  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o/  their  assistance. 
AU  communications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  oj  the.  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  KDITOR  o/  THE 
Oardxn,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  oj  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
*u«  he  imll  not  be  responsible  for  their  sOife  return.  AU 
reasonable  care,  however,  wiU  be  taken,  a-nd  where  stamps 
AKre  endesed,  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  7wn-aocepted 
eooitributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actuai  photographer  or  oumer  of  the  copyright  wiU  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  viiU  rwt  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  ^oof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
.that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THB  GARDEN 
■unU  iUone  be  recognised  as  axceptamce. 

0§ees:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C, 


FLOWERS,  FRUITS  AND 
VEGETABLES  FOR 
EXHIBITION. 

How  TO  Gather,  Pack  and  Transmit  Them. 
(First  Prize  Essay.) 

FRESHNESS  and  perfect  condition  are 
always  the  first  consideration  in 
judging  exhibits,  whether  consisting 
of  flowers,  fruits  or  vegetables,  and, 
as  the  best  methods  of  gathering  and 
packing  differ  a  little  in  each  case,  I  propose  to 
deal  with  each  of  the  three  separately. 

Gathering  and  Packing  Flowers. 
It  is  best,  if  possible,  to  gather  the  flowers 
quite  early  on  the  morning  of  the  exhibition — 
the  earlier  the  better,  in  fact ;  but  where  the 
exhibitor  resides  at  a  considerable  distance,  they 
should  be  gathered  the  previous  evening,  so  that 
they  can  be  despatched  in  good  time.  Cut  the 
blooms  with  long  stems  and  place  in  water 
at  once,  keeping  them  in  a  cool,  dark  room  till 
they  are  packed.  It  requires  some  experience 
to  select  the  most  suitable  flowers ;  good  form 
and  colour  are  the  primary  points,  size  coming 
next ;  any  blooms  with  the  slightest  blemish 
should  be  rejected.  Flowers  which  open  quickly, 
such  as  many  of  the  "thin"  Roses,  should  be 
cut  in  the  bud  stage,  fuUer-petalled  Roses  when 
half  open  ;  Sweet  Peas  are  best  gathered  when 
the  two  lower  flowers  on  the  stem  are  open ; 
Carnations  when  the  flowers  are  almost  fully 
expanded.  It  is  advisable  in  all  eases  to  cut  a 
few  extra  flowers,  to  be  held  in  reserve  for 
replacing  any  which  are  not  in  proper  condition 
for  staging. 

For  packing,  shallow  boxes  should  be  em- 
ployed, as  the  flowers  will  travel  much  better  if 
packed  in  single  layers  ;  the  boxes  should  be 
just  long  enough  to  comfortably  accommodate 
the  flowers  and  should  be  lined  with  some  soft 
non-absorbent  material ;  wood-wool  is  the  best 
material  to  use,  but  fresh  moss  will  also  answer 
the  purpose  ;  over  this  place  a  layer  of  white 
tissue  paper  and  then  lay  the  flowers  in  position, 
packing  them  as  closely  as  possible  ;  cover  with 
another  layer  of  tissue  paper  and  fill  in  if 
necessary  with  a  little  more  packine;  material  till, 
when  the  lid  is  placed  in  position,  the  contents  of 
the  box  are  quite  firm  and  unable  to  shift.  As 
far  as  possible,  flowers  should  be  packed  as  they 
are  to  be  exhibited,  either  singly  or  in  bunches, 
and  the  name  of  the  variety  should  be  securely 
attached  to  each.  A  card  showing  the  section 
and  class  for  which  the  exhibit  is  intended 
should  also  be  enclosed.  When  an  exhibitor  is 
competing  in  several  classes,  each  exhibit  should 
be    separately   packed  in  light  wooden  boxes, 


these  being  afterwards  placed  in  a  stout  case. 
Those  who  are  able  to  personally  convey  and 
stage  their  exhibits  should  make  use  of  the  vases 
or  tubes  in  which  the  flowers  are  to  be  shown, 
these  being  half  filled  with  water  and  fixed  in 
position  on  the  show  boards. 

Gathering  and  Packing  Fruit. 

All  fruit  intended  for  exhibition  should  be 
perfectly  dry  when  gathered  and  as  nearly  ripe 
as  possible,  any  over-ripe  fruit  being  rejected. 
It  should  be  gathered  with  the  stems  attached  and 
be  handled  as  little  as  possible  ;  to  ensure  this,  it 
it  best  to  pack  straight  into  the  boxes  as  soon  as 
gathered.  Uniformity  in  size  and  shape  should 
be  the  first  consideration ;  in  gathering  such  fruits 
as  Grapes,  Peaches,  Apples  and  Pears  the  best 
coloured  specimens  must  be  selected,  even  if  one 
has  to  sacrifice  a  little  as  regards  size.  Boxes 
just  deep  enough  to  hold  a  single  layer  of  fruit 
should  be  used,  the  smaller  soft  fruits,  such  as 
Strawberries,  Raspberries,  Gooseberries  and 
Currants  being  packed  together  ;  for  these  the 
boxes  should  be  lined  with  Vine  or  Fig  leaves. 
The  larger  fruits,  such  as  Strawberries  and 
Gooseberries,  may  then  be  wrapped  separately  in 
leaves  and  packed  close  together,  the  smaller 
kinds  being  embedded  in  pockets  of  leaves,  and  all 
intervening  spaces  filled  in  ;  a  good  layer  of 
Vine,  Fig,  or  other  large  leaves  must  be  placed 
over  the  fruit  before  the  lid  is  placed  on.  The 
lid  should  be  tied  on,  not  nailed,  or  the  fruit 
may  be  damaged  when  opening  the  box. 

Grapes  are  best  packed  by  themselves,  either 
in  wooden  boxes  or  shallow  baskets  with  lids ; 
these  are  lined  with  cotton-wool,  wood-wool  or 
dry  moss,  over  which  is  placed  a  layer  of  white 
tissue  paper.  The  bunches  are  then  carefully 
secured  in  position  with  a  little  packing 
material.  The  stems  should  be  tied  to  the 
sides  of  the  basket,  or,  if  boxes  are  used,  to 
a  thin  cross  piece  of  wood  running  across  the 
centre.  A  layer  of  soft  paper  is  then  placed 
over  the  fruit  and  on  this  a  little  packing 
material.  It  is  a  little  difficult  to  pack  Grapes 
for  sending  by  rail  so  that  the  bloom  is  pre- 
served, and,  where  possible,  they  should  be  sent 
or  taken  by  hand. 

Peaches,  Nectarines,  Apricots  and  Plums  must 
be  packed  in  single  layers  in  shallow  boxes,  each 
fruit  being  wrapped  separately  in  soft  white 
paper  and  resting  on  a  bed  of  wood-wool  or 
cotton-wool  with  a  little  of  the  same  material 
placed  between  the  fruits  and  a  rather  thick 
layer  over  the  top.  Boxes  with  divisions,  each 
to  hold  one  fruit,  are  excellent  for  the  above 
fruits,  a  small  amount  of  packing  material  being 
placed  in  each  division  to  prevent  bruising. 
Apples  and  Pears  may  be  packed  in  a  similar 
manner.     Where  a  variety  of  exhibits  is  to  ba 


280 


THE    GARDEN. 


[June  12,  1909. 


sent,  the  boxes  ooDtaiDing  them  should  be  packed 
together  in  a  strong  case,  placing  the  largest  and 
least  perishable  fruit  at  the  bottom.  Care  must 
be  taken  that  all  exhibits  are  properly  labelled. 
Thiise  who  prefer  to  take  or  send  their  exhibits 
by  hand  will  find  large  cross-handled  baskets 
veiy  convenient,  especially  for  such  fruits  as 
(if apes,  Peaches  and  Plums.  The  fruit  ought  to 
rest  on  soft  packing  material  and  be  lightly 
covered  with  paper  tied  over  the  top. 

Prepabino  and  Packing  Vegetables. 
Although  not  so  liable  to  damage  as  flowers 
or  fruit,  vegetables  require  careful  packing  so 
that  they  may  be  staged  in  the  best  possible  con- 
dition. Potatoes  and  other  roots  should  be 
dealt  with  first,  and  in  selecting  for  exhibition 
choice  should  be  made  from  those  of  good  shape 
and  free  from  any  suspicion  of  coarseness  ;  they 
must  also  be  as  uniform  in  size  as  possible. 
Potatoes  should  have  firm,  smooth  skins,  and  are 
better  if  exposed  to  the  air  for  a  short  time  after 
lifting.  Carrots,  Beetroots  and  other  tap-rooted 
vegetables  should  be  of  clean  growth  and  free 
from  blemish.  All  roots  must  be  carefully  washed 
and  dried  in  a  cloth  before  packing.  In  the  case 
of  Carrots  and  Turnips  a  small  portion  of  the  top 
growth  should  be  retained.  All  exhibits  of  roots 
may  be  packed  together  in  a  strong  box,  using 
for  packing  material  wood-wool,  hay,  sawdust  or, 
indeed,  anything  which  will  prevent  the  roots 
from  being  bruised.  Each  root  should  be 
separately  wrapped  in  soft  white  paper.  Cauli- 
flowers, Broccoli,  Lettuces  and  other  exhibits  of 
a  similar  nature  may  be  packed  together.  The 
two  former  should  have  crisp  leaves  and  firm 
white  "flowers."  Lettuces  must  be  solid  and 
heavy.  In  each  case  remove  the  coarse  outer 
leaves  and  portion  of  the  stalk  and  pack  firmly 
with  the  heads  uppermost,  wrapping  each  plant 
in  paper.  Tomatoes  should  be  well  coloured, 
with  unbroken  skins.  They  are  best  packed  in 
single  layers  in  a  separate  box,  using  wood-wool 
or  cotton-wool  and  enclosing  each  separately  in 
tissue  paper.  Peas  and  Beans  may  be  packed 
together,  wrapping  up  each  pod  separately.  The 
pods  should  be  long  and  straight  and  not  too  old. 

Transmission  of  Exhibits. 

The  best  method  of  forwarding  exhibits  which 
cannot  be  taken  or  sent  by  hand  is  by  passenger 
train,  and  exhibitors  can  easily  ascertain  the 
approximate  time  which  will  be  taken  on  the 
journey.  Exhibits  should  not  be  sent  by  post, 
as  they  are  very  liable  to  be  damaged.  Addresses 
must  be  clearly  written,  and  the  mode  of  con- 
veyance and  the  particular  train  by  which  they 
are  to  travel  specified  on  the  label.  Boxes  should 
be  marked  "This  side  up"  and  "Perishable 
Fruit  "  or  "Flowers,"  as  the  case  may  be.  Boxes 
ought  to  be  strongly  made  but  not  too  heavy, 
and  should  be  of  a  convenient  size  for  handling. 
Exhibits  of  a  light  or  perishable  nature  must  be 
packed  in  separate  boxes.  For  a  small  extra 
charge  boxes  can  be  sent  at  the  company's  risk, 
and  this  is  advisable  in  all  oases.  Exhibitors  who 
intend  to  personally  take  their  exhibits  should 
have  their  boxes  or  baskets  furnished  with 
handles  or  straps  for  convenience  in  carrying. 
C.  W.  Caulfield. 

7,  Fetherston  Road,  Stanjord-le- Hope,  Essex. 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 

MAY  COMPETITION— AWARDS. 
In  this  competition  essays  on  "  The  Best 
Methods  of  CJathering,  Packing  and  Transmit- 
ting Flowers,  Fruits  and  Vegetables  for  Exhi- 
bition "  were  asked  for.  The  prizes  are  awarded 
as  follows  : 

First  prize  of  four  guineas  to  Mr.  C.  W. 
Caulfield,  7,  Fetherston  Road,  Stanford-le-Hope, 
Essex. 

Second  prize  of  two  guineas  to  Mr.  H.  Tomalin, 
Tower  Hill  Cottages,  Kingsolere,  near  Newbury, 
Berks. 


Third  prize  of  one  guinea  to  Mr.  E.  Argall, 
The  Old  Rectory  Gardens,  North  Petherton, 
Bridgwater,  Somerset. 

Fourth  prize  of  halt-a-guinea  to  Mr.  W.  H. 
Morton,  Ellamcote,  Gloucester. 

Owing  probably  to  the  subject  and  the  fact 
that  the  long  summer  days  are  now  here,  the 
essays  sent  in  were  not  so  numerous  as  usual. 
The  quality,  however,  was  generally  good. 
Those  from  the  following  are  highly  commended : 
Mr.  H.  L.  Sell,  Kempton  Villa,  Luton  :  Mr. 
W.  Waterton,  Heath  Farm  House  Gardens, 
Watford,  Herts  ;  and  Mr.  D.  E.  Elder,  Tyne 
Green,  Hexham,  Northumberland. 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK 

FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

June  16. — Grand  Yorkshire  Gala  (three  days). 
June  28. — Isle  of  Wight  Rose  Society. 
June  29. — Southampton    Royal    Horticultural 
Society's  Rose  Show  (two  days). 


"The   Garden"    Flower   Show.— 

This  will  take  place  oU'jTuly  2S  next,  as  recorded 
in  our  advertisement  columns.  We  may  remind 
our  readers  of  the  necessity  of  collecting  the 
coupons.  The  display  of  flowers  promises  to 
be  of  exceptional  interest  and  beauty. 
Leonapdslee  Gardens  In  June.— 

The  Azaleas  are  at  their  best  and  worth  a 
journey  of  many  miles  to  see.  Such  a  colour- 
picture  has  never  been  seen  before.  These  with 
the  Himalayan  Rhododendrons  Auoklandii, 
Fortunei,  cinnabarinum,  blandfordianum  and 
others,  with  also  our  seedlings,  are  very  beauti- 
ful.—W.  A.  Cook. 

The  British  Gardeners'  Associa- 
tion and  honorary  members.— At 
the  annual  general  meeting  it  was  decided,  after 
full  consideration,  that  employers  of  gardeners 
and  others  in  sympathy  with  the  aims  and  objects 
of  the  association  should  be  allowed  to  join  as 
honorary  members,  each  paying  a  minimum 
subscription  of  20s.  per  annum.  The  main  object 
of  this  resolution  is  to  bring  owners  of  gardens 
and  their  gardeners  more  closely  together  for 
mutual  benefit.  The  employer  will  be  assured 
of  having  a  gardener  who  knows  his  work,  and 
the  gardener  of  an  employer  who  will  recognise 
in  him  a  skilled  workman.  Anyone  wishing  to 
join  as  an  honorary  member  should  apply  to  the 
secretary,  British  Gardeners'  Association,  Talbot 
Villa,  Isleworth,  for  further  particulars. 

Rhododendrons  at  Regent's 
Park. — The  splendid  exhibition  of  Rhododen- 
drons arranged  by  Messrs.  John  Waterer  and 
Sons,  Limited,  of  Bagahot,  Surrey,  at  the  Royal 
Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's  Park,  London,  was 
opened  on  Thursday,  the  3rd  inst. ,  and  will  remain 
open  until  nearly  the  end  of  the  present  month. 
As  usual,  the  plants  shown  are  of  very  high  merit, 
the  many  and  varied  hued  trusses  of  flowers  with 
their  foils,  of  dark  green  leaves  providing  a 
beautiful  sight.  Roughly,  the  exhibition  forms  a 
sort  of  sunk  garden,  with  an  irregular-shaped 
border  filled  with  Rhododendrons  encircling  the 
whole.  Inside  this  gravel  paths  lead  visitors 
among  large  beds,  where  Rhododendrons,  fine 
plants  of  Kalmia  latif  olia  and  Viburnum  plicatum, 
with  Japanese  Maples  for  foliage,  are  most 
tastefully  arranged.  About  2,000  Rhododen- 
dron plants  are  on  view,  these  representing 
something  like  170  distinct  varieties,  many  of 
them  being  of  more  than  usual  beauty.  A  few 
that  we  considered  worthy  of  special  notice  were 
Mme.  Moser,  a  double-flowered  red  variety  that 
is  quite  new  ;  Mrs.  E.  C.  Stirling,  a  beautiful 
self  pale  pink,  the  flowers  being  absolutely  free 
from  spots ;  Gomer  Waterer,  white,  slightly 
flushed  with  pink  towards  the  edge,  the  trusses 
being  very  large  ;  Lady  Clementina  Walsh,  light 
cream,  edged  with  pink  and  possessing  a  delicate 
fragrance ;  Francis  B.  Hayes,  white,  with  black 


spots ;  Strategist,  delicate  pink  shade ;  and 
Dorothy  Fortescue,  dark  cherry  red.  Naturally, 
the  charming  Pink  Pearl  is  well  to  the  front,  a 
large  bed  being  nearly  filled  with  this  charming 
variety.  Those  who  desire  to  see  these  Rhodo- 
dendrons should  write  to  the  firm  at  Bagshot  for 
free  tickets  of  admission.  In  addition  to  the 
Rhododendrons  shown  by  Messrs.  Waterer, 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  of  King  Street,  Covent 
Garden,  are  showing  pigmy  trees  and  hardy 
flowers.  The  beautiful  gardens  look  exceedingly 
well  after  the  refreshing  rains  of  last  week,  and 
reflect  great  credit  on  the  able  superintendent, 
Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes. 

Messrs.    Stuart  Low   and    Co.— 

Most  of  us  regret  the  passing  of  an  old  name, 
but  this  week  sees  the  lapsing  of  a  name  which 
has  been  connected  with  horticulture  for  nearly 
100  years.  We  refer  to  the  firm  of  Messrs.  Hugh 
Low  and  Co. ,  the  name  of  which  is  so  familiar  to 
our  readers.  The  present  proprietor,  however, 
has  been  the  man  at  the  helm  for  the  past 
twenty-five  or  thirty  years,  and  the  name  of 
Stuart  Low  and  Co.  we  hope  has  as  bright  a 
future  before  it  as  the  old  firm  has  had  in  th& 
past.  A  son  of  the  late  Mr.  Stuart  H.  Low  of 
the  Clapton  Nurseries,  he  inherits  all  his  father's 
good  business  qualities,  coupled  with  an  up-to- 
date  style  of  doing  business  which  those  who- 
have  had  dealings  with  him  will  be  well  ac- 
quainted. Many  nurserymen  of  the  most  remote 
parts  of  the  country  will  remember  the  old  days 
at  Clapton.  His  son  is  a  past-president  of  the 
Horticultural  Trades'  Association,  a  member  of 
the  Orchid  committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  a  juryman  on  all  the  important  Conti- 
nental horticultural  exhibitions,  and  he  knows  a 
good  plant  when  he  sees  it,  be  it  either  Orchid,. 
Rose  or  fruit.  The  entire  staff  of  Hugh  Low 
and  Co.  will  assist  him  in  carrying  on  the 
business  of  the  late  firm,  and  this  includes 
at  least  two  veterans  of  half  a  century's  service' 
with  his  father  and  grandfather.  Mr.  Harry  A. 
Barnard  is  well  known  in  the  horticultural 
world,  and  perhaps  personally  acquainted  with 
the  greater  majority  of  our  readers  ;  Mr.  F.  W. 
Ashton  (late  of  Stanley,  Ashton  and  Co.)  will 
assist  as  Orchid  expert ;  Mr.  G.  F.  Salman  (late 
of  Dicksons  of  Chester)  is  a  plantsman  of  no 
mean  order  ;  and  the  younger  men  include 
Mr.  Laurence  J.  Cook  (hon.  treasurer  of  the 
Perpetual  Flowering  Carnation  Society),  who 
specialises  in  Roses  and  fruit  trees  ;  and  the 
enthusiastic  author  of  "  The  Perpetual  Flowering 
Carnation,"  Mr.  Montagu  C.  AUwood. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  it  not  responsible  for  the  opinion» 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


Polyanthus    Primroses.  —  Like 

"A.  I).,"  I  was  surprised  to  read  the  note  in  a 
recent  issue  from  Mr.  Watts  stating  that  these 
were  raised  by  a  Mr.  Walton.  If  Mr.  Watts 
will  refer  to  The  Gakiien  for  1S84,  he  will  find 
some  notices  in  the  March  issue  of  the  fine 
exhibits  made  then  from  Knap  Hill  Nurseries  in 
the  conservatory  at  South  Kensington,  showing 
the  fine  strains  that  existed  then.  These  ex- 
hibits are  still  fresh  in  the  memory  of  all  who- 
saw  them.  Some  few  years  previous  to  this  I 
began  working  at  this  fine,  hardy  spring  flower, 
considering  then,  as  I  do  now,  that  no  other 
gives  the  same  effect  and  duration  of  bloom  as 
these  do  at  the  same  cost,  and  from  that  time 
till  now  I  have  grown  each  year  thousands  of 
seedlings  from  selection  and  crosses  of  my  own, 
striving  each  year  to  obtain  some  new  colour  or 
improved  shade.  I  am  pleased  to  add  that 
this  season  they  are  considerably  in  advance  of 
any  previous  year.  During  this  season  a  great 
number  have  admired  the  Bronze  or  Old  Gold 
strain  I  possess,  but  this  would  be  ignored  by 
many.  — .John  Crook. 


JuNS  12,  1»09.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


287 


Tender  plants  and  the  winter.— 

Here  our  maximum  frost  waB  21  "o",  and  others 
nearly  as  severe.  My  standard  Ceanothus 
divarioatus  was  covered  every  night  by  a  mat 
during  severe  days.  Only  the  ends  of  the 
branches  have  died  down  ;  but  I  lost  one  last 
year  from  not  protecting  it  from  12°  of  frost. — E. 
Charrington,  Chamundi,  Limpsfield,  Surrey. 

An  early  wasps'  nest.— I  am  sending 
the  enclosed  photograph  of  a  wasps'  nest  that 


AN   EARLY   WASPS'   NEST. 

was  taken  at  Alton  on  Saturday,  May  'i-Z, 
probably  the  first  this  year. — A.  V.  Ames,  iJ4, 
Normandy  Street,  Alton,  Hants. 

A  cure  for  slugs.— "  Orange "  writes 
in  your  issue  dated  May  29  that  he  finds 
powdered  alum  an  absolute  remedy  for  slugs, 
but  does  not  say  how  he  uses  it.  Might  I  ask 
for  directions  ? — Scott. 

The  first  Rose  of  summer.- The 
first  Rose  to  bloom  in  my  garden  here  was 
Billard  et  Barre  on  May  21  on  a  south  wall, 
closely  followed  by  Lady  Waterlow,  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux  and  Conrad  F.  Meyer  in  the  order 
named,  the  two  former  also  on  a  south  wall. — 
W.  St.  p.  Bunbury,  Bedford. 

Carnations  at  the  Temple  Show. 
In  your  notice  re  Carnations  at  the  Temple  Show, 
the  variety  Progress,  exhibited  by  me,  is  not  a 
Carnation,  but  a  perpetual  -  flowering  Pink,  a 
cross  between  two  of  the  old  florists'  laced  Pinks. 

C.  H.  Herbert.      [We  specially  noticed  this 

flower,  which  is  a  most  welcome  addition  to  the 
Pink  family  ;  it  is  very  free  flowering  and  a 
good  novelty. — Ed.] 

A  complaint. — As  we  have  been  asked 
why,  after  exhibiting  for  so  many  years  at  the 
Temple  Show,  we  have  not  done  so  this  year, 
and  as  our  absence  may  give  rise  to  comment 
injurious  to  our  interests,  we  should  like  to  be 
allowed  to  explain  that  we  withdrew  our  applica- 
tion and  ceased  preparing  for  the  show  when  we 
found  that  only  30  square  feet  (about  7i  feet  by 
i  feet)  of  space  could  be  allotted  to  us.  The 
smallness  of  the  area  given  to  us  last  year 
(50  feet)  created  an  impression  sufficiently 
detrimental  to  our  business.  We  are  glad  that 
the  show  is  so  deservedly  popular,  but  are  sorry 
that  an  area  sufficient  to  show  ofl'  leading  exhibits 
suitably  cannot  in  each  case  be  provided,  and 
that,  therefore,  for  the  first  time  we  were  not 
able  to  be  represented.  We  were  not  present, 
but  we  are  told  that  large  banks  of  strains  of 
seedling  plants  and  other  groups  or  repetitive 
exhibits  were  accepted  from  other  firms,  occupied 
considerable  space,  and  were  naturally  much 
admired. — Kelway  and  Son. 

A  fine  Cineraria  (Antique  Rose). 
As  the  time  for  sowing  seed  to  produce  plants  for 
next  season's  display  is  at  hand,  a  few  words 
regarding  this  beautiful  new  Cineraria  may  be  of 
some  interest.  It  is  well  named  Antique  Rose, 
and  this  fully  describes  the  lovely  shade  of 
warm  rose  of  this  sterling  novelty.  In  habit 
the  plants  are  dwarf  and  spreading,  and  produce 
their  large  flowers  in  wonderful  profusion.     I 


hope  that  this  lovely  colour  may  be  transmitted 
to  the  Star  varieties,  as  the  shade  is  telling  when 
the  flowers  are  used  for  room  decoration.  It 
shows  up  well  under  artificial  light,  and  is 
indeed  worthy  of  greatly  extended  cultivation. 
— C.  Blair,  Preston  House,  Linlithgow. 
Narcissus  White  Star.— I  enclose  a 

photograph  I  took  of  White  Star  (shown  by  Mr. 
P.  D.  Williams)  at  Birmingham  in  April. 
Mr.  Jacob  describes  it  in  The  Garden  of  May  8 
as  an  inoomparabilis.  It  is  quite  refreshing  to 
hear  Mr.  Jacob  speaking  in  the  old  familiar 
terms  and  not  attempting  to  classify  this  flower 
as  a  medium  cup  for  instance  ;  at  the  same  time, 
I  should  be  inclined  myself  to  class  this  flower 
as  an  Engleheartii.  Lowdham  Beauty  seems 
rather  a  troublesome  flower  to  classify,  too,  but 
I  do  not  think  Mr.  Jacob  could  improve  on  the 
term  Giant  Leedsii,  which  seems  so  exactly  to 
describe  this  type  of  flower.  White  Star  is, 
indeed,  a  beautiful  flower  and  promises  to  be 
very  useful  outside  the  show. — W.  A.  Watts, 
North  Wales. 


IRISH    NOTES. 

GLASNEVIN  is  suffering  greatly  this 
year  from  late  frosts ;  the  Potatoes 
were  blackened  on  Sunday,  May  9, 
and  the  following  week  the  ther- 
mometer registered  frost  nearly 
every  morning.  Trees  and  shrubs 
show  the  effects  of  this  harsh  weather  and  cutting 
winds.  Some  Rhododendrons  lost  their  flowers, 
the  growing  shoots  of  Platanus  and  Pterocarya 
having  also  shrivelled  up.  Many  strong  and 
sturdy  flowering  stems  of  Primula  japonica  and 
P.  pulverulenta  have  bowed  their  heads  to  the 
enemy.  Some  of  the  Spirfeas,  Polygonums  and 
even  the  hardy  Ferns  had  their  soft  shoots  and 
fronds  injured.  But  in  spite  of  these  drawbacks 
we  have  some  compensations,  for  the  flowering 
trees  and  shrubs  are  most  lavish  in  their  display. 
Cherries,  Barberries,  Prunuses,  &c. ,  are  a  mass 
of  flower,  while  a  well-shaped  specimen  of  Pyrus 
floribunda,  20  feet  high  by  20  feet  through,  is 
literally  smothered  in  pink  blossom. 

Among  the  more  uncommon  plants  in  flower 
there  is  a  fine  specimen  of  Sophora  tetraptera,  a 
native  of  New  Zealand.  Originally  it  was  planted 
against  a  wall  about  12  feet  high,  but  was  allowed 
to  overgrow  this  protection,  and  now  reaches 
26  feet  in  height.  Where  protection  is  afforded 
by  the  wall  the  tree  is  evergreen ;  above  this  wall 
it  looks  like  an  early  flowering  deciduous  tree. 
The  foliage  is  quite  ornamental.  The  pinnate 
leaves  are  6  inches  long,  bearing  about  twenty  to 
thirty  pairs  of  leaflets.  The  flowers  are  yellow, 
U  inches  in  length  and  borne  on  short  pendulous 
racemes.  One  wonders  why  the  specific  name 
tetraptera  (four  wings)  was  given  until  the 
autumn,  when  the  tree  produces  a  curious  four- 
winged,  pod-like   fruit   constricted   above   each 


Lupinus  lepidus  is  a  native  of  North- West 
America  and  was  introduced  in  1826,  but  has 
become  extremely  rare  in  cultivation.  It  is  a 
very  local  species,  found  growing  from  Fort 
Vancouver  to  the  (xreat  Falls  of  the  Columbia 
on  dry,  elevated  banks  of  streams.  It  is  a 
charming  plant,  here  reaching  2  feet  high  with 
the  habit  of  the  Tree  Lupine,  unfortunately  of 
doubtful  hardiness.  The  leaves  consist  of  seven 
leaflets  covered  with  silky  hairs  on  both  surfaces, 
giving  the  appearance  of  glistening  silver  ;  even 
when  compared  with  the  leaves  of  the  Silver 
Tree  (Leuoadendron)  it  suffers  no  deterioration. 
The  standard  of  the  flower  of  this  Lupine  is 
veined  with  purplish  blue,  with  a  creamy  white 
spot  at  the  base  ;  the  wings  are  the  same  colour, 
the  keel  being  white,  tipped  with  dark  purple. 
Propagation  is  by  no  means  an  easy  matter. 
Cuttings  are  diflScult  torootand  seeds  are  sparingly 
produced  even  when  the  flowers  are  pollinated, 
but  it  can  be  grafted  upon  Lupinus  arboreus. 
The    new    Deeaisnea   Fargesii    from  China  has 


passed  the  winter  safely  against  a  wall  facing 
south-west,  and  was  just  unfolding  its  greenish 
flowered  raceme  when  the  frost  made  short  work 
of  the  early  flowers. 

On  the  same  wall  Akebia  quinata  escaped 
without  injury.  It  is  a  climbing  raonceoious 
shrub  bearing  quaint,  fragrant,  claret-coloured 
flowers.  Male  and  female  flowers  are  produced 
on  the  same  raceme,  the  males  being  the  more 
numerous,  but  only  about  one-third  the  size  of 
the  female  flowers  and  with  only  two  petals, 
whereas  the  females  have  three  boaf-shaped 
petals. 

Pittosporum  bicolor  is  an  Australian  species,  and 
has  been  flowering  through  April  and  May.  It  is 
an  interesting  evergreen  shrub,  but  only  suit- 
able for  mild  districts.  The  flowers  are  rather 
small  and  bell-shaped.  Before  opening  they  are 
tinged  with  red ;  as  they  open  the  petals 
become  recurved  and  appear  yellow.  The 
leaves  are  1  inch  in  length,  the  under-surface 
covered  by  a  buff  tomentum.  Against  a  wall  it 
has  reached  10  feet  in  height,  but  in  the  open, 
without  protection,  is  only  4  feet  high. 

A  heavy  shower  of  hail  has  helped  Paionia 
Mlokosewitsehii  (P.  wittmanniana  tomentosa)  to 
shed  its  petals.  However,  it  is  not  a  great  loss, 
and  one  can  only  regret  that  the  colour  is  not  so 
good  a  yellow  as  figured  in  the  Botanical 
Magazine,  t.  8173.  The  foliage  is  certainly  bold 
and  handsome,  and  in  vigour  the  newcomer  is  a 
great  improvement  upon  P.  wittmanniana. 

The  new  Paeonia  Cambessedesii  is  the  earliest 
to  flower  at  Glasnevin,  opening  in  April.  The 
flowers  are  solitary,  of  a  deep  rose  pink  and  about 
3h  inches  to  4  inches  across  ;  the  plant  is  dwarf, 
only  reaching  li  feet  to  2  feet  high.  The  most 
striking  point  about  the  plant  is  the  bright 
crimson  colour  of  the  stems  and  young  leaves  in 
spring.  Though  many  other  forms  are  bright  in 
this  way,  yet  none  can  compare  with  this  new 


narcissus  white  stab.       Reduced.) 

species  in  this  respect.  P.  Cambessedesii  was 
collected  by  Miss  Frances  Geoghegan  of  County 
Dublin  in  the  Island  of  Majorca,  where  it  was 
found  growing  in  a  rocky  and  almost  inaccessible 
spot  on  Cape  Formentor.  Miss  Geoghegan  kindly 
presented  her  plant  to  enrich  the  Glasnevin 
collection,  t.  8161  of  the  Botanical  Magazine 
being  figured  from  this  plant.  C.  F.  Ball. 

Botanic  Gardens,  Glasnevin,  County  Dublin. 


288 


THE    GARDEN. 


[June  12, 1909. 


A  TRIBUTE  TO  MR.  HARRY 
J.  VEITCH,  F.L.S.,  V.M.H. 

A  Prbskktation. 

I'l'  WiiB  with  unfeigned  pleasure  we  published 
a  nolo  recently  m  'l"iin  Gakukn  signed  by 
the  liev.  W.  Wilks,  seeretiiry  of  the  Koyal 
Horticultural  Society,  anil  Mr.   II.  I!.  May 
asking  for  subscriptions  towards  defraying 
the  cost  of   a  portrait  of    Mr.   Harry  .J. 
Veitch,  to  be  presented  to  him  and  then  placed  on 
the  walls  of   the  Council  (Ihamber  of  the  society 
in  Vincent  Scjuare,  in  which  many  of  the   most 
celebrated  of  scientists  and   horticulturists  seem 
to  speak  to  us  of  the  past  from 
those      famous     canvases.       Six 
hundred  guineas    are  asked  for, 
and    so    spontaneous     has    been 
the    response,    testifying   to    the 
worth   of  a  man  who  has  earned 
the  respect  of  all  with  whom  he 
has  oomo  in  contact,  that  this  sum 
has  been  in  great  part  subBcri bed. 
We  have  known  Mr.  Veitoh  for 
many  years,  worked   with  him  in 
conne.vion  with  the  Horticultural 
Club,  known  the  many  dilliculties 
through  which  he  has  passed,  and 
his  example  is  one  for  all  young 
men  to  strive  and    follow.     We 
write  this  in  no  maudlin  spirit. 
His  love  of  flowers,  his  devotion 
to    everything    that    makes    for 
good  in  the  horticultural  world, 
and    his    intense    and    practical 
interest  in   those  who  are  needy 
will  leave  an  unfading  memory. 
Mr.  Harry  Veitoh  is  a  splendid 
type  of  I'Inglishman,  and  wo  look 
forward  to  the  presentation  with 
delight.        We     anticipate     the 
warmth  of  his  reception,  and  we 
hope  Mrs.  Veitoh  will  be  present 
also  to  share  in  the  outburst  of 
affection  that  will  bo  meted  out 
to  one  of  the  foremost  horticul- 
turists of  the  present  generation. 
The  midsummer  volume  of  Tiik 
Oardkn,  I'.tol,  was  dedicated  to 
Mr.  Veitch,  and  there  we  mention 
that    "  Throughout    the    world, 
wherever  horticulture  has  gained 
the  affections  of  the  people,  the 
name   of    Veitch    is     honoured. 
Mr.    Veitoh    is    known    for    his 
splendid   business   capacity   and 
his  untiring  energy  in  promoting 
good  work.    Mr.  Harry  J.  Veitoh 
was  born   on  June   2'.),   1H40,  at 
Kxeter,  and  received  his  educa- 
tion   at    the     Exeter    (irammar 
School    and    in    (lermany.      He 
afterwards  attended  the   course 
of   botanical   lectures   given    by 
Dr.   Lindley  at   the    University 
College,  and    gained    an  insight 
into   the  working    of    the    seed 
department  of  the  business,  which 
he  was  soon   to   manage,   in  the 
establishment  of  Messrs.  Vilmorin  at  Paris.    Mr. 
Veitch  commenced  work  in  the  Chelsea  Nurseries 
now  over  fifty  years  ago,  when  his  activity  soon 
became  apparent.  When  it  was  determined  to  hold 
the  Great  International  Horticultural  Exhibition 
in  lHf>6  in  London  he  entered  with  zest  into  the 
work,    forming  one  of   the   general    committee 
and  of  many  of    the    sub-committees.     At   the 
continental  horticultural  gatheringp  during  the 
past  thirty  or    forty  years   Mr.    Veitch  was  a 
constant  visitor,  and  it  is  interesting  to  know 
he  was  present  at  the   first  International  exhibi- 
tion  ever  held   in  Russia,  this  occurring  at  St. 
Petersburg  in  the  spring  of  I  SG'.t,  when  the  party 
— among    whom    were   Sir    .loseph  Hooker,  the 
lote  Dr.    Robert  Hogg,  Dr.  Moore  of  Glasnevin 
and     Mr.     Robert      Warner  —  were     cordially 


welcomed  by  the  Czar.  Through  the  death  of 
his  father  and  elder  brother,  whose  health  failed 
in  1807 — the  former  dying  in  September,  18(59, 
and  the  latter  in  August,  1870— Mr.  Veitch 
became  head  of  the  firm  of  .Tames  Veitch  and 
Sons,  and  during  this  prosperous  period  of  its 
history  he  published  two  works  that  have 
obtained  a  world-wide  popularity  as  important 
contributions  to  the  subjects  of  Conifers  and 
Orchids,  namely,  the  '  Manual  of  Conifera,' '  and 
the  'Manual  of  Orchids.'  The  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  has  ever  received  Mr.  Veitch's 
strong  and  constant  support.  He  first  joined  the 
council  when  the  society  removed  from  South 
Kensington,  and  is  still  a  member  of  that  body. 


philanthropic  institutions  in  which  he  is 
interested  ;  but  in  his  beautiful  home  at  East 
Burnham,  close  to  the  glorious  Burnham  Beeches, 
he  works  unostentatiously  to  promote  the 
welfare  of  his  fellow-men.  Many  are  the  tokens 
of  the  esteem  in  which  Mr.  Veitoh  and  Mrs. 
Veitoh  are  held  by  those  with  whom  during  a 
busy  and  happy  lile  they  have  been  brought 
into  contact,  and  when  their  silver  wedding  was 
celebrated  a  few  years  ago,  friends  at  home 
and  abroad  acknowledged  by  many  beautiful 
j  gifts  their  joy  that  this  distinguished  horticul- 
turist and  his  wife  had  been  spared  to  celebrate 
so  happy  an  event." 

Subscriptions  should  be  sent  to  either  the  Rev. 
W.  Wilks,  Royal  Horticultural 
Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westmin- 
ster, or  to  Mr.  H.  15.  May  at 
ihe  same  address. 


BRYONY. 


R 


MR.    HABEY   J.    VEITCH,    F.L.S.,    V.M.JI. 

adding  to  this  important  duty  his  chairmanship 
of  the  Orchid  committee. 

"It  is  almost  unnecessary  to  write  of  Mr. 
Veitch's  perennial  interest  in  the  Gardeners' 
Royal  Benevolent  Institution.  He  has  filled  the 
olfioe  of  treasurer  since  ISSfi,  and  since  the 
retirement  of  the  late  Mr.  John  Lee  from  the 
position  of  chairman  of  committee,  Mr.  Veitch 
has  filled  that  post  also.  During  that  period 
the  institution  has  grown  in  influence  and 
strength,  widening,  too,  its  basis  of  operations 
through  the  Victorian  Era  and  Good  Samaritan 
funds,  both  inaugurated  during  recent  years. 
In  addition  to  this  Mr.  Veitoh  was  active  in 
forming  the  Royal  Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund. 

"It  is  impossible  to  enumerate  the  many 
societies  to  which  Mr.  Veitoh  belongs,  and  the 


ECENTLY  I  drew 
attention  to  the 
decorative  value  of 
one  of  our  wild 
flowers,  the  large 
Convolvulus.  There 
is  yet  another  of  our  common 
hedgerow  climbers  which  has  not 
received  any  appreciation,  but 
which  could  be  utilised  with  great 
effect  in  well-selected  parts  of  a 
garden.  Though  a  beautiful 
object,  it  is  overlooked  by  the 
majority ;  but  those  who  have 
once  singled  it  out  from  among 
the  tangle  of  a  hedge  will  never 
pass  it  by  again.'  Its  exoeptional 
beauty,  particularly  in  late 
summer,  forces  the  recognition 
which  it  deserves.  This  plant, 
known  as  Black  Bryony,  valuable 
on  account  of  its  unsurpassed 
foliage,  with  its  leaves  of  polished 
surface  and  of  perfect  form,  the 
colour  of  which  ranges  from  a 
deep  green  through  all  grades  of 
pale  brown  to  richest  mahogany, 
mounting  and  embroidering  the 
hedgerows,  makes  one  of  the 
most  exquisite  and  finished  gar- 
lands it  is  possible  to  see.  The 
great  ropes  of  green  berries,  too, 
which  later  go  to  red,  are  orna- 
mental in  the  extreme,  and  one 
is  glad  to  feel  that  so  much  beauty 
is  common  enough  to  give  one 
hope  of  finding  it  over  the  greater 
part  of  our  island.  Clambering 
about  in  association  with  the 
lovely  white  Convolvulus  the  two 
make  a  most  effective  combina- 
tion, and  one  that  might  well  be 
intentionally  produced  in  the  wild 
parts  of  a  garden. 

Those  who  wish  to  introduce  it 
must  be  careful  to  ask  for  Tamus 
oommunis,  and  not  confuse  it 
with  another  plant  with  which  it  has  no  con- 
nexion, the  true  Bryony  (Bryonia),  a  wild  plant 
not  so  frequently  met  with  nor  possessing  the 
absolute  perfection  of  finish  of  our  Black  Bryony, 
the  leaf  having  more  the  sculpture  of  an  Ivy  or 
Hop  form,  and  wanting  in  the  high  polish  of  the 
other.  This  Bryonia  is  also  known  as  White 
Bryony  and  Red-berried  Bryony,  which  adds  to 
the  confusion,  for  the  names  hardly  serve  to 
distinguish  it  at  all,  seeing  that  the  flowers  of 
both  plants,  small  and  inconspicuous,  are  more 
or  less  whitish  and  the  berries  of  both  turn  to 
autumn  red. 

A  detail  which  may  be  of  interest  to  many  is 
that  each  of  these  plants  is  a  sole  representative 
of  its  particular  class  in  this  country. 

E.  ClIKOWKN. 


June  12,  1909,1 


THE     GARDEN. 


289 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


THE    HARDY    PRIMULAS. 

(Continued  jrom  par,e  J!'S.) 

PRIMULA  CAPITELLATA,  from  Asia 
Minor,  may  be  deeoribed  as  a 
small  P.  dentioulata,  with  flowers 
almost  like  those  of  P.  farinosa. 
It  is  a  bog  plant  and  requires  plenty 
of  moisture. 

P.  camiolica  is  a  rare  and  distinct  plant  from 
the  Alps  of  Corinthia  at  3,000  feet  to  4,000  feet 
elevation.  It  has  smooth  green  leaves  in  a 
rosette,  and  elegant  heads  of  bluish  purple 
flowers.  It  thrives  best  in  a  half-shady  position, 
planted  in  gritty  soil,  or  wedged  between  rooks 
in  a  sloping  position.  Free  growing,  it  often 
forms  large  tufts,  and  has  also  been  known  under 
the  name  of  multiceps. 

P.  clusiana. — One  of  the  most  beautiful  species 
contained  in  the  genus,  and  a  native  of  the 
calcareous  Alps  of  Austria,  growing  on  high 
elevations.  It  has  dark  green  leaves  slightly 
margined  with  white,  while  the  large  violet 
carmine  flowers  are  very  ornamental.  It  differs 
from  P.  glaucesoens,  which  is  often  sold  for 
it,  in  having  the  petals  out  or  divided  down  to 
the  middle.  A  free  grower,  P.  clusiana  succeeds 
well  in  halt-shade,  planted  in  stony  soil.  It 
flowers  in  April. 

P.  cockbumiana  is  one  of  the  plants  recently 
introduced  by  Messrs.  Veitoh  from  Western 
China.  The  bright  orange  scarlet  colour  of  the 
flowers  is  unique  in  the  genus,  and  should  be  of 
great  value  to  the  hybridist.  In  its  native 
habitat  it  is  said  to  grow  in  wet  alpine  meadows 
at  an  elevation  of  over  10,000  feet.  The 
Primrose-like  leaves  are  produced  in  a  rosette, 
from  which  the  erect  flower-scapes  rise  to  a 
height  of  from  8  inches  to  over  1  foot,  bearing 
three  or  more  whorls  of  flowers,  each  one 
about  1  inoh  in  diameter.  Unfortunately  it 
is  only  a  biennial,  but  it  produces  seeds 
freely,  and  they  germinate  quickly  if  sown 
as  soon  as  ripe.  If  grown  in  a  cold  frame 
and  potted  on,  they  will  make  flowering 
plants  the  following  early  summer.  It  should 
be  grown  in  rich  sandy  loam  and  leaf-soil,  and 
likes  a  somewhat  shady  position  with  plenty  of 
moisture. 

P.  cognata  comes  from  the  same  country  and 
was  also  introduced  by  Messrs.  Veitch.  It 
is  a  bog  plant  and  closely  allied  to  our 
native  P.  farinosa,  but  is  somewhat  larger  in 
all  its  parts.  It  requires  the  same  treatment  as 
P.  farinosa. 

P.  corlusoides. — This  Siberian  plant  is  one  of 
the  easiest  to  grow,  being  quite  hardy  in 
this  country.  The  leaves  are  soft,  wrinkled, 
slightly  lobed,  and  much  resemble  those  of 
Cortusa  Matthiolii,  while  the  deep  rose-coloured 
flowers  are  borne  in  umbels  on  stems  about 
9  inches  long.  A  shady  position,  rich  loamy  soil 
with  plenty  of  sand  and  leaf-mould,  are  suitable 
for  this  plant.  The  Japanese  form  of  this  species, 
P.  cortusoides  var.  Sieboldii  (syn.  P.  amojna)  is 
a  much  superior  plant,  with  larger  flowers 
varying  in  colour  from  white  to  purple.  There 
are  a  great  number  of  beautiful  hybrids  in 
cultivation.  They  flower  in  spring  and  the 
foliage  dies  down  early. 

P.  Gotlia  grows  in  fissures  of  rooks  in  the 
Cottian  Alps  at  an  elevation  of  about  5,000  feet. 
It  is  closely  allied  to  P.  villosa,  with  bright  rose 
purple  flowers  in  April. 

P  dejlexa. — A  recent  introduction  from  the 
mountain  woods  of  Western  China,  where  it 
ocours  at  elevations  of  10,000  feet  to  13,000  feet. 
The  plant  forms  a  rosette  of  leaves  about  4  inches 
in  length,  hairy  on  both  surfaces.  The  flowers, 
produced  in  a  dense  head  on  a  stem  about  1  foot 
high,  are  of  a  charming  rose  purple  colour,  but 
are  individually  small  and  all  deflexed.  It  is 
also  a  biennial  and  needs  the  same  treatment  as 
P.  cockburniana. 


P.  denticulata  is  a  handsome  and  noble  plant 
from  the  Himalayas,  and  is  deservedly  well 
known  and  much  appreciated  in  gardens.  It  is 
a  valuable  plant  for  naturalising  in  moist,  shady 
places  like  Fern  borders,  where  it  will  establish 
itself  and  produce  numerous  self-sown  seedlings. 
In  rich  soil  it  is  very  robust,  producing  large 
leaves  in  rosettes  and  stout  scapes  1  foot  high, 
bearing  globular  heads  of  deep  lilac  flowers.  It 
is,  however,  variable  in  colour,  and  there  is  a 
pure     white-flowered      variety.        Although     a 

Eerennial  and  flowering  annually,  the  best 
looms  are  always  produced  by  seedlings  the 
second  year.  Seed  germinates  freely  when  sown 
either  as  soon  as  it  is  ripe  or  kept  till  the 
following  spring.     A  distinct  plant  is 

P.  denticulata  var.  caahmiriana,  which  has 
leaves  that  are  covered  on  the  under-side  with 
mealy  powder  of  a  bright  yellow  colour.  Like  the 
last  it  also  flowers  in  spring,  and  is  a  charming 
plant  for  the  moister  parts  of  the  rook  garden. 
The  flowers  are  light  purple  in  colour,  in  heads 
like  the  type. 

P.  (leorum. — One  of  the  rarest  of  the  beautiful 
alpine  species  from  Bulgaria.  It  is  .i  bog  plant 
and  requires  abundant  moisture  in  which  to 
grow.      Although  introduced  in  the  year  1891, 


short-lived  and  requires  the  same  position  and 
treatment  as  P.  dentioulata. 

P.  Jariuosa  (The  Bird's  Eye  Primula),  which 
is  found  in  many  parts  of  this  country,  is  very 
appropriately  named,  being  covered  all  over  with 
a  white  mealy  powder,  which  gives  it  a  silvery 
appearance.  It  is  a  bog  plant  and  enjoys  a  damp, 
half-shady  position  among  other  small-growing 
subjects  of  similar  habit.  In  winter  the  plant 
forms  a  bud  just  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  so 
that  it  is  necessary  to  be  careful  when  weeding 
among  them,  as  they  are  easily  carried  away. 
If  planted  too  deeply  the  buds  rot,  and  snails  are 
also  very  fond  of  them.  The  lilac  flowers  have  a 
yellow  centre  and  are  produced  in  dense  umbels 
from  April  to  June.  Seeds  sown  in  sandy  soil 
and  kept  moist  germinate  freely.  P.  farinosa 
var.  sootica  is  a  dwarfer  plant,  with  distinct 
flowers  of  a  deeper  purple  colour. 
{To  be  continued.) 


SAXIFRAUA    DECIPIENS    MISS 
WILLMOTT. 

Tins  is  a  very  pretty  addition  to  the  mossy 
Saxifrages,  and,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  illustra- 
tion, is  a  remarkably  free-flowering  variety.    The 


•I'lIK    NEW    SAMFRAdA    (UOCK  KOI  I.)    DUririKNS    MISS    WIl.LMdTT. 


it  has  not  been  plentiful  till  recently,  when  a 
fresh  supply  was  received.  The  leaves  are  long 
and  strap-shaped,  and  the  rich  rosy  purple 
flowers  are  produced  freely  in  many-flowered 
umbels.  It  is  an  excellent  plant  for  culture  in 
pans,  which  should  be  stood  in  a  saucer  of 
water  during  the  growing  season.  A  mixture  of 
peat  and  loam  with  sand  should  be  used  for 
potting. 

P.  elatior. — The  Oxlip  is  found  in  abundance 
on  the  Continent  of  Europe,  and  is  also  fre- 
quently met  with  in  parts  of  this  country.  Its 
natural  home  is  in  moist  meadows  and  woods, 
and  it  is  therefore  a  suitable  plant  for  naturalising 
in  such  places  and  also  in  borders  among  Ferns. 
If  the  ground  is  kept  loose  on  the  surface,  it  will 
spread  freely  by  means  of  self-sown  seedlings. 
There  are  many  varieties  of  this  species  in  culti 
vation  with  flowers  of  various  shades  of  purple, 
all  of  which  are  easily  increased  by  division  of 
the  root  in  autumn  o  iby  seeds. 

P.  eroea. — This  Himalayan  plant  closely 
resembles  some  of  the  forms  of  P.  dentioulata, 
but  differs  in  having  a  rhizome  without  fleshy 
scales  and  by  its  regularly  toothed  leaves.  It  is 
a  scaroe  plant,  with  heads  of  light  lavender 
flowers  having  a  silvery  powdered  calyx.     It  is 


blossoms  are  a  pleasing  shade  of  pink,  the  colour 
deepening  towards  the  bases  of  the  petals.  When 
shown  before  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  on 
the  18th  ult.  by  Bakers,  Limited,  of  Wolver- 
hampton, it  reoeivid  an  award  of  merit. 


TWO  GOOD  WALLFLOWERS. 
Dwarf  Nut  Buown  and  Sutton's  Dwarf  Yellow 
we  have  had  in  flower  here  for  the  first  time  at 
Shendish,  and  I  cannot  speak  too  highly  of  them 
for  bedding,  being  far  superior  to  anv  other 
varieties  I  have  used  for  this  purpose.  In  each 
case  the  plants  are  more  bushy,  dwarfer,  and  the 
flowers  larger  and  more  numerous  than  those  of 
the  older  varieties,  while  the  colours  are  every- 
thing to  be  desired  where  contrasts  are  aimed  at. 
Generally  speaking.  Wallflowers  have  been  a 
miserable  failure  in  this  district,  especially  among 
the  taller  varieties,  but  I  have  not  noticed  a 
single  defect  in  either  of  the  two  above  mentioned, 
they  having  stood  the  remarkably  cold  weather 
in  March  well.  For  a  number  of  years  we  have 
planted  between  5,000  and  G,0(X)  plants  here,  but 
we  shall  certainly  discard  all  old  varieties  now 
for  them.  G.  Burrows. 

Shendiih  Oardenn,  Urmil  Hempstead. 


290 


THE    GARDEN. 


3ttne  12,  1909. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

HEAVILY  CROPPED  TREES.— The 
majority  of  trees  are  carrying 
splendid  crops  of  fruit  this  season, 
and  the  chances  are  that,  even 
after  the  thinning  is  completed,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  give  direct 
aid  to  the  roots  in  order  to  ensure  the  fruits 
being  brought  to  perfection.  It  is,  of  course, 
true  that  the  crops  will  finish,  provided 
there  is  a  reasonable  amount  of  available 
nutriment  in  the  soil,  but  in  this  ease  the  quality 
will  not  be  quite  as  fine  as  it  ought  to  be,  and 
the  stored  energies  of  the  tree  will  be  severely 
taxed.  Beyond  this,  to  force  the  tree  to  carry 
all  that  it  possibly  can  with  the  minimum  of  food 
in  the  soil  is  prejudicing  the  subsequent  crops, 
for  at  the  same  time  as  the  crop  for  the  one 
season  is  being  perfected  the  foundation  for  the 
next  season  is  being  laid.  Obviously  one  would 
not  suggest  excessive  feeding,  but  simply  that 
the  grower  shall  err  a  little  on  the  side  of 
generosity.  One  of  the  most  important  points  is 
to  maintain  the  soil  about  the  roots  in  a 
constantly  moist  condition — never  wet  and  never 
dry — by  the  aid  of  pure  water,  but  these  applica- 
tions should  be  supplemented  occasionally  with 
weak  liquid  manure.  Just  what  form  this  will 
take  is  governed  only  by  the  conveniences  of  each 
grower,  since  any  material  yielding  a  complete 
plant  food  will  answer  the  demands  made  upon 
it  to  the  full  satisfaction  of  the  grower. 
1 '  Gkass  for  Stbaweebeies.  —  Where  it  is 
difficult    or     impossible     to    procure    sufficient 


suitable  spreading  material,  the  grower  should 
put  twiggy  sticks  to  each  truss  of  fruit,  or  stout 
sticks  at  each  end  of  the  line,  with  smaller  ones 
at  intervals  between  them,  and  stretch  string 
from  one  to  the  other,  hanging  the  trusses  of 
fruit  upon  it.  These  things  involve  a  little 
trouble,  but  they  answer  capitallj'  as  makeshifts. 
Thinniki;  Fruits. — In  the  case  of  stone 
fruits  on  walls,  this  operation  commenced  some 
time  baok  by  the  removal  of  misplaced  fruits  and 
those  that  were  in  any  respect  malformed,  this 
early  removal  giving  a  better  chance  for  those 
retained  to  stone  properly.  Now  with  these  and 
other  kinds  the  process  must  be  maintained, 
adopting  the  rule  of  thinning  gradually  rather 
than  of  taking  away  many  fruits  at  one  time. 
It  is  quite  impossible  for  any  definite  instructions 
to  be  given  as  to  how  many  fruits  should  be 
retained  for  finishing  ;  advice  is  occasionally 
given  on  the  point,  but  it  can  only  be  in 
generalities,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the 
condition  of  the  tree  and  the  variety  must  be  the 
governing  factors.  It  is  far  wiser  for  each 
grower  to  exercise  his  own  common  sense,  taking 
strict  notes  of  the  numbers  retained,  the 
condition  to  which  the  fruit  attains  when  ripe 
and  the  crop  that  the  plant  carries  in  the 
succeeding  year.  Thus  he  will  learn  by 
experience  just  what  each  tree  will  do  ;  and  this 
is  a  far   better  teacher  than    recommendations 


^-^^|m,^ 


THE   NEW  ROSE  COQUINA.     (tTntural  size.) 


supplies  of  clean  grass  for  placing  between  the 
rows  of  Strawberries,  with  a  view  to  forming  a 
clean  bed  on  which  the  swelling  fruits  may  lie, 
amateurs  are  sometimes  tempted  to  have  recourse 
to  lawn  mowings  for  the  purpose.  This  is  a 
mistake  that  must  be  avoided  in  all  circumstances, 
for  it  is  impossible  to  utilise  material  more  totally 
unfitted  for  ripening  fruits  to  touch  or  even 
to  be  near.  The  cuttings  settle  down  into  a 
mass  and  commence  to  decompose,  and  in 
this  process  they  are  the  reverse  of  pleasant 
and  will  contaminate  any  fruits  that  are  con- 
tiguous   to    them.       Failing    the    command    of 


from  someone  who  has  absolutely  no  knowledge 
of  the  trees  or  their  condition. 

HoElKG. — This  is  one  of  the  must  important  of 
all  operations  in  the  fruit  quarters.  By  its  aid 
we  not  only  prevent  weeds  from  growing  and 
robbing  the  crops  of  the  indispensable  food, 
but  we,  at  the  same  time,  conserve  the 
moisture  and  the  food  in  the  soil.  Provided 
that  the  soil  is  in  proper  condition,  it  is  im- 
possible to  use  the  hoe  too  frequently,  giving 
the  Dutch  or  pushing  hoe  the  preference  as 
a  rule,  but  always  going  to  the  cutting  hoe  at 
intervals,  Frdit-orowkr. 


HINTS    ON    VINE    CULTUEE. 
(Continued    from   page    177. J 

Stopping  and  Training  the  Shoots. — A  Vine 
when  it  is  healthy  grows  very  rapidly,  but 
unless  the  shoots  are  regulated,  that  is,  duly 
stopped  and  trained,  they  will  form  a  thicket, 
and  when  the  winter  pruning  is  done  it  will 
represent  so  much  waste  of  strength.  Over- 
crowding of  shoots  prevents  air  circulating 
among  the  leaves  near  the  base  of  the  branches 
growing  from  the  main  rod,  and  if  these  im- 
portant leaves  are  robbed  of  light  and  air  they 
will  not  be  able  to  carry  out  their  functions  ; 
they  will  be  thin  in  texture  or  fall  off  prematurely, 
and  both  conditions  mean  that  the  two  basal 
buds  will  lack  substance  and  an  embryo  bunch 
of  Grapes. 

Now,  we  will  see  how  the  work  of  stopping 

and  training  of  branches  must  be  done.      In  the 

first  place,  the  main  rod  must  be  stopped  when 

it  has  grown  about  6  feet  or  7  feet  long.     Many 

amateurs  have  probably  been  advised  to  let  their 

young  Vines  grow  as  long  as  they  will  the  first 

year,  and  that  a  length  of  rod  of  at  least  12  feet 

should  be  the  result  of  the  first  year's  growth. 

If  left   unstopped  the   rod   should  grow   about 

12  feet  in  the  first  season,  but  it  ought  not  to 

be  allowed  to  do  so.     The  stopping  of  the  rod 

when  it  is  7  feet  long  means  the  concentration 

of  the  strength  of  the  Vine  in 

the  main  leaves  and  buds  of 

that  rod,  and  the  building  up 

of  a  strong  plant  for  future 

years. 

The  Lateral  Shoots. — These 
are  generally  abundant  on 
established  Vines,  but  not 
very  plentiful  on  Vines  mak- 
ing their  first  year's  growth. 
I  will  here  describe  how  these 
laterals  must  be  dealt  with. 
If  left  unstopped  they  would 
form  numerous  young  canes 
branching  out  from  the  main 
or  fruit-bearing  branch ;  they 
would  be  quite  useless  and 
cause  overcrowding.  Now, 
these  laterals  must  not  be 
allowed  to  grow  beyond  the 
first  leaf.  Stop  them  so, 
leaving  the  one  leaf  and  the 
bud  at  its  base.  In  due  time 
the  cultivator  will  observe 
another  shoot  growing  from 
that  lateral,  which  is  termed 
a  sub-lateral.  When  the 
latter  has  grown  about  1  inch 
long  remove  it  altogether ;  do 
not  leave  a  single  leaf  of  this 
sub-lateral,  else  in  time  a 
bunch  of  shoots  will  form 
there.  The  cultivator  must 
keep  a  keen  watch  upon  the 
lateral  shoot,  as  more  tiny 
growths  will  appear  from 
time  to  time,  and  all  must  be 
removed  before  they  go 
beyond  the  1  inch  in  length 
of  growth.  In  the  case  of 
Vines  bearing  bunches  of 
Grapes,  the  bunch  -  bearing 
branch  must  be  stopped  at 
two  or  three  leaves  beyond 
the  bunch.  Laterals  in  plenty  will  form  on 
this  branch  near  the  end,  but  all  these  side 
or  sub-laterals  must  be  regularly  pinched  off 
as  described  above.  I  like  to  see  these  sub- 
laterals  growing  during  the  whole  of  the 
summer  season,  because  the  fact  that  they  do  so 
proves  the  splendid  health  of  the  Vine. 

Serious  Checks.— On  no  account  must  a  Vine 
receive  a  serious  check.  If  a  Vine  is  over-cropped 
it  receives  a  check  from  which  it  may  take  several 
years  to  recover.  Lateral  and  sub-lateral  shoots 
must  not  be  allowed  to  grow  freely.  G, 

(To  be  continued. J 


Jtjne  12,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


291 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN. 

NEW    ROSES. 
A   MERICAN  PILLAR.— Lovers  of  garden 
/%  Roses  will    thank    Messrs.    Cannell 

/  %         and      Sons     for     introducing     this 

/     \       novelty.     The  flowers  are  of  a  lovely 
£         ^     shade  of   pink,  with    a   clear  white 
eye.     They  are  2J  inches  to  3  inches 
across    and   produced   in    huge    clusters,   quite 
bouquet-like.     It  reminded  me  of  the  Penzance 
Briar  Amy  Robsart,  only  a  great  deal  larger. 
The  charming  feature  of  this  Rose  is  its  blooming 
on  the  basal  growths,  so  that  one  may  use  the 
variety  either  for  bold  bedding  or 
for  pillars.   The  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  gave  an  award  of  merit  to 
this  Rose  at  the  Temple  Show,  and 
it  was  an  honour  well    deserved. 
Judging  from  the  interest   aroused 
by  the  fine  display  Messrs.  Cannell 
made,  this  will  be  a  general  favourite. 

Coquina  (wichuraiana). — To  the 
multitude  of  ramblers  Mr.  Walsh 
has  added  the  above  very  lovely 
variety  {see  illustration),  which  will 
be  a  charming  companion  to  his 
Hiawatha.  The  flowers  are  single, 
inclined  to  be  cupped  shape,  of  a 
delightful  shade  of  porcelain  pink, 
the  younger  blooms  having  a  yellow 
base.  The  long,  elegant  clusters 
stand  well  away  from  the  plant, 
and,  as  they  are  very  lasting,  pro- 
duce a  highly  decorative  effect. 
That  it  will  be  a  welcome  variety  for 
pots  was  manifest  from  the  plants, 
to  which  the  society  gave  an  award 
of  merit,  that  were  exhibited  at  the 
Temple  Show.  It  is  these  distinct 
ramblers  that  will  find  a  welcome, 
but  sorts  such  as  Galaxy  are  only 
burdening  the  collection  unneces- 
sarily. 

Diaholo  (wichuraiana). — I  hear  a 
good  account  of  this  new  Rose,  a 
cross  from  the  type  with  Xavier 
Olibo.  It  has  large  single  or  semi- 
double  flowers  of  a  blackish  purple 
colour  tinted  with  fiery  red,  con- 
trasting finely  with  the  yellow 
stamens  and  while  centre. 

Excelsa  is  another  distinct  sort  of 
which   good   reports  have   reached 
me.     The   double     flowers,    which 
are  of  a  bright  scarlet  colour,  are  produced  in 
clusters. 

Fairy  is  a  white  perpetual-flowering  rambler 
which  was  well  exhibited  at  the  Temple  Show. 
The  flowers  are  single,  reminding  one  of  the 
wichuraiana  type,  but  it  is  of  multiflora  origin. 
There  is  a  delightful  gracefulness  about  this  Rose. 
It  will  bloom  continuously  from  June  to  October, 
and  would  be  an  interesting  sort  to  mingle  with 
some  of  the  scarlet  Chinas  upon  a  fence. 

Eose  Molly  Sharman  Grawjord  (Hybrid  Tea). 
One  was  pleased  to  see  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons  at  the  Temple  Show  having  with  them  a 
group  of  their  delightful  creations.  As  so  many 
are  now  growing  Roses  under  glass,  one  could 
form  a  good  opinion  of  the  value  of  a  new  Rose 
for  this  purpose  from  blooms  cut  from  pot- 
grown  specimens.  In  the  above-named  variety 
Messrs.  Dickson  have  maintained  their  high 
reputation  as  the  leading  raisers  of  new  Roses 
in  the  whole  world.  No  house  can  produce  such 
a  marvellous  record.  The  Rose  under  notice 
will  be,  in  the  judgment  of  experts,  the  white 
Rose  of  the  future.  It  seemed  to  me  to  resemble 
L'Innocence,  The  Bride  and  White  Maman 
Cochet  all  in  one  ;  perhaps  to  call  it  L'Innocence 
with  the  size  and  substance  of  a  Duchess  of 
Portland  would  describe  it  somewhat  correctly. 
The  fine  long  stems  were  evidence  of  its  useful- 
ness for  out  flowers.  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons  exhibited  the  variety  at  the  Temple  Show 


last  year,  but  it  was  not  then  in  good  form.  I 
think  raisers  would  do  well  to  hold  back  their 
novelties  until  they  can  produce  them  for  the  first 
time  in  perfection,  otherwise  they  give  a  wrong 
impression  difBcult  to  dispel.  The  same  firm 
exhibited  well  its  Mrs.  David  Jardine,  which 
is  a  flower  of  the  Catherine  Mermet  type,  but  of  an 
exquisite  salmon  pink  colour  and  very  fragrant. 
The  flowers  exhibited  on  this  occasion  were 
what  exhibitors  would  call  medal  blooms,  or  at 
least  some  of  them  were,  and  I  should  say  the 
variety  will  be  excellent  outdoors. 

Margaret  (Hybrid  Tea). — This  fine  Rose  was 
shown  by  Messrs.  W.  Paul  and  Son,  Waltham 
Cross.    Exhibitors  quickly  discovered  the  variety 


substitute,  and,  of  course,  there  are  other  good  fer- 
tilisers on  the  market  that  may  be  used.  Where 
chickens  are  kept  the  manure  can  be  utilised 
advantageously  if  spread  on  the  surface  and  hoed 
into  the  soil.  It  also  makes  good  liquid  manure. 
Personally  I  prefer  a  mixture  of  various  articles 
in  the  liquid,  such  as  stable  drainings,  soot, 
guano,  blood  manure,  &c.  ;  but  when  this  is 
carried  out  care  must  be  used  to  dilute  the 
liquid.  Chemical  manures  are  all  very  well  for 
maiden  or  one  year  old  Roses,  and  some  marvel- 
lous blooms  are  thus  obtained,  but  I  always  find 
they  have  a  bad  effect  the  second  and  sub- 
sequent years.  Transplanting  the  Roses  every 
fourth  year  is  an  e.'ccellent  plan  for  keeping  the 


■'■*■*.  . 


A   FINK   SPECIMEN   OF  PYBUS  FLORIBUNDA   IN   THE   KOYiL    HOETICrLTUKAL  SCCIET^-'S   GARDENS   AT   WISLEY. 


among  the  many  beautiful  sorts  in  the  group  put 
up  by  the  Waltham  Cross  firm,  and  the  general 
opinion  was  that  Messrs.  Paul  had  given  to  the 
Rose  world  another  really  valuable  novelty.  The 
colour  is  a  clear  and  delicate  pink,  perfectly 
distinct.  It  is  in  the  highest  rank  among  show 
Roses.  It  is  a  lovely  Rose  in  all  ways,  both  for 
the  garden  and  exhibition. 

FEEDING  ROSES. 

As  I  write  (June  1)  we  are  having  a  glorious  rain, 
that  in  this  part,  Essex,  was  much  wanted.  We 
shall  now  be  busy  giving  our  Roses  liquid  manure, 
the  best  of  all  ways  of  building  up  the  fine 
flowers  one  desires  to  obtain.  When  the  soil 
has  been  well  saturated  with  rain,  liquid  manure 
finds  its  way  to  the  roots  more  efieetually. 
Should  others  who  peruse  these  lines  be  deprived 
of  the  rain,  then  watering  with  plain  water  first 
is  recommended.  The  following  day  the  liquid 
manure  may  be  poured  on.  A  good  plan  is  to 
draw  drills  between  the  rows,  then  fill  these 
with  the  liquid  two  or  three  times  before  filling 
in  the  soil.  To  old-established  Roses  I  have 
never  found  liquid  manure  too  strong,  even  if 
used  undiluted.  A  good  plan  is  to  have  one  or 
two  casks  of  liquid  near  at  hand.  Into  these 
house  slops,  cow-manure  and  soot  may  be  put  and 
the  casks  filled  with  water.  If  the  two  latter 
articles  are  not  available,  guano  makes  an  effective 


plants  in  good  health,  and  when  transplanting, 
which  should  be  done  in  October,  work  into  the 
soil  some  half-inch  bones  or  bone-meal.  There 
is  one  chemical  manure  I  take  exception  to  and 
regard  it  as  an  excellent  fertiliser,  and  that  is 
sulphate  of  ammonia.  It  is,  however,  best 
applied  in  the  spring,  but  a  dressing  now  would 
be  beneficial  to  the  second  crop  of  bloom.       P. 


A    FINE    SPECIMEN    OF    PYRUS 
FLORIBUNDA. 

Pybus  FLORIBUNDA,  a  native  of  Japan,  the  result 
of  a  cross  between  P.  Toringo  and  P.  baccata 
(Siberian  Crab),  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
spring-flowering  trees  and  appears  to  almost 
thrive  in  smoke,  and  is  therefore  extremely 
valuable  to  the  town  gardener.  The  flowers 
measure  about  1  inch  across  and  are  borne 
profusely.  They  are,  when  in  the  bud 
state,  of  a  bright  red  tint,  which  harmonises 
pleasingly  with  the  blush  shade  of  the  fully 
expanded  blossoms.  In  the  case  of  the  variety 
atrosanguinea  the  blooms  are  of  a  deeper  colour, 
the  buds  being  dark  red,  while  the  developed 
flowers  are  of  a  charming  tint  of  rosy  salmon. 
The  specimen  illustrated,  growing  in  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Socisty's  grounds  at  Wisley,  is 
about  20  feet  high  and  nearly  as  much  in  breadth, 
while  the  flowers  are  produced  freely. 
BichTtiond,  Swrrey.  Leslie  Greening. 


292 


THE     GARDEN. 


[June  12,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 

SEASONAHLK    WORK    AND    HOW    TO    GROW    ROSEMARY. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN. -Now  is  a  good 
time  to  sow  Sweet  Williams  for 
flowering  next  year,  and  if  the 
directions  given  on  this  page  last 
week  for  Wallflowers  and  Canterbury 
Bells  are  acted  upon  for  the  first 
named,  success  should  not  be  difficult  to  obtain. 
It  is  most  important  to  get  the  young  plants 


I. — CUTTINGS      OR     SLIPS     OF     ROSE.MAIlY     AS 
DETACHEII     FROM     THE     OLD     I'LAKT. 

pricked  out  when  small,  as  Sweet  Williams, 
especially  some  of  the  newer  varieties,  have  a 
tantalising  habit  of  dying  during  the  winter,  the 
best  provision  against  this  being  hard,  sturdy 
growth,  which  is  secured  by  early  pricking  off. 
Roses  are  now  giving  us  a  few  early  flowers,  and 
the  later  buds  are  swelling  rapidly.  Mildew 
and  green  fly  must  be  watched  for  and  dealt 
with  promptly.  For  the  first  named  there  is  no 
better  remedy  than  Mo-EfBo,  and  for  the  latter 
one  of  the  insecticides  advertised  in  The  Garden 
may  well  be  employed,  taking  care  to  use  both 
fungicide  and  insecticide  according  to  the  direc- 
tions supplied  with  them.  Where  paths  are  weedy 
or  overgrown  to  some  extent  with  moss  or  other 
low  forms  of  plant-life,  they  should  be  treated 
with  weed-killer  without  delay.  This  should  be 
mixed  and  applied  strictly  according  to  the 
vendor's  directions,  otherwise  more  harm  than 
good  will  be  done.  It  should  not  be  applied 
within  6  inches  of  grass.  Box  or  other  live 
edgings,  and  as  it  is  poisonous  proper  care  must 
be  exercised  in  its  use.  Providing  reasonable 
precautions  are  taken,  there  is  no  danger  in  its 
use,  and  paths  treated  with  it  are  brightened 
and  cleaned  in  a  thorough  manner,  thus  en 
hancing  the  beauty  of  the  garden  in  general. 

Vegetahle  Garden. — A  sowing  of  Peas  for  late 
supplies  may  well  be  made  this  week,  and,  given 
favourable  weather,  the  crop  should  be  ready  at 
the  end  of  August  or  early  in  September.  It  is 
most  essential  that  the  soil  be  thoroughly  worked 
and  well  manured  for  this  crop,  and  the  seeds 
should  be  sown  in  a  shallow  trench  to  facilitate 


watering.  It  will  also  be  necessary  to  sow  the 
seeds  more  thinly  than  is  done  earlier  in  the 
season,  as  mildew  frequently  attacks  these  late- 
sown  Peas,  entangled  and  thick  growth  favouring 
this  funsuj.  Those  who  like  a  tall  variety  should 
try  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  which  grows  from  .3  feet  to 
6  feet  high.  Autocrat  is  another  good  late  Pea 
that  usually  attains  a  height  of  4  feet,  and  Glad- 
stone is  somewhat  shorter.  For  a  small  garden 
the  last  named  is  probably  the  best,  as  it  is  good 
in  every  way.  Scarlet  Runners  have  germinated 
very  badly  this  year,  and  where  gaps  exist 
iidvantage  should  be  taken  of  a  wet  day  to  fill 
them,  removing  plants  from  where  they  are 
too  thick  for  the  purpose.  If  the  work  is  done 
carefully  the  plants  will  not  receive  a  serious 
check.  Kale  and  Savoys  may  now  be  planted  in 
their  permanent  quarters  as  soon  as  the  weather 
is  wet  and  the  soil  in  a  suitable  condition. 
Where  space  is  none  too  plentiful  they  may  very 
well  go  between  the  rows  of  early,  short-topped 
Potatoes,  which  will  shortly  be  lifted.  It  is 
better  to  plant  these  greens  in  this  way,  providing 
the  weather  is  suitable,  than  to  wait  until  the 
Potatoes  are  lifted  ;  but,  of  course,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  see  that  the  haulm  of  the  latter  does 
not  overhang  the  greens,  else  they  will  becnmc 
drawn  and  very  weak.  AH  who  cultivate  vege- 
tables should  make  a  point  of  joining  the  newly 
formed  National  Vegetable  Society. 

Fruit  Garden. — Where  grafting  was  done  in 
the  spring,  it  will  now  be  necessary  to  inspect 
the  ties  made  at  that  time,  as  the  stock  and 
scion  will  be  swelling  rapidly  where  a  union  has 
been  effected.  The  tying  material  should  be 
removed  and  replaced  with  fresh,  making  this 
firm  enough  to  afford  support  and  yet  slack 
enough  to  allow  the  plant  to  swell.  It  is  a 
wise  plan  to  place  a  stake  to  each  graft  and 
lightly  tie  the  latter  to  the  stake ;  this  will 
prevent  damage  by  wind,  birds  or  other  agency. 
Cherries  on  walls  frequently  become  infested 
with  black  fly  at  this  season,  and  prompt 
measures  must  be  taken  for  the  eradication  of 
the  pest.  Spraying  with  a  good  insecticide  and 
later  each  evening  with  clear  water  will  usually 
keep  the  young  shoots  clean  and  healthy. 
Cordon  trees  of  all  kinds  should  be  gone  over  at 
once  and  all  misplaced  and  weak  growths 
entirely  removed ;  they  will  easily  break  out  at 
the  junction  with  the  old  wood,  and  their 
removal  will  considerably  assist  those  shoots 
which  are  left. 

Wiiidoio-boxes. — Where  these  have  not  been 
filled  for  the  summer  no  time  should  be  lost  in 
preparing  them.  See  that  all  parts  are  sound 
and  clean,  and  that  the  drainage  holes  are  not 
blocked.  Generally  one  large  piece  of  broken 
pot  over  each  hole  is  sufficient  drainage  for  the 
summer,  this  in  turn  being  covered  with  moss  or 
the  rougher  portions  of  the  soil.  A  good 
general  mixture  for  filling  the  boxes  is  loam  two 
parts,  well-decayed  manure  one  part,  with  a  good 
sprinkling  of  coarse  sand  and  a  o-inch  potful  of 
steamed  bone-meal  to  each  barrow-load  of  soil. 
The  plants  should  be  made  firm  after  planting 
and  well  watered  in.  Of  course,  the  plants  used 
will  depend  upon  the  tastes  of  the  owner,  but 
always  avoid  placing  pink  or  dull  red  flowers 
near  so-called  red  bricks;  when  seen  in  conjunc- 
tion these  colours  clash  very  badly.  Red  flowers 
against  white  or  vice  versa  are  always  safe  from  a 
colour  standpoint.  H. 


popular  to-day,  apart  altogether  from  its  claim 
to  consideration  on  account  of  the  uses  to  which 
it  may  be  put.  This  plant  is  known  to  botmists 
by  the  name  of  Rosmarinus  officinalis,  and  is  an 
extremely  old  herb.  Learned  authorities  tell  us 
that  the  name  of  Rosemary  signifies  the  "dew 
of  the  sea,"  this  name  being  given  to  the  plant 
because  of  its  partiality  for  the  seashore. 
Ancient  history  informs  us  that  Rosemary  was 
employed  in  making  garlands  and  chaplets,  with 
which  it  was  customary  to  crown  the  principal 
guests  at  feasts  ;  hence  the  name  Rosmarinus 
coronarius,  which  the  plant  formerly  bore. 
History  also  tells  us  that  Rosemary  was  an 
emblem  of  remembrance,  and  was  worn  at 
weddings  to  signify  the  fidelity  of  lovers. 
Shakespeare  makes  Ophelia  to  say,  "There's 
Rosemary,  that's  for  remembrance  ;  pray  you, 
love,  remember." 

It  was  first  introduced  in  1548  and  is  still  to 
be  found  growing  freely  in  many  old  gardens, 
where  it  has  attained  quite  large  proportions. 
At  one  time  the  plant  was  grown  in  large 
quantities  in  Surrey.  The  leaves  yield  by 
distillation  oil  of  a  valuable  nature  that  is  used 
for  scenting  soaps.  To  grow  the  Rosemary 
really  well  a  sheltered  situation  is  most  desir- 
able, and  I  know  of  no  better  position  than  the 
base  of  a  wall  in  a  warm  aspect.  The  character 
of  the  soil  is  an  important  item,  and  therefore 
requires  consideration.  Soil  of  a  heavy,  reten- 
tive character  is  quite  unsuitable  and  will  need 
to  be  specially  dealt  with  to  make  it  possible  to 
grow  the  plant  at  all  satisfactorily.  Rosemary 
delights  in  well-drained,  light,  but  fairly  rich 
soil,  and  this  should  be  trenched  or  deeply  dug 
previous  to  the  planting.  Garden  soils  of  almost 
any  character  can  be  made  to  suit  the  plant. 
By  the  addition  of  a  plentiful  supply  of  old 
mortar  rubbish  many  soils  may  be  rendered 
suitable  for  planting  this  fine  old  herb.  April  is 
a  good  time  to  plant,  but  when  more  than 
ordinary  care  is  observed  Rosemary  may  be 
planted  at  an  even  later  period.  Contrary  to 
opinion  generally  held  by  the  inexperienced,  the 


INCREASING    THE    ROSEMARY. 

The  Rosemary  has  so  many  historical  associa-  I 
tions  that  there  is  small  wonder  that  it  is  so  I 


-the  SA.ME^rUTTINOS  PREPARED  FOR  INSER- 
TIOV.  NOTE^THE  HEEL  CF  OLD  WOOD  AT 
THE   BASE   OFjiEACH. 


Juke  12,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


293 


3. — THE  CUTTINGS  PLANTED   IN   A   NURSERY   BED. 


plants  eueoeed  much  better  when  they  are 
watered  freely  during  the  summer  months. 

Rosemary  may  be  increased  by  seeds  sown  in 
April  and  May,  by  the  insertion  of  cuttings  in 
Ruitable  soil  and  by  the  layering  of  shoots 
during  the  summer  months.  Propagation  by 
seeds  is  a  very  simple  and  easy  means  of  raising 
a  large  batch  of  plants,  but  from  the  time  the 
seeds  are  sown  until  the  crop  reaches  maturity 
fully  a  year  must  elapse.  Half  an  ounce  of  seed 
will  sow  a  row  some  50  feet  in  length.  Seeds, 
which  take  rather  more  than  three  weeks  to 
germinate,  should  be  sown  in  drills  half  an  inch 
deep  in  a  sunny  border  outdoors,  and  when  the 
seedlings  are  a  few  inches  high  they  should  be 
transplanted  in  a  small,  specially  prepared  bed 
of  nice  light  soil,  observing  a  distance  between 
the  seedlings  of  6  inches  either  way.  When  the 
seedlings  become  well  established  and  are 
represented  by  sturdy  little  plants,  they  should 
be  planted  in  their  permanent  quarters  about 
3  feet  asunder.  When  treated  in  this  fashion, 
plants  of  the  Rosemary  invariably  do  well. 

The  most  popular  method  of  increasing  the 
plant,  however,  is  by  cuttings.  This  is  not 
difficult.  The  cuttings  may  be  better  known  to 
the  novice  as  slips,  and  slips  are  young  shoots 
that  are  pulled  ofif  the  old  plants  with  a  heel  of 
the  old  wood  adhering.  That  the  true  character 
of  these  slips  or  cuttings  may  be  understood  and 
their  possibilities  better  appreciated,  in  Fig.  1 
will  be  found  two  illustrations  of  the  kind  of 
cuttings  referred  to.  Note  the  feathery  arrange- 
ment of  the  leaves  from  top  to  bottom  and  the 
heel  of  old  wood  at  the  base  of  both  of  them. 
The  cuttings  are  some  6  inches  in  length,  and 
should  be  inserted  in  sandy  soil  in  a  shady  border 
at  any  time  during  the  summer  season.  Before 
the  cuttings  are  inserted  the  leaves  should  be 
removed  from  the  lower  half  of  them.  Fig.  2 
shows  two  cuttings  or  slips  properly  prepared 
previous  to  being  dibbled  in.  The  cuttings 
should  be  inserted  to  the  depth  of  the  bared 
portion  of  the  stem  and  special  care  taken  to 
press  the  soil  firmly  at  the  base  of  each  one. 
Observe  a  distance  of  a  few  inches  between  each 
cutting  and  arrange  them  equidistant,  some- 
what similar  to  that  represented  in  Fig.  3. 

By  the  succeeding  spring — March  or  April— 
the  rooted  cuttings  or  slips  should  have  formed 
nice  little  specimens,  and  will  benefit  by  being 
planted  in  their  permanent  quarters  3  feet 
apart.  Bushy  specimens  are  much  to  be  desired, 
and  that  each  young  plant  should  partake  of 
this  character,  the  point  of  the  growth  may 
be  pinched  out  the  first  season.  The  large  plant 
of  Rosemary  represented  in  Fig.  4  was  lifted 
from  beneath  the  wall  of  a  house  in  a  well-known 
Buckinghamshire  garden,  where  this  subject 
does  uncommonly  well.  It  is  the  custom  in  this 
beautiful  garden  when  gathering  a  posy  of 
flowers  to  add  a  sprig  or  two  of  Rosemary  "  for 
remembrance." 


THINNING  YOUNG  VEGE- 
TABLES. 
There  will  be  plenty  of  work  at 
the  present  time  in  the  vegetable 
garden.  Weeds  must  be  killed 
while  they  are  in  their  infancy.  It 
is  a  sad  sight  to  see  young  vege- 
tables in  rows  almost  hidden  from 
view  by  a  forest  of  seedling  weeds. 
No  mercy  must  be  shown  the  latter. 
The  work  of  thinning  out  young 
vegetables  oughtnot  to  be  neglected ; 
the  timely  thinning  of  the  seedlings 
has  such  a  grand  effect  upon  their 
subsequent  quality.  If  Carrots, 
Beetroot  and  Turnips  were  left  to 
grow  in  a  crowded  condition  in  the 
rows,  the  roots  would  be  very  poor 
indeed,  and  Spinach  and  Lettuces 
practically  worthless.  The  best 
time  to  do  the  thinning  out  is 
immediately  after  a  shower  of 
rain.  Early  thinning  is  advisable, 
because  it  is  such  a  difficult 
matter  to  remove  surplus  seedlings  without 
unduly  disturbing  those  left  when  all  have 
been  allowed  to  attain  to  a  fairly  large 
size  before  the  work  is  commenced. 

Carrots  must  be  left  about  4  inches.  Beetroot 
6  inches  and  Turnips  5  inches  or  6  inches  apart. 
This  may  at  first  appear  to  be  too  far,  but  as 
the  roots  grow  it  will  be  found  that  they  will 
nearly  occupy  the  space  allotted.  Spinach  seed- 
lings must  have  ample  room  to  grow  in,  and 
ought  to  be  thinned  out  to  6  inches  asunder. 
Lettuces,  where  raised  in  drills  where  they  are  to 
remain  to  grow  to  maturity — to  a  fit  condition 
for  use — must  be  thinned  as  follows :  Cabbage 
varieties,  10  inches  ;  Cos,  1  foot  apart.  Seedling 
Parsley  and  herbs  must  also   be  duly   thinned 

out.  SH.iMROCK. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


During  the  month  of  May  flowering  shrubs  and 

trees   made   our   town   gardens   look   charming. 

Both  specimen  trees  on  the  lawns 

and  others  in  the  shrubberies  were 

well    laden  with  lovely  blossoms, 

and  many  of    them  filled  the   air 

with  their  delicious  perfume.     The 

single-flowered  and  double -flowered 

Cherry,  Lilac,  Ribes  (the  Flowering 

Currant),  the  pink  and  white  May, 

both    single    and   double-flowered, 

Forsythia  suspensa   and  Wistarias 

on  fences  and  houses  were  a  few 

kinds  that  came  and  gladdened  the 

hearts,  not  only  of  the  owners,  but 

of  the  passers-by,  too.     I  recently 

saw    a    grand    specimen     of    the 

Flowering     Currant     three     parts 

covering  the  front  wall  of  a  villa  V 

residence,  and  nearly  every  branch  Tat 

on  the  plant  was  well  laden  with 

the    pendulous     bunches     of     the 

beautiful  flowers.     The  house  was 

in  a  very  crowded   district    in    a 

town  ;  and  I  advise  readers  of  The 

Garden   to    make  a  note  of  this 

plant,  as  it  may  prove  suitable  for 

training    on  a  wall  in    their    own 

gardens.     The  proper  time  for  planting  is  during 

the  month  of  November. 

Weeds  and  Insect  Pests. — The  recent  dry 
weather  has  enabled  the  cultivator  of  all  kinds 
of  garden  crops  to  keep  them  free  from  weeds, 
and  insects,  too,  to  a  great  extent.  In  many 
gardens  one  finds  in  spring  hosts  of  tiny  seedling 
weeds  growing  in  almost  every  border.  Of 
course,  they  are  the  result  of  one  of  three 
causes,  or  probably  of  all,  namely,  old  plants 
being  allowed  to  mature  seeds  the  previous 
autumn,    being   mixed    with   the    manure   used 


during  the  winter  and  spring  months,  or  blown 
from  weeds  growing  the  previous  year  in 
neighbouring  gardens.  When  found,  however, 
the  cultivator  must  make  good  use  of  the 
Dutch  hoe,  and  so  kill  them  while  they 
are  very  small.  The  constant  stirring  of 
the  surface  soil  will  create  a  mulch,  and, 
further,  admit  air  and  warmth  to  the 
roots  of  the  plants  and  hasten  the  growth  of 
them. 

Slugs  and  Snails,  those  great  enemies  of  the 
tender  little  seedlings  of  the  various  kinds  of 
hardy  annuals  raised  in  the  open  borders,  have 
not  had  matters  quite  their  own  way  of  late,  on 
account  of  the  dryness  of  the  surface  soil.  In 
showery  weather  it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep 
the  slugs  away  from  the  seedlings,  which  they 
thin  out  too  severely  and  generally  select  the 
best  specimens. 

Thinning  Out  Hardy  Annuals. — No  time 
should  be  lost  now  in  getting  this  work  well 
advanced.  Where  the  young  plants  are  growing 
in  clumps,  much  care  must  be  taken  in  the 
drawing  out  of  some  seedlings  so  as  not  to 
damage  those  that  are  retained,  especially  where 
they  are  rather  crowded.  The  best  seedlings  to 
retain  are  those  that  are  somewhat  isolated  Irom 
the  others,  because  they  are  already  stronger 
and  their  roots  are  not  so  likely  to  be  disturbed 
by  the  removal  of  the  surplus  plants  as  would  be 
the  case  if  one  was  selected  from  a  very  crowded 
bunch.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  select 
some  from  the  crowded  plants  in  many 
instances,  and  much  care  must  be  exercised  as 
suggested.  If  the  soil  be  very  dry,  thoroughly 
saturate  the  whole  of  it  immediately  surround- 
ing the  seedlings  before  any  of  the  latter  are 
pulled  up. 

Lawns  and  Grass  Verges. — An  ill-kept  lawn 
will  spoil  the  general  good  appearance  of  any 
garden,  no  matter  how  well  arranged  and  cared 
for  the  borders  may  be.  Some  persons  think 
the  best  thing  to  do  is  to  cut  the  grass  as 
low  down  as  possible  with  the  mowing  machine 
in  order  to  make  the  lawn  look  well  kept ;  but 
it  is  a  mistake  to  do  this,  because  the  roots 
of  the  grass  are  exposed  to  the  burning  influence 
of  the  sun  and  then  the  lawn  soon  dries  and 
looks   brown   and    scorched.      Set    the   mowing 


4. — AN   OLD   PLANT  OF  ROSEMARY. 

machine  so  that  the  blade  will  pass  over  a  half-iaoh 
thickness  of  grass  and  leave  a  carpet-like  surface. 
Then  there  are  the  verges  that  must  be  well 
attended  to,  and  in  order  to  cut  the  grass 
without  damaging  the  plants  growing  in  the 
border,  the  cog-wheel,  or  chain  side  of  the 
mowing  machine,  must  be  kept  on  the  outside, 
that  is,  run  next  to  the  lawn  or  path  as  the 
case  may  be.  Use  sharp  edging  shears  for 
cutting  the  side  grass  on  the  verges,  and  always 
gather  up  the  grass  shortly  after  it  has  been 
cut.  Avon. 


2»4 


THE     GARDEN. 


[JUNB  12,  1»09. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

RHODODENDRONS.  -  As  these  pass  out 
of  bloom  it  will  ba  well  to  go  over 
all   the    more   choice   varieties   and 
remove  the   seed-pods,  so  that   the 
new  growths  may  be  encouraged  for 
the    next     year's    flowers.      When 
removing  the  old  trusses,  be  careful  not  to  injure 
the  young  growths,  and  assist  the  plants  with 
moisture  applied  close  to  the  stems. 

Ghent  A.aleas. — Where  large  quantities  of 
these  are  forced  annually,  the  plants  may  be  put 
out  in  the  reserve  garden  to  make  fresh  growth 
and  when  strong  enough  to  force  be  lifted 
in  the  usual  way  ;  but  the  plants  are  cheap,  and 
for  forcing  fresh  plants  may  be  procured 
annually  and  the  older  ones  planted  out  in  beds 
in  the  flower  garden,  where  in  due  course  they 
will  make  a  pleasing  show. 

Border  Camatioiis. — To  obtain  fine  bloon's  it 
is  necessary  to  thin  the  buds  early,  leaving  from 
three  to  five  on  each  stem.  In  dry  weather  good 
soakings  with  manure  water  will  greatly  assist 
the  plants  in  making  strong  growth  and  large, 
healthy  flowers.  Take  great  care  to  protect  the 
plants  from  being  destroyed  by  sparrows,  slugs 
and  other  pests. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Cherries. — See  that  all  the  leaders  of  young 
trees  are  made  secure  before  being  damaged  by 
wind.  When  tying  them  to  the  wires,  or  fastening 
to  the  walls,  use  broad  raffia  or  shreds,  allowing 
ample  room  in  each  for  the  swelling  of  the  growth. 
Take  care  not  to  bruise  the  bark,  and  should 
black  fly  put  in  an  appearance  check  it  at  once. 
Morellos  we  train  much  in  the  same  way  as 
Peacbes,  young  shoots  being  preserved  for  fruiting 
the  following  season.  Do  not  overcrowd  with 
useless  wood,  and  keep  the  foliage  free  from  aphis. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Where  these  have 
set  too  thickly  remove  a  portion  of  the  fruit  at 
once,  and  again  take  off  more  after  ten  da\s  or 
so,  nothing  being  gained  by  over-eroppiog.  At  the 
final  thinning  one  to  !l  inches  will  be  ample  if  the 
trees  are  vigorous  and  of  medium-sized  varieties, 
and  allow  a  little  further  apart  for  the  larger 
sorts.  Keep  the  foliage  clean  and  free  from 
insects  by  the  free  use  of  the  syringe  in  fine 
weather,  not  missing  a  particle  of  the  foliage. 
Use  tepid  water  and  do  not  apply  it  with  too 
much  force. 

Pears. — The  fruits  of  these  may  be  thinned 
early  if  the  trees  have  set  more  than  they  can 
safely  carry.  Leave  the  largest  fruits  and  those 
best  placed,  so  that  they  may  develop  well. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

V'.getahhs.  — As  fast  as  the  plants  of  all  kinds 
of  vegetables  are  large  enough  to  be  put  out 
where  they  are  to  remain,  lose  no  time  in  getting 
them  planted,  and  take  advantage  of  showery 
weather  when  possible.  Cauliflowers  for  summer 
supply  require  good  soil  and  ample  moisture.  Put 
out  large  breadths  of  Autumn  Giant,  Self-pro- 
tecting and  Michaelmas  White  to  keep  up  a  late 
supply.  Sow  good  breadths  of  Turnips  on  north 
borders  and  let  the  land  be  rich,  otherwise  the 
roots  will  be  tough.  Sow  another  lot  of  Runner 
Beans  to  supply  pods  till  late  in  the  season,  and 
earth  up  Potatoes  early. 

Asparaijus. — A  little  nitrate  of  soda  or  salt 
will  greatly  assist  these,  and  do  not  cut  too  late 
or  the  plants  will  be  weakened  for  next  spring. 
Where  there  is  ample  room  and  beds  a  good  plan 
is  to  give  one  or  two  beds  a  rest  for  a  season. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 

Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Plant    Department. 

Orchids. — In  mixed  collections  many  species 
will  now  be  passing  out  of  bloom,  and  in  accord- 
ance thereto  attention  should  be  paid  as  may 
be  required  to  repotting  or  surfacing.  Fibrous 
peat  and  sphagnum  moss  continue  to  be  most  in 
favour  with  the  majority  of  cultivators,  though 
Fern  fibre  and  leaves  partially  deciyed  answer 
the  purpose  well,  providing  careful  selection 
and  preparation  are  carried  out.  The  most  suit- 
able time  for  root-disturbance  is  at  the  first 
evidence  of  fresh  growth,  as  then  the  natural 
activity  of  the  root  system  ensures  speedy  re- 
establishment.  To  carry  out  the  work  success- 
fully ample  time  is  requisite,  and  great  care  should 
be  taken  that  the  roots  are  not  unduly  injured. 
Some  species  are  prone  to  develop  roots  that 
cling  so  persistently  to  the  outer  part  of  the 
pot  or  pan  that  it  is  impossible  to  remove  them 
entire.  With  such  it  is  best  to  break  the 
receptacle,  and  after  clearing  away  any  effete 
material  from  the  inner  part  of  the  ball,  replace 
this  with  fresh  and  repot,  dealing  as  gently  as 
possible  with  the  crock-attached  rootlets. 
Baskets  or  rafts  may  be  very  similarly  treated, 
or  if  of  small  size  be  bodily  transferred  to  others 
of  greater  capacity.  Water  must  be  carefully 
applied  for  a  time,  and  a  well-shaded  position 
aft'orded  the  plants  until  renewed  growth  and 
root-action  indicate  that  moderate  exposure 
would  be  beneficial. 

Stove  Plants. 

Climbers. — Growth  upon  these  will  now  be 
rampant,  and  tying  in  the  shoots  to  replace 
the  leading  shoot  will  require  frequent  atten- 
tion. Where  planted  out,  insect  pests  are  not  so 
likely  to  be  in  evidence  as  when  the  roots  are 
confined  to  comparatively  small  receptacles. 
Clerodendrons,  AUamandas,  Passifloras,  Bougain- 
villeas  and  Stephanotis  are  all  amenable  for 
training  near  the  roof,  and  if  ventilation  is  well 
attended  to  do  not  require  shading,  while  their 
flowering  properties  are  enhanced  by  full 
exposure  to  the  sun. 

Chrysanthemums. 

Final  Polling. — The  forwardest  of  the  large 
flowering  sorts,  as  well  as  others  intended  for 
large  specimens,  will  soon  be  ready  for  the  last 
potting,  and  pots  and  soil  may  be  got  ready 
when  time  can  be  spared.  Pots  from  9  inches  to 
12  inches  diameter  are  favoured,  the  first  being 
of  ample  size  for  weak  or  moderate  growing 
varieties,  and  the  last  for  the  more  robust  or 
where  the  practice  is  followed  of  placing  more 
than  one  plant  in  each. 

Potting  Soil. — The  various  ingredients  that 
form  this  differ  considerably  according  to  the 
views  of  the  cultivator  ;  the  bulk,  however,  must 
be  good  loam  that  has  been  stacked  long  enough 
to  cause  decay  to  the  roots  it  contained.  To 
twelve  barrow-loads  of  this  may  be  added 
four  of  short  manure,  preferably  that  of  the 
horse,  four  of  leaf-mould  and  one  of  bone-meal, 
with  such  correctives  as  burnt  ash,  lime  rubble, 
soot  and  sand,  according  to  necessity  and  the 
texture  of  the  loam. 

Insects  and  Fuiigiis. — If  the  foliage  is  affected 
with  either  of  these,  measures  should  be  taken 
to  eradicate  them  before  potting,  as  afterwards 
the  difficulty  is  increased.  Green  and  black  fly 
are  easily  disposed  of  by  using  vaporising  com- 
pound, and  the  plants  are  quickly  concentrated 
in  a  house  or  pit  for  the  purpose.  Fungus  or 
rust,  if  present,  develops  rapidly  at  this 
season,  especially  when  the  atmosphere  is  humid. 
All  affected  leaves  should  first  be  picked  off, 
after  which  the  plants  may  be  syringed  with 
a  mixture  comprising  an  ounce  of  sulphide  of 
potassium  to  two  gallons  of  water. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Oalloway  House,  Qarlieattm,  Wigtovmehire. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


Flowers  from  Ireland. 

Mr.  H.  Armytage  Moore,  Rowallane,  Saint- 
field,  County  Down,  sends  us  a  very  interesting 
collection  of  flowers.  He  writes  :  "  For  your 
table  I  am  sending  flowers  of  the  following  : 
Meeonopsis  integrifolia,  Clianthus  albus,  Myoso- 
tidium  nobile.  Primula  pulverulenta,  Saxitraga 
ranunculifolia  and  Cydonia  japonica  Simoni. 
As  regards  Meeonopsis  integrifolia,  I  find  the 
best  results  are  obtained  from  spring- sown 
seed,  stored  in  silver  sand  since  ripe,  strong  little 
plants  being  thus  ready  for  flowering  positions 
by  the  autumn.  Plants  here  frequently  bear 
from  eight  to  ten  flowers,  and  seem  to  appreciate 
a  rich  soil  in  partially  shaded  positions.  The 
Clianthus  albus,  covered  in  flowers,  on  a  sunny, 
red  brick  wall  gives  a  striking  effect  and 
withstands  more  frost  than  is  generally  supposed. 
Myosotidium  makes  fine  grow  th  here  on  a  north 
border  in  sandy  leaf-mould  and  well-decayed 
manure.  With  a  good  surfacing  of  sand  and 
slight  protection  from  Bracken  fronds  it  can  be 
wintered  satisfactorily.  Primula  pulverulenta 
presents  no  difficulties  to  anyone  who  can  supply 
shade  and  manure,  and  I  have  frequently 
measured  spikes  over  3  feet  high  carrying  eight 
«horls  of  flowers.  Saxifraga  ranunculifolia, 
growing  in  a  variety  of  positions  and  soils,  has 
been  a  delicate  mass  of  flowers  during  the  last 
fortnight,  and  when  well  grouped  gives  a  eharn\- 
ing  effect.  Cydonia  japonica  Simoni,  of  prostrate 
habit,  shows  its  rich  crimson  flowers  in  admirable 
array  when  stretching  its  strong  growths  over 
some  bold,  sunny  rock.  In  association  with  the 
well-known  double  Arabis  a  delightful  contrast 
is  obtained. " 


Flowering  Shrobs  and  Other  Plants  from 
Dons. 

Dr.  McWatt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B.,  sends 
us  another  excellent  and  interesting  floral  con- 
tribution from  what  must  be  an  exceedingly 
well-stocked  garden.  Among  other  subjects  sent 
we  noticed  Rubus  deliciosus,  Pyrus  floribunda, 
Deutzia  discolor  purpurascens,  the  double- 
flowered  Gorse,  the  Summer  Snowflake  (Leu- 
cojum  aestivum),  the  Bird  Cherry  (Prunus 
Padus),  the  white  Spanish  Broom  (Cytisus  albus), 
C.  scoparius  andreanus  and  C.  sulphureus,  all  in 
splendid  condition. 

Pentstemon  caiBULBUS. 

We  thank  Mrs.  Logan  of  Lloyn-y-groes,  Llany- 
mynech,  Mont.,  for  so  kindly  sending  a  spray 
of  this  interesting  Pentstemon  from  the  Rooky 
Mountains.  It  has  been  grown  in  the  open 
in  Mrs.  Lloyd's  garden  in  Wales.  As  our 
correspondent  mentions,  it  will,  of  course, 
stand  any  degree  of  cold,  but  the  damp  of 
the  English  winter  kills  it.  A  glass  light  is 
put  over  the  plant  all  the  winter  to  keep  oflF 
rain.  The  same  treatment  is  suitable  for  Lewisia 
rediviva. 


Flowers  from  ConNTY  Wicklow. 
Messrs.  Pennick  and  Co.  of  Delgany  Nurseries, 
County  Wicklow,  send  us  a  number  of  out  blooms 
of  shrubs  and  other  plants  which,  they  tell  us, 
are  grown  in  the  open  without  any  protection 
and  which  are  not  injured  by  frosts.  Among 
them  we  notice  Rhododendron  Cynthea,  a 
beautiful  rich  red  flowered  variety  ;  Rhodo- 
dendron Pink  Pearl,  which  is,  of  course,  well 
known  ;  Sophora  grandiflora,  with  its  rich  yellow 
Clianthus-like  flowers  ;  Deutzia  gracilis  carminea, 
a  flesh-coloured  variety  of  this  popular  shrub  : 
Pittosporum  viridiflorum.  Acacia  armata,  Drimys 
Winteri,  Kalmia  glauca  and  Rubus  deliciosus 
(Himalayan  Bramble),  with  its  large  pure  white 
flowers. 


June  12,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


296 


Violas  from  Kbw. 
Mr.  T.  Berridge,  Kew  Club,  Mortlake  Road, 
Kew,  sends  us  some  excellent  flowers  of  bedding 
Violas,  the  colours  being  particularly  rich  and 
clear.  He  writes:  "  I  send  you  a  few  of  Sutton's 
bedding  Violas,  white  and  yellow,  and  should  be 
glad  if  you  would  state  what  you  think  of  the 
strain.  They  were  sown  on  June  21  last  year 
and  planted  out  in  the  bed  the  first  week  in 
October.  I  did  not  lose  any  during  the  winter. 
They  are  a  mass  of  beautiful  blooms  and  are  the 
admiration  of  all  who  visit  us." 


Sweet  Peas  from  Dorking. 
Mr.  J.  Chisholm,  The  Gardens,  Wolton  House, 
Dorking,  Surrey,  sends  us  a  very  fine  lot  of 
Sweet  Peas,  the  large,  well  coloured  flowers 
being  borne  on  long,  stout  stems.  Among  them 
were  Syeira  Lee,  Helen  Grosvenor,  Ruby,  John 
Ingman  and  Etta  Dyke.  He  writes:  "I  am 
sending  you  a  few  blooms  of  Sweet  Peas  from 
plants  grown  from  cuttings.  They 
are  in  6-inoh  pots  and  vary  in  height 
from  7  feet  to  10  feet,  and  are  still 
making  strong  growth." 


more  interesting.  We  heartily  commend  this 
brochure  to  all  who  contemplate  making  altera- 
tions in  or  additions  to  their  gardens.  A  copy 
will,  we  believe,  be  sent  post  free  to  any  reader 
who  is  interested  in  the  subject. 

Home-bottled  Fruits  and  How  to 
Do  Them.t — The  author  has  succeeded  in 
giving,  in  a  very  concise  way,  some  most  useful 
hints  on  the  subject  of  bottling  fruits,  which 
will  not  fail  to  be  hailed  with  delight  by  every 
careful  housewife.  He  has  had  ten  years' 
experience  in  the  work  of  bottling  fruits  of  all 
kinds — from  the  small  berries  of  the  bush  fruits 
and  luscious  Strawberry  to  the  noble  Apple  and 
Pear.  He  rightly  refers  to  the  folly  of  persons 
growing  inferior  varieties  of  fruits,  when  the 
better  ones  do  not  cost  more  to  cultivate.  All 
fruits  must  be  sound,  says  the  author,  and  this  is 
a  point  that  we  would  draw  special  attention  to. 
Unsound  fruit  should  always,  in  every  circum- 
stance,   be    rejected.     Mr.    Brewer    also 


TO 


ANSWERS 
OORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  7io  Tnatter  ivhat  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  tnake  a  special  feature  of  the 
*^  Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor,  of  THE 
Garden,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Pitblisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  ,to  amy  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  th& 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  Separate  piece  of  paper 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Culture   of   Galtonla   candlcans 
and  Othei>  plants  (^.  (?.).— The  Galtonia 


Clamped  Apples  from  Surrey. 
Mr.  H.  Jonds,  Portley  Wood, 
Whyteleafe,  Surrey,  sends  us  Apples 
which  have  been  clamped  much  in 
the  same  way  as  Potatoes  are  usually 
done.  Though  not  a  new  system, 
this  is  not  often  adopted  with  these 
fruits.  The  specimens  sent  were 
firm  and  crisp,  but  they  quickly 
decayed  after  they  were  received. 
The  flavour,  too,  was  spoiled,  pro- 
bably, as  suggested  by  our  corre- 
spondent, by  the  leaves  and  straw. 
He  writes  :  "On  the  first  week  of 
December  I  pitted  some  Blenheim 
Orange,  Wyken  Pippins  and  Cox's 
Orange  Pippins  in  a  straw  skep  and 
an  earthenware  jar  in  the  ground, 
like  Potatoes,  to  see  how  they  would 
keep.  I  dug  them  up  in  May,  just 
six  months  after  pitting,  and  think 
my  first  experiment  is  not  altogether 
a  failure.  The  musty  flavour  is  due 
to  the  dry  leaves  and  straw  of  the 
skep,  but  they  are  quite  as  firm  as 
when  pitted.  Have  others  tried  this 
way  of  keeping  Apples  ?  " 


Irises  from  Haarlem. 
Mr.  C.    G.    van   Tubergen,  jun., 
sends  us  from  his  Haarlem  Nurseries 
some  very  beautiful  Irises   of  the 
Regelio-cyolus   section,  there  being 
many  new  and  distinct  colours  among 
them.    The  markings  in  these  Irises 
are    particularly     attractive.      He 
writes:     "The     great     advantage 
of    this     race    over    the     ordinary   Oncooyolus 
(Cushion)  Irises,  such  as  susiana,  iberica,  Lorteti, 
&o.,  is  that  the  Regelio-cyclus   varieties   grow 
always  luxuriantly  and  flower  profusely,  whereas 
the  Cushions  usually  prove  a  failure. " 


A  SUMMER-HOUSE  DESIGNED   AND   ERECTED   BY   MR.    J.    P.    WHITE. 


BOOKS. 


Garden  Deslgrn.*— The  excellent  intro- 
duction to  this  interesting  little  publication  is 
well  worth  reading,  the  author  dealing  with  the 
art  of  gardening  from  the  remote  past  right  down 
to  the  present  time,  comparing  in  the  latter 
part  of  his  introduction  Japanese  and  Eoglish 
gardening  of  the  present  day.  The  second  portion 
of  the  brochure  is  devoted  mainly  to  very  beautiful 
illustrations  of  Japanese  designs  adapted  to 
English  gardens,  a  feature  of  garden  designing 
to  which  Mr.  White  has  devoted  considerable 
attention.  The  accompanying  illustration  of  a 
summer-house  with  trellis  shutters  is  taken  from 
hi  J  p'lblication,  but  there  are   many  others  even 


"  Any  fruit  to  be  used  may  be  first  washed,  and 
this  should  always  be  done  when  it  is  at  all  dusty 
or  dirty."  He  gives  instructions  as  to  the  right 
way  to  wash  the  fruit,  and  further  says : 
"  There  is  no  need  for  the  fruit  to  be  dried 
before  bottling."  We  strongly  commend  the 
author's  advice  as  to  the  need  for  washing  soiled 
fruit,  but  we  would  prefer  to  have  it  well  dried 
before  bottling.  All  the  needful  operations, 
from  the  gathering  to  the  final  work  connected 
with  the  bottling,  are  given  in  a  simple  way  that 
can  readily  be  understood  and  followed  by  a 
beginner.  Much  careful  interest  is  now  being 
taken  in  the  cultivation  of  fine  fruits  in  this 
country,  and  this  little  book  comes  as  a  timely 
reminder  that  it  is  the  duty  of  every  housewife 
to  make  the  utmost  use  of  the  fruits  when  they 
are  ripe,  and  tells  all  how  to  do  them. 


'■^  "Garden  Design,"  with  an  introduction  by  Kowland 
E.  Prothero.  Published  by  John  P.  White,  The  Pyghtle 
Works,  Bedford,  and  134,  New  Bond  Street,  W. 

t  "  Home-bottled  Fruits  and  How  to  Do  Them."  By 
W.  S.  Brewer,  price  6d.  net.  Messrs.  Harvey  and  Healing, 
Manchester  Street,  Cheltenham. 


should  have  been  planted  not  later  than  February 
in  well-prepared  garden  soil  and  at  5  inches 
below  the  surface.  The  plants  are  now  very 
forward  in  spike,  and  any  bulbs  planted  so  late 
will  hardly  give  any  good  result.  The  Auriculas 
may  be  divided  by  shaking  away  the  soil,  or 
even  washing  it  away,  and  pulling — not  cutting — 
the  plants  asunder.  The  point  of  a  knife  may  be 
inserted  here  and  there  to  give  a  start,  as  it 
were,  to  the  best  line  for  separation,  taking  care 
that  each  portion  has  its  complement  of  root- 
fibres.  In  the  replanting  or  repotting  the 
divisions  should  be  buried  right  up  to  the  leaves, 
as  the  plants  continue  to  emit  roots  from  the 
stems.  The  plants  may  be  divided  as  soon  as 
the  flowering  is  over.  Seeds  of  the  Aubrietias 
should  have  been  sown  weeks  ago,  but  if 
sown  now  a  little  extra  care  in  a  cold  frame  will 
give  you  small  plants  by  the  end  of  the  season. 
The  seeds  of  almost  all  classes  of  hardy  plants 
should  be  sown  from  November  to  January 'in- 
clusive, the  object  being  to  give  the  seedlings 
the  longest  possible  season  of  natural  growth  in 
the  first  year. 


29ff 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[June  12,  1909. 


Layeping:  Tree  Pseonies  [H.  E.  F.). 
The  simplest  and  most  useful  way  to  layer  the 
Tree  Pceony  is  to  layer  the  young  shoots  in 
spring  before  the  buds  push,  pegging  them  down 
to  the  ground,  or  into  pots  sunk  in  it,  and 
making  a  ring  in  the  bark  round  each  bud, 
covering  this  part  of  the  branch  with  soil  such 
as  that  in  which  the  plants  are  growing.  Older 
branches  may  also  be  layered  in  the  same  manner 
in  September,  and  the  layers  should  in  both 
cases  remain  on  the  plants  until  they  have  rooted. 
Grafting  is  more  largely  practised,  but  is  not  so 
suitable  for  the  amateur  as  layering.  Suckers 
may  also  be  secured  in  many  cases  from 
established  plants. 

A  foup-floweped  DafTodil  (B.  Courtenay).— it 
it  unusual  for  any  Daffodil  to  have  four  flowers  on  one 
stem.  Instances  of  plants  with  two  on  a  stem  are  fairly 
common,  but  we  cannot  call  to  mind  any  instance  of  one 
bearing  four.  We  presume,  of  course,  that  the  variety  in 
which  you  noticed  this  freak  was  one  of  the  Magnis  or 
Medios,  and  not  a  small-flowered  bunch  Narcissus.  We 
wish  you  had  given  us  its  name. 

Name  of  semi-double  Tulip  (J.  Sheppard).— 
We  have  enquired  among  both  English  and  Dutch  Tulip 
experts  as  to  the  name  of  the  variety  you  sent  us  and 
none  of  them  know  it.  Probably,  as  it  is  only  a  small 
flower,  it  has  never  been  named  and  sold  only  in  mixtures. 
We  wonder  if  you  bought  it  in  a  mixed  lot,  and  would  be 
interested  to  know. 


TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 

VThen  to  take  cuttlngrs  of  fiowep- 
in^tPees  (M.  <S.).— The  best  time  to  take 
cuttings  of  the  majority  of  flowering  trees  and 
shrubs  is  from  July  to  September  :  but  some  of 
those  you  mention  are  not  easily  propagated 
by  means  of  cuttings,  and  are  usually  either 
budded  or  grafted.  The  only  one  that  you 
mention  that  succeeds  fairly  well  from  cuttings 
is  Prunus  triloba.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots 
should  be  taken  just  as  they  are  getting  firm, 
inserting  them  in  pots  of  sandy  soil  in  a  propa- 
gating case.  Unless  you  understand  budding 
and  grafting  well  you  will  do  better  to  purchase 
young  plants  of  the  remaining  things  you  mention, 
for  they  can  be  obtained  very  cheaply  and  quickly 
from  good  specimens.  Your  Lilacs  that  do  not 
flower  probably  require  well  thinning  out.  Try 
taking  out  the  weak  wood  and  thinning  the  young 
shoots.  If  the  work  is  done  at  once  you  may 
probably  get  a  crop  of  flowers  next  year. 

Tpeatment  of  Azalea  mollis  (A.  B.).  — 
Your  better  plan  will  be  to  cut  back  the  straggling 
branches  of  the  Azalea  mollis  at  once,  in  order  to  give  it 
as  Ion;;;  a  growing  season  as  possible.  The  best  time  to 
transplant  Magnolia  conspicua  is  the  latter  part  of 
October  and  in  November. 


how  you  may  exhibit  blooms  of  your  new  Rose  at  an 
exhibition  of  that  society.    (3)  There  would  be  no  fee. 

Roses  falling  (German).— Do  not  give  these  weakly 
Roses  any  of  the  artificial  manure.  If  you  have  had  no 
rain  a  good  watering  would  be  benetlcial,  and  you  could 
further  help  them  by  lightly  forking  up  the  soil  round 
about  their  base,  and  afford  a  good  syringing  to  the 
growths  and  stems  every  morning  and  evening. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Rose  follagre  bllgrhted  In  Jamaica 

{Roaarian). — The  foliage  of  your  plants  of  Paul 
Neyron  is  afi'ected  with  a  disease  known  as  black 
spot  (Aetinonema  rosse).  This  is  an  injurious 
fungus,  as  it  not  only  causes  premature  defolia- 
tion, but  the  buds  are  made  to  expand  before 
their  time.  This  disease  should  be  attacked  in 
the  spring  by  frequently  spraying  the  plants  with 
sulphide  of  potassium  or  other  good  fungicide, 
such  as  Bordeaux  mixture.  All  you  can  do  now 
is  to  remove  at  once  all  badly  diseased  leaves 
and  burn  them  immediately,  also  any  on  the 
ground.  Many  growers  find  transplanting  the 
Roses  to  a  new  position  one  of  the  best  remedies, 
especially  if  the  plants  and  surface  soil  are 
frequently  sprayed  as  mentioned  above.  The 
foliage  of  the  climbing  Malmaison  is  badly 
aflfeeted  with  mildew.  There  are  so  many 
circumstances  that  cause  this  fungus  to  appear, 
one  of  the  most  frequent  being  the  sudden  change 
in  the  temperature  and  drought.  An  excellent 
remedy,  if  persisted  in,  is  .leyes's  Cyllin  Soft 
Soap. 

Rose  Hectop  Mackenzie  (liingmore).  —  The 
colour  of  this  variety  is  deep  rose,  shaded  with  silvery 
carmine  and  crimson. 

Questions  about  Roses  (Burton)  — (l)  We  know 
of  no  register  for  new  Roses.  (2)  Apply  to  Mr.  E.  Mawley, 
Rosebank,  Berkhamsted,  Herts,  hon.  secretary  of  the 
National  Rose  Society,  and  he  will  give  you  instructions 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Planting^  and  training  Tomatoes 

in  a  fpame  {Anxious^  West  Derby). — You 
may  grow  the  plants,  as  suggested,  in  the  frame  ; 
but  the  better  plan  would  be  to  put  them  in  at 
the  front  of  the  frame  and  train  the  branches 
upwards  towards  the  back,  in  the  same  way  that 
plants  and  Vines  are  trained  under  the  roof  glass 
in  a  vinery.  Use  good  fibrous  loam  and  one  peck 
of  old  mortar  rubble  to  three  bushels  of  the  loam 
for  the  plants  to  grow  on.  The  rooting  medium 
must  be  made  very  firm  and  feeding  commenced 
when  two  trusses  of  fruits  have  formed. 

StlmulatiniT  Onion  growth  {W.  C.).— Voudo 
not  tell  us  wiiether  your  Onions  are  autumn  bowd,  spring 
sown,  or  raised  under  glass  from  a  midwinter  sowing  and 
are  now  planted  out  thinly.  If  from  autumn  or  spring 
outdoor  sowings,  thin  the  plants  in  the  rows  to 
9  inches  apart  at  least ;  if  from  a  January  sowing  and 
planted  out,  they  should  be  fully  12  inches  apart  in  the 
rows,  and  those  18  inches  apart.  Just  at  present  it  is  not 
desirable  to  give  any  stimulus  other  than  water  if  the 
soil  be  dry  ;  but  if  fairly  damp  the  best  thing  is  to  place  all 
over  the  ground  about  the  plants  and  between  the  rows  a 
mulch  of  decayed  manure,  very  short,  1  inch  thiek  ;  this 
will  help  to  preserve  the  moisture  and  gradually  wash  in. 
Then  when  the  bulbs  begin  to  form  and  roots  have  gone 
deep,  make  holes  with  a  crowbar  1  foot  deep  and  fill  those 
once  a  week  with  liquid  manure  made  from  soot  and  horse- 
manure,  a  bushel  of  the  latter  to  tweaty  gallons  of 
water.  Make  the  holes  6  inches  from  the  plants,  and 
when  filled  draw  manure  over  them. 

Hoiv  to  grpow  Cucumbeps  (ff.  r.).— You  do 
not  say  whether  you  wish  to  Rrow  them  in  a  house  or  in  a 
frame.  If  you  have  a  glass  house  heated  with  hot  water, 
it  is  a  very  simple  and  easy  matter  to  grow  Cucumbers  to 
perfection  in  summer.  Should  you  have  a  stage  on  the 
front  or  the  back  side  of  your  house,  place  on  this  a  layer  of 
fermenting  stable  manure  9  inches  deep  and  2  feet  wide, 
with  some  leaves  if  you  have  thera,  pressing  the  heap 
down  ttrmly.  This  will  afford  a  slight  bottom-heat  to  give 
the  plants  a  good  start  and  for  the  roots  to  permeate 
later  when  the  plants  are  bearing  heavy  crops.  On  this 
manure  place  a  layer  of  soil  composed  of  the  following: 
To  a  barrow-loAd  of  good  turfy  loam  add  a  peck  of  partly 
decayed  leaf-mould  and  two  pecks  of  well-decayed 
manure  ;  spent  Mushroom-bed  manure  answers  the  pur- 
pose very  well.  Sow  the  seed  in  this  layer  of  soil  as  soon 
as  it  is  formed  2  feet  apart,  two  seeds  together,  in  case 
one  fails.  If  both  germinate,  the  weakest  plant  must  be 
dispensed  with  and  only  one  allowed  to  grow.  At  this 
time  of  the  year  the  plants,  once  started,  will  grow  rapidly 
and  soon  reach  the  trellis,  and  should  give  a  few  fruits  in 
from  six  to  eight  weeks  from  sowing.  The  Cucumber 
revels  in  a  high,  moist  temperature.  Ventilation  during 
sunny  days  must  be  given  in  the  morning  to  prevent  the 
temperature  rising  too  high,  that  is  to  say,  from  75=*  to  83" 
Fahr.  In  the  afternoon,  when  the  sun  is  on  the  decline, 
say,  about  3.S0  p.m.,  the  plants  should  be  copiously 
syringed  and  the  house  immediately  closed,  by  which 
action  (for  a  short  time)  the  temperature  will  be  con- 
siderably raised,  possibly  reaching  85°  to  88°  with  advan- 
tage. Cucumber  plants  in  good  health  are  better  without 
shade ;  but  if  not  healthy,  then  slight  shade  should  be 
applied  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day.  If  there  is 
no  stage  in  your  house,  the  bed  may  be  formed  on  the 
floor  in  the  same  way  as  above  stated,  only  3  inches 
should  be  added  to  the  depth  of  the  manure.  If  it  is 
only  a  frame  that  you  have,  a  hot-bed  will  have  to  be 
formed  in  the  usual  way  and  the  same  sort  of  soil  added. 
You  must  not  plant  out  the  plants  until  the  bottom-heat 
has  declined  to  70''  Fahr.  The  after-treatment  as  regards 
temperature,  syringing  and  closing  up  will  be  the  same  as 
advised  for  house  culture.  The  plants  cannot  be  fruited  in 
so  short  a  timf^  in  a  frame  as  in  a  heated  house. 


beetles,  but  I  cannot  say  of  what  species.  They,  like 
their  parents,  feed  on  smaller  insects,  &c.,  and  are  of 
considerable  use  in  gardens  in  this  respect.  I  could  not 
find  any  insects  among  the  moss.— G.  S.  S. 

Slime  in  pond  {Bril(iant).— It  is  highly  probable 
that  the  slime  weed  is  contained  in  the  water  itself  in  your 
case,  and  we  should  quite  expect  to  see  it  in  the  new  pond 
also.  The  sulphate  of  copper  only  destroys  the  growing 
plants,  but  there  may  exist  a  large  number  of  seeds  also, 
and  these  contin-je  to  spring  into  life  from  time  to  time. 
We  fear  we  can  only  recommend  you  to  drag  the  pond 
frequently,  and  in  this  way  endeavour  to  weaken  its 
growth. 

Book  on  Flopa  of  Cape  Colony  (C.  S.  Gordon). 
We  are  sorry  to  say  that  we  do  not  know  of  an  illustrated 
inexpensive  book  on  the  Flora  of  Cape  Colony.  The 
majority  of  books  on  the  subject  are  expensive  ones  and 
usually  not  illustrated.  "The  Genera  of  South  African 
Plants,'  by  William  Henry  Harvey,  M  D.,  F.R.S.,  Ac, 
186^,  published  by  Longmans,  Green,  Reader  and  Dyer, 
London,  is  one  of  the  cheapest.  "  Flowering  Plants  and 
Ferns  of  the  Cape  Peninsula,"  by  Harry  Bolus,  F.L.S.,  and 
Major  A.  H.  Wolley-Dod,  published  in  October,  190;i,  in  the 
Transactions  of  the  South  African  Philosophical  Society, 
Vol.  XIV.,  Part  3,  is  also  a  useful  work.  Perhaps  if  you 
tried  a  secondhand  book  shop  you  would  be  able  to  obtain 
one  of  the  more  expensive  works  at  a  moderate  price. 

Names  of  plants.—^.  C.  r.— Crataegus  coccinea. 

J.    K— Pyrus  floribunda. M.   E.   P.  — Ligustrum 

lucidum  tricolor  and  Spiraea  arguta.  The  small  yellow 
Azalea  is  Rhododendron  flavum  and  the  others  are  forms 

of  R.   sinense  (Azalea  mollis). D.    W.  L.  —  Primula 

Forbesii. K.  E.  7.— Tragapogon  pratense. Grain.— 

Ledum  latifolium. Rev.    Gordon   Wickliary.—Collomia. 

coccinea. G.   Rea.—l,  Staphylea    pinnata ;    2,   Phlox 

subulata  Nelsoni;  3,  P.  lilacina;  4,  P.  amcena;  5,Saxifraga 
Wallace! ;  0,  Rhododendron  catawbiense  fastuosum  fl,-pl. ; 
7,  R.  c.  variety. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Book  on  Violets  iChloe).—TBB  Garden  has  always 
given  wide  and  special  prominence  in  its  pages  to  the 
growth  of  the  Sweet  Violet.  It  was  the  subject  of 
a  prize  essay  in  our  issue  for  January  5.  1907,  and  this  we 
think  you  would  do  well  to  consult.  We  know  of  no  book 
devoted  exclusively  to  Violets,  but  there  is  one  published 
at  this  office  on  Violets  and  Pansies,  post  free  38.  lOd. 

Gpubs  fop  Inspection  (T.  H.).— Vour  box  No.  l 
contained  specimens  of  a  caterpillar  very  much  dried  up, 
but  they  were  probably  those  of  Hepialus  lupulinus,  the 
garden  swift  moth.  They  were  most  likely  the  cause  of 
most  of  the  mischief.  A  dressing  of  Kilogrub  or  some 
similar  compound  should  be  useful.  No  liquid  insecti- 
cide is  of  any  use.  In  No.  2  the  grub  was  assuming  the 
chrysalis  condition  and  was  so  altered  in  appearance  that 
I  cannot  say  what  it  was.  No.  3  contained  specimens  of 
the  grub  of  a  beetle,  but  I  do  not  recognise  them.  No.  4: 
The  grubs  are  those  of  one  of  the  carnivorous  ground 


PRIZES     FOR    READERS. 

JUNE. 

THE  PRINCIPAL  INSECT  FRIENDS 
AND  FOES  OF  THE  GARDEN, 
AND  THE  BEST  MEANS  OF 
EXTERMINATING    THE    LATTER. 


A  FJnt  PrUe  of  FOUR  GUINEAS, 

A   Second  PrUe   of  TWO   GUINEAS, 

A  Third  Prize  of  ONE  GUINEA, 

And  a  Fourtli  Prize  of  HALF-A'OUINEA 

are  offered  far  the  best  essays  on  the  Ofbove 
svbject. 
The  noteB  (reatrioted  to  1,500  words)  must  be 
vrritten  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only,  and  be 
snolosed  in  an  envelope  marked  "  Competition," 
iddressed  to  "  The  Editor  of  Thh  Gabdhn,  20, 
Tavietook  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C."  The 
essays  most  reach  this  office  not  later  than 
Wednesday,  June  30.  Both  amateur  and  pro- 
fessional gardeners  may  compete,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  those  who  contribute  regularly  to 
the  pages  of  Tkh  Gasdbn  will  not  do  so.  The 
name  and  address  of  the  competitor  must  be 
written  upon  the  MS. ,  and  not  upon  a  separate 
piece  of  paper.  The  Editor  accepts  no  responsi- 
bility for  and  cannot  undertake  to  return  the 
MSS.  of  unsuccessful  competitors.  The  Editor's 
decision  is  final. 


SOCIETIES. 


SCOTTISH  HORTICULTURAL  ASSOCIATION. 
The  monthly  meeting  of  the  Scottish  Horticultural 
Association  was  held  in  the  Hall,  St.  Andrew  Square, 
Edinburgh,  on  the  evening  of  June  1.  There  was  a  good 
attendance,  presided  over  by  Mr.  James  Whytock,  Dalkeith 
Palace  Gardens,  president  of  the  association.  The 
exhibits  before  the  meeting  were  excellent,  but  cannot  be 
detailed  for  want  of  space.  They  included  exhibits  from 
Messrs.  Dicksons  and  Co.,  Edinburgh  ;  Mr.  John  Downie, 
Edinburgh;  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay ;  Mr.  D.  W. 
Thomson  and  others.  The  paper  of  the  evening  was  by 
Mr.  Mungo  Chapman,  Torbrex  Nurseries,  Stirling,  the 
subject  being  "The  History  and  Introduction  of  Fruit- 
bearing  Plants  into  Britain."  Mr.  Chapman  gave  a 
capital  account  of  the  different  fruit-bearing  plants  and  of 
their  introduction,  giving  many  details  regarding  them  not 
commonly  known,  and  showing  that  he  had  devoted  much 
time  and  research  to  the  study  of  his  theme.  The  paper 
was  much  appreciated,  and  after  the  discussion,  which  was 
generally  appreciative,  the  chairman  conveyed  the  thanks 
of  the  meeting  to  Mr.  Chapman. 


GARDEN. 


'y^>=^^ 


Jifo.  1961.  -Vol.  LXXIII. 


June  19,  1909. 


CONTBNTS 


I'HE  National  Vege- 
table Society       ..    297 
Prizes  for  Readers      . .    298 
Nona  OF  THH  Wkbk 
Flowers  at  the  White 
City 298 

COERESPONDENOE 

Artificial  manures   . .     298 

Rhododendrons  in 
the  Royal  Botanic 
Gardens,  Regent's 
Parii 299 

Notes  from  a  Surrey 
Rose  garden  . .     299 

The  beautiful  Meco- 
nopsis  integrifolia      299 

Mr.  Harry  J.  Veiteh, 
V.M.H 299 

Vitality  of  Orchids   .     299 
■H'LOWEE  Oakdkn 

The  hardy  Primulas      300 

Sweet  Pea  chat        . .     300 

ElTOHEN  OAKDEN 

Small      winter 
Cabbages     for 
amateurs        . .     . .    300 
Sir    Josslyn     Gore- 
Booth's     Eissadell 

Nurseries 301 

Coloured  Plate 
Rare   and    beautiful 
Clematises     . .     . .    302 


ROSE  Garden 
Artificial  manures  for 

Roses       303 

ffRDiT  Garden 
Hints    on     Vine 

culture 303 

A  famous  Wistaria     . .    303 
Gardening  foe  Beqinners 
Garden  work  week  by 

304 


Celery     culture     for 

beginners       . .     , ,     304 
How  to  stake  border 

plants      305 

Border    Chrysanthe- 
mums           305 

The  Town  Gaeden  . .    305 
gabderina  of  the  week 
For  the    South    and 

Sonth  Midlands    . .    306 
For  the  North    and 
North  Midlands         308 
May -flowering    Tulips 
at  Colchester    . .     . .    306 

New  plants 307 

answers     to    Cobee- 
spondentb 
Flower  garden  . .     . .     307 


THE  NATIONAL  VEGETABLE 
SOCIETY. 


Greenhouse . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Fruit  garden  . . 
Miscellaneous  . . 


307 
308 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A  clump  of  MecODopsis  integrifolia 299 

Narcissus  Incognita       . ,     . .     301 

Rare  and  beautiful  Clematises Coloured  plate 

A  wall  garden  at  Lissadell 302 

A  remarkable  Wistaria 303 

€elery  culture  for  beginners       304,  305 


EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
Gaeden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  '^Answers  to  C<yrrespondents"  columns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  a/re  printed,  h£  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  communicati<ms  m.ust  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  a-nd  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  vnll  not  be  responsrible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions. 

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  he 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  oumer  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  unth.  

Ttie  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  -use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  Garden 
wiU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


O flees:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Owrden,  W.C 


WE  are  pleased  to  announce  that, 
mainly  through  the  oorrespon- 
denoe  which  appeared  in  The 
Garden  some  weeks  ago, 
wherein  was  advocated  the 
need  for  a  National  Vegetable  Society,  such 
a  society  has  been  formed,  and  we  give 
below  the  objects  and  rules  which  have  been 
drawn  up  and  passed  by  the  committee.  The 
need  of  tuch  a  society  must  be  evident  to  all  who 
cultivate  vegetables ;  and  even  those  who  only 
consume  them  realise  that  there  is  much  work  in 
the  way  of  improvement  to  be  done.  When  we 
consider  the  value  of  vegetables  as  compared  with 
that  of  flowers,  the  necessity  for  such  an  organisa- 
tion will  be  apparent  to  all  our  readers.  Finance, 
of  course,  will  be  the  most  important  feature  in 
the  success  or  otherwise  of  the  National  Vege- 
table Society  ;  but,  after  reading  the  objects  and 
rules,  subscriptions  should  not  be  difficult  to 
obtain.  Undoubtedly  there  is  now  an  increasing 
interest  taken  in  high-class  vegetables  by  owners 
of  gardens,  gardeners  (both  amateur  and  profes- 
sional) and  also  by  salesmen,  and  to  foster  this 
interest  will  be  one  of  the  aims  of  the  society. 
Another  important  feature  will  be  the  holding  of 
trials.  This  to  the  ordinary  individual  may 
present  difficulties,  but  there  are  some  earnest, 
practical  men  on  the  committee,  and  the  holding 
of  trials  will,  we  venture  to  predict,  not  present 
any  serious  difficulties,  and  will  produce  most 
useful  and  far-reaching  results. 

Then  there  will  be  the  promotion  of  exhibi- 
tions of  vegetables  or  the  arranging  of  classes 
for  them  at  various  horticultural  shows 
throughout  the  country.  Apparently  in  the  past 
we  have  been  carried  away,  so  to  speak,  by 
the  love  of  flowers,  and  consequently  vege- 
tables have  not  been  sufficiently  considered. 
As  much  or  even  more  skill  is  needful  to 
produce  high-class  vegetables  as  flowers,  and 
this  skill  should  be  duly  acknowledged  by 
all  horticultural  societies,  and  not  ignored, 
or  nearly  so,  as  is  now  the  ease.  That 
vegetable  exhibits  can  be  made  attractive  has 
been  proved  by  our  best  growers.  What  the 
committee  wants  now  more  than  anything  else  is 
members,  and  we  appeal  to  our  readers  to 
support  this  important  and  far-reaching  move- 
ment. The  annual  subscription  is  not  a  large 
one.  The  hon.  treasurer  is  Mr.  G.  Wythes, 
V.M.H.,  Hopefield  House,  Windmill  Road, 
Brentford,  W. ,  to  whom  subscriptions  should  be 
sent.  The  hon.  secretary  is  Mr.  E.  G.  Quick, 
Kelmscott,  Harrow  View,  Wealdstone,  Harrow, 
from  whom  particulars  can  be  obtained. 


Objects  and  Rules  of  the  Society. 

1.  The  title  of  this  society  shall  be  "The 
National  Vegetable  Society,"  and  its  object  shall 
be  to  promote  the  wider  cultivation  of  vegetables 
as  food  products,  to  encourage  their  consumption 
as  food,  to  promote  exhibitions  of  such  products, 
whether  competitive  or  otherwise,  and  to  hold 
trials  under  such  conditions  as  may  offer 
with  a  view  to  finding  the  best  varieties  to 
commend  for  general  culture  and  to  ascertain 
commercial  values  when  grown  under  ordinary 
conditions. 

2.  Membership  shall  be  open  to  all  persons 
who  will  pay  an  annual  subscription  of  not  less 
than  5s. ,  and  who  are  in  entire  agreement  with 
the  objects  above  stated. 

3.  Executive  body. — The  governing  body  of 
the  society  shall  be  a  president,  vice-presidents, 
treasurer  and  secretary,  who,  together  with  an 
executive  committee  not  exceeding  twenty-four 
members,  shall  be  elected  annually. 

4.  Annual  meeting.  — An  annual  general  meet- 
ing of  all  members  shall  be  held  in  the  month  of 
January  each  year,  when  the  report  of  the 
committee's  work  for  the  previous  year  shall  be 
read,  and  a  duly  audited  balance  sheet  of 
accounts  presented.  The  annual  election  of 
officers  and  committee  shall  also  then  be  held. 
Two  auditors  shall  be  elected  at  such  meeting. 

5.  Meetings  of  the  committee  shall  be  con- 
vened by  the  secretary  from  time  to  time  as  the 
business  of  the  society  may  require,  as  the 
committee  itself  shall  determine,  or  on  the 
request  of  any  four  members  of  the  committee, 
such  request  to  be  made  in  writing  to  the 
secretary.  The  committee  shall  elect  its  own 
chairman  and  vice-chairman  at  its  first  meet- 
ing immediately  following  the  annual  general 
meeting. 

6.  Subscriptions  become  due  on  the  first  day  of 
the  month  of  January  in  each  year,  and  should 
be  paid  through  the  treasurer,  who  shall  forward 
an  official  receipt  to  the  member  for  the  same  at 
the  earliest  possible  date.  All  cheques  should 
be  made  payable  to  the  National  Vegetable 
Society. 

7.  All  members  will  be  entitled  to  vote  at  the 
general  meetings,  and  also  be  eligible  for  election 
on  the  executive  committee.  Members  will  also 
be  entitled  to  receive  copies  of  any  reports  or 
publications  issued  by  the  society  and  to  exhibit 
at  any  show  or  in  any  classes  arranged  by  the 
society. 

8.  All  trials  conducted  by  the  society  shall  be 
thoroughly  impartial  and  designed  to  elicit  useful 
information.  They  shall  be  under  the  control  of 
a  special  trial  sub-committee  of  not  less  than 
three  members,  who  shall  be  responsible  to  the 
general  committee. 


298 


THE    GARDEN. 


[June  19,  1909. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


FOKTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

June  28. — Isle  of  Wight  Rose  Society. 
June  29. — Southampton   Royal   Horticultural 
Society's  Rose  Show  (two  days). 


Honour    top     Messrs      Joseph 

Bentley. — Messrs.  Joseph  Bentley,  Limited, 
of  Barrowon-Humber,  Hull,  have  been  granted 
the  Royal  Warrant  of  Appointment  as  Horti- 
cultural Chemical  Manufacturers  to  the  King. 

The  Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent 

Institution.  —  The  seventieth  anniversary 
festival  dinner  in  aid  of  the  funds  of  this  insti- 
tution will  be  held  at  the  Hotel  Metropole  on 
Wednesday,  June  23,  when  Lionel  de  Rothschild, 
Esq.,  will  preside.  Contributions  to  be  placed 
on  the  chairman's  list  are  earnestly  solicited,  and 
may  be  sent  to  Lionel  de  Rothschild,  Esq.,  New 
Court,  St.  Swithin's  Lane,  E.G.,  or  to  the  secre- 
tary, Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  at  the  oflSces,  175, 
Victoria  Street,  Westminster,  S.W. 

Victoria  Medal  of  Honour 
for  Mr.  R.  W^ilSOn  Ker.— On  Tuesday, 
the  8th  inst.,  the  council  of  the  Royal  Hor- 
ticultural Society  conferred  the  honour  of 
the  Victoria  Medal  of  Honour  upon  Mr.  R. 
Wilson  Ker,  the  well-known  horticulturist  of 
Liverpool.  All  who  know  Mr.  Wilson  and  the 
immense  amount  of  good  work  that  he  has 
done  for  horticulture  will  agree  with  us  that 
the  honour  is  conferred  where  it  is  thoroughly 
deserved. 

Flowers  at  the  W^hlte  City.— The 
grounds  around  the  Canadian  Pavilion,  on  the 
occasion  of  the  opening  of  the  Franco-British 
Charity  Fete  and  Bazaar  at  the  White  City, 
were  placed  at  the  disposal  of  Messrs.  Kelway 
and  Son,  the  well-known  horticulturists,  ef 
Langport,  Somerset,  for  the  display  of  some  of 
their  celebrated  improvements  in  hardy  border 
flowers,  which  they  have  kindly  given  and 
planted  for  the  purpose.  The  grounds  sur- 
rounding the  Australian  and  Indian  Palaces 
at  the  Imperial  Exhibition  have  also  been 
beautified  by  Messrs.  Kelway  and  Son,  who  have 
as  well  an  exhibit  already  in  full  flower  in  the 
Court  of  Progress. 

Harry    Veltch   Portrait  Fund.— 

The  following  is  a  list  of  subscribers  received 
up  to  date.  If  anyone  else  is  desirous  of 
co-operating,  they  are  requested  to  do  so  at  once, 
as  the  list  must  be  closed  in  a  few  days'  time. 
It  is  hoped  that  the  fund  may  allow  of  sending  a 
photogravure  to  every  subscriber  of  £1  Is.  and 
upwards.  Cheques  should  be  made  payable  to 
either  H.  B.  May,  Stanmore,  Chingford  ;  or  to 
the  Rev.  W.  Wilks  (treasurer),  Shirley  Vicarage, 
Croydon.  Baron  Sehroder,  J.  C.  Williams,  Sir 
Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart.,  K.C.V.O.,  Colonel 
Holford,  CLE.,  C.V.O.,  Lord  RothschUd, 
Leopold  de  Rothschild,  Alfred  de  Rothschild, 
J.  Gurney  Fowler,  James  Hudson,  V.M.H., 
James  Sweet,  V.M.H.,  N.  N.  Sherwood, 
V.M.H.,  Jos.  Roohford,  E.  A.  Bowles,  Sir 
Albert  RoUit,  E.  Ledger,  Colonel  the  Right  Hon. 
M.  Lockwood,  C.V.O.,  M.P.,  J.  Jacques,  0. 
Thomas,  V.M.H.,  A.  H.  Pearson,  J.  F.  MoLeod, 

F.  Sander,  V.M.H.,  A.  Dean,  V.M.H.,  O.  J. 
Ingram,  the  Earl  of  Ducie,  James  O'Brien, 
V.M.H.,  R.  H.  Pearson,  W.  J.  Nutting,  W. 
Robinson,  Rev.  Professor  Henslow,  V.M.H. , 
E.  Mawley,  V.M.  H. ,  Norman  Cookson,  Sir 
Daniel  Morris,  K.C.M.G.,  V.M.H.,  Lawrence 
Currie,  H.  G.  Cove,  A.  Watkins,  Stuart  H.  Low, 
C.  J.  Lucas,  Fred  W.  Moore,  V.M.H.,  Professor 
Church,  Professor  Bateson,  F.R.S.,  R.  G. 
Thwaites,  E.  Beckett,  V.  M.  H. ,  Edmund  Rochford, 
E.  C.  Mott,  W.  Y.  Baker,  W.  Iceton,  G. 
Cuthbert,  James  Walker,  W.  Sams,  G.  Bunyard, 
V.M.H  ,  G.  Paul,  V.M.H.,   Sutton  and    Sons, 

G.  Monro,  V.M.H.,  W.  Bain,  S.  T.  Wright, 
Sir  Jeremiah   Colman,   Bart.,   Sir    John    Aird, 


R.  W.  Wallace,  W.  Crump,  V.M.H.,  E.  T. 
Cook,  R.  C.  Sanders,  W.  T.  Ware,  J.  Douglas, 
V.M.H.,  C.  H.  Curtis,  A.  L.  Wigan,  W.  J. 
Jeffries,  H.  Ballantine,  V.M.H.,  J.  Green,  J. 
Howe,  W.  H.  Page,  H.  Little,  W.  Bates,  W.  H. 
Thomson,  H.  A.  Tracy,  Robert  Sydenham, 
C.  Sorase  Diokins,  Protheroe  and  Morris,  A.  J. 
Monro,  Bight  Hon.  Joseph  Chamberlain,  M. P., 
A.  Kingsmill,  Herbert  Adams,  Rev.  F.  Page- 
Roberts,  W.  P.  Horton,  W.  Goldring,  Oswald 
Wrigley,  Colonel  Beddome,  T.  Turton,  Charles 
Ross,  V.M.H.,  Professor  Bayley  Balfour,  C. 
Allen,  Lady  Theodora  Guest,  W.  A.  Bilney, 
C.  C.  Hurst,  H.  G.  Alexander,  Clay  and  Son, 
James  and  A.  McBean,  N.  F.  Barnes,  Frank 
Reader,  Waterer  and  Sons,  C.  R.  Fielder,  Sir 
Edmund  Loder,  Bart. ,  C.  E.  Shea,  F.  Menteith 
Ogilvie,  W.  Waters  Butler,  Miss  Willmott, 
V.M.H,  Sir  John  Llewelyn,  Bart.,  W.  E. 
GumbletMi,  the  Lady  Wantage,  Barr  and  Sons, 
S.  M.  Segar,  J.  C.  Grieselbrecht,  W.  Bennett, 
E.  White,  D.  W.  Thomson,  G.  H.  Richards, 
Charlesworth  and  Co. ,  Romain  de  Smet,  Walter 
Cobb,  Pierpont  Morgan,  Sir  Frank  Crisp,  R.  C. 
Notcutt,  T.  Rochford  and  Sons,  Dobbie  and  Co. , 
John  Jennings,  T.  Perkins  and  Sons,  Mrs. 
Earle,  A.  J.  Gaskell,  D.  S.  Thomson,  T.  Rivers 
and  Son,  C.  Dixon,  W.  Marshall,  V.M  H., 
W.  H.  White,  Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  F.  J. 
Hanbury,  Louis  Gentil,  George  Woodward, 
W.  G.  Baker,  Percy  D.  Williams,  Thomas 
Coomber,  E.  H.  Woodall,  W.  Earp,  Francis 
Wellesley,  R.  A.  Milligan  Hogg,  R.  Irwin  Lynch, 
V.M.H.,  E.  H.  Jenkins,  Charles  Smith  and  Sons, 
John  Seden,  J.  Butler,  G.  Reuthe,  M.  Koster 
and  Sons,  A.  MacKellar,  T.  Edwards,  Alexander 
Dickson  and  Son,  J.  Jacob,  Albert  Brassey, 
Pulham  and  Son,  J.  Cypher  and  Son,  A.  A. 
Peeters,  Mrs.  W.  Thompson,  W.  Thompson, 
W.  Stevens,  Charles  Winn  and  family,  and  R. 
Brooman  White.— H.  B.  Mat,  W.  Wilks, 
Joint  Hon.  Secretaries. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the   opiniont 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


Flower  beds  and  borders  for 
begrlnnerS; — I  have  read  with  interest  Mr. 
Boome's  article  on  "Gardening  for  Beginners" 
in  your  issue  of  May  22.  What  strikes  me, 
however,  is  that,  although  the  borders  he 
describes  are,  no  doubt,  beautiful,  they  are  too 
expensive,  and  require  more  time  and  attention 
than  an  ordinary  amateur  gardener  can  afford. 
As  a  rule,  the  owner  of  a  small  garden  wishes  to 
have  it  beautiful,  certainly,  but  at  the  least 
expense  with  the  least  recurrent  labour.  Mr. 
Boome  mentions  "  greenhouse  and  frames," 
"light  syringing  of  the  soil  and  sides  of  the 
frame  morning  and  afternoon,"  "a  store  house 
not  less  than  50  feet  by  8  feet,  with  a  minimum 
temperature  of  50°,"  &c.  Plants  such  as  he 
describes  need  almost  daily  attention  during  the 
winter,  besides  a  great  deal  of  labour  and  care  at 
planting-out  time,  if  not  subsequently.  For  the 
sake  of  those  of  your  readers  who  have  gardens, 
but  who  find  Mr.  Boome's  plan  rather  too  elabo- 
rate, permit  me  to  describe  mine.  I  have  an 
ordinary  suburban  house  withaboutthree-quarters 
of  an  acre  in  all,  wooden  fences  all  round  except  the 
front.  The  soil  is  sandy,  dry  and  poor  ;  manure 
costs  7s.  6d.  to  lOs.  a  load  ;  labour  4s.  to  5s.  a 
day.  When  I  fiist  took  the  house  there  was  not 
a  bush,  tree  nor  shrub  at  the  back  ;  all  we  had 
was  bare  fences,  with  kitchen  garden  and  grass 
in  a  very  rough  state.  There  is  now  no  fence  to 
be  seen  and  the  adjoining  houses  are  screened. 
My  plan  was  to  reduce  labour  to  a  minimum  and 
yet  have  a  pretty  garden.  I  purchased  shrubs 
and  trees  more  or  less  of  the  flowering  type. 
These,  although  planted  without  manure,  have 
done  grandly  ;  they  can  be  bought  very  cheaply 
and  compare  very   favourably   with  the  prices 


which  one  would  pay  for  the  plants  mentioned 
by  Mr.  Boome.  For  instance,  for  high  back- 
ground large  trees  15  feet  high  or  more  can  be 
purchased  from  Is.  6d.  each  if  the  purchaser 
takes  the  risk  of  their  surviving  the  removal. 
Flowering  shrubs  and  trees — and  the  variety  is 
simply  marvellous— can  be  obtained  at  the  cost 
each  of  single  Geranium  plants  of  any  size. 
The  benefit  of  having  permanent  borders  is 
that  they  can  be  kept  in  order  with  very  little 
labour,  and  there  is  practically  no  watering 
required.  With  the  exception  of  two  borders 
around  the  house  I  have  no  bedding  out,  and 
one  man  for  half  a  day  to  a  day  a  week  in  the 
summer  is  quite  sufficient  to  keep  the  place  in 
very  good  order.  Needless  to  say,  I  have  some 
plants,  bushes  or  trees  flowering  from  spring  to 
autumn. — Beginner,  Hants. 
Pancratium    marltlmum.  — it 

appears  to  be  but  little  known  that  Pancratium 
maritimum  is  as  hardy  as  it  is  beautiful.  No 
amount  of  frost  appears  to  affect  it,  and  it  is 
equally  indifferent  to  heat  and  drought.  The 
plants  in  my  garden  are  crowded  with  blossoms 
this  year. — An  Exmouth  Resident. 

Artificial  manures.— Referring  to  the 
letter  of  "  A  User  of  Spent  Hops  "  under  this 
heading  in  The  Garden  of  May  29,  I  should  be 
greatly  obliged  if  the  correspondent  would 
inform  me,  as  an  amateur,  whether  he  has 
dispensed  altogether  with  farmyard  and  other 
natural  manures  for  all  crops,  using  only  (1) 
spent  hops,  (2)  superphosphates,  and  (3)  sulphate 
of  potash  in  the  proportions  stated.  Natural 
manure  seems  to  be  full  of  weed  and  vermin, 
and  I  should  be  glad  to  dispense  with  it. — 
A.  W.  M. 

PolystlChum  lOnChltlS.— As  a  regular 
reader  of  your  excellent  journal,  I  wish  to  point 
out  that  on  page  281  the  illustration  given  (No.  4) 
with  reference  to  the  article  by  "  D.  B.  C. "  is 
not  Polystichum  lonchitis,  neither  do  I  think 
it  would  be  generally  considered  a  suitable  plant 
for  a  room  ;  evidently  the  illustration  is  Cyr- 
tomium  falcatum,  which  would  be  a  good  plant 
for  the  purpose.  These  plants  are  each  often 
called  the  Holly  Fern — one  is  British,  the  other 
exotic — and  it  seems  rather  to  lead  to  confusion  ; 
whereas,  if  the  botanical  names  only  were  used, 
this  difficulty  would  not  arise  and  the  public 
would  soon  get  accustomed  to  them.  A  worse 
feature  which  one  often  hears  is  that  of  calling 
Asparagus  plumosus  a  Fern,  against  which  I  fear 
there  is  very  little  remedy. — F.  N.  Adkin. 

The  Snowy  Mespilus  in 
America. — Your  illustration  of  the  Snowy 
Mespilus  on  page  239  interested  me  very  much, 
though  I  give  it  a  less  poetic  name  ;  it  is  known 
here  as  Shad  Bush,  Juneberry,  or  Service  Berry. 
It  is  one  of  the  first  signs  of  real  spring  in  the 
New  Jersey  lowlands,  making  a  mass  of  feathery 
white  where  all  else  is  bare  save  Alder,  catkins 
and  Pussy  Willow.  The  longshore  name  of 
Shad  Bush  is  given  because  it  is  in  bloom  when  the 
shad,  the  most  aristocratic  member  of  the  herring 
tribe,  is  running  along  our  coast,  just  as  the 
trailing  Arbutus  (Epig^a  repens)  is  called  Shad 
Flower  on  the  Jersey  Coast.  The  true  Ame- 
lanohier  canadensis  grows  to  a  height  of 
25  feet  or  more,  but  there  is  a  dwarf  form,  A. 
botryapium  or  oblongifolia,  which  usually  remains 
a  shapely  tall  bush  rather  than  a  small  tree. 
The  Huckleberry-like  fruit  is  very  pleasant,  but 
is  usually  greedily  devoured  by  birds  before  fully 
ripe.  A  garden  variety,  the  Success  Juneberry, 
grows  about  4  feet  high  and  fruits  very  freely. 
The  Juneberry  is  but  little  planted  here  as  an 
ornament,  perhaps  because  of  its  familiarity,  yet 
its  early  beauty  is  not  excelled  by  any  other 
tree  blooming  at  the  same  time.  Just  at  present 
our  leading  woodland  beauty  is  the  native 
Dogwood  (Cornus  florida),  which  makes  a  sheet 
of  white  among  the  other  trees.  I  am  told  it 
does  not  bloom  nearly  so  freely  in  Europe.  Its 
vivid  autumn  foliage  makes  it  doubly  valuable. — 
Emily  Taplin  Royle,  Maywood,  New  Jersey. 


June  19,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


299 


Oak  tpee  and  Rhododendpon.— It 

may  be  of  interest  to  you  to  know  that  on  a 
branch  of  a  very  old  Oak  tree  here  there  is  a 
self-planted  Rhododendron  with  about  twelve 
blooms  on  it  now.  —  BESSBORon<iH,  Piltown, 
Irelmid. 

Rhododendrons  In  the  Royal 
Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's  PaPK 

I  think  all  lovers  of  Rhododendrons  must  con- 
gratulate Messrs.  Waterer  and  Sons  on  their 
grand  display  at  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens  ;  all 
colours,  trom  the  palest  pink  to  the  deepest 
crimson,  and  some  lovely  specimens  of  creamy 
and  pure  white.  Among  the  rao3t  telling  were 
Lady  Eleanor  Cathcart,  clear  rose  with  crimson 
spots  ;  Frederick  Waterer,  intense  fiery  crimson, 
a  free  bloomer  and  very  beautiful  ;  Minnie, 
bluish  white  with  large  blotch  of  orange  spots, 
most  telling ;  and,  last  but  not  least,  banks  of 
that  exquisite  hybrid,  Pink  Pearl.  Messrs.  Birr 
and  Sons  had  a  small  tent  showing  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  their  dwarf  Japanese  trees,  a  most 
interesting  exhibit  of  Iris  germanioa,  a  small  rock 
garden,  and  the  colours  of  Ranunculus  Mrs.  P.  V. 
Darwin  (Sicilian  strain)  and  R.  Single  Scarlet, 
from  Palestine,  flashed  their  beauty  across  the 
tent. — Charles  Crosby,  P.R.H.S. 

Notes  from  a  Surrey  Rose 
garden.  —  I  have  been  much  interested  in 
"  P.'s"  notes  on  the  Lyon  Rose,  but  am  glad  to 
say  that  in  one  respect  my  small  experience 
differs  from  his.  I  obtained  two  or  three  plants 
from  the  raisers  a  couple  of  years  ago  and  im- 
ported three  or  four  more  last  autumn.  I  have 
now  six  dwarfs  of  that  variety,  and  all  of  them 
have  proved  very  hardy  with  me.  We  had 
32"  of  frost  one  night  last  December,  quite 
abnormal  for  this  part  of  the  country,  and  severe 
night  frosts  well  into  May  ;  but  the  plants  have 
not  suflFered  at  all,  although  many  other  Roses 
have  been  out  down  almost  to  the  ground.  With 
other  varieties  I  have  experienced  the  dying  back 
of  long  and,  apparently,  healthy  shoots  after  they 
had  begun  to  make  leaf,  which  has,  I  believe,  been 
rather  a  feature — and  an  unpleasant  one — of  this 
year's  Rose  growth,  but  not  with  the  variety  in 
question.  The  caterpillar  pest  has  been  very 
virulent  in  this  district  this  year,  and  my  Roses 
have  also  suffered  greatly  from  the  ravages  of 
ants.  I  should  be  interested  to  know  whether 
other  rosarians  have  not  found  that  these  insects 
(never  included  among  Rose  pests)  do  much 
damage,  particularly  to  dwarf  plants,  and  if 
there  is  any  remedy.  One  is  always  told  that 
the  harm  they  do  is  only  indirect,  namely,  by 
carrying  green  fly  to  the  shoots ;  but  my  experience 
of  several  years  is  quite  contrary  to  this.  The 
ants  have  literally  eaten  hundreds  of  buds  ofi"  my 
Rose  plants  this  season.  On  inspection  a  few 
ants  are  seen  on  a  bud,  and,  when  touched,  the 
inside  is  discovered  to  be  teeming  with  the  insects 
which  have  hollowed  it  out.  Constant  stirring 
of  the  soil  round  the  Roses  is  the  only  palliative 
I  have  ever  discovered ;  but  it  is  far  from  success- 
ful, as  they  collect  again  rapidly.  With  this,  as 
with  most  pests,  I  find  certain  varieties  attract 
the  insect  more  than  others.  Caterpillars  are 
found  far  more  frequently  on  certain  Roses  than 
on  others.  For  instance,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  I 
have  always  noticed  to  be  one  that  is  particularly 
attractive  to  the  winter  moth,  and  the  ravages  of 
the  caterpillar  are  very  disastrous  in  consequence. 
I  think  it  would  be  of  great  use  to  amateur 
rosarians  if  your  valuable  paper  were  to  publish 
a  list  of  those  Roses  most  prone  to  be  destroyed 
by  caterpillars  and  also  by  mildew.  It  would 
then  be  easy  to  concentrate  one's  forces  in  using 
preventive  measures  on  those  varieties  early  in 
the  season  by  the  arsenate  of  lead  spraying  for 
the  first  and  V2K  syringing  for  the  second.  This 
latter  I  believe  to  be  a  new  and  a  very  valuable 
aid  for  the  suppression  of  mildew,  if  used  in  time 
and  not  of  too  great  a  strength.  It  would  also  be 
interesting  to  learn  if  other  Rose-growers  have 
found,  as  1  have,  that  many  of  the  new  Hybrid 
Teas  are  particularly  free  from  insect  trouble  of  all 
kinds.     This  would  be  an  encouraging  fact  and 


one  to  make  the  new  type  even  more  popular. 
In  my  own  experience  the  following  are  wonder- 
fully clean  :  Lady  Battersea,  Betty,  Mrs.  Peter 
Blair,  M.  .Joseph  Hill,  Mme.  .Jenny  (Juilleraot, 
General  MoArthur,  Mme.  Melaine  Soupert, 
Countess  of  Derby,  Mme.  Constant  Soupert,  and, 
in  a  less  degree,  .T.  B.  Clark,  Lady  Aahtown  and 
also  the  Lyon  Rose  and  the  newer  China  Teas, 
Comtesse  du  Cayla,  Mme.  Liurette  Messimy, 
Mme.  Euguae  Resal,  &e.  Most  of  the  aoove  need 
very  little  attention  to  keep  them  quite  unspoilt 
by  caterpillar,  sawfly,  aphis,  &c.  ;  but  it  is  not 
their  position  in  the  garden  that  accounts  for 
this,  as,  in  many  instances,  dwarf  bushes  along- 
side and  standards  above  them  are  terribly 
afHicted  by  the  very  pests  from  which  they  are 
free.  I  am  personally  inclined  to  attribute  it  to 
the  fact  of  their  young  foliage  being  in  most 
oases  reddish — not  the  vivid  green  of  Frau  Karl 
Druschki,  which  appears  to  be  so  fatally  attrac- 
tive ;  but  if  the  readers  of  The  Garden  are  able 
to  offer  any  more  plausible  solution,  I  shall  be 
very  grateful. — P.  M.  A. 

The    beautiful    Meconopsls    in- 

tegrlfolla, — I  send  you  a  photograph  I  have 
taken  of  a  patch  of  the  beautiful  Poppy  from 
Thibet,  Meconopsis  integrifolia,  growing  in  this 
garden.  I  have  seventy-five  plants  together, 
raised  from  the  seed  of  plants  which  flowered  here. 


was  obtained  when  he  presided  at  the  festive 
gathering.  To  that  splendid  charity,  the 
Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund,  he  (personally),  Mrs. 
Veitoh,  other  members  of  his  family  and  his  firm 
have  contributed  in  a  most  generous  manner. 
Here  is  a  little  "personal  note"  showing  Mr. 
Veitoh  in  his  business  capacity  (and  he  is  one  of 
the  keenest  business  men  in  the  horticultural 
world  ;  hence  the  high  standing  of  the  house) 
and  as  a  private  gentleman.  He  was  leaving 
London  for  a  great  provincial  exhibition  and 
gave  the  writer  a  shilling  to  send  off  a  telegram 
to  Mrs.  Veitoh.  The  next  time  I  met  him,  at 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  floral  committee 
meeting  at  South  Kensington,  I  gave  him  the 
change  ;  he  took  it,  as  he  had  a  perfect  right  to 
do.  Some  time  afterwards  I  had  a  domestic 
affliction,  and  here  the  truly  sympathetic  and 
practically  kind  nature  of  the  man  "  came  out"  ; 
he  sent  me  a  cheque  for  £5.  I  knew  a  head- 
gardener,  one  who  had  occupied  a  good  position. 
He  died,  poor  fellow,  of  that  terrible  scourge, 
cancer.  I  went  to  visit  him  at  Cambridge 
shortly  before  his  death.  I  read  there  a  letter 
he  had  received  from  Mr.  Veitoh,  couched  in  a 
truly  Christian  spirit,  fall  of  tenderness  and 
pity.  "Mr.  Harry,"  "full  "of  business  though 
he  was,  yet  found  time  to  pen  this  "  message  of 
hope "  to  my  dear  old   friend.      This  act  will 


A  CLUMP   OF  MECONOPSIS  INTEGRIFOLIA. 


Some  have  borne  as  many  as  eleven  flowers,  and 
it  has  been  a  glorious  sight.  It  appears  to  be 
quite  easy  to  grow  in  a  damp,  sunny  place,  with 
good  drainage  and  sandy  peat  to  root  in.  These 
plants  have  had  no  protection  whatever  through 
the  winter. — W.  A.  Milner,  ToUey  Hall,  ShefHeld. 
Mr.  Harry  J.  Veltch,  V.M.H.-I 
was  greatly  pleased  to  read  in  The  Garden  of 
May  29,  page  262,  the  excellent  proposal  to  have 
Mr.  Veitoh's  portrait  painted  and  hung  per- 
manently in  the  buildings  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society.  It  will  make  a  splendid  and 
truly  appropriate  companion  picture  to  that  of  his 
worthy  father,  the  late  Mr.  James  Veitoh,  the 
founder  of  the  great  Veitohian  establishment  at 
Chelsea,  still  controlled  by  "  Mr.  Harry,"  as  he 
is  affectionately  called  by  those  who  know  him. 
I  first  came  into  contact  with  him  at  the  Great 
International  Horticultural  Exhibition  of  18(36, 
of  which  memorable  event  he  is  now  the  only 
survivor  of  the  executive  committee  which 
brought  it  to  such  a  triumphint  issue.  You 
rightly  refer  to  the  assistance  he  (Mr.  Harry 
Veitoh)  has  individually  rendered — personal,  as 
well  as  financial — to  the  great  gardening  chari- 
ties. Look  at  what  he  has  done,  for  such  a 
length  of  time,  as  hon.  treasurer  of  the 
Gardeners'  Benevolent  Institution  !  At  one  of 
its  annual  dinners  a  "record"  subscription  list 


always  be  cherished  as  a  "green  spot"  in  my 
memory.  Gardeners,  and  all  connected  with 
the  gentle  art,  where  you  can  possibly  do  so,  I 
ask  you  not  to  be  backward  in  coming  forward 
to  support  this  excellent  project  of  perpetuating 
the  honoured  memory  of  a  right  worthy  man, 
a  "  shining  light "  in  the  ancient  and  honourable 
craft  of  gardening. — J.  B. 

Vitality  of  Orchids.  —  Just  to  show 
what  a  lot  of  ill-treatment  Orchids  can  stand  I 
may  mentioa  the  following  facts.  Some  time 
towards  the  end  of  last  year  a  case  of  Orchids 
was  shipped  for  me  from  Rangoon  through  Messrs. 
Thomas  Cook  and  Sons,  who,  for  some  unex- 
plained reason,  shipped  the  box  to  Shanghai 
(instead  of  Hongkong)  to  their  forwarding  agents, 
Messrs.  Schiller  and  Co.,  who  again,  for  some 
unexplained  reason,  kept  the  box,  which  arrived 
in  Shanghai  in  January  and  bore  a  full  address 
in  Foochow,  until  about  a  fortnight  ago — 
that  is,  nearly  four  months.  The  box  arrived 
here  a  few  days  ago,  and,  Btrange  to  relate,  a 
comparatively  small  proportion  only  were  dead 
(such  as  Dendrobiums),  while  others,  in  spite  of 
all  this  maltreatment,  showed  signs  of  life  and  may 
still  survive.  Among  the  latter  are  Cymbidiums, 
CiL^ogynes,  Pleione,  Bulbophyllum  and  even  a 
Cypripedium. — (i.  Siemssen  (German  Consul), 
Foochow,  China. 


300 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[June  19,  1909. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


THE    HAKDY    PRIMULAS. 

(Continued  from  page  2S!K  ) 

PRIMULA  FORTUNE!  is  a  plant  of 
which  the  origin  is  obscure.  It  has 
been  in  cultivation  for  a  long  time, 
but  is  still  rare  owing  to  its  habit 
of  generally  dying  off  after  flowering. 
Seeds  are,  however,  produced  freely 
and  germinate  readily  if  sown  at  once.  It  appears 
to  be  intermediate  between  P.  denticulata  and 
P.  farinosa,  with  the  leaves  of  the  former  and  the 
flowers  of  the  latter.  It  requires  to  be  kept  in  a 
cold  frame  during  the  winter  months,  and  owing 
to  its  early  flowering  is  a  useful  plant  for  the 
alpine  house  when  grown  in  pots. 

P.  frondoaa.  —  A  beautiful  free-flowering 
species  from  Thrace.  It  may  be  described  as  a 
large-leaved  P.  farinosa.  It  is  quite  hardy  in 
this  country,  and  will  grow  well  in  a  half-shady 
place,  planted  in  moist  sandy  peat  and  loam. 
It  is  a  true  perennial,  and  may  be  increased 
readily  by  dividing  the  crowns  as  soon  as  the 
plant  has  done  flowering.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
useful  early  flowering  Primulas  for  growing  in 
pans  for  the  alpine  house,  and  is  one  of  the 
easiest  to  grow. 

P.  glauccicens  (P.  oalycina)  is  found  on  cal- 
careous mountains  near  the  Lake  of  Como,  and  is 
closely  allied  to  P.  speotabilis,  from  which  it  is 
chiefly  distinguished  by  its  bluish  grey  leaves 
having  a  horny  edge,  and  by  the  lobes  of  the 
corolla  being  incised  to  one-third  of  their  depth. 
The  large,  handsome  flowers  of  a  carmine  lilac 
colour  are  produced  in  March  and  April.  It  may 
be  grown  in  fissures  of  rocks  or  old  walls  in 
half-shade,  fixed  in  with  loamy  soil. 

P.  ahuinosa  comes  from  the  Central  and 
Eastern  Alps,  growing  in  granitic  soils. 
Although  found  in  large  colonies  in  a  wild 
state,  it  is  difficult  to  cultivate  successfully 
in  this  country.  Moist  peaty  soil  mixed  with 
sphagnum  suits  it  best.  The  flowers  are  of  a 
brilliant  purple  blue,  borne  on  stems  about 
■1  inches  high.  There  is  also  said  to  be  a  white 
variety. 

P.  yrandis. — A  native  of  the  Caucasus  up  to 
an  elevation  of  10,000  feet.  This  plant  is  con- 
spicuous for  its  large,  handsome  foliage  and 
umbels  of  small,  drooping  yellow  flowers.  The 
flower-stems  are  over  1  foot  high,  but  it  is  said 
to  reach  double  that  height  in  its  native  habitats 
growing  in  wet  soil.  In  this  country  it  grows 
well  in  moist,  loamy  soil  and  flowers  freely.  It 
may  be  increased  by  division,  and  it  also  ripens 
seed. 

P.  hirsuta  (P.  decipiens). — A  granite-loving 
plant  found  on  the  Alps  and  Pyrenees  at  eleva- 
tions of  2,000  feet  to  7,000  feet.  It  forms 
rosettes  of  glandular  pubescent  leaves  that  are 
coarsely  toothed  at  the  edge,  while  the  flowers, 
of  a  purplish  crimson  colour,  are  produced  two 
or  more  on  a  stalk  about  4  inches  long.  It  may 
be  grown  in  cracks  of  rock  or  fissures  between 
large  stones,  or  it  may  be  planted  in  pockets  in 
the  rock  gardens  in  a  mixture  of  sandy  peat  and 
loam  with  plenty  of  broken  stones  mixed  with  it. 
It  is  somewhat  variable  in  colour,  and  perhaps 
the  most  beautiful  and  easily  grown  form  of  it 
is  the  plant  that  is  known  in  gardens  as  P. 
nivalis,  or,  as  it  should  be,  P.  hirsuta  var.  alba. 
This  has  lovely  pure  white  flowers,  and  increases 
freely  in  many  places  planted  in  ordinary 
borders.  Plants  known  in  gardens  under  the 
name  of  P.  ciliata  and  vars.  ooccinea  and 
purpurea  are  forms  of  this  species. 

P.  inlegrifolia  comes  from  the  limestone  Alps 
and  Pyrenees,  and,  like  P.  glutinosa,  is  said  to 
grow  in  crowded  tufts,  forming  quite  turfy 
masses.  It  is  easy  to  grow  in  a  half-shady  place 
planted  in  sandy  loam  and  broken  limestones, 
but  the  lilac  rose  flowers  are  not  produced  very 
freely. 

(To  be  conlinued.J 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

Coming  Fights. — Next  month  will  see  exhibi- 
tors of  Sweet  Peas  facing  the  judges  in  compe- 
titions in  all  quarters  of  the  country,  and  it  is  to 
be  hoped  that,  win  or  lose,  the  peculiarly  excel- 
lent fellowship  that  prevails  in  the  Sweet  Pea 
world  will  be  more  than  maintained.  We  cannot 
all  be  winners  every  time,  and  those  who  cannot 
take  a  beating  in  good  spirit  should  keep  them- 
selves aloof  from  the  fighting  arena  entirely. 
Each  grower  should  teach  himself  to  regard  the 
exhibition  not  simply  as  a  place  where  he  may 
make  money  or  gain  cups,  but  where  he  may 
measure  his  strength  with  others  who  are 
equally  as  enthusiastic  growers  and  exhibitors. 
The  money-grabber  and  pot-hunter  is  a  being, 
scarcely  human  in  his  senses,  who  should  never 
be  known  in  association  with  things  as  clean  and 
as  pure  as  flowers.  When  one  is  beaten,  let  one 
look  at  the  rival  exhibits  coldly  and  dispassion- 
ately, measuring  up  the  merits  and  demerits  of 
one's  own  flowers  from  the  same  standard  as  one 
does  those  arranged  by  one's  opponents,  and  one 
will  soon  come  to  where  in  what  particular 
direction  one's  weakness  and  strength  lie. 
Judges  are  obviously  fallible,  but  they  do  not 
make  many  errors,  whereas  they  are  blamed  for 
scores.  In  the  horticultural  world  we  are  blessed 
with  men  of  absolute  probity,  whose  one  desire  is 
to  do  justice  to  the  exhibits  placed  before  them 
irrespective  of  whence  the  flowers  have  come  or 
whither  they  will  go. 

Coarseness. — Well  as  we  now  are  in  advance 
of  the  principal  shows,  it  will  be  an  opportune 
moment  to  urge  the  avoidance  of  coarseness. 
During  the  past  two  or  three  seasons  Sweet  Peas 
have  been  honoured  with  prizes  which  ought 
certainly  to  have  been  ignored  and  which  were 
as  nearly  ugly  as  it  is  possible  for  such  an  artistic 
and  charming  flower  as  the  Sweet  Pea  to  be. 
Their  only  recommendation  was  size.  The  craze 
for  stems  20  inches  to  24  inches  in  length  has 
resulted  in  the  development  of  blooms  badly  set 
on  the  stem,  of  poor  form,  wretched  colour  and 
nearly  as  flabby  as  the  proverbial  dishcloth.  By 
the  rule  they  probably  measured  something  out 
of  the  common,  but  mere  superficial  area  by  no 
means  makes  a  perfect  Sweet  Pea.  Assuming 
that  it  is  carrying  four  well-placed  flowers  of 
good  size,  substance  and  colour,  the  16-inch  stem 
will  beat  that  20  inches  in  length  nine  times  out 
of  ten,  for  the  latter  almost  always  shows  the 
serious  defect  of  having  the  blooms  set  too  far 
apart  and  commonly  facing  all  ways  instead  of 
almost  directly  towards  London.  There  is,  of 
course,  some  danger  that  the  man  who  persists 
in  exhibiting  the  exquisitely  refined  sprays  that 
are  characteristic  of  the  flower  will  lose  when 
facing  judges  who  are  not  fully  equal  to  the  task ; 
but  one  would  far  rather  see  such  exhibitors 
leave  the  arena  altogether  than  depart  a  hair's- 
breadth  from  their  principles. 

Theee  Great  Gatherings. — In  July  the 
three  great  gatherings  of  the  year  will  be  held. 
On  the  15th  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society  will 
hold  its  provincial  exhibition  in  association  with 
Saltaire,  and,  given  favourable  weather,  the 
display  will  be  splendid,  for  the  northern 
growers  are  nothing  if  not  supremely  enthusi- 
astic ;  on  the  23rd  the  National  Sweet  Pea 
Society  foregathers  at  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster,  when  there 
will  be  royal  battles  for  the  Sutton,  Eckford, 
Breadmore,  Burpee,  E).  W.  King  and  Horace 
Wright  Challenge  Trophies,  not  to  mention  the 
several  other  smaller  cups  and  handsome  money 
prizes  ;  while  at  the  same  hall  on  the  28th  there 
will  be  The  Garden  Show,  so  magnificently 
inaugurated  last  summer.  The  latter  show  last 
year  was  almost  as  good  as  any  Sweet  Pea  show 
in  the  country,  and  there  is  not  the  smallest  room 
for  doubt  that  if  the  present  summer  happens  to 
continue  a  trifle  late  the  Sweet  Peas  on  the 
2Sth  will  rival  in  numbers  and  quality  those 
staged  at  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society's 
show.  Spencer. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 


SMALL     WINTER     CABBAGES     FOR 

AMATEURS. 

GOING  through  a  large  garden  several 
times  during  the  winter,  the 
owner,  an  enthusiastic  amateur, 
was  lamenting  the  want  of  good 
winter  greens,  and  also  the  hardi- 
ness of  the  Brassicas  in  general  J 
but  the  fault  was  with  the  cultivation,  nob 
the  variety.  The  value  of  good,  small,  sweet 
Cabbages  from  December  to  March,  a  period  of 
the  year  when  there  is  a  lack  of  this  vegetable,  is 
well  known.  It  is  somewhat  difficult  to  advise 
on  the  culture  of  winter  vegetables  at  this 
season  of  the  year,  as  the  work  does  not 
appeal  to  the  amateur  just  now,  when  a  host 
of  other  things  need  attention;  but  to  be 
successful  in  gardening  one  must  ever  be  on  the 
alert,  and  a  good  cultivator  must  think  a  long 
time  in  advance. 

To  get  a  good  crop,  winter  Cabbages  must  be 
sown  in  June  and  planted  out  in  July  or  early 
August.  I  have  sown  early  in  .tuly  with 
excellent  results,  but  if  sown  then  the  seedlings 
should  receive  ample  attention.  It  is  well  to 
plant  out  in  a  small  state,  not  allowing  the 
plants  to  become  drawn  in  any  way.  Thin 
sowing  is  important,  as  a  stronger  plant  is 
secured  when  there  is  no  crowding.  I  advise  a 
rich  seed-bed  to  get  rapid  growth  ;  but  this  does 
not  apply  so  forcibly  to  their  permanent 
quarters,  where  I  prefer  land  that  was  well 
manured  for  a  previous  crop ;  indeed,  I  go 
further  and  advise  a  firm  or  hard  soil  in  land 
at  all  light,  so  that  the  plants  may  make  sturdy 
growth,  as  they  will  then  oome  through  our 
changeable  winter  with  very  little  damage,  pro- 
viding the  true  winter  types  are  cultivated. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  an  open  position 
broadcast,  and  in  a  dry  season  moisture  will  be 
necessary  to  assist  germination,  and  much  help 
is  afforded,  when  the  seed-bed  is  small,  by  covering 
the  surface  with  mats,  as  from  the  start  to  the 
finish  there  must  be  no  check.  The  best  winter 
Cabbages  are  compact,  having  few  outer  leaves, 
and  they  are  mostly  very  short-stemmed,  so  that 
when  planting  they  may  be  placed  much  closer 
than  the  summer  Cabbages,  15  inches  between 
the  rows  and  9  inches  to  12  inches  between  the 
plants  in  an  open,  exposed  position  being  a  good 
distance. 

I  now  come  to  varieties,  which  are  not 
numerous,  and  though  I  have  called  them  winter 
Cabbages,  I  should  state  that  the  varieties  noted 
are  equally  useful  for  an  earlier  or  autumn 
supply,  though  not  usually  required  then.  I 
also  explain  that  by  the  term  "winter  Cabbages" 
I  do  not  mean  the  Colewort  Cabbages.  First 
on  the  list  of  true  winter  Cabbages  are  Sutton's 
Little  Gem  and  Favourite.  The  first  named  is 
a  splendid,  small,  compact  variety  of  Drumhead 
shape  and  remarkably  hardy  ;  it  remains  sound 
for  weeks  when  fully  grown,  and  is  just  the  size 
for  table.  I  have  sown  this  variety  in  July  and 
obtained  excellent  winter  crops.  Favourite  is  J 
larger  than  the  Gem,  but  still  by  no  means  a  I 
large  Cabbage.  It  has  a  sobd  heart,  with  few  ' 
outer  leaves,  and  when  fully  grown  remains  a 
long  time  fit  for  use  ;  it  is  a  good  variety  at  other 
seasons  also. 

Probably  the  best  or  most  hardy  of  the  winter 
Cabbages  is  the  less-known  Christmas  Drum- 
head, a  most  valuable  late  variety  that  will 
remain  sound  for  weeks  through  severe  weather 
without  splitting  or  decaying,  and  the  hearts  are 
noted  for  their  good  quality.  Another  excellent 
winter  Cabbage  is  St.  John's  Day,  a  good  hardy 
variety  and  excellent  to  follow  on  after  the 
Coleworts.  I  can  fully  recommend  all  the 
above  varieties,  and  if  some  or  all  of  them 
are  grown  in  the  manner  advised  above,  there 
should  not  be  a  scarcity  of  good  Greens  next 
winter.  G.  Withes. 


JujfE  19,  1909.  J 


THE    GARDEN. 


301 


SIR  JOSSLYN  GORE-BOOTH'S 
LISSADELL    NURSERIES. 

READERS    of    The   Garden    probably 
know  Lissadell  best    as    the  place 
from      which      beautiful      DaflFodil 
blooms  come  to  our  spring   shows. 
^     If,  however,  I  were  to  write  about 
Lissftdell  and  to  confine  my  remarks 
entirely  to  Daffodils,  I  would  only  convey  a  sort 
of    half-truth    impression    of 
whftt  is  going  on  there  and  of 
the    wonderful     energy     and 
prescience  of  its   owner.    Sir 
Jogslyn  Gore-Booth.     This  is 
neither  the  place  nor  the  occa- 
sion to  dwell  upon  the  differ- 
enoe  between  a  good  and  a  bad 
landlord,   or  upon  the  great 
question  of  how  to  get  people 
to  live  in  the  country  ;    but  I 
must  say  this  much ;  If  a  prac- 
tical recognition  of  local  feeling 
and  an  industry -creating  help- 
ing hand  count  for  anything 
in  coming  to  a  decision  on  the 
first  of  these  problems,  you 
will   find  a    man   living    ten 
miles  north-west  of  Sligo  in  a 
large  and    somewhat   severe- 
looking,     grey  -  stone     house 
whose  life  is  an  embodiment 
of  these  principles,  which  are 
in  this  particular  instance  so 
successful  in  their  application 
that,  not  only  do  they  enable 
many  of  his  poorer  neighbours, 
who  otherwise  could  not,   to 
live  in  the  country,  but  they 
are  able   to  keep  in  his  own 
quiet  and  remote    home   the 
man  himself  whose  early  asso- 
ciations   and    upbringing 
pointed  rather  to   his  living 
a  wanderer's  life.   The  Daffodil 
farm,   large  as  it    is,   is  not 
Lissadell.     It  is  but  one   of 
the     ten     departments     into 
which    the    business    of    the 
place    is    divided.      An  enu- 
meration of  these   and  their 
separate  activities  will  enable 
readers  to  realise    how  it  is 
that  £100  a  week  is  paid  away 
in  wages.    (1)  Bulb  farm.     (2) 
Herbaceous  and  alpine  plants. 
(3)  Commercial  gardens — 
Strawberries,    Tomatoes    and 
cut  flowers.    (4)  Farm  depart- 
ment— early  eating  and  seed 
Potatoes.      (5)   Dairy — butter 
by  post.     (6)  Poultry  farm — 
chickens,  ducks,  turkeys  and 
geese.       (7)   Nursery  —  forest 
trees  and  shrubs.      (8)   Saw- 
mills— planking    and    boards, 
flower-boxes,  &o.   (9)  Barytes 
— mines  and  mills.    (10)  School 
of  needlework    (under    Lady 
Gore-Booth). 

Lissadell  is  a  big  thing,  too 
big  for  Sir  Josslyn  alone,  even 
if  he  had  no  outside  interests 
and  were  not  a  member  of  the 
Board  of  Agriculture  and  chair- 
man of  the  directors  of  the  local  railway,  and  had 
no  clothing  manufactory  to  look  after  in  Sligo 
or  some  three  or   four   co-operative   creameries 
on  which  to  keep  a  watchful  eye.    Fortunately,  he 
has  found  m  Mr.  J.  A.  Cooper  a  splendid  right- 
hand  man,  and  with  his  help  and  the  help  of  able 
managers,  who  look  after  their  several  depart- 
ments, he  IS  able  to  successfully  control  his  many 
undertakings.     Last  April  I  paid  a  flying  visit  to 
Lissadell  to  see  the  Daffodils  and  spent  a  most 
•njoyable  day  with  Sir  Josslyn.     He  showed  me 


the  different  fields  where  they  were  grown,  and 
I  was  immensely  impressed  with  their  wonderful 
luxuriance. 

I  have  never  seen  such  flowers  of  Victoria 
anywhere,  and  I  hardly  knew  Katherine  Spurrell 
— it  was  so  good.  There  was  a  large  batch 
of  Golden  Bell,  which  is  one  of  the  freest  of 
Daffodils.  I  also  noticed  Judge  Bird,  which  is  a 
fine  large  bioolor,  with  a  perianth  that  reminds 
one  ot  that  of  Glory  of  Leiden  and  a  stem  that 
will  stand  bad  weather. 


that  were  there.  There  was  only  one  that  was 
not  happy,  and  that  was  obvallaris  (Tenby). 
Why  this  should  be  the  solitary  exception 
it  is  impossible  to  say.  With  King  Alfred 
rampant,  with  Queen  Sophia  suited,  with  Dr. 
Fell  warm  enough,  why  should  not  obvallaris 
thrive  ? 

Springtime  at  the  bulb  farm  in  succeeding 
years  will  be  increasingly  interesting.  The 
results  of  Sir  Josslyn's  experiments  in  hybridising 


NARCISSUS  INCOGNITA. 


The  beautiful  white,  I  are  now  beginning  to  unfold  themselves,  and  one 

can  imagine  how  he  will  go 
each  morning  to  the  beds  to 
see  what  "  the  King  has  sent 
him,"  and  how  his  able 
manager,  Mr.  Joseph  Sangster, 
on  his  flying  visits  home 
between  the  shows  will  hasten 
there  to  look  if  there  is  any- 
thing better  than  Pixie  or 
finer  than  White  Admiral. 
Success  is  bound  to  come 
sooner  or  later.  Sir  Josslyn 
has  kept  careful  records  of  the 
parentages  and  the  seed- 
producing  properties  of  the 
different  crosses,  and  he  is 
using  this  knowledge  with 
what  cannot  help  but  be  excel- 
lent results.  His  is  still  the 
master  mind,  but  he  has  now 
trained  an  intelligent  boy 
to  depoUinate  and  cross,  and 
so  the  seed  crop  is  larger 
each  succeeding  year  ;  but 
as  there  are  many,  many 
acres  of  good  hearted  land  still 
available,  there  is  at  present 
no  need  to  cry  "Halt." 

Apropos  of  the  illustration 
of  the  beautiful  Incognita, 
which  never  seems  to  be 
grown  anywhere  as  it  is  at 
Lissadell  (I  think  I  could 
always  pick  out  a  Lissadell 
exhibit  if  it  had  Incognita  in 
it),  I  may  mention  that  it  is 
an  excellent  variety  for  pots. 
The  way  this  was  found  out 
illustrates  how  Sir  Josslyn 
keeps  his  finger  on  the  pulso 
of  the  Daffodil  world.  The 
forced  bulb  show  of  last  March 
suggested  a  trial  of  the 
behaviour  of  the  various  kinds 
under  glass.  None  did  better 
than  Incognita.  I  hope  I  am 
not  divulging  any  State  secret 
when  I  quote  the  note  made 
upon  this  variety  on  March  15 : 
"  Very  fine  pot  plant,  some  of 
the  flowers  extra  good. " 

There  is  much  more  that  I 
could  say  about  the  bulb  farm 
and  its  concerns  ;  but  I  must 
pass  on  with  Sir  Josslyn  into 
a  neyligee  looking  yard  full  of 
glass  houses  and  frames  and 
tiny  pots  and  seed-pans.  This 
is  where  stocks  of  alpine  and 
herbaceous  plants  are  raised. 
It  was  soon  evident  from  his 
conversation  that  he  took  an 
even  greater  interest  in  these 
than  in  the  Daffodils.  As 
out    of    the   yard 


large-trumpet  Mrs.   Robert  Sydenham  was  just ,  we  went  to  an  old  walled   garden   some  little 
coming  into  flower.  Incognita  was  ready  to  burst  ]  distance  away,  which  more  or  less  marks  the  site 

Its  buds,  the  giant  Sir  Horace  Plunkett  had  been      " 

depoUinated  and  crossed  with  other  good  things, 
and  from  its  faded  look  the  cross  had  probably 
taken.  It  is  a  flower  of  truly  noble  proportion 
and  perfect  form ;  the  trumpet  is  large,  of  a  deep 
golden  yellow  and  beautifully  recurved  at  the 
mouth ;  the  perianth  is  of  a  rich  primrose, 
overlapping  and  quite  flat,  measuring  5  inches 
across.    It  is  needless  to  describe  all  the  varieties 


of  the  old  family  residence  of  a  century  ago. 
The  upper  part  of  the  garden  was  on  a  slope, 
and  was  broken  by  a  wall  which  had  become 
the  home  of  a  number  of  choice  plants.  The 
illustration  on  page  302  shows  a  portion  of  it 
in  its  summer  dress,  and  also,  towards  the  top  of 
the  picture,  the  boundary  wall  and  part  of  the  well- 
stocked  herbaceous  border  underneath  it.  The 
lower  part  of  this  garden  was  really  one  large 


:302 


THE    GAEDEN. 


iJvNE  19,  1909. 


rookery,  or,  to  be  more  accurate,  soon  will  be. 
It  is  at  present  in  the  making,  but  when  it  is 
finished  and  the  plants  get  established  it  will  be 
a  very  great  feature  ;  and  because  it  will  contain 
so  many  rare  and  difBeult  plants  it  has  every 
prospect  of  becoming  a  veritable  Mecca  to  which 
lovers  of  rock  gardens  will  resort  to  see  things 
growing  in  luxuriance  which  they  in  less- 
favoured  parts  are  unable  to  manage.  Sir 
Josslyn  takes  the  greatest  interest  in  the  work, 
and,  as  he  said  to  me,  he  is  busy  ransacking  all 
likely  nurseries  and  gardens  at  home  and  abroad 
for  plant  tresteures  to  add  to 
the  already  large  collection  that 
he  possesses. 

Among  the  many  beautiful 
shrubs  which  flourish  here  are 
Abutilon  Vitifolium,  Buddleia 
variabilis  veitehiana.  Calceolaria 
violaoea  and  Hedysarum  multi- 
jugxim,  while  among  the  her- 
baceous and  alpine  plants  we 
find  Antirrhinum  glutinosum, 
Campanulas  and  Primulas  in 
variety,  Ramondia  pyrenaica, 
Astilbe  Davidii,  Inoarvillea 
Delavayi,  Meconopsis  aurantiaca 
fl.-pl. ,  Asters  and  Phloxes  in 
endless  variety,  Montbretias 
new  and  old,  Romneya  Coulteri 
and  many  others.  The  catalogue 
of  this  department  is  a  fairly 
comprehensive  one  when  it  is 
remembered  that  all  the  plants 
listed  have  been  grown  at 
Lissadell — very  many,  indeed, 
from  home -sa  red  seed.  I  wish 
I  could  do  justice  to  all  the 
rarities  that  are  being  grown  in 
this  department ;  the  mild, 
equable  climate,  combined  with 
a  proper  treatment  of  the  indi- 
vidual plants,  make  many  things 
possible  here  which  are  impos- 
sible elsewhere,  and  bring  well 
within  the  range  of  ' '  practical 
politics"  the  owner's  hope  and 
aim,  viz.,  "That  there  will  be 
many  things  which  you  will 
have  to  come  to  Lissadell 
for.''  Joseph  Jacob. 


Clematises,  and  do  not  appear  to  be  troubled  with 
the  disease  to  which  so  many  garden  varieties 
fall  a  prey.  At  Kew  they  are  grown  in  a  bed  in 
the  open  ground, and  are  allowed  to  trail  naturally 
over  rough  Oak  branches. 

The  Chinese  C.  montana  is  a  well-known 
climber  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  its  numerous 
white,  star-like  blossoms  being  conspicuous  on 
many  a  house  and  fence ;  but  the  variety  rubens, 
which  was  introduced  a  few  years  ago,  is  not,  so 
far.  very  well  known.  It  is  a  duplicate  of  the 
type  in  growth,  but  the  branches  are  red  and  the 


COLOURED 
PLATE. 

PLATE     1S76. 


BAKE  AND  BEAUTIFUL 
CLEMATISES. 

THE     various     garden 
varieties  of  Clematis 
which    comprise   the 
several  groups  known 
under    the    titles    of 
lanuginosa,   Jack- 
manii,  patens,  florida  and  Viti- 
oella    are     comparatively    well 
known,  and  some  of  them  are 
grown  extensively  in  many  parts 
of     the     country.       Beautiful, 
however,  as  these  sorts  are,  it 
is  not  to  them  that  attention  is 
particularly    directed    at    this 
moment,  but  to  other  sorts,  which  include  species 
and  varieties  that  are  equally  ornamental  and,  in 
some  instances,  more   easily  grown,  but  which 
are  not  so  widely  known  as  they  ought  to  be. 
The  subjects  of  the  coloured  plate,  for  instance 
(C.  Durandii  and  its  variety  pallida),  though  not 
really  new,  do  not  appear  to  be  in  general  culti- 
vation, or,  at  any  rate,  generally  popular,  in  this 
country,  though  they  are  extremely  free-flowering 
and  of  robust  habit.     They  thrive  under  condi- 
tions   favourable    to    the     majority    of    garden 


A   WALL  GARDEN   AT   USSADELL.      (See  page  S(lt.) 

flowers  are  deeply  stained  with  the  same  colour. 
It  is  without  doubt  one  of  the  most  important 
introductions  of  modern  times,  and  has  proved  to 
be  perfectly  hardy ;  in  fact,  it  is  stated  to  succeed 
better  in  English  gardens  than  it  does  in  China. 
A  good-sized  mass  growing  over  rough  posts  was, 
during  Ma3',  one  of  the  most  magnificent  sights 
at  Kew,  the  whole  specimen  being  perfectly 
covered  with  pretty  reddish  flowers,  which  were 
conspicuous  from  a  long  distance.  The  Kew 
examples  are   growing   in   loamy  soil  to  which 


lime  has  been  added,  and  they  were  propagated 
from  cuttings.  Another  charming  Clematis  that 
is  far  too  rarely  met  with  is  C.  alpina,  or,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  Atragene  alpina.  This  is  found 
in  the  alpine  limestone  districts  of  North  Europe, 
and  is  conspicuous  by  reason  of  its  pretty  mauve 
flowers,  which  appear  in  April.  It  thrives 
equally  well  on  rough  posts  or  on  a  large  tree  butt, 
and  attains  a  height  of  S  feet  to  10  feet.  Varieties 
with  white  and  red  flowers  are  known. 

G.  07-ienlalh  tawjutica  is  the  best  yellow- 
flowered  Clematis  known.  The  type,  C. 
orientalis,  is  pretty  and  mode- 
rately well  known,  but  it  is 
inconspicuous  beside  the  variety, 
the  flowers  of  which  are  many 
times  larger  and  richer  in  colour, 
while  the  curious  long-pointed 
sepals  add  to  their  attractive 
appearance.  It  is  very  un- 
common, but  will  probably  be 
met  with  more  frequently  in 
the  near  future,  for  it  comes 
true  from  seeds.  An  entirely 
different  plant  from  those 
previously  mentioned  is  C. 
Flammula  rubro  -  marginata. 
The  common  C.  Flammula  is 
well  known  by  reason  of  its 
billowy  masses  of  fragrant 
white  flowers,  which  appear 
during  late  summer,  but  the 
variety  is  not  often  met  with 
in  the  form  of  a  fine  speci- 
men. It  has  the  aspect  of 
the  type  except  in  the  colour 
of  the  flowers,  which  are 
heavily  margined  with  red. 
Planted  at  the  foot  of  a 
group  of  rough  Oak  branches 
or  against  the  rough  posts 
of  a  pergola,  it  arranges  its 
branches  in  a  free  and  easy  way 
and  blossoms  profusely. 

C.  rampanijlora,  from  Portu- 
gal, is  a  strong-growing  species 
suitable  for  covering  a  rough 
fence,  old  tree  or  arrangement 
of  posts  in  the  wilder  parts  of 
the  garden.  It  ascends  to  a 
height  of  18  feet  to  20  feet 
and  bears  a  profusion  of  light 
mauve  flowers,  which  are 
scarcely  an  inch  across,  during 
the  summer. 

Much  has  been  done  during 
recent   years  to    improve    the 
tubular  -  flowered   C.    heraelese- 
folia.      This    is    distinct    from 
other  Clematises  by  reason  of 
its    semi-shrubby    habit,    large 
leaves  and  tiny  tubular   bluish 
flowers.     The  type  is  not  par- 
ticularly ornamental,  but  many 
of     the     newer    hybrids    and 
varieties  are  very  showy,  and, 
as  they   flower  throughout  the 
autumn,    they    have    much    to 
commend  them.      The    variety 
davidiana  is   one  of    the   best 
known,    but   this    is    unimpor- 
tant     when      compared     with 
Lavellei    and     others    of     M. 
Lemoine's  raising.    Some  atten- 
tion has  been  directed  of  late 
years  to 
G.  ifrala. — This  is  a  Himalayan  shrub  of  strong 
growth  and    very    free    flowering.      It    blooms 
during  late  August  and  September,  the  flowers 
being  white,  tinged  on  the  outside  with  violet. 
It  is  excellent  for  naturalising  or  for  growing 
over  small  trees,  fences,  groups  of  rough  stakes, 
etc.     In   the  event  of    good  sturdy  sorts  being 
required,  any  of  those  mentioned  will  be  found 
suitable,    while    all    flower    profusely    and    are 
worthy  of  inclusion  in  all  gardens  where  unusual 
flowering  plants  are  appreciated.  W.  D. 


June  19,  1»09.] 


THE    GAl^DEN. 


30r 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN 


AKTIFICIAL  MANUKES  FOR  KOSES. 
[/»  reply  to  a  Correspondent.} 

I  HAVE  much  pleasure  in  giving  aome 
recipes  for  the  making  of  liquid  manures 
from  artificial  productions,  knowing  full 
well  the  difficulty  town  amateurs  experi- 
ence in  obtaining  natural  manures.  It  is 
agreed  by  most  of  our  leading  rosarians 
that  Roses  can  be  fed  better  by  applying  manure 
in  liquid  form  than  in  a  raw  state  to  the  soil,  but 
to  cultivate  this  flower  most  successfully  it  needs 
a  combination  of  the  two  methods.  These  few 
notes  will  not,  of  course,  deal  with  applying  raw 
manure  to  the  soil,  but  there  are  many  excellent 
preparations  on  the  market,  such  as  Native 
Guano,  Thomson's  Manure,  &o. ,  that  have  a 
world-wide  popularity,  which  may  be  applied  now 
in  the  dry  state.  Should  the  weather  remain 
dry,  give  a  copious  watering  once  every  ten 
days.  This  will  carry  the  food  down  to  the 
roots. 

An  ideal  stimulant  for  Roses  is  phosphate  of 
potash  and  nitrate  of  potash,  half  an  ounce  of 
each  to  one  gallon  of  water,  applied 
about  once  in  ten  days,  but  dis- 
continued when  the  buds  begin  to 
show  colour.  This  is  a  good 
stimulant,  but  be  careful  it  does 
not  touch  the  foliage.  Nitrate  of 
soda  is  a  powerful  stimulant  and 
very  quick  acting.  Use  half  an 
ounce  to  two  gallons  of  water. 
This  would  be  most  effectual  just 
to  finish  off  the  buds,  applying  when 
they  are  about  one- third  grown. 
Dried  blood  I  have  found  an  excel- 
lent preparation  when  applied  at 
the  rate  of  loz.  to  a  square  yard, 
repeated  about  once  a  fortnight 
and  watered  in  if  no  rain  falls. 
Fish  guano,  a  teaspoonful  per  plant 
once  in  fourteen  days  and  watered 
in,  is  good  ;  old-established  plants 
could  have  double  the  quantity. 

Sulphate  of  ammonia  and  nitrate 
of  soda,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
each  to  two  gallons  of  water.  Give 
this  quantity  to  each  tree  or  bush 
once  in  ten  days.  Newly  planted 
Roses  must  not  be  watered  with 
this,  and  I  only  advise  it  for  those 
growing  in  a  rather  light  soil. 
Superphosphate  of  lime,  IJoz.  to  a 
gallon  of  water,  applied  twice  a 
week.  Guano,  loz.  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  applied  twice  a  week  until 
the  flower-buds  show  colour.  These  last  two 
recipes  could  be  given  alternately  with  good 
results.  Clay's  Fertilizer  mixed  with  soil  and 
scattered  over  the  beds  and  watered  in  if 
the  weather  is  dry  is  very  helpful.  Finally, 
I  advise  a  dressing  of  Tonk's  manure, 
although  rather  late  in  the  season  to  apply  it ; 
but  in  your  locality  I  believe  Roses  are  much 
later  than  with  us  near  London.  Amateurs 
would  find  it  most  economical  to  combine  together 
and  order  this  preparation  from  a  good  reliable 
house.  It  is  compounded  as  follows  :  Super- 
phosphate of  lime,  twelve  parts ;  nitrate  of 
potash,  ten  parts  ;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  two 
parts  ;  sulphate  of  iron,  one  part ;  and  sulphate 
of  lime,  eight  parts.  Apply  in  February  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  to  the  square  yard  and  a  lighter 
dressing  in  May  or  June  if  much  rain  has  fallen 
in  the  spring.  I  think,  where  artificial  manures 
must  ot  necessity  be  resorted  to,  that  it  would 
be  advisable  to  transplant  the  Roses  at  intervals 
of,  say,  three  years,  giving  them  some  new  soil 
about  their  roots,  and,  of  course,  well  digging 
the  staple  soil.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood 
that  only  one  of  the  above-mentioned  manures 
should  be  applied  at  once,  except  where  two  or 
more  are  given  in  conjunction.  P. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


HINTS    ON    VINE    CULTURE. 
Thinning   the    Bunches    and    Berries. 

THIS  is  a  very  interesting  work  and  one 
of  the  items  in  the  cultivation  of 
Grapes  that  amateurs  dearly  love 
to  attend  to.  Nearly  every  inex- 
perienced cultivator  makes  the 
mistake  of  leaving  on  too  many 
bunches,  and  also  too  many  berries  in  the  latter. 
Vines  which  are  overcropped  do  not  perfect  the 
bunches  and  berries  during  the  current  year,  and 
owing  to  the  big  strain  put  upon  them  they  fail 
to  bear  satisfactory  crops  afterwards  for  several 
years  to  come.  There  are  two  features  by  which 
the  cultivator  can  tell  whether  the  Vines  are 
overloaded  or  not,  namely,  lack  of  finish  of  the 
berries  and  the  stopping  of  the  growth  of  the 
Vines.  Lack  of  finish  of  the  berries  means 
deficient  colour,  black  varieties  being  reddish 
black  instead  of  that  grand  blue-black  which  is 
so  desirable.  The  stopping  of  the  growth  of 
the  Vines  is  shown  by  the  diminishing  produc- 
tion of  sub-lateral  shoots  throughout  the  early 


be  thinned  out  so  severely  as  round -berried  sorts 
possessing  short  footstalks,  of  which  Gros  Colman 
may  be  cited  as  a  good  example.  Having  noted 
these  details,  the  cultivator  will  have  a  good  idea 
as  to  how  to  do 

The  Thinninu  Out  of  the  Berries. 

A  very  steady  hand  is  essential,  otherwise 
many  good  berries  may  be  cut  off  unintention- 
ally and  the  remainder  of  the  berries  badly 
rubbed.  More  berries  may  be  left  on  the  top 
portion  of  the  bunch  than  the  bottom  or  centre. 
Late-ripening  varieties  must  always  have  more 
berries  removed  from  the  centre  of  the  bunch 
than  early-ripening  ones,  on  account  of  the 
difficulty  of  keeping  large  bunches  with  closely 
packed  herries  through  the  autumn  and  early 
pirt  of  the  winter. 

The  operator  will  require  a  pair  of  Grape 
scissors,  sharp  and  quite  clem,  and  a  piece  of  soft 
raifia  or  a  smooth,  forked  stick,  with  which  the 
berries  must  be  moved  gently  to  one  side  or  the 
shoulders  held  up  firmly  while  surplus  berries 
are  being  cut  out  Commenoa  at  the  bottom  ot 
the  bunch  and  work  upwards  to  the  shoulders, 
which  must  be  tied  up  with  soft  strands  of  raffia 
if  they  are  large      The   bunches   must  not  be 


A  remarkable   wistaria   on   MR.    CHARLES  TURNER'S   HOUSE  AND   OFFICES   AT  SLOUGH. 


part  of  the  summer  when  the  Vines  are  beginning 
to  feel  the  strain  of  bearing  so  many  bumties. 

A  Vine  which  is  not  overcropped  will  con- 
tinue to  produce  these  sub-laterals,  which  must, 
however,  be  regularly  removed.  The  surplus 
bunches  must  be  cut  off  directly  it  can  be 
seen  which  are  the  best  placed  and  best  shaped, 
and  containing  the  fullest  complement  of  well- 
stoned  berries.  An  established  Vine  will  mature 
1  Jib.  per  foot  run  of  rod  ;  but  the  amateur  would 
be  acting  wisely  if  he  confined  the  crop  to  lib. 
per  foot  run  of  rod,  because  such  Vines,  if 
given  fair  treatment,  would  hear  this  weight 
year  after  year  for  a  long  period.  The  berries 
must  be  thinned  out  as  soon  as  it  can  be  clearly 
seen  which  contain  stones  and  which  do  not. 

Black  Hamburghs  may  be  thinned  at  an  earlier 
stage  than  any  others  ;  Madresfield  Court  next ; 
Mu.icat  of  Alexandria,  Alicante  and  Alnwick 
Seedling  last,  because  there  are  often  many 
stoneless  berries  in  the  bunches  of  the  three  last- 
named  varieties.  Alnwick  Seedling  is  a  variety 
that  I  would  not  recommend  amateurs  to  grow 
unless  a  collection  of  varieties  is  desired. 

Berries  with  long  footstalks,  such  as  Black  Ham- 
burgh, and  those  oval  in  shape,  such  as  Madres- 
field  Court  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  need  not 


twisted,  rubbed,  nor  handled  in  any  way  ;  then 
the  beautiful  bloom  on  the  berries,  the  natural 
protection  against  decay,  will  be  preserved.  All 
small,  seedless  berries  must  be  first  cut  out,  and 
then  others  in  order  to  leave  suffioient  space  for 
all  to  fully  develop  without  being  unduly 
crowded,  so  thit  when  placed  on  the  dessert- 
dish  or  the  show-board  the  bunch  will  retain  its 
shape  and  not  fall  apart  exposing  the  centre  and 
a  number  of  footstalks  of  the  berries.  Directly  the 
thinning  is  finished  give  the  border  a  thorough 
watering  with  tepid  liquid  manure.  G.  G. 


A      FAMOUS      WISTARIA. 

The  illustration  represents  one  of  the  most 
famous  Wistarias  in  England,  the  remarkable 
tree  running  over  the  house  and  offices  of  Mr. 
Charles  Turner  at  Slough.  Mr.  Arthur  Turner 
writes  :  "  I  cannot  exactly  say  what  the  age  of 
our  Wistaria  is,  but  I  have  always  understood 
it  was  one  of  the  first  received  from  China ;  it 
would,  therefore,  be  nearly  100  years  old.  The 
house  on,  which  it  was  originally  planted  was 
destroyed  by  fire,  but  the  Wistaria  was  saved. 
A  very  fine  Magnolia  was  also  on  the  house,  but 
that,  however,  was  lost." 


304 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[June  19,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.  —Where  the 
amateur  intends  exhibiting  Roses, 
his  or  her  success  will  be  consider- 
ably enhanced  by  a  judicious  thinning 
of  the  rapidly  swelling  flower-buds. 
It  frequently  happens  that  these  are 
produced  in  clusters  of  three  or  more,  and 
usually  the  centre  or  uppermost  one  is  the  best 
for  retaining.  It  must,  however,  be  carefully 
examined,  and  if  damaged  in  any  way  the  most 
promising  of  the  lower  ones  selected,  carefully 
removing  all  the  others  with  a  pointed  pair  of 
scissors.  Should  the  weather  now  prove  dry, 
special  attention  must  be  given  to  newly  planted 
bedding  plants,  as  any  dryness  at  their  roots 
will  be  badly  felt  just  at  the  time  when  new 
roots  are  being  formed.  It  is,  therefore,  most 
essential  that  water  be  given  to  these  plants  at 
least  until    they    are    well    established.       The 


I.— CELEKY  SEEDLINGS  WHEN  FIRST  L-RICKED  OFF. 

present  is  a  good  time  to  sow  seeds  of  various 
perennials,  such  as  Delphiniums,  Aquilegias  and 
many  others.  If  sown  carefully  in  shallow 
drills  in  the  open  and  regularly  watered  until 
the  seedlings  are  1  inch  or  rather  more  high,  a 
number  of  useful  plants  can  be  easily  raised. 
Of  course,  it  is  safer  to  sow  in  pans  or  boxes  in  a 
frame,  and  where  such  is  available  this  course 
is  recommended,  but  the  seedlings  must  be 
pricked  off  early  and  grown  along  quite  hardily, 
otherwise  they  will  succumb  during  the  dark, 
cold  days  of  winter. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Celery  for  a  main  crop 
should  be  planted  at  once,  the  trenches  having 
been  prepared  some  time  ago,  as  advised  on  this 
page.  Where  a  single  row  is  to  be  grown  in 
each  trench,  10  inches  or  1  foot  apart,  according 
to  the  variety,  is  a  good  distance  to  observe. 
For  a  double  row  allow  3  inches  more  and  place 
the  plants  so  that  they  alternate  in  each  row. 
They  must  be  well  and  regularly  watered  until 
established,  and  should  the  weather  be  very 
sunny,  shading  in  the  form  of  tiffany,  light  mats 


THK    CULTURE    OF    CELERY. 

or  even  leafy  boughs  should  be  afforded.  Where 
it  is  not  intended  to  insert  stakes  or  other 
supports  for  Scarlet  Runner  Beans,  the  tops 
must  be  frequently  pinched  out  so  as  to  keep 
the  plants  dwarf  and  compact.  This  system  is 
almost  universal  with  market  growers,  but  is 
not  advised  for  gardens,  as  the  pods  lose  in 
Savour  when  they  come  into  contact  with  the 
soil.  Keep  all  crops  well  hoed,  greens  of  all 
kinds  deriving  great  benefit  from  this  loosening 
of  the  soil.  Take  advantage  of  a  rainy  day 
to  apply  artificial  manures  where  these  are 
required. 

Fruit  Garden. — This  is  the  season  for  summer 
pruning,  and  where  this  work  is  properly  carried 
out  much  good  can  be  done.  It  is,  however, 
not  at  all  well  understood.  All  cordon  trees. 
Pears,  Plums,  Cherries,  .Goossberries,  Currants 
and,  in  a  lesser  degree.  Apples,  derive  great 
benefit  from  properly  performed  summer  pruning 
or  pinching.  The  operator  must  remember 
which  growths  will  need  partial  or  entire 
removal  at  the  summer  pruning  ;  then  the  work 
is  comparatively  simple.  Generally  speaking,  all 
lateral  growths  that  would  be  spurred  back  at 
the  winter  pruning  may  be  shortened  now  to 
within  four  buds  of  their  bases,  and  should  they 
break  again  later  in  the  summer,  these  secondary 
growths  must  be  removed  at  their  point  of 
origination.  Then  there  will  be  a  certain 
number  of  shoots  that  are  obviously  not  wanted 
at  all,  and  these  should  be  completely  removed. 
Generally  speaking,  all  leading  shoots  should  be 
left  untouched  at  this  season.  At  the  winter 
pruning  the  laterals  that  are  pinched  back  to 
four  buds  now  will  be  cut  back  so  that  only  two 
remain.  The  results  of  summer  pruning  are 
better  ripened  wood  and  finer  and  more  highly 
coloured  fruits. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames.  —  Sow  seeds  of 
Calceolarias  for  flowering  next  spring.  Shallow 
puns  or  boxes  are  best,  and  these  must  be 
thoroughly  drained,  using  finely  sifted  soil 
composed  of  two  parts  good  loam,  one  part 
thoroughly  rotted  leaf-soil  and  one  part  sand. 
Make  this  moderately  firm  and  level.  Before 
sowing  the  seeds  mix  them  with  some  fine  dry 
sand,  aa  by  this  means  a  more  even  distribution 
will  be  secured.  After  sowing,  a  light  sprinkling 
with  sand  will  be  all  the  covering  required. 
Water  very  carefully  and  then  cover  with  a 
sheet  of  brown  paper  or  glass  and  stand  in  a 
cool  corner  of  the  greenhouse.  When  up,  the 
seedlings  must  be  grown  on  under  quite  cool 
conditions,  a  shfided  frame  suiting  them  very 
well.  Spirfeas  that  have  been  flowered  in  pots 
and  subsequently  hardened  by  a  fortnight's 
sojourn  in  the  cold  frame  should  now  be  planted 
out  in  a  cool,  moist  part  of  the  garden,  where 
they  will  do  much  better  than  if  left  in  their 
pots  ;  they  should  be  ready  for  forcing  again  the 
year  after  next.  H. 

CELERY    CULTURE    FOR    BE(  DINNERS. 

Of  the  large  number  of  vegetables  in  general 
cultivation,  the  Celery  is,  without  doubt,  one  of 
the  most  popular.  It  may  not  be  generally 
known  that  Celery  is  a  moisture-loving  subject, 
and  any  soil  of  this  character,  so  long  as  it  is 
not  of  a  heavy  clayey  nature,  may  be  regarded 
as  eminently  suitable  for  the  purpose.  We 
have  to  remember  that  in  blanching  this  subject 
it  is  customary  and  necessary  to  place  the  soil 
round  about  the  plants  when  they  have  attained 
certain  dimensions,  and  soil  of  too  heavy  and 
retentive  a  character  would  adhere  aod  cause 
the  leaf -stalks  to  rot. 


We  will  now  consider  the  question  of  raising 
plants  from  seed,  this  being  the  only  method  of 
providing  the  necessary  supply  of  plants  each 
year.  The  seed  is  usually  sown  in  the  spring, 
either  March  or  April,  where  a  supply  of  good, 
well-blanched  specimens  are  required  early  in 
the  autumn.  When  the  seeds  are  sown  early  in 
March,  the  beginner  may  rest  assured  that  he 
will,  under  ordinary  conditions,  have  good 
"sticks"  ready  for  use  quite  early  in  the 
autumn.  For  early  supplies  the  seed  should 
be  sown  in  shallow  boxes,  using  any  light  and 
good  compost  for  the  purpose.  Sow  the  seeds 
thinly,  as  this  has  advantages  when  the  resulting 
seedlings  have  to  be  pricked  off.  If  the  boxes 
are  subsequently  placed  in  a  temperature  of 
anything  between  55"  and  65°,  the  seeds  will 
germinate  quickly  and  their  after-treatment  in  a 
cooler  temperature  be  of  the  simplest  character. 
For  winter  crops  I  prefer  to  make  a  sowing 
outdoors  in  well-prepared  soil,  but  in  a  warm, 
sunny  aspect.  Those  readers  who  have  no  glass 
house  may  raise  their  early  batch  of  plants  on  a 
hotbed,  where  their  progress  will  be  rapid  and 
their  needs  quite  easily  supplied. 

Seedlings  raised  in  heat  should  be  pricked  off 
into  larger  boxes,  observing  a  space  between 
them  of  I  inch  or  2  inches,  more  or  less,  accord- 
ing to  circumstances,  using  any  good  soil  that 
may  be  available.  Immediately  afterwards  they 
should  be  watered  in  with  clear  water  from  a 
fine-rosed  can,  and  the  boxes  then  returned  to 
the  glass  house  or  hot-bed.  As  soon  as 
established,  and  this  will  be  but  a  few  days,  the 
plants  must  be  gradually  hardened  off  by 
inuring  them  to  more  airy  and  less  warm  con- 
ditions of  the  temperature.  A  cold  frame  should 
be  first  used,  and  this  kept  rather  close  for  a 
few  days.  Subsequently  admit  air,  gradually 
at  first,  increasing  the  quantity  from  time  to 
time  until  quite  established.  At  this  period  the 
sturdy  little  plants  may  be  either  pricked  off 
(transplanted)  in  a  border  with  a  warm  aspect  or 
else  the  cold  frame  or  any  other  rough  protec- 
tion may  be  utilised  for  the  same  purpose.  lu 
cold  and  bleak  situations  the  use  of  a  cold  frame 
at  such  a  period  is  distinctly  advantageous. 
The  soil  in  the  open  border  or  in  the  cold  frame 
should  be  carefully  prepared  and  a  layer  of  good, 
rich,  friable  soil  placed  on  the  surface,  into 
which  the  seedlings  may  be  planted.  Allow  a 
space  between  the  plants  of  from  4  inches  to 
6  inches,  as  this  will  enable  the  grower  to  lift 
each  plant  at  the  time  of  planting  in  its 
permanent  quarter  with  a  good  ball  of  soil  and 
roots,  which  is  no  mean  advantage.  When  these 
seedlings  are  planted  as  I  suggested  above, 
they  should  be  as  represented  in  Fig.  1.  This 
is  the  corner  of  a  cold  frame  filled  with  seedling 
Celery  plants  pricked  off  in  the  manner  I  have 
just  described.  The  frame-light  should  cover 
the  young  plants  for  a  time  and  air  be  admitted 
more  or  less  freely  as  the  weather  for  the  time 
being  may  determine.  On  very  warm  days  it 
would  be  fatal  to  leave  the  frame-light  on,  as 
growth  would  quickly  become  weak  and 
attenuated,  and  the  prospects  of  a  successful 
future  be  considerably  lessened  thereby.  In  a 
few  days,  in  ordinary  cirpumstances,  the  frame- 
lights  may  be  removed,  and  in  the  course  of  ten 
days  to  a  fortnight  the  plants  should  attain 
proportions  as  represented  in  Fig.  2.  Note  how 
the  plants  have  filled  out  and  how  promising  is 
their  character.  A  further  ten  days,  more  or 
less,  should  see  the  plants  in  an  even  better 
condition. 

Water  is  a  very  important  factor  in  successful 
culture,  and  this  fact  should  be  appreciated  and 
acted  upon  as  occasion  demands.  Water  will  be 
needed  pretty  frequently  while  the  young  plants 


June  19,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN 


306 


sticks  will  scarcely  be  visible 
and  the  shoots  of  tie  plants 
will  fill  up  the  centre  of  each 
clump.  Single-stemmed  plants 
only  require  one  stake  each, 
and  it  must  be  fixed  behind  the 
stem  so  that  the  latter  will 
hide  it  as  much  as  possible.  All 
ligatures  must  be  made  secure, 
but  not  so  tight  as  to  damage 
the  bark. 


-THE  SAME   PLANT3  A  FEW  WEEKS   LATER  WHEN  THEY 
BEING  HARDENED  FOR   PLANTING   onTDOORS. 


are  growing  so  vigorously.  Anticipating  the 
period  for  planting  outdoors  in  their  permanent 
quarters  these  well-established  Celery  plants, 
trenches  should  be  got  ready  iu  good  time,  so 
that  delay  shall  not  take  place  when  the  plants 
are  ready  to  appreciate  the  shift.  Trenches 
should  be  arranged  either  3  feet  or  4  feet  apart. 
In  small  gardens  the  smaller  space  should  be 
allowed  and  the  larger  space  where  garden  room 
is  not  restricted.  Make  the  trenches  15  inches 
to  18  inches  wide  and  about  1  foot  deep.  The 
width  of  the  trenches  must  vary  according  to 
the  garden  space  available.  Previous  to  placing 
6  inches  of  good,  lasting,  though  well-decayed 
manure  in  the  trench,  fork  over  the  soil  in  the 
bottom  and  subsequently  place  a  layer  of  about 
3  inches  of  good  soil  over  the  manure  as  surface 
soil.  This  latter  should  be  levelled  and  raked 
over  previous  to  planting. 

I  prefer  to  plant  in  moist  weather,  and  if 
possible  prior  to  a  fall  of  rain.  In  the  event  of 
the  weather  being  hot  and  dry  continuously  and 
planting  must  be  done,  give  the  soil  in  the 
trenches  a  good  watering  some  hours  before  the 
planting  and  treat  the  plants  in  a  similar 
liberal  fashion.  Observe  the  greatest  care  when 
lifting  the  plants,  so  that  as  much  soil  and  roots 
as  possible  may  be  retained.  Nine  inches  apart 
is  a  good  rule  to  observe,  although  there  are 
growers  who  allow  only  6  inches  between  the 
plants.  Take  out  a  good  hole  with  the  trowel, 
plant  firmly  and  water  in  each  batch  of  plants  as 
they  are  completed,  and  the  results  will  be  quite 
satisfactory.  Fig.  3  aptly  portrays  a  single  trench 
planted  with  Celery  9  inches  apart.      D.  B.  C. 


HOW  TO  STAKE  BORDER  PLANTS. 

The  good  or  bad  appearance  of  many  tall- 
growing  border  plants  depends,  to  a  great  extent, 
upon  the  way  in  which  the  necessary  stakes  are 
used  for  their  support.  An  experienced  culti- 
vator will  probably  not  use  half  as  many  stakes 
as  one  who  entirely  lacks  experience,  and  yet 
succeed  in  making  the  plants  look  neat  and 
natural.  These  are  the  two  chief  points  to  ai  m 
at,  namely,  sufficient  support  while  retaining 
the  natural  habit  of  the  plant  dealt  with.  The 
novice  very  often  contents  himself  with  one 
stake  for  each  clump  of  plants.  A  very  good 
effect  may  be  produced  if  much  time  is  spent 
upon  details  such  as  those  of  tying  out  individual 
shoots  ;  but  the  general  plan  is  to  tie  all  shoots 
in  a  bundle  to  the  single  stake,  which  is  wrong. 
Most  clumps  of  plants  growing  in  the  herbaceous 
border  may  be  properly  supported  with  three 
stakes.  They  must,  as  a  rule,  be  placed  to  form 
a  triangle  with  their  tops  pointing  outwards.  If 
fixed  just  inside  the  outer  row  of  plants,   the 


BORDER  CHRYSANTHE- 
MUMS. 
The  earliest  varieties  will  soon 
be  showing  their  flower-buds, 
and  unless  the  plants  are 
judiciously  fed  they  will  be 
very  small,  except  those  speci- 
mens growing  in  a  naturally 
deep,  well-enriched  soil.  Both 
individual  plants  and  rows  of 
them  growing  close  together 
must  be  freely  watered  and 
fed.  Immediately  after  a 
heavy  shower  of  rain  a  good 
soaking  of  liquid  manure  will 
do  an  immense  amount  of  good ;  and  also  a 
watering  with  soot-water  once  a  week  will 
deepen  the  green  colour  of  the  leaves.  All 
artificial  manures  must  be  given  after  the  buds 
have  formed.  Greeix  and  black  aphides  must  be 
cleared  off  the  young  shoots,  else  the  latter  will 
be  sadly  crippled  and  rendered  useless  for  bearing 
flowers.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Lawns. — Even  in  a  season  when  showers  are 
frequent  during  the  months  of  April  and  May, 
lawns  begin  to  show  signs  of  failing  in  June  when 
not  shaded  a  little  by  trees  growing  near  them, 
and  we  may  expect  to  see  many  brown  patches 
on  lawns,  especially  on  those  where  the  turf  is 
thin  and  does  not  rest  on  a  good  depth  of  rich 
loam.  Last  year,  in  the  month  of  July,  I 
inspected  some  gardens  almost  in  the  centre  of  a 
very  large  manufacturing  town,  or  rather  city. 
Flowering  plants  in  the  borders  looked  very 
well,  and  in  one  garden  Orchids  were  a  feature, 
the  magnificent  collection  of  plants  showing 
rude,  robust  health,  thus  proving  be3'ond  any 
question  that  town-dwellers  may  thoroughly 
enjoy  growing  Orchids  in  adverse  climatic 
circumstances.  Other  kinds  of  hot-house  plants 
were  equally  attractive  on  account  of  their  fine, 
healthy  state  ;  and  even  Grapes  had  been  grown 


in  one  of  the  gardens  and  were  good  enough  to 
have  a  gold  medal  awarded  them  at  a  leading 
exhibition  in  the  Midlands.  After  this  digres- 
sion I  must  return  to  the  lawns.  The  grass  was 
dark  green  in  colour  and  growing  almost  as 
closely  as  the  bristles  in  a  brush.  I  did  not 
notice  a  single  weed  although  there  may  have 
been  a  few,  and  in  one  garden  enclosure  a 
miniature  golf  ground  had  been  formed.  It  was 
about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  tennis  court,  with 
(I  was  going  to  say)  greens  and  holes  ;  the  holes 
were  there  certainly  as  denoting  golf  links,  but 
the  whole  lawn  appeared  as  one  grand  "green." 
These  facts  further  prove  that  town-dwellers 
may  command  many  pleasures  which  a  well-kept 
garden  is  capable  of  affording.  At  the  present 
time  give  dry  lawns  thorough  soakings  of  clear 
water  ;  mere  surface  sprinklings  are  useless. 
Also  take  off  the  box  from  the  machine  and 
allow  the  grass,  as  cut,  to  fall  on  the  lawn  and 
remain  there  ;  it  will  protect  the  roots  of  the 
young  grass  plants,  and,  being  short,  the  out 
blades  will  not  look  very  unsightly.  Further- 
more, make  use  of  clear  soot  water,  applying  it 
to  the  grass  while  it  is  still  moist  from  previous 
waterings  with  clear  water. 

Clogged  Mowing-machines.  —  When  the 
mowing-machine  is  used  in  dry  weather,  the 
blades  of  the  cylinder  soon  get  clogged  with  the 
sap  and  portions  of  the  grass.  If  the  gum-like 
substance  be  allowed  to  remain  adhering  to  the 
blades,  the  work  of  mowing  the  lawn  will  be 
hard  and  not  very  well  done  either.  Clear  away 
the  substance  with  the  aid  of  an  old  knife  and 
then  smear  the  blades  with  an  oiled  rag,  taking 
care  all  the  time  not  to  get  the  ends  of  the  fingers 
damaged  through  the  turning  of  the  cylinder. 
Before  putting  away  the  machine  after  each 
mowing  the  blades  ought  to  be  cleaned  and  oiled. 

Roses. — The  trees  must  be  well  watered  and 
fed  if  the  very  best  results  are  to  be  obtained. 
I  had  one  small  specimen  of  that  grand  variety 
Mme.  A.  Chatenay,  which  was  last  year  some- 
what neglected  on  account  of  its  apparent 
uselessness.  Then  I  commenced  to  regularly 
water  and  feed  it,  with  remarkably  good  results  ; 
young  shoots  began  to  grow,  and  iu  a  very  short 
time  more  than  a  dozen  buds  formed,  and  all 
opened  beautifully.  This  is  a  grand  variety  for 
growing  in  a  town  garden  and  for  filling  vases. 
I  do  not  know  of  any  other  sort  that  opens  as 
freely  in  water  when  placed  there  in  the  bud 
stage.  I  like  to  arrange  Rose  blooms  singly  in 
small  vases.  I  do  not  think  there  is  any  other 
way  of  showing  up  individual  blooms  to  better  ad- 
V  antage.  As  suggested  above,  give  the  Rose  trees 
ample  supplies  of  clear  water,  and  never  apply 
any  manure  in  either  a  liquid  or  a  dry  state  with- 
out being  quite  sure  that  the  soil  is  thoroughly 
moistened  well  below  the  roots.  Avon. 


-CELERY  PLANTED  IN  THE  PERMANENT  QO.\RTBRS.   NOTE  THAT  EACH  PLANT  HAS  StrFFICIENT 

ROOM  TO  DEVELOP  PROPERLY. 


S06 


THE    GARDEN. 


[June  19,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOE    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit     Pkpartment. 

VINES. — Keep  Grapes  which  are  per- 
fectly ripe  as  cool  as  circumstances 
will  permit,  and  do  not  let  the  roots 
get  too  dry.  To  keep  the  berries 
trefh  and  plump  for  some  time  it 
will  be  well  to  slightly  shade  the 
house  with  a  little  whiting  and  linseed  oil, 
just  enough  of  the  latter  to  make  the  whiting 
adhere  to  the  glass.  Grapes  colouring  should  be 
more  freely  ventilated  in  bright  weather,  allow- 
ing a  little  air  to  remain  on  during  the  night. 
Attend  lo  the  removal  of  laterals,  but  do  not 
expose  the  bunches  too  much.  Examine  the 
roots  as  colouring  commences,  and  if  dry  give  the 
borders  a  thorough  soaking  with  liquid  manure 
at  a  safe  strength  to  help  to  finish  the  crop. 

Latest  Vine  Houses. — All  thinning  should  now 
be  finished  and  the  houses  kept  well  damped 
down  so  as  to  maintain  healthy  growth.  Lady 
Downe's  should  not  be  too  severely  thinned 
except  where  there  is  no  danger  of  the  berries 
getting  scalded  during  the  stoning  period.  When 
thinning  the  berries  of  all  late  Grapes,  see  tliat 
the  footstalks  are  cut  clean  and  all  little  seedless 
berries  removed.  Regulate  the  fire-heat  accord- 
ing to  the  outside  atmosphere  ;  in  some  instances 
it  might  be  almost  or  quite  dispensed  with. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Trees  bearing  ripe 
fruits  should  have  abundance  of  air  at  all  times 
circulating  freely  among  the  branches  and  fruits. 
A  little  shade  will  greatly  lengthen  the  season 
and  be  helpful  in  preventing  the  buds  at  a  later 
period  from  getting  too  dry,  which  in  my 
opinion  is  one  of  the  principal  causes  of  bud- 
dropping.  Do  not  neglect  the  roots  at  any  time, 
abundance  of  water  and  plenty  of  syringing  over- 
head after  the  fruits  have  been  gathered  being 
most  essential  to  maintain  healthy,  robust 
foliage  and  to  secure  another  seasons  good  crop. 
Close  the  houses  of  later  crops  between  3.30  p.m. 
and  4.30  pm.,  with  plenty  of  moisture.  The 
large  varieties,  such  as  Princess  of  Wales,  Sea 
Eagle,  &c.,  must  not  be  overcropped  if  size  and 
flavour  are  to  be  considered  and  a  crop  the 
following  year. 

Plant  Houses. 

Pot  on  Gardenias  and  other  stove  plants  when 
required,  but  do  not  at  any  time  give  the  plants 
too  big  a  shift  when  repotting.  Larger  plants 
may  be  supplied  with  a  little  manure-water  or 
some  suitable  plant  food  at  intervals  to  assist 
growth  and  foliage. 

Allamandas  and  other  plants  growing  in  large 
pots  and  tubs  need  very  liberal  feeding  and  large 
supplies  of  water  during  the  time  they  are 
making  good  growth.  Train  the  shoots  neatly  to 
the  trellises,  not  too  thickly,  and  keep  the  plants 
generally  free  from  insects  and  other  pests. 

Azaleas  and  Camellias. — When  these  have  set 
their  buds  they  may  be  stood  outside  in  a  rather 
shaded  position.  Keep  them  well  syringed 
during  hot  weather,  and  should  the  plants 
become  infested  with  thrip,  use  a  little  Gishurst 
Compound  or  some  other  approved  remedy. 
Sow  more  Cinerarias  and  make  a  good  sowing  of 
Calceolarias.  See  that  the  pans  are  clean  and 
well  drained,  and  use  sandy  soil  pressed  firm. 
As  the  seeds  are  so  small,  take  care  not  to  bury 
them  too  deeply.  The  pans  should  be  stood  in  a 
cool  place  and  covered  with  a  square  of  glass  till 
the  young  seedlings  appear. 

Stveel-seented  Oeraiiiums  — To  keep  together  a 
nice  collection  of  these  propagation  at  intervals 
is  essential.  Do  not  give  the  roots  too  rich  a 
soil  ;  sandy  loam,  leaf-mould  and  a  little  sharp 
sand  will  suttiee.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS 

Flower    Garden. 

Herbaceous  Plants. -Many  of  these  will  now 
require  supporting  to  keep  them  erect.  The  use 
of  stakes  and  twine  is  often  objected  to  as 
unsightly  ;  but  unless  something  of  the  kind  is 
adopted,  the  plants  are  almost  sure  to  open  out 
until  they  rest  upon  surrounding  subjects,  or 
even  upon  the  ground,  with  the  result  that  the 
flower-heads  will  rise,  thus  causing  a  bend  in  the 
stems,  marring  their  beauty  and  unfitting  them 
for  pleasing  arrangement  as  cut  flowers.  A 
single  stake  to  either  medium  or  tall  growers  is 
seldom  satisfactory,  but  three  or  more,  according 
to  the  circumference  of  the  plant,  placed  around 
and  connected  with  strong  twine  form  an  eflSeient 
support  and  interfere  but  little  with  the  natural 
grace  and  beauty  of  the  plant.  Plants  long 
established  and  having  an  excess  of  foliage  are 
apt  to  suffer  in  dry  periods  :  it  circumstances 
permit,  copious  supplies  of  water  may  with 
advantage  be  given,  or,  if  otherwise,  free  use  of 
the  hoe  would  prove  beneficial. 

Hardy  Perennials. — Seeds  of  many  may  now  be 
sown  ;  if  under  the  protection  of  a  glass  frame 
the  more  successful  will  probably  be  the  result. 
Use  good  soil  and  cover  the  seeds  slightly  ;  if 
shaded  for  a  time  germination  is  accelerated.  In 
this  matter  patience  is  needed,  for  some  kinds 
may  not  appear  above  ground  for  weeks  after- 
ward.", but  in  the  end  be  over-abundant  fir 
requirements. 

Siveel  Peas. — Thin  those  intended  for  late 
blooms  severely,  for  as  the  season  advances 
growth  becomes  more  rampant,  and  with  the 
cool,  damp  nights  of  autumn  this  is  not  conducive 
to  continuity  of  blossom.  Stake  earlier  sowings 
as  they  become  fit,  taking  care,  if  branches  are 
used,  that  these  are  kept  in  cylindrical  form 
throughout  to  give  the  plants  room.  Water 
thoroughly  as  required,  but  withhold  stimulants, 
by  way  of  manure,  until  the  flowers  open,  till 
when  the  larder  about  the  roots  will  suffice. 

Vegetable    Garden. 

Celery. — Planting  of  the  main  crop  should  be 
carried  out  before  the  plants  get  drawn  through 
want  of  room  and  air  in  the  nursery  beds.  For 
general  use  1  foot  of  space  between  the  plants  is 
ample.  Moist  weather  should,  if  possible,  be 
chosen,  or,  failing  this,  thorough  watering  and 
shade  for  a  few  days. 

Seakale. — Numerous  growths  having  started 
from  the  thongs  planted  in  March,  these  should 
be  reduced  to  one.  To  be  successful  with  this 
crop  in  northern  parts,  the  most  must  be 
made  of  the  growing  season  ;  hence  frequent 
hoeing  of  the  surface,  or,  if  the  soil  is  of  a 
very  retentive  nature,  a  heavier  and  more  deeply 
penetrating  implement  may  with  advantage  be 
used. 

Asparagus  beds  are  showing  signs  of  exhaus- 
tion by  way  of  weaker  and  more  spindling  heads 
being  produced.  For  this  crop,  also  for  Seakale, 
a  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda,  1  oz.  to  the  square 
yard  of  surface,  is  helpful. 

Peas  require  staking  when  8  inches  in  height, 
as  if  they  get  top-heavy  and  incline  to  one  side 
labour  is  doubled.  Clean  along  the  rows  and 
loosen  the  soil,  finally  drawing  a  ridge  on  either 
side  before  inserting  the  stakes.  Main-crop  Peas 
require  plenty  of  room  ;  consequently  the  stakes 
should  incline  outwards  at  the  top  rather  than 
the  reverse. 

Pea  Weevil. — This,  as  well  as  various  other 
minute  insects,  attacks  the  foliage  at  times — 
perhaps  but  one  row  among  many — the  sickly 
looking  and  punctured  leaves  being  a  sure 
indication  of  their  presence.  Dusting  soot  along 
the  rows  when  moist  from  dew  or  rain,  if  done 
in  time,  will  often  save  the  plants ;  but  any 
badly  affected  are  best  destroyed  before  they 
infect  others.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

Galloway  House,  Garlieston,  Wigloiimshire. 


MAY- FLOWERING     TULIPS 
AT     COLCHESTER. 

SIGNS  are  not  wanting  that  the  many 
beautiful  Tulips  which  come  under  the 
heading  of  May  -  flowering  are  in- 
creasing in  popular  favour,  and  when 
compared  with  the  earlier  bedding 
varieties  this  is  not  at  all  surprising. 
In  these  late-flowering  Tulips  we  have  regular 
and  graceful  forms,  a  wide  range  of  colours, 
flowers  of  lasting  character,  long,  stout  stems, 
robust  foliage  and  not  infrequently  a  delicate 
fragrance ;  hence  it  will  be  seen  that  May- 
flowering  Tulips  have  much  to  commend  them  to 
all  who  love  flowers  of  more  than  usual  merit. 
During  recent  years  several  of  our  best  nursery- 
men have  devoted  much  attention  to  these 
Tulips,  foremost  among  them  being  Messrs.  R. 
Wallace  and  Co.  of  Colchester.  A  week  or  so 
before  the  Temple  Show  we  had  an  opportunity 
of  visiting  this  ancient  and  historic  town,  and 
naturally  we  wished  to  see  how  the  Tulips  were 
doing  at  Messrs.  Wallace's  nursery.  Despite 
the  excessive  dry  weather  which  had  been 
experienced  some  time  prior  to  our  visit,  these 
Colchester  Tulips  were  doing  remarkably  well, 
their  robustness  and  brilliant,  large  flowers 
denoting  culture  of  the  highest  order.  Grown 
in  batches  of  one  sort,  we  had  an  excellent 
opportunity  of  judging  the  numerous  varieties, 
and  below  we  mention  a  few  that  appealed  to  us 
very  strongly  on  account  of  their  all-round 
good  qualities. 

Among  new  ones  we  were  most  interested  in 
President,  a  superb  orange  variety  that  had  been 
granted  an  award  of  merit  by  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society.  It  is  a  rather  pointed  flower  of 
exquisite  shape,  and  is  certain  to  be  in  great 
demand.  Blue  Eye  is  quite  a  unique  variety, 
the  well-shaped  flowers  being  deep  mauve  with 
a  light,  almost  sky  blue  eye.  It  is  tall  and 
vigorous,  and  should  find  a  place  in  every  good 
collection.  Beauty  of  Bath  has  long,  pointed 
flowers  of  graceful  outline,  the  colour  being  soft 
pale  yellow,  flushed  externally  with  reddish 
purple.  It  is  a  very  chaste  Tulip.  Red  Standard 
is  a  beauty.  The  flowers  are  large,  of  a  beautiful 
shade  of  red  both  inside  and  out,  and  it  is  of  a 
rather  dwarf  habit.  As  a  late  bedding  variety  this 
Tulip  should  prove  most  valuable.  La  Parisienne 
is  another  splendid  novelty,  the  shape  of  which 
reminds  one  of  the  well-known  Mrs.  Moon  ;  the 
colour  is  delicate  light  pink  and  is  quite  distinct. 
Of  the  older  varieties,  we  saw  so  many  that  were 
good  that  it  is  difficult  to  know  which  to  omit. 
<,)uaintness  is  one  that  is  most  appropriately 
named.  The  flowers  are  of  good  shape,  dark 
brown,  flushed  with  deep  rose  outside  and  shaded 
mahogany  on  a  yellow  ground  inside.  The 
unique  colouring  of  this  Tulip  must  be  seen  to 
be  fully  realised. 

In  Inglescombe  Pink,  I.  Scarlet  and  L  Yellow 
we  have  three  varieties  of  sterling  merit  and 
graceful  outline.  Dom  Pedro  is  a  beautiful  dark 
maroon  variety  with  bronze  and  mahogany 
shading,  and  is  one  that  we  have  a  special  liking 
for.  Others  that  specially  appealed  to  us  were 
Ixioides,  a  rather  small  canary  yellow  flower  with 
black  Ixia-like  centre  ;  La  Reve,  rose  and 
orange  ;  Mauriana,  one  of  the  Savoy  Tulips,  with 
large  orange  scarlet  flowers  with  yellow  centres  ; 
The  Fawn,  fawn  and  apricot  colour  ;  and  Walter 
T.  Ware,  the  deep  rich  yellow  new  variety. 

Among  the  Darwins  we  saw  some  extra  good 
sorts,  but  lack  of  space  forbids  us  to  dwell 
extensively  on  these.  Baronne  Tonnaye,  very 
tall,  pale  rose  ;  Clara  Butt,  salmon  rose  and 
pink  ;  Farneombe  Sandars,  scarlet  crimson  ;  La 
Candeur,  creamy  white  ;  La  Tulipe  Noire,  the 
black  Tulip  ;  Melicette,  soft  lilac ;  Millett, 
crimson  maroon  ;  Pride  of  Haarlem,  large  scarlet 
and  red,  with  bright  blue  base  ;  Van  Poortvleit, 
very  large  rose-coloured  flowers  with  lilac  base  ; 
and  Zulu,  very  rich  purple  black,  were  a  few  that 
we  noted  doing  particularly  well  in  this  section. 


June  19,  1909. 


THE     GAllDEN. 


307 


NEW     PLANTS. 

L.elio-Cattleya  Mikado. — This  is  a  remark- 
ably clear-coloured  flower,  the  sepals  and  petals 
being  a  clear  yet  rich  canary  yellow  and  quite 
free  from  blemish.  The  sepals  are  roughly 
lanceolate  and  reflexed  at  the  margins,  the  petals 
being  much  broader  and  also  reflexed.  The 
labellum  is  rich  carmine  in  colour,  with  a  very 
narrow  yet  well-defined  margin  of  pale  yellow, 
rich  orange  yellow  being  present  in  the  throat. 
The  labellum  is  of  medium  size  and  well  formed. 
The  plant  shown  had  one  raceme  composed  of 
four  fully  developed  flowers.  Exhibited  by 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  CLE.,  C.V.O., 
Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire.  First- 
class  certificate. 

Odontoglossum  amabile  fowlerianum. — A  very 
large-flowered  variety  of  mixed  colouring.  The 
sepals  and  petals  each  have  a  large  blotch  of  dull 
brownish  crimson  placed  towards  the  base,  the 
apices  being  coloured  violet  and  the  whole  of  the 
segments  edged  dull  white.  Shown  by  ,J. 
Gurney  Fowler,  Esq.,  Glebelands,  South  Wood- 
ford.    Award  of  merit. 

Gattleya  Mossice  A.  Dimmocle. — A  very  large- 
flowered  form  of  this  well-known  Orchid,  the 
sepals  and  petals  being  a  rather  deeper  lilac  hue 
than  those  of  the  type.  The  labellum,  too,  is 
more  richly  coloured  and  better  fringed,  the 
whole  flower  being  large  yet  refined.  Shown 
by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  CLE  ,  C.V.O. 
Award  of  merit. 

Lcslio-GaUltya  Feronia. — This  is  a  flower  of  a 
rather  unique  colour-combination.  The  narrow 
sepals  are  almost  pale  salmon  in  colour,  the 
large  and  broad  petals  being  dull  rosy  pink ; 
the  large  labellum  is  very  rich  carmine  self,  with 
the  exception  of  some  orange  yellow  markings  in 
the  throat.  A  very  handsome  and  attractive 
flower.  Shown  by  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart., 
K.CV.O.,  Burford,  Dorking.     Award  of  merit. 

Oeum  coccineum  Mrs.  J.  Bradshaw. — A  large- 
flowered  variety  of  the  well-known  double 
scarlet  Geum,  the  colour  being  of  a  somewhat 
deeper  shade  of  scarlet.  Exhibited  by  Messrs. 
G.  and  A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover.  Award  of 
merit. 

Lithospermum  prostratum  Heavenly  Blue. — A 
very  beautiful  and  distinct  variety  of  this  well- 
known  plant,  the  colour  being  a  clear  sky  blue. 
In  every  way  a  desirable  addition.  Shown  by 
Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Hardy  Plant  Farm,  Enfleld. 
Award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Paradise  Apple  Blossom. — To  add 
anything  to  an  appropriate  and  descriptive 
name  would  be  superfluous.  We  allow  the  name 
to  speak  for  itself.  Shown  by  Miss  Hemus, 
Upton-on-Severn.     Award  of  merit. 

Iris  Ed.  Michel. — A  very  striking  and  effec- 
tive variety,  the  standards  and  falls  of  a  rosy 
purple  shade,  lightened  towards  the  base.  The 
falls  are  freely  veined.  A  tall  variety  of  merit. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  R.  W.  Wallace  and  Co., 
Colchester.     Award  of  merit. 

Scolopendrium  vidgare  criapum  multifidum. — 
A  very  handsome  form  in  which  the  termini  of  the 
fronds  are  heavily  and  numerously  tasselled. 

Scolopendrium  vulgare  crispum  murieato- 
fimbriatum. — A  distinct  variety  in  which  the 
fronds  are  much  waved  or  undulated  from  the 
margin  to  the  approach  of  the  midrib.  Both 
were  shown  by  Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons, 
Edmonton,  and  each  received  an  award  of  merit. 

Araucaria  excelsa  Silver  Star. — Several  plants 
of  from  2J  feet  to  .3  feet  high  were  exhibited, 
and  in  each  case  the  extremities  of  the  branchlets 
to  a  depth  of  3  inches  or  more  were  uniformly 
coloured  a  silvery  white.  The  only  well-marked 
variation  of  the  Norfolk  Island  Pine  we  have 
seen.  Shown  by  Messrs.  T.  Rochford,  Turnford 
Hall,  Broxbourne.     Award  of  merit. 

Polypodium  glaucum  crispum. — Some  two  or 
three  years  ago  Polypodium  glaucum  Mayi 
received  an  award  of  merit  or  first-class  certifi- 
cate, and  the  present  variety  is  in  many  respects 
very  similar,  the  wavy  extremities  of  the  fronds 


in  all  probability  suggesting  the  varietal  name. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Rochford,  Turnford  Hall. 
Award  of  merit. 

Schizanthus  Beauty  of  Trent. — In  this  case 
the  award  was  given  for  the  strain,  which  is  a 
highly  meritorious  one.  From  Mr.  H.  Parr, 
New  Barnet.     Award  of  merit. 

Aquilegia  Dobbies'  Strain. — This  is  a  very 
fine  strain  of  the  long-spurred  Aquilegia  or 
Columbine,  the  delicate  colours  being  exceed- 
ingly beautiful  and  the  flowers  of  a  most  graceful 
form.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co., 
Rothesay  and  Mark's  Tey.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  Sth  inst. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOB    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Aaawera.—The  Editor  intmeU 
to  make  IHB  Oakdei)  helpjul  to  aU  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  wHl  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  toritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  BDrroK  of  TBS 
OAKDEN,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Caoeia  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  s?u)uld  be  sent  to  the  Publishbe. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
iddUion  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
aaper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Crown  Imperials  {E.  M.  Fancourt).— 

The  small  size  of  the  bulbs — which  were  very 
much  crushed  when  received — and  the  poor, 
enfeebled  growth  suggest  a  starved  condition 
generally.  You  had  better  try  heavy  manuring 
of  the  soil,  which  should  be  dug  quite  2  feet 
deep,  incorporating  some  lime  as  the  work  pro- 
ceeds. The  Crown  Imperials  prefer  a  rather 
strong  chalky  loam,  and  the  bulbs  should  not  be 
nearer  than  6  inches  to  the  surface.  You  should 
replant  them  in  June  or  .July  and  not  err 
on  the  side  of  generosity  when  dealing  with 
them.  Once  well  planted,  the  bulbs  may  remain 
for  years. 

Planting:  flower-bed  (Mount  ff.).—A 
simple  and  effective  bed  could  be  made  as 
follows :  Outer  edging,  Alyssum ;  next.  Antir- 
rhinums; then  distribute  the  Marguerites  freely 
at  intervals  over  the  bed ;  and,  finally,  prick 
out  the  Asters  in  between.  The  Marguerites 
should  be  arranged  9  inches  to  1  foot  apart,  and 
if  you  have  not  a  sufficient  number  of  plants 
you  might  bed  out  the  Marigolds  in  mixture 
with  the  Asters.  You  have  too  many  things  for 
the  one  bed,  and  the  use  of  all  of  them  would 
only  create  a  rather  strange  medley.  If  the 
number  of  plants  at  your  disposal  are  in- 
sufficient, the  Stocks  may  be  used  as  well  as  the 
Asters. 

A  weedy  lawn  [Despair).  —  It  seems 
obvious  that,  although  the  dressing  of  sulphate  of 
ammonia  killed  the  large  leafy  weeds  in  your 
lawn,  it  did  not  destroy  the  seeds  which  these 
weeds  had  so  freely  produced,  perhaps,  for  several 
years  and  of  which  the  soil  is  doubtless  full.  It 
is  even  possible  that  some  weed  seeds  were  in  the 
leaf-soil  and  road  sweepings — in  the  latter  espe- 
cially, if  there  be  grassy  breadths  or  ditches  on 
each  side,  as  weed  seeds  would  blow  from  these 
into  the  road.  We  fear  you  will  have  next  winter 
to  face  the  labour  and  cost  of  having  the  whole 
of  your  lawn  lightly  forked  over  a  few  inches  in 
depth,  all  existing  grass  and  weeds  thrown  out 
and  removed,  and  a  heavy  dressing  of  soot  and 
about  61b.  per  rod  area  of  basic  slag  put  on 
it  and  well  scratched  in.  Early  in  March  what 
weed  seeds  were  on  the  surface  would  grow. 


Have  them  well  hoed  and  raked  off  quite  clean  ; 
then  immediately  sow  good  lawn  grass  seed 
thickly  and  well  roll  it  in.  If  the  grass  gets  the 
start  of  any  other  weeds,  a  really  good  lawn,  free 
from  them,  should  soon  result.  You  can  use  the 
old  turf  for  a  dressing,  but  not  the  rubbish. 

Carnation  leaves  diseased  (Miis  I.  i!.).— The 
leaves  appear  to  have  been  damaged  by  aphis.  As  the 
plants  are  groiving  in  a  house,  if  the  aphis  is  still  evident 
upon  them  they  may  be  Inmigated  with  a  fnmigant  such 
asXLorAbol. 

Culture  of  Gentians  (i^'/nncfccus).  —  Gentiana 
bavarica  succeeds  best  in  moist,  spongy  soil  exposed  to  full 
sun,  and  thrives  well  in  sphagnum  moss  mixed  with 
broken  limestone,  leaf-mould  and  sandy  peat.  You 
might  try  G.  Bigelovii  in  a  similar  spot  with  somewhat 
firmer  planting  and  decidedly  less  cbaU^ 

Raising  Kochlas  from  seed  (H.  B.  F.).— 
Yes  ;  the  Kochia  can  be  raised  without  artificial  heat  from 
seeds,  and  the  latter  should  be  sown  in  the  open  in  a 
warm  and  sunny  place  and  in  rich  soil  in  May,  covering 
the  seeds  slightly  with  fine  soil,  thinning  the  seedlings  as 
early  as  possible  and  pricking  them  out  a  few  iuches 
apart.  Give  them  rich  soil  and  a  sunny  situatiou,  and 
they  should  colour  well  in  autumn. 

Narcissus  poeticus  flore-pieno  (Grace 
Gardt  IK  I).— This  variety  of  Narcissus  is  of  a  decidedly 
moisture-loviDg  nature,  and  prefers  clay  soils  or  such  as 
are  retentive  and  moisture-holding.  In  certain  instances 
it  does  well  when  partly  submerged  and  thrives  best 
beside  a  lake  or  stream.  In  any  case,  rather  deep  planting 
should  be  indulged  in,  and  the  bulbs  should  not  be  fre- 
quently disturbed  or  dried  after  lifting,  but  replanted  at 
once.    The  Triteleias  are  now  referred  to  as  Brodiaas. 

Names  of  Tulips  (Hall  Place).— The  long  red  with 
the  blue  base  is  gesneriana  spathulata ;  the  soft  yellow 
with  reflexing  petals  is  retroflexa ;  the  large  orange  red 
with  a  yellowish  base  is  La  Merveille ;  the  semi-double 
salmon  pink  is  unknown  to  us.  Curiously  enough,  your 
bloom  is  the  second  that  has  been  sent  for  us  to  name. 
We  have  consulted  experts  in  England  and  Holland  and 
they  are  unable  to  name  it.  Probably  it  is  some  seedling 
which  has  got  into  certain  Dutch  mixtures  and  never  been 
propagated  separately,  as  it  is  not  very  large. 

BooIk  on  Auriculas  (ff.  E.  F.).— There  is  no 
modern  inexpensive  work  on  the  market  on  the  Auricula 
that  we  know  of  at  present.  You  might  be  able  to  procure 
a  second-hand  copy  of  Thomas  Hogg's  "Practical  Treatise 
on  the  Culture  of  the  Carnation,  Pink,  Auricula,  Ac."  for 
about  3s.,  and  the  articles  which  appear  from  time  to 
time  in  The  Garden  will  give  you  all  the  information 
really  required  for  the  culture  of  these  beautiful  flowers. 
Nicholson's  "Dictionary  of  Gardening"  has  full  details, 
but  it  Is  more  expensive  than  you  probably  wish.  "The 
Century  Book  of  Gardening"  (London:  Country  Life, 
Limited)  contains  a  useful  description  of  the  method  of 
cultivation  of  the  Auricula. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Treatment  of  an  Azalea  (Azalea).— 
If  your  Azalea  is  a  good  shapely  plant,  it  will 
not  require  any  pruning,  and  whether  it  needs 
repotting  will  depend  upon  the  state  the  soil  is 
in.  If  in  good  condition,  you  need  not  interfere 
with  the  roots,  as  Azaleas  will  keep  in  good 
health  for  two  or  three  years  without  potting. 
Should  one  or  two  of  the  branches  have  a 
straggling  tendency,  they  may  be  shortened  back 
in  order  to  maintain  the  symmetrical  character 
of  the  specimen.  Then  place  the  plant  in  the 
conservatory,  keep  it  well  supplied  with  water 
and  syringe  it,  if  possible,  two  or  three  times  a 
day  during  hot  weather,  as  atmospheric  moisture 
is  very  conducive  to  the  welfare  of  the  Azalea. 
When  the  plant  has  made  good  growth,  say,  the 
end  of  June,  it  may  be  stood  out  of  doors  in 
order  to  ripen  the  wood  and  thus  ensure  the 
formation  of  flower-buds  for  the  next  season's 
display.  A  dose  of  weak  soot-water  occasionally 
during  the  growing  season  will  be  helpful.  A- 
the  probability  is  the  plant  will  be  shaded  whe 
in  the  conservatory,  care  must  be  taken  to  place 
it  in  a  partially  shaded  spot  when  first  put  ou 
of  doors,  and  inure  it  to  exposure  by  degrees  to 
the  full  rays  of  the  sun.  Should  the  plant 
require  potting,  a  suitable  compost  is  peat  and 
sand.  This  soil  must  be  pressed  down  very 
firmly  and  care  taken  not  to  bury  the  ball  of 
earth  deeper  than  it  was  before.  In  winter  the 
structure  in  which  this  Azalea  is  kept  should  not 
even  at  night  fall  below  45°. 

Information    about    an    Oleander 

(N.  M.  B.  i).).— In  common  with  many  evergreen  shrubs, 
some  of  the  old  leaves  of  the  Oleander  die  off  in  the  spring 
when  the  new  ones  are  pushed  out,  and  nothing  will 
prevent  that.  You  do  not  say  if  the  leaves  that  drop  are 
on  the  lowest  part  of  the  branches  and,  consequently,  the 


308 


THE     GARDEN. 


[June  19,  1909. 


oldest,  but  we  presume  they  are.  Conceruiofi;  the  treat- 
ment given,  the  Oleander  is  essentially  a  moisture-loviup; 
plant,  but  even  then  continual  standing  in  a  saucer  of 
water  is  very  likely  to  prove  harmful.  It  is  the  stagnant 
water  in  contact  with  the  roots  that  the  plants  resent ; 
hence  the  saucer  should  be  emptied  once  a  day.  You 
omitted  to  enclose  your  name  and  address  ;  in  future  no 
notice  can  be  taken  of  anonymous  queries. 

Passion  Flowrep  dead  (//.  P.  7^.).— It  is  too  late 
to  say  what  the  precise  cause  of  the  death  of  the  shoot 
was,  but  it  would  appear  probable  that  a  fungus  (possibly 
Botrytis)  gained  ingress  into  the  wound  near  the  spot  yuu 
have  marked  and  killed  the  tissues  in  its  neighbourhood. 
The  wood  was  probably  not  very  well  ripened. 

Culture  of  Abutilons  {(t.  C/a/lv).  — Standard 
plants  of  Abutilon  vexillarium  vanegatum  can  lie  obtained 
either  by  growing  on  the  plants  from  cuttings  or  by  graft- 
ing. By  this  last-named  method  effective  standards  can 
be  obtained  in  a  less  time  than  if  struck  from  cuttings. 
Any  vigorous-growing  form  of  the  t^arden  varieties  may  be 
used  as  a  stock,  the  main  point  being  that  it  has  a  good 
clean  stem  to  the  height  required.  Seed  of  Abutilons  is 
readily  obtainable,  and  most  of  the  young  plants  grow 
quickly  and  soon  reach  a  height  of  a  yard  or  more.  For 
grafting  purposes  these  stocks  should  be  kept  in  com- 
paratively small  pots,  as  they  are  then  more  convenient  for 
handling.  The  principal  care  in  grafting  is  to  have  a  close 
propagating-case  in  which  the  grafted  plants  can  be  placed 
till  a  union  is  complete.  It  is  not  at  all  necessary  that 
the  case  be  of  sufficient  height  to  allow  the  grafted  plants 
to  stand  upright,  as  they  can  be  laid  down  till  a  union  is 
effected,  which  will  not  be  long.  Ordinaiy  cleft  grafting 
may  be  employed,  and  if  the  stock  is  sufficiently  stout  two 
grafts  can  be  inserted,  as  the  shoots  of  A.  vexillarium  are 
very  slender.  Carefully  fitted  and  tied  securely  in  position, 
these  grafts  will  not  need  any  wax  or  clay  if  there  is  a 
close  case  or  frame  in  which  to  place  them.  If  there  is 
no  convenience  of  this  kind,  then  the  better  way  will  be 
to  grow  on  young  plants  as  quickly  as  possible  till  the 
required  height  is  obtained,  and  then  pinch  out  the  leading 
shoot  in  order  to  fo:ni  a  htaii. 


TREES    AMD    SHRUBS. 
Magrnolia    leaf    for    inspection 

(Dtvonia). — From  the  appearance  of  the  Mag- 
nolia leaf  you  send,  the  plant  is  evidently  in  a 
bad  state  of  health.  The  spotted  and  shrivelled 
leaves  denote  bad  root-action.  You  would  have 
done  better  to  have  deferred  the  planting  until 
April  or  May.  Magnolias  are  difficult  plants  to 
establish,  and  the  evergreen  ones  should  be 
transplanted  just  as  growth  is  commencing. 
Your  Bamboos  are  sullering  from  the  same  cause  ; 
they  were  moved  in  the  autumn,  and  there  were 
practically  no  active  roots  throughout  the  winter, 
which  accounts  for  the  slow  growth.  May  is  a 
good  time  to  transplant  Bamboos,  when  young 
growths  are  a  few  inches  long  and  young  roots 
are  being  formed.  They  ought  to  succeed  in  the 
position  j-ou  mention,  providing  you  worked  the 
soil  well  batore  planting. 

Injured   Rhododendron  buds  (A.  w.  N  )  — 

Without  doubt  the  destruction  wrought  among  the 
flower-buds  of  your  Rhododendron  -Tacksonii  was  caused 
by  the  one  or  two  specially  severe  frosts  we  liad  durinf;  the 
winter.  When  such  frosts  follow  on  moisture  the  effect 
on  such  things  is  apt  to  be  destructive.  We  heard 
weeks  ago  of  the  grave  mischief  done  to  Rhododendron 
buds  by  frosts  when  in  very  exposed  places,  the  buds  then 
being  quite  soft  and  pulpy.  All  such  buds  would  before 
now  show  the  same  injury  as  yours  do.  R.  ponticum  is 
one  of  the  hardiest,  and  most  likely  the  buds  on  that 
species  have  not  come  to  harm.  Vou  will  doubtless  get 
good  growth  ou  your  plant  presently  and  new  buds 
form.  With  a  mild  winter  these  may  escape  harm, 
but  a  light  covering  laid  over  the  bush  at  night  next 
winter  if  the  temperatuie  falls  very  low  may  save  it  from 
injury. 


FRUIT    GARDEN, 


Nectarine  leaves  diseased  {Church- 
hill).  — Your  tree  is  affected  by  a  disease  known 
as  Peach-leaf  blister.  It  is  the  result  of  a  fungoid 
attack  (Exoascus  deformans)  brought  about  by 
chills  in  very  cold  weather  in  spring,  such  as  we 
have  recently  experienced.  The  best  way  of 
destroying  the  fungus  is  by  dredging  the  tree 
early  in  the  morning,  while  it  is  damp  with  dew, 
with  flowers  of  sulphur.  The  sulphur  will  then 
adhere  to  the  leaves,  both  sides  of  which  must  be 
dredged  ;  indeed,  every  portion  nf  the  tree  In 
twenty-four  hours  the  sulphur  will  have  destroyed 
the  fungus,  when  it  should  be  syringed  off  on  to  tho 
border,  and  when  dry  cleared  away.  A  Nectarimi 
tree  not  in  robust  health  (a  condition  we  conclude 
your  tree  is  in  by  the  small  size  and  poor  sub- 
stance of  the  leaves)    is  always    an    easy    prey 


to  disease,  and  the  only  way  to  protect 
it  in  future  is  by  improving  its  health  and 
infusing  more  vigour  into  its  growth.  This  is 
also  the  only  way  in  which  it  can  be  brought 
back  to  fruitfulness.  A  Nectarine  tree  is  never 
too  old  to  bear  fruit,  so  long  as  it  can  be  main- 
tained in  good  health,  and  no  fruit  tree  is  easier 
to  bring  round  to  this  condition  than  a  Peach  or 
Nectarine. 

Black  Hamburgh  Vine  in  a  cold 
g^reenhOUSe  [Black  flamliurgh). — Without 
seeing  the  Vine  it  is  difficult  to  say  how  inany 
bunches  of  Grapes  its  strength  will  permit  it  to 
bring  to  perfection.  Much  depends  on  the 
strength  of  the  Vine  and  also  on  the  size  of  the 
bunches.  But,  presuming  that  the  Vine  is  in 
robust  health,  and  that  the  bunches  are  of 
moderate  size  and  weight  (say,  from  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  to  one  pound),  we  think 
that  each  of  the  six  side  shoots  should  be  able  to 
carry  and  finish  five  bunches,  thus  making  thirty 
bunches  in  all. 

Raspberry   trees   failing:   [E.    M., 

County  Cfar-e). —Raspberry  trees  often  resent 
being  taken  up  and  replanted,  and  not  infre- 
quently retaliate  by  refusing  to  grow  freely  for 
two  or  three  years  afterwards.  Evidently  it  is 
so  in  your  case.  The  replanting,  when  it  has 
to  be  done,  should  be  carried  out  in  the  autumn 
whenever  possible.  The  chances  of  the  trees 
recovering  from  the  disturbance  in  a  short  time 
are  far  greater  than  when  replanting  takes  place 
in  spring.  The  suckers  which  are  growing  from 
the  roots  of  each  tree  should  be  thinned  out, 
leaving  four  only  of  the  strongest  to  grow  on. 
These,  if  they  grow  freely,  will  probably  give 
some  fruit  in  the  autumn  ;  at  any  rate,  they 
ought  to  make  useful  canes  by  the  end  of  the 
summer  and  give  you  a  good  crop  next  year. 
The  suckers  to  be  thinned  out  should  be  pulled 
up  by  the  root  (not  out  off)  and  the  disturbed 
ground  made  firm  again  by  treading.  The 
Raspberry  is  a  surface-rooting  plant,  and  if  you 
can  have  a  layer  of  rotten  manure,  3  inches  deep, 
laid  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  over  the  roots  of 
the  suckers  left,  it  will  greatly  help  their  growth 
during  the  summer.  If  all  the  stems  of  last 
year's  growth  are  in  the  same  condition  as  the 
sample  sent,  they  had  better  be  cut  off.  This 
one  is  practically  dead. 

Pear  tree  leaves  diseased  (A.  R , 

Dundee). —The  foliage  of  your  Pear  tree  is 
suffering  from  a  bad  attack  of  a  fungus  called 
Cladosporum  dentriticum.  It  generally  confines 
its  attack  to  trees  in  indifferent  health,  and 
seldom  or  ever  affects  trees  of  robust  growth. 
There  is  no  known  remedy  for  its  destruction, 
and  the  only  thing  which  can  be  done  to  prevent 
its  recurrence  is  to  replant  the  tree  in  the  follow- 
ing soil  compound  this  autumn  after  the  leaves 
have  fallen.  To  one  barrow-load  of  turfy  loam 
add  half  a  gallon  of  bone-dust,  a  gallon  of  lime, 
and  a  peck  of  old  ceiling  or  mortar  rubble,  or,  in 
the  absence  of  this,  of  old  bricks  broken  small,  i 
with  the  dust  included,  will  do.  Mix  well  and 
replant  in  this,  taking  care  not  to  injure  the 
roots  in  the  operation  more  than  can  be  helped, 
and  cutting  back  the  strongest  roots  to  half  their 
length.  If  the  tree  is  more  than  nine  years  old, 
it  would  not  be  safe  to  lift  it  entirely  out  of  the 
ground.  In  that  case  the  way  to  proceed  will  be 
to  take  away  all  the  surface  soil  until  a  good 
body  of  roots  are  reached,  placing  the  new  soil 
firmly  over  the  roots  to  the  depth  of  li  inches. 
You  will  find  that  this  treatment  will  infuse  new 
life  and  strength  to  the  tree,  which  will  fortify 
it  afterwards  against  farther  attacks  from  the 
fungvro. 

Vine  leaves  damaged  (Cotiky).—We  think  that 
the  damage  has  been  caused  by  a  burst  of  hot  suushiiie 
falling  directly  on  the  leaves  early  in  the  morning  while 
they  were  damp  and  when  the  vinery  was  insufflciently 
ventilated.  The  leaves  are  a  splendid  colour  aud  of  fair 
substance,  and  bv  this  we  conclude  that  the  Vines  are  m 
good  health  except  for  this  injury.  By  applying  a  little  heat 
to  the  hot-water  pipes  at  night  and  leaving  a  small  chink 
of  air  on  back  and  front  ventilators  (all  night),  the  air  will 
be  kept  moving  and  the  danger  from  condensed  moisture 
in  the  morning  avoided  as  well  as  the  burning. 


KITCHEN     GARDEN. 
Rhubarb  roots  dying  off"  (N.  R.  L. ). 

Your  young  crowns  were  planted  out  at  the 
worst  possible  time  (November).  The  cut  roots 
would  have  no  chance  of  healing  up  before  spring, 
until  new  roots  were  formed,  and  there  is  no 
doubt  that  your  two  roots  which  refused  to  grow 
rotted  off  during  the  winter.  The  best  time  to 
replant  Rhubarb  is  from  the  middle  to  the  end 
of  March,  according  as  to  whether  the  season  is 
early  or  late.  The  time  to  replant  is  just  as  new 
growth  begins.  New  roots  will  then  immediately 
emit  from  the  old  cut  roots,  and  there  will  be  no 
chance  of  their  rotting  off.  We  have  no  fault  to 
find  with  the  way  you  prepared  the  soil,  but  you 
buried  the  crowns  too  deep.  They  do  not  want 
burying  at  all,  but  simply  to  be  placed  low  enough 
for  the  top  of  the  crown  to  be  slightly  lower  than 
the  surface  of  the  soil.  What  you  say  about 
exposing  the  roots  to  the  air  for  a  few  days  is 
wrong. 

Weak  Asparagus  growth  (F.  C ).— The  weak 
growths  sent  up  from  your  Asparagus  roots  may  be  due 
to  old  age  and  exhaustion.  In  any  case  and  whatever  the 
cause,  if  the  ground  was  badly  prepared  prior  to  planting 
it  is  diflicult  by  any  surface-dressing  to  improve  it.  The 
soil  beneath  the  roots  may  be  sour  or  very  poor.  If  you 
prefer  to  dress  your  bed  with  stimulants,  do  so  now  by 
using  superphosphate  of  lime  three  parts  and  sulphate 
of  ammonia  one  part,  well  crushed  and  mixed,  then  dress 
on  the  bed  at  the  rate  of  4oz.  to  the  square  yard,  working 
it  into  the  soil  with  the  Dutch  hoe.  .Soot  may  be  also  used 
freely  in  the  same  way.  Occasional  soakings  of  liquid 
manure  or  exposed  sewage  should  help.  In  very  dry 
weather  a  thin  sprinkling  of  coarse  salt  is  useful.  But, 
after  all,  it  may  be  best  to  make  a  fresh  bed.  This,  how- 
ever, cannot  be  done  till  next  spring,  when  two  year  old 
roots  should  be  obtained  to  plant.  But  that  time  is  now 
far  oft,  and  it  would  be  well  to  ask  for  further  instructions 
early  in  February  next. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Addresses  wanted  (£.  T.,  iValsalt).— We  &te  not 
aware  of  the  addresses  you  desire.  If  you  enclose  an 
addressed  envelope  to  Herr  Lambert,  Trier,  Germany,  or 
to  W.  Hinner,  Trier-Pallien,  Germany,  we  should  say  you 
would  obtain  the  information. 

Information  about  leather- jackets 
{.V(7'-ry7o/)).— Leather-jackets  are  the  grubs  of  the  daddy- 
long-legs  or  crane-fly.  They  are  about  the  thickness  of  a 
quill  pen,  legless  and  about  IJ  inches  in  length,  tapering 
towards  the  head  and  ending  abruptly  at  the  tail.  They 
are  of  a  brownish  grey  colour  and  their  skins  are  very  soft 
and  tough  ;  hence  their  name.— G.  S.  S. 

Caterpillars  on  fruit  trees  (C.  JV.).— The 
citerpillars  attacking  the  foliage  of  your  fruit  trees  are 
th  ise  of  the  winter  moth  (Cheimatobia  brumata).  Spray 
with  a  wash  of  arsenate  of  lead.  Bordeaux  mixture  is 
only  a  fungicide.  Put  grease-bands  round  the  trees  in 
October  to  prevent  the  female  moths,  which  have  no 
wings,  from  crawling  up  the  stems. — G.  S.  S. 

Green  beetles  on  shrubs  (»'.  Jf.).  —  The 
green  beetles  are  one  of  the  leaf-eating  weevils  belonging 
to  the  genus  Phyllobius.  Spray  with  an  arsenate  of  lead 
wash.  Dissolve  iloz.  of  acetate  of  lead  in  loz.  of  arsenate 
of  soda  in  10  gallons  of  water,  which  will  poison  the 
leaves,  llany  might  be  caught  by  shakin,-  the  boughs 
over  an  open  umbrella  or  some  substance  which  has  been 
newly  tarred  or  painted.— G.  S.  .S. 

Rose  ClimblngLlbertywith  curled  foliage 
iPt'tei-  I''au-ht(rst).—A5  you  have  not  sent  us  a  sample  leaf, 
we  can  only  surmise  the  curling  is  caused  either  by 
milfiew  or  the  leaves  have  been  scorched  by  the  recent 
bright  sunshine.  If  they  appear  as  though  singed,  the 
latter  is  the  cause,  and  you  must  take  steps  to  slightly 
shade  the  plant  by  painting  the  glass  lightly  with 
Summer  Cloud.  It  the  leaves  have  a  whitish  appear- 
ance, the  cause  is  mildew.  For  this  fungus  a  good 
syringing  with  Lifebuoy  soap  water  will  check  it  if  it  does 
not  cure.  Half  a  bar  of  the  soap  to  three  gallons  of  soft 
water  makes  an  excellent  wash  for  mildewed  growths 
upon  indoor  Roses. 

Destroying  Nettles  In  garden  (Bre(.v«).— 
If  yuu  can  prevent  Nettles  from  making  any  stem  and  leaf 
growth,  you  will  in  that  way  finally  exterminate  them.  If 
the  Nettles  are  now  strong,  have  them  cut  hard  down  at 
once  ;  then  proceed  to  have  all  the  roots  possible  forked 
out,  dried  and  burnt.  This  means  much  labour,  but  it  is 
needful.  If  you  do  not  thus  endeavour  to  fork  out  the 
roots,  you  must  in  any  case  hoe  the  surface  hard  where 
the  Nettles  are  growing  with  a  sharp-edged  hoe,  and 
persist  in  doing  so  for  at  leastonce  a  fortnight,  so  that  not  a 
.stem  or  leaf  can  be  found.  So  treated  the  roots  must  in 
time  die  away ;  but  the  process  is  longer  than  is  the  case 
if  forking  out  the  roots  is  practised.  Very  likely,  if 
Nettles  have  long  been  growing,  they  have  seeded ; 
hence  the  soil  may  be  full  of  Nettle  seed.  If  so, 
thick  plants  of  seedling  Nettles  will  come  up  fast  and 
necessitate  the  use  of  the  hoe  to  destroy  them.  Probably 
a  dressing  of  gas  lime,  a  bushel  to  the  rod,  strewn  over  the 
ground  would  also  help  to  kill  fie  ro  its  alter  the  tips 
were  cut  down. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  June  igth,  1909. 


TWO   OF  THE   NEWER  CLEMATISES 

(Drawn   in  the  Royal  Gardens.   Kew.) 


r.iiii^on  1^-  /\<<(r-is,  I. til.    l-'rtntevs,  Ltnuipn,  S.E. 


( 


^!^ 


GARDEN. 


-^y 


No.  1962.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


June  26,  1909. 


CONTBNTS, 


The  Prospects  of 
THE    Rose    Season 

OF  1909       

Forthcoming  eventa  . . 

Notes  or  thb  Wkbk 

The  Gakben  Flower 

Show       

National  Sweet  Pea 
Society's  outings  . . 

COKRSSFONBENOE 

A  cure  for  slugs 
Ants  and  Koses 

Bryony       

The  Butterfly  Tufted 

Pansy      

Irish  notes     

Fruit  Gakdkn 

Fruit  notes       . .     . . 
Trees  and  Shrubs 
Wistaria     multijuga 

alba 

Three  good  shrubs  . . 
A  new  hardy  flower- 
ing shrub       . .     . . 
Kitchen  Gakden 
The  Custard  Marrow 
for    summer     and 
autumn  use   . . 
Oreenhouss 
Summer     treatment 
of  Hippeastrums  . . 
Lselio  -  Cattleya 
Kikado 


Greenhouse 

Gardenias 313 

Flower  Garden 
The  Tree  Pteoniea    . .    313 
The  hardy  Primulas      313 
The  Tree  Mallows   . .    314 
Myddelton  House :  Its 
garden  and   its  gar- 
dener     315 

Gardeninq  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        316 

Eaising  Tufted  and 
other  Pansies  from 

seed 316 

Brompton  Stocks  and 
their  culture  . .     . .    317 

THB  Town  Garden  ..    317 

GARDENINa  OF  THE  WEEK 

For  the  South  and 
South  Midlands    ..    318 

For  the  North  and 
North  Midlands  ..    318 

Answers    to    Corre- 
spondents 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  313 

Trees  and  shrubs    . .  319 

Hose  garden      . .     . .  319 

Greenhouse       ..     ..  319 

Fruit  garden     . .     . .  319 

Miscellaneous  ..     ..  320 


313  '  Societies 


320 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

The  Butterfly  Viola  or  Tufted  Pansy      311 

The  new  Lselio-Cattleya  Mikado       313 

Lavatera  rosea  splendens 314 

In  the  garden  of  Myddelton  House,  Knfleld 315 

Raising  Tufted  and  other  Pansies  from  seed       . .    316,  317 


EDITORIALi    NOTICBS. 

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relating  to  matters  upon  ahieh  they  wish  advice  from 
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the  '^Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature^  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
wiU  kindiy  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
AU  communications  must  be  written  dearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THE 
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The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
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Offlces:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C.         I 


THE    PROSPECTS    OF    THE 
ROSE    SEASON    OF    1909. 

THE  vicissitudes  of  the  season  through 
which  we  have  passed  have  been  so 
marked,  the  changes  in  temperature 
that  have  been  experienced  so 
extreme — hard  hit  by  severe  frosts, 
with  no  moisture  in  the  soil  to  counteract  the 
scorching  sun  and  searching  winds  of  May — and 
the  buds  eaten  by  pests  so  innumerable  that  one 
of  my  esteemed  correspondents,  who  should  be  a 
high  authority  on  the  subject,  informs  me  that 
the  caterpillar  plague  in  Egypt  of  old  time  was 
nothing  to  it.  Surely  never  was  there  such  a 
season  as  the  first  five  months  of  1909  !  Frosts, 
lack  of  rain,  wind,  heat,  grubs,  beetles  and 
caterpillars  all  played  their  part  in  no  half- 
hearted fashion,  so  that  not  a  few  began  to 
despair  of  any  Roses  worthy  of  the  name  in  the 
summer  of  1909  ;  but  they  under-estimated  the 
enormous  recuperative  power  in  a  Rose  plant. 
A  few  days'  genial  weather,  with  alternate 
showers  and  sunshine,  and  shoots  seem  to  spring 
into  being ;  and  what  was  a  miserable,  half- 
starved,  nearly  leafless  plant  one  week,  the  next 
was  strong  and  healthy,  with  promise  of,  shall  I 
say,  a  "medal  bloom." 

After  the  pruning,  which  was  done  for  most 
of  us  by  frost — the  advocates  of  light  pruning 
must  have  found  their  favourite  occupation  of 
clipping  the  ends  gone  this  year — plants  broke 
slowly,  but  by  the  end  of  April  were  generally 
looking  well ;  then  came  May  with  cold  nights 
and  cold  winds,  with  almost  perpetual  sunshine. 
We  had  an  average  of  over  ten  hours  per  day 
right  through  the  month  in  my  district,  so  that 
the  foliage  dried  up  and  shrivelled  and  the 
plants  refused  to  grow.  To  add  to  our  dis- 
comfort came  the  caterpillar  and  maggot  in  far 
greater  numbers  than  usual.  The  old  theory 
that  a  hard  winter  means  less  pests  is  exploded. 
I  am  inclined  to  think  that  in  hard  winters  the 
parents  remain  dormant  longer  and  are  not 
brought  out  at  unseasonable  times,  as  they 
would  be  by  a  spell  of  mild  weather,  when  the 
next  frost  does  for  them.  At  any  rate,  be  the 
reason  what  it  may,  there  they  were  on  every 
shoot,  two  and  three  on  a  leaf  sometimes,  and 
as  you  killed  them  so  others  cheerfully  took 
their  places,  for  the  whole  tree  had  to  be  gone 
over  next  day,  and  day  by  day  for  a  much 
longer  period  than  usual.  That  brings  us  to 
June.  For  the  first  few  days  plants  refused  to 
grow  with  that  sturdy  vigour  we  expect  of  them 
when  they  have  had  all  the  oare  we  can  bestow  ; 
but  during  the  last  fortnight  I  can  see  a  great 
change,  and  I  am  now  beginning  to  hope  for  great 
things  from  1909.    Plants,  shoots,  foliage  and  buds 


are  not  the  size  they  were  when  I  was  writing  an 
article  on  this  same  subject  last  year.  I  never 
remember  a  finer  promise  than  June,  1908,  gave 
us,  spoilt,  it  will  be  remembered,  by  the  tropical 
heat  of  the  last  days  of  the  month  and  the 
first  few  days  of  July,  culminating  in  the  hottest 
day  of  the  year  for  the  National  Rose  Society's 
show.  That  can  hardly  be  expected  two  years 
running.  Let  us  hope,  therefore,  that  if  the 
promise  is  not  quite  so  rosy  the  performance 
will  be  finer,  and  that  when  the  public  wend 
their  way  home  on  July  2  they  will  have 
witnessed  the  finest  show  ever  held  by  the 
National  Rose  Society.  I  do  not  consider  that 
at  all  impossible  nor  even  improbable  ;  the 
schedule  is  certainly  better  than  ever,  the  com- 
mittee and  the  secretary  have  worked  hard  to 
make  the  show  a  success  from  every  point  of 
view — even  that  sore  point  with  some,  namely, 
the  catering,  has  had  special  oare  and  attention — 
and  steps  have  been  taken  to  deserve  success 
where  success  is  seemingly  so  hard  to  obtain. 

It  would  be  presumptuous — nay,  folly — on  my 
part  to  say  anything  about  the  prospects  of  the 
Rose  season  for  1909,  more  particularly  with 
reference  to  the  National  Rose  Society's  great 
show  at  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens  on  July  2, 
judging  only  from  my  own  garden  and  such 
gardens  as  I  have  seen.  I  have,  therefore, 
asked  the  leading  Rose-growers  throughout  the 
country,  both  amateur  and  the  trade,  to  let  me 
have  their  opinion,  and  I  have  taken  the  liberty 
of  giving  extracts  from  their  letters.  For  the 
sake  of  convenience  I  have  grouped  them  into 
districts,  and  I  will  start  with 

COLCHESTEB. 

All  the  growers  at  Colchester  are  or  have 
been  champions.  Why  is  it  ?  Their  soil  ?  None 
of  them  grow  on  similar  soil,  one  heavy,  another 
light,  a  third  medium.  No,  I  think  it  must  be 
the  air ;  but  it  is  the  difference  of  soil  that  I 
think  accounts  for  the  fact  that  the  championship 
changes  hands  so  often — one  likes  rain,  another 
heat,  and  so  on.  My  correspondents  write  me 
as  follows  : 

(a)  Roses  will  be  both  good  and  plentiful  by 
July  2  ;  the  plants  are  very  strong  and  clean,  and 
fine  flowers  of  the  early  varieties  have  already  been 
out  from  cut-back  plants  planted  last  November ; 
the  two  and  three  year  old  cut-backs  are  later. 
Maidens  will  vary  considerably  in  period  of 
flowering ;  [plants  of  the  same  variety  bear  weeks 
apart.  The  rain  has  caused  a  marvellous 
recovery  from  the  winter  and  spring  frosts.  The 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  late.  Garden  Roses 
promise  well. 

(6)  Roses  here  promise  a  season  neither  early 
nor  late.  The  plants  look  healthy.  Hybrid  Tea 
buds  promising,  but  backward.     Maiden  Hybrid 


310 


THE    GARDEN. 


|JUNE  26,  1909. 


Perpetuals  look  well  ;  buds  have  formed  more 
freely  than  usual,  and  it  is  only  necessary  to 
have  warm  weather  to  bring  these  on  in  time  ; 
but  we  fear  many  of  the  dark  varieties  will  not 
be  fully  out  by  the  time  of  the  National  Rose 
Society's  show. 

(f)  At  the  moment  we  are  about  a  fortnight 
later  than  last  year,  but  plants  and  buds  look 
very  promising  all  the  same,  especially  Hybrid 
Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals.  Teas  are  rather 
weak,  which  is  not  to  be  wondered  at.  There 
should  be  plenty  of  all  sections  of  Roses  for  the 
National  Rose  Society's  show. 

(d)  Everything  much  improved — even  the  Teas 
begin  to  look  quite  promising.  I  think,  after 
all,  the  date  will  suit  us  here.  I  was  afraid  at 
one  time  it  was  too  early. 

HiTCHIN. 

(a)  With  me  the  season  is  about  an  average 
one  as  to  date.  My  plants  look  well  on  the 
whole,  but  were  hit  by  frost  on  May  16  ;  but  we 
have  registered  3  inches  of  rain  this  month 
already  as  against  OSO  during  the  whole  of  June, 
1908,  and  with  warm  weather  they  should  come 
on  fast.  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  both  cut-backs  and 
maidens,  look  best  here. 

(b)  Maiden  Hybrid  Teas  are  very  good  ;  Teas 
at  present  look  very  thin  and  spindly,  and  my 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  not  up  to  the  usual.  A 
good  many  blind  shoots,  especially  on  out-backs. 
We  have  had  a  lot  of  rain  and  now  want  sunshine ; 
if  we  get  it  Roses  will  be  in  time  for  the  National 
Rose  Society's  show. 

(c)  Rose  prospects  uncertain  ;  not  so  good  nor 
so  early  as  last  year,  but  some  warm  sun  right 
away  will  speedily  alter  matters. 

Canterbury. 

(a)  An  average  season,  rather  inclining  to  late. 
The  maidens  are  looking  well  and  better  than  the 
cut-backs,  but  the  late  rains  will  improve  matters 
all  round. 

(h)  I  think,  on  the  whole,  early.  Hard  pruning 
necessitated  by  the  frost  has  produced  excellent 
growth  on  most  plants.  J.  B.  Clark  looks  well 
and  very  promising  ;  but  Frau  Karl  Drusohki 
seems  exceptionally  late  and  will  have  to  hurry 
up  to  be  in  time  for  the  National  Rose  Society's 
show.  Teas  look  remarkably  well,  notwith- 
standing the  hard  time  they  had  of  it.  All  round 
I  am  satisfied  with  the  outlook. 

Surrey. 

(a)  Here,  I  think,  we  are  early  ;  not  quite  so 
forward  as  last  season  perhaps.  Maidens  are 
coming  on  well  and  look  better  than  usual  ; 
certainly  better  than  my  cut-backs,  which  is 
unfortunate,  as  I  have  but  few  of  the  former. 
I  think  you  may  take  it  for  granted  that  there 
will  be  plenty  of  Roses  for  July  2  of  excellent 
quality,  with  a  slight  reservation  as  to  Teas. 
Garden  Roses,  except  climbers,  promise  well. 

(b)  Fairly  early,  especially  if  we  have  plenty 
of  sun.  Plants  have  stood  still  longer  than  I 
care  about,  and  I  am  afraid  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
will  suflfer.  Hybrid  Teas  are  very  promising. 
Garden  Roses  will  be  very  good. 

(c)  About  right  for  July  2.  Nothing  to  grumble 
at ;  plants  are  growing  nicely  and  look  very 
well.     Hybrid  Teas  best,  as  usual. 

(d)  Quite  satisfied  with  appearances  now.  I 
think  we  can  call  the  season  early,  but  not 
remarkably  so.  Druschkis,  for  instance,  are 
distinctly  late.  My  Teas  are  going  to  be  some 
good  after  all.  The  date  should  suit  us  very 
well. 

Sussex. 

(a)  My  Roses  look  very  well  indeed ;  foliage 
clean  and  healthy,  but  we  want  sun. 

(i)  My  Teas  are  not  up  to  my  usual  standard  ; 
Hybrid  Teas  have  never  looked  so  well ;  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  are  rather  late,  but  should  be  just 
right  for  July  2. 

(c)  Season  early — prospects  good  —  feature. 
Teas.  Maidens  vary  considerably  ;  out-backs  are 
recovering  from  the  wind  and  frosts  of  May. 


West  of  England. 

(a)  Cut-back  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  looking 
wonderfully  well,  and  will  be  out  by  July  2  if  the 
weather  is  seasonable.  Other  Roses  are  late  and 
suffering  from  May  frosts,  but  the  new  growths 
promise  well  and  are  wonderfully  healthy. 

(b)  Badly  cut  by  late  spring  frosts,  not  yet 
recovered,  so  prospects  not  of  the  brightest. 

(c)  Roses  have  made  good  clean  growth 
and  are  very  promising.  Less  green  fly  and 
grub  than  usual.  We  oensider  the  season  rather 
early,  but  as  far  as  the  South  and  West  of 
England  is  concerned  July  2  should  find  all 
sections  well  represented. 

(d)  Our  Roses  never  leoked  better.  The  cool 
weather  has  retarded  the  flowering,  or  they 
would  have  been  early  ;  all  are  healthy  and  free 
from  blight.     At  our  best  fiist  week  in  July. 

North  or  the  Thames,  Middlesex. 

(a)  Roses  have  improved  considerably  this 
month.  Hybrid  Teas  especially  ;  they  are  early. 
Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  late  with  us,  but 
promise  to  be  in  by  July  2. 

(6)  Roses  are  backward  this  year  in  this 
district  (Hendon),  but  hope  to  be  just  right  for 
.July  2.  We  have  had  very  few  killed  or  hurt 
even  by  the  frosts. 

(c)  On  the  whole  Roses  are  looking  very  well. 
Hybrid  Teas  are  looking  better  than  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  ;  too  many  buds  of  the  latter  are 
showing  colour  too  soon — a  bad  sign.  Maidens 
are  late  ;  many  too  late  for  July  2.  The  feature 
of  the  season  has  been  the  caterpillar. 

[d)  Season  decidedly  late  andnot  too  promising. 
A  good  many  blind  shoots,  especially  Mildred 
Grant ;  Hybrid  Teas  fair.  Dean  Hole  is  delicate 
here  and  has  suffered  badly.  On  the  whole  the 
trees  have  picked  up  wonderfully  this  last 
fortnight,  maidens  looking  exceptionally  well. 
In  this  district  I  should  say  it  will  be  a  Hybrid 
Perpetual  year. 

Berkhamsted. 

(a)  Notwithstanding  severe  winter  and  spring 
frosts  and  the  cold  days  and  slight  night  frosts 
of  the  present  summer  month,  my  Roses  are,  at 
the  time  of  writing,  looking  remarkably  clean 
and  healthy. 

Judging  by  the  dates  of  flowering  of  the  earlier 
varieties,  this  year,  as  compared  with  other 
years,  is  neither  late  nor  early.  With  a  con- 
tinuance of  the  warmer  weather  of  the  last  few 
days,  the  "  National "  promises  to  be  an  excep- 
tionally large  and  beautiful  show. 

The  Midlands. 

(a)  Severely  cut  by  spring  frosts,  we  are  late  ; 
but  growth  is  now  rapid,  and  if  we  have  plenty 
of  sun  should  be  able  to  show  on  July  2,  early  date 
though  it  is.  Hybrid  Teas  and  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals are  good.     Teas  poor. 

(b)  Our  prospect  of  showing  at  the  "National" 
is  not  brilliant.  Mid-May  frost  hit  us  hard,  and 
plants  were  cut  down  to  the  base.  Growth  is 
now  starting,  but  we  are  nearly  a  month  late. 

North. 

Our  Roses  look  splendid,  never  better.  Season 
is  early  for  us,  and  plants  should  be  in  flower  by 
July  2.  Hybrid  Teas  are,  as  usual,  looking 
better  than  the  other  two  classes,  but  our  Teas 
are  striotly  limited.  Garden  Roses  premise 
particularly  well,  and  should  be  in  full  flower  for 
the  "  National  "  on  July  2. 

I  close  this  article  by  expressing  my  sincere 
thanks  to  all  those  who  have  assisted  me  in 
compiling  it. 

Pxirhy.  Herbert  E.  Molyneux. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

June  28. — Isle  of  Wight  Rose  Society. 

June  29. — Southampton  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  Rose  Show  (two  days). 

June  30. — Richmond  Horticultural  Society's 
Rose  Show. 

July  2. — National  Rose  Society's  Metropolitan 
Exhibition,  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's 
Park. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

"The   Qapden"    Flower   Show.— 

This  will  take  place  en  July  28  next,  as  recorded 
in  our  advertisement  columns.  We  may  remind 
our  readers  of  the  necessity  of  collecting  the 
coupons.  The  display  of  flowers  promises  to 
be  of  exceptional  interest  and  beauty.  In  the 
advertisement  pages  we  are  printing  the  entry 
forms,  which  we  hope  all  intending  exhibitors 
will  carefully  read,  fill  up  and  return  as  soon  as 
possible,  and  not  wait  until  the  last  day  allowed. 

National    Sweet    Pea    Socletj^'s 

outing's, — As  usual,  two  outings  have  been 
arranged  for  the  members  of  the  above  society. 
The  first  will  take  place  on  Friday,  July  9,  when 
the  trials  at  Messrs.  Cooper,  Taber  and  Co.s 
grounds  at  Witham,  Mr.  William  Deal's  grounds 
at  Kelvedon,  and  Messrs.  E.  W.  King  and  Co. 'a 
seed  farms  at  Coggeshall  will  be  inspected.  On 
Friday,  July  16,  a  visit  will  be  paid  to  the 
University  College  Gardens,  Reading,  for  the 
purpose  of  inspecting  the  soeiety's  official  trials 
of  Sweet  Peas.  Any  member  who  wishes  to  be 
present  at  either  or  both  of  the  outings  must 
notify  the  hon.  secretary  to  that  effect  on  or 
before  July  1. 

The  late  firm  of  Hugh  Low  and 
Co. — In  reference  to  the  paragraph  which 
appeared  on  page  286  of  our  issue  of  the  12th 
inst.  there  seems  to  have  been  a  little  misunder- 
standing about  the  dissolution  of  the  partner- 
ship. In  the  paragraph  above  referred  to  we 
did  not  state  that  Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co. 
were  the  successors  of  the  old  firm,  although 
some  have  apparently  taken  it  to  mean  such. 
We  have  since  received  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Edward  V.  Low,  who,  we  understand,  has 
acquired  a  portion  of  the  Orchid  stock  of  the 
late  firm  and  started  in  business  as  an  Orchid 
specialist  at  Vale  Bridge  Nursery,  Hayward's 
Heath.  Mr.  Stuart  H.  Low,  we  understand, 
has  purchased  the  larger  portion  of  the  Orchid 
stock  and  also  the  other  general  stock  of  the  late 
firm.  The  full  terms  of  the  dissolution  will  be 
seen  announced  in  our  advertisement  columns. 

The  iTPeat  Rose  show  of  the  year. 

In  directing  attention  to  the  exhibition  of  the 
National  Rose  Society,  which  will  be  held  in  the 
beautiful  gardens  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Society, 
Regent's  Park,  on  Friday,  July  2,  it  may  be 
interesting  to  give  a  few  particulars  as  to  the 
prospects  of  the  coming  Rose  season.  From 
reports  which  have  been  received  from  all  parts 
of  the  southern  half  of  England,  the  genera) 
consensus  of  opinion  among  Rose-growers  appears 
to  be  that,  notwithstanding  the  trying  weather 
experienced  during  both  the  winter  and  spring, 
and  also  throughout  the  first  half  of  the  present 
month,  there  is  likely  to  be  an  unusually  large 
and  fine  display  of  Rose  blooms  at  "  The 
National,"  as  it  is  familiarly  styled  by 
exhibitors,  this  year.  The  only  thing  that  is 
now  wanted  to  ensure  its  complete  success  is  a 
continuance  of  the  moderately  warm  summer 
weather  we  are  now  delighting  in.  Early  in  the 
month  the  prospects  certainly  looked  very 
gloomy,  but,  as  Mr.  IXombrain  used  to  comfort 
me  by  saying  "  when  the  time  of  Roses  has 
come  there  is  sure  to  be  plenty  of  Roses." — 
Edward  Mawxey,  Hon.  Secretary,  National 
Rose  Society. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  reaponsibla  for  the   opiniont 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

APtiflcial  manures.— I  have  pleasure 
in  replying  to  "A.  W.  M."  that  for  nearly  six 
years  I  have  entirely  dispensed  with  the  use  of 
farmyard  manure,  using  only  spent  Hops  with  the 
addition  of  superphosphate  of  lime  and  sulphate 
of  potash.  It  has  proved  successful,  both  od 
heavy  clay  soil  and  in  my  present  garden,  which 
is  very  light  soil. — A  User  of  Spent  Hops. 


Junk  26,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


311 


A  cure  for  slugs.  —  Iq  answer  to 
"  Scott's  "  enquiry  in  The  Garden  of  June  12,  I 
get  the  powdered  alum  from  the  chemist,  and  if 
(as  is  sometimes  the  ease)  there  are  some  hard 
lumps,  I  pound  it  and  put  it  in  a  flour  dredger 
and  sprinkle  it  round  (not  over,  if  I  can  help  it) 
the  seedlings,  and  no  slug  will  pass  the  ring  of 
alum.  For  small  borders  I  sprinkle  it  all  over 
the  border  before  planting  anything,  and  it  kills 
all  the  slugs.  I  may  add  that  the  alum  does  not 
hurt  the  leaves  of  the  plants,  but  it  dries  into 
white  patches,  so  I  avoid  putting  it  on  the  leaves 
as  far  as  possible. — Orange,  Slough. 

Ants  and  Roses. — The  interesting  note 
on  Roses  by  "P.  M.  A.,"  which  appeared  on 
page  299,  is  interesting,  as  it  records  the  fact  of 
actual  damage  being  done  to  vegetation  by  ants. 
I  can  fully  support  his  statement,  having  had 
buds  served  in  a  similar  way  this  year.  My 
garden  is  simply  teeming  with  these  pests,  and 
in  the  Onion  and  Carrot  beds  they  have  cleared 
off  plants  where  the  latter  were  apparently  in 
their  way ;  I  mean  they  gnawed  off  the  young 
seedlings  as  they  came  thiough  the  ground. 
Again,  where  a  nest  exists,  vegetation  apparently 
cannot  or  is  not  allowed  to  grow.  I  think  the 
sooner  the  ant  is  regarded  as  a  dangerous  foe  of 
the  gardener  the  better. — An  Essex  Grower. 

Bryony. — With  reference  to  Mrs.  Curgwen's 
note,  may  I  remind  your  readers  that  Black 
Bryony  is  dioecious  (male  and  female  separate 
plants),  and  unless  you  buy  many  plants  you  may 
get  only  male.  When  the  berries  from  the  hedges 
have  decorated  your  room  and  are  beginning  to 
fall  about,  bury  the  long  bunches,  as  they  are, 
under  a  fence,  some  inches  deep,  and  they  will 
come  up  in  a  mass  the  next  spring.  The  first 
two  years  you  can  move  them  anywhere,  and 
the  fourth  year  they  will  run  into  trees  and 
hang  down  their  lovely  berries.  I  have  raised 
quantities  in  this  way.  They  sometimes  suffer 
for  a  time  from  frost  or  wet.  Thus  last  year  a 
fine  mass,  which  had  berried  some  years,  did  not 
come  up  at  all,  but  this  year  is  already  10  feet 
high  along  the  line  ;  the  top  tubers  had  rotted, 
but  those  below  came  up.  I  have  had  seeds  comi 
up  only  the  second  year.  The  tubers  in  the 
hedges  are  too  deep  and  too  large  to  move. — 
J.  R.  D. 

The    Butterfly  Tufted    Pansy.— 

Tufted  Pansies,  or  Violas,  of  the  true  tufted  and 
continuous-blooming  habit  are  always  valuable, 
and  for  long  continuance  of  bloom  the  Butterfly 
Tufted  Pansy,  Viola  cornuta  Papilio,  is  not 
surpassed,  although  its  flowers  are  too  informal 
in  shape  for  those  who  are  strict  in  the  matter 
of  form.  Yet  many  of  us  will  consider  that  in 
this  informality  lies  one  of  the  beauties  of  the 
flower.  It  is  of  such  a  shape  that  it  reminds  one 
of  a  butterfly,  and  hence  the  name  of  Papilio  has 
been  given  to  it  by  its  raisers — a  German  firm,  if 
I  recollect  rightly.  The  general  effect  of  the 
flowers  of  the  plant  is  like  that  which  would  be 
presented  by  one  on  which  a  number  of  blue 
butterflies  were  about  to  alight,  the  ground 
colour  being  a  good  blue,  with  a  little  white  and 
some  darker  markings.  The  blossoms  are  very 
numerous,  and  are  produced  for  many  months  in 
succession.  They  are,  indeed,  so  continuously 
yielded  that,  save  in  very  severe  winters,  there 
are  some  blooms  on  the  plants  at  any  time 
throughout  the  year.  This  Viola  is  easily  raised 
from  seeds,  and  comes  remarkably  true  in  form 
and  colour.  There  are,  however,  signs  of  greater 
sportiveness  in  these  respects,  and  some  so-called 
improved  forms  and  others  with  different  colours 
are  now  on  the  market.  The  more  formally  shaped 
of  these  are  no  gain  to  us  for  garden  purposes, 
and  those  with  different  colours  from  those  of 
the  type  will  require  to  be  good  indeed  to 
supersede  the  original  Viola  Papilio.  Seeds  can 
be  sown  any  time  during  the  summer  either  in 
the  open  or  under  glass,  and  in  many  gardens 
self-sown  seedlings  EHaound  and  are  available  for 
transplanting  to  where  they  are  to  bloom. — 
S.  Arnott,  Dumfries. 


IRISH     NOTES. 

Bog    Bed    at    Glasnbvin. 

A   T    the    present    time    the    bog    bed    at 
/\  Glasnevin  stands  out  as  one  of  the 

/  %  brightest  corners  of  the  garden. 
/  \  Calthas,  Primulas  and  TroUius  are 
y  ^  the  leading  features  in  the  colour 
display.  Caltha  polypetala  from 
Asia  Minor  seems  to  flower  better  when  fully 
established ;  this  year  it  is  bearing  a  dozen 
strong  flowering  stems.  But  some  of  the  newer 
kinds  of  TroUius,  obtained  from  Mr.  T.  Smith 
of  Newry,  are  far  brighter  than  the  Calthas. 
Here,  given  a  rich  soil  and  never  suffering  from 
want  of  moisture  at  the  root,  they  seem  quite  at 
home,  making  fine  branching  flower-stems  2  feet 
to  2i  feet  in  height.  Freedom  has  large  clear 
yellow  flowers,  while  Goldsmith  is  very  strong 
and  vigorous,  bearing  deep  yellow  flowers  with 
orange  stamens.  TroUius  Orangeman  is  one  of 
the  best,  a  deep  rich  orange  and  semi-double,  an 
advance  on  the  Orange  Globe.  T.  Smith  is  said 
to  be  the  largest  yellow-flowered  TroUius, 
and  Prince  of  Orange  is  its  orange-coloured 
counterpart. 


distinct,  being  a  deep  shade  of  lavender  with 
purple  marking  and  a  yellow  eye.  The  Mont 
Cenis  Viola  (V.  cenisia)  is  more  close  and  com- 
pact, producing  all  its  deep  purple  flowers  at 
once  and  so  freely  that  it  quite  hides  the  foliage. 
One  does  not  see  Veronica  filiformis  too  often. 
It  is  a  native  of  Asia  Minor  and  an  elegant  little 
plant  about  9  inches  high,  a  free  grower  and 
easily  propagated  by  cuttings.  The  trailing 
stems  are  covered  with  fine  thread-like  leaves 
and  bear  long  racemes  of  white  flowers  beautifully 
veined  with  purple.  From  the  same  country 
comes  V.  cinerea,  its  deep  blue  flowers  being 
very  telling  against  its  silvery  foliage.  It 
grows  about  6  inches  high,  but  unfortunately 
requires  the  protection  of  a  sheet  of  glass  through 
the  winter. 

Two  silvery  leaved  dwarf  Milfoils  from  Siinder- 
mann  have  proved  quite  hardy ;  Achillea  Kellereri 
has  long,  narrow  leaves,  beautifully  serrated,  and 
compact  heads  of  white  flowers  produced  in 
summer  and  autumn,  and  A.  Wilgethis  produces 
loose  heads  of  white  flowers.  The  Lungworts 
are  a  family  which  are  not  generally  admissible  to 
the  rock  garden  ;  but  there  is  a  pleasing  purity 
about  the  flowers  of  P.  arvernense  alba  which, 
with  its  compact,  dwarf  habit,  makes  it  quite  a 


THE  BUTTERFLY  VIOLA   OR  TDFTED   PANSY  IN   A  SCOTTISH  GARDEN. 


Near  to  the  bog  bed,  on  higher  ground,  is  a 
glorious  plant  of  the  rare  Rhododendron 
yunnanense,  one  of  Abbe  Delavay's  discoveries. 
The  Glasnevin  plant  is  5  feet  high  by  4  feet 
through,  and  is  one  mass  of  flower — scarcely  a 
leaf  can  be  seen  ;  it  seems  an  exceptionally  free- 
flowering  form,  and  differs  in  some  respects  from 
the  type.  The  type  has  a  pinky  white  corolla 
dotted  with  blood  red  spots  and  red  anthers ; 
the  Glasnevin  plant  has  a  creamy  white  corolla, 
li  inches  across,  spotted  with  yellow  and  yellow 
anthers. 

The  Chinese  Xanthoceras  sorbifolia  is  full  of 
flower  this  year.  The  racemes  are  very  close 
and  compact.  On  opening  the  flowers  are  white, 
with  a  lemon  base,  changing  to  red  as  the  flowers 
get  older.  The  generic  name  is  derived  from 
four  large  yellow,  horn-like  nectaries  found 
between  the  petals.  At  Glasnevin  the  plant  is 
represented  by  a  fine  specimen  12  feet  high  by 
14  feet  through.  The  rook  garden  is  also  looking 
quite  bright,  and  several  uncommon  plants  may 
be  seen. 

Viola  bosniaca  is  a  gem  and  flowers  con- 
tinuously. It  is  thriving  in  both  a  sunny  place 
and  a  partially  shaded  one.     In  colour  it  is  quite 


desirable  plant.     The  type  is  also  the  beat  blue 
in  the  family. 

The  new  Chinese  Cotoneaster  adpressa  should  be 
planted  so  that  it  can  trail  downwards  on  a  fair- 
sized  stone.  Here  it  has  formed  a  pretty  network 
of  branches  closely  pressed  to  the  stone.  These 
branches  are  now  studded  with  small  red  flowers. 
In  the  autumn  the  leaves  change  to  crimson 
before  falling.  Geum  rhseticum  is  an  interesting 
and  pretty  plant,  supposed  to  be  a  natural 
hybrid  of  G.  montanum  and  G.  reptans,  found 
on  Monte  Rosa.  The  golden  yellow  flowers  are 
bright  and  early,  followed  by  plumed  heads  of 
seeds  similar  to  those  of  the  Pulsatilla.  Geum 
rivale  Leonard's  variety  has  a  large  and  more 
open  flower  than  the  type,  of  quite  a  unique 
colour,  resembling  crushed  strawberry.  Geum 
bulgaricum,  which  looked  so  promising  from  its 
large,  bold  foliage,  has  a  poor  miserable  flower  of 
a  washy  yellow.  Calandrinia  leana  from  Cali- 
fornia is  by  no  means  common  ;  it  was  presented 
to  the  gardens  by  Mr.  Gumbleton,  and  is  now 
bearing  pretty  flesh-coloured  flowers  veined  with 
a  deeper  pink.  Many  more  plants  of  interest 
are  to  be  seen,  but  lack  of  space  will  not  allow 
me  to  mention  these.  C.  F.  Ball. 


312 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[June  26,  1909. 


THE    FRUIT     GARDEN, 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

WATERING  AND  FEEDING 
STRAWBERRIES.  —  When 
the  Strawberries  are  swelling 
heavy  crops  of  fruit,  it  is  some- 
thing to  their  disadvantage 
that  the  weather  is  often  ex- 
tremely dry,  and  the  result 
is  that  the  fruits  do  not  attain  to  as  large  a 
size  as  they  would  do  if  more  food  were  avail- 
able for  the  roots.  In  the  majority  of  instances 
it  is  excellent  practice  to  compensate  for  this  by 
heavy  soakings  with  clear  water  and,  in  the 
possible  event  of  there  being  a  shortage  of  food 
in  the  soil,  by  the  application  of  weak  liquid 
manure.  If  it  is  decided  to  give  either  or  both 
of  these  things,  the  grower  must  draw  back  the 
mulching  material  prior  to  commencing,  and 
when  the  water  and  liquid  manure  have  been 
given  and  the  surface  has  dried  a  little  the 
mulch  is  replaced.  It  will  be  imperative  to  keep 
the  water  away  from  the  fruits  and  also,  of 
course,  the  liquid  manure,  and  in  no  circum- 
stances whatever  must  the  latter  be  strong. 

Layering  Str-^wberries — The  general  rule 
in  British  gardens  is  to  maintain  a  cycle  of  three 
in  the  Strawberry  plantation,  so  that  each 
season  we  have  one,  two  and  three  year  old 
plants  in  crop,  the  latter  being  grubbed  as  soon 
as  the  whole  of  the  fruit  has  been  harvested. 
It  is  true  that  in  some  gardens,  and  with  some 
varieties,  it  is  found  far  more  profitable  to  rely 
exclusively  upon  one  year  old  plants,  while  in 
other  lands  the  plants  become  poor  after  they 
have  borne  two  crops.  These,  however,  are  the 
exceptions,  since  we  expect  to  get  splendid 
fruits  and  grand  stock  from  one  year  old  plants, 
rather  heavier  crops  of  equally  fine  fruits  from 
those  two  years  old,  and  the  heaviest  crops  of 
all  from  those  three  years  old.  In  the  first  and 
second  seasons  in  normal  soils  the  quality  and 
size  of  the  fruits  are  about  equal,  but  in  the 
third  year,  although  we  secure  the  bulk,  the 
fruits,  as  a  rule,  fall  a  little  in  size.  There  have 
been  many  instances  of  plantations  remaining 
profitable  after  three  years,  but,  generally 
speaking,  it  is  wise  to  stop  at  that  age. 

Selecting  Stock  Plants.  —  There  is  no 
doubt  that  where  it  is  possible  to  secure  all  the 
necessary  runners  from  plants  that  have  not 
carried  a  crop  they  will  yield  the  earliest  and  finest 
plants.  At  the  same  time,  it  should  be  regarded 
as  essential  that  the  stock  plants  have  produced 
flowers,  as  they  will  thus  have  proved  their 
capacity  to  fruit  had  they  been  allowed  to  do  so. 
There  are  some  growers  who  assert  that  it  is 
Immaterial  whether  the  runners  are  taken  from 
barren  or  fruitful  plants;  but  the  consensus  of 
opinion  is  in  favour  of  the  latter,  as  barren 
parents  have  been  proved  over  and  over  again  to 
throw  barren  progeny.  Desirable  as  one  year  old 
unfruited  plants  are  for  purposes  of  propagation, 
it  must  not  be  thought  that  they  are  imperative 
to  success  ;  this  is  by  no  means  the  case. 

Methods  of  Propagation. — There  are  three 
distinct  methods  of  laying  down  the  runners, 
and  each  grower  will  choose  the  most  convenient 
for  himself.  The  most  popular  system  is  to  peg 
down  into  the  soil  in  the  alleys,  and  this  is  good 
provided  that  special  compost  is  incorporated 
with  the  ordinary  soil ;  the  second  system  is  to 
set  the  plantlets  down  on  the  surface  of  the 
soil  in  small  pots,  which  are  sunk  practically  to 
their  rims  to  reduce  the  necessity  for  watering  ; 
and  the  third  system  is  to  peg  down  on  the 
surface  of  inverted  squares  of  turf  plunged  grass 
side  downwards  in  the  soil.  A  fourth  system 
which  is  occasionally  adopted  is  to  peg  down 
into  soil  in  6-inch  pots  ;  but  the  watering  will 
have  to  be  done  with  the  most  extreme  care  in 
this  case,  or  the  soil  will  be  soured  before  roots 
are  working  freely  in  it,  and  the  result  will  be 
failure.  Fruit-urower. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


WISTARIA  MULTIJUGA  ALBA. 

*    S  a  companion  plant  for  the  well-known 
J\  Wistaria   chinensis  no   more  appro- 

/  \  priate  subject  could  be  chosen  than 
/  \  this,  while  for  covering  the  roof  of  a 
£  ^  pergola  it  would  be  difficult  to  think 
of  a  better  climber.  Although  it  has 
not  the  long  inflorescences  of  W.  multijuga,  it 
possesses  its  free-fiowering  peculiarities,  and 
the  pendulous  racemes,  6  inches  to  9  inches  in 
length,  of  white  flowers  are  extremely  beautiful. 
W.  multijuga  is  a  Chinese  species,  and  the  white 
variety  is  also  of  Chinese  origin.  It  can  be  pro- 
pagated by  layers  or  it  may  be  grafted  on  to 
roots  of  W.  chinensis.  At  Kew  it  may  be  seen 
in  several  parts  of  the  gardens,  fine  beds  of  it 
existing  near  the  Succulent  House  and  the  Palm 
House.  The  plants  in  these  beds  are  supported 
by  iron  stakes,  and  the  side  branches  are  kept 
spurred  back.  On  the  spurs  that  are  formed 
in  this  manner  flowers  are  borne  with  great 
freedom.  In  one  case  branches  from  plants 
growing  near  the  outside  of  the  bed  have  been 
carried  to  a  higher  stake  in  the  centre,  and  from 
these  branches  the  full  beauty  of  the  pendulous 
racemes  can  be  noticed.  Grown  on  a  pergola, 
this  plant  and  the  better  known  W.  chinensis 
are  even  more  beautiful  than  when  grown  on 
stakes,  as  the  racemes  can  be  seen  from  below. 
When,  however,  stakes  have  to  be  employed  the 
great  point  to  note  is  to  keep  the  side  branches 
spurred  back  regularly  so  that  they  do  not 
become  entangled,  which  takes  away  the  effect 
of  the  flowers.  A  good  method  of  growing  this 
or  anj'  other  Wistaria  is  to  let  it  ramble  at  will 
over  a  somewhat  thin-headed  tree,  such  as  a 
Laburnum.  Grown  in  this  manner  it  is  very 
beautiful.  D. 


THREE  GOOD  SHRUBS. 
Cvdonia  aurea  scperba.  — The  Cydonias  are 
all  very  popular  for  the  covering  of  walls,  and 
early  in  April  we  had  this  one  in  full  bloom  here. 
The  flowers  are  of  a  bright  scarlet,  which 
makes  it  very  conspicuous.  It  is  planted  against 
a  south  wall,  which  situation  the  plants  like,  but 
one  with  a  western  aspect  will  do  equally  as  well. 
They  will  also  thrive  in  any  ordinary  garden 
soil.  Pruning  may  be  done  about  November  or 
December.  This  consists  of  shortening  the 
current  year's  shoots  to  about  an  inch  or  so, 
leaving  those  at  the  ends  of  the  main  branches  a 
little  longer.  Propagation  may  be  effected  by 
means  of  the  current  year's  shoots,  with  a  heel 
of  old  wood  attached,  inserted  about  September 
out  of  doors,  or  by  layering  in  October  or 
November. 

Rhododendron  P'R.ecox. — This  beautiful  shrub 
was  also  in  full  bloom  at  the  time  named  above. 
It  is  of  a  dwarf  habit,  only  attaining  a  height  of 
about  2  feet  6  inches,  which  makes  it  very  useful 
for  the  front  of  shrubberies.  The  flowers  are  of 
a  pale  pink  colour,  the  best  effect  being  obtained 
when  two  or  three  plants  are  grouped  together. 
A  good  sheltered  situation  and  a  peaty  soil  suit  it 
admirably. 

STACHTDR0S  PRECOX. — This  shrub  is  a  native 
of  Japan,  and  also  succeeds  best  when  planted 
against  a  south  wall.  The  flowers,  which  are 
borne  on  small  spikes,  are  small  and  of  a  yellowish 
green  colour.  They  appear  in  great  profusion 
before  the  leaves  unfold.  It  may  be  propagated 
by  means  of  half-ripened  wood  inserted  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  cold  frame  in  September,  keeping  the 
cuttings  well  shaded  until  the  roots  form. 

R.  H.  Donaldson. 

Gulzean  Gaath  Oardena,  Ayr,  N.B. 


but  it  is  doubtful  whether  any  will  prove  more 
welcome  than  Viburnum  Carlesii,  a  beautiful 
white-flowered  shrub,  introduced  to  this  country 
from  Japan  in  1902.  It  is,  however,  a  native  of 
Corea.  It  forms  a  rather  low-growing,  spreading 
shrub  and  flowers  earlier  than  most  of  the 
members  of  this  family.  The  flowers,  which 
open  in  May,  are  borne  in  large,  irregular-shaped, 
rather  flattish  clusters  at  the  ends  of  the 
branches,  and  when  they  first  open  are  slightly 
tinted  pink,  changing  to  pure  white  with  age. 
A  pleasing  and  distinctive  feature  of  the  flowers 
is  their  delicate,  yet  pronounced,  fragrance,  which 
to  many  will  render  the  plant  most  valuable. 
The  leaves  are  of  medium  size  and  dark  green  in 
colour,  with  a  crinkled  and  somewhat  hairy 
surface.  Last  year,  when  shown  before  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society,  this  shrub  received 
an  award  of  merit,  and  this  spring  the  award 
was  increased  to  a  first-class  certificate.  Another 
beautiful  member  of  this  family  is  V.  tomentosum 
plicatum,  which  has  large  roundish,  heads  of 
white  flowers,  which  are  usually  sterile.  All  the 
Viburnums  like  a  rather  rich,  deeply  cultivated 
soil,  and  given  this  they  make  little  demand  on 
the  cultivator's  time. 


A  NEW  HARDY  FLOWERING  SHRUB. 
During  the  last  decade  there  have  been  many 
valuable  additions  made  to  those  flowering  shrubs 
which  may  be  regarded  as  hardy  in  this  country. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

THE  CUSTARD  MARROW  FOR  SUM- 
MER AND  AUTUMN  USE. 
THE  value  of  the  Custard  Marrow  for 
use  from  June  to  October  is  much 
overlooked,  as  this  vegetable  is  of 
great  value  when  the  best  variety  is 
required,  and  the  fruits,  when  cooked 
quite  young,  are  delicious,  either 
as  a  vegetable  with  meat  or  as  a  dressed 
or  second  -  course  vegetable.  Many  regard 
the  Vegetable  Marrow  as  a  poor,  flavourless 
vegetable  ;  and  grown  large,  with  a  mass  of  seed 
to  scoop  out  before  use  and  a  good  depth  of  hard 
rind  to  pare  away,  it  certainly  is  not  of  great 
value  ;  but  the  fault  lies  not  with  the  vegetable 
itself,  but  its  culture  and  the  way  it  is  served. 
For  years  in  the  pages  of  The  Garden  I  have 
advocated  growing  smaller  fruits,  cooking  them 
when  young  in  a  whole  state  and  without  any  peel- 
ing. Treated  thus  they  are  delicious.  In  the  home 
garden  the  Custard  Marrow  is,  I  consider,  one  of 
the  best  summer  and  autumn  vegetables,  and  as 
far  as  quality  is  concerned,  I  do  not  think  we  have 
any  vegetable  superior  if  treated  properly.  I 
have,  with  glass  culture,  tried  to  grow  this 
vegetable  all  the  year  round ;  but  I  do  not  advise 
it,  as  the  crop  is  too  poor  in  the  winter.  For 
gardens  limited  in  size  the  Custard  Marrow  is 
most  suitable,  as  most  of  the  forma  are  dwarf 
and  compact. 

More  varieties  are  grown  on  the  Continent 
than  we  have,  and  these  are  nearly  all  bush 
forms  ;  but  I  do  not  consider  any  of  them  equal 
to  the  Trailing  Custard  we  grow  in  this  country. 
Sutton's  Improved  Custard  is  a  splendid  vege- 
table of  trailing  habit,  and  grown  on  a  low  fence 
or  support  it  is  most  ornamental  during  the 
summer  months.  Of  the  Continental  forms  there 
are  yellow,  white  and  green  coloured  fruits ; 
some  are  much  warted  and  others  much  indented, 
and  some  are  flatter.  The  best  of  this  type  is 
the  White  Bush  Scallop  Custard.  The  Green 
Custard  is  very  distinct,  of  a  good  size  and  a 
deep  green  colour  when  young.  Another  very 
distinct  fruit  is  the  Orange  Custard,  which  is  a 
bright  orange  colour  when  fully  grown.  The 
Custard  Marrow  during  growth  gives  great 
quantities  of  fruit  and  well  repays  ample  food  in 
the  shape  of  liquid  manure  ;  and  an  open,  sunny 
position  and  good  soil,  the  plants  not  being 
crowded  in  any  way,  are  also  desirable.  I 
have  found  it  a  good  plan  to  plant  on  a  sunny 
border,  giving  each  plant  a  little  decayed 
manure  and  cutting  the  fruits  daily  during  the 
summer.  G.  Wtthes. 


June  26,  1909. 


THE     (GARDEN. 


313 


THE     GREENHOUSE. 


SUMMER    TREATMENT    OF 
HIPPEASTRUMS. 

WHERE  many  growers  tail  to  obtain 
satisfactory  results  with  these 
gorgeous  warm-house  bulbs,  the 
treatment  after  flowering  is 
usually  at  fault.  I  have  known 
men  put  the  plants  under  the 
stage  as  soon  as  the  flowers  have  faded,  and  then 
grumble  because  their  plants  only  produced  a 
few  feeble  leaves  and  no  flowers  the  following 
spring.  Something  a  little  different  from  this  is 
necessary  if  we  wish  to  get  fine  blooms  every 
year.  As  soon  as  the  flowers  fade  place  the  pots 
in  a  warm  stove,  so  as  to  induce  the  plants  to 
make  fine  leaves  rapidly.  Any  repotting  should 
also  be  done  at  the  time  the  plants  are  placed 
in  heat,  but  overpotting  must  be  avoided.  A 
good  top-dressing  with  very  rich  soil  is  better  in 
most  cases, 
feeding  after- 
wards with 
weak  liquid 
manure.  As 
soon  as  the 
plants  have 
made  full 
growth, 
usually  early 
in  June , 
remove  them 
to  an  open 
stage  in  a 
very  sunny 
greenhouse. 
Give  abund- 
ance of  air 
and  water 
carefully 
until  the 
leaves  begin 
to  turn 
yellow,  when 
water  must 
be  gradually 
withheld , 
although 
even  during 
winter  the 
soil  should 
never  be  per- 
initted  to 
become  dust 
dry.     Store 

the  plants  in  a  fairly  warm  place  until  growth 
once  more  shows. 
Preston  House.,  Linlithgow.  C.  Blair. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN 


THE    TREE    PEONIES. 

A  LTHOUGH  the  native    country    of    the 
/\  Tree    Pasony    (Pseonia    Moutan)    is 

/  %  officially  given  as  China,  it  is  in 
/  %  every  respect,  I  think,  more  closely 
/  J^  associated  with  Japan ,  and  it  is  due 
to  our  Eastern  allies  that  we  have 
the  many  forms  and 
beautiful  colours 
so  peculiar  to 
that  land  of  beau- 
tiful flora.  The 
gorgeous  colours  and 
size  of  the  flowers  ap- 
peal to  almost  every 
lover  of  garlening, 
and  this,  together 
with  their  easy  cul- 
ture    and      perfect 


"rT>"-n 


^ 


L^LIO-CATTLEYA  MIKADO. 
This  is  a  very  fine  addition  to  the  bi-generic 
race  and  a  plant  that  is  sure  to  be  much  in 
demand  when  the  stock  has  been  increased.  The 
sepals  and  petals  are  a  very  pure,  rich  canary 
yellow  colour,  the  labellum  being  rich  velvety 
carmine  with  a  narrow  margin  of  pale  yellow, 
some  rich  orange  colouring  being  present  in  the 
throat.  The  plant  was  shown  by  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Holford,  C.I.E.,  C.V.O.,  Westonbirt, 
Tetbury,  Gloucestershire,  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  8th  inst  ,  when  it 
received  a  first-class  certificate. 


GARDENIAS. 
Plants  that  are  growing  in  4i-ineh  pots  and  are 
full  of  roots  should  be  repotted  into  8  inch  ones, 
after  which  pinching  should  be  discontinued. 
Later-rooted  cuttings  in  small  pots  must  be  kept 
near  the  glass  and  pinched  occasionally  in  order 
to  form  bushy  specimens.  All  cutback  plants 
that  have  made  growths  from  1  inch  to  2  inches 
long  should  be  repotted  into  larger  pots,  using  a 
compost  of  equal  parts  turfy  loam  and  peat, 
adding  bone-meal,  charcoal  and  coarse  silver  sand. 


THE  NEW  L.a;LIO-CATTLEYA 


(Natui-al  size.) 


hardiness,  does,  no  doubt,  make  them  popular. 
Among  the  shrubs  at  this  season  of  the  year  they 
are  an  acquisition,  and  given  liberal  treatment  and 
a  somewhat  sheltered  position  (merely  for  the 
sake  of  the  flowers,  which  are  badly  damaged  by 
much  wind  and  the  effect  of  bright  morning  sun 
on  them  after  frost)  these  will  make  good  growth 
and  develop  into  nice  specimens.  Their 
appearance  would  suggest  that  they  are  gross 
feeders,  so  that  it  is  essential  at  the  time  of 
planting  that  the  ground  be  well  enriched  with 
some  good  farmyard  manure  and,  if  the  ground 
be  of  a  tenacious  character,  a  little  turfy  loam 
and  road  scrapings  will  be  of  great  advantage,  at 
the  same  time  applying  a  dusting  of  bone-meal. 
During  spells  of  dry  weather  they  will  be  greatly 
benefited  by  copious  applications  of  water,  and 


when  firmly  established,  liquid  manure,  properly 
diluted,  may  be  given  with  advantage.  There 
are  a  great  number  of  varieties  under  native 
names  to  choose  from,  ranging  in  colour  from 
purest  white  to  crimson.  As  these  better 
varieties  are  all  grafted  on  common  stock,  any 
growths  that  may  arise  therefrom  should  be 
rubbed  out,  as  if  allowed  to  remain  they  will 
soon  outgrow  and  rob  the  variety.  Among  the 
varieties  I  know,  for  colour  there  is  none  to 
surpass 

Toyo-no-homare. — This  variety  is  of  somewhat 
smaller  dimensions  perhaps  than  others,  and  has 
beautiful  rich  deep  scarlet  petals  and  yellow 
anthers.  A  fine  flower  and  plant  in  every  way. 
Adsuma-salci  is  also  a  striking  flower  of  a  deep 
rose  colour. 

Saigyo-salcura  is  a  delicate  colour,  hardly 
white,  with  a  suffusion  of  pink  at  the  base  of 
the  petals. 

Nishikishima  has  pale  pink  petals  with  beauti- 
ful golden  anthers.  These  are  a  few  we  have  here, 
and   were    planted  five   years  ago,  when   quite 

small,   and 

some  of    our 

plants    are 

now  carrying 

/"/"^  .  many     fully 

*  expanded 

flowers. 

E.  Beckett. 

'\^  Elstree. 

,  HARDY 

PRIMULAS 

{Continued  ) 
Primula  in- 
voluckata 
(P.  Munroi). 
—  A    Hima- 
layan    plant 
having 
creamy 
white  flowers 
with  a  yellow 
centre,  borne 
in  umbels  on 
stems    about 
6    inches 
high.    There 
is    also    a 
variety 
grown    with 
flowers   hav- 
ing  a   shade 
of  blue.      It 
flowers    in 
June   and   likes  a   moist,    shady  position 
planted  in  loamy  soil.    This  plant  frequently 
dies  after   flowering,  and  if  it  survives  is 
very   weak    the   next    season.      The    best 
results   are  always   obtained  from  young 
plants  grown  on  from  seed.     This  germi- 
nates  readily  when   good,    and   the    seed- 
lings should  be  grown   in  pots  till  large 
enough  to  plant  out. 

P.  japonica. — This  handsome  Japanese 
species  is  one  of  the  most  effective  for 
growing  in  moist,  shady  places.  By  the 
side  of  a  stream  it  grows  to  a  large  size  with 
stems  over  2  feet  high,  bearing  several  whorls 
of  flowers  on  each.  These  are  of  various  shades 
of  colour,  from  deep  crimson  to  pure  white, 
and  make  a  most  brilliant  display  when  planted 
in  large  groups.  Self-sown  seedlings  spring  up 
around  the  old  plants  in  profusion  and  need  to 
be  thinned  out  considerably.  Seed  if  kept 
and  allowed  to  get  dry  takes  a  long  time  to 
germinate,  but  when  planted  in  a  suitable 
place  there  is  no  lack  of  young  plants  for 
succession,  although  the  old  ones  usually  die 
after  flowering. 

P.  hitaibdiana. — From  the  Eastern  Alps,  with 
pinkish  flowers  and  glandular  pubescent  leaves. 
It  is  intermediate  between  P.  hirsuta  and  P, 
in  tegri  folia. 


\ 


\y 


314 


THE     GARDEN. 


[June  26,  1909. 


P.  lonyiflora.  — A  beautiful  and  distinct  species 
from  the  mountains  of  Southern  Europe,  with 
lilac  flowers  having  tubes  1  inch  or  more  in 
length.  It  will  grow  under  similar  conditions  to 
those  which  suit  P.  farinosa,  the  flowers  being 
produced  in  May  and  June.  Like  the  above- 
mentioned  species,  it  has  leaves  powdered  with 
meal. 

P.  luteola. — A  handsome  plant  with  large, 
bright  green  leaves  and  umbels  of  yellow  flowers 
from  the  Eastern  Caucasus.  Till  recently  it  has 
been  somewhat  rare  in  gardens,  but  is  now 
becoming  more  plentiful.  It  is  a  moisture-loving 
species  and  will  flourish  under  conditions 
accorded  to  P.  sikkimensis.  It  is  rather  near 
P.  auriculata,  but  with  larger  and  yellow  flowers. 

P.  margrnata.  — From  the  Alps  of  the 
Dauphiny  and  Piedmont,  this  is  sometimes 
confused  with  P.  Auricula  var.  marginata. 
P.  marginata  is  one  of  the  easiest  to  grow, 
as  well  as  being  one  of  the  longest  lived 
Primulas,  either  planted  out  in  a  sunny 
place  in  the  rock  garden  or  grown  in  pans 
for  the  alpine  house.  It  is  worth  growing 
for  its  leaves  alone,  some  forms  having 
margins  of  great  beauty  with  sinuate 
golden  edges.  The  plants  form  branching 
stems,  each  bearing  a  rosette  of  the 
powdery  leaves.  In  the  type  the  flowers 
are  pale  lilae,  while  there  is  another  form, 
densiflora,  with  rather  smaller  purplish 
rose  coloured  flowers.  It  grows  well  in 
gritty  loam,  with  plenty  of  broken  lime- 
stone mixed  with  the  soil. 

P.  megasecejolia.  — This  winter-flowering 
species  was  introduced  into  cultivation 
in  the  year  1900  by  Mr.  Carl  Sprenger  of 
Naples.  It  comes  from  the  mountainous 
region  of  Lazistan  in  Asia  Minor,  and  is 
peculiar  in  that  it  belongs  to  a  group  the 
types  of  which  are  Chinese.  It  is  a  hand- 
some species  with  round,  leathery  leaves  of 
good  size,  and  stems  about  1  foot  high 
bearing  umbels  of  pale  lilac  or  rose  purple 
flowers.  An  easy  plant  to  grow,  it  may 
be  propagated  readily  by  dividing  the  root 
directly  after  it  has  finished  flowering. 
The  pieces  may  be  either  potted  up  in  a 
mixture  of  sandy  loam  and  leaf-soil  and 
kept  in  a  cold  frame,  or  planted  right 
out  in  the  rock  garden.  On  account  of  its 
flowering  in  the  winter,  it  requires  a  very 
sheltered  position  outside,  but  its  chief 
value  will  be  for  the  cold  house,  where  in 
pans  it  continues  flowering  from  December 
onwards  through  the  winter.  It  should  be 
grown  in  a  north  frame  during  the  summer 
months. 

P.  minima. — A  very  small  plant  with 
crowded  tufts  of  coarsely  toothed  leaves. 
The  very  large  flowers,  which  are  produced 
singly  or  in  pairs  on  short  stalks,  are  of  a 
violet  rose  colour,  and  the  petals  are  deeply 
bifid.  It  occurs  only  in  granitic  soils  in 
the  Central  and  Eastern  Alps.  It  needs 
abundant  moisture  at  the  root,  and  should 
be  planted  in  porous  soils.  With  these 
conditions  it  will  do  in  full  sun,  but  half 
shade  is  best  in  this  country. 

P.  nivalis  is  a  rare  and  handsome  species 
found  in  the  Caucasus  and  Siberia.     It  is  a  bog- 
loving  plant  and  variable  in  habit,  due  to   its 
wide  range. 

P.  ohtuaifolia.  —  Plants  in  cultivation  under 
this  name  are  generally  all  P.  sikkimensis. 

P.  officinalis. — The  Cowslip  is  such  a  well- 
known  plant  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  say  much 
about  it.  Spread  all  over  Central  and  Northern 
Europe,  it  has  been  in  cultivation  in  English 
gardens  since  the  sixteenth  century.  With  P. 
elatior  it  is  the  origin  of  the  popular  Polyanthus 
strains,  and  is  generally  found  in  moist  meadows. 

P.  ovalijolia.  —  So  far  little  success  has 
attended  the  cultivation  of  this  Western  Chinese 
plant  in  this  country.  It  has  rounded  leaves 
and  violet  purple  flowers,  and  is  stated  by  its 
introducer   to   carpet  the   woods   in    its   native 


home.  Evidently  the  conditions  available  here 
are  not  suitable  for  its  well-being. 

P.  Palinuri. — This  rare  and  curious  species 
comes  from  Italy,  where  it  grows  in  the  fissures 
of  rocks  above  Cape  Palinuro.  In  appearance  it 
is  somewhat  like  P.  Auricula,  but  with  very 
much  larger  and  greener  leaves  and  small  yellow 
flowers  on  stout  stems,  which  grow  out  of  the 
soil  to  a  good  length.  It  prefers  a  north 
aspect,  wedged  in  between  pieces  of  sandstone, 
and  is  quite  hardy  at  Kew,  where  a  large  plant 
has  been  growing  for  many  years  planted  among 
stones  at  the  base  of  a  small  Pine,  where  it  gets 
well  dried  in  summer. 

P.  Parry i. — A  native  of  the  alpine  regions  of 
the  rocky  mountains  of  Colorado  ;  it  is  a  bog- 
loving  plant  with  erect  leaves  and  intense 
crimson   flowers   in  large  umbels.      One  of   the 


LAVATERA  ROSEA   SPLENDENS. 

handsomest  Primulas,  it  does  not  flourish  every- 
where, but  does  best  when  planted  in  rather 
moist,  spongy  soil  that  is  well  drained  and  never 
allowed  to  get  stagnant.  Seeds  germinate  freely, 
and  young  plants  may  be  grown  in  small  pots 
plunged  in  a  shady  frame.  It  likes  a  soil  composed 
of  a  mi.xture  of  peat  and  loam  with  leafy  soil. 

P.  pedemontana. — A  close  ally  of  P.  visoosa, 
this  plant  differs  from  it  chiefly  in  its  rhomboid 
leaves  with  short  petioles,  thinly  covered  with 
brown  hairs.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Graian  and 
Cottian  Alps  in  the  Piedmont,  and  is  a  beautiful 
species  with  large  rosettes  of  leaves  and  bright 
crimson  flowers.  It  will  grow  well  in  the  joints 
of  rooks  in  half  shade,  flowering  in  April. 

P.  Poissoni  comes  from  the  mountains  of 
Yunnan  in  Southern  China,  and  is  quite  hardy 


in  ordinary  winters  when  planted  in  a  rather 
sheltered  place.  In  habit  it  is  something  like 
P.  japonica,  but  it  is  easily  distinguished  by 
its  glaucous  leaves.  Growing  about  12  inches 
high,  the  violet  rose  coloured  flowers  are  disposed 
in  whorls  of  eight  or  more  on  each.  It  is  readily 
raised  from  seed  and  grows  freely,  succeeding 
well  in  moist,  loamy  soil  in  a  shady  or  even 
sunny  position.  Like  many  others  of  this  family, 
plants  frequently  die  off  after  flowering. 

P.  pulverulenta. — This  fine  plant,  which  was 
introduced  by  Messrs.  Veiteh,  through  Mr. 
Wilson,  from  Western  China,  was  at  first  con- 
sidered only  a  form  of  P.  japonica.  It  has, 
however,  distinctive  characters,  and  deserves  to 
rank  as  a  species.  In  habit  and  foliage  it 
resembles  P.  japonica,  but  differs  in  having 
Urger  and  more  richly  coloured  flowers,  and  in 
the  flower  stems  and  calyces  being  thickly 
coated  with  a  white  mealy  powder. 
Growing  in  strong,  moist  loam  to  a  height 
of  over  2  feet  it  is  a  most  effective  plant, 
either  singly  or  in  large  masses.  Like  P. 
japonica  it  is  readily  raised  from  seeds 
sown  as  toon  as  they  are  ripe,  and  it  will 
flourish  under  the  same  conditions. 
(To  be  continued. ) 


THE  TREE  MALLOWS. 
(Lavateras.) 
Probably  there  are  about  two  dozen 
species  of  Lavatera  known,  the  majority 
of  which  are  natives  of  the  Mediterranean 
region  and  Western  Europe.  One  species 
is  found  in  Australia,  while  others  occur 
wild  in  the  Canary  Islands  and  in  Central 
Asia.  Under  cultivation  in  English  gar- 
dens two  species  only  can  he  said  to  be 
of  importance,  one  of  which,  however, 
may  be  classed  among  the  most  beautiful 
and  showy  of  the  hardy  annuals  we 
possess.  This  is  L.  trimestris.  The  genus 
belongs  to  the  Mallow  family  and  is  nearly 
allied  to  Malva,  from  which  it  differs 
chiefly  in  the  lobing  of  the  outer  envelopes 
of  the  flower.  The  name  was  given  by 
Linnajus  in  honour  of  two  naturalists 
(brothers)  called  Lavater,  who  lived  in 
Zurich  during  the  eighteenth  century. 

L.  trimestris. — This  is  the  best  and  the 
commonest  of  Lavateras  in  gardens.  It  is 
an  annual,  and  is  a  native  of  Southern 
France,  Spain,  Morocco  and  most  of  the 
countries  that  surround  the  Mediterranean 
Sea.  It  was  first  introduced  to  Britain  in 
163.3,  and  is  certainly  one  of  the  showiest 
of  hardy  annual  plants,  growing  about 
3  feet  high.  The  leaves  towards  the  base 
of  the  stem  are  larger  and  more  rounded 
than  those  towards  the  top,  where  they 
become  narrow,  pointed  and  lobed.  The 
flowers  are  each  3  inches  to  3J  inches  in 
diameter,  and  in  the  typical  plant  are  of  a 
bright  rose  colour  with  a  patch  of  maroon 
in  the  centre.  In  the  variety  alba  they 
are  pure  white.  The  flowering  season 
extends  from  .Tuly  to  September.  The 
flowers,  especially  of  the  one  illustrated 
(L.  rosea  splendens),  are  charming  for 
indoor  use  ;  the  greater  part  of  the  stem,  with 
its  open  and  unexpanded  blossoms,  should  be  out 
and  arranged  in  vases,  &c.,  in  which  the  blooms 
will  continue  to  open  and  remain  in  full  beauty 
for  several  days.  The  plant  is  worth  growing  in 
a  reserve  plot  for  this  purpose  alone.  The  seed, 
which  can  be  purchased  cheaply  from  any  seeds- 
man, may  be  sown  in  March  or  early  April  on  the 
border  where  the  plants  are  desired  to  grow  and 
flower,  thinning  them  out  when  an  inch  or  2  inches 
high.  Like  most  of  the  Mallow  family,  the 
plants  like  a  deeply  dug  and  well-enriched  soil. 
The  variety  malvieformis,  discovered  by  the  late 
Mr.  John  Ball  at  Reraya  in  Morocco,  has  smaller 
flowers  of  a  pale  purple  colour. 

L.  arborea  (the  Tree  Mallow,  or  Sea  Mallow). — 
This  is  a  shrubby  spesies  abundant  near  the  sea 


June  26,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


315 


in  various  parts  of  South- Western  Europe  and 
in  the  British  Isles.  It  has  been  gathered  wild 
in  the  south-west  of  England,  in  Ireland,  and  on 
the  Bass  Roek  in  the  Firth  of  Forth,  always  near 
the  sea.  Inland,  in  the  latitude  of  London,  it  is 
not  hardy,  but  in  the  gardens  (often  cottage 
gardens)  near  the  coasts  of  Cornwall  and  Devon 
it  is  very  often  to  be  seen.  Under  cultivation 
and  grown  in  rich,  deep  soil  it  reaches  6  feet  to 
10  feet  in  height,  and  has  thick,  succulent  shoots 
bearing  large,  soft  and  many-lobed  leaves.  The 
flowers  are  each  2  inches  to  3  inches  across  and 
pale  purple.  A  more  showy  and  attractive 
plant  than  the  type  is  L.  a.  variegata,  a  form 
sent  out  many  years  ago  and  given  a  first-class 
certificate  by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
It  is,  unfortunately,  no  hardier  than  the  green- 
leaved  plant,  and  requires  protection  in  winter, 
but  it  is  very  striking  when  well  grown  and 
in  full  vigour,  the  leaves  being  splashed  with 
large,  irregular  patches  of  white.  It  is  worth 
growing  in  an  unheated  or  cool  greenhouse  and 
can  be  propagated  from  cuttings,  while  it  comes 
fairly  true  from  seed. 


MYDDELTON  HOUSE  :  ITS 
GARDEN  AND  ITS  GAR- 
DENER. 

A  FTER  several  attempts  to  hit  upon  a  suit- 
/\  able  title  for  the  article  the  Editor 

/   %         has  asked  me  to  write,  I  have  come 

f  \  to  the  conclusion  that  the  above  is  as 
y  ^  accurate  and  as  suggestive  as  any 
that  I  can  choose.  To  begin  with, 
the  garden  is  Mr.  Bowles's  father's,  and  although 
he  has  very  nearly  a  free  hand,  there  are,  I  fancy, 
just  one  or  two  little  restrictions  which  he  has  to 
observe.  For  example,  he  may  not  take  in  all 
the  nice  meadow  land,  some  of  which  is  so 
temptingly  near  the  rookery  ;  nor  may  he  fill  all 
the  hedgerows  with  his  untidy  plants,  or  if  he 
does  they  will  have  to  take  their  "  luck  "  when 
the  stern  decree  goes  forth  that  the  hedges  must 
be  cleaned. 

With  these  exceptions  there  is  very  little 
that  he  may  not  do.  Practically  he  has  a 
free  hacd,  and  the  result  of  the  wisdom  of  the 
father  and  the  skill  and  taste  of  the  son  is  a  most 
interesting  and  varied  garden.  Mr.  E.  A.  Bowles 
is  known  in  gardening  circles  as  one  of  the  most 
prominent  members  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society.  Not  only  is  he  a  member  of  the  council, 
but  for  the  last  two  or  three  years  he  has  filled 
with  great  ability  the  difficult  position  of  acting 
vice-chairman  of  the  scientific  committee.  In 
my  opinion  it  is  a  case  of  the  round  peg  in  the 
round  hole.  His  wide  botanical  knowledge  and 
his  love  of  "  rarities  "  and  "forms  "and  proper 
sorts  of  monstrosities,  such  as  I  fancy  the  old 
illustrators  of  garden-life  had  a  weakness  for 
figuring  in  their  plates,  mark  him  as  an  ideal 
man  for  the  post.  The  difficult  questions,  the 
interesting  experiments,  the  out-of-the-way 
plants  and  the  curiosities  of  vegetable-life  that 
come  before  the  committee  are  Just  what  he 
delights  in.  Naturally  the  man  is  reflected  in 
his  gardening  ;  and  what  we  see  at  Myddelton 
House  is  the  materialised  spirit  of  a  gardener- 
botanist  of  varied  and  wide  interests  and  tastes. 
Here  is  a  rookery  full  of  all  kinds  of  choice  things, 
big  and  little.  Here,  again,  are  frames  and  pots 
containing  almost  all  the  known  Crocus  species 
that  oan  be  grown  in  the  British  Isles,  in  addition 
to  endless  hybrids  of  his  own  raising.  There  is 
a  pergola,  whose  oaken  posts  and  cross-beams 
support  many  kinds  of  hardy  Vines  and  climbers, 
while  the  flat  stone  walk  underneath  is  full  of 
tiny  treasures. 

In  another  place  we  come  across  some  stone 
steps  and  balustrades  which  would  be  bare  if  our 
visit  was  in  any  but  the  hot  part  of  the  year, 
but  which  are  then  occupied  by  pots  and  flat 
pans  full  of    succulents  which  come  here    for 


their  summer  health  -  giving  change.  Here, 
too,  alongside  the  New  River,  which  was 
made  by  Sir  Hugh  Myddelton  in  the  reign  of 
James  I.  and  which  runs  right  through  the 
garden,  is  a  wide,  circular  terrace  with  a 
row  of  round  beds  filled  in  the  spring  with 
Darwin  Tulips  and  Miss  Willmott's  deep  blue 
Forget-me-nots,  and  later  on  with  such  things 
as  scarlet  Geraniums.  It  is  the  one  place 
in  the  whole  garden  where  some  concession 
is  made  to  the  mid- Victorian  "  bedding 
craze."  Then  there  are  outdoor  collections  of 
succulents,  varieties  of  flat-stemmed  Opuntias, 
Cereuses  and  Echinooaotuses  made  in  1899  and 
still  flourishing,  kept  alive  with  the  help  of  large 
glass  lights,  which  are  put  over  them  to  throw 
off  the  winter  rains  and  then  entirely  removed. 
In  the  borders  we  find  in  one  part  many  of  the 
best  kinds  of  May-flowering  and  Darwin  Tulips, 
and  in  another  fine  groups  of  different  kinds  of 
Eremuruses,  or  many  forms  of  the  two  early 
blue  Anemones,  or  various  Eucalyptuses  and 
flowering  shrubs. 

The  garden  is  a  very  old  one,  and  at  one  time 
its  owner  must  have  taken  a  special  pride  in 
lead-work  ;    some    excellent    specimens    in    the 


are  used  by  the  Japanese  as  umbrellas  ;  (8) 
Eucommia  almoides,  the  hardy  rubber  -  pro- 
ducing tree  ;  (9)  two  hardy  Orange  trees  (.lEgle 
sepiaria) — they  are  about  7  feet  high  and  were 
grown  from  the  pips  of  Oranges  ripened  in  Canon 
EUacombe's  garden  at  Bitton ;  (10)  Nandina 
domestica,  a  fine  specimen  6  feet  high;  (11) 
Lathrsea  clandestina,  a  curious  parasite  which 
grows  on  the  roots  of  a  Weeping  Willow;  (12) 
seven  species  of  Acanthus  ;  (13)  Trachycarpus 
exeelsus,  a  hardy  Palm,  which  under  the  shelter 
of  the  house  flowers  each  season  ;  (14)  Tulipa 
Batalinii  var.  Sunset,  a  pink  variety  of  the  well- 
known  and  lovely  Batalinii ;  (15)  his  fine 
collection  of  succulents  in  pots. 

Let  us  now  suppose  the  day  is  wet,  or 
that  one  is  tired,  very  probably  you  will  be 
invited  into  Mr.  Bowles's  sanctum — a  small  room 
lined  from  top  to  bottom  with  botanical  and 
gardening  books,  rare  and  everyday,  old  and  new. 
But  it  is  not  these  that  I  have  brought  you  there 
to  see ;  it  is  to  ask  him  to  show  you  his  beautiful 
sketches  of  Snowdrops.  The  casual  observer 
as  he  sees  them  growing  would  only  notice  some 
difierence  in  the  size  of  the  blooms,  or  in  the 
green  shade  of  the  leaves  ;  but  when  the  flowers 


IS   THE   GARDEN   OF   MYDDELTON   HOUSE,   ENFIELD. 


shape  of  6  feet  high  ostriches  still  stand  sentinel 
over  the  river.  The  present  Lord  High  Gardener 
has  a  weakness  for  great  earthenware  oil-jars 
and  weird  water-jugs,  which  he  a-sort-of-half 
collects,  especially  if  they  have  a  little  historical 
interest  attached  to  them  ;  e.g.,  two  of  his  very 
latest  jugs  were  bought  ih  Holland  when  the 
little  Princess  Juliana  was  born,  and  now  6very 
plant  that  is  watered  by  them  thinks  it  is 
drinking  to  the  health  of  the  little  baby  whose 
life  is  so  precious  to  our  Dutch  cousins. 

I  feel  sure  it  will  be  of  considerable  interest 
if  I  pass  from  the  general  to  the  particular,  and 
give  a  more  or  less  complete  list  of  what  Mr. 
Bowles  himself  calls  his  proudest  treasures  : 
(1)  The  large  collection  of  Crocus  species  and 
hybrids ;  (2)  his  Snowdrop  forms ;  (3)  Asparagus 
verticillatus  —  grows  15  feet  high  each  season  and 
bears  a  fine  crop  of  berries  ;  (4)  Asparagus 
aeutifolius,  a  fine  plant  in  the  rock  garden  ;  (5) 
four  square  yards  of  Amygdalus  nanus  (the 
dwarf  Almond)  ;  (6)  a  well-established  mass  of 
Gunnera  manicata— it  has  leaves  7  feet  high ; 
(7)    Petasites    japonica    gigantea  —  the    leaves 


are  carefully  examined,  differences  innumerable 
appear,  not  only  in  the  markings  of  the  inner 
segments,  but  also  in  the  shape  and  size  of  the 
great  white  outer  divisions.  He  is  trying  to 
collect  and  picture  all  the  known  forms,  and  his 
series  of  sketches  will  be  of  great  historical 
interest  apart  from  their  beauty.  Possibly,  too, 
lying  on  the  table  there  will  be  an  unopened  box 
from  Montenegro,  or  a  few  glass  vases  in  which 
are  some  recently  opened  Snowdrop  plants  from 
Bowden,  or  there  will  be  the  cover  of  a  package 
from  Italy,  or  an  exchange  list  of  the  botanical 
garden  at  Tunis,  or  a  letter  from  Canon 
Ellaoombe,  or  some  beautiful  photographs  of 
the  garden  done  by  a  local  man  in  the  village, 
or  a  half-finished  article  for  some  magazine  or 
paper,  possibly  about  his  bird  friends — the  raven 
or  the  gulls — possibly  about  some  abstruse 
question  of  Crocus  nomenclature.  This  sanctum 
is  the  kernel,  at  once  the  protection  and  the 
endosperm  of  the  gentle  life  whose  spirit  has 
made  possible  the  singularly  varied,  interesting 
and  scientific  garden  that  surrounds  Myddelton 
House.  Joseph  Jacob. 


316 


THE     GARDEN. 


IJuNE  26,  1909 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


RAISING     PANSIE8. 


BROMPTON     STOCKS     AND     THEIR     CULTURE. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.  —  The  lawn  or 
grass  plot  will  need  attention  during 
the  very  hot  weather  that  is  usually 
experienced  at  this  time  of  the  year. 
Usually  grass  at  the  end  of  June 
presents  a  very  rusty  and  dull 
appearance,  mainly  owing  to  drought,  and  where 
an  ample  supply  of  water  is  available  the  trouble 


I. — SEEDLING  PAN8IES  READY  FOR  PRICKING  OFF. 

can  easily  be  obviated.  A  hose-pipe  with  one  of 
the  many  useful  sprinklers  now  on  the  market 
attached  to  it  will  usually  keep  the  grass  green 
and  fresh,  it  only  being  necessary  to  move  the 
sprinkler  from  time  to  time  so  that  the  whole 
lawn  receives  a  good  soaking.  Mowing  is  not 
likely  to  be  needed  quite  so  frequently  as  it  was 
in  the  spring,  and  it  is  wise  to  raise  the  blade  of 
the  miohine  so  as  to  leave  at  least  1  inch  of  the 
grass.  If  very  close  cutting  is  resorted  to,  the 
roots  of  the  grass  are  exposed  to  the  fierce  rays 
of  the  sun,  much  to  their  disadvantage.  The 
present  is  a  good  time  to  make  a  sowing  of 
the  old  Brompton  Stock  to  provide  plants 
for  flowering  early  next  summer.  I  prefer  to 
sow  the  seeds  where  the  plants  are  intended  to 
flower,  and  advise  this  wherever  it  is  possible. 
Given  a  well-drained  soil  and  preferably  one 
containing  a  good  percentage  of  old  mortar, 
plants  from  seeds  sown  now  will  pass  through 
an  ordinary  winter  unharmed.  Of  course,  thin 
sowing  and  an  early  thinning  of  the  seedlings  are 
necessary  so  that  sturdy  and  bushy  specimens 
may  be  obtained.  Staking,  tying  and  thinning 
are  items  that  will  demand  much  time  just  now, 
and  the  wise  grower  will  see  that  they  are  not 
neglected. 

Vegetable  Garden.  — Tomatoes  that  were  planted 
out  early  in  the  month  are  now  growing  very 
rapidly,  and  the  earliest  have  already  set  some 
fruits.  Care  must  be  taken  to  pinch  out  all 
side  shoots  as  soon  as  they  become  visible, 
keeping  each  plant  to  one  or  two  stems  ;  usually 
one  only  is  preferable.  Should  the  weather  be 
very  dry,  water  must  be  applied,  giving  each 
plant  a  thorough  soaking  when  the  work  is 
done.  Tying,  too,  must  not  be  neglected,  no 
matter  whether  the  plants  are  growing  against  a 
wall  or  in  the  open.  The  cutting  of  Asparagus 
must  now  cease  if  we  desire  good  heads  another 
season,  and  before  growth  becomes  very  high 
and  thick  the  beds  should  be  cleared  of  all  weeds 
and  given  a  general  tidy  up.  Should  any  liquid 
manure  be  available,  this  may  well  be  given  to 
the  plants,  as  it  will  assist  them  in  building  up 
strong  crowns  for  next  year. 

Fruit  Garden. — In  warm  localities  there  will 
now  or  shortly  be  some  Strawberry  runners  ready 
for  layering,  and  the  earlier  this  work  is  done 


the  better.  Young  plants  secured  now  and 
planted  out  during  August  will  give  a  good 
crop  next  summer.  Pots  2i  inches  in  diameter  are 
the  best  to  use,  and  each  should  be  filled  with 
good  ordinary  potting  soil,  the  latter  being  made 
moderately  firm.  Then  sink  each  pot  to  its 
rim  in  the  soil  of  the  Strawberry  bed  and  place 
the  embryo  plant  in  the  centre,  a  rather  flat 
stone  laid  on  the  runner  close  up  to  the  young 
plant  sufficing  to  keep  it  in  place  and,  at  the 
same  time,  preserving  moisture  in  the  soil. 
When  plunged  thus,  the  soil  in  the  pots  does 
not  dry  up  nearly  so  quickly  as  it  would  do  if 
the  pots  were  merely  stood  on  the  surface.  It 
will  be  necessary  to  give  water  should  the 
weather  prove  dry,  and  if  due  attention  is  given 
to  this  the  plants  will  quickly  root.  When  the 
pots  are  filled  with  roots,  the  runner  may  be 
severed  and  the  young  plants  stood  closely 
together  and  shaded  for  a  few  days.  Do  not 
propagate  from  barren  plants,  and  only  take 
one  plant  from  each  runner. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Such  hard-wooded 
plants  as  Acacias,  Ericas  and  Rhododendrons 
(Azileas)  may  now  be  stood,  or  rather  plunged, 
outside  in  a  bed  of  ashes  in  a  partially  shaded 
position,  provided  they  have  been  well  hardened 
by  free  ventilation  for  some  time  previously. 
This  outdoor  treatment  hardens  up  the  wood 
splendidly  and  liys  the  foundation  for  a  good 
crop  of  flowers  another  spring.  A  light  syringing 
overhead  about  4  p.m.  each  day  will  be  much 
appreciated  by  the  plants,  and  will  assist  in 
keeping  insect  pests  under.  Watering,  shading 
and  ventilation  must  have  strict  attention  now 
if  the  weather  is  hot,  otherwise  much  harm 
will  quickly  be  done  to  the  plants.  Feed  all 
specimen  plants,  such  as  Fuchsias,  with  weak 
liquid  manure  where  they  have  filled  their  pots 
with  roots,  and  pot  on  any  younger  plants  that 
need  it.  H. 

RAISING  TUFTED  AND  OTHER  PANSIES 
FROM    SEED. 

Pansy  seed  may  be  sown  at  almost  any  time. 
In  the  early  months  of  the  year  the  seed  should 
be  sown  under  glass  where  a  little  bottom-heat 
can  be  given.  March  and  April  are  excellent 
months  for  spring  sowing,  and  under  ordinary 
conditions  the  resulting  seedlings  will  flower 
satisfactorily  the  same  year.  Seed  may  be  sown 
at  the  present  time  either  under  glass,  on  a 
hot-bed,  or,  if  preferred,  in  a  bed  made  up  out- 
doors. When  artificial  heat  is  employed  the 
seedlings  are  brought  into  being  earlier  in  con- 
sequence, so  that  by  these  means  from  present 
sowing  it  is  just  possible  a  large  number  of  the 
plants  would  flower  during  the  present  season, 
though  very  late,  of  course.  These  seedling 
plants  would  naturally  come  into  flower  very 
early  next  spring.  A  sowing  made  outdoors  in 
July  and  August  would  provide  a  grand  display 
next  March  and  April  in  a  normal  season,  but 
care  would  have  to  be  taken  to  prick  off  the 
seedlings  in  specially  prepared  beds  in  good  time 
in  the  autumn. 

I  am  more  especially  interested  at  the 
moment,  however,  in  raising  a  batch  of  Pansies 
as  soon  as  possible,  and  for  this  reason  desire  to 
show  how  this  is  to  be  accomplished.  I  prefer 
to  sow  the  seeds  in  seed-pans  or  shallow  boxes 
and  to  place  these  in  a  frame  or  on  a  hot-bed  to 
assist  the  germinating  process  at  this  period. 
Seed-pans  are  cheap  enough.  They  are  perforated 
with  holes  in  the  bottom,  so  that  when  these  are 
covered  with  crooks  and  some  siftinga  of  the 
compost  used  for  seedling  raising  this  will  effectii- 
I  ally  prevent  the  drainage  getting  clogged. 


Soil  for  raising  Pansies  from  seed  should  con- 
sist of  equal  parts  of  loam  and  leaf-mould  passed 
through  a  sieve  with  a  half-inch  mesh,  and  have 
added  to  it  a  suifioient  quantity  of  coarse 
silver  sand  or  clean  road  grit  to  make  the  com- 
post porous  when  these  three  ingredients  are 
thoroughly  well  mixed  together.  Fill  in  the 
soil  to  just  below  the  rim  of  the  seed-pan,  making 
this  somewhat  firm  by  frequent  rappings  on  the 
potting-bench  to  settle  the  compost  evenly  and 
satisfactorily.  Proceed  then  to  sow  the  seed 
thinly  ;  it  is  a  great  mistake  to  sow  thickly,  as 
the  seedlings  are  less  easy  to  remove  later  on, 
and  their  progress  must  necessarily  be  less  satis- 
factory in  consequence.  Very  lightly  cover  the 
seeds  with  the  finer  particles  of  soil. 

If  placed  on  a  hot-bed  the  heat  of  which  is 
somewhat  spent,  the  seedlings  should,  in  the 
course  of  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  be  some- 
what similar  to  those  seen  in  Fig.  1.  Although 
the  seeds  in  this  case  were  sown  rather 
thinly,  note  what  a  large  number  of  seedlings 
there  are  to  deal  with.  They  need  to  be  taken 
in  hand  in  good  time,  otherwise  they  become 
drawn  and  weakly,  although  they  may  be  placed 
in  a  cold  frame  subsequently.  The  seedlings 
should  be  pricked  off  into  other  pans  or  boxes  as 
soon  as  the  third  leaf  is  formed,  and  in  this  case 
rather  more  loam  should  be  used  in  the  compost. 
Fig.  2  shows  a  number  of  seedlings  pricked  off  in 
a  seed-pan.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  observe  a 
distance  between  the  seedlings  of  an  inch  or 
rather  more,  as  this  will  afford  ample  spacje  for 
their  development  until  the  young  plants  are 
placed  in  their  flowering  quarters.  When  spaca 
is  less  circumscribed  and  seed-pans  or  boxes  are 
plentiful,  I  should  be  disposed  to  allow  more 
space  between  the  seedling  plants.  The  pans  or 
boxes  should  be  returned  to  the  cold  frame  after 
they  are  filled  with  seedlings,  the  frame  being 
kept  fairly  close  for  a  day  or  so,  and  shaded  from 
bright    sunshine    should    this    be    experienced. 


.     -     ^  *      V  " 


2. — SOME     OF     THE     SEEDLINGS     PRICKED     OIF 
ABOUT    I    INCH   APART. 

Later  on  the  frame-lights  should  be  removed, 
gradually  at  first,  and  the  plants  inured  to  quite 
hardy  conditions. 

In  a  little  while  the  seedlings  will  develop  into 
sturdy  little  tufted  plants,  when  they  can  be 
planted  in  prepared  quarters  outdoors.  The 
ground  should  have  been  previously  deeply  dug 
and  heavily  manured,  and  the  surface  left  in  a 
rough  condition  for  a  time.  Previous  to  planting 
the  ground  should  be  broken  up  and  raked  over, 
and  the  hardened  plants  set  about  6  inches  or 
rather  more  apart,  as  represented  in  Fig.  3. 
Plants  such  as  these  give  a  sure  indication  ot 
promise,  as  a  reference  to  the  illustration  clearly 
reveals.  Plant  firmly  and  water  in  immediately 
subsequent  to  the  completion  of  the  planting. 
Seedling  Pansies  or  Violas  treated  as  described 


June  26,  1909.1 


THE    CtAKDEN. 


317 


in  these  notes  should  make  a  blaze  of  colour 
in  the  late  autumn  and  succeeding  spring. 
Fig.  4  portrays  the  beautiful  character  of  the 
display  resulting  from  plants  accorded  the  treat- 
ment I  have  mentioned.  D.  B.  C. 


BROMPTON    STOCKS   AND    THEIR 
CULTURE. 
Ax.L  who   appreciate   the  old-fashioned,   sweet- 
scented  flowers  will  regret  that  the  Brompton 


3. — SEEDLINGS   PLANTED   IN   THEIR   I'LOWJ- Rl.sc: 
QUARTERS   OUTDOORS. 

Stocks  are  not  grown  nearly  so  extensively  as 
they  were  some  years  ago,  and  it  is  rarely  that 
one  meets  with  really  good  specimens  outside 
those  old  country  cottage  gardens  where  fragrant 
beauties  of  a  bygone  age  are  treasured  and  appre- 
ciated. It  is  the  owners  or  occupants  of  such 
cottages,  too,  who  can  give  us  useful  hints  in  the 
culture  of  the  Brompton  Stocks. 

The  method  usually  adopted  by  these  growers 
is  simplicity  itself.  At  the  end  of  June  or  early 
in  .July  seeds  are  sown,  usually  in  a  narrow  border 
alongside  the  walls  of  the  house  and  in  a  sunny 
position,  the  seedlings  being  well  thinned  when 
they  are  large  enough  and  some  of  the  best  trans- 
planted to  other  situations.  In  these  quarters 
the  plants  remain  for  the  rest  of  their  lives,  and 
the  early  summer  following  that  in  which  the 
seeds  were  sown  brings  forth  an  abundance  of 
fragrant  and  welcome  blossoms.  The  above  is 
undoubtedly  a  rough-and-ready  method,  but  it 
usually  answers  well,  and  this  is,  after  all,  the 
real  test  of  any  cultural  system. 

There  are,  however,  many  amateurs  whose 
gardens  are  not  favourably  situated  for  growing 
Brompton  Stocks  in  this  way,  or  the  soil  may  be 
of  a  heavy,  wet,  retentive  character.  Under 
such  conditions  it  would,  of  course,  be  useless  to 
rely  on  the  above-named  simple  course.  In  such 
cases  a  cold  frame  is  a  most  valuable  aid,  and, 
given  this,  there  is  no  reason  why  everyone 
should  not  grow  some  of  these  plants.  Pans  well 
drained  are  the  best  for  sowing  the  seeds  in, 
filling  them  nearly  to  their  rims  with  finely  sifted 
soil  composed  of  loam  three  partp,  leaf-soil  one 
part,  and  sharp  sand  and  finely  crushed  old 
mortar  half  a  part  each.  The  seed  must  be  sown 
very  thinly  and  evenly  and  covered  with  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  of  fine,  sandy  soil.  After 
careful  watering  stand  the  pans  in  the  cold 
frame  and  cover  each  with  a  piece  of  glass  unti! 
germination  has  been  effected. 

Free  ventilation  must  be  afforded,  and  when 
about  2  inches  high  the  plants  may  be  eithei 
potted  singly  into  'i-inch  pots  or  planted  out  iu 
a  prepared  bed  in  the  open,  adopting  the  latter 
course  in  all  except  the  coldest  and  wettest 
gardens.  A  suitable  bed  can  be  prepared  in 
harsh  soil  by  adding  burnt  earth,  old  potting  soil, 
old  mortar  rubbieh  and  a  good  amount  of  road 
sand,  well  mixing  the  whole  together  and  work- 
ing it  thoroughly  into  the  natural  soil.  About 
9  inches  apart  is  a  good  distance  to  plant  and 
the  soil  must  be  made  very  firm,  slow,  hard 
growth  being  desirable.  In  the  case  of  plants  in 
pots,  use  similar  soil  to  that  advised  for  seed- 


sowing  and  pot  firmly.  The  plants  in  pots  will 
remain  in  the  cold  frame  all  the  winter  until 
planted  out  in  their  flowering  quarters  early  in 
March.  They  will  probably  need  pots  5  inches 
in  diameter  about  the  end  of  August  or  early  in 
September,  but  this  will  depend  on  the  progress 
made ;  quick,  sappy  growth  must  be  strictly 
avoided.  H. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Mulching.— The  value  of  a  good  mulch  in  hot 
weather  cannot  very  well  be  over-estimated.  It 
does  good  in  several  ways,  saves  many  plants 
from  being  absolute  failures,  increases  the  crops 
of  others  and  is  economical,  in  that  much 
valuable  time  and  labour  are  saved.  Now,  we 
will  just  consider  how  mulches  may  be  best 
applied  and  the  various  kinds  of  material  that 
may  be  used  in  this  way.  Of  course,  people 
dwelling  in  towns  are  not  always  able  to  com- 
mand an  unlimited  supply  of  half-rotted  manure, 
which  forms  such  a  fine  mulch  for  many  kinds 
of  plants  growing  in  poor  soils  ;  but  some  are, 
and  in  such  instances  the  manure  ought  to 
be  used,  mixing  with  it  in  equal  proportion 
some  good  fibrous  loam  reduced  to  a  rather  fine 
condition.  A  mulch  of  this  kind  is  very  bene- 
ficial to  plants  growing  in  pots  and  tubs  where 
the  rooting  medium  for  the  plants  is  strictly 
limited.  Wakeley's  Hop  Manure  is  excellent 
for  the  purpose.  Then,  no  doubt,  many  amateurs 
have  heaps  of  old  potting  soils  and  similar  com- 
posts lying  about,  and  these  also  may  be  put  on  as 
a  mulch  ;  especially  doee  this  prove  beneficial 
when  neatly  placed  on  the  surface  of  the  borders 
among  the  bedding  plants  directly  after  a  shower 
of  rain.  Coeoanut  fibre  refuse  is  not  expensive,  and 
can  be  purchased  from  horticultural  sundrieamen. 
It  forms  a  very  suitable  mulch  or  top-dressing 
for  putting  on  flower-beds  in  the  front  garden 
where  a  strictly  neat  appearance  must  be  main- 
tained. A  dressing  about  1  inch  deep  will  be 
sufiicient  to  keep  the  roots  cool  and  so  promote 
growths  in  the  plants.  For  the  rows  of  Peas, 
Beans  and  similar  crops  growing  in  the  vegetable 
garden  manure  mulches  are  the  best ;  but  for 
this  purpose  all  lawn  mowings  and  sweepings 
from  the  garden  paths  must  be  employed  and 
not  put  away  in  the  dustbins. 

Plants   in   Vases.— For  a  short   time  after 
such  plants  as  Zotial  Pelargoniums,  Ivy-leaved 


varieties.  Petunias  and  Marguerite  Daisies  are 
put  out,  the  leaves  will,  in  many  cases  where  the 
'position  is  an  exposed  one,  turn  rather  yellow  in 
colour  and  some  of  the  most  forward  of  the 
flowers  become  seared  in  appearance.  Now, 
very  careful  watering  is  absolutely  necessary. 
If  the  plants  in  the  boxes  and  vases  are  watered 
as  carefully  as  when  they  were  growing  in  the 
pots  prior  to  being  put  out,  a  free,  clean  growth 
will  soon  result.  Central  plants  must  be  duly 
staked  and  all  faded  flowers  and  badly  damaged 
leaves  removed  forthwith. 

Sweet  Peas. — I  do  not  remember  having  seen 
before  so  many  green  aphides  on  these  plants  as  I 
have  this  year.  The  main  branches  have  not  been 
infested  as  much  as  the  side  shoots,  and  the  latter 
have  in  many  instances  been  quite  hidden  with 
the  insects.  Of  course,  the  hot  and  dry  spell 
of  weather  in  May  has  been  most  favourable  for 
the  spread  of  the  pests.  The  recent  rains  have 
washed  the  plants  comparatively  clean ;  but  they 
have  received  a  serious  check,  and  no  time  must 
be  lost  in  inducing  a  more  vigorous  growth. 
Two  ounces  of  superphosphate  per  yard  run  of 
row  must  be  applied  at  or.ee  and  duly  watered 
in.  If  the  soil  is  dry,  water  with  clear  water 
before  applying  the  superphosphate,  and  take 
very  great  care  not  to  touch  the  plants  with  the 
latter.  One  week  after  applying  the  above 
stimulant  give  2oz.  of  nitrate  of  soda  to  2  yards 
run  of  row.  Dissolve  2oz.  of  phosphate  of  potash 
in  3  gallons  of  water  and  apply  the  liquid  the 
week  following  the  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda. 
The  nitrate  may  be  applied  in  liquid  form,  too, 
Uz.  to  2  gallons  of  water  being  a  suitable 
quantity  to  use.  Pour  the  liquid  on  quite 
■4  inches  away  from  the  base  of  the  haulm.  If 
any  of  these  manures  are  so  applied  that  they 
come  into  direct  contact  with  the  haulm  and 
roots,  the  plants  will  be  more  damaged  than 
benefited.  During  the  months  of  July  and 
August  the  Sweet  Peas  will  form  a  very 
attractive  feature  in  the  town  garden,  besides 
being  so  very  useful  for  the  supply  of  out 
blooms. 

Flowering  Shrubs.— As  flowering  shrubs, 
such  as  those  of  Rhododendrons  and  Azaleas, 
lose  their  blossoms,  all  seed-pods  ought  to  be 
picked  o8F,  as  the  removal  of  the  latter  gives  a 
tidy  appearance  to  the  bushes  and  encourages  a 
free  growth  of  young  wood.  While  engaged  in 
taking  ofl'  the  seed-vessels,  every  care  must  be 
exercised  so  that  the  young  shoots  do  not  get 
pulled  off  at  the  same  time.  Avon. 


4. — A   BED   OF   SEEDLING    PANSIES   FROM    SEEDS   SOWN   LAST  SUMMER. 


318 


THE     GARDEN. 


[Junk  26,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR  THE  SOUTH  AND  SOUTH 

MIDLANDS. 

Flower  Garden. 

HOLLYHOCKS.— To  obtaia  strong, 
healthy  plants  for  flowering  next 
year  a  sowing  of  seed  may  now  be 
made  on  a  south  border  in  drills 
1  foot  apart  and  about  2  inches  deep. 
Let  the  bed  be  well  prepared  and 
made  moderately  firm  defore  drawing  the  drills. 
Scatter  the  seed  thinly  and  evenly  and  cover  up 
with  rather  finely  sifted  soil.  To  hasten 
germination  in  hot,  dry  weather  and  to  preserve 
moisture,  lay  a  few  mats  over  the  beds,  and 
remove  them  as  soon  as  the  young  seedlings 
appear  through  the  soil.  Sow  also  Wallflowers 
and  Forget-me-nots  for  flowering  next  spring. 

Primroses. — To  establish  a  good  stock  of  these 
it  will  be  necessary  to  sow  the  seed  at  once 
either  in  well-prepared  beds  or  in  shallow  boxes. 
If  in  the  latter,  let  the  boxes  be  well  drained  and 
filled  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top  with  good  soil 
pressed  rather  firm.  Cover  the  seed  lightly  and 
stand  the  boxes  in  cold  frames  kept  close  and 
shaded  in  bright  weather.  If  frames  are  not 
available,  place  squares  of  glass  over  the  boxes 
until  the  seedlings  appear.  If  pricked  out  on  a 
suitable  border  at  a  later  date,  a  good  stock  of 
plants  may  soon  be  reared. 

Aquilegias. — These  may  be  raised  in  the  open, 
the  seed  germinating  freely  if  good,  and  from 
these  some  exceptionally  useful  plants  can  be 
raised  for  flowering  next  year. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Strawberries. — Keep  the  beds  free  from  weeds 
and  remove  runners,  excepting  where  stock  plants 
are  wanted.  See  that  the  fruits  are  well 
provided  with  clean  straw  or  some  other  sweet 
material  to  rest  upon,  and  employ  nets  early  as 
a  protection  against  birds.  Plants  growing  on  a 
warm  border,  if  large  fruits  are  wanted,  will 
benefit  greatly  from  a  few  applications  of  manure 
water,  and  in  some  cases  the  trusses  may  be 
thinned  with  advantage. 

Raspberries. — See  that  the  roots  of  all  per- 
manent fruiting  canes  are  well  mulched  with 
decayed  manure,  excepting  where  the  soil 
is  very  heavy  and  the  growth  inclines  to 
coarseness.  Pull  up  useless  suckers,  leaving  only 
those  which  will  be  wanted  for  the  following 
year's  crop.  In  cases  where  it  is  intended  to 
increase  the  stock,  the  young  green  shoots  may 
be  planted  in  nursery  beds  on  a  north  border, 
or  sutlioient  may  be  left  by  the  side  of  the  old 
canes  to  be  taken  off  and  planted  at  a  later  date. 

Gooseberries  Jor  Dessert. — To  increase  the  size 
of  the  fruits  feed  the  roots  at  intervals  and 
mulch  well  beneath  the  bushes  with  manure,  over 
which  place  a  little  long  litter  to  preserve  the 
berries  from  being  splashed  with  soil.  Keep 
the  land  free  from  weeds  and  net  early. 

Vegetable    Garden. 

Keep  the  hoe  freely  going  among  all  growing 
crops,  both  for  the  destruction  of  weeds  and  to 
assist  growth.  Thin  out  all  plants  that  are 
growing  too  thickly.  Onions,  Carrots,  Parsnips 
and  Beet  should  be  allowed  ample  room  if  fine 
roots  are  required.  Sow  more  Early  Nantes 
Carrotsfordrawing  young.orsome  other  approved 
variety,  and  get  out  as  fast  as  possible  all  winter 
vegetables  and  sow  a  bed  of  Coleworts.  These 
will  be  exceedingly  valuable  for  filling  up  spare 
plots,  and  be  of  great  service  where  a  large 
demand  for  vegetables  arises  daily. 

Asparagus. — Weed  the  beds  now  that  cutting 
has  ceased  and  sprinkle  with  salt.  In  dry 
weather  a  few  applications  of  liquid  manure  will 
prove  valuable.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Oarde^it,  Bamet. 


FOR  THE  NORTH  AND  NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Hardy  Frcits. 
Strawberries. — Though  somewhat  later  than 
usual,  the  recent  rainfall  and  warmer  weather 
have  greatly  assisted  the  fruit,  and  protection 
from  birds  is  now  necessary.  In  private  gardens 
this  is  generally  done  by  means  of  herring- 
netting,  which,  if  possible,  should  be  suspended 
upon  a  light  framework,  or  stakes  at  intervals 
and  cord  or  wire  connexions  answer  very  well. 
If  the  plantation  is  surrounded  by  wire-netting 
2  feet  or  more  in  depth,  to  which  the  string- 
netting  may  be  secured,  its  effectiveness  is 
greatly  enhanced. 

Pears  and  Apples  appear  to  have  set  well,  and 
thinning  of  the  fruit  should  be  carried  out  as 
soon  as  the  best  placed  and  most  shapely  can  be 
discerned. 

Insect  Pests  may  now  be  expected  to  become 
numerous,  and  timely  measures  for  their  destruc- 
tion should  be  undertaken.  Red  spider  is  the 
most  frequent  of  any,  particularly  so  upon  trees 
against  walls — Apples,  Pears  and  Plums.  Any 
one  of  the  advertised  insecticides  applied 
according  to  the  printed  directions  issued  with 
each  package  may  be  relied  upon  to  effect  a 
cure  ;  or,  failing  in  this,  such  home  productions 
as  soap  and  water  or  weak  solutions  of  paraffin 
emulsion  applied  to  the  foliige  with  the  syringe 
in  the  after-part  of  the  day  will  check  the 
ravages  if  not  completely  exterminate  the  foes. 

Cherries  of  the  dessert  type  are  very  subject 
to  attacks  of  black  fly  or  aphis,  and  in  some 
seasons  more  than  others.  If  not  checked  in 
good  time,  the  exudation  from  this  insect  may 
render  the  crop  worthless,  and,  as  strong 
measures  are  required,  the  necessary  cleansing 
should  be  carried  out  before  the  fruit  commences 
to  ripen.  The  points  of  the  shoots,  which 
usually  are  the  harbouring  places  of  the  insect, 
may  first  of  all  be  removed,  as  well  as  any  curled 
leaves,  after  which  every  part  of  the  tree  may 
be  moistened  with  some  approved  wash,  to  be 
followed  a  few  hours  afterwards  with  a  douche 
of  clean  water  forcibly  applied  through  the 
garden  engine. 

Indoor  Fruit  Department. 

Orapes. — The  final  thinning  of  all  late  varie- 
ties must  shortly  take  place.  It  is  advisable  to 
do  this  more  severely  than  with  the  early  and 
midseason  sorts,  and  also  to  clear  most  of  the 
berries  from  within  the  bunches,  as  owing  to  the 
length  of  time  these  are  kept  after  attaining 
maturity  the  risk  of  decay  and  diificulty  of 
removal  warrant  this  course.  Large  bunches 
may  require  the  shoulders  to  be  slightly  raised 
by  passing  a  strip  of  matting  around  the  stem 
and  securing  it  to  the  wires  above. 

Figs. — Figs  upon  early  started  pot  trees  will 
now  be  ripe,  and  more  air  must  be  admitted  to 
the  house  to  prevent  the  fruits  cracking.  When 
all  are  gathered,  the  trees  may  have  rough 
growths  pruned  away  and  others  of  the  current 
season  tied  in  their  places.  If  a  second  crop  is 
anticipated,  the  trees  must  be  kept  under  cover  ; 
but  as  planted-out  stock  will  in  most  cases  give 
sufficient  succession,  pot  trees  maybe  encouraged 
by  liberal  treatment  to  make  fresh  growth  by 
being  plunged  in  a  warm,  sheltered  situation 
and  well  watered  and  syringed. 

Melons. — As  the  earliest  crops  are  cleared  the 
house  may  be  cleaned,  some  fresh  soil  added  to 
the  beds  and  young  plants  be  again  inserted. 
Continue  to  fertilise  blooms  upon  successional 
crops  whenever  six  or  eight  can  be  obtained  at 
about  one  stage.  Close  the  house  early  in  the 
afternoon,  more  especially  if  fire-heat  is  now 
dispensed  with.  The  latter  course  may  answer 
well  in  dry,  warm  weather  ;  but  if  the  reverse  of 
this,  fires  should  again  be  started,  or  canker  and 
other  evils  are  almost  certain  to  prevail. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway. ) 

OaiUnoay  House,  Oarlieaton,  Wigtovmahire. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Answeps.— TA^  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  7natter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"  Ansjoers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  coimnunica- 
tions  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  Thb 
Garden,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  iotidon, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHER. 
'Ihe  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Pseonies  not  flowepingp  {M.  Sail).— 
The  plants  are  evidently  in  a  weak  condition,  and 
the  only  hope  of  recovering  their  vigour  is  in 
lifting  and  dividing  in  August  next  and  replanting 
them  in  good  and  very  rich,  deep  soil.  The  plants 
must  be  divided  very  freely,  as  it  will  not  do  the 
least  good  to  replant  them  in  large  clumps.  For 
flowering  each  year  these  Pseonies  are  dependent 
on  the  good  growth  of  a  previous  season,  and  it 
will  probably  take  a  year  or  two  before  the 
plants  fully  regain  their  strength.  We  may 
possibly  publish  an  article  dealing  with  the 
plants  later  on,  which  might  be  of  service  to  you. 

Migrnon  Dahlias  {O.  r.).— Unless  the 
term  "  Mignon  "  has  been  used  by  the  French  as 
applied  to  a  section  of  Dahlias,  we  are  not  aware 
that  the  term  has  been  used  by  British  growers. 
We  have  a  section  called  Pompon  Dahlias  ;  that 
term,  probably,  comprises  the  other  you  mention. 
But  Pompon  Dahlias,  also  sometimes  termed 
Bouquet  Dahlias,  are  abundant,  and  can  be  had 
from  any  Dahlia  florist.  The  section  has  very 
double  flowers  like  those  of  the  large  show 
Dahlias,  but  they  are  very  small.  They  are 
borne  on  stiff,  erect  stems,  and  are  produced  in 
great  abundance.  They  are  the  best  for  garden 
decoration  and  also  to  supply  flowers  for  cutting. 
Any  florist  in  Leeds  should  be  able  to  supply  you. 

Carnation  layep  not  rooting:  well 

(G.  J.  H.). — The  Carnations  sent  appear  to  be 
badly  attacked  with  that  troublesome  pest,  the 
eel  worm,  which  is  difficult — indeed,  almost  impos- 
sible— to  get  rid  of.  The  only  reliable  thing 
is  to  burn  all  the  plants,  obtain  a  fresh  stock 
and  plant  them  as  far  as  possible  from  any 
ground  previously  occupied  by  Carnations.  The 
conditions  stated  by  you  are  all  unfavourable  for 
the  development  of  Carnations  and  decidedly 
favourable  to  the  many  pests  with  which  they 
are  troubled.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that 
though  the  protection  of  a  cold  frame  may  be  of 
great  advantage  to  Carnations  during  the  winter, 
yet  they  should  have  plenty  of  air  whenever 
possible  throughout  that  period. 

Carnations  [S.  K.  T.).— There  is  no 
Carnation  show  held  in  your  district  that  we 
know  of,  though  there  are  many  flower  shows  in 
the  districts  near  and  around — for  instance,  the 
Hospital  Floral  Fete  at  Kingston,  on  July  7  ; 
Teddington  Flower  Show,  July  15  ;  while  Esher, 
Twickenham  and  other  places  have  their  summer 
show,  and  Carnations  are,  or  may  be,  displayed 
at  any  of  these.  If  when  the  layers  are  removed 
there  remain  a  sufficient  number  of  shoots  on  the 
old  Carnation  plants  to  make  it  worth  while  to 
retain  them,  by  all  means  do  so ;  but  with  all 
available  grass  used  in  the  layering  process  there 
would  be  nothing  worth  saving.  In  the  case  of 
new  or  choice  varieties,  any  small  pieces  that 
remain  may  be  utilised  as  cuttings,  pulling  the 
shoots  off  the  old  stem  with  a  heel  attached  and 
inserting  them  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame. 
Such  cuttings  as  these  will  form  roots  during  the 
winter. 


June  26,  1909. 


I'HE     GARDEN. 


319 


Paeony  seedlings  [N.  ff.)-— We  do  not 

quite  see  how  you  have  become  possessed  of  the 
seedlings.  You  say  you  had  three  plants,  but 
only  one  oame  up,  and  this  has  produced  but  one 
flower,  which  you  picked  to  prevent  its  running 
to  seed ;  hence  we  conclude  that  what  you 
regard  as  "seedlings"  are  the  root  pieces  of  those 
you  imagined  were  dead,  and  which,  as  is  by 
no  means  uncommon  among  these  flowers,  are 
springing  into  life.  If  this  be  so,  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  plants  may  not  make  flowering 
examples  in  time  with  proper  care  and  treat- 
ment. But  what  of  the  original  plant  that  did 
flower  ?  If  this  has  declined  in  vigour  instead  of 
becoming  established ,  there  is  either  neglect  or  a 
wrong  method  of  treatment,  of  which  we  have 
no  information.  These  Pseonies  require  very 
generous  treatment,  deeply  cultivated  and  well- 
enriched  soils,  and  where  such  exist  the  plants 
do  not  object  to  rather  heavy  soils.  Above  all, 
it  is  important  that  the  planting  or  replanting 
should  be  done  in  the  early  autumn,  September 
being  the  best  month  for  the  purpose.  If  you 
attend  to  these  particulars  and  add  grit  or  sand 
to  your  soil,  you  may  still  make  of  failure  a 
brilliant  success. 

Pond  weed  (Panto). — We  should  imagine  the  use  of 
the  sulphate  of  copper  safe  enough  so  far  as  the  river  is 
concerned  and  at  the  distance  you  describe  ;  but  in  the 
pond  itself  or  in  its  immediate  vicinity  there  may  be 
danger  lurking.  At  the  same  time,  seeing  that  the 
sulphate  would,  in  a  large  degree,  be  precipitated  to  the 
bottom  of  the  pond,  the  escaping  portion  would  not  be 
great  and  the  injurious  effects  small.  At  the  same  time, 
it  would  be  better  to  observe  caution  in  the  matter  and 
experiment  in  a  small  way  before  treating  the  whole  of  the 
water  of  the  pond. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 
Ppuning  Standard  Lilacs  (C.  P. 

Gobham). — As  soon  as  the  flowers  fade  on  your 
Lilacs,  remove  them  down  to  the  first  strong 
young  shoots.  Should  the  plants  contain  a 
lot  of  weak  branches,  remove  the  inside  ones  so 
that  the  main  branches  may  obtain  the  maximum 
amount  of  light  and  air.  In  the  event  of  a  great 
many  young  shoots  being  formed,  remove  a  few 
here  and  there  from  each  branch,  so  that  all  the 
strength  may  be  kept  for  those  shoots  that  are 
really  required.  If  your  plants  are  moderately 
vigorous,  do  not  over-thin  them.  Keep  a  sharp 
look-out  for  suckers,  and  remove  them  as  they 
appear.  A  surface-dressing  of  rotten  farmyard 
manure  will  do  good. 

Box  dyiniT  {Boothio).  — A  puzzling  question,  the 
only  answer  to  which  we  can  suggest  is  that  the  trouble 
with  the  Box  is  caused  by  the  cold  weather  in  winter. 
For  this  no  remedy  can  be  advised. 

Flovireps  of  the  Slbepian  Cpab  fop 
inspection  {Buxton  Shillitoe).  —  The  semi-double 
flowers  of  your  Siberian  Crab  are  very  pretty.  Abnormal 
flowers  such  as  you  send  are  occasionally  produced  by 
this  and  other  species  of  Crab.  It  is  just  possible  that 
you  may  be  able  to  perpetuate  the  sport  by  taking  buds 
from  the  branches  producing  the  semi-double  flowers  and 
budding  them  on  ordinary  Apple  stocks. 


ROSE  GARDEN. 
Ppuning  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay 
after  flowering  (-S^-  S-  /.).  —  The  fine, 
strong  growth  you  allude  to  may  be  shortened  a 
little  as  soon  as  the  blooms  are  over.  Cut  it 
back  to  the  first  plump-looking  bud.  We  presume 
you  wish  the  plant  to  climb  upon  the  wall  of  the 
greenhouse.  Should  you  desire  to  keep  it  dwarf, 
you  may  out  back  to  about  2  feet  from  the  base 
or  bend  the  growth  horizontally,  when  it  will 
throw  out  blooms  from  each  eye.  Gottfried 
Keller  is  quite  hardy.  For  its  exquisitely  coloured 
buds  and  perpetual  flowering  quality  this  Rose 
is  highly  esteemed  by  all  lovers  of  single  Roses. 
Perhaps  your  soil  is  too  shallow  for  the  Hybrid 
Teas.  In  order  that  they  may  thrive  well  the 
roots  should  have  ample  depth  of  soil.  We  think 
the  absence  of  this  is  more  the  cause  ef  their 
failure  to  grow  than  the  windswept  position  of 
your  garden.  Could  you  not  put  up  a  wind 
screen,  such  as  some  wattled  httrdles?  This  could 
be  covered  with  wichuraiana  Roses,  which  you 
say  thrive  so  well,  and  your  Hybrid  Teas  would 


have  a  partial  shelter.  We  agree  with  you  as  to 
the  beauty  of  Azalea  rustica  flore-pleno ;  they 
are  double-flowered  hybrids  of  Azalea  mollis. 
Many  of  the  charming  deciduous  flowering  shrubs 
are  not  grown  nearly  so  much  as  they  deserve 
to  be. 

Rose  toliage  damaged  by  insects 

{B.  D.). — The  little  green  caterpillar  that  causes 
the  damage  to  the  foliage  is  the  larvae  of  one  of 
the  sawflies,  and  known  as  the  Rose  slugworm. 
It  devours  the  upper  epidermis  and  tissues  of 
the  foliage,  and  leaves  undamaged  the  lower  skin. 
The  leaves  become  blotched,  then  white,  then 
brown  and  shrivel  up.  It  can  be  killed  by  spray- 
ing the  bushes  with  Hellebore  wash  made  up  as 
follows  :  loz.  of  fresh  ground  Hellebore,  2oz.  of 
flour,  three  gallons  of  water.  The  Hellebore  and 
flour  are  mixed  together,  then  mixed  with  the 
water.  Keep  it  well  stirred,  and  distribute  with  a 
fine  sprayer.  The  little  white  insect  is  thrip, 
and  its  appearance  usually  follows  a  spell  of  dry 
weather.  The  above-named  wash  will  exter- 
minate this  pest  also  if  well  persevered  with.  It 
will  be  best  to  spray  in  the  evening. 

Pillap  Roses  with  lapg'e  and  full  floweps 

(Lindsay  Altai-dice). — It  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  recom- 
mend a  free-flowering  Rose  having  large  and  full  blooms, 
borne  on  single  stems  and  not  in  clusters.  Even  IU)8eB 
such  as  Mme.  Hector  Leuilliot  are  produced  in  large 
clusters  at  times,  but,  of  course,  this  can  be  remedied  by 
disbudding.  Eight  good  varieties  would  be  Climbing 
Caroline  Testout,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Ulrich  Brunner, 
Hugh  Dickson,  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  Margaret  Dickson, 
Le  Soleil  and  Mme.  Berard.  The  Roses  you  name  are 
fairly  free  flowering,  but  we  think  the  above-named  eight 
w»uld  give  you  most  satisfaction. 

Rose  fop  naming  (G.  Bnttan  Gill).— The  name  of 
the  Rose  bloom  sent  is  Cheshunt  Hybrid.  It  is  a  flne  red 
Rose,  especially  suitable  for  an  unheated  greenhouse. 
Under  glass  one  does  not  obtain  the  rather  dull  colour 
which  the  blooms  assume  outdoors.  It  belongs  to  the 
Hybrid  Tea  section.  We  should  advise  you  to  go  over 
the  plant  and  cut  back  the  growths  that  have  bloomed  to 
the  first  plump  eye  or  bud  below  where  the  bloom  was. 
If  there  are  old,  worn-out  growths,  these  can  be  removed- 
now  right  down  to  the  base  of  the  plant.  Spread  out  all 
remaining  growths  as  much  as  practicable  to  give  the 
maximum  amount  of  light,  and  keep  the  plant  well 
syringed  each  morning  and  afternoon,  except  when  the 
weather  is  dull  and  showery.  The  border  should  be 
soaked  at  once  with  liquid  manure  of  good  strength  or 
dressed  with  some  good  fertiliser  and  well  watered  in. 
When  the  second  crop  of  bloom-buds  is  seen,  plenty  of  air 
should  be  given  to  strengthen  them,  and  towards  autumn 
let  the  plant  have  abundance  of  air  night  and  day  and  keep 
the  soil  on  the  dry  side.  This  will  ripen  the  wood,  which 
is  so  essential  for  a  good  blooming  next  spring. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Wliat   are    Rex   Begonias?  &e. 

[A.  S. ,  Cape  Colony). — Correctly  speaking,  there  is 
no  difference  between  Rex  Begonias  and  fibrous- 
rooted  ones,  as  all  those  of  the  Rex  section  have 
fibrous  roots.  Furthermore,  the  different  classes 
of  Begonias  cross  and  intercross  with  each  other, 
so  that  no  hard-and-fast  line  can  be  drawn 
between  the  sections.  Begonia  Rex  and  its 
numerous  varieties  are  characterised  by  stout 
creeping  rhizomes  and  finely  marked  foliage, 
more  or  less  hairy.  There  need  be  no  difficulty 
with  this  class,  but  the  case  is  different  where 
these  have  been  crossed  with  some  of  the  other 
forms.  Of  those  concerning  which  you  enquire, 
the  first  may  be  Begonia  nitida  ;  the  second  and 
smaller  one,  with  some  of  the  leaves  spotted,  is, 
doubtless,  Begonia  Dregei ;  while  we  think  the 
third  is  Begonia  semperflorens.  This  is  repre- 
sented by  many  different  varieties,  some  of  which 
are  very  dwarf.  These  dwarf  varieties  of 
B.  semperflorens  are  largely  used  for  bedding, 
and  in  some  of  them  the  leaves,  when  exposed  to 
the  summer's  sun,  acquire  a  brilliant  red  colour. 
Tuberous  Begonias,  too,  in  this  country  are 
bedded  out  in  very  large  numbers.  In  drawing 
up  a  schedule  of  prizes  for  Begonias,  you  might 
thus  classify  them:  1,  Begonias  grown  for 
their  handsome  foliage ;  2,  Begonias  (excluding 
tuberous-rooted  varieties)  grown  for  the  sake 
of  their  flowers ;  .3,  Begonias,  tuberous  rooted 
varieties.  In  this  country  prizes  are,  during  the 
autumn  and  winter  months,  frequently  offered 
for  that  popular  variety  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  and 


should  you  intend  to  do  the  same.  Section  2  must 
read :  Excluding  tuberous-rooted  varieties  and 
Gloire  de  Lorraine.  This  would  mean  the 
formation  of  Section  4  to  read  thus :  4,  For 
specimens  of  Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine.  In 
this  country  the  prizes  are  usually  offered  for  six 
plants  of  this  last-named. 

Treatment  of  Malmaison  Carna- 
tions ( Thanks).  — In  the  ease  of  the  Carnations 
with  a  number  of  weak  grassy  shoots,  you  may 
thin  them  out  severely  in  order  to  throw  more 
strength  into  the  buds,  which  should  then  increase 
in  size.  As  you  need  only  one  or  two  layers  and 
wish  to  retain  the  old  plants,  you  could,  in  all 
probability,  build  up  a  little  mound  of  fibrous 
loam  and  sand  on  the  top  of  the  pot  and  layer  the 
shsot  therein.  In  doing  this  you  should  not 
select  a  shoot  whose  removal  will  destroy  the 
symmetrical  character  of  the  old  plant.  Loam, 
as  generally  understood  by  gardeners,  is  the  top 
spit  from  a  pasture  field.  For  potting  purposes 
it  needs  to  be  stacked  at  least  a  year  before 
using  in  order  to  kill  the  roots  of  the  grass. 
Loams  vary  greatly  in  character  and  in  colour. 
What  is  termed  yellow  loam  is  in  great  demand 
for  plants  in  pots.  This  is,  in  most  eases,  of  a 
rather  heavy  nature,  and  for  many  plants  needs 
te  be  lightened  by  an  admixture  of  leaf-mould, 
peat  and  sand.  Loam  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  Reigate  in  Surrey  is  largely  used  around 
London. 

How  to  grow  Geraniums  (Mis» 
E.  H.).  — For  the  successful  culture  of  Geraniums 
a  free  circulation  of  air  is  necessary,  and  it  is 
probable  that  your  conservatory  is  kept  too  close. 
This  is  borne  out  by  the  high  day  temperature 
stated  by  you.  No  hard-and-fast  line  can  be  laid 
down  as  to  how  often  they  should  b»  watered,  as 
so  much  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  pots,  con- 
dition of  the  roots,  situation  the  plants  occupy,, 
the  weather  and  other  particulars.  It  may  be 
that  twice  a  week  will  be  ample,  while,  on  the 
other  hand,  they  may  require  water  daily.  The 
soil  should  always  be  kept,  as  far  as  possible,  in 
a  fairly  moist  condition  ;  certainly  the  leaves 
must  not  be  allowed  to  droop  before  water  i» 
given.  When  the  pots  are  well  furnished  with 
roots,  a  dose  of  weak  liquid  manure  about  once  a 
fortnight  will  be  beneficial.  The  best  time  to 
water  Geraniums  during  the  summer  months  is- 
in  the  evening,  but  in  the  winter  the  morning 
should  be  preferred  for  the  purpose.  At  that 
season  it  is  a  great  advantage  for  superabundant 
moisture  to  dry  up  before  night,  whereas  in  hot 
weather  the  plants  absorb  moisture  more  readily 
during  the  night-time. 

Capnatlon  leaves  diseased  (J.  R  ).— Many  of 
the  Carnatiou  leaves  you  sent  were  attacked  by  what  Is 
commonly  termed  spot,  a  fungoid  disease,  and  besides 
this  they  appear  to  have  been  very  badly  treated.  As  you, 
however,  give  us  no  details  of  culture,  we  are  decidedly- 
handicapped  in  giving  our  advice.  Spot  is,  as  a  rule,  most 
troublesome  when  the  plants  are  subjected  to  cold  and- 
damp.  Light  and  air  will  do  a  good  deal  to  keep  it  at 
bay,  but  once  the  plants  are  attacked  it  is  difficult  to 
eradicate.  The  most  effectual  plan  is  to  remove  the 
diseased  leaves,  burn  them  and  dust  the  plants  lightly 
with  black  sulphur.  Judging  by  the  condition  of  the 
leaves  sent,  we  advise  you  to  burn  your  plants  and  start 
with  some  clean  ones. 

FRUIT    GARDEN. 
To  prevent  an  attacic  of  mildew 

on  Vines  (0-  E.  B.,  Kent). — The  wise  pre- 
caution you  have  taken  in  ventilating  your 
vinery  in  opening  only  those  ventilators  which 
are  opposite  to  the  wind  has,  so  far,  no  doubt 
helped  to  secure  your  Vines  immunity  from 
attack.  By  continuing  to  do  this  for  a  couple  of 
months  longer  we  hope  you  may  succeed  in 
averting  an  attack  altogether,  as  the  most  dan- 
gerous time  for  its  visitation  will  then  be  past. 
Fluctuations  in  the  weather  from  sudden  heat  to 
sudden  cold,  and  vice  verad,  are  frequent  causes 
of  mildew.  We  would  advise  you  to  keep  a  sharp- 
look-out  for  its  appearance,  and  if  discovered  to 
immediately  apply  flowers  of  sulphur  to  the  parts 
affected,  whether  the  foliage  or  the  bunches.     In 


320 


THE    GAEDEN. 


IJUNE  26,  1909. 


this  way  the  fungus  may  be  killed  before  it  has 
time  to  spread  and  the  damage  be  very  much 
minimised ;  whereas,  if  this  precaution  is  not 
taken  it  will  most  likely  quickly  spread  over  the 
whole  vinery,  and  that  in  a  very  short  space  of 
time.  Vines  once  affected  with  mildew  are  more 
liable  to  attack  than  are  those  which  have  been 
free. 

Ooosebeppy   bushes    unsatlsfactopy   (T. 

Milnes  Favell).~The  bushes  are  attacked  by  red  spider, 
and  should  he  sprayed  (unless  the  fruit  is  to  he  picked 
immediately)  with  loz.  of  potassium  sulphide  dissolved  in 
two  gallons  of  water. 

Diseased  Fig  leaves  (J.  Romanes). — The  cause 
of  the  brown  spotting  of  the  leaves  of  the  Fig  is  obscure, 
but  it  appears  probable  that  it  is  due  to  a  bacillus,  which 
als*  attacks  the  stem.  If  all  the  diseased  portions  of  the 
branches  are  cut  out  during  the  resting  period  and  pre- 
cautions are  taken  to  disinfect  the  knife  after  making  a 
-cut,  the  disease  may  be  overcome.  It  is  probable  that 
.insects  carry  the  disease  germs  from  one  place  to  another. 

Apple  shoots  diseased  (0.  F.  E.).—The  Apple 
shoots  are  attacked  by  the  Apple  mildew  (Sphierotheca 
mali),  a  fungus  that  is  perennial  in  the  tissues  of  the  shoots. 
The  pieces  attacked  should  be  pruned  off  as  soon  as 
possible  and  burned  at  once.  To  stop  the  spread  of  the 
attack  it  would  be  well  to  spray  the  tree  with  a  solution 
■of  potassium  sulphide,  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to  three  gallons 
of  water.  The  shoots  should  be  cut  off  about  half  an  inch 
below  the  point  attacked. 

Injupy  to  old  Ooosebeppy  and  Cuppant 
-busnes  {Mrs.  Marskall).~Thia  kind  of  injury  is  not 
-uncommon  in  old  Gooseberry  and  Currant  bushes.  The 
worst  bushes  should  be  taken  up  and  the  roots  examined  ; 
if  they  are  sound  the  injury  is  probably  caused  by 
deficiency  of  lime  in  the  soil.  Dress  the  ground  with 
•three  bags  of  soot  mixed  with  an  equal  amount  of  lime, 
^and  repeat  in  three  weeks'  time  ;  this  will  most  likely 
effect  a  cure.— G.  S.  S. 

Peap  leaves  bUsteped  (A.  L.  P.).— The  little 
blisters  on  the  Pear  leaves  are  due  to  tbe  attack  of  the 
IPear-leaf  blister  mite.  This  mite  attacks  the  leaves  when 
very  young  in  the  bud  sti^e.  Where  the  attack  is  a  bad 
•one,  the  trees  should  be  heavily  sprayed  in  the  winter 
with  a  wash  made  by  mixing  31b.  of  lime  and  lib.  of 
caustic  soda  together  and  slaking  with  hot  water  in  which 
31b.  of  flowers  of  sulphur  have  been  mixed  ;  stir  and  add 
■31b.  of  salt,  allowing  the  mixture  to  boil  for  some  time, 
>then  make  up  to  ten  gallons  with  water. 

Peach-leaf  bllstep  (A/rs.  C.).— The  Peach  leaves 
sent  show  them  to  be  badly  attacked  by  what  is  known  as 
•curl  or  blister.  It  is  a  common  product  of  cold  following 
on  warmth,  the  low  temperatures  evidently  bursting  the 
leaf  cells  and  thus  causing  tbe  curl  or  swellings  seen.  It 
is  also  attributed  to  a  fungus,  which,  if  a  certain  solution 
be  sprayed  over  the  trees  before  the  foliage  opens,  checks 
the  curl.  It  is,  however,  noticeable  that  blister  or  curl 
never  appears  on  Peach  or  Nectarine  trees  that  are  grown 
•under  glass.  But  it  is  most  probable  that  a  fungus 
attacks  the  leaves  after  the  curl  is  formed,  because  such 
-diseases  as  a  rule  follow  quickly  when  vegetation  is  at  all 
injured.  Piok  off  all  injured  leaves  and  burn  them  ; 
■others  that  are  uninjured  will  soon  come.  It  is  very 
•likely,  if  you  could  fix  projecting  wind-breaks  in  front  of 
your  Peach  wall  at  intervals,  the  curl  would  show  but 
4ittle.  As  to  your  Indiarubber  Plant,  the  leaves  are  very 
small  and  seem  to  have  been  injured  by  some  noxious 
:gas  or  in  some  way  scorched.  It  is  a  case  for  purely  local 
•enquiry  to  find  a  remedy. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Names  of  plants.— rft«  Hon.  C.  L.  B.,  Bruitol  — 

1,  Geum  rivale  ;  2,  Polemonium  cseruleum  ;  3,  Thalictrum 
minus  ;  4,  Euphorbia  Cyparissias  ;  B,  Anthericum  Liliago  ; 

•6,    Viburnum    Lantana ;    7,    Pulmonaria    otticinalis. 

P.  iT.— Your  Roses  are  :  1,  Sulphurea ;  2,  Belle  Lyon- 
naise ;  3,  Marchioness  of  Londonderry  ;   4,  Gloire  Lyon- 

^laise. H.  P.  K.~l,  Diervilla  florida;   2,  Aristolochia 

Sipho;   3,  Asphodeline  liburnica. Arthur  Shillitoe.—l, 

■Geranium   albiflorum  ;    2,   G.   sylvaticum ;    3,    Aconitum 

Lycoctonum    septentrionale. W.    Gre^n,    Battersea. — 

The  Dawson  Rose. L.  S.  Owen.— Yonr  Rose  is  Conrad 

F.   Meyer. Rhagatt.—Rosa,  centifolia  (Cabbage  Rose). 

W.     Dawson. — 1,    Buxus    sempervirens ;      2,    Taxus 

baccata  ;  3,  Cedrus  atlantica ;  4,  Thuya  orientalis ;  6, 
Cupressus  lawsoniana  variety  ;  6,  Abies  nordmanniana  ; 
7,  Cedrus  Deodara ;  8,  Cupressus  pisifera  plumosa ;  0, 
C.  lawsoniana ;  10,  Tsuga  canadensis ;  11,  Juniperus 
chinensis  ;   12,  Pernettya  mucronata.  — — 3/.   L.  M.   T.— 

Iris  tectorum. Mrs.   ife/wAaa'.— Sisyrinchium  angusti- 

folium  ;  Iris  graminea. J.  M.  S. — 1,  Dictaranus  albus 

purpureus  ;  2,  Anthericum  Liliago;  3,  Armeria  juncea; 
4,  possibly  Ailantus  glandulosa.  Better  specimen  needed. 
— ~T.  W.  P.— 1,  Saxifraga  tricuspidata  ;  2.  Kerria 
japonica  ;  3,  Centranthus  ruber  ;   4,  Phlox  subulata  atro- 

purpurea  ;  5,  Begonia  weltoniensis. C.  H.  D. — Paradisia 

Liliastrum  (white) ;  Chelidonium  majus  (Celandine). 

F.   fl".— Cannot  name  from  leaf  only. U%nc6y.—tAg\is- 

strum  lucidum  tricolor. A.  C.  K. — 1,  Pteris  serrulata  ; 

2,  Pelljea  rotundifolia  variety  ;  3,  Scolopendrium  vulgare  ; 
4,  S.  v.  crispum  ;  5,  Pteris  cretica  variety  ;  0,  Nephrodium 
hirtipes ;  7,  Ophiopogon  japonicum  variegatum  ;  8, 
Myrtns     communis     tarentina ;     9,     Coleonema     alba ; 

10,    Daphniphyllum     macropodum. S.  —  Vaccinium 

corymbosum. 


SOCIETIES. 

YORK  FLORAL  FETE. 
The  flfty-flrst  annual  floral  fSte  was  held  in  Bootham 
Park,  York,  on  the  17th  and  18th  inst.,  and  proved  a  great 
succeBS.  Non-competitive  or  trade  exhibits  were  very 
good  indeed  ;  so,  too,  was  fruit  and  vegetables  in  the  com- 
petitive section.  Many  of  the  plant  groups  in  this  latter 
section,  though  composed  of  excellent  material,  were 
much  too  crowded,  the  beauty  of  the  plants  being  thereby 
spoiled.  The  mixing  up  of  the  entries  for  one  class  among 
those  for  another  is  a  feature  that  is  allowed  at  this  show, 
and  consequently  it  is  well-nigh  impossible  for  visitors  to 
trace  all  the  entries  in  a  class,  this  being  particularly  bad 
in  the  specimen  plant  section.  We  feel  sure  the  committee 
would  do  well  to  try  and  avoid  this  in  future.  We  desire 
to  tender  our  thanks  to  Mr.  Fred  Arey  for  assistance  given, 
and  also  to  the  member  of  the  committee  who  kindly 
brought  round  copies  of  the  official  programme  for 
representatives  of  the  Press. 

CoMPETiTH'E  Classes.— Plants  in  Pots. 
For  a  group  of  miscellaneous  plants  in  or  out  of  bloom, 
and  occupying  a  space  not  exceeding  300  square  feet,  the 
first  prize  was  won  by  J.  Pickersgill,  Esq.,  Bowdon  Hill, 
Weetwood,  Leeds  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  DoBoghue).  This  was 
a  beautiful  group  of  splendidly  arranged  high  quality 
plants  ;  Crotons,  Dracienas,  Caladiums,  Roses,  Lilies  and 
tall  Palms  were  a  few  of  the  subjects  included.  Second 
honours  fell  to  Mr.  W.  A.  Holmes,  West  End  Nurseries, 
Chesterfield,  whose  group  was  also  of  very  high  order,  the 
plants  used  being  of  excellent  quality  throughout.  The 
third,  fourth  and  fifth  prizes  were  won  respectively  by 
Mr.  James  Blacker,  Thorpe  Villas,  Selby  (gardener,  Mr. 
Walton  Curtis) :  Messrs.  R.  Simpson  and  Son,  Seiby  ;  and 
Mr.  G.  Cottam,  Alma  Gardens,  Cottingham,  Hull. 

For  a  similar  but  smaller  group,  the  first  prize  was 
again  won  by  J.  Pickersgill,  Esq.,  whose  group  was  a  really 
fine  combination  of  colours,  the  Crotons  being  particularly 
good.  Mr.  W.  A.  Holmes  was  a  very  close  second,  the 
Crotons  here  being  also  very  highly  coloured.  Third  and 
fourth  prizes  went  to  Mr.  William  Vause,  Leamington 
Spa,  and  Messrs.  R.  Simpson  and  Sons  respectively. 

Class  3  was  for  a  group  of  hardy  herbaceous  and  perennial 
plants  and  flowers,  with  background  of  decorative  plants, 
Bamboos,  &c. ,  with  pool  of  water,  Nymphseas,  water  plants, 
&c. ,  arranged  for  natural  effect,  cut  flowers  allowed  :  to 
occupy  a  space  not  exceeding  30  feet  by  10  feet.  First 
honours  were  well  won  here  by  Messrs.  J.  Backhouse  and 
Sons  of  York.  This  exhibit  was  of  very  high  quality 
indeed,  and  took  the  form  of  a  steep  rocky  bank  with  a 
cascade  of  water  falling  from  the  rocks  at  one  end  and 
supplying  an  irregular  rock-strewn  pool  below.  From  the 
fissures  ot  the  rocks  and  surmounting  some  of  the  largest 
were  the  choicest  of  rock  plants,  the  whole  forming  an 
exhibit  of  the  highest  possible  merit.  Second  honours 
went  to  Messrs.  W.  Artindale  and  Sons,  Sheffield,  whose 
exhibit  was  arranged  on  somewhat  similar  lines  to  the 
foregoing,  a  rustic  wooden  bridge  spanning  the  pool  being  a 
novel  feature.  The  plants  used  were  of  excellent  quality. 
Third  prize  went  to  Mr.  S.  Pickering,  Clifton,  York,  and 
fourth  to  Mr.  J.  Wood,  Boston  Spa,  York. 

In  the  class  for  nine  stove  or  greenhouse  plants  in 
bloom,  distinct  varieties,  the  first  prize  went  to  Messrs. 
J.  Cypher  and  Son  of  Cheltenham  for  magnificent  speci- 
mens of  Statice  intermedia,  Pimelia  siosmiefolia,  Ericas 
and  Pelargoniums.     Mr.  W.  Vause  was  second. 

In  a  similar  class  for  six  plants  Messrs.  Cypher  and 
Son  were  again  first  with  splendid  plants,  Mr.  W.  Vause 
being  second. 

For  three  plants  in  bloom,  Messrs.  Cypher  once  more 
took  first  honours,  Mr.  W.  Vause  being  second. 

Messrs.  J.  Cypher  and  Son  were  also  first  for  a  single 
plant,  with  a  well.fiowered  Anthurium,  Mr.  W.  Vause 
being  second  with  a  similar  plant,  and  F.  Dean,  Esq., 
third  with  Stephanotis  floribunda ;  and  in  the  class  for  a 
single  specimen  greenhouse  plant  Messrs.  Cypher  were  first 
with  a  splendid  example  of  Erica  ventricosa  magnifica, 
Mr.  W.  Vause  being  second  and  J.  R.  Wedgwood  third. 

For  a  table  of  Orchids,  Messrs.  Cypher  and  Sons  were 
the  only  exhibitors,  their  group  being  a  very  good  one  and 
securing  first  prize.  Messrs.  Cypher  were  also  first  for 
ten  Orchids  in  bloom,  distinct,  Anguloa  Clowesii  and 
Cattleya  Warneri  being  very  good  here.  Mr.  W.  P. 
Burkinshaw  was  second  and  Mr.  W.  Vause  third. 

For  six  Orchids  in  bloom,  Messrs.  Cypher  led,  Mr.  W.  P. 
Burkinshaw  and  Mr.  W.  Vause  following  in  the  order 
named.  In  a  similar  class  for  three  plants  the  same 
exhibitors  won  in  the  same  order. 

For  six  Orchids  in  bloom  (amateurs>,  Mr.  W.  P. 
Burkinshaw  was  first,  and  the  same  exhibitor  was  first  in 
the  amateurs'  classes  for  three  and  one  plant  respectively. 
For  a  group  of  tuberous  Begonias  arranged  for 
effect  in  a  given  space,  the  entries  were  very  numerous, 
first  honours  going  to  Mr.  T.  Winn,  Ratclifle  Street, 
Burton  Stone  Lane,  York,  for  a  very  fine  group  of 
splendidly  grown  plants.  Mrs.  Akenhead,  Acomb  Park, 
York  (gardener,  Mr.  R.  W.  Leadhill)  was  a  good  second, 
and  third  prize  fell  te  Miss  Barstow,  Sarron  Hill,  York. 

For  the  eight  best  named  tuberous  Begonias  in  flower 
(open),  Mr.  T.  Winn,  Burton  Stone  Lane,  Y'ork,  was  first, 
Mrs.  Akenhead  being  second  and  R.  T.  Foster,  Esq.,  third. 
For  a  group  of  Gloxinias  in  bloom,  arranged  for  effect  in 
a  given  space,  first  prize  went  to  Sir  .T.  Grant  Lawson, 
Bart.,  Middlethorp  Lodge.  York  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  Dobson), 
for  a  well-arranged  group  of  excellent  plants.  J.  A. 
Dunkerley,  Esq.,  Beverley  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  Bush),  was  a 
good  second,  and  Captain  Walker,  Mill  Mount  House, 
York  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  Clark),  third. 

The  class  for  a  group  of  Carnations  in  blonm  was  rather 
poorly  contested.    First  honours  went  to  J.  Pickersgill, 


Esq.,  Bowdon  Hill,  Weetwood,  Leeds  (gardener,  Mr.  .J. 
Donoghue),  who  staged  good  plants  of  the  perpetual 
flowering  varieties,  his  Malmaisons  being  small.  Messrs. 
Walshaw  and  Sons,  The  Nurseries,  Scarborough,  and  Mr. 
J.  E.  Skaife,  York,  were  second  and  third  respectively. 

For  a  group  of  Fuchsias  arranged  for  effect  (open)  there 
were  three  entries,  Mr.  J.  W.  Clarke,  Skelton  Street, 
Clifton,  York,  being  first  with  splendidly  grown  plants. 
Mr.  W  Kettlewell,  Homer  Street,  York,  was  a  close 
second,  and  G.  Lee,  Esq.,  was  placed  third.  All  the  plants 
shown  in  this|  class  were  good  but  he  arrangement  was 
much  too  heavy. 

The  class  for  a  group  of  Calceolarias  arranged  for  effect 
was  a  very  popular  and  well-contested  one,  P.  Stanclilfe, 
Esq.,  Solberge,  Northallerton  (gardener,  Mr.  George 
Jarvis),  being  first  with  some  splendidly  grown  plants,  the 
flowers  being  large  and  of  good  colour.  J.  W.  (Doulthurst, 
Esq.,  Gargrave  House,  Gargrave,  Leeds  (gardener,  Mr.  M. 
Skinner),  was  a  very  good  second,  W.  Talbot  Agar,  Esq., 
York  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Barnes),  being  third. 

For  eight  Calceolarias,  S.  Leetham,  Esq. ,  Elm  Bar,  York 
(gardener,  Mr.  G.  Skill),  took  first  honours  with  excellent 
plants,  the  flowers  being  very  large  and  flrm.  The  Rev. 
Canon  Argles  and  Captain  Walker  were  second  and  third 
respectively. 

The  hand .  baskets,  bouquets,  &c.,  were  very  good 
indeed  ;  and  Pelargonium  specimens,  which  are  always 
a  feature  of  this  York  show,  were  well  up  to  the  average, 
but  lack  of  space  forbids  any  detailed  mention  of  these. 

Roses. 

For  seventy-two  Roses,  single  blooms,  not  less  than 
thirty-six  varieties,  competition  was  excellent,  Messrs. 
George  Mount  and  Sons,  Limited,  of  Canterbury  taking 
first  prize  with  remarkably  good  flowers ;  Richmond,  Mrs. 
John  Laing,  Kaiserin  A.  Victoria  and  Mme.  Constant 
Soupert  were  a  few  of  the  best  blooms.  Mr.  George  Prince 
of  Oxford  was  a  close  second,  and  among  his  flowers  we 
noticed  Lady  Ashtown,  Johanna  Sebus  and  Anna  Olivier 
as  being  particularly  good.  Mr.  J.  D.  Hutchinson,  Crown 
Square,  Kirbymoorside,  was  placed  third. 

For  forty-eight  Roses,  single  blooms,  not  less  than 
twenty-four  varieties,  Messrs.  George  Mount  again  led 
with  very  fine  flowers.  Liberty,  Richmond  and  Souv.  de 
S.  A.  Prince  being  extra  good.  Second  honours  went  to 
Mr.  J,  D.  Hutchinson. 

In  a  similar  class  for  thirty-six  blooms,  not  less  than 
eighteen  varieties,  competition  was  very  keen  indeed, 
Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown  ef  Peterborough  winning  first 
prize  in  good  style.  Gustave  Piganeau,  Dr.  J.  C.  Hall, 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  and  Lady  Ashtown  were  a  few  of  their 
best  blooms.  Messrs.  George  Mount  and  Sons,  Mr.  E.  J. 
Hicks  (Twyford)  and  Mr.  M.  Dimsdale  (Cambridge) 
followed  in  the  order  given. 

For  twenty-four  single  blooms  of  Roses,  distinct,  Messrs. 
George  Mount  and  Sons  once  more  appropriated  the 
premier  award  with  excellent  flowers,  the  second  and 
third  prizes  being  allocated  to  Mr.  E.  J.  Hicks  and  Mr. 
M.  Dimsdale  respectively. 

In  a  similar  class  for  eighteen  varieties,  Mr.  E.  J. 
Hicks  was  the  champion,  and  among  his  flowers  we 
specially  noticed  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Mme.  Constant 
Soupert,  Mme.  Hoste  and  La  France.  Messrs.  George 
Mount  and  Sons  were  placed  second  and  Messrs.  W.  and 
J.  Brown  third. 

For  twelve  white  and  yellow  Roses,  not  less  than  six 
varieties,  Messrs.  George  Mount  and  Sons  were  first,  Mr. 
E.  J.  Hicks  being  second  and  Mr.  George  Prince  third. 

The  class  for  eighteen  distinct  varieties  of  Roses, 
single  blooms  (amateurs),  was  well  contested,  Mr.  H.  W. 
Richards,  Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight,  being  the  champion  with 
a  very  clean  lot  of  flowers  ;  Mr.  William  Hutchinson  was 
second  ;  Mr.  U.  W.  Reader,  Naburn  Ferry,  York,  third : 
and  Mr.  R  Park,  Bedale,  fourth. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  distinct  varieties,  Mr.  W. 
Hutchinson  was  first,  Mr.  R.  E.  West,  Reigate,  Mr.  R. 
Park  and  Mrs.  R.  Dobson  following  in  the  order  named. 

In  the  class  for  a  group  of  Roses  in  pots  arranged  for 
effect,  Mr.  William  Todd,  19,  Vyner  Street,  Y'ork,  was  a 
good  first  with  a  well-arranged  group  of  good  plants,  Mr. 
J.  E.  Skaife,  Clarence  Street,  York,  and  Mr.  W.  Lang- 
stafle,  Sydney  Street,  York,  following  in  the  order  named. 

FRniT  ANB  Vegetables. 

The  class  for  a  decorated  table  of  fruit,  to  consist  of  a 
stipulated  number  of  kinds  of  fruit,  and  the  flowers  to  be 
arranged  by  the  exhibitor,  is  always  a  good  one.  His 
Grace  the  Duke  of  Portland,  Welbeck  Abbey  (gardener, 
Mr.  J.  Gibson),  was  placed  first,  obtaining  113  points 
out  of  a  possible  136.  The  exhibit  was  a  very  beau- 
tiful one  indeed ;  Grapes  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and 
Black  Hamburgh,  Apple  Lady  Sudeley,  Nectarine  Lord 
Napier,  Peach  Bellegarde,  Cherries  and  Melons  were  all 
shown  In  grand  condition,  Roses,  Lygodium  and  Gypso- 
phila  being  used  for  artistic  effect.  Second  honours  fell 
to  the  Marquess  of  Northampton,  Castle  Ashby,  North- 
ampton (gardener,  Mr.  A.  R.  Searle),  who  obtained 
97t  points.  Grapes,  Figs,  Peaches  and  Strawberries  being 
shown  in  good  condition,  and  Odontoglossums  were 
chiefly  used  for  decoration.  The  Earl  of  Harrington, 
Elvaston  Castle,  Derby  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  H.  Goodacre), 
was  third  with  97  points,  thus  being  only  half  a  point 
below  the  second-prize  table. 

For  a  collection  of  fruits,  ten  kinds,  only  two  sorts  of 
Grapes,  the  flrst.prize  collection  was  shown  by  Baron 
de  Forest,  Londesborough  Park  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  C. 
McPherson),  who  had  excellent  Grapes,  Strawberries, 
Peaches  and  Nectarines,  Cherries,  Figs  and  Melons,  the 
whole  being  well  finished.  Second  prize  was  awarded  to 
the  Earl  of  Harrington  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  H.  Goodacre), 
whose  fruit,  particularly  the  Peaches,  was  of  excellent 
quality. 


^^t. 


GARDEN. 


^fe^-^^ 


No.  1963. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


July  3,  1909. 


CONTENTS 


BoTTLiNB  Fruits  and 
ve8etables     . .    . . 

Notes  of  the  Webk 

cobkbsfohcenoe 
AntB  and  Rosea 
MecoDopsis    integri- 

folia 

ADemone    nemoroaa 
robinsoniana . .     . . 
Rose  foliage  injured 

Mr.  E.  H.  Wilson 

ElTOHEN  OABDEN 

Fennel      (Finocchi») 
and  its  culture     . . 
Fruit  aABOEN 
A  good  early  Peach 
and  its  culture 
Greenhouse 
Flowering  Cacti  and 
their  culture . .     . . 
Coloured  Plate 
Cactus  -  flowered 
Cinerarias      . .     . . 
Flower  Garden 
Wild  Violets     . .     . . 
Iris    hybrida    Sir 
Trevor  Lawrence . . 
The  Nankeen  Lily  . . 
Sweet  Pea  ohat 


322 


325 


Flower  Garden 
A  simple  and  beauti- 
ful rockery    ..     ..    327 

Rose  Garden 
Unpruned  bushes  of 

Tea  Roses      . .     . .    327 
A  pretty  new  China 

Rose 327 

GAEDENINS  FSB  BBSINNERS 
Garden  workweek  by 

328 


The  final  potting  of 

Chrysanthemums       328 
Cuttmg  back  Ferns . .    329 

The  Town  Garden  . .    329 

Gardenins  of  the  Week 
For   the    South    and 

South  Midlands    ..  330 
For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands  . .  330 

New  plants 330 

Editor's  Table      . .     . .  330 

Answers     ts    Corke- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . .     . .    331 

Greenhouse 331 

Fruit  garden     ..     ..    332 
Miscellaneous  . .     . .    332 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Mr.  E.  H.  Wilsm 323 

A  cluster  of  wild  Violets     324 

Cactus-flowered  Cinerarias Coloured  plate 

Iris  hybrida  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence     325 

The  Nankeen  Lily  in  a  Rhododendron  bed  at  Kew   . .    326 

A  simple  and  beautiful  rock  garden       327 

The  final  potting  of  Chrysanthemums 328,  329 


EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  h9rti<yulture  is  represented  in  THE 
GAIU>bn,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relatvng  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  '* Answers  to  Correspondents"  colum/ns  a  conspicuous 
feature^  a/nd,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  communications  must  be  written  clea/rly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  amd  addressed  to  the  Editor  •/  The 
Garden,  accompa/nied  by  na/me  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
bvX  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  he  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  toill  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contri^tions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  oHistic 
or  literary  comtrihutions  which  he  ma/y  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taiken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  m  THE  Garden 
loiU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


OffUes:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Oarden,  W.C. 


BOTTLING    FRUITS    AND 
VEGETABLES. 

EVERY  housekeeper  is  always  thankful 
to  feel,  when  the  winter  is  at  its 
height,  that  she  has  a  nice  supply  of 
fruits  and  vegetables  in  her  store-eup- 
board  which  she  can  offer  to  her 
visitors,  and  bo  a  few  hints  as  to  the  manner  of 
bottling,  &e.,  may  be  of  use  to  some. 

Bottling  Fruit  in  Water. — The  fruit  to  be 
bottled  must  be  perfectly  fresh  and  sound,  and 
should  have  been  gathered  on  a  fine,  dry  day.  It 
should  all  be  carefully  looked  over  before  being 
put  in  the  bottles,  which  must  be  clean  and  dry 
and  quite  free  from  cracks. 

Bottles. — ^In  choosing  bottles  those  with  small 
necks  do  for  small  fruits,  such  as  Gooseberries, 
Currants  or  Damsons,  &c. ,  and  those  with  larger 
necks  for  the  large  fruits. 

Fruits.  —  The  bottles  must  be  filled  up  with 
fruit  as  closely  as  possible,  as  a  great  shrinkage 
takes  place  in  the  cooking,  which  is  especially 
the  case  with  Currants.  Plums  can  be  pushed 
into  the  bottles  with  a  stick,  so  as  not  to  leave 
more  spaces  than  possible.  Having  filled  the 
bottles  with  fruit,  they  should  then  have  pure 
cold  water  poured  into  them  so  as  to  fill  them  up 
to  the  top.  There  are  many  methods  of  covering 
them  over. 

Covering.  —  I  have  invariably  found  that 
bladders,  which  can  be  obtained  from  the 
butcher,  are  excellent.  The  best  way  to  use 
them  is  to  immerse  them  in  very  hot  water,  in 
order  to  get  the  bladder  pliable  ;  then  tie  it  over 
the  neck  of  the  bottle  with  a  piece  of  string. 
One  bladder  is  generally  sufficient  for  four 
bottles,  but,  of  course,  this  depends  upon  the  size 
of  the  necks  and  the  bladder. 

Corking. — Another  method  is  to  choose  good 
corks,  which  should  be  soaked  in  hot  water  and 
squeezed  before  using,  tying  them  over  twice 
seourely  with  string. 

Method  of  Cooking. — The  bottles  having  been 
securely  fastened  up  so  that  no  air  can  get  to  the 
fruit,  a  large  copper  must  be  got  ready  in 
which  the  bottles  must  stand  evenly,  but  not 
touching  each  other  for  fear  of  breaking.  This 
copper  must  be  filled  with  sufficient  cold  water 
to  come  halfway  up  the  necks  of  the  bottles, 
and  it  must  be  gradually  heated  to  180°,  which 
prooess  occupies  about  three  hours  (for  Plums  160° 
is  sufficient,  as  if  overdone  they  will  break  up). 
When  the  water  in  the  copper  is  quite  cold,  the 
bottles  may  be  removed  and  put  away  on  their 
sides  in  a  dry  cupboard. 

Special  Warning. — In  preserving  fruit  in  this 
manner,  judicious  selection  of  the  fruit,  well  cook- 
ing and  well  corking  are  the  three  [points  to  be 


carefully  attended  to.  If  it  is  impossible  to  carry 
out  these  directions  with  regard  to  the  three 
hours'  slaw  heating,  bring  the  water  to  the  boil 
very  gradually  and  then  gently  simmer  for  about 
ten  minutes  for  most  fruits  ;  but  Black  Currants 
and  Plums  will  require  fifteen  minutes  and 
Apricots  and  Peaches  twenty  minutes.  Of 
course,  the  length  of  time  required  for  cooking 
must  always  depend  a  little  on  the  ripeness  of 
the  fruit.  Another  way  of  preserving  fruit  in 
bottles  is  the  following :  Of  course,  the  fruit 
needs  to  be  good  and  fresh,  as  was  the  case  in 
the  preceding  process,  and  it  must  be  placed  in 
bottles  in  the  same  way  ;  but  instead  of  filling 
these  up  with  cold  water,  a  mixture  of  two 
scruples  of  salicylic  acid  and  one  gallon  of  water, 
in  which  is  lib.  of  loaf  sugar,  must  be  boiled 
together  for  five  minutes  and  then  poured  boiling 
into  the  bottles,  which  should  be  tied  down  with 
bladder,  similar  to  the  recipe  previously  given, 
and  put  away  in  the  store-cupboard. 

Fruits    in    Syrup.  —  Peaches,    Apricots    and 
Nectarines  can  be    preserved  in  syrup  in  the 
following  manner  :  The  fruit  must  be  wiped  and 
then  thrown  into  a  preserving-pan    more  than 
half  full  of  boiling  water.    Having  covered  up  the 
pan,  let  it  stand  where  it  will  keep  hot  and  not 
boil  for  an  hour.     Place  the  fruits  in  cold  water  ; 
then,  after  skinning  them  and  taking  out  the 
stones,  weigh  them  and  take  the  same  weight  of 
loaf  sugar,  with  which  you  make  a  syrup  with 
water  ;  and  then,   after  letting  it  boil  for  five 
minutes  with  the  fruit  and  kernels  in,  place  the 
fruit  on  a  dish  and  pour  the  syrup  over.     For  a 
week  the  syrup  should  be  boiled  daily  and  poured 
afresh  over  the  fruit,  at  the  end  of  which  time 
it    should    be     bottled,    corked    securely    and 
left  in  a  dry  place  till  required.     Pineapples  can 
be  preserved  in  this  way  ;    but  they  must  be 
pared  thickly  enough  to  take  out  the  eyes,  and 
to  every  lib.  of  fruit  14oz.  of  loaf  sugar  and  half 
a  gill  of  water  are  required  for  the  syrup.     The 
Pines  must  be  out  in  slices,  and  when  put  into 
the  syrup  the  fruit  will  want  boiling  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  and  the  syrup  must  be  well  skimmed. 
The  fruit  and  syrup  should  be  left  on  a  dish  for 
two  days  ;  then,  after  boiling  up  once  more,  it 
is  ready   to    be  bottled    and    corked.     Melons 
can  also  be  preserved  in   this    way,   but  they 
require  careful  handling  to  prevent  the  pieces 
getting  pulpy.     Pears  and  Apples  are  also  excel- 
lent in  this  way  ;    but  the  fruit  must  be  peeled 
first,  then  cut  in  half  and  well  cored,  after  which 
it  must  be  weighed  and  a  syrup  made  similar  to 
that  used  for  Peaches.      After    the    fruit  has 
boiled  separately  in  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
it  can  be  put  into  the  syrup — when  the  latter  is 
clear — and    boiled    for    ten    minutes.      On    the 
following  day  it  must  be  boiled  up  all  together 


322 


TilE     GAliDExN. 


[July  3,  1909 


for  ten  minutes  and  then  be  put  into  bottles  and 
sealed  down  securely  till  wanted. 

Siberian  Grab  Apples  are  often  much  liked  and 
form  a  good  dish  for  dessert  in  the  winter.  The 
fruit  must  be  wiped  well  and  each  Apple  pricked 
four  or  five  times  with  a  needle.  A  syrup  must 
be  made  of  as  many  pounds  of  sugar  as  there  are 
of  fruit.  To  every  31b.  allow  the  juice  of  three 
lemons  and  six  tablespoonfuls  of  gin.  After 
making  a  syrup  of  these  ingredients,  put  in  the 
Apples  and  simmer  them  gently  till  the  skins  are 
slightly  cracked.  The  fruit  must  then  be  drained 
and  put  into  bottles.  The  syrup  should  be  boiled 
up  again  separately  for  ten  minutes,  and  when 
cold  be  poured  over  the  fruit,  which  should 
be  corked  up  till  needed. 

To  Preserve  Vegetables  in  Bottles. 
The  process  of  preserving  vegetables  in  bottles, 
which  is  to  be  explained,  consists  in  boiling  them 
in  closed  vessels  in  a  large  copper,  and  by  this 
means  one  is  able  to  eat  several  kinds  of 
vegetables  in  winter  having  precisely  the  same 
flavour  which  they  had  at  the  time  when  they 
were  gathered.  Among  the  vegetables  which 
lend  themselves  to  preservation  are  Peas,  Beans 
(Haricot  and  French),  Asparagus,  Carrots,  &c. 

Green  Peas  for  bottling  should  be  large,  but, 
above  all,  very  fresh,  young  and  green.  Having 
shelled  the  Peas,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water  and  let  them  boil  hard  for  five  minutes  ; 
it  is  best  to  put  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  the  water 
to  keep  them  a  good  colour.  Take  out  the  Peas, 
and  having  well  drained  them,  they  should  be 
placed  in  bottles,  which  must  then  be  filled  with 
cold  salt  water,  in  the  proportion  of  loz.  of  salt 
to  every  pint  of  water.  After  the  bottles  have 
been  corked  and  tied  down  they  must  be  placed 
in  a  large  copper,  the  bottom  of  which  should  be 
filled  in  with  hay  to  prevent  the  bottles  touching 
and  breaking.  Having  placed  the  copper  on  the 
fire,  it  should  be  filled  with  cold  water  and 
allowed  to  come  slowly  to  the  boil.  Having 
allowed  the  water  to  boil  for  half-an-hour,  it 
must  get  cold  before  the  bottles  are  removed, 
and  then  they  can  be  placed  in  the  storeroom. 

Small  green  Beans  must  be  young.  The  pro- 
cess is  exactly  similar  for  them  as  for  green 
Peas,  except  they  must  boil  for  fifty  minutes  in 
their  bottles. 

Haricot  Beans  must  be  tender  and  very  fresh 
and  young.  They  are  preserved  in  the  same 
way  as  green  Peas,  but  require  boiling  for  an 
hour  in  the  bottles.  French  Beans  also  require 
an  hour's  boiling  like  Haricot  Beans,  and  should 
be  stalked  before  being  put  into  the  boiling  salt 
water.  Asparagus  must  be  fresh  and  is  done  in 
the  same  way  as  green  Peas,  boiling  in  the 
bottles,  like  Peas,  for  half-an-hour. 

Mixed  vegetables,  composed  of  green  Beans, 
green  Peas,  Haricot  Beans  and  small  Carrots, 
can  also  be  bottled  in  this  way,  and  require  to 
boil  for  from  fifty  to  sixty  minutes. 

(Miss)  Mildred  I.  Clatden. 
Evtrsfield  House,  St.  Leonards-on-Sea. 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK 

FOKTHCOMINQ     EVENTS. 

July  6  and  7. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Summer  Show  (by  the  kind  permission  of  Mary 
Countess  of  Ilchester),  in  the  grounds  of  Holland 
House,  Kensington. 


University     Collegre,    Reading:.— 

The  new  prospectus  of  the  Agricultural,  Dairy- 
ing and  Horticultural  Instruction  to  be  given  at 
the  above  college  is  now  being  issued,  and  all 
who  are  thinking  of  seeking  instruction  on  these 
subjects  should  apply  to  the  director  for  a  free 
copy  of  the  prospectus. 

Lillum  gi^anteum.— Messrs.  Barr  and 
Sons  are  testing  the  fitness  of  this  giant  Lily  as  a 
purely  aquatic  plant.  They  have  many  planted  in 
water  which  is  from  12  inches  to  15  inches  if> 


depth,  and  these  so  far  are  doing  well.  Others 
planted  earlier  close  to  the  margin  of  the  stream 
are  becoming  very  strong,  and  evidently  they  are 
quite  at  home  in  such  moist  surroundings.  Mr. 
W.  J.  Barr  mentioned  that  he  had  heard  that  in 
India  Lilium  giganteum  grows  perfectly  in  water. 
In  contrast  with  these  plants  were  others  that,  the 
bulbs  having  been  put  into  7-ineh  pots  to  start 
them,  were  standing  outdoors  and  had  made 
large  stems  and  leaves.  This  fact  serves  to  show 
that,  whether  treated  to  moisture  or  otherwise, 
it  is  a  very  accommodating  plant.  Possibly  there 
are  many  bulbous  plants  which  would  thrive  all 
the  better  if  nearer  water.  It  is  only  within  the 
past  few  years  we  have  found  out  the  appreciation 
many  Primula  speoies  have  for  moisture,  and 
there  may  be  others  equally  fond  of  it. — A.  D. 
National  Vegretable   Society.— At 

the  committee  meeting  held  at  the  Hotel  Windsor. 
Victoria  Street,  Westminster,  on  the  'i'indult., 
it  was  announced  that  His  Grace  the  Duke  of 
Portland  had  kindly  consented  to  accept  the 
position  of  president  of  the  society.  It  was 
decided  to  hold  trials  of  tpring  Cabbages  and 
autumn-sown  Onions,  and  land  in  Surrey  and 
Essex  has  been  offered  for  the  purpose,  so  that 
it  will  be  seen  the  society  is  quickly  getting  to 
business.  Full  particulars  of  these  trials  will  be 
published  in  due  course.  We  trust  that  all  our 
readers  who  are  in  any  way  interested  in 
vegetables  will  join  this  new  and  important 
society,  and  thus  aid  the  committee  in  its  efforts 
to  promote  a  better  knowledge  of  vegetables. 
The  annual  subscription  is  5s.,  which  may  be 
sent  either  to  the  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  E.  G. 
Quick,  Kelmscott,  Harrow  View,  Wealdstone, 
Harrow ;  or  to  the  hon.  treasurer,  Mr.  G.  Wythes, 
Hopefield  House,  Windmill  Road,  Brentford. 
The  Oapdeneps'  Royal  Benevolent 

Institution.  —  The  seventieth  anniversary 
festival  dinner  of  the  above  praiseworthy  In- 
stitution was  held  at  the  Hotel  Metropole, 
Whitehall,  London,  on  the  23rd  ult.,  Lionel  de 
Rothschild,  Esq.,  in  the  chair,  and  about  200 
friends  were  present.  After  the  loyal  toasts  had 
been  given,  the  chairman  proposed  "Continued 
Prosperity  to  the  Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent 
Institution.''  In  doing  so  he  referred  to  the 
admirable  objects  of  the  institution,  and  said  he 
wished  to  specially  emphasise  the  fact  that  it 
gave  him  very  great  pleasure  to  know  that  it 
encouraged  thrift  among  those  whom  it  was 
intended  in  after  years  to  benefit.  It  was. 
however,  necessary  to  appeal  to  the  general 
public  for  funds,  and  he  sincerely  hoped  that  all 
who,  like  himself,  loved  their  gardens  and  the 
flowers  would  do  all  they  possibly  could  to  assist 
the  institution,  which,  in  turn,  helped  those  who 
had  in  the  past  made  our  many  beautiful  gardens 
what  they  are.  Mr.  Harry  J.  Veiteh,  V.M.H. 
(treasurer),  in  responding,  said  the  chairman  gave 
them  great  encouragement  in  so  kindly  presiding 
over  that  gathering.  It  was  impossible  to  tabulate 
the  vast  amount  of  good  work  the  Institution 
was  doing,  but  he  mentioned  the  fact  that  every 
v»'  a  total  of  £4,320  is  spent  in  assisting 
cessitous  gardeners  or  widows  of  gardeners. 
During  the  seventy  years  the  Institution  had 
been  in  existence  a  total  of  £124,000  had  been  so 
spent.  He  also  drew  attention  to  the  good  in- 
vestment it  had  proved  to  many  gardeners  who 
had  in  the  past  subscribed  to  the  funds.  As 
showing  the  gratitude  of  those  who  receive 
pensions  or  other  assistance,  Mr.  Veiteh  read 
two  most  touching  letters  from  poor  aged  people 
that  threw  a  vivid  light  on  the  distress  under 
which  some  good  gardeners  of  the  past  now  exist. 
Colonel  the  Right  Hon.  Mark  Lock  wood,  M.  P., 
proposed  "Horticulture  in  all  its  Branches," 
and,  as  usual,  mads  a  capital  and  humorous 
speech,  in  which  he  drew  attention  to  the  firm 
hold  the  love  of  horticulture  now  had  on  all 
sections  of  the  British  public  and  the  humanising 
and  peace-loving  effects  it  produced.  Mr.  Arthur 
W.  Sutton,  J. P.,  V.M.H.,  responded  in  a  most 
able  manner,  and  mentioned  the  Darwin  Cen- 
tenary celebrations  that  were  then  being  held  at 


Cambridge.  Clever  though  Dirwin's  theory  of 
evolution  was,  it  did  not,  and  could  not,  explain 
what  induced  such  as  those  present  to  assist,  as 
they  were  doing,  those  poorer  and  weaker  than 
themselves.  Mr.  N.  N.  Sherwood,  V.M.H.,  in 
a  splendid  though  brief  speech,  proposed  "  Our 
Chairman,"  which  was  drunk  with  musical 
honours,  as  was  that  of  the  secretary,  Mr.  G.  .J. 
Ingram.  Among  the  subscriptions  sent  in  were  t 
The  Chairman,  100  guineas  ;  Messrs.  Rothschild, 
100  guineas ;  Messrs.  Hurst  and  Son,  £100 ; 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Son,  £100 ;  Mr.  Arthur 
Sutton,  £10;  Mr.  Leonard  Sutton,  £10;  Mr.  J. 
Vert,  £50 ;  Baron  Schroder,  £50 ;  Messrs.  .J. 
Veiteh  and  Sons,  25  guineas ;  The  Proprietors 
of  Goimtry  Life  and  The  Garden,  10  guineas ; 
and  Mr.  Harry  .J.  Veiteh,  25  guineas.  Mr. 
Edward  Sherwood  also  informed  the  committee 
that  as  a  result  of  the  recent  performance  of 
"Cyderland,"  kindly  undertaken  by  him,  there 
would  be  £100  to  add  to  the  funds.  Among  the 
stewards'  list  were  the  following :  Mr.  A. 
MoKellar,  £36  2s.  ;  Mr.  T.  H.  Cook,  £32  7s.  ; 
Mr.  A.  .J.  Wood,  £30  ;  Mr.  Crump,  20  guineas  ; 
Mr.  F.  Fielder,  20  guineas ;  Mr.  Metcalfe, 
20  guineas  ;  Messrs.  Dickson  and  Robinson,  £12 ; 
Mr.  Douglas,  £12 ;  and  Messrs.  Curry  and 
Co. ,  8  guineas.  Mr.  G.  Monro's  Covent  Garden 
table  subscribed  £176  58.  and  Mr.  Ingamell's 
table  £60  10s. ,  the  total  subscribed  that  evening 
being  £2,099,  £99  more  than  last  year. 

Disease   among:  bees. —  The  Board 

of  Agriculture  and  Fisheries  desire  to  warn 
all  bee-keepers  that  an  outbreak  of  disease, 
believed  to  be  identical  with  the  Isle  of  Wight 
Bee  Disease,  has  occurred  in  several  hives  in 
Buckinghamshire.  This  disease,  which  has 
destroyed  almost  all  the  bees  in  the  island  from 
which  it  takes  its  name,  is  due  to  a  bacillus 
closely  resembling  the  bacillus  of  plague,  and  no 
remedy  for  it  is  known.  It  is  of  the  utmost 
importance,  therefore,  that  bee-keepers  should 
take  every  precaution  to  prevent  the  disease 
spreading,  and  they  are  strongly  advised  to  keep 
a  careful  watch  for  any  signs  of  its  appearance. 
A  full  description  of  the  disease  was  published 
in  the  Journal  of  the  Board  of  Agriculture  for 
February,  1909,  and  bee-keepers  who  find 
symptoms  of  disease  corresponding  to  the 
description  there  given  should  communicate 
with  the  Board  of  Agriculture  and  Fisheries,  4, 
Whitehall  Place,  London,  S.W. 

A  ppetty  flower  show.— The  annual 
exhibition  of  the  Bedford  Park  Natural  History 
and  Gardening  Society  is  always  a  pretty  feature 
in  this  beautiful  "  garden  city."  It  is  to  be  held 
on  Saturday  next  in  the  club  grounds,  and  will 
be  open  from  4  p.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  There  are  classes 
for  Roses,  garden  flowers,  Ferns,  pot  plants  and 
wild  flowers.  Mr.  R.  H.  Read,  Camelot,  South 
Parade,  is  the  hon.  secretary.  This  society  is 
one  of  the  most  useful  in  the  suburbs  of  London. 
Excursions  to  famous  gardens  are  arranged 
during  the  summer,  and  monthly  meetings  take 
place  in  the  winter  months,  when  lectures  are 
given  by  famous  scientists  and  gardeners. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  i»  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 


Ants  and  Roses.— I  have  read  with 
much  interest  "  Notes  from  a  Surrey  Rose 
Garden,"  signed  "P.  M.  A.,"  in  The  Garden  of 
the  19th  ult.  For  the  last  two  seasons  I  have 
had  all  my  best  Rose  buds  eaten  away,  and  on 
examining  them  have  found  them  full  of  ants 
exactly  as  "P.  M.  A."  describes.  I  consulted 
every  book  I  have  or  could  borrow,  but  could  find 
no  reference  to  ants  as  Rose  pests,  and  although 
I  asked  several  experts,  I  was  always  told  the 
same  thing — that  ants  never  ate  the  Rose  buds, 
but  were  only  attracted  by  the  aphis.  This 
summer,  however,  having  carefully  watched  tl)e 


July  3,  1909.] 


THE    GAKDEN. 


323 


trees  and  satiafied  myself  that  the  damage  was 
due  to  the  ants,  I  set  to  work  and  tried  one 
remedy  after  another.  After  several  failures  I 
have  now  entirely  got  rid  of  them,  and  am  glad 
to  be  able  to  promise  your  correspondent  that  he 
will  have  no  further  trouble  if  he  proceeds  as 
follows :  Add  Jib.  of  quassia  chips  to  three  gallons 
of  soft  water  ;  boil  and  simmer  for  two  hours ; 
strain  off  the  liquid,  and  add  Jib.  of  soft  soap.  Use 
this  mixture  when  cold  (diluted  with  one-third 
of  soft  water)  to  sponge  the  buds.  Then,  to  get 
rid  of  the  pests  before  the  rain  has  time  to  wash 
the  buds  clean  again,  follow  the  instructions 
given  in  your  most  useful  book,  "  Gardening 
Made  Easy. "  Take  several  flower-pots  and  fill 
them  with  grass  and  leaves  and  place  one  on 
each  Rose  bed  upside  down,  laying  a  flat  crock 
or  a  bit  of  slate  over  the  hole  at  the  top.  Leave 
these  undisturbed  for  about  ten  days,  and  then, 
armed  with  a  bucket  of  boiling  water,  go  round 
and,  carefully  inserting  a  spade  under  each  pot, 
transfer  it  and  its  contents  to  the  water.  In 
nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  pot  will  not  only  be  full 
of  ants,  but  of  hundreds  of  eggs  as  well. — (Mrs.) 
A.  GoEELL  Barnes. 

Let  "P.  M.  A.,"  who  writes  on  page  299, 

try  burnt  wood-ash  on  the  ground  where 
Roses  are  troubled  with  ants.  Some  years  ago, 
in  some  experiments  on  various  mixtures  of  soil 
for  Carnations  I  found  pots  in  whi^h  wood-ash 
had  been  included  were  avoided  by  ants,  while 
those  without  it  were  attacked.  —  Edmund 
Charrinoton. 

The  letter  of  "P.  M.  A."  in  your  issue 

of  the  19  th  ult.  on  Roses  and  their  enemies  was 
of  much  interest  to  me.  I  am  glad  he  has 
brought  to  light  the  fact  that  the  ant  is  an 
enemy  to  Roses.  Every  year,  more  or  less,  I 
have  had  the  buds  of  the  following  Roses,  viz. , 
Francisca  Kruger  and  Captain  Christy  (this 
latter  a  special  favourite)  completely  eaten  up 
by  ants  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  described. 
All  sorts  of  remedies  were  applied,  viz.,  sulphur, 
powdered  tobacco,  Lysol  solution,  &c.,  but  with 
no  result.  This  season  a  similar  attack  was 
made  on  the  Roses,  and  having  from  e.^perience 
abroad  observed  the  great  liking  these  little 
harmless  insects  (?)  have  for  raw  meat,  I  placed 
dead  sparrows  on  the  Rose  beds  beside  the  Roses 
attacked,  and  this  had  the  desired  effect.  They 
left  the  buds  for  the  new  delicacy  provided,  and 
I  have  had  no  further  trouble. — J.  J.  K.,  Surrey, 

Referring  to  "Notes  from  a  Surrey  Rose 

Garden"  on  page  299,  the  writer  complains  of 
the  ravages  of  ants.  Two  years  ago  I  had  quite 
a  plague  of  ants  in  my  Rose  garden,  and  I  found 
that  an  application  of  Vaporite,  used  according 
to  the  instructions  in  Mr.  Strawson's  book, 
was  followed  by  a  remarkable  disappearance  of 
the  ants,  and  I  have  not  yet  experienced  a  fresh 
visitation  of  the  same  magnitude,  though  a  few 
are  found  now  and  then. — John  J.  Burton, 
Inkberroio,    Worcesttrahire, 

MeconopsiS  integ°PifOlia.— I  am  in- 
tensely interested  and  gratified  to  learn  of  the 
unqualified  success  which  has  been  attained  by 
Mr.  W.  A.  Milner,  Totley  Hall,  Sheffield,  in  the 
cultivation  of  the  above  plant,  and  which  is  so 
abundantly  evidenced  by  the  admirable  group  in 
The  Garden,  page  299.  No  picture,  to  my 
mind,  for  many  a  year  has  appeared  to  compare 
with  it  in  the  fulness  of  its  hope  and  promise 
so  far  as  hardy  plant  lovers  are  concerned,  not  a 
few  of  whom  have  been  on  the  border-line  of 
despair  in  respect  to  this  Poppywort  and  its 
ultimate  success  in  British  gardens.  Now, 
however,  that  we  have  such  direct  evidence  of 
success,  ani  so  far  north  as  Sheffield,  a 
new  hope  arises  in  those  who  love  flowers, 
the  picture  affording  a  great  stimulus  to  the 
renewed  efforts  of  those  who  in  the  past  have 
failed  either  wholly  or  in  part.  Of  the  greatest 
possible  value  and  interest  is  the  information  by 
Mr.  Milner  that  his  noble  group  is  the  outcome 
of  plants  raised  from  home-saved  seeds.  This 
alone  is  of  the  highest  importance,  and  furnishes 
hardy  plant  lovers  with  a  much-needed  proof 


that  hitherto  has  been  very  sparse  or  entirely 
lacking ;  indeed,  so  far  as  is  generally  known, 
the  little  home-saved  seed  available  has  either 
failed  to  vegetate  altogether  or  has  given  such 
indifferent  results  that  many  feared  that  this 
Meconopsis  was  not  a  plant  for  the  lowlands  of 
England  at  all.  Such  a  fear,  however,  is  now 
completely  banished  and  enthusiasts  are  inspired 
by  a  new  hope.  The  large  number  of  seedling 
plants  obtained  by  Mr.  Milner  would  suggest 
something  akin  to  free  seeding  in  this  instance, 
and  the  news  is  most  welcome.  Indebted  as  are 
the  readers  of  The  Garden  to  Mr.  Milner  for  a 
sight  of  his  delightful  group,  one  cannot  but  feel 
that  many  of  these  would  like  to  incur  a  further 
indebtedness  in  respect  to  the  cultural  side  of 
the  question.  What  would  be  of  especial  interest 
would  be  a  note  of  the  time  of  sowing  and  the 
early  treatment  of  the  seedlings.  For  myself, 
may  I  enquire  if  artificial  pollination  was  resorted 
to,  as  it  is  not  improbable  that  much  of  the 
home-saved  seed  has  been  of  an  imperfect  nature. 
Finally,  one  cannot  but  congratulate  Mr.  Milner 


MR.    E.    H.    WILSON, 


on  his  achievement,  just  as  one  welcomes  so 
inspiring  a  success.— E.  H.  Jenkins,  Hampton 
Hill. 

Anemone  nemoposa  pobln- 
SOnlana. — The  favourable  mention  of  this 
plant  on  page  266  will,  I  hope,  oauae  many  to 
add  it  to  their  collections  ;  they  will  find  that 
the  beautiful  translucent  blue  of  the  petals  is 
much  enhanced  by  the  pale  gold  of  the  stamens. 
The  habit  of  the  same  plant  placed  under  different 
conditions  varies  so  much  that  I  am  sure  such  an 
experienced  plant-lover  as  your  correspondent 
will  not  be  surprised  to  learn  that  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood A.  n.  robinsoniana  is  of  a  far  more 
rambling  character  than  the  type.  Thus,  three 
small  roots  planted  closely  in  a  shrub  border  two 
years  ago  now  form  a  group  fully  a  yard  across, 
although  by  no  means  thick.  I  saw  it  a  few 
years  ago  in  the  gardens  of  Mr.  William 
Robinson,  well  -  nigh  naturalised,  clustering 
around  bushes  of  Roses,  running  under  loosely 
paved  walks,  and  coming  up  singly  or  in  twos  or 
threes  among  the  stones,  the  expanded  flowers 
uplifted  to  the  sun,  yet  delicately  poised  amid 
their  encircling  foliage  ;  indeed,  the  plant  seemed 


to  ramble  into  and  flourish  in  any  spot  safe  from 
the  intrusion  of  the  spade,  but,  as  Mr.  Arnott  so 
justly  remarks,  never  out  of  place.— J.  Comber, 
Nymans  Qardeiis,  Craviley,  Sussex. 

Rose   foliage    injuped.~In  The 

Garden  for  June  12  I  see  your  remarks  as  to 
Rose  foliage  blighted  in  Jamaica  ("  Rosarian  "). 
I  think  the  blight  on  Roses  this  season  at  home, 
at  least  in  this  neighbourhood,  is  in  a  more 
apparent  state  than  even  in  Jamaica.  I  send 
you  a  bunch  of  leaves  just  picked  from  my  own 
and  neighbour's  gardens.  Black  spot,  red  rust, 
frost,  white  hopper,  cuckoo  spit  and  leaf  roll, 
also  grubs  and  caterpillars,  and  aphis,  &c. , 
innumerable  are  rampant  in  spite  of  syringing 
with  the  well-known  specifies.  Strange  to  say, 
however,  the  Roses  are  in  better  growth  and 
bud  than  I  have  seen  them  for  some  time,  and  if 
we  can  only  have  a  few  showers  of  warm  rain 
instead  of  the  cold  from  north  and  north-east, 
we  may  yet  have  a  fine  show.  I  should  be  glad 
to  know  if  this  visitation  of  evils  is  as  bad 
elsewhere  as  it  is  in  this  neighbourhood. — A 
Suburban  Rose-lover,  Dulwich. 


MR.     E.     H.     WILSON. 

A  Tribute  to  a  Great  Collector. 
It  is  a  privilege  and  a  pleasure  to  publish  the 
photograph  of  one  of  our  youngest  and  most 
intrepid  plant  collectors  of  to-day.  One  has 
heard  much  lately  about  another  traveller  who 
has  done  yeoman  service  for  his  country,  and  all 
honour  to  him ;  but  sometimes  those  men  who  do 
much  in  the  interests  of  horticulture  and  the 
beautifying  of  this  land  of  ours  are  overlooked. 
Mr.  E.  H.  Wilson  has  journeyed  in  the  wilds  of 
China  with  the  object  of  collecting  new  plants. 
He  went  out  first  for  the  firm  of  Messrs.  James 
Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  of  Chelsea ;  and 
the  last  journey  was  undertaken  for  Professor 
Sargent  of  the  Arnold  Arboretum,  U.S.A.  Un- 
fortunately, we  have  no  space  to  enumerate  the 
plants  Mr.  Wilson  has  brought  home,  but  they 
will  be  seen  in  many  of  our  home  gardens.  Mr. 
Wilson,  although  a  young  man,  has  followed  in 
the  footsteps  of  those  collectors  and  travellers  of 
the  past,  and  has  already  accomplished  much 
for  British  gardening.  We  are  proud  of  such 
Englishmen. 


THE   KITCHEN   GARDEN. 

FENNEL   (FINUOCHIO)  AND    ITS 
CULTURE. 

[In  reply  to  a  Correspondent.] 

RECENTLY  a  question  was  asked  by  a 
reader  as  to  the  culture  of  the  above 
vegetable  and  its  value  as  a  salad 
plant.  By  many  the  name  Fennel 
,  suggests  a  very  different  plant  to 
the  above  variety,  as  it  is  the 
common  garden  or  Sweet  Fennel  that  is  mostly 
grown  in  this  country.  The  Finocohio,  or 
Florence  Fennel,  is  little  known  ;  but  it  is  worth 
extended  culture,  as  the  flavour  somewhat 
resembles  Celery,  but  is  much  sweeter,  and 
when  boiled  forms  a  delicate  vegetable.  In  this 
country  Feimel  is  not  used  nearly  as  much  as  it  is 
on  the  Continent,  and  the  correspondent  in  his 
note  says  that  Fennel  was  used  as  a  salad  in 
April.  Does  he  contuse  the  Sweet  Fennel  with 
the  Finocohio  variety  ?  as  in  Italy  the  Sweet  or 
well-known  garden  variety  grown  in  this  country 
is  used  largely  as  a  salad. 

I'JEarly  in  the  spring  the  shoots  or  strong 
growths  of  the  plants  are  cut  or  broken  in  short 
pieces  and  eaten  in  a  raw  state.  To  get  strong 
plants  in  the  early  spring  months  seed  must  be 
sown  in  drills  18  inches  apart  in  August  or 
September. 

The   vegetable  or  Florence   variety    is  quite 
distinct  in   every  way,  as  the  plant  forms  an 


3-24 


THE    GAKDEN. 


•July  :i,  1909. 


enlarged  growth  at  the  base,  almost  egg-shaped 
on  the  outside  but  flattened  on  the  other,  and 
varying  in  size  from  a  large  hen's  egg  to  a 
cricket  ball  when  well  grown.  It  is  iu  season  in 
the  summer  and  autumn,  and  the  plant  is  much 
dwarfer  than  the  common  Fennel,  rarely  exceed- 
ing 2  feet  in  height  when  seeding,  and  the  leaves 
are  large,  finely  cut  and  a  pale  green.  I  have 
heard  that  on  the  Continent  many  use  the  leaf- 
stalk of  this  variety  also  for  salad,  but  I  have 
never  seen  it  thus  used. 

The  culture  of  the  Florence  variety  is  simple, 
and  to  get  a  long  succession  of  this  plant  for  use 
as  a  vegetable  I  have  made  three  or  tour  sowings 
during  the  year  ;  doubtless  two  would  suffice  in 
most  cases,  viz  ,  a  spring  and  summer  sowing. 
These  would  provide  good  material  for  use  in  the 
late  summer  and  autumn,  but  as  the  plant  requires 
a  warm,  well-drained  soil,  I  would  not  advise 
sowing  after  August  in  the  North  or  September 
in  warmer  localities.  The  plant  will  take  about 
three  months  to  mature  under  ordinary  con- 
ditions, so  that  if  a  late  supply  is  required  the 
dates  noted  should  be  selected.  At  the  approach 
of  frost  I  have  lifted  the  plants  and  placed  them 
in  a  cool  store.  Treated  thus  they  keep  some 
time  ;  or,  for  a  time,  I  have  covered  them  in 
their  growing  quarters  with  litter  or  Bracken. 
Seed  should  be  sown  in  drills  IS' inches  apirt, 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


A    GOOD    EARLY    PEACH    AND 
ITS    CULTURE. 

THE  prevailing  impression  that  the 
American  varieties  of  Peaches  are 
bad  setters  may  be  true  generally, 
and  is  most  likely  the  cause  of  their 
not  being  more  largely  grown.  One, 
however,  which  I  think  deserves  to 
be  cultivated  wherever  a  very  early  supply  is 
desired  is  Early  Alexander.  The  flavour  is 
excellent,  colour  everything  to  be  desired — being 
equal  to  any  July  variety — and  a  good  size,  its 
only  fault  being  that  it  is  a  clingstone  ;  but 
this  is  a  small  drawback  when  one  considers  the 
advantages  of  its  earliness.  Grown  indoors  there 
need  be  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  ripe  fruits  the 
first  week  in  May. 

To  commence  gathering  by  this  date  we  close 
the  house  the  first  week  in  January.  A  most 
important  point  in  its  cultivation  is  to  force  very 
gently  until  after  stoning.  Any  attempt  to  keep 
up  a  strong  heat,  and  especially  when  the  out- 
side conditions  are  against  it,  would  most  likely 
prove  disastrous.  In  its  early  stages  a  night 
temperature  of  40°  to  4.5°  will  be   ample,  with  a 


THE     GREENHOUSE 


A  CLUSTER   or    WILD   VIOLETS.     {See  page  .<S5.) 


and  the  plants  thinned  in  the  rows  to  6  inches 
apart.  In  dry  weather  the  plants  require  much 
moisture,  and  I  found  we  got  much  finer  growth 
by  mulching  between  the  rows  with  spent  manure. 
When  the  plant  had  bulbed  freely  at  the  base,  or 
was  about  three  parts  grown,  some  fine  soil  was 
drawn  round  the  base  of  each  plant  to  blanch  the 
portion  exposed,  and  this  needs  to  be  done  about 
two  weeks  before  using.  The  plant  is  cut  just 
under  the  soil  and  cooked  as  desired.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  select  the  largest  growths  first  when 
cutting  begins.  If  seed  is  sown  early  in  April, 
there  will  be  nice  heads  for  early  July  use.  A 
•Tune  sowing  will  give  an  August  supply,  and  an 
August  sowing  a  crop  in  late  autumn. 

As  regards  cooking,  I  am  unable  to  give  the 
Italian  modes  ;  and,  strange  to  relate,  in  France 
and  Germany,  where  vegetables  are  made  so  much 
use  of  and  in  such  variety,  the  Florence  Fennel 
is  not  used  as  largely  as  many  other  vegetables. 
It  is  excellent  when  boiled  and  served  as  a  second 
course  or  dressed  vegetable  with  rich  gravy,  and 
I  have  seen  it  braised,  also  cooked  and  served 
like  Celery.  It  is  excellent  when  used  cold  as  a 
salad.  It  requires  about  forty  minutes'  boiling, 
and  should  be  placed  in  boiling  water.  A  well- 
known  lover  of  good  vegetables  told  me  that 
this  vegetable  is  excellent  when  boiled  and 
served  on  toast  with  melted  butter,  with 
some  of  the  Sweet  Fennel,  finely  cut  up,  used  as 
a  sauce.  G.  Wythes. 


corresponding  increase  by  day  and  air  admitted 
on  all  favourable  occasions. 

Naturally,  a  rather  anxious  time  is  when  the 
trees  are  in  flower,  and  a  few  sunny  days  at 
this  period  are  looked  upon  as  a  blessing,  for 
nothing  tends  to  the  free  distribution  of  the 
pollen  so  much  as  a  bright  sunny  day.  Even 
with  that  valuable  asset  it  is  necessary  to  take 
the  precaution  of  going  over  the  blooms  with  a 
rabbit's  tail,  this  being  fastened  on  to  the  end 
of  a  cane  for  convenience.  Of  course,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  the  house  rather  dry,  and 
unless  inclement  weather  makes  it  impossible,  a 
little  air  should  be  admitted  for  a  lew  hours. 

When  flowering  is  over,  syringe  freely  twice  a 
day  with  tepid  rain-water  ;  this  will  keep  down 
any  pests  and  supply  a  nice  growing  atmosphere 
when  the  house  is  closed.  Should  green  fly  have 
made  its  appearance,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
fumigate.  When  the  trees  are  swelling  their 
fruits,  a  top-dressing  of  horse  or  cow  manure  is 
most  beneficial.  A  good  artificial,  such  as  Le 
Fruitier,  should  be  applied  when  watering  in 
the  early  stages.  The  border  must  be  kept 
uniformly  moist  at  all  times  of  the  year.  All 
Peach-growers  are  aware  that  dryness  at  the 
roots,  especially  at  a  critical  stage,  is  more  often 
the  cause  of  bud  and  fruit  dropping  than  any- 
thing else,  and  when  resting  will  cause  the  buds 
to  shrivel. 

Diijfryn  Gardens,  Cardiff.  A.  Cobb. 


FLOWERING    CACTI   AND    THEIR 
CULTURE. 

THERE  is  no  doubt  that  the  gorgeous- 
flowered  members  of  the  Cactus 
family,  especially  those  of  the  Phyllo- 
oaoti  group,  have  advanced  consider- 
ably in  popular  favour  during  recent 
years.  It  is,  however,  but  a  return 
to  the  position  they  at  one  time  held  in  gardens, 
as  formerly  specimen  plants  of  the  different 
members  of  the  Cactus  family  were  familiar 
features  in  many  establishments. 

In  a  copy  of  a  gardening  paper  for  1839  I  find 
mention  of  a  specimen  of  Cereus  speciosissimus, 
which  was  growing  in  the  stove  of  Thomas 
Holman,  Esq.,  at  Folkestone.  This  plant  was 
trained  to  copper  wires  4  inches  apart,  and 
completely  covered  a  trellis  25  feet  by  S  feet. 
During  the  flowering  period  there  were  often 
from  thirty  to  fifty  of  its  magnificent  flowers 
open  at  the  same  time. 

Such  a  sight  might  be  sought  for  in  vain  at  the 
present  day,  and  we  are  now  content  with  com- 
paratively small  specimens,  which,  however, 
flower  freely  while  still  young.  At  the  Temple 
Show  this  year  a  couple  of  groups  of  hybrid 
Phyllocacti  were  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Veitch  of 
Chelsea  and  Messrs.  Cannell  of  Swanley  respec- 
tively. These  groups  proved  to  be  frequently  a 
source  of  attraction,  and,  judging  by  the  remarks 
overheard,  many  of  the  onlookers  decided  to  take 
up  their  culture. 

For  this  no  elaborate  preparations  are  neces- 
sary, as  the  amateur  with  but  a  single  greenhouse 
can  cultivate  them  in  a  perfectly  satisfactory 
manner  provided  the  structure  is  a  light  one  and 
the  temperature  during  the  winter  does  not 
at  any  time  fall  much  below  50°.  In  some 
country  districts  these  flowering  Cacti  are 
favourite  window  plants  ;  and  well  suited  they 
are  for  this  purpose  provided  the  window  is  a 
light  and  sunny  one,  as  if  shaded,  though  the 
plants  will  grow  freely  enough,  the  flowers  will 
be  but  few.  Individually  the  blossoms  do  not 
last  long,  but  good  specimens  will  keep  up  a  supply 
for  some  time  The  different  hybrid  Phyllocacti 
now  in  our  gardens  have  been  obtained  by  the 
crossing  and  intercrossing  of  a  few  species.  In 
order  to  understand  their  culture,  one  has  but  to 
consider  the  conditions  under  which  these  few 
original  species  exist  in  their  native  country. 
They  are  usually  found  in  full  sunshine  and  so 
situated  that  the  soil  is  well  drained  and  at 
times  very  dry.  Under  cultivation  the  hybrid 
Phyllocacti  do  not  require  shading  except  during 
the  flowering  period,  as  direct  sunshine  at  that 
time  lessens  the  duration  of  the  blossoms,  while 
at  other  seasons  it  tends  to  ripen  the  wood  and 
thus  assists  in  the  formation  of  flower-buds. 

Repotting,  when  necessary,  should  be  carried 
out  as  soon  as  the  flowering  season  is  over,  as 
there  is  then  ample  time  for  the  plants  to  take 
possession  of  the  new  soil  before  winter.  In 
carrying  out  this  operation  the  pots  must  be 
quite  clean  and  effectually  drained,  A  very 
suitable  soil  may  consist  principally  of  loam 
lightened  by  a  little  leaf-mould  and  sand. 
The  proportion  of  these  last  two  will  depend 
upon  the  consistency  of  the  loam,  but  enough 
must  be  added  thereto  in  order  to  keep  it 
sufficiently  open  for  the  water  to  drain  away. 
For  large  pots  a  little  brick-rubble  mixed  with 
the  soil  is  helpful.  In  potting,  the  soil  must  be 
pressed  down  moderately  firm,  but  not  too  hard, 
and  the  plant  should  then  be  secured  to  a  neat 
stick,  looping  up  the  side  branches.  This  is 
necessary  owing  to  their  weight,  and  if  not 
done  at  once  the  plant  is  apt  to  sway  about  and 
thus  greatly  retard  the  production  of  new  roots. 
In  the  case  of  large  specimens  annual  repotting 
is  by  no  means  necessary,  in  which  case  the 
plants  are  greatly  assisted  by  an  occasional  dose 
of   weak   liquid  manure   and   soot-water   mixed 


July  3,  1909.) 


THE    GARDEN. 


325 


during  the  summer  months.  As  previously  stated, 
sunshine  is  helpful  at  all  times,  except  when  the 
plants  are  actually  in  flower,  but  it  is  particularly 
necessary  during  the  latter  part  of  the  summer 
and  in  autumn,  for  upon  a  thorough  ripening  of 
the  wood  the  future  display  of  flowers  depends. 

The  watering  of  these  Phyllocaeti  is  a 
stumbling-block  to  many,  as  by  some  they  are 
kept  in  a  constant  state  of  moisture,  while 
others  err  in  the  other  extreme  by  keeping  them 
too  dry.  Throughout  the  summer  they  need  to 
be  watered  with  moderate  freedom,  lessening 
the  supply,  of  course,  as  autumn  advances.  In 
the  depth  of  winter  very  little  will 
be  required,  but  at  no  time  must 
the  soil  become  parched  up. 

Propagation  is  readily  effected  by 
means  of  cuttings,  which,  however, 
take  a  fair  time  to  root.  Side 
shoots  from  4  inches  to  6  inches  in 
length  form  the  best  cuttings.  In 
separating  these  shoots  from  the 
parent  plant  the  better  plan  is  to 
pull  them  out  of  their  sockets  with 
a  side  twist,  though  a  little  assist- 
ance from  a  sharp  knife  will  be 
sometimes  necessary.  The  pots 
prepared  for  the  cuttings  should 
be  drained  rather  more  than  estab- 
lished plants  require  and  a  little 
more  sand  mixed  with  the  soil 
than  has  been  recommended  for 
these.  It  matters  little  -ohether 
the  cuttings  are  put  singly  into 
small  pots  or  about  four  around  a 
pot  5  inches  in  diameter.  A  shelf 
in  the  greenhouse  is  a  very  suitable 
place  for  the  cuttings,  as  they  do 
not  require  to  be  kept  in  a  close 
case  as  many  plants  do.  The  soil 
needs  to  be  kept  moist,  but  an 
excess  of  moisture  will  probably 
prove  fatal.  If  possible,  the  out- 
tings  should  be  taken  in  the 
spring  or  during  the  first  half  of 
the  summer,  as  in  this  way  they 
are  allowed  sufficient  time  to  get 
well  rooted  before  winter. 

In   making   a  select?ion  of  these 
showy  flowers  it  must  be  borne  in 
mind    that    the    different    raisers 
name  their  own  productions ;  hence 
some  distributed  by  one  person  may 
be  almost,  if    not  quite,   identical 
with   those  sent   out   by  another. 
The    varieties    raised    by   Messrs. 
Veitch  are  among   the  most  note- 
worthy of  all,  by  reason  of  the  fact 
that  so  many  of  them  have  at  one 
time  or  other  been  given  awards  of  merit  by  the 
Royal    Horticultural    Society.       This   strain    is 
remarkable  for  the  soft  delicate  tints  of  many  of 
the  varieties,  which  range  in  colour  from  creamy 
white   through  different  shades  of  pink'to  the 
more  vividly  tinted  forms.     Some  of  these  last 
have   the  petals  shot  with  ■violet  or  purple  in 
such  a  way  that  the  flower  appears  to  be  of 
different   colours,   according   to   the  standpoint 
from  which  it  is  viewed. 

Besides  these  different  hybrid  Phyllocaeti, 
others  worthy  of  mention  and  well  suited  for 
association  therewith  are  Cereus  flagelliformis, 
the  Rat's-tail  Cactus  of  cottages,  which  may 
be  often  seen  hung  up  in  a  window.  In  this  way 
the  cord-like,  pendulous  shoots  are  seen  to  con- 
siderable advantage.  The  rose-coloured  flowers 
are  very  pretty.  A  hybrid  between  this  species 
and  C.  speoiosissimus  known  as  C  Mallisonii  is 
also  very  desirable.  Phyllocactus  crenatus  bears 
large  creamy  white  flowers ;  and  one  that  must  on 
no  account  be  passed  over  is  P.  phyllanthoides, 
of  which  an  improved  form  known  as  Gernim 
Empress  formed  a  very  notable  feature  in 
Messrs.  Cannell's  group  at  the  recent  Temple 
Show.  This  has  pretty  pink  flowers,  which  are 
borne  quite  freely  when  the  plants  are  but  a  few 
inches  high.  H.  P. 


COLOURED     PLATE 

PLATE    1377. 


UACTUS-FLOWEKED  CINERARIAS. 
URIXG  recent  years  the  old-fashioned 
but  brilliant  greenhouse  Cineraria 
has  been  very  much  improved,  and 
this  year  has  seen  the  introduction 
of  a  new  type  properly  named  the 
Cactus-flowered.  As  will  be  seen 
by  the  accompanying  coloured  plate,  the  speci- 
mens have  the  narrow  incurved  petals  which  are 


UADiUC 


Sutton,  instead  of  discarding  the  narrow-petalled 
plants  which  appeared  in  the  old,  broader- 
petalled  type,  saved  the  plants  and  obtained 
seed  from  them,  and  by  careful  selection  since 
that  time  have  worked  this  strain  up  to  its 
present  form.  Probably  many  of  our  readers 
will  remember  the  fine  group  of  these  Cinerarias 
staged  by  this  firm  at  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  meeting  on  March  23  last,  when  this 
strain  received  an  award  of  merit.  Our  coloured 
plate  was  prepared  from  a  colour  photograph 
taken  in  one  of  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons'  houses 
at  Reading,  and  demonstrates  fully  the  value  of 
these  plants  for  greenhouse  decora- 
tion. We  understand  that  this 
new  race  needs  precisely  the  same 
culture  as  that  afforded  the  older 
type. 


IRIS   HYBRIDA   SIR  TREVOR 


LAWRENCE, 


(Xalm-aJ  size  ) 


so  typical  of  the  Cactus  Dahlia,  aud  it  will  also 
be  noticed  that  this  type  possesses  some  very 
attractive  new  colour  shades  of  pink  in  addition 
to  the  richer  colour  shades  of  the  older  flowered 
varieties.  It  is  to  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons  of 
Beading  that  we  owe  the  introduction  of  this 
new    type.       About    eight    years    ago    Messrs. 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 


WILD    VIOLETS. 

A  LTHOUGH    spring    has 
/\  vanished  and  the  more 

/  %  brilliant  and  longer 
/  \  days  of  summer  are 
y  ^  now  with  us,  this 
should  not  prevent  all 
who  love  their  gardens  from  giving 
a  thought  to  the  less  glaring 
flowers  that  charm  our  hearts 
during  the  early  months  of  the 
year.  One  of  the  sweetest  yet 
simplest  of  these  is  the  wild  Violet, 
of  which  there  are  several  distinct 
sorts,  that  shown  on  page  324 
being  the  white-flowered  single 
variety  that  modestly  pushes  forth 
its  fragrant  flowers  on  grassy  banks 
euid  sheltered  nooks.  What  it  is 
capable  of  doing  when  it  finds  a 
position  to  suit  it  will  be  readily 
seen  in  the  illustration.  There  must 
be  in  many  gardens  wild  grassy 
spots  where  this  Violet  would  be  at 
home,  and  as  plants  can  be  obtained 
from  almost  any  hedgerow  there 
should  not  be  much  trouble  in 
establishing  a  colony.  No  prepara- 
tion of  the  soil  beyond  cutting 
away  a  little  of  the  turf  is  neces- 
sary, as  the  plant  would  be  out  of 
place  in  any  part  of  the  garden 
where  cultivation  was  carried  out. 
In  addition  to  the  white  variety 
t  here  are,  of  course,  several  blue- 
flowered  ones  to  be  found  growing 
wild  in  our  hedgerows,  and  these 
are  equally  suitable  for  planting  in 
semi-wild  spots  in  the  woodland. 


IRIS   HYBRIDA  SIR   TREVOR 
LA\VRENCE. 

Hybridists  appear  to  be  exceed- 
ingly busy  with  the  many  forms  ol 
Irises  now  known  to  growers  in 
this  country,  and  already  we  have 
many  beautiful  hybrids  as  the 
results  of  their  labours.  The  flower 
illustrated  is  one  of  the  best  of 
these  new  additions,  and  is  the 
result  of  a  cross  belween  I.  pallida 
da'.matiea  and  I.  iberiea.  It  was 
raised  by  the  late  Professor  Foster 
of  Cambridge,  and  was  shown  by 
Mr.  Amos  Perry  at  the  Temple 
Show  this  year,  when  it  gained  an  award 
of  merit.  The  standards  and  falls  are  of  deep 
rose-mauve  colour,  and  both,  as  will  be  seen 
in  the  illustration,  are  very  prettily  veined. 
Another  new  hybrid  was  shown  by  Mr.  Perry 
at  the  same  show,  and  this  also  was  of  high 
merit. 


326 


THE     GARDEN. 


July  3,  1909. 


THE    NANKEEN    LILY. 

(LlLIUM   TESTACEUM.) 

This  charming  Lily  is  one  of  the  most  distinct 
of  the  whole  family,  and  what  is  moie,  it  is  of 
an  accommodating  nature,  thriving  in  the  open 
ground  and  also  in  pots.  The  popular  name  of 
the  Nankeen  Lily  is  derived  from  the  colour  of 
the  flowers,  which  is  of  a  clear  nankeen  tint,  not 
to  be  found  in  any  other  kind. 

It  is  too  well  known  to  need  any  detailed 
description  ;  therefore  it  will  suffice  to  say  that 
this  Lily  will,  under  favourable  conditions,  reach 
a  height  of  .5  feet  to  8  feet,  and  when  in  a  mass 
or  clump,  as  seen  in  the  accompanying  illustra- 
tion, it  forms  a  delightful  picture.  The  wand-like 
stems  are,  as  a  rule,  well  furnished  with  leaves 
and  terminated  by  a  head  of  prettily  reflexed 
flowers,  which,  as  in  all  the  Martagon  Lilies,  are 
of  a  drooping  nature.  The  bright  red  anthers 
form  a  very  striking  feature  against  the  rest  of 
the  flower. 

The  Nankeen  Lily  will  thrive  in  a  well-drained 
loamy  soil,  particularly  if  it  is  rather  sandy. 
Like  many  others,  it  is  seen  at  its  best  when 
planted  among  low-growing  evergreen?,  which 
must  not,  however,  be  too  close  together.  The 
flowers  have  a  powerful  and  pleasing  perfume. 
The  origin  of  this  beautiful  Lily  is  doubtful ; 
but  the  generally  accepted  idea  is  that  it  is  a 
hybrid  between  Lilium  candidura  and  L.  chaloe- 
donicum.  Though  this  theory  is  borne  out  by 
its  general  appearance,  there  does  not  appear  to 
be  any  absolute  proof  of  its  correctness.  The 
bulb  of  L.  testaceum  much  resembles  that  of  the 
Madonna   Lily    (L.    candidum),    which    is    the 


suggestive,  as  when  thoroughly  established  and 
in  good  condition  it  is  really  a  tall  and  stately 
Lily. 

As  nothing  authentic  seems  to  be  known 
concerning  the  origin  of  L.  testaceum,  I  have 
been  very  much  interested  in  an  account  of  its 
early  history  that  has  come  under  my  notice  in  a 
publication  of  1 22  pages,  entitled :  ' '  Monographic, 
Historique  et  LittJraire  des  Lis,  par  F.  de  Cannart 
d'Hamale,  President  de  la  federation  des  Sooi(5ti^s 
d'Horticulture  de  Belgique  &o,"  printed  at 
Malines  in  1870.  Somewhat  curtailed,  its  early 
history  is  given  as  follows  : 

' '  There  is  also  another  Lily  with  recurved 
petals,  concerning  the  origin  of  which  we  have 
but  a  vague  idea,  but  which,  nevertheless, 
appears  to  be  Japanese,  viz.,  Lilium  testaceum  of 
Lindley  {the  Nankeen  Lily).  It  was  first  dis- 
covered by  M.  Fr.  Ad.  Haage,  jun.,  of  Erfurt 
accidentally  in  a  large  consignment  of  Martagons, 
which  he  had  received  from  Holland  in  1836  and 
with  which  it  had  been  mixed.  The  plant  was 
introduced  into  Belgium  by  L.  Van  Houtte  of 
Ghent,  who  ha4  received  a  case  full  of  it  from  M. 
Von  Weissenborn  of  Erfurt  in  exchange  for  some 
Fuchsias.  This  exchange  was  made  in  1840  or 
1841,  at  which  time  there  is  no  question  that  of 
this  unknown  Lily  three  persons  of  Lille  in 
France  each  possessed  an  offset.  One  only  of 
these  offsets  chanced  to  flower  at  Esquermeslez- 
Lille,  and  showed  an  umbel  of  pendant  blossoms, 
with  petals  reflexed  like  the  Martagons,  but 
larger  and  of  a  beautiful  nankeen  colour  slightly 
tinged  with  rose,  and  dotted  with  a  deeper 
tint  at  the  base.  The  bright  orange  coloured 
stameas  served   to   add   to   the  beauty  of   the 


THE^NANKEEN^I.rLY,    LILIUM    TESTACEUM,    IN    A   RHODODENDRON    BED    AT    KEW. 


earliest  of  all  Lilies  to  start  into  'growth.  Next 
comes  L.  testaceum,  or,  rather,  it  appears  above 
ground  at  much  the  same  time  as  the  Japanese 
L.  Hansonii,  while  these  two  are  closely  followed 
by  the  scarlet  Turk's-oap  (L.  ohalcedonioum). 
This  last,  although  it  starts  early  into  growth,  is 
among  the  later  Lilies  to  flower,  as  it  frequently 
does  not  bloom  till  July  is  well  advanced, 
whereas  L.  testaceum  is  usually  at  its  best 
towards  the  latter  part  of  June. 

When  in  pots  and  brought  en  under  glass,  it  can, 
of  course,  be  had  in  flower  earlier  ;  indeed,  a  fine 
mass  of  it  formed  one  of  the  most  notable 
features  in  Messrs.  Wallace's  group  at  the  Temple 
Show  this  year.  Besides  the  specific  name 
ef  testaceum,  it  is  also  known  as  L.  isabelli- 
num   and  L.   excelsum.     This  last  name  is  very 


flower.  M.  Van  Houtte,  who  happened  to  be  at 
Lille,  was  fortunate  enough  to  see  this  splendid 
novelty.  He  eventually  received  from  M.  Von 
Weissenborn  an  order  for  Fuchsias,  with  a  post- 
script in  the  following  terms  :  '  If  by  any  chance 
you  want  the  nankeen-coloured  Lily  I  have  a 
quantity  at  your  service. '  M.  Van  Houtte  did 
not  think  twice  about  it,  and  seized  with  avidity 
the  good  fortune  offered  to  him.  He  accepted 
the  exchange,  and  soon  became  the  possessor  of 
a  case  more  than  a  yard  square  full  of  Nankeen 
Lilies  of  all  sizes,  the  largest  bulbs  measuring 
more  than  a  foot  in  circumference.  This  news 
soon  spread  to  Lille,  and  there  caused  much 
talk  and  great  disappointment  when  the 
possessors  of  the  three  offsets  were  convinoed 
that  the   Lily  of    which   M.    Van   Houtte  had 


become  the  owner  was  the  same  as  those  which 
they  guarded  so  jealously.  The  Nankeen  Lily 
passed  from  Belgium  to  England,  where  it 
flowered  for  the  first  time,  in  1842,  with  Messrs. 
RoUisson.  It  was  figured  and  described  in  the 
Botanical  Register  by  Dr.  Lindley  in  1843  under 
the  name  of  L.  testaceum.  Dr.  Kimtze  of  Halle 
had  deseribed  it  as  L.  isabellinum,  and  it  also 
bore  the  name  of  L.  excelsum  among  gardeners." 
Such  is  the  account  of  the  early  history  of  this 
beautiful  Lily.  H.  P. 


SWEET  PEA  CHAT. 
Watering. — There  are  some  people  in  this  world 
to  whom  the  term  "watering"  means  the  appli- 
cation of  water  to  the  roots  or  branches  of  a 
plant  on  every  available  occasion  and  nothing 
more ;  but  the  intelligent  cultivator  knows  full 
well  that  there  is  no  detail  of  management  that 
exercises  a  greater  effect  upon  the  results  than 
this,  and  in  Sweet  Pea  culture  it  is  in  some  real 
degree  the  man  who  knows  how  and  when  to 
water  who  is  likely  to  achieve  the  finest  results. 
There  is  nothing  easier  in  gardening  than  to  err 
in  watering,  and  the  trouble  may  arise  from 
shortness  or  the  reverse.  It  is  simple  to  speak 
broadly  and  say  that  in  dry  summer  weather  the 
plants  will  demand  water  about  once  a  week, 
and  if  this  is  done  someone  will  certainly  follow 
the  advice  to  the  bitter  end,  with  the  result  that 
he  is  bound  to  go  wrong  sooner  or  later.  No  one 
can  advise  in  this  matter  who  is  not  on  the  spot. 
The  weather  is,  of  course,  a  dominating  factor, 
while  the  nature  of  the  soil  is  a  subject  that  is 
equally  worthy  of  consideration  in  deciding  the 
frequency  of  application.  When  all  has  been 
said,  in  few  or  many  words,  the  end  will  have  to 
be  to  tell  each  man  to  use  his  common  sense  and 
judgment  and  water  when  it  is  required,  and 
never  at  any  other  time.  If  this  is  made  a  fixed 
rule,  there  can  be  no  going  astray,  since  the 
grower  will  thoroughly  soak  the  soil  just  in 
advance  of  dryness,  whether  he  has  to  do  it  once 
a  week,  twice  a  week  or  once  a  month.  In  all 
cases  the  drink  should  be  a  generous  one — 
nothing  short  of  three  gallons  to  the  square 
yard  in  ordinary  soils  and  five  gallons  in 
light,  sandy  land  that  is  freely,  possioly  exces- 
sively, drained  will  be  of  use.  It  is  wise  in 
the  use  of  water  coming  direct  from  mains 
to  make  drills  along  each  side  of  the  rows 
and  repeatedly  fill  them  so  that  the  cold  water 
shall  not  strike  directly  on  to  the  stems  or 
surface  roots. 

Feeding. — This  follows  naturally  after  water- 
ing ;  indeed,  we  water  to  feed  our  plants,  and 
the  terms  are  therefore  in  some  sense  tauto- 
logical. But  in  gardening  feeding  means  the 
application  of  manure  in  one  form  or  another  and 
generally  as  a  liquid  manure.  In  dealing  with 
Sweet  Peas  in  this  relation  we  have  plants  that  will 
stand  and  derive  benefit  from  practically  unlimited 
supplies,  provided  that  whatever  is  given  is 
never  strong  and  that  we  can  find  a  satisfac- 
tory variety  of  diet.  Satiation  follows  quickly 
upon  the  continued  use  of  one  kind,  and  we  see 
that  our  plants  are  not  responding  to  our  atten- 
tions as  they  ought  to  do  ;  hence  the  necessity 
for  changes.  Nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of 
ammonia  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to  the  gallon  of 
water,  three  gallons  to  the  square  yard  ;  nitrate 
of  potash,  half  an  ounce  to  the  gallon ;  soot- water 
or  liquid  manure  from  natural  excreta,  both 
used  of  pale  ale  colour,  are  all  excellent ;  but  the 
third  named  is  probably  the  best  of  the  concen- 
trated foods,  and  the  two  last  named  best  of  the 
whole  lot,  if  the  material  from  which  the  liquid 
is  made  is  really  good — that  is  to  say,  if  it 
contained  all  the  essential  plant  foods  before 
it  was  converted  into  liquid.  In  any  case 
it  [is  imperative  that  the  food  shall  follow 
upon  j  applications  of  pure  water,  and  the 
frequency  of  use  must  be  governed  by  the  soil 
and  the  plants. 

Mulching. — It  is,  however,  most  desirable 
that  watering  shall  be  avoided  aa  far  as  possible, 


July  3,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


327 


and  to  this  end  the  application  of  a  heavy 
mulching  of  natural  manure  is  strongly  advo- 
cated, or,  should  this  not  be  possible,  let  the 
clippings  from  the  lawn  take  its  place.  If  the 
surface  were  lightly  hoed  in  advance  of  dressing 
and  the  soil  beneath  were  pleasantly  moist,  the 
covering  would  ensure  the  retention  of  the 
moisture  and  food  in  the  soil  and,  at  the  same 
time,  keep  the  surface  cool  and  thus  encourage 
the  roots  to  remain  well  up  to  the  top,  where 
they  get  the  full  benefit  of  the  warm,  fresh  air. 
One  objection  to  the  use  of  manure  in  this 
manner  lies  in  the  wretched  state  that  it  assumes 
after  watering ;  but  if  it  is  drawn  aside  when 
water  has  to  be  given  and  then  thrown  forwaid 
again,  this  trouble  is  immediately  and  completely 
overcome.  In  no  case  must  the  mulching  be 
omitted  on  light  soils,  or  the  plants  will  inevitably 
suffer.  Spencer. 

A    SIMPLE    AND    BEAUTIFUL 
ROCKERY. 

The  cost  of  a  rockery  is  often  considered  beyond 
the  reach  of  many  who  would  fain  have  in  their 
gardens  this  valuable  feature — valuable  not 
only  for  its  picturesqueness,  but  also  because  it 
afifords  facilities  for  the  cultivation  of  flowers 
which  cannot  well  be  grown  in  the  ordinary 
border.  Apart  from  their  requirements  in  other 
respects,  many  of  these  plants  require  to  be 
hanging  over  stones  in  order  to  reveal  their  full 
beauty,  and  on  the  elevated  rookwork  they  look 
infinitely  better  than  on  the  level  ground.  The 
rockery  here  illustrated  from  a  photograph  is 
one  which  is  of  the  simplest  character. 

The  soil  of  which  it  is  composed  is  that  which 
was  excavated  in  the  course  of  the  preparation 
of  the  ground  for  the  foundations  of  the  dwelling. 
Instead  of  this  being  carted  away  or  spread  over 
the  garden,  as  is  too  often  the  manner  of  the 
builder,  the  latter  received  instructions  to  have 
it  wheeled  away  into  a  mound  to  be  made  in  the 
part  of  the  garden  selected  for  the  rockery. 
This  was  provided  for  in  the  contract,  and  no 
additional,  but  instead  less,  cost  was  involved 
to  the  builder.  This  mound  was  but  little 
interfered  with  in  form,  but  some  narrow  paths 
were  cut  through  it  a  few  inches  beneath  the  level 
of  the  mound,  and  these  were  edged  with  stones. 
Then  the  mound  was  roughly  terraced  with  the 
stones  left  by  the  builder^these  were  of  sand- 
stone, by  the  way — and  the  terraces  made  flat  on 
the  surface.  These  stones  also  would  have 
otherwise  been  carted  away,  and  the  builder  was 
thus  saved  expense,  to  the  gain  of  the  proprietor 
as  well.  In  few  cases  was  any  fresh  soil  added, 
the  vast  majority  of  the  flowers  being  planted  in 
the  soil  from  the  foundations,  which  consisted  of 
a  rather  poor  loam  with  a  host  of  stones  in  it  ; 
but,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  illustration,  the 
flowers  hwe  thriven  in  this  medium,  as  they 
have  only  been  in  this  rockery  for  about  four 
years,  and  no  healthier  or  freer-flowering  set  of 
alpine  flowers  can  be  wished  for. 

The  Violas  that  can  be  seen  are  principally 
plants  of  the  wonderfully  free  and  continuous 
blooming  V.  cornuta  Papilio.  Then  several 
Saxifragas  may  be  observed.  There  are  S.  Rhei, 
S.  R.  superba,  S.  muscoides,  S.  Guildford  Seed- 
ling, S.  FerguBoni,  S.  Aizoon  in  variety,  S. 
primuloides,  Armeria  pinifolia,  A.  laucheana 
and  A.  plantaginea.  Alyssums  are  also  doing 
well,  and  some  of  the  best  forms  of  Anemone 
nemorosa  are  also  cultivated.  Ericas,  New 
Zealand  Veronicas,  Heucheras,  Hypericums, 
Anthemises,  Phloxes  of  the  subulata  class, 
Aquilegias  and  many  other  flowers  find  a  place 
on  this  rookery.  Constructed  of  what  is  practi- 
cally waste  material,  and  with  no  pretentions 
to  being  an  imitation  of  natural  rookwork, 
it  is  yet  a  true  home  for  flowers — a  home  in 
which  they  delight,  and  in  which  they  give 
their  lovely  flowers  with  a  freedom  unsur- 
passed by  those  which  are  cultivated  on  more 
costly  rockwork. 

Dumfries.  S.  Arnott. 


THE   ROSEJGARDEN 

UNPRUNED  BUSHES  OF  TEA  ROSES. 

WHAT  some  might  term  a  neglected 
bush  of  the  old  Rose  Safrano 
was  on  June  16  to  be  seen  in 
full  bloom  upon  the  surface 
of  a  grave  in  the  pretty  little 
cemetery  at  Leigh  -  on  -  Sea. 
Apparently  this  bush  had  had  no  pruner's  knife 
or  secateurs  over  it  since  it  was  planted  ;  but 
there  it  was,  flourishing  like  a  Lilac  bush,  fully 
6  feet  in  height  and  resplendent  in  bloom.  Two 
huge  bushes  of  the  old  common  Monthly  Rose 
were  close  by,  and  the  trio  made  a  picture  of 


simply  because  these  latter  bear  a  magnificent 
bloom.  For  my  part,  give  me  a  huge  bush  like 
this  Safrano,  where  one  may  out  armfuls  of  Roses 
if  they  desire  ;  but,  of  course,  I  do  not  recom- 
mend the  practice,  or  we  should  defeat  our  object 
in  possessing  some  large  specimen  shrub  Roses. 
Many  speak  and  write  as  though  the  Briars  and 
such  like  Roses  are  the  only  ones  to  grow  as 
shrubs.  My  advice  is,  give  the  Teas  a  trial. 
Plant  such  decorative  beauties  as  G.  Nabonnand, 
and  try  and  obtain  some  of  the  older  sorts,  such 
as  Mme.  Carnot,  a  whitish  lemon  Rose,  which 
I  saw  last  summer  growing  splendidly,  and  many 
others  that  our  Continental  growers,  happily, 
still  cultivate,  and  I  can  promise  them  a  real 
feast  of  Roses.  It  would  be  interesting  to  readers 


A  SIMPLE   AMD    BEAUTIFDL  ROCK   GARDEN. 


very  great  beauty.  Growing  in  the  stiffest 
clay  of  Essex,  there  was  a  Tea  Rose  the  very 
ideal  of  what  Nature  intended  these  beautiful 
Tea  Roses  to  be.  What  an  object-lesson  to  those 
men  who  seem  to  glory  in  hacking  their  Roses 
down  to  the  ground  level  each  year.  Surely  we 
have  much  to  learn  or  to  unlearn  in  our  treatment 
of  the  glorious  Roses  belonging  to  the  tribe  of 
which  Safrano  is  one  of  its  oldest  representa- 
tives. We  often  read  of  the  immense  size  such 
Roses  attain  on  the  Riviera  and  similarly 
favoured  places,  little  thinking  that  they  will  do 
the  same  with  us  if  only  we  encourage  them.  A 
learned  judge  from  Egypt  told  me  last  year 
that  he  had  Medea  growing  with  him  to  a  height 
of  6  feet.  What  a  sight  it  must  be !  Such 
Roses  as  Marie  van  Houtte  will  attain  on  a  wall, 
even  in  our  own  country,  a  height  of  20  feet ;  but 
how  rarely  we  find  this  dear  old  favourite  more 
than  the  customary  3  feet  to  4  feet  high. 

It  seems  to  me  that  a  very  important  detail  is 
to  have  deep  holes  prepared  for  these  Roses, 
even  though  the  soil  be  a  heavy  clay.  Take,  for 
instance,  a  grave  surface.  We  all  know  how  the 
soil  is  thrown  out  to  a  depth  of  about  6  feet,  and, 
of  course,  the  clay  is  returned  first.  I  would, 
therefore,  suggest  a  trial  of  this  plan  next 
autumn,  and  give  the  Boses  a  good  space  between 
each  specimen,  say,  about  5  feet.  Ju3t  let  the 
plants  grow  as  they  like  and  keep  the  knife  in  the 
pocket.  There  are  scores,  aye  !  even  hundreds, 
of  delightful  Tea  Roses  that  would  grow  equally 
as  well  as  Safrano  which  have  been  discarded  for 
some  of  the  very  stumpy-growing  Hybrid  Teas, 


of  The  Gabben  if  those  who  possess  some  extra- 
ordinary specimens  such  as  I  have  attempted  to 
describe  would  give  some  particulars  of  sorts 
and  treatment.  Some  time  ago  a  correspondent 
informed  me  that  he  had  a  W.  A.  Richardson  on 
a  standard  that  bore  fully  1,500  blooms.  If  the 
Editor  could  give  us  some  illustrations  of  such 
specimens,  he  would  delight  many  besides  the 
writer.  P. 


A  PRETTY  NEW  CHINA  ROSE. 
A  VERY  lovely  novelty  is  Les  Gloriettes,  the 
predominating  colour  being  coppery  red  and  the 
bases  of  the  petals  clear  yellow.  The  flowers  are 
rosette  shaped  and  very  fragrant.  The  China 
Roses  are  a  most  useful  group.  What  a  wealth 
of  beauty  there  is  even  in  the  old  blush  pink 
variety  !  It  is  marvellous  what  a  richness  of 
colour  one  obtains  in  this  Rose  when  it  is 
liberally  watered  with  liquid  manure.  I  have  a 
quantity  planted  this  spring  that  are  now 
yielding  lovely  blooms,  the  buds  being  very 
rich  pink.  Among  the  Chinas  are  to  be  found 
many  of  our  choicest  decorative  Roses.  Comtesse 
de  Cayla  is  splendid  and  of  a  rich  orange  and 
copper  tint,  and  Charlotte  Klemm  is  one  of  the 
most  brilliant  bedders  of  recent  years.  Liure 
L^upont  is  quite  a  new  colour,  a  bright  carmine 
with  a  bluish  tint,  shaded  with  silver.  It  was 
raised  from  Armosa,  crossed  with  Louis  van 
Houtte,  so  it  has  a  little  of  the  Bourbon  blood  in 
it,  for  I  always  look  upon  Armosa  or  Hermosa  as 
much  a  Bourbon  Rose  as  a  China.  P, 


328 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  July  3,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARUEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— The  present  is 
an  excellent  time  to  propagate  the 
old  fashioned  garden  Pinks,  and  as 
the  operation  is  a  very  simple  one, 
the  beginner  should  certainly  make  an 
effort  to  increase  the  existing  stock, 
young  plants  alwaj'S  producing  better  flowers 
than  old  ones.     If  an   old  plant  is  examined   it 


I   —A    CHRYSANTHEMUM    BEADY    FOR    PLACING 
IN   IT.S  FLOWERING   POT. 

will  be  found  that  there  are  a  number  of  sturdy 
leafy  shoots  which  have  not  flowered,  and  these 
make  excellent  slips  or  cuttings.  By  giving 
each  Fhoot  a  sharp  downward  pull  it  will  come 
away  from  the  plant  with  a  little  knob  or  heel 
at  its  bise,  and  frequently  with  a  few  tiny  white 
roots  adhering.  The  lower  leaves  should  be  out, 
not  pulled,  off  and  the  slips  or  cuttings  then 
planted  about  2  inches  or  rather  less  deep  in  well- 
worked  soil,  placing  them  in  rows  9  inches  apart 
and  allowing  a  distance  of  3  inches  between 
the  cuttings.  Choose  a  wet  day  for  the  work  if 
possible,  and  make  the  soil  firm  at  the  base  of 
each  cutting,  affording  water  until  growth  is 
active  should  the  weather  subsequently  prove 
dry.  Bedding  Pansies  for  flowering  early  next 
summer  may  be  sown  now.  I  prefer  to  form  the 
seed-bed  in  a  semi-shaded  spot  outdoors,  and 
sow  the  seeds  in  shallow  drills  9  inches  apart, 
pricking  off  the  seedlings  as  soon  as  they  are 
large  enough  to  handle  comfortably.  For  con- 
venience they  should  be  planted  in  rows  about 
9  inohes  apart  and  the  seedlings  3  inches  asunder. 
Where  the  soil  is  naturally  cold  and  wet,  the 
plants  should  be  lifted  and  placed  in  a  cold 
frame  at  the  end  of  October,  there  to  remain  for 
the  winter,  but  having  an  abundance  of  air  at 
all  times,  the  frame  only  being  needed  to  ward 
ofiP  excessive  rain  and  snow  and  to  give  some 
slight  protection  in  extremely  cold  weather. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Where  space  is  available 
a  sowing  of  a  very  early  Pea  may  be  made  at 
this    time,     and     should     the     weather     prove 


favourable,  an  extra  late  crop  will  be  secured 
from  the  resultant  plants.  Of  course,  watering 
will  be  necessary  and  thin  sowing  is  absolutelj' 
essential.  Peas  that  are  swelling  their  pods 
must  also  be  afforded  good  soakings  of  water 
during  dry  weather,  otherwise  the  flavour  will  be 
of  an  inferior  character.  Push  on  with  the 
planting  of  winter  Greens,  these  usually  occupy- 
ing the  ground  cleared  of  early  Potatoes  and 
Peas.  Sow  more  Lettuces  and  Radishes,  as  if 
the  weather  should  prove  rainy  and  dull  for  a 
few  weeks,  good  salading  would  be  secured  from 
these  crops.  Those  who  appreciate  Parsley 
during  the  winter  months  should  make  a  sowing 
now,  choosing  a  well-drained  and  sheltered  spot 
for  the  purpose.  If  thinned  early  so  as  to  grow 
sturdy  plants  from,  this  sowing  will  frequently 
give  good  leaves  when  the  earlier-sown  plants 
are  bare  or  even  killed. 

Fruit  Oarden.  —  Currants  and  Gooseberries  will 
now  or  shortly  be  ripening,  and  as  birds  are 
notoriously  fond  of  these  it  will  be  necessary  to 
place  nets  over  the  bushes  to  protect  the  crop. 
Considering  how  cheaply  old  fish  netting 
can  be  obtained  and  how  excellent  it  is  for  the 
purpose,  it  is  surprising  that  it  is  not  more 
generally  employed  by  amateurs.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  no  holes  are  left,  especially  under- 
neath the  bushes,  else  the  birds  are  sure  to  find 
their  way  in  to  the  fruit.  Green  fly  is  usually 
prevalent  on  Cherries  and  other  fruit  trees  at 
this  season,  and  although  wh^re  nearly  full- 
grown  fruit  is  present  insecticides  cannot  be 
used,  much  good  can  be  done  by  forcibly  spray- 
ing the  shoots  with  clear  water.  It  is  true  this 
will  only  dislodge  the  pests,  but  it  is  the  best 
that  can  be  done  under  the  circumstances.  If  hot 
water  can  be  used,  so  much  the  better. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — At  this  season, 
owing  to  the  rush  of  work  outdoors,  foliage  plants 
in  the  greenhouse  frequently  get  neglected  and 
([uiokly  become  infested  with  various  kinds  of 
insect  pests.  Advantage  should  be  taken  of  a 
wet  day  to  attend  to  the  sponging  and  cleansing 
of  all  such  specimens,  as  their  welfare  is  3on- 
siderably  advanced  by  so  doing.  The  earliest- 
sown  Cinerarias  will  now  be  large  enough  for 
potting  singly  into  '2-inch  pots,  and  the  work 
must  not  be  long  delayed.  Use  a  friable  soil 
that  contains  some  leaf-mould,  and  after  potting 
stand  the  young  plants  in  a  cool  and  lightly 
shaded  frame.  As  the  pots  become  filled  with 
roots  the  plants  must  be  tranferred  to  others  of 
a  larger  size,  taking  care  to  always  give  them 
a  cool  situation  and  free  ventilation.  H. 


THE  FINAL  POTTING  OF  CHRYSAN- 
THEMUMS. 
Many  beginners  in  the  culture  of  the  Chrysanthe- 
mum succeed  in  growing  their  plants  well  from 
the  cutting  stage  till  they  are  well  established 
in  pots  either  5  inches  or  6  inches  in  diameter. 
It  is  from  this  period,  however,  that  more  care 
and  attention  are  necessary  if  the  plants  are  to  do 
well  and  their  prospects  are  to  be  in  any  degree 
satisfactory.  The  term  "final  potting"  is  a 
technical  expression  thoroughly  well  understood 
and  appreciated  by  the  expert  grower  ;  but  I 
doubt  whether  many  who  have  only  this  season 
attempted  the  cultivation  of  the  "Autumn 
Queen ''  really  understand  its  true  significance. 
To  give  the  Chrysanthemums  their  final  shift  is 
really  to  place  the  plants  in  their  flowering  pots, 
and  as  the  plants  are  to  remain  in  these  pots  for 
several  months,  readers  who  are  beginners  will 
perhaps  understand  the  importance  of  this  final 
potting  operation. 


First  of  all,  the  beginner  should  use  clean  pots 
and  crooks.  Old  pots,  some  of  which  may  be 
green  and  very  dirty,  should  be  given  a 
thorough  cleansing.  The  broken  pots  that  are 
used  for  crooks  should,  if  dirty,  be  treated  in 
similar  fashion.  Do  not  wipe  the  pots  dry  by 
the  aid  of  a  cloth,  but  stand  them  in  the  open 
to  drain.  When  treated  in  this  way  the  pots 
absorb  a  oertain  amount  of  moisture,  and  this 
avoids  the  risk  of  the  pots  absorbing  the  moisture 
in  the  soil  used.  This  may  seem  a  trifling  detail, 
but  really  it  is  a  not  unimportant  factor  in 
successful  culture.  New  pots  should  be  soaked 
in  like  manner,  but  in  this  case  it  is  not 
necessary  to  scrub  or  wash  them. 

Soil  for  this  final  potting  is  a  most  important 
factor.  Use  three  parts  good  fibrous  loam,  one 
part  leaf -mould,  half  a  part  well-rotted  horse- 
manure  and  a  free  dusting  of  wood-ashes  or 
crushed  charcoal.  Clean  road  grit  or  coarse 
silver  sand  should  be  added  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  make  the  compost  porous — a  quarter  of  a  part 
will  probably  be  ample  for  the  purpose.  To  each 
bushel  of  soil  Ekdd  a  o-inch  potful  of  Clay's  Fer- 
tilizer, Ichthemic  Guano  or  any  other  well-known 
and  approved  fertiliser.  Some  growers  also  add 
a  sprinkling  of  either  old  mortar  rubbish  or 
crushed  oyster  shell ;  I  prefer  the  latter,  as  this 
assists  to  sweeten  the  soil.  Next  give  the  heap 
of  soils  a  thorough  mixing,  so  that  the  whole  of 
the  ingredients  may  be  evenly  distributed.  Place 
the  compost  under  cover  in  case  of  rain,  and  in 
the  interval  between  the  present  and  the  actual 


2. — a    plant    finally    potted    in    a    g-INCU 
POT.     note  that  the  sdiiface  soil  is 

WELL    BELOW    THE    RI.M    OF   THE    POT. 

potting  turn  over  the  heap  each  day  to  further 
i mprove  its  condition.  \^^-r' 

Next  proceed  to  orock  the  pots.  Place  a  good 
flat  or  concave  piece  over  the  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pot,  and  follow  on  with  two  or  more 
layers  of  crooks  of  gradually  diminishing  size, 
arranging  these  most  carefully  to  ensure  a  good 
system  of  drainage.  Place  over  the  crocks  a 
handful  or   two  of  the  rougher  portions  of  the 


JULV  3,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


329 


3.  — TWO   PLANTS   POTTED   IN   A   g-INCH    POT. 

soil  to  prevent  the  smaller  particles  working  down 
into  the  drainage  and  clogging  it.  Make  this 
quite  firm  before  placing  a  handful  or  so  of  the 
finer  soil  in  the  bottom  on  which  to  rest  the  base 
of  the  plant  that  is  to  be  finally  potted.  Make 
this  latter  fairly  firm  and  all  will  then  be  ready. 

At  this  point  we  must  consider  what  pots 
should  be  used.  Strong,  vigorous-rooting  plants 
should  be  placed  in  pots  9  inches  in  diameter ; 
those  less  vigorous  will  be  satisfied  with  pots 
8  inches  across,  which  are  also  known  as  "  twenty- 
fours. "  These  pots  are  generally  used  in  the  case  of 
plants  that  are  grown  to  produce  large  individual 
blooms,  but,  of  course,  they  may  be  used  for 
plants  of  a  decorative  character  with  equal 
success.  Those  who  wish  to  economise  space 
should  place  two  plants  in  a  9-inch  pot  or  three 
plants  in  a  10-inch  pot ;  this  is  a  simple  and 
effective  way  of  dealing  with  rather  small  plants 
as  well  as  those  of  larger  size. 

The  readiness  of  a  plant  for  the  final  potting  is 
an  all-important  matter  to  decide.  No  plant 
should  be  placed  in  its  flowering  pot  unless  it  is 
well  rooted  and  has  used  up  much  of  the  plant 
food  in  the  smaller  pot  in  which  it  is  at  present 
growing.  Fig.  1  illustrates  the  character  of  a 
plant  ready  to  be  placed  in  its  flowering  pot.  A 
careful  inspection  of  the  ball  of  soil  will  reveal 
the  mass  of  roots  growing  away  most  vigorously, 
and  unless  the  plant  be  placed  in  a  larger  pot 
very  speedily  the  roots  will  become  so  matted 
together  as  to  make  it  almost  impossible  to  dis- 
entangle them  when  removing  the  crooks  from 
the  base  of  the  plant  previous  to  the  repotting. 
When  placing  the  plant  in  position  in  its  larger 
pot,  keep  the  surface  soil  well  down  below  the 
rim  of  the  pot.  First  adjust  the  plant  in  position 
in  the  centre,  and  then  proceed  to  fill  in  all  round 
with  the  prepared  compost.  Do  this  gradually, 
making  the  soil  firm  with  the  aid  of  a  wooden 
wedge-shaped  rammer,  taking  care  all  the  time 
not  to  damage  or  bruise  the  roots  in  the  process. 
Continue  this  till  the  surface  level  is  reached, 
when  the  soil  should  be  made  quite  firm  with  the 
hands.  On  no  account  ram  the  surface  soil,  or  the 
damage  may  be  irreparable.  When  completed 
the  plant  should  present  an  appearance  similar 
to  that  seen  in  Fig.  2.  The  reason  why  there 
should  be  plenty  of  space  left  below  the  rim  of 
the  pot  is  that  ample  supplies  of  water  may  be 
given  as  and  when  required. 

Those  who  wish  to  grow  two  plants  in  each 
flowering   pot    should   use  two    plants    of    one 


variety,  and  as  nearly  as  possible  of  even  size. 
There  should  be  a  small  amount  of  space  between 
the  plants  when  placed  in  position,  and  the  soil 
should  be  made  quite  firm  between  them  as  well 
as  near  to  the  edge  of  the  pot.  Two  plants 
finally  potted  are  depicted  in  Fig.  3.  These 
plants  are  growing  in  a  9-inch  pot.  Three  plants 
potted  up  in  a  pot  10  inches  in  diameter  are  aptly 
portrayed  in  Fig.  4.  In  this  case  the  plants  must 
be  adjusted  most  carefully  and  equidistant 
before  the  compost  is  filled  in  and  made  firm. 
For  Chrysanthemums  of  a  decorative  nature  this 
method  of  potting  is  invaluable.  Stand  the  plants 
pot  to  pot  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  first  giving 
them  a  good  watering  with  a  rosed  can.  Stake 
the  taller  plants  at  once  to  prevent  loss  by  winds 
and  storms.  D.  B.  C. 


CUTTING    BACK    FERNS. 

So  many  who  grow  Ferns  in  pots  mismanage 
them  by  allowing  them  to  become  dry  at  the 
root,  and  it  is  from  Ihis  that  nine  out  of  ten 
of  the  failures  arise.  When  this  occurs  they 
suffer  greatly  ;  some  kinds  never  regain  their 
leafage  and  become  an  eyesore.  Then  the  owner 
is  anxious  to  cut  them  over,  often  asking  someone 
or  writing  to  you,  Mr.  Editor.  I  am  frequently 
asked,  "  When  may  I  out  off  this  foliage  ? "  with- 
out knowing  the  kind  or  the  treatment  it  has 
had,  and  nothing  is  more  difficult  to  answer.  The 
best  reply  I  can  give  is.  Study  Nature ;  and  if  this 
is  done  much  light  is  obtained,  for  Nature  does 
not  allow  the  plants  to  become  dust  dry  when  in 
full  growth. 

Let  anyone  observe  how  Nature  manages  the 
hardy  kinds  in  their  natural  habitats.  When 
visiting  the  West  of  England,  where  many 
hardy  kinds  grow  abundantly,  I  have  often 
noticed  the  length  of  time  the  old  foliage  remained 
on  them.  Generally  by  the  time  the  young  growths 
are  developed  the  previous  year's  fronds  are 
dead  ;  in  fact,  these  often  die  ofl'  and  form  a 
protection  for  the  young  foliage.  In  pots  they 
need  studying  on  the  same  lines,  and  the  old 
leafage  maj'  be  removed  gradually  as  the  young 
fronds  are  just  appearing.  J.  Crohk. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Lawns. — The  grass  on  the  lawns  will  grow  very 
rapidly  now  after  the  rains.  As  a  rule,  the 
lawns  do  not  require  much  attention  at  this 
time  as  regards  frequent  mowing  ;  but  in  many 
instances  the  case  will  be  diflerent  during  the 
present  month,  owing  to  the  heavy  rains  which 
have  fallen  recently  in  some  parts  of  the 
country.  It  is  a  condition  which  is  infinitely 
better  than  one  where  the  hose-pipe  has  to  be 
used  constantly.  It  does  not  matter  how  well 
the  flowers  look  in  the  borders ;  if  the  lawn  is 
brown  or  left  in  an  untidy  state,  the  garden  as 
a  whole  will  not  present  a  good  appearance. 
There  is  one  hint  in  regard  to  the  mowing  of 
lawns  at  the  present  time  that  will  be  useful  to 
the  inexperienced  amateur,  and  this  is  to  avoid 
cutting  the  grass  quite  as  low  down  as  in  the 
months  of  May  and  June.  Even  half  an  inch 
higher  will  make  a  great  difference,  as  the  sur- 
face will  then  present  a  closer  and  more  velvety 
appearance,  especially  when  viewed  from  a  short 
distance.  If  cut  very  low  at  this  season  of  the 
year  the  old  stumps  of  grass  will  be  exposed, 
and  then  the  lawn  will  look  brown. 

Staking  Border  Plants. — Medium  and  tall 
growing  border  subjects  must  now  be  supported 
with  neat  stakes.  The  latter  look  best  if 
painted  with  two  coats  of  green  paint.  If  time 
does  not  allow  of  two  paintings,  one,  at  least, 
should  be  given,  as  light-coloured  stakes  do  not 
present  a  nice  appearance  in  a  plant  border.  It 
will  not  be  necessary  to  use  very  long  stakes 
even  tor  the  tall-growing  plants.  The  spike  and 
flower  portion  does  not  require  any  support 
except     in     certain     instances,    such    as    \\hen 


Gladioli  are  being  staked,  so  that  plants  growing 
3  feet  high,  including  I  foot  of  flower-spike,  will 
only  need  stakes  3  feet  long,  which  must  be 
driven  into  the  border  soil  1  foot  deep,  thus 
leaving  2  feet  above  the  soil.  The  cultivator 
must  not  draw  together  a  number  of  the  stems 
of  the  plants  and  their  leaves  and  then  tie  them 
all  bundle  fashion  to  a  single  stake.  This  would 
be  the  wrong  way.  The  right  way  is  to  give 
the  necessary  support  without  altering  the 
natural  form  of  the  plant,  so  that  a  few  extra 
stakes  may  be  used  with  great  advantage,  yet 
by  judiciously  tying  certain  outside  branches 
with  soft  matting  to  some  of  the  inside  stems 
when  dealing  with  clumps  the  true  habit  of  the 
plants  may  be  retained. 

Propagating  Pinks.— It  is  not  too  late  to 
increase  the  stock  of  Pinks  by  putting  in  some 
cuttings  in  a  prepared  border.  I  like  to  get  at 
this  work  before  all  the  flowers  have  faded  on 
the  parent  plants  ;  but  in  many  cases  amateurs 
do  not  like  to  meddle  with  their  pets  until  all 
the  flowers  have  faded.  To  be  successful  the 
cultivator  must  be  sure  he  does  not  allow  the 
cuttings  or  "pipings"  to  get  dry  after  they 
have  been  severed  from  the  old  plants.  The 
basal  Fhoots  which  have  not  borne  flowers 
make  the  best  cuttings.  They  must  be  removed 
from  the  old  stem  with  a  small  portion,  or  heel, 
of  wood  attached,  and  this  can  be  easily  done 
by  simply  pressing  down  the  cutting  with  the 
thumb  and  forefinger  of  one  hand.  Then 
remove  two  or  three  of  the  lowest  leaves  from 
the  cutting,  make  the  heel  portion  smooth  with 
the  aid  of  a  very  sharp  knife,  and  also  make  a 
slit  upwards  about  half  an  inch  long  in  the 
centre  of  the  stem,  as  by  so  doing  the  cutting 
will  possess  a  larger  rooting  surface.  In  thu 
meantime  prepare  a  border  on  the  north  side  ot 
a  wall  by  digging  the  soil  and  mixing  with  it 
some  coarse  sand  and  leaf-soil,  or  well-decayed 
manure  if  it  be  of  a  clayey,  retentive  nature. 
Directly  the  cuttings  are  taken  off  the  old 
plants  they  must  be  placed  in  water.  After 
they  are  prepared,  replace  them  in  the  water 
until  all  are  inserted.  The  border  soil  must  be 
made  firm  and  the  cuttings  inserted  in  it  in  rows 
9  inches  apart  and  -1  inches  asunder  in  the  rows. 
Sand  must  be  put  around  the  base  of  each 
cutting.  Give  water  through  a  fine-rosed 
watering-can  forthwith.  Avon. 


4,  —  THREE  DECORATIVE  0HRTSANTHEMDM3 
PLACED  IN  A  lO-INCH  POT  TO  FORM  A 
LARGE,    BUSHT   SPECIMlsN. 


330 


THE    GARDEN. 


|JuLY  3,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


M 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Department. 
ELONS. — Plants  growing  in  frames 
and  whiok  have  extended  their 
growths  to  within  a  few  inches 
of  the  sides  should  be  stopped  to 
encourage  the  lateral  shoots  to 
throw  out  fruits.  Pinch  the  fruit- 
bearing  shoots  one  joint  above  the  blooms, 
fertilise  the  flowers  in  dry  weather,  and  if  more 
set  than  will  be  required  for  the  crop,  out  them 
off  early.  Keep  the  roots  well  supplied  with 
moisture  and  close  the  lights  early  in  the 
afternoon.  Expose  all  ripening  fruits  well  to  the 
sun  to  assist  both  the  colour  and  flavour,  and 
apply  air  more  freely.  Young  plants  raised 
from  seed  sown  three  weeks  ago  for  the  supply 
of  fruits  in  September  and  October  should  be 
planted  at  once.  If  the  houses  are  in  readiness, 
plant  on  mounds,  and  let  the  soil  be  rather 
heavy  and  firm.  After  the  plants  have  been  put 
out,  shade  for  a  few  days  during  bright  weather, 
water  to  settle  the  soil  and  syringe  overhead 
twice  daily.  Do  not  ventilate  too  freely  until 
the  roots  have  taken  to  the  new  soil,  and  be 
mindful  not  to  allow  the  water  to  settle  too  near 
the  stems. 

Strawberries  for  Forcing. — Almost  as  soon  as 
the  last  batch  of  plants  have  been  cleared  of 
their  crops  it  is  time  to  commence  preparations 
for  the  next  spring  supply.  Some  capital  plants 
may  be  reared,  both  in  their  fruiting  and  in 
.3-ineh  pats,  to  be  potted  a  month  hence.  Select 
strong  runners.  If  to  be  pegged  on  the  soil  in 
the  fruiting  pots  (6  inch),  see  that  the  drainage 
is  good  and  the  soil  sweet,  moderately  rich  and 
firmly  pressed.  Strawberries  like  a  firm  soil, 
which  enables  them  to  produee  stout,  well- 
developed  crowns,  and  plenty  of  light  and  air 
must  circulate  freely  among  the  plants  at  all 
times.  Royal  Sovereign  is  one  of  the  best  for 
forcing,  and  like  many  other  plants  a  change  of 
stock  is  sometimes  necessary. 

Kitchen  Garden. 
Cucumbers. — A  fresh  batch  of  young  plants 
should  now  be  reared  for  later  supplies.  Sow 
medium-sized  productive  varieties  for  late  use 
and  winter  work,  and  crop  very  lightly  till  the 
plants  have  gained  ample  strength. 

Tomatoes.  —  These  should  be  bearing  very 
freely,  and  to  encourage  their  productiveness 
feed  liberally  with  liquid  manure.  Keep  the 
side  shoots  removed  and  cut  the  fruits  as  soon 
as  they  are  ready,  so  as  to  give  the  later  ones  a 
better  chance  to  develop.  Another  lot  of  plants 
may  now  be  raised  to  produee  fruits  late  in  the 
season.  Carter's  Sunrise,  Lye's  Favourite  and 
Chemin  Rouge  are  reliable  varieties,  and  will 
yield  good  crops  of  serviceable-sized  fruits. 
Plants  under  Glass. 
Decorative  Plants. — In  most  gardens  there  is  a 
constant  demand  for  plants  for  house  decoration, 
and  to  meet  the  requirements  propagating  must 
never  be  overlooked.  At  the  present  time  a 
great  deal  of  anxiety  may  be  averted  at  a  later 
period  by  looking  well  ahead  and  raising  a 
number  of  the  most  useful  plants  for  the  different 
purposes,  so  as  to  get  them  well  established  by 
the  end  of  the  season. 

Balsams. — Keep  these  growing  freely  in  cold 
frames.     Lightly  damp  the  plants  overhead  once 
or  twice  daily,  and  remove  all  the  flowers  as  fast 
as  they  appear  till  the  plants  have  attained  a 
good    size.     The  lower    side    growths    may    be 
trained  in  an  outward  direction,  and  if  the  roots 
are  liberally  supplied    with   water    and   liquid 
manure  some  capital  plants  will  be  the  result. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Bamel. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Ho  uses. 
Melons. — The  bright,  warm  weather  of  late  has 
favoured  the  growth  of  these,  and  ripe  fruits  of 
excellent  quality  are  now  plentiful.  To  prolong 
the  supply  from  a  given  house,  some  of  the 
fruits  removed  from  the  plants  as  soon  as  the 
first  traces  of  colour  are  observable  and  placed 
in  a  cool  room  will  effect  this  end,  and  the 
difference  in  flavour  to  those  allowed  to  finish  in 
the  usual  way  will  be  scarcely  perceptible. 
Successional  crops  can  now  be  grown  strongly, 
as  moisture  can  be  freely  used  under  the  influence 
of  bright  sunlight.  Pinch  out  lateral  growths 
to  prevent  overcrowding,  but  preserve  the  main 
leaves  and  keep  these  free  from  insects  by  the 
usual  methods.  Guard  against  dryness  at  the 
roots,  and  more  particularly  in  supplying  water 
should  this  inadvertently  occur,  or  cracking  of 
the  fruits  is  almost  certain  to  follow. 

Oucvmibers.  —  Any  plants  that  have  been 
bearing  for  some  time  may  have  liberal  supplies 
of  manure-water  until  the  frame-grown  fruits 
are  ready,  when  they  may  be  removed  and  the 
house  again  prepared  for  autumn  and  winter 
plants,  seeds  of  which  may  be  sown  very  shortly. 

Vineries.  —  Madresfield  Court  and  Foster's 
Seedling  Grapes  are  very  liable  to  cracking  of 
the  berries  as  ripening  commences  ;  a  warm  and 
moderately  dry  atmosphere  maintained  by  slight 
heat  in  the  pipes  and  a  little  air  on  the  house  at 
all  times  are  the  most  likely  preventives  of  this 
evil. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines. — As  the  earlier  trees 
are  cleared  of  fruit,  all  superabundant  shoots  may 
be  out  away  and  the  remaining  foliage  be  well 
washed — if  fairly  clean,  with  clear  water  ;  but  if 
insect  pests  have  obtained  a  footing,  with  some 
approved  insecticide  added — afterwards  keeping 
the  house  cool,  or,  if  possible,  remove  the  roof- 
lights  altogether  when  the  foliage  becomes 
sufiieiently  matured  to  withstand  this  course 
without  risk  of  injury. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Strawberries. — Where  very  early  forced  fruits 
are  in  request,  runners  should  be  layered  into 
small  pots  filled  with  good  loam  as  soon  as 
possible.  Plantations  made  last  autumn  for 
the  purpose  of  supplying  runners  for  layering 
are  best,  but  failing  these  a  row  or  two  bearing 
fruit  may  be  reserved  from  much  treading 
in  the  process  of  gathering  the  crop.  If  the  pots 
can  be  plunged  to  the  rims  or  have  loose  litter 
placed  around  them,  time  and  labour  in  watering 
will  be  saved. 

Raspberries.  —  Superfluous  sucker  growths 
should  be  wrenched  off  the  plants  in  good  time, 
thus  giving  greater  advantages  by  way  of  light 
and  air  to  those  left,  which  will  form  the  fruiting 
canes  for  next  year.  Weed  and  stir  the  surface 
soil,  and  if  a  mixture  of  stable  litter,  leaves  or 
lawn  mowings  is  at  hand  its  use  as  a  mulching 
would  be  very  beneficial.  Drought  is  fatal  to 
this  crop,  and  copious  supplies  of  water  must, 
where  possible,  be  given. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Carrots. — Young,  tender  roots  of  these  are 
always  appreciated,  and  sowings  made  now  of 
Intermediate  or  Nantes  types  will  come  in  useful 
in  autumn.  Continue  to  syringe  early  sowings 
with  paraffin  liquid — loz.  to  the  gallon  of  water 
applied  often  is  better  than  stronger  doses, 
which  might  injure  the  delicate  foliage  and  yet 
be  no  more  effective  against  the  fly. 

Onions  may  have  similar  treatment  and  ooea- 
sionally  be  given  slight  dressings  of  soot  or 
nitrate  of  soda  as  a  stimulant,  this,  in  the  absence 
of  rain,  to  be  well  watered  in.  Bulbs  for  exhibition 
enlarge  more  quickly  when  some  form  of  mulch- 
ing is  used,  the  same  being  removed  early  in 
August  to  facilitate  the  ripening  process. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

Qalloway  House,  Oarlieston,  Wigtownshire 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Delphinium  Moerheimi.  —  A  pretty  white- 
flowered  variety  of  free  branching  habit.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  obtained  from  crossing  D. 
Belladonna  and  D.  chinense  album,  and  possesses 
the  continuous  flowering  cbaraoter  of  the  first 
named.     Award  of  merit. 

Aster  Mesa  grandiflora. — The  specific  name 
given  is  new  to  us,  and  we  can  only  say  that  it  has 
reference  to  a  singularly  pretty  and  beautiful  plant 
of  some  2  feet  high,  and  flower-heads  of  which 
the  ray  florets  are  pale  blue,  very  numerous  and 
almost  thread-like  in  eharaoter.  A  distinct  and 
graceful  plant.  Award  of  merit.  Both  the 
above  were  exhibited  by  Messrs.  William  Cutbush 
and  Sons,  Highgate. 

Carnation  Her  Majesty. — A  yellow  ground 
variety  of  much  excellence,  the  heavy  purple  edge 
and  firm  petal  substance  being  very  pronounced. 
From  Mr.  C.  Bliek,  Warren  Nursery,  Hayes, 
Kent.     Award  of  merit. 

PiP.onia  (single)  Leonora. — Colour  crimson  lake, 
and  contrasting  well  with  the  golden  anthers  in 
the  centre.  A  very  handsome  flower.  Award  of 
merit. 

Pteonia  i^lueen  of  Singles.  — The  colour  of  this 
is  satiny  white,  the  yellow  tuft  of  anthers  being 
very  effective.  Award  of  merit.  Both  were 
shown  by  Mr.  Charles  Turner,  Slough. 

Campanula  phyctidocaly.v.  —  A  pretty  deep 
blue  Bellflower,  the  base  of  the  corolla  internally 
being  of  a  dark  purple.  From  Sir  Trevor 
Lawrence,  Bart. ,  Dorking.     Award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Stirling  Stent.  — A  very  striking 
variety  of  carmine-scarlet  hue.  From  Mr.  J. 
Agate,  Havant,  Hants.     Award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Blanche  Stevens  — A  very  large  and 
handsome  pure  white  variety,  probably  the 
largest  yet  seen,  and  despite  the  fact  that  the 
flowers  are  placed  at  somewhat  long  intervals 
on  the  stem,  we  think  it  marks  an  advance 
in  white-flowered  sorts.  In  shape  the  flowers 
resemble  Dorothy  Eokford.  From  H.  J.  Jones, 
Limited,  Lewisham,  S.  E.     Award  of  merit. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


WE  invite  our  recdera  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit 
tree,  shrub,  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


A  Black-leaved  Bedding  Pelargonium. 

Mr.  Alva  .J.  Hall,  12,  Parliament  Street, 
Harrogate,  sends  us  a  plant  of  a  black-leaved 
bedding  Pelargonium,  which  is  evidently  a  sport 
from  the  well-known  West  Brighton  Gem.  It 
appears  to  be  a  vigorous  variety,  and  the  bright 
scarlet  flowers  contrast  pleasantly  with  the 
nearly  black  foliage.  It  is  certainly  a  unique 
novelty. 

A  New  Pink. 
Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.  of  Bush  Hill 
Park,  Enfield,  send  us  flowers  of  a  new  Pink, 
which  they  call  Gloriosa.  This  is  a  very  large- 
flowered  variety  and  is  of  vigorous  habit,  the 
blossoms  being  of  rose-mauve  colour  and  very 
highly  perfumed. 


Flowers   from    Ireland. 
Mr.  H.   Armytage  Moore,   Rowallane,  Saint- 
field,   County   Down,   sends   us    an    interesting 
collection   of    flowers,   among    which    we    were 


July  3,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEK 


331 


pleased  to  see  the  pretty  Triouspidaria  lanoeolata. 
He  writes :  "  I  am  sending  for  your  table  flowers  of 
Triouspidaria  lanoeolata,  Philadelphus  Delavayi, 
Eriophyllum  ofespitosum,  Inula  glandulosa  varia- 
bilis and  Primula  oookburniana.  Triouspidaria 
lanoeolata  flowers  with  great  freedom  here,  and 
is  certainly  the  most  conspicuous  shrub  in  bloom 
with  me  just  now.  Philadelphus  Delavayi  strikes 
me  as  a  shrub  of  much  merit,  and  must  surely 
take  a  high  place  among  hard-wooded  June- 
flowering  plants.  Eriophyllum  oaespitosum  seems 
an  admirable  plant  for  grouping  in  the  rook 
garden.  Light  and  graceful  in  growth,  the  clear 
yellow  flowers  and  grey  foliage  form  a  pleasant 
contrast.  Inula  glandulosa  variabilis  is  an 
admirable  border  plant,  and  its  orange-coloured 
flowers  stand  out  conspicuously  anywheie.  The 
spikes  of  Primula  oookburniana  may  interest  you 
as  having  been  out  from  plants  whioh  also 
flowered  last  year,  showing  that  the  biennial 
character  of  this  remarkable  species  is  not  in- 
variable. Anyone  who  will  group  this  Primrose 
boldly  under  Solomon's  Seal  will  have  little  to 
regret  as  regards  a  happy  contrast. " 

Flowers  from  Dtjns. 
Dr.  Mo  Watt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B.,  sends 
us  a  remarkable  lot  of  flowers,  many  of  which  are 
rarely  met  with  in  private  gardens.  He  writes  : 
"  I  am  sending  you  a  box  of  flowers  whioh  I  hope 
you  will  find  interesting.  Among  them  are 
Pentstemon  glaueus,  Anemone  polyanthiflora. 
Calceolaria  polyrhiza,  Lithospermum  prostratum, 
L.  intermedium,  L.  Gastonii,  Erinus  alpinus 
(mauve  and  white  varieties),  Smilaoina,  Arenaria 
montana,  Achillea  rupestris,  Chrysobaotron 
Hookeri,  Salix  lanata,  Podophyllum  peltata, 
Dianthus  alpinus,  Ajuga  orientalis.  Primula 
Parryii,  Mimulus  radioans,  a  plant  rarely  seen, 
although  most  beautiful,  flowers  white  with 
violet  lip  ;  Veronica  Stuartii,  Phlox  Laphamii, 
Delphinium  nudioaule,  D.  cashmirianum,  D. 
album,  Incarvillea  Delavayii,  Asphodeline  lutea, 
Asphodelus  albus  ramosus,  Anthericum  Liliago, 
A.  plumosum,  some  good  varieties  of  perennial 
Poppies,  several  sorts  of  Weigelas  (Diervillas), 
including  the  white  ;  Laburnum  Adamii,  Geums, 
Alliums  of  several  species.  Geraniums  and  a 
number  of  other  things.  Allium  rosenbaohianum 
has  a  good  long  stem." 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
QueBtlonB  and  AnrnvrePB.— The  Editor  intendi 
to  make  Ihb  Gakdsh  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
aanstance,  tto  matter  what  the  bramsh  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  AU  communioa- 
tioTW  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  BSHOB  of  THE 
Oabser,  iO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  en  business  should  be  sent  to  the  FroiilBHEB. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Seneclo  and  Rose  leaves  diseased 

[F.  Lurani,  Italy). — Seneoio  puloher  is  attacked 
by  the  rust  fungus  (Coliosporium  seneoionis). 
The  spores  germinate  on  other  plants  of  various 
species  of  Seneoio,  including  Cineraria,  but  later 
on  in  the  year  another  form  of  spore  is  produced 
that  attacks  species  of  Pinus,  mainly  P.  sylvestris, 
and  forms  in  the  spring  little  blisters  upon  the 
leaves.  The  fungus  is  very  abundant  upon 
Pines  and  upon  Groundsel  (Seneoio  vulgaris). 
Probably  spraying  the  Seneoio  puloher  with  a 
rose-red  solution  of  potassium  permanganate 
jjFouJd  cheo^   the  .spread  .of  tlje   .disease.     The 


Rose  leaves  are  attacked  by  the  rust  fungus 
(Phragmidium  subcortioatum).  The  present 
spores  geminate  on  other  Rose  leaves,  &o.,  and 
later  darker  spores  are  formed  in  black  patches 
on  the  leaves,  by  means  of  whioh  the  winter  is 
passed  over.  Much  may  be  done  to  check  the 
spread  of  the  disease  by  ooUocting  and  destroy- 
ing the  attacked  leaves  in  the  aut«mn. 

Llllum  candldum  fop  inspection 

(Alan). — The  leaves  are  affectsed  with  the  fungoid 
disease  so  disfiguring  to  this  fine  garden  plant, 
and  for  whioh  no  real  remedy  exists.  The 
treating  of  the  bulbs  with  sulphur  is  calculated 
to  have  a  paralysing  effect  upon  the  plant's 
growth,  and  may  do  harm  rather  than  good. 
The  only  likely  thing  to  check  the  development 
and  spread  of  the  disease  is  to  early  spray  the 
stems  and  leaves  with  sulphide  of  potassium, 
Joz.  to  two  gallons  of  soft  water,  once  a  fortnight, 
taking  care  to  wet  the  under-sides  of  the  leaves. 
November  is  much  too  late  to  plant  this  nearly 
evergreen  species,  and  the  middle  of  August 
would  have  been  much  better.  All  you  can  at 
present  do  is  to  let  them  alone,  and  gather  and 
burn  the  decaying  parts.  We  have  found 
planting  a  thin  carpet  of  London  Pride  over  the 
bulbs  a  good  plan,  and  with  a  poor  soil  to  grow 
in  the  disease  is  by  no  means  so  bad  as  was  the 
case  formerly.  The  fact  that  the  other  species 
named  has  been  similarly  treated  and  is  free  from 
disease  proves  nothing  beyond  the  well-known 
fact  that  certain  plants,  like  individuals,  are  more 
prone  to  disease  than  others. 

Lupine  aovrers  falling  (E.  T.,  Devon).— It 
would  appear  that  the  Lupines  are  planted  in  too  dry  a 
position,  thus  causing  the  flowers  to  fall  off,  but  it  is 
impossible  to  say  definitely  without  seeing  the  plants.  A 
good  mulching  just  on  coming  into  flower  might  help 
them. 

Plant  for  name  and  treatment  (H.  C.).— 
The  name  of  your  plant  is  Dicentra  spectabilis,  most 
frequently  found  in  catalogues  as  Bielytra  spectabilis. 
The  plant  may  be  increased  by  division  of  the  rootstock 
in  early  spring,  just  prior  to  the  new  growth  appearing ;  by 
cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  torn  or  cut  off  the  rootstoclc, 
with  a  piece  of  old  wood  attached  ;  iad  by  root-cuttings 
inserted  in  pots  in  a  cool  greenhoua»  from  November  to 
January,  both  inclusive.  Later  on  we  may  give  a  short 
article  dealing  with  this  latter  mettoiod  of  increasing  plants, 
which  may  be  helpful  to  you. 


THE    GREENHOUSB. 

Camellias    unsatlsfactopy    (M. 

Brown). — It  is,  of  course,  impossible  to  indicate 
with  any  degree  of  confidence  the  reason  of  the 
Camellias  behaving  in  suoh  an  unsatisfactory 
way,  but  we  may  point  out  that  a  frequent  cause 
of  the  buds  dropping  is  dryness  at  the  roots. 
This  is  especially  the  case  with  plants  grown  in 
tubs,  for  the  ball  of  earth  is  apt  to  get  dry  in  the 
centre,  and  it  is  then  diflfioult  to  get  it  thoroughly 
saturated.  With  regard  to  your  queries  it 
would,  of  course,  have  been  better  had  the  tubs 
been  slightly  raised  from  the  floor  to  ensure 
thorough  drainage.  Next,  the  journey  of 
fourteen  miles  on  a  wet  day  is  not  at  all  likely  to 
upset  them  in  any  way.  They  should  be  kept  in 
the  conservatory  and  freely  syringed  in  order  to 
ensure  good  growth,  and  when  the  new  shoots 
begin  to  get  firm,  the  plants  may  be  stood  out  of 
doors  or  allowed  to  remain  in  the  conservatory, 
whichever  you  prefer.  In  either  case  they  must 
remain  in  the  tubs. 

Gloxinias  and  mealy  Yiug  (Constant 

Reader).  —  The  Gloxinia  sent  must  have  been 
close  to  some  badly  infested  plant,  for  on  it  we 
found  mealy  bug,  scale,  thrips  and  traces  of  that 
little  insect  popularly  termed  Begonia  mite, 
which  gives  much  trouble  in  the  case  of  many 
plants.  If  all  your  plants  are  like  this,  the  only 
thing  you  can  do  is  to  vaporise  frequently  with 
one  of  the  many  preparations  of  nicotine  now  on 
the  market.  Even  then  you  are  not  likely  to 
meet  with  any  great  measure  of  success  this 
season,  but  you  may  obtain  good  tubers  for 
another  year.  We  should  advise  you  to  free  the 
plants  from  insect  pests  as  thoroughly  as 
possible,    keep    them   watered    and    encourage 


growth.  Then  by  the  end  of  August  they  will 
in  all  probability  begin  to  die  down,  when  water 
must  be  lessened,  and  when  totally  dormant  the 
plants  may  be  turned  out  of  their  pots  and  the 
tubers  shaken  clear  of  the  soil.  Then  these 
tubers  may  for  the  winter  be  stored  in  a  shallow 
box  of  sand  in  the  same  way  as  Begonias  are 
often  treated.  Throughout  the  winter  they 
may  be  kept  in  a  structure  the  temperature  of 
which  is  from  50°  to  55°.  If  the  sand  gets  very 
dry,  it  may  have  a  slight  sprinkling  of  water 
occasionally.  Then  about  the  end  of  February 
the  tubers  may  be  potted  in  a  mixture  of  loam, 
leaf-mould  and  sand.  The  better  plan  is  to  first 
pot  the  tubers  into  small  pots,  say,  .3^  inches  to 
4  inches  in  diameter,  and  shift  them  into  their 
flowering  pots  later  on.  In  their  earlier  stages 
a  few  insects  will  cripple  the  plants  for  the 
entire  season  ;  hence  the  necessity  for  vaporising 
at  the  least  sign  of  any  pests. 

Chrysanthemum  buds(T.  IF.  TT.).— Buds  of  the 
two  sorts  mentioned  in  your  letter  are  evolving  at  a  very 
suitable  period.  Take  up  from  this  point  the  required 
number  of  shoots  and  retain  the  next  series  of  buds  when 
they  are  sufficiently  developed.  We  advise  you  to  pinch  out 
the  points  of  your  Chrysanthemum  shoots  in  every  case 
where  the  buds  have  not  yet  evolved,  retaining  any  buds 
that  subsequently  develop  in  August.  By  adopting  these 
measures  you  should  produce  large  and  handsome  blooms 
ultimately. 

Foliage  plant  fop  amateur's  gpeenhuuse 

(Rose). — A  good  specimen  of  Aspidistra  lurida  variegata  is 
always  effective,  and  so  is  a  thriving  plant  of  the  Norfolk 
Island  Pine  (Araucaria  excelsa).  You  have  also  the  choice 
of  Cordyline  (Dracaina)  australis  and  Kentia  belmoreana 
or  fosteriana.  These  are  so  dissimilar  that  it  is  impossible 
to  say  which  is  the  best  of  them,  as  so  much  depends 
upon  individual  fancy.  All  these  could  be  obtained  from 
any  plant  nursery,  and  your  better  plan  will  be  to  visit  a 
local  nurseryman  and  make  your  own  choice. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 


Defopmed  Rose  bloom  (Miss  H.  B.). 

This  malformation  is  usually  the  result  of 
spring  frosts  or  very  oold  weather.  Probably 
the  plant  was  not  pruned  sufficiently.  It  is 
always  rather  against  one's  inclination  to  prune 
the  Roses  beyond  the  started  growths,  but  if 
this  is  not  done  these  early  shoots  get  overtaken 
by  the  frosts,  and  the  embryo  flower-buds  are 
consequently  injured.  Sometimes  excess  of 
manure  in  the  soil  will  cause  the  malformation. 
It  would  certainly  be  advisable  to  remove  all  the 
deformed  buds  at  once,  cutting  the  shoot  to  the 
first  plump-looking  eye  or  bud  just  beneath  the 
bloom  -  stalk.  We  knew  of  an  instance  last 
season,  in  your  county,  where  a  lady  had  a 
quantity  of  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison  Roses  that 
always  had  their  first  blooms  deformed,  but  they 
were  removed  before  developing,  and  the  seoond 
crop  was  perfect.  We  think  the  reason  that 
the  Roses  are  not  so  perfect  in  your  county  as 
in  the  Eastern  Counties  is  owing  to  the  very 
rapid  growth  they  make.  There  seems  a  want 
of  solidity  in  the  wood.  Probably  a  good  dressing 
of  bone-meal  in  the  autumn  would  correct  this 
to  some  extent. 

Rose  beetles  (D.  Morris).  —  These  very  seldom 
trouble  the  Rose-grower  after  June  is  out.  We  recommend 
you  to  try  Kilogrub  in  the  soil.  We  think  this  would  be 
exceedingly  distasteful  to  the  beetles. 

Mlldevr  on  pot  Roses  (Roses,  WaUall).~k  very 
good  and  cheap  remedy  for  mildew  is  to  syringe  the 
plants  with  a  solution  of  Jeyes's  Cyllin  Soft  Soap.  Take 
lib.  of  the  soap  and  boil  it  with  twice  the  quantity  of 
water,  stirring  till  it  is  dissolved.  This  gives  a  syrupy 
liquid  which  will  mix  at  once  with  cold  water.  Take 
then  3oz.  of  this  liquid  to  one  gallon  of  water  and  well 
syringe  the  plants  with  it,  repeating  at  intervals  of  a 
few  days. 

Rose  for  south  -n^all  (Adzey—Vfe  fear  you  would 
have  the  same  trouble  as  regards  mildew  with  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux  as  you  have  had  with  Mme.  B^rard.  A  variety 
that  would  be  much  better  for  the  position  would  be 
Mme.  Alfred  Carrifere.  This  is  a  lovely  Rose,  free  and 
hardy.  As  the  border  is  somewhat  dry,  you  must 
take  the  precaution  to  well  water  the  Rose  twice  a  week 
during  May  and  June ;  in  fact,  throughout  the  summer  it 
would  be  well  to  do  so.  Some  of  the  wichuraiana  Roses 
are  fine  for  walls  such  as  yours.  Lady  Gay,  Hiawatha  or 
Alberic  Barbier  would  make  a  good  show.  By  planting 
the  last  named  and  the  first  you  would  have  an  early  and 
a  late  flowering  variety.  When  growths  become  too 
dense  they  can  always  be  reduced,  so  that  each  Rose  is 
not  overcrowded  by  the  other. 


332 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[July  3,  1909. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Vine  leaf  injured  {Mrs.  T.  L.).—We 

think  your  young  Vine  has  suffered  injury  from 
the  cheek  received  in  being  planted  into  the 
soil  of  the  cold  outside  border.  Evidently  it 
has  not  yet  formed  new  roots  by  which  it  can 
draw  sustenance  from  the  border.  When  it 
does  do  so — and  thatshould  be  soon — its  condition 
will  probably  improve.  We  have  known  results 
like  this  to  follow  the  wrong  method  of  planting 
a  Vine.  We  presume  your  Vine  had  not  started 
into  growth  at  the  time  it  was  planted,  and  also 
that  it  had  previously  been  grown  in  a  pot.  The 
proper  way  is  to  shake  away  the  soil  from  the 
roots  and  thoroughly  disentangle  them,  laying 
them  out  in  the  border  their  whole  length  as 
near  as  possible,  covering  each  root  carefully 
with  new  turf  to  the  depth  of  5  inches,  and 
pressing  it  down  firmly. 

Ooosebeppy   bushes   unsatisfactopy 

{W,  H.  H.).—The  Gooseberry  bushes  have  been  attacked 
by  the  Gooseberry  red  spider.  When  the  attack  is  first 
seen,  and  this  may  be  very  early  in  the  year,  the 
bushes  should  be  sprayed  with  potassium  sulphide 
solution  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to  two  gallons  of  water. 
The  mites  apparently  hide  in  the  earth  and  the  eggs  are 
very  ditticult  to  kill.  On  account  of  this  it  is  often  neces- 
sary to  spray  more  than  once. 

Apple,  Feap,  Plum  and  Cheppy  tpees 
gpo^rn  in  pots  falling-  to  set  (A.  a.).— In  the 
first  place,  we  agree  with  you  that  the  means  available 
for  ventilating  the  house  are  wholly  inadequate.  If  it  is 
at  all  practicable,  we  advise  you  to  double  your  present 
ventilating  power,  both  top  and  bottom.  Seeing  that  you 
have  practically  carried  out  the  system  of  growing  the 
above  trees  in  pots  which  Mr.  Hudson  has  carried  out 
successfully  for  so  many  years,  it  is  difficult  to  suggest  in 
what  particular  points  of  culture  you  have  failed.  There 
are  three  points  which  occur  to  us  as  being  more  or  less 
responsible  ;  the  first,  in  keeping  the  house  too  warm 
and  exciting  the  trees  into  growth  too  soon  when  first 
placed  under  glass.  Growers  are  inclined  to  forget  that, 
immediately  the  trees  are  taken  from  their  outdoor 
quarters  and  placed  under  glass,  the  temperature  to 
them  at  once  rises  from  b°  to  10*^  Fahr.  or  more,  even  if 
the  ventilators  are  left  fully  open  day  and  night,  and  com- 
mence at  once  to  atill  further  heighten  that  temperature 
by  reducing  the  ventilation,  especially  at  night.  We 
maintain  that  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  keep  the  trees 
as  cool  as  possible  for  the  first  fortnight  or  three  weeks  or 
until  slight  indications  of  growth  are  apparent.  You  say 
that  your  Peach  and  Fig  trees  in  pots  growing  in  a  house 
facing  south  always  bear  good  crops.  This  to  us  suggests 
the  thought  that  possibly  the  wood  and  fruit-buds  on  your 
trees  are  not  so  well  ripened  as  they  might  be,  seeing  that 
the  house  in  which  they  are  growing  faces  west.  We 
presume  that  you  disbud  and  pinch  back  the  young 
growths  freely  through  the  summer,  so  that  the  trees  are 
always  well  exposed  to  plenty  of  sunshine.  Another  point 
it  is  important  to  notice,  especially  in  the  case  of  Apples 
and  Pears  when  grown  in  pots,  is  not  to  keep  the  trees 
under  glass  too  long  in  late  summer  or  autumn.  As  soon 
as  the  fruit  is  fully  grown,  the  trees  should  be  taken  and 
their  pots  plunged  out  of  doors  in  the  sunniest  and 
warmest  spot  you  can  find.  By  doing  this  your  fruit  will 
be  far  more  brilliant  in  colour  and  also  the  wood  and 
fruit-buds  much  better  ripened  than  if  kept  later  under 
glass.  The  fruit,  of  course,  will  have  to  be  netted.  With 
Plums  and  Cherries  it  is  not  necessary  nor  desirable  to 
finish  the  ripening  of  these  out  of  doors,  but  the  sooner 
they  are  placed  out  of  doors  after  the  fruit  is  gathered 
the  better.  Mr.  Hudson  and  many  other  successful 
growers  of  fruit  trees  in  pots  enlist  the  services  of  a  hive 
of  bees  and  place  in  the  house  while  the  trees  are  in 
bloom,  with  most  beneficial  results  as  regards  the  setting 
of  the  fruit. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Aspidistra  leaves  splitting  (J.  J.,  Froitu').— 
Have  never  seen  it  happen  naturally  unless  exposed  to 
wind. 

HoviT  to  cook  edible-podded  Peas  {R.  A.  B.). 

The  pods  are  cooked  whole  and  must  not  be  allowed  to 
get  too  old.  To  obtain  the  best  results,  the  plants  should 
be  gone  over  every  other  day  and  the  pods  gathered. 
When  large  enough  for  use  they  can  be  broken  in  two 
readily.  There  should  be  no  skin  or  stringy  substance  ; 
even  at  a  very  early  stage  of  growth  the  seeds  are  very 
prominent.  They  should  be  boiled  slowly  and  some  sugar 
added  to  the  water.  We  have  also  seen  them  partially 
boiled  and  then  braised  in  butter  for  an  entree,  and  they 
are  delicious  as  a  dressed  vegetable  without  meat ; 
doubtless,  they  may  be  served  in  a  variety  of  ways. 

Names  of  plants.— Jfrs.  Batt.—l,  Aquilegia  glan- 
dulosa  ;  2,  Veronica  gentianoides  ;   3,  Polemonium  ciem- 

leum. G.  T.  SeivelL—'Pyras  Aria  latifolia  (White  Beam 

Tree). Miss  TTeite.— Viburnum  Lantana. A.  L.  Ford. 

— Saxifraga  Sibthorpii,  Prunus    spinosa    and    Cotyledon 

bracteata. 1'.  "Z.— Sedum  roseum. Captain  E.   F. 

OaA;?^*/.— Campanula  glomerata. Dorset.— \.  Lapagerla 

rosea  ;  2,  Tricuspidaria  lanceolata. F.  C— 1,  Corydalis  I 

lutea ;  2,  Antbericum  Liliago ;  3,  Inula  glandulosa ;   4,  | 


Campanula  glomerata;  5,  Lychnis  dioica  flore-pleno;  6, 
Erigeron  speciosus ;  7,  Inula  hirta ;  S,  Veronica  gen- 
tianoides ;  9,  Senecio  Doronicum  :  10,  Helianthemum 
vulgare  variety  ;  11,  Pulmonaria  saccharata  ;   12,  Lilium 

monadelphum  szovitzianum. W.  il.— Seedlings  of  the 

Oriental  Poppy  (Papaver  orientale). Frank   Barber.— 

We  believe  the  Rose  to  be  Charles  Duval,  one  of  the  Hybrid 
Chinese  section,  and  now  almost  extinct.— IT.  Banks. — 

Erigeron  philadelphicus  and   Iria  graminea. F.   H.— 

Beta  Bourgaei,  a  form  of  the  common  Beetroot. A.  <?.— 

1,  Antennaria  dioica  ;  2,  Habenaria  albida  ;  3,  Polygonum 

viviparum. Bell,    Bwjj/.  —  Hesperis   matronalis   flore- 

pleuo. Miss    Darbi/ski re. —Veronica   Teucrium    dubia 

(V.    rupestris), Penwarnc.  —  Bignonia   speciosa. 

E.  Jfa)/.— Saponaria  ocymoides  variety.  The  tubercles 
attached  to  the  roots  sent  are  believed  to  be  the  autumn 
form  of  the  cycle  to  which  Oak  Apples  belong  as  the 
summer  form.  They  will  prove  of  no  detriment  to  the 
leaf-soil.— Subsmftcr. — Rose  Gloire    de  Dijon.— —Barn 

7?0(,'A:s.— Kalmia    latifolia. Frank  S^oh^.— Hyoscyamus 

niger  (the  Henbane).  It  is  a  native  of  this  country  and  is 
usually  found  growing  in  waste  places. 


SOCIETIES. 


WINDSOR  AND  ETON  ROSE  SOCIETY. 
By  gracious  permission  of  His  Majesty  the  King,  this  society 
held  its  eighteenth  annual  show  on  the  26th  inst.  in  the 
beautiful  grounds  beneath  the  walls  of  Windsor  Castle, 
known  as  the  "Slopes."  The  weather  was  not  all  that 
could  be  desired,  and  although  it  was  fine  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  day,  rain  fell  towards  evening.  Not- 
withstanding this,  a  great  many  visitors  were  present,  the 
attendance  nearly  approaching  a  record.  The  quality  of 
the  exhibits  was  quite  up  to  the  usual  high  standard  for 
which  the  show  is  famed,  and  the  competition  was  very 
keen  throughout. 

The  class  for  the  King's  Challenge  Cup  (forty-eight 
distinct)  was  especially  well  contested,  no  less  than  eight 
exhibitors  competing.  This  coveted  award  was  won  by 
Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Colchester,  with  a  superb 
stand  of  flowers  remarkable  for  their  size,  colour  and 
freshness,  a  truly  excellent  lot.  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt, 
Marquise  Litta,  Bessie  Brown,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux, 
Lohengrin,  Rosomane  Gravereaux,  Mari^chal  Niel,  Mildred 
Grant  and  Helen  Guillot  were  some  of  the  most  notable. 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Colchester,  were  a  close 
second,  Messrs.  Alexander  Dickson  and  Sons  third,  and 
Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  fourth. 

In  Class  2,  for  eighteen  Teas  or  Noisettes,  Mr.  George 
Prince,  Longworth,  Berks,  was  well  to  the  front  with  a 
beautiful  stand  of  flowers,  among  which  were  Cleopatra, 
The  Bride,  Mar^chal  Niel,  Maman  Cochet,  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux,  Catherine  Mermet,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley,  Golden 
Gate  and  E.  V.  Hermanos  in  excellent  condition  ;  second, 
Mr.  Henry  Drew,  Longworth  ;  third,  Messrs,  B.  R.  Cant 
and  Sons. 

For  twelve  distinct  varieties,  three  blooms  of  each, 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons  led  with  excellent  blooms  of 
Mildred  Grant,  Richmond,  Dean  Hole,  Bessie  Srown,  J.  B 
Clark  and  H.  Armytage  Moore.  Mr.  Charles  Turner, 
Slough,  was  a  good  second,  and  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son, 
third. 

For  twelve  blooms  of  any  Hybrid  Perpetual  or  Hybrid 
Tea,  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  were  well  in  front  with 
superb  Dean  Hole ;  Messrs.  A.  Bide  and  Son,  Farnham, 
Surrey,  second,  with  (Jueen  of  Spain  ;  and  Mr.  Charles 
Turner,  third,  with  Mrs.  J.  Laing. 

In  Class  5,  for  twelve  blooms  of  any  Tea  or  Noisette,  Mr. 
George  Prince  led  with  a  beautiful  stand  of  Souvenir  de 
S.  A.  Prince  ;  Mr.  Henry  Drew,  second,  with  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux  ;  and  Mr.  Elisha  J.  Hicks,  third,  with  the  same 
variety. 

In  the  class  for  any  crimson,  twelve  blooms,  and  twelve 
blooms  of  any  white,  Messrs.  S.  Bide  and  Sons  were  well 
in  front  with  an  excellent  lot  of  J.  B.  Clark  and  Kaiserin 
A.  Victoria;  second,  Mr.  Henry  Drew;  third,  Messrs. 
Frank  Cant  and  Co. 

For  six  distinct  varieties,  five  blooms  of  each,  to  be 
shown  in  vases,  Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons  were  first 
with  Nita  Weldon,  Mildred  Grant  and  Lady  Helen  Vincent 
in  excellent  condition.  Mr.  Charles  Turner  was  second 
and  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  third. 

Amateurs'  Classes. 

For  twenty-four  blooms,  distinct,  the  Windsor  Cup  was 
won  by  Mr.  E.  J.  Holland  with  a  splendid  stand  of  blooms. 
Mildred  Grant,  Florence  Pemberton,  William  Shean, 
Mrs.  David  McKee,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Bessie  Brown  and 
Mme.  Melaine  Soupert  were  superb.  Second  prize  went 
to  Mr.  Conway  Jones,  and  the  third  to  the  Rev.  T.  G. 
Henslow.  Mr.  Henslow  had  the  best  Rose  in  the  show  in 
this  stand,  a  fine  flower  of  Mar^chal  Niel. 

For  twelve  distinct  Teas  or  Noisettes,  Mr.  J.  B. 
Fortescue  was  first  with  splendid  examples  of  Mrs.  E. 
Mawley,  Medea,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  and  Comtesse  de 
Nadaillac.  Mr.  Conway  Jones  was  second  and  the  third 
prize  went  to  the  Rev.  T.  G.  Henslow. 

For  six  distinct,  three  blooms  of  each,  Mr.  E.  J.  Holland 
was  easily  first  with  excellent  William  Shean,  Mrs.  W.  J. 
Grant,  Mildred  Grant  and  Bessie  Brown  ;  second,  Mr. 
G.  A.  Hammond  ;  and  third,  Mr.  Conway  Jones. 

For  three  distinct,  five  blooms  of  each,  to  be  shown  in 
vases,  Mr.  G.  A.  Hammond  was  a  good  first,  Mr.  Conway 
Jones  second  and  Lady  Wilmot  third. 

Twelve  bunches  of  decorative,  distinct:  Here  Mr. 
Conway  Jones  was  leading  with  a  splendid  exhibit,  among 
which  were  Claire  Jacquier,  Papillon,  Aglaia,  W.  H. 
Richardson,  Isabella  Sprunt  and  Gustave  Kee:i8  in  good 


form.  Second  prize  went  to  Mr.  J.  Curnock  Dawley  and 
third  to  Mr.  Marcus  Dimsdale. 

For  eighteen  blooms,  distinct,  Mr.  J.  B.  Fortescue  was 
easily  first  with  splendid  blooms.  Mr.  R,  E.  West  was 
second  and  Mr.  Colin  Romaine  third. 

For  twelve  blooms,  distinct,  Dr.  Lamplough  was  a  good 
first  and  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Shackle  second. 

In  a  similar  class,  open  to  amateurs  growing  leas  than 
1,000  plants,  including  Teas  and  Noisettes,  Mr.  Lewis  J. 
Pawle,  Harrow,  was  well  to  the  front  with  splendid 
examples  of  Mildred  Grant,  Bessie  Brown,  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux,  W.  J.  Grant  and  William  Shean.  Second  prize 
was  won  by  Mr.  A.  C.  Twince  and  third  by  Dr.  Lamplough. 

For  the  Islet  Challenge  Cup,  for  local  exhibitors  only, 
twenty-four  blooms,  distinct,  Mr.  J.  B.  Fortescue  was 
first  with  a  beautiful  lot  of  even,  fresh  flowers.  Mrs. 
Theodore  Roosevelt,  J.  B.  Clark,  Mrs.  Harold  Brockle- 
bank,  William  Shean  and  Bessie  Brown  were  in  excellent 
form.    Second,  Mr.  Colin  Romaine, 

For  Mrs.  Bevil  Fortescue's  challenge  cup,  eighteen 
blooms,  Teas  or  Hybrid  Teas,  distinct,  the  Rev.  J.  B. 
Shackle  was  first,  Mr.  Ernest  G.  Mocatta  second  and  Mr. 
E.  F.  Brown  third. 

For  nine  Teas  or  Noisettes,  distinct,  the  Rev.  J.  B. 
Shackle  was  again  to  the  fore,  Miss  Langworthy  and  Mr. 
E.  F.  Brown  following  in  the  order  named. 

For  six  single  blooms  of  any  Hybrid  Perpetual  or 
Hybrid  Teas,  Mr.  E.  F.  Brown  was  first  with  splendid 
examples  of  Mildred  Grant;  Mr.  E.  G.  Mocatta  was 
second  with  Bessie  Brown  and  Mr.  Colin  Romaine  third. 

In  the  class  for  six  single  blooms  of  any  Tea  or  Noisette, 
the  Rev.  J.  B.  Shackle  led  with  excellent  Mme,  Jules 
Gravereaux  ;  Mr.  E.  G.  Mocatta  fallowed  with  the  same 
variety,  and  Mr.  J.  B.  Fortescue  was  placed  third. 

For  Lady  Evelyn  Mason's  cup,  off'ered  for  six  bunches  of 
decorative  Roses,  Mr.  J.  B.  Fortescue  was  easily  first  with 
an  excellent  exhibit,  Mme.  Alfred  Carriere,  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay,  Mme.  Pernet-Ducher,  Dawn  and  Reine  Olga 
de  Wurtemburg  being  extra  good ;  second,  Mj.  Ernest 
Mocatta  :  and  third,  Mr.  Colin  Romaine. 

For  twelve  blooms,  distinct,  Mr.  E.  F.  Brown  was  first 
with  a  beautiful  stand  of  bloom.  In  this  stand  Bessie 
Brown  was  voted  the  beat  Hybrid  Tea  in  the  local  classes. 
Mr.  H.  Giford  was  second  and  the  Rev.  H.  S.  Arkwright 
third. 

For  six  Teas  or  Noisettes,  distinct,  Mr.  R.  House  was 
a  good  first,  Mr.  E.  F.  Brown  second  and  the  Rev.  H. 
Tower  third. 

There  was  some  very  keen  rivalry  for  the  decorated 
dinner-tables.  Mrs.  Maltby  won  the  first  prize  with  a 
beautifully  arranged  table  of  Sweet  Peas,  Gypsophila, 
Asparagus  plumoaus,  A.  Sprengeri  and  Grasses  ;  second, 
Mrs.  Fowler ;  third,  Mrs.  Shackle. 

For  the  Marchioness  of  Normandy's  cup,  for  a  group  of 
plants  arranged  in  a  half-circle  12  feet  by  6  feet,  Mr.  F. 
Ricardo  was  easily  first  with  a  tastefully  arranged  group 
and  Mr.  A.  H.  Benson  second. 

For  a  smaller  group,  Mrs.  Moss  Cockle  was  first  for  a  very 
effective  arrangement  of  Carnations,  DracEenas,  Schizan- 
thuses,  Oncidiums  and  Cypripediums.  Captain  Farwell 
was  second. 

Mr.  J.  B.  Fortescue  was  first  for  six  bunches  of  herbaceous 
perennials,  and  Mr.  F.  Ricardo  was  first  for  Carnations. 

NON-COMPETITH'E  GROUPS. 

The  nursery  exhibits  were  not  so  numerous  as  usual. 
Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware,  Limited,  Feltham,  had  a  splendid 
stand  of  herbaceous  flowers  ;  Mr.  H.  W.  Caister,  Slough, 
Sweet  Peas  and  Nectarines ;  Messrs.  Tit  and  Son,  Windsor, 
floral  decorations ;  Mr.  Charles  Turner,  Slough,  her- 
baceous flowers  and  Carnations  ;  Messrs.  George  Jackman 
and  Son,  Woking,  Roses  and  herbaceous  flowers  ;  Messrs. 
James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Roses,  herbaceous  flowers,  Izias 
and  Peeonies;  and  Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover, 
herbaceous  flowers  and  Sweet  Peas. 

The  classes  for  fruit  and  vegetables  were  fairly  well 
filled,  and  there  were  some  excellent  exhibits,  especially 
in  the  vegetable  classes.  Thanks  to  the  energy  of  Mr.  Burt, 
the  hon.  secretary,  the  arrangements  were  excellently 
carried  out,  and  if  the  weather  had  been  more  propitious 
there  is  no  doubt  that  the  attendance  would  have  been  a 
record  one. 


REDHILL  AND  REIGATE  HORTICULTURAL 
SOCIETY. 
On  Tuesday,  May  18,  the  members  paid  a  visit  to  Gatton 
Park  by  the  kind  invitation  of  their  president  (Sir 
Jeremiah  Colman).  This  was  the  first  meeting  of  the 
summer  session.  After  tea.  Sir  Jeremiah  Colman  said  he 
was  very  pleased  to  welcome  the  association  to  Gatton 
once  again,  and  sincerely  hoped  to  see  the  members  there 
many  times  more  in  the  years  to  come.  Mr.  Bound  pro- 
posed a  vote  of  thanks  to  Sir  Jeremiah  and  Lady  Colman, 
seconded  by  Mr.  Weeks.  The  visit  was  full  of  Interest 
and  terminated  all  too  soon,  the  company  being  loud  in 
their  praises  of  the  geniality  and  courtesy  of  iLr,  Collier 
(the  head-gardener)  and  his  able  assistants,  to  whom  the 
very  hearty  thanks  of  the  party  were  accorded. 

At  the  invitation  of  Mr.  H.  P.  Brandt  the  members  paid 
a  visit  to  Capenor,  Nutfield,  on  Tuesday,  June  16.  The 
company,  numbering  about  150,  were  met  at  the  gates  by 
Mr.  T.  Heron,  the  head-gardener,  who  conducted  them  to 
the  terrace,  where  a  sumptuous  tea  was  served.  Mr.  W. 
P.  Bound  (the  chairman  of  the  association)  voiced  the 
thanks  of  the  visitors  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brandt  for  their 
hospitality,  and  also  thanked  Mr.  Heron  for  the  trouble 
he  had  taken  on  behalf  of  the  society.  Mr.  Heron,  on 
behalf  of  Mr.  Brandt  and  himself,  thanked  the  visitors  for 
the  vote  ;  and  a  tour  of  inspection  was  then  made  of  the 
beautiful  gardens.  After  a  quiet  stroll  through  the  park 
the  company  started  for  home,  having  thoroughly  enjoyed 
the  visit. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  Jiilv  yd,   1909. 


SUTTON'S    CACTUS-FLOWERED    CINERARIAS. 


Hiuhoji  i'-  Ktitnts,  Ltii.,  I'linteis.  Loudon.  SF.. 


GARDEN. 


^sl^^- 


No.  1964. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


July  10,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


"The     Gakdeh" 

Flo\vi;r  Show..      .    333 
A  Rose   show   in   the 

Isle  of  Wight    . .     . .    333 
Notes  of  the  Week     334 
cokkebfondenoe 
Ants  and  Eoses       . .    334 
A  suggestion  for  the 
National     Uose 

Society 336 

The   Banksian   Kose 

at  Hemsted  Park. .    836 
Bryony  in  the  garden    335 

KiTOHEN  GAKDEH 

Parsley  promoted    . . 

Pea    Sutton's    Early 

Giant       

Fruit  Gakdeh 

Fruit  notes       . .     . . 
Gkeenhoube 

Notes  on  Orchids 
Editor's  Table      . .     . . 
Flower  Garden 

An  old  man's  garden 

The  hardy  Primulas 

Oxalis  enneaphylla . . 
Rose  Garden 

Roses  Viscountess 
Folkestone  and 
Bouquet  d'Or 


336 


337 
337 


338 


339 


Rose  garden 
Some    good    garden 

Koses       

Too  much  Kambler  . 


339 


340 


340 


340 

341 
341 
341 


GARDENINa  FOR  BESINNBRS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week        

The  right  and  wrong 
way   of   staking 

plants      

Chinese    Primulas, 

Cinerarias    and 

Calceolarias   . .     . . 

Thinning    Dahlia 

shoots      

Autumn  Cauliflowers 
The  Town  Garden  .. 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For    the  South   and 

South  Midlands    ..    342 
For  the   North   and 
North  Midlands  ..    342 

Books     342 

Answers  to  corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . .  . .  343 
Greenhouse  ..  ..  343 
Fruit  garden  . .  . .  343 
Miscellaneous  ..  ..  344 
SOOEETBBS        344 


THE 


W 


ILLrUSTRATIONS. 

The  Banksian  Rose  at  Hemsted  Park,  Cranbrook      . .    335 

Pea  Sutton's  Early  Giant     336 

337 
338 
339 
340 
341 


Rose  Bouquet  d'Or  at  Bayman  Manor,  Chesham 
Rose  Viscountess  Folkestone  at  Bayman  Manor 
Oxalis  enneaphylla  in  a  Lincolnshire  garden 
The  right  and  wrong  way  of  staking  plants  . .     . . 
Thinning  Dahlia  shoots       


EDITORIAL    NOTIGBS. 

Bvery  depa/rtm&nt  of  hortiouXture  is  represented  in  THB 
Ga&dhn,  a/nd.  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
reUbting  to  matters  upon  which  they  loish  advice  from 
competent  autJtorities.  With  that  object  he  zoishes  to  make 
the  *' Aneioers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature,  amdt  lohen  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readme 
toill  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  0$  their  assistanoe. 
AU  GommunicatioTis  must  be  written  cXewrly  on  one  side 
ordy  oj  th/e  paper ^  and  addressed  to  the  Hditob  of  The 
GABDHN,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  0/  the  sender. 


The  Sditor  welcomes  photographs,  a/rtides,  and  notes, 
but  he  wUl  Tiot  be  responsible  for  heir  safe  return,  AU 
reasonable  care,  how&oer,  mU  be  taken,  and  where  sta/mps 
are  enclosed,  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  van-accepted 
oontributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproductiim  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  cfwner  qf  the  copyright  toiU  be 
treated  mth.  

The  Editor  toill  Tiot  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributioris  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  Thb  Gabdbn 
WiU  alone  be  recognised  as  accepta/nce. 


GARDEN"    FLOWER 
SHOW. 

IMPORTANT    NOTICE. 

E  wish  to  draw  the  attention  of 
all  our  readers  to  the  entry 
forms  for  our  forthcoming 
flower  show,  which  appear  in 
our  advertisement  pages  this 
week.  As  most  of  our  readers  will  remember, 
this  show  is  to  be  held  at  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster, 
London,  on  the  28th  inst.,  when  £100  will  be 
offered  in  prizes,  as  well  as  one  gold  and  two 
silver  medals.  We  believe  that  this  show  will  be 
an  advance  on  that  held  last  year,  as  already 
there  are  indications  of  a  large  number  of 
readers  exhibiting.  In  addition  to  the  judges 
mentioned  some  time  ago,  we  have  pleasure  in 
announcing  that  we  have  secured  the  services  of 
Miss  Philbrick  of  Halstead  and  Mr.  Charles 
Foster,  late  horticultural  superintendent  at  the 
University  College,  Reading. 

As  there  are  several  points  that  do  not  appear 
to  be  quite  clear  in  the  schedule,  they  are  dealt 
with  below,  so  as  not  to  cause  any  unnecessary 
trouble  to  those  who  intend  to  exhibit.  Exhibits 
will  be  received  at  the  hall  after  5  p.m.  on  the 
evening  of  the  27th  inst. ,  and,  as  stated  on  the 
entry  forms,  all  exhibits  must  be  ready  for  the 
judges  at  11.30  a.m.  on  the  morning  of  the  show. 
The  hall  will  be  opened  to  exhibitors  at  6  a.m. 
on  the  morning  of  the  show,  and,  of  course, 
those  who  so  desire  may  stage  their  exhibits  the 
night  before. 

All  vases  and  dishes  are  provided,  excepting 
those  used  for  table  decorations,  and  those 
exhibiting  the  latter  must  provide  their  cloths, 
or  whatever  is  necessary,  bare  tables  only 
being  provided,  the  approximate  size  of  which  is 
stated  in  the  schedule. 

One  set  of  coupons  only  is  needed  from  each 
exhibitor,  and  this  will  entitle  him  or  her  te 
enter  in  any  or  all  of  the  classes.  The  exhibition 
will  be  open  to  the  public,  free  of  charge,  from 
1.30  p.m.  till  6  p.m.,  and  no  exhibits  must  be 
removed  until  the  close  of  the  show. 

We  appeal  to  all  our  readers  to  do  their  utmost 
to  exhibit  at  this  show,  and  thus  prove  to  the 
public  generally  what  they  are  capable  of  doing 
in  the  way  of  cultivation  of  flowers,  fruits  and 


return  them  to  us  as  early  as  possible,  and  not 
wait  until  the  last  day  for  sending  them  in.  This 
will  help  us  considerably. 


ROSE    SHOW    IN    THE 
ISLE   OF   WIGHT. 


AU  exhibits  that  are  not  taken  away  by  the 
exhibitors  will  be  sent  to  a  London  hospital ;  and 
all  coupons  must  be  sent  with  entry  forms,  and 
not  with  the  exhibits  as  previously  stated  in  the 
schedule. 

We    trust    that    all    our    readers    who    intend 


Offices:  SO,  Tavietnek  Street,  Otmmt  Oarden,  W.C.         '  exhibiting  will  kindly  fill  in  the  entry  forms  and  •  I  cannot  say 


The  inhabitants  of  Newport  in  the  Isle  ef 
Wight  have  always  observed  June  28,  the 
Coronation  Day  of  the  late  Queen  Victoria, 
as  a  holiday ;  and  although  this  day  is  not  the 
King's  Coronation  Day,  yet,  in  grateful  remem- 
brance of  the  late  Queen,  they  still  observe  the 
day  as  a  holiday,  shut  up  all  their  shops  and 
disport  themselves  wherever  their  fancy  takes 
them.  One  of  the  places  to  which  most  of  the 
inhabitants  go  on  this  day  is  the  annual  Rose 
show  of  the  Isle  of  Wight  Rose  Society,  which 
was  held  this  year  in  the  beautiful  grounds  of 
Belleeroft,  about  a  mile  out  of  Newport,  by  the 
kind  permission  of  Mrs.  Russell  Cooke,  whose 
charming  house  was  built  and  decorated  by  the 
well-known  brothers  Adam.  The  weather  was 
all  that  could  be  desired  from  a  visitor's  point 
of  view,  although  perhaps  rather  hot  for  an 
exhibitor's  Roses,  and  in  this  respect  had  a  great 
advantage  over  the  Ryde  Rose  show,  held  the 
previous  week  in  a  downpour  of  rain. 

Although  every  facility  was  given  by  the  com- 
mittee to  exhibitors  in  the  way  of  spacious  tents 
and  ample  room  for  the  boxes,  yet  the  competi- 
tion could  not  be  described  as  good,  there  being 
only  two  exhibitors  in  the  open  classes,  so  that, 
at  any  rate  in  this  division,  the  judges'  task  was 
not  a  hard  one,  Messrs.  Prince  and  Hicks 
dividing  the  prizes. 

In  the  open  class  for  twelve  Roses  of  one 
variety  there  were  two  very  good  boxes,  one 
of  Richmond  and  the  other  of  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux.  The  colour  of  the  former  was 
almost  startling  in  its  brilliancy,  and  from  other 
speeimens  exhibited  this  Rose  is  destined  to  play 
a  leading  part  in  future  exhibitions,  as  it  does  not 
seem  to  mind  the  heat.  The  blooms  of  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux  were  very  fine ;  but  this  is  a  Rose 
that  is  easily  affected  by  the  rough  wet  weather 
we  have  had  lately,  and  consequently  they  were 
not  in  quite  such  a  good  condition  as  those  of 
Richmond,  yet  on  account  of  their  shape  and 
solidity  the  judges  awarded  an  equal  first  to 
them. 

In  the  classes  open  to  all  amateurs  there  was 
only  one  entry  in  each  of  the  two  classes.  This 
was  unfortunate,  as  the  society , offered  three 
prizes  in  each  class.  Perhaps  the  show  being 
held  on  a  Monday  prevented  any  mainlanders 
coming,  especially  as  the  Southampton  show  was 
the  next  day. 

In  the  Isle  of  Wight  classes,  open  to  members 
of  the  society  only,  the  competition  was  better, 
Mrs.  Murray  securing  the  greater  number  of 
prizes.  She  showed  six  beautiful  blooms  of 
Lady  Ashtown.  In  the  other  classes  there  was 
a  bloom  of  Captain  Hayward  which  will  live  in 
ray  memory  as  this  Rose  at  its  beat,  the  colour 
and  shape  being  perfect.  I  think  it  was 
exhibited  by  Mrs.  Mainwaring,  and  why  the 
medal  for  the  best  Rose  was  not  awarded  to  it 


1 


334 


THE     GARDEN. 


IJULY  10, 1909. 


After  the  visitors  had  seen  the  Roses  they 
were  entertained  by  sports,  judging  children 
with  hoops  decorated  with  flowers,  and  the 
strains  of  a  military  band,  and  had  a  thoroughly 
enjoyable  day.  J.  R. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  swpplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

July  1.3. — Wolverhampton  Floral  Fete  (three 
days) ;  National  Sweet  Pea  Society's  Provincial 
Show  at  Saltaire. 

July  14. — National  Rose  Society's  Provincial 
Show  at  Luton. 

July  15. — West  of  Scotland  Rosarians Society's 
Show. 

July  16. — National  Sweet  Pea  Society's  Outing 
to  Reading. 

July  17. — National  Sweet  Pea  Society's  Outing 
to  Coggeshall. 

July  28. — The  Garden  Flower  Show,  Horti- 
cultural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 
Admission  free. 


National    Sweet    Pea    Society's 

OUtlngrS. — The  outing  of  the  above  society  to 
Kelvedon,  Witham  and  Coggeshall,  which  had 
been  arranged  for  July  9,  has  been  postponed  till 
July  17. 

A  flowep  show  In  Bedford  Park. 
A  delightful  little  flower  show  was  to  be  seen  in 
the  Club  Room  of  Bedford  Park  on  Saturday 
afternoon  last.  Those  who  live  in  this  first 
garden  city  for  the  most  part  appreciate  this 
display  of  flowers,  and  the  e.^chibiti  were 
excellent.  Excursions  are  arranged  to  various 
gardens  during  the  summer.  The  hon.  secretary 
is  Mr.  Robert  Read,  Camelot,  South  Parade,  in 
this  district. 

The     National     Rose     Society's 

show.  —  An  enjoyable  day  was  spent  by 
rosarians  on  Friday,  July  2,  in  the  Royal  Botanic 
Gardens  at  Regent's  Park,  the  occasion  of  the 
annual  exhibition  of  the  National  Rose  Society. 
Unfortunately,  the  display  of  Roses  was  poor, 
owing  to  the  wretched  weath«r  of  June  ;  but  we 
look  forward  to  the  exhibition  at  Luton  on 
July  14,  a«  then  probably  the  competition  will 
be  more  exciting.  A  report  of  the  show  is  given 
in  a  special  supplement.  Her  Majesty  the 
Queen,  patroness  of  the  society,  visited  the 
exhibition  and  was  received  by  the  president,  the 
Rev.  F.  Page-Roberts,  who  was  accompanied  by 
Miss  Willmott,  V.  M.H.  Hearty  thanks  are  due 
to  the  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  E.  Mawley,  Mr. 
G.  W.  Cook,  Mr.  H.  E.  Molyneux  and  all  who 
helped  to  make  the  National  Rose  Society's  show 
such  a  success.  Nor  must  one  forget  Mr.  E.  F. 
Hawes,  superintendent  of  the  Betanio  Gardens, 
who  works  so  hard  for  the  gardens  and  horti- 
culture generally. 

An    amateur's    Interesting 

garden.-— One  of  the  most  interesting  and 
instructive  gardens  that  we  have  had  the 
pleasure  of  inspecting  for  some  time  past  is  that 
of  Mr.  G.  Hobday,  Havering  Road,  Romford. 
Formed  some  fifteen  years  ago  by  Mr.  Hobday 
himself,  this  garden  of  about  two  acres  now  teems 
with  plant-life  in  every  form,  more  particularly 
high-class  fruits  and  vegetables,  several  fine  groups 
of  the  latter  having  at  various  times  been  staged 
before  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  at 
Vincent  Square.  Hobday's  Giant  Rhubarb  is 
probably  known  to  many  of  our  readers,  and 
here,  in  its  home,  we  saw  a  magnificent  stock  of 
it.  Pea  Essex  Wonder  is  another  good  vegetable 
raised  by  Mr.  Hobday,  and  about  half  an  acre  of 
this  variety  growing  in  an  adjoining  field  at 
the  time  of  our  visit  looked  in  first-class  con- 
dition. Then  we  saw  a  Broad  Bean  that  will 
prove  very  welcome  when  Mr.  Hobday  decides 
to  put  it  on   the   market ;  it  is  a  long-podded 


variety,  possessing  the  flavour  of  the  old  Green 
Windsor  and  has  remarkable  cropping  qualities, 
eight  to  ten  pods  on  a  stem  being  the  usual 
number.  Gooseberry  bushes  were  simply  ropes 
of  large  fruit,  a  fact  attributed  by  the  owner  to 
the  placing  of  bees  among  the  bushes  When  in 
flower.  Strawberries,  Peaches  in  the  open 
and  carrying  good  crops  of  promising  fruit ; 
Grapes  Black  Hamburgh  and  Buckland  Sweet- 
water ;  Pears,  Apples,  Nuts  and,  indeed,  all 
kinds  of  fruit  were  cropping  in  profusion.  Nor 
must  we  forget  the  Onions,  of  which  Mr.  Hobday 
has,  in  the  past,  grown  some  splendid  examples  ; 
the  beds  that  we  saw  were  full  of  promise,  the 
plants  looking  remarkably  healthy.  As  an 
example  of  what  can  be  done  by  an  amateur  whe 
has  a  deeply  seated  love  of  gardening  this 
garden  is  probably  without  a  parallel,  and  we  feel 
sure  that  the  council  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  did  the  right  thing  when  they  elected 
Mr.  Hobday  to  the  fruit  and  vegetable  committee. 
Mr.  Hobday  is  also  an  enthusiastic  member  of 
the  newly  formed  National  Vegetable  Society's 
executive  committee. 

Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.'s 
inauguration  supper.— On  the  29th 
ult.,  in  the  St.  Mark's  Institute,  Bush  Hill 
Park,  the  staff  and  friends  of  the  newly 
formed  firm  of  Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co. 
were  entertained  to  supper  by  the  firm,  and 
a  most  enjoyable  evening  was  spent,  about 
2(X)  being  present.  After  the  supper  the  loyal 
toast  was  drunk  with  musical  honours, 
and  Mr.  W.  Watson,  curator  of  the  Royal 
Gardens,  Kew,  and  who  was  some  thirty  years 
ago  employed  at  the  Clapton  Nurseries  of  the 
Ute  Hugh  Low  and  Co. ,  proposed  ' '  Success  to  the 
New  Firm."  In  doing  so  he  sketched  the  history 
of  the  late  firm  for  the  past  eighty  years,  and 
referred  to  the  influence  it  had  exercised  not 
only  on  ordinary  horticulture,  but  on  botanical 
science.  He  also  mentioned  the  interesting  fact 
that  several  employee's  of  the  late  firm,  whom 
they  used  to  term  ' '  old  "  thirty  years  ago,  were 
still  with  the  present  firm.  Mr.  Harry  Barnard, 
the  well-known  traveller  of  the  late  firm,  and  who 
is  now  acting  in  the  same  capacity  for  Messrs. 
Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  made  a  moat  humorous  yet 
interesting  speech,  referring  to  the  many  red- 
letter  days  of  the  old  firm.  Then,  amid  great 
enthusiasm,  he  presented  to  Mr.  Stuart  Low,  on 
behalf  of  the  employes,  a  handsome  silver  cup  as 
a  memento  of  the  occasion  and  as  a  token  of  the 
esteem  in  which  he  was  held  by  them  all.  Mr. 
Low,  in  responding,  said  they  had  a  big  task 
before  them,  but  with  such  an  enthusiastic  staff 
he  felt  sure  the  future  would  be  a  bright  one. 
An  interesting  feature  of  the  evening  was  the  pre- 
sentation by  Mr.  Low  of  a  handsomely  mounted 
walking-stick  to  Mr.  George  Mayes,  an  employe 
who  had  been  with  the  late  firm  for  fifty  years, 
and  a  purse  of  gold  was  also  presented  to  this 
veteran  on  behalf  of  his  fellow-workmen  and 
heads  of  departments.  Mr.  L.  J.  Cook  next  pro- 
posed the  health  of  the  "  Visitors  and  the  Horti- 
cultural Press,"  on  behalf  of  whom  Mr.  F.  W. 
Harvey  responded.  Both  vocal  and  instrumental 
music  was  well  rendered  by  members  and  friends 
of  the  staff. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(Tlie  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opiniom 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 


Novel  flower-vases.— A  very  pretty 
decoration  for  a  room  can  be  found  in  the 
brown  glazed  jars  and  pots  one  buys  cream 
in  at  the  dairies.  Filled  with  La  France  Roses 
and  their  own  beautiful  leaves  they  look 
charming,  the  delicate  pink  of  these  lovely  Roses 
showing  against  the  deep  brown  of  the  jars  with 
excellent  effect. — Shamrock. 

Culture  of  Rosemary.- In  your  issue 
of  .Tune   12,   page   292,  there    is  an  interesting 


article  on  Rosmarinus  officinalis  which  may, 
I  fear,  tend  to  frighten  some  amateurs  situated 
as  I  am  from  trying  to  grow  this  charming  plant, 
and  which  differs  so  much  from  my  own  experi- 
ence that  the  following  notes  may  be  of  interest. 
Notwithstanding  that  my  soil  is  heavy  Sussex 
clay,  practically  destitute  of  lime,  and  the  posi- 
tion fully  exposed  to  south-west  gales  from  the 
sea  (about  a  mile  distant),  I  find  Rosemary  easy 
to  propagate  by  cuttings,  either  with  or  without 
a  heel.  These  are  preferably  taken  towards 
the  end  of  August  or  September  when  well 
ripened,  and  should  not  be  less  than  9  inches 
long,  a  good  6  inches  being  inserted  in  the 
ground,  special  care  being  taken  to  firm  the 
earth  round  them  alter  any  severe  frost.  The 
plants  grow  freely  in  this  heavy  soil,  making 
bushes  Z  feet  to  4  feet  high  in  their  third  year, 
and  some  old  plants  attaining  the  height  of 
8  feet.  They  are  specially  useful,  as  they  thrive 
in  the  windy  and  exposed  positions,  and  thus  fill 
gaps  where  few  other  things  will  grow. — F.  P.  H. 
Carpenterla  callfornlca  in  East 
Sussex. — It  may  interest  some  of  your  readers 
to  know  that  in  this  part  (East  Sussex)  Car- 
penterla oalifornica  is  now  (.June  28)  in  full 
bloom,  its  masses  of  pure  white  flowers  with 
their  bright  yellow  stamens  and  sweet  scent 
making  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sights  in  the 
garden,  especially  when  in  juxtaposition  with 
the  red  Pomegranate,  which  is  also  blooming, 
though  more  sparsely  than  usual,  probably  owing 
to  the  cold  spring.  Crinodendron  hookerianum 
(Triouspidaria),  with  its  bright  red  flowers,  has 
nearly  finished  its  first  blooming,  while  to  take 
its  place  the  elegant  red-mauve  flowers  of  Indigo- 
fera  gerardiana  are  showing  up  among  its 
feathery  foliage,  making  a  becoming  contrast  to 
the  close,  vivid  green  leaves  of  Schizophragma 
hydrangeoides  (Hydrangea  petiolaris)  with  its 
frothy  masses  of  creamy  blossoms.  — F.  P.  H. 

The  Tree  Mallows.— With  reference  to 
the  article  on  the  Tree  Mallows  in  The  Garden 
on  pages  314  and  315,1  think  you  may  like  to  know 
my  experience  with  Lavatera  arborea.  When 
spending  a  few  days  in  .Jersey  in  1906,  I  noticed 
a  low-growing  flowering  shrub  on  the  headland 
known  as  La  Corbifere,  which  is  exposed  on  three 
sides  to  the  sea.  As  I  admired  the  Mallow,  which 
was  then  partly  in  flower  and  partly  in  seed,  I 
took  a  few  of  the  "cheeses,'"  intending  to  sow 
the  seed  in  my  garden.  As  it  was  growing  on 
La  Corbii're  its  height  was  about  a  foot,  but  when 
I  came  to  plant  it  (after  raising  in  a  pot  in  the 
greenhouse)  in  my  garden  it  grew  to  about  2  feet 
the  first  year  (1907)  without  flowering.  The 
following  year  (1908),  having  apparently  died 
down  in  winter,  it  shot  up  rapidly  in  spring, 
and  by  August  was  nearly  12  feet  in  height, 
bearing  a  profusion  of  its  beautiful  flowers.  This 
year  it  promises  to  be  as  tall  as  it  was  last  year 
and  has  formed  a  handsome  shrubby  bush.  I 
am  looking  forward  to  seeing  the  beautiful  rose- 
coloured  flowers,  with  purple  veining  and  purple 
centres,  which  attracted  my  attention  when  I 
first  saw  the  plant  in  Jersey.  It  suffers,  unfor- 
tunately, from  attacks  of  the  rust  fungus,  which 
is  so  deadly  to  Hollyhocks ;  and  while  on  this 
point  I  should  be  obliged  if  you  could  tell  me 
how  to  ward  off  the  attacks  of  rust,  which  ruined 
most  of  my  Hollyhocks  last  year.  I  ought  also 
to  mention  that  the  plant  I  am  speaking  of  is 
the  only  one  of  four  seedlings  which  flowered ; 
the  other  three  died  off  after  the  first  year.  It 
is  in  front  of  a  wall  facing  south,  and  protected 
on  the  east  and  west  by  greenhouses.  This  may 
account  for  its  having  established  itself  so  well, 
while  the  others,  planted  in  a  more  exposed 
position,  failed.  Still,  one  would  expect  seeds 
from  a  plant  growing  on  such  a  windswept  head- 
land as  La  Corbii^'re  to  produce  plants  able  to 
stand  any  exposure.  But  I  can  assign  no  ether 
reason  for  the  failure  of  the  other  three  seedling 
plants. — Georoe  Ranking  (Lieut. -Colonel), 
Oxjord. 

Ants  and  Roses. — I  was  interested  to 
see  the  notes  of  your  correspondents  on  pages  299 


July  10,  1909,] 


THE     GARDEN. 


335 


and  311  with  regard  to  ants,  which  are  a  real 
plague  in  my  garden,  though  I  have  not  satisfied 
myself  that  they  do  any  appeciable  harm  to 
Roses  or  to  the  above-ground  parts  of  any  plants, 
nor  do  I  believe  that  they  bring  green  fly. 
Where  green  fly  exists  ants  will  certainly  congre- 
gate, but  I  think  that  is  all.  The  damage  to  the 
Rose  buds  is,  I  have  always  imagined,  caused  by 
caterpillars  ;  this  results  in  an  exudation  of  sap, 
which  attracts  the  ants  noticed  by  your  corre- 
spondent. I  have  seen  ants  in  great  quantities 
on  the  unopened  buds  of  several  species  besides 
Roses,  and  have  observed  no  damage  caused  by 
them.  On  the  other  hand,  after  catching  a 
caterpillar  which  has  bored  through  a  oalyx  tube, 
I  have  afterwards  found  the  wound  covered 
with  ants.  Apropos  of  these  insects,  a  great 
deal  of  nonsense  (if  you  will  excuse  the  strong 
expression)  is  written  about  the  ease  with  which 
they  can  be  exterminated.  You  have  only  to 
find  their  nest,  we  are  told,  then  put  a  spade 
into  it  and  pour  in  boiling  water  or  paraffin.  We 
are  never  told  what  to  do  with  the  plants  in  the 
meantime.  I  often  wonder  whether  the  people 
who  write  thus  have  ever  seen  an  ant-ii5ested 
garden.  Here  they  establish  themselves  under 
the  choicest  plants,  chiefly  on  the  rockeries,  but 
also  in  the  open  border.  They  extract  all  the  soil 
from  the  roots  and  pile  it  on  to  the  crowns,  and 
in  addition  they  peel  the  epidermis  from  the 
roetleti,  which,  of  course,  kills  the  plants.  How 
is  the  boiling  water  or  paraffin  cure  to  be  applied  ? 
Large  numbers,  both  of  the  insects  and  their 
pupse,  can  be  collected  by  inverting  a  flower-pot 
Qver  the  nest  and  shaking  the  contents  into 
boiling  water.  This  gives  one  the  satisfaction 
of  scoring  o£F  them,  but  it  is  not  a  cure.  Vaporite 
is  very  effeetive  in  making  them  move  on  a  few 
inches,  and  if  they  are  noticed  in  time  will 
save  the  plants  from  destruction  ;  but  I  know  of 
no  cure.  I  have  both  the  small  red  and  the 
somewhat  larger  black  sort.  Both  are  destruc- 
tive, but  the  red  sort  is  the  worst.  Next  to 
caterpillars  they  are  my  worst  garden  plague.  — 
A.  H.  WoLLBT-DoD,  Walton-on-Thames. 

If  your  correspondents  who  are  troubled 

with  ants  will  do  as  follows  they  will  soon 
be  rid  of  these  troublesome  pests :  Roses — 
Pick  off  damaged  buds,  lightly  fork  the 
ground  round  the  tree,  then  with  a  hose  or 
watering-pot  thoroughly  saturate  the  ground 
with  water  and  puddle  it  well.  For  Carrots, 
&c. — Dutch  lioe  the  ground,  then  treat  it 
the  same ;  the  saturated  soil  sticks  to  the 
ants  and  they  soon  perish.  Also  find  the  nests  and 
water  them  well ;  ants  are  never  in  damp  places. 
Of  course,  the  ground  must  be  hoed  the  next  day 
or  so  to  break  the  crust  that  will  form.  — Thomas 
Davies. 

A  suggestion  for  the  National 
Rose  Society. — Of  oourse,  it  is  too  late  now 
to  make  any  alteration  in  the  schedule,  but  as 
many  rosarians  will  soon  meet  I  throw  out  a 
suggestion  which  I  think  would  tend  to  make 
the  Metropolitan  show  still  more  useful  to  its 
visitors.  There  is  an  increasing  demand  for 
Roses  suitable  for  bedding  and  massing,  and  the 
general  public  want  to  know  the  best  sorts. 
They  cannot  judge  of  the  habit  of  a  Rose  from 
the  bunches  usually  put  up  as  garden  or  decora- 
tive Roses,  for  these  are  capable  of  being 
"faked"  as  much  as  the  show  bloom.  What  I 
should  like  to  see  would  be  large,  oval  baskets, 
fitted  with  suitable  tubes  holding  plenty  of 
water  and  provided  by  the  society,  so  that 
exhibitors  could  bring  up  a  good  mass  of  a  sort 
with  all  their  lovely  buds  intact  and  their 
delightful  foliage  preserved,  and  make  a  display 
of  what  certain  Roses  are  capable  of  doing  in  the 
way  of  decorating  our  gardens.  This  would  be 
quite  feasible,  and  the  baskets  could  ba  arranged 
so  that  the  ugly  gaps  now  often  visible  on  the 
benches  would  be  filled,  or  they  could  be 
arranged  altogether  on  a  somewhat  lower  table. 
Substantial  prizes  could  be  offered  for  the  best 
basket  of  each  colour,  leaving  the  variety  to  the 
discretion  of  the  exhibitor.     I  want  to  see  this 


national  show  with  less  of  the  box  element  and 
less  of  the  Bamboo  frame,  generally  a  most 
ugly  mode  for  displaying  the  Rose,  but  with 
something  that  would  be  a  nearer  approach  to  a 
natural  style.  There  has  been  a  great  advance 
in  the  show  of  late  years  with  the  fine  groups,  but 
I  think  the  society  might  go  one  better,  and  if 
the  day  proved  a  hot  one,  not  allow  the  show 
to  be  so  sadly  marred  by  having  to  display  the 
blooms  in  a  tropical  atmosphere,  but  try  and 
arrange  for  a  double  covering  to  the  tents,  suoh 
as  is  done  on  our  great  steamers,  or  let  the  sides 
be  taken  away  early  on  the  morning  of  the  show 
before  the  mischief  caused  by  the  stifling  atmo- 
sphere is  done. — P. 

The  Bankslan  Rose  at  Hemsted 
Park. — The  accompanying  illustration  of  a 
Banksian  Rose  growing  at  Hemsted  Park  is  from 
a  photograph  kindly  sent  to  us  by  the  Earl  of 
Cranbrook,  and  plainly  demonstrates  to  what 
extent  this  beautiful  Rose  will  develop  when  it 
once  becomes  established. 

Hepbaceous  Paeonles.— The  Pteony  is 
the  garden  flower  of  the  moment,  and  there  is 


THE   BANKSIAN  ROSE  AT   lEMSTED   PABK, 
CRANBROOK. 

nothing  to  compare  with  it  among  herbaceous 
plants  for  its  noble  form,  stately  grandeur  or 
intense  or  soft  and  delicate  colouring.  In  either 
of  these  there  is  enough  of  variety  to  satisfy 
even  the  most  fastidious  of  flower-lovers,  while 
just  as  varied  and  fascinating  are  they  in  single, 
semi-double  or  full-double  flowered  varieties. 
In  the  cut  state,  too,  the  flowers  are  exceedingly 
beautiful,  and  if  secured  in  the  early  bud  stage 
and  when  the  petals  are  nearly  or  quite  dry,  the 
blossoms  last  a  long  time  in  perfection.  Many 
of  them,  too,  are  distinctly  sweet-scented,  and 
in  this  way,  while  adding  conspicuous  beauty  to 
drawing-room  or  entrance -hall,  afford  much 
pleasure  by  a  fragrance  that  is  both  pleasing  and 
enjoyable.  At  a  recent  meeting  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  I  saw  some  hundreds  of 
the  flowers  of  these  Pseoniea.  Of  those  seen  I 
must  mention  Philomele,  semi-double,  soft  rose, 
with  a  large  tuft  of  petaloid  anthers  in  the  centre  ; 
a  superb  flower  for  all  purposes  and  very  hand- 
some under  artificial  light.  Kama  No.  Rego- 
rome,  a  semi-double  flower  of  Japanese  origin ; 
rich  crimson,  golden  anthers  in  the  centre.  Mar- 
guerite  Gerard,     soft    satin    pink,    full-double. 


Eugene  Verdier,  deep  pink,  full-double ;  a 
delightful  flower.  Caroline  AUain,  soft  pink 
guard  petals,  inner  petals  cream,  centre  petals 
soft  pink ;  a  very  handsome  flower.  Mme. 
Bernhardt,  pale  flesh  pink.  Buchesse  de 
Nemours,  a  superb  full-double  of  creamy  tone 
throughout,  the  outer  petals  being  broad  and 
roundly  formed.  Victor  Hugo  is  of  purplish 
crimson.  Prolifera  superba  is  deep  rose 
with  salmon  and  buff  centre.  Festiva  maxima, 
one  of  the  largest  and  earliest,  is  pure 
white,  splashed  at  centre  with  crimson. 
Neva  is  rose  and  very  full.  Mons.  Charles 
Leveque  is  a  satin  pink  flswer  that  is  very 
charming  and  fuU-petalled.  These  are  but  a 
selection  of  the  best,  and  they  fully  represent 
the  most  useful  shades  of  colour  found  in  these 
handsome  midsummer  border  flowers. — E.  H. 
Jenkins. 
Autumn  sowing  of  Sweet  Peas. 

I  was  interested  to  see  your  remarks  on  the 
Sweet  Peas  of  Miss  Hemus.  I  visited  this  lady's 
garden  in  Whit  Week  and  saw  the  blooms,  and 
they  were  certainly  very  fine.  The  gardens  are 
not  at  all  sheltered ;  in  fact,  rather  open.  It 
was  rather  interesting,  for  I  understand  that 
when  the  blooms  were  shown  at  the  Temple 
Show,  many  visitors  not  over-kindly  expressed 
doubts  as  to  the  flowers  having  been  grown  in 
the  open.  May  I  suggest  that  you  encourage 
your  readers  to  try  the  plan  of  autumn  sowing. 
The  system  is  likely  to  call  forth,  in  some 
districts,  the  ingenuity  of  the  growers,  and  so 
many  gardeners  are  not  imbued  with  the  experi- 
mental spirit. — Charles  W.  Gamble. 

Bryony  In  the  garden.— The  apprecia- 
tive notes  of  Mrs.  E.  Curgwen  on  the  ornamental 
character  of  the  two  Bryonies  (The  Garden, 
June  12,  page  288),  strikes  a  keynote  upon  which 
many  harmonies  might  be  built  with  the  flowers 
of  our  native  flora,  with  or  without  drawing 
upon  those  cultivated  in  our  gardens.  The 
capabilities  of  our  wild  flora  are  frequently 
illustrated  in  country  flower  shows  by  bouquets 
collected  by  children  from  the  fields  and  hedge- 
rows. It  is  often  remarked  that  if  these  flowers 
were  cultivated  rather  than  being  wild,  they  would 
receive  a  greater  amount  of  attention  and  admira- 
tion ;  but  many  of  our  native  plants  compare  most 
favourably  with  those  we  pay  so  much  atten- 
tion to  in  the  garden,  and  if  not  used  solely 
for  house  or  table  decoration  they  might  well 
find  a  place  for  mixing  with  others  that  cost 
more.  Quite  recently  I  saw  a  very  happy 
combination  of  wild  and  cultivated  flowers  on 
the  altar  of  a  little  village  church  between 
Budleigh  Salterton  and  Sidmouth.  As  it  was 
necessary  that  the  flowers  should  be  all  white, 
the  bulk  of  them  were  Narcissi ;  but  to  give 
lightness  to  the  whole  a  free  use  was  made  of 
the  spreading  umbels  of  the  Cow  Parsnip  or  Cow 
Parsley,  as  it  is  soaietimes  called  (Heracleum 
Sphondylium),  which  is  now,  and  has  been  for 
some  time  past,  a  prominent  feature  in  the  hedge- 
banks  in  this  neighbourhood.  It  is  sometimes 
said  that  wild  flowers  are  not  suited  for  church 
decoration,  especially  for  that  of  the  altar  ;  but 
Nature's  own  productions,  as  distinct  from  those 
of  the  expert  cultivator,  would  seem  to  have  a 
prior  claim  for  such  a  use,  so  long  as  a  pleasing 
effect  is  produced ;  at  any  rate,  many  of  them 
might  be  frequently  introduced  in  combination 
with  the  more  costly  flowers,  not  for  the  sake 
of  cheapness  but  for  effect.  With  regard  to  the 
introduetion  into  the  garden  of  such  plants  as 
the  Bryonies  and  the  "  lovely  white  Convolvulus," 
which  Mrs.  Curgwen  would  advocate,  I  think 
most  people  with  gardens,  especially  small  ones, 
would  be  very  shy  of  introducing  such  plants, 
and  would  be  quite  content  to  gather  the  flowers 
from  the  hedgerows.  Nothing  can  be  more 
beautiful  or  ornamental  than  the  Goose  Grass 
or  Cleavers  (Galium  Aparine),  which  covers  the 
hedges  with  masses  of  white  festoons  at  this 
season  of  the  year,  but,  like  the  white  Convolvulus, 
it  is  a  terrible  pest  in  a  garden. — John  R. 
Jackson,  Lympstone,  Devon. 


336 


THE     GAKDEN. 


(July  10,  1909. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN 


PARSLEY    PROMOTED. 

RECENTLY  I  had  occasion  to  draw 
I  attention  to  the  extraordinarily 
narrow  way  in  which  the  kitchen 
garden  is  mostly  dealt  with.  So 
^  Few  have  made  the  discovery  that 
here  are  to  be  found  many  most 
decorative  plants  whose  sphere  is  generally  con- 
lined  rigidly  to  providing  material  for  the  dinner- 
table.  The  value  of  the  Potato  flower  as  an 
instance  of  beauty  is  wholly  overlooked.  A  well- 
grown  truss  of  this,  with  its  eleven  starry 
blossoms  of  delicate  lilacs,  greens  and  whites, 
has  a  peculiar  charm  when  judiciously  treated, 
not  as  a  vegetable  at  all  in  stiff  rows,  but  as  a 
flower  planted  in  clumps. 

I  am,  however,  now  eonoerned  with  a  less 
showy,  but  still  uncommonly  useful,  plant  little 
known  as  out  foliage — the  very  utilitarian  and 
aggressively  inevitable  Parsley,  which  most  cooks 
sin  in  employing  with  a  very  heavy  hand  on  all 
poisible  and  impossible  ooeasions.  Now  I  main- 
tain that  Parsley  leaves  are  extremely  attractive 
in  themselves,  especially  those  varieties  which  do 
not  curl  up  to  excess,  and  therefore  do  not  make 
the  best  culinary  decoration. 

Homburg  Parsley  (Apium  petroselinum  jsesi- 
formis)  can  be  a  really  decorative  thing.  The 
plant  varies  extremely,  the  prettiest  form  being 
that  which  bears  leaves  that  are  quite  spread. 


I  think  no  one  who  overthrows  convention  and 
follows  me  in  the  use  of  this  plant  as  a  out-foliage 
plant  will  ever  reproach  me  with  having  made 
misleading  eulogy.  E.  Ccrowen. 

PEA  SUTTON'S  EARLY  GIANT. 
Few  of  the  newer  Peas  which  have  been  intro- 
duced of  late  years  have  become  so  popular  as 
the  one  illustrated,  viz  ,  Sutton's  Early  Giant, 
which  was  introduced  a  few  years  ago  and 
specially  recommended  for  glass  culture  for  its 
size  and  excellent  quality.  It  has  found  much 
favour  with  growers,  and  when  we  contrast  this 
splendid  Pea  with  the  small,  poor,  white,  round- 
seeded  Peas  grown  so  largely  some  thirty  or 
forty  years  ago,  it  will  be  seen  what  a  great 
improvement  has  been  made  in  this  vegetable, 
as  we  get  a  pod  equal  to  the  best  summer 
Marrowfats,  and  it  is  a  splendid  cropper.  I 
have  found  this  an  ideal  Pea  to  grow  under 
glass,  either  in  pots  or  sown  in  frames,  and  its 
good  habit  and  heavy  crop  make  it  doubly 
valuable. 

As  regards  glass  culture  this  note  is  not  now 
applicable,  but  in  many  gardens  an  early  Pea  is 
sown  for  late  supplies  ;  1  mean  seed  is  sown  in 
July,  and  for  this  purpose  Sutton's  Early  Giant 
is  most  valuable.  I  have  sown  this  variety  in 
early  August  and  had  good  crops  in  a  favourable 
autumn  well  into  November,  and  for  this  work 
I  do  not  think  there  is  a  more  profitable  variety. 
This  Pea  does  not  often  exceed  3J  feet,  and  may,  in 
oonsequence,  be  grown  much  closer  together  than 


PEA   SOITON  S   EABLY   GIANT. 


not  closely  packed  and  curled.  These,  when  at 
their  best,  bear  a  very  superficial  reminder  of 
Aquilegia  leaves,  of  whose  use  and  beauty  every- 
one is  aware.  The  stalks  are  long  and  firm  ;  the 
side-stalks  and  leaves  are  set  at  a  good  angle  and 
at  such  a  distance  apart  that  the  whole  has  a 
light,  graceful  efifect.  There  is  considerable 
variation  in  the  older  and  the  young,  small 
leaves,  both  in  colours  and  texture,  giving  a 
choice  for  admixture  with  different  classes  of 
flowera  in  a  cut  state,  and  as  foliage  in  water  it 
is  most  gratifying,  for  it  has  the  advantage  of 
lasting  sometimes  a  week  or  more.  The  best  for 
the  purpose  are  those  leaves  which  have  four 
opposite  pairs  of  side-stalks  narrowing  up  to  the 
tip,  which  ends  in  a  single  leaflet. 


the  taller  varieties.  At  the  same  time  avoid  crowd- 
ing, as  in  the  late  autumn  the  days  are  shorter,  and 
the  more  light  the  plants  receive  the  better. 

A  word  as  to  soils  and  earliest  crops  for  autumn 
supplies.  In  poor,  gravelly  soil  the  land  must 
be  well  enriched  with  manure,  and  I  always  found 
it  advisable  in  such  soil  to  sow  in  deep  drills  or 
shallow  trenches,  as  then  moisture  was  readily 
retained.  Of  course,  in  a  good,  deeply  dug  loamy 
soil  ordinary  culture  will  give  a  good  return. 

As  an  early  variety  to  sow  in  the  open  or  on  a 
sheltered  border  Early  Giant  is  most  reliable. 
From  seed  sown  on  a  warm,  sloping  border  in 
February  I  have  frequently  had  good  pods  in 
May,  and  it  soon  matures  when  the  pods  are 
formed.  G.  Wythes. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

FRUIT    NOTES. 

LAYERING  STRAWBERRIES.— In  my 
last  notes  some  general  hints  were 
given  as  to  the  propagation  of  this 
important  fruit,  and  it  is  now  pur- 
V  posed  to  glance  briefly  at  the  three 
systems  in  use  for  doing  so.  Actually 
it  is  not  a  question  of  three  systems  as  much  as 
it  is  of  variations  of  the  one,  since  whether  we 
layer  down  into  the  alleys,  small  pots  or  squares 
of  turf,  we  in  each  instance  use  the  runners  on 
the  strigs.  Taking  them  in  the  order  noted, 
nothing  can  be  said  against  the  working  down 
into  the  alleys,  provided  that  some  new  soil 
is  incorporated  with  the  old  and  that  water  is 
given  afterwards  according  to  necessity  to  keep 
the  soil  always  moist  and  thus  encourage  rapid 
rooting.  At  least  a  goodly  proportion  of  what- 
ever is  added  should  be  either  flaky  leaf-mould 
or  manure,  as  to  this  the  small  roots  will  cling 
with  considerable  tenacity,  and  enable  the 
grower  to  lift  the  plants  with  a  ball  of  soil 
attached  to  the  roots  when  the  time  for  trans- 
ference to  permanent  quarters  comes  along. 
This  is  of  paramount  importance,  as  will  be  seen 
at  once,  when  we  remember  that  Strawberries 
are  planted  when  the  soil  is  at  its  hottest  and 
driest  in  the  summer.  The  second  method,  in 
which  small  pots  play  an  essential  part,  is  adopted 
by  those  who  want  especially  fine  plants  for 
culture  in  pots,  and  by  others  who  produce 
plants  for  sale.  The  pots  are  filled  with  an  open 
compost,  and  then  plunged  practically  to  their 
rims  in  the  alleys  between  the  rows  of  plants,  and 
on  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  each  one  a  runner  is 
placed  and  kept  in  position  with  a  small  stone 
or  a  peg,  according  to  fancy.  As  long  as  re- 
potting can  be  done  immediately  the  young 
plants  are  ready  this  answers  admirably  ;  but 
should  that  operation  have  to  be  delayed  until 
the  roots  mat  hard  round  the  cool,  porous  sides 
of  the  pots,  there  will  be  a  check,  since  the 
roots  will  have  to  have  time  to  soften  again 
before  they  will  recommence  the  active  work  of 
food  imbibition.  Squares  of  turf  are  plunged, 
grass  side  downwards,  in  a  similar  manner  to 
small  pots  and  with  precisely  the  same  object — 
the  reduction  of  the  frequency  of  watering. 
The  runners  take  very  kindly  to  them,  and  the 
grower  has  the  advantage  of  knowing  that  if  he 
cannot  lift  and  pot  at  just  the  correct  moment, 
nothing  further  can  go  astray  than  that  the 
roots  will  pass  beyond  the  sides  of  the  turf  and 
get  into  the  surrounding  soil ;  it  is  an  excellent 
method,  and  might  be  far  more  generally  adopted 
by  those  who  require  especially  fine  plants 
and  have  the  necessary  turf  ready.  In  all 
cases  the  soil  must  be  kept  moist,  but  must 
not,  on  any  account,  be  made  sodden  by  excessive 
supplies. 

Summer  Pruning. — If  this  work  has  not  been 
put  in  hand  among  the  cordon  Currants  and 
Gooseberries,  there  must  not  be  any  further  delay, 
or  the  advantages  which  follow  upon  it  will  be 
substantially  reduced.  All  the  new  shoots,  with 
the  exception  of  the  leader,  should  be  reduced  to 
six  leaves  by  pinching  or  cutting,  according  to 
hardness  of  the  growths.  Subsequently  the 
buds  beneath  will  start,  and  it  is  necessary  that 
these  shall  be  promptly  pinched  to  two  leaves  as 
made,  or  the  plants  will  become  thickets  of  use- 
less spray.  The  benefits  are  that  light  and  air  are 
admitted  to  the  swelling  crops  and  to  the  buds 
at  the  base  of  the  spurs,  so  that  at  the  same 
time  as  the  fruits  of  the  present  season  improve 
materially,  the  foundation  for  a  good  crop  in  the 
following  year  is  being  surely  laid.  If  the  wark 
is  followed  up  closely  it  will  not  make  serious 
demands  upon  the  grower's  time,  and  the 
returns  secured  certainly  justify  the  steps  that 
are  taken. 

Insbcts  on  Wall  Tebbs.— It  is  most  im- 
portant that  the  cultivator  of  fruit  trees  on  walls 
shall  keep  a  sharp  look-out  at  this  season  of  the 


July  10,  1909. 


THE     GAEDEN. 


337 


year  for  the  various  insect  pests  which  visit  the 
plants,  and  do  an  immense  amount  of  injury  if 
allowed  to  multiply  unchecked.  Kill  all  that  are 
seen  immediately  and  little  trouble  will  arise. 
The  value  of  forcible  applications  of  cold  water 
through  a  hose  or  a  garden  engine  must  never 
be  overlooked  in  this  matter,  for  they  often 
save  the  necessity  of  having  recourse  to  an 
insecticide.  Fruit-grower. 


THE    GREENHOUSE 


NOTES     ON 

L.?5LTAS    AND 


ORCHIDS. 

Cattletas. 


M 


■  ANY  amateurs  possess  a  greenhouse 
or  glass  structure  where  they  try 
to  cultivate  a  miscellaneous  collec- 
tion of  plants,  only  to  meet  with 
a  small  measure  of  success.  Now 
such  a  house  could  be  utilised  to 
better  advantage  by  only  growing  a  few  genera, 
and  a  continual  supply  of  flowers  can  thus  be 
had,  the  quantity  depending  upon  the  size  of  the 
structure.  Where  such  a  desire  exists  and 
Orchids  are  chosen,  I  strongly  advise  a  selec- 
tion of  Lselias  and  Cattleyas,  with  some  of 
their  best  hybrids ;  or  devote  it  entirely  to 
Odontoglossums  and  other  cool  subjects.  1 
intend  to  refer  to  the  latter  section  at  a  future 
date,  and  for  the  present  confine  my  remarks  to 
Cattleyas  and  the  closely  allied  genus  Laelia. 
"  Cattleyas  are  the  stock  flowers  for  the  horti- 
cultural shows,"  wrote  the  late  Dr.  Smee  in 
"  My  Garden,"  a  rare  book  published  in  1872  ; 
and  where  amateurs  and  small  growers  arrange 
exhibits  at  their  local  flower  shows  a  few  Orchids 
in  the  centre  of  the  group  give  it  an  aristocratic- 
appearance  and  place  it  in  the  select  circle  af 
onoe.  Cattleyas  vary  slightly  in  size  and  habit ; 
the  gorgeous  blossoms  are  produced  from 
the  apex  of  the  pseudo-bulb  ;  and  by  making  a 
judicious  selection  the  flowering  period  can  be 
extended  over  the  whole  year. 

What  to  Grow. — The  most  popular  group  of 
Cattleyas  is  known  as  the  labiata  set.  They 
resemble  each  other  very  closely  regarding  the 
shape  and  size  of  the  flowers  ;  but  they  appear 
at  different  seasons,  and,  of  course,  the  colour 
varies,  although  mauve  is  predominant.  One  of 
the  best  in  this  section  is  C.  Trianae,  which  is  in 
flower  during  the  autumn  and  winter  months, 
followed  by  C.  Schroderae,  Mendelii,  Mossiae, 
with  its  beautiful  varieties  Wagneri  and 
reineckiana,  Warscewiozii  (gigas)  sanderiana, 
Warneri,  Rex,  dowiana,  aurea,  hardyana  and 
labiata.  Of  the  two-leaved  species  C.  bowringi- 
ana  and  Loddigesii  are  usually  grown,  and  the 
former  has  participated  in  the  creation  of  several 
hybrids,  which  are  almost  indispensable  for  an 
autnnm  display  ;  they  embrace  C.  Maritinii  and 
Mrs.  J.  W.  Whiteley.  Of  the  Laelias,  purpurata, 
crispa,  tenebrosa,  pumila,  cinnabarina  and 
xanthina  are  recommended.  They  have  been 
freely  intercrossed  with  the  Cattleyas,  and  the 
progeny  is  known  as  Lselio-Cattleya,  of  which  a 
splendid  race  is  in  existence,  such  as  L.-C. 
dominiana,  callistoglossum,  Fascinator  and 
numerous  others.  The  majority  are  of  easy  cul- 
ture and  may  be  purchased  for  a  modest  outlay. 

Cultural  Details. — The  type  of  house  generally 
set  apart  for  Orchids  is  one  with  a  span  roof 
ruQning  north  to  south,  having  both  top  and 
bottom  ventilators  and  away  from  the  shade  of 
trees  or  buildings  if  possible,  although  this  is 
not  absolutely  essential  when  due  regard  is  given 
to  artificial  shade.  A  suitable  temperature  is 
one  ranging  from  65°  to  70"  Fahr.  for  the 
summer  and  a  minimum  of  55°  Fahr.  during  the 
winter.  The  maximum  is  always  recorded  at 
midday  and  the  lowest  point  about  6  a.m. 
Regarding  light  and  shade,  the  latter  will  be 
necessary  whenever  the  weather  is  bright  from 
March  to  September  ;  but  this  must  not  be  over- 
done, as  Cattleyas  enjoy  plenty  of  light,  but  not 
direct  sunshine.      Ventilation  is  an   important 


factor  in  Orchid  culture,  but  attention  must  be 
paid  to  the  direction  of  the  wind,  opening  the 
ventilators  on  the  opposite  side  to  prevent  a 
draught  or  a  strong  current  of  air  passing  over 
the  inmates  of  the  house.  An  inch  or  so  from 
the  top  ventilators  is  very  beneficial  and  holds 
in  check  the  spot  disease,  while  it  renders  the 
interior  sweet  and  pure,  which  causes  luxuriant 
growth.  A  moist  and  buoyant  atmosphere 
(similar  to  that  produced  in  the  open  ground 
after  a  warm  shower  of  rain)  is  required,  and  to  j 
this  end  the  stages  and  floors  must  be  sprinkled 
with  water  several  times  each  day,  according  to 
the  season  of  the  year.  Throughout  the  summer 
a  light  spray  overhead  is  useful,  but  from 
September  to  March  it  should  cease  and  the 
damping  down  be  considerably  reduced. 

Soil  atid  Repotting. — For  general  purposes  the 
following  mixture  of  Osmunda  fibre  and  peat  to 


seven  years  and  have  succeeded  in  getting  some 
interesting  forms.  They  may  be  divided  into  : 
pannosum  (longifolium)  hybrids — 1,  Pale  Prim- 
rose, branching  habit,  5  feet  ;  2,  Apricot,  5  feet ; 
3,  Pink,  5  feet ;  4,  Ivanhoe,  5,  J.  M.  Burnie  and 
6,  Caldonia,  all  very  near  to  these  named  forms, 
but  raised  by  myself,  differing  slightly  as  to 
foliage.  These  are  all  from  pannosum  as  seed 
parent  crossed  with  phoenioeum.  Haenki  hybrids 
crossed  with  phcenieeum,  height,  3  feet — 1, 
Orange  ;  2,  Yellow  Ochre  ;  3,  Pink  ;  4,  Cream  ; 
foliage  Haenki,  but  3  and  i  of  very  similar  shades 
to  3,  4,  5  and  6  of  pannosum  hybrids.  Phceni- 
eeum crossed  with  pannosum,  2  feet  to  3  feet — 
1,  Cream ;  2,  Apricot ;  3,  Copper ;  4,  Dark 
Copper  ;  foliage  phosniceum,  only  rather 
thicker.  Phcenieeum  crossed  with  Weidmannii  ; 
various  shades,  violet  and  purple  up  to  copper. 
The  orange  forms  of  Haenki  hybrids  are  a  new 


ROSE   BOUQUET  D'oR  ON  THE  FIRST   ROSE  TERRACE   AT  BAYMAN   MANOR,  CHBSHAM        {See  page  SS9.) 


the  extent  of  two-thirds  and  chopped  sphagnum 
moss  one-third,  with  enough  crushed  crocks  and 
silver  sand  added  to  render  the  whole  porous, 
will  give  good  results.  Repotting  takes  place 
nearly  all  the  year  round,  but  large  specimens 
do  not  require  annual  disturbance  at  the  root ; 
in  fact,  if  proper  attention  is  given,  every  third 
season  will  be  ample.  The  pota  should  be  filled 
one-fourth  of  their  depth  with  drainage  and  the 
soil  pressed  moderately  firm,  while  on  no 
account  must  the  plant  be  elevated  above  the 
rim.  The  safest  time  to  repot  is  immediately 
roots  are  seen  issuing  from  the  base  of  the  last- 
made  pseudo-bulb  ;  they  appear  with  some 
species  at  the  commencement  of  growth,  and  with 
others  near  the  completion  of  the  bulb  ;  but  an 
observant  cultivator  will  make  no  mistake  in 
this  direction.  For  a  few  weeks  little  direct 
watering  is  needed  beyond  a  sprinkle  with  a  fine- 
rosed  water-pot  whenever  the  surface  becomes 
dry,  but  the  space  between  the  plants  must  be 
kept  moist  by  frequent  syringings.  As  the  plants 
finish  their  growth  a  rest  is  allowed,  but  the 
pseudo-bulbs  ought  not  to  shrivel  for  lack  of 
moisture  at  the  base.  Sentinel. 


colour  to  me,  as  are  forms  3  and  4.  The  forms 
I  1 ,  2  and  3  of  phcenieeum  crossed  with  pannosum 
hybrids  are  also  new  to  me.  I  have  also  some 
forma  of  phcenieeum  which  appear  to  have  some 
Celsia  oretioa  blood  in  them.  As  a  subscriber 
for  eight  years  I  thought  they  might  interest 
your  readers.  Some  of  the  varieties  were 
exhibited  by  me  at  Hanley  last  year  and  a  few 
at  Wolverhampton  and  Leicester." 


Rose  Fortune's  Yellow. 
We  thank  Lady  Menzies  for  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  Fortune's  Yellow  Rose.  It  is  rare 
to  hear  of  this  variety  flourishing  in  the  open 
air  so  far  north  as  Aberfeldy,  and  some  details  as 
to  the  position  and  soil  in  which  it  is  growing, 
also  mode  of  pruning,  would  be  interesting  to 
our  readers. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


Hybrid  Vbrbascums  i'ROM  Nuneaton. 
Mr.  Frank  Bouskell,  Market  Bosworth, 
Nuneaton,  sends  us  a  most  interesting  collection 
of  hybrid  Mulleins,  which  he  has  evidently 
taken  considerable  trouble  and  care  in  raising. 
He  writes  :  "I  enclose  some  specimens  of  Ver- 
bascum,  which  I  hope  will  reach  you  in  sufficient 
condition  to  see  the  colouring.  I  have  been 
growing  as  many  species  as  possible  for  the  last 


Wild  Orchids  from  Hants. 
Mr.  Edwin  Piatt,  The  Gardens,  Borden  Wood, 
Liphook,  Hants,  sends  us  flowers  of  Orchis 
maoulata,  which  are  most  welcome.  We  are 
very  pleased  to  find  these  wild  beauties  well 
looked  after,  as  too  often  the  roots  are  torn  up 
and  our  choicest  wild  flowers  thereby  extermi- 
nated. Mr.  Piatt  writes  :  "  We  are  sending  you 
a  few  flowers  of  one  of  our  native  Orchids, 
Orchis  maculata,  which  is  fairly  common ;  but  the 
delicate  marking  and  sympathetic  colouring  are, 
we  think,  very  charming.  The  gathered  speci- 
mens, pretty  though  they  may  be  for  your 
Table,  can,  unfortunately,  convey  little  of  their 
lovely  effect  when  in  a  mass  in  their  native 
element.  These  were  plucked  by  my  little 
daughter  in  the  meadow  of  a  friend,  and  her 
delight  was  unbounded  when  I  proposed  sending 
them  for  your  Table. " 


3:38 


THE     CiAKDKN 


[July  10,  1909. 


I 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

AN    OLD    MAN'S    GARDEN. 
Early  Sweet  Peas. 

1AM  old  enough  to  remember  the  Sweet 
Peas  in  my  father's  garden  sixty  years 
ago.  Sweet  Peas  were  then  just  Sweet 
Peas.  A  clump  stood  here,  another  there, 
each  composed  of  five  or  six  varieties  of 
uncertain  shades  of  white,  pink  and  blue. 
Names  were  unknown.  Now  you  may,  if 
patience  holds  out,  reckon  up  some  300  so-called 
varieties,  250  of  which  could  well  be  spared. 
The  fifty  which  remain  are  evidences  of  a  mar- 
vellous evolution,  and  well  merit  the  revolution 
in  popular  appreciation  of  this  charming  flower. 


think  that  of  all  the  Peas  sown,  either  in 
September  or  at  the  end  of  January,  ten  failed  to 
germinate  strongly.  Plants  from  ray  January 
sowing  in  the  open  ground  are  now  showing 
flower,  and  there  is  not  a  single  blank.  The 
most  delicate  varieties,  such  as  Frank  Dolby  and 
the  whites,  are  as  strong  as  the  rest.  My  large 
pots  at  the  time  of  writing  (June  14)  are  in 
magnificent  form,  and  I  send  a  box  of  bkioms  for 
your  acceptance.  You  will  find  among  my  seed- 
lings, some  of  which  are  fixed,  some  very  fine 
varieties,  notably  a  waved  Edward  VII.,  a 
waved  deep  rose  Spencer,  a  beautiful  waved 
mauve  from  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykea,  a  very 
ethereal  white,  also  from  Mrs.  H.  Sykes,  a  slightly 
tinted  white  from  Frank  Dolby,  &c.  Most  of 
the   varieties   are   throwing   four    flowers    to    a 


VlSCODNrESS   FOLKESTOKE^ON  THE   SECOND   ROSE  TBBRACE  AT   BATMAN 
(S«  page  SS9.) 


Though  the  far  side  of  three  score  years  and 
ten,  I  move,  in  this  respect,  with  the  times,  and 
should  find  my  garden  incomplete  without  their 
delicate  perfume  and  butterfly  blossoms.  I  grow 
some  early  ones  to  precede  the  summer  plants 
every  year,  and  so  begin  my  season  in  May. 
This  year  the  first  flower  opened  on  May  19,  and 
my  last  will  probably  be  gathered  in  October. 
Six  months  of  them  should  satisfy  anyone,  how- 
ever enthusiastic. 

My  first  sowing  for  flowers  this  season  was 
made  on  September  29  last  in  14-inch  pots. 
These  stood  out  of  doors  all  the  winter  under  the 
south  wall  of  my  house.  In  severe  frost  I  threw 
a  muslin  or  tiffany  curtain  over  them  at  night, 
but  they  will  stand  10°  of  frost  without  harm. 
I  always  save  my  own  seed,  adding  a  few  tested 
new  varieties  each  year.  This  season  St.  (ieorge, 
Evelyn  Hemus  and  Asta  Ohn  Spencer  are  the 
novelties  from  without.  I  sow  twenty  seeds  in 
a  pot  and  in  February  thin  out  to  ten.  Each  pot 
contains  two  well- contrasted  varieties.  The 
seedlings  in  their  youngest  stage  are  protected 
from  the  sparrows  by  wire-netting,  afterwards 
by  black  cotton.  For  two  seasons  I  have  treated 
the  seed  with  Nitro-Bacterine  culture  and  given 
them  one  watering  with  the  same  when  about 
6  inches  high.  I  must  say  that  I  am  quite 
persuaded  its  effects  are  most  remarkable  and 
beneficial.  I  have  never  had  such  full,  healthy 
crops,  both  of  culinary  and  decorative  Peas, 
before. 

I  notice  that  others  who  have  tried  it  have 
Bometimes  seen  no  such  effects.  I  cannot  help 
thinking  that  this  is  the  result  of  the  "  culture" 
being  improperly  prepared  or  applied.     I  do  not 


spike  ;  and,  curiously,  I  have  had  a  great  number 
of  single  flowers  with  double  standards  and 
wings  this  season,  though  there  is  only  one  calyx 
as  usual.  By  the  way,  to  go  from  Peas  to  Roses, 
what  a  grand  Rose  year  this  promises  to  be  ! 
Perhaps  later  I  may,  if  you  like,  send  a  few 
notes  on  our  queen.     [Do  please. — Ed.] 

Torijuay.  R.  W.  Beachey. 


THE    HARDY    PRIMULAS. 

(Continued  from  paye  314.) 
Primula  pyonoloba. — From  Western  Szeohuan, 
where  it  is  found  at  an  elevation  of  4,(M*0  to 
(i,(XH1  feet  in  dry,  warm  valleys  fully  exposed  to 
the  sun.  It  is  of  little  horticultural  value.  It  has 
a  tuft  of  leaves  resembling  those  of  P.  oboonica, 
and  small  yellowish  flowers  in  a  large  calyx. 

P.  Reidii,  a  plant  of  great  beauty  from  the 
Western  Himalayas,  is,  unfortunately,  difficult 
to  manage  on  low  elevations.  It  is  a  low- 
growing  plant  with  rosettes  of  leaves  covered 
with  silky  hairs  and  short  stems,  bearing  a  few 
lovely  ivory  white  drooping  flowers  of  good  size. 
It  is  necessary  to  grow  this  plant  in  a  frame, 
potted  in  porous  soil,  but  it  usually  dies  after 
flowering.  It  produces  seeds,  however,  which 
germinate  readily,  but  the  seedlings  require 
careful  attention  in  the  matter  of  shading  and 
watering,  a  little  neglect  causing  the  loss  of  the 
whole  batch. 

P.  reticulata,  also  from  the  Himalayas,  is 
a  rare  plant  in  cultivation  with  heart-shaped 
leaves.  I  have  not  seen  it  in  flower,  having  only 
seedlings  a  year  old.  They  are  doing  well  with 
similar  conditions  accorded  to  P.  sikkimensis. 


P.  roeea. — One  of  the  loveliest  of  our  early 
flowering  Primulas.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Western 
Himalayas,  and  was  first  introduced  from  Kashmir 
in  1879.  It  is  essentially  a  bog-loving  plant, 
although  it  may  also  be  grown  successfully  in  a 
moist,  shady  border.  One  of  the  easiest  of  plants 
to  cultivate,  it  is  a  true  perennial  and  will  last 
for  many  years,  forming  large  tufts  of  numerous 
rosettes,  covered  in  early  spring  with  lovely 
rose-coloured  flowers  in  umbels  of  six  or  more. 
Seeds  are  produced  freely,  and  self-sown  seedlings 
will  spring  up  in  suitable  places,  espeoially  on 
the  margins  of  water  where  the  roots  can  reach 
it.  Peaty  soil  suits  this  plant  well,  and  the 
tufts  may  be  divided  after  flowering  and  will 
soon  make  good-sized  plants.  There  is  a  selected 
form  with  larger  and  richer  coloured  flowers 
grown  under  the  name  of  P.  rosea  var.  grandi- 
nora.  It  is  a  most  useful  plant  for  growing  in 
pans  in  the  cold  house,  as  it  succeeds  well  when 
grown  in  a  north  frame  during  the  summer 
months.  It  should  be  potted  in  a  mixture  of 
peat  and  loam. 

P.  Ruabyi  is  a  rare  tufted  species  coming 
from  New  Mexico.  It  must  be  grown  in  a  frame, 
as  it  will  not  stand  the  winter  outside.  It  has 
long,  strap-shaped  leaves  and  handsome  rose- 
purple  flowers. 

P.  sihirica. — A  plant  rather  near  P.  involuorata 
with  smooth,  entire  leaves,  slightly  undulated  at 
the  margin.  The  flower-stems  are  about  3  inches 
high,  and  bear  from  three  to  five  rose-coloured 
flowers  in  April  or  May.  It  is  very  rare  in 
cultivation,  as  P.  farinosa  frequently  does  duty 
for  it.  A  bog  plant,  it  does  well  in  moist, 
spongy  soil  in  a  half-shady  position.  It  is  found 
widely  distributed  in  Siberia,  and  is  somewhat 
variable  in  habit. 

P.  aikkimeiisis.  — A  handsome  Himalayan  Prim- 
rose that  extends  into  Western  China,  and  is 
usually  found  in  very  moist  situations.  Although 
it  always  dies  after  flowering,  this  species  is 
well  worth  growing  on  account  of  its  elegant 
habit  and  free-flowering  qualities.  It  is  readily 
raised  from  seeds,  which,  when  fresh,  germinate 
freely.  The  seedlings  are  best  sown  in  pots  in  a 
frame  in  a  mixture  of  loam,  leaf-soil  and  sand 
until  they  are  large  enough  to  plant  out  where 
they  are  to  flower.  When  planting  out,  a  cool, 
moist  and  shady  position  should  be  selected  for 
them  where  they  would  never  become  dry. 
They  will  grow  luxuriantly  in  rich,  deep  soil  by 
the  margin  of  water,  producing  stems  between 
2  feet  and  3  feet  high,  bearing  umbels  of  droop- 
ing pale  yellow  flowers  of  good  size  and  great 
beauty. 

P.  spectabilis.  —  A  pretty  species  from  the 
Southern  Alps  of  the  Tyrol,  near  P.  olusiana  and 
P.  glaucescens,  from  which  it  is  distinguished 
by  its  bright  green  viscous  leaves,  dotted  and 
margined  with  white,  and  other  minor  oharacters. 
Its  large  violet  carmine  flowers  are  produced  in 
April  and  May.  It  is  of  easy  culture  under  the 
same  conditions  as  those  given  to  the  two  species 
mentioned  in  calcareous  soil. 

P.  Stuart  ii. — A  somewhat  rare  Himalayan 
species  of  robust  habit,  growing  nearly  IS  inches 
high  when  planted  in  rich,  moist  soil  in  a  shady 
position.  The  leaves  are  large,  often  9  inches 
long,  bright  green  on  the  top  and  mealy  on  the 
under-surface.  The  golden  yellow  flowers  are 
produced  in  umbels.  This  species  and  its 
variety  purpurea,  with  rich  purple  flowers, 
are  among  the  most  difficult  of  Primulas 
to  keep.  Although  seeds  frequently  germinate 
well,  the  seedlings  are  apt  to  damp  off 
during  the  winter.  They  are  best  kept  in  a 
frame  till  the  second  season,  when  they  usually 
flow  er. 

P.  8u[f'ruticosa. — A  very  distinct  shrub-like 
species  from  the  alpine  regions  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  in  California,  forming  small  tufts  on 
woody  stems.  The  leaves  are  narrow  and  spatu- 
late,  toothed  at  the  end.  The  rose-purple  flowers 
are  borne  on  stems  3  inches  or  4  inches  high  in  May. 
It  likes  a  warm,  sheltered  place  in  the  rock  garden, 
planted  in  firm,  stony  soil ;    it  also  requires  the 


July  10,  1909. 


THE     GAKDEN. 


339 


protection  of  a  piece  of  glass  in  winter.     May  be 
easily  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings. 

P.  tangutica.  — •  A  curious  species  from  the 
borders  of  China  and  Tibet,  where  it  is  said  to 
inhabit  open  grassy  spaces  at  11,000  feet  and 
13,000  feet  elevation.  The  small  chocolate- 
coloured  flowers  are  sweet-scented,  and  are  pro- 
duced in  successive  whorls.  It  has  recently  been 
introduced  by  Messrs.  Veitch. 

P.  Veitehii  is  a  fine  hardy  species  introduced 
from  Western  China  by  Messrs.  Veitch  through 
Mr.  Wilson.  It  there  occurs  at  8,000  feet  and 
10,000  feet  elevation  on  cliffs  and  dry  banks, 
approaching  the  well-known  P.  oortusoides  in 
foliage  and  habit.  It  is,  however,  of  more 
robust  growth,  and  bears  larger  flowers  of  a 
deep  rose  colour,  with  an  orange  ring  at  the 
mouth  of  the  tube.  It  grows  well  in  loamy  soil, 
and  may  be  increased  readily  by  division  of  the 
root. 

P.  villosa.  — A  native  of  the  granitic  Alps 
of  Styria  and  Carinthia,  this  species  closely 
resembles  P.  hirsuta  and  P.  viscosa,  but 
the  leaves  are  narrower  and  less  toothed.  It 
is  also  distinguished  by  the  glandular  brown 
hairs  with  which  it  is  covered.  It  likes  a 
rocky  fissure  in  half  sun,  flowering  in  April 
or  May.  P.  v.  var.  oommutata  is  a  rare  variety 
from  Styria. 

P.  viscosa. — A  variable  plant  that  is  found  in 
abundance  on  the  Alps  and  Pyrenees.  It  is  one 
of  the  easiest  to  grow,  and  some  of  the  varieties 
are  among  the  most  showy.  Generally  found 
growing  on  granitic  rocks,  it  objects  to  lime  in 
any  quantity,  and  should  be  planted  in  gritty 
soil  or  tightly  wedged  between  pieces  of  sand- 
stone. The  flowers  vary  from  deep  purple  to 
white. 

(To  he  continued.) 


OXALIS   ENNEAPHYLLA. 

This  beautiful  plant  from  the  Falkland  Islands 
will  always  be  counted  among  the  choicest  of 
subjects  for  the  rook  garden.  It  was  introduced 
to  gardens  over  thirty  years  ago,  and  it  is  worth 
going  some  distance  to  see  a  well-flowered 
clump.  Well-grown  specimens  are  not  quite  so 
frequent  an  occurrence  as  one  would  like,  as  in 
many  gardens  it  is  regarded  as  a  most  capricious 
subject.  For  this  reason  one  hesitates  to  advise 
amateurs  with  small  gardens  to  grow  it,  yet 
under  such  conditions  I  made  the  acquaintance 
of  a  splendid  specimen  growing  upon  a  tiny  rook 
garden  in  a  provincial  town. 

The  plant  is  dwarf,  the  rootstock  being  in 
the  form  of  an  elongated  scaly  bulb,  from 
which  are  produced  innumerable  glaucous  green 
leaves  set  at  right  angles  upon  very  slender 
pink  stems.  The  foliage  is  extremely  pretty 
and  most  interesting,  each  leaf  being  quite 
suggestive  of  a  tiny  propeller.  The  leaflets 
are  wedge  shape  and  in  pairs,  joined  along  one 
margin,  the  other  being  free. 

The  flowers  are  white  with  a  deep  purple  stain 
at  the  base  of  each  petal,  and  are  carried  upon 
slender  stems  similar  to  those  supporting  the 
leaves.  The  flowers  appear  in  June,  and  are 
effective  for  the  greater  part  of  the  month ; 
nestling  among  those  orinkled  leaves  they  appear 
like  chalices,  pure  and  refined,  features  that 
wherever  they  occur  in  unison  never  fail  in  their 
appeal  to  lovers  of  hardy  flowers.  Oxalis  ennea- 
phylla  succeeds  in  a  cool,  sandy  soil  free  from 
calcareous  matter ;  the  vegetative  growth  is 
generally  satisfactory  in  positions  lightly  shaded, 
but  the  flowers  come  most  generously  from  plants 
grown  in  the  open  and  in  positions  exposed  to  a 
fair  amount  of  sun.  A  cool  rooting  medium  and 
abundant  sunshine  for  the  leaves  and  flowers  are 
the  principal  things  needed  for  the  successful 
cultivation  of  this  charming  subject.  The 
illustration  represents  a  specimen  that  flowered 
this  year  in  the  garden  of  F.  W.  Bennett, 
Esq.,  Elmhurst,  Louth,  Lincolnshire.  When 
at  its  best  the  clump  carried  over  three  dozen 
flowers.  T.  Smith. 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN, 


ROSES  VISCOUNTESS   FOLKESTONE 
AND    BOUQUET    D'OR. 

THE  two  illustrations  of  the  above  Roses 
which  appear  on  pages  337  and  338 
are  from  photographs  sent  to  us  by 
Lady  Susan  Trueman,  and  depict 
these  beautiful  Roses  growing  on 
the  Rose  terrace  at  Bayman  Manor, 
Chesham,  Bucks.  The  photographs  were  taken 
in  June,  1908,  when  these  Roses  were  in  their 
full  beauty.  The  value  of  these  kinds  for 
planting  against  open  walls  to  form  a  sort  of 
cascade  of  bloom  is  amply  demonstrated,  and  the 
illustrations  will,  we  hope,  be  the  means  of 
inducing  others  to  plant  these  Roses  in  the 
same  way. 


SOME     GOOD    GARDEN     ROSES. 

The  Chinese  and  Hybrid  Boitreons. 
The  present  generation  of  Rose-growers  know 
little  of  an  almost  extinct  group  called  the 
Hybrid  Chinese  and  Hybrid  Bourbon,  but  those 
who  can  recall  them  will  agree  with  me  that  we 
have  nothing,  even  to-day,  that  will  produce 
a  more  glorious  display  of  bloom  for  the  time 
they  remain  in  flower.  I  allude  to  such  fine 
sorts  as  Charles  Lawson,  CheniSdoliS,  Juno,  Paul 
Perras,  Vivid,  Fulgens,  Blairii  No.  2,  William 
Jesse,  Mme.  Plantier,  Coupe  d'Heb(5,  &c.     What 


not  lose  them  from  our  gardens,  and  no  one 
would  ever  regret  securing  some  standards  of 
these  showy  Roses.  Not  only  are  they  effective 
on  stems,  but  they  make  ideal  pillar  Roses.  By 
planting  three  plants  in  the  form  of  a  tripod 
one  is  assured  of  a  really  grand  specimen.  I 
would  recommend  anyone  to  obtain  these  Roses 
on  their  own  roots.  They  are  far  more  successful, 
as  are  all  these  old-fashioned  Roses,  than  when 
budded,  even  though  one  may  obtain  at  first  a 
plant  three  times  larger.  Why  does  not  the 
National  Rose  Society  try  and  awaken  interest 
in  old  Roses  by  offering  prizes  for  collections  of 
them  ?  I  believe  if  someone  would  cultivate  the 
Hybrid  Chinese  as  carefully  as  the  present-day 
show  Roses  are  cultivated,  and  were  to  put  up 
a  group  of  them,  they  would  cause  no  mild  sensa- 
tion, because  it  is  possible  to  obtain  quite  huge 
blooms  by  careful  disbudding  and  feeding.     P. 


TOO  MUCH  RAMBLER. 
StJRBLY  it  is  time  to  cry  "  Halt !"  when  we  find  a 
list  in  the  "Rose  Annual  for  1909"  giving 
names  of  eighty-eight  varieties  of  Rosa  wichurai- 
ana.  How  can  we  find  places  for  them  all? 
Moreover,  scores  of  them  are  not  worth  it  if  we 
could.  With  these  Roses,  which  are  as  freely 
produced  as  Sweet  Peas,  raisers  would  do  well 
to  use  some  discretion  and  not  launch  out  a 
novelty  because  it  is  pretty  ;  but  first  let  them 
ask  themselves  if  it  is  wanted  or  does  it  surpass 
an  existing  kind.  I  take  it  that  one  reason  we 
plant  a  rambler  Rose  is  to  be  effective  ;  but  this 


OXALIS  ENNEAPHYLLA   IN   A   LINCOLNSHIRE    GARDEN. 


glorious  free-headed  standards  one  used  to  see 
of  these  Roses,  laden  with  a  wealth  of  fragrant 
blooms  that  were  typical  of  what  a  standard 
Rose  should  be  !  And  who  can  forget  the  huge 
pot-grown  specimens  of  Charles  Lawson,  Juno, 
&c. ,  which  Mr.  Charles  Turner  and  Messrs. 
Paul  and  Son  used  toexhibit  at  Soilth Kensington, 
Manchester  and  other  places  '.  Why,  the  blooms 
used  to  be  so  thick  upon  the  plants  that  there 
was  scarcely  space  for  the  foliage.  Although  I 
have  no  desire  to  decry  our  present-day  groups 
of  pot  Roses,  I  maintain  there  was  real  skill 
displayed  in  the  growing  and  developing  of  these 
monsters  by  the  brothers  Gater,  which  probably 
we  may  never  see  again  ;  but  it  these  Roses  have 
gone  from  our  pot  Rose  shows,  surely  we  need 


cannot  be  said  of  some  of  the  varieties  in  the^list 
named,  although  the  buds  and  blooms  arei 
individually  pretty.  In  my  opinion  the 
Dorothy  Perkins  type,  in  other  colours,  is  the 
one  to  emulate,  and  if  these  can  be  obtained  in 
maroons,  reds  and  yellows,  so  much  the  better  for 
our  gardens.  I  am  glad  The  Garden  did  not 
lend  itself  to  the  sensational  style  of  some  of  the 
daily  papers  over  the  "  Blue  Rambler"  recently 
exhibited.  As  shown  it  was  a  very  poor 
thing  ;  but  it  is  not  fair  to  any  rambler  Rose  to 
exhibit  it  upon  indoor  plants,  because  the  colours 
are  vastly  different  outdoors.  I  remember  this 
was  the  ease  when  Lady  Gay  first  came  out. 
Grown  inside  it  is  a  soft  pink,  outdoors  nearly 
red.  Rosa. 


340 


THE     GAliDEN. 


(July  10,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WKEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Up  to  the  present 
spring-sown  Sweet  Peas  have  been 
behaving  very  badly  indeed,  the  heavy 
rains  and  cold  weather  experienced  at 
the  end  of  June  having  a  very  serious 
eflFect  on  the  plants.  Bud-dropping 
has  been  more  prevalent  than  ever,  but  the 
plants  are  now  recovering  and  some  good  blooms 
are  being  produced.  Those  beginners  who  have 
to  pack  for  market  or  exhibition  should  take  care 
that  the  flowers  are  dry  at  the  time  of  packing, 
otherwise  they  will  arrive  at  their  destination  in 
a  spotted  and  ruined  condition.  Seedlings  of 
such  plants  as  Wallflowers,  Canterbury  Bells, 
Columbines  and  other  biennials  and  perennials 
that  were  sown  as  advised  a  few  weeks  ago  are 
now  growing  rapidly  and  will  soon  be  large 
enough  for  pricking  out.  In  the  meantime  all 
weeds  must  be  kept  down,  otherwise  the  young 
plants  will  be  partially  or  wholly  choked. 
Violet  plants  at  this  season  frequently  suffer 
very  much  from  attacks  of  red  spider,  a  tiny 
pest  that  feeds  chiefly  on  the  undersides  of  the 
leaves,  particularly  during  a  prolonged  spell  of 
dry  weather.  Its  attacks  can  be  best  prevented 
by  thoroughly  watering  the  plants  at  frequent 
intervals  and  well  spraying  the  foliage,  particu- 
larly the  under-sides,  with  clear  water  every 
afternoon. 

Vegetable  Oarden.  —  Runner  Beans  are  at 
present  growing  very  rapidly,  and  already  a  few 
flower-buds  are  visible  on  the  earliest-sown  rows 
and  those  planted  out  from  pots.  During  dry 
weather  these  plants  must  be  given  copious 
supplies  of  water,  otherwise  the  buds  will  drop 
just  before  or  as  soon  as  they  open  and  no  pods 
will  set.  In  the  North  of  England  and  in 
Scotland  the  first  sowing  of  Cabbages  for  spring 


I THE    WSONO     WAY    TO    STAKE    AND    TIB    A 

PLANT.      NOTE   HO Wj UGLY   IT   LOOKS  COM- 
PARED WITH   no.    2. 


use  may  be  made  ;  but  in  the  South  it  will  be 
well  to  wait  another  week  or  two.  Choose  a 
reliable  variety,  preferably  one  that  is  known 
to  do  well  in  the  locality,  and  scatter  the  seed 
thinly  on  a  well-prepared  and  finely  raked  seed- 
bed in  the  open.  It  is  almost  certain  that 
frequent  waterings  will  be  needed  to  induce  the 
seeds  to  germinate,  and  when  the  seedlings 
appear  care  will  be  needed  to  ward  off  attacks 
of  the  flea  beetle,  a  small  black  beetle  with 
highly  developed  jumping  powers  and  which  eats 
the  young  seed  leaves  quite  away.  Dusting  the 
seedlings  when  damp  with  fine  coal-ashes  or 
even  finely  sifted  dry  soil  is  the  best  preventive 
as  yet  known. 

Fruit  Oarden.  —Push  on  the  work  of  layering 
Strawberries,  as  the  sooner  this  can  be  done  the 
better  will  be  the  crop  produced  by  the  young 
plants  next  year.  For  particulars  see  page  316 
in  the  issue  for  June  26.  Where  Apples  have  set 
thickly,  no  time  should  be  lost  in  removing  the 
worst  shaped  and  most  badly  placed  specimens, 
as  the  sooner  they  are  off  now  the  better.  It 
needs  a  stout  heart,  especially  in  a  beginner,  to 
remove  fruit  prematurely  ;  but  the  Apples  left 
and  also  the  tree  will  benefit  considerably  if  this 
is  done  early.  Grapes  in  ordinary  houses  will 
now  be  stoning,  and  more  air  should  be  admitted 
at  this  period,  taking  care,  however,  to  avoid 
extreme  draughts.  Ventilation,  too,  must  be 
afforded  early  in  the  morning  before  the  sun  gets 
very  powerful,  otherwise  scalding  of  the  fruit 
and  foliage  will  result. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — The  old-fashioned 
large-flowered  Pelargoniums  so  beloved  by  our 
forefathers  are  not  now  so  extensively  grown  as 
they  were  some  years  ago,  yet  one  frequently 
finds  a  few  plants  in  the  greenhouse  of  the 
amateur,  who  usually  has  a  simple  way  of 
treating  the  plants  with  good  results.  As  they 
go  out  of  bloom  the  plants  should  be  stood 
outdoors  in  a  sunny  position  to  enable  the  wood 
to  become  thoroughly  ripened.  The  water  supply 
must  also  be  lessened  gradually,  so  as  to  induce  the 
plants  to  go  to  a  well-earned  rest.  If  it  is  desired 
to  increase  the  stock,  cuttings  may  be  taken  off 
now,  these  being  made  from  young  shoots  and 
inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil  and  stood  in  a  cool 
aomer  of  the  greenhouse,  where  they  will 
[uickly  root.  Where  green  fly  or  other  insect 
pests  are  present,  the  house  should  be  fumigated 
twice,  allowing  a  week  between  the  two  opera- 
tions ;  then  any  insects  that  hatch  out  after  the 
first  treatment  will  be  killed  by  the  second.  I 
have  found  West's  W-e-o-n  excellent  for  the 
purpose,  and,  in  addition,  it  has  the  advantage 
.jf  being  applicable  and  effective  as  an  inseoti- 
i3ide  as  well  as  a  fumigant.  H. 


THE    RIGHT    AND    WRONG    WAY    OF. 
STAKING    PLANTS. 

One  of  the  first  things  that  the  beginner  in 
gardening  who  attempts  the  culture  of  perennial 
herbaceous  plants  learns  is  that  they  need  some 
artificial  support  to  prevent  their  shoots  being 
blown  about  and  badly  damaged  by  wind,  a 
condition  that  fluickly  results  where  the  wind  is 
accompanied  by  heavy  rains.  Having  ascertained 
this,  the  novice  usually  looks  about  for  ways  and 
means  of  providing  this  support,  and  the  natural 
and  most  simple  way  out  of  the  trouble  is  to 
push  a  large  stake  into  the  centre  of  the  group, 
and  then  tightly  tie  all  the  growths  to  it  the 
same  as  may  be  seen  in  Fig.  1.  By  the  end  of 
the  season,  however,  the  grower  will  not  feel  at 
all  satisfied  with  the  result  of  his  labours — that  is 
if  he  is  imbued  with  the  true  gardening  spirit. 


He  will  find  that  the  leaves  that  were  thus 
crowded  up  in  the  centre  of  the  clump  are  all 
dead  and  decayed,  and  what  flowers  are  pro- 
duced will  be  of  a  very  inferior  character. 

Apart  from  this,  there  is  the  appearance  of  the 
plant  to  consider.  The  plant  treated  in  tne 
barbarous  manner  shown  in  Fig.  1  is  one  of  the 
Golden  Rods,  and  naturally  a  spreading,  free- 
growing  specimen  capable  of  developing  into  a 
mass  of  gold  in  the  autumn.  Instead  of  tying 
it  up  as  shown  in  the  first  illustration,  the 
beginner  should  deal  with  it  as  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
which  represents  the  same  plant  properly  staked 
and  tied.  It  will  be  noticed  that  each  shoot 
stands  out  well  by  itself  and  that  the  stakes  used 
are  scarcely  visible,  one  being  placed  at  the  inner 


2. — THB^  RIGHT  WAY  TO  STAKE  AND  TIE  A 
PLANT.  BESIDES  HAVING  A  BETTER  AND 
MORE  NATURAL  APPEARANCE  THE  SHOOTS 
HAVE  BOOM  TO   DEVELOP   PROPERLY. 

s.de  of  each  shoot,  which  is  in  turn  securely  but 
not  too  tightly  tied  to  it  with  soft  garden  twine, 
Raflfiatape  or  raffia.  Treated  in  this  way,  each 
shoot  has  an  opportunity  of  developing  a  fine 
head  of  flowers  and  retaining  all  its  foliage  in  a 
healthy  green  state.  Very  little  more  time  was 
taken  in  staking  9.nd  tying  the  plant  as  shown 
in  Fig.  2  than  was  required  to  do  it  in  the 
manner  shown  in  Fig.  1,  and  a  comparison  of  the 
two  should  firmly  convince  every  beginner 
in  gardening  that  Fig.  2  is  better  in  every 
respect. 


CHINESE  PRIMULAS,   CINERARIAS  AND 

CALCEOLARIAS. 
I  DO  not  intend  to  deal  with  the  cultivation  of 
these  plants  in  detail,  but  to  refer  to  the  chief 
points  only  and  give  some  hints  that  will  prove 
useful  to  beginners.  I  shall  never  forget,  when 
quite  a  youth,  inspecting  some  beautiful  Calceo- 
laria plants  grown  by  an  amateur  in  his  brick 
frame.  The  frame  in  question  was  a  deep  one, 
but  well  filled  with  a  hot-bed  that  had  been  used 
for    propagating    in   the    spring-time.     On   this 


July  10,  1909.) 


THE     GARDEN 


341 


3. — A   DAHLIA    PLANT    THAT    NEEDS    THINNI.Ni; 
CONSIDERABLY. 

cooled  bed  the  amateur  placed  his  pots  contain- 
ing the  Calceolarias,  and  the  latter  did  remarkably 
well.  Perhaps  some  of  The  Garden  readers  have 
old  hot-beds  in  frames,  and  if  they  do  nob  wish 
to  use  the  manure  immediately  a  better  position 
could  not  be  found  for  the  young  plants  of 
Calceolarias  and  Cinerarias. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  attempt  to  grow  these  plants 
in  a  greenhouse  during  the  summer  months  on 
account  of  the  dry  atmosphere.  There  is  always 
a  certain  amount  of  moisture  in  the  frame  in 
which  there  is  an  old  hot-bed,  and  it  is  most 
beneficial  to  the  young  plants.  The  glaes  at  this 
season  must  be  lightly  shaded.  For  this  purpose 
a  small  quantity  of  whiting  put  in  buttermilk 
and  made  to  the  consistency  of  thin  paint  will 
answer  the  purpose  if  put  on  with  a  paint-brush 
or  a  piece  of  soft  cloth.  If  possible,  the  frame 
should  face  the  north  or  north-east.     For 

Primulas  the  frame  should  face  west  or  south- 
west. The  temperature  must  be  maintained  a 
little  higher  than  in  the  case  of  Calceolarias  and 
Cinerarias.  In  summer-time  the  two  last  named 
cannot  be  kept  too  cool,  but  the  Primulas  like 
more  heat,  though  not  full  exposure  to  the  sun- 
shine. Moisture  in  moderation  is  also  essential 
and  free  ventilation. 

Repotting. — For  each  kind  some  old  mortar 
rubble  may  be  mixed  with  the  compost,  but  more 
with  that  intended  for  the  Primulas  than  for  the 
others.  The  other  ingredients  must  consist  of 
fibrous  loam,  leaf-soil  and  well-rotted  manure, 
more  loam  being  used  for  the  Calceolarias  and 
Cinerarias  than  for  the  Primulas.  In  every 
case  the  soil  must  be  rather  light  and  thoroughly 
porous,  coarse  silver  sand  or  some  road  drift 
being  suitable  for  mixing  with  the  loam  and 
leaf-mould.  In  hot  weather  examine  the  plants 
three  times  each  day,  and  only  water  those  that 
require  it.  It  is  a  mistake  to  give  water  when 
the  soil  is  moist,  and  equally  wrong  to  allow  it 
to  get  dust  dry.  Shamrock. 

THINNING  DAHLIA  SHOOTS. 
Where  Dahlia  plants  are  bought  from  nursery- 
men in  the  early  summer,  there  is  usually  no 
need  to  thin  the  she  ots,  as  the  plant  itself 
will  consist  of  one  main  stem  only,  which  will  in 
due  course  branch  out  and  form  a  bushy 
specimen.  But  many  amateurs  keep  the  old 
stools  or  roots  over  the  winter,  and  if  any  large 
increase  of  the  stock  is  not  desired,  simply  pull 
each  into  two  or  three  pieces  in  the  spring,  or 
sometimes  leave  the  clump  of  tubers  intact,  and 
plant  them  thus  in  the  month  of  April. 

That  good  results  ean  be  obtained  from  such  a 
ystem  the  writer  has  testified  ;  but  it  is  certain 


that  a  vigorous  clump,'or  even  a  portion  of  one, 
will  produce  far  more  shoots  than  are  needed, 
and  consequently  the  grower,  if  he  desires 
blooms  of  good  quality,  must  carry  out  this 
work  without  delay.  In  Fig.  3  a  plant  with 
numerous  growths  is  shown.  In  this  instance 
the  clump  of  tubers  was  planted  intact,  and  it 
will  be  seen  that  a  mass  of  growths,  many  of 
them  weak,  is  the  result.  With  a  sharp  knife 
all  the  smallest  and  worst  placed  of  the  shoots 
should  be  cut  away  just  below  the  level  of  th« 
soil,  retaining  about  three  of  the  strongest  and 
best  placed.  In  Fig.  4  the  same  plant  ia  shown 
after  thinning  has  been  carried  out,  and  it  will 
be  seen  that  three  stout  shoots,  placed  at  nearly 
equal  distances  apart,  have  been  retained. 
These  will  form  a  strong,  bushy  specimen  by  the 
autumn,  and  will  be  capable  of  producing  flowers 
of  first-class  quality.  Of  course,  each  shoot  will 
need  the  support  of  a  stout  stake,  and  in  thrusting 
these  into  the  ground  they  must  be  placed  so  that 
the  tubers  in  the  soil  are  not  injured. 

AUTUMN  CAULIFLOWERS. 
A  GOOD  stock  of  Cauliflowers  in  the  autumn  is 
most  useful  and  saves  undue  inroads  being  made 
in  the  stock  of  winter  greens.  I  find  that  many 
inexperienced  cultivators  make  one  of  two 
mistakes,  sometimes  they  make  both,  namely, 
have  a  big  batch  of  plants  that  are  put  out  too 
late  to  be  of  use,  and  also  another  batch  which 
"turns  in"  too  early,  when  other  vegetables  are 
fairly  abundant.  Now,  the  best  plan  is  to  put 
out  at  once  a  number  of  plants,  such  as  those  of 
Veitch's  Autumn  Giant,  and  also  a  batch  of  one 
or  two  varieties  which  earlj  come  to  maturity — 
a  fit  condition  to  use. 

Early  London  and  Magnum  Bonum  are  both 
suitable  and  do  not  require  a  lot  of  space  to 
grow  in,  though  the  Autumn  Giant  variety  does. 
In  no  case  must  very  poor  plants  be  put  out,  nor 
those  raised  rather  late  ;  then  the  period  from 
October  to  Christmas  will  be  duly  provided  for. 
Cauliflowers  are  more  tender  than  Broccoli,  and 
should  not  be  relied  upon  after  Christmae. 
Frosts,  as  a  general  rule,  before  that  date  are 
not  very  severe,  and  a  few  leaves  broken  over 
the  flowers  are  generally  suflicient  protection. 
As  the  plants  are  not  put  out  to  withstand  the 
winter  weather,  good  cultivation  must  be  the 
rule,  so  as  to  obtain  fine  plants  and  beautiful 
plump  heads  or  flowers.  Shamrock. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 

Seeds  to  Sow  Now. — Much  interest  and  care  is 
taken  in  the  raising  of  seedlings  earlier  in  the 
spring  for  obtaining  a  fine  display  of  blossom 
from  the  resultant  plants  as  early  as  possible  in 
the  year.  This  is  a  quite  natural  thing  to  do  ; 
but  amateurs  in  towns  do  not  often  think  about 
making  later  or  second  sowings,  with  the  object 
of  avoiding  having  bare  borders  in  the  autumn. 
In  town  gardens  many  kinds  of  plants  are  not  as 
long-lived  as  they  are  in  the  country,  because 
the  conditions  under  which  they  grow  are  more 
trying.  Some  seeds  of  the  following  plants 
would  only  cost  a  few  pence,  the  labour 
necessary  in  raising  the  young  plants  would  not 
be  at  all  great,  and  the  results  would  more  than 
justify  it.  Phlox  Drummondii  and  China  Asters 
may  be  raised  in  boxes  and  transplanted  in  due 
course,  afterwards  being  put  out  in  borders  to 
give  the  coveted  late  display  of  blossom.  In 
addition  to  the  above,  seeds  of  Mignonette, 
Clarkias,  Collinsias,  Night-ecented  Stock  and 
Virginia  Stock  may  be  sown  in  the  borders  in 
which  the  resultant  plants  are  required  to  bloom. 
If  whole  borders  are  not  available  for  the 
purpose,  perhaps  there  are  odd  corners  in  them 
and  other  positions  which  can  be  so  utilised  with 
very  satisfactory  results.  In  all  instances  early 
thinning-out  of  the  seedlings  is  a  very  important 
point,  because  they  will,  if  at  all  overcrowded, 
spoil  sooner  than  early,  spring-raised  seedlings. 


Weeds  Among  Seedlings.  —  The  soil  has 
become  very  warm,  and  the  recent  very  acceptable 
rains  hav»  resulted  in  the  rapid  growth  of  all 
young  plants,  including  the  weeds.  As  a  rule, 
the  latter  get  ahead  of  the  former,  and  so  the 
cultivator  must  be  on  the  watch  and  spend  some 
time  every  week  in  pulling  out  weeds  by  hand 
from  the  seedling  beds,  using  the  Dutch  hoe 
freely  in  any  open  quarters.  It  is  really 
wonderful  how  rapidly  young  plants  will  grow 
after  the  weeds  have  been  pulled  out.  The 
latter  extract  much  good  food  from  the  soil  and 
thus  rob  the  border  plants  ;  the  pulling  up  of  the 
weeds  loosens  the  soil,  and  this,  if  not  too  severe, 
admits  air  and  moisture,  causing  a  more  robust 
growth  of  the  seedlings.  Furthermore,  the  town 
gardener  has  a  grand  opportunity  now  to  lessen 
the  number  of  weeds  finally  by  getting  rid  of 
them  while  small,  thus  preventing  them  seeding 
and  causing  trouble  later  on.  There  is  a  plant, 
which  many  readers  of  The  Garden  will  know 
quite  well,  called  "Mother  of  Thousands."  It  is 
a  useful  and  grasefal  plant  for  hanging  baskets 
and  pots  ;  but  I  think  that  many  kinds  of  our 
common  garden  weeds  may  truthfully  be  given 
the  title  of  "  Mothers  of  Thousands"  too. 

Notes  to  be  Taken  Now.  —  The  town 
gardener  ought  to  put  down  many  notes  at  the 
present  time  of  successes  and  failures  experienced 
during  the  past  spring,  and  also  of  different 
kinds  et  plants  that  are  doing  well  now.  There 
are  few  kinds  of  climbing  plants,  for  instance, 
that  surpass,  for  town  gardens,  Clematis 
montana.  Rose  Carmine  Pillar  blooms  with  it, 
and  the  two  in  conjunction  make  a  very  charming 
display.  It  does  not  take  a  very  long  time  to 
get  both  kinds  of  plants  established,  and  as 
they  are  strong  growers  they  quickly  cover  a 
very  large  space,  and  are  especially  suitable  for 
covering  buildings,  pergolas,  arbours  and  fences. 

Salads. — The  season  has  now  come  when  all 
kinds  of  salad  plants  are  very  much  appreciated. 
There  are  a  few  kinds  that  may  be  grown  in 
very  small  gardens  ;  only  a  tiny  border  is  needed 
for  them,  as  small  sowings  will  suffice  to  give  a 
fairly  good  supply  of  fresh  plants.  Lettuces 
may  be  raised  in  one  small  bed  and  the  seedlings 
transplanted  to  another ;  Radishes  also  may  be 
successfully  grown  in  a  corner  where  the  soil  is 
deep  and  light,  the  Turnip  -  rooted  varieties 
being  very  suitable.  Mustard  and  Cress  should 
be  grown  in  boxes  if  there  ia  not  an  available 
border ;  the  seeds  must  be  sown  thickly  on  the 
moist  surface  of  some  rich  soil,  pressed  down  into 
it  with  a  piece  of  clean  board,  but  not  covered  with 
soil.  Avon. 


r'iiir'l.'W"- 


-THE  SAME  PLANT  AFTER  THE  SHOOTS  HATE 
BEEN  PROPERLY  THINNED.  NOTE  THAT  THE 
THREE   SHOOTS  LEFT  STAND   WELL  APART. 


842 


THE     GARDEN. 


(July  10,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower  Garden. 

ROSES.  — At  this  season  it  will  be  very 
interesting  to  observe  which  of  the 
numerous  and  widely  contrasted 
Roses  come  into  flower  first  and 
^  the  length  of  time  they  keep  on 
blooming,  so  that  for  certain  pur- 
poses masses  of  colour  may  be  had  at  one  time. 
Notes  should  also  be  made  of  any  which  may  not 
hd  suitable,  and  varieties  selected  when  in  bloom 
to  fill  their  places  at  the  proper  time  for 
planting.  Climbing  Roses  on  arches,  if  in  a 
healthy,  vigorous  condition,  should  now  be 
throwing  up  strong  growths  from  the  base  to 
furnish  a  supply  of  flowers  next  year.  Let  these 
be  made  secure  before  they  get  damaged  by 
wind.  If  more  are  springing  up  than  will  be 
required,  they  may  be  removed  early  to  encour- 
age those  retained  to  build  up  strength.  If  the 
land  is  light,  applications  ol  liquid  manure  will 
be  of  great  assistance  to  growth  ;  but  let  this  be 
given  in  sufficient  quantity  to  penetrate  the  soil 
to  a  good  depth,  otherwise,  it  will  be  of  little 
service. 

Pansies  and  Violas— These  must  be  given  a 
heavy  supply  of  moisture  at  intervals  should  the 
weather  prove  dry,  and  if  the  soil  is  light  a  top- 
dressing  of  very  short,  well-decayed  manure  will 
prove  highly  beneficial  in  assisting  the  plants  to 
produce  a  long  supply  of  bloom.  Propagation 
may  also  be  taken  in  hand.  Small  offsets  make 
the  best  plants,  and  these  ought  to  be  inserted 
on  a  shady  border  and  kept  well  supplied  with 
moisture. 

Violets. — Keep  these  free  from  weeds  and 
runners.  Syringe  the  foliage  freely  during  dry 
weather,  and  if  red  spider  appears  use  a  weak 
solution  of  Gishuret  Compound  or  some  other 
suitable  insecticide  until  the  pest  has  been 
thoroughly  eradicated. 

Hardy  Fruits. 
Straioherries  Jor  Jam  and  Preserves. — For  this 
purpose  those  varieties  of  good  colour  and  medium 
size  are  the  most  suitable  to  grow.  Keen's 
Seedling  and  Vioomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury  are 
excellent.  The  fruits  should  be  gathered  when 
perfectly  dry  and  without  the  stalks.  Do  not 
bruise  the  fruits  more  than  is  necessary,  and  take 
them  as  soon  as  gathered  to  where  the  jim  is  to 
be  made.  Fruits  for  travelling  should  also  be 
gathered  when  perfectly  dry  and  not  too  ripe. 
Pack  each  fruit  tightly  in  a  single  leaf  resting 
on  a  layer  of  cotton-wool  or  some  other  soft 
material  and  one  layer  thick.  When  the  bor  is 
filled,  lay  a  covering  of  soft  and  pliable  Vine  leaves 
over  the  fruit  and  then  a  sheet  of  tissue  paper 
For  a  long  distance  it  is  most  essential  that  the 
fruits  cannot  shake  in  the  box.  Cord  several 
boxes  together  and  label  them  with  red  ink 
"  Fruit,  with  Care." 

Peaches. — Early  varieties  which  ripen  by  the 
end  of  the  month  and  the  beginning  of  August 
must  receive  every  attention.    Feeding  on  shallow 
borders  must  not  be  neglected  to  increase  the  size 
of  the  fruits.     Do  not  overcrop,  and  expose  the 
fruits  as  much  as  possible  to  assist  the  colouring 
A   heavy  deluging   of   water   to   all    wall    trees 
carrying  heavy  crops  will  do  much  good. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
Celery. — Get  out  the  plants  as  soon  aa  possible 
and  see  that  the  roots  are  well  moistened  when 
lifting  them.     Plant  carefully  and  water  freely 
in  dry  weather.      Dust  the    leaves    frequently 
with   soot  and  wood-ashes,   and    syringe    with 
quassia  extract  to  prevent  the  fly  and  maggot. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viaoount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


THE       FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

The  Pleasure  Garden. 
Floweri?«g    Trees  and   Shrubs.— These,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  with  age  and  vigorous  root- 
action  are  disposed  to  outgrow   the   space  and 
position  originally  allotted   them,   to  the  detri- 
ment   very   often   of   other   subjects,    but   more 
particularly  to  the  obstruction  they  form  when 
growing  near  walks  and  drives.     Any  pruning 
to  rectify  this  is  best  carried  out  at  this  season 
or  as  soon  hereafter  as  is  compatible  with  the 
flowering  of  any  particular  species  or  variety. 
The  knife  or  secateurs  are  best  for  this  work, 
and  if  deftly  handled  no  disfigurement  and  but 
slight  interruption  of  the  natural  contour  will 
accrue  to  the  plant.     The  Lilac,  Philadelphus  and 
Cytisus  families  are   the  chief  oflfenders  in  this 
respect  among  common  shrubs  ;  but  many  others 
more   rare  are  greatly  benefited  by   having  un- 
duly vigorous  shoots  removed  from  time  to  time. 
Flower  Garden. 
Beds  and  Borders  recently  planted  with  the 
customary    summer    bedders    should    have    the 
surface  soil   stirred    occasionally,   the  doing  of 
which  will  greatly  benefit  the  plants,  particularly 
in  periods  of  drought,  and  also  keep  weeds  in 
check.      Trailing    plants    of    many    kinds    will 
require  spreading  out  and  securing  to  the  soil 
with  pins,  those  made  of  small  wire  or  strips  of 
zinc  being  neater  in  appearance  and  more  easily 
applied  than  the  wooden  hooks  of  former  days. 

Lilies,  Gladioli  and  all  tall-growing  bulbous 
plants  are  best  supported  in  good  time,  the 
species  named  requiring  a  Bamboo  stake  to  each 
stem  and  the  ligature  fixed  in  such  a  way  that  it 
rises  according  to  the  growth  of  the  plant. 
Vineries. 
Late  Orape.i.—Aa  these  reach  the  stoning 
period  the  most  critical  stage  for  what  is  known 
as  scalding  of  the  berries  is  at  hand.  Some 
varieties  are  more  subject  to  injury  in  this  way 
than  others.  Lady  Downe's  being  perhaps  the 
worst;  but  none  is  entirely  exempt  under 
certain  atmospheric  influences.  Slight  warmth 
in  the  pipes  and  a  circulation  of  air  at  all  times, 
increasing  this  in  the  morning  before  the  sun 
becomes  at  all  powerful  upon  the  house,  is  the 
safest  course  to  follow.  The  symptoms  are 
unmistakable,  as  a  brown  spot  shows  upon  the 
berries  affected  and  decay  speedily  develops. 

Waterijig.— Vines  having  their  roots  confined 
to  inside  borders  require  copious  supplies  of 
water  at  this  season.  This  being  plentiful,  the 
soil  may  be  left  exposed  ;  but  if  otherwise,  a 
covering  2  inches  in  thickness  of  some  loose  non 
conducting  material  laid  upon  the  surface  will 
greatly  assist  the  management  and  prove  bene- 
ficial to  the  Vines.  Manures  and  stimulants  of 
any  kind  should  be  very  sparingly  applied  after 
this  time,  for  if  too  much  vigour  is  by  this  means 
imparted,  faulty  keeping  qualities  of  the  crop 
are  almost  sure  to  become  evident  in  the  early 
winter  season. 

Kitchen  Garden. 
Endive  in  small  quantities  may  be  sown 
occasionally,  choojing  a  cool  site,  as  on  the  north 
side  of  a  wall  or  hedge.  This  crop  is  very  apt  to 
run  to  seed  ;  hence  it  is  not  advisable  to  depend 
very  much  upon  early  sowings. 

Dwarf  Beans  may  still  be  sown,  but  if  in  such 
a  manner  that  frames  can  be  placed  over  them  if 
necessary  in  due  course,  so   much   the  better. 
Asparagus  plants  put  out  this  year  should  have 
the  growths  protected  against  wind.     A   single 
stake  to  each  and  the  growths  secured  thereto  is 
best,  but  other  plans  that  will  provide  the  neces- 
sary support  will   readily  be  suggested  to  the 
operator.    Broccoli  and  late  Cauliflower  are  best 
planted  in  the  early  part  of  July  ;  consequently 
the  situation  should  at  once    be  prepared   by 
manuring,  if  needful,  and  digging. 
James  Bat. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway  ) 
ChUowaj/  Souse,  Surl%egto7i,  Wigtmmtakire. 


BOOKS. 

Obsepvine  and  Forecasting*  the 
WeatheP.*— There  is  a  good  deal  ot  useful 
and  interesting  information  given  in  this  little 
book,  and  in  such  a  way  as  to  be  easily  under- 
stood by  those  who  have  little,  if  any,  previous 
acquaintance  with  meteorology.  In  the  course 
of  seven  short  chapters,  clouds,  wind,  halos, 
thunderstorms,  weather  sayings,  the  moon  and 
phenological  observations  are  respectively  dealt 
with.  In  the  first  chapter  the  author  points  out 
how  the  study  of  clouds  and  cloud  changes  may 
serve  as  helps  in  forecasting  weather,  particularly 
if  local  conditions  be  also  taken  into  consideration. 
As  he  elsewhere  truly  says,  there  are  very  few 
weather  proverbs  which  can  be  depmded  upon, 
although  a  certain  amount  of  truth  underlies 
many  of  them.  There  are  two  popular  fallacies 
to  which  attention  is  directed,  viz. ,  the  influence 
of  the  moon  on  the  weather  and  the  fall  of 
thunderbolts.  Both  are  still  firmly  believed  in 
by  a  great  many  people,  although  long  since 
proved  to  be  virtually  non-existent.  But  so 
firm  a  hold  have  such  ideas  as  these  upon  the 
public  mind  that  it  will,  no  doubt,  be  many  years 
before  they  cease  to  be  credited. 

Dutch  Bulbs  and   Gardens.— The 

above  is  the  title  of  a  handsome  book  published 
by   Messrs.  A.  and   C.    Black,   in   which   three 
ladies  describe  by  picture  and  pen  the  bulbs  and 
gardens  of  Holland.     The  twenty-four  coloured 
illustrations   by  Mima   Nixon  give  us  glimpses 
of  the  gardens  at  Het  Loo  and  typical  scenes  in 
the  flower  season  at  Haarlem.     The  letterpress  is 
contributed  by  Una  Silberrad  and  Sophie  Lyell. 
The  former  tells  us  how  the  different  flowers  are 
cultivated,  and  as  one  would  expect  from   the 
author  of  "  The  Good  Comrade  "  (an  excellent 
novel  with  a  heroine  and  a  blue  Daffodil;,  we  get 
interwoven      with      these     details     interesting 
paragraphs  and    pages  of    history  and  fiction, 
combined  with  an   individuality  of  observation 
and  opinion  that  certainly  add  to  the  charm  of  the 
book,  even  if  we  think  that  with  a  more  mature 
consideration  and  longer  acquaintance  they  might 
have   been  different.     Miss  Lyell's    part    deals 
with  the  past,  and  she  gives  us,  as  the  major  part 
of    the  appendix,    a   free    translation    of    Saint 
Simon's   book,    "  Des    Jacintes,"    published    at 
Amsterdam  in  1768,  when  Hyacinths  had  become 
the  flower  of  the  day.     For  the  ordinary  reader 
part  of  the  section  will,  I  fear,  be  a  little  dry  : 
but  its  inclusion  is  justified  as  an  example  of  the 
literature  of  that  time  and  the  cultural  methods 
then  in  vogue.     A  similar  work,  which  may  well 
be    compared    with     the     above,    is    the    Pere 
d'Ardene's   "Traits  sur    la  connoissance  et  la 
Culture  des  Jacintes,"  Avignon,  1759.       I  have 
read  "  Dutch  Bulbs  and  Gardens"  and  it  has 
interested   me   very   much.     I  always   want    to 
know   more    about   the   flowers   I   grow.     It   is 
surprising  how  a  little  knowledge  of  their  history 
increases    the    pleasure     they    give    us.       Miss 
Silberrad's  chapters  are  full  of  such  information 
about  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Daffodils,  Iris,  Crocus 
and  the  bulbs  we  know  so  well  in  spring  and 
early  summer.       I    cannot    say    there    are    no 
mistakes.     I  wonder,  for  example,  if  she  has  ever 
calculated  what  the  labour  bill  would  be  on  large 
farms   if  her  ideas  of  covering  and  uncovering 
(page  31)  were  carried  out.     Also,  I  am  afraid  if  I 
gave  her  a  commission  to  get  me  a  bulb  of  the  true 
Semper  Augustus  Tulip  of  mania  days  (page  84), 
she  would  find  it  more  difiEcult  to  obtain  than 
even  her  heroine  did  the  blue  Daffodil,  and  if 
she  tried  to  palm  off  some  other  variety,  I  would 
be  able  to  show  her  an  authentic  picture  of  this 
famous  flower  in  the  coloured  plate  at  the  end  of 
Solms-Laubaoh's  "Die  Gesehiohte  der  Tulpen  in 
Mittel — und  West — Europa."    Again,  is  the  Iris 
the  flower  of  all  others  more  grown  to-day  than 
in  former  times  (page  60)  ?    I  may  be  wrong,  but 


*  "OlMerving  and  Forecasting  the  Weather."    By  Ii.  W. 
Horner,  48pp.,  6d.     \Vithei-b>  aud  Co.,  London,  11K>H. 


July  10,  1909.] 


THE     GAEDEN. 


343 


I  should  have  said  the  Daflfodil.  Miss  Silberrad, 
however,  discriminates  in  what  she  accepts.  The 
delicious  tale  o£  the  dear  old  bachelor  who 
smokes  at  meals  and  in  bed  (page  112)  is  all 
right ;  but  when  she  records  how  an  English 
enthusiast  told  her  we  can  have  Diffodils  in  the 
open  from  February  till  October,  she  is  a  httle 
sceptical.  (Miss  Silberrad,  yo«,  a  novelist  !  Why 
the  man  owns  an  airship  o£  the  Benson's  "Lord 
of  the  World  "  type,  and  he  has  one  garden  here 
and  another  in  New  Zealand.)  Miss  Nixon's 
pictures  are  very  suggestive  and  give  a  splendid 
idea  of  bulb-time.  Those  that  especially  appeal  to 
me  are  "  Hyacinths  Scattered  on  the  Sand,"  "  A 
Boatload  of  Fragrance,"  and  the  Tulip  scene 
facing  page  94,  "Whose  leaves  with  their  crimson 
glow,  hide  the  heart  that  is  burning  and  black 
below."  If  I  must  assume  the  role  of  critic, 
I  would  say  that  the  wide  stretches  of  colour 
have  not  that  sharpness  of  demarcation  which 
I  always  seem  to  see  when  I  look  at  the  mathe- 
matically square  beds  and  straight  rows  which 
are  de  rigueur  in  all  the  bulb  farms  of  Holland.— 
Joseph  Jacob. 


ANSWERS 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS. 

RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— rA*  Editor  inUndu 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistanee,  no  matter  what  the  trramch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  objtct  will  make  a  speoial  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspoiidents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions shmdd  be  clearly  and  concisely  loritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editob  of  THE 
Gakden,  so,  Tamstock  Street,  Covent  Sarden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
the  nama  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  mare  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 

FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Daffodils  In  field  (E.  M.  L.  5.).— At  this 

time  of  year  you  might  with  impunity  mow  the 
whole  of  the  grass  area  in  which  you  planted  the 
bulbs.  It  is  quite  another  matter  where  the 
bulbs  are  cut  down  when  in  the  full-growing 
state.  We  do  not  know  whether  you  require  the 
grass  or  herbage  for  cattle,  which,  as  a  rule, 
refuse  to  eat  grass  mingled  with  the  Daflfodil 
foliage.  We  do  not  know  that  it  is  poisonous 
to  the  cattle,  but  they  certainly  refuse  it  after 
having  tasted  it.  It  will  be  much  better  not  to 
allow  the  Raspberry  canes  to  fruit  this  year,  and 
by  directing  all  the  energies  of  the  plant  to  good 
growth  ensure  a  better  result  when  the  plants 
have  become  established.  The  plants  will  be 
greatly  benefited  by  a  heavy  mulching  with 
manure. 

Pansy  plants  dying  U-_  E.  M.).— 
There  was  no  insect-life  apparent  in  the  plant 
you  sent,  and  its  sudden  collapse  may  be  due  to 
ground  fungi  or  brought  about  by  the  heat 
and  drought  of  early  June,  which  play  such 
havoc  with  these  plants  when  not  fully 
established.  The  base  of  the  stems  point  rather 
to  fungus  ;  but  the  root-fibres  are  by  no  means 
ample,  and  may  have  proved  unable  to  support 
the  plant.  In  any  case  avoid  a  sunny  spot  for 
the  plants.  Bed  them  oat  early  in  the  year  so 
that  they  may  become  established,  and  avoid 
a  very  rich  soil.  Give  a  rather  free  dressing  of 
lime  to  the  surface  soil  during  the  winter  months, 
well  forking  it  in.  A  cool,  moist  soil  and  a 
shady  position  are  best  suited  for  these  plants, 
with  firm  planting. 

Sweet  Peas  unsatisfactory 
(E.  J.  P.). — There  is  not  the  slightest  doubt 
that  you  have  erred  all  along  in  excessively 
manuring  the  soil,  and  that  you  have  further 
aggravated  matters  by  the  use  of  nitrate  of  soda  ; 


even  with  plants  in  the  best  of  health  and 
vigour  loz.  to  the  gallon  of  water  is  ample, 
while  for  those  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition,  if 
it  were  given  at  all,  a  quarter  of  that  amount  to 
the  gallon  would  be  sufficient.  Beyond  that, 
you  cannot  ventilate  the  structure  properly, 
with  the  natural  result  that  you  get  great 
extremes  of  temperature  with  corresponding 
fluctuations  in  the  atmospheric  conditions.  In 
these  circumstances  it  will  only  be  by  the 
greatest  good  fortune  that  you  will  ever  achieve 
satisfactory  results,  and  unless  you  can  mend 
matters  you  would  be  well  advised  to  try  some 
other  plant  than  the  Sweet  Pea  under  glass. 

Violas  dying  off  <ia(;i/ S-)-— Slugs  and  millipedes 
(Blanjulus  pulohellus)  were  present  among  the  plants,  and 
the  damage  is  probably  due  to  one  or  other  of  these  pests. 
Kilogrub  or  Apterite  sprinkled  between  the  plants,  care 
being  taken  not  to  touch  them  with  these  substances, 
would  probably  check  their  depredations. 

Wliite  Lupines  dropping  theip  buds  (P.  B. 
Balcombsj.—Ihe  only  conclusion  is  that  the  root-action 
is  defective  in  some  way  or  another,  or  that  the  position 
is  either  too  dry  or  the  soil  greatly  impoverished.  "We  are 
presuming,  of  course,  that  the  plant  is  not  of  great  age, 
as  this  would  naturally  be  a  predisposing  cause.  It  the 
falling  of  the  buds  of  this  particular  plant  is  an  occurrence 
of  more  than  one  year,  there  is  a  possible  local  influence 
at  work— insect  pest  or  root  canker— apart  from  the  above, 
of  which  we  have  no  information.  The  remedy  is  to  lift 
and  examine  the  plant  in  September,  and  give  it  a  fresh 
site  in  liberally  treated  soil. 

Delphiniums  flo'weping  twice  a  year 
{Ad:e).— There  is  not  much  to  be  gained  by  encouraging 
a  second  flowering  of  these  plants.  Certain  varieties  in 
certain  seasons  produce  a  creditable  display,  and  where 
this  is  so  the  spikes  are  acceptable  enough  ;  but  the  best 
flowering  is  given  by  those  plants  which  flower  but  once 
each  year.  D.  Belladonna  is,  of  course,  nearly  a  perpetual 
flowering  sort,  and  needs  no  cutting  back  to  induce  it  to  do 
so.  Should  a  second  flowering  be  desired,  cut  the  plants  down 
to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  soil,  and  when  new  growth 
appears  encourase  the  development  of  flower-stem  by 
copious  supplies  of  water.  Sooner  or  later,  however,  the 
plants  suffer  from  these  enforced  methods  of  cultivation, 
and  in  the  following  year  the  flowering  may  be  weak  in 
consequence. 

THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Cllvlas  (Hlppaastrums)  after 
flowering  (D.  E.  W.). — When  the  flowers  of 
the  Clivia  are  faded  the  old  stem  may  be 
removed.  In  the  case  of  large  masses  which  you 
wish  to  divide,  now  is  the  best  time  of  the  year 
to  carry  out  the  operation.  It  should  be  done  as 
carefully  as  possible,  yet  even  then  some  of  the 
roots  will  probably  be  broken  or  bruised.  If 
only  bruised  the  damaged  portion  must  be  cut  off, 
otherwise  it  will  very  likely  prove  to  be  a  seat  of 
decay.  After  being  potted  these  divided  plants 
must,  if  possible,  be  kept  somewhat  closer  than 
the  other  occupants  of  the  greenhouse,  and  also 
shaded  from  the  sun  till  the  roots  recover  from 
the  check  they  have  experienced.  The  name  of 
the  leaf  you  sent  is  Funkia  subeordata.  You  do 
not  say  whether  your  Azaleas  are  hardy,  in  the 
open  ground,  or  tender  sorts  grown  in  pots. 
They  may  be  cut  back  now,  but  in  any  ease  you 
must  make  up  (your  mind  for  a  curtailed  display 
of  flower  next  season.  It  is,  however,  the  only 
way  that  you  can  improve  the  shape  of  the 
plants,  and  in  all  probability  the  second  season's 
display  will  be  a  good  one.  If  they  are  Indian 
Azaleas  in  pots,  it  will  be  a  great  assistance  if 
they  are  kept  warmer  than  usual  and  occasionally 
syringed  after  being  cut  back.  This  will  hasten 
the  formation  of  young  shoots.  If  they  are 
hardy  Azaleas  in  the  open  ground,  of  course  this 
cannot  be  done. 


is  always  a  free  and  healthy  grower,  but  does  not 
incline  to  bear  fruit  freely  until  it  has  attained  a 
good  age.  The  tree  should  be  allowed  to  extend 
its  main  branches  without  any  shortening.  The 
only  pruning  it  needs  is  to  shorten  the  summer 
side  shoots  to  within  five  buds  of  their  base  at 
the  end  of  July,  and  again  to  further  shorten  the 
same  shoots  in  winter  to  within  two  buds  of  their 
base.  We  gather  from  your  letter  that  your 
young  tree  is  in  good  health  and  making,  if  any- 
thing, too  vigorous  a  growth.  This  is  a  clear 
indication  that  it  is  at  the  same  time  making 
roots  as  strong  as  are  its  branches,  and  as  long 
as  this  is  permitted  to  go  on  little  or  no  fruit 
need  be  expected.  At  the  end  of  October  you 
should  carefully  get  at  its  roots  and  cut  all  the 
strongest  through  at  a  distance  of  2  feet  from  the 
main  stem  (probably  you  will  find  from  four  to 
six  of  these  strong  roots).  From  these  cut  roots 
will  emanate  the  following  summer  masses  of 
small  fibrous  roots,  which,  instead  of  producing 
such  strong  wood  growth,  will  convert  much  of 
it  into  well-ripened  fruit-spurs.  It  is  because  the 
few  fruit-spurs  produced  on  the  robust  growth 
of  your  tree  failed  to  properly  develop  and  ripen 
the  blossoms  that  the  flowers  withered  away 
instead  of  forming  fruit. 

Goosebeppy  bushes  unsatlsfactopy  (J.  J. 

i^rome).— The  leaves  have  been  injured  by  spring  frosts. 
The  shoot  appears  to  have  come  from  a  bush  in  need  of 
manuring  and  pruning. 

Goosebeppies  going  -wons  (B.  A.  S.,  Bristol). 
The  Gooseberries  have  been  badly  attacked  by  red  spider. 
The  bushes  should  be  sprayed  with  a  solution  of  loz.  of 
potassium  sulphide  in  three  gallons  of  water  as  soon  as 
the  infestation  is  first  noticed,  the  spraying  being 
repeated  in  order  to  kill  the  mites  hatched  from  the  eggs, 
which  would  not  be  injured  by  the  spraying.  No  notice 
will  in  future  be  taken  of  your  queries  unless  you  send 
name  and  address  as  per  rule. 

Diseased  Melon  leaves  (Jfrfom).— The  leaves 
are  badly  infested  with  red  spider.  This  pest,  when  once 
it  gets  established,  is  very  difficult  to  eradicate,  as  there 
is  practically  nothing  that  will  kill  the  eggs,  and  the 
mites  are  protected  by  the  web  they  spin  over  the  leaf. 
It  \^ould  be  well  to  spray  the  leaves  with  a  solution  of 
potassium  sulphide  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to  three  gallons  of 
water  and  to  maintain  conditions  in  the  house  that  are 
unfavourable  to  the  mite.  Whenever  the  air  is  dry  or  the 
plants  get  at  all  dry  at  the  root,  as  when  bottom-heat  is 
applied  by  means  of  pipes,  there  is  great  danger  of  the 
pest  increasing  very  rapidly  and  gaining  the  upper  hand. 


Tpeatment  of  Christmas  Roses  and 
Camellias  (L.  E.  H.).— Presumably  the  Christmas 
Roses  are  planted  in  the  open  ground,  in  which  case  the 
only  attention  they  need  is  to  see  that  they  do  not  suffer 
for  the  want  of  water.  A  mulch  of  manure  or  decayed 
leaves  will  be  helpful  to  them.  If  in  pots,  they  may  be 
plunged  out  of  doors  and  be  regularly  supplied  with 
water.  An  occasional  dose  of  weak  liquid  manure  will  do 
them  good.  Newly  potted  Camellias  do  not  need  any 
stimulant  whatever;  all  they  require  is  to  be  watered 
when  necessary,  while  they  are  greatly  benefited  by  a 
liberal  syringing  on  the  evenings  of  hot  days. 

FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Jargonelle    Pear    tree   unsatis- 
factory (G.  A.  P.).— The  Jargonelle  Pear  tree 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

Obtaining  large  Potatoes  (J.  S.).— 
We  regret  that  the  objects  of  your  Potato  olub 
should  be  simply  to  secure  the  largest  tuber  by 
the  competitors.  It  is  on  a  level  with  the  old 
Lancashire  practice  of  obtaining  the  biggest 
Gooseberry.  But  then,  when  obtained,  what  is 
the  good  of  it  ?  Now,  if  your  olub  would  effer 
prizes  for  the  best  marketable  crop  and  weight 
from  any  one  root,  or  from  any  six  roots,  the 
crop  to  be  judged  by  the  proportion  of  good 
market  ware  or  table-used  tubers  for  cooking,  that 
would  be  a  really  useful  work.  What  is  being 
done  now  is  sheer  waste  or  worse.  But  for  your 
speoial  object  the  way  to  get  the  largest  tuber  is 
to  grow  such  a  variety  as  Imperator  or  Up-to- 
Date,  to  allow  only  one  stem  to  be  produced, 
to  plant  wide  apart  and  well  mould  up,  giving 
the  plants  about  the  roots  each  loz.  of  well- 
crushed  nitrate  of  soda  once  a  mouth  till  the 
end  of  August  to  work  into  the  roots.  A  sprinkle 
of  guano  will  also  help  the  plants. 

Aspapagus  unsatisfactory  (J-  (Jranf.)— No 
fungus  or  insect  pest  could  be  discovered  on  the  shoots 
sent.  They  seem  to  lack  vigour.  Are  the  green  stems 
kept  growing  through  the  summer,  and  is  a  sufficiency  of 
manure  given  ? 

New  Potatoes  at  Chpistmas  {N.  M.).— 
The  method  adopted  to  obtain  young  Potato  tubers  at 
Christmas  is  to  save  good-sized  old  tubers  through  the 
summer  in  a  very  cool  place,  frequently  rubbing  off 
the  young  shoots  made  from  the  eyes  to  check 
growth.  By  the  winter  that  form  of  growth  ceases. 
Then,  if  the  tubers  are  placed  rather  close  together  in  a 
dark  place,  sueh  as  a  warm  cellar,  or  in  a  Mushroom 
house  where  it  is  dark  and  warm,  the  tubers  being  placed 
on  a  carpet  of  8»il  and  gently  watered,  using  tepid  water, 
presently  young  tubers  are  formed  from  the  eyes  instead 
of  shoots,  and  these  will  vary  from  the  size  of  a  pigeon's 
egg  to  that  of  a  hen's  egg.  They  may  be  gathered  when 
thought  large  enough.    Where  the  demand  is  considerable. 


344 


THE    GARDEN. 


[July  10,  1909. 


it  18  needful  to  have  several  batches  of  old  tubers  to 
follow  on,  as  when  the  first  crop  is  gathered  what  follows 
is  very  small.  Slight  warmth,  darkness  and  some 
moisture  are  essential.  Any  good,  large-tubered  variety 
will  do. 

The  best  time  to  fopxn  Aspapagrus-beds 
(Af'hford). — The  best  time  is  the  first  week  in  April,  and 
one  year  old  plants  are  the  most  satisfactory.  It  is  not 
too  late  to  BOW  seeds  now  (if  they  are  sown  immediately). 
The  young  plants  would  come  in  then  for  planting  the 
beds  next  spring. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Cut  flowreps  fOP  ppofit  (B.  T.  K).— We  are  afraid 
we  cannot  hold  out  much  hope  to  you  so  far  as  growing 
cut  flowers  and  the  use  of  the  parcel  post  as  a  means  of 
distribution  are  concerned.  Without  knowing  what 
flowers  you  have  in  mind,  whether  hardy  or  greenhouse, 
you  would  of  necessity,  in  a  village  far  removed  from  a 
railway,  have  to  contend  with  many  delays  by  reason  of 
late  posts  or  the  infrequeucy  of  deliveries  or  other  things, 
all  vexatious  to  yourself  and  disappointing  to  your  waiting 
friends  or  customers.  The  parcel  post  would  be  a  good 
medium  for  distribution  if  always  reliable  and  prompt, 
so  that  the  flowers  would  be  quite  fresh  when  received, 
and,  so  far  as  the  towns  and  near  districts  are  concerned, 
would  be  useful  enough.  The  railway  Is,  of  course,  the 
quickest  and  most  direct,  and  the  damage  to  which  you 
refer  might  be  greatly  minimised  by  ^^ood  packing.  Cut 
flowers  in  light  boses  are  usually  treated  with  care  if 
properly  labelled  and  a  fairly  prompt  delivery  ensured. 
Another  difficulty  with  the  cut-flower  trade  from  such  a 
standpoint  as  yours  is  that  of  getting  the  orders  for  what 
you  have  at  the  precise  time  the  crop  is  ready,  and  unless 
you  had  large  supplies  you  might  be  put  to  considerable 
trouble  in  the  matter.  Roses  and  Sweet  Peas,  however, 
that  flower  long  and  profusely  are  exceptions,  and  there 
are  others  of  the  same  character.  Moreover,  you  would 
have  to  anticipate  the  flowering  of  your  crops  and  adver- 
tise daily  for  customers,  unless  you  were  in  touch  with 
many  friends  who  have  no  gardens  and  who  might  become 
regular,  i.e.,  weekly  or  bi-weekly  customers.  The  parcel 
post  for  small-rooted  plants  might  be  different,  and  there 
are  many  things  suited  for  such  a  trade.  As  to  the  profit, 
that  would  depend  upon  the  amount  of  trade  ;  but  in  this 
also  constant  advertising  would  be  required  if,  at  the 
distance  from  town  and  rail  which  your  letter  suggests, 
you  are  to  keep  in  touch  with  the  world.  The  only  way 
to  establish  a  connexion  with  the  London  flower-shops 
is  to  grow  something  good,  let  them  see  it  and  give  some 
sort  of  guarantee  that  you  could  produce  it  over  a  long 
season  and  at  a  moderate  cost. 

Names  of  plants.—^.  E.  G.,  Tkirsk.~The  variety 

sent  is  known  as  the  Green  Rose  (Rosa  viridiflora). 

Mrs.  Morgan.— Jjigustmm  japonicum. Robert  QttrMy.— 

Fragaria  Indica. S.D.  Ratlnakis. — Malva  moschata  alba. 

G.  B.  P.,  Tonhridge.~\^  Silene  species,  cannot  name  in 

this    condition ;    2,  Oypsophila  species ;    3,  Calaraintha 

Acinos  ;    4,   Veronica    officinalis   variety. Grain.  —  1, 

Rose  Tea  Rambler ;  2,  Scilla  peruviana  alba  ;  3,  Begonia 
metallica;  4,  Saxifraga  Cotyledon  x  Hostii ;  5,  Lychnis 
Viscaria  alba ;  0,  Rose  Climbing  White  Pet ;  7,  Begonia 

weltoniensis. Sussex  Orchis. — 1,  Orchis    maculata;    2, 

Habenaria  conopsea ;   3,   H.  bifolia. —Afrs.  R.   Ford.— 

Gladiolus   segetum. Laguna.  —  Apparently   a   small 

flower  of  Ulrich  Brunner. L.  £.— Calceolaria  integri- 

folia,  Hesperis  matronalis,  Matthiola  incana  and  Austrian 
Copper  Briar.  Orchid  pod  with  seeds  all  gone  ;  they  are 
very  small. Miis  T.  d'E.~0\A  Red  Damask  Rose. 


SOCIETIES. 


RICHMOND  (SURREY)  HORTICVLTrRAL  SOCIETY. 
The  thirty-fifth  annual  exhibition  in  connexion  with  the 
above  society  was  held  in  the  Old  Deer  Park,  Richmond, 
on  the  30th  ult.,  when  a  good  display  oi  pot  plants, 
vegetables  and  fruit  was  to  be  seen.  Unfortunately,  owing 
to  the  cold  and  wet  weather  previously  experienced,  the 
Roses  and  Sweet  Peas,  which  are  usually  a  great  feature 
of  this  show,  were  very  poor,  and  very  few  were 
exhibited.  The  committee  were  fortunate  in  having  a 
fine  day  for  the  show,  and  a  good  attendance  of  visitors 
was  secured.  Excellent  arrangements  were  made  by  the 
hon.  secretary,  Mr.  W.  J.  Cook,  and  his  band  of  willing 
helpers. 

Pot  Plants. 

For  six  exotic  Orchids,  distinct,  H.  Little,  Esq., 
Baronshalt,  East  Twickenham  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  Howard), 
was  first  out  of  three  competitors  with  well-grown 
Cattleyas,  Lsello-Cattleyaa  and  Lielias,  Lcelia  Aphrodite 
alba  being  especially  good.  Mr.  W.  Vause,  Leamington 
Spa,  and  Mr.  Norman  L.  Smith,  East  Twickenham,  were 
placed  second  and  third  respectively. 

In  Class  1,  for  a  group  of  plants  in  or  out  of  flower  and 
arranged  for  eflfect,  the  first  prize  went  to  Lady  Waechter, 
The  Terrace  House,  Richmond  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  Burfoot), 
for  a  beautifully  arranged  semi-circular  group,  which  com- 
prised Crotons,  Gloxinias,  Lilies,  Humeaelegans,  Begonias, 
Orchids  and  other  plants.  Second  honours  went  to  Mr. 
W.  Vause,  Leamington  Spa,  whose  group  was  chiefly 
composed  of  good  foliage  plants,  the  effect  being  rather 
heavy. 

In  a  similar  class  for  a  smaller  semi-circular  group 
there  were  three  entries,  first  prize  going  to  C.  M.  Bart- 
lett,  Esq.,   East  Sheen  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  Hicks).     This 


group  contained  some  good  Dracsenas,  Crotons,  Cleroden- 
drons  and  Caladiums,  together  with  a  few  flowering 
plants,  the  arrangement,  however,  being  too  dense  to 
show  them  to  the  best  advantage.  Second  honours  fell  to 
Mrs.  Fitzwygram,  Hampton  Hill  (gardener,  Mr.  W. 
Redwood),  and  third  to  Mr.  W.  Vause. 

For  six  Palms,  not  less  than  three  varieties,  Mr.  Vause 
was  first  with  some  good  and  clean  specimens,  Lady 
Waechter  being  placed  second  for  smaller  but  good 
plants. 

For  six  Caladiums,  distinct,  three  competitors  tried 
conclusions,  first  prize  going  to  C.  M.  Bartlett,  Esq.,  East 
Sheen,  for  exceedingly  well-grown  specimens.  Mrs. 
Vaughan  Arbuckle,  Richmoud  (gardener,  Mr.  H. 
Lawrence),  was  second  and  L.  Warde,  Esq.,  Petersham, 
third. 

In  a  similar  class  for  Fuchsias  some  very  good  plants 
were  shown,  Mrs.  Fitzwygram,  Hampton  Hill,  being  first 
out  of  three  competitors  with  splendid  pyramidal  plants. 
Second  honours  were  well  wan  by  Mrs.  Cowper  Coles, 
Twickenham  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  Keary),  and  C.  M.  Bartlett, 
Esq.,  was  third. 

For  six  Coleus,  L.  Warde,  Esq.,  Petersham  (gardener, 
Mr.  A.  Allum),  was  first,  C.  M.  Bartlett,  Esq  ,  and  A. 
Burton,  Esq.,  East  Sheen,  following  in  the  order  named. 

For  a  basket  of  plants,  in  or  out  of  flower,  arranged  for 
effect,  competition  was  very  good,  first  honours  going  to 
L.  Warde,  Esq.,  Petersham,  H.  Little,  Esq.,  East  Twicken- 
ham, and  Lady  Waechter  following  in  the  order  named. 

For  twelve  pots  of  Streptocarpus  there  were  two  entries, 
first  prize  being  awarded  to  G.  Atkins,  Esq.,  East  Sheen 
(gardener,  Mr.  W.  .T.  Hill),  for  splendidly  grown  plants, 
all  dark  blue  varieties  being  shown.  Second  prize  went 
to  A.  Burton,  Esq.,  East  Sheen  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  Quarter- 
man),  whose  plants  were  also  good  and  more  varied  in 
colour. 

For  nine  Gloxinias,  distinct,  in  pots,  the  first  prize  was 
well  won  by  Lady  Waechter  with  a  very  even  and  good 
lot,  the  colours  being  weli  defined.  A.  Burton,  Esq.,  was 
a  close  second,  the  flowers  in  this  case  being  a  little  drawn. 

For  six  tuberous  Begonias  in  flower  there  were  three 
entries,  first  prize  going  to  L.  Edwardson,  Esq.,  Belari, 
Sidcup  (gardener,  T.  Rabbitt),  with  splendidly  grown 
double  -  flowered  plants.  G.  Atkins,  Esq.,  East  Sheen 
(gardener,  Mr.  W.  J.  Hill),  was  a  very  close  second,  his 
single-flowered  specimens  being  very  good.  Third  prize 
was  won  by  Mr.  A.  Elsee,  Hampton  HUl. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons'  prizes  for  six  plants  of 
Gloxinias  were  well  contested,  first  honours  going  to 
C.  M.  Bartlett,  Esq.,  East  Sheen,  for  a  beautiful  half- 
dozen,  E.  R.  W.  Bennett,  Esq.,  Sunbury,  and  A.  Burton, 
Esq.,  following  in  the  order  named.  Messrs.  Sutton  also 
offered  prizes  for  six  plants  of  their  single  or  double 
Begonias,  these  being  won  by  G-  Atkins,  Esq.,  East  Sheen, 
and  C.  U.  Bartlett,  Esq. 

Roses. 

The  Gunnersbury  Park  Challenge  Cup,  offered  for  forty- 
eight  Roses,  distinct,  three  blooms  of  each,  was  won  by 
Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick  Rose  Gardens, 
Colchester,  with  some  very  good  flowers  considering  the 
bad  weather  of  the  past.  Charles  J.  Grahame,  Lady 
Ashtown,  Captain  Hay  ward,  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert, 
Joseph  Lowe  and  Liberty  were  a  few,  among  others,  that 
attracted  much  attention.  Messrs.  Cant  were  the  only 
exhibitors  in  this  class. 

For  twelve  Roses  of  one  variety  there  were  four  entries, 
Messrs.  W.  and  J,  Brown,  Peterborough,  being  placed  flrst 
for  a  good  dozen  of  Mildred  Grant.  Second  prize  went  to 
Mr.  Robert  Browning,  Sunbury,  Middlesex,  for  Richmond ; 
and  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co. ,  Braiswick  Rose  Gardens, 
Colchester,  were  third  for  Lady  Ashtown. 

For  twelve  Tea  Roses,  one  variety,  Messrs.  W,  and  J. 
Brown  were  the  only  competitors,  with  small  blooms  of 
Mar6chal  Niel,  for  which  they  secured  first  prize. 

In  the  class  for  twenty-four  Roses,  distinct,  single 
blooms  (amateurs  only),  there  were  two  entries,  flrst  prize 
going  to  W.  C.  Romaine,  Esq.,  The  Priory,  Old  Windsor 
(gardener,  Mr.  J.  Guttridge),  for  a  good  lot  of  flowers, 
among  which  Mrs.  J.  Laing,  Dupuy  Jamain  and  K.  A. 
Victoria  called  for  special  mention.  Second  prize  went  to 
E.  Elliott,  Esq.,  Teddington  Park,  whose  blooms  were  very 
small. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  Roses  four  competitors 
entered,  W.  C.  Romaine,  Esq.,  again  being  the  champion 
with  good  flowers.  Mr.  W.  J.  Turner,  Teddington,  and 
C.  Elliott,  Esq.,  were  second  and  third  respectively. 

In  the  class  for  twelve  Roses,  distinct,  limited  to 
exhibitors  residing  in  the  district,  there  were  five  entries, 
A.  Chancellor, Esq.,  Richmond(gardener,Mr.  F. Thornton), 
being  flrst  with  moderately  good  fiowers  ;  A.  Elsee,  Esq., 
Hampton  Hill  (gardener,  Mr.  B.  Mason),  was  second. 

In  a  similar  class  open  only  to  amateurs  not  employing 
a  gardener,  Mr.  W.  J.  Patmer,  St.  Margarets,  was  a  good 
flrst,  his  flowers  of  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Caroline  Testout  and 
La  France  being  good  ;  second  prize  went  to  Mr.  G.  J. 
Favel,  Hampton  Hill ;  and  third  to  Mr.  J.  H.  Broad. 

For  six  bunches  of  garden  Roses  there  were  three  entries, 
Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown  of  Peterborough  being  first  with 
very  good  flowers,  Betty,  Bardou  Job,  E.  Meyer  and  the 
single  Dawn  being  very  fine  ;  W.  C.  Romaine,  Esq.,  Old 
Windsor,  was  a  good  second. 

Five  exhibitors  entered  the  class  for  a  basket  of  Roses, 
flrst  prize  being  awarded  to  Mr.  W.  Hayward,  Fife  Road, 
Kingston,  for  a  very  beautifully  arranged  basket,  the 
colours  being  well  blended  and  the  flowers  of  moderately 
good  quality.  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Co.,  Richmond,  were  a 
very  close  second  with  a  splendid  basket,  third  prize 
going  to  Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown,  Peterborough,  and  an 
extra  prize  to  Miss  C.  B.  Cole,  P'eltham. 

The  prizes  for  a  bouquet  of  Roses  were  won  respectively 
by  Mrs.  Martin,  Richmond  ;  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Co.,  Rich- 
mond ;  and  the  Rev.  W.  H.  Oxley,  MA.,  Petersham, 


Sweet  Peas. 

In  Class  57,  for  six  distinct  varieties  of  Sweet  Peas,  the 
flrst  prize  went  to  the  Earl  of  Devon,  Powderham  Castle, 
near  Exeter  (gardener,  Mr.  T.H.  Bolton).  These  were  of  good 
quality,  Sutton's  Queen,  Countess  Spencer  and  Crimson 
King  being  the  best.  Second  honours  went  to  the  Earl  of 
Dysart,  Ham  House,  Petersham  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  F. 
Conway),  Constance  Oliver  being  very  good  here.  Third 
prize  went  to  A.  Elsee,  Esq.,  Hampton  Hill. 

In  a  similar  class  for  nine  varieties,  the  Earl  of  Devon 
was  again  flrst,  Elsie  Herbert,  James  Grieve  and  Audrey 
Crier  being  particularly  good.  The  Earl  of  Dysart  was 
placed  second  and  Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown  of  Peter- 
borough third. 

There  was  only  one  entry  for  the  special  prizes  offered 
by  Mr.  Robert  Sydenham  for  nine  bunches  of  Sweet  Peas, 
distinct,  this  being  exhibited  by  the  Earl  of  Dysart. 

The  Earl  of  Dysart  was  the  only  exhibitor  for  Messrs. 
Webb  and  Son's  prizes  offered  for  six  bunches  of  Sweet 
Peas,  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes,  Miss  Collier  and  Lord  Nelson 
being  the  best  varieties  shown. 

Herbaceous  Flowers. 

Five  exhibitors  entered  the  class  for  twenty-four 
bunches  of  hardy  herbaceous  cut  flowers,  L.  Ward,  Esq, , 
Petersham  (gard^^ner,  Mr.  A.  Allum),  being  first  with  a 
good  lot,  in  which  Lilies,  Campanulas,  Gladioli  and 
Pyrethrums  were  well  shown.  Second  honours  went  to 
the  Earl  of  Dysart,  who  also  showed  flowers  in  good 
condition. 

Vegetables  and  Fruit. 

For  a  collection  of  twelve  dishes  of  vegetables,  distinct 
kinds,  there  were  two  entries,  the  first  prize  going  to  the 
Earl  of  Dysart,  Ham  House,  Petersham,  with  a  good 
collection,  in  which  Peas,  Potatoes,  Beetroot  and  Carrots 
were  well  shown.  In  some  respects  the  second -prize 
group  shown  by  the  Earl  of  Devon  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  H. 
Bolton),  was  best,  the  arrangement,  however,  not  bein  so 
good.  The  Peas,  Broad  Beans,  Tomatoes  and  Carrot  in 
this  group  were  first-class. 

There  were  two  entries  for  Messrs.  Carter  and  o.'s 
prizes  offered  for  a  collection  of  vegetables,  nine  dis  ict 
varieties,  the  first-prize  group  coming  from  the  Ea  of 
Dysart.  Beetroot,  Cucumbers  and  Carrots  were  very  ood 
here.  Second  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  R.  K  3ne, 
Richmond. 

The  Earl  of  Dysart  was  the  only  exhibitor  in  the  lass 
for  a  collection  of  vegetables,  six  distinct  kinds  (j  izes 
offered  by  Messrs.  Webb  and  Sons),  and  the  same  exhibitor 
was  flrst  in  the  class  for  Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  ■'■■' jns' 
prizes,  second  honours  going  to  Sir  W.  Greenwell,  Lait., 
Caterham  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Lintott),  Vegetables  were 
well  shown  in  some  of  the  cottagers'  classes,  but  lark  of 
space  forbids  detailed  mention  of  these. 

For  a  collection  of  six  dishes  of  fruit,  distinct  kinds,  the 
Earl  of  Dysart  was  the  only  exhibitor,  the  black  Grapes, 
Melon,  Peaches  and  Nectarines  being  good. 

Four  exhibitors  tried  conclusions  in  the  class  for  three 
bunches  of  black  Grapes,  first  honours  going  to  Sir  W. 
Greenwell,  Bart.,  Caterham  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Lintott), 
for  three  large  and  well-finished  bunches  of  Btacic 
Hamburgh.  W.  G.  Raphael,  Esq.,  Englefield  Green 
(gardener,  Mr.  H.  H.  Brown),  was  second  and  Messrs.  W. 
and  E.  Wells,  Hounslow,  third. 

In  a  similar  class  for  white  Grapes,  W.  G.  Raphael,  Esq., 
was  a  good  flrst  with  large  bunches  of  Buckland  Sweetwater, 
Sir  W.  Greenwell,  Bart.,  and  Mrs.  Vaughan  Arbuckle 
following  in  the  order  named.  W.  G.  Raphael,  Esq.,  was 
first  for  nine  Nectarines,  the  varieties  being  Early  Rivers' ; 
and  Messrs.  W.  and  E.  Wells  were  flrst  for  nine  Peaches, 
medium-sized  fruits  of  Crimson  Galande  being  shown. 
F.  H.  Cook,  Esq.,  Guildford  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  Mitchelson), 
was  flrst  for  a  single  Melon. 

Four  exhibitors  entered  the  class  for  two  dishes  of  Straw- 
berries, Messrs.  W.  and  E.  Wells,  Hounslow  (gardener, 
Mr.  0.  Thompson),  being  flrst  with  good  examples  of 
Royal  Sovereign  and  Leader.  H.  Riley,  Esq.,  Kew  Gardens, 
was  second  with  the  same  varieties,  the  Earl  ef  Dysart 
being  third  with  The  Laxton  and  Royal  Sovereign. 

NON-COMPETITn''E   EXHIBITS. 

Mr.  W.  H.  Page,  Tangley  Nurseries,  Hampton,  showed  a 
very  fine  group  of  Carnations  and  Lilies,  a  beautiful  mass 
of  rambler  Roses  being  placed  at  each  end.  The  flowers 
shown  were  all  of  very  good  quality  indeed  and  com- 
prised all  the  best-known  Carnations.    Gold  medal. 

Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware,  Limited,  of  Feltham  had  a  splendid 
display  of  herbaceous  cut  fiowers,  Eremuri,  Paeonies, 
Lilies,  Heucheras,  Phlox  White  Swan  and  many  ethers 
being  staged  in  good  condition.  Tuberous  Begonias  were 
also  well  shown  by  Messrs.  Ware,  the  large  blossoms  and 
bright  colours  of  these  attracting  much  attention.  Gold 
medal. 

Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown  of  Peterborough  staged  a  small 
group  of  well-grown  Roses,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Richmond, 
Dr.  J.  C.  Hall,  Lady  Battersea  and  Pharisaer  being  in 
splendid  condition.    Silver  medal. 

Mr.  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond,  staged  a  large  group  of 
hardy  fiowering  and  foliage  shrubs,  these  being  displayed 
in  a  most  tasteful  manner  and  comprising  many  choice 
things.    Gold  medal. 

Mr.  H.  E.  Fordhara,  Twickenham,  arranged  a  fine  semi- 
circular group  of  Gloxinias  on  the  floor,  these  being  of 
good  quality  and  embracing  many  beautiful  colours. 
Silver  medal. 

From  Mr.  William  Thompson,  Sheen  Nurseries,  Rich- 
mond, came  a  well-arranged  group  of  Japanese  Maples, 
Palms,  Ferns,  Hydrangeas,  Pelargoniums,  Roses,  &c.,  the 
whole  forming  a  very  handsome  exhibit. 

The  beautiful  group  of  Roses  and  Lilies  in  pots  shown 
by  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea,  was  a 
centre  of  attraction  the  whole  afternoon,  plants  and 
flowers  being  of  high  quality  and  the  arrangement  quite 
up  to  the  firm's  usual  high  standard-    Gold  medal. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  July  10, 1909. 


THE    NATIONAL    ROSE    SHOW. 


THE  aunual  metropolitan  exhibition  in 
connexion  with  the  above  society  was 
held  in  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens, 
Regent's  Park,  on  Friday,  the  2nd 
inst. ,  when  a  large  number  of  visitors 
attended  to  see  the  blooms.  Her 
Majesty  Queen  Alexandra  (the  Patroness)  accom- 
panied by  H.R.H.  Princess  Victoria,  attended 
the  opening  of  the  show  and  spent  a  considerable 
time  inspecting  the  Roses.  Owing  to  the  adverse 
weather  previously  experienced,  the  quality  of 
the  flowers  was  much  below  the  usual  standard, 
very  few  really  good  blooms  being  shown.  The 
catering  arrangements,  which  caused  so  much 
trouble  last  year,  were  considerably  better. 


NURSERYMEN'S    CLASSES. 
General   Section. 

In  the  nurserymen's  championship  class,  for 
seventy-two  blooms,  distinct,  there  were  six 
entries,  first  prize  going  to  Messrs.  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons,  Newtownards,  for  a  really  good  lot  of 
flowers,  Rhea  Reid,  Mrs.  David  McKee,  Ulrioh 
Brunner,  Lady  Barham,  A.  K.  Williams,  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert,  Charles  Grahame  and  Geo. 
Dickson  being  a  few  of  the  most  noticeable 
blooms  in  the  exhibit.  Second  honours  fell  to 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Old  Rose  Gardens, 
Colchester,  who  also  had  a  good  collection  of 
blooms,  these  being,  however,  a  little  smaller 
than  the  first-prize  group.  Caroline  Testout, 
Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  John 
Cuff,  Mme.  Ravary,  Hugh  Watson  and  Ulrich 
Brunner  were  a  few  of  the  best  here.  Messrs. 
Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick  Rose  Nurseries, 
Colchester,  were  third.  Frau  Karl  Drusohki, 
Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and 
White  Maman  Coehet  were  a  few  that  we 
noticed  in  this  collection  as  being  better  than 
most.  Fourth  prize  was  allocated  to  the  King's 
Acre  Nurseries,  Limited,  Hereford. 

For  forty  triplets,  distinct  varieties,  competi- 
tion was  good.  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons 
were  again  the  champions,  their  flowers  here 
being  very  good  considering  the  season ,  Robert 
Scott,  Rhea  Reid,  General  McArthur,  Ulrich 
Brunner,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Donegal  (a  lovely 
nev  cerise  variety),  Charles  J.  Grahame  and 
Lady  Ashtown  being  especially  noticeable. 
Second  prize  fell  to  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co., 
Braiswick  Rose  Gardens,  Colchester,  Liberty, 
Suzanne  Marie  Rodoeanachi  and  Captain  Hay- 
ward  being  the  best  blooms  shown.  Third  prize 
was  won  by  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons. 

For  forty-eight  blooms,  distinct,  there  were 
six  competitors,  first  honours  falling  to  Mr. 
George  Prince,  Longworth,  Berks.  In  his  collec- 
tion we  specially  noticed  Captain  Hayward, 
Betty,  Frau  Karl  Drusohki  and  Muriel  Grahame. 
Second  prize  was  awarded  to  Messrs.  George 
Mount  and  Sons  of  Canterbury,  whose  exhibit 
contained  Frau  Karl  Drusohki,  Ulrioh  Brunner 
and  Mrs.  David  McKee  in  moderately  good  con- 
dition. Third  and  fourth  prizes  were  won 
respectively  by  Mr.  W.  Leggett,  West  Bergholt, 
Colchester;  and  Messrs.  J.  Burrell  and  Co., 
Home  House  Nurseries,  Cambridge. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twenty-four  blooms,  no 
less  than  eleven  competitors  tried  conclusions, 
first  honours  falling  to  Mr.  Henry  Drew,  Long- 
worth,  Berks,  for  a  really  good  two  dozen. 
Countess  of  Annesley,  Oberhofgartner  Terks 
and  K.  A.  Victoria  were  three  of  the  best.  Mr. 
E.  J.  Hicks,  Twyford,  Berks,  was  a  good 
second,  his  blooms  of  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill,  Pharisser 
and  the  Lyon  Rose  being  especially  attractive. 
Messrs.  Perkins  and  Sons  of  Coventry  were 
placed  third. 


In  Class  5,  for  sixteen  triplets,  distinct,  there 
were  seven  entries,  first  prize  being  well  won 
by  Messrs.  George  Mount  and  Sons,  who  had 
Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Ulrich  Brunner,  Mme. 
Melaine  Soupert  and  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt 
in  good  condition.  Second  prize  went  to  Mr. 
George  Prince,  Longworth,  Berks,  and  third  to 
Mr.  Henry  Drew. 

Tea  and  Noisette  Section. 

The  D'ombrain  Cup,  offered  for  twenty-four 
blooms,  distinct,  brought  four  competitors,  the 
champion  being  Mr.  George  Prince,  who  had 
good  examples  of  Muriel  Grahame,  Mme.  Con- 
stant Soupert,  White  Maman  Cochetand  Cleopatra. 
Mr.  Henry  Drew  was  second,  his  box  containing 
good  blooms  of  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and  Mme.  .Jules 
Gravereaux.  Third prizefelltoMr.  JohnMattook, 
New  Headington,  Oxford. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  blooms  there 
were  three  entries,  Messrs.  J.  Burrell  and  Co., 
Cambridge,  being  placed  first.  In  this  dozen 
we  noticed  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  in  good 
form.  Second  and  third  prizes  were  won  respec- 
tively by  Messrs.  George  Mount  and  Sons  and 
Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown,  Peterborough. 

For  fourteen  distinct  varieties,  three  blooms  of 
each,  to  be  shown  in  fourteen  vases,  three  groups 
were  staged,  Mr.  George  Prince  being  a  good 
first,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and  White  Maman  Coehet 
being  his  besf.  Mr.  H.  Drew  was  second.  White 
Maman  Coehet  being  good  here  also,  though 
small.     Mr.  John  Mattock  was  third. 

Exhibition  Roses  in  Vases. 
For  twelve  distinct  varieties,  to  include  not 
more  than  six  varieties  of  Teas,  seven  blooms  of 
each,  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Sons  of  Colchester 
were  first.  Maman  Coehet,  Mme.  .Jules  Grave- 
reaux, Ulrich  Brunner,  Bessie  Brown  and  Dean 
Hole  were  the  best  in  this  group.  Second 
honours  went  to  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
Newtownards,  who  had  Ulrioh  Brunner  and 
Lady  Ashtown  in  good  form.  The  Devon 
Rosery  and  Fruit  Farm,  Torquay,  were  third. 
In  a  similar  class  for  nine  distinct  varieties  of 
Teas  there  were  three  entries,  Mr.  .John  Mattock, 
New  Headington,Oxford,  being  placed  first.  White 
Maman  Coehet  and  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  were  the 
two  best  sorts.  Mr.  H.  Drew  was  second,  his 
exhibit  containing  good  examples  of  Muriel 
Grahame,  Medea  and  Maman  Coehet ;  Mr.  G. 
Prince  was  third. 

Decorative  Roses. 

In  the  class  for  thirty-six  distinct  varieties, 
not  less  than  three  or  more  than  seven  trusses  of 
each  variety,  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.  were 
a  good  first,  but  the  sun  shining  full  on  the 
flowers  quickly  spoilt  them.  Ecarlate,  Edu 
Meyer,  Rosette  de  Legion  d'Honneur,  Gustave 
Regis,  Lady  Battersea,  Griiss  an  Teplitz  and 
Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill  were  a  few  of  the  best  sorts. 
Second  honours  fell  to  Mr.  .John  Mattock  tor  a 
well-arranged  group,  in  which  we  specially 
noticed  Lady  Waterlow,  Bellefleur,  Gustave 
Regis,  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg  and  Irish 
Glory.     Mr.  G.  Prince  was  a  good  third. 

In  a  similar  class  for  eighteen  varieties,  Mr. 
Charles  Turner  of  Slough  won  first  prize  in  good 
style,  Ecarlate,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Richmond, 
Papa  Gontier  and  Mme.  Ravary  all  being  good. 
Messrs.  W.  Spooner  and  Son,  Woking,  were 
second.  Lady  Waterlow  and  Rosette  de  Legion 
d'Honneur  being  well  shown  in  this  group.  Third 
prize  was  allocated  to  Messrs.  George  Cooling 
and  Sons,  Bath. 

For  eighteen  distinct  varieties  of  summer- 
flowering  Roses  (Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid 
Teas,  Teas  and  Chinas  not  admissible)  the  exhibit 


from  Mr.  Charles  Turner  was  again  adjudged  the 
best.  Rosa  Mundi,  Red  Damaak,  Common  Moss 
and  Crimson  Damask  were  all  excellent.  Messrs. 
George  Cooling  and  Sons  were  second  with  an 
attractive  group. 

In  the  class  for  eleven  distinct  varieties,  not 
less  than  three  sprays  of  each,  to  be  shown  in 
vases,  competition  was  very  good,  Messrs. 
George  Mount  and  Sons  being  the  champions 
with  a  lovely  group,  which  included  Liberty, 
Dorothy  Perkins,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Richmond 
and  Gustave  Regis  in  excellent  form.  Second 
prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  John  Mattock,  who 
had  excellent  examples  of  Bellefleur,  and  third 
prize  went  to  Mr.  George  Prince. 

Groups  of  Roses. 

For  a  representative  group  placed  on  the  floor, 
to  include  as  far  as  possible  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
Hybrid  Teas,  Teas,  Noisettes,  Chinas,  Poly- 
anthas,  kc,  pot  plants  and  cut  flowers  to  be 
included.  Hobbies,  Limited,  Dereham,  Norfolk, 
were  awarded  the  first  honours  of  a  gold  medal 
and  £5  for  a  really  wonderful  and  comprehensive 
group  of  splendid  flowers  and  plants,  ramblers 
being  chiefly  employed,  a  few  small  suspended 
baskets  and  vases  placed  on  the  floor  being  filled 
with  cut  flowers.  Lady  Gay,  Galaxy,  Delight, 
Coquina,  Hiawatha  and  Dorothy  Perkins  were  a 
few  of  the  most  conspicuous  varieties  shown. 
Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  The  Old  Rose  Nurseries, 
Cheahunt,  were  second,  this  group  also  being 
good,  but  including  more  cut  flowers  than  the 
first-prize  group.  The  new  rambler  Ariel,  a 
large  pink  single  variety  with  yellow  stamens, 
was  well  shown  in  plant  form. 

In  a  similar  class  for  a  representative  group  of 
cut  Roses,  to  be  placed  on  staging,  competition 
was  good,  the  gold  medal  and  first  prize  being 
well  won  by  Messrs.  George  Mount  and  Sons  of 
Canterbury  with  a  group  of  very  high  artistic 
merit.  Tall  ramblers  formed  a  pretty  back- 
ground, cut  flowers  being  most  tastefully 
arranged  in  front.  Among  the  latter  Richmond, 
Joseph  Lowe,  Gustave  Regis  and  Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert  were  most  attractive.  Second  honours  fell 
to  Mr.  John  Mattock,  New  Headington,  Oxford, 
whose  group  was  also  a  very  pretty  though 
rather  crowded  one,  Mme.  Ravary,  Mme.  Jules 
Grolez,  Rosa  Mundi,  Bardou  Job,  Liberty, 
Richmond,  and  a  host  of  other  good  and 
interesting  sorts  being  included.  Third  prize 
went  to  Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown  of  Peterborough, 
whose  group  was  also  a  praiseworthy  one. 


OPEN    TO    ALL    NURSERYMEN    AND 

AMATEURS. 

General  Section. 

For  eighteen  blooms  of  any  crimson  Rose,  to 
be  shown  in  a  Bamboo  stand,  there  were  six 
entries,  Mr.  E.  J.  Hicks  of  Twyford,  Berks, 
winning  first  prize  with  good  blooms  of  Richmond. 
Second  prize  went  to  the  King's  Acre  Nurseries, 
Limited,  Hereford,  and  third  to  Messrs.  B.  R. 
Cant  and  Sons,  each  staging  the  same  variety. 

In  a  similar  class  for  any  white  or  yellow  Rose, 
ten  competitors  staged  blooms,  first  honours  going 
to  Messrs.  S.  McGreedy  and  Son,  Portadown, 
Ireland,  for  very  clean  blooms  of  Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert.  The  Devon  Rosery  and  Fruit  Farm, 
Torquay,  were  second  with  Frau  Karl  Druschki, 
most  of  the  flowers  being  very  good  indeed. 
Messrs.  Hugh  Dickson  and  Son  of  Belfast  were 
third. 

In  a  similar  class  for  any  Rose  other  than 
white,  yellow,  or  crimson,  the  entries  were  very 
numerous  indeed,  Mr.  W.  Bentley,  Belgrave, 
Leicester,  being  placed  first  for  good  flowers  of 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  July  10, 1909 


Lady  Faire.  Second  honours  were  awarded  to 
Messrs.  A.  Diokson  and  Sons,  Newtownards, 
for  highly  coloured  blooms  of  Lady  Ashtown, 
and  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons  were  placed 
third  for  Mrs.  J   Liing 

Only  two  exhibitors  entered  the  class  for 
twelve  blooms  of  White  Maman  Cochet,  the  first- 
prize  dozen  being  shown  by  Messrs.  Frank  Cant 
and  Co.,  Braiswick  Rose  Gardens,  Colchester, 
the  flowers  being  rather  small  but  of  good  shape. 
The  second-prize  lot  was  shown  by  Messrs.  D. 
Prior  and  Son  of  Colchester.  The  class  for 
twelve  blooms  of  Frau  Karl  Drusehki  and  twelve 
of  J.  B.  Clark  only  brought  forth  two  exhibits, 
the  first- prize  box  coming  from  Messrs.  D.  Prior 
and  Son  of  Colchester,  who  had  some  good  Frau 
Karl  Druschkis.  The  second-prize  exhibit  was 
shown  by  Messrs.  George  Mount  and  Sons. 

For  nine  blooms  of  any  new  Rose,  Messrs.  A. 
Dickson  and  Sons  were  first  out  of  a  large 
number  of  exhibitors  with  Lidy  Vincent,  a 
pointed  Rose  of  rich  cream  and  blush  pink 
colouring.  Second  prize  went  to  Messrs.  Hugh 
Dickson  of  Belfast  for  W.  R.  Smith,  a  creamy 
white  pointed  variety.  Mr.  George  Prince  was 
third  with  the  Lyon  Rose. 

For  twelve  blooms,  distinct  varieties,  of  new 
Roses  offered  for  the  first  time  by  nurserymen 
in  the  British  Isles  in  1906,  there  were  a  large 
number  of  exhibits,  Messrs.  Hugh  Diokson, 
Belfast,  being  first.  Among  their  flowers  we 
specially  noticed  Misa  Cynthia  Ford  (a  rich 
salmon  pink  variety),  W.  R.  Smith  (a  Tea  some- 
what resembling  White  Maman  Cochet)  and  the 
Lyon  Rose.  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons  were 
second,  Walter  Speed  (creamy  white).  Lady 
UrsuU  (faint  blush  pink)  and  Rhea  Reid  being 
very  good  here.  Messrs.  Perkins  and  Sons  of 
Coventry  were  third. 

In  the  class  for  new  seedlisg  Roses  Messrs. 
Hugh  Diokson  of  Belfast  won  the  gold  medal 
for  Countess  of  Shaftesbury,  a  beautiful  deep 
bloom  of  rich  oerise  pink  colouring  m  the  centre, 
the  outer  petals  being  tinted  almost  silvery  pink. 
The  foliage  is  large  and  robust  and  of  a  deep  green 
tinted  crimson  hue.  Another  gold  medal  variety 
was  named  Lady  Pirrie,  a  beautiful  pointed  Rose 
possessing  the  same  rich  colouring  as  the  Lyon 
Rose,  but  the  salmon  pink  hue  was  more  pro- 
nounced. Muriel  Johnson,  a  single  apricot- 
coloured  variety,  also  shown  by  Mr.  Hugh 
Dickson,  received  a  card  of  commendation. 
Mrs.  Herbert  Stevens,  a  lovely  pointed,  very 
full,  creamy  white  Rose  of  rich  fragrance,  was 
shown  by  Messrs.  S.  McGreedy  and  Sons, 
Portadown  ;  Thelma,  a  single-flowered  hybrid 
wiehuraiana  of  deep  and  very  red  hue,  the 
colour  fading  away  at  the  base  of  the  petals 
and  the  stamens  being  yellow,  shown  by  Messrs. 
W.  Spooner  and  Sons,  Woking  ;  Climbing  Lidy 
Ashtown,  a  climbing  form  of  this  well  known 
Rose,  shown  by  Mr.  F.  Bradley,  Peterborough  ; 
and  Monaghan,  a  large  rich  crimson  single  with 
enormous  foliage,  and  shown  by  J.  Campbell 
Hall,  Esq.,  Rowantree,  Monaghan,  each  received 
a  card  of  commendation. 

The  first  prize  for  an  arch  decorated  with 
long  sprays  of  not  more  than  two  sorts  of 
climbing  Roees  was  won  by  Hobbies,  Limited, 
Dereham,  Norfolk. 

For  a  set  of  three  sprays  of  Roses  suitable  for 
ladies'  wear,  Mrs.  0.  G.  Orpen,  West  Bergholt, 
Cobhester,  and  Mrs.  F.  H.  Cooke,  Birch,  Col- 
chester, were  placed  equal  first,  third  prize 
going  to  Mr.  John  Mattock. 

Section  for  Decorati\b  Rosks. 
For  twelve  distinct  varieties  of  single-flowered 
Roses,  to  be  arranged  loosely  in  vases,  there  were 
four  groups  staged, first  prizebeing  won  by  Messrs. 
Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick  Rose  Gardens, 
Calehester,  with  a  charming  group ;  Irish  Beauty, 
Morgenrot,  Crimson  Damask  and  Irish  Glory 
were  a  few  that  appealed  to  us  here.  Messrs.  W. 
Spooner  and  Sons,  Woking,  were  placed  second, 
and  third  prize  went  to  Messrs.  G.  Coolins  and 
Sons,  Bith.  ^ 


For  a  decoration  of  cut  Roses  for  dinner-table 
decoration  (ladies  only),  first  prize  went  to  Miss 
M.  Foden,  Marlowes  Nursery,  Hemel  Hemp- 
stead, for  a  very  pretty  design  of  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay.  Second  and  third  prizes  in  this  class 
were  won  respectively  by  Miss  E.  P.  Butcher, 
Ipswich,  and  Miss  Ada  Towneend,  Worcester. 
For  a  bowl  of  out  Roses  the  prizes  were  won  by 
Miss  Ada  Townsend ;  Miss  A.  R.  Bide,  Farnham  ; 
and  Miss  M.  Harkness,  Hitchin,  in  the  order 
named. 


AMATEURS. 
General  Seotion. 

The  Champion  Trophy  class  in  the  amateurs' 
division  for  thirty-six  blooms,  distinct  varieties, 
was  won  by  Mr.  Conway  Jones,  Huccleeote, 
Gloucester,  with  a  beautiful  series  considering 
the  season.  He  led  the  four  entrants  with  beau- 
tiful examples  of  J.  B.  Clark,  Captain  Hayward, 
Gustave  Piganeau,  A.  K.  Williams,  Caroline 
Testout  and  C.  J.  <  irahame.  Mr.  E.  J.  Holland, 
Sutton,  Surrey,  was  placed  second  with  a  number 
of  useful  blooms  ;  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  Mrs. 
W.  J.  (irant,  Mildred  Grant  and  Yvonne 
Vacherot  were  conspicuous  flowers.  The  former 
champion,  Mr.  E.  B.  Lindsell,  Bearton,  Hitchin, 
was  placed  third  with  a  bright  lot  of  flowers  ; 
Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and  Mildred  Grant  (very  beauti- 
ful) were  noteworthy  examples  in  this  stand. 
The  Rev.  J.  H.  Pembarton,  Havering-atte-Bower, 
Essex,  was  fourth. 

In  Class  .32,  for  twenty-four  distinct  varieties, 
there  were  but  two  entries.  Of  these  Mr.  Alfred 
Tate,  Downside,  Leatherhead,  was  first  with  an 
interesting  series ;  Captain  Hayward,  Mildred 
Grant,  Richmond  and  Horace  Vernet  were  good. 
Second  prize  was  awarded  to  the  Rev.  T.  G.  W. 
Henslow,  Stanton  St.  Quintin,  Chippenham, 
with  a  bright  lot  of  flowers. 

In  Class  .S3,  for  twelve  distinct  varieties, 
three  blooms  of  each,  there  were  again  pnly 
two  entries.  In  this  instance  Mr.  Conway 
Jones  was  again  placed  in  the  leading  position 
with  a  number  of  good  blooms.  Captain  Hay- 
ward, Hugh  Dickson,  C.  J.  Grahame,  Ulrich 
Brunner  and  Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford 
were  some  of  the  best.  Mr.  E.  J.  Holland  was 
second  with  an  attractive  exhibit.  Mildred 
Grant,  Mrs.  .John  Laing,  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert 
and  White  Maman  Cochet  were  good  examples. 

In  Class  34,  for  nine  blooms  of  any  Rose,  Tea- 
scented  or  Noisette,  there  were  three  exhibits. 
The  Rev.  .1.  H.  Pemberton  was  first  with  fairly 
good  examples  of  Bessie  Brown  ;  Mr.  Holland 
second  with  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant ;  and  Mr.  G.  A. 
Hammond,  Cambrian  House,  Burgess  Hill,  third 
with  Mrs.  John  Laing.  The  first  prize  in  this 
class  was  offered  by  Messrs.  Thomas  Rivers  and 
Sons,  Sawbridgeworth. 

In  Class  35,  for  twenty-four  blooms,  distinct 
varieties,  there  were  again  only  two  entries. 
The  first  prize  and  Veitoh  Memorial  Medal  were 
well  won  by  Mr.  E.  M.  Eversfield,  Denne  Park, 
Horsham.  His  blooms  of  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert, 
Helen  Keller  and  Mrs.  Sharman  Crawford  were 
noteworthy.  Second  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  C.  C 
Williamson,  Wilstead,  Canterbury.  This  and 
the  two  succeeding  classes  were  open  to  growers 
of  fewer  than  3,0(iO  plants. 

In  Class  3(3,  for  twelve  distinct  trebles,  Mr. 
Eversfield  was  again  first,  being  the  only 
entrant.  Ciroline  Testout,  Ulrich  Brunner  and 
Dean  Hole  were  the  best  of  the  series.  The  same 
exhibitor  was  first  in  Class  37,  for  nine  blooms 
of  any  Rose  except  Tea  or  Noisette.  He  staged 
fair  examples  of  Lady  Ashtown. 

(Growers  of  fewer  than  2,000  plants  showed 
very  well  indeed.  The  Christey  Challenge  Cup 
and  first  prize  were  won  by  Mr.  W.  R.  Hammond, 
who  had  a  wonderfully  bright  and  interesting 
series  of  blooms  ;  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Mamie, 
Boadieea,  J.  B.  Clark,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux 
and  G  ustave  Piganeau  were  all  excellent  examples. 
This  was  one  of  the  best-contested  classes,  there 
being  no  less  than  six  entries.     The  Rev.  A.  L. 


Fellowes,  Bunwell  Rectory,  Attleborough,  was  a 
good  second,  a  superb  bloom  of  .1.  B.  Clark  being 
conspicuous.  Third  prize  was  secured  by  Mr. 
R.  Pawley,  Upper  Soudamore,  Warminster,  who 
had  Comtesse  de  Nadaillao,  Maman  Cochet  and 
Mme.  Melanie  Soupert  in  charming  form. 

There  were  five  entries  in  Class  39,  for  eight 
distinct  varieties,  three  blooms  of  each.  First 
prize  was  secured  by  Mrs.  E.  Croft  Murray, 
Perivale,  Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight,  with  a  charming 
lot  of  blooms.  .J.  B.  Clark,  Frau  Karl  I>rusohki, 
Tom  Wood,  Mrs.  J.  Laing  and  White  Maman 
Coohet  were  represented  in  beautiful  condition. 
Messrs.  George  R.  Bonner,  Tillingbourne,  Barn- 
wood,  (Uouuester,  was  second,  having  Mildred 
Grant,  Mrs.  J.  Laing  and  Oberhofgiirtner  Terks 
in  excellent  condition.  Third  prize  was  won  by 
Mr.  G.  Speight,  Market  Harborough,  with  a  rather 
poor  lot. 

The  four  entries  in  Class  40,  for  eight 
trebles,  made  a  good  display.  First  prize  was 
won  by  the  Rev.  R.  Powley  ;  Captain  Hayward, 
Caroline  Testout  and  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux 
were  his  best  flowers.  Mr.  F.  Slaughter  was 
placed  second  with  neat  Frau  Karl  Drusehki 
among  others,  and  Mr.  W.  Colin  Romaine, 
The  Priory,  Old  Windsor,  was  third  with  a 
very  bright  series  of  blooms.  Mrs.  E.  Croft 
Murray  was,  unfortunately,  disqualified  in  this 
class.     She  had  superb  flowers. 

Mrs.  W.  R.  Hammond  had  the  run  of  four 
exhibitors  in  the  class  for  seven  blooms  of  any 
Rose  except  Tea  or  Noisette,  showing  Lady 
Ashtown  fairly  well.  Good  blooms  of  Mrs.  John 
Laing  won  second  prize  for  Mr.  W.  Colin 
Romaine,  and  Mr.  .John  Hart,  Lochinver,  Little 
Heath,  was  third  with  a  brilliant  Rose. 

For  classes  to  suit  growers  of  fewer  than 
1,000  plants,  the  seven  entries  in  Class  42 
made  a  capital  display  ;  this  was  for  twelve 
blooms  distinct.  First  prize  was  won  by  Dr. 
Charles  Lamplough,  Kirkstall,  Alverstoke,  with 
a  box  of  beautiful  blooms,  Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert,  Caroline  Testout;  Bessie  Brown  and 
Mrs.  John  Laing  being  very  handsome.  Second 
prize  was  won  by  the  Rev.  .J.  B.  Shackle, 
Dropmore  Vicarage,  Maidenhead,  with  a  fine 
lot  of  flowers  ;  Mildred  Grant  and  Mrs.  Mawley 
were  charming.  Third  prize  was  awarded  to 
Mr.  A.  C.  Turner,  The  White  House,  Walton- 
on-Thames,  who  had  a  very  handsome  series  ; 
Mrs.  .John  Laing  was  lovely. 

In  Class  43,  for  five  blooms  in  a  vase,  there  were 
two  exhibits.  Mr.  C.  F.  H.  Leslie,  Upcombe, 
Hertford,  was  first  with  Charles  J.  Grahame;  and 
the  Rev.  J.  B.  Shackle  second  with  Mildred 
Grant  in  fair  condition. 

Classes  for  growers  of  fewer  than  7.50  plants 
were  pleasing.  Of  the  four  exhibits  of  twelve 
blooms,  distinct,  Mr.  Harry  Richards,  West 
Ridge,  Ryde,  was  first  with  a  beautiful  lot  of 
blooms.  The  best  flowers  were  Bessie,  Cleopatra, 
Mildred  Grant,  Marquis  Litta,  Mrs.  John  Laing, 
Caroline  Testout,  Dean  Hole,  Lady  Ashtown, 
Her  Majesty,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Hugh 
Diokson  and  The  Bride.  This  was  one  of  the 
finest  exhibits  in  the  show.  A  much  less 
meritorious  box  of  blooms  won  second  prize  for 
Mr.  E.  B.  Lehmann,  Ifield  Lodge,  Crawley, 
Sussex,  in  which  a  good  J.  B.  Clark  was  con- 
spicuous. Third  prize  was  secured  by  the  Rev. 
F.  R.  Burnside,  Great  Stambridge  Rectory, 
Essex,  a  grand  Mildred  Grant  being  in  evidence 
here.  The  first  prize  was  the  Grahame  Memorial 
Prize,  being  a  piece  of  plate. 

Class  45,  for  five  blooms  in  a  vase,  was  a  some- 
what poor  display.  The  Rev.  F.  R.  Burnside  was 
first  with  Mildred  Grant,  and  Viscountess  Enfield 
was  second  with  La  France. 

One  exhibit  only  was  forthcoming  in  the  class 
for  six  distinct  varieties,  three  blooms  of  each. 
This  easily  secured  the  first  prize  for  Dr. 
Lamplough  ;  Mrs.  .John  Laing  and  Bessie  Brown 
were  the  best  in  this  collection. 

For  growers  of  fewer  than  500  plants  there 
was,  as  usual,  a  pretty  display.  In  Class  47,  in 
competition  for  the  Ben  Cint  Memorial  Prize,  to 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  Juhj  10,  1909. 


consist  of  nine  blooms,  distinct  varieties,  there 
were  no  less  than  thirteen  exhibits,  making  a 
most  interesting  competition.  First  prize  was 
awarded  to  Mrs.  E.  A.  Moulden,  Bandra, 
Stevenage,  for  a  very  bright  and  beautiful  lot  of 
flowers ;  Marquis  Litta,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  C.  J. 
Grahame,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and  White  Maman 
Coohet  were  all  good.  Second  prize  was  won  by 
Mr.  Vivian  Rolt,  Brook  House,  Storrington, 
Pulborough,  Sussex,  with  a  heavy  lot  of  flowers ; 
Mildred  Grant,  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant  and  Hugh  Dickson  were  capital 
specimens.  Third  prize  was  secured  by  Mr. 
Lswis  J.  Pawle,  Rowsham,  Harrow,  with  a 
pretty  set. 

Class  48,  for  six  blooms,  distinct,  had  but  five 
exhibits.  The  leading  exhibit  came  from  Mr. 
<j.  C.  Sawday,  Pjydal  Mount,  Heath  Road, 
Weybridge,  who  had  J.  B.  Clark  in  good  form. 
Second  honours  were  secured  by  Mr.  H.  Clinton, 
Bayfordbury,  Hertford,  with  a  good  bloom  of 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant.  Third  prize  was  won  by  Mr. 
J.  Gibb,  Westfield,  Reigate. 

For  five  blooms,  set  up  in  a  vase,  of  any  Rose 
except  Tea  or  Noisette  there  were  eleven 
«xhibits.  Mr.  Vivian  Rolt  was  first  with  good 
«xample3  of  Mildred  Grant ;  Mr.  J.  Gibb  was 
second  and  Mr.  Lewis  S.  Pawle  third. 

An  extra  class  for  divisions  F,  G  and  H  was 
one  for  twelve  blooms,  distinct  varieties.  First 
prize  was  won  by  Dr.  Charles  Lvmplough,  who 
had  a  bright  lot  of  good  blooms  ;  J.  B.  Clark, 
Frau  K-irl  Druschki,  Florence  Pemberton, 
Bessie  Brown  and  White  Maman  Cochet  were 
his  best  flowers.  Second  prize  was  secured  by  Mr. 
C.  F.  H.  Leslie  with  smaller  though  very  neat 
flowers.  Horace  Vernet,  Mamie  and  Mildred 
Grant  were  quite  noteworthy.'  Mr.  Vivian  Rolt 
was  third ;  io  his  stand  he  hid  a  wonderful 
example  of  Mildred  Grant. 

Classes  for  growers  of  fewer  than  350  plants 
were  the  centre  of  attraction.  Class  51  provided 
seven  exhibits.  In  this  case  Mr.  E.  F.  Brown, 
Lynton,  Sussex  Place,  Slough,  had  a  very 
interesting  display;  Dean 'Hole,  Mamie,  Mildred 
Grant  and  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  were  his  best 
flowers  and  placed  him  first.  Second  prize  was 
secured  by  Mr.  W.  P.  Panokridge,  Petersfield, 
Hants  ;  and  third  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  Alan 
Searle,  Ashton  Lodese,  Basset.  Lyon  Rose  was 
a  handsome  bloom  in  the  latter  stand. 

Five  blooms  set  up  in  a  vase  in  Class  .52  were 
represented  on  five  occasions.  The  winning 
quintet  came  from  Mr.  E.  M.  Burnett,  15,  West- 
wood  Road,  Southampton,  who  had  Lidy 
Ashtown.  Mr.  E.  F.  Brown  was  second  with 
Dean  Hole,  and  Mr.  Alan  Searle  third  with 
Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

Class  53,  for  divisions  H  and  I,  was  for  twelve 
blooms  in  four  trebles  ;  there  were  nine  entries. 
Mr.  Keppel  H.  Gift'jrd,  Edensor,  Slough,  was 
first  with  a  passable  series.  Mr.  Vivian  Rolt 
was  placed  second  with  much  larger  flowers  ;  his 
Mildred  Grant,  Lady  Ashtown  and  M.  Joseph 
Hill  were  excellent  examples.  Mr.  Lewis  S. 
Pawle  was  third. 

For  growers  of  fewer  than  200  plants  there  was 
again  a  most  satisfactory  competition  in  the  difi'er- 
ent  classes.  For  six  blooms,  distinct,  there  were  no 
less  than  seventeen  entries.  Mr.  C.  A.  L.  Brown, 
Hatfield  Peverel,  Witham,  Essex,  won  the  piece 
of  plate  offered  by  Messrs.  G.  Bunyard  and  Co. ; 
his  blooms  of  Mrs.  T.  Roosevelt,  Dean  Hole, 
John  Ruskin  and  Florence  Pemberton  were  all 
good.  Second  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  W.  G. 
Pedley,  Hillside,  Hoddesdon,  Herts,  his  bloom  of 
White  Maman  Cochet  being  lovely.  Third  prize 
was  secured  by  Mr.  Fred  Birratt,  11,  Craigton 
Road,  Welt  Hall,  Eltham. 

Class  55,  for  six  blooms  in  four  varieties, 
brought  forth  an  entrj^  of  four.  Mr.  A.  Ernest 
Prothero,  Bourne  House,  Purley,  Surrey,  was 
first,  Mr.  George  Gosling,  Stratton  Audley  Park, 
Bicester,  being  second  and  Mr.  A.  Wilkinson, 
St.  Olaves,  Granville  Road,  North  Finohley,  third. 

Nine  competitors  were  forthcoming  in  Class  56, 
for  live  blooms  shown  in  a  vase.     Mr.  W.  Fowler, 


Irvington,  Mill  Hill,  N.  W. ,  won  first  with  Captain 
Hayward  ;  Mr.  E.  W.  Morris,  Uckfield,  Sussex, 
second  with  Bessie  Brown ;  and  Mr.  Richard 
House,  Djrney  Wood,  Burnham,  Bucks,  third 
with  Captain  Hayward. 

Class  57,  for  four  distinct  varieties,  three 
blooms  of  each  kind,  found  four  exhibits.  The 
Rev.  J.  T.  Kershaw,  Corsley  Rectory,  War- 
minster, was  first  with  Bessie  Brown,  Dean  Hole, 
Mrs.  Edward  Miwley  and  Mildred  Grant.  Second 
prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  Francis  .J.  Borland, 
Stalheim,  Brunswick  Road,  Sutton,  Surrey,  and 
third  prize  was  secured  by  the  Rev.  T.  H.  Tower, 
M.V.O.,  Holy  Trinity  Rectory,  Windsor. 

Seven  entries  in  Class  58,  for  six  blooms, 
distinct  varieties,  made  a  pretty  display.  The 
challenge  cup  offered  by  Mr.  E.  R.  Smith, 
for  Roses  grown  within  eight  miles  of  Charing 
Cross,  was  this  year  won  by  Mr.  Ramon  de 
Escofet,  Kingsley  Dene,  Green  Lane,  Dulwieh, 
S.E.  Florence  Pemberton  was  the  best  bloom  in 
his  stand.  Mr.  Herbert  Whitmee,  The  Briars, 
North  Finchley,  was  a  good  second,  A.  K. 
Williams,  Gustave  Piganeau  and  Tom  Wood 
being  good  flowers.  Third  prize  was  secured  by 
Mr.  Howard  Williams,  Willow  Cottage,  Tor- 
rington  Park,  North  Finchley. 

In  Class  59,  for  six  blooms  in  four  varieties,  Mr. 
Percy  W.  Greenaway,  Como,  Gwendoline  Avenue, 
Putney,  was  first  and  Mr.  A   Wilkinson  second. 

Classes  60  to  62,  for  growers  who  have  never 
won  a  prize  at  any  show  of  the  National  Rose 
Society,  was  of  more  than  ordinary  interest.  The 
piece  of  plate  offered  by  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son 
for  twelve  blooms  was  won  by  Mr.  G.  R.  Bonner 
with  beautiful  flowers.  The  Rev.  T.  G.  W. 
Henslow  was  second  and  Mr.  Edward  Jackson, 
Sydenham  House,  Rochford,  Essex,  third. 

The  class  for  nine  blooms,  distinct,  found  Mr. 
J.  Stuart,  Broomhill,  Harrow,  leading  with 
heavy  flowers,  Mildred  Grant  being  very  fine. 
Mr.  Sydney  F.  Jackson,  Danehurst,  Epsom,  was 
second,  and  Mr.  C.  W.  Edwards,  Brentwood, 
Ringstead  Roid,  Sutton,  Surrey,  third.  The 
classes  for  six  varieties,  and  also  for  those  who  have 
joined  the  society  since  the  last  Botanic  show, 
were  all  eagerly  sought  after  by  the  large  number 
of  visitors.     The  classes  were  well  filled. 

In  Class  65,  for  twenty-four  blooms,  distinct 
varieties,  there  were  four  exhibits.  First  prize 
was  won  by  Mr.  G.  A.  Hammond,  who  had  a 
bright  and  even  series  of  blooms  ;  J.  B. 
Clark,  George  Laing  Paul,  Richmond,  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert  and  Mrs.  T.  Roosevelt  were 
conspicuously  good.  Second  prize  was  credited 
to  Mr.  Conway  .Tones  :  J.  B.  Clark  was  grand. 
Mr.  E.  M.  Eversfield  was  awarded  third  prize. 

The  silver  cup  offered  by  Messrs.  Robert 
Harkness  and  Co.  was  won  by  Mr.  W.  R. 
Hammond.  This,  Class  66,  was  for  twelve 
blooms,  distinct.  Mildred  Grant,  Bessie  Brown, 
William  Shean,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt  and 
Laurente  Carle  were  splendid.  Mr.  Alfred  Tate 
was  second  with  a  really  good  box  of  blooms. 
Captain  Hayward,  Hugh  Dickson  and  Comte  de 
Raimbaud  were  glorious.  There  were  only  two 
exhibits  in  this  class. 

Class  67,  for  nine  Teas  and  nine  Hybrid  Teas, 
was  represented  by  one  exhibitor.  This  was 
Mr.  E.  M.  Eversfield,  who  was  placed  first  with 
creditable  blooms.  Earl  of  Warwick  and  Mrs. 
E.  Mawley  were  notable  sorts. 

The  Tea  and  Noisette  Challenge  Trophy  and 
Replica,  for  eighteen  blooms,  Teas  and  Noisettes, 
distinct  varieties,  was  won  by  Mr.  Conway  Jones, 
who  was  the  only  exhibitor.  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley  and  Souv.  de  Pierre  Notting  were  good 
blooms. 

Class  71,  for  twelve  Teas  and  Noisette  blooms, 
distinct,  found  only  three  competitors.  The 
Rev.  J.  A.  L.  Fellowes,  Attleborough,  was 
placed  first  with  neat  and  even  blooms.  White 
Maman  Cochet,  Souvenir  d'Glin,  Cleopatra, 
Mme.  de  Watteville  and  Innocente  Pirola  were 
beautiful  examples.  Mr.  E.  M.  P>ersfield  was 
second  and  Mr.  Alfred  Tate  third ;  the  latter 
had  a  fine  bloom  of  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley.     The 


piece  of  plate  offered  as  first  prize  was  given  by 
Mr.  A.  E.  Prince,  Longworth. 

In  Class  76,  for  nine  blooms.  Teas  and  Noisettes, 
there  were  three  exhibitors.  First  prize  was  won 
by  Mr.  F.  Slaughter;  Manun  Cochet,  White 
Maman  Cochet,  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  Mme. 
Constance  Soupert,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Souv. 
de  Pierre  Notting  and  Boadicea  were  all  good. 
Mr.  Alfred  Evans,  Marston,  near  Oxford,  was 
second,  and  Mr.  M.  Whittle,  60,  Belgrave  Avenue, 
Balgrave,  Leicester,  third. 

Class  82,  for  five  blooms  each  of  nine  varieties, 
was  a  welcome  feature  of  the  show.  There  were 
three  exhibits,  and  they  were  all  good.  Mr. 
G.  A.  Hammond  was  a  good  first  with  a 
charming  series — Ulrich  Brunner,  Frau  Karl 
Druschki,  Mrs  T.  Roosevelt,  Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Hugh  Dickson, 
Mildred  Grant  and  Ciroline  Testout.  Mr. 
Conway  .Jones  was  second,  also  with  a  beautiful 
exhibit.  Tom  Wood  was  good  in  this  class. 
Mr.  E.  M.  Eversfield  was  third  with  an  interest- 
ing lot. 

Decorative  Exhibits. 

For  a  bowl  of  Roses  in  Class  86,  to  be  confined 
to  exhibition  Roses,  there  was  a  very  beautiful 
display.  Eight  bowls  were  set  up,  the  winning 
exhibit  being  displayed  by  Mrs.  F.  H.  Cjoke, 
Birch,  Colchester,  with  lovely  blooms  of  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant.  Mrs.  G.  C.  Sawday  was  second, 
also  with  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  but  with  pale 
blooms.  Third  prize  was  won  by  Mrs.  K.  M. 
Robinson,  Emerson  Park,  Hornchurch,  Essex, 
with  Caroline  Testout. 

Eleven  exhibits  in  Class  87,  for  a  bowl  of 
decorative  Roses,  made  a  charming  floral  picture. 
Miss  J.  B.  Lmgton,  Raymead,  Hendon,  N.  W., 
was  a  good  first  with  Dawn  well  disposed  ;  Mrs. 
0.  G.  Orpen,  Colchester,  second  with  Lidy 
Curzon  ;  and  Mrs.  Herbert  Molyneux,  Purley, 
third  with  Gustave  Regis. 

The  fourteen  exhibits  in  Class  88,  for  a  vase  of 
cut  Roses,  made  a  really  fascinating  display. 
First  prize  was  won  by  Mrs.  W.  Smith,  Bushey 
Heath,  Herts,  with  Mme.  Ravary  well  disposed ; 
Miss  J.  B.  Lington  was  second  with  a  dainty 
vase  of  the  same  variety ;  and  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley,  Berkhamsted,  third  with  beautiful 
flowers  of  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant. 

Twelve  hand  -  baskets  of  Roses  were  set 
up  in  Class  8!l.  First  prize  was  deservedly 
placed  to  the  credit  of  Mrs.  0.  G.  Orpen.  Irish 
Elegance  and  Irish  Beauty  were  charmingly 
disposed  with  nice  foliage.  Second  prize  was 
secured  by  Mrs.  F.  H.  Cooke,  Colchester,  with 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  artistically  arranged. 
Third  prize  was  won  by  Miss  Adelaide  F.  Har- 
wood,  Colchester,  again  with  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay. 

For  a  bowl  of  wichuraiana  Roses  the  four 
exhibits  were  very  pretty.  First  prize  was 
awarded  to  Mrs.  H.  C.  Duckworth,  Elmstead, 
Twickenham,  second  prize  being  secured  by 
Miss  J.  B.  Langton,  and  was  much  admired. 
Mrs.  0.  G.  Orpen  had  to  rest  content  with  third 
place  in  this  instance,  although  showing  well. 

The  eleven  bowls  of  decorative  Roses  was  a 
pleasing  feature.  Mrs.  Howard  Williams,  Torring- 
ton  Park,  North  Finchley,  won  the  silver  cup 
given  by  Mr.  Charles  E.  Shea,  showing  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay  superbly.  Second  prize  was  won 
by  Miss  E.  M.  Robinson,  showing  William  Allen 
Richardson ;  and  third  prize  was  awarded  to  Mrs. 
Vivian  Wood,  Rosemount,  Rickmansworth. 

There  were  eleven  exhibits  in  the  class  for  a 
table  decoration  on  circular  tables  6  feet  in 
diameter.  All  the  tables  were,  without  excep- 
tion, very  good.  First  prize  was  placed  to  the 
credit  of  Miss  West,  Firth  Dene,  Reigate, 
who  displayed  most  effectively  Richmond  in 
bud  and  in  open  blooms.  Second  prize  was 
secured  by  Miss  .J.  B.  Langton  with  an  associa- 
tion of  Irish  Elegance  and  Edu  Meyer,  the 
two  varieties  blending  beautifully.  Mrs.  Orpen 
was  third  with  a  very  charming  table  decoration, 
Gottfried  Keller  and  Una  being  harmoniously 
associated.      Miss  Adelaide  F.  Harwood  had  a 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  July  10,  1909. 


lovely  table  of  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  for  fourth 
prize. 

In  Class  92,  for  a  table  decoration  arranged  in 
a  space  8  feet  by  4  feet,  tliirteen  of  the  entrants 
made  a  very  beautiful  display.  Leading  honours 
rested  with  Mrs.  W.  Smith,  who  showed  Irish 
Elegance  in  superb  fashion.  This  arrangement 
was  very  charming.  This  exhibit  won  the 
piece  of  plate  offered  by  Mr.  (;)rpen.  Second 
prize  was  won  by  Mrs.  Charles  Lamplough, 
who  used  Irish  Elegance  and  Queen  Mab  together 
most  effectively.  Gottfried  Keller  as  shown  by 
Mr.  A.  T.  Booth,  Lynton,  Westbury  Road,  Wood- 
side  Park,  N.,  was  most  delightful,  and  well 
merited  the  equal  third  prize  awarded  to  Mrs. 
F.  H.  Cooke,  who  showed  a  most  dainty  arrange- 
ment. 

For  six  distinct  varieties,  not  less  than  three 
or  more  than  seven  trusses  of  each,  first  prize 
was  won  by  Edward  Mawley,  Esq.,  Rosebank, 
Berkhamsted,  with  some  excellent  flowers. 
Second  prize  went  to  C.  S.  Gordon  Clark,  Esq., 
Leatherhead. 

The  class  for  six  vases  of  Sweet  Briar  Roses, 
six  distinct  varieties,  was  a  very  pretty  one,  first 
honours  going  to  Lady  Sutton,  Benham-Valenoe, 
Newbury ;  second  to  Mrs.  E.  Home,  Reigate  ; 
and  third  to  H.  R.  Darlington,  Esq.,  Potters' 
Bar. 

For  six  vases  of  garden  or  decorative  Roses, 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas,  Teas  and 
Chinas  excluded,  first  prize  was  won  by  Miss  B. 
H.  Langton,  Hendon,  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton 
and  H.  R.  Darlington,  Esq.,  following  in  the 
order  named. 

In  the  class  for  five  distinct  varieties  of  garden 
or  decorative  Roses,  to  be  shown  in  vases,  the 
premier  award  went  to  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Shackle, 
Maidenhead,  second  and  third  prizes  being  won 
respectively  by  H.  E.  Molyneux,  Esq. ,  Purley, 
and  Miss  B.  H.  Langton,  Hendon. 

In  a  similar  class,  the  trusses  to  be  arranged 
in  Bamboo  stands,  first  honours  fell  to  0.  G. 
Orpen,  Esq.,  West  Bergholt,  Colchester,  the 
Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton  being  second  and  Miss 
B.  H.  Langton  third. 

The  Best  Blooms. 

A  silver  medal  was  awarded  to  each  of  the 
following  varieties  as  being  the  best  of  their 
class  in  the  show :  Nurserymen's  section — Hybrid 
Perpetual  A.  K.  \Villiatri8,  shown  by  Messrs.  A. 
Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards  ;  Hybrid  Tea 
Mme.  Melaine  Soupert,  shown  by  Messrs.  S. 
McGreedy  and  Sons,  Portadown,  Ireland  ;  and 
Tea  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  shown  by  Mr.  H. 
Drew  of  Oxford.  Amateurs'  section — Hybrid 
Perpetual  Mrs.  John  Laing,  shown  by  Mrs.  E. 
Croft  Murray,  Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight  ;  Hybrid  Tea 
Mildred  Grant,  shown  by  Mr.  E.  B.  Lindsell, 
Hitchin  ;  and  Tea  Maman  Cochet,  shown  by 
Mr.  F.  Slaughter,  Steyning,  Sussex. 

NON-COMPETITIVB   EXHIBITS. 

Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Bush  Hill  Park, 
Enfield,  staged  a  very  fine  group  of  Carnations 
and  Roses,  these  being  most  tastefuUj'  displayed 
and  comprising  all  the  best  varieties.  Fruits  of 
the  new  Lowberry  and  also  the  Raspberry- 
flavoured  Berry  named  Phenomenal  were  well 
shown,  the  former  being  especially  good. 

Mr.  Howard  H.  Crane,  Highgate,  N.,  had  a 
very  fine  exhibit  of  the  newer  bedding  Violas, 
these  being  very  tastefully  arranged  and  attract- 
ing much  attention  with  their  beautiful  and 
well-defined  colours. 

Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath,  Limited,  Wisbech,  staged 
high-class  Delphiniums  and  P;eonies  in  great 
variety,  the  whole  being  very  good  indeed. 

Schedules  Received. 
Hanley    Horticultural    Fete.      Secretary,    Mr.    William 

Poulson,  Town  Hall,  Hanley. 
Hie  Maidens,  Coombe  and  Worcester  Park  Horticultural 

Society.     Secretary,  Mr.  F.  Cottrall,  Estate  Oflice,  New 

Maiden. 
Higbgate  Horticultural  Society.     .Secretary,  Mr.   F.    C. 

Cawte,  3ii,  Honiesdale  Eoad,  Highgate. 


SOME  OTHER  ROSE  SHOWS, 


BRIGHTON   AND    SUSSEX    ROSE   AND    SWEET   PEA 
SHOW. 

Most  unfavourable  weather  marked  the  opening  of  this 
exhibition,  held  on  June  2'.>  and  3n  in  the  I)ome  and  Corn 
Exchange  of  the  Royal  Pavilion.  The  wet  and  gloominess 
of  the  outside  immecliately  became  dispelled  by  the  feast 
of  bloom  which  greeted  the  visitor  on  entering.  Here, 
within  the  I>ome,  were  lovely  tables  of  Sweet  Peas  and 
Carnations  in  the  centre,  while  Gloxinias,  Begonias,  &c., 
occupied  other  staging  around  the  circle.  Tastefully  set 
up  arouud  the  orchestra  platform  were  specimen  Fuchsias, 
Caladiums  and  Dracjenas,  also  Mignonette,  the  latter  being 
not  for  competition,  though  exceedingly  well  grown  in 
large  pots.  Within  the  Exchange  Sweet  Peas  formed  the 
leading  feature  and  were  generally  well  shown,  Carnations 
likewise  being  well  to  the  fore.  Koses,  unfortunately,  in 
the  various  cut  classes  were  not  well  represented,  the 
standard  being  very  low ;  Indeed,  it  was  with  difficulty 
one  could  find  a  good  bloom.  Non-competitive  exlaibits 
proved  of  immense  value  as  an  attraction. 
Division  I.— Opkn. 

For  a  group  of  Roses,  either  plants  or  plants  and  cut 
blooms,  in  a  space  15  feet  by  S  feet,  any  shape  or  design, 
Messrs.  George  Mount  and  Sous,  Canterbury,  were  an  easy 
first  with  a  splendidly  arranged  and  artistically  formed 
group.  The  varieties  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Richmond  and 
Joseph  Lowe  were  exceedingly  conspicuous,  having  been 
remarkably  well  grown.  Mr.  G.  W.  Piper,  The  Nurseries, 
Uckfleld,  was  second,  and  Mr.  Edward  Jones,  gardener  to 
Harry  Young,  Esq.,  Withdean  Grange,  Brighton,  third. 
With  the  first  prize  went  a  handsome  silver  cup,  together 
with  the  society's  silver-gilt  medal.  Messrs.  Mount  must 
be  congratulated  on  uot  only  securing  the  above,  but  re- 
ceiving in  addition,  to  be  held  for  one  year,  the  Corporation 
Challenge  Bowl,  presented  for  the  most  meritorious 
exhibit  in  the  show,  and  whose  group  was  considered  the 
most  worthy.  For  a  group  of  Roses,  similar  to  the  above, 
in  a  space  V2  feet  by  i;  feet,  Messrs.  Mount  again  secured 
the  leading  honour  ;  and  for  twelve  Roses  in  pots,  any 
variety,  Messrs.  Mount  were  again  first,  followed  by  Mr. 
Frank  Woollard,  Lewes  Road,  Brighton.  *'or  a  circular 
group  of  Ferns,  I'J  feet  in  diameter,  Mr.  Edward  Jones 
was  first,  with  Messrs.  George  Miles  and  Son,  Brighton, 
second. 

Cut  Flowers  (Oi'en). 

For  Roses,  forty-eight  blooms,  distinct,  Messrs.  George 
ilount  and  Sons  were  first  (gold  medal).  Mr.  Frank 
Woollard  securing  the  silver-gilt  medal.  For  thirty-six 
blooms,  distinct :  First,  Mr.  Harris,  gardener  to  E.  M. 
Eversfleld,  Esq.,  Denne  Park,  Horsham  (society's  silver 
medal):  second,  Messrs.  George  Mount ;  third,  Mr.  Frank 
Woollard.  For  thirty  long-stemmed  Roses,  six  sorts,  the 
first  prize  and  the  society's  silver-gilt  medal  went  to  Messrs. 
George  Mount  and  Sons  for  Richmond,  Mrs.  John  Laing, 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  and  others  ;  second,  Mr.  G.  Norman, 
gardener  to  A.  Morris,  Esq.,  Upper  Drive,  Hove. 

For  a  collection  of  Sweet  Peas  artistically  arranged  with 
any  cut  foliage  or  foliage  plants  on  a  table  4  feet  square, 
the  challenge  cup,  society's  silver  medal  and  first  prize  fell 
to  Mr.  James  Box,  Lindfield,  whose  device,  rising  from  a 
well-filled  bottom,  was  representative  of  an  aeroplane 
and  evoked  considerable  admiration,  as  also  did  those  of 
Mr.  C.  F.  Waters,  Balcombe,  and  Mr.  A.  T.  Paskett, 
gardener  to  E.  J.  Johnstone,  Esq.,  Burrswood,  Groom- 
bridge,  who  were  second  and  third  respectively. 

Sweet  Peas  only,  twenty-four  sorts  in  twenty-four  vases : 
First  prize  and  society's  silver-gilt  medal  went  to  Mr. 
James  Box  with  nice  specimens  of  Paradise  Carmine. 
Clara  Curtis,  Audrey  Crier,  Constance  Oliver,  Mrs.  Henry 
Bell,  Countess  Spencer,  Ac.   Mr.  A.  X.  Paskett  was  second. 

For  a  collection  of  cut  Carnations  on  a  table  4  feet  square, 
the  handsome  silver  challenge  cup,  society's  silver  medal 
and  first  prize  were  won  by  Mr.  A.  T.  Paskett;  second. 
Mr.  C.  F.  Waters.  Both  tables  were  admirably  arranged, 
the  former  consisting  chiefly  of  Tree  varieties. 

For  a  collection  of  vegetables,  Mr.  George  Porter,  gar- 
dener to  Colonel  Dudley  Sampson,  Busshalls,  Lindfield, 
was  first;  Mr.  Tourle,  gardener  to  F.  Barchard,  Esq., 
Horsted  Place,  Uckfleld,  second  ;  and  Mr.  J.  C.  Reeves, 
gardener  to  Captain  H.  Acton  Blake,  Pucks  Croft,  Rusper, 
third. 
Division  II.— Gentlemen's  Gardeners  ani*  Amatelrs. 

Roses,  twelve  blooms  (Hybrid  Perpetuals),  distinct :  First, 
Mr.  Harris ;  second,  Mr.  H.  MacFadyen,  Cuckfield  Park. 
Roses,  twelve  blooms  (Teas),  distinct ;  Mr.  Harris  was 
again  first  and  Mr.  H.  MacFadyen  second.  Roses,  six 
blooms  (Teas),  distinct:  First,  Mr.  A.  Roakes  ;  second, 
Mr.  A.  Stander,  Horsham ;  third,  Mr.  E.  W.  Morris, 
M.R.C.V.S.,  Ickfield. 

For  a  circular  group  of  miscellaneous  flowering  plants  in 
a  circle  10  feet  in  diameter.  Mr  Edward  Jones  secured  an 
easy  first  with  a  well-put-up  collection  of  varied  plants, 
including  Ferns.  Mr.  George  Chandler,  gardener  to  8.  C. 
Witting,  Es(i.,  HoUingbury  Copse,  Brighton,  was  second  : 
and  Mr.  H.  Bennett.  Hatch  Beauchamp.  Withdean,  third. 

SOITHAMPTON  SUMMER  SHOW. 
An  exceedingly  fine  exhibition  of  Roses,  Sweet  Peas, 
Carnations,  fruit  and  vegetables  was  held  at  the  County 
Ground  on  the  2i>th  and  3(ith  ult.  The  Southampton 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  was  established  in  1S02,  and 
since  that  time  many  grand  exhibitions  of  garden  pro- 
duce have  been  held  there  under  the  very  able  direction 
of  Mr.  Fuidge,  the  courteous  secretary.  There  were  some 
withdrawals  of  entries  in  the  Rose  classes,  owing  to  the 
recent  stormy  weather  having  damaged  the  blooms  so 


much,  but  the  quality  of  the  exhibits  in  general   was 

excellent. 

In  the  open  class  for  forty-eight  blooms,  distinct, 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  The  Old  Rose  Gardens, 
Colchester,  were  placed  first  with  the  following  varie- 
ties :  C.  J.  Grahame,  Caroline  Testout,  Rosomane 
Gravereaux,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Bessie  Brown,  Crown 
Prince,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Rev.  Alan  Cheales, 
Mildred  Grant,  ilarquise  Litta,  Robert  Scott,  Hugh 
Dickson,  William  Shean,  Gustave  Piganeau,  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux,  Lohengrin,  Marguerite  Appert,  Dean  Hole, 
Captain  Hayward,  Killarney,  G.  L.  Paul,  Lady  Aahtown, 
Gustave  Grunerwald,  Queen  of  Spain,  Exquisite,  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert,  Laurente  Carle,  J.  E.  Clark,  Joseph 
Lowe,  Mme.  Crapelet,  Comtesse  de  Ludre,  Mme.  Ravary, 
Auguste  Rigotard,  Lyon  Rose,  Comte  de  Raimbaud, 
Marcchal  Niel,  Mrs.  J.  Bateman,  Frau  Karl  Druschki, 
Liberty,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  General  Jacqueminot,  Mrs. 
Sharman  Crawford,  Hugh  Watson,  Lady  Helen  Vincent, 
Marie  A'erdier  and  Marchioness  of  Downshire.  In  this 
stand  5Ime.  Jules  Gravereaux  was  selected  as  the  premier 
bloom  in  the  show.  Second  honours  fell  to  Mr.  Drew, 
Longworth,  Berks,  who  staged  a  beautiful  lot  of  blooms. 

Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons  were  also  first  for  twelve 
varieties,  three  trusses  of  each,  namely,  Bessie  Brown, 
J.  B.  Clark,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Gustave  Grunerwald,  Dean 
Hole,  Laurente  Carle,  A.  K.  Williams,  Caroline  Testout, 
Mildred  Grant,  Richmond,  Captain  Hayward  and  Mme, 
Jules  Gravereaux.  Mr.  Drew  again  came  second  with  a 
grand  lot,  Caroline  Testout,  Bessie  Brown  and  Mildred 
Grant  being  lovely. 

Mr.  Drew  was  easily  first  for  twelve  blooms,  Teas  or 
Noisettes,  distinct,  with  the  following;  The  Bride,  Maman 
Cochet,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  (grand),  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley,  Bridesmaid,  Niphetos  (superb).  Souvenir  dun 
Ami  (lovely),  Muriel  Grahame,  White  Maman  Cochet, 
Cleopatra,  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy  and  Medea.  Messrs.  B  R. 
Cant  and  Sons  won  second  honours. 

Some  lovely  blooms  were  staged  in  competition  for  the 
Munt  Challenge  Cup,  eighteen  blooms,  distinct,  being 
called  for.  Mr.  Percy  Sugden,  WImborne,  was  the 
winner.  He  had  White  Maman  Cochet,  Mrs.  Mawley, 
Charles  J.  (irahame,  Bessie  Brown,  William  Shean,  J.  B. 
Clark,  Mrs.  V>^.  J.  Grant,  Mrs  David  MoKee,  Gustave 
Grunerwald,  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill,  Mrs.  Myks  Kennedy,  Brides- 
maid, Mme.  Jlelanie  Soupert,  Captain  Hayward,  Lyon 
Rose,  Avoca,  Dean  Hole  and  Antoine  Rivoire  all  being 
clean,  fresh  flowers.  Dr.  Charles  Lamplough,  Alverstoke, 
was  second,  Caroline  Testout,  Bessie  Brown,  Mrs.  W.  J. 
Grant  and  Lady  Ashtown  being  his  best  blooms.  Third 
honours  fell  t6  Mr.  D.  Seaton,  Lymington,  Hants.  Dr. 
Lamplough  and  Mr.  F.  Slaughter,  Susses,  were  second  and 
third  respectively  for  six  varieties,  three  trusses  of  each. 

For  twelve  Itlooms,  Teas  or  Noisettes,  distinct,  Messrs. 
Slaughter,  Seaton  and  Lamplough  won  in  the  order 
named,  all  staging  lovely  blooms.  For  twelve  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  or  Hybrid  Teas,  distinct,  Dr.  Lamplough  won, 
followed  by  Messrs.  Slaughter  and  Seaton,  who  secured 
second  and  third  prizes  respectively. 

For  six  bunches  of  garden  or  decorative  Roses,  distinct, 
not  less  than  three  sprays  of  each,  Mr.  H.  E.  Sugden  won 
premier  honours.  A  very  fine  display  was  made  in  this 
class. 

The  Munt  Cup  was  offered  for  exhibitors  who  grow  less 
than  3(h!»  trees  and  staged  twelve  blooms,  distinct.  Mr. 
Alan  Searle,  Southampton,  was  the  winner  ;  second,  Mr. 
G,  Hawkins,  Alverstoke ;  third,  Mr.  J.  A.  Foot,  Win- 
chester. Mr.  Burnett  won  the  silver  medal  for  twelve 
blooms.  Amateurs  exhibited  strongly  and  staged  splendid 
blooms  throughout. 

Sweet  Peas  made  a  magnificent  display.  For  six 
bunches,  open  to  amateurs,  Mr.  Green,  The  Polygon, 
Southampton,  was  the  winner.  In  the  open  classes  for 
six  bunches,  eight  and  twelve,  Mr.  Usher,  gardener  to  Sir 
Randolf  Baker,  Bart,  won  first  honours,  Mr.  H.  H. 
Lees,  Havant,  an  amateur,  being  second.  Mr.  lasher's 
blooms  were  magnificent.  He  was  awarded  a  certificate 
of  merit  for  a  grand  new  variety  named  Doris  Usher, 
after  the  style  of  Constance  Oliver. 

Messrs.  Toogood  and  Sons,  Southampton,  staged  fifty 
vases  and  baskets  of  Sweet  Peas  in  quite  a  novel  way.  On 
an  oval,  raised  base  of  short,  green,  growing  grass  long 
vases  were  arranged,  and  over  these,  rising  to  a  height  of 
about  0  feet,  were  arches,  from  which  were  suspended  the 
baskets  and  vases.  A  gold  medal  was  awarded.  The 
blooms  were  ver>"  fine,  too.  Mr.  Lumley  staged  a  fine 
collection,  Mrs.  Lumley,  Liberty,  Moneymaker,  Lizzette 
Lumley  and  Buttercup  being  extra  good. 

Messrs.  W.  H.  Rogers  and  Sons,  Red  Lodge  Nurseries, 
Southampton,  filled  one  end  of  a  large  tent  with  standard 
Roses  in  pots.  Clematises  and  their  grand  new  Pelar- 
gonium James  T.  Hamilton.     Silver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  B.  Ladhams,  Limited,  Southampton,  filled  one 
end  of  another  large  tent  with  Roses  trained  over  rustic 
poles,  herbaceous  cut  flowers  and  Shirley  Poppies.  This 
firm  also  erected  and  furnished  with  suitable  climbing 
plants  a  beautiful  pergola  leading  to  this  tent. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  had  a  grand  collec- 
tion of  vegetables  and  Melons  ;  Mr.  Burnett,  Guernsey, 
Carnations;  Mr.  C.  W.  Breadmore,  Winchester,  Carnations 
and  Sweet  Peas  ;  Messrs.  Oakley  and  Watling,  Southamp- 
ton, floral  devices ;  Messrs.  Lilley,  Guernsey,  Gladioli, 
Irises  and  Anemones  ;  Messrs.  C.  F.  Waters,  Balcombe, 
Sussex,  and  F.  G.  Bealing,  Southampton,  Carnations, 
Begonias  and  Gloxinias  respecti\ely. 

Mr.  Ellwood,  gardener  to  Mr.  Myers,  Swanmore House, 
won  Messrs.  Toogood  and  Son's  first  prize  for  six  varieties 
of  vegetables,  and  also  first  prize  for  a  similar  number  of 
varieties  ottered  by  Messrs.  Webb  and  Sons.  Mr.  E. 
Beckett,  gardener  to  Lord  Aldenham,  was  the  winner 
of  the  first  prize  offered  by  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons 
for  six  varieties  of  vegetables. 


GARDEN. 


^te^-^^ 


^3l^ai« 


No.  1965.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


July  17,  1909. 


CONTBNTS 


Roses    for     Autumn 

Coloured  Plate 

Flowering       . .     . . 

345 

Decorative    Chiysan- 

Notes  of  the  Week 

tbemums 

360 

Forthcoming  events 

346 

ROSE  GARDEN 

GOKRESPOHDBHOE 

Among  the  Roses    . . 

361 

Aspidistra  leaves 

Gardbninq  for  Bbqinners 

splitting 

347 

Garden  work  week  by 

A  note  on  Daffodils. . 

347 

week 

362 

TTnpruned      Rose 

Increasing  the  Pinks 

352 

bushes 

347 

Lifting  early  Potatoes 

363 

347 

Earthing-up  Celery 

363 

PBUrr  GAKDEH 

Sowing  Turnips 

363 

Muscat  Vine   leaves 

The  Town  Garden  . . 

363 

diseased 

347 

GARDBHma  OF  THE  WEEK 

Greenhouse 

For   the    South   and 

Hippeastrums  '    and 

South  Midlands    . . 

354 

their  culture  . .     . . 

348 

For  the  North    and 

KiTOHKN  Garden 

North  Midlands  .. 

364 

Savoy  Universal 

34S 

New  plants 

364 

IBEEB  AND  SHBUBB 

Legal  Point       ..    .. 

365 

Deciduous  trees   for 

A   remarkable    exhibit 

screens    

348 

at  Holland  Park 

365 

Answers     to     Corrb- 

Dutch    Iris — a    new 

SPONDBKTS 

and  early  race 

349 

Flower  garden 

366 

Sweet  Pea  chat 

34!» 

Trees  and  shrubs     . . 

355 

Colchicum  speclosum 

Greenhouse 

350 

album      

360 

Fruit  garden     . .     . . 

36(1 

Pffionia  Leonora 

350 

Miscellaneous  ..     .. 

356 

D" 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Daffodils  in  an  Irish  garden       347 

A  good  specimen  of  Gilbert's  Universal  Savoy    . .     . .    348 

The  new  Dutch  Irises 349 

The  new  Pieonia  Leonora 350 

Decorative  Chrysanthemums     Coloured  plate 

A  cluster  of  Colchicum  speciosum  album      361 

Increasing  the  Pinks       352,  353 

Herbaceous  border  and  wall  garden  at  Holland  Park      355 


BDITORIALi    NOTICBS. 

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Offlaea:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C, 


ROSES      FOR     AUTUMN 
FLOWERING. 

ESPITE  the  good  work  done  by  the 
National  Rose  Society,  in  later 
years  especially,  and  the  high-class 
gardening  journals  alike,  there  are 
far  too  many  people  who  appear  to 
be  still  imbued  with  the  idea  that  June  and  June 
only  is  the  month  of  Roses. 

Although  years  ago  such  an  opinion  was  only 
too  well  founded,  all  that  is  now  changed,  and  it 
is  easily  within  the  power  of  all  not  only  to  have 
Roses  in  June,  but,  given  fair  treatment, 
ordinary  weather  and  suitable  varieties,  to  enjoy 
them  in  quantity  until  well  into  November. 
One  would  go  further  and  say  that,  although 
nearly  all  varieties  produce  their  largest  and 
finest  blooms  early  in  the  season,  yet  one  sees 
in  the  Roses  of  autumn  a  freshness — a  richness  of 
colour,  due,  no  doubt,  to  the  lessening  power  of 
the  sun  and  the  heavier  dews — which  the  July 
Roses  too  often  lack.  Who  that  has  gone  out  early 
into  the  garden  on  a  September  morning  and  has 
picked  a  spray  or  two  of  Griiss  an  Teplitz  in  its 
scented  loveliness,  or  of  Lady  Ashtown  in  her 
wonderful  pink,  but  has  straightway  resolved, 
come  what  may,  to  have  just  one  more  bed  ? 

Much  of  the  increased  interest  shown  in 
autumn  Roses  of  late  years  is  due,  no  doubt,  to 
the  tremendous  growth  of  the  Hybrid  Tea,  which, 
as  the  name  betokens,  combines  with  the 
hardiness  and  strength  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual 
the  free-flowering  propensities  of  the  Tea.  But 
a  short  sixteen  years  ago  this  class  was  practically 
non-existent ;  now  we  have  gone  to  the  other 
extreme,  and  are  in  danger  of  overlooking  the 
good  qualities  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  with  its 
at  present  unmatched  colour  and  fragrance.  As 
an  illustration  of  the  tremendous  strides  this 
section  is  making,  one  notes  that,  of  forty-one 
new  Roses  catalogued  by  a  leading  grower  last 
autumn,  no  less  than  thirty-six  were  Hybrid  Teas. 
Yet  another  reason  for  the  belief  that  Roses 
bloom  but  for  a  short  season  is  doubtless  the 
delightfully  oflf-hand  manner  in  which,  at  the 
shows,  the  uninitiated  jot  down  the  names  of  the 
most  striking  blooms  without  taking  the  slightest 
pains  to  find  out  whether  they  are  easy  to  grow, 
good  autumnals,  or,  indeed,  of  any  use  at  all 
except  to  be  where  they  are — lending  distinetion 
to  an  exhibitor's  box.  The  old  saying,  "  A  little 
knowledge,  &o.,"  is  nowhere  truer  than  at  Rose 
shows,  and  one  hesitates  to  think  of  how  much 
evil  the  Mme.  Gabriel  Luizets  of  the  Rose  world 
have  wrought  to  persons  with  ideas  on  Roses  in 
autumn. 

Faulty  treatment  has  also  a  good  deal  to  do 
with  poor  and  unsatisfactory  autumn   resal  ts. 


It  cannot  be  too  strongly  impressed  that  the 
quantity  of  bloom  brought  to  perfection  in  July 
greatly  taxes  the  strength  of  the  trees.  Never- 
theless, how  often  does  one  rest  on  one's  oars,  so 
to  speak,  and,  flushed  with  the  wonderful  July 
display,  forget  that  it  is  just  at  this  time  that 
assistance  should  be  given  to  the  plants  to  enable 
them  to  renew  their  strength  and  give  freely 
again  of  their  delights  in  the  autumn !  To 
that  end  a  liberal  feeding  with  some  approved 
liquid  stimulant  must  be  given,  repeating  the 
application  at  about  fortnightly  intervals,  ever 
remembering  that  all  manuring  must"  be  pre- 
ceded by  heavy  rain  or  artificial  watering — &t 
least  a  gallon  to  each  plant — or  the  roots  will  be 
injured. 

If  from  consideration  of  storage  chemical 
manures  are  used,  choose  for  the  first  of 
these  feedings  one  containing  nitrogen  in 
some  form  or  other  as  its  chief  constituent, 
as  at  this  particular  period  it  is  growth 
that  is  wanted,  not  flowers,  and  no  nitrogen 
spells  poor  growth,  and  poor  growth  poor  flowers. 
Do  not  attempt  to  save  labour  by  giving  the 
liquid  at  double  strength,  making  one  applica- 
tion do  duty  for  two.  That  causes  trouble  and 
does  not  save  it.  A  little  and  often  should  be  one's 
principle,  and  not  more  than  half  an  ounce  to 
one  gallon  of  water  be  given  the  plants,  the 
quantity  to  each  depending  on  its  condition — 
hardly  any  at  all  to  the  weakest,  up  to  half  a 
gallon  each  to  those  in  full  vigour.  Liquid  from 
natural  manures,  that  from  sheep  being  the  most 
valuable,  should  be  diluted  to  a  pale  straw  colour 
before  using  in  like  quantities.  Roses,  as  we  do, 
feel  the  better  for  a  change  of  diet,  and  it  is  dis- 
tinctly good  practice  to  fix  on  two  or  three 
manures,  natural  or  chemical,  giving  them 
alternately  rather  than  feed  with  the  same  kind 
time  after  time. 

One  should,  however,  take  care  not  to  give 
manure,  of  a  nitrogenous  nature  at  any  rate, 
after  August  is  past,  as  the  resultant  fresh  growth 
from  later  applications  will  probably  not  be 
ripened  before  frost  cuts  it  down,  and  the  sap 
sent  up  by  the  roots  be  wasted.  Soft  water,  or 
that  fi;pm  a  pond  warmed  by  the  sun,  should 
always  be  used ;  failing  that,  tap  water  stood  in  a 
tub  in  the  open  for  a  couple  of  days  is  a  fair 
substitute.  To  use  hard  water  straight  from  the 
main  is  a  very  certain  cause  of  mildew,  the 
rosarian's  worst  enemy. 

Much  good  can  be  accomplished  by  regular  and 
continuous  hoeing,  and  if  Rose  beds  were 
hoed  more  and  watered  less  the  results  would  be 
more  satisfying.  Half  the  benefit  of  a  heavy 
summer  rain  is  wasted  if  the  ground  is  not  gone 
over  the  day  following,  and  by  thus  breaking  up 
the  cracks  conserve  the  moisture. 


346 


THE    GAUDEN. 


[July  17,1909. 


It  is  just  after  the  first  rush  is  over  early  in 
July  that  mildew  usually  appears  in  its  most 
virulent  form,  as  if  in  their  enfeebled  state  the 
plants  cannot  fight  against  it,  and  if  permitted 
to  remain  unchecked  it  will  soon  cover  the 
leaves  and  stems  with  its  grej'ish  mould,  causing 
the  prospect  of  autumn  blooms  to  be  very 
seriously  jeopardised.  The  causes  of  mildew  are 
apparently  almost  as  numerous  as  the  reputed 
cures.  Besides  the  one  previously  stated,  a  posi- 
tion too  much  enclosed  or  a  sudden  change  of 
temperature  are  common  causes ;  but  as,  whatever 
may  be  the  actual  reason,  it,  and  most  other 
diseases  which  the  Rose  is  heir  to,  first  attacks 
the  weakest  plants,  it  should  be  one's  endeavour 
by  good  culture  to  make  it  as  difficult  as  possible 
for  an  enemy  to  obtain  a  footing.  Of  the  various 
remedies  there  is  nothing  to  beat  in  small  collec- 
tions a  vigorous  rubbing  of  the  infested  leaves 
with  thumb  and  finger.  For  larger  numbers 
flowers  of  sulphur  dusted  on  when  the  leaves 
are  damp  is  good,  or  one  of  the  several  advertised 
fungicides,  such  as  Mo-Effic,  may  be  sprayed  over, 
but  whichever  be  tried  must  be  considered  as  a 
preventive  and  not  as  a  cure,  and  used  accordingly. 

With  but  few  caterpillars  to  contend  with 
after  July  is  out,  the  chief  worry  after  mildew  is 
aphis.  Waste  no  time  in  preparing  washes,  but 
kill  all  on  sight  with  finger  and  thumb  ;  and  with 
the  forcible  syringing  of  eut-of-the-way  branches, 
using  soapy  water,  they  may  be  easily  kept  in 
check. 

In  considering  the  question  of  autumn  Roses, 
no  point  is  of  greater  importance  than  the  proper 
selection  of  varieties.  Speaking  generally,  one's 
choice  should  be  confined  to  thin-petalled,  semi- 
double  sorts,  such  as  Frau  Karl  DruBchki,  as 
the  heavy  dews  prevalent  late  in  the  season 
militate  against  the  proper  opening  of  those 
with  thick,  fleshy  leaves.  It  would,  perhaps,  be 
considered  that,  with  the  numberless  varieties 
sent  out  in  late  years,  every  possible  need  has 
been  catered  for,  but  one  feels  bound  to  ask  why 
the  hybridisers  have  not  turned  their  attention 
to  perpetual  climbing  Roses.  Of  course,  there 
are  a  few — a  very  few — useful  sorts  ;  but  there  is 
undoubtedly  a  great  dearth  of  real  autumnal 
bloomers.  What  is  wanted  is  the  crossing  of  the 
wiohuraiana  and  Polyanthas  with  the  Hybrid 
Teas  and  the  high-coloured  Perpetuals ;  then 
with  autumn-flowering  Dorothy  Perkins  and 
Hiawatha  and  Climbing  General  Jacqueminot 
even  the  most  ardent  rosarian  would  probably 
rest  satisfied.  One  such  crossing  has  already 
been  BuooessfuUy  effected,  and  the  welcome 
whieh  will  be  accorded  Trier  when  it  becomes 
generally  known  will  assuredly  encourage  the 
hybridist  to  further  efforts  in  the  same  direction. 

The  following  list  of  thirty-two  first-class 
autumn  Roses  could  doubtless  be  lengthened, 
but  one  can  only  suggest  that  much  greater 
satisfaction  is  likely  to  be  obtained  from  the 
duplicating  of  a  few  tried  varieties  rather  than 
experimenting  with  a  larger  number  not  so  well 
assorted :  White  and  blush — Frau  Karl  Druschki, 
G.  Nabonnand,  LaTosoa,  *Mme.  Alfred  Carri^re, 
*Pissardii,  *Trier  and  fCeoile  Brunner.  Yellow 
(shades  of)— Gustave  Regis,  fFrau  Lilla  Rauten- 
strauch,  *Alister  Stella  Gray,  fAntoine  Rivoire, 
and  tPerle  d'Or.  Pink  (shades  of) — jLa  France, 
^Caroline  Testout,  Corallina,  jDean  Hole,  Earl 
of  Warwick,  Gustave  Grunerwald,  LadyAshtown, 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez,  Mme. 
Leon  Pain  and  Prinoesse  Marie  Mertchertsky. 
Apricot — Betty  and  Irish  Elegance.  Crimson — 
Fabvier,  Fellenberg,  'Frangoise  Crousse,  jGriiss 
an  Teplitz,  JHugh  Dickson,  G.  Laing  Paul  and 
Longworth  Rambler.  *  Climbers,  f  Pompons 
for  edging.     X  Standard. 

Waltek  Behtley. 

Field  End,  Eaatcote,  Middlesex. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


FOKTHCOMING    EVENT. 
July  28.— The  Gabden  Flower  Show,  Horti- 
cultural    Hall,   Vincent  Square,    Westminster. 
Admission  free. 


Ppesentation  to  Mp.  G.  Bunyard, 

V.IVI.H. — A  very  interesting  souvenir  of  the 
jubilee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  fruit 
committee  was  seen  at  the  presentation  to  the 
chairman  of  that  body  and  an  eminent  pomologist, 
Mr.  G.  Bunyard,  of  a  very  handsome,  greatly 
enlarged  portrait  of  himself  represented  in  the 
robes  of  office  as  Master  of  the  Fruiterers'  Com- 
pany, a  post  he  held  a  few  years  since.  The 
presentation  was  enthusiastically  subscribed  to 
by  every  member  of  the  fruit  committee,  and  a 
large  number  attended  the  presentation,  which 
took  place  in  the  lecture  hall  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  evening  of  Wednes- 
day, the  7th  inst.  Mr.  A.  Dean,  who  had 
organised  the  presentation,  briefly  described  the 
circumstances  of  its  origin,  and  invited  Mr.  A.  H. 
Pearson  to  make  the  presentation.  This  was 
very  gracefully  done,  and  Mr.  Bunyard  very 
feelingly  accepted  it.  The  portrait  was  enlarged 
and  framed  by  Mr.  Bernardi  of  Fife  Road, 
Kingston-on-Thames.  It  is,  we  learn,  to  ulti- 
mately hang  permanently  in  the  offices  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society. 

The  Jubilee  Celebration  of  the 
Fruit  and  Flopal  Committees  of 
the  Royal  Hopticultupal  Society. 
What  should  have  proved  to  be  an  event  of  more 
than  usual  horticultural  importance — the  celebra- 
tion of  the  fifty  years  of  existence  of  the  above- 
named  committees — was  last  week  very  much 
overshadowed  by  the  holding  of  the  truly  great 
flower  show  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
in  Holland  Park.  But  while  such  a  great  flower 
show  occurs  but  once  a  year,  and  is  largely  an 
exhibition  of  the  progress  made  in  horticulture 
from  year  to  year,  the  work  done  by  these 
important  committees  goes  on  all  the  year  round, 
and  if  of  a  plodding  nature,  it  is  yet  essentially 
practical  and  valuable.  Largely  these  com- 
mittees constitute,  as  it  were,  the  watch -dogs  of 
horticulture.  They  guard  the  gates  against  the 
introduction  into  it  of  false  or  worthless  matter, 
for  the  certificates  or  awards  of  these  bodies 
become  the  hall-mark  of  excellence  and  fitness  in 
new  or  improved  products.  It  was,  therefore,  but 
natural  that,  because  the  fruit  committse  was  in- 
stituted in  1858  and  the  floral  in  1859,  the  council 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  should  feel  it 
incumbent  to  mark  these  jubilees  jointly  by 
inviting  the  members  to  dine  together  at  the 
Windsor  Hotel,  Victoria  Street,  Westminster, 
on  Wednesday  of  last  week,  an  invitation  that  was 
very  largely  responded  to.  It  cannot  be  said 
that  the  speeches  made  or  the  general  conduct  of 
the  celebration,  which  was  very  dull,  rose  to  the 
interest  or  importance  of  the  occasion,  but 
possibly  it  represented  the  council's  enthusiasm. 
Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  V.M.H.,  presided  and 
proposed  the  health  of  the  members  of  the  com- 
mittees, which  was  responded  to  by  Mr.  G. 
Bunyard,  V.M.H.,  on  behalf  of  the  fruit  com- 
mittee and  by  Mr.  Marshall,  V.M.H.,  on  behalf 
of  the  floral  committee.  Generally  the  speeches 
were  more  personal  or  anecdotal  than  horti- 
cultural. A  splendid  opportunity  to  review  the 
work  of  the  society  and  its  committees  during  the 
past  half  century  was  lost.  The  fruit  committee 
originated  in  the  British  Pomological  Society, 
which  in  1858  became  allied  to,  or  a  part  of,  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society,  and  in  its  earlier 
days,  as  has  been  the  ease  down  till  now, 
included  in  its  membership  all  the  best-known 
fruit  and  vegetable  growers  or  exhibitors  of  the 
kingdom.  Having  established  a  fruit  committee, 
it  was  but  natural  that  a  floral  committee  should 
follow  ;  and  that  both  bodies  have  well  justified 
their  existence  their  records  plainly  tell.  To-day 
the  work  done  by  the  floral  committee  is 
enormous,  and  if  the  fruit  committee  has  less  to 
do,  that  is  due  to  the  fact  that  fruit  and 
vegetables  develop  far  more  slowly  than  do,  if 
more  gorgeous,  at  least  much  less  useful,  flowers. 
The  work  of  the  committees  is  not  confined  to 


the  Horticultural  Hall,  as  there  is  also  much  done 
in  examining  trials  at  Wisley  Gardens  also.  The 
Orchid,  Narcissus  and  scientific  committees  are 
of  more  recent  origin,  but  all  do  good  work. 
No  other  horticultural  society  in  the  world  has 
such  able  forces  at  its  disposal  as  is  presented 
in  the  membership  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  committees.   

Desigrns  fop  Wpexham  Public 
Park.  —  Recently  the  Town  Council  of 
Wrexham  invited  competition  in  designs  for  the 
laying  out  of  their  public  park,  and  the  first 
premium  for  the  best  design  has  just  been 
awarded  to  the  well-known  landscape  gardeners, 
Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons  of  Crawley,  Sussex. 

Damagre  by  the  stem  eelwopm.— 

The  Board  of  Agriculture  and  Fisheries  has 
received  information  as  to  the  damage  done  to 
the  Oat  crop  during  the  present  year  by  the 
stem  eelworm  and  the  frit  fly.  The  Board 
desires  to  inform  farmers  and  gardeners  that 
copies  of  leaflets  on  the  subjects  may  be 
obtained  gratis  and  post  free  from  the  Secretary, 
Board  of  Agriculture  and  Fisheries,  4,  White- 
hall Place,  London,  S.W.  Letters  so  addressed 
need  not  be  stamped. 

Old-fashioned  Roses  in  South- 
west Scotland. — in  the  many  old  gardens 
in  the  south-west  of  Scotland  the  old  Roses  have 
been  preserved  undisturbed,  save  in  the  way  of 
cultivating  them  by  giving  them  manure  from 
time  to  time.  Now,  when  Roses  of  all  kinds  are 
so  much  admired,  the  older  varieties  are  renew- 
ing their  youth  so  far  as  favour  is  concerned,  and 
many  of  them  are  being  sought  after.  In 
some  of  the  old  gardens  referred  to,  such  as 
Kirkconnell,  Newabbey,  the  garden  of  Colonel 
Maxwell  Witham,  C.M.G.,  there  are  many  old 
plants  which  have  been  in  the  garden  for  genera- 
tions. In  various  gardens  there  are  others,  such 
as  old  Scotch  Roses,  Damasks,  Centifolia  and 
Provence  and  Gallica  Roses,  also  huge  plants  of 
the  old  climbers.  Kirkennan  Garden,  the 
property  of  Mr.  Wellwood  Maxwell,  is  another 
where  there  are  numbers  of  old  flowers,  and  the 
district  must  have  a  good  many  varieties  now 
unrecognised,  seeing  that  the  names  have  been 
lost,  and  there  are  few  named  collections  is 
existence  to  compare  with. — S.  A. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(Tht  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

Rose  Mildped  Grant.— A  few  months 
ago,  in  a  most  interesting  letter  on  Roses  from 
one  of  your  correspondents,  I  noticed  that  he 
said  he  had  not  been  able  to  grow  Rose  Mildred 
Grant  satisfactorily.  At  that  time  I  had  also 
tried  to  grow  the  same  Rose  for  three  seasons 
and  had  not  succeeded  really  well.  But  last 
autumn  I  got  a  dwarf  plant  on  the  De  la 
Grifferaie  stock  and  it  has  done  splendidly. 
Both  blooms  and  foliage  are  perfect  this  year. 
I  would  tell  your  correspondent  anything  he 
might  like  to  kiow  about  the  Rose,  for  it  is  such 
a  pleasure  to  have  it  right  at  last. — Maky  W. 
Bate,  Kings  Norton. 

FPUit  bottling. — As  a  constant  reader  of 
your  paper,  I  have  been  reading  Miss  Clayden's 
article  on  fruit  bottling  in  your  issue  of  July  3, 
and  thought  it  might  interest  many  of  your 
readers  to  know  that  a  cheap  apparatus  is  to  be 
bought  that  entirely  does  away  with  all  the 
trouble  of  covering,  corking,  &c.,  as  well  as  the 
copper  fire.  It  can  be  had  from  Mr.  Beckett, 
Upwell,  Wisbech,  and  I  can  vouch  for  the  fruit, 
&o.,  keeping  and  tasting  at  Christmas  exactly  as  if 
fresh  gathered  from  the  garden.— East  Anglian. 

Peppetual-floweping  Carnations. 
The  flowers  sent  herewith  have  been  grown  in 
a  small  unheated  greenhouse  facing  east,  where  the 
sun  never  shines  after  9.30  a.m.  till  late  in  the 
afternoon.  You  will  notice  they  have  not  been 
disbudded  at  all,  the  unopened  bud  beside  each 


JULT  17,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


347 


flower  adding,  in  my  opinion,  greatly  to  its 
beauty.  It  is,  perhaps,  only  fair  to  say  the 
plants  have  had  the  advantage  of  Low's  Carna- 
tion Fertilizer.  The  varieties  are  Jeaaiea, 
Britannia,  Enchantress  and  White  Enchantress. 

Aspidistpa   leaves    splitting.— 

Noting  your  answer  to  a  correspondent  on  page 
332  of  The  Gakdbk  concerning  the  splitting  of 
Aspidistra  leaves,  I  may  say  that  my  experience 
of  the  matter  is  that  plants  which  in  potting 
have  the  rhizome,  or  underground  stem,  buried 
too  deeply  in  the  soil  are  very  apt  to  push 
up  split  leaves.  Stagnant  moisture  at  the  roots 
often  has  the  same  effect.  Deep  potting  is, 
however,  I  am  convinced  the  most  fruitful  cause 
of  this  trouble.  In  potting,  the  rhizome  should 
be  about  half  an  inch  below  the  surface  of  the 
soil.— H.  P. 

A  note  on  Daffodils.- Now  that  many 
of  your  readers'  thoughts  are  turning  towards 
the  future  Daffodil  season  and  thinking  of 
ordering,  or,  perhaps,  have  ordered,  bulbs  for 
their  gardens  and  grounds,  I  send  you  a  photo- 
graph of  masses  of  Narcissi  taken  in  their  full 
bloom.  Horsfieldii  is  the  most  in  evidence  in  it, 
and  the  large  mass  of  this  excellent  Daffodil 
made  a  grand  picture.  Katherine  Spurrell  is  in 
front.  Near  by  was  a  large  quantity  of  Nelsonii 
major  growing  under  the  friendly  shade  of  large 
Nut  trees  and  content  with  their  undisturbed 
condition,  having  now  been  many  years  in  this 
position.  The  climate  of  Ireland  seems  particu- 
larly well  suited  for  nearly  all  of  this 
family,  and  grown  in  grass  their 
annual  increase  is  not  such  a  burden 
on  the  owner  as  is  their  development 
in  garden  soil,  which  necessitates  a 
lifting,  thinning  and  replanting  in 
order  that  the  bloom  may  not  be 
diminished,  as  it  surely  is  when  the 
bulbs  become  a  "congested  district." 
— J.  Hill  Pob  (Captain),  D.L.,  River- 
ston,  Nenagh. 

Unppuned    Rose    bushes. 

There  must  be  many  lovers  of  Roses 
interested  in  "P.'s"  note  on  the  above 
subject,  page  327.  That  there  are 
Roses  which  are  more  charming  when 
left  to  grow  at  will  cannot  be  doubted, 
and  I  think  some  may  be  found  in 
other  than  the  Tea  class.  I  have 
recently  seen  a  bush  of  La  France 
which  has  not  received  any  pruning  for  years 
(if  ever),  yet  some  grand  blooms  have  been 
cut  from  the  same,  and  at  the  time  of 
writing  there  are  numerous  buds  giving  promise 
of  many  more  equally  as  good.  This  bush 
appears  to  be  practically  on  its  own  roots,  and 
is  growing  in  a  deep,  rather  light  soil.  No 
manuring  of  the  soil  in  any  form  whatever 
during  the  present  season  has  been  given,  and 
for  several  years  past  all  the  attention  it 
has  received  in  this  way  has  been  a  light 
dressing  of  manure  forked  in  around  the  roots 
as  the  work  of  digging  the  ground  surrounding 
the  bush  was  being  carried  out.  The  bush  is 
about  4  feet  in  height  and  about  the  same  in 
diameter,  A  much  larger  specimen  near  by  of 
William  Allen  Richardson  has  been  a  grand 
sight  for  weeks.  This  plant  was  originally 
trained  to  a  wall,  but  for  a  number  of  years  has 
been  allowed  full  freedom,  with  the  result  that 
a  huge  bush  literally  covered  with  flowers  is  a 
sight  to  be  remembered.  Speaking  of  this 
matter  to  a  friend,  he  gave  me  particulars  of  a 
large  plant  of  that  beautiful  Rose  Catherine 
Mermet.  The  Rose  was  growing  in  a  large  box 
in  an  unheated  greenhouse.  No  pruning  other 
than  cutting  a  long  stalk  with  each  bloom  as 
it  was  gathered  was  ever  afforded  the  plant, 
yet  the  quality  of  the  flowers  was  excellent  and 
they  realised  a  good  price.  An  annual  top- 
dressing  of  loam  and  rotten  manure  was  in  this 
case  applied  in  spring.  I  had  formerly  under 
my  charge  a  number  of  Tea  and  China  Roses 
which  were   very  lightly    pruned,    simply    the 


very  weakest  shoots  entirely  removed  from  the 
centre  of  the  plants,  and  the  masses  of  flowers 
of  good  quality  annually  produced  entirely 
justified  this  treatment.  It  is  only  fair  to  add 
that  the  soil  was  very  suitable  for  Roses  and  the 
position  sheltered. — C.  Ruse. 


IRISH     NOTES. 

THE  VICTORIA  REGIA  at  Glasnevin 
has  been  particularly  good  this  year, 
filling  the  whole  tank  with  leaves 
over  7  feet  across,  the  upturned  rims 
being  6  inches  high.  Adjoining  the 
water  house  is  the  Cactus  house,  which 
has  special  interest  this  year.  Climbing  up  the 
roof  is  a  large-flowered  Solandra,  which  has 
turned  out  to  be  a  new  species,  but  is  unnamed 
as  yet.  Near  by  is  a  Fouquieria  belonging  to 
the  Tamarisoineae,  in  appearance  like  a  spiny 
Euphorbia,  bearing  terminal  racemes  of  red 
flowers.     Among  a  group  of  Cactus  is 

Strelitzia  juncea  in  flower.  The  flowers  are 
blue  and  orange,  similar  to  S.  Reginae,  but 
the  foliage  is  like  a  strong  glaucous  Rush,  5  feet 
high.  The  true  leaves  are  only  2  inches  or 
3  inches  long  and  wither  to  a  point  as  the  stems 
grow  older. 

Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca,  an  introduction  of 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  from  South  Africa, 
makes  a  glorious  group.  This  annual  is  easily 
grown,    but    requires     sunshine     to     show    its 


flowers  so  freely  as  to  hide  the  foliage  ;  bushes 
5  feet  to  6  feet  through  are  sometimes  to  be  met 
with.  Olearia  macrodonta  here  makes  a  bush 
7  feet  high  and  is  flowering  freely.  The  leaves 
are  Holly-like,  and  the  ray  florets  are  white  with 
brown  tubular  florets,  small  but  borne  in  large 
clusters. 

An  importation  of  New  Zealand  plants  was 
made  last  autumn  with  medium  success.  A  few 
are  now  in  flower.  Craspedia  uniflora  is  a  very 
distinct  composite  with  dense  yellow  heads  of 
flowers.  The  leaves  form  a  rosette  ;  they  are 
from  3  inches  to  6  inches  long,  hairy  on  the 
upper  surface,  and  covered  with  a  dense  white 
tomentum  on  the  under  surface  with  a  clear 
white  margin.  The  flower-stems  reach  to  a 
foot  in  height.  Each  stem  is  terminated  by  the 
solitary  globose  inflorescence  about  1  inch  to 
1|  inches  in  diameter.  The  florets  are  all 
tubular,  the  rays  being  absent.  Craspedia  alpina 
is  very  similar  in  growth  and  habit,  but  the 
flowers  are  white,  the  leaves  being  also  a  brighter 
green. 

Another  New  Zealand  plant,  Seneeio  lagopus, 
is  in  flower.  The  leaves  are  oblong  and  crinkled, 
about  3  inches  to  5  inches  long,  the  under  surface 
covered  with  a  dense  felt  of  hairs.  The  flowers 
are  bright  yellow,  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
to  1  inch  across,  borne  on  branching  stems  about 
9  inches  to  a  foot  in  height.  Plants  raised  from 
seeds  sown  in  spring  will  flower  the  following 
season.  If  the  plant  proves  hardy  it  looks  as 
if  it  will  improve  when  established.  The  Seneeio 
and  the^two'Craspedias  are  planted  in 
a  sunny  place  on  the  rock  garden,  f 
C.  F.  Ball. 


DAFFODILS   IN   AN   IRISH   GAEDBN. 

full  beauty.  Seed  was  sown  in  early  March, 
the  plants  potted  on  as  required  until  their 
final  move  into  6-inch  pots,  and  grown  in  a 
cool  house,  then  transferred  to  a  cold  frame. 
In  another  house 

Hcvmanthv^  Katharina;  from  Natal,  is  excep- 
tionally good.  The  large,  globular  heads  of  bright 
orange  flowers  are  borne  on  sturdy  stems  2  feet 
to  3  feet  high.  Two  other  new  plants  may  be 
seen  in  the  houses, 

Berberis  argiita,  described  in  The  Garden 
last  year,  and  Malvaatrum  hypovmotarum. 
The  latter,  though  not  a  very  showy  plant,  is 
nearly  always  in  flower.  Near  the  entrance  to 
the  gardens 

Cratagus  tanacetifolia  may  be  seen  in  full 
flower.  The  tree  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
United  Kingdom,  being  30  feet  across  by  about 
27  feet  in  height.  It  is  a  decidedly  ornamental 
tree  and  the  air  is  laden  by  its  sweet  Almond 
fragrance. 

Tricuspidaria  lanceolata  and  Carp&nteria  cali- 
fornica  have  passed  the  winter  safely  and  are 
now  flowering  freely.  The  Carpenteria  is  5  feet 
high  and  rarely  fails  to  make  a  good  display 
with  its  snow  white  blossoms. 

Fabiana  imbricata  is  also  very  good.  It  makes 
a  well-shaped  bush  in  the  open,  and  covered  with 
its  tubular  white  flowers  and  Erica-like  foliage  is 
very  telling.  Against  a  wall  is  a  fine  plant 
11  feet  high.     The 

Oleariaa  thrive  wonderfully  well  and  seem 
to  enjoy  the  mild  Irish  climate.  0.  stelln- 
lata  is  in  this  country  quite  a  common  shrub,  and 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

MUSCAT   VINE    LEAVES 
DISEASED. 

[In  answer  to  a  Correspondent.] 

WE  had  a  similar  experi- 
ence to  yours  a  few 
years  ago,  but  in  our 
case  it  was  a  whole 
house  of  Muscats. 
The  Vines  prospered 
for  a  few  years  after  planting  and 
bore  heavy  crops  of  fine  fruit.  The 
failure  in  our  case  was  undoubtedly 
due  to  over-cropping  before  the  Vines  had 
formed  a  sufficient  body  of  permanent  roots 
to  sustain  the  strain  of  bearing  heavy  crops. 
In  the  sixth  year  they  exhibited  exactly  the 
same  symptoms  as  yours  do,  judging  by  the 
specimen  leaves  sent.  There  is  no  disease  that 
we  can  trace  in  the  leaves,  neither  are  they 
infested  with  insect  or  fungoid  pests.  The  spots 
on  the  leaves,  we  suggest,  are  due  to  the  action 
of  sudden  gleams  of  hot  sunshine  bursting  on  thin 
foliage  of  low  vitality.  In  our  case  we  practically 
replanted  the  Vines  in  new  turfy  loam  and  the 
other  ingredients  usually  added  to  a  Vine  border 
in  the  autumn  following  the  trouble.  The 
crop  the  Vines  bore  the  following  year  was  a 
poor  one  ;  but  the  Vines  were  restored  to  good 
root-action  and  good  health,  and  bore  moderate 
crops  of  splendid  quality  fruits  for  years  after. 
The  Muscat  will  carry  as  heavy  a  crop  as  any 
Vine  we  know  with  impunity  for  a  few  years  ;  but 
the  inevitable  collapse  is  bound  to  come  if  very 
heavy  cropping  is  indulged  in  for  too  long. 
Possibly  your  Vine  has  not  yet  felt  the  advan- 
tage of  the  new  turf  added  to  its  roots  last 
autumn,  and  may  improve  later.  If  it  does  not, 
we  should  not  hesitate  to  get  at  its  roots  to 
within  1  foot  of  the  stem  and  practically  relay 
the  roots  in  new  soil,  only  giving  them  as  much 
as  you  think  they  will  fill  the  first  season,  after- 
wards adding  a  small  portion  every  year.  By 
this  means  and  by  the  help  of  surface  top- 
dressings  of  fresh  horse-manure  and  soil  in  equal 
quantities  during  summer,  there  is  no  reason  why 
your  Vine  should  not  be  restored  to  good  health. 


348 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[July  17,  1909. 


THE     GREENHOUSE. 


HIPPEASTKUMS     AND     THEIR 
CULTURE. 

THE   Hippeastrums  are   justly   entitled 
to  be  regarded  as  the  most  gorgeous 
of  indoor  bulbous  plants,  and  in  the 
spring  their  large,  massive,  Lily-like 
blossoms  are  particularly  valuable  for 
various    decorative    purposes.       The 
garden  varieties  are  now  so  numerous  and  so 
dissimilar  from  each   other  that    the    blossoms 
vary  in  colour  from  white  to  deep  crimson,  while 


necessary,  and  when  it  is  done  the  operation  is 
often  put  off  till  the  flowers  are  past.  This  is, 
to  my  mind,  far  and  away  the  best  time  of  the 
year  to  repot  the  plants,  for  the  roots  are  then 
active  and  quickly  take  possession  of  the  new 
soil,  whereas  if  repotting  is  done  just  as  the 
flower-spikes  are  on  the  point  of  developing 
there  is  not  time  for  the  roots  to  become  well 
established,  and  consequently  the  individual 
flowers  fade  quicker  than  when  borne  by  well- 
rooted  bulbs. 

Very  important  items  in  the  successful  culture 
of  Hippeastrums  are  encouraging  them  to  make 
good  growth  after  their  flowers  are  past  and 
ensuring  a   thorough  ripening  of   the  bulbs  by 


A   OOOD   SPECIMEN   OF  RILBERT'S   UNIVERSAl   SAVOY. 


striped  and  flaked  flowers  occur  plentifully  among 
them. 

Known  formerly  as  Amaryllis  (which  generic 
name  is  now  retained  only  for  the  South  African 
Amaryllis  Belladonna),  the  original  species  of 
Hippeastrum  are  natives  principally  of  the 
tropical  and  intertropical  portions  of  South 
America.  Towards  the  formation  of  the  present- 
day  hybrids  several  species  have  contributed, 
and  in  this  way  the  variable  nature  of  these 
garden  forms  can  be  readily  accounted  for.  For 
many  years  such  nurserymen  as  Messrs.  Veitch 
of  Chelsea  and  Messrs.  Ker  of  Liverpool  have 
de\  oted  a  good  deal  of  attention  to  the  systematic 
intercrossing  of  the  several  types  and  the 
consequent  production  of  new  forms,  of  which 
examples  may  often  be  seen  at  the  spring 
exhibitions.  The  Westonbirt  collection  of 
Hippeastrums,  too,  is  scarcely  less  noted  than 
the  magnificent  Orchids  grown  there. 

Apparently  there  is  an  idea  that  Hippeastrums 
require  a  considerable  amount  of  heat  for  their 
successful  culture  ;  but  this  is  by  no  means  the 
case,  as  given  a  greenhouse  with  a  minimum 
night  temperature  during  the  winter  of  45° 
Hippeastrums  may  be  successfully  grown. 
Of  course,  to  have  them  in  flower  in  January  or 
February  more  heat  will  be  required  ;  but  when 
treated  as  greenhouse  plants  they  will  bloom  in 
April  or  the  first  half  of  May.  Different  ideas 
with  regard  to  the  cultural  requirements  of 
Hippeastrums  are  to  be  met  with.  Formerly 
repotting  was,  as  a  rule,  carried  out  in  January 
or  early  in  February,  and  by  some  this  practice 
is  still  followed.  The  majority,  however,  do 
not  look   upon  annual   repotting  as  absolutely 


exposure  to  sun  and  air  towards  the  end  of  the 
summer.  Weak  manure  water  when  the  pots 
are  well  furnished  with  roots  and  the  plants  are 
growing  freely  is  very  beneficial. 

As  autumn  advances  and  the  leaves  turn 
yellow  less  water  will  be  needed,  and  when 
dormant  they  may  be  kept  quite  dry  till  a  month 
or  so  of  the  new  year  has  passed.  Hippeastrums 
may  be  readily  cross- fertilised  and  seedlings 
easily  raised.  For  this  full  instructions  have 
recently  appeared  in  The  Garden.  It  must, 
however,  be  borne  in  mind  that,  unless  special 
facilities  exist,  at  least  two  and  a-half  years  are 
required  in  which  to  flower  a  Hippeastrum  from 
seed.  Such  being  the  case,  many  will  prefer  to 
purchase  seedling  bulbs,  which,  of  sufficient 
strength  to  be  reasonably  expected  to  flower, 
can  be  purchased  during  the  dormant  season  at  a 
comparatively  cheap  rate.  In  the  list  of  plants 
certificated  by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
between  the  years  1859  and  1899  no  less  than 
seventy-five  Hippeastrums  received  either  first- 
class  certificates  or  awards  of  merit.  At  one 
time  the  first-class  certificates  were  freely 
bestowed,  but  now  only  such  an  exceptional  form 
as  the  white-flowered  Snowdon  will  receive  that 
honour,  an  award  of  merit  being  generally  given 
to  a  superior  variety. 

Of  the  seventy-five  above  alluded  to  nearly  all 
are  garden  forms,  but  a  few  well-known  species, 
such  as  igneseens,  Leopoldii  and  pardinum  occur 
among  them.  That  Veitchian  publication, "  Hortus 
Veitchii,"  reviews  the  several  species  and  gives 
to  H.  Leopoldii  the  honour  of  having  as  a  parent 
exerted  the  most  influence  in  producing  the 
present-day  race  of  Hippeastrums.     This  species 


is  named  in  honour  of  the  King  of  the  Belgians, 
who,  during  a  visit  to  this  country,  was  much 
struck  by  it  when  shown  for  the  first  time  at  a 
meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  at 
the  end  of  18(i9  or  early  in  1870.  H.  P. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

SAVOY    UNIVERSAL. 

OFTEN  grown  under  the  name  of 
,  Gilbert's  Universal  Savoy,  this 
I  may  be  classed  as  one  of  the  Early 
r  Ulm  forms,  of  which  there  are  a 
good  number,  some,  such  as  the 
Early  Ulm,  Early  Dwarf  and 
Paris,  being  much  smaller  than  the  one  illus- 
trated, which  may  be  classed  as  a  medium 
variety.  It  is  a  splendid  autumn  and  winter 
vegetable,  and  though  by  no  means  a  new  intro- 
duction, as  it  was  a  great  favourite  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  kingdom  many  years  ago  and 
received  an  award  in  1889,  it  is  still  one  of  the 
best  of  the  Savoy  Cabbages  on  account  of  its  size 
and  good  quality. 

The  Savoys  play  an  important  part  in  the 
winter  vegetable  supply,  and  the  quality  is 
always  superior  when  the  plants  are  fully  exposed 
during  growth.  Of  late  years  more  attention 
has  been  paid  to  the  hardy  forms,  such  as  the 
New  Year  Savoy,  a  variety  I  have  had  good  well 
into  the  spring  when  sown  in  May,  or  even  June 
in  the  South,  and  planted  out  as  soon  as  the  plants 
are  large  enough.  I  would  advise  more  attention 
to  the  last-mentioned  fact,  as  when  the  plants  are 
left  too  long  in  the  seed-bed  they  rarely  give  a 
good  return,  and  this  also  applies  to  too  early 
sowing.  G.  Wythes. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

DECIDUOUS  TREES  FOR  SCREENS. 

WHEN  trees  are  required  for  form- 
ing a  screen  evergreens  are 
usually  selected,  and  in  cases 
where  a  permanent  and  light- 
excluding  barrier  is  not  objected 
to  these  certainly  should  be 
used  in  preference  to  deciduous  trees.  The  latter, 
however,  possess  an  advantage  in  some  ways. 
During  the  winter,  owing  to  the  absence  of  leaves, 
a  certain  amount  of  light  is  admitted  through 
them,  and  for  this  reason  they  may  often  be  used 
where  the  dense  evergreen  would  be  unsuitable. 
This  is  particularly  the  case  when  the  trees  are 
planted  near  the  windows  of  the  dwelling.  Some 
shade  is  appreciated  in  summer,  and  this  is 
afforded  by  the  deciduous  tree ;  while  during 
winter  the  light  is  not  obstructed  to  any  serious 
extent,  especially  when  the  trees  are  judiciously 
pruned.  Many  deciduous  trees  are  suitable,  and 
the  following  may  be  out  into  any  desired 
shape,  when  an  annual  pruning  will  keep  them 
within  bounds :  Chestnut,  Elm,  Lime,  Plane  and 
various  Willows.  Where  there  is  ample  space 
and  free  growth  is  not  objected  to,  many  more 
kinds  may  be  brought  into  service. 

Trees  when  planted  for  the  purpose  of  shutting 
off  any  objectionable  view,  or  for  ensuring  privacy 
in  the  garden,  should  be  planted  thickly,  as  this 
tends  to  an  upright  and  rapid  growth.  A 
suitable  distance  is  9  feet  from  tree  to  tree.  A 
row,  or,  if  preferred,  a  double  row,  arranged 
thus  *„.*,*;,*,  of  Limes  or  Elms  planted  in 
well-prepared  ground  will  grow  rapidly  and 
soon  produce  the  desired  effect.  Many  instances 
are  seen  (especially  in  town  gardens)  of  Lime 
trees  out  back  in  the  shape  of  a  hedge,  and  for 
the  purpose  of  a  screen  these  answer  admirably  ; 
hard  pruning  is  annually  practised  to  produce 
the  desired  result.  The  trees  mentioned  above 
are  all  amenable  to  this  treatment.  The  Lime 
and  Elm  are  particularly  adaptable  for  training 
into  a  variety  of  forms  owing  to  the  elasticity  of 
their  wood  and  freedom  of  growth.  C.  R. 


July  17,  1909.J 


THE    GARDEN. 


349 


THE   FLOWER  GARDEN. 


DUTCH    lEIS-A    NEW  AND    EARLY 

RACE. 

"Made    in    Holland." 

I  WAS  fortunate  when  paying  a  visit 
to  Mr.  van  Tubergen's  bulb  garden  at 
Haarlem  on  June  11  last  to  hit  upon  a 
day  when  a  new  race  of  Iris  were  in  their 
full  glory.     At  first  sight  as  one  comes 

upon  them  they  might  easily  be  mistaken 
for  Spanish  varieties,  but  on  a  closer  acquaintance 
it  is  seen  that  their  whole  habit  of  growth  is 
more  vigorous ;  in  fact,  in  some  of  the  stronger 
ones  the  stems  and  foliage  approach  those  of  the 
English  Iris.  The  flowers,  which  are  similar  to 
the  Spanish  in  their  general  appearance,  are 
large  and  characterised  by  wide  falls  marked 
with  very  conspicuous  orange  blotches.  The 
prevailing  tone  of  colour  is  that  of  the  soft 
shades  which  we  associate  with  Coquette  des 
Blanches  (Louise)  and  La  Tendresse.  Curiously, 
there  are  few  yellows, 
and  at  present  the 
stocks  of  any  of  them 
are  small.  There  are  a 
fair  number  of  blue 
shades ;  one  of  them 
named  Rembrandt  is  a 
fine  deep  self,  somewhat 
of  the  same  colour  that 
we  get  in  Formosa  or 
King  of  the  Blues,  with 
wide,  handsome  falls, 
which  measure  in 
normal  flowers  from 
1|  inches  to  Ig  inches 
across.  On  my  way 
home,  through  the 
courtesy  of  Mr.  van 
Tubergen,  I  left  a 
small  collection  of 
blooms  for  the  Editor's 
flower  -  bowl,  and  I 
think  he  will  bear  me 
out  in  saying  that  they 
have  all  the  charm  of 
the  older  type,  with 
the  additions  of 
greater  vigour  and 
length  of  stem.  Their 
greatest  value  and  dis- 
tinctness consist  in 
their 

Earlinesa.  They  are 
at  least  ten  days  to  a 
fortnight  earlier  than 
the  Spanish,  for  a  bed  of 
these  had  been  planted 
beside  them  for  com- 
parison, and  they  were 
a  long  way  off  flower- 
ing. Tulip  -  growers 
will  know  the  brilliant 
scarlet  -coated  gentle- 
man who  bows  the  fare- 
well of  the  race  as  they 
leave  us  till  another 
season.  Well,  Dutch 
Iris  begins  to  flower 
when  T.  Sprengeri  is  in 
all  his  magnificence  and 
the  very  last  of  the 
May  flowerers  almost 
gone.  They  just  fill  in 
the  awkward  gap  after 
the  Tulips,  and  for 
this  reason  they  will 
be  welcome  additions  to 
the  herbaceous  border. 

History. 

Although      they     so 

much  resemble  Spanish 

Iris,  they  have  nothing 

whatever    to    do  with 


them.  No  variety  enters  at  all  into  their 
parentage.  Through  the  instrumentality  of  Mr. 
JohQ  Hoog,  the  firm  (G.  C.  van  Tubergen,  jun.) 
is  in  possession  of  a  number  of  Ziphium  species. 
It  is  by  intercrossing  such  kinds  as  filifolia, 
Boissieri,  tingitana  and  others  that  Mr.  Thomas 
Hoog  has  raised  his  fine  new  race.  It  has  been 
entirely  "  Made  in  Holland,"  and  so,  when  I 
found  that  it  had  no  distinguishing  name,  I 
ventured  to  suggest  "  Dutch  Iris,"  a  name  which 
has  since  been  adopted  by  Messrs.  de  Graaflf  and 
the  raisers  who,  severally,  are  going  to  introduce 
these  new-comers  to  the  gardening  world.  The 
individual  varieties  have  been  named  after  Dutch 
painters.  The  following  list  includes  some  of 
the  best  and  most  beautiful : 

Albert  Guyp. — Palls,  primrose  with  an  orange 
blotch  ;  standards,  palest  blue  passing  to  white. 

Van  der  Neer.  — Falls,  yellow  grey,  very  wide  ; 
standards,  lavender  ;  fine  robust  variety. 

Pieter  de  Hoogh. — -Falls,  ivory  white,  wide  ; 
standards,  lavender  blue  ;  extra  fine. 

Eemhrandt. — Falls,  rich  deep  blue,  extra  wide ; 
standards,  dark  blue  ;  a  remarkable  variety. ''r"; 


Saenredam. — Falls,  yellow  ;  standards,  mauve. 

David  Teniers. — Falls,  yellow  ;  standards,  pale 
blue. 

Hdbhema. — Falls,  pale  primrose  ;  standards, 
pale  blue. 

Frans  Hals. — Falls,  pale  primrose  ;  standards, 
palish  blue  ;  a  robust  grower. 

Johannes  Bosboom.  — Falls,  white  ;  standards, 
white  ;  a  fine  white  self.  .Joseph  Jacob. 

[I  am  much  obliged  to  Mr.  van  Tubergen  for 
sending  the  blooms,  and  I  endorse  all  that  Mr. 
Jacob  has  said  about  the  pleasing  qualities.  — Ed.  ] 


SWEET  PEA  CHAT. 
Take  Warning. — Considering  how  frequently 
forcible  reference  has  been  made  to  the  impera- 
tive necessity  of  keeping  all  seed-pods  down  on 
the  plants,  it  might  not  at  first  glance  be  thought 
necessary  to  allude  to  the  subject  in  this  column  ; 
but  this  is  not  the  case,  for  there  are  still  many 
amateurs  who  think  that  if  they  strip  their 
plants  periodically  all  will  be  well.  Their 
primary  reason  for  allowing  all  the  blooms  to 
remain  on  the  plants 
is  to  produce  a  fine 
garden  effect,  and  to 
this  end  they  will  only 
allow  half-a-dozen  or 
so  stems  to  be  cut  at  a 
time,  with  the  result 
that  the  flowers  pass, 
seeds  are  set,  and  then 
the  plant  has  other  and 
more  important  busi- 
ness to  attend  to  than 
the  development  of 
successive  blooms.  All 
this  is  very  laudable,  no 
doubt ;  but  if  growers 
would  once  realise  that 
they  can  have  abund- 
ance of  flowers  for  the 
house  and  still  retain 
sufficient  to  produce  a 
superb  effect,  they 
would  soon  learn  thati, 
picking  pays  in 
every  way.  The  rule 
should  be  to  cut  all 
stems  just  before  the 
blooms  attain  to  per- 
fection. If  a  bud  is 
then     only     half 


panded,  it 
beautifully 
indeed,  in 
stances    it 


ex- 
will    open 

in  water ; 
many    in- 

will    come 


THE   NEW  DUTCH   IKISBS. 


finer  off  the  plant  than 
it  would  have  done  had 
it  been  allowed  to 
remain  on  it. 

Exhibition  Blooms. 
One  of  the  most 
difficult  points  for  the 
inexperienced  grower 
to  grasp  is  when  to  cut 
his  exhibition  blooms 
and  how  to  pack  them 
if  they  have  to  travel  a 
distance  to  a  show. 
Unfortunately,  it  is 
impossible  to  give 
explicit  instructions 
upon  the  former  point, 
since  local  conditions 
have  to  be  taken 
into  consideration, 
but  it  is  quite  certain 
that  almost  all  should 
be  secured  before  they 
are  fully  open,  as  they 
can  be  relied  upon  to 
expand  in  water  and 
come  to  full  size 
just  as  they  would 
have    done     on     the 


850 


THE    GARDEN. 


[July  17,  1909. 


plants.  Again,  it  will  be  found  that  the  varie- 
ties vary  considerably  in  many  respects,  and 
particularly  as  to  which  is  the  best  stage  to 
gather ;  but  the  enthusiastic  cultivator  and 
exhibitor  will  observe  keenly  and  take  full 
notes,  with  the  result  that  he  will  soon  learn  all 
there  is  to  be  learned  upon  the  point.  In  any 
case,  they  should  be  out  when  they  are  dry,  and 
for  preference  early  in  the  morning  before  the  sun 
has  had  time  to  take  any  of  the  stamina  out  of 
them  ;  but  if  the  flowers  are  wanted  and  the 
evening  promises  for  rain,  it  is  wise  to  gather 
and  put  in  water  over-night  rather  than  run  the 
risk  of  having  to  get  them  when  they  are 
dripping  with  water.  If  they  have  to  be  packed 
in  the  latter  condition,  then  one  can  give  up  all 
hopes  of  being  able  to  put  up  unspotted  blooms. 
According  to  the  distance  from  the  show,  the 
blooms  may  be  secured  twelve,  twenty-four, 
thirty-six  or  even  forty-eight  hours  before  they 


variety,  and  also,  if  possible,  two  or  three  spare 
complete  bunches  in  case  of  one  going  off  un- 
expectedly. Spencer. 


COLCHICUM    SPECIOSUM    ALBUM. 

This  variety  has  been  truly  described  as  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  Meadow  Saffrons, 
and  certainly  those  who  have  seen  it  in  bloom 
have  unanimously  endorsed  this  opinion.  The 
flowers  are  a  beautiful  pure  white,  with  golden 
anthers  nearly  three  times  the  size  of  Colohioum 
autumnale.  The  blooms  are  of  very  good  sub- 
stance, and  withstand  the  vagaries  of  the 
weather  much  better  than  the  ordinary  varie- 
ties. Planting  should  be  done  in  July,  and 
flowers  will  be  produced  during  the  autumn 
following.  In  heavy,  moist  soil  the  bulbs  should 
be  planted  at  a  depth  of  .3  inches  or  4  inches  ;  in 
lighter  soil  the  depth  should  be  about  6  inches 


COLOURED    PLATE. 


PLATE     1878. 


will  meet  the  judge's  eye  ;  but  in  the  latter 
case  the  utmost  care  will  have  to  be  taken  as  to 
the  stage  of  the  buds  and  blooms  and  to  let  the 
stems  have  a  good  turn  in  water  prior  to  the 
packing,  or  they  will  not  come  out  fresh.  As 
far  as  packing  itself  is  concerned,  there  is  little 
difficulty,  provided  that  firmness  and  the  ex- 
clusion of  air  are  ensured.  Either  a  box  or  a  flat 
hamper  may  be  utilised,  but  the  former  is  rather 
the  better.  In  either  case  there  should  be  a 
lining  of  one  or  two  thicknesses  of  tissue  paper 
and  also  a  similar  covering  before  the  lid  is  put  on 
and  tied  closely  down.  The  varieties  will  be  in 
bunches,  and  each  ought  to  be  labelled  so  as  to 
prevent  the  possibility  of  an  error  at  the  last 
moment,  and  they  should  be  placed  so  closely 
that  no  amount  of  shaking,  even  by  the  gentle 
British  railway  porter,  will  result  in  the  move- 
ment of  a  single  bloom.  In  arranging  the  stems 
in  the  vases  an  endeavour  should  be  made  to  so 
place  them  that  each  individual  can  be  clearly 
seen,  and  this  means  that  no  crowding  will  have 
to  be  permitted.  Needless  to  say,  the  exhibitor 
should  always  take  a  few  spare  stems  of  each 


THE   NEW 
P.^0NIA   LEONOBA. 

{Abmtt  tivo-thirds  natural 
size). 


The  illustration  represents  a  group  of  this 
Colchicura  growing  in  the  York  nurseries  of 
Messrs.  J.  Backhouse  and  Son,  Limited. 


P.EONIA    LEONORA. 

This,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  illustration,  is  a 
single  variety,  and  must  be  regarded  as  a  very 
beautiful  addition  to  these  useful  hardy  flowers. 
The  colour  is  a  good  crimson  lake,  with  a  mass  of 
rich  golden  yellow  stamens  in  the  centre,  these 
contrasting  well  with  the  colour  of  the  petals. 
It  was  shown  before  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  by  Mr.  Charles  Turner  of  Slough  on  the 
2'2nd  ult.,  when  it  received  an  award  of  merit. 


DECORATIVE  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

THE   word  "  decorative  '   has  rather  a 
wide  meaning ;  in  Chrysanthemums  it 
is  applied  to  such  sorts  as  are  partieu- 
larly   valuable   for  florists'  work,  or 
ordinary  decorations,  rather  than  for 
exhibition.     In  the  variety  Kathleen 
May,  which  is  well  represented  in  the  coloured 
plate,  we  have  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most  dis- 
tinct novelties  introduced  last  season.     There  is 
no  need  to  give  it  a  description,  for  the  plate  well 
represents  the  natural  flowers ;  but  I   may  say 
that  the  small  fluted  florets  of  the  disc  are  similar 
to  those  of  the  Anemone-flowered  varieties.     Its 
great  value  is  that  it  is  one  of  the  brightest  of 
the    late  ■  flowering 
varieties.       I     had 
good  flowers  before 
me  in  January,  but 
it   is  probable  that 
it  may  be  flowered 
muob     earlier.      It 
gained   a  first-class 
certificate  from  the 
National     Chrysan- 
themum Society  at 
the  December  show. 
The  plate  was  pre- 
pared from   flowers 
supplied      by 
the   H.   J.    .Jones 
Nurseries,  Limited, 
Lewisham,  who  hold 
the  stock. 

The  great  advan- 
tage of  the  decora- 
tive varieties  is  their 
freedom  of  flowering 
and  their  adapta- 
bility for  uses  where 
the  large  .Japanese 
sorts  would  be 
quite  out  of  place. 
Christmas  is  another 
variety  worth  allud- 
ing to.  This  is  a 
very  free-flowering, 
deep  yellow  variety 
^,">.  ,  with     good     stems, 

^"  "    -  "  and     the     flowers, 

which  are  of 
medium  size,  are 
produced  in  pretty 
branching      sprays, 

and    I    found    that 

they  lasted  well. 
As  the  name  im- 
plies, it  comes  in  at 
Christmas,  but  I  saw  blooms  much  later. 
Crimson  King  is  another  variety  I  noted  in  the 
Ryecroft  Nursery,  very  bright  in  colour,  of  good 
substance,  and  free  flowering. 

Single  varieties  have  been  introduced  by  all 
the  leading  growers  during  the  past  season  ;  the 
only  fault  is  that  we  are  getting  too  many  names. 
I  may,  however,  say  that  the  single  varieties  are 
finding  much  favour  with  some  of  the  London 
florists,  but  they  do  not  make  big  prices  in  the 
market  unless  it  is  for  something  very  special. 
For  growing  in  private  gardens,  where  flowers 
are  required  for  house  decoration,  they  cannot 
be  too  strongly  recommended,  as  they  are 
exceedingly  ornamental,  both  as  specimen 
plants  and  as  cut  flowers.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  these  smaller,  free-flowering  types  of 
I  Chrysanthemums  are  finding  much  favour 
in  all  directions,  a  favour  that  is  well 
bestowed,  as  they  come  at  a  season  when 
we  have  none  too  many  flowers  and  do  much  to  . 
brighten  up  our  greenhouses  and  dwelling-rooms, 
the  flowers  lasting  in  good  condition  for  seveiai 
weeks  if  well  looked  after.  H.  Hbmsley. 


y^ 


July  17,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


351 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 

AMONG    THE    ROSES. 

OUR  darker  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are 
very  bright  this  year  so  far  ;  but 
it  is  the  first  week  of  July  that 
these  are  generally  at  their  best. 
Later  in  the  summer  we  oooasion- 
ally  get  some  good  examples, 
especially  of  Eclair,  Victor  Hugo,  Earl  of 
Dufferin  and  Grand  Mogul.  Some  of  the 
Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  are  also  quite  up  to  the 
average,  most  noticeable  among  them  being  Prince 
de  Bulgarie,  Mme.  Antoine  Mari,  Pharisaer, 
Mme.  Ravary,  Gusbave  Regis  and  Mme.  Con- 
stant Soupert.  Mme.  Jeanne  Guillemot  and 
Mme.  Philippe  Rivoiie  are  once  more  proving 
their  worth  by  opening  well  during  this  chilly 
and  changeable  weather.  If  some  of  the  choicest 
Roses  are  apt  to  eome  thin  and  with  few  petals 
during  a  hot  season,  they  fully  take  their  place 
once  more  when  cooler  weather  prevails,  and  are 
invariably  among  the  most  reliable  during 
autumn. 

We  have  lately  (and  are  still  having  as  I 
write)  heavy  and  almost  torrential  showers, 
frequertly  spattering  the  soil  2  feet  or  more 
from  the  ground.  Here  we  see  the  value  of 
short  hedge  Briars  as  stocks,  and  it  was  seldom 
better  exemplified  than  during  the  past  fort- 
night. A  large  number  of  our  best  varieties 
have  a  tendency  to  hang  their  heads ;  the 
heavier  and  better  the  flower,  the  more  noticeable 
this  is.  Many,  too,  carry  their  largest  blooms 
upon  well-matured  but  fairly  weak  growth 
when  compared  with  the  weight  they  are  called 
upon  to  support.  Notable  among  these  are 
Mrs.  Edward  Mawley  and  Dean  Hole,  but  the 
last  named  is  better  than  the  first  in  this  respect. 
White  Maman  Cochet  and  its  normal  type,  also 
Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting,  Grace  Darling,  Le 
Progr^s,  Viscountess 
Folkestone  and  Bessie 
Brown  are  further 
examples  of  what  I 
mean. 

Now,  when  these 
are  cultivated  upon 
a  hedge  Briar  stem 
of  18  inches  to  2  feet 
in  height,  we  keep 
the  growth  all  that 
further  from  the 
ground.  Nor  is  this 
the  only  advantage, 
for,  so  far  as  my  own 
observations  go,  we 
find  Teas  and  Hybrid 
Teas  upon  these  short 
Briars  withstand  the 
winter  better  than 
quite  dwarfs.  They 
are  easy  to  protect, 
and  do  not  suffer  so 
much  from  a  com- 
bination of  frost  and 
wet  at  the  base  of 
the  Rose  plant.  The 
maj  ority  of  the  flowers 
come  better  matured 
and  finished  than 
when  upon  a  coarser 
and  more  succulent- 
growing  dwarf,  and 
I  believe  a  large 
number  of  growers 
will  back  me  up  in 
this  opinion.  Suckers 
need  prompt  removal 
from  all  Roses  as  soon 
as  they  appear,  for  no 
matter  what  the 
foster-stock  may  con- 
sist of,  it  is  certain  to 
claim  first  pull  on  the 
energies  of  the  roots. 


We  have  taken  advantage  of  the  recent  wet 
and  dull  weather  to  apply  what  artificial  manures 
we  intend  using.  Applied  during  such  weather 
and  hoed  in  quickly  has  proved  the  best  plan  withk 
us.  But  I  am  not  much  in  favour  of  artificial 
manures  in  the  open ;  they  need  much  more 
care  and  selection  in  using.  Too  often  we  do  not 
sufficiently  bear  in  mind  what  our  soil  is  deficient 
of  or  otherwise  ;  indeed,  I  fear  far  too  many  add 
an  overplus  of  what  is  already  in  excess  simply 
through  want  of  a  little  thought  and  observation. 
Almost  all  artificial  manures  are  forcing  and 
hasty  in  their  action.  If  not  taken  up  quickly 
they  soon  pass  away  in  the  ordinary  process  of 
percolation.  Organic  manures  are  decidedly  the 
better.  Night  soil  used  with  old  potting  refuse 
after  being  well  incorporated  is  one  of  the  best 
for  Roses.  This  is  not  so  unpleasant  if  applied 
with  care  and  slightly  surfaced  over  at  once  with 
a  little  fresh  loam.  It  is  not  nearly  so  offensive 
to  me  as  some  of  the  fish  manures  we  have  tried 
from  time  to  time.  Manure  from  fattening 
buUoeks  is  good  for  almost  any  soil ;  so,  too,  is 
pig  manure  ;  in  fact,  almost  any  animals  that  are 
corn  fed  in  conjunction  with  green  stuff,  and 
whenever  such  is  available  in  sufficient  quantity 
I  much  prefer  it  to  artificials. 

Our  stocks  for  budding  upon  this  season  are 

I  looking  well,  and  the  recent  rains  have  been  just 
the  thing  for  our  standard  Briars.  We  have  a 
muchbetter  "take"  than  usual.  Many  stems  that 
were  apparently  dead  have  only  been  "sleeping," 
and  these  showers  have  been  just  what  was 
required.  A  hot  and  dry  season  is  very  trying 
to  Briars  during  their  year  of  striking  root. 
Reverting  once  more  to  manures,  we  have  been 
giving  our  stocks  a  slight  start  with  bone-meal, 
finding  a  little  of  this  now  helps  the  sap  to  rise 

■  freely  and  yet  does  not  maintain  so  strong  late 

:  growth  as  would  frequently  be  the  case  when 
the   ground   is  too    much    enriched.      Our   own 

!  experience  points  towards  beginning  to  feed  from 


the  maiden  stage  of  the  Rose,  but,  better  still, 
after  the  plants  are  put  into  their  permanent 
quarters. 

How  very  showy  and  pleasing  the  dwarf 
Polyantha  Roses  are  again,  and  what  delightful 
subjects  these  are  for  bedding  !  Many  of  them 
are  as  full-flowered  as  Begonias  or  Zonal  Pelar- 
gOBiums.  They  are  permanent ;  flower  early, 
mid-season,  and  late  into  autumn.  They  are 
also  among  the  most  hardy,  and  there  is  no  lack 
of  choice  in  coloiir  or  form.  As  permanent 
bedders  upon  the  lawn  they  deserve  more  atten- 
tion. True,  we  can  replace  some  other  summer 
and  autumn  subjects  with  bulbs  and  early  spring- 
flowering  plants  ;  but  for  the  amount  of  trouble 
expended  few  can  compare  with  the  present-day 
dwarf  Polyanthas,  helped  out  with  some  of  the 
newer  Hybrid  Chinas  where  such  colours  as 
Queen  Mab,  Eugene  Resal  and  Comtesse  du 
Cayla  are  in  request.  During  the  late  dewy  or 
rainy  mornings  the  fragrance  of  Penzance  Sweet 
Briars  has  been  very  noticeable.  Grand  hedges 
can  be  formed  of  these,  and  I  have  seldom  seen 
them  put  to  better  use  than  at  the  bottom  er 
side  of  a  lawn,  parting  off  outbuildingsorany  other 
unsightly  but  necessary  offices.  Placed  across 
the  corner  that  contains  the  weeds  and  various 
refuse  always  found  in  any  garden,  these  Briars 
hide  what  a  friend  of  mine  calls  his  "  best  weed- 
killer, purifier  and  fertiliser  for  the  garden," 
viz.,  the  spot  where  a  fire  is  almost  always 
smouldering.  Nor  do  I  think  we  make  sufficient 
use  of  the  rugosas  in  lieu  of  hedges  and  screens. 
They  are,  with  regard  to  foliage,  longer  than 
other  Roses,  seldom  affected  by  caterpillars  and 
blight,  and  never  lose  their  autumnal  foliage 
through  red  rust.  In  addition  they  are  not  at 
all  difficult  to  grow,  as  they  thrive  in  almost 
any  kind  of  soil.  The  race  has  been  greatly 
improved  during  recent  years,  and  a  good 
selection  may  now  be  made. 

Uchfield.  A.  Piper 


A  CLUSTBK  OF  COLCHKUM   SPBCIOSUM  ALBUM.     (See  gage  odO.) 


352 


THE     GARDEN. 


[July  17,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.  —Now  is  the  season 
for  layering  Carnations,  although  it 
may  be  wise  in  some  localities  to 
defer  the  work  until  the  end  of  the 
month  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the 
flowers.  Those  shoots  whioh  have 
not  borne  flowers  are  the  ones  to  select,  and  these 
must  be  slit  up  for  about  an  inch  on  the  under- 


I. — PORTIONS  OF  AN  OLD  PINK  PLANT  WHICH 
WILL  (QUICKLY  ROOT  IF  PLANTED  IN 
SniTAliLE  SOIL. 

side,  after  removing  the  lower  leaves,  so  as  to 
form  a  sort  of  tongue,  which  must  be  kept  open 
when  pegging  the  shoot  down.  Some  good 
ordinary  potting  soil  should  be  used  for  pegging 
the  layers  into,  and  this  must  be  made  moderately 
firm  all  round  the  cut  portion.  Should  the 
weather  prove  dry,  this  soil  must  be  kept  well 
watered  until  the  layers  have  made  a  mass  of 
roots.  The  young  plants  should  be  severed  from 
the  parent  a  week  or  ten  days  before  moving 
them,  so  as  to  avoid  a  double  check  to  growth. 
Those  who  possess  Briars  should  lose  no  time  in 
budding  them  with  good  Roses,  as  usually  there 
is  no  time  better  than  the  middle  of  July.  It  is 
necessary  that  the  bark  of  both  stock  and  bud 
part  from  the  wood  easily,  and  the  actual  work 
of  inserting  the  buds  must  be  done  as  quickly  as 
possible.  As  the  operation  was  piotorially 
explained  in  The  Garden  last  year,  there  is  no 
need  to  do  more  than  remind  beginners  of  the 
work  now. 

VegetahUOarden.—T^ie  final  thinning  of  spring- 
sown  Onions  must  now  be  undertaken,  and  where 
large  bulbs  are  desired  the  plants  must  be  thinned 
to  6  inches  apart.  Where  medium-sized  specimens 
for  home  use  only  are  required,  3  inches  apart 
will  suffice.  If  the  weather  is  dry  and  the  plants 
will  not  draw  easily,  give  the  bed  a  thorough 
soaking  with  water  one  evening  and  do  the  thin- 
ning the  next  morning.  Plants  that  were  raised 
under  glass  and  subsequently  planted  out  will 
derive  much  benefit  from  weekly  applications  of 
weak  liquid  manure,  taking  care  to  water  the 
bed  well  with  clear  water  an  hour  or  two 
previously.  Should  the  weather  be  wet,  a 
sowing  of  Turnips  may  be  made.  The  usefulness 
or  otherwise  of  the  crop  will  depend  entirely  on 
the  weather  subsequently  experienced,  but 
where  space  is  available  the  experiment  is  worth 
trying.  A  small  sowing  of  a  quick-growing 
Lettuce  should  be  made.  I  have  always  found 
Carter's  Holborn  Standard  an  excellent  variety 
for  summer  use,  as  it  does  not  run  to  seed 
quickly  and  forms  large,  solid,  crisp  hearts  that 
beat  most  Cos  Lettuces,  although  this  variety 
belongs  to  the  Cabbage  section.  IViring  dry 
weather  growing  Cauliflowers,  all  kinds  of  salads. 
Peas,  Beans  and  similar  crops  will  derive  great 


benefit  from  good  soakings  of  water,  and  where 
time  will  permit  this  should  be  given  :  too  often 
watering  is  confined  to  the  flower  garden  and 
the  vegetables  lett  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

Fruit  Garden. — Where  it  is  desired  to  retain  the 
fruits  on  a  bush  or  two  of  Red  or  White  Currants, 
it  is  fairly  easy  to  do  so.  Select  the  most  shapely 
and  medium-sized  bushes,  and  when  perfectly 
dry  tie  the  branches  up  moderately  tight.  Then 
tie  round  the  whole  bush  one  or  more  mats  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  throw  off  heavy  rains  and 
exclude  a  considerable  amount  of  light.  From 
bushes  treated  thus  I  have  gathered  good  fruit 
in  the  middle  of  September,  a  season  when  it  is 
most  welcome  both  for  dessert  and  exhibition 
purposes.  Gooseberries  and  Black  Currants  will 
not  stand  this  treatment  so  well ;  but  the  former, 
especially  such  varieties  as  Warrington,  may  be 
preserved  for  several  weeks  by  netting  and 
shading  the  bushes,  choosing,  if  possible,  those 
which  are  naturally  shaded  for  a  greater  part  of 
the  day. 

Oreenhortse  aiid  Frames. — Those  who  appreciate 
Mignonette  during  the  early  spring  months 
should  sow  a  few  seeds  in  pots  now,  choosing 
pots  5  inches  or  6  inches  in  diameter.  These 
must  be  well  drained  and  filled  with  a  soil 
mixture  composed  of  loam  two  parts,  well-rotted 
manure  one  part,  and  a  good  sprinkling  of  old 
mortar  added.  Make  the  soil  moderately  firm, 
scatter  the  seeds  thinly,  cover  very  lightly,  water 
well  with  a  fine-rosed  can  and  then  stand  the 
pots  in  a  cold  frame.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings 
appear  free  ventilation  mast  be  afiforded,  thin- 
ning them  early  to  five  or  six  to  each  pot,  and 
for  the  next  three  months,  or  until  severe  frosts 
threaten,  the  plants  must  be  grown  on  as  hardily 
as  possible.  Small  twiggy  sticks  will  most  likely 
be  needed  for  support.  When,  at  the  approach 
of  winter,  the  plants  are  taken  to  the  greenhouse, 
they  should  be  kept  near  the  glass  and  given 
free  air  as  often  as  possible.  H. 


INCREASING    THE    PINKS. 

There  is  no  more  popular  subject  in  the  hardj 
flower  garden  in  late  June  and  early  July  than 
the  beautiful  sweet-scented  Pink  that  many  of 
us  have  loved  from  our  childhood.  Although 
this  subject  is  commonly  called  by  the  garden 
name  of  Pink,  to  botanists  it  is  known  by  the 
name  of  Dianthus  plumarius.  There  is  a  history 
attaching  to  the  flower,  which  is  said  to  derive 
its  name  from  the  Dutch  word  Pinkster — Whit- 
suntide— the  period  during  which  the  old 
Whitsuntide  Gilliflower  is  in  blossom.  There  is 
an  old  work  in  which  the  author  recommends 
the  water  distilled  from  Pinks  as  an  excellent 
remedy  against  epilepsy ;  the  same  work  also 
says  that  "if  a  conserve  be  composed  of  it,  it  is 
the  life  and  delight  of  the  human  race." 

There  are  many  very  beautiful  double  varieties, 
and  the  specialist,  even  at  this  period,  continues 
to  add  to  the  list  of  cultivated  kinds.  The  show 
and  laced  Pinks  in  the  past  have  been  freely 
grown  for  exhibition,  and  many  of  the  older 
florists  speak  in  enthusiastic  terms  of  the  keen 
appreciation  of  the  exhibition  kinds  by  them  and 
their  contemporaries  when  they  were  so  popular 
in  earlier  days.  Pinks  revel  in  a  well-drained 
border,  where  the  soil  has  mixed  with  it  plenty 
of  well-rotted  manure. 

The  best  time  to  plant  the  Pink  is  in  Septem- 
ber or  October.  I  prefer  the  early  days  of 
October.  The  early  days  of  March  may  also  be 
chosen  for  the  same  purpose,  but  the  plants  do 
not  seem  to  make  such  beautiful  specimens  when 
planted  then.      The  choicer  varieties  are  more 


often  grown  in  frames  during  the  winter,  and 
many  varieties  are  grown  on  in  pots  and  flowered 
under  glass  ;  but  few  of  us  would  care  to  follow 
this  somewhat  artificial  method  of  culture  when 
excellent  results  may  be  obtained  by  the  ordinary 
hardy  treatment  of  our  plants. 

It  is  a  good  rule  to  raise  a  batch  of  new  plants 
each  year,  so  that  there  may  be  material  to 
follow  worn-out  or  impoverished  specimens  from 
time  to  time.  The  Pink  is  increased  by  two  or 
three  methods  of  propagation — either  by  pipings 
or  by  detaching  small  pieces  of  growth  with  a 
"  heel  "  attached  and  embedding  these  in  soil  in 
suitable  conditions.  An  inspection  of  a  clump 
of  the  Pink  will  reveal  numerous  pieces  round 
about  the  outer  edge  of  the  plants  that  resemble 
in  appearance  those  in  Fig.  1.  In  one  case  it  will 
be  observed  that  there  are  just  a  few  hair-like 
roots  adhering,  and  in  the  other  just  the  plain 
heel  as  detached  from  the  old  plant.  With  such 
pieces  it  is  possible  to  make  splendid  plants  in  a 
comparatively  short  time,  and  this  method, 
therefore,  appeals  to  many.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  make  up  a  bed  of  light,  sandy  soil  in  any 
shaded  or  semi-shaded  position,  as  exposure  to 
the  sun  is  almost  sure  to  be  disastrous.  These 
ofisets  or  divided  pieces  of  the  old  plants  should 
be  embedded  to  the  base  of  the  growths  in  the 
prepared  soil  about  4  inches,  more  or  less,  apart, 
and  they  should  be  made  quite  firm  at  their 
base.  This  latter  is  very  important  if  the  root- 
ing process  is  to  be  quite  satisfactory.  Fig.  2 
shows  how  these  divided  pieces  should  be 
arranged  in  the  propagating-bed.  If  the  severed 
pieces  alternate  in  the  rows  their  interests  are 
better  served,  and  they  may  be  helped  with 
greater  ease  when  the  planting-out  period  arrives 
in  the  autumn.  Cold  frames  may  be  used,  if 
preferred  ;  but  a  more  simple  method  is  to  make 
up  a  bed  in  a  semi-shaded  position,  and  on  four 
uprights,  about  a  foot  above  the  ground,  to  place 
a  closely  woven  wooden  hurdle  or  anything  of 
the  same  character  during  the  period  of 
propagation. 


fii»KiMz_ 

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-METHOD   OF  PLANTING   THE   PORTIONS 
SHOWN    IN   FIG.^I. 


July  17,  1909,] 


THE    GAKDEN. 


853 


Increasing  Pinka  by  means  of  pipings  has 
always  been  the  recognised  method  of  providing 
a  large  supply  of  these  useful  plants  ;  but  it  is 
less  popular  to-day  with  amateur  growers  than 
formerly.  It  is  quite  a  simple  process,  however, 
and  in  Fig.  3  we  give  a  series  of  examples  of  the 
character  of  the  growths  from  which  pipings 
are  made.  The  two  examples  on  the  left  of  the 
picture  will  make  rooted  plants  in  a  little  while, 
as  they  both  have  a  few  roots  already,  and  if 
dibbled  in  with  ordinary  care  will  give  a  very 


3. — GROWTHS  OF  PINKS  FROM   WHICH  CUTTINGS 
OR  PIPINGS  CAN   BE   MADE. 

good  account  of  themselves.  The  two  examples 
on  the  right  of  the  picture,  however,  are  the 
best  representatives  of  a  correct  form  of  piping. 
Of  the  two,  that  on  the  left  is  the  growth  as 
severed  from  the  plant,  and  that  on  the  right  is 
the  piping  properly  prepared  and  ready  for 
insertion.  When  preparing  for  this  work  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  cut  off  as  many  shoots  as  are 
required  from  the  parent  plant  and  prepare  them 
as  depicted  in  the  illustration.  To  prepare  a 
piping,  the  growth  should  be  out  through 
immediately  below  a  joint  with  a  sharp  knife. 
Remove  a  few  of  the  lower  leaves,  and  the 
points  of  the  upper  ones  should  be  out  through 
as  portrayed.  Insert  these  in  sandy  soil  in  a 
cold  frame,  which  can  be  maintained  in  a  close 
condition,  or  what  is  better,  especially  where 
the  requirements  of  the  grower  are  not  over- 
large,  use  pans  or  boxes,  and  have  in  readiness 
a  bell-glass  to  cover  the  same.  Fig.  4  shows 
a  pan  of  pipings  inserted  about  2  inches, 
more  or  less,  apart  and  the  bell-glass  or 
oloohe  ready  to  cover  them.  Small  beds  may 
also  be  made  up  in  a  half-shady  position,  and 
these  covered  with  a  hand-light  during  the 
process  of  rooting.  D.  B.  C. 


LIFTING   EARLY   POTATOES. 

The  lifting  of  early  Potatoes  may  seem  to  be  a 
very  simple  matter,  and  so  it  is  when  the  work- 
man understands  exactly  what  to  do.  The  tubers 
required  for  seed  purposes  need  very  different 
treatment  to  those  intended  for  cooking.  When 
are  the  tubers  matured  sufficiently  to  lift  and 
save  seed  tubers  ?  This  is  a  question  that  every 
inexperienced  cultivator  must  put  and  get  satis- 
factorily answered  before  he  commences  the 
work.  For  table  use  solely  Potatoes  may  be 
lifted  when  they  are  very  small,  and  such  are 
highly  appreciated,  but  it  is  a  wasteful  practice. 
All  such  tubers  adhere  firmly  to  the  runners  or 
roots  ;  but  when  the  medium-sized  tubers  are  to 
be  selected  and  stored  for  seed  purposes,  all  of 
them  must  part  readily  from  the  runners  when 
given  a  gentle  shake.  In  this  condition  the 
Potatoes  are  fit  to  lift.  When  thoroughly  ripe 
the  tubers  will  part  from  the  runners  as  they  are 
raised  out  of  the  soil.  The  large,  or  cooking, 
tubers  must  be  stored  forthwith  in  a  darkened 
shed  or  placed  under  straw  and  litter.  The 
medium-sized  ones  used  for  "sets"  must  be 
exposed  to  the  light  and  sunshine  until  they  are 
green  all  over.  Sly  method  has  always  been  to 
place  the  tubers  on  mats  under  frame-lights,  the 
latter  being  tilted  on  bricks  or  empty  inverted 
flower-pots.  The  tubers  are  left  there  for  about 
three  weeks,   and    in  the    meantime  they   are 


turned  over  at  least  twice,  30  as  to  get  the  skin 
hardened  and  thoroughly  greened.  Throughout 
the  autumn  and  winter  months  the  seed  tubers 
must  be  kept  in  single  layers  in  boxes  or  on 
shelves  in  cool,  light  stores  just  safe  from  frosts, 
but  not  subjected  to  a  high  temperature,  as  this 
would  induce  premature  sprouting  and  conse- 
quent weakness  of  the  tubers.  Shamrock. 

EARTHING  -  UP  CELERY. 
Cultivators  who  intend  to  exhibit  their  pro- 
duce must  pay  close  attention  to  the  earthing- 
up  of  the  plants.  The  early  ones  will  be  fit  to 
lift  and  stage  at  the  August  shows.  It  is  a  wise 
plan  to  leave  the  work  of  placing  soil  to  the 
plants  as  late  as  possible  consistent  with 
allowing  sufficient  time  for  the  proper  blanching 
of  the  stalks.  Some  cultivators  who  have  not 
had  much  experience  in  the  growing  of  Celery 
for  show  purposes  are  very  eager  to  earth  up  the 
rows,  thinking  that  by  doing  so  they  will  hasten 
the  growth  of  the  plants.  It  is  a  mistake  to  do 
this,  because  the  extra  soil  which  is  placed  over 
the  roots  prevents  the  latter  receiving  abundance 
of  water  in  the  ordinary  way.  Before  any 
soil  is  heaped  up,  the  plants  must  have  a 
thorough  soaking  with  clear  water  first  and  then 
manure-water.  There  is  another  very  important 
point.  Where  the  soil  of  the  garden  is  of  a 
stiff,  clayey  nature,  many  slugs  will,  no  doubt, 
be  found  in  it,  and  they  will  also  find  the 
Celery  and  under  the  earthing-up  soil  eat 
portions  of  the  outer  stalks.  Plants  so 
mutilated  are  not  good  enough  to  exhibit. 
I  recommend  the  cultivator  to  use  a  mixture 
of  fine  ashes  and  sand,  pressing  a  small  quantity 
to  the  stalks  as  the  earthing-up  proceeds,  the 
bulk  of  the  soil  being,  of  course,  the  ordinary 
garden  loam.  SnAMROfK. 

SOWING  TURNIPS. 
The  last  sowing  of  the  early  varieties  should  now 
be  made.  This  ought  to  provide  roots  until  the 
Swedes  are  fit  for  pulling.  Ground  that  has  been 
cleared  of  Potatoes  will  be  suitable,  a  cool  situa- 
tion being  best,  as  Turnips  soon  bolt  it  the 
weather  is  very  hot.  The  ground  need  not  be  dug 
again  if  it  is  in  good  order,  merely  cleaning  and 
raking  it  moderately  fine  for  the  reception  of  the 
seed  will  do.  Golden  Ball  and  Chirk  Castle  are 
both  suitable  for  present  sowings.  Let  the  seed 
drills  be  15  inches  apart,  and  sow  thinly. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

Wallflowers. — Even  in  the  middle  of  the 
summer,  when  we  are  enjoying  the  general  effect 
of  the  bedding-out  plants,  we  must,  for  a  short 
time  at  least,  let  our  thoughts  dwell  upon  the 
work  which  is  necessary  in  connexion  with  the 
raising  and  treatment  of  spring-flowering  subjects. 
For  town  gardens  there  are  few  plants  more 
suitable  than  Wallflowers.  They  will  thrive  in 
draughty  positions  and  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil 
better  than  the  majority  of  spring-flowering 
plants.  It  is,  however,  advisable  to  well  prepare 
the  plants  so  that  they  will  withstand  a  severe 
winter  if  one  occurs.  To  this  end  the  cultivator 
must  pay  close  attention  to  the  transplanting  of 
the  seedlings  now.  Those  raised  in  open  borders 
will  be  much  stronger  than  others  raised  in 
frames.  Mere  size  is  not  a  good  criterion  of  the 
strength  of  the  plant ;  the  latter  must  be  short- 
jointed,  stocky  and  with  leaves  of  good  substance. 
The  early  transplanting  of  the  seedlings  will  still 
more  strengthen  them  and  induce  the  formation 
of  plenty  of  fibrous  roots.  The  nursery  bed  should 
be  well  placed  and  in  the  open,  not  overshadowed 
by  trees  or  buildings.  The  soil  of  the  bed  need 
not  be  rich,  but  it  must  be  moderately  so  and  be 
made  very  firm  while  in  a  dry  state.  If  a  small 
quantity  of  old  mortar  rubble  can  be  procured 
and  mixed  with  the  ordinary  border  loam,  the 
young  Wallflower  plants  will  be  very  much 
benefited. 


Polyanthuses,  Primroses,  Pansies,  Au- 
brietias,  Silenes  and  Forget-me-nots  must  all 
receive  similar  attention  now  if  nice  strong 
plants  are  to  be  ready  for  putting  out  in  the 
autumn  or  next  spring.  Where  the  soil  is 
naturally  very  clayey,  or  where  water  lodges 
a  good  deal  in  the  ground  during  the  winter 
months,  it  will  be  advisable  to  put  out  all  the 
plants  in  slightly  raised  beds  ;  but  especially  is 
this  precaution  necessary  in  the  case  of  the 
Forget-me-nots  and  Silenes,  as  these  two  damp 
off  badly  if  subjected  to  much  moisture. 

Cleaning  the  Bedding-gut  Plants. — Owners 
of  town  gardens  like  to  put  out  bedding  plants 
with  flowers  on  them  at  the  time,  so  as  to  have 
a  good  display  without  any  delay.  Success  in  a 
certain  degree  is  assured,  but  at  the  expense  of 
the  growth  of  the  plants  and  future  display  of 
blossom.  The  flowers  and  flower-buds  on  the 
plants  at  the  time  the  latter  were  put  out  are  now 
fading  rapidly,  also  some  of  the  leaves.  No  time 
must  be  lost  in  freeing  all  the  plants,  especially 
such  as  Zonal  Pelargoniums  and  Fuchsias,  from 
the  fading  blossoms  and  leaves.  For  a  couple  of 
weeks  afterwards  the  beds  will  not  look  quite  as 
bright  as  before  the  picking  began,  at  least  not 
as  regards  flowers,  but  fresh  buds  will  be 
developing  fast,  and  the  removal  of  the  yellow 
leaves  makes  the  plants  look  a  great  deal  more 
healthy.  So  a  brilliant  display  of  blossom  will 
soon  follow,  and  if  the  fading  flowers  be  regularly 
picked  off  every  week  afterwards  the  display 
will  continue  until  very  late  in  the  season. 

East  Lothian  Stocks. — Seeds  sown  now  will 
produce  plants  which  will  flower  next  summer. 
When  well  grown  the  plants  form  very  large 
bushes,  and  they  are  suitable  for  planting  out  in 
almost  any  part  of  the  garden,  even  among  young 
shrubs,  where  they  look  very  nice ;  but,  of  course, 
it  would  not  do  to  plant  the  Stocks  in  borders 
that  are  thoroughly  permeated  with  the  roots  of 
trees  or  large  shrubs.     Sow  the  seeds  thinly  in 


4. — the  pipings  inserted  in  a  pan  of  soil, 
which  will  be  covered  with  a  bell- 
glass  TO  FACtLITATE  ROOTING. 

an  open  border,  and  duly  transplant  the  seedlings 
in  another  open  border  6  inches  apart  each  way. 
Hoeing. — During  the  necessary  work  in  con- 
nexion with  the  removal  of  spring  -  flowering 
plants  and  the  putting  in  of  the  summer-flowering 
subjects,  weeds  did  not  get  much  chance  to  grow  ; 
but  now  the  seedlings  of  weeds  will  quickly 
assert  themselves  if  left  undisturbed.  It  would 
be  well  to  examine  the  flower  and  other  beds 
and,  where  there  is  room  for  the  hoe,  carefully 
loosen  the  surface  soil,  as  such  action  will 
destroy  thousands  of  weeds  in  their  infancy. 
This  work  must  be  done  on  a  bright,  sunny  day, 
as  then  the  young  weeds  will  perish  before  the 
night  dews  freshen  them  again.  Weeds  more  than 
2  inches  high  must  be  carefully  pulled  out  by 
hand,  as  it  would  not  do  to  allow  such  to  shrivel 
an  the  soil.  Avon. 


354 


THE    GARDEN. 


[July  17,  1909 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit    Department. 

VINES.— Maintain  a  humid  atmosphere 
in  all  vineries  where  the  Grapes  are 
swelling.  Muscats  may  be  given  a 
rather  higher  temperature  than  most 
other  varieties  till  the  berries  are 
perfectly  ripe.  Keep  the  roots  well 
supplied  with  moisture  and  feed  with  suitable 
Vine  manure  or  farmyard  liquid  at  a  reasonable 
strength  if  needed  to  assist  the  Vines  to  perfect 
the  crop.  Afford  ample  ventilation  to  Lady 
Downe'a  during  the  stoning  period  to  avoid  the 
berries  scalding,  and  keep  the  pipes  at  night 
comfortably  warm  to  prevent  the  temperature 
during  this  critical  time  from  falling  below  70°. 

Young  Vines  that  were  planted  this  spring 
should  be  encouraged  to  make  good  growth. 
Take  out  the  points  of  the  leaders  when  they 
have  grown  to  a  reasonable  length  and  pinch  the 
laterals  back  to  one  or  two  leaves.  Damp  the 
borders  freely  and  syringe  overhead  when  closing 
the  houses  in  the  afternoon  during  bright 
weather  ;  but  should  the  weather  prove  dull  and 
damp,  regulate  the  moisture  accordingly  and 
keep  the  pipes  warm  to  prevent  mildew.  Crop 
all  young  Vines  lightly  till  they  have  become 
well  established. 

Figs.^Attend  to  the  tying  in  of  suitable 
shoots  for  fruiting  next  season.  If  the  growths 
are  coarse,  tie  them  in  a  downward  direction. 
Thin  out  useless  shoots  and  give  plenty  of  air  on 
favourable  occasions  when  the  Figs  are  ripening. 
Peaches. — Trees  ripening  their  fruit  will  need 
ample  ventilation.  Do  net  syringe  overhead  at 
this  period,  and  go  over  the  trees  once  or  twice 
daily  and  remove  any  which  are  ready  to  gather, 
packing  them  a  trifle  under-ripe,  especially  if 
required  for  travelling  long  distances.  Tie  in 
the  growths  of  later  varieties  and  expose  the 
fruits  to  both  light  and  sun,  so  as  to  give  them 
colour  and  flavour.  Examine  frequently  the 
borders  and  thoroughly  deluge  with  manure 
water  if  dry. 

Plant  Department. 
Ferns. — Many  of  these  may  be  required  for 
decorative  purposes,  and  before  taking  them 
into  rooms  need  a  little  hardening.  If  stood  in 
a  lower  temperature  for  a  few  days,  the  fronds 
will  last  much  longer  ;  this  applies  equally  to 
many  ether  plants  which  have  been  grown  in  a 
rather  close  and  moist  atmosphere. 

Plants  in  Bloom  in  the  conservatory  will  need 
to  be  shaded  from  the  bright  sun,  and  the  roots 
must  not  lack  moisture.  Go  over  the  plants 
daily  and  remove  faded  blooms  and  any  dead 
leaves.  Tie  in  carefully  the  growths  of  creepers 
and  maintain  as  far  as  possible  a  clean  and  neat 
appearance  throughout. 

^M^fts.— The  bulb  catalogues  will  in  many 
instances  be  at  hand,  and  no  time  should  be  lost 
in  preparing  a  complete  list  of  those  required  for 
different  purposes.  Roman  Hyacinths,  Freesias 
and  Narcissi  to  flower  early  should  be  potted  up 
as  soon  as  they  arrive,  and  to  obtain  the  best 
results  the  bulbs  must  be  thoroughly  matured 
and  of  good  quality  and  the  soil  sweet  and  fresh. 
If  for  naturalisation  and  immediate  effect,  large 
quantities  of  the  most  suitable  varieties  should 
be  obtained  and  planted  early,  after  which  a 
quantity  may  be  forced  annually  and  then 
planted  out.  These,  if  not  the  first  season,  will 
flower  well  the  following.  When  planting  bulbs, 
if  the  land  is  of  poor  (quality  dig  out  some  of 
the  soil  and  add  rich,  well-decayed  manure, 
which  should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with 
the  staple  previous  to  planting  the  bulbs. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Barnet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Vegetable    Garden. 

Planting. — Advantage  should  be  taken  of  dull, 
showery  weather  to  plant  out  many  kinds  of 
autumn  and  winter  vegetables,  or  if  the  ground 
intended  for  these  is  still  occupied  with  some 
other  crop,  the  plants  should  be  raised  from  the 
seed-beds  and  be  placed  in  shallow  trenches 
until  it  is  convenient  to  plant  them  per- 
manently. 

Brussels  Sprouts. — The  lines  of  these  may 
profitably  be  .30  inches  apart,  with  6  inches  less 
from  plant  to  plant  in  the  opposite  direction. 
Previous  to  planting,  prepare  the  ground 
thoroughly  and  make  it  firm.  A  dressing  of 
soot,  burnt  refuse  or  lime  will  prove  beneficial  in 
most  soils  and  will  tend  to  keep  slugs  at  bay  in 
the  earlier  stages  of  growth. 

Broccoli  for  autumn  use,  such  as  Walcheren 
and  Veitch's  Self -Protecting,  intended  to  succeed 
late  Cauliflowers  should  also  be  attended  to  as 
soon  as  possible,  and  the  same  remark  applies 
to  later  sorts,  which,  to  enable  them  the  better 
to  withstand  the  severities  of  winter,  are  best 
planted  on  hard  ground.  This,  however,  if 
having  recently  borne  some  other  crops,  should 
be  cleared  of  weeds  and  have  the  surface 
loosened,  though  not  necessarily  to  much  depth. 

Cabbages. — A  good  breadth  of  these  planted 
now  is  sure  to  come  useful  in  due  course.  To 
obtain  quality  a  rich  root-run  must  be  provided. 
Seed  for  producing  plants  for  spring  use  must 
shortly  be  sown,  the  third  week  in  the  month 
being,  perhaps,  the  most  favoured  time  with 
cultivators  in  general.  With  this  in  view  the 
seed-bed  may  be  got  ready  at  once  by  being 
turned  about  and  dressed  with  soot. 

Spinach. — A  difficulty  is  often  encountered 
with  this  crop  in  winter,  more  especially  in 
very  moist  districts.  The  perpetual  type  or 
Spinach  Beet,  though  inferior  in  quality  to  true 
Spinach,  is  a  good  substitute,  withstanding 
both  frost  and  wet,  and,  moreover,  is  most 
acceptable  when  vegetables  are  scarce.  Two  or 
more  sowings  should  be  made,  the  first  at  the 
present  time,  and  the  plants  be  thinned  to  about 
•i  inches  apart  when  large  enough,  and  the  last  a 
month  onward,  which  will  provide  a  supply 
until  next  year's  sowings  are  ready  for  use. 

Habdy  Fruits. 

Figs  in  the  open  are  fruiting  sparsely,  the 
result  undoubtedly  of  the  damage  done  to  the 
trees  by  frost  last  year :  but  as  growths  are 
abundant,  an  early  thinning  of  these  should  be 
undertaken  and  any  required  for  the  extension 
of  the  trees  be  secured  to  the  wall  or  support. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines  are  very  fairly  cropped. 
A  final  thinning  of  the  fruit  may  now  be  done, 
leaving  the  best  placed  or  those  that  are  least 
likely  to  get,  with  increase  of  size,  in  contact 
with  wall  or  wires.  Kemove  blistered  leaves 
and  surplus  shoots,  and  tie  those  left  while  yet 
pliable  to  the  wires  or  branches  to  prevent 
breakage  by  wind. 

Pot  Plant  Department. 

Ghrysanthemums. — Potting  and  staking  being 
now  completed,  rapid  growth  will  necessitate 
the  tying  of  shoots  every  few  days.  In  the 
large  flowering  section  certain  varieties 
are  prone  to  produce  buds  this  month.  The 
same  should  be  removed  on  their  appearance, 
when  shoots  will  immediately  start  from  near 
the  point  of  severance,  and  on  being  reduced  to 
the  requisite  number  those  reserved  will  in  all 
probability  form  buds  early  in  August  or  near 
about  the  time  best  suited  to  many  varieties. 
In  hot,  dry  weather  watering  will  require  careful 
attention,  and  newly  potted  plants  will  often 
show  signs  of  distress  under  a  bright  sun,  which 
may  signify  effects  of  root  disturbance  rather 
than  want  of  moisture.       Jambs  Day. 

(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 
OaUoway  House,  Oarlieston,  Wigtownshire 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Cattleta  Mossi.f;  Waoeneri  Sandeha;. — This 
is  a  particularly  pure  white  variety,  the  petals 
being  considerably  broader  than  those  of  the 
type,  beth  these  and  the  sepals  being  pure 
white.  The  labellum  is  of  medium  size,  heavily 
fringed  and  freely  marked  with  rich  yellow. 
Award  of  merit. 

Ltilio-Cattleya  Martinetii  The  Prince. ^This  is 
an  exceedingly  beautiful  member  of  this  bi- 
generic  family,  the  large  flowers  possessing  bold 
sepals  and  petals  of  bronzy  orange  hue,  the  large 
lip  being  rich  purple  claret  and  beautifully 
veined.  First-class  certificate.  Both  were  shown 
by  Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans. 

Miltonioda  Haricoodii. — This  is  a  new  and 
pretty  bigenerio  hybrid,  its  parentage  being 
givenas  Miltonia  vexillaria  x  Cochliodanoetzliana. 
Only  a  small  plant  was  shown,  this  having  one 
flower  some  2  inches  in  length,  the  sepals  and 
petals  being  bright  cerise  coloured,  and  the  lip 
creamy  white,  spotted  rose.  Shown  by  Messrs. 
Charlesworth  and  Co. ,  Hay  ward's  Heath.  Certi- 
ficate of  appreciation. 

Primula  liltoniana. — A  remarkably  distinct, 
if  not,  indeed,  absolutely  unique,  species  from 
the  mountains  of  Eastern  Asia.  The  pyramidal 
inflorescences  are  3  inches  to  5  inches  long,  on  a 
stalk  18  inches  in  height,  the  pendulous,  acutely 
pointed  blooms  of  a  deep  lilac  or  purple  shade 
and  spirally  arranged.  A  very  striking  feature 
of  the  species  is  the  brilliant  red  colour  of  the 
calyces,  which,  assuming  a  conical  shape,  create 
a  decided  contrast  with  the  expanded  flowers. 
The  general  effect  of  the  flowering,  minus  the 
richly  coloured  tips  of  the  inflorescences,  is  that 
of  one  of  the  British  Orchises.  The  leaves  are 
soft  and  of  that  oblong  elliptic  character  which 
marks  the  Polyanthus.  Shown  by  Bees,  Limited, 
Liverpool.     First-class  certificate. 

Nephrolepis  magnifica.  —  A  very  beautiful 
variety  indeed,  and  for  which,  by  reason  of  the 
Filmy  Fern-like  character  of  the  fronds,  might 
not  inaptly  have  been  named  N.  trichomanoides. 
We  think  it  exceedingly  beautiful  but  not 
magnificent,  and  as  the  finest  of  the  very 
remarkable  plumase  series  it  is  certainly  a 
charming  addition.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Stuart 
Low  and  Co.,  Enfield.     Award  of  merit. 

Carnation  Lieutenant  Shackleton.  —  A  very 
handsome  yellow  ground  border  variety,  with 
pale  pink  colouring  on  the  petals.  Shown  by 
Mr.  C.  Blick,  Warren  Nursery,  Hayes.  Award 
of  merit. 

Pose  Arial. — A  single-flowered  rambler  variety, 
the  blooms  of  which  are  rosy  pink  and  very 
pretty.  Shown  by  Messrs.  George  Paul  and 
Son,  Cheshunt.     Award  of  merit. 

Rose  Duchess  of  Wellingtmi  (Hybrid  Tea). — A 
glorious  flower  of  orange  and  gold  colour. 

Rose  W.  Speed  (Hybrid  Tea).— A  delightful 
cream-coloured  variety  of  great  beauty  and 
charm  with  reflexiog  outer  petals. 

Rose  Grace  Molyneux  (Hybrid  Tea). — Another 
delightful  Rose,  flesh  pink  in  centre,  creamy 
white  without.  A  flower  of  very  handsome 
and  beautiful  form.  This  excellent  trio  were 
exhibited  by  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
Newtownards,  Ireland,  and  each  received  an 
award  of  merit. 

Delphinium  White  Queen.  —  The  handsomest 
and  most  imposing  of  the  white-flowered  Lark- 
spurs we  have  yet  seen.  Shown  by  Messrs.  R. 
Wallace  and  Co. ,  Colchester.     Award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Masterpiece. — A  very  handsome 
variety  of  deep  lavender  blue  shade,  probably 
the  finest  of  this  colour  at  present  known. 

Sweet  Pea  Mrs.  H.  Bell  Improved.— A  superb 
variety  in  every  way,  the  large,  well-formed 
flowers  being  of  a  pleasing  pink  and  of  fine 
texture.  This  pair  of  excellent  novelties  came 
from  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay,  and 
each  received  an  award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Mrs.  Townsend. — A  waved  white 
ground  variety  with  violet  coloured  edges  ;  a 
very    cbarming,   diatin«t    and    showy    novelty. 


July  17,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


355 


Shown  by  Messrs.  Jarman  and  Co. ,  Chard, 
Somerset.     Award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Doris  Usher.  — A  pleasing  variety  of 
rose-pink  shade.  From  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher,  Bland- 
ford.     Award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Colleen.  — A  good  bioolor  variety,  in 
whioh  bright  carmine  and  pink  are  combined 
and  which  produce  a  very  pretty  efifeot.  Shown 
by  Mr.  William  Deal,  Kelvedon.  Award  of 
merit. 

All  the  aforementioned  were  shown  before 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  at  Holland  Park 
on  the  6th  inst. ,  when  the  awards  were  made. 


A  REMARKABLE  EXHIBIT  AT 

HOLLAND  PARK. 

The  accompanying  illustration  is  of  Messrs.  R. 
Wallace  and  Co.  's  remarkable  herbaceous  border 
and  wall  garden  shown  at  Holland  Park  Show 
on  the  6th  and  7th  inst.,  and  which  was  fully 
described  in  our  last  issue.  Next  week  we  hope 
to  publish  another  view  of  this  exhibit,  showing 
it  from  a  diflferent  position.  Such  an  exhibit  is 
worthy  of  the  highest  praise,  and  we  are  pleased 
to  be  able  to  give  those  of  our  readers  who 
were  unable  to  attend  the  show  an  opportunity 
of  gaining  some  idea  of  its  realistic  beauty. 


LEGAL      POINT. 


Tenant's  compensation  {F.  o.).—A 

monthly  tenant  having  received  due  notice  to 
quit  states  that  there  is  a  considerable  quantity 
of  Damson  Plum  trees  and  Currant  bushes  in  his 
garden  with  a  large  crop  of  fruit  on  them,  and 
asks  if  he  is  entitled  to  any  compensation  "  or 
does  the  incoming  tenant  take  the  lot  ?  "  There 
is  no  right  to  compensation  at  common  law  ;  but 
in  our  opinion  the  outgoing  tenant  can  claim 
under  the  Allotments  and  Cottage  Gardens  Com- 
pensation for  Crops  Act,  1887.  The  Act  is 
applicable  to  two  classes  of  holdings:  (1)  Allot- 
ments or  pieces  of  land  held  separately  from  and 
forming  no  part  of  the  appurtenances  of  a  house  ; 
(2)  cottage  gardens  or  allotments  attached  to  a 
cottage.  In  each  case  the  parcel  of  land  must 
not  exceed  two  acres.  The  only  difficulty  that 
can  arise  as  to  the  applicability  of  the  Act  is 
occasioned  by  the  fact  that  there  is  no  statutory 
definition  of  "  cottage."  The  use  of  the  word 
cottage  differs  from  time  to  time.  From  adver- 
tisements one  sees  issuing  from  estate  agents  the 
"  delightful  little  country  cottage,"  consisting 
of  several  rooms  with  a  heavy  rental,  one  would 
imagine  it  might  cover  a  house  of  considerable 
dimensions ;  but  speaking  as  precisely  as 
possible,  it  obviously  means  a  "little"  house. 
A  cottage  is  defined  by  Coke  as  a  "  little  house 
without  land  to  it. "  At  the  present  day,  how- 
ever, a  cottage  is  not  confined  to  the  little  house 
with  no  land  attached,  as  in  the  Housing  of  the 
Working  Classes  Act,  1890,  it  includes  a  place 
with  half  an  acre,  and  in  the  Act  with  which  we 
are  dealing  it  may  extend  to  two  acres.  When 
this  is  taken  in  conjunction  with  a  Bill  whioh 
may  become  a  statute  which  is  replete  with 
undeveloped  land  of  £30  an  acre,  we  are  begin- 
ning to  get  a  bit  mixed  in  our  nomenclature. 
Anyhow,  the  house  of  our  querist  is  styled 
"cottage,"  and  we  have  no  doubt  that  he  can 
claim,  among  other  things,  "for  the  crops,  includ- 
ing fruit  upon  the  holding."  The  Act  kindly 
allows  the  landlord  and  tenant  to  agree  upon  the 
amount  and  time  of  payment  of  the  compensation 
(Section  7),  and  in  ease  of  disagreement  contains 
provisions  for  arbitration.  Justices  of  the  Peace 
and  the  County  Court  are  also  called  into  play, 
so  that  if  the  parties  are  not  wise  enough  to 
settle  a  small  matter  of  this  kind,  there  is  some- 
thing left  for  lawyers  to  wrangle  about,  till 
perchance  it  is  transferred  by  a  future  statute  to 
some  Government  department.  — Barrister. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  AnBvrepa.—The  Editor  intends 
to  make  Thb  Gasder  helpful  to  aU  readers  who  desire 
aseistajice,  no  matter  what  the  branch  o^  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  wiU  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  colwnvn.  AU  convmunica- 
titms  should  be  clea/rly  a7^d  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  oTily,  and  addressed  to  the  BniTOB  of  Thb 
OAKDEN,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHER. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Flag  iPises  {A.  K.  Hincks). — No,  it  is  not 
usual  for  these  flowers  to  vary  in  the  way  you 


we  hope  to  devote  a  special  article  to  this  method 
of  propagating  at  a  seasonable  time,  we  will  not 
give  the  particulars  here.  Our  experience  differs 
from  yours  as  to  two  year  old  plants,  which,  as  a 
rule,  attain  to  5  feet  or  more  high  ;  indeed,  we 
have  it  more  than  this  and  a  perfect  pyramid  of 
blossom.  The  best  creeper  for  the  shade  of  Beech 
trees  is  the  Irish  Ivy  ;  the  best  erect-growing 
plant,  the  Butcher's  Broom. 

Snreet  Pea  plants  dying:  (Sweet  Peas,  Walsall). 
The  Peas  have  been  attacked  by  eelworra  at  the  root. 
Try  what  the  application  of  Apterite  to  the  remainder 
will  do. 

Constpucting  a  pock  vrall  (firace  C.  Reid).— 
It  would  be  a  very  simple  matter  indeed  to  give  you  a 
list  of  suitable  plants  and  tell  you  the  kind  of  stone  to 
employ  for  the  above  ;  but  if,  as  you  say,  you  desire  to  do 
the  work  properly  and  do  not  know  how  to  begin,  you 
appear  to  require  either  very  definite  assistance  from  us 
or  a  guiding  hand  on  the  spot.  There  is  no  reason  why 
the  rock  wall,  properly  arranged,  should  not  be  a  pro- 
nounced success,  and  as  the  present  is  by  no  means  the 
best  time  to  do  the  work,  there  is  ample  time  to  consider 
what  is  best.  What  we  would  like  to  know  is  of  what 
class  of  soil  the  embankment  is  composed,  whether  light 


A  PORTION   OF  MESSRS.    R. 


WALLACE   AND   00. 'S   HBRBACBOnS  BORDER  AND   WALL  GARDEN   AT 
HOLLAND   PARK. 


describe,  though  occasionally  a  solitary  flower 
may  be  seen  with  an  increased  number  of 
standards  and  falls,  the  style-arms  or  branches 
being  also  increased.  We  have  never  known  the 
freak  to  repeat  itself,  however,  on  the  same  plant, 
and  we  are  watching  a  plant  that  gave  a  spike 
in  which  one  flower  had  all  its  parts  duplicated 
some  two  years  ago,  but  whose  flowers  have  since 
been  quite  normal.  It  would  be  interesting  to 
secure  seeds  from  such  a  flower  and  to  raise 
seedlings  to  note  the  result.  The  coming  and 
going  of  such  freaks  as  these  are  not  easily 
explained,  the  more  particularly  when  only  one 
flower  in  six  presents  itself. 

Anchusa  Itallca  Dpopmope 
variety  (Lawrence  Johnston). — The  best  way 
to  increase  and  keep  a  good  stock  of  this  plant  is 
by  root-cuttings  inserted  during  the  winter  and 
placed  in  shallow  boxes  in  the  greenhouse.     As 


or  heavy,  clay  or  sand,  and  what  facilities  exist  in  your 
district  for  obtaining  the  usually  employed  rocks  of  lime- 
stone or  sandstone.  Other  classes  of  rock  would  do  if  of  a 
porous  nature,  granite  being  too  impervious.  On  receiving 
your  reply  as  to  these  matters  we  will  assist  you  further. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Bare  gpound  beneath   Cedaps 

(R.  G.) — If  your  trees  are  isolated  specimens, 
with  good,  bare  trunks,  so  that  light  can  get 
beneath  the  branches,  there  is  no  reason  why  you 
should  not  grow  grass  beneath  right  up  to  the 
trunk.  The  best  for  the  purpose  is  an  annual 
grass  named  Poa  annua.  This  seeds  very  freely 
and  keeps  on  reproducing  itself.  If  the  shade  is 
moderately  dense,  cover  the  ground  with  Ivy ; 
if  very  dense,  it  is  doubtful  whether  you  will  get 
anything  to  grow.  The  best  shrubs  for  covering 
or  carpeting  ground  in  shady  plaees  are  common 


356 


THE     GARDEN. 


(July  17,  1909. 


Ivy,  Euonymus  radicans  and  Vinca  minor. 
Where  tall  shrubs  can  be  admitted  there  is 
nothing  better  than  Aucuba  japonioa. 

Shpubs  fop  a  poekery  (D.  Mon-is).— Rosea  such 
as  Frau  Karl  Druschki  and  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  are  not 
suitable  subjects  for  a  rockery,  although  they  are  very 
beautiful  Roses.  If  you  think  that  you  would  like  a  Rose 
for  the  purpose,  the  double  yellow  Scotch  Rose  would  be 
suitable  ;  its  correct  name  is  Rosa  spinosissima  Harrisoni. 
The  flowering  period,  however,  is  not  a  lengthy  one,  and 
you  would  probably  be  better  pleased  with  a  shrub  such 
as  Diervilla  (Weigeia)  Abel  Carriere  or  Spiraea  canescens. 
Yucca  recurvifolia  would  also  bean  excellent  subject  for 
the  rockery,  and  as  it  is  evergreen  it  would  look  well  all 
the  year  round.  Although  it  grows  more  than  6  feet  high 
it  is  of  very  slow  growth,  and  would  be  many  years  in 
attaining  that  size.  Wlien  in  flower  it  is  one  of  the  hand- 
somest plants  imaginable,  but  it  cannot  be  depended  on 
to  bloom  every  year.  The  double  yellow  Rose  you  mention 
is  probably  Rosa  sulphurea.  Four  really  good  climbing 
Roses  are  Tea  Rambler,  Hiawatha,  Crimson  Rambler  and 
Moschata.  The  latter  is  a  single  white  species,  and  if 
you  prefer  a  double  you  could  try  Dorothy  Perkins,  Helene, 
or  Alberic  Barbier ;  the  latter  is  yellow  in  bud  and  paler 
when  fully  expanded.  It  flowers  for  a  considerable 
period.     The  blossoms  are  very  fragrant. 


THE  GREENHOUSE. 
Ants  in  Tomato  pots  {L.  F.  B.). 
Procure  some  Kilogrub  or  Alphol  and  scatter  a 
small  quantity  on  the  rims  of  the  Tomato  pots 
and  also  some  around  the  base  of  the  pots,  but 
not  touching  them.  Then  make  a  hole  through 
the  soil  in  the  pots  down  to  the  drainage  with  a 
sharp-pointed  stick  about  half  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness. In  the  hole  drop  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonf  ul 
of  the  powder  and  fill  up  the  hole  with  water. 
The  ants  will  quickly  leave  the  pots  ;  many  of 
them  will  be  killed  and  also  all  their  eggs.  If 
some  of  the  powder  is  scattered  in  the  runs  the 
pests  will  soon  leave  the  house. 

Treatment  of  Salvia  splendens 

(E.  A.). — From  now  your  plants  of  Salvia  splen- 
dens may  be  given  much  the  same  treatment  as 
Chrysanthemums  that  are  grown  for  flowering  in 
pots  ;  that  is  to  say,  they  may  be  stood  outside 
till  taken  into  the  greenhouse  towards  the  end 
of  the  summer,  or,  at  all  events,  before  the 
nights  grow  cold  as  autumn  sets  in.  It  is  very 
possible  that  the  leaves  on  your  plants  are 
attacked  by  red  spider,  to  which  this  Salvia  is 
particularly  liable  and  which  would  cause  them 
to  drop.  Your  soil  is  rather  light  for  Salvias, 
and  it  would  be  much  better  if  of  a  more  holding 
nature.  Peat  is  not  desirable  ;  the  best  compost 
should  consist  principally  of  fibrous  loam, 
lightened  to  a  necessary  extent  by  well-decayed 
manure,  leaf-mould  and  sand.  Of  course,  you 
will  shift  your  plants  into  larger  pots  before 
turning  them  out  of  doors.  As  the  pots  get 
furnished  with  roots  an  occasional  dose  of  liquid 
manure  will  be  very  helpful. 

Fuchsias  not  flov^eplng  (Louise).— kn  exceed- 
ingly puzzling  question,  because  Fuchsias,  as  a  rule,  bloom 
freely  enough.  Some  varieties,  however,  are,  as  a  matter 
of  course,  more  floriferous  than  others.  Your  plants 
appear  to  oe  growing  too  luxuriantly  ;  perhaps  you  treat 
them  too  liberally.  Are  they  shaded  too  heavily?  We 
can  only  suggest  that  you  treat  them  in  a  less  liberal 
manner  and  shade  them  no  more  than  is  necessary. 
Fuchsias  are  greatly  benefited  by  being  syringed  on  the 
evenings  of  hot  days. 

Culture  of  Begonlas(Cap(ai?iC.  W.  G.).— Cuttings 
of  tuberous-rooted  Begonias  should  be  taken  in  the  spring 
when  the  new  shoots  are  about  3  inches  long.  If  taken 
when  the  flowers  are  dying  off  very  few  will  root,  and  even 
these  few  will  die  during  the  winter,  as  they  have  not  had 
time  to  form  tubers.  The  flbrous-rooted  kinds  may  be 
struck  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  but  even 
in  their  case  the  spring  is  the  best  time.  Id  order  to 
ensure  seed  the  pollen  must  be  taken  from  the  double 
flower  and  transferred  to  the  single  seed-bearing  one  by 
means  of  a  small  camel-hair  brush.  Many  of  the  very 
double  flowers,  however,  do  not  produce  pollen,  but  some 
is  generally  to  be  found  on  the  semi-double  ones.  A  point 
to  bear  in  mind  is  that  the  more  double  the  flower  from 
which  the  pollen  is  obtained,  the  greater  the  chance  of 
the  progeny  bearing  double  flowers.  A  good  book  on  the 
subject  is  "  Begonia  Culture  for  Amateurs  and  Pro- 
fessionals," by  B.  C   Ravenscroft. 

Altepatlons  to  a  speenhouse  (S.  E.  West).— 
One  point  to  be  considered  in  connexion  with  your 
suggestion  to  remove  the  bench  in  the  conservatory  is 
that  tall  plants  necessary  for  grouping  on  the  floor  are 
far  more  expensive  than  those  that  can  be  arranged  on  a 
stage  or  bench.  It  seems  to  us  that  the  wider  portion 
immediately  facing  the  steps  might  be  removed  and  a 
group  of  taller  subjects  arranged  there,  leaving  the  rest 


of  the  stage  untouched.  The  other  end  that  forma  the 
terminus  of  the  central  path  might  be  treated  in  the  same 
way,  or  without  removing  the  stage  some  of  the  plants 
could  be  elevated  on  inverted  pots  and  a  few  stood  on  the 
ground  in  front  of  the  stage,  thus  forming  an  effective 
group  as  a  terminal  feature.  A  central  group,  too,  as 
suggested  by  you  is  also  a  good  idea  ;  but  in  this  case,  as 
the  fancy  tiles  are  most  probably  not  carried  under  the 
present  stage,  they  would,  it  seems  to  us,  have  to  be 
relaid  and,  of  course,  an  additional  expense  incurred. 

Plants  not  thpivlngr  In  a  consepvatopy 
(J.  Gilhains). — A  difficult  question  to  answer,  there  being 
so  many  possible  causes  why  the  plants  do  not  thrive  in 
your  conservatory.  In  the  first  place,  ribbed  glass  is 
not  beneficial  to  the  plants  underneath,  much  the  best 
arrangement  being  to  have  clear  class  with  roller  blinds 
for  use  when  necessary.  Next,  is  there,  apart  from  the 
heat  from  the  kitchen  chimney,  any  chance  of  the  fumes 
therefrom  escaping  into  the  house  ?  It  is  also  probable 
that  the  conservatory  gets  excessively  hot  at  times,  and, 
if  so,  this  would  also  be  injurious  to  the  plants  therein. 
In  such  a  structure  as  yours  too  dry  an  atmosphere  is  a 
frequent  cause  of  ill-health  among  the  plants,  and  this 
may  be  minimised  by  a  liberal  damping  frequently. 
Although  the  structure  is  too  high  for  growing  plants  at 
their  best,  we  do  not  think  this  Is  the  main  cause  of  the 
trouble. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Sloes  diseased  (A.  L.  Ford).— The,  Sloes 
are  attacked  by  the  fungus  Exoasous  pruni. 
This  attacks  the  fruits  in  their  very  early  stages, 
and  where  it  attacks  them  they  are  induced  to 
increased  growth.  The  fungus  hibernates  in  the 
soft  bast  of  the  twigs,  and  so  when  once  a  plant 
is  attacked  the  fruits  borne  on  the  shoot  already 
affected  are  almost  certain  to  become  affected  in 
the  succeeding  year.  When  the  disease  attacks 
cultivated  varieties,  therefore,  it  is  best  to  prune 
off  the  affected  branches  completely.  Fresh  parts 
of  the  trees  may  become  infected  by  means  of  the 
spores  which  are  being  produced  now. 

Cheppies   diseased   (S.  L.  M.  and 

Devonian). — In  both  cases  the  Cherries  are 
attacked  by  the  fungus  Monilia  fructigena.  This 
fungus  passes  the  winter  either  on  the  fruit  it 
has  caustd  to  decay  or  on  the  shoots.  The  young 
shoots  are  often  killed  by  the  fungus,  and  the 
leaves  and  flowers  are  also  attacked.  It  can  only 
be  kept  in  check  by  pruning  out  during  the 
winter  and  burning  all  dead  and  dying  shoots, 
drenching  the  tree  during  the  early  spring  with 
a  solution  of  iron  sulphate  (iron  sulphate  2.51b. , 
strong  sulphuric  acid  one  pint,  water  fifty  gallons, 
mixed  in  the  order  named  in  a  wooden  vessel), 
collecting  all  decayed  fruit  and  burning,  and 
later  (after  the  buds  have  burst)  spraying  with 
dilute  Bordeaux  mixture.  The  fungus  spreads 
from  dead  twigs  and  from  "mummy"  fruits, 
whence  the  spores  are  carried  by  birds,  insects, 
wind,  &c. ,  to  infect  new  centres.  Plums, 
Cherries,  Apples,  Pears,  Rose  heps.  Hawthorn, 
&o. ,  are  attacked  by  the  fungus. 

An  old  Vine  falling  to  set  its  fpuit  (.H.  T.). 
Your  Vine  has  failed  to  set  its  fruit  from  sheer  weakness, 
with  no  particular  indication  of  bad  health.  Age  in  a 
Vine  does  not  count  when  it  is  maintained  in  a  healthy 
and  vigorous  condition.  Some  of  the  best  Grapes  we  have 
ever  grown  were  on  old  Vines.  Our  advice  in  your 
case  is  to  keep  the  laterals  well  pinched  in  during  the 
summer,  in  order  that  the  Vine  foliage  and  branches  may 
be  well  exposed  to  plenty  of  light  and  air,  so  that  they  and 
the  fruit-buds  for  next  year  not  only  may  be  well  developed 
but  well  ripened  too.  The  next  thing  will  be  to  dig  a 
trench  2J  feet  deep  and  2  feet  wide  in  front  of  the  border 
at  a  distance  of  9  feet  from  the  stem  of  the  Vine,  and 
extending  the  whole  length  of  the  border.  Any  roots  en- 
countered in  cutting  this  trench  should  be  cut  off  with  a 
knife,  as  any  roots  extending  beyond  this  limit  will  not 
be  required  again.  Having  dug  out  and  carted  or  wheeled 
away  the  soil  from  this  trench,  you  must  next  turn  over 
the  border  to  the  full  depth  of  the  trench,  throwing  the 
soil  behind  you  until  the  whole  is  turned  over  to  within 
3  feet  of  the  stem  of  the  Vine  (both  sides  and  front).  While 
the  work  of  turning  over  the  soil  of  the  border  is  going  on, 
the  utmost  care  must  be  taken  of  all  the  roots  as  they  are 
come  to,  as  on  the  good  condition  and  quantity  of  these 
roots  will  depend  the  good  progress  the  Vine  will  make 
afterwards.  Having  lifted  the  roots  as  far  as  suggested 
and  thrown  back  the  old  soil  in  the  process  of  doing  so, 
the  next  thing  you  will  have  to  do  will  be  to  satisfy 
yourself  as  to  the  drainage.  If  the  subsoil  is  of  a  gravelly 
or  other  porous  nature,  no  extra  drainage  need  be  added  ; 
but  if  of  a  clayey  or  stiff  nature,  then  artificial  drainage 
must  be  resorted  to.  Then  build  up  a  wall  of  turfy  loam 
the  same  as  that  composing  the  border,  a  foot  wide  and  as 
deep  and  as  long  as  the  border,  at  a  distance  of  6  feet 
from  the  stem  of  the  Vine.  The  open  space  between  the 
vinery  and  this  wall  of  turf  should  be  filled  in  with  the 
following  soil  compound :  To  a  barrow-load  of  turfy  loam 


cut  from  an  old  pasture  field  (after  the  long  grass  has  been 
cut  off)  add  a  peck  of  old  mortar  or  plaster  nibble,  or  old 
brick  ends,  broken  small,  will  do,  a  peck  of  lime,  a  gallon 
of  quarter-inch  bones  and  half  a  gallon  of  bone-dust, 
mixing  the  whole  well  together.  Let  the  roots  be  carefully 
laid  out  and  planted  firmly  in  this  new  soil,  and  the  result 
in  the  course  of  a  year  or  two  will  be  (with,  of  course, 
careful  attention  to  other  necessary  points  of  culture)  that 
your  old  Vine  will  become  rejuvenated  and  capable  of 
bringing  you  excellent  crops  of  Grapes  for  many  years. 
In  overhauling  and  taking  up  the  roots  from  the  old 
border,  means  must  be  taken  to  have  them  covered  over 
with  damp  mats  until  such  time  as  they  are  planted 
again.  After  undergoing  this  severe  treatment  of  its  roots, 
the  Vine  must  not  be  started  too  early  into  growth  the 
following  spring.  The  best  time  to  lift  the  roots  and 
replant  is  the  autumn,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

Is  tt  necessary  to  thin  out 
summer   Spinach?  {G.  E.  B.  Kent).— 

If  the  seeds  are  sown  thinly,  as  they  ought  to  be, 
it  is  unnecessary  to  thin  out  summer  Spinach. 
In  the  ease  of  Spinach  for  winter  use  the  case  is 
different.  This  should  be  sown  in  rows  15  inches 
apart  and  the  plants  in  the  rows  thinned  out  to 
6  inches  between  plant  and  plant.  Thinned  out 
in  this  way  the  plants  make  a  hardier  growth 
and  resist  the  cold  weather  better  than  if 
crowded  together  in  the  rows  while  growing. 

Cucuxnbep  plants  diseased  (D.  TF.).— The 
symptoms  described  suggest  eelworm  as  the  cause  of  the 
trouble,  but  in  the  absence  of  specimens  it  is  impossible 
to  be  sure.  If  eelworms  are  the  cause,  small  swellings 
will  be  found  upon  the  roots,  and  in  these  the  eelworms 
live,  having  gained  an  entrance  from  the  soil.  It  would 
be  inadvisable  to  plant  Cucumbers,  Melons  or  Tomatoes 
in  the  infested  soil. 

Honr  to  keep  Potatoes  In  youn^r  con- 
dition (Jtf.  ir.  B.)  —The  only  way  we  know  of  ia  to 
take  them  out  of  the  ground  in  an  unripe  condition— that 
is  to  say,  before  their  skins  have  set  hard— and  to  at  once 
bury  them  again  in  the  soil  in  any  part  of  the  garden 
(not  necessarily  in  boxes)  until  wanted,  covering  them 
over  to  the  depth  of  9  inches  with  soil  to  exclude  light 
and  air,  and  frost  also  if  kept  through  the  winter. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Uses  foP  soot  (TT.  Me ijfi-),— Soot  is  very  valuable  in 
the  garden  in  many  ways.  In  the  first  place,  it  may  in  a 
dry  state  be  freely  sprinkled  over  young  seedlings  of 
different  kinds,  as  it  tends  to  keep  them  free  from  insects 
and  prevents  them  being  attacked  by  birds.  In  the  next 
place,  soot-water  is  very  beneficial  to  many  plants  when 
applied  occasionally  to  the  roots,  but  the  most  advan- 
tageous way  to  use  it  is  in  conjunction  with  liquid  manure. 
The  mixture  can  be  prepared  in  this  way :  Take  an  old 
bag  of  rather  loose  texture,  fill  it  with  soot  and  tie 
securely.  Then  put  this  into  the  tub,  tank  or  whatever 
receptacle  the  manure-water  is  in  and  stir  the  bag  about 
occasionally,  repeating  this  several  times  a  day.  The 
stimulating  properties  of  the  soot  will  in  this  way  become 
incorporated  with  the  manure-water,  and  the  mixture  is 
extremely  useful  for  many  plants  in  pots  and  for  several 
kinds  of  garden  crops. 

Names  of  plants.— J/(s.s  3/a*i&(/.— Persian  Yellow. 

J.   H.   Grigijs.—Rose  Tea  Rambler. A'.   G.   ff.— 

Melilotus  ofticinalis A.  L.  Ford. — Olearia  macrodonta. 

H.    Burton.  —  Deutzia    crenata   (scabra)    fiore-pleno 

(Veitch  and    Sons,   Limited,    Chelsea). Vortigern.—l^ 

Maiauthemum  Convallaria  ;  2,  Potentllla  fruticosa  ;  3  and 
8,  Geranium  Endressii ;  4,  Genista  dalmatica  ;  5,  Erigeron 
speciosus ;  (i,  Hieracium  aurantiacum  ;  7,  KanuQCulus 
platanifolius  ;  9,  Erica  Tetralix ;  10,  Sedum  sexangulare  ; 
11,  Spiraea  buUata;  12,  Geranium  sanguineum;  13,  Genista 

sagittalis, J.    A.     T.—l,     Geranium     sanguineum ; 

2,  Lysimachia  punctata;  3,  Stachys  grandiflora;  4, 
Scutellaria  baicalensis ;  5,  Salvia  pratensis ;  G,  Lactuca 
perennis ;  7,  Helianthemum  vulgare  fiore-pleno ;  S, 
Claytonia  sibirica ;  9,  Melissa  officinalis  variegata ; 
10,  Primula  sikkimensis ;  11,  Veronica  austriaca ;  12, 
Horminum  pyrenaicum ;  13,  PotentJUa  nitida  alba ; 
14,   Ranunculus  amplexicaulis  ;     15,   Silene  species ;    16, 

Sedum  Aizoon. Mrs.   Munro.—Cy tisns  purpureas  and 

DictamnU3  albus  purpureus.  —  J..  B.  —  Streptosolen 
Jamesonii.    The  "  hose-in-hose  "  arrangement  of  Mimulus 

is  not  uncommon. R.   7.— Ligustrum  japonicum  (the 

Japanese    Privet). Mrs.    M.    G.    M.    D.—l,    Lychnis 

coronaria  ;  2,  Iris  sibirica  orientalis  ;  3,  Meconopsis  cam- 
brica ;    4,    Sidalcea   malvaeflora ;    5,    Viola   cornuta ;    6, 

Hieracium  aurantiaciun  ;    7,  Campanula   latiloba. G. 

Homfmi/.— Both  forms  of  Campanula  persicifolia  with  a 
petaloid  calyx.    This  is  a  most  variable  plant  and  there 

are  many  forms  in  cultivation. C.  H.  Sinclair. — Clematis 

Jackmanii  alba. J.  E.  Gardiner.— 1,  Stachya  lanata  ; 

2,  Corydalis  lutea  ;  3,  Veronica  Teucrium  dubia  ;  4,  Atri- 
plex  hortensis  rubra ;  5,  Saxifraga  trifureata ;  45,  Pulmonaria 
species  ;  7,  Alchemilla  vulgaris ;  8,  Geranium  sanguineum. 

J.  E.  Pullan. — Polemonium  cseruleum  album  (Jacob's 

Ladder). J.    Wcuie. — Mentha  Requienii  and  Geranium 

eriostemon. A.  B.—l,  Chrysanthemum  macrophyllum  ; 

2,  Colutea  cruenta;   3,  Lychnis  Viscaria. Norfolk. — A, 

Tradescantia  virginiana ;  b,  Thalictrum  aquilegiifolium. 

Walter  de  H.  Birch.— 1^  Rose  Black  Tuscan  ;  2,  Leucothoe 
racemoaa ;  3^  Gaultheria  Shallon. 


Sii/^pleniciif  to  THE  GARDEN,  Jiilv  ^jtli,   1909. 


A    NEW    TYPE    OF    ANEMONE    FLOWERED    CHRYSANTHEMUM. 


Uiuhon  &  Kearns,  Ltd..  Printers.  I.niuimi.  S.F. 


GARDEN. 


■7^ 


No.  1966.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


July  24,  1909. 


CONTENTS, 


A     Combined     Wall 
AND  EooF  Garden 

Notes  op  the  Week 
ForthcomiDg  events 

CORRESPOKDENOE 

Pea    Sutton's    Early 

G-iant       

Artificial  manure  . . 
A  fine  Tree  Lupine  . . 
Eremuri    at    Easton 

Grey,  Malmesbury 

Cistus  ladaniferua   , . 

A  black  Pelargonium 

Fruit  Garden 

Early      Strawberries 

outdoors 

Fruit  notes       . .     . . 
Rose  Garden 
The   best   Boses  for 

cold,  late  gardens 
New    Roses     at 

Holland  Park  Show 
Rose  Bob  Davison   . . 
Flower  Garden 
Primula  littoniana  . . 
The  hardy  Primulas 
New  Spanish  Irises. . 
Sweet  Pea  notes 
Steps    in    the    rock 

garden     


Greenhodse 

The  Koyal  Water 
Lily 363 

A  pretty  winter, 
flowering  green- 
house plant   . .     . .    363 

Greenhouse  climbers     363 

Gardeninq  for  Beoinneks 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        364 

The  summer  pruning 
of    Red     Currants 
and  Gooseberries , .    364 
Laurel     hedges      in 
small  gardens       . .    365 
The  Town  Garden  ..    365 
gardeniua  of  the  week 
For    the  Sooth   and 

South  Midlands    ..    366 
For  the   North   and 
North  Midlands  ..    366 


Editor's  Table 

Legal  Point 

Answers    to 
sfordehts 
Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Miscellaneous  .. 

SOCIETIES        . .      . . 


..     366 

..     366 

COREE- 


367 
367 
367 


ILiLrUSTRATIONS. 

Well-grown  Eremuri  in  the  Easton  Grey  Gardens     . .  359 

A  Tree  Lupine  in  a  Bournemouth  garden 360 

The  new  Primula  littoniana       361 

The  Royal  Water  Lily  (Victoria  Eegia)  at  Kew  . .     . .  362 

Stone  steps  in  a  rock  garden      363 

The  summer  pruning  of  Red  Currants 364,  366 


EDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
GARDEN,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
aympetent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  makr 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuout 
/MturSt  andt  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
wiU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o}  their  assistance 
AU  oommunicatitms  must  be  written  dearly  on  one  sidi 
OTily  0}  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  EDirOR  o/  THE 
GARDEN,  acaympanied  by  name  and  address  o/  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  saje  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
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or  litera/ry  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
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win  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptanee. 


Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C, 


A    COMBINED    WALL     AND 
ROOF    GARDEN. 

IN  almost  every  garden  there  is  some  place 
required  for  the  screening  of  a  rubbish- 
heap,  an  ash-pit  or  a  corner  where  a  few 
of  the  many  odds  and  ends  required  for 
the  garden  can  be  put  away  out  of  sight. 
It  is  frequently  a  problem  how  to  prevent  this 
from  being  unsightly,  and  various  contrivances, 
more  or  less  valuable,  are  adopted  to  secure  the 
end  in  view.  Lattice-work,  hedges,  walls  and 
other  fences  are  usually  employed,  and,  while 
the  trellis  may  be  made  beautiful  by  the  presence 
of  a  Rose  or  other  climber,  it  is  often  bare  in 
winter  and  there  is  too  much  of  the  corner  with 
its  contents  visible. 

Under  such  circumstances  there  can  be  nothing 
more  delightful  than  an  erection  combining  both 
wall  and  roof  gardening,  with  the  combined 
advantages  of  screening  and  protecting  the 
contents  of  the  building.  Everyone  knows  that 
even  garden  rubbish  becomes  evil-smelling  if  it 
is  allowed  to  become  saturated  by  rain,  and  a 
roof  will  do  much  to  minimise  this  annoyance. 
Let  us  take,  for  example,  the  provision  of  some 
screen  for  covering  a  rubbish -heap,  such  as  we 
often  see  in  a  small  garden  where  it  is  incon- 
venient to  dispose  of  the  rubbish  at  once.  This 
can  be  done  by  building  a  double  wall  and  by 
covering  it  in  with  a  roof  on  which  can  be  planted 
the  many  flowers  which  will  thrive  under  such 
conditions.  The  best  material  for  the  purpose 
is  stone,  not  too  smooth ;  and  there  is  nothing 
better  than  what  is  known  as  rough  rubble,  but 
of  a  fair  size,  as  few  stones  less  than  9  inches  or 
1  foot  in  length  being  used  as  possible.  Should 
stones  be  scarce  and  expensive,  bricks  can  be 
used,  but  these  look  too  artificial,  and  it  is  better 
in  such  cases  to  use  brick  for  the  interior  of  the 
wall  and  stone  for  the  remainder. 

The  foundation  should  be  excavated  to  a 
little  depth,  so  as  to  ensure  that  it  is  firm  and 
hard,  and  the  largest  stones  placed  at  the 
bottom,  laying  these  in  mortar  or  cement  if 
they  are  at  all  small.  The  foundation  ought  to 
be  broader  than  that  of  the  top  of  the  wall,  as 
the  exterior  of  the  latter  should  have  a  gradual 
slope  inwards  ;  but  it  must  not  be  too  great  or 
the  structure  will  be  less  substantial.  Then  the 
builder  must  first  decide  whether  the  drip  from  the 
roof  should  fall  into  the  space  between  the  inner 
and  outer  walls  or  be  carried  off.  Personally,  I 
prefer  that  it  should  so  fall,  as  by  this  means  less 
watering  is  required.  This  I  followed  success- 
fully in  one  I  built  myself,  and  which  has  stood 
for  years  and  is  now,  I  believe,  occupied  as  a 
poultry-house,  my  ownership  coming  to  an  end 
when  I  removed  to  my  present  garden. 


The  inner  wall,  whether  of  brick  or  stone, 
should  be  built  up  at  the  same  time  as  the  outer 
one,  and  space  between  the  two  should  not  be 
less  than  1  foot  at  the  top,  and  even  18  inches 
will  not  be  too  much.  It  is  an  advantage  to  have 
a  good  body  of  soil  in  the  wall.  The  irmer 
wall  may  be  perpendicular,  and  it  should  be 
bedded  with  cement  or  fine  concrete,  as  this 
will  prevent  moisture  from  percolating  through 
the  joints. 

The  object  in  building  the  two  together,  as 
well  as  the  ends,  is  to  have  them  properly  bound 
together,  which  is  secured  by  putting  stones 
across  at  intervals  between  the  two  walls  and 
joining  the  two,  so  as  to  prevent  them  from 
opening.  At  the  time  the  work  is  progressing, 
the  soil,  which  should  be  good  loam,  ought  to  be 
put  in,  and  it  must  be  well  beaten  down  from 
time  to  time  lest  cavities  be  formed  as  it  sinks, 
which  will  be  detrimental  to  the  plants.  The 
outer  part  of  the  wall  may  either  be  built  dry, 
as  in  the  case  of  a  dry  stone  fence,  or  partly 
with  good  mortar  or  cement.  Plenty  of  cavities 
should  be  left,  however,  for  the  insertion  of 
plants,  and,  as  far  as  possible,  these  must  be 
planted  as  the  work  of  building  proceeds.  The 
inner  wall,  if  the  structure  is  a  small  one,  may 
be  4J  inches  thick ;  but  if  large,  9  inches  will  be 
better,  especially  as  it  should  bear  the  weight  of 
the  rafters  for  the  roof.  It  will  be  found 
desirable,  even  for  a  rubbish-heap,  to  have  a  door 
with  a  latch,  instead  of  a  mere  opening,  and 
ventilation  must  be  provided  near  the  top  of  the 
roof.  In  most  cases  the  structure  will  be  against 
a  wall,  and  a  lean-to  roof  is  all  that  is  required. 
The  rafters  should  be  fairly  thick,  about  4-J  inches 
by  2  inches  being  suitable  for  most  small  roofs  of 
this  class.  Some  use  small  iron  rafters,  such  as 
those  made  from  old  rails. 

The  simplest  roof  is  that  made  of  corrugated 
iron,  well  pitched  and  then  covered  with  about 
2  inches  of  soil.  The  slope  should  not  be  too 
great,  or  the  soil  will  be  washed  away  before  the 
plants  are  established.  If  slates  are  employed 
there  should  be  a  greater  fall.  A  flat  roof  of 
concrete  does  not  look  so  well  as  a  sloping  one, 
but  one  of  concrete  can  be  put  on  if  preferred. 

There  is  but  little  limit  to  the  plants  which 
can  be  employed  in  such  a  structure.  In  the 
wall  the  smaller  Campanulas,  Sedums,  the 
encrusted  and  London  Pride  sections  of  Saxifrages, 
Silenes,  Tunica  Saxifraga,  Wallflowers,  Erinus 
alpinus,  Dianthuses  (including  some  of  the 
choicest),  Helianthemums,  Aubrietias,  Arabises 
and  most  of  the  smaller  and  most  easily-grown 
alpines  will  thrive.  On  the  shady  side,  should 
there  be  one,  the  encrusted  and  London  Pride 
Saxifrages  will  also  grow,  and  no  place  could  be 
better  for  the  Ramondias  or  Haberleas  than  this 


358 


THE    GAliDEN. 


[July  24,  1909. 


shady  side  of  the  wall.  On  the  roof  the  taller 
Sedunis,  Dianthuses  of  the  more  erect-growing 
forms,  together  with  the  lovely  single  varieties 
of  Dianthus  plumarius,  Wallflowers  and,  last 
but  not  least,  Bearded  Irises  will  flourish.  The 
latter  can  be  grown  with  a  carpet  of  dwarf 
Sedums,  such  as  S.  lydium,  S.  album  or  S.  acre, 
and  there  is  nothing  more  delightful  in  their 
season  than  a  mass  of  these  Irises  in  bloom  on  the 
roof,  with  their  translucent  petals  of  various 
colours  and  the  sun  shining  through  them. 

The  plants  on  the  roof  will  require  watering 
for  a  time  until  established  ;  but  it  will  only  be 
needed  in  continued  dry  weather  afterwards.  As 
I  know  from  my  own  experience,  such  a  building 
will  not  only  form  a  screen  and  a  protection,  but 
will  also  give  tr)  a  garden  a  feature  of  almost 
unique  interest. 

J)mnfries.  S.  Arnott. 


NOTES  OF    THE  WEEK 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS 

July  23. — National  Sweet  Pea  Society's  Exhi- 
bition, Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster. 

July  28.— The  Gabdbn  Flower  Show,  Horti 
oultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster, 
1  p.  m.  to  6  p.  m.     Admission  free. 

July  30.— Cheadle  and  Cheadle  Heath  Horti- 
cultural Society's  Show  (two  days). 


Flowep  Show  fop  Our   Readers. 

The  forthcoming  exhibition  of  flowers,  fruit  and 
vegetables  which  has  been  arranged  for  our 
readers  will,  as  previously  stated,  be  held  on 
the  28th  inst.  at  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Victoria  Street, 
Westminster,  S.W.  We  would  like  to  impress 
upon  all  those  who  intend  exhibiting  the  necessity 
for  filling  in  and  returning  the  entry  forms  at 
once.  Already  we  have  received  a  large  number 
of  entries,  and  the  show  promises  to  be  an  exceed- 
ingly good  and  interesting  one.  Admission  will  be 
free  from  one  o'clock  until  six  o'clock,  and  we 
hope  as  many  of  our  readers  as  possible  will  make  a 
point  of  attending  and  bringing  their  friends  with 
them,  even  if  they  are  not  exhibiting,  as  we 
believe  there  will  be  plenty  of  first-class  exhibits 
to  be  seen. 

June  Competition  for  Readeps.— 

Owing  to  the  difficulty  in  judging  the  essays  sent 
in  for  the  June  competition,  we  are   unable   to 
announce  the  results  this  week,  but  we  hope  to 
do  so  in  our  next  issue. 
National    Sweet     Pea    Society's 

outings.— On  Friday,  the  16th  inst. ,  a  large 
number  of  members  travelled  to  Reading  to 
inspect  the  society's  oiBcial  trials,  which  have 
been  conducted  in  the  University  College  gardens 
by  Mr.  C.  Foster,  and,  notwithstanding  the 
inclement  weather,  a  most  enjoyable  time  was 
spent.  We  hope  to  refer  to  these  trials  more  fully 
in  a  future  issue.  The  next  day  about  forty  mem- 
bers visited  the  seed  grounds  of  Messrs.  Cooper, 
Taber  and  Co.  at  Witham,  where,  unfortunately, 
the  Sweet  Peas  were  not  quite  forward  enough  for 
inspection.  After  being  entertained  to  lunch  by 
the  firm,  the  party  left  Witham  in  conveyances 
kindly  provided  by  Mr.  William  Deal  and 
Messrs.  E.  W.  King  and  Co.  for  Kelvedon, 
where  about  thirteen  miles  of  Sweet  Peas  were 
inspected  on  Mr.  Deal's  Brooklands  estate. 
Some  very  beautiful  and  promising  new  varieties 
were  seen  here,  one  being  quite  a  new  losy 
mauve  shade  and  another  being  an  improved 
George  Stark  or  an  intense  scarlet  waved  Queen 
Alexandra.  A  very  good  strain  of  Aurioula- 
eyed  Sweet  Williams  also  attracted  much  atten- 
tion. After  tea  the  party  left  Kelvedon  for 
Coggeshall,  where  the  growing  crops  of  Messrs. 
E.  W.  King  and  Co.  were  inspected,  after 
which  another  tea  was  provided  and  a  tired  but 
happy  company  left  for  London.     Great  credit  is 


due  to  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis  and  Mr.  H.  J.  Wright  for 
the  excellent  arrangements,  which  added  much 
to  the  enjoyment  of  the  outings. 

Mp.    Gumbleton'a    grapden,    Bel- 

gTPOVe,  QueenStOW^n. — We  have  received 
a  most  interesting  and  instructive  note  from  Mr. 
Gumbleton  detailing  the  contents  of  certain 
portions  of  his  garden  at  Belgrove.  In  flower 
there  now  are  choice  Delphiniums,  Dimorpholheca 
aurantiaca.  Coreopsis  King  of  Tom  Thumbs, 
hybrid  Montbretias,  Bidena  pilosa.  Salvia 
splendens  Fireball,  double  white  Ten-week  Stock 
Bismarck,  Tropa'olum  fimbriatum  Isola  Bella, 
Dahlia  lignea,  Linaria  dalmatioa,  Glaucium 
Fiseheri,  Argemone  grandiflorum,  Symphiandra 
Hofl'mannii  and  S.  asetica,  Alyssum  spinosum 
roseum.  Lychnis  eognata,  Cimpanulas  amabilis, 
betonicasfolia  and  miohauxioides.  Gladiolus 
princeps,  and  a  bed  of  Calla  elliotiana  carpeted 
with  Cartel's  Eschscholtzia  hybrida  Diana,  new 
annual  Calandrinia  chromantha.  Campanula 
peregrina  or  primulajfolia.  Lobelia  cardinalis 
Firefly,  Inulas  Roylei,  glandulosa  superba,  fim- 
briata  and  speciosissima,  Crinum  Powellii  album, 
Braohycome  iberidifolia  Blue  Star,  Anchusa 
capensis,  A.  furcata,  Helichrysum  monatrosum 
flore-pleno,  Impatiens  Oliveri  and  all  the  best 
forms  of  Chrysanthemum  Leucanthemum  or  Ox- 
eye  Daisies.  These,  with  other  flowers,  are  used 
in  the  beds,  forty-two  in  number  ;  but  want  of 
space  prevents  the  entire  list  being  given.  The 
contents  of  twenty-two  small  round  beds  dotted 
about  the  garden  are  Geranium  Lowii  or 
anemonefoliura,  Dahlia  CoUerette  Maurice 
Ri voire,  Aster  flore-pleno  Beauty  of  Colwall, 
Dahlia  coronata,  D.  odorata  Bruantii,  Dianthus 
Comte  de  Kerkove,  Antirrhinum  calycinum, 
Pasonia  Germania  (sweet-scented),  seedling 
Tweedia  cerulissima,  Hemerocallis  disticha  flore- 
pleno,  Salvia  dichroa,  Lupinus  polyphyllus  roseus, 
Lilium  speoiosum  Henryii,  Inoarvillea  grandiflora 
or  Fargesii,  Tunica  Saxifraga  flore-pleno,  Roses 
Lady  Gay,  Perle  des  Neiges  and  Hiawatha, 
Lathyrus  panonicus  Smithii  and  Montanoa 
moUissima. 

Notes  fPOm  Wisley.— How  beautiful 
just  now  are  the  Japanese  Irises,  which  grow  in 
such  large  quantities  in  the  long  serpentine  gully 
away  on  the  right  of  the  glass  houses  !  Everyone 
who  has  a  dell  or  ditch,  or  will  make  a  similar 
cutting  through  which  a  thin  stream  of  water 
can  percolate,  should  see  these  Ksempferis  at 
Wisley.  Very  many  are  self-sown  seedlings,  and 
should  any  that  are  inferior  flower  they  are 
eliminated.  There  are  few  gardens  anywhere 
that  can  show  a  more  beautiful  display  of  these 
glorious  Irises  than  can  be  seen  at  Wisley.  Very 
recently  I  remarked  upon  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons' 
planting  of  Lilium  giganteum  in  water  at  Long 
Ditton.  Away  in  a  retired  part  of  the  Wisley 
wild  gardens  is  a  group  of  some  ten  or  twelve 
plants  of  this  Lily,  all  in  grand  bloom.  The 
stems  range  from  6  feet  to  8  feet  in  height,  and 
each  one  carries  a  fine  head  of  bloom.  Grown 
here  amid  a  distinctly  woodland  surrounding, 
beneath  overhanging  trees  and  on  soil  that 
is  evidently  moist,  this  group  is  indeed  a  beauti- 
ful picture.  How  much  it  made  me  wish  when  I 
saw  it  that  colonies  of  many  of  our  finest  Lilies 
could  be  planted  in  the  same  way.  Not  far  off^ 
Lilium  Hansonii,  in  a  clump,  was  flowering 
gloriously.  Lilium  auratum  has  grand  flowers, 
but  so  many  others  seem  to  ba  much  more 
graceful  and  ornamental.  The  Vines  in  the  large 
span  house  devoted  to  Grapes  are  again  this  year 
fruiting  superbly.  It  is  indeed  now  a  rare  cir- 
cumstance that  anyone  can  see  forty  diverse 
varieties  all  fruiting  at  the  same  time.  It  is 
hoped  that  a  remarkably  fine  show  of  ripe  Grapes 
will  again  be  made  at  Vincent  Square  in  the 
autumn.  Little  effort  to  force  is  made,  all  the 
varieties  being  grown  in  very  moderate  heat. 
Mr.  S.  T.  Wright  mentioas  that  Prince  of 
Wales,  although  fruiting  well,  has  somewhat 
small  leafage  and  needs  thin  shading  in  broad 
aunshine,      A   very  inclusive  trial   of    Cabbage 


Lettuces  for  testing  both  varieties  and  nomencla- 
ture has  been  conducted  this  season,  and  has 
given  the  highest  satisfaction. — A.  I). 

An  Ipisli  liopticultupal  society.— 

We  have  received  a  copy  of  the  schedule  of  t  he 
Kingstown  Horticultural  Society,  whose  show  is 
to  be  held  in  the  Public  Park,  Kingstown,  on 
Wednesday,  August  11.  The  schedule  is  a  good 
and  comprehensive  one,  and  although  the  prizes 
are  not  large,  there  should  be  a  good  display  of 
Roses,  Dahlias,  Bagonias,  greenhouse  plants, 
Sweet  Peas,  Carnations  and  general  hardy 
flowers,  together  with  fruits  and  vegetables,  for 
all  of  which  classes  are  arranged.  Full  particu- 
lars can  be  obtained  from  the  hon.  secretaries, 
Municipal  Technical  School,  Kingstown. 

United  Hopticultural  Benefit  and 

PPOVident  Society.- The  monthly  meet- 
ing of  this  society  was  held  at  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster,  on 
Monday,  .July  12.  Mr.  Charles  F.  Harding  was 
in  the  chair.  Eight  new  members  were  elected. 
The  death  certificate  of  the  late  Mr.  William 
Colton  was  produced,  and  a  cheque  for  £71  lOs.  2d. 
was  drawn  for  his  nominee,  being  the  amount 
standing  to  the  late  member's  credit  in  the  books 
of  the  society.  The  usual  quarterly  payments 
from  the  Benevolent  Fund  were  made,  and  two 
lapsed  membern'  accounts  paid  out.  A  cordial 
vote  of  thanks  to  the  chairman  ended  the 
meeting. 

Hemel   Hempstead   Rose   and 

Sweet  Pea  SllOW.— The  second  annual 
show  was  held  at  Hemel  Hempstead  on  Wednes- 
day, .July  7,  and  the  society  is  to  be  congratu- 
lated on  the  pretty  effect  produced.  Entries 
were  numerous  and  the  large  marquee  well  filled. 
In  the  open  class  for  Roses,  Messrs.  Burch  of 
Peterborough  won  the  first  prize ;  while  for 
Sweet  Peas  Mr.  Waterton  of  Heath  Farm  House 
Gardens,  Watford,  secured  the  premier  honours. 
For  six  vases  of  Sweet  Peas,  Mr.  Percy  Cottam 
of  King's  Langley  showed  most  excellent  flowers ; 
and  Mrs.  Maitland  Thompson  was  placed  first 
for  a  basket  of  Carnations.  Some  40  feet  of 
tabling  was  covered  with  an  honorary  exhibit 
from  the  gardens  of  Mrs.  Longman  at  Shendish, 
and  consisted  of  a  series  of  arches  of  miniature 
Roses  and  Smilax,  vases  of  Pteonies,  Roses, 
Sweet  Peas,  Geums  and  a  choice  collection  of 
other  hardy  herbaceous  flowers.  The  effect  pro- 
duced was  so  universally  admired  that  the 
society  intends  forming  a  class  for  decorated 
arches.  — Onlooker. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

{The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the   opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

Some    Roses   at   W^isley.— It  is  so 

common  on  the  part  of  rosarians  to  advise 
planting  Roses  on  stiff',  retentive  soils  that  it 
is  just  possible  many  persons  not  favoured  with 
such  stiff  soils  refrain  from  planting  these  flowers. 
The  soil  at  Wisley,  especially  on  the  south 
side  of  the  gardens,  is  intensely  sandy ;  indeed, 
it  is  little  better  than  a  deep,  solid  sand-bed  ; 
yet  on  it  Roses  grow  splendidly.  It  is  not  so 
much  the  climbers,  of  which  there  are  many 
on  the  tall  poles  which  margin  the  Rose-borders 
of  the  entrance  walk,  as  these  it  is  well  known 
are  very  accommodating.  It  is  rather  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas, 
which  seem  to  do  wonderfully  well,  many  of 
them  flowering  gloriously.  But  the  other  day 
a  Rose  of  singular  beauty  and  flowering  wonder- 
fully, making  indeed  the  most  beautiful  of  all 
bedders,  was  Zepherin  Drouhin — flowers  cherry 
red.  Mildred  Grant  was  carrying  superb  blooms. 
Very  fine  also  were  Grand  Due  de  Luxem- 
bourg, Mrs.  J.  Laing,  La  Tosoa  and,  not  the 
least  beautiful,  Comtesse  du  Cayla  — D. 

Pea  Sutton's  Early  Giant.— I  can 
fully  endorse  all  Mr.  Wythes's  remarks  in  Thb 


July  24,  1909.] 


THE    (1ardp:n. 


359 


Gabdbn  for  July  10  about  this  Pea ;  but  I  do  not 
thiok  the  illustration  does  it  full  justice,  as  I 
see  there  it  only  gives  eight  Peas  in  a  pod,  and 
I  have  had  plenty  this  year  with  ten  and 
eleven  Peas  in  each. — H.  A.  Kino,  Eempstmie, 
Corfe  Castle. 

APtlfloial  manure.  —  I  am  greatly 
obliged  for  the  courteous  reply  of  "  A  User  of 
Spent  Hops  "  to  my  recent  query,  and  I  should 
be  further  obliged  if  your  correspondent  would 
kindly  inform  me  whether  the  same  items  are 
alone  sufficient  even  for  Asparagus ;  and,  if  so, 
when,  how  and  in  what  quantities  the  material 
should  ,be  applied.  It  would  seem  difficult  to 
dig  these  in  without  risk  of  injury  to  the 
crowns.  The  quantity  of  Hops  advised  for 
ordinary  crops  is,  I  think,  lib.  to  a  square 
yard,  which  seems  very  little  and  rather  a 
rough-and-ready  measure,  seeing  the  weight 
varies  so  much  according  to  the  amount  of 
moisture  in  the  Hops.  A  recent  consignment 
to  me  was  very  wet.— A.  W.  M. 

A  fine  Tree  Lupine.— Having 
had  the  pleasure  of  taking  your  valuable 
weekly  journal  for  several  years,  and 
getting  BO  many  "tips"  from  it,  I  thought 
you  would  like  to  have  an  amateur's 
photograph  of  aTreeLupine(8eepage360) 
which  I  bought  as  a  very  tiny  plant  from 
Mr.  Priohard,  of  Christchurch  fame.  It  is 
only  two  and  a-half  years  old,  measures 
12J  feet  in  width  and  is  9  feet  high. 
Not  only  has  it  bloomed  for  a  month,  but 
the  perfume  is  delightful.  We  had  a 
very  cold  winter ;  in  fact,  it  registered 
in  my  garden  once  19°  and  at  another 
time  21'  of  frost,  so  they  can  be  called 
hardy  plants.  I  do  all  my  gardening 
myself,  but,  of  course,  only  have  three- 
quarters  of  an  acre.  It  struck  me  that 
the  Tree  Lupine  should  be  more  culti- 
vated, and  if  properly  trained  can  be 
made  to  Icok  a  perfect  picture. — David 
LoBBiMBR,  Tke  Rosary,  The  3rd  Avenue, 
BranJcsome  Park,  Bournemouth. 

Eremupi   at   Baston  Grey, 

MalmeSbUPy.— The  accompanying 
illustration  is  from  a  photograph  kindly 
sent  to  us  by  Mrs.  Graham  Smith,  and 
represents  Eremurus  robustus  elwesianus 
and  E.  himalaicus  growing  in  the  gardens 
at  Easton  Grey,  Malmesbury,  Wiltshire. 
The  photograph  was  taken  on  .Jane  30, 
and  the  total  height  of  the  tallest  spikes 
was  then  9  feet,  the  length  of  (he  flower- 
spikes  ranging  from  4  feet  to  5  feet. 

Cistus   ladanifepus.— This 
variety  is  the  true  Gum  Cistus,  and  just 
now    (July    12),    where  the    writer    is 
employed,   looks  extremely  pretty.     It 
is  somewhat  fastidious  in    its  require- 
ments, and  so,  perhaps,  for  this  reason 
is  not  very  often  met  with.     A  warm, 
sheltered     position     is     necessary     and 
the    soil    should    be    rather    dry.      So 
treated,  it  will  weather  the  worst  of jl/ winters 
successfully.  This  shrub  has  large,  showy  tflowers, 
the  petals  of  which  are  creamy  white,"  with  a 
purple  blotch  at  their  base,  and  are   borne  in 
clusters  of  three  to  five.  Not  being  of  a  rampant- 
growing  character  it  seldom  requires  pruning ; 
in  fact,  it  can  go  several  years  together  and  not 
be  touched.  Five  feet  to  6  feet  is  its  general  height. 
The  plant  under  notice  i^  facing  west  to  south- 
west.—C.  T.,  Ken  View,  Highgate. 

A  black  PelaPgronium.— The  variety 
with  very  dark — indeed,  almost  black — leaves, 
referred  to  on  page  330,  is  doubtless  the  some- 
what old  black  Vesuvius.  I  saw  it  used  as  a 
bedder  in  the  Forbury  Gardens,  Reading,  some 
three  or  four  years  ago.  It  is  less  robust  than 
the  original  variety,  from  which,  like  West 
Brighton  Gem,  it  seems  to  have  been  a  sport.  It 
is  known  in  commerce  also  under  diverse  names. 
The  foliage  presents  a  striking  contrast  to  that 
of  Flower  of  Spring  Silver-leaved  Pelargonium. 
-A.  D. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


T 


EARLY  STRAWBERRIES  OUTDOORS. 
HERE  is  always  keen  rivalry  among 
Strawberry-growers  to  be  first  in 
gathering  the  first  dish  of  outdoor 
berries  of  the  season,  and  as  there  is 
often  a  scarcity  of  these  fruits 
between  the  indoor  and  outdoor 
crops,  the  first  outdoor  gathering  is  most 
anxiously  awaited.  With  a  little  extra  care  and 
trouble  the  earliest  crop  may  be  very  much 
forwarded,  and  the  Strawberry  season  consider- 
ably extended  in  consequence.  For  the  first 
supply  of  outdoor  fruits  we  plant  annually  a 
long  border  about  12  feet  wide  at  the  foot  ot  a 
south  wall.  This  border  is  considerably  raised 
and  made  to  slope  rather  precipitously  from  back 
to  front.  From  these  plants  we  gather  fruits  quite 
ten  days  earlier  than  from  those  planted  in  the 
open,  and  four  or  five  days  earlier  than  from  two 


WELL-tlROWN   BREMURI   IN   THE   EAST0>.    GREY   GARDENS 
MALMESBURY. 

year  old  plants  in  the  same  position.  The  plants 
are  put  out  as  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted,  which 
is  usually  at  the  end  of  July  or  beginning  of 
August.  This  gives  them  a  chance  to  get  well 
established  before  the  end  of  the  season.  La 
Grosse  Suer^e  is  the  first  to  ripen  ;  but  it  is  a 
very  moderate  cropper,  and  should  not  be 
included  where  large  quantities  of  fruit  are 
required.  Laxton's  Noble  follows  the  latter 
very  closely,  and,  though  it  is  wanting  in  flavour, 
it  makes  up  for  this  by  its  heavy  cropping  qualities. 
For  general  good  qualities  Royal  Sovereign  is  by 
far  the  best.  We  commenced  gathering  this 
year  on  June  14,  several  days  later  than  usual, 
owing  to  the  season  being  so  late.  As  these 
plants  flower  very  early  in  the  season,  it  is 
obvious  that  there  must  be  some  ready  means  of 
protecting  the  blossoms  from  frost.  For  this 
purpose  we  erect  a  temporary  framework  with 
canvas  blinds  fixed  at  the  back.  These  are  let 
down  every  night. 

Frogmore.  E.  Habriss. 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

Budding. — To  the  enthusiastic  cultivator  every 
operation  in  cgnnexion  with  his  garden  is  full 
of  interest ;  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  there  are 
certain  details  which,  calling  for  decidedly  more 
than  the  ordinary  skill  and  care,  are  especially 
fascinating.  Among  such  as  these  ranks  bud- 
ding, whether  it  be  applied  to  fruit  trees  or 
to  Roses.  There  is  so  much  that  the  worker  has 
to  look  forward  to  after  making  so  small  a  start 
that  budding  is  commonly  done  as  a  hobby  when 
the  plants  produced  are  not  required  and  have  to 
be  passed  on  to  friends  or  thrown  away.  The 
present  is  an  excellent  time  for  the  insertion  of 
buds,  since  the  bark  is  working  freely  and  the 
buds  can  be  secured  and  prepared  in  splendid 
condition.  Although  the  operation  indubitably 
calls  for  a  considerable  amount  of  skill  and  care 
in  the  use  of  a  knife  of  razor-like  sharpness, 
there  is  not  the  slightest  reason  why  anyone 
should  not  succeed. 

A  clean,  healthy  stock  is  impera- 
tively necessary,  and  in  the  bark  two 
cuts  must  be  made — the  first  an  upward 
one  from  1  inch  to  2  inches  in  length, 
and  the  second  a  cross  one  of  about  half 
an  inch  ;  the  knife  is  then  reversed, 
or  a  flattened  piece  of  hard  wood  is 
employed,  and  the  bark  on  each  side  of 
the  cut  downwards  is  carefully  opened. 
The  stock  is  then  ready  for  the  insertion 
of  the  bud,  which  is  slipped  into  position 
and  worked  well  down  so  that  the  bud 
itself,  which  stands  midway  in  the 
sheath,  is  situated  at  about  an  equal 
distance  from  the  top  and  bottom  of 
the  incision  prepared  for  its  reception. 
Tying  in  with  bast  or  soft  string 
completes  the  operation,  and  the  only 
point  that  one  has  to  keep  in  mind 
in  reference  to  this  is  not  to  bring 
the  cross-over  so  that  it  comes  in  the 
axils  of  the  leaf,  or  the  bud  will  certainly 
be  choked. 

All  this  is  simple  to  the  careful  worker, 
and  it  will  not  be  in  this  direction  that 
danger   of   failure   will   lie.       The   most 
delicate  part  onmes  with  the  preparation 
of  the  bud.     This,  of  course,  is  cut  from 
a   growing   shoot,   and   to  secure  it  the 
growth  is  taken  in  the  left  hand  and  the 
knife  inserted  beneath  and  drawn  slightly 
inwards  until  the  bud  is  cleared,  when  it 
is  drawn  outwards   again  ;    the  thinner 
the  piece  secured  the  better,  since  there 
is  not  as  much  wood  to  be  removed,  but 
the  base  of  the  bud  must  not  be  cut. 
When  the  bud  is  out  in  its  sheath  the 
point  of  the  knife   is  inserted  and  the 
wood  removed  ;  and  upon  the  manner  in 
which  it  parts  from  the  sheath  judgment 
may  be  formed  as  to  the  suitability  of 
the  bud  for  the  purpose.     If  it  flies  out 
it    may  be  assumed    that    the    bud  is 
over-ripe ;     if  it    hangs    tightly    it    is    under- 
ripe, and  in  neither  case  is  it  likely  to  grow. 
As  it  comes    out    there    should    be    a    feeling 
of  adhesion,  but  not  of  tightness,  which  might 
give  one  the  impression  that  the  base  of  the  bud 
will  be  torn. 

It  is  quite  possible  that  growth  will  soon  push, 
and  when  this  occurs  the  first  ligature  must  be 
promptly  removed  or,  cutting  into  the  bark,  it 
will  do  injury ;  it  is,  however,  necessary  to  put 
on  a  second  one,  or  there  is  great  danger  that  the 
new  shoot  will  be  blown  out  before  the  union  is 
perfect.  With  the  progress  of  growth  in  the  bud 
the  stock  should  be  cut  down  to  the  point  of  in- 
sertion, and  in  this  the  utmost  care  is  essential 
that  the  tender  shoot  shall  not  be  injured  in  the 
slightest  degree.  If,  as  is  comparatively  com- 
mon, the  buds  are  procured  from  a  distanee, 
it  is  most  important  that  they  shall  not  be 
allowed  to  become  dried  and  wilted  on  the 
journey,  or  it  is  futile  to  expect  that  they  will 
bring  satisfaction.  Fruit-grower. 


360 


THE     GARDEN. 


[July  24,  1906. 


THE   ROSE   GARDEN. 


M' 


THE  BEST  ROSES  FOR  COLD,  LATE 
GARDENS. 

ANY  rsaders  of  The  Garden  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Tweed  must  at 
times  be  discouraged  at  the  poor 
results  obtained  from  many  of  the 
finer  Roses,  and  feel  inclined  t» 
give  up  the  cultivation  of  the 
Queen  of  Flowers  in  disgust.  I  have  also  had 
a  large  share  of  disappointment  during  a  number 
of  years,  as  this  garden  is  very  late  and  damp, 
and  numbers  ef  Reses  make  their  growth  so 
late  in  the  season  that  it  has  no  chance  to  be- 
come ripened  before  the  winter.  The  result  is,  of 
course,  that  all  there  soft  shoots  are  killed  back 
by  frost,  and  the  following  season  any  blooms 
produced  are  poor  and  out  of  character,  while 
eventually  the  plant  dies.  Now  there  is  only 
one  certain  remedy   for  this  undesirable   state 


best  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  Captain 
Hayward  (our  best  dark  Rose),  General  Jacque- 
minot, .Jeannie  Dickson,  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire 
(grand  as  a  climber  on  wall  facing  east),  Margaret 
Dickson,  Marie  Baumann,  Marie  Finger, 
Mavourneen,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Mrs.  R.  G. 
Sharman  Crawford,  Suzanne  Marie  Rodooanaehi 
and  Ulrieh  Brunner.  Among  climbers  the  only 
really  satisfactory  sorts  are  Dorothy  Perkins, 
Leuchtstern,  Ards  Rover,  Gloire  de  Dijon, 
Climbing  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Climbing  Caroline 
Testout  and  Griiss  an  Teplitz.  C.  Blair. 

Preston  House  Oardetis,  Linlithyow. 


NEW    ROSES    AT    HOLLAND     PARK 

SHOW. 
The  splendid  exhibition  arranged  by  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  and  held  in  the  beautiful 
grounds  of  Holland  House,  marred  though  it  was 
by  rain,  provided  the  visitors  with  a  most 
sumptuous  feast  of  flowers,  surpassing,  in  the 
opinion  of  many  experts,  even  the  glories  of  the 


A  TREE   LOPINB   (lUPINUS   ARBOREUS)   IN   A   BODRNEMOrTH   GARDEN.      {See  page  .M.9.) 


of  matters,  and  that  is  to  plant  only  such 
varieties  as  give  satisfaction  every  year.  Far 
better  cultivate  half-a-dozen  sorts  that  thrive 
than  attempt  100  varieties  that  as  often  as  not 
fail  even  to  grow  satisfactorily.  During  the  last 
five  or  six  seasons  I  have  noted  all  that  do  best 
here,  and  feel  certain  that  as  they  always 
succeed  in  this  high,  cold  locality,  they  will  do  so 
nearly  anywhere.  We  have  tried  considerably 
over  150  varieties  of  different  types,  but  I  am 
certain  that  not  fifty  of  these  can  be  relied  on 
year  after  year. 

Pure  Teas  we  have  given  up,  except  a  very 
few  at  the  bottom  of  a  brick  wall  facing 
south.  Even  in  that  favoured  spot  they  are  of 
little  use.  Of  the  finer  Hybrid  Teas  we  have 
tried  a  great  many,  but  are  thinking  of  reducing 
these  to  half-a-dozen  or  so.  The  best  are 
Caroline  Testout  (the  finest  of  all  Roses  here). 
Lady  Ashtown,  Clara  Watson,  Antoine  Rivoire, 
Dean  Hole,  Killarney  (very  bad  for  mildew  some 
seasons),  Le  Progr^s,  Liberty,  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay,  Mme  Ravary,  Marquise  Litta,  Prince 
de  Bulgarie  and  Viscountess  Folkestone.     The 


Temple  Show.  Coming  a  few  days  later  than  the 
National  Rose  Show,  it  has  of  late  years  enabled 
our  leading  Rose-growers  to  display  a  far  more 
interesting  number  of  novelties  than  is  possible 
at  this  earlier  show.  This  year  will  probably  be 
voted  the  best  from  this  point  of  view.  Surely  a 
more  notable  group  of  new  Roses  was  never  dis- 
played than  that  of  Messrs.  Alexander  Dickson 
and  Son  of  Newtownards.  This  noted  firm  had 
more  than  two  dozen  of  their  wonderful  creations 
displayed,  not  in  meagre  fashion,  as  is  too  fre- 
quently the  case  when  a  new  Rose  is  first  shown, 
but  in  grand  quantities  of  a  sort  that  demon- 
strates at  a  glance  what  a  Rose  is  worth. 
Perhaps  to  the  lady  visitors  the  most  beautiful 
variety  was 

Duchess  0/  Wellinc/toii.  The  comments  one 
heard  about  this  Rose  must  have  been  gratifying 
to  its  raisers,  some  describing  it  as  a  darker 
Mme.  Ravary.  The  colours,  if  one  can  attempt 
to  describe  them,  are  a  deep  coppery  saffron 
yellow.  With  such  a  colour  and  a  flower  of  the 
Killarney  type,  but  with  larger  petals  and  of 
greater  substance,  surely  the  acme  of  perfection 


is  attained  !  This  was  given  an  award  of  merit, 
which  it  richly  deserved.  Perhaps  the  next 
favourite,  if  that  be  the  right  word  where  all  are 
admired,  is 

WalUr  Speed,  to  which  the  society  gave  its 
award  of  merit.  This  seemed  a  very  poor  award 
for  a  Rose  that  bids  fair  to  supplant  such  a 
favourite  as  Antoine  Rivoire.  The  flowers  are 
of  immense  size,  of  a  deep  lemon  yellow  colour, 
which  fades  to  milky  white. 

Grace  Molyneux  also  received  an  award  of 
merit  and  was  greatly  admired.  It  reminds  one 
of  the  old  Rose  Rubens,  but  is  far  better. 
The  colour  is  creamy  apricot,  with  a  flesh  tint  in 
the  centre.  From  the  fine  blooms  exhibited,  cut 
with  such  long  stems,  one  could  see  that  we  have 
in  this  Rose  one  of  rare  value  for  our  gardens,  and 
the  beauty  of  form  will  evidently  find  favour 
with  exhibitors. 

A  grand  yellow  variety  bids  fair  to  take  the 
Rose  world  by  storm.  At  present  it  is  unnamed, 
the  privilege  of  naming  it  being  accorded  to  the 
eminent  American  horticulturist,  Dr.  Huey. 
This  Rose  reminded  me  of  Etoile  de  Lyon,  but 
doubtless  a  more  suitable  variety  for  British 
gardens,  for  it  seemed  to  be  a  variety  that  would 
suit  our  climate  better.  This  Rose  must  be  a 
great  gain  to  the  Tea-scented  group.  Another 
superb  yellow  is 

A.  H.  Gray.  I  thought  that  it  would  be  an 
improvement  on  Medea,  for,  grand  as  this  Rose 
is,  one  cannot  recommend  it  as  a  really  useful 
sort  to  the  ordinary  grower. 

Mrs.  Hubert  Taylorr  was  much  admired  by 
exhibitors.  Such  a  Rose  would  have  gladdened 
the  heart  of  the  late  Rev.  Foster-Melliar,  who 
knew  how  to  grow  Mme.  Cusin,  a  Rose  it  much 
resembles  in  form,  although  in  its  delicate  pale 
Muriel  Grahame  tint  and  stronger  growth  it  will 
evidently  be  of  greater  usefulness. 

John  Guff  is  a  Hybrid  Tea  that  has  gained 
many  admirers.  It  is  delightfully  sweet,  and 
has  such  immense  outer  petals  that  it  appeals  to 
me  at  once.  The  colour  reminds  one  of  Rev. 
Alan  Cheales,  only  perhaps  clearer  in  its  carmine 
pink  colouring.  The  high,  pointed  centre 
will  make  it  a  Rose  to  be  sought  after  by 
exhibitors. 

Lady  Ursula  I  noted  as  a  glorified  Viscountess 
Folkestone.  It  is  a  grand  flower,  of  great  sub- 
stance, and  one  that  will,  I  am  sure,  be  of 
immense  usefulness  in  our  gardens.      A  stand  of 

Elizabeth  Barnes  was  a  marvel  of  colouring, 
reminding  one  of  Farbenkimigin,  but  with  a  more 
lovelier  formation  of  flower.  I  cannot  speak  too 
highly  of  this  Rose,  and  should  advise  planters 
to  use  it  largely. 

Other  fine  varieties  shown  in  this  splendid 
exhibit  were  Jas.  Coey  (a  deeper-coloured 
Mme.  Hoste),  Mrs.  D.  Jardine,  Mrs.  H.  Brockle- 
bank,  F.  E.  Coulthwaite,  F.  R.  Patzer,  Theresa 
(a  general  favourite  with  the  ladies — a  sort  of 
Ma  Capueine  coloured  Rose),  G.  C.  Waud  (of 
lovely  shade),  Molly  Sharman  Crawford,  Nita 
Weldon,  Harry  Kirk,  Marie  Kenyon,  Margaret 
Molyneux,  Mary  Countess  of  Ilchester  (a  most 
abundant  bloomer),  and  Mrs.  A.  Munt  (a  real 
beauty  of  a  delicate  chamois  yellow). 

In  the  splendid  group  displayed  by  Messrs. 
William  Paul  and  Son  of  Waltham  Cross  I 
noticed 

Juliette,  a  remarkable  hybrid  from  Soleil  d'Or, 
having  carmine-pink  blooms,  the  backs  of  thp 
petals  being  of  old  gold  colour. 

Bianca,  a  lovely  Hybrid  Tea  Rose  of  deliqate 
mauve  and  white  shading.  > 

Alice  Cory  Wright  (Hybrid  Tea).— A  rich 
glowing  shell  pink  colour  of  remarkable  tinting 
and  a  fine  bold  flower. 

Cynthia,  lemon  yellow,  of  the  Kaiserin  Augusta 
Victoria  type,  but  of  greater  vigour  ;  and 

Hugo  Roller,  a  charming  Hybrid  Tea  of  an 
exquisite  combination  of  colours,  lemon  yellow 
and  rich  crimson  pink  outer  petals.  Doubtless, 
on  a  well-drained  warm  soil  this  Rose  will  come 
a  remarkable  colour,  as  will  Lyon  Rose  under 
similar  conditions. 


JtJLT  24,  19W.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


361 


Messrs.  Le  Comu  and  Sons  of  Jersey  brought 
a  very  good  seedling  of  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  which 
they  named 

Mrs.  Philip  Le  Comu. — It  is  a  much  deeper 
shade  of  colour  than  the  well-known  variety, 
having  been  raised  from  that  sort  by  crossing  it 
with  a  dark  Hybrid  Perpetual. 

Messrs.  Merryweather  and  Sons  exhibited  a 
fine  mass  of  their  delightful  new  Polyantha  Rose 

Jessie,  a  most  glowing  scarlet  red  colour  which 
will  be  a  great  boon  to  all  who  use  these  little 
Roses  for  edging  or  bedding  purposes,  and  it 
must  be  a  grand  pot  Rose  for  decorative  work. 

Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons  exhibited  a  new 
Tea  Rose  named 

Beatrice,  which  is  rather  confusing,  seeing  there 
is  already  a  Hybrid  Tea  of  that  name.  The 
colour  is  very  remarkable,  somewhere  between 
Sunrise  and  Beautii  Inconstante,  but  the  flower 
is  thin. 

Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  Cheshunt,  had  some 
delightful  novelties  in  ramblers,  the  best 
beyond  a  doubt  being 

Shower  q/  Gold.  It  is  to  be  hoped  Messrs. 
Paul  will  soon  put  this  Rose  on  the  market, 
for  growers  are  impatient  to  obtain  such  a 
colour,  which  is  sadly  needed,  especially  in 
our  weeping  Roses.  The  flower  is  very  double, 
of  perfect  form,  and  of  a  tint  midway  between 
W.  A.  Richardson  and  Alister  Stella  Gray. 
It  is  also  said  to  have  perpetual-flowering 
qualities,  and,  having  a  wiohuraiana  growth, 
it  will  become  a  general  favourite,  I  feel  sure. 

Ariel  is  a  very  elegant  rambler,  also  of 
the  wichuraiana  ibreed,  a  cross,  I  believe, 
between  this  tribe  and  Tea  Rambler.  The 
blooms  are  something  like  Irish  Glory,  and 
cannot  fail  to  make  a  lovely  object  as  a  pillar 
or  arch  Rose. 

Oipiy  is  scarcely  of  sufficient  character,  I 
think,  although  pretty.  It  is  a  sort  of  creamy 
Helene. 

Buttercup  has  lovely  golden  buds  of  a 
rich  buttercup  tint ;  very  beautiful.  So  also  is 
Goldfinch,  a  great  improvement  on  Electra. 

The  splendid  box  of  Lyon  Rose,  exhibited 
by  Mr.  G.  Prince,  was  a  great  attraction.  It 
must  be  a  general  favourite.  Doubtless  soil 
and  situation  will  aflect  the  colouring  of  this 
Rose  to  a  great  extent ;  those  having  a  warm, 
gravelly  soil  will  produce  it  of  a  really 
intense  shade,  especially  with  the  aid  of  a 
little  guano.  P- 

ROSE    BOB    DAVISON. 

This  brilliantly  coloured  Hybrid  Perpetual 
was  sent  out  by  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons 
in  1902,  and  I  am  surprised  it  is  not  more 
grown.  I  think  it  must  be  that  the  variety 
is  seldom  seen  at  our  exhibitions,  although 
it  has  most  perfect  form  with  pointed  centre, 
but  it  has  not  the  staying  powers  needed 
in  an  exhibition  Rose.  As  a  garden  variety 
it  is  very  valuable,  giving  us  a  delightful 
bit  of  colour  with  its  dazzling  scarlet  buds 
and  blooms.  It  is  scarcely  so  profuse  in  its 
blooming  as  to  warrant  me  calling  it  a  good 
bedding  Rose ;  but  this  variety  could  well 
be  planted  in  the  centre  of  a  bed,  as  its 
growths  are  erect,  and  the  outer  part  of  the 
bed  filled  with  those  brilliant  novelties 
Charlotte  Klemm  and  Ecarlate.  I  think  the 
grouping  of  two  sr  three  sorts  in  one  bed, 
providing  they  are  of  a  similar  shade  of  colour, 
is  a  very  good  plan,  as  this  relieves  the 
bed  of  a  certain  monotony  which  exists  if 
only  one  variety  is  planted  in  it,  besides 
providing  us  with  a  greater  variety  of  forms. 
If  one  or  two  standards  are  desired  to  dot 
over  a  large  bed  of  the  sort  named  above, 
what  better  variety  could  one  suggest  than 
Griiss  an  Teplitz  ?  This  grand  Rose  is  so  very 
brilliant  and  so  showy  in  autumn,  especially 
grown  as  a  standard,  that  ona  marvels  it 
has  not  been  in  greater  damand  in  this 
form.  P- 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


PRIMULA    LITTONIANA. 

THIS  remarkable  Primula  was  fully 
described  on  page  354  of  our  issue 
for  the  17  th  inst.  As  stated  there, 
it  is  an  absolutely  unique  addition 
to  the  Primrose  family,  the  flower- 
spike  reminding  one  more  of  a 
British  Orchid  than  a  Primula.  The  pendulous, 
cone-shaped  flowers  are  of  deep  lilac  colour, 
the  calyces  being  brilliant  red.  It  was  collected 
in  Yunnan  by  Mr.  Forrest,  who  has  been  travel- 
ling for  Bees,  Limited,  Liverpool,  by  whom  it 
was  exhibited  before  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  at  Holland  Park  on  the  6th  and  7th  inst. , 
when  it  received  a  first-class  certificate. 


THE   NEW   PRIMDLA   LITTONIANA.       (SUohtli/ lecluccd.) 


THE    HARDY    PRIMULAS. 

(Continued  from  page  3.39.) 
Primula  vittata. — Another  of  the  recent  intro- 
ductions of  Messrs.  Veitch  from  Western  China, 
growing  at  an  elevation  of  9,<I00  feet  to 
10,000  feet  in  bogs  and  marshes.  A  biennial, 
it  may  be  described  as  a  rose-purple-coloured 
P.  sikkimensis,  which  it  resembles  in  habit 
and  in  the  pose  of  the  flowers.  The  upper 
part  of  the  flowers,  stems  and  calyces  are  covered 
with  a  white  mealy  powder.  It  requires  the 
same  conditions  as  the  Himalayan  plant,  and 
will  form  a  fitting  companion  to  grow  with  it. 

P.  wulfeniana  comes  from  the  limestone  Alps 

of   Eastern   Austria,    and   is   an   excellent   rock 

plant  with  large  deep  purple  flowers.     Wedged 

between  stones  in  a  half-shady  position  it  grows 

freely,  producing  its  flowers  in  April. 

Primula  Hybrids. 

Besides  the    species   mentioned,  which  are 

all  in  cultivation,  there  are  numerous  natural 

hybrids  found  in  various  parts  of  the  European 

Alps  and  Pyrenees,  apart  from  those  which 

have  been  produced  in    gardens.      Some  of 

these  are  of  great  beauty,  and  in  some  oases 

easier  to  grow  than  the  typical  species.     Most 

of    them  will   flourish  under    the   conditions 

which  suit  their  several  parents. 

P.  Arctotis  (Auricula  x  hirsuta).  —  This 
natural  hybrid  is  found  in  the  calcareous 
Alps  of  the  Engadine  and  Tyrol,  and  has 
velvety  red-brown  flowers  of  the  type  of 
Kerner.  Under  cultivation,  however,  many 
beautiful  varieties  have  been  produced  by  Mr. 
Arends  at  Ronsdorf  varying  to  rose,  yellow 
and  white.  The  leaves  are  glandular,  and  show 
the  influence  of  P.  hirsuta,  but  not  so  much 
of  P.  Auricula.  This  plant  is  thought  to 
have  been  the  origin  of  the  garden  Auricula, 
as  it  has  been  in  cultivation  for  some  centuries. 
The  various  forms  are  easy  to  grow  and  do 
well  in  a  somewhat  shady  border. 

P.  assimilis  (superhirsuta  x  integrifolia). — 
Nearer  to  P.  hirsuta  in  habit. 

P.  Bemijiic  (hirsuta  x  viscosa). — Found  in 
the  Bernina  Alps,  with  large  downy  leaves 
and  purplish  flowers.  Intermediate  between 
its  two  parents. 

P.  hiflora  (glutinosa  x  minima). — From  the 
Tyrolese  Alps,  inclining  to  the  latter  parent, 
with  large  lilac-mauve  flowers. 

P.  coronata  (spectabilis  x  subminima). — 
Found  in  the  Southern  Tyrol  and  rare  in 
cultivation. 

P.  digenea  (elatior  x  acaulis). 
P.  dinyana  (integrifolia  x  viscosa).  — Inter- 
mediate, with  dark  purple  flowers,  and  diffi- 
cult to  keep. 

P.  discolor  (Auricula  ■;  oenensis). — Close  to 
Arctotis,  with  white,  yellow  and  rose  coloured 
flowers. 

P.  Dumovlinii  (superminima  spectabilis). 
From  the  Tyrol  and  nearer  in  habit  to  P. 
minima. 

P.  Facchinii  (minima  x  spectabilis). — Like 
a  strong-growing  minima,  with  orbicular, 
bluntly  toothed  leaves. 

P.  floerkeana  (glutinosa  minima). — Found 
at  high  elevations  on  the  granitic  Alps  of 
the  Tyrol,  with  rose-purple  flowers. 

P.  F&rsteri  (viscosa  x  minima). — From  the 
Alps  of  the  Middle  Tyrol,  at  an  elevation 
of  3,000  feet  to  6,000  feet.  It  is  like  a  stout 
P.  minima  with  crimson  flowers. 

P.  Goebelii  (superauricula  ^  viscosa). — 
Alps  of  Styria,  resembling  P.  Arctotis. 

P.  Heerii   (integrifolia         viscosa).— From 
the  high   Alps  of  the  Orisons  and  the  Tyrol. 
A  free-growing  plant  with  crimson  flowers. 
P.  Huteri  (glutinosa  X  minima). — Tyrol. 
P.   intermedia  (superolusiana  X  minima).— 
A  rare  plant  from  Styria. 
P.  JuribeUa  (minima  x  tyrolensis). 
P.  muretiana  (subintegrifolia   x  visoosa)  — 
A  free-growing  plant,  intermediate  batwoen  ii/s 
parents,  with  dark  purple  or  crimson  flowers 


362 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[JvLY  24,  1909. 


p.  obovata  (Aurioula  var.  oiliata  x  tyrolensis). 

P.  Obristii  is  P.  Auricula  var. 

P.  Peyrilfchii  (subauricula       hirsuta). 

P.  Porta;  (Auricula  oenensis). — From  the 
Alps  of  the  Southern  Tyrol,  with  bright  carmine 
flowers  freely  produced  on  strong-growing  plants. 

P.  Portenschlayii  (clusiana       minima). 

P.  pubescens  (Auricula  hirsuta). — Closely 
allied  to  P.  Arototis,  with  almost  glabrous 
leaves.  The  flowers  are  variable  in  colour,  and  it 
is  probably  one  of  the  parents  of  the  garden 
Auricula. 

P.  rhmtica  (superauricula  \  visoosa). 

P.  salisburgensis  (glutinosa  minima). — Very 
near  P.  floerkeana. 

P.  Salisii  (hirsuta   •   viscosa). 

P.  Sendtneri  (Auricula       pedemontana). 

P.  similis. — A  form  of  P.  Auricula. 
(To  he  continued.) 


NEW   SPANISH    IRISES. 
Within  the  last  two  or  three  years  some  fine 
new  varieties  of  Spanish  Irises  have  made  their 


flower  and  give  it  a  lovely  pearly  look,  while 
the  latter  is  a  real  self  and  forms  a  splendid  com- 
panion to  Masterpiece,  flowering  at  the  same 
time.  In  Unique  we  get  what  is  certainly  the 
most  distinct  of  the  new  varieties ;  in  fact,  it  is  a 
new  break  in  Irises  altogether.  The  upper  part 
of  the  flower  is  dark  blue,  while  the  falls  are 
pure  white.  It  received  an  award  of  merit  from 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  June,  1907, 
and  was  much  admired.  Pearson  is  the  last  of 
the  blues  that  I  must  mention.  It  is  a  fine 
large  flower  with  a  good  deal  of  violet  in  its  com- 
position, and  has  very  wide  falls. 

Passing  from  the  blues,  my  particular  favourites 
in  the  other  colours  are :  Walter  T.  Ware 
(award  of  merit,  1907),  a  fine  primrose  yellow. 
L'Innoeenoe,  a  large  white  of  medium  height 
with  a  very  prominent  deep  yellow  stripe  on  the 
falls  ;  I  think  it  is  the  most  effective  of  all  the 
whites.  Sweetheart,  a  creamy  yellow  and  white 
bloom,  is  distinguished  by  its  peculiar  imbricated 
falls,  which  give  the  flower  a  character  of  its  own 
among  Irises.  La  Citronniere  has  much  the  same 
colouring  as  the  last,  but  it  is  later  to  come  into 


5«S*: 


THE  R0Y.4L   WATER   LILY   (VICTORIA   REi:lA)   AT   KEW.      (S.e  page  .«J.) 


lappearanee  in  bulb  lists.  I  have  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  growing  a  good  many  of  them,  and  after 
two  years'  experience  I  can  confidently  recom- 
mend the  following  as  some  of  the  most  desirable. 

[The  blue  shades  always  appeal  to  me  more  than 
the  yellows,  whites  or  pale  tones  that  we  get  in 
the  old  La  Tendresse  or  Louise  (Coquette  des 
Blanches) ;  hence  it  is  with  particular  satisfaction 
that  I  have  noticed  that  some  of  the  greatest 
improvements  are  to  be  found  in  my  favourite 
colour.  La  Nuit  is  a  dainty  flower  of  a  pleasing 
shade  of  very  dark  blue,  much  deeper  in  tone 
than  Darling,  and  of  all  the  Spanish  Iris  race  it 
more  nearly  than  any  other  resembles  the  lovely 
I.  reticulata.  It  has  a  slender,  graceful  stem  and 
habit.  Masterpiece  is  another  fine  blue,  not  so 
dark  as  La  Nuit,  but  of  a  peculiar  and  distinct 
shade,  which  is  relieved  by  an  orange  blotch  on 
the  falls.  It  is  fairly  tall  and  one  of  the  latest 
to  come  into  flower. 

Souvenir  and  Excelsior  are  two  very  beautiful 
light  blues  in  which  there  is  not  very  much 
purple,  or,  we  might  say,  in  which  the  purple 
tone  is  reduced  to  a  minimum.  In  the  former 
variety  the  falls  are  paler  than   the  rest  of  the 


flower.  Surbiton  is  a  good  deep  yellow,  but  I 
do  not  think  it  is  any  better  than  Cajanus  ;  this 
last  variety  is  very  fine,  and  coupled  with  the 
earlier  Chrysolora  is  really  all  that  is  wanted  in 
this  colour.  Although  an  old  variety  I  must 
mention  Thunderbolt,  especially  now  that  it  can 
be  bought  as  cheaply  as  these  newer  ones.  It  is  a 
magnificent  yellow  and  bronze,  and  should  be  in 
every  collection  of  these  lovely  flowers.  Spanish 
Irises  like  a  rich  light  soil,  and  they  should  be 
planted  early  ;  if  possible,  before  the  middle  of 
October.  Where  the  position  suits  them  they 
may  be  left  undisturbed  for  two  or  three 
years.  Joseph  Jacob. 

SWEET    PEA    NOTES. 

BnsH  Sweet  Pea  Fouaoe  fob  Vases. — We 
all  know  that  cut  flowers  as  a  rule  look  best 
when  they  are  arranged  with  their  own  foliage. 
Now  that  Sweet  Peas  are  cultivated  so  highly  we 
get  rather  large  and  coarse  leaves  and  shoots,  and 
I  have  sometimes  thought  that  these  are  a  little 
heavy  in  vases,  and  that  if  we  could  only  have 
them  smaller  and  lighter  looking  it  would  be  a 


great  impravemsnt.  Just  to  see  what  they  are 
like,  I  am  growing  this  year  a  small  collection 
of  bush  Sweet  Peas,°'and  while  I  do  not  think 
much  of  them  as  decorative  plants  for  the  garden, 
I  have  discovered  that  their  foliage  is  the  very 
thing  that  is  wanted  to  go  with  out  flowars  of 
the  ordinary  types.  In  future  I  shall  always 
grow  some  for  this  purpose,  and  I  feel  sure  that 
anyone  who  tries  the  same  thing  will  not  be 
disappointed  when  they  come  to  arrange  vases  of 
Sweet  Peas  in  1910. 

7.3  the  Spencer  Type  an  Old  One  ! — "  There 
is  nothing  new  under  the  sun."  The  last 
example  that  proves  the  truth  of  the  above 
saying  is  the  Spencer  Sweet  Pea.  I  did  think 
that  the  waved  standard  that  we  now  know  so 
well  originated  only  a  few  years  ago  in  a  garden 
at  Althorpe  or  Wem.  Imagine  my  surprise 
when  I  saw,  on  the  evening  of  the  first  day  of  the 
Holland  House  Show,  at  Messrs.  Wtsley  and 
Sons  of  Essex  Street,  Strand,  in  a  beautiful 
collection  of  flower-paintings  by  the  best  Dutch 
artists,  a  representation  of  a  Pea  with  an  un- 
doubted waved  pink  standard  and  white  wings. 
There  was  in  the  same  group  a  second  Pea  with 
a  reddish  standard  and  bluish  wings,  which  was 
of  I  the  ordinary  grandiflora  type  with  a  deep 
notch  in  the  middle  of  the  standard.  There  were 
also  an  annual  Larkspur  and  a  Rose.  There  is 
no  reason  to  doubt  the  accuracy  of  the  drawing. 
The  collection  of  paintings  was  formed  and 
completed  before  1850.  This  particular  one  is 
undated  and  unsigned,  but  from  the  look  of 
the  paper  it  was  very  probably  done  about 
1820.  Joseph  Jacob. 


STEPS  IN  THE  ROCK  GARDEN. 
Ready  means  of  access  to  the  plants  on  the 
rockeries  are  always  required,  and  where  the  rock 
garden  is  of  any  size  it  must  be  traversed  by  con- 
venient paths,  which,  again,  must  rise  above  the 
ground  level  if  the  rock  garden  is  of  any  height.  lu 
some  cases  sloping  pathways  will  answer,  and 
these  are  advisable  as  a  change ;  but,  as  a  whole, 
the  introduction  of  flights  of  steps  will  be  found 
most  suitable,  as  they  afford  more  scope  for 
decorative  treatment  by  the  introduction  of 
flowers  between  the  stones.  The  illustration  on 
the  next  page  shows  a  simple  flight  of  a  few 
steps  planted  with  alpioes  and  giving  convenient 
access  to  a  rock  garden  several  feet  high.  It  is 
constructed  of  sandstone,  and,  as  will  be 
observed,  some  of  the  stones  are  not  the  full 
size  of  the  tread,  thus  affording  spaces  for 
flowers  between.  At  the  base  will  be  observed, 
to  the  right,  the  pretty  Vanoouveria  hexandra 
with  a  mossy  Saxifrage  above  it,  and  above  that 
again  a  mass  of  Cerastium  arvense,  a  useful  thing 
for  such  a  place.  On  the  other  side  are  several 
Sedums,  or  Stonecrops,  and  a  clump  of  a  selected 
variety  of  Aubrietia  olympica.  About  the  steps 
themselves  are  Arenaria  balearica,  mossy 
Saxifrages,  Saxifraga  Cymbalaria  and  a  few 
other  dwarf  plants. 

In  the  construction  of  such  stairways  it  is 
essential  for  the  comfort  of  the  visitor  that  the 
steps  should  be  made  quite  firm  and  that  they 
should  not  be  too  rough,  althoughgreat  smoothness 
is  not  advisable,  as  it  takes  away  the  character 
of  the  garden.  Even,  however,  wher«  the  only 
steps  available  are  smooth  and  too  finished,  the 
free  planting  of  alpines  between  will  do  much  to 
modify  the  artificial  appearance,  and  this  is  easily 
secured  in  such  cases  by  leaving  a  little  space 
between  the  tread  and  the  rise  of  the  higher  step  ; 
in  this  soil  and  plants  are  placed,  both  being 
made  rather  firm,  so  that  heavy  rains  do  not 
wash  them  away  before  the  plants  have  had 
an  opportunity  af  getting  fully  established.  It 
is  well  to  remind  those  thinking  of  making  rock- 
work  steps  that  the  plants  on  these  should  not 
be  of  tall  habit,  otherwise  they  will  be  injured  by 
visitors.  Such  things  as  Arenaria  balearica, 
Acfena  Buohananii  and  some  of  the  mossy 
Saxifrages  are  ideal  plants  for  the  purpose. 

Dxvmjriis.  S.  Arnott. 


JtJLY  U,  1900.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


36^ 


THE     GREENHOUSE.} 

THE    KOYAL    WATER    LILY.  j 

VICTORIA  REGIA,  the  Royal    Water  i 
Lily,    is,  perhaps,  the  most  remark- 
able o£  all  aquatic  plants,  but  oppor- 
tunities of    seeing    it    are    not   fre-  ' 
quent,    for    it    is    only    in    gardens 
such      as      Kew,      Regent's      Park  ' 
Botanic    Garden,    Glasnevin,  and   a    few  other 
establishments   where  special  houses  are  given 
for   its    culture,    that    it    may   be    seen.      The  > 
great  size  to    which    it    grows    necessitates    a  | 
large   expanse    of    water,    for   it   must    not   be 
crowded  if  its  true  beauty  is  to  be  obtained. 
The    leaves  are   of  unusual   dimensions,    often 
attaining  a   diameter   of  6  feet, 
with  a  turned-up  rim  of  4  inches 
to    6    inches.      Owing    to    their 
strength  and  the  amount  of  space 
they    occupy,     they     are     quite 
capable  of   supporting    a   person 
weighing  at  least  lOst.    The  upper 
surface    of    the   leaves  is  bright 
green,  the  under-side  being  red- 
dish,  and    the    veins     protected 
with  ferocious  spines. 

The  flowers  are  borne  at  inter- 
vals of  two  or  three  days  from 
June  onwards  until  late  autumn. 
They  are  about  1  foot  in  diameter, 
white  when  they  first  expand, 
changing  to  a  reddish  hue  as  they 
age.  Under  cultivation  the  plant 
is  treated  as  an  annual,  but  it  is 
really  a  perennial.  Seeds  are 
ripened  in  this  country,  but  great 
care  is  required  to  keep  them 
good  between  collecting  and 
sowing.  They  must  never  be 
allowed  to  become  dry,  but  must 
be  stored  in  water  in  an  equable 
temperature.  The  most  suitable 
time  to  sow  is  the  first  week  in 
January,  and  a  temperature  of 
75°  to  85°  Fahr.  must  be  given. 

The  young  plants  must  be  kept 
growing  in  pots,  without  a  check, 
in   the    same    temperature   until 
April,  when  they  should  be  placed 
in  their  permanent  positions.    One 
plant   is,   however,    all    that    an 
ordinary  tank  will  hold.     A  bed 
should   be  made  of   4    yards   or 
5  yards  (cubic)  of  good    loam  a 
week  or  two  before  the  plant  is 
to  be  inserted.     The  tank,  which 
must    contain     hot-water    pipes, 
should  then  be  filled  with  water, 
and  the  whole  allowed  to  attain  a 
temperature    of    85°    before    the 
plant  is  inserted.     The  tempera- 
ture of  the  house  at  this  period 
may  be  70°  to  75°,  and   higher 
with  sun-heat.     As   it  is    essen- 
tially   a     sun-lover,    no    shading 
whatever     must    be    given  ;     in 
fact,    the     sunnier     the    season 
the  better  the  plant  thrives.     Although   really 
an  indoor  plant   in  this  country,  it  has  been 
grown  and   flowered    successfully    outdoors    in 
South  Wales.     This  occurred  in  a  specially  pre- 
pared tank  in  the  garden  of  Sir  John  Llewelyn, 
Bart.,  at  Penllergare,  near  Swansea.     The  plant 
is  a  native  of  Guiana  and  La  Plata,  and  is  common 
in  many  reaches  of  the  Amazon.    The  illustration 
on  page  362  represents  a  fine  plant  growing  at 
Kew  in  1908.  R.  V. 


lost  to  cultivation  for  some  years,  for  it  is  only 
quite  recently  that  it  has  been  shown  in  a 
flowering  state.  Messrs.  James  Veitoh  and 
Sons  of  Chelsea  exhibited  it  at  some  of  the 
meetings  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  last 
winter  or  in  early  spring,  and  the  freely 
flowered  little  specimens  were  admired  by  many. 
It  belongs  to  the  Natural  Order  Onagraoeae, 
which  includes  at  least  one  popular  class  of 
plants,  viz. ,  the  Fuchsia.  This  Lopezia  is  a  soft- 
growing  subject  which,  if  stopped  once  or  twice 
during  its  earlier  stages,  forms  a  dense,  freely 
branched  little  specimen,  whose  shoots  are 
furnished  with  ovate  leaves  about  1  inch  in 
length,  thin  in  texture,  and  of  a  rather  pale 
green  colour.  The  flowers,  which  are  borne 
singly  on  long  slender  stems  towards  the  upper 


A     PRETTY     WINTER  -  FLOWERING 
GREENHOUSE    PLANT. 

(LOPBZIA   MINIATA.) 

This  Mexican  plant,  which  was  first  introduced 
nearly  a  century  ago,  would  appear  to  have  been 


STONE   STEPS   IN   A  ROCK   GARDEN. 

part  of  the  shoots,  are  of  a  pleasing  shade  of 
bright  reddish  pink.  They  are  so  numerous 
that,  though  individually  only  about  half  an 
inch  in  diameter,  a  specimen  when  at  its  best 
is  very  attractive. 

'      Cuttings  of  the  young  growing  shoots  taken  in 

I  the  spring  strike  root  as  readily  as  those  of  a 

Fuchsia,  and  treated  in  the  same  way  the  young 

'  plants  make  rapid  progress.      In  the  warmest 

'  part  of  the  greenhouse,  or  in   an  intermediate 

temperature,  it  is  seen  at  its  best  during  the 

winter  and  early  spring  months.     Throughout 

the  summer  it  needs  no  fire-heat.     During  the 

summer  this  Lopezia  is  liable  to  ibe   attacked 

by  that  little  mite   which    often  Iplays    havoc 

among    Begonias.      In    shape    the    flowers    are 

remarkably  singular  and   almost    impossible  to 

describe.  H.  P. 


GREENHOUSE  CLIMBERS. 
When  with  little  expense  and  a  fair  amount  of 
ease,  the  roof  of  the  conservatory,  as  well  as  the 
floor  and  stages,  can  be  clothed  with  flowers  or 
foliage,  it  always  seems  to  me  to  make  the  sur- 
roundings doubly  interesting,  and  I  know  of  few 
subjects  which  give  such  a  good  return  for  the 
little  attention  they  require  than  the  Fuchsias. 
Their  eardrop-shaped  flowers,  coming  in  clusters 
as  they  do  in  the  summer  months,  lend  themselves 
remarkably  well  for  overhead  treatment ;  but  it 
is  only  when  they  are  seen  in  a  mature  state  and 
in  their  summer  glory  that  a  strong  desire  is  felt 
to  try  them.  Like  most  other  plants  that  attain 
large  dimensions,  they  are  more  at  home  when 
planted  out  than  when  given  artificial  and  trouble- 
some pot  culture,  whatever  the 
size  of  the  pot  might  be.  To  those 
who  have  not  already  tried  the 
training  of  Fuchsias  to  the  rafters 
of  their  greenhouse  a  real  pleasure 
is  in  store,  but  it  is  necessary  to 
begin  early — first thecutting ;  then 
the  small  plant,  which  must  be 
allowed  to  grow  at  will  and,  for 
preference,  as  a  single  cordon, 
keeping  the  side  shoots  well 
pinched ;  and  eventually,  when 
the  plants  are  large  enough, 
planted  out  in  the  positions  in 
which  they  are  to  remain.  Many 
an  iron  post  which  acts  as  a 
support  can  be  made  a  thing  of 
beauty  by  the  companionship  of  a 
cordon-trained  Fuchsia. 

Of  course,  the  plants  are 
deciduous  and  require  rest  in  the 
winter  months ;  but  this  is  more 
of  a  convenience  than  a  draw- 
back, for  they  can  then  be  pruned, 
washed,  cleaned  and  put  in  order 
for  another  year's  duty.  Once 
established,  they  are  little  trouble 
at  the  roots,  for,  like  those  of  the 
Vine,  they  have  a  habit  of 
wandering  into  every  crevice,  and 
seem  to  revel  if  they  can  get  well 
under  a  brick  or  stone  floor. 
Neither  are  they  unlike  the  Vine 
in  their  requirements  when  being 
planted,  for  what  will  suit  the  Vine 
undoubtedly  suits  the  Fuchsia. 

Tropceolum  lobbianum  is  also  an 
inexpensive  yet  an  admirable  and 
useful  plant  for  training  overhead. 
It  will  cover  an  extensive  area  in 
a  few  years,  and  in  the  winter 
months  its  scarlet  flowers  are  very 
welcome  for  cutting.  Seeds  of 
this  should  be  sown  early  in  the 
spring,  and  the  plants  given  a 
good  compost  to  grow  in. 

Cob(ea  scandetu  variegata.  — 
Another  useful  yet  somewhat 
neglected  climber,  usually  grown 
for  the  beauty  of  its  leaves.  For 
large  conservatories  it  gives  a  well- 
furnished  efiect,  and  if  streamers 
are  allowed  to]  hang  down  3  feet  or  4  feet  and 
more,  its  beauty  is  considerably  enhanced.  If 
small  plants  are  purchased  in  the  spring  and  a 
good  start  is  given  them  by  planting  in  a  well- 
prepared  soil  and  position,  they  are  little  trouble, 
and  will  find  their  way  quite  easily  to  the  top  of 
a  house  if  given  wire  to  cling  to.  When  they 
have  covered  their  available  space  a  little  thinning 
is  necessary  to  prevent  overcrowding,  and  a  good 
cleansing  at  least  once  a  week  is  necessary.  This 
can  be  done  with  a  syringe,  garden  engine  or 
hose-pipe,  providing,  of  course,  the  water  is  not 
too  cold  and  that  all  tender  plants  underneath 
are  moved  beforehand.  The  effect  of  Cobfeis  is 
often  spoilt  by  giving  them  too  little  water,  which 
causes  the  leaves  to  turn  yellow.  They  well 
repay  for  special  care.  George  Bcjrruws. 

Shendish  Gardens,  ffemel  llempslcud. 


364 


THE    GARDEN 


fJuiT  24,  1909 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

THE  FLOWER  GARDEN.  —  Liliums 
are  now  very  beautiful  m  the  flower 
garden,  and  where  the  plants  have 
not  been  staked,  no  time  must  be  lost 
in  putting  supports  to  them.  Every 
plant  is  of  much  value,  and  after  the 
trouble  already  expended  on  their  cultivation  is 
past,  it  is  a  pity  to  neglect  to  attend  to  them 


I. — A   SMALL    BRANCH   OF   A   (JOOSEBERRY    MtJSH 
READY    FOR   SUMMER    I'RDJSINO. 

during  the  flowering  period.     Lilium  oandidum 
has  flowered  freely  in  many  gardens  this  year  ; 
but   in    others    the   plants   have   become    badly 
diseased,  in  spite  of  every  efi'ort  on  the  part  of 
the  cultivator  to  keep  them  free  from  it.     As  the 
blooms  have  faded,   no  time  must  be    lost    in 
getting  the  bulbs  lifted  and  replanted   in  freeh 
positions.     Before  disturbing  the  bulbs,  however, 
the  cultivator  must  select  the  new  position  and 
forthwith  trench  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  at  least 
2  feet.     In  the  lower  half  of  the  newly  dug  soil 
mix   some   well-rotted   manure    and    thoroughly 
break  up  the  lumps  if  the  loam   be  of  a  clayey 
nature  ;  and,  furthermore,  add  a  liberal  quantity 
of  gritty  matter,  such  as  that  obtained  from  the 
roadside.     The  drainage  of  the  ground  should  be 
thorough.     Having  prepared  the  new  border,  lift 
the    bulbs  carefully,   avoiding  bruising  of    the 
scales,  as  the  latter  would  turn  brown  and  decay 
if  damaged.     Replant  the   bulbs  as  quickly  as 
possible  6  inches  below  the  surface,  surrounding 
them  with  sandy  soil ;  and  do  not  break  off  any 
of  the  flower-stems,  as  they  must  be  allowed  to 
decay  naturally  and    then    removed    later    on. 
Where  light  soils  obtain,  gently  press  down  the 
portion  immediately  surrounding  the  bulbs,  but 
not  in  cases  where  the  latter  are  planted  in  stiff 
loam.     In  any  case  give  a  good  watering  when 
the  planting  is  finished,  and  then   refrain  from 
supplying  more  from  the  watering-can  unless  the 
weather  continues  dry  for  a  long  time.    Perennial 
plants  in  the  herbaceous  borders  must  have  close 
attention  now,  otherwise  they  will  become  very 
straggling  and  present  an   untidy    appearance. 
Pceonies  and  other  kinds  of  plants   that    bear 
heavy  blooms  need  special  care  in  the  matter  of 
staking,   else  the  flowers  will  lie  on  the  soil. 
Continue  to  pick  off  all  flowers  of  Sweet  Peas 
almost  daily,  so  as  to  prolong   the  blossoming 
period  as  long  as  possible. 

Vegetable    Oarden. — Runner  Beans    are    now 
commencing  to  bear  pods  freely,  and  in  order  to 


reap  the  best  and  fullest  harvest  of  tender 
pods,  all  those  large  enough  for  use  must  be 
gathered  ;  then  new  ones  will  form,  especially  if 
the  plants  are  watered  when  necessary  and 
mulched  with  half-rotted  manure.  Fresh  Parsley 
is  always  welcome,  and  now  is  a  good  time  to 
sow  seeds  on  a  sheltered  border  in  gardens  where 
the  soil  is  nice  and  open  and  in  roughly  con- 
structed frames  where  the  soil  is  heavy  and 
tenacious.  The  simplest  kind  of  frame  will  do. 
One  made  with  four  boards  placed  on  edge  and 
nailed  together  at  the  corners,  so  as  to  support  a 
glass  light,  will  answer  the  purpose  well.  Do  not 
sow  the  seeds  thickly,  and  thin  out  the  resultant 
seedlings  to  about  3  inches  asunder  ;  then  bushy 
plants  with  well-curled  leaves  will  be  obtained. 
Protection  overhead  must  only  be  given  when 
severe  weather  comes.  Endive  is  now  coming  in 
very  useful,  and  in  order  to  mitigate  the  bitter 
taste  means  must  be  taken  to  blanch  the  leaves. 
This  can  be  done  by  placing  clean  tiles,  boards, 
or  slates  right  on  the  hearts  of  the  plants,  the 
outer  leaves  being  left  uncovered.  On  no 
account  must  the  plants  be  covered  while  the 
leaves  are  wet  with  rain  or  dew,  else  they  would 
decay.  The  same  care  must  be  taken  in  the 
tying  up  of  Cos  Lettuces  at  this  season  especially. 
Internal  moisture  will  do  much  harm  to  the 
plants.  The  planting  of  late  crops  of  Celery 
must  be  completed  without  delay.  Do  not  make 
deep  trenches — shallow  ones  are  the  best — then 
the  plants  reap  the  benefit  of  the  best  soil  instead 
of  the  latter  being  used  mainly  for  earthing-up 
purposes,  as  is  the  case  where  deep  trenches  are 
made.  Soil  must  be  kept  from  the  centres  of  the 
plants,  as  it  would  cause  premature  decay  of  the 
stalks  in  winter-time. 

Fruit  Oarden. — When  the  fruit  has  been 
gathered  from  the  Gooseberry  and  Currant 
bushes,  give  the  latter  a  good  syringing  with 
clear  water  to  wash  off  aphides  and  accumulated 
dirt.  Very  old  specimens  of  Black  Currants, 
which  contain  a  lot  of  old  wood,  must  be  attended 
to  at  once.  The  old  branches  should  be  cut  out, 
severing  them  at  the  base ;  then  light  and  air  will 
be  admitted  to  the  younger  shoots,  which  will 
become  stronger  and  more  prolific  in  future 
years.  It  is  also  advisable  to  put  on  a  mixture 
of  mould  and  rotted  manure  to  a  depth  of 
3  inches  round  each  bush.  Peach  and  Nectarine 
trees  trained  on  walls  must  be  protected  by 
placing  fish-netting  over  them  to  prevent  the 
birds  eating  the  fruits.  Wasps  also  will  now  be 
getting  troublesome,  and  every  effort  must  be 
made  to  trap  them.  Do  not  remove  any  badly 
eaten  fruits  at  once,  as  the  wasps  attack  them 
further  and  so  leave  the  sound  ones  severely 
alone  ;  but  directly  the  wasp-nets  are  got  ready 
place  them  in  position  and  remove  the  eaten 
fruits,  as  they  would  attract  the  wasps  ;  the 
nests  of  the  latter  must  be  destroyed. 

Oreenhouse  and  Frames. — Decorative  Pelar- 
goniums which  have  been  out  hard  back  and 
repotted  in  smaller  pots  must  not  be  allowed  to 
get  very  much  potbound  before  the  plants  are 
shifted  into  larger  pots.  Fibrous  loam  two  parts, 
leaf-soil  one  part,  and  rotted  manure  one  part  form 
a  suitable  compost.  Sufficient  coarse  sand  must 
be  put  in  to  render  the  mixture  porous  when 
pressed  down  moderately  firm.  Every  plant 
should  have  short-jointed  shoots,  thick  leathery 
leaves  and  be  quite  free  from  insect  pests.  To 
ensure  such,  place  the  plants  in  the  green- 
house on  a  shelf  close  to  the  glass,  or  in  a 
similar  position  in  a  frame,  and  admit  air 
freely.  Feeding  must  not  be  done  until  the 
pots  are  well  filled  with  roots  after  tha  final 
potting. 


the  summer  pruning  of  rkd 
Currants  and  gooseberries. 

A  GREAT  deal  of  ignorance  prevails  regarding  the 
summer  pruning  of  Currants  and  Gooseberries, 
yet,  in  the  estimation  of  many  of  the  best  quali- 
fied experts,  it  is  thought  to  be  far  more  important 
than  winter  pruning.  What  is  the  object  of  the 
summer  pruning  of  these  two  subjects  ?  The 
careful  and  thoughtful  summer  pruning  has  the 
effect  of  modifying  the  growth  and  is,  un- 
doubtedly, conducive  to  the  formation  of  fruit- 
buds,  from  which  we  are  to  obtain  so  much  in 
the  succeeding  season.  Beginners  should,  there- 
fore, take  advantage  of  the  present  period  for 
pruning  their  Currants  and  Gooseberries. 

In  this  article  and  the  illustrations  it  is  im- 
possible to  clearly  define  all  the  points  that 
require  elucidation,  but  every  beginner  will  quite 
appreciate  the  need  for  the  removal  of  all  sucker- 
like  growths  from  the  base  of  the  bushes.  The 
bushes  should  have  a  clear,  individual  stem 
at  their  base.  The  suckers  have  the  effect  of 
choking  up  the  centre  of  the  bush,  by  which 
means  light  and  air  are  excluded.  Not  only 
should  the  basal  growths  be  removed,  but  also 
all  superfluous  shoots  of  the  superstructure.  It 
is  known  to  almost  every  grower,  however 
limited  his  knowledge  of  fruit  culture  may  be, 
that  weak  and  attenuated  growths  are  always 
cut  out  in  the  winter  pruning.  We  should, 
however,  anticipate  this  work  by  removing  all 
such  undesirable  shoots  in  the  summer  season, 
thus  concentrating  all  the  energies  of  the  roots 
on  the  proper  development  of  the  growths  that 
are  retained. 

Summer  pruning  may  be  done  at  any  time 
between  the  middle  of  .June  and  the  latter  part 
of  July.  Owing  to  the  moist  weather  of  the 
present  season,  this  work  may  be  done  with 
better  effect  at  the  latter  time  than  would  be  the 
case  in  a  normal  season.  The  shoots  may  often 
be  pruned  by  simply  shortening  the  growths  by 
breaking  or  pinching  out  the  brittle  shoots  to 
the  required  length  ;  but  I  prefer  a  sharp  knife 


-THB  SAME  SHOOT  AFTER  SUMMER  PBUKINO 
HAS  BEEN   DONE. 


for  this  work,  as  the  cut  is  made  quite  clean  and 
neat  and  no  strain  is  put  upon  that  portion  of 
the  growth  that  is  retained. 

Opinions  differ  as  to  the  length  of  growth  that 
should  be  pruned.  Some  growers  recommend 
just  pinching  •ut  the  points  of  the  shoots,  but 
this  is  hardly  sufficient ;  others,  again,  advocate 
shortening  the  gross  leading  shoots  half  their 
length,  so  that  sun  and  air  may  penetrate  the 
centre    of    the    bush    to    ripen    the    fruit    and 


July  24,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


366 


3. — A  TYPICAL  BRANCH  OF  A  BED  OB  WHITE 
CURRANT  BUSH  IN  GOOD  CONDITION  FOR 
SUMMER  PRUNING. 

strengthen  the  buds  for  next  year.  There  are 
others  who  speak  very  strongly  of  shortening 
back  the  shoots  to  some  four  or  six  leaves,  and 
give  convincing  proofs  ot  the  advantage  of  their 
system.  A  good  rule  to  follow  is  to  out  out 
weak  and  useless  growths  and  to  shorten  the 
stronger  ones  that  are  retained  to  about  6  inches. 
In  Fig.  1  will  be  seen  an  ordinary  branch  of  a 
Gooseberry  bush  showing  three  or  four  fairly 
strong  shoots.  Not  one  of  them  may  be  regarded 
as  weak  in  any  degree,  but  each  one  is  fraught 
with  great  possibilities  for  another  season.  I 
have  shown  in  Fig.  2  how  this  same  branch 
should  be  dealt  with.  Observe  how  the  shoots 
have  been  shortened  back  to  about  6  inches  or 
8  inches  and  that  each  shoot  has  the  same 
number  of  leaves  retained,  which  means  that 
there  should  be  the  same  number  of  plump  buds 
to  develop  fine  fruits  another  season. 

In  the  case  of  both  Red  and  White  Currants 
the  treatment  is  much  the  same  as  that  recom- 
mended for  Gooseberries.  As  a  rule,  however, 
there  is  a  smaller  number  of  shoots  on  each 
branch.  In  Fig.  3  a  typical  shoot  of  a  Red  or 
White  Currant  bush  is  given.  Note  that  there 
are  three  fairly  good  shoots,  each  of  which  is 
capable  of  serving  a  useful  purpose  in  the  succeed- 
ing season  if  shortened  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Light 
and  air  are  two  most  important  factors  in  the 
successful  culture  of  most  plants,  and  in  the  case 
of  Gooseberries  and  Red  and  White  Currants 
they  are  most  essential  factors.  D.  B.  C. 


LAUREL  HEDGES  IN  SMALL  GARDENS. 
It  is  astonishing  the  number  of  people  who 
plant  these  as  a  fanoe.  This  is  more  noticeable 
in  some  districts  than  in  others.  I  consider 
Laurels  among  the  worst  shrubs  for  the  purpose 
in  a  general  way.  During  my  long  experience  I 
have  only  seen  a  very  few  instances  where  they 
hav*  proved  satisfactory.  There  are  a  few  soils 
and  situations  where  I  would  not  hesitate  to 
plant  them,  but  they  are  quite  the  exoeption. 

Here  (Caraberley),  where  the  soil  is  very 
light,  sandy  and  poor,  they  have  been  planted  in 
the  majority  ef  places,  and  as  the  neighbourhood 
is  largely  composed  of  small  places,  the  Laurel  is 
to  be  seen  on  every  hand.  This  arises  from  the 
houKes  being  built  by  the  gpeoulative  builder, 
who,  when  enclosing  the  ground,  uses  theeheapest 


thing  to  make  a  fence,  and,  to  obtain  the  greatest 
height,  at  once  makes  a  bank  and  plants  the 
Laurels  on  this,  often  with  no  other  preparation 
beyond  raising  the  bank.  For  the  first  few 
years  all  goes  well,  the  bushes  making  vigorous 
growth.  When  they  have  attained  the  requisite 
height  and  size,  then  cutting  back  is  resorted  to. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  years  they  resent  this 
treatment,  which  is  shown  by  the  colour  of  the 
foliage.  This  is  followed  by  branches  dying, 
and  often  ends  by  the  shrub  dyinc  right  down 
to  the  ground.  In  the  road  where  I  reside  there 
are  half-a-dozen  in  this  condition  and  quite  past 
recovery.  I  have  observed,  however,  that  where 
they  are  planted  on  the  level  ground  which  has 
been  deeply  worked  they  last  many  years  longer. 

Recently  a  lady  showed  me  one  in  the  condition 
described  above,  seeking  help  to  make  it  recover. 
It  was  planted  on  one  of  these  poor  banks,  and 
acted  as  a  screen  from  the  road  to  the  garden 
and  windows.  In  front  of  this  was  a  border  for 
hardy  plants,  and  to  keep  back  the  roots  a  sharp 
spade  was  thrust  down  as  close  as  possible  to 
the  bank,  removing  every  root.  This  had  an 
effect  which  is  evident  to  all  cultivators.  So 
tidy  was  this  place  kept  that  all  dead  leaves  were 
removed,  and  this  had  helped  to  bring  them  into 
this  worn-out  state.  In  such  instances  the  best 
way  is  to  reduce  the  tops,  retaining  all  the  most 
healthy  branches,  fork  up  the  surface,  and  then 
put  on  a  good  dressing  of  manure.  This  will 
engender  a  top  root-action,  which  will  in  turn 
promote  young  growth.  To  keep  them  going  in 
such  soil  they  need  a  dressing  of  manure  each 
year  when  they  show  signs  of  exhaustion. 

Personally,  I  should  never  plant  Laurels,  as 
there  are  so  many  better  things.  Nothing  sur- 
passes Holly  in  this  soil.  Beech  makes  a  good 
fence,  and  several  other  things  equally  good  could 
be  named.  J.  Orook. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


the  best  policy  is  to  kill  the  pests  one  by 
one.  It  may  take  some  considerable  time  to 
do  this,  and  it  is  a  very  disagreeable  work, 
but  very  effectual.  On  no  account  must 
shoots  which  have  been  infested  be  put 
in  as  cuttings,  as  healthy  growth  would  not 
result. 

Roses.— Nearly  all  the  crown  buds  of  the  Teas, 
Hybrid  Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals  have 
now  fully  developed  ;  but  there  are  the  smaller 
buds  on  many  main  shoots  and  those  on  side 
branches  that  must  be  carefully  watched  and 
guarded  from  the  attack  of  the  caterpillar. 
Although  these  later  buds  may  not  possess  as 
many  petals  as  the  earlier  ones,  they  develop 
into  exceedingly  lovely  blooms  with  full,  cupped 
centres,  very  rich  in  colour. 

Lawns  and  Geass  Edgings. — The  lawns  are 
not  as  brown  as  they  were  at  this  time  last  year  ; 
but  where  the  soil  is  of  a  sandy  nature,  it  will  be 
advisable  to  water  in  order  to  prevent  the  roots 
of  the  grass  suffering  in  August  if  a  long  spell  of 
dry,  hot  weather  comes  then.  I  know  that  some 
persons  say  the  watering  of  lawns  is  useless  as 
regards  making  the  grass  grow  ;  but  if  thorough 
soakings  be  given  the  grass  will  benefit  consider- 
ably. I  need  only  point  out  the  effect  water  has 
on  the  grass  immediately  around  flower-beds, 
where  it  gets  the  benefit  of  odd  sprinklings  when 
the  occupants  of  the  beds  are  watered.  The 
grass  grows  more  strongly  there,  and  so  it 
is  advisable  to  pass  the  mowing-machine  twice 
over  that  part  to  once  over  the  remainder  of  the 
lawn  ;  and,  furthermore,  to  use  the  edging- 
shears  frequently,  as  a  ragged  edging  always 
has  a  bad  appearance,  and  a  neat  one  makes 
the  occupants  of  the  flower-beds  look  still  more 
charming. 

Layering  Carnations. — A  special  compost 
must  be  made  up  for  layering  the  side  growths 
in.  If  it  is  quite  impossible  to  obtain  the  best 
compost,  the  cultivator  can  probably  get  some 
coarse  sand  to  mix  with  the  ordinary  border  soil 
in  the  garden.  It  is  the  gritty  nature  of  the  soil, 
coupled  with  the  requisite  amount  of  moisture, 
that  induces  quick  root-action.  The  best  compost 
is  made  up  as  follows :  Fibrous  loam,  sifted,  two 
parts  ;  leaf-soil,  one  part ;  sand,  one  part.  The 
side  shoots,  those  that  have  not  borne  flowers, 
must  be  selected  for  layering.  Carefully  remove 
a  few  of  the  leaves  from  the  bottom  portion  of 
the  stem,  and  then,  in  a  slanting  direction, 
nearly  halfway,  cut  through  the  stem  at  that 
point  with  a  sharp  knife.  Place  the  prepared 
compost  under  the  layer  and  firmly  peg  down 
the  cut  portion  in  it.  All  that  is  necessary  to 
do  afterwards  is  to  keep  the  compost  in  a  moist 
state,  when  the  layers  will  emit  roots  and,  in 
due  time,  be  ready  for  severing  from  the  parent 
plant.  Avon. 


Insect  Pests. — Owing  to  the  cold  winds,  very 
low  temperature  generally  and  lack  of  sunshine 
experienced  at  the  end  of  June,  the  growth  of 
plants  and  the  production  of  flowers  have  been 
slow,  and  the  ripening  of  the  wood,  suitable  for 
making    cuttings,    will    be    delayed    in    conse- 
quence.    Insect  pests  have  flourished  amazingly, 
and  the  weather,  which  has  been  so  adverse  for 
plants  in  the  garden,  seems  to  have  been  ideal 
for  the  insects.     Sweet  Peas,  Roses,  and  many 
other  kinds  of  plants  have  been  continually  in- 
fested with  green  fly  ;  the  Cabbage  butterfly  has 
been  strongly  in  evidence,  and  so  I  am  afraid 
there  will  be  hosts  of  caterpillars  to  slay  in  the 
near  future.     Town  gardens  are  not  exempt  from 
these   butterflies  ;   they 
appear    to  be  as   plentiful 
there    as    in    the    country 
districts.     The  cuckoo-spit 
(Tettigonia  spumaria),  some- 
times   called     the     froth- 
hopper   on  account   of  the 
froth  -  like     substance     in 
which  the  insect  is  hidden, 
has   infested   nearly   every 
kind  of  plant.     I  never  saw 
so  much  about  before.     The 
stems  and  leaves  of  plants 
on  which  it  is  fixed  quickly 
become  deformed,    and  no 
wonder  either,  as  the  insects 
extract  the  sap  from  them 
wholesale.       It    is    useless 
syringing     the    insects    off 
with  clear  water,  as  if  the 
branches    appear    to  be 
thoroughly  cleansed  at 
night  by  this  means,   they 
are  covered  again  the  next 
morning  with  the  froth  and 
the  insects.   Quassia  extract 
may  be  used;  but  I  am  sure         4- — the  same  branch  after  the  shoots  have  been  pruned. 


366 


THE     GARDEN. 


[July  24,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flowbb    Garden. 

VASES. — Attend  to  the  staking  and 
tying  out  of  the  different  plants 
needing  it  before  they  get  damaged 
by  the  wind.  Remove  all  decaying 
leaves  and  blooms  to  give  a  neat 
appearance,  and  do  not  fail  to  supply 
ample  moisture  to  the  roots  should  the  weather 
prove  dry  and  hot. 

Pinka  and  Carnations. — Pipings  of  the  former 
and  layering  of  the  latter  must  not  be  overlooked 
if  well-rooted  and  strong  plants  are  expected  by 
the  end  of  the  season.  All  plants  requiring 
supports  must  be  attended  to  early,  otherwise 
much  damage  may  be  done  by  heavy  rain  and 
wind. 

Anemones. — -These  may  be  raised  from  seed  at 
this  season  of  the  year,  and  with  care  will  make 
very  serviceable  flowering  plants  for  next  year. 
Obtain  the  seed  from  a  reliable  source,  and  sow 
either  in  the  open  or  in  shallow  boxes  well 
drained  and  filled  with  a  suitable  compost.  Beds 
of  separate  colours  have  a  pleasing  effect.  The 
soil  must  be  rich  and  well  drained. 

Brampton  Stocks. — In  raising  a  batch  of  plants 
sow  the  seed  in  pans  at  once,  using  a  sweet, 
sandy  soil.  See  that  the  colours  are  kept 
separate,  and  thus  avoid  a  deal  of  trouble  and 
disappointment  at  the  flowering  period. 
Hardy  Fruits. 

Summer  Pruning  will  now  need  attention, 
but  do  not  shorten  the  shoots  too  severely  at  this 
season.  Plums  we  train  fan  shape,  and  at 
intervals  all  over  the  trees  a  few  new  growths 
are  retained,  and  these  usually  produce  the  best 
and  most  fruits.  Train  the  leaders  of  all  young 
trees  straight  from  the  base  and  aim  to  maintain 
an  even,  well-balanced  head.  If  the  fruits  have 
set  too  thickly,  remove  a  portion  early  and 
others  when  large  enough  for  tarts.  Thin 
the  clusters  of  Pears  if  fine  fruits  are  wanted, 
also  Apples. 

Orajted  Trees. — Attend  to  the  young  grafts 
which  were  inserted  in  April  and  make  them 
secure  against  wind,  otherwise  they  may  get 
blown  out.  In  the  case  of  wall  trees,  where  the 
grafts  may  have  failed,  train  in  a  young  shoot 
and  insert  a  bud.  All  Pear  trees  growing  on 
shallow  soils,  and  especially  if  worked  on  the 
dwarfing  stock,  will  require  feeding  well.  Heavy 
mulching  with  well-decayed  manure,  and  this 
followed  with  a  copious  supply  of  water,  will 
afford  great  assistance  to  the  present  crop  and 
growth  for  next  season. 

Vegetables. 

Cabbages  for  Spring. — About  the  25th  of  the 
present  month  will  be  found  a  very  suitable  time 
to  make  a  sowing  of  Cabbage  seed  for  the  supply 
next  spring,  and  another  sowing  should  be  made 
a  fortnight  later.  Sow  the  seed  on  a  rather  firm 
soil  which  has  been  made  moderately  smooth. 
There  are  numerous  varieties  in  commerce 
which  may  have  good  qualities  to  recommend 
them  ;  but  I  have  no  fault  to  find  with  a  good 
stock  of  Ellam'e  Dwarf  Early,  Early  Offenham, 
Cutbush's  Dwarf  and  Mein's  No.  1.  These  I 
have  grown  for  a  number  of  years,  and  with  which 
1  am  well  pleased.  Sow  good  breadths  of  Turnips, 
Endive  and  Lettuce  to  meet  the  demand.  Keep 
the  hoe  going  among  all  growing  crops  and  stake 
up  late  Peas.  There  is  still  time  to  plant  late 
Broccoli,  and  to  enable  them  to  withstand  the 
rigour  of  winter  plant  on  very  firm  land.  I  have 
seen  excellent  results  from  plants  put  out  on 
Strawberry  quarters  after  the  latter  have  been 
grubbed  np,  the  holes  being  made  with  the  aid  of 
a  crowbar.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

(TrotAom  Park  Cfanltna,  Bamel, 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower  Garden. 
Beddinc;  Plakts. — Give  timely  support  to  all 
plants  likely  to  be  io.iured  by  wind,  and  all 
trailing  subjects  are  best  looked  over  every  week 
and  the  growing  shoots  arranged  according  to 
the  space  necessary  for  them  to  fill,  using  wooden 
pegs  to  keep  these  in  place.  If  some  are  inclined 
to  grow  more  strongly  than  others,  sufficient  thin- 
ning to  induce  uniformity  in  the  lines  or  masses 
will  prove  beneficial,  and  give  a  finer  effect  than 
otherwise. 

Wimloio-boxes,  owing  to  the  position  they 
usually  occupy,  require  close  attention  being  paid 
to  watering.  The  plants  will  now  have  obtained 
a  good  hold  of  the  soil,  and  if  growth  is  not 
luxuriant  liquid  manure  may  profitably  be  given 
once  a  week.  Very  similar  treatment  applies 
to  vases  which,  if  occupying  a  breezy  position,  may 
require  any  plants  of  pendulous  habit  being  lightly 
secured  by  wire  or  twine. 

Greenhouse. 

Winter- flowering  Plants. — Primula  and  Cine- 
raria seed  for  producing  plantsfor  spring-flowering 
may  still  be  sown,  while  the  forwardest  batches 
should  be  potted  on  as  required,  using  a  light 
open  compost  of  loam,  leaf-mould  and  sand,  after- 
wards placing  the  plants  under  cover  of  a  frame 
and  keep  close  with  slight  shade  for  a  few  days. 
Primula  obconica  is  often  a  considerable  time  in 
germinating.  Should  mossy  growth  form  upon  the 
surface,  a  sprinkle  of  silver  sand  will  arrest  this 
and  render  the  tiny  seedlings  more  easily  visible. 

Begonias  of  the  Lorraine  type  will  now  be 
growing  freely.  Remove  any  blooms  that  appear, 
and  apply  water  to  the  roots  more  freely.  A 
position  near  the  glass  in  a  house  or  pit,  where 
shade  can  be  given  as  needed,  is  most  suitable. 

Hardy    Fruits. 

Summer  Prunino. — This  may  now  be  under- 
taken, trees  against  walls  having  first  attention. 
Cordon  and  all  young  trees  in  other  forms 
of  training  have  probably  already  been  done, 
with  the  result  that  many  entirely  superfluous 
shoots  have  since  started,  which,  in  turn,  should 
be  reduced  in  length  or  many  of  the  weaker 
removed  altogether.  Established  trees  may  have 
all  foreright  shoots  reduced  in  length  to  four 
leaves,  and,  as  in  the  ease  of  younger  trees,  any 
others  that  are  clearly  seen  to  be  useless  may  be 
broken  clean  away,  thus  allowing  sun  and  air 
free  access  to  those  that  remain  and  the  fruit. 
Topmost  growths  necessary  for  the  extension  of 
the  branches  may  then  be  closely  laid  in,  and  if 
insects  of  any  kind  are  in  evidence  a  thorough 
washing  with  strong  soap  and  water,  or  any 
approved  insecticide,  should  be  given,  applying 
this  to  the  under-sides  of  the  leaves. 

Apples  and  Pears,  in  bush  or  pyramid  form, 
require  most  of  the  side  shoots,  and  all  others 
that  show  a  tendency  of  growth  towards  the 
centre,  to  be  reduced  to  near  their  bases,  and  to 
have  the  leaders  treated  in  a  very  similar  manner 
according  to  size  and  form  best  applicable  to  the 
case.  Pyramid  trees  of  all  species  are  inclined 
to  grow  too  freely  about  the  upper  parts,  to  the 
detriment  of  those  below,  hence  severe  repression 
of  topmost  growths  is  necessary.  In  all  cases 
the  higher  parts  of  the  trees  should  first  be 
operated  upon,  leaving  those  below  for  a  week 
or  ten  days  later,  thus  tending  towards  the 
equalisation  of  the  flow  of  sap  to  all  parts. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines  may  now  have  any 
surplus  shoots  removed ,  and  those  retained  secured 
close  to  the  wall  or  branches,  for  the  purpose  of 
their  better  maturation  and  to  expose  the  fruit 
more  fully  to  the  sun. 

Figs  may  be  very  similarly  treated  ;  but  as 
with  these  the  fruit  is  most  freely  produced  upon 
the  short  spur  growths,  a  good  number  of  the 
most  promising  should  be  left. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 

Qalloway  Hoiist,  Garliestoii,  Wigtoianshire, 


THE   EDITORS   TABLE. 

More  Flowers  from  Scotland. 
Dr.  MoWatt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B.,  sends 
us  still  another  lot  of  interesting  flowers  from 
bis  cottage  garden.  Among  others  we  noticed 
the  following :  Eurybia  stellulata.  Genista  tine- 
toria,  Anchusa  italica  Dropmore  variety, 
Oxalis  enneaphylld,  Aristolochia  Sipho,  Chrysan- 
themum arcticum,  Alsine  larioifolia,  Dianthus 
deltoides,  D.  alpestre,  D.  cruentus,  Brodiaea 
laxa,  Armeria  plantaginea  splendens,  Libertia 
formosa,  Leontopodium  carpaticum,  Linnea 
borealis,  Ids  dalmatica  splendens,  Codonopis 
ovata,  seven  varieties  of  Heaths  and  Gaura 
Lindheimeri. 

Flowers  from  Ireland. 
Sir  .John  Olphert  of  Ballyconnell  House, 
Falgaragh,  County  Donegal,  sends  us  some  very 
interesting  flowers  indeed,  which  we  are  pleased 
to  receive.  Sir  John  writes :  "I  send  a  few 
seedling  blooms  of  double  Delphinium  raised 
here,  and  the  old  double  blue  Siberian  Larkspur, 
which  is  very  rare  ;  pink  Buddleia  Colvillei  with 
large  blooms,  Baptisia  australis  and  Dictamnus 
Fraxinella.  The  rains  have  spoiled  a  lot  of 
things  I  should  like  to  send  specimens  of." 

LoNd-SPURRBD   AqUILEOIAS    FROM 
ROXEURCHSHIRE. 

Mrs.  Soott  Elliot  of  Teviot  Lodge,  Hawick, 
Roxburghshire,  sends  us  some  very  beautiful 
examples  of  the  long-spurred  AquilegiiS  or 
Columbines.  These  are  all  of  exceedingly  good 
quality,  and  embrace  all  the  best  colours  that 
hive  yet  been  produced  in  these  charming 
flowers.  Mrs.  Scott  Elliot,  we  understand,  has 
devoted  considerable  time  to  the  raising  of  this 
splendid  strain,  and  certainly  her  labours  have 
been  rewarded  in  a  most  lavish  way.  The 
scientific  committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  has  also  granted  her  a  certificate  for  her 
work  among  these  flowers. 

P.4S0NIES    FROM    LANOPORT. 

Messrs.  Kelway  and  Son  of  Langport,  Somer- 
set, send  us  blooms  of  their  famous  and  be  lutiful 
Peonies.  The  fragrance  and  beauty  of  thfse 
flowers  is  still  not  known  nearly  so  much  as  it 
should  he,  and  as  the  plants  are  quite  hardy  they 
ought  to  find  a  place  in  every  garden.  A  few 
that  we  noticed  as  being  specially  good  are 
Kelway's  Queen,  a  full  double  creamy  white  : 
Sir  J.  T.  Lipton,  a  large  double  crimson  ;  Vis- 
cipunt  Cross,  a  rich  crimson  single  with  beautiful 
yellow  stamens ;  Hilda  Wild,  double,  silvery 
pink  ;  Ard  Patrick,  large  double  of  old  rose 
colour  ;  and  Helena,  a  pure  white  double. 


L  E  G  A  L     P  O  I  N  T . 

Master  and  sepvant:  Notice 

( W.  O. ).  —  There  doss  not  seem  any  direct 
authority  on  the  point,  but  it  is  generally  con- 
sidered that  a  notice  of  dismissal  could  be  given 
on  Sunday,  At  common  law  a  sale  of  goods  on 
Sunday  is  valid,  but  this  is  now  modified  by  the 
Lord's  Day  Act ;  a  notice  to  quit  premises  can  be 
served  on  Sunday.  The  observance  of  Sunday  as 
a  dies  non  seems  chiefly  to  depend  on  Statute,  and 
is  subject  to  exceptions  and  exceptions  to  such 
exceptions.  A  distress  for  rent  cannot  be  levied 
nor  a  writ  served  in  a  civil  action  on  that  day, 
but  a  warrant  for  an  indictable  crime  can  issue 
and  be  served,  although  as  regards  offences  which 
can  be  disposed  of  summarily  before  magistrates 
it  is  otherwise.  If  the  last  day  for  doing  an  act 
in  civil  process  falls  on  Sunday,  it  can  be  done  the 
next  day  ;  and  if  the  time  limited  for  doing  an 
act  is  less  than  six  days,  Sunday  does  not  count 
if  it  falls  in  the  interval.  We  should  not  like  to 
say,  therefore,  that  a  notice  given  to  a  gardener 
ou  Sunday  is   invalid,  altbougk  inconveniences 


July  24,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


367 


must  arise  aa  to  the  precise  time  the  services 
terminate.  When  a  servant  is  entitled  to  enjoy 
a  lodge  or  cottage,  rent  free,  under  the  terms  of 
his  employment,  he  is  not  a  tenant  in  the  strict 
Fense  of  the  term,  and  his  right  to  enjoy 
the  premises  expires  with  his  office  as  servant. — 
Baueister, 


TO 


ANSWERS 
OORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  a.nd  Answeps.— The  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  ivho  desire 
assistatice,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  Tncbke  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  cmicisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  The 
Garden,  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
'the  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Plants  fOT  rockery  {Q.  H.  Rippin).— 

The  following  should  be  of  service  to  you  : 
Androsaoe  lanuginosa,  C  impanula  G.  F.  Wilson, 
C.  garganica,  Vittadenia  triloba,  Sedum  pul- 
chellum,  S.  spurium  coccineum,  Silene  maritima 
fl.-pl. ,  Zauschneria  californica,  Corydalis  lutea, 
Polygonum  Brunonis  and  several  species  of 
Dianthus;  of  carpeting  subjects,  Pratia  angulata, 
Mazus  Pumilio,  Sibthorpia  europrea.  Campanula 
PuUa,  with  Anemone  robinsoniana  for  spring. 
Two  good  Heaths  for  your  purpose  would  be 
Erica  carnea  and  E.  einerea  alba.  If  you  have 
room  enough,  these  would  be  better  if  freely 
grouped  alone,  as  not  for  long  will  any  of  the 
small-growing  carpeting  plants  succeed  in  their 
company. 

AsteP  plants  dyln^  (Mr.f.  C.  Burten-^hau'). — The 
Aster  i3  attacked  by  a  fungus,  the  life-history  of  which 
has  not  been  fully  worked  out,  but  which  attacks  the 
plant  from  the  soil,  entering  it  at  or  near  the  ground  level 
and  growing  into  the  tube  up  which  the  water  flows  to 
the  leaves.  The  water  supply  is  thus  cut  off,  and  the 
plant  dies.  There  is  no  cure  when  once  the  plant  is 
attacked ;  it  should  be  dug  up  and  burned.  Since  the 
disease  gains  entrance  from  the  soil,  Asters  should  not  he 
planted  in  soil  where  the  disease  has  occurred  for  at  least 
two  or  three  years. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
How  to  prune  Clematis  montana 

(Moraig). — Your  Clematis  has  had  too  much 
pruning,  and  it  will  never  flower  it  the  branches 
are  cut  back  as  you  say  in  .July  and  October. 
By  doing  this  tha  flowering  wood  is  out  away 
each  year.  It  is  a  mistake  to  over-prune  the 
plant,  but,  of  course,  a  certain  amount  must  be 
done  to  keep  it  within  bounds.  The  proper 
period  to  prune  is  directly  the  flowers  fade,  say, 
very  early  in  June  ;  then,  do  no  more  until  the 
following  June.  As  your  plant  has  been  heavily 
pruned  in  the  past,  do  not  prune  it  at  all  this 
year,  simply  leave  it  alone,  and  you  will 
probibly  find  that  it  wiU  blossom  well  next  May. 
Many  species  of  Clematis  require  entirely 
different  treatment  to  ordinary  garden  varieties, 
and  if  they  are  heavily  pruned  they  never 
blossom  satisfactorily. 

Name  and  treatment  of  a  shrub 

{Colonel  P.  D.  Jefireys).  —  The  shrub  you  send 
is  Kalmia  latiiolia,  the  Calico  Bush  of  North 
America.  It  is  a  peat-loving  shrub  and  grows 
satisfactorily  under  similar  conditions  to  Rhodo- 
dendrons. Although  it  attains  its  maximum 
dimensions  in  peaty  soil,  it  succeeds  well  in 
loam,  providing  there  is  little  or  no  lime  in  the 
soil.  It  is  perfectly  hardy  and  may  be  obtained 
from  all  the  principal  nurserymen  in  the  country. 
It    rejoices     in    moist     but    well-drained    soil ; 


anything  approaching  sourness  is,  however, 
fatal.  Under  the  most  satisfactory  conditions 
it  attains  a  height  of  8  feet  or  10  feet  with  a 
similar  width,  but  more  often  it  is  leas  than  a 
third  that  size.  Even  under  the  moat  satisfactory 
conditions,  however,  growth  is  slow. 

Plantlngr  a.  Privet  hedge  (Trefaldieyn).—Yo\i 
could  transplant  your  Privet  hedge  into  a  fresh  position, 
providing  you  do  the  work  early  in  October  or  late  in 
March.  Dig  a  trench  along  each  side  of  the  hedge  about 
1  foot  from  it ;  then  fork  the  soil  away  from  the  roots  and 
gradually  work  the  plants  out.  Be  careful  to  place  the 
plants  in  the  same  order  when  replanting,  keeping  the 
outsides  to  the  outside  places  again.  After  planting  out 
into  shape,  reduce  in  height  by  6  inches  or  9  inches  to 
counterbalance  the  effect  of  root  injury,  and  keep  well 
watered  if  the  weather  is  dry.  While  the  planting  is  in 
progress  be  careful  to  work  the  soil  well  in  among  the 
roots  and  ram  the  plants  firmly  in.  A  mulch  of  well- 
rotted  manure  may  be  applied  nest  spring  to  prevent 
rapid  evaporation  of  moisture  in  dry  weather  and  also  to 
act  as  a  stimulant. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Rose  Marie  van   Houtte  plants 

dyings  (W.  G.  T.).—The  plant  sent  had  evi- 
dently had  the  bark  eaten  away  quite  close  to 
the  stock  upon  which  it  was  budded.  This 
probably  happened  in  the  nursery  from  whence 
you  obtained  the  plants,  and  its  ill-effeeta  would 
not  be  apparent  until  the  spring,  when  the  sap 
began  to  rise.  When  planting  in  future  you 
should  take  the  precaution  to  dreaa  the  soil  with 
some  insect  destroyer  such  as  Kilogrub,  as 
possibly  there  may  be  some  peat  in  your  soil  that 
has  done  the  mischief. 

Roses  in  pots  to  flower  in  winter 
(Mrs.  F.  L.  H.). — To  flower  Rosea  aueceasfully 
under  glass  the  plants  must  be  well  established 
in  their  pots  at  least  six  months  prior  to  forcing 
them  ;  so  that  if  you  have  any  plants  in  pots  they 
should  be  repotted  at  once  if  required.  Should 
you  not  possess  any  plants,  you  could  either  pur- 
chase small  ones  now  and  repot  them  and  grow 
them  on  in  your  greenhouse  during  the  summer, 
or  purchase  established  plants  in  October.  A 
good  plan  to  adopt  in  order  to  obtain  Roses  before 
Christmaa  is  to  grow  some  plants  in  pots  in  the 
open  garden  during  summer,  and  as  quickly  as 
flower-buda  are  seen  pinch  them  off.  Keep  them 
thua  deprived  of  all  bloom  until  September.  The 
growths  after  this  time  are  allowed  to  develop 
their  buds.  If  the  plants  are  removed  to  a 
greenhouse  of  very  moderate  temperature,  the 
buds  will  unfold  during  the  months  of  November 
and  December.  If  you  desire  to  obtain  some 
plants  for  forcing  at  the  least  expense,  you  could 
pot  up  budded  or  own-root  plants  grown  out- 
doors. The  best  time  to  do  this  is  in  October. 
Keep  them  outdoors  until  early  spring,  when 
some  may  be  brought  into  the  greenhsuse  and 
others  grown  on  outside  for  another  year. 
The  Dorothy  Perkins  should  be  potted  up  in 
October,  presuming  they  are  now  in  the  open 
garden.  They  would  then,  if  brought  into  the 
greenhouse  in  February  and  very  sparingly 
pruned,  give  you  some  nice  trusses  of  bloom  in 
May.  They  should  not  receive  strong  heat ;  but 
they  would  appreciate  some  bottom-heat,  such  as 
is  obtained  from  a  bed  of  leaves.  Seven-inch  or 
8-inch  pots  would  probably  be  required  if  the 
plants  are  of  a  nice  size,  as  they  should  be  at 
their  age. 

Rose  tree  blighted  (Knock  Glass).— The  plant  is 
badly  infested  with  green  fly  or  aphis,  and  the  sticky 
gum-like  appearance  is  known  as  honey  dew,  and  is  caused 
by  the  aphis.  You  should  well  wash  the  foliage  in  a 
solution  of  soft  soapy  water.  Take  half  a  bar  of  Lifebuoy 
Soap  and  dissolve  it  in  three  gallons  of  water  ;  then  well 
wash  the  leaves  and  buds  by  immersing  them  or  by  the 
aid  of  a  long-haired  brush.  We  think  the  variety  is  Paul 
Ricaut,  one  of  the  old  Hybrid  Chinese  Roses. 

Insects  upon  a  bush  of  Rose  de  Meaux 
(Dou'ager  Lady  P.). — The  damage  is  evidently  caused  by 
a  little  insect  known  as  thrip.  On  some  of  the  foliage 
there  was  also  a  trace  of  red  spider.  We  advise  you  to 
give  the  plant  a  good  syringing  twice  a  week  with  Tobacco 
wash  made  as  follows :  Tobacco,  ^Ib. ;  soft  soap,  lib. ; 
soft  water,  twelve  gallons.  Steep  the  Tobacco  for  a  day 
or  two;  then  allow  it  to  simmer  over  a  flre  for  an  hour. 
Pour  off  the  liquid,  well  press  the  leaves  and  proceed  as 
before.  Add  the  two  extracts  to  the  dissolved  soft  soap 
and  then  apply  with  a  syringe,  especially  to  the  under 
surface  of  the  leaves.    A  few  growths  might  be  cut  away. 


as  this  Rose  usually  grows  into  a  very  dense  bush,  which 
makes  a  convenient  harbour  for  insect  pests. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Name  of  fpuit.— S.  £.— The  variety  is  Keepsake. 

Names  of  plants  —Drayton  — l,  Caroline  Testout ; 
2,  Killarney ;  3,  Mrs.  J.  Laing ;  4.  Captain  Christv :  5,  Prefet 
Limbourg  ;  G,  Prince  C.  da  Rohan  ;  7.  Sultan  o!  Zanzibar ; 
S,  Papa  Gontier  ;  9,  Dr.  Audry ;   ID,  Souvenir  de  la  Mal- 

maison. C-fro.s^— L'Ideale. fl^./iW^ouf.—l,  Margaret 

Dickson ;  2,  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire ;  3,  Captain  Christy     The 

other  plant  was  too  shrivelled  to  identify. D.  McO.— 

It  is  not  uncommon  for  coloured  varieties  like  this  to  be 
found  among  the  Lobelia,  as  it  is  a  most  variable  plant, 
and  there  are  many  forms  of  different  shades  of  colour. 
The  coleur  of  the  one  sent  is  too  dull  to  please  many 
people. H.  C.—l,  Erigeron  speciosus ;  2,  Chrysanthe- 
mum maximum. Z.    Y.   X. — 1,   Spiraea  canescens  ;    2, 

Rosa  polyantha  ;  3,  Rubus  laciniatus  ;  4,  Spartium  jun- 
ceum ;  5  and  G,  forms  of  Centranthus  ruber ;  7,  Campanula 
persicifolia  alba ;  S,  G-eranium  sanguineum  ;  9,  Veronica 
Teucrium  dubia  ;  10,  Campanula  glomerata  ;  11,  C.  persici- 
folia ;  12,  C.  latifolia  macrantha  :  13,  Galega  oflBciDalis : 

14,  Alyssum   maritimum. -.4.  Forlong. — Light   one,  L. 

croceum  ;  dark  one,  probably  L.  dauricum. G.  J.  Ips.~ 

1,  Panax  Victorife ;  2,  Fagus  sylvatica  heterophylla ;  3,  send 
in  flower;  4,  Kerria  japonica  ;  5,  Polygonum  cuspidatum. 

F.    W.    B. — Pandanus  species  ;    2,  Melissa  officinalis 

variegata ;  3,  Nepeta  Glechoma  variegata ;  4,  possibly 
Ficus  repens ;  5,  Swainsonia  galegifolia  albifiora  ;  6,  send 
in  flower ;  7,  Semele  androgyna  ;   S,  Calathia  sanderiana  ; 

9,  Dracasna    fragrans    Victorise  ;     10,     Maranta    bicolor 

massangeana. James    Prcscotf. — 1,    Populua    balsami- 

fera ;    2,   Achillea   Millefolium  rosea ;    3,   Buphthalmum 

salicifolium  ;   4,  Euphorbia  amygdaloides, W.  R.  P. — 

1,  Spiraia  arguta;  2,  Veronica  incana ;  3,  Campanula 
portenschlagiana  ;  4,  Convolvulus  althjeoides  ;  5,  Acaena 
Sanguisorb!B ;  6,  Raphiolepis  japonica;  7,  .Egle  aepiaria; 
S,  Lamium  maculatum  ;  9,  Arenaria  montana;  10,  send  in 
flower ;    11,  Saxifraga  Aizoon  variety ;    12,  S    Wallacei ; 

13,  S.  trifurcata. JR.  H.  Drarle.—Deutzia.  crenata  flore- 

pleno. J.  liogers. — Pisum  sativum  umhellatum  (Crown 

Pea). Coivden.~l,  Epilobium  montanum  ;  2,  Leontodon 

hirtua ;  3,  Hieracium  Pilosella ;  4,  Potentilla  reptans ; 
5,  Lapsana  communis  ;  6,  Valeriana  officinalis  ;  7,  G-alium 
MoUugo  ;    S,  Geranium  dissectum  ;    9,  Circaea  lutetiana  ; 

10,  Teucrium     Scorodonia.  —  A.-ih      Lea  res.  —  Leyces- 

teria   formosa. J.    A .    Porch    —  Phlomis    fruticosa  ; 

Dianthus     Napoleon    III. Miss    England.  —  Kalmia 

latifolia.- U.    Creese. — Small    flowers    of   Rose   Ulrich 

Brunner. John    F.    B.    iSharpe. — Muscari    comosum 

monatrosum. 


SOCIETIES. 

BATH  ROSE,  BEGONIA  AND  STRAWBERRY  SHOW. 
This  popular  West  of  England  show  was  held  in  the 
Sydney  Gardens,  Bath,  on  Wednesday  and  Thursday,  July  7 
and  S.  For  the  most  part  Roses  were  splendid  in  form, 
and  the  absence  of  scorching  sun  of  late  gave  them  better 
colour.  Begonias  made  a  good  show  and  Strawberries 
looked  well,  but  were  not  very  highly  coloured. 

Roses.— ^o\xx  competitors  staged  for  the  first  class,  i.e., 
seventy-two  distinct  varieties,  single  blooms.  The  premier 
award  went  to  Messrs.  Dickson  and  Son,  in  whose  exhibit 
was  Comte  Raimbaud,  the  Rose  selected  for  the  National 
Rose  Society's  silver  medal  offered  for  the  best  Hybrid 
Perpetual  in  the  nurserymen's  section.  Mr.  John  Mat- 
tock, Oxford,  and  Messrs.  Cooling  and  Sons,  Bath,  were 
second  and  third  respectively.  The  best  Tea  in  the 
nurserymen's  section  was  Golden  Gate,  shown  by  Mr. 
George  Prince  of  Longworth,  Messrs.  Dickson  and  Son 
also  carried  off  the  first  prize  in  the  class  for  thirty-six  ^ 
distinct  varieties,  three  blooms  of  each  ;  A.  H.  Gray,  the 
new  pale  primrose,  was  shown  at  its  best  in  this  class. 
With  Lady  Ellen  Vincent  the  same  competitors  won  first 
prize  in  the  class  for  any  new  Rose.  For  the  most  deco- 
rative arrangement  of  Roses,  Messrs.  A.  A.  Waters  and 
Sons,  Kensington  Nurseries,  Bath,  came  out  on  top  with 
a  fine  lot  of  flowers,  closely  followed  by  Messrs.  Cooling 
and  Sons,  Bath.  In  the  amateur  classes  Mr.  Conway  Jonea 
gained  seven  firsts,  including  the  silver  cup  offered  for 
twenty-four  single  blooms. 

Tuberous  fict/onms.— Messrs.  Blackmore  and  Langdon, 
Bath,  brought  a  grand  lot  of  Begonias,  which  won  them 
first  prize  in  the  class  for  a  collection  of  Begonias  arranged 
for  effect.  Their  best  specimens  were  Lord  Kitchener, 
Mrs.  W.  L.  Anslie,  Beatrice  Mabbett,  White  Swan  and  a 
large  number  of  beautiful  frilled  Begonias.  Mr.  J,  Waters 
carried  off  the  first  prizes  in  all  the  four  plant  classes.  The 
quality  and  clearness  of  colour  in  all  his  blooms  were 
excellent,  and  the  foliage  was  also  a  good  colour.  Flowers 
of  good  substance  were  shown  by  Mr.  A.  C.  Palmer,  who 
secured  firsts  in  the  two  claaaes  for  thirty-six  double 
blooms  and  twelve  double  blooms  of  Begonias. 

Table  Decorations. — As  is  usual  at  this  show,  the  table 
decorations  formed  a  most  attractive  feature,  and  the 
competition  was  keen.  For  the  most  tastefully  arranged 
floral  decoration  for  a  dinner-table  6  feet  by  4  feet,  Mrs. 
E.  Viner,  Frome,  was  placed  first.  Mrs.  J.  T.  Curtis, 
Chippenham,  was  second.  In  the  class  for  Sweet  Peas, 
Sir  W.  Howell-Davies,  Bristol,  was  first,  salmon  yellow 
and  lavender  being  the  colours  used.  Mr.  E.  Viner, 
Frome,  was  second  ;  in  his  table  he  employed  crimson  and 
salmon  varieties,  which  were  most  eft'ective  and  telling. 

Carnations.— Mv.  Charles  Wall,  Melrose  Nuraeriea,  Bath, 
secured  the  first  prize  for  twenty-four  Carnations  or 
Picotees.  The  blooms  were  very  clean  and  of  large  size. 
Messrs.  Blackmore  and  Laogdon,  Bath,  were  second,  their 


368 


THE    GARDEN. 


[July  24, 1909. 


exhibit  being  fine,  although  it  lacked  the  quality  of  the 
first-prize  lot.  In  the  class  for  a  collection  of  Carnations, 
highest  honours  went  to  Mesars.  Blackmore  and  Langdon, 
who  had  some  magnificent  blooms  in  their  very  large 
collection. 

Suwet  Peas.~FoT  twelve  bunches  of  Sweet  Peas,  Mr.  G. 
Humphries,  Kingston  Langley,  Chippenham,  secured  the 
first  prize.  His  exhibit  was  perfect,  Princess  Victoria, 
Mrs.  C.  Foster,  Tennant  Spencer  and  a  new  seedling  were 
his  best  bunches.  The  Earl  of  Devon  was  second,  and  his 
bunches  of  Helen  Lewis  and  Aurora  Spencer  were  very 
fine  Mr.  E.  Viner,  Frome,  secured  the  first  for  six 
hunches  (prizes  offered  by  Messrs.  Webb  and  Son, 
Wordsley),  Rosie  Adams  and  George  Herbert  being  his 
best. 

Plantft.—The  feature  of  the  show  was  the  class  for  a 
group  of  miscellaneous  plants  in  or  out  of  bloom,  arranged 
and  banked  for  effect  on  a  space  not  exceeding  200  feet. 
Major  H.  Doherty,  Bath,  secured  a  well-deserved  first  for 
a  magnificent  hank.     The  exhibit  included  among  other 

f)lant8  fine  specimens  of  Orchids.  The  second-prize  group 
acked  both  quantity  and  quality,  but  contained  some 
splendid  Crotons  and  Caladiums.  The  exhibit  was  put 
up  by  Mr.  W.  Wailes. 

Sttriirlierrks — Many  fine  Strawberries  were  shown.  In 
the  class  for  six  dishes,  thirty  berries  on  each,  Mr.  E.  J. 
Ricketts,  Batheaston,  gained  the  first  prize ;  his  best 
dishes  were  Royal  Sovereign  and  Sir  Joseph  Paxton  For 
the  heaviest  berries  Mr.  Thomas  Every  came  in  first  ;  his 
dish  was  that  of  Royal  Sovereign.  Mr.  E.  J.  Ricketts 
also  won  firsts  for  three  dishes,  distinct  varieties,  and 
one  dish,  any  variety. 

Vcgetahles.—FoT  a  collection  of  vegetables  not  exceeding 
ten  varieties,  Mr.  F.  Waite  was  first.  His  exhibit  was 
very  neatly  displayed.  Mr.  A.  G.  Andrews  was  placed 
first  for  a  brace  of  Cucumbers  ;  and  for  a  dish  of  twelve 
Tomatoes  Mr.  G.  Horsell  was  an  easy  first,  his  fruits  being 
large  and  of  clear  colour.  Sutton's  special  prizes  for  six 
distinct  kinds  of  vegetables  were  awarded  to  the  Right  Hon. 
W.  H.  Long,  M.P.,  and  the  Earl  of.Devon,whowere  first  and 
second  respectively,  their  products  being  extremely  good. 
Messrs.  Webb  and  Sous'  prizes  for  a  collection  of  vegetables, 
six  distinct  kinds,  went  to  Captain  Gilling,  first,  and 
Mr.  T.  Every,  second  ;  both  exhibits  were  good. 

TraOc  Exhibit>!.—'\^essrB.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  had 
a  large  and  most  attractive  exhibit  of  flowers,  vegetables 
and  fruit,  probably  the  best  trade  exhibit  ever  seen  at 
this  show.  Conspicuous  among  the  flowers  were  their 
Sweet  Pea  Sutton's  Queen,  which  was  very  fine  ;  new  pink 
Lupin,  Celosias  in  good  form,  as  were  also  Nemesia  com- 
pacta  in  a  large  range  of  colours.  There  were  also  over 
thirty  varieties  of  Melons,  prominent  being  Sutton's 
Triumph,  one  of  which  turned  the  scale  at  12!b.  Reading 
Giant  Asparagus ;  a  ttoe  sample  of  Early  Giant  Pea  ; 
Tomatoes—the  best  were  Golden  Perfection  out  of  nearly 
thirty  varieties  staged ;  Carrots,  Lettuce  and  other  vege- 
tables of  good  strains  were  also  included  in  their  exhibit, 
which  thoroughly  maintained  the  firm's  reputation  as 
providers  of  high-class  seeds  for  the  produce  of  good 
flowers,  vegetables,  &c.  Messrs.  A.  A.  Waters  and  Sons, 
Kensington  Nurseries,  B  th,  had  an  attractive  exhibit  of 
Delphinium  seedlings,  which  contained  their  new  novelty 
Rev.  E.  L^celles,  a  dark  blue  Delphinium  with  a  white 
centre.  Messrs.  Stokes  and  Sons,  Trowbridge,  staged  their 
new  Delphinum  Peace,  which  is  a  very  attractive  flower. 
Mr.  John  Milburn,  Victoria  Nurseries,  Bath,  had  an  excel- 
lent rock  garden  exhibit  on  1-t  feet  of  staging. 

WOLVERHAMPTON  FLOR\L  FETE. 
This  excellent  and  enterprising  society  celebrated  its 
twenty-first  anniversary  this  year,  and  had,  in  consequence, 
prepared  a  really  sumptuous  feast  for  the  occasion,  which 
took  place  on  July  13,  14  and  15.  To  mark  this  important 
period  of  its  history,  a  sifver  vase  value  £.'>0,  or  this 
amount  in  cash,  was  offered  for  the  "most  meritorious 
and  eflfective  display  in  the  show,"  the  coveted  honour 
being  secured  by  the  well-known  and  go-ahead  firm  of 
Bakers,  Wolverhampton,  for  a  very  remarkable  rock  and 
water  garden  exhibit,  of  which  particulars  are  given  else- 
where. Some  idea  of  the  work  and  the  arrangement  may 
be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  forty  tons  of  sandstone 
alone  were  employed,  the  arrangement  covering  100  feet 
by  20  feet.    It  was  really  an  admirable  piece  of  work. 

In  other  respects  the  show  was  as  good  as  it  was  exten- 
sive, the  excellent  prizes  bringing  forth  the  best 
competitors  in  the  country.  In  Class  1,  for  a  display  of 
flowering  and  foliage  plants,  arranged  for  effect,  ^ilOO  in 
prizes  were  offered,  the  first  prize  going  to  Messrs. 
James  Cypher  and  Sons  for  a  very  fine  arrangement. 
I' n fortunately,  on  the  opening  day  in  the  early  afternoon 
the  show  was  visited  by  a  tremendous  downpour  of  rain, 
which  sadly  marred  the  beauty  of  the  table  arrangements 
and  choice  cut  fiowers. 

The  arrangements  throughout  were  excellent,  and  our 
thanks  are  due  to  the  ofiicials  for  much  kindness  and 
many  courtesiea. 

Plants  and  Groups. 

For  a  display  of  foliage  and  flowering  plants,  arranged 
for  effect,  Messrs.  James  Cypher  and  Sons,  Cheltenham, 
were  first  with  a  magnificent  group.  The  general  scheme 
was  a  ground  of  Crotons  and  Cattleyas,  Miltonias  and 
Alocasias,  Begonias  and  Ferns.  Taller  Crotons,  Palms, 
Carnations,  Lilies,  Roses,  Odontoglossuras  and  other 
plants  played  their  part  in  a  most  delightful  whole.  Here 
and  there,  dotted  in  the  foreground  with  exquisite  taste, 
were  pots  of  Nertera  depressa  and  Caladium  Argyritea. 
and  with  arches  of  Roses  and  other  flowers  and  tall 
graceful  Palms  a  most  sumptuous  group  was  arranged. 
Second,  Mr.  W.  A.  Holmes,  Chesterfield,  who  had  finely- 
coloured  Crotons,  Roses,  Cattleyas,  Asparagus  and  the 
like,  with  Humea   elegans,  choice  Palms    and    a    great 


variety  of  flowering  and  foliage  plants  tastefully  set  out. 
Third,  Mr.  W.  Vause,  Leamington,  who  had  a  more 
closely  arranged  group,  which  was  composed  of  Crotons, 
Roses,  Lilies,  Acers  and  other  plants. 

For  a  group  of  five  foliage  plants  and  Ferns,  no  flowering 
plants  allowed,  Mr.  W.  A.  Holmes,  Chesterfield,  was  first. 
He  had  arranged  Crotons,  Alocasias,  Palms,  Phryniums 
and  Aralias  with  great  skill,  the  group  being  of  a  light 
and  yet  very  imposing  character.  Second,  Messrs.  J. 
Cypher  and  Sous,  Cheltenham,  whose  bright  and  telling 
group  lacked  the  Cypherian  lightness  and  elegance  to 
which  we  are  accustomed.  Third,  Sir  G.  H.  Kenrick, 
Edgbaston,  Birmingham  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  V.  MacDonald), 
who  had  a  most  excellent  group. 

For  twenty  plants  in  pots  :  First,  Messrs.  James  Cypher 
and  Sons,  Cheltenham,  who  had  excellent  examples  of 
Chironia  ixifera,  Clerodendron  fallax  and  C.  Balfouri, 
Ixoras,  Crotons  and  Statices.  Mr.  W.  Vause,  Leamington, 
was  second  with  a  nice  assortment  of  plants 

For  a  group  of  flowering  plants  of  one  kind  only,  Messrs, 
Blackmore  and  Langdon,  Bath,  were  first  with  a 
sumptuous  group  of  Begonias  in  white,  crimson,  picotee 
varieties  and  the  like.  The  plants  were  superbly  grown 
Second,  Hobbies,  Limited,  Dereham,  with  a  superb  lot  of 
rambler  and  other  Roses,  in  which  the  best  of  these  things 
were  staged  in  good  taste.  Third,  Messrs.  J.  Cypher  and 
Sons,  Cheltenham,  who  had  a  delightful  lot  of  half-speci- 
men hard -wooded  Heaths,  plants  all  too  rarely  seen 
to-day. 

For  groups  of  plants,  space  not  to  exceed  260  square  feet : 
First,  J.  A.  Kenrick,  Esq.,  Edgbaston  (gardener,  Mr.  A. 
Cryer),  who  arranged  Palms,  Bamboos,  Crotons,  Lilies, 
Humea  elegans.  Hydrangeas  and  other  plants  in  a  series 
of  circular  groups,  using  a  margin  of  Nertera  depressa  and 
other  small  plants  in  a  very  ingenious  manner.  Second, 
Mr.  W.  R.  Manning,  Dudley. 

Fruit  and  Vegetables. 

For  a  display  of  fruiting  trees  in  pots  on  a  space  20  feet 
by  9  feet :  First,  Messrs.  Thomas  Rivers  and  Sons,  Saw- 
bridgeworth— Apples,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  large  Orauges 
in  tubs,  Cherries,  Plums,  Figs,  Grapes,  Pears  and  three 
specimens  of  Oranges,  twenty  years  old,  in  tubs  were 
noteworthy.  Two  specimens  of  Apple  Lady  Sudeley  were 
very  fine.  Second,  The  King's  Acre  Nurseries,  Hereford, 
who  had  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Apricots,  Cherries,  Plums, 
Apples,  Pears,  Gooseberries,  Currants,  Grapes  and  Figs  ;  a 
most  effective  collection. 

For  a  collection  of  fruit,  eight  dishes,  to  include  two 
varieties  of  Grapes,  three  bunches  of  each  :  First,  Lord 
Savile,  K.C  V.O.,  OUerton  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  Doe),  who 
had  three  bunches  each  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and 
Madrcsfield  Court  Grapes,  together  with  Figs,  Nectarines, 
Peaches  and  an  excellent  Melon.  Second,  J.  Drake,  Esq., 
Market  Rasen  (gardener,  Mr.  Parker),  with  Figs,  Lady 
Sudeley  and  Ribston  Pippin  Apples,  Grapes  and  Melons. 

For  two  bunches  of  black  Grapes  :  First,  Lord  Savile, 
with  excellent  Black  Hamburgh ;  second,  J.  Drake,  Esq. 

Two  bunches  of  white  Grapes  :  First,  Lord  Savile  ;  second, 
J.  Drake,  Eeq. 

Four  bunches  of  Grapes,  two  black  and  two  white : 
First,  Lord  Savile,  OUerton,  who  had  Black  Hamburgh 
and  Buckland  Sweetwater  ;  second,  J.  Drake,  Esq. 
(gardener,  Mr.  W.  Parker). 

For  a  collection  of  six  varieties  of  fruits  (Pines  excluded), 
the  first  prize  went  to  Lord  Savile,  K.C.V.O.,  OUerton 
(gardener,  Mr.  J.  Doe),  who  had  superb  Figs,  Melons, 
Peaches  and  black  and  white  Grapes  ;  second.  Lord  Bagot, 
Rugeley,  with  a  similar,  if  smaller,  lot  of  well-grown 
produce  ;  third,  J.  Drake,  E'q-,  Market  Rasen, 

For  a  collection  of  ten  vegetables,  distinct,  the  premier 
prize  was  taken  by  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Portland,  K.G., 
Worksop  (gardener,  Mr.  .1.  Gibson),  with  excellent 
examples  of  Ideal  Potatoes,  Eclipse  Tomatoes,  Magnum 
Bonum  Cauliflowers,  Centenary  Peas  (grand)  and  Delicacy 
Cucumbers,  the  produce  being  grown  from  Messrs.  Sutton's 
seeds ;  second,  the  Marquess  of  Northampton,  K.G. 
(gardener,  Mr.  A.  Searle),  who  had  a  splendid  lot  grown 
from  Messrs.  Webb  and  Sons'  seeds. 

Sweet  Peas. 

Eighteen  varieties  of  Sweet  Peas  (open):  First,  Mr.  T. 
Jones,  Ruabon,  whose  excellent  lot  included  Audrey  Crier, 
Aurora  Spencer,  Etta  Dyke,  Princess  Victoria,  Mrs.  A. 
Ireland,  The  King  and  Clara  Curtis  ;  second.  Sir  R.  Baker, 
Bart,  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher);  third.  Hobbies, 
Limited,  Dereham. 

For  twelve  varieties  of  Sweet  Peas  (prizes  offered  by 
Mr.  Henry  Eckford,  Wem),  Sir  R.  Baker,  Bart.,  was  a  good 
first,  his  fine  lot  including  Sir  James  Guinness,  J.  Ingman, 
Mrs.  H.  Sykes,  Queen  Alexandra  and  Asta  Ohn  ;  second, 
Mr.  J.  Haycock,  Ruabon. 

For  twelve  varieties  of  Sweet  Peas  (prizes  offered  by 
Messrs.  Robert  Sydenham,  Limited,  Birmingham),  Sir  R. 
Baker,  Bart.,  Blandford  (gardener,  Mr.  A  E.  Usher),  was 
again  first.  Paradise  Carmine,  St  George,  Nora  Unwin  and 
Audrey  Crier  being  very  fine  ;  second,  Mrs.  Chappell, 
Warwick. 

For  six  distinct  varieties  of  Sweet  Peas  (prizes  offered  by 
Messrs.  Bakers,  Wolverhampton) ;  First,  Sir  R.  Baker, 
Bart.,  Blandford  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher),  whose  vases 
of  Audrey  Crier,  John  Ingman,  Helen  Lewis,  Elsie 
Herbert,  Etta  Dyke  and  Clara  Curtis  were  all  of  the  finest 
quality ;  second,  Mr.  T.  Jones,  Ruabon,  whose  Frank 
Dolby  (blue),  Mrs.  Routzahu  Spencer  (pink  and  cream)  and 
Countess  Spencer  were  very  fine. 

For  six  bunches  of  Sweet  Peas  (prizes  offered  by  Messrs. 
Webb,  Stourbridge),  Sir  R.  Baker,  Bart.,  was  again  in  the 
leading  place  with  a  capital  lot. 

For  six  varieties  (prizes  offered  by  Messrs.  Robert 
Sydenham,  Limited),  Mr.  J.  Haycock,  Ruabon,  was  first, 
Clara  Curtis,  Paradise  and  Etta  Dyke  being  excellent. 


Roses. 

For  seventy-two  varieties  of  Roses,  single  blooms, 
distinct,  Messrs.  HuRh  Dickson  and  Sons,  Belfast,  were 
first  with  an  admirable  lot  so  far  as  the  season  permitted. 
Some  of  the  more  conspicuous  varieties  were  Mrae.  Melanie 
Soupert,  Mildred  Grant,  Captain  Hayward,  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley,  Lady  Helen  Vincent,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  and 
Charles  Grahame;  second,  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co., 
Colchester  ;  third.  Messrs.  Harkness  and  Co.,  Hitchin. 

For  forty-eight  Roses,  distinct,  Messrs.  J.  Townsend  and 
Sons,  Worcester,  were  first,  with  Messrs.  Dickson  and 
Sons,  Belfast,  and  Messrs.  F.  Cant  and  Co.  in  the  succeeding 
places. 

Twelve  bunches  of  decorative  Roses,  to  be  shown  with 
foliage  and  buds  as  cut  from  the  plants  :  First,  Mr.  J. 
Mattock,  Oxford,  who  showed  Mme.  A.  Chatenay,  Mrs. 
Grant,  Lady  Battersea,  Betty,  Mme.  P.  Ducher,  KUlarney, 
Marie  van  Houtte  and  Liberty  very  finely.  Second, 
Messrs.  F.  Cant  and  Co.,  Colchester,  whose  Queen  Mab, 
Rosette  de  Legion  d'Honneur,  Lady  Waterlow  and  Helene 
were  excellent.     Third,  Mr.  W.  r.  Mattock,  Oxford. 

Twelve  Tea  Roses,  distinct :  First,  Mr  W.  T.  Mattock, 
Oxford,  who  had  Muriel  Grahame,  Medea,  Ernest  Metz  and 
Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting ;  second,  Messrs.  F.  Cant  and 
Co.,  Colchester,  whose  best  were  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley, 
Ethel  Brownlow,  Medea  and  White  Maman  Cochet; 
third,  Mr.  J.  Mattock,  Oxford. 

For  nine  distinct  Teas  and  Noisettes,  Mr.  W.  T.  Mattock, 
Oxford,  was  again  first  with  Maman  Cochet,  White 
Maraao  Cochet  and  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  all  fine. 

For  a  display  of  climbing  Roses  in  pots  :  First,  Hobbies, 
Limited,  Dereham,  with  Delight,  Hiawatha,  Lady  Gay, 
Minnehaha,  Tausendschdn  and  Paradise,  single.  A  very 
beautiful  lot. 

In  the  class  for  a  howl  of  Roses,  Mr,  W.  J.  Garner, 
Altrincham,  was  first  with  a  noble  vase  of  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay ;  second,  Mr.  E.  Hicks,  Twyford,  Berks,  with 
Captain  Hayward  and  Mme.  A.  Chatenay  in  mixture  ; 
third,  Messrs.  J.  Townsend  and  Sons,  Worcester. 

The  exhibit  of  a  rock  and  water  garden  from  Bakers, 
Wolverhampton,  was  a  great  success  and,  without  doubt, 
the  most  sumptuous  thing  of  its  kind  we  have  seen. 
Masses  of  rock  backed  by  Pines  and  Bamboos  and 
planted  with  Ferns  and  alpines  were  simply  treasure- 
houses  of  beauty.  Massive  rocks  naturally  disposed  and 
well  planted  were  very  charming.  The  water  garden 
portion  was  a  great  feature,  and  with  Irises,  Spirfeas, 
Trilliums,  Darlingtonias,  Sarracenias  and  Funkias  a  most 
entrancing  picture  was  formed,  which,  by  common 
consent,  was  the  finest  of  its  kind  ever  seen  in  Loudon  or 
the  provinces.    Silver  vase  and  special  gold  medal. 

The  rockery  exhibit  from  Messrs.  Backhouse  and  Son, 
York,  was  one  of  the  features  of  the  show,  a  superb 
arrangement  for  which  no  praise  is  too  great  and  for  which 
a  description  would  fail  utterly  to  give  any  idea  of  its  worth, 
A  perfectly  arranged  rock  garden  and  water  in  combina- 
tion was  planted  in  the  most  delightful  fashion  with  choice 
alpines  and  shrubs.  A  great  work  of  art  indeed.  Large 
gold  medal. 

Hardy  Flowers, 

For  a  collection  of  Delphiniums,  space  6  feet  by  .t  feet,  no 
duplicates  :  First,  Messrs,  Blackmore  and  Langdon,  Bath, 
who  had  a  superb  lot  of  full-length  spikes ;  second,  Messrs. 
G.  Gibson  and  Co.,  Bedale  :  third,  J.  A.  Kenrick,  Esq., 
Edgbaston. 

For  the  best  arrangement  of  hardy  flowers,  no  duplicate 
or  mixed  bunches  allowed  :  First,  Messrs.  G.  Gibson  and  Co., 
Bedale,  who  had  Gaillardia  Nancy  Gibson,  Papaver  Mrs. 
Perry,  Delphinium  Mrs.  Peter  Blair,  Verbascum  densi- 
floraandCampanulapersicifolia  grandifloraamong  the  best 
things  ;  second,  Messrs.  Harkness  and  Sons,  Bedale,  with 
Irises,  Delphiniums,  Lupines,  Heuoheras,  Gaillardias,  &c. ; 
third,  Messrs.  G.  Bunyard  and  Co.,  Maidstone,  with  Iris 
Kiempferi,  early  Gladioli,  Campanulas,  English  Irises, 
Eremuri  and  other  hardy  flowers  in  variety.  Messrs. 
Wallace  and  Co,  also  displayed  good  groups  in  Ibis  class, 
the  competition  being  very  keen. 

For  a  bridal  bouquet,  Messrs.  Perkins  and  Sons, 
Birmingham,  who  had  arranged  pink  Carnations  and 
Odontoglossums  in  a  very  light  and  elegant  manner,  were 
placed  first,  Mr.  W.  J.  Garner,  Altrincham,  also  with  an 
arrangement  of  Carnations  and  Odontoglossums,  taking 
the  second  place.  There  were  a  large  number  of  exhibitors 
in  this  class. 

Non-competitive  Exhibits. 

Messrs.  E.  and  H.  Suckling,  Wolverhampton,  staged 
floral  devices  and  flowers. 

Mr.  John  E.  Knight,  Tettenhall  Nurseries,  Wolver- 
hampton, had  an  Old  English  garden  arranged  with  effect 
in  the  open  and  displayed  near  a  background  of  shrubs, 
the  rockwork  and  waterfall  presenting  a  singularly 
picturesque  aspect. 

Messrs.  Hewitt  and  Sons,  Solihull,  displayed  an  admir- 
able lot  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants.     Silver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  Dickson,  Limited,  Chester,  had  a  fine  group  of 
hardy  flowers.    Silver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  Bakers  displayed  Roses  and  early  Gladioli  in 
great  numbers,  also  a  fine  bank  of  herbaceous  plants. 

Messrs.  Webb  and  Sons,  Stourbridge,  had  a  circular 
temple  arranged  with  the  choicest  vegetables  and  flowering 
plants,  Melons,  Gloxinias,  Cucumbers,  Peas,  Tomatnes, 
Potatoes,  Sweet  Peas,  Celosias  and  a  great  host  of  other 
fruits  and  flowers  in  sumptuous  array  ;  a  picture  of  beauty 
^nd  utiUty,     Gold  medal. 

Messrs.  LUley,  Guernsey,  staged  an  admirable  lot  of 
early  Gladioli  in  many  distinct  and  beautiful  varieties. 
SUver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  Clibrani,  Altrincham,  showed  a  flne  group  of 
Aralia  sinensis  alba  marmorata  (syn.  Dimorphanthus), 
The  group  was  very  picturesque.    Silver  medal. 


JULY  24,  1909.J 


THE    GARDEN. 


Messrs.  Robert  Sydenham,  Limited,  EirmiDgham,  had  a 
delightful  lot  of  Sweet  Peas  charmingly  arranged  and  in 
many  choice  colours. 

Messrs.  Cutbush  and  Son,  Highgate,  set  up  a  nice  group 
of  Carnations,  white  Dorothy  Perkins  Rose,  and  many 
other  showy  and  good  plants.    Silver  medal. 

Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware,  Limited,  Feltham,  arranged  an  ex- 
cellent group  of  hardy  cut  flowers,  Phloxes,  Larkspurs 
and  Campanulas,  together  with  alpines.   Silver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  Jarman  and  Co.,  Chard,  had  their  new  Sweet 
Pea  Mrs.  Townsend,  also  Sweet  Sultans,  Roses,  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  and  the  like.    Silver  medal. 

Messrs.  T.  B.  Dobbs  and  Co.,  Seed  Stores,  Wolver- 
hampton, had  a  rustic  outdoor  arrangement  and  a  model 
garden.    Silver  medal. 

Mr.  John  G.  Knight,  Dudley  Street,  Wolverhampton, 
had  a  particularly  effective  garden  arrangement  with 
trees,  shrubs  and  rustic  arches.    Silver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  B.  Ladhams,  Shirley,  Southampton,  had  a  fine 
group  of  Pinks,  Gaillardias,  Scabiosa  caucasia  grandiflora 
and  Salvia  turkestanica,  a  very  showy  plant  with  pinkish 
bracts.  The  perpetual  Pink  Elsie  was  very  fine.  Silver 
medal. 

Mr.  C.  F.  Waters,  Balcombe,  Susses,  staged  a  very  fine 
lot  of  Perpetual  Carnations  in  all  the  leading  commercial 
kinds,  the  flowers  being  of  exceptional  size  and  quality. 
Silver-gilt  medal. 

Mr.  C.  H.  Herbert,  The  Nurspries,  Acock's  Green, 
Birmingham,  had  a  superb  lot  of  his  Perpetual  Pink  Pro- 
gress. 

Messrs.  Gunn  and  Sons,  Olton,  near  Birmingham,  dis- 
played a  capital  lot  of  herbaceous  Phloxes,  alpines  and 
Tufted  Pansies.    Silver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  Peed  and  Sons,  West  Norwood,  S.E.,  had  a  very 
fine  group  of  Caladiums  handsomely  coloured  and  arranged 
with  telling  effect.    Gold  medal. 

For  a  superb  gathering  of  Sweet  Peas  and  Violas,  admir- 
ably arranged,  Messrs.  Debbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay,  received 
a  gold  medal,  their  group  attracting  a  great  deal  of 
atteution. 

The  Hon.  Vicary  Gibba,  Aldenham  House,  Elstree  (gar- 
dener, Mr.  E.  Beckett),  displayed  a  collection  of  vegetables 
in  his  well-known  masterly  style,  the  exhibit  containing 
something  like  eighty  dishes,  and  for  which  a  special  gold 
medal  was  awarded. 

NATIONAL  ROSE   SOCIETY'S   PROVINCIAL  EXHIBI- 
TION. 

This  exhibition  was  held  in  the  beautiful  grounds  of 
Wordown  Park,  Luton,  in  connexion  with  the  Luton  and 
District  Sweet  Pea  and  Rose  Society,  on  Wednesday,  the 
Uthinst.,  when  there  was  a  remarkably  good  display  of 
Roses,  these  being  of  much  better  quality  than  those 
shown  at  the  society's  Metropolitan  exhibition.  Sweet 
Peas  were  of  moderate  quality  only,  and  competition  for 
these  was  by  no  means  keen,  this,  undoubtedly,  being  due 
to  the  cold,  wet  weather  experienced  previously.  We  wish 
to  tender  our  thanks  to  Mr.  E.  Mawley,  Mr.  R.  H.  Marks 
and  the  committees  for  the  assistance  they  so  kindly 
rendered. 

Nurserymen. 
General    Section. 

The  Jubilee  Trophy  and  gold  medal,  for  thirty-six  blooms, 
distinct  varieties,  brought  forth  nine  entries,  the  first 
prize  being  well  won  by  Mr.  Hugh  Dickson  of  Belfast. 
The  blooms  here  were  all  very  large,  of  good  form  and  very 
clean.  Captain  Hayward,  J.  B.  Clark,  Lyon  Rose,  Countess 
of  Annesley,  Mrs.  Stewart  Clark  and  William  Shean  were 
a  few  worthy  of  special  mention.  Messrs.  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons,  Newtownards,  Ireland,  were  placed  second. 
Lady  Buham  (a  huge  new  Rose  of  delicate  blush  and  cream 
hue),  Nita  Weldon,  Lady  Ashtown  and  Comte  Raimbaud 
being  four  of  the  best.  Third  prize  was  awarded  to 
Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  of  Colchester,  whose  flowers  were 
also  good.  Judging  in  this  class  was  very  difficult 
indeed. 

The  Crawley  Cup,  offered  for  seventy-two  blooms,  distinct, 
brought  forth  six  competitors,  first  honours  falling  to 
Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards,  Ireland,  for 
a  remarkably  good  lot  of  blooms.  A  few  of  the  best  were 
Hugh  Dickson,  Medea,  Mildred  Grant,  A.  K.  Williams, 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Bessie  Brown  and  Mrs.  Cornwallis-West. 
Second  prize  was  awarded  to  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons. 
Colchester,  whose  fiowers  also  were  good,  Hugh  Dickson, 
Com'tesse  de  Ludre,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  and  Mrs.  E.  Mawley 
being  a  few  that  we  selected  as  of  more  than  ordinary 
merit.  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick  Rose  Gar- 
dens, Colchester,  were  a  good  third.  Lady  Ashtown,  William 
Shean  and  Pride  of  Waltham  being  three  of  their  beat. 

In  Class  3,  for  twenty-four  distinct  varieties,  there 
blooms  of  each,  there  were  five  entries,  first  honours  falling 
to  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards,  for  a  very 
fine  lot  of  flowers,  K.  A.  Victoria,  Ulrich  Brunner,  Duchess 
de  Morny,  Killarney  and  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  being  very  good 
indeed.  Second  and  third  honours  went  respectively  to 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Colchester,  and  Messrs.  Frank 
Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick,  Colchester. 

For  thirty-six  blooms,  distinct,  there  were  six  competi- 
tors, the  premier  prize  being  appropriated  by  Messrs.  G. 
and  W.  H.  Burch,  Peterborough,  with  a  lovely  lot  of  blooms 
in  which  dark-coloured  Hybrid  Perpetuals  predominated. 
We  specially  noticed  C.  J.  Grahame,  Xavier  Olibo,  Victor 
Hugo,  Etienne  Levet,  Her  Majesty  and  Frau  Karl  Druschki 
as  being  of  more  than  ordinary  merit.  Second  honours 
went  to  Mr.  W.  Leggett,  Colchester,  Duke  of  Edinburgh 
and  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley  being  well  shown  in  this  collec- 
tion. Third  prize  was  awarded  to  Messrs.  J.  Burrell 
and  Co  ,  Cambridge. 

For  sixteen  distinct  varieties,  three  blooms  of  each,  com- 
petition was  good,  five  competitors  trying  conclusions. 
Mr.  G.  Piiiice,  Longworth,  was  a  good  first,  most  of  his 


fiowers  being  very  clean ;  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  and  Hugh 
Dickson  were  two  of  the  best.    Second  and  third  prizes 
went  respectively  to  Messrs.  G.  and  W.  H.  Burch,  Peter- 
borough, and  Messrs.  J.  Burrell  and  Co.,  Cambridge. 
Tea  o/yid  Noisette  Section. 

The  first  prize  for  eighteen  blooms,  distinct,  was  well 
won  by  Mr.  George  Prince,  Longworth,  Berks,  with  a  very 
clean  lot  of  blooms  ;  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux  and  Comtesse  de  Nadaillac  were  the  three 
best  blooms.  Second  honours  went  to  Mr.  Henry  Drew  of 
Longworth,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  also  being  shown  here 
in  splendid  form.  Third  prize  was  awarded  to  Messrs. 
B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Colchester. 

For  twelve  blooms,  distinct,  the  first  prize  went  to 
Messrs.  J.  Burrell  and  Co.,  Cambridge,  for  a  clean  dozen, 
Mme.  Constant  Soupert,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and  White 
Maman  Cochet  being  particularly  noteworthy.  Mr. 
John  Mattock,  Oxford,  was  second,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux 
being  good  here.  Mr.  W.  Leggett  of  Colchester  was 
placed  third. 

Open  to  Nurserymen  and  Amateurs. 
General  Section. 

For  twelve  blooms  of  any  white  or  yellow  Rose  com- 
petition was  very  good  indeed,  about  a  dozen  entries 
being  staged.  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  of  Colchester 
won  the  premier  prize  in  good  style  with  really  marvellous 
fiowers  of  Frau  Karl  Druschki.  Second  honours  fell  to  The 
King's  Acre  Nurseries,  Limited,  Hereford,  for  a  good  dozen 
of  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  and  third  prize  was  won  by 
Mr,  F.  M.  Bradley,  Peterborough,  with  Frau  Karl  Druschki. 
Au  extra  prize  was  awarded  Mr.  W.  Leggett,  Colchester, 
for  Bessie  Brown. 

In  a  similar  class  for  any  light  pink  or  rose-coloured  Rose, 
the  premier  award  went  to  The  King's  Acre  Nurseries, 
Limited,  Hereford,  for  a  very  beautiful  dozen  of  Mrs.  E. 
Mawley.  A  good  box  of  Lady  Ashtown  won  second  prize 
for  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  of  Colchester,  and  Messrs.  S. 
Bide  and  Sons,  Farnham,  Surrey,  were  third  with  their 
Queen  of  Spain. 

For  a  dozen  blooms  of  any  light  or  dark  crimson 
Rose  there  were  eight  entries,  first  honours  falling  to 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Caut  and  Sons,  Colchester,  for  a  wonderful 
set  of  A.  K.  Williams,  the  colour  and  shape  being  well- 
nigh  perfect.  Mr.  F.  M.  Bradley,  Peterborough,  was 
second. 

For  nine  blooms  of  Harry  Kirk  five  exhibits  were  staged, 
the  challenge  cup  going  to  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co., 
Braiswick,  Colchester,  for  very  clean  blooms.  Messrs. 
B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons  and  Messrs.  Harkness  and  Co., 
Hitchin,  followed  in  the  order  named. 

Tea  and  Noisette  Section. 

For  triplets  of  twelve  distinct  varieties  there  were  three 
entries,  first  prize  being  appropriated  by  Mr.  H.  Drew, 
LoDgworth,  Berks  ;  Maman  Cochet,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and 
White  Maman  Cochet  were  the  three  best.  Second  prize 
went  to  Mr.  G.  Prince,  Longworth,  his  Maman  Cochet  and 
Mrs.  E.  Mawley  being  very  good  indeed.  Third  prize  fell 
to  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick,  Colchester. 
Section  for  Decorative  Hoses. 

Four  groups  were  staged  in  the  class  for  eighteen  distinct 
varieties,  not  leas  than  three  or  more  than  seven  trusses  of 
each,  first  prize  being  awarded  to  Mr.  J.  Mattock,  Oxford, 
for  a  very  pretty  and  representative  display.  Billard  et 
Barre,  Gustave  Regis  and  Lady  Waterlow  were  well  shown 
here.  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick,  Colchester, 
were  a  good  second,  Crimson  Damask,  Lady  Battersea  and 
Ecarlate  being  very  attractive  here.  Third  prize  went  to 
Messrs.  G.  Paul  and  Son,  Cheshunt. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  varieties  there  were  four 
entries,  first  prize  againgoing  to  Mr.  J.  Mattock,  Gottfried 
Keller  and  Bardou  Job  being  very  beautiful  here.  Mr.  G. 
Prince  was  second  and  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.  third. 

Amateurs'   Classes. 

The  Jubilee  Trophy  and  gold  medal,  offered  for  twenty- 
four  blooms,  distinct,  brought  forth  fourteen  entries,  the 
trophy  being  carried  off  by  that  veteran  exhibitor,  Mr. 
E.  E.  Lindsell  of  Hitchin.  His  blooms  were  excellent 
throughout,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt, 
Her  Majesty,  Duchess  of  Bedford  and  Mildred  Grant 
calling  for  special  mention.  Mr.  Alfred  Tate,  Downside, 
Leatherhead,  was  a  close  second,  his  flowers  being  very 
large  and  clean.  Mrs.  J.  Bateman,  Yvonne  Vacherot,  Mrs. 
E.  Mawley  and  William  Shean  were  good.  Third  prize  was 
awarded  to  Franklin  Dennison,  Esq.,  Leamington. 

In  a  similar  class  for  thirty-six  blooms  there  were  no  less 
than  nine  competitors,  first  prize  being  well  won  by  the 
Rev.  T.  G.  Henslow,  Chippenham,  with  really  good 
fiowers.  We  specially  noticed  Caroline  Testout,  Victor 
Hugo,  Hugh  Dickson  and  Mildred  Grant.  Second  and  third 
prizes  were  won  by  Mr.  E.  B.  Lindsell  and  Mr.  A.  Tate  in 
the  order  named,  each  showing  blooms  of  admirable 
quality. 

Eight  exhibitors  entered  the  class  for  eight  triplets,  dis- 
tinct, Mr.  A.  Tate  winning  first  prize  in  good  style.  His 
best  fiowers  were  Dean  Hole  and  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt. 
Second  prize  went  to  Mrs.  G.  A.  Hammond,  Burgess  Hill, 
Sussex,  who  also  had  Mrs.  Roosevelt  in  good  condition. 
Third  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  Conway  Jones, 
Gloucester. 

For  nine  blooms  of  any  Rose  except  Tea  or  Noisette, 

Mr.  Conway  Jones  was  first  with  Dean  Hole  ;  Mr.  R.  Foley 

Hobbs,  Worcester,  was   second  with  Her  Majesty ;  and 

Mr.  E.  B.  Lindsell  third  with  Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

Open  to  Growers  of  Less  than  '2,000  Plants. 

Mr.  W.  Times  of  Hitchin  was  the  champion  in  the  class 
for  eighteen  blooms,  distinct,  his  fiowers  being  very  clean 
and  good.  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy,  shown  here,  received 
the  silver  medal  as  being  the  best  Hybrid  Tea  shown  by  an 
amateur.  Mr.  W.  R.  Hammond  was  second  and  Mr.  G. 
Speight,  Market  Harborough,  third. 


For  six  triplets,  distinct,  there  were  only  two  entries, 
Mr.  G.  Speight  being  placed  first,  and  the  Rev.  F.  Page- 
Roberts,  Strath fieldsaye  Rectory,  Berks,  second. 

Open  to  Growers  of  Less  than  1,000  Plants. 

In  the  class  for  twelve  blooms,  distinct,  Mr.  E.  B.  Leh- 
mann,  Crawley,  Sussex,  was  first  with  excellent  flowers, 
Mme.  Julea  Gravereaux  and  William  Shean  being  the  two 
best.  Second  and  third  prizes  went  respectively  to  Mr. 
C.  F.  H.  Leslie,  Hertingfordbury,  Hertford,  and  Mr.  W. 
Whittle,  Leicester. 

In  a  similar  class  for  nine  blooms,  Mr.  Courtenay  Page, 
Enfield ;  Miss  B.  H.  Langton,  Hendon  ;  and  Mr.  Herbert 
Whitman,  East  Finchley,  were  the  prize-winners  in  the 
order  named. 

New  Roses. 

The  following  new  Roses  each  received  a  gold  medal : 
Ethel  Malcolm,  a  Hybrid  Tea  of  great  beauty,  and  un- 
doubtedly the  best  novelty  in  the  show.  The  flowers  are 
large  and  of  great  depth,  the  colour  being  creamy  white 
with  peach  shading  in  the  centre.  A  fijst-class  exbibition 
Rose  and  worthy  of  two  gold  medals.  Mrs.  Maynard 
Sinton,  a  Hybrid  Tea  possessing  a  very  pronounced  and 
delightful  fragrance,  the  colour  being  white  tinted  flesh. 
Both  were  shown  by  Messrs.  S.  McGredy  and  Sons, 
Portadown,  Ireland.  Leslie  Holland,  a  beautiful  and  rich 
crimson  and  scarlet  Hybrid  Tea  of  good  form  and  substance 
and  very  sweet.  Shown  by  Mr.  Hugh  Dickson,  Belfast. 
Mrs.  Hubert  Taylor,  a  pure  Tea  with  very  pointed  flowers, 
the  colour  being  creamy  white  flushed  pink.  Duchess  of 
Wellington,  a  beautiful  orange  yellow  garden  Rose, 
received  a  card  of  commendation.  The  two  last  were 
shown  by  Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards. 

Best  Blooms  in  the  Show. 

Nurse'rymen. — Hybrid  Tea— Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt, 
shown  by  Messrs.  Hugh  Dickson,  Belfast.  Hybrid  Per- 
petual—Ben Cant,  shown  by  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons, 
Colchester.  Tea— Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  shown  by  Mr. 
George  Prince,  Longworth,  Berks. 

AniateA(rs.—Te&  or  Noisette — Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy, 
shown  by  Mr.  W.  Times,  Hitchin.  Hybrid  Perpetual— 
Her  Majesty,  shown  by  R.  Foley  Hobbs,  Esq.,  Worcester. 
Hybrid  Tea— Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  shown  by  Mr.  W.  H. 
Calvert,  Helen's  Bay,  County  Down. 

Sweet  Peas. 
Open  to  Gentlemen's  Gardeners  and  Amateurs. 

There  was  only  one  entry  in  the  class  for  twenty-four 
bunches,  distinct,  this  being  shown  by  R.  C.  Peake,  Esq., 
Redbouru  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  Parstead),  but  this  was 
awarded  first  prize.    These  were  of  moderate  quality  only. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  bunches  there  were  four 
entries,  flrst  prize  going  to  Mr.  A.  W.  Ralph,  Bedford,  for 
a  good  lot  of  flowers.  Elsie  Herbert,  Countess  Spencer, 
Frank  Dolby,  Evelyn  Hemus  and  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes 
were  the  best  sorts  shown.  Second  honours  went  to  Mr. 
1.  B.  Ellis,  Sharp  Crook,  who  also  had  flowers  of  good 
quality.  Third  prize  was  well  won  by  Mr.  A.  G.  Cresswell, 
gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Lytton,  whose  flowers  were  very 
good  indeed,  Sutton's  Queen  and  Countess  Spencer  being 
very  highly  coloured. 

Local  Classes. 

There  were  three  entries  in  the  class  for  twelve  bunches, 
distinct,  first  prize  being  won  by  A.  CoUings  Wells,  Esq. 
(gardener,  Mr.  E.  Gibbons).  The  fiowers  here  were  of  good 
quality  and  possessed  long,  stout  stems.  Evelyn  Hemus, 
Prince  Olaf,  The  King  and  Clara  Curtis  were  the  four  best. 
Second  prize  went  to  Mr.  R  C.  Peake,  Redbourn,  whose 
flowers  were  much  smaller,  Helen  Lewis  being  the  best. 
Mr.  H.  L.  Sell,  Luton,  was  placed  third. 

The  silver  challenge  cup  offered  for  the  best  exhibit  of 
six  bunches  was  won  by  A.  CoUings  Wells,  Esq.,  with 
some  very  fine  flowers,  the  varieties  shown  being  Mrs.  H. 
Bell,  Helen  Lewis,  Countess  Spencer,  Nora  Unwin,  John 
Ingman  and  Elsie  Herbert.  This  exhibitor  also  won  the 
Hucklesby  Challenge  Cup  for  the  best  bunch  in  the  show 
with  the  bunch  of  Countess  Spencer  shown  in  the  above 
group. 

The  challenge  cup  offered  for  the  best  six  bunches  shown 
by  a  cottager  was  won  by  Mr.  H.  Clarke,  Seagrave,  with 
blooms  of  moderate  quality  only. 


SALTAIRE    HORTICULTURAL    SOCIETY. 

This  Yorkshire  exhibition  has  grown  very  rapidly  indeed 
into  an  annual  event  of  considerable  importance,  and  now 
ranks  among  the  leading  gatherings  in  the  North.  Its 
shows  are  principally  devoted  to  the  encouragement  of  Roses 
and  Sweet  Peas,  and  it  has  already  welcomed  both  the 
National  Rose  and  Sweet  Pea  Societies.  The  former  was  a 
conspicuous  success  as  well  for  extent  as  for  quality,  but  on 
July  13,  when  the  latter  society  was  the  visitor,  the 
weather  for  weeks  previously  had  been  so  peculiarly  un- 
propitious  that  the  exhibits  were  few  in  numbers,  and 
practically  all  the  blooms  shown  bore  marked  evidence 
of  the  ordeal  through  which  they  had  passed.  Many  of 
the  fiowers  were  of  excellent  quality,  size  and  substance, 
and  the  colours  were  rich,  and  it  was  these  which  redeemed 
the  exhibition  from  failure.  Two  of  the  leading  Surrey 
growers  were  in  splendid  form,  and  were  successful  as  a 
natural  consequence. 

Sweet  Peas. 
The  class  which  attracted  the  most  attention  was  that 
for  twelve  distinct  varieties,  the  premier  award  being  the 
Edwards  Silver  Challenge  Trophy  and  the  gold  medal  of  the 
National  Sweet  Pea  Society;  this  class  must  be  contested 
in  the  provinces.  Unfortunately,  there  were  only  two 
exhibitors,  but  both  staged  magnificent  flowers,  and  the 
fight  was  exceedingly  keen.  Mr.  T.  Stevenson,  gardener 
to  A.  E.  Mocatta,  Esq.,  Woburn  Place,  Addlestone,  Surrey 
(ia.t  year's  winner),  secured  the  leading  place ;  but  Mr.  W. 


VI. 


THE     GAEDEN. 


(July  24,  1909. 


Hopkins,  gardener  to  Francis  Wellesley,  Esq.,  Westfleld, 
Woking,  was  very  little  behind.  Mr.  Stevenson  staged 
Mrs.  Henry  Bell,  John  Ingman,  Kora  Unwin,  Prince  of 
Asturias,  Lavender  George  Herbert,  Evelyn  Henius,  Clara 
Curtis,  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykea,  The  Marquis,  Helen  Lewis, 
Audrey  Crier  and  Elsie  Herbert.  The  best  varieties  in  the 
second-prize  stand  were  Zephyr,  The  King,  Mrs.  Hardcastle 
Sykes,  Clara  Curtis  and  Evelyn  Hemus. 

Mr.  S.  F.  Brotherston,  gardener  to  F.  .'famuelson,  Esq., 
Breckenbrough  Hall,  Thirsk,  secured  the  James  Hill  Cup, 
which  was  offered  for  competition  among  Yorkshire 
growers  only  ;  twelve  distinct  varieties  were  required,  and 
those  which  won  were  Evelyn  Hemus,  John  Ingman, 
James  Grieve,  King  Edward,  Etta  Dyke,  Helen  Lewis,  The 
Marquis,  Audrey  Crier,  Prince  of  Asturias,  Aurora,  Mrs. 
Mander  and  Countess  Spencer.  This  was  a  line  set  of 
blooms.  Mr.  W.  Heslington,  Vare  Garth,  Littlethorpe, 
Ripon,  was  the  only  other  exhibitor,  and  received  the 
second  prize. 

The  Breadmore  Challenge  Class  was  also  for  twelve 
varieties,  and  it  was  essential  that  all  should  be  in  com- 
merce and  catalogued.  Here  again  there  were  only  two 
exhibitors,  of  whom  Mr.  F.  J.  Harrison,  Rose  Dene, 
Ulverston,  was  placed  first  and  Mr.  D.  M.  Pike,  Railway 
Hotel,  Newark,  second.  The  winner  had  fine  bunches  of 
Apple  Blossom  Spencer,  Mrs.  Henry  Bell,  Asta  Ohn, 
Clara  Curtis  and  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes.  Mr.  W.  Hopkins 
was  an  easy  first  in  still  another  class  for  twelve  distinct, 
Mr.  D.  M.  Pike  being  second.  Mr.  A.  A.  Elliott  was  the 
only  exhibitor  in  a  class  for  six  specified  varieties  and 
received  the  premier  award.  Mr.  F.  J.  Harrison  was 
first  in  a  class  for  six  varieties  chosen  from  a  list 
published  in  the  schedule  ;  he  staged  Anna  Lumley,  Mrs. 
A.  Malcolm,  Apple  Blossom  Spencer,  Constance  Oliver, 
Evelyn  Hemus  and  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes.  The  same 
grower  won  for  three  distinct  varieties  with  waved 
standards,  showing  Marjorie  Willis  and  Paradise  Ivory  in 
especially  good  form.  Mr.  A.  A.  Elliott  won  the  first 
prize  in  the  class  for  Sutton's  Queen.  The  trade  was 
excluded  from  the  preceding  classes. 

In  the  open  section  the  principal  class  was  for  eighteen 
varieties,  distinct,  selected  from  the  National  Sweet  Pea 
Society's  classification  lists.  Messrs.  H.  Jones  and  Sons, 
Limited,  Shoplatch,  Shrewsbury,  were  first,  and  had  good 
bunches  of  Mrs.  Collier,  Marbled  Blue,  Lord  Nelson,  Mrs. 
Hardcastle  Sykes  and  Constance  Oliver.  The  second 
place  was  assigned  to  Mr.  C.  W.  Breadmore,  High  Street, 
Winchester.  In  the  class  for  twelve  varieties,  distinct, 
waved  standards,  the  prize-winners  were  Messrs.  Jones 
and  Sons  ;  Bolton  Brothers,  Warton,  Carnforth  ;  and  C.  W. 
Breadmore,  in  the  order  in  which  their  names  are  here 
given.  The  leaders  had  splendid  bunches  of  St.  George, 
Elsie  Herhert,  Helen  Lewis,  George  Herbert,  The  King 
and  Evelyn  Hemus.  Messrs.  Bolton  Brothers  were  success- 
ful in  both  the  classes  restricted  to  American  varieties, 
showing  strongly  in  each  ease.  Even  in  the  single  bunch 
classes  the  competition  was  comparatively  poor,  but  the 
quality  of  the  bunches  ranged  high.  There  were  nineteen 
of  these  classes,  and  Mr.  Stevenson  secured  the  leading 
position  in  no  fewer  than  fifteen  of  them.  Of  the 
remainder,  Mr.  S.  F.  Brotherston  won  two,  and  Messrs. 
Jones  and  Sons  and  C.  W.  Breadmore  one  apiece.  In  the 
decorative  classes,  Mr.  T.  Stevenson  was  similarly  success- 
fill,  other  winners  being  Messrs.  F.  J.  Harrison,  G.  D. 
Barrett  (Yeadon),  A.  A.  Elliott,  C.  W.  Breadmore  and 
Jones  and  Sons.  The  competition  in  the  local  classes  was 
again  poor,  and  the  blooms  staged  were  not,  generally 
speaking,  of  particularly  good  quality. 

RttSES. 

The  principal  class  in  the  Rose  section  was  for  seventy- 
two  distinct  varieties.  The  premier  prize  was  a 
50-guinea  challenge  bowl  and  a  gold  medal  presented  by 
Ml-.  G.  C.  Waud,  a  past  president  of  the  Saltaire,  Shipley 
and  District  Rose  Society.  The  coveted  award  was  hand- 
somely won  by  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons,  Limited, 
Newtownards,  whose  best  blooms  included  Mrs.  R.  G. 
Sharman  Crawford,  Nita  Weldon,  Mrs.  Roosevelt,  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant,  Marie  van  Houtte,  Mrs.  Mawley,  Mildred 
Grant,  C.  J.  Grahame,  Lady  Ashtown  and  Frau  Karl 
Druschki.  The  King's  Acre  Nursery  Company,  Limited, 
was  second.  In  the  class  for  sixteen  trebles  precisely 
the  same  order  was  maintained  ;  Messrs.  Dickson  and  Sons 
had  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Countess  of  Annesley,  Lady 
Helen  Vincent,  Nita  Weldon,  and  Frau  Karl  Druschki  in 
capital  condition.  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons,  The  King's 
Acre  Nursery  Company,  and  Messrs.  G.  aad  W.  H.  Burch, 
Peterborough,  received  the  prizes  in  the  order  here  given 
for  thirty-six  varieties  distinct.  Messrs.  A.  Dicksan  and 
Sons,  Limited,  also  led  for  twenty-four  distinct,  twenty- 
four  Hybrid  Teas,  distinct,  and  for  twelve  Teas  or  Noisettes, 
distinct.  For  twelve  blooms  of  Bessie  Bro\vn,  Messrs.  A. 
Dickson  and  Sons  were  first  and  The  King's  Acre  Nursery 
Company,  Limited,  second,  the  same  positions  being 
maintained  for  twelve  blooms  of  William  Shean.  For  a 
similar  number  of  either  A.  K.  Williams  or  Hugh  Dickson, 
The  King's  Acre  Nursery  Company  went  to  the  front  with 
the  first-named  variety,  and  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and  Sons 
followed  with  the  second-named.  Mr.  Tom  Park  was 
conspicuously  successful  in  the  smaller  classes. 

NON-COMPETITn-E     EXHIBITS. 

Although  these  were  not  numerous  they  were  varied  in 
character,  of  splendid  quality  and  added  materially  to  the 
general  effect  of  the  show.  A  grand  group  of  foliage  and 
flowering  plants  was  arranged  by  G.  C.  Waud,  Esq., 
Baildon.  The  plants  were  admirably  grown  and  artisti- 
cally displayed.  Messrs.  Artindale  and  Sons,  Sheffield, 
staged  beautiful  Violas  and  hardy  herbaceous  plants  in 
variety.  Messrs.  Dicksons,  Limited,  Chester ;  W. 
Conway  and  Sons,  Halifax ;  Mawsou  Brothers,  Winder- 
mere ;  and  Backhouse  and  Sons,  York,  all  staged  herba- 
ceous   flowers ;    while    Mr.    F.  J.    Bell,    Whitley    Bay, 


contributed  Violas  and  Sweet  Peas.  Among  the  Sweet  Pea 
specialists  who  assisted  the  exhibition  In  this  section 
were  Mr.  Robert  Bolton,  Warton,  Carnforth :  Miss 
Hemus,  Upton-on-Severn  :  and  Messrs.  E.  W.  King  and 
Co.,  Coggeshall,  Essex.  Messrs.  Batchelor  and  Sons, 
Harrogate,  had  a  particularly  interesting  group  of  mag- 
nificently grown  Nephrolepis  in  variety. 

NORFOLK  AND  NORWICH  HORTIC0LTUEAX 
SOCIEIY. 
This  society  held  its  annual  summer  show  on  the  8th 
inst.  at  High  House  Gardens,  Thorpe-next-Norwich. 
Unfortunately  for  the  members  and  visitors,  rain  fell  all 
the  morning  and  was  responsible  for  a  great  falling-off  in 
the  attendance,  as  the  figures  herewith  will  explain — 
1908,  6,300  visitors,  gate-money  £1S0  ;  1909,  2,360  visitors, 
gate-money  £59.  The  exhibits  staged  in  many  cases,  too, 
were  below  the  average  standard,  and  this  also  was 
attributable  to  the  bad  weather  preceding  the  fixture. 
Roses  were  one  of  the  worst  offenders  in  this  matter,  the 
outer  petals  giving  evidence  of  the  excessive  dampness. 
The  class  for  forty-eight  blooms  and  most  of  the  other 
open  classes  were  confined  to  three  trade  growers,  viz., 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Son,  F.  Cant  and  Co.  and  J. 
Burrell  and  Co.  The  Rev.  J.  A.  L.  Fellowes,  Bunwell,  had 
the  honour  of  winning  two  challenge  cups,  one  for  thirty- 
six  blooms  and  the  other  for  twenty-four  blooms  confined 
to  amateur  growers  of  the  county.  His  blooms  were 
splendid  examples,  and  the  medal  Rose,  a  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley,  was  in  his  stand.  Miss  Penrice  Witton  made  a 
good  display  consisting  mostly  of  the  older  types,  which 
seemed  to  prove  that  they  can  withstand  the  elements 
better  than  the  newer  sorts.  The  smaller  classes  had 
their  adherents,  and  here  and  there  one  could  find  an 
exceptionally  superb  lot. 

What  Roses  lacked.  Sweet  Peas  made  good  ;  a  tent  was 
devoted  to  them  and  was  well  filled.  One  side  was  taken 
up  by  a  class  for  twenty-four  bunches,  distinct  varieties. 
In  this  class  Messrs.  Daniels  Brothers,  Limited,  Norwich, 
had  offered  a  superb  ten-guinea  silver  challenge  bowl  in 
addition  to  the  society's  prizes.  Mr.  T.  Notley,  gardener 
to  E.  Gurney  Buxton,  Esq.,  Thorpe,  was  the  fortunate 
winner  with  a  splendid  arrangement.  The  second-prize 
lot  from  Mr.  Lewis  Smith,  gardener  to  Robert  Fellowes, 
Esq.,  Shotesham  Park,  was  also  a  most  creditable  exhibit. 
Prince  of  Orange  being  especially  large.  In  this  section 
also  smaller  classes  were  arranged  for  those  who  possess 
only  small  gardens,  and  it  was  pleasing  to  see  the  friendly 
rivalry  in  this  section  of  the  show.  Sweet  Peas  have 
come  to  stay  in  popularity  for  some  time  yet ;  but  unless 
raisers  keep  varieties  distinct  they  will  do  themselves 
harm. 

Herbaceous  flowers  were  another  bold  section,  and  when 
we  say  bold,  we  mean  it  not  in  the  sense  that  the  flowers 
were  coarse,  for  although  Delphiniums,  Lupines  and  some 
Campanulas  set  up  bold,  the  charms  of  Primulas. 
Heucheras  and  h»sts  of  other  such  subjects  were  not  lost 
sight  of.  Mr.  George  Davison,  gardener  to  Colonel  Petre, 
Westwiek,  came  away  from  everyone  else  with  his  stand 
of  forty-eight  varieties.  Imagine  them,  forty-eight 
bunches,  three  deep,  23  feet  run  of  the  show-board,  and 
every  one  well  grown  and  staged  to  its  best.  Carnations 
were  a  good  feature.  Mr.  W.  Allan,  Gunton  Park  Gardens, 
excelled  here,  especially  so  with  Cecilia,  the  massive 
yellow. 

Fruit  was  rather  below  the  average.  The  Strawberries 
looked  overdone  with  wet.  Peaches  and  Nectarines  were 
only  feebly  represented,  while  Grapes  were  short  in 
entries.  Vegetables  and  salads  seemed  as  if  they  only  had 
appreciated  the  rain,  especially  Cabbages  and  Lettuces. 
Two  growers  had  made  groups.  Messrs.  Daniels  Brothers, 
Limited,  Norwich,  had  a  bank  of  all  the  new  Sweet  Peas, 
named,  useful  for  reference,  and  they  flanked  them  with 
pretty  flowering  and  foliage  plants.  Messrs.  G.  Stark 
and  Son,  Ryburgh,  also  had  a  group  of  Sweet  Peas, 
including  a  large  number  of  the  popular  scarlet  G. 
Stark. 

*„*  Qiviiig  to  the  demand  made  on  our  space  by  the 
reports  of  several  large  shoivs,  we  are  compelled  to  hold  over 
the  report  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  fortnightly 
meeting  until  next  iceek. 

"Country  LlfS"  for  July  24  contains, 
among  »ther  artioles :  "  Country  Home : 
Lyddington  Bede  House"  (illustrated);  "Tale 
of  Country  Life :  A  Modern  Fairy  Tale,"  by 
H.  de  Vere  Staopoole  ;  "  Church  Eells  "  (illus- 
trated), by  Albert  Hartshorne  ;  "  An  Adventure 
on  a  Hebridean  Moor "  (illustrated)  by  0.  G. 
Pike  ;  "  Wild  Country  Life "  ;  "In  the  Garden " 
(illustrated). 

Scottish  Hoptioultupal  Associa- 
tion.— The  usual  monthly  meeting  of  this 
association  was  held  in  the  hall,  5,  St.  Andrew 
Square,  Edinburgh,  on  the  evening  of  Tuesday, 
.July  6.  There  was  a  good  attendance,  and  much 
interest  was  manifested  in  the  paper  of  the  even- 
ing and  the  exhibits.  The  paper  was  on  "  Roses," 
and  was  by  Mr.  W.  H.  Massie,  of  the  firm  of 
Messrs.  Uicksons  and  Co.,  Edinburgh.  Mr. 
Massie  gave  much  interesting  information  on  the 
subject,  covering  many  points  relating  to  the 
Rose  and  its  cultivation.  In  addition  to  those 
relating  to  other  aspects  of  the  flower,  he  dwelt 


at  length  upon  the  necessity  of  careful  and 
thoughtful  cultivatien,  especially  as  regards 
planting,  pruning  and  other  treatment  of  the 
various  classes  of  Roses.  Mr.  Massie  also  laid 
stress  upon  the  importance  of  raising  new 
varieties,  and  upon  the  field  for  such  work  which 
was  open  to  gardeners  as  well  as  to  the  trade. 
The  paper  was  well  received,  and  Mr.  Massie 
was  heartily  thanked  for  his  valuable  contribu- 
tion to  the  association's  transactions. 

Hopticultupal    show     at    Papis- 

Plage. — A  few  miles  from  Boulogne-sur-Mer 
is  Le  Touquet  Paris-Plage,  where,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  local  authorities  and  the  National 
Horticultural  Society  of  France,  an  International 
fruit,  flower  and  vegetable  show  is  being 
organised  for  August  21  to  29  next.  There  is 
no  doubt  it  will  prove  an  attraction  for  the 
English  and  other  visitors  to  Boulogne.  The 
schedule  is  a  very  liberal  one,  and  it  is  hoped 
that  exhibits  may  be  sent  from  England,  a  space 
of  some  importance  being  set  apart  for  their 
reception.  Numerous  medals  and  other  prizes 
are  ofl'ered  in  the  241  classes  that  are  contained 
in  the  schedule.  Further  particulars  can  be 
obtained  of  M.  Le  Commissaire,  L'Exposition 
Internationale  d'horticulture  a  Paris-Plage  (Pas 
de  Calais),  France. 

The  Bpitish  Gapdeneps'  Associa- 
tion at  Newcastle-on-Tyne.  —  On 
Wednesday  next,  July  28,  a  meeting  of  gardeners 
will  be  held  in  connexion  with  the  great  summer 
show  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  Northumber- 
land, Durham,  Newcastle-on-Tyne,  by  kind 
permission  of  the  chairman  and  council.  The 
first  meeting  will  be  held  at  2.30  p.m.  in  the 
Recreation  Ground,  North  Road,  Newcastle-on- 
Tyne,  in  a  special  tent  provided  by  the  executive 
council  of  the  British  Gardeners'  Association, 
and  will  be  addressed  by  Mr.  J.  Weathers, 
general  secretary  of  the  association.  Another 
meeting  will  be  held  in  the  same  place  at 
7.30  p.m.  Members  of  the  British  Gardeners' 
Association  have  the  privilege  of  entering  the 
flower  show  on  the  first  day  at  half-price  (Is.) 
up  to  5  p.m.  on  showing  their  British  Gardeners' 
Association  cards  of  membership  at  the  gate. — 
J.  W. 

East    Anglian    Hopticultupal 

Club.— "The  Cultivation  of  the  Strawberry" 
was  the  subject  of  an  essay  competition  closed  to 
under-gardeners  at  the  July  meeting  of  this  club. 
Three  interesting  papers  were  read,  and  after 
adjudication  the  awards  were  made  as  follows  : 
First,  Ernest  Hales,  Keswick  Gardens  ;  second, 
E.  J.  Ottaway,  Thorpe ;  and  third,  R.  Bird, 
Tonbridge  The  exhibits  made  a  fine  displaj-, 
the  decorative  qualities  of  Sweet  Peas  and  of 
Roses  with  long  stems  being  gracefully  depicted. 
The  following  day  the  club  held  its  annual 
summer  excursion.  The  secretary  (Mr.  W.  L. 
Wallis)  had  made  splendid  detailed  arrange- 
ments for  a  country  drive  of  fifteen  miles  from 
Norwich  to  Earsham  Hall,  permission  to  visit 
the  gardens  there  having  been  kindly  granted  by 
Captain  Meade,  J. P.,  D.L.  Close  upon  100 
members  joined  the  party,  and  not  one  would 
have  liked  to  have  missed  the  treat  of  a  ramble 
through  the  old-time  gardens  and  the  more 
modernised  part.  The  lake,  with  its  sloping 
banks  of  choice  flowering  shrubs  and  plants,  the 
acre  of  rock  garden  full  of  choice  subjects, 
Bamboos  growing  luxuriantly,  and  the  several 
glass-houses  were  all  inspected,  and  interest  was 
added  by  the  genial  gardener,  Mr.  Andrews, 
kindly  accompanying  the  party.  Thanks  were 
accorded  to  Captain  Meade  for  permitting  the 
visit,  and  to  Mr.  Andrews. — P. 


OARDENINQ    AFPOINTHBNT. 

MR.  Andrew  Hutton,  for  the  past  thirteen  years  gar- 
dener to  the  late  George  Keith,  Esq.,  Usan  House, 
Montrose,  N.B.,  has  been  engaged  by  John  Steward,  Esq., 
Carlton,  Curlieu  Hall,  Leicester.  Mr.  Hutton  entered  on 
his  duties  on  July  16. 


».•  The  Yearly  Subscription  to  THE  GARDEN  is:  Inland, 
6s.  6d. ;  Foreign,  Ss.  9d. 


GARDEN. 


■^^^ 


—^S'- 


.^^^^ 


No.  1967. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


July  31,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


Holiday  Rambles  in 
THE  South-west 
Counties 

NOTRS  op  THE  WkEK 

The  Garden  Fiower 
Show       

CORBESFONDEHOB 

Suggestions  for  the 
National     Rose 

Society 

Fortune's  Yellow 
Rose  at  Castle 
Menzies,  Perth- 
shire  

The  Editor's  Table     . . 
Sweet    Pea    trials    at 

Reading      

Trees  and  Shrubs 
Diostea  juncea  . .     . . 
Diervilla  Eva  Rathke 
Rhododendron    Pink 

Pearl        

ROSE  Garden 
The    cross  -  fertilisa- 
tion of  Roses  . .     . . 
KiTOHEN  Garden 
A   valuable  summer 

Lettuce     

Peas  in  October  and 
November 


375 


wloweb  Garden 
Ramondia  pyrenaica 

alha 

The  hardy  Pfimulas 
The     Eastern     Bell- 
flower      

Sweet  Pea  chat 
Ononis  rotundifolius 
Coloured  Plate 
New  Sweet  Pea  Mrs. 
A.  Ireland      . .     ., 
Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 376 

Show,  fancy  and 
Regal  Pelargo- 
niums            376 

The  Town  Garden  ..  377 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For   the   South   and 

South  Midlands    . .  37S 
For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands  ..  378 

New  plants 378 

Answers     to     Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . .     . .    378 

Miscellaneous  . .     . .    379 

Societies      379 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Rosa  Fortune's  Yellow 371 

Rhododendron  Pink  Pearl  in  a  Boscjmbd  gat-dea  . .  372 
A  good  specimen  of  Lettuce  Carter's  Holborn  Standard  373 
ramondia  pyrenaica  at  Myddelton  House  Gardens  . .  374 
New  Sweet  Pea  Mrs.  A.  Ireland       . .     . .     Coloured  plate 

A  cluster  of  Ostrowskia  magnifica 375 

Show,  Fancy  and  Regal  Pelargoniuma 376,  377 


EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  qv^tioTis 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  colum/ns  a  oonspimutus 
feature,  and^  when  queries  a/re  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  convmunications  mv£t  be  vyritten  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompa/nied  by  na/me  and  ad/Jbress  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  AU 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  ^ 

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  moist  he  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  vnll  be 
treated  toith.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contritnUiojis  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  Garden 
wUl  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


HOLIDAY  RAMBLES  IN  THE 
SOUTH-WEST  COUNTIES. 

No  more  enjoyable  way  of  spending  a 
holiday  for  a  man  who  is  interested 
in  gardens  and  gardening  can  be 
devised  than  a  visit  to  a  few  of  the 
notable  gardens  in  the  south-west 
counties  of  England  and  Wales,  particularly  if 
his  duties  have  hitherto  kept  him  in  the  north 
and  east  of  the  country.  Dorsetshire,  Devon- 
shire, and  particularly  Cornwall  and  South  Wales 
are  especially  favourable  for  gardening  operations. 
From  a  landscape  point  of  view,  they  have  ideal 
conditions,  the  land  in  many  parts  being 
beautifully  undulated,  well  watered  and  well 
wooded.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  coast,  breaks 
in  the  trees  open  up  beautiful  views  of  the 
English  Channel,  Bristol  Channel  or  Atlantic, 
as  the  case  may  be,  while  looking  in  other 
directions  lovely  stretches  of  country  open  out, 
which,  in  many  instances  in  August  aud 
September,  are  ablaze  with  Heather,  Ling  and 
dwarf  Gorse.  Climatic  conditions  also  are 
favourable  to  gardening  operations,  the  climate 
being  fairly  mild,  equable  and  moist.  Some  of 
the  land  is  poor  and  not  very  profitable  ;  but  on 
the  other  hand,  some  of  the  very  best  soil  in  the 
country  is  to  be  found  in  these  counties,  and  this 
may  be  said  of  no  mean  area. 

August  and  September  are  excellent  months 
to  visit  these  gardens,  and  the  holiday-maker 
should  select  a  few  centres  from  which  to  pay 
his  visits.  Exeter,  Plymouth,  Newquay,  Truro, 
Falmouth  and  Penzance  or  Swansea  are  all  suit- 
able cities  or  towns  to  make  as  centres.  A  visit 
to  a  local  nurseryman  in  either  of  these  places  is 
usually  sufficient  to  give  the  visitor  an  idea  as 
to  how  he  may  most  profitably  spend  his  time, 
while  he  may  also,  in  some  instances,  be  fur- 
nished with  letters  of  introduction  to  the 
proprietors  of  gardens.  If  he  does  not  obtain 
these,  a  letter  to  the  owner  of  a  garden  usually 
obtains  the  necessary  permission  for  a  visit.  A 
visit  to  these  counties  forces  upon  one  the  fact 
of  the  extreme  kindness  of  the  proprietors  of 
estates  and  their  agents  and  gardeners,  for  if 
they  see  that  a  man  is  genuinely  interested  in 
the  contents  of  their  gardens  they  frequently  do 
all  that  lies  in  their  power  to  assist  him  in 
obtaining  entrance  to  other  establishments  and 
to  making  his  holiday  a  success.  The  most 
difficult  part  of  the  undertaking  is  the  distance 
that  many  of  these  gardens  are  from  a  railway 
station.  If  he  is  a  cyclist,  so  much  the  better  ; 
but  he  must  not  be  a  nervous  one,  for  cycling 
in  parts  of  Cornwall,  for  instance,  is  full  of  exciting 
incidents,  steep  hills,  narrow  lanes  and  wide  con- 
veyances to  pass  being  of  frequent  occurrence. 


Conveyances  can,  of  course,  be  obtained,  but 
if  the  holiday-maker  if  fond  of  walking  he  can 
do  well  enough  on  foot,  for  his  walks  will  be  full 
of  pleasure  and  interest.  The  narrow  roads, 
with  their  high  banks,  are  frequently  bordered 
with  huge  quantities  of  Hart's-tongue  and  other 
Ferns,  intermixed  with  Heather,  dwarf  Gorse 
and  other  showy  British  plants,  while  here  and 
there,  after  passing  between  high  banks  and 
hedges,  he  reaches  the  top  of  a  hill  to  find 
glorious  expanses  of  Heather,  views  of  the  near 
or  distant  sea,  or  magnificent  stretches  of 
country.  If  he  happens  to  find  himself  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  The  Lizard,  he  will  be  inter- 
ested to  see  scores  of  acres  of  the  Cornish  Heath 
(Erica  vagans)  in  full  bloom,  for  in  this  district 
it  evidently  finds  its  head-quarters.  One  fact 
which  forces  itself  on  persons  who  are  making 
their  first  visit  to  these  southern  counties  is  the 
vigorous  character  and  striking  appearance  of 
two  coniferous  trees  which  are  met  with  almost 
everywhere.  These  two  are  Cupressus  macro- 
oarpa  and  Pinus  insignis,  and  both  thrive 
amazingly.  Other  objects  which  are  likely  to 
appeal  to  him  are  the  enormous  specimen 
Fuchsias  8  feet  or  10  feet  high  and  as  far  through, 
which  appear  everywhere,  and  the  thousands  of 
specimens  in  full  flower  of  Hydrangea  Hortensia. 

On  entering  his  first  garden  he  will  at  once 
notice  the  great  difference  in  the  class  of  arboreal 
vegetation  to  what  he  has  been  used  to  hitherto — 
large  examples  of  Cordyline  australis.  Palms 
10  feet  to  20  feet  high,  Himalayan  Rhodo- 
dendrons, the  scarlet-flowered  Embothrium 
coccineum,  large  trees  of  various  Eucalypti  and 
Australian  Acacias,  immense  bushes  of  Camellias 
and  sometimes  Indian  Azaleas,  hedges  of 
Escallonia  macrantha,  bushes  15  feet  high  of  many 
other  Escallonias,  fine  specimens  of  Desfontainea 
spinosa  and  Tricuspidarias,  Tree  Ferns  and  hosts 
of  other  plants  which  the  resident  in  a  northern 
county  has  only  known  as  puny  pot  plants  before. 
Rare  and  tender  conifers  thrive  amazingly,  and 
such  out-of-the-way  kinds  as  Cunninghamia 
sinensis,  Athrotaxis  cupressoides,  A.  selaginoides 
and  A.  laxifolia,  Dacrydiums  in  variety,  Fitzroya 
patagonica  and  Saxegothea  conspicua  may  be 
noted.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  water  he  will 
find  large  masses  of  New  Zealand  Flax  (Phormium 
tenax),  Gunnera  manicata  with  leaves  9  feet  to 
12  feet  across,  Riohardia  africana  and  many  other 
subjects  that  are  denied  to  the  northern  gardener. 
Rockeries  will  surprise  him,  for  instead  of  the 
usual  alpine  collection  he  will  find  them  ablaze 
with  Mesembryanthemums,  while  Agaves, 
Yuccas,  Aloes,  &c. ,  find  places. 

If  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Falmouth,  he  must 
in  no  way  miss  a  small  garden  in  the  town 
called    Rose    Hill.      This    is    very    favourably 


370 


THE     GARDEN. 


IJULY  31,  190- 


situated,  and  contains  a  wonderful  collection  of 
plants.  Citrons  fruit  well  on  an  outside  wall ; 
Bougainvillea  glabra  oooupiea  another  position  ; 
Rhodochiton  volubile  flowers  well  on  stakes  in 
the  open  ground ;  Daturas  form  immense 
bushes  and  flower  admirably  :  Bamboos,  Palms, 
Cordylines  and  Tree  Ferns  are  very  fine  ;  while 
there  are  very  many  rare  and  choice  shrubs. 

A  climber  which  is  very  common  throughout 
Cornwall  is  Solanura  jisminoides.  This  grows 
everywhere  and  blossoms  admirably,  while 
Clianthus  puniceus,  Araujia  sericifera  and  Cas«a 
corymbosa  are  common  wall  plants.  Myrtles 
form  fine  bushes  and  blossom  freely,  while  one  of 
the  most  conspicuous  flowering  shrubs  in  autumn 
is  Myrtus  Ugnii. 

A  few  miles  from  Falmouth  an  exceptionally 
interesting  garden  called  Bosahan  is  to  be 
found.  This  contains  many  interesting  objects, 
including  a  grove  of  upwards  of  100  good-sized 
Tree  Ferns,  fine  plants  of  Clethra  arborea  and 
a  long  wall  clothed  with  Lipagerias.  Tregoth- 
nan,  the  seat  of  Lord  Falmouth,  is  a  magnificent 
demesne  and  may  be  approached  from  either 
Falmouth  or  Truro.  Is  is  specially  worth  a 
visit.  In  the  vicinity  of  Penzance  numerous 
other  fine  gardens  occur,  Trewidden  being 
specially  worthy  of  note.  A  fact  which  interests 
one  about  Penzance  is  the  manner  in  which 
Geraniums  cover  the  walls  of  houses  ;  they  are 
seen  10  feet  or  12  feet  high  covering  quite  a 
large  area,  and  must  have  occupied  the  same 
position  for  many  years.  A  visit  to  Penzance  is 
not  perfect  without  the  visitor  makes  up  hie 
mind  to  take  steamer  to  the  Soilly  Islands; 
the  journey  occupies  about  three  hours.  He  is 
landed  on  the  Island  of  St.  Mary,  and  from 
there  he  must  take  passage  to  Tresco,  which 
occupies  another  twenty  minutes,  and  inspect 
the  famous  Abbey  Gardens.  Mr.  Dorrien-Smith, 
the  proprietor,  is  an  ardent  gardener,  and  his 
garden  is  filled  with  horticultural  treasures. 
His  collection  of  Mesembryanthemums  growing 
about  in  large  masses  numbers  quite  100 
varieties,  while  pucculent  plants  of  many  kinds 
abound.  New  Zealand  and  Australian  plants 
are  specially  cared  for,  and  magnificent  examples 
of  Callistemons,  Acacias,  &.c. ,  are  met  with. 

These  few  Cornish  gardens  are  mentioned  fas 
examples  ;  but  much  the  same  thing  obtains  in 
Devonshire,  South  Wales,  &e.,  and  the  gardener 
who  goes  on  a  visit  finds  that  his  time  has  passed 
all  too  quickly  ;  but  he  will  look  back  with 
pleasure  for  many  years  to  come  on  the  holiday 
he  spent  among  the  gardens  of  the  South- 
West.  D. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

August  2. — Buckingham  Horticultural  Show  ; 
Prescot  Horticultural  Show ;  Andover  Horti- 
cultural Show  ;  Lichfield  Annual  Flower  .Show. 

Augusts. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's  Exhi- 
bition of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  1  p.m.  to  ti  p.m.  Lecture  at  three 
o'clock  on  "  Water  Plants,"  by  Mr.  F.  W.  Moore, 
V.M.H. 

Augusts. — Blyth  and  Rotherham  Horticultural 
Society's  Show. 


"The  Garden"  Flower  Show.— It  is 

with  great  pleasure  that  we  are  able  to  announce 
that  at  the  time  of  going  to  press  exhibits  are 
being  brought  or  sent  in  from  all  directions.  The 
entries  are  quite  double  the  number  received  last 
year,  some  coming  from  as  far  north  as  Aberdeen 
and  others  from  Plymouth  in  the  south.  It  is 
most  gratifying  to  find  that  our  eflforts  to  promote 
healthy  competition  among  our  readers  are  being 
so  well  supported.  A  full  illustrated  report  of 
the  show  will  be  given  in  our  issue  for  next 
Tveek, 


The    Royal    Hopticultural 
Society's   greneral    examination.— 

The  report  of  the  examiners  of  the  above  exami- 
nation, which  was  held  on  April  21  last,  is  now 
published  in  pamphlet  form,  and  furnishes  some 
interesting  reading.  In  the  classes  for  seniors,  that 
is,  those  over  eighteen  years  of  age,  151  candi- 
dates entered,  of  whom  19  gained  a  position  in 
the  first  class,  69  in  the  second  and  60  in  the 
third.  Three  candidates  only  failed.  In  this 
section  S.  N.  Frost,  Thatoham  Fruit  Farm, 
Henwick,  Newbury,  and  .1.  W.  MacCaig  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  Gardens,  Wisley, 
Ripley,  Surrey,  were  placed  equal  first.  In  the  sec- 
tion for  juniors,  that  is,  those  under  eighteen  years 
of  age,  thesamequestionsweresetasfortheseniors, 
but,  of  course,  an  entirely  difi'erent  standard  was 
expected  in  their  replies  ;  140  candidates  entered 
here,  of  whom  17  obtained  positions  in  the  first 
class,  41  in  the  second  and  60  in  the  third,  22  fail- 
ing altogether.  The  first  positions  in  this  section 
were  shared  by  G.  P.  Boothroyd  of  the  Lether- 
ingsett  Gardening  School,  Holt,  Norfolk,  and 
P.  Chisnall,  Essex  County  School  of  Horticulture, 
Chelmsford.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the 
next  five  positions  in  this  section  were  also 
secured  by  students  at  the  Essex  County  School 
of  Horticulture.  In  their  report  on  the  senior 
section,  the  examiners  state  that  the  answers  to 
the  questions  on  the  ' '  Principles  of  Horticulture  " 
were  very  satisfactory,  especially  those  on 
physiology  ;  and  in  the  junior  section  they  state 
that,  with  regard  to  principles,  quantity  and  not 
quality  was  deficient.  In  "  Operations  and  Prac. 
tioe,"  in  both  sections  the  examiners  report  that, 
considering  the  age  of  the  candidates,  the  answers 
were  very  satisfactory. 

Galloway    House,    Gaplieston, 

Wigtownshire. — This  fine  estate,  compris- 
ing the  large  and  splendidly  situated  mansion  of 
Galloway  House  and  10,000  acres  of  park  and 
agricultural  land  surrounding  it,  has  lately  passed 
by  purchase  from  the  Earl  of  Galloway  to  Sir 
Malcolm  M'Eaoharn,  who,  with  his  family,  has 
now  taken  possession  and  is  residing  there.  This 
estate,  which  formed  about  half  the  property 
owned  by  the  Earl  of  Galloway  in  Wigtownshire, 
contains  some  of  the  best  agricultural  land  in 
Scotland,  while  the  forests  and  woodlands  are 
very  extensive.  The  mansion,  which  was  built 
about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
occupies  a  level  plateau,  and  commands  fine 
views  over  the  estuary  of  the  Solway,  the  waters 
of  which,  together  with  those  of  Wigtown  Bay, 
form  the  south-eastern  boundary  of  the  estate, 
extending  to  nearly  twenty  miles  in  length.  For 
the  greater  part  of  this  course,  along  the  more 
level  tracts  and  around  the  numerous  bays  and 
inlets,  vegetation  thrives  to  within  a  few  feet  of 
high-water  mark.  In  others,  bold,  rooky  head- 
lands and  steep  declivities,  almost  perpendicular 
and  descending  sheer  into  the  ocean,  are  very 
conspicuous,  adding  variety  and  charm  to  the 
situation  not  often  encountered  contiguous  to 
each  other.  In  the  policies  fine  specimens  of 
Beech,  Oak,  Elm  and  Chestnut  trees  abound  ; 
while  shrubs  in  great  variety,  more  especially 
Rhododendrons,  luxuriate  with  great  freedom  in 
the  soft,  saline  atmosphere  that  prevails.  In 
respect  to  the  last-named  shrubs,  several  clumps 
of  R.  russellianum,  planted  fifty  years  ago,  are 
now  nearly  as  many  feet  in  height  and  are  corre- 
spondingly great  in  circumference,  flowering 
profusely  every  year.  To  show  the  trend  of 
events  and  the  times,  it  may  be  stated  that  por- 
tions of  this  estate,  probably  the  greater  part, 
have  been  in  the  possession  of  the  Galloway  family 
for  6(H1  years.  Mr.  .T.  Day  has  been  head- 
gardener  here  for  nearly  thirty  years,  having  been 
engaged  for  the  place  by  the  late  Earl  and 
Countess  of  Galloway  from  Hatfield  House, 
Herts,  in  the  autumn  of  IsTfl,  and  took  charge 
shortly  after.  For  many  years  Mr.  Day  was  a 
successful  exhibitor,  especially  with  fruit,  at  the 
leading  shows  both  in  Scotland  and  England,  and 
although  additional  duties,  by  way  of  estate 
management,     have     of     late     enforced     some 


curtailment  in  this,  local  and  county  shows  still 
receive  attention  and  assistance  by  the  staging  of 
produce  from  these  gardens.  Under  the  present 
proprietor  Mr.  Day  continues  to  manage  the 
garden  and  forestry  departments  of  the  estate, 
and  as  considerable  alterations  and  improve- 
ments are  contemplated,  especially  in  the  latter 
department,  the  former  renown  of  the  place  will 
probably  be  maintained. 

International    horticultural 

exhibitions. — From  time  to  time,  in  recent 
years.  International  horticultural  exhibitions 
have  been  held  at  various  centres  on  the  Con- 
tinent, as  at  Paris,  Berlin,  Ghent,  Turin,  Ac. 
The  last  occasion  on  which  Great  Britain  took 
part  in  these  International  courtesies  was  in 
1866,  and  it  has  occurred  to  the  Council  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  that  it  is  time  that 
our  country  made  an  effort  (say,  in  1911)  to 
return  some  part  of  the  hospitality  which  foreign 
countries  have  so  often  extended  to  this  country 
during  the  forty  years  which  have  elapsed  since 
such  a  gathering  was  held  in  London.  It  has 
further  been  suggested  that  in  connexion  with 
it  a  fourth  conference  should  be  held  on  Genetics, 
I.e.,  on  the  origin,  breeding  and  heredity  of 
plants.  The  first  point  to  be  considered  is,  of 
course,  the  financial  one.  In  the  case  of  the  1866 
International  Show  at  South  Kensington  the 
balance-sheet  gives  an  expenditure  of  £13,000 ; 
and  although  this  was  more  than  covered  by  the 
receipts,  it  is  only  prudent  to  endeavour  to  raise 
such  a  sum.  And  this  may  be  done,  as  it  was  in 
1866,  by  a  combination  of  a  general  guarantee 
fund  and  a  definite  subscription  fund,  every 
guarantor  of  twenty-five  guineas  receiving  a 
ticket  admitting  to  the  show  on  the  opening  day 
and  on  one  other  day,  and  every  subscriber  of 
one  guinea  receiving  a  ticket  admitting  on  the 
opening  day.  The  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
will,  in  due  course,  call  a  meeting  of  horticul- 
turists and  others  to  consider  the  matter  ;  and  if 
the  suggestion  be  adopted  and  an  influential 
general  committee  be  appointed  to  carry  it  out 
on  these  lines,  the  council  is  prepared  to 
guarantee  £5,000  on  condition  that  all  the 
Fellows  of  the  society  receive  admission  tickets 
(not  necessarily  on  the  first  day),  one  ticket  for 
£1  Is.  Fellows,  two  tickets  for  £2  2s.  Fellows, 
and  four  tickets  for  £4  49.  Fellows. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responaibU  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 


Transplantingr   Cauliflowers.  —  It 

is  an  established  rule  that  most  of  the  Cabbage 
tribe  give  better  results  when  transplanted  than 
if  sown  and  merely  thinned,  probably  because  in 
most  cases  more  fibrous  roots  are  formed.  An 
exception  is  to  be  found  in  the  case  of  the  early 
Cauliflowers,  such  as  Sutton's  First  Crop  and 
Veitch's  Early  Forcing.  For  many  years  we 
have  grown  these  on  rich,  sheltered  borders,  the 
ground  being  previously  dressed  with  quicklime 
or  Vaporite  to  lessen  the  slug  pest.  The  seed  is 
covered  with  red  lead  to  protect  it  from  birds 
and  sown  about  1  inch  apart,  with  a  space  of 
1  foot  between  the  drills.  At  this  rate  an 
ordinary  packet  will  cover  a  considerable  space. 
The  young  plants  are  thinned  early  to  a  distance  of 
9  inches  apart,  and  as  soon  as  possible  are  earthed 
up  with  a  draw-hoe  to  prevent  their  swaying 
about.  Receiving  no  check  by  transplantation, 
they  grow  vigorously,  even  in  hot,  dry  weather, 
and  they  do  not  produce  flower-heads  prema- 
turely, as  is  too  often  the  case.  The  latter,  though 
not  large,  average  about  3  inches  to  4  inches 
across,  and  are  much  preferred  for  table  to  those 
of  larger  size,  especially  as  they  are  to  a  great 
extent  protected  from  the  sun  by  the  leaves  being 
pressed  inwards  by  the  adjacent  plants,  and  are 
consequently  of  a  close  texture  and  delicately 
white. — J.  Comber, 


July  31,  1909.  | 


THE     GARDEN. 


371 


Suggestions  for  the  National 
Rose  Society. — On  page  335  your  corre- 
spondent "P."  makes  two  valuable  suggestions 
to  the  National  Rose  Society,  and  doubtless 
many  of  us  would  much  like  to  see  both  carried 
out,  as  the  first  would  show  the  decorative 
character  of  many  varieties  to  better  advantage 
and  certainly  afford  a  truer  idea  of  their  value 
and  growth.  The  idea  of  double  canvas  is  worth 
attention,  and  in  some  seasons  would  appear 
necessary.  I  would  like  to  see  a  class  for 
British-raised  Roses  revived.  What  an  advance 
we  have  made  since  such  were  exhibited  at  the 
metropolitan  shows  twenty-five  to  thirty  years 
ago  !  Even  then  there  were  classes  for  twelve 
and  eighteen  varieties,  and  they  held  their  own 
against  others.  Here  are  a  few  names  of  home- 
raised  Roses  that  will  show  at  a  glance  what  sort 
of  material  we  have  to  select  from  :  Mrs.  W.  J. 
Grant,  Mildred  Grant,  William  Shean,  Queen  of 
Spain,  Cleopatra,  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  Dean 
Hole,  Muriel  Grahame,  S.  A  Prince,  Hugh 
Dickson,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Her  Majesty,  Prince 
Arthur,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman 
Crawford,  Molly  Sharman  Cra\«'ford,  Margaret 
Dickson,  C.  J.  Grahame,  J.  B.  Clark,  Lady 
Ashtown,  Ben  Cant,  Medea,  Beauty  of  Waltham 
and  Duchess  of  Bedford  give  variety  of 
colour  in  every  form,  and  the  list  can  be 
trebled  without  difficulty. — A.  P. 

Fortune's  Yellow  Rose  at 
Castle  Menzies,  Perthshire.— 
It  may  interest  your  many  readers  to 
learn  of  the  success  which  has  been 
achieved  here  in  the  flowering  of  this 
beautiful  Rose.  Planted  on  a  south  wall 
in  a  well- sheltered  and  open  situation 
five  years  ago,  it  has  since  made  vigorous 
growth  ;  but,  except  during  the  summer 
of  1907,  when  it  showed  seven  blooms, 
this  is  the  first  season  it  has  flowered. 
This  year  it  has  shown  about  200  blooms 
of  varied  and  wonderful  colouring  ;  some 
were  self  orange  yellow,  while  others 
were  flaked  and  striped  with  flame.  In 
August  of  last  year  this  Rose  was  treated 
much  in  the  same  way  as  the  ramblers 
are  dealt  with.  After  flowering,  most 
of  the  wood  from  which  we  had  expected 
flowers  was  out  out ;  also  the  current 
year's  growth  was  judiciously  thinned  to 
admit  of  the  sun  getting  at  those  retained , 
with  the  result  that  we  had  well-ripened 
wood  on  the  approach  of  winter.  We 
find  it  to  be  perfectly  hardy,  having 
last  year  withstood  without  any  harm 
18°  of  frost  on  April  23,  and  this  year  on 
May  13  and  14  10"  and  8°.  The  soil  is 
sandy  loam,  but  seemingly  well  charged 
with  the  necessary  mineral  food,  as  most  Roses 
do  well  here  with  but  moderate  mulching  and 
manuring  — J.  Fairlby  (gardener  to  Sir  Neil 
Menzies,  Bart.). 


writes  :  "  I  enclose  for  your  table  a  few  of  the 
interesting  plants  now  in  bloom  here,  among 
them  being  Orchis  feliosa,  Philadelphus  purpurea 
maculatus  and  several  other  varieties,  Carpen- 
teria  ealifornica,  Ostrowskia  magnifica,  Tritoma 
rufa,  Eri^eron  Quakeress  and  a  pretty  little  white 
hardy  Heath." 


Violas  and  Pansies  from  Storrington. 
Mr.  J.  Barnes  of  West  Street,  Storrington, 
sends  us  a  beautiful  lot  of  Violas  and  Pansies, 
which  we  were  very  pleased  to  receive.  The 
size,  shape  and  colour  of  these  flowers  are  all 
excellent,  and  we  congratulate  our  correspondent 
on  his  methods  of  culture. 


A  CoRions  Strawberry. 
Mr.  G.  Bensted  of  Uloombe  sends  us  a  very 
curious  Strawberry,  which  is  certainly  not  at 
all  common.  The  so-called  fruit  has  a  remark- 
ably large  calyx,  and  in  addition  to  this  at  the 
apex  is  quite  a  cluster  of  smaller  fruits,  as 
well  as  foliage ;  in  fact,  we  might  almost 
describe  it  as  a  young  fruiting  plant  sur- 
mounting the  old  fruit.  We  have  occasionally 
seen    examples    similar  to    this,    but   none    so 


ROSE   FORTUNE  S   YELLOW   IN   THE   GARDENS   AT  CASTLE 
MENZIES. 


THE    EDITOR'S   TABLE 


DELPHINirMS  AND   PaiONIES  FROM   SCOTLAND. 

Dr.  Me  Watt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B.,  sends 
us  a  very  fine  lot  of  Delphiniums,  Pseonies, 
Liliums  and  other  plants,  all  of  which  are  of 
very  high  quality  indeed.  Among  the  Del- 
phiniums were  some  very  pretty  varieties,  a  few 
that  we  specially  noticed  beiog  Morelands  Blue, 
rich  azure  blue  ;  Penelope,  very  dark  rich  blue  ; 
Morelands  Sky  Blue,  an  exceedingly  pretty 
flower  that  is  an  improvement  even  on  Belladonna ; 
Candidat,  flowers  very  large  and  rich  blue,  shaded 
purple ;  and  also  several  very  pretty  dwarf 
Delphiniums,  which  we  understand  Dr.  MoWatt 
has  raised  himself. 


Flowers  from  Ireland. 
Mr.  J.  MoWatters  of  The  Mall,  Armagh,  sends 
UB  a  very  interesting  oollevtion  of  flowers,     He 


highly  developed.     Of  course, 
and  of  no  commercial  value. 


it  is  a  pure  freak. 


SWEET 


F 


PEA    TRIALS 
READING. 


AT 


OR  the  benefit  of  readers  who  are  not 
members  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea 
Society  may  I  say  that  these  trials 
have  been  conducted  under  the 
auspices  of  this  go-ahead  society  in 
the  grounds  of  the  University  College 
at  Reading  by  Mr.  Charles  Foster.  In  the  space 
of  what  I  judged  to  be  about  an  acre  and  a-half 
there  are  no  less  than  350  little  rows  of  nine 
plants  each,  so  arranged  that  one  can  walk  all 
round  each  row.  They  are  not  all  different 
varieties,  for  in  several  cases,  e.ff.,  John  Ingman, 
Triumph  Spencer,  &c.,  growers  or  dealers  have 
sent  their  stock  of  those  particular  varieties 
to  be  tested.  This  is  interesting  and  instructive, 
for  there  is  an  undoubted  difference  between  the 
purity  of  the  stocks  of  the  same  variety. 

These  trials  are  visited  from  time  to  time  by 
the  floral  committee,  and  once  in  the  season  by 
the  general  body  of  members.     It  was  on  this 


occasion  (July  16)  that  my  visit  took  place.  The 
first  thing  I  did  on  my  arrival  was  to  purchase  a 
copy  of  the  "catalogue"  of  the  trials.  In  this 
we  get  the  name  of  the  raiser  or  sender,  the 
name  of  the  variety  and  the  colour,  and  a  letter 
denoting  the  purpose  for  which  it  has  been  sent. 
There  is  also  a  blank  page  for  notes.  Armed  with 
this  I  began  my  tour  of  inspection.  Naturally, 
I  paid  a  good  deal  of  attention  to  those  rows 
which  were  conspicuously  marked  by  a  piec'e  of 
white  paper.  These  were  the  novelties  that  the 
floral  committee  had  picked  out  as  worthy  of 
special  merit.  In  all  the'-e  were  eight,  of  which 
frtur  belonged  to  Mr.  Unwin  and  one  each  to 
Mr.  Bolton,  Mr.  Breadmore,  Messrs.  Dobbie  and 
Co.  and  Mr.  Malcolm.  Mr.  Unwin  has  a  lovely 
pale  rosy  blue  ;  a  grand  large  cream,  said  in  the 
catalogue  to  be  flushed  with  pink,  but  which  was 
not  there  in  reality,  unless  my  eyes  deceived 
me ;  a  striking,  rather  dwarf  maroon ;  and  a 
beautiful  orange  scarlet  flake  on  a  white  ground. 
This  last  and  the  cream  I  thought  especially 
nice.  Mr.  Malcolm's  Pea  was  his  splendid 
warm  pink  Edrom  Beauty,  a  plant  of  very 
vigorous  growth  and  with  fine  large  flowers. 
Mr.  Breadmore's  was  one  of  his  dazzlers  (No.  7); 
it  is  a  bright  flower,  after  the  style  of  St.  George. 
Mr.  Bolton's  was  described  as  "  a  new 
shade,"  and  so  it  was.  It  was  one  of  those 
colours  which  are  most  difficult  to 
describe,  a  sort  of  faded  rose  with  a 
suggestion,  or  even  more  than  a  sugges- 
tion, of  mauve  in  it.  To  me  it  looked 
just  a  little  washy.  Messrs.  Dobbie's 
Sunproof  Crimson  is  a  fine  thing,  and  if  it 
is  what  its  name  describes  it  to  be,  will 
be  a  valuable  acquisition.  All  the  above 
were  Spencer  forms. 

So  far  I  have  described  flowers  which 
I  may  call  "officially"  good,  flowers  which 
trained  eyes  have  selected  from  a  large 
number  as  being  something  "extra."    I 
am  now  going   to  mention  a  few   that 
especially  appealed    to   me  as  a  sort  of 
"  man-in- the-street"    observer.      Before, 
however,  I  come  to  individuals  I  must  say 
that  what  I  saw  at  Reading  fully  bore 
out  what  I  have  long  thought,  and  that 
is  that  bright  reds  of  the  Queen  Alexandra 
shade  of  colour,  oranges  and  salmons  are 
very  poor  for  garden  decoration  compared 
with     the     magnificent   purples,    pinks, 
mauves  and  roses.      They  are   delicate- 
looking  "growers  and  seem   to  feel  very 
much  unfavourable  weather  or  bright  sun. 
Two  whites,    H.    J.    Jones's    Blanche 
Stevens    and    Stark's   Stark's   White,   I 
marked  as  goad  ;    the  former  has  very 
large  flowers  indeed,  but  there  were  only 
two   or    three    on  a    stem.      Aldersey's    Helen 
Grosvenor  was  quite  true  and  made  a  beautiful 
bit  of  bright  colour.     Tigwell's  Mrs.  Tigwell  was 
a  delicate  pink  flake  on  a  cream  ground.     As  a 
rule  I  do   not   care   for    the   striped   sorts,  but 
this  was  one  of  the  exceptions.      Numbers  120 
and  121  were  two  pinks  sent  by  Messrs.  E.  W. 
King  and  Co.,  which  were  very  fine  indeed ;  they 
were  of  a  rich,  warm  salmon  pink  colour  and  of 
large  size.     Miss  Hemus's  Zephyr  seemed  quite 
true,  and  is  a  most  desirable  variety  on  account  of 
its  beautiful   lavender-blue  colouring.      Master- 
piece is  somewhat  after   the  style  ef  Mrs.   C. 
Foster,  but  a  more  delicate  shade.     I  noticed  the 
Triumph  Spencers  and  flowers  somewhat  similar 
in  colouring  as  standing  out  very  well.  Again,  the 
floriferousness  of  sueh  sorts  as  Paradise  Beauty, 
Paradise  Constance  Oliver,  Improved  Mrs.    H. 
Bell,   John    Ingraao,    Mrs.   C.    W.    Bresdmore, 
Paradise    Ivory,    Prince    of    Asturias,    Nubian 
(House),  Sutton's  Queen,  Countess  Spencer  (Cole), 
Sky  Blue  (E.  W.  King)  and  Mid  Blue  (Dobbie) 
was  very  marked.  In  the  opinion  of  those  qualified 
to  judge,   these   trials    are   doing  much    good. 
Besides    being   a    test    of   the    novelties,    thby 
are    very    valuable    for    the    bold    light    they 
throw  on  the  purity  or  otherwise  of  individual 
stocks,  Joseph  Jacob. 


372 


THE     GARDEN. 


(July  31,  1909. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

DIOSTEA    JUNCEA. 

THE  subject  of  this  note  is  a  striking 
shrub  of  handsome  appearance  and  one 
which  appears  to  me  deserving  of  much 
wider  culture  and  recognition.  It  has 
been  flowering  here  for  the  past  few 
weeks  and  has  been  a  conspicuous 
object  of  much  beauty.  Its  season  of  flowering 
renders  it  all  the  more  attractive,  as  at  this 
period  of  the  year  the  selection  is  much  more 
limited  than  it  is  a  few  weeks  earlier.  Besides 
the  above  name  the  plant  has  several  synonyms, 
one  of  them  being  Verbena  juncea.  The  small, 
pale  mauve  flowers  are  borne  on  short  racemes. 


DIERVILLA  EVA  RATHKE. 
The  various  Diervillas  or  Weigelas  form  a 
useful  gr9up  of  shrubs  for  garden  decoration, 
and  the  one  under  notice  is,  perhaps,  the  best  of 
all,  for  it  bloBssms  continuously  for  a  period  of 
several  months  from  May  onwards,  while  the 
colour  of  the  flowers  is  a  rieh  deep  red,  quite 
different  from  that  of  other  sorts.  It  is,  of  course, 
of  garden  origin,  and  belongs  to  the  large  number 
of  hybrids  which  are  now  included  under  the 
collective  name  of  D.  hybrida.  D.  Eva  Rathke 
is  an  excellent  shrub  for  a  bed  in  a  prominent 
place  on  a  lawn,  for  a  group  in  a  shrubbery,  or 
for  growing  in  pots  for  forcing  for  the  con- 
servatory in  spring.  At  one  of  the  fortnightly 
exhibitions  at  the  Horticultural  Hall  last  spring 


RHODODENDRON    PINK    PEARL    IN    A    B0S€0MBE    GARDEN. 


and  are  freely  produced  from  the  previous  season's 
growth.  In  general  habit  the  plant  somewhat 
resembles  a  Cytisus.  To  show  it  off  to  the  best 
advantage  it  should  be  planted  in  an  open 
situation,  where  it  will  make  rapid  growth  and 
ignore  what  frost  we  are  likely  to  have. 

Elslree.  E.  Beckett. 

The  casual  observer  might  well  be  excused 
if  he  mistook  this  shrub  for  a  species  of  Broom, 
for  in  habit  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  tall- 
growing  Genista  or  Spartium.  It  is,  however, 
more  closely  associated  with  the  scented  Verbena, 
Lippia  citriodora,  the  two  genera  belonging  to 
the  same  natural  order.  A  native  of  Chili,  it 
has  been  in  cultivation  in  England  for  many 
years,  but  never  in  any  quantity,  and  it  is  an 
extremely  rare  plant.  The  natural  tendency  is 
for  it  to  assume  the  habit  of  a  tall  shrub  of 
rather  loose  outline,  with  slender,  pendent  side 
branches  of  Rush-like  appearance,  sparingly 
clothed  with  small,  oblong  leaves.  The  flowers 
are  white,  tinged  with  violet  on  the  outside, 
tubular  and  borne  in  small,  dense  heads  from 
short  axillary  growtjis.  The  flowering  period 
extends  over  several  weeks  in  June  and  July. 
The  pithy  character  of  the  young  wood  makes  it 
a  rather  difficult  plant  to  propagate,  but  cuttings 
of  balfripe  wood  inserted  in  a  cold  frame  in 
August  root  moderately  well.  For  those 
people  who  are  fond  of  rare  shrubs  the  one 
under  notice  will  be  found  a  suitable  one  to 
tiry,  it  being  worthy  of  a  position  in  any 
garden.  W.  D. 


this  was,  perhaps,  the  most  noticeable  plant 
among  the  great  variety  of  forced  shrubs 
exhibited,  and  it  came  in  for  a  lot  of  admiration. 
The  Diervillas  are  among  the  easiest  of  all  shrubs 
to  propagate,  for  cuttings  of  soft  wood  inserted 
in  sandy  soil  in  a  little  heat  root  in  from  two 
to  three  weeks.  Growth  in  the  early  stages 
is  rapid,  and  useful  plants  are  quiokly  formed. 
This  particular  variety  is  improved  by  having 
old,  worn-out  wood  removed  in  early  spring, 
leaving  as  much  as  possible  of  the  previous  year's 
growth.  Being  such  a  prolific  flowerer  it  soon 
exhausts  itself  unless  generously  treated  with 
regard  to  top-dressings  of  rotten  manure  and  an 
occasional  applicatiom  of  manure-water.    W.  D. 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN 


RHODODENDRON  PINK  PEARL. 
Since  the  introduction  of  this  beautiful  Rhodo- 
dendron a  few  years  ago,  it  has  been  freely 
planted  in  gardens  throughout  the  United 
Kingdom,  with  the  result  that  many  fine  speci- 
mens are  now  to  be  found.  The  accompanying 
illustration  is  from  a  photograph  kindly  sent  to 
us  by  Mr.  G.  G.  Hamilton,  Boscombe  Place, 
Boscombe,  Bournemouth,  and  repreienti  a  plant 
growing  in  the  garden  there.  We  understand 
this  specimen  measures  about  9  feet  in  diameter, 
and  would,  of  course,  be  a  very  beautiful 
sight  during  the  flowering  period,  its  extra 
large  trusses  of  delicate  and  clear  pink 
flowers  showing  up  to  the  best  advantage 
against  the  natural  background  of  dark  green 
foliage. 


THE    CROSS- FERTILISATION    OF 
ROSES. 

[In  reply  to  a  Correspondent.] 
AM  not  at  all  surprised  at  your  request 
for  information  upon  this  fascinating 
subject ;  the  only  thing  that  surprises  me 
is  the  reluctance  amateurs  have  shown 
in  taking  up  the  work  of  cross-fertilising 
Roses,  as  some  are  doing  with  Orchids, 
Daffodils,  Sweet  Peas  and  other  flowers.  Why 
should  it  be  left  entirely  to  the  trade  growers  to 
give  us  our  Rose  novelties  when  the  work  of 
raising  seedlings  is  so  easy,  even  though  a  deal 
of  patience,  time,  money  and  skill  are  requisite 
for  the  work '.' 

The  great  advantage  beginners  may  have  is 
that  they  can  commence  where  other  raisers 
leave  off.  This  may  need  an  explanation.  It  is 
generally  known  that  Messrs.  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons  produce  a  number  of  their  seedlings  by 
intercrossing  various  seedlings  to  the  second  and 
third  generation.  M.  Pernet-Ducher  obtains,  I 
am  told,  many  of  his  glorious  novelties  from  the 
one  seed-parent,  a  seedling  of  remarkable  colour 
and  almost  single.  Now,  what  is  to  prevent  the 
amateur  from  crossing  some  of  the  latest  intro- 
ductions of  these  eminent  raisers,  and  thus 
benefiting  by  their  past  labours  and  incorporating 
the  good  points  of  their  novelties  ? 

To  show  it  is  not  essential  to  have  a  strain  of 
one's  own,  I  may  instance  the  reputed  parentage 
of  four  very  remarkable  Roses :  Frau  Karl 
Druschki  was  raised  from  Caroline  Testout 
crossed  with  Merveille  de  Lyon  ;  Earl  of 
Warwick,  from  Souvenir  de  S  A.  Prince  crossed 
with  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  ;  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux, 
from  Ri've  d'Or  crossed  with  Vifcountess 
Folkestone ;  and  Mme.  Segond- Weber,  from 
Antoine  Rivoire  crossed  with  Souvenir  de 
Victor  Hugo.  I  myself  have  obtained  some 
splendid  novelties  from  crosses  such  as  Frau 
Karl  Druschki  x  Paul  Led  6,  Souvenir  de 
William    Robinson  Pharisaer,    Pharisaer    x 

Mme.  Ravary,  Irene  •:  Pharisaer,  Prince  de 
Bulgarie  ;<  Earl  of  Warwick,  G.  Nabonnand  x 
Liberty,  Mme.  Edmee  Metz  x  Victor  Hugo, 
Captain  Hayward  x  Soleil  d'Or,  and  hundreds  of 
others — Rambler,  China,  Polyantha  Roses,  &c. — 
many  of  which  will  doubtless,  in  due  course,  find 
their  way  into  our  Rose  gardens. 

You  ask  if  a  Rose  fertilises  itself.  I  reply. 
Yes,  but  the  offspring  of  such  seed  rarely  pro- 
duces novelties  of  merit.  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
Melanie  Soupert,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Liberty  and 
others  will  yield  fine  pods  of  seed  that  only  need 
a  hot,  dry  summer  in  order  to  ripen,  but  possibly 
a  bushel  of  sueh  seed  would  produce  no  more 
than  two  or  three  distinct  novelties  ;  hence  the 
need  to  try  and  blend  various  qualities  in  our 
crosses.  You  also  ask  if  Frau  Karl  Druschki 
and  Marcichal  Niel  are  good  seed  and  pollen 
parents.  The  former  is  excellent  and  can  be 
employed  both  ways.  Mariohal  Niel  is  very 
erratic,  although  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting  is 
reputed  to  have  been  raised  from  Maman  Coohet 
crossed  with  the  King  of  Roses.  The  late  Mr. 
Henry  Bennett  once  told  me  he  had  often  seeded 
Mar^chal  Niel ;  but  where  the  offspring  went  to 
I  do  not  know.  Probably  at  his  lamentable 
death  they  were  lost,  or  those  who  bought  the 
seedlings  lost  them.  It  is  well  known  that  some  of 
his  seedlings  have  since  been  sent  out  by  various 
houses  without  giving  this  grand  old  pioneer  in 
cross-breeding  the  Rose  the  credit  of  raising 
them. 

You  will  find  some  excellent  information  relat- 
ing to  the  influence  of  the  seed  and  pollen  parents 
in  a  paper  read  before  the  Hybrid  Conference  by 
Max  Leichtlin  and  printed  in  the  Journal  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  (Vol.  XXIV.). 
Briefly,  he  says  the  female  gives  form,  shape  and 
certain  other  qualities,  and  the  male  colour.  If 
the  latter  is  rieher  in  colour  and  freer  flowering 


July  31,^1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


373 


than  the  female  these  qualities  are  transferred 
also.  Doubtless  raisers  will  be  using  the  pollen 
of  that  marvellous  cross  the  Lyon  Rose,  for  it 
yields  pollen  freely,  and  probably  it  may  be 
induced  to  seed. 

In  my  essay,  published  by  the  National  Rose 
Society  and  now  out  of  print,  I  gave  there  various 
hints  upon  the  subject  of  cross-fertilising  the 
Rose  ;  but  to  explain  these  in  detail  would  take 
up  too  much  space  in  The  Gaudbn.  However, 
it  is  a  subject  I  am  deeply  interested  in,  and  I 
gladly  offer  a  few  details  that  may  help  you  and 
other  amateurs  to  make  a  start  in  the  work.  In 
the  first  place,  do  not  attempt  the  work  outdoors. 
M.  Pernet-Dueher  does  all  his  crossing  in  the 
open  ;  but  then  he  lives  at  Lyons  and  we  are  in 
sunless  Britain.  We  can  resort  to  nur  green- 
houses, and  it  does  not  matter  how  small  they  are, 
providing  all  the  sunlight  obtainable  can  be 
utilised  early  in  the  year.  Secure  some  estab- 
lished plants  of  the  sorts  desired  for  seed  and 
also  for  pollen.  They  should  be  in  6-inoh  or 
SJ-inch  pots.  Prune  them  in  December  and  start 
them  steadily  into  growth  by  giving  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  50°  at  night.  They  should  be  in 
bloom  early  in  March.  When  in  bloom  keep  the 
atmosphere  very  dry,  even  though  mildew  and 
other  pests  may  be  the  result.  The  flower  to  be 
fertilised  should  be  denuded  of  its  petals  when 
in  the  bud  stage,  so  that  the  stamens  can  be 
removed  before  the  pollen  is  formed  in  them.  A 
penknife  and  small  scissors  will  do  all  this.  Now 
wait  until  the  time  when  the  pollen  would  have 
been  ripe  if  it  had  been  allowed  to  mature.  This 
would  be  about  three  or  four  days,  perhaps 
more,  but  the  flower  may  be  fertilised  before  the 
pistilts  or  female  parts  are  in  a  receptive  state, 
because  it  will  be  there  when  they  arrive  at  this 
condition.  To  make  doubly  sure,  the  flower  may 
be  again  fertilised  from  the  same  flower  a  day  or 
two  later.  Envelop  the  bloom  in  a  small  paper  bag 
and  attach  a  tally  with  cross  and  date.  It  may 
be  so  enclosed  for  two  or  three  weeks.  Some 
may  hesitate  to  remove  the  petals.  I  have  not  only 
done  this,  but  have  removed  the  calyx  also.  I 
do  not,  however,  recommend  the  latter  course. 

Do  not  allow  the  roots  of  the  plants  to  become 
dry,  but  keep  the  atmosphere  dry  and  up  to  70° 
if  possible  by  day.  Ventilation  should  only  be 
given  on  very  bright  days.  If  pollen  flowers 
ripen  before  required,  the  pollen  may  be  kept 
between  two  pieces  of  glass  and  labelled.  It  will 
retain  its  virtue  a  long  time.  Keep  the  plants 
under  glass  the  whole  of  the  summer  and 
autumn.  The  seed-pods  will  swell  off  and 
commence  to  ripen  by  July;  but  by  giving 
abundance  of  air  night  and  day  they  will  hang 
on  the  plants  until  November,  when  they  may 
be  gathered  with  a  stalk  and  placed  in  pots  of 
damp  sand.  Here  they  remain  until  the  time  of 
sowing  (December).  An  idea  is  prevalent  that 
some  mystery  attaches  to  the  cross-fertilising 
process.  This  is  erroneous.  Anybody  can 
do  the  work  who  is  possessed  of  an  observing 
mind,  great  patience  and  common-sense.  Starved 
plants  are  better  to  operate  upon  than  highly 
fed  exhibition  plants.  If  you  cannot  procure 
pot-grown  plants  of  the  sorts  you  want,  pot  them 
up  yourself  next  October  and  forse  moderately 
the  first  year,  or,  better  still,  grow  them  first  out- 
doors for  a  year. 

Sowing  the  seed  must  be  done  under  glass, 
otherwise  all  our  labour  is  wasted  by  the  depre- 
dations of  mice,  woodlice,  birds  and  slugs. 
Prepare  a  number  of  pots  in  this  way.  Take 
some  d-inch  pots  and  place  some  fine  crocks  in 
the  bottom.  Next  place  a  3-inch  pot  inside  so 
that  the  rims  of  both  are  level,  and  fill  up  the 
intervening  space  with  fine  peat.  Leave  a  space 
at  the  top  to  take  water  to  keep  the  peat  moist. 
The  object  of  this  peat  is  to  keep  the  soil  in  the 
small  pot  from  drying,  as  Rose  seed  must  never 
be  allowed  to  dry  after  it  has  been  taken  from 
the  pod.  Prepare  some  fine  compost  as  follows  : 
Sifted  loam,  one  part ;  sifted  leaf-soil,  one  part ; 
silver  sand,  one  part.  Put  three  seeds  in  each 
pot  at  a  depth  of  half  an  inch,  cover  the  soil  to 


the  level  of  the  pot  with  silver  sand  and  give 
all  a  good  watering.  Stand  the  pots  on  staging, 
preferably  upon  a  bed  of  ashes,  and  maintain  a 
moderate,  genial  temperature  of  about  50°  to  55°, 
with  a  fairly  humid  atmosphere.  Just  spray 
the  seed-pots  over  when  necessary,  so  that  an 
even  moisture  of  soil  is  maintained.  Sow  the 
seeds  immediately  they  are  taken  from  the  pods. 
If  these  latter  are  allowed  to  become  crisp  they 
are  almost  useless ;  rather  bury  them  in  damp  sand 
until  ready  for  sowing.  There  is  a  sort  of  juice 
about  the  seed  which  should  not  be  allowed  to  dry, 
and  by  sowing  it  at  once  this  is  preserved. 

The  seedlings  will  begin  to  appear  in  two  to 
three  months,  some  before,  and  they  must  have 
the  same  care  as  choice  seedlings  of  other  plants 
would  have,  avoiding  dampness.  Water  only  on 
fine  mornings  and  do  not  wet  the  seedlings  if  it 
can  be  avoided.  If  it  is  done,  brush  them  over 
with  a  camel-hair  brush.  As  soon  as  the  seed- 
lings show  the  third  leaf,  prick  them  off  into  small 
pots  (thumbs)  in  the  same  compost.  It  would, 
of  course,  be  best  if  only  one  seed  was  sown  in  a 
pot ;  then  the  pricking  off  would  be  unnecessary. 
We  should  simply  pot  on  the  little  plant  as 
required.  The  tiny  seedlings  will  often  flower 
the  first  year  ;  but  it  would  be  best  to  pinch  off' 
the  bloom,  as  often  the  plants  die  after  flowering. 
Secure  a  bud  as  early  as  possible  and  bud  it  on 
to  a  small  seedling  Briar.  Do  not  despair  if  the 
flower  is  not  very  startling.     I  remember  when  I 


a  new  race  of  creeping  Teas  by  crossing  Tea 
Roses  with  R.  wiohuraiana.  The  marvellous 
variations  possible  are  almost  as  inexhaustible  as 
the  changes  on  a  peal  of  bells.  It  only  needs 
leisure,  skill  and  patience  to  accomplish  some  yet 
marvellous  results,  and  I  hope  these  few  dis- 
jointed notes  may  induce  you  and  others  to  take 
up  the  work. 
Eastwood,  Essex.  Walter  Easlea. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN 


A  VALUABLE  SUMMER  LETTUCE. 

(Caktbr's  Holborn  Standard  ) 

A  T  certain  seasons  the  excellent  qualities 

/%  of    dififerent    vegetables     are     more 

/    %        prominent    than    others,    and     this 

/      \        summer,  owing  to  the  great  rainfall 

/  M      '°  June  and  July,  the  above  Lettuce 

has  proved  a  most  valuable  variety. 

Even   in   adverse   seasons  Holborn  Standard   is 

reliable,    but   this  season   the  quality  has   been 

exceptionally  fine.     As  many  growers  are  aware, 

a  wet  season  is  not  always  the  best  for  Lettuce, 

as   some  of  the    best   Cabbage  forms  when   full 

grown  do  not  keep  well ;  but  this  is  not  the  case 

with  the  variety  under  notice,  as  it  appears  to 

me  what  one  may  almost  term  weather-proof. 

The  heart,  though    remarkably  crisp,  does  not 


A   GOOD   SPECIMEN   OF  LETTDCE   CARTERS   HOLBORN  STANDARD. 


first  budded  Earl  of  W^arwiok  it  was  nothing 
very  special,  but  see  now  what  a  Rose  it  has 
developed  into. 

In  conclusion,  I  would  advise  any  amateur 
desirous  of  taking  up  this  work  to  try  and 
specialise  on  some  sort  or  species,  as  Lord 
Penzance  did.  Employ  other  hitherto  untried 
types,  such  as  R.  luoida,  R.  microphylla,  &c.  I 
saw  a  lovely  hybrid  at  Kew  from  this  latter  ;  it 
had  a  big  flower  like  an  Azalea.  Take,  for 
example,  that  delightful  Rose,  R.  sinioa  Anemone, 
a  cross  between  R.  sinica  and  a  Tea  Rose ;  or 
Una,  Mr.  George  Paul's  lovely  single  Rose,  a  cross 
between  R.  canina  and  a  Tea.  Then  see  what 
Mr.  George  Laing  Paul  is  doing  in  creating  quite 


decay,  and  remains  sound  a   long   time,    thus 
making  it  invaluable  in  such  a  season. 

Previously  I  had  noted  its  value  in  a  hot 
season,  as  it  is  one  of  the  lust  of  the  Cabbage 
forms  to  run  to  seed,  and  its  firm  growth  appears 
to  ward  off  attacks  of  fly  or  other  pests.  As 
a  large  portion  of  the  plant  is  heart  or  centre, 
there  being  few  outer  leaves,  this  variety  is  one 
of  the  best  where  space  is  none  too  great  and  the 
best  quality  is  required.  Sown  several  times 
during  the  season  from  April  to  August,  there 
will  be  a  supply  of  choice  salad  material  at 
command  and  grown  at  a  small  cost  as  regards 
labour,  as  the  plants  form  their  heads  very  early, 
and  even  in  a  small  state  the  flavour  is  excellent. 


374 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  July  31,  1909. 


It  is  one    of    the  moat  handsome    Lettuces    I 
have  grown  and  a  splendid  exhibition  variety. 

G.  Wythes. 
[The  specimen  shown  in  the  illustration  was 
grown  from  seed  sown  outdoors  the  middle  of 
April  and  was  given  only  ordinary  treatment. 
The  photograph  was  taken  on  July  15,  when  the 
Lettuce  measured  exactly  16  inches  in  diameter. 
Ed.] 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


RAMONDIA    PYRENAIUA    ALBA. 


A  MO 

A 


PEAS  IN  OCTOBER  AND  NOVEMBER. 
The  amateur   with   a  small    garden  often  has 
dishes  of  Peas  in  July,  but  there  is  none  much 
later.     Those  who  have  to  rely  upon  the  green- 
grocer cannot  expect  Peas  much  later  ;  but  those 
with   gardens    at   command    can 
have  nice  dishes  by  sowing  now 
if  the  crop  is  grown  in  an  open 
position  and  not  crowded.     I  am 
aware  even  with  a  good  position 
some   failures  will  occur,  but  in 
nine  oases  out  of  ten  the  soil  is 
at  fault ;    it  is,   however,   worth 
improving.     We  often  go  to  a  lot 
of  trouble  to  grow  large  Onions, 
Parsnips  a  yard  long  and  similar 
useless    vegetables.      Why    not 
improve  poor  soil  to  get  autumn 
Peas  ?    The  soil  is  not  only  made 

more  suitable  for  one  crop,  but 

others  that  follow  it. 

As  Peas  on  a  poor,  thin  soil 

resting  on  gravel  will  not  give  a 

good  return  in  the  autumn,  the 

land  must  be  improved.    I  advise 

double  digging  even  now,  at  the 

same  time  incorporating  a  good 

amount  of  stable  manure.     Also, 

in  poor,  thin  soil  the  Peas  should 

be    grown    in     deep     drills    or 

trenches,  and  in  such  soil  loam  of 

a  heavy  nature  must  be  added 

for  the   roots.     The  difficulty  is 

to  keep  the  roots  cool  and  strong, 

say,  in  August  or  early  Septem- 
ber, but  if  this  can  be  done  the 

result  will  be  satisfactory ;  there 

must    be    no    check,    but    free 

growth  from  the  commencement. 

I  am  aware,  in  a  hot  dry  season, 

at  the    start    moisture    may   be 

necessary,  but  in  deep  drills  or 

trenches    with    ample    food    the 

moisture  is  retained.     I  do  not 

advise  just  merely  damping  the 

plants,  but  well  watering  at  the 

rsots.      I  have,  to  prevent  rapid 

evaporation,  placed  a  mulch  of 

spent  manure  ar  even  litter  on 

the  surface  seil  outside  the  rows, 

and  the  earth  is  maintained  much 

cooler  treated  thus. 

I  do  not  advise  the  culture  of 

autumn    Peas  in  a    small    back 

garden  in   a   town,   but  in    the 

country  there  is  no  difficulty  if 

the  grower  studies  the  plant  as 

advised.     I  found  it  a  good  plan 

to  sow  on  what  one  may  term  a 

cool  site,  as  here  the  Peas  get  more  moisture  at 

the  start,  and  once  they  are  robust  they  go  away 

freely. 
For  some  time  I  relied  upon  Gradus,  a  most 

valuable     variety     either     for     late    or     early 

supplies  ;    but  since  then  Sutton's  Early  Giant 

has  been  a    great  favourite.        We    have    now 

also  some    varieties  specially  adapted   for  this 

season,  such  as  Sutton's  Late  Queen  and 
Carter's  Michaelmas  ;  these  do  not  exceed  3  feet 
and  they  are  of  fine  quality.  The  dwarfer  early 
Peas,  such  as  Little  Marvel,  are  also  excellent. 
Another  good  Pea  equally  suitable  for  late  sow- 
ing is  Langley  Gem,  a  variety  not  so  well  known 
as  it  deserves  to  be.     It  is  dwarf  and  of  excellent 

"quality,  and  may  be  regarded  as  a  good  all-round 

Tea  for  small  gardens.  G.  Wythes. 


MONG  the  cool  and  shade-loving  alpines 

none    is    more    popular,    none   more 

easily    managed,     and     none     gives 

greater  general  satisfaction  than  the 

Kamondia,    though    most   prized    of 

all   is    the  pure   white   form   of  the 

plant    which    is    shown    in    the   accompanying 

illustration.      What  the  Ramondia    delights   in 

are     the     cooling     influence     of     sandstone     or 

other  rook  and  that  degree  of  uniform  shade 

which    in    the    rock    garden    is    most    usually 


'\'mJf:/< 


^^u 


RAMONDIA   PVRENAICA    AT    MYDDELTON    HOUSE   OARDBN?. 


afforded  by  a  north-western  aspect.  In  such 
a  spot  as  this,  and  in  a  free  mixture  of  loam, 
sand,  leaf-soil  and  peat  in  equal  parts,  the  plant 
gives  little  trouble  if  well  and  firmly  planted 
and  where  the  soil  available  is  by  no  means 
meagre.  The  plant  will  do  quite  well  in  a  moist 
peaty  soil  on  level  ground,  but  the  rugged  leaves 
lying  prostrate  thereon  never  appear  to  suoh 
advantage  as  when  facing  the  nearly  vertical 
surface  of  a  wall,  and  here,  too,  the  plant  appears 
perfectly  at  home  when  in  flower.  The  seedling 
forms  of  the  Ramondia  are  variable,  and  apart 
from  the  yellowish  centre,  the  petals  often  assume 
a  pinkish  tone  that  in  no  sense  detracts  from  its 
beauty.  What  the  plant  detests  is  anything 
approaching  to  root  dryness,  which  causes 
the    leaves   to  shrivel  up.      The  illustration  is 


from  a  photograph  taken  in  Mr.  E.   A.  Bowles' 
gardens  at  Myddelton  House.  E.  J. 

THE    HARDY    PRIMULAS. 
(Continued  from  page  S6S.J 
Primula   Stbinii     (hirsuta  x  minima). — Nearer 
to  P.  hirsuta. 

P.  St-urii  (minima  X  villosa). — From  the  high 
limestone  Alps  of  the  Southern  Tyrol ;  closely 
allied  to  P.  Allionii,  with  rose  lilac  flowers. 

P.  variabilis  (acaulis  x  officinalis). — A  hand- 
some border  plant,  with  umbels  of  Primrose-like 
flowers. 

P.  venusta  (Auricula  x  oarniolica). — A  native 
of  the  limestone  Alps  of  Carinthia  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  3,000  feet  to  4,000  feet. 
It  is  very  near  P.  Arctotis,  but 
may  be  distinguished  by  its  rose- 
coloured,  purple,  or  white — 
never  yellow — flowers  and  by  its 
leaves  regularly  serrated  and 
edged  with  white.  The  whole 
plant  is  mealy,  and  it  is  as 
easily  grown  as  the  varieties  of 
P.  Auricula. 

P.  Venzoi  (tyrolensis  x  wul- 
feniana). 

P.  vochinenaia  (wulfeniaua  x 
minima). 

P.  Wettiteinii  (clusiana  x 
minima).  —  From  the  Wien»r 
Schneeberg  in  Austria. 

Besides  these  the  number  of 
hybrids  raised  in  gardens  are 
very  numerous.  Below  follow 
a  selection  of  plants  suitable 
for  each  of  the  three  conditions 
under  which  the  plants  of  this 
family  may  be  grown ;  but 
while  those  plants  under  each 
head  will  succeed  well  with  those 
conditions,  it  does  not  follow 
that  they  may  not  also  be 
successfully  grown  otherwise. 
As  in  the  case  of  P.  japonioa, 
which  may  either  be  grown  in  a 
bog  or  border,  it  attains  to  its 
greatest  size  in  rich,  moist 
ground. 

Rock  Planta. — P.  Arctotis,  P. 
Auricula  and  varieties,  P.  caly- 
cina,  P.  camiolica,  P.  clusiana,  P. 
Facchinii,  P.  Heerii,  P.  hirsuta 
and  varieties,  P.  marginata,  P. 
lenensis,  P.  Palinuri,  P.  pede- 
montana,  P.  spectabilis,  P. 
villosa,  P.  viscosa  and  P. 
wulfeniana. 

Marah  Plants. — P.  auriculata, 
P.  deorum,  P.  farinosa  and 
varieties,  P.  f  rondosa,  P.  grandis, 
P.  involucrata,  P.  japonica,  P. 
longiflora,  P.  luteola,  P.  Parryi, 
P.  Poissonii,  P.  rosea,  P.  sikkim- 
ensis  and  P.  vittata. 

Shady     Borders     (Moiat). — P. 

capitata,    P.    oockburniana,     P. 

denticulata,  P.    d.    cashmiriana, 

P.   elatior,  P.    megaseaefolia,   P. 

pulverulenta,  P.   Stuartii  and  P. 


officinalis, 

Veitchii.  . 

Many  good  plants  are,  doubtless,  omitted  in 
the  above  seleetions  ;  but  those  given  can  be 
recommended  as  being  among  the  easiest  to  grow 
and  likely  to  give  the  best  results.     W.  Irving. 


THE 


EASTERN    BELLFLOWER. 

(OSTROWSKIA   MAGNinCA.) 

The  Eastern  Bellflower  is  one  of  the  noblest 
of  hardy  perennial  herbioeous  plants — noble  in 
the  twofold  sense  that  it  is  a  giant  so  far 
as  its  individual  flowers  are  concerned  and 
because  of  its  imposing  stature  and  distinc- 
tiveness   when    seen    in   good  sized    groups   in 


July  31,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN 


375 


our  gardens.  Comparable  to  no  other  floTrer  of 
the  garden  at  any  season  of  the  year,  it  is  a 
plant  to  be  studied  and  made  much  of  by  every 
lover  of  hardy  plants,  and  those  in  particular 
who  desire  to  grow  the  most  striking,  beautiful 
and  interesting  subjects  a  garden  may  contain. 
That  this  remarkable  plant  is  not  a  success  in 
any  and  every  garden  or  locality  is  well  known, 
but  the  fact  should  greatly  strengthen  the 
determination  of  those  for  whom  the  best  of 
everything  is  quite  good  enough,  while  a  few 
difficulties  to  be  overcome  at  the  start  with  a 
subject  so  unique  adds  a  thousandfold  to 
the  pleasures  that  a  complete  success  invariably 
ensures. 

The  giant  blossoms,  as  seen  in  the  illustration, 
are  openly  bell-shaped,  whitish,  and  with  a  lilac 
suffusion  throughout.  Those  of  the  largest  size  are 
often  5  inches  across  the  mouth  ;  hence  it  will  be 
seen  that  it  is  handsome  in  the  extreme.  From  the 
cultural  point  of  view  the  plant  requires  a  warm 
corner,  and  should  be  planted  in  sandy,  well- 
drained  loam  which  is  freely  intermingled  with 
old  mortar  or  lime  rubbish.  Rooting  to  a  con- 
siderable depth,  the  long,  Uarrot-like  roots  often 
descending  to  2  feet  or  even  more,  the  bed  of  soil 
should  be  well  and  deeply  prepared,  as  once  the 
plant  reaches  the  flowering  stage,  which  it  usually 
does  in  about  four  years  from  seed,  the  plants 
may  give  a  fairly  good  flowering  each  year.  In 
this  respect  it  is  not  absolutely  reliable,  however, 
and  much  will  depend  upon  the  way  the  plants 
have  passed  the  winter.  Like  not  a  few  of  the 
Bellflower  family,  the  plant  is  frequently 
attacked  by  slugs,  the  pest  being  particularly 
fond  of  the  orown-buds.  The  flowering  period 
is  July,  and,  where  established  pot  plants  are 
available,  these  should  be  planted  in  spring  or 
early  summer.  As  the  roots  are  very  brittle  and 
easily  broken,  the  plant  should  be  handled  with 
care.  It  is  a  native  of  Eastern  Bokhara,  and 
usually  attains  3  feet  or  thereabouts  in  height. 
The  illustration  depicts  a  group  of  this  magnifi- 
cent plant  growing  in  the  nurseries  of  Mr.  Amos 
Perry,  Enfield.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

CoTTieia  Down.  —  Plants  which  have  been 
flowering  incessantly  since  the  earlier  half  of 
June,  and  have  during  the  time  produced  many 
thousands  of  blooms,  may  be  expected  to  show 
some  indications  of  becoming  exhausted  at  the 
present  date.  This  will  more  particularly  prove 
to  be  the  case  in  those  instances  where  it  has 
not  been  possible  to  provide  a  sufficiently  wide 
variety  of  food  and  where  the  lateral  growths 
have  been  allowed  to  proceed  practically  un- 
checked. Later  plants  will  probably  be  yielding 
abundance  of  excellent  stems  for  home  adorn- 
ment or  for  exhibition,  as  the  case  may  be,  and 
little  trouble  will  be  experienced  in  keeping  them 
growing  freely  for  a  considerable  time  yet, 
provided  that  it  is  easy  to  give  plenty  of  water 
and  liquid  manure  in  at  least  three  kinds,  with  a 
surface  mulching  of  short  manure  to  keep  the 
soil  cool  and  moist.  Those  who  go  away  for 
their  holidays  during  the  month  of  August  may 
advisedly  try  cutting  the  plants  down  now  that 
they  are  obviously  passing  their  best,  in  the  hope 
that  they  will  give  a  second  crop  of  flowers  in 
September.  The  treatment  sounds  very  drastic, 
but  there  is  scarcely  any  likelihood  that  dis- 
appointment will  be  the  result.  All  shoots 
should  be  severed  at  about  3  feet  from  the 
ground  with  a  pair  of  shears,  and  all  that  the 
grower  has  then  to  do  is  to  attend  to  them  care- 
fully and  wait. 

Treatment  of  the  Plants. — As  soon  as  the 
tops  have  been  removed,  the  cultivator  should 
thoroughly  fork  over  the  soil  with  a  view  to 
loosening  it  to  a  depth  of  about  3  inches,  and 
then  set  to  work  and  give  water  in  immense 
quantities  until  it  is  absolutely  certain  that  the 
whole  mass  to  3  feet  down  is  quite  moist.  A 
day  or  two  after  this  follow  on  with  some  liquid 
manure,  and  use  that  generously,  too.     It  is  not 


particularly  important  what  kind  is  used  at  this 
stage  ;  but  since  it  is  essential  that  we  shall 
have  fresh  growths,  it  is  wise  to  use  a  certain 
proportion  of  nitrogen.  At  the  same  time  much 
care  must  be  exercised,  or  the  result  will  be 
luxuriant  shoots  that  will  never  give  any  good 
flowers.  Soot-water  has  been  proved  excellent 
for  this  stage,  as  indeed  it  has  for  practically  all 
others  when  food  is  wanted,  while  nitrate  of 
soda  at  the  rate  of  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  to 
a  gallon  of  water  will  seldom  come  amiss  to 
plants  with  healthy  roots  working  in  a  friable 
soil.  The  quantity  of  either  of  these  that  should 
be  given  must  not  be  less  than  three  gallons  to 
the  square  yard,  and  it  may  be  much  more  if  the 
soil  is  light  and  especially  porous. 

As  soon  as  the  soaking  with  water  and  liquid 
manure  is  completed,  the  grower  should  procure 
some  of  the  finest  stable  or  farmyard  manure  and 
spread  on  a  mulch  3  inches  in  thickness  from 
within  1  inch  or  2  inches  of  the  base  of  the  plants 
to  2  feet  or  3  feet  away  ;  subsequent  watering  or 
rain  will  wash  in  the  nutrient  matters  from  this, 
and  the  plants  will  derive  decided  benefit.  We 
have,  however,  to  consider  the  top   growth  as 


ONONIS    KOTUNDIFOLIUS. 

A  native  of  Southern  Europe,  this  low-growing, 
shrubby  herbaceous  perennial  usually  arrests 
attention,  and  is  a  most  desirable  asset  in  any 
garden.  Few  plants  associate  and  lend  them- 
selves more  artistically  to  the  borders  of  the 
shrubberies  than  the  above,  or  when  planted  on 
an  open  position  on  the  rockery,  with  plenty  of 
room  to  develop,  this  will  soon  make  a  charming 
mass.  The  pink.  Pea-shaped  flowers  are  freely 
produced  as  soon  as  growth  commences  early  in 
spring,  and  continue  to  come  in  abundance 
throughout  the  summer  months.  Plants  can 
readily  be  obtained  from  seed,  which  ripens 
freely.  E.  Beckett. 


COLOURED     PLATE, 

PLATE    1379. 


NEW  SWEET  PEA  MRS.  A.  IRELAND. 
The  National  Sweet  Pea  Society  cannot  be 
accused  of  being  too  liberal  with  its  awards. 


A   cluster  or  03TR0W8KIA  MAONIFICA   IN    MK.    AMOS   PERRY  S   NURSERY. 


well  as  the  roots.  The  plants  should  be  hosed  or 
heavily  syringed  on  the  evenings  of  fine  days  for 
a  week  or  so.  The  result  of  the  cutting  down 
will  be  the  production  of  l&rge  numbers  of  new 
growths,  and  if  all  of  these  are  allowed  to  remain 
the  plants  will  become  thickets  of  comparatively 
weak  spray  that  will  never  yield  any  good  blooms. 
Therefore  it  is  imperative  that  disbudding  shall 
have  careful  attention  and  no  plant  be  per- 
mitted to  carry  more  than  two  or  three  stems. 
The  object  should  ba  to  select  only  that  number 
for  which  there  is  ample  space,  as  unless  the 
whole  of  the  progress  is  made  in  full  light  the 
results  can  never  be  fully  satisfactory.  To  this 
end  the  plants  ought  to  be  closely  watched  and 
the  superfluous  buds  that  start  rubbed  out  as 
SQOn  as  possible  ;  but  the  work  must  be  done  in 
stages  so  as  net  to  give  the  plants  a  check.  It  is 
really  astonishing  to  those  who  have  not  had 
recourse  to  this  treatment  what  splendid  results 
may  be  achieved  with  so  little  trouble.  The 
stems  carrying  the  blooms  will  be  long  and  strong, 
and  it  will  be  no  uncommon  thing  to  find  three 
and  occasionally  four  blooms  on  some  of  them, 
while  the  size,  substance  and  colour  will  be 
excellent.  Spenobe. 


Last  season  it  gave  only  three  first-class  certifi- 
cates. George  Stark,  a  new  waved  red  variety, 
obtained  one  ;  but  it  is  not  to  be  sent  out 
until  next  season.  Mrs.  Henry  Bell  obtained 
another,  this  being  a  cream  variety  shaded  with 
pink ;  it  was  introduced  by  Mr.  R.  Bolton  last 
year,  and  is  deservedly  popular.  Mrs.  A. 
Ireland,  the  subject  of  our  coloured  plate,  was 
the  other  favoured  variety  ;  it  is  a  charming 
waved  bieolor  raised  and  introduced  by  Messrs. 
Dobbie  and  Co.  of  Marks  Tey  and  Rothesay.  It 
has  been  officially  described  as  a  waved  Jeannie 
Gordon,  and  to  those  who  know  Jeannie  Gordon 
such  a  description  conveys  a  very  good  idea. 
For  all  kinds  of  decorative  work  Mrs.  A.  Ireland 
will  be  most  valuable.  Mrs.  A.  Ireland,  we 
venture  to  predict,  has  a  very  bright  future  in 
store  for  it,  and  we  greatly  admired  it  last  year, 
both  when  out  and  used  for  table  decoration  and 
also  as  seen  growing  in  Messrs.  Debbie's  nursery 
at  Marks  Tey.  During  the  present  summer 
this  Sweet  Pea  has  behaved  splendidly,  and  in 
many  gardens  has  given  an  abundance  of  its 
lovely  Apple-blossom-like  blooms  which  stand  up 
so  well  above  the  foliage.  Under  artificial  light 
the  flowers  are  very  pretty  indeed. 


876 


THE    CtARDEN. 


fJtTLY    31,  1>09. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 

SUMMER   TREATMENT    OF    PELARGONIUMS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— LawDS  are  very 
green  at  the  present  time  and  require 
mowing  every  week  ;  indeed,  in  some 
districts  where  the  soil  is  rich  and 
rather  retentive,  twice  each  week  will 
not  be  too  often  to  out  the  grass. 
The  best  lawns  are  those  on  which  the  mowing- 
machine  has  been  used  in  opposite  directions  each 
time.  I  know  that  some  users  of  the  machines 
take  them  in  the  same  direction  round  the 
lawn  every  time  the  grass  is  cut,  with  the  result 
that  the  surface  shows  a  gimped  appearance.  To 
avoid  this  and  secure  a  perfectly  even  surface,  do 
as  here  suggested,  namely,  mow  in  dififerent 
directions  each  time.  When  all  the  lawn  has  been 
mowed  that  can  be  reached  with  the  machine, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  use  the  edging-shears  and 
also  the  small  hand-shears  in  many  instances. 
Too  often  one  sees  long  grass  growing  just  under 
the  outer  branches  of  shrubs  and  also  near  walls 
and  fences  generally.  When  such  conditions 
obtain,  it  does  not  matter  how  well  the  remainder 
of  the  lawn  is  cut,  the  work  will  be  unfinished. 
Where  long  grass  is  found  growing  in  corners, 
under  trees  and  shrubs  and  over  the  grass 
edgings,  no  time  should  be  lost  in  getting  it  cut. 
Carnations  that  have  been  layered  in  the  open 
borders  must  be  examined,  and  if  the  new 
compost  has  become  dry,  water  should  be  given 
carefully  through  a  fine-rosed  watering-can. 
Very  often  the  fresh  compost  contains  many 
seeds  of  weeds,  and  seedlings  of  the  latter 
must  be  removed  while  they  are  quite  small. 
Every  effort  ought  to  be  made  to  get  the  layers 
well    rooted  before  the  cold,    winter    weather 


Venetable  Oarden. — Owing  to  the  frequent 
showers  of  rain  which  have  fallen  during  the 
summer  season  to  the  present  time,  watering  by 
means  of  hose  or  watering-can  has  not  been 
necessary,  except  in  the  case  of  newly  planted 


-A  PELAKliONinM  PLANT  AFTER  FLOWERING 
AND  IN  A  SUITABLE  CONDITION  TOR 
CUTTING   BACK. 


seedlings.  Vegetables  always  do  best  when  not 
watered  artificially,  when  the  soil  is  sufficiently 
moist  from  rain-water  ;  but  in  all  oases  the  hoe 
must  be  kept  at  work — never  allow  this  tool  to 
rust  for  want  of  using.  It  keeps  down  weeds 
and  creates  a  surface  mulch  of  dust,  and  in  the 
case  of  naturally  heavy  soils  it  prevents  the 
surface  caking  and  cracking.  At  this  season 
many  kinds  of  weeds  begin  to  mature  their 
seeds,  and  where  this  is  so  there  follows,  without 
fail,  a  great  crop  of  seedlings  in  the  autumn. 
Probably,  up  to  the  present  time,  circumstances 
have  prevailed  which  prevented  the  cultivator 
hoeing  down  the  young  weeds,  and  now  the  latter 
are  maturing.  Tackle  them  at  once  and  remove 
as  many  as  possible  to  the  fire-heap  in  some  odd 
corner  in  the  garden,  as  if  left  on  the  ground  the 
seeds  will  shed  there  and  germinate  in  due 
course.  Again,  many  cultivators  keep  down  all 
weeds  on  open  ground  between  the  rows  of 
vegetables,  but  forget  to  pull  out  those  growing 
in  the  rows.  The  latter  require  careful  seeking, 
as  they  run  up  among  the  Peas  and  Beans  and 
are  not  readily  seen.  When  weeds  are  destroyed 
while  in  a  young  state  the  cultivator  has  more 
time  to  devote  to  the  vegetable  crops.  As 
Potatoes,  Peas  and  Beans  are  gathered,  the 
ground  must  be  got  ready  for  the  planting  of 
Kale,  Broccoli  and  Savoys.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  deeply  dig  the  soil  nor  enrich  it  very 
much  with  manure,  as  the  plants  will  with- 
stand the  winter  weather  better  in  a  firm  soil 
of  medium  richness.  Light  ground  occupied 
by  Potatoes  will  be  all  the  better  for  a  good 
treading  down  before  any  winter  greens  are 
planted  in  it. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  summer  pruning  of  fruit 
trees  should  be  done  without  fail  every  year. 
The  value  of  this  operation  is  as  yet  only 
realised  by  a  few  cultivators  of  hardy  fruits. 
Trees  bristling  with  fruit-buds  are  a  joy  to  the 
enthusiast.  By  judicious  summer  pruning  strong- 
growing  Apple  and  Pear  trees  can  be  brought 
into  a  fruitful  state  in  the  course  of  two  years, 
especially  if  root-pruning  be  done  also  in  the 
autumn.  The  side  shoots  must  be  out  off  about 
4  inches  from  their  base.  Leading  shoots  ought 
not  to  be  touched  in  the  summer-time.  The 
result  of  the  cutting  back  of  other  shoots  will  be 
to  admit  light  and  air  to  the  buds  and  remain- 
ing portions  of  those  shoots.  Fruit-buds  will 
plump  up,  and  the  winter  pruning  will  mean  the 
cutting  hard  back  of  the  remaining  portions  of 
the  shortened  shoots  and  also  the  shortening  of 
the  leaders.  At  the  present  time  small  new 
growths  will  appear  at  the  ends  of  the  summer- 
pruned  shoots,  and  these  must  be  removed  as 
soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to  handle. 

Greenliouse  and  Frames.  — Very  few  green- 
houses are  artificially  heated  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  and  those  structures  situated  on  high 
ground  and  facing  due  south  rarely  contain 
stagnant  moisture,  but  many  greenhouses  in  other 
positions  do.  More  work  is  necessary  to  maintain 
a  fine  display  of  flowers  in  the  latter  kind  of 
greenhouse  on  account  of  the  damping  off  of  the 
blooms.  The  central  portion  of  each  truss 
of  Zonal  Pelargoniums  is  the  first  to  fail  ; 
consequently  the  fading  blossoms  must  be 
removed  before  they  contaminate  the  others. 
Another  good  help  to  the  lasting  properties 
of  these  flowers  is  to  wipe  up  all  pools  of 
water  lying  on  tiled  floors.  Calceolarias  and 
Cinerarias  in  frames  may  be  fully  exposed 
at  night  when  the  weather  is  calm,  the  lights 
being  replaced  early  in  the  morning,  so  that 
the  plants  can  be  shaded  from  very  bright 
sunshine.  B. 


SHOW,  FANCY  AND  REGAL  PELAR- 
GONIUMS. 
How  TO  Treat  the  Old  Plants. 
These  Pelargoniums  are  very  showy,  free- 
flowering  plants  in  late  spring  and  early  summer. 
The  culture  of  these  plants,  however,  is  but 
little  understood,  for  not  seldom  they  are  seen 
in  a  much  neglected  condition  and  suffering  from 
the  attacks  of  insect  pests.  These  showy  Pelar- 
goniums were  far  more  popular  years  ago  than 
they  are  to  day,  and  were  freely  cultivated  in 
consequence.  Huge  specimen  plants  used  to  be 
exhibited  at  the  great  shows  in  the  early  summer, 
and  these  seldom  failed  to  gain  admirers.  At 
that  time  these  subjects  were  also  largely  grown 
for  market  purposes,  and  they  are  still  cultivated 
on  a  large  scale  for  supplying  plants  for  window 
decoration  in  the  late  spring  and  early  summer. 


2.  — THE   SAME   plant  AFTER  THE  SHOOTS  HAVE 
BEEN  CUT  BACK. 

The  Show,  Fancy  and  Regal  Pelargoniums  d  iffer 
widely  from  the  Zonal  Pelargoniums  (Geraniums) 
both  in  foliage  and  flowers,  and  need  entirely 
different  treatment.  This  fact  should  be  borne 
in  mind  by  the  grower  who  desires  to  succeed  in 
the  cultivation  of  the  plants.  The  present  is  an 
excellent  period  to  take  in  hand  the  old  stools  of 
these  plants  if  any  success  is  to  attend  our  efl^orts 
another  season.  They  will  be  past  flowering  in 
the  majority  of  cases,  and  will  need  treatment  to 
fit  them  for  flowering  satisfactorily  another  year. 
In  achieving  this  the  grower  will  provide  himself 
with  a  plentiful  supply  of  useful  shoots,  from 
which  cuttings  of  a  suitable  kind  can  be  obtained 
for  perpetuating  the  difi"erent  varieties.  Those 
who  have  plants  that  have  gone  out  of  flower 
should  forthwith  stand  them  outdoors  in  a  nice 
sunny  position,  so  that  the  stems  of  the  plants 
may  become  thoroughly  ripened.  To  assist  in 
this  matter  it  is  well  to  withhold  water,  doing 
this  gradually,  so  that  the  plants  will  not  suffer 
by  so  doing.  In  a  little  while  the  foliage  will 
gradually  lose  colour  and  then  fall  off.  When 
standing  the  plants  outdoors,  they  should  be 
arranged  on  a  bed  of  sifted  ashes  to  prevent  the 
ingress  of  worms  in  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pot. 

Fig.  1  serves  to  illustrate  a  plant  that  was  pur- 
chased from  the  florist  when  it  was  coming  into 


July  31,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


377 


3. — SHOOTS  OBTAINED  FROM  THE  OLD  PLANTS  WHEN  CUTTING 
BACK  THE  GROWTHS.  THAT  ON  THE  LEFT  IS  A  PORTION 
OF  GRPWTH  JaST  AS  DETACHED,  AND  THAT  ON  THE  RIGHT 
A  SIMILAR   GROWTH   PREPARED   AS   A  CDTTING. 


flower,  and  after  a  season's  blossoming  is  now 
ready  to  be  dealt  with  in  the  manner  indicated 
above.  The  process  of  cutting  back  such  plants 
will  then  need  immediate  attention  if  success  is 
to  attend  our  efforts.  The  plants  should  be  out 
back  to  the  second  or  third  eye  ;  some  growers 
cut  back  less  hard,  while  others  are  disposed  to 
shorten  back  the  growths  even  more  severely. 
An  "  eye"  may  be  described  as  that  part  of  the 
stem  where  a  leaf  did,  or  does,  adhere  to  it,  from 
the  axil  of  which  new  growth  is  made,  and  from 
this  and  other  new  growths  the  future  plant  is 
built  up.  When  the  cutting  back  of  the  plant  is 
completed  it  should  be  as  represented  in  Fig.  2. 
This  is  the  same  plant  as  shown  in  Fig.  1,  and 
clearly  indicates  how  the  pruning  should  be  done. 
Had  this  plant  been  out  back  more  severely  last 
season,  it  would  have  been  more  shapely  in 
appearance  on  the  present  occasion. 

Immediately  subsequent  to  the  pruning  or 
cutting  back  stand  the  old  plants  in  a  pit  or 
frame,  keeping  them  rather  dry  for  a  few  days, 
taking  care,  however,  to  syringe  them  overhead 
with  clear  water  every  day,  so  as  to  moisten  the 
old  wood  and  to  encourage  the  development  of 
new  growth.  In  a  little  while  new  shoots  will 
be  visible  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  and  to  pro- 
mote their  well-being  water  should  be  applied  to 
the  roots,  but  not  too  often  at  first.  Moisten  the 
soil  throughout  at  each  application  of  water, 
however.  When  the  new  growths  are  half  an 
inch  or  so  in  length,  turn  out  the  plants  from  their 
present  pots  and  reduce  the  ball  of  soil  round 
about  their  roots,  so  as  to  enable  the  plants  to  be 
repotted  into  pots  a  size  or  two  smaller  than  they 
formerly  occupied.  Repot  in  a  compost  made  up 
of  two  parts  loam,  one  part  leaf-mould  and  a 
quarter  of  a  part  of  coarse  silver  sand.  Pot  rather 
lightly.  Subsequently  observe  the  greatest  care 
when  watering,  giving  just  a  little  in  the  first 
instance  to  settle  the  soil  ;  afterwards,  for  some 
time,  just  sprinkle  the  plants  overhead.  Err  on 
the  dry  side  and  thus  maintain  the  plants  in 
health.  Keep  the  plants  in  a  cool  and  airy  glass 
structure,  potting  them  in  their  flowering  pots 
when  the  new  shoots  are  about  3  inches  in  length. 
Should  green  fly  make  its  appearance,  lose  no  time 
in  fumigating  ;  when  dealt  with  promptly  the 
plants  may  be  kept  free  from  this  pest. 

Fig.  3  represents,  on  the  left,  an  example  of 
the  shoots  that  were  acquired  when  the  plants 
were  out  back  ;  on  the  right  is  a  cutting  prepared 
from  such  material.  To  make  a  cutting  it  is 
necessary  to  trim  o£f  the  lower  leaves  of  a  shoot 
and  then  to  cut  through  the  stem  with  a  sharp 
knife  immediately  below  a  joint.  Insert  the 
onttings  singly  in  2i-inoh  pots,  using  soil  similar 
to  that  described  ab*ve.     Place  a  layer  of  sand 


on  the  surface,  inserting  the 
small  dibber  in  this,  thus 
carrying  a  small  quantity  of 
sand  to  the  bottom  of  the 
hole,  on  which  the  cutting 
should  rest.  Press  the  soil 
firmly  at  the  base  of  each 
cutting,  as  this  is  a  very 
important,  though  an  appa- 
rently insignificant,  detail. 
Stand  the  pots  in  a  cold 
frame,  pot  to  pot,  until 
rooted,  watering  in  the  cut- 
tings in  the  first  instance 
and  simply  sprinkling  them 
overhead  subsequently  from 
time  to  time.  Ultimately 
these  cuttings  should  be  re- 
presented by  nicely  rooted 
plants,  as  portrayed  in  Fig.  4, 
When  so  well  rooted  they 
are  in  a  fit  condition  to 
appreciate  a  shift  into  a  pot 
of  larger  size.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  glass  structure 
may  fall  to  40°  or  45°  by 
the  end  of  October,  and 
should  be  kept  at  about  this 
figure  until  the  end  of 
January.  From  that  time  the  temperature 
should  be  increased  gradually,  until  on  a  warm, 
sunny  day  60°  to  65°  may  be  reached.  When 
watering  at  this  period  never  wet  the  foliage, 
and  water  with  the  greatest  care.  Water  only 
when  the  soil  is  dry,  and  then  give  sufiioient  to 
moisten  the  soil  throughout.  D.  B.  C. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Gaps  in  Flower-beds. — Even  when  the  greatest 
care  is  taken  of  all  plants  newly  put  out  in 
flower-borders,  there  will  be  a  few  gaps  in  some 
gardens  owing  to  odd  plants  dying  or  getting 
broken  off.  The  amateur  who  has  wisely  retained 
a  few  plants  of  each  kind  bedded  out  will  be 
prepared  for  any  of  the  mishaps  referred  to, 
and  no  time  must  be  lost  in  removing  the  un- 
satisfactory specimens  and  putting  in  the  reserve 
plants.  As  the  other  plants  are  already 
established,  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  a 
watch  upon  those  recently  planted,  as  if  the 
weather  proves  dry  and  sunny  water  must 
be  given.  It  will  not  take  the  plants  long, 
however,  to  become  well  rooted  in  their  new 
quarters. 

Zonal  Pelargoniums  for  Winter  Flower- 
ing.— While  attending  to  the  requirements  of 
summer-flowering  subjects,  the  town  gardener 
must  not  neglect  to  provide  for  the  autumn  and 
winter  display  of  blossom  in  the  greenhouse  and 
conservatory.  There  are  few  subjects  that  prove 
more  satisfactory  than  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  both 
the  double  and  single  flowered  sections.  The 
main  essentials  to  success  are  early  rooting  of 
plants  and  the  building  up  of  fine  bushy  speci- 
mens before  the  autumn  days  come.  Cuttings 
which  were  inserted  in  March  last  are  now  far 
enough  advanced  to  be  potted  finally.  The 
pots  must  not  be  too  large,  as  it  is  advisable  to 
get  them  well  filled  with  roots  as  soon  as  possible 
so  that  feeding  can  be  done.  The  following  is  a 
suitable  compost  to  use  for  the  final  pot- 
ting :  Fibrous  loam,  two  parts  ;  leaf -soil,  one 
part  ;  rotted  manure,  sand  or  road  drift,  one 
part.  Pots  6  inches  in  diameter  are  quite  large 
enough.  Do  not  press  down  the  soil  too  firmly 
in  the  pots,  as  the  constant  watering  tends  to 
make  it  firm,  too.  Good  drainage  is  essential. 
After  the  potting  is  finished,  place  the  plants 
in  the  warmest  position  in  the  garden  on  boards 
or  ashes.  The  exposure  to  the  sunshine  and  air 
will  ripen  the  wood.  There  will  be  nothing 
more  to  do  to  the  plants  until  the  time  comes 
for  placing  them  under  the  protection  of  glass, 
except  the  removal  regularly  of  all  flower-stems. 


These  must  be  pinched  off  when  they  are  small 
as  late  as  the  end  of  August. 

CHRySANTHEMUMS  IN  PoTs. — Nearly  all  town 
gardeners  like  to  have  a  few  pots  of  Chrysanthe- 
mums both  for  early  and  late  flowering.  The 
compost  in  which  the  plants  are  grown  is,  as  a 
rule,  rather  poor,  and  if  they  are  not  fed 
judiciously  only  very  small  specimens  will  be 
available  when  the  time  comes  for  putting  them 
indoors.  These  plants  need  sunshine  and  plenty 
of  air,  and  so  they  must  be  kept  in  open  quarters 
throughout  the  summer  months.  Give  weak 
doses  of  soot-water  twice  each  week  and  one 
of  some  approved  artificial  manure.  At  the  end 
of  a  fortnight  give  liquid  manure  twice  and 
artificials  once  each  week.  Of  course,  clear 
water  should  be  given  between  the  doses  of 
manure  ;  and  if  the  weather  proves  rainy  during 
a  prolonged  period,  when  it  is  not  possible  to 
apply  liquid  manure  frequently,  sprinkle  artificial 
manure  on  the  soil  in  the  pots.  This  will  prove 
more  benefieial  than  when  diluted  first. 

Sweet  Peas. — The  plants  are  now  getting 
past  their  best  condition  in  many  instances  where 
the  soil  is  shallow  ;  but  if  rich  mulchings  are  put 
on  and  the  plants  are  well  fed,  fresh  shoots  will 
grow,  especially  when  the  flowers  are  gathered 
regularly  every  day.  Large  clumps  or  long  rows 
of  Sweet  Peas  in  full  bloom  look  charming 
indeed,  and  amateurs  who  prefer  to  see  them  so 
and  are  quite  satisfied  do  not  expect  the  display 
to  be  very  prolonged  and  are  not  disappointed  ; 
but  others  who  expect  a  lengthened  flowering 
period  from  the  same  plants  must  not  hesitate 
to  cut  all  flowers  directly  they  are  developed. 

Staking  Plants. — A  month  ago  the  town 
gardener  may  have  staked  all  the  plants  very 
neatly  in  the  borders,  but  notwithstanding  this 
fact  a  number  of  subjects  will  require  attention 
again  at  the  present  time.  Many  kinds  of 
herbaceous  plants  make  very  quick  growth,  and 
unless  the  straggling  shoots  are  nicely  supported 
in  such  a  way  as  to  leave  each  sort  in  its  natural 
form,  the  garden,  especially  that  part  of  it 
devoted  to  these  border  plants,  will  present 
a  very  untidy  appearance.  I  lately  saw  a  garden 
in  which  herbaceous  plants  formed  the  chief 
feature,  and  as  they  were  well  cared  for 
the  garden  looked  extremely  neat.  It  was  a 
front  garden  in  a  town.  Avon. 


4. — a  young  plant  obtained  FROM  A  CCTTING 
SIMILAR  TO  THOSE  SHOWN   IN  FIG.   3. 


378 


THE     GARDEN. 


(July  31,  IBOS 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Department. 

VINES.— Keep  the  foliage  of  Vines 
from  which  the  fruits  have  been  cut 
well  syringed  at  intervals,  and  should 
red  spider  be  troublesome,  use  a 
mixture  of  soap-suds  and  sulphur, 
or  some  other  approved  insecticide, 
till  the  leaves  have  been  thoroughly  cleansed. 
Ventilate  freely  night  and  day,  and  if  the 
growth  is  very  strong  a  little  fire-heat  applied 
will  greatly  assist  the  ripening  of  the  wood.  Do 
not  neglect  the  roots,  especially  those  growing 
inside,  and  should  they  require  water,  give  it 
freely,  with  the  addition  of  an  occasional  deluge 
of  liquid  manure. 

Late  drapes. — Keep  these  growing  steadily 
and  the  atmosphere  moist  during  bright, 
Runny  weather.  Gros  Colmar  needs  a  long  time 
to  finish,  and  to  improve  the  flavour  and  tender- 
ness of  the  skin  requires  more  warmth  and 
moisture  than  ia  usually  afforded  it  ;  the  atmo- 
spheric moisture  must,  however,  be  gradually 
diminished  as  ripeness  proceeds.  Remove 
lateral  growths  as  they  appear  and  endeavour,  as 
far  as  possible,  to  maintain  the  older  foliage  in  a 
robust  state. 

Peach  Trees. — Those  which  have  been  cleared 
of  their  crops  and  which  have  borne  heavily 
must  not  be  neglected.  If  the  borders  are  in 
need  of  moisture,  thoroughly  soak  them  with 
clear  water  and  liquid  manure  alternately,  so 
that  every  particle  of  the  soil  and  roots  is 
reached.  Keep  the  foliage  well  syringed  and 
free  from  red  spider,  and  thus  encourage  it  to 
remain  on  the  trees  as  long  as  possible.  Some  of 
the  shoots  which  will  not  be  wanted  for  next 
year  may  be  out  out  to  give  light  and  air  a 
chance  to  circulate  freely  all  over  the  trees. 

Melons. — Plants  growing  in  ordinary  hot-beds 
"require  every  care  and  attention,  keeping  the 
foliage  clean  and  the  growths  well  thinned,  and 
those  bearing  fruits  stopped  to  encourage  them 
to  swell  as  rapidly  as  possible.  Close  early  in 
the  afternoon  on  bright  days  and  husband 
ample  moisture  and  heat.  Fruits  approaching 
maturity  should  be  elevated  well  above  th» 
leaves  to  receive  light  and  sunshine  to  encourage 
good  flavour  and  colour,  and  the  roots  must  be 
kept  on  the  dry  side. 

Kitchen  Garden. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  in  houses  and  frames  will 
need  much  attention,  thinning,  stopping  and 
regulating  of  the  shoots  being  essential  items  to 
maintain  a  long  and  continuous  supply  of  fruits. 
Top-dress  frequently  with  a  sweet,  lumpy  com- 
post, and  water  freely  in  hot  weather.  Sow 
more  seed  for  a  late  crop  of  a  medium-sized  and 
prolific  variety. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 
Caladiums.  —  Keep  these  well  supplied  with 
moisture  as  long  as  they  remain  healthy  and 
vigorous  ;  but  so  soon  as  their  beauty  begins  to 
fade,  gradually  reduce  the  water  so  as  to  partly 
dry  them  off,  but  do  not  stand  the  pots  in  too 
oool  a  position,  otherwise  the  bulbs  will  rot, 
more  especially  the  smaller  kinds. 

Qardenias  will  be  growing  freely,  and  some  of 
the  plants  may  require  a  larger  pot.  A  little 
fresh,  sweet  soil  will  do  much  to  maintain  the 
leaves  healthy  and  encourage  the  formation  of 
strong  buds. 

Calceolarias. — Prick  these  off  as  they  become 
large  enough,  and  repot  those  which  have  been 
prioked  off  and  potted  at  an  earlier  date. 
H.  Mabkham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  OmnUnt,  Bamtt. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 

MIDLANDS. 

Plant    Houses. 

Carnations. — The  Malmaissn  section,  as  well  as 
others  usually  grown  in  company  with  them,  are 
now  getting  past  their  best ;  aooordingly,  thought 
must  be  directed  to  next  year's  supply  of  plants. 
Layering  is  the  most  oonvenient  and  sure  method 
of  doing  this.  Well  prepare  a  piece  of  ground 
the  size  of  an  ordinary  garden  frame  by  incorpo- 
rating leaf-mould  and  sand  to  give  it  the  proper 
degree  of  texture.  Select  plants  best  suited  for 
the  purpose  (those  having  side  growths  of  con- 
siderable length  are  best),  and  after  removing 
the  pot  plunge  the  ball  of  roots  rather  deeply 
and  in  such  a  manner  that  the  shoots  are  easily 
brought  to  the  soil  all  round.  Clean  the  stems 
of  foliage  to  several  inches  of  their  length,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  make  an  upward  out  through 
a  joint  and  about  halfway  through  the  stem. 
Fix  firmly  in  the  soil  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
slit  or  tongue  is  kept  slightly  open,  which  will 
facilitate  the  emission  of  roots. 

Specimen  Plants. — Some  of  the  most  robust 
and  healthy  of  the  plants  now  flowering  may 
with  much  advantage  be  grown  another  year, 
handsome  decorative  subjects  and  quantities  of 
bloom  being  thus  produced.  If  in  6-inch  pots  at 
present,  others  considerably  larger  may  be 
employed,  using  a  rich  loamy  compost  for 
potting  :  previous  to  doing  this,  clean  thoroughly 
and  immerse  the  roots  for  a  time  in  a  vessel  of 
water  should  dryness  be  suspected.  Pot  firmly, 
stake  prominent  growths,  and  place  in  any 
convenient  position  where  protection  from  heavy 
rains  can  be  given. 

Kitchex  Garden. 
Late  Peas. — Though  too  late  to  sow  seed  out- 
side with  any  prospect  of  success,  some  of  the 
very  dwarf  varieties  might  profitably  be  tried  in 
pits  or  frames  until  lately  occupied  with  Turnips, 
Potatoes  and  Beans.  Prepare  the  soil  well  and 
draw  the  drills  rather  further  apart  than 
the  plants  may  be  expected  to  grow  in  height. 
Soak  the  seed  in  water  previous  to  sowing  to 
assist  and  hasten  germination. 

DwarJ  Beans  may  be  treated  in  a  similar  way 
but,  being  quicker  in  arriving  at  maturity  than 
the  former,  suceessional  sowings  until  August 
are  advisable  rather  than  too  many  at  one  time. 
Celery. — The  earliest-planted  may  now  be 
cleared  of  side  shoots,  be  well  watered  if  neces- 
sary, and  have  a  little  soil  drawn  around  the 
stems.  Soot  or  lime  used  in  moderation  tends 
to  keep  away  slugs  and  worms.  If  for  exhibi- 
tion, paper  collars  should  be  used  to  encircle  the 
stems  before  the  soil  is  added. 

Turnips. — More  seed  should  be  sown  to  pro- 
vide bulbs  for  winter  u«e.  As  the  Turnip  fly  is 
troublesome  this  year,  frequent  dustings  of  the 
young  plants  with  burnt  ash  when  damp  is  an 
almost  sure  preventive  of  attack. 

Mushroom-heds. — Collect  material  for  forming 
these  and  place  it  under  cover,  such  as  an  open 
shed,  where  it  may  be  turned  occasionally  until 
sufficient  is  got  together  to  make  up  a  bed. 
Avoid  excess  of  heat  and  over-drynesa  ;  on  the 
other  hand,  material  frequently  soaked  with  rain 
cannot  prove  aatisfaetory.  Manure  of  hard- 
fed  horses  is  by  far  the  best,  and  for  making 
beds  under  cover  most  of  the  litter  may  be 
removed,  but  for  beds  in  the  open  this  is  not  so 
important ;  furthermore,  it  is  often  difficult  to 
get  sufficient  bulk  in  a  reasonable  time  for  the 
latter  purpose  unless  the  litter  is  retained.  Under 
cover  a  bed  from  1.5  inches  to  18  inches  in  depth  ia 
ample,  increasing  this,  however,  as  time  goes  on 
to  maintain  the  necessary  heat  as  the  days 
shorten.  Fresh  spawn  only  should  be  used,  and 
each  brick  may  be  broken  into  eight  pieces,  these 
being  inserted  when  the  heat  of  the  bed  ia  about 
80°  and  shows  signs  of  declining. 
Jakes  Dat. 
(Gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.) 
Q<Mc'may  Heme,  GhrHtttan,  Wigtevmahire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 


SPIR.EA  Veitchii. — A  shrubby  species  from 
China  with  long,  arching  branches  studded  with 
large  axillary  clusters  of  creamy  white  flowers. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  V»itch  and  Sons,  Limited, 
Chelsea.     Award  of  merit. 

Eremurus  Sir  Michael. — One  of  the  bronze  and 
yellow  seedlings  from  E.  Shelford,  which  in  turn 
was  a  cross  between  E.  01g%  and  E.  Bungei.  In 
the  present  novelty  there  is  a  delightful  rose- 
coloured  aufiiiaion  which  in  aunlight,  mingling 
with  the  yellow  and  bronze,  is  seen  to  great 
advantage.  All  these  hybrids  are  of  the  highest 
garden  value,  aa  much  by  reason  of  their  late- 
flowering  as  their  novel  and  exquisite  colouring. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  R.  W.  Wallace  and  Co. ,  Col- 
chester.    Award  of  merit. 

Nymphcea  mooreana. — A  greatly  improved 
N.  chromatella  with  flowers  of  a  deeper  yellow 
colour  and  of  greater  substance.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy  and  has  plain  green  leafage,  thus  render- 
ing it  quite  distinct.  Shown  by  Leopold  de 
Rothschild,  Esq.,  Gunnersbury  House.  Award 
of  merit. 

Rose  Juliet  (Hybrid  Briar).— A  perfectly 
unique  novelty,  and  said  to  be  the  result  of  a 
cross  between  the  yellow  Briar  and  a  Hybrid 
Perpetual.  In  the  youthful  stage  the  petals 
reveal  a  golden  reverse  and,  then  recurving,  are 
heavily  bordered  and  suffused  with  a  clear  and 
exquisite  shade  of  salmon  rose  that  is  fascinating 
to  a  remarkable  degree.  The  older  flowers  are  of 
a  paler  hue  with  more  of  the  pink  shade,  but  one 
and  all  are  inexpressibly  charming  and  pleasing. 
Of  great  size  and  fulness,  the  variety  is  remark- 
able alike  for  its  powerful  fragrance  and  leather- 
like leafage  ;  indeed,  its  like  has  never  been 
seen  before.  Shown  by  Messrs.  William  Paul 
and  Son,  Waltham  Cross.     Award  of  merit. 

Delphinium  Nulli  Secundus. — This  exceptional 
novelty  haa  nearly  pure  white  flowera  and  a  large 
and  conapieuous  black  eye.  The  individual 
flowers  are  large  and  the  spike  well  formed. 
Shown  by  G.  Ferguson,  Esq.,  Weybridge. 
Award  of  merit. 

Sweet  Pea  Edna  Unwin. — A  very  beautiful 
orange  flower,  which  may  well  be  described  as  a 
waved  Evelyn  Byatt.  It  is  said  to  be  quite  fixed 
and  does  not  burn  in  the  sun.  Shown  by  Mr. 
W.  .J.  Unwin,  Histon.Cambridgeahire.  Award  of 
merit. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  20th  inst. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


TO 


ROLES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— ?%«  Editor  intends 
to  make  Thb  Qabdbb  }ulpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  wiU  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Bditoe  of  IHU 
QARDEH,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  he  sffnt  to  the  PTBUaHEE. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  »n  the 
fiaper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  tent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 

FLOWER  GA  RDEN. 
Judgrlngr  Sweet  Peas  (C.  H.  S.).— 
The  majority  of  judges  of  Sweet  Peas  follow 
the  "Code  of  Judging"  of  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society.  Herein  we  find  it  laid  down  as 
follows :  "  Sweet  Peas  should  be  shown  in  lightly 
arranged  bunches  to  display  the  individuality  of 
the  flowers.  Stem  long  and  stout,  carrying  three 
or  more  blooms ;  standard  erect  or  gracefully 
hooded  ;  wings  closely  snolosing  the  keel ;   free 


July  31,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


379 


from  spotting  or  scorching.  Points  6  :  Form 
and  Bubatanca,  2;  colour  and  freshness,  2; 
attractive  setting  up,  2."  There  must  neces- 
sarily be  variations  from  this,  but  it  is  a  sound 
basis  on  which  to  proceed. 

Delphiniums  going  wrong  (P.).-H,  as  you  say, 
the  plants  were  all  right  at  one  time,  there  is  Bomethmg 
wron"  with  your  method  of  growing  them,  but  we  are 
unable  to  divine  the  cause  owing  to  the  meagre  informa- 
tion vou  supply.  If  you  will  tell  us  how  long  the  plants 
have' been  planted  and  the  class  of  soil  m  which  they  are 
growing— that  is.  light  or  heavy,  clay  or  sand— we  may  be 
able  to  give  you  all  the  assistance  you  need.  The  clumps  may 
require  division  or  the  crowns  may  have  been  eaten  by 
slugs,  or  many  other  things  may  be  against  them  that  we 
know  not  of.  What  U  the  depth  of  the  soil  and  how  is  it 
for  drainage  ? 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Vegetable  Mappow  plants  not  fpultlng 

(Jfanwc).— Vegetable  Marrows  do  best  when  left  to  grow 
unrestrained  and  in  a  natural  way.  We  have  no  doubt  that 
if  you  will  exercise  patience  for  a  while  longer  you  will  be 
rewarded  with  abundant  crops.  The  recent  heavy  rains 
we  have  had  have  encouraged  over-abundant  growth  of 
foliage,  to  the  detriment  of  the  fertility  of  the  plants ;  but 
this  will  be  corrected  once  we  have  drier  and  warmer 
weather.  Anyway,  no  good  can  be  done  by  cutting  or 
restraining  the  plant's  growth.  ..  ,_     ,,      „     • 

CauUflowePS  and  Bpocooll  (E.  .4.).— Having 
planted  Autumn  Giant  Cauliflowers,  we  advise  yet  a  second 
planting  of  the  same  variety  if  you  have  later  plants,  as 
you  may  then,  with  an  open  autumn,  have  heads  to  cut  up 
till  Christmas.  There  is  no  better  successional  variety  than 
Veitch's  Self-Protecting.  Following  this  should  come 
Christmas  White  and  Sno»'s  Winter  White,  then  the 
varieties  you  name.  Early  Penzance,  Knight  s  Protecting, 
Covent  Garden  White,  Wilcox's  Late  and  Late  Queen. 
Other  good  Broccoli  are  Model  and  Methven's  June,  but  it 
is  not  oossible  to  say  just  when  these  varieties  will  head 
in  as  so  much  depends  on  the  weather.  With  a  fairly  mild 
winter  good  white  heads  from  a  large  planting  of  varieties 
may  be  had  for  several  months ;  but  if  the  winter  be  hard, 
plants  ma»be  killed  wholesale,  or,  in  any  case,  kept  from 
heading  in  until  so  late  as  March.  The  latest  varieties 
should  head  in  during  May  and  even  into  June. 

Summep  ppunlng  copdon  Apple  tpees 
(IT.  S  C.).— Scarcely  any  two  practitioners  agree  as  to  the 
best  system  of  summer  pruning  these  trees,  neither  do 
they  agree  as  to  the  primary  object  aimed  at  in  the  pro- 
cess. Some  contend  that  it  is  possible  to  convert  the  basal 
buds  of  the  shoots  cut  back  from  wood-buds  to  fruit-buds. 
This  in  our  opinion  is  a  fallacy ;  it  does  nothing  of  the  sort. 
What  it  no  doubt  does  Is  to  strengthen  and  swell  up  the 
latent  fruit-buds  which  lie  at  the  base  of  the  shoots, 
and  which  were  formed  the  previous  year.  The  end  of 
July  is  a  good  time  to  cut  back  these  side  shoots,  and  in 
our  opinion  it  is  best  to  cut  them  back  to  within  five  leaves 
or  buds  of  their  base,  and  to  cut  the  same  shoots  back  in 
winter  to  within  two  buds  of  their  base.  If  they  are  cut 
earlier  than  this  there  is  a  danger  of  the  lower  buds  being 
forced  into  growth,  a  growth  which  could  not  possibly 
mature  this  year,  and  consequently  would  be  of  no  use  for 
fruit  bearing.    By  the  end  of  July  this  danger  will  have 


SOCIETIES. 


Names  of  plants  — *f.  Powell.— I,  Rhododendron 
ferrugineum  (Rose  des  Alpes) ;  2,  Helichrysum  rosmarlni- 
folinm  (Snow  In  Summer).    The  Rose  petals  had  dropped. 

it  E.,   Voytigern.—l,   Funkla,  probably  subcordata ; 

2, 12, 13  and  14,  labels  loose  in  box ;  3,  probably  Rosa  centi 
folia,  petals  had  dropped;  4,  Cistus  villosus  ■  "  "•— '— 
ovata ;  6,  .Spiraea  Uimaria  flore-pleno  ; 


6,  Funkia 

Rosa  multlflora 

variety,  petals  had  dropped  ;  8,  Rose  petals  had  dropped  ; 
9,  better  specimen  required  ;  10,  Spiriea  Aruncus  ;  11,  S. 
palmata ;  15,  Veronica  species  ;  le,  Calluna  vulgaris  ;  17, 
Eteagnus  mnltiflora ;  18,  Berberis  japonica ;  19,  Elseagaus 

pungens  variety  ;  20,  E.  pnngens. J.  Kirkwood.—B.oaa, 

moschata. Miss  B.- Abel    Carrlfere. T.  S— 1,   Dr. 

Grill  •    2,    General    Gallleni. A.    E.    JJ  — Myrlanthes 

Renoncule. Rharratt.^The  variety  is  Rosa  microphylla 

rubra    It  is  a  native  of  the  Himalayan  mountains  and  also 

of  China. A.  ITnrren  J/cJAuisA.— Helianthemnm  vulgare 

(yellow)  and  Polygala  vulgaris  (blue). John  Young.— 

Lilium  Martagon   album    and   Senecio  Smlthii;   cannot 

i.ientlfy  Rose. A.  H.  B.  — Antennaria  dioica. A.  L. 

Ford  — Meliiotus  officinalis  and  Corydalis  lutea. Miss 

K.  Boss.- Periploca  grseca. G.  R.  Stout.— 1,  Sparmannia 

africana ;  2,  Sidaicea  Candida  ;  3,  Artemisia  aurotanum ; 
4  Nepeta  Mussinil ;  5,  Lysimachia  vulgaris  ;  6,  Lythrum 
Salicaria :  7,  Lychnis  Githago ;  8,  Lycopsis  arvenslB ;  9, 

Stellaria  graminea ;  10,  Achillea  Milleiolium. A.  M.  B.— 

Souvenir  de  L,  Viennot. Bcicfc;/. —Bourbon  Rose  Mrs. 

Paul. Chloe.—Xbe  pale  pink  variety  is  Tea  Rambler ;  the 

crimson  is  Crimson  Rambler ;  and  the  deep  pink  is  Mrs. 

F.    W.  Flight. J.  H.  C.--1,  Iris  xiphioides  (English 

Iris) ;  2,  too  far  goue  to  recognise  ;  3,  Iris  sambuciaa ;  4, 
Campanula  persicifolia  alba  ;  .i,  0.  carpatica ;  6,  Crepls 
sibirica ;  7,  Lysimachia  punctata ;  s,  Scutellaria  altisslma ; 
0,  Calamintha    grandiflora ;    10,   Brodiaea  congesta ;    11, 

Sidaicea  malvseBora. P.   '/.. 1,  Certainly  not  Dean 

Hole,  possibly  Alice  Grahame ;  2,  probably  Francois  Crousse, 
bat  flowers  damaged  ;  3,  Sweetheart ;  4,  St.  George ;  5, 
Victor  Hugo ;  6,  flowers  needed  for  identiflcation  ;  7, 
Cerastium  tomentosum ;  8,  Alyssum  maritimum.  We  have 
named  the  Roses  to  the  best  of  our  ability.  We  cannot  be 
certain,  especially  when  rather  overblown  blooms  are  sent. 
If  you  send  any  more,  kindly  attach  a  fairly  long  piece  of  the 
growths.  We  advise  you  to  send  blooms  to  the  grower 
and  ask  him  to  replace  with  correct  kinds  in  autumn. 


ROifAL  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 
The  fortnightly  meeting  held  on  July  20  was  one  of  the 
finest  of  the  season.  Hardy  flowering  plants  were 
numerous  and  good  ;  Orchids,  if  not  numerous,  were  of 
a  select  character ;  while  the  Roses  from  Waltham 
Cross,  the  superb  Carnations  from  Shenley,  the  rich 
collection  of  Tomatoes  from  Reading  and  the  unique 
collections  of  fruiting  trees  in  pots,  vegetables,  salads  and 
flowering  plants  from  Chelsea,  rendered  the  exhibition 
one  of  the  most  representative  and  instructive  that  could 
well  be  imagined. 

Orchid  Committee. 

Present:  Mr.  Harry  J.  Veltoh  ichairman),  Messrs. 
James  O'Brien,  de  B.  Crawshay.  W.  Boxall,  Gumey 
Wilson,  G.  F.  Moore,  A-  Sander,  W.  Bolton,  F.  Menteith 
Ogilvie,  J.  Forster  Acock,  Walter  Cobb,  J.  Cypher,  Charles 
H.  Curtis.  W.  H.  Hatcher,  H.  G.  Alexander,  J.  C!harles- 
worth,  Arthur  Dye,  H.  Ballantine,  H.  A.  Tracey,  W.  H. 
White,  A.  A.  McBean,  R.  G.  Thwaites  and  Sir  Jeremiah 
Colman. 

Messrs.  F.  Sander  and  Son,  St.  Albans,  brought  many 
interesting  and  beautiful  kinds,  notably  Odontoglossum 
ardentlssima  Starlight,  whose  flowers  were  thickly  spotted 
with  violet  on  a  pale  mauve  suffused  ground.  Cypri- 
pedium  Lady  Derby,  Vanda  CEerulea  (very  flue),  Lselio- 
Cattleya  Ophir,  Dendroblum  dalhousieanum,  with  pale 
fawn-coloured  flowers  and  crimson  centre,  and  Odonto- 
glossum crispum  harryanum  bruggeanum,  with  large, 
dark-coloured  spots,  were  also  noticed  in  a  nice  lot. 
Silver  Flora  medal. 

F.  Menteith  Ogllvle,  Esq.,  Oxford,  received  a  silver  Flora 
medal  for  a  small  group  of  choice  things,  which  included 
Cyprlpedium  Vipanii  Shrubbery  var.  v  c.  philippense 
niveum,  Odontoglossum  crispum  Madonna  (white,  with 
yellow  base),  and  other  charming  and  good  kinds. 

Mr.  James  H.  Hill,  Burgess  Hill,  Sussex,  had  a  small 
group  of  Miltonias  :  while  Messrs.  William  Bull  and  Sons, 
Chelsea,  had  several  plants  ol  Lsella  xantbina  x  Cattleya 

Messrs.  .Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield,  had  some  well- 
flowered  examples  of  Dendroblum  thyrslflorum,  Vanda 
klmballiana,  Cochlioda  noetzllana,  Oncldlum  pulvinatum, 
Odontoglossum  Pescatorel,  and  the  quaint  Bulbophyllum 
godseflianum  among  many  interesting  and  good  kinds. 
Silver  Flora  medal. 

Sir  Jeremiah  Colman,  Gatton  Park  (gardener,  Mr. 
Collier),  had  a  most  Interesting  lot  of  things,  such  as 
Nephelaphyllum  pulchrum,  Masdevallia  muscosa,  M. 
Chimsera,  Bulbophyllum  biflorum,  B.  cocolnum,  Lsslio- 
Cattleya  Epicastra  Gatton  Park  variety  and  Odontoglossum 
Astarte  in  a  very  pretty  lot. 

Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co.,  Hayward's  Heath, 
brought  several  good  things.  Dendroblum  anosmum, 
Odontoglossum  Eleanor,  0.  schleiperianum  cltrlnum,  0. 
Rolfese  (several  good  plants  in  flower  being  displayed  of 
this  dark  blotched  kind,  which  has  the  reputation  of 
being  a  good  grower  and  a  free  bloomer),  Sobralla 
macrantha  alba  magniflca,  Mlltonia  vexillaria  alblflorum, 
Vanda  csenilea  in  charming  variety,  Lsollo-Cattleya  Cella 
and  Sophro-Lsello  Leda  were  all  noted  In  this  excellent 
lot.    Sliver  Flora  medal. 

In  a  very  delightful  lot  from  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  the 
lovely  Vanda  Miss  Jacquln  was  noted,  and  for  this  a 
cultural  commendation  waa  granted.  A  similar  award 
was  extended  to  Habenarla  rhodochilon,  with  orange 
flowers,  of  which  a  large  number  of  plants  were  shown. 

Odontloda  Charlesworthll  superba  was  well  shown  by 
Mr.  W,  Thompson,  Stone,  Staffs,  for  which  a  cultural 
commendation  was  awarded. 

Fkuit  and  Veoetablb  Committee. 

Present:  -Mr.  George  Bunyard  (chairman),  Messrs. 
J.  Cheal,  W.  Bates,  Alex.  Dean,  Edwin  Beckett,  E. 
Hobday,  H.  Parr,  P.  D.  Tuckett,  G.  Reynolds,  J.  Jaques, 
G.  Wythes,  J.  Mclndoe,  Owen  Thomas,  H.  Somers 
Rivers,  A.  H.  Pearson  and  John  Harrison. 

There  were  several  meritorious  exhibits  before  this 
committee,  the  Tomatoes,  Peas,  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
claiming  attention  at  once. 

The  collection  of  Tomatoes  from  Messrs.  Sutton  and 
Sons,  Reading,  included  some  twenty  or  more  distinct 
varieties  and  about  150  pot-grown  examples.  All  the 
plants  carried  heavy  crops  of  well-coloured  trults,  most  of 
them  reaching  to  the  soil.  It  Is  needless  to  say  that  the 
pick  of  the  best  commercial  sorts  were  included  in  this 
fine  lot  of  admirably  grown  plants,  and  from  among  them 
we  selected  Sutton's  A  1  and  Best  of  All,  Winter  Beauty, 
Chiswick  Peach,  Golden  Queen,  Eclipse,  Golden  Nugget 
(small  and  free).  Peach  Blow,  Sunbeam  (yellow,  of  medium 
size).  Golden  Perfection,  Abundance,  Magnum  Bonnm  and 
others.  The  group  was  arranged  with  skill  and  judgment 
and  commanded  attention  at  once.  Silver-gilt  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  Thomas  Rivers,  .^awbrldgeworth,  staged  four 
Cherry  trees  In  fruit,  one  of  which  (Black  Hawk)  was 
described  as  having  been  pot-grown  and  fruited  for  forty 
years.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  James  Carter  and  Co.,  Holborn,  displayed  a 
very  extensive  collection  of  culinary  Peas,  including  the 
best  standard  varieties  in  early  and  late  sorts,  also  a  con- 
siderable number  of  seedlings.  Tomatoes,  too,  were  very 
finely  displayed  by  Messrs.  Carter,  the  exhibit  being  of  a 
very  useful  and  instructive  nature.  Sllver-gUt  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea,  had 
a  remarkable  collection  of  pot-grown  fruits  that  not  only 
were  presented  In  perfect  condition,  but  displayed 
masterly  cultivation.  The  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  repre- 
sented by  some  three  dozen    examples,    were   perfectly 


shown,  the  former  embracing  Peregrine,  Royal  George. 
Duke  of  York,  Duchess  of  Cornwall  and  others,  while  of 
Nectarines  Early  Rivers',  Lord  Napier,  Pineapple  and 
Cardinal  were  shown.  The  trees,  too,  were  In  splendid 
condition,  and,  being  heavily  fruited  throughout,  excited 
the  admiration  of  all.  Figs,  too,  were  seen  in  all  the 
leading  sorts,  while  the  trained  Gooseberries  of  three, 
four  or  five  stems  were  simply  loaded  with  the  finest 
fruits.  Of  these  alone  some  thirty-eight  examples  were 
staged.  Forester,  red  ;  Langley  Gage,  perhaps  the  best- 
flavoured  sort ;  Langley  Beauty,  very  large  ;  Broom  Girl, 
green  fruits  ;  Gipsy  Queen,  a  yellow  green  sort ;  and  Keep- 
sake, a  very  large,  green-fruited  variety,  were  among  the 
best.  For  this  superb  gathering  of  fruits  of  many  kinds  no 
praise  would  be  too  great,  and  It  was  no  surprise  that  so 
meritorious  a  group  should  receive  the  unanimous  award 
of  a  gold  medal,  which  it  richly  deserved.  In  addition  to 
the  above,  and  as  once  more  demonstrating  the  resources 
of  this  firm,  Messrs.  Veitch  were  awarded  a  sliver 
Knightian  medal  for  a  very  comprehensive  collection  of 
Lettuces,  Peas  and  other  kitchen  garden  produce.  The 
Peas  included  Telephone,  International,  Prodigy,  Duke  of 
York,  Telegraph,  Gradus,  Duke  of  Albany,  Acme, 
Alderman  and  others.  Cauliflower  The  Pearl,  Tomato 
Invicta,  Carrots,  Improved  Cantaloupe  Melons,  French 
Beans,  Mushrooms  and  the  like  tended  to  make  the 
exhibit  a  very  complete  and  representative  one. 
Floral  Committee. 
Present:  Mr.  W.  Marshall  (chairman),  Messrs.  C.  T. 
Druery,  W.  J.  Bean,  W.  J.  Barr.  A.  Turner,  J.  F.  McLeod, 
James  Hudson,  J.  Jennings,  J.  Green,  Charles  Dixon, 
Charles  E.  Pearson,  Charles  E.  Shea,  William  Cuthbertson, 
W.  P.  Thomson.  W.  J.  James,  R.  Hooper  Pearson,  E.  H. 
Jenkins.  H.  B.  May,  J.  T.  Bennett-Poe,  A.  E.  Bowles, 
R.  W.  Wallace,  James  Walker  and  George  Gordon. 

Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Hardy  Plant  Farm,  Enfield,  arranged 
throughout  the  western  end  of  the  hall  a  sumptuous  group 
of  Delphiniums  in  many  superb  varieties  and  In  very 
distinct  colours.  It  was  a  feast  of  these  indispensable 
border  flowers  very  rarely  seen,  and  the  group  attracted 
a  good  deal  of  attention.  A  few  of  the  more  conspicuous 
were  Lize,  azure  blue,  white  eye  ;  Candidat,  purple  blue  ; 
La  France,  sky  blue  with  metallic  shading  ;  Jubilee,  deep 
sky  blue  ;  Dragon  Fly,  royal  blue  ;  Queen  Wilhelmlna,  sky 
blue,  white  eye,  very  charming :  Danube,  pale  blue  with 
metallic  shading ;  and  Geneva,  sky  blue,  white  eye.  Of 
the  lighter  shades.  Primrose  and  Beauty  of  Langport  were 
notable  and  distinct.  Other  flowers  shown  by  Mr.  Perry 
Included  a  choice  lot  of  Lilies,  among  which  we  noted 
Lilium  Krameri  and  a  pure  white  form  of  it,  which  we 
have  never  before  seen.  L.  giganteum,  L.  Martagon 
album,  L.  Parryi  and  others  were  also  noted.  Sliver  Flora 
medal. 

Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark,  Dover,  set  up  a  full-length 
table  of  hardy  perennial  cut  flowers,  on  which  a  great 
variety  of  things.  Irises,  Crinums,  Phloxes,  Larkspurs, 
Galllardias  and  others  were  seen  to  advantage.  Silver 
Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  William  Cutbush  and  Sons,  Highgate,  brought 
a  very  telling  lot  of  Malmaison  and  Perpetual-flowering 
Carnations,  staging  them  in  a  most  effective  manner  in 
bold  vases  and  groups  against  a  background  of  Palms  and 
other  foliage  plants.  Needless  to  say,  the  cream  of  both 
sertions  were  well  represented.  Rose  Pink  Enchantress, 
White  Perfection  and  Robert  Craig  being  in  excellent 
condition.    Silver-gilt  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  A.  Charlton  and  Sons,  Tanbridge  Wells,  brought 
a  capital  exhibit  of  hardy  cut  flowers,  such  things  as  Iris 
Ksempferi,  Scablosa  caucasica,  Alstroemerias,  Campanula 
lactiflora,  English  Irises  and  the  like  being  well  displayed. 
Messrs.  Wallace  and  Co  ,  Colchester,  brought  a  most 
effective  group  of  Lilies,  Iris  Kssmpferi  and  Eremuri,  the 
latter,  largely  represented  by  Shelford  and  Bungei,  making 
a  particularly  flne  display.  Lilium  auratum  in  variety 
and  L  Orange  Queen  were  also  excellent.  Silver  Flora 
medal. 

The  Larkspurs  from  Messrs.  Kelway,  Langport,  were 
very  flne,  and  staged  in  vases  attracted  by  reason  of 
the  individual  beauty  and  merit.  Among  pale  blue 
shades  were  Queen  Alexandra,  Mary  Morlson,  Countess  of 
Ilchester,  Eton  Boy  and  Star  of  Langport,  the  dark  blues 
being  seen  in  Lord  Elgin,  Gladstone,  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
Lord  Hawke  and  Alake.  Galllardias  and  Sweet  Peas  were 
also  freely  shown  by  Messrs.  Kelway. 

Messrs.  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond,  effectively  grouped  a 
large  collection  of  Caladlums,  the  plants  admirably  grown 
and  presented  chiefly  in  large  specimen  examples. 

Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  Keston,  Kent,  brought  a  comprehensive 
display  of  seasonable  hardy  flowering  plants,  as  Heucheras, 
Lilies,  Irises,  a  large  array  of  alpine  and  border 
Campanulas,  among  which  the  pretty  C.  eicisa,  C. 
pulloides,  C.  Hendersonil  and  C.  Hostli  alba  were  notice- 
able and  good.  Apart  from  these  were  many  alpines  of 
interest  or  merit,  and  such  things  Invariably  attract  by 
reason  of  their  variety.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware,  Limited,  Feltham,  staged  in  their 
usual  effective  way  a  large  lot  of  alpines  and  other  hardy 
flowers,  employing  Campanulas,  Larkspurs,  Dianthi  and 
many  others  to  advantage. 

Messrs.  H.  J.  Jones,  Limited,  Hither  Green,  Lewlsham, 
displayed  an  admirably  grown  lot  of  herbaceous  Phloxes 
in  pots,  in  which  Le  Steele,  Millet  (pmk),  Cyrano  (deep 
lilac,  white  eye),  Eugene  .Schott  (rose,  white  starred  eye), 
Embrasement  (scarlet).  Iris  (deep  violet)  and  many  others 
were  seen.  The  plants  were  well  -  flowered  throughout, 
not  more  than  2^  feet  or  3  feet  high,  and  made  a  most 
effective  group.   "Galllardias,  too,  were  very  showy. 

Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons,  Edmonton,  brought  a  very 
fine  exhibit  of  Ferns  and  flowering  plants,  the  former  in- 
cluding a  large  number  of  the  beautiful  series  of  plumose 
Nephrolepis,  Platycerluras,  Adlantums  and  others.  The 
flowering  plants    included    Vallotas,   Acalypha   Sanderi, 


380 


THE    GAKDEN. 


I  July  31,1909, 


beautifully  grown  and  well  displaying  its  richly  coloured 
tasael-like  appendages,  together  with  Ixoras,  Abutilons 
and  other  things.  Allamanda  grandiflora  (rich  yellow)  was 
also  well  shown.    Silver-gilt  Bankaian  medal. 

Cecil  F.  Raphael,  Esq.,  Shenley,  Herts  (gardener,  Mr.  A. 
Grubb),  brought  a  magnificent  exhibit  of  Malmaison 
Carnations  in  pots,  in  red,  white,  blush,  pink  and  scarlet 
shades.  Princess  of  Wales  (pink)  was  a  popular  and 
prominent  variety,  and  displayed  its  merits  to  advantage. 
King  Oscar  (scarlet)  and  Maggie  Hodgson  (crimson)  were 
also  excellent.  The  yellow  border  variety.  Miss  Audrey 
Campbell,  was  well  seen  in  the  background,  where  Ferns 
and  other  foliage  plants  also  appeared.  The  group,  which 
occupied  a  space  of  300  square  feet,  was  admirably 
arranged.    Gold  medal. 

Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield,  arranged  a  central 
group  of  Malmaison  and  other  Carnations  on  the  floor  of 
the  hall,  this  forming  a  pyramid.  Many  of  the  leading 
varieties  of  Carnations  were  employed,  among  which  many 
seedlings  were  noted.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Lilley  and  Co.,  Guernsey,  brought  an  admirable 
display  of  early  Gladioli,  arranging  the  pretty  and 
decorative  spikes  in  a  very  pleasing  and  artistic  manner. 
Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  W.  J.  ('nwin,  Histon,  Cambridge,  brought  a  very  fine 
lot  of  Sweet  Peaa,  staging  them  in  a  most  effective  way, 
chiefly  in  branched  vases,  which  gave  lightness  and  elegance 
to  the  whole.  A  few  notable  sorts  were  A.  J.  Cook. 
Helen  Lewis,  Constance  Oliver,  Nora  Unwin,  I'nwin's 
Maroon,  Paradise  Ivory,  Princess  Victoria,  Glafiys  Burt 
and  Clara  Curtis.  In  another  group  baskets  of  the  most 
charming  of  these  were  suspended  and  gave  a  pretty 
result.  We  cannot  understand  why  this  exhibit  did  not 
receive  any  recognition  from  the  committee. 

Messrs.  R.  and  G.  Cuthbert,  Southgate,  filled  a  table 
with  Zonal  and  Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums,  Astilbes, 
Hydrangeas  and  other  plants  in  flower.  Silver  Banksian 
medal. 

The  very  full  table  of  Roses  from  Messrs.  William  Paul 
and  Sons,  Waltham  Cross,  was  a  leading  feature  of  a  good 
show,  doing  credit  alike  to  a  great  Rose-growing  firm  and 
to  the  flower  itself.  The  season  of  1909  has  not  so  far 
been  remarkable  for  good  Roses  ;  hence  we  were  the  more 
pleased  to  see  so  fine  and  so  represemtative  a  gathering 
of  these  flowers.  The  display  was  an  exhibition  in  itself, 
and  we  regret  that  our  space  forbids  a  detailed  report  of 
so  fine  an  exhibit.  Some  of  the  best,  however,  were 
Antoine  Rivoire,  Pharisaer,  Betty  (a  delightful  flower), 
Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  (in  apricot  and  cream),  Le  Progrfes 
(orange  yellow,  most  charming),  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert, 
Lyon  Rose,  Hugo  Roller,  Lady  Ashtown  in  pink,  Rich- 
mond, Countess  of  Derby.  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Fran 
Karl  Druschki,  Cynthia  (a  lovely  flower  in  cream),  Joseph 
Hill  (very  charming),  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  (quite 
superb)  and  many  more,  giving  a  feast  of  the  flower  rarely 
seen.     Silver-gilt  Flora  medal. 

An  unusual  exhibit,  reminding  one  of  those  of  years  ago, 
was  that  of  succulents  and  Cactaceous  plants  from  Messrs. 
Cannell  and  Sons,  Swanley,  who  brought  some  200  species 
and  varieties  of  these  interesting  and  remarkable  plants. 
The  vigour  and  health  of  the  collection  were  alone  worthy 
of  remark,  and  as  a  representative  gathering  of  these 
things  is  rarely  seen  at  an  exhibition  it  commanded  a  good 
deal  of  attention.  Needless  to  say,  in  so  comprehensive  a 
group  all  the  finest  things  were  to  be  seen,  and  not  a  few 
rarities  also,  as,  for  example,  Mesembryanthemum 
Boluasii,  Senecio  Haworthii,  Cereus  peruvianus  monstrosus 
(The  Rock  of  Ages),  The  Bishop's  Hood  (Aatrophyton 
myriostigma),  Maxillaria  micromeris,  Cotyledon  edulis, 
Cereus  sargentianus  (which  is  said  not  to  become  bearded 
until  it  has  passed  its  century),  Opuntia  robusta  (a  per- 
fectly hardy  sort),  Pilocerus  honlletianus  (a  very  hirsute 
and  rare  kind  which  is  only  hairy  at  the  summit),  P  senilis 
(the  Old  Man  Cactus),  Euphorbia  Caput  -  Medusae  and 
many  more  of  equal  interest  or  merit.  Silver  Flora 
medal. 

Messrs.  Carter  Page  and  Co.,  London  Wall,  had  quite  a 
unique  display  of  Sweet  Peaa,  staging  a  very  large  collec- 
tion in  a  most  artistic  and  attractive  manner.  The  collec- 
tion was  one  of  the  moat  complete  we  have  seen,  all  the 
leading  sorts  being  staged  in  a  liberal  way.  The  exhibit 
extended  throughout  one  of  the  long  tables,  and,  being  of 
double  width,  attracted  a  good  deal  of  attention.  Silver 
Flora  medal. 

Mr.  James  Douglas,  Great  Bookham,  Surrey,  brought  a 
capital  group  of  border  Carnations,  of  which  Cardinal 
(scarlet),  Agnea  Sorrel  (crimson).  Amy  Robsart  (white), 
Cupid  (pink),  R.  Berkeley  (scarlet),  Hercules  (maroon, 
very  large)  and  Ellen  Douglas  (heliotrope)  were  the  best. 
Elizabeth  Schiffner  (apricot  and  yellow)  was  also  distinct. 
Mr.  Douglaa  also  displayed  a  few  of  the  Malmaison 
varieties. 

The  Misses  Hopkins,  Shepperton,  had  a  small  exhibit  of 
Sweet  Williams. 

Mr.  W.  Chaplin,  Waltham  Cross,  had  a  delightful 
exhibit  of  Rosea,  in  which  Hugh  Dickson,  Mme. 
Ravary,  Dean  Hole,  Lady  Roberts,  Earl  of  Warwick, 
Mme.  A.  Chatenay  and  Lady  Ashtown  were  notable 
flowers. 

Messrs.  R.  Harknesa  and  Co.,  Hitchin,  also  brought  a 
flne  display  of  Roses— Hugh  Dickson,  Mrs.  J.  Lovatt,  and 
Edu  Jleyer,  a  pretty  salmony  yellow  shade.  The  latter 
should  make  a  delightful  bedding  Rose.  Mrs.  W,.T.  Grant 
was  also  in  excellent  form. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea, 
arranged  a  table  with  an  excellent  lot  of  flowering  plants, 
of  which  Cannaa  in  many  varieties,  Romneya  Coulteri, 
Sollya  Drummondii  (a  pretty  blue  bell-shaped  flower)  and 
Solanum  Wendlandii  (the  latter  particularly  fine)  were 
excellent.  Lilium  myriophyllum  is  a  lovely  form  of  L. 
Brownii,  from  the  Tibetan  frontier,  the  reddish  buda 
contrasting  well  with  the  white  rose-suffused  segments 


which  internally  are  much  coloured  with  yellow.  It  is  in 
every  way  a  grand  Lily  and  most  distinct.  Malmaison 
Carnations  were  also  a  feature  in  this  very  flne  group, 
all  the  leading  commercial  sorts,  including  novelties,  being 
displayed  to  advantace.  Yaller  Gal,  Mrs.  E.  Hambro, 
Maggie  Hodgson  and  Princess  of  Wales  were  among  those 
noted.  Border  Carnations  were  also  freely  displayed  by 
Messrs.  Veitch.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons,  Crawley,  had  a  capital  exhibit 
of  hardy  perennials  and  Sweet  Peas,  each  being  displayed 
in  many  good  varieties.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  James  Carter  and  Co.,  Holborn,  displayed  a 
lovely  lot  of  Sweet  Peas  over  an  archway,  which  attracted 
a  good  deal  of  attention.  The  colours  of  the  flowers  were 
admirably  arranged  and  reflected  a  good  deal  of  credit 
on  the  firm.    Silver-gilt  Banksian  medal. 

G.  Ferguson,  Esq.,  Weybridge,  received  a  similar  award 
for  an  admirable  display  of  Larkspurs  of  the  highest  merit. 


THE    NATIONAL    CARNATION    SOCIETV. 

This  society,  which  has  now  been  established  for  over 
thirty  years,  held  a  very  aucceaaful  show  at  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Hall  on  Wednesday,  July  21,  the  ouly 
drawback  being  that  in  many  of  the  leading  classes  there 
were  only  two  competitors — Mr.  J.  Douglas  and  Mr.  Blick, 
who  was  gardener  to  the  late  Martin  Smith,  Esq.,  and  who 
has  now  started  in  business.  Carnations  being  his  speciality. 
It  would  be  monotonous  to  give  the  names  of  winners  of 
prizes  in  each  class.  At  least  twelve  first  prizes  were  taken 
by  Mr.  Douglas,  and  in  some  classes  firsts  were  secured  by 
Mr.  Blick,  who  followed  Mr.  Douglas  closely  in  other  classes. 
Mr.  Hay  ward  Mathias  came  in  well  in  some  classes.  Messrs. 
Phillips  and  Taylor  and  Mr.  W.  Sydenham  were  among  the 
chief  trade  growers.  First-class  certificates  were  given  for 
the  foUow^ing:  T.  E.  Henwood,  a  pure  white  self  (from  Mr. 
J.  Douglas) ;  Libra,  a  fine  yellow  ground  Picotee  (from  Mr. 
Hayward  Mathias);  and  F.  W.  Goodfellow,  a  heavy-edged 
yellow  ground  Picotee  (from  Mr.  C.  Blick).  The  premier 
blooms  were  as  follows :  In  bizarres  or  flakes  Admiral 
Curzon,  a  beautifully  marked  white,  red  and  crimson 
variety  (Douglas).  For  Picotees  Mr.  Douglas  took 
premier  prize  with  Alcestes,  a  clear  white  with  pink 
edge,  and  also  a  premier  prize  for  Daffodil,  a  very  flne 
yellow  self. 

In  most  of  the  vase  classes  there  were  from  four  to  six 
exhibits.  The  varieties  most  worthy  of  note  were  Miss  Will- 
mott,  rose  ;  Daffodil,  yellow  ;  and  Buttercup,  another  good 
yellow.  In  scarlets,  Cardinal  was  one  of  the  best.  T.  E. 
Henwood  was  decidedly  the  most  useful  white,  though 
Eric  Hambro  was  placed  before  it  in  the  class  for  a  vase  of 
nine  blooms.  For  the  best  yellow  ground  Picotee  Mr. 
Blick  secured  first  honours  with  J.  Ruskin  ;  Ophir  was 
another  good  variety  in  the  same  class.  Mr.  Douglas  took 
first  for  terra-cotta  or  buff  colour  with  fine  blooms  of 
Benbow  ;  for  yellow  ground  fancies  with  Pasquin,  buff, 
rtaked  heliotrope ;  and  for  any  fancy  variety.  Lady  Gay, 
white  with  red  stripes,  was  the  variety  taking  first  prize. 
Cardinal  was  a  most  prominent  scarlet  variety.  King 
Arthur,  in  the  aame  class,  was  larger,  but  with  the  National 
Carnation  Society  perfect  form  takes  precedence. 

In  the  collection  classes  some  good  varieties  were  noted, 
among  them  being  Mrs.  Griffith  Jones,  Miss  A.  Sorrel,  Mrs. 
R.  Berkeley,  Mrs.  Guy  Sebright,  Hildegarde,  Juno,  Rich- 
ness, H.  Falkland,  Ophirand  many  others ;  but  it  cannot  be 
said  that  we  have  any  great  advance  on  the  best-known 
standard  varieties.  There  was  an  entire  absenceof  pot  plants, 
except  in  the  non-competitive  classes.  The  grand  group 
staged  by  C.  F.  Raphael,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  Grubb), 
the  previous  day  remained  ;  this  consisted  chiefly  of  the 
Malmaison  varieties.  Messrs.  H.  Low  and  Co.'s  interesting 
group  of  new  Malmaison  varieties  was  an  attraction.  Of 
these  Irene,  C.  0.  Little,  Sunset,  Lady  Mary  Hope  and 
Amber  were  promising  varieties. 

Meaara,  Veitch  and  Sons  had  a  good  collection  repre- 
senting all  types  in  well-grown  pot  plants.  Mr.  A.  F. 
Dutton  put  up  about  fifty  large  vases  of  good  border 
varieties.  Here  was  further  evidence  that  English 
varieties  can  be  well  shown  on  long  stems  without  any 
artificial  supports.  Of  the  varieties  noted,  Trojan  was  a 
very  flne  white,  Joban  (cream),  Irene  Vaughan  (cerise), 
Cupid  (rose),  Lady  Oswald  {yellow  ground  fancy)  and  the 
whole  of  the  fifty  varieties  were  of  the  best  types.  Messrs. 
Cutbush  and  Sons  made  a  grand  display,  which  included 
flne  blooms  of  all  the  various  sections.  Mr.  J.  Williams, 
Ealing,  filled  a  table  with  his  rustic  stands,  which  con- 
tained good  blooms  of  Enchantress  and  foliage.  The  only 
table  in  the  competitive  class  was  well  arranged.  Here 
Enchantress  was  the  variety  used. 

SITTTON    ROSE    SOCIETY. 

The  twenty-eighth  annual  exhibition  was  held  in  the 
charming  grounds  attached  to  Manor  Park  House,  Car- 
shalton  Road.  These  grounds,  in  addition  to  being  central, 
are  eminently  suited  to  a  function  of  this  kind,  and  abetter 
spot  could  not  have  been  found  in  the  confines  of  Sutton. 
It  proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  perfect  days  of  the 
year,  bright  sunshine  and  genial  breezes  making  a  lengthy 
sojourn  in  the  open  air  a  delight. 

The  majority  of  the  exhibits  were  staged  in  a  huge 
marquee  at  the  north  end  of  the  grounds,  a  small  tent 
being  reserved  for  the  ladies'  and  general  sections.  This 
gave  ample  room  for  all  the  exhibits  to  be  displayed,  and 
for  the  first  time  in  many  years  visitors  to  the  show  were 
able  to  see  the  blooms  set  out  without  crowding.  In 
quality  the  Roses  were  as  good  as  those  shown  at  the 
National  exhibition,  and  if  the  numbers  were  com- 
paratively small,  there  was  in  several  cases  the  keenest 
competition. 

In  the  nurserymen's  classes,  Messrs.  Harkness  and  Co. 
and    Messrs.    G.    and    H.    W.    Burch    were    conspicuous 


absentees.  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.  won  the  Sutton 
Cup  ;  their  best  blooms  were  Mildred  Grant,  Oberhof- 
gartner  Terks,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Dean  Hole  and 
Richmond.  Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  were  a  good  second, 
and  conspicuous  among  their  blooms  was  a  Mrs.  W.  J. 
Grant,  which  took  the  silver  medal  presented  by  Mr.  E.  J. 
Holland,  C.C.,  for  the  best  bloom  in  the  nurserymen's 
classes.  Mildred  Grant  and  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  were 
also  noteworthy  blooms  in  this  stand.  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant 
and  Sons  were  third.  They  were  able  to  secure  premier 
honours  in  the  clasa  for  twenty-four  distinct,  however, 
their  stand  being  easily  first  with  some  superb  blooms, 
among  which  Mildred  Grant,  Lyon  Rose  and  Mrs.  J.  Laing 
were  prominent.  Messrs,  Prior,  who  were  second,  had  a 
remarkably  fine  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant.  Messrs.  Frank  Cant 
and  Co.  were  third.  In  the  class  for  twelve  threes,  Messrs. 
Prior  were  a  good  first.  They  showed  some  remarkably 
fine  Caroline  Testouts  ;  W.  J.  Grant,  Liberty  and  Dean 
Hole  were  also  excellent  blooms.  Messrs.  Frank  Cant 
took  premier  honours  in  the  class  for  eighteen  blooms,  re- 
peating their  performance  of  last  year.  Their  box  con- 
tained flne  specimens  of  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and  Lady 
Roberts.  The  class  for  twelve  blooms  of  one  variety 
produced  some  very  level  boxes,  Mesara.  Prior  showing 
Mrs.  J.  Laing ;  Messrs.  B  R.  Cant,  Dean  Hole ;  and  Messrs. 
F.  Cant,  Richmond,  all  of  good  colour  and  in  splendid 
condition. 

The  open  amateur  classes  were,  as  uaual,  productive  of 
keen  competition,  although  one  missed  auch  well-known 
exhibitors  as  the  Rev.  F.  R.  Burnside  and  Messrs.  T.  B. 
Gabriel  and  A.  Tate.  Chief  interest  centred  round  the 
class  for  twelve  distinct,  which  carries  with  it  the  Vice- 
President's  Cup.  Last  year  this  was  secured  by  Mr.  E.  J. 
Holland,  and  this  year  he  was  able  to  win  it  a  second 
time  with  a  beautiful  box  of  twelve  young  flowers.  One 
of  these,  a  magnificent  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  took  the 
National  Rose  Society's  silver  medal  for  the  best  Hybrid 
Tea  in  the  amateur  classes,  an  honour  which  fell  to  Mr. 
Holland  last  year.  Other  notable  blooms  in  the  box  were 
Mildred  Grant,  Dean  Hole,  Mrs.  John  Laing  and  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert.  Mr.  Eversfield  was  second ;  he  had  a 
fine  collection,  and  although  the  flowers  were  a  little 
older,  the  judges  had  difficulty  in  separating  the  boxes. 
His  best  bloom  was  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  although  a 
fine  Hugh  Dickson  ran  it  close.  In  the  claas  for 
twenty-four  blooms  the  tables  were  turned,  Air.  Eversfield 
being  first  with  a  good  lot  of  blooms,  bright  and  clean. 
Mr.  Holland's  box  contained  a  fine  Lyon  Rose.  He  won 
the  next  class  easily,  his  best  trebles  being  Dean  Hole  and 
Lady  Ashtown.  Mr.  Eversfield  was  second  with  rather 
older  flowers,  Hugh  Dickson  being  his  best  treble. 

Dr.  Lamplough  won  the  first  clasa  in  Division  C  with  a 
good  level  lot,  and  he  also  took  premier  place  with  four 
trebles,  distinct,  showing  some  high-class  flowers— Bessie 
Brown,  Mrs.  J.  Laing,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  and  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux. 

In  Division  D,  the  Grimson  Challenge  Cup  was  won  by 
Mr.  Vivian  Rolt,  who  also  secured  it  last  year.  A  very 
level  box  it  was,  but  a  William  Shean  was,  perhaps,  the 
best  of  the  six.  The  other  prizes  went  to  new-comers. 
In  the  class  for  six  blooms  of  one  variety,  Mr.  V.  Rolt  was 
also  first ;  his  exhibit  was  Mildred  Grant.  Mr.  Beck  took 
second  prize  with  Caroline  Testout,  and  Mr.  Nightingale 
third  with  Helen  Keller. 

The  Alexander  Challenge  Cup,  for  nine  distinct  blooms 
(Division  E),  was  won  by  Mr.  A.  E.  Farnden  ;  his  box  of 
excellent  blooms  contained  a  well-developed  Caroline 
Testout,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  and  Mrs.  J.  Laing.  Mr.  C.  W. 
Edwards  was  second  with  a  good  box  ;  the  hon.  secretary 
of  the  society  (Mr.  Dixon)  a  good  third,  his  exhibit  con- 
taining a  particularly  large  Mildred  Grant.  The  Harknesa 
Plate  was  won  by  Mr.  Dixon,  in  whose  box  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert  was  again  in  evidence,  also  a  grand  Dean 
Hole.  Mr.  Jackson's  box,  which  was  second,  contained  a 
particularly  good  Horace  Vemet. 

There  was  keen  competition  in  the  local  classes,  and 
particularly  for  the  Ladies'  Cup,  which  has  been  competed 
for  nine  years  and  still  remains  in  competition.  The 
box  with  which  Mr.  C.  W.  Edveards  won  it  waa  an 
excellent  one,  with  not  a  bad  bloom  in  it.  Mr.  A.  G. 
Morriah  was  a  close  second,  and  his  box  contained  one  bloom 
which  attracted  much  attention  during  the  day— a  Mrs. 
John  Laing.  This  was  awarded  the  National  Rose  Society's 
medal  for  the  best  bloom  in  Divisions  E  and  F.  Mr.  Dixon 
was  a  strong  competitor  in  the  class,  and  the  exhibits 
generally  were  most  creditable  to  local  exhibitors.  Mr. 
Edwards  was  again  first  in  the  next  class  with  six  good 
specimens  of  Caroline  Testout,  Mr.  Jackson  being  second 
with  Lady  Ashtown,  and  Mr.  Morrish  third  with  smaller 
but  younger  specimens  of  the  same  flower.  Mr.  Gann 
won  the  class  for  six  distinct  blooms  easily,  a  William 
Shean  in  his  box  winning  the  National  Rose  Society's 
silver  medal  for  the  best  bloom  in  that  and  the  succeeding 
two  classes.  The  same  grower  secured  first  prize  for  six 
blooms  in  four  varieties. 

Class  23,  open  to  those  who  had  not  previously  taken 
a  prize  at  the  show,  was  a  good  innovation,  and 
Messrs.  Keith  Jones,  Jay  and  Learman  were  deserving 
of  the  prizes  awarded. 

The  cottagers'  classes  were  not  strongly  represented, 
but  the  exhibits  staged  were  good.  A  bloom  of  Dean  Hole 
in  the  vase  of  three,  which  gained  first  prize  for  Mr. 
Matthews,  secured  the  silver  medal  given  by  Mr.  W.  Houle 
for  the  best  bloom  in  the  cottagers'  classes. 

The  ladies'  section  was  very  attractive.  Table  decora- 
tions were  not  numerous,  hut  those  shown  refiected 
much  credit  on  the  competitors,  and  Mrs.  A.  Robinson 
was  particularly  tasteful  in  her  work.  Sweet  Peas  were 
very  backward  owing  to  the  weather,  and  the  general 
section  suffered  in  consequence.  What  this  section  lacked 
in  quantity  was  made  up  in  quality,  Gloxinias  and 
Begonias  being  superb. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  July  2,1st,  1909. 


THE   NEW   SWEET   PEA   MRS.   A.   IRELAND. 
(DOBBIE   &   CO.) 


Hudson  &  k'cams,  Ltd.,  Piiiitns,  Lcndon,  S.E. 


GARDEN. 


-y^=^ 


No.  1968.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


August  7,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


"  The  Garden  "  Hoeti- 
ouiTCEAL     Show, 

1909 3S1 

Notes  of  thb  Week     382 
Prizes  lor  Headers      . .    382 

OOBKEBFOHDENOB  332 

The  Delphinium  . .     . .    383 

TKEE3  AND  SHKUBS 

Some  good  white- 
flowering  shrubs  . .     383 

Beech  disease  and 
its  treatment       . .    383 

GREENHOnSE 

Freesias  and  their 
culture 384 

FLOWER  GARDEH 

Daffodil  notes  . .  . .  S3B 
The  Horned  Violet  . .  385 
Propagating  bedding 

plants      386 

The  Yellow  Gentian  385 
The      herbaceous 

Fseonies 386 

Rose  Garden 
Rose  Juliet       . .     . .    386 
Rose  Kronprinzessin 

Cecilie 386 

Rosa  lucida  alba  . .  386 
A     beautiful     Bour- 

sault  Rose      . .     . .    387 


Rose  Garden 
Rose   William  Allen 
Richardson     in    a 
North     Devon 

garden     387 

Rose  Climbing   Cap- 
tain   Christy  as   a 

standard 387 

Fruit  Garden 

Fruit  notes       ..     ..    387 
Gardening  for  Beqinners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        388 

Propagating    the 
evergreen     Candy- 
tuft by  cuttings   . .     388 
Planting     alpine 

flowers     389 

The  T9WN  Garden  ..    389 
Gardehinq  of  the  Week 
For   the  South   and 

South  Midlands    ..    390 
For  the   Korth   and 
North  Midlands  ..    390 

New  plants 390 

Answers    to    Cobre- 

8F0RDBHTS 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  390 

Rose  garden      . .     , .  391 

Miscellaneous  ..     ..  392 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Summer-house  and  pergola 384 

The  summer-house  and  pergola  four  years  later. .     . .  384 

The  Horned  Violet  growing  on  a  bank 386 

The  new  Rose  Juliet      380 

Rose  William  Allen  Richardson       387 

Propagating  the  evergreen  Candytuft  by  cuttings    388,  389 


EDITORIAL    NOTICBS. 

Svery  department  of  horticuUtire  is  represented  in  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  queatiojis 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  amthorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "  Answers  to  Correspondents "  column  a  conspicuous 
leature^  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistaruie. 
A.U  communications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  0}  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Bditob  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  luime  and  address  oj  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  AU 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  vHU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions,  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  /or  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  ovmer  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  corUributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  Tnust  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  tin  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THB  GARDEN 
wiU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offlces:  10,  Tavistock  Street,  Couent  Garden,  W.C. 


"THE    GARDEN"    HORTI- 
CULTURAL SHOW,  1909. 

WHEN  the  Proprietors  of  The 
Garden  ooneeived  and  carried 
out  the  bold  and  novel  idea  of 
holding  a  flower  show  in  London, 
the  exhibitors  at  which  were 
only  to  be  readers  of  The  Garden,  there  were 
many  friends  who  doubted  the  wisdom  of  the 
step  taken,  fearing  the  project  might  not  prove 
successful.  As  it  turned  out,  the  wisdom  of  the 
initiative  was  abundantly  justified,  for  the 
success  of  the  first  show  was  most  encouraging. 

The  seeond  show  was  held  in  the  Horticultural 
Hall  on  Wednesday,  the  28th  ult.,  and  readers 
of  The  Garden  will  be  proud  and  glad  to  know 
that  their  show  this  year  far  and  away  surpassed 
in  excellence  and  interest  that  of  last  year.  The 
immense  hall  was  completely  filled  with  magnifi- 
cent collections  of  flowers,  fruit  and  vegetables, 
collections  which  would  have  done  credit  to 
any  show  in  the  land.  The  exhibits  were  so 
numerous  that  the  annexes  of  the  hall,  the 
council  chamber,  and  one  of  the  committee-rooms 
had  to  be  filled.  Exhibits  were  received  from 
as  far  North  as  Aberdeen,  and  from  Plymouth  in 
the  South,  and  some  even  came  from  Ireland, 
over  1,500  distinct  exhibits  being  entered  by 
229  exhibitors. 

The  exhibits  were  divided  into  six  sections. 
That  devoted  to  Sweet  Peas  formed  a  delightful 
exhibition  in  itself,  second  only  in  importance 
and  interest  to  the  show  held  by  the  National 
Sweet  Pea  Society  in  the  same  hall  the  previous 
week.  Those  readers  of  The  Garden  who  had 
not  the  pleasure  of  being  present  can  picture  to 
themselves  the  splendid  effect  produced  by  this 
section  of  the  show  alone,  a  slight  idea  of  its 
beauty  being  shov^n  in  an  illustration  on  another 
page. 

The  Garden  is  specially  to  be  congratulated 
on  the  extent  and  excellence  of  the  collections 
and  bunches  of  hardy  border  flowers  exhibited. 
Old  readers  of  the  paper  will  know  the  valiant 
and  persistent  fight  made  in  The  Garden  for 
the  extended  growth  and  use  of  these  plants  in 
garden  decoration  in  preference  to  the  half-hardy 
and  tender  plants  then  so  universally  used. 
What  a  change  has  come  over  our  gardens  in 
this  respect  since  then  !  Hardy  flowers  to-day 
are  the  most  popular  of  all  flowers,  and  every 
conceivable  species  and  variety  in  season  were  to 
be  seen  at  this  show.  The  section  for  annual 
flowers  brought  forth  some  interesting  and  beauti- 
ful exhibits,  showing  in  a  praotioal  form  how  a 
garden  may  be  planted  and  made  bright  and 
beautiful,  even  by  the  poorest,  at  a  cost  of  a 
shilling  or  two. 


Roses  numbered  about  1,500  blooms,  several 
of  our  leading  growers  exhibiting.  This  has  been 
a  singularly  unfortunate  Rose  season  on  account 
of  bad  weather  ;  nevertheless,  this  section  proved 
most  attractive,  more  than  filling  one  of  the 
stages  the  whole  length  of  the  hall,  and  among 
the  blooms  were  many  of  the  highest  excellence. 
I  should  like  to  see  the  Carnation  section 
strengthened  by  the  ofier  of  better  prizes  next 
year,  if  possible.  The  show  is  held  at  a  time 
when  the  Carnation  is  at  its  best.  This  flower 
is  now  almost  as  popular  as  the  Rose,  is  quite 
as  hardy,  and  is  within  the  reach  of  all.  After 
saying  this  it  must  not  be  thought  that  this  flower 
was  not  well  represented.  There  were  several 
splendid  exhibits,  the  flowers  in  many  oases 
showing  the  highest  possible  form  of  culture. 

Table  decorations,  like  the  Sweet  Peas,  formed 
an  exhibition  in  themselves,  over  fifty  tables 
being  on  view.  It  is  easier  to  imagine  than 
to  describe  the  delightful,  artistic  and  beautiful 
effect  produced  by  them,  arranged  as  they  were 
in  three  rows,  side  by  side,  the  whole  length  of 
the  hall.  All  were  beautiful  ;  but  some  examples 
were  perfection  in  the  simplicity  and  beauty  of 
the  disposition  of  the  flowers  as  well  as  in  the 
harmony  and  colouring  of  the  blooms  used, 
the  Sweet  Pea  greatly  predominating.  The 
fruit  classes,  with  the  exception  of  that  provided 
for  nine  kinds  of  fruit,  were  composed  of  out- 
door hardy  fruit,  and  in  the  absence  of  large 
sorts,  such  as  Apples  and  Pears  (it  is  too  early 
for  them),  this  section  did  not  present  an  over- 
bold appearance,  and  was  chiefly  confined  to 
such  useful  fruits  as  Gooseberries,  Currants, 
Raspberries,  Loganberries,  Strawberries,  &o., 
many  of  the  collections  and  dishes  showing  the 
highest  standard  of  culture. 

In  the  estimation  of  many,  the  most  important 
and  notable  section  of  the  show  was  that  devoted 
to  vegetables.  The  whole  of  the  large  council 
chamber,  some  of  the  annexes  and  the  committee- 
room  had  to  be  requisitioned  ts  aceommodate 
these  exhibits.  There  were  upwards  of  twenty 
collections  in  the  various  classes,  and  endless 
smaller  exhibits  and  single  dishes.  Some  of  the 
more  important  collections  were  composed  of 
splendid  examples  of  vegetables  now  in  season. 

I  congratulate  the  Proprietors  on  the  great  suc- 
cess of  their  second  show.  This  success,  I  think, 
is  a  practical  proof  of  the  hold  The  Garden  has 
upon  its  readers,  and  is  also  a  proof  of  the  excel- 
lence and  value  of  the  teaching  emanating  from 
its  pages  week  by  week  on  every  aspect  of 
practical  horticulture.  Too  little  importance  is 
attached  to  the  service  horticultural  journalism 
in  England  has  rendered  in  teaching,  fostering 
and  bringing  the  art  of  gardening  to  the  perfec- 
tion and  popularity  it  stands  to-day.      Looked 


382 


THE     GARDEN. 


[August  7,  1909. 


at  from  many  points  of  view,  a  beautiful  exhi- 
bition such  as  this  was  is  calculated  to  teach 
many  and  valuable  lessons,  and  I  hope  it  may  be 
long  continued  and  that  other  gardening  journals 
may  be  induced  to  follow  the  example  set.  We 
cannot  have  too  many  of  such  exhibitions.  I  was 
much  pleased  and  impressed  by  the  zeal,  earnest- 
ness and  enthusiasm  shown  by  all  the  exhibitors 
in  the  staging  of  their  exhibits,  each  one 
seemingl}  putting  up  his  or  her  own  with  as 
much  care  and  pride  as  if  their  very  li  f e  afterwards 
depended  on  the  result.  Owen  Thomas. 


PRIZES    FOR    READERS. 

JUNE  COMPETITION— AWARDS. 
In  this  competition  prizes  were  offered  for  the 
best  essays  on  "  The  principal  insect  friends  and 
foes  of  the  garden,  and  the  best  means  of  exter- 
minating the  latter."  Owing  to  the  large  number 
of  essays  sent  in,  and  the  diffienlty  in  judging 
them,  we  have  not  been  able  to  publish  the 
names  of  the  prize-winners  earlier.  The  first 
prize  essay  we  hope  to  publish  next  week.  The 
awards  are  as  follow  : 

First  prize  of  four  guineas  to  Mr.  F.  Lansdell, 
Desford,  Leicester. 

Second  prize  of  two  guineas  to  Mr.  G.   H. 
Webster,  Oak  Cottage,  Woolton,  Liverpool. 

Third  prize  of  one  guinea  to  Mr.  F.  G.  L.  Moir, 
Midhurst,  Glossop  Road,  Sanderstead,  Surrey. 

Fourth  prize  of  half-a-guinea  to   Mr.  S.  N. 
Lockington,  Clarendon  Road,  Ashford,  Middlesex. 


NOTES  OF    THE  WEEK 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

August  11. — Bishop's  Stortford  Horticultural 
Society's  Exhibition. 

August  18. — Shrewsbury  Horticultural 
Society's  Exhibition  (two  days). 


The    Velteh     Portrait    Fund.— A 

large  number  of  subscriptions  to  the  fund  ar- 
ranged for  the  portrait  of  Mr.  Harry  J.  Veitch, 
V.M.H.,  have  been  received,  and  it  is  proposed 
to  hang  this  portrait  in  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  building  at  Vincent  Square,  West- 
minster. It  is  suggested  that  a  replica  of  the 
portrait  be  presented  to  Mrs.  Veitch  and  a 
photogravure  of  it  to  every  subscriber  of  £1  Is. 
and  upwards.  The  list  of  subscribers  will  be 
definitely  closed  on  Saturday,  August  14. 

Effects  of  the  winter  on  trees 
and  shrubs  at  Kew.— The  Kew  Bulletin 
No.  li  contains  a  most  instructive  and  useful 
article  by  Mr.  W.  J.  Bean  on  the  effects  of  the 
winter  on  the  trees  and  shrubs  at  Kew.  Many 
of  the  n«w  or  rare  Chinese  shrubs  came  through 
the  winter  unharmed,  among  these  being  Davidia 
involuorata,  Ailanthus  Vilmorinii,  Liriodendron 
chinensis,  Eucommia  ulmoides  (a  plant  that  may 
prove  useful  as  a  source  for  rubber),  Berberis 
Wilsonfe,  Cotoneaster  adprassa,  Viburnum 
Carlesii,  V.  rhytidophyllum,  Rosa  Hugonis, 
Schizophragma  integrifolia  and  Sophora  vioiifolia. 

The  Bssex  County  Laboratories, 

Chelmsford. — A  movement  is  on  foot  to 
establish  an  Old  Students'  Club  at  the  above- 
named  laboratories,  and  we  understand  a  journal 
will  be  published  each  month.  We  have  had 
an  opportunity  of  glancing  through  an  advance 
copy  of  the  first  number  of  this  journal,  and  find  it 
full  of  useful  and  interesting  notes.  Among 
others,  the  articles  on  Nature-study  Training  for 
Teachers,  Prevention  of  Potato  Disease,  the  Eflfeet 
of  Potash  on  Beetroot,  Names  and  Enlarged  Illus- 
trations of  Weeds,  Seasonable  Work  in  the 
Fruit  Garden  and  Injurious  Insects  are  of 
particular  interest  to  those  whose  duties 
frequently  take  them  in  the  garden.  The 
illustrations  are  exceedingly  well  done,  and  we 
wish  this  ijew  venture  every  success, 


Reading:    Gardeners'   Annual 

Kxcurslon. — The  Reading  Gardeners'  Asso- 
ciation is  again  to  be  congratulated  on  bringing 
to  a  most  successful  issue  another  annual 
excursion  on  Thursday,  July  15,  when  bv  kind 
permission  of  Lord  and  Lady  Northcliffe,  Sutton 
Place,  their  delightful  and  historic  place  near 
Guildford,  was  visited.  On  arriving  at  Sutton 
Place  they  were  met  by  Lord  Northcliffe's 
resident  agent,  Mr.  Kay,  and  the  head-gardener, 
Mr.  Goatley.  A  tour  of  the  extensive  and 
beautiful  gardens  at  onoe  commenced,  the 
visitors  being  first  taken  through  a  portion  of  the 
xperimental  farm,  which  their  fellow-member, 
Mr.  Charles  Foster,  reeently  inaugurated  for 
Lord  N»rthcliffe,  then  into  the  kitchen  and  walled 
gardens,  everything  seen  being  in  a  perfect 
degree  of  cultivation.  The  lawns  and  pleasure 
grounds  surrounding  the  mansion  were  next 
visited.  Luncheon,  generously  provided  by 
Lord  and  Lady  Northcliffe,  was  taken  at  1..S0 
p.m.  Mr.  Kay  presided,  and  was  supported  by 
Mr.  Alderman  Parfitt,  Mr.  Leonard  Sutton  (vice- 
president,  who  arrived  by  motor),  Mr.  W.  Pole 
Routh,  Mr.  J.  Goatley,  &o.  The  company  were 
then  conducted  by  Mr.  Goatley  to  (from  a  pro- 
fessional point  of  view)  the  most  charming 
feature  of  Sutton  Place,  viz.,  the  glorious  and 
extensive  wild  garden,  where,  note-boek  in  hand, 
many  of  the  members  were  content  to  pass  the 
remainder  of  the  day. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(Tlie  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 


Late-sown  Peas  rotting:  in  the 
soli. — I  have  during  the  last  few  years  found 
that  late-sown  garden  Peas  have  failed,  the  seeds 
rotting  in  the  soil.  I  put  some  in  on  July  3,  and 
only  very  few  show  signs  of  life.  Peas  sown 
earlier,  but  otherwise  under  the  same  conditions, 
do  very  well.  I  shall  be  very  interested  to 
know  if  other  readers  of  The  Garden  have  had 
similar  experiences,  and  to  hear  what  they  think 
of  it. — West  Dorset. 

An  effective  pergfola  at  Chelten- 
ham.— So  many  people  admire  my  pergola 
here  that  I  venture  to  send  you  a  photograph  of 
it  as  it  is  now  and  another  view  showing  the  plan 
of  it  as  it  was  four  years  ago.  The  Roses  shown 
are  chiefly  Climbing  Testout,  Mrs.  Cox,  A.  Stella 
Gray,  Teplitz,  R.  Henriette,  &c.  It  is  to  me  a 
wonderful  instance  of  less  than  five  years'  growth 
in  a  garden  which  a  few  months  previously  was 
practically  a  builder's  yard  covered  with  builder's 
plant. — (Rev.)  H.  E.  Hodson,  The  Moors, 
Churchdoum,  Cheltenham. 

How  to  burn  ballast.— Can  you  or 

any  of  your  readers  tell  me  how  to  burn  ballast 
black  and  not  red,  i.e.,  not  to  burn  it  hard?  I 
want  it  for  digging  in  to  lighten  heavy  elay  for 
Roses.  I  get  my  idea  from  the  Rev.  Foster- 
Melliar's  "  Book  of  the  Rose "  and  other  well- 
known  authorities,  the  object  being,  as  they  say, 
to  char  the  clay  black  and  not  burn  it  red,  and  so 
not  take  all  the  manurial  value  out  of  the  clay 
and  yet,  at  the  same  time,  make  it  friable 
enough  to  mix  well  with  the  soil.  I  know,  of 
course,  how  to  bum  ballast  in  the  ordinary  way. 
— Gilbert  C.  Oakley. 
An  Interesting:  Rose  walk.— On  the 

high  land  which  lies  to  the  west  of  the  district  of 
Purley,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Caterham  valley,  a 
gentleman  desirous  of  converting  his  estate  into 
a  residential  district  laid  out  broad,  well-kerbed 
roads.  On  one  part,  and  about  half  a  mile  in 
length,  is  what  is  known  as  the  Rose  Walk.  It 
margins  or  consists  of  a  very  broad  road,  fenced 
on  each  side  by  wire-netting  some  5  feet  in  height, 
and  within  each  fence  is  a  raised  grass  bank 
about  2i  feet  in  height  and  2  feet  across  the 
tops.  This  is  kept  well.  Now  within  these 
grass  banks  are  borders  some  S  feet  in   width, 


and  almost  continuously  throughout  planted  with 
dwarf  bush  and  climbing  Roses,  the  latter 
coming  at  the  back.  As  the  lane  behind  is  offered 
for  building  sites,  the  few  breaks  in  the  Rose 
border  are  mere  roadways  into  these  sites.  The 
position  is  a  very  elevated  one,  and  enjoys  a 
glorious  atmosphere.  The  walk  presents  one 
of  the  most  interesting  and  beautiful  Rose 
displays  absolutely  public  to  be  found  in  the 
kingdom. 

Grapes  at  Wlsley.— That  interest  in 
Grapes  is  far  from  being  dead  is  well  evidenced 
in  the  number  of  visitors  just  now  to  Wisley 
Gardens,  where  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
has  again  this  year  one  of  the  most  useful  and 
instructive  trials  of  Grapes  to  be  found  probably 
in  the  world.  Putting  aside  the  outdoor  vine- 
yard, which,  during  such  a  season  as  the  present, 
cannot  be  a  success,  but  confining  one's  interest 
to  the  large  span  vinery,  which  contains  forty 
Vines  all  diversely  named  and  in  form,  there  is 
ample  food  for  study.  There  in  this  one  house, 
planted  in  similar  soil,  similarly  trained  and  all 
subject  to  the  same  temperature,  are  Grape 
Vines  of  the  highest  flavour  producing  fruit, 
such  as  the  Frontignans,  Muscats,  Hamburghs  and 
others  down  to  Alicantes  and  Lady  Downes,  yet 
all  doing  wonderfully  well  and  fruiting  superbly. 
The  bad-setting  Cannon  Hall  Muscat  there  sets 
freely,  due,  perhaps,  to  the  presenee  of  plenty  of 
free  pollen-bearers  close  by.  In  two  or  three 
weeks  this  collection  will  indeed  be  well  worth 
a  visit. 

The  proposed  International 
Horticultural  Exhibition.  —  The 
suggestion  that  a  great  horticultural  exhibi- 
tion be  organised  in  London  in  the  year  1911 
cannot  fail  to  arouse  the  greatest  interest.  Of 
course,  so  great  an  undertaking  will  have  to  be 
thoroughly  faced  in  all  its  bearings,  and  among 
other  things  to  ensure  its  complete  suecess  the 
services  of  the  Press  of  this  country,  and  especi- 
ally that  of  London,  will  have  to  be  fully  utilised. 
When  the  previous  International  Exhibition  was 
held  in  1866,  fixed  originally  for  one  week  only, 
that  first  week  showed  a  comparative  loss  ;  but 
with  the  aid  of  exhibitors  generally  it  was  agreed 
to  continue  it  a  second  week,  and  then  it  became 
a  great  financial  success.  It  took  one  week  to 
make  the  public  familiar  with  its  existence.  In 
1911  the  Press  should  be  used  to  its  utmost 
capacity  to  make  the  show  fully  known  before 
it  is  opened.  The  matter  will  then  doubtless 
receive  ample  attention.  An  International  Ex- 
hibition now  should  excel  that  of  1866  some 
200  per  cent. ,  for  horticulture  has  made  enormous 
strides  during  the  past  forty-three  years. — D. 

Strawberries  in  1909.— The  present 

season  has  been  a  most  excellent  one  for  testing 
the  cropping  qualities  of  the  many  varieties  of 
Strawberries  now  in  commerce.  In  these  gardens, 
where  we  have  a  heavy,  retentive  soil,  and 
an  altitude  of  500  feet  above  sea-level,  all 
varieties  under  cultivation  have  carried  huge 
crops.  Fillbasket,  although  not  so  early  by  ten 
days  as  Royal  Sovereign,  has  exceeded  this 
useful  variety,  some  of  the  plants  carrying  fifty 
sprays  and  over  of  fruit.  Laxton's  Reward  has 
given  us  the  finest  fruits,  many  measuring 
7  inches  and  8  inches  in  circumference.  President, 
which  is  a  great  favourite  here,  and  follows 
closely  Royal  Sovereign,  has  given  a  splendid 
account  of  itself,  both  in  quantity  and  quality, 
while  Givon's  Late,  to  my  mind  the  best  of 
late  varieties,  looks  like  giving  us  first-class 
fruits  for  some  time  to  come.  Foreseeing  the 
heavy  crop  and  fearing  the  weather,  I  was 
tempted  to  give  a  liberal  dressing  of  patent 
manure,  afterwards  earthing  -  up  the  plants. 
Needless  to  say,  the  manuring  has  paid  for  itself, 
and  the  latter  treatment,  although  not  generally 
adopted,  is  to  be  highly  recommended.  The 
replacing  of  the  earth  from  the  middle  of  the 
rows  to  the  plants  makes  an  excellent  mulch 
and  gives  more  air  space,  which  is  very  necessary 
in  so  sunless  a  season  as  the  prepent. — G. 
Burrows,  Shendish  Oardens,  Hemel  Hempstead, 


August  7,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


383 


THE    DELPHINIUM. 

A  NOBLE  flower  is  the  Delphinium,  or 
perennial  Larkspur.  It  has  dignity 
of  growth,  Aoanthus-like  foliage  of 
many  shades  of  green,  and  a  be- 
wildering variety  of  blue  shades  of 
colour.  And  is  not  blue  a  colour 
that  appeals  strongly  to  those  who  wish  to  create 
beautiful  effects  in  the  garden  ?  There  is  the  blue 
of  the  Lobelia,  the  blue  of  the  Anchusa,  and  the 
blue  of  the  Phaoelia,  but  not  the  gradations  of 
shades  that  the  modern  Delphinium  presents, 
from  the  flower  that  seems  as  if  a  bit  of  the 
summer  sky  had  dropped  upon  the  slender  stems 
to  those  kinds  with  lurid  purple  and  dull  rose 
centres — intense,  mystifying  almost,  and  splendid. 
These  thoughts  occurred  when  in  Messrs. 
Kelway's  nursery  at  Langport  a  few  days  ago, 
and  one  may  mention  in  passing,  as  other  notes 
will  reveal,  that  this  is  not  a  nursery  of  a  few 
things,  but  represents  horticulture  in  the 
broadest  sense.  The  Delphinium  has  been 
selected  on  this  occasion  for  the  reason  that  its 
sheaves  of  flowers  give  colour  wherever  the  plants 
are  placed.  There  is  a  nice  sapphire  blue  in 
front  of  the  shrubbery,  groups  in  the  border,  and 
a  misty  forest  of  spikes  that  is  never  wearisome. 
We  owe  a  debt  of  lasting  gratitude  to  Messrs. 
Kelway  for  giving  so  bountiful  a  selection  of  this 
stately  perennial,  which  may  be  grouped  in  many 
tasteful  ways  with  shrubby  plants — of  which  we 
may  regard  the  Spirfeas  as  a  type — among  ever- 
green shrubs  to  break  up  the  surface  of  monoto- 
nous green  leaves,  and  massed  together  in  the 
border.  As  we  have  mentioned  on  previous 
occasions,  it  is  always  more  satisfactory  to  choose 
the  varieties  when  they  are  in  flower  ;  descrip- 
tions seldom  convey  to  the  mind  the  true  beauty 
of  the  flower. 

With  regard  to  the  cultivation  of  the  Del- 
phinium, this,  as  Messrs.  Kelway  point  out  in  their 
excellent "  Manual  of  Horticulture,  "is  very  simple 
and  the  results  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  slight 
amount  of  care  necessary.  They  thrive  in  almost 
any  position,  and  may  be  planted  at  any  time  of 
the  year,  provided  that  in  summer  the  plants  are 
not  too  forward  and  that  they  are  well  watered 
in  dry  weather  ;  September,  October,  February, 
March  and  April  are,  perhaps,  the  best  months 
for  planting.  A  rich  friable  loam  will  suit  them 
well,  but  any  soil,  even  hot  and  sandy,  if  well 
watered  and  manured,  will  give  excellent  results. 
Dig  deeply — trenching  is  better — add  plenty  of 
well-rotted  manure  and  plant  about  2J  feet  to 
4  feet  apart.  Placed  in  lines  as  a  background  to 
a  border,  or  in  groups  of,  say,  three  plants  at 
intervals  in  a  border,  the  effect  of  the  Delphinium 
is  magnificent.  A  lane  or  avenue  of  Delphiniums 
ornamenting  a  drive  or  straight  walk  is  very 
beautiful. 

They  look  well  in  beds  also,  arranged  the 
same  distance  apart  each  way.  They  are  superb 
when  grown  in  masses  or  large  groups  of  separate 
colours,  and  may  be  associated  with  shrubs  with 
great  advantage,  succeeding  well  in  shrubberies 
owing  to  their  robustness.  A  succession  of 
flowers  may  be  expected  from  spring  to  early 
autumn,  especially  if  the  soil  is  well  prepared 
and  not  allowed  to  get  too  dry  and  the  spikes 
which  have  done  flowering  early  cut  down  to  the 
ground ;  fresh  growth  will  then  be  produced, 
which  will  give  further  blossom.  Handsome 
spikes  of  bloom  have  appeared  at  Langport  in 
the  latter  days  of  November.  Copious  watering 
in  summer  will  be  attended  by  increased  size  in 
spike  and  flower  ;  in  fact,  in  seasons  of  prolonged 
drought  and  on  some  soils,  water  is  absolutely  a 
necessity  if  the  varieties  are  to  exhibit  them- 
selves in  their  true  size  and  beauty  of  flower  and 
spike.  Top-dressing  is  greatly  recommended  on 
certain  soils  instead  of  the  bare  surface  of  the 
ground  being  left  exposed  to  the  sun.  Some  of 
the  neater  dwarf  alpine  and  other  small  hardy 
plants  may  be  utilised  to  plant  between  and 
around  the  Delphiniums.  Coal-ashes  strewn 
over   the  crowns  will  protect  the  plants  from 


slugs  through  winter  and  spring.     This  is  the 
culture  of  the  Delphinium  in  a  nutshell. 

The  varieties  are  almost  legion  in  number,  so 
much  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  selection 
without  leaving  out  some  of  rich  beauty  and  dis- 
tinctness. Christine  Kelway,  a  lovely  sky 
blue  flower,  single,  reminds  one  of  Belladonna, 
but  it  is  stronger  and  freer.  This  should  displace 
the  older  form,  and  a  group  of  it  is  as  fair  a 
picture  as  can  be  seen  in  the  late  summer  days 
and  early  autumn.  There  is  a  fascination  about 
these  delicate  tints  ;  we  have  nothing  so  fair  in 
the  world  of  flowers.  Huist  Beauty,  deep  blue, 
with  a  purplish  edge  and  white  centre,  may  be 
detected  in  a  throng  of  its  fellows ;  and  others,  all 
of  soft  or  rich  colours,  that  may  be  noted 
are  Kelway's  Blue,  Knight  of  Langport,  Lang- 
port Blue,  Summer  Sky,  Zinfandel,  Britannia  (a 
flower  as  rich  as  the  Gentian  in  colour).  Constitu- 
tion, Edward  VII. ,  King  of  Delphiniums  (a  well- 
named  hybrid,  gentian  blue  and  a  warm  plum 
shade),  Queen  Alexandra,  Sir  George  Newnes,  True 
Blue  (a  delightfully  pure  blue)  and  Persimmon, 
(a  Delphinium  to  group  freely,  the  flower 
single,  with  a  cylindrical  spike  lined  with  pale 
bloom  petals  that  surpass  in  delicacy  of  shade 
even  those  of  Belladonna) ;  and  then  there  are  the 
exquisite  white  Delphiniums,  for  the  raising  of 
which  the  warmest  thanks  are  due  to  Messrs. 
Kelway.  The  white  Delphiniums  now  form  a 
distinct  and  beautiful  class,  and  Phyllis  Kelway, 
Ivory  Queen,  Beauty  of  Langport,  Primrose  and 
Princess  of  Wales  are  either  white  or  softest 
primrose. 

The  Delphiniums  we  have  mentioned  are 
merely  a  few  that  seemed  the  most  conspicuous 
in  a  wonderf  nl  array  of  hybrids  ;  there  are  others 
of  equal  distinction,  but  to  do  full  justice  to  the 
beautiful  hybrids  here  would  require  something 
more  than  a  treatise. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

SOME    GOOD     WHITE  -  FLOWERING 
SHRUBS. 

FLOWERING  shrubs  are  among  the 
most  beautiful  objects  which  adorn 
our  gardens,  and  the  sight  of  their 
flower-laden  boughs  gives  pleasure 
to  everyone.  So  many  have  the 
merit  of  excellence  in  being  free- 
flowering  and  easy  to  grow  that  amateurs 
may  often  have  some  difficulty  in  making 
a  selection  which  will  meet  their  own  re- 
quirements, particularly  so  if  the  space  is 
limited.  In  making  a  short  selection  of  six 
white-flowered,  deciduous  shrubs,  I  have  chiefly 
in  mind  the  requirements  of  beginners,  who,  if 
they  once  learn  to  appreciate  the  floral  beauty 
of  a  few  shrubs,  will  experiment  with  them  in 
various  positions  and  so  extend  their  collection. 

The  best  and  earliest  Spiriea  to  flower  is  S. 
arguta.  This  shrub  seldom  exceeds  4  feet  in 
height,  and  is  often  as  much  through.  It  forms 
a  thicket  of  slender,  twiggy,  nut  brown  branches 
crowded  with  buds,  from  which  the  flowers  are 
produced  in  the  form  of  small  buttons  arranged 
in  bunches,  which  clothe  the  entire  length  of  the 
branches  ;  it  flowers  during  April. 

The  white  form  of  Cydonia  Maulei  is  an 
excellent  shrub  requiring  very  little  space  when 
grown  in  the  open.  The  flowers  come  freely  on 
small  plants,  and  these  are  suggestive  of  well- 
expanded  Apple  blossom,  the  stamens  in  the 
centre  of  the  flowers  making  a  very  pretty  effect. 

Cerasus  Avium  multiplex  is  the  double  white 
form  of  the  common  Gean,  and  is  most  effective 
as  a  standard  tree  on  the  lawn ;  it  can  also  be 
grown  as  a  bush,  and  where  space  is  limited  this 
form  will  be  most  suitable,  as  it  can  then  be  used 
as  a  centre  for  flower-beds  or  as  a  specimen  on 
the  grass.  This  plant  is  typical  of  a  group  which 
includes  Cherry,  Plum,  Peach,  Apple  and  Pear, 
among  which  occur  the  freest  and  richest-coloured 
of  spring-flowering  shrubs. 


The  best  Snowball  Tree  for  the  open  is  Viburnum 
plicatum,  a  Japanese  species  having  all  the 
flowers  sterile  and  collected  into  heads  in  the 
form  of  miniature  snowballs.  The  flowers  aije 
borne  upon  the  upper  side  of  the  branches, 
generally  in  pairs,  and  when  established  specimens 
are  in  flower  it  is  difficult  to  detect  the  foliage 
among  the  quantity  of  flowers  which  literally 
cover  the  trees.  In  autumn  the  leaves  change  to 
various  tints  of  orange,  red  and  yellow. 

The  Mock  Oranges  are  noted  among  shrubs  for 
their  fragrant  flowers.  Philadelphus  grandi- 
florus  has  very  large  white  flowers,  richly 
fragrant.  It  requires  a  large  piece  of  ground  to 
do  itself  justice,  and,  failing  this,  one  of  the  dwarf 
hybrid  Mock  Oranges  would  give  greater  satis- 
faction. The  variety  known  as  Gerbe  de  Neige 
is  much  dwarfer,  with  flowers  of  the  same  purity 
and  fragrance  ;  or  purpurea  maculata  would  be 
equally  suitable.  In  this  variety  the  base  of  each 
petal  is  stained  wine  colour.  These  Phila- 
delphuses  are  beautiful  in  masses,  and  as  their 
habit  is  dwarf  they  require  very  little  space  to 
grow  them  to  give  the  best  effect. 

The  last  white-flowered  shrub  I  intend  to 
name  is  the  Syringa  of  botany,  and  known  in 
gardens  as  the  Lilac.  Of  many  new  varieties 
which  have  recently  eome  to  our  gardens  the  best 
include  Mme.  Lemoine  and  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
having  pure  white  double  flowers ;  Mme.  Casimir- 
Perier,  cream,  double ;  and  Marie  Legraye,  single 
white.  All  of  these  are  justly  admired  for  their 
large  blooms  and  enormous  flower-heads,  yet 
none  of  them  equals  in  fragrance  the  vulgaris 
grandiflora  of  gardens,  this  being  a  form  of  the 
wild  Lilac  which  produces  individual  flowers  of 
great  purity  and  substance,  richly  scented  and 
altogether  superior  to  the  ordinary  Lilac. 

Walmsgate  Oardens.  Thomas  Smith. 


BEECH    DISEASE    AND    ITS    TKEAT- 

MENT. 
[In  anmver  to  a  Correspondent.] 
The  disease  to  which  your  correspondent 
draws  attention  is  caused  by  a  scale  insect 
known  as  Cryptococcus  fagi,  or  the  Felted 
Beech  Coccus.  It  is  a  very  small  insect, 
scarcely  discernible  to  the  naked  eye,  but  its 
presence  is  very  conspicuous  by  reason  of  the 
white  waxy  substance  which  exudes  from  its 
body.  Two  stages  in  its  life-history  are  known 
— the  immature  insects  which  may,  with  the  aid 
of  a  lens,  be  detected  running  about  the  trunks 
of  trees  in  summer,  and  the  mature  insects 
which  do  not  move.  Reproduction  is  very  rapid 
during  summer,  but  the  insects  appear  to  be 
more  or  less  dormant  during  late  autumn,  winter 
and  early  spring.  Male  insects  have  not  been 
detected  and  mature  insects  are  parthenogenetic. 
These  parthenogenetic  females  are  yellowish  in 
colour  and  rounded,  with  flattened  surfaces. 
Near  the  head  they  have  a  sucking  apparatus  by 
which  they  obtain  sustenance  from  the  tree.  The 
young  move  about  fairly  rapidly  and  quickly 
spread  the  disease.  Some  are  content  to  stay 
near  the  parents,  and  others  select  new  quarters 
in  cracks  and  crevices  in  the  bark.  They,  like 
the  parents,  quickly  cover  themselves  with  wax, 
which  acts  as  a  protection  against  rain.  The 
continued  reproduction  of  the  insects  and  the  fact 
of  many  taking  up  their  abode  with  the  parents 
causes,  in  course  of  time,  a  thick,  white,  felty 
mass  -^hich,  in  some  rnstanees,  completely  covers 
the  trunks  of  the  trees. 

Very  little  is  known  as  to  the  direct  way  in 
which  the  trees  are  injured,  whether  the  insects 
are  able  to  extract  the  sap  from  the  bark  with- 
out any  previous  preparation,  or  whether  they 
are  able  to  set  up  a  ferment  which  has  the  effect 
of  softening  a  minute  patch  of  bark.  The  action 
of  the  disease  is  also  curious,  for,  while  it  has 
been  known  to  exist  in  some  places  for  upwards 
of  twenty  years,  it  was  practically  stationary 
until  three  or  four  years  ago,  and  is  now  spreading 
rapidly.  Some  trees,  on  the  other  hand,  that 
did  not  show  a  sign  of  the  disease  until  four  or 


384 


THE     GARDEN. 


[August  7,  1909. 


five  years  ago  are  now  practically  white  all  over. 
Badly  affected  trees  sometimes  show  very  little 
sign  of  ill-health  ;  others,  again,  quickly  become 
poor  and  yellow  about  the  tops,  and  patches  of 
bark  fall  off,  to  be  followed  shortly  by  the  death 
of  the  trees. 

In  some  Continental  countries  this  disease  has 
caused  considerable  anxiety  for  a  long  while,  but 
in  England  it  is  only  within  the  last  few  years 
that  people  have  begun  to  pay  it  any  real  atten- 
tion, and  even  now  many  owners  of  trees 
appear  to  be  very  apathetic  over  it,  while  others 
fully  realise  the  seriousness  of  the  situation. 
While,  however,  one  person  is  trying  to  stamp 
the  disease  out  on  his  estate  and  his  neigh- 
bour is  allowing  it  to  increase,  very  little  can 
be  done  to  effect  a  cure,  for  the  disease  is 
doubtless  carried  about  by  various  agencies,  such 
as  wind,  birds,  squirrels  and  other  things.  It  is 
quite  likely  that  squirrels  are  largely  responsible 
for  the  spread  of  the  disease  by  getting  the 
waxy  particles  containing  insects  among  their 
fur. 

Several  methods  have  been  adopted  for  dealing 
with  the  pest.  One  which  was  highly  recom- 
mended a  short  time  ago  was  scrubbing  the 
trunks  with  an  insecticide  composed  of  soft  soap, 
paraffin  and  water.  This,  however,  cannot  be 
considered  a  practical  solution  of  the  difficulty, 
for,  while  it  may  do  well  enough  for  a  few  orna- 
mental trees,  it  is  too  expensive  an  operation  to 
practise  on  a  large  scale.  Spraying  appears  to 
be  the  most  practicable  way  of  dealing  with  the 
pest,  and  this  ought  to  be  done  in  summer  with 
a  paraffin  wash  or  in  early  autumn,  just  as  the 
leaves  are  commencing  to  fall,  with  a  caustic 
wash.  The  former  wash  may  be  made  up  of  lib. 
of  soft  soap,  12  pints  of  paraffin  and  20  gallons 
of  soft  or  warm  water.  The  soap  should  be 
dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water  and  the  paraffin 
stirred  into  it  to  form  a  creamy  liquid  ;  this 
should  thcB  be  introduced  into  the  clear  water 
by  means  of  a  fine  spray.  Mix  thoroughly  and 
apply  as  a  wash  to  trunks  and  branches  through 
a  powerful  spraying-machine.  The  caustic  wash 
is  made  up  of  the  same  quantities  of  paraffin, 
soft  soap  and  water,  with  the  addition  of  41b.  of 
caustic  soda  (98  per  cent.).  This  is  by  far  the 
most  effective  wash,  but  must  be  used  with  care. 
The  person  using  the  wash  should  select  a  calm 
day  for  its  application  and  use  indiarubber 
gloves.  The  cost  of  spraying  a  tree  is  about  one- 
twentieth  that  of  scrubbing.  It  may  be  neces- 
sary to  repeat  the  spraying  the  following  year, 
particularly  in  bad  cases  and  where  the  trunks 
are  very  rough.  During  spraying  be  careful  to 
thoroughly  wet  all  parts  of  the  bark,  both  above 
and  beneath  the  branches  and  the  trunk. 
Weaker  solutions  of  soft  soap  and   paraffin   have 


been  tried,  but  have  been  found 
ineffective,  especially  where  the 
disease  had  obtained  a  firm  hold 
and  where  the  fissures  of  the  bark 
were  deep.  These  strong  washes, 
and  even  stronger  ones  than  those 
recommended,  have  not  caused 
injury  to  the  trees ;  but  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  caustic 
wash  cannot  be  used  before  the 
leaves  begin  to  fall,  or  it  will 
damage  them.  Although  the 
caustic  wash  may  be  used  through- 
out winter,  autumn  is  a  better 
time,  as  the  insects  are  then  more 
active.  The  great  point  to  bear 
in  mind  is  that  the  wash  has  to 
be  powerful  enough  to  penetrate 
the  waxy  covering  of  the  insects, 
or  it  will  prove  ineffective.  A 
combined  effort  among  the  pro- 
prietors of  estates  in  a  particular 
district  ought  to  have  the  effect 
of  considerably  lessening  the 
disease,  if  not  quite  eradicating 
it.  The  theory  that  the  disease 
is  brought  about  by  close  planting  does  not  hold 
good,  for  isolated  trees  are  sometimes  quite  as  bad 
as  those  planted  closely  in  woods.  W.  D. 


THE     GREENHOUSE, 


SUMMER-HODSE  AND   PERGOLA   AS    ERECTED    IN    THE   REV. 
H.    E.    HODSON'S  GARDEN.     (See  page  S82.) 


w 


FREESIAS   AND   THEIR   CULTURE. 

ELL-GROWN  pots  of  Freesias 
from  Christmas  onwards  are  not 
very  difficult  to  procure  if  a 
few  cultural  details  are  carried 
out.  These  notes  appear  now 
because,  generally  speaking,  one 
of  the  chief  causes  of  failure  can  so  often  be 
traced  to  too  late  potting,  and  also  because,  for 
Christmas  bloom,  extra  early  potting  is  essential. 
For  this  last  purpose  the  end  of  July  or  the  first 
half  of  August  is  none  too  soon,  while  under  no 
circumstances  should  it  be  delayed  beyond  the 
end  of  September.  The  broad  rule  is  the  "  early 
gardener  gets  the  flowers."  Naturally,  the  largest 
and  firmest  bulbs  give  the  best  results  for 
Christmas  and  January  blooming  ;  in  fact,  unless 
such  can  be  procured  I  would  not  recommend 
anyone  to  try  to  get  flowers  then  ;  the  blooms 
are  sure  to  be  small  and  the  inflorescence  poor 
and  disappointing.  With  small  bulbs,  be  content 
to  get  blooms  in  February  and  March. 

Good  soil  to  use  for  potting  consists  of  light 
loam,   leaf-soil,    well-decayed    cow-manure    and 


THE  SnMMEB-HOCSE  AND   PERGOLA  FOUR  YEARS  LATER,   SHOWING  THE   RESULTS  OF  WISE 

PLANTING.      Set  page  SSS.) 


some  coarse  sand  sufficient  to  keep  the  whole 
open  and  porous.  Six  large-sized  bulbs  may  be 
planted  in  a  .5-inch  pot,  or  nine  or  ten  in  a  6-inch 
pot.  If  the  bulbs  are  small,  two  or  three  more 
may  be  used  in  either  case. 

After  potting,  the  pots  should  be  placed  in  a 
cold  frame,  and  very  little,  if  any,  water  must  be 
given  until  the  new  growths  appear,  and  even 
then  it  must  be  given  sparingly  until  the  plants 
are  removed  to  warmer  quarters.  The  frames 
should  be  shaded  and  kept  rather  close  for  the 
first  ten  days  or  fortnight,  but  directly  the  young 
shoots  appear  the  shading  must  be  removed 
and  the  plants  exposed  to  as  much  fresh  air  as 
possible.  The  lights  are  then  only  placed  on  the 
frame  when  the  weather  is  wet  or  when  slight 
frosts  are  expected  at  night.  If  the  sun  is  very 
bright  and  powerful,  a  little  shading  may  be 
placed  over  the  plants  during  the  hottest  part  of 
the  day. 

When  the  weather  becomes  colder,  and 
before  the  frosts  become  so  severe  that  the  pro- 
tection of  a  frame  is  insufficient  to  ward  them 
off,  the  pots  should  be  removed  to  a  cool  green- 
house, where,  if  this  is  the  only  heated  structure 
available,  part  may  be  put  in  the  warmest  end 
and  part  in  the  coolest  for  succession.  In 
either  case  they  must  have  plenty  of  air.  If 
there  is  a  cool  house  and  also  a  warmer  one,  suo- 
cessional  batches  may  be  moved  from  one  to  the 
other. 

Early  staking,  before  the  growths  have  become 
bent  and  untidy,  is  very  necessary.  Each  plant 
should  have  a  separate  support.  If,  however, 
this  is  impossible,  I  have  seen  very  good  pots  of 
bloom  where  the  thin,  twiggy  ends  of  Birch 
or  Hazel  boughs  have  been  inserted  between 
the  growths  and  some  raffia  run  round  the 
whole,  and  then  the  plants  left  to  grow  as  they 
please. 

When  the  flower-spikes  begin  to  show,  weak 
liquid  manure  and  soot-water  may  be  given  occa- 
sionally, and  this  treatment  should  be  continued 
after  the  flowering  is  over  until  the  foliage  begins 
to  turn  yellow,  when  all  water  must  be  gradually 
withheld.  When  the  leaves  have  quite  died 
down,  the  pots,  with  the  bulbs  in  them,  should  be 
put  on  a  shelf  in  the  greenhouse  or  in  a  cold 
frame,  where  they  may  be  kept  perfectly  dry 
and  at  the  same  time  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sun. 
This  baking  is  necessary,  for  upon  the  proper 
maturing  of  the  bulbs  by  feeding  and  ripening 
depends  the  bloom  of  the  following  year.  To 
sum  up,  the  maxims  for  successful  Freesia  culture 
are  early  potting,  no  plunging  in  ashes  or  fibre, 
little  water  and  abundance  of  air  in  the  first 
stages  of  growth,  early  staking,  occasional 
feeding  and  proper  ripening.  With  due  observ- 
ance of  these  simple  rules  I  think  anyone 
may  have  nice  pots  of  bloom  from  Christmas 
onwards,  Joseph  Jacob. 


August  7,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


385 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


DAFFODIL    NOTES. 
Choice  Varieties  and  Early  Planting. 

THE  coming  of  a  few  early  lists  of  new 
and,  for  the  moat  part,  expensive 
Daffodils,  and  of  special  offers  of  bulbs 
for  early  Ranting,  reminds  me  that 
one  must  begin  to  think  of  what  is 
to  be  bought  for  next  season,  and  as 
soon  as  these  notes  are  in  print  no  time  should  be 
lost  in  ordering  any  of  the  newer  varieties  that 
are  wanted  and  getting  the  ground  ready  for  their 
reception.  Nothing  is  better  than  double  digging, 
adding  in  the  process  some  fine  bones,  or,  if  it  is 
old  garden  soil,  some  slaked  lime  instead.  In 
my  next  notes  I  propose  to  give  the  names  and  a 
short  description  of  about  two  dozen  of  some  of 
the  more  moderate-priced  ones  that  I  can 
recommend  as  good  both  in  quality  and  vigour. 

When  a  collection  is  being  formei  it  is  well  to 
remember  that  when,  in  the  course  of  a  few  years, 
the  numbers  of  the  different  varieties  have 
increased,  and  one  has  got  together  a  little  stock 
of  what  one  likes  best,  they  will  come  in  to 
plant  in  the  borders  and  take  the  place  of  less 
meritorious  sorts.  This  is  why  I  lay  stress  on 
their  being  vigorous  or  good  growers.  When  we 
have  given  £1  or  £1  10s.  for  a  bulb,  we  do  not  like 
to  anticipate  that  in  two  years'  time  all  that  will 
remain  of  our  costly  purchase  will  be  a  label 
with  a  name. 

Although  Daffodils  are  so  accommodating  that 
they  will  give  us  fair  flowers  even  if  they  are 
planted  at  the  end  of  November,  there  is  no 
doubt  at  all  about  the  value  of  early  planting, 
both  in  the  production  of  offsets  and  also  in  the 
quality  and  size  of  the  bloom  produced.  Hence 
the  golden  rule,  "  Plant  as  early  as  you  can." 

Daffodils  at  Christmas  and  the  New  Year. 

If  fairly  good  flowers  are  wanted  for  Christ- 
mas and  the  New  Year,  supplies  should  be 
ordered  at  once,  and  the  bulb  merchant  should 
be  asked  to  send  them  as  soon  as  he  possibly  can. 
If  we  can  get  our  earliest  flowering  bulbs  potted 
or  boxed  before  the  end  of  August,  they  will  have 
every  chance  of  doing  well  and  forming  good 
roots  before  they  are  housed.  In  this  early 
forcing  work  the  production  of  roots  is  all- 
important.  If  there  is  any  doubt  about  it,  the 
pots  should  be  examined  before  being  put  into 
heat.  One  possible  pitfall  I  must  mention, 
and  that  is  a  dry  September.  Very  often  the 
place  chosen  for  plunging  the  pots  (in  ashes  or 
sand)  is  under  a  wall  or  in  some  sheltered  spot 
where  but  little  rain  will  reach  them.  In  such 
seasons  and  oases  they  will  require  a  good  water- 
ing every  now  and  again.  This  seems  a  rather 
simple  matter  to  mention,  but  I  have  heard  of 
experienced  growers  who  in  this  matter  have  been 
caught  napping. 

Another  cultural  detail  which  must  be  care- 
fully attended  to  is  bringing  the  pots  or  boxes 
into  heat.  This  must  be  done  as  gradually  as 
possible,  according  to  the  facilities  of  the  estab- 
lishment. In  my  own  garden  we  put  them  in  a 
cold  frame  at  the  end  of  October  if  the  season  is 
cold  and  wet,  otherwise  we  leave  them  in  the 
open  until  the  beginning  of  the  third  week  in 
November,  when  we  put  them  into  the  green- 
house, the  temperature  of  which  varies  between 
45'  at  night  and  60°  in  the  day,  and  we  never 
have  any  difficulty  in  getting  flowers  for  New 
Year's  Day. 

As  to  varieties,  I  do  not  think  anyone  can  do 
better  than  grow  Henry  Irving  as  a  first  early — 
if  it  comes  from  the  same  place  as  Golden  Spur 
it  is  always  in  flower  a  week  before  it.  For 
second  earlies  I  would  advise  Golden  Spur  and 
obvallaris  (Tenby  Daffodil).  These  are  old,  well- 
tried  varieties  that  are  easily  grown  and  always 
appreciated. 

Last  winter  I  made  some  experiments  with 
bulbs  ripened  in  different  parts  of  the  United 
Kingdom   to  see  if   there  was  any  appreciable 


difference  in  the  forcing  qualities  of  those  that 
came  from  the  North  and  the  South.  Although  I 
do  not  feel  justified  in  saying  much  about  the 
results,  I  think  I  may  say  that  those  which  I 
presume  were  ripened  the  earliest  came  the 
soonest  into  flower.  A  very  large  wholesale  firm 
is,  I  see  from  their  list,  making  a  speciality  of 
bulbs  imported  from  the  South  of  France.  I  hope 
to  grow  some  myself  and  carefully  test  them 
beside  English  and  Dutch  grown  ones.  When 
the  results  appear  I  hope  to  give  readers  the 
benefit  of  my  experience.  Joseph  Jacob. 


THE   HORNED    VIOLET. 

(Viola  cornuta.) 

An  old  garden  plant  once  held  in  high  regard 
because  of  its  value  for  bedding  is  Viola  cornuta 
(the  Horned  Violet),  a  plant  whose  free-flowering 
properties  render  it  of  great  service  for  many 
purposes,  even  if  it  is  less  esteemed  as  a  bedding 
plant  than  in  days  of  yore.  It  is  a  little  lax  in 
its  habit  of  growth,  but  its  true  perennial 
character    and    the    liberality    with    whioh    it 


that  their  propagation  should  now  be  taken 
in  hand  if  strong  young  stock  is  to  be  had  for 
wintering.  It  is  far  better  to  lay  in  a  stock  now 
than  to  depend  on  forced  plants  in  early  spring  ; 
then  work  comes  in  with  a  rush,  and  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  give  these  due  attention  at  that 
busy  season,  and  even  if  it  were,  the  results 
obtained  would  not  prove  so  satisfactory  as  those 
from  cuttings  planted  now. 


THE  YELLOW  GENTIAN. 
(Gentiana  lotea.  ) 
The  emblem  of  ingratitude,  because  often  ill- 
requiting  the  toil  and  care  of  the  gardener 
through  its  death  or  shyness  of  flowering,  the 
yellow  Gentian  (Gentiana  lutea)  is  yet  a  flower 
well  worth  attempting,  as  when  it  does  really 
well  it  is  worth  a  series  of  trials,  although  these 
may,  for  the  most  part,  be  doomed  to  failure. 
Such  were  one's  reflections  on  seeing  a  fine 
plant  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Wellwood  Maxwell, 
Kirkennan,  in  Kirkcudbrightshire,  the  other  day. 
It  caught  my  eye  at  a  distance,  and,  not  thinking 
for  the  moment  of  what  it  was,  it  struck  me  as 


the  hoened  violet  (viola  cornuta)  growing  on  a  bank. 


produces  its  moderate-sized  flowers  of  a  good 
blue  make  it  an  excellent  plant  for  the 
garden.  A  few  clumps  near  the  front  of  the 
border  trailing  over  stones,  where  these  are 
used  as  an  edging  to  the  herbaceous  border, 
or  a  bank  of  this  pretty  Viola,  such  as  that 
shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration,  will 
form  a  beautiful  picture  during  the  flowering 
season,  which  is  for  several  months  from  April 
onwards  on  old  plants.  The  colour  is  purplish 
blue,  but  there  are  white  varieties  of  great 
beauty,  and  a  form  called  Papilio  is  of  much 
service.  At  the  last  Temple  Show  a  deep- 
coloured  variety  was  shown  as  V.  cornuta 
atropurpurea,  and  it  promises  to  be  a  good 
acquisition.  V.  cornuta  comes  freely  from 
seeds,  or  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings  struck 
in  the  same  way  as  the  florists'  Viola  or 
the  Pansy.  It  is  perfectly  perennial,  and  lasts 
for  years  in  good  condition  if  cut  back  after 
blooming.  S.  Arnott. 


PROPAGATING  BEDDING  PLANTS. 
Although  many  of  our  bedding  plants  have  made 
slow  progress  this  season,  it  is  quite   necessary 


possibly  a  glorious  Phlomis.  On  coming  a  little 
nearer,  however,  I  observed  what  it  really  was, 
and  was  delighted  to  come  upon  the  yellow 
Gentian  in  such  good  condition.  The  plant 
itself  was  a  good  one,  giving  plenty  of  its  smooth, 
dull  green  leaves,  and  carrying  two  fine  spikes  of 
yellow  flowers,  arranged  in  the  whorls  so 
characteristic  of  this  species,  and  the  spikes  were 
about  5  feet  high.  It  was  an  unusually  fine 
specimen,  as,  although  it  is  sometimes  seen  as 
much  as  6  feet  high,  this  is  but  seldom  and  in 
unusually  favourable  circumstances,  and  it  is  oft- 
times  not  more  than  3  feet  in  height.  This 
species  is  not  much  in  evidence  in  gardens  at  the 
present  day,  but  it  is  worth  trying  for  its 
distinctness  and  effect  in  the  border.  Hardly 
anyone  not  versed  in  botanical  characters  would 
recognise  it  as  a  Gentian.  Its  cultivation  does 
not  seem  to  require  anything  special  in  the  way 
of  soil,  although  it  often  fails  on  any  soil.  That 
at  Kirkennan  is  a  rather  heavy  loam  on  a  clay 
subsoil,  and  there  it  has  thriven  well  and  has 
given  no  trouble  to  establish.  It  can  be  raised 
from  seeds,  which  are  generally  slow  of  germina- 
tion, and  also  by  division  of  well-established 
plantf.  S.  Arnott. 


386 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[August  7,  1909. 


THE  HERBACEOUS  PxEONIES. 
These  plants  are  almost  indispensable  in  any 
garden,  as  few  flowers  can  vie  with  them  during 
their  season  for  brilliance  of  colour  and  stately 
effect.  Add  to  this  the  fact  that  many  varieties 
possess  a  delightful  fragrance,  and  the  popularity 
of  this  family  is  not  difficult  to  understand. 
When  a  mass  of  flowers  representing  the  best 
varieties  are  seen,  the  effect  produced  is  not  easy 
to  describe.  The  culture  of  the  herbaceous  Pieony 
presents  no  difficulties  which  the  amateur  cannot 
easily  surmount ;  indeed, 
it  is  one  of  the  most 
accommodating  of  hardy 
plants.  They  will  thrive 
in  shady  spots  where  it  is 
difficult  to  establish  many 
other  plants.  They  are 
not  fastidious  as  to  soil, 
but  well  repay  for  deep 
trenching  of  the  land  and 
the  application  of  plenty 
of  half  -  rotten  manure. 
Planting  may  be  carried 
out  from  October  to  March 
during  suitable  weather, 
the  earlier  the  better, 
as  the  plants  commence 
making  new  roots  before 
the  severe  weather  of 
winter  sets  in. 

Pajonies  are  excellent 
for  planting  in  the  front 
of  shrubberies,  by  the  side 
of  carriage-drives,  and  are 
also  most  imposing  in 
large  beds.  Owing  to  the 
size  and  brilliance  of  their 
flowers  they  are  visible  at 
a  greater  distance  than 
many  other  subjects.  The 
flowers  aie  very  suitable 
for  cutting  and  last  a  long 
lime  in  water.  The  Rose- 
scented  varieties  are  much 
appreciated  when  used  for 
indoor  decorations.  Bulbs 
may  be  planted  among 
them  for  giving  an  early 
spring  display  and  Gladioli 
for  flowering  in  the  late 
summer  months.  Single 
plants,  in  small  circular 
beds  on  the  margin  of  a 
lawn  bounded  with  shrubs 
(chiefly  evergreen),  give 
an  excellent  effect.  Plant 
in  good  soil  and  allow 
them  to  remain  undis- 
turbed for  a  number  of 
years. 

A  mulching  of  rotten 
manure  during  the  grow- 
ing season  will  prove 
beneficial,  resulting  in 
larger  and  much  finer 
flowers.  Failing  a  mulch, 
manure-water  should  be 
applied  occasionally, 
preferably  during  showery 
weather.  In  the  absence 
of  rain  give  a  good 
soaking    of     clear    water 

before  applying  the  manure-water.  Hybridists 
have  paid  great  attention  to  Pseonies  for  a 
number  of  years,  with  the  result  that  many 
varieties  furnish  very  striking  colours,  and 
the  intending  planter  should  certainly  include 
some  of  the  newer  sorts  in  his  collection.  Single 
Pieonies  are  considered  by  some  more  showy 
than  the  double  sorts.  They  are  certainly  very 
brilliant,  their  large  Poppy- like  flowers  being 
among  the  most  conspicuous  in  the  flower  garden. 
There  are  varieties  of  many  colours,  the  flowers 
last  well,  and  the  majority  of  them  are  very 
free-flowering.  C.  RcsE. 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN 


ROSE  JULIET. 
HIS  really  remarkable  novelty,  which 
was  exhibited  by  Messrs.  William 
Paul  and  Son  of  Waltham  Cross  at  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meeting 
on  the  20th  ult.,  is  another  example 
of  what  we  owe  to  the  science  of 
cross-fertilisation.  Here  we  have  a  Rose  whose 
seed   parent  was  Captain   Hayward  portraying 


T 


paternal  side  when  the  Rose  is  seen  growing. 
Yearling  plants  produce  thick,  reddish-coloured 
wood  that  will  run  up  to  a  height  of  6  feet  to 
8  feet,  and  the  grass  green  foliage  and  its 
peculiar  fruity  fragrance  are  other  indications 
that  it  owes  its  origin  to  Soleil  d'Or. 

Juliet  will  be  a  real  gain  to  our  gardens  grown 
probably  more  as  a  pillar  or  isolated  shrub  than  as 
a  bush.  As  a  pot  plant  I  believe  it  will  be  in  great 
demand,  its  novel  colouring  being  much  enhanced 
by  this  mode  of  culture,  and  although  such  a 
vigorous  Rose,  every  shoot  will  produce  bloom. 
We  have  to  prove  next 
season  three  other  novel- 
ties emanating  from  Soleil 
d'Or  as  their  pollen  parent, 
two  of  them  having  Caro- 
line Testout  as  their  seed 
parent,  which  should  be 
really  a  more  desirable 
cross  than  where  a  Hybrid 
Perpetual  has  been  used. 
One  of  them  named 
Entente  Cordiale  comes 
from  M.  Guillot,  to  whom 
we  are  indebted  for  many 
charming  Roses  ;  the 
second  variety  was,  I  be- 
lieve, raised  by  Baron  Von 
Pallandt.  ItisnamedVelu- 
wezoom,  and  is  described 
as  brilliant  dark  rosy 
carmine,  with  a  yellow 
reflex.  It  has  been 
awarded  a  gold  medal  at 
Haarlem.  The  third 
variety  is  named  after 
your  valued  correspondent 
Arthur  R.  Goodwin,  whose 
able  pen  has  been  rather 
quiet  lately.  The  colour 
is  coppery  orange  red, 
passing  to  salmon  pink.  I 
hear  excellent  reports  of 
this  Rose.  It  will  thus  be 
seen  that  hybridisers  are 
fully  alive  to  the  possi- 
bilities accruing  from  using 
Soleil  d'Or  and  its  descen- 
dants in  their  experiments, 
and  I  fully  believe  we  shall 
before  long  have  a  very 
beautiful  collection  of 
these  Roses,  which  group 
M.  Pernet  -  Ducher  has 
happily  named  R.  per- 
nettiana.  This  group,  of 
course,  embraces  that 
really  magnificent  novelty 
the  Lyon  Rose,  certainly 
the  beat  of  its  year.      P. 


THE  >EW  ROSE  JDLIBT.    (Natural  size.) 

in  a  marvellous  manner  in  foliage,  growth 
and  bloom  the  distinct  characteristics  of  its 
pollen  parent  Soleil  d'Or.  The  fusion  of 
scarlet  crimson  and  orange  gold  of  the  two 
parents  has  produced  an  offspring  whose  petals 
on  the  inner  side  are  a  sort  of  old  gold  colour 
and  the  backs  of  the  petals  a  beautiful  carmine 
crimson.  The  blooms  are  large,  of  somewhat 
irregular  form,  but  exceedingly  attractive  in  the 
opening  stages  ;  unfortunately,  the  novelty  of 
colouring  wanes  in  the  expanded  flower.  In 
vigour  it  is  almost  comparable  to  a  Hybrid  Sweet 
Briar,  but  no  one  can  mistake  its  origin  on  the 


ROSE  KRONPRIN- 
ZESSIN  CECILIE. 

Wb  have  in  this  beautiful 
novelty    a    decorative 
Hybrid  Tea  Rose  of  much 
value.      Indeed,   it  is  not 
only  useful  for  the  garden, 
but   even    exhibitors   will 
find  it  a  useful  addition  to 
tlie  show  blooms.  There  is  a 
delightful  freshness  about 
its  pale  silvery  pink  blooms  that  appeals  to  the 
eye   immediately.       The   buds    are    long,    hand- 
some, and   develop  into  large   and    well-shaped 
flowers.     It  is  a  free  and  continuous  bloomer,  and 
is  one  of  those  aecorative   Roses  that  produce  a 
fine,  large,  spreading  cluster  on  erect  stems.     P. 


ROSA    LUCIDA    ALBA. 

This  interesting  white  variety  of  the  well-known 
R.  lucida  originated,  I  believe,  in  America,  and 
was  first  exhibited  at  Vincent  Squaie  by  Mr. 
Priehard   of  Christohurch.       Its  foliage   is   pale 


August  7,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


887 


green,  the  blooms  pure  white,  quite  single  and 
produced  in  clusters  of  two  to  five.  It  is  at  home 
at  the  foot  of  a  rockery  or,  indeed,  in  any  posi- 
tion where  a  Rose  species  would  look  suitable. 
We  do  not  make  enough  of  these  pretty  species  ; 
they  are  often  crowded  into  some  oiit-of ■  the- way 
corner  where  their  beauty  in  .June  is  lost. 

A  BEAUTIFUL  BOURSAULT  ROSE. 
A  VERY  charming  climbing  Rose,  which  is  one  of 
the  first  to  bloom  in  June,  is  found  in  the  old 
variety  Morletti.  Its  flowers  are  large,  semi- 
double,  rather  flat,  and  of  a  light  rose  pink 
colour.  This  is  one  of  the  old  Roses  resuscitated, 
as  it  were,  from  those  that  have  been  crowded 
out  of  cultivation  owing  to  the  introduction  of 
numerous  novelties  not  half  so  good  as  many  of 
these  old  sorts.  It  makes  a  delightful  pillar  and 
is  equally  beautiful  upon  an  arch,  and  if  grown 
on  a  tall  stem  the  growths  make  a  fine  spreading 
head  which  exhibits  the  blooms  beautifully. 
This  variety  is  often  catalogued  as  Inermis 
Morletti,  arising,  no  doubt,  from  its  thornless 
wood.  Its  correct  name  is  Mme.  Sancy  de 
Parabere,  and  it  was  introduced  by  M.  Bonnet 
under  that  name  in  1875.  It  is  known  on  the 
Continent  to-day  by  this  name.  The  Bouraault 
Roses  were  at  one  time  in  much  request,  but  no 
one  asks  now  for  them.  With  the  exception  of 
the  above,  they  have  no  special  merit  except 
that  they  are  very  hardy.  Some  are  very 
beautiful  in  the  bud,  notably  the  old  blush 
Boursault.  Auxadis  is  a  very  poor  thing  in 
colour.  Gracilis  has  bright  rosy  red  flowers.  R. 
alpina,  to  which  this  group  belongs  botanically, 
is  a  very  early  flowering  species  with  reddish 
wood  and  foliage.  The  variety  pendulina  has 
single  purplish  flowers  and  very  pretty  foliage. 
The  heps  are  very  beautiful,  of  an  orange  red 
colour,  long  and  pendulous.  R.  alpina  flore- 
plena  is  a  very  free-flowering  sort,  with  small, 
deep  rose-coloured  flowers  and  fine  reddish 
foliage. 


P. 


ROSE  WILLIAM  ALLEN  RICHARDSON 

IN  A  NORTH  DEVON  GARDEN. 
The  accompanying  illustration  of  this  charming 
Noisette  Rose  is  from  a  photograph  kindly  sent 
to  us  by  Mr.  A.  H.  Pitcairn,  Northam  Lodge, 
Northam,  North  Devon,  who  writes  :  "I  enclose 
a  photograph  of  Rose  William  Allen  Richardson, 
which  may  be  of  Interest  to  you.  This  Rose  does 
very  well  with  me,  and  though  facing  due  south 
keeps  its  colour  well  and  is  a  sight  during  the 
month  of  June.  Unfortunately,  the  photo- 
graph cannot  show  the  mass  of  bloom  under  the 
glass  of  the  verandah,  where  it  is  trained  on 
wires  to  the  house,  and  where  we  have  a  fair 
amount  of  Roses  up  to  Christmas." 

ROSE  CLIMBING  CAPTAIN  CHRISTY 

AS  A  STANDARD. 
What  a  delightful  Rose  this  is  at  all  times, 
whether  clambering  over  a  porch  or  trellis, 
entrance  to  a  pergola,  or  growing  as  a  free- 
headed  standard,  a  form  in  which  its  beautiful 
flowers  are  seen  to  great  advantage.  This  is 
one  of  the  few  Roses  that  seem  to  change  their 
flowers  in  the  climbing  form.  Most  of  them 
have  similar  flowers  to  the  dwarf  type  from 
which  they  have  sprung  ;  but  here  we  have  not 
only  a  smaller  flower,  but  produced  in  clusters 
more  like  a  Tea  Rose.  Unfortunately,  there  is 
no  fragrance,  and  here  it  resembles  the  original. 
A  variety  sent  out  a  year  or  two  ago,  named 
Mme.  Edm6e  Cooteau,  appears  to  be  identical 
with  Climbing  Captain  Christy,  or,  if  not,  is  too 
much  like  it  to  be  wanted.  Of  course,  in  growing 
this  Rose  as  a  standard  one  must  give  it  ample 
space  to  exhibit  its  beauty.  I  have  seen  these 
climbing  sorts  with  fine  heads  planted  with 
Hybrid  Perpetual  and  other  Roses,  no  difference 
being  made  for  the  large,  spreading  head  it  will 
ultimately  make.  Such  Roses  deserve  special 
isolated  positions,  and  if  with  a  mass  of  Pansics 


beneath  of  a  good  contrasting  colour,  the  efieet 
would  be  fine.  Two  effective  Roses  on  standards 
are  Lina  Schmidt  Michel  and  Lady  Waterlow. 
The  first  named  is  almost  a  single  Rose,  with 
the  colouring  of  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  from 
which  it  is  a  seedling,  and  Lady  Waterlow  is  a 
salmon  rose  shade,  with  lovely  buttercup  yellow 
to  the  base  of  petals.  On  standards  both  are 
very  free-flowering,  and  the  three  mentioned 
would  afford  a  most  interesting  variation  in  pink 
shades.  P. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

PLANTING  STRAWBERRIES.— This 
is  one  of  the  most  important  of  all 
summer  operations  in  the  garden,  and 
it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the 
grower  shall  devote  his  best  energies 
to  it,  so  as  to  ensure  that  the  plants 
will  yield  heavily  in  the  three  years  that  they 
are  growing.  Ruimers  which  were  put  down  as 
early  as  possible  will  now  be  forming  roots 
rapidly,  and  the  sooner  they  can  be  transferred 


The  life-history  of  the  plants  in  our  gardens  is 
limited  to  three  years,  and  it  is  necessary  that 
we  shall  get  all  we  can  out  of  them  in  that  brief 
period.  To  this  end  the  best  rotted  stable 
or  farmyard  manure  must  be  incorporated  with 
the  second  spit  in  goodly  quantities,  so  that 
when  the  plants  call  for  abundant  supplies  of 
food  in  the  spring  it  will  be  there  waiting  for 
them.  After  deep  loosening  the  ground  will 
require  a  little  time  to  settle  down  again  to  its 
normal  level,  and,  apart  from  that,  it  is  most 
unwise  to  plant  in  loose  soil ;  therefore,  if  time 
cannot  be  spared  to  wait,  treading  should  be 
judiciously  done  before  the  plants  are  put  into 
position.  For  the  majority  of  present-day 
varieties  a  distance  of  2J  feet  should  be  allowed 
between  the  rows,  with  15  inches  from  plant  to 
plant  in  the  rows.  At  these  distances  the  plants 
will  crop  quite  satisfactorily  for  one  season,  but 
immediately  the  first  harvest  is  secured  every 
other  plant  in  the  lines  should  be  cut  out,  so  as  to 
leave  them  at  a  distance  of  24  feet  in  all  directions 
for  the  other  two  years.  In  the  very  possible  event 
of  the  soil  being  dry  when  the  work  has  to  be  put 
in  hand,  it  is  necessary  to  thoroughly  soak  it 
with  clear  water  and  to  give  water  afterwards 
as  may  be  required  to  ensure  constant  advance.  ■ 


ROSE   WILLIAM   ALLEN  BICHARDSON    IN   A  NORTH   DEVON   GARDEN. 


to  their  permanent  positions  the  better,  since 
they  will  then  have  a  longer  time  to  become  well 
established  before  progress  ceases  for  the  year, 
which,  with  this  crop,  may  be  said  to  be  about 
the  end  of  September.  The  dibber  is  still 
occasionally  utilised  in  Strawberry  planting,  but 
never  by  sound  cultivators,  for  the  simple  reason 
that  trowel  or  handfork  planting  can  be  done 
nearly  as  quickly  and  the  results  which  accrue 
are  so  much  more  satisfactory.  The  vast 
majority  of  plants  put  in  with  a  dibber  are 
hung  up  in  a  hard-walled  hole,  and  it  is  obviously 
impossible  for  them  to  grow  as  well  as  they 
would  do  with  their  roots  spread  out  in  a  station 
such  as  will  be  formed  when  the  trowel  or  hand- 
fork  is  used.  The  amateur  may  rest  perfectly 
assured  that  time  spent  in  planting  properly  will 
be  most  generously  repaid  in  the  heavier  crops  of 
superior-flavoured  fruits  which  will  follow. 

Preparing  the  Ground. — As  quarters  fall 
vacant  through  the  passing  over  of  vegetables, 
the  soil  ought  to  be  immediately  worked  for  the 
reception  of  the  Strawberries.  Nothing  short 
of  bastard  trenching  should  be  considered,  and 
the  deeper  the  loosening  can  be  carried  the  better 
for  the  plants,  as  the  root-run  is  cooler  and  pro- 
gress will  be  unchecked  even  in  dry  weather. 


Wall  Trees. — These  will,  in  many  instances, 
be  carrying  heavy  crops  of  fruit  at  the  present 
time,  and  it  is  most  important  that  they  shall 
have  regular  attention.  Not  only  must  there  be 
nets  always  in  position  to  keep  away  the  birds, 
but  the  grower  should  go  carefully  over  every 
tree  each  morning  with  a  view  to  gathering  all 
fruits  that  are  ripe  or  sufficiently  so  to  be 
removed  from  the  stems.  Naturally  enough, 
when  trees  are  bearing  heavy  burdens  they 
demand  plenty  of  support,  and  watering  becomes 
imperative.  Brick  walls  are  excellent  for  the 
culture  of  fruit,  but  it  must  ever  be  borne  in 
mind  that  the  bricks  suck  comparatively  im- 
mense quantities  of  moisture  out  of  the  soil,  and 
it  must  not,  therefore,  be  thought  that  because 
the  open  quarters  of  the  garden  do  not  want 
artificial  watering  the  borders  are  in  the  same 
happy  state.  Par  from  it.  Heavy  applications 
alone  will  ensure  the  fruits  swelling  and  finish- 
ing as  they  should  do,  and  in  many  oases  it  will 
be  the  very  best  of  practice  to  supplement 
the  clear  water  with  weak  liquid  manure 
now  and  again ;  but  this  is,  of  course,  a 
point  that  each  cultivator  must  settle  for 
himself  according  to  the  condition  of  the  soil  and 
the  trees.  FRUiT-GBOWaR. 


388 


THE     GARDEN 


[August  7,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

THE  FLOWER  GARDEN.— There  is 
no  part  of  the  flower  garden  that 
gets  untidy  in  a  short  time  more  than 
the  fernery.  The  plants  themselves 
do  not  look  bad  as  a  rule,  but  they 
collect  all  other  kinds  of  leaves, 
straw,  dried  grass,  paper,  shavings  and  similar 
material,  and  on  this  account  more  work  is 
involved  in  the  cleaning  of  the  fernery.  Where 
ferneries  are,  however,  kept  quite  free  from 
foreign  matter  and  from  weeds,  which  grow 
rapidly  there  on  account  of  the  friendly  shade 
cast  by  the  spreading  fronds  of  the  plants,  few 
features  in  the  garden  are  more  attractive  or 
give  more  satisfaction.  At  this  season  the  young 
earwigs  begin  to  attack  the  Chrysanthemums  and 
Dahlias,  and  every  effort  must  be  made  to 
preserve  the  buds  from  being  damaged  by  them. 
The  pests  lodge  in  fading  leaves,  also  in  those 
that  are  curled  and  in  dry  places.  A  small 
quantity  of  Apterite  scattered  in  a  circle  1  foot 
from  the  stems  of  the  plants  will  have  a  good 
effect  in  preventing  the  earwigs  reaching  the 
plants.  Stronger  doses  of  the  powder  must  also 
be  scattered  near  wooden  fences  and  similar  places 
where  there  are  no  plants  growing.  A  tuft 
of  moss  placed  in  a  small  pot  and  lodged  in  the 
branches  of  the  plants  will  serve  as  a  trap,  so 
will  1  foot  lengths  of  Bean-stalks.  Furthermore, 
every  evening  about  nine  o'clock  it  is  advisable 
to  examine  the  plants  and  kill  all  the  earwigs 
found  on  them. 

The  Vegetable  Garden. — Seeds  of  Cabbages 
must  now  be  sown  in  the  more  northern  counties, 
so  that  the  resultant  plants  will  be  strong  and 
come  in  useful  in  the  spring.  South  of  the 
Midlands  it  will  be  quite  early  enough  if  the 
seeds  are  sown  a  week  hence.  Now  it  is  a  fact 
that  many  inexperienced  culitivators  sow  the 
seeds  in  soil  which  is  too  loose  and  also  too  rich. 
Moreover,  the  seeds  are  sown  too  thickly. 
Select  a  nice  open  border  in  the  garden,  preferably 
one  in  which  Potatoes  have  been  grown.  Do  not 
add  any  manure,  but  tread  down  the  soil  while 
it  is  fairly  dry,  draw  out  drills  or  remove  some 
of  the  surface  soil,  give  water,  sow  the  seeds  very 
thinly,  and  then  cover  them  with  the  dry  soil 
which  was  taken  off.  Do  not  water  the  covering 
soil.  In  a  very  short  time  the  seeds  will 
germinate.  Lift  all  Potatoes  as  the  crops  ripen. 
AH  haulm  showing  signs  of  disease  must  be 
burned  at  once.  Sound  haulm  should  be  taken 
away  from  the  garden,  spread  out  in  the  rubbish 
yard  to  dry,  and  then  be  burned.  The  tubers, 
as  lifted,  must  be  dealt  with  in  a  systematic 
manner.  Those  intended  for  storing  must  be 
allowed  to  get  thoroughly  dry ;  one  hour's 
exposure  will  be  sufficient  to  "  set"  the  skin  on 
them  ;  but  the  others,  intended  for  seed  purposes, 
may  with  advantage  be  left  fully  exposed  to 
the  sun  and  light  until  they  are  almost  green. 
It  is  not  wise,  however,  to  leave  them  on  the 
ground  to  get  wet.  Remove  them  to  an  open 
shed  or  place  them  on  mats  under  tilted  glass 
lights.  Cut  off  all  flower-stems  from  Rhubarb 
and  Seakale  plants,  prepare  ground  for  the 
sowing  of  seeds  of  autumn  Onions,  and  lift,  dry 
and  store  Shallots. 

Fruit  Oarden. — Many  growers  of  Grapes  will 
now  have  a  very  anxious  time,  on  account  of  the 
scalding  of  the  berries.  Just  prior  to  the  com- 
mencing of  the  colouring  stage  the  berries  are 
most  liable  to  scald — that  is,  the  berries  on  the 
sunny  side  of  the  bunch  and  near  the  top,  those 
most  exposed,  are  really  scalded,  and  then  they 
shrivel.  The  scalding  is  worse  immediately  after 
a   spell   of   dull  weather,  and  so  it  is  advisable 


to  put  on  a  light  shading  only  while  the 
sunshine  is  strong.  Furthermore,  the  top  venti- 
lators should  be  left  open  a  little  all  night  and 
opened  wider  again  very  early  in  the  morning. 
If  the  pipes  are  kept  warm  throughout  the 
night  a  more  buoyant  atmosphere  results.  Fig 
trees  bearing  fruit  must  be  well  watered  with 
liquid  manure.  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees,  both 
on  walls  and  under  glass,  must  be  stimulated 
with  frequent  applications  of  manure-water  also. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Freesias  should  now 
be  potted  without  delay.  A  good  compost 
is  made  up  as  follows  :  Fibrous  loam,  passed 
through  a  1-inch-mesh  sieve,  two  parts  ;  leaf -soil, 
one  part  ;  and  sand  and  road-grit,  one  part. 
Very  small  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  pans,  but 
the  largest  must  be  placed  in  5-inch  and  6-inch 


I. — A  PORTION  OF  GROWTH  AS  SEVERED  FROM 
AN  OLD  PLANT  OF  EVERGREEN  CANDY- 
TUFT, AND  SHOWING  OLD  FLOWER-STEMS 
AND  TWO  YOUNG   SHOOTS. 

pots ;  cover  the  bulbs  1  inch  deep  with  soil. 
Ventilate  frames  freely  and  remove  all  seared 
leaves  from  Cucumber  plants.  B. 

PROPAGATING  THE  EVERGREEN 

CANDYTUFT  BY  CUTTINGS. 
Anv  flowering  subject  of  a  perennial  character 
that  makes  a  beautiful  display  in  late  spring  has 
an  especial  value  in  this  climate  of  ours,  and  if 
the  plant  be  of  a  hardy  nature,  this  assuredly 
adds  very  materially  to  its  value.  In  the  subject 
under  notice  we  are  dealing  with  the  common 
rock  or  perennial  Candytuft,  which  is  known  to 
the  botanist  by  the  name  of  Iberia  sempervirens. 
It  is  a  hardy  perennial,  with  dark  evergreen 
leaves,  and  may  be  described  as  a  half-shrubby, 
dwarf,  spreading  plant.  The  plant  is  exception- 
ally hardv  and  appears  to  thrive  almost  any- 
where. When  planted  in  ground  that  has  been 
well  tilled,  it  is  astonishing  what  beautiful 
results  are  obtained.  This  plant,  like  many  of 
the  other  perennial  Candytufts,  is  eminently 
well   adapted   for   sunny   positions  in   the   rook 


garden,  and  as  a  plant  for  the  margins  of  large 
borders  it  has  few  equals.  Besides  I.  semper- 
virens, which  is  a  native  plant  of  Southern  Europe, 
there  are  other  beautiful  kinds,  among  the  best 
of  which  are  the  following :  I.  correaefolia, 
white,  1  foot  ;  I.  gibraltarica,  white,  tinted  lilac, 
with  low,  close  heads,  a  native  of  Gibraltar,  as 
its  name  implies ;  I.  semperflorens,  a  native  of 
Italy  and  a  plant  that  has  dense  corymbs  of 
white  flowers,  but  hardly  suited  for  border 
culture.  I.  gibraltarica  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of 
the  perennial  Candytufts,  but  is  somewhat 
delicate,  in  consequence  of  which  the  plant 
should  be  wintered  in  a  cold  frame. 

These  evergreen  species  may  be  increased  by 
seed  sown  in  April,  by  layering  the  shoots  during 
the  summer  and  by  cuttings,  the  latter  usually 
proving  the  most  satisfactory.  In  Fig.  1  a 
portion  of  growth  as  severed  from  the  old  plant, 
after  the  flowering  period  has  come  to  an  end,  is 
shown.  Numerous  growths  of  similar  character 
will  be  found  on  every  old  tuft,  so  there  should 
be  no  shortage  of  cuttings.  A  careful  observa- 
tion of  this  severed  growth  will  reveal  several 
spent  flower-stems  and  two  shoots  that  have 
developed  quite  recently.  It  is  to  these  latter 
that  we  have  to  look  for  our  supply  of  cuttings. 
To  further  illustrate  the  work,  on  the  left  of 
Fig.  2  is  shown  an  example  of  a  young  shoot  as 
broken  out  or  severed  from  the  old  plant  ;  note 
its  sturdy,  promising  character.  The  next  process 
is  simple  enough.  The  lower  leaves  should  be 
removed  from  the  cutting,  as  represented  on  the 
right  of  Fig.  2,  and  the  stem  of  the  growth  cut 
straight  through  immediately  below  a  joint. 
The  cuttings  when  prepared  and  ready  for  inser- 
tion should  be  2  inches  or  rather  more  in  length. 

The  final  operation  is  the  insertion  of  the 
cuttings  in  suitable  receptacles.  Cuttings  may 
be  rooted  in  deep  seedling-pans,  in  boxes  2  inches 
to  3  inches  deep,  and  in  pots  of  a  size  to  suit  the 
requirements  of  each  individual  grower.  For 
most  small  growers  pots  will  be  found  more 
suitable,  and  for  this  reason  a  pot  5  inches  in 
diameter  filled  with  cuttings  of  the  evergreen 
Candytuft  is  shown  in  Fig.  3.  Loam,  leaf-mould 
and  sand  in  equal  proportions  will  make  an 
excellent  compost  for  the  cuttings,  and  if  the 
surface  soil  be  covered  with  coarse  silver  sand 
before  the  cuttings  are  dibbled  in,  the  propagator 
will,  when  making  each  hole,  carry  a  small 
quantity  of  sand  to  the  bottom,  and  on  this  the 
cutting  must  rest.  Dibble  in  the  cuttings  about 
1|  inches  apart,  and  be  particularly  careful  to 
press  the  soil  to  the  base  of  each  one ;  this  is  a 
most  important  factor  in  the  successful  propaga- 
tion by  cuttings. 

Those  who  have  cold  frame  accommodation 
and  desire  to  raise  a  large  quantity  of  plants 
will  find  this  method  by  far  the  most  simple  of 
the  whole  series.  Make  up  a  bed  of  well-drained 
sandy  soil,  which  must  be  levelled  and  made 
fairly  firm.  Sprinkle  the  surface  soil  with  sand 
and  proceed  to  insert  the  cuttings  in  rows  rather 
more  than  2  inches  asunder  and  rather  less  than 
2  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  Water  in  with  a 
fine-rosed  can,  cover  with  a  frame-light  and  shade 
for  a  time  when  the  weather  is  bright  and  sunny. 
After  a  time  admit  air,  gradually  at  first, 
increasing  this  as  the  cuttings  become  well 
rooted  and  as  the  weather  will  allow.  The 
5-inch  pots  before  alluded  to  should  be  placed  in 
the  cold  frame  during  the  rooting  process  and 
the  soil  maintained  in  a  condition  that  may  be 
described  as  just  moist. 

Readers  who  have  a  hand-light  or  a  bell-glass 
may  utilise  either  of  these  adjuncts  of  the  garden 
for  raising  the  evergreen  Candytuft.  They  are 
so  easily  controlled  and  serve  the  purpose  so 
well    that    I    regard    them    as    invaluable    fur 


August  7,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


389 


2. ON    THE    LEFT    IS    SHOWN   A  YOUNG    SHOOT 

AS  SEVERED  FROM  THE  PLANT,  AND  ON 
THE  BIOHT  THE  SAME  PREPARED  READY 
TOR  PLANTING. 

raising  stocks  of  most  plants.  The  shrubby 
Candytufts  may  be  increased  by  division  of  the 
roots  in  either  October  or  March,  and  this 
system  may  appeal  to  those  who  have  just  one 
or  two  plants  and  wish  to  increase  them  in  a 
limited  degree.  D.  B.  C. 

PLANTING  ALPINE  FLOWERS. 
To  the  practised  a  few  notes  on  the  planting  of 
alpinea  in  the  open  may  appear  superfluous,  but 
long  experience  shows  one  that  the  beginner  is 
biit  seldom  catered  for  in  such  points  as  this, 
one  of  the  most  important  for  those  who  are 
about  to  plant  out  alpines,  either  those  which 
have  been  procured  in  pots  or  those  which  are 
piirohased  with  the  soil  shaken  from  their  roots, 
although  we  do  not  generally  find  the  choicer 
things  sent  out  in  this  way  from  a  nursery  of 
standing  dealing  in  the  smaller  alpinea. 

The  first  preliminary  is  that  the  position 
should  be  well  chosen.  A  sun-loving  plant 
should  not  be  planted  in  the  shade,  and, 
similarly,  a  shade-lover  must  not  go  into  a  sunny 
spot.  Then  the  crevice,  pocket  or  ledge  where 
the  plant  is  to  go  ought  to  be  so  planned  that  the 
rain-water  runs  into,  instead  of  away  from,  the 
plant.  There  ought,  however,  to  be  ample 
drainage  for  the  plant,  so  that  its  roots  will 
not  be  in  soil  which  becomes  soured  by  the  water 
being  unable  to  pass  away  from  it.  The  soil 
should  be  free  and  mainly  composed  of  loam, 
peat  or  leaf-soil  and  sand  and  grit.  It  must  be 
so  firm  that  the  roots  can  take  hold  of  it,  yet  not 
so  hard  that  they  cannot  penetrate  it. 

When  it  comes  to  placing  the  plant  in  position, 
a  few  details  should  be  seen  to.  If  the  plant  is 
in  a  pot  or  comes  with  the  ball  of  soil  attached, 
the  ball  ought  to  be  slightly  broken  or  opened  at 
the  sides  if  filled  with  the  roots.  It  should  then 
be  placed  in  the  hole  in  the  rockery  chosen  for 
the  purpose,  and  the  soil  well  worked  about  it 
and  made  firm.  Some  pieces  of  stone  are  then 
put  about  the  neok  of  the  plant  and  put  in 
firm  enough  so  as  not  merely  to  lie  on  the 
surface  and  harbour  the  slugs.  In  the  case  of 
planting  flowers  without  earth  about  their  roots, 
the  latter  should  be  spread  out  in  the  hole  and 
the  soil  filled  in  gradually,  firming  the  earth 
about  the  plant  as  the  filling  goes  on.  If  it  is 
not  firm,  settling  will  take  place,  and  I  know 
cases  of  plants  which  have  been  quite  firm  at  the 
necks,  but  which  had  their  roots  imperfectly 
supported  by  the  soil  beneath. 

Should  these  alpines  have  to  be  planted  during 
dry  weather,  watering  is  necessary  at  first,  and 
the  flowers  should  then  be  shaded  for  a  time 
from  strong  sunshine.  A  flower-pot  over  them 
and  tilted  at  the  side  to  allow  of  the  admission 


of  sufficient  air  makes  a  good  shade  for  the  few 
days  it  will  be  necessary.  Firm  planting,  suit- 
able soil,  good  exposure,  plenty  of  stones  well 
pressed  in  about  the  plants  and  free  drainage  are 
all  prime  factors  in  the  cultivation  of  alpines, 
and  all  of  these  should  be  provided  for  when  the 
plants  are  secured.  A  good  start  is  half  the 
battle  with  alpines  as  well  as  with  other  flowers, 
and  a  little  care  at  first  will  afterwards  be 
rewarded  by  the  possession  of  healthy,  free- 
flowering  plants  and  a  general  air  of  prosperity 
about  the  rock  garden  or  little  rockery  where 
the  charming  flowers  of  the  mountains  have 
found  a  congenial  home. 

THE    ARMENIAN    SNAKE'S-HEAD    LILY. 

(Fritillaeia  armbna.  ) 
One  of  the  prettiest  of  the  early  Snake's-head 
Lilies,  or  Fritillaries,  is  Fritillaria  armena,  an 
Armenian  species  and  one  which  deserves  the 
special  appreciation  of  the  cultivator  of  alpine 
flowers,  seeing  that  it  forms  an  excellent  com- 
panion for  the  alpines  of  non-bulbous  habit, 
while  its  stature  is  also  in  keeping  with  them. 

Although  it  has  been  in  cultivation  for  a  con- 
siderable time,  the  Armenian  Snake's-head  Lily 
has  never  acquired  a  hold  in  gardens  as  a  whole, 
probably  both  because  such  flowers  are  not  highly 
popular  and  also  because  this  little  Fritillaria  is 
not  much  exhibited.  A  single  plant  will  give 
comparatively  little  pleasure  to  the  many.  The 
enthusiast  will  not  hesitate  to  express  his  liking 
for  it  after  he  has  examined  its  prettily  shaped 
bell-like  flowers,  which  droop  so  pleasingly  from 
the  6-inch  stem. 

This  Fritillaria  is  emphatically  a  bulb  for  the 
rook  garden,  not  only  because  it  is  of  suitable 
size,  but  also  on  account  of  its  preference  for  the 
slopes  and  valleys  of  the  rookery.  In  addition, 
it  likes  the  cooler  positions  and  is  thus  excellent 
for  brightening  up  some  of  the  duller  spots, 
especially  where  these  are  carpeted  by  some  low- 
growing  alpine.  S.  Arnott. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

Bulbs  in  Pots. — Last  week  I  urged  town  gar- 
deners to  duly  repot  and  prepare  Zonal  Pelar- 
goniums for  winter  flowering,  and  now  I  advise 
them  to  make  preparations  for  having  a  fine  show 
of  flowers  from  bulbs  as  early  as  possible.  The 
bulbs  must  be  grown  in  pots,  of  course,  and 
even  a  few  will  give  the  owner  a  great  deal  of 
pleasure.  As  far  as  I  am  concerned,  my  enjoy- 
ment of  various  kinds  of  plants,  fruits,  &c. ,  does 
not  commence  only  when  the  flowering  or  ripening 
stages  respectively  draw  near,  but  it  begins  with 
the  potting  or  planting  and  goes  on  right  through 
the  season  to  the  final  stage.  I  am  quite  sure 
that  thousands  of  town  gar- 
deners reap  pleasure  in  the  same 
way.  Those  who  do  not,  miss 
a  vast  amount  of  enjoyment. 
Few  bulbs  are  more  easily  grown 
than  Tulips,  and  the  variety  and 
brilliance  of  their  colours  make 
it  an  easy  matter  for  the  culti- 
vator to  create  very  beautiful 
displays  at  a  small  cost.  The 
Due  Van  Thol  groups  of  Tulips 
are  very  dwarf  in  habit,  very 
early  and  the  blooms  are  sweetly 
scented.  Bulbs  of  these  will 
not  be  ready  for  planting  for 
several  weeks,  but  the  compost 
must  be  prepared  and  orders 
given  well  beforehand.  To 
assist  the  inexperienced  in 
selecting  varieties  I  will  name 
some  here :  The  common  red 
is  bordered  with    yellow   and 


a  brilliant  scarlet  in  colour ;  rose  is  a  satiny 
rose  in  colour ;  gold  striped  is  coloured  scarlet 
and  gold,  and  is  a  very  dwarf  variety,  only 
growing  5  inches  or  6  inches  high;  white  is  a 
pure  white,  and  yellow  a  very  clear  yellow, 
both  growing  7  inches  or  8  inches  high.  These 
are  all  Due  Van  Thols. 

White  Roman  Hyacinths  and  Narcissi 
may  be  obtained  and  potted  forthwith.  It  will 
be  unnecessary  to  use  fire-heat  for  these,  as  both 
may  be  flowered  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  conserva- 
tory or  even  in  a  frame ;  furthermore,  these  bulbs 
will  grow  and  blossom  very  freely  in  towns.  The 
best  compost  is  that  made  up  of  equal  quantities 
of  fibrous  loam  and  leaf-soil.  To  one  bushel  of 
the  two  ingredients  a  7-inoh  potful  of  coarse  sand 
must  be  added.  Five-inch  and  6-inoh  pots  are 
the  best  to  use,  except  where  large  masses  of 
Narcissi  are  required  ;  then  use  7-inch  pots.  The 
large-flowered  Paper  White,  the  double  Roman 
and  Poeticus  are  the  best  varieties  to  pot  first. 
In  due  time  I  will  give  some  hints  on  the  potting 
and  management  of  the  bulbs. 

Cuttings  oe  Bedding  Plants. — It  really  only 
seems  to  be  a  very  short  time  since  we  were  in  the 
midst  of  the  work  of  bedding-out  the  summer- 
flowering  subjects,  and  now  we  are  obliged  to  think 
seriously  about  the  preparation  of  the  cuttings. 
Amateurs  would  succeed  better,  especially  with 
Zonal  Pelargoniums,  if  they  made  an  early  start 
with  the  propagation  of  the  cuttings,  gave  them 
cool  treatment  and  a  long  period  to  root  in. 
They  would  succeed  because  the  cuttings  would 
possess  roots  before  the  dull  days  of  winter  came, 
and  such  young  plants  would  be  hardy  and  pass 
through  the  winter  in  frames  and  greenhouses 
splendidly.  If  the  cuttings  are  carefully  selected 
no  gaps  need  be  made  nor  much  time  occupied  in 
the  work.  Use  flower-pots  and  boxes,  the  former 
for  the  variegated  ones  and  the  latter  for  the 
green-leaved.  At  the  present  time  the  compost 
and  the  pots  and  boxes  must  be  got  ready  for  the 
taking  of  the  cuttings.  The  most  suitable  soil  is 
made  up  as  follows :  Old  potting  soil,  if  used 
for  the  first  time  during  the  present  year,  one 
half  ;  leaf-soil,  one  half  ;  with  sufficient  sand  to 
make  all  quite  porous,  as  porosity  of  soil 
during  the  winter  months  is  highly  essential. 
If  the  sand  is  washed  and  then  dried  before 
being  added  to  the  soil  it  will  prove  more 
effective.  Both  pots  and  crocks  must  be  clean, 
inside  especially. 

Strawberries. — In  gardens  in  the  more  open 
parts  of  towns  Strawberry  plants  do  fairly  well. 
We  must  not  expect  them  to  be  as  successful  as 
in  the  country  districts.  Many  owners  of  town 
gardens  like  to  have  a  bed  of  Strawberries,  and 
those  who  contemplate  putting  in  young  plants 
must  deeply  dig  a  border  at  once  and  put  in  some 
rotted  manure.  In  next  week's  issue  I  will  tell 
how  to  do  the  planting.  Avon. 


grows  7  inches  high  ;  maximus 
in  an  improved  variety  on  the 
foregoing;  crimson  is  a  grand 
variety,  very  distinct ;  scarlet  is 


3. — A    5-INCH   POT  filled   with  THE  PREPARED  CUTTINOS. 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[August  7,  1909. 


GARDENING   OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR 


THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

KEEP  all  flower-beds  clean  and  free  from 
weeds,  decayed  leaves  and  flowers, 
and  peg  down  Verbenas,  Petunias  and 
other  plants  which  require  similar 
treatment. 
Hollyhocks,  Palms,  DracEBnas,  Dah- 
lias and  other  tall  subjects  needing  supports 
should  receive  attention  to  prevent  damage  by 
wind  and  rain.  Roses  and  other  plants  trained 
to  trellises  and  walls  must  be  duly  thinned  and 
kept  within  bounds,  but  avoid,  as  far  as  possible, 
any  formality.  Ornamental  trees  and  shrubs 
must  be  attended  to  at  this  season,  and  any  which 
may  be  crowding  and  injuring  their  neighbours 
should  be  thinned  or  out  back  so  that  they  stand 
clear  of  each  other. 

Wallflowers,  Forget-me-nots  and  other  plants 
for  spring  flowering  which  have  been  sown  in 
beds  will  need  room,  and  should  at  once  receive 
attention.  If  planted  in  beds  in  an  open  position 
6  inches  or  8  inches  apart,  they  should  develop 
into  very  useful  plants  by  the  time  they  will  be 
required  to  take  the  places  of  the  summer  flowers. 
If  the  weather  should  prove  dry  and  hot,  not- 
withstanding the  amount  of  rain  experienced, 
large  shrubs  and  ornamental  trees  which  were 
removed  last  winter  or  spring  ought  to  be 
thoroughly  examined,  and  if  the  roots  near  the 
stems  are  requiring  moisture,  as  is  frequently 
the  case,  deluge  them  with  water,  taking  care 
that  it  penetrates  the  soil  to  a  good  depth. 

Habdt  Fruits. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines  are  this  season  very 
abundant  and  should  be  well  thinned,  the  young 
shoots  and  foliage  being  kept  clean  and  free 
from  red  spider  and  other  insects,  which  this 
season  have  been  exceedingly  troublesome,  and, 
coming  so  early  and  the  weather  being  cold,  the 
trees  at  one  time  made  but  little  headway  ;  but 
with  repeated  applications  of  quassia  extract, 
using  this  with  reasonable  force  through  the 
syringe,  our  trees  are  now  fairly  free  and  clean. 
Insecticides  should  not  be  applied  after  the 
fruits  begin  to  change  colour,  and  both  fruit  and 
foliage  should  be  thoroughly  washed  with  clean 
water,  so  that  the  flavour  may  not  be  impaired. 

Raspberries.  ^The  roots  of  these  which  lie  so 
near  to  the  surface,  and  especially  on  light  soils, 
will  require  a  good  heavy  mulching  with 
decayed  manure  and  the  soil  heavily  watered  to 
encourage  the  growth  for  next  year's  fruiting. 
As  the  crops  of  fruit  are  cleared,  no  time  should 
be  lost  in  getting  the  old  canes  removed,  as  they 
are  of  no  further  use.  Continue  the  summer 
pruning  of  all  fruit  trees,  but  do  not  shorten 
this  year's  growth  too  severely,  being  careful 
to  preserve  the  most  suitable  shoots  when 
required  for  filling  up  space,  and  also  for  grafts 
of  any  particular  variety.  Buds  may  now  be 
put  in  if  necessary  (where  grafts  failed)  on  suit- 
able new  growths. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Sow  large  breadths  of  Turnips  and  Spinach, 
and  raise  good  supplies  of  Endive,  Lettuce  and 
other  salads.  More  Cabbages  may  be  sown,  so 
that  ample  plants  to  meet  the  demand  are 
available.  As  fast  as  the  different  crops  are  past, 
clear  the  ground  and  refill  with  such  crops  as 
Savoys  and  Cabbages.  Late  Broccoli  and  many 
other  kinds  of  plants  withstand  severe  weather 
better  if  grown  on  firm  land.  Earth  up  Celery 
as  required,  first  soaking  the  roots  with  water. 
Do  not  draw  the  earth  to  the  plants  till  the 
hearts  are  perfectly  dry,  and  then  not  too  much 
at  one  time.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamtt. 


FOR   THE 


NORTH 


NORTH   AND 
MIDLANDS. 

The    Bulb    Garden. 
Bui.BOtJS     Plants,    such    as    Narcissi, 
Leucojums,  Grape  and  Feather 


Hardy 

Tulips,  Scillas, 

Hyacinths,  as  well  as  many  others  that  increase 
freely,  deteriorate  if  left  too  long  undisturbed. 
Where  lifting  and  replanting  is  decided  upon,  the 
present,  when  root  vitality  is  at  its  lowest,  is  the 
most  suitable  time  to  carry  out  the  work.  Having 
raised  the  clumps  carefully,  the  bulbs  or  roots 
may  be  separated,  retaining  the  largest  for 
planting  again  in  prominent  positions,  while  the 
inferior  may  be  placed  in  nursery  lines  to  gain 
size  and  strength,  or,  if  in  great  abundance,  may 
be  transferred  direct  to  positions  outside  the 
garden,  such  as  the  margins  of  woodland  walks  or 
where  the  vegetation  around  and  above  is  not 
too  dense  through  the  woods  themselves. 

Planting. — The  time  fcr  doing  this  is  unim- 
portant, as  the  bulbs  may  be  kept  in  a  cool  store 
for  several  weeks  without  harm,  but  the  raising 
should  be  done  before  growth  recommences. 
Indoor  Froits. 
Vines. — The  foliage  of  these  should  be  looked 
over  once  a  week,  and  a  shoot  here  and  another 
there  removed  to  prevent  overcrowding  or  burning 
through  contact  with  the  glass. 

Black  Orapes  are  considered  to  colour  best 
under  a  fairly  thick  canopy  of  foliage,  while 
the  white  section,  more  especially  Muscat  of 
Alexandria,  obtain  the  desired  amber  tint  more 
fully  when  slightly  exposed,  through  the  foliage 
being  drawn  aside,  so  that  sunlight  may  play 
around  the  bunches.  Sudden  exposure  in  this 
way  must,  however,  be  guarded  against,  or  the 
end  in  view  will  be  defeated  by  the  berries 
becoming  brown  instead  of  the  amber  shade. 

Figs.  —To  have  these  at  their  best  they  must 
ripen  fully  upon  the  tree ;  at  any  rate,  the  ripening 
process  must  be  well  advanced  before  gathering 
takes  place,  or  loss  of  flavour  and  appearance 
will  be  more  or  less  in  evidence.  On  the  other 
hand,  no  fruit  is  more  apt  to  split  than  the  Fig, 
and  although  by  some  the  fruits  thus  marred  in 
appearance  are  considered  perfection  in  flavour, 
on  the  whole  sound  fruits  are  preferred  to  form 
a  dish.  In  bright,  dry  weather  trouble  of  this 
kind  is  less  experienced,  but  a  change  from  this 
to  dampness  accelerates  the  evil  and  necessitates 
frequent  inspection  of  the  crop. 
Hardy  Fruit. 
Strawberries. — In  recent  years  the  culture  of 
this  highly  esteemed  fruit  in  private  gardens  has 
undergone  a  change,  the  earliest  and  best  fruits 
being  obtained  from  plants  layered  and  planted 
the  season  previous.  Plants  layered  in  small 
pots  or  turves,  as  advised  some  time  ago,  will 
now  be  rooted,  and  if  the  site  for  the  plantation 
is  not  already  prepared  by  manuring  and  digging, 
no  time  should  be  lost  in  doing  this,  so  that  all 
may  be  in  readiness  for  the  planting.  In  the 
open  trenching  two  or  more  spades  deep  may 
be  done  with  advantage,  but  on  fruit  tree 
borders  ordinary  digging  must  suffice,  and  on  this 
account  the  annual  system  of  culture  has  its 
advantages.  In  planting  first  make  the  newly 
dug  ground  firm,  and  mark  it  in  lines  about 
30  inches  apart,  placing  the  plants  12  inches  from 
each  other.  After  planting  attend  carefully  to 
watering,  and  frequently  stir  the  surface  soil  with 
the  hoe,  so  that  the  plant  may  have  the  fullest 
opportunity  to  become  established  before  winter. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
Cabbage  Seed  for  autumn  planting  should  now 
be  sown  thinly  upon  a  well-exposed  situation,  so 
that  the  plants  may  make  sturdy  growth  from 
the  start. 

Broccoli  and  all  kinds  of  winter  and  spring 
forms  of  green  vegetables  should  be  planted  as 
fast  as  ground,  until  now  occupied  with  other 
crops,  becomes  vacant. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  McEaoharn.) 
CfaUoway  Soute,  Oa,rli«M»n,  Wigtownshire. 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Odontoglossum  ardbntissimum  Starlight  (0- 
Pescatorei  x  0.  crispum  Starlight). — A  large- 
flowered  and  handsome  variety,  with  many  of 
the  characteristics  of  0.  crispum  Starlight,  the 
flowers  being  copiously  freckled  with  reddish 
purple  spots.  The  shapely  lip  is  white  and 
crimson  spotted.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Sander  and 
Son,  St.  Albans.     Award  of  merit. 

Spathogloftis  plicala  alba. — A  very  pretty 
variety,  having  an  erect  raceme  of  pure  white 
flowers  tinged  at  the  base  with  yellow.  Shown  by 
Sir  Jeremiah  Colman,  Gatton  Park.  Award  of 
merit. 

Both  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Orchid 
committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  on 
the  20th  ult. ,  when  the  awards  were  made. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAe  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assisiatice,  no  matter  tvhat  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  ami  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  «0,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  bitsiness  should  6e  seiit  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  a7id  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  icsed  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Cutttng:  down  Pampas  Grass  {Con- 
stant Reader).  — If  the  plants  are  cut  low  down 
during  the  autumn  and  the  winter  is  severe,  or 
with  much  snow  and  wet,  it  is  highly  probable 
that  the  spring  will  find  them  quite  dead,  and, 
indeed,  this  mistaken  notion  has  caused  the 
death  of  many  a  fine  specimen.  The  best  way  to 
treat  the  plants  is  to  drive  a  few  stakes  round 
about  them,  gathering  the  plants  into  pyramid 
form,  and  then,  drawing  the  stakes  about  them, 
form  a  thatch  to  throw  off^  snow  and  wet. 
This  and  a  mulch  of  manure  about  the  base  will 
keep  them  safe.  The  Pampas  Grass  is  too 
valuable  a  plant  to  risk,  though  in  the  more 
favoured  parts  of  the  country  it  flourishes  with- 
out the  least  protection  in  winter. 

LiliUtn  diseased  (itVram).— The  central 
core  of  the  bulb  was  quite  rotten,  the  direct 
result  of  a  treatment  to  which  the  bulbs  are  sub- 
jected in  Japan  prior  to  shipment  to  this  country. 
In  preparation  for  the  long  journey  by  sea  the 
bulbs  are  lifted  and  denuded  of  all  their  roots, 
finally  being  moulded  in  tempered  clay  prior  to 
packing  in  close  cases  for  despatch  to  England 
and  other  places.  This  is  done  so  that  the  bulbs 
will  present  a  fresh-looking  appearance  on  arrival ; 
but  by  reason  of  the  confined  moisture,  the  root 
mutilation  and  long  sea  voyage,  a  fungoid  disease 
sets  up  and  destroys  the  bulbs  wholesale.  Un- 
fortunately, this  state  of  things  is  not  fully 
revealed  till  the  bulbs  are  again  in  touch  with 
the  soil,  though  large  numbers  are  a  mass  of  pulp 
on  arrival  here.  When  once  the  bulbs  are  smitten 
no  cultural  treatment  will  avail  anything,  and 
the  root-fibres,  young  and  old,  having  been  cut 
ruthlessly  away  in  .Tapan  and  no  more  appearing, 
the  bulbs  perish  in  their  thousands  as  soon  as 
they  are  placed  in  the  ground. 

Good  lapgre-cupped  Daffodils  (.Plural).— We 
have  consulted  a  good  many  lists,  and  find  there  are  very 
few  liulbs  indeed  at  2s.  or  less  better  than  those  that  you 
have  already.  You  have  an  excellent  little  collection,  and 
without  considerably  enlarging  your  limit  of  price  we  fail 
to  see  how  you  can  do  much  to  improve  it.  However,  we 
suggest  as  a  white  self  Mountain  Maid  at  38. ;  as  bicolors, 
Magpie,  price  about  28.  6d.  ;  Constellation,  about  6d.  to 
I  Sd.  ;  and  Mme.  de  OraafI,  about  2d.    As  to  yellow  selfs,  it 


August  7, 1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


391 


you  have  not  Autocrat  (price  Id.),  get  it ;  it  is  one  of  the 
very  best,  unless  you  are  prepared  to  buy  Homespun  (Ms.). 
If  a  red  cuDor  a  red-edeed  cup  is  wanted,  Albatross  (Is.  3d.), 
Plamineo  (Is.),  Dorothy  Wemyss  (very  late,  but  good, 
about  Is.)  or  Crown  Prince  (ed.)  are  good  varieties  to 
include. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Plane  leaves  diseased  (E.  N.,  Grays). 

The  leaves  of  the  Plane  are  attacked  by  the 
fungus  Glooosporium  nervisequum,  which  is  pro- 
ducing the  spores  by  which  it  is  spread  in  great 
abundance  on  the  discoloured  patches  along  the 
nerves  of  the  leaf.  The  mycelium  of  the  fungus 
spreads  into  the  leaf-stalks  and  causes  the  early 
fall  of  the  foliage.  There  appears  to  be  no 
remedy  so  far  discovered.  The  diseased  leaves 
should  not  be  allowed  to  lie  upon  the  ground,  as 
from  them  the  spores  may  be  blown  or  otherwise 
carried  to  other  trees. 

Hedge  for  a  grarden  {M. ).— If  you  wish 

for  an  uncommon  hedge  along  the  bottom  of  your 
garden  and  j  ou  can  allow  a  fair  amount  of  room 
for  spreading,  you  could  not  do  better  than  plant 
Berberis  stenophylla.  This  is  evergreen  and 
one  of  the  most  lovely  shrubs  imaginable  when 
in  flower.  To  be  seen  at  its  best  it  must  be 
allowed  to  grow  freely  and  in  an  informal  manner ; 
consequently,  if  you  desire  a  clipped  hedge  you 
had  better  plant  Holly  or  Yew.  The  side  ever- 
green hedges  would  look  better  if  both  were  the 
same  thing.  If  you  wish  to  do  so,  you  could 
make  both  of  Holly  or  Yew  and  use  the  Oak  at 
the  bottom.  Variegated  sorts  could  be  used 
were  it  not  for  the  second  hedges  ;  but  the  dark 
green  of  common  Holly,  Yew  or  Oak  would 
form  a  better  background  for  the  Roses.  The 
Penzance  Briars  would  do  well  in  the  position 
you  name,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  get  very  high ; 
out  the  strong  shoots  halfway  back  in  the  summer. 
For  the  other  hedges  you  might  use  Rosa 
rugosa  hybrids.  A  first-rate  white  one  with  large, 
fragrant,  semi-double  flowers  is  Blanc  Double  de 
Coubert,  and  a  red  one  is  Mrs.  Anthony  Waterer. 
If,  however,  you  prefer  rambling  sorts,  Dorothy 
Perkins  and  Hiawatha  could  be  planted.  It 
must,  however,  be  remembered  that  both  are 
very  rampant  growers,  and  there  would  be  more 
likelihood  of  them  interfering  with  the  hedge 
than  the  hedge  with  them.  The  hedge  can 
easily  be  kept  from  overshadowing  the  Roses  by 
clipping.  A  hedge  of  mixed  Roses,  such  as  you 
suggest,  could  be  used,  but  you  will  probably 
find  single  sorts  better. 

Akebia  not  flo\rei>In£r  (lfewcastle),—It  Akabia 
quinata  is  planted  la  the  shade  or  growing  in  a  very 
luxuriant  manner  it  often  falls  to  flower.  In  order  to 
indue*  it  to  bloom  freely  it  is  very  necessary  that  the 
wood  be  well  ripened.  For  this  reason  it,  as  a  rule,  will 
flower  best  when  trained  to  a  south  wall  or  given  a  good 
light  position  in  the  greenhouse.  The  drooping  referred 
to  in  your  letter  is  probably  caused  by  dryness  at  the  roots. 
We  are  sorry  that  we  do  not  know  where  you  can  obtain 
a  Vinegar  Plant.  It  may  sometimes  he  met  with  in 
country  districts.  Perhaps  some  reader  of  THE  Garden 
can  oblige  with  the  information. 

Oak  attacked  by  Insect  (G.  F.  Brmim).— It  is 
difficult  to  advise  you  respecting  the  insect  which  attacks 
your  Oak  without  knowing  what  the  insect  is.  The 
following  insecticide  will,  however,  suffice  for  ordinary 
aphis :  Mix  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  soft  soap  into  a 
liquid  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  add  half  a  pint  of 
paraflin  while  hot,  well  stir  and  add  to  three  gallons 
of  soft  water.  With  a  syringe  or  spray,  keeping  well  mixed, 
spray  the  tree  with  it.  If  the  insects  appear  to  eat  the 
leaves,  mix  half  an  ounce  of  Paris  green  into  a  paste  with 
a  little  water  and  then  make  up  to  six  gallons  with  water 
and  spray  with  the  mixture.  With  the  latter  mixture  be 
careful  not  to  use  it  if  you  have  any  broken  skin  on  your 
hands,  for  it  is  very  poisonous. 


till  the  roots  take  hold  of  the  new  soil.  When 
this  is  the  case  the  lights  should  be  left  off  alto- 
gether. Do  not  let  the  plants  flower.  By  the 
middle  of  August  you  should  be  again  able  to 
divide  the  plants  and  pot  them  into  small  pots, 
say,  3  inches  or  .3J  inches  in  diameter.  As  the 
growth  will  be  young  and  vigorous,  they  will  soon 
become  established,  and  may  be  wintered  in  a 
good  light  position  in  the  greenhouse.  A  free 
circulation  of  air  should  be  given  whenever  pos- 
sible, and  watering  must  be  very  carefully  done, 
for  this  Lobelia,  from  its  dense,  compact  growth, 
is  liable  to  damp  during  wet  weather.  In  March 
the  plants  may  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  when 
they  will  come  on  quickly  and  be  in  flower  by 
bedding-out  time.  Even  if  the  plants  are  bedded 
out  now  you  must  be  prepared  to  sacrifice  this 
season's  display  in  order  to  work  up  so  large  a 
stock.  In  a  close  propagating-oase  cuttings 
formed  of  the  young  growing  (not  flowering) 
shoots  will  root  readily,  and  a  considerable 
number  can  be  obtained  in  this  way. 

Opchid  leaves  spotted  (S.  Waiter).— There  is  no 
doubt  that  the  brown  spots  and  patches  on  the  mature 
leaves  of  the  Coelogyne  are  caused  by  an  excess  of 
atmospheric  moisture  combined  with  too  low  a  tem- 
perature. 


THE    GREENHOUSB. 

Lapge  Lobelia  plants  fop  next 
BpPingr  (-^-  Upstein),  — Presumably  the  five 
dozen  plants  referred  to  by  you  are  in  pots, 
though  on  this  point  you  say  nothing.  If  so,  cut 
off  all  the  flowers,  and  when  the  plants  break 
into  growth  after  this  operation  it  will  be  an  easy 
matter  to  divide  them,  leaving  a  few  roots  on 
each  pieoe.  Then  pot  them  in  small  pots  and 
place  in  a  frame,  shading  from  bright  sunshine 


hripht  davs.  By  the  autumn  the  plants  will  have 
made  srrowths  from  10  feet  to  20  feet  in  length.  Kemove 
r,hem  to  a  sunny  spot  outdoors  hy  the  find  of  Aupust,  and 
keep  them  there  until  the  end  of  October,  when  they 
should  be  removed  to  a  cold  greenhouse.  If  you  desire  to 
force  the  plants  to  bloora  early  in  the  year,  they  should 
be  allowed  about  three  months  from  the  time  of  pruning 
to  the  flowering.  This  would  he  in  a  very  moderate  heat, 
startintr,  say,  at  about  45°  at  nieht  and  never  more  than 
about  55°  at  nieht.  The  pruning  will  merely  consist  of 
shortening  back  the  lateral  growths  to  one  •r  two  eyes  and 
the  unripened  ends  of  the  long  growths.  They  may  now 
either  be  grown  in  a  pillar  form  or  twined  round  four 
sticks  stuck  in  the  pot ;  or  you  can  train  them  into 
almost  any  shape  desired.  This  is  best  done  when  in  the 
dormant  state.  A  top-dressing  of  some  good  fertiliser  or 
bone-meal  should  be  given  after  the  pruning,  and  as  new 
growths  increase  in  strensrth  some  liquid  manure  may  be 
given.  When  growth  is  very  active  the  pots  need  careful 
watching,  for  they  will  often  require  watering  three  or 
four  times  a  day.  In  reply  to  your  second  query,  we  may 
say  that  the  treatment  as  to  growing  on  the  weeping 
Roses  in  pots  will  be  very  similar  to  that  detailed  above, 
excepting,  of  course,  the  growths  are  allowed  to  droop. 
These  should  be  very  sparingly  pruned  until  they  have 
developed  good,  large  heads :  then  the  old  wood  is  rem  oved 
and  replaced  by  the  new.  Hoops  may  be  inserted  under 
the  heads  to  keep  growths  away  from  the  stem  and  also 
to  encourage  a  more  uniform  growth.  When  these  weeping 
Roses  require  repotting  (which  would  he  when  the  pots  are 
full  of  roots'),  the  work  must  be  done  most  carefully,  so 
that  the  ball  of  earth  is  not  broken  much.  Often 
standard  Roses  in  pots  are  not  repotted  for  three  or  four 
years,  but  they  need  frequent  top-dressings  of  good  com- 
post in  which  some  Clay's  Fertilizer  or  other  good  manure 
has  been  added. 


ROSE    GASDBN. 

Rose  foUage  diseased  {E.  M.  Laing). 
We  are  glad  you  find  The  Garden  so  helpful  to 
you.  From  your  description  the  disease  upon 
your  Roses  is  that  known  as  black  spot.  There 
is  no  fungicide  that  will  cure  it  when  once  it  has 
got  a  hold  upon  the  plants.  The  best  plan  is  to 
pick  off  the  diseased  leaves  and  also  those  upon 
the  ground  and  burn  them.  During  the  resting 
season  have  an  inch  of  the  surface  soil  removed 
and  burnt,  replacing  with  sweet  soil.  Imme- 
diately after  pruning  commence  to  spray  the 
shoots  with  sulphide  of  potassium  or  Bordeaux 
mixture,  and  continue  to  do  this  thoroughly 
right  through  the  season.  We  have  not  found 
Roses  on  their  own  roots  so  prone  to  this  disease 
as  budded  plants.  If  your  soil  is  at  all  deficient  in 
drainage  you  should  have  this  seen  to,  as  stag- 
nant water  would  be  a  means  of  extending 
the  trouble.  Lime  in  the  soil  has  a  very  beneficial 
effect  upon  the  plants.  This  can  be  applied  as  a 
surface-dressing  and  well  hoed  in.  Give  the 
plants  plenty  of  space  to  grow,  allowing  air  to 
circulate  freely  among  them,  and  keep  the  surface 
soil  well  tilled  and  hoed  at  frequent  intervals. 

Rose   K.  A.  Victoria  with   bpoken  bud 

(H.  A.  Ford,ham).—Some  of  the  Hose  heetles  which  carry  out 
their  mischievous  worli  by  night  will  often  sever  the  buds 
in  the  manner  described.  We  advise  you  to  make  a  search 
each  evening  with  a  lantern  for  any  such  marauders  and 
quickly  despatch  them.  The  Rose  has  probably  more 
enemies,  insectivorous  and  fungoid,  than  any  other 
plant,  but  by  diligence  they  can  be  overcome.  We  hope 
you  will  be  successful  in  your  efforts  in  Rose-growing,  for 
yours  is  not  an  ideal  district,  although  we  have  seen  some 
very  creditable  specimens  grown  in  that  part  of  Essex. 

Lienarth  to  cut  Rose  blooms  ((?.  B.  B.).—Ab  a 
rule,  a  length  of  6  inches  to  7  inches  may  safely  be  adopted 
when  cutting  Roses,  but  occasionally  a  greater  length  is 
permissible.  If  the  plant  carried  several  shoots,  each 
having  a  bloom  or  bud,  one  might  very  well  cut  one  or 
two  of  such  shoots  some  12  inches  in  length.  In  reply  to 
your  second  query,  a  capital  book  on  pruning  Roses  can 
be  obtained  from  the  National  Rose  Society,  but  it  must 
be  through  a  member  of  that  society.  The  price  is  28.  6d. 
"  Roses  and  Rose  Culture,"  by  William  Paul,  price  Is.,  is 
a  cheap  and  excellent  little  work  for  the  beginner  and  can  be 
obtained  from  any  bookstall.  A  more  expensive  and  more 
comprehensive  book  is  "Roses  for  English  Gardens," 
obtainable  from  this  office. 

Vrichupaiana  Roses  In  pots  (C.  H.).— These 
Roses  should  be  encouraged  to  make  good  growth  during 
the  early  summer,  so  that  the  shoots  may  be  well  ripened 
in  autumn.  It  is  upon  the  one  and  two  year  old  wood 
that  the  grower  depends  for  his  blooms  the  following 
spring.  You  do  not  say  what  size  plants  yours  are  or  how 
long  they  have  been  in  pots.  When  the  pots  are  full  of 
roots  they  should  be  repotted  into  a  larger-sized  pot,  but 
not  over-potted.  Usually  these  Roses  bloom  profusely  in 
pots  of  about  10  inches  in  diameter,  and  it  is  well  to  have 
the  pots  rather  too  small  than  too  large.  Tie  the  growths 
up  to  a  strong  stake,  or  train  them  on  the  roof  of  the 
greenhouse.  If  on  a  stake,  give  them  plenty  of  space  to 
develop.  Keep  the  house  rather  close,  only  giving  air  on 
hot  days,  and  afford  plenty  of  moisture  to  the  roots 
and  syringe  the  growths  as  well.  On  the  paths  of  the 
greenhouse    water    should   be   sprinkled   frequently   on 


FRUIT    GARDlE^f. 
Peach     leaves     top     inspection 

{W.  R.). — ^The  Peach  leaves  are  affected  with  a 
disease  called  "shot-hole,"  on  account  of  the 
dropping  out  «f  the  part  of  the  leaf  attacked  by 
a  fungus.  The  fungus  is  Ceroospora  cireumscissa, 
and  produces  its  spores  upon  the  portion  of  the 
leaf  that  drops  out.  The  spread  of  the  disease  is 
effected  by  means  of  these  spores,  and  the  only 
means  of  checking  it  is  to  cover  the  leaves  with 
a  thin  film  of  a  substance  that  will  prevent  the 
germination  of  the  spores.  Peach  foliage  being 
very  delicate,  aramoniaeal  copper  carbonate  is  to 
be  recommeneed  in  place  of  Bordeaux  mixture. 
This  is  made  by  making  5oz.  of  copper  carbonate 
into  a  thin  paste  with  water,  adding  three  pints 
of  the  strongest  ammonia  and  diluting  the  whole 
with  water  to  make  forty-five  gallons.  It  should 
be  sprayed  on  as  a  very  fine  spray. 

Pear  and  Fig  tress  ( W.  R.  G.,  Dublin). 
We  are  glad  to  hear  that  the  suggestions  we 
had  the  pleasure  of  making  to  you  last  autumn 
re  the  treatment  of  your  neglected  Fig  and  Pear 
trees  have  been  of  some  help  to  you.  As  regards 
the  Fig  tree,  if  you  will  persevere  in  the  treat- 
ment indicated,  we  have  no  doubt  that  the  im- 
provement will  be  progressive  and  permanent, 
and  that  instead  of  the  dozen  fruits  you  have  this 
year  you  will  have  more  than  double  next  year. 
The  great  thing  to  see  to  is  to  thin  out  the  trees 
in  summer  of  the  weak  and  useless  growths 
the  trees  make,  which  prevent  the  stronger 
shosts  from  exposure  to  plenty  of  sunlight 
and  air,  so  necessary  for  the  proper  ripening 
of  the  fruit-bearing  shoots.  It  is  on  these 
shoots  that  the  next  year's  crop  depends,  and 
it  is  frequently  we  see  one  of  those  branches 
bearing  from  three  to  six  well-developed  and 
perfect  fruits  on  one  branch.  As  regards  your 
Pear  tree,  we  advise  you  to  have  it  root- 
pruned  in  the  autumn  as  soon  as  the  leaves 
have  fallen.  The  effect  of  this  will  be  to  reduce 
the  density  of  wood  and  foliage  growth,  and  to 
promote  the  formation  of  more  and  better 
developed  and  ripened  wood-buds.  It  is  not 
unusual  for  the  Pear  to  bear  a  second  crop  of 
fruit,  but  as  a  rule  the  size  and  quality  are  not  so 
goed. 

Goosetoeppy  bushes  attacked  (Dr.  S.).— 
These  are  not  attacked  by  the  American  Gooseberry 
mildew,  but  by  Gooseberry  red  spider.  They  should  be 
sprayed  with  a  solution  of  loz.  of  potassium  sulphide  in 
three  gallons  of  water. 

Ooosebeppy  leaves  for  insDection  (A.  G.).— 
The  Gooseberry  leaf  is  not  attacked  by  the  American 
Gooseberry  mildew.  The  blistering  and  reddish  coloration 
of  the  Currant  leaf  is  due  to  the  attack  upon  it  of  the 
Currant  aphis  (Khopalosiphen  ribis).    The  bushes  should 


392 


THE    GAEDEN. 


(August  7,  1909. 


be  sprayed  very  early  in  the  season  with  paraffin  emulflion 
or  with  quassia  and  soft  soap. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Names  of  plants.—  Mrs.  Ciilmss.  —  i,  Mme. 
d'Arblay ;  2,  Celestial,  known  as  Maiden's  Blush,  but 
it  diflfers  and  is  better  than  the  true  variety  of  Maiden's 

Blush. Heather.— Ce\eatia.\. Mfs.    Batt.—l,    Senecio 

ppecies,  leaves  required  for  name  ;  2,  send  when  in  flower  ; 
:i,  Aster  foliaceus  Burkei ;  4,  Helenium  species,  leaves  and 
better  flowers  required  ;  5,  Philadelphus  grandiflorus ; 
6,  Tradescantia  vii^iniana ;    7,  Philadelphus  coronarius. 

3f.— CJalium  verum  (Lady's  Bedstraw). Spondtm.— 

Libertia  fonnosa. GcmW.— Sidalcea  mariana. F.  H. 

—Sweet  Peas  :  1,  Gladys  Unwin  ;  2,  John  Ingman  ;  3,  not 
recognised ;  4,  possibly  Helen  Lewis ;  5,  Queen  Alexandra ; 
6,  Agnes  Johnstone  ;  7,  Mrs.  Walter  Wright ;  8,  Brilliant 
Blue  ;  9,  not  recognised.  Roses :  1,  Liberty  ;  2  Comtesse 
du  Cayla ;  3,  Caroline  Testout.  This  is  as  near  as  we  can 
say,  as  the  blooms  bad  fallen  and  you  sent  no  foliage  or 

growth  to  aid  us  in  their  identification. Byjleet.—'i'he 

Rose  is  Mildred  Grant.  The  specimens  sent  "were  very 
good,  although  this  Rose  is  an  exceptionally  large 
variety.  Are  you  certain  the  R^ses  are  on  their  own 
roots  and  not  budded?  If  on  their  own  roots,  it  would 
appear   that   you    have   discovered    the  correct  way  of 

growing    this    rather    erratic     Rose. J.    A. — Mesem- 

bryanthemum  species ;  flowers  required  for  deter- 
mination.  A.  B.  S(ereiison.~The  specimen  cannot  be 

named  without  flowers  ;  please  send  again  when  in  flower. 


THE 


GARDEN " 
SHOW. 


FLOWER 


(Centinued  from  Supplement.  J 
■Vegetables. 
In  Class  60,  for  six  dishes  of  Peas,  distinct, 
first  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  Mark  Webster, 
gardener  to  E.  J.  Preston,  Esq.,  Beokenham, 
with  an  excellent  lot ;  second,  Mr.  Thomas 
Grant,  High  Park  Gardens,  Stanford ;  third, 
Mr.  R.  Brown,  St.  Leonard's  Hill,  Windsor. 

Class  61  was  for  three  dishes  of  Peas,  first 
prize  going  to  Mr.  Mark  Webster,  gardener  to 
E.  J.  Preston,  Esq.,  Kelsey  Park,  Beokenham  ; 
second,  Mr.  R.  Staward,  Panshanger  ;  and  third, 
Mr.  G.  Horlook,  gardener  to  Dr.  Walters, 
Famham. 

Class  62,  for  one  dish  of  Peas  :  First,  Mr.  Mark 
Webster,  gardener  toE.  J.  Preston,  Esq.,  Kelsey 
Park,  Beokenham,  with  Duke  of  Albany  ;  second, 
H.  T.  Tatham,  Esq.,  Elstree,  Herts,  with  Quite 
Content ;  third,  Miss  Colvin,  Ketton  Hall 
Gardens,  Ketton.  All  the  classes  for  Peas  were 
very  keenly  contested. 

In  Class  63,  for  three  dishes  of  Potatoes,  Mr. 
T.  Stevenson  was  first ;  Mr.  A.  Gentle,  second  ; 
and  Mr.   W.   Waterton,  third,  a  very  fine   lot 


FIRST   PRIZE  COLLECTION   OF  SIX   DISHES   OF  FRUIT  (AMATEURS'   SECTION). 
(Shown  hit  Mr.  F.  Hayter,  The  Lodge,  Fkldhurst,  Addlestone,  Surrey.) 


of  tubers  being  staged  throughout  the  whole 
class. 

In  Class  64,  for  one  dish  of  Potatoes,  nine 
tubers,  first  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  A.  Gentle, 
Little  Gaddesdon,  Berkhamsted,  for  a  superb 
dish  of  Duke  of  York;  second  to  Mr.  W.  Waterton, 
for  Empress  ;  and  third  to  Mr.  E.  Montague, 
gardener  to  Colonel  Biddulph,  Ham,  Richmond. 
There  were  many  fine  dishes  in  this  class,  there 
being  twenty  competitors. 

Class  65  was  for  one  dish  of  Tomatoes,  first 
prize  being  well  won  by  H.  T.  Tatham,  Esq  ; 
second,  Mr.  J.  Tomlin ;  and  third,  Mr.  A.  E. 
Usher. 

In  Class  66,  for  a  brace  of  Cucumbers,  the  first 
and  second  prizes  went  respectively  to  Mr.  J. 
Tomlin  and  Mr.  E.  Clements. 

Class  67  was  for  nine  autumn-sown  Onions, 
Mr.  A.  E.  Usher  being  first ;  William  C.  White, 
Esq. ,  second ;  and  Mr.  R.  Staward  third. 

In  Class  68,  for  nine  spring-sown  Onions,  first 
honours  went  to  E.  Watford,  Esq.,  Weybridge  ; 
second  to  Mr.  R.  Staward  ;  and  third  to  H.  T. 
Tatham,  Esq. 

Class  69  was  for  two  Vegetable  Marrows,  and 
the  prizes  were  awarded  as  follows  :  First,  Mr. 
A.  E.  Usher  ;  second,  Mr.  W.  Waterton  ;  third, 
Mr   R.  Staward. 

In  Class  70,  for  one  bunch  of  Intermediate 
Carrots,  A.  H.  Boys,  Esq. ,  was  first  and  Mr.  R. 
Staward  second. 

Class  71  was  for  one  bunch  of  stump-rooted 
Carrots,  first  prize  going  to  A.  H.  Boys,  Esq.  ; 


FIRST  PRIZE  COLLECTION   OF  SIX   KINDS   OF  VEGETABLES   (AMATEURS'   SECTION). 
{Shoivn  by  Mr.  A^  Childs.) 


second  to  Mr.  R.  Brown ;  and  third  to  H.  T. 
Tatham,  Esq. 

In  Class  72,  for  three  Beets,  tap-rooted,  H.  T. 
Tatham,  Esq.,  Mr.  J.  T.  Tubb  and  Mr.  Mark 
Webster  were  the  prize-winners  in  the  order 
named. 

In  Class  73,  for  three  Beets,  Turnip-rooted, 
first  prize  went  to  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher  ;  saoond  to 
Mr.  W.  Waterton  ;  and  third  to  Mr.  W.  G.  Child. 


LADIES'    CLASSES. 

For  a  table  deoeration  of  Roses,  first  honours 
fell  to  Mrs.  A.  Robinson,  Carshalton,  who  had 
a  sweetly  pretty  arrangement ;  second,  Miss 
Adelaide  F.  Harwood,  Colchester  ;  third,  Mrs. 
Gentle,  Little  Gaddesdon,  Berkhamsted,  whose 
Roses  were  very  beautiful. 

For  a  table  deeoration  of  any  flowers,  Mrs. 
A.  Robinson,  Carshalton,  Surrey,  was  again 
first  with  Lilium  speciosum  and  Grasses  ;  second, 
Mrs.  Edwards,  Warwick  Terrace,  Sydenham, 
who  arranged  pink  and  cream  Sweet  Peas  vory 
tastefully  ;  third,  Mrs.  Thomas  Aley,  East 
Finchley. 

For  a  basket  of  any  flowers,  Mrs.  R.  H.  Tennant, 
Goedmayes,  Essex,  was  first  with  a  charming 
arrangement  of  pink  Carnations  and  Gladioli 
The  Bride.  Mrs.  Edwards,  Sydenham ;  and  Mrs. 
A.  Swann,  Billericay,  Essex,  followed  in  the 
order  named. 

First  prize  for  a  bouquet  of  any  flowers  was 
won  by  Mrs.  Tennant ;  second,  Mrs.  Crease ; 
third.  Miss  A.  F.  Harwood. 

For  a  lady's  spray  of  any  flowers,  Mrs.  H.  L. 
Sell,  Lut«n ;  Mrs.  Swann,  Billericay,  Essex ;  and 
Miss  Harwood,  Colchester,  won  in  the  order 
'lamed  ;  and  for  a  gentleman's  buttonhole,  any 
aowers,  Mrs.  H.  L.  Sell ;  Mrs.  H.  J.  Brill,  Pres- 
ton Park,  Brighton ;  and  Mrs.  Gentle,  Little 
Gaddesdon,  were  the  respective  winners. 


MEDAL     AWARDS. 

The  gold  medal  for  the  best  exhibit  in  the 
whole  show  was  awarded  to  H.  T.  Tatham,  Esq., 
Kendall  Hall,  Elstree  (gardener,  Mr.  William 
Gaiger),  for  a  superb  collection  of  twelve  distinct 
kinds  of  vegetables. 

Four  competitors  tied  for  the  silver  medal 
offered  to  the  winner  of  the  most  first  prizes  in 
the  amateur  section,  and  a  medal  will,  therefore, 
be  presented  to  each  of  the  following  :  Mr.  W.  G. 
Cramp,  Fallsbrook  Road,  Streatham ;  Mr.  R. 
Foley  Hobbs,  Thorneloe,  Worcester ;  Mr.  H. 
Childs,  Alresford,  Hants;  and  Dr.  Boys,  The 
(irange,  St.  Albans.  The  silver  medal  in  the  open 
section  was  won  by  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher,  gardener 
to  Sir  Randolf  Baker,  Bart.,  Ranston,  Blandford. 

The  produce  not  claimed  by  exhibitors  was 
sent  to  the  following  hospitals  :  The  Gordon 
Hospital,  Vauxhall  Bridge  Road  ;  The  Grosvenor 
Hospital,  Vincent  Square  ;  and  the  Westminster 
Hospital. 

Several  exhibits  arrived  at  the  Hall  after 
judging  had  commenced,  and  these,  of  course, 
could  not  be  staged. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  August  7, 1909. 


4( 


THE   GARDEN"  FLOWER    SHOW. 


IT  is  with  great  pleasure  that  we  have  to 
record  that  the  second  annual  show 
arranged  by  the  Proprietors  of  The 
Garden  for  our  readers  proved  a  magnifi- 
cent and  unqualified  success,  the  entries 
in  every  class  far  exceeding  those  of  last  year. 
The  large  hall  and  both  annexes  were  completely 
filled,  and,  in  addition  to  these,  the  lecture-room 
and  one  committee-room  on  the  first  floor  were 
filled  with  vegetable  exhibits,  which  were  of 
exceedingly  good  quality.  The  beauty  of  the 
exhibition  was  considerably  enhanced  by  the 
many  beautiful  Palms  and  other  foliage  plants 
kindly  lent  for  the  Sweet  Pea  tables  by  Messrs. 
Stuart  Low  and  Co.  of  Bush  Hill  Park.  Following 
will  be  found  the  names  of  the  prize-winners  in 
the  various  classes : 


AMATEURS'  CLASSES. 
Sweet  Peas. 
Eighteen  bunches  of  Sweet  Peas,  distinct : 
First,  Mr.  Marshall  Y.  Green,  Eynsford,  Kent, 
who  had  a  beautiful,  clean  and  well-finished  set 
of  flowers,  including  Sutton's  Queen,  Menie 
Christie,  Apple  Blossom,  Frank  Dolby,  Mrs.  H. 
Sykes,  Prince  of  Asturias,  Audrey  Crier,  Helen 
Lewis,  Mrs.  Collier,  John  Ingman,  Helen  Pierce, 
Countess  Spencer,  Hannah  Dale,  The  Marquis, 
King  Edward  VII. ,  Mother  o'  Pearl  and  Jessie 
Cuthbertson  ;  second,  G.  Davidson,  Esq. ,  Quad- 
rant Road,  Thornton  Heath,  who  followed 
closely  with  fine  flowers  of  Asta  Ohn,  Mrs.  A. 


Ireland  and  George  Herbert  ;  third,  G.  H. 
Gray,  Esq.,  9,  Blaokborough  Road,  Reigate, 
Surrey  ;  fourth,  C.  Wallace  Cox,  Esq. ,  Church 
Road,  Malvern  Link.  There  were  ten  entries 
in  this  class. 

For  twelve  bunches,  distinct :  First,  E.  T. 
Baker,  Esq. ,  63,  Brigstoek  Road,  Thornton  Heath, 
who  staged  an  admirable  lot  of  flowers — Mrs. 
Routzahn,  Helen  Lewis,  Countess  Spencer, 
Constance  Oliver,  Prince  of  Asturias,  Frank 
Dolby,  Evelyn  Hemus,  Mrs.  H.  Sykes,  G. 
Herbert,  Asta  Ohn,  Malcolm's  Waved  Cream, 
and  The  King ;  second,  Mr.  Marshall  Y.  Green, 
with  a  well-set-up  exhibit,  including  G.  Herbert 
and  The  Marquis;  third,  E.  C.  Hole,  Esq., 
Winforton,  Hereford ;  fourth,  Henry  Lewis,  Esq. , 
Hayes,  Kent.     Eighteen  entries. 

Six  bunches,  distinct :  First,  W.  G.  Cramp, 
Esq.,  175,  Fallsbrook  Road,  Streatham,  whose 
very  fine  stand  included  Countess  Spencer,  Nora 
Unwin,  Elsie  Herbert,  Helen  Lewis,  Paradise 
Ivory  and  John  Ingman  ;  second,  F.  Green,  Esq., 
Inverary,  The  Polygon,  Southampton,  who 
had  fine  bunches  of  Helen  Lewis  and  King 
Edward  VII.  ;  third,  J.  A.  Newman,  Esq., 
Elmgrove  Road,  Weybridge  ;  fourth,  the  Rev. 
J.  B.  Shackle,  Dropniore  Vicarage,  Maidenhead. 
There  were  thirty-three  entries  in  this  class. 

Three  bunches,  distinct :  First,  F.  Green, 
Esq.,  who  had  fine  clean  bunches  of  Evelyn 
Hemus,  Countess  Spencer  and  King  Edward  VIL  ; 
second,  W.  G.  Cramp,  Esq.,  who  closely  followed 
him  and  had  John  Ingman  in  excellent  form  ; 
third,  B.  W.  Lewis,  Esq.     Thirty-six  entries. 

One  bunch,  distinct :  First,  F.  Green,  Esq., 
with  an  admirable  vase  of  Helen  Lewis  ;  second. 


J.  A.  Newman,  Esq. ,  with  the  same  variety ;  third, 
W.  G.  Cramp,  Esq.     Forty-seven  entries. 

Habdt   Flowers. 

Class  6,  for  six  bunches  of  hardy  herbaceous 
flowers,  was  filled  with  ten  competitors,  and 
made  a  beautiful  display.  Leading  honours 
were  secured  by  Mr.  John  Bland,  Welland 
Park,  Market  Harborough,  who  had  bold  and 
handsome  bunches  of  Gaillardias,  Eryngiums, 
Achillea  Ptarmica  The  Pearl,  Helenium  grandi- 
cephalum  striatum,  Centaurea  macroeephala, 
Delphiniums,  Erigeron  speciosum,  Liliums  and 
Monarda  didyma.  Second  prize  was  won  by 
Mr.  H.  L.  Sell,  Kempton  Villa,  Cromwell  Road, 
Luton ,  who  also  had  a  beautiful  series.  A  pretty 
collection  won  third  prize  for  Miss  May  E. 
Shears,  Thorley  Pyrford,  Woking,  Surrey  ;  and 
Mr.  George  Cheney,  3tj,  Broadway,  Kettering, 
was  fourth. 

There  were  no  fewer  than  fourteen  entries  in 
the  class  for  six  bunches  of  hardy  herbaceous 
flowers,  and  the  whole  of  them  showed  well.  A 
grand  series  won  first  prize  for  Mr.  F.  Gower, 
The  Vicarage  Cottage,  Petersham,  Surrey,  which 
included  Alstrcemeria  aurea.  Chrysanthemum 
maximum.  Phlox,  Chelone  barbata  seedlings, 
Aoonitum  Napellus  bicolor  and  Eryngium 
giganteum.  A  capital  second  was  found  in  Mr. 
A.  Childs,  gardener  to  the  Hon.  F.  Baring, 
Alresford,  Hants.  His  Delphiniums  and  Achillea 
were  beautiful.  Third  prize  was  well  won  by 
the  Rev.  J.  B.  Shackle,  Dropmore  Vicarage, 
Maidenhead,  who  had  handsome  bunches.  Fourth 
prize  was  secured  by  a  cottager,  Mr.  W.  Bignell, 
5,  Castle  Yard,  Highgate,  N. 


a  general  view  of  the  show  at  opening  time. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  August  7,  1909. 


Roses. 

Twenty-one  exhibits  of  twelve  Roses,  distinct, 
were  set  up  in  Class  S  and  made  a  brave  show. 
First  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  R.  Foley  Hobbs, 
Thorneloe,  Worcester,  who  had  a  good  box  of 
blooms.  The  beat  specimens  were  Couatesj  of 
Derby,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Bessie  Brown, 
Dean  Hole,  Mildred  Grant,  Dake  of  Wellington 
and  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria.  Second  prize 
was  secured  by  Mr.  Lewis  Pawle,  Rowsham, 
Harrow,  with  large  flowers  that  had  felt  the 
unfavourable  weather  of  Ute.  A  neit  box  of 
blooms  won  third  prize  for  Mr.  (ieorge  Boyd, 
gardener  to  Mr.  S.  F.  .Jackson,  Danehurst, 
Epsom. 

Class  9,  for  six  Tea  Roses,  distinct,  was  contested 
by  nine  exhibitors,  Mr.  Foley  Hobbs  again  head- 
ing the  list  with  cipital  blooms  of  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley,  Mme.  .Jules  (Jravereaux,  Comtesse  de 
Nadaillac,  Mme.  Cusin,  Muriel  Grahame  and 
another.  The  Rev.  J.  B.  Shackle  was  a  good 
second,  having  a  lovely  bloom  of  Mrs.  Edward 
Mawley.  Third  prize  was  secured  by  the  Rev. 
J.  H.  Pemberton,  Hiveriag-atte-Bower,  Ejsex  ; 
and  fourth  prize  went  to  Mr.  George  Boyd. 

There  were  eleven  exhibitors  in  Class  10  for  six 
Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses,  distinct.  Mr.  R.  Foley 
Hobbs  again  triumphed  with  a  beautiful  series, 
showing  Helen  Keller,  Victor  Hugo,  Mrs.  John 
Liing,  Horace  Vernet  and  others.  Second  prize 
was  secured  by  Mr.  F.  Pridham,  Chipstead, 
Surrey.  Third  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  E.  M. 
Morris,  Uck6eld,  Sussex  ;  and  fourth  prize  went 
to  Mr.  H.  Matthews,  Old  School  House,  Brock- 
ham,  Surrey. 

There  were  no  fewer  than  eighteen  entries  in 
the  class  for  six  Hybrid  Tea  Roses,  distinct.  In 
this  competition  the  Rev.  .J.  B.  Shackle  was 
well  to  the  fore  with  good  blooms,  showing  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant,  Mrs.  T.  Roosevelt,  Gladys  Hark- 
ness.  Duchess  of  Portland,  Queen  of  Spain  and 
Florence  Pemberton  ;  Mr.  R.  Foley  Hobbs  was 
placed  second  with  an  interesting  series  ;  the 
Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton,  third,  with  a  capital  set ; 
and  fourth  prize  went  to  Mr.  E.  M.  Morris  for  a 
meritorious  display. 

Violas  and  Pansibs. 
Violas  were  plentifully  shown,  the  competition 
being  keen.  Eighteen  exhibits  were  staged  in 
Class  12  for  six  varieties  of  Violas,  three  blooms  of 
each.  First  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  A.  Billing- 
ham,  290,  Camberwell  New  Road,  S.  E, ,  for  blooms 
of  fair  quality  ;  Mrs.  Chichester,  Swan,  Admiral 
of  the  Blues,  JJuke  of  Argyle,  Mrs.  J.  H.  Rowlands 
and  another  were  his  varieties.  Second  prize  was 
secured  by  Mr.  Marshall  G.  Green,  The  Lodge, 
Eynsford,  Kent,  with  a  fresh  and  attractive 
display.  A  beautiful  lot  of  flowers  won  third 
prize  for  Mr.  George  Davison,  Elm  Lodge, 
Quadrant  Road,  Thornton  Heath,  who  followed 
the  others  very  closely. 


FIKST  PRIZE  COLLHLTION  OF  FRUIT,  SIX  DISHES  (OPEN  SECTION).    (Shown  b/l  Mr.  T.  Ste.ren.-ion,  Addlestmle.) 


Class  "13,  for  six  fancy  Pansies,  found  Mr. 
W.  G.  Cramp,  175,  Fallsbrook  Road,  Streatham, 
S.W.,  leading,  followed  by  Mr.  D.  W.  Bedford, 
The  Braes,  Barkhamsted,  Herts,  for  second 
prize,  and  Mr.  Hugh  Jones,  Tudor  House,  New 
Barnet,  was  third. 

Annuals. 

Ten  entries  in  Class  14,  for  nine  kinds  of  annuals, 
one  bunch  of  eich,  made  a  most  attractive  display 
and  proved  the  value  of  these  annual  flowers  in 
no  uncertain  fashion.  First  prize  was  well  won 
by  Mr.  A.  Swann,  Ramsden  Heath,  Billericay, 
Essex,  who  had  beautiful  examples  of  Lupine, 
Phlox  Drummondi,  Gypsophila  elegans  rosea. 
Sweet  Peas,  Ten-week  Stock,  spiral  Candytuft, 
Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca.  Chrysanthemum 
inodorum  and  others.  An  excellent  second  was 
found  in  the  exhibit  of  Mr.  .John  Bland,  Market 
Harborough,  who  ran  the  first  prize  lot  uncom- 
fortably close.  A  capital  third  prize  series 
came  from  Mr.  George  Cheney,  31',,  Broadway, 
Kettering. 

Carnations. 

Class  15,  for  six  border  Carnations,  distinct, 
three  blooms  of  each,  was  represented  by  seven 
exhibits.  The  leading  group  came  from  Mr.  R. 
Morton,  Grange  Dene,  Woodside  Park,  N. ,  who 
set  up  superb  examples  of  Liberte,  Daffodils 
Agnes  Sorrel,  Rony  Buchanan,  Lord  Steyne  and 
Leonora.  Second  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  Lewis 
S.  Pawle,  who  had  good  blooms  ;  and  equal  third 
prizes  were  secured  by  Mr.  J.  Fairlie,  Acton, 
and  Mr.  W.  G.  Cramp,  175,  Fallsbrook  Road, 
Streatham,  S.  W. ,  both  showing  well. 

There  were  only  four  exhibits  in  Class  16  for 
three  varieties  of  border  Carnations,  distinct,  three 
blooms  of  each.  First  prize  was  secured  by  Mr. 
W.  G.  Cramp  with  beautiful  blooms  ;  Mr.  J.  N. 
Newman,  Elm  Cottage,  Elmgrove  Road,  Wey- 
bridge,  was  second  with  an  intereating  aeries ; 
and  third  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  W.  Webb, 
35,  Laurie  Park  Road,  Sydenham,  S.E. 


FIRST   PRIZE   exhibit  Or  KIGHTKEN   BDNCHES  OF  SWRET  PEAS   (OPEN   SECTION). 
{Shomi  by  Mr.  T.  Stemnson,  AddUatone.) 


Pot  Plants. 

Class  17,  for  three  Zonal  Pelargoniums  in 
bloom,  distinct,  was  contested  by  one  exhibitor 
only,  who  was  awarded  first  prize.  This  came 
from  Mr.  E.  Houlton,  Dulwioh,  S.E. 

Class  18,  for  three  Gloxinias  in  bloom,  had 
only  one  entry.  First  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr. 
J.  W.  Harrison,  Ashbourne  Stables,  Sydenham, 
S.E. 

The  competition  for  three  tuberous-rooted 
Begonias  in  bloom,  distinct,  was  better  ;  there 
were  four  entries.  First  prize  was  placed  to  the 
credit  of  Mr.  B.  Wilson,  The  Dell,  Leverstock 
Green,  Hemel  Hempstead,  Herts,  for  freely 
flowered  plants.  Mrs.  George  Gaily,  The  Holme, 
Walton-on-Thames,  had  good  plants  for  second 
prize ;  and  third  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  A. 
Cole,  Ippleden,  Hemel  Hempstead. 

Table  Decorations. 

Class  20,  for  a  table  decoration  of  Sweet  Peas, 
was  a  charming  feature  of  this  great  show. 
There  were  eleven  entries  in  this  class,  and 
premier  honours  went  deservedly  to  Mrs.  H. 
Percy  Cottam  Mallaig,  King'a  Langley,  Herts, 
for  a  beautiful  decoration  of  soft  pink  Sweet 
Peas.  The  arrangement  was  daintily  disposed, 
and  bright  green  fronds  of  Asparagus  were 
tastefully  interspersed  for  effect.  A  pretty 
decoration  won  second  prize  for  Mrs.  Gentle, 
Little  Gaddesden,  Berkhamsted,  who  had 
cream  and  pink  tinted  flowers  charmingly  asso- 
ciated with  beautiful  hardy  foliage.  A  novel 
display  secured  third  prize  for  Mrs.  C.  A.  L. 
Brown,  Hatfield  Peverel,  Essex,  who  had  Henry 
Eckford  and  cream  Sweet  Peas  contrasted  with 
tanned  Rose  growths  and  foliage. 

Class  21,  for  a  table  decoration  of  any  flowers, 
had  eleven  competitorB  and  was  a  most  interest- 
ing feature.  First  prize  was  awarded  to  Mrs. 
W.  A.  Hobbs,  54,  Wallburton  Road,  Brsokley, 
S.  E. ,  for  a  pleasing  artistic  creation  in  which  pale 
pink  Sweet  Peas,  sprays  of  Humea  elegans. 
Grasses  and  hardy  foliage  were  displayed  in 
pretty  fashion.  Mr.  George  Boyd  was  a  good 
second  with  Odontoglossums  set  up  in  handsome 
sprays  and  associated  with  bright  green  fronds 
of  Asparagus  and  Ferns.  This  exhibit  was  some- 
what crowded,  and  suffered  in  consequence. 
Third  prize  was  aeoured  by  Mrs.  George  Gaily, 
who  had  a  pretty  creation  but  rather  too 
dense.  Sweet  Peas  and  Spiraeas  were  the  flowers 
used. 

Frdit. 

Class  22,  for  six  dishes  of  amall  fruits,  was  a 
good  feature.  There  were  five  exhibits,  the 
leading  one  coming  from  Mr.  F.  Hayter,  The 
Lodge,  Fieldhurst.  Red  Currants,  Gooseberries, 
White  Currants  and  Black  Currants  were  all 
good.  Second  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  A.  Childs, 
Alresford,  Hants.  Raspberries  and  White 
Currants  were  excellent  in  this  act.  A  meri- 
torious aeries  secured  third  prize  for  Mr.  Hugh 
.Jones,  Tudor  House,  New  Barnet. 

For  Class  23  there  were  fourteen  exhibitors, 
and  without  exception  they  showed  well  three 
dishes  of  Gooseberries,  distinct.  A  grand  trio 
won  first  prize  for  Mr.  N.  Matthews,  gardener 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  August  7,  1909. 


to  The  Rectory  Gardens,  Brasted,  Kent.  The 
■quality  was  superb.  Second  prize  was  awarded 
to  Mr.  F.  Hayter,  who  had  three  very 
■even  dishes  of  fruits.  Excellent  were  the  three 
■dishes  in  the  third  prize  exhibit,  which  was 
staged Iby  Mr.  E.  H.  Guy,  9,  Blaokbrough  Road, 
Reigate,  Surrey. 

Ten  exhibits  were  set  up  in  the  class  for  three 
■dishes  of  Currants,  Red,  White  and  Black.  A 
^rand  trio  secured  first  prize  for  Mr.  F.  Hayter, 
who  staged  superb  fruits  for  the  coveted  honours. 
The  berries  and  bunches  were  large  and  the 
fruits  were  well  coloured.  Second  prize  went  to 
Mr.  R.  J.  6.  Read,  Cadbyrie  House,  Castlebar 
Hill,  Ealing,  W.,  who  ran  the  first  prize  series 
■olosely.  A  neat  lot  from  Mt.  A.  Childs  won 
"third  prize  in  this  class. 

There  were  also  ten  entries  in  Class  25,  for  a 
^iish  of  Raspberries,  a  magnificent  lot  of  large 
iruits  securing  leading  honours  for 
Mr.  A.  Childs.  Second  prize  was 
won  by  Mr.  Hugh  Jones  with  a 
good  exhibit ;  and  third  prize  was 
awarded  to  Mr.  N.  Matthews. 

Class  26  was  a  competition  for 
la  dish  of  any  fruit  not  mentioned 
in  the  other  classes.  With  a  dish 
of  Givon's  Late  Prolific  Strawberry, 
Mrs.  A.  M.  Piatt,  Ken  View,  View 
Road,  Highgate,  won  first  prize  ou 
•of  ten  exhibitors,  which  was  an 
excellent  achievement ;  a  good 
Melon  secured  second  prize  for 
Ijady  Susan  Trueman,  Bayman 
Manor,  Chesham,  Bucks ;  and  third 
prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  E. 
Houlton,  Dulwich,  S.  E. ,  for  Black 
Hamburgh  Grapes. 

Vegetablbs. 

In  Class  27,  for  a  collection  of  six 
'distinct  sorts  of  vegetables,  there 
were  four  excellent  exhibits.  First 
,prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  A. 
Childs  for  a  well-balanced  collec- 
tion, Tomatoes,  Carrots,  Onions, 
Peas  and  Cauliflowors  being  well 
shown ;  second  prize  was  secured 
by  Mr.  A.  H.  Boys,  The  Grange, 
St.  Albans,  Herts,  for  a  good  series  ; 
and  third  prize  went  to  Mr.  F.  J. 
■Gentle,  King's  Langley. 

The  seventeen  entries  in  Class  28, 
for  three  dishes  of  Peas,  distinct, 
formed  a  remarkable  display,  all 
ibeing  in  splendid  condition.  First 
prize  was  worthily  won  by  Mr.  W. 
Pultney,  Crescent  Road,  New 
IBarnet.  The  varieties  were  Duke 
■of  Albany,  Quite  Content  and  Ex- 
hibition, and  the  pods  were  large 
and  well  filled.  Mr.  J.  A.  Newman, 
Weybridge,  followed  very  closely 
for  second  prize ;  and  Mr.  N. 
Langley,  Bashey  Heath,  Herts,  was 
placed  third. 

No  fewer  than  thirty-six  exhibits 
were  staged  in  Class  29,   for  one 
■dish  of  Peas.     We  never  remember 
seeing  anything  better.    Quite  Con- 
tent won  first  prize  for  Mr.  Hugh 
■Jones,  who  showed  extremely  well. 
The  same  variety  secured   second    honours  for 
Mr.    E.    E.    Atkins,    6,    Lincoln   Road,    South 
Norwood,  S.E. ;  and  for  The  Beckett  Pea  Mr. 
dentle  was  awarded  third  prize. 

The  twenty  exhibits  in  Class  30,  for  three 
dishes  of  Potatoes,  "distinct,  formed  an  astonish- 
ing display.  The  tubers  were  staged  in 
■excellent  condition.  Leading  honours  fell  to 
the  lot  of  Mr.  A.  H.  Boys  ;  l)uke  of  York,  Sur- 
prise and  Snowdrop  were  his  varieties.  A  good 
second  was  found  in  the  exhibit  of  Mr.  W.  G. 
■Child,  Thornton  Heath,  S.E.,  who  had  an  even 
set  of  fine  tubers.  Third  prize  was  secured  by 
Mr.  A.  Childs.  with  a  wonderful  lot  of  clean,  well- 
£rown  tubers. 


There  were  no  fewer  than  thirty-seven  entries 
in  Class  31,  for  a  dish  of  nine  Potatoes.  A  grand 
dish  of  Duke  of  York  won  first  prize  for  Mr. 
Boys  ;  second  honours  were  won  by  Mr.  W.  G. 
Child,  also  with  fine  examples  of  Duke  of  York  ; 
and  third  prize  went  to  Mr.  A.  Childs  for  a 
beautiful  lot  of  Lord  Roberts. 

Nine  entries  in  Class  32,  for  a  dish  of  nine 
Tomatoes,  made  a  most  interesting  display.  First 
prize  was  won  by  Mr.  Henry  Lewis,  Hayes, 
Beckenham,  Kent,  for  a  superb  dish  of  Sutton's 
Al.  Mr.  H.  J.  Cooke,  The  Leys,  Woburn, 
Beds,  was  second ;  and,  with  Best  of  All,  Mr. 
J.  A.  Spicer,  Heath  House,  Staines,  was 
third. 

Eight  bunches  of  autumn-sown  Onions  in 
Class  33  were  all  good.  Leading  honours  went 
to  Mr.  F.  J.  Gentle,  who  had  large  and  handsome 
bulbs.     A  good  second  was  found  in  Mr.  H.  J. 


second  prize  went  to  Mr.  A.  H.  Boys ;  and 
third  was  secured  by  Mr.  E.  Fuller,  who  showed 
well. 

Class  38,  for  three  tap-rooted  Beet :  First,  Mr. 
A.  Swann  ;  second  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  A. 
H.  Boys  ;  and  third  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  H.  J. 
Cooke. 

Class  40,  for  two  Cucumbers  :  Mr.  H.  J.  Cooke 
was  a  good  first ;  second  prize  went  to  Mr.  J. 
W.  Harrison  ;  and  third  prize  was  secured  by 
Mr.  Marshall  Y.  Green  for  a  nice  brace. 

Class  39,  for  three  Beets,  Turnip-rooted : 
First  prize  was  secured  by  Mr.  H.  J.  Cooke ; 
second  went  to  Mr.  A.  Franklin ;  and  third 
prize  was  well  won  by  Mr.  W.  H.  Morton, 
EUamoote,  Gloucester. 

Class  37,  for  one  bunch  of  stump-rooted 
Carrots :  First  prize  was  deservedly  won  by 
Mr.    A.    H.    Boys  ;    second  prize  went   to   Mr. 


FIRST  PBIZE  AND  OOLD  MEDAL  COLLECTION   OF  TWELVE   KINDS  OF  VEGETABLES. 
Shmvn  by  E.  T.  Tatham,  Esq.,  Kendall  Ball,  Elstree  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Gaiger). 


Cooke  ;  and  Mr.  J.  A.  Newman  was  third  with  a 
good  bunch. 

Of  the  thirteen  exhibitors  in  Class  34,  for  a 
bunch  of  spring-sown  Onions,  Mr.  E.  M.  Morris, 
Uckfield,  was  a  very  excellent  first.  Much 
smaller  were  the  Onions  securing  second  prize 
for  Mr.  Edwin  Burnett,  1,  Sutherland  Villas, 
Enfield.     A  close  third  was  found  in  Mr.  Gentle. 

Eight  entries  for  two  Vegetable  Marrows,  in 
Class  3.7,  were  good.  First  prize  was  awarded  to 
Mr.  F.  Hayter ;  second  prize  went  to  Mr.  E. 
Fuller,  Bishop's  Stortford  ;  and  third  prize  went 
to  Mr.  .J.  Bedford,  Waltham  Cross. 

Class  36,  for  a  bunch  of  Intermediate  Carrots  : 
Mr.  A.  Childs  was  first  with  good  specimens ; 


E.  Fuller ;  and  third  to  Mr.  A.   Childs,  all  of 
whom  showed  well. 


OPEN  CLASSES. 
Sweet  Peas. 
Eighteen  bunches,  distinct :  First,  Mr.  T. 
Stevenson,  Woburn  Place  Gardens,  Addlestone, 
who  staged  the  finest  exhibit  of  Sweet  Peas  in 
the  show,  the  whole  of  which  were  in  excellent 
condition  and  of  exceedingly  high  quality.  The 
varieties  shown  were  Evelyn  Hemus,  Black 
Knight,  Elsie  Herbert,  Spencer  America,  Clara 
Curtis,  Lavender  G.  Herbert,  J.  Ingman,  Prince 
Olaf,  The  King,  The  Marquis,  Mrs.  Henry  Bell 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  A^iriiust  7,  1909. 


Improved,  Nora  Unwin,  Helen  Lewis,  'Audrey 
Crier,  Rosie  Adams,  Countess  Spencer,  St. 
George  and  Mrs.  H.  Sykes  ;  second,  Mr.  A.  E. 
Usher,  gardener  to  Sir  Randolf  Baker,  Bart., 
Blandford,  who  also  showed  an  admirable  set  of 
flowers,  including  Audrey  Crier,  Prince  of 
Asturias,  Asta  Ohn  Spencer,  Doris  Usher  and 
Evelyn  Hemus  in  good  form  ;  third,  Mr.  J.  S. 
Tubb,  The  Gardens,  Oakbank,  Seal,  Sevenoaks  ; 
fourth,  Mr.  R.  Brown,  gardener  to  Lady  Tress 
Barry,  St.  Leonard's  Hill,  Windsor.  Six  entries. 
Twelve  bunches,  distinct :  First,  Mr.  A.  K. 
Usher,  gardener  to  Sir  Randolf  Baker,  Bart., 
who  liad  a  particularly  well-displayed  set  of 
flowers  of  The  King,  Helen  Lewis,  Queen  Victoria 
Spencer,  Holdfast  Belle,  Prince  of  Asturias,  John 
Ingman.'Mrs.  H.  Sykes,  Menie  Christie,  Mrs.  A 


Ketton,  whose  chief  flowers  were  Heucheras, 
Anthemis  tinotoria  Kelwayii,  Alatrtemeriaauran- 
tiaca,  Galega  and  Cimicifuga  racemosa  ;  third, 
Mr.  Charles  Smith,  gardener  to  A.  H. 
Evans,  Esq.,  Harris  Hill,  Newnham,  who  had 
excellent  vases  of  Centaurea  ruthenicus,  Eryn- 
giums,  white  perennial  Pea  and  Larkspur  ; 
and  the  fourth  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  George 
Cheney,  36,  Broadway,  Kettering,  who  staged 
a  capital  lot  of  flowers. 

In  Class  4ti,  for  six  bunches  of  herbaceous 
flowers,  Mrs.  E.  P.  Butcher,  -^5,  Upper  Brook 
Street,  Ipswich,  was  placed  first,  her  best  flowers 
being  Galegas,  Alstrremeria  aurea,  Larkspur  and 
white  perennial  Pea;  second,  .1.  Bland,  Esq., 
Welland  Bank,  Market  Harborough,  whose 
I  Helenium  autumnale  and  Lilium  testacfum  were 


FIRST   PRIZE   EXHIBIT  OF   EIGHTEKN    BtlNCHKS  OF   SWEET    PEAS   (AMATEURS    SECTION). 
(Shown  hit  ^fal■lilta!l  V.  Green,  Eg'/.,  The  Loilge^  Entufonl,  Kent.) 


Ireland,  Audrey  Crier,  Priniro'c  Spencer  and 
Asta  Ohn  Spencer  ;  second,  Mr.  J.  Tomlin, 
Aramigster  Park,  Chertsey,  gardener  to  Mrs. 
(xoldingham,  who  showed  good  bunches,  including 
Helen  Lewis,  Black  Knight  Spencer,  Constance 
Oliver  and  A.  J.  Cook  ;  third,  Miss  Cnlvin, 
Kfetton  Hall  Gardens,  Ketton;  fourth,  H.  T. 
Tatham,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Gaiger),  Kendall 
&all,  Elstree,  Herts.     'Ten  entries. 

Nine  bunches,  distinct :  First,  Mr.  Thomas 
Stevenson,  who  staged  an  excellent  set  of  A.  J. 
Cook,  Mrs.  C.  W.  Breadmore,  Black  Knight 
Spencer,  Mrs.  H.  Bell  Improved,  Frank  Dolby, 
MaTrjorie  Willis,  Etta  Dyke,  John  Ingman  and 
King  Edward  VII.  ;  second,  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher, 
who  also  had  a  nice  clean  lot,  staging  fine  bunches 
of  Helen  Lewis,  Zephyr,  John  Ingman  and  Asta 
Ohn;  third,  E.  Watford,  Esq.,  Netherfield  ; 
fourth,  Mr.  J.  Tubb.     Eleven  entries. 

Six  bunches,  distinct:  First,  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher, 
whose  vases  of  Mrs.  H.  Sykes,  The  Marquis, 
John  Ingman,  Constance  Oliver,  Prince  of 
Asturias  and  Etta  Dyke  were  exceptionally 
clean  and  fresh  ;  second,  E.  Watford,  Esq.,  who 
followed  closely,  including  a  fine  vase  of  Mrs. 
Hardcastle  Sykes  ;  third,  Mr.  J.  Tomlin  ;  fourth, 
F.  Green,  Esq.,  Southampton.    Eighteen  entries. 

Habdy  Flowers. 

For  twelve  bunches  of  hardy  herbaceous 
flowers,  Mr.  J.  T.  Tubb,  The  Gardens,  Oakbank, 
Seal,  Sevenoaks,  was  a  good  first  with  Lilium 
testaoeum,  Gaillardias,  Pentstemons,  Phloxes, 
Lychnis  chalcedonica  and  Larkspurs  ;  second 
prize  went  to  Miss  Colvin,  Ketton  Hall  Gardens, 


very  fine ;  third,  Mr.  F,.  Clements,  Etwall, 
Derby  ;  fourth,  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher,  gardener  to 
Sir  R.  Baker,  Blandford. 

Class  .")4  was  for  twelve  kinds  of  annuals, 
distinct,  first  honours  falling  to  Mr.  J.  Tomlin, 
gardener  to  Mrs.  Goldingham,  Ammigster  Park, 
Chertsey,  who  had  Stocks,  Rocket  Larkspurs, 
Sweet  Peas  and  Lupines  in  good  condition ; 
second,  Mr.  R.  Brown,  gardener  to  Lady  Tress 
Barry,  St.  Leonard's  Hill,  Windsor ;  third, 
G.  Cheney,  Esq.,  Kettering.  iThis  class  was 
well  contested,  and  there  were  many  excellent 
vases  of  flowers  staged. 

Roses 

In  Class  47,  for  eighteen  Roses,  distinct,  to  in- 
clude Teas,  Hybrid  Teas  and  Noisettes,  the  Rev. 
J.  H.  Pemberton.  Havering-atte-Bower,  Essex,  was 
first.  He  displayed  excellent  flowers  of  Earl  of 
Warwick,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Bessie  Brown 
and  Mildred  Grant.  Second,  R.  Foley  Hobbs. 
Esq.,  Thornloe,  Worcester,  whose  blooms  of 
Dean  Hole,  Her  Majesty  and  Mildred  ( irant  were 
all  excellent  ;  third  prize  went  to  Gulliver 
Speight,  Esq.,  The  Square,  Market  Harborough, 
[  who  had  a  very  fine  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  in 
his  lot. 

In  Class  48,  for  nine  Tea  Rosea,  distinct,  the 
first  prize  went  to  F.  Pridham.  Esq.,  Chipstead, 
Surrey,  who  had  good  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting, 
White  Maman  Coohet,  Bridesmaid  and  Inno- 
cente  Pirola  ;  second,  R.  Foley  Hobbs,  Thornloe, 
Worcester,  whose  Comtesse  de  Nadaillac  was 
very  fine  ;  third.  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton, 
Havering-atte-Bower. 


Class  4fl,  for  nine  Hybrid  Tea  Roses :  First, 
Gulliver  Speight,  Esq.,  Market  Harborough, 
whose  J.  B.  Clark  and  Mildred  Grant  were  very 
fine  ;  second,  R.  Foley  Hobbs,  Esq.,  Worcester  ^ 
third,  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton,  whose  bloom  of 
Bessie  Brown  was  excellent. 

In  Class  .50,  for  nine  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  distinct, 
G.  Speight,  Esq.,  was  a  good  hist  with  Her 
Majesty,  Mrs.  Laing  and  Helen  Keller  as  the 
best ;  second.  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton  ;  and  third,. 
R.  Foley  Hobbs,  Esq. ,  Worcester. 
Carnations. 

In  Class  51,  for  twelve  vases  of  border  Carna- 
tions, first  prize  went  to  R.  Morton,  Esq.,  Grange 
Place,  Woodside  Park,  N. ,  whose  fine  lot  included 
Daffodil,  Professor  Cooper,  Liberty,  Highland' 
Lass,  Merlin  and  others ;  second,  Messrs.  Phillips 
and  Taylor,  Bracknell ;  and  third,  Edmund 
Charrington,  Esq.,  Limpsfield,  Surrey. 

In  Class  .52,  for  six  vases  of  border  Carnations, 
three  blooms  of  each,  R.  Morton,  Esq.,  Woodside 
Park,  N. ,  was  first.  His  blooms  of  Daffodil, 
Professor  Cooper,  Merlin  and  R.  A.  Rowberry 
were  all  good.  Second,  Mr.  A.  E.  Usher, 
gardener  to  Sir  R.  Baker,  Bart.,  Blandford. 
Third,  Messrs.  Phillips  and  Taylor. 
Violas. 

In  Class  53,  for  twelve  Violas,  first  prize  was 
awarded   to    Mr.    George    Gaily,     The    Holme, 
Walton-on-Thames ;  second,  W.  Compston,  Esq. ; 
third,  Mr.  E.  Clements,  Etwall,  Derby. 
Table  Decorations. 

In  Class  .55  a  table  decoration  of  Roses  waa 
asked  for.  First  prize  fell  to  Miss  Adelaide  F. 
Harwood,  Iti,  St.  Peter's  Street,  Colchester,  whO' 
had  a  superb  table  of  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  with< 
natural  Rose  sprays  extending  to  the  corner 
vases.  Second,  H.  L.  Sell,  Esq.,  Kempton 
Villa,  Luton.  Third,  Mr.  A.  Swann,  Billericay,. 
Essex,  the  two  latter  exhibitors  ^  employing 
Polyantha  Roaes. 

Class  56  was  for  a  table  decoration  of !  Sweet 
Peas,  and  here  the  first  prize  was  awarded  to. 
Mrs.  W.  Martin,  Addlestone,  Surrey,  who  had 
pink  and  cream  coloured  flowers,  sprays  of 
Prunus  Pissardi  and  trails  of  Lonicera  aureo- 
reticulata  and  Selaginella ;  second,  Mrs.  Lilian 
.Jones,  Marsala  Road,  Lewisham,  S.E.,  with, 
pink  Sweet  Peas  and  Graases  ;  third,  H.  L. 
Sell,  Eaq.,  Kempton  Villa,  Luton. 
Fruits 

In  Class  57  a  collection  of  fruits,  nine  distinct 
kinds,  was  asked  for,  second  prize  being  awarded 
to  Miss  Colvin,  The  Gardens,  Ketton  Hall, 
Stamford. 

In  Class  58,  for  a  collection  of  six  dishes  of 
small  fruits,  first  prize  went  to  Mr.  Thomas- 
Stevenson,  Woburn  Place  Gardens,  Addlestone, 
who  staged  excellent  Currants,  Gooseberries, 
Raspberries  and  Strawberries ;  Mr.  Mark  Webster, 
gardener  to  E.  J.  Preston,  Esq.,  Kelsey  Park, 
Beckenham,  was  placed  second,  and  he  had  many- 
fine  diahea  ;  third  honours  went  to  Mr.  F.  L. 
Pike,  gardener  to  H.  W.  Henderson,  Esq., 
King's  Langley ;  and  fourth  to  Major-General  Sir 
Charles  Hadden,  K.C.B.  (gardener,  Mr.  C 
Tayler). 

Vegetables.  '. 

Class  59  was  for  a  collection  of  twelve  vege- 
tables, distinct:  First  honours  in  this  important 
class  fell  to  H.  T.  Tatham,  Esq.,  Kendall  Hall, 
Elstree  (gardener,  Mr.  William  Gaiger),  whose 
magnificent  lot  contained  Ideal  Cucumber,  Duke 
of  York  Tomato,  Telephone  Pea,  Canadian 
Wonder  Bean,  Scarlet  Perfection  Carrot,  Express 
Potato,  Extra  Early  Autumn  Cauliflower,  with 
Beet,  Marrows  and  Onions.  This  group  also 
obtained  the  gold  medal  offered  for  the  best 
exhibit  in  the  whole  show.  Second,  Mr.  W. 
Waterton,  gardener  to  R.  H.  Comyns,  Esq., 
Heath  Farm  House,  Watford,  who  had  a  beauti- 
ful collection  and  who  won  the  gold  medal  last 
year :  third,  Mr.  R.  Staward,  The  Gardens, 
Panahanger,  Hereford  ;  fourth,  Mr.  C.  J.  Dann 
Spring  Hill,  Maidstone. 

(CoJithmed  vn  page  'i9^.). 


GARDEN. 


-^^=^' 


No.  1969.    Vol.  LXXIII. 


August  U,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


Insect  Friends   and 
Foes    393 

Notes  of  thh  Week 
Forthcoming  events      394 
Best  bedding  Violas      394 

CORBESFONDENOE 

Actinidia  chinensis . .    394 

A  protest 395 

The  Garden  Hower 

.Show       395 

Aphis  on  fruit  trees       395 
The  home  of  the  Straw- 
berry     395 

The    Garden    Flower 

Show 396 

EiTOHEN  Garden 
Two    good    summer 

Carrots 397 

ROSE  Garden 
A  few  notes  on  some 
of     the     newer 

Roses       397 

Flower  Garden 
Sweet  Pea  chat       . .     398 
A     yellow  -  flowered 

Saxifrage 398 

Lilium  myriophyllum    398 
Convolvulus     mauri- 
tanicus    398 


Coloured  Plate 
Some  of   the    newer 
Narcissi 399 

rREES  AND  Shrubs 
Choisya  temata       . .    399 

GARDENIN9  FOR  BEGIKNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 
week..     

Koman  Hyacinths 
and  Paper  White 
Narcissi  in  pots    . . 

Propagating  Carna- 
tions and  Pinks    . . 

A  choice  alpine. .     . . 

The  Scarborough  Lily 
The  Town  Garden    . 


400 


400 

401 
401 
401 
401 

Gardehiho  of  the  Week 
For  the   South   and 

South  Midlands   . .  402 
For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands  . .  402 

N"ew  plants 402 

The  Editor's  Table     . .  403 

ANSWERS       TO      COBRE- 
SFORDEIITS 

Flower  garden  . .  . 

Trees  and  shrubs  . 

Hose  garden      . .  . 

Fruit  garden     . .  . 


403 
403 
403 

404 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Apple  shoot  attacked  by  aphis 395 

Spanish  Irises  in  Dr.  Mc Watt's  garden 396 

The  rare  Lilium  myriophyllum 397 

The  blue  Rock  Bindweed  in  a  Devonshire  garden      . .    398 

Some  of  the  newer  Narcissi Coloured  plate 

A  good  specimen  of  Choisya  temata       399 

Roman  Hyacinths  and  Paper  White  Narcissi     . .    400,  401 


EDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
9-AKDEN,  a/nd  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  qitestions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  ttnsh  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  inake 
the  **  Answers  to  Correspondents"  columms  a  conspicuous 
feature^  and,  when  queries  are  prinied,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kvndly  give  enquirers  the  beTiefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  com/munications  mitst  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accom,panied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  a/nd  notes, 
but  he  will  Tiot  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  a/nd,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  pJwtographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  mu^t  be  distinctly  utiderstood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  toill  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  mALSt  iv>t  he  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  a,ccepted.  Publication  in  The  Garden 
unll  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offlc'H:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C 


INSECT 


FRIENDS 
FOES 


AND 


Of   the    Garden,  and    the   Best   Means    of 
Exterminating    the    Latter. 

(First  Prize  Essay.) 

DURING  the  last  few  years,  much 
k  valuable  knowledge  of  insect-life 
I  injurious  to  garden  crops  has  been 
'  obtained  and  given  through  the 
Press  to  garden-lovers.  A  perusal 
of  the  "  Answers  to  Correspondents  "  columns  of 
The  Garden  reveals  an  eager  desire  on  the  part 
of  readers  to  benefit  by  this  knowledge  in 
fighting  these  pests  ;  but  the  greatest  difficulty 
is  to  know  which  is  the  best  remedy  and  how 
and  when  to  apply  it. 

The  following  insecticides  I  can  confidently 
recommend,  having  proved  them  to  be  safe  and 
efficacious  :  Arsenate  of  lead  paste  (quite  safe  to 
use  on  the  tenderest  foliage  and  not  easily  washed 
off  by  rain),  quassia  extract,  para£Sn  soap 
and  nicotine  emulsion. 

Arsenate  of  lead  and  nicotine  may  be  used 
together,  but  quassia  must  be  used  alone.  A 
spraying-machine  should  be  used  for  applying 
the  insecticides,  and  it  is  important  that  a  light 
but  strong  make,  fitted  with  extension  rods  and 
a  double  nozzle,  should  be  obtained.  The 
Antipest,  Vermorel,  Enots  and  Four  Oaks  are  all 
good  types  of  machines. 

Dealing  with  fruit  trees  first,  we  shall  find 
that  the  larvae  of  the  winter,  mottled  umber  and 
March  moths  are  among  the  worst  pests,  for  they 
quickly  destroy  foliage  and  blossom  of  any  trees 
on  which  they  are  abundant.  Besides  Apple  and 
stone  fruit  trees,  they  also  attack  Gooseberries 
and  Currants.  The  females  cannot  fly,  and 
therefore  crawl  up  the  tree-stems  and  lay  their 
eggs  on  the  branches  during  autumn  and  winter. 
To  check  their  progress  up  trees  with  2  feet  or 
more  of  clear  stem,  grease-banding  should  be 
done,  first  putting  on  a  grease-proof  paper  band 
6  inches  wide  and  securing  both  edges  with 
rafiia  or  string.  Put  the  grease  on  half  an  inch 
thick  and  2  inches  wide,  and  renew  it  whenever 
it  begins  to  dry  until  March. 

Other  serious  caterpillar  pests  are  those  of  the 
Codlin  moth,  which  lays  its  eggs  in  the  calyx  of 
the  young  fruit,  and  the  Apply  sawfly,  whose 
larva?  destroy  the  organs  of  fructification.  In 
some  seasons  the  tent  caterpillars  of  the  ermine 
and  lackey  moths  are  very  numerous  and  do 
much  damage  to  the  foliage.  The  best  remedy 
for  all  caterpillars  is  arsenate  of  lead,  which 
should  be  sprayed  over  the  trees  just  before  and 
immediately  after  the  blooming  period.  The 
Codlin  moth  caterpillar  is  the  most  difficult  to 
kill,  as  the  calyx  soon  closes  up  and  prevents  the 


wash  penetrating  to  the  young  larvte  ;  but  all 
fruit  that  falls  off  and  is  seen  to  be  infected 
should  be  picked  up  and  burned.  Many  larvae 
may  be  caught  by  twisting  old  sacks  round  the 
forks  of  the  trees,  under  which  they  pupate,  and 
then  burning  the  sacks  at  the  end  of  the  year. 

The  Apple-sucker,  or  psylla,  is  a  small  green 
insect  which  does  much  damage  to  the  flowers  by 
sucking  the  sap  from  the  base  of  the  trusses,  and 
causes  the  blossoms  to  fall.  Spray  the  trees  just 
as  the  buds  are  opening  in  spring  with  nicotine 
or  quassia.  It  is  important  to  wait  until  the 
trusses  are  sufficiently  forward  for  the  liquid  to 
run  down  to  the  base. 

Another  insect  destructive  to  the  blossoms  is 
the  larvae  of  the  Apple  blossom  weevil,  as  it  also 
eats  the  organs  of  fructification.  Shaking  the 
branches  over  a  sheet,  as  soon  as  the  weevil 
makes  its  appearance  in  spring,  and  then 
destroying  the  pests,  is  the  best  way  of  dealing 
with  it. 

American  blight  is  easily  recognised  by  its 
woolly  covering,  and  as  soon  as  any  is  noticed 
brush  the  patches  over  with  a  little  methylated 
spirit ;  but  if  many  trees  are  badly  infected  spray 
heavily  with  strong  paraffin  emulsion. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  aphis,  all  of  which 
do  serious  damage  if  left  unchecked  to  all  kinds 
of  fruit  trees.  Spraying  to  be  effectual  must  be 
done  early,  before  any  of  the  leaves  are  curled 
up  by  the  insects.  .Just  before  and  directly 
after  blooming  are  the  best  times  for  the  opera- 
tions, using  quassia  extract  or  nicotine  emulsion. 

Bush  fruit  tree  pests  are  more  easily  dealt  with 
than  those  on  tall  trees.  Of  these  the  larvae  of 
the  Currant  and  Gooseberry  sawfly  and  magpie 
moths  are  the  worst,  those  of  the  former  being 
the  most  destructive,  as  they  are  most  abundant, 
and  they  quickly  defoliate  the  whole  bush  if  left 
unchecked  for  a  few  days.  Where  only  a  few 
trees  are  attacked,  hand-picking  is  best  ;  but 
where  there  are  many  trees  affected,  and  the 
fruit  is  not  wanted  until  it  is  ripe,  spraying  with 
arsenate  of  lead  is  the  quickest  and  surest 
method. 

Red  spider  is  a  very  common  foe  on  many 
plants,  but  the  species  found  on  the  Gooseberry 
is  peculiar  to  that  tree,  and  is  found  in  enormous 
numbers  in  early  spring.  Spray  in  March  and 
again  early  in  May  with  paraffin  emulsion,  with 
Joz.  of  liver  of  sulphur  added  to  a  gallon  of 
wash. 

The  Black  Currant  mite  is  one  of  the  most 
difficult  pests  to  exterminate,  and  nothing  at 
present  is  very  effectual.  Picking  off  infected 
buds  in  March,  and  then  dusting  with  lime,  one 
part,  and  sulphur,  three  parts,  in  April  and  May, 
have  proved  to  be  the  best  check.  Raspberries 
and  Loganberries  are  attacked  by  the  Raspberry 


394 


THE    GARDEN. 


[August  14,  1909 


beetle,  whose  larvje  eat  the  flower- buds  and  spoil 
much  fruit.    Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  in  May. 

Wasps  prove  troublesome  during  some  seasons 
and  may  be  the  cause  of  great  loss  of  fruit :  but 
they  may  be  trapped  by  placing  jars  of  a  mixture 
of  beer  and  sugar  among  the  branches  of  the 
trees  they  frequent.  Scott's  Wasp  Destroyer  is  a 
useful  remedy  also  if  used  according  to  direc 
tions.  Nests  should  be  sought  for  and  destroyed 
by  pouring  tar  in  the  hole  at  night  and  then 
digging  out  next  day.  All  queen  wasps  seen  about 
in  the  spring  should  be  killed  when  possible. 

Vegetable  crops  being  annuals  are  more  easily 
kept  free  from  insect  pests,  as,  if  badly  infected, 
they  may  be  pulled  up  and  burned.  The  Celery 
flv,  whose  larvae  do  great  damage  to  the  foliage 
of  Celery  by  tunnelling  between  the  membranes 
of  the  leaves  ;  the  Onion  fly  and  the  Carrot  fly, 
whose  larvse  eat  the  bulbs  or  roots  of  the  plants, 
are  among  the  worst  enemies.  The  best  remedy 
for  each  is  to  spray  the  plants  with  quassia  eaeli 
week  during  their  early  stages  of  growth.  This 
acts  as  a  deterrent  to  the  fly  laying  its  eggs. 

The  Turnip  flea  beetle  is  always  with  us  and  is 
difficult  to  exterminate ;  but  I  have  found  dusting 
the  seedlings  with  slaked  lime  to  be  the  most 
effectual  remedy. 

Wireworm  is  a  very  destructive  foe,  and  it  needs 
persistent  attention  to  keep  it  in  check.  Nothing 
is  better  than  trapping  them  by  slices  of  Potato  or 
Carrot  and  destroying  them  as  they  are  caught. 

Slugs  may  be  kept  away  from  plants  by  fre- 
quent dustings  of  soot  and  also  lime.  For  seed- 
lings it  is  best  to  water  all  around  them  with 
lime-water.  Aphis  and  caterpillars  on  Roses 
and  other  plants  can  be  destroyed  by  quassia 
and  arsenate  of  lead  emulsions.  Earwigs  are 
easily  trapped  by  putting  an  inverted  flower-pot, 
with  a  little  dry  moss  in  the  bottom,  on  a  stake, 
to  which  the  plant  is  tied,  or  by  tying  pieces  of 
hollow  Bean-stalk  or  canes  among  the  foliage. 
Look  the  traps  over  each  morning. 

Winter  spraying  with  caustic  soda  for  fruit 
trees  has  not  been  recommended,  as  washes  con- 
taining either  that  or  carbolic  have  not  proved 
eSeotual.  They  are  useful  only  in  killing  lichen, 
which  is  often  a  harbour  for  insects  ;  but  even 
for  that  purpose  the  lime  and  salt  wash  is  far 
superior,  for  if  put  on  late  in  March  it  will  kill 
many  insects'  eggs,  including  those  of  the  psylla. 
The  following  are  the  proper  proportions  :  501b. 
of  fresh  slaked  lime  (chalk  lime)  in  20  gallons  of 
water,  to  which  add  71b.  of  salt  dissolved  in 
5  gallons  of  water  ;  spray  on  while  quite  hot. 

Insect  friends  of  the  garden  are  few,  but 
among  them  I  think  the  bees  are  most  important, 
as  many  flowers  are  dependent  on  their  visits  for 
the  fertilisation  of  their  ovules,  and  no  doubt 
many  of  the  "  chance  "  crosses  in  the  vegetable 
kingdom  are  due  to  this  agency.  A  very  useful 
insect,  though  not  esteemed  by  the  housewife,  is 
the  spider,  for  by  the  use  of  its  web  many 
thousands  of  insects  are  caught.  The  ladybird 
is  also  a  little  friend  which  should  always  be 
protected  from  the  destroyer's  hand,  as  it  lives 
chiefly  on  aphides  of  all  descriptions. 

Desjord,  Leicester.  F.  Lansdell. 


NOTES   OF_THE   WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

•,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  the 

respective  Secretaries. 

August  17. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  1 — 6  p.m.  Lecture  at  three  o'clock 
on  "Bees  in  Relation  to  Gardening,"  by  Mr. 
Walter  F.  Reid,  F.LS.,F.C.S. 

August  18. — Shrewsbury  Horticultural 
Society's  Exhibition  (two  days). 

August  19. — Royal  Horticultural  Society  of 
Aberdeen's  Show  (three  days). 


Prizes  at  "The  Gapden"  Flower 
Show, — In  reply  to  several  correspondents  fe 


the  payment  of  prizes,  the  money  will  be  sent  by 
post  as  soon  as  the  books  can  be  made  up. 
The  Essex  County  Gardens.— 

Early  in  August  we  had  the  pleasure  of  visiting 
the  gardens  of  the  Essex  County  Council  at 
Chelmsford,  and  were  greatly  surprised  at  the 
vast  improvements  which  have  been  made  there 
during  the  last  few  years.  Formed  some  twelve 
years  ago  from  an  open  and  rough  field,  the  County 
Council  now  have  an  area  of  some  three  acres 
clothed  with  healthy  fruit  trees,  vegetables  and 
flowers,  the  whole  presenting  a  picture  of 
prosperity  and  beauty.  We  have  rarely  seen 
Pear  trees  cropping  so  well  as  some  of  the  goblet- 
shaped  and  bush  specimens  are  doing  here  this 
year,  and  in  some  instances  there  are  some 
remarkably  good  crops  of  Apples.  Roses  luxu- 
riate, Crimson  Rambler  producing  its  huge 
trusses  of  flowers  in  great  abundance.  Were  a 
pergola  formed  over  the  long,  straight  path  at 
the  entrance  and  clothed  with  a  representative 
collection  of  rambler  Roses,  it  would  form  at 
once  a  most  beautiful  and  instructive  feature. 
All  the  vegetable  crops  looked  remarkably  well, 
and  the  whole  gardens  reflected  great  credit  on 
the  able  head-gardener,  Mr.  W.  Aylett. 

Best  bedding:  Violas.— On  the  invita- 
tion of  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co. ,  a  party  of  some 
twenty-seven  members  of  the  Scottish  Pansy  and 
Viola  Association  visited  their  nurseries  at 
Rothesay  on  Saturday,  July  31,  for  the  purpose 
of  inspecting  a  trial  of  eighty  varieties  of  bedding 
Violas.  The  trial  consisted  of  practically  the 
same  varieties  as  were  tested  last  year  at  Messrs. 
Dobbie  and  Co.'s  seed  grounds  in  Essex,  and  the 
object  was  to  ascertain  whether  the  Scottish 
experts  might  come  to  any  conclusions  difi'erent 
from  the  Southern  enthusiasts.  Instead  of  being 
planted  in  autumn,  as  were  last  year's  trials,  the 
Violas  in  this  instance  were  not,  owing  to 
weather  conditions,  put  into  their  quarters  till 
the  end  of  April.  The  border  selected  for  the 
trial  was  somewhat  heavy  in  character,  and  the 
abnormal  rainfall  during  July  was  rather 
against  some  of  the  varieties  ;  consequently  the 
trial  lines  were  not  so  regular  as  might  have 
been  expected  under  more  favourable  conditions. 
The  results  which  are  given  below  will  show  that, 
on  the  whole,  the  decisions  in  the  English  trials 
are  pretty  well  borne  out  by  the  Scottish  jurors. 
White,  rayless. — First,  Cygnet ;  second,  Mrs. 
H.  Pearce.  White,  slightly  rayed.  —  First, 
Countess  of  Hopetoun  ;  second.  White  Empress. 
White,  rayed.  —  First,  Bethea  ;  second, 
Alexandra.  Cream  shades.  — First,  Iliffe ;  second, 
Sylvia.  Primrose  shades. —  First,  Primrose 
Dame  ;  second,  Maggie  Clunas.  Yellow,  rayless. 
— First,  A.  J.  Rowberry ;  second,  Wm.  Look- 
wood.  Yellow,  slightly  rayed. — First,  Redbraes 
Yellow ;  second,  Kingcup.  Yellow,  rayed. — 
First,  Canary  ;  second,  Grievei.  Blue,  dark. — 
First,  Archie  Grant ;  second,  Edina,  Blue, 
light. — First,  Lady  Marjory;  second,  Ithuriel. 
Lilac  and  lavender.  —  First,  Favourite  and 
Kitty  Bell ;  second,  Florizel.  Mauve. — First, 
Mauve  Queen  ;  second,  Lady  Warwick.  Mauve, 
dark.  —  First,  Jubilee ;  second.  Councillor 
Watters.  Bronze. — First,  Redbraes  Bronze; 
second,  Bronze  Kintore.  Edged  varieties.— First, 
Lady  Grant ;  second.  White  Duchess.  Crimson 
and  rose. — First,  Wm.  Niel ;  second,  Mrs.  J.  H. 
Rowland.  Three  best  whites  in  above  classes. — 
First,  Cygnet ;  second,  Bethea ;  third,  Mrs. 
Pearce.  Three  best  yellows  in  above  classes.  — 
First,  Canary  :  second.  Primrose  Dame ;  third, 
Grievei.  Three  best  mauves  and  lilacs  in  above 
classes.  — First,  Mauve  Queen ;  second ,  Favourite ; 
third,  Kitty  Bell.  Two  best  bedders  in  other 
fancy  types. — First,  Mrs.  Chichester  ;  second, 
Agnes  Kay.  On  the  conclusion  of  the  inspection 
the  party  made  a  round  of  the  nursery  grounds 
and  found  much  to  interest  them  in  the  large 
breadths  of  Roses,  Dahlias,  Pansies,  Violas  and 
Sweet  Peas  grown  by  the  firm.  Messrs.  Dobbie 
and  Co.  afterwards  entertained  the  visitors  in 
the  Hotel  Madeira,  and  the  usual  compliments 
\^ere  exchanged,     fhe  T^eathe^  was  splendid  ^nd 


everyone  enjoyed  the  day's  outing.  Many  had 
come  long  distances,  and  the  company  included 
Major  Milne,  president,  and  Mr.  John  Smellie, 
secretary,  besides  the  leading  specialists  of  the 
E*st  and  West  of  Scotland. 

Distinguished  visitors  at  Cog'gre- 
Shall. — During  the  past  few  days  distinguished 
agriculturists  and  savants  from  France  and 
Belgium  have  visited  Coggeshall  for  the  purpose 
of  inspecting  the  extensive  seed  farms  of  Messrs. 
John  K.  King  and  Sons  at  Coggeshall,  Chappel 
and  Colne.  The  visitors  were  conducted  over 
the  farms  and  experimental  grounds  by  Mr. 
Herbert  King  and  Mr.  J.  H.  Millard,  the  firm's 
general  manager.  They  were  greatly  interested 
and  impressed  with  everything  they  saw,  especi- 
ally the  large  acreages  of  agricultural  and  vege- 
table seeds  and  the  improved  varieties  of 
pedigree  cereals,  while  the  large  cultivation  of 
giant-flowered  Sweet  Peas  and  the  trials  on  their 
experimental  grounds  were  greatly  admired. 
The  visitors  were  entertained  during  their  stay 
at  Orchard  House  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Herbert 
King. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  it  net  rtgptngibU  far  (he  epinUm* 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 


Spanish  Irises  in  a  Scottish 
g^arden. — I  send  you  a  photograph  of  Spanish 
Irises  at  present  (July  27)  in  full  bloom  in  my 
garden.  They  were  planted  four  years  ago, 
3  inches  or  4  inches  apart,  in  good  rich  soil  in  a 
Rose-bed,  and  have  never  been  lifted.  The 
flowers  are  of  great  beauty,  and  embrace  all  the 
shades  of  blue,  purple,  violet,  yellow  and  white. 
As  Spanish  Irises  are  unsurpassed  in  oolour  by 
any  other  hardy  flowers  and  are  cheap,  they 
should  be  bought  in  quantity  and  grown  in  large 
masses.  They  should  be  planted  in  good  rich 
soil  and  mulched  over  with  farmyard  manure 
during  the  winter  months.  To  bring  their  colours 
out  well  plant  them  where  they  will  be  fully 
exposed  to  the  sun.  Once  planted,  do  not  lift 
them  for  many  years — that  is,  until  the  soil  has 
exhausted  itself.  If  lifted  the  bulbs  should  not 
be  kept  long  out  of  the  ground,  as  they  begin  to 
grow  immediately  the  flowers  have  faded.  For 
table  decoration  they  are  most  useful,  and  as 
decorative  plants  in  the  garden,  if  grown  as  I  have 
stated,  they  have  few,  if  any,  equals.  Their  delicate 
and  numerous  colours  and  beautiful  blending 
remind  me  strongly  of  gardens  in  Japan  I  visited 
some  years  ago. — .John  Mo  Watt,  Morelands, 
Duns. 

Actinidia  chinensis.— A  specimen  of 
this  climber  planted  in  a  fruit  house  has  recently 
flowered  in  these  gardens.  The  authorities  at 
Kew  very  courteously  inform  me  that  the  species 
does  not  appear  to  have  produced  flowers  pre- 
viously in  this  country.  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and 
Sons  of  Chelsea,  from  whom  the  plant  was  pur- 
chased, confirm  this.  A.  chinensis  is  already 
valued  for  its  noble  foliage  and  the  remarkable 
appearance  of  the  young  shoots,  which  are  covered 
with  red  hairs.  The  flowers  are  about  \\  inches 
in  diameter,  and  are  borne  in  clusters  of  three  or 
four  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves  on  the  shorter 
growths.  The  petals  are  white,  and  surround  a 
mass  of  golden  stamens,  in  which  the  numerous 
styles  are  practically  hidden.  The  flower-stems 
are  weak  and  short,  and,  consequently,  almost 
covered  by  the  leaves.  It  is,  however,  possible 
that  this  fault  only  occurs  on  young  plants  grow- 
ing freely.  Although  an  attempt  was  made  to 
fertilise  the  flowers,  all  have  dropped,  and  the 
real  purpose  (the  production  of  a  new  and  rare 
fruit)  for  which  this  plant  was  housed  is  for  the 
present  defeated.  All  descriptions  of  this  plant 
I  have  yet  seen  state  that  the  flowers  are  bright 
yellow  ;  but  all  that  opened  on  the  plant  in 
question  were  pure  white,  and  only  changed 
slightly  to  a  dingy  cream  as  the  edges  of  the 
petals  began  to  wither.  The  flowers  on  a  smnll 
spray,  boiypver,  which  was  cut  and  placed  in 


August  14,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


395 


water  in  the  evening,  changed  before  morning  to 
a  pure  buff  yellow,  a  most  charming  colour.     It 
would  be  interesting  to  know  if  the  plants  dis- 
tributed by  Messrs.  J.  Veiteh  and   Sons  were 
seedlings  or  otherwise.     If  from  seed,  it  may  be 
that  both  yellow  and  white  varieties  will  occur. 
As  far  as  the  foliage  and  general  habit  go,  this 
plant  is  exactly  like  those  growing  at  Coombe 
Wood  and  quite  distinct  from  A.  kolomikta  and 
A.  volubilis,  both  of  which  are  grown  here  on  a 
pergola.     In  his  lecture  on  "  Some  Lesser  Baiown 
Japan  Trees  and  Shrubs,"  Mr.  J.    H.   Veiteh 
states  that  Maries  mentioned  it  in  his  letters  to 
The    Garden,    Vol.    XXI.    (1882),    page    101. 
Perhaps  some  reader  having  complete  volumes 
Can  favour  us  with  his  (Maries's)  description  of 
the     flowers. — J.     Combek,    Nymans    Oardens, 
Handcross.     [The  mention  made  by  Maries  in 
Vol.    XXI.    of    The    Garden    is   as    follows : 
"Another  fine   climber  is  Actinidia  kolomikta, 
with  its   long  trailing  branches  covered   with 
silvery  white  leaves,   called  by    the    Japanese 
'  Cats'    Medicine, '    and    I    find    that     oats     in 
England  are  extremely   fond  of    it.     There  is 
another  Actinidia  with  edible  fruit,  which  about 
October  I  found  very  good  in  flavour,  something 
like  a  large  green  Gooseberry. "     From  informa- 
tion   received    from  another    source,   Actinidia 
chinensis  is  evidently  dicecious,  i.e.,   male  and 
female  flowers  are  borne  on  separate  plants,  and, 
apparently,   any  which  have    flowered    in    this 
country    are    males.      Perhaps      when    female 
flowers  are  obtained  they  will  prove  to  be  of  the 
»desired  yellow  colour. — Ed.] 

A  protest. — One  feels  a  certain  misgiving 
in  casting  blame  upon  such  a  splendid  society  as 
the  Royal  Horticultural,  but  surely  it  is  unwise 
for  the  Council  to  fix  such  dates  as  the  day  after 
a  Bank  Holiday  for  their  meetings.  This  not 
only  means  a  great  strain  upon  the  nurserymen 
and  their  employes,  but  the  Fellows  are  not 
gainers.  A  meeting  was  held  on  Tuesday,  the  3rd 
inst. ,  the  day  after  the  great  public  holiday  of  the 
year.  Apparently  no  heed  was  taken  of  the 
trouble  involved  in  bringing  flowers  to  the  hall 
on  such  a  day  as  Monday  in  readiness  for  the 
Tuesday ;  and,  of  all  days  in  the  year,  the  lecturer 
was  Mr.  F.  W.  Moore,  V.M  H.,  the  esteemed 
curator  of  the  Glasnevin  Botanic  Gardens, 
Publin.  This  is  a  muddle,  and  an  uninteresting 
muddle,  too. — V. 

"The  Garden"  Flower  Show.— 
The  huge  success  which  seems  to  have  attended 
the  second  of  The  Garden  Flower  Shows 
indicates  a  possibility  of  its  becoming  in  a  few 
years  one  of  such  great  dimensions  as  to  render 
its  housing  a  matter  of  extreme  dilficulty. 
Shows  of  this  kind  illustrate  two  things — first, 
the  growth  of  horticulture  among  all  classes  of 
the  community,  but  especially  among  the  section 
classed  as  amateur.  In  the  second  place,  it  shows 
that  it  is  but  needful  to  offer  good  prizes  and 
there  will  be  no  lack  of  competitors.  Those  are 
things  which  may  be  taken  for  granted  ;  but 
the  point  which  seems  to  need  some  consideration 
on  the  part  of  the  promoters  is  that,  by  holding 
the  exhibition  each  year  at  the  same  time,  there  is 
grave  danger  of  its  becoming  stereotyped  and 
formal,  and  also  of  appealing  to  or  favouring  just 
one  section  of  The  Garden  readers  and  of  ignoring 
otheis.  Societies  are  largely  bound  to  fix  their 
dates  of  shows  each  year  at  identical  seasons, 
and  if  classes  of  schedules  are  to  be  made  on 
behalf  of  certain  flowers,  such,  for  instance,  as 
Roses,  Sweet  Peas,  Carnations,  Dahlias  or  Chry- 
santhemums, of  necessity  the  dates  of  such 
shows  must  remain  about  the  same  from  year  to 
year.  But  the  promoters  of  The  Garden  Show 
are  bound  by  no  such  conditions.  They  can  fix 
their  own  seasons  and  prepare  a  schedule  of 
classes  suitable  for  the  season  without  regard  to 
any  special  considerations.  Now  I  suggest  that, 
both  to  give  other  sections  of  The  Garden's 
many  reaiders  opportunities  to  exhibit  products 
they  cannot  show  in  July,  and  also  to  vary 
the  monotony  necessarily  incidental  to  shows 
of  which  the  classes  are  practically  the  same 


from  year    to   year,  there  be  yearly  alteration 
in  the  dates  of   the  shows,  one  being  held  as 
hitherto    in     July    and    the    alternate    one    in 
September.     Flowers  are  beautiful,  but  they  are 
not  everything,  although  there  is  an  abundance 
in  the  autumn.     It  is  interesting  to  learn  that 
there  were  2,000  bunches  of  Sweet  Peas  at  the 
recent  show ;  but  a  wide  representation  of  delicious 
fruit  and  of  wholesome,  healthy  vegetables  would 
have  been  more  meritorious,  if,  from  the  floral 
point   of   view,    less    beautiful.      But   the   great 
thing  is  to  give  each  season  and  each  section  of 
horticultural  products,   as  well  as   other   com- 
petitors, chances  not  at  present  available.     How 
deplorable  it  is  to  find  that  while  London  and 
neighbourhood  is  crowded  with  shows  devoted  to 
flowers  in  the  summer,  yet  later  there  is  not  one 
devoted  to  food  products,  fruit  and  vegetables. 
Is  it  too  much   to  ask  the  promoters  of  The 
Garden   Flower   Show  to  seek  to  remedy  this 
grave  defect  ?      This  season,   with  one  of    the 
finest  crops  on  record,  we  have  no  London  fruit 
show,  and  in  no  respect  even  an  exhibition  of 
vegetables  that  can  equal  what  may  be  seen  at 
any  rural  village  flower  show  just  now  in  the 
kingdom.     In  making  these  suggestions  I  have 


■LB  SHOOT  ON  THE  RIGHT  ATTACKED  BY 
APHIS;  ON  THE  LEFT  A  HEALTHY  SHOOT 
IS  SHOWN. 


no  axes  to  grind.  I  simply  wish  to  see  fruits  and 
vegetables  securing  their  due  meed  of  encourage- 
ment.— A.  Dean. 

Aphis  on  fPUlt  trees.— Aphis  has  been 
exceptionally  troublesome  this  season  on  fruit 
trees.  Apples  in  particular  have  suffered,  the 
attack  lasting  much  longer  than  is  the  case  in 
most  years.  Usually  the  trees  grow  away  from 
the  pests  in  time,  but  this  year  the  fly  still  had 
the  best  of  it  as  late  as  the  end  of  July,  this,  no 
doubt,  being  the  result  of  the  cold,  unseasonable 
weather.  Some  varieties  seem  more  prone  to  the 
attack  than  others,  those  with  soft  foliage 
suffering  more  than  harder-leaved  sorts,  although 
the  former  are  often  the  more  vigorous.  On  a 
Sussex  fruit  farm  I  noticed  Beauty  of  Bath, 
Bramley's  Seedling,  Worcester  Pearmain  and 
Lane's  Prince  Albert  as  very  badly  affected, 
while  Cox's  Orange  Pippin,  so  liable  to  fungoid 
diseases,  escaped  comparatively  free.  That  the 
mischief  done  is  of  a  very  serious  nature  there 
can  be  no  doubt  whatever.  Not  only  is  the 
growth  of  the  young  shoots  badly  checked  for  the 
season,  but  even  in  after  years  the  branches  do 
not   lose   the    distorted    shape    induced    by    the 


attack.     In  the  case  of  a  young  tree,  it  may 
sometimes  be  ruined  altogether  by  a  bad  attack. 
On  the  farm  mentioned  it  is  certainly  the  worst 
of    the    ins3ct    pests.      Caterpillars    are    easily 
destf oyed  by  spraying,  but  the  aphis  this  year 
defied  repeated  efforts.     Spraying  was  done  on 
most  up-to-date  lines.     Of  course,  millions  of  the 
pests  were  killed,  but  some  managed  to  get  curled 
up  in  the  leaves,  in  which  position  they  always 
defy  all  measures.     Trial  has  been  made  of  many 
washes,  including  the  most  modern  nicotine  fluid, 
but  nothing  was  found  to  be  more  effective  than 
the  old-fashioned  and  much  cheaper  quassia  and 
soft  soap  wash.     This  was  made  strong  ;  121b.  of 
soap  and  121b.  of  quassia  chips  to  every  100  gallons 
of  water.      In  other  hands,  however,  nicotine 
washes  have  proved  superior  to  anything,  and, 
of  course,  there   are  many  proprietary  washes 
which  kill  aphis  when  they  reach  them.      The 
great  thing  is  to  begin  early,  before  the  insects 
get    curled    up    in    the    leaves,   which   quickly 
happens.     In  gardens  where  there  are  not  many 
trees  it  is  wise  to  pull  off  the  curled  leaves  and 
so  remove  the  pests,  but  this  can  hardly  be  done 
in  a  market  plantation.     In  the  winter  it  will  be 
found  that  most  of  the  aphis-affected  shoots  will 
want  pruning  back  hard.    The  illustration  shows 
an  affected  shoot  from  a  young  Apple  tree  com- 
pared with  a  normal  ene. — E.  M.  B. 


THE      HOME      OF      THE 
STRAWBERRY. 

(A  Visit  to  Laxton's.) 
HE  name  of  Laxton  at  once  reminds 
us  of  Strawberries,  as  the  firm  during 


T 


the  past  twenty  years  has  done  so 
much  to  make  these  fruits  popular. 
Even  if  they  had  only  introduced 
Royal  Sovereign  it  would  have  been 
a  worthy  achievement ;  but  for  some  years  other 
fruits,  and  also  vegetables,  have  been  taken  in 
hand,  and  the  Peas  sent  out  by  this  firm  have 
been  excellent  introductions.  In  Strawberries  a 
distinct  break  has  been  made.  For  some  time 
after  the  introduction  of  Royal  Sovereign  size 
was  a  cardinal  point,  but  now  this  is  only 
secondary,  as  we  have  Strawberries  large  enough 
for  all  purposes  ;  flavour  is  the  first  considera- 
tion at  the  present  time,  and  rightly  so,  as  mere 
size  without  flavour  is  worthless,  and  by  the 
introduction  of  varieties  of  specially  good  flavour 
we  are  much  nearer  the  goal  aimed  at,  viz. ,  to 
get  a  free-growing  Strawberry  with  the  British 
Queen  qualities. 

The  trio  introduced  recently  with  special 
points  as  regards  flavour  are  Pineapple,  Epicure 
and  Connoisseur,  and  these  may  be  termed 
medium  growers.  The  first-named  is  probably 
the  smallest ;  but  it  is  only  fair  to  add  that  I 
have  always  noticed  in  the  trials  of  new  varieties 
at  Messrs.  Laxton's  that  the  fruits  have  not 
been  thinned,  whereas  those  who  grow  for 
exhibition  thin  freely  ;  this  makes  much  differ- 
ence to  the  size  and  finish.  Pineapple  is  noted 
for  its  distinct  and  good  flavour,  and  is  a  very 
rich  fruit,  being  conical  in  shape  and  bright 
scarlet  in  colour.  When  judging  the  other  day 
in  a  large  class,  and  one  that  should  find  more 
favour  at  exhibitions  (a  class  for  three  dishes  for 
flavour).  Pineapple  and  Epicure,  with  British 
Queen,  were  the  winners,  and  the  two  first- 
named  were  noticed  for  their  fine  finish.  There 
was  an  absence  of  green  fruits,  and,  considering 
the  wet  season,  the  flavour  was  excellent. 
Epicure  is  the  result  of  crossing  British  Queen 
and  Fillbasket ;  the  last-named  is  noted  for  its 
heavy  cropping,  and  with  a  good  bit  of  Queen 
flavour  an  excellent  Strawberry  with  a  vigorous 
constitution  is  the  result.  Connoisseur  differs 
from  the  above,  both  in  colour  and  growth,  the 
parents  in  this  case  being  Scarlet  Queen,  an  old 
but  delicious  fruit,  but  none  too  prolific,  and  the 
well-known  Fillbasket,  and  the  last-named  has 
given  its  progeny  good  cropping  qualities,  while 


396 


THE    GARDEN. 


(August  14,  1909. 


the  Queen  gives  the  rich,  luscious  flavour  so  much 
liked.  It  is  earlier  than  the  others  and  a  good 
forcing  plant  where  flavour  is  the  chief  point ; 
it  grows  well  in  heat. 

Of  other  new  forms,  Utility  and  Rival  are 
worth  a  note.  Utility  is  the  result  of  crossing  a 
seedling  with  Waterloo,  and  it  gives  a  crop  of 
the  best  fruits  of  a  paler  colour  than  Waterloo 
and  is  a  more  robust  grower.  Rival  is  the  result 
of  crossing  Givon's  Late  with  Royal  So\  ereign. 

A  new  Plum  raised  by  Messrs.  Laxton  promises 
well,  this  being  named  Prosperity.  It  is  the 
result  of  a  cross  between  Grand  Duke  and  The 
Czar  Plum,  and  it  may  be  termed  an  early 
Victoria,  but  a  rounder,  black  fruit.  Utility  is 
an  early  red  Plum,  and  is  the  result  of  crossing 
Jefi'erson  with  the  Peach  Plum.  It  has  the 
flavour  of  Denniston's  Superb,  and  is  an  excel- 
lent early  dessert  variety.  A  new  Peach 
obtained  by  crossing  the  Early  Rivers'  Nectarine 
with  Hale's  Early  Peach  has  splendid  colour  and 
sets  freely  ;  it  is  named  Laxton's  Advance.  In 
the  Orchid  house  were  to  be  seen  many  other 
most  interesting  crosses,  but  lack  of  space  does 
not  allow  of  these  being  detailed. 

In  the  open  quarters  a  new  berry  called  the 
Laxton  Berry  is  a  great  favourite  ;  this  is  sweeter 
than    the    Loganberry.      A  new   Red  Currant, 


THE 


GARDEN" 
SHOW. 


FLOWER 


Lessons  it  Should  Teach. 

IN  every  horticultural  exhibition,  be  it  great 
or  small,  if  there  were  no  lessons  to  be 
learned  it  would  fail  unmistakably  in  one 
direction  at  least,  viz.,  that  the  basis  of 
all  such  exhibitions  should  be  of  an  educa- 
tional character.  In  the  forefront  of  not 
a  few  of  the  schedules  emanating  from  rural  dis- 
tricts we  find  words  to  the  effect  that  the  one 
object  of  the  society  is  to  promote  the  better 
cultivation  of  plants,  fruits  and  flowers,  in 
certain  other  instances  to  disseminate  informa- 
tion by  means  of  lectures,  and  in  other  ways  to 
do  what  is  possible  to  foster  a  greater  love  for 
the  useful  and  beautiful  of  the  vegetable  kind. 
Thus  it  is  that  an  exhibition  possesses  a  great 
educational  value  of  its  own  ;  becomes,  as  it 
were,  a  very  school-house  of  learning — a  sort  of 
continuation  class,  or  that  higher  education  in 
matters  horticultural — where  everything  being 
concentrated  in  one  or  more  buildings,  tents  or 
marquees,  men  rub  shoulders  with  men  of  higher 
intellects  than  .themselves,  and  where  greater 
brainpower  or  sounder  judgment  is  brought  to 


SPANISH    IBISES    IN    DR.    MCWATl'S   GARDEN    AT    MORELANDS,    DDNS.       (See  page  J.94.) 


Laxton's  Perfection,  is  a  very  fine  berry  and  a 
vigorous  grower.  There  are  some  new  crosses  of 
the  Loganberry  and  various  kinds  of  Raspberries, 
Dewberries  and  other  forms  of  Rubus.  Some 
thirty  acres  of  land  are  devoted  to  Strawberries, 
and  over  60,000  plants  of  Royal  Sovereign  alone  are 
rooted  for  forcing  purposes  ;  there  are  also  some 
good  breadths  of  the  new  Perpetual  Strawberry. 

The  land  devoted  to  young  fruit  trees,  some  forty 
acres,  is  covered  with  splendid  material.  In  the 
strong  red  Bedford  loam  the  trees  make  a  firm 
growth  and  a  mass  of  fibrous  roots.  There  are 
some  wonderful  young  standards  of  Newton 
Wonder,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  and  other  well- 
known  Apples  ;  also  some  acres  of  bush  trees  on 
the  Paradise  stock.  Gooseberries  in  the  shape  of 
double  and  treble  cordons  are  in  great  demand 
here  ;  the  best-flavoured  Gooseberries,  such  as 
Langley  Gage,  Pitmaston,  Early  Sulphur  and 
Langley  Beauty,  were  to  be  seen.  Large 
breadths  of  Raspberries  are  grown,  the  most 
popular  being  Hornet,  Superlative  and  Abund- 
ance, while  the  less-known  but  equally  useful 
Semper  Fidelis,  a  late  red  berry,  is  much  grown 
for  preserving  or  tarts.  Carter's  Prolific  is  a 
heavy  cropper,  and  the  new  yellow  Superlative 
promises  well.  G.  Wythes. 


bear  upon  the  work  in  hand,  and  which  in  no 
other  walk  of  life,  perhaps,  or  no  other  phase  of 
workmanship  displays  itself  to  such  advantage 
as  in  an  exhibition  such  as  that  we  are  at  the 
moment  considering, 

The  productions  of  two  gardens  may  be  alike 
meritorious,  and  when  raised  from  the  soil  or 
selected  prior  to  starting  for  the  place  of  exhibi- 
tion there  may  not  be  the  difference  of  the 
proverbial  pin  between  them  ;  but  all  this  may  be 
changed  before  the  exhibition  ground  has  been 
reached.  A  little  undue  haste  at  the  end,  a 
little  carelessness  or  thoughtlessness  in  packing, 
whereby  friction  of  two  or  more  items  is  possible 
during  transit,  may  mean  all  the  difference 
between  first  and  second  prizes  or  even  the  first 
and  nothing  at  all.  The  good  gardener  will  see 
this  at  a  glance,  while  the  exhibitor  who  in 
true  sportsmanlike  character  is  capable  of  making 
much  out  of  his  losses — can,  indeed,  turn  the 
failures  of  to-day  into  the  successes  of  to-morrow — 
is  he  whose  quick  discernment  and  ready  applica- 
tion will  sooner  or  later  place  him  with  the  best 
gardeners  of  his  time.  In  just  the  same  way  the 
produce  of  two  or  more  exhibitors  may  be  for  all 
practical  purposes  equal  even  when  staged  ;  and 
in  such  a  case,  when  but  a  point  or  even  half 


a  point  may  make  an  enormous  amount  of 
difference  either  in  prize-money  or  honour,  the 
finishing  touches  to  an  arrangement,  no  matter 
of  what  kind — table  decoration,  bouquet,  or  the 
staging  of  vegetables  or  flowers  —  carry  no 
inconsiderable  weight  with  the  judges,  who,  of 
necessity,  regard  each  keenly  contested  group 
from  its  every  point  of  view.  Hence  the 
spectacular  effect  of  the  whole  group  is  a  point 
decidedly  in  its  favour,  and  all  else  being  equal, 
would  undoubtedly  gain  the  leading  prize.  The 
displaying  of  vegetables  or  flowers  or  fruits  in 
the  exhibition  arena  need  not  be  a  lesser  work  of 
art  than  the  displaying  of  such  things  upon 
canvas,  and  the  gardener  in  hia  way  can  be — 
indeed  is,  in  the  highest  walks  of  his  profession — 
as  much  of  an  artist  as  he  who  depicts  fruits  or 
flowers  in  oils  or  water-colour  drawings.  In 
each  case  the  operator  knows  the  value  of  careful 
planning  and  still  more  careful  work,  and  with 
these  in  hand,  the  finest  results  are  the  outcome 
of  infinite  pains  in  the  execution  of  the  work. 

To  what  high  excellence  it  is  possible  to  attain 
in  the  exhibition  hall  was  abundantly  evidenced 
in  The  Garden  Show  recently  held  in  'Vincent 
Square,  more  particularly  with  the  collection  of 
vegetables,  which,  in  addition  to  the  premier 
honour  in  its  set,  received  also  the  gold  medal 
for  the  greater  honour  of  being  the  finest  exhibit 
in  the  show.  The  exhibit  in  question  was  a 
superb  one ;  the  infinite  pains  that  the  artist  had 
taken  with  his  picture  unmistakable.  In 
similar  degree,  each  displaying  a  profound 
knowledge  and  skill  of  the  work  in  hand,  were 
the  premier  exhibits  of  table  decorations  and 
Sweet  Peas,  the  former  characterised  by  good 
taste  and  sound  judgment ;  the  latter,  evidencing 
all  this,  demonstrated  cultural  skill  of  a  very  high 
order.  In  the  case  of  those  classes  devoted  to 
annuals,  some  very  excellent  exhibits  were 
staged,  the  leading  collections  running  a  close 
race.  To  some  extent  the  same  was  true  of  the 
hardy  herbaceous  plants,  though  not  in  all,  and 
there  were  obvious  instances  where  greater  pains 
in  setting  up  or  displaying  the  exhibits  might 
have  produced  a  far  better  result.  I  do  not  say 
that  as  a  whole  the  exhibits  of  these  flowers 
were  not  eminently  satisfactory,  or  that  they 
were  not  the  equal  of  a  large  number  of  such 
things  as  frequently  seen  at  such  exhibitions ; 
but  is  there  any  need  to  rest  content  on  equality 
alone  ?  No,  surely  not ;  or,  if  so,  there  is  no 
promoting  of  that  better  cultivation  of  fruits  and 
flowers  which  should  ever  rank  as  one  of  the 
chief  functions  of  every  such  exhibition  as  that 
inaugurated  but  a  year  ago  by  the  Proprietors  of 
The  Garden. 

The  defects  in  the  herbaceous  section  were 
primarily  due  to  a  little  roughness  and  an 
absence  of  freshness  in  the  exhibits  ;  but  in  view 
of  the  very  unfavourable  weather  conditions 
immediately  preceding  the  date  of  the  show,  I 
refrain  from  a  more  extended  criticism  on  this 
head.  In  one  or  two  instances,  however,  exhibits 
were  set  up  with  the  dead  blossoms  of  two  or 
three  past  days  still  upon  them  ;  and  though  I 
say  at  once  that  such  exhibits  were  quite  a  rarity, 
their  very  existence  but  demonstrates  that  some 
exhibitors  have  not  yet  successfully  passed  an 
elementary  training  in  such  matters. 

It  was  in  the  direction  of  packing  that  the 
more  conspicuous  errors  were  made,  errors, 
fundamental  and  complete,  that  at  once  placed 
the  competitor  outside  any  passible  hope  of 
success.  The  placing  of  cut  flowers  in  boxes 
much  too  large  for  their  needs,  unfixed  and  with- 
out the  least  sign  of  packing  paper,  thus  subjecting 
these  treasures  to  the  tender  mercies  of  unseeing 
and,  possibly,  uncaring  postal  or  railway  officials, 
was  a  grave  mistake,  and  not  less  grave  the  tightly 
twisting  up  of  beautiful  Roses  in  tissue  paper  at 
a  time  when  the  petals  were  saturated  with  rain. 
In  some  of  these  latter  the  labour  and  care  taken 
to  ensure  success  were  abundant,  almost  exces- 
sive, and  had  the  petals  been  quite  dry  when  so 
packed  the  blooms  would  have  emerged  in 
splendid  condition  from  their  packages. 


August  14,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN 


397 


The  most  grievous  error  of  all,  however,  was 
the  packing  of  choice  flowers  in  all  too  frail  boxes 
of  cardboard,  and  some  of  these,  when  received, 
were  not  greatly  unlike  the  collapsible  opera-hat 
that  may  De  sat  on  with  impunity.  Cardboard 
boxes,  therefore,  should  never  be  used,  but  firm 
wooden  boxes  substituted  in  their  stead.  Rose 
blooms  and  Sweet  Peas  should  never  be  packed 
tightly  in  paper  when  reeking  with  moisture ;  and 
flowers  generally  should  not  be  allowed  such  liberty 
of  action  so  that  by  friction  the  blooms  are  well- 
nigh  unrecognisable  when  unpacked.  On  the  other 
hand,  some  Iruits,  vegetables  and  flowers  sent  long 
distances  were  excellently  packed  and  reflected 
the  greatest  credit 
on  the  senders. 
These,  then,  are  the 
lessons  —  good  and 
bad— of  the  success- 
ful exhibition  just 
closed,  and  if  they 
are  taken  to  heart 
and  rightly  used  for 
future  guidance 
these  notes  will  not 
have  been  written 
in  vain. 

E.  H.  Jbkkins. 


THE   ROSE   GARDEN. 


A  FEW  NOTES  ON  SOME  OF  THE 
NEWEK  ROSES. 
YON  ROSE. — I  think  every  rosarian  will 
admit  that  this  is  a  wonderful 
example  of  the  work  our  great  raisers 
are  doing  every  day.  In  colour  it  is 
a  blending  of  salmon,  pink  and 
yellow,  producing  a  delightful  effect. 

It  is  a  strong  grower  and    the   blooms   are   of 

good  shape. 


KITCHEN 
GARDEN. 


TWO     GOOD 
SUMMER 
CARROTS. 
Carter's     Long 

Forcing      and 

Improved  Early 

Horn. 
The  early  Carrot 
occupies  such  an  im- 
portant place  at  this 
season  of  the  year 
that  a  root  which 
is  sweet  and  a  rapid 
grower  is  of  great 
Value.  At  The 
Gabden  Show  on 
the  28th  ult.  some 
splendid  roots  were 
staged  in  collections 
or  otherwise,  and  for 
those  who  likesmall, 
sweet  roots  of  these 
vegetables  the  Im- 
proved Eirly  Horn 
is  an  excellent 
variety,  as  it  takes 
up  a  very  small 
space  and  is  just  the 
size  one  requires.  I 
myself  fail  to  see 
the  value  of  huge 
Carrots,  especially 
at  this  season,  as 
often  there  is  much 
core,  which  many 
persons  dislike ;  the 
quicker  vegetables 
are  grown  the  better 
as    regards   flavour. 

The  Early  Horn  is  a  great  favourite  with 
amateurs  on  account  of  its  perfect  shape 
and  smoothness.  The  first-named,  the  Long 
Forcing,  has  the  same  excellent  qualities,  but  a 
tapering  root,  and  is  of  a  deeper  colour — a  very 
distinct  and  early  variety.  I  do  not  know  of 
any  variety  that  matures  more  rapidly,  and  it  is 
an  ideal  frame  Carrot  on  account  of  its  small  top 
growth.  If  young  Carrots  are  required  for  a 
long  season,  by  making  three  or  four  sowings 
during  the  year,  say,  February,  April,  June 
and  August,  the  above  will  be  found  excellent 
for  the  purpose,  G-  Wvtbes. 


THE   RARE  LILIUM   MTRIOPHYLLUM. 


(Natural  size.    See  page  SOS.) 


Orace  Molyneux  always  comes  good,  and  if 
its  growths  are  thinned  and  its  buds  reduced 
it  may  be  had  large  enough  for  exhibition.  The 
colour  is  cream,  with  rose-shaded  centre  and 
sometimes  a  suffusion  of  apricot ;  sweetly 
scented. 

Mme.  Segond  Weber. — A  large,  high-centred 
bloom  of  a  real  salmon  pink  shade,  quite  different 
to  the  usual  pink  Roses. 

Duchess  of  Wellington  is  one  of  the  best  of 
Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson's  1909  set.  Saffron 
yellow,  centre  bronzy  crimson ;  large  petals, 
free-flowering.    A  decorative  Rose  of  great  value. 


So  also  is  another  of  their  decorative  varieties, 
viz., 

Theresa.  It  is  a  delightful  mixture  of  orange, 
apricot,  iorn  and  pink  in  its  different  stages. 

Nita  Weldon  is  a  large  white  Tea  with  faint 
pink-edged  petals.  A  fine  addition  to  the  larger- 
flowering  Tea  section. 

Dorothy  Page-Roberts  is  a  Rose  of  wonderful 
charm.  In  colour  it  is  coppery  pink  and 
apricot ;  as  the  flower  expands  each  petal  turns 
under  to  a  point ;  very  useful  for  decoration. 
The  colour  is  deeper  in  autumn. 

Eenee   Wilmart- Urban. — A    fioe   variety;    one 
of  Pernet-Ducher's  successes.    White,  with  salmon 
and  blush  centre  ;  a 
solid  bloom. 

Marquise  de 
Sinety. — A  gem,  in 
colour  yellow,  with 
hronzyredsuffusion; 
large,  cupped  and 
fairly  full. 

Jacques  Vincent. — 
Coral  red  with  a 
yellow  tinge;  a 
pretty  decorative 
variety. 

Mme.  Maurice  de 
Lttze.  —  This  is  a 
good  vigorous 
grower,  with  fine 
broad  petals  ;  a  real 
rose  pink,  full,  open- 
ing well,  a  huge 
bloom :  as  a  maiden 
superb.  Good  for 
exhibition  and 
garden. 

Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert.  —  Fine  in 
every  sense  of  the 
word.  Globular, 
opening  well,  out- 
side petals  deep 
creamy  salmon, 
centre  salmon  and 
red,  beautifully 
blended. 

G.  O.  Waud.—A 
shade  of  colour  very 
distinct,  orange  ver- 
milion in  its  prime. 
There  is  a  glow 
radiating  from  the 
centre  of  the  bloom 
which  greatly  en- 
hances the  general 
effect. 

John  Cujf  is  also 
another  acquisition ; 
large  petal?,  a  deep 
carmine-pink  with 
yellow  base. 

Mrs.  David  Jar- 
dine.  — Good  shape, 
salmon  pink  in 
colour,  especially 
good  under  glass ; 
very  free  flowering. 
Mrs.  Isabella 
Milner  is  after  the 
style  of  Mildred 
Grant,  but  circular ; 
white,  with  petals 
daintily  edged  with  very  faint  pink,  nearly 
mauve  ;  charming  effect ;  a  huge,  solid  bloom. 

Mme.  Jules  Oravereaux. — Although  sent  out  in 
1901 ,  it  has  only  of  recent  years  become  generally 
known.  A  deep  buff-yellow  with  faint  pink 
shading,  high  centre  and  full  petals  turning  over 
prettily. 

In  Walter  Speed  and  Margaret  Molyneux  we 
have  two  more  gems  which  will  be  generally  grown 
in  a  few  years.     Both  have  been  well  exhibited. 

Hugh  Dickson  is  a  huge  crimson-scarlet,  intense 
colouring,  superb  in  every  way  ;  high  centred 
and  very  good.  E.  E.  F. 


398 


THE     GARDEN. 


[AiTSUST  14,  1909. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


rely  upon,  but  I  wonder  whether  anyone  else 
had  the  same  thought  as  I  had  when  I  closely 
examined  that  row.  Could  it  really  be  the 
George  Stark  that  I  had  worshipped  a  while 
ago?  I  dare  not  say  no  even  to  myself,  but  it 
seemed  to  me  to  smack  wonderfully  of  Queen 
Alexandra,  especially  in  some  of  the  blooms. 
However,  we  shall  see  next  year  if  all  is  well. 
The  King  is  a  fine  flower,  but  it  will  have  to  bow 
down  before  Sunproof  Crimson,  since  the  former 
burns  (someone  will  want  to  know  where  the  sun 
has  been  to  burn  it),  while  the  latter  does  not ; 
King  Edward  Spencer  may  follow  The  King. 
Mrs.  Andrew  Ireland,  the  second  of  Dobbie's 
novelties  of  last  year,  is  far  and  away  better  than 
even  the  most  sanguine,  who  know  the  firm 
of   Dobbie    and  the   man   Ireland,    could    have 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

NEW    VARIETIES.— Now    that    the 
principal  exhibitions  have  come  and 
gone,    and    hundreds     of     friendly 
bouts  have  been  fought,   lost  and 
won,  the  thoughts  of  the  enthusiast 
will  turn  towards  the  new  varieties 
which  he  hopes  to  include  in  his  collection  next 
year.       He  will  have  had   many  novelties   this 
year,  and  few  of  them  will  have  come  perfectly 
true  ;  but  little  mixtures,  such  as  some  of  us  had 
the  pleasure,  or  pain,  according  to  circumstances, 
of  seeing  at  Reading,  will  not  reduce  his  ardour  ; 
on  the  contrary,  he  will  grow  the 
novelties   next    year    with    even 
more  care  than  ever  before,  and 
the  true  ones  he  will  bless,  while 
the  untrue  ones   he  will,  let  us 
hope,  regard  with  a  philosophical 
calm    as    among    the    inevitable 
things  of  the  cult. 

The  great,  the  burning  question 
then  is  the  novelty.  Is  there 
anything  of  such  super-excellence 
that  it  will  eclipse  all  those  that, 
have  gone  before  ?  Has  the 
Coreopsis  grandiflora  yellow  or 
the  Salvia  patens  blue  yet  been 
discovered  ?  The  answer  is  a 
decided  "  No  "  in  each  instance. 
Far  be  it  from  me  to  deprecate  the 
Dew  varieties  that  are  coming  out 
with  more  or  less  glowing  descrip- 
tions ;  but  I  cannot  disguise  from 
myself  the  fact  that  they  are  a 
mediocre  lot,  practically  all  of 
which  resemble  with  a  fearful 
closeness  those  that  have  come  in 
previous  seasons.  This  must  not 
ciuse  disappointment.  During 
the  last  decade  enormous  strides 
in  evolution  have  been  made,  and 
it  would  be  quite  unreasonable 
to  expect  that  the  same  rapid 
advance  could  be  maintained  year 
after  year.  We  have  not  yet 
reached  within  measurable  dis- 
tance of  the  zenith  either  of 
popularity  or  of  variety,  but 
nowadays  it  takes  a  good  one  to 
stand  head  and  shoulders  above 
its  fellows,  and,  consequently, 
we  must  be  content  with  the 
good  things  that  the  raisers  give 
us,  though  they  may  be  few  in 
numbers  and  show  little  real 
advance  upon  their  predecessors. 
Hope  springs  eternal  in  the 
human  breast — at  least,  so  some- 
one has  said  ;  it  does  in  mine, 
and  the  hope  is  that  I  shall  get 
the  Coreopsis  grandiflora  yellow 
and  the  Salvia  patens  blue,  for 
I  could  then  pass  the  approaching 
evening  of  my  life  in  affluence 
and  the  glorious  knowledge  that 
I  had  scored  over  all  my  fellows 
in  the  Sweet  Pea  world.    Perhaps 

there  are  others  whose  hopes  run  parellel  with  expected.  I  am  prepared  to  assert  that  it  is 
mine!  There  is  something  in  the  nature  of  poetry  one  of  the  finest  Sweet  Peas  that  we  have  had 
in  the  last  sentence  or  two  ;  but  the  Editor  is  in  our  gardens  since  Sweet  Peas  first  were.  I 
prosaic  and  will  demand  that  we  turn  at  once  to  have  seen  it  in  the  North  and  the  South,  the  East 
practical  things  and  not  occupy  valuable  space  in  [  and  the  West,  as  well  as  at  home  at  Mark's  Tey, 
fancies.  It  is  obvious  that  it  will  be  impossible  and  the  more  I  see  of  it  the  more  I  become  con- 
to  conclude  my  notes  on  the  new  varieties  in  one  vinced  that  it  is  easily  the  variety  of  the  year, 
issue,  and  I  propose,  in  the  first  place,  to  glance  For  exhibition  it  will  be  indispensable,  while  for 
at  the  behaviour  of  some  of  the  crack  sorts  that   the  garden  it  is  unequalled.  Spencer. 

were  shown,  and  in  several  instances  distributed  

iTrieroUhe  N:tn"arsVerCs\:i^7in"m^^  |  A  YELLOW-FLOWERED  SAXIFRAGE. 
This  was  not  distributed  as  far  as  I  am  aware,  (S.  JUNiPEErFOLiA. ) 

but  it  was  represented  in  the  trials  at  Reading.  I  Saxifrages  with  yellow  flowers  are  more  numer- 
Memory   is  notoriously  a  treacherous  thing  to  I  ous  than  they  were  a  few  years  ago,  but  they 


are  as  yet  too  little  cultivated  by  the  many  who 
possess  a  rockery.  The  defect  possessed  by  this 
Rockfoil  is  that  of  shy-flowering  in  many  locali- 
ties, and  one  has  seen  good  plants  which  have 
not  flowered  for  years.  This  failing  need  not  be 
fatal  to  its  cultivation,  as  the  plants  themselves 
form  beautiful  little  mounds  of  foliage,  quite 
appreciated  on  any  good  rockery.  Still,  flowersare 
welcome  as  well,  and  the  plant  requires  to  be 
covered  with  glass  if  it  is  to  give  its  little  spikes  of 
small  yellow  flowers  with  any  degree  of  freedom. 
Some  put  a  bell-glass,  a  sheet  of  glass,  or  a  hand- 
light  over  the  plants  for  the  winter  months  alone ; 
but  still  better  results  are  achieved  if  this  Saxi- 
frage is  kept  with  the  glass  above  it  in  summer 
as  well.  It  will,  however,  require  plenty  of 
air,  and  if  a  bell-glass  or  a  hand  -  light  is 
employed,  either  must  be  well 
tilted,  so  as  to  allow  of  the 
free  admission  of  air.  Then  the 
plant  should  have  a  fair  amount 
of  moisture  at  the  roots,  so  that 
a  large  hand-light  is  not  desirable, 
lest  it  throw  the  rain-water  away. 
Dumfries.  S.  Arnott. 


LILIUM  MYRIOPHYLLUM. 
This  rare  and  beautiful  Lily  was 
well  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  by  Messrs. 
James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited, 
on  July  20,  the  several  plants 
comprising  the  little  group  con- 
stituting a  centre  of  attraction. 
The  plant  reaches  above  2J  feet 
or  3  feet  in  height,  the  short, 
narrow,  lance-shaped  leaves  being 
very  numerous  and  closely  ar- 
ranged on  the  sturdy  stems. 
The  species  comes  from  Western 
China,  and  I  believe  a  small 
consignment  of  bulbs  was  brought 
home  by  Mr.  E.  H.  Wilson.  The 
species  belongs,  or  is  closely 
related,  to  the  L.  Brownii 
section  of  Lilies,  the  external 
colouring  being  of  a  deeper 
hue  of  chocolate  than  in  the 
better-known  type.  Internally 
the  colouring  more  nearly  re- 
sembles that  of  L.  Brownii  chlo- 
raster,  but  the  yellow  is  more 
decidedly  pronounced  and  of  a 
deeper  shade.  The  fine  trumpet- 
shaped  blossoms  are  of  great 
substance,  reflexing  at  the  tips  of 
the  segments,  where  the  deeper 
external  colouring  is  reflected  ; 
in  sunlight  it  forms  a  very  strik- 
ing contrast.  This  Lily  is 
extremely  rare  at  the  present 
time  ;  nor  can  its  beauty  and 
charm  be  well  overrated.  Like 
all  the  Brownii  set,  it  may  be 
grown  in  sandy  loam,  or  in  this 
and  peat  in  mixture.  E.  J. 


THE   BLUE  ROCK   BINDWEED   (CONVOLVULUS   MAURITANICUS)   IN   A   DEVON- 
SHIRE GARDEN. 


CONVOLVULUS  MAURI- 
TANICUS. 
The  blue  Rock  Bindweed,  as 
this  Convolvulus  has  been  called, 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  graceful  of 
all  the  members  of  its  family.  Entirely  free 
from  the  rampant,  land-grabbing  tendencies 
of  so  many  of  its  race,  C.  mauritanicus  is 
remarkable  for  its  persistent  flowering  and 
neat,  elegant  habit.  Although  a  native  of 
Northern  Africa  it  proves  hardy  in  this  country, 
and  is  one  of  the  best  plants  for  grouping  that 
can  be  imagined.  A  dry,  almost  perpendicular 
bank  entirely  covered  with  this  Convolvulus,  each 
plant  forming  a  dense  veil  and  throwing  up  innu- 
merable graceful,  drooping  hoots,  studded  along 
their  entire  length  by  soft  lavender  blue  flowers 
about  the  size  of  a  florin,  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  sights  it  i8)j)0ssible  to  conoeire.     On  a 


August  U, 1909  ] 


THE     GAEDEN. 


399 


ledge  of  the  rook  garden  where  its  blossom -laden. 
,  pendent  growths  can  hang  freely  down  it  is  seen 
at  its  best. 

Distinct  as  it  is  from  any  other  species  in  cul- 
tivation, it  may  be  used  with  fine  effect  in  almost 
any  situation  in  the  garden.  In  the  warm,  sunny 
crevices  of  the  rockery,  in  a  border  with  a 
southern  exposure,  or  in  the  summer  flower-beds 
this  charming  plant  will  be  found  equally  at 
home.  It  is  also  very  useful  as  a  vase  plant,  its 
drooping  growths  soon  covering  its  receptacle.  It 
is  never  seen  to  better  advantage  than  when 
creeping  over  some  formal  stone  edging,  which  it 
converts  from  an  eyesore  to  a  thing  of  beauty. 

A  fine  example  such  as  that  shown  in  the 
illustration  on  page  398,  which  is  4  feet  in 
length  and  3feet  across,  bears  myriads  of  blossoms. 
Happily,  too,  it  is  not  a  flower  of  a  week.  It 
commences  its  display  early  in  July,  in  August  is 
a  sheet  of  lavender  blue,  and  continues  to  flower 
with  decreasing  freedom  through  the  entire 
autumn.  I  have  already  mentioned  that  the  plant 
is  hardy,  but  in  cold  districts  it  may  be  killed  in 
an  exceptionally  severe  winter.  For  this  reason 
it  is  always  advisable  to  insert  a  batch  of  cuttings 
in  sand  and  cover  them  with  a  bell-glass  in  the 
autumn,  as  these  strike  freely  and,  planted  in  the 
spring,  make  good  plants,  growing  and  blooming 
through  the  late  summer  and  autumn. 

South  Devon.  W.  Fitzherbbbt. 


COLOURED     PLATE, 

PLATB    1380. 


SOME    OF    THE    NEWEK    NARCISSI. 

IN  the  coloured  plate  presented  with  this 
issue  twelve  of  the  newer  Narcissi  are 
shown,  all  of  which  have  been  seen  on 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons'  stands  during  the 
past  season.  It  was  a  happy  thought 
to  arrange  the  group  in  this  way,  for 
although  it  does  not  seem  to  be  quite  a  reliable 
guide  so  far  as  the  size  of  the  individual  blooms 
are  concerned,  it  gives  an  excellent  idea  of  the 
diversity  of  form  that  we  have  in  the  modern 
Daffodil. 

The  most  famous  flower  of  the  twelve  is  Peter 
Barr.  Unfortunately,  the  colouring  of  this 
particular  variety  has  gone  wrong.  In  the 
working  of  the  plate  it  was  found  impossible  to 
get  it  true  to  colour,  and  so  we  have  presented 
to  us  a  flower  in  which  the  trumpet  is  paler  than 
the  perianth — a  colour-scheme  whichlbelieve  only 
exists  at  present  in  one  of  the  rare  triandrus,  viz. , 
t.  pulchellus.  It  is  an  ill  wind  that  blows  nobody 
any  good,  and  possibly  this  mistake  may  set 
hybridists  thinking  when  they  see  pictured  the 
pleasing  effect  of  a  perianth  of  a  deeper  colour 
than  the  trumpet.  To  return,  however,  to  Peter 
Barr,  which  in  real  life  has  a  large  white 
oampanulate  perianth  and  an  ivory  white 
trumpet,  we  may  take  it  as  an  up-to-date 
example  of  the  development  that  recent  years 
have  seen  in  this  beautiful  section.  When  this 
variety  appeared  in  1902  it  was  listed  at  £50  a 
bulb — a  huge  price,  one  thinks,  but  not  too  high 
to  prevent  (I  think  I  am  right  in  saying)  at  least 
two  bulbs  leaving  the  Surbiton  nurseries,  where 
this  beautiful  seedling  was  raised  and  where  it 
was  duly  named  after  the  well-known  founder  of 
the  firm. 

The  Rev.  R.  D.  Williamson  and  Lord  Roberts 
mark  advances  in  the  yellow  trumpets.  They, 
too,  are  Surbiton  children.  The  latter  variety  is 
a  flower  of  very  large  size,  and  has,  what  is  so 
essential  for  garden  purposes,  an  excellent  con- 
stitution and  a  tall,  vigorous  habit. 

In  Czarina  we  have  a  new  giant  Leedsii, 
one  of  the  very  best  and  one  of  the  most  expen- 
sive (£30  each).  The  bloom  in  well-grown 
specimens  measures  5  inches  across.  This  race, 
or  which  White  Queen  is  the  best-known 
example,  will  become  very  popular  when  they 
can  be  bought  at  a  few  shillings  a  dozen. 


Challenger,  Warley  Scarlet  and  Masterpiece  are 
three  handsome  flowers  which  very  much  resemble 
Poets.  There  is  a  little  uncertainty  into  what 
section  they  should  go,  but  this  need  not  prevent 
us  admiring  their  brilliant  colouring.  Masterpiece 
is  an  ideal  show  bloom,  with  a  flat,  white,  over- 
lapping perianth  and  a  large,  shallow,  all-red  cup. 

Somewhat  similar  in  appearance  is  Fire  Queen. 
This  is  classed  as  a  Barri,  and  is  a  singularly 
bright  flower  with  a  white  perianth  and  lar^e 
orange  cup  margined  with  fiery  red.  I  wonder 
sometimes  what  will  be  the  future  of  these 
brilliant  flowers.  Alas  !  some  of  them  very  quickly 
burn  in  the  sun,  and  if  they  are  to  be  seen  in  per- 
fection must  be  gathered  almost  before  they  open, 
or  else  they  must  be  shaded.  They  are,  how- 
ever, always  much  appreciated  as  cut  flowers 
and  command  a  good  price  in  the  market. 
Possibly  this  is  their  destiny. 

In  Lady  of  Shalott  and  the  hybrid  triandrus 
No.  9  we  have  examples  of  exquisite  and  delicate 
flowers,    which    are    easily    raised    from     seed 


TREES    AND   SHRUBS. 


CHOISYA  TERNATA. 

THIS  fine  flowering  shrub,  sometimes 
known  as  the  Mexican  Orange  Flower, 
was  introduced  into  this  country  in 
1825.  At  first  it  was  grown  in 
the  stove,  later  on  transferred  to 
the  greenhouse,  then  to  the  cold 
house,  and  eventually  some  daring  spirit  deter- 
mined to  give  it  a  trial  in  the  open  air.  This 
drastic  treatment  met  with  such  unexpected 
success  that  it  soon  became  one  of  the  most 
popular  shrubs  for  the  garden  and  has  proved 
practically  hardy,  having  endured  a  tempera- 
ture -t°  below  zero — which  killed  all  the 
Veronicas  and  many  Escallonias — without  a  leaf 
being  injured.  Even  the  common  Laurel  has 
been  badly  seared  when  the  Choisyas  have  been 
unhurt,  so  that  w  e  may  reckon  that  it  is  able  to 


A   GOOD   SPECIMEN   OF  CHOISYA  TERNATA. 


(Minnie  Hume  x  triandrus  albus).  The  pure 
white  forms  are  of  the  highest  type  of  beauty 
and  refinement.  They  are  the  Snowdrops  of  the 
Daffodil  world.  They  have  lately  attracted  the 
attention  of  Mr.  Walter  T.  Ware,  who  has 
offered  a  challenge  cup  for  triandrus  seedlings  to 
the  Midland  Daffodil  Society.  Everyone  knows 
the  elegant  King  and  Queen  of  Spain,  and  will 
welcome  additions  to  the  Johnstonis.  Bennett- 
Poe  and  a  tew  others  are  already  in  commerce, 
but  there  is  a  better  time  coming  when  Earl 
Grey,  Count  Visconti,  Cyprian,  Prospero  and 
others  are  buyable. 

The  last  of  the  little  collection  to  be  mentioned 
is  Snow  King.  It  is  a  giant  Poet  with  smooth, 
solid  petals  and  a  fine  eye.  We  will  always 
especially  associate  Mr.  Engleheart  with  the 
improvement  of  the  pure  Poeticus ;  but  this  need 
not  prevent  us  welcoming  later  workers  and 
their  work.  The  splendid  Lindsay  Gordon  was 
raised  by  Mr.  Charles  Dawson,  and  Snow  King 
by  Mr.  E.  M.  Crosfield.  The  latter  is  a  grand 
acquisition.  It  makes  a  tall,  fine  plant  and  carries 
a  bloom  somewhat  between  a  Cassandra  and  an 
ernatus.  Joseph  Jacob. 


withstand  any  frosts  we  are  likely  to  have  in  this 
country  with  impunity. 

It  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  beautiful  plants 
introduced  into  this  country  during  the  present 
century.  It  grows,  blooms  and  can  be  propagated 
quite  as  freely  as  the  well-known  Escallonia 
macrantha,  while,  where  these  two  are  planted  in 
close  proximity,  the  pure  white,  exquisitely 
scented  flowers  of  the  Choisya  form  a  lovely  con- 
trast to  the  dark  green,  glossy  foliage  and  pink 
blooms  of  the  Escallonia.  In  the  South-west, 
where  the  Choisya  is  largely  grown,  it  invariably 
blooms  twice  in  the  year,  namely,  at  its  normal 
period  in  the  spring  and  again  in  the  autumn, 
often  being  white  with  flower  in  October  and 
November. 

It  is  not  at  all  particular  as  to  soil  or  situation, 
and  may  sometimes  be  seen  in  good  health, 
though  making  but  little  growth,  in  soil  that  is 
merely  stony  rubble  ;  but  a  sheltered,  sunny 
corner  in  deep  loamy  soil  suits  it  best.  There 
are  many  splendid  plants  in  Devon  and  Corn- 
wall, but  probably  the  finest  is  at  Carclew,  this 
specimen  being  15  feet  in  height  and  30  yards  in 
circumference.  W.  Fitzherbert. 


400 


THE     GARDEN. 


(August  14,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— After  the  recent 
heavy  rains  the  grass  will  require 
almost  as  raucli  attention  as  regards 
mowing  as  it  did  early  in  the  summer- 
time. Many  amateurs  who  use 
mowing-machines  push  them  over  the 
lawn  in  the  same  direction  every  time  the  grass 
is  cut,  with  the  result  that,  where  the  ground  is 


I. — FOUR     BULBS     OF     THE     ROMAN     HYACINTH 
PLACED    IN    POSITION    IN    A    5-INCH    VOT. 

naturally  of  a  heavy,  clayey  texture,  the  surface 
becomes  waved.  This  condition  of  a  lawn  maj' 
be  corrected  to  a  great  extent  by  pushing  the 
machine  over  it  in  quite  an  opposite  direction. 
Furthermore,  it  is  advisable  to  mow  very  wet 
lawns  at  midday,  while  the  grass  is  dry,  as  the 
work  is  more  easily  done  then,  and  without 
leaving  smeared  marks  on  the  grass.  Longer 
grass  growing  under  trees  and  in  odd  corners, 
which  must  be  cut  with  the  scythe,  is  best  dealt 
with  early  in  the  morning  while  it  is  wet  with 
dew,  or  immediately  alter  a  shower  of  rain.  The 
mowing-machine  cuts  the  grass  best  while  it  is 
dry,  aifd  the  scythe  when  it  is  wet.  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  and  Marguerites  should  be  pro- 
pagated now.  The  former  may  be  inserted  in 
pots  and  boxes,  and  the  latter  in  boxes  alone. 
The  Pelargonium  cuttings  must  average  5  inches 
in  length  and  the  Marguerites  4  inches.  Cuttings 
of  medium  strength,  and  as  well  matured  as 
possible,  are  the  best  in  the  ease  of  Pelargoniums, 
and  young  shoots  of  Marguerites  without  flower- 
buds  must  be  selected.  A  sandy  compost  made 
moderately  firm  and  not  containing  much  organic 
manure  is  the  best. 

Vegetable  Garden.  —  Cucumbers  in  frames  will 
now  require  very  careful  treatment.  As  much 
beat  as  possible  must  be  husbanded  in  the  frame, 
else  the  Cucumbers  will  be  slow  in  growth  and 
bitter  to  the  taste.  Ventilate  early  in  the  morn- 
ing and  close  down  the  lights  early  in  the  after- 
noon ;  all  necessary  syringing  must  be  directed 
to  the  under-sides  of  the  leaves,  as  at  this  season 
red  spider  generally  proves  troublesome.  The 
removal  of  very  weakly  shoots  and  old  seared 
leaves  will  greatly  assist  in  maintaining  the 
health  of  the  plants.  As  Celery  is  a  moisture- 
loving  plant,  there  ought  to  be  some  grand  row  s 
of  it  in  our  gardens  this  year.  Liquid  manure 
should  always  be  given  freely  before  any  soil  is 
drawn  up  to  the  plants  for  blanching  purposes. 
Where  the  plants  are  rather  stunted,  but  on 
examination  are  found  to  possess  plenty  of  roots, 
some  concentrated  manure  dissolved  and  applied 
while  the  soil  is  moist  will  have  a  beneficial 
effect  on  the  crop.  Earthing  up  in  such  a  case 
should  be  delayed  a  little  so  as  to  get  more  growth 
of  stalk  first,  as  the  earthing  is  only  done  to 
blanch  the  stalks.  New  Zealand  Spinach  is 
generally  found  to  be  a  very  useful   vegetable 


during  the  months  of  August  and  September. 
Give  applications  of  weak  manure- water  t«ice 
every  week. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  bud  mite  on  Black 
Currant  bushes  still  gives  a  lot  of  trouble  and 
causes  much  anxiety.  At  this  season  nearly  all 
the  buds  affected  will  be  brown  in  colour,  and 
the  mites  will  have  left  them  for  other  buds, 
having  exhausted  the  sap  in  those  which  they  first 
attacked.  The  best  policy  is  to  at  once  uproot 
all  very  badly  affected  trees  and  burn  them, 
afterwards  digging  in  a  peck  of  quicklime  where 
each  bush  formerly  grew.  Directly  all  the  fruit 
is  gathered  from  the  Raspberry  canes,  out  out  the 
old  ones,  and  all  very  weakly  new  ones,  too  ;  in 
fact,  it  is  wise  to  remove  all  the  new  canes  of 
weaker  growth  at  once,  so  as  to  leave  the 
best  about  6  inches  or  7  inches  apart.  Those 
retained  then  get  more  air  and  sunshine,  and  so 
mature  better  than  they  possibly  could  if  left 
unthinned  until  late  in  the  autumn,  when  all  the 
Itaves  had  fallen  off.  Wall  fruit  trees  get 
covered  with  dust  during  the  period  that  the 
fruit  is  ripening,  and  when  it  is  gathered  a 
thorough  syringing  must  be  given  to  cleanse  the 
leaves  from  all  dirt  and  adhesive  sediment.  One 
syringing  is  not  sufficient;  several  must  be  given 
at  short  intervals. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Roses  in  greenhouses 
now  possess  very  matured  wood,  and  as  much  air 
as  possible,  consistent  with  the  well-being  of 
other  occupants  of  the  structure,  must  be  given. 
I  refer,  of  course,  to  border  Roses.  The  trees 
should  be  syringed  early  in  the  morning  of  a  fine 
day,  and  then  all  moisture  will  be  dried  up 
by  the  evening.  This  is  also  a  very  good 
time  to  get  any  necessary  painting  done  inside 
the  house,  as  stages  may  be  cleared,  painted,  the 
house  well  ventilated  and  the  plants  returned  to 
the  stages  in  a  very  short  time.  Place  cuttings 
of  bedding  plants  in  cool  frames.  B. 


ROMAN  HYACINTHS  AND  PAPER  WHITE 
NARCISSI  IN  POTS. 

Long  before  the  summer  display  in  the  outdoor 
garden  has  come  to  an  end  our  thoughts  should 
be  turned  to  providing  flowers  for  Christmas  and 
the  New  Y^ear.  The  Roman  Hyacinths  and  the 
Paper  White  Narcissi  are  both  exceedingly  useful 
for  this  purpose,  and  both  can  be  grown  with 
comparative  ease.  If  a  series  of  batches  of  bulbs 
are  potted  up,  they  will  provide  suceessional 
supplies  that  can  be  spread  over  several  weeks 
in  the  dullest  and  most  depressing  period  of  the 
whole  year.  Neither  subject  is  expensive, 
although  the  Roman  Hyacinths  are  the  dearer  of 
the  two  and  good  bulbs  less  easy  to  obtain  than 
they  were  some  years  ago. 

Instead  of  the  pots  illustrated,  boxes  are  used 
where  supplies  of  cut  flowers  are  to  be  main- 
tained, as  these  enable  the  grower  to  economise 
space  and  at  the  same  time  provide  a  plentiful 
supply  of  blossoms  ;  but  for  house  or  greenhouse 
decoration  pots  are  the  most  useful.  Our  first 
consideration,  therefore,  is  a  sufficient  supply  of 
pots  for  our  purpose.  These  may  be  either 
5  inches  or  (i  inches  in  diameter,  and  should  be 
washed  quite  clean.  New  pots  should  be  soaked 
in  a  vessel  of  clean  water  for  a  time,  so  that  they 
may  absorb  moisture,  which  in  their  dry,  porous 
condition  they  will  do  very  readily.  Pots 
5  inches  in  diameter  will  answer  for  the  Roman 
Hyacinths,  but  those  G  inches  across  are  better 
for  the  Narcissi. 

An  excellent  soil  mixture  may  be  made  by 
using  the  following  ingredients  :  Thr«  e  parts 
good  fibrous  loam  and  one  part  each  of  leaf -mould 


and  well-decayed  manure,  such  as  is  acquired 
from  a  spent  hot-bed.  To  the  foregoing  add  a 
sixth  part  of  coarse  silver  aand  or  clean  road  grit, 
and  after  chopping  up  the  loam  roughly,  mix  the 
whole  heap  and  place  under  cover  in  a  cool  shed, 
where  the  soil  may  be  maintained  in  a  cool, 
slightly  moistened  condition  and  ready  for  use 
when  required.  Those  who  grow  bulbs  for  exhi- 
bition purposes  strive  to  obtain  old,  thoroughly 
decayed  cow-manure  for  mixing  with  their  soil, 
preferring  this  to  any  other  manurial  ingredient. 
If  the  soil  is  rather  heavy  in  texture  I  should 
use  about  a  peck  of  sand  or  road  grit  to  each 
bushel  of  other  material. 

Crock  the  pots  carefully,  so  that  good  and 
ample  drainage  is  provided,  and  cover  the  crocks 
with  pieces  of  the  rougher  soil,  so  as  to  prevent 
the  finer  particles  working  down  into  the  crocks 
and  thereby  clogging  the  drainage.  Fill  in  the 
prepared  compost  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the 
rim  of  the  pots,  make  this  somewhat  firm,  and 
all  will  then  be  ready  for  the  actual  potting  of 
the  bulbs. 

Bulb  catalogues  are  now  being  distributed  by 
the  specialists,  and  no  time  should  be  lost  in  pro- 
curing the  necessary  bulbs.  It  is  a  great  mistake 
to  delay  the  purchasing  of  the  bulbs ;  they  should 
be  acquired  as  soon  as  possible  and  be  planted 
without  delay.  Avoid  extra  cheap  bulbs,  as  they 
are  mostly  of  inferior  quality.  Select,  it  it  is 
possible,  bulbs  of  medium  size  that  are  nice  and 
firm  in  character.  Weighty  bulbs  are  the  better 
ones,  as  a  rule,  and  if  large  bulbs  are  consistent 
in  this  respect  I  should  not  hesitate  to  plant 
them. 

Place  three  or  four  bulbs  of  the  Roman 
Hyacinth  in  a  5-inch  pot.  Fig.  1  shows  how  the 
bulbs  should  be  adjusted  in  position.  Some 
growers  first  fill  the  pots  with  the  prepared 
compost,  then  take  out  soil  therefrom  and 
place  each  bulb  in  position.  I  prefer  to  arrange 
the  bulbs  equidistant  in  the  pot  and  place  each 
bulb  on  a  thin  layer  of  sand.     The  compost  is 


2.— THE  SAME  BDLB8  AS  SHOWN  IN  FIG.  I  AFTER 
THE   POTTING   HAS   BEEN   COMPLETED. 

then  placed  round  them  carefully  and  made 
slightly  firm.  A  few  raps  on  the  potting-bench 
will  still  further  cause  the  soil  to  settle,  and  with 
another  thin  layer  of  compost  this  portion  of  the 
work  will  be  completed.  When  finished,  the 
crowns  should  be  just  out  of  the  soil  and  also 
just  below  the  rim  of  the  pot,  as  represented  in 
Fig.  2.  Water  in  with  the  aid  of  a  rosed  can 
and  let  the  pots  drain  for  an  hour  or  two,  after 
which  they  should  be  stood  on  a  thick  layer  of 
ashes. 

The  Paper  White  Narcissi  will  need  rather 
different  treatment.  Three  normal-sized  bulbs 
can  be  accommodated  in  a  6-inch  pot,  as  repre- 
sented in  Fig.  3.     Observe  the  same  rule  when 


AusuST  14,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


401 


adjusting  the  bulbs  in  position  as  recommended 
for  the  Roman  Hyacinths,  so  that  when  filled  in 
with  soil  and  completed  they  should  be  adjusted 
in  position  as  seen  in  Fig.  4.  After  watering  in 
and  allowing  the  pots  an  hour  or  two  to  drain, 
they,  too,  should  be  stood  on  a  bed  of  sifted  ashes 
and  covered  6  inches  or  8  inches  with  either 
Coooanut  fibre  refuse  or  sifted  ashes.  I  prefer 
the   former,  as  it  is  cleaner  and  less  likely  to 


3. — THREE  LARGE  EULBS  OF  THE  PAPER  WHITE 
NARCISSUS  PLACED  IN  POSITION  IN  A 
6-IKCH  POT. 

damage  the  growths  when  they  push  their  way 
through  the  soil.  When  the  growth  is  about  an 
inch  in  length,  the  pots  should  be  removed  from 
the  plunging  material  as  required  and  be  placed 
in  a  cold  frame,  for  the  growths  to  be  gradually 
blanched.  Subsequently  they  should  be  placed 
in  the  glass  house,  and  when  the  flower  trusses 
appear  the  temperature  should  be  maiutaiiied  in 
a  genial  condition.  Never  let  the  roots  suffer 
for  the  want  of  water.  D.  B.  C. 


PROPAGATING  CARNATIONS  AND 
PINKS. 
Carnations  are  usually  layered  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  and  Pinks  are  propagated  by  putting  in 
cuttings  in  a  cool  border.  If  Carnations  are 
layered  early  the  shoots  thus  treated  will  make 
very  fine  plants  before  the  frofty  weather  comes, 
and  it  is  important  to  secure  such,  as  roots  do 
not  form  freely  late  in  the  autumn. 

How  to  Layer. — Each  year  a  number  of  side 
shoots  grow  from  the  parent  plants  ;  they  are 
quite  free  from  flower-stems,  and  if  left  on  the 
old  plant  they  would  bear  flowers  another  year. 
These  are  the  right  shoots  to  layer  at  the  present 
time,  as  they  will  make  very  nice  flowering 
plants  next  year.  A  gritty  compost  encourages 
the  formation  of  new  roots,  both  on  layers  and 
cuttings.  The  best  compost  to  use  is  the 
following  :  Fibrous  loam  two  parts,  leaf-soil  one 
part,  sand  or  road  grit  one  part.  Manure  must 
not  be  used.  The  compost  ought  to  be  passed 
through  a  1-inch  mesh  sieve.  Carefully  clear 
away  any  bad  leaves  from  the  base  of  the  plants 
and  then  place  about  a  peck  of  the  new 
compost  under  the  side  shoots  which  are  to  be 
layered.  Strip  off  a  few  of  the  lowest  leaves  and 
then  cut  the  stem  slantwise  halfway  through, 
the  out  being  about  1  inch  long.  Having  done 
this,  drive  in  a  peg,  made  about  6  inches  long, 
immediately  over  the  cut  poriion  of  the  stem  so 
as  to  keep  the  lip  open  and  ihe  layer  firm  in  the 
new  soil.  Treat  each  one  in  this  way  and  main- 
tain the  compost  in  a  moist  condition  ;  then  roots 
will  soon  form.  The  soil  when  used  must  be  in 
a  medium  state  of  moisture,  so  that  it  can  be 
made  very  firm  around  the  stem  of  the  layer. 
On  no  account  leave  the  soil  loose,  else 
disappointment  will  follow.  Oa  the  winter 
treatment  of  the  rooted  layers  information  will 
be  given  in  due  course. 

Propagating  Pinks.  — The  young  shoots  taken  ofl' 
are  called  cuttings  and  also  pipings.  The  best 
grow  near  the  outside  part  of  the  old  plant.  Those 


about  5  inches  long  must  be  selected,  and  after 
the  lower  part  of  the  stem  has  been  denuded  of 
leaves,  or  grass  as  they  are  sometimes  termed, 
for  nearly  2  inches  up,  it  must  be  cut  off  just 
below  a  joint  with  a  sharp  knife.  Sometimes  it 
is  wise  to  make  a  cut  up  the  stem  as  deep  as  the 
width  of  the  knife  blade,  and  this  is  advisable 
where  the  soil  is  rather  clayey.  Insert  the 
prepared  cuttings  in  a  border  with  a  north  or 
west  aspect,  make  the  soil  firm  and  give  water 
when  necessary,  as  Pinks  fail  to  root  if  the 
cuttings  are  allowed  to  get  dry.  Place  sand 
around  the  base  of  each  cutting  when 
planting.  Shamrcick. 


A  CHOICE  ALPINE. 
(Saxifraga  valdensis.  ) 
Of  all  the  Saxifrages  of  the  Kalischia  section 
there  is,  perhaps,  no  more  attractive  or  prettier 
variety  than  valdensis,  with  its  dense  rosettes 
of  tiny,  undivided  leaves  that  are  covered  with  a 
white  encrustation.  A  good  patch  or  pan  of  this 
is  a  thing  to  be  proud  of,  especially  when  covered 
with  the  dainty  racemes  of  large  white  flowers 
in  June  or  July.  The  whole  plant  does  not 
exceed  .3  inches  in  height,  while  it  prefers  a  fairly 
high  elevation,  though  it  may  be  successfully 
grown  on  the  level ;  but  the  former  is  preferable, 
as  these  tiny  alpines  are  much  more  easily 
examined  and  their  minute  beauties  appreciated 
when  close  to  the  eye.  A  well-drained  and 
very  lightly  shaded  spot  is  the  best.  When 
grown  in  the  open  rock  garden  or  in  pans,  a 
compost  of  rich  yellow  fibrous  loam,  with 
plenty  of  chips  and  powdered  limestone,  should 
be  used,  but  no  sand,  as  is  usual  with 
members  of  the  Saxifrage  family.  If  estab- 
lished patches  are  seen  to  be  dying  off  from  the 
centre  they  must  be  at  once  lifted,  carefully 
divided  and  replanted,  or  the  whole  clump  will 
be  lost.  J.  W.  Canning  Wright. 


THE  SCARBOROUGH  LILY. 
This  is  a  good  time  to  lay  in  a  fresh  stock  of 
bulbs,  which  should  be  potted  in  fibrous  loam, 
leaf-soil  and  sand.  In  potting  keep  the  bulbs 
3  inches  or  4  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  and  place  a  handful  of  sand  immediately 
round  the  bulb,  which  requires  to  be  potted 
very  firmly,  so  that  it  is  best  to  allow  them  to 
remain  in  the  same  pot  for  several  years. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

The  flowering  plants  are  now  looking  their  best, 
and  the  climbing  and  fine-foliaged  subjects  have 
covered  much  space  and  assumed  richness  of  leaf 
respectively.  Owners  of  gardens  ought  to  closely 
examine  the  various  kinds  of  plants  they  possess, 
so  that  they  may  be  able  to  improve  upon  any 
that  are  found  to  be  defective.  For  instance,  if 
certain  plants  in  shaded  borders  are  almost  a 
failure  this  year,  owing  probably  to  their  unsuit- 
ability  for  the  position,  a  note  should  be  made  to 
that  effect  so  as  to  avoid  making  a  similar  error 
next  year.  Again,  perhaps  some  of  the  climbing 
plants  have  failed  to  give  satisfaction.  Probably 
one  specimen  has  made  too  much  growth  for  the 
space  on  which  the  shoots  are  trained.  Well,  if 
it  is  found  advisable  to  put  in  another  plant  in 
a  similar  position  this  autumn,  care  will  be  taken 
to  select  a  less  robust-growing  kind.  Thus  there 
will  be  no  guesswork  in  the  matter,  but  the 
cultivator  will  know  exactly  from  experience 
what  to  do. 

Pansies  and  Violas. — Seedlings  of  these  must 
now  be  transplanted  in  prepared  borders.  Every 
seedling  with  a  straggling  habit  must  be  rejected, 
as  such  plants  retain  the  straggling  form  and  bear 
very  small  flowers.  Those  that  are  stocky  and 
do  not  produce  runners  are  the  best,  and  these 
must  be  carefully  lifted  so  as  to  retain  all  the 
roots  intact.  Even  a  very  small  seedling  possesses 


man}'  roots,  and  any  violent  pulling  would  result 
in  the  breaking  off  of  the  majority.  It  is  always 
a  more  difficult  matter  to  keep  Pansy  and  Viola 
plants  through  the  winter  months  in  a  town  than 
in  the  country.  Open  quarters  are  the  best,  as 
any  sheltered  position  draws  up  the  seedlings 
and  weakens  them  before  the  bad  weather  comes  ; 
then  they  are  less  able  to  withstand  it.  In  clayey 
soils  the  nursery  bed  for  the  young  plants  ought 
to  be  slightly  raised  and  an  extra  quantity  of 
sand  or  gritty  soil  must  be  mixed  with  it.  Where 
a  movable  frame  is  available  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
make  measurements,  and  to  so  put  out  the  young 
seedlings  that  they  can  be  eventually  covered 
with  the  frame  and  so  protected  from  severe 
frosts. 

Cuttings.  —  Cuttings  of  both  Pansies  and 
Violas  miist  be  inserted  in  a  cool  border  facing 
north,  north-east  or  north-west.  Tne  soil  must 
be  broken  up  thoroughly  and  some  gritty  soil 
mixed  with  it  if  it  is  of  a  heavy,  retentive 
niture  Cuttings  taken  from  the  base  of  the 
parent  plant  are  the  best.  The  lower  leaves 
must  be  removed  and  then  the  cultivator  should 
sever  the  stem  just  below  a  joint  with  a  sharp 
knife.  Insert  the  cuttings  in  rows  (3  inches  apart 
and  4  inches  asunder  in  the  rows.  Water  at 
once  through  a  fine-rosed  watering-can,  and 
afterwards  when  necessary  so  as  to  prevent 
the  soil  getting  dry  and  the  leaves  from 
shrivelling.  Very  often  a  syringing  at  seven 
o'clock  in  the  evening  will  do  more  good  than  a 
watering  through  a  water-can. 

Runner  Beans. — These  are  often  grown  in 
town  gardens  principally  for  their  quick  growth, 
handsome  leaves  and  scarlet  flowers.  Where  the 
plants  are  growing  near  fences  and  walls,  care 
must  be  taken  to  prevent  the  dropping  of  the 
blossoms.  Want  of  water  at  the  roots  is  the 
chief  cause  of  the  wholesale  dropping  off  of  the 
flowers.  All  pods  formed  must  be  gathered  and 
used  while  they  are  young  ;  then  they  will  be 
tender  and  their  removal  will  result  in  the  free 
production  of  more  growth  and  flowers. 

PR0PA(iATiNG  Bedding  Plants. — Only  those 
kinds  should  be  propagated  that  can  be  kept 
through  the  winter  months.  It  is  useless  to 
mutilate  the  flower-beds  now  by  the  removal  of 
shoots  suitable  for  cuttings  when  the  latter  can- 
not be  kept  safely  through  the  winter.  Zonal 
Pelargoniums,  however,  can  be  wintered  in  a  oool 
conservatory  or  greenhouse,  and  so  it  is  advisable 
to  strike  the  cuttings  early  in  boxes  and  pots  and 
to  keep  them  hardy  by  placing  them  in  sunny 
positions  outside  until  the  end  of  September. 
When  water  is  required  a  good  soaking  must  be 


4. — the    same    bulbs  as   shown   in  fig.    3 

AFTER  potting  HAS   BEEN  COMPLETED. 

given,  but  constant  surface  sprinklings  would  do 
harm,  as  if  exposed  to  excessive  moisture  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  will  damp  off.  Calceolarias  and 
Marguerites  are  easily  kept  through  the  winter, 
but  it  is  not  yet  time  to  take  cuttings.  In  the 
meantime  it  will  be  advisable  to  prepare  pots, 
boxes,  compost  and  labels,  so  that  all  may  be  ready 
when  the  work  of  propagation  s  commenced  in 
earnest.  Avon. 


402 


THE    GARDEN. 


[August  14,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fboits  Under  Glass. 

VINES  which  have  been  cleared  of  their 
crop  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed. 
If  the  leaves  are  badly  infested  with 
red  spider,  a  great  deal  may  be  done 
by  freely  syringing  with  the  garden 
engine — following  a  dressing  of  some 
approved  insecticide— and  this  should  be  repeated 
till  the  pests  have  been  thoroughly  eradicated,  it 
being  most  essential  to  keep  the  leaves  as  fresh 
and  healthy  as  possible  for  the  rest  of  the  season. 
Strawberry  Plants  Jor  Forcinq.— Get  those 
whioh  have  been  layered  in  small  pots  transferred 
to  their  fruiting  size.  When  potting  use  a  rather 
heavy  soil,  with  a  little  burnt  earth,  wood-ashes 
and  decayed  manure  added  to  keep  it  open  and 
sweet.  Pot  rather  firmly,  regulating  this  accord- 
ing to  the  nature  and  condition  of  the  soil,  i.e. ,  if 
light  ram  more  firmly  and  less  if  heavy.  Stand 
the  pots  in  a  shady  place  for  a  few  days  and 
syringe  two  or  three  times  daily  till  the  roots 
take  to  the  fresh  soil,  when  the  pots  may  be 
stood  in  an  open  spot.  Keep  them  free  from 
weeds  and  runners  and  well  supplied  with 
water. 

Fruit  Trees  in  Pots.— Do  not  neglect  these  so 
soon  as  the  fruits  have  been  gathered  if  a  crop 
next  year  is  expected  :  but  feed  at  intervals, 
keeping  the  leaves  clean  and  healthy  as  long  as 
possible. 

Kitchen  Gabdbn. 

Cucumbers  Under  Glass.- li  not  done  already, 
plants  raised  for  autumn  fruiting  should  be  put 
out  where  they  are  intended  to  fruit  as  soon  as 
possible.  Use  a  rather  rough  and  lumpy  cdm- 
post  and  keep  the  structure  close  and  Well 
supplied  with  moisture.  Those  plants  which  are 
now  commencing  to  bear  should  not  be  over- 
cropped, but  regulated  according  to  the  strength 
of  the  growths.  Attend  well  to  the  syringing  of 
the  foliage  in  bright  weather,  but  on  dull,  sun- 
less days  this  should  be  lessened.  Keep  the 
roots  in  a  healthy  and  moderately  moist  condi- 
tion and  the  atmosphere  sweet  and  fresh,  other- 
wise mildew  may  attack  the  leaves  and  do  a  deal 
of  harm  to  the  future  supply  of  fruits. 

Tomatoes.— li  the  plants  intended  for  autumn 
fruiting  have  been  potted  up  and  stood  outside, 
and  are  to  take  the  place  of  any  which  may  have 
ceased  bearing  under  glass,  no  time  should  be 
lost  in  getting  them  placed  in  the  position 
required.  Keep  all  side  growths  removed  and 
the  leading  stems  neatly  and  carefully  tied  to 
the  trellises.  Be  careful  not  to  over-water  till  the 
pots  are  well  filled  with  roots,  and  do  not  let  the 
temperature  be  too  moist  in  wet,  dull  weather. 
For  late  use  Lye's  Favourite  and  Carter's  Sun- 
rise are  very  dependable  varieties  to  grow. 
Plants  Under  Glass. 

Show  aiid  Fancy  Pelargoniums. —Those  which 
have  been  kept  dry  may  now  be  pruned  to 
within  a  few  eyes  of  the  old  wood,  and  then 
stood  in  a  pit  or  frame  to  break.  They  may  be 
afforded  moisture  at  the  roots  and  slightly 
syringed  overhead  to  encourage  a  strong  break. 
After  the  new  growths  are  about  an  inch  long 
shake  all  the  old  soil  from  among  the  roots, 
shorten  the  latter  and  repot,  using  pots  just 
large  enough  to  take  the  roots  without  these 
being  too  much  cramped,  and  repot  again  at  a 
later  date.  If  needed  strike  more  cuttings  for  a 
younger  supply  of  plants  and  use  a  rather  sandy 
compost. 

Attend  carefully  to  all  plants  which  may  have 
been  struck  from  cuttings  and  planted  out  in  an 
open  position  to  be  taken  up  and  potted  for  a 
supply  of  bloom  in  winter  and  early  spring.  Keep 
the   soil  free   from    weeds,  stake  the  plants  to 


prevent  breakage  by  wind  or  rain,  if  such  be 
needed,  and  endeavour  as  far  as  possible  to  obtain 
nice  bushy  heads. 

Pot  up  Cyclamen,  using  a  rather  sandy  com- 
post,  and  stand  them   in   a  suitable  structure 
where  they  are  not  too  far  from  the  glass. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

The  Consera  atory. 
Climbing  Plants  of  several  kinds  will  now 
have  completed  their  season's  growth,  and  a 
thinning  out  of  weakly  or  superabundant  shoots, 
and  the  securing  of  those  remaining  in  positions 
where  most  needed,  will  give  a  better  appear- 
ance within  the  structure  and  admit  of  a  more 
free  diffusion  of  light  to  subjects  growing 
beneath.  Roses  in  particular  will  now  be  past 
flowering,  and  opportunity  may  profitably  be 
taken  to  prune  away  old  and  effete  wood  and 
train  to  place  a  sufficiency  of  the  current  year's 
growth,  after  which  the  foliage  may  be  thoroughly 
cleansed  and  then  sprinkled  daily  to  encourage 
growth.  This  treatment,  combined  with  copious 
supplies  of  water  at  the  roots,  will,  with  many 
varieties,  result  in  a  good  number  of  blooms  in 
late  autumn. 

Plants  in  Flower,  such  as  Lilies,  Fuchsias, 
Begonias,  Zonal  Geraniums  and  others  that  are 
required  to  make  a  display  for  a  long  season, 
should  be  liberally  treated  in  the  matter  of 
nourishment  by  having  manure- water  applied  at 
least  once  a  week.  More  important  still  is  care- 
ful provision  of  water  at  the  roots  in  general,  as 
on  drying  days  evaporation  is  so  rapid  and  the 
demand  for  moisture  so  great  that  unless  closely 
looked  after  irreparable  mischief  is  done  before 
one  is  aware  of  it. 

Pelargoniiims  of  the  fancy  types  will  now  be 
past  the  flowering  stage,  and  if  increase  of  stock 
is  required  some  of  the  best  shoots  may  be  in- 
serted as  cuttings,  a  cold  frame  affording  suffi- 
cient protection  at  this  time.  Earlier  plants 
pruned  some  time  ago  will  now  have  sprouted 
freely  and  be  in  need  of  repotting.  Turn  the 
plants  from  the  pots  and  with  a  pointed  stick 
remove  the  crocks  and  most  of  the  soil ;  after- 
wards trim  closely  any  straggling  roots  and 
replace  in  medium-sized  pots  to  allow  of  a  further 
shift  later  on.  Good  loam  well  broken  up,  leaf- 
mould,  a  little  bone-meal  and  the  usual  correc- 
tives according  to  the  texture  of  the  bulk,  form 
a  very  suitable  compost. 

Hardy  Flowers. 

Carnations  of  the  border  type  are  late  in 
flowering,  and  the  usual  practice  of  layering 
when  this  stage  is  passed  must  be  departed  from, 
or  rooted  layers  will  not  be  obtained  in  autumn. 
The  process  of  layering  differs  but  little  from 
that  described  for  pot  plants  a  fortnight  ago, 
only  in  this — the  ordinary  soil  surrounding  each 
plant  must  be  substituted  by  a  finely  sifted 
mixture  of  a  sandy  nature  to  a  depth  of  .3  inches. 
Into  this  the  layers,  after  being  divested  of  super- 
abundant leaves  and  slit  or  tongued,  may  be 
pressed  firmly  and  pegged  to  prevent  the  possi- 
bility of  their  moving.  Water  must  afterwards 
be  applied  according  to  necessity,  and  should 
birds  prove  troublesome  by  disturbing  the  fresh 
soil  in  search  of  grubs,  herring-net  suspended 
over  the  plots  is  likely  to  be  most  effective. 

Sioeet  Peas.— These  are  far  from  promising  at 
present,  the  continued  wet  weather  causing  a  soft, 
sappy  growth  and  but  few  flowers.  Attend  well 
to  staking,  and  as  far  as  possible  keep  the 
growths  erect ;  withhold  stimulants  by  way  of 
manure-water,  also  mulching  material,  if  not 
already  applied,  until  a  change  takes  place. 
Kitchen  Garden. 

Early  Celery  should  be  earthed  as  it  becomes 
fit,  ample  supplies  of  water  being  previously 
given  and  the  plants  allowed  to  dry,  if  needful. 


If  for  exhibition,  a  fold  of  tissue  paper  sur- 
rounded by  seme  of  stouter  texture  is  better 
than  soil  for  blanching,  and  the  risk  of  the  leaf- 
stalks being  injured  by  worms  and  grubs  is 
greatly  minimised. 

Potatoes. — Early  varieties  left  for  seed  may 
now  be  raised,  as  the  risk  of  disease  is  considerable, 
and  if  the  skins  are  set  the  tubers  will  keep 
equally  as  well  in  a  cool  place.  Late  varieties 
may  as  a  precautionary  measure  be  sprayed 
with  Bordeaux  compound,  using  this  when  the 
haulm  is  quite  dry  and  when  the  mixture  is  not 
likely  to  be  washed  off  by  rain. 

Cucumbers  in  frames  should  receive  a  top- 
dressing  of  good  loam  when  the  roots  show  upon 
the  surface  ;  syringe  the  foliage  with  chilled 
water  on  warm  afternoons,  but  forego  this 
treatment  when  dulness  prevails.  Close  the 
lights  early  to  conserve  sun-heat. 

Peas.— Late  varieties  of  these  are  growing  very 
freely  and  the  taller  among  them  show  signs  of 
becoming  top-heavy  ;  prevent  their  falling  over 
by  additional  stakes  if  possible,  or,  failing  in  this, 
stop  the  growth  in  good  time. 

Salading. — Frequent  sowings  of  Endive  and 
Lettuce  should  be  made,  and  thin  early  sowings 
in  time  so  that  sturdy  growth  can  be  counted 
upon.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  McEaoharn. ) 

GaUoinay  House,  Oarlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Dendrobum  Sanlierji;. — This  is  a  new  intro- 
duction from  New  Guinea,  and  is  a  really 
beautiful  and  unique  plant.  The  flowers  are 
rather  large,  the  sepals  being  lanceolate  and 
acute,  the  segments  reflexing  to  a  good  extent. 
The  petals  are  about  three  times  as  wide  as  the 
sepals,  and  all  are  pure  glistening  white.  The 
labellum  is  large,  spreading  and  pure  white 
at  the  apex,  the  throat  being  marked  with  dull 
claret  and  green.  The  stems  are  long,  jointed 
and  of  the  usual  Dendrobium  character.  Shown 
by  Messrs.  F.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans. 
First-class  certificate. 

Catthya  Warscewiczii  W.  Waters  Butler. — A 
beautiful  flower  with  a  name  too  unwieldy  for 
general  use.  The  flowers  are  larger  and  more 
intense  in  colour  than  the  type,  the  form,  too, 
being  well-nigh  perfect.  Shown  by  W.  Waters 
Butler,  Esq.,  Southfield,  Norfolk  Road, 
Edgbaston.     Award  of  merit. 

Qalega  Hartlandii.—Thia  plant  is  now  well 
known  to  cultivators  of  hardy  perennial  flowers, 
and  may  best  be  described  as  a  bicolor  form  of 
G.  officinale,  from  which  it  is  quite  distinct. 
From  the  Royal  Horticultural  Gardens,  Wisley. 
Award  of  merit. 

Spiraa  venusta  magnifica. — A  very  fine  plant 
for  cool  and  moist  ground  or  for  water-side 
gardening.  The  flowers  are  of  rosy  crimson  hue, 
and  are  produced  in  large,  cyme-like  heads.  The 
plant  is  of  an  imposing  stature.  Exhibited  by 
Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Enfield.     Award  of  merit. 

Carnation  Fiery  Furnace. — Yellow  ground 
fancy  variety,  heavily  coloured  scarlet.  From 
Messrs.  Blaokmore  and  Langdon,  Bath.  Award 
of  merit. 

Carnation  Jupiter.— A  most  distinct  yellow 
ground  fancy,  with  clear  rosy  pink  colouring. 
In  every  way  a  delightful  flower.  Exhibited  by 
Mr.  Charles  Bliok,  Warren  Nurseries,  Hayes, 
Kent.     Award  of  merit. 

Carnation  Elizabeth  Shifner.—A  remarkably 
good  self-coloured  flower  of  excellent  form.  The 
colouring  is  from  pale  to  deep  buff  yellow,  the 
centre  of  the  flower  merging  into  apricot. 
Award  of  merit. 

Carnation  King  of  /Spam.— The  largest  and 
best-formed  maroon  flaked  fancy  we  have  seen. 
Underlying  this  intense  colouring  there  is  just  a 
suspicion  of  yellow.  It  is  a  most  handsome 
flower.  Award  of  merit.  This  excellent  pair 
were  exhibited  by  Mr.  James  Douglas,  Great 
Bookham,  Surrey. 


AOGUST  U,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN, 


403 


Nymphma  stellata  Earl  0/  Warwick. — A  rose- 
ooloured  form  of  N.  stellata.  The  variety  is 
probably  a  natural  hybrid,  and  occurred  in  a 
batch  of  seedlings  of  the  typical  form.  From  the 
Earl  of  Warwick,  Easton  Lodge,  Dunmow. 
Award  of  merit. 

Tunica  Saxifraga  flore  plctm.  — This  is  simply 
a  very  pure  white  double-flowered  variety  of  a 
well-known  plant  suited  to  rock  and  wall  garden- 
ing. It  is,  however,  a  very  charming  plant. 
Exhibited  by  Bakers,  Wolverhampton.  Award 
of  merit. 

Gloxinia  (strain). — An  admirable  strain  of 
these  flowers  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  February 
last  was  exhibited  by  Messrs.  Veitch,  the  colours 
embracing  purple,  violet,  crimson,  carmine,  rose, 
pale  and  deep  pink,  white  and  many  spotted  or 
fancy  sorts.  The  flowers  were  of  the  largest 
size.     Award  of  merit. 


NEW    FRUIT. 

Melon  Bamet  Hill  Favourite. — A  medium-sized, 
rich  yellow  and  oval-shaped  fruit  with  white 
flesh  and  somewhat  sparsely  netted  skin.  We 
understand  this  variety  has  been  grown  for  trial 
in  the  society's  gardens  at  Wisley.  Raised  by 
Mr.  Mitohelson,  Wonersh,  Guildford.  Award 
of  merit. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  on  the  3rd  inst., 
when  the  awards  were  made. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit 
tree,  shrub.  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 

Hydrangeas  from  Handcross. 
Mr.  J.  Comber  of  The  Gardens,  Nymans, 
Handcross,  sends  us  sprays  of  four  interesting 
and  distinct  Hydrangeas,  which  we  are  most 
pleased  to  see.  He  writes:  "I  enclose  four 
species  of  Hydrangea,  named,  as  purchased  from 
Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and  Sons.  H.  Thunbergii  and 
H.  flore  albo  are  both  beautiful  and  distinct 
and  are  cut  from  the  open,  as  also  is  H.  aspera. 
H.  manchurica  is  only  just  opening  its  flowers  ; 
the  specimen  sent  has  been  grown  in  a  pot.  All 
four  make  large  bushes  in  this  garden  and  grow 
freely,  with  the  exception  of  H.  Thunbergii, 
which  is  small  in  all  its  parts." 

More  Delphiniums  from  Scotland. 
Dr.  McWatt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B.,  sends 
us  some  more  of  his  very  beautiful  Delphiniums, 
many  of  which  are  of  much  more  than  usual 
merit.  Among  others,  the  following  specially 
appeal  to  us  on  account  of  their  great  beauty  and 
refinement:  Morelands  Fanciful. — Intense  sky 
blue,  shaded  lavender,  black  eye,  very  fine ; 
single.  Morelands  Intense.  — Outer  petals,  intense 
blue  ;  inner,  intense  mauve  ;  dark  eye.  More- 
lands  Gem.  — Double ;  outer  petals,  intense  blue ; 
inner,  mauve ;  green  eye.  Morelands  Blue.  — 
Single ;  intense  blue,  with  white  eye ;  the 
colour  is  very  fine.  Morelands  Blue  and  Purple.  — 
Outer  petals,  intense  blue ;  inner,  light  purple  ; 
double;  white  eye.  Morelands  Double  Purple. — 
Green  eye.  Morelands  Fancy. — Blue,  suffused 
with  heliotrope ;  white  eye.  Morelands  Tur- 
quoise Blue,  Morelands  Royal  Purple,  Morelands 
Pervanche  Blue  and  Morelands  Lavender  were 
Also  sent. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers. — The  Editor  interids 
',0  make  The  aARCEH  help/ul  to  a!Z  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  wUl  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  CorrespondeTUs"  column.  AU  comrnunica. 
tions  should  be  clearly  (md  concisely  written  on  vne  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EniTOB  of  IHK 
SASDEB,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Qa/rden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  PnBLISHKK. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Hollyhoeks  diseased  {E.  Hinckley). 

The  plants  are  attacked  by  the  well-known 
Hollyhock  disease,  caused  by  the  fungus  Pueeinia 
raalvacearum.  Nothing  can  be  done  when  the 
disease  has  reached  such  an  advanced  stage  as 
this.  Seedlings  should  be  raised  and  sprayed  at 
intervals  with  a  rose  red  solution  of  potassium 
permanganate. 

Sweet  Peas  diseased  {E.  iif.).— The 

Peas  are  attacked  at  the  base  of  the  stem  by  the 
fungus  Thielavia  basicola,  a  pest  that  is  doing 
great  damage  this  year  to  Peas,  both  Sweet  Peas 
and  culinary.  It  has  been  said  that  an  alkaline 
condition  of  the  soil  tends  to  render  the  plants 
more  susceptible  to  the  attacks  of  the  fungus,  and 
that  manuring  with  superphosphate  checks  the 
spread  of  the  disease. 

Foxglove   with  unusual  flowers 

[Red  Base). — The  change  or  abortion  is  a  freak 
that  is  neither  rare  nor  common,  though  we  see 
instances  from  time  to  time.  If  you  think  it 
worth  while  to  try  and  save  or  increase  it,  you 
might  do  so  by  raising  seedlings  from  the  one 
flower  referred  to,  though  you  may  raise  a  large 
number  before  you  get  the  one  you  would  wish 
for.  Most  frequently,  however,  the  stigma  is 
abortive  and  no  good  seed  is  produced.  By 
watching  you  may  presently  discover  an  exception 
to  this  rule,  and  if  you  come  across  a  stigma  that 
is  normal  and  where  good  pollen  is  available  in 
any  of  these  freak  flowers,  an  interesting  series 
of  seedlings  might  be  looked  for. 

Romneya  diseased  (Lady  T.).— The  Bomneya  is 

attacked  at  the  base  of  the  shoots  by  the  fungus  Botrytis 
cinerea.  This  fungus  is  very  common,  grows  for  a  time  on 
decaying  vegetable  matter  and  spreads  from  that  on  to 
living  plants  of  various  kinds.  On  this  account  it  is 
important  that  as  little  organic  matter  as  possible  should 
be  used  near  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and,  above  all,  avoid 
the  use  of  any  but  thoroughly  decayed  manure. 

Various  questions  (Richard  Haigh). — We  are  not 
acquainted  with  the  Gypsophila  you  name,  and  suggest 
your  communicating  with  the  source  of  your  supply. 
The  only  objection  to  much  thinning  of  the  Roses  is  that  it 
may  cause  bleeding,  especially  if  the  thinning  means  cutting 
away  from  the  base  all  superfluous  material.  It  would 
be  better  if  the  work  of  thinning  was  done  periodically 
between  September  and  March,  and  in  this  way  confine 
the  plants  to  the  most  valuable  of  the  flowering  wood. 
The  permanganate  of  potash  is  usually  employed  for 
spraying  purposes  as  a  deterrent  to  the  more  minute  of 
fungoid  growths. 


variety  of  the  Himalayan  species,  Syringa  Emodi. 
As  you  say  that  the  flowers  were  reddish  purple 
last  year,  it  is  presumably  the  variety  known  as 
rosea,  and  sometimes  met  with  under  the  name 
of  Syringa  Bretachneideri ;  it  is,  however,  im- 
possible to  account  for  the  colour  being  so  pale 
this  year,  for  it  is  very  similar  to  that  of  typical 
S.  Emodi,  though  the  inflorescence  is  smaller. 
Possibly  the  variety  is  reverting  to  the  type.  It 
would  be  interesting  to  watch  how  the  colour 
comes  next  year. 

TFlmmlngr  a  Laurel  hedge  ( T.  H.  S. ). 

It  is  advisable  to  trim  a  Laurel  hedge  twice  a 
year — the  first  time  as  soon  as  the  growth  is 
well  advanced,  say,  the  middle  of  June,  and  again 
in  autumn.  If  your  hedge  is  not  a  very  long 
one,  you  will  find  it  advantageous  to  do  the  trim- 
ming with  secateurs,  for  if  you  use  shears  a  lot 
of  leaves  will,  perforce,  be  mutilated,  which  will 
give  it  a  rather  unsightly  appearance  until  growth 
recommences.  If  j  ou  find  at  any  time  that  the 
hedge  is  getting  too  wide  and  requires  a  vigorous 
cutting  back,  you  had  better  do  the  work  about 
the  middle  of  April.  By  doing  this  it  will  break 
again  quickly  and  look  ugly  for  the  shortest 
possible  time. 

Pruning  Yew^S  ( Younq  Gardener). — Your 
Yews  can  be  cut  into  shape  without  fear  of 
harming  them  seriously.  The  work  ought  to  be 
done  in  April,  then  growth  will  commence  again 
almost  at  once.  If  you  did  the  work  now  the 
plants  would  look  ugly  until  next  summer,  and 
would  not  break  away  so  freely  as  they  will  if 
you  defer  the  work  until  next  year.  Should  the 
weather  be  dry  when  you  do  the  work,  syringe 
the  plants  twice  a  day  for  a  few  weeks.  A 
top-dressing  of  well-rotted  manure  will  do  good 
when  the  trees  begin  to  grow  again.  Border 
Chrysanthemums  can  be  planted  any  time  pro- 
viding they  are  in  pots.  If,  however,  they  have 
been  planted  out  in  a  frame  or  nursery  border, 
do  the  work  on  a  showery  day.  Any  time  after 
the  middle  of  May  until  August  is  a  suitable 
time.  Azalea  mollis  for  forcing  ought  to  be 
ordered  at  once  for  delivery  at  the  end  of 
September  or  early  October.  If  you  order  early 
you  are  likely  to  obtain  better  plants  than  if  you 
leave  your  order  until  the  last  minute. 

Leaf  of  tree  fop  Inspection  (IT.  Jackson).— 
The  specimen  you  send  is  a  variety  of  the  common  Beech 
known  as  Fagus  sylvatica  heterophylla.  It  has  many 
synonyms,  such  as  incisa,  laciniata,  salicifotia  and  aspleni- 
folia-  The  common  names  of  Fern-leaved  Beech  and  Cut- 
leaved  Beech  are  also  applied  to  it.  It  is  usually  grafted 
on  to  stocks  of  the  type,  F.  sylvatica,  and  the  bark  you 
send  is  common  Beech  bark.  When  mature  it  forms  an 
exceedingly  handsome  tree  and  is  generally  admired. 

W^alnut  leaves  going:  wn»ongr  (Mrs.  E.  B.  F.). 
The  Walnut  leaves  are  attacked  by  one  of  the  spinning 
mites,  and  to  them  the  death  of  the  leaves  is  due.  The 
attack  of  these  mites  is  encouraged  by  dry  conditions,  and 
anything  that  can  be  done  to  prevent  the  tree  from 
becoming  dry  will  help  to  keep  the  pest  in  check.  If 
spraying  can  be  done,  it  would  be  well  to  spray  with  a 
solution  of  potassium  sulphide  at  the  rate  of  loz.  to  three 
gallons  of  water. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 

Poplar  leaves  disfigured  {J.  L.).— 
The  galls  on  the  Poplar  leaves  are  caused  by  the 
insect  named  Pemphigus  bursarius.  If  you  break 
one  open  you  will  find  that  it  is  filled  with 
aphis-like  insects.  Attacks  are  frequently  local, 
and  one  tree  in  a  group  may  be  badly  affected 
and  the  remainder  escape.  The  only  way  to  cope 
with  the  disease  is  to  remove  the  galls  by  hand- 
picking  and  burn  them.  It  is  probable  that  some 
good  might  be  done  by  spraying  the  affected  tree 
once  a  week  with  paraffin  emulsion. 

Lilac  for  Identification  {The  Misses 
S.). — The  Lilac  specimen  you  send  is  not  the 
garden  variety  Charles  X. ,  as  you  imagine,  but  a 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
The  origin  of  the  Dawson  Rose 

(  W.  Green). — We  believe  this  Rose  was  raised  in 
the  Arnold  Arboretum  in  the  United  States  of 
America,  and  resulted  from  crossing  the  single- 
flowered  climbing  Polyantha  Rose,  R.  polyantha 
simplex,  with  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  General 
Jacqueminot.  The  best  way  to  grow  it  is  to 
allow  it  to  ramble  away  as  it  likes.  Do  not 
prune  away  any  of  the  young  growths,  but 
remove  old,  worn-out  wood  soon  after  flowering. 
It  may  be  used  to  form  a  hedge  of  moderate 
height.  It  also  looks  charming  when  running 
over  some  old  tree  stumps,  as  at  Kew  Gardens 
near  the  ornamental  waters. 

Old-fashioned  Roses  {Dm-king).— You 
would  obtain  the  yellow  Scotch  Rose  from  either 
of  the  firms  of  Paul  or  of  Mr.  Turner,  Slough. 
Probably  the  bright  red  climbing  Rose  you  refer 
to  is  either  Vivid  or  Fulgens.  We  do  not  think 
it  can  be  a'  Monthly,  as  these  are  not  specially 


404 


THE    GARDEN. 


[August  14,  1909 


sweet.  They  are,  however,  splendid  for  walls 
where  a  brilliant  bit  of  colour  is  wanted.  Some 
good  old-faehioned  Roses  for  arches  and  climbing 
would  be :  Blairii  No.  2,  Chenedole,  Coupe 
d'Hebe,  Brennus,  Charles  Lawson,  Aim^e  Vibert, 
*Jaune  Desprez,  Paul  Perras,  *Reve  d'Or,  "Celine 
Forestier,  *Solfaterre,  *Gloire  des  Rosomanes, 
Baron  de  Wassanter  (Moss),  Zenobia  (Moss), 
Crimson  Globe  (Moss),  La  Ville  de  Bruxelles, 
Mme.  Legras,  Mme.  d'Arblay,  Laure  Davoust, 
*Zepherin  Drouhin,  Filieite  Perpetue,  Flora, 
Bennett's  Seedling,  Ruga,  Splendens,  Morletti, 
*Ma  Surprise,  *GIoire  de  Dijon  and  •Mme.  Berard. 
Those  marked  with  an  asterisk  would  be  best 
against  south  or  west  walls. 

Sweet  Briars  for  hedgre  m.A.O.B.). 
You  could  certainly  grow  Sweet  Briars  in  the 
position  described,  especially  the  Hybrid  Sweet 
Briars  raised  by  Lord  Penzance.  A  very  beauti- 
ful sort  is  Anne  of  Geierstein,  with  glowing 
crimson  flowers,  and  there  are  several  others  of 
varying  tints.  Plant  them  in  well-dug  soil 
2  feet  apart  and  cut  down  to  about  2  feet  at  the 
time  of  planting.  We  think  you  would  also  do 
well  to  plant  the  Tamarisk,  as  it  thrives  so  well 
near  the  sea.  The  variety  hispida  .estivalis  is 
especially  beautiful  and  fast-growing.  Lavender 
and  China  Roses  on  the  west  side  would  also 
make  a  charming  feature  in  your  garden.  A 
lovely  Rose  for  a  hedge  would  be  Griiss  an 
Teplitz,  and  Mme.  Alfred  Carritre  is  another. 
These  are  very  strong-growing,  but  could  be 
tied  down  if  they  grew  faster  than  the  Tamarisk. 
Some  good  dwarf  flowering  shrubs  to  hide  a  low 
wall  M  ould  be  Pemettya,  Crataegus  Pyracantha 
Lelandii  (this  could  be  kept  low  by  pruning), 
Cotoneaster  horizontals,  Berberidopsis  (should 
do  very  well),  Ceanothus  Indigo,  Amorpha  canes- 
cens,  Caryopteris  Mastaoanthus,  Hypericum 
moserianum,  Cydonia  japonica  of  sorts.  Clematis 
recta,  and  Japanese  Roses,  single-flowered,  pink 
and  white,  with  beautiful  showy  fruit.  Some 
good  Philadelphuses  are  Lemoineii  ereetus,  L. 
Boule  d'Argent,  L.  Mont  Blanc,  speciosus, 
Zeyheri,  coronarius,  gordonianus  and  purpureo- 
maculatus. 

Tea  Rosea  for  exhibition  (Wood- 
pecker)— You  must  certainly  abandon  the  idea 
of  growing  exhibition  Tea  Roses  under  glass  to 
bloom  from  July  to  September.  During  these 
months  Roses  are  very  difficult  to  handle  under 
glass,  and  those  who  force  Roses  are  generally 
resting  their  plants  at  that  time.  Those  who 
compete  so  successfully  in  the  Tea  Rose  classes 
generally  have  a  number  of  established  plants 
growing  against  walls,  and  some  growers  rely 
upon  half-standard  Briars  which,  budded  last 
year,  would  this  year  give  superb  blooms  from 
soil  suitable  for  Tea  Roses.  We  advise  you  to 
procure  a  number  of  healthy  half-standard  Briars 
with  stems  ranging  from  1|  feet  to  2.',  feet. 
Plant  them  in  October  in  well-trenched  ground 
wherein  plenty  of  farmyard  manure  has  been 
incorporated  and  cultivate  them  well.  Bud 
them  next  summer.  The  following  autumn 
dig  in  some  rich  manure,  and  in  February 
of  1911  apply  a  good  dressing  of  Tonk's 
manure.  As  the  buds  appear  an  application  of 
guano  or  liquid  manure  will  be  most  helpful. 
The  growths  must  be  severely  disbudded,  not 
only  to  remove  the  side  buds  and  retain  the 
central  one  if  of  perfect  shape,  but  also  the 
small  lateral  growths  that  emerge  even  before 
the  bud  shows  colour.  We  think  if  you 
do  this  and  bud  only  good  exhibition  varieties 
you  will  be  a  successful  grower  of  these 
superb  Roses.  A  dozen  good  sorts  to  grow 
are :  White  Maman  Cochet,  Bridesmaid,  Mme. 
Jules  Gravereaux,  Maman  Cochet,  Medea,  Mrs. 
E.  Mawley,  Muriel  Grahame,  Mrs.  Myles 
Kennedy,  The  Bride,  Mme.  Cusin,  Boadicea  and 
Souv.  de  Pierre  Notting.  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux 
is  one  you  could  grow  very  well  as  a  bush.  If 
pruned  long  it  flowers  from  every  shoot  and  pro- 
duces immense  blooms.  Although  we  advise  you 
to  try  Tea  Koses  as  described  above,  we  should 


counsel  you  to  grow  more  of  the  Hybrid  Teas. 
They  are  now  the  exhibitor's  mainstay,  and  you 
could  grow  superb  specimens  on  the  Briar  cuttings 
from  one  year  old  plants,  with,  of  course,  the 
usual  care  in  the  preparation  of  the  soil.  Those 
exhibitors  that  are  most  successful  at  the  shows 
invariably  bud  a  quantity  of  Briars  each  year,  as 
a  large  number  of  the  sorts  grown  are  better  as 
maidens  than  as  cut-backs. 

Roses  with  cupled  leaves  (W.  B.  £,.).— The 
curiou3  folding  over  of  the  Rose  foliage  sent  is  known  as 
leaf-curl.  It  is  supposed  to  arise  from  the  punctures  of 
the  larvas  of  the  leaf-rolling  sawfly.  The  leaves  usually 
present  this  curious  cylindrical  form.  If  one  of  the  folds 
is  opened,  one  or  more  of  the  green  larva?  will  be  found 
inside,  and  when  the  leaf  dies  they  remove  to  other 
leaves  ;  hence  the  mischief  is  spread.  The  best  plan  to 
eradicate  the  peat  is  to  hand-pick  the  first  leaves  that  are 
seen  to  be  injured  and  burn  them.  When  fullygrown  the 
sawflies  fall  to  the  ground  and  enter  the  soil  in  August, 
when  they  at  once  assume  the  cocoon  form.  Here  they 
remain  until  February  and  March,  when  they  pupate. 
Some  authorities  assert  that  the  pest  is  introduced  to  our 
gardens  in  the  roots  of  Briars,  and  recommend  washing 
the  roots  before  planting ;  but  observers  may  see  the 
same  injurious  effect  upon  our  wild  Roses,  and  doubtless 
they  arrive  in  our  gardens  sometimes  from  these  hedgerow 
Briars. 

Rose  Pplnce  de  Bulsapie  opening'  badly 
(E.  G.  B.y—We  think  the  excessive  moisture  in  the 
atmosphere  and  the  recent  heavy  rains  are  mainly 
responsible  for  the  blooms  expanding  so  badly.  If  you 
notice,  the  outer  petals  are  quite  decayed.  Some  varie- 
ties can  withstand  rain  better  than  others,  and  this 
variety  is  very  impatient  of  moisture.  Exhibitors  would 
put  shades  over  such  a  Rose,  but  one  can  hardly  do  this 
when  the  Roses  are  grown  for  decoration.  We  should 
remove  all  damaged  buds  and  flowers  and  concentrate  the 
strength  of  the  plants  into  the  smaller  buds,  for  these 
Hybrid  Teas  are  such  prolific  bloomers  that  they  quickly 
make  up  for  any  deficiency  in  their  first  crop.  It  may  be 
that  the  wash  employed  for  the  green  fly  has  been  used  when 
the  blooms  were  too  near  unfolding.  It  is  best  when  the 
Roses  are  in  this  forward  condition  to  have  the  green  fly 
brushed  off,  or  else  take  the  shoots  affected  and  immerse 
them  80  that  the  more  advanced  buds  and  blooms  are  not 
injured  by  the  insecticide.  Mme.  Constant  .Soupert  has 
not  expanded  well  at  present.  This  Rose,  like  most  Tea- 
scented  varieties,  glories  in  sunshine.  Try  some  of  it 
against  a  south  wall  another  season,  for  it  is  a  gem  and 
worth  some  care  in  its  culture. 


THE  GREENHOUSE 
Forcing:  Tulips  (S.).— We  do  not  know 
any  modern  work  that  deals  in  any  detail  with 
Tulip-forcing.  General  outlines  of  the  treatment 
to  be  followed  are  to  be  found  in  any  general 
work  on  bulbs  and  bulb  culture.  If,  however, 
you  can  procure  "  Bulbs  and  Bulb  Culture,"  by 
D.  T.  Fish,  you  will  find  full  instructions  how 
to  proceed.  It  is,  however,  a  scarce  work,  now 
out  of  print,  but  there  is  no  better  book  to  be 
had.  You  might  possibly  meet  with  it  at  some 
second-hand  book  shop,  and  the  book  would  be 
cheap  if  you  got  it  for  10s.  or  12s.  There  are 
full  details  of  forcing  Tulips  on  a  large  scale  for 
market  given  in  Le  Jardin  for  October  5, 
1908  (No.  519).  Sixpence  sent  to  La  Direction 
du  Jardin,  84  bis.  Rue  de  Grenelle,  Paris,  would, 
no  doubt,  procure  you  a  copy.  If  you  would 
kindly  tell  us  where  your  difficulties  are,  we 
might  be  able  to  help  with  advice. 

IVIargruerites     groingr     wrong: 

(C  O.  G.). — Your  Marguerites  are  very  badly 
attacked  by  the  leaf-burrowing  insect,  which 
causes  so  much  trouble  to  the  cultivators  of  these 
useful  plants.  Its  ravages  seem  greatly  on  the 
increase,  for  we  have  had  numerous  examples 
sent  us  from  various  parts  of  the  country.  The 
little  grubs  which  cause  the  mischief  are  the 
larvae  of  a  tiny  fly,  which  punctures  the  leaves 
and  deposits  her  eggs  therein.  As  soon  as  they 
hatch  these  grubs  commence  their  work  of 
destruction.  Badly  infested  leaves  should  be 
picked  off  and  burnt,  and  where  these  pests  are 
not  so  numerous  they  may  be  killed  by  a  pinch 
between  the  finger  and  thumb.  Besides  this,  a 
sharp  look-out  must  be  kept  for  the  little  flies, 
which  should  be  killed  as  soon  as  possible. 
Spraying  the  plants  with  quassia  extract  is  by 
some  cultivators  recommended,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent the  females  depositing  their  eggs  on  the 
leaves.  It  will  be  quite  cafe  to  take  cuttings 
from  the  infected  plants  if  you  take  care  that 
the  leaves  have  no  living  insects  in  them. 


Oesneras,  Melons  and  Poin- 
settias  for  inspection  (^.  Houghton).— 
The  plants  are  badly  attacked  by  eelworm.  The 
dead  roots  you  send  are  full  of  eggs  of  this  pest, 
and  very  great  care  should  be  taken  that  none 
of  the  soil  is  used  again  for  potting  purposes  ; 
it  would  be  far  better  to  burn  it  all.  The 
pots,  too,  should  be  sterilised  by  washing  in 
hot  water.  You  are  right  in  thinking  eelworms 
are  microscopic  and  the  white  insects  in  the 
soil  are  the  larvae  of  insects  and  feed  on  decaying 
vegetable  matter,  &e.  We  have  had  no  ex- 
perience with  the  soil  fumigant  you  mention. 

Paint   fop   pipes    In    Qpchld    house   {A. 

Boiistifld).—Yoa  may  safely  paint  the  pipes  of  your 
Orchid  house  with  boiled  Linseed  oil  and  lampblack,  to 
which  a  little  terebine  is  added.  It  should  be  put  on  and 
allowed  to  dry  before  the  plants  are  taken  into  the  house, 
and  after  that  it  will  not  injure  them  in  any  way.  Rain- 
water is  much  better  than  hard  water  for  filling  the  pipes. 
There  is  such  a  book  as  "  Warner's  Select  Orchids,"  but  it 
is  an  expensive  work  and  now  out  of  print.  You  might, 
however,  obtain  it  from  a  second-hand  bookseller.  There 
are  several  recent  works,  such  as  "  The  Book  of  Orchids," 
by  W.  H.  White,  Orchid-grower  to  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence, 
price  2s.  9d. ;  the  "  Orchid  Grower's  Manual,"  by  B.  S. 
Williams,  price  16s.  7d.  ;  or  "  Orchids  :  Their  Culture  and 
ilanagement,"  by  W.  Watson,  Curator,  Royal  Botanic 
Gardens,  Kew,  price  25s.  6d. 

Opchlds  at  end  of  August  (Orchid).— At  the 
end  of  August  there  are  very  few  white-flowered  Orchids 
in  bloom  suitable  for  wreaths.  You  may  get  flowers  of 
Odontoglossum  crispum  and  Odontoglossum  Pescatorei. 
and  possibly  the  white  variety  of  Cattleya  Schrbderfe, 
This  last,  however,  is  very  expensive.  With  regard  to  the 
price  you  would  likely  have  to  pay  for  flowers  or  flowering 
plants,  no  rule  can  he  laid  down,  as  the  supply  of  Orchid 
flowers,  especially  at  the  season  named,  is  very  limited, 
and  their  prices  fluctuate  day  by  day.  Any  large  society 
function,  by  creating  a  demand  for  these  flowers,  might 
cause  the  prices  to  rise  100  per  cent,  in  the  course  of 
a  day  or  two.  For  a  mixed  bouquet  Cattleya  blooms 
would  be  available,  and  sprays  of  some  of  the  small- 
flowered  Oncidiums  may  be  used  to  impart  a  light  effect. 
You  will  find  it  expensive  to  purchase  flowering  plants  of 
Orchids  for  the  sake  of  their  blossoms,  and  your  better 
way  will  be  to  write  to  two  or  three  of  the  nurserymen 
who  make  a  speciality  of  Orchid  culture,  asking  what 
flowers  they  will  be  prepared  to  supply  at  the  date 
named  and  the  price  thereof.  Some  of  the  large  flower- 
dealers  in  Covent  Garden  Market  would  also  be  prepared 
to  quote  for  a  supply  of  Orchid  blooms.  These  men  draw 
from  many  sources  where  large  quantities  of  Orchids  are 
grown,  and  therefore  a  few  very  hot  days  by  sending  off 
the  flowers  quickly,  or  a  few  abnormally  cold  ones  by  re- 
tarding them  to  a  corresponding  extent,  would  not  upset 
their  arrangements  as  it  would  yours  if  you  depended  on  a 
few  plants  for  the  supply  of  blooms  on  a  particular  day. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Tlie    cropping:    of    Peach    trees 

{31.  J.  H. ).  — We  think  you  are  very  unfortunate 
in  your  varieties.  Early  Alfred,  Early  Beatrice 
and  Alexander  are,  on  the  whole,  small  and  have 
nothing  to  recommend  them  but  their  earliness. 
They  have  all  been  discarded  by  good  growers 
for  many  years.  Alexandra  Noblesse  (which  we 
take  your  Alexandra  to  be)  is  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  delioiously  flavoured  of  all  Peaches, 
but  unfortunately  the  tree  is  an  uncertain  and 
light  cropper.  The  same  remarks  apply  to 
Early  Grosse  Mignonne.  Princess  of  Wales  is  a 
moderately  late  Peach.  It  is  one  of  the  hand- 
somest as  regards  colour  and  size,  and  the  tree  is 
generally  a  good  bearer,  but  the  quality  of  the 
flavour  is  only  second-rate.  Royal  George  is 
still  one  of  the  best  in  all  respects.  The  cause  of 
the  failure  of  your  trees  to  properly  set  their 
fruit  is  not  easy  to  determine.  With  some  of 
your  varieties  it  is  the  fault  of  their  constitution ; 
they  never  do  set  well.  Again,  the  pollen  of 
the  flowers  of  some  of  the  varieties  may  be  poor 
and  scanty  and  without  the  power  to  f  ecundise  the 
ovules.  Next  spring,  while  the  trees  are  in  bloom, 
take  the  precaution  to  pollinate  the  stigmas  of 
the  flowers  of  those  which  do  not  bear  freely  with 
pollen  from  the  Royal  George  tree,  and  also 
from  the  Princess  of  Wales.  This  may  work 
wonders  for  you,  as  the  pollen  of  these  varieties 
is  usually  strong  and  abundant  and  seldom  fails  to 
fertilise  the  flowers  to  which  it  is  applied.  You 
say  your  trees  grow  freely  and  are  well  looked 
after  as  regards  watering,  &c.  Possibly  they  grow 
too  freely  and  would  be  benefited  by  lOOt-pruning 
in  autumn  as  soon  as  the  leaves  h&ve  fallen. 


Supplement  to  THE   GARDEN,  August  i.\tli,   1909. 


some:   or   the   newer   narcissi. 


1.  Pr-ospero  (Johnstoni). 

4.  Challenger  (Engleheartii). 


2.  Snow  King  (Poeticus). 
5.  Rev.  D.  R.  Williamson 


7.  Masterpiece  (Engleheartli).  8.  Warley  Scarlet  (Engleheartil) 

10    Peten  Bar-p  11.  Lord  Roberts. 

{See  Special  Note  in  Article). 


3.  Czarina  (Giant  Leedsii). 
6.  Lady  of  Shalott  (Triandrus  Hybrid). 
9.  Triandrus  Hybrid  Seedling. 
12.  Fire  Queen  (Barrii). 


Hitdson  &  Kearns,  Ltd.,  Printefs,  London,  S.E. 


GARDEN. 


^^^^^^i 


-^=^^^- 


No.  1970.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


AUGU3T  21,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


Watekoeess    as   a 

Trees  and  Shrubs 

Salad  

405 

Cornus  capitata 

411 

SoTBS  or  THE  Week 

A  summer -flowering 

Forthcoming  events 

406 

Broom     

411 

Front  gardens  at 

KJTOHEN  GARDEN 

Kin  gston  ■  on  - 

Vegetables    at    THE 

Thames 

4flS 

Garden  Show 

411 

Horticultural  Trades 

GARDENING  FOR  BEOINNERS 

Associat  ion's 

Garden  work  week  by 

annual  meeting    . . 

4U6 

week        

413 

CORREflPONBEHOE 

Propagating    the 

In    a   County  Down 

Aucuba  and  Euony- 

garden     

4(IH 

mus 

iVi 

Roses    in    a    North 

A  chat  about  Chry- 

London garden    . . 

407 

santhemums    .     . . 

413 

British-raised  Roses 

407 

How  to  colour  Grapes 

413 

larkspurs  at  Bnfleld  . . 

407 

THE  TOWN  GARDEN    .. 

413 

Frdit  Garden 

Gardbninq  of  the  Week 

Strawberries  for  late 

For    the  South    and 

40S 

South  Midlands    . . 

414 

4ns 

For  the   North   and 

North  Midlands  .. 

414 

GREENHOnSE 

Notes  on  Orchids 

409 

Among  the  Roses 

414 

Editor's  Table      , .     . . 

414 

Flower  Garden 
Narcissus      Elf  rid  a 

Answers    to    Corbe- 

409 

SPOHDBHTS 

An   interesting  rock 
garden       

Some  good  Daffodils 
to  buy  now     . .     . . 

409 
410 

Flower  garden  . ,     . , 

Greenhouse 

Fruit  garden     . .     . . 
Miscellaneous  .,     .. 

416 
416 
415 
416 

Carnation  Jupiter   . . 

411 

Societies      

41B 

IliUUSTR 

ATIONS. 

Roses  in  a  North  London  gar 
The  new  Narcissus  Elfrida  Pe 

407 

arson 

408 

A  portion  of  the  rook  garden  at  Chaddlewood     , .  .     409 

The  new  yellow-ground  fancy  Carnation  Jupiter  . .    410 

Cornus  capitata  at  the  mouth  of  the  River  Dart  . .    411 

Propagating  the  Aucuba  and  Euonymua       . .     . .  412,  413 


BDITORIALi    NOTICBS. 

Bvary  department  cf  horticulture  is  represented  in  THE 
Gabdeh,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  tie  wishes  to  make 
the  "Ansviers  to  Correspotulents"  column  a  conspicuous 
featuret  andt  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
imU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o)  their  assistance. 
AU  communicatiorts  must  be  written  dearly  on  one  side 
only  0/  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Bditob  o/  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  ajui  address  o/  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
tmt  he  wUl  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  wiU  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  thai  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plOATily  stated.  It  must  be  disti-nctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  oumer  of  the  copyright  wiU  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evid&nce 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
win  oZoTK  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


WATERCRESS    AS    A 
SALAD. 


w 


Seasonable    Notes. 

ATERCRESS  ia  so  well  known 
that  many  may  think  it  some- 
what out  of  place  to  note 
its  value  as  a  salad.  It  is 
generally  used  as  a  spring 
salad,  and  on  the  Continent  is  a  great  favourite 
for  garnishing  ;  it  is  also  sometimes  cooked  like 
Spinach.  When  well  grown  in  clean  water  the 
leaves  are  large,  tender  and  pungent.  There 
are  not  many  varieties.  The  Improved  Broad- 
leaved  finds  most  favour  with  market  growers  ; 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  for  salad  the  smaller, 
ordinary  form,  which  has  a  more  branching 
habit,  is  welcome — at  least,  it  is  more  spreading. 
We  have  grown  the  plant  so  that  a  supply  was 
maintained  every  day  in  the  year,  and  this 
without  a  stream  or  water-course  ;  but  as  the 
Watercress  is  an  aquatic,  it  must  always  have  a 
moist  position,  though  it  is  unnecessary  for  its 
roots  to  be  in  water.  Few  plants  are  increased 
more  readily  or  root  so  quickly.  Of  course, 
these  remarks  apply  only  to  those  who  wish  for 
a  limited  or  daily  supply  for  the  home.  We 
have  made  beds  in  a  shady  spot ;  indeed,  for 
summer  they  were  in  a  dell  in  a  damp  situation  ; 
but  Watercress  can  be  grown  under  a  spreading 
Beech.  Not  much  soil  is  required^4  inches  to 
6  inches,  and  this  should  be  composed  of  decayed 
leaf-mould.  With  regard  to  the  size  of  the  bed, 
much  depends  upon  the  quantities  required.  We 
have  had  three  beds  in  the  summer  and  autumn 
adjoining  each  other,  9  feet  long  and  3  feet  wide, 
and  as  one  bed  was  out  over,  the  next  was  gone 
on  with.  Even  then  at  times  it  was  necessary  in 
very  hot  weather  to  gather  more  frequently  to 
prevent  the  large  growths  flowering.  There 
must  be  constant  cutting  over  when  growth  ia 
active,  as  the  old  shoots  soon  become  hard,  hot 
and  flavourlesa.  In  many  cases,  with  only  a 
small  daily  supply  two  beds  would  be  ample — 
one  in  use,  the  other  coming  on  ;  but  if  to  be 
suocesaful  the  moisture  should  be  retainsd,  espe- 
cially in  summer.  To  do  this  we  make  a  clay 
bottom  before  placing  the  leaf-soil  in  position ; 
but,  at  the  same  time,  stagnant  water  must  be 
guarded  against,  as  the  roots  must  not  be  in 
such  water,  but  only  in  moist  soil.  In 
making  the  beds  they  should  be  on  a  slight 
incline  and  drained  at  the  lower  part. 

Watercress  grows  readily  from  seeds  and 
by  division  or  cuttings.  Seed  sown  in  fine  soil 
and  kept  damp  soon  results  in  small  tufts,  which 
must  be  planted  out  in  the  beds.  These  in  time 
may  be  divided  or  increased  by  the  strong  growths 
several  inches  long.  They  have  numerous  rootlets, 


and  these  if  made  firm  <>t  the  planting-time  grow 
away  quickly. 

Young  Beds  Formed  Late  in  August  or 
September 
will  give  a  winter  supply,  but  it  may  be  necessary 
to  cover  them  with  frames  in  severe  weather. 
What  is  required  is  strong  growth  before 
November.  When  this  ia  cut  over  it  continues 
to  yield  in  the  winter  in  mild  weather  if  given 
frame  protection.  The  beda  from  April  to 
September  are  watered  overhead  twice  a  day 
with  a  fine-rosed  water-pot.  Rain-water  is  used 
if  possible,  but  should  the  plants  be  at  all  sodden 
or  a  bad  colour,  keep  them  on  the  dry  side  or 
replant  in  new  beds.  It  is  well  to  make  new 
beds ;  often  the  old  sites  may  he  used,  but  new 
rooting  material  should  be  added  and  fresh 
plants.  Old  beds  when  much  cut  over  sre  not 
worth  keeping,  as  the  growths  get  poor.  For  an 
early  spring  supply  we  have  always  obtained  new 
stock  from  seed  ;  but  at  times  with  an  increaaed 
demand  strong  plants  or  cuttings  are  obtained 
from  a  stream  and  divided.  Much  depends  upon 
the  quantities  required  for  winter  supplies. 
Excellent  Watercress  has  been  grown  in 

Boxes  or  Tubs 
by  sowing  seed  in  October  and  growing  the  seed- 
lings in  a  cold  house.  Sow  the  seed  in  pans  in  a 
temperature  of  55°  to  60°,  and  prick  out  the 
seedlings  into  boxes  when  large  enough  to  handle ; 
then  grow  them  in  the  shade  in  light  soil  and 
damp  overhead  as  required. 

There  are  other  ways  of  culture,  such  as  grow- 
ing in  a  shallow  stream  if  this  ia  available,  but  for 
winter  uae  other  means  must  be  taken.  Few  plants 
are  more  easily  cultivated.  We  have  sown  broad- 
oast  in  cold  frames  and  thinned  out  the  plants, 
also  grown  a  quick  supply  in  small  pots  ;  but  to 
obtain  material  from  April  to  November  we  adopt 
the  bed  system  advised  above,  and  then  cover 
with  frames,  cloches,  or  hand-glasses  in  winter. 
This  plan  will  command  a  daily  supply  all  the 
year  round,  but  there  must  be  regular  plantings 
^a  bed  every  month — to  maintain  a  supply  of 
tender,  succulent  Watercress.  In  the  summer 
months  give  more  frequent  waterings  overhead, 
and  for  beds  declining  a  good  fertiliser  or  liquid 
manure  is  advisable.  Of  course,  those  who 
have  a 

Bdnnino  Stream  of  Clear  Water 
at  their  disposal  will  do  well  to  grow  Water- 
cress in  this.  It  will  most  likely  be  necessary  to 
clean  out  the  bottom,  and  if  at  all  muddy,  place 
a  good  layer  of  clean  sand  and  fine  shingle  for 
the  plants  to  grow  in,  as  Watercress  delights  in 
a  sandy  root-run.  The  water  should  preferably 
be  about  i  inches  deep,  and  to  maintain  it  at 
about  this  depth  all  along  the  stream  it  may  be 


406 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[August  21,  1909. 


necessary  to  place  barriers  at  about  6  feet 
intervals,  these  being  formed  of  thick  planks 
placed  on  edge,  or  even  thick  poles,  where  these 
are  obtainable.  In  addition  to  maintaining  the 
water  in  each  section  thus  formed  at  a  uniform 
depth,  these  barriers  prevent  the  Watercress 
plants  being  washed  away  at  those  times  when  the 
stream  is  swollen.  When  the  crop  has  to  be 
gathered  it  will  be  found  an  easy  matter  to 
place  a  plank  from  one  barrier  to  another,  and 
this  will  form  a  sort  of  platform  on  which  the 
grower  can  stand.  A  stream  dealt  with  In  this 
way  can  be  planted  at  any  time,  but  preferably 
in  autumn  or  spring. 


NOTES   OF   THE   WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

August  21 .  — Keighley  Horticultural  and  Paxton 
Society's  Show. 

August  24. — Rothesay  Horticultural  Society's 
Show. 

Hoptleultural    Trades    Associa- 
tion's annual    meeting.— The   nursery 
men's  congress  is  now  a  well-established  affair, 
this  being    the   tenth   annual    meeting   of    the 
association,  but  none  of  the  previous  meetings 
has  approached  in  pleasure  and  interest  the  one 
just  concluded  in   Belfast.      The   meeting   was 
favoured    by    three    days    of    perfect    summer 
weather,  which,  of  course,  added  immensely  to 
the  pleasure  of  the  excursions,  and  at  the  same 
time  enabled  the  party  to  see  the  famous  Belfast 
Roses  at  their  best.     Everyone  is  familiar  with 
Irish  Roses,  but  many,  even  of  those  in  the  trade, 
were  not  aware  of  the  immense  extent  to  which 
the  industry  of  raising  new  varieties  has  developed 
in  this  neighbourhood.      Some  idea  of  this  may 
be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  three  firms,  viz. , 
Messrs.    Alex.     Dickson,    Hugh     Dickson    and 
McGredy  and  Son  have  this  season  each  some 
40,000  plants  out  for  trial,  and  one  of  them  last 
year  burnt  a  batch  of  rejected  seedlings  which 
covered  several  acres,  and  at  the  lowest  whole- 
sale rate  for  ordinary  varieties  would  have  been 
worth  £300.    Many  of  the  novelties  seen  are  still 
unnamed,  so  that  no  useful  purpose  would  be 
served  by  detailed  descriptions,  but  it  is  a  plea- 
sure to  record  that  the  raisers  have  broken  away 
from  the  rather  monotonous  series  of  blush  and 
cream  flowers  we  have   been   receiving  of  late 
years  and  have  some  glorious  crimsons,  yellows 
and  mixed  orange  and  pink  shades  which  will 
make  a  sensation  in  the  near  future.  The  associa 
tion  spent  a  day  at  Castlewellan,  where  the  late 
Earl    Annesley    formed    a    garden    unique    for 
the  extent  and  rarity  of  its  collection  of  flowering 
and  other  shrubs  and  the  marvellous  beauty  of 
its  surroundings.    Mr.  Smith's  nursery  at  Newry 
was  also  a  revelation  to  many  of  the  visitors, 
both  from  its  picturesque  situation  on  the  moun- 
tain side  and  its  wonderful  collection  of  plants 
and  shrubs,  which  probably  for  extent  and  rarity 
is  unequalled  in  any  nursery  in  Europe.      The 
evening  meetings  were  passed  in  routine  business 
(the  election  of  oflBoers,  &e. )  and  the  discussion  of 
matters  of  trade  interest,  such  as  the  effect  of 
the  proposed  new  land  taxes  upon  nurserymen 
and  seedsmen.     These,  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to 
add,  are,  owing  to  the  position  of  most  nurseries 
in  the  suburbs  of  the  larger  towns,  a  matter  of 
most  serious  concern.     The  gathering  was  a  most 
instructive  and  pleasant  affair,  and  was  made 
doubly   enjoyable    by  the   hearty  welcome   and 
generous  hospitality  which  met  us  at  every  turn. 
— Charlbs  E.  Pearson,  Hon.  Stcretary. 

Flowers  at  the  Zooloiflcal 
Gardens. — These  famous  gardens,  situated  on 
the  north  side  of  Regent's  Park,  are  probably 
known  to  most  people  as  the  home  of  a  wonder- 
ful collection  of  animal-life,  and  so  absorbed  are 
visitors  in  this  that  the  many  floral  beauties  j. 


be  found  there  are  usually  overlooked.  For 
many  years  past  Celosias  have  been  grown  on  a 
very  extensive  scale  for  bedding  purposes,  and 
though  the  present  summer  has  not  been  at  all 
favourable  for  these  plants,  some  excellent 
examples  may  be  seen  in  the  beds  at  the  present 
time.  We  recently  spent  a  pleasant  hour  or  two 
in  these  gardens  with  the  able  head-gardener, 
Mr.  Young,  and  were  greatly  charmed  with 
much  that  we  saw.  The  bedding  is  in  most 
instances  of  a  very  high  character,  the  brilliant 
colour-schemes  being  well  conceived  and  carried 
out.  In  front  of  the  saloon  Roses  were  flowering 
in  profusion,  these  being  chiefly  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals,  Gladioli  being  planted  between  the 
bushes.  These  were  just  coming  into  bloom,  and 
WH  noticed  several  of  more  than  usual  merit 
among  some  of  Groffs'  hybrids.  In  close 
proximity  is  a  very  beautiful  and  well-stocked 
herbaceous  border  that  reminded  us  forcibly  of  a 
country  garden,  and  it  was  difficult  to  realise 
that  we  were  still  in  the  great  metropolis. 
Seedling  Carnations  were  used  freely  in  some  of 
the  beds,  and  these  were  flowering  in  a  remark- 
ably free  manner.  Near  the  lion-house  we  were 
much  pleased  with  a  large  bed  of  pink  Hydrangeas, 
with  standards  of  golden-leaved  Privet  towering 
above  them,  the  effect  being  simple  but  good.  On 
the  opposite  side  was  a  real  old  country  border, 
freely  planted  with  Rambler  Roses,  Fig-leaved 
and  other  Hollyhocks,  Erigerons,  Gladioli, 
Tobacco  and  other  plants,  the  result  being  a 
mass  of  simple  but  attractive  beauty.  In  front 
of  the  bear-dens  and  along  towards  the  monkey- 
houses  the  bedding  is  very  effective  indeed,  an 
arrangement  that  is  particularly  striking  being 
carried  out  with  white  Violas  as  a  groundwork, 
dot  plants  of  bright  crimson  Celosias  being  freely 
employed,  the  whole  being  edged  with  golden- 
leaved  Fuchsias  and  Alyssum  maritimum.  Vases 
of  flowers  are  also  of  high  quality,  an  arrange- 
ment in  front  of  the  Fellows'  tea-house  being  a 
good  representation  of  a  shower  bouquet.  In  the 
reserve  garden,  but  in  full  view  of  the  public, 
we  were  rather  surprised  to  find  an  excellent 
row  of  Sweet  Peas,  the  flowers  giving  forth  their 
delightful  fragrance  to  the  enjoyment  of  many 
visitors.  These  gardens  during  the  next  few 
weeks  will  be  quite  worth  a  visit  for  the  sake  of 
the  flowers  alone,  and  we  congratulate  Mr. 
Young  on  the  success  obtained  under  trying 
climatic  conditions. 
A  gathering^  of  Fern  enthusiasts. 

The  eighteenth  annual  meeting  of  the  British 
Pteridologioal  Society  was  held  at  Kendal  on 
August  2,  the  president,  Mr.  J.  J.  Smithies,  in 
the  chair.  The  accounts  disclosed  a  balance  in 
hand  of  £59  15s.  6d.  Forty-one  new  members 
were  elected.  It  was  decided  to  issue  to  the 
members  a  quarterly  publication  devoted  to  the 
objects  the  society  has  at  heart.  For  this  pur- 
pose a  publication  committee  was  appointed, 
with  Dr.  F.  W.  Stanefield,  Reading,  as  chairman 
and  Mr.  C.  T.  Druery,  F.L.S.,  V.M.H.,  as 
editor.  Mr.  Alexander  Cowan,  Penicuik, 
Midlothian,  was  elected  president  of  the  society 
for  the  year  ending  August,  1910.  Mr.  Druery 
sent  a  frond  of  his  new  seedling  raised  from 
spores  discovered  by  Dr.  Stansfield  upon  Mr. 
Green's  plant  of  Polystiohum  aculeatum  pul- 
cherrimum  ;  it  is  a  great  advance  upon  the 
parent,  and  was  very  much  and  deservedly 
admired.  Mr.  Cowan  exhibited  a  frond  of  his 
seedling  Asplenium  Filix-fcemina  setigerum  con- 
gestum.  The  meeting  was  the  best  the  society 
has  had  for  some  years.  It  was  decided  to  hold 
the  next  meeting  at  Moffat  on  August  Bank 
Holiday,  1910. 

Front  gardens  at  Klngrston-on- 
Thames. — Some  ten  years  ago  the  Kingston 
Town  Council  conceived  the  idea  of  offering 
prizes  for  the  best-kept  front  gardens  and  house- 
fronts  in  different  sections  of  the  borough,  and 
since  that  time  the  judging  of  these  has  been  an 
annual  event  keenly  looked  forward  to  by  the 
residents.  Only  those  houses  that  are  not  rated 
over  £20  are  eligible,  the  idea  being  to  induce 


the  working  classes  to  take  an  interest  in  beauti- 
fying the  fronts  of  their  cottages.  In  company 
with  Mr.  A.  Dean,  V.M.H.,  who  has  from  the 
first  taken  a  keen  and  active  interest  in  the 
movement,  and  who  acts  as  one  of  the  judges, 
we  had  the  pleasure  last  week  of  inspecting 
those  gardens  which  have  this  year  secured 
prizes,  and  were  much  surprised  with  the  really 
wonderful  results  which  have  been  obtained 
under  exceedingly  difiioult  and  trying  circum- 
stances. The  extraordinary  variety  seen  in 
these  small  patches  was  a  feature  of  all  the 
gardens  or  house-fronts,  and  the  tremendous 
amount  of  work  entailed  in  planting  and 
tending  the  flowers  can  only  be  explained  by  the 
grower  possessing  a  very  deeply  rooted  love  of 
gardening.  In  making  a  tour  of  these  prize 
gardens  we  were  able  to  compare  them ,  in  some 
cases,  with  others  alongside  them  that  are  more 
or  less  neglected,  and  the  transformation  effected 
by  this  judicious  use  of  beautiful  flowers  was 
really  wonderful.  This  movement  is  a  most 
praiseworthy  one,  and  might  with  great  advan- 
tage to  the  community  be  adopted  by  every  town 
in  the  country.  School  gardens  have  for  some 
time  been  an  important  feature  at  Kingston,  and 
the  splendid  Canbury  gardens  and  parade, 
alongside  Father  Thames,  are  now  very  beautiful 
indeed,  and  we  think  residents  owe  a  large  debt 
of  gratitude  to  those  who  are  responsible  for  the 
creation  and  upkeep  of  these  charming  places. 


GORRESPONDENOE. 

(The.  Editor  it  not  responsible  for  the   opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

Floral  decorations  at  London 
stations. — I  do  not  know  now  whether  The 
Garden  has  recorded  the  fact  that  the  District 
Railway  are  decorating  some  of  their  stations 
with  flowers  ;  Earl's  Court  Station,  for  one,  is 
being  decorated  with  hanging  baskets  of 
Geraniums  and  other  plants.  TThere  are  a  dozen 
at  the  Exhibition  stairs  of  the  platforms  and 
some  at  the  other  end.  This  decoration  of  town 
stations  is  a  movement  that  should  be  encouraged 
in  every  way.  I  suppose  Aspidistras  would  even 
thrivein  the  tube  stations.  [Query. — Ed.]  When 
I  was  in  Newcastle  some  ten  years  ago  that 
station  and  others — Tynemouth,  I  remember — 
were  decorated  with  flowering  and  other  plants. 
Why  London  should  have  waited  so  long  is  a 
mystery.  I  believe  the  manager  of  the  District 
Railway,  who  is  introducing  this  floral  decora- 
tion, comes  from  a  northern  railway.  —  W. 
Frank. 

Ostrowskla  magrnlflca.  —  When 
properly  grown  this  is  one  of  the  most  striking 
herbaceous  plants  in  cultivation,  not  only  on 
account  of  the  large,  Platycodon,  bell-shaped 
flowers,  but  also  from  its  various  beautiful  tints 
ranging  from  white  to  purple.  I  have  had  this 
plant  in  my  garden  for  some  years,  and  experi- 
ence teaches  me  that  the  better  the  plant  is 
ripened  in  the  autumn,  the  greater  the  effect 
the  following  year.  My  plants  are  grown  and 
flowered  in  the  open  among  Heaths.  Last  year, 
immediately  after  flowering,  I  covered  one  plant 
with  a  side-light,  which  was  not  removed  until 
the  early  spring,  and  I  find  that  this  plant  is  far 
more  vigorous  and  gives  better  results  this  year 
than  any  of  the  others.  The  effect  of  using  the 
side-light,  of  course,  was  to  ripen  and  keep  the 
roots  dry  during  the  winter.  I  send  you  various 
blooms,  and  have  marked  those  of  the  plant 
which  received  this  special  treatment.  You  will 
see  that  they  are  finer  and  larger  than  any  of 
the  others.  [Yes.  — Ed.  ].  — John  McWatt,  More- 
lands,  Duns. 

In  a  County  Down  p^arden.— Strong 
sunshine  has  come  at  last,  ripening  the  Melons 
in  frames  and  putting  the  purple  red  ripeness 
into  the  cheeks  of  the  Gooseberries.  The  Straw- 
berries are  all  over  ;  they  were  very  plenti  ful  in 
many  gardens  here  this  year,  but  a  mistake  in 


August  21,1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


407 


their  cultivation  made  them  soaroe  with  us. 
The  fact  is  they  have  been  grown  too  long  on  the 
one  bank.  It  must  now  get  a  rest  and  be  cropped 
with  vegetables  for  a  time.  Loganberries  gave  a 
grand  crop,  and  they  do  well  mixed  with  Rasp- 
berries as  a  preserve.  Red  Currants  made  a 
fine  show,  their  careful  pruning  giving  a  good 
crop  ;  but  Black  Currants  are  scarce  here  owing 
to  the  Government  regulations  regarding  the 
extinction  of  the  mite.  In  the  hardy  border  the 
Inulas,  Gaillardias,  Funkias,  Pyrethruma  and 
Alstrcemerias  have  been  very  conspicuous  ;  and 
Jerusalem  Sage  flourishes  like  a  Nettle  in  a  stack- 
yard. Among  other  things  worth  growing  are 
the  Buddleia  and  Saintfoin,  also  a  pretty  variety 
of  the  Periwinkle  with  small  golden  flowers. 
I  see  also  that  Vitis  Coignetiaj  is  flourishing. — 
Walter  Smyth,  Holywood. 
Hoses    in     a     North     London 

garden. — The  bed  of  Roses  in  the  front  of 
Che  illustration  is  Caroline  Testout,  that  growing 
up  the  pillar  is  Tea  Rambler,  while  in  the  back- 
ground is  a  good  plant  of  that  delightful  trailer 
Gardenia.  It  is  planted  in  the  slope  of  the 
terrace  leading  into  the  Rose  garden  and  extends 
right  and  left,  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  The 
standards  and  dwarfs  on  the  left  are  Ulrich 
Brunner,  Hugh  Dickson,  Mrs.  J.  Laing  and  Mrs. 
S.  Crawford.  By  the  steps  near  the  door  is  to 
be  seen  a  specimen  of  the  Gam  Cistus,  briefly 
referred  to  on  page  359  of  The  Garden  for 
July  24.  The  garden  is  at  Ken  View,  High- 
gate.— C.  T. 

Bpltlsh-ralsed  Roses.— I  feel  sure 
that,  besides  myself,  many  readers  would  appre- 
ciate a  list  of  really  British-raised  Roses.  It 
would  be  a  tribute  also  to  our  British  nurserymen 
and  amateurs,  who  have  accomplished  so  much  in 
recent  years  in  the  way  of  hybridising.  Here  are 
the  names  of  a  few  noteworthy  sorts  that  occur 
to  my  mind  :  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Mildred  Grant, 
William  Shean,  Juliet,  Ariel,  Queen  of  Spain, 
Cleopatra,  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  Dean  Hole, 
Muriel  Grahame,  Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince,  Hugh 
Dickson,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Her  Majesty,  Prince 
Arthur,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Mrs.  R.  6.  Sharman 
Crawford,  Margaret  Dickson,  C.  J.  Grahame, 
J.  B.  Clark,  Lidy  Ashtown,  Ben  Cant,  Medea, 
Sulphurea,  Corallina,  the  Bourbon,  Mrs.  Paul, 
Betty,  Beauty  of  Waltham  and  Duchess  of 
Bedford.- C. 


LARKSPURS     AT     ENFIELD. 


M 


■R.  AMOS  PERRY  of  the  Hardy 
Plant  Farms,  Enrield,  is  known  the 
world  over  for  his  whole-hearted 
and  lifelong  devotion  to  hardy 
plants,  and,  indeed,  it  would  be 
an  impossible  thing  to-day  to  find 
anyone  so  full  of  incident,  lerainiscence  and 
enthusiasm  for  the  flowers  of  his  choice. 
Vigorous  of  mind  and  body,  though  naturally  in 
the  latter  a  little  less  so  than  of  yore,  and 
equipped  with  that  fulness  of  knowledge  that  a 
litelong  experience  alone  can  bring,  Mr.  Perry 
may  safely  be  regarded  as  a  sort  of  unique 
personality  to-day,  when  hardy  plants  play  so 
important  a  part  in  the  decoration  of  our 
gardens,  aa  well  as  the  leading  exhibitions  all 
over  the  land.  Time  was,  however — and  Mr. 
Perry  is  not  unmindful  of  the  same — when  hardy 
plants  were  rarely,  if  ever,  seen  at  a  provincial 
show,  and  when,  even  in  the  leading  London 
exhibitions,  two  or  three  dozen  in  pots  con- 
stituted a  more  or  less  fragmentary  representa- 
tive display  of  the  plants,  and  for  which  ro»m 
was  tardily  found  and  with  not  illeoncealeil 
grace. 

Our  special  mission  to  Enfield  on  this  occasion, 
however,  was  not  the  historical  aide  of  the 
subject,  but  to  have  a  look  at  one  item  or  one 
group  of  a  stupendous  programme,  and  th.it  item 
the  Larkspurs  or  Delphiniums,  which  are  so 
great  a  feature  in  these  nurseries,  and  which 
probably    display   as     much    of     progress    and 


improvement,  both  of  flower  and  spike,  as  it  is 
possible  to  conceive.  Stature  in  the  days  of 
small  flowers  was  ever  a  strong  point  of  the 
plants,  while  to  this  to-day  is  added  giant 
flowers  and  bold  spikes  that  compel  admiration 
at  once.  Nor  do  the  improvements  end  here,  for 
we  may  look  at  brilliant  shades  of  blue,  light  and 
dark,  of  every  conceivable  shade,  well  set  upon 
finely  built  spikes  that  render  the  plants 
indispensable  to  every  garden.  What  we  saw  at 
Enfield  in  the  heyday  and  beauty  of  the 
flowering  of  the  Larkspur,  apart  from  the 
brilliant  spectacle  afforded  by  the  stocked  acres 
and  many  thousands  of  plants,  is  possible  in 
every  garden  where  a  well-dug  border  or  bed  is 
available  for  the  plants. 

Those  at  Enfield  are  growing  upon  land  that 
a  year  or  two  back  was  either  field  or  wood- 
land ;  hence  the  soil  is  not  specially  adapted  to 
the  group  under  notice.  That  it  will  respond  to 
generous  treatment  and  that  the  plants  will 
presently  receive  the  fuller  benefits  therefrom 
there  is  no  doubt.  For  the  presest,  however, 
the  plants  are  luxuriating  in  maiden  soil,  and 


is  unknown  at  Enfield  ;  indeed,  the  task  would 
be  an  impossible  one  on  so  huge  a  scale.  More- 
over, the  plants  are  valued  for  stock,  and  are 
grown  in  the  moat  natural  manner  possible. 
What  are  distinctly  interesting  to  see  are  the 
hybrid  forms  of  D.  Belladonna,  the  type  for  a 
long  period  of  years  never  having  borne  a  fertile 
seed.  Quite  recently,  however,  a  number  of 
forms  have  appeared  bearing  marked  affinity  to 
the  original,  and  which  in  turn  are  calculated  to 
produce  a  new  and  dwarf  race  of  theae  plants. 
During  recent  years,  too,  developments  have 
been  apparent  in  the  white  and  aulphur  coloured 
aections,  and  while  these  do  not  appeal  so 
strongly  to  some  as  do  the  blue-flowered  varieties, 
they  are  certainly  of  interest  and  merit,  and  are 
unmistakably  epoch-making.  If  in  Mr.  Perry's 
own  words  his  desire  has  been  "to  make  liis 
collection  of  these  the  fineat  in  the  world,"  his 
teeming  acrea  of  the  plants  must  indeed  be  very 
gratifying  towards  such  an  achievement.  One 
thing  we  can  say,  that,  with  nearly  forty  years' 
experience  of  this  race  of  plants,  we  have  seen 
nothing  to  approach  it. 


ROSES    IN    A    NORTH    LONDON    CARDEN. 


the  beds  of  plants,  tier  above  tier  aa  it  were,  on  a 
sunny  slope  make  a  picture  of  supreme  beauty 
and  afford  a  least  of  colour  rarely,  if  ever,  before 
seen  in  any  one  group  of  plants. 

Those  of  our  readera  who  have  aeen  the  huge 
banka  of  cut  Delphiniums  at  the  leading  London 
shows,  e.g.,  Holland  Park  and  Vincent  Square, 
must  of  necessity  realise  that  this  fine  group  of 
flowering  plants  is  one  of  the  leading  features  of 
theae  nuraeries ;  and,  indeed,  this  is  the  fact. 
Not  content  with  the  raising  of  seedlings  at 
home,  Mr.  Perry  has  scoured  the  Continent  for 
anything  of  merit,  and  to  such  an  extent  that  his 
collection  to-day  is  probably  unique,  scores  of 
the  finest  varieties  each  being  represented  by 
hundreds  of  plants.  There  is  no  attempt  here  at 
the  mere  creation  of  varieties  to  produce  a  for- 
midable list,  but  rather  by  weeding  and  aelection 
to  reduce  such  a  list  to  the  narrowest  limit  in 
face  of  the  demand  and  a  great  variety  of  tastes. 
Nor  is  there  any  attempt  at  special  culture,  quite 
the  bulk  of  the  exhibited  spikes  of  the  year  having 
been  taken  from  yearling  plants  grown  in  the 
usual  way  in  nursery  beds. 

Feeding  or  gorging  the  plants  with  animal  or 
artificial  manures  for  the  purposes  of  exhibiting 


It  is  in  these  circumstances  that  we  do  not 
propose  to  give  readers  a  long  list  of  varieties, 
though  a  few  select  aorta  may  not  be  out  of 
place.  Of  these  we  take  Her  Majesty,  soft  rose 
and  Cambridge  blue  ;  Duke  of  Connaught,  rich 
Oxford  blue,  bold  white  eye ;  Maggie  Perry, 
azure  blue ;  Lilacina,  clear  lilac,  said  to  be  the 
largest  yet  raised  ;  Carolina,  clear  light  blue 
with  conspicuous  white  centre  ;  Antigone,  ultra- 
marine blue  and  violet,  a  novelty  of  unusual 
merit ;  Perfection,  rich  aky  blue  ;  Persimmon, 
lovely  sky  blue ;  Queen  Wilhelmina,  aoft 
lavender,  flushed  rose,  white  eye,  a  grand  thing ; 
and  Masterpiece,  rich  gentian  blue  with  whits 
eye,  moat  telling.  The  above  are  a  few 
of  the  gems  among  single-flowered  varieties, 
while  a  few  doubles  should  include  I>anube,  La 
France,  Amos  Perry,  Candidat  (one  of  the  very 
best),  Pedro  Hamel,  David,  King  of  Del- 
phiniums, Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  Sir  George 
Newnes  (a  great  favourite  with  gentian  blue 
flowers)  and  Perry's  Favourite,  which  is  of  a 
rich  cornflower  blue.  These  are,  of  course,  but 
a  fragment  of  the  whole,  though,  if  we  mistake 
not,  they  are  sure  to  give  satisfaction  to  every 
lover  of  the  flower. 


408 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[August  21,  1909. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

STRAWBERRIES    FOR    LATE 
DISTRICTS. 

THE  Strawberry  may  now  be  had  in 
endless  variety,  and,  needless  to  say, 
there  are  but  few  of  these  that  will 
give  entire  satisfaction  under  all 
conditions  of  climate, 
soil  and  exposure. 
During  many  years'  residence  in 
a  rather  high,  late  locality  I  haie 
taken  a  good  deal  of  interest  in 
the  selection  of  varieties  to  suit 
our  requirements,  and  although 
still  giving  a  trial  at  times  to  new 
sorts,  I  have  now  secured  those 
that  give  very  satisfactory  returns 
each  season,  let  it  be  good  or  bad. 
J.tJThat  almost  universal  favourite, 
Royal  Sovereign,  I  am  about  to 
discard  in  disgust,  as  I  have  had 
much  disappointment  with  it.  It 
thrives  and  fruits  all  right,  but 
it  is  so  easily  damaged  by  wet 
weather  that  not  more  than  about 
a  third  of  the  crop  is  fit  to  pick. 
It  rote  even  before  colouring,  so 
that  one  can  do  nothing  with  it. 
The  main  reason  for  failure  with 
this  variety  lies  in  the  fact  that, 
our  soil  being  very  strong  and 
moist,  the  plants  make  far  too 
strong  foliage,  and  so  prevent  the 
sun  and  air  from  reaching  the 
fruits.  Until  two  years  ago  I 
could  find  no  satisfactory  substi- 
tute, and  so  continued  to  cultivate 
it  notwithstanding  its  serious 
faults  ;  but  now  I  can  safely  do 
nwav  with  this  variety,  as 
Laxton's  Leader  ripens  here  quite 
as  early,  gives  twice  the  crop  and 
is  also  of  excellent  quality.  The 
fruits  may  not  be  quite  so  nicely 
shaped,  as  they  are  a  little  rough 
in  outline,  but  they  are  of  a  fine 
uniform  dark  crimson  colour,  with 
good  flavour ;  and,  what  is  of 
very  great  importance  where  large 
quantities  of  dessert  fruits  are  in 
demand,  they  stand  wet  remark- 
ably well.  The  fruit-trusses  are 
supported  on  very  stout  stalks,, 
and  so  the  fruits  rest  but  lightly 
on  the  mulching,  and  rotting  is 
less  likely  to  take  place.  The 
plants  are  quite  vigorous,  but  dwarf,  and,  what 
is  of  great  importance  to  many  growers,  the 
life  of  the  plant  is  much  longer  than  that  of 
Royal  Sovereign.  On  August  .3  I  was  picking 
beautiful  fruits,  and  plenty  of  them,  from  plants 
carrying  their  third  crop.  I  intend,  as  an 
experiment,  to  try  them  yet  another  season,  and 
hope  to  report  results  a  year  hence. 

Duke  of  Edinburgh,  a  much  older  variety, 
follows  Leader,  and  is  one  of  the  finest-looking 
dessert  Strawberries  in  cultivation  when  well 
grown.  It  requires  very  generous  treatment, 
but  lasts  well  when  so  treated.  It  is  dwarf  in 
habit  and  gives  a  good  crop. 

President  is  so  much  given  to  mildew  in  some 
seasons  that  I  have  had  to  dispense  with  it. 
Sir  J.  Paxton  gives  fine  fruit,  but  grows  so  tall 
and  the  crop  is  so  light  that  it,  too,  has  had  to 
go.  For  preserving,  nothing  can  come  near 
Garibaldi  ;  it  carries  an  extraordinary  crop,  and 
the  first  pickings  are  quite  fit  for  table.  It  is  a 
delicious  Strawberry,  and  many  gardeners  in  this 
looility  grow  little  else.  Laxton's  Noble,  if  it 
only  had  a  little  more  flavour,  would  be  hard  to 
beat,  as  it  carries  very  heavy  crops  of  handsome, 
round  fruit,  and  the  plants  are  vigorous  and 
easily  grown.  For  late  work  the  old  Elton  Pine 
is  the  only  reliable  sort  here,  and  does  really 
■well, 


I  am  giving  Countess  and  Laxton's  Fillbasket 
a  trial,  but  they  will  not  fruit  till  next  year. 
Might  I  be  allowed  to  give  a  hint  to  the  various 
able  writers  who  contribute  to  the  pages  of  The 
Garden  and  who  give  only  a  noyn  de  plume  or 
initials.  Like  numerous  other  readers,  I  find 
most  useful  and  instructive  papers  each  week, 
but  as  there  is  seldom  any  mention  made  of  the 
locality  from  which   the    notes  come,  there  is 


THE    NEW   NARCISSUS   ELFRIDA   PEARSON.     (Much- reduced.     See  page  l,":i.) 


often  little  chance  of  profiting  from  the  advice 
given.  If  each  writer  would  but  add  the 
name  of  his  county  after  his  pen  name,  it  would 
greatly  enhance  the  value  of  such  advice. 

C.  Blair. 
Preston  Roii^e  Gardens,  Linlithgow. 


FRUIT  NjTES. 
Raspberries  after  Fruiting.  —  A  common 
error  in  the  cultivation  of  Raspberries  is  to  leave 
the  canes  which  have  produced  the  season's  crop 
on  the  plants  until  the  ordinary  winter  pruning 
of  fruit  trees.  This  should  never  be  the  case. 
It  is  absolutely  certain  that  they  will  never  yield 
more  than  one  crop,  and  the  sooner,  therefore, 
after  this  has  been  harvested  that  the  stems  are 
cut  clean  out  the  better.  It  must  always  be 
borne  in  mind  that  not  only  will  they  not  give 
the  grower  any  further  return,  but  that  so  long 
as  they  continue  on  the  stools  they  will  be  doing 
direct  harm,  since  light,  air  and  ■  sustenanea 
which  ought  to  be  going  into  the  canes  that  will 
bear  the  fruit  next  year  are  passing  into  the  old 
ones.  There  should  neither  be  half  measures  nor 
delay  in  their  removal  ;  cut  them  all  out  right 
from  the  base  and  take  them  away  to  the  rubbish - 
heap,  or  save  the  best  of  them  for  use  as  stakes 
to  support  other  plants.     At  the  same  time  it  is 


excellent  practice  to  reduce  the  number  of  new 
shoots  to  five  or  six  at  a  stool,  unless  a  certain 
quantity  is  required  for  the  formation  of  fresh 
plantations,  when  these  must,  of  course,  be  per- 
mitted to  remain.  Upon  the  completion  of  this 
work  the  soil  should  be  loosened  above  the  roots, 
but  the  utmost  care  is  imperative,  as  this  plant 
is  essentially  a  surface  rooter,  and  to  dig  deeply 
will  inevitably  do  serious  injury  to  the  planta- 
^  tion.     This  done,  a  heavy  mulch- 

ing of  equal  proportions  of 
decomposed  leaf  -  mould  and 
sweet  stable  or  farmyard  manure 
must  be  applied  in  order  to 
provide  an  abundance  of  food 
for  the  plants. 

Summer  Pruning. — In  those 
instances  where  the  summer 
pruning  was  commenced  early 
it  will  now  be  wise  for  the 
cultivator  to  go  over  all  the 
trees  again,  closely  examining 
each  one  with  a  view  to  the 
immediate  removal  of  the  shoots 
that  will  almost  assuredly  have 
sprung  from  beneath  the  point 
at  which  the  pruning  or  pinching 
was  originally  done.  The  rule 
in  relation  to  them  should  be  to 
cut  back  to  two  leaves.  This 
will  aid  substantially  in 
strengthening  the  buds  below,  and 
the  prospects  of  a  superior  crop  in 
the  succeeding  year  will  thus  be 
decidedly  improved.  At  the  same 
time  any  foreright  shoots  that 
have  been  allowed  to  remain  up 
to  the  present  date  must  also 
be  cut  out  from  the  point  of 
origin,  since  they  can  never  be 
of  permanent  value  to  the  tree. 
Heavy  soakings  of  water,  and 
frequently  also  of  liquid  manure, 
will  do  good,  especially  in  the 
case  of  trees  growing  on  walls, 
and  which,  as  a  consequence  of 
the  position,  very  often  suffer 
from  dryness  at  the  roots. 

Outdoor  Vines.  —  Although 
these  will  yield  really  useful 
crops  of  fruit  when  they  are 
correctly  managed  and  growing 
in  favourable  positions,  it  is 
comparatively  rare  that  one 
sees  them  in  good  condition 
in  the  gardens  of  amateurs. 
Generally  speaking,  they  are 
allowed  to  become  tangled 
masses  of  useless  laterals,  and  because  they 
do  not  then  produce  satisfactory  bunches 
they  are  promptly  condemned  as  unsuitable 
for  outdoor  treatment.  If  they  are  repre- 
sented they  should  have  intelligent  atten- 
tion. At  the  present  time  it  is  impossible 
to  do  very  much  beyond  the  entire  removal  of 
growths  that  are  obviously  useless  and  the 
maintenance  of  an  ample  supply  of  water  at  the 
roots  to  assist  the  finishing  of  the  crop.  It  will 
almost  always  be  essential  to  supplement  the 
clear  water  with  liquid  manure,  especially  with 
old  Vines,  since  it  is  practically  certain  that  they 
will  long  ago  have  exhausted  the  soil  about  their 
roots  of  all  the  nutrient  matter  it  ever  contained. 
Encourage  the  plants  to  grow  well  and  they  will 
respond  generously. 

Watering  Strawberries.  —  Young  plants 
that  were  put  out  a  week  or  two  back  for  the 
formation  of  new  plantations  will  demand  regular 
attention  in  watering.  The  soil  is  nearly  always 
dry  in  August,  and  if  it  is  allowed  to  remain  so 
for  more  than  a  few  hours,  it  is  perfectly  certain 
that  the  plants  will  receive  a  check  from  which 
it  may  take  them  some  time  to  recover.  It  is 
also  necessary  to  use  the  hoe  frequently,  not  only 
to  arrest  the  waste  of  food,  but  also  to  prevent 
the  weeds,  which  grow  apace  in  late  summer, 
from  getting  established.  FRUiT-OKOWiiR. 


AUGUST  21,  1909.J 


THE    GARDEN. 


409 


THE     GREENHOUSE. 

NOTES    ON    OKCHIDS. 
The  Colombian  Section  of  Odontoglossum. 

IN  my  last  article  I  mentioned  Lseliaa  and 
Cattleyas  as  suitable  Orchids  for  the 
amateur  who  personally  attends  to  his 
collection  ;  but  this  week  I  suggest 
another  group,  viz.,  the  Odontoglossums 
whose  native  habitat  is  Colombia.  They 
include  some  of  the  showiest  members  of  the 
genus,  such  as  the  popular  and  well-known  0. 
orispum  (the  Alexandrian  Orchid),  with  its  host 
of  beautiful  varieties,  both  pure  white  and 
spotted— harryanum,  luteo-purpureum,  I'esca- 
torei,  triumphans  and  sceptrum  :  while  the 
hybrids  embrace  such  gems  of  the  Orchid 
world  as  Rolfeaj,  ardentissimum,  looehristi- 
ense,  harryano-crispum,  wilokeanum  and  the 
varied  andersonianum,  many  of  which  are 
produced  in  quantity  and  can  be  purchased  for 
a  moderate  sum.  For  many  years  the  only  kind 
of  house  considered  suitable  for  cool  Orchids  was 
one  with  a  north  aspect,  and  writers  in  general 
advocated  such  a  structure ;  but  now  we  find  that 
this  is  not  essential— in  fact,  some  present-day 
growers  say  any  aspect  but  a  north  one  I 
refer  readers  to  the  article  of  July  10  for  details 
conoerning  the  type  of  house  for  Orchids. 

During  the  winter  the  thermometer  should 
read  at  night  50°  Fahr.  and  at  midday  55°  Fahr., 
while  for  the  summer  months  the 
minimum  can  be  raised  5°  and  the 
maximum  kept  as  low  as  possible 
whenever  the  weather  is  hot. 
Blinds  will  be  necessary,  as 
Odontoglossums  are  shade-loving 
subjects,  and  I  find  blinds  made 
of  wooden  laths  are  preferable  to 
canvas,  as  they  are  better  for 
rolling  down  at  night  whenever 
it  is  cold  and  frosty.  Careful 
ventilation  is  the  keynote  ot  suc- 
cessful Orchid-growing,  particu- 
larly with  Odontoglossums,  or 
the  atmosphere  becomes  dry  and 
parched  when  no  good  results 
can  be  obtained.  Through  the 
greater  part  of  the  year  a  little 
air  both  top  and  bottom  may  be 
left  on  day  and  night,  the  only 
exceptions  being  during  extreme 
frost  and  when  fumigating  is 
being  done.  A  moist,  buoyant 
atmosphere  is  needed,  and  when- 
ever the  elements  warrant  the  use 
of  the  syringe,  a  light  spray 
overhead  may  be  given  with 
advantage. 

Where  a  quantity  of  Odonto- 
glossums are  cultivated,  an  occa- 
sional plant  will  need  repotting  at 
different  periods,   but    the  bulk 
should  be  taken  in  hand  the  latter 
end  of  August  or  early  in  Sep- 
tember, and  the  collection  must 
be  gone  over  again  in  February 
to  repot  any  that  were  not  ready 
in  the  autumn.   All  Orchids  ought 
to  be  repotted  when  root-action 
commences.      With    Odontoglos- 
sums   this  takes  place    directly 
the  new  growth  is  3  inches  or 
4  inches  high.     Having  selected 
one  that  needs  a  larger  receptacle 
or  top-dressing,  the  roots  are  examined  to  see 
if  they  are  alive  or  dead.     Where  they  are  in  a 
healthy  condition,  very  little  disturbance  will  be 
needed  beyond  cutting  away  some  of  the  back 
bulbs,  two,  or  at  the  most  three,  being  sufficient 
behind    each    growing    point.      It     sometimes 
happens  that    the    roots  are  decayed.      When 
such  is  the  case,  remove  the  old  soil  and  dead 
roots,  after  which  the  plant  is  placed  in  a  pot 
just  large  enough  to  allow   for  a  little  cempest 
and   cirefuUy   tended  till  it  is   re-established. 


When  top-dressing  the  surface  soil  is  picked  out 
and  replaced  with  new.  This  operation  is 
usually  done  when  the  top  compost  has  gone  sour 
while  the  plant  does  not  require  a  larger  pot. 

An  ideal  potting  mixture  is  made  up  as 
follows  :  Osmunda  or  Polypodium  fibre,  chopped 
sphagnum  moss,  fibrous  peat  and  partly  decayed 
Oak  leaves  in  equal  proportions,  with  a  sprinkling 
of  crushed  crocks  and  silver  sand  added.  The 
leaves  are  those  collected  last  autumn  and  stored 
in  a  dry  shed  and  now  rubbed  through  a  half- 
inch  sieve,  afterwards  using  a  finer  mesh  to 
extricate  any  dust,  which  will  leave  a  light, 
flaky  material  so  much  appreciated  by  the 
majority  of  Orchids.  Ordinary  flower-pots  are 
chosen  and  filled  one-fourth  of  their  depth  with 
drainage,  either  utilising  broken  potsherds  or 
peat  sticks  ;  if  the  latter,  they  must  be  thoroughly 
dried  to  prevent  the  appearance  of  fungus. 

After  being  disturbed  at  the  roots  only  keep 
the  surface  soil  just  moist  for  a  few  weeks,  but 
as  growth  advances  increase  the  supply  till  the 
pseudo-bulbs  are  fully  matured.  It  must,  how- 
ever, be  remembered  that  they  do  not  require 
a  resting  season  like  Calanthes,  although  the 
amount  of  water  necessary  after  the  completion 
of  growth  is  naturally  less. 

Imported  Odontoglossums  arrive  at  intervals 
in  their   thousands,  and   often   the   beginner   is 
tempted  to  purchase  a  few  first-hand.     The  best 
pieces  to  secure  are  those  with  dormant  eyes  and  \ 
plump    bulbs,    but   not   necessarily   the   largest 


A  PORTION   OF  THE  ROCK   GARDEN   AT   OHADDLEWOOD,    SOUTH   DEVON. 

specimens,  which  often  only  possess  one  lead. 
Directly  they  are  received  all  dead  bulbs  and 
decayed  parts  are  removed,  after  which  they 
should  be  thinly  laid  upon  a  layer  of  sphagnum 
till  growth  begins  and  new  roots  are  seen 
issuing  from  the  base.  At  this  stage  they  can 
be  potted  into  receptacles  just  large  enough 
to  comfortably  take  the  bulbs,  seeing  that  plenty 
of  drainage  is  employed  for  the  initial  potting. 
After  the  first  growth  more  root  space  will  be 
required.  Sentinel 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN. 

NARCISSUS  ELFRIDA  PEARSON. 

THE  type  of  Dafi'odil  of  which   Elfrida 
Pearson  is  a  very  beautiful  example  is, 
in  every  sense  of  the  word,  a  modern 
one.     If  we  look  through  the  old  illus- 
trated flower  books,  such  as  those  of 
De  Pass,  Gerard,  Hill  and  Sweet,  we 
will  find  nothing  like  it.     The  truth  is  that  until 
the  advent  of  Mme.   de  Graaff  and  Weardale 
Perfection  such  flowers  were  impossible.     It  is 
only    when     some    of    these    new    large    white 
trumpets    are     mated    with    some    of    the    old 
Leedsiis  that  we  get  as  a  result  this  new  giant 
race.    Mr.  Duncan  Pearson,  of  the  firm  of  Messrs. 
J.  R.  Pearson  and  Sons  of  Lowdham,  has  more  or 
less  made   a    speciality  of  this  particular  type, 
and  from  what  he  told  me,  and  from  what  I  saw 
when  I  visited  him   last  spring,   no   hybridiser 
with    as    small    an    amount   of  seed    can    have 
obtained  more  satisfactory  results.       In  his  case, 
Minnie   Hume    and  either   Mme.  de   Graaff  or 
Weardale  Perfection  are  the  parents.     From  the 
former  cross  he  obtained,  among  others,  Lowdham 
Beauty   (which,    it   may  be    remembered,   was 
singled  out  by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
deputation  at  Birmingham  for  an  award  of  merit), 
and  from  the  latter  Elfrida  Pearson.     A  glance 
at  the  illustration  on  page  408  will  show  the 
evenness     and    refinement    of    its    pure    white 
perianth  and  the  delicate  mould- 
ings of  the  pale  yellow  cup.     It 
is  a  large  flower,  measuring  about 
4i  inches  across.  At  present  there 
are  only  two  or  three   bulbs  in 
existence,  but  when  a  little  stock 
has  been  got  together  and  it  is  in- 
troduced into  commerce,  another 
flower  will  be  added  to  those  in 
the     front     rank    of    the    giant 
Leedsiis. 

Two  other  beautiful  varieties 
of  this  type  are  worthy  of  men- 
tion as  having  been  raised  by  Mr. 
Pearson,  viz.,  Capella  and  Mar- 
guerite Durand.  Capella,  although 
a  giant,  is  a  small  giant,  and  is 
distinguished  by  the  gracefully 
curved  rim  of  its  long  cup,  which 
opens  pale  yellow  and  becomes 
ivory  white  with  age.  The  flower 
of  Marguerite  Durand  has  the 
remarkable  property  of  opening  a 
creamy  white,  and  as  it  grows 
older  deepening  in  colour  until  it 
becomes  a  lovely  shade  of  pale 
yellow.  It  is  then  almost  a  self. 
The  segments  of  the  perianth  are 
broad  and  pointed,  and  the  cup 
deep  and  long.      Joseph  Jacob. 

AN  INTERESTING  ROCK 

GARDEN. 
The  garden  at  Chaddlewood,  the 
residence    of   Mr.   G.   S.   Soltan- 
Symons,  is   certainly  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  South  Devon, 
for  every  portion  of  it  has  been 
tended  with  the  utmost  care  for 
a  lengthened  period.     The  rock 
garden    is    the    owner's     special 
hobby,  every  stone  having  been 
placed  in  position  either  by  him- 
self or  under  his  immediate  supervision,  and  almost 
every  occupant  planted  by  his  own  hands.     Some 
of  the  rock  masses  are  very  fine  in  form,  and  afford 
sites  to  suit  the  varied  requirements  of  the  often 
too  fastidious  tenants.     It  is  not  merely  a  garden 
ot  alpine  plants,  for  numbers  of  shrubs,  perennials 
and  annuals  remarkable  for  their  beauty  of  form 
or  flower  have  been  introduced  with  the  happiest 

results.  ^,    ,     J    ■  L 

From  the  main  rock  garden  a  path  leads  into  a 
recess  with  high  rock  sides,  which  is  devoted  to 


410 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[August  21,  1909. 


rare  Ferns,  Piimulas,  Phileaia  buxifoliaand  other 
shade-loviug  plants.  On  either  side  of  the 
entrance,  at  a  height  of  about  4  feet  from  the 
ground  level,  stand  two  splendid  specimens  of  the 
Japanese  Maple  (Acer  polymorphum  disseotum), 
the  one  pale  green  and  the  other  deep  crimson. 
These  have  been  planted  nearly  forty  years  and  are 
several  feet  in  diameter.  Erica  lusitanica,  better 
known  as  E.  oodonodes,  attains  a  height  of  10  feet, 
and  springs  up  profusely  from  self-sown  seed. 

Many  years  ago  Andro- 
sace  lanuginosa  was  one 
of  the  sightsof  the  garden, 
falling  over  the  rocks  in  a 
dense  sheet  for  a  height 
of  10  feet  and  fully  ,3  feet 
in  breadth.  Then  it  un- 
accountably died  out,  and 
for  several  years  it  could 
not  be  induced  to  live, 
but  now  has  been  again 
established.  There  is  also 
a  fine  breadth  of  Andro- 
sace  sarmentoea.  All  the 
best  species  of  Saxif  ragas, 
Seduras,  alpine  Pinks, 
Phloxes,  Aubrietias,  Cam- 
panulas and  other  peren- 
nial rock  plants  are  suc- 
cessfully grown ;  Palms 
and  Yuccas  are  seen  in 
the  background,  and  in 
the  spring  a  brilliant 
effect  is  produced  by 
numerous  bushesof  Azalea 
mollis,  sulphur,  yellow, 
orange  and  scarlet,  bloom- 
ing among  the  alpines. 
In  the  summer  the  large 
crimson  flowers  of  Lotus 
peliorhyncus  make  a 
bright  spot  of  colour. 

The  Rose  walk,  nearly 
100  yards  in  length,  with 
the  plants  trained  over- 
head on  iron  arches,  is  in 
July  a  dream  of  beauty, 
and  a  long  herbaceous 
border  has  lately  been 
constructed  beneath  this 
which  is  filled  with  good 
collections  of  the  best 
plants.  Shrubs  are  excel- 
lently grown  and  there 
are  fine  specimens  of  Tri- 
euspidaria  lanceolata  and 
Drimys  Winteri. 

W.  FiTZHERBERT. 


Engleheartii   varieties,   such  as  Incognita,  Gold  ,  standing  out  conspicuously  from  the  short  pale 
Eye,    Concord,    Dorothy   Pearson,   Astrardente,    yellow  ones  ;  lasts  well. 


Coreen  and  Egret,  would  give  readers  of  The 
(iARDEK  the  benefit  of  their  experience,  and  I 
feel  sure  the  Editor  would  open  his  columns  to 
such  communications.  [Yes. — Ed.]  I  am  very 
fond  of  their  great  large  eyes,  and  think  this 
new  type  of  flower  exceptionally  pleasing. 

As  I  wish  this  li.st  to  be  useful  to  those  about 
i  to  order  new  varieties,  I  have  limited  myself  to 


SOME  GOOD  DAF- 
FODILS TO  BUY 
NOW. 

In  making  out  this  list 
nf  some  of  the  newer 
Daffodils,  I  have  been 
mainly  influenced  by  their 
garden  usefulness.  Many  ,^  - 
of  the  red-cups  and  red- 
edged  varieties  look  very 
nice  on  the  show-table, 
but,  because  they  burn 
bskJly  in  the  sun,  are  not 
so  desirable  as  they  other- 
wise would  be  as  border 
plants.  This  will  explain 
why  comparatively  few  of 
them  are   included.      At 

present  I  am  very  shy  of  advising  anyone  to  buy 
many  of  the  large-eyed  Engleheartii.  My  experi- 
ence has  not  been  very  promising,  and  I  fear  I  am 
not  alone  in  this  respect.  I  was  about  to  give  a 
long  price  for  a  bulb  of  one  of  them  last  year ;  but 
when  I  ordered  it  the  dealer  most  nobly  wrote 
and  said,  "  I  do  not  advise  you  to  have  it ;  it  is 
a  mi6fy  gentleman."  I  think  it  would  be  most 
useful  information   if    those   who    have    grown 


a  guinea. 


flowers  whose  money  value  is  under 
and  I  have  put  the  approximate  price  at'ter  the 
name.    The  descriptions  are  short,  but  I  hope  they 
will  prove  a  sufficient  guide  to  a  good  selection. 

Alert  (6s.). — A  very  early  long  trumpet; 
trumpet  deep  yellow,  the  perianth  a  little  paler ; 
lasts  in  flower  a  long  time. 

Argent  (Is.) —A  very  distinct  new  type  of 
double    Daffodil,    long    creamy   white   segments 


Ariadne  {Is.  6d.). — A  beautiful  white  Leedsii 

with  a  large,  much-expanded,  saucer-shaped  cup. 

Blachwell  (Is.). — An   early  flowering   variety 

with  a  beautiful  orange  red  cup  which  stands  the 

sun  ;  perianth  yellow. 

Casamidra    (Is.     9d. ). — A    magnificent   Poet, 
remarkable    for    the     broad,    overlapping    seg- 
ments of  its  perianth  and  its  rather  small  red- 
rimmed    eye ;    a    robust 
grower. 

Gomus  (28.). — In  my 
opinion  a  Poet  second  to 
none,  rather  late  to  bloom. 
Its  Almond  -  shaped 
perianth  segments  are  of 
a  peculiar  solid  glistening 
white,  and  the  large  eye 
has  a  ribbon  edge  of  bril- 
liant red. 

Dorothy  E.  Wemyss 
(9d. ). — A  tall,  late-flower- 
ing variety  ;  it  has  a 
cream-coloured  perianth 
and  a  canary  yellow  cup 
margined  red ;  valuable 
for  succession. 

Diana  ('208. ).  — A  beau- 
tiful giant  Leedsii,  with 
a  large  diso-like  eye  of 
pale  yellow  and  a  large 
reflexed  white  perianth. 

Duke  of  Bedford 
(7s.  6d.). — A  fine  early 
bicolor  trumpet ;  immense 
flower;  grand  robust 
grower. 

Evangeline  (15s.).  —  A 
beautiful  plant  for  the 
garden,  as  its  flowers 
stand  up  so  well  about  the 
foliage.  It  is  a  bicolor 
Homespun  ;  no  higher 
praise  can  be  given  it 
than  this. 

Eyebright  (2s.  6d.). — 
This  flower  nearly  re- 
sembles the  Poetious 
section ;  the  bright  red 
margin  of  the  eye  is  very 
distinct. 

Firebrand  i28.). — A 
rather  small  flower  which 
is  noted  for  the  intense 
red  of  its  cup  ;  perianth 
pale  yellow.  It  stands 
the  sun  fairly  well. 

Hamlet  (5s.  Bd.). — A 
large,  long  trumpet 
variety  of  a  pleasing  shade 
of  soft  yellow  ;  a  hand- 
some flower. 

Homer  (2s.). — A  very 
good  Poet  with  an  ornatus- 
like  perianth  and  eye. 

Homespun  (208.).  —  A 
charming  flower  of  a 
uniform  clear  yellow  in 
the  cup  and  perianth  ;  it 
has  probably  received 
more  awards  of  merit  and 
premier  prizes  than  any 
other  variety  ;  it  is,  too, 
a  grand  garden  plant. 

Horace  (Is.  9d.). — A 
new  Poet  with  an  all-red 
eye ;  large  round  perianth. 
A  superb  long  trumpet  of 
massive  proportions  and  of  a  rich  deep  yellow 
colour  ;  unfortunately,  it  does  not  thrive  every- 
where, but  now  it  is  so  much  reduced  in  price 
is  well  worth  a  trial. 

Lady  Margaret  Boscawen  (15s.). — An  ideal 
garden  plant,  robust  in  growth,  lasting  in  flower 
and  striking  in  size ;  perianth  white ;  cup 
yellow  ;  specially  recommended. 


THE   NEW   YELLOW- 


GROUND   FANCY 


UARNATION  JUPITER. 


{yatural  6ize.    Sec  pa^jc  Ull) 


King  Alfred  (tis.  [ 


August  21,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


411 


Lucifer  (la.  6d.).— A  striking,  large-oupped 
variety,  not  a  very  tall  grower,  but  facile  princepa 
among  the  red  eups  because  of  its  lasting  pro- 
perties ;  perianth  white  and  starry. 

Monarch  (5s.). — A  beautiful,  refioed,  long- 
trumpet  variety  of  medium  height ;  remarkable 
for  its  form  and  substance ;  perianth  and  trumpet 
yellow. 

Outpost  (63.).— A  profuse  bloomer;  may  be 
described  as  an  early-flowering  Emperor,  blooming 
from  a  week  to  ten  days  before  that  variety. 

Torch  (2s.).— A  tall,  spidery -looking  variety; 
perianth  yellow,  with  the  segments  long  and 
twisted  ;  its  conspicuous  red  cup  stands  the  sun 
exceedingly  well.     Fine  in  clumps  in  the  border. 

White  Lady  (Is.  3d.).— A  charming  small- 
cupped  Leedsii,  strong-growing  and  free  ;  cup 
much  crinkled,  pale  canary  yellow  ;  perianth 
white  and  overlapping  ;    of  much  substance. 

White  Queen  (21s.).— This  may  be  described  as 
a  white  Sir  Watkin  ;  it  is  not  as  tall  a  grower  as 
the  size  of  the  flower  would  lead  anyone  to  expect. 
With  age  the  cup,  which  opens  pale  lemon,  goes 
quite  white  like  the  perianth  ;  very  beautiful. 

Weardale  Perfection  (Ss. ). — A  large  and  refined 
trumpet  variety  ;  the  perianth  ia  a  creamy  white 
and  the  trumpet  pale  yellow.  It  is  a  vigorous  and 
robust  grower.  Joseph  Jacob. 

CARNATION    JUPITER. 

This  is  a  very  distinct  and  handsome  yellow- 
ground  fancy  variety  of  much  merit,  the  ground 
colour  being  freely  marked  with  clear  rose  pink 
lines.  Aawill  beseenin theillustrationonpage410, 
the  flower  ia  of  good  form.  It  was  ahown  by  Mr. 
Charlea  Blick,  Warren  Nuraeries,  Hayea,  Kent, 
before  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  on  the 
3rd  inst. ,  when  it  received  an  award  of  merit. 


beautiful  pictures,  being  particularly  lovely  by 
moonlight.  To  speak  of  flowers  is,  however, 
incorrect,  as  the  true  flowers  of  the  tree  are  incon- 
spicuous, the  large,  pale  yellow  segments  that 
appear  to  form  the  blossoms  being  really  bracts. 

Its  English  name  of  Strawberry  Tree,  which  it 
shares  with  Arbutus  Unedo,  is  due  to  its  beauty 
when  bearing  its  crimson  fruits  in  profusion. 
Towards  the  end  of  October  these  begin  to  colour, 
and  are  often  borne  in  such  quantity  as  to  weigh 
down  the  branches.  The  largest  fruits  are  often 
as  much  as  from  4  inches  to  3  inches  in  circum- 
ference. A  tree  weighted  down  with  fruit  is  an 
exceedingly  pretty  sight  and  almost  rivala  its 
appearance  when  in  the  perfection  of  its  bloom. 
The  fruit,  if  undisturbed,  will  hang  until  after 
Christmas ;  but  in  some  seasons  and  localities  the 
birds  commence  to  attack  them  as  soon  as 
coloured,  and  completely  spoil  the  ornamental 
effect  of  the  trees  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

While  the  berries  still  hang  on  the  tree  the 
future  flowers  may  be  discerned,  the  size  of  Peas, 
studding  the  young  branchlets.  The  tree  is 
tender  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London  and  in 
the  North,  but  has  withstood  25°  of  frost  at 
Fota,  County  Cork,  with  comparative  immunity, 
and  in  the  pages  of  The  Garden  a  tree  thirty 
years  of  age  has  been  mentioned  as  growing  in 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

CORNUS     CAPITATA. 

(BeNTHAMIA  FBAGIFEBA.) 

SEEDS  of  this  tree  were  sent  to  Mr. 
Tremayne  of  Heligan  in  1825.  Seed- 
lings were  raised,  and  these  were 
placed  in  a  glass  house,  which  they 
soon  outgrew,  and  were  then  planted 
in  the  open.  After  about  twelve  years' 
growth  they  commenced  to  flower,  and  later  on 
produced  fruit  freely,  seed  being  distributed  to 
many  neighbouring  gardens.  Flowers  and  fruit 
were  sent  to  Kew,  and  the  authorities  decided 
that  the  tree  was  a  new  and  totally  unknown 
genus.  The  plant  was  awarded  a  silver  medal 
by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  1838,  and 
was  then  named  Benthamia  fragifera,  after  the 
secretary  of  the  society  at  that  time.  Many  of 
the  early  examples  are  still  at  Heligan,  and  these 
must  be  fully  45  feet  in  height.  The  tree  is 
universally  known  in  Devon  and  Cornwall  as 
Benthamia,  the  new  title  of  Cornus  capitata  not 
being  recognised.  In  Cornish  gardens  it  is  quite 
a  common  tree,  and  at  Menabilly  there  must  be 
hundreds. 

Where  afforded  ample  space  the  Benthamia 
forms  a  spreading  tree  with  the  branches 
sweeping  the  ground.  There  was  formerly  a 
fine  specimen  on  the  lawn  at  Enys,  which  was 
illustrated  in  The  Garden  of  September  15, 
1906  ;  but  this  has,  unfortunately,  since  been  cut 
down.  This  was  one  of  the  finest  isolated  speci- 
mens known,  for  as  a  rule  the  trees  are  planted 
in  woods,  where  they  have  no  chance  of  assuming 
their  rightful  proportions.  The  best  example 
probably  now  in  existence  in  the  British  Isles  is 
one  on  Lord  Barrymore's  estate  at. Fota,  County 
Cork,  Ireland.  This  noble  tree  is  about  35  feet  in 
height  and  haa  a  branch-spread  of  63  feet,  and 
when  smothered  in  flowers  or  loaded  with  fruit 
is  a  marvellous  sight. 

The  Benthamia  ia  at  ita  best  at  the  commence- 
ment of  July,  when  the  large,  pale  sulphur  flowers 
are  fully  expanded  and  the  trees,  with  every 
branchlet  covered  with  the  showy  blossoms,  present 


THE   KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


VEGETABLES  AT  "THE  GARDEN" 
SHOW. 

THE  vegetables  staged  at  the  recent 
Garden  Show  in  the  hall  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  once  more 
demonstrated  that  vegetables  could 
be  made  presentable  and  at  the  same 
time  more  profitable  in  many  ways, 
and  the  newly  formed  National  Vegetable 
Society  should  be  encouraged  by  the  splendid 
exhibits  staged  on  this  occasion.  The  competi- 
tion was  enormous,  and  there  was  a  remarkable 
absence  of  poor  or  badly  grown  exhibits  in  these 
classes  ;  indeed,  had  it  been  solely  a  vegetable 
exhibition  it  would  have  been  worth  going  a 
long  way  to  see.  The  annexe  of  the  large  hall, 
the  lecture  chamber  and  one  of  the  committee 
rooms  were  filled  with  vegetable  exhibits,  practi- 
cally all  of  the  best  possible  quality.  Mr.  E. 
Beckett  and  myself,  in  judging  a  portion  of  these 
exhibits,  were  surprised  at  the  extra  good 
quality  in  some  of  the  classes,  and  judging  was 
by  no  means  an  easy  matter,  it  being  necessary 
to  return  to  some  of  the  groups  several  times. 


CORNUS   CAPITATA    (BBNTHAMIA   FRAGIFERA)    AT   THE    MOUTH    OF   THE   RIVER    DART. 


Scotland,  but  this  must  be  in  an  exceptionally 
favoured  and  sheltered  spot.  It  may  be  found 
doing  well  in  certain  gardens  in  Dorsetshire 
and  Hampshire,  as  well  as  in  Devon  and  Corn- 
wall, and  it  flourishes  in  the  Channel  Islands. 
The  accompanying  illustration  shows  a  very  fine 
tree  which  is  growing  at  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Dart,  just  above  the  salt  water,  where  the  climate 
is  very  mild,  the  rare  and  tender  Buddleia 
madagascarensis  flowering  against  a  wall  in  the 
same  garden. 
South  Devon.  W.  Fitzherbbkt. 


A  SUMMER-FLOWERING  BROOM. 
(Criisus  nigricans.) 
This  beautiful  Broom,  which  is  also  frequently 
known  under  the  name  of  C.  Carlieri,  is  one  of 
the  most  valuable  additions  of  its  class  that  we 
have,  and  is  now  making  a  magnificent  display. 
Of  dwarf  and  compact  habit,  and  only  attaining 
a  height  of  about  3  feet,  it  ia  now  smoi.hered 
with  ita  pale,  upright  yellow  flowera,  borne  on 
apikea  9  inches  or  more  in  length.  These  last 
for  a  considerable  time,  and  cannot  be  too  highly 
recommended  for  planting  in  prominent  positions 
in  the  shrubberies  near  walks  and  drives. 

Matree,  Herts.  E.  Beckett. 


As  is  now  well  known,  the  gold  medal  offered 
for  the  best  exhibit  of  any  kind  in  the  show  was 
unanimously  given  to  the  splendid  exhibit  of 
twelve  distinct  vegetables,  beautifully  set  up, 
and  most  of  the  dishes  were  superb.  Here  was 
the  best  root  of  Cheltenham  Green-top  Beet  I 
ever  saw,  a  Beet  I  introduced  many  years  ago 
and  for  which  I  received  a  certificate  at  the 
Chiswick  Vegetable  Conference.  If  any  fault 
could  be  found  with  this  gold  medal  exhibit, 
there  was,  perhaps,  too  many  Potatoes  ;  at  least, 
such  was  my  idea.  Half  the  quantity  given 
more  room  would  have  been  more  effective,  but 
this  is  a  minor  detail.  The  other  collections, 
notably  the  second-prize  one,  were  very  good 
indeed. 

A  great  feature  was  the  splendid  quality  of  the 
Peas  staged,  some  hundreds  of  dishes  in  all.  I 
noticed  some  new  seedlings  staged  which  were 
remarkable  for  their  full,  well-paoked  pods. 
James  Grieve  was  very  fine.  Potatoes  likewise 
were  perfect  as  regards  ahape  and  free  from  spot, 
and  this  was  general  in  all  the  classes,  Duke  or 
York,  Satisfaction,  Abundance  and  Duchess  of 
Cornwall  being  ahown  in  quantities.  Other 
notable  vegetables  were  Onions,  Beet,  Carrots 
and  Tomatoes  ;  these  were  all  of  exceptionally 
good  quality.  G.  Wythes. 


412 


TH£    GARDEN. 


[august  21,  190&. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.  —  Alpines,  Saxi- 
frages and  similar  plants  may  now  be 
propagated  by  cuttings.  The  wood 
of  these  plants,  many  of  which  are  of 
a  eappy,  succulent  nature,  is  now 
getting  firm  and  suitable  for  propaga- 
tion. In  all  cases  a  sharp,  sandy  soil  is  the  most 
suitable  for  rooting  cuttings  in,  but  in  the  case 
of  alpines  and  Saxifrages  it  is  very  desirable  to 
use  such  a  compost.  Stagnant  moisture  sur- 
rounding the  base  or  the  buried  portion  of  the 
stem  is  almost  sure  to  be  fatal  to  the  cutting. 
Where  slips  can  be  obtained  with  a  few  roots 
adhering  to  them  they  must  be  put  in,  as  very 
useful  plants  would  result.  Insert  the  cuttings 
in  small  pots,  and  place  them  in  a  cool  frame  so 
as  to  protect  them  from  heavy  rains.  Trees 
and  shrubs  planted  last  spring  must  be  examined 
carefully,  and  if  at  all  dry  at  the  roots  water  should 
be  given  in  large  quantities ;  but  instead  of 
applying  all  the  water  in  one  day,  or  even  in 
two  days,  saturate  the  soil  first  over  a  space  that 
quite  covers  the  roots,  not  merely  just  round  the 
stem,  and  then  follow  with  three  or  four  applica- 
tions spread  out  over  a  whole  week.  I  daresay 
some  readers  will  have  noticed  the  premature 
falling  off  of  leaves  on  such  plants  ;  dryness  at 
the  roots  is  the  cause. 

Vegetable  Garden.  —  Seedlings  of  spring 
Cabbages  must  be  transplanted  in  nursery  beds 
prior  to  their  being  put  out  in  their  permanent 
quarters.  It  is  a  great  advantage  to  do  this 
transplanting,  as  the  young  plants  are  thereby 
made  strong  and  sturdy,  their  fibrous  roots 
are  increased  in  numbers  rapidly,  and  such 
specimens  have  short  stems  and  withstand  the 
winter  weather  much  better  than  others  which 
are,  perhaps,  larger  but  less  hardy.  In  the 
spring  the  transplanted  specimens  are  the  first 
to  form  hearts  and  turn  in  ready  for  use.  Weeds 
must  be  pulled  up  and  taken  away  from  the 
garden ;  if  they  can  be  burned  in  a  smothered 
fire,  BO  much  the  better,  as  all  seeds  must  be 
destroyed  and  prevented  from  germinating. 
Asparagus  plants  are  now  maturing  a  little,  and 
the  soil  among  them  must  be  kept  free  from 
weeds  ;  it  is  useless  to  try  and  kill  the  large 
weeds  by  hoeing  them  and  then  leaving  them  to 
lie  on  the  surface,  as,  aided  by  the  shade  cast  by 
the  Asparagus  plants,  they  would  commence  to 
grow  again — at  least  sufficient  to  enable  the  seeds 
on  many  of  them  to  ripen  and  shell  out.  Seeds 
of  Beans  and  Peas  intended  to  be  harvested 
must  be  left  in  their  respective  pods,  as  they 
keep  much  better  than  would  be  the  case  if  they 
were  shelled  out  now.  The  pods  must  be 
harvested  while  quite  dry. 


Fruit  Garden. — The  gathering  and  storing  of 
early  Apples  and  Pears  is  a  work  that  ought  to 
be  done  with  great  care.  As  a  rule,  cultivators 
are  in  too  great  a  hurry  to  get  the  fruit  off  the 
trees,  with  the  result  that  much  of  it  is  bruised 
and  will  not  keep  sound  for  many  days.  Carefully 
gather  the  fruits  and  lay  them  in  shallow  boxes 
or  baskets  with  linings  of  straw  or  hay.  Then 
put  them  in  single  layers  on  bare  shelves  in  cool 
rooms  and  admit  plenty  of  air.  Young  Straw- 
berry plants  may  still  be  planted,  but  those 
planted  earlier  will  make  the  best  plantations. 
A  mulch  of  half-rotted  littery  manure  must  be 
put  on  at  once,  both  in  the  case  of  recently 
planted  Strawberries  and  those  put  out  now. 
Any  secondary  runners  showing  on  the  young 
plants  must  be  removed  forthwith.  Plants 
growing  in  pots  for  forcing  should  be  fully 
exposed  to  the  sunshine  ;  they  cannot  have  too 
much  of  it  now.  Water  must  be  given  to  pre- 
vent the  soil  getting  at  all  dry.  Place  the  pots 
on  boards  on  a  bed  of  ashes  and  so  keep  out 
earthworms.     Get  the  crowns  well  ripened. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames.  —  Cyclamen  plants 
now  growing  in  cool  frames  must  be  well  venti- 
lated, and  on  calm  nights,  when  the  weather  is 
fine,  take  off  the  glass  lights  and  fully  expose  the 
plants.  Replace  the  lights  early  the  following 
morning.  Syringe  the  pots  and  under  the  foliage 
with  de&T  soot-water  when  the  weather  is  fine. 
This  kind  of  moisture  will  be  beneficial  to  the 
plants.  All  greenhouse  plants  must  be  well 
ventilated  at  this  season,  so  as  to  harden  them 
for  withstanding  the  more  severe  weather. 
Watering  should  be  done  in  the  forenoon,  so  that 
all  moisture  will  be  dried  up  before  night 
comes.  B. 


I. — A    SHOOT    OF    AUCUBA    JAPOKWA     SOITABLB 
FOK   M.iKI.NG   INTO   A  CUTTING. 


PROPAGATING  THE  AUCUBA  AND 
EUONYMUS. 
The  two  subjects  under  notice  are  evergreen 
shrubs  that  have  played  an  important  part  in 
beautifying  the  surroundings  of  our  homes  for 
many  years  ;  but  there  are  comparatively  few 
people  who  really  understand  how  these  sub- 
jects may  be  increased.  I  will  first  deal  with 
the  Aucuba.  As  an  evergreen  shrub  for 
growing  in  town  and  suburban  gardens  the 
Aucuba  has  few  equals,  as  it  withstands  the 
influences  of  unpleasant  and  injurious  atmo- 
spheric conditions  in  a  manner  that  few  other 
shrubs  are  capable  of  doing.  It  has  long  been 
regarded  as  one  of  the  most  useful  shrubs  for 
almost  any  position  in  the  garden,  and  its  culti- 
vation is  of  the  simplest  character.  I  am  aware 
that  it  is  frequently  planted  in  cold  and  un- 
pleasant aspects,  and  in  sail  that  would  hardly 
suffice  to  keep  other  subjects  alive,  and  even 
here  it  does  well ;  yet  when  accorded  more  than 
ordinary  care  this  shrub  responds  in  most 
liberal  fashion.  Besides  having  beautiful  foliage, 
mottled  or  reticulated  with  green,  creamy  and 
golden  yellow,  female  plants  produce  bright 
scarlet  berries.  In  order  that  the  development 
of  these  may  be  ensured,  it  is  well  to  plant  in 
close  association  the  female  and  male  specimens, 
about  six  of  the  former  to  one  of  the  latter. 

The  shrubs  are  best  planted  in  the  autumn  or 
early  spring,  and  as  they  increase  in  size  very 
rapidly,  ample  space  should  be  allowed  for  the 
development  of  each  plant.  It  is  a  good  plan 
as  they  develop  to  shorten  the  straggling 
growths  so  as  to  maintain  plants  of  even  contour, 
and  this  is  best  done  in  the  springtime  or  during 
April. 

The  Aucuba  is  increased  by  seeds,  which  may 
be  sown  in  sandy  soil  in  boxes  or  pots,  and  these 
placed   in   a  cold    frame  ;    by  the   insertion    of 


cuttings,  also  in  sandy  soil,  in  the  cold  frame  in 
late  August,  September  and  October ;  and  by  the 
layering  of  shoots  in  summer.  In  the  present 
instance  I  propose  to  deal  with  the  cuttings. 
These  can  be  made  from  shoots  of  the  previous 
summer's  growth,  and  should  be  from  6  inches  to 
S  inches  in  length  ;  and  to  enable  the  reader  to 
understand  the  character  of  the  shoats  that  are 
utilised  for  this  purpose,  I  have  endeavoured  in 
Fig.  1  to  represent  an  ideal  shoot  for  this 
purpose.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  shoot  has 
what  is  termed  a  heel  to  it,  just  as  it  is  broken 
out  from  the  old  plant.  When  taken  in  this 
manner  it  to  some  extent  ensures  the  better 
rooting  prospects  of  the  cutting.  Before  the 
latter  can  be  inserted,  however,  it  is  necessary 
that  the  lower  leaves  should  be  trimmed  off  as 
represented  in  Fig.  2,  in  which  instance  the 
cutting  is  prepared  in  readiness  for  insertion.  A 
comparison  between  the  two  figures  shows  very 
clearly  how  this  preparatory  work  should  be 
done.     It  is  important  that  the  leaves  should  be 


2. — THE  SAME  SHOOT  PREPARED  READY  FOR 
PLANTING.  NOTE  THAT  THE  LOWER 
LEAVES   ABE  REMOVED. 

severed  with  a  sharp  knife  close  to  the  stem  of 
the  cutting,  also  that  the  operation  be  finished 
off  neatly,  as  represented  in  the  latter  figure. 

The  cuttings  are  then  inserted  in  sandy  soil  in 
the  cold  frame,  where  soil  to  a  depth  of  6  inches 
or  8  inches  has  been  previously  prepared.  Cut- 
tings should  be  inserted  in  rows  about  6  inches  to 
8  inches  apart  and  4  inches  to  6  inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  When  dibbling  holes  it  is  important  that 
the  base  of  the  cuttings  should  rest  on  the  soil  in 
the  bottom  of  the  hole ;  and  if  the  prepared  com- 
post be  of  a  sandy  nature,  the  rooting  prospects 
are  thereby  made  brighter.  Take  particular 
pains  when  inserting  each  cutting  to  press  the 
soil  at  its  base.  After  all,  it  is  a  very  simple 
process,  and  so  long  as  the  soil  be  moistened 
throughout  in  the  first  instance  and  the  cuttings 
kept  fairly  close  and  shaded  from  bright  sun- 
shine during  the  rooting  process,  there  is  no 
reason  whatever  why  a  large  proportion  of  the 
cuttings  should  not  root  satisfactorily. 


August  21,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


413 


3.  — SHOOTS    or    EUONYMFS    FBOM    WHICH    CUT- 
TINGS CAN   BE   MADE. 

The  second  subject  I  wish  to  call  attention  to 
is  the  Euonymup,  commonly  known  as  the 
Spindle  Tree.  The  Euonymus  is  a  hardy 
deciduous  shrub  with  ornamental  foliage  and 
showy  fruits  in  the  autumn.  The  deciduous 
species  are  native  plants  of  North  America  and 
Britain.  The  British  species  is  known  as  E. 
europjeus  and  grows  wild  in  the  hedgerows  in 
many  parts  of  the  country.  It  is  a  plant  that 
not  infrequently  attains  a  height  of  6  feet  to 
8  feet  or  more.  There  is  an  evergreen  species 
known  as  E.  japonicus,  which  is  a  well-known 
Japanese  shrub,  commonly  met  with  in  town 
and  seaside  gardens.  There  are  several  varieties 
of  this  species,  each  of  which  has  a  beauty 
peculiarly  its  own,  and  any  of  which  are  worthy  of 
culture  where  a  representative  collection  of  these 
plants  is  desired.  The  evergreen  kinds  are 
specially  suitable  for  shrubbery  culture,  the 
more  choice  and  variegated  forms  being  adapted 
for  the  better  shrubberies  and  for  conspicuous 
situations  in  the  garden.  These  plants  appear  to 
revel  in  seaside  and  town  gardens,  and,  like  the 
Aucuba,  should  be  planted  either  in  the  early 
autumn  or  in  the  late  spring  or  early  summer. 

These  plants  are  also  increased  by  cuttings, 
which  are  not  difficult  to  manage.  The  cuttings 
should  be  from  4  inches  to  6  inches  in  length, 
and  may  be  propagated  during  late  August, 
September  and  October.  They  will  root  quite 
readily  in  sandy  soil  prepared  as  advised  for  the 
Aucuba  ;  and  to  enable  readers  to  understand  how 
to  proceed  with  their  propagation,  an  example  of 
an  ordinary  shoot  detached  from  the  old  plant  is 
given  in  Fig.  3,  which,  it  will  be  observed,  is  a 
portion  of  the  previous  summer's  growth. 

Fig.  4  shows  the  method  of  preparing  the 
cutting,  from  which  it  will  be  observed  that  the 
lower  leaves  are  removed,  leaving  only  a  few  at 
its  apex.  These  cuttings  should  be  inserted  in 
rows  4  inches  apart,  a  distance  of  from  3  inches 
to  4  inches  being  allowed  between  the  cuttings 
in  the  rows.  D.  B.  C. 


A  CHAT  ABOUT  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
The  beginner  will  now  be  anxiously  watching 
his  plants  and  wondering  how  they  will  look 
later  on  when  the  flowers  open  fully.  The  culti- 
vator who  grows  plants  for  the  decoration 
of  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory,  and  for  out 
blooms  for  furnishing  vases  in  the  dwelling- 
house,  will  do  well  to  disbud  some  of  the  plants 
and  to  allow  others  to  develop  all  the  buds  they 
bear.  In  this  way  he  will  obtain  blossoms  suit- 
able for  all  purposes. 

A  nice  spray  of  blossoms  is  often  much  more 
serviceable  for  placing  in  a  vase  than  is  a  very 
large  bloom  Late  crown  or  early  terminal  buds 
develop  into  the  best  flowers,  and  they  always 
look  well  on  specimen  plants.  Such  buds  are 
obtained  during  the  latter  part  of  August  and 
early  in  September.  Very  early  crown  buds 
generally  open  out  into  coarse  flowers  greatly 


lacking  in  colour.  Very  late  terminal  buds  lack 
size,  having  few  petals,  though  the  colour  of  the 
latter  is  very  rich.  When  the  colour  of  the 
flower-petals  can  be  seen,  place  the  plants  under 
glass  and  give  plenty  of  air.  Nothing  will  be 
gained  by  leaving  the  plants  outside  exposed  to 
rains  and  night  dews,  as  the  petals  would  damp 
off  wholesale  directly  the  plants  were  put  under 
cover. 

Then  there  is  the  question  of  feeding.  I  was 
once  feeding  my  plants  (growing  in  pots)  early 
in  the  summer,  when  a  friend  remarked, 
"  What !  feeding  the  plants  before  the  buds 
appear?''  "  Yes,"  I  replied,  "  I  feed  them  at  any 
time  when  I  think  they  require  extra  nourish- 
ment, as  I  believe  in  building  up  strong  plants 
before  the  buds  form."  Where  extra  large 
flowers  are  required,  all  the  necessary  feeding 
cannot  be  done  after  the  buds  form,  though  much 
benefit  is  derived  from  it.  All  liquid  manures, 
including  soot-water,  must  be  given  in  a  clear 
state  and  well  diluted.  Thick  liquid  clogs  up 
the  pores  of  the  soil  and  causes  sourness.  Air 
passages  should  be  kept  open. 


HOW  TO  COLOUR  GRAPES. 
There  are  three  critical  stages  in  the  growing 
of  Grapes  during  the  year.  The  first  occurs 
when  the  Vines  are  in  flower,  the  second  at  the 
stoning  period  and  the  third  when  the  berries 
commence  to  ripen.  The  bunches  are  now 
colouring,  and  it  must  be  our  endeavour  to  try 
and  get  a  rich  amber  in  the  so-called  white 
varieties  and  a  dense  black  in  the  blaek  varieties. 
A  light  shading  of  the  Vine  leaves  is  necessary 
in  the  case  of  the  former,  and  a  rather  dense 
shade  caused  by  the  main  leaves  and  a  few  lateral 
shoots,  allowed  to  extend  a  little  at  this  season,  in 
the  case  of  the  latter.  We  must  also  admit  plenty 
of  fresh  air  and  maintain  a  rather  dry,  buoyant 
atmosphere.  The  ventilators  must  be  open  more 
or  less  always,  both  day  and  night,  less  at  night, 
more  in  the  daytime.  On  a  calm  night  leave 
the  ventilators  open  2  inches  wide,  in  rougher 
weather  1  inch  will  be  sufficient.  Both  top  and 
front  ventilators  are  here  referred  to. 

Early  in  the  morning  increase  the  amount  of 
ventilation,  and  on  a  warm,  bright  day  have  the 
ventilators  wide  open  by  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  I  like  to  see  the  bunches  sway  gently 
in  the  warm  current  of  air  which  passes  through 
the  house,  as  when  such  conditions  obtain  the 
berries  mostly  finish  well.  Watering  the  border 
and  feeding  must  not  be  neglected.  Very  strong 
stimulants  must  not  be  given,  as  they  would 
induce  size  of  berry  at  the  expense  of  good 
colour-finish.  When  the  berries  are  about  half- 
coloured,  give  the  last  application  of  manure- 
water  ;  but  give  clear  water  afterwards  if  the 
border  soil  is  dry,  and  continue  to  do  so  when  it 
is  required.  From  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening 
to  the  same  time  in  the  morning  the  hot-water 
pipes  should  be  warmed  to  prevent  an  undue 
deposit  of  moisture  on  the  berries.    Shamrock. 


-THE    SAME    SHOOTS    PREPARED    READY  FOR 
PLANTING. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

Box  Edgings. — Although  Box  edgings  are  very 
favourable  for  harbouring  slugs  and  many  kinds 
of  insect  pests  that  are  injurious  to  plants, 
especially  young  ones,  there  are  many  persons 
who  like  to  see  them  in  their  gardens  as  edgings 
to  borders.  The  present  is  a  good  time  for  the 
cutting  of  such  edgings.  Where  there  is  loose 
gravel  on  the  paths  some  of  it  should  be  neatly 
drawn  away  from  the  Box  edging  before  the 
latter  is  trimmed,  then  the  trimmings  can  be 
readly  gathered  up  and  the  gravel  replaced.  In 
cases  where  the  gravel  is  firm  there  will  not  be 
any  need  to  disturb  its  even  surface,  as  the 
trimmings  can  be  brushed  up  when  the  work  of 
cutting  is  finished.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
to  cut  the  sides  and  top  of  the  edging  quite 
level. 

Garden  Hedges. — Privet,  Holly  and  Laurel 
are  the  principal  kinds  of  plants  used  for  garden 
hedges  in  town  and  suburban  districts.  If 
properly  trimmed  they  all  look  well  ;  the  Holly 
especially  looks  very  substantial  and  the  Privet 
neat.  Shears  may  be  used  for  cutting  the  latter 
and  also  the  Holly,  though  if  time  can  be  devoted 
to  the  work  a  much  better  effect  is  obtained 
where  pruning  scissors  are  used,  and  the  largest 
leaves  are  thus  preserved  whole.  Of  course,  all 
Laurels  must  be  cut  with  the  knife  or  pruning 
scissors  and  not  with  shears.  The  present 
cutting  of  the  hedges  must  be  regarded  as  a 
principal  one.  It  will  be  necessary  to  again  trim 
them  in  September,  when  straggling  shoots  only 
need  removal. 

Shrubs  and  Trees. — In  some  parts,  even  at 
the  present  time,  leaves  are  falling  from  trees 
and  shrubs,  especially  those  that  are  growing  on 
banks  or  in  a  naturally  dry  soil.  This  shows  that 
the  soil  is  rather  dry  around  the  roots,  notwith- 
standing the  rains  of  July  ;  and  this  being  the 
case,  it  behoves  cultivators  to  be  careful  in  their 
attention  to  newly-planted  bushes  and  trees. 
The  evergreen  specimens  planted  last  spring  were 
probably  watered  at  the  time,  but  not  since  in 
some  instances.  Where  such  is  the  case,  no  time 
must  be  lost  in  getting  the  soil  saturated  around 
the  roots.  It  is  not  wise  to  wait  until  the 
autumn  and  winter  rains  come.  Timely  watering 
may  mean  saving  the  specimens,  neglecting  to 
do  so  may  mean  losing  them.  The  right  way  to 
water  thoroughly  is  to  form  a  hollow  space 
around  the  stem  of  the  bush  or  tree,  then  water 
may  be  freely  poured  into  the  cup,  and  as  it 
cannot  run  away  on  the  surface  it  is  bound  to 
soak  in  and  so  moisten  the  soil  sufficiently  for 
the  remainder  of  the  season. 

Window-boxes,  Tubs  and  Vases. — In  order 
that  the  plants  may  look  fresh  and  clean,  all 
fading  flowers  must  be  picked  off  regularly 
several  times  each  week.  Where  this  cannot  be 
done  owing  to  lack  of  time  on  the  part  of  the 
cultivator,  one  careful  picking  should  at  least 
take  place.  The  quantity  of  soil  in  the  receptacles 
is,  of  course,  limited  on  account  of  lack  of  space, 
and  though  suffieient  for  the  needs  of  the 
plants  during  their  early  stages  of  growth,  it  is' 
not  enough  to  support  them  until  the  end  of  the 
season.  Feeding,  then,  must  take  place.  Before 
any  artificials  or  liquid  manures  are  applied  a 
good  soaking  of  clear  water  should  be  given. 
Liquid  manure,  made  from  soaking  farmyard  or 
stable  manure  in  tubs  of  water,  must  be  given 
in  a  weak  state,  about  the  colour  of  pale  brandy. 

Treatment  of  Climbing  Plants.  —  Here, 
again,  work  is  waiting  to  be  done.  The  wet, 
cool  summer  has  been  favourable  to  the  rapid 
growth  of  all  kinds  of  hardy  climbing  plants. 
Unless  the  straggling  shoots  are  neatly  tied  up 
they  will  become  still  more  difficult  to  deal  with 
in  a  very  short  time.  Stiff,  formal  training  must 
be  avoided  ;  some  very  weakly  shoots  should  be 
cut  out  entirely,  and  others  on  pergolas,  posts, 
arches  and  arbours  so  disposed  that  they  will 
appear  to  the  best  advantage  and  as  natural  as 
possible.  Avon. 


414 


THE     GARDEN. 


[August  21,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower   Garden. 

BEDDING  PLANTS.— There  will  before 
this  be  an  abundance  of  Pelargonium 
and  other  cuttings,  and  a  fresh  stock 
to  meet  requirements  should  be 
rooted  as  early  after  this  date  as 
possible.  In  some  gardens  the 
cuttings  are  inserted  on  a  sunny  border  to  be 
'  transferred  to  boxes  at  a  later  date,  but  the 
most  common  way  is  to  insert  the  cuttings  at 
once  in  shallow  boxes  or  small  pots,  using  a 
rather  light,  sandy  compost  pressed  firm  and 
surfaced  with  sand.  The  boxes  should  be  well 
drained  and  some  rough  leaves  or  moss  placed 
over  the  crocks.  Be  careful  to  plant  the  cuttings 
firmly  and  not  too  deep,  and  avoid  bruising  the  soft 
wood.  Supply  plenty  of  moisture  in  dry  weather 
and  stand  the  boxes  in  an  open  position. 
Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  Fuchsias  and  many  other 
plants  are  best  rooted  in  cold  frames  or  under 
hand-lights,  kept  close,  and  shaded  in  bright 
weather,  till  ample  roots  are  formed,  when 
abundance  of  air  should  be  admitted. 

Herbaceous  Borders. — At  the  present  time 
quantities  of  plants  may  have  to  be  lifted, 
reduced  and  freshly  planted,  for  if  left  undis- 
turbed two  or  three  years  they  deteriorate  to 
such  an  extent  as  to  become  almost  useless, 
especially  if  the  soil  is  of  a  light  and  hungry 
character.  Where  borders  have  got  into  a  bad 
state  it  is  by  far  the  best  to  lift  the  whole  of  the 
plants  at  a  later  date  and  trench  deeply  the 
border,  mixing  with  the  soil  as  the  work  proceeds 
plenty  of  manure  and  other  suitable  soil,  doing 
the  whole  of  the  work  thoroughly.  The  present 
is  a  good  time  to  prepare  a  plan,  as  this  will 
be  very  helpful  at  planting-time. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Pears. — As  the  earliest  varieties  approach 
ripeness  the  trees  should  be  gone  over  at  in- 
tervals, and  a  few  of  the  most  forward  gathered 
and  placed  in  the  fruit-room  to  finish.  By  so 
doing  the  season  is  greatly  lengthened  and  the 
flavour  of  the  fruits  improved.  Some  of  the  small 
varieties  are  very  sweet  and  refreshing  when 
gathered  ripe  from  the  trees.  Feed  liberally  the 
large  and  late  varieties,  and  more  especially  if 
the  soil  is  light  and  porous.  A  good  mulching 
over  the  roots  with  manure  will  be  of  great 
assistance  to  both  fruit  and  trees. 

Strawberries. — Plant  out  those  which  have 
been  layered  in  small  pots  for  fruiting  next  year. 
Let  the  ground  be  good,  plant  firmly  and  water 
immediately  afterwards  to  settle  the  soil  about 
the  roots.  For  an  early  supply  of  fruit  select  a 
warm  border  and  let  the  plants  stand  15  inches 
to  18  inches  apart ;  but  for  later  use  2  feet  apart 
will  be  more  suitable. 

Vegetable    Garden. 

Parsley. — A  good  bed  for  winter  and  spring 
use  must  not  be  overlooked.  If  young  plants 
are  transplanted  on  a  snug  border  where  they 
can,  if  necessary,  be  protected  with  a  few  lights 
or  some  other  arrangement  in  severe  weather,  so 
much  the  better.  We  generally  make  a  small 
sowing  of  seed  in  July  and  protect  later.  Sow 
plenty  of  Turnip  seed  for  a  supply  of  roots  in 
spring.  Red  Globe  and  Chirk  Castle  Stone  are 
good,  useful  varieties.  Plant  out  more  Leeks  and 
sow  Onions  of  the  Rocea  type  for  next  summer. 
The  land  for  this  crop  needs  but  little  preparing 
at  this  season.  It  should  be  good  and  rather 
firm.  Attend  well  to  the  planting-out  of  Endive, 
Lettuce  and  other  salads,  so  that  the  plants 
attain  good  size  before  the  cold  nights  set  in. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfit-ld.) 

Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamtt. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Indoor  Fruit  Departjient. 
Vineries  from  whence  the  crop  has  been  cleared 
should  have  all  surplus  shoots  cut  away,  pre- 
serving in  the  process  most  of  the  principal 
leaves,  especially  those  nearest  the  rods.  This 
done,  a  thorough  washing  by  means  of  hose  or 
garden  engine  to  every  part  of  the  structures 
will  clear  off  insect  and  dirt  deposits  from  thn 
foliage  and  dislodge  colonies  of  spiders  ensconced 
in  cosy  corners. 

Midseasmi  Houses  containing  ripening  fruit 
can  be  freely  aired  when  outside  atmospheric 
conditions  are  favourable,  but  at  all  times  avoid 
a  strong  draught  of  air  through  the  structures, 
as  this  is  inimical  to  good  finish  of  thin-skinned 
Grapes,  more  especially  the  white  varieties, 
which  show  a  blemish  more  quickly  than  those 
dark  in  colour. 

Late  Houses. — The  stoning  process  being  now 
completed,  and  the  subsequent  risk  of  scalding 
through  heat  and  moisture  greatly  reduced,  the 
most  may  with  advantage  be  made  of  sun-heat  by 
closing  early  and  maintaining  a  growing  atmo- 
sphere for  a  few  hours,  but  admit  a  little  air  later 
as  a  safeguard  through  the  night.  To  prevent 
condensation  of  moisture  upon  the  berries  and  its 
consequent  ill-effects,  slight  warmth  in  the  pipes, 
especially  in  the  mornings,  is  a  safe  course.  In 
breezy  weather  this  is  not  important  ;  but  if  the 
reverse  prevails,  and  the  sun  breaks  through 
fog  or  mist,  causing  the  outside  temperature  to 
rise  more  quickly  than  that  within  the  house, 
the  condensation  mentioned  is  considerable,  and 
much  mischief  may  accrue  before  a  remedy  can 
be  effected. 

Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 

Walt  Trees. — Where  not  already  completed, 
summer  pruning  should  be  pushed  on,  and  all 
shoots  required  for  the  extension  of  the  trees  be 
secured  to  the  supports  so  as  to  obtain  the 
maximum  of  sun-heat.  Unless  very  rampant,  it 
is  inadvisable  to  shorten  these  at  present,  the 
doing  of  which  might  cause  the  basal  buds  to 
start. 

Praches  and  Nectarines  may  also  have  well- 
placed  shoots  laid  in,  while  the  fruits  may  have 
the  fullest  possible  exposure  by  drawing  aside 
or  removing  the  leaves  about  them.  Any  fruits 
close  to  nails  or  wires  that  May  cause  injury  may 
be  relieved  by  having  the  ligatures  severed,  and 
a  piece  of  lath  placed  behind  a  branch  will  often 
prove  of  much  assistance  in  this  respect. 

The  Flower  Garden. 

Early  flowering  Chrysanthemums  will  need 
slight  support  by  way  of  a  central  stake  to  which 
the  shoots  may  be  looped  in  preference  to  close 
tying.  If  dryness  ensues,  water  freely,  and  give 
manurial  stimulant  once  a  week  until  the  flowers 
open  in  quantity. 

Dahlias  are  better  for  having  much  of  the 
smaller  growth  removed  to  prevent  overcrowd- 
ing. This  applies  more  particularly  to  show  and 
fancy  varieties.  The  Cactus  sorts  if  too  much 
divested  of  foliage  are  apt  to  produce  coarse 
flowers.  Earwigs  are  often  troublesome  to  the 
buds  of  many  flowers,  especially  the  species 
named.  Small  pots  half -filled  with  hay,  or  Bean- 
stems  cut  into  lengths  and  placed  about  the 
plants,  form  hiding-places  for  these,  by  which 
means  they  are  easily  caught. 

OladioH  require  eiScient  support,  and  the  ties 
so  made  that  these  rise  freely  with  the  flower- 
stems.  If  for  exhibition,  the  first  opening  flowers 
must  be  shaded  and  preserved  from  wet  to  obtain 
a  long  spike  of  blooms  of  equal  freshness. 

Pansies  and  Violas  should  be  examined  every 
week  and  have  all  bad  blooms  removed.  The 
same  applies  to  most  other  kinds  of  bedding  sub- 
jects, as  nothing  is  gained  by  allowing  seed-pods 
to  form,  for  these  rapidly  exhaust  the  flowering 
capacities  of  the  plants.       James  Dat. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacham. ) 

Galloway  Horue,  Oarlieatan,  Wigtownthire. 


AMONG     THE     ROSES. 

FROM  the  end  of  June  until  early  in 
August  the  Rose  season  has  been 
favourable.  We  had  a  bad  look-out 
at  the  end  of  March,  when  the  cold 
spell  nipped  the  rising  sap  just  as  the 
forwardest  buds  were  on  the  point  of 
breaking.  Much  damage  is  done  in  this  way 
before  the  buds  actually  burst,  and  it  has  a 
particularly  bad  effect  upon  Rose-buds  inserted 
the  previous  season,  affecting  them  before 
growth  has  thoroughly  welded  them  together. 
Standard  Briars  and  dwarf  stocks  planted  for 
budding  also  suffered  considerably  from  frost  and 
drying  winds.  Many  of  the  standards  were 
unable  to  recover,  and  we  have  experienced  two 
rather  bad  seasons  for  these  early  in  the  year. 
With  the  immense  selection  of  varieties  it  is 
almost  certain  that  many  will  stand  out  good,  no 
matter  what  the  season,  and  some  that  may  be 
always  depended  on  are  General  Jacqueminot, 
Fisher  Holmes,  La  France,  Augustine  Guinoie- 
seau.  Captain  Hayward,  Frau  Karl  Druschki, 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Caroline 
Testout,  Dean  Hole,  G.  Nabonnand,  Lady 
Battersea,  Prince  de  Bulgarie,  Griiss  an  Teplitz, 
Lady  Ashtown,  Richmond,  Ecarlate,  Mme. 
Antoine  Mari,  Le  Progr^s,  Mme.  Ravary,  Lady 
Roberts,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Ulrich 
Brunner  and  Viscountess  Folkestone.  There  is 
a  capital  range  of  colour  in  this  twenty-four,  and 
small  growers  would  find  them  very  useful. 

Diseases. — Rose  maggot  has  been  a  little 
troublesome,  but  we  are  singularly  free 
from  green  fly  and  thrip.  Mildew  and  red  rust 
are,  as  usual,  showing  as  soon  as  we  get  the 
extreme  changes  of  autumn  temperature.  There 
is  every  prospect  of  a  good  autumn  show  among 
the  invaluable  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas.  These 
are  increasing  in  beauty  and  variation,  in  spite 
of  such  seemingly  unsurpassable  quality  as  we 
already  possessed.  I  think  the  mid  and  late 
summer  crops  of  these  are  often  far  beyond  the 
first  flowers.  We  get  more  of  them,  and  the 
flowers  generally  last  longer,  owing  to  the  cooler 
nights  and  mornings.  Besides  this,  the  climbers 
and  pillar  Roses  are  over,  except  for  an 
occasional  bloom  or  two.  Particulars  of  a  few 
that  promise  to  be  very  good  will  be  given  next 
week. 
Sussex.  A.  P. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


The  Tree  Poppy  from  Devon. 
Mrs.  Macalister,  Hamslade,  Devon,  sends  us 
flowers  of  the  beautiful  Tree  Poppy  (Romneya 
Coulteri),  which,  with  their  crinkled  pure  white 
petals  and  yellow  stamens,  are  very  pretty.  Mrs. 
Macalister  writes  :  "  Enclosed  are  a  few  blooms 
of  Romneya  Coulteri  for  the  Editor's  table.  The 
plant  from  which  they  were  cut  is  about  6  feet 
through  and  has  over  twenty  strong  shoots  from 
4  feet  to  6  feet  6  inches  in  height  and  covered 
with  buds.  It  blooms  first  like  a  Chrysanthemum, 
a  grand  truss  at  the  top  of  each  shoot,  and  then, 
later,  a  bud  at  the  axil  of  each  leaf." 


Gladioli  from  Lancpokt. 
Messrs.  Kelway  and  Sons,  Langport,  Somerset, 
send  us  flowers  of  their  superb  Gladioli,  of  which, 
of  course,  they  have  for  many  years  made  a 
speciality.  Among  others  the  following  were 
particularly  good  :  Primrose,  beautiful  primrose 
self ;  Captain  Carter,  soft  shell-pink,  carmine  on 
lower  petal ;  Cornishraan,  deep  salmon  pink, 
yellow  and  carmine  markings  on  lip ;  and 
Hannibal,  soft  salmon  pink  with  rich  crimson 
lip.  The  value  of  these  flowers  for  flowering  in 
early  autumn  should  not  be  overlorUed,  anfl  in 
addition  to  their  value  for  garden  decoration 
they  are  excellent  for  cutting,  .1=  the  buds  open 
freely  in  water. 


August  21,  1909.1 


THE    GAEDEN. 


415 


Phlox  Mrs.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 
Mr.  E.  H.  Jenkins,  Queen's  Road  Nursery, 
Hampton  Hill,  sends  us  trusses  of  the  beautiful 
white  herbaceous  Phlox  Mrs.  E.  H.  Jenkins, 
which  are  at  this  season  of  the  year  most  ac- 
ceptable and  which  certainly  would  not  fail 
to  make  a  grand  display  in  the  border  or  in  large 
beds.  The  flowers  are  a  pure  intense  white  and 
are  borne  on  large  clusters  of  stout  stems,  the 
foliage  being  a  most  attractive  shade  of  green. 
Certainly  this  is  one  of  the  best  white  Phloxes 
that  we  know,  and  we  congratulate  Mr.  Jenkins 
on  his  success  in  the  culture  of  this  plant. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RDLES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answeps* — The  Editor  intencU, 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  ■no  Tnatter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
lie,  and  with  that  object  loill  Tnake  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  '  All  communica- 
tions sho^ild  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editoe  of  THE 
GARDEN,  SO,  Tavistook  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.  C.  Letters  on  bibsiness  should  be  sent  to  the  PUBLISHER. 
ihe  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  sepa/rate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Exhibitiner    herbaceous    plants 

(/.  Brown). — In  the  circumstances  the  Tree 
Lupine  is  no  more  admissible  in  a  set  of  her- 
baceous plants  than  is  the  Broom  or  the  shrubby 
Spiraea,  and  each  one  performs  precisely  the 
same  functions  in  much  the  same  way.  The 
question  of  shrubbiness  or  woodiness  in  these 
plants  is  simply  one  of  degree,  but  in  each  case 
the  axillary  buds  are  preserved  through  the 
winter  and  from  year  to  year,  and  the  plant 
produces  flowers  therefrom ;  hence  it  is  not 
herbaceous.  The  term  "  herbaceous  "  is  held  to 
imply  all  those  plants  whose  flowering  stems  are 
annual  and  whose  rootstock  is  perennial.  The 
exhibit,  therefore,  which  included  the  Tree 
Lupine  was  as  much  in  error  as  the  others,  and 
just  as  open  for  diqualification.  The  only  reason 
why  this  should  not  be  done  at  all  times  is  when 
each  competitor  is  guilty  of  the  same  error.  At 
the  same  time,  it  should  be  made  quite  clear  that 
it  is  wrong.  We  hold,  therefore,  that  the  judges 
were  in  error  in  permitting  the  plant  to  stand. 
In  future  your  schedule  might  give  a  footnote  to 
the  effect  that  ' '  the  inclusion  of  shrubby  or  sub- 
shrubby  plants  will  disqualify. " 

Making    a   hepbaoeous    bopder 

{E.  Lay). — The  best  time  is  early  September, 
and  the  best  way  would  be  to  form  groups  of 
plants  and  not  plant  single  pieces.  For  example, 
instead  of  planting  a  solitary  piece  of  Aster 
Amellus,  plant  three  or  five  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  cover  at  planting-time  a  ground  area  of  2  feet, 
the  developed  examples  at  flowering-time  reach- 
ing to  fully  twice  that  size,  and  in  this  way  create 
a  good  effect.  The  more  suitable  plants  would 
be  Michaelmas  Daisies,  Phloxes,  Delphiniums, 
Hollyhocks,  Helianthus  multiflorus  and  other 
subjects  in  the  background  ;  Trollius,  dwarfer 
Phloxes,  Columbines,  Lilies,  Iris  pallida,  I. 
ochroleuca  and  I.  aurea  in  the  next  line,  with 
Day  Lilies,  Gaillardias,  Irises  of  the  Flag 
section.  Aster  Amellus,  single  and  double 
Pyrethrums,  Lilium  umbellatum,  Inearvillea 
Delavayii  and  Sedum  spectabile  ;  and  Hepaticas, 
Megaseas,  dwarf  Campanulas,  Pinks  and  other 
flowers  in  the  front  row.  The  better  way  would 
be  to  give  your  order  to  some  hardy  plant  dealer, 
tell  him  the  class  of  soil  you  have,  and  allow 
him  to  make  the  best  selection  for  the  purpose. 


Hints  on  Lilies  {Fife).— From  what  we 
gather  from  your  letter,  we  conclude  that  the 
soil  is  too  light  for  the  Crown  Imperials  and 
other  Lilies,  all  of  which  require  moderately 
holding  loam  and  fairly  deep  planting.  The 
Crown  Imperials  should  be  at  least  6  inches 
deep.  As  the  bulbs  have  not  developed  full 
growth  this  season,  there  may  also  be  something 
amiss  with  the  roots,  and  you  cannot  do  better 
than  dig  them  up  at  once  for  examination.  If 
you  can  possibly  do  so,  you  should  add  clayey 
loam  to  the  soil  and  manure  and  replant  them  at 
once  as  suggested.  Lilies  that  have  become 
weak  take  some  time  to  recover,  and  possibly 
a  better  way  would  be  to  obtain  fresh  supplies. 
The  white-leaved  seedling  Delphiniums  were 
valueless,  and  their  early  decay  is  due  to  the 
absence  of  chlorophyll — green-colouring  matter — 
in  the  leaves,  which  to  the  plant  is  its  life's 
blood. 

Snreet  Peas  diseased  (3f.  Sitssex).— The  Peaa 
are  attacked  at  the  base  by  the  fungus  Thielavia  basicola. 
This  fungus  is  said  to  be  encouraged  by  the  presence  of 
lime.  It  would  be  well  to  choose  a  fresh  spot  for  the 
Peas  nest  year  and  to  manure  with  superphosphate. 

Proposed  pockery  (.W.  0.  Taijlor).— .You  have 
omitted  to  give  us  the  least  idea  of  the  size  of  the  plot, 
and  in  the  circumstances  It  is  well-nigh  impossible  to 
advise  you.  Perhaps  you  would  furnish  us  with  these 
particulars  and  say  how  far  removed  is  the  proposed  site 
from  the  30-feet-high  stables  to  which  you  refer.  If  you 
will  do  this,  we  will  endeavour  to  give  you  the  help  you 
require.  There  is  no  book  on  the  subject  at  present  that 
we  know  of  likely  to  help  you,  and  possibly  a  glance  at 
the  rock  garden  at  Kew  would  prove  more  helpful.  The 
best  class  of  rock  is  limestone  or  sandstone. 


THE    GREBNHOUSB. 

Adding:  to  a  gr^eenhouse  (/.  G.  M.). 
In  our  opinion  your  most  satisfactory  plan  would 
be  to  carry  a  main  from  the  stokehole  along  the 
ends  of  the  houses  and  connect  each  house 
separately  therewith.  This  would  enable  you 
to  regulate  the  heat  in  any  house  to  the  extent 
required,  which  would  not  be  the  case  if  there 
was  a  continuous  service  through  the  three  houses. 
As  so  many  different  tools  and  appliances  are 
wanted,  we  can  scarcely  advise  you  to  undertake 
the  work  yourself ;  but  would  suggest  that  the 
better  way  will  be  to  obtain  estimates  from  some 
of  the  reliable  hot-water  engineers,  such  as  those 
which  advertise  in  The  Garden. 

Lemon  Vepbena  going  vrpoag  (0.  Dark).— 
Ihe  shoot  of  the  Lemon  Verbena  appears  to  be  badly 
attacked  by  red  spider  and  thrips.  It  is  exceedingly  weak 
and  probably  needs  repotting.  If  this  is  done,  as  soon  as 
the  roots  take  possession  of  the  new  soil  the  plant  will  be 
better  stood  out  of  doors  than  under  glass.  It  must,  of 
course,  be  watered  when  necessary. 

Plants  fop  consepvatopy  (J.  E.  Turner).— 
There  is  no  lack  of  subjects  to  keep  your  conservatory  gay 
during  the  summer  months,  as  so  many  greenhouse  plants 
flower  at  that  season.  You  might  grow  a  collection  of 
Fuchsias,  Cannas,  tuberous-rooted  Begonias  or  Pelar- 
goniums, all  of  which  will  bloom  for  months  together. 
Other  continuous-flowering  subjects  are  Lantanas,  Lilies 
of  different  sorts,  Heliotrope  and  fibrous-rooted  Begonias. 
All  of  these  can  be  obtained  at  a  comparatively  cheap  rate 
at  this  season  of  the  year. 

Agapanttaus  flovveps  going:  wrpong  (IFjh. 
B.  B.). — The  rupture  in  the  flower-stem  of  your  Agapanthus 
is  undoubtedly  caused  by  a  severe  check  of  some  kind,  for 
instance,  the  removal  of  the  plants  from  a  shaded  position 
into  full  sun  or  by  exposure  to  cold  winds.  An  excess  of 
stimulants,  too,  might  have  the  same  effect.  At  the  same 
time,  we  may  say  that  a  parallel  case  to  yours  has  never 
before  come  under  our  notice,  for  though  we  have  met 
with  ruptured  flower-stems  from  one  or  other  of  the 
causes  suggested  above,  yet  we  never  before  saw  an 
attempt  to  flower  just  below  the  point  of  injury.  We  do 
not  think  that  cutting  off  tiie  undergrowth  would  have 
had  any  effect  in  preventing  the  damage. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Youngr  Peaeh  fruit  injuped  {G.  F.  8. 

Dixon). — The  young  fruit  has  all  the  appearance 
of  having  been  injured  by  frost,  and  possibly 
aggravated  by  warm  gleams  of  sunshine  falling 
on  the  fruit  before  the  frost  had  gone.  This 
always  aggravates  the  injury  due  to  frost  on 
tender  plants  and  trees.  The  injury  is  only  to 
the  outer  skin.  The  flesh  is  not  at  all  diseased, 
and  we  hope  the  fruit  (although  the  skin  will 
always  bear  the  mark)  will  swell  into  useful 
size  and  be  of  good  flavour. 


Grapes  not  showing'  fruit  ( William 
Hardy). — You  do  not  say  whether  your  Vines, 
which  have  no  fruit  on  this  year,  had  a  good 
crop  on  last  year  or  not  ?  On  those  which  are 
fruiting  you  have  far  too  many  bunches  on  a 
rod  of  9  feet.  Twelve  would  be  quite  enough 
instead  of  thirty.  Of  course,  it  depends  on 
the  size  of  the  bunches.  If  the  bunches  are 
about  lib.  each,  one  rod  may  carry  twelve. 
If  they  are  less  than  lib.,  then  it  may  carry 
fifteen.  Of  course,  if  more  than  lib.  (we 
mean  when  they  are  ripe),  then  the  rod  must 
carry  less  bunches.  You  should  at  once  reduce 
the  bunches  on  your  rods  to  the  number  given 
above.  As  there  are  five  rods  to  a  Vine,  one 
Vine  will  give  you  many  bunches,  even  after 
they  have  thus  been  reduced.  We  believe  that 
overcropping  in  previous  years  is  the  cause  of 
some  of  your  Vines  being  barren  this  year.  You 
say  that  the  foliage  and  Grapes  are  in  good  con- 
dition, and  this  proves  that  the  roots  are  all 
right. 

Stpawbeppy  plants  fop  pastupe 
land  (Amateur).— Ai  you  have  already  burnt 
your  turf,  you  will  be  doing  quite  right  to  dig 
it  into  the  soil  ;  but  if  you  have  not  started 
digging,  it  would  pay  you  much  better  to  trench 
the  land,  say,  18  inches  or  2  feet  deep,  and  bury 
the  turf  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench.  This 
would  enrich  and  improve  the  soil  for  many 
years  after.  If  you  have  not  this  depth  of  good 
soil,  it  would  be  better  not  to  trench  it,  as  it 
does  not  pay  to  bring  poor  soil  to  the  surface  and 
put  the  good  at  the  bottom.  Deep  ordinary 
digging  would  be  better.  The  sooner  you  can 
get  your  land  cultivated  and  got  ready  the 
better.  Secure  the  earliest  and  best  runners  you 
can  lay  your  hand  on  and  see  that  they  are  well 
rooted.  These  should  be  planted  at  once  if  you 
can  get  them.  By  planting  thus  early  the  young 
plants  have  a  chance  of  making  a  good  growth 
and  becoming  established  in  the  soil  before 
winter  sets  in.  These  plants  will  give  you  a  good 
crop  next  year,  a  better  one  the  second  year  and  a 
good  one  the  third  year.  As  a  rule,  after  that  it 
is  better  that  they  should  make  room  for  some 
other  crop  and  the  Strawberry  grown  in  fresh 
soil.  The  rows  should  be  15  inches  apart,  and 
the  plants  in  the  row  should  also  be  15  inches 
apart.  Instead  of  planting  one  plant  by  itself, 
it  will  pay  you  much  better  to  plant  three 
close  together  and  count  them  as  one  plant, 
thus :  *»*  *^*  *,*.  Your  crop  in  the  first 
year  will  be  trebled  and  be  also  heavier  after- 
wards. The  best  variety  for  all  purposes  is,  no 
doubt.  Royal  Sovereign.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest, 
surest  and  heaviest  croppers  of  all.  It  is  also 
handsome  and  sells  well.  The  only  thing  against 
it  is  that  it  is  rather  soft,  and  if  it  has  to  be  sent 
a  long  distance  by  train  it  is  subject  to  damage 
in  consequence  of  too  much  handling.  For  this 
reason  many  market  growers  prefer  Sir  J. 
Paxton.  It  is  of  grand  colour  and  the  flesh  very 
firm ;  therefore,  for  this  reason  travels  better. 
We  should  advise  you  to  plant,  say,  a  quarter  of 
your  land  with  a  later  sort,  and  there  is  no 
better  variety  to  plant  for  this  purpose  than 
Givon's  Late  Prolific. 

Ppuning  young  Cuppant  bushes  (0.  W.).— 
You  must  not  shorten  the  leading  shoots  you  mention 
until  winter,  and  then  only  one-third  their  length  should 
be  cut  off.  The  object  of  cutting  these  shoots  back  is 
to  compel  side  shoots  to  break  out  next  spring  right 
down  to  the  base  of  these  leading  shoots.  These  side 
shoots  should  be  stopped  at  the  end  of  July,  in  order  to 
let  in  more  light  and  air  among  the  branches  of  the  bushes 
and  also  to  help  the  better  development  of  fruit-buds  at 
the  base  of  these  side  shoots  before  autumn.  The  side 
shoots  should  be  pruned  back  in  summer  to  within  five 
leaves  of  their  base  only,  as  you  have  already  done,  and 
azain  in  winter  to  within  two  leaves  or  buds  of  their  base. 

Gpapes  dpopping  off  the  Vines  (IT.  H.).— 
Your  Vines  have  been  injured  by  scalding,  a  term  used  to 
describe  the  injured  berries,  as  they  appear  as  if  they  had 
been  scalded  with  hot  water.  The  injury  always  happens 
when  the  berries  are  as  large  as  the  sample  sent,  and 
some  varieties  of  Grapes  are  more  subject  to  injury  in  this 
way  than  others,  notably.  Lady  Downe's  Seedling  and 
Muscat  of  Alexandria.  The  injury  is  caused  by  the  lack  of 
sufficient  ventilation  early  in  the  morning  when  the  Vine 
foliage  and  berries  are  saturated  with  moisture.   Ventilate 


416 


THE    GARDEN. 


fAuGUST  21,  1909. 


freely  in  warm  weather,  and  leave  the  ventilators  slightly 
open  all  night  (top  and  bottom).  Apply  slight  Are-heat 
on  cold  nights  to  keep  the  air  buoyant.  Bear  this  in 
mind  next  year  before  your  Grapes  arrive  at  this  stage,  and 
we  think  they  will  escape  injury. 

Apple  tpees  bliarhted  (ff.  IT.  P.).— American 
blight  on  Apple  trees  is  a  most  d'tBoult  pest  to  get  rid  of. 
The  best  way  we  know  of  is  to  spray  the  trees  as  soon  as 
the  leaves  fall,  and  again  early  in  February  before  new 
growth  commences,  with  caustic  alkali  wash.  This  kills 
all  insects  it  comes  in  contact  with.  Care  must  be  taken 
that  every  particle  of  the  bark  is  moistened  by  the 
wash,  or  a  stock  of  the  pest  may  be  left  for  breeding  the 
following  spring.  We  have  given  a  recipe  for  making  this 
wash  on  many  occasions,  and  do  so  now  again  in  case  you 
are  unable  to  find  it.  Dissolve  lib.  of  commercial  caustic 
Boda  in  water,  and  also  lib.  of  crude  potash  in  water 
separately.  When  both  have  been  dissolved,  mi.f  the  two 
together,  then  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  agricul- 
tural treacle.  Stir  well  together  and  add  as  much  water 
as  will  make  ten  gallons  of  the  mixture.  The  wash  has  a 
burning  effect  on  the  hands  and  clothes  :  therefore  means 
must  be  taken  to  protect  them  while  it  is  being  applied. 
The  trees  had  better  be  pruned  before  the  wash  is  applied, 
and  let  all  the  prunings  be  carefully  picked  up  and  burnt. 
When  the  trees  are  badly  affected,  it  will  be  found  that  a 
few  will  reappear  in  spring,  however  carefully  the  wash 
may  have  been  applied.  It  is  then  necessary  to  keep  a 
sharp  look-out  for  their  reappearance,  when  the  following 
mixture  should  be  applied  to  the  affected  parts,  but  not 
to  the  trees  generally  :  Dissolve  21b.  of  soft  soap  in  one 
gallon  of  boiling  water,  add  one  gallon  of  paraffin  and 
churn  well  together  until  a  creamy  mixture  is  produced. 
To  this  concentrated  mixture  add  twenty  gallons  of  water 
and  carefully  spray  the  affected  parts,  and  continue  to  do  so 
as  Ion?  as  any  reappears  :  by  this  means  we  hope  you  will 
completely  rid  yourself  of  the  pest.  The  mixture  should 
be  constantly  stirred  while  it  is  being  applied  to  the  trees, 
in  order  to  keep  the  paraffin  in  solution.  You  might  try 
spraying  or  syringing  your  trees  now  with  this  mixture, 
adding  thirty  gallons  of  water  to  the  concentrated  emul- 
sion instead  of  twenty  gallons. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

^Vatep  Infested  with  Duckweed  (ff.  V.  W). 

We  are  afraid  thit  you  have  no  option  but  to  skim  the 
Du-^kweed  off  your  water.  It  is  a  long  job,  but  the  most 
effective  way  in  the  end.  The  best  plan  is  to  stretch  a  piece 
of  canvas  or  sacking  across  the  water  weighted  2  feet  or  so 
down  and  draw  the  weed  together,  and  then  skim  it  off. 
Failing  this,  make  a  circle  of  strong  wire  2  feet  to  2}  feet 
across,  fasten  it  to  the  end  of  a  long  handle  and  cover  it 
with  canvas,  leaving  the  canvas  somewhat  loose  ;  then, 
from  a  boat  or  punt,  skim  the  water.  A  quantity  of  water' 
fowl  might  keep  the  water  clear,  but  if  you  have  a  garden 
In  the  vicinity  they  would  prove  a  nuisance. 

Formation  of  a  lawa  from  pou§rh  meadofxr 
land  ijf )— If  your  grass  appears  to  be  thick  in  the 
bottom  and  of  fairly  good  quality,  you  will  probably  be 
well  advised  by  lifting  and  relaying  it  next  autumn.  If, 
however,  it  is  poor  and  thin  or  of  very  coarse  quality,  it 
would  be  better  to  remove  it  I  inch  or  2  inches  deep.  Dig 
the  ground,  level  it,  tread  it  quite  Arm,  and  sow  good  seed 
about  the  end  of  September  if  the  weather  is  showery  ;  if 
not,  wait  for  a  week  or  two.  Failing  early  autumn  sowing, 
leave  it  until  early  March.  If  you  prefer  to  relay  the  old 
turf,  keep  it  closely  mown  this  summer  and  well  rolled, 
and  dress  it  with  one  of  the  various  lawn  sands,  which  can 
be  obtained,  with  directions  for  use,  from  most  of  the 
leading  nurserymen.  This  sand  will  kill  out  many  of  the 
weeds  without  injuring  the  grass  other  than  turning  it 
brown,  perhaps,  for  a  week  or  two.  About  October 
remove  the  grass  in  good-sized  turves  about  li  inches  or 
2  inches  thick ;  dig  the  ground  over,  level  it  and  relay  the 
turf.  If  you  have  a  lawn  expert  in  your  neighbourhood, 
it  would  be  advisable  to  seek  his  advice  about  the  grass  if 
you  have  had  no  previous  experience  with  lawns. 

Various  questions  (B.  Atkinson).— {l)Oaeot  the 
best  remedies  for  mildew  on  Roses  is  to  syringe  the  plants 
with  sulphide  of  potassium  dissolved  in  hot  soapy  water. 
Half  an  ounce  of  potassium  should  be  used  to  every  two 
gallons  of  water.  In  syringing  great  care  must  be  taken 
to  wet  the  under-sides  of  the  leaves  as  well  as  the  upper 
surface.  A  preparation  known  as  Lysol,  which  can  be 
obtained  from  horticultural  sundriesmen,  is  tty  many  cul- 
tivators regarded  as  a  very  effectual  remedy  for  mildew  on 
the  Rose.  (21  Among  the  best  Carnations  for  growing 
Indoors  are,  of  the  Tree  or  American  class,  Beacon,  orange 
scarlet ;  Britannia,  full  scarlet ;  Enchantress,  delicate 
pink  ;  Flamingo,  bright  scarlet ;  Harlowarden,  deep  crim- 
son ;  Lady  Bountiful,  pure  white ;  Mrs.  H.  Burnett 
salmon  pink ;  Mrs  T  W.  Lawson,  rose  pink  ;  Mrs.  M.  A. 
Patten,  white,  striped  pink;  Mrs.  S.J.  Brooks  pure  white; 
Prosperity,  white,  mottled  pink  ;  White  Perfection,  pure 
white  ;  and  Winsor,  silvery  pink.  Of  the  Malmaison  sec- 
tion, Baldwin,  rose  pink  ;  King  Oscar,  rich  crimson  ;  Lady 
Rose,  rose  pink  ;  Maggie  Hodgson,  dark  crimson  ;  Mrs.  E. 
Hamhro,  carmine  rose ;  Mrs.  Trelawney,  deep  salmon  ■ 
Nautilus,  delicate  flesh ;  Nell  Gwynne,  white ;  The 
Churchwarden,  crimson  scarlet ;  Princess  of  Wales,  rose 
pink  ;  and  the  old  blush  Malmaison.  Of  these  the  Tree  or 
American  varieties  are  struck  from  cuttings  of  the  young 
shoots  in  heat  early  in  the  year,  and  grown  on  till  hy 
autumn  they  are  established  in  5-inch  pots  with  buds  in 
process  of  development.  The  Malmaison  varieties  are 
propagated  by  layers  when  they  have  done  blooming  and 
are  grown  on  altogether  under  glass.  A  good  liquid 
manure  for  these  Carnations  is  that  made  from  cow- 
manure  and  soot,  but  it  must  not  be  used  till  quite  clear. 
(3)  A  selection  of    border  varieties  would  include  Alice 


Ayres,  white,  striped  carmine  ;  Agnes  Sorrel,  dark  maroon  ; 
Aureole,  yellowish  buff ;  Braw  Lass,  rich  bright  rose ; 
Duchess  of  Fife,  pink  ;  Germania, yellow;  George  Maquay, 
white  ;  H.  J.  Cutbush,  scarlet :  Lord  Roberts,  yellow  ■ 
Lottie  Pike,  scarlet ;  Miss  A.  Campbell,  yellow ;  Mrs.' 
Nicholson,  rose  pink  ;  Mrs  Reynolds  Hole,  apricot ;  Riby 
Castle,  salmon  pink  ;  and  Uriah  Pike,  deep  crimson.  Carna- 
tions of  this  section  are  usually  propagated  by  layers  after 
they  have  done  flowering,  and  in  the  autumn  when  these 
layers  are  well  rooted  they  are  planted  in  the  spot  where 
they  are  to  flower  next  year.  In  cold,  wet  soils  the  layers 
are  usually  potted,  wintered  in  a  frame  and  planted  out  in 
the  spring.  In  light  soils  a  cooling  manure  such  as  cow- 
manure  is  the  best,  but  in  heavy,  damp  soils  something 
lighter  is  preferable.  We  have  given  you  a  brief  sketch  of 
the  treatment  required  by  the  two  sections  of  Carnations, 
and  to  deal  with  the  subject  more  fully  would  greatly 
exceed  the  entire  space  devoted  to  "  Answers  to  Corre- 
spondents." There  are.  however,  several  books  dealing 
with  the  Carnation  from  which  you  would  learn  much. 

Making:  Tobacco  ftom  Nicotlana  afflnls 
(ir.  Smith).~lt  is  doubtful  whether  you  will  be  able  to 
prepare  good  Tobacco  from  the  leaves  of  the  ordinary 
Nicotiana  afflnis,  though  this  plant,  or  a  form  of  it,  is 
sometimes  cultivated  for  the  purpose.  The  most  proflt- 
able  species  are  N.  Tabacum  and  N.  rustica,  and  of  these 
many  selected  varieties  are  grown.  Experiments  with 
various  kinds  were  carried  out  at  the  Botanic  Gardens, 
Rsgent's  Park,  a  few  years  ago,  and  you  would  probably 
be  able  to  obtain  some  information  on  the  subject  by 
writing  to  the  Superintendent.  About  twenty  years  ago 
experiments  were  made  on  a  large  scale  by  Messrs.  Carter 
and  Co..  and  the  result  of  their  observations  is  condensed 
in  a  small  book  edited  by  Mr.  B.  J.  Beale,  published  by 
E.  Marlborough  and  Co.,  London.  The  text  of  this  book 
originally  appeared  in  the  offlcial  publication  of  the 
Bath  and  West  and  Southern  Counties  Agricultural 
Association.  In  that  book  you  will  be  able  to  obtain  all 
the  information  you  desire,  with  names  and  illustrations 
of  all  the  most  suitable  sorts.  We  are  unable  to  state  the 
price,  but  it  is  not  a  dear  work.  You  may  possibly  be 
able  to  obtain  it  from  Messrs.  Carter  and  Co.,  seedsmen, 
237  and  238,  High  Holborn,  London,  if  you  cannot  get  it 
through  the  publisher. 

Infopmation  about  plants  (R.  BX—Ot  the 
plants  concerning  which  you  enquire,  Embothrium 
coccineum  is  too  tender  for  the  purpose  suggested.  It  is 
hardy  in  the  more  favoured  parts  of  the  West  of  England, 
but  would  not  be  a  success  in  your  district.  Fremontia 
californica  can  scarcely  be  recommended  for  cultivation  in 
a  tub,  as,  among  other  features,  it  has  a  way  of  dying 
off  suddenly.  Leycesteria  tormosa  would  do,  but  it  is 
deciduous.  Paulownia  imperialls  if  cut  back  annually  will 
never  flower ;  indeed,  if  allowed  to  grow  unchecked  it  is 
not  likelv  to  bloom  when  grown  in  a  tub.  The  different 
kinds  of  Philadelphus  or  Mock  Orange  will  grow  and  flower 
well  in  a  tub,  but  they  are  lesfless  during  the  winter. 
With  regard  to  our  selection,  we  do  not  know  whether 
you  need  evergreen  or  deciduous  subjects  ;  if  evergreen, 
Berberis  Darwinii,  green-leaved  Aucuba,  variegated- 
leaved  Holly,  Laurustinus,  golden-leaved  Privet,  Box  and 
Aralia  Sieboldii.  Of  deciduous  subjects  with  effective 
flowers  we  can  recommend  Buddleia  globosa,  yellow, 
midsummer ;  Deutzia  scabrj  flore  plena,  white,  June ; 
Diervilla  (Weigela)  Eva  Rithke,  crimson,  summer ;  Hy- 
drangea panicnlata  grandiflora,  large  heads  of  creamy 
flowers,  August ;  Philadelphus  Lemoinei  erectus,  white, 
June;  Styrax  japonica,  white,  June;  and  Viburnum 
ollcatum  (Japanese  Snowball  Treel,  white,  end  of  May 
Some  coniferous  trees  do  well  in  tubs,  especially  Cupressus 
lawsoniana,  Prumnopitvs  elegans,  Retlnospora  obtusa, 
R  nlumosa  and  Thuja  (Thnjopsis)  dolabrata. 
Name  of  fviiit,~Cosgrnm.~CiiTr&rit  Fay's  Proliflc. 
Names   of   plants  —T.   E.    Woodhouse.—l,    Rose 

Hiawatha  ;   2,  Spirasa  Menziesii ;  3,  Sedum  spurium. 

Wrs.  Baff.— Seneoio  Cineraria  and  Campanula  Trachelium 

flore-pleno. B.  C— Berberldopis  oorallina. Kitchen. 

—1,  Phuopsis  stylosa ;  2,  Clematis  recta ;  3,  Veronica 
longifolia  alba  ;  -1,  Lilium  croceum  ;  5.  Veronica  longifolia 

variety;  6,  Soiriea  Filipendula. J.  H.  C— 1,  Rudbeckia 

laclniata ;  2,  Helianthus  rigidus ;  3,  Erigeron  multiradlatus ; 
4,  E.  philadelphicus  ;  5,  Thalictrum  angustifolla ;  6,  Cam- 
panula  rapunculoides ;    7,  Anaphalis    margaritacea ;    8, 

Clematis  recta. E.   G.—l,  Veronica   buxifolia ;   2,  V. 

Traversii ;  3,  Buddleia  globosa  ;  4.  Leycesteria  formosa ;  5, 
send  in  flower ;  6,  Spirssa  japonica ;  7,  S.  canescens ; 
s,  Neillia  opulifolia ;  9,  Jasminum  humile ;  10.  Polygala 

myrtifolia ;   11.  Spiriea  salicifolia  ;    12,  S.  Menziesii. 

J.  G.  B. — Morina  longifolia  and  Alstroemeria  aurantiaca. 

B.  E.   West.—l,  Draciena  Victorise  (yes,  this  can  be 

"  ringed ") ;  3,  Euphorbia  jacquiniflora  (cuttings  can  be 
taken  and  rooted  in  heat);  5,  Abutilon  species.  It  Is 
impossible  to  name  the  other  specimens  sent  from  part  of 

leaf  only.    Why  not  send  leaves  and  flowers? G.  P. 

.l.sAfo)!.— Troptoolum  species.     Impossible  to   say  which 

from  such  a  scrappy  specimen. M.   C— Delphinium 

grandiflorum. W.  T — Mesembryanthemum  coccineum. 

Salop.  —  Sidalcea  malvasflora  ;    2,   Rose  (petals  had 

dropped) ;  3,  cannot  name  without  flowers  ;  4,  Achillea 
species  (please  send  better  specimens) ;  .1,  Galium  Mollugo ; 

6,  Jasione  montana. W.  X.,  Northampton.— I,  Phlomis 

viscosa ;  2,  Clematis  montana ;  3,  Asphodelus  species 
(specimen  too  poor) ;  4,  Lysimachia  punctata  ;  5,  Veronica 
longifolia  rosea ;  6,  no  specimen  ;  7.  Acanthus  spinosus  ; 
8.  send  in  flower;  9,  Lythrum   Salicaria ;   10,  Anaphalis 

margaritacea;  11,  Lythrum  virgatum. Score?-.— 1,  Azara 

micrsphvlla ;  3.  Hymenanthera  crassifolia ;  4,  Veronica 
salicifolia ;  6,  Cotoneaster  microphylla ;  6,  Calluna  vulgaris 
alba  ;  8,  Podophyllum  peltatum  ;  12,  Cotoneaster  frigida  ; 
14,  Gaultheria  nummularioides  ;  V\  Sedum  reflexum  ;  IC, 
Veronica  cupressoides ;  19,  Spirsea  palmata  ;  20,  Gillenia 
trifoliata. 


SOCIETIES. 

THE  READING  GARDENERS'  ASSOCIATION. 
Good  fortune  again  attended  the  members  of  this  associa- 
tion when,  on  the  evening  of  Friilay,  August  6,  hy  kind 
invitation  of  the  vice-president,  Mr.  Leonard  Sutton  a 
visit  was  paid  to  his  charming  gardens  at  Hillside, 
Reading.  A  party  numbering  within  a  few  of  20n,  many 
of  whom  came  from  Maidenhead,  Henley,  Wokingham, 
Sandhurst,  Pangbourne.  &c.,  assembled  at  5.45  p.m  at 
which  hour  tea,  thoughtfully  provided  by  Mr.  Sutton 
was  taken  al  fresco  beneath  the  trees  in  the  orchard,  amid 
perfect  surroundings  and  in  ideal  weather.  A  tour  of  the 
gardens  under  the  personal  leadership  of  Mr.  Sutton  was 
afterwards  made,  Mr.  Townsend,  the  head-gardener,  and 
his  staff  taking  charge  of  those  who  were  unable  to  occupy 
the  front  rank.  The  vice-president  is  a  great  lover  of 
annuals,  and  these  beautiful  subjects,  together  with 
perennials  grown  as  annuals,  formed  delightful  colour- 
effects  m  the  beds  on  the  lawns,  lovely  Pentstemons 
Antirrhinums,  Salpiglossis,  Ac,  being  much  admired  In 
the  houses  were  to  be  seen  splendidly  grown  Gloxinias 
Oesneras,  Coleus,  Schizanthus,  Celsia  Arcturus,  &c. 
Altogether  the  party  found  much  to  interest  them  during 
the  hour  and  a-half  spent  in  the  gardens,  and  as  a  linale 
they  were  conducted  to  the  private  recreation  ground  at 
Cintra,  provided  by  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons  for  their 
employees,  and  watched  the  games  of  bowls,  tennis,  &o 
until  twilight  brought  a  most  charming  evening  to  a 
close.  Before  separating,  the  president.  Mr.  Alderman 
Parfltt,  expressed  to  Mr.  Sutton  the  thanks  of  all  present 
for  providing  such  a  truly  enjoyable  evening. 

HIGHCLIFFE  HORTICULTURAL  SHOW. 
On  Thursday,  the  12th  inst.,  the  comlng-of-age  of  this 
flourishing  society  was  celebrated  by  the  holding  of  a  very 
flue  exhibition  in  the  beautiful  grounds  of  Highcliffe  Castle, 
by  kind  permission  of  General  Stuart-Wortley.  The 
weather  was  ideal  for  such  an  occasion,  and  people  came  in 
large  numbers,  thoroughly  enjoying,  in  addition  to  the 
numerous  exhibits,  the  privilege  of  walking  through  the 
private  gardens  attached  to  the  castle.  The  latter  has 
from  time  to  time  been  the  temporary  residence  of  many 

Sersons  of  high  position,  including  His  Mijesty  King 
dward  VII..  and  quite  recently  His  Imperial  Majesty 
the  Emperor  of  Germany,  both  of  whom  planted  trees  in 
the  park  to  commemorate  their  visits. 

For  a  collection  of  Potatoes,  round,  four  distinct  varie- 
ties, Mr.  T.  Payne  was  first  with  very  flue  specimens, 
Mr.  G.  Birnes  being  second  and  Mr.  E.  Broome  third. 
For  a  similar  collection  of  kidney  Potatoes,  Mr.  G.  Barnes 
was  first,  followed  by  Messrs.  T  Payne  and  E.  Broome  in 
the  order  named.  In  the  classes  for  single  dishes  of 
Pitatoes,  the  above-named  exhibitors  were  the  chief 
prize-winners.  Mr.  Broome  scored  in  the  classes  for  twelve 
autumn  Onions,  twelve  spring  Onions,  six  Carrots  and  six 
Parsnips.  Mr.  Payne  was  successful  with  both  white  and 
red  Cabbages,  Runner  Beans  and  Vegetable  Marrows. 
For  a  collection  of  hardy  fruits,  Mr.  E.  Broome  won. 
Messrs.  Payne  and  ft.  Barnes  being  second  and  third 
respectively.  In  Division  II.  Mr.  W.  Oasting,  Mr.  R. 
Shave  and  Mr.  Govier  were  the  principal  prize-winners. 
The  spring  Onions  staged  by  Mr  Shave  were  the  fluest  we 
have  seen  this  season  so  far.  They  were  exception- 
ally large  and  firm, 

N  m-competitive  exhibits  were  a  big  feature  of  the  show. 

Mr.  Maurice  Prichard  of  the  Christchurch  Nurseries, 
and  so  well  known  as  a  grower  and  exhibitor  of  hardy 
plants,  put  up  a  very  fine  lot  of  herbaceous  cut  flowers 
and  Water  Lilies.  The  collection  included  Phlox,  Spiraia 
Aitchisoni,  Stenanthium  robustum,  Kuiphofias  and 
Crinums. 

Messrs.  D.  Stewart  and  Son,  Ferndown  Nurseries, 
Wimbome,  Dorset,  had  a  grand  collection  of  Roses 
Gladioli  and  other  cut  flowers.  The  Roses  included  fine 
blooms  of  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  Lyon,  Mrs.  Peter 
Blair  and  Perle  des  Jaunes,  the  latter  a  lovely  golden 
coppery  yellow.  All  were  very  fresh  and  tastefully  staged. 
This  firm  grows  Roses  well. 

Lady  Curzon-Howe  had  a  nice  exhibit  of  flowers, 
vegetables  and  fruit ;  Mr.  Coles  staged  thirty  vases  of 
beautiful  Sweet  Peas,  and  the  hon.  secretary.  Mr.  Steptoe 
a  collection  of  Grapes,  Apples,  Tomatoes,  Plums  and 
Sweet  Peas.  Mr.  F.  Frampton  also  had  a  grand  exhibit  of 
Grapes.  Cucumbers,  Tomatoes  and  a  variety  of  vegetables. 
Lovely  groups  of  miscellaneous  plants  were  arranged  by 
the  head-gardeners  on  behalf  of  Mrs.  Ricardo.  Mrs. 
Braddyll  and  Mrs.  Wiggins. 

THE  HOLYPORT  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 
The  second  flower  and  vegetable  show,  which  took  place 
on  August  12  in  the  beautiful  grounds  of  Hendens  Manor, 
Holyport,  by  kind  permission  of  Miss  Langworthy,  passed 
off  with  great  success.  There  were  400  entries,  besides 
some  flfteen  complimentary  exhibits  contributed  by  the 
local  residents,  among  whom  may  be  mentioned  Captain 
the  Hon.  E.  S.  Dauson,  Cannon  Hill ;  Miss  Langworthy, 
Hendens  Manor,  Holyport ;  S.  Heilbut,  Esq.,  The  Lodge, 
Bolyport;  A.  Hoffnung,  Esq.,  Rawdon  Hall,  Holyport; 
E.  Oppenheimer,  Esq.,  Hawthorn  Hill,  Berks;  Mrs. 
Phillips,  Bray  Court,  Maidenhead  ;  and  T.  J.  Ford,  Esq., 
Kimbers  House,  Maidenhead,  who  sent  exhibits  of  vege- 
tables and  groups  of  flower  and  foliage  plants.  The 
judges  were  Mr.  George  Allen,  gardener  to  Sir  George 
Pigot,  Wargrave,  and  Mr.  W.  Hulbert,  gardener  to  M. 
Litkie,  Esq,.  Pinckney's  Green,  Maidenhead,  and  they 
were  loud  in  their  expressions  of  admiration  for  the 
exhibits  generally.  Notwithstanding  the  great  heat  (86° 
in  the  shade),  the  show  was  well  patronised  and  went  off 
without  a  hitch. 


GARDEN. 


-Ta<^— 


^r 


No.  1971. -Vol.  LXXIII. 


August  28,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


Strawberries    in 
Cold  Frames  ..     ..    417 

NnTBS  OF  THE  WBEK 

Forthcoming  events  418 
Perennial  Phloxes  . .  418 
liational  Sweet   Pea 

Society 418 

Correspondbnob 
Desfontainea  spinosa 

in  Scotland    . .      .418 
Burning     clay     for 

Roses       419 

The    Hydrangea    in 

tubs 419 

Where  to  obtain  the 
Vinegar  Plant      . .    419 

Irish  notes     419 

ROSE  G-ABSEII 
Among  the  Roses    . .    420 
Two  good  new  Roses     420 
Fruit  Sabden 
Methods  of  renovat- 
ing Vines       . .     . .    421 
ElTOHEN  Qakden 
A  good  maincrop  Pea    421 

B1.0WER  GARDEI) 

Daffodil  notes  . .     . .     421 
Nymphsea   stellata 
Earl  of  Warwick  . .    422 


424 

424 
426 
425 


Flower  Garden 
The  Hoary  Mullein..    423 
Sweet  Pea  chat  422 

Campanula  punctata     423 

Coloured  Plate 
Some    good    new 
I^srcissi 423 

aARDENINQ  FOE  BBSINIIERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week 

Propagation  of  Roses 

by  cuttings    . .     . . 

Harvesting  Onions  . . 

The  Town  Garden    . 

Gabsenirs  of  the  Week 

For  the    South   and 

South  Midlands   . .    426 
For  the  North    and 
North  Midlands  . .    426 

New  plants 426 

AHBWEBa      TO      CORRE- 
ePORDEHTS 
Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Rose  garden 
Fruit  garden 
Miscellaneous  . . 
The  Editor's  Table 
SOOIETIES        . .      . . 


427 
427 
427 
428 
428 
428 
428 


ILLiUSTRATIONS. 

Hydrangea  growing  in  a  tub  in  a  Kent  garden    . .     . .    419 
The  new  Nymphsea  stellata  Earl  of  Warwick      . .     . .    420 

A  good  crop  of  Pea  Senator 421 

The  Hoary  Mullein  in  a  Scottish  garden       422 

Some  good  new  Narcissi      Coloured  plate 

Campanula  punctata  in  a  South  Devon  garden  . .     . .    423 

Propagation  of  Roses  by  cuttings     424,  425 

Messrs.  B.  Webb  and  Sons'  Leamington  show  exhibit     427 


BDITORIAIi    NOTICES. 

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All  com/munications  m^ust  be  written  clea/rly  on  one  side 
ofily  of  the  paper,  a/nd  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  Thb 
Garden,  ac<^ympa/nied  by  Twme  a/nd  address  of  the  sender. 


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Otflces:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C, 


STRAWBERRIES    IN    COLD 
FRAMES. 

THIS  style  of  culture  ia  now  well  under- 
stood among  Strawberry  -  growers 
round  London,  and  produces  the  crops 
of  this  fruit  which  are  now  so  largely 
grown  by  market  growers,  and  which 
in  most  seasons  give  such  splendid  results,  not 
only  in  the  high  quality  and  handsome  appear- 
ance of  the  fruit,  but  also  in  weight  of  crop  and 
generally  in  highly  remunerative  prices.  This 
is  an  inexpensive  way  of  growing  forced  Straw- 
berries, and  the  system  has  been  practised  by 
professional  gardeners  in  England  for  many 
years,  but  as  yet  is  little  understood  or  prac- 
tised by  amateurs  or  allotment  -  holders.  And 
yet  it  is  a  system  well  calculated  to  enhance  not 
only  the  pleasure  to  be  derived  from  a  garden  by 
its  adoption,  but  it  also  has  the  further  advan- 
tage of  bringing  to  the  grower  in  most  seasons  a 
handsome  cash  return  for  his  labour.  As  is  well 
known,  the  price  of  Strawberries  in  London 
during  the  season  is  governed  by  their  scarcity  or 
abundance  in  the  market.  The  supply  of  this 
fruit  up  to  about  the  middle  of  May  is  met  by 
hothouse-grown  fruit  from  plants  in  pots.  After 
this  time  the  fruit  grown  in  pots  becomes  scarce, 
and  by  the  end  of  the  month  is  practically  over  ; 
the  outdoor  fruit  is  not  generally  ripe,  even  in 
the  South,  until  from  June  10  to  June  15.  It 
is  at  this  time  that  the  usefulness  of  the  fruit 
given  cold  frame  protection  is  realised. 

Now  is  the  time  to  plant,  because  there  is  ample 
time  for  the  young  plants  to  root  into  the  soil 
and  establish  themselves  before  winter,  and  every 
day's  delay  after  this  lessens  the  chance  of  com- 
plete success.  The  plants  will  grow  equally  as 
well  in  a  cold  pit  as  in  ordinary  garden  frames.  If 
ordinary  frames  are  used,  the  ground  to  be  pre- 
pared must  be  of  the  size  of  the  frame  or  of  the 
numberof  frames  available,  and  theposition  should 
be  due  south,  or  south-east  or  south-west  will  do. 
The  first  thing  to  do  will  be  to  trench  the 
soil  2  feet  deep.  If  it  is  of  a  good  holding 
nature,  no  other  soil  need  be  added  to  it ;  but  a 
layer  of  well-decayed  manure  4  inches  thick 
should  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench 
and  half  the  quantity  mixed  with  the  top  spit 
as  the  trenching  proceeds.  Quicklime  and  bone- 
dust  should  also  be  mixed  with  the  top]  spit 
at  the  rate  of  one  gallon  of  lime  and  half  a 
gallon  of  bone-dust  to  a  light.  Should  the  soil 
be  of  a  very  light  nature,  half  of  it  should  be 
wheeled  away  and  heavier  soil  (turf  preferably) 
added,  trenching  and  adding  manure  as  before 
advised. 

The  Young  Plants. — If  these  have  been  pre- 
viously layered  in  pots,  so  much  the  better — but 


this  is  not  absolutely  necessary — the  strongest 
runners  and  those  which  are  best  rooted  should 
be  selected  and  planted  immediately  the  frames 
are  ready.  As  the  plants  under  this  system  of 
culture  are  replanted  every  year,  it  is  necessary 
to  plant  thicker  than  would  be  the  case  if  they 
remained  in  the  ground  for  two  or  three  years, 
as  is  usual  with  this  crop  ;  therefore,  instead  of 
planting  single  plants  in  the  row,  I  advise  that 
three  plants  be  placed  fairly  close  together  and 
considered  as  one  plant,  thus,  *  »  *  *  ,  ',  leaving 
a  space  of  12  inches  between  the  set  of  three 
plants  in  the  row  and  15  inches  between  the 
rows. 

Planting. — This  is  a  simple  matter,  but  there 
is  a  right  and  a  wrong  way  of  going  about  the 
work,  as  there  is  in  many  garden  operations.  Be 
careful  not  to  sink  the  crowns  of  the  plants  too 
low.  When  planted  the  crown  should  be  on  a 
level  with  the  surface  of  the  soil.  Do  not  forget 
to  press  the  soil  firmly  to  the  roots  of  the  plants 
and  to  give  them  a  good  soaking  of  water  when 
planting  has  been  completed.  Should  the  weather 
continue  dry,  the  soil  must  be  maintained  in  a 
moist  condition  in  »rder  to  encourage  growth, 
and  water  must  be  withheld  only  when  growth 
occurs,  which  will  not  be,  if  the  weather  is  open, 
before  the  end  of  October.  The  plants  will 
require  no  further  attention  afterwards  until  the 
following  spring,  except  that,  if  there  is  excessive 
rain  or  extra  severe  frost  during  winter,  the 
lights  should  be  placed  on  the  frames  during  those 
times,  but  with  air  on  during  the  day. 

Spring  Treatment. — This  is  very  simple.  It 
consists  in  placing  the  lights  over  the  plants  as 
soon  as  the  flowers  begin  to  expand — indeed,  as 
soon  as  they  are  seen  to  be  on  the  move — in 
order  not  only  to  gently  expedite  their  growth, 
but  also  to  protect  the  blossom  from  frost. 
Ample  air  must  be  given  during  the  daytime, 
and  at  night  also  in  the  absence  of  frost.  The 
condition  of  the  soil  must  be  examined  at  this 
time,  and  if  found  to  be  at  all  on  the  dry  side,  a 
copious  watering  should  be  given  and  then  a  mulch 
of  strawy  manure  laid  over  the  ground  round  the 
plants,  which  may  remain  on  until  the  fruit  is 
gathered  to  preserve  it  from  contact  with  the 
soil.  Abundance  of  air  must  be  given  while  the 
plants  are  in  bloom,  and  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is 
set  its  swelling,  if  desired,  may  be  facilitated  by 
syringing  the  plants  and  closing  the  frame  about 
4  p.  m.  while  the  sun  is  shining  on  it,  raising  the 
temperature  to  about  70°  to  75°  Fahr.  for  two  or 
three  hours.  About  this  time  it  is  necessary  to 
exercise  sound  judgment  as  to  timing  the  fruit, 
bearing  in  mind  that  it  is  not  desirable  to  have 
it  ripe  in  bulk  before  about  May  10  or  May  15. 
If  it  is  desired  to  retard  the  crop,  ventilate  freely  ; 
on  the  other  hand,  to  hasten  the  crop  syringe  the 


418 


THE     GARDEN. 


[August  28,  1909. 


plants  and  close  the  lights  with  heat  as  men- 
tioned above. 

While  the  fruit  is  swelling,  water  at  the  roots 
must  be  given  freely,  using  weak  manure-water 
at  every  other  watering.  No  better  manure- 
water  can  be  used  than  that  formed  by  dissolving 
a  handful  of  Peruvian  guano  in  three  gallons  of 
water.  When  ripe  the  fruit  should  be  picked 
early  in  the  morning  before  it  is  warmed  by  the 
sun.  Owen  Thomas. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  hy  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

August  .SI.  —  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m.  Lecture  at  three 
o'clock  on  "  The  Gardens  by  the  Lake  of  Como," 
by  Mr.  James  Hudson,  V.M.H. 

September  1. — Preston  and  Fulwood  Horticul- 
tural Society's  Show  (three  days).  Glasgow  and 
West  of  Scotland  Society's  Exhibition  at  Glasgow 
(two  days). 

September  i. — National  Dahlia  Society's  Ex- 
hibition at  the  Crystal  Palace  (two  days). 

A  new  Dahlia. — A  beautiful  new  Dahlia, 
a  native  of  Mexico,  should  create  a  small  stir  in 
the  world  of  flowers  ;  it  is  called  Coronata,  and  is 
in  bloom  in  the  interesting  nursery  of  Mr.  E. 
Maynaid,  Borough  Green,  Wrotham,  Kent. 
It  is,  of  course,  single,  and  the  flower  is  of  a 
peculiarly  beautiful  colour — clear  salmon  red,  the 
pttils  broad  and  in  the  evening  close  up,  forming 
an  almost  perfect  ball.  This  is,  as  far  as  I  am 
aware,  quite  a  distinct  feature  in  the  Dahlia. 
Apart  from  the  strangely  attractive  colouring, 
the  closing  up  of  the  petals  and  the  length  of  time 
the  flowers  remain  in  beauty,  there  is  a  sweet 
scent  of  Bluebells.  Coronata  certainly  appears 
to  have  the  making  of  a  new  and  beautiful  group, 
and  the  hybridist's  attention  may  well  be  drawn 
to  it.  There  is  no  difference  in  cultivation 
between  this  and  the  ordinary  types  of  single 
kinds. — V. 

National    Sweet    Pea    Society.— 

The  following  is  the  official  list  of  awards  made 
by  the  floral  committee  of  the  above  society  after 
two  visits  to  the  trials  of  350  stocks  and  varieties 
at  Reading  University  College  Gardens.  First- 
class  Certificate. — To  Clara  Curtis  (Row  No.  186), 
from  Mr.  W.  J.  Unwin,  Histon,  Cambs. 
Award  oj  Merit. — To  Charles  Foster  (Row 
No.  7),  from  Mr.  Robert  Bolton,  Carnforth ;  to 
Edrom  Beauty  (Row  No.  350),  from  Mr.  A. 
Malcolm,  Duns,  Berwick  ;  to  Mrs.  W.  J.  Unwin 
(Row  No.  289),  from  Mr.  W.  J.  Unwin,  Histon  ; 
to  Dazzler  (Row  No.  334),  from  Mr.  C.  W. 
Breadmore,  Winchester  ;  and  to  Sunproof 
Crimson  (Row  No.  33S),  from  Messrs.  Dobbie 
and  Co. ,  Rothesay.  Highly  Commended.  — To  Mrs. 
Watson  (Row  No.  86),  from  Mr.  Robert  Bolton, 
Carnforth.  Gommendation  as  a  Marhet  Variety. — 
To  Mercia  (Row  No.  136),  from  Messrs.  G. 
Stark  and  Son,  Great  Ryburgh  ;  and  to  Colleen 
(Row  No.  .305),  from  Mr.  William  Deal,  Brook- 
lands,  Kelvedon. — Charles  H.  Curtis,  Hon. 
Secretary. 

Perennial  Phloxes.— On  the  long  her- 
baceous border  at  Hampton  Court  Palace  are  two 
large  and  very  brilliantly  flowered  clumps  of 
that  rich  -  coloured  but  ornamental,  erratic - 
growing  Phlox  Coquelicot.  So  very  striking  is 
this  variety  thus  massed  that  most  of  the  other 
Phloxes  there  look  ineffective,  and  some  are  not 
worth  a  place  in  such  a  garden.  That  we  have 
now  a  superb  collection  of  beautiful  varieties  is 
certainly  the  case.  A  visit  to  any  nursery 
where  these  Phloxes  form  a  prominent  feature 
shows  that  fact  in  a  very  eflective  way.  While 
Roses,  Pseonies,  Irises  and  Pyrethrums  are 
practically  over,  Phloxes  are  at  their  very  best, 


and  the  infinite  variety  of  colour  and  markings 
found  in  a  good  collection  makes  a  garden  just 
now  look  supremely  gay.  At  Long  Dittou, 
where  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  have  such  a  wonder- 
ful selection,  their  beauty  is  most  manifest,  and, 
seeing  how  hardy  Phloxes  are,  how  easily  in- 
creased either  by  propagation  or  by  division,  and 
how  readily  they  accommodate  themselves  to  soil 
as  well  as  to  surroundings,  it  is  a  matter  for  sur- 
prise that  more  of  these  hardy  flowers  are  not 
generally  found.  A  good  selection  I  made 
recently  at  Long  Ditton  may  be  of  interest  to 
many  readers  of  The  Garden,  who  may  desire 
to  extend  their  collections  or  to  beautify  their 
borders  with  such  delightful  hardy  flowers : 
Stendhall,  brilliant  orange  scarlet,  a  stronger 
grower  than  Cuquelioot  ;  Selina,  flesh  pink  ; 
Illustration,  very  tine  reddish  carmine ;  Acquilon, 
purplish  rose;  Albert  Lasteau,  a  beautiful  large 
mauve  pink  ;  L'Aiglon,  soft  rosy  red  ;  Eclaireur, 
purplish  red,  pale  centre  ;  Rheingau,  tine  white, 
with  dark  leafage  ;  Snow  Queen,  pure  white  with 
pale  leafage  ;  Sprite,  white  rose  ;  Gruppeu  Ront- 
gen,  soft  pink  ;  D.  Mois,  rich  rosy  red  ;  and  Lady 
Molly,  deep  pink,  slightly  flushed  lavender.  The 
colour  descriptions  are  my  own.  All  the  varie- 
ties have  fine  heads  and  pips,  and  give  very 
beautiful  colouring.  So  easily  are  Phloxes  in- 
creased that  one  plant  purchased  now  or  next 
spring  will  make  several  in  a  year  or  two  ;  hence 
a  first  outlay  is  soon  amply  repaid — A.  I). 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  J  or  the   opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 

The  sale  of  Raffiatape.— The  actions 
against  two  of  our  leading  firms  of  seed  mer- 
chants compel  me  to  make  the  following  explana- 
tion. In  the  "Inventors'  Manual,' as  in  other 
patent  journals,  may  be  seen  the  following : 
' '  Letters  patent  may  be  obtained  for  '  The 
application  of  a  known  substance  to  a  new 
purpose  when  some  inventive  power  is  evidently 
necessary  to  make  the  application  available  for 
the  new  purpose.'"  Raffiatape  was  never  used 
for  tying  up  plants  before  I  applied  my  inventive 
power  and  patented  the  stuff  for  the  perfectly 
new  purpose  of  tying  up  plants,  because  it 
stretches  to  enable  the  plants  to  grow.  The 
patent  was  fully  granted  me,  but  in  190(i  it  was 
revoked,  causing  me  much  loss  through  no  fault 
of  my  own.  Due  notice  of  this  revocation  was 
given  to  the  trade,  yet  some  firms  still  marked 
Raffiatape,  pure  and  simple,  as  "  West's  Patent 
Raffiatape."  Prior  to  this  patent  being  annulled 
I  applied  for  the  registration  of  the  word 
Raffiatape,  and  a  second  patent  for  the  improved 
mode  of  coiling  tape  to  prevent  it  entangling 
had  been  secured.  This  second  patent  being 
granted  under  the  new  Act  is  a  very  valid  one, 
and  cannot  be  set  aside  like  the  first  patent, 
which  was  under  the  old  Act ;  therefore  it  comes 
about  that,  although  it  is  wrong  to  mark  Raffia- 
tape as  "  West's  Patent,"  yet  it  is  quite  correct 
to  style  the  improved  Raffiatape  coils  as 
"  West's  Patent  Coils,"  as  was  done  before  the 
revocation  of  the  first  patent  and  ever  since. 
— C.  E.  West. 

How  to  keep  cut  Roses  fresh.- 
I  find  that  cut  Roses  last  twice  the  usual  time 
if,  instead  of  being  put  into  vases  at  once,  they 
are  thrown  into  a  basin  of  water  for  a  few  hours 
first,  letting  them  float  on  the  surface.  This 
gives  the  blooms  such  a  reserve  stock  of  moisture 
that  they  retain  their  freshness  in  a  surprising 
manner.  When  they  are  intended  for  giving 
away  I  leave  them  in  the  basin  rather  longer, 
and  then  arrange  them  in  an  ornamental  basket 
and  take  them  to  their  destination,  making  a 
point  of  assuring  my  friends  that  they  can  be 
left  just  as  they  are  all  the  afternoon  and 
evening.  This  may  sound  strange,  but  I  have 
tested  the  point  so  often  that  now  I  frequently 


resort  to  this  method  for  decorating  my  rooms, 
though,  of  course,  it  takes  more  flowers  and  can 
only  be  etfectively  carried  out  when  the 
morning's  gathering  has  yielded  a  fairly  good 
supply.  Yesterday's  Roses,  which  have  been 
treated  in  this  way,  are  almost  as  good  as 
to-day's,  having  none  of  the  limpness  which  one 
expects  to  see  the  next  morning.  For  sending 
Roses  by  rail  and  post  I  find  this  device  most 
valuable,  and  also  for  sprays  and  button-holes. 
I  have  worn  a  Rose  for  half  a  day,  only  floating 
it  in  a  basin  of  water  the  last  thing  at  night, 
and  the  next  morning  it  has  been  quite  fresh 
again.  Surely  this  is  putting  the  plan  to  a 
pretty  severe  test  !— G.  Layard. 

Sweet  -  smelling:  flowers.— What  a 

charming  feature  in  any  large  garden  is  one 
section  set  apart  expressly  for  sweet-smelling 
plants  !  There  is  such  a  wealth  of  these,  from 
Violets  and  Wallflowers  to  Tobaccos,  Clove 
Carnations,  Night-scented  Stocks,  Cape  Pelar- 
goniums, Heliotropes  and  myriads  of  things,  that 
it  is  possible  to  have  not  only  infinite  variety,  but 
exceeding  beauty.  While  of  hardy  Pinks  there 
has  been  a  great  increase  of  sweet-smelling 
varieties,  there  has  been,  unfortunately,  in 
Carnations  not  the  same  progress.  Some  emel) 
sweetly,  but  so  many,  while  beautiful  to  look  at, 
have  no  perfume.  'Then  so  many  of  the  modern 
Carnations,  with  their  loose-growing  habits,  are 
quite  unfitted  for  outdoor  work.  For  that 
reason  in  any  garden  of  eweet-smelling  flowers 
the  Old  Crimson  Cleve  must  have  a  prominent 
place.  I  have  just  seen  grown  by  a  railway 
porter  here  in  Kingston-on-I'hames  a  big  breadth 
of  the  beautiful  soft  pink  sport  of  this  old  Clove, 
the  plants  blooming  profusely  and  giving  the  usual 
rich  perfume.  No  garden  should  be  without 
this  delightful  Clove.— A.  D. 
Galega    Hartlandll.— I  am  glad  to 

notice  that  this  beautiful  plant  has  been  brought 
before  the  floral  committee  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  quite  recently,  and  this  without 
any  recent  effort  on  my  part,  but  through  the 
head  of  the  department  at  Wisley,  to  whom  I 
sent  a  plant  some  years  since.  Now  that  it  has 
obtained  the  award  of  merit,  the  history  of  its 
recognition  here  at  Ard  Cairn  should  be  accredited 
to  the  late  F.  W.  Burbidge,  a  man  with  a  keen 
eye  for  anything  good,  from  a  Daffodil  to  an 
Orchid.  He,  when  on  a  visit  to  Cork,  pronounced 
it  as  one  of  the  best  summer  border  plants  for 
colour  in  existence.  This  praise  was  well 
deserved.  This  summer  it  has  been  very  fine, 
and  we  have  had  it  in  flower  since  the  end  of 
April  under  glass,  as  it  forms  a  splendid  show  in 
the  large  conservatory  in  conjunction  with  the 
beautiful  new  Spirseois  Peach  Blossom  and 
Alexandria. — William  Baylor  Hartland. 
Three  yellow-flowerlnir  cottagre 

g^arden  Tulips. — Readers  who  have  not  tten 
the  following  should  grow  them  in  quantity  for 
cutting  purposes  or  decoration  in  the  garden. 
It  is  difficult  to  decide  between  the  merits  of 
gesneriana  lutea  and  Mrs.  Moon.  The  writer, 
from  long  experience,  thinks  more  of  the  former, 
and  now  that  growers  have  produced  them  in 
large  quantity  the  price  is  really  low.  For 
instance,  gesneriana  lutea  at  about  Is.  per  dozen 
(6s.  6d.  per  100)  is  very  moderate  for  such  a 
glorious  flower,  and  Mrs.  Moon  at  about  Ss.  6d. 
per  di  zen  is  not  dear.  Then  Leghorn  Bonnet  at 
about  Is.  3d.  per  dozen  (83.  6d.  per  100)  as  a 
pale  straw-coloured  bloom  cannot  be  matched. 
All  have  been  introduced  to  commerce  from 
Ireland  and  are  well  worth  notice.  —  Irlsh 
Fdrze. 

Desfontalnea  spinosa  in  Scot- 
land.— This  is  an  evergreen  shrub  resembling 
the  Holly,  but  more  bushy  in  growth.  As  it 
comes  from  Chili  it  is,  naturally,  a  little  tender, 
and  should  be  protected  from  cold  spring  winds. 
It  is  said  to  thrive  and  flower  outdoors  only  in 
the  South  near  the  sea,  or  in  a  cold  house  ;  but 
here  I  have  it  growing  and  flowering  freely  in 
the  open  in  an  exposed  situation  facing  west.     I 


August  28,  1909.  J 


THE    GAilDK^^. 


41& 


Fend  you  a  branch  covered  with  its  beautiful 
tubular-shaped  yellow  and  red  flowers. — John 
McWatt,  Morelands,  Dmis. 

Burning*  clay  for  Roses.  — With 
reference  to  Mr.  Oakley's  enquiry  on  the  subject 
of  lightening  heavy  clay  for  Rosea  by  burning, 
the  main  point  to  be  observed  is  to  ensure  slow 
combustion.  The  supply  of  air  must  be  limited, 
and  the  best  results  are  obtained  by  using 
no  eoal  or  cinders,  but  old  bits  of  wood,  hedge 
clippings,  lawn  mowings,  weeds  and  other  garden 
rubbish.  Having  once  got  the  fire  well  started, 
add  alternate  layers  of  clay  and  rubbish.  If  any 
part  should  burst  into  flame,  it  should  be  damped 
down  with  clay  or  any  damp  material.  In  this 
way  all  the  products  of  combustion  will  be  con- 
densed and  a  black  friable  soil  will  be  produced. 
— A  Reader. 

The  Hydrangea  In  tubs.— A  noble 

plant  for  growing  in  a  tub  is,  as  the  illustration 
suggests,  the  Hydrangea.  Several  are  standing 
on  the  terrace  facing  Mr.  Phillips's  residence, 
Wrotham  Park  Hill,  Wrotham,  being  all  in  full 
bloom,  and  last  year  one  of  the  specimens  was 
covered  with  no  less  than  600  of  the  delightful 
pink-coloured  clusters.  Many  years  have  elapsed 
since  these  were  in  their  infancy,  but  the  reward 
is  great  for  years  of  waiting  to  achieve  such 
results.  The  owner  is  shown  standing 
by  one  of  the  plants,  and  this  gives  an 
idea  of  the  width  and  luxuriance  of 
the  Hydrangea  when  grown  in  this 
way.  No  complete  disturbance  of  the 
roots  has  taken  place  for  years,  but 
in  spring  a  top-dressing  of  manure  and 
a  little  bone-meal  are  given,  and  during 
the  summer  months  an  abundance  of 
water,  sometimes  mixed  with  soot,  as 
this  preserves  the  natural  green 
colouring  of  the  leaves.  During  the 
winter  the  plants  are  kept  in  a  Peach 
house  free  from  frost,  or  a  shed  will 
suffice.  They  are  wintered  much  in 
the  same  way  as  specimen  Fuchsias, 
Myrtles  and  similar  shrubs  that  have  a 
certain  tenderness  of  growth. — V. 

Annuals  In  gardens.- 1  saw 
recently  in    a    local    garden    a    very 
striking  border  of  annuals  as  an  edging 
to  the  6-feet  grass  paths  in  the  kitchen 
gardens.     The  background  in  one  long 
walk  was  of  espalier  Apples  and  Pears 
and  in  another  of  pyramidal  fruit  trees. 
At  the  time  of    my  visit    the    chief 
attraction  was  a  long  line  of  the  Pot 
Marigolds  (Calendula  officinalis),  and 
included    the  varieties  Orange  King, 
Meteor,  Sulphur  Queen  and  Prince  of  Orange.  The 
efieot  was  most  striking.     The  plants  were  about 
2  feet  high  and  nearly  the  same  broad.     The  seed 
was  sown  in  February,  the  plants  pricked  out  in 
boxes  when  2  inches  high,  duly  hardened  off  and 
planted  out  at  the  end  of  April.     Such  a  sheet  of 
colour  is  well  worth  imitation.     The  Calendulas 
were  fronted  with  dwarf  Antirrhinums  in  mixed 
colours,  and  the  opposite  side  had  glorious  lines 
of  the  tall  Salpiglossis  baeked  by  a  Holly  hedge 
and  Lupinus  Cruikshankii.     Other  borders  were 
of     the     scarlet     Linum     grandiflorum,    dwarf 
Jacobsea,   Coreopsis    Drummondii  and  C.    tinc- 
toria,  Swan  River    Daisy,   Phlox  Drummondii, 
Esohscholtzia  crooea.  Love-lies-bleeding,  Candy- 
tufts, &c.     The  plan  is  to  vary  the  subjects  used 
every  year,   and  the  gardener   says   it   is   the 
most  attractive  spot  to  the  visitors  that  his  place 
presents.     I  can  fully  recommend  this  style  of 
garden  decoration  to  all  who  have  long  borders 
to  fill  where  cost  is  a  consideration,  as  these  seeds 
are  very  cheap. — George  Bustard,  Maidstone. 

Where  to   obtain    the    Vinegar 

Plant. — The  Vinegar  Plant  is  a  fungus  often 
found  in  old  cider  casks.  Place  it  on  a  mixture 
of  sugar,  treacle  and  water,  cover  with  paper, 
and  keep  in  a  warm,  dark  place.  In  about  six 
weeks  the  plant  will  have  cevered  the  mixture, 
when  it  can  be  removed  and  the  mixture  boiled 
and  bottled  for  use. — Miss  B.,  Dorset. 


K 


IRISH     NOTES. 

Ashbourne,  close  by  Queenstown  Junc- 
tion, is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
gardens  in  the  South  of  Ireland  for 
hardy  shrubs,  herbaceous  plants  and 
alpines.  Mr.  R.  Beamish,  the  owner, 
ably  assisted  by  his  gardener,  Mr. 
Hume,  has  in  eight  or  nine  yeirs  planned  a 
garden  on  a  generous  scale,  and  by  skill  and 
foresight  an  old  quarry  has  now  become  one  of 
the  finest  rock  gardens  in  Ireland.  Here  one 
sees  the  best  of  the  alpines  grown  as  they  ought 
to  be  where  spice  will  allow,  i.e.,  in  masses 
several  yards  across.  In  early  July  Campanula 
Wilsonii,  C.  garganica,  dwarf  Erigerons, 
Dianthus  and  other  plants  were  just  masses  of 
colour.  Campanula  lanata  was  just  opening  its 
cream-coloured  flowers  ;  its  habit  is  very  distinct, 
something  similar  to  a  young  Fir  2  feet  high. 
Its  biennial  character  is  a  drawback,  but  a  group 
of  thirty  or  forty  young  plants  should  make  a 
good  show  there  next  year. 

One  side  of  the  rock  garden  was  originally 
a  bare,  steep  rock  40  feet  or  so  high.  Soil 
was  placed  in  the  crevices  where  possible,  and 
Dianthus  and  other  free-growing  subjects  were 
sown  in  the  crevices.      The  result  is  that  the 


HYDKANGEA  GROWING  IN  A  TUB  IN  A  KENT  GARDEN. 

rocks  are  studded  with  flowers  and  greenery  ;  a 
small  stream  flowing  from  the  top  of  the  rooks 
appears  and  disappears  in  a  pleasing  manner 
until  it  is  finally  lost  in  a  small  bog  garden  at  the 
bottom.  In  one  part,  at  the  base,  climbers  clothe 
the  huge  bare  slabs  of  rock  vpith  their  drapery. 
Among  the  climbers  one  may  well  be  surprised 
to  see  a  grand  specimen  of  Mandevilla  suave- 
olens,  the  numerous  flower-heads  giving  promise 
of  a  glorious  show.  A  walk  leading  upwards 
commands  a  view  of  the  whole  rookery  and 
takes  one  to  a  promising  collection  of  young 
conifers,  where  an  interesting  trial  is  being  made 
to  test  the  hardiness  of  some  of  the  newer 
Mexican  Pines. 

Near  to  the  entrance  of  the  garden  is  a  scene 
almost  sub-tropical.  Here  Cordyline  australis 
and  its  varieties  have  been  planted  along  with 
Yuccas  and  Kniphofia  Northise.  The  latter 
makes  a  bold  plant  for  this  kind  of  grouping  ; 
many  seedling  forms  were  bearing  spikes  of 
flowers  6  feet  high.  Here  one  sees  a  thriving 
specimen  of  the  true  and  rare  Cordyline  indivisa ; 
the  mature  leaves  are  often  8  inches  broad.  A 
bed  is  formed  of  Cordyline  Banksii  erythrorachis, 
and  it  well  deserves  the  varietal  name,  for  the 
midrib  is  a  bright  red  and  it  is  a  superior  plant 
for  garden  purposes  than  the  type.  Japanese 
Iris  flourish  by  the  water-side  ;  flowers  of  many 
hues,  some  measuring  8  inches  or  9  inches  in 


diameter,  testify  how  they  enjoy  the  sun  and  mild 
South  of  Ireland  climate.  Mr.  Beamish  has 
started  to  raise  seedlings  of  the  Japanese  Iris  so 
as  to  maintain  his  stock  strong  and  vigorous. 

On  the  banks  of  a  small  stream  are  many 
treasures,  with  shrubs  growing  towards  the  top. 
Here  it  was  with  great  pleasure  that  I  saw  that 
rather  difficult  subject,  Castilleja  miniata,  doing 
really  well.  Nicholson  accounts  for  the  difficulty 
of  culture  by  the  more  or  less  parasitic  habit  of 
the  plant.  Nevertheless,  it  is  a  subject  which  is 
worth  taking  some  trouble  to  establish.  The 
plant  reaches  2  feet  in  height  and  bears  raoemes 
of  yellow  flowers,  but  the  large  bracts  are  the 
showy  part.  These  are  of  such  a  brilliant  scarlet 
that  few  hardy  plants  can  compare  in  colour. 

Mr.  Beamish  describes  with  enthusiasm  his 
perseverance  in  the  culture  of  Linn  sea  borealis. 
It  is  now  a  thriving  plant  5  feet  or  6  feet  across, 
and  looks  as  happy  as  one  could  wish.  He 
accounts  for  his  success  by  planting  it  above  the 
water-level  in  peaty  soil,  but  in  a  place  where 
the  roots  can  reach  the  moisture  of  the  stream 
in  dry  weather.  In  pockets  formed  by  stones 
well  above  the  water-level  Shortia  galacifolia  and 
S.  uniflora  seemed  quite  at  home. 

Close  to  the  water-side  that  curious  Aroid, 
Lysichitum  oamtsohatcense,  from  North  America 
was  in  flower  and  fruit.  The  Bulgarian 
Primula  deorum  and  the  Chinese 
Primula  Poissoni  showed  by  their 
vigour  how  they  enjoyed  the  water- 
side. A  group  of  the  Japanese  Musa 
Basjoo  was  very  fine,  but  it  is  only  in 
such  favoured  spots  as  Southern  Ireland 
and  Cornwall  that  it  has  any  pretension 
of  being  hardy.  On  a  sloping  sunny 
bank  was  a  mass  of  that  glorious 
annual,  Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca, 
20  feet  or  more  across,  creating  a  blaze 
of  colour. 

The  Eremuri  in  Mr.  Beamish's  garden 
were  a  surprise,  and  should  create  a 
sensation  when  shown  in  a  year  or  two. 
They  are  hybrids  or  seedling  forms  of 
Eremurus  Warei,  ranging  from  7  feet 
to  9  feet  high,  and  as  yet  are  unnamed. 
One  has  beautiful  clear  lemon  yellow 
flowers ;  another  has  flowers  of  a  bright 
lively  yellow  ;  while  a  third,  which  is 
flowering  for  the  first  time,  has  flowers 
of  an  apricot  yellow  with  bright  orange- 
coloured  stamens.     They  form  a  most 
choice  and  telling  group  among  some 
shrubs,  and  are  a  decided  advance  on 
the  usual  yellow  forms.    The  individual 
flowers  are  about  1  inch  to  IJ  inches  in 
diameter.     The  Rose  pergola  was  very  bright ; 
Yews  alternate  on  arches  with  the  Roses  to  relieve 
the  bareness  in  winter.  A  good  climbing  Rose  with 
clusters  of  double  white  flowers  formed  a  mass 
several  yards  through,  and  was  covered  with 
flowers.      Mr.  T.  Smith  of  Newry  is  sending  this 
Rose  out  under  the  name  of  Ashbourne  White. 

The  collection  of  shrubs  is  a  good  one,  includ- 
ing many  novelties  and  plants  which  one  seldom 
sees  in  the  open,  as  for  instance,  Hovenia  dulois, 
Mallotus  japonicus,  Meliosma  myriantha,  Ceroo- 
carpus  parvifolius  (betulaBfolius),  a  rosaceous 
shrub  from  Cilifornia,  5  feet  high,  in  ap- 
pearance rather  like  an  evergreen  Beech  ;  and 
C.  Trakiaa,  still  more  uncommon,  is  represented 
by  a  small  specimen.  Two  members  of  the 
Natural  Order  proteacese  were  making  good 
progress  outside.  Guevina  avellana  is  a  distinct 
evergreen  shrub  from  Chili,  with  stiff,  pinnate 
leaves  composed  of  five  or  six  pairs  of  leaflets  ; 
the  young  shoots  and  leaves  are  covered  with 
reddish  velvety  hairs.  L-jmatia  ferruginea  was 
in  flower  ;  the  raceme  is  pendulous  and  the 
flowers  are  rather  curious  ;  they  are  more  open 
than  the  usual  Grevillea  type,  in  colour  yellow 
and  red.  The  garden  is  a  splendid  example  of 
what  can  be  done  in  a  comparatively  short  time 
when  the  owner  takes  a  keen  interest  in  his 
plants,  and  when  both  master  and  man  work 
together  in  harmony.  C-  F.  Ball. 


420 


THE    GARDEN 


[August  28,  1909. 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN 

AMONG    THE    ROSES. 

FOLLOWING  my  remarks  which 
appeared  on  page  414  of  list  week's 
isbue,  I  now  give  particulars  of  Roses 
that  have  done  well  with  me  this 
year  : 

Bhea  Reid  is  one  of  the  finest  new 
Roses.  It  possesses  good  growth,  fine  and  very 
healthy  foliage,  the  flower  is  carried  on  a  stiff 
stalk,  ,of,good  size,  perfect  shape  and  is  one  of 
the  deepest  reds  we  have. 
Although  only  procurable 
this  spring  I  do  not 
hesitate  to  give  it  every 
praise.  It  blooms  per- 
sistently and  is  excep- 
tionally fragrant. 

Lyon,  another  new 
variety,  also  stands  well 
ahead  during  its  first 
season.  Like  the  former, 
it  15  free  in  growth  and 
flower,  very  sweet, 
thoroughly  distinct  in 
colouring  from  any  other 
and,  so  far,  has  kept 
free  from  mildew.  Both 
possess  that  stout, 
leathery  foliage  that 
fights  against  disease, 
and  are  certain  to  be  in 
the  smallest  collections 
in  a  short  time.  This 
Rose  is  difficult  to  de- 
Boribe  —  crab  red,  with 
deeper  coral  red  in  centre, 
touched  here  and  there 
with  fiery  salmon  and 
chrome.  It  also  reminds 
OOP  of  the  deep  glow  seen 
n  a  bright  coke  fire. 
'J'hose  who  know  Soleil 
d'Or,  one  of  its  parents, 
will  recognise  what  I 
mean. 

Lady  Helen  Vincent 
resembles  a  deeper  and 
better  form  of  Dean 
Hole  ;  the  base  of  the 
putals  is  sufiiised  with 
more  peach  and  yellow.  A 
grand  exhibition  variety. 

Queen  oj  Spain, 
although  not  so  new, 
should  not  be  omitted. 
It  resembles  a  greatly 
improved  Bessie  Brown. 
Unlike  that  Rose,  it  does 
not  bend  its  head  at  all,  ia  always  of  good  form ;  a 
pearly  white,  slightly  touched  with  soft  pink.  It 
has  one  fault,  however— if  mildew  is  to  be  found 
anywhere  in  the  garden  it  is  on  this  otherwise 
grand  Rose. 

IV.  E.  Lippiat  has  been  pleasing.  This  is  a 
brilliant  velvety  crimson,  shaded  with  deep 
maroon  ;  well-pointed  centre,  very  sweet-scented 
and  grows  well. 

Dorothy  PageSoberta.—Tbia  is  of  the  same 
form,  but  larger  than  Lady  Battersea  and  suffused 
with  much  more  copper  and  apricot  yellow.  A 
very  large-petalled  and  fragrant  variety. 

Hcarlate  has  been  the  brightest  of  all  the 
bedding  Roses  ;  it  is  a  pure  scarlet  throughout, 
very  free,  produces  large  trusses,  sweet-scented 
and  makes  an  even  bed  that  is  aglow  with  colour 
all  through  the  season.  I  like  this  Rose  very  much. 
It  appears  to  possess  Camoens  and  Marquis  of 
Salisbury  habit,  but  is  better  than  either. 

Climbing  Oecile,  Brnnner  will  prove  very  useful. 
This  blooms  more  freely  than  the  normal  variety, 
and  I  think  it  has  a  little  larger  flower.  The 
truiaes  ar*  large  and  it  has  been  very  showy  here. 

Betty  potsesses  some  of  the  largest  petals  of 
any  Rose.     Although  not  so  numerous  as  some 


would  like  in  an  exhibition  flower,  it  makes  a 
serviceable  bloom,  always  opens  well  and  remains 
showy  a  longer  time  after  expansion  than  most. 
A  clear  coppery  red  overlaid  with  pure  salmon  ; 
very  beautiful  late  in  the  season. 

Lena  is  a  pretty,  well-formed  bud  of  great 
length.  It  is  carried  in  trusses  of  twelve  to 
twenty,  is  in  bloom  all  the  season  and  is  a  capital 
bedder.  A  unique  colouring  of  glowing  apricot, 
paling  to  primrose  with  age. 

Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  is  a  Rose  that  has  come  to 
stay.  A  vigorous  and  free-branching  habit,  the 
blooms  carried    well  above    the    foliage,    very 


Faire,  both  so  much  alike  that  I  fail  to  see  any 
difierence,  although  procured  direct  from  the 
raisers  and  growing  side  by  side.  Atlas  and 
Mina  Barbanson  also  favour  these  very  much. 
I  am  convinced  I  could  cut  flowers  from  all  four 
of  these  that  would  fit  for  either  name  and 
puzzle  the  actual  raisers  to  detect  the  difference. 
There  has  been  a  great  increase  among  the 
rampant  climbers,  mostly  in  the  newer  class  of 
wiohuraianas.  Many  of  these  are  so  nearly  alike 
that  we  did  not  need  them  ;  but  a  few  are  good 
and  I  should  choose  the  following  as  the  best. 
There  are  few  prettier  Roses  than  tall  standard 
stems  with  drooping 
Roses  flowing  over  like 
the  scarlet  Thorns  and 
Laburnums.  On  the 
lawn  as  single  specimens, 
or  dotted  about  here  and 
there  upon  grass  plats, 
they  are  magnificent. 
^Euphrosyne  is  a  soft 
rose  -  coloured  form  of 
Crimson  Rambler,  and 
very  suitable  for  this 
purpose.  The  old  Crim- 
son Rambler  produces 
too  upright  a  growth  to 
look  so  well. 

Stella,  a  new  vivid 
carmine,  single,  produced 
in  large  trusses  the  whole 
length  of  the  shoots, 
with  very  showy  stamens, 
lasts  a  long  time  and  ends 
with  a  wonderful  show 
of  pretty  heps  in  the  late 
summer. 

Wedding  Bells  is  white, 
only  sometimes  touched 
with   soft    pink   on  the 


THE  NEW  NYMPII.-Ei  STELLATA  EARL  OF   WARWICK.     {Reduced  one-fourth.     See  page 


fragrant  and  one  of  the  best  rosy  yellows  we 
have.  It  has  splashes  of  salmon  and  saffron  that 
make  it  altogether  distinct  from  others,  and  is  a 
good  all-round  variety  for  any  purpose. 

Mnie.  Simone  Beaumez  is  a  welcome  button-hole 
Rose  or  for  vase  decoration.  The  stalks  are 
long ;  so,  too,  are  the  buds.  Flowers  bright 
shining  white,  shaded  with  saffron  yellow. 

Lately  we  have  had  more  than  one  name 
attached  to  the  same  variety,  and  some  are 
rather  confusing.  For  example,  we  have  Maman 
Levavasseur,  Baby  Dorothy  and  Phyllis  that  are 
synonymous.  [No,  Phyllis  is  distinct. — Ed.] 
This  is  really  a  very  dwarf  and  perpetual- 
flowering  form  of  Djrothy  Perkins.  Then  we 
have  Maman  N.  Levavasseur,  Baby  Rambler 
and  Dwarf  Crimson  Rambler.  The  latter 
name  affords  these  three  a  good  description  ; 
they  are  identical.  Lily  Ito,  a  newer  climber, 
is  so  much  like,  if  not  quite  identical  with, 
F^licite  Perpetue  that  we  shall  only  grow  the 
older  variety  ;  while  of  the  Dwarf  Polyanthas 
we  must  not  miss  Mrs.  W.  J.  Cutbush,  a  very 
clear  flesh  and  deep  pink,  distinct  from  Baby 
Dorothy  and,  I  think,  a  little  clearer.  Lately, 
too,    we    have   had    Joseph    Lowe   and    Lady 


Debutante  is  much 
softer  in  colour  than 
1  )orothy  Perkins,  but  we 
must  still  include  this 
old  favourite. 

Hiawatha  is  a  deep 
crimson,  with  a  touch  of 
white  at  the  base  of  the 
petals.  The  flowers  are 
borne  in  immense  trusses, 
last  an  extra  long  time 
and  are  as  perpetual  as 
the  Teas. 

Minnehaha  grows  a 
little  stronger  than 
Dorothy  Perkins,  has 
much  larger  and  deeper- 
coloured  flowers,  better- 
shaped  trusses  and  is  a 

decided   improvement.     It   also  blooms  a  little 

later  and  gives  a  better  late  crop. 
Sussex.  A.  P. 


'■) 


TWO    GOOD    NEW    ROSES. 
MM.   Pernet-Ddcher  have  sent  out  so  many 
beautiful  Roses  that  anything  fresh  from  them 
can  be  relied  on  more  than  from  most  of  the  Conti- 
nental growers. 

Arthur  E.  Ooodwin  is  one  of  their  latest 
novelties.  In  growth  it  somewhat  resembles  the 
Lyon  Rose,  but  is  not  quite  so  stout  with  us  yet. 
It  is  very  free,  and  flowers  from  every  side  shoot 
from  the  maiden  stage  upwards.  It  is  not  so  large 
as  Lyon,  and,  I  think,  a  little  longer  in  the  budf ; 
quite  distinct  in  colour — a  coppery  orange  and 
red,  with  a  good  flush  of  the  shrimp  pink 
found  in  a  bright-coloured  Lyon  Rose ;  while 
none  can  beat  it  for  scent. 

Crepuscule. — In  growth  this  much  resembles 
L'Ideal,  but  is  hardier  with  me,  almost  as 
much  so  as  the  wichuraianas.  The  colour  is 
buff-yellow,  suffused  with  salmon,  and  quite 
distinct.  The  medium-sized  flowers  are  borne  in 
clusters  and  very  sweetly  scented.  P. 


August  28,  1909.] 


THE    GAKDEN. 


421 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

METHODS   OF  RENOVATING  VINES. 

TO  amateur  gardeners  generally  the  idea 
of  overhauling  the  borders  before  the 
leaves  have  fallen  and  the  current 
year's  growth  attained  full  maturity 
may  seem  a  somewhat  risky  operation, 
and  that  is  one  reason,  I  believe,  why 
we  so  rarely  see  Vine  borders  under  renewal  from 
the  end  of  July  and  onwards,  excepting  in  large 
establishments  where  they  are  under  the  care  of 
a  skilful  professional.  However,  providing  a  few 
details  are  properly  observed  and  the  work 
carried  forward  expeditiously,  there  need  be  no 
risk,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  a  great  benefit  will 
result  and  much  valuable  time  be  gained  so  far  as 
the  following  year's  growth  is  concerned. 

Vineries  may  be  classed  under  three  heads, 
viz.,  early,  intermediate  and  late.  Early  vineries 
are  those  which  are  started  into  growth  during 
the  latter  days  of  autumn  or  early  winter,  to  pro- 
vide fruit  for  early  June  gathering ;  intermediate 
vineries  are  usually  started  early  in  the  New 
Year,  from  mid-January  to  mid-February,  and 
come  into  bearing  during  July  and  August ;  and 
late  vineries  are  those  which  are  generally 
allowed  to  start  into  growth  of  their  own  accord, 
with  as  little  artificial  heat  as  possible,  a  condi- 
tion usually  adhered  to  during  the  whole  period 
of  growth,  so  that  the  crop  may  be  kept  back  as 
long  as  possible. 

Now,  of  all  the  vineries  which  require  the 
most  attention  to  secure  yearly  a  good  crop  of 
Grapes,  the  early  vinery  is  the  one  most  likely  to 
sufier  from  inattention  to  details  in  culture, 
which  is  necessarily  different  in  many  ways  on 
account  of  the  time  in  which  the  Vines  have  to 
make  growth,  flower  and  produce  a  crop  of 
fruit.  Bays  are  short,  sunshine  may  be  out 
of  the  question  for  days,  and  even  weeks, 
and  the  general  conditions  prevailing,  together 
with  forced  growth  under  artificial  heat,  put  a 
severe  strain  on  the  Vines,  which  must  be  counter- 
balanced at  the  earliest  opportunity  if  success  is  to 
be  looked  for  as  each  year  begins  afresh.  There- 
fore, in  the  case  of  the  early  vinery,  to  wait 
until  all  the  foliage  is  off  and  the  rods  at  rest 
before  applying  new  soil  to  the  borders  and 
making  a  thorough  examination  of  the  roots  is 
not  the  best  method  of  ensuring  future  success. 

The  fruit  in  early  vineries  is  usually  cleared 
off  by  the  end  of  July  or  early  in  August,  but  a 
few  remaining  bunches  will  not  deter  the  enter- 
prising gardener  from  making  an  examination  of 
his  holders  and  Vine  roots  about  this  time  of 
the  year.  The  new  compost  should  be  mixed 
read}',  and  consist  of  four  barrow-loads  of  good 
fibrous  loam  chopped  roughly,  one  barrow-load  of 
sweetened  manure,  one  barrow-load  of  wood- 
ashes,  half  a  barrow-load  of  mortar  rubble  passed 
through  a  half-inch  sieve,  a  6  inch  potful  of 
bone-meal,  or  other  good  fertiliser,  to  each 
barrow-load,  and  half  a  hundredweight  of  half- 
inch  bones  to  the  whole,  mixing  all  well  together 
by  turning  not  less  than  three  times.  Observe 
the  proportions  given  above,  whether  the  heap 
required  be  large  or  small. 

It  is  best,  if  possible,  to  renew  half  a  border 
one  year  and  the  other  half  in  the  year  following. 
Commence  by  taking  off  the  top  soil  at  the  point 
furthest  from  the  base  of  the  rods,  using  a  fork 
and  gently  pricking  and  prising  the  soil  from 
among  the  roots,  preserving  all  from  injury  as 
much  as  possible.  All  roots  should  be  carried 
backwards  out  of  the  way  as  they  are  unearthed, 
and  they  should  be  kept  sprayed  with  tepid 
water  and  covered  with  wet  sacks  or  mats  until 
ready  to  be  placed  in  the  new  soil  again.  It  will 
be  found  in  most  Vine  borders  that  many  of  the 
roots,  from  the  thickness  of  a  lead  pencil  to  a 
man's  finger,  will  have  run  several  feet  with- 
out producing  any  fibres,  and  the  present 
operation  presents  a  very  favourable  opportunity 
to  increase  the  desirable  rootlets  to  the 
lasting  benefit  of  the  Vines.    When  replacing  the 


roots  in  the  new  soil,  make  tongues  about 
IS  inches  apart  in  these  bare  roots  with  a  sharp 
knife  on  the  under-side,  the  cut  to  go  halfway 
through  the  root  and  about  2  inches  long.  Keep 
the  cut  open  by  placing  a  chip  of  slate  or  crock 
between,  and  lay  a  good  handful  of  silver  sand 
over  it  when  placed  in  position.  New  rootlets 
will  push  out  from  these  tongues  as  they  become 
callused  over,  and  the  border  will  soon  be  full  of 
feeders,  extracting  their  full  share  of  the  good 
food  put  there  for  their  benefit.  Should  the 
weather  be  very  sunny  on  the  completion  of  the 
renewals,  a  light  shading  may  be  necessary  for  a 
week  or  two,  and  the  Vines  should  be  sprinkled 
lightly  to  freshen  them  up.  The  roots  will  soon 
take  hold  of  the  new  compost,  and  long  before 
the  Vines  have  gone  to  rest  a  good  foundation 
will  have  been  secured  on  which  the  new  crop 
will  attain  success. 

Intermediate  and  late  vineries  may  be  treated 
in  a  similar  manner  if  the  fruit  is  quickly 
cleared  from  the  rods  ;  but  if  left  hanging  for  a 
considerable  time  after  once  ripe,  it  is  best  to 
leave  renewals  alone  until  all  the  foliage  is  off 
and  the  Vines  are  quite  at  rest.         Midland. 

THE     KITCIjEN     GARDEN. 

A   GOOD    MAINCROP    PEA. 

THE    maincrop    Pea    named     Senator    is 
not    grown    nearly    as    much    as    its 
merits  deserve,   as  in  addition  to   its 
wonderful  cropping   qualities  it  is  one 
of    the    best  -  flavoured    Peas     grown,     and    I 
find     that    in     some    counties    it     is     known 


THE   FLOWER  GARDEN. 


DAFFODIL    NOTES. 

DOUBTLESS  there  are  some  readers 
of  The  Gardek  who  have  only 
lately  fallen  victims  to  the  fashion- 
able and  fascinating  hobby  of 
growing  Daffodils,  and  such,  1 
think,  will  be  glad  of  a  few  hints 
and  suggestions  of  an  elementary  kind. 
How  TO  Begin. 
The  very  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  buy  a 
copy  of  the  two  best  books  on  the  Daffodil,  viz., 
(I)  the  late  Kev.  S.  E.  Bourne's  "Book  of  the 
Daffodil,"  published  by  John  Line,  price 23.  6d. — 
this  deals  with  their  cultural  requirements  very 
fully  and,  at  the  same  time,  familiarises  the 
reader  with  the  various  types  of  flower  and  their 
structure  ;  (2)  "  The  Latest  Hobby,"  issued  by 
Cartwright  and  Goodwin  as  part  of  their  first 
bulb  list  in  1908 — this  gives  exhaustive  informa- 
tion about  raising  seedlings  and  crossing  the 
different  varieties  so  as  to  secure  the  best  results. 
This  may  be  out  of  print,  but  if  it  is  I  would 
suggest  that  a  second  edition  be  issued  soon. 
Books  do  not  take  the  place  of  a  practical 
acquaintance  with  the  growth  of  plants,  but,  all 
the  same,  we  can  get  a  very  great  deal  of  useful 
information  from  them. 

The  next  thing  is  to  select  a  suitable  position 
in  the  garden  for  the  beds.  In  doing  this  we 
must  remember  that  Daffodils  do  not  like  any 
place  where  it  is  very  hot  and  dry,  nor,  on  the 
other  hand,  do  they  like  a  place  where  the  sun 
never  comes  or  where  they  are  expofcd  to  all  the 


A    GOOD    CHOP   OF   PEA    SE.N'ATOK. 


under  the  name  of  Improved  Charles  I.  It  is  a 
great  favourite  in  gardens  where  tall  Peas 
cannot  be  grown,  as  it  only  reaches  a  height  of 
from  2J  feet  to  3  feet,  and  the  pods,  which  are  a 
beautiful  green,  are  packed  with  Peas,  each 
containing  eight  to  ten.  As  shown  in  the 
illustration,  it  is  a  wonderful  cropper.  The  pods 
are  long  and  narrow,  and  are  packed  so  firmly 
that  the  yield  is  very  great.  I  have  referred  to 
it  as  a  maincrop,  but  in  the  Midland  and 
Northern  Counties  I  have  had  excellent  results 
on  open  borders  when  this  variety  wag  sown  for 
an  early  supply,  as  it  is  very  hardy  and  not 
readily  influenced  by  severe  weather.  For 
autumn  supplies  it  is  most  valuable,  owing  to  its 
dwarf  habit  and  free-cropping  properties.  For 
Ihis  purpose  it  may  be  sow  n  in  July  on  an  open,  ' 
sunny  border.  G.  W.  B.      ' 


cold  winds  of  spring.  I  am  a  great  believer  in 
the  value  of  double  digging.  Our  pets  like  a 
good  rootrun,  and  the  greater  the  depth  of  soil 
that  we  can  give  them  the  better.  A  aonvenient 
width  for  the  beds  is  either  4  feet  or  3  feet 
6  inches,  and  the  alleys  between  them  may  be 
15  inches.  I  must  repeat  the  old  familiar  advice 
never  to  use  fresh  farmyard  manure  in  the  soil. 
Bone-meal  is  the  best  and  safest  food  to  use.  It 
may  be  dug  in  the  top  spit  when  the  beds  are 
being  prepared. 

Some  Details  or  Cilture. 

An  important  point  is  always  to  plant  as  early 
as  possible.  This  is  one  of  the  secrets  of  having 
fine  large  blooms,  and  it  is  also  better  for  the 
health  of  the  bulbs.  I  do  not  suppose  either  Mr. 
P.  D.  Williams  or  Mr.   E.   M.   Crosfield,  two  of 


422 


THE     GARDEN. 


[August  28,  1909 


our  greatest  cultivators,  ever  have  their  choicest 
varieties  out  of  the  ground  on  August  Bank 
Holiday.  Another  detail  is  to  leave  enough 
space  between  the  rows  to  allow  a  small  hoe  to 
be  worked  at  frequent  intervals.  Stirring  the 
surface  of  the  ground  is  most  beneficial,  as  it 
aerates  the  soil  and  conserves  moisture. 

As  a  general  rule,  bulbs  may  remain  undis- 
turbed for  two  or  three  or  even  four  years. 
After  that  time  they  will  be  better  for  a  change, 
for  if  they  are  doing  well  they  will  be  getting 
crowded,  and  if  they  are  not 
transplanting  may  give  them  a 
new  lease  of  life. 

Daffodils  may  be  planted  at  a 
depth  which  allows  from  4  inches 
to  5  inches  from  the  top  of  the 
bulb  to  the  level  of  the  ground  in 
the  case  of  the  larger  kinds,  and 
about  1  inch  less  for  the  smaller 
ones.  In  exceptionally  light  soils 
1  inch  or  2  inches  deeper  would 
very  likely  be  beneficial. 

Wh.\t  to  Buy. 

In  compiling  the  list  which 
follows  I  have  tried  to  imagine 
myself  without  a  single  Daffodil, 
and  that  then  I  have  selected  the 
fifty  varieties  that  I  would  buy 
to  form  my  first  collection  if  I 
were  not  to  give  more  than  23. 
for  any  single  bulb.  As  all  the 
varieties  enumerated  are  to  be 
found  in  the  ordinary  trade  lists 
of  those  firms  who  make  a 
speciality  of  Narcissi,  I  am  not 
giving  any  detailed  description, 
but  simply  grouping  the  different 
types  more  or  less  together,  which 
will  give  a  general  idea  of  what 
individual  varieties  are  like. 

Yellow  trumpets.  —  Emperor, 
Glory  of  Leiden,  Maximus,  Golden 
Bell,  P.  R  Barr  and  Queen  of 
Spain  (Johnstonii). 

White  trumpets.  —  Mme.  de 
Graaff. 

Bicolor  trumpets.  —  Apricot, 
Empress,  J.  B.  M.  Camm,  Victoria 
and  Mrs.  W.  T.  Ware. 

Cups  with  yellow  perianths. — 
Autocrat,  Blackwell,  Gloria 
Mundi,  Barri  conspicuus.  Fire- 
brand, Torch,  Leonie,  Sir  Watkin, 
Frank  Miles,  Beauty,  Blood 
(orange  and  Flamingo. 

Gups  with  white  perianths. — 
Albatross,  Lucifer,  Citron, 
Duchess  of  Westminster,  White 
Lady,  Ariadne,  Lulworth, 
I'orothy  Wemyss,  M.  M.  de 
Graaff,  Minnie  Hume,  Artemis, 
Waterwitch,  Crown  Prince  and 
Flora  Wilson. 

Eyes. — Ornatus,  Homer, 
Horace,  Cassandra,  Recur  vus, 
Eyebright  and  Comus. 

Doubles. — Argent,  Orange 
Phcenix  and  Golden  Phoenix. 

Bunch  ■  flowered.  —  Elvira 
(Poetaz)  and  Campernelle  Jon- 
quils (Rugulosus  variety). 

I  have  roughly  added  up  the 
cost  of  this  collection,  and  I  think 
I  might  venture  to  say  that  any 
dealer  would  supply  one  bulb  of  eacnof  the  above 
fifty  varieties  for  about  28s.  6d.  to  30s.,  and  that 
if  three  or  six  of  a  sort  were  ordered  there  would 
be  a  proportionate  reduction.      Joseph  Jacob. 

nymphtEa  stellata  earl  of 

WARWICK. 
This  is  a  very  beautiful  variety  of  the  well- 
known    and    popular    Water    Lily,    Nymph»a 
btellata,  the  colour  being  a  plenaing  shade  of  rrse 


piuk.  It  was  shown  before  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  on  the  3rd  inst.  by  the  Earl  of 
Warwick,  when  it  received  an  award  of  merit. 


THE     HOARY     MULLEIN. 
(Veubascdm  pulverclentum.  ) 
The  Mulleins  are    steadily    assuming    a    more 
important  position  in  our  gardens,  their  distinct 
character  and  generally  imposing  spikes  of  flowers 
making  them  accoptihle  in  many  positions.     The 


stature  may  be  judged  from  the  fact  that  the 
wall  is  6  feet  high.     It  is  one  of  the  descendants 
of  plants   originally  raised  from  seeds  sent  me 
from  Bithynia,  and  which  were  pronounced  to  be 
V.  pulverulentum,  said  to  be  also  a  native  of 
Great  Britain.     The  height  of  our  native  plant 
is  given  by  Babington  as  3  feet,  but  it  is  seldom 
that  the  plants   in   my  garden  are  so  small  in 
stature,  and  they  are  generally  from  6  feet  to 
9  feet  high.     The  finest  plants  are  from  self-sown 
seeds,   the  seedlings    being  allowed  to  remain 
where  they  appear.      The  defect 
of  this  Mullein  is  that  it  is  usually 
a  biennial,  the  seedlings  of  one 
year  blooming  the  next  and  dying 
after  they  flower ;  but  occasionally 
the  seedlings  will  bloom  the  first 
year,  and  sometimes  a  plant  which 
has  flowered  will  make  growths 
at  the  base  and  may  survive  for 
another  year  or  two.     Self-sown 
seedlings  are  produced  freely,  and 
these  can  either  be  allowed  to 
remain  or  may  be   transplanted 
to  where  they  are  intended  to 
bloom,  or   even  into  the  reserve 
garden,  where  they  can  stay  until 
the  position  they  are  to  occupy 
is  ready  for  them.     They  should, 
however,   if  at  all  possible,    be 
planted  in  their  flowering  quarters 
in  autumn  in  preference  to  spring. 
Verbascum  pulverulentum  seems 
to  prefer  a  rather  dry  and  free 
soil,  and  it  will  even  grow  well 
by  the  edge   of   a   gravel  walk, 
sending  up  there,  as  well  as  in 
the  border,  its  towering,  branch- 
ing spikes  of  yellow  flowers  with 
scarlet  stamens  and  white  hairs  in 
the    centre.      I    prefer  it   to   V. 
olympioum,  the  spikes  being  more 
leafy  and  the  whole  plant  more 
attractive. 
Dumfries.  S.  Arnott. 


THE  HOARY  MOLLEIN  (VEBBASCnM  PULVERULENTUM)  IN  A  SCOTTISH  GARDEN 


number  of  species  is  large,  and  within  compara- 
tively recent  times  quite  a  number  of  hybrids 
have  been  introduced  into  commerce.  Some  of 
the  species  and  several  of  the  hybrids  are  of 
extremely  imposing  appearance  when  well  culti- 
vated and  in  suitable  places,  their  bold,  branching 
or  simple  spikes  of  blossoms,  reared  well  above 

the  ot||er  occupants  of  the  border,  giving  to  the   grown  and  seen  it  in  the  gardens  of  my  friends, 

latter  quite  an  imposing  appearance.  is   in  somewhat  the   same  character,    but  is  a 

One  of  the  most  useful  in  my  garden  is  that   more  profuse  flowerer,  though  not  as  good  as  one 

shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration,  whose    could  wish,  either  in  this  direction  or  in  growth. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

New  Varieties. — I  brought  my 
last  notes  to  a  conclusion  in  a 
eulogy  of  Mrs.  Andrew  Ireland, 
and  my  particular  reason  for 
reminding  my  readers  of  the  fact 
is  simply  because  it  is  necessary 
to  make  a  comparison  between 
that  variety  and  Apple  Blossom 
Spencer.  I,  probably  with  many 
others,  thought  that  these  would 
prove  to  be  nearly,  or  quite,  iden- 
tical ;  but  this  is  not  the  case,  for 
the  base  colour  is  different,  and 
there  is  no  gainsaying  the  state- 
ment that  the  Englishwoman — or 
ought  I  to  say  Scottish  woman  ? 
— is  infinitely  the  better  of  the 
two  as  well  in  regard  to  trueness 
as  to  form  and  colour.  Apple 
Blossom  Spencer  may  therefore 
<lepart  with  King  Edward  Spencer 
and  The  King. 

Although  St.  George  has  been 
on  the  market  two  years  already, 
it  is,  perhaps,  permissible  to  speak 
of  it  here.     Last  season   it  was 
disappointing    in    the    extreme, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  it  devoted 
such  a  lot   of  its  energy   towards  the   develop- 
ment of  tendrils  that  it  forgot  that  its  mission 
in  life  was  to  produce  flowers.      To   be   brief, 
it    has  done  just  about    the    same    this  year, 
and   notwithstanding   its   undoubtedly  brilliant 
colour  from  some  growers,  it  is  much  to  be  feared 
that  it  will  have  to  go.     Kitty  Clive,  as  I  have 


August  28,  1909.J 


THE     GARDEN. 


423 


Nancy  Perkin  I  have  not  seen  sufficiently  to 
form  an  absolute  judgment  which  satisfies  myself, 
but  I  am  fast  reaching  the  conclusion  that  Earl 
Spencer  is  preferable.  I  should  not  like  to  say 
that  they  are  the  same  colour  or  the  same  form  ; 
but  they  are  so  close  that  the  two  are  not  wanted 
except  in  the  most  complete  collections,  and  my 
vote  is  for  Earl  Spencer. 

Princess  Victoria,  which,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, was  blessed  by  Royalty  at  the  Royal 
Botanic  Gardens  last  summer,  proves  to  be  a 
splendid  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykea.  Here  we  see  a 
little  trouble.  There  are  two  forms  of  Mrs. 
Sykes  in  commerce,  one  of  which  is  pale  in  colour 
and  the  other  much  richer  ;  it  is  the  latter,  and 
in  my  own  opinion  the  better,  that  Princess 
Victoria  resembles.  One  cannot  help  regretting 
that  the  two  forms  should  have  been  dis- 
tributed under  the  same  name,  as  it  must 
inevitably  lead  to  confusion,  in  which  an 
innocent  individual  or  firm  often  comes  in  for 
undeserved  censure.  Evelyn  Hemus  and  Mrs. 
C.  W.  Breadmore  are  so  close  that  no  one  need 
think  of  growing  the  two,  and  those  who 
favour  the  latter  will  not  go  astray.  Kathleen 
Macgowan  is  a  lovely  shade  of  lavender,  and  will 
find  many  admirers  next  season,  as,  indeed,  it 
has  done  this.  Lavender  George  Herbert  is  a 
most  unwieldy  name  ;  but  the  variety  is  good  if 
it  can  be  persuaded  to  come  within  measurable 
distance  of  trueness.  This  and  the  one  immedi- 
ately preceding  came  from  Breadmore. 

This  name  reminds  me  of  Etta  Dyke  and 
Audrey  Crier.  The  former  still  maintains  its 
proud  position  as  the  finest  exhibition  white, 
and  appears  likely  to  do  so  ;  the  only  one  that 
might  challenge  it  is  Florence  Wright,  but  this 
was  not  true  at  Reading,  there  being  waved  and 
smooth  forms  in  the  row.  When  quite  fixed  it 
should  be  welcome,  as  the  colour  is  pure  and 
solid  and  the  flower  large.  Harking  back  now 
to  Audrey  Crier,  one  speaks  of  the  most  glorious 
and  the  most  disappointing  of  varieties.  In 
perfect-form  condition  there  is  no  more  attrac- 
tive Sweet  Pea  in  cultivation ;  but,  unfortunately, 
it  seems  to  be  impossible  to  get  it  to  come 
true. 

One  which  caught  my  fancy  at  Reading  for  its 
colour  was  Marian  Cautley.  The  flower  is 
certainly  rather  on  the  small  side,  but  the  soft 
rose  overlying  buff  is  a  charming  shade  that  will 
light  up  splendidly  on  the  dinner-table,  and  for 
this  purpose  alone  will  ba  welcome.       Spencer. 


CAMPANULA  PUNCTATA. 
This  C^impanula  is  an  old  inhabitant  of  our 
gardens,  but  is  far  more  rarely  met  with  than  its 
merits  warrant,  seeing  what  a  noble  border  plant 
it  is,  for  when  its  ornamental  properties  are  con- 
sidered it  is  surprising  that  it  should  not  be 
widely  grown.  When  in  good  health  it  is  a 
vigorous  perennial  about  2  feet  in  height,  with 
large,  hairy,  cordate-ovate  leaves,  the  upper  ones 
being  sessile.  Its  beauty  consists  in  its  pendulous, 
bell-shaped  flowers,  which  are  fully  2  inches  in 
length.  As  a  rule  the  blossoms  are  white  in 
colour  and  are  spotted  internally  with  minute 
purple  dots.  In  some  cases,  however,  the  flowers 
are  of  a  delicate  rose  colour,  and  in  others  they 
are  violet.  The  white  form  is,  however,  the 
commonest,  and  is  perhaps  also  the  handsomest, 
for  large  clumps  over  3  feet  across,  such  as  that 
depicted  in  the  accompanying  illustration,  when 
covered  with  hundreds  of  their  large,  pendent, 
white  bells,  are  as  attractive  border  plants  as  can 
well  be  imagined.  In  the  shape  of  its  flowers, 
which  are  almost  Gloxinia-like,  it  bears  a  strong 
resemblance  to  the  hybrids  C.  Burghalti  and  C. 
Van  Houttei.  Should  it  show  signs  of  failing 
health,  it  should  be  at  once  lifted  and  replanted 
in  rich,  porous  compost.  The  colony  here  repre- 
sented, however,  has  been  in  its  present  position 
for  four  years,  and  at  present  shows  no  sign  of 
loss  of  vigour.  It  is  a  native  of  Siberia  and 
occurs  in  China,  Corea  and  also  in  Japan. 
South  Devon.  W.  Fitzherbert. 


COLOURED    PLATE. 

PLATE     1381. 


SOxME    GOOD    NEW    NARCISSI. 
Reflections  and  Descriptions. 

THE  blooms  which  are  pictured  in  the 
coloured  plate  are  very  characteristic 
of  the  Daffodil  autumn,  for  large- 
eyed  Engleheartiis  and  bright-eyed 
Poets  are  invariable  reminders,  like 
Hairbells  (should  it  be  Harebells?) 
and  Hard-heads  in  our  hedgerows,  that  the  feast 
of  summer  is  almost  over.  These  particular 
varieties  have  been  raised  by  the  Rev.  G.  H. 
Engleheart,  and  they  have  been  introduced  into 
commerce  by  Messrs.  Cartwright  and  Goodwin 
of  Kidderminster,  who  kindly  provided  the 
flowers  from  which  the  plate  was  made. 
A  propos  of  late-flowering  sorts,  it  is  interesting 
to  recall  a  conversation  I  had,  after  the  Midland 


however,  say  that  the  two  lovely  Poets,  Childe 
Harold  and  Oliver  Goldsmith,  are  excellent, 
medium-sized  flowers,  with  round,  smooth,  over- 
lapping petals  of  great  substance.  The  latter  I 
remember  seeing  this  year  at  Birmingham  in 
Messrs.  Cartwright  and  Goodwin's  first-prize 
collection  of  true  Poetious,  and  admired  it  very 
much.  Mariette  is  a  taking  flower,  which  will 
be  useful  to  hybridisers,  as  it  is  a  grand  pollen 
parent.  Coreen  was  exhibited  on  March  23 
last  at  Vincent  Square.  I  made  a  note  at  the 
time  that  it  was  a  very  good  variety  for  pot  work. 
It  has  a  crinkled,  much-expanded  cup,  tinted  on 
the  folds  and  at  its  edge  with  deep  orange.  It 
is  rather  expensive  as  yet ;  but  as  I  believe  it 
increases  very  quickly,  it  will  before  long 
become  cheap  enough  to  grow  under  glass. 
There  is  plenty  of  room  for  some  distinct  varieties 
that  are  suitable  for  this  purpose.  Like  Mariette, 
it  is  a  useful  plant  for  hybridisers,  as  it  is  an 
exceedingly  free  seeder.  I  have  left  Evangeline 
till  the  last,  because  if   I   had  begun    to  write 


CAMPANULA   PUNCTATA   GROWING   IN'   A  SOUTH   PEVON    GARDEN. 


Daffodil  Society's  annual  meeting  this  year,  with 
Mr.  Goodwin,  and  Mr.  Adams  of  Wolverhampton 
who  has  lately  raised  some  excellent  seedlings, 
notably  King-Cup,  a  grand  cupped  variety  after 
the  style  of  Homespun.  These  gentlemen  said 
that  they  had  seedlings  which  flowered  too  late 
for  the  shows,  and  that  it  would  be  difficult  to 
decide  how  best  to  exhibit  them.  I  know  that 
our  Dutch  friends,  too,  have  a  number  of  very 
late  new  sorts.  Probably  it  is  the  same  with 
most  people  who  are  raising  seedlings.  These 
facts,  I  would  suggest,  point  to  the  desirability 
of  having  a  late  northern  show,  which  might 
cater  for  its  own  immediate  locality  and,  at  the 
same  time,  provide  a  rendezvous  for  late  flowers 
from  elsewhere. 

In  describing  different  varieties  it  is  difficult 
to  convey  by  a  written  description  the  little 
differences  which  mark  them  off  from  others  very 
similar,  and  wherever  there  is  a  picture  of  them 
it  is  best  to  let  it  speak  for  itself.      I  would. 


about  it  and  let  myself  go,  I  feel  sure  I  would 
have  left  no  space  in  which  to  mention  the 
others.  All  that  I  have  written  about  its 
good  qualities  I  most  fully  endorse  now  that 
I  have  planted  it,  flowered  it,  taken  it  up 
and  planted  it  again  for  the  second  time.  It  is 
a  show  flower,  it  is  a  pot  flower,  and,  above  all, 
as  appealing  to  the  great  flower-loving  public, 
it  is  a  garden  flower.  Its  constitution,  its  at- 
tractive colouring,  the  fine  pose  and  carriage  of 
its  flowers,  mark  it  as  out  of  the  ordinary.  I 
originally  described  it  as  a  white  Homespun  ;  I 
think,  however,  a  bicolor  Homespun  would  be  more 
correct.  The  cup  is  of  a  beautiful  clear  yellow, 
and  the  well-formed  perianth  an  almost  pure 
white,  certainly  very  much  whiter  than  it  is 
represented  in  the  plate.  It  is  a  decided 
acquisition  to  the  ranks  of  our  very  best  Narcissi, 
and  I  congratulate  Messrs.  Cartwright  and 
Goodwin  on  their  being  the  sponsors  for  its 
introduction.  Joseph  Jacob. 


424 


THE    GARDEN. 


(August  28,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


PROPAGATING    ROSES    FROM    CUTTINGS. 


GARDEN    WORK     WEEK    BY     WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Mossy  lawns  are 
always  unsatisfactory  and  prove  very 
trying  to  the  person  who  lifies  to  have 
a  nice  green  lawn  of  closely  cut  grass. 
In  winter-time,  and,  indeed,  in  the 
spring,  too,  when  the  season  is  cool 
and  rains  are  frequent,  the  mossy  lawn  looks 
green  ;  but  very  soon    after  a  dry,   hot  period 


I— FORTIONS  OF  ROSE  GROWTHS  FROM  WHICH 
COTTINGS  C4N  BE  MADE.  HYBRID  TEA 
OV  THE  I.TFT  AND  WICHURAIANA  ON  THE 
RICIHT. 

comes  the  moss  shrivels  up  and  the  lawn  pre- 
sents a  brown  appearance.  I  have  seen  newly 
formed  banks  covered  with  turves  in  which 
there  was  little  else  besides  moss.  Even  in  the 
winter  it  looked  bad  ;  in  summer  it  was 
jiooitivply  ugly.  How  much  more  satisfactory  it 
Would  have  been  if  nice  grass  turves  had  been 
procured  and  laid  down  in  the  first  instance. 
Although  the  present  time  is  not  suitable  for  the 
lifting  or  relaying  of  turves,  a  great  deal  may  be 
done  towards  improving  lawns  where  moss  is 
growing  in  quantity.  Take  a  sharp-toothed  iron 
rake  and  collect  all  the  moss  possible ;  then 
vigorously  brush  the  lawn.  When  rain  comes 
the  grasses  will  have  a  chance  of  growing  again 
and  spreading  before  the  moss  can  do  bo. 
Furthermore,  it  will  be  advisable  to  put  on 
some  rich,  sifted  loam  and  to  sow  some  lawn 
grass  seeds.  In  the  absence  of  rain,  water  with 
a  fine-rosed  watering-can  and  roll  thoroughly. 
Thus  bad  patches  may  be  greatly  improved. 
Continue  to  insert  cuttings  of  bedding-out 
plants  of  all  kinds  and  be  careful  not  to  over- 
water  them  in  the  pots  and  boxes,  else  they  will 
decay. 

Vegetable  Oarden. — The  Autumn  Giant  Cauli- 
flowers are  now  turning  in  rapidly,  and,  in  order 
that  waste  may  be  obviated,  the  cultivator  must 
examine  the  plants  every  day  and  break  down  a 
few  of  the  big  leaves  over  the  hearts,  or  flowers. 
The  latter  must  be  protected  thus  long  before 
they  have  fully  developed,  ae  late  coverings 
would    not    greatly    retard    them    and    would 


not  prevent  discoloration  by  full  exposure. 
Advantage  ought  to  be  taken  of  every  fine  day 
to  get  all  ground  occupied  by  winter  greens 
well  hoed,  as  small  weeds  must  be  killed,  and 
this  can  only  be  done  by  hoeing  them  while  the 
weather  is  very  fine.  There  is  more  moisture  under 
the  large  leaves  of  the  plants  than  in  open 
quarters.  Dwarf  Beans  are  very  useful  at  this 
season,  and  are,  moreover,  very  tender  and 
palatable,  especially  when  gathered  from  plants 
growing  in  a  rich  soil.  For  many  years  I  relied 
upon  late-sown  seeds  to  produce  plants  for  the 
supply  of  late  August  and  September  pods, 
rather  than  put  up  with  the  small,  tough  pods 
from  the  tops  of  older  plants.  At  this  season  a 
thick  mulch  of  well-rotted  manure  was  put  on, 
and  plenty  of  diluted  liquid  manure  given 
through  the  top-dressing,  with  the  result  that 
long,  straight,  tender  pods  were  plentiful  until 
frost  came.  T'he  tops  of  the  stems  of  Jerusalem 
Artichokes  may  now  be  out  off. 

Fruit  Oarden.— The  potting  of  rooted  layers  of 
Strawberry  plants  for  forcing  should  be  com- 
pleted as  quickly  as  possible  now.  It  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  success  to  get  the  pots,  in 
which  the  plants  are  finally  placed,  full  of  roots 
by  the  end  of  October.  Use  good  loam  and  a 
very  small  proportion  of  leaf-soil,  and  a  peck  of 
horse-manure  to  each  bushel  of  the  above  as  a 
compost.  Pot  firmly.  Place  the  plants  in  the 
warmest  position  that  can  be  found.  Put  the 
pots  on  boards  and  syringe  the  foliage  freely ;  also 
water  judiciously  so  as  to  encourage  quick  root- 
action.  The  young  shoots  of  the  Japanese  Wine- 
berry  must  be  drawn  out  very  carefully  from  the 
older  wood  and  exposed  to  the  air  and  sunshine 
to  ripen  ;  then  they  will  bear  fruit  freely  next 
year. 

Oreenhoiise  and  Frames.  — Bougainvillea  glabra 
is  a  very  &ne  greenhouse  climber,  and  no  time 
must  be  lost  in  getting  the  flowered  portion  of 
the  wood  out  out.  In  no  case  must  any  of  the 
branches  be  cut  off  now  nearer  than  1  foot  from 
the  old  stem.  Plumbago  shoots  may  be  similarly 
I  reated.  Early  flowering  Chrysanthemums  should 
be  placed  in  the  greenhouse  without  delay. 
Admit  plenty  of  air  to  the  plants  and  clear  off'  all 
faded  leaves.  If  hot  weather  comes,  water  the 
plants  carefully  and  feed  them,  but  do  not  keep 
the  soil  in  a  saturated  condition.  As  early  frosts 
will  soon  come  now,  mats  or  other  protecting 
material  must  be  got  ready  for  placing  on  frames 
containing  such  plants  as  Primulas,  Cinerarias, 
Calceolarias  and  Cyclamen.  The  watering  of  all 
subjects  in  frames  must,  at  this  season,  be  done 
with  great  care.  B. 


PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES  BY  CUTTINGS. 
The  propagation  of  Roses  by  cuttings  is  a  very 
simple  process,  although  it  is  little  understood 
by  a  large  number  of  gardening  enthusiasts  who 
cultivate  the  Rose  very  successfully.  Those 
with  a  limited  purse  may  find  it  a  very  excellent 
means  of  increasing  their  stock  of  plants,  and 
where  the  grower  has  a  partiality  for  certain 
varieties  of  the  Rose,  this  system  of  increasing 
his  stock  has  much  to  commend  it. 

The  first  question  that  arises  is,  ' '  When  is  the 
proper  time  for  the  propagation  by  cuttings  to 
be  carried  into  efiect  ? "  The  work  may  be  done 
in  August,  September  and  even  later  with 
considerable  success.  Many  people  do  not 
attempt  to  insert  their  cuttings  until  September, 
as  they  fear  they  cannot  get  the  growths 
sufficiently  firm  for  the  purpose  ;  but  in  a  normal 
season  there  should  be  abundant  material  avail- 
able in  all  collections  of  Roses  throughout 
August,  especially  in  the  latter  part  of  that  month. 


The  choice  of  cuttings  is  a  most  important 
matter.  They  should  be  those  that  have  finished 
their  growth  and  become  sound  and  well  matured 
in  consequence.  I  prefer  to  secure  well-ripened 
side  growths  that  have  borne  flowers  to  all 
others,  but  this  is  not  always  possible.  Pre- 
ference should  be  given,  however,  to  the  kind  of 
shoot  I  have  just  suggested  ;  and  to  illustrate 
this  and  make  it  quite  clear  to  readers,  two 
illustrations  of  the  best  shoots  for  this  purpose 
are  given  in  Fig.  1.  On  the  left  is  represented  a 
side  shoot  of  firm  growth  w  ith  the  spent  flowers 
depicted  thereon.  The  other  represents  a 
growth  of  one  of  the  wichuraiana  ramblers,  and 
anyone  knows  that  they  are  abuadant  on  all 
these  fine  bushy  roses,  so  that  with  a  supply  of 
such  material  it  is  possible  to  raise  these  free- 
flowering  plants  in  large  numbers. 

In  detaching  these  cuttings  from  the  old  plant, 
rather  more  than  ordinary  care  should  be  observed. 
It  is  well  to  place  a  sharp  knife  just  below  the 
joint  formed  by  the  union  of  the  growth  with 
the  main  stem,  and  with  a  sweeping  cut  to  detach 
this  from  the  parent  stem.  It  will  be  noticed  in 
the  illustrations  that  each  cutting  has  been 
detached  with  what  is  termed  a  "heel"  ;  that  is, 
a  portion  of  the  stem  of  the  parent  plant.  With 
such  material  there  is  a  greater  chance  of  them 
rooting  than  would  be  the  case  with  the  cutting 
simply  detached  in  ordinary  form.  Where  it  is 
impossible  to  detach  the  cutting  in  this  manner, 
growth  of  a  lesser  length  should  be  detached 
insteEid,  and  this  out  through  immediately  below 
a  joint.  In  Fig.  2  there  is  depicted  the  two 
growths  from  which  cuttings  have  been  made. 
These  are  the  same  growths  as  are  shown  in  the 
first  illustration,  and  are  represented  in  this  case 
properly  prepared  and  ready  for  insertion.  The 
reader  will  notice  that  all  the  lower  leaves  have 
been  removed,  leaving  three  of  four  near  the 
upper  portion  of  the  cutting.  The  top  of  the 
growth  is  also  severed,  so  that  the  cutting  when 
prepared  may  be  anything  between  6  inches  and 
10  inches  in  length.  This  may  vary  in  some 
cases.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  in  quite  a  number  of 
cases  the  cuttings  are  not  more  than  6  inches  in 
length,  but  in  the  case  of  the  rambler  Roses 
they  may  be  much  longer. 

At  this  eaily  period  cuttings  may  be  inserted 
outdoors  in  any  cool  situation,  and  if  I  had  the 


2.— THE     SAME    SHOOTS    AS    SHOWN     IN     FIG.      I 
MADE    INTO    CI'TTINGS   READY    FOR    PLANTING. 

choice  of  position  I  would  choose  that  under  a 
north  wall  or  hedge.  The  ground  previous  to 
the  insertion  of  the  cuttings  should  be  dug  over 
carefully  and  the  soil  broken  up,  incorporating 
with  it  at  the  same  time  a  good  quantity  of  coarse 
sand  and,  if  possible,  some  leaf-soil.  On  ui 
account  should  a  wet  day  be  chosen   for  the 


August  28,  1909.  J 


THE    GARDEN. 


4^5 


3  — THREE      CUTTINGS      INSEBTED      IN      A      POT 
5   INCHES  IN   DIAMETER. 

operation,  as  it  is  most  Unwise  to  tread  about  on 
the  bed  when  there  is  a  likelihood  of  making  the 
soil  sticky  and  pasty.  The  cuttings  may  be  put 
in  with  a  dibber,  but  I  prefer  to  out  a  small 
trench  some  4  inches  or  more  in  depth,  placing  a 
layer  of  sand  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench  and 
adjusting  the  cuttings  in  this  some  6  inches 
apart  and  in  rows  1  foot  to  15  inches  asunder. 
As  the  cuttings  are  adjusted  in  position,  return 
the  soil,  making  it  quite  firm  at  their  base. 
When  the  operation  is  completed,  the  quarters 
should  be  neatly  finished  off  and  the  cuttings 
given  a  good  watering  in,  so  that  the  soil  becomes 
thoroughly  saturated.  Here  the  cuttings  may 
remain  until  the  succeeding  year,  when,  in  the 
autumn,  they  may  be  lifted  and  planted  in  their 
permanent  quarters. 

Those  whose  requirements  are  less  may  root 
their  cuttings  quite  satisfactorily  with  the  aid  of 
pots  ;  those  5  inches  or  6  inches  in  diameter 
answer  well.  Three  cuttings  of  suitable  size  may 
be  inserted  in  a  pot  5  inches  in  diameter,  as 
represented  in  Fig.  3.  Of  course,  the  cuttings 
must  be  prepared  similarly  for  this  purpose  as 
for  those  inserted  in  the  beds  outdoors.  That  the 
rooting  process  may  be  promoted,  it  is  well  to 
cover  the  surface  soil  in  the  pots  with  a  layer  of 
sand,  so  that  as  the  kole  is  made  with  a  small 
dibber  for  the  reception  of  the  cutting  the  sand 
may  be  carried  into  the  bottom  of  the  hole  on 
which  the  cutting  must  certainly  rest.  The 
soil  should  be  made  quite  firm  at  the  base  of  each 
cutting  as  it  is  inserted,  in  order  that  the  rooting 
process  may  be  satisfactory.  Where  smaller 
cuttings  are  used,  it  is  possible  to  put  as  many 
as  six  in  a  pot  of  this  diameter,  and  cuttings 
procured  from  Roses  that  have  been  grown  in 
pots  provide  ample  material  of  the  kind  just 
mentioned.  It  is  important  to  remember,  when 
preparing  the  pots  for  this  purpose,  that  they 
should  be  quite  clean  and  that  the  drainage  is 
properly  effected.  The  crocks  placed  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pots  should  be  covered  with  some 
of  the  rougher  portions  of  the  soil  before  the 
finer  soil  is  placed  therein.  As  each  pot  of 
cuttings  is  completed,  stand  it  in  a  cool  place  until 
the  whole  collection  is  done.  They  should  then 
be  watered  in  and,  after  standing  to  drain, 
placed  in  the  cold  frame  for  the  purpose  of 
rooting  therein.  I  prefer  to  plunge  the  pots 
in  such  material  as  that  of  a  spent  Cucumber 
frame,  as  this  enables  one  to  maintain  an  equal 
condition  of  the  soil,  in  which  ease  the  cuttings 
root  more  readily.  The  frame  should  be 
kept  rather  close,  and  the  frame-light  placed 
thereon  must  be  shaded  as  protection  against 
the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  The  soil  at 
all  times  needs  keeping  jiist  moist,  and  if  in  the 
early  morning  the  cuttings  are  sprayed  with 
clean  water  from  an  Abol  syringe,  this  will 
assist  in  maintaining  them  in  a  satisfactory 
condition.  When  rooted,  those  struck  in 
August  may  be  potted  up  into  other  pots  3  inches 
or  rather  larger  in  diameter,  and  such  little 
plants  will  flower    quite  satisfactorily    in    the 


succeeding  season  ;   but  those   struck  later  are 
best  kept  in  the  pots  and  potted  off  in  spring. 

Those  who  have  the  convenience  may  insert 
their  cuttings  in  a  cold  frame  in  the  same  manner 
as  was  suggested  for  the  nursery  bed  outdoors, 
the  way  in  which  this  should  be  carried  out 
being  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Cuttings  properly 
controlled  as  I  have  suggested  will  quickly 
develop  into  charming  little  plants,  so  that 
in  the  following  autumn  it  should  be  possible  to 
lift  these  \\  ith  a  nice  ball  of  soil  and  roots 
to  be  transferred  to  their  flowering  quarters 
outdoors.  Little  or  no  pruning  is  advised 
the  first  season  after  planting.  Those  who 
have  never  yet  tried  this  method  of  increas- 
ing their  stock  of  Roses  should  take  advan- 
tage of  the  hints  given  herein  to  commence 
operations  at  once,  and  there  is  no  reason  what- 
ever, provided  the  material  we  have  described 
can  be  obtained,  why  the  whole  of  the  cuttings 
should  not  root  quite  readily.  There  is  always 
this  to  be  said  in  favour  of  own-root  Roses — 
one  is  never  troubled  with  wild  suckers  such  as 
budded  Rosea  produce  from  below  the  ground 
line,  as  every  growth  belongs  to  the  Rose 
itself,  and  not  that  of  a  Briar  or  Manetti 
stock.  D.  B.  C. 

HARVESTING  ONIONS. 
The  Onion  is  a  very  useful  vegetable  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  but  especially  so  in  the 
winter-time.  As  to  the  good  keeping  of  the 
bulbs,  much  depends  upon  the  way  in  which 
they  are  harvested.  As  a  rule  the  small  bulbs 
keep  longer  and  better  than  the  large  ones,  so 
that  it  is  advisable  to  store  the  latter  by  them- 
selves and  use  them  first.  Not  a  single  bulb 
must  be  uprooted  until  it  is  fully  matured. 
When  ripe  the  bulbs  are  detached  from  the  soil 
with  the  greatest  ease.  Place  them  in  rows 
on  the  bed  if  the  weather  is  settled  for  a  few 
days,  and  in  an  open  shed,  on  mats,  in  dull, 
showery  weather  ;  but  do  not  pull  up  the  Onions 
while  they  are  wet.  The  best  bulbs  may  be 
"  roped"  when  the  skin  has  set  well  and  rustles 
when  touched.  The  smaller  ones  must  be  stored 
on  lattice-work  shelves  or  very  thinly  on  stages 
in  cool  structures.  I  like  to  keep  Onions  on 
small-meshed  wire-netting  suspended  several  feet 
from  the  floor  in  a  cool  room.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Dahlias.  — The  Dahlia  is  one  of  the  most  useful 
of  all  flowering  border  subjects.  The  plants  are 
robust  growing  and  are  not  absolute  failures  even 
when  grown  in  very  poor  soil,  and  when  given 
good  treatment  they  fill  up  gaps  well  with 
massive  foliage  and  bear  abundance  of  blossoms. 
The  first  buds  that  form  are  not  always  the  best 
shaped  nor  the  largest,  neither  are  they  the 
richest  coloured.  Usually  they  possess  the 
shortest  stems,  and  are,  in  consequence,  un- 
suitable for  placing  in  the  long  vases  now  so  much 
used.  There  should  be  no  hesitation  in  sacri- 
ficing the  first  blooms,  which  are  mostly  hidden 
by  the  ample  foliage,  and  using  them  as  traps  for 
catching  earwigs.  The  blooms  must  be  cut  off 
and  placed  in  the  plants  near  the  main  stem,  up 
which  the  pests  crawl.  Each  morning  tiiese 
blooms  must  be  carefully  examined  and  any 
earwigs  found  in  them  shaken  out  and  destroyed. 
Terminal  buds  now  developing  must  be  assisted 
by  liberal  supplies  of  manure-water  to  the 
plants.  Avoid  any  digging  of  the  border  near 
the  roots  of  the  plants. 

Chrysanthemcms,  Gladioli  and  Herba- 
ceous Plants. — Unless  the  cultivator  requires 
extra  large  blooms  of  Chrysanthemums,  dis- 
budding must  not  be  done.  Border  plants  are 
much  more  effective  when  all  the  flower-buds  are 
allowed  to  develop  and,  in  some  instances,  form 
sprays.  The  Chrysanthemum  is  an  extremely 
useful  plant,  as,  unlike  many  kinds  of  plants,  it 
will  withstand  the  necessary  mutilation  of  some 


of  its  roots  and  recover  from  the  undoubted 
check  given  when  being  lifted  at  this  season  for 
placing  in  flower-pots.  Slight  frosts  do  not  kill 
the  plants  either,  and  so  the  town  gardener  may 
possess  in  garden  and  cool  greenhouse  or  glass 
porch  a  nice  display  of  flowers  at  a  season 
when  the  latter  are  somewhat  scarce.  A  few 
hints  on  the  lifting  and  potting  of  the  plants 
will  be  useful  to  many  readers  of  The  Garden. 
No  plant  must  be  lifted  while  the  soil  is  dry 
around  its  roots.  The  proper  way  to  set  about 
the  work  of  lifting  is  to  first  thoroughly  saturate 
the  soil  with  water  ;  then  with  a  spade  cut 
through  the  soil  at  a  distance  of  9  inches  from 
the  stem  of  the  plant,  all  round  it,  about  a 
fortnight  prior  to  the  lifting.  In  the  meantime 
the  soil  must  be  kept  watered  in  the  absence  of 
rain,  and  pots  not  less  than  10  inches  across 
should  be  washed  and  dried.  Only  a  few 
cinders  need  be  put  in  as  drainage  material. 
Finally  lift  the  plants  with  the  aid  of  a  garden 
fork,  not  a  spade.  Some  of  the  soil  will  drop 
away,  but  sufficient  may  be  retained  and  also 
fibrous  roots  to  enable  the  plant  to  finish  the 
development  of  the  unfolding  buds.  Make  the 
soil  moderately  firm  around  the  roots  in  the  pots, 
then  give  water  and  place  the  plants  in  a 
sheltered  position  for  a  week  or  so.  While  it  is 
advisable  to  keep  the  soil  in  the  pots  in  a  con- 
sistently moist  condition,  it  is  unwise  to  over- 
saturate  it ;  but  the  foliage  may  be  syringed 
several  times  each  day  in  bright  weather.  At 
the  end  of  a  week  the  plants  may  be  taken  to 
the  greenhouse,  conservatory  or  porch,  and  air 
admitted  to  them  freely.  No  attempt  must  be 
made  to  force  the  opening  of  the  buds  by  giving 
manure- water ;  clear  is  the  best.  Gladioli  are 
now  looking  very  beautiful,  and  no  time  must 
be  lost  in  putting  neat  stakes  to  those  specimens 
needing  support.  Weak  doses  of  liquid  manure 
will  greatly  assist  in  the  development  of  the  top 
flower-buds.  Stronger  doses  of  liquid  manure 
may  be  applied  to  herbaceous  plants  that  are 
bearing  a  second  crop  of  flowers ;  but  those 
on  which  all  flowers  have  faded  must  not  be  so 
treated.  In  their  case  it  will  be  necessary  to 
remove  all  faded  blossoms  and  decaying  foliage. 

Flower  Boxes  and  Baskets. — If  it  can  be 
avoided,  no  cuttings  ought  to  be  taken  from  the 
plants  in  the  boxes  and  baskets,  as  it  is  best  to 
keep  these  receptacles  as  gay  aa  possible  until  late 
in  the  season.  Every  fading  flower  must  be 
removed ;  then  fresh  ones  will  grow  more  quickly. 
At  every  alternate  watering  give  weak  liquid 
manure  to  put  more  strength  into  the  fresh 
shoots.  Avon. 


4. — rose  cuttings  planted  in  a  frame. 


426 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  AUGUST  28,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF     THE 
WEEK. 

FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Froits  Undbb  GiiAsa. 

POT  VINES.— Where  these  are  forced  to 
supply  Grapes  very  early  in  the  season 
the  Danes  should  now  be  almost 
matured,  the  buds  plump,  and  the 
wood  hard  and  of  healthy,  brown  colour. 
The  pots,  if  air  has  been  abundantly 
supplied,  may  now  be  stood  outside  ;  a  good 
position  is  by  the  side  of  a  south  wall  where  the 
canes  can  be  made  secure.  Let  the  pots  rest  on 
boards  or  coal-ashes  to  prevent  worms  entering, 
water  freely  in  hot  dry,  weather  and  supply  a 
little  liquid  manure  at  intervals.  Young  Vines 
which  may  not  have  completed  their  growth 
should  be  hastened  along  as  fast  as  possible  after 
this  date,  so  that  the  canes  may  be  fully  ripened 
by  the  end  of  September.  Afford  ample  ventila- 
tion during  bright  weather  and  fire-heat  if  the 
days  are  dull  and  sunless.  Keep  the  laterals 
constantly  pinched,  and  syringe  twice  daily  to 
keep  the  foliage  free  from  insects. 

Melons.  —  Crops  which  are  fast  approaching 
ripeness  will  need  plenty  of  fresh,  warm  air 
circulating  among  the  fruits  and  a  reduction  of 
atmospheric  moisture.  See  that  the  roots  are 
kept  just  moist  enough  to  keep  the  plants 
healthy,  using  clear  water  at  this  stage.  Later 
batches  will  need  to  be  hastened  along,  and  plants 
which  are  now  in  flower  should  have  a  sufficient 
quantity  fertilised  to  form  a  crop  ;  those  at  the 
top  part  of  the  plants  usually  make  the  finest 
fruits.  Top-dress  frecjuently  with  a  little  fresh, 
sweet  soil,  so  as  to  encourage  and  preserve  plenty 
of  surface  roots,  and  attend  regularly  to  the 
pinching  and  stopping  of  the  surplus  growths. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 

Azaleas,  which  have  completed  their  growth 
and  are  standing  outside,  must  not  be  neglected. 
Syringe  overhead  daily  with  clear  water,  and 
should  the  foliage  become  infested  with  insects, 
dip  the  plants,  if  not  too  large,  in  a  suitable  in- 
secticide or  syringe  well,  especially  under  the 
leaves.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  Camellias 
and  many  other  kinds  of  plants  required  for 
spring  blooming.  Raise  a  good  batch  of  Coleus, 
to  be  grown  in  small  pots  during  the  winter,  and 
gradually  reduce  moisture  at  the  roote  of  Cala- 
diums.  Gloxinias,  Gloriosas  and  other  bulbous 
plants  which  require  rest  during  the  winter. 

Primulas. — Keep  these  sufficiently  moist  to 
maintain  a  healthy  appearance,  and  let  them  be 
stood  on  ooal-ashes  in  cold  frames  and  shaded 
from  the  strong  sun.  Repot  those  which  may 
require  it,  using  clean  and  well-drained  pots, 
but  do  not  everpot  at  any  time  ;  it  is  by  far  the 
best  for  the  plants  to  have  two  repottings. 

Roman  Hyacinths. — These,  to  supply  white 
flowers  from  Christmas  and  onwards,  should 
be  grown  extensively  in  all  gardens.  Six  or 
eight  bulbs  may  now  be  potted  in  6-inch  pots 
well  drained  and  clean.  Use  an  open  soil  mode- 
rately enriched  with  decayed  Mushroom  manure, 
leaf-mould  and  grit ;  do  not  bury  the  bulbs  too 
deeply,  and  water  a  few  hours  previous  to 
plunging  the  pots  under  6  inches  or  8  inches  of 
coal-ashes.  Narcissus  Scilly  White  and  other 
bulbs  treated  similarly  will  be  found  useful. 

Freesiaa. — Attention  should  now  be  given  to 
these  small  bulbs.  We  generally  plant  five  in 
5-inoh  or  6-inch  pots,  using  a  rather  sandy, 
fibrous  loam  and  leaf-mould  well  mixed  together. 
Stand  the  pots  in  a  cold  frame,  and  later  they 
are  taken  to  a  greenhouse  with  a  gentle  warmth, 
where  they  bloom  very  freely.  A  little  Clay's 
or  some  other  artificial  manure  greatly  assists 
the  size  and  robustness  of  the  plants. 
H.  Mabkham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrothnm  Parle  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Vegetable  Garden. 

Tripoli  Onions.— These  for  standing  through 
the  winter  should  now  be  sown.  Ground  in 
good  heart  is  best  for  this  crop,  and  if  prepared 
a  short  time  ago,  so  that  it  has  had  time  to 
settle,  so  much  the  better.  Make  the  surface 
quite  fine  and  draw  drills  about  1  foot  apart  and 
2  inches  deep.  When  covered  in  again  soot  or 
burnt  refuse  may  with  advantage  be  spread 
over  all ;  finish  off  as  usual  by  raking  and 
treading  to  obtain  the  necessary  firmness. 

Spinach  for  winter  use  must  now  be  sown, 
the  process  differing  but  very  little  from  that 
detailed  for  Onions.  Sow  the  seeds  thinly,  or, 
at  least,  thin  the  plants  to  4  inches  apart  when 
large  enough  to  handle.  Affording  plenty  of 
room  induces  sturdy  growth,  and  less  would 
probably  be  heard  of  the  loss  of  this  crop  in  very 
inclement  weather  were  more  attention  paid  to 
this  point. 

Cabbages.  —  A  second  sowing  of  these  may 
shortly  be  made,  selecting  a  well-exposed  site 
where  the  plants  are  not  likely  to  become  drawn ; 
thin  earlier  sowings  in  good  time,  and  sprinkle 
with  soot  to  keep  slugs  at  bay. 

Tomatoes  against  walls  will  now  be  ripening, 
to  assist  which  some  of  the  foliage  may  be 
removed,  also  all  flower-scapes,  as  fruit  setting 
after  this  time  cannot  ripen,  though  it  might 
possibly  attain  fair  size  and  be  useful  in  the 
green  state. 

Cucumbers. — Towards  the  close  of  the  month 
plants  for  winter  fruiting  should  be  ready  for 
transference  to  the  beds.  These  may  now  be 
prepared  ;  if  in  a  structure  until  lately  occupied 
by  a  similar  crop,  thorough  washing  of  the  wood- 
work and  glass  should  be  carried  out,  and  new 
soil  put  in  the  place  of  that  exhausted  by  the 
former  crop. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Apples  and  Pears  are  much  improved  in 
appearance  by  full  exposure  to  sun  and  air ;  where 
the  foliage  is  dense  a  fair  proportion  may  without 
harm  be  removed  entirely,  while  some  other 
may  be  drawn  aside  to  effect  the  same  end. 
Large  fruits  of  both  species  require  some  support, 
which  may  be  quickly  given  to  a  good  number  by 
fixing  a  strand  of  matting  around  the  stem  and 
making  it  secure  to  a  branch. 

Plums  of  the  earlier  sorts,  such  as  Rivers' 
Prolific,  Czar  and  Orleans,  being  heavily  cropped, 
it  would  assist  the  trees  and  e«able  the  remain- 
ing fruits  to  swell  if  many,  where  too  thick,  were 
pulled  off  as  soon  as  a  slight  trace  of  colour  is 
apparent,  as  such  are  excellent  for  kitchen  pur- 
poses in  general. 

Fruit  Under  Glass. 
Melons. — Encourage  growth  in  the  latest 
plantings  by  closing  the  house  early  and  using 
moisture  freely  on  bright  afternoons.  Thin  the 
growths  daily  and  tie  to  place  only  sufficient  to 
make  a  good  spread  of  foliage.  Earlier  plants 
having  fruit  ripening  must  have  water  applied 
to  the  roots  very  carefully,  as  an  excess,  especi- 
ally if  previously  on  the  dry  side,  would  result 
in  the  fruit  cracking.  Melons  in  frames  have 
not  had  a  favourable  time  hitherto  ;  but  where 
fair  progress  has  been  made,  the  present  change 
to  heat  and  brightness,  together  with  careful 
attention  to  the  clearing  off  of  surplus  growth 
and  elevating  the  fruit  on  a  level  or  slightly 
above  the  foliage,  will  make  up  for  time  lost 
through  dull  weather  previously. 

Flower  Garden. 
Poses  of  most  kinds  being  past  their  best,  all 
faded  blooms,  rough  shoots  and  insect-infested 
wood  may  be  cut  away,  and  the  remaining  foliage 
well  cleaned  with  soft  soap  and  water  solution 
applied  with  considerable  force  by  the  syringe  or 
engine.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacharn.) 
OaMoway  Flouse,  Oarlieston,  Wiytownahire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

L.t;lio-Cattleya  Black  Prince. — This,  as  its 
varietal  name  denotes,  is  a  very  dark-flowered 
and  handsome  variety.  The  sepals  and  petals 
are  in  colour  deep  rosy  mauve,  and  the  large 
labellum  is  very  dark  velvety  carmine  without 
any  of  the  usual  markings  in  the  throat.  Shown 
by  H.  S.  Goodson,  Esq.,  Fairlawn,  Putney. 
Award  of  merit. 

Lii'lio-Cattleya  Jason. — The  flowers  of  this  plant 
must  be  regarded  as  more  curious  than  beautiful. 
The  blooms  are  of  medium  size,  the  sepals  and 
petals  being  greenish  yellow  in  colour,  the  out- 
side of  the  first-named  being  somewhat  darker. 
The  labellum  is  very  much  crimped  at  the  edge 
and  is  of  rich  carmine  colour,  this  contrasting 
badly  with  the  colour  of  the  other  segments.  The 
whole  flower  as  shown  had  a  rather  bedraggled 
appearance.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Holford,  C.V.O.,  CLE,  Westonbirt,  Tetbury, 
Gloucester.     Award  of  merit. 

Liiiio  ■  Catlleya  Invincible.  — This  is  a  large- 
flowered  and  handsome  variety  of  muoh  vigour. 
The  sepals  and  petals  stand  out  almost  at  right 
angles  and  form  a  sort  of  star,  the  latter  being 
broad  and  muoh  waved  at  the  margin,  the  colour 
being  bright  but  rich  rosy  mauve.  The  labellum 
is  large  and  bright  carmine  in  colour,  with  just 
the  faintest  pale  sulphur  markings  in  the  throat. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans. 
Award  of  merit. 

Vanda  crrulea  Dreadnought. — This  is  a  large 
and  much  beautified  variety  of  a  well-known 
Orchid,  the  colour  being  about  the  same  hue  as 
that  of  the  type.  The  segments  are  very 
freely  and  distinctly  mottled  dull  white,  this 
forming  a  sort  of  network  all  over  the  flowers. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Sinder  and  Sons.  Award  of 
merit. 

Dejidrobium  acuminatum. — This  is  one  of  the 
most  distinct-looking  new  Orchids  that  we  have 
seen  for  a  long  time.  It  was,  we  believe, 
imported  from  the  Philippines  some  years  ago, 
but  has  not  been  exhibited  in  flower  before.  The 
individual  flowers  are  starlike  in  structure,  the 
sepals  and  petals  being  narrow  and  very  sharply 
pointed  and  a  sort  of  flesh  pink  in  colour,  this 
shading  off  to  nearly  white  at  the  tips  and 
deepening  to  almost  carmine  at  the  base.  The 
labellum  is  of  moderate  size  and  the  same  colour 
as  the  other  segments,  except,  perhaps,  that  it 
is  a  little  paler  and  almost  diamond  shaped  with 
very  acute  apex.  The  plant  itself  has  pseudo- 
bulbs  somewhat  resembling  those  of  a  Coelogyne, 
and  foliage  nearly  like  that  of  some  Cattleyas. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Moore,  Limited,  Rawdon, 
Leeds.     First-class  certifioate. 

Cirrhopetalum  pulchrum  Gliftonii. — A  very 
unique  and  beautiful  plant  possessing  consider- 
able vigour.  The  specimen  shown  had  four 
large  inflorescences  of  ourious-looking  flowers 
of  the  usual  shape,  the  colour  being  a  sort  of 
dull  crimson  on  a  greenish  sulphur  ground. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co. ,  Hay- 
ward's  Heath.     First-class  certificate. 

Odvntioda  Ooodsonii. — A  very  distinct  and 
remarkable  addition  to  this  bigenerio  raee.  The 
flowers  are  comparatively  large  and  are  well 
placed  on  an  erect  though  not  over  stout  stem. 
The  sepals  and  petals  are  dark  chocolate 
coloured,  or  almost  maroon,  the  latter  being 
freely  mottled  with  white.  The  labellum  is 
rather  large,  fan-shaped  and  of  the  same  mottled 
hue  as  the  petals.  Shown  by  H.  S.  Goodson, 
Esq.     First-class  certificate. 

Astilbe  rivularis  gigantem. — A  bold  and  hand- 
some form  of  a  well-known  plant,  which  is 
particularly  well  suited  to  moist  situations  and 
to  water-side  gardening.  The  plant  is  some 
6  feet  in  height  and  produces  creamy-coloured 
inflorescences  above  an  ample  leaf  tuft. 
Exhibited  by  Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Hardy  Plant 
Farm,  Enfield.     Award  of  merit. 

Canna  Roi  Humbert. — A  very  handsome  and 
large-flowered  variety  having  huge  trusses  of 
flowers  that  are  coloured  dark    crimson.      The 


AUGUST  28,  1909.J 


THE     GAEDEN. 


427 


variety  is  regarded  aa  ODe  of  the  best  for  purposes 
of  bedding.  Exhibited  by  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence, 
Dorking  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Bain),  and  by  Messrs. 
James  Veiteh  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea. 
Award  o£  merit. 

Gladioliis  Lord  Alverstone. — A  variety  of 
sterling  merit,  the  bold  and  shapely  flowers 
being  coloured  a  reddish  crimson  and  produced 
in  a  compact,  well  filled  spike 

Oladiolus  Miss  A  da  See  ve.  — Flowers  pure  white 
and  large,  the  spike  well  proportioned  and  hand- 
some. This  pair  came  from  Messrs.  Kelway, 
Langport,  and  each  received  an  award  of  merit. 

Poly-ilichumacuhatumpulcherrimumplumomm 
We  feel  inclined  to  tolerate  long  and  far-reaching 
names  when  they  practically  describe  the  subject 
to  which  they  refer,  and  this  is  so  in  the  present 
case.  The  variety  is  one  of  extreme  grace  and 
beauty.  Exhibited  by  Mr.  C.  B.  Green,  Acton. 
Award  of  merit. 

A  botanical  'certificate  was  awarded  to 
Anemonopsis  macrophylla,  a  plant  whose  flowers 
possess  a  singular   beauty  of  their  own.     They 


fltshy.  The  plant  has  a  splendid  branching 
habit  and  is  evidently  a  wonderful  cropper. 
From  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  King  Street,  Covent 
Garden. 

The  Beljast. — A  long,  narrow-podded  and  deep 
green  variety  of  much  promise,  the  pods  being 
very  firm  and  of  beautiful  texture.  The  plant 
shown  had  a  good  branching  habit  and  was 
carrying  a  wonderful  crop.  From  Messrs. 
Dickson  and  Sons,  Belfast. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  17th  inst. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDiaiTS. 

Questions  and  Answeps.— TA«  Editor  intendt 
to  make  Thb  Gabdeh  helpful  to  aU  readers  viho  desirt 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  mav 
be,  and  urith  that  object 
u>%U  make  a  special  feature 
0.1  the  ^^  Answers  to  Corre- 
aporutente"  colwmn.  All 
communications  should  be 
clearly  and  concisely 
written  on  one  side  of  the 
paper  only,  and  addressed 
to  the  EDrroB  of  Tut 
SABDEH,  so,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden, 
London,  W.C.  Letters  on 
business  should  be  sent  to 
«A«  Pdblisbbb.  The  name 
and  address  of  the  sender 
are  required  in  addition 
to  any  designation  he  may 
desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than 
one  query  is  sent,  each 
shculti  tie  on  a  Separate 
piece  of  paper. 


THE  EXCELLENT  EXHIBIT  OF  FLOWERS,  FKUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  ARRAN6ED 
BY   MESSRS.    E.    WEBB  AND   SONS   AT  THE  RECENT   LEAMINGTON   SHOW. 


are  coloured  mauve,  blue  and  white,  and  in  form 
are  not  unlike  a  small  Mushroom.  Exhibited  by 
Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Enfield. 


NEW    VEGETABLES. 

The  following  dwarf  French  Beans  had  been 
grown  in  the  society's  trials  at  Wisley  from 
seed  supplied  by  the  firms  mentioned,  and  each 
received  an  award  of  merit. 

Gholet. — A  long,  pale  green  podded  variety  of 
fine  texture.  The  plant  has  a  good  branching 
habit  and  appears  to  be  very  free.  From  MM. 
Vilmorin-Andrieux  et  Cie. ,  Paris. 

Evergreen. — Pods  of  medium  length,  rather 
narrow.  Pea  green  in  colour,  of  splendid  texture 
and  very  fleshy.  The  plant  is  rather  tall, 
branches  well  and  is  a  prolific  cropper.  From 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading. 


E.xcehior. — Pods  very  long  and  comparatively       ___  ^_  ,     

broad,  pale  green  in  colour  and  very  firm  and  !  growth,  and  not  much  benefit  would  accrue  to 


FLOWER    GAR- 
DEN. 

Rockery  and 
Rose  -  bed  (Erik 
Schweder,  Sioeden).  — 
Unfortunately  you  do 
not  give  the  size  of 
either  of  the  rockeries 
or  the  Rose-bed,  and 
these  particulars  are 
so  helpful  to  us  in 
these  matters.  From 
the  position  of  the 
Rose-bed  we  should 
feel  inclined  to  turf  it 
down  as  the  Oaks  are 
so  near,  or  plant  it 
with  Lilies  such  as 
testaceum,  Hansoni, 
or  speciosum  eruen- 
tum,  the  plants  to 
appear  out  of  a  spring 
carpet  of  Chionodoxa 
Lucilife,  blue,  or  of 
Tufted  Pansies.  The  two  first-named  are  excellent, 
and  if  the  bed  is  small — say,  not  more  than  6  feet 
across — one  variety  of  Lily  would  be  sufficient, 
planting  the  bulbs  6  inches  deep  in  liberally 
treated  soil.  We  are  not  quite  sure  from  your 
letter  whether  you  intend  making  beds  where  the 
rockeries  now  are,  and  perhaps  you  will  kindly 
inform  us  on  this  point  and  give  us  the  size  of 
the  beds,  when  we  will  do  our  best  to  help  you. 

Culture  of  Iris  Ksempferi  (i?.  H.).— 

This  Iris  usually  takes  two,  and  very  often  three, 
years  before  flowering  plants  result  from  seeds, 
and  even  then  they  are  hardly  representative  of 
their  kind.  If  the  seedlings  were  potted  on  at 
once,  giving  them  rich  sandy  soil  and  peat  in 
mixture  with  manure,  they  would  make  far 
greater  progress  than  if  kept  in  the  seed-pots 
and  starved.  When  autumn  arrives  the  plants 
will    have    practically    finished     their    season's 


them  afterwards.  On  the  other  hand,  by  first 
treating  them  in  pots  in  a  frame  you  might; 
plant  out  any  time  when  the  plants  had  become 
established,  giving  attention  to  watering  in  case 
of  dry  weather.  Aflford  them  every  opportunity 
of  becoming  as  large  as  possible  this  season.  In 
this  way  time  will  be  saved.  The  plants  being 
of  a  voracious  nature,  richly  manured,  well- 
prepared  soil  in  a  slightly  shaded  spot  should 
be  given  and  generous  supplies  of  moisture 
while  growth  is  progressing. 

Lilium  candidum  diseased  (Andreu:  Mac- 
A;e7i2(>).— The  plants  are  affected  by  the  well-known  leaf 
fungus,  which  causes  such  destruction  to  the  plants.  You 
can  do  nothing  at  the  present  time  beyond  collecting  and 
burning  all  the  diseased  parts,  though  it  is  more  than 
likely  that  hosts  of  disease  germs  are  already  distributed 
around.  The  only  possible  means  of  allaying  the  disease 
another  season  or  of  modifying  its  attacks  is  to  early 
syringe  tlie  plants  with  sulphide  of  potassium,  using  l^oz. 
to  three  gallons  of  soft  water,  so  spraying  the  plants  that 
the  under  and  upper  leaf  surfaces  are  well  moistened. 
Even  this  to  be  of  any  service  should  be  done  early  and 
repeated  once  every  eight  days  or  so  for  a  time,  antici- 
pating the  disease  as  it  were.  If  the  syringing  is  left  till 
the  disease  appears,  its  spread  is  so  rapid  that  it  cannot  be 
held  in  check.  Lifting  and  sun-baking  the  bulbs  has  in 
some  instances  proved  effectual ;  but  so  much  depends  on 
the  season  itself,  and  in  a  jear  like  1909  the  cold  and  wet 
have  greatly  favoured  the  spread  of  the  disease. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Rhododendrons   deterioratingr 

(il/.  B.  H.  Allen). — Rhododendrons  ought  not  to 
go  back  to  the  wild  forms,  unless  you  allow  the 
stocks,  on  which  the  good  varieties  may  have 
been  grafted,  to  grow  and  smother  the  good  ones. 
This  is  probably  what  has  happened  in  your  case. 
Look  over  your  plants  and  determine  whether 
there  are  suckers  coming  from  below  the  graft. 
If  this  is  the  case,  cut  the  suckers  away  and  allow 
all  the  strength  to  go  into  the  correct  branches. 
The  flowers  you  send  are  from  Linum  perenne. 

Information  about  a  shrub  {Mrs. 
Lyons). — The  shrub  you  send  for  name  is  known 
under  several  names,  the  common  one  of  Snow 
in  Summer  and  the  scientific  ones  of  Helichry- 
sum  rosmarinifolium  and  Ozothamnus  rosmarini- 
folius.  The  name  of  Helichrysum  rosmarini- 
folium is  the  correct  one.  It  is  not  a  common 
shrub,  and  it  is  only  suitable  for  culture  in  the 
warmer  parts  of  the  British  Isles.  You  may  cut 
it  back,  but  not  too  hard,  as  soon  as  it  finishes 
flowering.  Cuttings  of  the  current  year's  shoots 
3  inches  or  4  inches  long  may  be  taken  any 
time  between  mid-July  and  mid-September  and 
inserted  in  a  bed  of  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame. 
Water  well  when  first  put  in  and  keep  the  frame 
close  and  shaded  from  bright  sun.  It  is  quite 
likely  that  no  more  water  will  be  required  until 
after  roots  have  been  formed,  but  you  must  be 
guided  entirely  by  the  condition  of  the  soil. 
The  shrub  is  a  native  of  Victoria  and  Tasmania 
and  is  of  a  very  ornamental  character. 

'WlUovr  shoot  fop  inspection  (.M.  L. 
Mahieson). — The  abnormal  Willow  growth  you  send  for 
inspection  has  been  caused  apparently  by  the  flowers  in  a 
catkin  turning  into  leaves.  The  pointed  parts  are  swollen 
ovaries,  and  are  filled  with  rudimentary  leaves  instead  of 
seeds  and  the  usual  cottony  substance.  Such  an  abnormal 
condition  is  unusual,  and  the  growth  is  of  a  very 
interesting  character. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Roses  for  Brazil  {Border  Reader). — 
The  more  double  varieties  of  the  Tea-scented  and 
Hybrid  Tea-seented  classes  would  be  most 
suitable  for  hot  countries  like  Brazil.  We 
strongly  advise  you  to  send  out  or  recommend 
your  friend  to  procure  plants  upon  their  own 
roots.  If  you  send  from  this  side  they  should  be 
pot-grown.  The  following  would  be  a  good  selec- 
tion to  start  with  :  Niphetos,  General  Macarthur, 
Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy,  Lady  Ashtown,  Dora, 
Celia,  Lady  Calmouth,  Laurent  Carle,  Mme. 
Maurice  de  Luze,  Lyon  Rose,  Mme.  Segond 
Weber,  Renee  Wilmart-Urban,  Lady  H.  Vincent, 
Dean  Hole,  Prinoesse  Mertchersky,  Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert,  Etoile  de  France,  Instituteur  Sirdey, 
Souvenir  de  Th^rtje  Levet,  Liberty,  Richmond, 


428 


THE    GARDEN. 


[AufiuST  28,  190V. 


Grace  Darling,  Hon.  Edith  Gifford,  Viscountess 
Folkestone,  La  France,  Mme.  Hoste,  Medea, 
Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince,  Dr.  Grill,  Marie 
d'Orleans,  General  Gallieni,  Maman  Cochet, 
White  Maman  Cochet,  Antoine  Rivoire,  Mme. 
Wagram,  Triumph,  Mme.  Julea  Grolez,  Caroline 
Testout,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Boadicea,  Mme. 
Jules  Gravereaux,  Mme.  Hector  Leuilliot,  Earl 
of  Warwick,  Joseph  Hill,  Florence  Pemberton 
and  Johanna  Sebus. 

Rose  Clalpe  JacQuiep  sheddinir  its 
buds  (Cr.  D.  S.).— The  trouble  arises  from  climatic 
conditiona.  There  haa  either  been  too  much  rain,  the 
soil  has  become  too  wet  and  probably  drainage  is  defec- 
tive, or  the  cold  weather  chilled  the  buds.  Forking 
up  the  soil  about  the  roots  would  help  the  plants  can- 
siderably.  Perhaps  some  of  the  growths  are  too  old  and 
need  pruning  away.  Such  varieties  as  this  one  will  often 
become  partially  injured  during  a  severe  winter  and  will 
linger  on  until  the  blooming  season,  producing  quite  a  sickly 
growth.  We  recommend  a  severe  cutting  away  of  any 
such  growtha  as  soon  as  the  present  flowering  season  is 
over,  for  this  Rose  will  not  bloom  again  in  the  autumn. 

Rose  O.  Nabonnand  with  Imperfect  buds 
(iJ.  i>.)— We  have  had  a  similar  experience  with  this  Rose, 
though  not  so  aeverely.  We  attribute  the  malformation 
to  the  terribly  wet  time  we  had  when  the  buds  were  form- 
ing, and  now  that  hot  weather  has  come  the  autumn  buds 
should  be  as  fine  as  this  grand  Rose  usually  produces. 
Many  Roses  of  the  Tea-scented  tribe  were  badly  injured 
last  winter,  and  some  did  not  show  it  very  clearly  at  the 
time  of  pruning,  the  result  being  that  one  was  tempted 
to  prune  less  severely  than  one  should  have  done.  It  is 
always  unsafe  to  retain  growths  that  have  pith  the  least 
bit  of  a  brownish  colour.  Cut  right  back  to  the  clear 
white  pith,  even  if  by  so  doing  you  cut  right  to  the 
ground.  There  are  always  plenty  of  basal  eyes  to  spring 
up.  Some  Roses  that  we  pruned  in  this  way  even  as 
late  as  mid  •  April  produced  glorious  growths,  each 
crowned  with  huge  clusters  of  buds  and  blossoms.  We 
should  say  the  mulching  of  peat-moss  litter  you  gave  the 
Rosea  would  have  been  better  left  off.  In  such  a  wet  season 
as  we  have  had,  these  warmth-loving  Teaa  prefer  the  soil 
to  be  well  aerated,  and  this  is  not  possible  when  it  is 
covered  with  this  rather  close-lying  manure.  Remove  the 
mulch  at  once  and  have  the  soil  just  lightly  forked  over, 
and  by  the  end  of  September  you  should  have  a  fine 
display. 

Roses  on  own  poots  {McH.),  —  Undoubtedly, 
Roses  on  their  own  roots  would  make  more  bushier  plants, 
and  would  certainly  cover  the  beds  more  quickly  when  once 
they  become  established ;  but  the  difficulty  is  in  pro- 
curing the  same.  If  you  applied  to  any  of  the  leading 
growers  for  a  quantity  of  a  sort  of  the  most  popular 
bedding  Roses,  you  would  probably  be  t»ld  they  could 
not  supply  them,  and  if  they  had  a  fair  number  they 
would  be  in  pots,  which  makes  this  cUias  of  plant  ex- 
pensive, and  not  only  so,  but  they  are  wretchedly 
small  to  start  with.  If  you  tried  the  Continent  for  franc 
de  pieds  you  would  probably  obtain  the  Chinese  on  their 
own  roots,  but  the  Tens  and  Hybrid  Teas  would  be  root- 
grafted— that  is,  the  Roses  are  grafted  on  to  pieces  of 
Briar  roots.  We  may  say  we  have  had  no  difficulty  in 
making  splendid  masses  of  these  Roses  by  using  buJded 
plants  on  Briar,  but  we  have  always  planted  them  closer 
together  than  is  usually  recommended  and  pruned  them 
nearly  to  the  ground  each  year.  About  15  inches  to 
IS  inches  apart  each  way  is  ample  when  a  mass  of 
growth  is  desired,  and  by  pruning  them  to  within  -2  inches 
or  3  inches  of  the  ground  you  ensure  a  good  display  from 
the  basal  eyes.  Some  varieties  that  are  rather  tall- 
growing,  such  as  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  may  be  induced  to 
fill  the  beds  quicker  by  bending  one  or  more  of  the 
growtha  on  each  plant  so  that  it  is  almost  horizontal. 
This  may  be  done  by  driving  some  pegs  into  the  ground. 
Growths  will  spring  up  from  every  eye  and  you  will  have 
a  fine  display. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Peaches    falling:    (^-    H.   ^.)-  — The 

variety  Early  Alexandria  is  notoriously  bad  for 
dropping  its  fruit.  We  think  the  cause  must  be 
overcropping.  The  tree  has  been  struggling  to 
mature  and  finish  its  crop,  but  has  failed  at  the 
last  moment  through  having  more  to  do  than  its 
strength  can  accomplish.  The  fruit  is  perfectly 
formed  and  the  stone  quite  healthy,  showing 
that  there  was  no  fault  in  the  setting.  You 
must  be  content  with  a  lighter  crop  next  year, 
when  you  will  have  finer  fruit  and  a  more  certain 
crop. 

Strawberries  going:  wrong:  {Rich). 

The  Strawberries  have  been  attacked  by  red 
spider,  and  to  this  attack  the  purplish  appear- 
ance and  crinkling  of  the  leaves  are  due.  The 
plants  should  be  sprayed  with  potassium  sulphide, 
loz.  to  two  gallons  of  water  ;  but  at  this  stage  it 
will  probably  do  little  good,  as  the  mites  will  be 
protected  by  the  web  they  have  spun.  The 
leaves    of   the   plants   may    be    cut    olf    with   a 


scythe  now  and  allowed  to  dry  on  the  bed, 
then  burnt  where  they  lie.  This  will  not  harm 
the  plants,  but  will  destroy  large  numbers  of 
red  spiders  and  eggs. 

Figs  decaylng^  on  the  trees  {F.  W.  .5.).— The 
cause  of  the  decay  in  this  instance  is,  we  think,  the  long- 
coutinued  spell  of  cold  and  damp  weather  experienced  this 
year.  We  hope  and  believe  that  now  we  are  favoured 
with  warmer  weather  the  decay  will  be  arrested,  and  that 
your  Figs  will  swell  up  perfectly.  This  is  a  common  com- 
plaint among  Figs  as  they  approach  ripeness,  and  is 
generally  caused  by  the  tree  or  trees  being  overcrowded 
with  branches,  making  it  difficult,  and  sometimes  impos- 
sible, for  air  or  sunshine  to  penetrate  among  the  branches 
of  the  tree,  or  for  the  fruit  to  be  exposed  to  the  latter's 
influence.  The  remedy  lies  in  the  timely  thioniog  out  of 
the  useless  and  weak  branches,  thereby  letting  the  fruit 
and  remaining  branches  have  a  free  exposure  to  abundance 
of  light  and  air. 

Vine  leaves  spotted  (Sambro).— The  spots  on 
your  Vine  leaves  are,  we  think,  sun  spots,  the  result  of  the 
recent  great  heat.  We  notice  that  red  spider  is  present. 
This  should  be  got  rid  of  by  heating  the  water  in  the  pipes 
to  boiling  point,  and  then  painting  them  over  with  flowers 
of  sulphur  made  into  the  consistency  of  paint  by  added 
water.  This  should  be  repeated  for  two  succeeding  nights, 
closing  the  vinery  to  prevent  the  fumes  of  sulphur 
escaping.  The  piece  of  wood  sent  is  well  developed  and 
splendidly  ripened,  and  the  attack  of  spot  on  the  leaves 
need  not,  we  think,  cause  you  any  alarm.  Give  your  Vines 
abundance  of  air  day  and  night.  Encourage  lateral  growth 
and  see  to  it  that  they  do  not  want  for  water  at  the  roots, 
using  weak  manure- water  for  preference. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Clovep  on  lawn  (W.  E.  r.).— Your  trouble  with 
creeping  Clover  on  a  lawn  is  but  a  repetition  of  what  was 
so  common  an  experience  some  two  or  three  years  ago, 
when  too  abundant  rains  caused  this  Clover  to  grow 
rapidly  and  overpower  grass  in  so  many  directions.  There 
seems  to  be  no  remedy  whatever  other  than  coitinuing  to 
do  as  you  have  done— keep  the  Clover  in  check  by  tearing 
it  ©ut  with  a  very  sharp-toothed  rake.  Sulphate  of 
ammonia,  whether  applied  pure  or  in  conjunction  with 
white  sand,  as  Lawn  Sand,  temporarily  burns  the  leaf- 
age ;  but  the  heavy  rains  which  have  been  so  frequent 
speedily  dissolve  it,  and  thus  it  becomes  potent  manure. 
If  you  can  by  constant  use  of  the  rake  keep  the  Clover 
in  check,  when  hot,  dry  weather  came  it  would  soon 
dwindle,  as  being  shallow-reoted  it  suffers  from  drought 
more  readily  than  grass.  This  Clover  seeds  freely 
and  thus  spreads  itself  rapidly.  It  is  for  this  reason  all 
the  more  difficult  to  check.  Very  likely  the  introduction 
of  so  much  Shamrock  from  Ireland,  which  the  Clover  is, 
has  something  to  do  with  its  spread  over  British  lawns. 

Names  of  plants.— L.  High.—'ihei  Sweet  Pea 
looks  like  Gladys  Unwin,  but  the  flowers  were  too  withered 

for  ua  to  say  with  certainty. F.  W,  i).— Salvia  Hormi- 

num.—Foofc^s.— Acanthus     longifolius. J.     M.  —  1, 

Aspidium  angulare ;  2,  Nephrolepis  cordifolia  ;  3,  Scolo- 
pendrium  vulgare  marginatum  ;  4,  Asplenium  Filix-foemina 
var. ;  5,  Aspidium  falcatum  ;  6,  Pteris  tremula ;  7,  Nephro- 
lepis tasselata.^— /".  fl^.— Leycesteria  formosa  and  Rhus 
Cotinus. A.  B.  Stevenson. — Artemisia  vulgaris. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
chat  a,  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit, 
tree,  shrub.  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


SwEKT  Peas  from  Pkeston. 
Mr.  W.  Hindle,  Pilot  Cottage,  Longton,  near 
Preston,  sends  ua  flowers  of  Sweet  Peas,  which  are 
of  good  quality  considering  the  time  of  year. 
He  writes:  "I  am  sending  you  a  few  varieties 
of  Sweet  Peas,  viz.,  Etta  Dyke,  Prince  Olaf, 
Pink  Pearl,  Helen  Lewis,  Hannah  Dale,  Countess 
Spencer,  A.  J.  Cook,  Chrissie  Unwin,  Clara 
Curtis  and  Dobbie's  Mid  Blue.  I  hope  they  will 
arrive  in  good  condition  and  adorn  your  table. 
The  stems  have  been  cut  short,  but  were  formerly 
quite  12  inches  long." 

Roses  fbom  Scotland. 
Dr.  McWatt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B. ,  sends 
ua  a  beautiful  collection  of  climbing  Rosea  and 


also  some  other  interesting  plants  from  his 
Scottish  garden.  He  writes  :  "  I  send  you  Genti- 
ana  tibetica  ;  Spigelia  marilandica,  a  plant 
rather  difficult  to  grow,  tubular  flowers  red 
outside,  yellow  inside ;  Gentiana  septemfida,  a 
beautiful  plant  with  its  blue-white  flowers  in 
clusters  ;  Rodgersia  podophylla,  with  its  fine, 
large,  bronze  leaves,  grows  here  in  damp,  peaty 
soil ;  a  large  variety  of  climbing  Roses  ;  and 
some  other  things." 

Antholtza  paniculata. 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  King  Street,  Covent 
Garden,  send  us  a  plant  of  Antholyza  paniculata, 
which  at  first  sight  reminds  one  of  a  well-grown 
Montbretia  or  Tritoma.  Messrs.  Barr  write : 
' '  In  case  it  may  interest  you,  we  have  pleasure 
in  sending  herewith  for  inspection  Antholyza 
paniculata.  This  is  very  easily  grown  in  cold 
frames  or  under  a  south  wall.  Like  many  of  the 
other  Iridese,  it  likes  plenty  of  moisture  while  in 
growth  and  liberal  feeding.  If  potted  up  in 
spring,  it  can  easily  be  grown  on  a  window-sill  or 
balcony,  provided  that  as  soon  as  the  plant  has 
made  about  12  inches  growth  it  is  kept  in  a 
saucer  of  water. " 


SOCIETIES. 


DUMFRIESSHIRE  AND  GALLOWAY  HORTI- 
CULTURAL SOCIETY. 
The  annual  autumn  show  of  the  above  society  was  held 
in  Cresswell  Park,  Dumfries,  on  the  Itth  inst.,  the 
exhibition  being  opened  in  a  graceful  speech  by  Lady 
M'Taggart  Stewart  of  Southwick.  The  show,  which  was 
held  in  conjunction  with  Highland  games  organised 
by  the  society,  was  the  best  held  for  many  years, 
although  the  nurserymen's  exhibits  were  less  numerous 
than  they  might  be.  Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay, 
sent  one  of  their  fine  groups  of  Dahlias  and  other  flowers  ; 
Messrs.  James  Service  and  Sons,  Dumfries,  exhibited 
sixty  varieties  of  Sweet  Peas,  together  with  Phloxes  and 
other  flowers ;  Messrs.  G.  Fairbairn  and  Son,  Carlisle, 
exhibited  Sweet  Peas  ;  Messrs.  Thomas  Kennedy  and  Co., 
Dumfries,  showed  Sweet  Peas,  Roses  and  hardy  flowers ; 
and  Mr.  M'Lauchaln,  Stranraer,  sent  horticultural  struc- 
tures. 

Several  leading  competitions  were  of  special  value,  one 
of  these  being  that  for  the  Dumfries  Corporation  Cup, 
with  a  sum  of  money  added,  for  a  table  of  plants.  Mr. 
J.  M.  Stewart,  MoUance,  who  has  won  this  cup  several 
times,  again  secured  it  with  a  tasteful  table  of  excellently 
grown  plants.  Mr.  R.  A.  Grigor,  Dalswinton,  was  a  very 
near  second.  The  silver  cup  given  by  Messrs.  J.  Service 
and  Sons,  for  twelve  groups  of  Sweet  Peas,  proved  the 
means  of  bringing  out  a  splendid  exhibit  of  these  favourite 
flowers.  Mr.  Grigor,  who  was  the  winner  last  year,  was 
second  this  time,  Mr.  James  Duff,  Threave,  coming  in 
ahead,  although  in  the  opinion  of  some  the  positions 
should  have  been  reversed. 

For  vegetable  growers  the  Dunn  Memorial  Fund  Prize, 
consisting  of  a  medal  and  a  sum  of  money,  was  the  central 
attraction.  It  was  offered  for  ten  varieties  in  a  collection, 
and  here  Mr.  J.  M.  Stewart  proved  the  winner,  bis  produce 
winning  by  five  points  above  the  collection  shown  by  Mr. 
Middleton,  Kirkcudbright. 

Among  the  other  classes,  the  Sweet  Peas,  which  every- 
where brought  out  good  competition,  were  among  the 
beat  things,  the  leading  winners  in  these  being  Mr.  Grigor, 
Mr.  Duff  and  Mr.  J.  M.  Stewart. 

Roses  were  very  well  shown  by  Messrs.  T.  Smith  and 
Sons,  Stranraer,  who  were  first  for  twenty-four  Roses  and 
for  eighteen  Teas ;  Mr.  H.  Marrs  and  Messrs.  W.  and  T. 
Kirk,  Dumfries.  In  the  other  cut-flower  classes  the  prin- 
cipal winners  were  Messrs.  C.  Murray,  Cowhill ;  J.  Wilson, 
Summerville ;  R.  A.  Grigor ;  J.  Brown,  Carrutherstown ; 
W.  Scott,  Drumpark ;  B.  Rutherford,  Glenlair ;  J.  and  W. 
Tweedie,  D.  Whitelaw,  J.  M'Leod,  W.  Anderson,  J.  B. 
Dedman  and  W.  and  T.  Kirk. 

Pot  plants  were  better  than  usual,  but  those  of  the 
amateurs,  in  particular,  stand  in  need  of  improvement. 
The  leading  winners  were  Messrs.  R.  A.  Grigor,  J.  Wilson, 
J.  M.  Stewart,  W.  Anderson,  A.  M'AIHster  and  D.  J. 
Maxwell. 

Fruit  was  barely  up  to  its  usual  standard  at  this  show,  but 
the  collections  of  Grapes  and  Peaches  were  flne.  For  the 
former  Mr.  Stewart  was  first,  Mr.  B.  Rutherford  being 
second.  These  gardeners,  together  with  Messrs.  J.  Duff 
and  W.  Scott,  were  the  most  successful  in  the  other  fruit 
classes. 

Vegetables  were  good  for  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and 
in  the  collection  class  Mr.  J.  M.  Stewart,  who,  as  already 
mentioned,  won  the  Dunn  Medal,  was  again  flrst,  Mr.  J. 
Duff  being  second.  Other  winners  of  flrst  prizes  here  were 
Messrs.  J.  Morrison,  W.  Scott,  R.  A.  Grigor  and  J. 
Henderson ;  together  with  Messrs.  D.  J.  Maxwell,  W. 
Anderson,  R.  Middleton,  W.  and  T.  Kirk  and  A.  M'Allister 
among  the  amateurs. 

In  the  florist's  classes,  Mr.  J.  Henderson,  Elmbank,  was 
the  moat  successful  exhibitor. 


August  28,  i909.1 


THE     GARDEN. 


Vll. 


SHREWSBUUY    HORTICULTURAL    EXHIBITION. 

The  Shropshire  Horticultural  Society  held  its  thirty-fifth 
annual  show  in  the  beautiful  Quarry  Grounds  on  the  ISCh 
and  19th  inst.,  and  although  the  exhibition  was  very  good 
indeed,  the  general  impression  was  that  it  was  not  quite 
up  to  the  usual  standard.  The  new  regulation  limiting 
the  number  of  awards  to  be  made  to  nurserymen's 
exhibits  caused  a  great  deal  of  dissatisfaction,  and  we 
feel  sure  the  committee  will  do  well  to  give  this  point 
earnest  and  unbiassed  consideration  before  drawing  up 
the  schedule  for  next  year.  These  non-competitive  dis- 
plays have  done  much  to  bring  this  exhibition  up  to  its 
present  high  standard  and  to  render  It  one  of  the  most 
important  horticultural  shows  in  the  country,  and  such 
exhibits  must  be  retained  at  all  costs.  It  is  certainly 
unfair  to  turn  these  exhibits  into  what  amounts  practi- 
cally to  competitive  displays  unless  every  exhibitor  is 
placed  on  an  equal  footing  as  regards  space  and  situation. 

Herbaceous  Cut  Flowers. 

The  competitive  and  non-competitive  exhibits  of  hardy 
perennials  have  always  been  one  of  the  features  of  the 
show.  In  the  chief  class,  which  was  one  for  a  collection 
with  a  frontage  of  1 0^  feet  (Roses  excluded  and  no  duplicate 
or  mixed  bunches  allowed),  there  was  a  very  spirited 
competifcion.  Messrs.  Gunn  and  Son  of  Olton,  Birmingham, 
occupied  the  same  position  as  last  year,  viz.,  first.  They 
had  a  beautiful  vase  of  Scabiosa  caucasica  perfecta, 
which  attracted  much  attention ;  and  Rudbecbia  purpurea, 
Hemerocallis  (diaticha  plena),  Allium  descendens  and 
Delphinium  sinensis  were  all  good.  This  last  is  a  capital 
little  plant  to  grow  for  cutting  or  for  the  fronts  of 
herbaceous  borders.  It  is  a  real  blue  and  has  a  delightful 
loosely  put  together  inflorescence.  Messrs.  Artindale  and 
Son  of  Sheffield  were  second,  and  Messrs.  Gibson  and  Co. 
of  Bedale  third.  The  fourth  prize  was  taken  by  Mr.  A. 
Brydon  of  Innerleithen,  N.B,,  with  an  interesting  and 
out-of-the-common  group.  His  collection  of  Alstroemerias 
(pelegrina  and  chiliensis)  drew  attention  to  a  race  of 
plants  that  merits  wider  cultivation. 

In  Classes  55  and  56,  for  hardy  perennials,  the  winners 
were  Messrs.  Artindale  and  Son,  Mr.  R.  T.  Kent,  Mr.  F. 
Boaskill  and  Mr.  W.  H.  Banks.  We  noticed  that  Messrs. 
Artiadale,  both  in  Class  55  and  also  in  Class  52,  had  floe 
examples  of  Alstroemeria  aurantiaca,  Astilbe  Davidii, 
Coreopsis  lanceolata  magnifica,  and  several  Phloxes  and 
Delphiniums. 

What  are  generally  known  as  non-competitive  exhibits— 
that  is,  the  trade  groups — were  on  this  occasion,  as  we 
venture  to  think,  most  unwisely  turned  into  competitive 
ones.  The  judges  had  one  silver  cup  and  two  or  three 
medals  to  divide  between  the  whole  of  the  non-competitive 
groups,  and  as  there  were  many  more  groups  than 
medals,  most  of  the  grand  exhibits  that  do  so  much  for 
the  show  had  to  be  content  with  pieces  of  cardboard. 
We  saw  several  of  these  torn  up  or  burnt  and  the 
pieces  lying  about,  showing  very  plainly  the  feelings  of  the 
recipients.  It  is  most  unfair  t*  turn  the  trade  groups 
into  a  competitive  class  unless  each  extiibitor  has  a 
similar  position  and  space  en  which  to  stage  his  flowers. 

Messrs.  Bakers  of  Wolverhampton  had  the  only  water 
garden  in  the  show  ;  it  occupied  the  whole  of  one  bay  in 
the  large  No.  1  tent,  and  consisted  of  a  long  stretch  of 
water  with  moisture-loving  plants  on  either  side  and  great 
banks  of  huge  masses  of  herbaceous  Phloxes  at  each  end. 
The  Water  Lilies  and  Sarracenlas  were  distinct  features  of 
the  whole. 

Messrs.  Hewitt  and  Co.  had  a  fine  assortment  of  hardy 
plants.  Selina,  a  new  pink  Phlox,  and  General  van  Heuty, 
another  new  variety  of  a  pleasing  salmon  red  shade,  were 
good.  There  was  also  a  vase  of  the  pretty  pink  Mont- 
bretia  rosea  and  one  of  the  dwarf  white  Phlox  Tapis 
Blanc,  which  is  so  useful  where  low-growing  plants  are 
wanted. 

Mr.  John  Forbes  of  Hawick  had  beautiful  little  collec- 
tions of  border  Carnations,  Phloxes,  Delphiniums,  Snap- 
dragons and  Pentstemons.  Messrs.  I.  House  and  don 
(silver  cup)  had  Phloxes,  Pentstemons  and  Delphiniums, 
but  the  distinguishing  feature  of  their  exhibits  was  a 
collection  of  Statices.  These  seem  to  be  coming  to  the 
front  for  cutting.  The  new  varieties  comprise  many 
pleasing  shades  of  lavender,  rosy  heliotrope  and  pale 
purple,  and  their  distinctness  from  other  flowers  gives 
them  an  additional  value. 

The  King's  Acre  Nurseries  had  a  large  number  of  the 
newest  Phloxes.  Many  of  them,  as  their  names  betoken, 
come  from  Holland.  F.  von  Lassberg  (white),  George  a 
Strohlein  (red),  Eliz.  Campbell  (pink)  and  Iris  (purple) 
were  very  attractive. 

Messrs.  William  Conway  and  Sons  of  Halifax  had  a  nice 
collection  of  hardy  flowers.  We  noticed  a  very  pretty 
strain  of  semi-double  Poppies  called  Empress  Poppies. 
Tbey  have  several  rows  of  pure  white  petals  tipped  with 
rose. 

Messrs.  Seagrave  and  Go.  uf  Sheffield,  the  Pansy  and 
Viola  specialists,  had  some  good  varieties  of  Violas, 
Cactus  Dahlias  and  summer- flowering  Chrysanthemums. 

Messrs.  Dicksons  of  Chester  had  a  noble^  stand  of  peren- 
nials. Two  magnificent  masses  of  Lilium  auratum  vitta- 
tum  (a  rosy  red  streak  in  the  centre  of  each  petal)  and 
Romneya  Coulteri  were  very  prominent.  Messrs.  Dobbie 
and  Co.  of  Rothesay  had  various  types  of  Dahlias.  The 
comparatively  new  Pseony-flowered  race  looked  like  so 
many  large  single  Clematises.  H.  Hornsveld,  pale  salmon 
pink  ;  Glory  de  Baarn,  pink  ;  Duke  Heury,  brick  red ;  and 
King  Leopold,  yellow,  were  some  of  the  beat. 

Carnations  and  Gladioli. 

We  have  seen  a  good  many  more  Carnations  at  previous 

shows  than  we  saw  on  this  occasion.    The  prize-winners  in 

the  different  classes  were  Mr.  C.  F.  Waters  of  Balcombe, 

Mr.  C.  H.  Herbert  of  Acock's  Green,  Messrs.  M.  Campbell 


and  Son  of  High  Blantyre,  Messrs.  W.  Artindale  and  Son 
of  Sheffield,  Mr.  A.  Alcock  of  Blundellsands,  Mr.  S. 
Robinson  of  Kington  and  Mr.  A.  R.  Brown  of  King's 
Norton.  Mr.  Waters  had  perpetual  flowers,  such  as  After- 
glow, Mrs.  H.  Burnett  and  Glendale  ;  Mr.  Herbert,  border 
varieties,  such  as  Daffodil  and  Daniel  Defoe ;  Messrs. 
Artindale  and  Son,  border  varieties ;  and  Messrs.  M. 
Campbell  and  Sons,  also  border  varieties.  Among  these  last 
we  noted  Foxhunter  (scarlet)  and  Hon.  "Mrs.  Kenyon  (rose 
Picotee).  Mr.  Alcock  was  the  leading  amateur  winner, 
and  his  flowers  were  remarkably  fine  and  fresh.  We  noted 
Mrs.  Robert  Morton,  apricot;  Daniel  Defoe,  yellow-ground 
Picotee  ;  and  Czarina,  red  Picotee,  as  very  taking  flowers. 

A  beautiful  group  of  Perpetual-fiowering  Carnations, 
most  artistically  arranged  with  Ferns  and  Palms,  was  that 
of  Messrs.  William  Cutbush  and  Son  (large  gold  medal). 
It  comprised  several  novelties,  such  as  King  Arthur,  a  fine 
large  red  with  nice,  even  petals ;  Lord  Charles  Beresford,  a 
Picotee ;  Lady  Clementina  Waring,  a  primrose-ground 
Picotee,  edged  and  flaked  rose ;  and  Lady  Miller,  a 
perpetual  Malmaison,  blush  pink. 

Messrs.  Kelway  of  Langport  had  an  immense  collection 
of  most  beautiful  varieties  of  Gladioli.  They  were  not 
staged  in  one  of  the  popular  tents,  and  we  doubt  if  any- 
thing like  the  whole  of  the  visitors  saw  them  ;  if  not,  they 
missed  a  treat.  There  must  have  been  over  200  varieties. 
One  variety,  Lady  Sandhurst,  received  an  award  of  merit. 
It  is  a  glorious  large  white.  Golden  Measure,  soft  pure 
yellow ;  Lady  Frances  Cecil,  loose  spike  of  a  lovely  shade 
of  warm  pink ;  Felicite,  pale  citron,  with  carmine  blotches ; 
Gamel,  pale  soft  pink ;  and  Sir  H.  D.  Wolff,  cherry  red 
with  a  white  throat,  were  other  very  lovely  sorts.  In 
the  competitive  classes  for  the  trade,  Messrs.  R.  Harkness 
were  flrst  with  a  fine  lot  and  Messrs.  G.  Gibson  and  Co. 
second.  The  winners  in  the  amateur  classes  were  Messrs. 
F.  Bunn,  W.  H.  Banks,  R.  T.  Kent,  T.  J.  Withington  and 
E.  H.  0.  Sankey. 

Sweet  Peas. 

The  events  in  the  Sweet  Pea  competition  that  claimed 
most  attention  were  the  defeat  of  Mr.  Thomas  Jones  in 
the  Eckford  Cup  competition  by  Mr.  P.  Yorke  of  Wrexham, 
and  the  advent  of  a  new  star  in  the  person  of  Dr.  Phillips 
of  Malpas,  who  won  two  seconds  and  a  first. 

There  must  be  something  in  the  air  of  Wrexham  that 
inspires  people  with  a  love  of  Sweet  Pea  growing.  Mr,  P. 
Yorke  (winner  of  the  Eckford  Cup),  Mr.  T.  Haycocks  (a 
prize-winner  in  more  than  one  class),  Dr.  Phillips  of 
Malpas  and  the  great  Mr.  T.  Jones  himself  all  live  within 
a  radius  of  fifteen  miles ;  and  the  noted  hybridist,  Mr. 
Hugh  Aldersey,  is  hardly,  if  at  all,  outside  it. 

Messrs.  Jones  and  Sons  of  Shrewsbury  richly  deserved 
the  silver  cup  for  a  most  pleasing  display,  which  occupied 
a  position  in  the  centre  of  the  large  tent.  Mr.  Bolton, 
Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Son,  Messrs.  R.  Sydenham,  Mr.  H. 
Eckford,  Mr.  Darlington,  Messrs.  I.  House  and  Son, 
Mr.  Hugh  Aldersey  and  Mr.  William  Deal  each  had 
displays.  The  very  large  space  the  competitive  and  trade 
groups  and  the  decorative  exhibits  occupied  in  pro- 
portion to  the  whole  show  illustrated  once  again  the 
wonderful  popularity  of  this  remarkable  flower. 

Plants.— Open  Classes. 

For  fifteen  stove  and  greenhouse  plants,  not  less  than 
ten  in  bloom,  Mr.  J.  Cypher,  Cheltenham,  easily  secured 
the  premier  position  with  fine  specimens  of  Croton 
Countess,  Isoras  Duflli  and  Williamsii,  Allamanda  nobilis, 
Statice  intermedia,  Rondeletia  speciosa  major,  Phsemo- 
coma  prolifera  Barnesii  and  others,  which  were  all  bright 
in  colour  and  cleanly  grown.  Mr.  W.  Vause,  Leamington, 
secured  the  second  position  ;  while  W.  R.  Manning,  Esq., 
Dudley,  was  placed  third. 

In  the  class  for  six  stove  and  greenhouse  plants  in 
bloom  or  foliage,  Mr.  J.  Cypher  again  obtained  the  first 
honours  with  all  flowering  plants ;  second,  Mr.  W.  Vause, 
also  with  a  good  set. 

For  the  group  of  miscellaneous  flowering  and  foliage 
plants,  arranged  for  effect,  there  were  five  competitors. 
The  leading  exhibit  was  that  of  Mr.  J.  Cypher,  which  was 
a  charmingly  artistic  and  tastefully  arranged  group,  con- 
sisting of  Orchids  in  variety,  combined  with  Liliums, 
Palms,  &c. ;  second,  Sir  George  Kenrick,  Mayor  of 
Birmingham  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  V.  Macdonald),  who  also 
staged  a  most  creditable  collection  of  plants  in  a  light  and 
graceful  manner  ;  third,  Mr.  W.  A.  Holmes  of  Chesterfield. 

The  Qist  prize  for  a  group  of  ornamental  foliage  plants, 
consisting  of  Palms,  Ferns,  <fec.,  arranged  for  effect,  was 
secured  by  Sir  George  Kenrick,  who  staged  a  nice,  hand- 
some group  of  plants  of  good  form  and  colour.  Second 
prize  was  easily  won  by  ivfi.  J.  Cypher,  who,  among  other 
plants,  showed  a  nice  specimen  of  the  Egyptian  Paper 
Plant  (Cyperus  Papyrus) ;  third,  Mr.  W.  A.  Holmes. 

In  the  class  for  thirty  stove  or  greenhouse  plants  in 
pots  not  exceeding  10  inches  in  diameter  (Orchids  ex- 
cluded) first  prize  was  easily  won  by  Mr.  J.  Cypher  with  a 
most  handsome  set,  the  finest  specimens  being  well 
flowered  and  of  bright  colour ;  second,  Mr.  T.  Sutton 
Timmis,  AUerton,  Liverpool  (gardener,  Mr.  B.  Comwell), 
with  large  specimens  of  Crotons  aureo  marmorata  and 
Countess,  Clerodendron  fallax,  Lonicera  semperflorens 
and  others  in  similar  form ;  third  prize  fell  to  Mrs. 
Swann,  Halston  Hall,  Owestry  (gardener,  Mr.  0.  Roberts). 
For  a  similar  set  of  twelve  plants.  Lord  Harlech,  Brogyn- 
lyn  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  Lambert),  secured  fljst  prize,  among 
others  having  Croton  andreanum,  Dracsena  Shepherdii 
and  Ixora  Duffii  in  good  form;  Mr.  W.  R.  Manning 
was  second. 

For  four  exotic  Ferns  the  leading  position  was  obtained 
hy  T.  Sutton  Timmis,  Esq.,  the  finest  specimen  being  a 
handsome  plant  of  Gonophlebium  subauriculatum  with 
fronds  S  feet  or  9  feet  in  length ;  second,  E.  Vaughton, 
Esq.,  Handsworth  (gardener,  Mr.  C.  Kellard) ;  third,  G. 
Burr,  Esq.,  Oaklands,  Shrewsbury  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  Jones). 


First  prize  for  six  DracEenas,  distinct,  was  secured  by 
Lord  Harlech,  who  showed  good  plants  of  Victoria, 
norwoodiensis,  Thompsonii,  Lord  Wolseley,  Gladstoneii 
and  amabilis ;  second,  Mr.  W.  R.  Manning;  third,  E. 
Vaughton,  Esq. 

For  six  Caladtums,  distinct,  T,  Sutton  Timmis,  Esq., 
was  placed  first;  E.  Vaughton,  Esq.,  second;  and  J.  Tams, 
Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  H.  Ru^,  third. 

For  four  Fuchsias,  first  prize  was  gained  by  Mr.  J. 
Tarrant;  second,  E.  Vaughton,  Esq.  ;  third,  Dr.  E.  W. 
Cooke,  Town  Walls,  Shrewsbury. 

For  six  double  Geraniums,  first  prize  fell  to  Mrs.  R. 
Taylor,  Abbey  Foregate  ;  second,  Messrs.  Clifft  and  Sons ; 
third,  Mrs.  Eyke,  Belvedere  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  Ridgway). 
For  six  single  Zonal  Geraniums,  Mrs.  R.  Taylor  (gardener, 
Mr.  H.  Cliff),  obtained  first,  and  Messrs.  Clifft  and  Sons 
second. 

First  prize  for  a  group  of  tuberous  Begonias  in  pots, 
any  varieties,  arranged  with  foliage  plants  or  Ferns  for 
effect,  was  gained  by  Messrs.  Blackmore  and  Langdon, 
Twerton  Nursery,  Bath,  who  staged  a  clean,  handsome 
group  of  flowers  in  good  form  ;  second  prize  was  won  by 
Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware  (1902),  Limited,  Feltham,  Middlesex. 
For  six  Begonias,  Messrs.  Blackmore  and  Langdon  were  an 
easy  first,  followed  by  G.  Burr,  Esq.,  and  B.  Vaughton, 
Esq.,  in  order  ef  merit. 

For  twelve  Gloxinias,  Mr.  J.  Tarrant  was  placed  first ; 
G.  Burr,  Esq.,  second  ;  and  Mrs.  R.  Taylor  third.  In  the 
class  for  twelve  table  plants,  T,  Sutton  Timmis,  Esq.,  was 
a  good  first ;  T.  Henshaw,  Esq.,  Roby,  Liverpool  (gardener, 
Air.  J.  George),  second ;  Mrs.  Harding  third.  Open  to 
County  of  Salop  only. 

For  a  group  of  miscellaneous  plants,  flowering  and 
foliage,  Mrs.  Swann  was  the  only  exhibitor,  and  was 
given  flrst  prize. 

First  prize  for  six  stove  and  greenhouse  plants  was  won 
by  Lord  Harlech  with  moderate-sized  specimens  in  good 
condition ;  second,  Mr.  J.  Tarrant ;  third,  G.  Burr,  Esq. 

Fuchsias,  two  plants  in  pots  :  First,  Mr.  J.  Tarrant ; 
second,  G.  Mitchell,  Esq.,  Bellevue  (gardener,  Mr.  J. 
Howell) ;  third,  Colonel  W.  G.  Patchett,  Broom  Hall 
(gardener,  Mr.  J.  Swain). 

Four  Begonias  in  pots,  double  and  single :  First,  Mr.  T. 
Hammonds,  Castle  Fields  ;  second,  Mrs.  R.  Taylor ;  third, 
Mr.  J.  Tarrant. 

Three  double  Geraniums  :  First,  Mrs.  R.  Taylor ;  second, 
Messrs.  Clifft  and  Sons  ;  third,  Mrs.  Eyke.  For  three 
single  Zonals  the  prizes  again  were  awarded  in  the  order 
named  above. 

For  a  collection  of  twelve  miscellaneous  plants  in  pots  : 
First,  Lord  Harlech  ;  second,  Mrs.  Swaine  ;  third,  G. 
Burr,  Esq. 

Cut  Flo\vers.— Open  to  All. 

For  bride's  bouquet  with  Orchids  and  two  bridtsmaids* 
bouquets  (Orchids  excluded),  first  honours  were  secured  by 
The  King's  Acre  Nursery  Company ;  second  prize  to  Messrs. 
Wood  and  Eastham,  Preston ;  and  third  to  Messrs.  R.  F. 
Felton  and  Sons,  Hanover  Square,  W.  First  honours  for 
another  bride's  bouquet  were  secured  by  J.  Garner, 
Altrincham ;  second,  Messrs.  Perkins  and  Sons,  Coventry  ; 
third,  Mr.  A.  Adshead,  Gatley,  Cheshire. 

In  the  class  for  a  bouquet  of  fiowers  for  hand,  Messrs. 
Perkins  and  Sons  obtained  flrst  prize  ;  Messrs.  R.  F.  Felton 
and  Sons  second ;  and  Messrs.  Wood  and  Eastham  third. 
For  a  hand  bouquet  (Orchids  e3«;luded) :  First,  Messrs. 
Wood  and  Eastham ;  second,  Messrs.  Bottomley  and  Burton, 
Elland ;  third,  Mr.  A.  Adshead. 

For  a  shower  bouquet  of  Cactus  Dahlias :  First,  O.  Robin- 
son, Esq.,  Alderley  Edge  ;  second,  Mr.  W.  J.  Garner  ; 
third,  Mr.  W.  Treseder,  Cardiff. 

For  a  feather-weight  bouquet,  0.  Robinson,  Esq.,  was 
placed  flrst ;  Messrs.  Perkins  and  Sons  second ;  and  Mr. 
W.  J.  Garner  third. 

Floral  harp  :  First,  Messrs.  Gunn  and  Sons,  Olton  ; 
second,  Messrs.  Perkins  and  Sons  ;  third.  The  King's  Acre 

For  a  basket  of  cut  flowers  for  drawing-room,  0. 
Robinson,  Esq.,  was  again  first,  Mr.  W.  D.  Garner  second 
and  Messrs.  Bottomley  and  Burton  third. 

For  a  hand-basket  of  cut  flowers  (Orchids  excluded),  Miss 
Ada  Townsend  was  flrst;  second,  The  King's  Acre 
Nurseries ;  third,  Messrs.  Perkins  and  Sons. 

Stand  of  cut  flowers  for  table  decoration  (Orchids 
excluded) :  First,  O.  Robinson,  Esq.  ;  second,  Mrs.  H.  B. 
Vernon,  York  Road,  Bowdon  ;  third,  Mr.  A.  Adshead. 

Open  to  Ladies  Only. 

For  an  arrangement  of  cut  flowers  suitable  for  a  dinner- 
table  decoration  (Orchids  excluded) :  First,  Mrs.  J.  Nixon, 
Alderley  Edge,  consisting  of  a  charming  arrangement  in 
orange,  yellow  and  white  shades,  with  flowers  of  Gloriosa, 
Lonicera  semperflorens,  Francoa,  Lilies  of  the  Valley,  &c. ; 
second,  Miss  Mary  Allen,  The  Woodlands,  St.  George's  ; 
third,  Miss  A.  S.  Herbert,  Acock's  Green. 

For  an  arrangement  of  Sweet  Peas,  Miss  Jones  of  Wem 
obtained  first  position  with  a  striking  combination  of  Mrs. 
Collier  and  Henry  Eckford,  with  suitable  foliage ;  second, 
Mrs.  J.  Nixon  ;  third,  Mrs.  Percy  Phillips,  Newport,  Mon. 

Roses.— Open  Classes. 
For  a  collection  of  cut  Roses,  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas  and 
Noisettes,  arranged  on  table  space,  Mr.  G.  Prince,  Oxford, 
secured  the  highest  honours,  Mr.  F.  M.   Bradley,  Peter- 
borough, being  placed  second  and  Messrs.  Gunn  and  Sons 

third.  .     ,      ,.,  J-  i.-     *. 

For  twenty-four  cut  Roses,  smgle  blooms,  distinct, 
Messrs.  Hugh  Dickson,  Belfast,  were  first ;  second,  Messrs. 
Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards ;  third,  Messrs.  R,. 
Harkness  and  Co..  Hitchin. 

For  eighteen  cut  Roses,  distinct:  First,  Messrs,  A. 
Dickson  and  Sons ;  second,  Messrs.  Hugh  Dickson  ;  third, 
Mr.  G.  Prince. 


vm. 


THE     GAliDEN. 


[August  28,  1909. 


For  eighteen  cut  Roses,  not  more  than  two  blooms  of 
the  same  variety  (trade  excluded) :  First,  F.  R.  S.  Nuttall, 
Esq.,  Eccleston  Park,  Preacott;  second,  J.  W.  Hinton, 
Esq  ,  Stafford;  third,  G.  H.  F.  Robertson,  Esq.,  Gresford, 
Wrexham. 

For  twelve  Roses  (open  only  to  the  County  of  Salop) : 
First,  Miss  Hester  Leeke,  Shifnall ;  second.  Dr.  D.  F. 
Rarabant;  third,  S.  D.  Brook,  Esq.,  Red  Barn. 

Dahlias. -Open  Classes. 

For  twenty-four  blooms,  show  or  fancy  Dahlias,  not  less 
than  eighteen  varieties :  First,  Mr.  J.  Sinellie,  Busby,  N.  B.  ; 
second,  Mr.  W.  Treseder ;  third,  Messrs.  M.  Campbell 
and  Sons,  Blantyre. 

For  twenty-four  Cactus  Dahlias,  not  more  than  two 
blooms  of  the  same  variety:  First,  Mr.  J.  Smellie  ;  second, 
Messrs.  Bottomley  and  Burton ;  third,  Mr.  H.  Woolman, 
Shirley. 

For  twelve  varieties  of  Cactus  Dahlias,  six  blooms  of 
each,  arranged  in  vases  with  foliage,  &c. :  First,  Mr.  W.  H. 
Banks. 

Owing  to  the  restriction  of  awards  in  this  section,  many 
excellent  trade  exhibits,  which  well  deserved  medals,  were 
only  given  a  certificate  of  merit. 

NON-COMPETITr\"E  AWARDS. 

Siloer  Cups  were  awarded  to  Messrs.  Jones  and  Sons, 
Shrewsbury,  for  Sweet  Peas  ;  Hobbies,  Limited,  for  Roses  ; 
Messrs.  Isaac  House  and  Sons,  for  herbaceous  plants ;  and 
The  King's  Acre  Nurseries,  for  fruit  and  flowers. 

Gull!  Medal-:;.— Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited, 
for  pot  fruit— Plums,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Figs,  &c.  ; 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  for  fruit,  flowers  and  vegetables ; 
Mr.  Ed  win  Beckett,  for  vegetables;  Messrs.  DobbieandCo., 
for  Dahlias,  &c. ;  Messrs.  Cutbush  and  Sons,  for  Carna- 
tions ;  and  Mrs.  R.  Bolton,  for  Sweet  Peas. 

miirr  Medals. — Messrs.  Kelway  and  Sons,  for  Gladioli  ; 
Messrs.  Webb  and  Sons,  for  general  exhibit ;  Messrs. 
Clibrans,  for  vegetables ;  Messrs.  E.  Murrell  and  Son,  for 
Roses,  &c. ;  Bakers,  Limited,  for  water  garden,  &c. ;  and 
Messrs.  John  Peed  and  Son,  for  Caladiums. 

Certijicates  0/  Appreciatwn  were  awarded  to  Messrs. 
Hewitt  and  Co.,  Jotin  Forbes,  Gunn  and  Sons, 
Blackmore  and  Langdon,  Henry  Eckford,  Webb  and 
Brand,  Darlington  and  Co.,  Dickson  and  Robinson,  T. 
Angus,  Seagrave  and  Co  ,  W.  and  J.  Brown,  A.  Myers,  R. 
Harkness  and  Co.,  R.  F.  Felton  and  Sons,  Conway  and  Co., 
Jarman  and  Co.,  R.  Sydenham,  Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons 
and  T.  B.  Dobbs. 

Fkctit. 

In  no  department  of  this  vast  and  magnificent  horticul- 
tural exhibition  is  manifested  a  greater  interest  by  gardeners 
and  the  public  generally  than  in  the  fruit  department.  This 
is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  as  we  see  here  collected  together 
and  exhibited  in  the  most  fascinating  and  attractive  manner 
the  very  best  examples  of  both  British  and  exotic  fruit 
which  the  skill  of  the  British  gardener  can  produce. 
There  is  n©  outstanding  sensational  excellence  shown  in 
any  class  in  this  department  the  same  as  that  gained,  for 
instance,  a  few  years  since  by  Mr.  Shingler  in  the  mar- 
vellous collections  of  Grapes  with  which  he  won  the 
challenge  cup  in  the  big  Grape  class  for  so  many  years. 
Having  made  this  reservation,  we  are  free  to  admit  that  if 
we  had  not  on  this  occasion  the  size  and  weight  in  bunches 
of  those  years,  yet  we  had  magnificent  quality  running 
through  most  of  the  fruit  classes.  There  was,  no 
doubt,  fruit  exhibited  (in  small  proportions,  as  there  is 
at  all  shows)  which  the  grower  would  have  been  well 
advised  to  have  left  at  home. 

It  has  been  proved  over  and  over  again  that  the  decora- 
tive tables  of  fruit  (Class  73)  is  the  most  popular  of  all  the 
exhibits  in  the  fruit  section,  if  not  also  in  any  section  of  the 
show.  We  have  seen  all  these  tables  since  they  have  been 
established  at  Shrewsbury  (many  years  now)  and  we  cannot 
recall  a  time  when  a  more  artistic,  a  better  arranged,  or  a 
more  harmonious  grouping  of  fruit  and  flowers  in  combina- 
tion were  ever  seen  than  on  this  occasion.  The  only  fault 
we  had  to  find,  and  it  is  a  serious  one,  and  one  which  we 
hope  will  be  remedied  in  future  years,  was  that  those 
lovely  tables  were  crowded  into  a  space  wretchedly  in- 
adequate to  receive  them,  and  where  it  was  impossible  to 
set  otf  their  full  beauty  to  advantage,  and  equally  im- 
possilile  for  the  many  thousands  of  people  who  crowded 
round  them  in  the  course  of  the  two  days  to  enjoy  seeing 
their  raxe  loveliness.  Five  competitors  joined  issue  in  this 
class,  the  conditions  being  that  thirty  dishes  of  ripe 
fruit  be  shown  with  n«t  less  than  ten  distinct  sorts.  The 
exhibitor  was  at  liberty  to  exhibit  any  sort  he  preferred 
within  the  stipulated  number,  but  not  more  than  fourteen 
bunches  of  Grapes  were  allowed,  to  consist  of  at  least  f«ur 
varieties,  and  these  to  include  both  black  and  white  sorts. 
A  stipulation  was  also  made  that  not  more  than  four 
varieties  of  any  one  kind  of  fruit,  or  more  than  two  dishes 
of  any  one  variety,  should  be  shown.  The  first  prize  in 
this  class  consists  of  a  challenge  cup  value  25  guineas, 
which  must  be  won  three  times  (but  not  necessarily  in 
succession),  with  a  prize  of  £20  and  the  society's  large 
gold  medal.  This  was  won  last  year  by  the  Duke  of 
Westminster's  gardener,  ilr.  Barnes.  This  year  it  has 
been  deservedly  captured  by  that  unassailable  veteran  in 
fruit  culture,  Mr.  Goodacre,  head-gardener  to  the  Earl  of 
Harrington,  who  was  also  first  in  Class  74  for  twelve 
bunches  of  Grapes— a  great  and  proud  achievement  in  one 
day.  In  previous  years  these  tables  of  fruit  were  judged 
by  points  and  its  point  value  given  to  each  dish  in  the 
collection,  the  total  of  the  points  being  shown  on  a  printed 
card  placed  against  each  collection.  This  year  this 
excellent  practice  was  omitted,  to  the  evident  disappoint- 
ment of  many  exhibitors  and  gardeners  alike,  who  had 
come  to  look  upon  these  point  cards  as  the  expressions  of 
the  value  of  each  dish  in  the  judgment  of  the  judges 
adjudicating,  and  where  in    analysing   the   same  many 


young  gardeners  receive  a  useful  lesson  in  judging,  and 
where  also  every  exhibitor  has  the  advantage  of  practi- 
cally finding  out  where  he  is  weak  and  where  strong. 
Grapes  were  splendidly  represented  in  this  class,  and  it 
was  Mr.  Goodacre's  MuEcats,  both  black  and  white,  no 
doubt,  which  went  a  long  way  to  help  him  capture  the 
first  prize,  although  every  other' dish  shown  was  of  high 
quality.  In  Muscats  he  had  ICi.J  points  for  four  dishes  out 
of  a  possible  11  points  to  a  dish,  and  for  Black  Hamburgh 
'.»i  points  for  a  possible  10.  His  Apples  Peasgood's  Non- 
such, Cox's  Orange  Pippin  and  Ribston  Pippin  were 
splendid.  His  Souvenir  du  Congres  Pear  was  one  of  the 
handsomest  specimens  we  have  ever  seen.  The  rest  of  the 
collection  consisted  of  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Figs,  Plums, 
Melons  and  Cherries.  The  second  prize  was  won  by  the 
Duke  of  Portland  (gardener,  Mr.  Gibson),  value  £17  lOs. 
and  the  society's  small  gold  medal.  This  was  only  a  few 
points  behind  the  first  prize  in  points  of  excellence.  The 
third  prize  was  awarded  to  the  Duke  of  Westminster 
(gardener,  Mr.  Barnes)— £10  and  the  society's  silver-gilt 
medal.  This  was  a  beautiful  and  attractive  table,  securing 
the  first  prize  for  its  fioral  decorations.  Lady  Hutt 
Grapes  and  a  dish  of  Pears  in  an  unripe  condition  pro- 
liably  discounted  a  considerable  number  of  points  from 
the  merits  of  this  exhibit.  Tlie  fourth  prize  fell  to  G. 
Farquharson,  Esq  ,  Eastnor  Castle  (gardener,  Mr.  Mullins); 
fifth  prize,  J.  Drakes,  Esq    (gardener,  Mr.  Parker). 

The  great  Grape  class  (Class  74).  The  schedule  here 
demands  twelve  bunches  in  not  less  than  four  distinct 
varieties.  There  were  six  competitors,  and,  as  it  can  be 
well  imagined,  the  whole  formed  a  magnificent  bank  of 
Grapes  of  the  highest  excellence.  Each  collection  was 
adorned  with  choice  and  beautiful  flowers,  muchenhanciog 
the  beauty  and  artistic  effect  of  the  whole.  This  class  was 
judged  by  points,  11  being  the  maximum  for  Muscat  of 
Alexandria  and  10  for  any  other  Muscat  (black  or  white), 
also  for  Black  Hamburgh.  From  this  it  will  be  seen  that 
it  is  clearly  to  the  advantage  of  the  exhibitor  to  include  as 
many  Muscats  as  possible  in  his  collection.  The  Grapes 
in  this  class  were  of  high  excellence  all  through,  and  the 
difference  in  value  between  each  exhibit  is  very  fairly,  we 
think,  reflected  in  the  number  of  marks  each  exhibitor 
received.  Mr.  Goodacre,  first  prize  i'£20),  number  of  marks 
114*  out  of  a  possible  130 ;  Mr.  Parker,  second  (£16), 
number  of  marks  lllA  out  of  a  possible  130  ;  Mr.  Barnes, 
third  (£12),  number  of  marks  100  out  of  a  possible  130 ; 
Mr.  Mullins,  fourth  (£9),  number  of  marks  01  out  of  a 
possible  130  ;  Mr.  Gibbs,  fifth  {£6),  number  of  marks  SSJ^ 
out  of  a  possible  130;  H.  St.  Maur,  Esq.,  sixth  (£4).  The 
prizes  for  floral  decoration  in  this  class  fell  to  the 
following:  First,  Duke  of  Westminster;  second.  Earl  of 
Harrington  ;  third,  J.  Farquhar,  Esq, 

Class  75  provided  for  twelve  dishes  of  fruit  in  twelve 
distinct  varieties,  not  less  than  nine  kinds  and  not  more 
than  two  varieties  of  a  kind,  black  and  white  Grapes  to 
be  considered  as  distinct  kinds  of  fruit,  two  bunches  of 
each  to  be  shown,  Pines  excluded.  Here  there  were  four 
competitors,  E.  Bowley,  Esq.,  of  Dublin  (gardener,  Mr. 
J.  Cane),  winning  first  prize  with  an  excellent  collection.  We 
hail  with  pleasure  the  advent  of  an  exhibitor  of  fruit  from 
the  Green  Isle,  and  hope  to  see  more  of  them.  What  has 
beceme  of  our  Grape-growing  friends  from  Scotland,  who 
for  years  fought  bravely  for  honours  at  this  meeting? 
Their  absence  is  much  felt  and  regretted.  Mrs.  F.  Need, 
Malvern  Gardens  (gardener,  Mr.  Jones),  took  second 
place  with  a  very  meritorious  collection,  third  prize  falling 
to  the  Executors  of  Lady  Ashburton  and  the  fourth  prize  to 
Harold  St.  Maur,  Esq, 

The  next  class  in  importance  was  Class  76,  which  asked 
for  nine  dishes  of  fruit,  not  less  than  five  kinds  and  not 
more  than  two  varieties  of  a  kind,  including  two  bunches 
of  black  and  two  bunches  of  white  Grapes,  This  class  was 
open  only  to  growers  in  the  County  of  Salop.  The  first 
prize  was  won  by  Captain  Hey  wood  Lonsdale  of  Shavington 
(gardener,  Mr.  Mills)  with  an  excellent  collection,  second 
prize  being  awarded  to  Mrs.  Swann  of  Halston  Hall.  The 
first  prize  for  decoration  in  this  class  went  to  Mrs.  Swann 
and  the  second  to  Captain  Heywood  Lonsdale.  Class  77, 
provided  for  four  bunches  of  Grapes,  distinct  varieties,  two 
bunches  of  black  and  two  of  white,  was  well  contested, 
no  fewer  than  nine  competitors  putting  in  an  appearance. 
Lord  Harlech  (gardener,  Mr.  Lamliert)  secured  the  first 
prize.  The  second  fell  to  H.  Andrews,  Esq.,  Winchcombe 
(gardener,  Mr.  J.  R.  Towley);  third,  the  Earl  of  Derby 
(gardener,  Mr.  E.  F.  Hazelton). 

Class  78  was  devoted  to  two  bunches  of  Black  Hamburgh 
Grapes.  This  brought  up  fourteen  contestants,  the  first 
prize  going  to  A.  Coats,  Esq.,  Glen  Conway;  second,  J. 
Brinton,  Esq.,  Stourport ;  third,  H.  St.  Maur,  Esq.  For 
the  best  single  bunch  of  Black  Hamburgh  the  first  prize 
went  to  H.  St.  Maur,  Esq.  For  two  bunches  of  black 
Grapes  (Muscat  varieties)  the  first  prize  went  to  two 
model  bunches  of  beautifully  finished  Madresfleld  Court 
belonging  to  Colonel  France  Hayhurst;  second,  Mr. 
Goodacre,  with  splendid  examples  of  Muscat  Hamburgh. 
Two  bunches  of  Madresfield  Court ;  First,  Colonel  France 
Hayhurst ;  second,  Mr,  Goodacre ;  third,  E.  Bowley,  Esq. 
Class  82  was  devoted  to  Black  Alicante.  Considering  what 
an  easily  grown  Grape  this  is,  the  examples  submitted 
were  only  of  ordinary  merit,  the  first  prize  going  to  G. 
Farquharson,  Esq.  ;  second,  Colonel  France  Hayhurst. 
In  the  class  for  any  other  black  Grape  (two  bunches)  the 
first  prize  fell  to  the  Rev.  T.  M.  Bulkeley  Owen,  West 
Felton  (gardener,  Mr.  Langley),  showing  splendid  bunches 
of  Gros  Maroc ;  second,  Mr.  Goodacre,  for  the  same 
variety ;  third,  Mr.  Jones  of  Malvern.  In  the  class  for 
Muscat  of  Alexandria  (two  bunches)  there  were  eight  ex- 
hibitors, the  first  prize  going  to  the  Duke  of  Westminster  ; 
second,  the  Earl  of  Harrington  ;  third,  H.  Andrews,  Esq., 
Winchcombe.  In  the  class  for  a  single  bunch  of  white 
Muscat,  the  first  prize  was  awarded  to  Lord  Harlech  and 
the  second  to  the  Earl  of  Harrington.    There  were  classes 


provided  for  single  dishes  of  Melons,  Apricots.  Peaches, 
Nectarines  and  other  hardy  fruits,  which,  however,  lack 
of  space  prevents  us  noticing  in  detail. 

HONORARV  E.\HIBITS   OF  FRUIT  TREES. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  filled  one  of 
the  centre  annexes  in  the  great  plant  group  tent  with  a 
magnificent  collection  of  fruit  trees  in  pots.  These 
included  standards,  pyramids  and  bushes  of  Peaches  and 
Nectarines,  all  splendidly  fruited.  Plums,  Pears,  Apples, 
Figs  and  Gooseberries  were  also  included,  all  heavily 
laden  with  fruit.  It  was  generally  remarked  that  a  better- 
grown  or  more  heavily  fruited  lot  of  orchard  fruit  trees 
in  pots  had  seldom  been  seen.  The  new  variety  Peregrine 
was  much  in  evidence,  bearing  good  crops  of  large  fruits. 
It  is  not,  we  think,  generally  known  that  this  variety  is  a 
very  early  one,  coming  in  with  Cardinal  Nectarine  when 
grown  under  the  same  conditions.     Gold  medal  awarded. 

The  King's  Acre  Nursery  Company,  Hereford,  exhibited 
a  splendid  collection  also  of  fruit  trees  in  pots,  bearing 
heavy  crops  of  splendid  fruits.  They  included  Vines, 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  Figs,  Apples,  Pears,  &c.  Their 
espalier-trained  tree  of  Sea  Eagle  Peach  was  a  wonderful 
example  of  what  can  be  done  with  fruit  trees  in  pots  when 
this  mode  of  culture  is  well  understood  and  adopted. 
These  two  exhibits  should  do  much  to  arouse  interest  in 
this  inexpensive  and  profitable  method  of  growing  fruit. 
Awarded  a  silver  cup. 

Vegetables, 

For  some  years  nurserymen  have  offered  valuable  prizes 
for  competition  in  this  section.  This  year  these  prizes 
were  not  forthcoming,  to  the  very  evident  loss  of  interest 
and  value  iu  this  important  section  of  the  show,  and  it  is 
to  be  hoped,  both  in  the  interest  of  the  show  itself,  as  well 
as  to  the  influence  and  impetus  these  valuable  prizes  have 
given  in  the  improvement  and  increased  culture  of  these 
most  essential  products  of  the  garden,  that  any  difficulty 
which  has  arisen  between  the  show  authorities  and  the 
trade  will  soon  be  smoothed  over. 

Handsome  prizes  were  offered  by  the  society  for  nine 
dishes,  the  first  prize  of  £10  falling  to  Mr.  J.  Hudson  of 
Leicester.  The  collection  consisted  of  Cauliflowers,  Leeks, 
Giant  White  Celery,  Emperor  Tomato,  Ailsa  Craig  Onion, 
Exhibition  Runner  Beans,  Prizewinner  Carrots,  Stourbridge 
Marrow  Peas  and  Duke  of  York  Potato.  The  Duke  of 
Portland  (gardener,  Mr.  Gibson)  took  second  prize  ;  the 
Earl  of  Lathom  (gardener,  Mr.  Ashton)  being  placed 
third.  There  was  a  second  class  for  nine  dishes,  in  which, 
however,  the  prizes  were  of  less  value.  Here  there  were 
four  entries,  the  first  prize  going  to  H.  T.  Tatham,  Esq. 
(gardener,  Mr.  Gaiger) ;  second,  the  Misses  Howell 
(gardener,  Mr.  Jones) ;  third.  Sir  F.  G.  Hesketh  (gardener, 
Mr.  Hallet).  In  the  class  limited  to  growers  in  Salop 
(nine  dishes),  the  first  prize  went  to  Lord  Trevor,  Bryn- 
kinalt. 

Special  prizes  were  offered  by  Mr,  E.  Murrell  of  Shrews- 
bury for  collections  of  vegetables.  That  for  a  collection 
of  nine  dishes  brought  three  entries,  the  first  prize  being 
awarded  to  Mr.  Gaiger  of  Elstree  for  a  marvellous  collec- 
tion. In  the  class  for  five  dishes,  limited  to  Salop,  Mr. 
Sanderson  was  placed  first. 

ilr.  Jackson,  Hereford,  offered  prizes  for  five  Cranston's 
Excelsior  Ouions,  first  prize  going  to  Lady  Duckworth 
King  (gardener,  Mr.  Baker),  for  some  grand  bulbs. 

Messrs.  Pritchard  and  Sons  offered  prizes  for  six  bulbs 
of  their  st- lected  Champion  Onion,  the  first  prize  going  to 
Mr.  Weston,  Shawbury. 

Messrs.  Dickson  and  Robinson  of  Manchester  offered 
prizes  for  many  of  their  novelties,  including  their  Money- 
maker Tomato,  for  which  fourteen  lots  were  staged,  Mr. 
Davies  of  Bangor  being  first.  For  Hercules  Peas,  Mr 
Gaiger  was  first.  For  Manchester  Melon,  G.  A.  Gibbs,  Esq., 
M.P.  (gardener,  Mr.  Wilkinson),  was  first.  For  their  beat 
Premier  Onion,  Captain  Heywood  Lonsdale  was  first, 
twelve  lots  being  staged.  Mr.  Ashton  showed  the  best 
Leeks. 

Messrs.  Webb  of  Wordsley  offered  prizes  in  ten  classes. 
Their  Empire  Tomato  was  shown  in  grand  form  by  the 
Marquess  of  Northampton,  Castle  Ashby  (gardener,  Mr. 
Searle),  to  whom  the  first  prize  was  awarded.  Mr,  Hudson 
gained  first  prize  for  a  fine  sample  of  Stourbridge  Marrow 
Pea.  This  exhibitor  was  also  placed  first  in  the  class  for 
new  Exhibition  Runner  Beans,  Mr.  Searle  taking  first 
place  with  Carrots  long  and  short.  For  Selected  Ailsa 
Craig  Onion  Mr.  Hudson  was  first.  Mr.  Ashton  had  the  < 
best  Leeks,  and  Mr.  Searle  was  first  for  Pink  Perfection 
Celery,  Mr.  Hudson  again  winning  with  Caulifiowers  and 
Cucumbers.  In  the  society's  classes  for  single  dishes  of 
all  vegetables  In  season  were  some  splendid  examples  of 
culture,  although  it  was  noted  that  on  the  whole  Cauli- 
fiowers were  not  of  a  good  colour. 

The  large  vegetable  tent  was  made  doubly  interesting 
by  the  splendid  honorary  exhibits  sent  by  the  Hon.  Vicary 
Gibbs  (gardener,  Mr.  Beckett).  To  say  that  this  collection 
contained  every  conceivable  kind  and  variety  of  vegetable 
in  season,  and  also  that  it  was  among  Mr.  Beckett's  best 
efforts,  not  alone  as  regards  cultural  merit,  but  also  in  the 
handsome  way  the  dishes  were  got  up  and  arranged,  is 
high  praise,  which  it  well  deserved.  A  gold  medal  was 
awarded. 


ROYAL   HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  OF  ABERDEEN. 

The  annual  three  days'  show  of  this  society  was  held  in 
three  large  marquees  in  the  Duthie  Park,  Aberdeen,  on 
August  10,  20  and  21,  and  was  one  of  the  best  in  the  history 
of  the  society.  There  were  in  all  almost  1,600  entries, 
only  a  few  less  than  last  year,  while  it  was  universally 
acknowledged  that  the  exhibits  were  of  higher  quality 
than  on  that  occasion.  In  the  sections  in  which  the  show 
was  arranged  the  exhibits  were  generally  remarkably  good. 
Potatoes,  perhaps,  being  the  classes  in  which  there  was 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  August  2itk,  1909 


SOME    GOOD 
NEW    NARCISSI. 

1.  Childe  Harold.  3    Mariette 

2.  Oliver  Goldsmith      4    Coneen. 

5    Evangeline. 


Hudson  &  Kcnt-iis,  Ltd.,  Printa^,  Condon,  S.E 


i 


GARDEN. 


No.  1972.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


September  4,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


Lilies    and    How   to 
Grow  Them     . .     . .    429 

notbs  of  the  week 
Forthcoming  events 
Garden     plans     and 
Rose  photograph 

COKRESFONDENOE 

Narcissus  Engle- 

heartii     430 

Japanese  Irises  in  a 

Cheshire  garden  . . 
OSes  and  other  plants 
at  Messrs.  Stuart 
Low     and     Co.'s 

nurseries     431 

Kitchen  Gakdbn 
Vegetables  for  use  in 

early  spring  . .     . . 
Tbees  and  Shrubs 
Magnolia  grandifiora 

and  its  varieties  . . 
Frdit  Gakdbn 

Fruit  notes       . .     . . 
Flower  Garden 
How  to  grow  Water 

Lilies  in  tubs, . 
Wild  gardening 
Daffodil  notes  . .     . . 
The      Ourisias     and 

their  culture..     .. 


430 


430 


431 


431 


432 


432 


433 
4SS 
434 

435 


Flower  Garden 

The  Silk  Vine  (Peri 
ploca  grasca)  . . 
R08E  Garden 
Rose  Lady  Waterlow    435 
Bose  La    France   de 

'89      436 

0ARDENIN8  FOR  BEGINNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 
week        

Culture  and  propaga- 
tion of  the  Honey- 
suckle       

Potting  Cinerarias 
and  Calceolarias  . . 

Insect     pests     in 

autumn 

The  Town  Garden  .. 

GARDEHINS  op  the  WBKi 

For    the  South   and 

South  Midlands    . .  438 

For  the    North   and 

North  Midlands  ..  438 

4R8WEB8     TO     CORBE- 

BP0RDBKT8 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  438 

Trees  and  shrubs     . .  438 

Greenhouse 439 

Rose  garden      . .     . .  439 

Miscellaneous  ..  439 

SOCIETIES        439 


435 


436 


436 


437 


437 
437 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Japanese  Irises  at  Astle  Hall,  Cheshire 431 

Nymphsea  Marliacea  albida  growing  in  a  tub      . .     . .  433 

A  corner  of  the  wild  garden  at  Walmsgate 434 

A  novel  wild  garden  plant  in  a  Lincolnshire  garden  . .  434 

The  new  Ourisia  macrophylla 435 

Culture  and  propagation  of  the  Honeysuckle      . .    436,  4.S7 


BOITORIALi    NOTICBS. 

Bvery  department  of  hortieiUture  is  represented  in  The 
GARDEN,  tmd  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questioTU 
relating  to  matters  upon  whioh  they  wish  advice  frorr 
nompeteiit  authorities.  With  tliat  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "  ATiswers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  coTispicuous 
featv/ret  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readen 
Witt  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o)  their  assistance. 
AU  communications  mntst  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  o)  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Bditob  of  Thx 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  a/rticies,  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  AU 
reasonable  care,  however,  witX  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
vre  enclosed,  he  vrill  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
co^itributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payjnent  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  mth.  

The  Editor  will  not  berespcnsiblefor  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
amd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  GARDEN 
vim  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  SO,  Tavittnck  Street,  Covent  Oarden,  W.C. 


LILIES    AND    HOW    TO 
GROW    THEM. 

THE  early  summer-time  of  the  present 
year  will  long  be  remembered  as  one 
of  the  most  uncongenial  by  reason  of 
the  almost  incessant  rains,  the  gene- 
rally sunless  time  and  the  remarkably 
low  temperature  that  prevailed,  which,  taking 
the  broadest  possible  view  of  gardening 
operations,  at  that  time  was  not  an  influence  for 
good.  To  some  extent  the  abundant  and 
beneficent  rains  were  required  by  crops  generally, 
and  all  that  was  needed  to  render  the  season  an 
ideal  one  was  that  degree  of  warmth  which  was 
most  conspicuous  by  its  absence. 

Certain  groups  of  plants — the  Pseonies,  Flag 
and  other  Irises,  Larkspurs  and  the  like — delight 
in  an  abundant  supply  of  moisture  at  their  roots, 
while  those  plants  with  frail  or  easily  bent 
stems,  or  others  whose  flower-heads  receive  and 
retain  much  moisture,  are  weighted  down,  and 
the  twisted  and  distorted  stems  rarely  assume 
the  erect  poise  again. 

The  Lilies,  generally  speaking,  were  better 
off,  though  for  some  of  these  the  continuous  cold 
and  wet  was  more  than  they  could  endure,  and  late- 
planted  bulbs,  particularly  those  of  the  auratum 
type,  perished  in  the  soil  as  a  result.  Another 
great  drawback  to  such  prolonged  cold  and  wet 
is  that  certain  species  early  fall  a  prey  to  disease 
of  leaf  and  stem,  and  none  more  so  than  the  still 
welcome  and  beautiful  Madonna  Lily  (L.  candi- 
dum),  which  in  these  days  rarely  passes  through 
a  season  unscathed.  Time  was,  however,  when 
this  pure  and  spotless  Italian  Lily  was  the 
crowning  joy  of  scores — aye,  hundreds— of  British 
gardens,  imparting  to  them  a  beauty  and  a 
fragrance — grateful  and  pleasing,  yet  not  over- 
powering—that rendered  this  lovely  species 
absolutely  and  entirely  unique.  Then  the  tower- 
ing shafts  of  its  blossoms,  ranging  from  4  feet  to 
6  feet  in  height,  were  the  most  prized  possession 
of  the  July  garden,  and  seen  in  groups  or  forming 
low-placed  avenues  beside  spacious  walk  or  drive, 
or  ranging  themselves  at  intervals  like  sentries 
in  the  well-filled  flower  border,  where  grassy 
path  or  near-by  tree  shade  but  revealed  the 
greater  purity  of  the  exquisitely  sculptured 
blossoms,  this  lovely  Lily  was  a  sight  to  behold. 
To-day,  however,  we  have  to  mourn  its  loss, 
either  wholly  or  in  part,  and  in  our  endeavours 
to  retain  it  in  our  gardens  we  adopt  certain 
devices  whereby  we  hope  to  secure  a  small  pro- 
portion of  the  success  of  former  years.  These, 
however,  entail  the  lifting  and  drying  of  the 
bulbs  for  some  considerable  time,  and  if  the 
weakening  effect  of  this  is  to  deprive  our  gardens 
to  some  extent  of  the  imposing  groups  of  former 


years,  we  get  a  little  satisfaction  from  the  fact 
that  a  small  spike  of  Lilium  eandidum  is  better 
than  no  spike  at  all. 

This  exquisitely  pure  and  beautiful  Lily  is  well- 
nigh  of  an  evergreen  character,  and  it  is  doubtless 
largely  due  to  this  characteristic  that  the  plant 
suffers  so  much  from  being  out  of  ground  for  pro- 
longed periods.  Scarcely  have  the  flowers  faded 
in  the  waning  days  of  July  when  a  little  later 
the  new  basal  leaves  appear.  And  for  this 
reason  it  is  highly  desirable — almost  essential,  in 
fact — that  the  bulbs  be  planted  or  transplanted 
during  the  month  of  August.  The  plant  is 
obviously  a  sun-lover,  and  will  raise  its  crowded 
bulbs  to  the  surface  and,  when  in  good  health, 
go  on  flowering  year  after  year  with  apparent 
impunity.  This  Nature-taught  lesson  should  not 
be  overlooked,  and  shallow  planting  generally 
should  be  the  order  of  the  day.  It  will  doubt- 
less be  of  interest  to  readers  of  The  Garden  to 
know  that  this  Lily  may  be  planted  near  trees 
with  excellent  results,  and  especially  so  if  placed 
in  the  near  proximity  of  Yew,  Holly  or  Pine,  the 
dark  colour  of  leaf  and  branch  but  reflects  the 
greater  purity  of  the  blossoms.  On  one  occasion 
some  bulbs  that  had  been  by  accident  left  near 
the  base  of  an  Araucaria  made  a  capital  group  in 
about  three  years,  and  the  effect  was  very  fine. 
It  is  also  highly  probable  that  the  drier  condi- 
tions generally  found  in  such  a  place  are  of 
material  help  in  keeping  the  worst  phases  of  the 
leaf  disease  of  this  Lily  in  check.  Indeed,  some 
bulbs  greatly  weakened  by  disease  planted  at 
the  foot  of  a  Laburnum,  where  they  have  since 
become  carpeted  by  London  Pride,  give  mode- 
rately good  spikes  each  year ;  while  the  picture 
is  so  good  as  to  be  worth  repeating  in  other  parts 
of  the  garden. 

A  very  beautiful  and  generally  a  good  garden 
Lily  is  L.  testaceum.  It  is  of  robust  habit  of 
growth,  possessing  certain  affinities  with  L. 
eandidum,  which  is  one  of  its  reputed  parents, 
and  towering  away  to  5  feet  or  6  feet  high  gives 
its  apricot-shaded  flowers  in  July.  It  is  a  dis- 
tinct and  good  Lily  in  every  way  and,  being  fairly 
cheap,  should  be  found  in  every  garden.  Like 
L.  eandidum,  L.  testaoeum  is  also  an  early  riser, 
and  if  we  bracket  with  these  twain  the  very 
handsome  L.  Hansoni,  we  have,  I  believe,  a  trio 
difficult  to  equal  for  earliness,  distinctness, 
vigour  and  good  flowering.  The  whole  of  these 
flower  naturally  in  July,  and  when  in  good  con- 
dition are  not  likely  to  disappoint  the  cultivator. 
The  last-named  should  be  planted  where  shelter 
is  afforded  both  from  cold  winds  and  strong 
sunlight,  and  if  the  root-run  is  in  comparative 
dryness  so  much  the  better. 

Some  years  ago,  at  the  Lily  conference  at 
Ghiswiok,  I   stated   my  belief   tji^t  the  L'ly  tq 


430 


THE     GARDEN. 


[September  i.  1909 


some  extent  delighted  in  the  root  companionship 
of  other  plants,  and  to-day,  in  the  case  of 
Hanson's  Lily  and  some  others,  I  am  enabled  to 
emphasise  the  point.  The  forms  of  L.  auratum 
are  very  much  at  home  in  these  and  similar 
conditions,  and  in  particular  are  they  benefited 
by  being  associated  with  Rhododendrons  and 
other  plants,  which,  while  affording  shelter  in 
spring  from  late  frosts,  also  protect  the  bases  of 
their  stems  in  summer-time  from  scorching  sun 
and  heat.  This  latter  protection  is  most 
necessary  to  the  more  vigorous  of  the  stem- 
rooting  class  of  which  the  auratums  and  the 
speciosums  are  notable  examples.  Equally 
important  is  it  that  such  as  these  should  be 
planted  rather  deeply,  certainly  not  less  than 
fi  inches,  and  better  at  8  inches,  so  that  these 
stem  roots  as  they  emerge  may  receive  the 
support  the  soil  provides.  Generally  speaking, 
too,  these  great  stem-rooting  sorts  also  delight 
in  rich  soils,  and  manure  may  be  deeply  dug 
into  the  soil  or  afforded  as  a  mulch  with  much 
benefit.  Indeed,  and  as  a  matter  of  fact,  deep 
or  shallow  planting,  manuring  or  otherwise,  may 
generally  be  determined  alike  by  stem  roots  and 
no  stem  roots — those  that  are  said  to  possess 
one,  and  those  which  possess  two,  root-actions 
each  y<=ar. 

Usually  those  Lilies  minus  stem  roots  are  slow 
to  become  established,  and  instances  occur  in 
L.  chalcedonicura,  in  the  Martagon  group  and  in 
some  others,  as,  for  example,  the  swamp  or 
moisture-loving  Lilies  among  others.  Naturally, 
there  may  be  exceptions  to  this  ;  but  the  intelli- 
gent cultivator  in  possession  of  a  broad  basis  to 
work  upon  will  be  able  to  judge  for  himself  and 
to  modify  such  details  as  may  appear  to  him 
necessary  in  his  own  particular  sphere  of  opera- 
tions. The  lovely  and  imposing  L.  Henryi, 
if  secured  low  down  and  afterwards  allowed 
to  go  its  own  way,  will  reveal  a  beauty 
and  grace  that  no  other  Lily  possesses  ;  but  if, 
on  the  other  hand,  its  stately  and  imposing 
stems  are  rigidly  fixed  to  a  Hop-pole,  you  see 
the  latter,  while  the  Lily  for  all  purposes  of 
beauty  and  garden  ornamentation  may  as  well 
be  non  -  existent.  Henoe  the  Lily  may  be 
studied  from  many  standpoints,  and,  being 
unique,  is  worthy  of  all  the  consideration  we  can 
afford.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


will  be  open  to  the  public  on  Thursday, 
September  16,  in  aid  of  the  funds  of  the 
Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent  Institution. 

Blaclc  scab  In  Potatoes.— The  Board 

of  Agriculture  and  Fisheries  desires  to  remind  all 
growers  of  Potatoes  that  it  is  their  duty,  under 
the  Destructive  Insects  and  Pests  Order  of  1908. 
to  report  all  outbreaks  of  warty  disease  or  black 
scab  (Chrysophlyotis  endobiotica)  on  their 
premises  to  the  Board.  The  penalty  for  failing 
to  report  the  disease  is  £10.  Certain  British 
Colonies  now  require  a  certificate  from  the  Board 
with  every  consignment  of  Potatoes  exported  to 
them  from  this  country,  to  the  effect  that  the 
Potatoes  have  been  grown  in  a  district  not 
infected  with  this  disease.  Exporters  who 
require  further  information  can  obtain  it  on 
application  at  the  offices  of  the  Board. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  hy  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

September  8. — Royal  Caledonian  Horticultural 
Society 'sCentenary  Exhibition,  Waverley  Market, 
Edinburgh  (two  days). 

September  16.  —  National  Rose  Society's 
Autumn  Exhibition,  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m. 

Garden  plans  and  Rose  photo- 
S^Paph. — Will  Mr.  .T.  W.  Forsyth,  who  sent 
us  plans  of  gardens  on  July  12  last,  please 
forward  his  address  ?  We  should  also  like  the 
name  and  address  of  the  sender  of  a  photograph 
of  "  Rosa  Brunonis  on  the  North  Side  of  a 
Surrey  House  at  6  p.m." 

Introduction  of  the  Tulip.  —  The 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  -Journal  for  July, 
whieh  is  just  published,  contains  a  most  interest- 
ing article  on  "  The  Introduction  of  the  Tulip 
and  the  Tulipomania,"  by  Mr.  W.  S.  Murray. 
Those  who  are  unfamiliar  with  the  tremendous 
sensation  the  introduction  of  the  Tulip  to 
Europe  caused,  and  the  subsequent  gambling 
with  the  bulbs  as  stakes  that  occurred,  will  find 
much  that  will  interest,  and  not  a  little  that  will 
amuse,  in  this  well-compiled  article. 

TheOardeners'  Royal  Benevolent 

Institution. — By  kind  permission  of  Waldorf 
Astor,  Esq. ,  the  beautiful  gardens  at  Cliveden 


GORRESPONDENOE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinion* 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

Pea  Senator. — I  have  read  with  great 
interest  the  note  on  page  421  respecting  this 
valuable  Pea  and  noted  the  accompanying  illus- 
tration. For  many  years  I  grew  this  Pea  expressly 
to  supply  our  Surrey  school  gardens,  as  no  variety 
I  have  ever  met  with  seems  so  suited  for  sueh  a 
purpose  or  is  so  remarkable  a  cropper.  In  a  trial 
this  year,  which  included  the  new  Rearguard 
and  Senator,  the  latter  was  the  earliest  to  pod, 
the  former  the  latest,  later,  indeed,  than  Glad- 
stone. When  I  think  one  of  the  last  great  Pea 
trials  took  place  at  Chiswick,  both  Senator  and 
Gladstone  obtained  the  highest  awards  as  heavy 
croppers.  I  should  like  to  see  someone  inter- 
cross these  two  varieties  and  doubtless  secure 
from  them  a  midseason  Pea  of  special  merit. 
While  both  have  long,  narrow,  curved  pods,  they 
are  elose  to  the  Peas,  and  invariably  are  well 
filled.  I  think  it  would  be  no  risk  to  back  Senator, 
early,  and  Gladstone,  late,  as  the  heaviest  pro- 
ducers when  shelled  from  a  given  length  of  row  of 
any  Peas  we  have,  and,  remembering  what 
splendid  varieties  we  have,  that  is  saying  much. 
— A.  D. 
Roses  In  West  Lothian  In  1909.— 

Some  few  weeks  ago  I  had  the  privilege  of 
giving  in  The  Garden  a  list  of  the  Roses  that 
nearly  always  succeed  in  this  late,  cold  district. 
Judging  from  the  letters  that  have  reached  me 
these  notes  have  been  of  considerable  interest, 
and  perhaps  a  few  supplementary  remarks  on 
some  of  the  varieties  that  are  not  quite  reliable 
enough  to  have  been  placed  in  that  list  may  also 
be  of  some  use  to  intending  planters  of  the  newer 
Roses.  I  may  say  that  this  has  been  one  of  the 
very  best  Rose  years  in  my  experience  of  this 
district,  and  that  is  rather  curious  when  we 
eonsider  the  cold,  sunless  summer.  Mildew, 
whieh  was  most  troublesome  last  year,  is 
practically  unknown  up  to  the  time  of  writing 
(August  23).  Green  fly  was  plentiful  early  in  the 
season,  but  the  heavy  rains  washed  off  the  bulk 
of  these  pests  that  had  escaped  the  finger  and 
thumb  cure.  The  plants  bloomed  very  late  ; 
indeed,  it  was  the  first  week  in  August  before 
we  had  a  really  good  show.  We  have  been  rather 
unlucky  with  the  beautiful  new  Lyon  Rose,  two 
of  our  best  plants  having  died  during  the  winter. 
It  is  certainly  a  glorious  flower,  for  besides  being 
unique  in  colour  it  has  wonderful  substance,  so 
unlike  numbers  of  the  new  Roses,  which,  un- 
fortunately, seem  to  be  retained  only  for 
colour.  Mrs.  Aaron  W«rd  also  has  substance 
and  the  flower  is  of  a  beautiful  orange,  or,  to 
follow  the  catalogues,  "Indian  yellow,"  shade. 
This  is  our  first  season  with  this  Rose,  so  I  am 
unable  to  say  how  it  will  succeed  under  different 
weather  conditions.  Like  the  majority  of  Pemet- 
Ducher's  introductions,  it  has  excellent  foliage. 
M.  Paul  Led^  is  a  beauty,  but  varies  slightly  in 
colour  ;  some  blooms  are  nearly  pink,  while 
others  are  deeply  tinted  with  yellow.     It  has  a 


fine  upright  habit,  and  I  hope  it  may  prove  a 
constant  friend.  Antoine  Rivoire  is  not  quite  so 
good  as  usual  this  year  ;  it  is  a  very  free  bloomer 
and  stands  wet  fairly  well.  Betty  has  been 
really  grand.  If  some  of  our  raisers  cnuld  only 
give  us  a  perfectly  full  Rose  of  this  colour,  they 
would  confer  a  great  favour  on  all  lovers  of  the 
Rose.  Bessie  Brown. — Only  a  very  occasional 
bloom  ever  opens  of  this  grand  show  Rose.  Dean 
Hole  has  been  rather  disappointing  this  season. 
Edu  Meyer  is  a  lovely  Rose,  but  a  poor  "doer"  in 
this  garden.  Frau  Peter  Lambert  has  done  very 
badly,  the  petals  rotting  with  the  damp.  J.  B. 
Clark  is  a  disappointing  Rose  ;  it  is  vigorous, 
but  the  blooms  hang  down  and  are  by  no  means 
numerous.  L'Innocence  is  a  lovely  white  Rose, 
but  hardly  satisfactory  this  year.  Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert  is  a  beautiful  Rose  when  half-expanded, 
not  quite  full  enough,  but  the  petals  show  fine 
substance.  Mildred  Grant  simply  refuses  to 
succeed  here.  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  has  been  very 
fine  this  season,  the  climbing  form  especially  so. 
Richmond  is  very  poor.  Warrior  is  a  glorious 
colour,  but  the  blooms  lack  substance ;  may  be 
better  after  the  plants  get  well  established. 
William  Shean  is  a  beauty,  but  very  weak  in 
growth  here.  Ben  Cant  has  never  done  much 
good  with  us  and  the  colour  is  rather  poor.  Bob 
Davison  behaves  the  same.  Frau  Karl  Drusohki 
has  been  grand  this  season  ;  but  Helen  Keller 
was  a  failure.  Hugh  Dickson  was  first-rate  in 
every  way.  Hugh  Watson  blooms  well,  but  the 
colour  is  poor  this  year.  Of  the  newer  climbers, 
Dorothy  Perkins,  Griiss  an  Teplitz  and  Leucht- 
stem  have  been  magnificent. — C.  Blair,  Preston 
Bolide  Gardens,  Linlithgow. 

Narcissus   Engrleheartll As 

suggested  by  the  Rev.  J.  Jacob  in  The  Garden 
of  August  21,  that  some  growers  of  this  beautiful 
class  of  Daffodil  should  give  readers  the  benefit 
of  their  experience,  I  have  pleasure  in  sending  a 
few  notes  on  the  constitution  and  vigour  of  the 
varieties  grown  here.  With  the  exception  of  one 
or  two  "miffy  gentlemen,"  I  find  these  flat-cupped 
varieties,  as  a  class,  quite  as  vigorous  as  any  of 
the  other  classes.  Of  course,  there  are  a  few 
weaklings  to  be  found  in  every  class,  such  as 
Tenby,  Colleen  Bawn  and  Tortuosus  among  the 
trumpets.  Princess  Mary  and  Dr.  Fell  among 
incomparabilis,  most  of  the  Johnstoni  varieties 
and  some  of  the  old  double  sorts.  Among  the 
Engleheartii  we  find  Gold  Eye  a  perfectly  heort- 
breaking  variety  ;  it  grows  poorly,  only  gives  an 
odd  flower  and  practically  no  increase.  Egret, 
a  flower  not  unlike  Gold  Eye,  does  better, 
although  by  no  means  robust.  Moira,  a  flower 
of  rare  beauty  and  great  substance,  is  also  rather 
"  miffy."  With  the  exception  of  the  above 
varieties  all  the  Engleheartii  grown  here  are  as 
hardy  and  vigorous  as  Poeticua  ornatus.  The 
beautiful  Incognita  is  a  very  robust  plant,  free 
flowering,  multiplies  quickly  and  does  particularly 
well  as  a  pot  plant.  The  orange  apricot  cup 
stands  the  sun  well ;  of  course,  it  fades  a  little, 
but  does  not  scorch.  Cresset  is  another  well- 
known  flat-cup  that  there  is  nothing  weak  about ; 
its  vivid  orange  red  cup  also  stands  the  sun  well. 
Mr.  Engleheart's  Mars,  a  variety  seldom  seen,  is 
a  charming  flower  with  a  large,  flat,  cinnamon 
buff  cup — a  fine  bit  of  colour — and  a  primrose 
perianth.  This  variety  is  very  vigorous  but  late- 
flowering,  which  possibly  accounts  for  its  absence 
from  the  show  stands.  Another  beautiful  new 
variety  in  this  section  with  a  robust  constitution 
is  Mrs.  Percy  Foster,  a  flower  with  exceptional 
substance  in  its  white  perianth,  but  the  price  of 
this  (five  guineas  a  bulb)  is  still  rather  prohibitive. 
Other  flat-cups  grown  here  are  Dolly,  Lodv  Edith 
Foljambe,  Mrs.  J.  A.  Cooper  and  Pole  Star,  all 
very  vigorous  sorts.  Soil  and  climate  are  im- 
portant factors  in  the  conduct  of  the  different 
varieties,  particularly  the  weak  sorts  ;  all  our 
Daffodils,  however,  are  grown  in  a  rich,  friable 
loam  about  IS  inches  deep,  with  a  limestone 
subsoil. — J.  Sanoster,  Listadell. 

Mr.   Jacob's  remarks  in  a  recent    issue 

in  condemnation  of  the  Engleheartii  varieties  of 


September  4,  1909.] 


THE    GAliDEN. 


431 


Narcissi  seem  to  me  to  be  rather  too  sweeping. 
Engleheartii  ptr  se  is  not  a  "  miflFy  "  section  ;  the 
fact  that  some  of  its  varieties  are  not  strong 
growers  applies  equally  to  all  sections  of  the 
genus  Narcissus.  On  the  face  of  it  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  "flat  eyes"  should  not  be  strong, 
healthy  growers  ;  the  parentage  of  most  of  them 
is  Princess  Mary  x  Poetious.  Princess  Mary, 
here  with  me,  at  any  rate,  leaves  nothing  to  be 
desired  as  to  strength  of  growth  and  floriferous- 
ness,  and  as  to  Poeticus,  its  use  as  a  pollen 
parent,  not  only  in  beautifying  but  also  in  im- 
parting strength  to  the  constitution  of  other 
sections,  is  now,  I  should  think,  pretty  well 
known.  With  one  exception,  those  of  the 
Engleheartii  section  tried  here  grow  like  weeds, 
such  as  Sequin,  Southern  Star,  Concord,  Cresset, 
Chough  and  Harold  Finn  showing  fine  healthy 
growth  and  increase  ;  the  exception  is  Gold  Eye, 
of  which  I  find  several  other  growers  also  com- 
plain. Mr.  Jacob's  mention  of  Dorothy  Pearson 
reminds  me  of  a  curious  incident.  At  the  Bir- 
mingham Daffodil  Show  this  year  I  exhibited  a 
seedling  of  my  own  raising,  Equinox  by  name, 
pedigree  Princess  Mary  x  Chaucer,  three  years 
from  seed,  which  Mr.  Robert  Sydenham  pointed 
out  to  me  was  exactly  identical  with  Dorothy 
Pearson  in  all  respects,  and  this  opinion  was 
subsequently  confirmed  by  other  experts.  It  was 
impossible  for  this  flower  to  have  come  from  an 
offset  accidentally  left  in  the  soil,  as  I  had  never 
had  Dorothy  Pearson  growing  in  my 
grounds. — F.  Herbert  Chapman,  Sye. 

Japanese  Irises  In  a 
Chesnipe  garden.— I  am  sending 
you  a  photograph  of  some  clumps  of 
Japanese  Irises  growing  in  my  piece  of 
water  here.  They  have  flowered  unusually 
well,  and  as  I  have  never  seen  anything 
equal  to  them,  you  may  like  to  insert  a 
photograph  in  The  Garden.  I  have  a 
walk  of  a  little  over  200  yards  alongside 
the  water,  and  have  seventy-one  clumps, 
such  as  you  see  in  the  photograph,  grow- 
ing for  the  most  part  in  and  alongside 
the  edge  in  from  6  inches  to  8  inches  of 
water.  The  whole  of  these  clumps, 
which  are  protected  by  wire  from  rats, 
have  flowered  profusely,  and  as  I  have 
some  of  the  finest  varieties,  they  make  a 
beautiful  sight.  Those  shown  in  the 
illustration  were  planted  about  four  years 
ago,  though  I  have  had  them  all  for  some 
time,  as  I  brought  some  back  from  Japan 
in  1884,  and  I  have  grown  many  from 
seed  taken  from  my  own  plants.  I  am 
able  to  let  the  water  off  in  my  lake,  and 
this  enables  me  to  plant  them  carefully  at  the 
right  depth  and  in  a  good  compost.  In  some 
places  the  muddy  soil  is  good  enough  ;  in  other 
places,  when  it  is  a  bit  sandy  I  make  a  good  bed 
for  them  of  rich  soil  with  some  well-rotted 
manure  mixed  with  it.  They  love  moisture  and 
warmth. — George  Dixon,  Astk  Hall,  Chelford, 
Cheshire. 


we  can  only  emphasise  all  the  good  things  that 
have  been  said  about  this  Rose.  Truly  its 
flowers  are  marvels  of  beauty.  Not  only  do  we 
get  size  and  excellent  form,  but  the  shades  of 
colour  are  really  marvellous.  Seen  at  different 
angles  a  single  bloom  will  give  varying  depths  of 
orange  salmon  hue,  the  result  being  such  as  one 
gets  in  shot  silk. 

A  novelty  which  Messrs.  Low  had  some  doubt 
about,  but  which  has  proved  itself  what  its 
raisers  claimed  it  to  be,  is  a  perpetual-flowering 
Crimson  Rambler.  We  saw  a  large  quarter  of 
this  Rose  in  full  flower,  there  being  also  an 
abundance  of  buds  in  all  stages  of  development, 
so  that  the  plants  should  go  on  producing 
clusters  of  flowers  for  some  weeks.  The  colour 
of  the  flowers  and  the  foliage  is  an  exact 
counterpart  of  the  type,  but  the  blooms  are 
rather  larger. 

Elizabeth  Barnes  is  a  Rose  that  will  be  in 
great  demand  for  garden  decoration  when  once 
its  merits  are  fully  recognised.  The  blooms  re- 
mind one  very  much  of  Mrae.  Abel  Chatenay, 
but  the  colour  is  a  much  deeper  or  richer  shade 
of  salmon  rose  and  furnishes  quite  a  glow  at 
the  bases  of  the  petals.  American  Pillar,  a 
lovely  pink  single  with  white  centre,  and  White 
Killarney  are  two  other  beautiful  novelties. 
Although  that  lovely  variety.  Dean  Hole,  is 
generally  regarded  as  an  exhibition  Rose,  one 
would    not  hesitate    to    include  it   for    garden 


thousands  of  all  kinds,  trained  trees  evidently 
being  a  great  speciality.  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
were  particularly  healthy  and  clean.  Pears 
grown  on  the  cordon  system  were  to  be  seen  in 
abundance,  many  being  trained  on  the  gridiron 
system,  with  three,  four  and  five  rods,  these 
apparently  coming  into  favour  again  with  many 
growers.  Some  of  the  trees  were  carrying 
splendid  crops  of  fruit,  and  all  were  in  perfect 
health.  The  new  Lowberry,  which  has  so  often 
been  mentioned  in  The  Garden,  was  growing 
away  freely  and  producing  good  crops  of  its 
luscious  black  fruits  that  have  a  decided  Black- 
berry flavour.  Phenomenal  may  best  be 
described  as  an  improved  Loganberry.  It  is 
much  sweeter,  has  a  decided  Raspberry  flavour 
and  is  practically  coreless. 

In  the  numerous  and  extensive  houses  we  were 
much  interested  in  the  enormous  quantities  of 
Orchids  grown,  and  although  it  was  a  resting 
season  for  many,  we  saw  a  large  number  of  first- 
class  kinds,  which,  unfortunately,  we  have  not 
room  to  describe.  Perpetual-flowering  Carna- 
tions are,  as  most  of  our  readers  know,  a  great 
speciality  of  this  firm,  and  we  saw  several 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  plants  of  all  sizes  and 
in  all  stages  of  development.  We  think  we  are 
right  in  saying  that  Messrs.  Low  are  never  with- 
out Carnation  blooms  the  whole  year  round. 
Malmaisons,  too,  are  largely  cultivated.  These 
large  nurseries  are  well  worth  a  visit  by  anyone 
who  wishes  to  see  horticulture  carried 
out  on  up-to-date  lines. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN 


M" 


ROSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS 
AT  MESSRS.  STUART  LOW 
AND  CO.'S  NURSERIES. 

DURING  one  of  the  first  bright  and  hot 
k  days  of  August  we  spent  a  most 
I  enjoyable  and  interesting  day  in 
P  the  extensive  nurseries  of  Messrs. 
Stuart  Low  and  Co.  at  Enfield, 
and  many  were  the  good  things  ■ 
that  we  saw,  not  least  among  them  being  the  | 
many  beautiful  Roses  which  find  a  home  here, 
so  near  and  yet  so  far  from  London.  Naturally, 
that  wonderful  variety,  the  Lyon  Rose,  attracted 
our  attention  first,  and  as  it  was  being  grown 
under  ordinary  conditions,  we  were  able  to  see 
it  in  what  may  be  termed  a  natural  state. 
Flowering  freely  and   possessing  great  vigour. 


JAPANESE   IRISES  BY  THE   WATER-SIDE   AT  ASTLE   HALL, 
CHESHIRE. 


decoration  could  it  be  induced  to  flower  as  freely 
as  it  was  doing  in  these  nurseries.  The  long, 
tapering  buds  of  silvery  carmine  and  salmon 
hue  are,  indeed,  beautiful,  and  those  who  prefer 
Roses  of  this  shape  should  grow  Dean  Hole. 
Joseph  Lowe  or  Lady  Faire,  the  charming  sport 
from  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  was  also  flowering  well, 
its  large  salmon  pink  flowers  appealing  to  us 
very  much.  Mme.  Segond  Weber  is  another  of 
the  newer  Roses  that  possess  buds  and  flowers 
of  exquisite  shape,  the  clear  bright  salmon  rose 
colour  proving  most  attractive.  It  has  a  vigorous 
habit  and  flowers  very  freely.  Countess  of 
Derby  is  a  Rose  that  deserves  to  be  very  widely 
grown  ;  the  flowers  are  of  perfect  form,  are  borne 
freely  on  stiff,  erect  stems,  the  colour  being  salmon 
rose  and  the  blooms  delightfully  Tea-scented. 
What  more  can  man  want  in  a  Rose  than  this ''. 
We  were  pleased  to  see  a  good  breadth  of  the 
pure  white  Dorothy  Perkins,  which  promises  to 
become  as  great  a  favourite  as  its  pink  prototype  ; 
it  is  equally  as  vigorous  and  produces  its  clusters 
of  bloom  in  a  lavish  manner. 
Among  the  older  Roses  that  we  noticed  doing 


remarkably  well,  and  which  are  worthy  of  in 
elusion  in  any  garden,  were  Paul  Led6,  Joseph 
Hill,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez,  Viscountess  Folkestone, 
Killarney,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  and  its  climbing 
form,  Frau  Karl  Drusohki  and  Liberty. 

Fruit  trees  are   grown  on  a   very  extensive 
scale  by  Messrs.   Low,  and  we  inspected  many 


VEGETABLES  FOR  USE  IN 
EAELY  SPRING. 
[  ANY  readers  of  The  Garden, 
and  especially  amateurs, 
will  think  it  somewhat  out 
of  place  to  write  on  spring 
vegetables  at  this  season  of 
plenty,  but  of  late  there 
has  been  more  interest  taken  in  the 
vegetable  garden,  and  I  am  pleased  to 
observe  that  many  amateurs  at  the  pre- 
sent time  pay  more  attention  to  quality. 
The  hints  given  are  written  to  show 
the  importance  of  a  good  supply  in  the 
early  part  of  the  year,  a  season  that 
may  be  termed  one  of  scarcity.  To  have 
a  reliable  supply  at  the  season  named, 
preparations  must  have  been  made  before 
this,T)ut  even  now  much  time  may  be  gained  by 
close  attention  to  details.  Of  course,  the  leading 
green  crop  will  be  spring  Cabbages,  and  I  will  later 
on  note  the  value  of  certain  varieties  for  the  work. 
Fortunately,  with  this  vegetable  mere  size  does 
not  count,  the  small  early  varieties  being  vastly 
superior  both  as  regards  flavour  and  earliness.  I 
do  not  intend  to  touch  upon  the  value  of  what 
one  may  term  more  costly  vegetables,  such  as 
Asparagus  and  Seakale,  but  upon  those  more 
easily  grown  and  which,  given  proper  attention 
now,  will  give  a  good  return. 

I  fear  many  persons  have  none  too  great  a 
liking  for  coarse  Cabbages,  and  this  is  readily 
explained.  We  do  not  in  April  get  enough 
variety,  and  Cabbage  is  forced  upon  us,  with  the 
result  that  the  palate  soon  tires.  This  is  not  at 
all  necessary,  as  there  are  other  vegetables  avail- 
able. For  many  years  I  always  planted  a  good 
breadth  of  Brussels  Sprouts,  the  variety  being 
Sutton's  Dwarf  Gem,  a  very  dwarf  variety  and  a 
splendid  keeper  also.  This  was  planted  in 
August  and  much  closer  than  the  large  sorts, 
say,  2  feet  between  the  rows.  The  plants  gave  a 
splendid  return  in  March  and  April,  and  provided 
variety  at  a  critical  period  of  the  year  ;  but  with 
careful  selection  there  are  other  crops  equally 
valuable. 

Cabbages. 
These  head  the  list  owing  to  their  great  value 
if  early,  and  though  it  may  be  full  late  to  sow  in 


432 


THE     GARDEN. 


(September  4,  1909. 


the  northern  part  of  thekingdom,  so  much  depends 
upon  varieties.  Plants  ot  good  varieties  can, 
however,  usually  be  obtained. 

Varieties. — These  are  fairly  numerous,  and  it 
is  impossible  to  go  into  details  as  to  their  value. 
Some  of  the  best  forms  are  useless  when  sown  in 
the  autumn  and  vice  versa.  For  many  years 
Early  Ellam's  was  a  great  advance  on  the  old 
Nonpareil  section,  as  the  last-named  was  later 
and  often  ran  to  seed.  Such  sorts  as  Sutton's 
April,  Flower  of  Spring  and  Favourite  are  small, 
but  compact  and  early,  and  are  difficult  to  beat. 
Veiteh's  Eirliest  of  All,  Carter's  Early,  Johnson's 
First  Crop,  Pearson's  Conqueror,  Wheeler's 
Imperial,  Webb's  Emperor,  the  Paris  Market, 
Yates's  Early  Evesham  and  Black  well  Early  are 
all  excellent  early  sorts  worth  a  trial,  and  there 
are  others,  such  as  Dobbie's  Earliest,  a  great 
favourite  in  the  North.  Of  course,  a  great  deal 
depends  upon  planting,  and  this  should  be  early, 
so  that  the  plants  are  well  rooted  by  winter. 
On  the  other  hand,  this  does  not  mean  a  gross 
growth,  but  a  firm  one.  Huge  quantities  of 
manure  are  not  required,  but  firm  planting  is 
necessary.  My  best  early  spring  Cabbages  always 
followed  spring  Onions.  The  land  was  not  dug, 
but  merely  hoed  over  and  drills  drawn.  It  is 
far  better,  I  find,  to  feed  just  as  growth  is  active 
early  in  the  year  with  liquid  manure  or  nitrates 
or  a  little  guano.  By  growing  these  small  early 
Cabbages  less  room  is  required ;  18  inches  between 
the  rows  is  ample,  and  9  inches  to  I'2  inches 
between  the  plants.  This  last  point  the  amateur 
should  note,  as  it  is  important  and  a  great  saving 
of  space  in  a  small  garden. 

I  have  referred  to  Brussels  Sprouts,  and  such 
vegetables  as  the  late  Borecoles  are  of  great 
value.  These  are  commonly  known  as  Kales, 
and  the  hardy  Arctic  varieties  are  invaluable. 
Sutton's  Arctic  Curled  is  remarkably  hardy,  very 
dwarf  and  gives  a  great  crop  of  good  leafage.  Of 
the  older  curled  forms  Sutton's  Al  is  a  very 
beautiful  winter  variety,  with  a  growth  some- 
what like  a  Brussels  Sprout,  producing  a  mass  of 
small  curled  Sprouts  of  delicious  quality,  very 
hardy  and  prolific.  Veiteh's  New  Sprouting 
Kale  is  also  a  remarkably  tine  winter  and  spring 
vegetable,  dwarf  and  hardy,  and  a  great  advance 
on  the  old  curled  varieties,  as  it  remains  good  a 
long  time  without  running  to  seed.  A  new  Kale 
of  recent  introduction  is  Carter's  Drumhead,  a 
very  distinct  form  with  a  solid  Cabbage-like 
head  and  equal  in  quality  when  cooked  to  an 
early  spring  Cabbage.  This  I  grew  last  winter, 
and  with  many  other  sorts  badly  injured  or 
killed  Carter's  Drumhead  was  uninjured  ;  it  is  a 
compact  grower  and  worth  room  in  all  gardens. 
Roots. 

These  may  be  made  more  use  of  than  is 
often  the  case,  but  by  this  I  do  not  mean  the 
huge  roots  one  often  sees  in  shows  ;  for  instance, 
what  is  nicer  than  young  tender  Carrots?  and  by 
sowing  in  August  or  the  early  part  of  September 
in  land  well  dressed  with  fresh  lime  and  soot, 
young  roots  will  be  available  from  November  to 
May.  For  this  purpose  such  varieties  as  Sutton's 
Early  Gem,  Carter's  Early  Horn  or  Early  Market 
are  most  useful,  as  though  small  the  roots  are 
sweet  and  make  a  good  winter  vegetable.  The 
Carrot  grown  thus  is  quite  hardy  and  may  be 
left  in  the  beds  till  April  and  used  as  required, 
as  in  severe  weather  it  is  an  easy  matter  to 
place  some  long  litter  over  a  portion  of  the  bed. 
The  yellow-fleshed  Turnips  are  worth  a  place. 
I  am  aware  they  are  not  appreciated  by  some, 
but  in  the  early  months  of  the  year  when  properly 
cooked  and  well  served  they  are  delicious. 
Sown  in  August  and  September  for  use  at  that 
season  they  are  most  acceptable.  Such  sorts  as 
Sutton's  Yellow  Perfection,  Y'ellow  Six  Weeks, 
Golden  Ball  and  the  older  Orange  Jelly  are  all 
good  and  keep  solid  well  into  the  spring.  They 
should  have  an  open  position  and  plenty  of  room. 
They  winter  well  in  their  growing  quarters  if  a 
little  soil  is  drawn  up  to  the  roots  in  winter. 
Other  roots  include  auoh  vegetables  as  Celeriac, 
Salsify  and  Soorzoners.  G.  Wythes. 


TREES    AND   SHRUBS. 

MAGNOLIA  GRANDIFLORA  AND  ITS 
VARIETIES. 

IN  the  Midland  and  Northern  Counties  of 
England  Magnolia  grandiflora  is  grown, 
almost  without  exception,  as  a  wall  plant. 
Further  South,  however,  it  grows  well  in 
the  open  ground  and  attains  a  consider- 
able size,  sometimes  forming  a  large  bush 
branched  to  the  ground,  and  at  other  times 
forming  a  trunk  I  foot  or  so  in  diameter  with  a 
good  head  of  branches.  In  whichever  way  it  is 
met  with  it  forms  an  attractive  feature,  for  it 
makes  an  excellent  covering  for  a  high  wall, 
while  in  the  open  ground  it  forms  a  noble  ever- 
green specimen.  In  addition  to  its  usefulness  as 
an  evergreen,  it  has  the  advantage  of  producing 
extremely  beautiful  flowers,  which  are  larger 
than  those  of  any  other  hardy  tree.  The  species 
appears  to  have  been  popular  ever  since  its 
introduction  in  1737,  and  during  the  early  half 
of  last  century  a  great  deal  of  notice  appears  to 
have  been  taken  of  it  and  variations  from  the 
type  were  eagerly  sought  after.  Loudon  men- 
tions a  nurseryman  at  Angers,  M.  Roy,  who 
catalogued  eighteen  varieties ;  it  is  doubtful, 
however,  whether  all  these  were  really  distinct, 
and  a  comparatively  small  number  now  exist. 

In  its  home  in  the  Southern  United  States  it 
is  known  as  the  Bull  Bay,  and  it  is  stated  to 
there  form  a  tree  70  feet  to  100  feet  in  height. 
In  English  gardens  it  does  not  attain  to  anything 
like  its  natural  size,  and  specimens  30  feet  high 
are  an  exception,  wkile  in  the  open  ground 
15  feet  to  25  feet  is  its  usual  height.  In  the 
neighbourhood  of  London  numerous  fine  examples 
are  to  be  met  with,  and  two  fine  bushes  may  be 
seen  in  the  Azalea  garden  at  Kew. 

Like  other  Magnolias,  this  is  impatient  of  root 
disturbance,  and  it  should  be  planted  in  its 
permanent  quarters  when  quite  small.  A  rather 
light,  well-drained  soil  suits  it  best,  and  it  is 
partial  to  a  little  peat.  Propagation  is  usually 
effected  by  means  of  layers,  which  take  two  years 
to  become  really  well  rooted.  The  species  is  too 
well  known  to  need  description,  its  immense 
leathery  leaves  and  fragrant  white  flowers 
9  inches  across  being  familiar  objects.  Attention 
may,  however,  be  directed  to  the  varieties,  some 
of  which  are  well  worth  consideration. 

M.  g.  anyustijolia  is  readily  distinguished  by 
reason  of  its  smaller  leaves  than  those  of  the 
type.  They  are  usually  from  7  inches  to  8  inches 
long  and  2  inches  to  21  inches  wide  ;  the  flowers 
are  also  smaller  than  those  of  the  type. 

M.  g.  Jirrruginea. — The  principal  distinctive 
mark  of  this  variety  is  the  thick,  reddish  felt 
which  clothes  the  under-surface  of  the  leaves. 
Though  this  felt  is  present  to  some  extent  on 
most  plants  of  the  type,  it  is  much  more 
prevalent  in  this  variety.  Leaves  and  flowers 
are  similar  in  size  to  the  type. 

M.  g.  gloriosa  is  by  far  the  most  beautiful  of 
all  the  varieties.  It  differs  from  others  by  reason 
of  its  exceptionally  wide  leaves  and  handsome, 
well-formed  flowers.  The  leaves  are  frequently 
9  inches  long  and  5  inches  to  5J  inches  wide.  It 
is  probably  the  same  as  the  variety  mentioned 
by  Loudon  as  M.  g.  obovata.  It  is  by  no  means 
a  common  or  well-known  form. 

M.  g.  lanceolata  is  sometimes  called  M.  g. 
exoniensis.  The  leaves  are  somewhat  similar 
to  those  of  angustifolia,  but  the  habit  of  the 
plant  is  stiffer. 

M.  g.  rmdulala. — This  differs  from  the  type  by 
reason  of  the  margins  of  the  leaves  being  undu- 
lated.    It  is  not  an  improvement  on  the  type. 

M.  g.  prcecox  is  a  dwarf  form  which  blossoms 
when  but  1  foot  or  2  feet  in  height  ;  it  is  not 
often  met  with. 

M.  g.  variegata.  — It  is  rather  unfortunate  that 
this  variety  has  been  allowed  to  get  into  culti- 
vation. The  leaves  are  marked  with  yellow,  but 
the  variegation  is  not  good  and  the  plant  is  not 
nearly  so  effective  as  the  type.  W.  D. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

FRUIT    NOTES. 

TOP-DRESSING  YOUNG  TREES.— 
Generally  speaking,  when  young  fruit 
trees  are  well  planted  in  soil  that  has 
previously  been  thoroughly  prepared 
they  make  rather  more  growth  than 
the  grower  desires  in  the  first  season, 
and  it  is  commonly  the  case  that  they  have  to  be 
lifted  and  replanted  with  a  view  to  checking  this 
tendency  towards  exuberance.  Thereare  instances, 
however,  where  the  progress  is  not  as  good  as  it 
ought  to  be,  and  recourse  must  then  be  had  to 
something  that  will  encourage  them  to  advance. 
To  this  end  it  is  excellent  practice  to  remove 
2Jnches  or  3  inches  of  the  surface  soil  and  spread 
on  a  heavy  dressing  of  thoroughly  rotted  manure, 
that  from  cows  being  peculiarly  advantageous  for 
this  purpose,  and  then  cover  in  with  the  soil 
that  was  taken  off.  There  is  not  the  slightest 
doubt  that  the  trees  will  derive  benefit  from  this 
during  the  present  season  and  considerably  more 
in  the  following  spring,  while  in  the  early 
summer,  after  the  application  it  will  be  seen 
that  clean,  excellent  growth  has  been  encouraged. 
In  the  event  of  this  method  of  procedure  not 
being  convenient  to  growers,  much  good  may  be 
done  by  pricking  over  the  surface  and  applying 
basic  slag  at  the  rate  of  4oz.  or  5oz.  to  the  square 
yard  from  within  an  inch  or  2  inches  of  the 
main  stem  to  at  least  3  feet  away  from  it. 

Hoe  and  Water  Borders. — These  are  two 
of  the  most  important  operations  in  connexion 
with  the  culture  of  fruit  on  walls,  as  well  after 
the  crop  has  been  harvested  as  before.  Many 
growers  who  do  not  appreciate  this  fact  are 
prone  to  leave  such  work  alone  directly  the 
fruits  have  been  gathered,  with  the  natural 
result  that  the  previous  good  work  will  be 
largely  nullified.  Keep  the  hoe  going  through 
the  surface  of  the  soil  right  on  into  the  winter, 
and  as  frequently  during  that  period  of  cessa- 
tion of  growth  as  the  state  of  the  weather 
permits.  Not  only  do  we  thus  admit  rain  when 
it  falls,  but  also  fresh  air,  which  keeps  the  soil 
pure  and  sweet,  while  at  the  same  time  we  make 
it  absolutely  impossible  for  weeds  of  any  kind  to 
obtain  a  hold  in  the  ground.  The  Dutch  hoe 
should  be  utilised  as  a  rule,  but  it  ought  to  be 
put  aside  occasionally  and  the  draw  or  cutting 
hoe  used  in  its  stead.  Watering,  again,  is  ot 
paramount  importance  when  the  trees  are  finish- 
ing up  for  the  year,  and  just  as  heavy  soakings 
are  given  earlier  in  the  season  to  assist  the 
swelling  of  the  fruits,  so  should  they  be  continued 
now  to  help  in  the  plumping  up  of  the  buds  that 
are  to  carry  the  crop  next  year.  The  applica- 
tions should  commence  close  up  to  the  foot  of 
the  wall  and  extend  outwards  at  least  two-thirds 
as  far  as  the  branches  of  the  tree  grow  high. 

Trees  After  Fruiting. — During  the  time 
that  trees  are  finishing  their  crops  it  is  practi- 
cally impossible  to  keep  them  as  scrupulously 
clean  as  we  should  like,  since  nothing  stronger 
than  water  is  permissible,  and  even  that  has  to 
be  withheld  at  a  certain  stage.  Therefore, 
immediately  all  the  fruits  are  off  the  trees  each 
one  ought  to  be  submitted  to  a  particularly  close 
inspection,  and  should  any  trace  of  insect  pests 
be  found  let  them  be  at  once  eradicated.  In 
mild  attacks  vigorous  hosing  will  do  all  that  is 
necessary,  but  in  serious  cases  it  will  be  necessary 
to  have  recourse  to  one  of  the  many  excellent 
and  perfectly  reliable  insecticides  that  will  be 
found  advertised  in  the  pages  of  The  Garden. 
These  should  always  be  used  in  strict  accordance 
with  the  instructions  prepared  by  the  manu- 
facturers, since  they  know  just  what  the  washes 
will  do  when  they  are  properly  used.  Home- 
made solutions  of  soft  soap,  quassia  and  paralfiii 
are  reliable  and  inexpensive,  but  the  cultivator 
has  the  additional  trouble  of  preparing  them,  and 
in  any  in  which  paratfin  forms  an  important 
constituent  this  task  is  far  from  being  as  easy  as 
it  sounds.  Froit-orowbr. 


September  4,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


433 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


HOW  TO    GROW  WATER    LILIES    IN 
TUBS. 

THE  work  of  M.  Latour-Marliao  and 
others  in  the  production  of  new 
Water  Lilies  has  done  much  to  add 
to  the  enjoyment  of  our  gardens  and 
grounds,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  the 
impetus  these  new  plants  have  given 
to  the  cultivation  of  aquatics  is  fully  realised  by 
many.  They  have  added  new  features  to  our 
gardens,  and  now  the  lake,  the  pond,  or  the  tank 
is  one  of  the  most  fascinating  adjuncts  to  the 
garden  during  the  time  when  these  Nymph  ajas 
are  in  bloom.  Those  who  possess  in  their  gardens 
or  grounds  such  features  as  these  are  to  be  con- 
gratulated upon  their  good  fortune,  for  with 
their  charming  occupants  they  are  objects  of 
the  keenest  enjoyment  to  the  flower-lover. 

Fortunately,  however,  the  possession  of  these 
lovely  flowers  is  not  confined  to  the  owner  of  the 
extensive  garden  or  to  the  man  of  means.  The 
villa  and  the  cottage  garden  need  not  be  devoid 
of  these  fine  Nymphseas,  and  in  lieu  of  the  lake 
or  the  pond,  the  simple  tub  may  be  the  home  of 
one  of  these  exquisite  flowers  in  the  small  garden, 
and  a  series  ot  these  will  enable  the  owner  to 
cultivate  quite  a  good  selection  of  Nymphseis 
without  unduly  trenching  upon  his  space  or  his 
pecuniary  resources. 

The  first  consideration  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
plants  is  that  of  a  suitable  position  for  the  tub 
or  tubs.  It  must  be  in  a  sunny  place — one, 
preferably,  where  it  will  receive  the  sun  from 
morning  until  night — as  much  of  the  success  of 
the  cultivator  will  depend  upon  the  warming  of 
the  water,  and  in  full  sun  the  flowers  will  open 
earlier  and  will  continue  open  much  later,  as 
well  as  beginning  sooner  and  continuing  longer 
in  the  season.  Some  stand  the  tub  on  the 
ground,  but  the  little  receptacle  can  be  made 
much  more  natural-looking  if  sunk  to  its  rim  in 
the  soil  and  with  its  edge  covered  with  stones  to 
imitate  a  rockwork  edging.  I  have  found  it  an 
advantage  to  secure  a  small  ring  of  wood  with 
nails  round  the  interior  of  the  tub,  a  few 
inches  beneath  the  edge,  and  to  fix  on  this  stones 
so  to  hide  the  wood  of  the  tub  itself.  It  is 
wonderful  what  a  difference  to  the  appearance 
this  makes. 

Tubs  are  comparatively  easily  obtained.  A 
petroleum  cask  sawn  in  half  will  make  two  with- 
out much  additional  expense.  Some  use  a  larger 
size  form  of  cisk,  such  as  those  in  which  oil 
for  factories  is  purchased.  This  is  out  in  two 
in  a  similar  way.  The  cheapest  tub  of  a  satis- 
faotery  kind  is  that  formed  of  a  cask  in  which 
treacle  is  supplied  for  farm  and  other  uses.  This 
ia  well  hooped  ;  and  here  it  is  advisable  to 
remark  that  casks  with  wooden  hoops  should 
have  these  removed  and  ethers  of  metal  sub- 
stituted. 

The  casks  should  be  sawn  in  equal  parts,  the 
edges  partly  smoothed  down,  and  the  bore-hole, 
generally  in  one  end,  plugged  and  made  water- 
tight. Where  the  tubs  are  set  on  the  ground,  a 
plug-hole  with  a  plug  may  be  provided  a  few 
inches  above  the  bottom,  so  as  to  drain  off  the 
water  if  required.  Where  the  tub  is  sunk  this 
is  unnecessary,  as  the  water  will  not  need  to  be 
removed,  all  that  is  necessary  being  the  replace- 
ment of  the  liquid  lost  through  evaporation,  &o. 
Although  the  water  may  be  a  little  dull  at  first 
after  putting  it  into  the  tub,  it  will  purify  itself, 
and  allowing  a  little  of  the  eonfervoid  growth 
which  will  appear  to  remain  will  tend  to  keep 
the  water  pure,  although  this  growth  must  not 
be  allowed  to  become  too  dense.  The  tub  in 
which  the  Nymphsea  shown  in  the  illustration 
is  grown  has  been  filled  with  water  for  about 
four  years ;  this  has  never  been  changed,  and 
no  offensive  odour  has  been  perceived. 

When  the  tub  is  in  position,  about  6  inches  of 
good  soil,  either  ordinary  or  turfy  loam,  with 


the  addition  of  a  little  decayed  manure,  may  be 
put  in.  I  prefer,  however,  to  omit  the  manure 
where  the  tub  is  near  the  house,  as  an  offensive 
odour  may  be  emitted  for  some  time. 

In  this  soil  the  Nymphaea  may  be  planted 
before  the  water  is  filled  in.  Should,  however, 
the  water  have  been  put  in  previously,  the 
Water  Lily  may  be  planted  in  something  of  the 
nature  of  an  old  Strawberry  punnet  or  small 
basket,  with  plenty  of  holes  about  it  through 
which  the  roots  of  the  Water  Lily  may  find  their 
way.  The  crown  of  a  straw  hat  may,  indeed,  be 
used  in  default  of  anything  else.  The  plant  is 
placed  in  this  with  a  little  soil  above  and  below 
the  roots,  and  this  is  weighted  with  stones  and 
allowed  to  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  tub.  The 
best  time  to  plant  is  spring,  say,  from  March 
until  May,  but  plants  may  be  successfully  put  in 
much  later. 

There  is  considerable  difficulty  experienced  in 
selecting  the  varieties  to  cultivate,  as  they  are 
now  so  numerous  and  good.  For  small  tubs 
there  is  a  fascination  in  the  small  varieties,  such 
as  the  Laydekeri  section,  including  Nymphfea 
Laydekeri     rosea,    rose,    passing    to    crimson  ; 


The  difficulty  of  selecting  these  larger  varieties 
for  tubs  is  great,  but  every  satisfaction  will  be 
derived  from  those  of  moderate  price.  The 
Marliacea  set  all  give  good  flowers,  such  as  N. 
Marliacea  albida,  shown  in  the  illustration,  which 
is  white  tinged  with  flesh.  N.  M.  oamea,  pink, 
is  also  good,  and  I  may  mention  that  I  had  a 
plant  of  this  flowering  in  August  in  an  ordinary 
zinc  pail.  Chromatella,  yellow,  with  beautifully 
marked  leaves,  is  almost  indispensable.  Rosea, 
rose,  is  also  excellent,  and  there  are  several  other 
Marliacea  forms  more  expensive  but  worth 
growing.  Among  the  many  others  which  are 
suitable  I  think  highly  of  ellisiana,  but,  un- 
fortunately, it  always  keeps  comparatively  high 
in  price  ;  it  is  bright  rose.  Robinsonii,  carmine, 
tinged  violet,  may  be  substituted.  Other  good 
pink,  rose  or  red  varieties  comparatively  in- 
expensive are  Aurora,  oaroliniana,  Froebelii  and 
rosea.  Good  white  Nymphseas  in  addition  to 
those  named  are  alba  plenissima,  the  double 
variety  of  our  common  Water  Lily,  Candida, 
caroliniana  nivea,  odorata  and  tuberosa  Richard- 
sonii,  double.  Yellows  of  various  shades  will  be 
found  in  chrysantha,  flava,  fulva,  rosea  sulphurea 


NTMPH.EA    MAKUACEA   ALBIDA   GROWINc:    IN    A  TUB. 


liliacea,  lilac  and  carmine  ;  purpurata,  deep 
purple ;  or  the  more  expensive  fulgeus,  amaranth, 
pink  and  red.  Then  the  little  white  N.  pygmaea 
and  its  yellow  variety  Helvola  are  very  fine  for 
these  tubs. 

Yet,  after  all,  the  grower  will  yearn  for  the 
possession  of  some  of  the  larger  Nymphaaas, 
delightful  as  are  the  foregoing,  and  the  illustra- 
tion of  N.  Marliacea  albida  shows  that  these  may 
be  cultivated  in  tubs  as  well  as  the  smaller.  It 
is,  however,  desirable  to  eschew  the  fine  N. 
Colossea  and  others  of  great  size  ;  while  a  little 
more  attention  is  required  with  the  variety  illus- 
trated to  ensure  successful  flowering.  The 
smaller  ones  already  named  may  be  planted  with 
the  roots  about  18  inches  deep,  but  the  large 
from  2  feet  to  3  feet.  This  permits  of  the  leaves 
and  flowers  arranging  themselves  nearer  the 
centre  of  the  tub  instead  of  spreading  well  over 
the  edge,  which  they  will  do  if  planted  in  very 
shallow  water.  Then,  when  the  flowers  begin 
to  appear  above  the  surface,  the  leaves  ought  to 
be  thinned  and  the  remainder  so  spread  out  that 
the  flowers  will  receive  the  benefit  of  all  the  sun 
possible.  This,  I  find,  is  one  of  the  cardinal 
points  in  the  cultivation  of  these  larger 
Nymphaeas  in  tubs. 


and   Seignouretii  (a   wonderful    combination   of 
orange,  rose  and  purple). 
Dumfries.  S.  Abnott.  ,■ 


WILD    GARDENING. 

No  aspect  of  gardening  will  yield  a  richer  floral 
reward  in  future  than  the  creation  of  a  wild 
garden  or  wilderness.  At  present  there  is  such 
a  wealth  of  vigorous-growing  hardy  plants 
available  that  some  such  extension  is  becoming 
every  day  more  imperative,  and  it  is  only  by 
frankly  assigning  such  vigorous  subjects  as 
Seneeios,  Astilbes,  Spiraeas  and  Irises  to  the 
wild  garden  that  we  are  ever  likely  to  enjoy 
their  luxuriance  to  the  full.  The  same  limita- 
tion is  felt  when  treating  those  stately  evergreen 
Bamboos  as  garden  subjects  ;  their  place  is  in  dell 
and  by  woodland  walk,  where  they  constitute  a 
most  effective  background  for  all  flowering 
plants,  and  in  winter  their  evergreen  character 
produces  a  pleasing  effect  in  all  woodland  scenery. 
The  whole  idea  of  the  wild  garden  is  to  employ 
plants  capable  of  looking  after  themselves, 
grouping  them  in  large  masses  in  as  natural  a 
manner  as  the  circumstances  admit.  The  nature 
of  the  soil  should  always  be  studied  and  only 


434 


THE     GARDEN. 


I^Septembek  4,  1909. 


plants  amenable  to  the  prevailing  conditions 
selected  for  planting.  Another  point  to  remem- 
ber is  that  the  highly  dressed  character  of  the 
more  conventional  parts  of  the  garden  should 
not  intrude  here. 

The  best  position  for  a  wild  garden  is  the 
woodland,  where  the  ground  is  sharply  undu-  ! 
lating,  and  if  favoured  with  water,  either  in  i 
brook  or  lake,  then  its  possibilities  are  of  the  I 
highest.  Less  favourable  positions,  such  as 
park  drives,  woodland  walks  and  rides,  and  even 
meadow  can  be  successfully  planted,  the  latter 
inviting  experiment  more  particularly  with 
bulbous  plants.  It  is  essential  to  success  that 
the  initial  work  be  performed  in  a  thorough 
manner.  The  position  ought  to  be  well  dug  and 
manured,  breaking  up  the  soil  for  some  distance 
beyond  the  actual  line  of  planting,  as  the  mere 
loosening  of  the  soil  in  woodlands  favours  free 
rooting,  thus  enabling  the  plants  to  become  early 
established,  which  is  of  the  greatest  importance 
where  they  receive  little  or  no  attention  in  after 
years. 

The  best  eflfeots  in  wild  gardening  are  obtained 
by  grouping  one  variety  or  species  at  a  time. 
One  thing  to  avoid  is  border  plantiiig,  with  its 
patchiness  and  over-regularity  of  height.  We 
should  aim  at  bold  grouping,  obtained  either  by 
the  colour  of  the  flowers  or  by  the  form  of  the 
leaves.  Repetition,  especially  with  plants 
having  prominent  characters,  such  as  Gunnera, 
Cortaderia  and  Rheum,  is  mostly  to  be  avoided 
unless  the  ground  is  so  extensive  that  only  one 
group  comes  under  review  at  one  time.  Even  with 
genera  showing  great  similarity,  like  the  Bamboos, 
it  is  possible  to  emphasise  their  distinctive 
characters  by  grouping  those  with  broad  leaves 
together,  e.g.,  Bambusa  palmata  and  tessellata ; 
medium  leaves,  as  represented  by  Arundinaria 
Mistake  ;  upright  growers,  like  Bambusa  erecta 
and  B.  fastuosa ;  those  with  small  leaves  and 
graceful  arching  stems,  such  as  Arundinaria 
anceps  and  Phyllostachys  flexuosa;  and,  lastly,  a 
goodly  clump  of  P.  nigra  for  the  distinctive 
character  of  the  jet  black  stems. 

In  wild  gardening  few  plants  come  amiss,  con- 
sequently native  plants  which  appear  spon- 
taneously should  be  fostered,  and  if  the  following 
are  absent  from  the  locality  it  is  advisable  to 
procure  these  first :  Loosestrife,  Willow-herb, 
Foxglove,  Gentianella  and  Marsh  Mallow.      Of 


A   NOVEL   WILD   GASDEX   PLANT  (mECONOPSIS   WALLICHII)   IN   A   LINCOLNSHIRE   G.1B.DEN. 


exotic  plants  suitable  for  this  form  of  planting 
it  is  well  to  be  guided  by  those  which  are 
thoroughlj'  perennial,  vigorous  in  growth  and 
perfectly  hardy.  This  will  include  all  the  best 
of  our  flowering  trees  and  shrubs,  both  evergreen 
and  deciduous,  and  also  embrace  a  large  number 
of  plants  which  under  ordinary  garden  conditions 
fail  to  do  themselves  justice.  Such  examples 
occur  among  Astilbe,  Anemone,  Hemerocallis, 
Helianthus,  Iris,  Lupine,  Papaver,  Senecio, 
Solidago,  TroUius  and  Verbascum,  every  one  of 
which  requires  more  space  than  ordinary  gardens 
can  supply,  whereas  in  wild  gardening  one  can 
plant  by  the  dozen,  score  or  hundred,  and  so 
obtain  results  that,  in  some  small  way,  approxi- 
mate to  the  effect  produced  by  the  same  species  in 
its  natural  home.  Bulbous  plants  are  never  more 
beautiful  than  when  enjoyed  under  wild  garden 


mm. 

H^^ 

^W: 

'    '-^'■^^f^^lfeik.-J***^*^^'^^^*^  '^"  ■'  ^'  ''^■^'^- 

^^^^^^^^^^^^poK^^^ET  ^^dgn^ji^s£^iiX^H|| 

■^l.:i'y<.^ 

m\ 

conditions.  Winter  Aconite,  ChioDodoxa,  Galan- 
thus,  Scilla,  Fritillaria  and  Narcissus  are  the 
earliest  plants  to  brighten  the  woodland  in 
spring.  Following  these  are  many  species  and 
varieties  of  Lilium,  some  of  which  continue  into 
late  autumn,  there  to  be  joined  by  those  lowly 
subjects,  Colchicums  and  autumn  Oroci. 

Thomas  Smith. 
Walmsgate  Oardens,  Louth. 


A  (;ORNBR  or  THE   \^^LD  I4ABDEN   AT   WALMSGATE,    LINCOLNSHIRE. 


DAFFODIL  NOTES. 
Two  Good  Cheap  Varieties  tor  Gardens. 
The  inoomparabilis  variety,  Leonie,  is  one  of  the 
best  Daffodils  for  either  entire  beds  or  clumps 
in  the  border.  It  is  very  floriferous,  holds 
its  flowers  well  above  the  foliage  and,  in  addition, 
it  lasts  a  very  long  time  in  bloom.  It  has  a  fine 
broad,  overlapping  primrose  perianth  with  a 
widely  expanded  yellow  cup.  As  it  has  a  grand 
constitution  and  as  the  price  is  only  about  Is.  6d. 
per  dozen,  I  would  advise  all  who  want  a  good 
garden  plant  to  try  it. 

When  I  was  at  Lismore  this  spring,  I  saw  in 
Miss  Currey's  gardens  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
sights  that  I  have  ever  seen.  It  was  a  very  long 
bed  of  the  eld  Baroness  Heath,  the  orange  red- 
cupped  Burbidgei.  I  have  known  it  for  years, 
and  can  remember  the  time  when  everyone  con- 
sidered it  a  great  flower ;  bat  I  never  thought 
more  highly  of  it  than  I  do  to-day.  Whether  it 
was  the  sun  just  coming  out  from  behind  a  cloud, 
whether  it  was  the  good  Irish  soil,  or  whether 
it  was  the  enthusiasm  of  my  hostess,  I  cannot 
say  ;  but  the  fact  remains,  that  the  whole  effect 
of  the  droeping,  beautiful  deep  blue-green  foliage, 
which  seemed  to  have  a  silvery  sheen  all  over  it, 
and  the  upright,  small,  deep  yellow  and  red  starry 
flowers  in  their  first  freshness  of  opening  standing 
up  among  the  leaves,  was  something  that  once 
seen  can  never  be  forgotten.  I  have  just  referred 
to  Baroness  Heath  in  Messrs.  Barr's  list ;  it  is 
still  3s.  6d.  a  dozen  or  •25s.  per  100. 

Growing  Bulbs  in  Fibre. 

This  system  has  now  become  very  fashionable. 
There  is  a  great  deal  in  it  to  commend  it 
to  all  "  sorts  and  conditions  of  men  "  and  women. 
Most  firms  who  make  bulbs  at  all  a  speciality 
advertise  some  particular  medium  for  growing 
them  in.  I  have  found  by  experience  that  the 
ordinary  peat-moss  litter,  which  is  sold  for 
bedding  for  horses,  does  very  well  indeed  if  it  is 
well  broken  up  and  then  passed  through  a  fine 


September  4,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


435 


riddle  with  a  quarter  of  an  inch  mesh.  I  mix 
some  lumps  of  oharooal  about  the  size  of  Hazel 
Nuts  or  a  little  larger  with  this  fine  peat  to  help 
to  keep  it  sweet.  I  know,  too,  a  lady  who  only 
uses  ordinary  light  garden  soil  and  who  is  most 
suooessf ul  in  the  cultivation  not  only  of  DaflFodils, 
but  also  with  Tulips  and  Hyacinths.  After  all, 
she  is  only  unconsciously  going  back  in  her 
practice  to  what  Sir  Thomas  More  advocated  in 
1734:  "  These  basons  I  caused  to  be  filled  with 
very  good  Garden  Mould  and  planted  in  the  midst 
Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Anemonys,  Polyanthus- 
Narcissus,  Dafis,  Crocus,  double  Snowdrops." 
"  The  consequence  was,"  he  wrote,  "  I  had  them 
in  as  full  Perfection  as  in  a  Country  Garden  " — 
all  but  the  Tulips — "  which  were  crowded  too 
much."  The  secret  of  good  results  consists  in 
not  giving  too  much  or  too  little  water  and 
keeping  the  bowls  and  vases  in  a  dark,  cool 
place  until  there  are  plenty  of  roots  and  about 
2  inches  of  top  growth.  The 
medium  they  are  grown  in  is 
not  nearly  so  important  a  matter 
as  their  treatment  when  growing. 
Verbum  sap. 

Depth  of  Pots  fob  Daffodils 

A  little  matter  that  makes  a 
considerable  difference  in  thu 
general  effect  of  a  pot  of  Daffodils 
in  a  sitting-room  is  the  proportion 
the  depth  of  the  pot  bears  to  the 
height  and  size  of  the  plants  in  it. 
Take  my  favourite  variety,  W.  P. 
Milner.  This  in  an  ordinary  tall 
pot  loses  much  of  its  grace  and 
elegance,  whereas  if  the  6-inch 
pot  is  only  4  inches  deep  a  far 
better  result  is  obtained  ;  in  fact, 
I  am  rather  beginning  to  think 
that,  except  for  a  certain  few 
large  and  tall  kinds,  shallower 
pots  in  any  size  are  the  best.  At 
Holland  House  Messrs.  D.  Dowel 
and  Son  of  Hammersmith  had  a 
large  selection  of  various  sizes. 
Doubtless  other  firms  supply  the 
same,  but  at  the  present  moment 
I  do  not  know  of  them.  These 
dwarf  flower  -  pots  may  be 
described  as  midway  in  height 
between  a  seed-pan  and  an  ordi- 
nary flower-pot,  and  can  be  had  in 
any  size  between  3J  inches  and 
18  inches  in  diameter. 

Joseph  Jacob. 


effective.  Seeds  of  it  were  received  in  this 
country  in  1906,  from  which  the  present  plants 
were  raised  and  sent  out  b}'  Bees,  Limited,  of 
Liverpool  in  1908.  The  plants  were  grown  in 
pots  in  a  cold  frame,  in  which  they  stood  the 
winter,  and  will  probably  prove  to  be  quite  hardy. 
They  commenced  to  flower  early  in  April  and 
produced  a  succession  of  flowers  for  about  six  ] 
weeks.  As  will  be  seen  in  the  illustration,  the 
plants  form  a  tuft  of  handsome  leaves,  from 
which  the  flower-stems  are  freely  produced. 
These  stems  bear  several  whorls  of  white  flowers, 
eventually  attaining  to  a  height  of  over  1  foot. 
It  promises  soon  to  become  plentiful,  for  it  has 
ripened  plenty  of  seed,  which  was  sown  as  soon  as 
it  was  ripe.  The  seed  germinated  freely  in  about 
a  fortnight  from  the  date  of  sowing.  Another 
species  also  now  in  cultivation,  but  of  which  I 
have  not  seen  a  flower,  is  0.  eookayniana,  also 
from  New  Zealand. 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN, 


THE  OURISIAS  AND 
THEIR  CULTURE. 
Although  there  are  many  beau- 
tiful species  belonging  to  this 
genus  found  in  the  Andes  of 
South  America  and  in  New  Zea- 
land, so  far  only  one  has  become 
well  known  in  our  gardens.  This 
is  the  popular  O.  coccinea,  which  makes  such  a 
lovely  display  when  planted  in  situations  favour- 
able for  its  development.  On  the  margins  of 
small  water-courses  its  creeping  stems  will 
ramble  over  the  damp  stones,  producing  an 
abundance  of  somewhat  oval  leaves,  deeply  and 
irregularly  notched.  From  May  to  September 
the  lovely,  drooping,  scarlet  flowers  are  produced 
in  corymbs  on  stems  reaching  to  a  height  of 
nearly  12  inches.  This  species  comes  from  the 
Island  of  Chiloe,  situated  off  the  south-west 
extremity  of  Chili,  and  was  introduced  into  cul- 
tivation by  Messrs.  Veitch  and  Sons  in  1862.  It 
is  readily  increased  by  means  of  division  in 
winter  or  spring.  Another  species,  0.  oaespitosa, 
has  also  been  in  cultivation,  but  is  probably  lost 
again  or  is  extremely  rare. 

The  latest  addition  of  the  genus  to  our  gardens 
is  the  plant  illustrated,  0.  macrophylla.  It  is  a 
beautiful  plant  and  comes  from  New  Zealand, 
where  in  its  native  habitat  it  is  said  to  be  very 


ROSE    L&.DY    WATERLOW. 

IT  is  quite  a  mistake  to  call  this  lovely  Rose 
a  climber,  because  one  is  apt  to  avoid  it 
if  no  wall  or  arch  space  is  available.  In 
reality  it  will  bloom  as  freely  as  a  bush  or 
standard  as  one  could  desire.  I  had  it 
recently  growing  as  a  3-feet  bush,  every 
shoot  crowned  with  its  exceedingly  pretty  buds 
and  blooms.  I  am  not  at  all  surprised  to  find  it  is 
gaining  in  favour  each  year.  I  sent  a  note  about 
it  soon  after  its  introduction,  in  which,  I  think, 
I  predicted  a  popularity  for  it.  I  hardly  know 
how  to  describe  its  colour.  The  catalogues  call  it 
salmon  rose,  edged  carmine.  This  conveys  no  idea 
of  its  beauty  with  the  lovely  orange  hue  prevalent 
at  the  base  of  the  petals  or  the  delightful  apple 
blossom  tints  of  the  inside  of  the 
outer  petals.  When  the  buds 
expand  they  reveal  a  flower  of 
most  delicate  beauty.  The  growth 
is  good  and  the  foliage  prettily 
serrated  and  elongated,  proclaim- 
ing at  a  glance  to  the  rosarian 
that  it  emanated  from  La  France 
de  '89.  As  I  gathered  a  flower  to 
make  this  note  I  was  attracted 
by  a  lovely  new  wichuraiana 
Rose  named  Joseph  Lamy,  which 
would  make  a  delightful  com- 
panion to  Lady  Waterlow  by 
growing  it  as  a  pillar  Rose  inter- 
spersed over  a  bed  of  bush 
plants  of  the  latter.  The  tinting 
of  Joseph  Lamy  is  of  the  most 
delicate  character,  an  exquisite 
pale  carnation  pink  on  an  ivory 
white  ground  ;  in  fact,  the  flower 
does  not  look  unlike  a  Tree 
Carnation.  There  is  a  delicate 
fragrance  in  this  climber,  but 
Lady  Waterlow  is  devoid  of 
scent. 


THE   NEW   OURISIA    MACROPHTLLA. 

All  these  plants  require  plenty  of  moisture, 
but  at  the  same  time  the  soil  must  not  be  allowed 
to  get  sour.  Loamy  soil  with  plenty  of  leaf-soil 
and  sand  is  suitable  for  them,  but  when  planting 
near  the  edges  of  water  plenty  of  good-sized 
stones  should  be  mixed  with  the  soil.        G.  R. 


THE  SILK  VINE  (PERIPLOCA  GR.ECA). 

Fob  covering  arches,  pergolas  and  buildings  this 
free-growing  climber  is  well  adapted,  and 
deserves  wider  recognition  than  it  possesses  at 
present.  Commonly  known  as  the  Silk  Vine,  it 
IS  of  rampant  growth,  and  will  succeed  in  any 
position  and  almost  any  soil.  The  leaves,  which 
vary  in  shape  from  ovate  to  lanceolate,  are 
of  a  bright  green  colour.  The  flowers  are  pro- 
duced freely  on  the  present  season's  growth 
during  July  and  August,  and  though  of  a  dull 
colour  are,  nevertheless,  quaint  -  looking  and 
interesting.  E.  Beckibtt. 


ROSE  LA  FRANCE  DE  '89. 
The  huge  and  brilliant  rosy  red 
blooms  of  this  grand  Rose  are 
shown  up  to  great  perfection 
upon  a  light-coloured  wall.  It 
is  really  a  beautiful  variety  for 
this  purpose,  few  red  Roses  sur- 
passing it,  for  we  have  not  only 
brilliancy  of  colour  but  size  and 
quality  of  bloom  also.  On  a  bush 
it  somewhat  droops,  so  that  the 
effect  is  lost ;  but  grown  against 
a  wall  or  as  a  standard  it  is  a 
beauty.  Many  individuals  com- 
plain that  the  so-called  climbing 
Roses  possess  but  small  flowers, 
but  here  we  have  a  variety,  though 
not  recognised  as  a  climber,  that 
will  grow  to  quite  a  good  height  and  yield 
a  splendid  show  of  its  Pseony  -  like  flowers. 
I  am  persuaded  we  do  not  use  this  type  of 
Rose  enough  upon  walls  and  fences.  They 
are  superior  to  the  many  so-called  climbers. 
Even  some  of  the  gorgeous  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
are  grand  for  this  purpose.  If  extraordinary 
vigour  is  desired,  this  can  be  attained  by 
planting  freer  growers  ;  but  for  ordinary  j-teet 
to  8-feet  walls  I  prefer  the  type  of  La  France 
de  '89  and  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  where  we 
not  only  obtain  large  flowers  but  a  continua- 
tion of  them  also.  Even  Roses  such  as  Baroness 
Rothschild,  that  are  looked  upon  as  being 
stumpy  growers  in  bush  form,  will,  if  planted 
against  a  wall  and  practically  left  unpruned, 
attain  to  quite  large  dimensions.  Then  there 
are  the  delightful  Teas  of  the  Lady  Roberts 
type,  that  never  fail  to  charm,  and  which 
always  provide  us  with  a  wealth  of  their  beau- 
tiful flowers,  P. 


436 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  September  4,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Large  weeds  on 
lawns  must  be  destroyed  at  once  ;  it 
is  useless  leaving  them  until  the 
winter  or  spring  time  before  dealing 
with  them,  as  they  increase  in  size 
and  destroy  more  grass  around  them. 
If  they  are  got  rid  of  now,  the  grass  will  grow 
over  the  bare  spaces,  and  by  the  month  of  May 
next  there  will  be  no  marks  left  by  the 
weeds.  I  am  referring  to  such  weeds  as  Dande- 
lions, Thistles,  Plantains  and  Docks.  Procure 
some  oil  of  vitriol  in  a  stone  or  strong  bottle,  tie 
a  piece  nf  string  round  the  neck  of  it  with 
which  to  carry  it,  and  wear  gloves,  as  the 
vitriol  burns  and  is  poisonous.  With  the  aid  of 
a  piece  of  ordinary  stick  notched  at  one  end  to 
hold  the  liquid  allow  one  or  two  drops  of  the 
latter  to  fall  right  into  the  centre  or  heart  of 
each  weed.  Weeds  are  more  tender  now  than  in 
winter-time,  and  so  two  drops  of  vitriol  will  be 
sufficient  to  kill  the  largest  on  the  lawn.  Many 
kinds  of  border  plants  make  a  lot  of  growth  at 
this  season,  and  if  at  all  neglected  they  soon 
look  very  untidy.  More  work  will  be  necessary 
at  this  season  in  connexion  with  the  staking  of 
late  growths,  the  removal  of  weeds  by  hand 
and  the  clearing  away  of  fading  foliage,  than 
at  any  previous  time  during  the  year. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Strong  plants  of  Cabbages 
must  now  be  put  out  in  the  open  quarters  where 
they  are  to  remain  until  they  are  used  next 
spring.  There  are  few  better  positions  than  those 
that  have  been  occupied  by  Potatoes.  The  only 
preparation  the  soil  needs  is  its  levelling  ^nd 
a  peck  of  soot  per  rod  being  forked  into  the  sur- 
face to  a  depth  of  about  3  inches.  The  dwarf, 
compact-growing  varieties  should  be  planted  in 
rows  15  inches  apart  and  12  inches  from  plant  to 
plant  in  the  rows.  For  larger  varieties  allow  a 
space  of  18  inches  between  the  rows  and  the 
plants  in  the  latter.  Do  not  put  out  any  blind  or 
club-rooted  specimens.      After  rains  the  earthing 


I. — HONEYSUCKLE  SHOOT  ON  THE  LEFT  SUIT- 
ABLE rOR  MAKING  A  CUTTING  ;  ON  THE 
RIGHT  THE  CUTTING  IS  SHOWN  BEADY  FOR 
PLANTING. 


soil  often  slips  down  in  places  from  the  rows 
of  Celery.  In  replacing  the  fallen  soil  care  must 
be  taken  to  make  a  flat  foundation  for  it,  and  not 
place  it  on  the  sloping  surface,  else  it  will  be 
liable  to  fall  down  again.  Tomato  plants  will 
need  close  attention  now.  Only  very  early 
varieties  which  were  strong  when  first  planted 
out  will  bear  satisfactorily  in  the  open  air  this 
year,  and  as  much  aid  as  possible  must  be  given 
them.  This  will  constitute  the  removal  of  all 
side  shoots  while  the  latter  are  quite  small,  and 
the  topping  of  every  plant  above  a  truss  of  fruits 
which  have  attained  a  size  equal  to  those  of 
Barcelona  Nuts.  All  fruits  that  are  smaller  will 
not  mature. 

Fruit  (r'arden. — Autumn-fruiting  Raspberries 
are  always  welcome  ;  the  berries  may  not  be  as 
sweet  as  the  summer-ripened  ones,  but  they  fill 
a  big  gap  and  prolong  the 
season  of  bush  fruits  \ery 
much.  At  the  present  time 
we  may  expect  strong  winds 
from  the  south  and  south- 
west, and  so  timely  support 
must  be  afforded  the  young 
canes.  The  old  canes  of  the 
summer-fruiting  varieties  must 
be  cut  out  without  delay. 
They  are,  in  themselves,  quite 
useless  now,  but  if  left  uncut 
they  will  rob  the  young 
canes  of  sunlight  and  air,  and 
it  is  highly  essential  that  they 
be  fully  exposed,  so  as  to 
become  well  matured  before 
the  leaves  fall  off.  A  com- 
mencement may  be  made  in 
the  work  of  cutting  out  the 
old  wood  from  Black  Currant 
bushes.  The  younger  wood 
left  will  greatly  benefit  by  the 
early  removal  of  the  old. 


than  the  common  variety,  and  its  blossoms  are 
larger,  of  a  creamy  colour  and  delioiously 
fragrant.  This  is  largely  grown  by  nurserymen 
and  is  known  by  the  botanical  name  of  L. 
Periclymenura  belgica.  The  Late  Dutch  (L.  P. 
serotinum)  is  equally  as  good  as  the  early  variety, 
and  evolves  reddish  flowers  in  the  late  summer 
and  early  autumn. 

The  climbing  species  revel  in  good,  rich  soil, 
and  the  evergreen  types  should  preferably  be 
planted  against  walls  and  fences  having  a  south 
or  west  aspect.  The  deciduous  types  appear  to 
do  well  in  any  aspect,  and  are  especially 
adapted  for  covering  porches,  arbours,  trellises, 
fences  and  walls.  Should  the  soil  of  any  garden 
be  poor  in  character,  add  good,  partially  decayed 
manure  quite  freely  to  enrich  it.  The  periods  of 
planting  are  during  October  or  November  and 
in    March  or  April.     I  prefer  to  plant  in  the 


Oreenhoitse    and    Frames.  — 


2. — CUTTINGS   PLANTED   IN   A   SHELTERED   CORNER   IN   THE 


Zonal  Pelargoniums  intended 
for  autumn  and  winter  flowering 
must  be  placed  in  a  cool,  airy  greenhouse  at  once. 
If  left  outside  any  longer,  the  plants  will  not  con- 
tinue to  progress  satisfactorily,  as  the  new  wood 
will  not  be  as  firm  as  it  ought  to  be.  In  the 
drier  atmosphere  and  warmer  temperature  of  the 
greenhouse  it  will.  Old  plants  of  Isolepis 
gracilis  may  now  be  divided  and  repotted  in  a 
light,  sandy  compost  and  then  placed  in  a  damp 
part  of  the  structure.  Repotting  now  is  better 
than  leaving  the  plants  until  next  spring,  as  so 
much  grass  would,  in  that  case,  turn  yellow. 
Plants  now  put  in  cold  frames  must  be  placed  on 
boards  instead  of  ashes.  In  all  frames  less 
moisture  will  be  needed,  and  all  watering  must 
be  done  in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  B. 


CULTURE  AND  PROPAGATION  OF  THE 

HONEYSUCKLE. 
Plants  of  a  climbing  and  twining  character  have 
a  special  value  in  all  gardens  where  real  beauty 
is  desired  ;  but  I  doubt  whether  there  is  any 
more  popular  subject  than  the  beautiful  Honey- 
suckle, that  yields  its  quaint  and  fascinating 
blossoms  in  the  greatest  freedom  when  planted 
in  a  proper  manner.  There  are  several  varieties 
of  the  European  Woodbine  or  Honeysuckle 
(Lonicera  Periclymenura),  and  there  are  a  number 
of  other  species,  each  of  which  has  a  charm 
peculiarly  its  own  ;  but  in  the  present  instance 
I  desire  to  call  attention  to  the  European  Wood- 
bine. Of  the  last-mentioned  there  is  the  Early 
Dutoh,  that  cornea  into  flower  earlier  in  the  year 


OUTDOOR    GARDEN. 

autumn  in  country  gardens  and  in  the  spring  in 
town  and  suburban  gardens.  As  soon  as  the 
Honeysuckles  are  planted,  shoots  of  the  previous 
season's  growth  should  be  shortened  back  to 
within  1  inch  or  2  inches  of  their  base  ;  this  will 
have  the  effect  of  causing  them  to  break  into 
vigorous  growth,  which  will  not,  however,  flower 
very  satisfactorily  in  the  succeeding  season  ;  but 
successive  seasons  will  reap  the  benefit  of  this 
somewhat  drastic  treatment. 

At  the  present,  however,  we  are  chiefly  con- 
cerned in  the  propagation  of  the  Honeysuckle, 
and  this  may  be  done  either  by  the  insertion  of 
cuttings  or  by  layering  shoots  that  are  making 
free  growth.  Cuttings  of  the  Honeysuckle 
should  be  made  from  the  firm  shoots  of  the 
present  year's  growth,  and  ought  to  be  about 
8  inches  in  length.  It  is  possible  to  make  several 
cuttings  from  one  long  growth,  but  I  prefer  to 
make  one  from  a  shoot  of  lesser  length.  In 
Fig.  1  the  kind  of  shoot  from  which  good  cuttings 
are  made  is  shown,  and  a  cutting  properly  pre- 
pared ready  for  insertion.  The  shoot  on  the  left 
of  the  picture  gives  a  good  indication  of  its  firm 
character,  and  to  prepare  it  the  berried  top  has 
been  severed,  the  shoot  cut  through  immediately 
below  a  joint  and  the  lower  leaves  removed, 
finally  representing  the  cutting  properly  pre- 
pared as  shown  on  the  right  of  the  illustration. 
When  the  roots  are  detached  with  a  "heel," 
they  are  less  likely  to  fail  during  the  rooting 
process,  and  for  this  reason  I  prefer  to  utilise 
them  to  ordinary  cuttings. 


Septkmbek  i,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


437 


3. — A    SUITABLE    SHOOT    OF    HONBYSCCKLE    FOR 
LAYERING. 

The  cuttings  should  be  inserted  during  the 
autumn  months.  Some  prefer  October  and 
November,  choosing  a  sheltered  corner  of  the 
garden  outdoors  for  this  operation.  I  prefer  a 
cold  frame  for  the  purpose.  The  cuttings  are 
inserted  4  inches  deep  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold 
frame,  observing  a  distance  between  the  cuttings 
of  some  4  inches,  more  or  less,  and  fully  this 
distance  should  be  observed  between  the  rows. 
Sprinkle  the  surface  soil  with  sand  before 
planting.  When  completed  the  bed  outdoors 
or  the  cold  frame  should  be  represented  as  shown 
in  Fig.  2. 

Layering  the  shoots  may  be  done  during  the 
summer  months  and  at  the  present  period.  This 
method  of  increasing  the  Honeysuckle  is  an 
extremely  simple  one.  Select  shoots  of  good 
length,  such  as  the  one  represented  in  Fig.  3. 
Shoots  of  a  shorter  character  cannot  be  dealt  with 
satisfactorily,  as  it  is  necessary  to  bend  down 
the  shoot  to  the  earth,  to  make  a  slight  incision 
in  it  just  below  a  joint,  and  then  to  bury  this 
portion  of  the  shoot  below  the  surface  soil,  at 
the  same  time  pegging  this  down  as  is  commonly 
done  when  layering  the  Carnation.  Fig.  * 
portrays  a  layered  shoot  when  the  operation  is 
completed. 

Shoots  layered  in  the  summer  may  be 
severed  in  the  succeeding  autumn ;  but  those 
doing  this  work  at  the  present  time  must  of 
necessity  sever  their  layered  shoots  much 
later.  D.  B.  C. 


POTTING     CINERARIAS     AND 
CALCEOLARIAS. 

The  final  potting  of  these  plants  must  not  be 
put  off  too  late  in  the  season.  The  Cinerarias 
especially  deteriorate  if  the  plants  are  allowed  to 
get  potbound,  flower-stems  show  prematurely, 
and  then  no  amount  of  care  will  prevent  poor 
flowers  developing  on  weakly  growths. 

The  grower  must  examine  the  roots  in  the  pots 
in  which  the  plants  are  now  growing,  and  if 
plenty  of  roots  are  found  forming  a  network  on 
the  ball  of  soil,  it  will  be  quite  time  to  do  the 
repotting.  The  first  dealt  with  should  be  the 
Cinerarias,  as  these  form  roots  more  rapidly  than 
the  Calceolarias. 

The  Soil. — This  must  be  good  and  quite 
porous ;  fibrous  loam  two  parts,  leaf-aoil  one 
part,  well-rotted  manure  and  sand  one  part. 
This  will  do  for  the  Cinerarias.  Bather  more 
loam  in  proportion  must  be  used  for  the 
Calceolarias.  If  the  plants  are  finally  placed 
in  5-inch  pots,  a  lot  of  feeding  will  be  re- 
quired later  on ;  if  placed  in  6-inoh  pots,  less 
feeding  will  be  necessary  ;  but  I  advise  culti- 
vators to  use  6-inch  and  7-inch  pots  for  both 
kinds  of  plants.  The  soil  must  not  be  pressed 
down  too  firmly.  Use  a  cool  frame  for  both  the 
Cinerarias  and  Calceolarias  ;  the  latter  will 
thrive  best  in  a  cold  frame  facing  the  north. 
Protection  from  frost  must  be  given,  and  it  will 
be  necessary  to  move  the  plants  to  a  greenhouse 
about  the  beginning  of  November.     I  like  to  see 


drops  of  dew  on  the  leaves  of  the  Calceolarias 
in  the  early  morning  in  autumn,  when  the 
lights  can  be  well  tilted  during  the  night ; 
and  later,  when  the  plants  are  necessarily  shut 
off  from  exposure  to  rain  or  dew,  I  like  to  see 
drops  of  moisture  on  the  leaves.  This  condition 
will  obtain  if  the  cultivator  keeps  the  plants  on 
a  bed  of  moist  ashes. 


INSECT  PESTS  IN  AUTUMN. 
During  the  latter  part  of  summer  and  the  early 
days  of  autumn  gardeners  have  to  contend  with 
the  attacks  of  many  insect  pests.  Dahlias, 
Chrysanthemums,  Nasturtiums,  Endive  and 
Lettuces  are  all  damaged,  more  or  less,  at  this 
season  by  the  enemy.  In  order  to  keep  the 
precious  plants  quite  safe  from  serious  attacks,  a 
great  amount  of  labour  is  necessary,  and  it  is 
very  important  that  that  labour  should  be  well 
directed. 

Earwigs  are,  perhaps,  the  most  difficult  to 
deal  with,  because  they  are  so  cunning. 
They  lodge  in  safe  places  during  the  day  and 
poach  in  the  night-time  ;  therefore  we  must  set 
traps  for  them.  The  old-fashioned  plan  of 
catching  them  in  hollow  Bean-stalks  is  still  one 
of  the  best.  The  stems  are  out  into  pieces  about 
1  foot  long  and  then  fixed  among  the  foliage  of 
the  plants  ;  I  here  refer  chiefly  to  that  of  Dahlias 
and  Chrysanthemums.  Very  early  each  morning 
the  stems  are  examined  and  the  insects  in  them 
are  shaken  into  a  pailful  of  water  and,  in  due 
course,  destroyed.  Where  canes  are  used  for 
stakes  the  earwigs  often  take  refuge  in  the 
hollows  near  the  top,  so  these  also  should  be 
examined.  Blooms  of  early  Chrysanthemums 
and  some  of  the  fading  Dahlia  flowers  may  be 
placed  in  the  branches  of  these  plants  ;  earwigs 
will  attack  them,  and  if  the  cultivator  will  care- 
fully examine  the  blooms  in  the  evening  about 
ten  o'clock,  he  will  probably  be  able  to  destroy 
many  insects. 

Caterpillars  eat  away  the  young,  unfolding 
petals  of  Chrysanthemums,  and  these  pests  must 
be  looked  for  at  night  and  under  the  leaves  in 
the  daytime.  Sometimes  one  monster  cater- 
pillar will  eat  away  a  portion  of  many  buds. 
Aphides  also  must  be  reckoned  with.  Do  not 
allow  any  to  get  established  in  the  young,  un- 
folding flowers,  else  they  will  soon  spoil  the 
latter.  Very  small  caterpillars  do  a  lot  of 
damage  to  Nasturtium  plants  at  this  season. 
Where  there  are  only  a  few  at  work,  hand- 
picking  may  prove  successful;  but  if  there  are 
many,  scatter  a  very  fine  shower  of  dust  dry 
powdered  lime  on  the  plants  and  immediately 
afterwards  syringe  or  gently  shake  them. 
It  much  lime  is  used  do  not  syringe,  else 
the  leaves  will  be  burned.  More  powder  may 
be  scattered  on  the  caterpillars  fallen  to  the 
ground.  Slugs  will  greatly  damage  Endive 
and  young  Lettuce  plants  now  unless  they  are 
prevented.  Dry  lime  judiciously  scattered 
under  the  plants  will  do  much  good  ;  but  hand- 
picking  must  be  the  rule  where  plants  are 
growing  in  frames.  Shamrock. 


4. — A  SHOOT  OF  HONBYSCCKLE  AFTER  LAYER- 
ING HAS  BEEN  COMPLETED. 


THE    TO>A^    GARDEN. 

Sweet  Peas. — The  plants  are  now  making  a  last 
effort  to  produce  flowers  and  seed-pods.  The 
latter  must  not  be  allowed  to  form,  and  to  this 
end  it  will  be  necessary  to  pick  off  every  faded 
flower  and  not  permit  seed-pods  to  swell.  The 
presence  of  the  latter  prevents  a  free  growth  of 
young  flower-buds,  and,  of  course,  that  means  few 
flowers  after  they  have  once  formed.  The  town 
gardener  is  generally  very  fond  of  his  Sweet  Peas 
and  likes  to  see  them  growing  on  the  plants  ; 
but  to  make  the  best  use  of  the  blossoms  they 
must  be  gathered  regularly  at  least  three  times 
each  week.  Daily  gatherings  would  be  better 
still,  as  the  more  the  flowers  are  cut,  or  the  more 
regularly  those  approaching  full  development 
are  gathered,  the  more  persistently  will  the 
plants  produce  others.  Many  of  our  leading 
exhibitors  cut  off  every  flower  showing  colour 
about  a  fortnight  before  the  date  of  some 
particular  show.  The  strength  of  the  plants 
then  goes  to  the  production  of  those  extra  fine 
blossoms  that  we  see  staged  at  our  large  exhibi- 
tions. Thus  the  town  gardener  must  follow 
such  an  example  if  he  would  enjoy  plenty  of 
Sweet  Pea  blossom  indoors  and  outside  as  well. 

Ferns.  — A  few  plants  in  pots  in  windows  and 
glass  porches  facing  north,  north-west  and  north- 
east, make  them  look  very  cosy  and  give  a 
furnished  appearance.  The  Maidenhair  and 
similar  Ferns  are  the  most  suitable  for  growing 
in  such  positions.  No  attempt  must  be  made  to 
repot  the  plants  at  the  present  time.  The  end 
of  next  February  will  be  a  more  suitable  date 
for  that  work,  but  plants  which  have  filled  the 
pots  with  a  mass  of  fibrous  roots  should  be 
assisted,  and  weak  applications  of  liquid  manure 
will  do  much  good.  Half  a  pint  of  the  liquid 
manure  to  three  pints  of  clear  water  will  con- 
stitute a  suitable  dose.  Twice  each  week  the 
manure-water  may  be  given,  and  always  after  a 
watering  with  clear  water.  A  pinch  of  some 
approved  concentrated  manure  will  also  prove 
very  beneficial.  Then  there  are  the  hardy 
varieties  growing  in  pots,  tubs  and  boxes  in  the 
open  air,  and  they  do  very  well  indeed  in  yards 
and  in  partially  shaded  places  ;  but  here,  again, 
we  must  strengthen  the  plants.  In  the  ease  of 
the  outdoor  Ferns  very  little  improvement  may 
be  seen  in  them  this  autumn,  but  the  stimulating 
food  applied  will  have  its  good  effect  on  the 
young  fronds  which  will  be  the  first  to  grow 
next  year.  We  must  produce  stronger,  not 
weaker,  fronds  every  year. 

Pinks. — Clumps  and  edgings  formed  with  these 
plants  should  now  be  examined.  In  many 
instances  the  older  specimens  have  become  rather 
ragged,  and  a  simple  trimming  of  the  outer  grass 
will  not  greatly  improve  their  appearance. 
When  once  these  plants  have  got  out  of  hand,  as 
it  were,  they  must  be  dealt  with  in  earnest. 
The  best  way  is  to  propagate  them  by  inserting 
cuttings — pipings  they  are  often  called — or  they 
may  be  improved  by  lifting,  dividing  and  re- 
planting. The  first  way  is  the  best,  but  the  time 
of  year  is  rather  too  far  advanced  for  an  amateur 
to  successfully  carry  out  the  work.  He  may, 
however,  be  quite  successful  in  lifting  the  old 
plants,  neatly  pulling  them  into  small  parts  and 
replanting  the  best  with  roots  attached.  The 
long-stemmed  portions  must  be  thrown  away. 
If  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  these  plants 
must  be  grown  in  the  same  position  again,  the 
soil  should  be  deeply  dug  and  well  enriched  with 
rotted  manure  ;  if  of  a  clayey  nature,  add  some 
gritty  soil  and  leaf-mould,  too.  Make  the 
ground  firm  by  treading  it  when  dry  if  it  be  of 
a  sandy  nature,  and  put  in  the  younger  parts  of 
the  old  plants  again.  While  this  work  is  being 
done  the  cultivator  must  take  care  not  to  allow 
the  plants  lifted  to  get  dry.  Place  them  in  the 
meantime  in  a  cool  position  and  water  them 
overhead.  After  they  are  replanted  give  more 
water,  and  then  frequently  if  the  weather  is  dry  ; 
daily  syringings  will  be  helpful,  too.        Avon. 


438 


THE    GARDEN. 


[September  4,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 

MIDLANDS. 

Floweb    Garden. 

SHRUBS  AND  TREES.— Although  too 
early  to  commence  planting,  it  is  none 
too  early  to  begin  to  make  prepara- 
tions, especially  where  planting  is  to 
be  done  on  a  large  scale,  so  that  there 
shall  be  no  delay  when  the  time  does 
arrive.  All  land  intended  for  shrubs  and  trees 
will  need  to  be  thoroughly  trenched,  and  manure 
added  if  required,  so  that  the  roots  may  have 
ample  room  to  travel  and  food  near  the  surface 
to  keep  the  plants  healthy  and  robust.  In  some 
situations,  where  the  soil  is  of  a  wet,  clayey 
nature,  draining  may  have  to  be  done.  When 
planting  shrubberies  there  should  be  a  plan  of 
all  the  more  choice  and  important  plants  it  is 
intended  to  leave  permanently,  filling  up  with 
less  valuable  shrubs,  to  be  removed  as  the  choice 
kinds  require  more  room  to  develop. 

Laions. — Keep  these  constantly  mown  to  give 
a  neat  appearance,  and  cut  the  grass  once  more 
in  the  wild  garden,  so  that  the  leaves  can  be 
more  easily  swept  or  raked  up  in  autumn.  All 
bulbs  intended  for  early  spring  flowering  should 
be  planted  as  soon  as  they  arrive.  See  that  the 
soil  is  in  gool  condition  and  the  bulbs  planted  at 
the  right  depth. 

Irises. — The  tuberous  varieties  are  numerous, 
and  among  them  are  some  very  beautiful 
colours ;  they  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  if  suit- 
ably arranged  make  a  splendid  effect.  Plant 
them  about  3  inches  deep  in  a  rather  rich,  light 
soil  and  they  will  give  no  further  trouble. 

Frhit  Garden. 

Hardy  Fruits. — Notes,  if  not  already  taken, 
should  be  made  of  all  useless  varieties  to  be 
removed  this  coming  planting-time  and  a  selec- 
tion made  of  different  sorts  which  it  is  intended 
to  grow  in  their  stead  ;  only  those  of  the  best 
and  those  that  will  give  a  lengthy  supply  should 
be  selected.  Those  intending  to  plant  will  do 
well  to  pay  a  visit  to  some  good  fruit  nursery 
during  the  time  the  fruits  are  in  season  and 
make  a  selection  of  suitable  varieties. 

Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Go  over  the  trees 
once  more  and  remove  any  new  soft  growth. 
Syringe  daily  in  fine  weather  those  trees  where 
the  fruits  are  not  too  advanced,  also  where  the 
fruits  have  been  gathered.  See  that  the  late 
sorts  do  not  suffer  from  dryness  at  the  roots, 
and  feed  well  if  the  crop  is  a  heavy  one. 
Remove  the  nets  from  all  fruit  trees  and  bushes 
as  fast  as  the  fruit  is  cleared,  and  if  not  required 
for  further  protection  tie  them  up  when  per- 
fectly dry  and  store  them  in  a  dry  place. 

Kitchen  Garden. 
Spring  Cabbages. — Plant  out  as  soon  as  they 
are  ready  a  good  breadth  of  Cabbage  plants  for 
spring  supplies.  Let  the  land  be  moderately 
firm  and  well  enriched  with  decayed  manure. 
EUam's  and  the  smaller  type  may  be  planted 
rather  closer  than  the  larger-hearted  varieties. 
Plant  firmly,  and  should  the  weather  prove  dry, 
give  them  a  good  soaking  with  water  to  settle 
the  soil  and  to  give  the  plants  a  good  start. 
Those  who  grow  a  few  Reds'  for  pickling  should 
plant  at  this  season. 

Onioiis. — These  will  soon  be  ready  for  pulling. 
Keep  the  varieties  separate  and  see  that  the 
bulbs  are  frequently  turned  over  till  they  become 
thoroughly  ripe  for  storing.  The  bulbs  winter 
well  loose  in  any  dry,  airy  shed,  or  they 
may  be  roped  and  hung  up  to  the  roofs.  Cut 
and  dry  all  kinds  of  herbs  required  in  winter, 
such  as  Mint,  Tarragon,  Sage,  Thyme,  Basil  and 
Marjoram.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrolham  Park  Oardens,  Bamei. 


FOR    THE   NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flowering  Plants. 
BiLBs. — Catalogues  being  now  at  hand,  orders 
should  be  despatched  at  once  and  the  bulbs  or 
roots  when  received  be  potted  or  boxed  to  ensure 
a  supply  of  flowers  when  the  present  abundance 
has  become  a  pleasant  memory  of  the  past. 

Soman  Hyacinths  are  perhaps  the  most  easily 
grown,  and,  withal,  the  most  satisfactory  of  any 
comprising  the  long  and  varied  list  of  winter- 
flowering  bulbous  plants.  Potted  at  once, 
it  is  possible  to  have  these  in  bloom  by  the 
middle  of  November  by  affording  them  a 
slight  warmth  at,  or  just  before,  this  date. 
The  size  of  pots  used  is  unimportant,  but 
those  5  inches  or  6  inches  in  diameter  are  very 
suitable  for  placing  in  vases  or  window-boxes. 
Crock  these  in  the  usual  way  and  three  parts 
fill  them  with  good  sandy  soil.  Make  firm, 
and  upon  this  surface  place  the  bulbs  nearly 
close  if  decorative  specimens  are  required  ;  but 
if  for  cutting  only,  more  room  may  be  given  or 
shallow  boxes  used  instead  of  pots,  when  finer 
spikes  of  blooms  will  probably  be  attained.  Fill 
the  spaces  between  the  bulbs  with  soil,  leaving 
the  crowns  visible  and  sufScient  depth  inside  the 
rims  of  the  pots  to  facilitate  watering.  Place 
the  pots  when  finished  upon  a  level  surface  out 
of  doors  and  cover  to  the  depth  of  a  few  inches 
with  coal  -  ashes,  which  will  prevent  rapid 
evaporation  and,  what  is  of  more  importance, 
will  keep  the  bulbs  in  place  as  roots  form  and 
until  these  get  a  hold  of  the  soil. 

Tulips. — The  Due  Van  Thol  section,  in  several 
distinct  colours,  is  best  for  early  use,  and  similar 
treatment  to  that  described  for  Hyacinths  will 
answer  equally  well  for  these,  except  that  the  bulbs 
may  be  inserted  rather  more  deeply  in  the  soil. 

Lachenalias. — These  are  excellent  subjects  for 
hanging  baskets  as  well  as  for  pot  plants.  For  the 
former  line  the  interior  with  moss  to  retain  the 
soil,  placing  the  bulbs  all  around,  tier  above  tier, 
as  the  latter  is  filled  in.  From  six  to  twelve 
bulbs  are  sufiBcient  for  6-inch  pots,  and  a  compost 
of  loam,  leaf-mould  and  dry  cow-manure  is  suit- 
able. L.  pendula,  L.  tricolor  and  L.  Nelsonii 
are  the  best  of  this  somewhat  small  genus. 

Flower  Garden. 

Propagating.  — The  time  is  near  at  hand  when 
this  must  again  be  undertaken,  though  one  is 
often  reluctant  to  disturb  the  bedding  arrange- 
ment when  at  its  best  for  the  purpose  :  but  if 
carefully  cairied  out  and  only  such  shoots  as 
show  an  undue  lead  are  first  taken,  an  improve- 
ment rather  than  a  defect  may  ensue. 

Geranium-^. — These  require  first  attention, 
and,  being  full-grown  at  present,  no  difficulty 
should  be  experienced  in  getting  the  necessary 
number  of  cuttings.  Those  that  have  attained  a 
certain  amount  of  solidity  are  best,  as  if  very 
sappy,  damping  rather  than  the  emission  of  roots 
is  likely  to  follow.  Short-jointed  shoots  are 
preferable,  so  that  two  joints  may  be  inserted  in 
the  soil,  which  should  be  of  a  friable  nature,  the 
better  to  counteract  the  effects  of  damp  in 
winter.  Pots,  boxes  or  a  bed  prepared  under 
glass  all  answer.  In  the  latter  case  the  plants 
would  be  potted  when  well  rooted. 

Rock  and  Alpine  Garden. 

As  many  plants  produce  seed  freely,  and  for 
some  reason  this  germinates  more  kindly  where 
it  falls  around  the  parent  plants  than  under  more 
artificial  conditions,  a  great  number  of  plantlets 
may  often  be  obtained  without  trouble.  These  if 
carefully  raised  and  transplanted  to  a  prepared 
bed,  or  some  of  the  more  fastidious  in  this 
respect  to  pots  or  boxes,  and  afforded  shade  and 
close  attention  in  regard  to  moisture  for  a  few 
days,  would  in  all  probability  become  well 
established  before  winter  and  make  excellent 
material  for  permanent  planting  in  due  course. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacharn. ) 

Oalloway  Howe,  Oarliatan,  Wigtownthire. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Ansvveps.— TA^  Editor  intend* 
to  make  The  Garden  help/til  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  ivith  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
** Ans^ioers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  cominunica- 
tions  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  Lond&n, 
W.  C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  he  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  ea^h  should 
be  on  a  sepa/rate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Exhibiting:  hardy  hepbaoeoua 
fiOwePS  (A.  5".).— The  Lobelia  is  generally 
admissible,  and  we  should  not  disqualify  it. 
The  Montbretia  and  Lilium  may  both  be  shown 
in  a  collection  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  pro- 
vided bulbous-rooted  sorts  are  not  excluded  by 
schedule  regulations  on  the  one  hand,  and  pro- 
vided also  that  you  exhibit  of  the  latter  those 
species  or  varieties  that  are  reliably  hardy 
generally.  You  do  not  say  what  species  or 
varieties  you  contemplate  showing,  and  if  you 
exhibit  greenhouse-grown  examples  of  certain 
plants,  the  judges  may  decide  that  you  are  not 
acting  within  the  spirit,  even  though  you  may 
be  acting  within  the  letter,  of  the  schedule. 
Should  this  occur,  and  should  another  exhibitor 
who  is  running  you  very  close  conform  to  both 
the  letter  and  the  spirit  of  the  schedule,  the 
judges  may  decide  against  you. 

Chplstmas  Roses  (M.  ilurraij  Wilson).  —  The 
Clirlstmas  Rose  (Helleborus  niger)  is  a  hardy  perennial 
herb  of  about  1  foot  high,  and  is  not  a  bulbous-rooted 
subject  at  all.  The  best  time  for  planting  this  is 
in  Septeral.)er,  and  the  soil  should  be  deeply  dug  and,  if 
wet  or  ill-drained,  old  mortar  rubbish  or  road  sweepings 
should  be  added  freely.  Leaf-mould  and  old  manure 
should  be  freely  incorporated  with  the  soil.  The  plants 
are  very  deep-rooting,  and  a  depth  of  not  less  than  2i  feet 
of  soil  should  be  prepared  for  them.  It  would  be  better  to 
plant  a  bed  or  group,  so  that  in  winter  a  frame-light  could 
be  placed  over  them  to  keep  the  flowers  pure  and  clean. 
These  plants  require  time  to  become  established,  and  any 
flowers  that  appeared  this  year  would  not  be  of  a  repre- 
sentative character.  Plants  may  be  obtained  from  any  of 
the  nurserymen  who  make  a  speciality  of  hardy  plants. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Pruning  a  Holly  hedgre  (H.  G.  R.).— 

You  may  cut  your  Holly  hedge  at  once  if 
rough,  but  if  of  moderately  close  growth  it  can 
be  left  until  spring.  There  is  really  very  little  to 
choose  between  the  times,  except  that  if  cut  now 
mutilated  leaves  will  be  seen  until  new  ones  appear 
next  year,  while  if  cut  in  April  new  leaves  soon 
hide  the  damaged  ones.  If  the  bottom  of  your 
hedge  is  thin,  it  will  be  as  well  to  plant  a  few  small 
plants  between  the  existing  ones  at  once.  It  is 
sometimes  a  difficult  matter  te  get  the  bottom  of 
a  Holly  hedge  to  thicken  up  well,  but  the  intro- 
duction of  a  few  small,  bushy  plants  usually 
suffices. 

Elm  shoots  tor  inspection  ( W.  O. ). 

There  is  nothing  to  be  seen  on  the  Elm 
branches  you  send  to  account  for  the  leaves 
falling.  The  probability  is  that  there  is  some- 
thing wrong  with  some  other  parts  of  the  trees, 
roots  or  trunk.  Excessive  flowering  and  fruiting 
sometimes  affects  the  foliage.  You  may  have 
had  a  bad  attack  of  insects,  either  thrips  or  red 
spider ;  none  could  be  found  on  the  leaves,  but 
marks  were  visible  which  might  have  been 
caused  by  insects,  sunburn  or  premature  decay 
through  being  out.  It  would  be  advisable  to 
carefully  examine  the  trunks  and  collars  at  the 
ground  line  and  a  few  inches  below  to  see 
whether  any  fungoid  agency  is  at  work. 


September  4,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


439 


ApauGaT^ias  dying"  (Charles  Wriakt).— It  is 
impnaflible  to  say  what  has  canned  the  branche<i  of  your 
AraHcari-^s  to  die  withoiit  e^aminmc;  the  trees.  Branches 
frfqueiitly  die  out  in  a  natural  raannor,  and  this  may  he 
the  n^se.  On  the  other  hand,  aomethine  m^y  be  wrontr 
with  the  roots  or  the  lowev  nart  of  the  stem  between  th^ 
trunk  and  roots.  The  dead  branches  ousrht  to  he  cut  out 
and  the  wounds  tarred  over  ;  it  is,  however,  impossible  to 
advise  further  treatment  without  knowing  more  of  the 
case. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 
LiUaes  to  flower    at   Christmaei 

(W.  A.)- — Lilacs  to  flower  at  Christmas  and 
onwards  are  not  grown  under  glass,  it  being  very 
necessary  to  grow  them  out  of  doors  under  the 
influence  of  air  and  sunshine,  in  order  to  induce 
them  to  form  plenty  of  flower-buds.  The  Lilac 
met  with  at  Christmas  is  generally  the  produo" 
of  retarded  plants — that  is  to  say,  hushes  well 
set  with  flnwer-buda,  which  in  their  normal 
state  out  of  doors  would  have  developed  durine 
the  previous  spring  ;  hut  they  have  been  kept  in 
a  frozen  state  in  refrigerators,  and  are  con- 
sequently ready  to  start  away  at  once  in  a  more 
genial  temperature.  To  flower  from  the  end  of 
January  onwards,  neat  little  bushes  grown 
especially  for  the  purpose  can  be  purchased  in 
the  autumn.  They  are  for  the  moot  part  grown 
in  pots  plunged  out  of  doors.  This  ensures  a 
compact  mass  of  roots  and  prevents  too  vigorous 
a  growth.  With  such  plants  all  that  is  neces- 
sary is  to  pot  and  take  them  into  the  foroine- 
houae  a  month  or  so  before  they  are  required 
to  be  in  bloom.  If  you  purpose  growing 
Lilacs  yourself,  the  great  point  is  to  see  that 
they  are  in  a  good,  open  situation,  are  kept 
quite  clear  of  suckers,  while  they  must  not  be 
allowed  to  become  dry.  The  most  popular  kinds 
for  forcing  are  Marie  Lesraye,  single  white ; 
Charles  X.,  single  lilac  ;  Mme.  Casirair-Perier, 
creamy  white,  double  ;  Mme.  Lemoine,  white, 
double  ;  and  the  smaller-growing  Persian  Lilac. 

Begontas  attacked  by  mite  (M.  L  ).— Dip  the 

nlants  at  frequent  intervals  in  a  w»sh  made  hy  taking  a 
handful  of  soft  noap  and  kneadincr  into  it  some  flowers  of 
siilnhnr,  diasolving  the  mixture  in  one  and  a-half  gallons 
of  water.  Freqnent  dipping  is  necessary,  as  this  wash  does 
not  affect  the  eggs,  and  the  young  should  he  killed  as  they 
are  hatched  out. 

Heating  a  ^rreenhouse  (O.  E.  >f )— For  a 
house  of  the  dimensions  given  and  sheltered  as  vours  is. 
a  flow  and  return  of  4-inch  piping  carried  along  the  front 
and  for  6  feet  at  the  end  will  he  sufBcient  to  keep  up  a 
greenhouse  temperature  during  the  winter.  There  should 
he  no  difficulty  in  maintaining  a  minimum  temperature  of 
45°,  which  will  he  sufficient  for  greenhouse  plants  in 
general. 

ROSE    GARDEN. 
Some    grood    cplmaon    Roses   {A. 

Bailey). — The  varieties  vou  name  are  all  very 
good  of  their  colour  and  hold  up  their  blooms 
fairly  well.  We  think,  perhaps,  General  Baron 
Berge  might  be  replaced,  as  it  is  so  much  addicted 
to  mildew.  You  should  certainly  plant  Hugh 
Dickson.  It  is  a  strong  grower,  but  a  really 
magnificent  Rose  and  the  beat  crimson  we  have. 
A  few  other  grand  crimsons  and  scarlets  that 
have  erect  stems  are  Liberty,  Richmond,  General 
Maoarthur,  Duke  of  Wellington,  Earl  of  Pem- 
broke, Duke  of  Connaught,  Louis  van  Houtte, 
Fisher  Holmes,  Duchess  of  Bedford,  Comman- 
dant Felix  Faure,  Alfred  K.  Williams,  Charles 
Lefebvre  and  Laurent  Carle.  The  latter  is  a 
grand  Rose,  not  exactly  crimson,  but  a  very 
brilliant  rose  crimson  and  of  fine  form. 

Rose  DoT>othy  Perkins  pcfuslng:  to  bloom 

(P  W  Jlf.).— Wehave  never  experienced  an  instance  of  the 
kind  you  name.  Even  hushes  planted  in  April  this  year 
have  flowered  beautifully.  Are  you  sure  the  Rose  is 
Dorothy  Perkins  ?  It  sounds  uncommonly  as  though  you 
have  a  plant  of  Aglaia  instead  of  the  true  Dorothy,  as  this 
Rose  is  very  tardy  is  blooming.  If  yon  have  any  doubt, 
send  us  a  piece  of  growth  and  we  will  tell  you  whether  it 
is  so  or  not. 

Paths  fop  small  Rose  g'apden  (.Hybrid  Tea). 
First  have  the  paths  pegged  out ;  then  remove  turf  and 
soil  to  a  depth  of  about  4  inches.  A  layer  of  chalk,  gravel 
or  clinkers  about  3  inches  deep  would  make  a  good  base 
and  assist  drainage.  The  cost  of  these  would  vary,  but 
you  could  soon  ascertain  how  far  a  load  would  reach. 
Have  the  material  well  rolled  ;  then  procure  bricks  known 
as  "hards."    Lay  these  flat  and  fill  in  the  interstices  with 


■sand  or  cement.  About  four  bricks  would  go  to  the 
square  foot  and  would  cost  about  2d.,  exclusive  of  sand  or 
cemPnt. 

Stocks  fop  vaplous  Roses  'WnlmUy—GnttfTied 
Keller  and  the  Lvon  Rose  do  well  on  seedling  Briar,  hut  we 
prefer  Briar  cutting.  Tauflpudschon  also  grows  hpst  on 
either  of  these  stocks :  but  the  Manetti  is  best  for  Hiawatha 
and  Dorothy  Perkins.  Vou  should  endeavour  to  put  in 
some  cuttings  of  the  fast  three  sorts,  as  thev  are  far  mor^ 
satisfsctory  than  budded  plants.  As  to  removing  bulbs, 
something  depends  upon  what  they  are.  We  should 
advise  vou  to  heel  them  in  some  sandv  compost,  or,  better 
still,  plant  them  in  some  boxes  which  could  be  removed 
intact. 


MISCELT.ANEOUS. 

Use  of  ammonia  water  (./.  ITntt).— Plants  are 
unable  to  make  use  of  ammonia  unless  it  is  combined  with 
,an  acid,  as  in  sulphate  of  ammonia.  At  times  animoniacal 
furaPS  even  prove  detrimental  to  plant-life.  It  would, 
therefOT-e,  be  verv  inadvisable  to  use  even  verv  dilute 
ammonia  liquor  from  the  gas-works  in  watering  plants. 

Snreet  Peas  in  a  cold  grpecnhouse  (M.  TT\ 
Varieties  that  would  suit  you  as  regards  colour  are  Earl 
Snencer.  Kitty  Clive,  Edrom  Beautv,  Heurv  Eckford  and 
Helen  Lewis  ;  but  you  will  have  to  shade  to  keen  tbe 
colour.  .St  aeorge  is  doubtful,  because  it  is  a  poor  grower 
and  a  shv  binoiner  in  many  places.  There  is  nothing  quite 
like  Ladv  Grizel  Hamilton,  but  vou  ought  to  try  Master- 
piece    You  omitted  to  send  your  address. 

Wlakingr  a  lawn  '.T.  ff ).— Tou  would  do  best  by 
turfing  vour  tennis  lawn  if  vou  wish  to  use  it  next  spring, 
for  if  vou  sow  grass  seeds  in  Sentember  the  grass  will  not 
"ret  strong  enough  for  a  lot  of  running  about  on  bv  spring 
If  the  ground  could  be  left  for  a  year  you  could  sow  it 
with  advantage  ;  but  as  you  wish  to  use  it  so  earlv  yon 
had  bettor  provide  good  turf.  The  earlier  yon  get  it  down 
the  better,  provid'ng  you  are  in  a  position  to  keep  it  well 
watered  in  case  of  a  spell  of  dry  weather  setting  in.  There 
in  reallv  no  reason  why  you  should  wait  until  September  if 
the  ground  is  vacant. 

Obtaining'  emplovment  at  Kew  (M.  R.).—To 
obtain  employment  at  Kew  men  must  be  between  the 
ages  of  ninetpen  and  twenty-fonr,  and  must  have  had  at 
least  four  vears'  experience  in  good  gardens.  The  engage- 
ment terminates  at  the  end  of  two  years,  but  a  man  can 
leave  earlier  if  he  wishes.  The  wages  are  one  guinea  per 
week,  with  extra  pay  for  Sundav  dntv.  Courses  of  lectures 
are  given  on  five  different  suh|pcts,  the  courses  being 
spread  over  the  two  years.  It  is  necessary  that  a  man 
should  have  had  at  least  a  good  elementary  school  educa- 
tion, and  if  he  has  had  the  advantage  of  higher  education 
so  much  the  better.  With  all,  he  must  be  a  good  work- 
man and  have  laid  the  foundation  towards  making  a  good 
gardener.  Application  forms,  with  tnll  particulars  of 
emplovment,  can  be  obtained  from  the  curator,  Royal 
(hardens.  Kew.  Forparticulars  of  emplovment  in  Hampton 
Court  Gardens,  apply  to  the  superintendent. 

Renovating  a  lavrn  (A.  ./.I.— There  is  a  book  on 
lawns  issued  hv  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  who  are  great 
authorities  on  this  subject,  which  may  he  obtained  from 
\res8rs.  Sutton,  price  Is.  2d.,  post  free.  With  respect  to 
the  remaking  of  your  lawn,  you  will  do  well  to  dress 
it  heavilv  with  fresh-slaked  lime  and  fresh  soot  at  once. 
This  will  soon  wash  in  and  help  to  kill  much  of  the  moss. 
A  couple  of  weeks  later  tear  out  as  much  of  the  moss  as 
you  can  with  a  sharp-toothed  iron  rake  and  remove  it. 
This  will  give  the  grass  a  chance  to  improve  a  little  this 
season.  But  if  you  have  the  whole  lawn  forked  over,  d» 
so  6  Inches  deep,  and  throw  out.  dry  and  burn  all  the  grass 
and  roots.  Then  give  the  surface  a  dressing  of  4oz.  per 
"qnare  yard  of  superphosphate  of  lime  and  kainit,  very 
finely  crushed,  in  equal  quantities,  and  loz.  of  sulphate  of 
ammonia.  Well  scratch  this  in  with  a  steel  fork ;  then, 
having  well  levelled  the  soil  and  made  it  firm,  sow  grass 
seeds.  Do  this  early  in  October.  The  seedsman  will  tell 
you  as  to  quantities. 

Names  of  fpMit.— Subscriber.— a.  Waltham  Abbey 
Seedling :  b,  Yorkshire  Beautv  ;  c,  Lady  Sudeley ;  rf,  Stam- 
ford Pippin.  The  other  varieties  you  mention  we  do  not 
know;  the  names  must  be  local. 

Names  of  rylanta.— Regular  Sub.Kriber.—Lychuia 
baageana.  The  Pea  i«  a  form  of  P.  sativum  with  uncom- 
mon Kurple  pods. G  ff.— The  Carnations  are  evidently 

seedlings,  either  taken  direct  from  the  seedling  plants  or 
from  layers  propagated  from  seedlings.  There  is  no 
disease  on  the  leaves  ;  it   is  merely  caused  bv  sudden 

climatic  changes. E.  L.— Buddleia  variabilis  magniflca. 

B7ia,i;aM.— Anthemis  tinctoria. C.  J.  E.— Rose  Perle 

des  Jardins.     The  other  plant  was  verv  shrivelled,  but 

looked  like  Tiarella  cordifolia. E.   P.  iV.   Bowes.— 

1.  Lonicera   involucrata;    2,    Snirsea   japonica   Anthonv 

Waterer;  3,  Olearia  Haastii ;  4,  Sniraea  canescens. S.  S. 

— 1,  Not  recognised  ;  2.  Pride  of  Penshurst :  3,  Duchess  of 
Fife ;  4,  Mrs.  FMght ;  6,  Rabv  Castle  ;  6.  a  form  of  the  Old 

Clove ;  7,  Asphodel ;  8,  Isinglass  ;  9.  Old  Clove. B.  S.— 

1,  Pelargonium  peltatum  variety;  2,  Begonia  metallica ;  3, 
cannot  name  without  flowers  :  4,  Cassia  corymbosa ;  5, 
Stachya  lanata.    A  true  hvbrid  is  the  result  of  crossing 

two  species,  not  varieties. J.   C.   K.—l,  Cimicifuga 

racemosa;  2,  Rodgersianodophvlla;  3.  Epilobiumhirsutum. 

Reader,  Wnt/oriJ.— 1.  Ailanthus  elandnlosus  :  2,  Spiriea 

Aitch'soni :  3,  Deutzia  crenata ;  4,  Cercis  Siliquastrum 
(Judas  Tree).    The  Apple  was  not  mature  enough  to  name  ; 

send   again   later. A..  G.   IT.— The  common  Trumpet 

Flower  (Tecoma  radicans),  also  known  as  Bignonia 
radicans.  —  G.  J.  Padbury. — Heuchera  sanguiaea  and 
Asparagus  Sprengeri.  The  latter  can  be  increased  by 
divisien  In  spring. V.  de  r.— Ascepias  cornnta.1 


SOCIETIES. 


READING  HORTICITI^TURAL  SOCIETY. 
The  annual  exhibition  arranged  in  connexion  with  the 
above  societv  was  held  in  the  Porbnrv  Gardens.  Reading, 
on  the  2Eitb  ult..  when  a  splpndid  dianlav  of  flowers,  fruits 
and  vegetables  was  made.  Unfortunately,  the  weather  was 
none  too  good,  but  a  large  number  of  visitors  attended. 

Open  to  All. 

For  a  group  of  plants  arraufed  for  effect  in  a  given 
space,  two  competitors  entered,  first  honours  going  to 
Lady  Cooke,  Bast  Thorpe,  Reading  (gardener,  Mr.  J. 
Wynn\  who  was  the  flrst-prize  winner  last  year.  This  was 
a  snlendid  oblong  group,  and  contained,  among  other 
subjects,  well-grown  Liliumn,  Cannas,  Gloxinias,  Cam- 
panula pyram'dalis  and  Streptocarpus.  Second  prize  fell 
to  Mrs.  Blaid  Garland.  Lower  Redlands,  R»ading  'gar- 
dener, Mr.  Wilson).  This  g'onp,  although  it  contained 
some  good  material,  lacked  the  brightness  and  finish  of 
the  flrst-prize  exhib't.  We  noticed  several  good  Coleus 
and  Begonias  among  the  pisnts  used. 

In  the  c1*>ss  for  s'x  Fuchsias,  dist'nct.  first  prize  was 
won  by.T.  Friedlander.  Esq.,  Whiteknights  Park.  Reading 
(gardener,  Mr.  T.  Brightl.  The  niants  shown  here  were 
remarkable  nyramids  some  0  feet  or  10  feet  high  and  well 
covered  with  flowers  from  ton  to  bottom.  .Second  honours 
went  to  Miss  K.  RatelifFe.  Westfle'd.  Reading  (gardener, 
Mr.  H.  BookerV  The  plants  here  were  smiller  hut  well- 
flowered  specimens.  Third  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  J. 
P.ead,  Reading. 

For  six  double-flowered  Zonal  Pelargoniums  comnetition 
was  ffoor],  first  pr'ze  bemg  won  bv  Lady  Cooke  with 
snlendidlv  flowered  snecimens  ;  S.  B  .Toel,  Esq.,  Maiden 
Erleigh.  Reading  (gardener,  Mr.  F.  .Johnson),  was  a  good 
second  ;  and  third  prize  went  to  M'ss  K.  Ratcliffe. 

In  a  similar  class  for  tuberous  Be"onias  there  were  only 
two  entries  the  flrst  and  second  prizes  being  won  respec- 
tively by  W.  Pole  Routh.  Esq  .  O'kfleld,  Reading  rgar- 
dener.  Mr.  H.  House),  and  Miss  0  Russell,  Erleigh  Road, 
Rsnding  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Gregory),  each  exhibitor 
staging  well-flowered  plants. 

For  twenty-four  Dihlias,  show  or  fancy,  distinct,  the-e 
were  three  entries,  first  nr'ze  being  won  bv  Mr.  G. 
Humphries.  Langlev  Nurseries.  Chippenham,  with  a  verv 
fine  lot  of  blooms  ;  Miss  P.  McKenzie  A.  Ocock,  Standard 
and  .Tohn  Forbes  were  four  that  were  extra  good.  Mr.  .T. 
Walker,  S,  High  Street,  Thame,  was  a  close  second,  his 
fiowers  being  rather  smaller  than  those  of  the  first-prize 
exhibit. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  blooms  there  were  three 
entries,  Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons.  Crawley,  being  olaced 
first,  their  blooms  of  Tasmania,  A.  Rawlings  and  Warrior 
being  very  good  indeed.  B.  C.  Shenberd,  Esq..  Knowie 
Hall,  Bridgwater  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  Stuckey),  was  placed 
second. 

For  twelve  bunches  of  single  Dahlias,  the  first  and 
second  prizes  were  won  respectively  bv  Messrs.  .7.  Cheal 
and  Sons  and  Mr.  J.  Walker.  High  Street.  Thame,  these 
being  the  only  competitors.  Both  staged  blooms  of  superb 
quality. 

Four  competitors  entered  the  class  for  thirtv-six  Cactus 
Dahlias,  twelve  varieties,  three  blooms  of  esch,  flrst 
honours,  including  the  silver  medal,  being  secured  by  Mr. 
G.  Humphries,  Chipnenham,  with  a  superb  lot  of  well- 
developed  blooms.  Dr.  G.  G.  Grev,  Helium  and  .T.  H. 
.Tackson  were  sorts  that  called  for  special  mention. 
■Second  and  third  prizes  were  won  respectively  by  Messrs. 
.1.  Chea!  and  Sons  and  Mr.  J.  Walker. 

For  twelve  hunches  of  Pompon  Dahlias,  distinct,  ten 
blooms  of  each.  Messrs.  .1.  Cheal  and  Sons  were  first 
among  three  exhibitors,  their  flowers,  especially  the 
varieties  Whisper  and  Nerisaa.  being  of  very  high  quality 
indeed.  Mr.  J.  Walker  and  Mr.  G.  Humphries  followed  in 
the  order  named. 

In  the  class  for  twelve  Roses,  distinct,  there  were  five 
entries,  J.  B.  Fortescue,  Esq.,  Dropmore,  Maidenhead 
(gardener,  Mr.  C.  Page),  being  first  with  a  good  dozen, 
Hugh  Dickson  and  Mons.  Joseph  Hill  being  the  two  best. 
Mr.  G.  Humphries,  Clhipnenham,  was  second  with  mostlv 
Hybrid  Perpetual  varieties.  Third  prize  went  to  Mr.  T. 
Rio-g,  Caversham. 

For  twelve  Gladioli,  single  spikes,  there  were  only  two 
entries,  flrst  and  second  prizes  being  won  resnectivelv  by 
Mr.  Fred  Eames,  Frome,  and  Mr.  J.  Walker,  Thame,  both 
staging  very  clean  flowers. 

The  Rev.  C.  Turner,  Woburn  Park,  Weybrldge  (gardener, 
Mr.  A.  Basill),  was  first  for  nine  hunches  of  Sweet  Peas, 
distinct,  staging  good  blooms  of  Helen  Lewis,  Frank 
Dolby  and  Mrs.  Henry  Bell. 

For  twelve  vases  of  cut  flowers,  distinct,  flrst  honours 
were  won  by  J.  B.  Fortescue,  Esq.,  Droomore,  Maiden- 
head (gardener,  Mr.  Charles  Pagel,  who  had  splendid 
Phloxes,  Roses,  Gladioli  and  Buddleias.  S.  B.  Joel,  Esq., 
Maiden  Erleigh,  Reading  (gardener,  Mr.  F.  .Tohnson),  was 
second,  and  Mr.  G.  Humphries,  Chippenham,  third. 

Trade  Excluded. 

For  four  stove  or  greenhouse  plants  flrst  prize  was  won 
hvG.  J.  Pleveus,  Esq.,  Woolton  Hill,  Newbury  (gardener, 
Mr.  F.  Lock),  a  splendid  specimen  of  C'eradendron 
balfourianum  being  included  in  this  exhibit.  Sscond 
prize  wont  to  Mrs.  Bland  Garland.  Reading  (gardener, 
Mr.  H.  Wilson).  In  the  classes  for  Ferns  and  Fuchsias  in 
th'S  section  the  exhibits  were  not  of  a  very  high  order. 

For  twelve  Cactus  Dahlias,  distinct,  there  were  three 
entries,  flrst  prize  being  well  won  by  L.  McKenna,  E^q.. 
Twyford  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  Backshall).  for  soms  very  good 
flowers  Indeed.  Second  prize  went  to  J.  N.  StiUwell,  Esq.. 
Yateley.  Camberley  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  H.  Chapman),  and 
Mr.  F.  Hall,  CShiddesden,  Basingstoke,  was  third. 


440 


THE     GARDEN. 


[Septembbr  4,  1909 


In  a  class  for  twenty-seven  Cactus  Dahlias  there  were 
three  entries,  L.  Mf  Kenna,  E^q  ,  heinu  aeain  the  champion 
with  a  grand  lot  of  flowers.  -T.  P.  Stillwell,  Esq.,  wassecond 
and  H.  W.  Diinloo,  E?q  ,  Earley,  third.  The  first-prize 
collection  here  was  Viy  far  the  best. 

For  six  Cactus  Dahlia?  the  prizes  were  won  by  L. 
McKenna,  Esq.,  Mr.  F.  Hall  and  J.  P.  Stillwell,  Esq.,  in 
the  order  named. 

Four  exhibitors  entered  the  class  for  six  bunches  of  single 
Dahlias,  first  honours  Koing  to  J.  N.  Stillwell,  Esq.,  for  a 
very  pretty  lot ;  Mr.  C.  Walker  was  second  with  smaller 
blooms.  J.  N.  Stillwell,  Esq.,  was  also  first  in  a  similar 
class  for  Pompons. 

The  competition  for  six  vases  of  Sweet  Peas,  distinct, 
was  very  good  indeed,  G.  W.  Tyser,  Esq.,  Oakfleld, 
Mortimer  (gardener,  Mr.  S.  W.  Sherlock),  being  first  with 
very  fresh  flowers,  Evelyn  Hemus  being  particularly^good. 
Second  and  third  prizes  were  won  respectively  by  Mr.^E.  D. 
Marshall,  Reading,  and  G.  J.  Plevens,  Esq.,  Woolton;iHill, 
Newbury. 

The  first  of  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Son's  prizes,  offered  for 
nine  bunches  of  Sweet  Peas,  was  won  by  Mr.  E.  Marshall, 
Reading,  H.  M.  Robertson,  Esq.,  Farnham,  being  second. 
The  Sweet  Peas  as  a  whole  were  not  good. 

The  challenge  cud,  medal  and  cash  prize  offered  for  a 
group  of  plants  in  Class  33,  open  to  subscribers  where  not 
more  than  two  gardeners  are  emnloyed,  was  won  by  W. 
Pole  Rout-h,  Esq.,  Oakfleld,  Reading  (gardener,  Mr.  H. 
HnuseV  This  was  an  excellent  groun  and  contained  some 
good  specimens  of  Lilium  auratum,  Gloxinias  and  Humeas. 
Miss  K.  Ratcliffe  was  the  only  other  competitor  in  this 
class,  being  awarded  second  prize  for  a  moderately  good 
group. 

Fruit  and  Vegetables. —Open  to  All. 

For  six  dishes  of  fruit,  distinct  kinds,  excspt  Grapes, 
there  were  only  two  entries,  first  prize  being  well  won  by 
Colonel  H.  Walnole.  Heckfleld  Place.  Winchfleld,  Hants 
(gardener,  Mr.  J.  Gardner).  The  Grapes,  Peaches  and 
Apricots  shown  here  were  very  good  indeed,  the  black 
Grapps  being  well  finished.  G  W.  Tyser,  Esq.,  Oakfield, 
Mortimer  (gardener,  Mr.  S.  W.  Sherlock),  was  second,  thia 
exhibit  being  a  long  way  behind  the  first. 

For  three  bunches  of  Black  Hamburgh  Grapes  there 
were  seven  entries,  fl'-st  prize  being  awarded  to  G.  W. 
Tyser,  Esq.,  whose  bunches  were  of  good  size,  but  the 
berries  were  small  owing  to  their  being  left  too  crowded. 
Second  p-ize  went  to  W.  H.  Myers,  Esq.,  Swanmore 
House,  Bishop's  Waltbam  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  Ellwood>, 
these  being  large  bunches  of  good-sized  berries,  but  not 
quite  suflSciently  well  coloured.  J.  Friedlander,  Esq., 
Reading  (gardener,  Mr.  F.  Bright),  was  third. 

In  a  similar  class  for  any  other  black  variety  five  com- 
pf^titors  entered,  first  prize  being  won  by  Colonel  H. 
WalpoJe,  Winchfleld,  with  splendidly  finished  bunches  of 
Cooner's  Black;  G.  W.  Tyser,  Esq.,  was  second;  and 
W.  H.  Mvers.  Esq.,  third. 

Four  exhibits  were  staged  in  a  similar  class  for  any 
white  variety.  W.  H.  Myers,  Eiq.,  being  first  with 
moderatelv  well-flnished  bunches  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria. 
Colonel  H.  Walnole  and  L.  Walker  Munro,  Esq.,  Brocken- 
hurst,  Hants,  followed  in  the  order  named. 

For  six  Peaches,  one  variety,  G.  W.  Tyser,  Esq.,  was 
flr^t  with  well-flnished  and  good-sized  fruits,  second  and 
third  p'izes  being  won  respectively  by  Colonel  H.  Walpole 
and  J.  Friedlander.  Esq.  In  a  similar  class  for  Nectarines 
the  prize-winners  were  J.  B.  Fortescue,  Eiq.,  Maidenhead, 
Colonel  H.  Walpole  and  G.  W.  Tyser,  Esq.,  in  the  order 
named. 

The  class  for  three  dishes  of  Plums,  distinct,  was  well 
contested,  and  some  very  good  fruits  were  shown.  First 
honours  were  secured  by  S.  B.  Joel,  Esq.,  Reading 
(gard*»ner,  Mr.  F.  Johnson),  with  splendid  examples  of 
B^lcian  Purple,  Comte  duHathem's  Gage  and  Washington. 
W.  H  My<»r8,  Esq.,  was  a  good  second,  and  third  prize 
went  to  Colonel  H-  Walpole.  In  the  classes  for  Apples 
and  Pears  the  fruit  generally  was  not  ready  for  gathering, 
and  ought  not  to  have  been  exhibited. 

The  collpctions  of  vegetables  generally  were  of  very 
high  quality.  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons'  special  prizes 
offered  for  collections  of  vegetables,  ten  distinct  kinds, 
to  be  selected  from  a  given  list,  were  not  keenly  fought 
for,  first  prize  falling  to  W.  H.  Myers,  Esq.,  Swanmore 
House  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  Ellwood),  who  put  up  a  most 
praiaewoT-thy  collection.  His  Onions,  Leeks,  Celery, 
Carrots,  Parsnips  and  Runner  Beans  were  superb. 

In  a  similar  class  for  six  kinds,  prizes  offered  by  Messrs. 
Sutton,  competition  was  very  good  indeed,  flrst  prize 
falling  to  the  Rev.  C.  Turner,  Woburn  Park,  Weybridge 
(gardener,  Mr.  A.  Basil!).  The  Onions.  Peas  and  Potatoes 
here  were  supei-b.  Colonel  H.  Walpole  was  a  good 
second,  G.  J.  Perkins,  Esq  .  WooHon  Hill,  Newbury, 
third,  and  H.  M.  Robertson,  Esq.,  Farnham.  fourth. 

Messrs  E  Webb  and  Sons'  prizes  for  collections  of  eight 
kinds  of  vegetables,  distinct,  brought  forth  several  ex- 
hibitors, flrst  prize  being  won  by  Mr.  H.  Keep,  Alder- 
maston,  an  amateur,  who  staged  splendid  Onions,  Carrots, 
Celervand  L«^eks.  Mr.  G.  Winkworth,  Aldermaston  Street, 
R«adine,  was  second,  and  third  prize  went  to  Lord  Deciea, 
Sefton  Park,  Slough  (gardener,  Mr.  .1.  Irvine). 

In  the  class  for  six  kinds  of  vegetables,  open  to  cottagers 
and  artisans  residing  within  three  miles  of  Reading,  the 
prizes  were  won  bv  Mr.  William  Nash,  Highgrove  Street, 
Reading ;  Mr.  W.  Sapp.  Sherman  Riad,  Reading  ;  and  Mr. 
J.  Read,  Reading,  in  the  order  named.  In  a  similar  class, 
open  to  those  residing  within  ten  miles  of  Reading,  Mr. 
H.  Keep,  Mr.  A.  J.  Higgs  and  Mr.  James  Bartlett  won  in 
the  order  named. 

Non-competitive  Groups. 
Messrs.    James   Veitch    and    Sons,    Limited,    Chelsea, 
secured  a  large  gold  medal  for  a  magnificent  display  of 
fruit   trees   in    pots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Figs,  Plums, 


Apples  and  Pears  being  freely  displayed.  Mr.  Charles 
Turner  of  Slough  also  received  a  gold  medal  for  fruit  trees 
in  pots  and  hardy  fiowers,  these  being  of  very  good  auality 
indeed.  A  similar  award  was  given  to  Mrs.  Phippen  of 
Reading  for  excellent  fioral  designs,  and  Mr.  Fred  Eames 
of  Reading  also  secured  a  gold  medal  fer  a  collection  of 
hardy  flowers.  Silver  medals  were  awarded  to  Messrs.  J. 
Solder  and  Sons,  Reading,  for  a  group  of  plants ;  Miss 
Vinden,  Reading,  for  floral  designs ;  Mr.  T.  Rigg, 
Caversham,  for  cut  R^ses  and  Roses  in  pots  ;  and  Mr. 
G.  H.  .Leaver  for  a  combined  weed  extractor  and  bulb 
planter. 


ROYAL    HORTICULTURAL    SOCIETY. 

At  the  fortnightly  meeting  held  at  Vincent  Square  on  the 
31st  ult.  there  was  a  splendid  exhibition  of  flowers  and 
fruit.  The  collection  of  Grapes  from  Wisley,  the  bunches 
from  the  old  Vine  at  Hamptou  Court  and  the  fruit  trees 
in  pots  were  very  good  indeed  ;  and  the  wonderful  collec- 
tion of  photographs  taken  by  Mr.  E.  H.  Wilson  on  his  last 
Chinese  tour  attracted  mucti  well-deserved  attention,   ^sj 

Orchid  Committee. 

Present:  Mr.  J.  Gurney  Fowler  (chairman),  Messrs. 
James  O'Brien,  Harry  J.  Veitch,  H.  Little,  W.  Boxall,  J. 
Forster  Acock,  F.  J.  Hanbury,  W.  H.  Hatcher,  A.  N.  A. 
McBean,  C.  H.  Curtis,  Walter  Cobb,  W.  P.  Bound,  Arthur 
Dye,  J.  Charlesworth,  H.  G.  Alexander,  W.  H,  White, 
H.  A.  Tracey,  Gurney  Wilson,  H.  Ballantyne,  W.  Bolton, 
de  B.  Crawshay  and  Stuart  H.  Low. 

Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans,  staged  a  nice  bank 
of  well-grown  plants,  Cattleyas  being  chiefly  represented. 
These  were  mostly  small  plants,  but  all  were  well 
flowered.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

H.  S.  Goodson,  E^q.,  Fdirlawn,  Putney  (gardener,  Mr. 
G.  E.  Day),  also  exhibited  a  small  group  of  well-grown 
plants,  including  Cattleyas,  Cypripediums  and  several 
other  genera.  Epidendrum  prismatocarpum,  Miltonia 
cordia  grandiflora,  Cattleya  Vesta,  Lielio-Cattleya  St. 
Gothard  and  Brasso-Cattleya  Mme.  Hye  were  a  few  of 
the  most  interesting  sorts.     Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co.,  Hay  ward's  Heath,  had  a 
beautiful  little  group  arranged  in  their  usual  high-class 
style.  The  plants  shown  here  were  of  splendid  quality 
and  extra  well  flowered.  We  specially  noticed  Cycnoches 
maculatum.  Zygopetalum  roeblingianum,  Cattleya  Venus, 
C.  Rhoda,  C.  Harrisonse  alba  and  Trichopilia  Turialvse  as 
being  of  extra  merit     Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  William  Bull  and  Sons,  King's  Road,  Chelsea, 
had  a  small  group  of  Cattleyas,  these  being  well-flowered 
specimens.  C.  Maronii,  C.  pittiana  and  C.  Pittse  were  the 
best  shown. 

Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Bush  Hill  Park,  had  a 
superb  collection  in  the  annexe,  this  comprising  many 
beautiful  specimens  of  much  merit.  Cattleya  Harold 
variety  Hildegarde,  C.  fulvescens,  C.  gaskelliana  alba, 
C.  aurea,  Dendrobium  formosum  giganteum,  Cypripedium 
niveum  and  C.  William  Lloyd  raagnificum  were  only  a  few  of 
the  good  things  to  be  seen  here.    Silver  Binksian  medal. 

Lieut. -Colonel  G.  L.  Holford,  CLE..  C.V.O,,  Westonbirt, 
Tetbury,  Gloucester  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  G.  Alexander),  put 
up  a  very  beautiful  though  small  collection  of  more  than 
usual  interest.  Among  other  superb  plants  was  Lselio- 
Cattleya  Golden  Oriale  Westonbirt  variety,  a  most  gorgeous 
flower  of  great  purity,  and  which  received  an  award  of 
merit.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Mr.  E.  V.  Low,  Vale  Bridge,  Hayward's  Heath,  staged  a 
small  group  of  choice  plants,  among  which  were  Cattleya 
gaskelliana  alba,  Anguloa  uniflora  and  several  splendid 
Cypripediums. 

R.  G.  Thwaites,  Esq.,  Christchurch  Road,  Streatham, 
also  staged  several  very  good  plants. 

Floral  Committee. 

Present:  Mr.  W.  Marshall  (chairman),  Messrs.  C.  T. 
Druery,  H.  B.  May,  A.  Kingsmill,  J.  Green,  G.  Reuthe,  W. 
Howe,  J.  Jennings,  C.  Blick,  A.  Turner,  R.  W.  Wallace, 
William  Cuthbertson,  E,  H.  Jenkins,  W.  J.  James  and 
Charles  E.  Pearson. 

Herbaceous  Phloxes,  Gladioli,  Kniphoflas,  Montbretias, 
Pentstemons  and  other  showy  hardy  flowers  were  included 
in  a  large  group  from  Messrs.  B&rr  and  Son3,  Cavent 
Garden,  who  also  displayed  Lobelia  Firefly,  perhaps  the 
most  brilliant  of  the  L.  cardinalis  group  of  these  fine 
summer  flowers.  Veronica  subsessilis,  a  really  fine  blue- 
flowered  plant  2J  feet  high,  was  also  noted.  Silver 
Banksian  medal. 

Messrs,  Carter  Page  and  Co.,  London  Wall,  staged  a 
particularly  fine  lot  of  Cactus  Dahlias  at  the  western  end 
of  the  hall,  and  the  flowers,  arranged  in  baskets  and 
Bamboo  stands,  made  a  most  effective  display.  Draped 
with  Asparagus  and  Ampelopsis  trails  and  interspersed 
with  pot-grown  examples  of  Kochia,  the  group  was  a 
great  attraction.  Dainty,  in  yellow  and  pink,  was  very 
charming.  Single  and  Pompon  varieties  were  also  freely 
shown.    Silver-gilt  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons,  Crawley,  brought  single  and 
Cactus  Dahlias,  Phloxes,  Pentstemons  and  ether  showy 
hardy  flowers  in  great  variety,  a  few  flowering  shrubs,  as 
Leycesterla  formosa,  Weigelas,  Tamarix  and  the  like, 
being  noted. 

Messrs.  W.  Wells  and  Co.,  Limited,  Merstham,  brought 
a  fresh-looking  lot  of  the  early  flowering  Chrysanthemums, 
Phloxes  and  FentsteoiOiis,  Leslie,  a  fine  yellow  of  th« 
first-named,  being  particularly  noticeable  and  gdod.  Tha 
yellow  colour  is  deep  and  the  flower  of  capital  f«rm  on  a 
free  habit  of  growth. 

Mr.  A.  LI.  Gwlllim,  New  Eltham,  had  a  very  flno  lot  of 
single,  double  and  crested  Begonias,  the  colour  shades 
,  being  most  Intense  in  many  of  the  varieties.  Yellows, 
I  whites,  salmons,  crimsoni  and  scarlets  wer«  exoellent. 


Messrs.  J.  Peed  and  Sons,  Streatham,  S.W.,  showed  a 
very  fine  lot  of  Phloxes,  Statices  and  Sunflowers,  Knipho- 
flas, Bcablosa  and  other  things  being  good. 

Mr.  F.  Eames,  Frome,  Somerset,  had  a  full-length  table 
of  herbaceous  Phloxes,  Pentstemons,  Montbret'as  and 
other  good  hardy  flowers,  the  Phloxes  being  splendidly 
displayed.  The  collection  of  these  was  a  most  compre- 
hensive one,  the  group  containing  the  flnest  of ,  these  at 
present  in  commerce.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Mr.  W.  Pfltzer,  Stuttgart,  had  a  collection  of  Gladioli  in 
many  named  varieties,  the  standard  of  which  ,waB  much 
below  that  usually  seen. 

Some  excellent  vases  of  Sweet  Peas  came  from  Messrs. 
Dobbie  'and  Co.,  Rothesay,  the  group  containing  some 
forty  varieties.  The  flowers  for  so  late  a  date  were  also 
excellent,  and  such  notable  varieties  as  Masterpiece 
(lavender),  Sunproof  Crimson,  Mrs.  Hugh  Dickson  (an  im- 
proved Mrs.  Henry  Bell),  Mrs.  Ireland  (a  bicolor  variety  of 
cream  and  pink)  and  The  Marquis  fmauve  shaded  flower) 
were  among  the  best  of  a  capital  lot.  Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  Frank  Brazier,  Caterham.  Surrey,  had  a  large 
exhibit  of  early  flowering  Chrysanthemums,  Phloxes  and 
herbaceous  plants  generally.  The  Chrysanthemums  in- 
cluded Nina  Blick,  Brazier's  Beauty  (semi-double  blush 
white),  Leslie  (flue  yellow),  Polly  and  others.  Carnations, 
too,  and  the  annual  Scabiosas  were  well  displayed. 

Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware,  Limited,  Feltham,  had  a  pretty 
rockwork  display  with  alpines,  also  an  imposing  bank  of 
Artemisia  lactiflora,  which  in  the  mass  was  particularly 
effective. 

Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  Keston,  Kent,  brought  many  interesting 
plants,  notably  the  double  form  of  Erica  vulgaris, 
Tamarix,  Gypsophila  paniculata  fl.-pl.,  Gaura  Lindheimerl 
and  others.  Erica  vulgaris  Allportii,  a  deep-coloured 
form,  is  a  most  effective  and  good  variety.  Silver 
Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Gunn  and  Sons,  Olton,  near  Birmingham,  had  a 
particularly  fine  lot  of  herbaceous  Phloxes,  the  varieties 
being  very  numerous  and  displayed  to  advantage. 
Crimsons,  salmons,  whites  and  other  shades  were  all 
excellent.  A  mass  of  Viola  cornuta  atropurpurea  was  very 
effective  and  good.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Harkness  and  Son,  Hitchin,  had  a  nice  display 
of  hybrid  Gladioli,  chiefly  seedlings,  some  of  these  In 
salmon  and  cream  shades  being  particularly  good. 
Messrs.  Harkness  also  had  a  lovely  group  of  Roses,  of 
which  Victor  Hugo  (very  dark),  Lady  Ashtown  (pink)  and 
Edu  Meyer  (a  lovely  apricot  tone)  were  delightful  in  the 
extreme.  Hugh  Dickson  (reddish  scarlet)  was  also  notable. 
Silver-gilt  Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  Amos  Perry,  Hardy  Plant  Farm,  Enfield,  had  a 
particularly  showy  group  of  herbaceous  flowers,  of  which 
Lilium  auratum  rubro-vittatum,  L.  Batemanii  and  L. 
tigrinum  in  variety  were  good.  Phloxes,  Pentstemons, 
Kniphoflas,  Lychnis  grandiflora,  Asclepias  tuberosa, 
Coriaria  terminalis  with  orange  fruits,  and  Sigittarla 
japonica  fl.-pl  were  excellent.  A  basket  of  the  Belladonna 
Lily  was  very  showy.     Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  R.  Wallace  and  Co.,  Colchester,  had  a  remark- 
able exhibit  of  the  newer  Montbretias,  a  table  length 
being  occupied  by  the  cut  sprays.  The  collection  repre- 
sented the  cream  of  these  Bowers  as  raised  at  Westwick, 
and  is,  without  doubt,  quite  unique.  Pageant,  of  orange 
shade,  is  remarkable  for  stature  and  colour ;  King 
Edmund,  of  a  clear  apricot  orange,  is  also  of  fine  stature ; 
while  Prometheus,  the  darkest  of  all,  is  unmistakably  the 
king  of  the  lot.  Dark  in  colour  in  bud  and  proportionately 
so  in  stem.  It  is  a  remarkably  handsome  plant  and  quite 
unique.  St.  Botolph  (yellow).  Lady  Hamilton  (orange 
yellow),  and  Norrie  (with  dark  buds  and  stems  and 
orange  flowers  touched  reddish  crimson  externally)  were 
also  good.  Messrs.  Wallace  also  exhibited  a  very  nice 
collection  of  Gladiolus,  among  which  the  hybrids  of  G. 
primulinus  were  particularly  interesting  and  beautiful. 
The  shades  of  rose,  cream,  cherry  red  and  the  like  were 
very  remarkable.  The  blue-flowered  section  of  Gladiolus 
were  also  well  shown,  and  Lilium  Henryi  was  very  good. 
Silver-gilt  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Kelway  and  Sons,  Langport,  had  an  exceptional 
exhibit  of  Gladiolus,  the  bold  spikes  of  flowers  in  a  won- 
derful range  of  colours  being  very  striking  and  effective. 
Golden  Measure.  Valdora  (pink  and  rose),  Morris  Dancer 
(salmon).  Lady  Rosemary  Portal  (pink  and  yellow).  Lady 
Moyra  Cavendish  (pale  salmon)  and  Prince  Henry  of  York 
(flame  scarlet)  being  among  the  best  in  a  really  formidable 
lot.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Son,  Edmonton,  had  au  excellent 
table  of  flowering  plants— Heliotropes,  Veronicas,  Bou- 
vardias  and  Carnations  in  free-flowered  and  well-grown 
plants.  In  the  last-named  group  Coronation,  The  Belle, 
Elizabeth  (scarlet),  Mrs.  Burnett  and  Fair  Maid  were  seen 
to  advantage.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond,  had  a  capital  display  of 
Clematises,  Lady  Northcliffe  (deep  blue),  integrlfolia 
Durandi,  Beauty  of  Worcester  (clear  blue)  and  Mrs.  G. 
Jackman  (white)  being  noted.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea, 
brought  a  compact  group  In  flower  of  the  Javanico- 
jasmineides  section  of  Rhododendrons,  among  which 
President  (apricot).  Primrose,  Multicolor  Ruby,  Brilliant, 
Taylori  (pink)  and  Cloth  of  Gold  were  excellent.  R. 
jasminiflorus  carminatum  was  also  very  fine.  Messrs. 
Veitch  also  brought  a  fine  collection  of  new  trees 
and  shrubs  recently  collected  in  Central  and  Western 
China,  among  which  Magnolia  Delavayl,  Artemisia  lacti- 
flora compacta,  Eleutherococcus  leucorrhizus,  Buddlelas 
in  variety,  Thalictrum  dipterocarpus.  Tilia  Olivorl, 
Viburnum  rhytidophyllum,  Ilex  Henryi,  Viburnum  Henryi 
with  crenate  leafage,  Berberis  Gaignepainii  (very  distinct), 
Cotoneaater  rufosa  Henryi,  Veratrum  Wilsonii  with  ertant 
flowers,  and  Davidia  involucrata  were  among  the  best. 
SUver-gllt  Flora  medal. 


^sfey- 


GARDEN. 


*-S 


No.  1973.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


September  11,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


BiSA    6RANDIFL0KA 

AND  Its  CULTTJRE  . .     441 
NoTKS  OF  THB  WBBK 

Forthcoming  events      442 
National    Vegetable 
Society 442 

CORBBSPONDBNOB 

Antholyza  paniculata    442 
Ro  se     Dorothy 

Perkins 443 

Roses  on  their  own 

roots 443 

The     Shrewsbury 
Horticultural  Show    443 
Bishopsgate  Gardens  in 

summer       443 

Rose  Gasdbn 
The  newer  Roses     . .    444 
Rose  Ecarlate  . .     . .    444 
Fbuit  Garden 
Growing  Peaches  in 
a  small  greenhouse    444 
Flower  Garden 
The     hardy     Lady's 

Slipper  Orchids  . .  444 
Sweet  Pea  chat  . .  445 
Transplanting      the 

Christmas  Rose     . .     445 
Camassia  LeichtUnii      446 
Coloured  Plate 
Notes  on  Tulips       . .    446 


Trees  and  Shrubs 
Olearia  nitida  . .     . . 
The    Scarlet  -  fruited 
Elderberry     . .     . .     447 

GARDENING  FOR  BEGINNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 
week 

Increasing  the 
LauruBtiuus  and 
the  Olearia    . .     . . 

Potting  Arum  Lilies 

Hints  on  watering 
cuttings 

How  to  prepare 
manure  for  Mush- 
room-beds     . .     . . 


447 


44S 


449 


..  449 

TEm  Town  Gabden  . .  449 

GABDBNINa  OF  THE  WBEK 

For  the    South   and 

South  Midlands    ..  450 
For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands  ..  450 

Books     45U 

New  plants 451 

The  Editor's  Table      . .  451 

Answers     to     Corrb- 

spondbnts 

Flower  garden  ..     ..  451 

Rose  garden      . .     . .  461 

Greenhouse       ..     ..  452 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Rose  Dorothy  Perkins  in  a  North  Loudon  garden     . .    443 

One  of  the  hardy  Lady's  Slipper  Orchids       445 

Gamassia  LeichtUnii  in  a  South  Devon  garden    . .     . .    446 

Darwin  Tulips Coloured  plate 

A  free-flowering  and  rare  hardy  shrub  (Olearia  nitida)    447 
Increasing  the  Laurustinus  and  the  Olearia. .     . .    448,  449 


BDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  -matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  *^ Answers  to  Correspondents"  colum/ns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  commiunications  m/ust  be  written  dearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Gabden,  accompanied  by  nanne  a/nd  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcome  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  loiU  Twt  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasoTiable  ca/re,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  he  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  Tiot  be  able  to  use, 
a/nd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  m/uM  nat  be  taken  as  evide-nce 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  GARDEN 
xoill  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offlces:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


DISA     GRANDIFLORA     AND 
ITS     CULTURE. 

THE  beautiful  group  of  well-grown  and 
superbly  flowered  plants  of  this  lovely 
Table  Mountain  Orchid  exhibited 
at  the  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  at  Vincent  Square  on 
August  17  by  Mrs.  Bisehoffaheim  (gardener,  Mr. 
Taylor)  proved  a  source  of  great  attraction  and 
pleasure  to  a  large  number  of  visitors.  The  rich 
scarlet,  purple  and  gold  of  the  wing-like  petals, 
combined  with  the  white  to  rose  colour  of  the 
upper  hooded  part,  veined  as  this  was  with  deli- 
cate lines  of  richest  purple,  presented  so  rich  and 
brilliant  a  combination  of  colouring  as  is  scarcely 
possible  in  any  ether  flower.  No  wonder  it  is 
sometimes  called  the  flower  of  the  gods. 

This  group  brought  to  my  mind  the  large  col- 
lection of  these  plants  which  I  had  under  my 
charge  a  good  many  years  ago  when  gardener  at 
Chatsworth,  and  where  the  then  Orehid  foreman 
succeeded  so  well  in  their  culture.  It  is  a  singular 
phenomenon  that,  although  in  the  hands  of 
some  cultivators  it  is  one  of  the  easiest  and 
simplest  of  all  plants  to  grow,  yet  in  the  hands 
of  others,  equally  competent  in  other  respects, 
the  plant  has  proved  incorrigible  and  will  not 
grow  at  all. 

Seeing  that  it  is  a  plant  of  such  rare  beauty 
when  successfully  grown,  that  it  only  requires 
the  accommodation  of  an  ordinary  cool  green- 
house, and  that  no  particular  trained  skill  is 
required  in  its  culture,  I  venture  to  give  a  few 
particulars  of  this  in  the  hope  that  some  readers 
of  The  Garden  who  have  not  previously  under- 
taken its  culture  may  be  induced  to  try. 

To  start  with,  we  will  take  the  plant  as  we 
saw  it  the  other  day  in  full  bloom.  I  will 
suppose  that  the  grower  has  an  ordinary  span- 
roofed  or  lean-to  greenhouse  (with  suflBoient  heat 
to  keep  out  frost  in  winter),  with  a  path  in  the 
middle  or  side  as  the  case  may  be.  Immediately 
behind  the  door  in  a  comer  of  the  house  and  on 
the  sunny  side  clear  a  space  on  the  stage 
sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  the  number  of 
plants  you  wish  to  grow.  This  will  suit  the 
plant  admirably  both  summer  and  winter. 
While  in  bloom  give  abundance  of  air  during 
fine  days,  opening  the  door  wide  and  the  venti- 
lators to  their  full  capacity,  and  leave  a  chink 
of  air  on  both  top  and  bottom  ventilators  all 
night  also,  shading  from  bright  sunshine. 

Watering. — During  its  season  of  growth  the 
Liisa  requires  an  abundant  supply  of  water.  It 
used  to  be  thought  that  the  soft-water  supply 
in  use  at  Chatsworth,  collected  as  it  was  off  the 
peat  moors  lying  between  Chatsworth  and 
Chesterfield,    had    something    to    do    with    its 


successful  culture  there.  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is 
useless,  in  my  opinion,  to  try  and  grow  this 
plant  where  the  water  is  strongly  charged  with 
lime  or  chalk.  In  such  cases  rain-water  must  be 
used. 

Reverting  again  to  the  plant  in  bloom .  While 
the  flowers  are  fresh  and  there  are  any 
buds  left  to  expand,  the  roots  must  be  kept 
moist  (always  at  all  times  watering  the 
plants  overhead  from  a  can  with  a  fine  rose 
to  it).  When  the  flowers  and  stems  have 
faded  and  the  latter  die  down,  they  should  be 
cut  ofl'  and  water  applied  sparingly  at  the  roots 
for  a  time.  It  will  not  be  long,  however, 
before  young  growths  will  appear  at  the  base  of 
the  old  flower- stalk.  These  must  be  encouraged 
to  grow  by  occasional  applications  of  water,  and 
by  the  end  of  September  or  beginning  of  October 
the  time  has  arrived  for  the  plants  to  be 
repotted. 

The  Potting  Compost. — In  speaking  of  this 
with  the  object  of  making  clear  to  the  grower 
the  quantities  of  each  constituent  to  be  used,  I 
cannot  do  better,  I  think,  than  reduce  each 
to  a  certain  measure.  To  begin  with,  procure 
some  best  Orehid  peat  full  of  fibre  and  fairly 
hard — peat  that  will  not  easily  crumble  away 
into  dust  or  small  particles.  Pull  it  to  pieces 
the  size  of  small  Walnuts  with  the  hands,  sifting 
away  all  the  finer  portions  from  it.  To  a  gallon  of 
this  add  another  gallon  of  live  sphagnum  moss, 
cutting  it  small  with  a  pair  of  sharp  shears. 
To  this  add  half  a  gallon  of  clean  crocks  broken 
small,  the  dust  to  be  included.  Mix  the  whole 
thoroughly  together,  and  you  will  have  an  ideal 
compost  for  the  growth  of  this  plant. 

The  next  thing  to  do  is  to  prepare  the  pots. 
Where  a  large  stock  of  the  plant  exists  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  select  the  stronger  growths  at 
potting-time,  placing  seven  or  eight  of  them  in 
an  8-inch  pot.  These  treated  as  one  plant  will 
grow  into  fine  specimens,  most  of  the  growths 
giving  from  five  to  seven  blooms  each ;  but  in 
the  case  of  those  with  a  limited  stock  it  is  better 
to  place  each  growth  at  the  time  of  potting  into 
a  single  pot — the  largest  into  5-inch  or  6-ineh 
pots,  the  medium  into  4-inch  pots,  and  the  small 
ones  into  3-inch  pots ;  these  latter  will  not 
flower  the  first  year.  The  pots  and  the  crocks 
must  be  scrupulously  clean.  The  latter  should  be 
broken  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  Cob  Nut  and  the 
dust  sifted  away,  filling  the  pot  vnth  them  to 
one-third  its  depth. 

Potting. — First  turn  the  plants  carefully  out 
of  their  pots  ;  then  divide  the  growths  into  sizes 
of  1,  2  or  3,  potting  the  first  size  in  a  5-ineh  or 
6-inch  pot,  according  to  its  strength,  and  the 
weaker  ones  smaller  pots,  preserving  to  each 
growth   every  particle  of  live  root  which  may 


442 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  September  11,  1909. 


belong  to  it.  The  plants  should  be  so  fixed  in 
the  pots  that  their  base  is  at  least  1  inch  higher 
than  the  rims.  Place  the  compost  carefully 
round  the  roots  as  potting  proceeds,  pressing  it 
firmly  down  with  the  hands. 

After-treatment.— The  newly  potted  plants 
must  be  placed  back  in  the  sunny  corner  behind 
the  door,  having  first  washed  the  glass  and 
woodwork  clean,  elevating  each  plant  on  to  the 
top  of  an  empty  inverted  0-inoh  pot.  This 
secures  a  freer  and  better  circulation  of  air 
among  the  plants  than  would  be  the  case  if 
placed  directly  on  the  stage.  The  plants  will 
continue  to  grow  slightly  until  the  end  of 
October,  and  must  be  kept  fairly  moist  at  the 
roots  by  an  occasional  sprinkling  overhead. 
After  this  date  the  plants  will  remain  dormant 
during  winter,  receiving  but  little  water,  but 
never  allowed  to  become  too  dry.  Air  must 
be  admitted  on  all  favourable  occasions,  and  the 
temperature  should  not  be  allowed  to  fall 
below  47°  Fahr.  In  frosty  weather  it  is  much 
better  to  protect  with  mats  than  to  force  the 
temperature  up  with  fire-heat. 

As  spring  approaches  and  the  warmth  of  the 
days  increases,  so  must  the  plants  receive  more 
copious  waterings,  always  overhead,  with  a  rosed 
pot,  and  abundance  of  air  be  given  when  the 
weather  is  favourable,  with  slight  shade  from 
hot  sun.  Owen  Thomas. 


NOTES    OF   THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

*„*  JTie  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  the 

respective  Secretaries. 

September  14.  — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m.  Lecture  at  three 
o'clock  on  "The  Physiology  of  Pruning,"  by 
Mr.  E.  A.  Bunyard. 

September  16.  —  National  Rose  Society's 
Autumn  Exhibition,  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m. 


National  Vegetable  Society.— This 

newly  form«d  and  important  society  is  quietly 
forging  ahead,  and  already  has  some  good  work 
in  hand.  Trials  of  spring  Cabbages  and  autumn- 
sown  Onions  are  being  made  at  Guildford  on 
gravelly  soil,  at  Twickenham  on  marshy  land  and 
at  Romford  on  stiff  Essex  clay,  and  the  seeds  are 
sown  and  the  young  plants  making  good  progress. 
What  the  new  society  now  wants  is  members, 
and  there  must  be  many  of  our  readers  who  have 
a  great  interest  in  vegetables  and  who  would 
derive  much  benefit  from  the  society.  As  pre- 
viously stated  in  our  columns.  His  Grace  the  Duke 
of  Portland,  K.G.,  is  the  president.  The  annual 
subscription  for  members  is  only  08. ,  and  we  appeal 
to  our  readers  to  come  forward  and  support  the 
committee  in  its  praiseworthy  endeavours  to 
promote  the  culture  and  more  extensive  con- 
sumption of  high-class  home-grown  vegetables. 
A  circular  has  been  prepared  setting  forth 
clearly  the  aims  of  the  society  and  inviting 
membership,  and  a  copy  of  this  will  be  sent  to 
anyone  who  will  write  to  the  hon.  secretary, 
Mr.  E.  G.  Quick,  for  it.  His  address  is  Kelrosoott, 
Harrow  View,  Wealdstone,  Harrow. 

Home     bottled     and    ppesepved 
fpulta  and  vegetables.— A  show  of  the 

above,  including  fruits  bottled  in  water  and  in 
syrup,  jams,  ifec,  will  be  held  from  December  1  to 
4,  1909,  at  the  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster.  Dried  or  bottled  fruits 
and  vegetables  of  any  kind  may  be  shown, 
subject  to  the  conditions  of  (a)  there  being  no 
chemical  preservative  or  (6)  artificial  colouring 
matter  used,  and  (c)  of  their  being  tasted  by  the 
judges  ;  {d)  provided  also  they  have  been  grown 
in  the  British  Islands.     Tomatoes  are  considered 


vegetables.  Bottles  with  glass  lids  are  greatly 
to  be  preferred.  Awards  of  cups,  medals  and 
other  prizes  will  be  made.  For  particulars  apply 
to  the  Secretary,  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  Vincent  Square,  S.W. 

MP.  vnison's  Chinese  photo- 
graphs.— As  we  were  unable  in  our  last  issue, 
owing  to  the  pressure  on  our  space,  to  refer  in 
greater  detail  to  some  of  the  more  important 
photographs  taken  by  Mr.  E.  H.  Wilson  when 
in  charge  of  the  Harvard  University  Expedition 
to  Central  and  Western  China  in  1907-9,  we 
take  this  opportunity  of  doing  so  in  the  interests 
of  our  readers  and  by  reason  of  the  unique 
character  of  the  collection.  The  exhibited 
portion  of  the  collection  numbered  some  twelve 
or  fourteen  dozen  out  of  a  total  of  several 
hundreds  taken  by  Mr.  Wilson,  the  pictures 
being  subsequently  developed  and  printed  by 
Mr.  E.  J.  Wallis  of  Kew.  The  photographs 
were  of  a  very  comprehensive  character,  and 
embraced  the  flora,  fauna  and  scenery  of  the 
country  visited  by  Mr.  Wilson  on  his  third  trip 
to  China.  Among  those  we  regarded  as  particu- 
larly interesting  were  Davidia  involucrata,  thickly 
set  with  the  whitish  bracts  which  we  are  waiting 
to  see  on  cultivated  examples  in  England  ;  while 
of  Cypripedium  tibeticum  a  very  fine  group  was 
shown.  Of  Paulownia  imperialis  a  well-flowered 
tree  and  a  big  truss  of  the  huge  Foxglove  or 
Pentstemon  like  flowers  were  separately  dis- 
played. Very  interesting  and  good,  too,  were 
the  fruits  and  fruiting  sprays  of  Actinidia 
chinensis  ;  while  the  picture  of  a  grove  of  the 
rather  columnar-looking  Populus  euphratioa,  trees 
of  about  100  feet  high,  growing  outside  the  city 
of  Tatien-lu  also  showed  a  snow  peak  estimated 
at  23,000  feet  high  in  the  far  distanee.  Fields 
of  the  Opium  Poppy,  a  great  wealth  of  Nelum- 
bium  speciosum.  Primula  sinensis  and  P.  Veitchii 
in  their  wild  state  on  nearly  perpendicular 
banks  were  of  much  interest,  though  perhaps  of 
even  greater  interest  still  were  giant  examples 
of  rare  trees,  which  revealed  their  bark  and 
stems  in  a  most  remarkable  manner.  This 
unique  collection  of  pictures  was  admirably 
displayed,  and  well  merited  the  gold  medal 
awarded  by  the  council.  — E.  H.  J. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not   responsible  Jor  the   opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 


Vepbascum    pulvepulentum.— 

Allow  me  to  observe  that  the  Mullein  you 
publish  in  your  issue  for  August  28  (page  422) 
is  not  the  Verbascum  pulverulentum  of  Villars, 
but  the  V.  olympioum  of  Boissner  (vide  "  Flora 
Orientalis,"  Vol.  IV.,  pages  322  and  324).  So  far 
as  I  can  see  by  the  photograph,  the  leaves  are 
entire,  as  are  those  of  V.  olympicum — those  of 
V.  pulverulentum  are  if  anything  crenate — and 
the  flowers  are  not  in  small  fascicles  separate, 
but  seem  to  form  long  spikes,  as  do  those  of  V. 
olympicum,  and  the  whole  aspect  of  the  plant  is 
that  of  the  beautiful  V.  olympicum,  which  is  one 
of  the  highest  biermial  plants.  The  two  plants 
grow  wild  in  the  Orient ;  but  pulverulentum 
is  an  European  species,  too,  and  is  found  in  our 
country,  where  it  is  very  common.  V.  olympi- 
cum is  the  best  of  the  Mulleins,  but  rather  too 
big  for  a  small  garden. — H.  Corbevon,  Otneve. 

A  gaPden  theatre. — Gardeners  in  these 
days  of  pleasure  pursuits  are  constantly  being 
required  to  provide  as  parts  of  the  garden 
pleasure  grounds,  croquet,  tennis  and  bowling 
lawns  or  courts,  and,  on  a  much  larger  scale 
where  there  are  parks,  golf  courses,  all  of 
which,  not  merely  in  the  making,  but  also  in  the 
upkeep,  require  much  additional  labour  and 
expenditure.  All  these  pleasing  amenities  are 
provided  in  a  liberal — indeed,  in  an  almost 
sumptuous — way  in  the  pleasure  grounds  and 
park    attached    to    Esher    Place,    Surrey,    the 


residence  of  Sir  Edgar  and  Lstdy  Helen  Vincent. 
The  grounds  are  well  timbered  and  furnish 
some  splendid  landscape  views.  Beech  does  well, 
many  superb  trees  being  in  the  grounds,  although 
perhaps  the  noblest  tree  of  all  is  a  really  grand 
Tulip  Tree,  its  rich,  luxuriant  green  leafage  and 
wide-spreading  branches  giving  to  it  all  the 
regal  aspects  of  a  woodland  monarch.  Exposed 
as  it  is  on  its  elevated  site  to  all  the  fierce  winds 
of  the  south-west,  it  seems  to  withstand  them 
all  quite  unharmed.  But  interesting  from  old 
Elizabethan  associations  and  beautiful  as  are 
the  grounds,  a  remarkable  addition  to  them 
was  made  last  winter  in  the  shape  of  an 
a!  fresco  or  lawn  theatre.  This  is  constructed 
out  of  the  deep  slope  of  lawn  which  runs  from 
the  mansion,  with  a  huge  covered  tennis  court  on 
its  eastern  side  to  a  westerly  direction,  the  stage 
being  west  and  the  auditorium  east.  Tnis  part 
of  the  excavation,  for  that  is  what  the  theatre 
really  is,  has  from  side  to  side  at  the  top  a  width 
of  about  98  feet,  and  the  circumference  of  the 
semi-circle  thus  found  on  the  upper  level  is 
198  feet.  The  lower  centre  is  a  level  or  floor  for 
stalls  of  a  semi-circular  form  42  feet  wide,  and 
from  the  front  of  the  stage  to  the  apex  of  the 
bow  36  feet.  Then,  beside  and  behind  this  floor, 
to  which  in  each  case  access  is  obtained  by  a  series 
of  turf  steps,  are  four  terraces.  These  are  on 
their  level  surfaces  each  3^  feet  broad,  and 
rise  2  feet  one  above  the  other.  The  banks 
to  these  t«-races  are  slopes  at  an  angle  of 
45°,  and  each  is  some  3J  feet  deep  on  the  face. 
The  upper  terrace  is  of  great  breadth,  giving 
ample  room  for  seats  in  rows  four  to  five  deep. 
The  width  of  the  lower  terraces  is  suited  each  for 
one  row  of  seats  and  ample  walking  room  in 
front  to  reach  them  from  the  respective  flights 
of  steps.  It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  at 
least  1,000  persons  might  be  conveniently  seated 
in  this  huge  auditorum.  The  stage,  which  is 
elevated  2  feet  above  the  level  of  the  stall  floor, 
is  56  feet  wide  in  front  for  a  depth  of  20  feet  and 
has  a  further  depth  of  one-half  that  width  for 
20  feet  more.  This  narrower  part  is  margined  by 
enclosures  for  retiring-rooms  for  the  performers. 
Along  the  front  of  the  stage  is  planted  a  row  of 
pink  China  Roses.  All  other  parts  of  the  stall 
are  partially  enclosed  with  Yew  hedges,  but 
these  have  yet  to  make  material  growth.  The 
entire  surface  of  stage,  dressing-rooms,  steps  and 
auditorum  is  of  soft  turf,  and  is  mown  every 
week.  It  would  be  thought  that  the  mowing  of 
the  terrace  slopes  with  a  lawn-mower  would  have 
been  very  difficult,  but  that  is  easily  overcome, 
as  while  one  man  propels  the  mower  from  below, 
another  with  a  stout  cord  and  walking  on  the 
edge  of  the  terrace  above  keeps  it  in  exact 
position.  The  practical  designing  and  carrying 
out  of  the  novel  work  of  formation  was  done  by 
the  able  gardener,  Mr.  T.  Gibbons,  who  also 
formed  the  golf  course  and  the  tennis  and 
croquet  courts.  Work  of  this  kind  needing  con- 
siderable constructive  abilities  serves  to  illustrate 
something  of  the  nature  of  the  duties  gardeners 
are  in  these  days  required  to  undertake  and  how 
essential  it  is  they  be  exceptionally  capable  men. 
Necessarily,  the  formation  of  the  theatre 
necessitated  the  moving  of  a  huge  body  of  soil. 
It  only  needs  to  be  seen  to  satisfy  the  most 
exacting  that  the  work  was  carried  out  with 
singular  success.  — A.  D. 

Antholyza  panlculata.— The  note  on 
this  plant  by  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  in  The 
Garden,  August  28  (page  428),  may  be  supple- 
mented by  the  remark  that  this  bulb  is  hardier 
than  is  generally  understood.  We  cultivate  it 
in  the  open  in  the  South- West  of  Scotland  with- 
out any  protection  whatever,  except  that  we 
cover  it  with  2  inches  of  litter  or  ashes  the  first 
winter  after  planting.  It  is  a  handsome  bulbous 
plant,  and,  if  left  alone,  soon  makes  good  clumps, 
which  are  of  striking  effect  in  late  autumn.  It 
is  desirable  toallow  the  old  foliage  to  remain  on 
the  plant  ntil  spring  removes  all  danger  of 
severe  frosts,  but  it  requires  in  after  years  no 
other  protection  with   us.     I  approve  of  deep 


September  11,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


443 


planting,  and  my  oorma  are  at  present  about 
9  inches  deep.  The  fine  variety  A.  p.  major  is 
very  handsome,  but  is  a  poor  bloomer  with  us,  as 
the  flowers  generally  come  much  later  than  those 
of  the  type.  This  year  only  one  spike  will  be  in 
flower  in  September,  and  even  this  is  quite 
unusual,  as  it  is  seldom  that  they  are  able  to 
open  before  frosts  destroy  the  buds.  — S.  Arnott, 
S^mnymead,  Dumfries. 

Rose  Dorothy  Perkins.— I  am  for- 
warding you  a  photograph  of  a  fine  specimen  of 
Rose  Dorothy  Perkins  grown  on  the  wiohuraiana 
stock.  I  think  this  is  as  fine  a  standard  as  can 
be  seen  in  the  environs  of  London.  It  is  growing 
in  my  ordinary  garden  at  Tottenham,  within 
seven  miles  of  the  city  ;  it  is  8  feet  high  and  1.5 
feet  in  ciroumferenee,  and  looks  a  perfect  huge 
bouquet  of  flowers,  scarcely  any  of  the  green 
leaves  showing.  As  I  have  been  for  many  years 
a  reader  of  your  valuable  paper,  and  obtained  all 
my  hints  from  it,  I  thought  this  illustration 
would  be  interesting  to  other  readers. — W.  J. 
Thomas,  The  Limes,  Northumberland  Park, 
Tottenham,  N. 

Roses  on  theip  own  roots.— I  write 

to  say  that  I  can  supply  a  number  of  Roses  of 
certain  varieties  on  their  own  roots.  Perhaps 
"  McH."  might  like  to  know.  I  am  inserting  an 
advertisement  to  this  effect  in  The  Garden. 
— RoLLO  Meybr,  Clophill  Rectory,  Ampthill, 
Bedfordshire. 

Noticing  the  enquiry  of  your  corre- 
spondent "  MoH."  for  Roses  on  their  own  roots, 
I  beg  to  say  that  I  have  been  supplied  with  good 
quantities  of  these — mostly  large  plants — by 
William  Paul  and  Son,  Waltham  Cross,  Herts, 
and  they  do  well  with  me.  I  get  them  first  to 
send  me  a  eatilogue  with  those  marked  which 
can  be  supplied  on  their  own  roots  from  the  open 
ground.  The  wiehuraiana  varieties  are  specially 
good. — Miss  Robinson,  Hants. 

The  Shrewsbury  Horticultural 
Show.— As  a  visitor  to  this  great  exhibition,  I 
strongly  sympathise  with  the  comments  of  the 
writer  of  your  excellent  report  of  that  show 
when  referring  to  what  he  well  describes  as  the 
wretchedly  inadequate  space  allowed  for  the 
decorated  fruit  tables.  It  was  possible  to  see 
one  side  only  of  each  of  these  superb  arrange- 
ments, and  their  beauty  and  effect  was  thus 
greatly  marred.  What  is  needed  is  such  room 
afforded  to  each  table  right  in  the  centre  of  the 
tent  that  at  least  6  feet  wide  should  separate 
them,  so  that  visitors  might  see  all  around  each 
one  ;  but  the  same  comment  applies  to  so  many 
of  the  superb  exhibits  in  the  show.  In  the  great 
Grape  class,  for  instance,  exhibit  followed  exhibit 
so  close  that  it  was  difficult  to  tell  where  one 
began  and  the  other  ended.  In  the  flower  decora- 
tion classes  grand  bouquets — the  finest  ever  seen 
— were  so  crowded  that  some  almost  hid  others 
from  view.  In  the  great  plant  classes,  especially 
in  the  decorative  groups,  there  was  really  no 
space  allowed  between  each  other,  and  thus  it 
was  not  easy  to  define  their  bounds.  Practi- 
cally in  so  many  directions  greater  space 
between  each  exhibit  was  much  needed,  yet  in 
some  other  cases  there  was  ample  space  and  to 
spare.  Certainly  the  committee  uses  every  inch 
of  room  with  tents  it  is  permitted  to  occupy, 
and  a  marvellous  exhibition  results.  That  makes 
it  all  the  more  regretful  that,  because  classes  are 
80  numerous — really,  in  so  many  sections,  need- 
lessly numerous  —  things  have  to  be  crowded 
unduly,  much  to  their  detriment,  as  also  that  of 
the  show.  I  note  a  complaint  that  enough 
awards  were  not  made  to  honorary  exhibits ; 
but  is  it  worth  while  to  admit  so  many  of  these 
honorary  exhibits  that  occupy  valuable  space 
and  do  so  little  to  add  interest  to  the  show? 
Not  a  few  single-dish  classes  in  the  vegetable 
tent  were  unworthy  of  the  show,  and  their  room 
might  have  been  far  better  occupied.  Evidently 
the  only  course  open  to  enable  the  show  to  be 
what  it  ought  to  be  is  to  materially  cut  down 
classes  and  inferior  exhibits. — Visitor. 


■•^ 


*■■'  '  '^  X'"   ;"■"■    £*- 


BISHOPSGATE    GARDENS  IN 
SUMMER. 

BEING  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Windsor 
recently,  I  was  privileged  to  inspect 
these  beautiful  gardens,  which  are 
situate  on  the  outskirts  of  Windsor 
Park  and  adjoining  those  of  Baron 
Schroder.  Although  I  wish  to 
describe  the  charming  arrangement  of  so  vast  a 
collection  of  choice  flowers  and  shrubs,  I  am 
compelled  to  trust  to  the  imagination  of  the 
reader  and  confine  myself  to  a  brief  outline  of 
the  many  subjects  which  help  to  build  up  such  a 
series  of  natural  pictures.  Needless  to  say,  the 
most  exquisite  taste  has  been  displayed  through- 
out by  Lady  Marcus  Beresford,  who  is  a  genuine 
lover  of  gardening.  From  time  to  time  Lady 
Beresford  has  been  able,  through  the  kindness  of 
His  Majesty  King 
Edward,  to  take  into 
the  garden  several 
old  Oaks,  which  add 
considerably  to  the 
surroundings,  the 
beauties  of  which 
have  been  greatly 
enhanced  by  the 
grouping  of  choice 
shrubs.  Here  can 
be  found  beds  of 
Japanese  Aoers,  in- 
cluding the  varie- 
ties atropurpureum, 
aureum,  dissecta, 
oolchicum  rubrum 
and  californicum 
aureum,  the  last- 
mentioned  being  one 
of  the  best;  also  I 
noted  good  speci- 
mens of  the  varie- 
gated Maple  (Acer 
Negundo)  and  the 
golden  variety,  both 
enjoying  partial 
shade.  A  bed  of 
large  dimensions  is 
also  filled  with 
bright  -  coloured 
Azalea  mollis,  which 
revel  in  the  leaf- 
soil,  peat  and  sand  ; 
this  had  contained 
in  addition  100  or 
more  massive  spikes 
of  Lilium  auratum 
platyphyllum,  many 
of  them  10  feet  high. 
Other  Lilies  to  be 
noticed  were  several 
hundred  L.  davuri- 
oum  just  passing 
out  of  flower,  L. 
Leichtlinii,  L. 
Brownii,  L.   specio- 

sum  magnificum,  L.  Batemannse,  L.  candidum, 
L.  pardalinum  and  many  others.  Rambling 
Roses  have  been  extensively  planted,  and 
include  Philadelphia,  Wallflower,  Lady  Gay, 
Mrs.  F.  W.  Flight,  Blush  Rambler,  Gardenia, 
Alberic  Barbier,  Climbing  La  France  and 
several  others,  some  growing  in  isolated  posi- 
tions, while  others  have  the  support  of  tree 
stems ;  but  most  attractive  of  all  was  a 
charming  hedge  of  Crimson  Rambler  some 
70  feet  or  so  in  length  and  in  perfect  order. 
This  alone  when  in  flower  must  be  beautiful. 
Rhododendrons  included  all  the  best  varieties 
procurable,  and  have  been  so  distributed  about 
this  beauty  spot  that  even  when  not  in  flower 
they  act  as  a  foil  to  the  attractiveness  of  some 
other  object.  Mr.  Markham,  the  head-gardener, 
told  me  they  had  none  so  good  as  Pink  Pearl, 
which  had  been  planted  in  fair  quantity  ;  but 
others  worthy  of  note  were  R.  Cynthia,  Michael 


Waterer,  Prometheus,  The  Queen,  Lord  Lans- 
downe,  Kate  Waterer,  John  Waterer,  Martin 
Hope  Sutton  and  several  dozen  plants  of  Veitch's 
Early  Gem.  Several  beds  were  used  for  the 
display  of  dwarf  Roses,  the  most  striking  of  all 
being  one  of  Ulrich  Brunner,  a  Rose  which  is 
loved  by  all.  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Lady 
Ashtown  and  Caroline  Testout  are  all  varieties 
to  be  seen  massed  together  to  give  a  delightful 
effect  from  some  point  or  other,  with  here  and 
there  a  weeping  standard  wiehuraiana.  Great  care 
has  been  given  to  the  selection  of  ornamental 
and  flowering  shrubs  as  well  as  to  their  arrange- 
ment. These  include  Viburnums  in  variety, 
Pimorphanthus,  Colutea  arborescens,  Sophora 
japonica,  Cassalpinia  japonica,  Rhus  Cotinus, 
AilanthuB  glandulosa,  Buddleias,  Cotoneasters, 
Cerasus  in  variety,  Exochorda  grandiflora  (Pearl 
Bush),  gold  and  silver  Cornus,  Forsythias 
in     variety,     massive     specimens      of      Spirasa 


«^'#^^^#s^^- v^  ^  * 


ROSE   DOROTHY    PERKINS   IN   A  NORTH   LONDON   GARDEN. 


Lindheimeri,  flowering  Almonds,  Arbutus  Unedo, 
Garrya  elliptica  and  others  too  numerous  to 
mention.  Some  of  the  flower-beds  about  the 
house  were  planted  with  more  tender  subjects. 
Strikingly  beautiful  were  several  Begonias,  the 
varieties  most  noticeable  being  Lafayette  and 
Count  Zeppelin  ;  these  were  edged  with  the  new 
white  Ivy  dentata  variegata,  and  gave  a  hand- 
some finish  to  each. 

No  vegetables  for  eating  are  grown,  the  entire 
kitchen  garden  being  devoted  to  flowers  for  cut- 
ting, such  as  Roses  and  Sweet  Peas,  while  the 
houses,  which  are  not  numerous,  are  utilised  for 
growing  Malmaison  Carnations,  choice  Ferns  and 
other  plants  suitable  for  home  decoration.  The 
herbaceous  borders,  four  in  number,  are  well 
filled  with  only  the  very  choicest  of  plants  that 
can  be  found,  and  reflect  the  greatest  credit  on 
Mr.  Markham.  George  Burrows. 

Shendish  Oardens,  Hemel  Hempstead. 


444 


rHE    GARDEN. 


I  September  11,  1909. 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 

THE    NEWER   ROSES. 

THE  Rose  season  of  1909  will  probably 
go  down  in  most  rosariana'  calendars 
as  a  disappointing  one.  It  has  been 
a  black  year  to  many.  To  few  can  it 
have  been  satisfactory,  and  even  those 
would  have  some  qualifying  remarks 
that  would  discount  the  satisfaction.  The 
exhibitions  have  been  held  and  the  prizes  have 
been  won,  but  the  Rose  at  its  beat  has  been 
present  only  at  few  of  them,  and  then  in 
small  quantities.  I  do  not  propose  to  enter 
into  any  detail  as  to  the  causes,  but  the 
effect  has  been  there  for  all  to  see,  and  these 
remarks  are  only  made  as  a  preface  to  discussing 
the  newer  Roses  of  the  season  of  1909.  Speaking 
generally,  they  have  not  had  a  fair  chance  of 
showing  ua  what  they  are  capable  of. 

Well-established  favourites  like  White  Maman 
Cochet  have  been  conspicuous  by  their  absence 
almost  from  our  gardens,  and  one  hesitates, 
therefore,  very  much  before  one  condemns  any 
Rose  on  ita  1909  record  alone  ;  but  I  think  one 
may  pause  and  ask  whether  we  are  not  getting  too 
many  new  Roses.  I  know  the  reply  is  that  one 
need  not  trouble,  that  they  are  bound  to  find 
their  level ;  but  there  is  a  good  deal  of  unneces- 
sary disappointment  in  the  process,  and  it  is 
with  the  hope  of  preventing  some  of  it  that  these 
notes  are  written. 

The  original  notes  have  been  made  through 
the  entire  season  at  shows,  at  nurseries,  in  the 
gardens  of  leading  roaariana,  but  mostly  in  my 
own.  They  have  been  compared  with  similar 
notes  made  in  former  years,  and  the  reader  can 
take  it  that  juat  as  no  Rose  is  recommended 
without  fair  justification,  so  no  Rose  is  con- 
demned without  due  reason.  At  the  same  time, 
many  things  influence  Rose  growth  and  Rose 
flowers,  and  a  bad  grower  and  poor  flower  in  one 
district  aometimea,  but  not  often,  becomea  a 
good  grower  with  a  good  flower  in  another.  My 
own  garden  is  not  an  ideal  one  by  any  meana  for 
Rose  culture ;  it  is  too  exposed  and  windswept,  but 
it  ia  undoubtedly  healthy,  and  a  Rose  has  a  fair 
chance  to  show  what  it  ia  capable  of.  I  find  that 
the  eharacteriatics  it  produces  in  my  garden  are 
normal,  judging  from  what  I  see  of  it  elsewhere. 
As  to  what  are  and  what  are  not  new  Roses,  as  a 
general  rule  I  shall  not  go  further  back  than  the 
year  1906.  Roses  with  few  exceptions  get  into 
general  cultivation  in  about  three  years.  Occa- 
sionally a  good  one  is  missed,  but  as  a  rule  the 
trade  finds  them  out  in  two  years  and  the  public 
in  three  or  four.  Roaes,  then,  introduced  into 
commerce  in  1906,  1907  or  1908  cover  the  ground 
of  these  notes  ;  but  1  shall  not  refer  to  Roses 
that  are  too  well  known  of  the  first  of  the  three 
years  named,  and  may  possibly  refer  to  the  few 
Rosea  of  1909  that  I  have  been  able  to  grow  and 
flower  at  the  end  of  these  notes. 

I  have  always  written  of  the  newer  Rosea 
under  the  three  heads  of  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas,  and  I  propose  to  continue 
that  division  as  the  most  convenient,  and  will,  as 
far  as  possible,  keep  them  in  alphabetical  order. 
A  correspondent  writes  and  suggests  that  I 
should  put  them  in  order  of  merit,  but  that  is 
asking  rather  too  much.  The  first  half-dozen  or 
dozen  might  not  be  difiioult  to  place,  but  there 
ceases  to  be  any  distinction  after  that  number 
ia  passed  ;  besides,  who  can  place  garden  Roaea 
in  order  of  merit '!  At  any  rate,  I  for  one  do  not 
intend  to  try.  I  hope  theae  notes  will  continue 
week  by  week  until  they  are  completed,  so  that 
they  can  be  concluded  before  the  catalogues 
arrive  and  orders  are  given,  and  I  will  start  with 
the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  next  week. 

Purley.  Herbert  E.  Molyneux. 

(To  be  cortiinued.J 

ROSE    E  CARL  ATE. 
Will  this  brilliant  Rose  surpass  Richmond  and 
Liberty  for  massing  purposes ';     I  am  inclined  to 


think  it  will.  There  is  not  the  beautiful  form 
which  we  have  in  Liberty,  but  it  makes  up  for 
this  in  a  mudh  more  intense  scarlet  colouring 
and  there  ia  lesa  of  the  bluish  shade  in  the  older 
flowers.  It  appears  much  like  a  seedling  of 
Marquise  de  Salisbury.  Certainly  the  new- 
comer will  supplant  this  old  sort  in  course  of 
time.  I  have  before  me  as  I  write  some 
brilliant  clusters  of  Ecarlate,  which  compare 
favourably  with  Griias  an  Teplitz,  although 
devoid  of  the  exquisite  velvety  scarlet  which 
we  have  in  this  good  Rose.  Ecarlate  will  be 
aplendid  aa  an  edging  to  tall  pillars  of  Griiss  an 
Teplitz,  or,  if  this  latter  is  planted  as  a  hedge,  a 
row  of  Ecarlate  in  front  would  be  very  effective. 
I  saw  recently  a  splendid  hedge  of  Griiss  an 
Teplitz  in  the  beautiful  gardens  of  H.  Pearson, 
Esq.,  Brickendonbury,  Hertford.  The  clever 
gardener,  Mr.  Smith,  had  raised  all  his  planta 
from  cuttings,  and  planted  a  long  line  of  over 
300  yards  with  this  Rose,  each  plant  a  yard 
apart.  During  this  month  the  beauty  of  this 
hedge  will  be  great.  In  these  beautiful  gardens 
one  saw  what  skilful  planting  can  do  in  the 
matter  of  growth.  Here  were  beds  of  Mme. 
Ravary,  Prince  de  Bulgarie  and  Pharisaer,  only 
planted  some  two  seasons  ago,  rising  to  a 
height  of  3  feet  to  4  feet,  with  great,  thick 
growths  crowned  with  marvellous  clusters  of 
buds  that  will  be  a  picture  this  autumn.  Here 
also  was  an  instance  of  the  quick  effect  obtained 
by  planting  the  long-ahooted  pot-grown  planta  of 
various  rambler  Roaes,  such  as  Hiawatha  and 
Lady  Gay,  for  although  only  planted  two  years, 
they  were  covered  with  blooms  on  growths  fully 
12  feet  high.  P. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

GROWING    PEACHES    IN    A    SMALL 
GREENHOUSE. 

[/«  Reply  to  a  Correapoiuient  in  North 
Lancashire.  ] 

YOU  do  not  say  whether  you  wish  to 
makePeaoh-growing  or  flower-growing 
the  chief  feature  of  your  unheated 
greenhouse.  You  cannot  grow  them 
both  well  together.  I  presume  you 
mean  to  give  the  preference  to  the 
Peaches,  and  proceed  to  try  and  help  you  how  to 
go  about  the  business.  The  first  thing  to  take  in 
hand  must  be  the  border,  and  the  firat  esaential 
to  success  in  making  a  border  is  that  it  should 
be  effectively  drained.  In  your  part  of  the 
country  it  will  be  better  for  the  border  to  be 
inside  than  outside.  The  present  soil  ahould  be 
taken  away  to  the  depth  of  3  feet  and  to  a  width 
of  6  feet,  and,  of  course,  aa  long  as  the  houae  ia. 
After  fixing  the  drain-pipea  with  a  proper  outlet, 
place  over  the  whole  of  the  bottom  of  the  border, 
to  a  depth  of  6  inches,  a  layer  of  broken  bricks, 
ash  clinkers  or  stone,  in  order  to  secure  effective 
drainage  (ahould  your  subsoil  be  of  a  light, 
gravelly  nature,  through  which  water  percolates 
freely,  no  other  drainage  ia  neoeaaary).  On  the 
top  of  these  place  turves,  grass  side  downward, 
to  prevent  the  soil  choking  the  drainage. 

The  next  step  to  take  is  to  prepare  the  soil  for 
planting.  This  ahould  conaiat  of  the  following 
mixture  :  To  one  barrow-load  of  turfy  soil  add 
half  a  peck  of  old  mortar  or  plaster  rubble,  two 
quarts  of  quicklime  and  the  same  of  bone-duat ; 
mix  well  together  before  placing  in  the  border. 
The  quantity  required  will,  of  couree,  depend 
on  the  aize  of  the  border — the  space  should  be 
filled  to  the  level  of  the  surface  and  made  fairly 
firm  as  the  work  of  filling  in  proceeds.  The  end 
of  October  is  a  good  time  to  plant  the  young 
trees.  You  would  be  well  advised  to  get  the 
nuraeryman  who  supplies  the  trees  to  have  them 
properly  pruned,  root  and  branch,  ready  for 
planting.  The  trees  will  appear  much  smaller 
when  pruned,  but  you  must  not  mind  this,  as  it 


is  important  for  the  future  auccess  of  the  treea 
that  they  ahould  be  properly  pruned  at  the  time 
of  planting.  The  trees  should  be  planted  7  inches 
deep ;  this  will  allow  of  the  higher  roots  to  be 
covered  with  about  3  inchea  or  4  inches  of  soil. 
Make  the  hole  large  enough  for  the  roots  to  be 
extended  their  full  length,  and  be  careful  to 
place  the  aoil  with  the  hands  firmly  round  the 
roots.  If  there  ia  room  for  more  than  one  tree 
they  should  be  planted  at  least  9  feet  apart. 

Having  planted  the  trees,  the  next  thing  to  do 
will  be  to  provide  a  trellia  for  them  to  be  trained 
to.  I  am  presuming  that  your  greenhouse  ia 
what  is  commonly  understood  aa  a  lean-to.  The 
trees  should  receive  a  good  soaking  of  water  as 
soon  aa  planted,  and  will  afterwarda  require  but 
little  attention  until  growth  starts  in  spring. 
For  treatment  afterwarda,  consult  the  weekly 
calendar  of  aeasonable  work  or  write  to  the 
Editor  again.  The  best  and  most  satisfactory 
varieties  to  grow  are  ;  First  early,  Abec  ;  second. 
Royal  George  :  for  a  moderately  late  season, 
Barrington  is  hard  to  beat.  The  best  Nectarines 
are  :  First  early.  Lord  Napier  ;  Pineapple  and 
Elruge.  Owen  Thomas. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

THE    HARDY    LADY'S    SLIPPER 
ORCHIDS. 

THE  hardy  Cypripediums  are  all  beauti- 
ful plants  and  worthy  of  being  more 
extensively  grown  than  they  are  at 
the  present  time.  Given  suitable 
conditions  in  cool,  sheltered  spots  in 
the  rock  garden,  fernery  or  open 
woodland,  several  might  be  established  with 
little  trouble,  where  they  would  make  a  most 
attractive  feature  when  in  flower.  In  choosing 
a  situation  in  which  to  plant  any  of  theae  hardy 
Lady's  Slippers,  the  first  care  must  be  to  avoid 
places  exposed  to  winda  or  cold  draughta.  These 
are  fatal  to  their  well-being,  aa  is  also  a  close, 
heavy  aoil.  In  making  up  a  bed  for  these 
plants  the  original  soil  should  be  taken  out  to  a 
depth  of  about  1  foot.  Then  place  plenty  of 
broken  bricks  in  the  bottom  for  drainage  ;  over 
this  fill  in  with  a  mixture  of  rough  peat,  loam 
and  leaf-soil,  with  a  good  portion  of  sharp  sand. 
This  mixture  will  suit  most  of  the  different 
species,  exceptions  among  others  being  C. 
Calceolua  and  C.  macranthum.  The  two  latter 
species  require  a  more  loamj'  aoil,  with  the 
addition  of  aome  old  mortar  rubbish. 

The  best  time  for  planting  is  in  the  autumn 
as  soon  as  the  roots  can  be  procured.  In 
planting,  take  out  a  wide  hole  and  spread  out 
the  roots  in  a  horizontal  direction,  with  the 
crowns  2  inches  or  3  inches  below  the  surface  of 
the  ground.  Work  the  soil  well  in  between  the 
roots  and  preaa  the  whole  down  firmly,  taking 
care  to  avoid  injuring  the  crowna.  When 
eatablished  they  will  only  require  a  good  mulching 
occasionally  with  well-decayed  leaves. 

There  are  many  beautiful  apecies  in  cultiva- 
tion, but  for  general  purposes  the  following  will 
be  found  to  give  satisfaction :  C.  Calceolus 
(English  Lady's  Slipper)  is  the  most  handsome 
of  all  our  native  Orchids  and  often  reachea  a 
height  of  18  inches,  with  one  or  two  flowers  on 
each  stem.  These  flowers  have  yellow  pouches 
and  brownish  purple  sepals.  C.  macranthum,  a 
beautiful  Siberian  plant,  grows  about  12  inches 
high  and  bears  large,  rosy  purple  flowers,  one  on 
each  stem.  This,  with  the  first-named,  are 
lime-lovers,  and  there  is  also  a  natural  hybrid 
between  these  two  in  cultivation  (C.  ventricosum), 
which  is  quite  intermediate  in  character  between 
ita  two  parents.  Perhaps  the  finest  of  all  is  C. 
speetabile,  which  is  found  in  the  peat-bogs  of 
North  America.  It  grows  about  2  feet  high, 
with  stout,  leafy  stems  bearing  from  one  to 
three  large  white  flowers  flushed  with  pink.  This 
is  a  very  handsome  favourite,  and  will  grow  in 
moister  places  than  the  others  mentioned. 


September  11,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


445 


C.  pubesoens,  the  yellow  Lady's  Slipper,  is 
also  a  tall-growing,  beautiful  plant  from  the 
Northern  United  States  and  Canada  with  yellow 
flowers.     The  illustration  shows  a  plant  grown 


indifferent,  and,  therefore,  not  wanted.  There  is 
no  disputing  the  fact  that  we  have  already  several 
grand  varieties  in  this  group,  and  those  who  can- 
not bring  us  something  that  is  either  absolutely 


in  a  pan,  for  which  kind  of  culture  this  and  the  \  distinct  in  shade  or  vastly  superior  in  some  other 
others  are  well  adapted.  They  are  grown  in  important  attribute  might  just  as  well  keep  their 
cold,  shady  frames,  with  the  pots  plunged  to  flowers  at  home.  This  season  there  are  three 
their  rims  in  ashes.  C.  aeaule  is  an  interesting  ,  marked  for  special  notice,  and  they  are  Edrom 
plant  with  a  pair  of  broad  leaves  and  a  large  j  Beauty,  which  has  been  described  as  an  improved 
purplish  rose  flower,  the  pouch  of  which  is  split  j  Helen  Lewis ;  Charles  Foster,  which  is  so  dis- 
down  the  face.  C.  montanum  is  a  choice  little  tinetly  a  new  shade  that  no  one  knows  how  to 
plant  bearing  a  raceme  of  white-pouched  flowers  describe  it  in  such  a  manner  that  anyone  else  will 
on  stems  about  9  inches  high.     It  and  Cj_acaule  ;  understand  what  is  meant ;  ajid  Mereia,  which 


oome  from  North  America. 


SWEET  PEA  CHAT. 
New  Vaeietibs. — There  have  been  several  addi- 
tions to  the  so-called  yellow  group  during  the 
present  season,  but  none  of  them 
approaches  more  closely  to  the  real 
Simon  Pure  than  those  that  we 
have  had  for  a  year  or  two.  In 
James  Grieve  and  Clara  Curtis, 
the  latter  unassailable  for  exhibi- 
tion purposes,  we  have  the  best 
colour  up  to  date,  but  there  are 
still  rumours  of  the  Coreopsis 
yellow  being  a  thing  of  fact.  We 
will  all  enthusiastically  believe  it 
when  we  see  it.  Among  the 
American  novelties  Asta  Ohn  is 
certainly  one  of  the  most  promis- 
ing ;  it  belongs  to  the  already 
extensive  lavender  group  and  came 
quite  true  in  many  gardens.  The 
flowers  are  excellent  in  their 
Spencer  form,  and  are  of  fine  size 
and  substance.  The  plant  is  re- 
markably free-flowering,  and  the 
variety  is  bound  to  come  into 
great  popularity  during  the  forth- 
coming season.  In  somewhat  the 
same  style  but  differing  in  colour 
is  Tennant  Spencer,  which  is 
another  wonderfully  floriferous 
sort  that  will  be  welcome  both  for 
garden  decoration  and  for  exhibi- 
tion. 

In  the  flaked  Spencers  there  are 
at  least  two  which  will  be  specially 
welcome,  and  these  are  Mrs.  W.  J. 
Unwin  and  Amerioa  Spencer. 
Aurora  Spencer  is  an  exquisite 
colour  and  particularly  refined, 
but,  as  I  have  seen  it  and  had  it, 
rather  too  small  for  exhibition 
purposes.  Those  who  especially 
desire  a  variety  for  cutting  must 
not  overlook  it  if  flakes  are  appre- 
ciated, which  is  by  no  means  the 
case  in  all  gardens.  Mrs.  Unwin 
is  one  of  the  best  that  has  come 
from  Histon,  which  is  saying 
much,  and  will  probably  take 
rank  as  the  finest  red  or  rose  flake 
or  stripe  before  a  couple  more 
seasons  have  passed.  The  variety 
that  will  rival  it  is  America 
Spencer,  which  was  raised  by  Mr. 
T.  Stevenson,  who,  I  understand, 
has  parted  with  the  entire  stock 
to  Mr.  R.  Sydenham.  It  is  a 
magnificent  flower  as  far  as  size, 
substance  and  shape  are  concerned,  and  can- 
not fail  to  be  popular  for  showing.  Yankee, 
one  of  Messrs.  House  and  Son's  varieties,  is  close 
to  it,  but  perhaps  not  quite  so  lively  in  colour. 

A  crimson  that  is  well  worth  keeping  in  mind 
for  inclusion  in  the  collection  next  season  is  Mrs. 
Duncan,  which  was  shown  by  Messrs.  Stark  and 
Son.  The  flowers  are  large  and  the  colour  brilliant, 
and  as  far  as  one  could  judge  shows  little,  if  any, 
signs  of  burning  in  the  sun.  Will  there  ever  be 
an  end  of  the  pinks  ?  We  have  scores  already, 
and  still  they  come,  some  being  good  and,  there- 
fore, welcome,  while   others  are  either   bad  or 


W.  I,  I  the  floral  committee  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea 
Society  specially  commended  as  a  market  variety. 
The  first  of  this  trio  was  raised  by  Mr.  Alexander 
Malcolm  ;  it  is  a  bloom  of  exceptional  substance 
and  will  make  a  place  for  itself  in  the  near 
future.      The   second  comes   from    Mr.    Robert 


attracted  a  full  share  of  attention.  Mr.  W.  Deal's 
Colleen,  a  bicolor,  was  commended  by  the  floral 
committee  as  a  market  variety,  but  it  is  not  a 
Sweet  Pea  that  many  of  us  will  run  after  while 
we  have  Mrs.  Andrew  Ireland  to  grow  and 
admire.  Spencer. 


ONE   OF  THE  HARDY  LADY's  SLIPPER  ORCHIDS   (CYPRIPEDIUM   PUBESCENS). 


Bolton,  and  is  one  of  the  most  distinct  varieties 
of  the  year  ;  as  I  cannot  manufacture  a  descrip- 
tion of  my  own,  I  will  fall  back  on  that  attached 
to  it  by  Mr.  Charles  Foster  himself — a  shade  of 
pastel  pink.  Anyway,  it  is  a  splendid  variety  and 
will  be  very  welcome.  Mereia,  from  Messrs. 
Stark  and  Son,  may  be  commended  for  the  home, 
as  well  as  the  market  garden,  for  the  colour  is 
bright  pink  with  a  charming  suffusion  of  orange. 
Mr.  Breadmore  received  honour  from  the  floral 
committee  for  Dazzler,  which  is  an  excellent 
name,  for  the  colour  is  dazzlingly  brilliant ;  it 
was   one  of    the    best    sorts    at    Beading    and 


TRANSPLANTING  THE  CHRISTMAS 
ROSE. 
[/«  Meply  to  "A.  I.  L."] 
In  hardy  plant  gardening  there  is  no  plant  more 
frequently  mismanaged  or  more  generally  mis- 
understood than  the  Christmas  Rose.  And  I  am 
reminded  of  its  importance  and  the  seasonable- 
ness  of  the  subject  by  an  enquiry  sent  to  me  by 
the  Editor  from  the  above-named  correspondent, 
who,  with  commendable  brevity,  asks,  ' '  How 
and  when  is  the  best  time  for  moving  Christmas 
Rose  plants?"  As  to  "when  is 
the  best  time,"  the  answer  is  that 
September  is  assuredly  the  month 
of  months  for  doing  this  important 
work,  just  as  this  same  month 
stands  high  in  the  estimation  of 
those  who  plant  bulbs  and  desire 
the  "best "  results  from  the  same. 
Indeed,  while  there  is  nothing  of 
the  nature  of  a  bulb  in  the  root 
system  of  the  Christmas  Rose, 
its  periodic  root-production  is  so 
nearly  allied  to  that  of  many 
bulbous  plants  that  in  both  in- 
stances the  planting  should  be  done 
while  the  subject  is  in  its  most 
dormant  mood.  This  periodic 
root  production  in  the  Christmas 
Rose  is  the  one  thing  in  the  past 
that  hardy  plant  gardeners  in  the 
main  have  failed  to  realise,  or  even 
adequately  to  gauge  its  impor- 
tance, the  result  being  that  the 
plants  have  been  regarded  as 
"fastidious,"  "impatient  of  re- 
moval," and  so  forth  That  they 
are  none  of  these  things  we  know 
full  well,  though  they  may  be 
"impatient  of  removal,"  and  dis- 
play unmistakable  evidence  of  the 
fact  when  disturbed  at  an  unsea- 
sonable time. 

The  oft-repeated  instruction  of 
text-books  to  transplant  herba- 
ceous perennials  when  so  many 
inches  of  new  growth  have  been 
made  in  springtime  is,  in  the  case 
of  the  Christmas  Rose,  a  delusion 
and  a  fnare.  It  is  irrational,  too, 
and  the  plant  by  its  subsequent 
behaviour  resents  it  as  such.  The 
reason  of  it  all  is  clear  for  those 
who  have  eyes  to  see  and  in- 
telligence to  comprehend.  The 
Christmas  Rose  produces  but  two 
sets  of  roots  each  year,  the  main 
or  basal  roots  in  eaily  autumn  and 
the  lateral  or  fibrous  roots  in  early 
spring  with  the  coming  of  the  new 
leafage  ;  and  it  is  of  the  greatest 
importance  that  the  principal 
set  of  roots  should  be  pre- 
served intact  if  the  secondary 
set  of  root-fibres  are  to  exist  at 
all  or  to  exercise  their  functions. 
This  root-preservation  is  the  more  important  in 
the  case  before  us,  because  of  the  brittle  nature 
of  the  main  roots  and,  equally,  because,  when 
broken  or  mutilated,  they  frequently  decay  to 
the  base  of  the  plant,  and  are  not  only  rendered 
useless  to  the  plant  thereby,  but  preclude  the 
possibility  of  the  production  of  the  lateral  roots 
which,  in  the  natural  order  of  things,  follow  in 
spring.  Hence,  with  the  destruction  of  these 
roots  by  spring  planting,  the  subject  is  thrown 
upon  its  own  resources  for  many  months  for  its 
existence,  and  no  further  roots  being  possible  of 
production  to  sustain  life  and  vigour,  a  debilitated 


446 


THE    GARDEN. 


[September  11,  1909. 


condition  is  set  up,  which,  by  the  unthinking, 
has  been  translated  into  "impatienoe  of  removal." 

September  planting  of  the  Christmas  Rose, 
therefore,  resolves  itself  into  the  rational  and 
natural  performance  of  such  work,  because  it  is 
at  that  time  when  the  new  main  roots  may  be 
seen  issuing  from  the  shortly  formed  rhizome  or 
rootstook,  and  at  this  time  also  when  the  work 
of  lifting,  dividing  and  transplanting  may  be 
done  with  impunity. 

Our  correspondent  also  enquires  how  to  do  this 
work,  and  the  instructions  on  this  head  might 
well  be  prefaced  with  the  negative 
that  Christmas  Rose  plants  should 
never  be  transplanted  bodily  in 
large  specimens  ;  nothing  is  more 
fatal  to  success.  Attention  to 
this  and  September  planting  are 
the  chief  essentials  to  success,  and 
the  instruction  might  well  be  in 
large  type  in  every  gardening 
book  of  to-day.  The  best  way 
to  divide  a  clump  is  to  lay  it  on 
its  side,  take  two  small  hand- 
forks,  place  them  back  to  back, 
thrust  deeply  into  the  thick  part 
of  the  rootstoek,  and  by  wrench- 
ing outwardly  and  in  opposite 
directions  the  crowns  will  be 
severed  without  loss.  A  knife  is 
bad,  and  the  spade,  with  a  stal- 
wart jobbing  gardener  in  com- 
mand, may  quickly  make  mince- 
meat of  the  entire  lot.  Plants  of 
two  or  three  good  crowns  and  a 
couple  of  leaves  are  best  for 
planting  and  give  excellent 
results,  and  where  large  groups 
are  desired  early  the  ordinary 
methods  of  grouping  at  9  inches 
or  12  inches  apart  should  be 
indulged  in.  Many  years  ago  a 
gentleman  living  near  Manchester 
divided  his  plants  to  nearly  single 
crowns  every  two  or  three  years, 
and  certainly  no  one  has  ever 
produced  finer  flowers  or  healthier 
examples,  while  the  adoption  of 
the  method  for  years  is,  perhaps, 
the  most  complete  answer  to 
those  who  talk  about  fastidious- 
ness and  impatience  of  removal. 
The  best  proof  of  health  in 
these  plants  is  a  vigorous  tuft 
of  evergreen  leafage,  and  this 
assured,  all  else  will  follow  as 
the  natural  outcome  of  such  a 
development. 

The  soil  cannot  be  too  deeply 
or  too  well  prepared,  as  the 
plants  send  down  their  main 
roots  to  a  depth  of  3  feet  or 
more.  Old  mortar  or  sandstone 
chippings  should  be  added  freely 
to  all  but  the  lightest  soils,  and 
a  good  drainage  should  beensured. 
Shade,  i.e.,  partial  shade,  as 
opposed  to  that  from  a  dwelling 
\\hich  shuts  out  all  sun  and 
warmth,  is  good,  and  equally  so  a 
spot  removed  from  cold  and 
biting  winds.  These,  then,  are 
the  essentials  which  make  for 
complete  success  in  the  Christmas 


typical    Christmas 
Helleborus  niger. 


Rose, 


which    is    known   as 
E.  H.  Jenkins. 


Hampton  Hill,  Middlesex. 


CAMASSIA  LEICHTLINI[. 
The  Camassias,  which  are  hardy  North  American 
plants,  are  ornamental  subjects  for  the  border, 
and  are  particularly  valuable  for  the  wild  garden, 
for  they  associate  well  with  the  herbage  and 
hold  their  own  against  the  natural  vegeta- 
tion.     The  plant  figured  in  the  accompanying 


appearing  as  if  frosted.  Atrocierulea  is  a  dark 
blue  variety  with  broad-petalled,  star-like  flowers 
of  great  size,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the 
Camassias,  being  stouter  and  taller  than  the  type. 
Other  Camassias  are  C.  esculenta,  styled  by  the 
Indians,  who  eat  the  roots,  Quamash.  It  is 
18  inches  in  height,  and  bears  from  twenty  to 
thirty  purple-blue  flowers  each  1  inch  across. 
It  is  useful  for  massing  in  the  wild  garden. 
There  is  also  a  white  form.  C.  Cusickii  attains 
a  height  of  4  feet,  and  the  upper  2  feet  of  the 
spike  is  densely  clothed  with  upwards  of 
100  lavender  blue  flowers  with 
yellow  anthers.  The  individual 
blossoms  are  star-like  and  1  inch 
in  diameter,  and  are  closely 
packed  together.  The  leaves 
are  glaucous,  2  feet  in  length 
and  2  inches  in  breadth.  It  is 
the  earliest  of  its  race  to  flower 
and  is  sometimes  injured  by 
late  frosts.  C.  Fraseri  is  a  com- 
paratively slender  plant  18  inches 
in  height,  bearing  pale  porcelain 
blue  flowers  less  than  1  inch 
across.  C.  montanum  is  inter- 
mediate between  C.  esculenta 
and  C.  Leichtlinii,  and  produces 
dense  spikes  bearing  about  fifty 
flowers,  each  1  inch  across,  with 
lanceolate  petals.  The  anthers 
are  very  large,  golden  yellow  in 
colour  and  set  off  the  blue  of 
the  flowers.  It  is  the  latest  ot 
the  race  to  bloom.  C.  Brownii 
grows  3  feet  in  height  and  bears 
lavender  blue  flowers  about 
2  inches  across,  which  are  prettily 
shot  with  metallic  tints. 

The  culture  of  the  Camassias  is 
very  simple,  as  they  will  grow 
anywhere  in  good  soil  and  need 
a  minimum  of  attention.  They 
should  be  planted  in  colonies,  as 
a  single  specimen  has  but  a  poor 
efl'eot.  They  appear  to  excellent 
advantage  when  associated  with 
Eremuri.  Camassias  do  not  pro- 
duce many  offsets,  so  that 
propagation  by  that  means  is  a 
slow  business,  but  they  may  be 
easily  raised  by  the  thousand 
from  seed,  and  the  seedlings  will 
reach  the  flowering  stage  in  their 
fourth  or  fifth  year. 

W.   FiTZHERBEKT. 

South  Devon. 


COLOURED 
PLATE. 

PLATE       1882. 


TULIPS. 


CAMASSIA    LEICHTLINII   IN   A  .SOUTH     nEVON'  GARDEN. 


1 


-AGE 
IN. 


NOTES    ON 
The    Coming- of - 
Dakwi 

N  almost  all  classes  of  life, 
except  possibly  among  the 
very  poorest,  the  day  when 
a  young  man  or  a  young 
woman  attains  the  age  of 
twenty-one  years  is  marked 
Rose,  than  which  our  gardens  contain  no  more  ;  illustration  is  the  ivory  white  form  of  Camassia  in  some  special  way.  It  would  ill  become  me 
welcome  or  precious  flowers  in  winter-time  and  !  Leichtlinii,  which  has  an  imposing  effect  in  the    with  my  great  love  for  the  glorious  race  of  Tulips 


not  to  greet,  on  the  first  opportunity  that  I 
have,  the  coming-of-age  of  one  of  the  youngest 
members  of  this  ancient  family  with  my  heartiest 
congratulations  and  good  wibhes  for  what  I  feel 

assured   will   be   a   long  and  useful   life   in    our 

The  styles  gardens  ;  and  I  would  at  the  same  time  suggest 
The  best  varieties  to  grow  are~maximus,  major  ,  and  stamens  project  at  angles  from  the  flowers,  that  it  would  only  be  in  accord  with  the 
or  Bath   variety,  and  juverna,  also  known   as  I  and  add  greatly  to  their  effect.  i  earliest-known     traditions    of    this     flower     of 

angustifolius,  the  trio  yielding  a  supply  of  '  Camassia  Leichtlinii  is  very  variable,  and  there  :  the  East  if  we  planted  it  in  increased  numbers 
blossoms  from  November  to  .January  inclusive  !  are  several  forms.  One  named  alba  is  pure  :  in  our  beds  and  borders  to  mark  this  festal 
•"   *"""    —J—   given.     AH   are   varieties  of  the   white  and   a    magnificent  plant,    the    blossoms   occasion. 


none   more    hardy    or    enduring   when    rightly 
inderstood. 

Lifting  the  plants  and  forcing  in  heat  for 
winter  work  is  one  of  the  best  ways  of  destroying 
valuable  stock,  and  plants  required  for  this 
purpose  should  be  grown  in  large  pots  or  tubs. 


border.  The  leaves  are  about  !a]  foot  in  length, 
and  the  bold  spikes,  i  feet  in  height,  carry 
nearly  100  flowers  about  2  inches  across  with 
evenly  disposed  lanceolate  petals.  The  upper 
2  feet  of  the  spike  is  covered  with  blossoms 
arranged  in  a  light,  graceful  manner. 


the    order 


September  U,  1909. J 


THE    GARDEN 


447 


Twenty-one  years  ago,  in  1889,  the  great  firm 
of  Krelage  of  Haarlem  took  the  floral  world  by 
storm  in  cataloguing  for  the  first  time  Darwin 
Tulips.  They  are  a  magnificent,  strong-growing 
race  of  breeders,  distinguished  by  their  striking 
colours  and  large,  handsome  flowers.  No  one 
knows  exactly  where  they  came  from.  At  a 
Horticultural  Club  dinner  last  year,  when  the 
Tulip  was  the  subject  for  the  after-dinner  dis- 
cussion, Mr.  Ernest  Krelage,  who  was  present  as 
a  distinguished  visitor,  was  asked  how  his  firm 
came  by  them.  "  It  is  sufficient,"  he  said, 
"  that  we  have  them."  Although  my  historical 
instinct  would  like  to  have  been  satisfied  on  this 
point,  on  more  mature  consideration  I  am  not  at 
all  sorry  that  the  birth  of  this  noble  scion  of  the 
great  Tulip  race  should  be  shrouded  in  mystery. 
The  whole  family  is  mysterious.  Their  traditions 
are  mysterious.  We  do  not  know  how  the  Turks 
came  to  have  those  floral  treasures  in  their 
gardens  that  Busbecquius  saw  for  the  first  time 
in  1554.  We  cannot  say  if  the  ' '  breaking  "  of 
a  flower  means  disease  or  full-grown  maturity. 
We  are  puzzled  to  explain  how  in  some  well- 
known  and  carefully  searched  districts  in  Savoy 
and  round  Florence  in  Italy  a  new  stranger  will 
suddenly  appear  and  then  just  as  suddenly 
disappear.  Neither  Mr.  Bentley  nor  Mr. 
Needham,  with  all  their  years  of  practice,  can 
guarantee  that  the  same  Sir  Joseph  Paxton  bulb 
will  next  year  throw  as  correct  markings  as  it 
did  this.     There  is  mystery  everywhere. 

The  appearance  of  the  coloured  plate  in 
to-day's  issue  of  The  Garden,  which  has  been 
so  happily  timed  to  appear  at  this  planting 
season  by  the  Editor,  enables  me  not  only  to 
offer  my  small  tribute  of  words  and  thoughts  on 
this  interesting  anniversary,  but  it  also  calls 
attention  to  the  fact  that  this  late-born  son  is, 
in  another  characteristic,  a  true  child  of  the 
East.  His  gorgeous  clothing,  as  we  see  the 
great  waving  colour  masses  in  the  Tulip  fields 
of  Holland,  England  or  Ireland,  is  truly  Oriental 
in  its  barbaric,  unrelieved  splendour.  Acres  of 
scarlet,  crimson,  and  pink,  with  dashes  of  the 
deepest  purple  and  the  palest  blush,  are  indeed 
a  fine  and  fascinating  sight.  I  have  seen  them 
in  Holland,  and  it  is  my  own  fault  that  I  have 
not  seen  them  both  at  Wisbech  and  at  Rush,  near 
Dublin,  as  well.  Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath  and  Messrs. 
Hogg  and  Robertson  have  given  me  the  kindest 
of  invitations  to  see  their  brilliant  shows,  an 
invitation  which  I  feel  I  am  right  in  saying  they 
would  readily  extend  to  any  Tulip-lover  who 
wished  to  come. 

The  particular  flowers  from  which  the  paint- 
ing for  the  coloured  plate  was  made  were  grown 
by  Messrs.  R.  H.  Bath  of  Wisbech.  Whistler 
stands  for  vividness,  Edmee  for  harmony,  Clara 
Butt  for  beauty  and  Bleu  Amiable  for  quietness. 
The  vivid  red  of  Whistler  reminds  me  of  Isis, 
Europe,  Mr.  Farnoombe  Sanders,  Pride  of 
Haarlem  and  van  Poortvlist ;  and  my  thoughts 
wander  to  the  richer,  deeper  colouring  of 
Millet,  Henner  and  Donders,  and  then  on  to  the 
rich  deep  purple  of  Grand  Monarque  and  Velvet 
King  and  to  the  almost  black  Zulu  and  La  Tulipe 
Noire.  With  the  pale-edged  Edmee  I  associate 
such  varieties  as  Mme.  Krelage,  Baron  Tonnage, 
Suzon  and  Loveliness,  beautiful  flowers  all,  but 
not  more  beautiful  or  harmonious  than  Edmee. 

In  Clara  Butt  we  have  a  variety  that  figures 
in  every  catalogue.  No  one  would  dream  of 
leaving  it  out.  "Exquisite."  "A  universal 
favourite."  "Of  the  highest  refinement  in 
beauty  and  colouring."  "The  most  handsome 
of  all  the  Darwin  Tulips."  "  Perfectly  shaped." 
These  are  the  descriptions  that  I  find  in  the 
first  five  lists  that  I  happen  to  take  up.  Need 
I  say  more  '>. 

Bleu  Amiable  has,  in  common  with  all  the 
pale  mauves,  lilacs  and  heliotropes,  something 
very  restful  about  it.  The  contrast  between  the 
roses,  reds  and  pinks  and  the  quiet  Bleu 
Amiable,  Ergustes,  Rev.  H.  Ewbanks  and 
Mauve  Clairs  is  just  what  is  wanted  for  the  one 
typo  to  set  the  other  off.     A   garden  without 


either  loses  much.  There  are,  of  course,  other 
shades  than  those  already  mentioned.  There  is 
the  lovely  Margaret  with  its  sea-shell  pink 
interior,  the  almost  white  White  Queen  and  the 
sad  deep  rosy  mauve  Remembrance.  Let  us 
include  them  all,  and  if  we  want  size,  let  us  not 
forget  the  early  old  rose-coloured  Nauticus  and 
the  huge  new  Prince  of  the  Netherlands.  With- 
out all  these  some  of  the  best  of  the  Darwins 
will  be  wanting.  Joseph  Jacob. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS, 


OLEARIA    NITIDA. 

iHIS  species  of  Olearia  was  intro- 
duced iato  this  country  from  New 
Zealand  in  1886.  Though  an  ex- 
tremely handsome  shrub,  it  is, 
curiously  enough,  rarely  met  with  in 
gardens  at  the  present  time,  although 
such  species  as  0.  Haastii,  0.  stellulata  (often 
misnamed  0.   Gunnii,  which  is  quite  a  distinct 


T 


silvery  white  on  the  reverse.  The  flowers  were 
this  year  borne  in  such  profusion  on  the  plant 
in  question  that  when  the  withered  bloom- 
clusters  were  out  off  they  filled  three  bushel 
baskets,  showing  the  enormous  number  of 
blossoms  that  the  shrub  carried. 
South  Devon.  W.  Fitzherbert. 


THE 


SCARLET-FEUITED  ELDER- 
BERRY. 

Wheij  bearing  a  good  crop  the  Scarlet-fruited 
Elderberry  (Sambucus  raoemosa)  forms  a  very 
attractive  feature  in  park,  garden  or  woodland, 
its  clusters  of  small  scarlet  berries  being  con- 
spicuous from  a  considerable  distance.  As  the 
name  implies,  the  inflorescences  are  in  racemes, 
not  in  flattened  heads  as  in  the  common  S. 
nigra  ;  they  are,  however,  borne  quite  as  freely, 
and  in  most  places  the  plant  is  no  more  difficult 
to  cultivate  than  the  native  species.  S.  racemosa 
is  widely  distributed  through  the  Northern 
Hemisphere,  and  is  met  with  as  a  low-growing 
shrub  or  as  a  bush  12  feet  or  more  in  height  with 
a   considerable   spread.     It  blossoms  early,  and 


A   FREB-rLOWIBINO   AND   RARE   HARDY  SHKUB   (OLEARIA   NITIDA), 


species)  and  0.  macrodonta  are  fairly  common. 
In  its  native  country  0.  nitida  is  said  to  reach 
the  size  of  a  small  tree  and  to  grow  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  about  4,000  feet.  It  is,  therefore,  probablj' 
as  hardy  as  0.  Haastii,  which  is  found  at  the  same 
altitude,  and  hardier  than  0.  stellulata ;  but  as 
the  number  of  plants  of  this  species  grown 
in  the  open  in  this  country  is  decidedly  limited, 
this  is,  at  the  present,  rather  a  matter  of  con- 
jecture. 

The  specimen  shown  in  the  accompanying 
illustration  is  just  6  feet  in  height,  with  a  rather 
greater  branch-spread,  and  it  has  several  times 
been  exposed  to  12*  of  frost ;  but,  although 
totally  unprotected,  not  a  leaf  or  shoot  has  been 
injured.  It  is  the  largest  example  known  to  me 
in  the  South- West.  As  will  be  seen  from  the 
illustration,  it  is  a  very  attractive  object  when 
in  full  bloom.  The  small,  white.  Hawthorn-like 
blossoms  are  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter  and 
are  borne  so  freely  on  loose,  branching  racemes 
that,  as  shown  in  the  illustration,  they  entirely 
hide  the  foliage.  The  leaves  are  leathery  in 
texture,  3  inches  in  length  and  2  inches  in 
breadth,  deep  green  on  the  upper  surface  and 


the  fruits  ripen  during  July  and  early  August. 
Beautiful,  however,  as  a  well-fruited  bush  of 
the  type  is,  the  species  is  less  widely  cultivated 
than  the  numerous  varieties,  some  of  which  are 
conspicuous  by  reason  of  their  finely  cut  leaves 
and  rich  golden  colouring.  The  best  of  these  are 
sometimes  used  as  summer  bedding  plants  in 
mixed  beds  planted  for  colour  effect.  They  are 
also  used  for  specimen  beds  on  lawns  and  for 
groups  in  shrubberies. 

Two  of  the  best  of  the  golden-leaved  varieties 
are  foliis  aureis  and  plumosa  aurea,  while  pretty 
green-leaved  varieties  are  laciniata,  plumosa, 
serratifolia  and  tenuifolia.  All  these  are  dis- 
tinguished by  means  of  their  finely  out  leaves. 
They  thrive  best  in  a  rather  shaded  position  in 
cool  soil,  and  are  not  usually  a  success  if  planted 
in  hot,  sandy  ground.  Cuttings  of  these 
varieties  may  be  rooted,  and  those  who  have  not 
tried  them  for  the  purposes  previously  men- 
tioned would  do  well  to  take  them  in  hand. 
The  type  may  be  used  as  an  undergrowth  for  thin 
woods  or  for  massing  in  the  wild  garden,  though 
the  berries  are  eaten  greedily  by  birds  as  soon  as 
they  are  ripe.  ^- 


448 


THE    GARDEN. 


[September  11,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN     WORK     WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN. —  Privet  and 
hedges  of  a  similar  kind,  where  the 
growth  is  young  and  dense,  must  be 
kept  closely  out.  The  final  cutting 
of  such  hedges  must  be  r  made  in 
October  ;  but  in  the  meaBtime  it  is 
advisable  to  trim  the  fences  now  so  as  to  keep 
them   as  perfect  as  possible.     Very  little   new 


I.  — THE  SHOOT  ON  THE  LEFT  IS  A  HALF- 
RIPENED  ONE  OF  LAURUSTINUS  SUITABLE 
FOR  MAKING  INTO  A  CUTTING,  AND  ON 
THE  RIGHT  IS  SHOWN  A  CUTTING  PRE- 
PARED   READY    FOR   PLANTING. 

growth  will  be  made  after  the  end  of  September, 
and  if  all  such  be  out  away  in  the  following 
month  there  will  be  none  left  for  the  frosts  to 
kill  and  thus  spoil  the  appearance  of  the  hedge  in 
winter-time.  The  cutting  of  evergreen  shrubs 
should  be  done  with  a  knife,  and  not  with 
shears,  as  it  is  wrong  to  sever  the  large 
leaves  as  well  as  the  stems  ;  but  at  this  season 
of  the  year  cut  such  shrubs  as  little  as  possible, 
only  where  it  is  absolutely  necessary.  If  much 
new  growth  was  made  now  as  a  result  of  cutting 
back  branches,  the  frosts  would  probably  badly 
damage  it.  All  cuttings  already  inserted  of 
bedding-out  plants  should  be  carefully  examinud, 
and  if  some  have  failed  to  strike,  the  losses 
must  be  made  good  forthwith.  Every  bo.x  and 
flower-pot  containing  cuttings  must  be  placed 
under  the  protection  of  frame-lights  now,  and  all 
fresh  cuttings  inserted,  too.  Those  of  the  tenderer 
kinds,  such  as  Iresines,  Coleuses,  Alternantheras 
and  Mesembryanthemums,  must  be  plunged  in  a 
gentle  hot-bed  at  this  season,  in  order  to  induce 
quick  root-action. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Another  batch  of  Endive 
plants  must  be  lifted  very  carefully  this  week 
and  forthwith  planted  in  a  cool,  dry  frame. 
Some  of  the  outer  leaves  may  be  removed,  but  all 
others  must  be  preserved  and  not  damaged  in 
any  way.  When  planted  in  the  frame,  give 
water  carefully  so  as  not  to  moisten  the  leaves, 
ventilate  freely,  and  at  the  end  of  a  week  or  so 
plaee  some  mats  on  the  frame.  On  a  warm 
border  a  few  Radish  seeds  may  be  sown  thinly 
broadcast.  Wood's  Early  Frame  is  a  good 
variety,  as  it  attains  to  a  large  size  quickly  and 
is  very  tender.  Onions  that  are  ripe  must  be 
harvested  without  delay.  To  tell  when  the 
bulbs  are  ripe  the  cultivator  should  gently  pull 
one  over  sideways  ;  if  it  is  ready  for  gathering 
it  will  part  from  the  soil  very  freely,  but  if  it 
does  not  and  requires  force  to  pull  it  up,  then 
leave  the  crop  for  a  short  time.  The  bulbs  must 
be  pulled  on  a  fine  day  and  partially  dried  on 


the  ground  ;  but  if  there  is  a  likelihood  of  rain, 
spread  out  the  Onions  thinly  on  mats  in  an 
open  shed  prior  to  storing  them  for  the 
winter.  A  few  seeds  of  winter  Spinach  may 
now  be  sown.  This  plant  will  do  well  under 
fruit  trees,  but  a  naturally  dry  soil  on  a  warm 
border  is  most  suitable  for  it.  Seeds  of  Mustard 
and  Cress  must  be  sown  in  boxes  at  this  season 
and  placed  in  frames. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  gathering  and  storing  of 
Apples  and  Pears  are  very  important  matters. 
These  fruits,  both  for  dessert  and  cooking 
purposes,  are  very  valuable,  and  as  their  keeping 
in  a  sound  condition  for  a  long  time  depends,  to 
a  great  extent,  on  the  way  in  which  they  are 
gathered  and  stored,  much  attention  must  be 
given  to  thera.  Do  not  bruise  the  fruits,  but 
plaee  each  one  carefully  in  shallow  baskets  and 
with  equal  care  put  them  in  single  layers  on  dry 
shelves  in  cool,  dry,  well-ventilated  rooms.  The 
Pears  should  be  put  in  the  warmest  part  and 
the  Apples  in  the  coolest.  Fallen  specimens 
must  be  placed  by  themselves  and  not  with  the 
sound  ones.  It  will  be  necessary  to  once  more 
examine  the  Strawberry  plants  and  cut  off  any 
late  runners  found  growing  on  them. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames.  — The  temperatures  in 
the  greenhouse  must  now  range  as  follows  :  Day, 
55°  to  65°  ;  night,  50°  to  55°.  There  will  be 
no  difficulty  in  the  matter  where  there  is 
heating  apparatus.  Climbers  must  be  untied, 
surplus  shoots  cut  out,  the  woodwork  washed 
and  also  the  glass  where  soiled,  before  the 
branches  are  tied  up  again.  Make  the  latter  clean 
and  their  surroundings  also.  Plants  which  are 
suitable  for  growing  in  frames  during  the  summer 
months  must  now  be  taken  to  the  greenhouse 
before  their  lower  leaves  turn  yellow.  The 
frames  must  not  be  allowed  to  remain  empty, 
but  be  filled  with  hardier  subjects.  B. 


INCREASING    THE    LAURUSTINUS    AND 
THE  OLEARIA. 

The  Laurustinus  is  classified  by  the  botanist 
under  the  name  of  Viburnum,  in  which  family  of 
plants  is  also  included  the  Guelder  Rose  or 
Snowball  Bush.  The  proper  name  of  the  plant 
under  notice  is  Viburnum  Tinus.  It  is  a  very 
old  garden  flowering  shrub  and  is  evergreen. 
Like  many  other  of  our  beautiful  so-called  hardy 
flowering  shrubs,  it  sufi'ers  somewhat  in  the 
extremely  cold  and  hard  weather  of  our  British 
winter,  but,  generally  speaking,  in  a  normal 
season,  especially  in  sheltered  situations,  it  gives 
a  good  account  of  itself.  The  plant  will  succeed 
very  well  in  any  ordinary  garden  soil,  but  its 
prospects  are  improved  when  planted  in  well- 
drained  borders  made  up  largely  of  sandy  loam. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Laurustinus. 
Besides  the  common  one  already  mentioned,  there 
is  V.  Tinus  luoidum,  which  may  be  regarded  as 
one  of  the  very  best.  The  flower-clusters  of  this 
variety  are  larger  and  whiter  than  the  type,  and 
on  this  account  it  is  better  liked  for  forcing 
purposes.  V.  Froebelii  and  others  are  more  or 
less  distinct  from  the  common  form,  but  they 
are  all  beautiful  as  evergreen  flowering  plants. 

The  Laurustinus  is  increased  by  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  shoots  taken  at  the  end  of  August 
and  throughout  September  and  inserted  in  pots 
containing  sandy  soil.  For  small  growers  this 
method  answers  very  well,  especially  if  a  hand- 
light  or  bell-glass  be  utilised  for  covering  them 
to  assist  the  rooting  process. 

Fig.  1  represents  on  the  left  a  half-ripened 
shoot  of  the  Laurustinus  that  should  make  a 
capital    cutting.      On  the    right    of    the    same 


illustration  a  cutting  properly  prepared  is  shown. 
In  this  case,  it  will  be  observed,  the  lower  leaves 
have  been  detached  with  care  and  the  stem  of  the 
shoot  cut  through  immediately  below  a  joint,  as 
it  is  from  the  latter  that  the  roots  are  emitted. 
The  cuttings  as  prepared  are  then  inserted  half 
their  length  in  sandy  soil  in  pote,  and  special 
care  taken  to  see  that  the  soil  is  pressed  firmly 
at  the  base  of  each  cutting  before  being  satisfied 
that  this  apparently  simple  operation  is  properly 
done.  When  this  operation  is  completed  the 
pot  of  cuttings  should  be  represented  as  shown  in 
Fig.  2.  The  cuttings  should  be  watered  in  with 
the  aid  of  a  fine-rosed  can  and  be  subsequently 
covered  with  a  bell-glass. 

When  propagated  in  a  cold  frame,  make  the 
bed  of  sandy  soil  quite  firm  :  then  proceed  to 
insert  the  cuttings  about  3  inches  apart  and  in 
rows  3  inches  to  4  inches  asunder.  Shade  from 
bright  sunshine  and  maintain  the  soil  in  a  condi- 
tion that  is  just  moist,  not  saturated  with  water. 
Cuttings  may  be  rooted  in  beds  outdoors  in 
October  ;  but  there  is  an  element  of  risk  in  this 
procedure.  The  growths  may  also  be  layered 
in  October  or  a  month  earlier. 

The  Daisy  Bush,  or  Olearia,  is  an  increasingly 
popular  flowering  shrub.  I'here  are  several 
species  that  are  mostly  evergreen  and  are  quite 
hardy.  The  genus  is  a  near  relation  to  the  Aster, 
so  well  known  to  most  readers.  They  are  useful 
and  handsome  shrubs  of  easy  culture,  possess  a 
good  habit  and  are  extremely  free  flowering. 
Olearia  Haastii  is  perhaps  the  most  valuable  of 
the  series,  on  account  of  its  hardiness  and  its 
distinct  beauty.  This  plant  comes  into  flower 
in  late  August  and  flowers  quite  freely  in  perfec- 
tion, when  other  shrubs  are  flowerless,  for  several 
weeks.  In  appearance  this  Olearia  is  not  unlike 
a  Box  plant,  the  leaves  being  oval,  leathery, 
shining  green  above  and  hoary  underneath. 
This  Daisy  Tree  is  a  native  of  New  Zealand  and 
grows  2  feet  to  4  feet  high,  forming  a  compact 
bush  with  small  Aster-like  flowers  that  are  borne 
in  profusion.  The  Olearias  are  regarded  chiefly  as 
Australian  and  New  Zealand  shrubs,  where  they 


2.— CUTTINGS  OF  LAURUSTINUS  PLANTED  IN  A 
POT.  THEY  MAY'  ALSO  BE  PLANTED  IN  A 
COLD  FRAME. 

are  found  at  high  altitudes.  Other  good  species 
are  0.  stellulata  and  0.  macrodonta.  These  latter 
should  be  given  a  warm  and  sheltered  quarter  of 
the  garden,  as  they  are  not  quite  hardy. 

The  Olearias  are  not  difficult  to  increase. 
Propagate  by  cuttings  of  firm  young  shoots  some 
2  inches  to  3  inches  long  ;  and  these  pieces  may 
be  obtained  in  large  numbers  from  a  well-grown 
bush.  On  the  left  of  Fig.  3  a  typical  shoot  of 
0.  Haastii  is  shown.  Note  its  sturdy  character 
and  its  Box-like  leaves  of  oval  form.     To  prepare 


September  11,  1909.] 


THE    GAUDEN. 


449 


3. — SHOOTS  OF  OLEAKIA.  THAT  ON  THE  LEFT 
IS  AS  TAKEN  FROM  THE  PLANT,  AND  ON 
THE  BIGHT  THE  SHOOT  IS  PREPARED 
READY  FOR  PLANTING. 

such  shoots  as  cuttings,  quite  half  of  the  lower 
leaves  should  be  removed,  the  stem  out  through 
just  below  a  joint,  and  the  cutting  be  completed 
and  ready  for  insertion  as  represented  on  the 
right  of  this  same  picture.  When  detached 
with  a  heel  it  is  unnecessary  to  cut  through  the 
stem  of  the  cutting. 

A  cold  frame  is  an  ideal  place  in  which  to  root 
the  Olearia.  Here  the  cuttings  should  be 
inserted  in  sandy  soil  in  September,  dibbling 
them  in  firmly  half  their  length  in  rows,  observing 
a  distance  of  about  2  inches  to  3  inches  between 
the  cuttings  and  a  similar  distance  between  the 
rows.  Arrange  the  cuttings  in  the  rows  so  that 
they  alternate.  Water  in  and  keep  fairly  close 
during  the  rooting  process,  and  shade  the 
cuttings  from  bright  sunshine.  When  rooted 
admit  air  freely,  ultimately  removing  the  frame- 
light  altogether.  The  cuttings  may  be  rooted 
in  pots  if  more  convenient,  covering  these  with 
a  hand-light,  &c.  Plunge  the  pots  in  cinder- 
ashes  to  keep  the  soil  moist  during  propagation. 
The  cold  greenhouse  may  be  utilised  for  this 
purpose.  The  Olearia  may  also  be  raised  by 
seeds,  sowing  these  in  pots  or  in  the  cold  frams 
in  autumn  or  spring.  D.  B.  C. 

POTTING  ARUM  LILIES. 
The  Arum  Lily  is  known  also  as  Calla  iethiopica 
and  Richardia  africana.  It  is  a  noble-looking 
plant,  extremely  useful  for  growing  in  green- 
houses and  conservatories  during  the  winter  and 
spring  months.  Some  cultivators  allow  the 
plants  to  rest  in  their  pots  during  the  summer- 
time and  then  repot  them  as  new  growth  com- 
mences ;  others  put  out  the  plants  in  the  open 
border  and  encourage  growth  throughout  the 
summer.  In  the  latter  ease  it  is  necessary  to 
lift  and  pot  the  plants  before  frosts  come.  It  is 
not  a  wise  plan,  however,  to  put  off  the  lifting 
until  very  late  in  the  season,  as  these  plants 
always  do  best  when  they  can  be  left  on  the 
north  or  north-west  side  of  a  wall  or  fence  for 
several  weeks  after  they  are  potted  and  prior 
to  their  being  placed  under  glass.  So  treated, 
the  plants  get  well  established  in  the  pots  and 
make  a  very  strong,  steady  growth  at  the  same 
time.  Close  confinement  under  glass  immediately 
the  plants  are  lifted  and  potted  causes  a  weaker 
growth  and  is  highly  prejudicial  to  their 
flowering  condition  afterwards.  The  plants 
must  not  be  lifted  direct  from  the  ground.  A 
week  befere  this  is  done    the  cultivator  must 


drive  in  the  spade  straight  down,  about  1  foot 
from  the  leaf -stems  and  all  round  the  specimens, 
in  order  to  loosen  the  roots  in  the  soil.  At  the 
end  of  a  week  the  plants  may  be  finally  lifted 
and  removed  to  a  cool  shed.  It  will  not  be 
possible  to  retain  all  the  garden  soil  attached  to 
the  roots,  nor  is  it  desirable  to  do  so.  A  good 
compost  must  be  prepared  for  potting  the  plants 
in  ;  but  the  mode  of  lifting  recommended  will 
assist  greatly  in  preserving  the  roots,  a  very 
important  matter.  Provide  a  rich  compost — 
fibrous  loam  two-thirds,  leaf-soil  and  rotted 
manure  one-third,  and  a  peck  of  sand  or  washed 
grit  to  two  bushels  of  the  above.  The  pots 
should  be  just  large  enough  to  contain  ample 
drainage  material,  the  roots  and  a  nice  quantity 
of  the  compost.  They  should  be  well  filled 
with  new  roots  before  Christmas  ;  then  a  little 
feeding  will  be  beneficial,  but  the  feeding  of  the 
plants  prior  to  the  flush  of  flowers  at  Easter- 
time  will  be  still  more  beneficial. 


HINTS  ON  WATERING  CUTTINGS. 
Cuttings  of  bedding-out  plants  must  be  very 
carefully  watered  during  the  weeks  immediately 
following  their  insertion.  Although  cuttings 
of  such  plants  as  Heliotrope,  Alternanthera, 
Fuchsias,  Ageratum  and  Lobelia  are  greatly 
benefited  by  occasional  light  syringings,  those 
of  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  Gazanias  and  Musk,  if 
treated  similarly,  would  damp  oif.  The  best  way 
to  supply  the  needful  moisture  to  the  latter  is 
to  use  a  watering-can  without  the  rose  and 
saturate  the  soil  without  wetting  the  leaves. 


HOW  TO  PREPARE  MANURE  FOR 
MUSHROOM-BEDS. 
It  is  a  fact  that,  owing  to  the  bad  preparation  of 
the  manure,  many  cultivators  have  failed  to  grow 
Mushrooms  satisfactorily.  It  is  never  wise  to 
be  in  a  great  hurry  in  collecting  the  manure  and 
the  making  up  of  the  bed.  On  the  other  hand, 
it  is  equally  unwise  to  delay  the  making  up 
after  the  manure  is  in  a  fit  condition  ;  neither 
should  the  beds  be  formed  while  a  severe  frost 
prevails,  as  the  frozen  outer  portion  of  the 
manure  would  heat  too  violently  afterwards. 
Manure  from  the  stables  must  be  collected  every 
morning  and  spread  out  thinly  in  an  open  shed. 
Continue  to  add  fresh  manure  every  day  until 
a  sufiioient  quantity  has  been  collected  to  form 
the  bed.  Every  second  day  the  material  must  be 
turned  over  ;  if  this  is  not  done  overheating  and 
burning  will  occur,  and  then  the  manure  will  be 
useless  for  hot-bed  purposes.  Two-thirds  must 
be  pure  horse-manure  and  one-third  the  shorter 
portion  of  the  litter,  the  long,  unstained  litter 
being  picked  out.  When  the  right  quantity  has 
been  collected,  form  one  large,  loose  heap  and 
allow  it  to  remain  so  for  two  nights  and  one  day  ; 
then  spread  out  the  material  once  more  to  allow 
the  rank  gases  to  escape,  and  it  will  be  fit  to 
form  the  bed.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


4. — OLEARIA  CDTTINGS  PLANTED   IN   A   COLD 
FRAME. 


Climbikg  Roses. — These  Roses  now  form  a  quite 
distinct  feature  in  our  gardens,  and  in  future 
years  they  will  be  still  more  prominent.  Even 
if  a  plant  is  left  unpruned  the  following  year,  it 
will  bear  a  fair  amount  of  bloom  and  the  in- 
experienced amateur  will  be  quite  satisfied  with 
the  results.  The  properly  pruned  plant,  how- 
ever, gives  the  most  satisfaction.  It  is  not  the 
proper  time  now  to  do  the  real  pruning  of  Rose 
trees ;  but  in  the  case  of  climbing  Roses  growing 
on  pillars,  pergolas  and  arbours,  much  good  may 
bs  done  by  cutting  away  some  of  the  old  wood 
and,  furthermore,  by  tying  out  the  young 
branches — those  strong  basal  shoots  which  have 
made  such  good  progress  this  year — so  that  they 
may  mature  through  full  exposure  to  the  light 
and  air.  They  will  not  ripen  if  they  are  left 
partly  covered  by  the  leaves  and  stems  of  the 
older  wood.  I  daresay  many  readers  of  The 
Garden  have  noticed  how  badly  the  ends  of 
the  young  shoots  of  climbing  Roses  become 
blackened  during  the  months  of  January,  Feb- 
ruary and  March,  owing  to  exposure  to  frosts 
and  cold  east  winds.  The  portion  of  the  shoot 
so  damaged  is  the  unripe  one  ;  and  my  advice  is, 
try  and  get  all  the  shoots  of  the  current  year's 
growth  as  well  ripened  as  possible  now  by 
exposing  them  to  the  air  and  sunshine,  which 
will  harden  and  mature  at  a  time  when  Nature 
best  does  this  work — in  the  autumn.  There  are 
many  cool  but  very  draughty  places  in  town 
gardens,  especially  in  narrow  passages  and  comers 
with  north  aspects.  Roses  generally  thrive  very 
well  there  in  the  summer-time,  but  it  is  in  the 
early  part  of  spring  when  the  youngest  shoots  of 
the  trees  aufi^er  most. 

The  Propagation  of  Window  Plants.  — 
Curing  this  week  as  many  cuttings  as  possible 
consistent  with  future  requirements  must  be 
propagated.  Those  persons  who  are  reluctant 
to  spoil  the  beauty  of  the  flowering  plants,  yet 
have,  perforce,  to  depend  upon  them  for  the 
cuttings,  cannot  delay  this  work  any  longer 
without  risking  great  losses  among  the  cuttings 
owing  to  non-striking.  It  is  now  too  late  in  the 
season  to  place  newly  inserted  cuttings  of  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  in  the  open  air  without  any  pro- 
tection from  the  weather.  The  crudest  frame, 
however,  will  suflice  at  the  present  time.  Zonal 
Pelargoniums,  Fuchsias,  Gazanias,  Heliotropes, 
Marguerites,  Lobelias,  sweet-scented  <ieraniums 
and  Calceolarias  may  be  placed  in  pots  and  boxes 
in  such  a  frame.  The  Calceolarias  may  be  inserted 
in  a  sandy  bed  made  very  firm  in  the  frame 
itself.  Where  it  is  possible  to  procure  cuttings 
of  the  above-named  plants  from  the  borders, 
there  will  be  no  need  to  deface  the  window 
plants.  The  cultivator  must  rot  use  a  very 
rich  compost  in  which  to  insert  the  cuttings. 
If  the  soil  is  rich — made  so  with  manure — some 
of  the  cuttings  will  fail  to  emit  roots  and  will 
quickly  decay.  Others  which  root  into  the 
soil  will  grow  very  grossly,  and  thus  be  more 
difl&cult  to  keep  through  the  winter  on  account 
of  their  susceptibility  to  damping  off  or  being 
frozen.  Some  rotted  manure  may  be  used  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pots  and  boxes,  but  it  is  un- 
necessary if  the  soil  is  of  good  quality.  The 
pots  and  boxes  must  be  well  drained  and  the 
compost  pressed  down  firmly  in  them  ;  it  should 
contain  coarse  sand,  and  some  of  the  latter  must 
be  scattered  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  so  that  a 
portion  will  be  borne  down  by  the  stick  when 
holes  are  made  for  the  cuttings.  The  sharp  sand 
keeps  the  soil  open  and  allows  water  to  run 
through  it  freely,  but  the  coarse  grains  contain 
moisture,  and  as  they  are  lodged  around  the  base 
of  the  cutting,  they  induce  the  free  emission  of 
roots  from  it.  Water  must  be  given  freely 
directly  the  cuttings  are  inserted,  and  also  after- 
wards when  the  soil  gets  dry  ;  but  although  light 
syringings  will  benefit  the  foliage  of  the  other 
kinds,  the  cuttings  of  Pelargoniums  would  quickly 
damp  o£f  under  the  same  treatment.         Avon. 


450 


THE    GARDEN. 


[September  11,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR  THE  SOUTH  AND  SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Department. 

VINKRIES.— All  late  Grapes  should  be 
well  ripened  by  the  end  of  the  month 
if  they  are  to  hang  and  keep  sound 
for  several  weeks.  Those  which  may 
be  in  a  rather  backward  state  will 
need  to  be  pushed  forward  by 
employing  extra  fire-heat  day  and  night  and 
the  ventilators  kept  a  little  open  to  encourage  a 
free  circulation  of  fresh  air.  Attend  also  to  the 
roots,  keeping  them  well  supplied  with  water, 
both  clear  and  liquid  manure,  until  the  berries 
have  finished  colouring.  If  the  borders  are 
outside,  take  care  they  do  not  get  too  soddened, 
and  should  the  weather  prove  very  wet,  use 
glass  lights  or  tirpaulin  to  piotect  them. 

Early  Vines  which  have  been  cleared  of  their 
fruit  may  be  half-pruned  and  kept  very  cool,  but 
do  not  let  the  roots  get  too  dry  at  any  time. 
Examine  twice  a  week  the  bunches  of  Grapes 
which  are  ripe  and  remove  any  bad  berries  as 
soon  as  they  are  detected,  thus  preventing 
others  from  being  spoiled.  Attend  to  Muscats, 
and  where  the  foliage  is  rather  dense  pull  the 
leaves  a  little  away  from  the  bunches  to  improve 
and  assist  the  colouring  of  the  berries.  All 
unnecessary  lateral  growths  will  need  to  be 
removed,  and  if  the  borders  are  inside  a  mulch 
over  with  a  little  sweet  strawy  manure  will  be 
helpful  in  preserving  moisture  at  the  roots. 

Peach  Trees. — The  earliest  trees  if  not  dealt 
with  already  may  be  gone  over  and  slightly  pruned, 
removing  pieces  which  have  borne  fruit  and 
are  thus  of  no  further  use.  The  young  growths 
trained  during  the  summer  for  fruiting  next 
season  will  have  a  better  chance  to  mature.  Always 
preserve  and  train  in  the  sturdy,  medium-sized 
shoots  when  possible  ;  do  not  syringe  the  foliage 
too  much  during  dull  weather,  but  syringe 
thoroughly  in  the  morning  so  that  the  leaves 
may  get  dry  by  night.  Lite  trees  ripening  their 
fruits  should  be  gone  over  daily,  and  if  for 
packing  to  travel  long  distances  the  fruits  should 
be  gathered  a  little  under-ripe,  otherwise  they 
will  not  arrive  at  their  destination  in  a  satis- 
factory condition.  As  soon  as  the  trees  have 
been  cleared  of  their  crop,  give  the  roots  a  good 
soaking  and  the  foliage  a  thorough  cleansing. 

Plants    Under    Glass. 

Slave  Plants. — The  stove  should  at  this  season 
be  thoroughly  overhauled,  the  glass  and  wood- 
work well  washed  and  the  plants  put  in 
order  for  the  winter.  Any  potting  to  be  done 
ought  to  be  attended  to  at  once.  Young  plants 
of  Fandanus,  Dracjenas,  Crotons  and  many 
other  kinds  will  benefit  greatly  by  giving  them 
a  small  shift  at  this  season. 

Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine. — Plants  will  still 
be  growing  freely,  and  should  be  kept  in  an 
intermediate  temperature  and  supplied  with  a 
little  artificial  manure.  Clay's  Fertilizer  will  be 
found  very  useful  for  feeding  and  keeping  the 
foliage  in  a  healthy  condition  if  applied  at 
intervals  in  a  rather  weak  state  and  when  the 
pots  are  tilled  with  roots. 

Chrysanthemums.  — Attend  to  the  requirements 
of  these,  feeding  liberally  if  the  roots  are  rather 
cramped  in  small  pots.  Attend  also  to  the 
removal  of  useless  side  shoots  and  secure  the 
growths  retained  to  the  supports  before  they  get 
damaged  by  wind.  Some  of  the  early  flowering 
varieties  in  pots  may  be  removed  to  the  con- 
servatory, and  will  give  a  cheerful  appearance 
for  some  weeks,  there  being  many  excellent 
coloured  varieties  to  select  from. 

H.  Mabkham. 
(Gardener  to  Yisooont  Enfield. ) 
Wrolham  Park  Oardena,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS, 

Cool    ORCHins. 

Odontoiilossums. — Most  of  the  varieties  of 
this  interesting  species  require  some  attention 
at  this  season.  Some  may  require  repotting, 
and  all  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  having 
the  surface  material  removed  and  replaced  by 
fresh.  The  plants  should  be  turned  out  of  the 
receptacles  and  have  all  the  decayed  compost  care- 
fully removed,  preserving  as  many  fresh  roots  as 
possible,  but  cutting  clean  away  any  that  are 
of  no  further  use.  The  new  compost  may  con- 
sist of  equal  parts  of  peat  and  moss,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  finely  broken  crocks,  charcoal  and 
coarse  silver  sand.  If  the  moss  is  very  long  and 
difficult  to  manipulate  in  small  pots,  it  may  be 
cut  before  using.  The  pots  may  be  three-parts 
filled  with  crocks,  and  should  be  of  sufficient  size 
that  no  further  disturbance  will  be  required  for 
two  or  three  seasons.  The  plants  should,  when 
finished,  be  slightly  above  the  rims  of  the  pots, 
and  the  compost  be  made  moderately  firm  and 
quite  even. 

Re-surfacing. — Where  this  will  suffice,  as  much 
inert  material  as  possible  should  be  worked 
from  about  the  roots  with  the  aid  of  a  penholder 
and  be  replaced  with  other  rendered  more  line 
than  that  used  for  potting,  so  that  no  damage  is 
likely  to  accrue  to  these  or  others  just  emerging 
from  the  base  of  the  plant.  The  same  care  in 
watering  should  afterwards  be  practised. 

Hardy  Fruits. 
Strawberries. — Plants  layered  some  time  ago 
will  now  be  ready  for  putting  out,  which  should 
be  done  before  the  roots  get  closely  wound  inside 
the  pots,  or,  in  case  of  turves,  before  they  extend 
beyond  these  and  get  hold  of  the  surrounding 
soil.  Preparation  of  the  site  having  been  carried 
out  as  previously  advised,  the  whole  surface  may 
now  have  a  dressing  of  soot  or  lime  (not  both  at 
the  same  time),  or  if  burnt  refuse  is  at  hand  this 
is  an  excellent  fertiliser.  Incorporate  this  with 
the  soil  by  means  of  a  rake,  and  when  quite  dry 
tread  or  roll  until  all  is  firm.  The  distance  apart 
at  which  to  plant  depends  somewhat  upon  the 
methods  of  culture  followed.  If  the  plants 
remain  only  two  years,  2  feet  between  the  lines 
and  half  that  distance  from  plant  to  plant  is 
ample  ;  but  if  much  longer,  more  space  must 
accordingly  be  given.  The  natural  fertility  of 
the  soil  and  the  vigour  of  the  varieties  grown 
have  an  important  bearing  upon  this  point,  for 
although  moderately  close  planting  may  prove 
satisfactory  in  a  dry  season,  it  may  be  equally 
disastrous  when  an  excess  of  moisture  prevails. 
Raspberries. — As  the  fruit  is  gathered,  cut 
away  the  old  canes,  and,  after  thinning  the 
current  year's  shoots  to  the  requisite  number, 
secure  those  reserved  to  the  supports  for  future 
fruiting.  Autumn-fruiting  kinds  must  be  pro- 
tected from  birds,  previously  removing  surplus 
growths  that  the  ripening  process  may  be 
accelerated.  Mulching  applied  to  the  roots  of 
fruit  trees  seme  time  ago  may  now  be  removed 
and  the  soil  beneath  lightly  stirred  as  an  aid  to 
aeration. 

Vegetable    Garden. 

Caidifiower  Seed,  in  view  of  next  summer's 

requirements,  may  now  be  sown  upon  an  open, 

well-exposed  site.      Early  London,  Erfurt  and 

Carter's  Emperor  are  all  good  and  fairly  hardy. 

Lettuces. — Cos  and  Cabbage  varieties  may  also 
now    be  sown   to   stand    the    winter,  although 
more  than  one  sowing  is  advisable   in  case  the 
plants  get  too  large.       Bath  Cos  and  Hammer- 
smith Cabbage  are  well-tried  sorts.     Both  these 
and  Cauliflowers  should  be  sown  thinly  and  be 
transplanted  in  good    time    to    induce    sturdy 
growth  ;  if  crowded  in  the  seed-bed  the  plants 
are  sure  to  succumb  to  frost  and  damp. 
Jambs  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacharn.) 
OaUoway  House,  Oarlieaton,  Wigtovmahire. 


BOOKS. 


French     Market     Gapdenins-*— 

The  author  is  to  be  congratulated  on  the  compre- 
hensive,   inclusive    and    thorough    character   of 
this  work.     Every  point  of  importance  in   rela- 
tion to  the  intensive  culture  of  choice  vegetables 
in  winter  and  spring,  and  fruit  in  summer,  in  the 
Parisian    market  -  gardens    is    impartially    and 
effectively  discussed  and  plainly  set  forth  ;  so 
that  anyone  who  may  be  seriously  contemplating 
the  taking  up  of  this  work  may  find  in  the  pages 
of  this   book   all  it   is  possible  to  learn   fron 
reading  alone.     Having  had  a  long  experience  in 
the  growth  of  such  products  as  are  heie  dealt 
with,  both   under  glass  and    outdoors,  we   are 
prepared  to  admit  that  it  is  quite  possible  to 
extract  from  the  soil  of  England  (in  favoured 
localities  and  situations),   as   from   the   soil  of 
France,  by   the  aid  of   glass   frames  and   bell- 
glasses  (cloches)  the  enormous  returns  spoken  of 
as    produced    by    French     growers,    provided, 
however,  that  the  same  experience  is  brought 
to    bear    on    the   work    and    the   same   intense 
(almost  slavish)   industry  is  exercised    here  as 
in  France.      What  the   labour  associated  with 
the  successful  carrying  out  of  this  work  means 
is  very  well  described  in  a  passage  quoted  by  the 
author    from    a    French  authority,    "  Courtois 
Gerard,"  and  is  well  worth  reproducing.     This 
was  written  in  IHH.     The  conditions  now,  we 
think,  are  even  intensified.    "  Everyone  is  awake 
before  daylight  and  the  women  play  their  play 
as  well  as  the  men.     In  summer  they  are  often 
up  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  in  winter 
at  four  o'clock,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  sell  the 
produce  at  the  central   markets.      When  they 
return  home  they  attend  to  such  work  as  weeding, 
packing,   or     pulling     the    vegetables    for    the 
following  day's  market.   In  all  their  work  they  are 
assisted  by   their  daughters,  and  although  the 
work  is  not  exactly  rough,  it  is  nevertheless  very 
tiring,  because  they  are  often  obliged  to  kneel 
on  the  ground  for  the  greatest  part  of  the  day 
regardless  of  the  weather  or  season.     The  men 
commence  to  work  immediately  the  women  have 
gone  to  market.     At  seven  in  the  morning  they 
munch  a  crust  while  at  work,  and  at  nine  o'clock 
all  go  to  breakfast.     In  the  summer-time  they 
rest  in  the  middle  of  the  day  for  one  or  two 
hours,  and  all  have  dinner  together  as  one  family. 
After    dinner  each    one  works  on  again  until 
supper-time,  which  takes  place  at  ten  o'clock  in 
summer  and  eight  o'clock  in  winter.     During  the 
evening  the  men  water   the  crops,   make  mats, 
carry  leaf-soil,  manure,  &c.     At  the  same  time 
the   women    arrange    the    produce    in    baskets, 
&c. ,   for  market,   after    which    the  waggon    is 
loaded,    so     that    everything     shall    be    ready 
for  market.'     We  may  add  that  the  most  rigid 
economy  is   exercised   and    that    most    of    the 
sleep  the  workers  get  is  on   the   oirt-shaft  in 
going  to  and  coming  from  market.     Oar  object  in 
placing  this  picture  of  the  hard  and  laborious 
lives  of  the  Parisian  market-growers  before  our 
readers  is  not  to  dissuade  anyone  from  taking  up 
this  business,  but  to  protect  our  readers  from 
embarking    on    it    without     some    knowledge 
of  the  hard   work,  sacrifice  and  risk   entailed. 
Those  intending  to  take  up  this  business  will  be 
well  advised  to  spend  a  year  or  two  in  a  Parisian 
market-garden  before  they  risk  any  capital   or 
labour  in  the  work.     It  is  an  old  industry  in 
Paris,  dating  back,  so  the  author  tells  us,  to  at 
least  the  seventh  century.     Notwithstanding  the 
above  -  mentioned     difficulties    and     hardships 
attending  this  mode  of  culture,  we  hope  before 
long  that  it  will  take  deep  root  in  England  and 
grow    into    as    large    an    industry  as  it  is   in 
France,  where  we  gather  that  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of   Paris  alone   there    are   1,300   growers 
cultivating  about  3,000  acres  under  this  system, 
the  annual  value  of  the  produce  amounting  to 
the   sum  of   half  a  million    sterling,  giving   an 


»  "French  Market    Gardening."     By  John   Weathers, 
price  33.  6d.    (John  Marcay,  Albemarle  Street,  W.) 


September  11,  1909.  | 


THE    GAEDEN. 


451 


average  income  to  •  each  grower  of  about  £400. 
The  book  is  well  illustrated,  each  illustration 
teaching  some  practical  and  useful  lesson,  and 
may  be  unreservedly  recommended  to  those 
seeking  information  on  the  subject  it  deal^  with. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Sopkro-Cattlbya  Blackii. — This  is  said  to  be 
a,  hybrid  between  Sophora  grandiflora  and  Cattleya 
hardyana,  and  has  the  colour  of  the  former  with 
a  decided  Cattleya  shape,  both  in  flowers  and 
foliage.  The  blossoms  are  of  good  size,  measuring 
about  5  inches  in  diameter.  Shown  by  R.  G. 
Thwaites,  Esq.,  Christchuroh  Road,  Streatham. 
Award  of  merit. 

LcbHo  -  Cattleya  Golden  Oriole  Westonbirt 
variety. — This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
Orchids  we  have  ever  seen,  and  is  a  wonderful 
advance  on  Golden  Oriole  itself,  which  is,  of 
course,  a  glorious  flower.  The  Westonbirt 
variety  has  the  richest  yellow  sepals  and  petals 
it  is  possible  to  imagine,  and,  added  to  this,  the 
labellum  is  a  much  brighter  and  more  glowing 
scarlet-crimson  than  the  type,  the  flowers  also 
being  larger.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Holford,  CLE.,  C.V.O.,  Westonbirt,  Tetbury, 
Gloucestershire.     Award  of  merit. 

Montbretia  Pageant. — This  is  among  the  finest 
of  these  useful  flowering  plants  we  have  yet 
seen,  and  in  stature  and  vigour  compares  with 
the  giant  Prometheus.  The  flowers  are  large  and 
of  a  rich,  clear  reddish  orange  colour,  a  nearly 
complete  ring  of  crimson  encircling  the  base  of 
the  segments.  The  inflorescences  are  freely 
branched  and  the  plant  one  of  the  most  effective 
of  its  kind.  Exhibited  by  Colonel  Petre,  West- 
wick,  near  Norwich.     Award  of  merit. 

Montbretia  6.  HeiUey. — A  very  delightful 
novelty  with  flowers  of  large  size  and  coloured  a 
clear  apricot  yellow.  The  blossoms  are  well 
disposed  on  the  elegant  sprays,  and  we  regard  it 
as  one  of  the  finest  self  yellows  yet  raised. 
Shown  by  S.  Morris,  Esq. ,  Thetford.  Award  of 
merit. 

Oentiaiia  ornata.  —  A  delightful  species  of 
lowly  alpine  stature  and  a  free,  stoloniferous 
habit  of  growth  that  promises  well.  The  3-inch- 
high  blossoms  are  about  1^  inches  across, 
trumpet  shaped,  tapering,  of  a  rich  intense  blue, 
and  issue  from  tufts  of  linear  glabrous  leaves. 
The  mature  rosettes  of  leaves  are  about  2  inches 
long  and  are  arranged  in  whorls.  This  beautiful 
plant  was  found  by  Mr.  E.  H.  Wilson  when 
travelling  in  China  for  Messrs.  Veitch  at  an 
altitude  of  about  12,000  feet,  and  in  much  the 
same  region  as  Meconopsis  puniceus.  Shown 
by  Messrs.  J.  Veitoh  and  Sons,  Limited, 
Chelsea.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  31st  ult. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit, 
tree,  shrub.  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


An    Interesting    Honetscckle    from    South 
Devon. 
Mr.  W.  Fitzherbert,  Kingswear,  South  Devon, 
sends  us   a  spray  of  Lonicera   hildebrandiana. 


which  is  very  interesting  indeed.  He  writes : 
"  I  am  sending  you  a  flower-spray  of  Lonicera 
hildebrandiana.  My  plant  is  blooming  very 
freely,  having  over  fifty  flower-clusters  on  it. 
The  handsome  blossoms  are  4  inches  long  and 
measure  3  inches  across  at  the  mouth.  They  are 
first  white  and  the  tube  reddish,  but  change 
later  to  gold  and  the  tubes  to  bright  orange. 
The  leaves,  which  are  evergreen,  are  4  inches  in 
length  and  3  inches  in  breadth,  and  are  very 
ornamental.  My  plant  is  growing  against  a 
north-west  wall,  where  it  only  enjoys  three 
hours'  sunshine  during  the  day.  It  was  the 
only  piece  of  spare  wall  I  had  at  my  disposal  at 
the  time  I  obtained  the  Honeysuckle,  and 
remembering  what  the  late  Mr.  Henry  Ewbank 
said  about  it,  namely,  that  it  must  have  the  sun 
shining  on  it  continuously  from  the  time  it 
topped  the  horizon  until  it  set,  I  had  little  hope 
of  its  blooming.  However,  the  year  after  it  was 
planted  it  had  two  flower-clusters,  the  next  year 
twenty,  and  this  year  over  fifty.  It  has  slight 
protection  in  the  winter,  but  has  never  been 
harmed,  though  the  specimen  in  a  glass  house  at 
Messrs.  Robert  Veitch's  nursery  at  Exeter  lost 
every  leaf  the  winter  before  last  and  was  almost 
killed,  although  protected  by  a  glass  structure. 
The  scent  of  the  flowers  of  this  Honeysuckle  is 
very  delicious  and  is  far  stronger  than  that  of 
any  other  member  of  the  family." 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Ansvrers*—Tlie  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  ma;/ 
be,  and  with  that  object  loill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
'^Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearlg  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  anly,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  OF  The 
Garden,  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  l/usiness  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  u^-ed  m  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Plants  fop  Rhododendron  beds 

[E.  M.  jlf.).— The  Irish  Heath  (Dabiecia  poli- 
folia)  would  make  an  excellent  undergrowth  for 
your  Rhododendrons,  or,  if  you  do  not  care  for 
that,  try  Erica  cinerea.  The  Delphiniums  will 
be  rather  coarse-growing  to  mix  with  Rhododen- 
drons, and  some  good  Lily,  such  as  L.  pardalinum, 
would  be  preferable.  Comus  Kousa  and  C. 
florida  rubra  are  very  good  shrubs  where  they 
do  well,  but  they  succeed  in  comparatively 
few  places,  and  are  risky  shrubs  to  plant  with- 
out you  are  sure  that  they  flower  well  in  the 
district.  There  is  little  doubt  but  what  C. 
Mas  will  flourish  and  flewer  well,  for  it  flowers 
almost  anywhere.  If,  however,  you  decide 
to  plant  the  other  two,  they  will  grow  in  the 
soil  you  describe  if  it  is  well  worked,  but  it  is 
doubtful  whether  they  will  flower  freely. 

Plants  fop  hepbaceous  bopdep 

(D.  M.  M.). — The  following  plants  should  be  of 
service  to  you  for  the  border  in  question.  Low- 
growing  plants  of  a  few  inches  to  1  foot  high 
should  include  Achillea  umbellata,  A.  Clavennse, 
A.  rupestria,  all  white-flowered  ;  Antennaria 
tomentosa,  yellow  ;  Phlox  amcena,  rosy  red  ; 
P.  canadensis,  blue ;  Iris  pumila,  in  several 
varieties  ;  I.  nudieaulis,  blue  ;  Alyssum  saxatile 
fl.  -pi. ,  yellow ;  Hepaticas  in  white,  blue  and 
pink  ;  Primula  rosea  ;  P.  denticulata  ;  Saxifraga 
Wallacei,  white  ;  S.  Guildford  Seedling,  crimson ; 
Megasea  cordifolia,  pink  ;  Adonis  vernalis, 
yellow  ;  Gentiana  acaulis,  blue  ;  Anemones  of 
the  fulgens  and  hortenais  class  with  tuberous 


roots  ;  Arnebia  echioides,  yellow  ;  Auriculas  ; 
Campanula  muralis,  C.  Profusion  ;  C.  G.  F. 
Wilson ;  C.  puUoides,  Cheiranthus  alpinus, 
yellow  ;  Aster  alpinus,  blue  and  white  ;  Geum 
montanum,  yellow  ;  and  many  more.  For  the 
taller  plants,  Lychnis  Visearia  plena,  dwarf  Flag 
Irises,  single  and  double  Pyrethrums,  Campanula 
earpatica,  C.  c.  alba,  C.  turbinata  (in  shades  of 
blue),  C.  c.  Riverslea  (dark),  C.  Hostii,  C.  H. 
alba,  Aquilegia  cserulea  and  others  could  be 
employed  with  advantage,  preferably  always  in 
free  groups  or  patches. 

Soil   and   situation    fop    hapdy   plants 

{A .  H.).  —  Primula  pulverulenta  may  be  regarded  as 
requiring  a  moi3t  position  like  P.  japonica  if  its  fullest 
development  is  desired.  Scabiosa  caucasica  will  grow 
freely  in  sandy  loamy  soils  in  the  open  positions  of  the 
border,  and  requires  periodically  to  be  raised  from  seeds 
in  those  districts  where,  after  a  prolonged  flowering,  it 
sometimes  perishes.  The  Onosma  prefers  a  fairly  dry 
and  sunny  situation  where  a  deep  rootrun  in  sandy 
loam,  \vithout  manure,  can  be  given  it.  Full  cultural 
instructions  were  given  recently  in  The  Garden 
concerning  Ostrowskia,  and  to  this  we  refer  you.  Iris 
cristata  and  I.  gracillipes  are  dwarf  growing  and  almost 
frail  members  of  the  rhizomatous  Irises,  and  should  be 
grown  in  a  fairly  sunny  spot  in  sandy  soil.  The  Pole- 
monium  is  never  quite  so  happy  as  when  grown  in  the 
rock  garden  in  a  misture  of  sandy  loam  and  mortar  rubble 
or  sandstone  chips  without  manure.  The  Alliums  are  a 
very  numerous  set,  and  with  many  the  trouble  is  how  to 
get  rid  of  some  of  them  when  once  established.  They  are 
by  no  means  all  alike,  and  if  you  have  any  particular 
species  in  mind,  please  say  so,  and  we  will  help  you. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Roses  fOP  two  beds  (Grace  Gardener). 
The  two  varieties,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  and  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay,  would  make  two  fine  beds,  and 
we  can  strongly  recommend  them.  As  to  whether 
you  have  two  varieties  more  nearly  resembling 
each  other  is  a  matter  of  taste.  If  you  preferred 
a  pink  to  go  with  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  we 
advise  Betty  or  Lady  Ashtown.  Both  are 
charming  Roses  and  would  flower  freely  all  the 
summer  and  autumn.  The  two  Polyanthas, 
Aschenbrodel  and  Mrs.  W.  H.  Cutbush,  would 
be  delightful  and  make  a  continuous  show.  The 
other  sorts  you  name  we  do  not  recommend. 
Charlotte  Klemm  is  fine  and  makes  a  brilliant 
bit  of  colour.  If  you  elect  to  plant  this,  then 
Ecarlate  would  be  a  splendid  companion.  It  is 
even  more  brilliant  than  this  very  bright  sort. 
Other  splendid  bedders  are :  Reds,  General 
Maoarthur,  Richmond,  Lady  Battersea,  Liberty  ; 
pinks,  Caroline  Testout,  Mme.  Leon  Pain,  Mrs. 
E.  G.  Hill,  La  France  ;  whites  and  flesh.  Prince 
de  Bulgarie,  Pharisaer,  G.  Nabonnand,  Peace ; 
yellow  and  bufl",  Mme.  Ravary,  Joseph  Hill, 
Melanie  Soupert  and  Edu  Meyer.  You  will 
require  more  than  six  bushes  to  plant  a  bed  2.5  feet 
by  3  feet.  To  make  a  good  show  you  would 
require  two  rows  of  plants,  the  latter  2  feet  apart. 
Even  if  a  single  row  the  beds  would  take  twelve 
plants. 

Roses  ppoducing  stpongi  sappy 
gPOWthS  (H.  D.  H.). — Such  growths  are,  as 
as  rule,  more  ebjeotionable  in  the  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals  than  the  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas.  In  the 
latter  groups  they  will  most  probably  bloom 
towards  late  autumn  and  yield  a  cluster  of 
beautiful  flowers.  With  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
we  prefer  to  stop  such  growths  by  pinching  out 
their  points  as  soon  as  it  is  seen  they  are  not 
going  to  bloom  ;  then  in  March  they  are  cut 
down  hard  to  one  or  two  eyes,  unless  they  are 
sufficiently  hard  and  well  ripened  to  suffer  them 
to  remain  ;  but  usually  such  growths  are  much 
too  pithy  to  be  serviceable.  By  removing  them 
entirely  in  summer-time  we  check  root-action, 
which  is  unwise.  If  they  crowd  the  other 
growths  too  much,  they  can  be  tied  out  to  a 
stake.  We  prefer  to  go  over  all  our  Hybrid 
Perpetual  Roses  and  some  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  in 
late  September  and  remove  the  old  growths, 
reducing  the  shoots  to  five  or  six  of  the  soundest 
and  hardest  of  the  current  season's  growths. 
Sometimes  we  remove  these  soft  growths  at  this 
time,  supposing  the  plants  to  have  sufficient 
well-ripened  growths  to  enable  us  to  dispense 


452 


THE     GARDEN. 


i  September  11,  1909. 


with  them.  It  jou  remember  that  one  well- 
ripened  growth  will  produce  three  or  four  new 
shoots  next  year,  you  will  readily  see  that  five 
or  less  such  growths  will  be  ample  for  one  bush 
to  carry ;  therefore,  there  is  no  need  to  retain 
soft,  pithy  wood. 

Sample  of  soil  for  Roses  [Lady  M. 
E.  C). — We  fear  you  would  have  much  difficulty 
in  growing  good  Roses  in  the  soil  of  which  you 
send  us  a  sample.  There  is  an  entire  absence  of 
humus,  and  it  appears  little  better  than  ashes. 
We  certainly  advise  you  to  have  the  soil  exca- 
vated to  a  depth  of  2  feet  in  the  beds  or  borders 
where  you  propose  to  plant  your  Roses,  and 
replace  with  the  best  loam  you  can  procure 
locally.  Perhaps  you  could  arrange  with  certain 
contractors  or  builders  to  deliver  some  top  soil 
such  as  they  remove  from  a  meadow  when  about 
to  commence  building  operations.  A  few  cart- 
loads of  such  soil  would  enable  you  to  grow 
splendid  Roses.  You  would  need  to  incorporate 
some  good  farmyard  manure,  or  Wakeley's  Hop 
Manure,  which  is  an  excellent  substitute,  and 
some  half-inch  bones  also  added  would  be  advis- 
able. This  latter  is  a  very  enduring  fertiliser, 
and  is  far  safer  to  use  than  ordinary  chemical 
manures.  We  recommend  you  to  plant  mainly 
bush  Roses,  but  a  few  standards  and  half- 
standards  interspersed  would  give  a  nice  effect. 

Roses  for  grarden  and  exhibition 

(Caroline  Tenlout). — We  think  the  following 
selection  of  Hybrid  Teas  will  meet  your  require- 
ments. William  Shean  is  a  very  good  Rose,  and 
we  should  certainly  include  this  variety.  Other 
fine  sorts  are  Florence  Pemberton,  Clara  Watson, 
Earl  of  Warwick,  General  Macarthur,  Joseph 
Hill,  Joseph  Lowe,  Lady  Ashtown,  Lyon  Rose, 
Mme.  Segond  Weber,  Mrs.  Theodore  Rooseveltand 
Prineesse  Mertchersky.  A  dozen  good  standards 
of  Hybrid  Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals  would  be 
as  follows :  Caroline  Testout,  Mamie,  .J.  B.  Clark, 
Hugh  Dickson,  Charles  J.  Grahame,  Killamey, 
Charles  Lefebvre,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Rich- 
mond, Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford,  Gustave 
Grunerwald  and  Laurent  Carle.  Six  good  pillar 
Roses  of  vigorous  growth  are  Mme.  Alfred 
Carri^re,  Climbing  Caroline  Testout,  Francois 
Crousse,  Mme.  Hector  Leuilliot,  Conrad  F.  Meyer 
and  Ards  Pillar  ;  or  if  you  desire  ramblers  to 
run  up  tall  poles  and  eventually  to  arch  over  the 
paths,  then  we  should  advise  Hiawatha,  Lady 
Gay,  White  Dorothy  Perkins,  Goldfinch,  Rubin 
and  Blush  Rambler. 

Rose     Oloipe     de     DlJon     not    gpowing 

(Perplexed). — The  wood  of  the  Kose  plaut  appears  to  be 
healthy.  Probably  the  roots  were  damaged  wheu  trans- 
planting,  or  they  are  in  uncongenial  soil.  We  advise  you 
to  cut  down  all  the  growths  to  within  1  foot  of  the  ground 
at  once  ;  then  keep  the  plant  well  syringed  morning  and 
evening.  If  the  roots  are  healthy,  you  will  soon  find  that 
new  shoots  will  commence  to  start  out.  The  soil  around  the 
plant  should  be  just  lightly  forked  up,  and  if  you  have 
reason  to  think  the  roots  are  not  in  well-moistened  soil, 
give  the  plant  a  good  watering. 

Rose  William  Allen  Richardson  fpom 
CUttlniTS  (^.  fi.).— The  cuttings  will  root  freely  at  this 
season  of  the  year  if  provided  with  a  little  bottom-heat. 
It  would  be  best  to  piepare  some  .^-inch  pots  with  plenty 
of  crocks  and  sandy  soil ;  then  dibble  the  cuttings  around 
the  edge,  placing  a  very  small  inverted  pot  in  the  centre  to 
keep  the  foliage  well  up  to  the  light.  The  pots  are  then 
plunged  in  some  Cocoanut  fibre  upon  a  gentle  hot-bed  or 
under  a  propagating  frame  in  the  greenhouse.  Some  fresh 
stable  manure  well  turned  and  then  made  into  a  hot-bed 
would  answer  best,  but  be  careful  the  violent  heat  subsides 
before  placing  the  pots  upon  the  bed.  Another  good  plan 
and  a  very  simple  one  is  to  make  a  shallow  frame  in  full  sun. 
Place  about  1  foot  of  fresh  stable  manure  in  the  bottom, 
then  about  3  inches  or  4  inches  of  sifted  loam,  and  on  to 
this  2iuchesor3inchesof  silversand.  Press  firmly  and  well 
water  ;  then  next  day  insert  the  cuttings  about  1^  inches 
apart.  Cuttings  are  made  from  the  growths  that  have 
just  borne  blossoms.  They  should  contain  two  eyes  or 
buds.  Remove  the  leaf  from  the  bottom  eye  and  cut  the 
wood  level  just  beneath  the  eye.  The  top  leaf  is  left  on 
the  cutting.  After  dibbling  in  sand,  give  the  cuttings  a 
good  watering  and  keep  them  sprinkled  every  hour  during 
sunshine  for  about  a  fortnight.  In  about  a  month  the 
cuttings  may  be  potted  o£f  or  planted  outdoors  in  gritty 
soil,  and  kept  shaded  with  canvas  screens  for  a  week  or 
more  and  gently  sprayed  at  frequent  intervals.  Some  bell- 
g'asses  or  cloches  would  answer  as  well  as  a  frame,  but  a 
gentle  bottom-heat  is  needed.  Be  careful  to  shade  the 
glass  by  painting  it  with  some  flour  mixed  with  water ; 
Ibis  adheres  better  than  whitewash.    .Should  there  be  any 


branches  of  young  wood  near  the  ground,  these  could  be 
layered  in  the  same  manner  as  Carnations. 

Rooting  standard  BpiaPS  (B.  Billericay).— The 
method  of  rooting  these  young  Briars  is  novel,  but  it  is 
not  one  we  should  advocate,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the 
Briars  would  take  too  long  to  gain  strength,  and  a 
miserable,  weak  standard  Rose  is  about  the  most  ugly 
thing  one  can  see  in  a  garden.  The  side  shoots  one  inserts 
the  buds  into  should  be  nearly  as  thick  as  one's  little 
finger.  We  take  it  yours  are  nothing  like  this.  We  agree 
with  you  that  the  large  knob  often  sent  with  a  standard 
Rose  is  anything  but  desirable  ;  but  this  shows  an  error 
in  trimming,  as  most  of  this  should  be  cut  away,  then 
plenty  of  fibrous  roots  are  formed.  If  you  care  to  send  us 
one  of  the  Briars  later  on,  we  will  give  you  our  opinion 
of  the  same. 

Roses  failing  to  develop  thelp  flowreps 
(3/.  F.  £.).— Several  of  the  buds  enclosed  were  from  Com- 
tesse  de  Serenye,  a  notoriously  bad  sort  to  expand.  Others 
appeared  to  be  some  of  the  very  dark  Roses,  such  as 
Jean  Liabaud,  which  in  such  a  season  as  we  have  had  are 
almost  sure  to  fail  to  develop,  as  their  blooms  are  so  very 
double.  A  few  buds  have  rotted  on  the  plants.  This  has 
happened  in  many  gardens,  especially  upon  such  double 
varieties  as  Queen  of  Spain,  Mildred  Grant,  &c.  We 
should  advise  you  to  obtain  some  of  the  lovely  Hybrid 
Teas,  whose  flowers  never  fail  to  unfold,  as  they  are  net 
overcrowded  with  petals.  They  are  far  and  away  the  best 
tribe  for  the  novice  to  grow,  and  will  provide  you  with 
bloom  the  whole  of  the  summer  and  autumn. 

Roses  with  cupled  foliage  (.M.  F.  i).).-The 
foliage  you  send  has  been  attacked  by  the  larvae  of  the 
leaf-rolling  sawfly.  The  sawfly  appears  in  May  and  early 
June  ;  the  colour  is  black  and  shiny.  The  eggs  are  laid  on 
the  leaf.  The  larvte  are  all  green.  They  fall  to  the  ground 
when  full-grown,  enter  the  soil  in  August  and  at  once 
form  a  cocoon,  in  which  they  remain  until  February  or 
March.  The  best  remedy  is  to  remove  the  injured  foliage 
immediately  they  are  observed  and  destroy  them.  No 
spraying  would  seem  to  be  really  effectual.  Where  the 
plants  are  old  it  would  be  advisable  to  transplant  them 
into  fresh  soil,  and  in  doing  so  have  the  roots  well  washed, 
as  this  pest  is  often  found  attached  to  the  roots  of  the 
Roses  and  may  even  be  introduced  to  one's  garden  in  this 
way. 


THE  GREENHOUSE. 
The  tFeatment  of  Chpysanthe- 
mum  buds  (A.  W.  B.). — If  the  side  shoots 
were  removed  now  the  crown  buds  would 
probably  not  swell,  because  the  shoots  have  made 
too  much  growth.  It  would  be  much  the  best 
plan  to  retain  three  side  shoots  from  each  main 
stem,  i.e.,  each  stem  bearing  crown  buds,  and 
secure  terminals  in  due  course.  You  may  then 
disbud  or  allow  all  buds  to  open.  Those  speci- 
mens which  are  not  disbudded  will  bear  beautiful 
sprays  of  blossoms. 

Sowing:  seeds  of  an  Epidendpum 

{F.  L.). — Take  off  the  seed-pod  which  is  just 
splitting  and  lay  it  in  a  piece  of  paper  in  a  dry 
place  for  a  few  days.  Directly  the  seeds  are 
shed  they  should  be  sown,  as,  owing  to  their 
minute  character,  Orchid  seeds  had  better  be 
sown  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe.  The  best  way  to 
treat  the  seeds  is  to  sprinkle  them  on  the 
growing  sphagnum  of  a  pot  which  contains  a 
plant.  If  you  have  a  plant  of  the  Epidendrum 
itself  in  which  the  sphagnum  is  in  a  good  con- 
dition, you  may  sow  seeds  thereon ;  but,  if  not, 
any  Orchid  that  thrives  in  the  same  tempera- 
ture will  do.  The  sphagnum  is  in  the  best  con- 
dition for  seed-sowing  in  a  month  or  so  after  the 
pot  has  been  top-dressed  with  it,  as  it  will  be 
then  starting  freely  into  growth.  This  is  better 
than  old-established  moss.  Of  course,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  wash  the  seeds  away  in  watering, 
while  the  sphagnum  must  not  be  allowed  to  get 
dry.  When  the  young  plants  are  large  enough 
to  handle,  they  must  be  pricked  off  in  a  mixture 
of  peat  and  sphagnum,  the  latter  predominating. 
As  the  roots  are  so  delicate,  the  peat  and  sphag- 
num for  this  purpose  must  be  cut  very  fine. 

How  to  grow  the  Amapyllis  {Arthur 

H.  R.). — In  the  first  place,  the  Amaryllis  does 
not  require  stove  treatment,  as  at  any  season  the 
temperature  of  an  intermediate  house  is  quite 
sufficient  for  it.  When  repotting  is  needed 
it  should  be  carried  out  directly  the  flowers  are 
past,  but  annual  repotting  is  not  considered  so 
necessary  as  it  once  was  ;  indeed,  we  have  this 
season  seen  some  collections  in  good  health  that 
had  not  been  repotted  for  three  years.  It  all 
depends  upon  the  condition  of  the  roots,  as,  if 
they  are  in  a  good    state,   the  bulbs  may  be 


allowed  to  remain  undisturbed.  In  this  case 
they  must  be  given  an  occasional  stimulant 
during  the  growing  season.  After  flowering, 
whether  repotted  or  not,  the  plants  must  be 
encouraged  to  make  good  growth.  Then,  by  the 
end  of  July  or  so,  they  may  be  fully  exposed  to 
sun  and  air  in  order  to  ripen  the  bulbs.  At  that 
time  they  should  be  watered  as  before  till  they 
show  signs  of  going  to  rest,  when  the  supply  of 
moisture  must  be  lessened.  When  totally 
dormant  they  may  be  kept  quite  dry  or  nearly 
BO  till  a  month  or  so  of  the  New  Year  has  passed. 
Then  under  the  influence  of  a  little  additiona 
warmth  and  increased  moisture  the  plants  will 
start  into  growth.  In  a  structure  with  a 
minimum  winter  temperature  of  45°  Amaryllis 
may  be  safely  kept  at  that  season. 

Migrnonette  in  fpames  (Ceri«).— Some 
forms  of  Mignonette  are  far  more  robust  and  of 
much  stouter  growth  than  others,  so  that  they 
should  always  be  chosen  for  growing  in  pots. 
Perhaps  the  most  popular  of  all  for  flowering  in 
pots  is  that  known  ae  Machet.  Seeds  may  be 
sown  any  time  from  now  to  the  month  of  March, 
a  suitable  compost  being  good  fibrous  loam, 
rendered  porous,  if  it  is  of  too  adhesive  a 
nature,  by  a  little  leaf-mould  and  sand.  Five- 
inch  or  6-inoh  pots  are  a  very  suitable  size  in 
which  to  sow  the  seed.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
sow  the  seed  in  the  pot  in  which  it  is  to  grow, 
as  Mignonette  transplants  badly.  The  pota 
must  be  effectually  drained  and  filled  to  within 
half  an  inch  of  the  rims  with  the  potting  compost, 
pressed  down  firmly  and  made  level.  In  sowing 
the  seed  it  must  not  be  done  too  thickly,  as 
from  three  to  five  plants  are  quite  sufiicient  for 
pots  of  the  sizes  named.  Still,  more  seeds  than 
this  must  be  sown,  and  they  can  be  thinned  out 
later  on.  The  pots  should  be  stood  in  a  cold 
frame  or  quite  a  cool  greenhouse.  They  must 
have  a  good,  light  position  and  be  so  situated 
that  there  is  a  free  circulation  of  air  around  the 
plants.  As  the  pots  get  furnished  with  roots, 
an  occasional  dose  of  liquid  manure  will  be 
helpful. 

Plants  dylngr  In  consepvatopy  (Riada).— 
It  is  quite  impossible  for  us  even  to  hazard  a  guess  as  to 
the  cause  of  the  plants  in  your  conservatory  being  so 
badly  affected.  At  first  we  were  inclined  to  think  that 
the  water  was  at  fault ;  but  as  the  plants  in  the  green- 
house have  not  suffered,  this  theory  is  disposed  of.  What- 
ever it  is,  the  cause  is  undoubtedly  local,  and  a  practical 
person  on  the  spot  might  be  able  to  put  his  finger  on  the 
origin  of  the  trouble.  In  what  way  is  the  water  stored  ? 
We  ask  this  because  water  from  a  new  galvanised  cistern 
will  often  prove  injurious  to  plants,  and  also  from  tubs  or 
drums  which  have  contained  any  poisonous  wash  or 
paint,  tar  or  paraffin.  Watering  the  plants  when  the  sun 
is  on  the  house  will  not  affect  them  in  this  way. 

Plants  fop  autumn  flowepinsr  (Chrysan- 
tlwmum).~We  do  not  advise  yoiu*  friend  to  entirely 
discontinue  the  culture  of  Chrysanthemums,  as  they  are  so 
valuable  for  decorative  purposes.  At  the  same  time,  there 
are  many  other  plants  that  flower  during  the  last  two  or 
three  months  of  the  year,  so  that  there  is  no  need  to  limit 
the  display  to  Chrysanthemums  alone.  Among  them  may 
be  especially  recommended  the  Tree  Carnations  referred 
to  by  you,  and  also  Salvia  splendens,  with  scarlet  flowers, 
and  Salvia  azurea  grandiflora  (syn.  Salvia  Pitcheri),  whose 
blossoms  are  of  a  delightful  shade  of  blue.  Zonal  Pelar- 
goniums, too,  flower  beautifully  in  the  winter  if  the  plants 
are  grown  in  a  fully  exposed  spot  during  the  summer. 
Impatiens  Holstii,  a  shrubby  member  of  the  Balsam 
family,  is  now  represented  in  our  gardens  by  many 
varieties  whose  blossoms  range  in  colour  from  white  to 
deep  red.  They  flower  freely  during  the  autumn  and 
winter  months.  Begonias,  too,  of  several  kinds  are 
available,  notably  the  socotrana  hybrids  of  Messrs.  Veitch, 
Gloire  de  Lorraine  in  its  several  forms,  and  Begonia 
semperflorens  gigantea,  which  flowers  freely  throughout  the 
greater  part  of  the  year.  What  may  be  regarded  aa 
ordinary  greenhouse  plants  for  autumn  and  winter  flower- 
ing are  also  available.  They  include  Cyclamen,  Cinerarias, 
Primulas,  Roman  Hyacinths,  Paper-white  Narcissi,  Bou- 
vardias.  Lilies  of  the  Valley,  Arum  Lilies,  &c.  More 
uncommon  plants  that  bloom  at  that  time  of  the  year  are 
Calceolaria  Burbidgei,  Cheiranthus  kewensis  (a  change- 
able-coloured Wallflower),  Eupatorium  petiolare,  Leonotis 
Leonurus,  Reinwardtia  trigyna  and  Tecoma  Smithli. 
Hard-wooded  plants  include  Heaths,  represented  by  Erica 
caflra,  E.  hyemalis  and  its  white  variety,  E.  gracilis  and 
E.  Melanthera,  Epacris  of  sorts,  the  deliciously  fragrant 
Daphne  indica  and  Azalea  obtusa,  with  its  white  variety 
alba.  The  little  red  blossoms  of  this  Azalea  are  at  their 
best  before  any  other  member  of  the  family.  The  Lilacs 
and  Wistarias  recommended  by  you  would  form  a  charm- 
ing feature  from  February  onwards,  but  they  cannot  be 
counted  upon  to  be  at  their  best  in  early  winter. 


Supple nieiu  to  THE  GARDEN y  September  iiih,   1909. 


Hudson  6-  Keants,  Ltd.,  Printers,  London,  S.£, 


FOUR    GOOD 
DARWIN    TULIPS. 

Pink,  Edmes;  Pale  Pink,  Clara  Butt; 

Mauve.      Bleu      Amiable;      Cr-inison, 

Whistler. 


§^t- 


GARDEN. 


"No.  1974.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


Septesiber  18,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


Treatment  of  Vines 
IN  Indifferent 
Health     453 

Notes  op  the  Wbbk 
Forthcoming  events      455 

CORRESPOITDENOE 

Oreening  seed  Potato 

tubers      454 

Verbascum    pulveru- 

lentum 455 

CriDum  yemense  . .  455 
Primula  obconica  . .  455 
Mosses  in  Scotland  . .  455 
Roses  in  Surrey  . .  455 
Sweet  Peas  at  Mark's 

ley       455 

Kitchen  Garden 
A     valuable    winter 

salad 4S6 

A  new  hardy  Kale  ..    456 
Trees  and  Shrubs 
French     Gorse, 
Heather  and  Ling       456 
Fruit  Garden 

Fruit  notes        . .     . .     457 
Flower  garden 
The  glamour  of  the 

Tulip        467 

The   Clintonias    and 
their  culture . .     . .    468 


Rose  Garden 
Notes     on    newer 

Roses. — II 

The  Lyon  Rose . .     . . 
Some    new  and    old 
Roses  suitable  for 
windy  gardens 
Greenhouse 

Notes  on  Orchids     . . 
GARDENma  FOR  besinners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        

How  to  rope  Onions 
A  hint   on    planting 

Strawberries  . . 
Saving  seed  Potatoes 
The  Town  Garden  .. 
Gardenins  of  the  Week 
For    the  South   and 

South  Midlandi    ..    462 
For  the    North   and 
Korth  Midlands  . .     462 

Books     462 

AnawERB    to    Corbe- 
spobdests 
Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Rose  garden 
Greenhouse . .    . . 
Kitchen  garden 


459 
459 


IliLiUSTRATIONS. 

The  rare  Crinum  yemense 455 

Choice  Tulips  with  a  wind  screen  of  coir  netting      . .  456 

Barwin  Tulips  under  protection       457 

A  good  flower  and  buds  of  the  Lyon  Rose     468 

A  plant  for  the  shaded  rock  garden 459 

How  to  rope  Onions       460 

A  hint  on  planting  Strawberries       461 


BDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

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Offices:  to,  Tametoek  Street,  Couent  Oarden,  W.C. 


TREATMENT    OF  VINES    IN 
INDIFFERENT  HEALTH. 

THE  time  has  now  arrived  when  this 
important  question  will  force  itself 
upon  many  owners  of  Vines  in  in- 
different health — as  to  which  is  the 
best  course  to  pursue  to  bring  them 
round  again  as  soon  as  possible  into  a  vigorous 
and  fruitful  condition  of  growth.  Among 
gardeners  there  are  two  well-known  methods 
advocated,  around  which  controversy  has  waxed 
warm  for  generations,  and  still  the  question 
remains  open  and  in  abeyance. 

One  method  advocated  by  a  certain  school  of 
gardeners  is  to  destroy  such  Vines  and  replant 
young  ones  in  a  new  border.  No  doubt  in 
many  respects  the  advocates  of  this  method  of 
renewing  vineries  with  healthy  and  fruitful 
Vines  stand  on  fairly  firm  ground.  They  argue 
that  in  this  way  in  the  course  of  a  few  years 
their  vineries  are  re-established  with  healthy, 
vigorous  and  fruitful  Vines,  which  not  only 
produce  heavy  crops  of  excellent  Grapes,  but 
such  young  Vines  are  justly  an  object  of  pride 
to  the  gardener  who  has  had  everything  to  do 
to  make  their  growth  a  suacess,  as  well  as  a 
source  of  pleasure  to  his  employer  and  friends 
who  admire  them.  But  the  time  comes,  and 
sometimes  rather  quickly,  when  the  same  Vines 
show  signs  of  distress  from  one  cause  or  another, 
especially  in  cases  where  they  have  to  be 
cropped  heavily,  and  the  question  again  presents 
itself  :  What  is  to  be  done  now  ?  Are  we  to  go 
over  the  same  ground  again  at  so  much  cost  in 
labour,  money  and  the  loss  of  a  crop  of  Grapes 
(of  any  consequence)  for  a  matter  of  three  years, 
and  possibly,  by  some  mischance  in  management, 
we  may  have  to  travel  over  the  same  ground 
even  again  ? 

I  think  there  is  a  better  way ;  it  is  an  old, 
well-trodden  way,  too,  along  which  most  of  our 
oldest  and  best  Grape-growers  have  travelled 
for  long.  It  is  the  way  of  infusing  new  blood 
and  new  life  into  the  system  of  the  weakened 
Vines,  by  partly  replanting  the  old  roots  in  new 
soil  and  resting  the  Vines  for  a  season,  by  ex- 
acting from  them  a  light  crop  only  in  the 
summer  immediately  following  their  replanting, 
thereby  forcing  the  energies  of  the  new  masses 
of  roots  which  will  be  formed  in  the  new  soil 
into  the  building  up  of  a  new  constitution  of 
the  Vine  in  the  way  of  stronger  and  firmer  spur 
and  leaf  growth  for  years  afterwards,  followed, 
as  a  matter  of  course,  by  improved  crops  of 
higher  quality  and  better-flavoured  Grapes.  It 
is,  I  think,  generally  admitted  that  old  Vines 
produce  much  richer-flavoured  Grapes  than 
young  ones. 


I  have  been  prompted  to  write  these  notes  on 
this  subject  by  the  wonderful  object-lesson 
shown  by  the  twelve  splendid  bunches  of  Black 
Hamburgh  Grapes,  the  produce  of  the  old  Vine 
at  Hampton  Court,  which  were  exhibited  at  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meeting  at  the 
Horticultural  Hall  on  the  31st  ult.  This  old 
Vine,  we  are  told,  is  close  on  142  years  old,  and 
has  been  familiar  to  all  visitors  to  this  stately 
and  glorious  old  Royal  palace  and  its  gardens 
for  many  years.  The  Vine  up  to  the  last  few 
years  has  been  more  the  object  of  veneration  and 
wonder,  by  reason  of  its  great  age  and  of  the 
many  hundreds  of  small,  dust-covered  bunches  of 
Grapes  it  annually  produced,  than  from  a  point 
of  high  culture,  penned  up  as  it  then  was  in  a 
small  box  of  a  vinery,  and  its  doom  has  been 
predicted  by  publie  writers  for  generations 
past. 

Since  His  Majesty's  (whose  property  the  Vine 
is)  accession  to  the  Throne  the  old  Vine  has 
received  more  generous  treatment.  A  new, 
loftier  and  larger  glass  house  has  been  built  over 
the  Vine.  The  old  flues  for  heating  which  mostly 
covered  the  inside  of  the  border  have  been 
removed  and  their  places  taken  by  hot-water 
pipes.  The  space  occupied  by  these  old  flues 
(the  foundations  of  which  laid  deep  down  in  the 
border)  has  been  filled  with  the  best  Vine  soil 
procurable,  and  instead  of  the  public,  who  visit 
the  Vine  in  many  thousands  a  day  in  the  summer- 
time, having  access  to  the  vinery,  they  are 
now  only  permitted  to  view  it  from  a  glass 
lobby.  This  arrangement  effectively  protects  the 
Vine  from  the  dust  and  nuisanee  previously 
experienced. 

The  quality  of  the  Grapes  shown  on  the 
oecasion  referred  to,  both  as  regards  ^size  of 
bunch,  berry,  colour  and  bloom,  was  generally 
remarked  at  the  meeting  by  those  well  qualified 
to  know  to  be  as  good  as,  if  not  better  than,  any 
examples  of  the  same  Grape  shown  at  "any  fruit 
show  this  year,  and  great  credit  is  due  to  His 
Majesty's  head-gardener,  Mr.  McKellar,  who 
has  charge  of  the  Vine,  for  the  initiation  of  the 
new  treatment,  and  to  his  fruit  foreman  and  Mr. 
Jack,  on  the  latter  of  whom  the  responsibility  of 
the  immediate  care  of  this  grand  old  Vine  has 
rested  for  upwards  of  thirty  years. 

I  could  cite  many  other  cases  equally  favour- 
able to  this  system  of  rejuvenating  old  Vines, 
but  I  think  enough  has  been  said  to  justify 
the  partly  replanting  of  old  Vines  in  indififerent 
health  rather  than  the  uprooting  of  them  and 
the  replanting  of  young  Vines.  There  are  many 
amateurs  who,  no  doubt,  would  thus  wish  to 
renovate  their  weakly  Vines,  but  do  not  know 
how  to  go  about  the  work.  In  a  future  note  I  will 
endeavour  to  show  how  it  is  done.        X.  Y.  Z. 


454 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Septemmer  18,  1909. 


NOTES  of_j;he  week. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

September  20.  —  National  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Executive  and  Floral  Committees' 
Meeting  at  Essex  Hall,  Strand. 

September  21.  —  National  Dahlia  Society's 
Late  Exhibition  at  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens, 
Regent's  Park. 

Sending  fruit  by  post  op  rail.— 

At  this  season  we  receive  a  great  many  packages 
containing  fruits  for  naming,  and  we  wish  to 
draw  our  readers'  attention  to  the  neeessity  of 
these  being  properly  numbered  and  securely 
packed  in  stout  boxes,  preferably  those  of  tin  or 
wood.  It  is  useless  to  send  soft  fruits,  such  as 
Peaches,  Plums  and  Grapes,  in  cardboard  boxes 
unless  these  are  of  extra  thickness,  as  by  the 
time  they  reach  this  office  they  are  usually 
smashed  and  the  contents  reduced  t»  pulp, 
postal  packages  generally  being  worse  than  those 
sent  by  rail.  Care  should  also  be  taken  to  pack 
the  fruits  so  that  they  cannot  move  about  inside 
the  box. 

Fremontia  ealitopnica  at  'Win- 
chester.— It  may  be  of  interest  to  your 
readers  to  learn  that  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
above-named  uncommon  tree,  growing  in  a  town 
garden  in  'Winchester,  has  passed  the  last  severe 
winter  without  a  twig  being  injured.  For  a 
month  or  more  in  June  and  July  the  upper  part  of 
the  tree  was  a  mass  of  bright  yellow  flowers. 
The  specimen  is  growing  on  light,  chalky  soil  in 
a  south-eastern  angle  of  a  walled-in  garden.  It 
is  of  pyramidal  shape  and  about  12  feet  by 
5  feet,  very  vigorous,  with  dark  green  foliage. 
The  flowers  were  clustered  on  the  upper  part  of 
the  tree,  and,  being  visible  from  the  road,  were 
a  source  of  much  interest  to  observant  passers- 
by. — HiLLiER  AND  SoNS  (Landscape  Gardeners), 
Winchester. 

A  gcod  vegetable  shoAW.— What  can 

be  done  in  a  limited  way  to  create  a  remarkably 
fine  exhibition  of  vegetables  was  evidenced  in 
the  Lowfield  Nurseries,  Crawley,  Sussex,  through 
the  generosity  and  public  spirit  of  Messrs.  J. 
Cheal  and  Sons,  on  the  8th  inst.  Through  the 
issue  of  a  small  schedule  of  sixteen  classes, 
only  two  of  which  were  for  collections,  the  rest 
being  for  single  dishes,  a  really  superb  lot 
of  products  was  collected,  grown  by  gardeners, 
amateurs  and  cottagers  for  some  twenty  miles 
area  round  Crawley.  The  competition  was  also 
most  remarkable,  running  frequently  up  to 
twenty  exhibits  in  one  class.  Potatoes,  Onians, 
Carrots,  Parsnips,  Cabbages,  Cauliflowers, 
Celery,  Beets,  Turnips  and  other  products  were 
wonderfully  good,  and  in  the  collections  some  of 
those  were  specially  so.  We  have  rarely  seen  in 
such  a  show  higher  tribute  paid  t»  the  merits  of 
vegetables,  whether  as  exhibits  or  as  food.  The 
firm  treated  all  exhibitors  and  visitors  to  a 
liberal  luncheon,  and  later  in  the  day  the 
members  of  the  Crawley  Gardeners'  Society, 
eighty  in  number,  after  visiting  the  show  and 
the  extensive  nurseries,  were  entertained  at  tea. 

Scottish  Horticultural  Associa- 
tion.— The  monthly  meeting  of  this  association 
was  held  in  their  hall,  5,  St.  Andrew  Square, 
Edinburgh,  on  September  7.  There  was  a  good 
attendance,  presided  ever  by  the  president,  Mr. 
James  Whytock,  Dalkeith  Palace  Gardens.  The 
exhibits  were  not  numerous,  being  mainly  com- 
posed of  early  single  Chrysanthemums  sent  by 
Mr.  Thomson,  Dean  Gardens.  Several  of  these 
were  favourably  mentioned  by  the  floral 
committee,  and  one  received  a  first-class 
certificate.  This  was  afterwards  named  James 
Whytock.  The  spoit  from  Rose  Dorothy 
Perkins  called  Christian  Curie  was  shown  by 
Messrs.  Cooker  and  Sons,  Aberdeen,  and  received 
an  award.  The  paper  of  the  evening  was  on 
"  The  Smaller  Hardy  Bulbous  Plants,"  and  was 
given  by  Mr.  S.  Arnott,  Dumfries,  author  of 
"The  Book   of  Bulbs,   &c."    In  it  Mr.  Arnott 


dealt  with  the  smaller  hardy  bulbs,  such  as 
Snowdrops,  Chionodoxas,  Scillas,  Puschkinias 
and  others  of  that  class,  pointing  out  their 
value  and  advocating  the  larger  use  of  the 
lesser-known  bulbs.  The  cultivation  was  also 
referred  to  and  several  suggestions  made  regard- 
ing species  and  varieties.  The  lecture  had  an 
excellent  reception  and  elicited  a  good  discussion. 
Mr.  Arnott  was  accorded  a  hearty  vote  of  thanks. 
AgPiCUltUPal  statistics.— The  Board 
of  Agriculture  and  Fisheries  has  just  published 
a  volume  dealing  with  the  prices  and  supplies  of 
corn,  livestock  and  other  agricultural  produce. 
This  can  be  obtained  from  Messrs.  Wyman  and 
Sons,  Limited,  Fetter  Lane,  London,  E.G., 
price  8  id. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


Sweet  Peas  from  Hampshire. 
Mr.  B.  B.  Hagen,  Sway  House,  near  Brocken- 
hurat,  Hampshire,  sends  us  a  large  and  representa- 
tive collection  of  Sweet  Peas.  Judging  by  the 
size  of  the  flowers  these  had  been  well  grown, 
but  the  rough  weather  had  to  some  extent  marred 
the  blossoms. 


Two  Rare  Delphiniums  from  Scotland. 

Dr.  MeWatt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B. , 
sends  us  spikes  of  the  two  rare  Delphiniums 
cardinale  and  Zali.  Dr.  McWatt  writes : 
"  These  two  species  being  difficult  to  grow  and 
flower  no  doubt  accounts  for  their  rarely,  if  ever, 
being  seen  in  Scottish  gardens.  Delphinium 
cardinale,  a  native  of  California,  I  find  best  to 
grow  as  a  biennial.  It  is  the  plant  of  all  others 
which  one  requires  to  guard  against  slugs.  When 
properly  grown  it  is  a  very  pretty  plant,  with 
branching  spikes  covered  with  bright  scarlet 
flowers  which  haveslightly  yellow  petals.  It  grows 
from  3  feet  to  4  feet  in  height,  and  as  it  has  long, 
fleshy  roots,  it  should  have  a  good  depth  of  soil. 
During  the  winter  it  should  either  be  kept  in  a 
cool  frame  or,  if  in  the  open,  be  covered  with  a 
side-light  or  an  inverted  pot,  so  as  to  keep  the 
roots  fairly  dry  to  prevent  them  from  rotting. 
It  flowers  late.  Delphinium  Zali,  being  of  a 
free  branching  habit  and  oovered  with  beautiful 
pale  sulphur  flowers,  is  one  of  the  finest  plants  we 
have  in  the  garden  at  this  time  of  the  year.  The 
same  treatment  applies  to  this  plant  ;  but  as  it 
is  so  late  in  flowering  I  always  start  it  in  pots  in 
a  cool  house  or  frame  and  plant  out  in  the 
sunniest  position  after  it  is  1  foot  or  more  high. 
It  must  have  sun,  otherwise  the  flowers  will 
never  open.  Out  of  some  thirty  plants,  owing  to 
the  lack  of  sunshine  I  have  this  year  managed 
to  flower  only  three.  Both  these  plants  well 
repay  a  little  extra  care  and  attention.  I  send 
you  spikes  of  both  in  flower,  also  two  spikes  of 
Zali  (the  flowering  spike  is  fully  6  feet  high  and 
well  grown).  In  the  other  you  will  see  from  the 
state  of  the  flowers,  which  are  going  back  without 
opening,  the  truth  of  my  assertion  that  the  plant 
requires  a  great  deal  of  sunshine  to  develop  the 
flowers  properly." 


CORRESPONDENCE 

(The  Editor  is  not  retponaible  for  the   opinionf 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 

The  seaplet-fpulted  Eldep.— Hiving 

regard  to  the  wide  popularity  which  orna- 
mental berried  shrubs  and  plants  have  obtained, 
I  have  wondered  that  this  really  very  handsome 
berried  Elder  is  not  more  commonly  planted. 
Possibly  "D.'s"  note  may  help  to  draw  atten- 
tion to  it.  I  first  saw  a  really  fine  specimen  of 
it  in  a  roadside  garden  near  the  church  at  Witley, 
Surrey,  several  years  since,  and  I  believe  it  is 
still  there.  Usually  I  was  there  about  the  middle 
of  July,  and  by  that  time  the  numerous  clusters 
of  berries  of  a  rich  scarlet  hue  were  fully  ripe. 


thus  showing  that  it  produces  them  excep- 
tionally early.  If  planters  or  admirers  of  berried 
shrubs  will  plant  this  Elder  more  and  the  glaring 
yellow-leaved  Elder  less,  their  shrubberies  will 
greatly  benefit.  Where  there  is  ample  room, 
planters  may  do  worse  than  devote  at  least 
one  large  bed  or  border  to  berried  shrubs  or 
plants  alone.  We  have  so  many  full  of  interest 
and  beauty  well  worthy  of  such  a  position. 
Will  "D."  kindly  furnish  a  list  of  suitable 
plants '.' — A. 
Gapden   decopative  Dahlias.— 

While  the  National  Dahlia  Society  is  conducting 
trials  of  Cactus  and  other  Dahlias  outdoors  with 
a  view  to  determine  their  garden  decorative 
value,  and  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  has 
a  trial  at  Wisley  of  garden  Dahlias  not  of  the 
show  Cactus  order,  it  is  evident  that  these  trials 
are  likely  to  be  materially  handicapped  by  the 
season,  which  is  peculiarly  obstructive  to  Dahlia 
flowering.  Having  regard  to  the  effect  of  such 
weather  an  these  beautiful  autumn  flowers,  I  was 
agreeably  surprised  to  find  Dahlias  of  all  sections 
blooming  so  finely  at  Messrs.  Cheal  and  Sons' 
Lowfield  Nurseries,  Crawley,  on  the  8th  inst., 
but  being  much  more  southerly  than  some  growers 
they  may  have  suffered  less  from  the  weather. 
I  went  over  all  the  sections  other  than  the  large 
shows  and  fancies,  these  being  beside  the  mark, 
specially  to  note  any  that  presented  distinctive 
decorative  habits,  and  the  following  as  seen  at 
Crawley  can  be  relied  on  to  be  really  good,  bright 
and  effective.  Of  Cactus  varieties,  undoubtedly 
one  of  the  very  best  I  have  yet  seen  for  this  purpose 
is  the  Hon.  Mrs.  Greville,  apricot  yellow,  stems 
stout,  erect,  and  flowers  borne  above  the  folinge 
admirably.  A  few  others  very  good  were  Rob 
Roy,  crimson  ;  Pearl,  rich  pink  ;  Countess  of 
Lonsdale,  salmon  carmine  ;  Mr.  F.  H.  Cook, 
orange  scarlet ;  Star,  apricot  ;  and  the  old  but 
charming  Mary  Service.  Some  growers  who 
realise  the  importance  of  getting  good  garden 
decorative  forms  rather  than  securing  mere 
exhibition  flowers,  named  to-day  and  gone 
to-morrow,  are  now,  as  Messrs.  Cheal  are 
doing,  turning  their  attention  in  the  desired 
direction.  Very  beautiful  indeed,  perhaps 
most  of  all  in  gardens,  are  the  singles,  of 
which  the  firm  has  wonderfully  beautiful 
varieties.  'Very  striking  is  Owen  Thomas, 
crimson,  broadly  margined  gold ;  Brilliant, 
crimson  scarlet,  with  gold  round  the  eye ; 
Stromboli,  black,  with  white  margin  ;  Kitty, 
rosy  mauve ;  Formosa,  brilliant  scarlet ;  Glencoe, 
pale  yellow  ;  Eric,  coppery  orange,  shading  to 
mauve  ;  Mikado,  red  centre,  pale  yellow  margin ; 
William  Parrott,  scarlet  ;  Butterfly,  pure  white ; 
Mrs.  Bates,  pink,  suffused  rose  ;  and  Royal 
Sovereign,  crimson  maroon,  suffused  white. 
These  are  all  truly  beautiful,  whether  in  the 
garden  or  as  cut  flowers  for  vase  decoration. 
A  few  equally  floriferous  and  effective  Pompons 
are  Fashion,  orange  buff ;  Mars,  scarlet  ;  Crusoe, 
white,  tipped  rose  ;  Daisy,  salmon  terra-cotta  ; 
'Vergo,  pure  white ;  Montague  Wootton,  deep 
maroon  red ;  Annie  Holton,  crimson,  tipped 
white  ;  Mary,  soft  primrose ;  Emily  Hopper, 
clear  yellow  ;  and  Cyril,  deep  maroon  crimson — 
really  a  splendid  selection.  So  far  the  best  of 
all  the  Pasony-flowered  forms,  and  here  of  medium 
height,  is  Glory  de  Baarn,  rosy  pink,  but  this 
section  needs  much  improving  yet. — D. 
Greening  seed  Potato  tubeps.— 

When  freshly  dug  Potatoes  are  exposed  to  the 
light,  the  sudden  change  from  darkness  to 
light,  also  the  very  thin  nature  of  the  skins 
just  then,  causes  greening  to  follow  quickly  if 
the  exposure  endures  for  some  twelve  hours.  It 
is  assumed  that  through  such  exposure  the 
skins  thicken  or  harden  and  thus  become 
more  disease-resisting  in  the  store.  But  if 
freshly  lifted  tubers  are  gathered  the  moment 
they  are  dry  and  are  placed  in  the  store, 
the  skins  will  soon  become  thick  and  hard, 
but  unless  exposed  to  strong  light  they  will 
not  green.  Tubers  so  treated,  when  exposed  to 
the  air  more  fully  in  the  late  winter  to  produce 


September  18,  1909. 


THE    GAEDEN. 


455 


sprouts,  will  not  produce  longer  or  weaker  sprouts 
than  will  those  thoroughly  greened  by  exposure 
to  the  light  as  soon  as  lifted  ;  indeed,  the  results 
will  be  the  same.  Where  the  tubers  push 
premature  shoots  which  have  later  to  be 
removed  is  when  removed  from  the  air  ;  though 
dark,  the  temperature  of  the  store  is  too  high, 
thus  creating  early  growth.  This  in  its  effort  to 
find  light  elongates  in  a  blanched  form  rapidly 
and  causes  a  great  waste  of  strength.  It  is  best 
to  fully  expose  all  seed  tubers  to  the  air  from 
the  first  lifting.— A.  P. 

Vepbascum  pulverulentum.— I  am 
indebted  to  M.  Correvon  for  his  note  upon  the 
Mullein  figured  in  The  Garden,  page  422. 
Seeds  of  my  stock  of  plants  came  to  me  originally 
from  Bithynia,  one  of  the  homes  of  V.  olympieum, 
as  V.  olympieum.  The  late  Rev.  C.  WoUey-Bod, 
with  whom  I  was  in  frequent  correspondence, 
had  some  seeds  from  me,  and  was  interested  in 
the  question  of  its  nomenclature.  He  wrote  to 
me  when  his  plants  flowered  to  the  effect  that 
they  were  not  V.  olympieum,  and  that  he  had 
submitted  them  to  an  authority  on  the  genus, 
who  stated  that  they  were  V.  pulverulentum  or 
floceosum,  a  native  species,  an  opinion  in  which 
Mr.  WoUey  -  Dod,  who  was  himself  a  high 
authority  on  hardy  flowers,  agreed.  There  is 
some  crenation  in  the  leaves  of  my  plant, 
especially  in  the  stem  ones,  and  this  agrees  with 
the  description  of  V.  pulverulentum  given 
by  Babington  and  others,  whe  describe 
them  as  "obscurely  crenate."  I  hope, 
however,  to  submit  the  plant  to  an  autho- 
rity once  more  and  to  state  the  conclusion 
then  arrived  at.  There  can  be  no  question 
as  to  the  beauty  of  this  Mullein,  and  I 
always  like  to  keep  several  plants  in  my 
garden. — S.  Arnott,  Dumfriea. 

Cpinum  yemense.  —  This  bold 
and  handsome  Crinum  is  supposed  to  be 
a  variety  of  C.  latifolium  from  Tropical 
Asia.  The  latter  species  is  figured  in  the 
"  Botanical  Register,"  t.  1297.  It  cannot 
be  recommended  to  all,  but  only  to  those 
who  have  a  moderately  mild  climate.  At 
Glasnevin  it  flourishes  at  the  base  of  a 
greenhouse  wall  and  is  never  troubled 
by  the  frost.  In  some  points  it  is 
superior  to  C.  Powelli  album,  for  it  starts 
to  flower  a  month  earlier  and  is  more 
continuous.  The  stout  scapes  rise  to 
4  feet  in  height,  and  bear  from  ten  to 
twenty  flowers  on  each  umbel.  The 
perianth  tube  of  the  flower  is  reddish  and 
3  inches  long.  The  limb  is  horizontal 
and  the  same  length.  When  opening  the 
segments  are  tinged  with  red  on  the  outside, 
but  are  pure  white  when  the  flower  is  fully 
open.  The  leaves  are  2  feet  to  3  feet  long, 
stiffer,  and  of  a  much  deeper  green  than  C. 
Powelli.— C.  F.  Ball. 

Primula  otaeonica.— I  should  like  to 

learn  whether,  other  than  in  the  one  particular 
case  referred  to  below,  anyone  has  found  flowers 
of  Primula  obconioa  to  assume  a  double  form. 
The  instance  in  question  is  in  the  gardens  of 
Coombe  Court,  Kingston-on-Thames,  where  Mr. 
J.  Smith,  Lord  Ripon's  gardener,  has  a  batch, 
many  of  which  have  flowers  distinctly  double 
in  character.  Just  now  the  plants  are  carrying 
few  flowers,  but  at  least  a  dozen  out  of  the 
batch  had  flowers  including  a  surplus  of  petals, 
such  as  is  found  in  the  semi-double  and  double 
flowers  of  P.  sinensis.  It  is  interesting  to  find 
another  member  of  the  great  Primrose  family 
thus  showing  its  amenability  to  this  form  of 
floral  variation.  So  far,  however,  the  fertile 
organs  seem  perfect,  but  the  anthers  are  very 
low  down  and  few  in  number ;  obviously  some 
have  become  converted  into  petals.  Primu- 
las acaulis,  veris  and  Auricula  have  produced 
numerous  double  flowers.  P.  obconioa  seems  on 
the  way  to  join  P.  sinensis  and  those  named  in 
this  sportiveness. — D.  [Several  years  ago  we  saw 
an  illustration  of  double  flowers  o£  P.  oboonica.^ — 
Ed.] 


The  winter  in  New  Zealand.— We 

have  this  year  had  a  remarkably  mild  autumn 
and  winter,  even  for  our  semi-tropical  climate, 
and  this  has  caused  the  nurserymen  much 
trouble  by  unduly  prolonging  the  flowering 
season  of  Roses,  &o. ,  which  have  been  very 
reluctant  to  ripen  off.  In  my  own  garden  a  bed 
of  Delphiniums,  instead  of  dying  off  at  the  usual 
time,  made  strong  growth  and  produced  a  fine 
third  crop  of  flowers.  I  intended  sending  you 
a  photograph  of  them  as  they  grew,  but  put  off 
taking  it  until  I  could  get  some  orthochromatic 
plates,  and  meantime  a  gale  beat  the  flowers 
down  and  spoiled  them,  especially  the  tall 
spikes.  However,  I  gathered  some  and  photo- 
graphed them  on  an  ordinary  plate,  which,  of 
course,  does  not  show  the  colour.  I  forget 
the  exact  date,  but  it  was  during  the  last 
week  of  June,  the  middle  of  our  winter,  and  I 
send  you  the  photograph  for  what  it  is  worth, 
thinking  it  may  interest  you.     I  am  a  subscriber 

!  to  The  Garden  and  find  it  very  interesting, 
though  out  here  our  gardening  is  practically  all 
outdoors. — A.  E.  G.,  Auckland,  New  Zealand. 
[Unfortunately,  the  photograph  was  unsuitable 
for  reproduction.- Ed.] 
Mosses  in   Scotland.— I   can  recom- 

;  mend  this  corner  of  the  British  Isles  to  Moss- 
hunters — the  whole  place  is  carpeted  with  Mosses 
in  great  variety  ;  it  must  surely  be  one  of  the 


quite  small  ?— Mrs.  L.  M.  [Onions  for  pickling 
should  have  finished  their  growth,  or  nearly  so, 
before  they  are  lifted,  otherwise  they  will  not  be 
crisp  when  pickled,  although  they  might  keep 
very  well  if  pickled  as  soon  as  lifted. — Ed.] 

Roses  in  Surrey.— l  wish  we  could  say 
the  same  regarding  a  good  Rose  season  here  as 
they  have  had  in  West  Lothian.  A  more  wretched 
season  I  have  never  experienced  ;  certainly  the 
plants  have  made  good  growth  owing  to  the  wet, 
but  as  soon  as  the  blooms  began  to  come  out 
down  came  the  pelting  rain  and  spoilt  them. 
Hundreds  rotted  and  fell  off,  and  it  has  been 
going  on  in  this  way  right  up  to  now  ;  but  there 
is  one  Rose  that  has  stood  the  test  better  than 
all  of  them,  viz.,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  which 
with  us  is  always  good,  and  another  that  must 
take  second  place  is  Mrs.  David  McKee. 
Caroline  Testout  has  done  very  well,  but  last 
year  this  Rose  was  absolutely  grand.  White 
Maman  Cochet  has  stood  the  weather  very  well ; 
on  account  of  its  hanging  propensities  the  rain 
did  not  settle  in  its  blooms.  Liberty  has  been 
very  nice  in  colour,  and  we  have  some  good  blooms 
now ;  it  seems  to  like  a  cool  season.  At  West 
Lothian  yourcorrespondentsaysonly  an  occasional 
bloom  of  Bessie  Brown  opens  well ;  in  all  the 
gardens  that  I  have  visited  I  have  never  seen  a 
good  bloom  of  this  Rose  yet — that  is,  grown  as 
a  garden  Rose  ;  it  is  only  suitable  for  exhibition. 
The  Tea  Rose  Mme.  Constant  Soupert  has 
made  splendid  growth  with  us  this  season ; 
we  find  it  grows  just  as  well  on  its  own 
roots  as  budded.  Dean  Hole  does  not  like 
so  much  wet ;  it  makes  a  fine  standard, 
but  if  there  is  any  mildew  about  it  soon 
gets  it,  which  is  a  great  pity.  The  climbers 
Dorothy  Perkins,  Crimson  Rambler  and 
many  others  have  grown  and  flowered 
just  the  same  as  in  other  years,  only  their 
blooms  have  been  spoilt  by  so  much  wet. 
— W.  R.  Giles,  The  Rosary,  Carshaltov, 
Surrey. 


THE   RARE   CRINUM   YEMEN SE. 

wettest  areas,  and  this  summer  has  been  a 
veritable  shower-bath.  It  will  interest  some  of 
your  readers  to  learn  that  all  over  the  district 
Tropseolum  speoiosum  grows  like  a  weed,  not 
only  in  north  aspects,  but  in  full  south  sun — or, 
rather,  in  that  direction  where  one  might  expect 
to  find  the  sun  !  Also  it  is  well  to  note  that 
Smilax  grows  happily,  even  rampantly,  outdoors 
and  receives  no  winter  protection.  — E.  Curgwen, 
Borrodale,  Invemess-ahire,  N.  B. 

Disease  in  Lllium  oandidum.— 
As  I  see  in  a  recent  issue  that  one  of  your 
correspondents  was  enquiring  about  the  white 
Lily  disease,  I  send  you  particulars  of  a  success- 
ful treatment  we  have  followed.  All  our  Lilies 
went  off  about  three  years  ago  in  a  long  border. 
We  dug  them  up,  burnt  the  worst  and  kept  all 
the  others  for  about  six  weeks  in  a  bag  con- 
taining flowers  of  sulphur  so  that  they  were 
thoroughly  covered  with  it,  then  dug  the  ground 
well,  added  fresh  manure  and  replanted  in  the 
same  border.  Directly  any  sign  of  disease 
shows  itself  they  are  again  treated  in  the  same 
way,  and  I  now  have  beautifully  strong  plants. 
Can  you  tell  me  at  the  same  time  what  I  must 
do  to  get  small  Onions  for  pickling.  I  have 
sown  the  Silver  Skin  thickly,  and  they  have  not 
been  thinned,  to  keep  them  small,  but  the 
gardener  says  they  will  not  keep  if  dug  before 
they  are  ripe,  and  they  are  already  much  too 
large.      Cannot  they  be  dug  for  pickling  when 


SWEET    PEAS    AT 
MARK'S     TEY. 

ENTHUSIASTIC  growers  of 
Sweet  Peas  always  endeavour 
to  find  the  necessary  time  to 
visit  one  or  two  at  least  of  the 
nurseries  of  those  great  firms 
that  make  a  speciality  of  the 
Queen  of  Annuals,  and  those  who  were 
able  to  get  as  far  as  Mark's  Tey  to  see  the 
trials  of  Messrs.  Dobbieand  Co.  this  season  would 
assuredly  be  more  than  delighted  with  their 
outing.  There  are  many  producers  and  distri- 
butors of  Sweet  Pea  seeds,  all  of  whom  spend  much 
time  and  money  in  making  their  selections  and  in 
keeping  their  stocks  as  true  as  is  possible  with  a 
flower  that  has  of  late  years  grown  more  and 
more  fickle  as  it  increased  in  popularity,  but  none 
is  more  assiduous  in  such  important  attentions 
than  this  well-known  Scottish  house.  Mr.  Andrew 
Ireland,  who  has  charge  of  the  firm's  trials,  is  as 
keen  on  Sweet  Peas  as  any  man  in  the  country,  and 
what  he  does  not  know  about  them  and  their 
vagaries  is  scarcely  worth  knowing.  It  is  a  matter 
of  absolute  indifference  to  him  whence  a  variety 
has  emanated  ;  if  it  is  a  good  one,  that  is 
sufficient,  and  it  is  grown  with  as  much,  and  in 
some  instances  perhaps  more,  care  as  the  finest 
of  his  firm's  introductions. 

The  first  thing  that  forcibly  impresses  itself 
upon  the  visitor  is  the  remarkable  excellence  of 
the  plants.  They  are  all  raised  in  pots  and 
planted  out  at  distances  of  15  inches  or  18  inches, 
and  one  follows  row  after  row  and  seeks  in  vain 
for  the  expected  gap  or  the  diseased  specimen. 
Then  one  commences  to  pick  out  the  rogues  and 
is  further  impressed  with  the  wonderful  trueness 
of  the  bulk  of  the  stocks.  It  is  true  that  rows 
will  be  found  that  are  as  glorious  mixtures  as 
one  could  secure  if  a  packet  of  mixed  seeds  were 
bought  and  sown,   but  these   are    left    simply 


456 


THE     GARDEN. 


ISeptember  18,  1909. 


bbcause  the  time  and  labour  of  roguing  would 
bu  so  serious  that  it  could  not  possibly  be  made 
profitable.  If  the  varieties  in  such  a  row  are 
good  as  far  as  colour  is  ooneerned,  and  fine  seeds 
set,  they  are  gathered  and  added  to  the  mixtures ; 
but  should  there  be  the  slightest  sign  of 
inferiority,  then  the  whole  lot  is  thrown  aside. 
All  the  plants  are  supported,  and  the  ground  is 
kept  scrupulously  clean,  so  that  there  shall  be  no 
question  of  the  Sweet  Peas  sharing  the  food  with 
the  weeds. 

In  the  crossing  of  Sweet  Peaa  the  uatiring 
worker  at  Mark's  Tey  has  been  the  well-known  head 
of  the  firm,  Mr.  William  Cuthbertson.  For  some  , 
years  he  hiS  laboured  unceasingly  with  a  view 
to  the  production  of  something  of  conspicuous 
excellence,  and  there  are  now  among  his  seedling  <  i 
several  which  promise  to  bring  him  a  rich 
reward.  Mr.  Cuthbertson's  results  in  the  first 
year  are  nut  taken  as  gold  mines ;  on  the 
contrary,  the  products  are  carefully  saved  and 
sown  in  the  succeeding  season.  It  is  then 
probable  that  the  colours  will  break  and  possibly 
some  will  be  of  promise,  while  others  will  be 
inferior  ;  in  the  case  of  the  latter  there  is  no  i 
hesitation  in  throwing  them  away,  but  the  others 
are  saved  and  the  seeds  again  sown  for  testing. 
This  may  go  on  year  after  year  until  the  variety 
is  found  to  be  absolutely  reliable,  when  a  stock 
sufficient  to  put  on  the  market  is  grown.  Thus 
it  is  clear  that  one  cannot  raise  and  distribute  a 
new  Sweet  Pea  in  one  or  two  years  :  as  a  matter 
of  fact,  it  may  take  anything  from  five  o  ten 
years  before  it  can  be  placed  in  commerce,  and 
during  the  whole  of  that  period  time  and  labour 
.are  being  spent  on  growing  and  selecting  it,  so 


THE     KITCHEN     GARDEN. 

A    VALUABLE    WINTER    SALAD. 
A  T  this  season,  with  a  wealth  of  salads,  we 
/\  are  apt  to  overlook  the  winter  supply, 

/  %  and  during  early  September  those 
Z_^^  who  require  winter  salads  would  do 
£  \  well  to  sow  Sutton's  Winter  Lettuce- 
leaved  Endive,  a  long  name,  but  one 
that  describes  the  plant  well,  as  it  closely 
resembles  a  good  form  of  Lettuce,  of  the  Batavian 
type  as  regards  size,  and  is  more  hardy  than  the 
Lettuce,  therefore  more  valuable.  Indeed,  for 
winter  salads  this  is  a  splendid  plant,  and  sown 
as  advised,  very  thinly,  so  that  a  good  sturdy 
plant  is  secured,  the  grower  has  a  most  valuable 
addition  to  the  none  too  plentiful  winter  supply 
of  green  salads.  The  plants  when  grown  in  good 
land  attain  a  large  size,  and  I  advise  planting  a 
fair  number  on  an  open  border,  so  that  the 
plants  can  be  lifted  with  a  good  ball  and  given 
shelter.  The  remainder  planted  on  a  warm 
border  or  under  a  wall  would  give  a  supply  from 
November  to  January,  after  which  the  protected 
plants  would  come  in  for  very  large  heads.  An 
earlier  sowing  than  advised  would  do  well,  but  I 
always  found  the  later-sown  or  medium-sized 
plants  more  valuable,  as  they  wintered  well  and 
kept  up  a  supply  till  the  early  frame  Lettuces 
were  available,  and  when  the  plants  are  full 
grown  they  remain  sound  for  a  considerable  time. 

A    NEW    HARDY    KALE. 

The  Kales  are  so  useful  in  the  early  pirt  of  the 
year  that  any  variety  which   winters   well  and 


CHOICE  TULIPS   WITH   A   WIND   8CKBBN   OF  COIR  NETTING. 


that  it  shall  eventually  be  the  perfect   flower 
according  to  its  colour. 

For  the  forthcoming  season  Messrs.  Dobbie 
and  Co.  have  three  splendid  novelties,  and  as 
stocks  will  certainly  be  short  owing  to  the 
wretched  weather  that  prevailed  when  the  plants 
ought  to  have  been  seeding  freely,  readers  are 
advised  to  order  early  to  make  sure  of  enjoying 
a  share  of  the  good  things.  Masterpiece  is  a 
superb  waved  lavender ;  Edrom  Beauty  is  a 
charming  orange  pink  ;  and  Sunproof  Crimson  is 
precisely  what  its  name  implies.  Improved  Mrs. 
Henry  Bell  will  be  distributed  under  the  name 
of  Mrs.  Hugh  Dickson  ;  it  is  a  splendid  variety, 
probably  one  of  the  finest  in  cultivation.  Then 
no  one  must  miss  Mrs.  Andrew  Ireland,  the 
beautiful  bicolor  that  has  been  so  generally 
admired  this  season. 


gives  a  good  return  is  very  valuable.  The  new 
variety  named  Sutton's  Hybrid  is  most  distinct 
and  a  true  hybrid  ;  doubtless  one  of  its  parents 
is  Couve  Tronchuda,  a  vegetable  much  overlooked 
in  this  country  and  valuable  for  its  hardiness. 
In  any  case  it  is  an  excellent  midwinter  and 
spring  vegetable,  and  Messrs.  Sutton  class  it 
with  the  Borecoles.  It  is  very  hardy,  very 
prolific  and  of  good  quality,  and  when  grown 
specially  for  use  from  December  to  March  is  a 
most  valuable  hardy  vegetable.  The  plants  if 
allowed  room  give  a  large  return  in  the  way  of 
sprouts,  these  being  produced  in  abundance  from 
the  base  of  the  plant  to  the  top,  and  when  cooked 
are  delicious ;  indeed,  I  can  confidently  recommend 
this  plant  to  all  lovers  of  vegetables  who  require 
something  different  from  the  ordinary  green 
Borecole.  G.  Wythes. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 

FRENCH  QORSE,  HEATHER  AND 
LING. 

THROUGHOUT  August  and  September 
commons  and  hillsides  in  many  of  the 
southern  and  western  counties  are 
ablaze  with  the  gold,  purple  and  red 
flowers  of  these  common  plants,  and 
the  combination  is  one  that  might 
well  be  copied  in  gardens  in  those  parts  of 
the  country  where  the  plants  are  not  met 
with  in  a  natural  state.  Moreover,  they  are 
well  adapted  for  planting  in  poor  ground 
on  hillsides  or  on  the  level  where  little 
else  but  poor  grass  grows,  and  look  infinitely 
better  in  such  a  position  than  when  planted  in  a 
trim  or  highly  kept  part  of  the  garden.  Very 
little  in  the  way  of  cultivation  is  necessary,  pro- 
viding the  ground  in  well  dug  over  to  bury  grass 
or  weeds  and  a  little  care  is  taken  for  a  year  or 
two  to  prevent  coarse  weeds  from  smothering  the 
young  plants.  Of  course,  it  is  not  advisable  to 
plant  the  Heather  and  Ling  in  places  where  lime 
is  very  prevalent  and  such  plants  do  not  thrive, 
but  there  are  many  districts  where  the  idea 
could  be  successfully  carried  out. 

Care  must  be  taken  to  obtain  the  right  kinds  of 
Gorse  and  Heather,  so  that  they  will  blossom  at 
the  same  time.  With  the  Ling(Calluna  vulgaris) 
a  mistake  cannot  be  made,  as  it  is  the  only  species 
in  the  genus.  There  are,  however,  many  varieties, 
any  of  which  may  be  used ;  in  fact,  in  some  places 
where  it  abounds  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  find 
several  different  forms  all  blossoming  within  a 
very  limited  area.  On  one  occasion  the  writer, 
in  company  with  a  friend,  gathered  seven  varieties 
on  a  single  hill.  Cam  Brea,  in  Cornwall,  and  the 
same  thing  has  been  noted  on  the  Derbyshire 
hills.  There  are,  however,  several  autumn- 
flowering  forms  of  Heather  and  two  of  Gorse. 
The  Heather  to  select  is  that  known  as  Erica 
cinerea.  This  has  rich  reddish  purple  flowers, 
but  there  are  forms  with  red,  purple,  white  and 
scarlet  blossoms.  The  planter  can,  of  course, 
consult  his  own  taste  as  to  whether  he  will  be 
content  to  plant  the  type  only,  or  will  go  to  the 
greater  expense  of  obtaining  the  varieties. 

The  two  species  of  autumn-flowering  Gorse  are 
Ulex  Gallii  {the  French  Gorse)  and  U.  nanus  (the 
dwarf  Gorse).  Although  when  seen  side  by  side 
they  are  as  different  as  they  can  possibly  be,  the 
latter  is  frequently  mistaken  for  the  former. 
U.  Gallii  is  distinguished  by  its  compact  habit, 
strong,  ferocious  spines  and  large  flowers  ;  and 
U.  nanus  by  its  looser  growth,  soft  shoots, 
comparatively  soft  spines  and  small  flowers. 
Clumps  of  U.  Gallii  look  as  if  they  were  kept 
cropped  over,  and  when  in  blossom  present  dense, 
cushion-like  masses  of  rich  gold  9  inches  or 
1  foot  high.  The  rich  gold  of  these  flowers 
intermingled  with  the  red  and  purple  of  the 
other  plants,  spreading  over  an  area  many  acres 
in  extent,  is  a  sight  not  easily  forgotten,  and 
even  when  practised  on  a  small  scale  in  gardens 
few  things  better  repay  the  trouble. 

When  planting  it  must,  however,  be  borne  in 
mind  that  formality  must  be  avoided,  and  the 
more  natural-looking  the  masses  are  made  the 
better  the  result  will  be.  A  large  breadth  of 
Heather  of  irregular  outline  may  have  the  margin 
broken  with  a  patch  of  Gorse,  or  a  mass  of  Gorse 
may  be  allowed  to  join  with  a  patch  of  Ling  by 
means  of  a  deeply  broken  margin  ;  in  a  large 
mass  of  one  thing  two  or  three  plants  of  another 
may  be  introduced,  as  if  they  had  sprung  from 
naturally  sown  seeds,  and  so  on.  The  best  way 
to  deal  with  the  Gorse  is  to  obtain  seeds  and  sow 
two  or  three  in  a  3-inch  pot.  The  young  plants 
should  not  be  disturbed  until  they  can  be 
planted  in  permanent  quarters,  for  they  are  very 
impatient  of  root  disturbance.  Several  thousands 
of  pots  occupy  but  a  small  area,  and  they  can 
be  plunged  out  of  doors.  It  is  impossible  to 
obtain  large  stocks  of  plants  of  this  species  from 
nurserymen.  D. 


September  18,  1909.J 


THE    GARDEN. 


457 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN. 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

THE  FRUIT -ROOM. —This  is  indis- 
putably one  of  the  most  important 
adjuncts  of  the  garden  in  which  fruit 
is  grown  in  any  appreciable  quantity. 
It  must  not  be  inferred  that  it  is 
absolutely  indispensable,  for  such  is 
by  no  means  the  case  ;  but  where  there  is  a  bulk 
of  fruit  demanding  storage,  practically  every 
season  it  becomes  necessary,  since  it  is  only  by  its 
aid  that  we  can  provide  adequate  accommodation. 
For  those  who  have  small  amounts  to  handle  a 
room  in  a  dwelling-house  which  can  be  kept  dark, 
frost-proof,  at  an  equable  temperature  and  is 
readily  ventilated,  will  answer  the  purpose 
admirably  ;  but  I  have  no  sympathy  with  that 
form  of  storage  which  consigns  the  Apples  to  a 
more  or  less  happy  resting-place  underneath  the 
bed.  There  will  shortly  be  a  great  ingathering 
of  fruit  that  will  keep  for  many  weeks,  or  even 
months,  and  it  is  necessary  that  the  fruit-room 
shall  be  prepared  for  its  reception.  Its  atmo- 
sphere must  be  perfectly  sweet,  since  if  it  is 
impure  it  will  quickly  taint  ripening  fruit,  and 
its  shelves  and  walls  must  be  scrupulously  clean. 
If  such  preparatory  operations  as  this  have  not 
been  commenced,  let  them  be  attended  to  at  once, 
as  it  is  most  unwise  to  leave  them  until  the  fruit 
is  waiting  at  the  door  and  cannot  be  brought  in 
simply  because  the  place  is  dirty.  Take  advantage 
of  the  first  day  when  the  weather  is  unfavourable 
for  outdoor  work  and  put  the  fruit-room  into 
that  condition  of  cleanliness  which  will  make  it 
a  pleasure  to  enter  and  suitable  for  the  reception 
of  the  valuable  fruit  that  will  have  to  go  in  it. 

Gathering  Fkuit. — The  harvesting  of  the 
earlier  Apples  and  Pears  should  proceed  apace 
as  the  fruit  becomes  ready  for  removal  from  the 
tree.  There  is  not  the  slightest  need  to  rush 
matters  of  this  sort,  for  these  varieties  keep 
better  on  the  trees  than  they  do  off  them,  and  as 
long,  therefore,  as  they  will  hang  on  the  spurs 
leave  them  there,  except  for  such  as  are  needed 
for  immediate  use.  Directly  they  are  gathered 
let  them  be  used,  for  the  Apples  lose  their  flavour 
and  the  Pears  soon  go  rotten  when  once  they  are 
picked.  It  is  imperative,  although  it  is  not  pur- 
posed to  attempt  to  keep  them  for  any  length  of 
time,  that  each  fruit  shall  be  handled  with  proper 
care,  and  as  though  it  were  really  a  thing  of 
value,  and  not  as  if  it  were  a  stone,  as  one 
too  commonly  sees.  Place  the  fruits  separately 
in  the  basket,  and  when  the  time  comes  for 
taking  them  out  again  deal  with  them  as  indi- 
viduals. All  this  may  mean  that  a  little  longer 
time  will  be  necessary  in  the  task,  but  it  will 
spell  the  full  value  ot  the  fruit  to  the  careful 
grower. 

Root-pruning. — To  induce  trees  which  make 
too  much  wood  at  the  expense  of  flowers  and 
fruit  to  assume  or  return  to  a  bearing  condition  by 
root-pruning  is  not  always  as  easy  as  it  sounds  at 
first.  Many  things  have  to  be  taken  into  con- 
sideration before  the  operation  is  put  in  hand, 
and  when  it  is  in  process  the  utmost  care  and 
judgment  are  imperative  in  order  to  ensure 
success.  Those  who  are  quite  inexperienced 
would  be  well  advised  in  seeking  the  advice  of  a 
professional  gardener,  who  would  say  exactly  what 
ought  or  ought  not  to  be  done  ;  but  if  that  is 
impossible,  the  amateur  must  necessarily  rely 
upon  himself.  If  the  tree  were  planted  last  autumn 
and  has  grown  too  rankly  it  almost  invariably 
suffices  to  lift  it  and  at  once  replant,  since  this 
simple  action  usually  serves  to  check  the  roots, 
but  older  trees  must  have  a  trench  formed  3  feet 
or  thereabouts  from  the  bole  and  all  strong  roots 
that  are  seen  when  cutting  down  should  be  cut 
off  smoothly  with  a  sharp  knife.  With  old  trees 
that  have  become  established  it  will  be  advisable 
to  do  this  work  in  two  seasons,  taking  one  side 
of  the  tree  in  the  first  year  and  the  other  side 
early  in  the  following  autumn  ;  but  with  younger 


specimens  it  is  an  excellent  practice  to  cut  all 
round  in  one  operation. 

Cordon  Trees. — In  response  to  the  expressed 
wishes  of  several  correspondents,  the  ' '  Fruit 
Notes"  in  the  succeeding  two  or  three  issues 
will  be  exclusively  devoted  to  the  formation 
and  maintenance  of  the  different  forms  of 
cordons.  Frdit-grower. 


THE   FLOWER  GARDEN. 


THE  GLAMOUR  OF  THE  TULIP. 

1  THINK  I  have  hit  upon  the  right  word  in 
which  to  sum  up  the  peculiar  fascination 
of  the  Tulip.  Had  I  been  writing  of  the 
Rose,  the  Carnation  or  the  Daffodil  I 
would  never  have  written  glamour.  It 
would  have  been  as  inappropriate  in  their 
case  as  it  is  appropriate  in  the  case  of  the  brilliant 


delight  in  dressing  up  in  bright  clothes  and 
attending  daily,  at  a  certain  Devonshire 
watering-place  where  I  was  passing  the  winter 
with  my  invalid  mother,  a  High  Church  service — 
the  same  something  that  to-day  makes  me  give 
Burma,  that  land  of  living  Tulips,  a  peculiar 
warm  corner  in  my  heart.  It  is  a  long  time 
since  the  first  Fairy  Queen  bloomed  in  my  garden. 
I  am  now  on  far  more  intimate  terms  with  this 
ancient  family,  and  I  know  very  many  more  of 
its  members,  and  so  far  from  distance  lending 
enchantment  the  reverse  is  the  case.  A  closer 
acquaintance  is  all  the  time  revealing  subtle  and 
unexpected  attributes  ;  the  unceasing  change  of 
colour  as  sunshine  and  cloud  alternate  on  an 
April  or  May  morning ;  the  beautiful  hazes  as 
one  looks  down  into  the  individual  flowers  and 
sees  anything  in  colour  from  the  almost  black 
peacock  green  of  ixioides  to  the  pure  white  of 
Loveliness,  and  in  form  almost  every  conceivable 
kind  of  star  and  cross. 


DARWIN   TULIPS   DNDER   PROTECTION.      FIFTY   CHOICE   VARIETIES   IN   A   BED. 


Tulip.  This  very  Eastern  flower  has  so  much  of 
the  spirit  of  the  East  in  its  composition  that  the 
same  word  which  current  phraseology  uses  to 
describe  the  strange  power  of  Asiatic  lands  to 
attract  and  entrance  seems  quite  natural  to  use  in 
its  case  too.  Mystery  and  gorgeousness  are 
united  in  this  flower.  They  stand  out  as  its  pro- 
minent characteristics.  The  un-get-at-ableness 
of  an  Indian  mind  has  its  counterpart  in  the 
seemingly  insoluble  problems  which  confront  the 
enquirer  as  he  begins  to  cast  about  for  a  solution. 
The  brilliance  and  magnificence  of  Oriental  state 
are  paralleled  in  the  simple  barbaric  splendour 
of  a  great  bed  of  Vermilion  Brilliant  or  Mr. 
Farnoombe  Sanders.  It  needs  the  very  brightest 
of  Western  suns  to  bring  out  their  full  glory,  and 
a  spectator  with  something  of  the  ' '  Clamour  of 
the  East "  about  him  to  appreciate  it. 

I  have  been  in  Holland  with  a  friend  who 
would  hardly  look  at  the  masses  of  brilliance 
which  the  fields  of  Haarlem  and  Hillegom  display 
when  the  unnumberless  numbers  of  their  early 
Tulips  are  in  the  zenith  of  their  bloom.  He  could 
not  understand  the  exclamations  of  surprise  and 
delight  that  the  solid  masses  of  vivid  colour  drew 
from  me  as  we  passed  from  one  large  flat  to 
another.  Some  day  the  glamour  of  the  Tulip 
may  conquer  him,  and  he  will  go  to  Holland  and 
see  the  great  sight  with  new  eyes. 

It  is  very  wonderful,  when  we  think  of  it,  how 
the  same  spirit  can  show  itself  in  so  many 
different  and  unexpected  ways.  In  going  over 
my  Tulip  life  and  trying  to  find  a  reason  for  my 
original  purchase  of  a  small  collection  of  Cottage 
Tulips,  I  can  only  think  it  was  the  same 
something    that    made    me  as  a  child    take  a 


I  can  truly  say  the  rigid  florist  loses  much, 
even  if  he  gains  greater  purity  of  colour  in  the 
petal,  in  limiting  his  ideals  to  perfectly  flawless 
white  or  yellow  centres.  Again,  as  we  pass 
from  the  mass  and  look  at  the  individual  flower 
"  the  fine  vase-like  curvatures"  of  alba  elegans 
or  La  Merveille  appeal  to  our  sense  of  form  by 
their  severe  but  simple  beauty.  Then  there  is 
the  glorious  uncertainty  of  novelty.  All  at  once 
we  may  fiud  a  Village  Boy  in  a  mass  of  Cottage 
Maid,  or  a  bright  little  Scotia  in  a  bed  of 
Caledonia. 

I  have  to  confess  that  so  far  I  have  never  had 
anything  but  failures  when  I  have  tried  to  raise 
new  varieties  from  seed ;  either  it  has  not 
germinated,  or  long  before  they  could  fight  for 
themselves  the  little  mites  have  fallen  a  prey  to 
slugs  or  disease.  And  yet  I  had  an  old  gardener 
neighbour  who  used  to  sow  the  seed  and  rear  its 
progeny  quite  easily.  All  he  seemed  to  do  was 
first  to  open  the  pod  and  put  it  a  few  inches 
below  the  surface  in  the  shaded  corner  of  his 
trimly  kept  garden,  where  was  the  burying- 
place  of  his  favourite  pets.  I  got  the  fine  deep 
yellow  Annie  from  him,  and  it  always  rather 
rankles  in  my  mind  that  catalogue-makers  will 
put  it  down  as  a  synonym  for  Parisian  Yellow. 
Why  ?  The  two  are  as  different  as  possible,  not 
only  in  the  shade  of  their  yellow,  but  in  the 
style  of  their  foliage  and  in  their  vigour  of 
growth.  At  the  present  time  I  grow  a  large 
collection,  including  species,  Darwins,  Rem- 
brandts.  Parrots,  early-flowering  double  and 
single,  Cottage  and  a  few  Old  English  or  florists. 
It  occupies  about  half  an  acre,  and  is  especially 
rich  in  Cottagers  and  Darwins. 


458 


THE     GARDEN. 


September  18,  1909 


Last  spring  was  one  of  the  very  best  that  I 
can  remember.  Hardly  a  bloom  was  spotted  or 
a  leaf  disfigured  with  "fire."  The  screens  (one 
of  which  can  be  seen  in  the  illustration  on 
page  456),  no  doubt,  helped  to  bring  about  this 
happy  state  of  affairs ;  but  without  them  the 
weather  was  so  favourable  that  I  think  I  would 
have  had  a  grand  show.  My  worst  enemies  are 
slugs,  cold  winds  and  hail.  To  checkmate  the 
former  I  give  all  the  beds  a  heavy  dusting  of  soot  in 
late  autumn  just  before  I  make  them  snug  for  the 
winter  with  a  thin  covering  of  "grigg. "  To  be 
prepared  for  the  latter  I  have  slightly  wider 
alleys  left,  so  that  I  can  put  up  the  curtains 
or  wind  screens  of  coir  netting.  This  is 
made  in  Maidstone,  and  is  what  is  used  for 
protecting  the  Hops  in  Kent.  I  could  say  a 
good  deal  about  its  utility  for  many  garden 
purposes,  but  I  must  not  digress  any  more.  My 
allotted  space  is  almost  all  taken  up,  and  I  have 
just  to  allude  to  my  rather  rough,  but  all  the  same 
effective,  shelter  which  is  illustrated  on  page  4.57. 
Tulips  remain  in  perfection  very  much  longer 
with  some  covering,  and  I  always  arrange  for 
from  two  to  four  long  beds  to  have  it  every  year. 
Then,  if  the  worst  comes,  there  will  be  a  few 


Under  cultivation  they  will  thrive  in  shady 
portions  of  the  rock  garden  planted  in  a  mixture 
of  peat,  loam  and  leaf-soil,  with  enough  sharp 
sand  to  keep  it  open.  While  they  cannot  be 
classed  among  the  most  showy  plants,  there  is  a 
certain  charm  which  makes  them  very  interesting 
and  attractive.  The  one  illustrated  on  page  459, 
C.  umbellata,  is  most  frequently  met  with,  and 
it  increases  freely  when  planted  in  suitable 
positions,  but  the  others  are  somewhat  more  rare 
in  gardens.     The  most  attractive  in  flower  is 

C.  andrewsiana,  a  plant  that  is  found  on  the 
coast  range  of  California.  It  was  introduced 
into  cultivation  about  ten  years  ago,  and  has 
two  or  three  basal  leaves  6  inches  to  12  inches 
long  and  from  2  inches  to  4  inches  broad. 
From  these  rise  the  stem  18  inches  high, 
bearing  at  the  top  a  dense  umbel  of  deep  rose- 
coloured  flowers. 

O.  borealis  comes  from  the  Northern  United 
States  and  Canada,  and  is  always  found  in  deep, 
cold  woods.  The  leaves  are  large,  while  the 
greenish  white  flowers  are  borne  in  loose  umbels 
on  stems  about  a  foot  high. 

G.  umbellata. — The  illustration  is  of  a  plant 
that  has  'beerf  grown  in  a  pan  [  in  a  cold  frame. 


A    GOOD   TLOWER    AND    BUDS   OF   THE    LYON    ROSE. 


flowers  which  will  assuage,  if  they  do  not  entirely 
satisfy,  my  yearly  hunger.  The  wooden  part  of 
the  erection  is  made  in  the  autumn,  and  the 
covering  is  a  large  loose  sheet  of  wrapping  made 
to  put  on  and  take  off  with  tapes — primitive  in- 
deed when  compared  to  the  splendid  shelter  that  I 
saw  in  Mr.  Needham's  garden  this  spring,  but 
very  serviceable.  Joseph  Jacob. 


THE  CLINTONIAS  AND  THEIK 
CULTUKE. 
The  name  Clintonia  has  been  applied  to  members 
of  two  widely  different  families  of  plants.  The 
one  to  which  the  name  rightly  belongs  is  a  genus 
of  the  Natural  Order  Liliaceaj,  and  consists  of 
about  half-a-dozen  species,  of  which  four  are 
North  American,  while  two  come  from  Eastern 
Asia.  The  other  genus  to  which  the  name 
Clintonia  has  been  commonly  applied  is  a  member 
of  the  Campanula  order,  namely,  Downingia,  a 
tamily  of  small-growing,  elegant  annuals  closely 
resembling  Lobelia.  The  Ciintonias  are  low- 
growing  perennials  closely  allied  to  the  Trilliums 
and  Paris  quadrifolia,  and,  like  those  plants,  are 
generally  found  growing  in  ^mp,  shady  woods. 


This  plant  is  well  adapted  for  such  treatment, 
and  is  a  useful  and  pretty  subject  for  the  alpine 
house.  In  the  rock  garden  this  species  spreads 
by  means  of  its  underground  stems,  and  the 
blue  berries  which  follow  the  flowers  are  very 
decorative.  C.  umbellata  has  smaller  pure  white 
flowers  in  a  denser  umbel  than  C.  borealis, 
but  is  similar  in  other  respects.  It  comes 
from  the  woody  mountains  of  Virginia  and 
Kentucky. 

O.  uniflora  is  a  native  of  North-western 
America,  and  has  similar  leaves  to  the  above,  but 
they  are  more  pubescent.  The  flowers  are  borne 
singly,  or  rarely  two,  on  a  short  peduncle, 
and  are  white  in  colour,  followed  by  a  blue 
berry. 

C.  alpina  is  found  in  forests  on  the  Eastern 
Himalayas  at  an  elevation  of  from  8,000  feet  to 
12,000  feet.  It  grows  about  a  foot  high,  with 
broad  leaves  and  umbels  of  white  flowers.  Closely 
allied  to  this,  and  considered  by  some  to  be 
identical,  is 

C.  udetms,  which  is  found  both  in  China  and 
Japan.  It  has  somewhat  larger  flowers  of  the 
same  colour,  which  are  also  followed  by  black  | 
berries.  W.  I. 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN. 

NOTES    ON    NEWER   ROSES.— II. 

(Continued  Jrom  page  .f-14-J 
Hybrid  Perpbtoals. 

THE  Hybrid  Perpetuals  among  newer 
Roses  are  few  and  far  between  ;  in  a 
list  of  the  newer  Roses  published  in 
the  National  Rose  Society's  Annual 
for  1909,  compiled  by  the  publica- 
tions committee  and  numbering 
nearly  ninety  distinct  varieties,  there  is  only 
one  Hybrid  Perpetual — Dr.  William  Gordon,  a 
1905  variety — and  going  through  my  notes  to 
look  for  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  is  almost  like 
searching  for  a  needle  in  the  proverbial  bundle 
of  hay.  Surely  the  possibilities  among  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  have  not  been  exhausted. 
No  doubt  the  tendency  to  run  down  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  as  a  class  has  something  to  answer 
for  in  this  connexion,  and  so  some  raisers  with 
the  slightest  excuse  label  their  new  productions 
Hybrid  Teas  rather  than  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
which  I  think  is  a  great  pity,  for  more  reasons 
than  one ;  but  we  must  take  things  as  we  find 
them,  and  the  new  Rose  suffers  for  the  sins  of 
its  class.  Undoubtedly  "  Hybrid  Perpetual,"  by 
a  curious  paradox,  has  in  the  eyes  of  not  a  few 
rosarians  come  to  mean  once,  or  temporary  flower- 
ing only,  and  not  perpetual  in  theordinary  accepta- 
tion of  the  term  at  all.  We  have  heard  no  more  of 
Mr.  Pemberton's  suggestions  that  the  time  had 
come  for  doing  away  with  the  terms  now  in  use,  nor 
perhaps  are  we  likely  to,  unless  the  proposal  to 
destroy  is  accompanied  by  an  easily  workable 
and  intelligent  scheme  of  reconstruction.  I  have 
no  doubt  when  they  arrive  together  the  thing 
will  be  done  ;  in  the  meantime  we  must  put  up 
with  the  inconsistencies  and  paradoxes  of  the  pre- 
sent arrangement  which  are  manifest.  The  first 
Hybrid  Perpetual  that  I  have  any  note  about  is 

Barbarossa,  sent  out  by  Welter  in  1907  and 
generally  described  in  catalogues  as  a  red  Frau 
Karl  Druschki,  which  is  a  pity,  as  it  has  no 
resemblance  to  Frau  Karl  Druschki  as  we  know 
it.  The  colour  is  not  bad,  but  there  is  a  good 
deal  of  carmine  in  it,  and  I  have  yet  to  see  a  good 
dower  of  it.  I  am  afraid  it  must  join  that 
increasing  army  labelled  "not  wanted."  In 
other  words,  it  ought  not  to  have  been  sent  out. 
That  is  my  own  opinion,  and  I  have  had  it  con- 
firmed in  more  than  one  quarter.  No,  the  red 
Frau  Karl  Druschki  is  yet  to  seek. 

Dr.  William  Oordon. — Sent  out  in  1905  by 
Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Son,  Waltham  Cross. 
This  is  a  big  flower  of  the  old-fashioned  type, 
colour  satin  pink,  that  comes  rather  flat,  although 
£  have  seen  a  high-centred  flower.  Useful  for 
pot  culture,  as  it  seems  free  enough. 

M.  H.  Walsh. — Another  1905  introduction 
raised  by  Messrs.  Alexander  Dickson  and  Sons, 
Newtownards.  This  is  a  good  Rose,  fine  crimson 
colour  with  a  suggestion  of  scarlet  in  the 
younger  flowers  ;  it  comes  good  enough  for  ex- 
hibition when  at  its  best ;  good  habit  of  growth, 
which  is  of  the  kind  usually  termed  "erect." 
Has  been  well  exhibited  by  the  raisers  this  year 
at  more  than  one  show.  I  noticed  a  particularly 
fine  flower  at  Luton.  It  is  good  in  the  autumn, 
which  is  another  advantage,  as  reds  are  then 
scarce.  Its  price  has  reached  the  normal,  so  it 
is  worth  trying. 

Mrs.  A.  M.  Kirher  (1906,  sent  out  by  Hugh 
Dickson  of  Belfast). — A  sweet-scented,  good- 
sized  flower,  clear,  bright  cerise  colour,  that  has 
opened  well  with  me,  notwithstanding  the  wet ; 
rather  a  tall  grower.  It  has  found  its  way  into 
the  exhibition  boxes,  and  I  think  has  come  to  stay. 

Oberhojgartner  A.  Singer  (1905,  P.  Lambert) 
is  another  Rose  that  I  think  we  can  do  without, 
it  having  nothing  especially  to  recommend  it. 

Urania  (1906,  Walsh). — This  is  a  giant;  my 
solitary  plant  has  had  some  tremendous  flowers  that 
would  make  even  the  old  Paul  Neyron  look  small. 
It  is  a  similar  shade  of  colour  to  Ulrioh  Brunner, 


September  18,  1909.] 


THE     GAEDEN. 


459 


sbghtly  deeper  perhaps,  so  might  be  called  cherry 
orimson  ;  a  good  grower  apparently.  I  have  not 
seen  it  exhibited,  but  have  little  doubt  when  better 
known,  as  it  deserves  to  be,  it  will  be  found  among 
the  back-row  flowers  in  the  exhibition  boxes. 

This  completes  the  newer  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
as  far  as  my  notes  are  concerned.  A  Continental 
eorreapondent  tells  me  I  should  try  Gloire  de 
Chedane  Guinoisseau,  and  describes  it  as  true 
vermilion  in  colour,  of  good  shape  that  should 
do  well  in  England,  but  I  can  get  no  confirmation 
of  his  report  among  the  trade  growers.  I  also 
heard  there  was  another  Jules  Gravereaux  that 
was  likely  to  be  useful — a  Monsieur  this  time, 
I  presume — but  I  almost  hope  it  is  not  so ; 
two  names  only  distinguished  by  a  prefix  that 
is  often  left  out  will  only  lead  to  confusion. 

Of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  then,  I  can  anly 
recommend  two  as  worthy  of  a 
trial,  or,  at  the  most,  three — 
M.  H.  Walsh,  Mrs.  A.  M.  Kirker 
and  Urania — the  product  of  the 
world's  raisers  during  the  last 
four  years,  not  an  overproduction, 
at  any  rate.  There  will  be  a 
different  tale  to  tell  with  the 
Hybrid  Teas,  which  I  will  deal 
with  in  my  next  article. 

Purley.        H.  E.  Molyneu.k. 


Lyon  Rose,  Mme.  Segond  Weber,  Dorothy 
Page-Roberts,  Earl  of  Warwick,  Mrs.  Isabelle 
Milner,  Dora,  Hugh  Dickson,  Ecarlate,  Gustave 
Grunerwald,  Gloire  de  Chedane  Guinoisseau, 
Grace  Molyneux,  Hector  Mackenzie,  Betty, 
Kronprinzessin  Ceeilie,  Lady  Ashtown,  Mme. 
P.  Euler,  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward,  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill, 
Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell,  Rene  Wilmart  Urban,  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert,  Lady  Ursula,  Andre  Gamon, 
.Joseph  Hill,  John  Cuflf,  Dr.  O'Donel  Browne, 
Friedriohsruh,  Mrs.  A.  Westmacott,  General 
Macarthur,  W.  R.  Smith,  Walter  Speed,  Charlotte 
Klemm,  Aennchen  MuUer  and  Mrs.  W.  H. 
Cutbush.  Among  ramblers  you  will  find  Gold- 
finch, Tausendschon,  Coquina,  White  Dorothy 
and  American  Pillar  distinct  and  beautiful. 


THE     GREENHOUSE 


4  M( 

A 


NOTES    ON  [ORCHIDS. 

CreLOGYNES. 

MONG    the    six    most   popular 


SIX  most  popular  Orchids 
given  recently  in  The  Garden  was 
Ccelogyne  eristata,  a  well-known  and 
deservedly  popular  subject,  as  it 
furnishes  a  supply  of  beautiful  arch- 
ing sprays  in  the  early  spring  when 
white-flowered  Orchids  are  none  too  plentiful ;  but 
this  species  by  no  means  exhausts  the  good  things 
contained  in  the  genus  quoted  above.  C.  pandu- 
rata  always  attracts  attention; 


THE  LYON  ROSE. 
This  remarkable  Rose  continues 
to  create  a  great  deal  of  interest, 
and  rightly  so,  as  it  is  one  of  the 
most  lovely  and  distinct  varieties 
that  have  ever  been  introduced. 
As  a  pillar  Rose  it  will  doubtless 
prove  very  valuable  indeed,  as  it 
is  of  a  vigorous,  free-growing 
character,  and  its  handsome, 
pinkish  yellow  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  abundance.  In  addition 
to  their  unique  colour  combina- 
tion the  blossoms  are  large,  very 
fragrant  and  of  exquisite  shape, 
as  the  illustration  on  page  458 
will  show.  The  photograph  was 
taken  in  Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and 
Co.'s  nursery  early  in  August, 
and  at  the  time  of  gathering 
the  large  bloom  was  a  perfect 
specimen.  H. 

SOME     NEW     AND     OLD 
ROSES  SUITABLE  FOR 
WINDY  GARDENS. 
[/«  Reply  to  "  K.   E.  /."] 

I  QUITE  understand  your  difficulty, 
for  it  is  very  distressing  to  see 
one's  Roses  bruised  and  spoilt  by 
strong  gales.  In  such  a  garden  I 
advise  several  rows  of  shelter 
hurdles,  placed  at  intervals  of 
about  20  feet.  What  are  known 
as  wattled  hurdles  are  best.  They 
are  splendid  and  may  be  quickly 
covered  with  the  charming 
wichuraiana  Roses,  which,  planted  at  intervals  of 
6  feet  or  8  feet,  would  cover  them  with  foliage  in 
one  season.  I  naturally  advise  bush  Roses  for 
such  a  windy  garden  as  yours.  If  planted  about 
3  feet  apart,  you  could  partly  peg  down  some  of 
the  growths,  which  would  tend  to  keep  the  plants 
dwarf  and  thus  benefit  by  the  screens.  On  the 
screens  some  of  the  lovely  perpetual-flowering 
Roses  could  be  planted,  especially  those  from  the 
China  and  Tea-scented  sections. 

Among  the  comparatively  new  Roses  for  your 
garden,  which  is  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Bristol  Channel,  I  can  recommend  the  following 
for  their  freedom  of  growth  and  good  flowering 
qualities.  They  are  not  grouped  in  any  order  of 
merit,  but  you  can  rely  upon  all  being  good. 
Chateau  a  Clos  Vougeot,  Harry  Kirk,  Elizabeth 
Barnes,  Laurent  Carle,  Mme.  Maurice  de  Luze, 


,     ts  large,  pale 
Coming  to  the  old  Roses,  there  are  so  many   green  flowers,  with  the  lips  blotched  and  marked 
that  it  is  difficult  to  advise,  and 'T  do  not  know    with  black,  produce  a  most  striking  contrast.  \ 

Other  showy  plants  are  '  C. 
graminifolia,  C.  ocellata,  C. 
asperata  (Lowii),  C.  barbata, 
C.  rossiana  and  C.  speciosa. 
From  the  union  of  the  last-named 
and  C.  eristata  a  hybrid  has  been 
raised  in  the  establishment  of 
Sir  J.  Colman,  which  is  interest- 
ing, owing  to  the  fact  that  it  is 
the  only  hybrid  Ccelog3Tie  knowr. 
As  a  general  rule  the  spikes  are 
erect,  but  with  C.  dayana,  C. 
tomentosa  and  C.  massangeana 
they  are  pendulous,  and  for  this 
reason  they  should  be  suspended 
from  the  roof,  where  the  long 
chains  of  ochre  yellow  blossoms 
present  a  pretty  sight. 

Cultural  Details.  —  With  few 
exceptions  all  may  be  grown  in 
the  intermediate  house,  where  the 
temperature  fluctuates  between 
.55°  and  65°  Fahr.,  the  former 
being  registered  at  night  and  the 
latter  about  midday ;  but  if  at 
any  time  we  get  a  spell  of  frosty 
weather,  it  will  be  advisable  Vo 
permit  the  temperature  to  fall  a 
few  degrees  rather  than  employ 
excessive  flre  -  heat.  A  moist, 
buoyant  atmosphere  is  required 
during  the  summer  months  while 
the  plants  are  in  active  condition, 
and  a  little  ventilation,  either 
from  the  top  or  bottom  ventila- 
tors, is  also  beneficial  to  clean 
and  healthy  growth.  The  repot- 
ting takes  place  directly  roots  are 
seen  at  the  base  of  the  partly 
developed  new  shoot,  but  this 
operation  will  only  be  necessary 
about  every  third  year,  an  annual 
top-dressing,  such  as  pricking  in  a 
portion  of  fresh  material  where  it 
has  decayed  or  become  sour,  and 
not  conducive  to  root-action, 
usually  sufficing.  If  a  collection 
of  Ccelogynes  is  cultivated,  a 
few  wiU  require  attention  at 
different  periods  of  the  year ; 
but  they  must  be  repotted 
when  ready,  irrespective  of  season  or  orthodox 
methods. 

The  potting  compost  consists  of  Osmunda 
fibre,  peat  and  chopped  sphagnum  moss  in  equal 
parts,  and  it  ought  to  be  pressed  moderately  firm 
among  the  roots,  while  on  no  account  must  the 
soil  be  elevated  above  the  rim  of  bhe  receptacle. 
Ordinary  flower-pots  are  usually  selected,  but  for 
the  smaller-growing  species  pans  without  side 
holes  are  preferable,  and  the  pendulous  varieties 
are  better  adapted  for  basket  culture,  which 
should  have  wire  handles  attached  for  suspending 
them  3  feet  or  4  feet  from  the  roof  glass. 

After  repotting,  the  watering  must  be  carried 
out  in  an  observant  manner,  just  keeping  the 
surface  moist  with  n  flne-rosed  watering-pot  till 
the  roots  are  well  into  the  soil,  when  it  can  be 
increased  with  advantage.  Sentinel. 


A   PLANT   FOR  THE   SHADED  ROCK   OABDBS   (CLINTONIA   UMBELLATA) 


what  you  already  possess,  but  here  are  a  few  that 
should  grow  well  in  your  windswept  garden : 
Antoine  Rivoire,  Augustine  Guinoisseau,  Caro- 
line Testout,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  General 
Jacqueminot,  G.  Nabonnand,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez, 
Mme.  Rivary,  La  Tosoa,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
Ulrich  Brunner,  Mme.  Jean  Dupuy,  Mrs. 
John  Laing,  Prince  de  Bulgarie,  Viscountess 
Folkestone,  Admiral  Dewey,  Charles  Lefebvre, 
Amateur  Teyssier,  Anna  Olivier,  Marie  van 
Houtte,  Captain  Hayward,  Boule  de  Neige, 
Elise  BosUe,  Clio,  Commandant  Felix  Faure,  Dr. 
Andry,  Dr.  Grill,  Dupuy  Jamain,  Florence 
Pemberton,  Grace  Darling,  H.  Sehultheis,  Lady 
Roberts,  Mme.  A.  Mari,  Mme.  Edmee  Metz, 
Mme.  Hoste,  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  La  France,  La 
France  de  '89,  Mme.  Lambard,  Mme.  Pernet- 
Duoher,  Mme.  Wagram  and  Peace.  P. 


460 


THE     GARDEN. 


[September  18,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— The  recent  spell 
of  cold  weather  and  rain  has  had  a  bad 
effect  upon  many  kinds  of  bedding-out 
plants,  more  especially  Zonal  Pelar- 
goniums. During  the  past  few  years 
many  plants  of  the  semi  -  double 
flowering  varieties  have  been  used  in  the  beds 
in  the  flower  garden  ;  but  they  have  not 
been  a  success  this  season,  owing  to  the  cold 
weather  and  the  frequent  rains,  as  the  blossoms 
have  damped  off  badly.  However,  on  this 
account  it  is  not  wise  to  cease  planting  them  in 
the  beds,  as  other  seasons  may  be  more  favour- 
able and  the  massive  trusses  certainly  look  very 
well.  The  clearing  away  of  all  fading  flowers 
and  leaves  must  be  regularly  attended  to,  as 
cleanliness  at  this  season  of  the  year  is  needed 
more  than  at  any  other,  because  of  the  quick 
fading  of  the  flowers  and  foliage.  The  present  is 
a  good  time  to  put  in  cuttings  of  Calceolarias. 
These  plants  brighten  up  a  flower  garden  wonder- 
fully well,  and  as  the  rooted  cuttings  are 
comparatively  easy  to  keep  through  the  winter, 
a  good  stock  ofcuttings  should  be  inserted  now. 


I. — STICK     SUITABLE      FOB     TYING     ONIONS 
FOB  THE  PUBPOSK   OF   STOBING   THEM. 


Those  shoots  growing  near  the  base  of  the  parent 
plants  are  the  ones  to  select  ;  they  must  not 
contain  flower-buds  and  should  be  about  3  inches 
or  4  inches  long.  Strip  off  the  lower  leaves  and 
sever  the  stem  with  a  sharp  knife,  then  insert  the 
cuttings  4  inches  apart  each  way  in  a  firm,  sandy 
compost  in  a  low,  cool  frame.  Give  one  thorough 
watering,  then  keep  the  frame  closed  and  shaded 
for  a  few  days  afterwards. 

Vegetable  Garden. — If  the  weather  comes  very 
cold  and  is  dull,  all  Tomatoes  that  are  approach- 
ing ripeness  must  be  carefully  gathered  and  laid 
out  thinly  on  paper  in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  frame 
to  properly  mature.  If  left  on  the  plants  in  such 
circumstances  they  would  probably  split  badly 
and  then  commence  to  decay.  All  ripening 
Asparagus  must  be  cut  forthwith,  and  the  tops, 
as  well  as  any  weeds  that  may  be  found  among 
them,  taken  away  and  burned.  After  this 
work  has  been  done,  no  attempt  should  be  made 
to  trim  the  edges  of  the  beds  very  soon,  as  seeds 
of  weeds  would  be  buried  and  give  trouble  next 
spring.  Wait  awhile,  then  the  seeds  will 
germinate  on  the  surface  and  the  seedlings  may 
be  destroyed  wholesale  with  the  Dutch  hoe. 
The  first  trenching  of  vacant  ground  may  now 
be  commenced,  and,  in  the  case  of  heavy  soils, 
well-rotted  manure  may  be  put  in,  but  not  in 
light  soils.  Now,  the  inexperienced  person 
must  remember  that,  in  order  to  do  the  trenching 
in  a  proper  way,  the  soil  must  be  turned  over 
to  a  depth  of  about  30  inches  or  36  inches,  that 
the  subsoil  must  be  well  broken  up  but  left 
below,  and  that  the  top  soil  must  be  left  in  a 
rough,  lumpy  state. 

Fruit  Garden.  —  The  sunshine  during  the 
early  autumn  must  have  free  access  to  the 
branches  and  buds  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees,  so 
that  they  may  be  thoroughly  ripened.  The 
summer  pruning  of  fruit  trees  is  now  carried  out 
more  generally  than  it  used  to  be,  even  within 
the  last  generation  ;  and  as  many  shoots  grow 
afterwards  which  tend  to  cause  overcrowding 
if  not  pinched  off,  the  first  opportunity  should  be 
taken  to  remove  these  lateral  growths.  Leaves 
falling  from  fruit  trees,  and  especially  those 
from  bush  fruits,  must  be  raked  up  and  burned 
every  week,  as  there  are,  generally,  so  many 
injurious  insects  in  them. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Pot  Amaryllis  now  in 
fibrous  loam  and  leaf -soil  in  equal  proportions,  and 
add  a  7-inch  potful  of  sand  to  a  bushel  of  the 
compost.  If  there  is  a  propagating-frame  in  the 
house,  remove  the  glass  light  or,  if  fixed,  prop  it 
up  and  plunge  the  newly  potted  plants  in  a  gentle 
bottom-heat  ;  new  roots  will  quickly  enter  the 
fresh  soil.  Batches  of  Primulas  in  warm  frames 
may  now  be  put  into  their  flowering  pots  for 
earliest  use,  and  those  for  succession  must  also 
be  given  larger  pots.  Friable  loam,  leaf-soil  and 
sand,  with  some  dried,  sifted  cow-manure  and  a 
small  quantity  of  old  mortar  rubble  form  a  good 
compost.  All  frame-lights  and  front  ventilators 
of  greenhouses  must  be  closed  at  night  for  the 
future  season.  B. 

HOW  TO  ROPE  ONIONS. 
The  Onion  crop  is  usually  regarded  as  one  of  the 
most  important  in  the  majority  of  gardens,  and 
rightly  so,  as  the  uses  to  which  this  pungent 
bulb  can  be  put  are  very  numerous  indeed. 
Even  when  a  good  crop  is  secured  it  frequently 
happens  that  there  is  a  shortage  during  the  late 
winter  and  spring  months,  many  bulbs  decaying 
during  the  dull  days  of  November  and  December. 
Generally  speaking,  the  cause  of  Onions  decaying 
is  due  to  one  of  two  things,  or  both  may  be 


2. — PABT  OF  A  BOPE  OF  ONIONS   SHOWING  HOW 
THE   BULBS   ABB   BOUND   TO   THE   STICK. 

contributory  causes.  These  are  overfeeding  and 
improper  harvesting  and  storing.  As  it  is  now 
too  late  to  avoid  the  former  evil,  it  is  not  of 
much  use  to  go  into  any  detail  respecting  it 
except  to  say  that  overfeeding  with  nitrogenous 
manures  causes  the  bulbs  to  grow  quickly  but 
flabby.  Harvesting  is  now  in  full  swing  in  most 
localities,  and  many  beginners  in  gardening  may 
probably  be  puzzled  over  what  is  known  as 
"  roping." 

When  Onions  are  ready  for  pulling,  their  tops 
will  be  bent  over  at  the  neck  or  just  above  the 
top  of  the  bulb,  and  when  the  latter  is  given  a 
light  pull,  sideways,  it  should  come  away 
moderately  easy  from  the  soil.  After  being 
pulled  the  Onions  are  either  laid  out  to  dry  and 
the  dead  tops  eventually  removed  previous  to 
storing  the  bulbs  thinly  in  some  cool  outhouse  or 
shed,  or  else  tied  up  in  bunches  or  roped. 
Undoubtedly,  where  a  lot  of  space  is  not  avail- 
able, the  two  latter  are  the  best  methods  to 
adopt  and  the  last-named  the  best  of  these  two. 

A  simple  style  of  roping  consists  of  tying  the 
Onions  tightly  to  a  stout  stick  so  that  air  can 
reach  practically  every  bulb,  and  a  stick  2  feet  or 
rather  more  in  length  will  take  nearly  half  a  bushel 


September  18, 1909, 


THE    GAEDEN. 


461 


of  Onions ;  henoeitwill  beseenthat  a  largequantity 
can  be  successfully  stored  in  a  small  space.  To 
make  the  subject  quite  clear,  two  sticks  suitable 
for  the  purpose  are  shown  in  Fig.  1  ;  that  on  the 
right  is  a  natural  piece  of  wood  obtained  from  a 
strong  Pea-stick,  and  that  on  the  left  is  an 
ordinary  length  of  deal  somewhat  sparsely 
studded  with  projecting  nails.  It  will  be  noticed 
that  the  one  on  the  right  has  short  spurs  pro- 
jecting from  it.  These,  or  in  the  ease  of  the 
other,  the  nails,  are  necessary ;  were  smooth 
sticks  used  the  Onions,  when  the  tops  become 
thoroughly  dry,  would  become  loose  and  fall  out, 
but  the  projections  on  the  sticks  shown  prevent 
this.  It  will  be  noticed  that  a  stout  string  is 
tied  near  the  bottom  of  the  one  on  the  right 
which  is  ready  to  receive  the  bulbs. 

Before  proceeding  to  rope  the  Onions,  they 
should  have  been  pulled  two  or  three  days  so  that 
the  tops  have  become  withered  and,  to  some 
extent,  tough.  These  are  then  taken,  a  handful 
at  a  time,  and,  starting  at  the  bottom,  bound 
tightly  to  the  stick,  repeating  the  operation 
until  the  stick  is  filled  and  forms  a  complete  rope 
of  Onions.  Fig.  2,  of  a  partially  filled  stick, 
clearly  shows  the  method  of  doing  the  work 
and  needs  no  further  explanation.  When  com- 
pleted, the  ropes  may  be  hung  up 
in  the  sun  for  some  days  and  then 
transferred  to  a  cool,  airy  place 
where  frost  can  just  be  kept  out. 
Treated  thus  there  is  little  fear 
of  the  bulbs  decaying  prematurely. 


SAVING    SEED    POTATOES. 

The  beginner  must  be  wise  and  take  good  care 
of  his  seed  tubers  when  engaged  in  lifting  the 
crop.  So  many  persona  fail  in  this  respect,  and 
then  they  hastily  blame  the  variety  or  the  soil 
when  the  crops  turn  out  badly.  For  seed  pur- 
poses I  would  much  prefer  a  tuber  under-ripe 
than  very  ripe.  It  is  rare  indeed  that  any 
well-greened  tubers  decay  during  the  winter 
when  they  are  properly  housed  in  cool, 
airy,  light  structures.  When  I  was  a  boy  I 
assisted  my  father  to  lift  some  early  Potatoes  ; 
the  latter  skinned  badly,  and  my  father  decided 
to  leave  the  crop  in  the  ground  a  few  weeks 
longer.  About  a  bushel  of  tubers  had  already 
been  lifted,  and  these  were  spread  out  thinly  on 
the  floor  of  a  loft,  where  they  remained  exposed 
to  the  light  and  air  also,  except  in  frosty 
weather.  Not  a  single  tuber  decayed,  but 
practically  every  one  of  the  remaining  portion  of 
the  crop  did  when  lifted  later  on  in  a  ripe  con- 
dition. Of  course,  this  is  an  isolated  case  ;  but 
for  thirty  years  or  more  since  that  time  I  have 
regularly  saved  seed  from  the  earliest-lifted 
crops,  left  them  to  turn  green  on  mats  in  sheds 
or  under  glass  lights  in  frames,  and  then  stored 


A  HINT  ON  PLANTING 
STRAWBERRIES. 
Although  many  readers  will  by 
this  time  have  planted  their 
Strawberries,  there  will  be  some 
who  have  yet  to  carry  out  the 
work.  While  such  good  results 
cannot  be  expected  next  year 
from  these  late-planted  specimens, 
they  will  form  grand  fruiting 
plants  by  the  following  year  and 
give  some  fruits  next  summer. 
It  is  doubtful  whether  there  are 
any  plants  with  which  it  is  easier 
for  the  beginner  to  make  fatal 
mistakes  in  the  planting  than  the 
Strawberry.  The  preparation  of 
the  beds,  distance  apart  to  plant 
and  various  other  details  have  fre- 
quently been  given  in  The 
Garden,  so  that  it  is  not  necessary 
to  refer  to  them  here. 

Most  beginners  have  to  pur- 
chase their  first  plants,  and  as  the 
majority  cannot  aiford  those  in 
pots,  runners  rooted  in  ordinary 
soil  have  to  be  relied  upon.  For  convenience  of 
packing  and  to  prevent  them  unduly  drying,  the 
roots  and  soil  are  generally  squeezed  together,  and 
the  plant  reaches  the  buyer  with  the  roots  in  a 
similar  condition  to  that  shown  on  the  left  of 
Fig.  3.  To  plant  a  young  Strawberry  with  its 
roots  in  this  state  is  the  first  step  towards 
failure.  They  should  be  gently  eased  and  spread 
out  the  same  as  those  on  the  right  of  the  illus- 
tration, and  in  planting  use  a  trowel  and  make  a 
hole  large  enough  so  that  the  roots  will  be  in  a 
similar  position  after  planting  has  been  done. 

The  other  mistake  to  which  I  wish  to  draw 
attention  is  the  depth  to  plant.  Many  failures 
have  been  caused,  and  the  reason  never  dis- 
covered, by  too  deep  or  too  shallow  planting. 
With  many  subjects  1  inch  or  2  inches  too  deep 
or  too  shallow  does  not  matter  much  ;  but  with 
the  Strawberry  this  is  most  important.  The 
proper  depth  to  plant  is  so  that  the  junction  of 
the  leaves  and  the  mass  of  roots  is  just  level 
with  the  surface,  as  indicated  by  the  arrow 
on  the  right.  Attention  to  the  two  small  but 
important  details  referred  to  above  will  make  all 
the  difference  in  the  crop  during  next  and 
subsequent  summers.  H. 


. — STRAWBERRY  PLANT  ON  THE  LEFT  AS  UNI'ACKED.  ON  THE  RIGHT  A 
PLANT  IS  SHOWN  WITH  ITS  ROOTS  SPREAD  OUT  READY  FOR  PLANTING, 
AND   THE   ARROW   INDICATES  THE   DEPTH   TO   PLANT. 


them  in  single  layers  in  light  rooms,  where  they 
slowly  produced  one  or  two  strong  green  and 
purple  sprouts,  which  eventually  grew  into  fine 
haulm  the  following  year.  B. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Early  Bulbs.  —  For  a  few  days  the  town 
gardener  may  leave  ofi^  working  in  the  flower 
garden  and  devote  the  time  to  the  potting  of 
early  flowering  bulbs.  In  a  similar  way,  the 
person  who  does  not  possess  a  large  flower  garden 
may  engage  in  preparing  receptacles  in  which 
various  kinds  of  bulbs  may  be  planted.  There 
is  absolutely  no  doubt  about  such  an  occupation 
proving  satisfactory  in  every  way — of  benefit  to 
the  general  health  of  the  worker  and  in  the 
great  amount  of  pleasure  derived  in  due  course 
from  the  fine  display  of  blossom  which  results, 
and  that  at  a  time  when  flowers  are  scarce.  A 
number  of  pots,  boxes  and  shallow  tubs  should 
be  procured  and  made  quite  clean  inside. 
If  there  are  no  holes  in  the  bottom  of  the 
boxes  and  tubs,  some  must  be  made.     A   box 


1  foot  long  and  S  inches  wide  must  have  at  least 
five  holes,  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  made  in  it 
for  drainage  purposes.  In  addition  to  the  holes, 
some  broken  crocks  or  cinders  should  be  put  in 
to  a  depth  ot  2  inches.  On  the  crocks  place  a 
thin  layer  of  freshly  fallen  but  faded  tree  leaves. 
The  Compost. — Bulbs  may  be  grown  in  almost 
pure  leaf-soil  with  a  considerable  amount  of 
success.  I  do  not  recommend  the  amateur  to 
rely  upon  leaf-soil  solely,  but  I  do  advise  its  use 
largely  with  good  loam  and  coarse  sand.  The 
loam  and  leaf-soil  should  be  used  in  equal  pro- 
portions and  a  peck  of  sand  to  three  of  the 
compost.  Use  well-rotted  manure,  if  it  is  avail- 
able, in  the  bottom  part  of  the  boxes  or  pots, 
but  it  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  put  manure 
in  the  compost. 

The  Bulbs.— Of  course,  all  kinds  of  bulbs 
generally  grown  for  spring  flowering  may  be 
planted  in  pots  ;  but  such  kinds  as  Narcissi, 
Jonquils,  Snowdrops,  Soilla  sibirica  and  Cro- 
cuses should  be  planted  in  the  boxes  and  shallow 
tubs,  reserving  the  pots  for  the  Roman  Hyacinths 
and  Tulips.  Three  bulbs  of  Roman  Hyacinths 
are  suiBeient  for  planting  in  a  (i-inch  flower-pot, 
and  five  Tulip  bulbs  may  be  put  in  a  similar  sized 
pot.  Twelve  bulbs  of  Crocuses  or  Scillas  would 
not  be  too  many.  In  the  boxes  the 
Narcissi  bulbs  should  be  placed 
2  inches  apart,  Tulips  IJ  inches. 
Snowdrops  and  Scillas 'l  inch, 
Jonquils  the  same  distance  as 
the  Tulips.  To  make  sure  of 
saving  the  bulbs  from  decay,  put 
a  small  quantity  of  coarse  sand 
around  both  the  base  and  top  of 
each.  Empty  inverted  flower -pots 
must  be  fixed  over  the  pots  of 
bulbs  and  empty  hexes  over 
those  containing  bulbs.  All  must 
be  buried  under  ashes,  sand,  or 
ordinary  soil  until  the  new 
growths  are  nearly  2  inches  long. 
The  inverted  pots  and  boxes  will 
prevent  any  damage  being  done 
to  the  tender  growths  by  pressure 
of  covering  material.  The  culti- 
vator must  gradually  expose  (he 
growing  bulbs  to  the  full  light, 
and  this  is  best  done  by  first 
removing  the  covering  soil  or 
ashes  and  then  the  pots  and 
boxes.  Cool  frames  may  be  used 
where  they  are  available,  but 
glass  porches,  windows,  and  tables 
near  windows  will  answer  the 
purpose  for  the  growing  on  of 
the  bulbs  afterwards.  Of  course, 
where  there  are  greenhouses  or 
a  conservatory,  the  stages  and 
shelves  in  these  structures  are 
ideal  positions  for  the  plants.  Very  careful 
watering  will  be  necessary,  and  no  feeding 
until  the  roots  are  very  plentiful  in  the  pots. 
Named  bedding  Hyacinths  are  best  grown  singly 
in  5-inoh  pots ;  then  the  very  best  can  be 
obtained  from  each  bulb. 

Roses  in  Pots. — A  few  Roses  in  pots  are 
delightful  in  springtime  when  they  can  be  grown 
under  glass.  Rose  plants  do  not  require  a 
high  temperature  nor  a  close  atmosphere  to  grow 
in  ;  in  fact,  such  conditions  would  be  prejudicial 
to  the  welfare  of  the  plants— they  like  a  cooler 
temperature  and  a  buoyant  atmosphere.  Plants 
now  growing  in  pots  should  be  carefully 
examined,  and  if  repotting  or  top-dressing  be 
necessary  lose  no  time  in  getting  the  work  done, 
using  good  loam  and  some  well-rotted  cow- 
manure  for  the  purpose.  Even  those  plants  that 
do  not  need  repotting  must  be  examined  and  the 
drainage  put  right.  Pot  firmly.  Afterwards  place 
the  plants  on  boards  in  an  open  position  and 
only  protect  the  pots  and  the  soil  with  leaves, 
litter  or  ashes  when  frosts  come.  It  will  be 
quite  time  enough  to  put  the  plants  in  the  green- 
house in  January,  when  the  necessary  pruning 
may  also  be  done.  Avon. 


462 


THE     GARDEN. 


[September  18,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR   THE   SOUTH    AND  SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower   Garden. 

PROPAGATING.— If  moro  pUnts  are  to 
be  propagated  to  make  up  deficiencies 
which  may  have  occurred,  lose  no  time 
in  inserting  the  cuttings,  which  after 
this  date  should  be  rooted  under 
glass.  To  be  on  the  «afe  side  put  in 
a  few  hundreds  more  than  are  likely  to  be 
required,  and  take  care  of  a  number  of  the  old 
plants,  potting  them  up  before  they  are  killed  by 
frost.  These  old  plants,  if  placed  in  boxes  or 
pots  rather  thickly  (first  removing  the  old  leaves 
and  shortening  the  roots)  and  then  stood  in  pits 
and  cool  vineries,  will  be  very  useful  to  propagate 
from  in  the  spring.  When  boxing  the  plants 
leave  the  young  growths  their  full  length. 
Cuttings  of  Lobelias,  Iresines,  Ageratums, 
Verbenas  and  similar  plants  will  root  best  in  a 
close,  warm  temperature,  taking  care  not  to  over- 
supply  them  with  moisturo. 

Herbaceous  Borders.  —  Keep  these  clear  of 
weeds  and  remove  old  flowering  stems  of  any 
plants  which  may  be  of  no  further  use.  Clean 
all  the  autumn-flowering  plants,  and  should  the 
weather  prove  dry  give  water  to  any  that  may 
require  it.  Pink  pipings,  if  well  rooted,  may  be 
planted  out  in  the  more  favourable  parts,  and 
large  clumps  divided  and  replanted. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Pears. — Many  of  these  will  be  fast  approaching 
ripeness,  and  to  prolong  their  season  a  few  of  the 
most  forward  fruits  should  be  gathered  at  inter- 
vals when  dry  atd  taken  to  the  fruit-room  to 
finish.  Williams'  Bon  Chretien  is,  when 
gathered  at  the  right  time,  one  of  our  best ;  but 
the  fruits,  when  ripe,  do  not  remain  in  good  con- 
dition for  long.  Marguerite  Marillat,  Beurrt 
d'Amanlis  and  Mme.  Treyve  are  all  useful  early 
Pears,  and  to  follow  these  Louise  Bonne  of 
.Tersey,  Pitmaston  Duchess,  Doyenn^  du  Comice, 
Darondeau,  Beurr6  Superfin,  Conference,  Winter 
Nelis,  Beurre  Fouqueray,  Josephine  de  Malines, 
and  Nouvelle  Fulvie  are  all  good. 

Plums. — These  are  bearing  heavy  crops  with 
us  :  Washington,  Victoria,  Coe's  Golden  Drop, 
Monarch,  Rivers'  Early  Prolific  and  Gisborne. 
The  latter  as  a  standard  in  most  seasons  crops 
heavily.  Nets  must  in  many  gardens  be  used  to 
protect  the  fruit  from  birds,  and  mice  must  be 
trapped  where  troublesome,  the  latter  doing 
much  harm  in  some  gardens.  Mark  useless  trees 
and  replace  them  at  the  proper  time  with  good 
varieties,  remembering  that  it  takes  the  same 
amount  of  time,  trouble  and  room  to  grow  a 
worthless  variety  as  it  does  an  excellent  sort.  If 
not  already  done,  prick  up  the  surface  between 
the  rows  of  Strawberry  plants,  and  on  light 
land  mulch  well  with  good  farmyard  manure. 

Vegetable  Garden. 

Tomatoes. — Those  growing  by  the  side  of 
fences  or  walls  will  need  all  fresh  side  growths 
removed,  the  points  of  the  leaders  stopped,  if  not 
already  done,  and  many  of  the  leaves  shortened, 
so  as  to  give  the  fruits  a  chance  to  ripen.  Any 
fruits  which  are  showing  scarlet  colour  should  be 
removed  and  taken  into  the  vineries  to  ripen. 

Beetroots  which  are  likely  to  grow  too  large  and 
coarse  may  be  taken  up  and  laid  in  trenches  ;  this 
will  check  any  further  growth,  and  in  this  way 
the  roots  will  keep  fresh  and  crisp  till  very  late 
in  spring.  Dig  out  the  trench  deep  enough  to 
bury  the  roots  and  about  2  inches  of  the  bases  of 
the  leaves  beneath  the  soil.  Do  not  remove  any 
of  the  leaves  and  in  severe  weather  scatter  a 
little  long  litter  over  them. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrothwm  Park  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 

MIDLANDS. 

Winter  Flowering  Plants. 

Cinerarias  in  small  pots  should  be  repotted 
into  larger  sizes  before  they  become  at  all  root- 
bound,  or  stunted  foliage  and  premature  flower- 
stalks  are  bound  to  follow.  If  in  cold  frames, 
and  one  of  the  numerous  preparations  for  pro- 
ducing shade  has  been  used,  this  may  now  be 
washed  off  the  glass,  that  the  plants  may  get  full 
benefit  of  sunlight.  In  calm,  settled  weather  the 
lights  may  be  entirely  withdrawn,  especially  at 
night,  when  the  dews  will  prove  refreshing. 

Primulas  of  the  Chinese  and  the  stellata  types 
may  be  treated  similarly  to  the  foregoing  ;  but  as 
the  nights  get  longer  and  cooler  excess  of 
moisture  must  be  guarded  against. 

Cyclamen  intended  for  flowering  during  winter 
should  be  encouraged  to  grow  freely,  and 
although  plants  more  than  a  year  old  may  do  well 
enough  under  cold  frame  treatment  for  some  time 
yet,  any  raised  from  seed  last  autumn  and  from 
which  large  blooms  are  looked  for  would  be  bene- 
fited by  more  generous  treatment,  by  being  placed 
near  the  glass  in  a  house  or  pit  where  slight 
warmth  and  moisture  prevail. 

Chrysanthemums. 

Larpe- flowering  Varieties. — Secure  the  buds  of 
Japanese  sorts  as  fast  as  they  appear,  and  keep 
the  shoots  securely  tied  to  the  supports.  The 
incurved  section  is  later  in  bud-production,  the 
middle  of  September  being  quite  early  enough  to 
secure  these,  i  e. ,  to  break  off  the  shoots  that 
surround  the  buds,  as  more  refined  flowers  are 
thus  obtained  than  from  earlier  buds.  Mildew 
and  rust  may  be  kept  in  check  by  spraying  the 
foliage  with  sulphide  of  potassium,  loz.  to  two 
gallons  of  water  being  a  safe  mixture.  Aphides 
often  congregate  in  the  points  of  the  shoots  and 
may  be  destroyed  by  dusting  tobacco  powder 
freely  about  them,  preferably  when  the  plants 
are  moist  with  dew.  Slight  stimulants  will  now 
be  beneficial  to  any  plants  not  recently  surface- 
dressed,  a  bag  of  soot  or  sheep-manure  immersed 
in  the  tank  whence  the  water  supply  is 
obtained  being  efficient  and  safe. 

Specimen  Plants  and  others  for  supplying 
decorative  flowers  repay  liberal  culture,  and  it 
should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  greater  amount 
of  foliage  upon  these  renders  nutriment  more 
necessary  to  support  this  and  to  avoid  the 
unpleasant  spectacle  of  bare  stems. 

Early  Flowering  Sorts  in  pots  intended  for 
conservatory  decoration  should,  during  incle- 
ment weather  at  least,  be  placed  under  cover  as 
the  flowers  commence  to  open,  or  damaged  petals 
are  sure  to  manifest  themselves  later  on.  This 
also  applies  to  large  blooms,  though  the  mischief 
caused  thereby  is  not  apparent  at  the  time. 

Violets. 

Runners  and  weakly  growths  having  been 
regularly  picked  from  the  plants  in  the  past, 
health,  vigour  and  rapid  extension  of  the  foliage 
will  now  be  evident.  To  encourage  this,  keep 
down  weeds  and  stir  the  surface  soil  frequently. 
A  dressing  of  soot  about  the  plants  is  helpful,  as 
it  acts  as  a  stimulant  and  tends  to  destroy  ?lugs 
which  otherwise  might  get  carried  to  the  frames 
with  the  plants  in  due  course.  Advantage  should 
be  taken  of  a  fitting  opportunity  to  get  together 
a  heap,  according  to  the  numbers  of  plants  grown, 
of  soil  for  using  about  the  plants  when  trans- 
ferred to  frames,  while  the  various  components 
of  this  are  in  good  working  order.  Loam  and 
leaf-mould  should  form  the  staple  of  this  ;  but  as 
the  former  may  not  be  readily  obtainable  in 
sufficient  quantity,  common  garden  soil,  passed 
through  a  riddle  to  remove  the  larger  stones, 
makes  a  good  substitute.  Nothing  is  gained  by 
lifting  and  transferring  the  plants  too  soon,  the 
end  of  this  month  being  early  enough. 
Jambs  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacharn. ) 

Galloway  House,  Oarliatan,  Wigtovmthire. 


BOOKS. 

Bulletin  de  la  Societe  fpanoalse 
d'hopticulture    de    Londpes.*  —  This 

annual  publication  containing  the  record  of  the 
past  year's  work  accomplished  by  the  society 
has  juat  reached  us.  We  notice  that  the  con- 
tinued prosperity  of  the  society  shows  no  sign  of 
slackening,  for  the  list  of  membership  and  the 
financial  statement  are  still  on  the  increase.  The 
usual  literary  and  official  matter,  such  as  rules, 
list  of  members  and  reports  of  monthly  meetings 
form  the  preliminary  part  of  the  volume.  Then 
follows  an  interesting  account  of  the  annual 
dinner,  presided  over  by  Sir  Albert  RoUit,  in 
January  last.  The  best  of  the  papers  read  at  the 
monthly  meetings  is  given  and  embraces  a 
number  of  interesting  subjects  more  or  less 
closely  identified  with  horticulture.  There  are 
fewer  illustrations  than  usual,  but  the  frontis- 
piece is  an  excellent  portrait  of  Mr.  Harry  J. 
Veitch,  to  which  is  appended  a  biographical 
notice  from  the  pen  of  the  society's  president, 
Mr.  George  Schneider. 

The  Flora  of  Copnwall.t— This  is  a 
very  comprehensive  work  on  the  flora  of  Cornwall 
and  should  prove  a  valuable  vade  mecum  to  the 
student  of  British  plants.  It  is  impossible  and 
unnecessary  for  us  to  go  into  the  details  of  this 
book  here,  as  it  is,  after  all,  a  text  book  pure  and 
simple,  but  at  the  same  time  an  excellent  and 
useful  one.  A  splendid  map,  in  which  the  county 
is  divided  up  into  botanical  divisions,  is  included, 
and  this  should  prove  of  considerable  value  to 
the  would-be  student.  The  flora  of  Cornwall 
is  an  exceedingly  rich  and  interesting  one,  and 
anyone  requiring  a  reliable  key  to  this  natural 
storehouse  cannot  do  better  than  invest  in  a  copy 
of  this  book. 

Fpench  Gardenlngr.t— The  author  is 
manager  of  the  Mayland  Farm  in  Essex,  the 
property  of  Mr.  Joseph  Fels,  an  American 
gentleman  who,  for  the  past  seven  years,  has 
been  unstinting  in  his  labours  and  with  his  money 
in  endeavouring  to  show  in  a  practical  way,  by 
engaging  in  the  work  himself  on  commercial 
lines,  the  immense  possibilities  for  good  which 
lie  dormant  in  much  of  the  fertile  land  of 
England,  only  waiting  for  enterprise,  capital  and 
trained  labour  for  its  extraction  and  conversion 
into  food  for  the  people.  We  are  told  that 
when  this  farm  of  600  acres  was  bought, 
the  only  persons  employed  continuously  were 
three  men  and  two  boys.  Now  the  wages  bill 
stands  at  upwards  of  £3,000  per  year  and  the 
land  supports  400  persons,  including  men, 
women  and  children.  One  of  the  methods  of 
intensive  culture  which  has  helped  to  bring 
about  this  change  during  the  last  two  years  is 
French  gardening.  The  interest  in  this  form  of 
culture  has  been  so  great  of  late  that  Mr.  Smith 
was  inundated  with  enquiries  on  the  subject,  and 
it  was  this,  he  tells  us,  which  impelled  him  to 
write  this  book,  and  very  well  he  has  written 
it.  There  has  been  so  much  fanciful  and 
irresponsible  matter  written  in  the  Press  on  this 
subject  of  late  that  it  is  a  pleasure  to  see  it 
treated  in  a  matter-of-fact,  practical  way  by  a 
practical  man,  as  it  is  treated  here,  and  would-be 
beginners  starting  in  this  business  without 
practical  knowledge  of  the  work  would  be  well 
advised  in  perusing  and  studying  every  line  of 
this  little  book  carefully  before  embarking  on 
what  is  at  least  a  costly  and  a  hazardous 
business.  The  book  is  well  illustrated,  well 
printed,  and  written  in  simple  and  plain 
language.  It  includes  a  model  plan  of  a  French 
garden,  and  chapters  on  the  following  among 
many  others  :  The  site,  water,  manure,  frames, 
lights  and  cloches,  starting  the  garden,  raising 


*  "  Bulletin  de  la  SociiSte  franc,alse  d'horticulture  de 
Londres."    66,  Long  Acre,  London,  W.C. 

t "  The  Flora  of  Cornwall "  (Including  the  Scilly 
Isles).  By  F.  Hamilton  Davey,  F.L.S.  Price  Jls  net.  F. 
Chegwidden,  Lower  Market  Street,  Penryn. 

t  "  French  Gardening."  IBy  Thomas  Smith.  Mr.  Jostph 
Fels,  39,  Wilson'Street,  London,  B.C. 


September  18,  1909.1 


THE     GARDEN. 


463 


and  planting  plants,  estimate  of  expenditure 
and  return  of  a  two-aore  garden,  estimates  on 
the  outlay  and  return  of  a  one-aore  garden,  result 
from  the  Mayland  French  garden  (first  year), 
calendar  of  reminders  of  monthly  work,  and 
French  gardening  for  allotment  garden-holders. 

Practical  School    Gardening.*— 

Such  is  the  title  of  a  somewhat  ambitious  book 
which  lies  before  ub,  and  which  has  for  its 
authors  the  secretary  of  the  Oxfordshire  Edu- 
cation Committee  and  that  body's  horticultural 
instructor.  It  is,  therefore,  obvious  that  its 
infermation,  whether  practical  or  acientifie, 
should  have  with  it  all  the  force  of  unquestioned 
knowledge.  In  terming  it  an  "  ambitious  "  book 
we  do  so  because  it  seems  to  include  so  much 
that  is  quite  outside  the  range  of  ordinary  school 
gardening  as  now  presented  in  sonnexion  with 
elementary  education.  Still,  it  is  doubtless 
excusable  such  should  be  the  case,  because,  while 
school  gardening  must  necessarily  be  yet  a 
restricted  subject,  that  of  gardening  in  general 
is  a  wide  and  a  most  attractive  one.  Hence, 
as  a  book  proceeds  its  authors  find  it  easier 
te  widen  its  sphere  than  to  limit  it.  Thus, 
in  the  preface  is  given  a  long  list  of  eminent 
scientists  or  of  persons  prominent  in  horti- 
culture, whose  help  is  acknowledged  ;  but  of  the 
whole  number  scarcely  one  poses  as  an  authority 
on  the  special  subject  of  the  book.  Had  such 
not  been  so,  possibly  a  smaller,  cheaper  and 
more  concise  manual  would  have  resulted,  and 
school  gardening  might  have  gained  rather  than 
lost  by  such  limitation.  However,  as  the  price 
of  the  book  is  now  stated  to  be  only  2a.  net,  it 
can  much  more  readily  be  purchased  by  school 
teachers,  in  whose  special  interest  it  is  compiled, 
than  was  originally  the  case.  The  text  deals  very 
fally  with  the  situation  of  the  school  garden,  a 
matter  which,  unfortunately,  has  generally  to  be 
determined  by  local  conditions ;  laying  out  the 
plot  into  numerous  small  ones  usually  oblong  in 
shape  and  varying  from  half  a  rod  to  a  full  rod 
in  area.  Plans  showing  how  this  is  done  are 
added.  Drainage,  trenching,  manuring,  making 
pjvths,  tools  and  many  other  things  are  fully 
described  and,  so  far  as  poesible,  largely  figured. 
In  one  illustration  a  boy  is  shown  digging,  yet 
has  no  trench  open  before  his  spade.  This  is 
amusing  and  shows  bad  rather  than  good  practice. 
Still,  pictures  of  the  kind  are  doubtless  arranged 
spesially  for  the  camera  rather  than  depicting 
actual  garden  operations.  Manures,  espeeially 
artificial,  are  treated  very  elaborately  and  scien- 
tifically. The  method  of  cropping  plots  is  alse 
shown  in  two  or  three  plans  ;  but  any  school 
teacher  or  school  garden  instructor  will  do  wisely 
to  act  more  on  his  own  judgment  and  local  con- 
ditions in  cropping  than  on  any  stereotpyed 
plana.  They  are  apt  both  to  become  too  wooden 
and  to  make  teachers  wooden.  When  the  methods 
of  sowing  and  planting  of  crops  are  dealt  with, 
each  kind  of  vegetable  is  described  underaaeparate 
head,  the  common  and  botanical  names  in  each 
case  being  given.  One  reads  with  astonishment 
the  statement  that  the  authors  have  found  very 
little,  if  any,  difference  in  the  total  yield  of 
Runner  Beans,  staked  and  non-staked,  from  a 
given  area.  Surely  that  is  made  in  error.  Our 
experience  is  vastly  dififerent.  Round  Peas  are 
advised  for  autumn  sowing  on  a  south  border. 
Surely  that  advice  does  not  apply  to  school  garden- 
ing. Still  further,  hardly  a  gardener  now  sows 
Peas  in  the  autumn,  and  in  the  early  spring  rarely 
other  than  wrinkled  Peas.  But  then  so  many  of 
these  descriptive  notes  on  vegetables  apply  mare 
to  gardening  generally  than  to  school  gardening. 
The  pages  devoted  to  garden  pests  are  very 
useful,  because  these  pursue  gardening  in  every 
phase,  and  teachers  may  well  instruct  their 
pupils  how  to  deal  with  such  troubles.  Fruit 
culture  is  rather  elaborately  dealt  with  ;  but  a 
picture  of  a  long  garden  wall  furnished  with 
cordon-trained  trees    hardly   applies   to  school 

♦"Practical  School  Gardening."  By  Percy  Elford, 
M.  A..,  F.C.S.,  and  Samuel  Heaton.  23.  net.  Clarendon 
Press,  Oxford. 


gardens.  The  cultural  detail  respecting  fruit 
is  excellent,  as  also  is  that  relating  to  flowers, 
although  lists  of  Carnations,  Roses,  Dahlias  and 
Sweet  Peas  seem  more  useful  to  amateur 
gardeners  than  to  elementary  schools.  A  singu- 
larly useful  list  is  given  of  British  plants,  many 
of  them  quite  beautiful,  and  which  might  be 
made  most  effective  in  inducing  children  to 
become  familiar  with  their  native  flora.  It  is 
rather  unpleasant  to  find  all  these  described  as 
"weeds."  However,  spaoe  is  limited,  and  we 
can  only  advise  all  interested  in  school,  or  even 
amateur,  gardening  to  get  a  copy  of  the  book  and 
utilise  its  information. 


ANSWERS 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS 

RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Ansv^cps. — The  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  GARDEN  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance^  no  matter  what  the  lyranch  of  gardening  may 
be,  a/nd  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  eom/muni^a- 
tions  should  be  clearly  wnd  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDrroB  of  Thb 
GARDEN,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  he  xLsed  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Yellow  flower  for  edgring  (Qmddley). 
You  cannot  have  anything  better  Chan  a  yellow 
Tufted  Pansy,  such,  for  example,  as  Royal 
Sovereign  or  Bullion,  either  of  which  quickly 
forms  a  carpet-like  tuft  of  6  inches  to  9  inches  in 
width,  and  flowers  for  a  long  time  in  profusion. 
To  get  the  earliest  flowering  the  plants  of  these 
should  be  put  out  in  their  positiona  in  October. 
The  Calceolaria  ia  best  raised  from  cuttings 
inserted  in  October  in  a  cold  frame.  From  these 
sturdy  bushes  result  that  are  fit  for  planting,  i.e., 
bedding  out,  early  in  April,  or  at  least  during 
that  month.  Seed-sowing  for  these  is  not  recom- 
mended in  your  case,  and  if  you  do  not  possess 
any  plants,  cuttings  are  purchasable  at  a  very 
cheap  rate  either  rooted  or  unrooted.  We  are 
pleased  to  know  that  you  find  The  Garden  so 
interesting. 

Napcissl    to    natupalise    (A.     H. 

Rydon). — It  depends  very  much  on  the  nature 
of  the  soil,  and  particularly  whether  it  is  cool 
and  moist,  these  being  the  ideal  conditions  for 
naturalising  quite  a  large  number.  In  dry  wood- 
land many  sorts  are  very  short-lived,  while  in 
cool,  moist  and  deep  clay  soils  they  go  on  for 
years.  Indeed,  we  know  of  an  instance  where 
the  bulbs  were  planted  nearly  twenty  years  ago 
and  have  never  failed  each  year  to  give  a  good 
account  of  themselves,  though  the  clumps  are 
now  becoming  thick  and  crowded.  In  the  con- 
ditions we  have  in  mind,  prinoeps  maximus  is 
one  of  the  best,  while  such  things  as  pallidus 
prECCOX,  Qaeen  of  Spain,  ornatus,  many  varieties 
of  the  single  incomparabilia,  also  Emperor, 
Empress  and  Sir  Watkin  do  splendidly.  The 
single  incomparabilis  varieties  are  of  great  value 
by  reason  of  their  long  stems,  and  such  as 
Cynosure,  Frank  Miles,  Stella  and  others  are 
worth  noting  among  them.  N.  Barri  oonspiouus 
is  also  good,  and  in  wet  and  quite  moist  spots 
the  double  white  Gardenia-scented  Narcissus, 
N.  Poeticua  fl.  -pi. ,  should  be  made  much  of. 

Asteps  gone  vrvons  (Stirling  Castle).  —  Tbese 
have  been  attacked  by  a  species  of  Fusarium,  which  gains 
an  entrance  into  the  plants  from  the  soil.  It  is  unwise  to 
plant  Asters  where  previously  diseased  plants  have  been 
growing.  The  dead  plants  should  be  removed  as  com- 
pletely as  possible  and  burned. 

Sw^eet  Peas  and  Roses  (R.  P.,  Winchmore  Hill). 
Roses  are  not  likely  to  be  affected  by  the  same  disease. 


Sweet  Peas  should  not  be  planted  in  the  soil  two  years 
in  succession.  Superphosphate  is  said  to  be  a  check 
against  the  growth  of  the  fungus  Thielavia  basicola, 
which  seems  to  be  so  prevalent  on  the  roots  of  Sweet 
Peas. 

Foup  hepbaceous  bOPdePS  (A  Subscriber).— 
No.  1  Bed  could  be  effectively  planted  with  Iris  germanica 
in  blue,  white,  yellow  or  bronze  shades,  or  a  succession 
might  be  obtained  by  planting  the  earliest  of  these  Irises, 
with  others  of  I.  KEempferi  to  follow  andLilium  speciosum 
cruentum  for  early  autumn.  These  are  all  of  dissimilar 
growth,  and  would  provide  flowers  in  May,  July  and  Sep- 
tember. Blue  Tufted  Pansies  or  blue  Hepaticas  would 
provide  a  good  marginal  plant  if  such  be  required.  No.  2 
Bed. — For  this  bed  such  Roses  as  Grace  Darling  or  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay  would  associate  best  with  the  Delphiniums, 
planting  for  prefsrence  those  of  sky  blue  shade  with  white 
eye.  The  plants  should  be  thinly  planted.  Ulrich  Brunner 
or  Caroline  Testout  would  also  prove  excellent,  those  first 
named  flowering  in  summer  and  autumn.  No.  3  Bed. — 
With  the  PsBOnies  plant  Narcissus  Emperor  for  spring 
effect  and  scarlet  and  white  Phloxes  for  autumn.  For  the 
outer  rows  Iris  pallida  might  alternate  with  Aster 
Amellus,  or  the  former  might  give  place  to  single  pink 
Pyrethrums  and  Anemone  sylvestris,  arranging  a  margin 
of  Megasea  cordifolia  purpurea  to  the  whole  bed.  If  you 
decide  to  plant  Iris  hispanica  in  this  bed,  you  should 
plant  as  though  carpeting  the  surface,  and  not  in  formal 
clumps.  Bed  No.  4  might  well  be  planted  with  Del- 
phinium Belladonna,  single  Pyrethrums  or  Columbines 
(Aquilegias),  Lychnis  chalcedonica  and  white  Campanula 
Moerheimi.  The  scarlet  Lychnis  would  make  a  good 
centre  associated  with  the  pure  white  Madonna  Lily, 
arranging  the  single  pink  Pyrethrums,  Aquilegias  or 
possibly  Anemone  sylvestris  or  Campanula  Moerheimi 
around.  A  bed  of  Azalea  mollis  in  shades  of  orange  and 
rose,  with  Lilinm  speciosum  rubrum  for  autumn  and 
Anemone  fulgens  or  A,  robinsoniana  or  A.  blanda  for 
early  spring,  would  be  very  beautiful. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Climbeps    to    so  with    Roses 

{Brita7iHia).  —  You  will  find  the  following 
climbers  suitable  to  mix  with  the  Roses  on 
your  columns  and  to  cover  the  brickwork  above  : 
Clematis  montana,  C.  montana  rubena,  C.  lanugi- 
nosa, C.  Anderson  Henryii,  C.  Fairy  Queen, 
C.  Jackmanii  superba,  C.  Jackmanii  alba,  C.  Mme. 
Edouard  Andre,  C.  Viticella,  Hydrangea  altia- 
aima,  Wiataria  ainenaia,  W.  multijuga,  W.  mul- 
tijuga  alba,  Actinidia  chinensis,  Celaatrus 
articulatus,  Vitis  Coignetiae,  V.  armata,  V. 
Thunbergii  and  Ceanothus  veitchianua.  The 
latter  plant  is  not  a  climber,  but  will  do  very 
well  in  the  position  named.  If  you  wiah  for 
more  material,  the  various  climbing  Honeysuckles 
such  as  Lonicera  japonioa  halleana,  L.  Heckrotti, 
L.  Periclymenum  and  L.  sempervirena  may  be 
tried. 

Plants  fOP  hedgres  {Frederick  Woolcey). 
If  you  do  not  mind  your  hedges  growing  fairly 
wide  you  cannot  do  better  than  plant  Berberis 
atenophylla.  Thia  ia  a  good  evergreen  and 
flowers  well  in  May.  To  be  seen  at  its  best, 
however,  it  ought  to  be  allowed  to  grow  fairly 
free.  You  can  by  clipping,  however,  keep  it 
to  almost  any  width  and  any  height  up  to  8  feet. 
The  correct  time  to  clip  it  is  as  soon  as  the 
flowers  have  fallen.  Penzance  Briars  make  a 
good  hedge,  but  not  so  dense  as  the  Berberia,  and 
they  are  not,  of  course,  evergreen.  If  Esoallonia 
maorantha  thrives  in  you  neighbourhood,  you 
will  find  it  an  excellent  subject  for  a  hedge,  as 
it  is  evergreen,  bears  red  flowers  freely,  and  may 
be  kept  nice  and  neat  by  clipping.  It  is,  in  fact, 
better  than  the  Berberis  for  places  where  it  will 
thrive,  but  will  not  succeed  in  very  cold  districta. 
Another  good  Rose  for  a  hedge  is  Rosa  rugosa, 
or,  better  still,  the  hybrid  rugosa  Blanc  Double  de 
Coubert,  which  has  large,  double  white  flowers. 
Like  the  other  Rose,  however,  it  is  not  ever- 
green. If  the  Escallonia  grows  well  in  your 
vicinity,  we  advise  that  ;  but  either  of  the 
four  subjects  will  be  found  satisfactory.  Nursery- 
men such  as  Mr.  Smith  of  Newry  or  Messrs. 
Dickson  of  Newtownards  would  be  able  to 
supply  the  plants. 

Beech  disease  (.Miss  M.  Carta  Sturge).—'We  have 
carefully  examined  the  Beech  bark  sent  for  examination 
and  flnd  two  or  three  very  small  patches  of  the  Beech 
disease  (Cryptococcus  fagi).  A  great  deal  of  the  green 
growth  on  the  bark  you  send  is  due  to  moisture  and  is  not 
harmful  to  any  serious  extent.  The  Beech  disease  tlrst 
appears  in  cracks  and  crevices,  usually  on  the  sheltered 
side  of  the  tree,  and  may  be  recognised  by  means  of  the 


464 


THE    GARDEN. 


[September  18,  1909. 


white,  waxy  covering  which  looks  like  small  patches  of 
wool.  There  can  be  noharm  in  examining  the  badly  diseased 
tree  you  speak  about.  If  this  is  attacked  by  the  Beech 
disease  the  trunk  and  branches  will  probably  be  white 
almost  all  over.  As  a  preventive  against  your  trees 
becoming  worse,  we  advise  you  to  spray  them  in 
autumn,  as  the  leaves  are  falling,  with  the  caustic  wash 
recommended  in  a  previous  article  in  The  Garden.  This 
wash  will  remove  some  of  the  green  from  the  trunk  likewise. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Peppetual-floweringr    Roses    for 

vePandah  {Eaetwick).  —  We  prefer  Lawn 
Sand  for  destroying  Daisies,  &o.,  on  lawns.  For 
the  verandah  we  advise  you  to  plant  two  Roses 
against  each  pillar,  one  a  summer  bloomer  and 
one  a  perpetual-flowering  variety.  You  could 
always  restrict  by  pruning  the  growths  so  that 
one  did  not  smother  the  other.  To  plant  with 
the  Carmine  Pillar  which  you  possess  we  suggest 
Alister  Stella  Gray.  Three  other  pairs  would  be 
Mme.  Alfred  Carri^re  and  Ruby  Queen,  Grtiss 
an  Teplitz  and  Rene  Andre,  Zepherin  Drouhin 
and  Griiss  an  Zabern.  Wakeley's  Hop  Manure  is 
excellent  for  Roses,  and  we  have  never  known 
it  to  affect  the  colours  ;  in  fact,  if  anything,  it 
intensifies  them. 

Rose  plants  diseased  {H.  h.  Norris\~\om 
gardener  may  be  right  in  assuming  that  the  trouble  is 
due  to  the  weather,  but  we  have  had  some  very  bad 
seasons  during  the  last  eight  years,  so  that  if  it  were 
weather  and  the  cold  position  the  Roses  would  have 
shown  some  ill-effect  before  this,  and  yet  you  say  until  this 
year  the  bed  had  been  really  good.  It  seems  to  us  there 
is  some  trouble  at  the  roots.  Why  not  send  a  plant  to  the 
scientific  committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  ? 

Rose  foliage  blifrhted  (P.  5.).— The  cause  of  the 
curled  foliage  does  not  lie  in  the  position  of  the  buds  or 
the  soil,  but  arises  from  the  puncture  of  the  larvse  of  a 
saw-fly,  known  as  the  leaf-rolling  saw-fly.  Some  authorities 
believe  the  mischief  is  also  caused  by  the  female  fly  wnen 
it  deposits  its  eggs.  The  saw-fly  appears  in  May  and  June, 
which  will  account  for  the  exemption  after  the  first 
flowering.  Spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  is  recommended 
as  a  remedy,  but  this  should  be  applied  at  intervals 
following  the  pruning.  The  best  plan  is  to  hand-pick  the 
leaves  immediately  the  peats  are  seen.  It  is  supposed  the 
fly  in  the  cocoon  form  is  flrst  introduced  to  the  beds  on  the 
roots  of  Briars,  and  probably  it  is  brought  upon  plants 
from  an  infected  district,  although  the  wild  Roses  in  the 
hedges  are  often  attacked.  It  might  be  a  good  plan  to 
renew  the  soil  in  October,  and  at  the  same  time  wash  the 
roots  of  alt  plants  before  replanting. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 
To     produce     blue     flowers     of 

Hydrangreas  {Bydrangexz). — The  question 
of  Hydrangeas  producing  blue  flowers  has  been 
before  now  freely  discussed  in  The  Garden  as 
well  as  in  other  horticultural  journals.  Some 
soils  will  quickly  cause  the  flowers  to  turn  blue, 
and  this  is  generally  put  down  to  the  presence 
of  iron  in  the  soil,  but  at  the  same  time  the 
whole  matter  is  still  a  subject  for  conjecture. 
When  grown  in  pots,  one  of  the  most  successful 
methods  of  treatment  is  to  thoroughly  mix  about 
a  tablespoonful  of  sulphate  of  iron  with  each 
peck  of  soil.  Then,  in  addition,  as  the  pots  get 
furnished  with  roots  put  a  pinch  in  the  water 
about  twice  a  week.  Another  way  is  to  mix 
iron  refuse  from  the  blacksmith's  shop  with  the 
potting  soil,  but  this  does  not  always  lead  to  the 
desired  change  of  colour.  Alum  water  is  highly 
recommended  by  some  in  order  to  turn  the 
flowers  blue.  The  alum  should  be  given  at  a 
strength  of  loz.  to  each  gallon  of  water.  To 
prepare  the  alum  it  should  be  crushed  and  dis- 
solved in  a  little  hot  water.  This  mixture  must 
be  given  just  as  the  flower-trusses  show,  water- 
ing the  plants  with  it  at  intervals  of  eight  to  ten 
days,  and  discontinuing  it  when  the  flowers 
begin  to  open.  If  the  roots  are  very  dry  the 
plants  must  be  at  first  watered  with  clear  water, 
as  the  alum  would  at  that  time  prove  injurious. 

Fopcing  Anemones  and  Lilies  of  the 
Valley  \.J.  P.  Higham).—Qoo6  well-ripened  roots  of 
Ant-mone  fulgens  can  be  obtained  in  September,  and  for 
flowering  early  they  should  be  at  once  potted  in  a  mixture 
of  two  parts  loam  to  one  part  leaf-mould  and  ahout  half 
a  part  of  sand.  The  size  of  the  pots  will  depend  upon 
individual  fancy,  but  effective  specimens  may  be  made  if 
three  or  four  roots  (according  to  their  size)  are  put  in  a 
pot  5  inches  in  diameter.  After  potting  they  may  be  stood 
out  of  doors,  keeping  them  watered.  Then  as  the  nights 
get  frosty  they  should  be  removed  to  a  frame,  taking  them 


therefrom  into  the  greenhouse  about  Christmas.  A  good 
light  position  in  the  greenhouse  must  be  assigned  them. 
The  best  time  to  lift  the  Lily  of  the  Valley  la  as  soon  as 
the  leaves  have  died  down. 

Aspidistpa  leaves  spotted  (Anxious  One).— It 
is  difficult  to  assign  any  cause  for  the  injury  to  the 
enclosed  leaf  of  Aspidistra,  as,  except  the  dead  patches, 
the  plant  appears  to  be  in  good  health.  The  appearance 
of  these  patches  is  very  like  that  caused  by  the  sun 
shining  directly  on  a  leaf  while  it  is  wet.  Whatever  the 
cause,  it  is  certainly  a  local  one.  We  would  like  to  ask 
whether  a  lighted  candle  or  lamp  is  ever  brought  in  close 
proximity  to  the  plant,  as  a  very  puzzling  case  which  we 
once  investigated  ultimately  proved  to  be  caused  by  a 
candle  stood  underneath  the  leaves  of  the  Aspidistra, 
which  was  so  far  elevated  above  the  table  on  which  the 
candle  was  used  that  the  chance  of  injury  was  at  flrst  not 
thought  of.  Aspidistras  should  never  be  exposed  to  direct 
sunshine. 

Treatment  of  Camellias  (B.  £.)— Camellias 
being  almost  hardy  would  succeed  in  an  unhealed  structure, 
and  other  plants  of  a  light  and  attractive  character  likely 
to  give  you  satisfaction  are  a  selection  of  the  hardy 
Bamboos  ;  Cordyline  australis,  known  often  but  errone- 
ously as  Draciena  indivisa ;  Phormium  tenax  (NewZaaland 
Flax)  and  its  variegated  variety ;  Eulalia  japonica 
variegata,  a  very  handsome  variegated  Grass  that  will 
reach  a  height  of  4  feet  to  5  feet ;  Eurya  latifolia  variegata, 
a  Camellia-like  shrub  with  beautifully  variegated  foliage; 
and  the  best  variegated  forms  of  Euonymus  japonicus. 
The  Myrtle,  too,  should  succeed  under  such  conditions, 
and  the  Laurustinus  will  flower  well  with  the  protection 
of  a  glass  structure.  Yucca  recurvifolia,  too,  forms  a  very 
handsome  plant  when  grown  in  large  pots  or  tubs. 

Ppopag'atlngr  the  Lemon-scented  Vep- 
bena  (D.  R.  Ciiddington).—£he  Lemon-scented  Verbena 
can  be  readily  struck  from  cuttings  if  they  are  taken  at 
the  proper  time,  but,  failing  this,  they  strike  only  with 
difficulty.  The  way  to  proceed  is  about  the  end  of 
February  or  early  in  March  to  take  a  plant  that  has  been 
wintered  in  a  greenhouse  (and  is  then  most  probably  still 
in  a  dormant  state)  into  a  somewhat  warmer  structure, 
giving  it  water  at  the  roots  and  an  occasional  syringing 
on  bright  days.  The  result  will  be  a  crop  of  young,  soft 
shoots,  and  when  these  are  from  2  inches  to  2^  inches  in 
length  they  make  the  best  of  cuttings  These  shoots  flag 
so  quickly  that  the  pots  for  their  reception  should  be  pre- 
pared beforehand.  Pots  4  inches  in  diameter  are  a  very 
suitable  size,  and  they  must  be  clean  and  drained  with  a 
few  broken  crocks  in  the  bottom.  Then  fill  the  pots  with 
rather  light  sandy  soil  passed  through  a  sieve  with  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  mesh.  The  soil  must  be  pressed  down 
moderately  firm  and  made  quite  level.  Into  this  the 
cuttings  must  be  dibbled  with  as  little  delay  as  possible, 
putting  from  five  to  seven  cuttings  in  a  4-inch  pot.  When 
finished  a  good  watering  should  be  given,  sufficient,  in 
fact,  to  settle  the  soil  in  one  level  unbroken  surface. 
Tben  place  the  pots  in  a  close  propagating- case,  if  possible 
in  a  structure  rather  warmer  than  that  in  which  they 
have  grown,  but,  failing  this,  the  cuttings  may  be  put  in 
the  same  temperature.  A  close  propagating-case  is  very 
essential,  and  it  is  also  equally  important  that  the  cuttings 
are  shaded  from  the  sun,  otherwise  they  so  quickly  flag, 
and  if  this  happens  they  do  not  root  readily.  We  have 
seen  large  numbers  struck  in  this  way  with  scarcely  a 
single  failure,  but  if  the  shoots  are  allowed  to  become 
firm  and  woody  they  strike  only  with  difficulty. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Cutting:    and    drying:    Sagre    {Old 

Sjibscriber). — The  best  time  to  cut  Sage  is  while 
the  plants  are  in  flower,  just  before  the  blossoms 
commence  to  fade.  If  cut  at  that  stage  the  full 
strength  of  the  plant  is  preserved.  The  drying 
must  be  done  in  an  open  shed  or  close  to  an  open 
window  where  the  sun  will  not  shine  direetlj 
on  the  bunches.  When  thoroughly  dried,  the 
latter  must  be  suspended  from  the  roof  of  a  cool, 
dry  room,  not  in  a  dusty  place. 

When  to  plant  Rhubarb  {B.  s.  T.). 

The  best  time  to  plant  Rhubarb  is  the  first  week 
in  March.  Some  people  prefer  planting  in 
autumn,  but  should  the  winter  prove  wet  and 
cold  there  is  a  danger  of  the  crowns  rotting  in 
the  ground  before  they  have  a  chance  of  rooting 
in  the  soil.  The  ground  for  the  new  bed  should 
be  trenched  3  feet  deep  in  the  autumn,  adding 
a  liberal  supply  of  rich,  rotten  farmyard  manure 
to  the  soil  as  th*^  trenching  proceeds.  The 
distance  between  the  crowns  in  the  row  should  be 
3  feet,  and  the  distance  between  the  rows,  if 
there  are  more  than  one,  should  be  4  feet.  In  plant- 
ing, be  careful  not  to  place  the  crowns  too  deep. 
When  planted,  the  top  of  the  crown  should  be  on  a 
level  with  the  surface  of  the  surrounding  ground. 
Tread  the  soil  firmly  round  the  roots  when  plant- 
ing and  keep  the  ground  clean  from  weeds  during 
summer.  No  stems  should  be  pulled  the  first 
season,  but  the  second  season  will  give  a  good 
return.        The     best       varieties     are     Hawke's 


Champagne  (early),  Midseason  Victoria  and,  for 
exhibition,  Hobday's  Giant 

Paths  fop  kitchen  g:apden  {Antateur), 

The  most  inexpensive  paths  you  can  make  are 
those  made  of  clinkers  and  ashes.  Remove 
the  turf  and  soil  to  a  depth  of  6  inches,  which 
can  easily  be  spread  over  and  dug  into  the 
borders  ;  then  fill  up  with  lough  clinkers  and 
cinders,  retaining  an  inch  or  so  of  the  finer 
material  for  the  top.  Ram  the  clinkers  firm, 
wet  them  thoroughly  and  roll  well  with  a  heavy 
roller.  If  you  prefer  to  use  gravel  for  the  top, 
dig  the  paths  the  same  depth  and  place  in 
5  inches  of  clinkers  or  rough  material,  such  as 
coarse  gravel  or  bricks,  and  top  up  with  gravel. 
About  2  inches  of  gravel  will  be  required,  which 
will  roll  down  to  the  necessary  level.  Gravel 
is  usually  sold  by  the  cubic  yard,  so  you  can 
estimate  the  quantity  required. 

Vegretables  for  exhibition  (M.  C.).-  To  have  a 

good  representative  collection  of  vegetables  for  exhibition 
at  the  time  you  name  you  should  include  Potatoes, 
Tomatoes,  Onions,  Carrots,  Cauliflowers,  Peas,  Runner  or 
Dwarf  French  Beans,  Cucumbers,  Marrows,  Beets,  white 
Turnips  and,  if  you  have  them,  really  good  well-blanched 
Celery  or  Leeks.  Parsnips  should  come  in  only  if  hard 
pressed  to  make  up  twelve  dishes  ;  nice  small,  clean,  fresh 
Cabbages  would  be  better  than  Parsnips.  As  to  poioting, 
all  depends  on  whether  the  schedule  of  the  show  lays  down 
any  scale  of  points,  or,  if  not,  whether  the  vegetables  are 
judged  by  points.  Taking  the  kinds  at  their  level  value, 
we  should  give  to  really  good  Potatoes,  Tomatoes,  Onions, 
Carrots,  Cucumbers,  Cauliflowers,  Beans  and  Celery  or 
Leeks,  say,  six  points  each,  and  to  the  others  five  points 
each.  To  write  a  name  on  a  swelling  Melon,  scratch  it  now 
on  the  skin  with  a  large  pin  ;  but  the  practice  is  objection- 
able and  disfigures  a  fruit  rather  than  improves  it. 

Onion  mildew  (C.  B.)  —This  disease  is  of  a  fungoid 
nature,  and  is  allied  to  the  mildew  which  attacks  Peas, 
Roses,  Vines  and  various  other  plants.  It  is  in  some 
instances  a  product  of  too  much  rain  and  low  tempera- 
ture, in  others  great  heat  and  drought  seem  to  develop 
it ;  but  the  formation  of  the  foliage  of  the  Onion  plant 
renders  it  very  difficult  to  deal  with.  When  plants  having 
broad  veined  leafage  are  affected  with  mildew,  by 
spraying  them  with  a  copper  sulphate  and  lime  solution, 
or  Bordeaux  mixture,  as  it  is  also  called,  two  or  three 
times  the  mildew  is  destroyed ;  but  because  the  Ouion 
foliage  is  so  very  smooth,  erect  and  tubular,  it  is  difficult 
to  induce  the  solution  to  coat  the  plants,  as  it  so  speedily 
runs  off.  To  make  it  adhere  at  all,  a  good  proportion  of 
treacle  or  soft  soap  should  be  added  to  the  solution,  but 
nothing  can  now  be  done  to  save  your  plants.  When  ripe 
gather  up  all  decayed  stems  or  tops  and  burn  them.  Do 
not  sow  Ouion  seed  on  or  near  the  same  ground  next  spring, 
and  where  it  is  purposed  to  sow  give  the  ground  early  in 
October  a  dressing  of  half  a  bushel  of  gas-lime  per  rod. 

FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Apple  and  Cheppy  trees  attacked 

by  black  fly  {Miss  Ford).~We  have  no 
doubt  that  the  larvee  of  the  pest  had  been  lying 
dormant  for  a  long  time  waiting  for  favourable 
conditions  for  them  to  burst  forth  into  activity 
again.  Your  trees  will  no  doubt  recover  in  time 
even  from  this  bad  attack.  The  best  thing  for 
you  to  do  now  will  be  to  have  your  trees  im- 
mediately sprayed  with  the  fullowing  mixture, 
repeating  the  spraying  in  the  course  of  a  week's 
time  (a  syringe  will  do  if  you  have  not  a  sprayer). 
Boil  lOlb.  of  quassia  chips  and  71b.  of  soft  soap, 
well  mixing  the  two  together,  then  add  to  the 
mixture  eighty  gallons  of  clean  water  before 
spraying  the  trees.  If  a  less  quantity  is  required 
it  is  easy  to  reduce  the  proportions  of  both 
quassia  chips  and  the  soft  soap  and  also  the 
added  water  ;  and  you  will  find  that  the  aphis 
will  be  destroyed.  As  a  further  precaution 
against  their  appearing  again  next  year,  we 
advise  you  to  have  your  trees  sprayed  in  winter 
with  the  caustic  alkali  wash. 

The  seml-ppunlng-  op  summep  shopten- 
Ing"  of  Vine  shoots  (Enquiren  —This,  we  thiuk,  is  a 
sound  practice  to  apply  to  early  Vines  after  they  have 
comparatively  finished  their  growth  and  are  approaching 
maturity.  It  is  fair  to  assume  that  the  doing  so  at  this 
time  helps  to  plump  up  and  strengthen  the  fruit-bearing 
basal  buds,  and,  therefore,  benefits  the  crop  the  following 
season.  Ou  the  other  hand,  we  consider  it  contrary  to 
good  practice  to  cut  back  growing  Vines  in  the  same  way. 
Doing  so  would,  we  believe,  lessen  the  power  of  the  Vine 
to  swell  up  and  properly  develop  its  crop  of  fruit,  and  we 
are  sure  that  the  ultimate  coloiu-ing  of  the  Grapes  would 
be  injuriously  affected.  When  the  Vines  have  reached 
the  same  condition  of  ripeness  as  the  early  Vines,  then  we 
think  that  some  pruning  would  prove  of  advantage,  hut 
this  coutd  not  be  before  the  end  of  September  or 
beginning  of  October. 


GARDEN. 


-y^>=^ 


^^ZZIS 


No.  1975,— Vol.  LXXIII. 


Septeivibbr  25,  1909. 


CONTBNTS  . 


The  Adtumn-flowek- 
INQ  Phloxes   . .    . .    466 

Death  of  Mr.  Peter 
Barr,  V.M.H.   . .    467,  476 

HOTEB  OF  THB  WEEK 

Forthcoming  events      466 

CORKESFORDBBOB 

Mildew  on  Koses     . . 
Flowek  Qasden 
Uncommon    bulbous 
flowers  for  vases  . . 
Sweet  Pea  chat 
Coloured  Plate 

Michaelmas  Baisies 
Rose  Garden 
Notes    on     newer 

Roses. — III 

Roses    In     a    North 

London  garden  , .  469 
Rose  M.  Paul  Led6  . .  469 
Rose   Mrs.    A.    R. 

Waddell 470 

Greenhouse 
Eelworm  in  leaves  of 

greenhouse  plants     470 

How  to  force  Spirfeas    470 

Campanula  pyra- 

midalis  in  pots     . . 

Trees  and  Shrubs 

The     Willow     scale 

insect      


467 


467 


468 


469 


470 


471 


Trees  and  Shrubs 
The     American 

Mountain  Ash      . .    471 
A  rare    flowering 

shrub       471 

Clerodendron  tricho- 

tomum     471 

GARDENniO  FOR  BEOIHNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week 472 

Propagating    the 

Arbor- vitae     . .     . .    472 
Lifting     bedding-out 

Fuchsias 473 

Lifting  and   potting 
old     bedding  -  out 

plants      473 

THE  Town  Garden  ..    473 
Gardbnins  of  thb  Week 
For  the   South   and 

South  Midlands    . .    474 
For  the  North    and 
North  Midlands  ..    474 

New  plants 474 

William  Fowler  . .  . ,  475 
Answers  to  Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . .  . .  476 
Trees  and  shrubs  . .  476 
Fruit  garden  . .  . .  476 
Miscellaneous  . .     . .    476 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Feather  Hyacinths 467 

An  arch  clothed  with  Roses       46S 

A  new  Michaelmas  Daisy     Coloured  plate 

Rose  Blush  Rambler  covering  an  arch 469 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  garden  Roses 470 

Eucryphia  cordifolia      471 

Propagating  the  Arbor-vitse       472,  473 

The  late  Mr.  Peter  Barr       476 


BDITORIAL    NOTICBS. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
QAKDEN,  aTid  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relatiTig  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  CorrespoTidents"  colum/ns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
toiU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  cormnunications  rmist  he  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  Thb 
Garden,  accompanied  by  na/me  and  add/ress  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  oHicles  and  notes, 
but  he  zoiU  not  be  re^oTisible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contractions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  uTiderstood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  loill  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
a/nd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  nviist  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  TSB  GARDEN 
vriU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Qa/rden,  W.C, 


THE  AUTUMN-FLOWERING 
PHLOXES. 

A  SHOWY  border  planted  entirely  with 
Phlox  panioulata  and  its  numerous 
varieties  is  to  be  seen  at  Kew 
L  between  the  herbaceous  ground  and 
rookery.  The  border  is  not  an  ideal 
one  for  herbaceous  plants  generally,  as  it  is 
heavily  shaded,  but  it  serves  to  illustrate  the 
fact  that  positions  which  are  too  shaded  for  a 
general  collection  of  plants  may  be  turned  to 
good  account  by  using  these  Phloxes.  The 
border  in  question  is  situated  under  the 
west  side  of  a  high  wall,  while  immediately  in 
front  of  it  a  Rose  pergola  exists,  with  trees  a 
little  distance  away.  Under  ordinary  mixed 
border  culture  it  would  not  be  likely  to  prove  a 
success,  but  early  in  September  it  was  a  blaze  of 
colour. 

A  great  deal  has  been  done  of  late  years  to 
improve  the  garden  varieties  of  Phlox,  and  a 
much  wider  range  of  eolour  is  obtainable  than 
was  the  case  twenty-five  years  ago.  At  that 
period  several  sorts  existed,  mostly  reds  and 
whites.  Now  it  is  possible  to  obtain  varieties 
with  salmon,  scarlet,  rose,  pink,  lilac,  purple, 
violet  and  white  flowers,  while  the  trusses  of 
bloom  are  very  much  larger  and  the  individual 
blossoms  several  times  bigger  than  those  of  the 
old  sorts.  A  great  transformation  has  also 
taken  place  in  the  shape  of  the  flowers,  for 
while  those  of  the  typical  P.  paniculata  are 
somewhat  star-like,  with  narrow,  eurled  petals 
set  wide  apart,  those  of  the  later  varieties  are 
of  uniform  shape,  with  large,  flat  petals  which 
join  at  the  margins.  In  height  likewise  a  great 
difierence  is  neticeable,  for  while  P.  panioulata 
grows  5  feet  to  6  feet  high,  the  average  height 
has  now  been  reduced  to  between  2J  feet  and 
3  feet,  while  there  are  varieties  whieh  rarely 
exceed  IJ  feet  in  height.  It  is  a  matter  of  taste 
as  to  whether  the  taller  or  shorter  growing  sorts 
are  the  more  beautiful ;  but  personally  one  is 
inclined  to  think  that  those  of  average  height 
are  to  be  encouraged.  The  very  short  ones  look 
rather  stiflf,  while  those  above  the  average  height 
are  inclined  to  become  naked  about  the  lower 
parts  of  the  stems,  especially  in  a  dry  season, 
before  the  flowers  open.  Although  favourably 
disposed  towards  many  of  the  newer  varieties,  it 
cannot  be  denied  that  there  are  some  very  old 
varieties  of  distinct  merit,  and  it  not  infrequently 
happens  that  two  or  three  varieties  are  found  in 
cottage  gardens  whieh  have  existed  there  for  a 
great  number  of  years.  The  type  itself  is  very 
ornamental  and  is  well  worth  a  position  among 
the  up-to-date  varieties,  both  for  the  sake  of 
comparison  and  for  its  own  worth. 


Phloxes  like  a  moderately  light  but  cool  soil, 
with  plenty  of  water  during  summer,  and  they 
prefer  a  situation  shaded  from  the  hottest  mid- 
day sun.  In  very  light  ground  it  is  advisable  to 
apply  a  mulch  of  well-rotted  manure  in  May  to 
assist  in  keeping  the  ground  cool  and  moist. 
They  may  be  increased  by  means  of  cuttings  of 
the  young  shoots,  taken  oflF  as  they  appear  in 
spring  and  inserted  singly  in  2J-inch  pots,  or 
several  together  in  larger  ones  and  placed  in  a 
warm  propagating-frame.  As  soon  as  rooted 
they  must  be  hardened  off,  potted  singly  into 
3-inch  pots,  and  grown  in  a  cool,  airy  frame 
until  they  can  be  planted  in  May.  Where  a 
small  stock  only  is  required,  the  clumps  may  also, 
of  course,  be  divided  in  the  ordinary  way  during 
autumn  or  spring.  It  is  advisable  in  all  cases  to 
remove  the  flower- heads  as  soon  as  the  flowers  ■ 
are  over,  as  this  allows  of  mere  vigour  being 
thrown  into  the  production  of  good  basal  buds 
for  the  following  year. 

Except  in  the  case  of  a  few  sorts  these  Phloxes 
are  not  expensive,  and  collections  of  fifty  first- 
rate  named  sorts  are  advertised  at  prices  varying 
from  a  guinea  to  30s.,  and  different  quantities 
at  correspondingly  lower  prices,  with  half-a- 
doaen  priced  from  23.  6d.  to  63.  Appended  is  a 
list  of  really  good  varieties  with  colour  and 
approximate  height. 

White  :  Freifraulein  G.  von  Lassburg,  3  feet, 
large  heads  of  flowers  ;  Mme.  M.  Carvalho, 
3  feet;  Snow  Queen,  very  clear  and  good  truss, 
3  feet ;  Sylphide,  an  old  but  very  good  variety, 
with  large  heads  of  flowers,  a  very  free  grower  ; 
Tapis  Blanc  —  this  was  voted  an  award  of 
merit  by  the  floral  committee  of^  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  in  1906  —  grows  only 
1  foot  or  18  inches  high  and  bears  very  large 
heads  of  good-sized,  shapely  flowers  ;  and  Mrs.  E. 
H.  Jenkins,  good  branching  habit,  large  flowers, 
3i  feet  to  4  feet.  White,  with  an  eye  or  shading 
of  another  colour :  Henri  Murger,  2  feet  to 
2^  feet,  white,  with  pink  eye ;  Lady  Grisel, 
white,  tinged  lilac,  2  feet  to  2J  feet ;  and 
Nemphis,  3  feet,  white,  rose  eye. 

Scarlet  and  salmon  :  Adonis,  Ih  feet,  salmon, 
with  darker  eye ;  Coquelicot,  3  feet,  orange 
scarlet,  one  of  the  best  of  all ;  Flambeau, 
■2h  feet,  bright  orange  red  ;  Georg  A.  Strohlein, 
24  feet,  large  panicles  of  orange  scarlet  flowers  ; 
Jooelyn,  2  feet,  scarlet,  with  darker  eye ;  Moliire, 
3  feet,  salmon,  with  white  ring  round  a  darker 
eye ;  Mounet-SuUy,  3  feet,  orange  scarlet ; 
Pantheon,  3  feet  to  4  feet,  salmon,  large  branch- 
ing spikes ;  Regulus,  2  feet,  salmon ;  and 
Toreador,  li  feet,  rose  salmon. 

Pink  and  rose :  Balzac,  pink,  crimson  eye, 
3  feet ;  ChampoUion,  rose,  3  feet ;  Gomez,  2  feet, 
rosy  lilac  ;  Lady  de  Ramsey,  4  feet,  cerise  ;  Lady 


466 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[September  25,  190S. 


Molly,  '2J  feet  to  3  feet,  pink  ;  Mont  Rose,  rose, 
dark  centre,  3  feet ;  and  Pink  Perfection,  pink, 
with  crimson  eye,  2J  feet. 

Other  colours :  Aquilon,  2J  feet,  cerise  ; 
Amiral  Jaures,  silvery  lilac,  1|  feet ;  Cceur  de 
Lion,  3  feet,  mauve  ;  Coocinea,  2  feet,  crimson  ; 
Cr^pusoule,  mauve,  with  crimson  centre ; 
EugMie  Danzanvilliers,  bluish,  with  white 
centre,  1  foot ;  Fernand  Cortez,  cerise,  2i  feet ; 
Fantome,  violet,  white  centre,  2  feet ;  Lord 
Kelvin,  SJ  feet,  crimson  ;  Louis  Blanc,  3  feet, 
purple  ;  Pharaon,  rose  lilac,  2  feet ;  and  William 
Ramsey,  purple. 


THE 


LATE 
BARR, 


MR.    PETER 
V.M.H. 


A  Grbat  Horticdltcbist. 
Flowbb-lo  VBBS,  whether  amateur  or  professional, 
will  regret  to  hear  of  the  death  of  Mr.  Peter 
Barr,  in  the  eighty-fifth  year  of  his  age.  With 
his  death  passes  away  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able men  of  his  generation — a  man  of  great  gifts, 
business  acumen,  and  a  heart  that  brimmed 
over  with  sympathy  and  kindness.  Mr.  Barr 
was  a  many-sided  man,  and  worked  his  way  into 
the  affections  of  those  who  appreciated  horticul- 
ture by  the  love  of  flowers  that  permeated  his 
long  and  busy  life.  Our  late  friend  has  been 
called  the  "  Daffodil  King,"  and  no  one  has 
inspired  a  greater  enthusiasm  for  the  flower  he 
made  especially  his  own  than  Mr.  Peter  Barr ; 
but  it  is  not  of  the  Narcissi  only  that  his  name 
will  live  in  our  hearts  for  many  a  day,  but  of  his 
general  and  deep  knowledge  of  hardy  flowers  and 
of  mankind.  Wherever  Mr.  Barr  went  on  his 
long  journeys — undertaken  at  an  advanced  age — 
into  countries  beset  with  difficulties  even  to 
those  in  the  prime  of  manhood  he  was 
enthusiastically  welcomed.  One  by  one  the 
great  nurserymen  and  amateurs  of  the  last 
century  pass  away,  but  the  name  of  Mr.  Peter  Barr 
will  long  remain  a  household  word  among  horti- 
culturists. The  lovely  Daffodil  named  after  him 
— Peter  Barr — will  recall,  whenever  we  see  it,  the 
memory  of  one  who  has  brought  a  love  of  flowers 
to  many  an  English  home.  On  page  475  will  be 
found  a  more  exhaustive  account  of  a  well-spent 
life.  His  cheery  presence  was  always  welcome, 
and  it  will  be  a  shock  to  those  who  saw  him  only 
on  the  Tuesday  previous  at  the  meeting  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  to  know  that  his 
death  occurred  with  such  startling  sudden- 
ness. The  evening  before  his  death  he  was 
dining  with  his  family  in  London,  returned  home 
to  the  residence  of  his  son,  Mr.  George  Barr, 
and  passed  away  soon  afterwards. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

September  28. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  1  p.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  ;  lecture  at  three 
o'clock  on  "The  Production  of  Horticultural 
Varieties,"  by  Professor  H.  de  Vries,  the  Second 
Masters  Memorial  Lecture. 

October  6.  — National  Chrysanthemum  Society. 
A  Conference  on  Chrysanthemums,  Essex  Hall, 
Strand,  3  p.m. 

October  12. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Meeting  of  the  Committees,  12  noon. 


Royal  Hoptlcultupal   Society.— A 

show  of  home  bottled  and  preserved  fruits  and 
vegetables  (including  fruits  bottled  in  water  and 
in  syrup,  jams,  &c. )  will  be  held  on  December  1 
to  4,  1909  (Wednesday  to  Saturday).  Awards  of 
cups,  medals  and  other  prizes.  Dried  or  bottled 
fruits  and  vegetables  of  any  kind  may  be  shown, 
subject  to  the  conditions  of  (a)  there  being  no 


chemical  preservative  or  (6)  artificial  colouring 
matter  used,  and  (c)  of  their  being  tasted  by  the 
judges  ;  {d)  provided  also  they  have  been  grown 
in  the  British  Islands.  Tomatoes  are  considered 
vegetables.  Bottles  with  glass  lids  are  greatly 
to  be  preferred.  For  particulars  apply  to  the 
Secretary,  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
Vincent  Square,  S.  W.  Fellows  are  reminded 
that  there  will  be  no  show  at  Vincent  Square  on 
Tuesday,  December  21,  and  they  are  requested 
to  erase  it  at  once  from  their  Fellows'  tickets. 
The  three  committees  of  the  society  will  sit 
upstairs  on  the  21st,  and  plants,  &o. ,  for  certificate 
will  be  received,  but  nothing  else. — W.  Wilks, 
Secretary. 

Spring  bulb   show,   1910.— A 

special  exhibition  of  forced  spring  bulbs  will  be 
held  at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Hall  on  March 
8  and  9,  1910.  The  object  of  this  show  is  to 
demonstrate  the  best  varieties  suited  for  gentle 
forcing,  and  exhibits  of  small  and  large  collections 
are  invited  from  amateurs  and  the  trade.  Royal 
Horticultural  Society's  medals  will  be  awarded 
according  to  merit.  At  this  exhibition  the 
council  also  offer  (subject  te  the  general  rules  of 
the  society)  many  valuable  prizes  presented  to 
them  by  the  General  Bulb  Growers'  Society, 
Haarlem. 

United  Hopticultupal  Benefit  and 

Provident  Society. — The  monthly  meeting 
of  this  society  was  recently  held  at  the  Horti- 
cultural Hall,  Vinoettt  Square,  Westminster. 
Mr.  Charles  H.  Curtis  presided.  Six  new 
members  were  elected.  The  death  certificate  of 
the  late  Mr.  J.  H.  Wilson  was  produced,  and  the 
amount  standing  to  his  credit  in  the  society's 
books  (£65  17s.  3d. )  was  passed  for  payment  to 
his  nominee,  Mrs.  Wilson.  The  amount  paid 
for  sickness  since  the  last  meeting  was  £47  63. 
The  annual  dinner  will  be  held  at  the  Waldorf 
Hotel  in  October,  particulars  of  which  will 
shortly  be  given. 
Blalpgowpie  fpuit  hapvest.— With 

the  end  of  the  season  at  Blairgowrie,  Perthshire, 
it  is  now  possible  to  judge  properly  the  oharaoter 
of  the  season  as  regards  crop  and  prices,  and 
it  must  be  said  that  on  the  latter  the  record 
is  an  exceedingly  unsatisfactory  one.  The  market 
has  been  very  dull  and  prices  have  been  corre- 
spondingly low,  it  being  estimated  that  the 
average  price  obtained  for  Raspberries,  which 
were  a  very  large  crop,  would  not  exceed  £10 
per  ton.  For  some  time  sellers  could  not  obtain 
more  than  £6  lOs.  and  £7  per  ton,  a  price  which 
was  unremunerative  in  the  extreme.  In  no 
previous  season  were  so  many  Raspberries 
allowed  to  go  to  waste,  many  tons  being  left 
unpicked,  as  the  prices  would  not  pay  for 
the  expenses  of  picking  and  handling.  The 
quantity  of  fruit  sent  by  rail  was  considerably 
larger  than  ever,  about  2,700  tons  net  having 
been  despatched.  This  is  about  a  fourth  more 
than  last  year.  Unfortunately,  the  pecuniary 
results  are  not  commensurate,  and  unless  an 
increased  demand  is  secured  another  season  the 
area  of  fruit  is  likely  to  be  rather  lessened  than 
increased. 

New  vegetables.— The  following  vege- 
tables were  grown  for  trial  this  season  at  Wisley, 
samples  being  placed  before  the  fruit  committee 
on  the  14th  inst.,  when  each  received  three 
marks,  whieh  may  be  regarded  as  equivalent  to  an 
award  of  merit :  Potatoes  Duchess  of  York,  long, 
flat  kidney,  from  Mr.  W.  Holmes,  Tain,  N.B.  ; 
Vera  O'Brien,  flattish  oval,  from  Mr.  Atkins, 
Kildare  ;  Widecombe  Intermediate,  from  the 
Rev.  J.  Pickering,  Ashburton  ;  and  Scottish 
Chief,  a  large,  flattish  round,  from  Messrs.  Barr 
and  Sons.  A  fifth  variety  was  selected  with  the 
above  for  cooking,  but  when  presented  the 
centre  of  each  tuber  was  found  to  be  black  and 
much  diseased,  although  there  was  not  the 
least  external  evidence  of  its  presence.  A  very 
large  and  most  successful  trial  of  Cauliflowers  at 
Wisley  furnished  the  following  as  exceptionally 
good :    Early  Snowball,  the  very  earliest,   and 


King  of  the  Cauliflowers,  both  from  Messrs. 
Barr  and  Sons;  Magnum  Bonum,  very  fine  heads, 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons ;  Dwarf  Mammoth, 
Messrs.  J.  Carter  and  Co. ;  and  Conqueror, 
Messrs.  Vilmorin  and  Co.  Seldom  have  finer  or 
cleaner  heads  been  seen  than  was  found  on  all 
these  varieties.  Climbing  Beans  were  in  two 
sections.  First  were  the  ordinary  Ssarlet  Runner, 
of  which  remarkably  fine  stocks  were  seen  of 
Red  Giant,  pods  long,  narrow  and  pale  green  in 
colour,  and  Scarlet  Emperor,  pods  also  long  and 
straight,  but  of  a  deep  green  hue ;  these  came  from 
Messrs.  J.  Carter  and  Co.  Prizewinner,  long, 
straight  and  handsome,  for  which  Messrs.  Sutten 
and  Sous  received  a  first-olass  certificate  in  1892, 
and  White  Emperor,  a  splendid  stock  of  the 
White  Dutch,  pods  very  long  and  handsome  and 
a  huge  cropper,  came  from  Mr.  E.  Beckett,  Alden- 
ham  Gardens,  Elstreo.  The  other  section  comprised 
smooth-podded  Beans.  Count  Zeppelin  resemblas 
in  pod  the  old  case-knife  Bean  ;  it  is  long  and 
slightly  bent,  quite  stringless  and  of  delicious 
quality  when  cooked,  from  Messrs.  Heineman, 
Erfurt ;  Dark  Dun,  heavy  cropper,  and  Climbing 
Selected,  of  Tender  and  True  form,  Messrs.  J. 
Carter  and  Co.  ;  and  Princess  of  Wales,  a  very 
heavy  cropping,  smooth,  long-podding  and  early 
variety,  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons. 

Glasgow    and    South    W^estepn 
Railway  station  ppizes.— The  awards 

in  the  competition  for  the  best-kept  station 
gardens  on  the  system  of  the  Glasgow  and  South 
Western  Railway  have  just  been  announced, 
with  the  result  that  the  following  gardens  are 
placed  in  the  first  class,  receiving  £6  each.  The 
stations  in  this  class  have  been  much  admired 
this  season,  and  it  is  questionable  if  they  have 
been  finer  in  any  previous  year.  The  following 
are  the  names  of  the  stations  and  station-masters 
in  this  class :  Dalbeattie,  Mr.  W.  B.  Kirkpatriok ; 
Annbank,  Mr.  Andrew  Morren  ;  Ruthwell,  Mr. 
James  Barr  ;  Dalrymple,  Mr.  R.  Fisher ;  Dal- 
mellington,  Mr.  W.  Taylor  ;  and  Carronbridge, 
Mr.  W.  B.  Dunlop.  Eight  are  in  the  second, 
six  in  th«  third,  four  in  the  fourth  and  six  in 
the  fifth.  A  new  condition  has  been  introduced, 
by  which  stations  receiving  £  12  or  more  in  prizes 
in  three  consecutive  years  will  be  debarred  from 
competing  for  one  year. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(7'he  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


"The  GlamouF  of  the  Tulip."— In 

my  article  on  "The  Glamour  of  the  Tulip," 
page  457,  third  column,  line  16, 1  wrote  bases,  and 
the  printer  has  put  hazes.  Could  you  kindly 
note  this  in  your  next  issue,  please?  It  is 
nonsense  as  it  stands.  — J.  J. 

Dpesslng  Rose  blooms.— It  is  greatly 

to  be  desired  that  before  the  National  Rose  Society 
issues  another  schedule  of  show  classes  a  very 
special  and  severe  prohibition  of  flower  dressing 
will  be  inserted.  It  is  marvellous  that  rosarians 
should  so  far  attempt  to  improve  on  Nature  in 
relation  to  flower  form  as  to  deface  beautiful 
flowers  in  the  way  they  do.  Let  those  readers 
unfamiliar  with  the  praotioe,  as  seen  in  some  of 
the  flowers  at  the  recent  autumn  Rose  show, 
conceive  an  ordinary  tea-saucer,  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  a  hen's  egg,  stood  on  end,  with  a 
flattened  base,  and  they  will  thus  form  a  correct 
estimate  of  what  some  of  the  exhibitors  thought 
was  improving  their  flowers.  This  dressing  is 
done  by  pulling  the  outer  petals  back,  leaving 
the  solid  centre  a  small  cone.  What  a  relief 
it  was  to  turn  from  these  degraded  blooms  to  the 
really  superb,  natural  and  beautiful  flowers  set 
up  by  trade  growers  and  others  in  bunches. 
Such  banks  of  bloom  as  those  formed  were, 
indeed,  glorious  and  commanded  the  heartiest 
admiration.  — D. 


SEPTEMBlife    26,  1909.]5 


THE    GAEDEN. 


467 


A  grlUt  of  Plums.— The  Plum  season 
being  now  at  its  height,  so  far  as  this  locality  is 
concerned,  it  may  be  interesting  to  your  readers- 
to  know  that  in  many  gardens  record  crops  are 
reported.  Pruning  never  seems  to  have  entered 
the  minds  of  Devonshire  natives,  with  the  result 
that  fruit  and  other  trees,  in  this  part  of  the 
county  especially,  are  in  all  sorts  of  fantastic 
shapes  and  covered  to  their  very  tops  with  Ivy 
and  lichen.  My  trees  are  now  pruned  regularly, 
and  for  three  or  four  years  have  borne  excellent 
crops,  but  this  year's  produce  is  a  record  one. 
On  the  standard  trees  the  crop  is  equally  good, 
and  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  prop  up  some 
of  the  branches,  so  great  is  the  weight. — John  R. 
Jackson,  Glaremont,  Lympstone,  Devon. 

Mildew  on  Roses. — Last  year  I  related 
my  experience  in  The  Gaedbn  with  regard  to 
Mo-Eliic  and  Jeyes's  Cyllin  Soft  Soap  as  a 
thorough  check  to  a  bad  attack  of  mildew,  also 
stating  that  I  thought  by  using  it  early  in  the 
season  mildew  might  be  prevented.  Early  in 
June  I  gave  two  good  dressings  with  Mo-Effic 
solution  as  directed  and  later  in  July  a  solution 
made  from  Jeyes's  Soft  Soap,  and  repeated  these 
alternately  during  July  and  August.  At  the 
time  of  writing  (September  14)  there  is  not  the 
slightest  trace  of  mildew  among  over  400  trees, 
several  other  Rose  gardens  in  the  neighbour- 
hood being  badly  affected.  I  believe  that  the 
Cyllin  Soap  solution  only  would  keep  the 
disease  away,  but,  having  had  sueh  a  good  effect 
by  using  the  Mo-Effic  as  well,  I  shall  continue  to 
use  both.  There  is  no  need  to  apply  the  dress- 
ings later  than  the  last  week  of  August  or  the 
first  week  of  September. — E.  E.  F. 

Roses  in  the  IVIidlands.— I  am  pleased 
to  find  Mr.  Molyneux  again  giving  us  his  valu- 
able experience  on  the  newer  Roses.  I  have 
always  found  his  notes  most  useful  when  deciding 
which  of  the  new  varieties  to  grow.  I  am  glad 
to  take  this  opportunity  of  offering  him  my  best 
thanks.  I  know  I  am  expressing  the  thoughts  of 
several,  and  I  should  say  of  a  great  many,  others. 
I  wonder  if  Mr.  Molyneux  could  add  still 
another  favour,  and  when  he  uses  the  expression 
"  rather  thin "  he  would  compare  the  Rose,  in 
this  particular,  with  some  well-known  variety, 
say,  Pharisaer.  This  description  might  be  used 
of  Countess  of  Gosford.  Mr.  Molyneux  uses  it 
himself  of  Pharisaer,  yet  the  latter  is  a  good 
individual  Rose,  while  the  former  is  good  in 
colour  only.  I  find  Mrs,  W.  J.  Grant  and  its 
sport.  Lady  Faire,  grow  fairly  well,  quite  enough 
to  give  plenty  of  good  Roses.  Mme.  Constant 
Soupert  has  done  well  this,  my  first,  season  with 
it.  Mme.  Jean  Dupuy,  also  the  first  season,  has 
not  opened  well.  I  find,  as  Mr.  Molyneux  siys, 
Dean  Hole  exceedingly  good  as  a  cut-back  in 
growth,  shape,  size  and  colour.  The  Roses  I  find 
do  the  best  as  individual  specimens,  good  in 
growth,  size  and  shape,  are  Dean  Hole,  Pharisaer, 
Lady  Ashtown,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Princesse 
M.  Mertchersky,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Caroline 
Testout,  Mrs.  D.  MeKee,  Lady  Faire,  Clara 
Watson,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez,  Earl  of  Warwick, 
Mme.  Segond  Weber,  Lady  Roberts,  Countess  of 
Derby,  Hugh  Dickson,  Duke  of  Wellington,  A.  K. 
Williams,  Alfred  Colomb,  Victor  Hugo,  Frau 
LiUa  Rautenstrauoh  (drops  its  head),  Maman 
Coohet  (does  not  like  damp),  Joseph  Hill  and  M. 
Paul  Led6  (with  me  exactly  alike).  Liberty  (not 
a  big  grower,  but  very  floriferoua),  Gustave 
Grunerwald  (rather  fiat),  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant 
(rather  hard  in  colour  after  July),  Frau  Peter 
Lambert,  Mme.  Ravary  and  Le  Progr^s  (both 
thin,  but  the  best  yellow  Hybrid  Teas),  Lyon 
Rose  (quite  a  new  colour  and  a  good  Rose), 
Elizabeth  Barnes,  and  Betty  (if  only  a  little 
fuller  the  most  beautiful  Rose  of  all).  I  am 
discarding  Mildred  Grant  (although  this  grows 
f.iirly  well,  as  I  get  only  an  average  of  one  good 
Rose  per  tree),  K.  A.  Victoria  (none  too  good  a 
grower  and  will  not  open  except  in  the  very  best 
weather),  Mrs.  John  Bateman,  Exquisite  and 
Mamie  (I  do  not  like  the  colour),  and  Countess 
of  Caledon  (bad  shape). — A  Leicester  Re adeb 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


UNCOMMON     BULBOUS     FLOWERS 
FOR    VASES. 

UNDER  the  above  heading  I  am  giving 
a  list  and  short  description  of 
a  few  flowers  which  are  very 
seldom  seen  in  vases,  but  which  I 
can  confidently  recommend  to  those 
who  are  on  the  look-out  for  some- 
thing out  of  the  common. 

Ftather  Hyacinths  (Muscari  plumosum)  are 
interesting  plants  botanically,  on  account  of  all 
their  flowers  having  reverted  to  stems.  They  give 
one  the  idea  of  a  much-branched  inflorescence 
with  all  the  flowers  cut  off,  having  been  bleached 
and  then  dyed  a  sort  of  pale  rosy  lavender.  I 
have  never  seen  any  but  very  poor  specimens 
growing  in  the  open  ground,  and  I  imagine  that 
it  is  necessary  to 
grow  them  under 
glass  to  get  the 
delicacy  of  colour 
which  is  so  pleas- 
ing. A  charac- 
teristic which 
should  be  noted  is 
that,  like  the  Hoop 
Petticoat  Daffodil, 
the  plants  throw 
up  their  leaves  long 
before  the  flower- 
spike.  When  the 
latter  is  first  seen  it 
looks  like  a  little 
hard  pointed 
button  at  the 
bottom  of  the 
leaves,  and  there  it 
remains  for  ever  so 
long  without  much 
outward  change  in 
its  appearance. 
Then  it  elongates 
and  slowly  unfolds 
its  curious,  slender, 
tendril  -  looking 
flowers  (stems), 
which  take  on  a 
pale  rosy  lavender 
colouring  in  the 
process.  When 
fully  grown  the 
whole  is  about 
1  foot  in  height. 
Their  adaptability 
for  bowls  and  vases 
can  be  seen  in  the 
acco  mpan  y  ing 
illustration. 

Qrape  Hyacinths, 
if  they  are  grown 
under  glass,  make 

excellent  subjects  tor  small,  low  vases.  They 
are  valuable  because  there  are  so  very  few 
real  blue  flowers,  and  an  odd  bunch  or  two 
in  a  room  makes  a  very  welcome  change. 
The  well  -  knovni  Heavenly  Blue  variety  is 
particularly  good.  It  has  wiry  stems,  and 
under  glass  they  are  longer  than  in  the  open, 
which  is  an  advantage.  A  combination  of  the 
ordinary  blue  and  white  Grape  Hyacinths 
(M.  botryoides  cseruleum  album  and  pallidum) 
with  Muscari  Heavenly  Blue  makes  a  delightful 
little  harmony  in  blue.  Such  floral  arrange- 
ments consisting  of  different  shades  of  one 
colour  are  very  beautiful  when  they  "go 
together. " 

Ixiolirions. — Although  old  flowers  in  English 
gardens  are,  comparatively  speaking,  almost 
unknown,  it  was  a  revelation  to  me  when  I  first 
saw  them,  and  last  year  I  grew  100  in  pots  for 
cutting  for  the  house.  For  this  purpose  they  are 
ideal.  They  are  slender-growing  plants,  about 
IJ  feet  in  height,  with  thin   stems  and  long. 


narrow  leaves,  bearing  loose,  graceful  umbels  of 
pale  blue  tubular  flowers.  I  have  heard  them 
described  as  blue  Freesias,  and  the  resemblance 
is  a  good  deal  closer  than  such  popular  descrip- 
tions often  are.  In  light  soils  and  warm  positions 
they  are  hardy,  and  bloom  in  the  first  half  of 
June.  By  growing  them  in  a  cool  greenhouse 
they  can  be  had  in  flower  early  in  May.  I  am 
unable  to  say  if  they  will  stand  mild  forcing,  as 
I  grew  them  in  pots  last  year  for  the  first  time. 
They  last  in  good  condition  a  long  time  in  water, 
and  when  to  this  important  characteristic  we  add 
the  gracefulness  of  their  habit  and  the  pleasing 
colour  of  their  blooms,  their  adaptability  as  cut 
flowers  is  apparent. 

The  Parrot  Flower  and  Its  Child. — In  some 
lists  Alstroemeria  psittacina  is  called  the  Parrot 
Flower,  and  as  Alstrcemeria  Erembaulti  is  a 
hybrid  raised  from  it  I  have  headed  this  para- 
graph as  above.  Quite  by  accident,  or  rather 
from  necessity,  as  I  was  very  short  of  a  change 


rBATHEK  HYACINTHS. 

of  flowers  from  Sweet  Peas,  not  having  enough 
of  either  kind  to  make  a  vase  by  itself,  I  put  the 
two  together.  The  pale  salmon  rose  of  Erem- 
baulti harmonises  so  well  with  the  curious,  deep 
crimson,  green-tipped  flowers  of  psittacina,  and 
the  whole  vase  has  such  a  quiet,  restful  look 
about  it,  that  it  is  sure  to  be  "just  the  thing" 
for  some  place  that  has  been  difficult  to  fill. 
Erembaulti  is  not  hardy,  and  must  be  grown  in 
good,  light  sandy  soil  in  a  cool  greenhouse. 
Psittacina  is  hardy,  and  should  be  planted 
4  inches  deep  in  light  soil  in  a  sunny  position. 
It  also  does  well  as  a  pot  plant  with  the  same 
treatment  as  the  former  Dormant  tubers  should 
be  procured  in  late  autumn  before  growth 
commences.  Joseph  Jacob. 

[It  is  a  great  pleasure  to  read  Mr.  Jacob's 
contribution,  and  we  hope  it  will  bring  this  inter- 
esting class  of  bulbs  into  greater  repute.  We  have 
grown  them  for  many  years,  and  found  delight  in 
their  culture.  Many  bulbs  may  be  grown  in 
these  simple  ways. — Ed  ] 


4G8 


THE    GARDEN. 


[September  25,  1909. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

New  Varieties.— La8t  season  Mrs.  Henry  Bell 
was  justifiably  regarded  as  one  of  the  finest 
cream  ground  Sweet  Peas  in  cultivation,  and  it 
is  likely  to  retain  its  favour  with  many  growers  ; 
but  for  exhibition  purposes  it  will,  in  all  proba- 
bility, be  superseded   by  Improved  Mrs.   Henry 

Bell,  which  was  grandly  exhibited  by  Messrs. 

Uobbie  and  Co.     There  can  be  no  question  as  to 

its  superiority,  and  it  would  have  been  far  and 

away  better  if  another  name  liid  been  given  ;  it 

is  quite  distinct  from  Mrs.  Henry  Bell,  and  the 

names  are  almost  sure  to  lead  to 

a  considerable  amount  of  confusion 

sooner  or  later. 

Kathleen  Maogowan,  one  of  Mr. 

Breadmore's  introductions,  is  one 

of  the    most    attractive    in    the 

lavender  group,  for  it  has  a  beau- 
tiful suffusion  of  colour  that  makes 

it  appeal  strongly  to   the  ladies 

and  also   to   some   of    the    men. 

Gwendoline,    which    was  sent   to 

Reading   by   Messrs.   House  and 

Son,    is    not   one   of   the   largest 

flowers   by   any   means,    but    the 

Cambridge    blue    shade     should 

ensure   it  a  welcome  from  those 

who  do  not  consider  that  immense 

size  is   the  only  recommendation 

worth  considering  in  a  Sweet  Pea 

nowadays.     The  flower  is  of  fine 

substance   and   good   form.     Two 

other   lavenders  of    which  much 

has  been  heard  in  the  last  season 

lire   Mrs.    Bieberstedt    and    Mrs. 

Walter   Carter,  the  former  from 

Messrs.  Bell  and  Bieberstedt,  and 

the  latter    from    Messrs.    G.    A. 

Bunting     and     Co.     Both    carry 

waved    flowers    of     considerable 

size  and  admirable  for  shape  and 

substance.      The  first- named  was 

true,  while  the  second-named  was 

perfectly  true  and  especially  beau- 
tiful in  one  row  at  Reading,  but 

in  another  row  it  was  most  hope- 
lessly mixed. 

Marjorie  Willis   has    been   ex- 
hibited  magnificently    this    year 

and  has  risen  decidedly  in  general 

favour  ;  it  was  distributed  by  Mr. 

W.  Lumley  in  the  same  season  as 

Constance  Oliver,  and  appears  to 

have    been  overwhelmed   by  the 

excellence  and  instant  popularity  of  its  cream 
and  rose  sister.  The  flowers  are  large  and 
especially  brilliant  in  colour,  but  they  do  not 
always  come  as  attractively  waved  as  one  would 
like  to  see.  Hannah  Dale,  which  is  a  very 
distinct  shade  of  maroon,  continues  a  favourite  ; 
indeed,  it  grows  in  esteem,  although  it  does  not 
belong  to  the  waved  section  that  is  so  high  in 
popularity.  Dudley  Lees  and  Silas  Cole  are 
worthy  of  note,  but  the  latter  has  not  yet  been 
properly  fixed,  as  far  as  I  am  aware.  Prince 
of  Asturias  has  more  than  maintained  its  repu- 
tation ;  the  splendid  blooms  have  attracted  the 
attention  of  everyone,  and  the  seeds  have  proved 
far  more  reliable  than  they  did  in  previous 
seasons. 

Messrs.  Bide  and  Son  sent  to  Reading  a  brilliant 
variety  which  they  called  Orange  King,  and  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  find  a  more  agree- 
able name,  since  it  precisely  describes  the  colour 
of  the  flower  and,  at  the  same  time,  indicates  its 
general  excellence.  If  we  could  only  get  one  of 
this  shade  to  stand  in  the  sun  it  would  be  as 
welcome  as  any  Sweet  Pea  in  cultivation,  for  it 
is  a  colour  that  appeals  strongly  to  all.  A  cream 
ground  with  a  delicate  rose  stripe  accurately 
describes  Mrs.  Tigwell,  which  was  sent  to 
Reading  by  Mr.  Tigwell.  It  is  a  fine  flower, 
but  not  one  that  everybody  will  run  after, 
simply  because  of  the  comparative  unpopu- 
laritj'  of  the  colour.     For  downright  ugliness — if 


there  can  be  such  a  thing  as  ugliness  in  a  Sweet 
Pea — commend  me  to  some  of  the  forms  of  Senator 
Spencer  which  have  been  seen  on  every  hand  this 
season.  No  doubt  there  are  people  who  will 
cultivate  them  for  their  distinctness,  but  I  am  of 
the  opinion  that  we  can  do  very  well  without 
them. 

Other  notable  varieties  that  have  the  name 
of  Spencer  attached  to  them  are  Queen  of  Spain, 
Coecinea  and  Othello,  and  of  the  trio  the 
first-named  is  the  most  attractive  in  colour,  while 
the  last-named  will  probably  become  the  most 
popular  for  exhibition.     There  are  several  others 


ARCH    CLOTHED    WITH    ROSE    CRIMSON    RAMBLER    ON    THE 
ROSE    BLUSH    RAMBLER   ON    THE  RIGHT. 


that  perhaps  deserve  a  word  of  commendation, 
but  I  feel  that  I  have  now  taken  up  quite  suflS- 
cient  space  with  the  novelties,  and  will,  there- 
fore, in  my  next  notes  turn  back  to  the  cultural 
questions,  which,  after  all,  are  of  supreme  im- 
portance to  the  amateur.  Spencer. 


COLOURED     PLATE 

PLATE    1383. 


r 


MICHAELMAS  DAISIES. 
HERE  can  assuredly  be  no  more 
appropriate  time  to  touch  upon  the 
merits  of  the  Michaelmas  Daisy  than 
the  very  threshold  of  the  season 
itself,  when  we  are  daily  expecting 
the  unfolding  of  a  few  more  hundreds 
or  thousands  of  the  blossoms  of  these  plants 
which  make  gay  the  garden  at  that  particular 
time  and  render  it  a  source  of  pleasure  and 
delight  far  into  the  waning  months  of  the  year. 

Asters  botanically,  though  popularised  to  a 
far  greater  extent  by  their  well-known  names  of 
Starworts  and  Michaelmas  Daisies,  these  indis- 
pensable hardy  garden  flowers  are  known  to  all, 
are  within  the  reach  of  all,  and  may  be  grown  by 
all  who  possess  a  garden,  large  or  small. 
Possibly,   however,   the   very   simple   nature   of 


their  cultural  requirements  and  the  free  manner 
of  increase  in  not  a  few  of  the  varieties  or  groups 
play  the  part  of  a  stumbling-block  and  pre- 
vent their  being  seen  to  a  far  greater  advan- 
tage in  many  gardens  than  is  the  case  to-day. 
A  scarce  or  a  comparatively  scarce  plant  is 
accorded  attention  in  greater  degree  than  a 
commonplace  subject  because  of  these  very  facts, 
and  while  the  better  side  of  the  former  is 
revealed  by  increasing  care,  the  latter  is  just  as 
frequently  permitted  to  take  care  of  itself,  as 
we  are  wont  to  say,  and  not  infrequently  allowed 
to  fall  into  neglect  altogether.  Neglect,  indeed, 
of  the  Michaelmas  Daisy  in  the 
past  was  the  order  of  the  day, 
as  was  evidenced  by  the  thickets 
of  starved  and  often  leafless  shoots 
and  poor  and  often  colourless 
blossoms.  To-day,  however,  and 
for  years  past  the  lesson  of  the 
youthful  plant  and  periodic  plant- 
ing has  revealed  all  that  wealth 
of  beauty  and  charm  that  belongs 
to  the  Starwort  by  nature,  and  the 
rubbishy  and  untidy  masses  of 
former  years  have  given  place  to 
fleecy  clouds  of  grey  and  white 
and  blue — the  latter  in  almost 
endless  gradations  and  shades — 
that  make  pictures  in  the  garden 
and  the  landscape  and  make  one 
long  to  live  at  peace  with  Nature 
and  her  children. 

This  is  no  fanciful  picture,  as 
those  who  have  seen  the  best  of 
these  things  in  their  unrestrained 
thousands,  as  at  Gravetye  or  at 
Kew — now  sweeping  the  grass  or 
raising  their  heads  near  the  ever- 
green bush  or  sombre  Pine,  or 
forming  drifts  that  presently  dis- 
appear in  the  landscape  or  the 
woodland — can  testify.  It  is  in 
these  ways,  thinly  grouped,  un- 
fettered and  unrestrained  by  stake 
or  cord,  that  beautiful  pictures 
may  be  created  in  park,  woodland, 
or  their  near  approaches,  pictures 
which,  while  telling  afresh  of  the 
"  art  which  doth  mend  Nature," 
afford  additional  beauty  and  pic- 
turesqueness  to  the  garden  and  its 
environment. 
EFT  AND  jjj  jjjg    garden  proper   a   cer- 

tain restraint  will  be  necessary, 
though  even  here  we  may  cultivate 
these  Starworts  in  a  free  and  generous  way  and 
cause  them  to  yield  of  their  very  best.  The 
Michaelmas  Daisy  is  of  so  accommodating  a 
nature  as  to  permit  of  its  being  planted  over  the 
long  period  from  autumn  to  spring,  the  latter 
finding  most  favour  in  those  instances  where  the 
borders  are  replanted  each  year.  Popular  beyond 
all  expectations  during  recent  years,  the  varieties 
are  very  numerous  to-day  ;  but  in  such  groups  as 
Amellus,  cordifolius,  Novi-Belgii,  ericoides  and 
NovK-Anglise  the  best  varieties  will  be  found. 
The  heights  range  from  1  foot  to  6  feet,  hence 
all  requirements  may  be  suited.  At  another 
time  I  may  be  permitted  to  call  attention  to 
the  best  of  each  set. 

In  the  accompanying  coloured  plate  is  given 
a  representation  of  Beauty  of  Colwall,  the  most 
remarkable  break  in  the  Michaelmas  Daisy  that 
has  yet  been  known.  The  plant,  too,  is  one  of 
great  beauty,  the  flowers  perfectly  double,  of  a 
pleasing  shade  of  lavender,  and  produced  with 
the  utmost  profusion  for  weeks  together.  It  is  a 
plant  for  the  florist  and  the  private  or  market 
gairdener.  By  reason  of  its  unique  character,  it 
was  given  the  exceptional  award  of  a  first-class 
certificate  by  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
in  September,  1907,  and  has  since  been  intro- 
duced to  cultivation  by  Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware, 
Limited,  Feltham,  who  kindly  supplied  the 
flowers  from  which  the  nnlonred  illustration  was 
prepared.  E.  H.  Jenkins. 


September  25,  1909. J 


THE    GARDEN 


469 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 


NOTES  ON  NEWER  ROSES.-III. 

(Continued  Jrom  page  4^9.  J 

Htbkid  Teas. 

1AM  understating  the  fact  when  I  say  that 
two  out  of  every  three  new  Koses  are 
Hybrid  Teas,  and  if  the  term  "Hybrid 
Tea "  has  eome  to  mean,  and  to  be 
synonymous  with,  length  of  flowering 
period  as  well  as  freedom  of  flower, 
ooupled  with  a  vigorous  habit  of  growth  and 
a  strong  constitution,  one  would  not  have  it 
otherwise,  and  I  think  there  is  little  doubt  that 
it  has.  An  illustration  will  show  what  I  mean. 
Take  Frau  Karl  Drusohki,  for  example,  called  by 
custom  a  Hybrid  Perpetual,  but  denied  its 
right  to  the  title  by  not  a  few,  who,  when  asked 
for  their  reason,  do  not  say  "its  parents  were 
so-and-so,"  but  "it  is  too  free-flowering  for  a 
Hybrid  Perpetual,"  or  "  it  flowers  too  well  in  the 
autumn,"  and  must  therefore  be  a  Hybrid  Tea, 
a  curious  7ion  sequitv/r,  but  I  think  it  accounts 
for  many  a  Hybrid  Perpetual  getting  a  Hybrid 
Tea  label.  After  all,  it  is  not  a  matter  of  real 
importance,  only  it  goes  against  the  grain  of 
some  of  us  that  anything  connected  with  the 
Rose  should  not  be  absolutely  correct.  I  find 
the  first  of  the  Hybrid  Teas,  taking  them 
alphabetically,  that  figures  in  my  notes  is 

Albatross,  sent  out  in  1908  by  William  Paul  and 
Sons  of  Waltham  Cross. — I  have  not  grown  this 
Kose,  but  have  seen  it  very  good ;  it  is  a  very 
large  flower,  ivory  white  in  colour,  with  large 
petals  that  appear  to  fold  over,  however,  rather 
than  to  come  to  a  good  point.  Growth  short 
and  sturdy  rather  than  vigorous,  as  one  would 
expect  from  a  White  Lady  seedling,  which,  I 
think,  Albatross  is.  The  flower  is  well  named, 
as  at  a  certain  period  the  great  outside  petals 
seem  to  spread  like  outstretched  wings.  It 
should  have  a  future  before  it,  especially  under 
glass.  The  raisers  say  it  is  more  durable  than 
Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

Alice  Roosevelt. — I  do  not  know  the  raiser  of 
this  Rose,  nor  have  I  seen  it  yet  in  any  English 
catalogue,  but  I  can  recommend  it  to  trade  and 
amateur  alike.  Its  distinguishing  feature  is 
colour — a  beautiful  soft  deep  pink  that,  as  far  as 
I  know,  is  quite  distinct.  It  is  a  good  grower 
and  should  make  a  fine  bedding  Rose,  but  is  no 
good  to  the  exhibitor. 

Ards  Rambler  (Alexander  Dickson  and 
Sons,  1908). — It  is  a  pity  this  Rose  was  sent 
out  with  the  name  that  is  attached  to  it.  It 
was,  I  believe,  so  named  back  in  the  nineties, 
when  possibly  the  word  Rambler  had  not  acquired 
the  significance  it  now  has  ;  it  has  nothing  in 
common  with  the  ramblers  as  now  known.  The 
Rose  does  not  ramble,  and  its  flowers,  which  are 
produced  singly,  will  come  as  large  as  any 
Hybrid  Perpetual ;  colour  deep  cherry  carmine. 
Should  make  a  fine  pillar  Rose,  and  flowers  can 
be  produced  up  to  exhibition  form.  When  well 
established  may  fairly  be  called  free-flowering 
for  the  type.  Sweet-scented,  with  good  foliage. 
Good  in  autumn. 

Alice  KoeplcR  Demoy  (1907).— This,  I  think,  I 
may  fairly  say  is  not  wanted.  White,  with  an 
oeoasional  tint  of  pale  yellow  at  the  bottom  of 
the  petal,  best  describes  its  flowers  ;  and  we 
have  many  similar  Roses,  some  of  which,  Mme. 
.Jenny  Gillemot  for  instance,  are  better.  I  do 
not  say  that  if  looked  for  there  may  not  be  a 
difference,  but  it  is  not  sufficiently  apparent  or 
of  enough  importance  to  make  it  worth  while 
growing  or  perpetuating  the  variety. 

Avoca  (Alexander  Dickson  and  Sons,  1907). — 
This  is  a  good  Rose,  rather  late  in  time  of 
flowering,  but  none  the  worse  for  that.  As 
a  maiden  the  growth  is  so  tall  that,  owing  to 
its  flowering  only  at  the  end  of  the  shoot,  it  is 
August  before  one  sees  it,  but  it  behaves  better 
a  out-back.     Its  flowers  are  a  fine  colour,  a 


shape  and  form.  One  must  call  it  crimson- 
soarlet,  or  perhaps  soarlet-crimson  would  be 
more  accurate.  To  those  who  prefer  beauty  of 
form  to  substance  or  weight  it  will  strongly 
appeal.  It  is  distinctly  one  of  those  Roses  that 
improve  on  acquaintance.  Strong  grower,  fine 
foliage,  but  tall  in  habit,  good  perfume.  A  gold 
medal  Rose  that  has  been  well  exhibited  this 
season,  which  seems  to  have  suited  it. 

Beatrice  (William  Paul  and  Son,  1908).— What 
little  I  have  seen  of  this  Rose  I  have  liked.  It 
has  a  good  depth  of  petal  (that  promises  well 
from  the  exhibitor's  standpoint)  and,  con- 
sequently, produces  a  large  flower  of  good 
colour,  reminiscent  of  La  France.  When  known 
better  will  be  wanted.  Has  been  well  exhibited 
by  the  raisers  at  the  Temple  and  Holland  House. 
I  wish  I  could  add  the  National  Rose  Society's 

show,  but ! 

Betty  (A.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1905).— Hardly 
comes  within  my  limit,  and  is  only  mentioned 
here  to  say  that  it  has  been  finer  in  colour 
this  year  than  I  remember  to  have  seen  it,  and 
appeared  indifferent  to  wet ;  rather  gloried  in  it 
than  otherwise.  Was  in  nearly  every  box  in  the 
early  part  of  the  season,  garden  Rose  though  it  is. 
Cfhdttau  de  Clos  Vongeot  (Pemet-Ducher,  1908). 
What  a  colour  !  and  what  a  pity  it  is  not  a 
better  grower  !  but  I  am  hoping  it  is  only 
suffering  from  over-production,  and  that  out- 
backs and  outdoor  propagated  plants  will  prove 
that  it  is  not  such  a  bad  grower  as  appearances 
seem  to  point.  Velvety  scarlet,  with  a  dash  of 
brilliancy  that  I  cannot  put  a  name  to,  which  is 
only  seen  in  the  young  flowers,  changing  to 
dark  crimson  in  the  fully  expanded  bloom,  Victor 


elsewhere.  I  think  it  will  give  us  an  occasional 
exhibition  flower  ;  but  a  bed  of  it  would  make  a 
striking  picture.  It  stands  out  by  itself,  very 
free  and  a  good  grower.  The  raisers  have  sent 
out    many  good   Roses,  and  this  one  will   not 


disgrace  them. 
Purley. 


Herbert  E.  Molynbux. 


LONDON 


ROSES  IN  A  NORTH 
GARDEN. 
From  time  to  time  reports  have  appeared  in 
The  Garden  of  the  success  obtained  by  readers 
in  the  culture  of  the  Rose  in  outlying  districts  of 
London.  The  accompanying  illustrations  repre- 
sent Roses  growing  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Howard 
Williams,  Willow  Cottage,  Torrington  Park, 
North  Finchley,  and  although  they  do  not  by 
any  means  do  the  plants  justice,  they  will  at 
least  give  readers  an  idea  of  the  size,  vigour  and 
floriferousnesB  of  the  plants. 

The  arches  were  made  with  rough  Oak  poles  and 
the  height  in  the  centre  when  erected  was  7  feet 
6  inches,  this  allowing  the  shoots  to  hang  down 
and  yet  leave  a  free  pathway  beneath.  Mr. 
Williams  is  a  firm  believer  in  cutting  out  the  old 
flowering  wood  right  down  to  the  ground  as  soon 
as  the  flowers  have  faded  ;  then,  instead  of  tying 
the  young  rods  into  position  at  once,  they  are 
lightly  looped  to  the  arch,  just  to  prevent 
them  being  damaged  by  wind.  By  this  means 
sunshine  and  air,  when  we  get  any  of  the  former, 
are  enabled  to  reach  the  rods  freely,  and  thus 
ripen  them  well  before  the  winter.  When  all 
the  leaves  have  fallen  the  new  rods  are  tied  in 
their  proper  positions. 


R03B   BLUSH  RAMBLER  COVERING  AN   ARCH. 


trifle  on  the  thin  side  perhaps,  but  of  excellent  I  concerned,    and    I    have 


Hugo,  Bardou  Job  and  The  Dandy,  the  colour  of 
all  three  combined.  The  flowers  are  not  large 
and  the  growth  not  vigorous  ;  the  foliage  is  good 
and  scent  delicious.  Too  small  for  exhibition  ; 
but  if  the  growth  improves  will  make  a  very 
useful  addition  to  the  few  reds  the  garden  has. 
My  plants  are,  I  am  afraid,  grafted,  probably  in 
heat,  and  have  not  gone  away  as  one  likes  to 
see  them  after  the  first  flush  of  bloom  is  over ; 
but  it  deserves  and  will  receive  a  further  trial. 

Gomtesse  Icy  Hardegg  (Soupert  et  Netting, 
1908).— This  is,  I  think,  a  real  good  Rose  that 
haB  come  to  stay  ;  its  colour  is  very  fine,  bright, 
clear,  deep  carmine  ;  quite  distinct.  One  of  the 
best  of  the  newer  Roses  as  far  as  my  garden  is 
seen    it    doing    well 


Mr.  Williams  attributes  his  success  with  these 
Roses  to  the  above  cultural  attention  and  to  the 
feeding  of  the  plants  which  he  practises.  Thi$( 
consists  of  a  thorough  soaking  of  strong  cow- 
manure  water  onoe  a  fortnight,  commencing  at 
the  beginning  of  May  and  ceasing  during  the 
early  days  of  July.  The  plants  which  are 
covering  the  arches  were  planted  four  years  ago. 


ROSE  M.  PAUL  LEDE. 
The  delightful  colouring  of  this  fine  Rose  is 
somewhat  difficult  to  define,  but  perhaps  cinnamon 
pink  shaded  ochre  yellow  would  be  the  best 
description.  It  is  a  grand  variety,  one  that  is 
making  itself  a  great  favourite  in  all  gardens 


470 


THE    GABDEN. 


[Septbmbkr  25,  1909. 


where  tlie  Rose  is  appreciated  as  a  garden  flower. 
There  are  no  pretensions  to  exhibition  merit  in 
the  variety,  but  its  large,  cupped-shaped  blooms, 
although  they  are  somewhat  drooping,  are  of 
such  an  enchanting  shade  of  colour  that  everyone 
must  admire  it. 

The  growth  is  moderately  vigorous  when  the 
plant  is  established,  although  at  first  it  is  some- 
what stumpy,  but  by  no  means  frail.  The  large, 
massive  foliage,  of  a  deep  green  colour,  oontra.st8 
grandly  with  the  blooms.  This  variety  is  very 
free,  producing  quantities  of  exquisite  buds, 
which  become  an  intense  orange  yellow  colour 
towards  autumn,  and  they  also  possess  a  nice 
refreshing  fragrance.  Amateurs  may  sometimes 
look  in  vain  for  the  name  in  catalogues,  for  fre- 
quently the  prefix  Monsieur  is  not  attached.  This 
is  how  the  raiser,  M.  Pernet-Duoher,  catalogues  it. 
Why  English  growers  override  the  raiser's  mode  of 
nomenclature  is  rather  a  mystery.  I  am  glad  to 
notice  that  the  National  Rose  Society  in  their 
official  catalogue  gives  the  prefix  Monsieur, 
although  they  drop  the  word  Madame  when 
naming    Caroline    Testout.      However,   perhaps 


THE     GREENHOUSE 


EELWORM  IN  LEAVES  OF  GREEN- 
HOUSE PLANTS. 
FROM  time  to  time  correspondents  send 
us  specimens  of  leaves  of  Begonia, 
especially  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  and  of 
Fern  leaves  showing  brown  marks  on 
the  under  surface,  or  even  quite 
through  the  leaf,  and  comment  upon 
the  damage  done  and  the  great  difficulty  they 
have  experienced  in  getting  the  better  of  the 
pest,  whatever  it  may  be.  In  the  Begonia  the 
brown  spots  have  a  curious  semi-transparent 
appearance,  and  the  disease  is  frequently  called 
rust,  as  though  it  were  allied  to  the  rust  that 
attacks  the  Chrysanthemum  or  to  that  attacking 
the  Carnation. 

There  appear  to  be  two  or  three  different 
causes  producing  this  rusty  appearance  on  the 
leaves,  mites  sometimes  being  the  source  of  the 
injury  ;  but  very  often  no  trace  of  mites  can  be 


ONB   OF  THE   MOST  BEAnxrFCL  OF  GARDEN    ROSES — M.   PAUL   LEDE.     {Reduced.) 


this  is  a  minor  point,  only  it  causes  trouble  to 
the  novice  when  searching  catalogues. 

The  Rose  under  notice  makes  a  splendid  pot 
plant,  and  in  strong  heat  the  colour  comes  a  most 
intense  shade  of  coppery  pink.  This  feature  of 
deepened  colour  when  grown  indoors  is  peculiar 
to  many  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  having  the  orange 
yellow  shading.  The  illustration  is  from  a 
photograph  taken  recently  in  Messrs.  Stuart  Low 
and  Co.  's  nurseries.  P. 


ROSE    MRS.    A.    R.    WADDELL. 

We  have  in  this  new  Rose  a  variety  remarkable 
for  its  colouring.  The  flower  is  semi-double 
and  not  specially  elegant  in  shape,  but  the 
intense  ochre-red  flowers  attract  attention 
immediately.  It  reminds  me  much  of  an  old 
Tea  Rose  named  Perle  de  Feu,  except  that  it  is 
a  better  grower.  It  is  rather  remarkable  that 
two  or  three  novelties  having  these  very  intense 
coloured  flowers  should  have  appeared  almost 
simultaneously.  P. 


found,  and  the  microscope  reveals  instead  the 
presence  of  innumerable  eelworms  buried  in  the 
tissues  of  the  leaf.  The  particular  eelworm 
doing  the  damage  is  known  scientifically  as 
Aphelenchus  olesistus,  and  it  not  only  attacks 
the  plants  mentioned,  but  also  Chrysanthemum, 
Ficus,  Coleus,  Saintpaulia  and  other  plants. 
The  pest  gains  an  entrance  to  the  plant  from  the 
soil  through  the  roots,  making  its  way  up  the 
stem  to  the  leaves,  where  the  damage  is  done, 
and  no  external  application  can  have  the  least 
effect  upon  it.  It  is  far  too  small  to  see  with 
the  naked  eye,  and  so  the  faot  that  the  soil  used 
in  potting  the  plants  may  teem  with  the  pest  is 
overlooked. 

The  utmost  precautions  should  be  taken  to 
ensure  that  the  soil  used,  the  pots  and  the  pieces 
of  plants  used  for  propagation  are  all  free  from 
the  pest.  The  better  plan  would  be  to  propa- 
gate only  from  quite  healthy  plants,  and  not 
trust  to  the  pieces  of  the  old  plants  which  were 
diseased  in  some  parts  being  free  because  they 
do  not  happen  to  show  brown  spots  at  the  time 


they  are  removed  from  the  parent  plant.  Old 
potting  soil  should  on  no  account  be  used,  and  it 
is  necessary  to  see  that  none  of  it  gets  on  to  the 
potting-benches.  The  pots  should  be  thoroughly 
cleaned,  and  would  be  better  if  dipped  in  hot 
water  to  ensure  the  death  of  the  pest,  and  the 
soil  itself  may  with  advantage  be  steamed  or 
heated  in  an  oven  before  being  used  in  which  to 
pot  the  plants. 

All  the  parts  of  plants  that  show  the  trouble 
ought,  of  course,  to  be  burnt  out  of  hand,  and 
no  pains  should  be  spared  to  get  rid  of  the  pest 
as  soon  as  possible  after  it  makes  its  appearance. 

HOW  TO  FORCE  SPIR^AS. 
Those  gardeners  who  have  a  greenhouse  which 
they  wish  to  keep  gay  during  the  winter  and  spring 
months  are  obliged  to  force  a  number  of  plants 
of  various  kinds  for  the  purpose.  The  Spiraeas, 
especially  S.  japonica,  are  very  useful  and 
exceedingly  decorative.  Very  few  kinds  of 
plants  bear  such  a  quantity  of  foliage  in  as  short 
a  time,  and  few  have  such  beautifully  feathered 
flowers.  Plants  now  growing  in  the  open  borders 
may  be  lifted  and  placed  in  pots  when  the  old 
stems  have  died.  The  roots  may  also  be  pur- 
chased from  the  nurserymen  and  bulb  merchants. 
Inexperienced  cultivators  very  often  make  the 
mistake  of  using  pots  that  are  much  too  large  for 
the  clumps,  and  as  the  plants  require  a  lot  of 
water  the  surplus  soil  becomes  sour  and  the 
foliage  quickly  turns  yellow.  The  pots  must  ba 
just  large  enough  to  contain  the  clumps  and  h 
very  small  quantity  of  loam,  leaf-soil  and  sand 
mixed.  Spiraeas  root  very  freely  in  moist  leal  - 
soil. 

The  drainage  of  the  pots  must  be  perfect,  but 
a  large  quantity  of  crocks  are  not  needed  :  one 
large,  hollow  piece  of  potsherd  and  a  few  small 
ones  are  quite  sufficient.  On  the  crocks  place  a 
few  freshly  fallen  tree  leaves,  and  then  complete 
the  potting,  leaving  sufficient  room  at  the  top 
for  watering  later  on.  The  crowns  of  the  plants 
will  not  be  damaged  by  exposure  to  frosts  before 
the  roots  are  put  into  the  forcing-house,  but  the 
pots  may  be  broken  and  the  roots  will  suffer, 
too  ;  therefore,  protect  the  pots  from  severe 
frosts. 

,_In  order  to  encourage  early  root-action  the 
pots  should  be  plunged  in  a  gentle  hot-bed,  but 
this  is  not  absolutely  necessary.  The  roots  may 
be  placed  on  the  floor  near  the  hot-water  pipes 
or  on  the  stages.  If  they  are  syringed  several 
times  daily,  new  growths  will  soon  commence  ; 
then  all  that  the  cultivator  need  do  is  to  keep 
the  plants  well  watered  and,  when  roots  are 
plentiful,  fed  with  liquid  manure. 


CAMPANULA    PYRAMIDALIS    IN 
POTS. 

The  amateur  generally,  and  the  owner  of  a 
greenhouse  in  particular,  cannot  do  better  than 
have  a  nice  stock  of  strong  plants  of  the  above 
in  flower-pots.  Seedlings  raised  this  autumn 
will  not  flower  next  year,  but  one  year  old 
plants  will.  I  mention  this  so  as  not  to  cause 
disappointment  to  inexperienced  cultivators. 
This  Campanula  makes  strong,  thong-like  roots, 
which  soon  fill  a  small  pot ;  therefore,  I  advise 
cultivators  to  use  pots  at  least  6  inches  in 
diameter.  The  compost  should  be  a  mixture  of 
good  loam  and  leaf-soil  in  equal  proportions, 
with  a  9-inoh  potful  of  well-rotted  manure  and 
a  7-incb  potful  of  coarse  sand  to  a  bushel  of  it. 
Pot  the  plants  firmly  and  winter  them  on  a  bed 
of  ashes  in  a  cool  frame,  or,  failing  the  frame,  on 
a  bed  in  a  dry  position  in  the  open  air.  The 
stately  spikes  of  white  and  blue  blossoms 
respectively  look  grand  in  greenhouses,  con- 
servatories and  windows  during  July,  August 
and  September.  This  Campanula  is  one  of  the 
most  stately  and  beautiful  of  its  family,  and  it 
should  be  more  grown  in  our  plant  houses  than 
it  is  at  the  present  time.  It  lasts  long  in 
bloom.  Shamrock. 


Shptember  25,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


471 


TREES    AND   SHRUBS 

THE    WILLOW    SCALE    INSECT. 

A  SCALE  insect,  known  aoientifieally  as 
Chionaspis  salieis,  is  sometimes 
very  prevalent  on  various  kinds  of 
Willow,  Ash,  Lime,  Lilac  and  other 
^  trees  and  bushes,  and  if  steps  are  not 
taken  to  check  its  progress  the  plants 
attacked  are  considerably  weakened  and  eventu- 
ally killed.  A  slight  attack  may  pass  unnoticed, 
but  if  the  insects  once  become  well  established 
their  presence  attracts  the  attention  of  the  most 
unobservant  individual.  The  insects  themselves 
are  very  small,  and  even  the  scaly  covering  is 
smaller  and  thinner  than  that 
of  many  scale  insects.  This 
covering  is,  however,  the  con- 
spicuous part,  and  during 
summer  it  is  usually  light 
grey,  darkening  with  dirt 
and  from  other  causes 
towards  autumn.  After  the 
death  of  the  insects  the  soaly 
coverings  remain  on  the 
branches,  and  living  and  dead 
together  are  sometimes  so 
thick  as  to  completely  cover 
the  bark. 

Injury  to  the  trees  is 
caused  by  the  insects  suck- 
ing the  juices,  and  it  can 
readily  be  imagined  that  in 
the  case  of  bad  attacks  a 
considerable  amount  of 
damage  may  be  done  in  a 
single  season.  The  less 
vigorous  trees  in  a  collection 
are  usually  the  first  to  be 
attacked.  The  females  lay 
numerous  eggs  beneath  the 
scale-like  covering,  and  Ihese 
hatch  out  in  spring.  The 
young  insects  can  move  about 
quickly,  and  at  this  stage 
the  disease  is  spread.  After 
a  short  time  they  attach 
themselves  to  branches 
ready  for  sucking  the  sap, 
lose  their  legs  and  gradually 
acquire  the  scaly  covering. 

Affected  trees  ought  to  be 
sprayed  two  or  three  times 
in  February  and  March,  before 
the  buds  begin  to  burst,  with 
a  caustic  wash  composed  of 
caustic  soda  (98  per  cent.), 
21b. ;  soft  soap,  lib. ;  paraffin, 
5  pints  ;  and  soft  water, 
10  gallons.  To  make  this 
wash  dissolve  the  soft  soap 
in  a  gallon  of  boiling  water, 
and  while  hot  add  the 
paraffin  and  stir  into  a 
creamy  liquid.  Dissolve  the 
caustic  soda  in  nine  gallons 
of  soft  water,  and  into  the 
solution  pour  the  paraffin 
emulsion  and  mix 
thoroughly.  Apply  on  a 
calm  day  with  a  fine-ne^zled  sprayer.  It 
is,  however,  rather  later  in  tLe  year  that 
the  pest  can  be  most  effectually  dealt  with, 
though  a  large  proportion  of  eggs  may  be 
destroyed  by  the  above-mentioned  wash.  During 
April  and  May,  when  the  insects  are  active, 
spray  the  trees  once  a  week  with  a  compound  of 
paraffin  and  soft  soap,  using  half  a  pound  of  soft 
soap  and  five  pints  of  paraffin  to  ten  gallons  of 
water.  At  this  time  the  caustic  soda  cannot  be 
used  on  account  of  the  young  leaves  ;  if  the 
paraffin  is  kept  well  mixed,  however,  no  harm 
will  follow  from  its  use,  and  it  will  be  strong 
enough  to  kill  the  young  insects.  The  Lilac 
that  is  attacked  more  frequently  than  any  other 
is  Syringa  chinensis  (sometimes  called  the  Rouen 


Lilac),  especially  when  it  is  growing  on  dry, 
sandy  soil.  In  the  event  of  a  bad  attack  it  will 
probably  be  necessary  to  spray  for  a  couple  of 
seasons  before  the  disease  is  thoroughly  stamped 
out.  D. 


THE    AMERICAN    MOUNTAIISl     ASH. 

The  Rowan  or  Mountain  Ash  (Pyrua  Aucuparia), 
which  is  so  well  known  in  British  gardens  and 
woodlands  as  an  ornamental  fruiting  tree,  is 
equalled  in  America  in  decorative  value  by  its 
near  relative,  Pyrus  americana.  The  two  trees 
are  very  similar  in  many  respects,  for  they  both 
have  pinnate  leaves  and  large,  flattened  heads  of 
coral  red  fruits,  and  both  grow  to  about  the  same 


varieties  are  known  which  differ  from  the  type 
in  the  colour  of  the  fruit  or  in  habit.  P.  A.  fruotu 
albo  has  white  fruits,  P.  A.  mierocarpa  smaller 
fruits  than  the  type,  and  P.  A.  nana  is  of  rather 
dwarf  habit  and  is  of  slow  growth.  The  tree 
requires  no  special  culture  and  succeeds  in 
ordinary  garden  soil.  W.  D. 


EUCBYPHTA    OlKDIFOLIA. 

height.  The  American  tree  is,  however,  some- 
what stiffer  in  habit,  with  thicker  shoots  and 
larger  buds  ;  the  fruits  also  are  often  a  little 
smaller.  It  is  said  to  be  widely  distributed  in 
America,  and  is  found  growing  in  moist  ground 
from  Newfoundland  southwards  to  Carolina  and 
Michigan.  It  rarely  exceeds  30  feet  in  height, 
and  its  trunk  diameter  ranges  from  12  inches  to 
18  inches.  The  leaves  are  composed  of  an 
indefinite  number  of  leaflets,  which  are  usually 
found  to  be  from  eleven  to  seventeen  in  number. 
The  heads  of  flowers  are  from  3  inches  to  6  inches 
across,  and  the  clusters  of  fruit  are  about  similar 
in  size.  In  America  some  use  is  made  of  the 
bark  for  medicinal  purposes.  It  is  bitter  and 
astringent,  and    is   used    as   a   tonic.      Several 


A    RARE    FLOWERING    SHRUB. 

(EUCRYPHIA   CORDIFOLIA.) 

This  species  is  previously  recorded  as  having 
flowered  at  the  Coombe  Wood  Nurseries  of 
Messrs.  J.  Veitoh  and  Sons  in  1897  and  in  Mr. 
Gumbleton's  garden  at  Queenstown  in  1907.  In 
The  Garden,  Vol.  LXX.,  page  190,  a  correspon- 
dent writes  of  it  as  flowering 
in  Scotland  ;  but  in  this  case 
there  is  evidently  a  mistake 
as  to  the  identity  of  the 
specimen.  The  illustration 
in  that  issue  shows  unmis- 
takably the  larger,  looser 
flowers  and  the  divided  and 
more  horizontally  placed 
foliage  of  E.  ptnnatifida 
E.  cordifolia  has  entire,  per- 
sistent leaves  of  a  dark 
glossy  green,  which  often 
grow  almost  erect.  Its 
flowers  are  from  2  inches  to 
2i  inches  in  diameter,  almost 
circular,  the  petals  being 
white  and  prettily  fluted  and 
enclosing  a  boss  of  golden 
brown  stamens. 

A  plant  of  this  beautiful 
_  Chilian  shrub   has  recently 

A^hH  flowered   in  these   gardens. 

'^^^^m  It  was  planted  in  the  spring 

■i^^^^m  of     1906    in     a    somewhat 

^^^^^^^^^_  sheltered  border  some  30  feet 
■H|H|^I  distant  from  the  south  side 
^^^^m  of  a  9-feet  wall,  and  was  at 
that  time  about  3  feet  in 
height.  It  now  measures 
8  feet  in  height  and  about 
half  as  much  through.  The 
only  protection  afforded  has 
been  a  few  Laurel  boughs 
inserted  in  the  soil  around 
the  base  and  tied  together 
over  the  top  in  severe 
weather.  Like  many  other 
shrubs  from  the  same  country 
it  grows  late,  and  was  on 
September  11  covered  with 
soft  young  shoots  of  a  light 
brown  colour.  These,  how- 
ever, continue  to  mature 
even  in  cold,  damp  weather 
and,  so  far  as  our  experi- 
ence goes,  suffer  but  little 
injury  from  frost.  The 
natural  soil  here  is  a  shallow 
sandy  loam,  and  with  the 
addition  of  a  little  peat  and 
leaf-mould  it  seems  to  suit 
this  shrub  admirably. 

J.  Comber. 
Handcross,  Sussex. 
[The  illustration   is  from  a  photograph  of  a 
flowering  spray  kindly  sent  by  Mr.  Comber.— Ed.] 


CLERODENDRON  TRICHOTOMUM, 
The  common  name  of  "  Kusagi "  is  applied  to 
this  plant  in  the  eastern  parts  of  Asia,  where  its 
natural  home  is  to  be  found.  It  was  introduced 
to  English  gardens  many  years  ago,  but  never 
appears  to  have  become  really  well  known.  This 
is  to  be  regretted,  for  it  is  of  decorative  appear- 
ance whether  in  leaf  or  flower,  and  possesses 
the  dual  advantage  of  being  a  really  good 
flowering  shrub  and  blossoming  during  late 
autumn,  a  period  when  there  are  not  a  great 
many  good  flowering  shrubs  to  be  found.        D. 


472 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Septembke  25,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Dahlias,  Chry- 
santhemums and  Michaelmas  Daisies 
now  give  fine  patches  of  colour  in  the 
flower  garden  and  espeoially  in  the 
herbaceous  borders.  There  is  no  time 
better  than  the  present  for  taking 
stock,  as  it  were,  of  these  plants.  It  may  be 
that  the  Chrysanthemums  or  Michaelmas  Daisies 


I. — SMALL     BRANCHES     OF     ABBOR-VlTiB     TROM 
WHICH    CUTTrNGS    CAN    l!E    MADE. 

are  not  growing  in  the  best  positions  suitable  to 
them  in  the  borders.  Notes  must  be  made  of 
these  facts  and  what  is  needful  for  their  improve- 
ment, as  all  alterations  must  be  made  during  the 
autumn  and  spring  months.  If  the  Dahlias  are 
wrongly  placed,  then  the  plants  can  be  properly 
arranged  next  year  when  young  ones  are  put  out. 
Holly  hedges  and  specimens  growing  on  lawns  may 
now  be  pruned.  The  knife  only  must  be  used, 
l^idd  shoots  should  be  out  off,  but  no  attempt 
mtist  be  made  to  out  off  the  shoots  with  shears,  as 
this  would  result  in  the  severing  of  leaves  whole- 
sale, and  so  spoil  the  appearance  of  both  hedges 
and  bushes.  By  depending  solely  on  the  knife 
the  work  of  trimming  may  be  more  prolonged, 
but  it  will  be  more  satisfactory.  The  work  of 
rolling  lawns  must  now  be  commenced  in  earnest, 
as  worm-casts  are  becoming  more  general  and 
they  make  the  lawn  look  very  unsightly.  If  a 
lawn  is  regularly  rolled  after  the  worm-casts  have 
been  lightly  brushed  to  and  fro,  it  will  be  greatly 
improved,  whether  the  soil  be  of  a  light  or  heavy 
nature.  Falling  leaves  must  be  carefully  brushed 
up  and  husbanded  in  a  heap  in  some  out-of-the- 
way  corner.  The  resultant  leaf-soil  will  be  of 
great  value,  and  only  gardeners  who  are  able  to 
at  most  collect  the  leaves  from  a  few  trees 
know  its  real  value. 

Vegetable  Garden. — As  slight  frosts  may  occur 
any  night  now,  it  would  be  a  wise  plan  to 
examine  all  the  autumn  Cauliflowers  and  to 
break  down  a  few  of  the  larger  leaves  over  the 
exposed  flowers.  Some  of  the  latter  may  be  well 
covered  with  the  younger  leaves  in  a  natural 
manner,  but  even  in  their  case  it  is  advisable  to 


cover  also  with  large  leaves,  as  the  young  ones 
are  too  tender  to  withstand  frosts.  Do  not 
neglect  the  Celery.  The  wise  cultivator  sees  to 
it  that  all  earthing-up  is  done  in  a  thorough 
manner  before  the  frosts  come.  All  soil  must  be 
dry  when  pressed  around  the  stalks,  and  care 
must  be  taken  to  avoid  letting  any  fall  into 
the  centre  of  the  plants.  A  few  rows  of  Celery 
neatly  earthed-up  look  very  well  in  a  garden. 
Thin  out  late  Turnips  rather  freely  now,  as  those 
remaining  will  bulb  better  and  quicker.  Another 
sowing  of  winter  Radishes  may  now  be  made  in 
the  lightest  soil  in  the  garden.  Dig  the  ground 
deeply  and  well  break  up  the  lumps  before 
sowing  the  seeds.  The  plants  from  former 
sowings  must  be  freely  thinned  out,  else  the  crop 
generally  will  be  a  poor  one. 

Fruit  Oarden.  — No  time  should  be  lost  now  in 
getting  all  the  old  fruiting  canes  out  out  from 
the  Raspberry  plantations.  Some  persons  in 
removing  the  old  canes  strip  off  the  leaves  from 
the  young  ones  wholesale  by  violently  pulling 
away  the  former.  Of  course,  it  is  now  very 
near  the  time  when  the  leaves  will  fall  off 
naturally,  but  if  they  are  stripped  off  prema- 
turely some  damage  to  the  cane  results.  It  is 
far  better  to  cut  out  altogether  a  few  of  the 
young  canes  also,  in  order  to  admit  light  and 
air  to  the  others  where  they  seem  to  be  some- 
what overcrowded,  i.e.,  growing  closer  together 
than  4  inches.  Make  preparations  for  the 
planting  of  new  fruit  trees  by  getting  the  ground 
deeply  trenched. 

Oretnhouse  and  Frames.  —  The  housing  of 
Chrysanthemums  will  now  claim  the  close  atten- 
tion of  the  enthusiastic  cultivator.  In  the  first 
place  it  is  necessary  to  clean  the  stages  and  the 
inside  of  the  structure  generally,  and  to  make 
plans  so  that  the  Chrysanthemums  will  not  take 
up  room  to  the  detriment  of  other  occupants  of 
the  house.  It  is  advisable  to  begin  the  work  in 
good  time,  so  that  faded  leaves  may  be  picked 
off  the  plants  and  all  pots  washed  first.  Better 
results  follow  when  everything  about  the  plants 
is  clean.  All  varieties  showing  very  prominent 
buds  must  be  placed  under  cover  first,  as  if  the 
florets  are  wetted  by  rain  or  dew  they  damp  off 
afterwards.  Certain  plants  may  be  removed  to 
frames  to  make  more  room  in  the  greenhouse. 
The  plants  so  renewed  must  be  suitable 
ones.  B. 

PROPAGATING    THE    ARBOR- VIT.^. 

The  Arbor-vitae  is  the  common  name  of  a  race  of 
hardy  evergreen  coniferous  trees  and  shrubs  that 
is  known  to  the  botanist  under  the  name  of  Thuya 
or  Thuja.  It  is  a  subject  of  great  value  for  garden 
embellishment,  and  at  its  best  is  distinctly  beau- 
tiful and  ornamental.  It  is  by  no  means  a 
difficult  plant  to  grow  satisfactorily.  Opinions 
may  differ  somewhat  as  to  the  time  to  plant  the 
Thuyas,  but,  generally  speaking,  September  to 
November  for  autumn  planting  and  February  to 
April  for  spring  planting  may  be  regarded  as 
suitable  periods  in  which  this  work  should  be 
done.  Some  authorities  are  content  to  plant  in 
either  September  or  May.  If  planted  in  any 
ordinary  good  garden  soil  these  plants  invariably 
do  well,  but  their  prospects  are  brightened  by 
planting  in  good  loam. 

The  Chinese  Arbor-vit«  (Thuya  orientalis) 
makes  an  excellent  plant  for  mixed  shrubberies, 
and  is  also  excellent  as  a  subject  for  an  ever- 
green hedge.  Extremely  beautiful  is  the  golden- 
leaved  form  of  this  same  species,  which  is 
known  as  T.  orientalis  aurea,  both  sorts  attain- 
ing a  height  of  from  '20  feet  to  25  feet.     Other 


excellent  species  are  :  T.  dolabrata,  with  flattened 
branches,  a  handsome  tree  well  adapted  for  small 
lawns  or  for  growing  as  a  hedge.  T.  dolabrata 
laetevirens  is  a  dwarf  form  of  the  last-named,  and 
both  are  natives  of  Japan.  T.  gigantea,  also 
known  as  T.  Lobbii,  is  a  very  popular  tree,  and 
deservedly  so.  It  is  an  excellent  plant  for 
hedges,  and  its  foliage  is  much  brighter  than  the 
varieties  mentioned  above  for  the  same  purpose  ; 
it  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  all  the  species. 
The  American  Arbor-vitae  is  known  by  the 
botanical  name  of  Thuya  occidentalis.  Of  this 
species  there  are  several  beautiful  varieties 
having  variegated  foliage.  Spaee  forbids  our 
mentioning  more  species  than  those  already 
described.  Suffice  it  to  say  they  may  all  be 
propagated  by  cuttings  with  comparative  ease. 

To  simplify  the  matter  for  the  beginner, 
growths  of  two  distinct  species  are  shown  in 
Fig.  1.  These  were  two  email  pieces  cut  out  of 
well-grown  trees,  and  when  severed  they  were 
some  8  inches  to  10  inches  in  length.  From 
growths  of  this  description  it  is  possible  to  detach 
several  shoots  suitable  for  making  into  cuttings. 
Fig.  2  represents  the  same  two  species.  Here  we 
have  side  shoots  that  have  been  detached  from 
growths  similar  to  those  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The 
side  shoots  are  better  described  as  branchlets, 
as  they  are  small  branches  of  the  original 
ones.  The  length  of  these  branchlets  should 
be  anything  between  2  inches  and  3  inches,  and 
if  they  are  taken  off  with  care  they  may  be 
removed  with  a  heel,  as  shown,  at  their  base. 

Having  detached  our  shoots,  the  next  thing  is 
to  prepare  them  as  cuttings,  that  they  may  be 
propagated  successfully.  In  Fig.  3  the  cuttings 
properly  prepared  and  ready   lor  insertion  are 


2.  —  SIDE  GROWTHS  DETACHBU  FROM  THE 
BRANCHES  IN  FIG.  I,  BUT  SHOWN  ON 
A   LARGER  SCALE. 

shown.  Note  how  the  lower,  small,  tooth-like 
leaves  have  been  removed  to  about  half  the  length 
of  the  shoot.  This  preparatory  work  is  necessary 
if  the  rooting  process  is  to  be  all  that  is  desired. 
In  some  oases  (where  there  is  no  heel)  it  is  better 
to  cut  through  the  shoot  just  below  a  joint,  and 
in  others  to  allow  the  heel  to  remain,  as 
root  formation  is  more  rapid  in  consequence. 


Septembee  26,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN 


473 


3. — CUTTIKGS  PKOPEBLY  PKBPABED  AND  READY 
FOR  INSERTION. 

Cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  sandy  soil, 
placed  in  a  cold  frame  or  in  a  Bsrai-shaded 
position  where  a  hand-light  may  be  placed  over 
them.  The  latter  method  is  an  excellent  rule  to 
follow  where  comparatively  few  plants  are  to  be 
reared.  Where  the  demands  are  larger  the  cold 
frame  should  be  requisitioned,  as  quite  a  large 
number  of  young  plants  may  be  raised  by  these 
means.  Sandy  soil  for  propagation  purposes  is 
absolutely  essential  to  success.  Soil  from  a  spent 
Cucumber-frame,  with  the  free  admixture  of 
coarse  sand,  and  this  passed  through  a  sieve  with 
a  half -inch  mesh,  answers  admirably  for  propaga- 
ting purposes.  This  should  be  placed  in  the 
cold  frame  to  the  depth  of  several  inches — say, 
half-a-dozen  or  rather  less — and  be  levelled  and 
made  firm  by  the  aid  of  boards.  Proceed  then 
to  sprinkle  silver  sand  over  the  surface,  and 
subsequently  insert  the  cuttings  half  their 
depth  in  rows,  observing  a  distance  between  the 
cuttings  of  about  2  inches,  and  rather  more 
space  between  the  rows.  Be  particularly  careful 
to  press  the  soil  firmly  at  the  base  of  the 
outtings,  otherwise  failure  to  root  may  ensue. 
Water  in  when  completed,  using  a  fine-rosed  can 
for  the  purpose.  Keep  the  cold  frame  fairly 
close  during  the  rooting  process,  at  the  same 
time  shading  from  bright  sunshine  during  the 
daytime.  D.  B.  C. 


be  well  soaked  before  the  plants  are  lifted. 
Some  soil  will  adhere  to  the  roots,  but  the  greater 
portion  will  fall  ofif.  Do  not  out  away  any  of  the 
roots  even  if  they  are  rather  large  and  straggling, 
but  so  arrange  them  that  they  lie  at  the  base 
of  the  old  ball  of  soil  in  the  new  pots.  Only 
a  small  quantity  of  new  compost  will  be 
needed  in  each  pot.  When  all  the  plants  are 
potted,  place  them  in  a  deep  frame  or  in  a  cool 
house.  Give  one  good  watering,  but  afterwards, 
unless  the  soil  gets  very  dry  in  the  pots, 
light  syringing  will  be  all  that  is  required.  The 
treatment  must  be  such  that  it  will  have  the 
efTect  of  causing  the  leaves  to  very  gradually 
fade.  When  nearly  all  have  faded,  place  the 
pots  close  together  in  a  cool  but  frost-proof 
structure. 


LIFTING   BEDDING-OUT    FUCHSIAS. 

Fuchsias  look  charming  in  the  flower  garden, 
where  of  late  years  they  have  been  somewhat 
extensively  grown.  As  it  takes  at  least  two 
years  to  grow  a  medium  -  sized  specimen, 
every  effort  ought  to  be  made  to  keep  such 
plants  in  good  condition  throughout  the  winter. 
This  does  not  mean  that  the  plants  must  be 
maintained  in  a  growing  condition,  but  in  a 
lea&esB  state.  A  specimen  grown  in  a  flower-pot 
all  the  year  round  gradually  loses  its  leaves  in 
the  autumn  ;  one  grown  in  the  open  border  and 
lifted  does  the  same,  but  later,  owing  to  the 
different  conditions  obtaining.  It  would  not  be 
right  to  suddenly  check  all  growth  in  a  vigorous 
and  full-leaved  plant  and  so  cause  all  the  leaves  to 
fall  prematurely,  as  the  stems  would  shrivel  and 
not  keep  sound  in  the  winter  ;  a  great  portion  of 
the  specimen  would  die  and  hava  to  be  cut  away 
in  spring.  Pots  varying  in  size,  according  to  the 
different  sizes  of  the  plants,  must  be  prepared, 
and  also  a  compost  of  leaf-soil  and  loam  in 
equal  proportions.     If  the  ground  is  dry  it  must 


LIFTING  AND  POTTING  OLD 
BEDDING-OUT  PLANTS. 
As  a  rule  the  old  plants  are  left  in  the  borders 
as  long  as  possible — very  often  until  the  first 
autumn  frost  has  just  nipped  the  leaves. 
When  they  are  lifted  the  roots,  if  large  and 
numerous,  must  be  judiciously  cut  back,  and 
also  the  largest  leaves  cut  off.  Never  mind 
if  the  plants  present  a  somewhat  sorry 
appearance  when  potted  after  such  treatment ; 
they  will  be  all  the  better  for  it  in  spring. 
Use  a  good  potting  soil  without  manure 
in  it,  and  place  the  plants  in  an  airy  green- 
house or  pit.  Keep  the  soil  rather  dry 
and  remove  fading  leaves.  A  temperature  of 
40°  to  55°  will  do  if  the  atmosphere  is  kept 
dry.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

Violets. — There  are  few  persons  who  are  not 
fond  of  Violets  at  all  times,  but  especially  during 
the  winter.  In  town  gardens  Violet-growing  in 
frames  may  be  made  a  very  pleasant  hobby. 
Cultivators  of  these  charmingly  fragrant  flowers 
in  the  open  borders  miss  much  real  enjoyment 
if  they  do  not  also  grow  them  in  frames.  When 
the  snow  lies  on  the  ground,  covering  nearly 
every  border  plant,  it  is  delightful  to  be  able  to 
raise  the  frame-lights  and  gather  a  few  bunches 
of  sweet-scented  Violets ;  it  is  compensation  in 
no  small  degree  for  the  loss  of  border  flowers  at 
the  time. 

How  TO  Grow  the  Plant.s  in  a  Frame. — 
They  can  be  grown  successfully  without  any 
artificial  heat  with  the  protection  afforded  by  the 
frame  only  ;  but  it  is  much  better  to  make  up  a 
hot-bed  in  the  frame  if  the  material,  leaves  and 
littery  manure,  is  available.  Having  put  in  a 
firm  hot-bed,  good  loam  to  a  depth  of  1  foot 
must  be  placed  on  it, 
so  that  the  surface 
of  the  soil  is  about 
9  inches  from  the 
glass.  Strong  plants 
must  be  put  in  a 
little  more  than 
1  foot  apart  and  duly 
watered.  The  glass 
lights  ought  to  be 
kept  on  the  frame 
during  the  week 
following  the  plant- 
ing ;  but  afterwards 
plenty  of  air  must  be 
admitted,  both  day 
and  night,  except 
when  frosts  prevail 
or  fogs  are  trouble- 
some. Mats  must  be 
placed  on  the  glass 
to  prevent  the  plants 
being  frozen ;  cool, 
dry  weather  will 
prove  beneficial,  and 
during  very  fine 
days     the    glass 


lights  should  be  taken  off.  After  the  Violets  are 
planted  and  the  soil  made  moderately  firm 
around  their  roots,  nothing  further  need  be  done 
to  them  beyond  removing  any  faded  leaves  and 
an  occasional  loosening  of  the  surface  soil  with 
the  aid  of  a  pointed  stick.  When  water  is 
needed,  sufficient  must  be  given  to  thoroughly 
moisten  the  whole  of  the  soil.  If  this  be 
done,  probably  only  two  waterings  will  be 
required  until  after  Christmas.  The  best 
varieties  for  growing  in  frames  in  town  gardens 
are  :  Double,  Neapolitan,  Marie  Louise  and 
De  Parme ;  single.  Princess  of  Wales.  The 
leaves  of  the  last-named  variety  are  large 
and  strong  and  withstand  fogs  better  than  any 
other  variety.  If  only  one  sort  be  grown  I  would 
recommend  it. 

New  Rose  Borders.  — Roses  are  best  planted 
in  November  ;  but  it  is  not  a  wise  plan  to  defer 
the  preparation  of  the  ground  until  the  actual 
date  of  planting.  Avoid  making  the  necessary 
preparations  and  doing  the  work  of  planting  in 
a  hurry,  beeause  when  this  happens  there  is  a 
risk  of  putting  in  the  plants  in  a  very  hap- 
hazard manner.  At  the  present  time  the  town 
gardener  should  decide  upon  the  types  of  Rose 
and  the  number  of  plants  of  each  that  he  intends 
to  cultivate,  and  select  suitable  borders  for  them. 
Having  done  all  this,  he  must  forthwith 
commence  to  prepare  the  ground  by  deeply 
digging  the  soil,  or  trenching  it  to  a  depth  of  at 
least  2  feet.  The  subsoil  must  be  well  broken 
up,  but  left  below.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
surface  portion  must  be  left  in  a  lumpy  state 
until  the  time  for  planting  comes.  It  is  not 
absolutely  necessary  to  put  in  any  manure  at 
the  time  of  digging,  as  manure  can  be  put  on  in 
the  form  of  a  top-dressing,  and  feeding  with 
liquid  manure  can  be  done  in  due  course  ;  but  it 
is  advisable  to  put  in  some  well-rotted  manure 
now  if  the  latter  be  available.  Not  only  must 
whole  beds  be  treated  in  this  way,  but  the 
positions  where  single  specimens  are  to  be 
planted  for  training  over  arbours  and  arches,  on 
trellises,  poles  and  walls.  If  this  timely  work 
be  done,  the  very  best  can  be  obtained  from  the 
plants  in  the  form  of  vigorous  growth  and  fat 
flower-buds  early. 

The  Remnants  or  Summer  Bedding  Plants. 
The  old  plants  now  growing  in  the  flower  garden 
must  be  lifted  and  put  in  boxes  or  pots  if  they 
are  to  be  kept  through  the  winter  for  future 
use.  It  is  a  big  mistake  to  wait  until  the  first 
frost  has  "  just  touched  them  "  before  lifting,  as 
such  plants  rarely  prove  satisfactory  afterwards. 
The  large  leaves  must  be  trimmed  off  and  the 
plants  potted  in  a  light,  sandy  compost.  A  cool, 
well-ventilated  glass  structure  is  the  best  place 
for  them  in  winter-time,  though  they  may  be 
kept  with  success  in  a  spare  room.         Avon. 


-CUTTINGS     OF     DIFFERENT    VARIETIES     OF    THE    ARBOR- VIT.a:    IK  SERTED 
IN   SANDT  SOIL  TO  BE  COVERED   WITH  A  COLD   FRAME. 


474 


THE    GARDEN. 


(September  26,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Froit     Garden. 

VINK  BORDERS.— Where  Vine  borders 
have  got  into  a  bad  state  and  the 
crops  of  Grapes  produced  annually 
are  not  satisfactory,  the  roots  may 
now  be  lifted  and  replanted  in 
sweet  and  suitable  compost.  First 
get  the  soil  thoroughly  mixed  and  the  quantity 
sutticient  to  meet  the  requirements  in  readiness  ; 
then  dig  out  a  trench  at  the  opposite  side  of  the 
border  to  the  stems  fully  2  feet  deep  and 
gradually  remove  the  soil  from  among  the  roots 
(preserving  the  latter  as  much  as  possible)  until 
all  has  been  taken  away.  Put  the  drainage 
right,  and  over  this  place  turves  grass  side  down- 
wards and  then  commence  refilling  with  the 
mixed  compost.  Relay  all  the  long  roots  at 
different  depths.  Incisions  may  be  made  at 
intervals  along  the  long,  bare  roots,  and  all 
damaged  ends  should  be  cut  off  with  a  keen- 
edged  knife.  After  the  whole  has  been  com- 
pleted and  the  border  filled  about  6  inches 
higher  than  required  to  allow  for  sinking,  give  a 
gentle  watering  with  slightly  tepid  water  to 
settle  the  soil  among  the  roots.  Keep  the  house 
a  little  close  for  several  days  and  syringe  the 
rods  and  leaves  twice  daily  in  fine  weather,  it 
being  essential  to  keep  the  foliage  hanging  on 
the  Vines  as  long  as  possible.  Shade  a  little  in 
bright  weather  till  the  Vines  have  partly  got 
over  the  operation,  when  more  air  may  be 
admitted.  Do  not  force  the  Vines  too  hard  next 
year,  and  crop  lightly.  Eucourage  plenty  of 
new  growth.  If  the  borders  are  outside,  protect 
them  from  wet  should  much  rain  fall,  and  in 
winter  from  frost  and  snow. 

Peach  Houses. — If  young  trees  have  been 
trained  and  prepared  outside  to  take  the  place 
of  unsuitable  varieties  or  worn-out  ones,  now  is 
a  good  time  to  lift  and  replant  them  ;  good  trees 
prepared  a  few  seasons  outside,  if  carefully 
attended  to,  usually  bear  a  very  nice  crop  the 
following  season.  See  that  the  drainage  is 
perfect  and  the  soil  sweet  and  containing  suih- 
oient  lime  for  stone  fruit.  A  good  fibrous  loam, 
with  a  little  burnt  wood-ashes,  sweet,  well- 
decayed  manure,  lime  rubbish  and  a  little  bone- 
meal  rammed  rather  firm  will  suit  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  well.  Lift  the  young  trees  very  care- 
fully, and  after  the  planting  is  completed  water 
to  settle  the  soil.  Keep  the  trees  well  syringed 
daily  and  shade  a  little  in  very  bright  we.ither. 
Good  varieties  will  be  found  in  Hale's  Early, 
Dymond,  Violette  Hative,  Stirling  Cistle, 
Bellegarde,  Crimson  Galande,  Sea  Eagle  and 
Walburton  Admirable.  Nectarines:  Lord  Napier, 
Pine  Apple,  Humboldt  and  Elruge ;  but  there 
are  many  other  good  varieties  to  select  from. 

Strawberries. — Keep  those  in  pots  for  forcing 
free  from  weeds  and  runners  and  stand  in  a 
sunny  position  to  encourage  sturdy,  well- 
developed  crowns ;  a  little  manure-water  or 
Clay's  Fertilizer  supplied  to  the  roots  will  greatly 
assist  the  plants  at  this  season,  and  see  that 
they  do  not  suffer  from  over-dryneas  at  the 
roots. 

Plant  Department. 
Gallas.  — If  not  already  lifted  and  potted,  these 
must  receive  immediate  attentioa.  They  should 
have  good  masses  of  soil  adhering  to  the  roots 
and  be  put  into  suitable-sized,  well-drained  and 
clean  pots.  Water  well  and  stand  them  in  a 
shady  position  for  a  few  days.  If  the  weather 
is  very  cold,  stand  the  plants  in  frames  and  put 
on  the  lights.  Salvias,  Eupatoriums,  Solanums 
and  other  plants  which  were  planted  out  last  May 
should  be  patted  up.  H.  Markeam. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Plant  Department. 
Stove  Plants. — With  shortening  days  and 
waning  sun-heat  less  shade  will  be  necessary  in 
general,  but  more  particularly  to  flowering 
plants,  which  are  benefited  by  full  exposure  to 
the  sun's  rays,  providing  these  are  not  too 
powerful.  In  the  case  of  permanent  shading 
brushed  upon  the  glass,  this  is  easily  reduced  by 
being  gently  removed  with  a  hair  broom  when 
damp,  while  roller  blinds  may  be  let  down  for  a 
few  hours  at  midday,  as  may  be  considered 
prudent.  In  structures  where  creepers  are 
extensively  grown  upon  the  roof,  these  may  be 
freely  thinned,  but  not  at  the  same  time  as  the 
outside  shading  is  reduced,  or  mischief  may 
follow  from  too  sudden  exposure. 

Allamandas  and  Stephanotis  may  now  be 
gradually  brought  to  a  resting  state  by  reducing 
the  water  supply.  The  latter  will  be  past 
flowering,  but  the  former  may  hold  out  for  some 
time  and  make  a  good  display  and  prove  useful 
for  many  purposes. 

Poinsettiaa,  Eranthemums,  Sericographis, 
Cypripediums  and  winter  -  flowering  Begonias 
that  until  now  have  thriven  well  in  slightly 
heated  or  even  cold  frames  must  be  given  batter 
quarters  and  some  degree  of  warmth,  especially 
at  night,  or  the  foliage  will  surely  suflFer. 

Anthuriums  still  growing  freely  would  be 
benefited  by  applications  of  weak  manure-water 
to  enable  them  to  complete  their  growth. 

Palms  and  other  very  similar  fine-foliaged 
plants  should  not  be  shaded  more  than  is  really 
necessary,  but  it  is  unsafe  to  entirely  dispense 
with  the  blinds  before  the  end  of  the  month,  as 
sudden  bursts  of  bright  sunshine  may  yet  occur 
that  would  greatly  mar  the  season's  work  and 
hopes  by  discolouring  the  foliage.  In  bright 
weather  a  good  syringing  once  a  day  will  aid  in 
keeping  the  plants  clean  and  healthy,  while  air 
admitted  on  all  favourable  occasions  will  tend  to 
harden  the  foliage  that  it  may  the  better  with- 
stand the  winter  and  the  trying  conditions  under 
which,  as  decorative  subjects,  the  plants  may 
have  to  undergo. 

Habdy  Fruits. 

Gooseberries. — As  the  bushes  are  cleared  of 
fruit  and  the  protecting  appliances  removed,  it  is 
advisable,  where  time  can  be  spared,  to  partly 
prune  by  cutting  out  any  gross  or  misshapen 
branches  or  others  too  near  the  ground  that 
interfere  with  the  working  of  the  soil  in 
winter.  Owing  to  the  very  heavy  crops  these 
have  borne,  it  may  be  presumed  that  exhaustion 
prevails,  as  also  the  probability  of  a  light  crop 
next  year.  To  remedy  this  to  some  extent,  catch 
tanks  about  stables  and  cattle-houses  might  with 
much  advantage  have  their  contents,  when 
diluted  to  a  safe  degree,  applied  about  the  roots, 
or,  failing  this  source,  any  artificial  manures  on 
hand  might  be  very  similarly  employed. 

Raspherries,  Loganberries  and  Blackberries 
past  the  fruiting  stage  may  have  the  old  bearing 
wood  cut  away  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  that 
of  the  current  year  selected  and  secured  to  the 
respective  positions  assigned  to  each  species. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Gahbayes  for  spring  use  should  be  planted  as 
soon  as  possible,  choosing  a  warm,  fully  exposed 
site.  Close  planting  may  be  practised,  15  inches 
between  the  rows  and  about  half  this  distance 
from  plant  to  plant  being  ample,  as  small-growing 
varieties  are  favoured,  and  it  is  seldom  that 
these  attain  full  development  before  they  are 
made  use  of,  hence  more  room  is  always  being 
given  to  those  somewhat  later  than  others  in 
growth. 

Endive. — When  large  enough  and  quite    dry, 
the  leaves  may  be  gathered   together  and  the 
whole  plant  covered  with  an  inverted  flower-pot. 
James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoham.) 

OailouHi]/  House,  Oarlieaton,   Wigtownahire. 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Cattleva  iridescens  splendens. — This  is  a  very 
beautiful  and  unique  member  of  this  family,  the 
colour  combination  being  of  a  very  pleasing 
character.  The  sepals  are  rather  narrow  and 
lanceolate  with  acute  apices,  the  petals  being 
very  broad  and  fan-shaped.  The  colour  of  both 
may  be  described  as  a  sort  of  chamois  yellow 
with  a  slight  iridescence  of  purple  showing 
through  the  whole  ;  those  who  know  the  colour 
of  the  pale  flowers  of  Wallflower  Eastern  Queen 
will  get  a  good  idea  of  the  colour  of  the  sepals 
and  petals  of  this  Orchid.  The  labellum  is 
exceedingly  beautiful,  the  lower  portion  being 
the  richest  possible  yellow,  followed  by  a  narrow 
band  of  paler  yellow,  then  a  broad  band  of  purple 
and,  finally,  a  narrow  edging  of  cream  colour.  A 
very  handsome  flower.  Shown  by  Messrs. 
.Stanley  and  Co.,  Sou thgate,  London,  N.  Award 
of  merit. 

Dahlia  Bed  Admiral. — A  very  charming  addi- 
tion to  the  Cactus-flowered  set,  the  scarlet- 
coloured  florets  with  white  tips  rendering  the 
variety  conspicuous. 

Dahlia  Jupiter. — A  striped  variety  of  good 
form,  the  scarlet  and  yellow  being  fantastically 
displayed. 

Dahlia  H.  H.  Thomas  — A  rich  reddish  scarlet 
with  well-incurving  florets. 

Dahlia  Indomitable. — This  oxoellent  variety  is 
coloured  a  warm  cerise  pink  shade,  which  should 
prove  excellent  for  artificial  light. 

Dahlia  lolanthe. — A  pleasing  terra-cotta  red 
which  is  quite  distinct.  This  set  of  five  excellent 
varieties  of  Cactus  Dahlias  came  from  Messrs. 
Stredwick  and  Son,  St.  Leonards,  and  each 
received  an  award  of  merit. 

Dahlia  Little  Beeswing  (Pompon). — The  colour 
is  orange  red  and  the  form  quite  one  of  the  most 
perfect  we  have  seen.  From  Messrs.  Keynes, 
Williams  and  Co.,  Salisbury.     Award  of  merit. 

Dahlia  Edward  Mawley  (Show). — A  very 
handsome  self-coloured  variety  of  crimson-red 
tone.  Exhibited  by  Mr.  Charles  Turner,  Slough. 
Award  of  merit. 

Dahlia  Prima  Donna.  — A  very  handsome  pure 
white  Cactus  variety  of  large  size.  In  every 
way  a  good  flower.  From  Mr.  H.  Shoesmith, 
Woking.     Award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  Leslie.  — An  early  -  flowering 
variety  of  dwarf  habit  with  rich  golden  yellow 
flowers  produced  in  profusion.  A  good  bedder 
and  excellent  for  cutting.  From  Messrs. 
William  Wells  and  Co.,  Merstham.  Award  of 
merit. 

Polentilla  atrosanguinea  Gibson's  Scarlet. — 
This  brilliant-flowered  variety  belongs  to  a  sec- 
tion remarkable  for  free  and  continuous  flower- 
ing, the  colour  alone  rendering  it  welcome  and 
conspicuous  at  any  time  of  the  year.  The 
blossoms  are  single. 

Helenium  River slea  Beauty. — This  variety  is 
stated  to  have  been  raised  from  H.  autumnale 
variety  and  H.  grandicephalum  striatum.  The 
florets  are  yellow,  the  disc  of  a  brownish  crim- 
son. These  two  were  exhibited  by  Mr.  M 
Prichard,  Christchurch,  Hants,  and  each  received 
an  award  of  merit. 

Rhv.s  sinica. — A  very  handsome  and  well- 
coloured  species,  which  should  prove  most 
effective  in  groups  or  as  isolated  examples.  Shown 
by  Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  Cheshunt.  Award  of 
merit. 


NEW    FRUIT. 

Strawberry  Laxtons  Perpetual. — This  is  the 
result  of  a  cross  between  Monarch,  a  large  and 
robust  summer  Strawberry,  and  St.  Joseph,  the 
well-known  autumn  variety.  The  fruits  are 
produced  in  large  trusses  similar  to  those  of 
Monarch,  and  the  individual  fruits  resemble,  both 
in  colour  and  shape,  the  summer  parent.  The 
colour  is  a  good  rich  scarlet-erimson  and  the 
flavour  decidedly  good.  We  regard  this  variety 
as  a  decidedly  valuable  and  unique  addition  to 


September  25,  1909. J 


THE     GARDEN. 


475 


the  autumn-fruiting  Strawberries,  of  which  there 
are  all  too  few.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Laxton 
Brothers,  Bedford.     Award  of  merit. 

All    the    foregoing   were    shown    before    the 
R.H.S.,  when  the  awards  were  made. 


DEATH    OF    MR.    PETER 
BARR. 

FOUNDBS  OF  THE  FiRM  OF  MESSRS.  BarR  &  SoNS. 


E  record  with  deep  regret  the 
death  of  Mr.  Peter  Barr,  who 
was  one  of  the  greatest  horti- 
culturists  of 


mentioned  on 
page  466,  Mr.  Barr  was  in  the 
Hortieultural  Hall  on  the  pre- 
vious Tuesday  in  the  best  of 
spirits  and  enjoying  the  con- 
versation of  his  many  friends. 
His  cheery  presence  was  always 
welcome,  and  he  will  be  sadly 
missed  among  those  who,  since 
his  retirement  several  years 
ago,  have  become  batter 
acquainted  with  his  great  gifts. 
Always  ready  to  give  of  his  ex- 
ceptional knowledge  of  hardy 
plants,  preserving  to  the  last 
his  sparkling  optimism,  and 
with  an  ever-deepening  love  of 
flowers  as  the  years  sped  by, 
no  man  of  his  generation  will 
be  more  missed.  His  end,  we 
feel,  was  the  one  he  would 
have  chosen.  On  the  previous 
evening  he  was  dining  in 
London  with  his  family,  having 
arrived  for  a  stay  of  three 
weeks.  He  was  in  his  usual 
high  spirits  before  retiring  to 
rest  at  the  house  of  his  son 
George,  but  shortly  afterwards 
passed  away  from  heart  failure, 
a  peaceful  ending  to  a  busy 
and  useful  life.  Mr.  Barr's 
father's  silk-weaving  factory 
at  Govan  was  one  of  the  most 
famous  in  the  country,  but  the 
son  had  no  love  for  the  busi- 
ness. His  boyhood's  heart 
went  out  to  the  flowers  about 
him,  and  the  Tulip  beds  in 
his  father's  garden  were  a 
source  of  delight  in  those  far- 
oflf  years.  The  Christmas 
volume  of  The  Garden  for 
1893  was  dedicated  to  Mr. 
Peter  Barr,  and  in  an  account 
of  his  life  it  is  mentioned 
that  his  birthplace  was  Govan, 
then  a  prosperous  weaving 
village  on  the  Clyde.  At  an 
early  age  he  was  employed  in 
the  seed  shop  of  Mr.  James 
Thynne  of  Glasgow,  eventually 
taking  full  charge  of  the  seed 
department  when  but  twenty 
years  of  age.  His  next  appointment  was  with 
Messrs.  Daly,  Drysdale  and  Co.,  seed  mer- 
chants, of  Newry,  County  Down,  Ireland, 
where  he  passed  through  the  terrible  famine 
years  of  1846-47,  caused  by  the  general  failure 
of  the  Potato  crop.  From  Newry  he  went  to 
Messrs.  Richard  Smith's  nursery  at  Worcester, 
then  only  sixteen  acres  in  extent,  and  a 
year  or  two  afterwards  he  was  appointed 
manager  to  Messrs.  Butler  and  McCuUoch  of 
Covent  Garden.  After  some  years  of  experience 
in  the  London  seed  trade,  Mr.  Barr  started  as  a 
seedsman  in  the  autumn  of  1861  under  the  style 
and  title  of  "Barr  and  Sugden."  During  many 
years  Mr.  Barr  devoted  much  attention  to  garden 
plants  as   well   as    seeds,    beginning  with    the 


Daffodils,  and  studying  also  other  groups,  such  as 
the  Seillas,  Lilies,  Hellebores,  Pieonies  and 
Funkias. 

Mr.  Peter  Barr  was  best  known  for  his  labours 
in  collecting  and  popularising  the  Narcissi  and  the 
Daffodils.  These  once  much-appreciated  spring 
flowers,  like  others,  however,  had  been  thrown 
aside  or  neglected  during  the  artificial  epoch  of 
flower  gardening  known  as  "  bedding  out,"  and 
it  is  to  Mr.  Barr  that  we  are  in  the  main  in- 
debted for  again  collecting  and  exhibiting  them 
in  London  and  elsewhere,  and  so  obtaining  for 
them  that  attention  and  culture  which  they 
receive  to-day.  An  impetus  was  given  to  his 
labours  in  this  direction  by  a  correspondence 


Sheffield  had  a  stock  of  these  bulbs,  and  he  went 
to  Sheffield  to  see  them,  and  found  that  they  had 
been  raised  as  seedlings  by  Mr.  Milner's  brother- 
in-law,  Mr.  W.  Backhouse  of  St.  John's, 
Wolsingham,  Durham,  who  had  sent  consign- 
ments of  new  seedlings  to  Mr.  Milner  from  time 
to  time.  Mr.  Milner's  stock  was  divided 
between  Mr.  Barr  and  his  friend,  the  Rev.  John 
Nelson,  and  so  the  Backhouse  seedlings  came 
into  far  more  prominent  notice  than  they  had 
before  attained.  Not  only  did  Mr.  Barr  collect 
all  the  old  species  and  varieties  of  Daffodils  from 
all  sources,  but  he  also,  at  much  trouble  and  no 
little  cost,  selected  and  named  the  seedlings 
raised  by  the  amateurs  above  named.  He  made 
two  or  three  special  journeys 
to  Spain,  Portugal  and  the 
Maritime  Alps  in  quest  of 
wild  Narcissi. 

For  many  years  the  firm  of 
Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  has  been 
controlled  by  the  three  sons, 
Rudolph,  William  and  George, 
and  all  who  are  acquainted 
with  these  earnest  and  success- 
ful horticulturists  will  condole 
with  them  in  the  loss  of  their 
esteemed  father.  But  the 
mantle  of  Peter  Barr  has  fallen 
on  worthy  shoulders ;  the  three 
members  of  the  firm  are 
devoted  to  their  business  and 
have  a  love  of  flowers  in  their 
hearts.  Since  his  retirement 
Mr.  Barr  had  travelled  widely, 
and  lived  latterly  with  his 
sister  at  Kirn  in  Scotland, 
gathering  together  collections 
of  Narcissi,  Pansies  and  other 
flowers.  Our  readers  will  miss 
his  interesting  and  instructive 
notes.  He  was  a  great  friend  to 
The  Garden,  and  with  his  in- 
creasing years  gained  the  high 
appreciation  of  a  host  of  gar- 
deners of  all  degrees.  Not  to 
have  known  Mr.  Peter  Barr 
was  to  have  missed  a  pic- 
turesque figure  in  horticultural 
circles.  The  funeral  took  place 
at  Islington  Cemetery,  East 
Finchley,  last  Tuesday. 


THE  LATE   MR.    PETER  BARB,    V.M.H. 

with  the  late  Mr.  Leeds  of  Longford  Bridge, 
near  Manchester,  who  had  raised  hybrids  and 
seedlings  of  these  flowers,  which,  as  shown  at 
South  Kensington,  had  been  much  admired, 
although  at  that  time  there  was  little  or  no  sale 
for  them.  This  correspondence  continued  until 
near  the  close  of  Mr.  Leeds'  life,  when  it  was 
rumoured  that  "  if  his  Narcissi  were  not  sold 
before  his  death,  he  had  directed  in  his  will  that 
all  should  be  destroyed  !  "  This  was  so  alarming 
that  Mr.  Barr  consulted  the  Rev.  John  Nelson 
and  other  friends,  and  the  result  was  a  syndicate 
which  purchased  Mr.  Leeds'  stock.  While 
cleaning  and  selecting  these  varieties  at  his  old 
bulb  grounds  at  Garrett  Lane,  Lower  Tooting, 
Mr.  Barr  accidentally  heard  that  Mr.  Milner  of 


"WILLIAM    FOWLER. 

Wb  have  this  week  to  record 
the  death,  on  September  12, 
of  Mr.  William  Fowler,  a 
veteran  gardener,  who  died 
after  a  brief  illness  at  his  home, 
Boswall  Cottage,  St.  Boswell's, 
N.  B.  Mr.  Fowler,  who  retired 
from  active  work  about  four 
years  ago,  was  eighty -one  years 
of  age,  and  had  a  long  and 
successful  career  as  a  gardener. 
He  was  born  at  Eyemouth, 
but  served  his  apprenticeship 
at  Paxton  House,  Berwick- 
shire. Thence  he  went  to 
TuUieallan  Castle,  Perthshire, 
afterwards  going  to  an  appointment  in  Yorkshire. 
He  then  proceeded  to  the  United  States,  spending 
about  nine  years  in  Philadelphia.  Returning  to 
his  native  country  in  1861,  he  became  head-gar- 
dener to  Lord  Polwarth  at  Mertoun  House, 
remaining  there  for  forty-four  years,  until  his 
retirement  four  years  ago. 


"  CountPy  Life "  for  September  25  con- 
tains, among  other  articles  :  ' '  Country  Home  : 
Stoke  Edith"  (illustrated);  "Tale  of  Country 
Life :  The  Rat-catcher,"  by  Adam  Lorimer 
"Notes  on  the  Art  of  Treillage— II. "  (illus- 
trated), by  H.  Inigo  Triggs;  "A  Canadian  Back- 
water," by  H.  Frank  Wallace;  "Bringing  up 
a  Young  Cuckoo  "  (illustrated),  by  R.  B.  Lodge. 


476 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[September  25,  1909. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAc  Editor  intends 
to  nmkc  The  Gari>en  helpful  to  ail  renders  ivho  desire 
assistaime,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  maif 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
^' Answers  to  Correspondents'^  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisehj  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  OP  THE 
Garden,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  biiM^iess  should  be  sent  t6  the  Publisher. 
The  namf  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  m  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Small  bulbs  of  Daffodils  {H.  fi.).- 
You  ask  whether  small  bulbs  of  these  planted  in 
reserve  ground  ever  attain  to  flowering  size  in 
this  country.  Yes,  millions  do,  while  many 
thousands  of  seedlings  have  been  raised  and 
flowered  also.  If  the  oflfsets  are  quite  healthy 
at  the  start,  the  only  other  thing  needful  is  good 
sandy  soil,  with  a  fairly  free  drainage.  If  you 
uannot  achieve  this,  bulbs,  soil,  or  both,  must  be 
at  fault. 

"Scotch"  Ranunculus  and  Crown 

ImpePialS  {S.  B.).—We  know  nothing  of 
Scotch  Ranunculuses.  There  are  two  types  of 
the  Ranunculus,  Turban  and  Persian,  and 
possibly  what  is  intended  is  one  ef  these  Scotch 
giown.  The  Crown  Imperial  is  best  burisd  to  a 
depth  of  6  inches  or  even  more,  because  of  the 
greater  strength  afforded  the  plant  in  caie  of 
wind,  and  experience  also  has  proved  that 
greater  vigour  is  secured  by  the  deeper  planting 
of  the  bulbs.  Moreover,  as  a  permanent  subject 
in  the  border  it  is  safe  from  ordinary 
interference. 

Phloxes  diseased  {Amateur).— U  the 
whole  of  your  plants  are  in  the  condition  of  the 
one  sent,  we  can  only  suggest  that  you  dig  them 
up  and  burn  them  without  delay,  and,  having 
treated  the  ground  to  a  good  dressing  of  soot  and 
lime  worked  deeply  into  the  soil,  plant  young 
and  vigorous  plants.  If  the  position  permits  of 
the  use  of  gas-lime,  this  will  probably  be  the 
best  thing  ;  but  in  using  this  the  ground  had 
better  remain  idle  for  a  few  weeks.  It  is  the 
soil  at  fault.  We  do  not  advise  your  planting 
again  on  the  same  spot,  but  that  a  new  site 
should  be  seleoted.  In  replanting  you  had 
better  secure  plants  from  a  distance. 

Crocuses  and  Daffodils  to  flower 
early  on  a  bank  (/.  6.  M.).—lt  is  rather 
difficult  to  get  the  three  to  bloom  together  and 
to  have  the  leaves  ready  for  removal  very  early. 
The  best  Crocus  for  your  purpose  is  Golden 
Yellow,  and  to  associate  with  this  you  will  find 
Margot,  which  is  a  pretty  porcelain  blue,  the 
best,  as  it  flowers  before  the  others.  Some 
would  use  C.  Imperati,  one  of  the  species,  asso- 
ciated with  C.  sulphureus,  both  of  these  flower- 
ing before  aureus  and  Margot.  The  former  is 
deep  lilac  and  sulphureus  is  pale  yellow.  C. 
aureus  and  C.  Imperati  would  be  better  ;  but 
you  cannot  well  have  Narcissi  along  with  these, 
unless  you  use  C.  minimus,  which  is  too  ex- 
pensive for  such  large  planting.  You  might 
employ  the  dwarf  Narcissus  nanus.  W.  P. 
Milner,  pale  yellow  and  dwarf,  is  a  good  Nar- 
cissus, but  Henry  Irving  is  finer  and  almost  as 
early  as  nanus  and  W.  P.  Milner.  N.  princeps, 
sulphur  and  yellow,  is  also  very  early. 

Lilies  diseased  iMiss  L.  B.).— The  Lilies  are 
attacked  by  the  Lily  disease,  due  to  Botrytis  cinerea,  for 
which  no  real  cure  is  known.  The  diseased  stems  should 
be  removed  as  soon  as  possible  and  destroyed  by  fire,  and 
the  old  soil  should  be  removed  and  replaced  by  good  loam, 
which  would  probably  be  better  if  it  had  been  stacked  with 
powdered  lime  and  had  some  flowers  of  sulphur  dusted 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Flowers    of    Clematis    Viticella 

turnini^  green  (Mrs.  Hallan). — The  flowers 
of  Clematis  Viticella,  especially  the  light- 
coloured  forms,  frequently  act  in  the  way  that 
yours  have  done.  The  majority  of  Clematises 
have  no  petals,  the  calyx  being  coloured  and 
petal-like.  The  fact  of  the  flowers  turning  green 
18  simply  a  return  of  the  calyx  to  the  normal  green 
colour.  The  curious  thing  is  that  a  plant  may  pro- 
duce green  or  partly  green  flowers  one  year  and 
coloured  ones  the  next,  or  one  or  the  other  con- 
dition may  continue  for  several  years  in  succes- 
sion. You  cannot  do  anything  to  induce  the 
flowers  to  regain  their  ordinary  colour  or  to  stop 
the  plant  from  producing  green  flowers  another 
year.  Give  as  much  light  as  possible  about 
the  branches  and  remove  the  plants  that  are 
crowding  it. 

Shrubs  tor  a  sunless  wall  (Aljred 

Veal). — The  three  best  evergreens  for  the  pur- 
pose you  name  are  Ivy,  Cratiegus  Pyracantha 
and  Camellia  japonica.  The  following  deciduous 
shrubs  may  also  be  used  :  Hydrangea  altissima, 
Ampelopsis  Veitohii,  Jasminum  nudiflorum  and 
Clematis  Jackmani.  Several  plants  of  C. 
Jackmani  varieties  may  be  used  to  give  colour 
during  late  summer  and  autumn.  Any  kinds  of 
hardy  Ferns  will  do  to  plant  at  the  foot  of  the 
wall,  particularly  the  stronger-growing  ones, 
such  as  the  Male  Fern,  Shield  Fern,  Royal  Fern, 
Hart's-tongue,  &c.  Bulbs  such  as  Crocuses, 
Snowdrops,  Narcissi,  Tulips  and  Hyacinths  will 
thrive  in  your  beds,  as  also  will  ordinary  summer 
bedding  plants,  such  as  Geraniums,  Fuchsias, 
Calceolarias  and  Begonias.  Herbaceous  plants 
will  also  grow  in  the  position. 

Lilme  branches  damaged  (Mrs.  von  Hart- 
man  ne).— The  specimen  of  Lime  branch  you  send  appears 
to  have  had  the  leaves  burnt  by  the  sun.  Fungoid  diseases 
sometimes  affect  leaves  in  a  similar  manner,  but  no  trace 
of  fungus  can  be  found  on  the  specimen  sent.  It  is  im- 
possible to  account  for  the  condition,  but  trees  are 
sometimes  affected  in  that  way  while  others  escape. 


that  it  is  a  plant  which  does  not  like  direct  sunshine.  The 
Arum  Lily  referred  to  by  you  is  a  native  of  Cape  Colony, 
a  very  much  cooler  district  than  that  in  which  the 
Sensitive  Plant  grows  wild. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Annuals  to  flower  from  Christ- 
mas to  March  (A.  Johmson). — There  are 
not  many  annuals  that  can  be  sown  now  to 
flower  in  the  greenhouse  at  the  time  stated,  but 
the  following  would,  we  think,  meet  your 
requirements :  Bartonia  aurea,  Clarkias,  Godetias, 
annual  Chrysanthemums,  Salpiglossis,  Schizan- 
thus  and  Sweet  Peas.  The  Polyanthus,  double 
Arabis  and  Wallflowers  might  be  boxed  up, 
and  if  allowed  a  free  circulation  of  air  should 
develop  their  flowers  under  glass.  For  such 
things  a  minimum  temperature  of  40°  to  45° 
should  be  allowed,  rising,  of  course,  during  the 
day.  A  free  circulation  of  air  must  be  ensured 
whenever  possible. 

Heating  a  speenhouse  (Cfs()/aii).— Such  a  small 
greenhouse  as  that  referred  to  by  you  might  be  heated  by 
an  oil-stove  or  lamp,  of  which  there  are  many  good  patterns 
on  the  market.  Of  course,  it  is  very  essential  that  the  stove 
or  lamp  should  be  kept  perfectly  clean  and  be  regularly 
trimmed,  while  it  is  also  of  equal  importance  to  use  only 
the  best  oil,  as  that  of  an  inferior  quality  gives  off  smoke 
and  smell. 

Treatment  of  Beironlas  (W.  G.  Watson).— You 
can  do  nothing  with  your  Kegonias  as  late  in  the  season  as 
this,  but  in  the  spring,  as  soon  as  the  breaks  are  visible 
and  you  can  detect  those  with  single  shoots,  these  may  be 
removed  in  order  to  encourage  the  formation  of  others. 
At  the  same  time,  we  should  not  advise  you  to  serve  all  in 
this  way,  as  naturally  the  flowering  season  will  be  retarded 
by  this  treatment. 

Qpchld  leaves  blotched  (C.  C.  S.).— The 
blotches  on  the  enclosed  leaves  of  Anguloa  are  caused  by 
a  low  temperature  and  an  excess  of  moisture.  Removal  to 
a  mere  buoyant  atmosphere,  taking  care  that  the  plants 
are  well  shaded,  will  do  more  than  any  application  to 
check  the  trouble.  Anguloa  Clowesii,  though  a  native 
of  Colombia,  needs  a  little  more  heat  than  the  cool-house 
Odontoglossums  from  the  same  country,  these  last  growing 
in  higher  latitudes. 

Tpeatment  of  the  Sensitive  Plant  (E.  M.  if.). 
The  Sensitive  Plant  is  a  native  of  the  tropics,  and  for  its 
successful  culture  requires  a  warm  structure.  The 
temperature  of  a  stove,  or  at  least  that  of  an  intermediate 
house,  is  necessary  to  its  well-doing.  We  should  advise 
you  to  keep  yours  altogether  indoors,  and  bear  in  mind 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Grapes  not  colouring:  properly 
in  a  heated  vinery  (A  Subscriber).— The 
causes  of  Grapes  not  colouring  properly  are 
numerous,  even  when  the  vinery  is  heated  as  in 
your  case.  It  is,  therefore,  difficult  for  us  to  say 
which  of  these  courses  may  be  answerable  in  your 
case  without  some  more  definite  information  as 
to  the  condition  under  whieh  your  Vines  are 
growing.  Much  depends  on  the  variety.  Some 
take  on  colour  much  earlier  than  others.  It 
may  be  that  the  soil  of  your  border  is  partially 
exhausted  of  manure,  especially  bone  and  lime, 
and  that  in  consequence  the  roots  are  unable  to 
properly  support  and  finish  the  crop.  The  most 
frequent  cause  of  all,  however,  is  overcropping. 
If  you  will  let  us  know  the  variety  of  your 
Grapes,  the  length  of  your  Vine  rods,  and  the 
number  and  approximate  weight  of  bunehes 
carried  by  each  rod,  and  also  whether  the  Vines 
are  in  robust  health  or  not,  we  shall  be  in  a 
better  position  to  help  you. 

Black    Alicante    Gpape    dlscolouped 

(W.  A.  B.).—YouT  Grapes  are  affected  by  "scald."  It 
bears  this  name  because  the  injured  berries  appear 
as  if  scalded  or  parboiled.  Some  varieties  are  more 
subject  to  attack  from  it  than  others,  and  among  them 
is  ]$lack  Alicante.  It  always  makes  its  appearance 
about  the  time  the  Grapes  have  nearly  finished  stoning 
and  are  about  to  begin  to  colour.  It  is  caused  by  hot 
gleams  of  sunshine  striking  on  the  foliage  and  berries 
early  in  the  morning  before  there  is  sufficient  air  on  the 
vinery  and  while  they  are  damp  from  condensed  moisture 
of  the  night.  The  remedy  is  to  apply  more  air  day  and 
night  to  the  Vines  while  they  are  at  this  stage  of  their 
growth,  and  should  there  be  a  prolonged  spell  of  cold,  wet 
weather  at  this  time,  the  hot-water  pipes  should  have  a 
little  warmth  in  them  at  night.  This  makes  a  wonderful 
difference  to  the  buoyancy  and  free  circulation  of  air  in 
the  vinery.  It  also  prevents  the  condensation  of  moisture 
on  the  foliage  and  berries. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Soil  fop  inspection  (</.  W.  I'oitjwr).— The  soil  is 
very  deficient  in  lime,  which  should  be  added  in  the  form 
of  chalk  at  the  rate  of  half  a  bushel  to  the  square  rod  in 
the  autumn  or  spring. 

Hellebope  poivdep  fop  aphis  (E.  F.).— 
Hellebore  powder  will  have  no  effect  upon  green  fly.  Soft 
soap  and  quassia  or  one  of  the  nicotine  washes  should  be 
sprayed  on  the  bushes  as  a  remedy  against  these. 

Lawn  Infested  Vfith  iveeds  (Newcastle).— 
Your  lawn  is  infested  with  the  common  self-heal 
(Prunella  vulgaris).  Pull  as  much  of  it  out  as  you  can  and 
dress  the  lawn  with  Lawn  Sand,  which  may  be  obtained 
with  directions  for  use  from  most  of  the  principal  seedmen 
in  the  country.  Lawn  Sand  certainly  does  good.  It  some- 
times turns  the  grass  brown  for  a  week  or  two,  but  it 
quickly  recovers.  A  good  dressing  of  soil  would  do  the 
grass  good  if  applied  in  the  autumn. 

How  to  bpeak  up  meadowr  land  (Yorkshire 
Lad). — You  may  first  remove  the  turf,  but  it  ought  to  be 
broken  up  afterwards  and  buried  under  the  top  spit  ef 
soil.  Yes,  trench  the  ground,  add  manure,  and  leave 
the  surface  soil  in  a  lumpy  state  during  the  winter 
months.  Autumn  is  the  best  time  to  do  the  trenching. 
You  may  scatter  dust-dry  lime  on  the  grass,  before  any 
digging  is  done,  at  the  rate  of  one  peck  per  square  rod  of 
ground.  As  you  can  only  work  on  the  land  three  days  in 
each  week,  half  an  acre  would  be  quite  as  much  as  you 
could  attend  to  properly  for  the  cultivation  of  vegetables. 

Book  on  gapdenins  In  Tokio  (Jf.).— As  far  as 
we  are  aware,  there  is  no  book  published  in  English  which 
deals  with  gardening  in  Japan  exactly  in  the  way  you  seem 
to  suggest.  There  is  an  excellent  book,  with  some  very 
helpful  pictures,  by  Miss  Du  Cane,  entitled  "  The 
Flowers  and  Gardens  of  Japan."  It  is  published  by 
A.  and  C.  Black,  price  20s.  There  is  also  a  larger  work, 
"Landscape  Gardening  in  Japan,"  by  Conder;  but  we 
think  that  possibly  the  first  of  these  will  be  more  what 
you  want,  and  if  it  is  not  of  very  great  practical  utility  for 
your  particular  needs,  it  may  be  very  suggestive,  inasmuch 
as  it  may  lead  you  t»  consider  whether  you  would  go  in  for 
a  garden  such  as  we  have  In  England  or  whether  you 
would  attempt  to  form  one  in  the  conventional  style  of 
the  Japanese  themselves. 

Names  of  fpult.— G.  ifea.— Striped  Apple,  Beauty 
of     Bath;     green    Apple,    Bramley's    Seedling;     Pear, 

Old    Windsor. J.   H.   Powlesland.—Te&r    Marguerite 

Marillat. J.  Avios.—Tj&rge  Apple,  Cat's  Head  ;  small, 

Brandy  Apple. H.  i.— The  Pear  with  dull  red  flesh  is 

Durondeau  ;   3,  Williams's  Bon  Chretien  ;   the  other  Pear 
was  rotten.    Apples :  1,  Baxter's  Seedling ;  2,  Schoolmaster  ; 

3,  Frogmore    Prolific  ;   4,  Sugarloaf. S.  S.— Pear  Olou 

MoFQeau. 


September  25,  1909.  | 


THE     GAEDEN. 


IX. 


Names  of  fpuit.— ^l.  Pa)i€ll.—Smd.ll,  Beauty  of 
Bath ;    medium,   Worcester  Pearmain ;  large,   Beauty  of 

Kent. W.  J.   TV.— Yellow  Magnum   Bonum. Jb.  H. 

Bull.— King    of    the    Pippins. W.    E.    Burrow.— Peeir 

Jargonelle. F.   W,  Hull. — Apple  Devonshire  Quarren- 

den  ;  Bean  not  recognised. W.  F.  L.— The  fruits  were 

very  badly  damaged,  but  appeared  to  be  Plum  Magnum 

Bunum. A.  S.  H. — re,  Duchess's  Favourite  (Duchess  of 

Gloucester) ;  b.  Lord  Raglan ;  c,  Tower  of  Glamis ;  d.  Brad- 
dick's   Nonpariel ;    e.  Sugar  loaf  ;  /,  Oalin. W.   tf.— 1, 

Souvenir  du  Congres  ;  2,  Duchess's  Favourite  (Duchess  of 

Gloucester) ;    3,    Mank's    Codlin. A.    B.—l,  Yorkshire 

Beauty ;  2,  Duchess  of  Oldenburg ;  3,  Hall  Door ;  4,  Wyken 
Pippin;  5,  a  local  variety  ;  7,  Reinette  du  Canada;  8,  Cat's 
Head  ;  9,  Lord  Nelson  ;  10,  King  of  the  Pippins  ;  11,  Sou- 
venir du  Congrfes ;  12,  Beurr6  Baltet  P6re  ;  13,  Keswick 
Codlin.  Some  of  the  numbers  on  the  Apples  had  become 
detached  and  may  have  caused  some  confusion  in  above. 

Names  of  plants.— IT.  G.  it,  Glos.—l,  Cistus 
cyprius  ;  2,  Hibiscus  coeleste  ;  3,  Potentilla  fruticosa ;  4, 
Prunus  orientalis ;  5,  Solidago  canadensis  ;  6,  Adiantum 
cuneatum  gracillimum  ;  7,  A.  cuneatum ;  8,  A.  formosum. 

Ern.estiL—'l,    Hedychium  Gardneria;     2,  Eriobotrya 

japonica ;  3,  Cassia  corymbosa  ;  4,  Corynocarpus  laevigata. 

F.  JT.— (Enothera  species,  Solanum  species  and  possibly 

Hydrangea  peliolaris  (impossible  to  identify  such  scraps). 

E,  R.  P.—l,  Moras  alba ;  2,  Pyrus  floribunda  ;  3,  Acer 

Negundo ;  4,  5  and  6,  garden  forms  of  Phlox  paniculata ;  7, 
Anemone  japonica.—./.  Oray.—l,  Asplenium  Filix-foemina 
criatatum ;  2,  A.  F.-f.  Frizellaa ;  3,  Aspidium  aculeatum. 
Phlox  badly  diseased— ^iig  up  and  burn  all  plants  affected. 

W.  R.  F. — 1,  Ballota  Pseudo-Dictamuua ;  2,  Hypericum 

pyramidatum ;  3,  Potentilla  nepalensis;  4,  Jasminum 
humile  ;  6,  Dianthus  caryophyllus  ;  6,  Veronica  Traversii ; 

7,  Saponaria  officinalis  flore-pleno  ;  8,  Genista  tinctoria  ;  9, 
Salvia  Grahamii ;  10,  Calluna  vulgaris  variety ;  11,  Daboecia 

polKolia  ;  12,  Erica  vagans. ^.  iJesort. —Muehlenbeckia 

platyclada. S.  L. — Berberis  vulgaris  and  Rose   Paul 

Led6. Aiixioits  to  Knoiv.—LjBim&chia.  thyrsiflora. 

Mr.  Fowler. — Cypripedium  cardinale. Mr.  Hole. — Jas- 
minum grandiflorum. 3f.  ^.—1,  Tecoma  grandiflora ;  2, 

Tradescantia  virginiana  ;  3,  Cuphea  ignea. Organist.— 

Olearia  Haasti  and  Cestrum  aurantiacum, 3[iss  G.  H. 

Fotheringham.  —  a,  Helenium  autumnale  cupreum  ;  b, 
Achillea  Ptarmica  flore-pleno  ;  c,  Tradescantia  virginiana. 

R.  P.—l,  Hypericum  calycinum ;  2,  Eryngium  amethys- 

tinum  ;  3,  Campanula  rapunculoides ;  4,  Galega  officinalis ; 
5,  Funkia  ovata  marginata  ;  6,  Solidago  canadensis  ;  7, 
Tradescantia  virginiana  alba ;  8,  Malva  Alcea  ;  9,  Funkia 
lancifolia ;  10,  Tradescantia  virginiana;  11,  Galega  officinalis 

alba ;  12,  send  in  flower ;  13,  Sedum  Sieboldii. Newcastle. 

— Crepis  rubra;  Acer  eampeatre  (leaves);  1,  please  send 
better  specimen ;  2,  Cupressus  pisifera  squarrosa ;  3, 
Buxus  sempervirens  var.  myosotifolia ;  4,  Cryptomeria 
japonica  elegans ;  5,  Cupressus  pisifera  squarrosa  sul- 
phurea.    The  variety  of  Everlasting  Pea  is  a  well-known 

one. M.  F.  G. — 1  and  4,  Asplenium  Fillx-foemina ;   2, 

Nephrodium  Filix  mas  ;  3,  Aspidium  angulare ;  5,  Poly- 
podium    vulgare. W.    E.    #.— Senecio    Clivorum. — — 

Miss   D.,   WithypooL—^edMia    Ewersii. J.     C.    K.—l, 

Hypericum  androstemum ;   2,  Helenium    autumnale  ;    3, 

Epilobium  angustifolium  album. J.  H.  C. — 1,  Helian- 

tbus  rigidus  Miss  Mellish  ;  2,  Rudbeckia  speciosa ;  Aster 
acris  var.  ;  4,  Solidago  canadensis  ;  5,  Hieracium  aurantia- 
cum ;  6.  Sedum  Telephium  ;  7,  Polygonum  amplexicaule ; 

8,  Colchicum  byzantinum  album ;  9,  C.  byzantinum. 

A.  J.  H. — Lychnis  coronaria  var.  oculata  (larger  speci- 
men) ;     Tunica    Saxif  raga. J.    Leader.  —  Dendrobium 

clavatum  ;     Catasetum     macrocarpum. Miss   Fryer. — 

Anthericum  Liliago. J.  W.  H.  Oldham. — Not  an  Orchid, 

but  Impatiens  Roylei. Mrs.  R.  Pilkington.~The  Rose 

is    Cecile    Brunner. C.    ff,    Sinclair.— ^ose   Dorothy 

Perkins. 


SOCIETIES 

THE  NAXIONAI?  KOSE  SOCIETY. 
Autumn  Exhibition. 
We  always  look  forward  with  Interest  t»  the  autumn  exhi- 
bition of  the  National  Rose  Society,  and  it  was  a  pleasure 
to  see  the  Horticultural  Hall  almost  filled  with  exhibits 
on  Thursday  in  last  week,  when  many  flowers  ef  surprising 
excellence  were  shown  in  the  groups  and  stands.  The 
display  from  Mr.  George  Prince  of  Oxford  was  one  of  the 
most  noteworthy.  Under  the  circumstances — a  cold,  wet, 
depressing  autumn — the  flowers  were  fresh  aud  in  few 
cases  unsullied.  As  was  anticipated,  the  Scotch  rosarians 
with  the  Southern  growers — Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.  of 
Colchester  and  Mr.  Charles  Turner  of  Slough— were  in 
conspicuous  places.  Many  well-known  rosarians  were  to 
be  seen  in  the  hall,  among  them  the  popular  president,  the 
Kev.  F.  Page-Roberts,  Mr.  E.  Mawley  (hon.  secretary), 
Mr.  Gr.  W.  Cook  (hon.  treasurer)  and  Mr.  H.  E.  Molyneux. 

NURSEEYMEN. 

General  Section. 
Competition  was  exceedingly  keen  in  the  class  for 
thirty-six  blooms,  distinct,  and  Messrs.  James  Cocker  and 
Sens  of  Aberdeen  are  to  be  congratulated  on  securing  the 
premier  award.  Their  blooms  were  really  a  wonderful 
lot,  and  doubtless  represented  the  first  crop.  All  were 
large,  of  good  shape  and  splendid  colour.  Richmond, 
Annie  Wood,  Captain  Hayward,  Mrs.  T.  Roosevelt  and 
Mrs.  John  Laing  were  a  few  that  called  for  special 
mention.  Second  prize  went  to  Mr.  Hugh  Dickson  of 
Belfast,  whose  blooms  were  little  inferior  to  those  in 
the  first-prize  boxes.  Lohengrin,  Ulrich  Brunner  and 
Captain  Hayward  were  three  that  called  for  special 
mention.     Third  honours    went   to   Messrs.    Adam    and 


Craigmile,  Aberdeen,  whose  box  had  the  distinction  of 
containing  two  of  the  three  medal  blooms  selected  from 
the  whole  of  the  nurser.vmen's  section,  these  being  Earl  of 
Warwick  (Hybrid  Tea)  and  Mrs.  Joiin  Laing  (Hybrid 
Perpetual) ;  the  latter  was  a  wonderful  flower. 

There  were  five  entries  in  the  class  for  thirty-six  distinct 
varieties,  not  fewer  than  three  trusses  of  each,  all  Roses 
eligible.  This  was  a  very  beautiful  class,  and  first 
prize  was  well  won  by  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co., 
Braiswick  Gardens,  Colchester,  whose  flowers  were  really  a 
wonderful  lot.  Hugh  Dickson,  Edu  Meyer,  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay,  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  Princesse  Marie  Mert- 
chersky  and  Lady  Ashtown  were  almost  perfect  in  their 
beauty.  Second  honours  fell  to  Mr.  John  Crossling, 
Penarth,  who  also  staged  very  good  blooms,  K.  A.  Victoria 
and  Frau  Karl  Druschki  being  two  of  the  best.  Third 
prize  was  won  by  Mr.  John  Mattock,  Headington,  Oxford, 
who  must  have  been  very  close  to  the  second-prize  winner. 
Tea  and  Noisette  Section. 
There  were  four  entries  for  eighteen  blooms,  distinct, 
first  prize  here  being  secured  by  Messrs.  Adam  and 
Craigmile,  Aberdeen,  with  rather  small  flowers.  Lady 
Roberts,  The  Bride  and  Catherine  Mermet  being  the  three 
best.  Mr.  George  Prince,  Longworth,  was  a  close  second, 
his  flowers  of  Muriel  Grahame  and  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  being 
excellent ;  and  third  prize  went  to  Mr.  Jottn  Pigg,  Royston, 
Herts. 

Exhibition  Roses  in  Vases. 
For  twelve  distinct  varieties,  seven  blooms  of  each,  the 
first  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  Hugh  Dickson  of  Belfast 
with  a  very  fine  collection  of  flowers.  Caroline  Testout, 
Gladys  Harkness,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Hugh  Dickson 
and  Princesse  Marie  Mertchersky  were  a  few  that  we 
selected  as  being  of  more  than  usual  merit.  Second  prize 
went  t»  Messrs.  James  Cocker  and  Sons  of  Aberdeen, 
who  also  had  beautiful  flowers,  Hugh  Dickson,  Mrs. 
David  McKee  and  Lyon  standing  out  above  the  others. 
Messrs.  Alexander  Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards,  were 
a  good  third,  the  blooms  of  Lyon  Rose  here  being  remark- 
ably well  coloured.  Harry  Kirk  and  Alex.  Hill  Gray  were 
also  shown  here  in  splendid  condition. 

For  twelve  blooms  of  any  Rose,  to  be  shown  in  a  single 
vase,  flrst  prize  went  to  Mr.  Jolin  Mattock,  Headington, 
Oxford,  for  some  beautiful  examples  of  Mrs.  John  Laing. 
Second  prize  went  to  Mr.  W.  Ferguson,  Brucefleld,  Dun- 
fermline, for  the  same  variety,  and  third  honours  went  to 
Messrs.  D.  Prior  and  Son  of  Colchester  for  fine  flowers  of 
Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

Section  for  Decorative  Roses. 
For  twenty-four  distinct  varieties,  not  less  than  three  or 
more  than  seven  trusses  of  each,  competition  was  very 
good,  flrst  prize  going  to  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co., 
Braiswick  Gardens,  Colchester,  who  had  a  splendid  lot  of 
blooms.  Irish  Glory,  La  Tosca  and  Beryl  were  three  that 
called  for  special  mention.  Second  prize  was  awarded  to 
Messrs.  Paul  and  Son,  The  Old  Nurseries,  Cheshunt,  Le 
Pregriis,  Mme.  Berkeley,  Gustavo  Regis  and  Mrs.  E.  G. 
Hill  being  very  good  in  this  group.  Mr.  John  Mattock, 
Headington,  was  placed  third. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  varieties,  Mr.  Charles 
Turner  of  Slough  was  first  out  of  four  competitors,  his 
blooms  being  very  good  throughaut.  Le  Progrfes,  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay,  Mrs.  A.  Ward  and  Betty  were  four  that 
we  noticed  as  being  of  particular  beauty  and  merit. 
Mr.  John  Crossling,  Penarth  Nurseries,  South  Wales,  was 
equal  second,  Leonie  Lamesch  and  Gustave  Regis  being 
the  two  best  in]  the  group  ;  Mr.  W.  Ferguson,  Dunferm- 
line, was  his  equal  and  also  received  second  prize,  Mme. 
Rjivary,  Richmond  and  Edu  Meyer  being  very  good  here. 
Third  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  George  Prince,  Oxford. 

Mr.  Charles  Turner  of  Slough  was  a  splendid  flrst  in  the 
class  for  twelve  distinct  varieties,  the  trusses  to  be 
arranged  lightly  on  Bamboo  stands.  His  blooms  were  a 
very  beautiful  lot  indeed,  Betty,  Papa  Gontleri  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay,  La  Tosca  and  Mme.  Jules  Grolez  being  of  extra 
merit.  Second  prize  fell  to  Mr.  John  Mattock,  who  also 
staged  splendid  flowers,  Laurette  Messimy,  La  Tosca, 
Gustave  Regis,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  and  W.  A.  Richardson 
calling  for  special  mention.  Mr.  H.  Drew  of  Longworth 
was  third. 

Dwarf  Polyantha  Roses. 
In  the  class  for  twelve  distinct  varieties,  six  trusses  of 
each,  competition  was  good,  first  prize  being  won  by 
Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Braiswick  Gardens, 
Colchester,  Leonie  Lamesch  and  Philippine  Lambert  being 
extra  good.  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Old  Rose 
Gardens,  Colchester,  were  a  close  second  ;  and  third  prize 
went  to  Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown  of  Peterborough. 

Groups  of  Roses. 

For  a  representative  group  of  Roses,  arranged  on  the 
floor  in  a  space  not  exceeding  100  square  feet,  flrst  prize 
went  to  Hobbies,  Limited,  of  Dereham  for  a  beautiful 
group  arranged  in  a  corner;  this  comprised  both 
standard  and  dwarf  plants  and  also  cut  flowers.  The 
quality  of  all  was  good  and  the  varieties  shown  included 
all  the  best  autumn-flowering  sorts.  Messrs.  George  Paul 
and  Son,  Cheshunt,  were  a  close  second  with  a  beautiful 
group,  the  cut  blooms  being  well  arranged  in  small  green 
baskets. 

The  first-prize  group  from  Mr.  G.  Prince,  Longworth,  in 
Class  11  was  of  a  most  artistic  character,  and  constituted 
quite  a  study  in  the  art  of  arranging  these  delightful 
flowers.  Starting  with  Bamboo  stands  in  the  background, 
graceful  arches  were  formed  by  the  shoots  of  the 
wichuraiana  varieties,  and  these,  with  pillars  and 
bouquets  of  the  flowers,  made  one  of  the  finest  arrange- 
ments we  have  seen.  The  flowers  staged  represented 
Teas,  Hybrid  Teas  and  Perpetuals,  and  with  such  singles 
as  Irish  Elegance,  Bardou  Job  and  others  a  charming 
group  was  arranged.  The  second  prize  in  this  class 
went  to  Messrs.  W.  and  J.  Brown,  Peterborough,  for  a 


handsomely  disposed  group  which  contained  many  of  the 
leading  varieties  of  commerce.  Richmond,  Betty,  Lyon 
Rose,  Duchess  of  Albany,  Irish  Elegance,  Pharisaer, 
Liberty  and  Frau  Karl  Druschki  were  all  admirably  dis- 
played, relief  being  afliorded  by  the  free  growth  of  many 
kinds  interspersed  among  the  flowers.  It  was,  indeed,  an 
admirable  group  in  every  way.  Third  prize,  the  King's 
Acre  Nursery  Company,  Hereford,  who  also  had  a  capital 
group  with  many  excellent  flowers. 

In  a  similar  group,  to  occupy  a  space  not  exceeding 
60  square  feet,  first  prize  was  well  won  by  Mr.  F.  W. 
Bradley,  Peterborough,  whose  group  contained  some 
remarkably  good  fiowers.  Climbing  Lady  Ashtown  shown 
here  was  very  fine  indeed,  and  Pauline  Bersey,  a  beautiful 
cream  and  apricot  Rose,  was  also  splendid.  Messrs.  R. 
Harkness  and  Co.  of  Hitchin  were  placed  second,  their 
group  also  being  excellent ;  third  prize  was  well  won  by 
Messrs.  George  Jackman  and  Son  of  Woking. 

For  a  bowl  of  China  Roses,  arranged  with  China  Rose 
foliage  only,  the  competition  was  very  good,  first  prize 
being  secured  by  Mr.  J.  Mattock  of  Headington  with 
Comtesse  du  Cayla.  Mr.  E.  J.  Hicks  of  Twyford  was  second 
with  the  same  variety,  and  third  prize  went  to  Messrs. 
B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Old  Rose  Gardens,  Colchester,  for  a 
mixed  bowl. 

Mr.  Charles  Turner,  Slough,  was  first  for  a  collection  of 
the  heps  of  nine  distinct  species  of  Roses,  those  of  R. 
pyrenaioa,  R.  rugosa,  Double  Pink  Scotch  and  R.  canina 
being  the  most  attractive.  Second  prize  went  to  Mr. 
George  Prince,  Longworth ;  and  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and 
Co.,  Braiswick  Gardens,  Colchester,  were  third. 

Amateurs. 
General  Section. 

For  eighteen  blooms,  distinct,  flrst  prize  was  won  by 
Mr.  E.  B.  Lindsell,  Bearton,  Hitchin,  whose  excellent  lot 
contained  Maman  Cochet,  S.  M.  Rodocanachi,  Horace 
Vernet,  Comte  Raimbaud  and  Her  Majesty  ;  second,  Mr. 
Conway  Jones,  Gloucester,  whose  Victor  Hugo  and  Mrs. 
Grant  were  very  fine ;  third,  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton, 
Havering-atte-Bower,  Essex,  whose  Earl  of  Warwick  and 
Mrs.  Alfred  Tate  were  very  fine. 

For  twelve  blooms,  distinct  varieties,  flrst  prize  went  to 
Mr.  W.  O.  Times,  Hitchin,  whose  best  blooms  were  Mme. 
Jules  Gravereaux,  Bessie  Brown,  Horace  Vernet,  Mrs. 
John  Laing,  White  Maman  Cochet  and  Hugh  Dickson. 
Second  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  G.  Speight,  Market 
Harborough,  who  had  Cardinal,  Earl  of  Warwick  and  Her 
Majesty  as  the  best. 

For  nine  blooms,  distinct  varieties,  first  prize  went  to 
Mr.  W.  Upten,  Claremont  Street,  Leicester,  whose  Mrs.  J. 
Laing,  Maman  Cochet,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  and  Caroline 
Testout  were  all  excellent ;  second,  Mr.  C.  F.  H.  Leslie, 
Epcombs,  Hertingfordbury,  with  capital  blooms  of 
William  Shean  and  Frau  Karl  Druschki ;  third,  Mr.  E.  B. 
Lehmann,  Crawley,  Sussex. 

For  six  blooms,  distinct,  the  Rev.  H.  S.  Arkwright, 
Binfleld  Rectory,  Berks,  was  first,  his  Earl  of  Warwick  and 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  being  of  good  quality  ;  second,. 
Mrs.  C.  M.  Barnes,  Sydenham  House,  Rochford,  Essex, 
with  Maman  Cochet  and  Dean  Hole  as  the  best;  third, 
Mr.  S.  J.  Hogg,  Leaside,  Hertingfordbury. 

For  six  blooms  in  not  less  than  four  varieties,  first  prize 
was  won  by  Mr.  J.  W.  Raiser,  Heimat,  Penarth,  whose 
Hugh  Dickson  and  Violet  Liddell  were  good  ;  second,  Mr. 
E.  W.  Morris,  Uckfield,  Sussex,  with  a  nice  set  of  Hybrid' 
Teas,  in  which  Lyon  Rose  and  Mme.  Jean  Dupuy  were 
very  good  ;  third,  Mrs.  V.  Wood,  Rosemount,  Rickmans- 
worth. 

For  twelve  distinct  varieties,  not  fewer  than  three 
trusses  of  each  in  a  space  6  feet  by  3  feet :  First,  Mr.  H.  R. 
Darlington,  Potter's  Bar,  whose  ample,  well-arranged 
vases  contained  many  good  flowers,  such  varieties  as 
Papa  Gontier,  Mme.  Lambard,  Gustave  Regis,  Corallina, 
Irish  Elegance  and  Mme.  Ravary  being  particularly  fine ; 
second,  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton,  Havering-atte-Bower, 
Essex,  whose  Rosette  de  la  Legion  d'Honneur,  Thalia 
Perpetual,  Gloire  des  Rosomanes,  Earl  of  Warwick  and 
Laurette  Messimy  were  very  fine ;  third,  Mr.  E.  B. 
Lindsell,  Bearton,  Hitchin,  who  had  good  vases  of  Mrs.  S. 
Crawford,  Marie  van  Houtte,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Fisher 
Holmes  and  Lady  Ashtown. 

Tea  and  Noisette  Section. 

For  twelve  blooms,  distinct  (open  to  all  amateurs 
irrespective  of  the  number  of  plants  they  grow) :  First, 
Mr.  Conway  Jones,  Hucclecote,  Gloucester,  who  had 
capital  blooms  of  MarSohal  Niel,  White  Maman  Cochet, 
Mme.  Hoste  and  Cleopatra;  second,  the  Rev.  T.  G. 
Henslow,  Stanton  Rectory,  Chippenham,  with  Mme.  Jules. 
Dupuy,  Souv.  de  Pierre  Notting  and  Duchesse  d'Auerstadt 
(rich  yellow) ;  third,  Mr.  E.  M.  Eversfield,  Horsham. 

For  nine  blooms,  distinct  varieties :  First,  Mr.  M. 
Whittle,  Belgrave  Avenue,  Leicester,  whose  Mme.  Constant. 
Soupert,  Mme.  Pierre  Notting,  Mme.  Cochet  and  Mme. 
Vermorel  were  very  fine ;  second,  the  Rev.  J.  A.  L. 
Fellowes,  Bunwell  Rectory,  Attleborough,  with  Maman 
Cochet  and  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  as  the  best;  third,  Mr. 
C.  F.  H.  Leslie,  Epcombs,  Hertingfordbury. 

For  six  blooms,  distinct  varieties :  First,  Mr.  William 
Upton,  Leicester,  whose  Mme.  Cochet,  White  Maman 
Cochet  and  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting  were  very  fine  ; 
second,  Mr.  W.  0.  Times,  Hitchin,  with  Lady  Roberts  and 
Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux  as  the  best ;  third.  Rev.  H.  Tower 
Holy  Trinity,  Windsor,  with  a  very  fine  bloom  of  Muriel 
Grahame  in  his  set. 

Exhibition  Roses  in  Vases. 
Six  distinct  varieties,  five  blooms  of  each :  First,  Rev. 
J.  H.  Pemberton,  Havedng-atte-Bower,  Essex,  who  had 
excellent  vases  of  Earl  of  Warwick,  Lady  Ashtown,  Mme. 
Hausman,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  and  Hugh  Dickson,  a 
strong  and  good  lot ;  second,  Mr.  E.  B.  Lindsell,  Bearton, 
Hitchin,  with  very  fine  Alfred  Colomb,  Charles  Lefebvre 


THE     GARDEN. 


(September  25,  1909. 


And  A.  K.  Williams  ;  third,  Mr.  E.  M.  Eversfleld,  Denne 
Park,  Horsham. 

Four  distinct  varieties  of  Teas  and  Noisettes  :  First, 
Rev.  T.  G.  Henslow,  Stanton  Rectory,  Chippenham, 
whose  best  were  Mme.  Jean  Dupuy  and  Souvenir  de  Pierre 
l^^otting. 

Decorative  Section. — For  Ladies  Only. 

For  a  decoration  of  cut  Roses  for  dinner-table  with  any 
cut  foliage  or  grasses :  First,  Miss  A.  F.  Harwood,  St. 
Peter's  Street,  Colchester,  who  employed  Joseph  Lowe  in 
delightful  fashion,  the  blooms  being  of  very  fine  form  and 
substance.  An  admirable  arrangement  from  every  point 
of  view.  Second,  Mrs.  G.  A.  Hammond,  Cambrian  House, 
Burgess  Hill,  whose  lovely  arrangement  of  Irish  Harmony 
secured  many  admirers  ;  third,  Mrs.  J.  W.  Smith, 
Sparrows  Heme  Hall,  Bushey  Heath,  who  employed  Irish 
Elegance  with  its  buds  in  a  most  delightful  way  ;  fourth, 
Mrs.  E.  P.  Butcher,  Upper  Brook  Street,  Ipswich. 

In  the  class  for  a  bowl  of  exhibition  Roses  arranged 
-with  Rose  foliage  only,  first  prize  was  won  by  Miss  A.  F. 
Harwood,  St.  Peter's  Street,  Colchester,  who  employed 
&lme.  Hoste  to  excellent  advantage;  second,  Miss  E.  M. 
Robinson,  Emerson  Park,  Hornchurch,  whose  Caroline 
Testout  was  well  displayed  ;  third,  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley, 
Rosebank,  Berkbamsted,  who  also  had  Caroline  Testout 
in  fine  condition. 

For  a  bowl  of  cut  Roses  lightly  arranged  with  Rose 
ioliage  only,  first  honours  went  to  Miss  E.  M.  Robinson, 
Emerson  Park,  Hornchurch  ;  second,  Mrs.  C.  A.  Tisdale, 
Trevor  Road,  Woodford  Green ;  third.  Miss  Jessie 
Langton,  Raymead,  Hendon,  each  exhibitor  employing 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay. 

For  a  basket  of  Roses  lightly  arranged  with  any  cut 
foliage.  Ferns  or  grasses,  no  ribbon  allowed  to  be  used,  Miss 
E.  M.  Robinson  was  first  with  a  delightful  mixture  of  Teas ; 
second.  Miss  Jessie  Langton,  Raymead,  Hendon,  who  had 
a  very  charming  arrangement ;  third,  Mrs.  E.  Williamson, 
Wilstead,  Canterbury,  whose  basket  was  very  pretty. 

Section  for  Decorative  Roses. 

For  twelve  distinct  varieties,  not  less  than  three  nor  more 
than  seven  trusses  of  each  variety,  in  a  space  5  feet  by 
.3  feet :  First,  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton,  Havering-atte- 
Bower,  Essex,  who  displayed  very  good  examples  of 
Maharajah,  Rosette  de  la  Legion  d'Honneur  and  Gustave 
Regis. 

For  six  distinct  varieties,  Mr.  Conway  Jones,  Huccle- 
cote,  Gloucester,  was  first  with  good  Perle  d'Or,  Irish 
Elegance,  Irish  Harmony  and  Cecile  Brunner  as  his  best 
examples ;  second,  Mr.  H.  R.  Darlington,  Potter's  Bar,  who 
-had  Sulphurea,  Laurette  Messimy  and  Mme.  Pernet-Ducher 
In  a  very  nice  lot. 

For  seven  varieties,  the  trusses  of  each  variety  to  be 
lightly  arranged  in  a  Bamboo  stand,  space  not  to  exceed 
•S  feet  by  3  feet :  First,  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton,  Havering- 
atte-Bower,  Essex,  whose  excellent  lot  contained  Trier, 
Hiawatha,  Grilss  an  Teplitz,  Leonie  Lamesch  and  Blush 
Monthly.  Daphne  was  also  charming.  Second,  Mr. 
Conway  Jones,  Hucelecote,  Gloucester,  who  had  Souvenir 
Xeglon  d'Honneur,  Gustave  Regis,  Mme.  Eugene  Resal, 
W.  A.  Richardson,  Bardou  Job  and  Homt're ;  third, 
Mrs.  V.  Wood,  Rosemount,  Rickmausworth,  with  Gustave 
Regis,  Trier,  Viscountess  Folkestone  and  Queen  Mab. 

New  Seedling  Roses. 

Mrs.  Edward  J.  Holland.— A.  beautiful  rich  pink  flower 
of  pointed  form  and  slightly  reflexed  petals,  the  colour 
heing  paler  towards  the  margins.  Slightly  fragrant  and 
apparently  a  very  good  Rose.  Evidently  a  Hybrid  Tea. 
.Shown  by  Messrs.  S.  McGredy  and  Sons,  Portadown, 
Ireland.    Gold  medal. 

Claudius.— A.  beautiful  Hybrid  Tea  of  exquisite  form, 
.reminding  one  very  much  of  a  Hybrid  Perpetual,  the  colour 
being  a  rich  cherry  red.  The  blooms  are  large  and  full 
and  very  fragrant.  Shown  by  Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and 
Sons,  Old  Rose  Gardens,  Colchester.    Gold  medal. 

Miss  Cynthia  Ford*.— A  very  pretty,  rather  blunt- 
pointed  Hybrid  Tea  of  a  pleasing  pink  and  silver  hue. 
'The  flowers  are  full,  of  good  shape  and  possess  a  moderate 
.fragrance.  Shown  by  Mr.  Hugh  Dickson,  Belfast.  Gold 
medal. 

Mrs.  Frank  Bray.^A  Hybrid  Tea  which  reminds  one 
very  much  of  Mme.  Ravary,  except  that  the  blooms  are  of 
better  shape  and  richer  orange  yellow  in  colour.  The 
.flowers  are  slightly  fragrant.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Alexander 
Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards.    Card  of  commendation. 

Mi'S.  Wakefield  Christie  Miller.— A  very  large  Hybrid  Tea 
of  beautiful  colour,  the  inner  surface  of  the  petals  being 
-silvery  pink  and  the  outer  cerise.  The  flowers  are  of  rather 
■flat  form.  Shown  by  Messrs.  S.  McGredy  and  Sons,  Porta- 
down.   Card  of  commendation. 

Mrs.  Arthur  E.  Coxhead.—A  pointed  flower  of  almost 
magenta  colour,  the  blossoms  being  highly  fragrant. 
'(^uite  a  distinct  colour,  though,  perhaps,  not  pleasing  to 
everyone.  Shown  by  Messrs.  S.  McGredy  and  Sons, 
Portadown.    Card  of  commendation. 

Jess-i*. — A  beautiful  and  free-flowering  Polyantha  of  a 
delightful  crimson  shade,  and  quite  an  advance  on  others 
of  this  section.  Shown  by  Messrs.  H.  Merryweather  and 
■Sons,  Southwell,  Notts.    Card  of  commendation. 

Best  Blooms  in  the  Show. 

Nurserymen.— KyhTid  Perpetual,  Mrs.  J.  Laing,  shown 
by  Messrs.  Adam  and  Craigmile,  Aberdeen  ;  Hybrid  Tea, 
Earl  of  Warwick,  also  shown  by  Messrs.  Adam  and 
•Craigmile ;  Tea,  Souv.  de  Pierre  Notting,  shown  by  Messrs. 
S.  McGredy  and  Sons,  Portadown,  Ireland. 

Atnatetirs.—B.y\>Ti(i  Perpetual,  Mrs.  J.  Laing,  shewn  by 
Mr.  W.  0.  Times,  Hitchln  :  Hybrid  Tea,  Earl  of  Warwick, 
^shown  by  the  Rev.  H.  S.  Arkwright,  Binfleld  Rectory, 
Berks;  Tea,  Maman  Cochet,  shown  by  Mr.  E.  B.  Lindsell, 
iBearton,  Hitchln. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE, 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit, 
tree,  shrub,  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


Flowers  from  a  Scottish  Garden. 
Dr.  MoWatt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B. ,  sends 
us  a  very  beautiful  and  comprehensive  collection 
of  flowers  now  in  season.  Among  these  were 
some  very  beautiful  Delphiniums,  which  at  this 
late  season  we  were  quite  surprised  to  see.  The 
colours  were  quite  unique  and  the  individual 
flowers  of  large  size.  In  addition,  there  were 
some  very  beautiful  Phloxes,  as  well  as  the 
following  plants,  all  of  which  showed  signs  of 
excellent  culture :  Stokesia  cyanea  (an  American 
perennial  with  Aster  flowers),  Arundo  oonspicua 
(the  New  Zealand  Reed,  earlier  than  Pampas 
Grass),  Astilbe  Davidi,  Spineas,  Agapanthus 
umbellatus  alba,  Buddleia  veitchianus,  Ceanothus 
Gloire  de  Versailles,  Clematis  davidiana,  several 
species  of  Broom,  Eupatorium  purpureum, 
Kniphofias,  Montbretias,  Sohizostylis  eoccinea. 
Polyanthuses,  Auriculas,  hardy  Ferns,  Indigofera 
gerardiana,  Eurybia  stellulata,  Potentillas 
frutioosa  and  Friedriohseni,  Gladiolus  The  Bride, 
Cyclamen  hederfefolium  and  album,  a  large 
variety  of  Heaths,  Pentstemons,  Carnations, 
Michaelmas  Daisies,  Anemone  Queen  Charlotte, 
A.  Prince  Heinrich,  A.  rosea  superba,  A.  Mont 
Rose,  A.  Coupe  d'Argent  and  A.  Beauts  Parfaite. 

Grapes  at  FPOgmoPe.— Many  readers 
of  The  Garden  who  grow  Grapes  will  be 
interested  to  learn  that  the  American  Strawberry 
Grape  is  grown  in  fair  quantity  on  the  back  walls 
of  vineries  and  in  one  of  the  corridors  attached 
to  the  glass  houses  in  the  Royal  Gardens, 
Frogmore,  and  that  the  fruit  is  greatly  liked  by 
the  King.  The  bunches  are  rather  long  and 
tapering ;  the  berries,  small  and  round,  are 
black,  but  have  a  very  peculiar  and  most  pleasant 
flavour.  Amid  all  the  fine  Grapes  commonly 
grown,  none  perhaps  has  flavour  of  the 
kind  so  peculiar  to  the  Strawberry  Grape. 
The  variety,  while  of  undoubted  American  origin, 
has  also  been  largely  grown  in  France  and  in 
other  parts  of  the  Continent.  Mr.  Barron,  in  his 
"  Book  of  the  Vine,"  states  that  it  will  grow  easily 
in  any  cool  bouse  and  needs  no  particular  care. 
The  foliage  is  large  and  very  handsome.  Possibly 
the  knowledge  that  this  Grape  has  found  Royal 
favour  will  lead  to  its  being  widely  planted.  So 
much  has  of  late  been  written  or  said  with 
respect  to  the  wonderful  renovation  seen  in  the 
veteran  Vine  at  Hampton  Court ;  but  it  must  not 
be  assumed  that  the  Royal  table  is  materially 
dependent  on  that  for  a  supply  of  Grapes.  To 
its  produce  may  be  added  the  still  larger  supply 
from  the  greater  Vine  at  Cumberland  Lodge, 
another  grandly  renovated  veteran  ;  but,  after  all, 
these  are  limited  quantities  compared  with  the 
produce  from  the  many  fine  Vines  at  Frog- 
more.  There  Grapes  are  grown  in  enormous 
quantities,  and  it  is  a  fine  sight  to  traverse  those 
houses  and  see  the  myriads  of  fine  bunches  hang- 
ing ready  for  the  knife,  but  not  to  be  out  in  a  day 
or  in  a  month,  but  during  several  months  ;  indeed, 
Muscat  of  Alexandria  keeping  till  March,  and 
Black  Alicante  and  Lady  Downe's  till  May,  will 
carry  the  supply  on  until  the  early  Hamburghs 
are  ready  and  ripe  in  that  month.  In  the 
yet  too-little-grown  Lady  Hutt  is  to  be 
found  a  very  valuable  late  Grape.     So  much  is 


that  variety  appreciated  that  Mr.  Maekellar  has 
one  large  vinery  full  of  it.  In  shape  the  bunches 
resemble  those  of  the  Hamburgh  ;  the  berries  in 
colour  are,  when  ripe,  of  a  pale  yellow.  Mr. 
Barron  mentions  in  his  book  that  the  bunches 
are  below  medium  size.  At  Frogmore  they  seem 
to  be  of  about  31b.  in  weight,  the  berries  being 
large  and  well  finished.  It  has  been  described  as 
a  midseason  Grape,  and  if  it  proves  to  be  a  good 
keeper  it  will  be  a  much  more  valuable  white 
variety.  Its  black  fellow,  Appley  Towers,  is  also 
largely  grown  and  is  greatly  favoured.  At  Frog- 
more it  grows  well  and  carries  fine  bunches 
of  well-finished  fruit.  It  seems  strange  that, 
although  twenty  years  have  elapsed  since 
Appley  Towers  received  a  first-class  certifi- 
cate, Lady  Hutt  getting  a  similar  award  in  1890, 
it  is  only  now  that  the  great  merits  of 
these  Grapes  are  being  recognised.  Both  came 
from  the  same  cross,  Gros  Colman  crossed  with 
Alicante,  and  were  raised  by  Mr.  Myles,  Appley 
Towers,  Ryde.  Other  Grapes  also  largely  grown 
are  Foster's  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  Madres- 
field  Court,  Gros  Maroc,  Mrs.  Pince,  Muscat 
Hamburgh,  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  Alicante  and 
Lady  Downe's.  The  Prince  of  Wales  will  also 
soon  form  a  stock  variety.  Hence  it  is  seen  that 
the  range  of  selection  is  a  very  wide  one.  It 
need  hardly  be  said  that  stone  fruits  are  very 
extensively  grown.  Peaches  are  in  huge  quantity, 
both  in  houses  and  on  outside  walls.  The  long 
south  Peach  wall  of  1,000  feet  run  is,  indeed,  a  fine 
sight.  The  early  Americans  are  not  grown. 
Stirling  Castle,  Dymond,  Bellegarde,  Marquis  of 
Downshire,  Gladstone,  Violette  Hative  and  Late 
Devonian  ;  and  of  Nectarines,  Cardinal,  Lord 
Napier,  Stanwick  Elruge,  Pine  Apple  and  Hum- 
boldt are  all  highly  favoured.  The  yellow-fleshed 
fruits  find  most  preference.  — D. 

TRADB      NOTBS. 


A  Good  Rose  Catalogue. 
Messrs.  J.  R.  Pearson  and  Sons  of  Lowdham,  Notts, 
send  us  their  Rose  catalogue  for  the  current  season,  and, 
as  usual,  we  find  this  of  a  very  interesting  character.  The 
illustrations  are  very  good  indeed,  and  as  the  varieties 
are  arranged  alphabetically,  the  list  Is  very  convenient  for 
reference.  In  addition  to  all  the  good  standard  varieties, 
the  best  of  the  novelties  are  listed,  and  we  have  no 
hesitation  in  recommending  our  readers  to  write  for  a 
copy  of  this  list. 

Heating  Apparatus. 
IIESSRS.  Charles  Toope  and  Son  of  Stepney  Square, 
High  Street,  Stepney,  E.,  send  us  their  illustrated  cata- 
logue of  heating  apparatus.  In  addition  to  boilers  for 
large  houses,  this  Urm  makes  a  speciality  of  small 
apparatuses  for  heating  frames  and  small  greenhouses, 
and  any  of  our  readers  who  are  requiring  such  goods 
cannot  do  better  than  write  to  the  firm  for  a  copy  of  this 
catalogue. 


"Ail  for  the  Garden." 
Under  the  above  title  Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons  of 
Crawley  are  issuing  a  beautifully  illustrated  brochure 
which  gives  abridged  particulars  of  the  firm's  work. 
Landscape  gardening,  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  Roses, 
herbaceous  flowers,  fruit  trees  and  vegetable  and  flower 
seeds  are  all  supplied  by  Messrs.  Cheal,  and  the  catalogues 
dealing  with  these  various  branches  of  horticulture  can, 
we  believe,  be  obtained,  post  free,  by  writing  to  the  firm. 


CATALOonES  Received. 
Messrs.  J.  R.  Pearson  and  Sons,  Lowdham,  Notts :  Roses. 
The    Dutch    Bulb  Supply    Company,    Tower    Ramparts, 

Ipswich ;  Bulbs  and  Herbaceous  Roots. 
Messrs.  Ant.  Koozen  and  Son,  Overveen,  near  Haarlem ; 

Agents  for  Great  Britain. 
Messrs.  Mertens  and  Co.,  3,  Cross  Lane,  St.  Mary-at-HllI, 

London,  £.C.  :  Bulbs. 
Bees,  Limited,  175,  Mill  Street,  Liverpool :  Bulbs. 
Messrs.    William     Samson    and    Co.,    Portland    Street, 

Kilmarnock ;  Bulbs. 
Messrs.  George  Cooling  and  Sons,  Bath  :  Bulbs. 
Messrs.  James  Murray  and  Sons,  Deptford,  London,  E. : 

Bulbs. 
Messrs.  Dlcksons,  Chester  :  Fruit  Trees, 
Messrs.  Keynes,  Williams  and  Co.,  Salisbury:  Bulbs. 


Magazines  Receia'bd. 
Fry's  and  the  Wide  World  (Newnes,  Limited,  Southampton 
Street,  Strand,  London). 


*.♦  The  Yearly  Subscription  to  THE  GARDEN  is:  Inland, 
68.  6d. ;  Foreign,  Ss.  9d. 


No.  1976.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


OcTOBiai  2,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


OoR  KosE  Number  .. 
The     Klemly     Sweet 

Peas     

Notes  of!  the  Week 

Funeral  of  the  late 
Mr.  Peter  Barr    .. 

CORRESFOITDBItOE 

tAbutilon  vexlUarium 
Robe  Garden 
Some    uncommon 

Roses         

A  fragrant  Kose 
Notes     on    newer 

Roses. — IV 

Irish  notes     480 

EHun  Garseii 

Fruit  notes       . .     . . 

Pot  Vines  for  table 

decoration      . .     . . 

Cherries  for  orchards 

E^oWER  Garden 

Notes  on  early  Tulips 
•   Oentiana     veitchi- 

orum        

The  pergola  at  Mont- 
greenan  House 
Gardens,  Ayrshire 


477 


477 


478 


478 


479 


481 


TREEa  AND  Shrubs 
Trees  and  shrubs  in 
New  Zealand . .     . .     483 

GARDENINS  for  BEaiNNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 
week        484 

Club-root  in  Cauli- 
flowers and  other 
greens      484 

Disbudding  C  a  r  n  a  - 
tions -.    485 

Planting  bulbs  in 
grass 486 

The  coral-spot  fungus    485 
The  Town  Garden  ..    485 

gakdbhiha  of  the  week 
For    the  South   and 

South  Midland!    . .    486 
For  the    North   and 
North  Midland!  ..    436 
Ahswebs    to    Corre- 
8F0NDBHIS 
Flower  garden  . .     . .     486 
Trees  and  shrubs     . .    487 
Miscellaneous  ..     ,,    4SS 
Kitchen  Garden 
New  Peas  at  Bedford    488 


IliliUBTRATIONS. 

The  new  Gentian,  Gentiana  veitchiorum      479 

Olearia  nitida  in  Mr.  Gumbleton's  garden    480 

Kniphofia  Northise  in  Mr.  Gumbleton's  garden  . .     . .  480 

A  triple  or  gridiron  cordon  Pear  Doyenn6  du  Cornice  481 

A  pot  Vine  ready  for  the  table 482 

The  pergola  at  Montgreenan  House  Gardens       . .     . .  483 

€lub-root  in  Cauliflowers  and  other  greens 434 

Disbudding  Carnations 485 

The  coral-spot  fungus 485 


BDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Bvery  department  of  hortioulture  is  represented  in  The 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  " Anffwers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  asfiatance. 
AU  communications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
onij/  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  THE 
Oarsen,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  rwtes, 
but  he  wUl  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return,  AU 
reasonable  care,  htmever,  mU  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
ore  enclosed,  he  wiU  eruUavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plaiTiiy  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  wiV,  be 
treated  with.  

Tlte  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  rut  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  am  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
vriU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offloeei  to,  Tavistack  Street,  Caveat  Garden,  W.C. 


OUR    ROSE    NUMBER. 

Nbxt  week  we  shall  publish  a  number  largely 
devoted  to  the  Rose.  A  coloured  plate  will  be 
given  of  the  Hybrid  TeaJRose  Marquise  de  Sinety, 
and  a  feature  will  be  a  supplement  containing  the 
portraits  of  the  loading  hybridists  of  the  British 
Isles,  including  those  of  the  late  Lord  Penzance 
and  Henry  Bennett.  One  object  of  this  supple- 
ment is  to  emphasise  the  beautiful  work,  not 
appreciated  at  its  full  worth,  that  has  been 
accomplished  by  the  Rose  hybridists  of  these 
isles,  and  as  complete  a  list  as  possible  will  be 
given  of  the  Roses  raised  in  this  country.  We 
think  this  list  will  surprise  those  who  regard  the 
raisers  in  other  lands  as  the  only  earnest  workers 
in  this  important  phase  of  horticultural  develop- 
ment ;  but  in  writing  this  we  are  not  forgetful 
of  the  work,  too,  of  foreign  raisers,  who  have 
given  us  flowers  that  are  in  every  garden 
worthy  of  the  name.  Besides  these  features 
there  will  be  illustrations  of  Rose  Dorothy 
Perkins  in  Mr.  T.  W.  Lawson's  garden  in 
America,  a  rustic  bridge  smothered  with  Roses 
in  an  old-fashioned  garden,  the  Himalayan  Rosa 
Brunonis  in  Surrey,  and  the  weekly  illustrations 
for  beginners.  In  this  number  an  article  with 
diagrams  on  the  propagation  of  the  Jasmine  will 
appear.  The  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton,  one  of 
the  most  successful  amateur  exhibitors,  will  help 
the  beginner  in  the  first  steps  ;  and  there  will 
also  be  articles  on  Roses  for  Decoration,  by  Mrs. 
Williamson  ;  Seasonable  Work  in  the  Rose 
Garden ;  Old  Garden  Roses,  by  Mrs.  Davidson  ; 
New  Roses,  by  Mr.  H.  E.  Molyneux  ;  Marquise 
de  Sinety  Rose,  by  Mr.  W.  Easlea ;  and  the 
usual  weekly  features  of  The  Garden.  The 
front  cover  will  be  illustrated  in  colour,  the  Rose 
represented  being  the  Hybrid  Tea  Warrior.  We 
feel  sure  that  this  excellent  number  will  interest 
immensely  all  who  love  the  Rose. 


THE     TELEMLY     SWEET 
PEAS. 

Now  is  the  time  to  sow  the  true 
winter-flowering  Sweet  Peas  from 
Algiers.  We  have  grown  them  two 
seasons  and  consider  them  in- 
dispensable. They  are  easily  grown 
and  flower  almost  as  profusely  in  a  cool  house  from 
Christmas  onwards  as  our  Sweet  Peas  in  summer. 
I  would  recommend  all  those  who  have  not  seen 
them  to  give  them  a  trial  ;  once  grown,  I  am 
sure  they  would  find  them  a  great  acquisition. 
Coming  in  as  the  Chrysanthemums  are  going 
over,  they  fill  a  gap  and  make  a  welcome  change 
either  for  cutting  or  for  conservatory  decoration. 


There  is  a  wonderful  range  of  colour  among  them, 
too,  red,  red  and  white,  violet,  pale  primrose, 
pink,  lavender  pink,  purple,  lavender  and  the 
following  new  eolours  this  season,  blue,  white, 
cerise  and  mauve. 

The  Rev.  Edwyn  Arkwright,  who  introduced 
them  to  this  country,  informed  me  two  years  ago 
that  he  was  induced  to  do  so  by  friends,  as  they 
were  such  a  success  in  Algiers.  He  also  kindly 
tells  me  that  all  the  proceeds  are  devoted  t* 
the  funds  of  the  English  Cottage  Hospital  at 
Algiers,  so  those  who  purchase  will  know 
that  they  are  helping  a  good  cause.  As 
this  is  now  my  third  season  of  growing  them, 
it  may  be  a  help  to  those  who  have  not 
tried  them  if  I  give  a  few  details  of  my 
success  in  their  culture.  Sow  now  in  5-ineh 
pots,  six  seeds  in  a  pot,  in  a  compost  composed 
of  three  parts  loam,  one  part  leaf-mould  and 
sahd,  with  a  dash  of  bone-meal  and  a  sprinkle  of 
soot ;  the  latter  helps  to  keep  the  haulm  a  good 
colour,  as  during  the  long  dark  days  of  winter 
they  are  inclined  to  become  pale.  Stand  on  a 
shelf  in  a  cool  greenhouse  near  the  glass,  or  in  a 
cold  frame  until  the  frosts  come.  When  they 
are  12  inches  high  pot  into  7-inch  pots,  and  when 
2  feet  high  into  10-inch  pots,  using  the  compost 
coarser  each  time.  Always  keep  them  as  near 
the  glass  as  possible,  for  if  a  long  way  from  the 
light  they  are  sure  to  become  drawn  and  weakly, 
and  the  consequence  will  be  they  will  flower 
indifferently  and  you  will  be  disappointed  after 
all  your  labour.  I  use  Bamboo  stakes  a  foot 
high  to  start  with,  gradually  increasing  their 
height  to  5  feet,  always  securing  the  growths  so 
that  they  do  not  double  over.  One  stake  in  the 
centre  of  the  pot  and  four  others  round  make  a 
good  clump  when  fully  covered  with  growth  and 
flower,  and  when  stood  a  yard  apart,  as  I  do  in 
spring  through  a  range  of  fruit-houses,  along  the 
side  of  the  path,  one  can  almost  fancy  themselves 
walking  in  the  open  garden  in  summer  admiring 
the  Sweet  Peas.  I  consider  they  have  a  great 
future  before  them,  and  to  those  who  can  do  so 
I  would  advise  them  to  have  a  Sweet  Pea  house 
this  winter,  try  the  T^lemly,  and  I  am  sure  they 
will  be  delighted  with  them.        W.  Wallacb. 

The  Oardens,  Wrotham  Hill  Park, 
Wrotham,  Kent. 

[This  is  a  most  interesting  race  of  Sweet  Peas, 
and  the  notes  from  our  contributor  describe 
their  beauty  and  cultivation  so  explicitly  that 
one  may  hope  for  this  fragrant  flower  a  greater 
popularity  than  it  enjoys  at  present.  Sweet 
Peas  have  become  amazingly  popular  of 
recent  years,  and  it  is  a  flower  that  one  never 
tires  of ;  its  freshness  of  colour  and  sweet 
scent  are  as  welcome  as  those  of  the  Rose 
itself.  To  have  Sweet  Peas  at  Christmas  is  to 
bring  the  summer  garden  into  the  winter  itself. 
—Ed.] 


478 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  October  2,  1909. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING  EVENT. 

October  12.— Royal  Horticultural  Society— 
MeetiDg  of  Commiteee,  12  noon.  Horticultural 
Club,  H.  Inigo  Triggs,  F.R.I.B.A.,  on  "Italian 
Gardens,"  with  lantern  slides. 


Funeral   of  the  late   Mr.    Peter 

BaPP. — The  funeral  of  the  late  Jlr.  Peter  Barr 
in  the  Islington  Cemetery,  East  Finohley,  on 
Tuesday  in  last  week  was  marked  by  the  utmost 
simplicity,  according  to  his  wishes,  practically 
only  the  family  being  present,  with  a  few 
personal  friends.  The  floral  tributes  were  very 
beautiful,  and  that  from  the  Hortus  Masonic 
College  was  of  Heather  and  Camellias.  Mr. 
Barr's  favourite  flowers^-apart  from  the  Daffodil 
— Primroses  and  Lenten  Roses  were  scattered  in 
the  grave  as  a  silent  witness  to  his  love  for 
homely  garden  favourites. 

South  -   EaBtepn     Agploultupal 

Colleg^e. — The  South-Eastern  Agricultural 
College,  Wye,  Kent,  will  begin  the  190910 
session  on  October  4.  The  full  complement  of 
students,  120,  will  be  in  residence,  and  it  is 
satisfactory  to  record  that  all  the  places  reserved 
for  Kent  and  Surrey  ratepayers  will  be  filled. 
Three  scholarships  have  been  awarded  by  the 
Kent  County  Council,  and  two  of  these  have  been 
won  by  East  Kent  farmers'  sons  ;  in  one  case  it 
is  the  third  and  in  the  other  the  second  member 
of  the  family  attending  the  college.  The  prizes 
and  diplomas  awarded  during  last  session  will  be 
distributed  on  Saturday,  October  9,  at  2  p.m.,  by 
the  Principal  of  London  University. 

Bouquet   Dahlias  at  Slough.— 

Several  members  of  the  National  Dahlia  Society's 
committee  went  to  the  Royal  Nurseries,  Slough, 
on  September  22,  on  the  invitation  of  Mr. 
Charles  Turner,  to  inspect  his  extensive  collec- 
tion of  Bouquet  or  Pompon  Dahlias  there  grown 
under  the  usual  conditions  this  season.  It  was 
the  desire  of  the  Dahlia  Society  that  other 
growers  or  raisers  of  these  Dahlias  should  send 
of  their  varieties  to  Slough  last  spring,  that  they 
might  be  grown  fortrialas  gardendecorativeplants 
with  Mr.  Turner's.  That  desire,  however,  was 
not  realised  ;  hence  the  varieties  grown,  seventy- 
five  in  number,  were  entirely  of  Mr.  Turner's  own 
stock,  yet,  happily,  seemed  to  include  all  the 
best  varieties  in  commerce.  Generally  the  plants 
were  all  robust,  some  especially  so,  perhaps 
more  than  usual,  having  regard  to  the  moist 
season  that  has  prevailed.  In  any  case,  all  were 
grown  on  precisely  the  same  lines,  and  where 
any  special  merits  were  seen  it  is  but  fair  to 
assume  those  merits  would  mark  the  varieties 
under  any  form  of  treatment.  Generally  the 
number  of  plants  of  each  variety  seen  ranged  from 
six  to  twelve,  hence  the  test  related  not  to  one 
plant  simply,  but  to  several.  Mr.  Turner  had 
most  thoughtfully  provided  the  inspecting  body, 
thirteen  in  number,  with  cards  giving  the  names  of 
each  variety  and  spaces  for  marks  and  notes. 
Primary  consideration  was  given  to  garden 
beauty,  that  being  found  in  good  striking 
colours,  flowers  of  excellent  quality  and  well 
borne  above  the  leafage  on  erect  stems.  Out 
of  the  total  number,  eighteen  received  the 
maximum  number  of  three  marks,  while  seven- 
teen were  so  far  good  as  to  secure  two  marks. 
We  give  the  names  of  the  best  eighteen  only, 
and  can  guarantee  that  all  are,  for  the  purpose 
named,  specially  good  and  effective  :  Daisy, 
amber,  shaded  orange  ;  Darkest  of  All,  deep 
maroon  ;  Falcon,  orange  yellow  ;  Ideal,  pure 
yellow  ;  Iris,  amber  and  fawn,  shaded  salmon  ; 
Isabel,  orange  scarlet ;  Mars,  bright  scarlet ; 
Montague  Wootton,  white,  edged  lake  ;  Nerissa, 
soft  rose  ;  Portia,  deep  mauve  ;  Romulus,  crim- 
son lake  ;  Silvia,  pale  ground,  edged  rose ;  Tommy 
Keith,  crimson,  tipped  white  ;  Vara,  yellow  ; 
Virginale,  pure  white  ;  Whisper,  clear  yellow, 
edged  red ;  White  Aster,  pure  white  ;  and 
Zerlina,  orimeon  maroon.     Of  thesa  six  secured 


double  marks,  receiving  also  three  each  as  exhibi- 
tion flowers.  These  were  Tommy  Keith,  Nerissa, 
Ideal,  Montague  Wootton,  Falcon  and  Daisy. 
Others  getting  the  maximum  of  marks  only  as 
exhibition  flowers  were  Adela,  Nellie  Brom- 
head,  Hecla,  Cyril,  Clarenee,  Douglas,  Edith 
Bryant  and  Adelaide.  Cactus  Dahlias  generally 
were  disappointing  as  garden  flowers.  Some  of 
the  Pseony-flowered  varieties  are  showy,  but 
rather  ill-formed  and  coarse  in  appearance.  The 
very  best  garden  variety  among  the  large  show 
section  is  Edward  Mawley,  deep  crimson,  which  is 
really  a  superb  garden  plant,  the  flowers  being 
borne  on  tall  stout  stems  most  conspicuously. 

Bpussels    Exhibition,   1910.— 

An  International  Horticultural  Congress  is  an- 
nounced, in  connexion  with  the  above  exhibition, 
from  April  30  and  May  1,  2  and  3  next.  Horti- 
culturists and  societies  of  all  nations  are 
invited  to  take  part  by  the  committee  organising 
the  Congress.  This  committee  consists  of  many 
of  the  most  eminent  Belgian  horticulturists, 
besides  various  Government  officials.  Sub-com- 
mittees are  formed  for  dealing  with  the  numerous 
subjects  of  interest  that  are  to  be  submitted  for 
consideration,  and  they  are  grouped  into  seven 
principal  sections.  They  are  as  follows  :  Flori- 
culture, Fruit  Tree  Culture,  Market  (4arden 
Culture,  Science  and  Educational,  Horticultural 
Economy,  Horticultural  Mechanics  and  Works, 
Special  Processes.  Anyone  interested  can  obtain 
the  programme  on  application  to  the  Secretary, 
International  Horticultural  Congress,  28  Rue  Ste. 
Catherine,  Brussels. 


CORRESPONDENCE.^ 

(Thi  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

Colour    nomenclature.  —  For   many 

years  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  has  been 
confronted  with  the  difficulty  ef  describing 
exaetly  the  colour  of  any  particular  flower  in 
terms  which  shall  be  distinctly  and  definitely 
intelligible  in  New  York,  Paris,  Berlin,  Quebec, 
&o. ,  as  in  London.  It  is  a  difficulty  shared  by 
all  who  have,  in  any  way  or  at  any  time,  to 
represent  colour  in  words.  We  determined, 
therefore,  to  endeavour  to  establish  an  Inter- 
national code  by  which  anyone,  anywhere,  could 
convey  to  anyone  else  at  a  distance  of  time  or 
place  exactly  and  precisely  the  colour  and  shade 
he  is  speaking  of.  With  this  end  in  view  we 
searched  for  a  good  colour  chart,  and  have  been 
successful  in  finding  an  excellent  one  containing 
360  colours  between  white  and  black  with  the 
name  of  each  in  French,  German,  English,  Spanish 
and  Italian,  together  with  four  shades  of  each  of 
the  360  colours,  so  that  anyone  wishing  to  describe 
to  a  friend  at  Calcutta  the  exact  colour  and 
shade  of  a  flower  or  a  silk  or  a  painting  need 
only  refer  to  the  colour  chart  number,  quoting 
if  for  apricot,  e.g.,  page  53,  shade  3  ;  or  if  for 
rosy  pink,  page  118,  shade  4;  and  so  on.  The 
cost  of  production  of  so  beautifully  printed  and 
so  large  a  chart  was,  of  course,  very  heavy,  and 
it  was  issued  at  one  guinea  net ;  but  our  society, 
by  adopting  it  as  an  International  standard  and 
purchasing  a  very  large  number  of  copies  from 
the  publisher,  is  able  to  supply  it  to  our  Fellows 
and  others  at  14s.  6d.,  or  if  by  post  158.  My 
excuse  for  asking  for  space  in  your  valuable 
journal  to  make  this  widely  known  is  the  mani- 
fest utility  which  would  accrue  to  everyone  all 
the  world  over  if  this  chart  were  adopted 
universally  as  a  standard  of  colour  nomenclature, 
not  only  (as  it  will  be)  for  flowers,  but  also  for 
all  trade  and  commercial  purposes  which  relate 
in  any  way  to  colour.  How  very  vague,  for 
example,  are  most  people's  ideas  of  the  distinc- 
tion between  purple,  crimson  and  mauve,  and  how 
often  is  the  word  carmine  used  as  an  easy  method 
of  solving  the  difficulty  without  conveying  any 
definite  notion  as  to  what  colour  exactly  is 
meant.     It  would  make  it  quite  easy  for  mercers 


and  drapers  to  match  any  goods  for  customers  at 
a  distanee  ;  in  fact,  if  once  we  could  establish 
this  ehart  as  an  International  colour  reference, 
its  subsequent  use  weuld  develop  in  all  direc- 
tions. I  need  hardly  say  that  our  society  has 
no  pecuniary  interest  in  the  matter  whatever. — 
W.  WII.K3,  Secretary. 

A  MulbePPy  CUttlngf.- As  Mulberries 
are  usually  very  slow-growing  trees,  you  may, 
perhaps,  be  interested  to  know  that  a  cutting 
which  we  took  of  a  really  old  tree  last  autumn 
(on  November  20,  1908)  has  struck  well,  made 
new  growth  recently  and  had  five  fruits.  Two 
have  disappeared,  but  three  are  still  growing 
and  even  colouring.  The  little  bush  is  14  inches 
high  and  50  inshes  in  circumference,  and  at 
present  grows  near  the  shelter  of  a  western  wall. 
A  friend  about  a  mile  away  has  a  similar 
experience  with  a  quite  young  and  apparently 
healthy  tree  two  years  old.  Would  you  recom- 
mend an  autumn  dressing  of  crushed  bones  as 
well  as  lime  rubble  ? — William  Phbar,  Brock- 
hurst,  Bxmouth.  P.S. — Since  writing  this  all 
the  fruits  have  dropped,  but  the  plant  is  strong 
and  healthy. — W.  P.  [Yes  ;  the  manure  will  be 
very  helpful. — Ed  ] 

Notospartlum    Capmlchaelise.  — 

You  woula  like,  I  thought,  to  know  that  this 
beautiful  New  Zealand  Broom  is  rarely  seen  in  gar- 
dens. Here  we  have  a  plant  4  feet  to  5  feet  high, 
and  in  June  is  a  mass  of  pink.  This  season  it  has 
flowered  remarkably  well,  the  shoots  being  borne 
down  with  the  quantity  of  bloom.  Its  habit  is 
somewhat  similar  to  that  of  Spartium  junceum, 
the  wood  not  quite  so  large,  perhaps,  but 
round  and  drooping,  which  adds  to  the  effect 
The  flowers  are  small  and  in  little  bunches  all 
along  the  shoot.  Here  it  is  quite  hardy  and 
does  not  appear  t«  mind  either  position  or  soil  ; 
in  fact,  the  place  where  it  is  growing  is  exposed 
to  a  north-west  draught,  and  very  keen  at  times, 
but  still  it  does  well.  It  is  one  of  tiie  most  beauti- 
ful of  summer-flowering  shrubs  and  ought  t«  be 
grown  more  than  it  is.  It  appears  to  be  rather 
a  shy  seed  -  bearer,  and  very  few  pods  are 
swelling  considering  the  quantity  of  flowers 
borne. — E.  C.  Pooley,  Onaton  Gardens,  Plymeuth. 

Opowlne:  Peaches  In  a  email 
gpeenhouse.  —  In  The  Garden  of  Sep- 
tember 11,  page  444,  I  read  an  article  on  this 
subject  in  reply  to  a  correspondent  in  North 
Lancashire.  There  it  is  stated  "  you  would  be 
well  advised  to  get  the  nurseryman  who  supplies 
the  trees  to  have  them  properly  pruned  root  and 
branch  ready  for  planting."  My  advice  is  to 
plant  the  trees  called  strong  maidens,  and  on  no 
account  to  prune  any  branches  off  them,  unless 
where  broken  or  where  bark  may  b»  injured, 
until  they  have  had  time  to  take  root  and  begiD 
to  swell  the  buds.  The  weak  shoots  may  be 
then  cut  out,  but  the  strong  ones  should  be  left 
entire,  except  such  as  are  badly  placed  for 
training ;  but  by  properly  examining  the  shape 
of  the  tree  at  planting-time  there  may  not  be 
many  of  these.  The  trees  grow  and  prodac* 
splendid  crops,  and  keep  free  from  disease  with 
any  fair  treatment.  I  have  planted  them  as 
described,  and  have  always  been  most  successful. 
There  is  a  late  variety  which  I  have  found  very 
profitable,  that  is.  Sea  Eagle.  It  is  a  splendid, 
large,  well-flavoured  fruit,  and  bears  well ;  it  is 
not  mentioned  in  the  article. — A.  H.  T.  de 
Montmorency,  F.R.  H.S.,  Carrickmines. 

Abutilon  vexlllaPium.— This  hand- 
some evergreen  species  is,  readers  might  like  to 
know,  quite  hardy  here.  It  is  growing  against 
a  wall,  and  is  in  flower  quite  six  months  of 
the  year,  sometimes  longer.  Its  long,  slender 
shoots  bear  pendulous  flowers,  are  vBry  effective, 
and  attain  a  height  of  6  feet  to  8  feet.  The 
flowers  are  very  curious  and  always  attract 
attention,  having  crimson  sepals,  yellow  petals, 
and  dark  brown  stamens  hanging  out  like  a 
little  brush.  The  variegated  form  is  quite  aa 
hardy  and  perhaps  more  effective,  having  yellow 
markings.  Both  varieties  grow  very  quickly, 
and  often  require  sutting  back  to  keep  them  ia 


October  2,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


479 


their  places.  Solanum  crispum  is  another  plant 
that  deserves  to  be  grown  more  than  it  is.  The 
flowers  are  in  bunches,  and  are  lavender  with 
yellow  centres.  It  i'»  very  effective  when  in 
bloom,  often  growing  10  feet  high,  with  arching 
shoots.  It  is  quite  at  home  in  a  stiif  loam,  and 
is   hardy  here,   standing   in   rather   an   exposed 

position.  E.     C.     Pooley,    Gitaton    Gardeiis, 

Plymouth. 

The  late  Peter  Barr.— Peter  Barr  is 
dead  !  And  a  remarkable  and  striking  per- 
sonality, one  of  the  best-known  horticulturists  of 
his  time,  has  passed  away.  To  the  great  majority 
of  the  rising  generation  Mr.  Barr  will  be  best 
known  as  the  "Daffodil  King  "and  pioneer-in- 
ohief  of  the  modern  race  of  Daffodils  whose 
coming  has  beautified  the  gardens  of  the  civilised 
world,  transformed  often  large  and  unre- 
munerative  vegetable-growing  areas  into  profit- 
able flower  farms,  and  both  directly  and  in- 
directly has  provided  work  for  many  thousands  of 
hands  by  reason  of  an  iodustry  which,  if  not 
entirely  new  at  the  moment,  is  increasing  in 
area  each  year.  To  have  lived  to  see  such  a  day, 
to  realise  the  great  influx  of  seedling  Daffodils 
appearing  from  time  to  time,  and  to  be  able  to 
compare  the  present  with  the  past  in 
these  matters  as  only  Peter  Barr  could 
have  done,  is  not  given  to  many 
men  ;  while  to-day  to  set  about  their 
classification  would  prove  a  task  far 
more  formidable  and  embarrassing 
than  that  of  Peter  Barr's  some  thirty- 
five  years  ago,  when  he  first  began  to 
grapple  with  that  early  race  of 
hybrids,  and  from  out  of  which  the 
present  races  of  these  flowers  have 
been  evolved.  As  one  who  knew 
him  in  these  early  days,  and  for 
years  saw  much  of  his  ceaseless 
energy,  I  can  honestly  say  that  I 
never  knew  a  greater  glutton  for 
work,  and  long  before  the  talk  of 
intensive  cultivation  in  England  Peter 
Barr  was  himself  an  intensive  culti- 
vator and  worker  of  a  very  original 
and  pronounced  type.  Long  before 
the  coming  of  the  early  hybrid 
Daffodils,  however,  Mr.  Barr  had 
devoted  much  time  to  Lenten  Roses, 
Liliums,  Irises,  Pseonies  and  the 
like  ;  while  it  may  be  news  to  some 
that  he  had  so  great  a  liking  for 
choice  alpine  plants  that  at  one  time 
he  delighted  to  have  them  near  him 
at  home,  and  indeed  constructed  a 
sort  of  window-sill  rook  garden  at  his 
private  house  at  Tooting,  where  he 
grew  many  choice  and  interesting  kinds 
to  perfection.  To  have  attempted 
and  suecesBtully  carried  out  this 
idea  in  days  long  before  alpine  plants  and  rock 
gardens  had  become  the  adjuncts  of  gardens  as 
they  appear  to  be  to-day  evidences  two 
things — the  original  ideas  of  the  man  and  his 
love  for  plants.  Tulips  naturally  largely  engaged 
his  attention,  and  his  interest  in  these  alone  was 
like  his  knowledge  of  them —prof ound.  Choice 
and  rare  bulbs  and  tuberous  -  rooted  plants 
always  delighted  him,  and  his  catalogues  were 
full  of  them,  albeit  occasionally  one  drew  a  long 
gasp  at  the  price.  One  in  particular,  Chionodoxa 
Lucilise,  before  its  reintroduotion  by  Mr.  Maw, 
occurs  to  me  at  the  moment ;  its  price  was  7s.  6d. 
per  bulb,  the  tiny  morsel,  little  larger  than 
a  good-sized  culinary  Pea,  coming  to  hand 
in  tissue  paper  and  cotton-wool,  enclosed  in  a  pill- 
box. At  no  other  establishment,  however,  than 
Birr's  could  the  plant  then  have  been  obtained. 
The  life-work  of  Peter  Barr — and  the  fact 
should  be  remembered  with  thankfulness  by  those 
who  gardeu  chiefly  out  of  doors — has  been  devoted 
to  hardy  plants,  not  in  words  but  in  deeds,  and  the 
benefit  of  his  strenuous  and  untiring  labours  is 
felt  to-day  in  all  the  gardens  of  the  world  where 
hardy  plants  can  be  grown. — E.  H.  Jenkins, 
Hampton  Hill, 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 


I 


SOME  UNCOMMON  KOSES. 
N  these  days  of  Hybrid  Teas  and  ramblers 
other  tribes  are  in  danger  of  being  over- 
looked. This  may  not  be  of  much  con- 
cern to  the  owner  of  the  villa  garden,  but 
to  those  individuals  who  would  possess  a 
real  rosary  there  are  some  beautiful  old 
sorts  that  should  not  be  lost  sight  of.  One 
of  special  beauty  which  I  think  is  scarcely 
known  is 

Glynophylla  duplex.  It  is  a  charming  Rose, 
with  a  bloom  as  dainty  as  a  Tea-scented  variety 
and  of  a  delicate  blush  colour.  The  foliage  is 
particularly  glossy  and  handsome,  and  the  plant 
grows  quite  freely  on  the  Briar.  Some  group 
this  variety  with  R.  lucida,  but  to  me  it  appears 
to  belong  more  to  R.  bracteata  or  the  Macartney 
Rose.  The  double  form  of  R.  lucida  is  also 
quaintly  pretty.     It  is  generally  known  as 

Rose  Button.  The  bud  is  very  charming,  of 
perfect  shape  and  bright  rose  pink,  with  deeper 
centre.  This  Rose  is  very  little  known,  not  so 
much  as  it  deserves   to   be.     It  will  grow  into 


is  a  remarkable  Rose,  and  was  first  found 
growing  on  the  walls  of  a  convent  near  Berne 
in  1827. 

Rosa  microphylla  is  a  most  peculiar  Rose,  with 
very  quaint  buds  resembling  a  Spanish  Chestnut 
before  they  expand,  owing  to  the  prickly,  broad 
sepals  of  the  calyx.  The  colour  of  the  bloom  is 
rosy  carmine  and  is  very  pretty  as  it  unfolds  its 
buds.  Apparently  a  useful  species  to  hybridise, 
for  I  saw  some  very  distinct  crosses  raised  by 
Mr.  Smith  of  Newry  planted  out  in  the  Rose 
borders  at  Kew  Gardens.  A  variety.  Ma  Surprise, 
has  rosy  white  flowers  and  the  most  beautiful 
foliage  imaginable.  The  foliage  of  R.  micro- 
phylla is  also  very  pretty,  sometimes  as  many 
as  fifteen  leaflets  ranging  on  the  sides  of  the 
petiole.  I  once  saw  a  grand  specimen  of  Ma 
Surprise  growing  in  the  .Jardin  d'Acelimatation, 
Paris,  and  its  beautiful  amber-coloured  shoots 
were  really  most  picturesque.  What  may  be 
looked  upon  as  one  of  the  first  of  the  once 
popular  Hybrid  Perpetual  group  is 

Rose  du  Roi,  a  variety  of  perpetual-flowering 

habit  with  foliage  and   wood  resembling  the  old 

Gallica   Roses.     It  is  deliciously   sweet  and,  I 

believe,   largely  grown  in   India    for  distilling 

purposes.      The  colour    is    crimson, 

very  bright  and  lovely  in  the  bud. 

Hebe's  Lip  is  a  lovely  single  Rose 
with  cream-coloured  blooms  edged 
with  red.  All  who  admire  single 
Roses  should  possess  this  Briar, 
which,  apart  from  its  blooms,  has 
claims  upon  us  for  fragrant  foliage. 

Stamoell  Perpetual  Scotch  Rose  is  a 
real  gem  of  the  most  dainty  blush 
colouring,  with  large,  flattish  blooms. 
It  makes  a  grand  isolated  bush,  and 
would  soon  form  a  nice,  fairly  low 
hedge.  The  perpetual-flowering  habit 
is  valuable,  for  though  not  very 
profuse,  it  is  a  Rose  that  is  rarely 
without  an  open  flower  all  through 
the  season.  My  last  old  favourite  to 
notice  is 

Jaune  Desprez,  or,  as  the  catalogues 
used  to  put  it,  Desprez  a  fleur  .Jaiine. 
How  rarely  do  we  see  this  beautiful 
old  Rose  with  its  large  clusters  of 
buff-coloured  flowers  that  were  so 
very  fragrant  I  It  is  a  Rose  that  is 
almost  evergreen,  and  grows  very 
luxuriantly  when  planted  against  a 
south  or  west  wall.  P. 


THE   NEW   GENTIAN,    GENTIANA   VEIIOHIORrM.     (See  page  l,SS.) 


quite  a  shrub  if  raised  from  cuttings,  as  it  should 
be.     Then  there  is  the  white  Macartney  Rose 

Alba  simplex.  When  in  late  summer  and 
autumn  it  produces  numbers  of  its  large  white 
blooms,  it  makes  a  beautiful  show  against  a  low 
wall.  The  rich  array  of  goldea  anthers  is  an 
important  feature,  but  so  also  is  the  pretty  foliage, 
80  tiny  and  so  bright  and  almost  evergreen.  It  is 
a  Rose  of  Chinese  origin,  having  been  brought 
over  by  Lord  Macartney  at  the  end  of  the 
eighteenth  century.  Another  pretty  Rose  of  this 
group  is 

Maria  Leonida,  with  semi-double  flowers  of  a 
white  colour,  with  a  rosy  centre  suffused  with 
cream.  The  flowers  are  fairly  large,  and  it  is  a 
most  charming  Rose  when  trained  against  a  low 
south  wall,  but  should  not  be  grown  away  from 
a  wall  or  fence,  as  it  is  not  quite  hardy,  unless, 
perhaps,  in  the  South  of  England.  I  have  been 
in  scores  of  gardens  that  made  a  great  feature 
of  Roses,  but  have  never  yet  found  the 

Crested  Moss,  cristata  or  Crested  Provence  as 
it  is  called.  Its  flowers,  not  unlike  the  common 
Cabbage  Rose,  are  beautifully  enveloped  in  a 
crest-like  growth  resembling  roughish  Moss,  the 
crest  even  appearing  at  times  in  the  leaves.     It 


A  FRAGRANT  ROSE. 
There  are  few  good  and  fragrant 
red  Roses  that  look  well  on  a  wall. 
How  often  one  sees  Reine  Marie 
Henriette— a  typically  scentless  Rose 
— though  there  is  another  and  even  finer  Rose,  La 
France  de  1889,  which  shows  to  the  greatest  advan- 
tage on  a  wall,  and  moreover  will  give  splendid 
and  fragrant  blooms  quite  late  in  November. 
The  other  day  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  this 
fine  old  Rose  in  the  greatest  beauty,  covering  a 
high  wall  facing  nearly  east,  and  felt  more  regret 
than  ever  at  seeing  it  so  rarely.  I  really  think  its 
terrible  name  must  deter  folk  from  ordering  it. 
There  are  so  few  red  Roses  that  make  wall- 
climbers  that  it  is  worth  a  place  in  any  garden  of 
fragrant  Roses. 

E.  H.  WooDALL,  in  Country  Life. 


NOTES    ON    NEWER   ROSES.-IV. 
Hybrid  Teas. 
(Continued  Jrom  page  /fG-'-) 
Celia    (William    Paul    and    Son    of  Waltham 
Cross,  1906). — This  Rose  is  a  good  colour,  bright, 
clear     satin    pink  ;    very    free    flowering    and 
should    make    a    good    garden    and    decorative 
variety ;    good    habit     of    growth,    similar    to 
Caroline    Testout,    to    which    no    doubt    it    is 
related. 


480 


THE    GARDEN. 


(October  2,  1909. 


Countess  of  Oos/ord  (8.  M'Uredy  and  Son, 
Portadown,  Ireland,  1906). — Now  that  we  are 
getting  some  age  into  our  plants,  this  Rose  is  im- 
proving. Its  fault  was  that  it  had  so  few  petals, 
but  this  season  it  has  frequently  had  quite  a 
"lot  of  stuff''  in  it,  to  use  a  not  very  elegant 
but  expressive  term  in  use  among  exhibitors. 
It  is  undeniably  a  very  beautiful  Rose  ;  at  its 
best  there  are  not  many  Roses  so  graeeiul,  the 
turn  of  the  petal  being  well-nigh  perfect.  Its 
colour  is  a  delightful  blending  of  rose,  salmon  and 
pink,  with  an  under  colour  of  yellow  that  cannot 
be  accurately  described.  Its  refinement  is 
marked,  and  those  who  prefer  beauty  to  size 
ohould  grow  this  Rose.  It  is  free,  has  a  good 
habit  of  growth,  and  repays  high  culture.  Gold 
medal,  National  Rose  Society. 

Crown  Princess  Cecilie  (J.  C.  Schmidt,  1907). — 
A  email  but  pretty  flower,  pale  pink,  very  tree, 
but  I  do  not  think  it  will  be  wanted.  A  flower 
of  its  colour  must  be  very  striking  and  excep- 
tionally good  if  it  is  to  replace  those  we  have 
already. 

Crimson  Ooh'H  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1905). 
A  good  bedding  Rose  of  very  fine  crimson 
colour  ;  very  free,  the  flowers  coming  in 
clusters. 

Cynthia  (William  Paul  and  Son  of  Waltham 
Cross,  1909). — I  believe  this  is  coming  into 
commerce  this  season.  It  is  a  very  good  K.  A. 
Victoria  seedling  with  plenty  of  petals,  and 
should  find  its  way  on  to  the  exhibition  bench  in 
time.  I  have  not  grown  it,  but  as  seen  growing 
in  the  nurseries  of  the  raisers  it  is  a  promising 
Rose,  its  habit  of  growth  being  better  than  the 
majority  of  the  K.  A.  Victoria  group. 

David  Harum  (E.  G.  Hill  and  Co.,  1904).— I 
think  we  can  do  without  this  Rose.  I  have  grown 
it  for  three  seasons  and  have  not  had  a  really 
flrst-clasB  flower. 

Dtuil  Oe  L'Compagnon  (Guillot,  1907). — 
Very  dark  purple  ;  those  who  like  the  shade 
should  grow  it,  but  it  does  not  appeal  to  me  ;  a 
good-sized  flower  of  fair  form. 

Dr.  O'Donel  Browne  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
1908).— A  very  Hybrid  Perpetual-like  Rose; 
DupuyJamain  improved  might  describe  it ;  colour 
carmine  rose,  good  round  petal ;  its  strongest 
feature  is  its  scent  ;  will  no  doubt  come  in  very 
useful  on  the  exhibition  table,  but  this  season 
has  not  suited  it  in  my  garden.  As  seen  in  the 
nurseries  of  the  raisers  for  several  years  past  it 
has  been  distinctly  promising.  It  was  awarded 
a  gold  medal  at  the  1908  autumn  show  of  the 
National  Rose  Society. 

Dora  (William  Paul  and  Son,  1906).— Another 
Hybrid  Perpetual-like  Hybrid  Tea.  Both  of 
these  last-mentioned   Roses    might    have    been 


OLKARIA    NITIDA    IN    MR. 


called  Hybrid  Perpetuals  if  appear- 
ances go  for  anything  ;  but  Roses 
often  are  not  what  they  seem,  and 
both  Roses  we  are  assured  are  of 
Hybrid  Tea  parentage.  Silvery 
blush  in  colour  ;  a  large,  round 
flower  that  would  have  delighted 
the  exhibitor  of  the  eighties,  but 
does  not  appeal  so  much  to  present- 
day  ideas,  although  I  personally 
think  it  would  be  a  great  mistake 
if  all  Roses  were  to  be  of  exactly 
the  same  type  ;  with  high-pointed 
centres.  Thia  Rose  sliould  make 
a  fine  pot  pliint,  as  the  flowers  last 
a  long  while. 

Dorothy  {H.ngh  Dickson  and  Sons, 
Belfast,  1905). — I  believe  another 
Caroline  Testout  seedling  ;  colour 
pale  flesh  ;  a  useful  garden  Rose 
with  all  the  characteristics  of  its 
parent.  What  a  gradation  of 
colour  could  now  be  obtained  using 
Caroline  Testout  seedlings  only, 
from  the  almost  white  of  Admiral 
Dewey  through  all  the  shades  of 
flesh,  blush  pink,  pale  pink,  pink, 
bright  pink,  carmine,  almost  into 
the  reds.  It  would,  at  any  rate, 
be  an  interesting  bed,  if  not  a 
beautiful  one. 

Dorothy  Page  ■  Roberts  (Alex. 
Dickson  and  Sons,  1907).— This  a 
a  grand  garden  Rose  for  those 
who  like  big  but  few  petals 
rather  than  many  of  them.  For 
table  decoration  few  Roses 
are  more  charming.  My  flowers 
this  year,  possibly  owing  to  the 
continued  rain,  have  not  had  so 
much  of  the  coppery  tint  in  them 
that  was  so  marked  a  feature  of  the  flowers 
last  year.  Excess  of  moisture  and  lack  of  sun 
have  deepened  the  colour  of  all  Roses  to  a 
marked  degree  this  year  ;  sometimes  it  is  a  gain, 
but  in  this  particular  instance  it  is  not  so.  A 
very  beautiful  Rose  that  I  can  strongly  recom- 
mend, but  of  no  use  to  the  exhibitor.  A  gold 
medal  Rose  of  the  National  Rose  Society. 

Ecarlate  (Boytard,  1907).— This  stands  out 
solely  by  reason  of  its  colour.  The  flower  is  on 
the  small  side,  with  not  many  petals.  The  finest 
colour  of  any  of  the  scarlet  Roses  ;  should  make 
a  fine  bedder,  especially  if  effect  is  required  from 
a  distance.  Very  free  flowering  and  not  a 
vigorous  grower  ;  apparently  mildew-proof,  the 
drawback  to  Marquise  de  Salisbury,  which  has 
suffered  badly  this  year  from  this  cause. 

Elizabeth  Barnes 
(Alex.  Dickson  and 
Sons,  1907).— 
An  other  fine- 
coloured  Rose  when 
you  can  get  it,  but 
the  flowers  reach  n 
certain  stage  and 
then  come  a  bad 
shape.  As  shown  by 
the  raisers,  it  is 
unique  in  its  shade 
of  deep  copper 
salmon ;  possibly  the 
season  has  had  some- 
thing to  do  with  its 
bad  behaviour.  Il 
is  a  Rose  well  worth 
taking  a  little 
trouble  with,  so  I 
shall  try  again  with 
Elizabeth  Barnes. 

Elaine  (William 
Paul  and  Son,  1908). 
—This  is,  I  think, 
a  good  Rose.  It 
has  been  well  ex- 
hibited by  the 
oumblkton's  gabdbn.  raisers    on    many 


'^\^^- 


KKIPIIOriA    NORTHt.E    IX    IMK.    CUMBLETONS   GARDEN. 


occasions,  and  has  received  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society's  award  of  merit.  Similar  in 
colour  to  White  Maman  Cochet,  it  reflexes  its 
petals  in  the  same  pleasing  manner,  and  with 
high  culture  should  be  good  enough  for  the 
exhibitor. 

Frau  Alfred  Mauthner  (P.  Lambert,  1907). 
It  is  early  perhaps  to  condemn  this  Rose,  as  I 
have  grown  it  for  one  season  only ;  it  is  sweetly 
scented,  of  robust  growth  rather  than  vigorous  ; 
colour,  silvery  rose  with  a  deeper  centre.  It 
is  free  enough  for  garden  purposes,  but  I  cannot 
say  I  am  struck  with  it.  We  have  so  many 
good  Roses  now  that  inferior  kinds  are  not 
wanted. 

Purley.  Herbert  E.  Moltnbux. 


IRISH     NOTES. 

Mr.    W.    E.    Gumbleton's    Garden. 

A  BOUT  a  five  miles'   drive  from   Queens- 
/%  town  is  the  residence  of  Mr.  W.   E. 

/  ^  Gumbleton,  situated  on  one  of  the 
/  \  estuaries  of  Cork  Harbour,  known  as 
/  ^  the  East  Ferry.  Belgrove  enjoys  an 
ideal  climate,  and  has  for  a  long 
time  been  known  as  the  home  of  many  rare 
plants.  A  grass  garden  near  the  house  contains 
numerous  small  beds  filled  with  the  newer  kinds 
of  annuals  and  perennials ;  the  boundaries  are 
made  by  hedges  of  Rosa  rugosa  varieties  and  by 
a  wall  covered  with  choice  plants.  Here  the 
owner  commences  by  pointing  out  a  fine  specimen 
of  Freylinia  cestroides,  said  to  be  a  good  plant 
with  terminal  bunches  of  yellow  flowers  in  such 
places  as  the  Riviera,  but  the  Irish  climate  will 
not  induce  it  to  flower,  so  its  doom  has  been 
pronounced.  Along  the  wall  were  the  white- 
flowered  Corrca  magnifica,  Crossosoma  californica 
and  Bowkeria  gerardiana  ;  the  latter  is  the 
Calceolaria  Shrub  of  South  Africa.  Tricuspidaria 
lanceolata  (10  feet  high)  had  been  flowering 
profusely,  while  the  the  white  T.  dependens  and 
the  new  Senecio  Heotori  were  growing  strongly. 


October  2,  1909.J 


IHE    GARDEN. 


481 


Near  by  was  the  beautiful  Dendromeoon  rigidum, 
with  its  glaucous  foliage  and  bright  yellow  Poppy- 
like flowers ;  a  point  strongly  in  its  favour  is 
that  from  springtime  until  late  autumn  it  is  rarely 
without  a  few  flowers. 

One  of  the  rarest  and  most  striking  plants  in 
flower  at  that  time  (July  6)  was  Olearia  insignis, 
a  native  of  New  Zealand.  Probably  the  speci- 
men is  one  of  the  best  in  Britain  growing  in  the 
open.  It  was  2  feet  high  and  the  same  in  width, 
and  was  flowering  freely.  This  distinct  Olearia 
has  thiok,  leathery  leaves  6  inches  long  by 
4  inches  broad.  When  young  the  stem  and 
leaves  are  covered  with  a  dense  felt  of  white 
hairs,  but  as  the  leaves  get  older  they  lose  this 
covering  on  the  upper  surface.  The  white  Daisy- 
like flowers,  which  are  shown  in  the  illustration, 
are  produced  singly  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves  and 
are  .3  inches  in  diameter.  The  beautiful  Mutisia 
deourrens  was  climbing  and  flowering  through 
the  branches  of  Fremontia  oalifornica ;  it  is 
unfortunate  that  these  two  showy  plants  are  so 
capricious,  the  former  so  hard  to  establish  and 
the  latter  so  ready  to  die  when  established. 

In  one  of  the  garden  beds  a  good  branching 
plant  of  Salvia  dichroa,  5  feet  high,  stood  out 
prominently.  This  species,  with  large  blue  and 
white  flowers,  is  one  of  the  showiest  of  the  genus 
when  well  grown.  In  another  bed  the  new 
Lupinus  polyphyllus  roseus  was  also  flowering 
well  ;  though  a  distinct  shade  of  colour,  it  does 
not  suit  everyone's  taste.  Dahlia  odorata 
Bruanti  and  D.  arborea  were  planted  out  and 
making  good  progress,  while  a  bed  of  that 
glorious  orange  annual,  Dimorphotheca  auranti- 
aca,  was  beginning  to  make  a  display.  Other 
rarities  out  of  flower  included  a  good  clump  cjf 
Anemone  Fannini,  TroUius  ranunculoides  and 
the  yellow  Pseonia  Mlokosewitschii. 

As  one  would  expect,  shrubs  thrive  wonder- 
fully well  at  Belgrove  ;  Mr.  Gumbleton's  name 
will  be  recalled  to  many  people  as  being  the 
first  to  flower  Buddleia  Colvillei  in  the  year  1S91. 
The  plant  is  now  about  20  feet  high  and  was 
producing  trusses  of  its  beautiful  pink  flowers. 
On  a  wall  was  a  fine  plant  of  Feijoa  sellowiana 
in  flower.  This  half-hardy  shrub  is  related  to 
the  Guava  ;  it  has  bright,  showy  flowers  ;  the 
petals  are  crimson  on  the  inside  and  fawn 
coloured  outside.  The  numerous  prominent 
stamens  are  bright  crimson,  and  the  fruits  when 
produced  most  highly  perfumed  and  delicious. 
A  remarkably  good  specimen  of  Daphniphyllum 
raaoropodum  or  glaucesoens  was  18  feet  by 
12  feet  through,  and  Castanopsis  ohrysophylla 
was  10  feet  high,  producing  a  crop  of  prickly 
fruits.  A  tree  of  Juglans  sieboldiana  (ailanti- 
folia)  was  also  producing  a  few  fruits  on  pendu- 
lous racemes  bearing  two  to  six  Nuts  each. 

Along  a  terrace  was  a  fiine  collection  of  the 
hybrids  and  species  of  Kniphofias,  and  here  one 
came  upon  a  plant  in  flower  which  is  seldom 
seen  in  the  open.  It  was  a  fine  and  telling 
mass  of  Beschorneria  deoosteriana,  a  native  of 
Mexico  belonging  to  the  Amaryllidaceae.  The 
tallest  of  the  six  flower-stems  was  10  feet  high, 
springing  from  a  basal  rosette  of  lanceolate 
leaves.  The  inflorescence  was  a  panicle,  the 
main  stem  bearing  large  crimson  bracts,  in  the 
axils  of  which  appeared  the  lateral  branches  ; 
the  laterals  bore  olusters  of  flowers  in  twos  and 
threes,  and  the  flowers  were  pendulous,  green, 
and  reddish  in  colour. 

The  Gyneriums  (now  called  Cortaderias)  had 
formed  grand  masses  ;  several  good  variegated 
forms  were  to  be  seen,  such  as  C.  Weaser- 
linghi  and  C.  Stosnackeri.  The  finest  of 
the  Pampas  Grasses,  C.  jubata,  was  represented 
by  a  good  specimen ;  unfortunately,  it  is  the 
least  hardy  of  the  genus,  coming  as  it  does  from 
Chimborazo.  Under  glass  were  several  inter- 
esting plants,  such  as  the  curious  Parsonsia 
albiflora  (Apocynacese)  with  leaves  of  two  differ- 
ent shapes,  also  Hillebrandia  sandwioensis,  one 
of  the  few  plants  which  is  related  to  the 
Begonia ;  it  differs  botanically  in  having  both 
petals  and  sepals.  C.  F.  Ball. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


FKUIT    NOTES. 

OTES  ON  CORDONS.— Our  French 
friends  and  neighbours  have  always 
been  keenly  alive  to  the  beauty  and 
utility  of  a  well-trained  fruit  tree, 
and  many  of  the  forms  which  we  now 
find  so  extremely  valuable  and  so 
justifiably  popular  originated  in  France.  Among 
them  all,  however,  none  has  been  of  greater 
value  to  British  growers  than  the  cordon,  which, 
correctly,  of  course,  a  single-stemmed  plant,  as 
the  name  clearly  implies,  has  undergone  certain 
changes  and  extensions  until  we  now  have  double 


N 


A   TRIPLE  Ofl  GRIDIRON  OOEDON  PBAR  DOYENNE 
DU  COMICE. 

and  triple  stemmed  trees  that  are  sometimes 
termed  "pitchforks"  and  "gridirons"  respec- 
tively, but  are  more  often  named  multiple 
cordons. 

For  their  special  positions  there  can  be  no 
question  as  to  the  excellence  of  trees  either  with 
one,  two  or  three  stems,  since  all  alike  can  be 
easily  grown  and  will,  under  proper  treatment, 
produce  such  fruits  as  cannot  be  excelled,  and 
rarely  equalled,  by  any  other  form  of  trained 
tree  grown  in  our  gardens.  Can  one  wonder,  then, 
at  the  immense  appreciation  in  which  cordons  are 
held,  or  that  the  demand  for  information  upon 
their  eorreet  management  should  be  incessant  ? 
There  are,  doubtless,  thousands  of  gardens  in  the 
country  where  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to 
have  any  fruit  trees  were  it  not  for  the  convenient 
cordon,   which,   given  a  stout  fence  or  a   wall 


6  feet  or  more  in  height  and  good  soil  for  the 
roots,  will  yield  crops  season  after  season 
with  a  regularity  that  is  as  pleasing  as  it  is 
desirable. 

For  covering  profitably  our  fences  and  walls  we 
can  have  Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  Gooseberries, 
and  Red  and  White  Currants  in  single-stemmed 
plants  for  the  flat  portions  of  the  wall  or  in 
double  or  treble-stemmed  form  for  narrow  or 
wide  buttresses,  according  to  fancy  or  con- 
venience, or,  if  it  is  preferred,  all  can  be  in 
multiple  form ;  but,  generally  speaking,  these 
latter  plants  demand  rather  more  skill  and  care 
than  those  with  one  stem.  An  excellent  example 
of  a  gridiron  or  triple-stemmed  cordon  is  shown 
in  the  accompanying  illustration.  The  photo- 
graph was  taken  a  few  weeks  ago  in  the  nurseries 
of  Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co. ,  and  the  tree  was 
carrying  a  splendid  crop  of  fruits  of  that  most 
excellent  of  dessert  Pears,  Doyenn^  du  Comice. 
There  is  no  reason  whatever  why  equally  satis- 
factory plants  should  not  be  found  in  all  gardens, 
provided,  of  course,  that  there  is  the  indispens- 
able fence  or  wall  for  training. 

It  is  proposed,  in  view  of  the  importance  of  this 

form  of  tree  to  the  amateur,  to  devote  one  or  two 

columns  of  "Fruit  Notes "  exclusively  to  them, 

and  it  will,  perhaps,  be  wise  te  commence  with 

selections  of  varietie?,  as  orders  for  trees  should 

be  placed  forthwith,  so  that  there  shall  be  an 

absolute  certainty  of  a  share  of  the  best  instead 

of  a  share  of  the  leavings,  which  may  come  to 

the  man  who   does  not  think  of  coming  to  a 

decision  until  the  end  of  the  planting  season. 

Let  it  be  said  at  onoe  that  those  who  place  their 

orders  with  any  of  the  highly  reputable  firms  who 

advertisein  The  Garden  may,  with  perfect  safety, 

leave  the  selection  of  the  sorts  entirely  in  their 

hands,  since  they  will  assuredly  spare  no  efforts 

to  give  complete  satisfaction,  as  they  are  jealous 

of  their  fair  fame  and  would  not  knowingly  do 

anything    to    tarnish    it.     The    purchaser  who 

decides  upon  this  course  should  state  plainly  his 

requirements  in  regard  to  number  of  trees  and 

varieties,  and  also  give  full  information  as  to  the 

situation  of  the  garden  and  the   aspect  of  the 

wall  which  it  is  proposed  to  clothe.    It  is,  further, 

desirable   to  describe  the  soil,  but  this  is  not 

imperative,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the  man 

who  wants  to  succeed  when  everything  else  is 

favourable  will  not  let  himself  be  beaten  beoause 

the   soil   does  not  happen  to  be  ideal  for  fruit 

culture.     If  this  is  his  only  trouble,  he  will  set 

upon  the  task  of  either  importing  a  compost  that 

is  suitable  with  which  to  surround  the  roots,  or 

he  will  do  what  is  probably  just  as  good  in  the 

long  run — improve   the   natural   medium  of  the 

garden ;    the    latter    will   take  a    little   longer 

and  the  trees  may  be   a    rather  greater    time 

coming  into  full  crop,  but  the  eventual  results 

will    be    eminently    satisfactory    to     everyone 

concerned.      In  my  next   notes  I  will  give  the 

selections.  Fruit-grower. 

POT  VINES  FOE  TABLE  DECORA- 
TION. 
At  the  present  time,  when  novelties  are  so  much 
sought  after  and  so  keenly  appreciated,  it  is  not 
surprising  that  we  sometimes  read  of  elaborate 
banquets  at  which  we  are  told  that  the  fruit  eaten 
at  dessert  was  presented  to  the  guests  in  a  growing 
state  on  miniature  trees.  But  however  remark- 
able or  difficult  at  first  thought  this  may  appear 
to  many  readers,  in  the  case  of  miniature  Vines 
it  is  really  a  very  simple  matter,  which  may 
easily  be  accomplished  by  anyone  who  has  even  a 
small  cool  vinery  at  his  disposal. 

There  are  several  methods  by  which  such  plants 
may  be  produced,  but  I  will  confine  myself  to 
describing  the  method  which  I  practise  here,  and 
which  invariably  gives  satisfactory  results.  In  a 
midseason  vinery  of  large  dimensions  (the  occu- 
pants of  which  are  of  considerable  age)  to  sustain 
vigour  we  frequently  run  up  new  rods,  so  that  at 
least  one  can  be  removed  every  two  or  three 
years.     Having  selected  the  rod  of  some  years' 


482 


THE     GARDEN. 


[October  2,  1909. 


standing  which  is  to  be  taken  from  the  roof  to 
make  room  for  its  younger  brother,  it  is  brought 
down  parallel  with,  and  about  2  feet  from,  the  front 
lights,  and  about  3  feet  6  inches  from  the  roof 
glass,  the  rod  then  being  firmly  tied  to  a  staging, 
taking  care  to  have  the  spurs  on  one  side  pointing 
in  an  upward  direction.       At   pruning-time  all 
shoots  are  pruned  in  excepting  about  six  on  the 
upper  side  of  the  rod  ;   these  are  shortened  back 
to  about  18  inches  in  length,  taking  care  that 
the  top  bud  is  a  good  one.     Prior  to  the  Vine 
breaking   in    the   spring  a  sufficient  number  of 
5  inch    pots    are     selected,    the    holes    at    the 
bottom    being   slightly   enlarged, 
so    that    the    pieces    of     young 
wood  retained   pass  readily 
through  them,  the  pots  eventually 
resting  on  the  old  spur.     They 
are  then  filled  with  good   loam, 
rather  heavy  in  texture,  which  is 
made  firm. 

As  active  growth  commences 
the  soil  in  the  pot  is  kept  con- 
stantly moistened,  when  it  soon 
becomes  filled  with  roots.  A  neat 
stake  must  be  placed  in  the  centre 
of  the  pot,  to  which  the  miniature 
rod  must  be  firmly  tied.  As  the 
fruiting  shoots  develop  they  are 
also  loosely  looped  to  it.  These 
must  be  pinched  at  two  leaves 
beyond  the  bunch  and  the  berries 
thinned  in  the  usual  way.  I 
usually  allow  three  bunches  to 
each  small  Vine,  which  collec- 
tively weigh  about  ."ilb.  Of 
course,  more  than  three  shoots 
can  be  allowed  to  furnish  the  tree 
with  plenty  of  foliage.  These 
small  Vines  remain  attached  to 
the  parent  plant  until  the  fruit  is 
thoroughly  ripened  and  they  are 
required  for  use,  when  they  may 
be  cut  off  with  a  small  saw  out- 
side the  bottom  of  the  pot. 

The  shoots  may  now  be  tied 
and  pinched  to  make  the  Vines 
look  as  elegant  as  possible.  The 
soil  should  have  a  thorough  water- 
ing, afterwards  covering  it  with 
moss,  when  the  Vine  will  be  ready 
to  place  on  the  dinner-table.  We 
usually  place  these  miniature 
Vines  in  a  large  silver  bowl,  a 
saucer  with  a  little  water  in  it 
being  placed  underneath  the  pot, 
which  prevents  the  foliage 
suffering  from  the  heat  of  the 
room. 

The  advantages  of  growing 
pot  Vines  for  decoration  in  the 
manner  described  are  at  least 
of  a  twofold  character,  one  being 
that  of  turning  to  good  account 
a  rod  that  otherwise  would  be 
thrown  away,  and  the  other  is 
that  the  fruit  is  much  better 
fiaished  and  of  finer  quality 
than  when  grown  exclusively  in 
a  pot.  By  utilising  about  one- 
third  of  the  spurs  each  year  one 
rod  would  give  a  supply  of 
these  Vines  for  three  seasons. 
The  illustration  is  of  a  plant  produced  this 
season.  W.  H.  Wilson. 

Moor  Hall  Gardens,  Stourport. 

CHERRIKS  FOR  ORCHARDS. 
For  this  purpose  we  have  to  choose  compara- 
tively few  sorts,  and  such  as  will  be  profitable 
during  a  long  series  of  years,  for  the  life  of  a 
standard  Cherry  tree  may  be  a  hundred  years, 
except  in  the  case  of  the  Flemish  and  Kentish  Reds, 
May  Dukes,  and  like  sorts.  In  planting  a  profitable 
Cherry  orchard  place  trees  of  the  larger  growing 
varieties  at  3tj  feet  apart,  and  plant  between  each 
either  a  Flemish,  Morello,  or  May  Di'ke  variety. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

NOTES    ON    EARLY    TULIPS. 

PRINCE  DE  LIGNY  is  a  tall  and 
particularly  graceful  yellow  Tulip  for 
any  position  out  of  doors  where 
soldier-like  regularity  is  not  requisite. 
It  has  the  same  beautiful  vase-shaped 
flower  that  characterises  some  of  the 
Cottage  section,  such  as  La  Merveille  and 
Picotee.        In     height,     too,    it     more    nearly 


approaches  them  than  the  majority  of  the  early 


A    POT   \INE  READY   FOR  THE   TABLE. 

section  generally  do.  As  a  rule,  I  do  not  care 
for  variegated-leaved  plants  which  have  coloured 
flowers.  Only  the  other  day  I  was  taken  to  see 
a  small  variegated-leaved  Nasturtium  with  red 
flowers.  It  had  the  same  effect  on  me  that  I 
imagine  an  organ  badly  out  of  tune  would  have 
on  an  organist.  The  exception  proves  the  rule, 
and  the  sight  of  a  beautiful  combination  of 
a  very  blue  Forget-me-not,  which  I  think  must 
have  been  "  dissitiflora,'"  with  some  variegated- 
leaved  Yellow  Prince  Tulips  always  comes  to  my 
mind  whenever  I  see  that  variety  in  a  list. 
What  tended  to  impress  me  was  the  fact  that 
the  cost  of  that  bed  was  far  beyond  my  means, 


variegated   Yellow  Prince  being  then  ever  so 
many  shillings  a  dozen,  whereas  now  it  may  be 
bought  for  a   few  pence.      Two    very  reliable 
Tulips  for  bedding  are  Dusart  (red)  and   Mon 
Tresor  (golden   yellow).     This  latter   variety  is 
an  even  and   regular  grower,  and  valuable  for 
positions   where   such   adjuncts    are    necessary. 
The  special  characteristic  that  makes  Dusart  so 
valuable  is  the  unchangeableuess  of  its  colouring. 
It  is  no  "  change  coat."     In  early  life  and  in  its 
last  days   it  has  still  the  same  deep,  rich  red 
colouring.     Globe  de  Rigaut  is  a  handsome,  tall- 
growing,  early  variety  for  pots  of  the  "  broken  " 
or    "rectified"    type   of    flower. 
Anyone   who    appreciates    these 
old-fashioned  favourites  will  like 
it.     The  ground  colour  is  white, 
and  it  is  flamed  with  pale  violet. 
As  it   is    an    easily  grown    and 
reliable  plant,  I  can  confidently 
recommend  it.     Couleur  Cardinal 
is  a  variety  that  always    looks 
exceedingly  handsome.      If    the 
deep,  rich  crimson  of  its  petals, 
with  their  plum-shaded  exterior, 
is  of   a  deeper  shade   than   His 
Eminence's    robes,    no    Cardinal 
could  bear  himself  with  greater 
dignity.    I  recently  learned  some- 
thing of  its  history.      Dear  old 
Mr.  G.   H.  van  Waveren  bought 
it  at  an  auction  sale  fifty-three 
years   ago,  and   when   he   got  it 
home    he   incurred   the   parental 
displeasure  because  of   his  rash 
investment.       At    first    it    must 
have  appeared   that   the    father 
was  right  and  the  son  wrong,  for 
it    would    not    sell.      To-day    I 
expect  his  firm  would  be  glad  of 
as   many  as  he  could  buy  at  a 
reasonable  figure.   Unfortunately, 
it  increases  a  good  deal  slower 
than  most  Tulips  do,  and  so  the 
price  never  gets  much  lower  than 
Is-  fid.  a  dozen. 

A  change  is  pleasing  in  most 
things,  and  for  thoEe  who  wish  to 
vary  the  stock  varieties  of  early 
Tulips  I  would  suggest  the  follow- 
ing as  being  departures  from  the 
usual  types  and  colours:  (1)  La 
Remarquable,  with  long,  pointed 
petals  of  a  reddish  maroon  with 
a  pink  edge.  (2)  Potter,  a  flower 
of  an  exceptional  shade  of  reddish 
purple.  I  do  not  think  that  there 
IS  anything  like  it  among  early 
Tulips.  (3)  Cerise  Gris-de-lin, 
which  is  a  beautiful  combination 
of  a  sort  of  faded  cherry  red  and 
ochre  yellow.  It  is  the  unbroken 
form  of  Spondonck.  (4)  Aims 
of  Leiden,  a  robust,  strong  grower 
whose  solid-looking  petals  are 
tipped  with  rose.  Two  favourite 
whites  with  me  are  Princess 
Helen  (single)  and  White  Murillo 
(double).  This  last  is  the  beau 
ideal  of  what  in  my  opinion  a 
double  Tulip  should  be.  Those 
who  happened  to  have  read  my 
Tulip  notes  last  year  will  say  I 
am  taking  coals  to  Newcastle  when  I  once  more 
write  about  Prince  of  Austria.  It  is  a  great 
Tulip.  Its  amphibious  character  (in  so  much  as 
it  can  live  and  flourish  just  as  well  in  pots  as  in 
the  open  ground),  its  splendid  constitution  and 
the  delightful  colour  of  its  flowers  mark  it  out 
as  the  one  Tulip  we  should  never  omit  from  our 
bulb  merchant's  order.  Scarlet  Mammoth  is  a 
variety  that  is  very  seldom  seen  in  catalogues. 
I  have  grown  large  beds  of  it  for  the  past 
three  years,  and  cannot  understand  why  it 
seems  to  be  so  very  little  known.  It  has  a 
dwarf  habit,  and  in  olden  days  would  have  been 
one  of  Ray's  Mediae  or  Middle  Flowering  Tulips. 


October  2,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


48S 


Une  must  have  a  strong  eye  to  look  at  it  for 
long.  I  have  tried  it  for  pot-work,  but  I  can 
only  say  my  efforts  have  been  a  dismal  failure. 
I  am  glad  to  be  able  to  say  that  my  favourite 
pot  variety,  Jenny,  is  becoming  more  known. 
People  who  think  or  say  that  Tulips  have  no 
scent  should  buy  half-a-dozen  and  try  them. 
One  of  the  things  I  look  forward  to  each  year  is 
my  pot  of  Jenny  on  the  breakfast-table.  I  like 
to  get  a  whiff  of  the  sweet,  clean  perfume  the 
first  thing  in  a  morning  when  I  enter  my  dining- 
room.  The  plant  does  not  grow  very  high,  and 
has  perfectly  shaped  flowers  of  a  beautiful  soft 
cherry  red.  Joseph  Jacob. 


GENTIANA   VEITCHIORUM. 

This  is  the  corrected  name  of  the  new  Chinese 
species  of  Gentiana  which  we  referred  to  in  our 
issue  of  September  11  (page  451)  under  the 
specific  name  of  G.  ornata,  by  which  it  was 
exhibited  and  received  an  award  of 
merit  on  August  31.  The  reason  of 
the  change  is  that  already  there  are 
two  widely  distinct  species  figured 
in  the  Botanical  Magazine,  and  to 
which  the  specific  name  of  ornata 
has  been  given ;  hence  it  has  been 
decided  by  no  less  an  authority 
than  Mr.  Botting  Hemsley,  with 
the  full  materials  before  him,  that 
it  would  be  unwise  to  attach  the 
name  ornata  to  a  third  species. 
The  plant  obviously  has  affinity 
with  G.  ornata,  and  to  our  former 
description  we  give  Mr.  Hemsley's 
description  as  published  in  the 
Gardener's  Chronicle  for  Septem- 
ber 11:  "  (.}.  veitehiorum  is  a 
larger,  more  robust  plant  than  G. 
ornata,  with  relatively  broad  obtuse 
leaves,  larger  flowers,  with  broader 
corolla  -  lobes  and  very  broad, 
toothed  folds  between  them.  The 
flowers  are  of  an  intense  blue  with 
light  longitudinal  bands  on  the 
outside. "  As  a  Rose  by  any  other 
name  would  be  just  as  sweet,  so 
will  this  lovely  Gentian  be  just  as 
beautiful  under  the  new  name  as 
the  old,  while  this  new  Gentian 
will  assist  to  permanently  com- 
memorate one  of  the  many  phases 
of  plant- collecting  in  which  Messrs. 
Veitoh  have  engaged. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

TREES   AND  SHRUBS   IN   NEW 

ZEALAND. 

Some  th.\t  will  Grow  in  the  Bbitish  Isles. 

IN  your  issue  of  July  12  I  see  that  Mr.  C.  F. 
Ball  writes  from  Ireland  about  the  native 
Kowhai  (Sophora  tetraptera),  so  I  thought 
that  perhaps  you  would  like  a  few  notes 
on  some  of  our  beautiful  native  shrubs  and 
trees.  The  Sophora  he  speaks  of  is  very 
much  valued  here  on  account  of  the  hardness  of 
its  wood,  and  also  for  its  lasting  qualities  when 
put  in  the  ground,  rather  than  for  its  flowers 
and  foliage.  There  is  another  variety,  S.  t. 
grandiflora,  which  is  much  dwarfer,  but  gives  a 
much  finer  display  of  bloom.  The  flowers  are 
larger  than  the  former,  but  the  tree  itself  rarely 
attains  a  height  of  more  than  12  feet  or  14  feet. 
Clianthus  puniceus  is  regarded  by  the  Maoris 


Horopito  the  natives  call  it.  It  makes  excellent 
hedges,  and  has  a  lot  of  yellow  green  flowers, 
which  are  succeeded  by  small,  bright  crimson 
fruits,  which  alone  makes  it  worth  a  place  in  any 
garden.  There  are  also  many  varieties  of  the 
Ake  Ake  (Olearia),  which  make  good  hedges  and 
can  be  cut  as  often  as  one  likes.  The  Pohutu- 
kawa  (Metrosideros  lucida)  or  Christmas  Tree 
is  the  most  beautiful  when  in  flower.  It  must 
be  grown  near  the  seashore  to  bring  it  to 
perfection. 

We  have  about  eight  kinds  of  Clematis,  which 
grow  everywhere  and  are  a  mass  of  blossom  in 
the  early  months  of  spring.  The  native  Manuka, 
or  Ti-tree,  is  a  very  beautiful  shrub,  and  when  in 
blossom  is  covered  with  white  and  pink  flowers. 
In  some  pirts  it  grows  so  thickly  that  special 
mowing-machines  have  been  made  to  mow  it  down 
to  burn  it.  From  time  to  time  I  have  seen  pictures 
and  articles  in  your  paper  on  the  New  Zealand 
Flax  (Phormium  tenax),  but  you  have  no  idea  of 


THE  PERGOLA  AT  MONT- 
GREENAN  HOUSE  GAR 
DENS,  AYRSHIRE. 

At  Montgreenan  House,  Ayrshire,  ' 
the  residence  of  Sir  James  Bell. 
Bart. ,  there  can  be  seen  a  splendid 
example  of  a  pergola.  The  accom- 
panying illustration  is  from  a  photograph  taken 
when  the  flowers  were  in  full  bloom,  and  will 
give  readers  some  idea  of  the  beauty  of  this 
structure.  The  supports  are  made  of  wood  and 
are  covered  with  Roses  and  other  climbers. 
The  Roses  used  are  Dorothy  Perkins,  Lidy 
Gay,  Minnehaha,  Wedding  Bells,  Sweetheart, 
Hiawatha  and  similar  varieties,  and  as  all  are 
rapid  growers  they  soon  cover  a  lot  of  space. 
Other  hardy  trailers  are  introduced  here  and 
there,  such  as  Clematises,  Loniceras  and 
Aristoloehias.  These  give  variety  and  break  up  the 
rosy  efifect.  The  borders  on  either  side  are  filled 
with  herbaceous  plants  and  are  edged  with  Pinks 
along  the  front.  These  hang  over  on  the  grass 
walk  running  up  the  centre,  and  when  in  bloom 
present  a  pleasing  sight.  They  are  backed  by 
lines  of  Lilium  candidum,  which  are  well  shown 
in  the  illustration.  In  the  centre  of  the  walk  can 
be  seen  an  ancient  Roman  well-head.  It  contains 
a  Water  Lily,  and  is  quite  in  harmony  with  its 
rustic  surroundings.  G.  A.  Grant. 


THE    PEROOLA,    WITH    WHITE   LILIES,   AT   iMONTGKBENAN   HODSE  GARDENS,    AYRSHIRE. 


as  a  variety  of  Kowhai,  and  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  Sophora  they  call  it  Kowhai  N'gutu  Kaka 
(the  Parrot-beak  Kowhai).  Clianthus  albus  is  a 
hybrid  from  the  latter,  I  think.  There  are 
many  tales  told  of  the  way  the  plant  first  got 
here.  Some  siy  that  the  natives  brought  it 
with  them  when  they  first  came.  The  Maoris 
themselves  say  that  a  French  ship  was  wrecked 
near  Auckland  and  that  the  only  thing  that 
came  ashore  was  a  box  of  seed,  which  they  broke 
open,  and  from  it  sprang  C.  puniceus.  It  was 
very  much  valued  by  them,  and  has  been 
distributed  all  over  both  of  the  islands. 

There  are  hundreds  of  flowers  and  shrubs  here 
that  I  could  tell  you  of  which  would,  I  am  sure, 
grow  very  well  in  England.  The  native  Veronicas 
are  very  beautiful  and  hardy.  They  range  in 
size  from  6  inches  to  20  feet.  The  flowers  on 
some  of  them  are  from  6  inches  to  9  inches  in 
length,  and  are  from  the  very  darkest  purple  to 
pure  white  in  colour.  The  native  Pepper  Tree 
(Drimys  axillaris)  is  very  beautiful  in  a  garden 


the  beauty  of  this  plant  in  its  own  country.  Up 
on  the  Waioru  Plains  about  Christmas-time  one 
can  see  acres  and  acres  of  this  plant  in  flower. 
There  are  white,  red,  spotted  and  all  shades  of 
yellow  growing  side  by  side.  Then  the  leaves 
are  all  shades  of  colour ;  some  have  yellow  stripes 

.  down  them,  some  black  and  so  on.  When  the 
native  bush  is  out  down,  aplant  called  Tupurupuru 
(Solanum  avicular)  springs  up ;  it  is  covered  with 
violet  flowers,  which  are  succeeded  by  green  and 
red  berries  ;  the  frost  damages  this  plant. 

Now,  before  I  close,  I  must  say  how  much  I 
look  forward  to  The  Garden  every  week  and  to 
the  articles  in  it.  I  am  an  amateur  gardener  in  a 
small  way,  and  have  about  a  quarter  of  an  acre 
under  cultivation,  with  a  small  piece  of  native 
bush  in  the  background.  I  have  about  fifty 
Roses,  of  which  I  am  proud.  My  Dahlias 
(Cactus)  are  thought  a  great  deal  of  here,  and  I 
have  won  the  local  championship  with  them  two 

.  years  in  succession.  Frank  Mason, 

'      Whakaronga,  New  Zealand. 


484 


THE   gaede:n. 


(October  2,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GAKDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

F 'SLOWER  GARDEN.— During  ordinary 
winters,  when  there  are  no  very 
4  severe  frosts,  Violet  plants  in  outside 
borders  flower  freely  and  afford  a 
great  deal  of  pleasure  to  the  cultivator. 
The  blossoms  are  small  and  much 
trampling  down  of  soil  is  often  necessitated  when 
they  are  gathered.  This  continual  trampling  on 
the  soil  between  the  rows  of  plants  is  very  bad 
for  the  latter,  and  must  be  avoided  as  much  as 
possible.  At  the  present  time  it  is  advisable  to 
cut  off  all  runners  from  the  parent  plants,  to 
remove  all  weeds,  and  then  hoe  the  surface  soil 
lightly  and  forthwith  put  on  a  good  mulch  of 
rich  soil  and  rotted  manure  mixed.  Thus  the 
best  possible  will  have  been  done  for  the  well- 
being  of  the  plants  throughout  the  winter  months. 
1  )o  all  this  work  on  a  fine  day  when  the  ground 
is  comparatively  dry.  Ivies  may  be  planted  now. 
There  are  many  varieties,  all  having  a  beauty  of 
their  own,  and  where  it  is  found  necessary  to 
cover  some  unsightly  fence  in  a  oool  north,  north- 
west or  north-east  aspect,  or  even  in  a  south  one, 
the  Ivy  will  prove  a  really  serviceable  plant. 
Well  grown  Ivy  always  looks  cleaner  and  brighter 
than  that  which  is  grown  in  very  unsuitable  soil. 
The  plants  thrive  in  a  soil  in  which  some  old 
mortar  rubble  has  been  mixed.  The  leaves  from 
the  trees  are  now  falling  ;  but  autumn  in  the 
flower  garden  is  a  very  pleasant  season  when  every- 
thing is  done  to  prevent  real  untidiness.  Clean 
borders  and  sweep  lawns  regularly  every  week. 

Vegetable  Garden.  —  In  some  gardens  the 
autumn-sown  Spinach  has  made  wonderfully 
good  progress,  and  no  error  must  be  made  now 
in  the  management  of  the  plants,  which  consists 
mainly  in  the  keeping  of  the  soil  free  from  weeds 
and  loosened  by  the  hoe,  and  also  in  the 
thinning-out  of  the  plants   to    prevent    undue 


I. — A  CAOLIFLOWBR  ROOTSTOCK  WITH  THE 
KOOTS  AFFECTED  BY  CLDr.  OR  ANIiURY 
DISEASE.        NOTE     HOW     THE     BOOTS     ARE 

SWOLLEN. 


crowding.  One  fine,  sturdy  plant  is  of  more 
value  than  three  weakly  ones.  New  Zealand 
Spinach  has  also  been  serviceable  this  autumn, 
and  in  order  that  the  utmost  may  be  made  of  the 
leaves,  it  would  be  wise  to  lay  some  dry  mats  on 
them  each  night  to  protect  them  from  frosts. 
The  leaves  of  Rhubarb  and  Seakale  which  have 
faded  must  be  cleared  from  the  ground,  but 
forcible  pulling  must  not  be  practised  ;  then  the 
crowns  will  be  well  ripened  for  forcing  later  on. 
Protect  any  late  Vegetable  Marrows  at  night, 
and  place  ripening  ones  intended  for  preserving 
in  a  cool,  dry  place— an  open  shed  or  early  vinery 
will  do. 

Fruit  Garden. — During  this  week  the  grease 
bands  should  be  put  on  the  trunks  of  fruit  trees 
to  prevent  the  wingless  moth  gaining  access  to 
the  branches.  Strips  of  cloth  should  be  well 
greased  with  cart  grease  or  with  carbolic  soap 
and  then  wrapped  in  several  folds  round  the 
stem  of  the  tree  about  1  foot  from  the  ground 
level.  I  may  also  mention  here  that  it  is  advis- 
able to  renew  the  greasing  of  the  bands  every 
month  until  next  May.  All  leaves  found  under 
the  fruit  trees  must  be  brushed  up  twice  every 
week  and  burned.  After  the  sweeping  rake  the 
surface  soil  with  a  sharp-toothed  iron  rake ;  in  this 
way  many  moths  will  be  destroyed.  If  there  are 
props  supporting  the  branches  of  the  trees, 
greased  bauds  must  be  put  on  them  too.  Continue 
ibe  careful  gathering  of  fruits  as  the  latter  ripen. 
It  is  very  unwise  to  gather  late  varieties  before 
Ihey  are  ripe,  as  they  will  not  keep  sound  long 
afterwards.  The  relabelling  of  fruit  trees  should 
also  be  done  now  where  it  is  found  that  the 
labels  are  unsatisfactory  ;  then  the  true  names 
will  be  retained. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Every  effort  must 
be  made  to  put  the  Violet  plants  in  frames 
where  this  work  has  not  as  yet  been  done  ;  and 
plants  that  are  already  getting  established  in  the 
frames  must  be  grown  hardily — that  is,  while 
there  is  an  absence  of  frost  and  fog  the  glass 
lights  should  be  kept  off.  Simply  remove  faded 
leaves  and  give  water  if  necessary.  The  newly 
housed  plants  of  Chrysanthemums  and  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  must  also  be  attended  to.  Ventilate 
freely  and  give  water  only  when  it  is  needed. 
Set  times  for  watering,  whether  the  plants 
require  any  or  not,  will  not  answer  a  good 
purpose.  Water  and  feed  in  the  early  part  of 
the  day.  B. 

CLUB  -  ROOT    IN    CAULIFLOWERS    AND 
OTHER    GREENS. 

The  disease  known  as  club-root,  club-foot,  finger- 
and-toe,  or  anbury,  is  one  of  the  most  trouble- 
some with  which  the  gardener  has  to  contend. 
It  is  prevalent  on  most  land  that  has  carried 
several  crops  of  Cabbages  or  other  greens  and 
has  not  received  frequent  dressings  of  lime,  but 
is  very  rarely  met  with  on  chalky  land.  It 
attacks  all  the  members  of  the  Cabbage  family, 
including  Cauliflowers,  Kale,  Brussels  Sprouts, 
Radishes,  Turnips  and  Swedes,  Wallflowers, 
Stocks,  Honesty  and  other  related  ornamental 
plants,  and  such  common  weeds  as  Shepherd's 
Purse  and  Charlock  or  Wild  Mustard. 

The  fungus  which  is  the  cause  of  the  disease 
is  known  as  Plasmodiophora  brassier'.  It  is  a 
very  minute  organism  and  has  a  rather  simple 
life-history.  The  spores  are  in  the  soil  and 
germinate  when  there  is  sufficient  warmth  and 
moisture,  a  tiny  particle  of  jelly-like  protoplasm 
issuing  from  the  spore.  This  little  living  speck,  if  it 
comes  In  oontact  with  delicate  newly  formed  cells 
of  oruoiferous  or  Cabbage  family  plants,  is  able 


to  make  its  way  through  their  walls  and  so  enter 
the  root  of  the  plant.  Once  it  finds  itself  within 
the  cells  of  the  root  where  food  is  abundant,  it 
begins  to  multiply  very  rapidly,  producing  other 
specks  like  itself.  Its  presence  irritates  the 
cells  of  its  host,  so  that  more  and  more  food  is 
sent  by  the  plant  to  the  spot  attacked,  and  a 
large  swelling  results,  many  of  the  cells  of  which 
are  filled  with  the  progeny  of  the  little  fungus 
which  first  invaded  the  root,  all  of  them  so  far 
in  the  jelly-like  form.  A  little  later  they 
separate  from  one  another,  and  each  surrounds 
itself  with  a  wall,  so  that  numerous  spores  are 


2. —A     NORMAL     AND     HBALTIIY     CAULIFLOWER 
ROOTSTOCK. 

produced.  When  the  root  decays  these  spores 
are  liberated  into  the  soil,  where  they  may  lie 
for  several  years. 

As  so  much  food  is  sent  by  the  plant  to  the 
root  to  feed  the  fungus  and  to  produce  the 
swelling,  its  above-ground  development  is  greatly 
interfered  with,  and  at  the  same  time  the  normal 
development  of  the  roots  is  checked,  so  that  the 
plant  suffers  all  round.  It  has  been  stated  that 
it  is  only  in  the  seedling  state  that  the  plant  ia 
liable  to  the  attack  of  the  fungus  ;  but,  although 
it  is  probably  most  sensitive  then,  we  have  good 
evidence  to  show  that  it  is  liable  to  attack  at 
any  period  of  its  growth.  It  is  therefore  obvious 
that  planting  of  Cabbages  and  their  allies  in 
ground  known  to  be  infected  should  be  avoided 
and  all  cruciferous  weeds  should  be  rigorously, 
kept  down.  All  plants  showing  symptoms  of 
swellings  on  the  roots  should  be  discarded  and 
burnt  at  the  time  of  transplanting.  If  any  are 
found  later,  their  roots  should  be  removed  as 
completely  as  possible  and  at  once  burned  (not 
fed  to  pigs,  &c.).  Quicklime  at  the  rate  of 
about  half  a  bushel  to  one  bushel  to  the  square 
rod  is  the  only  thing  that  can  be  at  all  depended 
upon  to  check  the  disease  when  onee  the  spores 
are  in  the  soil,  and  this  application  may  need 
repeating.  Fig.  I  shows  a  Cauliflower  root 
attacked  by  this  disease,  and  in  Fig.  2  a  normal 
rootstook  is  depicted.  Scientist. 


October  2,  1909.  | 


THE    GARDEN. 


485 


PISBUDDING    CARNATIONS. 
Now    that    the     beautiful     perpetual-flowering 
Carnations  are  being  so  largely  grown  for  the 
purpose  of  providing  flowers  during  the  winter 
months,  a  hint  to  beginners  regarding  disbudding 


3  — ox  THE  LEFr  A  DISBUDDED  f CARNATION  IS 
SHOWN,  AND  ON  THE  EIGHT  A  FLOWER 
STEM   NOT  DISBUDDED. 

to  produce  larger  flowers  will  not  be  out  of  place. 
Even  where  the  plants  are  not  grown  for  exhibi- 
tion, it  is  wise  to  disbud  during  the  winter,  as 
the  energy  of  the  plant  is  thus  concentrated  on 
a  few  blooms  which  are  then  the  more  likely  to 
open  well. 

On  the  left  of  Fig.  3  a  disbudded  flower-stem 
is  shown.  When  gathered  from  the  plant  for  the 
purpose  of  being  photographed  there  were  three 
buds  on  the  stem,  and  it  will  be  noticed  that 
these  have  been  reduced  to  one,  which  was, 
obviously,  the  uppermost.  On  the  right  a  similar 
stem  is  shown  before  disbudding  had  been  done. 
If  it  is  a  good  one,  the  uppermost  bud  is  the  best 
to  leave  ;  but  Ehould  it  have  been  damaged  in  any 
way,  select  the  next  beat,  and  out  or  pinch  away 
all  the  others  close  into  the  flower-stem.  The  buds 
that  are  to  come  away  should  be  removed  in  a 
small  state  and  before  they  get  as  large  as  those 
shown  on  the  right  of  the  illustration.  This 
disbudding  may  be  applied  to  all  types  of  Carna- 
tions with  equal  success,  and  will  make  a 
considerable  difference  in  the  size,  substance  and 
colour  of  the  blooms. 


of  Currant  bushes.  These  little  growths,  burst- 
ing through  the  bark  of  the  twigs,  consist  of  a 
number  of  threads  of  a  fungus  known  to  botanists 
as  Neotria  cinnabarina.  At  the  tip  of  every  one 
of  these  threads  small  cells  or  spores  are  pinched 
off,  each  capable  of  reproducing  the  fungus  if  it 
falls  upon  a  suitable  substance  on  which  to 
grow  and  have  a  sufficient  supply  of  water  and 
air  and  a  suitable  temperature.  Later  in  the 
season,  in  this  same  wartlike  growth,  tiny  flask- 
shaped  bodies  are  formed,  within  which  other 
spores  are  produced  of  a  difierent  shape  from 
those  produced  at  first ;  but,  like  them,  each 
capable,  under  suitable  conditions,  of  reproducing 
the  fungus.  The  spores  of  both  kinds  are  easily 
disseminated  by  wind  and  insects. 

Interesting  as  the  occurrence  of  different  forms 
of  fruit  and  the  sequence  of  changes  which  occur 
in  the  life  of  the  fungus  from  the  spore  to  the 
fruiting-time  are,  the  gardener,  naturally  and 
rightly,  desires  to  know  what  part  the  fungus 
plays  in  relationship  to  the  things  he  cherishes. 
Is  it,  in  this  restricted  sense,  useful  or  harmful? 

This  fungus  is  rather  strange  in  its  habits,  for 
when  the  spore  first  germinates  it  is  incapable  of 
attacking  living  tissues.  It  can  grow  only  upon 
dead  wood,  such  as  dead  twigs  of  Currant  or 
dead  branches  of  Hazel,  Chestnut,  Walnut, 
Lime  and  so  on.  When  once  it  has  gained  an 
entrance  into  this  dead  wood,  however,  its 
mycelium  (the  slender  threads  of  which  the  plant 
itself  consists)  are  able  to  spread  into  and  kill 
the  adjacent  living  tissues,  and  so  death  may  be 
carried  far  beyond  the  point  it  had  reached  before 
the  fungus  gained  a  foothold.  Its  fruit  is  formed 
only  upon  the  dead  tissue,  and  so  its  presence 
beyond  the  dead  part  may  be  quite  unsuspected. 

Thus  the  fungus,  from  the  point  of  view  of 
the  gardener  and  tree-lover,  is  to  be  kept  in 
check  as  far  as  possible.  It  is  plain  that  atten- 
tion must  be  directed  to  three  points.  (1)  It  i^ 
unwise  to  leave  dead  wood  lying  about  among 
trees  that  are  valued.  Such  wood,  especially  if 
it  shows  the  conspicuous  fruits  of  the  fungus,  is 
better  burned.  (2)  All  dead  and  dying  wood 
should  be  carefully  pruned  out  of  Currant  trees, 
and,  indeed,  of  all  trees,  for  this  is  the  part  first 
attacked    by    this    fungus    and    others    having 


PLANTING  BULBS  IN  GRASS. 
Narcissi,  Crocuses,  Snowdrops,  Jonquils,  Scillas 
and  similar  bulbs  look  very  charming  growing  in 
the  grass  under  trees,  near  shrubs,  on  banks  and  in 
valleys.  In  many  gardens  there  are  plots  that 
are  not  kept  in  the  neat  manner  that  a  lawn 
usually  is  ;  and  in  these  plots  many  or  only  a 
few  bulbs  may  be  grown,  according  to  the  wish 
of  the  cultivator.  Now,  when  bulbs  are  so  grown — 
that  is,  in  a  natural  way — the  mistake  of  formal 
planting  must  be  avoided.  Instead  of  having 
formal  groups,  we  should  have  trails  of  blossom 
in  the  grass  and  irregular-shaped  clusters  as 
well  as  isolated  specimens,  so  as  to  imitate  Nature 
as  much  as  possible.  It  is  false  economy  to  put 
in  weakly  or  unripe  bulbs,  because  such  would 
not  flower  in  the  positions  I  have  referred  to,  and 
it  would  take  a  long  time  to  get  them  strong  | 
enough  to  be  satisfactory.  Shamrock. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


THE   CORAL-SPOT  FUNGUS. 
EvBBYONB  must  be  familiar  with  the  small,  coral 
red,  wart-like  spots  so  common  upon  pieces  of 
dead  wood,  sueh  as  Pea  stakes  and  dead  branches 


4. — portions  of  disused  pea  sticks  ATTACKED 
BY   THE   COBAL-SPOT  FUNGUS. 

similar  habits.  (3)  All  pruning  should  be  carried 
out  so  that  the  wounds  made  will  heal  with  the 
greatest  possible  ease.  They  should  be  clean 
cuts,  made  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  so  that 
no  "snags"  are  left  beyond  a  bud.  Fig.  4 
shows  the  fruiting  bodies  of  this  fungus  on  a 
piece  of  Lime  tree  which  had  been  utilised  for 
sticking  Peas. 


Preparing  Beds  for  Bulbs. — Beds  of  bulbs 
look  very  charming  in  the  town  garden  in  spring, 
and  no  trouble  should  be  spared  in  getting  the 
beds  ready  for  the  bulbs  in  good  time.  It  is  not 
advisable  to  merely  clear  away  the  summer 
occupants  of  the  beds,  level  the  soil  on  the 
surface  and  then  put  in  the  bulbs.  In  a  few 
instances  where  the  soil  is  naturally  rich  and  in 
very  good  condition,  the  bulbs  may  be  put  in  as 
stated  with  every  prospect  of  success.  In  the 
ordinary  way,  however,  it  is  best  to  thoroughly 
dig  up  the  soil  and  mix  Eome  well-rotted  manure 
with  it,  and,  if  available,  a  small  quantity  of 
clean,  gritty  material  in  cases  where  the  soil  is  of 
a  clayey  nature.  In  small  gardens  where  the 
flower-beds  are  formed  near  to  trees  or  shrubs, 
the  roots  of  the  latter  permeate  the  soil  in  the 
borders,  and  if  they  are  left  in  they  would  rob 
the  bulbs  of  much  nourishment.  Therefore  it  is 
a  very  important  matter  that  all  roots  of  shrubs 
and  trees  be  cut  out  before  bulbs  are  planted. 
Where  surface-rooting  plants  are  grown  in  the 
same  bed  as  the  bulbs,  the  latter  must  be  put  in 
first ;  but  in  order  to  avoid  the  mistake  of  putting 
in  the  surface  plants  right  over  the  buried  bulbs, 
a  small  stick  should  be  driven  in  immediately 
over  each  one.  When  the  plants  are  duly  put  in 
the  sticks  may  be  removed.  The  flowers  of  the 
bulbous  plants  look  very  well  indeed  with  the 
carpet  of  foliage  and  flowers  of  other  kinds  of 
plants  beneath  them,  especially  when  all 
harmonise,  and  this  important  point  must  bo 
duly  studied  at  the  time  of  planting.  There  is 
always  a  tendency  to  have  red,  white  and  blue 
Hyacinths  in  a  flower-bed.  Of  course,  such  beds 
look  very  well,  but  a  change  is  required  some- 
times. 

Daffodils  and  Wallflowers.  —  These,  in 
themselves,  are  suiEoicnt  to  make  a  garden  look 
gay  and  very  home-like  in  spring.  The  bulbs  of 
the  Daffodils  must  be  planted  in  groups  of,  say, 
seven  in  small  beds  and  twelve  in  large  ones, 
several  groups  in  each  bed,  the  Wallflowers 
being  used  to  fill  up  the  remaining  spaces  in  the 
borders.  When  so  carried  out  the  arrangement 
looks  informal  and  like  the  old-fashioned  style 
of  gardening.  Snowdrops  in  grass  and  Crocuses 
in  the  side  borders  also  look  very  beautiful ;  but 
as  the  time  of  planting  may  be  best  a  little  later 
in  the  month  where  other  beds  must  be  dealt 
with,  further  reference  to  the  actual  planting  of 
the  bulbs  will  be  made.  In  the  meantime, 
readers  may  make  their  final  purchases  of  bulbs. 
Evergreen  Shrubs.  —  The  Aucuba  and 
Euonymus  are  two  very  valuable  plants  for 
the  town  garden.  Both  are  fairly  hardy,  and  do 
not  seem  to  be  damaged  by  frosts  and  cold  winds 
in  winter-time  to  the  same  extent  that  many 
other  kinds  of  shrubs  are.  From  one  specimen 
of  each  kind  a  good  batch  of  young  plants  may  be 
raised.  I  will  briefly  explain  how  this  may  be 
done.  I  will  presume  that  readers  wish  to  hide 
walls,  to  make  up  gaps,  or  to  fill  borders  with 
comparatively  hardy  shrubs  with  bright-coloured 
leaves.  Well,  they  cannot  have  better  kinds 
than  the  two  here  referred  to.  Young  branches 
of  the  Aucuba,  about  9  inches  long,  must  be  cut 
off;  but  the  very  soft,  sappy  branches  ehould 
not  be  selected.  To  make  the  branch  into  a 
cutting  sever  the  stem  just  below  a  leaf  joint, 
and  remove  also  the  lower  leaves  halfway  up  the 
stem.  Dig  up  the  soil  on  a  border  facing  the 
north  or  the  east,  and  then  tread  down  the  soil 
firmly  while  it  is  dry.  Make  trenches  1  foot 
apart  and  4  inches  deep.  Put  some  coarse  sand 
in  the  bottom  and  then  insert  the  prepared 
cuttings  in  the  trenches  so  that  the  leaves  just 
clear  each  other.  Make  the  soil  very  firm 
around  the  base  of  each  cutting  and  give  water. 
Nothing  further  is  required  except  to  tread 
down  the  soil  again  after  each  severe  frost.  The 
cuttings  of  the  Euonymus  must  be  inserted  in  a 
similar  way,  but  in  a  cool  frame,  if  one  is  avail- 
able, and  about  6  inches  apart  each  way.     Avon. 


486 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  2,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR 


THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower   Garden. 
OSE- BEDS. —Keep   these 


ROSE -BEDS. —Keep  these  clean  and 
free  from  weeds,  dead  leaves  and 
suckers,  and  should  the  surface  soil 
be  hard,  slightly  loosen  it  to 
prevent  cracking.  Lose  no  time 
in  preparing  new  beds  intended  to 
be  planted  this  autumn,  and  the  subsoil  should 
be  thoroughly  broken  up  to  a  good  depth  and  use 
ample  drainage  on  heavy,  low-lying  land.  Select 
the  names  of  the  varieties  required  and  order 
early,  so  that  they  may  be  planted  before  the 
weather  gets  too  cold. 

OarnaiioJW.— Those  layered  aome  time  ago 
and  which  may  have  become  well  rooted  will 
need  attention.  Beds  to  be  planted  will  require 
plenty  of  sweet  loam,  grit,  &c. ,  to  keep  the  soil 
open.  Give  a  good  sprinkling  of  lime,  soot  and 
wood-ashes,  and  when  planting  make  the  soil 
moderately  firm.  Lift  the  layers  with  plenty 
of  roots  and  soil  adhering.  The  planting  of 
Crooi,  Aconites  and  Narcissi  may  be  done  if 
the  ground  is  vacant. 

Calceolarias.— The  shrubby  Calceolarias  will 
root  freely  if  the  cuttings  selected  are  young  and 
inserted  rather  close  in  a  sandy  soil  resting  on 
2  inches  or  3  inches  of  manure  on  a  hard  surface. 
The  frames  should  be  kept  close  and  shaded 
in  bright  weather.  Pentstemons  root  well 
under  similar  treatment,  and  many  other  plants 
suitable  for  beds  and  borders.  Primroses  and 
other  spring-blooming  plants,  as  soon  as  the  land 
becomes  vacant  may  be  got  out  where  they  are 
to  remain  and  flower. 

Hardy  Froits. 
Peach  and  other  young  trees  which  are  in- 
clined to  develop  too  much  wood,  with  its 
accompanying  coarseness,  will  be  all  the 
better  if  the  roots  are  lifted  entirely  and 
replanted.  Do  not  mutilate  them  more 
than  can  be  helped,  but  take  them  up  and 
trim  damaged  thongs.  Relay  them  again  at 
different  angles  and  depths,  adding  a  little 
moderately  dry  sweet  loam  as  the  work  proceeds. 
Mulch  with  rather  strawy  manure  to  keep  the 
frost  from  penetrating  the  soil  too  deeply  in 
winter.  Larger  and  unfruitful  trees  will  benefit 
greatly  by  root  lifting  or  pruning  ;  but  when 
carrying  this  out  sever  any  strong  tap-roots 
which  have  gone  down  into  the  cold  subsoil,  such 
roots  being  the  main  cause  of  fruitless  trees. 
Attend  well  to  the 

Ingathering  oj  Apples  and  Pears  as  they 
approach  ripeness.  Gather  the  fruits  with 
great  care  and  when  perfectly  dry.  If  good  and 
sweetly  flavoured  fruits  are  to  be  expected  during 
the  winter,  a  suitable  place  to  store  them  should  be 
provided,  otherwise,  in  addition  to  a  great  loss 
of  the  best  by  rotting,  those  which  keep  fairly 
sound  will  fall  short  of  flavour. 

Kitchen  Garden. 
Potatoes. — These    should    be    taken    up    and 
stored  as  quickly  as  possible.     If  convenient  keep 
the    seed    ones    apart,    and    store    where   frost 
cannot  reach   them.      Be  careful  to    keep  the 
varieties  separate  and  correctly  named.    Continue 
to  earth  up  late  Celery,  doing  this    when  the 
hearts  are  perfectly  dry.     Do  not  put  too  much 
soil  to  the  plants  at  one  time,  to  prevent  the 
hearts    from    growing,    till    the    final   earthing 
takes  place.    Keep  the  hoe,  whenever  convenient, 
freely  plied  between  all  growing  crops  to   en- 
csurage  growth  and   the  destruction  of  weeds. 
Young  Cauliflower  plants  raised  from  seed  sown 
a  month  ago  will  be  large  enough  to  plant  where 
they  are  to  remain  during  the  winter. 
H.  Mabeham. 
(Gardener  to  Yisoount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Conservatory  and  Grkhn house. 

Plants  in  Bloom  require  and  repay  careful 
treatment  to  enable  them  to  maintain  the  present 
display  of  inflorescence  for  some  time  longer,  as, 
until  Chrysanthemums  commence  to  open,  this 
must  be  of  a  gradually  dwindling  character  than 
otherwise.  Remove  faded  foliage  and  flowers  as 
they  appear,  and  slight  manurial  stimulant 
applied  once  a  week  will  be  helpful.  From  now 
onwards  dampness  will  be  the  bane  in  cool 
houses  ;  accordingly,  watering  is  best  done  early 
in  the  day  and  its  use  restricted  as  much  as 
possible  ;  while  in  wet  or  dull  weather  a  little 
fire-heat  will  cause  a  buoyancy  of  the  air  and 
dispel  moisture  very  considerably. 

Bulbous  Plants. — The  main  supply  of  these 
should  now  be  potted,  using  a  compost  of  three 
parts  loam  to  one  of  leaf -mould,  sand,  and  well- 
decayed  manure  ;  5-inoh  and  6-inch  pots  will  be 
large  enough  for  Roman  Hyacinths,  Due  Van 
Thol  Tulips  and  the  early  forms  of  Narcissus. 

Hyacinths  of  the  large-flowering  type  may  be 
potted  singly  in  6-inch  pots,  or  three  bulbs 
may  be  grown  in  those  a  trifle  larger,  ijingle- 
flowered  kinds  are  most  in  favour,  and  a  few 
selected  from  among  many  are  Charles  Dickens, 
Macaulay,  Norma,  Gigantea,  Grand  Vainqueur, 
Robert  Steiger,  La  Candeur,  Mont  Blanc,  Czar 
Peter,  Bird  of  Paradise  and  Queen  of  Yellows. 

Tulips  are  more  in  favour  than  the  former, 
owing  to  their  adaptability  for  use  as  out  flowers 
and  as  being  less  strongly  scented.  In  potting 
place  the  bulbs  so  that  the  apices  are  just 
visible  above  the  soil,  place  the  pots  or  other 
receptacles  upon  a  level  site,  and  cover  all  with 
6  inches  in  depth  of  coal-ashes  or  sand.  Here 
they  may  remain  undisturbed  for  six  or  eight 
weeks,  by  which  time  rooting  and  a  start  in  top 
growth  will  have  taken  place. 

Pelargoniums  of  the  Zonal  type  intended  for 
winter  flowering  should  now  be  arranged  in  a 
light,  airy  house,  where  fire-heat  can  be  turned 
on  at  will.  While  the  weather  continues  favour- 
able admit  air  freely,  and  until  the  flower-heads 
show  withhold  manurial  stimulants  other  than 
clear  water. 

Fruit  Houses. 
Vineries. — Late  Grapes  should  now  be  well 
coloured,  but  as  the  ripening  process  will  continue 
for  some  time,  maintain  a  slight  heat  in  the  pipes 
to  facilitate  this.  Decaying  berries  should  be 
removed  as  soon  as  observed,  or  others  around 
will  become  affected,  to  the  detriment  of  the 
appearance  of  the  bunches.  Houses  whence 
the  fruit  is  cleared  may  have  surplus  shoots 
cut  away  and  the  leading  growths  moderately 
shortened,  after  which  a  washing  by  means  of 
the  garden  engine  overhead  and  needful  supplies 
of  water  to  the  borders  will  put  in  readiness  the 
structures  to  receive  Chrysanthemums  and  other 
plants  in  due  course. 

Pot  Vines  intended  for  very  early  forcing  may 
be  pruned  as  soon  as  the  leaves  fall,  leaving  the 
main  rods  6  feet  or  8  feet  in  length,  according  to 
their  strength  or  the  size  of  house  that  will 
eventually  accommodate  them.  Though  best 
outside  for  some  time  to  come,  it  is  unadviaable 
to  allow  the  roots  to  become  unduly  saturated 
with  autumn  rains ;  hence  some  means  of  prevent- 
ing this  should  be  devised. 

Peaches  and  Neetmrine.^. — As  the  fruit  is  cleared 
from  the  earlier  houses,  it  is  beneficial  to  the  trees 
to  prune  away  all  secondary  shoots  and  sufficient 
of  the  older  bearing  wood  to  allow  that  of  the 
current  year  to  be  tied  in  place  while  yet  pliable. 
Syringe  or  otherwise  wash  the  foliage,  and 
should  red  spider  have  gained  a  footing,  a  little 
sulphur  incorporated  with  the  water  will  help  to 
disperse  this  ;  although  unsightly  at  the  time, 
it  is  easily  washed  oft  both  woodwork  and  foliage 
later  on.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn.) 
QaUmoay  House,  Oarliesten,  iVigtoiimshire. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  An3vreP3.—The  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assiitanee,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  cohnnn.  All  coiwnunica- 
tions  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THE 
Garden,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  LoiMon, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  shotild  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Some  good  Daffodils  and  Tulips 

(i?.).— The  greatest  faith  maybe  placed  in  the 
following  :  Horsfieldi,  Emperor  and  Empress— a 
stately  trio  with  large  trumpets  and  broad 
perianths  of  decided  colouring— the  dainty 
Pheasant's-eye  or  Poet's  Narcissus  (N.  poeticus 
ornatus),  Maxiinus,  Golden  Spur,  ArdRigh, 
M.  J.  Berkeley,  grandis,  Barri  oonspicuus,  P.  R. 
Barr,  the  sweetly  scented  Leedsii  and  the  even 
prettier  Leedsii  Duchess  of  Westminster,  Queen 
of  Spain,  Mme.  de  Graaff,  Sir  Watkin,  Mr. 
•J.  B.  M.  Camm,  Stella  superba,  Burbidgeii, 
prinoeps,  albicans,  and  the  quaint  double 
Daffodils,  the  old  double  called  Telamonius 
plenus,  and  the  orange  and  sulphur  Phcenix. 
One  of  the  earliest  and  most  useful  of  Narcissi 
is  Stella  superba.  We  planted  a  quantity  of  it  in  a 
well-made  border  five  years  ago  ;  the  border  has 
received  no  fresh  soil,  but  this  fluttering  flower 
that  bends  before  the  slightest  breeze  has  never 
degenerated.  It  peers  through  the  soil  as 
vigorously  as  the  first  year  after  the  bulbs 
were  planted.  Unfortunately,  on  dry,  hungry 
soil  Daffodils  are  not  a  success  in  the  grass. 
The  richest  Tulips  in  colour  for  beds  are,  of  the 
early  kinds:  White— Pottebakker,  Snowdrop 
and  White  Swan  ;  scarlet— Artus,  Red  Brutus, 
Scarlet  Beauty  and  Sparkler  ;  orange  scarlet— 
Keizerskroon  and  Duehesse  de  Palnia  ;  yellow — 
Yellow  Prince,  Pottebakker  Yellow,  Ophir  d'Or 
and  Chrysolora ;  crimson— Bacchus,  La  Belle 
Alliance,  Vermilion  Brilliant,  Crimson  King  and 
Van  Vondel.  The  late  Tulips  belong  to  May- 
tall,  majestic  flowers,  of  which  the  Crimson 
Gesner  is  the  most  splendid.  The  Darwina 
are  delightfully  varied  and  effective,  and  those 
who  care  for  quaint  forms  should  choose  the 
Parrot  Tulips.  The  May  Tulips  bring  a  fresh 
beauty  to  the  garden  when  the  Daffodils  are  just 
fading  away,  and  a  bed  of  the  Gesnera  when  in 
the  full  flush  of  their  warm,  rich  beauty,  is  almost 
painfully  intense,  the  inky  pool  in  the  centre 
throwing  into  greater  relief  the  wonderful 
colouring  of  the  petals.  When  the  bulbs  are 
carefully  chosen,  the  first  year  after  planting 
it  is  not  unusual  for  the  stems  to  reach  about 
3  feet  in  height,  but  after  the  third  year  they 
degenerate  sadly,  ^^'e  have  found  that  with  the 
greatest  care  the  late  Tulips  are  of  no  value  after 
the  third  year,  and  annual  lifting  is  almost  a 
necessity.  This,  of  course,  entails  considerable 
labour,  but  the  reward  is  great.  We  reserve  a 
small  plot  in  the  kitchen  garden  for  this  species 
and  the  tribe  to  which  it  has  given  birth  for  the 
sake  of  cutting  the  glorious  flower-goblets  for 
tall  vases  in  the  house.  Many  of  the  hybrids  and 
varieties  have  a  faint  and  sweet  fragrance. 
Five  inches  deep. 

Rock  garden  plants  for  July  and  August 
IC  E  ./) -You  will  find  the  following  of  service  for  the 
months  named:  Androsace  lanuginosa,  Thymus  serpyllum 
coccineum,  Zausohneria  calitoroica,  Campanula  garganica. 
C  e  alba,  e.g.  hirsuta.C.  Profusion,  Polygonum  Biunonis, 
Erigeron  mucronatus,  Silene  maritima  plena  S.  alP"tn8, 
Sedum  kamschaticum  variegatum,  S.  spectabile,  Gnapha- 
lium    Leentopodium,  Opantla  huiailis,  O.  raflneaquiana, 


OCTOBKK    2,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


487 


Genista  prostrata,  Geranium  argenteum,  Erodium  macra- 
denum,  Aresaria  cfespitosa  and  others.  You  might 
als«  indulge  in  the  foHomng,  which  are  always  pleasing, 
whether  in  or  out  of  flower:  Sedum  Sieboldi,  S.  Lydiam, 
S.  spurium  in  variety,  S.  glaucum,  S.  mlddendorfflana, 
Sempervivum  arachnoideum,  S.  calcareum,  S.  montanum 
and  S.  Laggeri.  Crocus  speciosus  and  Cyclamen  neapoli- 
tanum  are  also  pretty  about  September. 

Hepbaceous  plants  for  sbade  (Herbaceous). 
If  the  shade  is  dense  and  the  trees  large  you  will  not  be 
able  to  grow  and  flower  many  things  with  success,  though 
Ferns  generally  would  succeed  quite  well.  Of  the  more 
suitable  of  shade-loving  plants  that  occur  to  us  at  the 
moment  are  the  broad-leaved  Megaaeas,  Solomon's  Seal 
(one  of  the  very  best),  London  Pride,  Lily  of  the  Valley, 
Polyanthuses  and  Primroses,  Daffodils  in  variety,  Fos- 
glovea,  Honesty,  Woodruff,  Lenten  and  Christmas  Roses, 
Hepaticas,  Campanulas  of  the  Peach-leaved  section,  also 
lactiflora  and  others,  such  Lilies  as  canadense,  parda- 
linum,  candidum,  testaceum,  tigrinum,  Flag  and  other 
Irises,  Dielytra  esimia,  D.  spectabilis,  Japanese  Anemones, 
and  the  like.  A  large  variety  of  Michaelmas  Daisies  do 
not  object  to  light  shade,  and  we  have  been  looking  for 
weeks  past  on  a  delightful  hedge  of  Sweet  Peas  that  is 
completely  shaded  by  Apple  trees,  finer  blossoms  having 
been  taken  therefrom  than  from  the  more  open  positions 
where  the  soil  is  light.  We  regard  these  latter  as  a  great 
gain  in  shady  places. 

Infopmation  about  Lillums  {Leuns  F.  Barton). 
The  Liliums  you  refer  to  may  be  all  grown  in  a  soil  com- 
posed of  loam  {three  parts),  with  sand  and  manure  finely 
sifted,  equally,  for  the  other  part.  If  you  possess  charcoal, 
a  small  proportion  may  be  added  with  advantage.  In 
the  case  of  L.  lancifolium — the  correct  name  of  which  is  L. 
apeciosum— a  richer  soil  may  be  employed.  Imported 
bulbs  should  be  potted  as  soon  as  received,  placing  them 
under  a  cover  of  ashes  or  in  a  frame  till  growth  appears.  No 
water  should  be  applied  till  this  stage  is  reached.  When 
in  free  growth  and  well  rooted,  ample  supplies  of  root 
moisture  should  be  given,  and  care  should  be  taken  to  keep 
insect  pests  in  check.  When  about  mid-growth  has  b'sen 
made,  a  surface  dressing  of  rich  soil  should  be  given 
to  support  the  stem  -  roots  freely  produced  at  that 
time.  After  flowering,  the  plants  should  be  treated  much 
the  same  as  before  till  the  falling  of  the  leaves  suggest 
that  the  growth  has  completed  its  season's  work.  At  this 
time  the  bulbs  may  be  repotted,  first  exposing  the  top  soil 
to  the  level  of  the  bulbs  and  slightly  reducing  the  soil 
lower  down  with  as  little  injury  or  mutilation  to  the  roots 
as  circumstances  will  permit. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Climbeps    fop    a    fence    with    a 
south-west   aspect   In   Argyll    (Z>. 

M.  M.), — -The  following  climbera  other  than 
Roses  are  suitable  for  your  purpose  :  Clematis 
montana,  C.  montana  nibene,  C.  Jackmani 
superba,  C.  Anderson  Henryi,  C.  Flamraula 
rubro  -  marginata,  C.  Mme.  Edouard  Andr6, 
Solanum  jasminoides,  Hydrangea  altissima^ 
Jasminum  nudiflorum,  Clianthus  puniceus,  Akebia 
lobata,  Fassiflora  Constance  Elliott,  Lonioera 
sempervirena  and  L.  japonioa  halleana.  The  best 
label  for  the  purpose  you  mention  is  Chandler's 
Patent  Indelible  Label,  to  be  obtained  from 
Messrs.  Osman  and  Co.,  157,  Commercial  Street, 
London,  E.C.  This  is  a  thin  metallic  label  and 
oan  be  written  on  with  a  pointed  stick.  The 
point  of  the  stick  impresses  the  letters  into  the 
label.  It  is  used  for  plants  that  have  to  make 
long  sea  voyages  or  for  things  that  have  to  be 
packed  damp  for  a  long  journey. 

How  to    stake    young:  trees   [A. 

H,  i?.). — In  order  to  prevent  the  ties  or  wire 
from  cutting  into  or  chafing  the  bark  of  the  tree, 
a  short  length  of  stout  rubber  hose  is  one  of  the 
best  things  that  we  know.  A  good  plan  to  secure 
a  tree  in  position  is  to  drive  in  three  stout 
stumps  firmly  in  the  ground,  at  a  distance  from 
the  main  seem  proportionate  to  the  height  of 
the  tree.  They  must  be  arranged  triangular- 
wise.  Then  fasten  a  piece  of  stout  wire  to  the 
main  stem  about  three  parts  of  the  way  up 
the  tree  and  secure  it  to  one  of  these  stumps. 
This  must  also  be  done  in  the  case  of  the  other 
two,  when  the  tree  will  be  held  securely  in 
position  from  whichever  point  of  the  compass 
the  wind  blows.  Each  wire  where  it  touches  the 
tree  should  be  passed  through  a  piece  of  rubber 
hose.  Even  if  one  stake  is  sufficient,  the  hose 
will  be  found  a  good  preventive  of  chafing. 
With  regard  to  tree  guards,  as  iron  ones  are  too 
expensive  it  is  possible  that  effective  ones  could 
be  made  locally  at  a  cheaper  rate  from  timber 
too  rough  for  many  purposes.  It  is  important  to 
stake  young  trees  strongly,  especially  as  the  winter 
is  coming  and  disturbance  at  the  roots  is  fatal. 


Raising  tpees  fpom  seeds  (P.  H.  Edmunds),— 
We  do  not  know  of  any  book  which  deals  exclusively  with 
raising  trees  from  seeds.  You  can,  however,  obtain  a 
great  deal  of  useful  information  on  tree  and  shrub  propa- 
gation from  "  Trees  and  Shrubs  for  English  Gardens,"  pub- 
lished at  this  office,  price  10s.  6d. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Hydrang^eas   after  flowering'  (/. 

Lunnon). — Whether  Hydrangeas  will  need  re- 
potting each  year  depends  entirely  upon  the  con- 
dition the  plants  are  in  and  the  size  of  the  pots. 
You  do  not  give  us  any  idea  as  to  either  of  these 
points,  and  for  this  reason  our  advice  is  naturally 
limited.  As  the  season  is  so  far  advanced,  we 
should  certainly  not  repot  the  Hydrangea  till 
the  spring  unless  it  is  very  much  potbound. 
Hydrangea  paniculata  should,  early  in  the  year 
before  growth  recommences,  be  pruned  back  to 
within  two  or  three  eyes  of  the  old  wood  and  be 
then  repotted,  that  is,  if  repotting  is  necessary, 
but  a  personal  inspection  only  can  decide  that 
point.  If  you  decide  not  to  repot,  an  occasional 
stimulant  in  the  shape  of  liquid  manure  during 
the  growing  season  will  be  helpful. 

^Vintep  tpeatment   of    Gloxinias,   Achi- 
menes,   Cannas   and    tuberous   Begonias 

(Lewis  F.  Barton). — The  Gloxinias  when  the  plants  have 
matured  and  the  leaves  fallen  away  may  be  laid  on  their 
sides  to  prevent  moisture  reaching  the  tubers,  or  the  latter 
may  be  shaken  free  of  soil  and  stored  in  perfectly  dry  sand 
in  a  temperature  of  no  leas  than  45®.  If  you  have  room  to 
retain  the  bulbs  in  their  flowering  pots,  they  do  quite  well 
in  this  way  ;  but  as  you  would  have  to  shake  them  out  in 
spring  nothing  would  be  gained.  Indeed,  shaking  them 
out  in  autumn  and  placing  in  pots  of  dry  sand— a  pot 
S  inches  across  will  take  a  couple  of  dozen  tubers  of 
moderate  size— acts  as  an  economiser  of  space.  The 
Begonias  and  Aohimenes  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way, 
except  that  the  former  require  a  lower  temperature 
for  storing.  The  Cannas  will  winter  quite  well  If  placed 
beneath  the  staj^e  of  a  greenhouse,  arranging  them  close 
together  and  sprinkling  over  them  some  light  soil,  or 
they  will  be  safe  enough  if  placed  in  a  fairly  dry,  frost- 
proof cellar.  Apart  from  this,  the  thing  to  avoid  is  a 
place  that  is  excessively  dry.  Drip  also  settling  in  the 
crown  is  harmful.  It  is  important  that  these  things  be 
moderately  dry  before  being  stored  away. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

Roses    fop    cold    grpeenhouse 

(Herbert). — We  have  rather  a  difficulty  in  aeleot- 
ing  two  dozen  from  your  list  that  are  really 
suitable  for  cultivating  in  a  cold  greenhouse.  For 
this  purpose  you  really  require  sorts  of  the 
Caroline  Testout  and  Frau  Karl  Drusohki  type. 
Howerer,  we  name  the  following,  and  with  care 
you  should  be  able  to  grow  them  all  right  : 
Liberty,  Richmond,  Mme.  Faloot,  Safrano,  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant,  William  Shean,  Betty,  Lb  Progrea, 
Mme.  Ravary,  Mme.  Hoste,  Paul  Lede,  Pharisaer, 
Lady  Roberts,  Maman  Cochet,  Antoine  Rivoire, 
Melanie  Soupert,  Marie  van  Houtte,  Joseph  Hill, 
Lady  Ashtown,  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Prince 
de  Bulgarie,  White  Maman  Coohet,  Franeisoa 
Kruger  and  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting. 

Rambler  Roses  shedding:  theip 
buds  {P.  B.  H.). — We  believe  the  cause  of 
this  is  mainly  owing  to  the  very  uncongenial 
weather.  We  have  heard  of  this  occurrence 
from  several  sources  this  season.  Probably  the 
embryo  buds  were  injured  by  the  late  spring 
frosts  and  chilly  nights,  and  no  doubt  the 
excessive  rainfall  has  a  deal  to  do  with  it  also. 
We  should  not  have  mulched  the  plants  in  such 
a  season  as  this,  as  it  would  have  been  better  to 
have  allowed  a  freer  access  of  air  and  warmth  to 
the  soil,  which  the  surface  mulching  prevents. 
Even  now  you  will  do  well  to  fork  in  the  Hop 
manure  and  see  that  the  soil  is  kept  loose  around 
the  plants.  That  the  bush  Roses  have  been  a 
success,  even  though  growing  under  similar  con- 
ditions to  the  rambler,  is  accounted  for  by  the 
fact  that  their  buds  are  less  freely  produced  than 
the  ramblers  and  they  have  quite  a  different 
nature. 

Hybrid    Teas    fop    a    new    bed 

(Pierrot). — Many  of  this  beautiful  tribe  are  lack- 
ing in  scent.  Even  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  has 
no  special  fragrance.      We  name  a  few  of  each 


colour  you  desire,  and  we  think  any  of  these 
will  meet  with  your  stipulations  of  erect  growth^ 
good  shape  and  fragrant :  Pink,  Gustave 
Grunerwald,  Mme.  Segond  Weber,  Killarney, 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  and  Mme.  Edmee  Metz ; 
white  and  blush,  Augustine  Guinoisaeau,  Mrs. 
David  McKee,  Admiral  Pewey  and  Molly 
Sharman  Crawford  ;  yellow,  Mme.  Ravary,  Mrs. 
Peter  Blair  and  Le  Progrfes ;  crimson,  Richmond, 
General  Maearthur,  Liberty,  Lady  Batteraea 
and  Laurent  Carle, 

Autumn  pruning'  of  Roses  (S.  F.  8.). 

It  is  not  advisable  to  prune  Hybrid  Tea  Roses  in 
autumn,  for  it  is  at  this  season  of  the  year  they 
should  be  giving  us  a  wealth  of  blossom.  As 
you  do  not  care  to  see  your  plants  with  the  tall 
growths,  you  could  shorten  them  back  a  little, 
cutting  them  to  the  first  plump  eye  beneath  the 
pronged  growths.  You  could  transplant  the 
half -standard  Rosea  planted  two  years  ago.  If 
this  is  done  during  the  latter  part  of  October, 
you  should  have  every  success  with  them.  Trim 
over  their  roots  and  search  for  sucker  eyes  that 
produce  the  wild  Briar.  Cut  back  the  growths 
to  within  6  inches  or  8  inches  of  the  base  of  the 
shoots  and  remove  all  foliage  as  soon  as  you  dig 
up  the  plants.  Lay  them  in  by  their  heels  in  a 
ahady  spot  until  you  are  ready  to  replant. 

Rose  Poptuno's  Yello^v  shedding  Its 
foliagre  (Moor  Hen). — Vou  appear  to  have  taken  special 
care  in  preparing  the  soil  for  this  Rose,  and  a  depth  of 
3  feet  should  be  sufficient  for  a  three  year  old  plant. 
Sometimes  this  shedding  of  the  foliage  during  the  growing 
season  (a  peculiarity  of  the  variety)  is  owing  to  a  bad  sub- 
soil :  but  this  cannot  be  so  in  your  case,  and  we  can  only 
assume  the  trouble  arises  through  some  defect  at  the 
junction  between  stock  and  the  bud.  Own-root  plants 
are  much  to  be  preferred.  You  might  possibly  be  enabled 
to  layer  one  of  the  lower  growths  into  a  large  pot.  This 
should  give  you  a  good  own-root  plant  to  take  the  place 
of  the  present  plant  if  it  fails.  We  advise  you  to  cut 
back  the  growths  at  once,  as  the  correct  time  to  prune 
this  Rose  is  immediately  after  it  has  bloomed.  Prune 
the  side  or  lateral  growths  back  to  one  eye  or  bud,  and 
any  old  growth  that  appears  sickly  remove  altogether. 
We  think  very  possibly  it  may  be  that  the  old  wood  that 
has  flowered  so  abundantly  had  been  slightly  injured  by 
frost,  but  not  autliciently  to  retard  its  blooming.  Young, 
well-ripened  wood  always  gives  the  best  results.  If  you  are 
satisfied  the  soil  is  sufficiently  moist,  do  not  give  anymore 
liquid ;  but  if  the  subsoil  is  gravelly,  a  good  soaking  with 
clear  water  would  be  advisable.  Perfect  drainage  is 
necessary  with  Roses  of  this  type,  as  indeed  it  is  with  all 
wall  Roses. 


FRUIT    6ARDBN. 
Seeds  gpowlng:  Inside  a  Melon 

(if.  W.  D.).  — In  our  experience  of  forty  years  in 
the  growth  of  Melons  we  have  not  infrequently 
come  acrosi  a  similar  example  to  yours,  with  this 
difference,  however,  that  we  have  no  reooUeotioa 
of  seeing  a  green  growth  under  these  conditions 
before.  In  the  absence  of  air  it  is,  we  suppose^ 
impossible  for  growth  to  take  place,  and  in  th& 
absence  of  light  we  presume  it  is  equally 
impossible  for  growth  to  take  on  a  green  colour, 
and,  therefore,  in  the  ordinary  nature  of  things 
one  would  expect  to  find  some  slight  opening  at 
the  stalk  or  some  other  part  of  the  fruit  where, 
at  any  rate,  a  little  air  could  penetrate.  If  it  is 
not  so,  it  is  a  case  for  acientiats  to  solve. 

Young:  Apple  tpees  doing:  badly 

{H.  B). — Seeing  that  your  trees  have  made  such 
little  growth  during  this  favourable  season  to  the 
growth  of  trees,  we  are  inclined  to  conclude  that 
the  land  is  poor  and  that  your  local  people's 
advice  to  manure  ia  a  sound  one.  Young  trees 
in  poor  soil  must  have  a  little  help  in  the  way  of 
manure  to  give  them  a  start.  Well-decayed  farm, 
or  stable  manure  is  no  doubt  the  beat,  as  it  contains, 
a  considerable  amount  of  humus,  a  necessary 
constituent  of  any  soil  for  healthy  growth,  which, 
artificial  manure  does  not.  If  you  decide  to. 
apply  farmyard  manure,  you  should  first  clear 
the  ground  round  the  trees  as  far  aa  you  think 
the  roots  extend  of  any  grass  or  other  growth, 
and  apply  a  dressing  4  inches  deep  over  the 
surface  of  the  ground  thus  cleared,  leaving  it 
on  during  winter  and  spring.  The  time  to  apply 
it  is  the  end  of  October.     Seeing  that  the  trees 


488 


THE     GARDEN. 


[October  2,  1909. 


have  made  but  little  growth,  we  should  let  them 
go  unpruned  this  winter.  Should  you  prefer  to 
apply  artitioial  manure,  the  following  is  the  beat 
we  know  of.  We  have  no  means  of  ascertaining 
the  cost,  but  any  manure  merchant  advertising 
with  us  would  tell  you.  Nitrogen,  45  per  cent.  ; 
ammonia,  5  per  cent.  ;  phosphates,  35  per  cent. 
(10  per  cent,  of  which  must  be  soluble) ;  potash, 
3  per  cent.  Apply  a  quart  to  each  tree,  scat- 
tering it  over  the  surface  soil  and  gently  forking 
it  in.  * 

To  improve  old  Apple  trees  {H. 

Daioaon). — The  first  thing  we  would  do  would 
be  (as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen)  to  remove 
5  inches  or  6  inches  of  the  surface  soil  as  far  as 
the  roots  extend,  and  then  give  each  a  thorough 
good  soaking  of  strong  liquid  manure  from  the 
stable  or  oattle  yard,  and  another  similar  soaking 
in  a  week's  time.  Immediately  the  ground  is 
dry  enough  after  this  soaking  replace  the  soil 
taken  away  with  the  following  compost :  To  one 
cartload  of  well-decayed,  rich  farmyard  manure 
add  the  same  amount  of  good  loamy  soil,  half  a 
hundredweight  of  bone-meal  and  the  same  of 
quicklime.  Place  this  dressing  over  the  roots 
while  the  soil  is  not  too  wet,  and  tread  it  down 
firmly.  Towards  the  end  of  April  give  the  old 
trees  another  good  soaking  of  manure-water,  and 
immediately  afterwards  a  covering  (4  inches  deep) 
of  short,  fresh,  littery  stable  manure  to  cover  the 
same  area  of  ground  as  the  first  soil  dressing. 
This  will  prevent  the  too  rapid  evaporation  of 
moisture  from  the  soil,  and  also  help  to  feed  the 
young  summer  roots,  which  will  soon  fill  the 
new  top-dressing  of  soil  given  the  trees  in  winter. 

Keeping'  Pears  (H.  John).— The  chief  conditions 
it  is  necessary  to  secure  in  any  room  or  place  where  Pears 
are  to  be  kept  well,  and  where  they  will  properly  ripen 
and  mellow  down,  is  that  it  should  be  dark  and  not  too 
airy,  and  where  the  air  is  rather  on  the  moist  side  than  on 
the  dry  and  the  temperature  during  winter  ranges  from 
48**  to  56°  Fahr.  They  should  be  protected  from  frost  by 
covering  over  in  hard  weather ;  neither  hay  nor  straw 
should  be  used,  or  the  fruit  will  taste  strongly  of  it  after- 
wards. A  dairy,  cellar  or  a  room  in  the  house  with  a 
■north  aspect,  where  the  temperature  does  not  vary 
much,  would  do  very  well.  The  most  convenient  way  of 
storing  them,  we  think,  is  by  investing  in  a  few  of  those 
cheap,  light  and  shallow  trays  now  common  on  the  market. 
These  will  hold  anything  from  twelve,  twenty-four  to 
thirty-six  each,  according  to  the  sizes  wished,  and  can  be 
stored  away  in  odd  corners  where  space  is  limited.  The 
•fruit  from  time  to  time  can  be  easily  examined  in  these. 


Tomatoes  under  glass  splitting  (Lewi.^  F. 
Barton).— The  cause  of  splitting  in  these  fruits  may  be  due 
to  an  exceptionally  thin,  almost  transparent  skin,  to 
over-ripeness,  or  to  an  excess  of  moisture  supplied  after  a 
season  of  too  much  dryness.  The  same  thing  will  happen 
when  the  house  is  kept  unduly  moist,  and  particularly  so 
with  sudden  bursts  of  strong  sunlight.  Some  varieties 
are  more  prone  than  others  to  splitting,  the  split  appear- 
ing across  the  top  of  the  fruit  or  near  the  base  about  the 
stalk  portion.  Excessive  feeding  of  the  fruits,  particularly 
where  the  latter  are  permitted  to  remain  long  on  the 
plants,  is  another  fruitful  cause  of  the  splitting,  and  it  is 
more  marked  in  those  instances  where  the  plants,  having 
been  unreasonably  defoliated,  are  less  capable  of  taking 
up  and  assimilating  the  food  supplies  afforded  them.  In 
other  words,  the  splitting  of  the  fruits  is  very  much  the 
result  of  cultural  errors,  and  possibly  from  the  above  you 
might  be  able  to  trace  the  cause  in  your  own  case.  Fruits 
when  fairly  coloured  should  be  gathered  at  once  and 
finished  off  in  a  dry,  warm  room.  If  left  on  the  plants, 
they  not  only  distress  the  younger  fruits,  but  inter- 
cept the  moisture  necessary  for  these  and,  as  they  could 
not  use  it,  would  create  the  splitting  to  which  you  refer. 


Names  of  vltkJlts,— George  ffun^— Chrysanthemum 
maximum  ;   propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings  and  division  of 

the  roots. E?i*/uirer. -— Tagetes  pumila  and  Senecio 

elegans  flore-pleno ;  they  are  both  annuals.— J".  C.  D.— 
1,   Erigeron  multiradiatus  ;  2,   Helenium  autumnale  var. 

cupreum  ;    3,   Astrantia    major. M.    J.—\,    Saponaria 

ofiBcinalis  ;  2.  Helianthus  multiflorus  flore-pleno, W.  J, 

Palmer. — 1.  Cypripedium  cardinale  ;  2,  Miltonia  Candida  ; 
3.   Cypripedium  Roezlii ;    4,   Odontoglossum   laeve. — — fl". 

itf or/>Ay,—  Common  Barberry  (Berberis  vulgaris). W.  M. 

— 1,  Please  send  specimen  in  flower ;  2,  Thalictrum  flavum ; 
3,  Scrophularia  aqnatica  variegata ;   4,  Veronica  pingui- 

folia  ;   .S,  Veronica   pimelioides;    6,  Inula  Helenium. 

Fuh.—\,  Artemisia  vulgaris ;  2,  Chenopodium  album  var. 

viride. L.   JJ.— The  name  of  the  plant  is  Sparmannia 

africana.  It  is  best  grown  in  a  warm  greenhouse,  and 
in  the  open  air  in  summer-time.  It  makes  a  good 
dwelling-room  plant. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN- 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
How  to   treat   Sagre   for  winter 

use  (/.  W.). — The  Sage  must  be  cut  while  it  is 
in  bloom,  and  the  etems,  leaves  and  flowers,  just 
as  cut  from  the  plants,  must  be  laid  on  paper  in 
an  airy  shed  to  dry.  Directly  it  is  all  dried,  tie 
up  the  Sage  into  small  bundles — about  one  dozen 
stems  in  each  bundle — and  suspend  them  from 
nails  in  a  oool,  airy  room  or  cupboard.  So 
gathered  and  treated,  the  Sage  will  retain  its 
full  strength.  It  must  not  be  exposed  to  the 
(Sunshine. 

Sppln^-so^n  Onions  (X  X  G.).— At  many  rural 
exhibitions  Onions  raised  from  seed  sown  under  glass  in 
January  or  February,  and  later  planted  outdoors,  are 
classed  as  spring  sown.  In  other  cases  there  are  special 
classes  for  glass-raised  Onions,  and  in  other  cases  the 
spring-sown  class  rigidly  excludes  winter-sown  Onions. 
You  refer  to  Onions  planted  out,  but  do  not  say  when  the 
seed  was  sown.  We  assume  you  do  not  mean  plants  raised 
from  an  autumn  sowing  and  transplanted  in  the  spring, 
as,  of  course,  these  could  not  be  spring  sown.  If  you  look 
at  the  Onion  classes  in  the  schedule  of  The  Garden  Show 
you  will  see  there  those  suitable  for  autumn  and  those  for 
spring.  Now,  while  we  cannot  well  control  the  judges' 
decision,  yet,  if  appealed  to,  we  should  say  as  Onions  raised 
from  a  sowing  in  January  or  February  cannot  be  classed  as 
autumn  sown,  they  must  of  necessity  be  classed  as  spring 
sown,  as  the  months  named  may  just  as  well  be  classed  as 
spring  months  as  November  and  December  are  termed 
autumn  months.  It  is  always  so  much  better  to  take  a 
iDroad  view  of  schedule  conditions  than  very  limited  or 
restricted  ones.  If  an  Onion  sown  in  March,  or  even 
in  February,  outdoors  is  spring  sown,  equally  so  is  one 
from  a  sowing  in  January.  The  term  "spring"  admits  of 
a  wide  definition.  The  Orange- flowered  plant  is  known  as 
Biplacus  glutinosus  and  also  as  Mimulus,  but  while  the 
latter  are  soft-wooded  this  plant  is  hard-wooded  or 
shrubby.  The  plant  is  very  glutinous  or  sticky.  The  other 
flower  was  too  crushed  to  be  recognisable.  All  flowers  for 
naming  should  be  put  into  boxes  with  some  damp  paper 
■or  moss. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Plants  fop  Inspection  (J^.  A.  Newall).—The  plants 
appear  to  be  suffering  from  lack  of  phosphates  in  the  soil. 
There  is  no  fungus  present.  The  Rose  has  been  badly 
attacked  by  Rose  aphis,  and  should  have  been  sprayed 
with  nicotine  and  soap  or  quassia  and  soft  soap  on  the 
earliest  appearance  of  the  pest. 

Using:  potassium  sulphide  (A.  P.,  Winchmore 
Hill).— The  potassium  sulphide  is  itself  an  insecticide,  and 
may  be  made  more  efficient  by  dissolving  21b.  of  soft  soap 
in  ten  gallons  of  water  together  with  5oz.  of  potassium 
sulphide,  and  then  churning  into  the  mixture,  so  as  to 
make  an  emulsion,  16oz.  of  paraffin  (lighting  oil). 

Weed  In  lawns  (E.  T.  Light  foot).  — The  weed 
that  is  growing  in  your  lawn  is  one  of  the  Hawkweeds 
(Hieracium  species).  It  is,  however,  impossible  to  deter- 
mine the  particular  species  without  flowers.  A  dressing 
of  one  of  the  various  lawn  sands  advertised  would  get  rid 
of  a  lot  of  it,  but  the  dressing  would  probably  have  to  be 
renewed  next  year,  as  seedlings  are  sore  to  appear 
again.  A  dressing  of  rich  soil  applied  this  autumn  would 
also  do  good  by  strengthening  the  grass  and  helping  it  to 
crowd  the  Hawkweed  out.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  get 
rid  of  it  by  hand-weeding,  as  may  be  done  with  Plantains. 

Various  questions  {Canadknne).— The  Phloxes 
require  rich  and  moist  soils  and  frequent  deluging  with 
water  in  ordinarily  dry  seasons,  otherwise  the  results  are 
most  disappointing.  Old  plants,  too,  are  well-nigh  useless 
and  should  be  discarded  in  favour  of  younger  ones.  Given 
this  treatment  they  do  quite  well  in  any  open  border,  but 
failing  it  would  be  better  with  a  slightly  shaded  position. 
Dahlias  also  require  much  the  same  treatment  as  to  soil  and 
water ;  but  these  are  not  hardy,  and  must  be  lifted  each 
year  when  frost  has  destroyed  the  leafage.  If  your 
Fuchsia  is  a  hardy  one,  it  will  do  quite  well  in  sun  or  in 
partial  shade,  and  may  be  cut  down  each  year  or  not.  The 
Turk's-cap  Lily  would  be  best  in  rather  deep,  heavy  loam 
in  a  border  having  a  western  exposure,  while  the  Day 
Lilies  will  succeed  in  sun  or  in  shade  provided  a  fair  depth 
of  soil  is  at  hand.  The  Golden  Rods  are  by  no  means 
exacting,  as  they  will  grow  in  woods  or  near  water.  Thinly 
planted  In  the  shrubbery  they  are  also  effective.  The 
transplanting  of  any  of  the  above  requiring  it  may  be 
undertaken  during  the  next  few  weeks. 

Basic  sla^  as  manure  fop  a  law^n  (G^.  B.  S.). 
In  order  to  maintain  a  lawn  in  the  best  possible  condition, 
it  is  necessary  that  the  loss  sustained  by  the  growth  of 
grass  crops  cleared  away  by  the  mowing-machine  should 
be  made  good  by  something  more  substantial  than  an 
occasional  dressing  of  artificial  manure.  The  best  way  of 
doing  this,  we  think,  is  by  giving  the  lawn  a  good  dressing 
every  October  of  the  following  mixture  :  To  half  a  ton  of 
well-rotted  farmyard  manure  add  the  same  quantity  of 
ordinary  garden  soil,  further  adding  to  this  double 
quantity  half  a  bag  of  bone-dust  and  the  same  of  lime, 
well  mixing  together.  This  should  be  spread  over  the 
lawn  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  It  will  not  be 
pleasant  to  look  upon  for  a  short  time,  but  it  will  soon  be 
absorbed  by  the  grasses.  In  addition  to  this,  a  slight 
sowing  of  Peruvian  Guano  should  be  given  the  first  week 
in  March,  and  again  the  first  week  in  J  une.  Thus  attended 
to,  a  lawn  may  l)e  maintained  in  splendid  condition  for 
any  length  of  time.  Basic  slac  is  an  excellent  manure  for 
promoting  pasture  growth,  but  it  so  encourages  the 
growth  of  Clover  that  it  should  never  be  used  where 
this  is  objected  to,  as  it  usually  is  on  lawns.  Four 
hundredweight  per  acre  is  the  proper  dressing  of  this  to 
apply,  and  the  middle  of  October  is  the  best  time  to  apply 
it.  If  your  lawn  is  now  off  colour,  give  it  a  dressing  of 
nitrate  of  soda  (crushing  it  very  small)  at  the  rate  of 
2Acwt.  per  acre,  and  it  will  soon  assume  a  better  colour. 

Names  of  fpult.— S.  3/.— 1,  Souvenir  du  Congres; 

2,  Williams's  Bon  Chretien  ;  3,  same  as  No  2,  but  probably 

grown  on  a  different  stock. O.  B.  IT.— Irish  Peach. 

Colonel  B.—l,  Blenheim  Orange;  2,  Hambledon  Deux  Ans; 

3,  Striped  Beaufln  ;  4,  Duchesse  de  Angouleme. T.  L.— 

1,  Gisborne's  Plum  ;  2,  Lawson's  Golden  Gage  ;  3,  Guthrie's 
Gage;  4,  Old  Green  G&ge.—Fish.  —  l,  Apple  Hawthorn- 
den  ;  2,  Warner's  King ;  1,  Pear  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey. 

H.  Ford.—l,  Cox's  Emperor;  2,  Belle  de  Louvain  ;    3, 

Denver   Victoria ;  4,   Late   Orleans ;   6,  Washington. 

Ayrshire  Lad.—Ve&r  Souvenir  du  Congres.  We  should 
advise  lifting  and  root-pruning  to  prevent  the  cracking. 

—F.  J.  Ashdown.—l,  Smashed  ;  2,  Belle  de  Louvain. 


NEW    PEAS    AT    BEDFOKD. 


M' 


ESSRS.  LAXTON  have  some  inter- 
esting trials  of  new  Peas  at  their 
GoldiDgton  Road  nursery ;  and 
this  is  not  surprising,  as  many 
years  ago  Mr.  Thomas  Laxton  sent 
out  some  excellent  varieties,  which 
at  that  time  were  a  great  advance  on  those  in 
existence.  One  of  the  best  from  this  source  sent 
out  of  recent  years  was  the  well-known  Gradus. 
This  was  of  the  Marrow  quality,  with  the  earli- 
ness  of  the  smaller  kinds,  which  were  hardier, 
so  that  with  hardiness,  earliness  and  quality 
combined  the  gain  was  immense.  Now  Mr. 
William  Laxton  is  devoting  much  time  to  this 
work,  and  his  newest  introductions  are  very  fine. 
The  Laxtonian — the  result  of  crossing  Gradus 
and  William  Hurst — has  produced  a  very  early 
Pea  with  the  true  Marrow  flavour,  a  full  pod 
and  of  delicious  quality,  dwarf  and  most  prolific. 
Here  may  be  seen  the  Hurst  blood  in  earliness, 
with  the  Marrow  quality  of  Gradus  ;  this  should 
make  a  welcome  market-garden  Pea,  as  it  is  only 
2  feet  high  and  remarkably  prolific,  haulm 
strong,  and  the  pods  firmly  packed  with  about 
ten  Peas  in  each.  I  saw  this  variety  sown  in  the 
first  week  in  March,  and  good  pods  were  ready 
in  three  months  from  the  date  of  sowing.  It 
may  be  said  that  it  is  difficult  to  get  a  better 
dwarf  Pea  than  Gradus,  but  this  is  not  so  early 
as  William  Hurst.  To  get  the  quality  of  Gradus 
with  the  earliness  of  the  smaller  Peas  will 
prove  a  great  boon  to  both  large  and  small 
growers.     The 

Thomas  Laxton  is  something  after  the  type  of 
the  Laxtonian,  and  growers  may  well  ask 
Why  multiply  the  varieties  ?  but  the  aim  of  Mr. 
William  Laxton  was  to  get  an  earlier  pod  with 
equal  quality,  and  this  has  been  obtained,  as 
the  newer  form  precedes  the  last-named  ;  it  is 
much  dwarfer — a  great  gain  with  early  varieties. 
For  a  second  crop  to  follow  on  an  early  one, 
Thomas  Laxton  is  excellent ;  indeed,  it  may  be 
termed  a  good  early  Ne  Plus  Ultra.  I  now 
come  to  a  very  fine  maincrop  Pea,  and  one 
which  interested  me  greatly,  namely, 

Laxton's  Maincrop.  —  This  new  Pea  claims 
Alderman  as  one  parent  and  Sutton's  Prize- 
winner as  the  other.  Those  who  have  grown 
the  first-named — a  splendid  variety  of  Messrs. 
Laxton's  introduced  some  years  ago — and  the 
grand  Prizewinner — probably  one  of  the  best 
ever  raised — will  expect  much  from  the  new 
form.  It  is  very  fine,  having  the  Alderman  pod 
with  the  quality  of  Prizewinner.  It  grows 
3  feet  high  and  has  a  good  habit  of  growth  ;  a 
very  fine  garden  Pea,  dwarfer  than  Alderman 
the  quality  is  unsurpassed. 

There  are  other  new  crosses  this  year  of  great 
interest,  but  those  named  will  show  that  good 
work  is  being  done.  In  all  the  early  crosses 
Gradus  is  a  favourite  parent  even  now,  and  all 
the  seedlings  are  grown  so  that  the  old  forms 
can  be  compared,  and  improvement  is  soon  noted. 
We  do  not  want  mere  variety,  but  quality.  We 
have  pods  large  enough  for  all  purposes  when 
they  are  well  filled.  G.  Wythes. 


October  2,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


vu. 


A  HOME  OF  SWEET  PEAS. 

A  Uat  with  Mr.  W.  J.  Unwin. 

EARLY  in  July  last  we  had  the  pleasure 
of  spending  a  most  interesting  and 
instructive  day  with  Mr.  W.  J.  Unwin, 
who,  as  most  of  our  readers  will 
know,  is  a  Sweet  Pea  specialist  of  no 
mean  order,  and  who  raises  his 
novelties  and  grows  the  bulk  of  his  seed  at  the 
charming  village  of  Histon,  situated  a  few  miUs 
from  Cambridge.  Unfortunately,  the  weather 
was  wet,  but  umbrellas  and  waterproofs  were  at 
haad,  and  by  the  aid  of  these  we  were  enabled 
to  inspest  and  admire  the  many  beautiful  and 
fragrant  Sweet  Peas  that  find  a  home  at  Histon. 
Novelties  naturally  demanded  our  attention 
first,  and  before  deseribing  these  we  must  just 
make  a  brief  reference  to  the  way  in  which  these 
are  brought  into  being  and  the  pitfalls  that 
beset  the  path  of  the  inexperienced  hybridist. 
Thus,  if  two  fixed  varieties  are  crossed,  all  the 
plants  resulting  direetly  from  that  cross  should 
and  will  give  flowers  of  one  colour,  and  the 
novice  may  probably  think  he  has  secured  some- 
thing of  more  than  usual  merit.  Let  him, 
however,  sow  the  seeds  from  these  plants  another 
year,  and  behold  !  a  veritable  mixture  of  colours 
is  the  result,  the  original  colour  of  the  first  cross 
having,  perhaps,  disappeared,  or  if  not  it  will 
appear  only  in  small  quantities.  Two  or  three 
good  novelties  may  appear,  and  providing  they 
are  of  more  than  ordinary  merit,  the  plants  are 
tied  up  carefully  to  the  supports  and  all  others 
pulled  up  and  discarded.  Seed  saved  from  plants 
thus  selected  may,  the  following  year,  be 
expected  to  produce  plants  that  are  true,  and 
should  more  than  10  per  cent,  of  rogues  appear, 
the  variety  is  discarded  as  useless,  unless  it  is 
something  very  special  indeed. 

It  may,  perhaps,  be  of  interest  to  give  the  first 
year's  results  of  a  few  crosses  that  we  saw  at 
Histon.  Thus  Mrs.  Unwin,  a  large  orange-scarlet 
flake,  X  Mrs.  Henry  Bell  gave  a  large,  bright 
pink,  flaked  flower ;  Mrs.  Unwin  x  Helen 
Pierce  gave  flowers  nearly  like  those  of  Hannah 
Dale  or  Black  Knight,  all  possessing  plain 
standards,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  one 
parent  was  a  waved  variety;  Mrs.  Unwin  x 
Clara  Curtis  produced  America  Spencer  ;  Helen 
Pierce  x  Edna  Unwin,  which  is  a  beautiful 
Spencer  or  waved  form  of  Evelyn  Byatt,  gave 
maroon  flowers  ;  and  Nancy  Perkins  x  Unwin's 
Maroon  produced  flowers  of  a  very  rich  chocolate 
colour. 

To  come  now  to  the  novelties,  we  noticed 
some  very  beautiful  flowers  that  are  being 
selected  this  year  as  the  result  of  crosses  made 
two  years  ago  ;  but  it  is  too  early  yet  to  describe 
these.  Among  others  that  we  specially  pre- 
ferred were  a  set  of  Helen  Pierce  crosses,  the 
flowers  of  these  being  veined  in  many  colours, 
just  the  same  as  the  parent  variety  is  veined  or 
marbled  blue,  the  colours  of  the  seedlings  being 
placed  on  both  white  and  cream  grounds.  Then 
there  was  a  Helen  Pierce  Spencer  in  the  course 
of  fixing,  and  a  most  beautiful  variety  it  is. 
A  really  good  dark  blue  waved  variety  has  long 
been  sought  for,  and  Mr.  Unwin  now  has  this 
in  Lord  Nelson  Spencer,  which  is  a  waved  form 
«f  the  well-known  rich  blue  variety.  This  is 
nearly  fixed  and  will  probably  come  quite  true 
next  year.  Edna  Unwin  may  best  be  described 
as  a  very  much  improved  St.  George ;  the 
flowers  are  larger,  richer  in  colour,  the  plants 
more  vigorous,  and  three  or  four  blooms  on  a 
stem  is  the  rule. 

Gladys  Burt  is  a  lovely  variety  that  may  be 
regarded  as  a  cream-ground  Audrey  Crier,  and 
quite  fixed.  Gladys  Burt  is  quite  distinct  from 
Mrs.  Henry  Bell  and  Constance  Oliver,  and  is 
far  and  away  better.  Nor  must  we  forget  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Unwin,  the  beautiful  waved  orange  and 
■white  flaked  variety  that  obtained  an  award  of 
merit  in  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society's  trials 
at  Beading  this  year.  We  must  confess  that 
previous  to  seeing  this  we  did  not  care  for  flaked 


varieties,  but  Mrs.  Unwin  will  find  a  place  in 
our  garden  next  year.  Eric  Harvey  is  a  beauti- 
ful new  one  for  which  Sweet  Pea  enthusiasts  will 
have  to  wait  a  year  or  two.  It  is  a  very  large 
white,  waved  flower  with  an  edging  of  bright 
rose  pink,  the  back  of  the  standard  being  nearly 
entirely  of  this  pink  colour.  We  have  never 
seen  a  prettier  and  more  decorative  variety  than 
this  when  growing.  As  a  garden  Sweet  Pea 
it  will  prove  of  great  value  and,  owing  to  its  size, 
will  be  excellent  for  exhibition  purposes  also. 
Arthur  Unwin,  a  very  large  wav&d  Jeannie 
Gordon,  is  another  pretty  variety  that  calls  for 
mention.  We  might  go  on  referring  to  novelties 
almost  indefinitely  would  space  permit,  but  we 
have  mentioned  enough  to  show  that  Sweet  Pea 
raising  is  being  carried  out  on  a  large  scale  at 
this  Histon  seed  farm. 

Among  what  may  now  be  regarded  as  standard 
varieties  we  noticed  some  splendid  stocks  of 
Constance  Oliver,  Mrs.  Henry  Bell,  Nancy 
Perkins,  Clara  Curtis  (Mr.  Unwin's  strain  of 
this  received  the  only  first-class  certificate 
awarded  in  the  official  trials  at  Beading  this 
year),  Evelyn  Hemus  and  many  others,  and 
evidently  nothing  is  left  undone  that  is  likely 
in  any  way  to  benefit  the  vigour  of  the  plants 
and  the  purity  of  the  strains. 


TREE     WILLOWS. 

I  HLiVE  had  the  happiness  of  seeing  some 
beautiful  woods  of  the  world,  apart  from  those 
of  human  planting,  the  colossal  forests  of  North- 
western America  and  the  Cedars  on  the  moun- 
tains of  North  Africa ;  but,  much  as  I  was 
impressed  by  those  great  trees,  I  now  have  the 
idea  that  from  the  point  of  view  of  beauty  one 
could  hardly  do  better  than  plant  the  Tree 
Willows.  The  movement  of  our  native  white 
Willow  in  the  wind  is  one  of  the  most  graceful 
things,  and  latterly  I  have  been  looking  at  the 
red  Willow  just  before  parting  with  its  silver 
robe  of  summer  for  the  red  attire  of  autumn. 
This  Willow  is  beautiful  in  the  tree  form  every 
month  of  the  year,  and  in  effect  differs  every 
month.  Unhappily,  these  trees  are  rarely 
planted  for  the  sake  of  their  beauty,  and  when 
we  see  them  it  is  from  their  own  natural  repro 
duction  by  the  sides  of  rivers  or  lakes,  and  rarely 
from  deliberate  planting,  yet  in  poor  and  marshy 
ground  nothing  can  give  us  such  good  effect  in 
colour  throughout  the  year.  Sometimes  by 
rivers,  where  these  trees  group  themselves,  we 
see  their  true  effect,  but  how  many  situations 
by  lakes  and  pools  are  wholly  wasted  from 
this  point  of  view.  The  facility  of  increasing 
Willows  from  cuttings  is  such  that  no  attention 
is  paid  to  raising  them  from  seed,  which  may  be 
very  important ;  since,  judging  by  the  analogy 
of  other  things,  cuttings  never  make  such  fine 
trees  as  we  can  get  from  seeds.  And  though  the 
Willows  grow  free  as  grass  from  cuttings,  what 
are  to  be  desired  are  trees  of  great  stature  such 
as  are  seen  occasionally  in  Germany,  France 
and  Britain,  by  the  banks  of  rivers.  Some 
people  say  they  will  not  grow  from  seed  ;  but 
Nature  does  not  give  seed  to  no  purpose,  and 
some  kinds,  like  the  common  Withy,  we  see 
sowing  themselves  too  freely  for  us.  I  have 
scattered  seed  of  the  white  Willow  in  marsh 
fields,  but  owing  to  the  ' '  poaching  "  of  cattle  it 
was  not  a  fair  test,  and  we  shall  try  again  in 
boxes  and  in  some  way  protect  the  seedlings 
from  the  encroachments  of  the  oommon  Withy, 
which  is  very  apt  to  cover  the  ground.  While 
the  summer  effects  of  the  greater  Willows  are 
all  we  need  wish  for,  the  winter  effect  of  the 
red  Willow,  and,  indeed,  all  the  larger  Willows, 
is  very  remarkable.  It  is  seen,  perhaps, 
at  its  prettiest  in  the  fine  days  of  winter, 
and  in  Surrey,  in  the  nursery  region,  the 
red  Willows  grown  for  tying  and  cut  down  every 
year  to  encourage  fresh  growth  are  very  brilliant 
in  effect ;  but  that  practice  is  not  necessary  in 
landscape  planting,    as  the    colour  of  the  red 


Willow  when  allowed  to  take  the  tree  form  is 
also  very  good. 

Willows  are  a  great  aid  to  the  landscape 
planter.  Some  years  ago  I  had  to  deal  with  a 
pond  in  which  a  retaining  bank  was  so  ugly  and 
stiff  that  it  was  difficult  to  get  rid  of  its 
awkwardness,  until  I  took  a  bundle  of  white 
Willows  and  put  them  across  the  bank  and 
round  at  the  corners.  After  some  years  of  this 
growth  all  the  stii&ess  and  ugliness  has  dis- 
appeared. The  white  Willow  (Salix  alba)  is 
the  queen  of  the  tree  Willows  for  our  islands,  and 
we  see  evidence  of  its  beauty  everywhere.  There 
are  one  or  more  varieties  of  it  with  brighter 
colour,  but  they,  like  most  varieties  of  forest 
trees,  are  distinctly  inferior  to  it.  It  is  a  valu- 
able timber  tree,  and  people  are  now  planting  it 
for  that  reason  ;  but  here  we  are  only  coneerned 
with  the  beauty  of  things,  and  we  have  rarely  seen 
it  planted  for  its  effect.  The  effect  of  it  in  wind 
is  as  goad  as  that  of  any  Olive  tree,  and  no  tree  is 
quite  so  useful  for  concealing  awkward  lints  or 
banks,  which,  unfortunately,  often  occur  near 
artificial  water.  It  is  a  rapid  grower,  and 
saplings  a  few  feet  high  will  make  good  trees  in 
fifteen  to  eighteen  years  ;  but  to  get  its  great 
dignity  much  more  time  would  be  needed.  Like 
all  Willows,  it  is  usually  planted  from  cuttings  ; 
I  have  often  wished  it  were  otherwise.  Seed  of 
it  is  offered  by  the  great  seed  houses,  and  it 
should  be  raised  in  boxes  or  in  some  way 
screened  from  the  seeds  of  other  Willows,  which 
abound  in  the  air  in  some  places.  But  however 
raised,  it  should  be  grouped  and  massed  where 
possible,  the  effect  of  a  group  being  much  better 
than  that  of  single  trees,  although  singly  it  is 
very  striking  too.  The  Willows  known  as 
Bedford  and  Huntingdon  are  thought  to  be 
varieties  or  hybrids  of  this,  and  are  worth 
planting  for  effect.  But  whether  planted  in 
woodland  or  in  wet  or  marshy  places  or  beside 
rivers,  everywhere  it  helps  us  with  its  fine  effect. 
The  finest  trees  of  it  I  have  seen  are  by  river 
banks,  and  I  have  often  thought  that  those  were 
seedling  trees.  Where  planted  within  reach  of 
browsing  animals  it  is  better  to  fence  for  a  few 
years.  For  the  landscape  planter  the  white 
Willow  may  be  used  like  a  magician's  wand  to 
give  fine  effects  in  marsh  or  rich  bottom  laud. 
It  is  fearless  before  the  northern  ocean  winds, 
and  nowhere  better  than  in  our  cold  eastern 
lands.  There  are  various  forms,  and'some  wild 
ones  that  are  interesting,  such  as  cserulea, 
latifolia  and  viridis,  and  a  few  others  described 
by  Anderson  and  others,  but  probably  few 
of  them  are  in  cultivation  or  obtainable  in 
nurseries.  Botanists,  who  have  a  point  of 
view  quite  different  from  that  of  the  planter, 
class  the  red  Willow  as  a  form  of  alba,  and 
very  likely  in  herbaria  it  looks  so ;  but  for 
our  purpose  the  red  Willow  should  have  a 
distinct  name.  What  is  the  good  of  names  if 
they  do  not  mark  distinctions  for  us !  and  the 
red  Willow  is  so  distinct  in  colour  and  stature. 
There  are  hybrids  of  alba,  with  the  Babylonian 
Willow  and  others,  and  all  these  would  be  worth 
planting  by  those  who  have  suitable  ground  by 
river  banks. 

The  Bed  or  Tallow  Willow  (S.  vitellina). — In 
most  books  on  botany  this  is  classed  as  a  form  of 
alba,  but  the  two  are  quite  distinct.  The 
Willow  vitellina  by  lake  and  rivers  is  a  beautiful 
tree  and  more  effective  in  winter  than  the  white 
Willow  or  indeed  any  other.  Its  forms  are 
equally  precious  from  the  planter's  point  of  view, 
especially  the  scarlet  form.  Some  eighteen  years 
ago  I  planted  a  colony  of  it,  and  their  beauty  is 
striking  at  all  times.  It  rapidly  forms  a  tree  over 
40  feet  high,  even  from  the  saplings  we  get  in 
nurseries.  The  form  called  britzensis,  which  is  so 
much  used  for  tying,  is  very  effective  if  cut  down 
every  year  as  in  nurseries,  for  the  sake  of  its  strong 
and  elastic  shoots  for  tying,  but  the  tree  allowed 
to  grow  naturally  is  fine  in  colour.  The  old 
practice  of  using  this  tree  for  tying  fruit  trees  to 
walls  and  many  others  suitable  for  ties  in  the 
garden  should  never  have  been  given  up,  as  it  is 


Vlll. 


THE     GARDEN. 


[October  2,  1909. 


a  better  and  prettier  way  than  using  tarred 
twine  or  anything  of  the  kind.  The  amount  of 
work  this  tree  does  in  the  nurseries  of  Europe  is 
astonishing,  and  even  for  tying  big  orates  and 
baskets  it  is  better  than  strong  wire.     .     .     . 

Weeping  Yellow  Willow. — There  is  a  form  of 
vitellina  called  vitellina  pendula,  which  is  a 
variety  of  the  yellow  or  wild  form,  but  more 
weeping  in  habit.  It  is  a  very  elegant  tree,  and 
I  have  several  plants  of  it,  but  not  in  the  best 
conditions  for  it  as  regards  soil.  Some  of  them 
do  very  well,  but  some  in  a  very  hard  spring 
seem  a  little  touched  with  cold.  It  is  a  most 
valuable  tree  and  worth  planting.  The  twigs 
hang  down  like  whipcord.  To  try  it  fairly  it 
should  be  planted  in  Willow  soil,  i.e.,  deep  earth 
beside  water. 

The  Crack  Willow  (S.  fragilis). — This  is  not  so 
fine  in  colour  as  the  white  Willow  and  attracts 
much  less  notice.  It  is  very  common,  and  by  the 
banks  of  the  Trent  and  other  rivers  there  are 
often  many  picturesque  old  trees  of  it.  .  .  . 
There  are  certain  aspects  of  this  Willow  which 
are  of  great  interest  from  the  point  of  view  of 
its  usefulness. 

Babylonian  Willow  (S.  babylonioa). — A  very 
graceful  form  of  the  Babylonian  Willow  is 
S.  ramulis  aurea,  one  which  is  said  to  be  the  best 
of  the  drooping  Willows. 

S.  blanda,  S.  Salamonii,  S.  elegantissimum  and 
the  black  Willow  (Salix  nigra)  are  also  named. 
These  are  all  the  Willows  known  to  us  with  any 
claim  to  tree  dignity.  Let  us  hope  that  explora- 
tions in  China  and  Manchuria  will  add  to  their 
number. — Country  Life. 


SOCIETIES. 

ROYAL  HOKTICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 
A  DELIQHTFFL  display  of  flowers  was  to  be  seen  at  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meeting  on  Tuesday  last,  but 
owing  to  the  wet  weather  there  were  few  visitors.  Hardy 
flowers,  fruit  and  other  seasonable  displays  ftiled  the  hall. 
Floral  Committee. 

Present:  Mr.  W.  Marshall  (chairman),  Messrs.  William 
Bain,  W.  J.  James,  W.  P.  Thomson,  J.  T.  Bennett-Poe, 
Charles  E.  Pearson,  H.  B.  May,  C.  T.  Druery,  James 
Walker,  J.  Green,  William  Cuthbertson,  G.  Reuthe,  J.  F. 
McLeod,  R.  Hooper  Pearson,  A.  Turner,  R.  W.  Wallace, 
R.  C.  Reginald  Nevill,  W.  A.  Bllney,  E.  A.  Bowles,  J. 
Hudson.  E.  T  Cook,  E.  H.  Jenkins,  C.  Blick,  A.  Kingsmill, 
J.  W.  Barr,  George  Paul  and  the  Rev.  F.  Page-Roberts. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea, 
brought  a  very  interesting  and  beautiful  lot  of  the 
recently  introduced  Vines  from  China,  some  sixty  species 
and  varieties  being  included  in  the  exhibit.  To  a  large 
number  of  these  things  a  great  value  attaches,  by  reason 
of  their  adaptability  for  pergolas,  arbours  and  similar 
structures,  while  not  less  important  are  some  of  them 
because  of  a  brilliant  colouring,  which  renders  them  in 
autumn-time  absolutely  unique.  Of  those  whose  vivid 
colouring  at  the  moment  command  attention,  we  may 
instance  Vitis  henryana,  Coignetiseand  Thunbergii,  perhaps 
the  most  brilliant  of  all.  Others  distinct  of  leaf  and 
growth  are  V.  vinifera  purpurea,  V.  armata,  V.  hetero- 
pbylla  striata  (very  neat),  V.  flexuosa  Wilsoni  (with 
shining,  ovate,  acutely  pointed  leaves  of  medium  size),  V. 
bipinnata,  V.  Romaneti  (very  handsome),  V.  glabra  and 
V.  citruUoides.  The  collection  was  grouped  to  a  certain 
extent,  and  early  plants  with  coloured  leaves  were  in  this 
way  displayed  side  by  side  with  younger  examples  still  in 
the  heyday  of  their  beauty  and  greenery.    Gold  medal. 

Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay,  brought  a  briglit  and 
well-grown  lot  of  the  early-flowering  Chrysanthemums, 
showing  the  value  of  these  indispensable  flowers  in  the 
early  autumn  border.  Mme.  Desgranges  and  its  yellow 
sports,  the  rich  yellow -flowered  Polly,  Horace  Martin, 
Caledonia  (white),  Goacher's  Crimson,  Mrs.  W.  Sydenham 
(crimson),  Nina  Blick,  Carrie  and  others  were  admirably 
displayed  in  large  bunches.     Silver  medal. 

Messrs.  G.  and  A.  Clark,  Limited,  Dover,  brought  a 
variety  of  good  hardy  plants  in  flower,  the  more  con- 
spicuous being  Cimicifuga  simplex,  very  fine,  together  with 
Rudbeckia  Autumn  Glory,  Kniphofia  gigantea,  a  most 
brilliant  variety,  together  with  Lobelias  of  the  cardinalis 
and  fulgens  types,  very  finely  flowered. 

Mr.  G.  Reuthe,  Keston,  had  a  showy  group  of  hardy  cut 
flowers,  among  which  the  Michaelmas  Daisies,  Montbretias 
and  varieties  of  Lilium  auratum  were  seen  to  advantage. 

The  group  of  Roses  from  Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Son, 
Waltham  Cross,  was  among  the  leading  features  of  the 
show,  and  in  its  way  constituted  a  negative  to  the  oft- 
repeated  inclemency  of  the  year.  The  recently  held 
autumn  exhibition  of  the  National  Rose  Society  played  its 
own  part  in  the  same  direction,  and  here  again  have  we  had 
afforded  the  best  possible  proof  of  the  value  of  the  Rose 
as  an  autumn  flower.  Charming,  delightful,  exquisite ; 
these  are  some  of  the  phrases  which  one  might  reasonably 
employ  upon  seeing  so  fine  &  lot,  and  the  lesson  cannot  be 


given  in  vain.  We  do  not  intend  to  give  a  catalogue  of 
names,  though  we  may  give  a  few  for  the  benefit  of  our 
readers.  Betty  was  seen  in  great  form,  while  Earl  of 
Warwick,  Pharisaer,  Margaret  (a  delightful  pink),  Mme, 
Ravary,  Maurice  de  Luze,  Joseph  Hill,  Prince  de  Bulgaria, 
Hugo  Roller,  Lyon  Rose  (an  exquisite  thing  in  colour  and 
form),  Mme.  Antoine  Mari,  Le  Progr^s  (a  lovely  coloured 
Rose)  and  Mme.  Paul  Varin-Bernier  (a  lovely  apricot 
with  exquisitely  formed  flowers)  were  among  the  best 
in  a  superb  lot.     Silver-gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  Frank  Cant  and  Co.,  Colchester,  brought  a 
glorious  display  of  Roses,  arranging  them  in  vases  in 
superb  style.  The  Lyon  Rose  was  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able, while  Dorothy  Page-Roberts,  Betty,  Mrs.  Theodore 
Roosevelt,  Le  Progrds,  Irish  Elegance,  Mme.  Leon  Pain 
(very  fine),  Ecarlate,  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  M.  Paul 
Led6  (an  exquisite  flower)  and  Warrior  were  amoug  the 
flnest  in  a  really  grand  lot.     Silver-gilt  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Sons,  Highgate,  had  an  excel- 
lent exhibit  of  Carnations  and  hardy  flowers,  the  former 
including  all  that  is  good  in  these  plants,  and  the  latter 
embracing  the  most  seasonable  of  a  very  popular  race, 
such  as  Phloxes,  Michaelmas  Daisies,  Kniphoflas,  Poteu- 
tilla  Gibson's  Scarlet,  Pentstemona  and  other  plants.  The 
scarlet  calyces  of  Physalis  Franchetti  were  very  flnely 
displayed.     Silver  medal. 

Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons  displayed  an  excellent  group 
of  hardy  Ferns,  particularly  of  the  varieties  of  Polypodium 
vulgare,  such  excellent  sorts  as  elegantissima  and  cambri- 
cum  making  a  fine  group  in  themselves.  Veronicas  in 
many  good  kinds,  also  Salvias  and  Bouvardias,  were  well 
shown.    Silver  medal. 

Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Colchester,  brought  a  very 
fine  lot  of  Roses,  of  which  Ma  Capucine,  Mme.  Charles, 
White  Killarney,  Lady  Waterlow,  Lady  Reay  (pink), 
Gottfried  Keller  (single  yellow)  and  Irish  Elegance  were 
very  charming.  The  new  seedling  Claudius  (bright  glow- 
ing rose)  was  also  well  shown,  and  in  addition  to  its  fine 
colour  the  variecy  is  remarkably  sweet-scented.  It  appears 
quite  an  acquisition.    Silver  medal. 

Mr.  Clarence  Elliott,  Six  Hills  Nursery,  Stevenage, 
brought  Michaelmas  Daisies  and  other  good  hardy  fiowers. 
Anemones,  Arundos,  Phygelius  capensis  and  Coreopsis 
rosea,  a  very  pretty  plant,  were  also  shown. 

Messrs.  H.  J.  Jones,  Limited,  Lewisham,  brought  a  very 
select  lot  of  Michaelmas  Daisies,  arranging  them  with 
excellent  taste  on  a  white  ground.  There  were  many 
fine  varieties,  but  we  take  the  following  as  the  most 
distinct :  Hilda  Morris,  light  blue,  4  feet ;  Mrs.  Day,  pink, 
3  feet ;  Finchley,  white,  large,  3  feet,  very  fine  ;  Decima, 
white,  medium  sized,  elegant  in  spray  ;  Mrs.  S.  T.  Wright, 
rose  magenta  :  Lil  Fardell,  rose,  very  fine ;  Mrs.  Frank 
Brazier,  mid-blue ;  and  Mrs.  Twlnan  and  Mrs.  Huson 
Morris  representing  the  early  and  late  pink-flowered 
forms.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Mr.  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond,  had  a  capital  display  of 
Clematises  in  baskets,  and  in  another  direction  the  firm 
also  set  up  a  very  interesting  series  of  hardy  Heaths. 

Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons,  Crawley,  brought  a  very  fine 
exhibit  of  Cactus  and  Pompon  Cactus  Dahlias,  together 
with  Pompon  and  many  delightful  single- flowered 
varieties.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Phloxes,  Pentstemons,  early-flowering  Chrysanthemums, 
Michaelmas  Daisies  and  the  like  were  very  flnely  shown  by 
Messrs.  William  Wells  and  Co.,  Merstham,  Surrey,  the 
Phloxes  being  particularly  flue.      Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Gunn  and  Sons,  Olton,  near  Blrmiagham,  brought 
an  admirable  lot  of  Viola  cornuta  atropurpurea,  which, 
with  the  white  and  pale  mauve  blue  varieties,  made  a 
singularly  effective  group. 

Messrs.  T.  S  Ware,  Limited,  Feltham,  brought  a  very 
fine  exhibit  of  Dahlias,  arranging  them  with  skill  and 
judgment.  The  several  sections  of  the  flowers  were  seen 
to  advantage. 

Mr.  Charles  Turner,  Slough,  brought  a  very  interesting 
exhibit  of  Cactus,  Pseony-flowered,  Pompon,  show  and 
fancy  Dahlias,  arranging  them  admirably  in  their  respec- 
tive sections.  The  yellow  Pseony-flowered  Dahlia  Geisha 
was  a  conspicuous  feature  of  the  grroup,  and  with  its 
petals  coloured  crimson  at  their  bases  attracted  much 
attention.  Some  superbly  coloured  seedlings  also  of  this 
type  were  well  shown.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Mr.  W.  Leggett,  Colchester,  brought  a  delightful  group 
of  Roses,  the  vases  of  Mme.  Leon  Pain,  Bessie  Brown, 
Countess  of  Caledon  and  Hugh  Dickson  being  particularly 
fine. 

Mr.  W.  Treseder,  Cardiff,  also  displayed  Roses  in  a 
delightfully  fresh  manner,  many  of  the  flowers  being  of  a 
high  standard  of  exhibition  excellence.  Mr.  Treseder 
also  displayed  an  admirable  lot  of  Dahlias,  chiefly,  how- 
ever, of  the  Cactus-flowered  forms.  Silver-gilt  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  Stredwick  and  Son,  St.  Leonards,  staged  Cactus 
Dahlias  in  their  own  inimitable  way,  the  numerous  varie- 
ties representing  the  highest  perfection  yet  seen  in  these 
flowers. 

Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  Covent  Garden,  had  a  display  of 
hardy  flowers,  in  which  Gladioli,  Kniphoflas,  Montbretias 
and  Michaelmas  Daisies  were  seen.  The  earliest  of  the 
autumn  Crocuses  and  the  white-flowered  form  of  Colchicum 
speciosum,  together  with  Vallota  purpurea,  were  all  well 
shown. 

From  Colchester  Messrs.  Wallace  and  Co.  brought  an 
excellent  group  of  hardy  fiowers,  of  which  the  Montbretias, 
Kniphoflas  and  the  Amellus  section  of  the  Michaelmas 
Daisies  were  noteworthy  items.  Pentstemon  Myddleton 
Gem,  the  hybrids  of  Gladiolus  primulinus  and  the  white 
and  coloured  Colchicum  speciosum,  C.  s.  album,  C.  Born- 
miilleri  and  C.  giganteum  were  all  well  shown. 

Messrs.  Garraway,  Durdham  Down,  Bristol,  exhibited 
their  Tea  Rose  Teresa  Bevan,  which  is  very  charming  in 
salmon  and  deepest  apricot. 


Messrs.  J.  Burrell  and  Co.,  Cambridge,  brought  a  very 
flue  display  of  seedling  Gladioli,  the  strain  representing  a 
great  variety  of  colour  in  these  plants.  The  flrm  also 
brought  an  excellent  lot  of  Roses  and  Dahlias,  each  in 
great  variety  and  much  beauty.  Silver-gilt  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  Backhouse  and  Son,  York,  brought  autumn 
Croci  and  the  lovely  Colchicum  speciosum  and  its  pure 
white  variety,  the  last-named  one  of  the  most  valuable 
autumn-floweriog  plants  of  recent  years. 

Messrs.  Carter  Page  and  Co.,  Loudon  Wall,  fllled  a  full- 
length  table  with  Dahlias,  chiefly  of  the  Cactus-flowered 
section,  a  smaller  gathering  of  single  and  Pseony-flowered 
varieties  being  also  staged.  The  group  was  finely  arra  nged 
and  of  a  most  representative  character.    Silver  medal. 

Mr.  Frank  Brazier,  Caterham,  had  an  excellent  display 
of  Phloxes,  Michaelmas  Daisies  and  early  flowering  Chry- 
santhemums, the  group  being  well  arranged  and  the 
flowers  of  good  quality. 

Mr.  J.  T.  West,  Brentwood,  had  a  capital  exhibit^  of 
Cactus  and  Pompon  Dahlias,  many  excellent  varieties' 
being  noticed  in  a  very  fine  lot.     Silver  Bduksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Paul  and  Sons,  Cheshunt,  brought  a  very  flue 
lot  of  trees  and  shrubs,  some  in  pots  and  others  in  the 
cut  state,  the  very  complete  collection  of  these  affording 
much  interest  and  attraction  to  the  large  number  of 
visitors.  Hydrangeas,  Yuccas,  Rubus  laciniatus,  Euony- 
mus  latifolius  and  other  things  being  prominent.  Silver- 
gilt  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  McGredy  and  Son,  Portadown,  Ireland,  had  & 
lovely  lot  of  Roses  in  the  entrance  hall,  of  which  Mrs. 
Arthur  E.  Coxhead,  Lucy  Williams  (shell  pink).  Mrs.  Amy 
Hammond  (flesh).  Countess  of  Gosford  (pink)  and  Olive 
Plews  were  delightful  varieties.     Silver  Flora  medal. 

Mr.  G.  Lange,  Hampton,  exhibited  a  good  piuk-fiowered 
Carnation  named  May  Day,  which  is  very  charming. 

A  magnificent  specimen  plant  of  Platycerium  Alcicorne 
came  from  Miss  S.  G.  Abethall,  Colney  Hatch  Lane, 
Muswell  Hill,  N.  (gardener,  Mr.  Cooper). 

Roses  were  shown  by  the  Rev.  L.  Chalmers-Hunt, 
Hitchin  ;  and  the  Misses  Hopkins,  Shepperton-on-Thames, 
displayed  hardy  flowers. 

Mr.  Seale,  Sevenoaks,  had  a  remarkable  table  of  Dahlias, 
in  which  all  sections  of  the  flower  were  admirably  repre- 
sented. The  arrangement,  too,  was  excellent,  and  gave 
an  idea  of  the  artistic  merit  and  value  of  these  things. 
Silver  Flora  medal. 

*,*  Owing  to  the  demand  made  on  our  apa^ce  \ve  are 
compelled  to  hold  over  the  reports  of  the  Orchid  and  JVutt 
ayid  Vegetable  Committees  until  next  week. 


SEfEFFIELD    CHRYSANTHEMUM    SOCIETY. 

This  society  held  Its  special  show  in  the  Corn  Exchange 
on  Friday  and  Saturday,  the  17th  and  18th  ult,  the  exhi- 
bition being  the  result  of  a  desire  to  introduce  classes 
for  early-flowering  Chrysanthemums  and  other  flowers  that 
cannot  be  arranged  for  at  the  usual  November  show.  The 
schedule  contained  eighteen  classes  (two  being  open). 
Upwards  of  100  exhibits  were  staged,  and  from  an 
exhibition  point  of  view  fully  justifled  the  committee's 
efforts,  although  the  attendance  was  not  all  that  oould  be 
desired.  The  trade  exhibits  were  of  an  exceptionally 
high  character,  in  the  opinion  of  many  exceeding  any 
previous  exhibition  they  had  seen  staged  in  Sheffield. 

Messrs.  W.  Artindale  and  Son  were  awarded  a  large  gold 
medal  for  a  very  flne  and  extensive  exhibit  covering  50O 
square  feet  and  comprising  choice  hybrid  Gladioli, 
early-flowering  Chrysanthemums,  Dahlias,  Liliums  and 
other  flowers.  Messrs.  Seagrave  and  Co.  were  awarded  a 
gold  medal  for  a  flne  stand  of  early-flowering  Chrysanthe- 
mums, Dahlias  and  plants.  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons, 
Reading,  were  awarded  a  gold  medal  for  a  flne  and  attrac- 
tive stand  of  flowers,  fruit  and  vegetables  ;  this  exhibit  was 
very  much  admired,  both  for  the  flne  specimens  displayed 
and  for  the  pleasing  way  in  which  they  were  arranged. 

Messrs.  Dobbie  and  Co.,  Rothesay,  had  a  fine  exhibit  of 
Dahlias  and  Chrysanthemums,  with  an  additional  stand  of 
Potatoes.  Gold  medal.  Messrs.  R.  Proctor  and  Son, 
Chesterfleld,  staged  a  flne  stand  of  cut  Roses  comprising 
over  100  varieties.  This  exhibit  was  greatly  admired  and 
gave  pleasure  to  all  who  saw  it.  Gold  medal.  Messrs. 
Pennell  and  Son,  Lincoln,  were  awarded  a  bronze  medal  for 
Dahlias,  Gladioli,  &c.  The  classes  for  flowers  were  weU 
contested. 


SANDHURST,     YATELEY    AND    DISTRICT 
GARDENERS'   ASSOCIATION. 

The  flrst  meeting  of  the  new  session  of  this  associatlOD 
was  held  in  the  Church  Schools,  Sandhurst,  on  Tuesday, 
September  21.  Mr.  L.  Dupond,  the  newly  elected  chair- 
man, presided  over  a  moderate  attendance  of  members. 
Instead  of  the  usual  paper,  two  competitions  were 
arranged.  The  flrst  was  for  under-gardeners,  and  was  for 
the  best-arranged  vase  of  flowers  ;  six  competed,  and 
some  excellent  arrangements  were  produced.  The  first- 
prize  winner  was  Mr.  H.  Rodgers ;  second,  Mr.  C. 
Ritchings  ;  third,  Mr.  C.  Binfleld ;  all  were  of  Sandhurst 
Lodge  Gardens.  The  second  competition  was  open  to  all 
the  members,  and  was  for  the  best-arranged  bowl  of 
flowers.  Here  again  some  splendid  examples  were  shown. 
Mr.  C.  Binfleld  was  adjudged  the  winner,  Mr.  H.  Cooper 
being  second  (both  of  Sandhurst  Lodge  Gardens),  and 
Mr.  W.  H.  Chapman,  The  Gardens,  Hilfield,  Yateley,  third. 
The  judges  were  Messrs.  W.  Townsend,  C.  W.  Goddard 
and  T.  Britnell.  The  flowers  used  were  single  Dahlias 
and  Asters,  with  foliage  and  grasses,  and  were  supplied 
by  Mr.  W.  J.  Townsend,  Mr.  M.  Goddard  and  Mr.  W.  H. 
Chapman,  a  vote  of  thanks  being  accorded  them  and  al30> 
to  the  judges  for  their  services. 


THE  GARDEN,  UClVBt^K  Wft,  lUUy. 


THE 


A    COLOURED   PLATE    IS 
GIVEN  WITH  THIS  ISSUE 


ARDE 


A    WEEKLY 

ILLUSTRATED  JOURNAL  for  GARDEN 

ORCHARD  AND  WOODLAND 


SATURDAY, 


OCTOBER   9th.    1909 


LXXIII.-No.  1977 

as  Secood-class  Matter  at  the  New  York.  N.Y.,  Post  Office 


REGISTERED  AT  THE  GENERAL 
POST  OFFICE  AS  A  NEWSPAPER 
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H.  T.  ROSE  WARRIOR 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  9  1909. 


"^   ALL  STRONG, 
HOME  GROWN  PLANTS. 


Marquise  de  Sinety,  dnarf 
Jessie,  brilliant  ccimsun,  miniature  . 


216  and  3/6  each. 

. .    5/-  each. 


Our  Wonderful  Collection  "  I  "  of  New  Roses. 

EVERY  ONK  A  GENUINE  NOVELTY. 

This  superb  collection  of  the  BEST  18  NEVf  ROSES  in  dwarf  plants 
The  price  of  this  wonderful  collection  is  27/6,  caniiige  ana  packing  free  I ' 
cash  with  order  iwiih  Acme  Labels,  29/61.    The  varieties  are  : — 


Avoca,  H.T. 

Dorothy  Page  Roberts,  H.T. 
Elizabeth  Uarnes,  H.T. 
Harry  Kirk,  H  T. 
Joseph  liowe.  H.T. 
Lady  Helen  Vincent,  H.T. 
Lady  Ursula,  H.T. 
Laurent  Carle,  H.T. 
Lyon,  H.T. 


Madame  I.  W.  Cudde,  H  T. 
Madame  M.  de  Luze,  H.T, 
Mrs.  Aaron   wVard,  H.T. 
Phyllis,  Poly. 
Qui  en  of  Spain,  H.T. 
Renee  Wilmart  Urban,  H.T 
Souv.  of  Stella  Cray,  T. 
■W.  B.  Lippiatt,  H.T. 
William  Shean,  H.T. 


AUTUMN    CATALOGUE,   No.  22.   of    ROSES,    FRUIT,    and 

ORNAMENTAL  TREES,  just  published,  please  send  for  onu 

post  free  on  application  to 

H.  M£RRYWEATHER  &.  SONS.  Ltd. 

(DePT.    2), 

SOUTHWELL.  NOTTS.  Z' 


T/fe  NATIONAL  FLOWER 


Victor  Hugo 
Frau  K.  Druschki 
Duke  of  Edinburgh 
Duke  of  Teck 
General  Jacqueminot 
Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant 
Gustave  Grunerwald 
Killaruey 
Lady  Ashtown 
Marquis  Lita 
ViscounteBS  Folkestone 


The  above 
12  strong  well-grown  Dwarfs,  post  free, 
9/-;  two  dozen,  17/-  :  three  dozen,  24/-. 


CHAMPION 


ROSES 


THE  FINEST  STOCK 
IN    THE    KINGDOM 


FRANK  CANT  &  CO- 

BRAISWICK  ROSE  GARDENS,  COLCHESTER 

Bar        Ouf  Sllustrated  Catalogue  post  free  on  application        'ViB 


IBISH 
ROSES 


By  Appointmknt  Tf* 


H.M.  King  Euwaru  VII. 


ALL     COLLECTIONS    CARRIAGE 

PAID    FOR    CASH    WITH    ORDER  ^^ 

Splendid  Plants 

FROM    THK 

Champion   Irish  Rose  Nurseries 


Collection  A.— 24  Hybrid  Tea  Roses,  selected 
from  the  finest  varieties  only,  including 
many  of  the  newer  varieties  . .  20/- 

Collection  B.— 24  H.P.'s  as  above        ..  15/- 

„  C— 12  Climbing  Roses  for  Pillars 

or  Pergolas      . .         . .  10,- 

„  D.— 12  Climbers  for  Walls. .  10/- 

„  E.— 12  Tea  Roses      ..         ..12/- 

^^  F.— 100  Roses,   H.P.,    H.T..   and 

Tea,  fine  garden  sorts  60,- 


HUGH 
DICKSON 


Royal 
Nurseries 


GARDEN 


:^^< 


No.  1977.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


October  9,  1909. 


CONTBNTS, 


Famous  Rose-raisers 
IN    THE    British 

Isles 489 

:notbs  of  thb  Week 
ForthconiiDg  events      491 
The  late    Mr.   Peter 

Barr 491 

National     Vegetable 
Society 491 

CORRESPONDBNOB 

Raiser     of     Rose 

Ecarlate 491 

Dressing  Rose  blooms    491 
Rose  Chateau  de  Clos 

Vougeot 491 

A    large     Vegetable 

Marrow 491 

Flower  Garden 

Sweet  Pea  chat        ..     492 
The  beginner  in  Rose 

.  exhibiting 492 

Notes  on  newer  Roses      493 
Kosa    Brunonii    (mos- 
chata)  on    a   Surrey 

house 493 

Rose  Warrior        . .     . .     493 
Rose  Garden 
Seasonable  notes     . .     494 


Coloured  Plate 
Rose     Marquise     de 

Sinety      491 

Rose  Dorothy  Perkins 

in  America 405 

Roses  for  decoration  . .  495 

aARDENINO  FOR  BEGINNERS 

Garden,  work  week  by 

week 496 

How     to    propagate 

the  Jasmine  . .     . .  496 

Pentatemons      . .     . .  497 

The  Town  Garden  ..  497 

GARDENING  OF  THE  WEER 

For  the    South   and 

South  Midlands    ..  49S 
For  the  North    and 

North  Mldlanda  . .  49S 

Old  Roses       498 

Roses  in  a  Nottingham- 
shire nursery     . .     . .  499 
Editor's  Table      . .     , .  499 
Answers     to     Corre- 
spondents 
Flower  garden  . .     . .  50(' 
Trees  and  shrubs     . .  600 
Rose  garden      . .     . .  500 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Pot  Roses  with  hybridised  seed-pods      491 

Crimson  Rambler  Roses  over  arches       491 

Musk  Rose  (Rosa  Brunonii)  in  Surrey     493 

Rose  Dorothy  Perkins  in  America 494 

Rose  Marquise  de  Sinety      Coloured  plate 

Rose  Dorothy  Perkins  over  rustic  bridge      495 

How  to  propagate  the  Jasmine 496,  497 

Some  famous  Rose-raisers Supplement 


EDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  TEm 
GARDEN,  and  the  Editor'  invites  readers  to  send  in  qrtestions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  axUhorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  cohcm/ns  a  conspictt'Ous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
vyill  kindly  give  enquirers  the  henejit  of  their  assistance. 
All  com/municatioTis  must  be  written  clearly  on  mie  side 
mily  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  zvill  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,   if  payment   be   desired,    the 

Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  twt  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  m^tst  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
wUl  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offloes:  $0t  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Qa/rden,  W.C* 


FAMOUS    ROSE-RAISERS    IN 
THE    BRITISH    ISLES. 

PROBABLY  at  no  period  of  its  history 
has  the  Rose  enjoyed  greater  popu- 
larity than  in  the  present  day,  and 
we  regard  this  as  a  fitting  time  to 
review  the  labours  of  raisers  in  the 
British  Isles. 

About  fifty  years  have  elapsed  since  the  late 
Mr.  William  Paul  introduced  Beauty  of  Waltham, 
and  to-day  this  fragrant  Rose  is  highly  esteemed. 
Mr.  Paul  was  a  raiser  of  Roses  when  many  of 
those  who  now  carry  on  the  work  were  in  their 
infancy,  and  one  must  admire  the  broad  view 
that  was  taken  of  the  Rose.  Mr.  Paul  did  not 
regard  the  flower  as  for  the  exhibitor  only — 
although  his  many  productions,  such  as  Medea, 
Boadieea,  Sylph,  Pride  of  Waltham,  White  Lady, 
Earl  of  Warwick  and  Dr.  William  Gordon  are 
found  in  nearly  every  winning  box — but  also  for 
the  garden. 

From  Waltham  Cross  have  come  such  gems  as 
Sulphurea,  Corallina,  Warrior,  Enchantress, 
Morning  Glow,  Hugo  Roller  and  Mrs.  Isabelle 
Milner  ;  and  among  the  Hybrid  Teas  we  have 
White  Lady,  Tennyson  and  Earl  of  Warwick, 
the  latter  only  at  the  last  show  of  the  National 
Rose  Society  securing  the  silver  medal  as  the 
best  Hybrid  Tea,  both  in  the  professional  as  well 
as  in  the  amateur  classes.  Attention  was  also 
turned  to  the  rambler  Roses,  some  of  the  results 
being  Waltham  Climbers,  Waltham  Rimbler, 
Waltham  Bride  and  Pink  Rover. 

In  Mr.  Arthur  William  Paul  the  father 
has  left  a  worthy  successor,  who  has  pro- 
duced such  fine  novelties  as  Margaret,  Cynthea, 
Beatrice,  Refulgence,  Fairy  and,  last  but  not 
least,  Juliet,  a  cross  from  Soleil  d'Or,  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  in  the  world  of  Roses. 

No  rosarian  will  deny  that  the  chief  honour 
of  practically  originating  the  popular  Hybrid 
Tea  class  belongs  to  the  late  Henry  Bennett, 
who  has  told  us  he  was  much  interested  in  a 
lecture,  delivered  in  1S69,  by  the  late  Mr. 
William  Paul  before  the  Manchester  Horticultural 
Congress  on  the  "  Improvement  of  Plants  by 
Selection,  Hybridising  and  Cross-breeding, 
having  special  reference  to  the  Hollyhock  and 
the  Rose. "  We  think  Mr.  Bennett  made  an  error 
in  veiling  with  comparative  secrecy  his  method 
of  cross-breeding  ;  it  has  been  abundantly  proved 
since  that  there  is  nothing  in  the  process  of 
cross-fertilising  the  Rose  that  was  not  known  to 
other  flower  hybridisers. 

On  page  491  is  given  an  illustration  of  one  of 
Mr.  Bennett's  cross-fertilised  pot  plants,  upon 
which  may  be  seen  the  ripening  fruit.  The  first 
set    of    Mr.    Bennett's  introductions  were    not 


remarkable,  and  few,  if  any,  are  grown  to  day  ; 
but  in  1882  he  produced  a  Rose  from  which 
subsequent  raisers,  both  at  home  and  abroad, 
have  reaped  a  rich  harvest  of  novelties,  directly 
and  indirectly.  We  refer  to  Lady  Mary  Fitz- 
william.  This  same  year  there  appeared  from 
Mr.  Bennett,  Princess  of  Wales,  Tea-scented  ; 
Countess  of  Pembroke,  Hybrid  Tea  ;  Distinction, 
Hybrid  Tea  ;  Earl  of  Pembroke,  Hybrid  Per- 
petual :  and  Heinrich  Schultheis,  Hybrid  Per- 
petual. 

In  1884  Mrs.  George  Dickson  appeared,  a  Rose 
remarkable  for  its  mildew-proof  character,  and 
Grace  Darling,  which,  strangely  enough,  Mr. 
Bennett  described  as  a  Tea  Rose,  but  which  is, 
perhaps,  a  more  pronounced  Hybrid  Tea  than 
any  of  his  other  productions.  Two  years  later 
followed  Viscountess  Folkestone,  also  described 
as  a  Tea-scented  variety  ;  W.  F.  Bennett,  one  of 
the  most  fragrant  Roses  in  existence  ;  and  that 
stately  Rose  aptly  named  Her  Majesty.  In  1887 
Princess  Beatrice,  Tea-scented,  appeared,  and  the 
same  year  Mrs.  .John  Laing  and  The  Meteor. 
How  proud  the  veteran  must  have  been  of  his 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  a  Rose  almost  without  a  fault  ! 
In  the  words  of  the  Rev.  Foster-Melliar,  "  It  is 
everybody's  Rose,  with,  perhaps,  fewer  imperfec- 
tions than  any  other. " 

Most  worthy  successors  were  found  in  Messrs. 
Alexander  Dickson  and  Sons,  Newtownards, 
Ireland.  Before  the  close  of  Mr.  Bennett's 
career  they  had  begun  cross-fertilising  the  Rose, 
and  introduced  in  188"  Earl  of  Dafferin  and 
Ethel  Brownlow,  and  in  1891  Margaret  Dickson 
and  Mildred  Grant.  Then  followed  in  succession 
such  sorts  as  Marchioness  of  Londonderry,  Mrs. 
R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant, 
Killarney,  Bessie  Brown,  Ulster,  Libertj',  Mamie, 
Dean  Hole,  Betty,  Charles  J.  Grahame,  Countess 
of  Annesley,  Countess  of  Derby,  Irish  Elegance, 
Lena,  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy,  Mrs.  Peter  Blair, 
William  Shean,  Elizabeth  Barnes,  Harry  Kirk, 
Souvenir  of  Stella  Gray,  Mrs.  D.  Jardine,  George 
C.  Waud,  Molly  Sharman  Crawford,  John  Cuff, 
Grace  Molyneux,  Walter  Speed,  Duchess  of 
Wellington  and  many  others;  in  fact,  Messrs. 
Dickson  have  put  into  commerce  as  many  as 
110  varieties  and  obtained  thirty -one  gold  medals 
for  seedling  Roses,  thus  establishing  a  record 
which  they  seem  likely  to  retain  for  many  a  year. 

Mr.  Alexander  Dickson  had  an  excellent 
tuition,  doubtless  from  his  father,  Mr.  George 
Dickson,  a  great  breeder  of  stock,  and  he  has 
been  ably  assisted  by  his  brother,  Mr.  George 
Dickson,  jun.  This  firm  has  produced  more 
exhibition  Roses  than  any  other,  and  it  was 
surely  a  triumph  for  them  this  season  when  they 
won  the  trophy  of  the  year  with  seventy-two 
varieties,  half  of  which  were  their  own  raising. 


490 


THE     GARDEN. 


[October  9,  1909. 


The  firm  of  Paul  and  Son,  Cheshunt,  has  given 
a  splendid  contribution  to  our  collection  of 
British-raised  Koses.  Starting  with  Cheshunt 
Hybrid,  which  was  probably  the  first  British- 
raised  Hybrid  Tea,  Mr.  George  Paul  pro- 
duced such  lovely  sorts  as  Sultan  of  Zanzibar, 
Reynolds  Hole,  Duke  of  Connaught,  and  Rev. 
Alan  Cheales.  Mr.  Paul  has  always  shown  an 
intense  love  for  the  true  garden  Roses,  especially 
those  of  bushy  growth  ;  and  what  garden  is 
there  where  his  Carmine  Pillar  is  not  found,  or 
Dawn,  Mrs.  Paul,  rugosa  repens  alba,  rugosa 
atropurpurea,  rugosa  Rose  Apple  and  Paul's 
Single  White  Climber  V  And  the  species  of  Rose 
have  received  much  attention.  It  is  always 
interesting  in  Rose-time  to  visit  Cheshunt  and 
study  the  wild  Roses  from  other  countries  that 
have  been  collected  there.  Of  late  years  Mr. 
George  Paul  has  had  the  assistance  of  his 
talented  son,  Mr.  George  Laing  Paul,  who  has 
taken  up  the  cross-fertilising  work  with  energy 
and  originality  in  his  aims  and  achievements. 
His  latest  triumphs  are  a  set  of  seedlings  from 
Tea  Roses  crossed  with  wichuraianas,  which 
impart  to  them  a  creeping  growth  with  the 
perpetual  flowering  habit  and  similar  bloom  of 
the  Tea  Rose.  We  consider  these  an  invaluable 
break,  and  it  may  be  the  forerunner  of  many 
other  distinct  crosses.  To  Mr.  George  Laing 
Paul  we  owe  the  raising  of  Una,  one  of  the 
loveliest  of  Briar  Roses  ;  Tea  Rambler,  Psyche, 
The  Lion,  The  Wallflower,  Goldfinch,  Shower 
of  Gold,  Ariel,  Buttercup  ;  and  among  Teas  and 
Hybrid  Teas,  Lidy  Battersea,  Paula,  Nellie 
Johnstone,  &c. 

Mr.  Hugh  Dickson  of  Belfast  has  been  a  most 
successful  raiser  for  the  time  he  has  been  engaged 
in  the  work.  His  Hugh  Dickson  is  acknowledged 
to  be  so  far  the  best  crimson  Rose,  and  the  other 
introductions  are  of  a  very  high  standard  of 
excellence.  This  season  Mr.  Dickson  has  gained 
four  gold  medals  for  new  Roses.  Probably  no 
liose  of  recent  years  has  been  more  admired  than 
Lady  Pirrie,  which  will  have,  undoubtedly,  a 
great  future.  We  give  in  another  place  a 
list  of  the  principal  varieties  introduced 
by  raisers  in  the  British  Isles  ;  but  we  may, 
perhaps,  mention  here  the  following,  which  Mr. 
Hugh  Dickson  has  sent  out,  namely,  J.  B. 
Clark,  Mrs.  Stewart  Clark,  Mrs.  Kirker,  Miss 
Cynthia  Forde,  Simplicity,  Countess  of  Shaftes- 
bury and  Leslie  Holland,  all  of  them  having 
received  gold  medals  of  the  National  Rose  Society. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Chelsea,  have 
contributed  to  the  list  of  beautiful  new  Fvoses. 
Who  will  forget  the  display  made  with  Queen 
Alexandra  and  Eleotra,  two  delightful  ramblers  ! 
and  they  have  introduced  several  famous  species 
such  as  Rosa  Hugonis  and  R.  lucida  plena,  also 
the  Hybrid  Tea  Duchess  of  Edinburgh. 

Comparatively  recent  raisers,  but  nevertheless 
most  successful,  are  Messrs.  S.  MoGredyand  Son, 
Portadown,  Ireland.  We  are  likely  to  hear 
much  of  this  firm  as  raisers  in  the  future,  for  they 
have  a  lovely  strain  of  their  own.  Countess  of 
Gosford  was  their  first  introduction.  Others  of 
their  raising  are  His  Majesty,  Lady  A.  Stanley, 
Mrs.  A.  Tate,  Mrs.  E.  .T.  Holland,  Mrs.  Wakefield 
Christie  Miller,  Mrs.  M.  Linton,  Ethel  Malcolm, 
Earl  of  Gosford  and  F.  W.  Moore. 

Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Colchester,  gave 
us  two  most  welcome  ramblers  in  Blush  Ram  bier 
and  White  Dorothy,  and  a  superb  Rose  is  Ben 
Cant  when  "  caught  right."  Mrs.  B.  R.  Cant, 
Maharajah  and  Nance  Christy  are  excellent 
garden  Roses,  while  exhibitors  speak  well  of 
Claudius,  the  latest  achievement  of  Messrs. 
B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  which  gained  a  gold  medal 
at  the  autumn  show  of  the  National  Rose  Society 
this  year. 

If  Messrs.  Frank  Cant  of  Colchester  had  only 
raised  the  Tea  Rose  Lady  Roberts  their  name 
wouldhave  gone  down  to  posterity.  It  is  exquisite 
in  form  and  in  colouring,  which  is  apricot  and 
white,  a  flower  that  when  once  seen  lives  in  one's 
memory.  The  writer  was  one  of  the  first 
to    see    this     Rose,  and    a    coloured     plate    of 


it,  by  the  late  H.  G.  Moon,  has  been  given  in 
The  Garden.  Nor  need  we  forget  the  other 
sorts  raised  in  the  Braiswick  Nursery,  Muriel 
and  Mrs.  Frank  Cant,  two  Roses  of  great  merit. 

Messrs.  S.  Bide  and  Sons  of  Farnham  raised 
Queen  of  Spain,  which  is  a  grand  Rose  for  a  hot 
season,  but  this  year  it  has  not  been  so  well 
shown  as  it  was  when  introduced.  Mrs.  Sophia 
Neate  will,  we  believe,  prove  a  valuable 
addition. 

The  late  Mr.  Harry  Turner  inherited  the 
florieultural  instinct  of  his  renowned  father,  Mr. 
Charles  Turner,  and  it  was  a  proud  moment  for  him 
when  Her  late  Majesty  Queen  Victoria  inspected 
at  Slough  the  grand  masses  of  Crimson  Rambler, 
which  he  put  into  commerce.  Probably  no  Rose, 
not  even  Mareehal  Niel,  created  a  greater  sensa- 
tion, and  the  firm  contrasted  most  tastefully 
the  somewhat  garish  colour  of  Crimson  Rambler 
with  a  line  of  white  Azaleas  or  some  similar 
plant.  Other  Roses  raised  by  this  firm  were 
Edith  Turner,  and  they  also  introduced  some 
raised  by  the  late  Mr.  Thomas  Laxton.  Of 
recent  years  they  have  turned  their  attention  to 
the  raising  of  seedlings  of  the  Old  Red  Damask 
and  Rosa  macrantha,  and  some  exquisite  gems 
have  been  the  result. 

Messrs.  H.  Merryweather  and  Sons  of  South- 
well have  given  us  a  most  useful  Rose  in  Jessie. 

Mr.  G.  Prince  of  Oxford,  most  famous  of 
rosarians,  has  raised  delightful  sorts — Clara 
Watson,  for  example. 

Hitherto  we  have  confined  our  remarks  to  the 
efforts  of  professional  growers,  but  there  are  a  few 
amateurs  to  whom  Rose-growers  are  under  a  debt 
of  gratitude  for  their  beautiful  productions.  Per- 
haps foremost,  because  a  distinct  line  was  marked 
out,  was  the  late  Lord  Penzance.  He  demon- 
strated what  it  was  possible  to  achieve  when  the 
raiser  was  filled  with  a  real  love  of  the  Rose  and  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  the  flower,  for  he  has 
left  behind  imperishable  examples  in  his  Hybrid 
Sweet  Briars. 

A  very  successful  amateur  was  B.  B.  Postans, 
Esq.,  of  Brentwood.  We  are  not  aware  that  he 
cross-fertilised  his  Roses  :  if  not,  he  had  some 
remarkable  successes  from  promiscuous  seed- 
sowing,  for  Duchess  of  Bedford,  Countess  of 
Rosebery,  Lady  Sheflield,  Red  Gauntlet  and 
others  were  the  fruits  of  his  labour. 

The  late  Thomas  Laxton  of  Bedford  is  probably 
more  remembered  as  a  sueoessful  raiser  of  culinary 
Peas  and  Strawberries  ;  but  he  raised  the  Rose 
Charles  Darwin,  a  variety  grown  even  to-day, 
also  Dr.  Hogg,  Mrs.  Harry  Turner,  Mrs.  Laxton, 
Prince  of  Wales,  Marchioness  of  Exeter,  Annie 
Laxton  and  Mrs.  Laxton. 

Another  amateur  who,  happily,  is  now  with  us, 
namely,  Dr.  J.  Campbell  Hall,  has  been  most 
successful  in  raising  a  gold  medal  variety,  Mrs. 
Campbell  Hall.  He  also  raised  Lady  Rossmore 
and  Sheila  Wilson,  the  latter  a  charming  variety 
after  the  style  of  Carmine  Pillar.  Mr.  Hill 
Gray,  one  of  the  most  earnest  of  rosarians, 
raised  the  exquisite  Alister  Stella  Gray. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  I  ireat  Britain  is  well 
to  the  front  in  the  matter  of  Rose-raising,  and 
we  welcome  the  friendly  rivalry  among  the 
various  raisers,  believing  it  will  lead  to  even 
greater  triumphs.  We  also  venture  to  express  a 
desire  that  they  may  ever  keep  in  mind  the 
valuable  attribute  of  fragrance,  without  which 
the  Rose  loses  much  of  its  charm. 

The  List. 

Agate,  Wich.  T. ,  Paul  and  Son. 
A.  H.  Gray,  T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 
Albatross,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Alice  Grahame,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 
Alice  Lindsell,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 
Alister  Stella  Gray,  Nois.,  A.  H.  Gray. 
Althea,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Amber,  Wich.  T.,  Paul  and  Son. 
American  Pillar,  Hybrid,  Cannell. 
Amy  Robsart,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 
Anne  of  Geierstein,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 
Annie  Laxton,  H.P.,  Laxton. 


Ards  Pillar,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Ards  Rambler,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Ards  Rover,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Arethusa,  China,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Ariel,  Hybrid,  Paul  and  Son. 

Atropurpurea,  Bug. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Aurora,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Avooa,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Beatrice,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Beauty  of  Waltham,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Bellefleur,  Single,  Prince. 

Ben  Cant,  H.P.,  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons. 

Beryl,  T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Bessie  Brown.  H.T. ,  A.  l>ickson  and  Sons.  • 

Bessie  .Johnson,  H.P. ,  Curtis. 

Betty,  H.T.,  A    Dickson  and  Sons. 

Black  Prince,  HP.,  W.  Paul  and  Son 

Blush  Rambler,  Mult.,  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons. 

Boadicea,  T. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Bob  Davison,  H.P. ,  A    Dickson  and  Sons. 

Brenda,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Brightness  of  Cheshunt,   H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Brilliant,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Buttercup,  Mult. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Captain  Hayward,  H.P. ,  Bennett. 

Carmine  Pillar,  Single,  Paul  and  Son. 

Caroline  d'Arden,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Catherine  Seyton,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Celia,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Charles  Darwin,  H. P.,  Laxton. 

Charles  Gater,  H.  P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Charles    J.   Grahame,  H.T.,  A.   Dickson   and 
Sons. 

Charles  Lamb,  H.  P. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Charm,  Wich.,  Spooner. 

Cherry  Ripe,  H.T.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Cheshunt  Hybrid,  H.T.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Cheshunt  Scarlet,  H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Chin-Chin,  China,  Hobbies. 

Christian  Curie,  Wich. ,  Cocker. 

Clara  Watson,  H.  T. ,  Prince. 

Claudius,  H.T. ,  B.  1!.  Cant  and  Sons. 

Cleopatra,  T.,  Bennett. 

Climbing  Belle  Siebreeht,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and 
Son. 

Climbing  Bessie  .lohnson,  H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Climbing  Captain  Hayward,  H.P.,    Paul  and 
Son. 

Climbing  Devoniensis,  T.,  Curtis. 

Climbing  FrauKarl  Druschki,  H.P. ,  Lawrenson. 

Climbing  Jules  Margottin,  H.P. ,  Cranston. 

Climbing  Kaiserin  Augusta,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Climbing  Lady  Ashtown,  H.T.,  Bentley. 

Climbing  Lady  Moyra  Beauclere,  H.T. ,  Paul 
and  Son. 

Climbing  Liberty,  H.  T. ,  May. 

Climbing  Mile.    Eug(inie  Verdier,  H.P.,  Paul 
and  Son. 

Climbing  Niphetos,  T  ,  Keynes. 

Climbing  Pride  of   Waltham,  H.P.,  Paul  and 
Son. 

Climbing  Victor  Verdier,  H.  P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Clio,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Colonel   R.  S.  WiUiamson,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Corallina,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Corinna,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Corona,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Countess  Cairns,  H.  T. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Countess  of  Annesley,  H.  T. ,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Countess  of  Caledon,  H.T.,  A.   Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Countess  of  Derby,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Countess  of  Gosford,  H.T.,  McGredy. 

Countess  of  Rosebery,  H.P.,  Postans. 

Countess  of  Shaftesbury,  H.T. ,  H.  Dickson. 

Crimson  Bedder,  H.P. ,  Cranston. 

Crimson  Crown,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Crimson  Damask,  — ,  Turner. 

Crimson  Globe,  Moss,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Crimson  Queen,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Crimson  Rambler,  Mult.,  Turner. 

Crown  Prince,  H,P. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Cynthia,  H.T.,  N.  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
( To  be  continued. ) 


OCTOBER    0,  1909.] 


THE  GARDEN. 


491 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

October  12. — Koyal  Horticultural  Society's 
Meeting  of  the  Committees,  12  noon.  Horticul- 
tural Club,  H.  Inigo  Triggs,  F.R.I.B.A.,  on 
"Italian Gardens,"  illustrated  with  lantern  slides. 


The  late  Mr.  Peter  Barr.— Having 
enjoyed  the  acquaintance  of  the  late  Mr.  Peter 
Barr  for  forty  years,  may  I  suggest  that  the 


POT   ROSE    WITH    HTP.KIDISED    SEED-PODS. 
(See  page  /,S.9.) 

memory  of  a  man  so  remarkable  should  be 
fittingly  perpetuated.  Moreover,  if  this  could 
be  done  in  a  way  by  which  great  permanent  good 
might  accrue,  without  appreciable  eacriiioe  by 
those  sharing  in  it,  would  it  not  be  worth  the 
doing?  Assuming  there  would  be  a  large 
measure  of  concurrence  on  those  points,  in  what 
way  could  the  object  be  realised  ?  This  leads  to 
a  definite  proposition,  and  not  the  less  worthy 
of  consideration  as  being  based  on  Mr.  Barr's 
own  efforts  in  the  realisation  of  an  object  which 
all  believe  to  be  good.  The  fact  cannot  in  the 
nature  of  things  be  known  to  all,  or  even  half, 
the  readers  of  these  lines  ;  but  a  fact  it  assuredly 
is,  that  Mr.  Barr's  name  stands  first  on  the  list 
of  the  first  committee  of  the  Koyal  Gardeners' 
Orphan  Fund,  which  he  assisted  in  establishing, 
and  only  those  who  acted  with  him,  including 
the  present  writer  (in  1887),  can  know  how 
zealously  our  deceased  friend  worked  for  the 
accomplishment  of  that  object.  Would  it  not, 
therefore,  be  especially  appropriate  if,  by  a  large 
number  of  small  gifts,  an  adequate  sum  were 
secured  to  endow  a  memorial  in  perpetuity  in 
connexion  with  that  beneficent  charity,  and  thus 
commemorate — in  a  way  we  know  he  would  have 
rejoiced  in — the  honoured  name  of  Peter  Barr  ? — 
J.  Wright,  V.M.H.,  S,  Eosehill  Road,  Wands- 
worth, S.  W. 
National    Vegetable    Society.— A 

committee  meeting  ot  the  above  society  was  held 
on  the  2Sth  ult.  at  the  Hotel  Windsor,  West- 
minster, many  members  being  present,  among 
them  Mr.  A.  Dean,  V.M.H.  (chairman),  G. 
Wythes,  V.M.H.  (trpnaurer),  and  E.  .J.    Quick 


(secretary).  Several  new  vice-presidents  and 
members  were  elected,  and  correspondence 
dealt  with  concerning  the  work  of  the  society. 
The  important  question  of  holding  a  show 
next  autumn  was  fully  discussed,  and  it  was 
arranged  to  hold  an  exhibition  of  vegetables 
if  the  members  will  cordially  support  the  com- 
mittee, and  next  spring  it  is  hoped  to  publish 
the  results  of  the  trials  of  early  Cabbages, 
of  which  due  notice  will  be  given  to  members. 
The  treasurer  gave  the  number  of  new  members, 
and  it  was  also  decided  that  the  financial  year 
should  end  next  Michaelmas.  The  society  is  now 
in  full  working  order  and  must  have  the  support 
of  those  interested  in  this  important  branch  of 
horticulture.  The  secretary  will  be  pleased  to 
forward  rules  and  particulars  on  application  to 
the  following  address :  Kelmsoott,  Harrow 
View,  Wealdstone,  Harrow.  Various  matters 
were  considered  and  others  deferred  until  the 
next  meeting. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  i«  not  responsible  for  the  o/piniom 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

Raiser  of  Rose  Ecarlate.  —  Being 
a  constant  reader  of  The  Garden,  I  notice  thac 
Rose  Ecarlate  is  coming  into  favour.  As  a 
bedding  plant  it  is  hard  to  beat,  being  continu- 
ally in  bloom,  and  the  brilliant  colour  is  very 
effective.  Some  give  as  a  supposed  parent 
Marquise  de  Salisbury,  Camoens,  &o.  ;  they  are 
not  far  wrong.  As  the  raiser  of  it,  I  can  say  that 
the  seed  parent  is  Camoens,  probably  fertilised 
with  General  .Jacqueminot  or  Eugene  Fiirst, 
which  were  close  by  at  the  same  time. — E.  B. 

Rose  Crimson  Rambler.— The  illus- 
tration shows  the  Crimson  Rambler  over  arches 
in  the  garden  of  Mr.  F.  M.  Phillips,  Wrotham 
Park  Hill,  Wrotham  ;  the  effect  of  the  crimson 
colouring  is  very  fine  among  the 
surrounding  foliage. 

Dressing:  Rose  blooms. 

In  reference  to  "D.'s"  letter  on 
"Dressing  Rose  Blooms,"  I  should 
like  to  point  out  that  Rule  7  in  the 
regulations  for  exhibitions  pub- 
lished in  the  National  Rose  Society's 
Arrangements  for  1909  says,  "The 
dressing  of  Rose  blooms  so  as  to 
alter  their  character  is  prohibited. 
A  bloom  so  dressed  will  be  counted 
as  a  bad  bloom."  Also,  Mr.  E.  B, 
Lindsell,  writing  in  the  Rose 
Annual  for  19U9  of  the  19(18  autumn 
show,  says,  "  Messrs.  Cocker  re- 
peated their  victory,  but  the  result 
might  possibly  have  been  different 
had  not  the  second  prize  Roses 
suffered  greatly  from  improper 
manipulation,  an  expression,  to  my 
mind,  more  applicable  than  over 
dressing.  It  is  not  a  question  that 
gives  much  trouble  to  judges  in 
these  days,  but  on  the  occasion  in 
question  they  had  no  option  but  to 
regretfully  pass  over  no  less  than 
five  blooms  as  bad  which,  if  pro- 
perly treated,  should  have  scored 
heavily."  It  would  appear  from 
this  that  the  National  Rose  Society 
does  discourage  the  dressing  of  Rose 
blooms,  and  that  probably  some  of 
the  blooms  described  by  "  D." 
were  counted  as  bad  blooms. — 
E.  W.  Morris,  UcJcfield.  [The 
dressing  of  Rose  blooms  is  not 
countenanced  by  either  the  National  Rose  or  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Societies.  At  a  recent  meeting 
of  the  floral  committee  of  the  last-mentioned  body, 
on  the  proposition  of  Mr.  J.  Hudson  and  seconded 
by  the  Rev.  F.  Page-Roberts,  president  of  the 
National  Rose  Society,  it  was  resolved  not 
to  give   awards    to  any  Rose  that    had    been 


manipulated  in  any  way.  This  is,  of  course, 
sound  commonsense. — Ed.] 

Rose  Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot.— 

I  am  reading  with  a  good  deal  of  interest  Mr. 
Molyneux's  descriptions  and  experiences  of  some 
of  the  newer  Roses,  and  as  far  as  I  have  grown  the 
varieties  enumerated  they  coincide  with  my  own 
with  one  exception.  He  deplores  the  fact  that 
with  him  Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot  is  not  a  good 
grower.  I  should  describe  it  as  a  rampant 
grower,  as  with  me  it  breaks  freely  from  the 
base,  the  shoots  attaining  an  average  length  of 
about  18  inches.  The  stems  are  very  straight 
and  sturdy,  and  the  foliage  a  deep  green  of 
leathery  texture  and  absolutely  mildew-proof. 
A  peculiarity  of  this  variety  is  the  fact  that  most 
of  the  shoots  grow  at  an  angle  of  about  45°  with 
the  base,  which  gives  the  plant  a  dwarf,  spreading 
habit  and  makes  it  eminently  suitable  for  bedding. 
The  blooms  are  certainly  not  up  to  exhibition 
form  or  size,  but  the  colour  is  splendid  and 
maintained  in  all  weathers,  while  the  fully 
expanded  flower  resembles  a  Pseony  and  retains 
its  petals  for  a  long  time.  — B.  W.  Price,  Pods- 
mead  Road,  Oloucester. 

A  large  Vegetable  Marrow.— A 
correspondent  ("E.  O.  F.")  wishes  to  know  what 
we  think  of  a  Vegetable  Marrow  growing  in  his 
garden  ;  it  is  3  feet  10  inches  long,  2  feet  in 
circumference,  and  is  still  growing.  It  must  be 
an  extraordinary  specimen  of  most  abnormal 
proportions,  and  certainly  such  as  we  have  not 
seen  or  heard  of  before. 

LlUum  nepalense  at  Amibleside. 
It  may  interest  some  of  your  readers  to  know 
that  Lilium  nepalense  is  in  flower  here  (North- 
East  Lancashire,  close  to  Westmorland)  now 
(September  24).  It  has  been  open  some  days.  I 
find  that  it  does  quite  successfully  if  it  is  taken 
up  directly  it  has  flowered  and  put  into  a  box  (not 
pot)  and  kept  through  the  winter  in  a  frame. 
It  is  so  handsome  that  it  is  worth  a  little  trouble. 
It  seems  to  be  quite  hardy,  but  this  treatment 


:C^-:^-''''¥.^ 


'f      iV  V 


crimson  rambler  roses  over  arches. 

makes  it  flower  a  little  earlier  and  so  saves  the 
flowers  from  early  frosts.  The  reason  for  putting 
it  in  a  box  is  that  its  roots  start  quite  hori- 
zontally from  the  bulb.  I  do  not  know  under 
what  conditions  it  grows  wild,  but  the  appear- 
ance of  the  roots  suggests  a  forest  Lily  growing 
in  shallow,  rich  leaf-soil. — A.  M.,  Sktlwiih. 


492 


THE     GAEDEN. 


I  October  9,  1909 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

4  UTUMN    SOWING.  —  Just    how    many 

/\  discussions    there    have    been  as   to 

/  %         the    desirability,    or    otherwise,    of 

Z_^L       sowing  seeds  in  the  autumn  instead 

y         %      of  in   the    spring  I  should    be  very 

sorry   to   say.      There    are   numbers 

o£  excellent    growers    who   staunchly  maintain 

that    the    advantages    which    may    accrue    are 

more  than  outbalanced   by  the  disadvantages ; 

while   others    who    achieve    equally    gratifying 

results  affirm  no  less  forcibly  that  autumn  sowing 

is  the  only  system   which   will  bring  complete 

satisfaction.     Then  there  is  a  third  class  which 

sits  comfortably  on  the  fence,  agrees  with  both 

parties  and  proceeds  in  its  own  sweet  way  to 

practise  both  methods.     I  belong  to  the  latter 

group. 

The  advantages  that  follow  upon  autumn 
sowing  may  be  said  to  principally  consist  of 
earlier  flowering  and  a  richer  colour  springing 
from  the  increased  substance,  which  is  doubtless 
due  to  the  superior  rooting  system  developed 
early  in  the  season  by  the  autumn-sown  in  com- 
parison with  the  spring-sown  plant.  The  dis- 
advantages lie  in  the  fact  that  birds,  mice  and 
slugs  will  devour  the  seeds  or  the  plants  if  they 
get  the  chance,  and  in  their  depredations  there 
is  a  wonderful  fatality,  since  they  always  fasten 
upon  the  varieties  that  are  scarce  and  expensive 
and  which  it  is  often  difficult  and  sometimes 
impossible  to  replace  later  in  the  year.  To  the 
troubles  that  are  said  to  be  inevitable  to  the 
autumn  sower  some  people  would  possibly  add 
the  weather  ;  but  I  am  personally  of  the  opinion 
that  this  need  not  cause  the  slightest  worry,  for 
well-grown,  hard  plants  will  stand  through  the 
vast  majority  of  our  winters  without  suffering 
anything  more  serious  than  a  little  check,  and 
this  it  is  difficult  to  avoid  by  all  growers  who 
sow  in  pots,  no  matter  at  what  period  of  the 
year  the  operation  may  be  carried  out.  Assuredly 
the  man  who  works  diligently  on  his  own  account 
and  so  closely  observes  the  results  that  he  can 
come  to  a  definite  conclusion  as  to  which  system 
gives  him  the  more  favourable  results  is  wise, 
and  he  should  not  allow  anyone  to  persuade  him 
to  alter  his  tactics,  at  least  in  more  than  a  purely 
tentative  and  experimental  way. 

A  further  point  in  the  same  relation  that  has 
been  more  or  less  vigorously  argued  is  whether 
the  seeds  should  be  sown  indoors  in  pots  or  out 
of  doors  in  the  positions  where  it  is  desired 
that  the  plants  shall  bloom.  Here  again  the  con- 
trolling factor  should  be  the  individual  grower's 
personal  requirements.  If  he  merely  desires  to 
have  a  row  of  plants  that  will  produce  flowers  in 
advance  of  any  sown  in  the  spring,  then  let  the 
seeds  be  distributed  rather  more  thickly  than  is 
customary  and  risk  the  weather  and  the  natural 
pests  ;  but  should  exhibition  blooms  be  the 
objective,  then  under-glass  sowing  ought  always 
to  be  given  the  preference. 

Still  further  germane  questions  are  at  what 
time  or  times  the  seeds  should  be  sown  either 
out  of  doors  or  in  frames.  As  far  as  the  first 
point  is  concerned,  the  grower  must  be  governed 
largely,  if  not  entirely,  by  the  soil  and  climate 
of  the  garden.  In  an  exceedingly  cold  soil  it  is 
probable  that  September  will  give  the  finest 
results  ;  in  a  loam  or  a  light  clay  October  may 
be  preferred  ;  while  in  a  warm  sand  November 
brings  complete  satisfaction,  provided,  of  course, 
in  all  instances  that  natural  enemies  are  not 
permitted  to  ruin  all  prospects.  In  the  event  of 
pot  sowing  being  decided  upon,  then  it  is  not 
easy  to  find  a  more  generally  suitable  time  than 
from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  October  ;  but  the 
grower  should  clearly  understand  that  it  is 
immaterial  to  a  day,  or  even  a  week,  when  the 
seed-sowing  is  actually  done.  To  fix  upon  a 
hard-and-fast  date,  either  for  indoor  or  outdoor 
work,  is  an  error,  for  one  should  obviously  be 
guided  partially  by   the  weather,   partially   by 


one's  own  convenience,  and  partially  by  the 
time  when  it  is  possible  to  procure  the  new 
seeds. 

In  our  next  "Chat"  the  precise  methods  of 
sowing  both  in  frames  and  in  the  open  garden 
will  be  considered,  and  these  will  be  published 
in  plenty  of  time  for  those  to  adopt  the  recom- 
mendations that  will  be  made  if  they  deem  it 
wise  or  advantageous  to  do  so.  Meantime  they 
can  thoroughly  dig  their  ground  and  wash  all 
pots  until  they  are  scupulously  clean,  so  as 
to  be  in  readiness  for  the  fray.  Incidentally, 
they  can  also  worry  the  specialist  for  their 
seeds.  Spbncer. 


THE     BEGINNER     IN    ROSE 


EXHIBITING. 

A  T  what  point  can  a  Rose  exhibitor  be  said 
/\  to  begin  ?     Does  he  begin  in  public, 

/  %  or  is  his  first  venture  at  a  show  the 
/  ^  outcome  of  a  previous  affection  for 
y  J^  Roses ';  Is  it  not  the  case  that  a 
love  of  Roses  in  the  garden  is  the 
prelude  to  exhibiting  ?  For  the  purpose  of  these 
notes  let  us  accept  the  term  "  beginner "  as 
indicating  one  who  makes  his  first  appearance  at 
•a  show.  Where  can  he  best  be  studied  V  Not, 
surely,  at  an  exhibition  of  the  National  Rose 
Society,  but  at  the  local  show.  At  the  Metro- 
politan exhibition  the  National  Rose  Society 
provides  novice  classes  for  those  who  have  joined 
the  society  during  the  last  twelve  months,  for 
those  who  have  never  won  a  prize,  and  for  those 
who  have  never  won  a  first  prize.  But  the  great 
majority  of  exhibitors  who  compete  in  these 
classes  seemed  to  have  served  their  novitiate 
elsewhere  ;  they  come  to  the  show  with  all  the 
newest  outfit  of  boxes,  tubes  and  supports,  and 
apparently  possessing  a  knowledge  of  a  good 
Rose,  together  with  an  advanced  method  of 
staging.  One  can  hardly  regard  them  as 
beginners ;  they  seem  such  practised  hands. 
No  ;  we  must  go  to  the  local  show  if  we  wish 
to  see  the  real  beginner. 

At  the  local  show  the  beginner  arrives  some- 
what late,  when  the  sun  is  well  up  and  it  is  hot. 
N'ou  will  generally  find  him  under  a  tree  or 
outside  the  tent  on  the  shady  side,  whereas  the 
practised  hand  is  found  in  the  tent,  not  only  out 
of  the  sun  but  out  of  the  wind  as  well,  for  he 
knows  that  the  soft  warm  air  that  flutters  the 
petals  is  almost  as  bad  for  the  Rose  as  is  the 
sun.  See,  the  beginner  has  brought  his  Roses  in 
a  basket,  laid  one  on  the  other,  and  covered  with 
grass  or  Strawberry  leaves.  The  box  is  really  a 
stand,  possibly  a  Chrysanthemum  stand,  just  a 
bare  green  board  on  legs.  The  writer  this  year 
saw  a  green  bottomless  box  perforated  with  six 
small  holes  just  large  enough  to  allow  the  stems 
of  the  Roses  to  go  through.  Six  small  glass 
vases  about  3  inches  high  were  set  out  on  the 
stage,  the  bottomless  box  was  placed  over  the 
vases,  and  the  Roses  were  put  through  the 
several  holes  in  the  box  into  the  vases  hidden 
below.  But  to  return  to  our  beginner  outside 
the  tent.  He  takes  the  Roses  out  of  the  basket 
and  spreads  them  on  the  grass.  Notice  his 
selection — he  chooses  the  largest  flowers,  over- 
blown, rough  and  off  colour  thoiigh  they  may  be 
— a  ragged  Paul  Neyron,  a  flat  Her  Majesty,  a 
quartered  Mildred  Grant,  and,  perhaps  because 
of  its  colour,  an  undersized  bud  of  White  Maman 
Cochet.  The  Roses  are  beginning  to  flag  ;  they 
have  been  cut  the  same  morning,  they  have  not 
yet  been  in  water,  just  brought  straight  away 
from  the  bed  in  the  basket,  and  are  now  placed  in 
the  tubes  without  even  having  their  stems  cut. 
Now  they  are  carried  into  the  tent.  The  space 
has  been  filled  up  ;  but  after  a  shifting  up  closer 
of  other  exhibits,  room  is  at  last  found  for  him. 
Notice  the  staging.  In  some  cases  the  blooms 
rest  on  the  green  board,  not  a  leaf  to  be  seen,  or 
else  a  few  leaves  of  Mrs.  John  Laing  are  carefully 
tucked  round  all  the  Roses  as  a  sort  of  frill,  to 


set  ofi'  the  flowers  as  a  paper  collar  was  once  used 
for  Carnations.  The  names  of  the  Roses,  if 
named  at  all,  are  hastily  written  out  on  slips  of 
paper  and  laid  in  front  of  each  Rose,  or  else  a  single 
sheet  of  paper  with  the  names  of  the  six  written 
in  ink  beforehand  is  pinned  in  front  of  the  box. 
The  Roses  thus  staged  are  now  left  to  chance  ; 
the  exhibitor  has  departed  ;  we  shall  see  no  more 
of  him  until  the  judges  enter  the  tent,  when  he 
will  stand  at  the  tent  entrance  or  peep  through 
an  opening  in  the  canvas.  He  has  gone  into  the 
next  tent  to  give  the  finishing  touches  to  his 
Potatoes,  Carrots  and  Leeks,  over  which,  in 
their  preparation,  he  has  spent  as  many  weeks, 
or  at  least  hours,  as  he  has  spent  minutes  on  the 
Roses.  The  judging  is  over  ;  there  is  no  prize 
ticket  on  his  stand ;  another  has  won.  Now  if  he 
is  a  real  beginner,  if  he  is  in  earnest  and  not  a 
pot-hunter,  he  will  seek  to  know  why  he  did  not 
win.  He  will  become  observant  of  other  people's 
boxes,  tubes,  supports,  moss  and  labels,  the 
height  at  which  the  flowers  are  staged  and, 
above  all,  the  style  of  the  Roses  in  the  first- 
prize  stands. 

But  he  has  more,  far  more,  to  learn  than  what 
can  be  gathered  at  the  show.  Success  lies  not 
so  much  in  the  apparatus,  soil,  climate  and 
numbers,  as  in  the  amount  of  attention  given  to 
the  plants  months  before  the  show  and  to  the 
flowers  as  they  develop.  The  beginner  has  to 
learn  that,  like  the  Sweet  Pea,  Dahlia  and  Chry- 
santhemum, care  must  be  bestowed  on  the 
cultivation  of  the  Rose  ;  but  unlike  the  Sweet 
Pea,  Dahlia  and  Chrysanthemum,  the  Rose  has 
a  very  fleeting  character.  It  is  in  seeming 
failure  to  recognise  this  character  that  the 
beginner  finds  the  Rose  so  difficult  to  exhibit. 
He  does  not  cut  them  at  the  right  stage  ;  a 
flower  in  perfection  on  the  plant  will  probably 
be  over  before  the  judges  come  round.  It  is  a 
case  not  of  what  is,  but  of  what  will  be,  at  a 
given  time  in  the  future. 

And  now  for  a  few  suggestions.  The  beginner 
should  not  only  provide  himself  with  a  box  in 
which  to  stage  his  Roses,  but  an  additional  box 
to  contain  the  extra  blooms.  He  should  make 
himself  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  points 
which  constitute  a  good  Rose.  The  National 
Rose  Society  defines  a  good  Rose  as  follows  : 
"A  Good  Rose.— The  highest  type  of  bloom  is 
one  which  has  form,  size,  brightness,  substance 
and  good  foliage,  and  which  is,  at  the  time  of 
judging,  in  the  most  perfect  phase  of  its  possible 
beauty."  "A  Bad  Rose. — The  following  are 
serious  defects  in  a  Rose-bloom  :  faulty  shape, 
confused  or  split  centre  and  faded  colour  ;  also 
being  undersized  or  oversized  to  the  extent  of 
coarseness  or  overblooraing."  Notice  especially 
that  "form"  is  the  first  essential.  It  is  here 
that  many  beginners  fail ;  they  appear  to  think 
that  no  Rose  can  be  a  good  one  for  exhibition 
unless  it  is  large,  no  matter  how  confused  the 
petals  may  be.  In  cutting  for  exhibition  keep 
the  flowers  in  water  from  the  moment  they  are 
cut ;  if  they  are  out  of  water  a  minute,  cut  the 
stems  again  before  putting  them  in  water. 
Roses  stand  the  heat  of  the  tent  better  if  they 
are  out  overnight  before  the  dew  rises.  Go  early 
to  the  show.  Get  there  before  eight  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  And  when  you  arrive,  be  patient ; 
do  not  get  the  Roses  ready  too  soon.  If  you 
are  staging  six  Roses,  half-an-hour  before  the 
judging  will  be  ample  time  to  set  them  up. 
Often  and  often  has  the  writer  seen  the  prize, 
which  could  have  been  won,  lost  through 
impatience  ;  the  exhibitor  would  not  leave  his 
flowers  alone,  and  by  the  time  of  judging  they 
had  been  worried  to  death. 

But,  after  all,  the  art  of  Rose  exhibiting 
cannot  be  acquired  at  a  single  show,  nor  even  in 
one  year.  As  a  huntsman  knows  his  hounds  by 
name  and  their  individual  characteristics  in  the 
kennel,  in  the  covert  and  in  the  run,  because  he 
is  constantly  with  them,  so  must  the  exhibitor 
know  his  Roses.  He  must  live  among  them,  work 
for  them  and  observe  them,  and,  above  all  else, 
he  must  love  them.       Joseph  H.  Pembbkton. 


October  9,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN 


49^ 


NOTES   ON    NEWER    ROSES. 

V. — Hybrid  Teas. 
(Continued  from  page  4SO. ) 

FRAU  ERNST  B0RSI6  (P.  Lambert, 
1907). — This  is  something  after  the 
style  of  that  good  gardea  Rose  Mme. 
Jules  Grolez,  which,  in  its  own  shade 
of  colour,  has  yet  to  be  beaten  for 
massing  or  bedding,  and  is  by  no 
means  a  large  Rose  ;  bright  yellowish  carmine 
pink  in  colour.       What  a   diflSeult   matter  it  is 


them  pointed  out.  If  any  member  of  the  National 
Rose  Society  has  any  suggestions  to  make,  will 
he  forward  them  at  once,  and  they  will,  I  know, 
receive  due  consideration — all  of  which  is  a  long 
way  from  Frau  Ernst  Borsig,  which  I  am  in- 
clined to  think  is  the  moat  useful  Rose  of  Hen 
Peter  Lambert's  1907  set. 

Florence  Edith  CouUhwaite  (Alex.  Dickson 
and  Sons,  1908). — This  is  a  beautiful  Rose  that 
varies  very  much,  at  times  coming  almost  pale 
yellow  without  any  other  shade.  At  its  best  it 
should  have  a  distinct  flush  of  delicate  rose  pink, 
which  makes  the  flower  quite  distinct.     It  hap 


MUSK  KOSB   (ROSA  ERtJNONIl)   IN  SURREY. 


to  correctly  describe  the  colour  of  a  Rose ;  I 
have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  one  must 
have  the  flower  in  front  of  you  to  do  it 
accurately.  It  is  not  difficult  to  remember 
names,  but  when  it  is  the  exact  shade  of  colour  and 
wherein  it  differs  from  another  shade  of  that  same 
colour  is  quite  another  matter.  Our  catalogues 
leave  much  to  the  imagination  in  this  respect. 
The  official  catalogue  of  the  National  Rose 
Society  contains  not  a  few  errors,  and  as  I 
understand  the  publication  committee  has  now 
a  revision  of  that  book  in  hand  to  be  published  in 
the  autumn,  it  would,  no  doubt,  be  glad  to  have 


not  come  very  large  with  me  this  season,  but  the 
plants  had  no  assistance,  and  being  hit  very  hard 
with  the  frost  never  really  recovered.  I  have 
seen  it  very  fine  ;  it  is  sweetly  scented,  and  of 
that  good  branching  habit  that  ensures  a  flower 
from  every  eye,  that  has  become  typical  of 
Messrs.  Dickson's  pedigree  seedlings. 

Frau  Burgermeister  Kirschstein  (Jacobs,  1907). 
This  is  a  fine,  long  bud  that  appeals  rather  to  a 
button-hole-lover  than  the  exhibitor,  to  whom 
this  Rose  will  remain,  in  all  probability,  unknown. 
Colour,  deep  salmony  carmine  ;  'medium  grower 
and  fairly  free. 


George  G.  Waud  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
1908). — The  remarks  I  made  as  to  the  colour  of 
all  Roses  being  affected  more  or  less  by  this 
season's  heavy  rain  and  being  generally  deeper, 
thereby  losing  some  of  the  delicate  shades  that  a 
normal  season  would  give  us,  in  connexion  with 
Dorothy  Page  -  Roberts  apply  equally  to  this 
Rose,  and  it  is  a  similar  shade  of  copper  or 
orange  that  is  missing.  Those  who  were  present 
at  the  Manchester  show  last  year,  where  a  very 
fine  stand  of  this  Rose  was  put  up  by  the  raisers 
and  where  it  received  the  gold  medal,  will 
remember  the  glow  that  was  apparent  in  the 
flowers.  I  have  not  seen  that  colour  this  year 
either  in  my  own  flowers  or  in  any  of  this 
Rose  that  I  have  come  across  in  the  nursery  or 
exhibition  tent.  Take  it  all  round,  I  am  in- 
clined to  think  this  is  the  best  of  Messrs.  Dick- 
son's 1908  set,  although  it  is  hard  to  say  it  is 
better  than  some  of  the  others.  But  it  is  an 
exhibition  Rose  of  very  fine  colour  ;  it  is  scented 
with  quite  a  distinct  Tea  perfume  ;  it  is  of  good 
habit,  free  enough  to  entitle  it  to  be  called  a 
garden  Rose.  When  you  can  say  that  a  Rose 
has  all  these  points,  not  much  remains,  and  the 
Rose  passes  into  that  class  that  includes  repre- 
sentatives of  Hybrid  Perpetual,  Hybrid  Tea, 
Tea,  China,  wichuraiana  and  all  others,  namely, 
to  use  a  word  that,  I  think,  W.  Robinson  first 
coined  in  this  connexion,  the  "Great"  Roses. 
I  do  not  think  the  raisers  are  claiming  too 
mucl>  for  this  Rose  when  they  state  it  is  one  ot 
the  best  Roses  they  have  ever  sent  out. 

PurUy.  Herbert  E.  Molynedx. 

(To  be  continued.) 


ROSA  BRUNONII    (MOSCHATA) 
ON  A  SURREY    HOUSE. 

The  accompanying  illustration  is  from  a  photo- 
graph kindly  sent  to  us  by  a  correspondent 
who  wishes  to  remain  anonymous.  It  represents 
that  beautiful  and  fragrant  Rose,  R.  Brunonii,  on 
a  Surrey  house  at  6  p.m.  on  a  July  day,  and 
although  it  does  not  do  this  charming  little 
Rose  full  justice,  it  will  give  our  readers  at  least 
some  idea  as  to  its  climbing  and  decorativo 
qualities. 


ROSE     WARRIOR. 

THE  beautiful  Rose  Warrior  illustrate 
on  the  cover  of  The  Garden  this 
week  is  one  of  the  many  introductions 
of  Messrs.  William  Paul  and  Sou  of 
Waltham  Cross.  In  growth  and 
freedom  of  flowering  it  ranks  equal  to 
their  well-known  Corallina,  both  varieties  being 
among  the  most  precious  of  our  decorative  Roses. 
Undoubtedly  the  charm  of  Warrior  is  its  deep 
blood  red  buds,  elongated,  I  think,  more  than 
those  of  any  other  Rose  of  my  acquaintance.  As 
one  enjoys  the  beauties  of  the  buds,  one  is  com- 
pelled to  wish  that  the  colour  were  maintained 
in  the  expanded  flowers.  But  even  though  there 
is  not  the  richness  of  the  buds,  there  is,  however, 
a  beautiful  tint  of  crimson,  which,  seen  in  the 
mass,  makes  a  fine  effect  in  the  garden,  borne  as  the 
trusses  are  on  upright  growths.  As  a  decorative 
pot  Rose  for  the  conservatory  Warrior  has  been 
found  of  much  value,  especially  if  the  plants  are 
not  repotted  every  year.  Providing  they  are  top- 
dressed  in  autumn  and  liberally  fed  with  liquid 
manure  when  the  buds  appear,  plants  in  8-inch 
or  9-inch  pots  will  be  the  better  for  two  or  three 
years  if  the  roots  are  left  undisturbed.  AVarrior 
was  raised  from  Marie  van  Houtte  crossed  with 
Princess  Bonnie.  I  wish  the  latter  delioiously 
fragrant  Rose  had  imparted  its  perfume,  but  I 
suppose  we  must  not  be  too  exacting,  and  it  is 
something  to  obtain  such  a  gloriously  coloured 
variety.  This  Rose  gained  the  silver  medal 
as  the  best  Hybrid  Tea  in  both  divisions 
(nurserymen  and  amateurs)  at  the  recent  autumn 
show  of  the  National  Rose  Society.  P. 


494 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  9,  1909. 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN. 


SEASONABLE    NOTES. 


M' 


VCH  work  must  be  done  among  Roses 
in  October,  and  a  great  deal  of  the 
luture  success  depends  upon  how 
this  is  carried  out.  In  many 
seasons  we  have  liited  the  plants 
during  this  month,  and  when  they 

are  sufficiently  matured  there  can  be  no  better 

time   than    this   and   early  November.      Hybrid 

Perpetual  varieties,  more  especi- 
ally those  upon  the  Manetti  stock, 

are  much  earlier  in  ripening  than 

plants    upon    the   Briar,    and   if 

transplanted  while  the  ground  is 

still  fairly  warm,   new  roots  are 

produced  at  once.     There  can  be 

little  doubt  that  these  are  a  con- 
siderable help  towards  preventing 

any  shrivelling  of  the  wood  dur- 
ing  winter,    for,   although    they 

are  not    in    much   activity  when 

real  winter  weather  sets  in,  they 

are   able   to  supply  sap   to   help 

against  drying  frosts  and  winds. 
All    of  us  must  have  noticed 

how  quickly  an  early  lifted  plant 

produces  new  roots  when  "laid  in 

by  the  heels"  for  a  short  time.    I 

would  call   attention   to   this   in 

connexion    with  Roses  for  pots. 

There  can  be  no  better  time  than 

the  present  to  pot  Roses,  especi- 
ally  the   matured    Hybrid    Per- 

petuals.      Pot   more .  firmly  than 

is    generally    the    practice,    and 

stand     them    half  plunged    upon 

some  shady  border.     It  is  better 

still  if  one  can  provide  a  cool  pit 

or  frame,  anything  that  will  allow 

of  a  little  protection  during  severe 

weather.       We     sometimes      ex- 
perience   a    very    dry    October, 

and  partial  shelter,  together  with 

frequent     sprinkling     overhead, 

stops  wood   shrivelling.     Except 

during  severe  weather,   I   prefer 

open  treatment  until  the  plants 

are  wanted  for   the    Rose-house. 

Another  great  advantage  of  a  pit 

is  the  more  steady  way  the  plants 

can  be  brought  on  after  pruning. 
During    this    month,    too,    we 

should  finish  ripening  established 

Roses   in   pots  and  those  turned 

out  in  the  house  borders.     A  few 

of  the    ripest  of    these  may  be 

pruned,  but  the  average  amateur 

will  do  better  to  wait  and  secure  il>'-  T.  W.  La 

blooms   in   February,    when    the 

turn  of  days  helps  in  a  wonderful  way.     Great 

skill  and  care  are  necessary  to  get  presentable 

Roses  at  Christmas  and  the  early  part  of  the  year. 

HyURID  PBRPETtJALS 
are  not  so  much  in  demand  for  pot  culture  as 
formerly,  the  chief  thing  being  to  secure  vivid 
crimsons  and  darks  not  found  so  freely  among 
the  Hybrid  Tea  and  Tea-scented  sections. 
Victor  Hugo,  Commandant  Felix  Faure,  General 
Jacqueminot,  Captain  Hay  ward,  Oscar  Cordel 
and  Fisher  Holmes  are  half-a-dozen  of  the  best 
darks,  all  other  shades  being  found  better  among 
the  Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas,  besides  giving  many 
more  and  a  longer  succession  of  flowers.  The 
varieties  suitable  from  the  last  two  sections  are 
far  too  numerous  to  name,  but  six  from  the  Teas 
in  Bridesmaid,  Sunrise,  G.  Nabonnand,  Niphetos, 
Lady  Roberts  and  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting, 
with  Mrs.  W.  •!.  Grant,  The  Lyon,  Betty,  Dean 
Hole,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  and  Richmond  from 
the  Hybrid  Tea  sections,  should  not  be  omitted 
from  any  collection. 

Roses  from  Cdttinos  Outdoors. 
Turning  to  our  Roses  in  the  open  once  more, 
the  time  is  fast  passing  for  the  best  chances  of 


rooting  any  varieties  that  may  be  wanted  in 
this  form.  Chinas,  and  many  of  the  Teas  and 
Noisettes  that  are  naturally  of  free  and  vigorous 
habit,  may  be  rooted  if  fairly  well-ripened  shoots 
are  inserted  in  a  sandy  loam.  Frequent  syringing 
overhead  during  dry  weather  and  the  little 
protection  afTorded  by  a  wall  or  hedge  are  a  great 
help  to  these.  Perhaps  the  most  suitable  class 
of  Roses  to  grow  upon  their  own  roots  is  the 
numerous  wiehuraianas,  which  are  so  deservedly 
popular.  These  root  even  more  freely  than 
Manetti  or  Briar  used  as  stocks,   and  most  of 


soil  the  better.  Do  not  give  too  rich  a  compost 
close  to  the  roots  themselves,  and  plant  more 
firmly  than  usual.  Much  depends  upon  how  the 
Rose  is  placed  in  its  permanent  quarters. 
Spread  the  roots  out  wide,  and  in  the  case  of 
standards  or  tall  pillar  varieties,  secure  them 
against  wind-swaying  at  once.  When 
Planting  Beds  or  Borders 
do  not  forget  to  note  the  habit  of  growth  ;  often 
a  bed  is  spoilt  through  neglect  of  this.  All  can- 
not afford  space  for  a  bed  of  one  variety,  but  we 
can  do  much  towards  uniformity  of  growth  by 
more  care  in  selection.  The  choice 
is  so  immense  that  one  can  have 
almost  any  shade  of  colour  in 
various  habits  of  growth.  I  can- 
not close  these  notes  without  a 
word  in  favour  of  our  glorious 
Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas, 
that  invariably  give  us  an  autumn 
display.  Year  by  year  these  are 
beautiful,  and  September,  October 
and  often  November  Roses  are 
among  the  most  pleasing  of  the 
season.  Not  a  few  varieties  put 
on  quite  a  different  aspect  late  in 
the  season.  Marie  van  Houtte, 
Mme.  Antoine  Mari,  Mme.  Jean 
Dupuy  and  the  old  favourite 
Homere  are  particularly  charming 
and  lasting  at  this  time  ;  but  of 
all  Roses  to  stand  autumn  weather 
none  rivals  Frau  Karl  Druschki. 
Its  pure  white  blooms  seem  to 
revel  in  wet  and  cold.  Even  hard 
buds  open  well  if  brought  into  a 
warm  room  or  conservatory,  and 
I  have  frequently  cut  them  with 
ice  in  the  centre  of  the  petals  and 
then  succeeded  in  opening  them 
by  steady  treatment. 
f  Uckfi-dd.  A.  Pii'ER. 


COLOURED 
PLATE. 

PliATB     1884. 


I 


ROSE   DOROTHY   PERKINS   IN   AMERICA. 

M'w?i,  after  whom  the  famous  Carnation  is  raised,  is  shown  at 

them  thrive  quite  as  well  as  when  worked  upon 
foster  roots. 

Although  these  root  so  freely,  I  cannot  re- 
commend them  as  stocks  to  work  any  desired 
variety  upon,  as  it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep 
them  free  of  suckers  in  the  open,  and  quite  so 
when  used  for  stocks  of  Roses  worked  under 
glass,  so  full  are  they  of  vitality  and  given  to 
form  eyes  upon  sucker-like  roots. 

The  sooner  you  can  get  Briars  from  the  hedge- 
row for  standard  stocks  the  better.  Like  the 
cuttings  and  Rose  roots  laid  in,  these  callus  at 
once  and  often  make  rootlets  that  are  the  saving 
of  the  stocks  during  winter  and  the  trying  winds 
after  Christmas.  Far  too  often  these  stocks  are 
left  about  by  the  side  of  the  ditches  until  several 
are  ready  to  tie  up,  and  we  find  the  roots  very 
susceptible  to  frost  and  drought.  Trim  the  roots 
harder  than  is  generally  done  and  you  will  avoid 
much  trouble  from  future  suckers. 

I  have  already  advocated  early  planting,  and 
at  all  events  no  time  should  be  lost  in  getting 
the  ground  ready.  Even  if  turned  over  again 
before  planting  it  will  benefit.  The  more  it  is 
moved  and   the   manure   incorporated  with    the 


ROSE    MARQUISE    DE 
SINETY. 

THOUGHT  at  one  time  we 
should  find  this  superb 
novelty  of  rather  moderate 
growth,  but  apparently  it 
will  equal  most  of  the 
yellow  -  coloured  Hybrid 
Teas  in  vigour  ;  in  fact,  it  is 
the  wimlotv.  superior  outdoors   to   Instituteur 

Sirdey.  The  Briar  cutting  suits 
the  Rose  under  notice  admirably  ;  indeed,  this 
stock  is  even  superior  with  me  to  the  seed- 
ling Briar  in  producing  a  fine  plant.  In  the 
near  future  I  imagine  Marquise  de  Sinety  will  be 
a  formidable  rival  to  Mme.  Ravary,  although  I 
question  whether  we  shall  ever  obtain  a  variety 
to  really  surpass  this  latter  for  general  useful- 
ness. In  Marquise  de  Sinety  we  have  a  flower 
with  the  rich  golden  hue  of  the  deep-coloured 
TroUius,  and  what  a  mass  of  it  will  be  like  msy 
be  imagined.  The  flower  has  a  shapely,  globulnr 
build,  with  just  slightly  reflexed  edges  to  the 
petals.  The  lovely  rich -coloured  foliage,  in  the 
young  state  almost  like  Beetroot,  gives  a  grand 
contrast  to  the  flower.  I  wish  M.  Pernet-Ducher 
or  some  other  raiser  would  make  haste  and  give 
us  a  real  golden  bedding  Rose  of  the  colour  of 
the  common  yellow  Broom,  which  was  such  a 
grand  picture  in  our  locality  this  spring.  We 
want  a  rich  yellow  bedding  Rose  that  does  not 
fade  ;  but  it  is  easier  to  express  the  desire  than 
to  produce  the  article,  as  all  know  very  well  who 
have  had  anything  to  do  with  raising  novelties. 
However,  I  hope  that  before  loug  this  golden 
yellow  bedder  will  be  forthcoming.  P, 


October  9,  1909.) 


THE    GAKDEN. 


495 


ROSE  DOROTHY  PERKINS 
IN  AMERICA. 

THIS  eharming  Rose  is,  apparently,  as 
great  a  favourite  in  America  as  it  is 
in  this  country,  and  that  it  thrives 
equally  as  well  there  as  here  is 
evidenced  by  the  illustration  on 
page  494.  Of  the  few  instances 
we  have  seen  of  this  Rose  planted  against  a  wall 
in  this  country,  the  effect  has  not  been  a 
particularly  pleasing  one ;  but  evidently  it  thrives 
well  in  America  when  planted  in  such  a  position. 
The  illustration  of  this  Rose  growing  on  a  house 
represents  Dreamwold  Nest,  the  residence  of 
Mr.  T.  W.  Lawson,  and  it  is  that  gentleman  who 
is  sitting  at  the  window.  As  will  be  seen,  the 
plants  are  a  mass  of  bloom  and  evidently  quite 
at  home.  The  other  illustration  shows  this 
beautiful  pink  Rose  at  its  best,  i.e.,  covering  the 
arches  and  handrails  of  a  rustic  bridge,  and  pro- 
ducing its  trusses  of  blooms  in  profusion.  Such 
an  example  is  worthy  of  the  keenest  rosarian's 
art,  and  will,  we  hope,  suggest 
ideas  in  rustic  work  to  some  of  our 
readers. 


season  before  mildew  has  attacked  the  growth  ; 
so  also  does  the  semi-double  Hybrid  Tea  Dawn. 
Dorothy  Page-Roberts,  Mrs.  W.  .J.  Grant,  Lady 
Ashtown,  Viscountess  Folkestone,  Lady  Roberts, 
Catherine  Mermet,  Mme.  Ravary  and  the  new 
and  beautiful  Melanie  Soupert  are  all  good  Roses 
for  decoration,  and  Prince  de  Bulgarie,  with 
brown  foliage,  is  very  pretty  in  the  autumn. 

The  recently  introduced  Lyon  P^ose  is  very 
beautiful,  but  needs  to  be  used  quite  by  itself 
to  be  seen  to  advantage.  Its  peculiar  shades  of 
shrimp  pink,  with  the  golden  base  of  the  petals, 
are  so  unusual  that  they  almost  need  a  white 
background  to  be  seen  to  full  perfection.  This 
lovely  Rose  is  certainly  one  of  the  best  of  the 
new  varieties. 

In  Roses  for  table  decoration  there  seems  a 
tendency  to  return  to  the  use  of  the  garden 
varieties,  instead  of  the  cluster  ramblers  which 
were  so  much  in  vogue  for  this  purpose  a  year 
or  two  ago.  These  undoubtedly  needed  a  skilled 
hand  to  attain  the  juste-niilieu  between  a  poor 
effect,  the  result  of  using  too  few  blooms  in  an 
endeavour    for  lightness,    and   an   overcrowded 


Turning  to  the  single  Roses,  none  are  more 
beautiful  for  a  light  decoration  than  Irish  Elegance 
and  Gottfried  Keller,  the  latter  a  variety  which  I 
am  surprised  is  not  more  used  ;  its  golden  tints, 
combined  with  its  orange  buds  and  bronzy  foliage, 
are  very  taking.  Tausendschon  (a  bright  pink) 
and  the  new  Rose  Entente  Cordiale  (a  charming 
combination  of  colouring)  are  sure  to  become 
established  favourites,  while  the  pretty  little 
yellow  Canarien  Vogel,  with  its  dainty  buds,  is 
also  worthy  of  mention. 

Every  year  there  seems  to  be  a  growing 
tendency  to  use  their  own  foliage  exclusively  in 
arranging  Roses,  and  surely  this  is  a  step  in  the 
right  direction.  In  few  private  gardens  are  there 
the  best  varieties  in  sufficient  numbers  to  admit 
of  the  foliage  of  any  particular  Rose  chosen  for 
the  adornment  of  the  house  being  freely  cut  to 
go  with  it ;  but  the  more  luxuriant  ramblers 
amply  supply  this  deficiency,  those  with  sprays 
of  small,  shining  green  foliage,  such  as  Alberic 
Barbier,  mixing  well  with  many  kinds,  and  the 
brown  foliage  of  Sunset  is  also  most  valuable.  A 
little  care  and  thought  in  the  judicious  mingling 


ROSES     FOR     DECO- 
RATION. 

A  S    becomes    the     Queen     of 
/\  Flowers,  the  Rose  holds 

/   \         pre-eminence    for     the 

/  \  decoration  and  adorn- 
y  \^  ment  of  the  home,  and, 
with  a  welcome  ten- 
dency nowadays  towards  the 
simpler  forms  of  arrangement, 
the  beauty  of  the  flower  itself  is 
shown  to  the  best  advantage. 
While  awarding  due  honour  to 
many  old  favourites,  it  cannot  be 
denied  that  a  number  of  Roses  of 
recent  introduction  lend  them- 
selves particularly  well  to  decora- 
tion, their  beautiful  colouring  at 
once  arresting  attention. 

It  is  not  so  much  among  the 
exhibition  varieties  that  this 
adaptability  for  decoration  is  to  be 
found  ;  for  instance,  Frau  Karl 
Druschki,  the  most  beautiful  snow 
white  Rose  in  cultivation,  can 
scarcely  be  called  a  good  decora- 
tor's Rose,  though  a  bold  group  of 
this  variety,  cut  with  sufficiently 
long  stems,  may  be  arranged 
against  a  dark  background  with 
great  effect.  The  chief  points  of  a 
Rose  for  decorative  purposes  are 
colour,  perfume  and  a  certain 
amount  of  staying  power.  This 
latter  attribute  is  rather  wanting 
in  such  a  fleeting  flower  as  Comtesse 
du  Cayla,  and  also  in  that  pretty 
and  delicately  tinted  Rose  Lady 
Waterlow,  charming  as  they  both 
are  in  the  bud  state. 

All  the  qualities  of  a  perfect  deco- 
rative variety  may  be  seen  in  Liberty 
and  its  improved  form  Richmond, 
an  added  point,  which  will  appeal 
to  decorators  with  tender  fingers,  being  that  they 
have  smooth  stems  with  few  thorns,  so  different 
from,  for  instance.  Marquis  of  Salisbury,  which, 
equally  charming  as    regards  colour,   is  a  most 
trying  Rose  to  handle  by  reason  of  its  excessive 
thorniness.        Another    great  favourite   for    the 
adornment  of  rooms,  dinner  tables,  baskets,  &.C., 
is  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  equally  beautiful  in  all 
stages,   from   the   bud   to  the  expanded  flower. 
For  bowls,  La  France  and  Caroline  Testout  are 
very    efi^eotive.     Killarney    makes    a     beautiful 
basket  Rose,   provided  it  is  cut  early  in    the 


ROSE   DOROTHY   PERKINS  OVER  RUSTIC   BRIDGE — A   FLOOD   OF   FLOWERS. 


mass,  by  using  too  many  ;  but  some  of  the  newer 
wichuraianas  are  undoubtedly  very  lovely.  When 
visiting  a  nursery  in  Sussex  lately  some  new  varie- 
ties were  shown  me  which  seemed  particularly 
well  suited  for  decoration.  Joseph  Lamy  (a 
delicate  blush  pink  with  deeper  centre,  of  most 
artistic  colouring) and  LeontineGervais(anapricot 
yellow  tinged  with  rose),  both  with  pretty 
foliage,  were  charming.  So  also  were  Ciepuscule 
(Noisette),  tinted  yellow  and  salmon,  Frangois 
Juranville  andFran9ois  Guillot,  and  a  paler  sport 
from  Dorothy  Perkins  was  also  worthy  of  notice. 


of  colours  and  disposition  of  the  materials  at 
command  are  always  needed  to  ensure  the  best 
results ;  but  with  the  improvements  of  modern 
cultivation  and  the  varied  tints  and  kinds  now 
to  select  from,  there  should  be  no  difficulty  in 
finding  beautiful  Roses  to  harmonise  with  any 
and  every  scheme  of  the  decorative  art.  One 
of  the  most  beautiful  flowers  for  the  garden  is 
G.  Nabonnand,  which  gives  its  flowers  freely 
in  the  autumn  as  well  as  the  summer. 

Emily  E,  Williamson. 
WUelead,  Canlerhury. 


496 


THE    GAKDEN. 


I  October  9,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.  —  The  Gladioli 
have  been  very  beautiful  in  the  flower 
garden  throughout  the  latter  part  of 
the  summer,  and  now,  as  the  flowers 
fide  and  the  stems  commence  to 
shrivel,  they  must  be  lifted.  Quite 
half  of  the  stem  may  be  cut  away,  the  bulbs 
being  buried  in  a  mixture  of  dry  soil  and  sand 


I  -n>-  Tin.  LKFT  IS  SHOWN  A  RIJ'ENED  SHOOT 
OF  .JASMINB  SniTABFjE  FOR  MAKING  INTO 
A  CDTTING,  AND  ON  THE  RIGHT  A  CDTTINi: 
READY  FOR   I'LANT1N0_IS  SHOWN. 

safe  from  frost  in  an  open  shed  and  left  there 
until  they  are  fit  to  store  away  for  the 
winter.  It  is  advisable  to  take  the  pre- 
caution to  have  all  the  varieties  correctly  named. 
Liliums  that  are  now  faded  must  be  lifted  and 
treated  somewhat  similar  to  the  Gladiolus  bulbs, 
but  the  storing  of  the  latter  is  best  done  in 
sweet  leaf-soil,  Cocoanut  fibre,  or  in  dry  soil  in 
boxes.  Those  bulbs  plunged  in  pots  may  be  left 
in  the  latter,  water  being  gradually  withheld. 
If  placed  in  frames  from  which  the  frost  is 
excluded,  the  Lilium  bulbs  will  keep  perfectly 
sound.  In  instances  where  it  has  been  difficult 
to  get  a  sufficient  number  of  cuttings  of  Calceo- 
larias during  the  latter  part  ot  September, 
another  attempt  must  be  made  at  once  to  secure 
the  required  stock.  Very  often  the  best  cuttings 
are  those  taken  late  in  the  season.  Put  them  in 
firm  beds  well  covered  with  sand  on  the  surface. 
The  Rose  borders  must  also  be  carefully 
examined  and  all  dead  blossom-stems  and  heps 
removed  from  the  bushes,  but  no  attempt  should 
be  made  at  the  pruning  of  the  branches. 


Vegetable  Owrdin. — The  warmest  border  in  the 
garden — and  that  is,  generally,  the  south  one,  or 
one  sheltered  by  a  wall  or  fence  on  the  north 
and  east  sides — is  one  which  should  be  well 
occupied  with  plants  throughout  the  winter 
months.  It  is  a  very  fine  position  for  Endive 
where  cultivators  are  not  able  to  make  use  of  a 
frame.  The  Endive  plants  may  be  lifted  from 
other  quarters  and  blanched  in  beds  of  com- 
paratively dry  soil  on  the  warm  border.  Winter 
Radishes  are  best  grown  on  the  same  border,  and 
where  it  is  inconvenient  to  put  out  spring  Cabbage 
plants  in  their  permanent  quarters  at  this  season, 
they  may  with  much  advantage  be  transplanted 
in  narrow  beds  on  the  south  border.  Parsley, 
too,  is  a  very  important  crop,  and  the  seedlings 
that  result  from  late  sowings  must  now  be  freely 
thinned  out  ;  the  remaining  plants  will  then  get 
more  sturdy  in  a  short  time  and  be  in  a  better 
condition  to  withstand  the  winter  weather. 
Finish  the  work  of  cutting  and  clearing  away 
the  faded  stems  and  foliage  of  Asparagus.  In 
the  northern  counties  it  is,  of  course,  much 
later  in  ripening  than  in  the  southern,  and  it  is 
unwise  to  cut  it  too  early.  In  districts  where  it 
is  very  difficult  to  procure  Pea  and  Bean  sticks, 
the  best  of  the  old  ones  must  be  neatly  placed 
in  an  open  shed  for  use  again  next  season,  when 
they  may  be  mixed  with  new  sticks.  If  left 
e.\posed  to  the  weather  during  the  winter-time 
they  would  ciuickly  decay. 

Fruit  Oardtn. — The  pruning  of  Red,  A\'hite 
and  Black  Currant  bushes  may  now  be  com 
menced  where  many  of  the  leaves  have  fallen  off. 
In  dry,  sandy  soils  the  leaves  of  the  trees  fall  oft' 
sooner  than  in  more  cla3'ey  ones.  Cultivators 
who  have  been  troubled  with  the  Black  Currant 
bud-mite  should  not  hesitate  to  uproot  and  burn 
all  the  affected  bushes.  If  the  latter  form  a  part 
of  a  large  break,  grown  in  this  way  for  the  con- 
venience of  covering  to  protect  the  fruit,  it  will 
tie  desirable  to  put  the  new  bushes  in  the  posi- 
tions occupied  by  the  damaged  ones  ;  but  before 
this  is  done  I  advise  the  owners  to  put  in  some 
unslaked  lime  and  mix  it  with  the  soil  to  a  depth 
of  3(1  inches.  Use  01b.  of  lime  per  square  yard  of 
ground.  Defer  the  planting  of  young  bushes  until 
next  March. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — Rose  trees  planted 
in  borders  in  the  greenhouse  should  now  have  a 
final  pruning  and  cleaning  for  the  winter.  The 
pruning  will  simply  consist  of  the  removal  of  the 
very  weakly  shoots  to  prevent  overcrowding ;  the 
cleansing,  the  thorough  syringing  of  the  branches 
with  clean  water,  and  then  with  a  solution  of 
loz.  of  soft  soap  and  four  gallons  of  warm  water, 
in  which  has  also  been  mixed  loz.  of  flowers 
of  sulphur.  Ventilate  the  structure  freely. 
Amateurs  should  not  attempt  to  grow  tender 
plants  in  frames  in  the  winter-time  unless  the 
structures  are  heated.  This  is  a  favourable  time 
for  settling  the  matter  of  the  occupants  of  all 
cool  and  heated  frames.  Procure  mats,  straw 
and  litter  for  the  due  protection  of  all  plants 
grown  in  the  cold  frames.  Dry  material  keeps 
out  frost  better  than  wet.  B. 


HOW   TO   PROPAGATE   THE  JASMINE. 

Of  the  many  evergreen  climbing  plants  that  are 
well  known  in  this  country,  I  doubt  whether 
there  is  any  more  popular  subject  than  the 
.Jasmine,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the 
.Jessamine.  There  are  stove  and  greenhouse 
species,  each  of  which  is  very  beautiful ;  but  the 
hardy  species  are  very  attractive,  and  these  are 
represented  in  far  larger  numbers  than  the  more 
tender  kinds. 


An  ideal  situation  for  the  hardy  species  of 
•Jasmine  is  a  well-drained  border  at  the  base  of  a 
south  or  south-west  wall.  In  any  case  a  sunny 
position  is  essential  to  its  well-being,  no  matter 
whether  this  be  against  a  wall  or  as  a  covering 
for  an  arbour  or  a  trellis.  Those  who  desire  to 
make  the  most  of  their  plants  should  utilise 
them  for  trailing  over  old  tree  stumps,  where 
they  will  make  a  very  beautiful  picture.  There 
are  advocates  who  speak  highly  of  this  subject 
because  of  its  extreme  hardiness,  and  who  vouch 
that  owing  to  its  vigorous  and  rapid  growth  it 
will  succeed  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation. 
This  may  be  so ;  but  to  be  quite  sure  of  a  satisfac- 
tory result  I  prefer  to  plant  in  good  soil  in 
borders  that  are  well  drained  and  in  a  warm 
aspect. 

As  a  plant  for  a  town  garden,  the  common 
.Jasmine  is  an  excellent  subject.  When  planted 
with  proper  care  against  a  south  wall  where  a 
little  sunshine  can  be  obtained,  there  should  be 
no  difficulty  in  covering  a  space  15  feet  to  20  feet 
high,  and  this  is  no  mean  achievement  in  a  town 
garden. 

Besides  the  common  Jasmine  (J.  officinale), 
there  is  the  bright  yellow  .T.  humile  revolutum, 
excellent  as  a  plant  for  walls,  having  evergreen 
foliage  and  flowering  most  profusely  in  summer 
and  early  autumn.  Other  good  kinds  are  .1. 
humile  (a  native  plant  of  South  Europe,  having 
yellow  flowers)  and  J.  fruticans  (also  with  yellow 
flowers),  both  flowering  in  the  summer. 

The  Winter  .Jasmine  (.J.  nudiflorum)  is 
indispensable  in  ever}'  garden.  Its  value  in 
the  depth  of  winter  cannot  be  over-estimated. 
The  yellow  blossoms  wreath  the  leafless  growths 


2. — CUTTINGS  INSERTED  AROUND  THE  EDGE  OF 
A  5  -  INCH  POT.  THEY  MAY'  ALSO  BK 
PLANTED   IN   BEDS  IN  COLD  FRAMES. 

when  no  Other  flowering  subject  is  injevidenee. 
On  a  south  wall,  or  planted  to  trail  among  Ivy 
growths,  which  latter  form  an  excellent  ground 
colour,  the  Winter  .Jasmine  is  seen  at  its  best. 

In  the  present  instance,  however,  I  am  more 
especially  concerned  in  promoting  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  common  Jasmine,  that  every  garden- 
lover  knows  so  iwell   and  doubtless  desires   to 


October  9,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


497 


been  layered  with 
numerous  roots 
emitted  from  the 
joint  that  was  pegged 
down.  Such  growths 
should  be  severed 
from  the  main  plant, 
and  be  planted  in 
carefully  prepared 
soil  when  in  this 
well  -  rooted  con- 
dition.        I).  B.  C. 


3. — A  JASMINE  SHOOT  PREPARED  READY   FOR  LAYERING. 


increase  and  perpetuate.  This  subject  is  in- 
creased by  cuttings  of  ripened  young  shoots,  of 
which  a  well-grown  plant  will  yield  a  large  number. 
On  the  left  of  Fig.  1  a  typical  growth  for  this 
purpose  is  shown.  On  the  right  of  the  same 
illustration  is  portrayed  a  cutting  properly  pre- 
pared and  ready  for  planting.  To  make  a  cutting 
which,  when  completed,  should  be  about  0  inches 
long,  out  out  the  point  of  the  shoot  and  also 
trim  off  the  lower  leaves,  at  the  same  time 
cutting  through  the  stem  immediately  below  a 
joint.  All  leaves  on  the  lower  '2  inches  of  the 
cuttings  should  be  removed  in  the  manner 
advised.  When  the  cuttings  are  prepared  as 
shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration  they  are 
ready  for  insertion  forthwith. 

Cuttings  should  be  planted  in  the  autumn, 
preferably  in  early  October,  utilising  either 
the  services  of  a  cold  frame  or  pots  for  this 
purpose.  Should  a  large  number  of  plants  be 
desired,  the  cold  frame  offers  great  advantages. 
Make  up  a  bed  of  sandy  soil  therein,  and,  after 
making  this  fairly  firm,  proceed  to  insert  the 
cuttings  1  inch  or  2  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  and 
in  rows  about  3  inches  asunder.  Make  the  soil 
firm  at  the  base  of  each  cutting,  and  then,  when 
completed,  water  in  with  clear  water  from  a 
fine-rosed  can.  Most  readers  will  require  only 
just  a  few  plants,  and  for  this  reason  pots  5  inches 
in  diameter  will  answer  their  purpose  splendidly. 
Use  clean  pots  and  half  fill  with  potsherds,  so  that 
the  drainage  may  be  perfect.  Cover  these  with 
a  handful  of  decayed  leaves,  fee,  and  fill  in 
with  good  sandy  soil,  say,  loam,  leaf-mould  and 
sand  in  equal  quantities.  Well  mix  before  using 
and  make  this  rather  firm  in  the  pots.  Insert 
the  cuttings  about  1^  inches  apart  and  about  the 
same  depth,  pressing  the  soil  firmly  at  the  base 
of  each  cutting.  Water  in  to  complete  the  opera- 
tion, subsequently  plunging  the  pots  in  soil  in  the 
cold  frame ;  a  shady  window  will  answer  the 
same  purpose.  Leave  the  rooted  cuttings  in  the 
pots  until  the  succeeding  autumn,  after  which 
they  should  be  shaken  out  and  planted.  Fig.  2 
represents  a  batch  of  cuttings  inserted  in  a  pot 
5  inches  in  diameter.  The  cuttings  after  first 
rooting  grow  very  slowly. 

The  common  Jasmine  may  be  increased  by 
layering  the  young  shoots  in  the  summer.  In 
Fig.  3  is  portrayed  a  section  of  growth,  showing 
how  the  layering  should  be  proceeded  with. 
The  foliage  should  be  removed  at  the  joint 
it  is  proposed  to  layer  and  a  slight  incision 
made  immediately  below  the  joint,  and  this 
should  be  pegged  down  in  a  basin-like  cavity  in 
the  soil,  covering  with  a  compost  of  a  sandy 
nature.  In  the  illustration  is  shown  a  galvanised 
wire  (home-made)  peg  in  position,  except  that  it 
is  moved  a  little  to  the  left  in  order  the  better  to 
show  the  joint.     Fig.  4  shows  a  growth  that  has 


PENTSTEMONS. 

These  are  lovely 
flowering  plants 
suitable  for  filling 
side  borders  in  the 
flower  garden  or  for 
planting  in  the 
kitchen  garden  for 
the  supply  of  cut 
flowers  for  vases 
during  the  months 
of  July,  August  and 
September.  Plants 
are  easily  raised  in  spring  from  seeds  sown  in 
pots  or  boxes  ;  but  those  persons  who  now  possess 
good  strains  should  insert  a  number  of  cuttings  in 
a  sandy  soil  under  a  hand-light  or  in  an  ordinary 
frame.  There  must  be  no  coddling  of  the  plants, 
but  while  the  weather  is  frosty  it  will  be  wise  to 
keep  the  glass  lights  on  after  the  cuttings  have 
rooted.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    G/VRDEN. 

Plantinc  Bulbs  and  Other  Soe.jeots.— In 
many  gardens  the  summer  bedding-out  plants 
will  have  been  cleared  off  the  borders  in  readi- 
ness for  the  planting  of  bulbs  and  spring- 
flowering  plants  generally,  and  no  time  must  be 
wasted  in  getting  the  beds  ready  for  their 
reception  where  this  work  has  not  already  been 
done.  The  Wallflower  is  a  very  valuable  plant, 
and  I  think  its  merits  are  getting  recognised 
more  and  more  every  year.  I  can  readily 
sympathise  with  the  town  gardener,  who  is  an 
enthusiastic  lover  of  spring  flowers,  when  he 
wishes  to  fill  borders  in  rather  cold  passages 
between  dwelling-houses  and  in  other  positions 
somewhat  similar.  If  Polyanthuses  or  Primroses 
are  planted,  the  leaves  become  infested  with 
green  fly  even  in  the  depth  of  winter.  I  have 
experienced  this.  It  is  really  astonishing  how 
well  these  pests  flourish  in  the  cold,  cutting  east 
winds;  fairly  severe 
frosts  do  not  kill 
them.  Wallflower 
plants  are  the  most 
suitable  for  such 
places.  When  they 
are  once  established 
the  plants  do  not 
suft'er  much  from 
cold  winds,  but  they 
do  when  planted  late 
in  spring.  Be  in 
time  and  plant  sturdy 
specimens  now. 
May-flowering  Tulips 
also  do  pretty  well 
in  the  cold  positions, 
and  Violas,  too. 

How  TO  Plant 
Boles. — I  like  the 
soil  to  be  in  a  nice 
friable  state  when 
putting  in  the  bulbs. 
About  8  o'clock  in 
the  morning  rake  the 
surface  of  the  soil 
with  a  long-toothed 
rake   and  leave    the 


soil  to  dry  for  several  hours.  At  noon  the 
planting  may  commence,  at  which  time  it  will 
be  a  pleasure  to  work  in  the  soil.  Instead  of  the 
bulbs  being  surrounded  by  a  stiff,  wet  loam,  the 
soil  will  crumble  around  them,  and  this  con- 
dition is  far  better  and  more  likely  to  result  in 
satisfactory  progress  when  the  bulbs  grow. 
Narcissus  and  Hyacinth  bulbs  should  be  buried 
nearly  5  inches  deep  in  light  soils  and  4  inches  in 
heavy  ones  ;  Tulips  nearly  4  inches  in  light  and 
3  inches  in  heavy  soils  ;  Snowdrops  and  Crocuses 
must  be  buried  between  2  inches  and  3  inches 
deep.  If  some  little  extra  care  be  taken  to  place 
sand  around  the  bulbs  in  clayey  soil,  the  growth 
of  the  bulbs  will  be  freer  and  more  even  than 
would  be  the  case  if  such  material  were  not 
used.  Daffodils  look  well  in  almost  any  position 
in  the  garden  ;  but  where  north  and  east  aspects 
are  sheltered  and  the  garden  is  warm  generally, 
they  look  charming  when  growing  in  informal 
groups  near  fences,  bushes,  or  trees.  Avoid 
planting  the  bulbs  in  straight  lines  or  in  very 
stiff  groups  ;  when  growing,  an  informal  group 
with  a  few  straggling  bulbs  flowering  near  it  looks 
much  more  artistic  and  charming  than  so  many 
blooms  forming  a  square  or  a  round  patch  on  the 
grass  or  in  the  border. 

St.  Brigid  Anemones. — The  great  diversity 
of  colours  of  the  flowers  of  these  and  the 
extremely  pretty  foliage  make  them  general 
favourites.  The  soil  in  which  the  roots  grow 
best  is  a  light,  sandy  one,  and  the  town  gardener 
who  has  such  a  rooting  medium  in  his  garden 
could  not  do  better  than  put  in  a  number  of 
1st.  Brigid  Anemones.  At  the  edge  of  shrub- 
berries,  on  slightly  raised  banks,  and  even  in 
dells  where  the  soil  is  of  a  peaty  nature  and  not 
inclined  to  be  wet  at  any  period  of  the  winter 
season,  the  plants  will  be  successful.  In  a 
garden  where  light  soil  prevails,  these  Anemones 
should  be  extensively  planted,  as  the  result 
would  be  so  pleasing  and  uncommon.  Plant 
strong  roots  7  inches  to  9  inches  apart  and  cover 
them  nearly  3  inches  deep. 

Ranunculus. — From  the  end  of  April  to  the 
beginning  of  July  these  plants  flower  freely. 
The  colours  are  ver}'  striking  and  varied.  The 
French  (asiaticus  superbissimus)  are,  perhaps,  the 
best  of  all,  though  the  double  Persian  and  double 
Turban  are  exquisite  in  scarlet,  white  and  pale 
yellow  colours.  The  roots  must  be  planted  with 
the  fangs  downwards,  as  the  crowns  are  on  the 
top  or  upper  portion  of  the  root,  where  the 
fangs  join.  Put  in  the  roots  2  inches  deep  in 
rather  light  soil,  and  the  same  distance  apart  as 
recommended  for  Anemones.  In  all  cases  where 
bulbs  are  planted  among  other  kinds  of  plants, 
either  name  them  or  mark  the  places  where  they 
are  planted  with  sticks.  Avon. 


-A  PORTION  OF  A  LAYERED  SHOOT  AFTER  IT  HAS  BEEN  SEVERED  FROM 
THE  OLD  PLANT. 


498 


THE     GARDEN. 


[October  9,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 

EARLY  GRAPES.— To  obtain  these 
very  early  the  Vines  should  now  be 
fully  matured  and  fit  to  prune.  When 
pruning  cut  to  a  plump  bud  as  near  the 
base  as  possible.     I    generally    leave 

two  buds  and  remove  the  weaker 
growth  when  about  3  inches  long.  See  that  the 
house  is  thoroughly  cleansed  and  the  rods 
slightly  scraped  to  remove  the  loose  bark  and 
any  insects,  wash  the  rods  and  dress  with  a 
suitable  mixture.  Gishurst  Compound,  used 
according  to  the  directions  given  on  the  box, 
will  answer  in  most  cases  ;  but  where  mealy  bug 
exists,  a  more  severe  scraping  and  dressing  are 
essential.  See  that  the  brickwork  is  thoroughly 
lime-washed,  mixing  with  this  wash  a  little 
paraffin  and  working  the  whole  well  into  the 
crevices.  After  the  house  and  Vines  have  been 
thoroughly  cleansed  and  put  right,  remove  a 
portion  of  the  top  soil  and  top-dress  with  good 
loam,  bone-meal  and  manure.  The  Vines  should 
then  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible  till  the  time  for 
starting  them. 

Late  Ml  Ions. — Keep  the  foliage  of  these  clean 
and  free  from  insects,  and  apply  plenty  of 
artificial  warmth  in  dull  weather  to  push  along 
the  crop  and  to  improve  the  flavour  of  the  fruits. 
Figs. — As  soon  as  all  the  fruits  have  been 
gathered,  go  over  the  trees  and  thin  out  all  weak 
and  useless  shoots,  so  that  both  light  and  sun 
may  reach  and  more  fully  mature  the  wood 
intended  to  fruit  next  season.  To  produce  good 
crops  of  Figs,  the  shoots  should  be  of  medium 
size,  sturdy  and  well  ripened.  Do  not  keep  the 
roots  too  wet  at  this  season  ;  if  the  borders  are 
fairly  moist,  no  water  will  be  required  for  several 
weeks. 

Flowers  Unher  Glass. 

tfyacintJiK  —Continue  to  pot  up  fresh  batches 
of  Roman  Hyacinths,  and  also  pot  up  the  main 
batch  of  the  large-flowering  varieties.  See  that 
the  pots  are  clean  and  well  drained  and  the  soil 
sweet  and  fresh.  Boxes  of  Daffodils  and  Tulips 
for  supplying  large  quantities  of  flowers  should 
be  arranged  so  that  enough  of  variety  and 
colour  is  forced  into  flower  at  the  one  time. 
Tulips  Proserpine  and  Chrysolora  are  very  useful 
for  table  decorations  when  grown  in  quantity. 

Spirceas,  Lilacs  and  Deutzias  should  be  potted 
up  at  once,  if  not  done  already.  When  potting, 
do  not  reduce  the  roots  more  than  is  necessary  ; 
pot  firmly,  and  stand  the  plants  in  an  open  posi- 
tion with  the  pots  plunged  in  coal-ashes.  Good 
batches  of  these  hardy  shrubs  will  prove  excep- 
tionally useful  at  a  time  when  other  flowers 
are  none  too  plentiful.  Prunuses,  Cherries  and 
Magnolias,  when  brought  forward  in  a  gentle 
warmth,  flower  freely.  All  plants  requiring 
protection  should  now  be  housed  before  they 
get  damaged  by  frost.  Kupatorium  odoratum 
which  were  planted  out  early  in  the  summer 
and  lifted  and  potted  up  some  days  ago  will,  if 
stood  in  any  cool  vinery  where  the  (J rapes  have 
been  cut,  flower  freely  for  some  weeks  and  prove 
very  useful. 

Lift  Up  and  Pot  Chrysanthemums  which  have 
been  planted  out.  These  will  produce  large 
quantities  of  flowers  for  decorative  purposes  and 
prove  useful  when  the  outside  flowers  have  been 
damaged  by  frost. 

Frames. 

Give  plenty  of  fresh  air  daily  in  favourable 
weather  to  Cinerarias  and  Violets,  removing  the 
lights  from  the  latter,  excepting  when  there  is 
much  rain  and  in  frosty  weather. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Kjtchbn  Garden. 

Celery. — This  important  vegetable  will  now 
require  attention.  On  any  plants  that  are  well 
grown,  the  outer  leaves  may  be  lightly  drawn 
together  and  secured  wjth  a  strip  of  matting. 
Afterwards  give  a  thorough  watering  if  needful, 
and  a  dressing  of  soot  or  lime  around  the  plants  to 
keep  off  grubs,  which  greatly  disfigure  the  stalks 
in  some  districts,  will  leave  all  ready  for  the 
soil.  This  should  be  applied  when  the  plants 
are  dry,  and  be  well  pulverised,  pressing  it  firmly 
and  evenly  until  the  leafy  part  of  the  stem  is 
reached.  Later  supplies  will  require  similar 
treatment,  except  that  earthing  ia  best  left  over 
for  some  time  or  until  frost  threatens,  as  when 
blanched  the  plants  are  more  susceptible  to  cold 
than  when  in  the  green  or  natural  state. 

Cardoons  are  less  cultivated,  especially  in 
Northern  gardens,  than  their  merits  deserve. 
Plants  full  grown  should  now  be  divested  of 
decayed  outer  leaves,  and  have  the  others 
drawn  lightly  together  and  be  surrounded  with 
hay  or  straw.  Tie  the  same  in  place,  after 
which  the  earth  may  be  heaped  all  round, 
using  more  or  less  according  to  the  height  of  the 
plants. 

Brassicos  of  all  kinds  should  now  be  cleared  of 
bad  foliage,  and  after  hoeing  the  surface  fork 
over  the  soil,  piling  a  good  portion  of  the  same 
against  the  stems  as  a  protection. 

Cauliflower.^. — The  present  spell  of  warm,  dry 
weather  is  hastening  these  to  maturity.  A 
number  of  the  most  forward  should  be  lifted 
with  roots  and  some  soil  attached  and  laid  in  a 
cool,  fairly  moist  position.  Others  less  advanced 
may  be  retarded  by  having  a  spade  thrust  in 
beside  them  and  be  partly  thrown  over  away 
from  the  sun. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

The  gathering  of  the  various  crops  will  occupy 
much  time,  but  this  is  well  spent,  for  if  gathered 
too  soon  fruit  never  attains  its  proper  flavour, 
and  if  left  too  long  upon  the  trees  mealiness 
is  the  result,  and  great  risk  of  damage  by  wasps 
and  insects. 

Apples  of  the  earliest  sort  being  now  past, 
others  to  succeed  them  should  be  gathered  at 
intervals,  as  advancing  colour  and  ready  parting 
from  the  branches  warrant.  If  wanted  for  use 
at  an  early  date,  a  number  put  within  a  close- 
fitting  box  and  placed  in  the  dry  warmth  of 
a  vinery  or  plant  house  accelerates  the  ripening 
very  considerably. 

Pears. — The  foregoing  remarks  apply  equally 
to  these,  but  still  closer  observation  is  required 
to  get  the  earliest-ripening  varieties  at  their 
best,  which  at  most  only  lasts  for  a  few  days  ; 
the  most  pleasing  exterior  often  hides  a  fast- 
decaying  centre. 

Plums. — Where  any  difficulty  exists  with 
regard  to  ripening  these  upon  the  trees,  or  if 
the  pests  that  usually  prey  upon  them  are  very 
aggressive,  the  fruit  may  be  gathered  when  fully 
grown  and  the  change  to  ripening  appears. 
Place  them  in  single  layers  in  a  warm  situa- 
tion, where  the  process  will  generally  continue 
satisfactorily. 

Root -pruning. — This  work  is  often  done  too 
late  to  benefit  the  cropping  properties  of  the 
respective  trees  the  season  following,  and  it  is 
seldom  that  trees  bearing  a  full  crop  are  in  need 
of  this  ;  there  is  no  reason  why  others  excessively 
vigorous  and  fruitless  should  not  be  operated  on 
at  once.  Plums,  perhaps,  are  more  given  to 
exuberance  than  any  other  fruit  tree,  but  both 
Pears  and  Apples  share  in  it  to  some  degree,  more 
particularly  in  the  case  of  young  trees.  Prudence 
is  necessary  in  dealing  with  trees  that  have 
produced  very  vigorous  shoots,  or  a  too  severe 
check  may  be  given. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacharn.) 

QaUoway  House,  Oarlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


OLD    ROSES. 

CNE  day,  lately,  in  the  drawing-room  of 
^  an  amateur  Rose-grower  I  saw  a 
I  beautiful  sight — a  Rose  table  with 
W  specimens  of  all  the  loveliest  Roses 
'  in  bloom  at  the  moment  in  the 
owner's  garden..  Colour,  shape, 
velvet  of  petal  and  health  of  foliage,  all  combined 
to  make  these  fresh-gathered  Roses  as  near  to 
perfection  as  a  non-exhibiting  Rose-lover's  heart 
could  aspire  to  or  attain.  Harking  back  to 
earlier  gardening  days,  one  stood  wrapt  in 
wonder  noting  the  change  and  advance  which 
Time  had  wrought.  In  years  gone  by,  to  begin 
with,  a  display  of  autumn  Roses  of  the  kind 
would  have  been  impossible,  simply  because  they 
did  not  exist. 

Yet,  when  all  is  said  for  the  Roses  of  to-day, 
there  is  one  supreme  charm  often  lacking  which 
some  of  the  old-time  Roses  gave  us  in  no  stinted 
measure — the  joy  of  fragrance — and,  with  a 
sense  of  relief,  one  realises  that  after  all  we 
cannot  even  yet  afford  to  dispense  with  the  best 
of  the  old  favourites  which  lent  their  delicious 
scent  to  our  grandmothers'  pot-pourri. 

So,  in  this  Rose  Number  of  The  Garden,  let  a 
word  be  put  in  lest  we  forget  to  reserve  some 
place  for  the  sweet-smelling  summer  Roses  of  long 
ago. 

The  Rose  of  all  others  for  this  particular 
quality  is  the  Provence  or  Cabbage  Rose,  and  in 
spite  of  somewhat  weakly  growth  and  poor 
leafage  it  possesses,  besides  its  scent,  an  artistic 
value  of  its  own  which  no  one  can  deny  who  is 
conversant  with  the  Dutch  flower-paintings  of 
200  years  ago.  Its  season,  too,  is  early  summer, 
and  therefore  it  is  less  apt  to  come  into  collision 
with  modern  Roses  of  more  symmetrical  form. 
This  fine  old  Rose  is  seldom  seen  in  good  con- 
dition, for  by  some  strange  misapprehension 
people  suppose  that  it  needs  neither  care  nor 
attention,  and  that  it  only  asks  to  be  let  alone. 
Never  was  there  a  greater  mistake.  The  Cabbage 
Rose  will  make  a  good  standard,  but  it  is  as  a 
dwarf  bush  that  it  is  more  generally  acceptable  : 
and,  if  you  chance  to  have  it,  a  light,  sandy  soil 
will  suit  it  admirably,  and  then  it  will  succeed 
well  grown  on  its  own  roots,  which  is  a  great 
advantage.  Prune  it  well  back  each  season — 
some  say  cut  away  half  the  shoots  to  two  or 
three  buds  in  October  and  the  rest  in  April  to 
prolong  the  flowering  season — mulch  well  in 
November,  and  you  will  find  that  you  need  not 
grudge  the  room  it  takes.  The  lovely  cream 
white  Rose  Unique,  a  Provence  of  the  same  type 
and  hardly  ever  now  to  be  met  with,  should  not 
be  overlooked,  nor  the  tiny  Rose  de  Meaux, 
beloved  of  children  and  of  peculiar  fitness  for 
their  miniature  borders. 

The  old  blush  Moss  Rose,  again,  is  but  a 
variety  of  the  Provence.  It  is  known  as  the 
common  Moss,  but  is  far  better,  to  my  mind, 
than  any  of  the  improved  varieties,  mot  of 
which  have  departed  from  the  slender,  shapely 
form  of  the  original.  This  should  certainly  find 
a  place,  if  only  for  the  pleasure  of  having  a 
bouquet  or  two  each  summer  of  its  charming 
half-opened  buds.  It  repays,  by  vigour  and 
freedom  of  flower,  the  same  treatment  as  the 
Provence,  while  an  occasional  transplanting  into 
fresh  soil  renews  its  youth. 

In  a  Sussex  garden  not  far  from  my  own  there 
are  bushes  of  summer  Roses  in  the  shrubberies 
which  have  indisputably  been  there  for  forty 
years.  They  have  the  same  full  scent  and 
colour,  but  the  flowers  are  flatter  and  more  open 
than  those  of  the  Cabbage  Rose.  They  are  in 
all  probability  relics  of  the  Hybrid  Provence  x 
Gallioa,  which  were  precursors  in  their  day  of 
our  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas.  Now 
they  are  nameless,  but  for  cutting  and  filling  a 
room  with  their  unrivalled  perfume  how  welcome 
still  ! 

Sentiment,  perhaps,  may  plead  for  such  of  the 
old  Roses  as  the  English  white  Rose,  the  striped 
York    and     Lancaster,     the     Damask     or     the 


October  9,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


499 


Maiden's  Blush  ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  these 
will  ever  regain  or  even  retain  a  place  in  good 
gardens.  It  may  give  a  certain  pleasure — even  a 
thrill  sometimes  for  old  eake's  sake — to  oome 
across  one  of  these  in  some  old-world  spot. 
Nevertheless,  we  feel  no  strong  impelling  desire 
to  transplant  either  of  them  into  our  own 
garden,  for  their  inherent  merits  scarcely  appeal 
to  us.  Yet  they  have  done  their  part,  as 
stepping-stones,  to  our  better  things  ;  and  even  in 
this  group  Rose  Celeste,  charming  alike  in  its 
blue-green  foliage,  opening  flowers  and  delightful 
scent,  must  not  be  left  out. 

And  what  garden  would  be  complete  without 
the  pink  and  crimson  China  Roses  of  the  old 
type,  or  the  little  Scotch  Briars,  white  and  pink 
and  sulphur,  to  herald  the  coming  in  of  the  rest, 
or  some  of  the  old  ramblers  which  are  not  even 
yet  superseded  by  the  new  ? 

We  can  fit  some  or  all  of  these  into  the  most 
modern  of  gardens  if  we  do  but  take  time  to 
think  where  best  they  may  be  placed  while  we 
give  fair  play  to  a  tender  feeling  for  the  past. 
For  these  old  Roses  are  intertwined  with 
memories  which  will  linger,  like  the  subtle 
incense  of  their  own  faded  petals,  as  long  as 
English  men  and  English  women  are  found,  to  the 
remotest  corners  of  the  Empire,  whose  hearts  beat 
true  to  their  country  and  their  home.     K.  L.  D. 


ROSES  IN  A  NOTTINGHAM- 
SHIRE   NURSERY. 

DURING  one  of  the  very  few  fine  days 
I  that  were  experienced  in  July  last, 
i  we  had  the  pleasure  of  spending  a 
I  tew  hours  with  Messrs.  H.  Merry- 
'  weather  and  Sons  at  their  wonderful 
Rose  and  fruit  nurseries  at  South- 
well, Notts,  and  we  were  so  impressed  with 
what  we  saw  there  that  we  feel  sure  our  readers 
will  be  pleased  to  learn  something  about  this 
home  of  England's  favourite  flower.  When  we 
say  that  no  fewer  than  120,000  Roses  were  to  be 
seen  growing  here,  this  will  give  a  faint  idea  as 
to  the  extent  to  which  the  Rose  is  cultivated, 
and  it  may  be  of  interest  to  record  that  150  acres 
are  devoted  to  Roses  and  fruit  trees. 

We  have  never  seen  maiden  Roses,  i.  e. ,  those 
budded  a  year  previously,  in  such  vigorous 
condition  before ;  in  some  varieties,  such  as 
Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  we  noticed  shoots 
5  feet  high,  and  even  in  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
the  bushes  were  well  branched  from  the  base,  a 
most  desirable,  but  not  always  obtainable,  feature 
in  bush  plants  of  this  section.  The  Lyon  Rose 
seemed  to  have  spread  itself  over  the  whole  of 
the  acreage  devoted  to  Roses,  breadths  of  it 
cropping  up  everywhere,  and  we  saw  here  the 
most  perfect  bloom  of  this  wonderful  Rose  that 
it  has  up  to  the  present  been  our  privilege  to 
behold.  One  only  wished  that  it  had  been  the 
"  National"  show  day,  so  that  this  bloom  could 
have  taken  a  medal  as  one  of  the  best  blooms  in 
the  show.  As  a  standard  or  pillar  Rose,  Lyon 
has  a  great  future  before  it.  A  splendid  com- 
panion to  this  is  Marquise  de  Sinety,  which  has 
a  most  delightful  fragrance  ;  the  blooms  are 
large  and  full,  and  the  colour  has  been  described 
as  Roman  ochre,  shaded  rosy  scarlet.  Mme. 
Constant  Soupert  is  a  beautiful  deep  yellow, 
shaded  peach  carmine  Rose ;  it  was  thriving 
wonderfully  at  Southwell. 

Among  others  that  may  be  regarded  as  new,  or 
at  least  of  recent  introduction,  we  were  particu- 
larly pleased  with  the  following  :  Dorothy  Page- 
Roberts,  a  beautiful  Hybrid  Tea  of  combined 
coppery  pink  and  apricot  yellow  hue,  very  free 
flowering  and  a  charming  Rose ;  Ecarlate,  an 
intense  brilliant  scarlet  that  should  make  a 
grand  edging  to  the  taller-growing  and  less  vivid 
Griiss  an  Teplitz  ;  Friedrichsruh,  a  blood  red  Tea 
with  large  and  fragrant  blooms,  but  not  over 
free  in  flowering  ;  George  C.  Waud,  a  Hybrid 
Tea  with  large  and  perfectly  shaped  flowers  of 


orange  vermilion  colour,  the  bushes  being  very 
vigorous ;  Harry  Kirk,  long  pointed  buds  of 
deep  sulphur  yellow  and  very  fragrant,  the  habit 
of  the  plant  being  very  branching  and  good  ; 
Hugo  Roller,  a  very  charming  free-flowering 
Rose,  the  ground  colour  of  the  blooms  being 
lemon  yellow,  the  margins  of  the  petals  edged 
bright  rose,  this  being  more  or  less  suffused 
through  the  petals  ;  Joseph  Lowe,  a  beautiful 
salmon  pink  sport  from  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant ;  Lady 
Helen  Vincent,  very  fragrant  and  shell  pink  in 
colour  ;  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward,  buds  rich  yellow, 
changing  to  a  pink  hue  as  they  age,  and  finally 
turning  to  almost  white  in  full-blown  flowers ;  and 
Mrs.  Harold  Brocklebank,  a  splendid  Tea-scented 
Rose  of  excjuisite  shape,  colour  creamy  white 
with  buff  centre,  a  splendid  show  variety. 

Among  the  Polyantha  section  we  must  not 
omit  to  draw  attention  to  those  charming  novel- 
ties Jessie  and  Phyllis.  The  first-named  is  bright 
cherry  crimson,  and  the  latter  bright  carmine 
pink.  Both  are  absolutely  distinct  and  far 
superior  to  others  of  this  section,  the  flowers 
retaining  their  colours  in  bright  sunshine.  We 
have  never  seen  a  prettier  sight  than  a 
hedge  of  Phyllis  which  Messrs.  Merryweather 
have  planted  inside  an  open  ironwork  fence 
which  runs  alongside  their  principal  nursery. 
On  one  side  of  the  fence  is  an  asphalte  pavement, 
and  on  the  other  this  Rose  is  planted,  and  there 
it  was  flowering  away  as  freely  as  though  it  had 
been  planted  in  an  extra  well-prepared  situation. 
While  writing  of  Rose  hedges  we  must  refer  to 
"  The  Thornless  Rose,"  Zepherin  Drouhin,  a 
remarkably  free  variety  of  charming  bright  old 
rose  colour  and  deliciously  fragrant.  As  a  speci- 
men plant  or  for  forming  a  hedge,  this  old  but 
little-known  Rose  should  be  very  extensively 
planted. 

Among  the  many  climbing  Roses  grown  by 
Messrs.  Merryweather  we  noticed  the  pure  white 
Dorothy  Perkins  growing  away  freely,  and 
Tausendsohijn,  Stella,  Tea  Rambler,  Thalia, 
Euphrosyne,  Hiawatha,  Philadelphia  and  Crimson 
Ramblers  were  all  in  first-class  condition. 

Of  what  may  be  regarded  as  the  older  bush 
Roses,  the  following  we  noted  as  possessing  good, 
all-round  characteristics  :  Amateur  Teyssier,  a 
Rose  that  is  little  known,  but  which  ought  to  find 
a  place  in  every  garden.  It  is  almost  perpetual 
flowering,  has  saffron  yellow  flowers  of  exquisite 
shape,  is  delightfully  fragrant,  very  vigorous 
and  will  grow  almost  anywhere.  Commandant 
Felix  Faure  should  be  used  largely  as  a  red  bedding 
Rose  ;  although  a  Hybrid  Perpetual  it  is  very 
free.  Comtesse  du  Cayla  ia  a  China  Rose,  the 
colour  of  which  is  described  as  Nasturtium  red, 
tinted  with  orange  and  carmine,  changing  to 
coppery  yellow  ;  it  is  very  vigorous  and  free. 
Crepusoule  is  a  charming  Noisette  with  chamois 
yellow  buds  tinged  with  red,  the  open  flowers 
possessing  a  pretty  salmon  hue.  Dr.  Grill  is  a 
very  free  Tea  that  should  make  a  good  bedder  ; 
the  colour  is  coppery  yellow  in  the  centre, 
shading  to  clear  rose.  Duke  of  Connaught,  Duke 
of  Edinburgh  and  Fisher  Holmes  are  a  trio  of 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  that  are  too  well  known  to 
need  description  ;  at  Southwell  they  were  fully 
maintaining  their  high  reputation. 

Gustave  Grunerwald  is  a  lovely  scented,  bright 
carmine  pink  Hybrid  Tea  ;  and  KOnigin  Carola 
is  evidently  a  splendid  garden  Rose,  the  large 
satiny  rose  flowers  being  produced  in  abundance. 
Mme.  Chedane  Guinoisseau  is  a  Tea  that  will 
doubtless  be  largely  planted  for  bedding  purposes  ; 
the  flowers  are  of  that  delicate  canary  yellow 
colour  found  in  Mar6ohal  Niel.  Mrs.  David 
McKee  is  another  pale  yellow  Rose  of  exquisite 
form,  and  the  habit  of  the  bush  is  very  good 
indeed.  Pharisaer  (a  Rose  that  does  well  in 
London),  Prince  Arthur,  Richmond,  Sulphurea 
and  Ulrich  Brunner  are  all  that  lack  of  space 
will  allow  us  to  mention. 

Of  the  fruit  trees,  we  can  only  say  that  these 
were  in  as  perfect  condition  and  health  as  human 
skill  can  make  them.  The  orchards  of  Apple 
Bramley's  Seedling,  which  was  first  discovered  at 


Southwell,  were  a  sight  worth  going  far  to  see, 
and  a  new  Damson  with  fruits  as  large  as  Orleans 
Plums  is  a  novelty  that  we  shall  doubtless  hear 
more  of  in  the  near  future. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE, 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
Sower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit, 
tree,  shrub,  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


EUPATORIUM    CIELESTINUM. 

The  Comte  F.  Lurani,  Cernusco,  Lombardone, 
Italy,  sends  flowers  of  this  interesting  species. 
It  has  Ageratum-like  flowers,  and  is  fairly 
common  in  the  Southern  United  States,  although 
it  ia  not  mentioned  in  any  important  garden 
books.  It  is  usually  found  in  open,  damp  woods 
or  by  the  sides  of  water-courses,  growing  from 
1  foot  to  3  feet  high,  with  branching  stems  and 
opposite,  petioled,  ovate  leaves.  The  small 
blue  flowers  are  very  numerous,  and  are  produced 
in  the  form  of  a  corymb  from  August  to  October. 
In  its  native  country  it  is  called  the  Mist-flower, 
owing  to  the  mist-like  appearance  presented  by 
the  flowers.  Although  not  so  handsome  as  many  of 
the  Eupatoriums  grown,  the  colour  of  the  flowers 
of  this  plant  is  a  strong  recommendation,  and  it 
should  be  well  worth  cultivating  aa  a  pot  plant. 

SWKET   Peas  from   DaMFRIESSHIBE. 

Mr.  John  McKay,  The  Gardens,  Craigieburn, 
Moffat,  Dumfriesshire,  sends  a  delightful 
gathering  of  Sweet  Peas.  The  flowers  were 
wonderfully  fresh  in  colour  and  showed  the 
most  successful  cultivation. 


Flowers  FROM  Sussex. — Abutilon  vexillarium 

VARIEUATDM. 
Thirty  years  ago,  when  large  greenhouse  plants 
were  in  favour,  this  Abutilon  was  often  trained 
on  a  network  of  wires  in  the  shape  of  a  balloon  ; 
but  even  such  mistaken  kindness  was  not  able 
to  wholly  destroy  its  natural  beauty.  Its  leaves 
are  heart-shaped,  long  in  proportion  to  their 
width  and  mottled  with  every  shade  of  green  and 
gold.  The  flowers,  produced  singly  from  the 
axils  of  the  leaves,  are  very  brilliant ;  the  inflated 
calyx  ia  like  a  bright  red  miniature  Winter 
Cherry,  while  the  corolla  forms  a  clear  yellow 
bell  below,  with  a  cluster  of  purple  brown 
stamens  hanging  from  it.  It  is  never  seen  at 
its  best  in  a  small  pot.  When  planted  out  in  a 
border  of  good  loam  and  decayed  manure  it 
grows  vigorously,  ia  more  free-flowering  and 
the  variegation  ia  brighter.  Probably  in  more 
Northern  districts  it  would  be  necessary  to  plant 
it  in  a  cool  house  ;  here  we  have  it  growing  on  a 
south  wall.  The  plant  was  rooted  from  a  cutting 
and  planted  out  about  three  years  ago,  and  now 
meaaurea  9  feet  in  height  and  12  feet  in  width, 
flowering  freely  each  season.  In  winter  the 
roots  are  mulched  with  leaf-mould  and  the  stems 
covered  with  a  mat.  Treated  in  this  way  only  a 
few  of  the  softest  shoots  are  damaged  by  frost, 
and  the  rest  grow  away  freely  as  the  weather 
becomes  warmer.  As  a  proof  of  its  comparative 
hardiness  I  may  mention  that  Jasminum  primu- 
linum  in  the  same  position  and  treated  in  the 
same  way  was  frozen  to  the  ground-level,  although 
not  killed. — J.  Comber,  Nymans,  Sussex.  [Our 
correspondent  sent  vigorous  shoots  of  this  plant, 
and  also  of  the  bright  scarlet  Berberidopsis 
corallina. — Eu.  ] 


500 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  9,  1909. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Answreps.— r/ic  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpj'ul  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  nn  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  viaii 
be,  and  with  that  object  iviU  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearlij  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  ^O,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  nantf  and.  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  desiynation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  ni  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  shnirld 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Blue  floweps  top  autumn  (J.  F.).— 

We  fear  you  would  have  to  fall  back  very  much 
upon  the  Michaelmas  Daisies  and  their  near 
allies  for  blue  flowers  for  the  period  you  name 
Occasionally,  however,  the  Lirkspurs  give  a 
second  flowering,  but  they  are  by  no  means 
reliable  in  this  respect,  and  after  July  bo  fine  a 
plant  as  Anchusa  is  getting  over,  though  in  your 
district  it  may  continue  to  a  later  date.  You 
speak  of  "  hardy  plants  for  herbaceous  border," 
and  we  take  that  expression  to  mean  perennials  ; 
but,  if  not,  there  are  other  things  which  might 
be  added.  Would  you,  therefore,  write  us  again 
and  say  definitely  ?  and  please  give  the  sizs  of 
the  border  that  we  may  have  a  guide  when 
giving  the  list. 

Pseonies  diseased  (V.  Hopkins).— The 
Paeonies  are  su6fering  badly  from  a  fungus 
disease,  and  all  you  can  now  do  is  to  cut  away 
the  stems  and  burn  them  forthwith.  If  all  the 
plants  in  the  border  are  similarly  aSected,  the 
disease  is  likely  to  occur  again,  and  if  so  it  would 
be  unwise  to  introduce  fresh  stock  there.  It 
would  be  well,  too,  another  year  to  spray  the 
plants  from  time  to  time  with  some  fungicide 
preparation  or  with  sulphide  of  potassium,  using 
loz.  to  three  gallons  of  water  and  taking  care  to 
wet  all  parts  of  the  plants.  Employed  once  in 
spring  and  again  two  or  three  times  when  the 
flowering  is  over,  the  disease  may  be  held  in 
check.  The  poor  flowering  is  not  due,  we  think, 
to  the  disease  which  has  put  in  an  appearance  late 
in  the  season,  but  rather  to  the  poor  soil  at  the 
roots.  Paonies  are  among  the  mo^  voracious  of 
herbaceous  plants  and  root  very  deeply.  They 
are  greatly  benefited  by  being  deluged  in  winter 
with  liquid  manure.  It  is  possible  your  plants 
would  be  benefited  by  dividing  and  replanting, 
and  this  should  be  done  at  once  if  at  all. 

Double-floweped    Nasturtiums 

(E.  S.). — Although,  as  you  say,  it  may  be  impos- 
sible to  grow  as  many  of  the  double-flowered 
Nasturtium  as  you  require  from  cuttings,  yet  the 
fact  remains  that  it  is  the  only  way  by  which  it 
can  be  increased.  The  weaker,  short-jointed 
shoots  make  the  best  cuttings,  and  they  should 
be  given  much  the  same  treatment  as  cuttings  of 
Fuchsias  and  similar  subjects  ;  that  is  to  say, 
they  must  be  dibbled  into  pots  of  sandy  soil  and 
kept  rather  close  and  shaded  in  a  warm  green- 
house till  rooted.  Where  space  during  the 
winter  is  an  object,  six  or  seven  cuttings  may  be 
struck  in  a  pot  5  inches  in  diameter  and  allowed 
to  remain  therein  till  the  spring,  when  they  must 
be  potted  off  singly.  Although  you  have  failed 
to  find  mention  of  the  double-flowered  Nastur- 
tiums in  any  catalogue,  there  are  several  forms  in 
cultivation,  and  some  of  them  have  been  grown 
for  nearly  thirty  years.  One  of  the  earliest,  if 
not  actually  the  first,  was  known  as  Hermine 
Grasshof ;  but  we  have  not  met  with  it  of  late. 
Messrs.  Cannell  of  Swanley  catalogue  three 
varieties  of  these  double-flowered  Nasturtiums 
at  a  very  cheap  rate,  and  one  is  oti'ered  in 
the  catalogue  of  M.  M.  Lemoine  et  fils  of  Nancy. 


Fowl-manupe  fop  Sweet  Peas(^.  C.).-Yes; 
fowl  manure  is  good,  but  it  is  a  coucentrated  nitrogenous 
food,  and  must  be  used  witli  care.  It  should  be  dried  in 
au  open  shed  and  stored  in  saclis  for  use.  Before  applica- 
tion mix  it  with  an  equal  bulk  of  fine  soil,  aud  incorporate 
it  in  the  soil  in  the  bottom  of  the  trenches. 

Plants  foP  pots  (Salop).— SmM  plants  of  Vucca 
recurvaor  Y.  gloriosa  would  look  quite  well,  but  if  repeated 
indefinitely  would  become  irksome.  In  addition  to  these, 
small  plants  of  Retinosporaobtusa,  R.  squarrosa,  Cupressus 
lawsoniana  and  C.  1.  erecta  viridis  would  also  look  well. 
You  might  also  try  silver  and  gold  Euouymus  or  any  of 
the  more  decided  Aubrietias,  together  with  Alyssum 
saxatile,  Cerastium  tomentosum  (a  white-leaved  plant  of 
trailing  habit)  or  the  more  pigmy-growing  of  coniferous 
trees.  If  you  could  give  ample  attention  in  watering 
during  summer,  and  afford  protection  from  winter  frost, 
you  might  succeed  in  growing  the  Hydrangea  in  some  of 
the  large  pots,  while  such  Funkias  as  F.  Sieboldil  and  ¥. 
ovata  aurea,  Sedum  spectabile  and  a  few  of  the  hardy 
Fuchsias  would  afford  pleasing  variety  throughout  the  year. 
A  good  deal  of  success  might  be  secured  in  your  case  with 
the  large  pots  you  have  at  hand,  provided  close  attention 
to  watering  was  given.  By  heaping  up  the  soil  round  the 
stems  of  the  plants,  and  preventing  the  water  lodging  aud 
freezing  on  the  surface,  tiie  plants  should  be  quite  safe  as 
they  are. 


TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 
Sap  oozlngr  from  Monkey  Puzzle 

(Mrs.  P.  S.J.  —  We  are  sorry  to  say  that  we  do 
not  know  of  anything  that  can  be  done  to  your 
Arauearia  to  stop  it  bleeding.  Vou  might  try 
drying  tlie  places  and  tarring  the  wounds  over. 
It  is  probable  that  the  liquid  you  mention  is 
some  kind  of  fungus  growth.  Such  a  thing  has 
occasionally  been  observed  on  the  Arauearia.  The 
liquid  which  exudes  looks  like  froth  in  the  case 
of  the  fungus. 

Plantlngr  copse  {ft.  p.  B.).— Unless  the 
cattle  were  prevented  by  a  sunk  fence  or  other 
means  from  entering  the  copse,  they  would  of  a 
surety  go  there  and  do  much  mischief  by  treading 
down  things,  if  nothing  more.  Cattle  usually  do 
not  touch  the  Daffodils  ;  but  we  are  not  sure 
whether  they  would  interfere  with  any  other 
plants  which  may  be  introduced.  Strained  wire 
fencing  does  not  make  much  of  a  display,  and  is 
often  seen  in  parks  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
the  cattle  from  the  trees,  whereas  a  sunk  fence 
would  be  a  little  out  of  place. 

Old  Lavender  hedge  (i?.  E.  (7.).— You 
cannot  do  better  than  make  a  fresli  start  with 
your  Lavender  hedge.  If  you  cut  the  old  plants 
back  into  hard  wood  you  will  kill  them,  and  if 
you  simply  cut  a  little  off  the  top  no  good  will 
result.  On  the  other  hand,  if  you  root  cuttings 
and  commence  anew  with  healthy  young  plants, 
you  will  obtain  a  good  hedge  which  will  be 
satisfactory  for  a  number  of  years.  The  great 
point  to  observe  with  such  a  hedge  is  to  keep  it 
cut  each  year  after  the  flowers  are  over.  This 
will  keep  it  compact,  and  it  will  last  in  good 
condition  for  a  much  longer  period  than  it  would 
if  it  were  left  untouched  or  left  unpruned 
for  two  or  three  years  and  then  be  given 
a  hard  cutting  back.  It  is  one  of  those  shrubs 
which  will  not  send  out  good  shoots  from  old 
wood. 

Lonlcera  Hildebrandtil  (M.S.F.).— 
This  is  a  very  rapid  grower,  but  we  are  afraid 
you  will  find  that  it  is  too  tender  to  succeed 
out  of  doors.  If  you  wish  for  a  Honey- 
suckle, you  will  find  the  new  Lonicera  trago- 
phylla  a  suitable  plant.  A  plant,  however,  which 
is  uncommon  and  an  exceedingly  beautiful 
subject,  is  Clematis  montana  var.  rubens.  This 
is  a  very  rapid  grower,  and  bears  a  profusion  of 
reddish  flowers  in  May  and  early  June.  A 
good  Vine  for  the  purpose  would  be  Vitis 
Coignetiae.  Do  not  prune  your  Solanum  until 
spring.  In  the  event  of  severe  frost,  cover 
it  with  a  few  Y'ew  or  Spruce  branches.  A  few 
cuttings  rooted  now  would  ensure  a  stock  in  the 
event  of  the  plant  being  killed.  In  spring  cut 
it  back  about  halfway  if  still  alive.  Polygonum 
baldschuanicum  requires  no  other  pruning  than 
the  cutting  away  of  loose  or  dead  branches  in 
spring,  providing  plenty  of  room  can  be  given. 
If,  however,  it  has  outgrown  its  space,  you  may 


cut  it  in  moderately  hard  early  in  March.  If 
you  cover  your  Solanum,  do  not  do  so  before 
frost  appears,  and  remove  the  covering  on  the 
break  up  of  the  frost. 

Replantingr  Vlpglnian  Cpeepep  (E.  K.  B.).— 
You  may  transplant  your  Virginian  Creeper  at  once,  or 
within  a  few  weeks  of  the  leaves  falling.  If  from  any 
reason  the  work  cannot  be  done  within  that  period,  leave 
it  until  March.  Old  examples  are  not  very  good  plants  to 
re-establish,  and  you  would  probably  clothe  the  new 
position  quicker  by  inserting  a  young  plant  from  a  pot 
nest  spring.  If,  however,  your  specimen  is  a  fairly  young 
one,  you  will  most  likely  be  successful  in  transplanting  it 
if  you  use  ordinary  care  in  taking  it  up. 

Wistaria  not  floweplnir  (T.  A.  ,S'.).— ^'our 
Wistaria  ought  to  be  pruned.  The  work  wouid  have 
been  better  performed  a  couple  of  months  ago ;  in  fact, 
two  prunings  are  often  necessary  on  wall-grown  plants, 
the  first  as  soon  as  the  flowers  have  fallen  and  the  second 
early  in  August.  Cut  all  the  current  season's  branches 
back  to  within  four  or  five  eyes  of  the  base  and  encourage 
the  plant  to  form  spurry  growtlis.  Plants  which  get  into 
a  spurred  or  somewhat  stunted  condition  always  blossom 
more  satisfactorily  than  those  which  form  a  lot  of  rank 
growth.    The  pruning  had  better  be  done  without  delay. 

Rhododendpon  bushes  damag-ed  by  cold 
winds  and  fpost  iKiVninl  Eilliard).—!!  your  Rhodo- 
dendron bushes  were  perfectly  healthy  until  the  young 
shoots  were  damaged  by  frost  and  cold  winds  in  spring,  it 
is  unnecessary  to  lift  them  and  give  new  peat,  for  tliey 
will  probably  form  fresh  growth  this  summer.  If,  how- 
ever, they  did  not  appear  to  be  very  strong,  the  roots  may 
be  in  bad  condition,  and  in  this  case  they  ought  to  be 
taken  out  of  the  old  soil  and  replanted.  If  this  has  to  be 
done,  do  not  replant  in  all  peat,  but  mix  peat  and  sandy 
loam  together,  in  the  proportion  of  one  part  of  the  former 
to  three  parts  of  the  latter.  Do  not  plant  deeply  ;  merely 
cover  the  surface  roots,  but  do  not  bury  them  deeper 
than  half  an  inch.  The  wood  can  be  cut  back  to  where  it 
is  alive  at  once,  and  if  replanting  is  necessary  it  ought  to 
be  done  now. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Roses  for  Cold  g:peenhou8e(</.  X.  N. ). 

Mareehul  Niel  in  its  early  stages  of  growth  is 
much  addicted  to  mildew.  If  you  could  give 
the  plant  plenty  of  air  right  from  the  time  you 
pruned  and  allowed  air  to  enter  the  house  night 
and  day,  we  think  you  would  find  the  young 
growth  so  hardened  as  to  be  able  to  withstand 
the  attack.  It  is  a  soft  condition  of  wood  and 
foliagg  that  really  invites  mildew.  Cyllin  Soft 
Soap  is  an  excellent  remedy  if  applied  before 
the  pest  gets  a  strong  hold.  The  following  two 
dozen  varieties  would  give  you  an  excellent 
selection  for  your  cold  greenhouse :  Caroline 
Testout,  Admiral  Dewey,  La  France,  Augustine 
Guinoisseau,  William  Askew,  Marie  Croibier, 
Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Anna  Olivier,  Farben- 
konigin,  Joseph  Hill,  Lidy  Battersea,  Lidy 
Itoberts,  Laurent  Carle,  Mme.  Faloot,  Mme. 
Hoste,  Mme.  .Jean  Dupuy,  Mme.  Leon  Fain, 
Mme.  lUvary,  Marie  van  Houtte,  Mrs.  Aaron 
Ward,  Richmond,  Prince  de  Bulgarie,  General 
MeArthur  and  White  Lady. 

Formingr  b,  Rose  garden  {Mrs.  Lee). 

We  cannot  undertake  to  furnish  complete  designs 
for  Rose  gardens,  but  advise  you  to  consult 
some  of  the  large  Rose  nurserymen,  who  would 
draw  you  a  plan  to  scale.  However,  we  are 
always  ready  to  offer  suggestions.  We  think 
the  rough  sketch  you  send  would  make  a  most 
excellent  Rose  garden.  In  the  centre  bed  you 
could  either  have  a  seat,  over  which  climbing 
Roses  could  be  trained  on  arches,  or  you  could 
plant  a  weeping  Rose  on  a  tall  stem,  which  in 
time  would  enable  you  to  form  an  arbour  beneath 
its  branches.  If  you  do  not  care  for  either  plan, 
then  standard  Roses  in  the  centre  would  look 
well.  At  the  various  angles  standard  Roses  of 
the  free-headed  sorts  would  be  most  picturesque, 
while  over  the  paths  arches  could  be  spanned  at 
intervals  and  covered  with  the  many  beautiful 
rambler  Roses.  We  strongly  advise  you  to  have 
a  bed  of  a  kind,  or,  if  not  this,  then  a  bed  of  one 
colour.  If  you  give  us  a  rough  sketch  of  the 
design  when  prepared,  we  shall  be  delighted  to 
afford  every  information  as  to  the  best  varieties 
to  plant.  The  soil  should  be  well  aud  deeply 
dug,  taking  care  to  fork  up  the  second  spit, 
but  do  not  bring  it  to  the  surface.  Admix 
farmyard  manure  liberally  and  add  same  half- 
inch  bones  to  each  bed. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  October  H,  1909. 


SOME  FAMOUS  ROSE  RAISERS 


A.  K   Prince. 


Dii.  J.  Campbili.  Hall. 


^' 


--»« 


H.  Merry  WEATHER. 


t  ~yA 


4LEXANDEK    1)I«.K30N. 


Arthur  William  Paul. 


TuE  Latk  William  Paul,  F.L.S., 


Benjamin  E.  Cant. 


The  Late  Hcnkv  Bensett. 


Hugh  Dickson. 


Arthur  Turner. 


Harry  Veitcu,  F.L, 


Georue  Pail,  V.M.R 


G.    VV.    Pi PER. 


OF    THE    BRITISH    ISLES 


George  Laing  Paul. 


The  Late  Lmru  Penzance. 


S.  McGrbdt. 


Ci:ciL  E.  Cant. 


Willia:\i  Cockkr. 


Frank  Sfoombr. 


Supplement  to  THE  GARDEN,  October  gth,  1909, 


HYBRID   TEA   ROSE 
MARQUISE    DE   SINETY. 


Uiulson  &  Kcai'iis,  Ltd.,  Printers,  London,  S.E. 


■■«><9fe?^- 


GARDEN. 


No.  1978.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


October  16,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


Colour  Nombncla- 

TnRE    ..     .'.    ..    ..    601 
Some     little-known 
_  Grapes  that  ripen  in 
~  a  cold  house      . .     . .    501 
British-raised  Koses   . .    502 
Notes  of  thb  Week 
Forthcoming  events      502 
Our  Rose  Number  . .    502 
The  National   Vege- 
table Society..     ..    602 

CORRKSPOHDEHOE 

Curing  Tobacco       . .    602 
A  window  -  sill   rock 

garden     503 

Rose  David  Harum. .    503 
Workers     among    the 
flowers — Mr.  William 

Kelway       603 

Treks  ahd  Shrubs 
How   to    plant    and 

treat  a  hedge . .     . .    504 
A  shrubby  Chestnut      504 
KiioHBN  Garden 
Notes    on     culinary 

Peas 504 

Fruit  Garden 
Fruit  trees  at  Messrs. 
James  Veitch  and 
Sons'  nurseries     . .    505 
Fruit  notes       . .     . .    506 


of 


606 


507 


608 


Fruit  Garden 
The    planting 
Nut  walk       . .     . . 
Flower  Garden 
Daffodil  effects..     .. 
Sweet  Peas  at  Great 

Ryburgh 607 

The  Editor's  Table     . .    507 
Gardenino  for  Besinnhrs 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        608 

Increasing  the  Flag 

Irises       

Lifting    and   storing 

Beetroot 509 

How  to  manage  stove 

plants      609 

THE  TOWN  Garden  ..    609 
Gardenins  of  the  Week 
For    the  South   and 

South  Midlands    . .    610 
For  the   North   and 
North  Midlands  ..    510 

New  plants 510 

A.H8WER8  TO  CORBE- 
9P0NDBIII8 
Flower  garden  . .  ..  611 
Trees  and  shrubs  . .  511 
Fruit  garden  . .  . .  511 
Miscellaneous  ..  ..  512 
Societies      512 


ILiLUSTRATIONS. 

Mr.  William  Kelway      503 

A  new  Apple  (Rev.  W.  Wilka) 604 

Tree  of  Pear  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey       506 

Apple  Bismarck      506 

Daffodils  by  pondside  at  Wolfeton  House,  Dorchester  607 

Increasing  the  Flag  Irises 60S,  509 


BDITORIALi    NOTIGBS. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  w  represented  in  THE 
Gabdbii,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  qtiestions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  urish  advice  from 
o&n^petent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  mshes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o)  their  assistance. 
AU  oonvmunicatioTis  must  be  toritten  clearly  on  one  side 
otily  0/  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Bditob  of  The 
Garden,  aceompa/nied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
out  he  vnU  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  AU 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduotion  be 
plaiTily  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  loiU  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  PulMcation  in  The  GARDEN 
wiU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  JO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


COLOUR    NOMENCLATURE. 

A    NOTE  appeared  in  The  Garden  recently 

/\  from  the  Rev.  W.  Wilks,  secretary 

/    %        of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 

/       %       recommending    a  colour  chart,    and 

we    reproduce   it   again   with    some 

comments  from  one  to  whom  we  owe  much  for 

guidance  in  defining  colour  in  the  garden  and 

home  : 

"  For  many  years  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  has  been  confronted  with  the  difl&oulty 
of  describing  exactly  the  colour  of  any  particular 
flower  in  terms  which  shall  be  distinctly  and 
definitely  intelligible  in  New  York  and  Paris, 
Berlin  and  Quebec,  &c.,  as  in  London.  It  is  a 
difficulty  shared  by  all  who  have  in  any  way,  or 
at  any  time,  to  represent  colour  in  words.  We 
determined,  therefore,  to  endeavour  to  establish 
an  International  code,  by  which  anyone,  any- 
where, could  convey  to  anyone  else  at  a  distance 
of  time  or  place  exactly  and  precisely  the  colour 
and  shade  he  is  speaking  of.  With  this  end  in 
view  we  searched  for  a  good  colour  chart,  and 
have  been  successful  in  finding  an  excellent  one 
containing  360  colours  between  white  and  black, 
with  the  name  of  each  in  French,  German, 
English,  Spanish  and  Italian,  together  with  four 
shades  of  each  of  the  360  colours,  so  that  anyone 
wishing  to  describe  to  a  friend  at  Calcutta  the 
exact  colour  and  shade  of  a  flower,  or  a  silk,  or 
a  painting,  need  only  refer  to  the  colour  chart 
number,  quoting,  if  for  apricot,  e.g.,  page  53, 
shade  3  ;  or  if  for  rosy  pink,  page  118,  shade 
4  ;  and  so  on.  The  cost  of  production  of  so 
beautifully  printed  and  so  large  a  chart  was,  of 
course,  very  heavy,  and  it  was  issued  at  one 
guinea  net ;  but  our  society,  by  adopting  it  as  an 
International  standard  and  purchasing  a  very 
large  number  of  copies  from  the  publisher,  is  able 
to  supply  it  to  our  Fellows  and  others  at  1-ta.  6d. , 

or  if  by  post  15s It  would  make  it  quite 

easy  for  mercers  and  drapers  to  match  any  goods 
for  customers  at  a  distance  ;  in  fact,  if  once  we 
could  establish  this  chart  as  an  International 
colour  reference,  its  subsequent  use  would 
develop  in  all  directions." 

It  is  with  extreme  regret  that  I  have  to 
express  dissent  from  any  opinion  given  by  my 
valued  friend,  Mr.  Wilks. 

The  colour  chart,  which  I  believe  to  be  the  one 
in  question,  was  lent  me  about  a  year  ago,  when 
I  carefully  went  through  it.  Many  of  the  colours 
and  names  given  may  stand  as  fairly  representa- 
tive, but  a  good  proportion  are  misleading. 
There  are  colour  words  that  are  in  themselves  so 
vague  that  they  cannot  be  defined.  For  instance, 
who  can  venture  to  say  what  is  exactly  meant  by 
"azure"?     The  word  presents  the  idea  of  some 


kind  of  light  blue,  but  who  shall  say  what  kind 
of  light  blue  ;  whether  hard  and  cold,  or  greenish, 
or  inclining  to  lilac  ?  Yet,  if  I  remember  rightly, 
the  chart  lays  down  a  aeries  of  shades  of  so-called 
azure  blue.  Then  the  word  "flame,"  so  com- 
monly used  as  a  colour  word.  It  cannot  be 
defined,  though  it  stands,  quite  erroneously,  for 
some  kind  of  scarlet.  The  colour  of  flame  is 
yellow,  yellowish,  whitish,  sometimes  grey  bluish. 
I  do  not  remember  whether  there  is  in  the  chart 
a  range  of  colouring  called  "  flame,"  but  speak 
of  the  common  wrong  use  of  the  word  and  the 
impossibility  of  defining  it. 

Venturing  to  speak  as  one  who  has  made  a 
lifelong  study  of  colour,  I  do  not  think  that  a 
trustworthy  colour  chart  is  a  possible  thing. 
The  only  colours  that  can  be  accurately  described 
in  words  are  those  that  belong  to  some  natural  or 
manufactured  substance  whose  colour  is  invari- 
able, or  so  nearly  so  that  the  variation  is 
practically  unimportant.  Such  a  word  and 
substance  is  sulphur.  Questions  of  transmitted 
light  and  of  texture  also  greatly  affect  colour. 
A  practical  decorator  who  has  been  all  his  work- 
ing life  mixing  and  matching  colours  finds  it 
difficult— often  impossible — to  match  a  tint  in 
paint  from  a  piece  of  textile  fabric ;  thus  the 
matching  in  a  flat  tint  of  the  colour  quality  of  a 
piece  of  not  quite  white  velvet  would  be  a 
problem  that  an  experienced  painter  would  find 
it  hard  to  solve.  G.  Jbkyll. 


SOME  LITTLE  -  KNOWN 
GRAPES  THAT  RIPEN  IN 
A    COLD    HOUSE. 

The  undermentioned  Vines  have  this  year 
ripened  their  fruit  well  in  an  unheated,  lean-to 
vinery  facing  south-east  in  this  locality,  in  some 
oases  preceding  a  Black  Hamburgh  in  the  same 
house.  They  are  all  grown  partly  in  an  inside 
and  partly  in  an  outside  border,  and  have  had 
no  special  care  or  treatment.  The  season  here 
has  been  bright  and  unusually  dry,  but  the 
mean  temperature  has  been  below  the  average. 

Chasselas  de  Florence. — A  beautiful  golden 
berry  with  an  exquisite  Sweetwater  flavour. 
Barron  lists  it,  but  does  not  say  enough  in  its 
praise. 

Muscat  Breionneau. — Amber  berry,  firm  flesh, 
fine  Frontignan  flavour. 

Muscat  Violet. — Reddish  purple  berry,  Fron- 
tignan flavour,  very  prolific.  Barron  lists  this, 
but  omits  to  mention  its  Frontignan  flavour, 
which  is  pronounced. 

Fondant  Rouge.  —  Berry  dull  pink,  fine 
Muscadine  flavour,  prolific.  Distinct  from 
Chasselas  Rouge,  or  Rose. 

Raisin  Hardy.— Oval,  purple  berry,  firm  flesh, 
thick  skin,  fine  vinous  flavour,  bunch  medium. 

Grand  Turc.  — Long,  oval ,  purple  berry,  peculiar 
sweet  vinous  flavour,  berry  and  bunch  medium. 


502 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  October  16,  1909. 


AH  the  above,  as  their  names  imply,  are  of 
French  origin.  Where  not  otherwise  stated,  the 
berries  and  bunches  are  small,  but  with  severe 
thinning  the  berries  much  increase  in  size.  All  set 
freely  except  Grand  Turc.  All  are  of  healthy 
growth,  slender,  except  Raisin  Hardy  and  Grand 
Turc,  and   do  not  seem  to  have  any  tendency 

to  shank.  tt   -^  j  c^  i. 

Wing's  Red  Keeping.— From  the  United  btates 
of  America ;  berry  green,  heavily  klotehed  with 
red,  gelatinous  flesh.  Pineapple  flavour,  said  to 
keep  long,  vigorous  ;  foliage  handsome. 

All  the  above-named  Vines  are  very  cheap— 
none  of  them  more  than  Is.  3d.  eaoh-and  to  the 
amateur  wh»  prefers  variety  and  fine  flavour  to 
size  may  prove  interesting.  I  shall  be  happy 
to  reply  to  any  query  respecting  them  through 
your  columns.  O'Hanlon,  M.A. 

Innishannon  Rectory,  County  Cork. 

[We  welcome  this  letter  from  Ireland.  The 
class  of  Grape  described  is  of  delicious  flavour, 
and  we  feel  sure  many  of  our  readers  will 
appreciate  the  promise  of  further  information 
from  our  correspondent. — Ed  ] 


BRITISH-RAISED   ROSES. 

(Gmlinued  Jrom  page  490.) 
The  following  is  a  contiiiuation  of  the  list  of 
British-raised  Roses  which  was  begun  in  The 
Garden  of  last  week  (page  490).  Their  publica- 
tion has  aroused  much  interest  among  roaarians, 
and  in  several  letters  received  the  writers  have 
expressed  astonishment  that  so  many  hybrids 
and  varieties  well  known  in  our  gardens  have  been 
raised  by  British  growers  : 

Dainty,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Sob. 

Daisy,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

David  R.  Williamson,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Sou. 

Dawn,  H.T.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Dean  Hole,  H.T.,  A.  Diokson  and  Sons. 

Delicata,  Rug. ,  Cooling. 

Devoniensis,  T.,  Foster. 

Dora,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Dorothy,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 

Dorothy  Dennison,  Wich. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Dorothy  Page- Roberts,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Dr.  J.  Campbell  Hall,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Dr.  0.  Donald  Browne,  H.T.,  A.  Diokson  and 
Sons. 

Dr.  Sewell,  H.P.,  Turner. 

Dr.  William  Gordon,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Duchess  of  Albany,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Duchess  of  Bedford,  H.P.,  Postana. 

Duchess  of   Edinburgh,  H.T.,  J.  Veitoh  and 
Sons. 

Duchess  of  Fife,  H.P.,  Cooker. 

Dushess  of    Portland,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Duchess  of  Wellington,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Duchess  of  York,  H.P.,  Cocker. 

Duke  of  Albany,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  San. 

Duke  of  Connaught,  H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Duke  of  Edinburgh,  H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Duke  of  Fife,  H.P.,  Cocker. 

Duke  of  Teok,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Duke  of  York,  China,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Earl  of  Dufferin,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Earl  of  Gosford,  H.T.,  McGredy. 

Earl  of  Pembroke,  H.P. ,  Bennett. 

Earl  of  Warwick,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Edith  Bellenden,  Briar,  Lord  Penaance. 

Edith  D'ombrain,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Edith  Turner,  H.P.,  Turner. 

Elaine,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Eleotra,  Mult. ,  J.  Veitoh  and  Sons. 

Elizabeth  Barnes,  H.  T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Elizabeth  Kitto,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Ella  Gordon,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Ellen  Drew,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Empress  Alexandra  of   Russia,   T.,  W.    Paul 
and  Son. 


Enchantress,  T. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

E.  T.  Cook,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Ethel  Malcolm,  H.T.,  McGredy. 
Exquisite,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

F.  R.  Patzer,  H.T.,  A.  Diokson  and  Sons. 
Fair  Rosamond,  Hyb.  Cli.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Fairy,  Rambler,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Fairy  Queen,  T. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Field  Marshal,  China,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Flora  Molvor,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Florence    E.    Coulthwaite,  H.T.,   A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Florence  Paul,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Florence   Pemberton,  H.T.,  A.   Diokson  and 
Sons. 

Floribunda,  Noia.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Fortuna,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

George  Waud,  H.T.,  A.  Diokson  and  Sons. 

Gertrude,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Gladys  Harkness,  H.T.,  A.-  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Glory  of  Cheshunt,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Glory  of  Waltham,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Golden  Fairy,  Pol.,  Bennett. 

Golden  Queen,  Nois.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Goldfinch,  Mult.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Grace  Darling,  H.  T. ,  Bennett. 

Grace  Molyneux,  H.T.,  A.  Diokson  and  Sons. 

Grace  Thomson,  Mult.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Grand  Mogul,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Grandeur  of  Cheshunt,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Green  Mantle,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

H.  Armytage  Moore,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 

Harrison  Weir,  H.P.,  Turner. 

Harry  Kirk,  T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Heinrioh  Sohultheia,  H.P. ,  Bennett. 

Helen  Keller,  H.P.,  A.  Diokson  and  Sons. 

Her  Majesty,  H.P.,  Bennett. 

His  Majesty,  H.T.,  McGredy. 
("To  be  continued.) 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK. 

FOKTHCOMING   EVENTS. 

October  25. — National  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Floral  Committee  Meeting  at  Eaaex 
Hall,  Strand,  London,  W.C. 

October  26. — Royal  Horticultural  Soeiety'a 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Fruits  and  Vegetables, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster.  Lecture  at  3  p.  m. , 
by  Professor  6.  Henslow,  on  ' '  Remarkable 
Instanees  of  Plant  Dispersion." 

Our  Rose  Number.— it  is  gratifying  to 
kn»w  that  the  Rose  Number  of  The  Garden  pub- 
lished last  week  is  considered  by  many  of  our 
readers  as  one  of  the  most  charming  productions  of 
its  kind  ever  offered  to  the  public,  and  the  issue 
was  quickly  sold  out.  If  it  has  been  the  means 
of  bringing  still  more  forward  the  beauty  of  the 
Rose,  the  intense  interest  with  which  it  is 
regarded  by  those  who  cultivate  it,  and  spreading 
far  and  wide  a  deepening  love  for  our  beautiful 
flower,  then  the  publioation  of  our  Number  will 
not  have  been  in  vain.  A  feature  that  astonished 
those  not  well  versed  in  the  various  phases  of 
Rose-lore  consisted  of  the  portraits  of  famous 
Rose  raisers  in  these  isles,  and  we  hope  in  the 
future  our  readers  will  purchase  from  aur  nursery- 
men, trade  hybridists  and  general  roaarians,  and 
help  forward  an  industry,  if  we  may  so  express 
it,  that  deserves  every  encouragement.  We  are 
sorry  that  a  portrait  of  Mr.  Hugh  Dickson's 
brother  was  not  shown  in  our  special  supplement 
last  week.  Mr.  Dickson  is  known  to  rosariana 
as  one  of  the  most  successful  of  present-day 
hybridists,  and  has  contributed  much  towards 
making  our  gardens  beautiful  and  interesting. 

OleaPla  inslgnlB.— In  the  article  on 
Mr.  Gumbleton's  garden,  on  page  480,  Olearia 
nitida  should  read  Olearia  insignis. 

Bedford    Park:    Oapdeniner 

Society. — The  fourth  annual  general  meeting 
of  this  natural  history  and  gardening  society  for 
the  reception  of  the  report  of  the  committee  for 
the  aession  1908-9,  the  passing  of  accounts  and 


the  election  of  offieera  in  accordance  with  the 
constitution  of  the  society,  will  be  held  at  The 
Club,  Bedford  Park,  on  Saturday,  October  23, 
at  8  p.m.  There  will  be  the  usual  exhibi- 
tion of  natural  history  apecimena,  curios,  &c., 
and  members  are  specially  invited  to  exhibit 
specimens  of  silver  work,  coloured  engravinga, 
and  embroidery  and  lace.  The  committee  trust 
that  all  members  will  do  their  beat  to  aend 
something  to  ensure  a  successful  evening. 
Objects  for  exhibition  should  be  sent  to  the  Club 
between  4  p.m.  and  6  p.m.,  but  small,  valuable 
articles  may  be  brought  at  8  p.m.  A  short 
musical  programme  has  been  arranged,  and  tea 
and  light  refreshments  will  be  provided. — R.  H. 
Read,  Ron.  Secretary,  Camelol,  South  Parade, 
Bedford  Park,  W. 

The  National  Vegetable  Society. 
As  very  many  of  our  readers  have  felt  great 
interest  in  the  formation  and  objects  of  this 
newly  formed  society,  they  will  be  pleased  to 
learn  that  the  trials  of  autumn-sown  early  spring 
Cabbages  and  autumn-sown  Onions  conducted,  on 
diverse  soils,  by  Mr.  W.  Poupart  at  Twickenham, 
Mr.  G.  Hobday  at  Romford,  and  Mr.  C. 
Foster  on  Lord  Northoliffe's  experimental  farm 
in  Surrey,  are  full  of  promise  of  giving  excellent 
results.  All  the  varieties  are  known  to  these 
experimental  growers  under  numbers,  the 
names  being  known  only  to  the  trials  sub- 
committee. These  trials  should  have  great 
interest,  as  their  primary  object  is  to  ascertain 
commercial  values,  with  which,  in  the  case  of 
Cabbages  especially,  earlineaa  ia  of  the  chief  im- 
portance. At  a  recent  meeting  of  the  committee, 
Mr.  Foater  kindly  intimated  his  willingness  to 
have  a  trial  of  first  early  Cauliflowers,  the  aeed 
to  be  sown  under  glass  in  January,  the  plants 
being  put  outdoors  to  head  in  when  atrong.  It 
waa  regarded  aa  useless  to  put  first  early  dwarf 
Cauliflowers,  sown  in  March  or  April,  against 
ordinary  summer  and  autumn  varieties.  It  is 
well  to  understand  that  all  the  society's  trials 
are  to  have  a  further  primary  object — the 
ascertaining  of  the  highest  commercial  values 
both  of  varietiea  and  of  cultural  methods. 
Several  letters  were  read  at  the  meeting  asking 
for  further  information  as  to  the  operations  of  . 
the  society.  Mr.  E.  G.  Quick  of  Harrow  View, 
Wealdstone,  Harrow,  will  gladly  send  to  anyone 
enquiring  a  circular  just  issued  giving  full 
information.  One  letter  contained  a  request  for 
a  lecture  to  be  given  to  the  Ealing  Tenants 
Association.  It  was  agreed  to  accede  to  the 
request,  subject  to  financial  oonditiona.  The 
committee  having  resolved  to  hold  a  great 
national  exhibition  of  vegetables  in  the  Vincent 
Square  Hall  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society 
next  autumn,  aubject  to  sufficient  financial 
support  being  obtained,  it  was  agreed  to  secure 
the  hall  for  such  purpose  in  September  next, 
subject  to  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  con- 
ditions, and  also  to  issue  an  appeal  to  the  seed 
trade  for  offers  of  special  prizes  and  pecuniary 
assistance.  The  chairman,  Mr.  A.  Dean,  under- 
took to  issue  such  appeals.  Still,  offers  will  be 
gratefully  accepted. 


CORRESPONDENGE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible    for  the   opinuma 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 

Dahlia  Jeanne    Charmet.  —  What 

beautiful  flowers  this  old  variety  continues  to 
give  !  Notwithstanding  the  bad  weather  we 
recently  have  had,  I  still  have  good  blooms  which 
put  aome  of  the  newer  varietiea  in  the  shade  ; 
the  ground  colour  ia  pale  mauve  and  each  petal 
is  finely  edged  with  a  deeper  colour.  It  looks 
very  fine  in  specimen  glassea  with  green  foliage 
as  a  background.  It  should  be  more  grown. — 
E.  F.  Kemp,  Clapton. 

Curing  Tobacco  (In  reply  to  a  question 
asked  by  "  F.  P.  H.")— Gather  the  leaves  when 
dry  and  full  grown,  also  when  the  plant  is  dry 


October  16,  1909.1 


THE     GAKDEN. 


503 


if  possible.  Spread  the  leaves  out  singly  in  an 
old  shed  or  dry  place  out  of  the  sun  until  they 
beoorae  quite  flaccid  or  soft ;  then  procure  a  box, 
a  wooden  one  will  do,  and  carefully  place  the 
leaves  flat  one  on  top  of  the  other.  The  lid  of 
the  box  should  be  small  enough  to  fit  inside  the 
box,  and  when  the  leaves  are  carefully  placed 
and  all  used  up,  put  the  lid  on  and  then  a 
weight  on  top.  I  have  used  two  bricks  myself, 
but  a  square  281b.  weight  is  better.  Watch  them 
from  day  to  day,  and  as  soon  as  they  begin 
to  "sweat"  or  heat  spread  them  all  out 
carefully  one  by  one  ;  tiien,  when  they  get  dry, 
place  them  again  in  the  box  as  before  and  continue 
to  dry  and  pack  them  until  they  cease  to 
sweat.  The  final  drying  roust  be  carefully  done. 
In  curing,  take  a  small  quantity 
of  good  rum  and  mix  with  it  a 
little  new  honey,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  the  leaves.  Put  a 
nioe  piece  of  clean  paper,  without 
print,  in  the  bottom  of  the  box, 
and  with  a  small  brush  lightly 
brush  over  the  top  side  of  the 
leaf.  Lay  tie  leaves  in  the  box, 
and  continue  this  until  all  the 
leaves  have  been  treated.  Re- 
member to  only  brush  lightly 
one  side  of  the  leaf,  and  if  the 
mixture  is  too  thick  add  a  little 
water  to  make  it  usable.  Put 
on  the  lid,  place  all  the  pressure 
you  can  on  it,  and  leave  it  in  a 
warm  room  for  a  few  weeks  until 
the  leaves  become  caked.  Care- 
fully remove  the  cake  from  the 
box  and  dry  in  the  sun,  after 
bandaging  it  to  keep  it  from 
breaking.  When  dry  it  should 
be  a  nice  golden  brown,  and,  if 
carefully  out  up,  makes  an  excel- 
lent cigarette,  and  is  also  good 
for  the  pipe.  This  recipe  was 
obtained  for  me  by  the  late  Mr. 
George  Chambers  from  the  West 
Indies.  Mr.  Chambers  was  a 
Tobacco  broker  in  the  City  and 
knew  the  value  of  good  Tobacco, 
and  the  present  writer  sampled  it 
as  often  as  possible.  I  forgot  to 
mention  that  the  natives  in  the 
West  Indies,  I  am  told,  use 
molasses  instead  of  rumand  honey. 
— Edward  F.  Kemp. 

A  window  -  sill  Fock 
gr&Pden. — The  obituary  notice 
of  the  late  Mr.  Peter  Barr  in 
your  issue  of  October  2  mentions 
his  window-sill  rook  garden,  and 
this  emboldens  me  to  send  you  a 
short  account  of  my  own.  Upon 
a  narrow  brick  ledge  projecting 
beneath  the  actual  wooden  sill  of 
my  bedroom  window,  which  faces 
east,  I  constructed  twelve  months 
ago  a  rook  i^arden  whose  dimen- 
sions are  4  feet  by  2J  inches.  It 
contains,  however,  thirty  plants 
in  seventeen  difierent  varieties — 
some  ten  Sedums,  three  Semper- 
vivums,  Arenaria,  Pennyroyal, 
Mother  of  Thousands,  and  a  creeping  alpine  bear- 
ing blue  Daisy-like  flowers  whose  name  I  do  not 
know.  The  last-mentioned,  together  with  two 
different  Houseleeks,  I  brought  from  the  shores 
of  Como,  several  of  the  Sedums  from  Dartmoor 
and  another  from  the  Cheddar  cliffs,  and 
Arenaria,  Pennyroyal,  &c.,  from  West  Country 
walls,  so  that  a  glance  at  my  window-sill  serves 
to  remind  me  of  many  happy  holidays.  The 
making  of  the  garden  was  itself  a  fascinating 
process,  I  first  cemented  a  row  of  narrow  stones 
along  the  outer  edge,  choosing  from  a  fcrmer 
collection  such  as  were  in  themtelves  beautiful — 
pieces  of  pink  quartz,  giey  granite,  white  marble, 
or  the  purple  amethyst  crystal  found  in 
CoLnemara,      Thete,   too,   have  all  com9  back 


with  me  from  holiday  rambles.  The  slope  of  the 
ledge  serves  to  drain  away  all  superfluous 
moisture  through  the  crannies  of  this  boundary 
wall,  within  which  the  actual  depth  of  soil,  a 
mixture  mainly  of  peat  and  sand,  nowhere 
exceeds  1  inch.  The  little  plants,  however,  are 
evidently  quite  at  home  and  have  completely 
covered  the  surface  ;  and  even  now  when  their 
flowers  are  at  an  end  the  interlacing  greens  and 
greys,  with  here  and  there  a  touch  of  autumnal 
crimson,  are  a  fresh  joy  to  behold  every  morning, 
and  bid  fair  to  last  throughout  the  winter  as  a 
pleasing  foreground  to  the  bare  prospect  beyond. 
I  can  heartily  recommend  such  a  garden  in 
miniature  to  all  lovers  of  the  "green  things  of  the 
earth."— Muriel  Kenny,  Wistbye,  Cambridge. 


MB.    WILLIAM   KELWAT. 

Rose   David  Harum.— In  Mr.  Moly- 

neux's  ' '  Notes  on  Newer  Roses "  he  says  of 
David  Harum  :  "  David  Harum  (E.  G.  Hill  and 
Co.,  1904). — I  think  we  can  do  without  this 
Rose.  I  have  grown  it  for  three  seasons  and 
have  not  had  a  really  first-class  flower."  This 
has  not  been  my  experience.  I  have  grown 
it  for  two  seasons,  have  had  some  very  perfect 
blooms,  and  have  exhibited  it  in  a  winning 
box  at  the  National  Rose  Society's  summer 
exhibition.  The  only  point  it  seems  to  lack 
is  size,  but  I  have  a  beautiful  bloom  in  front 
of  me  as  I  write  which  is  over  4  inches  across 
and  has  a  nice  pointed  centre  surrounded  by 
beautifully  reflexed  petals. — W-  P-  Panckridob, 
Petersfidd, 


WORKERS     AMONG     THE 
FLOWERS. 

Mr.  William  Kblway. 

WHEREVER  a  love  of  garden- 
ing and  of  horticulture  generally 
exists,  the  name  of  Kelway  is 
a  household  word.  On  many 
occasions  we  have  visited  the 
nurseries  not  far  removed  from 
the  quaint  Somerset  town  of  Langport,  and 
revelled  in  the  flowers  of  every  kind  that  are 
spread  over  those  many  acres.  It  is  a  common 
supposition  that  the  energy  and  foresight  of  this 
firm  are  directed  to  the  improving  of  a  few 
flowers — the  Delphinium,  Gladio- 
lus, Pyrethrum,  PiBony  and  others 
with  which  the  name  of  Kelway 
has  been  closely  identified  for 
more  than  one  generation  ;  but 
this  is  a  mistaken  conception. 
Horticulture  and  agriculture  are 
represented  in  the  highest  degree, 
and  to  roam  through  the 
splendidly  maintained  acres  is  a 
revelation  to  those  who  have 
never  seen  this  home  of  flowers 
and  vegetables  placed  amid  beau- 
tiful and  interesting  surround- 
ings. It  is  not  of  the  nursery  we 
are  thinking  now,  but  of  those 
who  in  the  past  have  controlled 
this  great  establishment  and  who 
are  continuing  the  glorious  work 
to-day.  It  is  a  pleasure  and  a 
privilege  to  add  the  name  of  Mr. 
William  Kelway,  the  head  of  the 
firm,  to  our  gallery  of  "  Workers 
Among  the  Fliiwera." 

Although  seldom  seen  in  these 
days  at  the  great  London  exhi- 
bitions, Mr.  Kelway  carries  on 
the  same  work  as  in  yenre  ago, 
and  in  this  the  help  of  his  son, 
Mr.  James  Kelway,  ie  aburdartly 
manifest.  The  histt^ry  of  Mr. 
Kelway  is  the  history  of  manj  a 
famous  flower  that  has  brdught 
joy  to  the  heart  of  the  gardener, 
and  such  a  mission  in  lite  as  that 
of  raising  new  flowers  and  whole- 
some vegetables,  to  bring  hajpi- 
nesB  and  health  to  the  honie,  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
useful  that  one  can  conceive  in 
this  age  of  artificiality  and  unrest. 
In  paying  a  tribute  to  Mr.  Kelway 
we  pay  a  tribute  to  horticulture 
in  general,  an  unknown  world  to 
those  whose  business  is  outside 
its  workings  ;  but  much  of  the 
prosperity  and  the  comfort  of  the 
great  public  in  this  country  are 
due  to  those  who  have  worked 
in  the  past  and  are  working  in 
the  present  for  the  good  of  the 
community.  Some  will  say  "it  is 
simply  business."  Business  it  is, 
but  married  to  something  higher 
than  mere  conventional  trading. 
Ability,  lare  discernment  and  determination 
are  qualities  that  have  raised  the  hybridist 
far  above  the  ordinary  toilers  in  the  many 
phases  of  British  industry.  To  chronicle  merely 
the  names  of  the  flowers  and  vegetables 
raised  by  Mr.  Kelway  would  fill  many  pages  of 
The  Garden,  and  if  evidence  of  this  were 
necessary,  those  who  are  in  doubt  should  consult 
the  most  practical  illustrated  guide,  the  "Manual 
of  Horticulture,"  issued  yearly  from  the  Langport 
nurseries.  .  . 

Mr.  Kelway's  home  is  filled  with  many 
treasures  and  surrounded  by  a  delightful  old- 
world  garden  containing  flowers  in  groups  and 
displaying  exquisite  associations  of  coleur. 
Uneomn;on   climbing    plants    drape    the    walls, 


504 


THE    GAEDEN. 


(October  16,  1909. 


amoDg  them  the  finest  white  Wistaria  in  the 
country — at  least,  we  have  discovered  none  to 
excel  it  in  dimensions  and  vigour.  We  are  in  a 
land  of  flowers  in  Langport — flowers  in  the 
spacious  acres  surrounding  the  nursery  and 
flowers  around  the  home  of  one  to  whom  we  wish 
many  years  of  happiness  in  pursuing  a  noble 
work,  that  of  raising,  improving  and  cultivating 
the  good  things  of  the  earth. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


P 


HOW  TO   PLANT  AND   TREAT 
A   HEDGE. 
.  LANTING.— A  well-grown  hedge  often 
adds    an  ornamental   feature  to  the 
garden  and  is  a  pleasure,  but  a  poor 
hedge   is   an    eyesore   and   therefore 
detracts    rather    than    adds    to    the 
general    appearance.       The    land   on 
which  hedges  are  planted  should  be  well  prepared ; 
it  is  a  mistake  to  think  that  even  such  things  as 
Laurels,  Privet  or  Thorn  will  grow  and  form  a 
good  hedge  without  special  care  in  this  respect. 
Instances   are  rare  when  the  common  subjects 
mentioned  will  thrive  for  many  years  as  hedge 
plants  unless  they  ace  afforded  good  treatment 
from  the  first.     Even  on  good  soils  it  is  much 
wiser  to  trench  the  soil  at  least  2  feet  deep  ; 
while   on   poor,  gravelly  or   sandy   soils    rotten 
manure,   leaf-mould   or  burnt  vegetable  refuse 
should  be  incorporated  with  the  staple.    On  very 
stiff  clay  road  grit  may  be  added,  and  at  the  time 
of  planting  place  some  light  soil  or  leaf -mould,  if 
available,  around  the  roots  to  encourage  an  early 
and  free  root-action.     There  are  many  subjects 
suitable  for  planting  as  hedges,  both  evergreen 
and  deciduous,   and   the  intending  planter  can 
select  from  a  nursery  catalogue  (or,  better  still,  by 
paying  a  visit  to  the  nursery)  the  class  of  plant 
that  will  suit  his  purpose.      On   their    arrival 
from  the  nursery  no  time  should  be  lost  (weather 
permitting)    before   they  are  planted.       If   the 
roots  are  dry,  immerse  them  in   water  ;  young 
plants  of  Thorn  (commonly  known  as  Quick), 
also  Privet  and  Hornbeam,  should   be  planted 
thickly  in  double  rows.     Yews,  Hollies,  Arbor- 
vitajs  and  similar  plants  may  be  placed  thickly 
in   single  rows.     Golden   Yews  are  very  orna- 
mental and  may  be  often  used  with  good  effect. 
When  planting  care   must    be    taken   to    keep 
shrubs  in  a  direct  line,  also  at  an  equal  distance, 
so    that    when  completed  a  neat  and  uniform 
hedge  is  the  result.     Make  the  soil  quite  firm 
about  the  roots  by  treading,  and  keep  the  plants 
in  a  vertical  position.     Finish  the  work  of  plant- 
ing by  applying  a  mulch  of  manure  or  leaf -mould. 
The  mulch  is  a  great  aid  in  the  production  of 
new  roots  by  maintaining  an  even  temperature 
of  the  soil,  also  by  preventing  rapid  evaporation. 
It  may  be  necessary  to  apply  water  should  a  dry 
spell  of  weather  occur.     When  filling  up  gaps 
in     established  hedges    with    new   plants,    the 
same  care  should  be  taken  to  secure  a  good  root- 
ing medium,  and  in  this  case  the  necessity  of 
frequent  watering  will  be  more  apparent,  owing 
to   the    numerous    roots    from    the  established 
plants  drawing    a  large   quantity    of  moisture 
from  the  soil.     To  ensure  a  well-furnished  hedge 
of  Thorn,  Privet  and  similar  plants. 

Pruning  must  be  commenced  the  first  season 
after  planting,  and  henceforth  annually.  At  the 
first  pruning  the  young  plants  should  be  cut  down 
to  within  H  inches  of  the  ground.  This  ensures 
a  free  growth  of  young  shoots  from  the  base 
which  will  form  the  foundation  of  a  good  hedge. 
The  next  season  these  shoots  should  be  cut  to 
about  a  foot  from  their  base  if  fairly  strong  ;  cut 
them  back  harder  if  weak  ;  if  extra  strong  leave 
them  rather  longer.  This  system  of  pruning 
should  be  continued  annually  in  March  until  the 
hedge  has  reached  the  desired  size.  Afterwards 
the  pruning  consists  of  clipping  the  young  shoots 
to  maintain  a  thick  growth  and  an  impregnable 
fence.  For  the  sake  of  a  neat  appearance  clip  twice 


during  the  season,  viz. ,  early  in  .June  and  again 
in  September,  when  growth  is  completed.  Ever- 
greens, owing  to  their  dense  growth,  do  not 
require  such  hard  pruning,  but  the  young  shoots 
must  be  carefully  cut  back  each  autumn. 

Ajler  Treatment.— To  assist  in  a  free,  healthy 
growth  an  annual  mulch  of  rotten  farmyard 
manure  is  excellent,  and  where  available  should 
certainly  be  applied.  Failing  the  manure,  bone- 
meal  has  been  found  to  produce  good  results, 
especially  when  applied  to  hedges  of  Yew.  Give 
a  good  soaking  with  water  before  and  after 
applying  any  fertiliser.  Always  keep  the  ground 
at  the  base  of  the  plants  free  from  weeds. 
Hedges  growing  near  large  deciduous  trees 
frequently  collect  a  large  quantity  of  leaves  at 
their  base  ;  these  should  be  removed,  as  if 
allowed  to  accumulate  the  plants  become  choked, 
and  the  loss  of  some  of  the  bottom  branches  will 
eventually  be  the  result.    On  light  soils  evergreen 


borne  during  August  in  long,  terminal  inflores- 
cences, almost  every  branch  being  responsible 
for  a  head  of  flowers.  It  is  a  native  of  the  South- 
Eastern  United  States,  and  thrives  in  quite  poor 
soil,  being  well  adapted  for  almost  any  kind  of 
ornamental  planting.  W.  Uallimore. 


THE     KITCHEN     GARDEN. 


T 


A   NEW   APPLE   (REV.  W.  WILKS). 

^__,  when  established,  will  require  occa- 
sional supplies  of  water,  as  owing  to  their  dense 
foliage  very  little  water  will  reach  their  roots 
even  in  the  event  of  heavy  rains.  C.  Ruse. 


SHRUBBY    CHESTNUT. 

(/ESCULUS   PABVIFLORA.) 

species  differs  from   the  majority  of 


This  species  differs  from  the  majority  of  the 
members  of  the  Horse  Chestnut  family  by  being 
of  low  bushy  habit  and  never  approaching  tree 
form,  as  is  usual  with  other  low-growing  sorts, 
such  as  .E.  californica  and  -E.  Pavia.  It  grows 
from  8  feet  to  12  feet  high,  and  spreads  over  a 
considerable  area  by  means  of  a  succession  of 
shoots  from  the  rootstock.  The  leaves  are 
similar  in  shape  to  those  of  the  common  Horse 
Chestnut,  but  they  are  thinner  in  texture  and 
have  a  more  glossy  surface.  The  flowers  are 
white   with  long  projecting   stamens,   and    are 


NOTES    ON    CULINARY    PEAS. 
A  Reason  fob  Failure. 

HERE  is  considerable  grumbling  this 
season  among  local  gardeners  as  to 
the  Pea  crop,  many  of  them  reporting 
a  very  unsatisfactory  season  all 
through,  as  the  pods  have  filled  badly. 
I  am  pleased  to  say  that  I  have  had 
the  finest  Peas  I  have  ever  grown,  and  think  that 
I  am  now  reaping  the  reward  for  years  of  careful 
selection  of  varieties.  The  season  was  certainly 
very  late,  our  first  picking  having  been  obtained  on 
July  16.  I  should  explain  that  we  do  not  force 
Peas  or  start  them  in  boxes,  but  just  sow  on  a 
south  border  on  the  first  opportunity  after  the 
beginning  of  February.  The  first  dish  was  had 
from  The  Pilot,  which  gives  an  excellent  crop  and 
is  of  good  flavour  for  an  early  Pea.  This  was 
followed  at  an  interval  of  six  days  by  Early 
Bountiful,  which  I  tried  for  the  first  time.  This 
produced  the  heaviest  crop  of  early  Peas  I  have 
ever  seen,  and  it  remained  in  bearing  for  weeks 
on  end.  I  shall  certainly  grow  this  variety 
again.  It  is  of  very  good  table  quality.  I  have 
always  had  considerable  trouble  regarding  a 
second  early  Pea,  Gradus  refusing  to  succeed  here. 
I  have  tried  Edwin  Beckett  these  last  few  years, 
but  although  certainly  better  than  Gradus  it  still 
left  a  good  deal  to  be  desired.  I  was  then  advised 
to  try  Senator,  and  now  I  think  that  I  have  solved 
the  problem,  as  this  sort  gave  a  wonderful  crop 
of  splendid  Peas.  The  pods  are  not  so  large  as 
some,  but  are  closely  packed  with  large  Peas, 
pale  green  in  colour,  but  of  excellent  flavour. 

Boston  Unrivalled,  as  usual,  gave  a  splendid 
crop,  and  I  would  not  like  to  be  without  this 
gr.ind  Pea.  Carter's  Dreadnought  I  tried  for  the 
first  time,  and  conpider  it  an  excellent  variety 
and  will  certainly  grow  it  again.  It  is  a  very 
sturdy  grower,  the  Peas  being  of  a  fine  deep 
green  colour  and  of  rich  flavour.  Glory  of  Devon, 
as  always  here,  gave  a  heavy  crop  of  well-filled 
pods,  and  these  of  excellent  quality.  The 
Gladstone  was  probably  finer  than  I  have  ever 
seen  it  here,  and  that  is  saying  a  good  deal.  I 
have  still  (September  30)  a  long  row  untouched, 
which  is  carrying  a  crop  of  large,  well-filled  pods. 
Royal  Salute  is  without  doubt  the  finest  of  all 
late  Peas  here.  I  sow  it  at  different  times  from 
mid-April  till  the  end  of  May,  and  it  never  fails 
to  give  a  heavy  crop  of  well-filled  pods.  The 
Peas  are  very  large  and  of  the  very  highest  table 
quality.  From  nine  to  eleven  Peas  in  each  pod 
is  the  average.  Carter's  Michaelmas  I  do  not 
intend  to  grow  again.  It  is  an  excellent  Pea,  but 
does  not  succeed  here  every  year,  so  must  go.  This 
year  it  grew  nearly  6  feet  high  and  set  badly.  It 
requires  a  warmer  district  than  this. 

The  old  variety  G.  F.  Wilson  I  tried  again 
this  season,  and  a  very  fine  crop  it  has  given, 
but  the  Peas  are  very  small  and  rather  tasteless, 
•o  I  shall  not  trouble  it  again.  Carter's  Daisy 
I  have  left  to  the  last,  and  it  has  certainly  been 
anything  but  the  least.  I  now  grow  no  other 
dwarf  Pea,  and  were  I  confined  to  but  one  variety 
this  is  the  one  I  should  select.  Every  year  it  is 
good,  but  this  season  it  has  fairly  eclipsed  itself. 
It  grew  fully  3  feet  high  and  was  covered  with 
its  large,  straight  pods.  If  one  did  not  know, 
they  would  imagine,  from  the  size  of  the  pods, 
that  they  had  been  picked  from  eome  strong, 
tall  variety.  When  I  say  that  the  majority  of 
the  pods  contained  ten  Peas  of  a  large  size  it  will 
be  understood  the  return  was  a  paying  one.  This 
Pea  is  also  one  of  the  best  flavoured  I  have  tasted. 
Prtsttm  House,  Linlithgow.  C  Blaie, 


October  16,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


505 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


FRUIT   TREES    AT    MESSRS.    JAMES 
VEITCH  AND  SONS'  NURSERIES. 

VISITORS  to  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  fortnightly  meetings  must 
all  be  familiar  with  the  splendid 
exhibits  of  fruit  displayed  at  short 
intervals  by  Messrs.  James  Veitch 
and  Sons,  Limited,  of  Chelsea.  At 
one  time  it  will  be  a  magnificent  coUeetion  of 
Gooseberries,  at  another  a  superb  collection  of 
fruit  trees  in  pots,  and  again  it  will  be  a  repre- 
sentative collection  of  British-grown  fruits. 
Whatever  the  exhibit  may  be — and  as  our  readers 
know,  the  whole  energy  of  the  firm  is  not 
devoted  to  fruit  trees — remarkably  good  quality 
is  to  be  observed  throughout. 

To  exhibit  such  superb  collections  of  fruit 
naturally  means  a  good  stock  to  seleet  from, 
and  consequently  we  determined  to  visit  the 
fruits  in  their  homes  and  see  for  ourselves  what 
the  firm  is  doing  in  the  way  of  raising  young 
trees.  Two  extensive  nurseries  are 
largely  occupied  by  young  fruit 
trees,  one  at  Langley  in  Bucks  and 
the  other  at  Feltham  in  Middlesex. 
It  was  to  the  former  that  we 
journeyed  first,  a  short,  rapid  and 
easy  trip  on  the  Great  Western 
Railway  from  Paddington  landing 
us  at  Slough,  whence  the  nur- 
series are  easily  reached.  The 
first  glimpse  well  repaid  our  visit, 
and  the  model  fruit  storing-house 
situated  here  is  well  worth  going  to 
see.  However,  fruit  trees  were  our 
object  for  the  day,  and  no  time  was 
lost  in  getting  to  work.  And  now 
comes  a  difficult  task.  To  describe 
all  we  saw  would  easily  fill  one 
issue  of  The  Garden,  and  we  wish 
space  permitted  of  a  longer  notice 
on  this  occasion.  We  should 
mention  that  stone  fruits  are  not 
grown  at  Langley  owing  to  the  soil 
being  too  strong  ;  these  are  grown 
at  Feltham,  and  will  be  referred  to 
later. 

Trained  trees  of  all  kinds,  sizes 
and  shapes,  are  a  great  speciality  of 
the  firm,  and  we  inspected  thousands 
of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  from  the 
tiny  maidens  just  undergoing  their 
first  training  in  the  way  they  should 
go  to  monster  fruiting  specimens 
that  would  cover  a  14-feet  run  of 
wall  or  fencing  at  once,  these  being 
perfect  in  every  way.  As  they  are 
Ufted  and  replanted  every  other 
winter,  they  will  move  well,  and 
where  a  gap  is  caused  that  it  is 
desired  to  fill  at  once,  these  are  the 
trees  to  do  it  with.  In  addition  to 
the  trained  trees,  large  fruiting 
specimens  of  standards,  half- 
standards,  bush  and  pyramid  forms 
can  always  be  supplied  by  the  firm. 
Then  there  were  the  single,  double 
and  triple  cordons  of  Apples  and 
Pears  to  be  seen  by  the  thousand, 
many  of  them  carrying  good  crops 
of  first-class  fruit. 

Apples  and  Pears  in  pyramid 
form  on  dwarfing  stocks  next 
claimed  our  attention  and  fairly  captivated  us. 
Of  the  Pears,  we  noticed  some  pyramid  trees 
carrying  really  wonderful  crops  of  fruit,  and 
one  little  tree  of  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey, 
3J  feet  high,  had  no  fewer  than  thirty-three 
large  and  almost  perfect  fruits  depending 
from  its  branches.  It  must  suffice  if  we  say 
that  Messrs.  Veitch  have  here  trees  of  every 
variety  that  is  worth  growing  ;  it  would  take  up 
too  much  space  to  enumerate  them.     Of  Apples, 


however,  we  must  mention  one  or  two  of  the 
firm's  novelties.  Feltham  Beauty  is  a  first-class 
early  variety  that  no  garden  worthy  of  the  name 
can  affijrd  to  be  without.  It  is  ready  for  eating 
in  August,  and  is  without  doubt  the  best  early 
Apple  we  have.  The  fruits  are  of  medium  size, 
have  yellow  flesh  and  skin  striped  with  red,  and 
the  flavour  is  sweet  and  brisk  and  far  more 
pronounced  than  that  found  in  any  other  early 
Apple.  Its  parents  were  Mr.  Gladstone  and 
Cox's  Orange  Pippin.  The  Rev.  W.  Wilks  is 
a  new  culinary  variety  that  Messrs.  Veitch 
brought  out  last  year,  and  is,  undoubtedly,  a 
wonderful  cropper.  Peasgood's  Nonsuch  and 
Ribston  Pippin  were  its  parents,  and  while  it 
possesses  the  large  size,  vigorous  habit  and  free- 
cropping  qualities  of  the  first-named,  it  has  also 
inherited  a  good  amount  of  the  flavour  of  the 
latter.  Trees  grafted  a  year  ago  last  March  were 
carrying  in  nearly  every  instance  five  or  six 
wonderful  fruits,  and  larger  specimens  were 
bearing  in  like  proportion.  We  need  only 
mention  that  both  these  varieties  have  secured 
awards  of  merit  from  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society.     Bramley's  Seedling,  Bismarck,  Langley 


firm.  Messrs.  Veitch  have  several  times  staged 
a  collection  of  100  varieties  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society,  and  this  may,  perhaps, 
give  our  readers  some  idea  of  the  extent  to 
which  these  are  grown.  Hundreds  of  thousands 
of  bushes  of  these  and  Currants  we  saw, 
and  not  a  trace  of  big-bud  could  we  discern 
in  the  Black  Currants.  We  might  mention  here 
also  that,  although  we  specially  looked  for  it, 
we  could  not  find  a  trace  of  any  disease  or  insect 
pest  of  a  serious  character  in  any  of  the  fruit 
trees,  a  fact  that  is  really  extraordinary  where 
so  many  are  grown.  Strawberries  are  grown 
extensively,  and  large  quantities  of  strong  plants 
layered  in  pots  and  runners  from  the  open  ground 
were  being  despatched  to  all  parts. 

Medlars  and  Walnuts  are  sometimes  wanted, 
and  it  is  not  always  that  one  knows  where  to 
obtain  good  trees.  At  Langley  Messrs.  Veitch 
have  some  grand  trees,  large  specimens  of 
Walnuts  that  are  warranted  to  transplant  well, 
and  standard  Medlars  with  stems  as  straight  as 
a  gun-barrel  and  almost  as  sturdy. 

A  unique  feature  at  this  nursery  is  the  number 
of  young  Apple  trees  on  which  Mistletoe  has  been 


-^■-^ 


TREE  OF  PEAR  LOUISE  BONNE  OF  JERSEY. 


Pippin,  Ribston  Pippin  and  that  grand  old  Apple 
Blenheim  Orange  were  all  fruiting  splendidly 
where  worked  on  the  Paradise  stock,  notwith- 
standing that  the  trees  were  only  three  or  four 
years  old.  Frogmore  Prolific  is  a  splendid 
cooking  Apple  and  a  remarkable  cropper.  When 
baked  the  fruits  are  excellent. 

Of  Gooseberries  there  were  trained  bushes 
galore,  single,  double  and  triple  cordons  and 
standards  of  these  being  a  great  speciality  of  the 


induced  to  grow.  Anyone  desirous  of  obtaining 
this  interesting  plant  parasite  can  therefore 
secure  it,  host  and  all,  a  fact  that  many  of  our 
readers  will  probably  like  to  know. 

At  Feltham  we  were  especially  concerned  with 
the  stone  fruits,  such  as  Peaches  and  Nectarines, 
Apricots,  Plums,  Cherries  and  also  Figs  and 
Vines,  all  of  which  are  grown  in  prodigious 
quantities.  In  addition  to  the  above-named 
kinds,  Apples  and  Pears  are  grown  in  pots  at 


506 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  16,  1909. 


these  Durseried,  and  we  saw  thousands  of  pot 
trees  for  orchard-house  culture  in  the  very  pink 
of  condition  and  in  all  stages  of  their  career.  In 
the  houses  the  Peaches,  Nectarines  and  Apricots 
were  a  eight  long  to  be  remembered.  AH  the 
best  and  latest  varieties  were  included,  and 
pyramid  as  well  as  large,  fan-trained  trees  for 
the  walls  and  ends  of  houses  were  to  be  seen. 

To  the  large  house  of  Figs  we  cannot  give 
enough  praise  ;  certainly  we  have  never  seen  a 
better  lot  anywhere,  and  considering  the  quantity 
grown  this  is  saying  a  great  deal.  Like  all  other 
kinds,  every  good  variety  is  stocked,  and  trees  of 
almost  any  shape  can  be  obtained,  from  tall 
standards  to  tiny  dwarfs.  The  Vines,  too,  were 
a  splendid  lot.  Long,  stout,  well-ripened  canes 
were  the  rule,  and  if  they  do  not 
succeed  when  planted  in  their 
permanent  quarters  it  will  not  be 
due  to  any  fault  of  the  firm. 

Outdoors  the  trained  trees  of 
P»aches,  Nectarines,  Plums, 
Cherries  and  Apricots  were  per- 
fect, and,  like  the  Apples  and 
Pears  at  Langley,  were  to  be  seen 
in  all  sizes  and  many  shapes. 
Cordon  Plums  and  Cherries,  and 
Nuts,  Mulberries,  Loganberries 
and  other  fruits  were  all  finding  a 
temporary  home  here,  fron;  which 
they  will  doubtless  be  ousted 
before  long  to  find  a  permanent 
situation  in  gardens  far  apart  and 
in  greatly  varying  climes. 

After  a  long  and  exceedingly 
interesting  day,  and  as  we  were 
leaving  Feltham,  we  were  led  to 
ask  ourselves  the  question.  What 
does  it  all  mean,  this  enormous 
production  of  fruit  trees  that  goes 
on  year  by  year  at  these  and  other 
nurseries  ?  and  the  only  answer  to 
it  is,  we  think,  that  there  is  year 
by  year  a  greater  interest  being 
taken  in  all  branches  of  gardening 
by  rich  and  poor  alike,  and, 
consequently,  an  ever-increasing 
demand  for  fruit  trees  and  other 
subjects.  The  fruit  catalogue 
published  by  Messrs.  Veitch,  which 
we  believe  can  be  had  post  free, 
gives  full  particulars  of  the  fruit 
trees  here  briefly  mentioned. 


Taking  dessert  Apples  first,  a  fine  set  of  six 
might  consist  of  Beauty  of  Bath,  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin,  Worcester  Pearmain  (not  first-class  in 
flavour,  but  splendid  in  appearance  and  absolutely 
reliable),  King  of  the  Pippins,  Hormead  Pear- 
main  and  Fearn's  Pippin.  These  will  give  the 
grower  a  long  season  of  use,  provided  that  those 
which  will  keep,  such  as  Hormead  Pearmain  and 
Fearn's  Pippin,  are  allowed  to  hang  long  on  the 
trees,  and  are  then  gathered  carefully  and  stored 
in  a  suitable  place.  For  cooking  purposes  Stirling 
Castle,  Frogmore  Prolific,  Lord  Derby,  Potts' 
Seedling,  Royal  Jubilee  and  Warner's  King  are 
excellent. 

Pears. — As  these  do  not  thrive  as   well  as 
Apples  in  the  majority  of  gardens,  and  in  any 


I 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

CoKDONS — Selections  or  Varie- 
ties.— It  was   suggested  towards 
the  conclusion  of   the  last  notes 
on    this   subject   that  the  buyer 
might   advantageously   leave    the 
selection  in  the  hands  of  the  nur- 
seryman ;   but  as  there  are  many 
growers    who    prefer    to    specify 
their    own   varieties,   it   will    be 
useful  if  a  few  of    each   of   the 
leading  kinds  are  named.     It  must 
be   perfectly  understood    at    the 
outset  that  these  are  not  neces- 
sarily given  as  the  best  that  can 
be  chosen  ;   they  are  undoubtedly 
good  and  reliable,  but  additional  selections    of 
practically  equal  merit  could  be  easily  compiled. 
All  are  suitable    for    single,   double    or  treble 
stemmed  plants,  the  first-named  giving,  as  a  rule, 
the  finest  fruits. 

Apples.  —  A  serious  trouble  which  faces 
one  who  commences  to  make  selections  is  to 
know  how  many  varieties  of  a  kind  shall  be 
decided  upon,  since  it  is  practically  impossible  to 
find  two  gardens  in  which  the  requirements  are 
identical.  It  has  been  decided  to  enumerate 
dozens  and  half-dozens  of  each  of  the  most  im- 
portant kinds ;  in  the  possible  event  of  any 
reader  wanting  fewer  or  more  varieties,  if  he  will 
write  to  the  Editor  definitely  stating  his  needs 
the  information  will    be  promptly   forthcoming. 


Duchess  must  be  grown,  but  the  flavour  is  nearly, 
if  not  quite,  third-rate.  It  should  be  noted  in 
the  case  of  the  earliest  Apples  and  Pears  that 
they  lose  their  flavour  almost  as  soon  as  they  are 
taken  from  the  tree,  and  they  should,  therefore, 
be  gathered  for  immediate  use  if  their  finest 
qualities  are  to  be  appreciated. 

Plums. — Speaking  generally,  these  are  not  as 
suitable  for  culture  in  cordon  form  as  either  of 
the  kinds  to  which  attention  has  already  been 
drawn,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the  repressive 
measures  that  are  imperative  in  this  phase  of 
culture  are  apt  to  be  resented  by  stone  fruits.  It 
is,  however,  possible  by  especially  good  manage- 
ment to  secure  satisfactory  crops  ;  but  wherever 
it  is  possible  to  afford  the  wall  space,  one  should 
always  give  the  preference  to  fan- 
shaped  trees  as  being  more  reliable 
and  easier  to  manage  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year.  Six  superb  dessert 
Plums  are  Belgian  Purple,  Bryan- 
ston  Gage,  Coe's  Qolden  Drop, 
Jefferson's,  Reine  Claude  de  Bavay 
and  Denniston's  Superb.  For 
cooking,  CzakT,  Emperor,  Pond's 
Seedling,  Victoria,  Monarch  and 
Diamond  may  be  recommended. 
Victoria,  which  is  the  best  general- 
purpose  Plum  we  have,  may  prove 
the  most  difficult  as  a  cordon. 

Gooseberries  and  Currants. 
Six  Gooseberries  for  flavour  are 
Early  Sulphur,  Red  Champagne, 
Pitmaston  Green  Gage,  Langley 
Beauty,  Langley  Gage  and  Golden 
Gem ;  while  for  cooking.  Keepsake, 
Whinham's  Industry,  Lancashire 
Lad,  Whitesmith,  Warrington 
and  Antagonist  are  splendid. 
Warrington  is  especially  useful 
for  hanging  late  on  north  walls. 
Two  good  Red  Currants  are  Baby 
Castle  and  La  Versaillaise,  and  a 
good  white  is  White  Dutoh. 
Black  Currants  are  not,  of 
course,  suitable  for  this  system  of 
culture.  Fruit-gbower. 


THE 


APPLE   BISMARCK, 

case  are  not  so  serviceable,  it  will  scarcely  be 
necessary  to  name  more  than  six  varieties, 
especially  if  these  are  chosen  with  a  view  to  a 
very  long  season  of  use,  as  well  as  for  their 
flavour  and  appearance.  It  may  be  well  to 
arrange  them  in  their  order  of  ripening,  so  that 
those  who  only  desire  to  have  three  sorts  can 
simply  reduce  the  number  and  still  have  a  satis- 
factory selection.  For  half-a-dozen,  then,  pre- 
ference might  well  be  given  to  Jargonelle, 
Williams's  Bon  Chretien,  Emile  d'Heyst,  Doyenn^ 
du  Comiee,  Marie  Louise  and  Glou  Mor9eau  or 
Josephine  de  Malines.  If  only  three  were  required, 
the  choice  might  be  the  second,  fourth  and  fifth 
named,  if  these  gave  a  long  enough  season  to 
please  the  grower.     For  grand  fruits  Pitmaston 


PLANTING     OF     A 
NUT    WALK. 

[Tn  Reply  to  Mrs.  J.  H.  <S.] 
The  position  being  an  exposed 
one,  we  advise  that  a  double  row 
of  trees  be  planted.  They  will 
protect  each  other  and  the  bushes 
will  develop  to  a  much  larger 
size  in  far  less  time  than  if 
planted  in  single  rows.  A  good 
width  for  a  Nut  walk  is  9  feet, 
and  the  trees  should  be  planted 
8  feet  apart  each  way.  The 
ground  where  the  trees  are  to  be 
planted  should,  if  possible,  be 
trenched  2  feet  deep,  and  if  a 
good  dressing  of  manure  can  be 
added  at  the  same  time  it  will  be 
a  great  advantage.  The  young 
trees  when  received  from  the 
nursery  are  usually  a  single  twig 
about  15  inches  high.  These  twigs 
should  not  be  cut  back  the  first  year,  but  each  of 
the  new  shoots  made  by  them  the  following  year 
should  be  cut  back  to  half  its  length  in  the 
autumn  or  winter,  in  order  to  induce  the  trees  to 
put  out  more  branches  and  thus  become  good- 
sized  bushes  in  a  short  time.  Future  prunings 
will  consist  in  cutting  the  shoots  of  the  previous 
year's  growth  in  the  same  way,  also  cutting 
away  weak  and  dead  growths.  A  Nut  tree 
should  never  be  allowed  to  become  a  dense  tangle 
of  growth,  or  it  will  bear  scarcely  any  fruit. 

In  pruning  it  is  important  to  prune  so  that 
each  of  the  terminal  growths  of  next  year 
which  emanates  from  the  cut  shoot  shall 
start  from  a  bud  pointing  outwards  and  not 
inwards.  T. 


October  16,  1909. 


THE    GAilbEN. 


507 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


DAFFODIL    EFFECTS. 

THE  water  scene  at  Wolfetou  House, 
Dorchester,  illustrated  below,  gives 
an  excellent  idea  of  the  beautiful 
effect  that  can  be  produced  by  a  bold 
and  well  -  thought  -  out  planting  of 
Daffodils.  It  is  an  old  pear-shaped 
"  pond  "  some  150  yards  long  by  from  4  yards 
to  10  yards  at  the  narrow  end  and  from  14  yards 
to  20  yards  at  the  wider  part.  In  all  probability 
it  dates  from  pre-Reformation  times,  and  is  ene 
of  the  old  fish  ponds  that  have,  fortunately  for 
their  present-day  owners,  escaped  destruction. 
Bacon  in  his  celebrated  essay  contrasted 
"  Fountains  and  Ponds,"  and  thought  the  former 
"a  great  beauty  and  refreshment,"  whereas  the 
latter  "  mar  all  and  make  the  garden  unwhole- 
some and  full  of  flies  and  frogs. "  I  fancy  there 
are  many  who  will  scarcely  agree  with  this 
dictum  of  the  great  essayist,  and  will  put  up 
with  any  number  of  flies  and  frogs  to  have  such 
a  beautiful  spot  in  their  grounds  as  that  which 
Mr.  Albert  Bankes  has  in  his  at  Wolfeton  House. 
It  must  give  him  more  real  pleasure  to  be  able 
to  take  his  friends  along  the  pretty  gravel  walk 
round  his  "pond"  when  its  dainty  necklace  of 
Daffodils  is  all  aglow  than  if  he  had  some  "  high 
or  massy  fountain"  or  "some  pyramid  of 
marble,"  where  he  could  suddenly  turn  on  a 
hidden  tap  and  "  make  the  water  to  play  upon 
the  ladies  and  others  who  are  standing  by  and 
give  them  a  thorough  wetting."  It  must,  how- 
ever, in  fairness  to  Bacon,  be  borne  in  mind 
that  the  latter  half  of  the  sixteenth  century  was 
the  time  when  "water  works  "  had  run  mad,  for, 
doubtless,  even  the  greatest  minds  are  to  a  large 
extent  influenced  by  the  all-prevailing  fashion 
of  the  time  in  their  judgments.  But  to  return 
to  our  pond.  The  Daffodils  are  planted  in  a 
4  feet  grass  border.  A  large  number  of  Crocuses 
have  been  planted  among  them  to  give  an  earlier 
bit  of  colour.  Originally  there  were  only 
yellow  ones ;  but  now  they  are  mixed  with 
white  and  purple  for  succession.  Nothing  is 
done  to  the  border  except  to  mow  the  grass 
about  once  in  the  summer  when  the  leaves  of  the 
bulbs  have  died  down.  Every  year  they 
multipljr  and  improve.  As  Mr.  Bankes  thinks, 
they  evidently  like  the  moisture  of  the  pond. 
Wet  feet  suits  them.  This  may  be  helpful  to 
those  who  have  similar  bits  of  water  which  are 
doing  nothing. 

The  photograph  of  the  "  pond  "  at  Wolfeton 
House  is  one  of  Messrs.  Hills  and  Rowneys  of 
Dorchester,  and  along  with  three  or  four  more  of 
the  same  piece  of  water  is  published  in  the 
Beauty  Spot  of  Dorset  series.     Joseph  Jacob. 


SWEET  PEAS  AT  QKEAT  RYBURGH. 
It  was  my  pleasure  and  privilege  to  be  able  to 
make  a  short  visit  to  Messrs.  Stark  and  Son's 
nurseries  at  Great  Ryburgh  in  August,  and  I 
was  more  than  delighted  with  my  pilgrimage. 
Lovers  of  Sweet  Peas  will  not  need  to  be 
reminded  that  this  firm  has  already  made  itself 
famous  in  the  Sweet  Pea  world  by  distributing 
several  varieties  of  conspicuous  merit,  but  there 
are  better  things  to  come.  George  Stark  and 
George  Stark  Improved  are  magnificent  scarlets, 
and  the  latter  will  be  guaranteed  to  give  superb 
waved  flowers,  while  the  ordinary  form  will  give 
equally  brilliant  colour  with  perhaps  rather 
smaller  size  and  not  the  same  reliability  as  to 
waviness.  Hereward  is  the  best  waved  aerise 
that  I  have  seen  this  year,  and  it  is  certain  that 
it  will  become  immensely  popular  and  com- 
pletely oust  Cocoinea  from  our  gardens.  Mrs. 
Duncan  is  a  glowing  crimson  of  the  largest  size, 
and  the  flowers  are  of  splendid  form.  As  far  as 
I  could  see  it  does  not  burn  in  the  slightest 
degree,  and  will,  therefore,  be  especially  welcome. 
Florence  Wright  is  a  beautiful  white  of  the  finest 
size  and  substance.     It  does  not  belong  to  the 


popular  waved  section,  but  has  large,  solid, 
white,  smooth  standards  that  will  make  it 
supreme  as  a  garden  Sweet  Pea  and  ensure  it  a 
place  on  the  exhibition  board. 

In  addition  to  these  there  are  all  the  leading 
varieties  in  the  Great  Ryburgh  collection,  and  one 
can  safely  assert  that  there  are  no  healthier  or 
better  Sweet  Peas  being  grown  for  seed  in  this 
country  at  the  present  time.  Mr.  Arthur  Stark 
is  the  leading  spirit  among  the  Sweet  Peas,  as, 
indeed,  he  is  in  the  entire  seed  and  nursery 
department  of  a  great  business  of  which  his 
father,  Mr.  George  Stark,  an  old  professional 
gardener,  is  the  head.  Spencer. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


The  Climbing  Monkshood  (Aconitum 

volueile). 

Mr.  Bently,  Ditton  Hill,  Surrey,  sends  flowers 

of  this  interesting  Monkshood  with  the  following 

note:  "Aconitum  volubile  is  a  rare,  handsome 

herbaceous  twining  species,  freely  producing  pale 


fruit  on  them.— S.  Bidwbll,  The  Oardent, 
Broughton  Lodge,  Broughton,  near  Preston, 
Lancashire.  [We  thank  our  correspondent  for 
sending  a  number  of  Almond  fruits  collected  in 
the  district.  There,  however,  appears  to  be 
some  misapprehension  regarding  the  name,  as 
the  tree  is  referred  to  as  Amygdalus  sinensis  ; 
it  is  really  Prunus  Amygdalus,  but  it  is  some- 
times called  Amygdalus  communis.  It  is  a  very 
popular  tree  in  the  vicinity  of  London  and  many 
South  of  England  towns,  but  is  less  frequently  met 
with  in  the  North.  Although  good  crops  of  fruit 
occur  fairly  regularly  in  the  South,  they  are  more 
uncommon  further  North.  Efforts  have  been 
made  to  popularise  the  tree  for  planting  in 
orchards  in  the  Southern  Counties  for  the  sake  of 
its  fruit,  but  hitherto  with  no  success,  as  people 
are  afraid  that  the  venture  would  not  pay,  as  the 
fruits  can  be  imported  so  cheaply.  It  is,  how- 
ever, rather  strange  that  those  who  grow  the 
tree  for  its  ornamental  attributes  do  not  make 
some  use  of  the  kernels,  for  the  majority  of 
cultivated  trees  bear  sweeb  fruits.  The  reason 
for  them  not  being  used  may  be  that  people  are 
afraid  of  them  being  the  unwholesome  variety. 


DAFFODILS   BY   PONDSIDE   AT   WOLFETON   HOUSE,    DORCHESTER. 


blue  flowers  in  September  and  October.  It  is 
quite  distinct  from  any  other  Monkshood,  the 
growth  coiling  around  a  stake  similar  to  a 
common  Hop  or  Polygonum  baldschuanioum.  It 
is  of  easy  culture,  growing  well  in  ordinary 
garden  soil  enriched  with  manure,  and  is  best 
planted  in  late  autumn  or  early  spring.  It  is  a 
/ery  good  subject  for  poles,  pergolas,  &c. ;  height, 
10  feet.  The  specimens  sent  are  from  plants  grow- 
ing in  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons'  Nurseries,  Surbiton. " 

Almond  Fruits. 
Having  an  invitation  to  visit  a  friend's  garden 
and  seeing  all  I  could  of  interest,  I  oame  across  the 
Almond,  or  Amygdalus  sinensis,  in  fruit,  which  a 
short  time  ago  caused  a  lot  of  discussion  in  your 
valuable  paper.  The  Garden.  Being  a  great  reader 
of  the  same,  I  thought  I  would  take  the  liberty  of 
sending  you  a  branch  for  your  table,  which  the 
gardener  was  good  enough  to  give  me.  I  may 
state  that  the  tree  is  about  13  feet  high  and  well 
sheltered  by  other  trees  and  shrubs  ;  there  is  a 
fine  crop  of  Nuts  on  the  tree  this  year.  The 
gardener  tells  me  it  fruits  every  year  ;  the  tree 
is  growing  close  to  the  town.  I  may  also  state 
that  we  have  some  fine  trees  of  the  Almonds  in 
our  parks  at  Preston,  but  I  have  not  seen  any 


and  there  is  really  no  way  of  telling  the  trees 
and  Nuts  apart  except  by  the  taste  ;  the  whole- 
some ones  are  sweet  and  the  others  bitter. 
Children  appear  to  suffer  no  qualms  on  this 
point,  for  any  Almond  seems  to  be  considered  quite 
good  plunder.  The  decorative  qualities  of  the 
Almond,  however,  make  it  one  of  the  most 
useful  of  all  flowering  trees.  Large  trees  40  feet 
high,  with  trunks  upwards  of  1  foot  in  diameter, 
are  sometimes  met  with,  but  more  frequentW 
they  are  found  about  half  that  height.  It 
rarely  happens  that  they  do  not  blossom  well, 
while  about  one  year  in  three  an  enormous 
quantity  of  flowers  are  produced.  There  are 
many  varieties,  the  chief  differences  being 
noticeable  in  the  size  and  oolour  of  the  flowers 
and  in  the  fruits. — Ed.] 


SwBET  Peas  from  Cumberland. 
Mr.  H.  Eallem,  The  Gardens,  Newton  Manor, 
Gosforth,  Cumberland,  sends  a  few  varieties  of 
Sweet  Peas,  viz..  Queen  Alexandra,  Paradise, 
Earl  Cromer,  Helen  Lewis,  Henry  Eokford,  Helen 
Pierce,  Lady  Grisel  Hamilton,  Primrose  Spencer, 
Mrs.  Walter  Wright,  White  Spencer  and  Queen 
of  Spain.     The  flowers  were  exceptionally  fine. 


^08 


TttiE     GARDEN. 


(October  16,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 

WEEKLY   WOEK    AND    THE    FLAG    IRISES. 


GARDEN    WORK     WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— In  many  flower 
gardens  herbaceous  borders  have  been 
formed  during  the  past  few  years, 
and  very  charming  indeed  they  are. 
I  know  of  one  garden  owned  by  a 
very  rich  gentleman ;  but  there  are 
no  elaborate  designs  of  flower-beds  filled  with 
formal  lines  and  groups  of  Zonal  Pelargoniums, 
Calceolarias  and  other  similar  kinds  of  summer 
bedding-out  plants.  Manj-  of  the  usual  kinds  of 
summer- flowering  subjects  are  there  looking 
quite  in  place  every  year,  but  the  real  charm  of 
the  garden  lies  in  other  subjects  ;  for  example, 
in  one  part  there  are  long  borders  filled  with 
old-fashioned  flowers,  such  as  border  Carnations, 
Pinks,  Lavender  (huge  bushes  of  the  latter), 
Mignonette,  Phlox,  &o.  Then  theie  are  beds 
filled  with  miniature  and  Moss  Roses,  others 
with  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  and  still  more  with 
Hybrid  Teas.  All  these  borders  have  as  a  back- 
ground flowering  and  ornamental-leaved  shrubs. 
Now,  I  would  like  to  say  that  this  garden  is  not 
an  old  one  ;  no,  it  is  only  a  few  years  old,  but 
it  looks  like  an  old  garden  already,  and  it 
possesses  a  never-ending  charm.  Thousands  of 
readers  of  The  Gaeden  who  contemplate  some 
alterations  in  their  gardens,  so  as  to  add  new 
features,  may  take  a  hint  from  the  foregoing 
reference  to  this  rich  man's  garden,  which  is, 
in  reality,  a  huge  cottage  garden.  Where  new 
herbaceous  borders  are  to  be  formed,  the  ground 
must  now  be  deeply  trenched  and  enriched  with 
manure  if  it  is  poor.     Continue  to  plant  bulbs. 

Vegetable  Garden. — Mushroom-beds  must  be 
made  up  without  any  delay  now.  Collect  the 
manure  from  the  stables  every  morning  and 
spread  it  out  thinly  on  the  floor  of  an  open  shed, 
so  that  the  rank  gases  can  readily  escape  and  to 
prevent  burning  while  waiting  to  collect  a 
sufficient  quantity.  It  is  not  advisable  to 
remove  all  the  straw  from  the  manure  ;   all  the 


I. — SECTION     01      AN      OVBRGBOWK     CL0MP 
THE  GERMAN   OB   FLAG   IRIS. 


short  straw  may  be  left  in,  and  tree  leaves  may 
also  be  mixed  with  the  manure  when  forming 
the  hot-bed  with  much  advantage.  The  manure 
must  be  turned  over  every  morning  when  fresh 
is  added  to  it,  and  twenty-four  hours  before 
making  up  the  bed  throw  up  the  whole  of  the 
manure  into  a  conical-shaped  heap.  At  the  end 
of  the  twenty-four  hours  spread  out  the  manure 
again,  when  all  the  rank  gas  will  at  once  escape 
and  the  material  will  be  sweetened.  The  cater- 
pillars have  quite  ruined  the  Broccoli,  Savoys  and 
Brussels  Sprouts  in  many  town  and  suburban 
gardens.  The  work  of  destruction  has  been 
much  more  complete  in  the  gardens  in  question 
than  in  those  in  country  districts.  Where  the 
caterpillars  have  commenced  to  eat  away  the 
leaves,  I  advise  inexperienced  cultivators  to 
hand-pick  them.  Where  the  pests  are  too 
numerous  for  this  to  be  efifectual,  shake  the 
plants  violently  and  so  dislodge  the  pests,  and 
then  scatter  dry  lime  on  them  under  the  plants. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  Japanese  Wineberry  is  a 
very  free-fruiting  plant,  grows  rapidly  and  is 
extremely  ornamental  grown  on  pillars,  pergolas 
or  arches.  The  old  fruiting  canes  must  be  out 
out,  and  also  those  of  the  Loganberry,  just  as  are 
the  canes  of  Raspberry  plants.  Weakly  shoots 
of  the  current  year's  growth  must  also  be 
removed ;  but  as  the  annual  growths  are  much 
stronger  than  those  of  the  Raspberry,  more  space 
must  be  left  for  the  retained  canes  to  develop  in. 
Kentish  Cob  Nuts  and  Filberts  should  be  care- 
fully harvested  if  the  work  has  not  already  been 
done.  Many  fallen  Nuts  will  be  found  among 
the  leaves  on  the  ground  under  the  trees,  and  all 
must  be  gathered  and  stored  when  properly  dried. 

Oreenhmiae  and  Frames. — Plants  of  Libonia 
floribunda  should  be  given  the  lightest  position 
in  the  greenhouse,  so  as  to  cause  a  rich  colouring 
in  the  flowers.  Judicious  feeding  with  weak 
doses  of  clear  liquid  manure,  and  soot-water 
given  alternately  with  clear  waterings  twice  each 
week,  will  prove  very  beneficial.  Solanums 
bearing  berries  may  be  treated  in  a  similar  way. 
Plants  recently  placed  under  glass  should  be 
examined  and  all  fading  leaves  removed.  There 
is  more  moisture  in  frames  at  this  season, 
naturally,  than  in  summer-time,  so  that  it  would 
be  of  some  advantage  to  put  boards  on  inverted 
empty  flower-pots  to  form  a  dry  stage  for  the  plants 
now  growing  in  the  frames.  Mignonette  in  pots 
may  be  transferred  to  shelves  in  the  greenhouse, 
in  which  position  the  plants  usually  do  well  in 
the  depth  of  winter.  B. 

INCREASING    THE    FLAG    IRISES. 

The  Flag  or  German  Irises  are  so  well  known  to 
all  who  \  alue  a  hardy  flower  garden  that  they 
have  come  to  be  regarded  as  quite  indispensable 
where  pretty  floral  pictures  are  desired  in  the 
early  summer.  It  is  a  matter  for  regret  that  the 
German  Irises,  which  are  better  known  to  the 
botanists  under  the  name  of  Iris  germanica,  are 
not  more  frequently  seen  in  the  better  positions 
of  our  gardens.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  the 
plants  will  thrive  almost  anyTvhere  and  in  almost 
any  position.  At  one  time  it  used  to  be  said 
that  this  subject  was  more  especially  adapted  for 
forming  groups  at  the  edge  of  a  small  stream  or 
lake  :  but  this  is  narrowing  down  their  uses  to 
an  unjust  degree.  Their  uses  are  endless. 
The3'  make  a  pretty  picture  when  grouped  in 
beds  or  borders  and  on  the  margins  of  shrub- 
berries,  and  as  a  plant  for  the  town  garden  they 
are  unsurpassed. 

The  Flag  Irises  should  be  planted  either  in 
October  or  Haroh,  whiehever  period  is  the  more 


2. — PORTION  OF  A  DIVIDED  ROOT  SHOWING 
TWO  GROWTHS  THAT  MAY  BE  DIVIDED 
AGAIN   AND   THUS   MAKE  TWO  PLANTS. 

convenient.  There  are  growers  who  have  pre- 
judices one  way  or  the  other  ;  but  if  quarters 
of  a  suitable  kind  are  available  I  would  nob 
hesitate  to  plant  in  either  season.  An  important 
point  to  remember  is  to  plant  in  nice  mellow 
soil  that  was  manured  in  the  previous  season. 
On  no  account  use  manure  of  a  fresh  kind  when 
planting,  as  this  is  against  the  best  interests  of 
these  plants  and  may  lead  to  failure.  Any 
ordinary  garden  soil  will  suit  them  ;  but  where 
special  pains  are  taken  to  give  them  more 
than  ordinary  attention  in  this  respect,  the 
results  will  fully  justify  the  extra  care  taken  for 
ensuring  their  well-being. 

Plants  left  undisturbed  for  a  few  years  develop 
into  huge  pieces,  so  that  a  duty  is  imposed  upon 
the  grower  of  lifting  and  replanting  them  every 
few  years.  An  interval  of  not  more  than  three 
or  four  years  should  be  observed  in  lifting  and 
replanting,  and  by  these  means  the  plants  may 
be  maintained  in  good  form  and  the  different 
varieties  increased  quite  easily. 

This  may  be  done  either  in  autumn  or  the 
spring.  We  are,  therefore,  in  a  position  at  the 
present  time  to  deal  with  plants  needing  division, 
and  beginners  who  have  a  few  over-large  clumps 
in  their  gardens  may  proceed  forthwith  to  lift 
and  divide  them.  It  is  not  by  any  means  a 
difficult  process  ;  and  to  assist  those  who  know 
little  how  to  proceed,  a  portion  of  an  overgrown 
clump  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  Note  the  knotted 
character  of  the  rhi°omatous  roots,  which  seem 
to  indicate,  in  no  uncertain  fashion,  their  need 
for  more  room.  While  the  plants  would  con- 
tinue to  grow  and  flower  in  this  crowded 
condition  of  their  roots,  they  would  do  far 
better  whan  lifted  and  divided.  The  roots 
divide  with  the  greatest  ease,  and  may  be  pulled 
apart  into  sections  such  as  are  represented  in 
Fig.  2.  Here,  it  will  be  observed,  there  are  two 
growths  that  it  would  be  unwise  to  plant  just  as 
they  are  represented  ;  they  will  bear  dividing 
again,  thus  making  two  pieces  of  this  one  portion. 


I 


October  16,  l909.| 


THE    GARDEN. 


509 


To  enable  the  beginner  to  appreciate  the  varied 
character  of  the  rhizomes  (divided  roots),  there 
are  portrayed  in  Fig.  3  three  distinctly  different 
pieces,  showing  the  curious  formation  of  the 
rhizomatous  roots. 

Before  commencing  to  plant  the  divided  pieces, 
group  those  of  a  size  together  ;  this  is  better,  as 
more  even  clumps  will  develop  when  pieces  of 
even  sizes  are  planted  together.     The  divided 

Sieces  should  be  planted  where  they  are  to 
ower,  but  care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the 
rhizomes  or  root-stalks  as  near  the  surface  as 
possible.  Deep'planting  must  be  avoided,  as  the 
Flag  Iris  is  a  surface-rooting  plant.  I  prefer  to 
plant  in  small  clumps  or  colonies  in  the  hardy 
border,  observing  the  rule  to  plant  as  indicated 
in  Fig.  4.  Here,  it  will  be  observed,  ample 
space  is  left  for  future  development,  so  that  a 
mass  of  blossoms  and  a  grand  clump  are  ensured 
for  a  few  years.  T>.  B.  C. 


LIFTING    AND    STORING     BEETROOT. 

BiiiiTBOOT  must  not  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
beds  to  get  frozen ;  but  it  is  unwise  to  lift  and  store 
it  too  soon.  All  the  roots  must  be  so  treated  that 
they  will  retain  their  juices.  Violent  pulling  of 
the  roots  from  the  soil  must  be  avoided.  When 
this  is  done  the  tops  are  unduly  bruised  and  the 
roots  are  scratched  ;  thus  bleeding  occurs  and 
loss  of  colour.  I  prefer  to  store  Beetroot  in 
sand ;  it  closes  tightly  upon  the  roots  and 
excludes  air  ;  the  sand  remains  cool  and  does  not 
heat,  neither  does  it  contaminate  the  roots.  The 
latter  should  be  lifted  by  means  of  a  strong 
garden  fork,  with  which  the  soil  should  be 
removed  from  the  roots.  Twist  off  the  tops 
3  inches  above  the  crown.  If  out,  the  sap-vessels 
are  left  open  and  bleeding  may  be  excessive. 
Pack  the  roots  in  layers  in  sand  in  a  cool  shed  ; 
have  the  tops  and  the  crowns  just  free  of  the 
sand.  The  heaps  may  be  long  and  narrow, 
tapering  to  a  point  from  a  3  feet  wide  base,  or 
pyramid-shaped.  If  severe  frosts  occur,  cover 
the  heaps  with  mats  or  straw.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  grade  the  Beetroot — that  is,  to  place  the 
small  ones  in  one  heap,  the  medium  in  another, 
and  the  largest  by  themselves  ;  then  when 
required  they  can  be  used  accordingly. 


HOW    TO    MANAGE    STOVE    PLANTS. 

When  an  inexperienced  person  takes  charge  of 
a  number  of  stove  plants  at  this  time  ot  the  year 
he  is  undertaking  a  big  responsibility.  These 
plants  require  very  careful  treatment  throughout 
the  winter  months.  We  will  suppose  that  the 
plants,  of  which  Crotons  and  Draosenas  are  good 
examples,  possess  handsome,  healthy  leaves. 
Now  if  the  temperature  be  allowed  to  get  very 


low,  if  too  much  ventilation  be  given  in  cold 
weather,  if  too  much  cold  water  be  applied  to 
the  roots,  and  frequent  syringings  in  cold  weather 
are  practised,  many  basal  leaves  will  actually 
fall  off  the  plants,  and  others  will  assume  a 
yellow,  sickly  appearance.  Of  course,  in  order 
to  manage  the  plants  successfully  these  mistakes 
must  be  avoided.  I  will  here  give  a  few  brief 
hints  in  the  matter,  which  will  prove  very 
helpful. 

In  the  first  place,  the  temperature,  from  fire- 
heat,  must  be  kept  at  from  60°  to  75°  during 
the  daytime.  If  the  weather  is  very  cold,  a 
temperature  just  above  60°  will  be  most  suitable ; 
if  the  weather  is  somewhat  warmer,  then  the 
maximum  temperature  from  fire-heat  must  be 
maintained.  The  rule  should  be  not  to  force  the 
plants  much  in  cold  weather.  The  night  tem- 
perature should  range  from  58°  to  65°.  Ventila- 
tion during  cold,  dull  weather  would  prove  very 
harmful  to  the  plants.  If  the  sun  shines 
brightly  and  the  temperature  outside  is  high  for 
the  season,  the  top  lights  may  be  opened  about 
1  inch,  or  at  the  most  2  inches,  between  the 
hours  of  10  o'clock  and  noon.  In  rather  warm 
weather  a  midday  damping  of  the  stages  and 
the  floor  of  the  house  would  be  beneficial ;  but 
on  ordinary  days  one  damping  of  the  floor  at 
9  o'clock  in  the  morning  will  be  sufficient.  All 
water  must  be  of  the  same  temperature  as  that 
of  the  house,  and  the  watering  necessary  must 
be  done  early  in  the  forenoon.  Liquid  manure 
and  artificials  should  not  be  applied  at  this 
season  by  the  beginner  ;  clear  water  only  is  the 
safest.  Shamrock. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


-THREE   DISTINCTLY  DIIIERENT   DIVIDED  RHIZOMES    OB    ROOT- 
STALKS,   SHOWING   THEIR  VARIED  CHARACTER, 


Some  persona  do  not  like  to  see  the  autumn 
approaching  in  the  garden,  as  they  regard  it  as 
the  end  of  all  flowers.  A  fine  old  amateur 
gardener  once  remarked  to  me,  ' '  I  always  feel 
depressed  when  the  summer  flowers  have  all 
gone."  Now,  I  am  quite  sure  that  there  are 
thousands  of  amateur  gardeners  who  feel  the 
same.  Personally,  I  like  the  autumn-time, 
though  I  feel  regret  at  the  passing  of  so  many 
lovely  flowers  ;  but  I  try  to  take  a  new  interest 
in  the  garden.  Even  a  bare  patch  of  soil  interests 
me.  In  my  mind's  eye  I  see  that  patch  covered 
with  beautiful  spring-flowering  plants,  and  at 
once  set  about  the  work  necessary  to  that  desir- 
able end.  I  like  to  make  improvements  in 
various  ways.  These  cannot  be  done  all  at  once  ; 
time  is  required  ;  and  so  I  welcome  that  period 
which  will  enable  me  to  prepare  for  those 
necessary  improvements.  I  take  much  pleasure 
in  carrying  out  the  details  of  the  work  as  well 
as  in  the  actual  fruition.  It 
is  a  pleasure  to  look  forward 
to  a  treat  in  store  ;  and  I  am 
very  sure  that  it  is  this  look- 
ing forward  with  pleasant 
anticipations  that  constitutes 
a  lot  of  the  interest  that  we, 
as  gardeners,  take  in  horticul- 
ture generally.  I  am  also  sure 
that  I  am  not  alone  in  looking 
at  things  connected  with  the 
garden  in  this  light.  There 
are  thousands  of  readers  of 
The  Garden  who  view 
matters  in  exactly  the  same 
light.  It  is  very  nice  indeed 
to  have  the  charming  flowers 
of  summer  near  us,  and  it  is, 
no  doubt,  good  for  us  that  we 
can  only  enjoy  them  during 
one  season  out  of  the  four. 
If  we  always  had  summer  and 
its  flowers,  we  should,  very 
probably,  tire  of  it  all ;  but 
we  are  rich  in  having  three 
other  seasons,  eaeh  with  its 
special     featnres,    and     this 


4. — HOW  THE  DIVIDED  PORTIONS  SHOULD  BR 
PLANTED.  NOTE  THAT  THEY  ARE  PLACED 
WELL  APART. 

constant  change  keeps  alive  our  interest  and 
love  of  the  garden. 

I  am  sure  that  there  are  many  readers  who  are 
now  contemplating  making  a  new  start  in  the 
gardening  line  imbued  with  the  idea  that  they 
will  succeed  next  year  where  they  failed  this. 
A  spirit  of  this  kind  leads  to  success. 

The  Greenhoosb.— The  garden  may  not  be 
large,  but  it  may  contain  many  features  of 
interest.  At  the  present  time  the  greenhouse  in 
it  will  claim  a  lot  of  attention.  I  have  seen 
many  small  greenhouses,  practically  empty  during 
the  summer  months,  unduly  filled  in  the  autumn. 
It  is  a  wrench  to  part  with  our  favourite  plants, 
but  if  we  overcroyvd  them  in  the  greenhouse  in 
winter-time  we  run  a  grave  risk  of  losing  some  of 
them  and  crippling  others.  I  would  not  hesitate 
to  sacrifice  some  of  the  space  in  the  path  and  devote 
it  to  the  accommodation  of  the  plants  rather 
than  overcrowd  the  latter.  Furthermore,  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  fix  a  few  extra  shelves  and  to 
extend  the  stages  temporarily  with  the  same 
object  in  view.  While  it  is  too  wet  to  do  work 
outside,  the  work  of  cleaning  plants  and  suit- 
ably arranging  them  in  the  greenhouse  may  be 
proceeded  with.  Then  there  are  bulba  to  pot 
for  succession,  batches  of  flowers  both  for  the 
embellishment  of  the  greenhouse  and  the 
dwelling-bouse. 

Climbers. — The  season  has  now  como  when  it 
is  advisable  to  plant  permanent  climbers  to  cover 
walls,  fences,  arbours,  trellises  and  pergolas.  In 
each  case  a  good  choice  should  be  made,  so  that 
there  will  be  no  need  to  replace  the  plants 
at  the  end  of  another  year  on  account  of  their 
unsuitability  to  the  position.  Rapid-growing 
climbers,  such  as  Bridgesia  spioata  (which  is  a 
capital  plant  for  covering  a  north  wall  in  the 
place  of  Ivy),  must  have  ample  space  to  grow  in. 
Very  often  the  mistake  of  too  close  planting  is 
made,  and  the  result  is  seen  afterwards  in  the 
entanglement  of  the  branches  of  different  kinds. 
A  wall  with  a  south  or  south-west  aspect  may 
be  made  to  look  very  charming  if  a  collection  of 
flowering  plants  are  trained  on  it.  Clematises, 
Honeysuckles,  Wistarias,  Roses  and  similar 
subjects  are  always  interesting,  and  walls 
covered  with  them  give  an  added  interest  to  the 
whole  garden.  Always  put  in  some  good  loam 
for  the  plants  to  root  in,  and  make  the  soil  firm 
around  their  roots.  It  is  advisable  to  get  as 
much  variety  as  possible  amongst  the  climbers, 
and  not  place  one's  whole  faith  in  the  Virginian 
Creeper  or  Ivy.  Avon, 


510 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  16,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR  THE  SOUTH  AND  SOUTH 

MIDLANDS. 

Flowbb     Gasden. 

FLOWER-BEDS.— Owing  to  the  long 
spells  of  damp  and  almost  sunless 
weather,  flower-beds  in  some  parts 
will  not  be  so  bright  and  gay  as  they 
have  been  in  some  seasons  during  the 
early  part  of  October.  Constant 
attention  is  necessary  to  make  the  best  of 
matters  by  keeping  the  injured  flowers  and 
leaves  removed,  so  as  to  give  as  good  an  eflect  as 
possible  till  they  are  out  o£f  by  frost,  &c.  At 
the  same  time  valuable  and  tender  plants  should 
be  lifted  and  potted  before  they  are  injured. 
It  is  not  safe  after  this  date  to  allow  them  to 
remain  in  the  beds. 

Heliotropes  and  Fuchsias. — If  these  are  taken 
up  and  potted  (after  they  have  recovered  from 
the  shift),  they  may  be  wintered  in  a  moderate 
temperature.  The  latter  under  stages  free  from 
drip  will  keep  very  well  till  spring. 

Bulbs. — Keep  on  with  the  planting  of  these, 
so  that  they  may  get  well  rooted  before  the 
ground  becomes  too  cold.  Attend  to  staking 
and  keeping  tidy  all  kinds  of  Asters  and  other 
late-flowering  plants,  the  flowers  of  which  will 
prove  exceptionally  useful  where  large  quantitiw 
are  required.  As  soon  as  the  beds  are  cleared  of 
summer  occupants,  lose  no  time  in  preparing 
them  and  planting  with  Wallflowers,  Poly- 
anthuses, Forget-me-nots,  Alyssums,  Aubrietias, 
bulbs,  Pansies,  &c.  If  a  little  manure  is  dug  in 
with  a  dressing  of  soot  at  this  season,  for  many 
plants  next  summer  very  little  further  prepara- 
tion will  be  necessary.  Large  shrubs  and  trees 
may  now  be  removed  and  planted  again  at  once 
if  so  desired,  and  with  every  success  when  done 
properly  ;  but  in  all  oases  of  early  transplanting, 
care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  foliage  moist  in 
dry  weather,  especially  large  specimens. 
Fruit  Garden. 
Gathering  Fruit. — Attend  to  the  gathering  of 
late  Plums.  Coe's  Golden  Drop,  one  of  the  best 
for  dessert,  should  be  gathered  when  perfectly 
dry  and  taken  to  an  airy  fruit-room,  where  they 
will  keep  sound  and  fresh  for  several  days. 
Keep  on  gathering  all  midseason  Apples  and 
Pears,  but  very  late  sorts  should  be  left  on  the 
trees  till  the  last.  Such  fruits  will  keep  much 
better  than  if  gathered  a  trifle  too  soon. 
Veoetablb  Garden. 
Carrots. — These  should  now  be  lifted  and 
stored  for  the  winter,  also  the  more  forward 
Turnips.  I  know  of  no  better  way  than  by 
taking  up  the  roots,  leaving  the  tops  on  and 
placing  them  side  by  side  in  trenches  in  some 
out-of-the-way  place  in  the  garden,  where  during 
severe  weather  they  can  be  lightly  protected 
with  a  little  strawy  litter.  In  this  way  they 
take  up  but  little  room  and  keep  sweet  and 
crisp  till  late  in  spring. 

Stakale. — Remove  the  greater  part  of  the 
foliage  and  gradually  expose  the  crowns  to  more 
light  to  give  them  a  better  chance  to  ripen.  For 
early  forcing  a  portion  of  the  most  forward 
crowns  may  be  taken  up  and  laid  in  coal-ashes 
till  they  are  wanted.  Collect  all  horse-manure 
possible  for  making  up  beds  for  Mushrooms  ;  it 
is  essential  to  get  together  as  quickly  as  possible 
enough  to  form  one  bed,  and  this  should  be 
repeatedly  turned  until  the  rank  heat  has 
declined.  In  making  beds  the  manure  should  be 
sweet  and  rammed  very  firm  indeed.  Spawn  the 
bed  when  the  heat  has  declined  to  85"  and  case 
with  2  inches  of  good  loam  made  firm  with  the  back 
of  a  bright  spade.  With  a  temperature  ranging 
from  55°  to  60°  Mushrooms  ought  to  appear  in 
six  to  eight  weeks.  H.  Mabkham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 
Wrotham  Park  Oarieru,  Bamit. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

CONSEE  VATORY. 

Beds  and  Borders  forming  the  rooting  medium 
of  various  climbing  plants  will  require  copious 
supplies  of  water  once  a  week  while  the  weather 
keeps  warm  and  bright  and  growth  and  flowers 
continue.  Camellias,  whether  planted  out  or  in 
pots  or  tubs,  will  benefit  by  receiving  weak 
applications  of  liquid  manure  occasionally,  and 
at  no  time  should  the  roots  feel  the  want  of 
water,  or  dropping  of  the  buds  will  follow. 
Roof  climbers  that  are  past  flowering  may  have 
a  portion  of  the  season's  growth  cut  away,  doing 
this  by  clearing  off  weakly  shoots  or  others  that 
are  old  and  consequently  past  their  best,  and 
leaving  those  selected  to  form  the  future  plant 
as  much  as  possible  in  accordance  with  its 
natural  style  of  growth. 

/7i8ec<«— Should  these  have  obtained  a  footing, 
clear  them  out  at  once.  Aphides  are  easily  got 
rid  of  by  vaporising,  but  scale  and  mealy  bug 
give  more  trouble,  according  to  the  plants  which 
they  have  attacked.  Camellias,  Oranges  and 
many  others  with  stout  foliage  may  be  drenched 
with  a  concoction  comprising  a  wineglassful  of 
paraffin  to  a  gallon  of  soft  water,  taking  care  to 
keep  this  stirred  while  in  use.  More  tender- 
leaved  plants  are  best  treated  with  one  of  the 
many  insecticides  now  advertised  for  the  purpose. 
Where  possible,  turn  the  plant  while  being 
cleaned  upon  its  side,  so  that  the  liquid  is  kept 
from  the  roots,  or  in  the  case  of  those  planted 
out  a  sheet  of  canvas  or  other  contrivance  will 
answer  as  well. 

Fruit  Houses. 
Storing  Plants.— Where  not  already  done,  pre- 
parations must  now  be  made  for  accommodating 
the  several  species  of  plants.  Chrysanthemums 
in  particular,  that  passed  the  summer  in  the  open 
air.  In  the  great  majority  of  gardens  this  must 
be  done  in  fruit  houses  whence  the  crops  have 
been  gathered.  No  objection  to  this  course 
can  be  advanced  providing  due  consideration  is 
given  to  the  trees  ;  but  to  divest  these  of  large 
quantities  of  wood  and  foliage  while  yet  in 
vigorous  growth,  for  the  purpose  of  admitting 
the  necessary  light  for  the  well-being  of  the 
plants  beneath,  is  injurious. 

Vines. — Reduce  the  laterals  in  length,  but 
from  four  to  six  fully  developed  leaves  should 
be  left  on  each,  and  the  borders,  if  dry,  be 
moderately  watered.  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
may  have  much  of  the  older  wood  and  all 
surplus  shoots  pruned  away,  after  which  any 
shoots  of  the  current  year  that  are  required  to 
properly  furnish  the  trees  should  be  lightly  tied 
in  place.  When  finished  an  even  spread  of 
foliage  all  over  the  trellis  should  be  presented, 
and  on  no  account  should  this  be  forcibly  removed 
by  a  Birch  broom  or  otherwise.  Water  applied 
to  the  roots  and  heavy  syringing  overhead  will 
tend  to  the  well-being  of  the  trees  and  assist  in 
the  ripening  and  development  of  the  buds  for 
next  year's  crop.  Boards,  if  at  hand,  should  be 
laid  upon  the  borders  to  receive  the  plants,  and 
the  same  used  as  pathways  to  avoid  damage 
being  done  to  the  roots  near  the  surface. 

Orchard  Houses.— Trees  in  pots,  the  fruit  of 
which  will  now  be  past,  may  be  removed  to  the 
open  air,  thus  providing  considerable  space. 
Chrysanthemums  intended  for  late  flowering  may 
remain  outside  for  some  time  longer,  some  means 
being  at  hand  to  protect  them  from  sudden  frost. 
Salvias,  Gallas,  Eupatoriums,  Solanums  and 
Bouvardias  should  all  be  cleaned  and  placed 
under  protection,  forwarding  or  retarding  some 
portions  of  each  as  wanted  lor  display  of  bloom 
or  berry. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Endive,  fully  grown,  may  be  lifted  when  dry 
and  be  planted  in  frames  or  fruit  houses. 
Jambs  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharm.) 
Qmlloway  House,  Oarliesl»n,  Wigtotat»hire, 


NEW     PLANTS. 

Pentstbmon  Myddleton  Gem. — A  pretty  and 
graceful  companion  to  those  known  as  Newbury 
Gem  and  Southgate  Gem  respectively.  The 
plant  is  about  2|  feet  high,  very  floriferous, 
coloured  a  carmine  rose  shade  externally 
and  with  pure  white  throat,  edged  with  car- 
mine at  the  outer  edge  of  the  tube.  From 
Messrs  Wallace  and  Co.,  Colchester.  Award 
of  merit. 

Carnation  O.  P.  Basset. — This  may  be  best 
described  as  a  counterpart  of  Robert  Craig  in 
form,  yet  neither  so  large  nor  so  well  coloured  as 
that  variety.  It  is  reddish  scarlet  in  colour, 
and  belongs  to  the  perpetual-flowering  class. 
From  Mr.  A.  F.  Button,  Iver,  Bucks.  Award 
of  merit. 

Rose  Flower  of  Fairfield. — A  further  addition 
to  the  rambler  class,  the  flowers  being  coloured 
a  reddish  crimson  and  abundantly  produced. 
From  Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield. 
Award  of  merit. 

Vitia  Wilaonce. — A  very  handsome  and  distinct 
new  species  of  ornamental  Vine  from  Western 
China  with  obovate,  acutely  pointed,  somewhat 
shining  leaves  about  midway  in  size  between  V. 
armata  and  V.  flexuosa.  From  Messrs.  James 
Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea.  Award  of 
merit. 

Dahlia  Lancer.  —  A  garden  Cactus  variety 
having  medium-sized  flowers  of  a  rich  and  good 
scarlet  shade.  From  Mr.  H.  Shoesmith,  Woking. 
Award  of  merit. 

Dahlia  Goldcrest.-A  very  fine  show  or  ex- 
hibition Cactus,  the  florets  narrow  and  gracefully 
incurving,  and  coloured  orange  scarlet,  with 
yellow  base.  A  distinct  and  beautiful  variety. 
From  Messrs.  Stredwiek  and  Son,  St.  Leonards. 
Award  of  merit. 

Dahlia  Quimbo. — A  shapely  Cactus  variety, 
coloured  a  crimson  maroon  shade,  the  narrow, 
well-incurving  florets  being  faintly  touched  with 
white  at  the  tips.  From  Messrs.  Stredwiek. 
Award  of  merit. 

Dahlia  Little  Donald  (Pompon).— A  flower  of 
model  character    and    deep   crimson   colouring. 
From    Mr.    S.     Mortimer,     Farnham,     Surrey.. 
Award  of  merit. 

The  above-named  Dahlias  were  adjudicated 
upon  by  a  joint  committee  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  and  National  Dahlia  Society, 
and,  therefore,  carry  the  award  of  merit  of 
the  former  and  the  first-class  certificate  of  the 
latter. 

Caltleya  x  Basil  (C.  Enid  x  C.  Mantinii).— A 
very  handsome  form  with  large,  rosy-hued  petals 
and  sepals,  the  well-developed  lip  of  amaranth 
and  velvet  being  marked  with  golden  blotches  in 
the  front. 

Cattleya  Mrs.  Pitt  var.  superba  (C.  Harrison* 
X  G.  aurea). — A  sweetly  scented  flower  of  ex- 
cellent texture,  the  sepals  of  a  rosy  magenta 
hue,  the  lip  yellow,  edged  with  rosy  lilac. 
These  came  from  Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co. , 
and  each  received  an  award  of  merit. 

Cattleya  x  Rhoda  var.  conspicua  (C.  Iris  x  C. 
hardyana).  —  A  very  handsome  and  telling 
novelty.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  of  a  creamy 
tone  and  slightly  undulated.  The  lip,  which  is 
coloured  a  rosy  magenta,  has  golden  markings  in 
the  front.  From  Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co. , 
Enfield.     Award  of  merit. 

Lalio-Cattleja  Pizzaro  Holford's  variety  (L. 
jongheana  x  C.  iurea).— A  very  beautiful  and 
handsome  form,  the  sepals  and  petals  spreading 
and  of  a  rose  magenta  colour,  shaded  with  rosy 
purple.  The  lip  is  of  fine  proportions,  bold, 
richly  coloured  old  gold  and  bronze,  and  shaded 
mahogany.  The  marginal  lobes  of  the  lip  are 
heavily  tasselled,  or  crested,  and,  coloured  a 
crimson  purple,  render  the  variety  one  of  the 
most  fascinating  and  attractive  we  have  seen. 
Exhibited  by  Lieutenant  -  Colonel  Holford, 
CV.O.,  CLE.,  Westonbirt,  Glouoestershire 
(gardener,  Mr.  H.  Q.  Alexander).  First-claBS 
pertificate. 


October  16,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


511 


NEW  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES. 

Runner  Bean  White  Emperor.  — This  remarkably 
handsome  variety  of  the  White  Datoh  type  of 
Raaner  Bean  has  pods  nearly  1  foot  in  length, 
straight  and  fleshy  withal.  At  the  recent  trial 
at  Wisley  this  was  proved  to  be  the  best  of  this 
section.  Exhibited  by  Mr.  E.  Beckett,  Elstree. 
Award  of  merit. 

Strawberry  Atkins's  Continuity. — The  fruits 
are  of  good  size  and  of  a  rich  scarlet  colour  in  a 
variety  that  promises  well  for  late  autumn 
fruiting.  From  Mr.  J.  Atkins,  Croydon  Road, 
Beckenham.     Award  of  merit. 

Apple  St.  Everard.  — A  novelty  of  great  merit 
having  for  its  parents  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  and 
Margil,  two  of  the  best-flavoured  Apples  extant. 
The  newcomer  is  typical  of  a  moderately  large 
Cox's,  both  in  size  and  general  appearance,  while 
the  fruits  on  reaching  maturity  assume  that 
ruddy  glow  of  crimson  which  ranks  high  from 
the  self-advertising  standpoint.  It  is  indeed  an 
attractive  fruit,  and  with  nrisp,  juicy  flesh  and 
delightful  flavour  promises  to  become  one  of  the 
most  popular  of  dessert  fruits  in  the  near  future. 
So  highly  did  the  fruit  committee  regard  the 
variety  that  a  first-class  certificate  was  awarded 
it.  Exhibited  by  Messrs.  James  Veiteh  and 
Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea.  All  the  foregoing  were 
shown  at  a  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  on  September  28  last. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Answeps.— TA«  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  @-AA9EN  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  hra/nch  of  gardening  may 
be,  a/nd  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
twns  shoiUd  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
G-ARDBK,  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
2'he  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  Tie  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  m/rre  than  vne  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  pa/per. 


FLOWBR    GARDEN. 

Keeping:  bulbs  {E.  M.  i..)-— The  bulbs 
would  be  quite  useless  and  probably  all  dead  afc 
the  end  of  the  prolonged  period  you  name,  and 
would  only  be  worth  the  experiment  in  the  event 
of  their  being  of  much  greater  value.  A  far 
better  way  would  be  to  secure  the  services  of 
a  gardening  friend  to  take  care  of  them  for  a 
year,  even  though  you  parted  with  some  of  the 
stock  in  recognition  of  the  services  rendered. 
Moreover,  while  some  bulbs  store  fairly  well, 
others  will  not  endure  it,  and  those  that  store 
at  all  are  greatly  weakened  by  the  process. 

Tulips  for  bOPdeP  {George  H.  BaTnaden). 

A  nice  selection  of  early  single  Tulips  for  the 
purpose  you  require  would  be  White  Potte- 
bakker  (white),  Mon  Treaor  (yellow),  Dusart 
(rich  deep  crimson),  Prince  of  Austria  (orange 
red),  Potter  (rich  purple)  and  Hector  (orange 
red  with  a  yellow  edge).  These  are  all  soft 
colours  and  are  about  the  same  height.  As  an 
alternative  to  Mon  Tresor,  we  suggest  Prince 
de  Ligny,  which  is  a  longer  and  more  graceful 
flower.  The  above  varieties  flower  very  much 
at  the  same  time,  but  the  yellows  are  a  little 
earlier  than  the  others  and  Prince  of  Austria  is 
just  a  little  later.  It  is  impossible  to  get  equal 
heights  and  also  flowers  which  open  exactly  at 
the  same  time ;  still,  the  above  will  all  be  in 
bloom  together. 

Violets  In  ft>ameB  (A  Flower  Lomr).~ThQ  best 
time  to  start  is  the  early  autumn,  aay,  September  or 
October,  and  a  start  may  be  made  with  (a)  cuttings  or 


rooted  cuttings,  to  be  wintered  in  cold  frames  for  growing 
on  for  another  year  ;  or  (6)  strong  flowering  clumps  in  pots 
or  from  the  open  that  would  flower  during  the  coming 
winter  and  spring.  The  latter  would  do  quite  well  in  a 
greenhouse  excluding  frost  in  severe  weather,  or  in  a 
frame  where  a  slight  bottom-beat  existed.  For  the 
greenhouse  the  plants  are  best  in  pots  of  not  less  than 
6  inches  diameter,  and  with  a  fairly  moist  atmospheric 
condition  growth  and  flowering  would  be  continuous.  In 
a  frame  the  growth  and  flowering  would  depend  greatly 
on  the  weather  ;  and  well-grown  and  established  plants, 
provided  the  frame  be  placed  in  a  warm  or  sheltered 
position,  need  not  be  planted  on  a  bottom-heat  bed,  but 
may  be  placed  on  a  firm  bed  of  ashes  with  soil  between  the 
plants.  Usually,  however,  a  bed  of  leaves  and  manure  is 
formed  to  provide  a  bottom-heat  for  the  plants,  and  it  not 
infrequently  happens  that  a  gross  growth  is  made,  and 
a  minimum  of  flowers  results.  Firm  planting  is  at  all  times 
essential  in  frame  culture,  and  the  reverse  may  have  much 
to  do  with  failure.  Young,  freshly  rooted  plants  may 
also  be  planted  in  good  ground  in  early  April,  and  by 
keeping  all  runners  cleared  away  daring  the  season  good 
clumps  result  for  lifting  for  framiDg  in  September.  Light 
soils  may  have  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  clay  or 
heavy  loam,  and  if  made  quite  firm  should  give  good  results. 
We  cannot  say  what  price  you  ought  to  pay  for  good  soil, 
as  this  depends  upon  distance  of  cartage  and  other  matters 
of  which  We  have  no  knowledge.  Good  loamy  soil  may  be 
available  on  the  field  at  53.  per  load  ;  but  it  may  be  double 
that  amount  if  it  has  to  be  carted  two  or  three  or  more 
miles.  The  price  of  plants  will  also  depend  upon  their 
size  and  the  varieties,  whether  new  or  old. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Manure  for  SUver  Firs  and 
Cedara  (M.  S.  M.).—The  best  thing  to  do 
with  your  trees  is  to  obtain  some  well-rotted 
oow-manure  and  decayed  leaves  in  equal 
proportions,  mix  them  together  and  apply 
about  6  inches  as  a  top-dressing,  first  removing 
loose  material,  such  as  old  dead  leaves  and  loose 
soil,  which  miy  be  beneath.  Keep  the  manure 
6  inches  from  the  trunk  all  round  and  let  it 
extend  to  the  outermost  edges  of  the  branches. 
Failing  this,  scatter  about  101b.  of  fish-manure 
under  each  tree  and  well  water  it  iu.  You  must, 
however,  be  careful  to  water  far  enough  out,  for 
the  best  feeding  roots  will  be  found  some  distance 
from  the  trunk. 

Deatpoying:  old  tree  atumpa  (W. 

Leicester). — To  destroy  stumps  of  trees  a  large 
hole  must  be  bored  past  the  centre  of  the  stump, 
or  several  holes  in  the  case  of  a  large  tree.  Holes 
IJ  inches  to  2  inches  in  diameter  are  the  best. 
These  must  be  filled  with  saltpetre  and  a  little 
water  and  corked  up.  Leave  for  three  or  four 
months ;  then  fill  the  holes  with  paraffin  and  apply 
a  light.  The  stumps  ought  then  to  smoulder 
away.  Although  in  many  eases  this  method 
proves  satisfactory,  it  sometimes  does  not  answer 
from  various  local  causes,  such  as  excessive 
moisture  round  about  or  very  sappy  stumps.  In 
such  cases  the  stumps  should  be  grubbed  up  and 
split  with  blasting  powder,  when  they  may  be 
burnt  in  the  ordinary  way. 

To  carpet  w^oods  with  Ivy,  Fepns  and 
othep  undepgpowrth  (B.  P.  B.).— You  may  plant 
your  woods  in  the  way  you  desire  as  soon  as  the  autumn 
rains  have  well  soaked  the  ground  ;  everything  that  you 
wish  bo  plant  will  succeed  at  that  time.  Your  best  way  to 
proceed  to  obtain  Epilobium  angustifolium  in  quantity  is  to 
obtain  roots  from  places  where  you  know  that  it  grows 
wild,  break  them  up  into  small  pieces  and  plant  in  large 
groups  2  inches  or  3  inches  deep.  Seeds  may  also  be 
gathered  now  and  sown  at  almost  any  time  when  the  ground 
is  moist.  You  will  doubtless  obtain  the  plant  in  your 
neighbourhood,  for  it  is  common  in  most  parts.  If,  how- 
ever, you  are  unable  to  obtain  it  locally,  try  Amos  Perry, 
Enfield,  Middlesex.  Common  Ivy  is  the  most  suitable  for 
undergrowth.  Plants  2  feet  long  can  be  obtained  at  a 
very  cheap  rate  from  most  nurserymen.  Bracken  is  rather 
difficult  to  establish,  and  you  will  find  that  other  common 
Ferns  establish  much  quicker.  Messrs.  Epps  and  Co.  of 
Ringwood,  Hants,  supply  peat  containing  Bracken  roots  for 
planting,  and  they  would  probably  be  able  to  supply  large 
quantities  of  other  Ferns.  Tou  will  find  that  Foxgloves 
are  excellent  subjects  for  a  position  such  as  you  name.  A 
few  hundred  plants  could  be  put  in,  and  the  seeds 
from  them  would  stock  your  woods.  If  you  preferred  to 
wait  a  year,  you  could  sow  seeds  of  Foxgloves  next  spring, 
which  would  mature  for  the  following  year.  Both  Vinca 
major  and  V.  minor  are  excellent  evergreen  trailing 
plants  suitable  for  a  wood,  and  they  have  the  additional 
advantage  of  producing  their  blue  flowers  freely.  Messrs. 
Smith  of  Darly  Dale,  Derbyshire,  can  supply  them. 
Solomon's  Seal  always  loolcs  well  in  a  wood,  while  Primroses 
and  Violets  ought  not  to  be  omitted.  Butcher's  Broom  is 
a  good  evergreen  growing  1^  feet  to  2  feet  high,  while  in 
fairly  open  places  you  could  introduce  patches  of  the  Red 
Campion  tLychnis  diurna).    Bulbs  ought  to  be  planted, 


and  these  could  be  put  in  at  once.  Snowdrops,  Daffodils 
and  Bluebells  are  all  suitable  ;  the  two  former  can  be 
obtained  at  a  cheap  rate  from  any  seedsman,  while  a  few 
bushels  of  Bluebell  bulbs  could  probably  be  dug  up  some- 
where in  the  neighbourhood.  When  you  are  planting,  be 
careful  to  place  the  plants  in  as  natural  a  manner  as 
possible,  making  large  and  small.  Irregular-shaped  groups 
which  have  no  apparent  dividing  line  between  the 
various  things,  with  irregular  open  glades  carpeted  with 
Ivy  or  Vinca  between  the  taller-growing  subjects. 


THE    GREENHOUSB. 
Agapanthuaea    In   largre    pota 

(A.  O.). — Agapanthuees  in  large  pots  must  be 
wintered  somewhere  quite  safe  from  frost.  If 
the  vinery  fulfils  these  conditions  it  will  be  just 
the  place  for  them.  Otherwise  they  may  be  kept 
in  a  cellar,  shed,  coach-house  or  similar  structure, 
provided,  as  above  stated,  frost  is  excluded 
therefrom.  During  that  period  the  roots  should 
be  kept  fairly  dry.  The  difficulty  with  plants 
wintered  in  structures  where  there  is  but  little 
light  is  that  they  start  into  growth  in  the  spring 
too  soon  to  be  turned  out  of  doors,  and  it  is  then 
almost  essential  that  they  have  a  glass  covering 
of  some  kind.  If  the  Vines  are  not  forced  the 
vinery  will  suit  them  well,  even  if  they  pass  the 
depth  of  winter  elsewhere.  The  scarlet  Lobelia 
is  hardy  in  many  localities,  and  should  pass  the 
winter  safely  with  you  if  the  crowns  are  pro- 
tected by  a  few  leaves  or  Cocoanut  refuse.  In 
cold  districts,  in  order  to  ensure  safety  some  of 
the  crowns  are  potted  and  wintered  in  a  frame. 
Hydrangea  paniculata  is  perfectly  hardy,  and 
will  pass  the  winter  safely  if  the  pots  are 
plunged  in  the  open  ground.  Sand  or  dry  earth 
is  better  in  which  to  store  Dahlia  tubers  than 
sawdust,  as  this  last  is  liable  to  generate  fungus. 

Tpeatment  of  mealy  bugr  (4-  B.  Riidon).—Vfa 
cannot  recommend  the  cyanide  for  fumigating  in  a  general 
way,  and  unless  you  have  some  special  knowledge  of  it  and 
how  to  use  it,  we  advise  you  not  to  try.  It  is,  of  course, 
a  deadly  weapon  in  the  hands  of  the  experienced,  but  it 
may,  if  such  a  thing  were  possible,  be  even  more  than 
this  in  the  hands  of  the  inexperienced.  You  do  not  say 
what  plants  are  affected  by  the  bug,  otherwise  we  might 
give  yeu  more  definite  help.  You  speak,  too,  of  "brushing 
them  otf ,"  and  that  this  "  does  not  get  rid  of  them."  That 
we  quite  expect.  If,  however,  you  could  employ  neat 
paraffin  applied  with  a  small  paint  brush,  or  methylated 
spirit  applied  in  the  same  way,  we  think  you  might 
speedily  reduce  their  numbers.  Or  if  this  is  not  practicable, 
try  syringing  with  a  solution  of  Nicoticlde  or  XL  All,  using 
a  wineglassful  to  a  gallon  of  water.  For  these  things  you 
will  find  the  Abol  syringe  quite  the  best  thing  wherewith 
to  apply  the  mixture,  and  as  it  emits  a  very  fine 
spray,  the  whole  thing  becomes  quite  economical.  If  we 
can  further  assist  you  we  shall  be  happy  to  do  so. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Black    Hamburgh    Grapea    not 

COlOUPlng  (A".  T.  Z.). — We  have  found  in 
practice  that  there  are,  generally  speaking, 
three  distinct  causes  of  Grapes  not  colouring. 
The  most  common  cause  is,  no  doubt,  over- 
cropping. You  will  know  whether  this  has 
anything  to  do  with  the  cause  of  failure  in  your 
case.  If  it  has,  you  will  have  to  crop  lighter. 
Another  reason  for  ithe  non-colouring  of  Grapes 
is  that,  through  some  cause  or  other,  the  roots 
of  the  Vine  have  been  so  weakened  that  they 
have  not  the  power  left  to  finish  the  Grapes 
properly.  In  this  case  the  only  way  in  which 
to  bring  back  the  Vine  to  robust  health  is  to 
get  at  its  roots  and  place  them  in  new,  good 
Vine  soil,  where,  in  the  spaoe  of  a  very  short 
time,  they  will  form  new  roots  in  great 
abundance,  with  the  help  of  which  the  Vine 
will  be  re-established  in  good  health,  and  you  will 
have  no  further  trouble  with  the  want  of  colour 
in  your  Grapes.  We  presume  that  you  know 
how  to  go  about  the  work  of  lifting  and  replant- 
ing the  roots  of  Vines  and  also  the  constituents 
which  go  to  make  the  best  soil.  If  you  do  not, 
we  shall  only  be  too  glad  to  help  you  further. 
Another  cause  of  non-colouring  in  Grapes  is  the 
absence  of  potash  in  the  soil.  The  best  way  of 
making  this  deficiency  good  is  by  top-dressing 
the  border  with  the  following  artificial  manures  : 
Icwt.  of  dissolved  bones,  Jowt.  of  nitrate  of 
potash  and  Jcwt.  of  sulphite  of  lime,  mixing 
them  well  together  and  applying  at  the  rate  of 


512 


THE     GARDEK. 


[October  16,  1909. 


21b.  to  the  square  yard  at  intervals  of  a  month 
during  the  summer.  By  observing  the  propor- 
tions mentioned  you  can  make  up  any  quantity 
you  may  wish,  whether  larger  or  smaller  than 
that  given. 

Nuts    dpoppingr   befope    they    ape    pipe 

(F.  S,). — The  bushes  have  been  badly  attacked  by  aphides, 
and  the  honeydew  exuded  by  these  pests  has  allowed  one 
of  the  black  fungi  to  grow  upon  the  leaves ;  these 
together  have  so  interfered  with  transpiration  and  other 
functions  of  the  leaf  as  to  make  the  bushes  in  bad  health  ; 
hence,  do  doubt,  the  cause  of  the  fall  of  the  Nuts. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Names  of  plants.—^.  //.—I,  Trachelospermum 
jasmlnoides  ;  2,  Cotoneaster  frigida ;  3,  Ceauothus  Gloire 
de  Versailles  ;  4,  Cosmos  bipinnatus;  5,  Salvia  Horminum 
(Purple  Clary) ;  6,  Aster  Novi-Belgii  Janus  ;  7,  A.  multi- 

florus. iV.    6.    Uadden. — 1,   Aster  Novse-Angliffi    var. 

pulohellus  ;  2,  A.  Novi-Belgii  Robert  Parker  ;  3,  A.  Novae- 
Anglise  ;  4,  A.  Novi-Belgii  var.  mala  ;  5,  Polygonum  ailine  ; 
6,  Acaena  Inermis. 4//oid. —Sambuous  Ebulus  (Dane- 
wort). A.  P.  Mclmlle. — Euphorbia  amygdaloides. 

Names  of  fpult.— H.  Per;;/.— Pears :  1,  Conference; 

2,  Souvenir  du  Congr^s ;  3,  Beurr^  Hardy ;  4,  BeurrS 
d'Amanlls ;  5,  Glou  Morveau  ;  6,  Uvedale's  St.  Germain. 

J.  Heap. — The  Peach  we  believe  to  be  Sea  Eagle,  but 

one    cannot    be    certain    without    some    foliage.— — J. 

Maloolm.— Apple   Oslin. J.    R.    F.    ff.— Pear    BeurriS 

Hardy E.  i.— Pear  Brown  Beurri. W.  T.,  Norinch. 

—Apple    Worcester    Pearmain. H.    H.,    Bristnl.— The 

Apple    is    Golden    Noble,    and     the     Pear    BeurriS    de 

Capiaumont. W.  W.—l,  John  Apple  ;   2,  Cornish  Gilli- 

flower  ;  3,  Striped  Beaufin  ;   4  and  6,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  ; 

6,  Court  of  Wick ;  7,  Reinette  du  Canada ;  8,  Alfriston. 

F.  A.  Le.—l,  Josephine  de  Malines ;  2,  Bergamotte 
Esperen  ;    4,  Beurre  Goubault ;    6,   Marie  Louise.     Only 

four  varieties  sent. H,  Dewey, — Crab  John  Downie. 

J.  Higgs.—We  should  say  this  is  a  local  variety. ./.  H.  O. 

—I,  Ribston  Pippin  ;  2,  Claygate  Pearmain  ;  3,  7  and  S, 
Irish  Peach  ;   4,  Yellow  Ingestre  ;  6,  Hall  Door ;   (i,  Dutch 

Mignonne.— — A.  /i.— Pear  Doyenne  du  Cornice. P.  J. 

Ashdown.—Vlam  Belgian  Purple V.  R.  D.—l,  Washing. 

ton  ;  2,  Potta'  Seedling ;  3,  Stirling  Castle  :  4,  Lane's 
Prince  Albert ;  6,  Court  Pendu  Plat ;  8,  Warner's  King  ;  7, 

Beurrii  Diel ;  8,  Doyennci  du  Cornice ;  9,  Trout  Pear. T.  E. 

Wooihouse.—l,Tiev  Hawthornden  ;   2,  Tower  of  Glamis  ; 

3,  Dutch  Mignonne  ;  4,  Bess  Pool ;  5,  Annie  Elizabeth  ; 
6,  Sandringham  ;  7,  Cellini  Pippin ;  8,  Mank's  Codlin  ; 
9,  General  Todleben ;  10,  Bergamotte  Esperen ;  11, 
Keswick  Codlin  Improved ;  12,  Flanders  Pippin ;  13, 
Swan's  Egg;  14,  Beurrd  Dlel ;  15,  Pond's  Seedling;  16, 
Cox's  Orange  Pippin  ;  17,  Stirling  Castle ;  18,  Peasgood's 
Nonsuch. E.  Neighbour.— I,  Alfriston;  2,  New  Haw- 
thornden ;  3,  Seaton  House. George  iJei.- Apples  :   1, 

Margil ;    2,  Reinette  du  Canada  ;   3,  Old  Hawthornden  ; 

4,  Stubbard ;  5,  Withington  Fillbasket ;  6,  Yorkshire 
Beauty ;     7,    Emperor    Alexander.      Fears :     S,    Beurri 

d'Anjou;  9,  Marie  Louise. W.  J.  i\'.— Apples  :  a.  King 

Edward  ;  6,  Doyenne  de  Merode ;  c,  Pitmaston  Duchess  ; 
rf,  Uvedale's  St.  Germain  ;  e,  not  recognised  ;  f,  Duchesse 

d'AngoulSme. T.  Whilfield.—l,  Wellington';  2,  Yellow 

Ingestre. Mercitrg.  —  4,    Warner's    King  ;    7,    Wyken 

Pippin  ;  8,  Lane's  Prince  Albert ;  9  and  11,  New  Haw. 
thornden  ;  10,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  ;  13,  Lord  Derby.    All 

the    other    numbers    were    detached. H.    Jackson.^ 

Pears :     I,  Marie  Guise ;   2,   BeurriS   Diel ;    3,    Williams' 

Bon    Chrutien. Purjleet.—l,    Bramley's    Seedling ;     2, 

Wellington. 


SOCIETIES. 

THE  NATIONAL  CHRYSANTHEMUM  SOCIETY'S 
CONFERENCE. 
In  place  of  the  usual  October  eshilMtioD  hitherto  held  by 
the  above-named  society,  the  executive  committee  wisely 
decided  to  hold  a  conference,  and  this  took  place  on 
Wednesday,  October  G,  at  Essex  Hall,  Essex  Street, 
Strand,  W.C.  The  conference  was  divided  into  two 
sessions,  afternoon  and  evening,  and  was  a  distinct 
success.  In  the  absence  of  the  chairman,  Sir  Albert 
Rollit,  LL.D.,  D.C.L.  (president  of  the  society),  Mr. 
Thomas  Bevan  occupied  the  chair.  The  afternoon  session 
opened  with  an  excellent  attendance  of  members,  Mr.  C. 
H.  Curtis  dealing  with  the  subject  of  "Chrysanthemums 
as  Annuals."  He  explained  that  it  had  been  left  to  him  to 
introduce  this  subject,  because  other  members  who  had 
had  considerable  practical  experience  had  declined  to 
deal  with  the  subject  on  this  occasion.  The  usual  cultural 
details  he  had  decided  to  omit.  He  said  it  was  a  most 
interesting  subject,  as  it  took  only  some  eight  to  nine 
months  to  bring  the  flowers  to  perfection.  A  wonderful 
display  made  at  the  Reading  show  two  years  ago  was 
mentioned,  in  which  groups  of  highly  decorative,  freely 
flowered  plants  were  exhibited,  all  raised  from  plants 
raised  from  seeds  sown  in  the  spring  of  that  year.  A  visit  to 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons'  Nursery,  Reading,  was  deseribed, 
where  a  large  house  was  filled  with  single  Chrysan- 
themums raised  in  this  way.  Mr.  Curtis  said  there  was  a 
great  future  for  Chrysanthemums  when  treated  as 
annuals.  This  method  of  culture  was  cheap,  as  a  packet 
of  seed  could  be  purchased  for  a  less  sum  than  the  price  of 
a  young  plant  of  a  named  ^ariety.  A  packet  of  seed  would 
previde  sufficient  plants  to  fill  a  fair-sized  conservatory. 
Chrysanthemums  treated  as  annuals  did  away  with  the 
edious  process  of  propagation  by  cuttings ;    there  was 


also  a  considerable  saving  in  time  and  space  by  raising 
the  plants  as  annuals  as  compared  with  propagation  by 
cuttings.  When  the  seeds  were  sown  in  January  or  early 
February  ia  a  temperature  of  about  60'^,  and  the  resulting 
plants  were  gradually  hardened  off  and  grown  on  freely 
and  carefully,  subsequently  the  plants  should  provide  a 
flrst-rate  display  from  the  end  of  October  onwards.  The 
average  height  of  the  plants  was  given  as  about  3  feet. 
He  recommended  very  little,  if  any,  disbudding. 

Mr.  Curtis  concluded  his  paper  by  stating  that  this  new 
phase  of  culture  o£fered  great  possibilities  in  the  extension 
of  Chrysanthemum  culture  among  amateurs,  and  especially 
to  those  who  find  it  difficult  to  keep  a  large  number  of 
stock  plants  for  providing  cuttings  during  the  winter. 
He  also  suggested  that  Chrysanthemum  societies  should 
encourage  the  cultivation  of  Chrysanthemums  as  annuals 
by  arranging  competitions  at  their  November  shows. 
The  discussion  was  opened  by  Mr.  D.  B.  Crane,  who 
mentioned  that  he  had  raised  Chrysanthemums  this  year 
by  sowing  seeds  on  a  hot-bed  in  April,  subsequently  plant- 
ing the  seedlings  in  a  cold  frame  and  placing  the 
established  plants  in  their  flowering  quarters  in  June.  At 
the  present  time  a  large  proportion  of  the  plants  were  in 
flower,  and  others  were  likely  to  continue  the  display  for 
some  time.  The  first  plant  to  come  into  flower  began  its 
display  as  early  as  mid-August.  He  also  suggested  that 
societies  would  do  well  to  encourage  the  cultivation  of 
Chrysanthemums  as  annuals.  Mr.  P.  A.  Cragg  asked 
whether  it  would  be  possible  to  raise  seedlings  of  fairly 
even  height  for  bedding.  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes  supported  the 
previous  speakers,  pointing  out  that  seeds  of  dwarf- 
flowering  kinds  produced,  aa  a  rule,  fairly  dwarf  plants. 

Mr.  Norman  Davis  said  that  fully  twenty  years  ago  he 
raised  Chrysanthemums  as  annuals,  and  at  one  time  he  had 
quite  5.0U0  seedling  plants.  He  advised  the  growing  of 
seedling  Chrysanthemums  as  bedding  plants,  and  advocated 
pinching  the  tall  plants  to  get  the  collection  of  uniform 
height,  which  he  said  was  desirable.  He  agreed  with  Mr. 
Crane  that  raising  seedlings  was  most  fascinating.  He 
said  Mr.  Wells  deserved  congratulation  for  reintroducing 
the  culture  of  seedlings. 

Mr.  W.  J.  Godfrey  was  strongly  averse  to  the  idea.  He 
considered  the  raising  of  Chrysanthemums  as  annuals  a 
retrograde  movement  and  a  step  downhill.  He  said  moat 
of  the  seedlings  were  weedy.  Mr.  Oliver  mentioned  his 
experience  in  raising  seedlings,  and  said  a  cross  between 
Carrie  Luxford  and  another  variety  produced  seedlings 
that  varied  considerably  in  their  height  and  also  in  their 
period  of  flowering.  Mr.  J.  H.  Witty  and  others  also 
spoke. 

The  second  paper  in  the  afternoon  session  was  given 
by  Mr.  W.  Wells,  and  was  the  development  of  the  early- 
flowering  single  Chrysanthemum  in  a  nutshell,  so  to  speak. 
He  said  that  in  the  spring  of  l'.i(i2  he  commenced  to  make 
crosses  with  a  single  variety  named  Mabel  Goacher,  which 
was  raised  by  Mr.  Goacher.  From  this  variety  and  one  or 
two  others  he  succeeded  in  raising  a  number  of  seedlings 
which  were  the  forerunners  of  the  race  of  plants  that  are 
now  so  popular  to-day.  The  varieties  which  are  so  well 
known  to  growers  to-day  were  each  mentioned  in  turn, 
showiug  how  the  development  proceeded.  Selections  in 
which  the  ditferent  colours  were  represented  were  given 
in  detail,  and  these  were  followed  with  considerable 
interest. 

In  the  course  of  the  discussion  which  ensued  it  was 
stated  that  the  single-flowered  kinds  with  a  single  row  of 
florets  will  not  stand  the  weather  so  well,  and  it  was 
also  mentioned  that  they  like  cooler  better  than  the 
warmer  weather,  and  that  when  the  temperature  reached 
70°  the  flowers  will  burn  and  spoil.  Mr.  Crane  asked  Mr. 
Wells  whether  he  had  not  used  other  varieties  than  those 
he  had  mentioned  when  making  his  earlier  crosses,  as  he 
himself  had  shown  bunches  of  single-flowered  Chrysanthe- 
mum Mrs.  C.  H.  Curtis  in  his  winning  collection  in  the 
leading  class  at  the  Crystal  Palace  in  1903.  Mr.  J.  H.  Dick 
asked  how  many  degrees  of  frost  the  single-flowered  kinds 
would  stand. 

In  reply  to  the  various  questions  put  to  Mr.  Wells,  he 
said  that  he  regarded  Mrs.  C.  H.  Curtis  (the  single  variety) 
as  an  October,  and  not  a  true  early-flowering,  single  Chry- 
santhemum. He  also  said  the  single  kinds  will  stand  more 
frost  than  the  doubles.  Singles  did  not  always  show  their 
true  character  the  first  year,  though,  as  a  rule,  they  did 
show  their  general  character. 

A  vote  of  thanks  to  Mr.  Curtis  and  Mr.  Wells  concluded 
the  business  of  the  afternoon  session. 
Evening  Session. 

The  attendance  at  the  evening  session  was  in  no  way 
diminished  ;  as  a  matter  of  fact,  there  were  more  persons 
present.  The  proceedings  commenced  at  six  o'clock,  Mr. 
Thomas  Bevan  again  occupying  the  chair. 

Mr.  J.  B.  Riding  read  a  paper  on  "  Late  Chrysanthemums 
for  Market";  this  was  followed  most  attentively  by  the 
audience,  which  included  a  good  sprinkling  of  market 
growers.  As  a  winter-flowering  plant  theChryaanthemum 
had  increased  in  popularity  during  the  past  ten  years, 
which  was  attributed  to  the  fact  that  these  flowers  last 
for  a  long  period  when  cut.  An  ideal  market  variety 
should  produce  flowers  of  a  decided  colour,  and  should 
have  good  stiff,  erect  stems,  also  carry  its  foliage  well, 
must  not  fade  quickly,  and  of  necessity  must  have  a  good 
constitution.  Late  varieties  should  produce  flowers  from 
their  terminal  buds  by  the  middle  of  December.  A  long 
season  of  growth  is  undoubtedly  essential  ;  therefore 
cuttings  should  be  rooted  early  in  the  season.  If  the 
plants  are  pinched  when  about  6  inches  high  or  even 
less,  this  will  lay  the  foundation  of  a  plant  large 
enough  for  all  purposes ;  but  the  pinching  should  be 
done  while  the  plant  is  quite  soft,  as  it  will  then 
break  freely.  He  recommended  placing  three  plants  in 
sixteens  (0-inch  pots).  Allow  ample  room  during  the 
summer  ao  that  light  and  air  can  be  secured,  as  these  are 


essential  factors  in  successful  culture.  Well-ripened 
wood  should  be  the  object  of  the  cultivator,  and  every 
means  used  to  that  end.  A  selection  was  then  given : 
White,  Cannell's  Late  Proliflc,  Mrs.  Thompson,  Queen  of 
the  Exe,  Princess  Victoria,  Heston  White,  Mme.  R. 
Oberthur,  'Snowdrift  and  Mile.  Theresa  Panckoucke  ; 
yellow,  Golden  Mrs.  Thompson,  Market  Gold,  Allman's 
Yellow,  Mrs.  G.  Beech,  True  Gold  and  Nagoya ;  crimson, 
Violet,  Lady  Beaumont,  W.  A.  Crossley  and  Matthew 
Hodgson ;  bronze,  Tuxedo  and  Lord  Brooke  ;  pink,  A.  J. 
Balfour,  Mile.  L.  Charvet,  Winter  Cheer  and  Framfield 
Pink. 

Mr.  Norman  Davies  opened  the  discussion  by  saying 
that  before  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  or 
similar  societies  expressed  an  opinion  as  to  the  real  worth 
of  a  new  variety  it  should  be  relegated  to  the  society's 
committee,  who  should  select  and  recommend  really  late 
ones  as  the  result  of  their  combined  wisdom.  Mr.  F. 
Ladds  said  he  did  not  trouble  whether  they  were  late  or 
not ;  be  tried  to  grow  them  late.  He  preferred  a  S^-inch 
pot  to  a  9i-inch  pot  for  late  varieties,  also  to  grow  four 
plants  in  apot  and  secure  three  good  blooms  od  each  plant, 

Mr.  Prickett  said,  "  My  experience  is  we  want  a  plant 
to  begin  with  with  a  dozen  to  fourteen  good  breaks.  It  is 
the  way  they  are  grown  ;  when  starved  they  flower  early." 
Mr.  J.  TuUey  said  he  grew  his  plants  in  SJ-inch  pots. 
The  variety  Mile.  T.  Panckoucke,  he  said,  needed  careful- 
ness in  watering.  He  watered  others  twice  to  this  variety 
once.  He  supported  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Davis  as 
regards  the  combined  opinion  of  the  committee  for  an 
authoritative  list  of  late  Varieties.  Mr.  Wells  said  he  fully 
endorsed  what  many  of  the  speakers  had  said.  "  No  one 
knows  what  a  Chrysanthemum  is  going  to  be  until  it  has 
been  grown  a  year  or  two."  He  recommended  a  trial  in  a 
market-grower's  establishment  for  the  purpose  of  proving 
the  sorts.  Mr.  Davis  also  remarked  that  certificates  for 
decorative  and  market  varieties  should  only  be  granted 
after  growing  plants  had  been  submitted  to  the  floral 
committee.  This  grower  also  explained  the  origin  of 
Framfield  Pink,  about  which  there  has  been  considerable 
misunderstanding  for  years.  He  considered  Roi  des 
Blancs  the  best  white  for  market  for  early,  midseason,  or 
late  work.  Mr.  Riding  replied  to  the  difl'erent  questions 
that  were  raised,  and  concluded  by  saying  that,  on  the 
test  of  Covent  Garden  Market,  his  list  of  varieties  would 
prove  a  really  good  one. 

Mr.  P.  A.  Cragg  immediately  followed  with  his  paper  on 
"The  Best  Chrysanthemums  for  Cut  Flowers  from  a 
Commercial  point  of  view."  He  regarded  Roi  des  Blancs 
as  the  best  of  the  whites  for  decorations.  Such  sorts  as 
Goacher's  Crimson  and  Horace  Martin  are  good  if  cut  back 
the  last  week  in  July.  October-flowering  Chrysanthemums 
should  be  propagated  at  the  end  of  March  or  beginning  of 
April  and  the  plants  should  not  be  stopped  at  all.  The 
Pompons  and  single-flowered  kinds  were  especially 
referred  to,  but  care  was  taken  to  make  a  wise  selection 
of  the  two  types.  Of  the  last-mentioned,  Mr.  Cragg  said, 
"  They  do  not  suit  everybody."  In  concluding,  an  interest- 
ing statement  was  made  by  this  grower  to  the  effect  that 
at  his  establishment  they  were  using  the  "fire  pots,"  as 
used  in  American  orchards  for  the  purpose  of  combating' 
frost  among  Chrysanthemums  growing  outdoors.  At 
present  they  could  not  speak  with  any  authority,  as  the 
matter  was  still  in  the  experimental  stage  ;  he  believed  it 
would  prove  successful. 

Mr.  D.  B.  Crane  then  proceeded  to  read  his  paper  on  the 
"Best  Chrysanthemums  for  Cut  Flowers  from  an  -'Esthetic 
Point  of  View."  This  well-known  authority  called  atten- 
tion to  the  undue  preference  given  to  the  Japanese  type 
of  the  flower,  by  which  means  many  of  the  most  beautiful 
types  of  the  Chrysanthemum  were  omitted  from  our 
English  gardens.  He  called  attention  to  the  claims 
of  the  quaint  and  curious  Anemone-flowered  Chrysan- 
themums, which  included  large  Anemones,  Japanese 
Anemones  and  Pompon  Anemones,  each  very  beautiful 
and  capable  of  adding  so  much  to  the  charms  of 
these  autumn-flowering  plants.  The  Pompons  were 
also  given  notoriety,  and  special  allusion  was  made 
to  the  real  beauty  of  the  miniature-flowered  Pompons, 
of  which  Snowdrop  and  Primrose  League  were  beautiful 
examples.  Reference  to  the  advance  in  the  single-flowered 
sections  was  made  and  their  value  for  home  decoration 
emphasised.  The  spidery  Chrysanthemums,  of  which  so 
little  is  known  by  the  majority  of  present-day  horti- 
culturists, were  given  a  meed  of  praise.  The  usefulness  of 
these  dainty  little  flowers  in  December  decorations  was 
specially  mentioned.  Private  growers  should  benefit  by  the 
lists  that  were  given  in  considerable  detail,  as  these  should 
enable  them  to  prepare  a  collection  of  Chrysanthemums 
that  will  flower  from  late  August  until  the  close  of  the 
year,  and  even  later.  Mr.  Crane  said  a  decorative 
Chrysanthemum  should  be  a  plant  with  a  good  bushy 
habit,  and  should  possess  a  sound  constitution.  The 
plant  should  be  free-flowering  and  develop  its  blossoms  on 
a  good  length  of  footstalk  without  disbudding.  The 
colours  of  the  flowers  need  not  be  self-coloured.  Self- 
coloured  flowers  were  necessary,  but  those  having  inter- 
mediate and  varied  tones  of  colour  should  have  a  place  in 
all  collections.  There  were  many  uses  to  which  they 
could  be  put.  The  neatly  formed  flowers  of  the  old  and 
once-popular  incurved  varieties,  as  represented  by  Mrs. 
Geo.  Rundle,  Mr.  Geo.  Glenny  and  Mrs.  Dixon,  were 
praised  for  their  decorative  value. 

Considerable  discussion  followed  these  two  papers,  Mr. 
J.  Williams  of  Ealing  supporting  them  in  no  unmeasured 
terms.  He  complained  that  the  florists  did  not  push  the 
singles  and  Pompons  that  both  Mr.  Crane  and  Mr.  Cragg 
had  justly  praised. 

The  conference  closed  at  about  8.30  p.m.  with  votes  of 
thanks  to  the  readers  of  the  papers  and  to  Messrs.  Crane, 
Curtis  and  Payne,  the  sub-committee  who  organised  the 
conference,  and  to  the  chairman  for  presiding. 


GARDEN. 


-^=^' 


'^M 


No.  1979.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


October  23,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


EESTOKINO   Vines   to 
Health     613 

lyOTES  OF  THB  WBBK 

Forthcoming  events      614 

CORBHSPORDBNaB 

Spraying  fruit  trees       514 

The  newer  Roses : 
Letters  from  all 
parts  of  the  world      616 

Hose  W.  C.  Egan  in 
America 616 

A     use     for     green 
Tomatoes       ..     ..    616 
Rose  aAKDEN 

British-raised  Roses      515 
ErroHEN  OAItCEN 

Black  scab  of 
Potatoes 516 

Planting  spring  Cab- 
bages in  autumn  . .    616 

B'LOWBB  GAKDEN 

Salvia  argentea       . .  517 

Sweet  Pea  chat  . .  617 
The    blue    bulbs    of 

spring      517 

Helenium    Riverslea 

Beauty 618 

Colchicum    Born- 

muelleri 518 

Eremurus  robustus . .  618 


CoLotTBED  Plate 
Pansies     and     their 

culture 619 

Fern  Garden 
Hart's-tongues  frilled 
and-tasselled. .     ..    519 

GARDERIKa  FOR  BESINNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 
week 520 

Potting  Hyacinths, 
Tulips  and  Crocuses    620 

The  outdoor  culture 
of  Tulips  for 
amateurs       ..     ..    621 

Climbers  for  front  of 

house       521 

THB  TOWN  GAEDEH   ..     621 
QARDBHlna  OF  THB  WBBE 

For  the    South   and 

Sonth  Midlands    . .  522 
For  the  North    and 

North  Midlands  ..  622 

New  plants 522 

Editor's  Table      . .     . .  523 

ANSWERS       TO      CORRB- 

8F0HDBNTS 

Flower  garden  . .     . .     623 

Trees  and  shrubs     . .     523 

Rose  garden      . .     , .     624 


ILLUSTRATIONS, 

Bose  W.  C.  Egan  in  an  American  garden      516 

Potatoes  affected  by  the  black  scab  or  warty  disease      616 
Salvia  argentea  in  the  garden  at  St.  Martin's  House . .    617 

The  new  Helenium  Eiverslea  Beauty     61S 

"  Matchless  "  Pansies Coloured  plate 

Eremurus  robustus  in  the  Rev.  Page-Uoberts's  garden    519 
Potting  Hyacinths,  Tulips  and  Crocuses       . .     . .    620,  521 


BDITORIAL.    NOTICBS. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  horticulture  is  repreeented  in  The 
QAHDEN,  a/nd  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questwna 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
tJie  "A-nswers  to  Correspondents"  colum/ns  a  conepiouous 
feature,  a/nd,  when  queries  a/re  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kvndly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  oommiunications  m/ust  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Gakden,  accompa/nied  by  na/me  amd  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  vnll  eruieavour  to  return  non-aocepted 
contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  loill  be 
treated  unth.  

The  Editor  loill  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
wnd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  m/uet  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GABDEN 
wUl  alone  be  recognised  as  aoceptanoe. 


Q^esi  to,  Tavistook  Street^  Covent  Garden,  W.Ci 


RESTORING     VINES     TO 
HEALTH. 

BEFORE  deciding  on  the  course  to  take 
with  the  object  of  restoring  sickly 
Vines  to  good  health,  it  is  well,  first, 
to  find  out,  if  possible,  what  has 
been  the  cause  of  failure,  because 
if  it  is  the  result,  say,  of  an  attack  of  red  spider, 
thrip,  mealy  bug  or  any  other  pest  injurious  to 
the  Vine,  it  is  obviously  useless  to  incur  the 
expense  and  labour  of  replanting  in  new  soil 
before  these  pests  are  destroyed.  It  may  be 
that  none  of  the  above  causes  has  operated  to 
bring  about  the  ill-health  of  the  Vines,  but 
rather  that  it  has  been  caused  by  the  exhausted 
condition  of  the  soil,  defective  drainage,  or  that 
the  main  roots  are  deeply  embedded  in  uncon- 
genial subsoil.  This  can  only  be  ascertained  by 
examining  the  roots  and  the  condition  of  the 
border,  which  we  will  now  proceed  to  do,  say, 
at  the  end  of  October  or  at  any  time  during  the 
winter,  but  the  earlier  the  better  after  the  time 
mentioned.  Many  Vines  are  planted  in  borders 
which  are  partly  outside  and  partly  inside,  others 
in  outdoor  borders  only,  and  others,  again, 
in  inside  borders  only.  The  work  of  renewing 
the  borders  is  much  the  same  in  each  case. 
Taking  the  double  border  as  an  example  and 
treating  the  inside  of  it  first,  the  first  thing  to 
do  is  to  clear  the  vinery  of  all  plants  or  any  other 
portable  article  likely  to  impede  the  progress  of 
the  work,  and  then  cut  a  trench  18  inches  wide 
the  whole  length  of  the  border  and  as  deep  as 
the  bottom  of  the  border,  say,  2^  feet.  The 
side  of  the  trench  next  to  the  Vines  must  be 
at  least  8  feet  distant  from  them.  The  whole  of 
the  soil  in  the  trenoh  should  be  wheeled  away 
down  to  the  drainage  at  the  bottom.  All  roots 
that  are  come  in  contact  with  in  forming  this 
trench  should  be  cut  through  with  a  knife. 
Having  cleared  the  trench  of  all  the  soil,  the 
next  thing  to  do  is  to  purchase  a  well-made 
five-tined  fork,  and  gradually  and  carefully  to 
work  away  the  soil  from  the  border  into  the 
trench  until  we  reach  within  '2J  feet  or  3  feet  of 
the  stems  of  the  Vines.  If  it  is  found — as  it 
often  is — that  the  soil  thrown  back  from  the 
border  into  the  trench  more  than  fills  it,  and 
that  it  hampers  the  workman  at  his  work,  have 
it  wheeled  away,  as  ultimately  all  this  shifted 
soil  will  have  to  be  cleared  away.  This  forking 
out  of  the  soil  from  among  the  roots  of  the  Vine 
is  a  work  needing  all  possible  oars,  as  if  the 
roots  are  lacerated  or  injured  in  any  way  by 
the  fork,  their  future  recovery  and  usefulness  are 
greatly  marred.  The  utmost  care  must  be  taken 
of  every  healthy  root  that  is  come  in  contact 
with    for    replanting    again    in    the    new   soil. 


Assuming  now  that  the  whole  of  the  soil  has  been 
cleared  away  from  the  roots  of  the  Vines  to 
within  3  feet  of  their  stems,  the  next  thing  to 
do  is  to  collect  the  liberated  roots  carefully 
together  and  turn  back  on  to  the  top  of  the 
border  at  the  base  of  the  Vines,  placing  a  wet 
mat  over  them  and  a  fairly  heavy  board  on  the 
top  of  that  to  keep  them  in  position  until  wanted 
for  replanting. 

The  Bottom  oj  the  Border. — Having  cleared 
the  whole  of  the  soil  away  from  the  part 
excavated,  an  opportunity  will  be  given  to 
examine  the  drainage.  If  the  border  is  found  to 
rest  on  a  subsoil  of  gravel  or  any  other  material 
sufficiently  porous  to  admit  of  the  free  passage 
of  water,  no  better  bottom  is  needed  ;  but  should 
it  be  resting  on  clay  or  some  other  substance 
equally  impervious  to  the  passage  of  water,  the 
bottom  must  be  concreted  and  drainage  secured 
by  the  insertion  of  rows  of  3-inch  drain-pipes  at 
distances  apart  of  4  feet,  having  sufficient  fall 
and  an  effective  outlet,  filling  in  between  the 
pipes  (and  deep  enough  to  cover  them)  with 
broken  bricks,  stones  and  potsherds.  Should  it 
be  found  in  clearing  away  the  soil  from  the 
border  that  some  of  the  Vine  roots  have  penetrated 
into  the  subsoil,  rather  than  try  to  trace  them 
to  their  source  and  lift  them  for  replanting  it 
will  be  better  to  cut  them  ofif,  as  such  roots  are 
of  practically  no  value  to  the  Vine.  We  have 
now  finished  what  may  be  termed  the  pulling 
down  or  destructive  part  of  the  work  of  reno- 
vating old  Vines,  and  will  now  proceed  to  the 
more  congenial  part  of  building  up  new  material 
which  is  to  give  new  life  and  greater  fertility  to 
the  Vines.  In  considering  the  work  of  replanting, 
the  nature  of  the  soil  and  its  preparation  must 
have  precedence  over  all  other  work.  In  the 
first  place,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the 
soil  be  prepared  beforehand  and  ready  to  be 
placed  in  the  border  as  soon  as  it  is  ready 
to  receive  it,  so  that  not  a  moment's  delay 
takes  place  before  the  Vines  are  replanted. 

The  Soil.  — It  is  considered  to  be  an  advantage 
by  some  gardeners  to  cut  and  stack  the 
turf  before  it  is  wanted  for  use.  My  experi- 
ence of  making  Vine  borders  goes  to  show  that 
there  is  no  advantage  attending  this  practice. 
The  first  thing  to  do  before  preparing  the  new 
soil  is  to  find  out  about  how  much  will  be 
required  to  fill  up  the  new  border.  The  planter 
must  bear  in  mind  that  little  more  than  half  the 
space  of  the  border  which  has  been  cleared  of 
soil  will  be  available  for  filling  up  for  the  present 
replanting  of  the  Vines,  the  other  portion  being 
reserved  for  another  addition  of  fresh  soil  to  the 
roots  in  two  years'  time.  As  the  success  of  the 
Vines  for  so  many  years  will  depend  on  the 
quality  of   the   soil   in   which  their   roots    are 


514 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  October  23,  1909. 


planted,  no  expense  or  trouble  should  be  spared 
in  obtaining  the  right  sort.  The  best  is  that 
obtained  from  an  old  meadow  pasture,  of  heavy 
rather  than  a  light  texture,  with  a  fair  depth  of 
loam  underneath,  and  resting  on  sandstone, 
limestone,  or  even  gravel.  The  grass  must  first 
be  cut  off  as  close  as  possible,  and  the  turf  may 
be  cut  into  any  lengths  and  widths  desirable,  but 
they  must  not  be  cut  of  greater  depth  than 
5  inches.  It  is  only  at  this  depth  that  masses  of 
grass  roots,  or  fibres,  are  found  in  the  turves, 
and  which  add  so  much  value  to  Vine  soil.  The 
turf  should  be  chopped  up  with  a  sharp  spade 
into  pieces  the  size  of  the  fourth  of  a  brick.  To 
each  cartload  of  such  turf  add  two  barrow-loads 
of  old  broken  bricks,  reducing  them  to  the  size 
of  a  hen's  egg,  and  adding  the  small  stuff  and 
the  dust  which  comes  from  them  (the  function 
of  this  material  is  to  keep  the  border  sweet, 
porous  and  well  ai'rated),  one  barrow-load  of  old 
mortar  or  plaster  rubble,  a  small  barrow-load  of 
quicklime,  '201b.  of  half -inch  bones  and  the  same  of 
bone-dust,  and  half  a  bushel  of  soot  or  of  wood- 
ashes.  Mix  the  whole  well  together  by  turning 
over  several  times,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  plant 
the  Vine  roots  in. 

The  first  thing  to  do  in  starting  on  the  new 
border  is  to  build  a  wall  of  turf  about  a  foot  wide 
and  as  high  as  the  surface  of  the  old  border,  and 
at  a  distance  from  the  stems  of  6  feet  (it  will, 
of  course,  run  the  whole  length  of  the  border). 
This  will  give  a  space  of  close  on  3  feet  to  be 
filled  with  new  soil  for  the  Vine  roots  to  root 
into,  and  still  leave  some  space  behind  the  turf 
wall  to  be  filled  up  with  new  soil  for  the  further 
encouragement  of  the  Vine's  growth  in  two  years' 
time.  In  commencing  to  fill  the  space  between 
the  turf  wall  and  the  roots  of  the  Vines  with  the 
new  soil,  the  largest  and  coarsest  of  the  lumps 
of  turves  should  be  selected  and  placed  at 
the  bottom  on  the  drainage  to  the  depth  of 
5  inches,  ramming  them  down  firmly.  Before 
proceeding  to  add  any  more  soil  to  the  new 
border,  we  must  now  examine  the  roots  placed 
under  the  mat  as  directed.  All  it  will  be 
found  necessary  to  do  will  be  to  cut  back 
the  jagged  ends  of  the  shortened  roots  with  a 
sharp  knife,  taking  care  that  the  cut  is  a  slanting 
one  and  the  surface  of  the  cut  facing  upwards. 
From  this  cut,  facing  upwards,  roots  will  be 
formed  with  a  tendency  to  grow  upwards,  form- 
ing valuable  surface  roots ;  on  the  other  hand, 
if  the  end  of  the  root  is  cut  with  the  face  of  the 
cut  part  facing  downwards,  the  new  roots  formed 
would  have  a  decided  tendency  to  strike  down 
to  the  bottom  of  the  border,  and  probably  to  the 
subsoil. 

Planting.  — In  the  first  place,  put  a  layer  of  the 
new  soil  4  inches  deep  over  the  rough,  turfy  soil 
already  at  the  bottom  of  the  border,  pressing  it 
down  firmly.  On  this  place  the  bottom  layer  of 
roots,  packing  the  soil  over  and  round  them  firmly 
with  the  hands.  Add  another  layer  of  soil  of 
the  same  depth  and  a  layer  of  roots  as  before. 
The  last  layer  of  roots  should  be  6  inches  below 
the  surface  of  the  border  when  it  is  finished.  It 
will  be  observed  that  the  soil  placed  over  each 
layer  of  roots  should  be  firmly  pressed  down,  as 
Vines  succeed  so  much  better  in  firm  soil  than  in 
that  which  is  loose  and  light.  The  soil  at  plant- 
ing-time should  be  on  the  dry  side  rather  than 
the  wet. 

We  have  now  finished  replanting  the  roots  of 
the  Vines.  It  only  remains  for  the  space  of  the 
old  border  left  vacant  behind  the  wall  of  turf  to 
be  filled  with  fresh  leaves  and  trodden  down 
hard,  Beech  or  Oak  leaves  for  preference. 
New  summer  roots  will  find  their  way  into  the 
leaves,  with  the  result  that  considerable  added 
strength  will  be  given  to  the  restoration  of  the 
Vines.  These  leaves  should  be  taken  out  the 
following  winter,  cutting  away  any  roots  there 
may  be  back  to  the  face  of  the  wall  of  turf,  and 
filling  again  with  leaves  as  before.  The  second 
winter  the  leaves  must  be  taken  away  and  the 
roots  treated  as  before,  the  space  filled  this 
time  with  soil  and  made  to  form  part  of  the  new 


permanent  border.  I  have  been  presuming  that 
the  Vines  under  treatment  are  growing  in  a 
double  border  (inside  and  out)  and  that  the 
inside  only  has  been  treated.  The  outside  part 
will  have  to  be  served  in  the  same  way  as  the 
inner  one,  and  in  the  case  of  single  borders, 
either  inside  or  outside,  the  treatment  will  have 
to  be  the  same. 

The  border  should  receive  a  good  soaking  of 
clear  water  to  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots  as 
soon  as  the  planting  is  finished,  afterwards  cover- 
ing the  border  over  to  the  depth  of  7  inches  with 
leaves  to  keep  it  fairly  dry  and  safe  from  the 
effect  of  severe  frosts.  The  leaves  should  be 
removed  the  first  week  in  May,  and  the  border 
left  exposed  for  a  fortnight  to  dry  and  sweeten 
its  surface,  when  it  may  receive  a  good  soaking 
of  weak  manure- water,  afterwards  adding  a 
mulching  of  fresh  horse-manure  and  loam  in 
equal  quantities,  with  a  light  sprinkling  of  bone- 
dust.  This  mulching  should  be  3  inches  deep 
and  pressed  firmly  to  the  border,  covering  it  over 
to  the  same  depth  with  half-decayed  litter  to 
prevent  too  rapid  evaporation.  As  a  result  of  this 
treatment  it  will  be  found  that  by  midsummer,  or 
soon  after,  the  new  soil  and  mulch  will  be  densely 
permeated  with  new  feeding  roots,  and  the  Vines 
correspondingly  strengthened. 

My  remarks  so  far  have  applied  to  root  culture 
alone,  which,  after  all,  is  the  mainspring  to  all 
good  culture,  as,  unless  a  plant  or  a  tree  possesses 
abundance  of  healthy  strong  roots,  successful 
results  are  impossible.  I  will  only  say  this  much 
in  reference  to  the  culture  of  the  Vine  itself 
under  glass — that  the  cultivator  must  bear  in 
mind  the  rough  ordeal  the  roots  of  the  Vines 
have  gone  through.  They  must  not  be  forced 
prematurely  into  growth,  but  allowed  to  break 
naturally  through  sun-heat  in  spring,  the  object 
being  to  secure  as  strong  a  break  of  shoots  as 
possible.  The  Vines  should  only  be  allowed  to 
carry  a  very.light  crop  the  first  year  after  lifting; 
afterwards  they  may  carry  full  crops.    X.  Y.  Z. 


NOTES  OF    THE  WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  by  the 
respective  Secretaries. 

October  25. — National  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Floral  Committee  Meeting  at  Essex 
Hall,  Strand,  London,  W.C. 

October  26. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Fruits  and  Vegetables, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster.  Lecture  at  3  p.  m. , 
by  Professor  G.  Henslow,  on  "  Remarkable 
Instances  of  Plant  Dispersion. " 

United  Hoptlcultupal  Benefit 
and  Provident  Society.— The  quarterly 
meeting  of  this  society  was  held  at  the  Horticul- 
tural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster,  S.W., 
on  Monday  evening,  October  11,  Mr.  C.  H. 
Curtis  in  the  chair.  The  death  certificate  of 
Mr.  James  Swingler  was  produced,  and  the 
amount  standing  to  his  credit,  viz.,  £30  48.  Id., 
was  granted  to  his  widow.  The  deceased  was  a 
lapsed  member  since  1892.  The  sick  pay  for  the 
month  was  £34  lOs.  The  usual  quarterly  grants 
from  the  Benevolent  Fund  were  passed  for  pay- 
ment. The  annual  dirmer  will  be  held  at  the 
Waldorf  Hotel  on  the  28th  inst.,  at  6.30  p.m., 
when  it  is  hoped  that  as  many  members  and 
friends  as  possible  will  attend.  J.  B.  Slade,  Esq. 
(of  Messrs.  Protheroe  and  Morris),  will  preside. 

The  Hampton  Court  Grapes.— 
No  one  who  saw  the  recent  exhibit  of  Grapes 
from  the  old  Black  Hamburgh  Vine  at  Hampton 
Court  could  but  be  impressed  with  the  results  of 
Mr.  McKellar's  labours  in  rejuvenating  this  old 
Vine,  and  also  in  being  more  and  more  convinced 
that  Black  Hamburgh  is  still  the  most  popular 
Grape  we  have.  Nowhere  this  year  have  more 
typical  examples  of  this  Grape  been  seen  than 


those  alluded  to.  No  doubt  heavier  bunches  with 
larger  berries  have  been  presented  at  some  few 
shows,  but  not  so  conspicuous  for  symmetry, 
correctness  of  shape,  evenness  in  berry,  and, 
above  all,  that  rich  bloom  which,  when  present, 
goes  to  make  Black  Hamburgh  the  most  attrac- 
tive of  all  Grapes.  All  these  qualities  have  well 
repaid  Mr.  McKellar  any  extra  trouble  he 
has  spent  in  imparting  a  new  lease  of  vigour 
to  the  old  Vine.  Much  more  might  be  done 
in  the  same  direction  to  Vines  less  than 
fifty  years  old  which  are  not  in  a  satisfactory 
condition,  instead  of  rooting  them  out  and 
replanting  new  canes.  The  present-day  craze 
for  large  bunches  of  Grapes,  among  other  things, 
has  much  to  do  with  the  objection  to  re-invigorat- 
ing old  Vines,  whereas  timely  attention  to  the 
encouragement  of  new  fibrous  roots  will  do  much 
in  improving  the  growth  first  of  the  leaves  and 
wood,  which  in  turn  produce  better  bunches. 
Rose  fence  at  Aldenham.— To  part 

one  portion  of  the  grounds  from  another  a 
winding  iron  fence  400  yards  long  and  4  feet 
high  was  put  up  a  few  years  ago  ;  to  hide  the 
fence  and  make  it  generally  interesting  climbing 
Roses  were  planted  about  10  feet  apart  and,  in 
the  stiff,  well-prepared  soil,  grew  amazingly. 
As  might  be  expected  under  such  favourable 
conditions,  a  wealth  of  flower  is  annually 
obtained,  rendering  this  part  of  the  garden  a 
distinct  feature.  The  necessity  of  depressing 
the  sucker-like  growths  on  such  a  low  fence  is, 
no  doubt,  all  in  favour  of  a  heavier  flower  dis- 
play, thus  checking  exuberant  growth  and 
rendering  such  shoots  more  fertile.  The  varie- 
ties used  are,  as  might  be  expected,  of  the  best, 
including  a  free  admixture  of  wichuraiana  varie- 
ties, as  they,  being  practically  evergreen  and  of 
a  semi-weeping  character,  are  exactly  suited  for 
such  a  purpose :  Lady  Gay,  Dorothy  Perkins, 
Alberic  Birbier,  Jersey  Beauty,  Renu  Andre, 
Gardenia  and  Evergreen  Gem  ;  Aimee  Vibert  is 
distinctly  a  useful  variety  for  such  a  purpose, 
flowering  well  into  the  autumn  ;  Claire  Jacquier, 
Leuohtstern,  Longworth  Rambler,  Reine  Marie 
Henriette,  The  Wallflower  and  William  Allen 
Richardson.— E.  M. 

Rose  Cllmblngr  Lady  Ashtown.- 

On  page  490,  in  the  list  of  "British-raised  Roses," 
Climbing  Lady  Ashtown  was  mentioned  as  being 
raised  by  Bentley,  whereas  it  should,  of  course, 
have  been  Bradley.  The  raiser  is  one  of  our 
best-known  rosarians,  and  his  nurseries  at 
Fengate,  Peterborough,  are  always  a  pleasure  to 
visit  in  the  flowering  time  of  the  Rose  and  other 
hardy  flowers. 

Leeds  Paxton  Society.- The  growers 

of  Sweet  Peas  in  various  parts  who  so  kindly 
helped  the  committee  of  this  society  with  contri- 
butions of  flowers  on  the  occasion  of  their  first 
show,  held  at  Headingley,  Leeds,  on  August  7, 
will  be  pleased  to  learn  that  the  exhibition 
resulted  in  a  net  profit  of  £7  in  aid  of  the  Royal 
Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  i»  not  responsible  /or  the   opinions 
expressed  hy  correspondents.) 


Spraying:  fruit  trees.— Now  that  the 

time  for  winter  spraying  of  fruit  trees  is  drawing 
upon  us  again,  may  I  call  the  attention  of  fruit- 
growers and  amateurs  to  the  Report  of  the  Con- 
ference on  the  Spraying  of  Fruit  Trees,  held  in 
the  Hall  of  this  society  on  October  16th,  1908, 
and  which  may  now  be  obtained  in  book  form. 
The  work  deals  with  the  methods  of  spraying 
for  both  entomological  and  fungoid  pests,  and 
gives  information  respecting  washes,  spraying 
machinery,  &c.  It  forms  the  latest  collated  in- 
formation on  the  subject,  and  may  be  had  at  the 
offices  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster,  price  Is. — W. 
WiLKS,  Stcrttary. 


October  23,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


515 


The  newer  Roses :  Letters  fpom 

all  paPtS  of  the  world.— The  kind  expres- 
sions of  approval  that  have  reached  me  through 
your  columns  and  the  post  of  my  "  Notes  on  the 
Newer  Roses  "  are  pleasant  reading,  and  I  beg 
to  thank  the  senders  of  them  very  heartily. 
They  are  not  confined  by  any  means  to  the 
British  Isles ;  in  fact,  I  have  received  letters 
of  thanks  from  Australia,  New  Zealand  and 
Trinidad,  so  that  your  journal  must  boast  a 
world-wide  circulation.  They  will  serve  as  an 
incentive  to  write  only  what  one  "  knows  "  as 
distinguished  from  what  one  "hears."  I  will 
deal,  with  your  permission,  with  those  writing 
recently  in  jour  columns  ;  the  others  I  have 
communicated  with  direct.  A  "  Leicester 
Reader"  desires  me  to  compa. 
the  substance  of  a  new  Rose  and 
the  number  of  its  petals  with  a 
similar  older  Rose  rather  than 
use  such  an  expression  as  "  rather 
thin,"  and  where  I  can  fairly  do 
so  I  will  ;  but  petals  in  the  indi- 
vidual flower  vary  enormously. 
Let  your  correspondent  pull  some 
to  pieces  and  count  the  separate 
petals  ;  he  will  be  surprised  at  the 
various  results  ;  but  I  know  what 
he  means  and  will  oblige  him  as 
far  as  possible.     "B.  W.  Price"  f^' 

thinks  my  description  of  the 
growth  of  Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot 
as  "not  too  good  a  grower" 
hardly  correct.  I  am  very  glad  to 
hear  that  with  him  the  growth  of 
this  beautiful  Rose  is  ' '  rampant " ; 
but  that  statement  is  rather 
severely  qualified  by  another  giving 
the  length  of  the  average  growth 
as  18  inches— hardly  rampant  ! 
Mr.  Price.  I  expressly  stated,  too, 
that  my  plants  of  it  were  grafted, 
and  meant  to  imply,  if  I  did  not 
say  so  in  as  many  words,  that  I 
did  not  consider  it  had  had  a  fair 
trial  under  the  circumstances. 
While  referring  to  your  Rose 
Number  I  might  point  out  a 
slight  error.  In  describing 
Warrior,  the  front-page  illustra- 
tion, it  was  stated  this  Rose  won 
the  silver  medal  for  the  best 
Hybrid  Tea  in  the  trade  and 
amateur  sections  at  the  autumn 
show  of  the  National  Rose  Society, 
recently  held  in  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society's  Hall  at  Vincent 
Square.  This  is  an  error,  as  the 
silver  medal  in  each  section  was 
won  by  Earl  of  Warwick.  Both 
Roses  were  raised  by  William  Paul 
and  Son,  and,  doubtless,  this 
accounts  for  the  error.  I  need 
hardly  say  that  I  hope  any  reader 
whose  experience  with  any  parti- 
cular Rose  difiers  from  mine  will 
put  his  on  record  ;  it  is  only  by  so 
doing  that  possible  errors  can  be 
rectified. — H.  E.  Molyneux.  [We 
have  corrected  the  mistake  about  the  Rose  Earl 
of  Warwick.  It  was  not  the  fault  of  our 
correspondent.  — Ed.  ] 

Rose  W.  C.  Ssan  in  Amepica.- 

Illustrations  in  The  Garden  from  this  side  of 
the  Pond  are  not  often  seen,  so  with  pleasure  I 
send  you  this  one,  hoping  it  will  arrive  safely. 
It  is  of  a  William  C.  Egan  Rose,  and  is  growing 
in  the  gardens  of  F.  S.  Moseley,  Newburyport, 
Mass.,  U.S.A.  It  was  raised  by  Jackson 
Dawson  of  Boston  in  1900  by  crossing  General 
Jacqueminot  with  Rosa  wichuraiana.  The  flower 
is  large,  very  double  and  of  a  beautiful  flesh 
colour.  It  blooms  in  early  summer  and  remains 
in  beauty  for  several  weeks.  It  is  a  strong 
grower,  having  clean,  bright  foliage,  which 
makes  it  popular  after  flowering.  In  this  part 
of   Massachusetts  it    is   necessary  to   cover  all 


the  hardy  Roses,  both  Ramblers  and  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  with  Pine  boughs  or  straw,  in  order 
to  get  them  to  live  through  the  winter,  as  in 
some  winters  the  thermometer  goes  down  20° 
below  zero  ;  but  it  can  be  seen  by  this  illustra- 
tion that  the  cold  weather  does  not  injure  to 
any  extent  this  Rose.  —  A  Newbubtpobt 
Readeb  of  "The  Garden." 
A  use  fop    grpeen    Tomatoes.— In 

consequence  of  the  cold,  wet  summer  we  have 
experienced  this  year,  a  great  number  of  the 
people  who  read  your  valuable  paper  must  have, 
like  myself,  a  large  quantity  of  Tomatoes  out  of 
doors  which  stand  no  chance  of  ripening.  A 
most  excellent  pickle  for  winter  use  can  be  made 
from  the  following  recipe,  which  I  believe  will 


ROSE  W.  C    EGAM   in  an  AMEKICAN  GARDEN 

not  be  found  in  any  cookery  book.  Green 
Tomato  pickle :  41b.  Tomatoes,  IJlb.  Apples, 
Ulb.  Onions,  3Jlb.  brown  sugar,  Jib.  Sultanas, 
3oz.  ground  Mustard,  loz.  salt,  Joz.  ground 
Ginger,  one  quart  brown  vinegar,  and  Joz.  each 
whole  Allspice,  whole  Pepper  and  Cloves,  and 
one  dozen  red  Peppers  tied  in  a  piece  of  muslin 
and  removed  after  cooking.  Cut  up  the  fruit 
and  Onions  and  boil  with  the  other  ingredients 
till  tender,  stirring  all  the  time  ;  put  into  pots, 
and  when  cold  tie  down  with  parchment  paper 
covers. — Violet  Jeffery. 

Lapge  plants  of  Heliotpope 
Ppesldent  Gapfleld.— I  should  be  much 
obliged  to  anyone  who  can  tell  me  where  I  can 
obtain  plants  of  Heliotrope  President  Garfield.  It 
has  been  largely  used  this  summer  in  the  London 
and  Liverpool  parks. — M.  H.  Scoit-Nicholson. 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 

BRITISH-RAISED    ROSES. 

(Cvntinued  from  page  502.) 
Below    we   give  a  continuation  of  the  list  of 
British-raised  Roses,  which  was  commenced  in 
our  Rose  Number,  published  on  the  9bh  inst.  : 

Hon.    Ina   Bingham,   H.T.,   A.   Dickson    and 
Sons. 

Hugh  Dickson,  H.P.,  H.  Dickson. 
Hugh  Watson,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 
Hugo  Roller,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Hugonis,  species,  J.  Veitoh  and  Sons. 
Iceberg.  Wioh.  T.,  Paul  and  Son. 
Irene,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Irish  Beauty,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Irish  Brightness,  H.T.,  A.  Dick- 
son and  Sons. 

Irish  Elegance,  H.  T. ,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Irish  Glory,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Irish  Harmony,  H.T.,  A.  Dick- 
son and  Sons. 

Irish  Modesty,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Irish  Pride,  H.T.,  A.   Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Irish    Star,   H.T.,   A.    Dickson 
and  Sons. 
J.  B.  Clark,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 
J.  B.   M.   Camm,  Bourb.,  Paul 
and  Son. 

Jas.    Coey,    H.T. ,   A.    Dickson 
■ijr'  and  Sons. 

Jeanie      Deans,     Briar,     Lord 
Penzance. 

Jeannie  Dickson,  H.P.,  A.  Dick- 
son and  Sons. 
Jessie,  Poly.,  Merryweather. 
John  Bright,  HP.,  Paul  and  Son. 
John  Cuff,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 
John  Hopper,  H.P.,  Ward. 
John  Ruskin,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 
John  Stuart  Mill,  H.P.,  Turner. 
Joseph  Lowe,  H.T. ,  Lowe  and 
Shawyer. 

Julia    Mannering,   Briar,   Lord 
Penzance. 

Juliet,  Hybrid,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Kathleen,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Kathleen,  Mult.,  W.  Paul  and 
Son. 

Killarney,    H.T.,    A.     Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Lady    Arthur    Hill,    H.P.,    A. 
Dickson  and  Sons. 

Lady  Ashtown ,  H.  T. ,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 
LadyA.  Stanley,  H.T. ,  McGredy. 
Lady  Battersea,  H.T.,  Paul  and 
Son. 

Lady     Clanmorris,     H.T.,     A. 
Dickson  and  Sons. 
Lady  Curzon,  Single,  Turner. 
Lady  Faire,  H.T.,  Bentley. 
Lady  Godiva,  Wich.,  Paul  and  Son. 
Lady  Helen  Stewart,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Lady  Helen   Vincent,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 
Lady  Henry  Grosvenor,  H.T.,  Bennett. 
Lady  Mary  Corry,  Tea,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 
Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam,  H.T.,  Bennett. 
Lady  Meriel  Bathurst,  Tea,  Jefferies. 
Lady  Moyra  Beauclerc,  H.  T. ,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 
Lady  Overtoun,  H.P.,  H.  Dickson. 
Lady  Penzance,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 
Lady  Pirrie,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 
Lady  Quartus  Ewart,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 
Lady  Roberts,  Tea,  F.  Cant. 


516 


THE     GARDEN. 


(October  23,  1909. 


Lady  Rossmore,  H.T.,  Hall. 

Lady  Sarah  Wilson,  Semi-double,  Turner. 

Lady  Sheffield,  H.P.,  Poatans. 

Lady  Ursula,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Lady  White,  Single,  Turner. 

Lawrence  Allen,  H.P.,  Cooling. 

Lena,  Tea,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Leslie  Holland,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 

Liberty,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Little  Dot,  Poly.,  Bennett. 

Little  Gem,  Moss,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Longworth  Beauty,  Tea,  Prince. 

Lord  Bacon,  H.  P. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Lord  Maoaulay,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Lord  Penzance,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Lorna  Doone,  Bourb. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 


POTATOES  AFFECTED   BY  THE   BLACK   SCAB  OR   WARTY   DISEASE. 


Lucida  plena,  Lucida,  J.  Veitch  and  Sons. 

Lucy  Ashton,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Lucy  Bertram,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Mabel  Morrison,  HP.,  Bennett. 

M.  Ada  Carmody,  Tea,  VV.  Paul  and  Son. 

M.  H.  Walsh,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Magna  Charta,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Maharajah,  H.P.,  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons. 

Mamie,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Marchioness  of  Downshire,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Marchioness  of  Dufferin,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Marchioness  of  Exeter,  H.P.,  Laxton. 

Marchioness  of  Londonderry,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Marchioness  of  Lome,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son 

Margaret,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Margaret  Dickson,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Margaret  Molyneux,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 

Marjorie,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Mary  Countess  of  Ilohester,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Mavourneen,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Medea,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Meg  Merrilies,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Merrie  England,  H.P.,  Harkness. 

Meta,  T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Mildred  Grant,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Milton,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Minna,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Miss  Cynthia  Eorde,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 

Miss  Ethel  Brownlow,  T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 


Morning  Glow,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Mrs.  A.  Byass,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Mrs.  A.  Chandler,  Bourb.,  Chandler. 
Mrs.  A.  M.  Kirker,  H.P.,  H.  Dickson. 
Mrs.  A.  Tate,  H.T.,  McGredy. 
Mrs.  Anthony  Waterer,  Rug. ,  Waterer. 
Mrs.    Arthur   Munt,   H.T.,   A.    Dickson    and 
Sons. 
Mrs.  B.  R.  Cant.  T.,  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons. 
Mrs.  Campbell  Hall,  T.,  Hall. 
Mrs.  Cooker,  H.P.,  Cocker. 
Mrs.   Conway  Jones,   H.T.,   A.    Dickson   and 
Sons. 

Mrs.    David  Jardine,   H.T.,  A.   Dickson  and 

Sons. 

Mrs.  David  M'Kee,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Mrs.  Dudley  Cross, 

T.,W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Mrs.  E.  J.  Holland, 

H.T.,  McGredy. 

Mrs.  Edward  Maw- 
ley,  T.,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Mrs.  F.  W.  Flight, 
Mult. ,  Cutbush. 

Mrs.  F.  W.  Sand- 
ford,  H.P.,  Curtis. 

Mrs.  Frank  Cant, 
H.P.,  F.  Cant. 

Mrs.  G.  W.  Ker- 
shaw, H.T.,  A.  Dick- 
son and  Sons. 

Mrs.  George  Dick- 
son, H.P.,  Bennett. 

Mrs.  Harold 
Brooklebank,  H.T., 
A.  Diokson  and 
Sons. 

Mrs.  Harry  Turner, 
H.P.,  Laxton. 

Mrs.  Hubert 
Taylor,  T. ,  A.  Dick- 
son and  Sons. 

Mrs.  Isabelle  Mil- 
ner,  H.T.,  W.  Paul 
and  Son. 

Mrs.  James  Wilson, 
T.,  A.  Diokson  and 
Sons. 

Mrs.     Jas.    Craig, 
H.T.,  H.  Diokson. 
,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 
Bennett. 


Mrs.  John  Bateman,  H.T. 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  H.P., 


(To  be  continued.) 


P 


THE   KITCHEN   GARDEN. 

BLACK  SCAB  OF  POTATOES. 
OTATO  black  scab,  or  warty  disease 
of  Potato,  as  it  had  better  be  called, 
is  a  disease  of  quite  recent  intro- 
duction. At  this  season  of  the  year, 
when  the  tubers  are  being  dug,  some 
may  be  found  having  warty  excres- 
cences upon  them,  looking  somewhat  like  a  dark- 
coloured  Cauliflower.  When  the  attack  is  very 
bad,  the  whole  tuber  may  be  covered  with  this 
growth  and  exhibit  the  appearance  so  well 
depicted  on  the  right  of  the  illustration  ;  but 
if  the  attack  has  not  proceeded  so  far,  smaller 
warts,  perhaps  easily  detachable  from  the  tubers, 
will  be  found.  Occasionally  similar  growths  are 
found  on  the  lower  parts  of  the  stem  as  well  as 
on  the  tubers.  Microscopic  examination  of  the 
tissues  of  the  warts  reveals  the  presence  of  round, 
brown  spores,  usually  one  in  each  of  the  cells, 
but  sometimes  two.  The  fungus,  of  which  these 
spores  are  the  resting  bodies,  has  been  called 
Chrysophlyctis  endobiotica.  In  the  spring  the 
spore  germinates  and  gives  rise  to  large  numbers 
of  cells  capable  of  motion,  and  if  Potatoes  are 
near,  the  tender  tissues  of  the  eyes  will  fall 
an  easy  prey  to  them.  After  one  of  these  motile 
cells  enters  a  cell  of  the  Potato  it  rapidly 
enlarges  at  the  expense  of  the  protoplasm  and 


soon  produces  many  more  of  the  motile  cells, 
each  capable  of  infecting  fresh  cells  of  the  host. 
At  the  same  time  the  Potato  cells  are  greatly 
stimulated  and  multiply  very  rapidly,  so  that  in 
a  short  time  the  warty,  Cauliflower-like  growth 
is  produced.  In  the  autumn  the  resting  spores 
are  again  produced. 

If  pieces  of  these  diseased  Potatoes  are  left  in 
the  soil,  the  spores  will  remain  and  prove  a  source 
of  infection  in  the  next  spring,  and  there  is 
evidence  to  show  that  they  will  remain  capable 
of  infecting  Potatoes  for  five  years. 

The  disease  is  spreading  steadily  over  the 
country,  as  diseased  seed  is  distributed,  and  no 
efforts  should  be  spared  to  check  its  spread,  as  it 
is  likely  to  cause  very  serious  loss  in  the  most 
important  cottage  garden  crop  of  this  country. 
The  Board  of  Agriculture  has  scheduled  the 
disease,  and  anyone  finding  it  among  his  Potatoes 
is  required,  under  a  penalty,  to  notify  the  fact 
to  the  Board,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  everyone 
will  co-operate  with  the  Board  in  its  efforts  to 
stamp  out  the  disease. 

It  would  be  foolish,  of  course,  to  plant 
diseased  tubers,  or  to  plant  tubers  in  ground 
where  they  have  been  previously  affected.  It 
would  be  unwise  to  plant  tubers,  however 
healthy  they  may  appear,  from  a  garden  where 
the  disease  has  occurred.  Scientist. 


PLANTING  SPRING  CABBAGES  IN 

AUTUMN. 
The  amateur  frequently  has  what  one  may 
term  bad  luck  with  the  autumn  plants,  and  at 
times  various  reasons  are  given  for  the  scarcity 
which  follows  in  the  spring.  I  am  aware  it  is 
not  a  pleasant  matter  to  write  on  failures, 
but  if  by  so  doing  they  can  be  avoided  I  shall 
feel  justified.  I  have  heard  the  seed  blamed,  but 
in  these  days  those  who  know  would  smile  at 
such  an  assertion.  I  feel  sure,  after  a  long 
experience,  that  ninety-nine  out  of  every  hundred 
seeds  germinate  if  obtained  from  a  good  house. 
Another  point  is  variety,  but  in  these  days  there 
are  no  difficulties  in  this  respect ;  there  are  some 
splendid  early  forms  to  select  from.  Some  forty 
years  ago  the  old  Nonpareil  type  was  everyone's  ■ 
Cabbage,  though  by  no  means  reliable.  I  have 
seen  75  per  cent,  go  to  seed.  This  is  a  thing  of  the 
past,  as  we  have  some  splendid  stocks  now — early, 
small  and  just  the  size  for  a  private  garden. 

Many  growers,  especially  amateurs,  plant 
seedling  Cabbages  in  land  recently  dug  and 
heavily  manured.  I  am  averse  to  this  mode  of 
culture.  For  many  years  it  was  my  aim  to  get 
the  spring  Cabbages  as  early  as  possible,  not  in 
dozens,  but  by  the  thousand,  and  to  be  on  the 
right  side  I  adopted  quite  the  reverse  mode  of 
culture,  as  I  found  out  there  were  severe  losses 
by  planting  in  land  newly  dug  and  in  a  soft  or 
porous  condition.  I  admit  the  plants  placed  in 
such  land  made  splendid  growth  at  the  start,  but 
this  was  really  a  fault,  and  a  fault  one  does  not 
care  to  admit.  The  plant,  say,  in  October,  and 
at  times  well  into  November,  made  a  free  soft 
growth,  which  in  a  severe  winter  was  damaged 
badly  and  took  many  weeks  to  get  into  a  free- 
growing  state  again,  so  that  valuable  time 
was  lost,  and  instead  of  cutting  Cabbages  in 
March,  at  a  time  this  vegetable  is  more  valuable, 
it  was  often  May  before  the  plants  were  ready. 
I  am  aware  the  Cabbage  requires  food,  but  not 
in  a  crude  state  when  the  seedling  has  to  pass  over 
a  most  difficult  period  of  its  growth. 

The  best  time  to  feed,  I  have  found  from  close 
observation,  is  early  in  the  year,  just  as  growth 
begins,  and  here  such  foods  as  nitrates,  liquid 
manures,  guano  or  similar  foods  will  encourage 
the  growth  at  the  right  moment.  Of  course,  a 
great  deal  depends  upon  the  land,  if  light  or 
heavy,  wet  or  otherwise,  as  regards  choice  of 
foods,  but  even  then  I  would  advise  more  atten- 
tion to  planting  and  position ;  an  open,  well- 
drained  site  should  be  chosen  free  of  trees,  and, 
if  possible,  land  that  has  not  borne  a  Brassica 
crop  for  a  couple  of  years.  G.  Wvthes. 


October  23,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN 


517 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN. 

SALVIA    AEGENTEA. 

I  SEND  you  a  photograph  of  the  beautiful 
Salvia  argeutea  grown  in  the  garden  of 
St.  Martin's  House,  Canterbury.  From 
seed  sown  in  the  spring  of  1908  it  flowered 
in  June,  1909,  growing  to  a  height  of 
4  feet,  and  remained  in  beauty  for  many 
weeks.  The  flowers  are  pure  white,  and  the 
lower  leaves  are  covered  with  long,  silvery 
white  hairs,  from  which  the  name  of  the  plant 
is  taken.  Though  not  one  of  the  brilliant- 
coloured  Salvias,  it  is  certainly  one  of  the  most 
effective  in  the  flower  garden,  as  the  growth  is 
branching,  so  that  three  or  four  plants  are 
enough  to  form  a  splendid  clump,  which  can  be 
seen  from  a  long  distance.  This  Salvia  is  a 
native  of  Southern  Europe  and  is  quite  hardy, 
but  the  best  -  shaped  plants  are  obtained  by 
treating  it  as  a  biennial.  Salvia  braoteata  is  a 
plant  of  very  similar  growth,  with  mauve  and 
white  flowers  and  pinky  bracts,  the  whole  efifect 
of  the  plant  being  silvery  pink.  S.  R. 


SWEET  PEA  CHAT. 
Autumn  Sowing. — Having  put  the  pros  and 
cons  of  the  ease  for  autumn  sowing  before  my 
readers  in  a  previous  article,  we 
may  now  advantageously  turn  to 
the  actual  process  of  seed-sowing. 
In  regard  to  outdoor  management 
little  need  be  said,  since  the  culti- 
vator will  already  have  completed 
the  preparation  of  the  land  and, 
in  many  instances,  may  possibly 
have  got  the  seeds  in.  If  the 
sowing  has  not  been  done,  one 
might  emphasise  the  necessity  of 
setting  the  seeds  in  shallow,  fiat- 
bottomed  trenches,  always  making 
the  base  firm  and  level  prior  to 
putting  in  the  seeds.  In  a  later 
issue  reference  will  be  made  to  one 
or  two  details  of  autumn  culture 
that  go  to  ensure  success. 

Turning  now  to  the  far  more 
important  phase  of  the  question — 
pot  sowing,  the  first  thing  is  to 
prepare  a  soil  mixture,  and  herein 
lies  practically  no  trouble,  for  the 
ordinary  three  parts  of  sound 
fibrous  loam  and  one  part  of  refuse 
manure,  with  a  sufficient  addition 
of  sharp  sand  to  keep  the  compost 
quite  open,  will  answer  admirably. 
One  could,  of  course,  make  up  a 
far  more  elaborate  list  of  ingre- 
dients, but  it  is  certain  that  no 
better  plants  would  be  grown  as  a 
result  of  it,  and  therefore  the 
simple  compost  ought  to  be  chosen 
as  yielding  all  that  is  required  and 
being  at  the  same  time  convenient 
and  cheap.  The  mixing  should  be 
thorough,  and  if  it  can  be  allowed 
to  lie  upon  the  bench  for  a  week 
or  so  prior  to  use,  so  much  the 
better. 

The  next  important  considera- 
tion must  be  the  pots.     Whatever 
size    is    decided   upon    must    be 
perfectly  clean.     To  employ  dirty 
pots    is    not    only    untidy    and, 
consequently,    not    fit   for  the    garden,   but   it 
increases    the    difficulty    of    transferring    from 
one  pot  to  another,  or  from  the  pot  direct  to 
the  open   quarters,   for   no    other   reason   than 
that  the  mould  adheres  closely  to  the  dirt  on 
the  inner  sides  of  the  pot  and  the  ball  of  soil 
and  roots  will  not  come  freely  away.     There  is 
no  doubt  that    quite  as   good  results  may  be 
achieved  by  using  the  popular  3-inch  pot  as  by 
the  aid  of  the  6-inch  ;  but  when  the  sowing  is 
done  in  the  autumn  the  plants  will  assuredly 


have  to  be  moved  from  the  small  into  larger  pots 
very  early  in  the  year,  and  this  is  a  trouble  to 
which  some  people  do  not  care  to  go.  These 
pots  are  too  shallow  to  properly  accommodate 
the  roots  until  April,  when  the  plants  have  to  be 
put  out  in  the  open,  and  the  result  is  they  mat 
round  and  beneath  the  ball,  and  materially 
increase  the  difficulty  of  moving  the  plants  with- 
out a  check  ;  in  fact,  this  condition  is  bound  to 
cause  a  more  or  less  serious  stoppage.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  6-inoh  pots  are  requisitioned, 
and  five  seeds  are  placed  in  each,  the  seedlings 
can  be  grown  steadily  forward,  and  there  will 
always  be  an  abundance  of  space  in  which  the 
roots  can  ramify.  However,  this  is  a  point  that 
each  grower  must  decide  for  himself,  according  to 
his  convenience  and,  t^  supplies  of  pots  at 
command. 

If  the  3-inoh  are  chosen,  I  should  certainly 
urge  the  desirability,  even  at  some  additional 
trouble,  of  having  only  one  seed  in  each, 
as  it  gives  the  young  plants  a  far  better  chance 
of  making  satisfactory  progress.  After  crocking 
the  pots  sufficient  compost  should  be  put  in 
to  come  within  IJ  inches,  or  thereabouts,  of  the 
rim,  and  it  must  be  pressed  down  until  it  is 
moderately  firm  and  level.  Then  place  the  seed 
or  seeds,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  cover  with 
half  an  inch  or  three-quarters  of  an  inch  of  fine 
soil.     It  is  imperative    that   the  soil  shall  be 


firm  base — fine  cinders  answer  splendidly — in  a 
cold  frame,  and  neither  then  nor  at  any  other 
period  to  the  day  of  planting  out  must  any 
attempt  be  made  at  coddling,  or  the  results  will 
be  the  reverse  of  satisfactory.  Spbncer. 


THE 


SALVIA  ARGENTEA  IN   THE  GARDEN   AT^ST.    MARTIN'S  HOUSE,   CANTERBURY. 

Eleasantly  moist  at  the  time  of  use,  and  it  must 
e  maintained  in  that  condition  all  along. 
One  of  the  worst  troubles  of  those  who  sow  in 
pots  is  the  partiality  of  mice  for  the  seeds,  and 
many  serious  losses  are  suffered  season  after 
season.  An  easy  and,  at  the  same  time,  effectual 
method  of  stopping  this  pest  is  to  put  a  small 
square  of  glass  on  the  top  of  each  pot  up  to  the 
time  when  the  seedlings  appear,  as  the  danger 
will  then  come  from  other  directions.  Directly 
the  seeds  are  sown  the  pots  should  be  stood  on  a 


BLUE  BULBS  OF  SPRING. 
I  FORGET  the  name  of  the  exact  figure  of  speech 
which  I  might  plead  to  justify  the  above  title, 
for,  of  course,  it  is  not  the  bulb  that  is  blue ; 
but  to  put  it  in  a  sort  of  "House  that  Jack 
Built "  way,  it  is  the  flower  that  is  blue  which 
the  plant  bears,  which  the  bulb  produces.  I  am 
also  going  to  plead  guilty  to  a  "  terminological 
inexactitude  "  which  results  from  the  use  of  the 
word  blue,  although  I  might  very  well  plead 
that,  being  a  bit  of  a  gardener,  I  am  only  using 
gardeners'  lingo  in  heading  a  list  "blue"  that 
contains  "  Blue  bells."  There  are,  compara- 
tively speaking,  very  few  real  blue  flowers.  I 
have  seen  several  examples  of  that  very  modern 
development,  "the  Blue  Garden,"  but  I  have 
never  seen  one  where  something  was  not 
admitted  which  impartial  eyes  would  be  bound 
to  say  was  not  exactly  that  colour.  However, 
spring  is  a  fortunate  season  in  respect  of  blue 
flowers.  In  bulbs  alone  we  have  Scilla  sibirioa, 
several  Musoaris,  Chionodoxas,  Scillas  campanu- 
lata  and  nutans,  and  that  exceedingly  rare  and 
scarce  bulb  Tecophilaea  cyano- 
crocus,  the  Chilian  Crocus.  This 
last  is  only  hardy  in  warm  posi- 
tions and  light  soil  in  the  most 
southern  parts  of  England,  but  it 
may  be  grown  in  pots  in  cold 
frames  or  cool  greenhouses.  It 
is  a  long  time  since  I  grew  any, 
but  one  of  the  conditions  for 
successful  culture  was  to  keep 
the  dormant  corms  on  the  dry 
side  until  well  rooted  and  to  be 
careful  to  exclude  frost.  They 
should  be  planted  with  about 
2  inches  of  soil  over  them. 
Scilla  sibirica. 
This  is  the  well-known  blue 
Squill.  No  flower  is  much  better 
known  than  this  old  inhabitant  of 
our  gardens.  It  is  quite  hardy, 
and  may  be  left  undisturbed  for  a 
very  long  time.  It  looks  particu- 
larly well  when  used  as  a  broad 
edging  along  a  walk,  or  planted 
in  large  clumps  in  the  front  of  a 
herbaceous  border. 

The  Chionodoxas. 
The  Glory  of  the  Snow  is  one 
of  our  earliest  and  loveliest  spring 
flowers.     To  be  seen  at  its  best  it 
must  be  grown  in  masses  and  the 
bulbs  must  be  left  undisturbed. 
It  seems  to  be  a  plant  that  dis- 
likes removal,  for  newly  planted 
bulbs  are  never  very  strong  the 
first  time  they  bloom.     I  mention 
this,  for  anyone  would    be    dis- 
appointed with  his  purchase  who, 
having    seen    an    old-established 
colony    in     a    friend's     garden, 
expected  his  own  newly  planted 
bulbs   to  do  as  well.     It  is  very 
easily    increased    from    seed,    of 
which  a  plentiful  crop  may  be 
harvested  each  year,   or,   better 
still,    allowed    to    fall    on    the 
ground   and  take  its  chance.       If    no  further 
notice  is  taken  of  them,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
years  the  beds  will  become  full  of  little  bulbs, 
and  their  pleasing  variations  in  form  and  colour 
are  most  interesting.      Two  oblong  beds  in  my 
garden  are  full  of  them,  and  I  dig  and  prepare 
them  in  the  ordinary  way  whenever  it  is  neces- 
sary, but  it  makes  no  difference   to  the  early 
carpet  of  blue  and  white  which  covers  them  each 
spring.     There  are  several  varieties  to  be  found 
in    Qatalogues,     but    for    massing    as    I    have 


518 


THE    GARDEN. 


(October  2;;,  1909. 


suggested  above  Luoili:i'  (blue  with  white  centre) 
and  sardensia  (a  beautiful  gentian  blue)  are  the 
most  satisfactory.  Gigantea  is  a  much  more 
open  -  shaped  flower,  and  in  colour  decidedly 
inclining  to  mauve.  It  is  not  so  floriferous  as 
either  of  the  other  two  varieties. 

The  Grape  Hyacinth. 

In  everything  association  is  a  wonderful  factor 
of  interest.     There  are  certain  things  which  act 
for  us  all  as  releasers  of  the  pent-up  machinery 
of    thought.      I  never   see  an    ordinary   Grape 
Hyacinth    (Muscari 
botryoides)    without 
thinking  of  my  old  gar- 
dener, who  would  show 
visitors    "  The     Sacra- 
ments" (Cyclamen)  and 
the    "Grey     Parsons" 
(Grape   Hyacinths). 
And  then  the  wheels  go 
round,  and  I  am  for  a 
time  living  in  the  old 
days  again  or  taking  an 
old-fashioned     journey 
in  the  clouds.      There 
are     numerous     kinds, 
and,  unfortunately  for 
us  gardeners,  the  nam- 
ing of  them  is  so  much 
a  botanical  puzzle  that 
we   never    quite   know 
what  we  will  get  if  we 
leave  the  beaten  track 
of    popular     varieties ; 
hence  it  is  well  to  be 
careful  when  ordering. 
Azureus     (called     also 
Hyacinthus  azureus)  is 
the  earliest.    It  flowers 
while  we   still   expect 
snow,  and  I  have  often 
seen    the     little     low- 
growing  heads  of  pale 
blue  standing  up  out  of 
a  thin  coating  of  snow. 
Muscari    botryoides    is 
the  old  man  of  the  race. 
It     has     been     an    in- 
habitant of  our  gardens 
for    very  many  years. 
Now,    however,    it    is 
eclipsed    by  the    won- 
derful variety  Heavenly 
Blue.   It  is  an  introduc- 
tion   from    Trebizond, 
and    is     another    real 
gentian  blue  flower.    It 
begins     to     bloom     in 
April  a  little  after  the 
old     botryoides,     and 
remains    in   perfection 
for  a  long  time.     It  is 
exceedingly  floriferous, 
and   as  it  increases 
rapidly  and  very  small 
bulbs  can   be    counted 
on   to  throw  a  flower- 
spike,  it  soon  makes  an 
effective  mass.      It    is 
deliciously  scented.     If 
a  scent  can  have  a  rela- 
tion I  would  say  it  must 
be  a  first  cousin  to  the 
old  Clove.     The  Starch  Hyacinth  (Muscari  para- 
doxum)  has  considerably  bigger  heads  of  flowers 
of  the  darkest  blue  ;  in  fact,  it  is  too  dark  to  be 
very  efiective,  but  I  mention  it  because  it  is  so 
distinct,  and  a  few  clumps  in  a  mixed  border  are 
a    decided    change    from    the    other    Musoaris. 
Another  very  lovely  form  is  one  that  I  have 
under  the  name  of  atlanticum.     It  has  a  much 
more  pointed  spike  than  Heavenly  Blue,  and  in 
colour  it  is  of   a  richer  and  purer-looking  blue 
than  even  that  beautiful  variety.     It  flowers, 
too,   somewhat  later.      The  last  variety  that  I 
pi^st  refer  to  is  Heldreichi,  which  is  distin^ished 


by  its  paler  colouring  and  the  thin  line  of  white 
which  margins  the  mouths  of  the  individual  bells. 

SCILLAS  CAMPANULATA   AND   NUTANS. 

These  are  what  are  popularly  called  Wood 
Hyacinths.  Nutans  is  the  one  which  carpets  our 
woods  in  early  summer  or  late  spring.  Its  bells 
are  arranged  more  or  less  on  one  side  of  the 
spike,  and  as  the  unopened  flowers  are  arched 
over,  the  inflorescence  has  a  sort  of  fanciful 
resemblance    to    a    bishop's  pastoral  Etas'.      In 


old  types  and  kinds.  In  conclusion,  although 
not  strictly  germane  to  the  subject,  I  would  like 
to  say  that  I  have  found  them  most  satisfactory 
in  pots.  They  may  easily  be  forced  into  bloom 
in  March  and  early  April.  Joseph  Jacob. 


HELENIUM    RIVERSLEA    BEAUTY. 
This   is   a   handsome  new    variety  of    a    well- 
known  family  of  autumn-flowering  plants,  and  is 

^      _  said  to  be  the  result  of  a  cross  between  a  variety 

campanulata  the  bells  are  larger,  and  they  are    of  H.  a«tumnale  and  H.  grandicephalum  striatum. 

The     ray    florets     are 
_.  1  iTj^/,  bright  yellow  and  the 

—  -■    /^J.  disc  is    rich    brownish 

y  ■/\~..  crimson,  the  two  colours 

-      iiwfl^i  V-  providing   a    flower  of 

great  beauty.  It  was 
shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society 
on  September  14  by 
Mr.  Maurice  Priohard, 
Christchurch,  Hants, 
when  it  received  an 
award  of  merit. 


COLCHICUM 
BORNMUELLERI. 

Lovers  of  the  Meadow 
Saffron  who  are  not  un- 
willing to  give  a  good 
price  for  the  sake  of 
owning  the  best  of  these 
useful  flowers  should 
not  omit  to  secure  Col- 
chioum  Bornmuelleri, 
one  of  the  best  of  the 
large-flowered  Meadow 
Saffrons.  It  comes  of  a 
rather  pale  lilac,  with 
a  white  centre  of  con- 
siderable size,  but 
passes  off  a  good  purple. 
The  leaves,  which  are 
produced  in  spring,  are 
broad  and  rather  hand- 
some, but  the  main 
beauty  and  value  of  the 
plant  lies  in  the  fine 
flowers,  which  come  in 
September  and  October. 
They  are  dwarfer  than 
those  of  the  largest 
varieties  of  C.  specio- 
sum,  but  are  as  fine  in 
their  appearance,  and  a 
big  group  in  the  border 
or  on  the  grass  is  very 
beautiful.  Deep  plant- 
ing should  be  practised 
with  these  large  Mea- 
dow Saffrons,  and  from 
B  inches  to  9  inches  of 
soil  above  the  crowns 
will  not  be  too  much. 
S.  A. 


spray   of  the  new   HELENIUM    RIVERSLEA  BEAUTY.      {Natural  size.) 


arranged  all  round  the  stem.  There  are  to-day 
many  beautiful  new  shades,  and  we  can  have  not 
only  blues,  but  also  several  shades  of  rose  or 
lilac  rose  and  white.  Excelsior  is  an  exceedingly 
fine  pale  blue  form  of  this  useful  plant,  and  Rose 
Queen  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  rosy  shaded  ones. 
They  are  a  very  hardy  race,  and  may  be  said  to 
grow  anywhere  and  to  take  care  of  themselves 
under  almost  any  circumstances.  In  bare,  shady 
places  and  in  thin  woodlands  they  are  of  the 
greatest  value.  They  are  decidedly  effective  in 
herbaceous  borders,  and  the  best  kinds  should  be 
procured — they  are  such  great  advances  on  the 


EREMURUS 

ROBUSTUS. 
The  Eremurus  shown 
in  the  illustration  is  the 
tallest  and  most  strik- 
ing of  this  tribe.  This  is  about  the  best  time 
to  move  them.  It  is  not  advisable  to  leave  them 
in  the  same  place  more  than  three  years,  and 
where  soils  are  inclined  to  be  wet  it  is  better  to 
lift  them  annually,  clearing  away  the  old  decayed 
root  below  the  new  one,  a  fresh  root  being 
formed  every  year.  It  is  beneficial  to  keep  the 
plants  out  of  the  ground  for  two  or  three  weeks 
or  even  more,  so  as  to  entirely  dry  them,  and 
replant  in  fresh  material.  They  do  very  well  in 
soil  of  a  heavy  nature  if  the  bed  has  been  well 
trenched  to  a  depth  of  2  feet  to  3  feet,  the 
bottom  filled  with  broken  crocks  and  any  rough 


October  23,  1909] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


519 


material  to  keep  the  soil  well  open  beneath  the 
plant  and  some  decayed  manure  and  bone-meal 
mixed  with  it.  They  are  partial  to  lime  and  old 
mortar  rubbish,  which  should  be  mixed  with  the 
soil  at  the  time  of  planting.  I  should  say  that 
they  do  not  suffer  in  the  least  from  annual  lifting, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  when  growth  is  com- 
pleted the  plant  is  dormant  for  a  month  or  six 
weeks  :  but  when  soil  and  situation  are  suitable, 
they  may  well  be  left  two  or  three  years.  All 
lovers  of  the  Eremurus  owe  a  debt  of  gratitude  to 
the  late  Sir  Michael  Foster  for  the  interest  he 
took  in  these  plants  and  the  many  fine  forms  he 
raised.  Some  of  these  are  in  the  hands  of  Mr. 
R.  W.  Wallace  of  Colchester,  and  among  them 
the  fine  Sir  Michael,  which  last  July  received  a 
certificate  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Among  some  of  recent  introduction  Warei  is 
the  best,  being  a  deep  orange  copper  colour. 
There  are  some  beautiful  hybrids  of  a  deep 
shade  of  salmon  between  Bungeii  and  robustus. 
There  are  also  forms  of  Olgss  quite  deep  in 
colour. 

Stratfield  Saye  Rectory.      F.  Page-Roberts. 


COLOURED     PLATE, 

PLATB    1385. 


PANSIES   AND    THEIR   CULTUKE. 

THE   Pansy,  or  Heart's-ease,  has  for  a 
great  many  years  been  a   favourite 
in  English  gardens,  and  although  the 
older  forma   do  not   now   find  much 
favour,  the  newer  varieties  are  very 
extensively  grown.     This  is  not  sur- 
prising considering  how  easily  the  plants  may 
be  raised  from   seeds  and  subsequently  grown 
on  and  flowered  over  a  long  period. 

Two  seasons  of  the  year  are  usually  selected 
for  sowing  seeds,  namely,  early  spring  and  the 
end  of  June  or  during  July.  At  the  first-named 
period  seed  is  sown  in  well-drained  boxes  or  pans 
of  rather  light  soil  and  placed  in  a  warm  frame 
or  greenhouse  near  the  glass,  and  as  soon  as  the 
seedlings  are  an  inch  or  so  high  they  are  pricked 
o£f  2  inches  or  3  inches  apart  into  other  boxes  or 
pans  filled  with  soil  containing  a  good  proportion 
of  flaky  leaf-soil  or  thoroughly  decayed  manure, 
either  of  these  substances  inducing  the  formation 
of  fibrous  roots.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants 
have  become  well  established  in  these  receptacles 
a  process  of  hardening  off  must  be  resorted  to, 
gradually  providing  them  with  more  air  and  a 
cooler  temperature.  When  finally  hardened, 
which  should  be  about  the  middle  or  end  of 
April,  the  plants  may  be  transferred  to  the  beds 
or  border,  a  well-worked,  moderately  rich  and 
rather  moist  situation  suiting  them  best. 

The  midsummer  or  July  sowing  is  usually 
made  in  a  prepared  bed  outdoors,  choosing  for 
this  a  cool  but  not  overshadowed  position.  If 
sown  thinly  in  drills  9  inches  apart  and  sub- 
sequently thinned  to  .3  inches  asunder  in  the 
rows,  the  thinnings  being  pricked  out  in  other 
rows,  the  seedlings  will  form  nice  sturdy  plants 
by  the  middle  or  end  of  October,  when  they  may 
be  planted  in  their  permanent  quarters  or,  if 
the  natural  soil  is  wet  and  cold,  planted  so  as  to 
nearly  but  not  quite  touch  each  other  in  a  cold 
frame  for  the  winter,  placing  them  in  the  open 
beds  about  the  middle  of  March.  The  advan- 
tage of  securing  plants  from  a  midsummer 
sowing  is  that  they  commence  to  flower  earlier 
in  the  year  than  those  sown  in  the  spring. 

Naturally,  where  seedling  Pansies  are  to  be 
grown,  a  good  strain  such  as  that  depicted  in  the 
accompanying  coloured  plate  must  be  selected. 
The  flowers  there  depicted  are  Messrs.  Watkins 
and  Simpson's  Matchless  strain,  and  the  coloured 
photograph  from  which  the  plate  was  prepared 
was  of  the  flowers  kindly  supplied  by  this  firm. 
It  will  be  noted  that  the  flowers  of  this  strain 
are  of  excellent  shape  and  comprise  a  wide  range 
of  beautiful  colours, 


Ni 


THE    FERN    GARDEN. 

HART'S-TONGUES  FRILLED  AND 
TASSELLED. 
OST  people  are  familiar  with  the 
common  Hart's-tongue  Fern  (Scolo- 
pendrium  vulgare),  which  in  many 
places,  and  more  especially  in  our 
Western  Counties,  can  be  seen 
dotting  old  walls,  growing  between 
the  chinks  of  the  bricks  or  stones,  with  its  strap- 
shaped  fronds  a  few  inches  long,  or  tenanting  the 
hedges  with  much  bolder  growths  of,  it  may  be,  a 
couple  of  feet,  or  even  more,  in  length.  We 
have  in  Great  Britain  no  other  Fern  like  it :  its 
dark  green  fronds  consist  of  a  short  stalk 
surmounted  by  a  plain,  smooth-edged,  undivided 
frond,  commencing  at  the  base  with  two  semi- 
circular lobes,  and  after  forming  an  even  strap 
for  some  distance,  tapering  somewhat  abruptly  to 
a  bluntish  point.  At  the  back  of  the  fronds 
when  mature  we  shall  find  two  rows  of  brown 
sausage-shaped  spore  heaps,  arranged  herring- 
bone   fashion,    at    short    distances,    somewhat 


frilled   or    crispum    section,    undoubtedly    the 
prettiest  of  all. 

In  this  section,  instead  of  a  flat  strap  we  find 
the  frond  to  be  widened  and  deeply  frilled,  so 
that  a  well-developed  specimen  forms  one  of  the 
handsomest  foliage  plants  imaginable.  Owing  to 
this  extra  development  the  thorough-bred  oris- 
pums  are  quite  barren  of  spores,  all  their  energy 
running  to  leafage.  There  are,  however,  some 
orispums  which  are  fertile,  but  the  edges  are 
always  irregular,  and  although  very  charming 
plants  in  the  young  state,  they  lack  perfection  as 
adults.  There  are  quite  a  dozen  true  crispums 
recognised  as  distinct  by  having  longer  stalks, 
wider  fronds,  deeper  frills  and  laxer  habit  of 
growth,  but  all  are  good.  Not  content  with 
these  frills.  Nature  has  gone  even  further  still  in 
some  eases  and  added  fringes  (crispum  fimbriatum), 
while  probably  by  accidental  crosses  between 
tasselled  forms  and  fertile  crispums  there  are 
forms  which  are  tasselled,  friUed  and  fringed  to 
boot.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  all  the  true 
crispums  have  been  found  wild,  and  it  is  re- 
corded that  Colonel  Jones,  one  of  the  chief 
pioneers  in  British  Fern  culture,  found  sixteen 


A   NOBLE  FLOWER  :   EREMtJRUS  ROBHSTnS  IN  THE  REV.    F.    PAGE-ROBERTS  S  GARDEN. 


resembling  the  legs  of  a  centipede,  whence  the 
botanical  name,  from  scolopendra,  a  centipede. 
In  places  where  this  Fern  is  abundant  we  shall 
probably  not  hunt  for  long  without  finding 
plants  of  it  with  the  fronds  more  or  less  forked 
or  fingered  at  their  tips,  and  if  all  the  fronds,  not 
merely  one  or  two,  be  so  characterised,  this 
forms  a  constant  variety  known  ae  S.  v.  lobatum. 
This,  however,  gives  but  a  very  faint  idea  of 
what  this  simple  Fern  is  capable  of  doing  in  the 
"  sport "  line,  since  it  is  quite  safe  to  say  that  no 
other  Fern  in  the  world  has  managed  to  vary  so 
much  and  in  so  many  different  ways  ;  its  distinct 
varieties,  indeed,  may  be  numbered  by  the 
hundred.  Then  there  are  scores  in  which  the 
forking  is  carried  to  such  an  extent  that  the 
fronds  are  more  or  less  heavily  tasselled ;  they 
may  also  be  branched  lower  down,  forming 
numerous  tassels  per  frond,  the  fronds  may  be 
narrowed,  the  smooth  edges  may  be  more  or  less 
deeply  out,  the  surface  may  be  roughened  and 
ridged  in  many  ways,  the  basal  lobes  may  be 
much  lengthened  and  even  tasselled  ;  and  apart 
from  all  these  variations,  several  of  which  may 
be  combined  in  one  plant,  there  is  the  beautiful 


or  seventeen  separate^plants  in  one  lane  in  South 
Wales,  which  means,  since  theyl'are  all  barren, 
that  some  apparently  common  Hart's-tongue  in 
the  locality  had  the  faculty  of  producing 
crispums  through  its  spores.  S.  v.  crispum 
Drummondise,  found  in  Cornwall,  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  natural  sports,  since  it  bears 
two  sorts  of  fronds — one  kind  very  long  and 
narrow,  smooth  edged  and  frilled,  with  a  broad, 
spreading  tassel,  and  the  other  resembling  these 
in  general  outline,  but  with  deeply  fringed  and 
frilled  fronds,  the  fringes  yielding  young  plants 
by  aposporey  when  cut  off  and  layered.  S.  v.  c. 
Drummondife  superbum  raised  from  this  has  all 
the  fronds  true  to  the  fringed  type.  The  tasselled 
section  of  Hart's-tongue  are  very  beautiful 
in  a  different  fashion.  As  the  species  is 
entirely  evergreen,  the  Hart's-tongue  is  an 
ideal  Fern  for  cold  or  cool  conservatories, 
retaining  its  fronds  in  good  condition  well 
into  the  second  season.  It  does  well  in  ordinary 
good  garden  soil,  and  likes  a  little  old  mortar 
rubbish  added.  Given  this  and  a  little  care  in 
watering,  no  foliage  plant  will  better  repay  the 
cultivator,  Chas.  T.  Drubrt. 


520 


THE     GARDEN. 


lOCTOBBR   23,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— As  nearly  all  the 
summer-flowering  plants  have  been 
cleared  away  from  the  beds  in  the 
flower  garden,  some  effort  ought  to 
be  made  to  fill  the  borders  again  even 
where  bulbs  are  not  grown.  Small 
evergreens  in  flower-pots  are  capital  plants  for 
the  purpose.     It  does  not    matter    very  much 


I. — BnLBS  OF  HYACINTHS  AND  TILIPS  IN 
POSITION  BEFOKE  BEING  STTRKOUNDED 
WITH  SOIL. 

what  kinds  are  employed,  as  they  are  all  suitable 
for  the  filling  of  the  beds  if  they  are  small  and 
compact.  Nice  Euonymuses,  Auoubas,  Laurus- 
tinuaes,  Weigelas,  Veronicas,  small  conifers  and 
similar  subjects  will  do.  The  pots  must  be 
buried  so  that  the  rims  are  slightly  covered  with 
soil.  Beds  may  be  filled  with  a  mixed  collection 
or  with  separate  kinds  and  varieties.  At  this 
season  of  the  year  the  paths  soon  become  sticky 
with  fallen  leaves  if  the  latter  are  allowed  to 
remain  on  them  manydays  without  beingswept  up. 
Not  only  is  it  unpleasant  to  walk  upon  the  damp 
leaves,  but  through  the  pressure  of  the  boots  and 
the  wheelbarrows  many  leaves  get  crushed  and 
stain  the  gravel  very  badly.  Remove  every  bit 
of  decaying  rubbish  from  the  garden  forthwith, 
and  either  put  it  in  a  heap  and  sprinkle  dry  lime 
on  it  or  reduce  it  to  ashes  in  a  slow  fire.  Lawns 
must  not  be  swept  while  they  are  in  a  saturated 
state,  neither  should  they  be  rolled.  Both  the 
sweeping  and  the  rolling  are  more  pleasantly  and 
effectively  done  when  the  grass  is  dry,  and  the 
worm-casts  will  crumble  before  the  broom  and 
under  the  roller.  If  very  wet,  the  surface  is 
rolled  into  waves. 

VegadbU  Garden. — Having  collected  sufficient 
stable  manure  wherewith  to  make  up  a  Mush- 
room-bed, the  work  must  be  done  without  any 
delay  so  as  to  conserve  the  heating  qualities  of 
the  material.  The  bed  may  be  constructed  in 
any  shed,  or  even  in  the  open  air ;  but  I  will  con- 
fine these  hints  to  indoor  beds.  The  cultivator 
may  decide  to  have  the  first  bed  S  feet  long,  4  feet 
wide  and  14  inches  deep.  This  is  a  very  useful 
size.  In  the  first  place,  spread  out  the  manure  in 
a  thin  layer  and  thoroughly  tread  it  down  ;  then 
put  on  another  layer  and  serve  it  the  same  ; 
treating  is  better  than  beating  with  a  mallet. 
When  the  bed  is  completed  and  the  temperature 
is  about  8.5°  on  the  decline,  put  in  the  lumps  of 
spawn  9  inches  asunder,  1  inch  deep,  and  then 
cover  with  sifted  loam  to  a  depth  of  rather  more 
than  1  inch.  Cover  the  bed  with  straw  1  foot 
thick  and  keep  the  shed  darkened.  Finish 
clearing  away  all  Asparagus  stems,  weeds  and 
other  foreign  matter  from  the  beds  and  trim  the 
edges,  taking  up  loose  soil  from  the  alleys  and 
spreading  it  on  the  surface  of  the  beds,  but  do 


not  put  on  any  manure  as  a  winter  dressing  until 
just  prior  to  the  coming  of  severe  frosts.  Where 
spring  Cabbages  have  died  make  good  the  losses 
without  delay. 

Fniit  Oarden. — There  is  much  to  be  done  at 
the  present  time  in  the  fruit  garden  —  root- 
pruning,  branch-pruning  and  the  ordering  of 
new  trees.  All  this  means  work  if  the  various 
operations  are  to  be  carried  out  thoroughly,  as 
they  should  be.  A  fruit  tree  that  makes  gross 
shoots  year  after  year,  casts  it  flowers  in  spring 
and  does  not  bear  fruits  satisfactorily,  needs 
root-pruning.  If  we  continue  to  prune  the 
branches  only  every  winter  we  aggravate  the 
evil,  making  the  trees  produce  still  stronger 
wood,  which  does  not  ripen  and  bear  healthy 
fruit-buds.  The  long,  rambling,  fibreless  roots 
must  be  checked,  and  the  present  is  a  good  time 
to  do  the  work.  The  whole,  or  only  half,  of  the 
tree  roots  may  be  pruned  this  season.  If  only 
half,  the  remainder  should  be  done  next  autumn. 
The  trenches  should  be  refilled  with  some  gritty 
material  mixed  with  the  original  soil  and  made 
very  firm.  Defer  the  planting  of  young  trees 
until  next  month,  but  make  out  a  list  of  those 
required  at  once  and  send  off  the  order  in  good 
time. 

Oreenhovse  and  Frames.  — Do  not  suddenly  de- 
prive plants  which  have  been  growing  in  the  open 
for  some  time  past  of  a  fair  amount  of  air  after 
they  are  placed  in  the  greenhouse  or  the  frame. 
If  so  a  sudden  check  will  result.  Even  when 
frosts  or  cold  winds  prevail  a  certain  amount  of 
fresh  air  can  be  admitted.  Auriculas  now 
growing  in  frames  should  be  placed  in  the  green- 
house if  the  latter  is  of  moderate  height  ;  if 
very  high,  then  keep  the  plants  in  the  frame, 
especially  if  the  latter  can  be  heated  at  will. 
Wash  all  soiled  pots  in  both  structures.         B. 


POTTING    HYACINTHS,    TULIPS    AND 
CROCUSES. 

Almost  every  beginner  in  plant  culture  thinks 
seriously  of  potting  up  a  number  of  bulbs  in  the 
autumn,  and  among  the  first  subjects  selected 
for  the  initial  experiment  are  Hyacinths,  Tulips 
and  Crocuses.  For  this  reason  I  am  giving 
special  consideration  to  these  subjects  in  the 
hope  of  meeting  the  needs  of  those  readers  who 
know  little  or  nothing  of  these  bulbous  plants. 
The  first  of  the  three  subjects  I  propose  to  deal 
with  is  the  Hyacinth.  As  a  subject  for  pot 
culture  it  is  one  of  the  best  for  a  beginner  to 
take  in  hand,  because,  given  ordinary  conditions 
of  culture,  good  results  are  bound  to  accrue.  A 
most  important  point  in  selecting  Hyacinth 
bulbs  is  to  secure  hard,  sound,  well-ripened 
specimens  that  are  heavy  for  their  size,  as  bulbs 
of  this  character  invariably  produce  fine  spikes 
of  blossoms.  Bulbs  that  are  of  a  soft  and  spongy 
nature  are  better  left  alone.  Another  point  of 
importance  is  to  do  the  potting  in  good  time. 
Hyacinths  do  better  when  given  a  long  season  of 
growth,  and  for  this  reason  they  should  be  potted 
up  as  early  as  convenient.  A  suitable  compost 
for  growing  Hyacinths  should  comprise  three 
parts  good  fibrous  loam,  one  part  leaf-mould  and 
one  part  thoroughly  decayed  manure.  To  the 
foregoing  add  a  sixth  part  of  coarse  silver  sand 
or  clean  road-grit.  The  loam  and  other  in- 
gredients should  be  chopped  up  roughly  and  the 
whole  then  be  well  mixed.  Keep  the  compost 
in  the  cool  under  cover  and  use  as  and  when 
required. 

Pots  5  inches  in  diameter  will  accommodate 
one  ordinary  bulb,  and  this  should  yield  good 
results.       Three    bulbs    in    a    pot  8  inches  in 


diameter  will  make  an  excellent  display,  and 
where  economy  in  greenhouse  space  has  to  be 
recognised  this  method  has  advantages.  The 
pots  and  potsherds  should  be  washed  quite  clean 
before  using,  and  the  crooks  should  be  used 
freely  and  be  disposed  carefully  in  the  bottom  of 
each  pot.  One  good  piece  of  potsherd  should 
cover  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  and 
smaller  pieces  be  arranged  neatly  over  this,  to 
be  covered  in  turn  with  some  of  the  rougher 
portions  of  the  compost  to  prevent  the  soil 
working  down  into  the  drainage.  Fill  in  suffi- 
cient soil  to  allow  the  point  of  the  bulb  to  be  just 
below  the  rim  of  the  pot.  When  adjusted  in 
position,  the  Hyacinth  bulb  should  present  an 
appearance  as  represented  on  the  left  of  Fig.  1. 
Fill  in  the  soil,  subsequently  making  this  mode- 
rately firm,  so  that  when  finished  the  neck  of 
the  bulb  shall  be  just  visible  above  the  soil, 
as  portrayed  on  the  right  of  Fig.  2.  When  the 
potting  operation  is  completed,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  cover  each  bulb  with  a  small  sixty  (3-inch) 
pot,  as  represented  on  the  right  of  Fig.  2.  All 
that  then  remains  to  be  done  is  to  stand  the  pots 
on  a  bed  of  sifted  coal-ashes  to  prevent  the 
ingress  of  worms  and,  subsequently,  cover  with 
coal-ashes,  sand,  Cocoanut  fibre  refuse,  spent 
Hops,  &c. ,  to  the  depth  of  ti  inches  or  8  inches. 

The  method  of  plunging  the  pots  is  aptly 
illustrated  in  Fig.  3.  Assuming  the  soil  is 
moderately  moist  when  the  bulbs  are  potted,  no 
water  will  be  required,  and  the  cool  conditions 
that  are  made  to  prevail  while  the  pots  are 
plunged  disposes  of  the  necessity  for  watering 
during  this  period.  The  plunging-beds  may  be 
made  up  outdoors  or  in  a  cold  frame,  at  the  will 
or  convenience  of  the  grower.  Within  six  weeks 
it  should  be  possible  to  remove  the  more  forward 
plants  to  the  cold  frame,  where  they  should  be 
gradually  inured  to  the  light,  and  later  on  be 
removed  to  the  conservatory  or  greenhouse  as 
required  to  maintain  the  display  there.  Keep 
the  soil  moist  after  the  plants  are  removed  from 
the  plunging  material,  or  the  roots  will  quickly 
suffer. 

Tulips  are  almost  as  indispensable  as  the 
Hyacinths  for  winter  and  spring  displays  under 


2.— THE  POT  ON  THE  LEFT  SHOWS  [THE  HYACINTH  ', 
AFTER  POTTINfi  WITH  THE  NECK  JUST  VISIBLE 
ABOVE  THE  SURFACE  SOIL.  ON  THE  RIGHT  IS 
SHOWN  THE  JtETHOD  OF  COVERING  THE  BULB 
WITH  A  S5IALL  POT  WHILE  IT  IS  STARTING  INTO 
GROWTH    IlURING    THB   PLUNGING  PERIOD. 

glass,  and  may  be  reared  with  comparative  ease 
in  cool  or  heated  glass  houses.  Soil  similar  to 
that  advised  for  Hyacinths  suits  the  Tulips  very 
well,  so  that  the  preparation  above  mentioned 
should  be  utilised  for  them.  See  that  the  pots 
are  well  drained,  and  place  three  or  four  bulbs 
in  a  5-inoh  pot  and  five  or  six  bulbs  in  a  6-ineh 
pot,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bulbs.  The 
latter  should   be  almost  buried,  and  in  placing 


October  23,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN 


521 


3.-  METHOD  OF  PLDNGIKG  THE  POTS  DUKINQ  THE 
EARLIER  ROOTING  PROCESS.  THE  POTS  ARE 
STOOD  ON  SIFTED  ASHES  AND  ARE  COVERED 
WITH  6  INCHES  TO  8  INCHES  OP  COCOANDT 
FIBRE  OR  ASHES. 

them  in  position  they  should  represent  an 
appearance  similar  to  that  seen  on  the  right  of 
Fig.  1.  Select  bulbs  for  pot  culture  of  even  size 
as  far  as  possible,  as  uniformity  in  size  may 
probably  ensure  their  blooming  together,  which, 
ot  course,  is  moat  desirable.  Plunge  the  pots  in 
material  similar  to  that  recommended  for 
Hyacinths,  and  remove  after  six  weeks  as  and 
when  needed.  Tulips  are  moisture-loving  plants, 
and  take  kindly  to  an  occasional  dose  of  weak 
liquid  manure.  Bedding  varieties  only  should 
be  forced. 

Seldom  are  the  Crocuses  grown  as  well  as  one 
would  like.  They  are  more  deserving  of  cul- 
ture in  pots  and  pans  than  is  generally  recognised. 
Six  corms  in  a  6-inoh  pot  will  make  an  interest- 
ing display.  I  prefer,  however,  to  grow 
twelve  corms  in  a  deep  seed-pan  10  inches  in 
diameter.  I  deprecate  crowding  the  bulbs 
together  as  many  growers  are  prone  to  do.  Use 
soil  as  advised  for  Hyacinths  and  Tulips,  and 
after  carefully  crooking  the  pans  (or  pots)  and 
partially  filling  these  with  the  prepared  compost, 
the  corms  should  be  adjusted  in  position  in  the 
pan,  as  represented  on  the  right  of  Fig.  4.  It 
will  be  observed  that  the  bulbs  are  not  unduly 
crowded,  but  ample  space  left  for  development. 
The  pan  on  the  left  of  the  same  illustration 
shows  the  soil  filled  in  and  the  pan  ready  for 
plunging.  When  well  furnished  with  roots  and 
growth  is  indicated  well  above  the  soil,  the  pans 
should  be  placed  in  the  cold  frame,  and  later  on 
in  the  conservatory  or  dwelling-house.  When 
the  flowering  season  has  concluded,  harden 
off  the  bulbs  and  plant  outdoors  for  future  dis- 
plays. D.  B.  C. 

THE  OUTDOOR   CULTURE   OF    TULIPS 
FOR   AMATEURS. 

The  Tulip  is  a  favourite  flower  with  many 
people,  yet  in  the  average  villa  suburban  garden 
we  find  such  poor  specimens  that  it  will  doubt- 
less be  of  interest  to  many  amateurs  to  know 
the  proper  method  of  cultivating  this  spring 
bulb.  Glancing  down  a  seedsman's  catalogue 
one  is  confronted  with  the  names  of  many  expen- 
sive varieties — expensive  on  account  of  their 
newness  or  originality — and  on  the  score  of 
expense,  with  its  increased  dissatisfaction  when 
failure  is  experienced,  the  writer  advises  the 
amateur  to  use  the  older,  cheaper  and  inexpensive 
varieties.  A  splendid  display  can  be  made  by 
these  bulbs  for  table  decoration,  as  the  flowers 
last  a  long  time  in  water  when  out. 

To  get  the  maximum  amount  of  show  in  the 
garden  from  Tulips,  a  proper  selection  of  varieties 
should  be  made.  Early  and  late  flowering 
single  and  double  bulbs  should  be  chosen,  so  that 
a  succession  of  flowers  can  be  had  from  April  to 
the  latter  end  of  May.  Exquisite  patches  of 
colour  can  be  had  from  such  bulbs  as  Chrysolora 
(yellow),  Pottebakker  (white),  Village  Maid  (rose 
and  white),  and  Keizerakroon  (crimson,  with 
yellow  edge). 


Tulips  are  quite  hardy  and  prosper  almost  as 
well  in  shade  as  sun,  although  for  first-class 
results  open  ground  should  be  selected.  The 
proper  time  for  planting  the  bulbs  is  from  early 
October  to  mid- November  if  the  weather  is  not 
too  wet.  If  the  amateur  is  thinking  of  growing 
some  Tulips,  the  ground  should  be  enriched  at 
the  present  time  with  a  sprinkling  of  bone-dust. 

Bulbs  as  a  whole  dislike  stagnant  soil,  and 
thus  the  worker  must  see  that  the  soil  is  well 
drained  either  naturally  or  artificially.  In 
planting  do  not  choose  a  wet  season,  and  if  the 
ground  is  soddened  from  recent  rains  it  is  best 
to  wait  a  week  or  ten  days  till  it  assumes  a 
natural  aspect.  With  respect  to  the  depth  of 
the  hole  necessary  for  receiving  the  bulb,  the 
size  of  the  bulb  should  be  taken  as  a  guide  and  a 
hole  made  in  the  soil  equal  to  twice  the  length 
of  it.  The  holes  should  not  be  made  less 
than  5  inches  apart,  thus  giving  the  bulbs  plenty 
of  scope  to  extend  their  roots  and  to  obtain  the 
nourishment  desired.  When  all  the  bulbs  have 
been  planted,  fill  up  the  holes  with  fine  soil  free 
from  stones  and  carefully  rake  over  the  top. 
The  next  stage  commences  when  the  growth  is 
pushing  through  the  soil,  when  the  ground 
should  be  carefully  loosened  with  the  hoe,  taking 
care  not  to  injure  the  young  shoots. 

When  Tulip  bulbs  have  been  planted  among 
other  flowers,  it  is  inconvenient  to  lift  them,  so 
that  they  must  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
ground.  If  at  all  practicable,  they  may  be  lifted 
each  June  (about  the  middle  of  the  month)  and 
then  carefully  dried  and  stored  in  a  dry  place. 

When  lifting  the  bulbs  it  will  be  noticed  that 
smaller  ones  have  made  their  appearance,  which 
can  be  planted  as  occasion  offers.  It  is  best  to 
plant  the  small  bulbs  in  a  separate  piece  of 
ground  by  themselves,  so  as  to  develop  into  fine 
flowering  bulbs  by  the  next  season.  G.  P. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


CLIMBERS  FOR  FRONT  OF  HOUSE. 
[In  Seply  to  "  F.  P.  3."]. 
The  position  being  very  warm  and  fully 
exposed  to  strong  southerly  gales,  it  would  be 
useless  to  grow  plants  which  make  long  and 
rambling  growths,  such  as  Roses,  Honeyauckle, 
Clematis,  or  the  Wistaria,  and  therefore  the 
selection  of  suitable  subjects  is  considerably 
narrowed  down  and  must  be  confined  to  plants 
of  more  dense  and  stubborn  growth. 

One  of  the  best  among  these  is  the  Evergreen 
Thorn,  Crataegus  Pyracantha.  It  bears  a  pro- 
fusion of  white  flowers  in  summer,  and  in  winter 
is  clothed  with  brilliant  red  berries. 

Chimonanthu?  fragrans,  the  Winter  Sweet, 
would  succeed  well.  This  is  a  deciduous  plant, 
the  flowers,  which  are  deliciously  sweet,  appear- 
ing before  the  leaves  in  February.  Ceanothus 
azureus  would  make  a  lovely  climber  for  such  a 
position.  It  is  of  compact  habit,  rather  slow  of 
growth,  but  it  would  reach  the  roof  in  time.  Its 
lovely  blue  flowers  are  borne  freely  in  summer, 
and  last  in  bloom  for  a  long  time.  The 
gold  or  silver  Ivy  would  succeed  in  such  a 
position,  and  would  in  a  few  years  furnish  a 
lovely  covering  for  the  wall ;  so  also  would  the 
gold  or  silver  Euonymus. 


4.— ON  THE  RIGHT  OF  THE  PICTURE  A  DOZEN  CROCUS 
CORMS  ARE  ARRANGED  EQUIDISTANT  IN  A 
10-INCH  SEED-PAN,  AND  ON  THE  LEFT  THE 
OORMS  ARE  COVERED  WITH  SOIL  PREPARATORV 
TO   BEING   PLDNOEli. 


Vacant  Flower-beds. — There  are  now  many 
flower-beds  from  which  the  summer  bedding 
plants  have  been  lifted.  In  some  instances  there 
is  no  attempt  made  to  fill  them  with  spring- 
flowering  subjects.  There  is,  however,  another 
way  of  making  the  garden  look  beautiful  in 
winter  and  springtime  without  filling  the  borders 
with  bulbs  and  other  kinds  of  spring  plants.  By 
making  a  judicious  selection  of  dwarf  shrubs 
growing  in  small  flower-pots  a  very  pretty  and 
attractive  garden  is  the  result.  Not  only  are 
bare  borders  unattractive,  even  when  they  are 
occasionally  raked  over,  but  birds,  cats  and  dogs 
give  much  trouble  constantly  by  scratching  the 
soil  up  and  scattering  some  of  it  on  the  lawn. 
Aucubas,  Euonymuses,  Hollies,  Ivies  and  similar 
plants  growing  in  pots  may  be  plunged  in  the 
beds — just  burying  the  rims  of  the  pots  under 
the  surface  of  the  soil — at  a  certain  distance 
apart  so  as  to  give  an  immediate  furnished  effect. 
The  shrubs  may  be  all  of  one  kind  for  certain 
beds,  or  they  may  be  mixed  according  to  the 
wish  of  the  owner.  Furthermore,  they  may  be 
of  varying  heights,  or  as  nearly  uniform  as 
possible. 

Window- BOXES. — These  receptacles  for  the 
summer  -  flowering  plants  may  be  treated  in 
exactly  the  same  way  as  the  flower-beds — that  is, 
filled  with  tiny  shrubs  in  small  pots.  Ivies 
should  be  largely  used  in  the  filling  of  the 
window-boxes,  as  they  are  so  very  effective  in 
such  positions,  and  there  is  much  variety.  The 
gold  and  the  silver  leaved  sorts,  as  well  as  the 
green  ones,  look  very  bright  and  warm  in  winter. 

Stobing  Plant  Roots. — The  roots  of  Dahlias, 
Cannas  and  the  bulbs  of  Gladioli  and  tubers  of 
Begonias  must  now  be  stored  for  the  winter 
season.  In  some  establishments  there  is  every 
convenience  for  the  safe  storing  of  these  different 
roots,  but  in  others  there  is  not  a  single  con- 
venience, and  so  some  safe  place  must  be  utilised 
for  the  purpose.  In  some  instances  early  frosts 
have  cut  down  the  foliage  of  Dahlias,  and  much 
care  must,  in  consequence,  be  taken  in  the  pre- 
paration of  the  affected  plants  before  the  roots 
are  stored.  In  the  first  place  it  will  be  necessary 
to  cut  off  the  main  stems  low  enough  down  to 
avoid  retaining  any  frozen  portion.  Usually  I 
leave  the  stems  about  1  foot  long,  but  if  frozen 
they  must  be  out  off  lower  down.  Every  leaf 
should  be  cut  off,  and  the  tubers  must  be  very 
gradually  dried  in  an  open  shed.  When  nicely 
dried  pack  the  tubers  in  dry  sand  or  dry  sifted 
soil  and  leaf-mould,  burying  the  crowns  about 
2  inches  deep.  Any  shed  will  do  if  it  be  frost- 
proof. A  loft  also  may  be  utilised  for  the  same 
purpose.  I  remember  one  cultivator  storing  his 
Dahlia  tubers  on  the  floor  of  a  loft  and  lightly 
covering  them  with  loose  straw  ;  a  severe  frost 
came,  and  the  icy  wind  blew  under  the  door  and 
along  the  floor  of  the  loft,  with  the  result  that 
all  the  tubers  were  frozen.  If  the  tubers  had 
been  surrounded  by  boards  placed  on  edge  and 
packed  in  dry  soil  or  sand,  in  addition  to  the 
covering  of  straw,  they  would  have  been  quite 
safe.  The  roots  of  Cannas  should  be  stored  in 
the  same  way.  The  tubers  of  Begonias  must  be 
dried  gradually  on  a  floor ;  a  quantity  of  soil 
adheres  to  the  fibres  attached  to  these  tubers, 
and  only  the  outer  portion  of  such  soil  should  be 
rubbed  off  before  the  tubers  are  neatly  laid 
in  single  layers  in  shallow  boxes  and  well  packed 
around  with  dry  sand.  When  the  tubers  are 
made  snug  in  the  boxes,  the  latter  should  be 
placed  in  a  spare  room.  In  frosty  weather  place 
some  sacks  on  them,  and  they  will  be  quite  safe. 
The  Gladiolus  corms  must  be  dried  and  then  put 
into  paper  bags,  and  the  latter  also  kept  in  a 
spare  room.  There  is  no  very  special  feature 
whereby  an  amateur  can  determine  the  correct 
names  of  the  various  bulbs  and  roots,  so  I 
advise  all  cultivators  to  see  that  the  true  names 
are  attached  before  the  work  of  storing  is 
finished.  Avon. 


522 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  23,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR   THE    SOUTH    AND  SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit    Department. 

GRAPES.  —  Should  the  weather 
keep  damp,  late  Grapes  hanging 
will  need  going  over  twice  weekly 
and  any  bad  berries  detected 
carefully  removed  to  prevent 
others  from  getting  mouldy  and 
spoiled.  Take  great  care  to  keep  the  atmosphere 
dry  by  applying  sufficient  heat  in  the  pipes  and 
admitting  air  on  all  favourable  occasions.  If  the 
Grapes  are  perfectly  ripe,  a  night  temperature  of 
55°  will  be  ample,  and  if  the  foliage  and  lateral 
growths  about  the  Vines  are  too  thick,  shorten 
them  a  little  so  as  to  admit  both  light  and  air. 
Those  who  are  about  to  plant  late  Grape  Vines 
should  see  that  the  drainage  is  perfect  and  the 
borders  made  up  of  the  best  material  obtainable. 
If  made  up  at  the  present  time,  it  will  allow  a 
reasonable  length  of  time  for  it  to  subside  before 
planting  in  February.  Lady  Downe's  and 
Alicante  are  varieties  mostly  grown  jfor  late  use, 
though  there  are  other  good  varieties  well 
deserving  of  room.  Mrs.  Pince  at  the  warmest 
end  of  the  house  will  usually  succeed,  and  Appley 
Towers  ought  to  be  more  extensively  grown  ;  in 
fact,  I  wonder  at  times  why  this  variety  has  not 
been  more  planted  for  late  use.  With  me  the 
bunches  and  berries  usually  attain  a  good  size, 
and  linish  and  keep  well.  Keep  Muscats  cool, 
but  avoid  cold  draughts,  otherwise  the  berries 
quickly  shrivel. 

Pot  Strawberry  Plants. — The  time  has  now 
arrived  when  these  must  be  protected  by  some 
means.  If  frame  room  is  available,  plunge  the 
pots  up  to  their  rims  in  leaves,  and  with  the 
protection  of  lights  in  frosty  or  in  very  wet 
weather  they  will  keep  splendidly.  In  the 
absence  of  frames,  plunge  the  pots  in  coal-ashes 
in  a  sheltered  position,  and  protect  when  required 
with  a  covering  of  Bracken  or  long  litter. 
Although  considered  hardy,  the  crowns  some- 
times get  badly  damaged  in  severe  weather  when 
grown  in  pots. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 

Adiantums. — For  supplying  early  fronds, 
plants  which  were  kept  on  the  dry  side  and 
which  were  cleared  of  their  old  fronds  may  now 
be  started  into  growth.  Keep  them  in  a  fairly 
warm  temperature  and  supply  water  in  a  slightly 
tepid  state.  After  the  new  fronds  have  fairly 
developed,  the  plants  may  be  stood  on  shelves 
near  the  light  to  get  somewhat  hardened. 

Caladiuma.  ^To  keep  these  sound  during  the 
winter  months  they  must  be  given  a  warm 
position.  A  good  plan  is  to  shake  the  tubers 
from  the  old  soil  and  place  them  in  boxes  or  pans 
among  dry  sand,  standing  the  boxes  at  the 
warm  end  of  a  stove  till  fresh  growth  begins  in 
spring,  when  they  may  be  transferred  to  pots. 

Gardenias. — Now  is  a  good  time  to  root  a 
fresh  batch  of  these.  If  cuttings  are  inserted  in 
a  sandy  compost  and  stood  in  the  propagating- 
frame  they  should  soon  root,  and  with  due  care 
develop  into  fine  specimens  during  next  summer. 
Keep  the  larger  plants  which  are  to  flower  in 
spring  clean  and  free  from  insects.  Be  careful 
in  watering,  and  feed  a  little  at  intervals  with 
Clay's  Manure. 

Poinsett  ias. — Keep  these  in  a  light  position 
near  the  glass  and  in  a  warm  temperature.  See 
that  the  roots  do  not  suffer  from  dryness,  and 
assist  the  plants  with  a  little  liquid  manure. 
When  potting,  do  not  give  them  too  large  a 
shift  ;  fine  heads  can  be  obtained  in  moderate- 
sized  pots  with  good  attention. 

H.  Mabkham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 

Wrotham  Park  Qardem,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower  Garden. 
Roses. — Where  planting  of  these  is  contem- 
plated the  soil  should  now  be  prepared  and  got 
into  position  while  yet  in  good  working  order, 
also  to  allow  of  its  partial  settlement  before  the 
plants  are  inserted  therein.  Soil  inclined  to 
heaviness  is  best  suited  to  the  Rose  family,  and 
if  that  cut  from  pasture  land  is  used,  the  same 
stacked  for  a  few  months  ensures  its  more  easy 
reduction  to  the  necessary  fineness.  The  latter 
state,  however,  is  not  very  important  providing 
sufficient  mould  is  obtained  for  placing  in  imme- 
diate contact  with  the  roots.  The  best  manure 
obtainable  should  be  used  and  be  well  incor- 
porated with  the  soil  before  making  up  the  beds  ; 
the  depth  of  these  as  a  rooting  medium  when 
finished  should  not  be  less  than  18  inches. 
Decorative  varieties  of  much  merit  are  Captain 
Hayward,  Frau  Karl  Drusohki,  General  Jacque- 
minot, Margaret  Dickson,  Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet, 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  Ulrich  Brunner,  Bessie 
Brown,  Caroline  Testout,  Betty,  La  France, 
Liberty,  Mme.  A.  Chatenay,  Viscountess  Folke- 
stone and  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  which  may  be 
relied  on,  as  dwarf  plants,  to  produce  blooms 
throughout  the  season. 

Bul}>8  for  Naturalisation. — This  style  of  em- 
bellishment of  the  pleasure  grounds  has 
deservedly  become  very  popular,  and  never 
before  could  such  great  variety  of  form  and 
colour  be  obtained  at  such  small  cost  as  at 
present.  Narcissi  in  variety  are  probably  the 
most  vilued  for  this,  for  planting  in  grass, 
among  trees,  or  upon  shrubbery  borders,  where 
they  hold  their  own  under  somewhat  adverse 
conditions  better  than  most.  Varieties  suitable 
for  the  purpose  are  numerous,  as  any  good  cata- 
logue will  show.  A  few  selected  at  random  are 
Ard  Righ,  obvallaris,  Barrii  eonspicuus.  Sir 
Watkin,  Horsfieldi,  Mrs.  Lingtry  and  other 
varieties  of  Leedsii ;  while  for  late  blooming 
the  Poet's  Narcissus,  N.  Posticus  and  its  double 
form  are  superb.  In  planting  in  turf  the  bulbs 
may  be  from  6  inches  to  12  inches  apart,  and 
should  be  placed  4  inches  below  the  surface. 
Holes  may  be  made  with  a  stout  iron  bar  of 
sufficient  depth  to  allow  of  a  handful  of  good 
soil  being  put  below  the  bulb  if  the  soil  is  of  poor 
quality  and  the  same  used  above,  after  which  the 
turf  may  be  trodden  quite  firm.  Aconites, 
Snowdrops  and  Crocuses,  which  flower  in  the 
order  named,  herald  the  approach  of  spring  and 
should  be  planted  wherever  space  can  be  found. 
Bulbs  Under  Glass. 

Continue  to  pot  and  box  Hyacinths,  Tulips 
and  other  bulbs  required  for  spring  flowering. 
If  Lily  of  the  Valley  ia  wanted  during  the  next 
four  months,  retarded  crowns  or  clumps  must  be 
requisitioned,  and  with  these,  if  flowers  are 
wanted  at  a  given  date,  three  weeks  at  least 
must  be  allowed  to  elapse  from  the  time  of 
placing  the  roots  in  heat. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Cabbages. — The  main  crop  for  next  summer's 
supply  of  heads  may  now  be  planted.  Ground 
in  good  heart  needs  but  little  preparation, 
hoeing  or  turning  the  surface  with  a  fork  being 
usually  sufficient,  as  the  firm  rootrun  below 
tends  to  sturdiness  in  the  plants.  Rsd  Cabbage, 
according  to  the  demand,  should  be  planted  at 
the  same  time. 

Cauliflower  seeds  sown  last  month  will  now 
have  produced  plants  large  enough  for  putting 
into  pots,  boxes  or  frames  for  the  winter,  while 
some  may  be  planted  under  the  shelter  of  a  wall 
or  house  upon  the  chance  of  their  surviving  the 
atmospheric  conditions  ahead. 

Cauliflowers  and  Early  Broccoli. — The  general 
absence  of  frost  has  resulted  in  an  abundance  of 
vegetables  being  now  available,  and  the  species 
named  are  turning  in  more  rapidly  than  could  be 
wished.  To  prevent  their  going  to  waste,  a 
spadeful  of  soil  may  be  taken  from   the    north 


side  of  each  plant  and  the  root  turned  into  this 
hollow  and  duly  covered  with  soil,  which  will 
check  growth  and  very  considerably  prolong  the 
supply  of  heads  now  ready  or  nearly  ready  for 
use.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn. ) 
Galloway  House,  Oarlieston,  Wigtonmshire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Cattleya  hardyana  The  Baron. — This  is  an 
exceedingly  beautiful  flower  and  worthy  of  the 
highest  honour.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  both 
pure,  dense  white,  and,  as  both  are  large, 
they  form  a  splendid  background  for  the  large 
and  brilliant  labellum,  which  is  bright  purple, 
with  cream  and  yellow  markings  in  the  throat. 
Shown  by  H.  S.  Goodson,  Esq.,  Fairlawn, 
Putney.     First-class  certificate. 

Cypripedium  Fair  Maude. — This  is  the  result 
of  a  cross  between  C.  fairieanum  and  C.  Maudise, 
the  flower  showing  unmistakable  signs  of  the  first- 
named  parent,  being,  however,  larger,  especially 
in  the  dorsal  sepal.  The  plant  shown  was  a  small 
one  and  was  carrying  only  one  flower.  Shown  by 
Mrs.  Norman  Cookson.     Award  of  merit. 

Dendrobium  Taurinum  Colmanii.  — This  is  a 
very  beautiful  and  distinct  variety  of  a  little- 
known  member  of  the  Dendrobium  family.  The 
sepals  are  small,  lance-shaped,  highly  reflexed 
and  of  a  dirty  creamy  white  hue.  The  petals 
are  long  and  very  narrow,  each  being  twisted 
into  a  sort  of  corkscrew  shape,  and  of  a  dull 
plum  colour.  The  labellum  is  comparatively 
large  and  creamy  white  at  the  base,  with  a 
decided  edging  of  pale  purple.  Shown  by  Sir 
Jeremiah  Colman,  Bart.,  Gatton  Park,  Reigate. 
Award  of  merit. 

Cirrhopetalum Fascinator .  — A  small  but  exceed- 
ingly interesting  member  of  this  family,  the 
labellum  being  extended  into  a  long,  cord-like 
appendage  that  renders  the  flower  a  very 
striking  object,  the  general  colour  being  dull 
crimson.  This  was  also  shown  by  Sir  Jeremiah 
Colman.     Award  of  merit. 

Cypripedium  Cynthia  Westonbirt  variety. — Tliis 
is  a  very  clear  -  coloured  and  pleasing  variety,  . 
the  large  dorsal  sepal  having  a  broad  margin  of 
pure  white,  below  which  comes  a  baud  of  purple 
dots,  and  finally  other  dots  of  dull  crimson  on  a 
greenish  ground.  The  sepals  and  petals  are 
of  the  usual  glossy  brownish  green  hue.  Shown 
bv  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  C.V.O.,  CLE., 
Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucester.  Award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  White  Queen. — A  very  hand- 
some pure  white  variety,  of  exhibition  standard 
and  much  excellence,  the  flower-heads  being  of 
exceptionally  large  proportions.  Shown  by 
Mr.  Silsbury,  Isle  of  Wight.     Award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  Mary  Farnsworth. — This  is 
also  of  large  exhibition  size,  and,  being  distinct 
in  colour,  will  doubtless  be  much  sought  after. 
The  colour  is  orange  buff  with  pale  fawn  shading. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Stredwiok  and  Son,  St. 
Leonards-on-Sea.     Award  of  merit. 

Rose  Claudius. — A  very  fine  Hybrid  Tea  with 
powerful  fragrance.  The  colour  is  rose,  shading 
from  pale  to  deep,  the  shapely  flowers  being 
produced  on  long  and  stiff  stems.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons,  Colchester. 
Award  of  merit. 

Aster  Lnistre. — A  rather  showy  and  good 
variety  of  distinct  rose  pink  shade,  the  flower- 
heads  showing  an  inclination  to  become  double. 
Shown  by  Mr.  E.  Beckett,  Aldenham  House 
Gardens,  Elstree.     Award  of  merit. 

Streptocarpus  {Strain). — The  Elstree  strain  of 
these  useful  flowers  is  well  known,  and  contains 
some  of  the  most  decisive  colours  we  have  seen 
in  conjunction  with  a  somewhat  compact  habit. 
The  white  and  the  varying  shades  of  blue  are  in 
every  way  excellent.  Shown  by  Mr.  E.  Beckett, 
Elstree.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  12th  inst. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


October  23,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


523 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


WE  invite  onr  readers  to  send  oa 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit, 
tree,  shrub.  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


Old  Irish  Apples. 

Mr.  W.  B.  Hartland,  Ard  Cairn,  Cork,  sends 
us  four  old  Irish  Apples,  three  of  which  we  find 
of  very  distinct  flavour.  Holland  Pippin  is  a 
cider  Apple  with  a  refreshing  Quince-like  flavour, 
Gibbon's  Russet  is  a  sweet,  solid-fleshed  variety 
known  in  some  districts  of  Ireland  as  Cherry 
Brandy  Apple,  and  Ard  Cairn  Russet  is  a  lovely 
russety  Pearmain  Apple  of  delicious  flavour  and 
solid,  juicy  flesh.  Molly  is  too  soft  and  tasteless 
for  our  palate,  though  it  is  very  sweet.  Mr. 
Hartland  writes:  "I  have  for  about  twelve 
years  been  trying  to  collect  in  the  Ard  Cairn 
Nurseries  the  Apples  under  the  names  I  knew 
them  in  my  grandfather's  garden  at  Belleview, 
Mallow,  in  this  county.  The  old  man  came 
from  Kew  Gardens  to  Ireland  at  the  end  of 
the  eighteenth  century,  and  he  knew  what 
good  Apples  were.  I  have  several,  and  send 
you  the  fruit  of  three.  If  you  look  into  John 
Scott's  and  some  other  pomologists'  works, 
you  will  see  much  diversity  of  opinion  as 
to  what  was  the  Holland  Pippin.  The  one  I 
send  you  was  known  by  that  name  in  Ireland 
when  Arthur  Young  visited  it,  and  I  am  sure 
when  he  spoke  about  the  Apples  he  saw  during 
his  tour  the  three  sorts  I  send  were  in  the  gardens 
of  Dromoland,  the  seat  of  Lord  Inchiquin.  The 
orchards  of  that  time  have  all  been  rooted  out 
for  the  last  twenty  years  ;  but  I  have  got  scions 
of  such  varieties  as  I  knew  seventy  years  since, 
and  we  have  them  here  now  in  trees  and  most 
interesting.  Try  them  all  and  tell  me  what  you 
think  of  them.  I  suppose  I  could  make  up  a 
collection  of  over  twenty  sorts  rescued  from  the 
dear  old  soil.  P.S. — I  also  send  you  a  fruit  of 
Ard  Cairn  Russet — another  find. " 


Double  Michaelmas  Daisy  E.  T.  Anderton. 
Messrs.  Child  and  Co.,  Edelweiss  Nurseries, 
Acocks  Green,  Birmingham,  send  flowers  of  this 
beautiful  novelty.  It  is  not  unlike  those  that 
have  recently  received  the  award  of  merit  from 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  as  it  belongs  to 
the  double-flowered  class  ;  at  least,  the  flowers 
are  almost  so,  only  a  small  portion  of  the  yellow 
centre  being  visible.  The  colour  is  soft  blue, 
and  the  stems  are  sturdy,  suggesting  that  they 
will  be  of  the  greatest  value  for  indoor  decora- 
tions, the  plant  reaching  to  a  height  of  about 
3  feet  6  inches.  We  shall  probably  in  the  near 
future  have  a  flood  of  Asters  of  this  type, 
but  those  we  have  already  seen  possess  great 
merit. 


Flowers  from  Duns. 

Dr.  McWatt  sends  from  Duns  a  most  interest- 
ing collection  of  autumn  flowers,  consisting  of 
the  late  -  flowering  Pa  via  maorostachya  and  a 
delightful  series  of  seedling  Delphiniums  of  ex- 
quisite shades  of  blue  for  the  most  part ;  also 
Blue  Primroses,  Cotoneaster  frigida,  with  its 
wealth  of  red  berries,  Starworts  or  perennial 
Asters,  blue  Veronicas,  Lythrum  elatum, 
Pyrethrums  and  the  Moon  Daisy  (Pyrethrum 
uliginosum).  We  commend  our  correspondent 
for  his  Delphiniums  ;  they  were  exceedingly  fine. 


ANSWERS 
TO    CORRESPONDENTS. 

RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Answers.— TAc  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  ivho  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  tvitk  that  object  loill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  cmnmunica- 
tions  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  tlie  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  busin£ss  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  reqxdred  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  m  the 
paper.  When  m&re  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Polygonum  baldschuanicum  {H. 

P.  B.). — We  do  not  understand  why  the  plant 
having  made  growth  has  not  flowered,  as  the  one 
is  governed  by  the  other,  unless  the  growth  is 
proportionately  weak  owing  to  the  plant  being 
over-shaded.  The  plant  appears  to  prefer  a 
sunny  place  and  a  light  soil,  and  quite  small 
plants  put  out  in  the  spring  of  this  year  have 
reached  nearly  10  feet  high  andflowered  profusely. 
Others  near  in  the  same  garden  put  out  two 
years  ago  have  been  wreathed  with  floweringsprays 
all  the  summer,  and  are  still  giving  many  useful 
ones.  Can  you  give  us  any  further  particulars 
if  the  above  hints  do  not  help  you  ? 

Herbaceous     bopdep     {Spectenum 

Ageiido). — When  you  have  removed  the  hedge 
and  trenched  the  ground  as  deeply  as  the  soil 
will  permit,  a  mixture  of  lime  and  soot  might  be 
given  at  once  low  down,  and  a  rather  heavy 
dressing  of  Apterite  or  similar  insect-destroying 
agent  nearer  the  surface,  forking  the  whole  well 
into  the  soil.  Organic  manure  of  some  kind 
should  have  been  added  ;  but  if  this  is  not  procur- 
able, work  in  at  two  different  levels  about  1  cwt.  of 
fine  bone-meal,  and  when  this  has  lain  together 
about  a  week  fork  over  the  whole  of  the  border 
soil  afresh  and  plant  at  once.  If  you  employ 
about  two  bushels  of  lime  and  mix  with 
three  bushels  of  soil,  this  will  not  harm  the 
occupants  of  the  border  in  any  way.  You 
should  obtain  fresh  lime  and,  placing  it  on  the 
ground,  cover  the  heap  with  soil.  In  an  hour 
or  two  the  lime  will  have  slaked  and,  being 
mixed  together,  may  be  applied  to  the  border 
forthwith  and  dug  in.  We  should  not  employ 
the  basic  slag  in  such  a  case.  If  you  were  apply- 
ing gas-lime  to  the  border,  it  would  be  necessary 
to  wait  a  while  before  planting,  and  it  would  be 
desirable  also  were  you  giving  a  very  heavy 
dressing  of  lime  alone.  If  you  can  give  the  time 
to  fork  the  border  over  twice  or  thrice,  the  birds 
would  assist  you  in  clearing  out  the  wireworm, 
and,  of  course,  you  would  destroy  all  you  came 
in  contact  with. 

Oaltonla  and  Fuchsias  (Braarf(7ates).—Bulba  of 
either  the  white-flowered  Galtonia  (Hyacinthua  candi- 
cans)  or  Gladioli,  or  both,  may  he  interspersed  with  your 
Fuchsias  for  another  season. 

Geraniums  In  winter  (J.  V.  3f.).— Geraniums 
cannot  be  kept  in  a  satisfactory  manner  throughout  the 
winter,  even  in  a  shed  or  room  from  which  frost  is  excluded, 
unless  they  are  potted,  or  what  is  equivalent  thereto,  the 
roots  laid  in  boxes  of  soil.  By  this  last  method  space 
is  considerably  economised,  but  as  a  set-ofif  they  need  in 
the  spring  to  be  potted  singly  before  the  weather  is  warm 
enough  for  them  to  be  placed  out  of  doors. 

V^atep  Lilies  In  tubs  (Mrs.  J.  H.  &).— These 
succeed  excellently  grown  in  this  way  when  planted  in 
rich  turfy  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  tubs  and  of  sufficient 
depth  to  cover  the  roots.  Paraffin  casks  cut  in  two  make 
excellent  receptacles  for  the  purpose.  The  inside  of  these 
should  be  flred  to  bum  out  the  paraffin  ;  but  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  burn  the  tub  itself  more  than  can  be  helped. 
If  it  is  intended  to  sink  the  tubs  in  the  ground,  the  out- 
side had  better  be  gas-tarred ;  but  if  they  are  to  stand  on  a 
walk  or  terrace,  they  may  be  painted  any  colour  desired. 
The  important  factor  to  provide  for  in  the  successful  growth 
of  these  Lilies  is,  no  doubt,  a  good  supply  of  fresh,  sweet 
and  clean  water.  It  must  be  kept  so  by  frequent  changing, 
er  success  is  not  possible.    This  is  not  a  very  arduous  or 


formidable  work.  All  that  is  needed  is  for  some  water  to 
be  taken  out,  say,  every  other  day  and  the  same  quantity 
of  fresh  added,  and  occasionally  to  empty  all  the  water 
and  fill  up  with  fresh.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  the 
large  stone  fountains.  It  will  not  do  to  depend  on  rain- 
water alone. 

Roses  and  Violas  (,Broaxigateis).—The  Violas  are 
auperflcial-rooting  subjects  and  do  not  affect  the  Roses 
to  the  same  extent  as  plants  whose  roota  are  of  a  more 
descending  nature  ;  still,  beda  of  Rosea  would  be  all  the 
better  without  the  Violas,  as  they  could  be  hoed  or  top- 
dreaaed  at  any  time.  In  the  case  of  standarda,  however, 
the  Violas  serve  to  take  off  the  otherwise  bare  appearance, 
which  ia  not  ao  noticeable  when  dwarfs  are  grown. 

Plants  for  pepgola  (J.  V.  M./.—As  you  give 
quite  a  long  liat  of  climomg  Roaes,  we  conclude  that  you 
desire  a  collection  of  plants  other  than  Rosea  for  your 
pergola.  The  following  are  all  well  auited  for  the  purpose  : 
Actinidia  cbinenaia,  Akebia  quinata,  Ariatolochia  Sipho, 
Celastrus  articulatus,  Clematis  Flammula,  C.  montana, 
C.  m.  rubena,  C.  Vitalba,  garden  varieties  of  Clematis, 
Vitis  Coignetise,  V.  flexuosa,  V.  Thunbergii,  V.  armata 
Veitchii,  Forsyttiia  suspensa,  Jasmiaum  officinale.  Labur- 
nums with  long  racemes  such  as  Voasii  and  Watererii, 
Lonicera  japonica,  L.  Periclymenum,  Wistaria  ainenaia, 
W.  s.  alba  and  W.  multijuga. 

Best  three  Gladioli  for  exhibition 
(Cttntab).—A  simple  question  moat  difficult  to  answer,  aa 
good  varieties  may  be  purchased  at  6d.  each  and  others  up 
to  10a.  6d.  If  you  really  want  high-priced  aorta,  we  will 
give  you  the  names  of  such  ;  but  with  so  great  a  range 
you  should  be  a  little  more  definite.  Some  good  Grasses 
are  Agrostia  nebuloaa,  A.  minutifolia,  Briza  maxima,  B. 
media,  B.  gracilis,  Eragrostia  elegana,  E.  maxima  and 
Penniaetum  longistylum.  These  are  annuala.  Molinia 
cserulea  variegata  and  Stipa  pennata  are  perennials.  Sow 
the  first  aet  thinly  in  pots  in  spring  ;  the  others  may  be 
grown  in  pots ;  but  all  should  be  plunged  and  well  cared 
(or  to  get  good  results.  If  you  do  not  wish  to  exhibit 
them  in  pota  aa  grown,  the  best  results  will  accrue  from 
planting  in  the  open  ground. 

Violet  plants  gone  wrongr  (Miss  M.  C.  E.  W.). 
We  have  grown  this  plant  moat  successfully  for  many 
years,  and  we  think  we  cannot  do  better  than  to  shortly 
recapitulate  our  method  of  culture  in  the  hope  that  its 
peruaal  may  be  of  aome  service  to  you.  In  the  first 
place,  the  strongest  offsets  of  the  old  plants  (in  frames  or 
in  the  open  ground)  are  taken  at  the  end  of  April  and 
planted  in  an  open  position  in  the  garden,  exposed  to  the 
sun  all  day,  with  not  too  much  shelter  from  any  points  of 
the  compass.  Those  offsets  only  are  chosen  which  have 
a  considerable  number  of  roots  attached,  the  more  the 
better.  These  are  planted  2J  feet  apart  in  the  row,  and  the 
same  distance  aeparatea  the  rows ;  thus  the  plants  are 
2i  feet  apart  each  way,  giving  them  abundance  of  room  to 
grow  during  summer.  The  ground  in  which  it  is  proposed 
to  plant  them  should  be  trenched  2i  feet  deep  and  a 
liberal  quantity  of  leaf-mould  added  to  the  soil  as  the 
trenching  proceeds.  The  summer  culture  consista  in 
frequent  hoeings  to  keep  down  weeds  and  to  aerate  the 
aoil,  occaaional  waterings  in  hot  weather,  and  also 
occasional  dustings  of  soot  to  keep  away  the  greatest 
enemy  of  the  Violet,  namely,  red  spider.  Mulch  the 
surface  of  the  aoil  over  the  roots  of  the  plants  with  a 
layer,  2  inches  deep,  of  rotten  manure  about  the  end  of 
May,  and  let  it  remain  on  until  the  plants  are  taken  up 
and  placed  in  frames  from  the  first  to  the  third  week  in 
October.  Constant  attention  is  given  to  taking  off  the 
runners  during  the  aummer.  Thia  treatment  has  yielded 
year  after  year  magnificent  plants,  many  of  them  2  feet 
through,  which  have  given  us  a  grand  succession  of  bloom 
from  October  to  the  end  of  April.  The  causes  of  failure  in 
your  case,  we  think,  lie  in  the  fact  of  your  having  grown 
your  plants  in  too  sheltered  a  position  and  in  having 
planted  them  too  close  together,  resulting  in  too  sappy 
and  soft  a  growth,  making  the  plants  an  easy  prey  to  red 
spider,  which,  we  think,  was  the  ultimate  cause  of  their 
collapse.  The  roots  are  healthy  and  in  excellent  con- 
dition. By  giving  the  plants  an  occasional  dusting  of  soot 
during  the  summer  an  attack  of  red  spider  is  prevented 
and  acts  as  a  alight  stimulant  as  well. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Pleached  walk  (^.).  —  Prunus  Pissardi 
would  answer  very  well  for  your  pleached  walk. 
Plant  the  trees  12  feet  apart,  and  remove  the 
lower  branches  until  the  heads  are  the  desired 
height  from  the  ground.  After  this  the  treatment 
will  consist  of  keeping  the  heads  pruned  into 
shape.  You  can  either  let  the  branches  meet 
overhead  and  keep  them  out  back  to  form  a 
series  of  arches,  or  you  may  have  a  continuous 
covering ;  the  former  would  be  the  better  method. 
The  sides  can  also  be  trimmed  to  form  arches  if 
you  like.  All  the  necessary  pruning  should  be 
done  in  summer,  so  that  spurry  growths  well  set 
with  flower-buds  are  formed.  The  trees  should 
be  planted  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen. 

Unhealthy  tpees  (B.  K.  if.).— in  our 
opinion  the  ill-health  of  the  Thuja  and  Welling- 
tonia  is  caused  by  the  lack  of  nourishment.  If 
so,  the  trees  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  a  liberal 
top-dressing  of    loam,    leaf-mould  and  decayed 


524 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[October  23,  1909. 


manure.  The  leaf-mould  and  manure  may  be 
mixed  together  and  applied  first ;  then  the  loam 
on  the  top  will  prevent  any  loose  particles 
blowing  about  and  becoming  unsightly.  A  good 
soaking  of  water  should  after  that  be  given  to 
the  trees,  as  in  all  probability  the  soil  around 
the  roots  is  too  dry,  and  the  water  will  not  only 
serve  to  moisten  the  soil,  but  will  also  carry 
down  particles  of  nourishment  from  the  top- 
dressing.  This  last  should  extend  as  far  as  the 
spread  of  the  branches,  and  if  the  soil  is  very 
hard  it  may  be  lightly  loosened  with  a  fork 
before  the  top-dressing  is  applied. 

ShPUbS     fOP     Torquay    (Qardmer).— 

The  following  will  be  found  to  constitute  a  good 
selection  of  lovely  flowering  shrubs  ;  colour  and 
time  of  flowering  are  given.  8pirai arguta,  white, 

5  feet  high,  April,  deciduous ;  Forsythia  suspensa, 
8  feet,  April,  yellow  ;  Hamamelis  mollis,  i  feet 
to  10  feet,  .Tanuary,  yellow  :  Berberis  steno- 
phylla.  evergreen,  6  feet  to  8  feet,  April,  yellow : 
B.  Darwinii,  evergreen,  6  feet  to  10  feet, 
April,  orange  ;    Pyrus  floribunda  atrosanguinea, 

6  feet  to  12  feet,  May,  deep  pink  ;  Prunus 
japonica  flore-pleno,  .5  feet,  white,  May ;  P. 
triloba  flore-pleno,  4  feet  to  fi  feet,  pink,  March  ; 
Ribes    sanguineum    var.    splendens,    4    feet    to 

5  feet,  April,  red  ;  Philadelphus  Lemoinei  var. 
ereotus,  3  feet  to  4  feet,  .Tune,  white  ;  Genista 
jetnensis,  6  feet  to  15  feet,  July,  yellow :  Magnolia 
stellata,  3  feet  to  10  feet,  white,  April ;  M. 
conspioua,  15  feet,  white,  March  and  April  ; 
M.  Lennei,  (i  feet  to  12  feet,  rosy  purple. 
May;  Lilacs  Charles  X.,  deep  lilac,  and  alba 
grandiflora,  white.  May  ;  Sty  rax  japonica,  6  feet 
to  15  feet,  July,  white  ;  Eucryphia  pinnatifolia, 
evergreen  or  sub-evergreen,  4  feet  to  15  feet, 
white,  .July  ;   and  Buddleia  variabilis  magnifica, 

6  feet  to  8  feet,  lilac,  summer  and  autumn.  In 
addition,  you  ean  plant  Rhododendrons,  Azaleas, 
Arbutus,  Heaths,  Zenobia  speeiosa  and  Kalmia 
latifolia,  if  such  things  thrive  in  your  district. 
For  the  choice  evergreens  you  require  the  follow- 
ing are  suitable :  Castanopsis  chrysophylla, 
Embothrium  coecineum,  Cupressus  lawsoniana 
var.  intertexta,  Sciadopitys  vertieillata,  Tsuga 
Sieboldii,  Abies  lowiana.  Thuya  gigantea  zsbrina 
or  aurea,  and  Arbutus  Andraohne.  If  you  have 
room  you  will  find  that  the  following  deciduous 
trees  will  do  well  in  your  climate :  Davidia 
involucrata,  Prunus  Pseudo  -  cerasus  Jas.  H. 
Veitoh,  Magnolia  macrophylla,  M.  Campbellii, 
Styrax  Obassia,  Paulownia  imperialis  and  Catalpa 
bignonioides. 

Lapch  shoot  diseased  {D.  H.  B.),— The  I.arch 
shoot  is  attacked  by  the  Larch  aphis  (Chermes  laricis). 
The  females  migrate  to  the  Silver  Fir  in  the  autumn,  and 
on  that  tree  produce  the  curious  cone-like  galls  which  are 
so  frequent  and  in  which  the  insect  passes  the  winter. 
These  should  be  removed  and  destroyed  as  far  as  possible, 
so  as  to  reduce  the  number  of  aphides  ready  to  reinfect 
the  Larch  in  the  next  spring.  The  small  Larches  may  be 
sprayed  with  a  nicotine  wash.  The  attack  not  only 
results  in  the  death  of  a  large  numbsr  of  the  leaves  of  the 
trees,  but  also  lays  the  plant  open  to  infection  through 
the  wounds  by  the  Larch  canker  fungus. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Roses  fop  unheated  grpeenhouse 

(Martha).--H>  is  somewhat  difficult  to  obtain 
Roses  that  bloom  continuously  and,  at  the  same 
time,  grow  freely  enough  to  quickly  cover  the 
span  roof  of  a  greenhouse.  The  best  Roses  for 
flowering  most  continuously  are  what  are  known 
as  the  non-climbing  varieties,  such  as  Marie  van 
Houtte,  Anna  Olivier,  Mme.  Hoste,  Lady 
Roberts,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Liberty,  Joseph 
Hill  and  Laurent  Carle.  These  would  give  you 
plenty  of  bloom  in  your  cold  greenhouse,  and  if 
you  could  grow  them  on  a  stage  in  large  pots 
and  train  growths  on  to  the  roof  they  would 
cover  the  latter  in  about  two  years,  providing 
it  is  not  unusually  lofty.  We  advise  you  to 
procure  extra-sized  pot-grown  plants  and  plant 
these  into  large  pots  or  small  tubs.  Should  you 
prefer  to  plant  in  the  ground,  then  you  would 
need  some  of  the  climbing  sorts,  and  a  good 
selection  would  be  Climbing  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant, 


Climbing  Caroline  Testout,  Climbing  Liberty, 
Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  Climbing  Frau  Karl 
Drusehki,  Bouquet  d'Or,  Frangois  Crousse  and 
Gustave  Regis. 

Rose  Mapechal  Niel  not  flowep- 

ing  [D.  A.  J.). — We  advise  you  to  trans- 
plant the  plant  to  a  border  at  the  foot  of  a 
south  or  west  wall.  This  superb  Rose  fre- 
quently refuses  to  ripen  its  wood  when  growing 
luxuriantly  in  the  open  garden,  but  against  a 
wall  or  close  fence  the  necessary  ripening  is 
assisted.  If  you  decide  to  do  as  we  suggest,  we 
advise  you  to  pinch  out  the  points  of  the 
long  growths  at  once.  This  would  the  better 
prepare  the  plant  for  removal.  Provide  a  good 
deeply-dug  hole  for  the  roots,  but  see  that  the 
latter  are  not  put  beneath  the  surface  soil  more 
than  G  inches.  By  deeply  digging  into  a  position 
at  once  and  adding  manure  and  bone-meal 
liberally,  the  soil  will  settle  down  by  the  end  of 
October,  when  you  could  plant  at  once. 

Roses  to  fopm  large  bushes  in 

Torquay  {Gardener).  —  Roses  which  are 
expected  to  grow  into  large  bushes  such  as  you 
desire  are  certainly  more  satisfactory  when 
grown  on  their  own  roots  than  when  grafted,  for 
when  a  group  becomes  dense  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  keep  suckers  cut  out,  and  if  they 
once  attain  the  upper  hand  the  Rose  quickly 
deteriorates.  For  general  purposes  you  will 
find  the  rambling  kinds  of  Rose  preferable  to 
the  Tea,  Hybrid  Tea,  and  Hybrid  Perpetual 
varieties  that  you  name,  for  many  of  them 
deteriorate  and  produce  very  inferior  blooms  if 
not  properly  pruned  and  cultivated  each  year. 
In  your  climate  it  is  quite  probable  that  (41oire 
de  Dijon  will  succeed  as  a  large  bush,  especiallj' 
if  you  out  the  old  wood  out  occasionally  in  spring. 
The  young  wood,  however,  must  be  left  un- 
touched. Good  varieties  for  growing  into  large 
bushes  are  Crimson  Rambler,  Alberic  Birbier, 
Dorothy  Perkins,  Helene,  Elise  Robichon,  Electra, 
Tea  Rambler,  Una  and  Hiawatha.  Such  sorts  as 
Alberic  Barbier,  Dorothy  Perkins  and  Hiawatha 
should  have  a  few  rough  stakes  provided  to  give 
them  a  start.  You  may  also  grow  the  various 
varieties  of  Rosa  rugosa  in  the  manner  you  wish. 
Two  verj'  good  semi-double,  large-flowered 
varieties  are  Mrs.  Anthony  Waterer  and  Blanc 
de  Coubert ;  the  former  has  red  flowers,  the  latter 
white.  Fellenberg  is  a  free-flowering  Rose  which 
forms  a  large  bush  ;  it  produces  clusters  of  red 
flowers  from  May  until  winter  sets  in.  It  is 
possible  that  in  the  mild  climate  of  Torquay  some 
of  the  varieties  you  mention  may  succeed,  but  it  is 
a  matter  for  experiment.  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
Frau  Karl  Drusehki  and  Mme.  Jules  Grolez 
would  be  worth  trying. 

Thplpa  damaging'  Roses  (C.  H.  If.).— These 
troublesome  little  insects  spoil  the  appearance  of  Kose 
foliage,  and  this  year  they  have  been  very  prevalent, 
especially  where  the  plants  are  in  dry  positions.  Copious 
syringings  with  cold  water  will  usually  check  the  pest, 
but  when  it  becomes  very  bad,  syringe  with  Tobacco  water 
made  as  follows;  Tobacco,  ^Ib. ;  soft  soap,  lib.;  soft 
water,  twelve  gallons.  Steep  the  Tobacco  in  water  for 
some  days  and  then  allow  it  to  simmer  over  a  tire  for  an 
hour  ;  pour  off  the  liquid  and  well  smash  the  leaves. 
Proceed  again  as  before  and  add  the  second  extract 
to  the  iirst,  when  all  may  be  mixed  with  the  dissolved 
soft  soap.  If  you  syringe  early  next  season,  we  think  you 
will  not  be  troubled  with  the  thrips.  A  dressing  of  soot 
to  the  surface  soil  would  be  advantageous.  The  Carnation 
layers  are  not  likely  to  be  affected  now  that  the  dry 
weather  has  gone.  In  their  case  soot  applied  to  the  soil 
would  also  be  an  advantage. 

THE    GREENHOUSE. 
Stpeptocappus     aftep   floweping 

(Constant  Reader). — After  the  flowering  season 
of  the  Streptooarpus  is  past  less  water  should  be 
given,  and  throughout  the  winter  the  plants 
must  be  kept  moderately  dry,  but  not  dried  off 
entirely,  as  they  do  not  form  tubers  like  many  of 
their  allies.  They  may  be  safely  wintered  in  a 
structure  with  a  minimum  temperature  of  45°, 
rising,  of  course,  10°  or  so  during  the  day. 
About  February  the  plants  should  be  shaken  out 
of  their  old  soil  and  repotted  in  a  mixture  of 


loam,  leaf-mould  and  sand.  If  put  in  a  some- 
what warmer  structure  they  will  soon  start  into 
growth.  To  assist  this  they  must  be  watered 
moderately  and  sprinkled  overhead  in  warm 
weather.  In  this  way  the  same  plants  can  be 
grown  year  after  year. 

Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums  duping 
the  winter  (Esther). — Unless  you  ean  put 
your  Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums  in  a  structure 
where  there  is  at  least  a  moderate  amount  of  light 
and,  where  at  the  same  time,  they  will  be  quite  safe 
from  frost,  we  fear  that  there  is  not  much  chance 
of  their  passing  through  the  winter  in  a  satis- 
factory manner.  With  regard  to  your  sugges- 
tion, there  are  sheds  and  sheds  ;  hence  it  is 
quite  impossible  for  us  to  know  what  your  idea 
is.  AVhatever  the  structure  is,  frost  must  be 
excluded  therefrom.  The  soil  during  the  winter 
should  be  kept  fairly  dry.  The  Agapanthus, 
too,  must  be  kept  free  from  frost,  but  in  its 
case  light  is  not  so  essential  as  for  the  Pelar- 
gonium. 

CUmbeps  fop  gpeenhouse  (-1"  Old  Header).— 
Many  conservatories  and  greenhouses  have  a  border  around 
the  outside  wall  in  which  to  plant  climbers,  and  as  the 
pipes  are  in  most  cases  situated  there,  the  border  is  then, 
of  course,  under  the  hot-water  pipes.  To  prepare  a 
border  for  climbing  plants,  the  soil  should  be  taken  out 
to  a  depth  of  2  feet,  and  (!  inches  of  brick  rubble 
placed  in  the  bottom  for  drainage  ;  then  fill  up  with  good 
soil.  Good  climbers  for  the  purpose  are :  flibbertia 
deutata,  yellow ;  Tacsonia  Van  Volxemii,  scarlet : 
Clematis  indivisa,  white;  and  Plumbago  capensis,  blue. 
Climbing  Roses  that  would  succeed  in  the  conservatory 
are  :  Climbing  Niphetos,  white  ;  Francjois  Crousse,  pale 
scarlet  crimson  ;  Mme.  Hector  Leuillot,  yellow,  shaded 
carmine;  and  Mme.  Moreau,  coppery  yellow.  The  climbing 
Rose  whose  white  flowers  are  borne  in  clusters  is  most 
probably  AimSe  Vibert.  The  latter  half  of  October  is, 
unless  special  conditions  prevail,  early  enough  to  trans- 
plant Roses.  W.  A.  Richardson  will  do  well  as  a  climoer 
indoors. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Pests  in  the  vegetable  gapden 

(Hopeful). — Judging  from  your  description  of  the 
great  damage  wrought  to  your  vegetables,  we 
were  inclined  to  conclude  that  the  enemy  must 
have  been  the  Cabbage  caterpillar  (Pieris 
brassicfe),  the  most  destructive  of  all  pests 
among  the  Cabbage  tribe  in  summer.  But  later 
on  you  say  that  there  was  no  trace  of  any  kind 
of  fly,  slugs  or  snails  to  be  seen.  Had  the  enemj' 
been  the  caterpillar  spoken  of,  you  could  not 
have  failed  to  have  found  this  out.  The  worst 
enemies  of  the  Cabbage  tribe  in  a  young  state 
are,  no  doubt,  the  slug  and  the  snail.  The  best 
way  to  protect  Cabbages  from  these  is  to  scatter 
quicklime  over  the  beds  or  rows  as  soon  as  the 
seeds  are  sown,  and  again  soon  after  the  young 
plants  appear  above  ground,  using  this  time  a 
little  soot  with  the  lime.  This  application,  we 
have  no  doubt,  will  also  have  the  effect  of  keep- 
ing your  enemy  at  bay,  whatever  it  may  be. 
Earwigs  are  very  destructive  to  ripening  fruit 
on  walls,  especially  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  but 
we  have  had  no  experience  of  any  serious  losses 
from  their  depredations  on  vegetables.  As  a  pre- 
caution against  similar  attacks  next  year,  we 
advise  you  to  trench  your  garden  to  the 
depth  of  2J  feet,  adding  good  rotten  manure  at 
the  rate  of  a  ton  to  every  40  square  yards,  and 
also  lowt.  of  quicklime,  spreading  the  latter 
over  the  soil  as  the  trenching  proceeds.  In 
addition  to  this  add  a  patent  preparation  named 
Kilogrub  to  the  top  spit  of  the  soil  only. 
This  is  an  excellent  article  for  ridding  the  soil  of 
all  these  pests,  and  may  be  had  of  all  seed 
merchants  advertising  with  us,  with  directions 
how  to  use. 

CauUfloweps  and  Cabbaires  g'powlngr  tall 

{Steelinetiii,  ShelfieUI}. — Your  plants  have  scarcely  had  time 
to  show  hearts  or  buttons  yet,  having  only  been  planted 
in  July.  The  position  in  your  garc^en,  being  shady,  is 
against  the  plants  doing  so  well  as  they  would  have  done 
bad  they  had  the  benefit  of  sunshine  most  of  the  day. 
Next  year,  if  you  try  to  grow  autumn  and  winter  vegetables 
again,  sow  the  seed  early  in  April  and  plant  out  the 
plants  in  the  middle  of  June.  This  will  give  tbeui  a  longer 
season  to  grow,  and  you  will  find  that  t)i«  result  will  ba 
better. 


Snpplnncut  to  THE  GARDEN,  October  22,rd,  1909. 


ANSY    "MATCHLESS" 

(WATKINS  &   SIMPSON). 
Two-thirds   natural  size. 


Hudson  &  Kearns.  Ltd..  Printcts.  T.nndnn.  f;  R 


^fey- 


^g^"^— - 


GARDEN. 


No.  1980.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


OCTOEBR  30,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


EVEESREEN      SHRUBS 

FOR  Winter  Beactv    525 
Notes  of  the  Week 
Forthcoming  events      526 
Miss     Willmott's 

garden     526 

Edinburgh  Koyal 

Botanic  Gardens  . .    526 
A  school  of  horticul- 
ture   526 

C  jbresfohdehoe 
New  early  Chrysan- 
themums   in    the 

North       526 

Hoses   at   Tunbridge 

Wells       627 

The  modern  Daffodil     527 
A  Tulip  border     . .     . .    527 
Rose  Qakden 
Notes    on    newer 

Roses.— VI 628 

British-raised  Koses      528 
Frtiit  Garden 
New    dessert   Apple 

St.  Everard    ..     ..     529 
Fruit  notes       . .     . .    629 
TREES  AHD  Shrubs 
Ceanothus  in  a  North 

London  garden     . .    530 
The  Siberian  Crab  ..    630 


Flower  Gardes 
Irises  edging  a  paved 

path 630 

National  Sweet  Pea 
Society's  classifica- 
tion of  Sweet  Peas 

for  1910 630 

Rodgersia  pinnata  . .    631 

GARSENIKS  FOR  BEaiNHERS 

Garden  work  week  by 
week        632 

Increasing  the 
shrubby  Veronicas     632 

Cyclamen. — Old  and 
young  corms    .     . .    633 

Azaleas  in  pots . .     . .    533 

The  Town  Gardeh  ..    533 

GASSENISa  OF  THE  WEEK 

For  the  South  and 
South  Midlands    . .     33i 

For  the  North  and 
North  Midland!  . .    531 

AnSWEES      TO     CORBE- 
SPOHDEHTS 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  534 

Trees  and  shrubs     . .  535 

Rose  garden,     . .     . .  536 

Greenhouse 535 

Fruit  garden     ..     ..  636 

Miscellaneous  ..     ..  636 


IliLrUSTRATIONS. 

A  border  of  Tulips  arranged  for  colour  effect      . .     . .  627 

Irises  edging  a  paved  pathway 628 

The  new  dessert  Apple  St.  Everard 629 

Ceanothus  Gloire  de  Versailles  in  a  Highgate  garden  530 

Rodgersia  pinnata  in  the  rock  garden  at  Kew    . .     . .  631 

Increasing  the  shrubby  Veronicas 532,  633 


EDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Bvery  department  ef  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
SABDEB,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  seiui  in  qtustums 
rekiMng  to  matters  up&n  vthieh  they  wish  advice  from 
eorr^petent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  vfishes  to  make 
the  "Anstoers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feattire,  arui,  when  queries  are  printed^  he  hopes  readers 
will  kiruUy  give  enquirers  the  benefit  oj  their  assistance. 
A.n  communications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  BOITOK  of  THE 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  (tf  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  ar\d  notes. 
Out  he  wQ.1  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
are  endcsed,  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
oontriimtwns.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  thut  the  price  required  f&r  reproduction  be 
plaiTtly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  wiU  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  berespormbleforthe  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  xiroof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  cm  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEH 
wis  dkme  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offlces:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden   W.C. 


EVERGREEN    SHRUBS     FOR 
WINTER     BEAUTY. 

How  TO  Grow  Them. 

CURING  the  winter,  when  there  are 
^  few,  if  any,  flowers  in  the  garden, 
I  the  value  of  evergreen  shrubs  can 
"  be  more  fully  appreciated .  Among 
the  numerous  kinds  available  there 
exists  the  utmost  diversity  in  regard  to  habit 
of  growth  and  colour,  size  and  shape  of  the 
foliage,  while,  as  some  compensation  for  the 
lack  of  flowers,  the  various  berry-bearing  shrubs 
are  at  their  best  and  give  a  welcome  touch  of 
colour  to  the  garden. 

When  making  a  selection  of  suitable  kinds,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  take  into  consideration  the 
questions  of  position,  soil  and  the  amount  of 
space  available.  Some  of  the  taller  -  growing 
shrubs  reach  almost  tree-like  proportions  after  a 
few  years'  growth,  rendering  them  unsuitable 
for  small  gardens  ;  others,  again,  not  being  quite 
hardy,  require  planting  in  the  most  sheltered 
positions.  Some  skill  and  cultural  knowledge  are 
also  requisite  in  grouping  the  various  species 
employed  in  a  natural  and  informal  way  and  in 
selecting  positions  best  suited  to  their  require- 
ments. 

One  of  the  most  important  points  is  to  allow 
ample  space  between  the  shrubs,  so  that  as 
growth  progresses  they  may  assume  their  natural 
shape  and  be  seen  to  the  best  advantage  without 
undue  thinning  or  cutting  back.  Many  of  the  com- 
paratively dwarf  shrubs  look  best  when  planted 
in  large  beds,  and  in  this  ease  a  bolder  and  better 
efiect  is  produced  if  each  bed  is  planted  with  a 
single  kind,  but  not  necessarily  confined  to  one 
variety.  Others  are  most  effective  when  dis- 
posed in  thinly  planted  groups,  while  many  are 
admirably  adapted  for  forming  single  specimens 
on  lawns  or  in  other  suitable  positions.  Con- 
trast may  be  afforded  by  the  use  of  shrubs  with 
variegated  foliage,  and  in  the  case  of  those  of 
somewhat  heavy  appearance  by  planting  others 
of  lighter  and  more  graceful  growth  at  a  little 
distance. 

The  best  time  for  planting  is  early  autumn 
(not  later  than  the  end  of  October),  as  the  roots 
are  then  enabled  to  get  well  hold  of  the  soil 
before  the  winter  ;  the  early  part  of  April  is  also 
a  good  time  and,  in  some  cases,  preferable  to 
autumn.  The  majority  of  evergreen  shrubs  are 
very  accommodating  in  their  requirements,  and 
will  flourish  in  any  good  loamy  soil  of  fair  depth  ; 
nevertheless,  it  is  advisable  to  give  them  a  good 
start  by  taking  out  holes  2  feet  deep  and  4  feet 
or  5  feet  wide,  and,  if  the  soil  be  of  poor  quality, 
by  adding  some  decomposed  manure  before 
replacing  it.     In  planting,  care  should  be  taken 


to  spread  out  the  roots  as  much  as  possible  and 
not  to  cover  the  stems  too  deeply.  After  plant- 
ing a  good  soaking  of  water  should  be  given, 
and  in  the  case  of  spring-planted  shrubs  an 
occasional  heavy  watering  should  be  given 
through  the  following  summer.  In  some  cases 
it  will  be  necessary  to  secure  the  shrubs  to  a 
stake  till  they  are  established,  to  prevent  swaying 
by  the  wind. 

Of  the  selection  of  evergreen  shrubs  here 
given  the  larger  number  are  perfectly  hardy  ; 
the  few  which  are  not  quite  hardy,  except  in 
the  extreme  South  and  West,  are  specified,  and 
these,  though  liable  to  be  disfigured  to  some 
extent  in  severe  weather,  are  rarely  killed  out- 
right even  in  the  hardest  winter.  The  most 
popular  and,  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful  of  all, 

The  Holly,  is  suitable  for  all  positions,  but  is 
seen  to  the  best  advantage  as  single  specimens  or  in 
thin  groups  where  its  graceful  pyramidal  outline 
can  be  viewed  from  all  points.  Planted  in  deep 
loamy  soil,  it  requires  very  little  attention 
beyond  the  occasional  slight  pruning  necessary  to 
keep  the  plants  in  shape  ;  in  poor,  gravelly  or 
sandy  soil  an  annual  mulching  of  manure  in 
spring  will  be  of  great  benefit.  The  Holly  is 
propagated  by  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings,  but 
garden  varieties  will  not  come  true  from  seeds, 
and  must  be  increased  by  either  of  the  two  last 
methods  or  by  grafting  on  the  common  kind. 
Of  the  green-leaved  forms  the  best  are  the 
common  Holly  (Ilex  Aquifelium)  and  its  varieties 
platyphylla,  Hsdginsii  and  Shepherdii,  the 
Camellia-leaved  Holly  (I.  camelliosfolia),  and 
the  Broad-leaved  Holly  (I.  latifolia).  The  latter 
is  not  quite  hardy  and  requires  a  sheltered 
position.  Of  those  with  variegated  foliage, 
good  varieties  are  Gold  Queen,  Silver  Queen, 
Hodginsii  aurea,  compacta  aurea  and  Hands- 
worth  New  Silver. 

Euonymus.  — These  shrubs  thrive  in  almost  any 
soil,  and  are  especially  useful  in  gardens  near 
the  sea.  Although  not  quite  hardy,  it  is  rarely 
that  they  are  seriously  injured  by  frost.  E. 
japonious  is  well  known,  and  its  gold  and  silver 
leaved  varieties  form  an  effective  contrast  with 
other  shrubs.  E.  japonieus  latifolius  has 
broader  leaves  and  is  of  taller  growth,  while  its 
effectiveness  is  increased  by  the  deep  red  seed- 
pods  and  bright  orange  fruits  borne  in  autumn 
and  winter.  The  Euonymus  is  easily  increased 
from  cuttings  of  the  young  wood. 

Aucuba. — Distinct  shrubs  with  large  green  or 
mottled  leaves  and  bright  red  berries,  which  are 
borne  on  the  female  plants.  One  or  two  male 
plants  should,  therefore,  be  planted  in  each  group 
to  ensure  a  good  show  of  these.  A  sheltered 
situation  should  be  given,  as  the  young  growth 
is  liable  to  be  crippled  by  frost. 


526 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  30,  1909. 


Laurel  (Cerasus  Laurooerasus). — This  is  too 
well  known  to  need  description,  and,  although 
useful  in  certain  positions,  is  often  too  freely 
used,  to  the  exclusion  of  better  shrubs.  The 
Portugal  Laurel  (C.  lusitanica)  has  smaller 
leaves  and  is  of  rounded,  symmetrical  growth, 
making  a  fine  lawn  shrub  in  sheltered  positions. 
Increased  by  cuttings. 

Laurustinus. — One  of  the  few  winter-flowering 
shrubs,  this  is  very  effective  either  in  the 
shrubbery  or  as  a  single  specimen.  It  succeeds 
best  in  light,  warm  soil,  and,  not  being  quite 
hardy,  requires  a  little  shelter  in  cold  districts. 
Cuttings  of  the  young  wood  root  readily  in  sandy 
soil. 

The  Strawberry  Tree  (Arbutus  Unedo). — This 
is  one  of  the  most  effective  of  evergreen  shrubs 
and  very  beautiful  when  covered  with  its  Straw- 
berry-like fruits  in  early  winter.  I  think  it  is 
hardier  than  is  generally  supposed  ;  here,  in  the 
coldest  part  of  Kent,  there  are  some  fine  speci- 
mens 15  feet  to  "20  feet  in  height  growing  in 
exposed  positions.  The  other  species  are  less 
hardy,  and  rarely  perfect  their  fruit  in  this 
country.  The  Arbutus  succeeds  in  peat  or 
light,  loamy  soil,  and  is  increased  by  means  of 
seeds  sown  in  spring. 

The  Fire  Thorn  (Crataegus  Pyracantha). — A 
handsome  shrub  with  small,  pale  green  leaves 
and  a  profusion  of  orange  sparlet  fruits  in  autumn 
and  winter.  It  is  quite  hardy  and  will  grow 
well  in  any  fairly  good  loamy  soil.  Propagated 
from  seeds  sown  in  spring. 

Berberis,  — The  most  effective  of  the  evergreen 
species  are  B.  stenophylla,  B.  Darwinii  and  B. 
Aquifolium,  the  leaves  of  the  latter  changing  to 
a  bronzy  purple  colour  in  autumn.  The 
Barberries  succeed  best  in  soil  made  up  of 
loam  and  leaf-mould,  and  are  increased  by  means 
of  seeds  or  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened  wood, 
which  may  be  rooted  in  a  cold  frame  in  autumn. 

Rhododendrmi. — The  various  species  are  very 
distinct  in  habit  of  growth  and  in  the  character 
of  the  foliage,  and  good  use  can  be  made  of  them 
for  winter  effect,  although  the  quality  of  the 
flowers  is  usually  the  first  consideration  in 
making  a  selection.  The  best  growth  is  made 
in  a  deep,  sandy  peat  soil,  but  they  also  do  well 
in  light  loam  if  free  from  lime.  In  addition  to 
the  varieties  of  R.  pontioum,  R.  catawbiense,  R. 
fulgens,  R.  Fortunei,  R.  ferrugineum  and  R. 
caucasicum  should  be  grown.  The  Rhododen- 
dron is  increased  by  layering  or  by  grafting  on 
R.  pontieum  or  other  species,  the  former  method 
being  preferable. 

Owiifers. — Among  the  slow-growing  or  less 
vigorous  kinds  will  be  found  many  suitable  for 
either  large  or  small  gardens,  and  their  shapely 
growth  and  distinct  appearance  make  them  of 
great  value  for  winter  effect,  either  as  single 
specimens  or  planted  very  thinly  in  groups. 
They  require  a  deep  and  rather  moist  soil,  and  a 
somewhat  sheltered  position  where  they  will  not 
be  disfigured  by  winter  gales.  Among  the  best 
kinds  for  gardens  are  the  Retiuosporas,  especi- 
ally such  as  R.  filifera,  R.  obtusa,  R.  plumosa 
and  its  golden  variety ;  Cryptomeria  elegans, 
Abies  brachyphylla,  Cupressus  lawsoniana  and 
its  many  varieties,  and  Thuja  oocidentalis. 

Bamboo. — Owing  to  their  light  and  graceful 
appearance  these  plants  are  useful  for  contrasting 
with  other  shrubs.  They  should  be  planted  in 
rich,  moist  soil,  and  are  most  effective  on  the 
margins  of  ponds  or  streams,  where  their  roots 
can  have  access  to  moisture.  The  best  time  for 
planting  is  in  late  spring,  and  a  good  mulching  of 
manure  should  be  given  after  planting  and  occa- 
sionally when  established,  this  serving  as  a  pro- 
tection in  winter  as  well  as  affording  nourish- 
ment to  the  roots.  Some  of  the  best-known 
species  are  Arundinaria  nobilis,  A.  japoniea,  A. 
Veitohii,  Bambusa  palmata,  Phyllostachys  aurea 
and  P.  nigra. 

Yucca. — These  are  quite  distinct  from  other 
shrubs  in  appearance,  and  are  very  effective  when 
planted  in  groups  on  the  lawn  or  associated  with 
Bamboos.     They  like  a  deep   but  rather  light. 


rich  soil,  and,  being  quite  hardy,  will  succeed  in 
any  position.  The  two  most  useful  species  are 
Y.  gloriosa,  with  erect,  sharp-pointed  leaves,  and 
Y.  recurvifolia,  in  which  the  leaves  are  longer 
and  much  recurved,  rendering  it  less  formal  in 


appearance. 

Erith. 


C.  W.  Caulfield. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING  EVENTS. 

November  2. — Ventnor  Chrysanthemum  Show 
(two  days)  ;  Brighton  and  Sussex  Horticultural 
Society's  Show  (two  days) ;  Plymouth  Chry- 
santhemum Show. 

November  3. — National  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Show  (three  days) ;  Bath  Chrysanthe- 
mum Show  (two  days)  ;  Chertsey  and  Ottershaw 
Autumn  Show. 

November  4. — Torquay  Chrysanthemum  Show. 

November  5.  ==^  Hinckley  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Show  (two  days) ;  Eccles  and  Pendleton 
Chrysanthemum  Show  (two  days) ;  Windsor  and 
Eton  Chrysanthemum  Show. 

November  6. — French  Horticultural  Society 
of  London  Meeting. 


Miss  W^illmott's  grarden.  —  Miss 
E.  A.  Willmott  has  given  Mr.  Quaritch  per- 
mission to  publish  a  selection  of  forty-one 
collotype  views  of  her  well-known  and  interesting 
garden  at  Great  Warley.  This  is  the  first  time 
that  any  photographs  of  the  garden  have  been 
published,  and  it  is  thought  that  they  will  prove 
of  exceptional  interest  to  all  horticulturists. 
The  work  will  form  one  volume  folio,  16  inches 
by  12  inches,  and  will  be  issued  early  in 
December. 

Edlnburg-h    Royal    Botanic 

Gardens. — The  series  of  extensions  and  im- 
provements which  have  been  in  progress  for  some 
years  in  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Edinburgh, 
is  about  to  be  continued  by  the  erection  of  im- 
portant new  buildings,  for  which  plans  have  just 
been  passed.  These  are  for  laboratory  purposes, 
and  will  be  built  at  the  old  entrance  to  the 
gardens  in  Inveileith  Row.  Further  additions 
are  contemplated,  but  the  plans  provide  for  what 
is  a  most  important  addition  to  the  present 
facilities  for  the  study  of  botany  and  for  experi- 
mental work.  The  buildings  will  consist  of  two 
floors,  ou  the  ground  floor  there  being  a  class- 
room 61  feet  long,  a  water  culture  room,  a  dark 
culture  room,  two  photographic  dark-rooms,  a 
room  for  pathology  and  apparatus,  and  a  work- 
shop. On  the  first  floor  will  be  provided  accom- 
modation for  a  large  mycologioal  laboratory,  a 
room  for  photomicrography,  a  studio,  and  rooms 
for  research  and  other  work.  The  most  approved 
principles  have  been  followed  in  the  constructive 
work  of  the  buildings,  and  the  whole  will  form  a 
most  important  factor  in  the  increasing  work 
done  at  these  gardens,  which  are  so  well  oared 
for  under  the  guidance  of  Professor  Bayley 
Balfour. 
A  school  of  horticulture.— In  view 

of  the  wide  interest  of  the  general  public  in  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  school  of  horticul- 
ture at  Wisley,  near  Weybridge,  where  both  the 
science  and  practice  of  gardening  are  taught  to 
thirty  young  men  almost  entirely  at  the  society's 
expense,  the  following  list  of  successes  gained 
this  summer  by  the  second  year  students  will  be 
of  interest  to  your  readers  :  Diploma  examina- 
tion (in  order  of  merit) — A.  W.  Simmonds 
(diploma  and  demonstratorship  of  £40  for  one 
year),  W.  G.  Kent  (diploma  and  prize),  J. 
Ridley  (diploma  and  prize),  H.  W.  Abbiss 
(diploma  and  prize),  G.  A.  S.  Brookes  (diploma), 
S.  B.  Gorringe  (diploma),  H.  L.  Robson  (diploma) 
and  N.  A.  Phillips  (diploma).  Nicholson  Prize 
for  observation — A.  W.  Simmonds.  General 
examination  —  J.      W.      McCaig     (scholarship 


of  £25  per  annum  for  two  years,  silver-gilt 
medal,  certificate  and  prize),  W.  Miles  (certifi- 
cate and  prize),  W.  G.  Kent  (certificate  and 
prize),  H.  L.  Robson  (certificate  and  prize), 
A.  W.  Simmonds  (certificate  and  prize),  and 
twelve  other  certificates.  In  the  unavoidable 
absence  of  the  president,  these  awards  were 
distributed  a  few  days  ago  by  Harry  J.  Veitch, 
Esq.,  V.M.H.,  who  was  accompanied  by  other 
members  of  the  council,  together  with  the  Right 
Hon.  Arthur  H.  Dyke  Acland,  ex-Minister  of 
Education,  who  gave  a  short  address.  Mr. 
James  Hudson,  V.M.H.,  also  gave  advice  arising 
from  a  lifelong  experience  as  a  practical  and 
scientific  gardener.  It  is  also  worthy  of  note 
that  Mr.  Seaton,  after  a  three  years'  course,  was 
this  summer  appointed  by  the  British  Columbia 
Government  to  superintend  one  of  its  public 
parks  at  a  commencing  salary  of  £200  a  year. — 
W.  WiLKS,  Secretary,  Royal  Horticultural 
Society. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the   opinioiis 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 


New  eaply  Chrysanthemums  in 

the  North. — Among  the  new  early  Chryean- 
themums  which  have  done  well  in  Scotland  this 
season  are  L'Aube,  one  of  M.  Nonin's  ;  it  is  of  a 
remarkably  fine  shade  of  rosy  mauve,  and  is  both 
growing  and  flowering  exceedingly  well.  Its 
height  here  is  rather  over  2  feet.  L'Oise,  another 
no>'elty  of  French  origin,  reminds  one  of  Orange 
Masse,  but  is  of  a  deeper  shade  ;  it  is  a  really 
fine  flower.  La  Somme  has  been  very  early,  and 
has  given  many  flowers  of  a  colour  catalogued  as 
a  rosy  mauve,  but  which  may,  perhaps,  be  best 
called  a  mixture  of  mauve  and  rose.  As  a 
delicately  tinted  flower.  La  Tamise  should  make 
its  way  into  many  gardens.  It  is  of  a  delicate 
blush  white,  and  grows  and  flowers  well  with  us  in 
the  North.  La  Tibre,  another  of  the  same  set,  is 
of  a  mahogany  or  chestnut  red  with  gold  reverse. 
It  does  well  here.  Tottie,  a  reddish  orange 
flower,  is  a  great  acquisition,  while  Connie  is  of 
rather  a  pleasing  shade  of  primrose  ;  its  height  of 
2 J  feet  is  not  excessive.  Lizzie  M'Neil  is  earning 
golden  opinions,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the 
season  ;  its  blooms  are  a  charming  salmon  and 
heliotrope.  Sybil  Quint  is  of  a  good  yellow,  and 
is  so  fine  that  it  will  probably  take  the  place  of 
most  of  the  flowers  of  its  colour.  Touraine,  one 
of  last  year's  introductions  of  M.  Nonin,  is 
of  a  pleasing  rosy  white  in  the  open,  and  is  after 
the  style  of  Hector.  La  Neva,  this  year's  intro- 
duction from  M.  Nonin,  blooms  freely  and  is 
likely  to  be  a  favourite  with  market  growers. 
The  flowers,  which  are  a  good  white,  are  of  high 
merit.  From  the  same  raiser  we  have  L'Aisne,  a 
fine  plant  which  blooms  well,  but  with  us  is 
rather  tall,  reaching  about  4  feet  in  height.  It 
is  rosy  mauve  with  a  silvery  reverse.  Margaret 
Juando  is  a  good  rain-resister — a  merit  indeed  in 
such  a  season — and  has  fine  solid  blooms  of  a 
good  buff,  shaded  with  salmon  and  yellow. — 
8.  Arnott,  N.B. 

Little -used  bulbs. —  With  regard  to 
Mr.  Jacobs'  very  interesting  note  about  little-used 
bulbs,  I  should  like  to  ask  him  or  some  other 
successful  grower  of  Muscari  plumosum  whether 
any  particular  care  is  to  be  observed  in  growing 
these  in  pots  V  I  have  planted  them  (in  the  garden) 
over  and  over  again,  and  they  never  even  came  up. 
I  was  intending  to  try  them  in  grass,  as  some- 
one mentioned  not  long  ago  (I  think  in  Tbe 
Garden)  that  they  did  better  in  grass  than  in  the 
border.  Now  I  shall  try  them  in  pots,  but  I 
should  like  to  know  of  possible  causes  of  failure. — 
A.  M. ,  Skelioith.  [There  is  no  difficulty  whatever 
in  growing  Feather  Hyacinths  (Muscari  plumosum) 
in  pots  or  round  pans  or  boxes.  Plant  them  in 
any  good  light  garden  soil,  covering  the  tops  of 
the  bulbs  with  half  an  inch  of  the  same.  Then  put 
the  pots  or  boxes  in  a  cold  frame  and  protect  from 


October  30,  1909. 


THE     GAEDEN. 


527 


frost.  It  is  a  long  time  before  any  top  growth 
appears,  and  then  it  is  a  long  while  before  the  little 
hard  button  at  the  bottom  of  the  leaves  begins  to 
elongate  and,  finally  but  slowly,  develop  into 
the  perfect  infioreaoence.  They  may  be  in- 
troduced in  batches  into  a  temperature  of  about 
50°  in  February  and  March  and  brought  on 
slowly.  There  is  very  little  chance  of  failure  if 
ordinary  cultural  details  are  attended  to.  The 
main  thing  to  remember  in  growing  these  Feather 
Hyacinths  is  that  they  are  slow  movers. — J. 
Jacob  ] 

Roses  at  Tunbpidgre  Wells.— 
In  my  garden  Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot  is 
very  dwarf  and  has  been  quite  leafless  since 
the  summer  flowers,  but  it  is  now  beginning 
to  shoot.  One  of  my  flowers  was,  I  think, 
better  than  that  figured  in  Pernet-Ducher's 
catalogue — quite  as  large.  If  you  will  compare 
it  with  Eugene  Fiirst  you  will  find  very  little 
diflferenoe  in  colour  or  general  appearance. 
Marquise  de  Sinety  is  a  good  Rose,  but  my 
tree  has  borne  no  such  magnificent  flowers  as 
those  shown  in  the  coloured  plate  in  your  Rose 
Number.  Perhaps  it  was  drawn  as  raised 
under  glass.  With  me  (out  of  doors)  it  has  been 
far  from  superior  to  Instituteur  Sirdey,  the 
finest  orange  Rose  I  have  ever  seen.  I  wish  you 
would  give  a  coloured  illustration  of  it.     You 


mildew-proof,  and  "V.  M."  for  mildews  badly. 
Could  you  suggest  it  '>.  Could  you  give  us  a  list 
of  mildew-proof  Roses?  It  would  be  a  great 
help  when  buying.  With  many  thanks  for  much 
that  I  have  learnt  from  your  admirable  paper, — 
W.  J.  Chapman,  Tunbridge  Wells. 

The  modern  Daffodil.— Many  exhibi- 
tors of  Daffodils,  especially  seedlings,  are  inclined 
to  show  flowers  which,  however  beautiful  when 
set  up  at  a  show,  would  have  little  or  no  value 
in  the  garden  or  for  market.  These  so-called 
"show "or  "florist's"  flowers  are  often  cut  in 
the  bud  state  and  opened  in  heat,  in  order  to 
develop  qualities  which  they  would  probably 
lack  if  allowed  to  bloom  naturally  in  the  open 
air.  This  practice  is  known  as  "  boiling  out," 
and  some  varieties,  such  as  the  Poeticus,  are  far 
superior  when  so  treated  ;  but  since  it  tends  to 
deceive  people  as  to  the  true  merits  of  a  variety, 
especially  if  new,  for  this  reason  it  should  be 
discouraged,  or,  at  any  rate,  I  would  have  all 
flowers  so  treated  and  all  flowers  from  bulbs 
grown  under  glass  marked  in  some  way  so  that 
everyone  could  see  that  they  had  been  so  treated 
or  grown.  Who  would  recognise  Victoria  grown 
under  glass  as  the  same  as  Victoria  grown  in  the 
open  ?  and  grandis,  too,  what  a  different  flower 
it  gives  snder  glass  !  So  it  is  with  many 
other  varieties,  but  these  two  are  perhaps  the 


survive  when  the  so-called   ' '  florist's  flowers  ' 
are  forgotten. — W.  A.  Watts. 


A     TULIP     BORDER. 

THERE  are  many  ways  in  which  a 
collection  of  Tulips  may  be  grown. 
They  may  be  spread  here  and  there 
all  over  the  garden  in  patches  of 
varying  size  ;  they  may  be  planted  in 
rows  in  beds,  like  in  a  nursery  garden ; 
there  may  be  a  Tulip  garden  with  walks  paved 
with  large,  flat  stone  slabs  and  trimly,  low-kept 
Box  edging  ;  or,  as  illustrated  below,  if  a  wide 
border  is  vacant,  it  may  be  filled  with  different 
kinds  of  Tulips  grouped  in  irregular  patches  so  as 
to  give  a  succession  of  bloom.  If  this  is  well 
done  it  will  form  a  beautiful  and  highly  interest- 
ing feature  for  some  weeks.  The  particular 
arrangement  is  a  sort  of  ideal  one  that  I  would 
like  myself,  but  it  must  only  be  treated  as  a  sug- 
gestion. The  varieties  are  gathered  from  so 
many  lists  that  few  are  likely  to  have  them  all. 
The  leaves  of  the  Tulips  will  form  their  own 
green  carpet,  and  if  the  stems  are  cut  off  just 
above  the  top  leaf  when  the  flowers  fade  the 
border  will  always  have  a  neat  and  tidy  look. 
The  spaces  given  are  only  approximate,  as  it  is 


a   border   or  TULIPS  ARRANGED  TOR   COLOUR  EFFECT. 


mention  Mr.  Bennett's  The  Meteor  ;  I  had  it  in 
my  Rose-bed,  but  not  a  bud  would  open,  so  I 
moved  it  into  the  best  position  in  my  kitchen 
garden.  There  it  has  grown  vigorously  and 
given  plenty  of  buds,  but  not  one  has  opened. 
I  find  the  same  with  Mme.  Joseph  Godier-- 
abundance  of  buds,  but  not  a  single  flower  in 
two  years  ;  but  Devoniensis,  Ethel  Brownlow, 
Duchess  of  Portland  and  Adam  have  done  very 
well  by  the  change  to  the  kitchen  garden.  This 
seems  interesting  as  showing  what  a  difference 
soil  and  situation  in  the  same  garden  will  make. 
Some  long  time  back  you  gave  me  a  list  of  Roses, 
and  I  got  all  but  one,  which  I  could  not  find  in 
any  catalogue.  One  was  Prefet  Monteil.  It  is 
curious  that  the  first  flowers  all  come  divided, 
but  not  the  second  lot.  I  saw  in  a  show  here  a 
very  fine  flower  of  Oberhofgiirtner  Terks.  I  got 
the  Rose.      It  mildews  very  much  and  is   im- 

gatient  of  wet,  and  only  gave  a  few  very  poor 
owers.  What  you  wrote  about  Mildred  Grant 
I  found  quite  true  ;  the  first  flower  grand  and  all 
afterwards  wretchedly  poor.  Since  I  wrote  in 
July,  Farbenkoaigin  has  shown  itself  one  of  the 
best  flowers  in  the  garden.  I  understand  that 
our  National  Rose  Society  is  bringing  out  a  new 
catalogue.  I  do  wish  that  it  would  notify 
whether  a  Rose  mildews  or  not.  It  might 
indicate  it  by  letters,  say,  "M."  at  the  end  of  the 
description    stands    for    mildew,  "  N.    M."   for 


most  striking  examples.  There  is  another  far 
more  serious  matter  I  would  like  to  draw 
attention  to  ;  that  is,  the  getting  up  of  flowers 
for  show— I  mean  the  use  of  paper  collars  or 
little  cardboard  discs  with  holes  in  the  centre, 
which  are  slipped  over  the  stem  behind  the 
perianth  segments  in  order  to  keep  these  in 
position  and  prevent  their  natural  reflexing,  and 
the  "  thumbing"  of  a  cup  to  make  it  appear  a 
flat-cupped  or  Eogleheartii  typo  of  flower. 
These  practices  are  dishonest,  and  we  should  do 
all  we  can  to  stop  them,  or  the  Daffodil  will  soon 
begin  to  lose  the  great  popularity  it  has  gained 
as  a  beautiful  and  useful  flower.  Another 
important  point  is  the  question  of  stalks.  One 
sees  lovely  flowers  shown  with  little  more  than 
their  head  and  shoulders,  so  to  speak,  sticking 
out  of  a  tuft  of  moss.  This  may  mean  that  the 
flower  has  no  stem  to  cut,  or  that  the  exhibitor 
has  not  thought  fit  to  out  it  at  its  full  length. 
A  long,  firm  stem  is  one  of  the  most  valuable 
attributes  of  the  Daffodil,  and  it  is  highly 
important  that  judges  should  take  account  of  it. 
I  should  like  to  see  a  rule  in  Daffodil  societies' 
schedules  that  every  flower  be  shown  with  its 
full  length  of  stem  cut  at  the  ground  level,  and 
I  would  suggest  that  points  be  given  for  good 
stems.  What  we  want  are  flowers  for  the 
garden  and  for  the  market,  flowers  for  which  a 
coster    would    find    a    ready    sale ;     these    will 


impossible  to  exactly  hit  off  the  room  that  should 
be  allowed  for  small  kinds,  such  as  linifolia,  and 
for  large  ones,  like  Tulipe  Noire,  in  a  plan  on 
paper.  These  details  must  be  left  to  the  common- 
sense  of  the  planter.  I  append  some  alternatives 
for  some  of  the  more  expensive  or  uncommon 
varieties. 
ForJohnRuskin  -         -  say  Fairy  Queen 


Zulu 

Emperor  Alexander 

Tulipe  Noire  ■ 

Beauty  of  Bath 

Turenne  - 

Zomerschoon  - 

Clio 

Pompadour     - 

Inglescombe  Yellow 

Scarlet  Emperor     - 

Ada 

Hammer  Hales 

Glare  of  the  Garden 

Toison  d'Or    - 

Tara 

Orange  King  - 

Solfatare 


The  Sultan 

Dainty  Maid 

Leonardo  da  Vinci 

Doris 

Orange  Beauty 

Goldflake 

Bronze  Queen 

Glaucopis  (Wallace) 

Parisian  Yellow 

maculata  The  Moor 

WhiteQueen  (Darwin) 

gesneriana  aurantiaca 

raacrospeila 

Jaune  d'ceuf 

Fontenelle  (Darwin) 

retroflexa 

flava 


Others  will  doubtless  suggest  themselves,  and 
a  great  help  will  be  found  in  the  excellent 
arrangement  that  we  find  in  many  catalogues  of 
stating  not  only  the  colour  of  the  flower  but  tht 
height  of  the  plant.  Joseph  Jacob. 


528 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  30,  1909. 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN. 

NOTES  ON  NEWER  ROSES. -VI. 

(Continued  Jrom  paye  49S.) 

Hybrid  Teas. 

FRIEURICHSRUH  (J.  C.  Sohmidt, 
1(1(17). — By  some  nurserymen  I  see 
this  Rose  is  called  a  Tea,  but  I  think 
it  is  a  Hybrid  Tea ;  the  colour  is  best 
described  as  blood  red;  the  flowers 
are  medium  in  size  with  a  tair 
number  of  petals,  and  it  is  sweet-scented  and 
a  moderately  good  grower.  It  is  possible  that 
there  may  be  two  Roses  of  the  same  name,  as  I 
see  in  a  catalogue  just  to  hand  Turke  is  given  as 
the  raiser  of  a  Rose  Friedrichsruh,  a  Tea  that 
was  awarded  a  gold  medal  at  Dusseldorf.  This 
double  naming  is  likely  to  lead  to  confusion.  I 
admit  it  is  difficult  to  see  how  to  avoid  it  short 
of  registration.  There  are  two  Rosea,  quite  dis- 
tinct, put  in  commerce  this  year  under  the  name 
of  Entente  Cordiale,  one  a  yellow  Hybrid  Tea  of 
Pernet-Duoher's,  raised  from  a  cross  of  Mme. 
AbeljChatenay  with  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  ; 


treated  well  to  get  size  into  the  blooms.  At  the 
time  of  writing  (mid-September)  it  is  full  of 
flowers  and  will  continue  as  long  as  any  Roses 
are  left ;  in  fact,  last  year  Betty  and  (iraoe 
Molyneux  were  the  only  Roses  worthy  of  the 
name  on  Christmas  Day  (the  previous  season  we 
could  have  out  100  blooms,  and  did  cut  between 
liO  and  70  on  December  2.5).  The  foliage  is  good 
and  altogether  it  makes  a  fine  decorative  plant ; 
about  the  best  bedder  of  its  colour,  which  is 
saying  a  good  deal  when  one  remembers  that 
Antoine  Kivoire  would  come  in  this  category. 
It  has  slightly  more  colour,  perhaps,  than  that 
Rose  and  is  more  pointed.  It  has  been  given 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  award  of  merit 
and  the  National  Rose  Society's  card  of  com- 
mendation, and  many  a  worse  Rose  has  had  the 
gold  medal.  It  is  not,  I  should  say,  an  exhibitor's 
Rose,  though  I  have  frequently  exhibited  it,  but 
it  is  one  of  those  Roses  that  occasionally  will 
give  a  bloom  quite  up  to  exhibition  form,  and 
so  is  doubly  useful. 

Griim  an  Sangerhausen  (Dr.  Miiller,  190.5). — 
This  is  a  good  bedding  Rose  in  its  shade  of 
colour ;  last  year  it  approached  at  times  a 
brilliant  scarlet,  but^this  year  the  weather  has 


IRISES    EDGING    A    PAVED    PATHWAY.       (See  pttc/c  .'-JC.) 


the  other,  sent  out  by  Guillot,  I  think,  a  little 
previously,  belongs  apparently  to  the  new  class 
(raised  directly  or  indirectly  from  Rosa  lutea)  and 
known  as  Pernetiana,  and  to  which  Lyon  Rose 
and  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert  belong  ;  and  appa- 
rently there  are  also  two  Friedriohsruhs. 

Grace  Molyuevx  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
1908). — I  have,  naturally,  had  a  good  many  en- 
quiries about  this  Rose.  I  first  saw  it  about 
eight  years  ago  in  the  nurseries  at  Newtownards, 
and  I  picked  it  out  in  company  with  the  Rose 
now  named  Molly  Sharman  Crawford  from  all 
the  seedlings — and  there  were  not  a  few — that  I 
saw  on  that  visit ;  the  growth  and  perfume  and 
general  decorative  qualiiies  of  the  Rose  appealed 
to  me  quite  as  much  as  the  flower.  The  following 
year  Messrs.  Dickson  sent  me  a  couple  of  plants 
that  are  still  in  my  garden  here,  so  I  have  had 
plenty  of  opportunities  of  seeing  the  Rose.  It  is 
not  large,  but  only  if  given  high  culture  and 
severely  disbudded  will  it  be  of  any  service 
to  the  exhibitor  ;  in  fact,  at  no  time  should 
more  than  one  flower  be  allowed  to  oome  on  one 
shoot.  I  know  no  better  grower  in  the  whole 
family,  and  its  flowers  can  easily  be  cut  on 
18-inoh  stems  ;  in  fact,  are  always  so  cut  here. 
At  its  best  it  is  very  beautiful,  but  it  muit  be 


taken  the  brilliancy  quite  out  of  the  flowers, 
which  have  come  a  dull  red,  with  a  deeper  shade 
in  the  centre.  It  is  a  good  grower  and  is  per- 
fumed, and  I  think  is  worthy  of  a  place  in  our 
list  of  Roses.  We  have  had  many  good  Roses 
from  this  amateur,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  to  mention 
only  one. 

General  McArthur  (E.  3.  Hill  and  Co.,  190.5).— 
The  raiser,  who  was  over  here  in  1908,  told  me 
at  the  National  Rose  Society's  show  at  Regent's 
Park  that  he  thought  this  was  a  better  Rose  than 
Richmond,  and  for  garden  decoration  lam  sure  that 
it  is.  It  will  not  give  us  as  many  fine  flowers 
in  an  early  cool  season  as  that  variety,  but  it  is 
a  brighter  crimson  and  a  more  vigorous  grower, 
with  a  stronger  scent.  Altogether  I  can  recom- 
mend it  to  anyone  who  wants  a  good  crimson 
bedder.  Its  freedom  of  flower  places  it  in  front 
of  Hugh  Dickson  as  a  bedding  variety. 

H.  Armytage  Moore  (Hugh  Dickson,  1907). — 
This  is  a  beautiful  decorative  variety  that  will 
occasionally,  perhaps,  give  us  a  flower  up  to 
exhibition  standard — a  delicate  shade  of  silvery 
pink  on  the  inside  of  the  petal,  with  a  deeper, 
almost  rose,  pink  outside.  Good  distinct  foliage. 
There  are,  I  know,  many  Roses  that  can  only  be 
described  as  a  shade  of  pink,  yet  they  are  each 


distinct  enough  to  warrant  their  cultivation. 
This  Rose  has  a  fine  long-pointed  bud  that  helps 
to  recommend  it. 

Hector  Mackenzie  (Guillot,  1908).— A  dark 
shade  of  rosy  pink  that  in  the  older  flowers  runs 
into  a  light  crimson.  It  seems  free-flowering 
and  is  fragrant,  two  good  points  in  its 
favour  ;  but  1  have  not  seen  enough  of  it  to  be 
in  a  position  to  say  more. 

Herrero  Trotha  (Lambert,  1906). — I  am  not  par- 
ticularly struck  with  this  Rose  ;  the  colour  is  best 
described  as  rosy  salmon,  but  there  is  a  maroon 
tint  in  it  that  is  not  pleasing.  Good-shaped  bud 
and  fragrant. 

Instituteur  Sirdey  (Pernet-Ducher,  1906). — One 
of  the  many  good  yellows  from  this  firm  ;  it 
was  one  of  the  best  of  its  colour  until  Marquise 
de  Sinety  and  Duchess  of  Wellington  appeared. 
It  is  not  as  deep  as  either  of  these  Roses,  but 
may  fairly  be  described  as  golden  yellow.  It  has 
been  good  this  season,  but  in  a  hot  summer  will 
require  shading. 

Irish  Elegance  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1905). 
Every  garden  should  contain  a  plant  of  this 
Rose,  even  if  its  owner  is  not  an  admirer  of 
single  Roses,  as  it  is  the  most  beautiful  of  them 
all,  and  if  a  Rose  can  be  said  to  be  "  charming," 
Irish  Elegance  might  lay  claim  to  the  title. 

Italia. — I  do  not  know  the  raiser  of  this 
Rose  ;  it  is  a  big,  bold  flower,  carmine  in  colour, 
with  apparently  Bourbon  blood  in  it.  I  re- 
member Messrs.  Paul  and  Son  had  some  fine 
pot  plants  at  the  Temple,  but  I  have  seen  very 
little  of  it,  and  it  has  not  yet  been  figured  in  many 
of  the  catalogues.  I  think  it  is  a  cross  between  La 
France  de  '89  and  one  of  the  Bourbons  ;  which 
one  I  cannot  say.  I  only  mention  it  here  as  a 
correspondent,  whose  letter  bore  no  address, 
wrote  and  asked  me  my  opinion  of  it  and  what 
its  history  was. 

Jean  Noti  (Pernet-Ducher,  1908).— This  Rose 
has  been  a  disappointment  with  me.  It  was 
strongly  recommended  as  something  very  mueh 
out  of  the  ordinary,  of  an  altogether  unique 
colour  ;  but  beyond  a  deep  yellow  pretty  in  the 
bud,  it  opens  out  into  a  flat,  shapeless  flower 
with  nothing  to  recommend  it.  Of  course,  I 
have  only  grown  it  this  year.  My  plants  were 
"wee  bits  of  things."  Perhaps  it  is  hardly  fair 
to  expect  very  mueh  from  them,  so  I  will  not 
condemn  the  Rose  altogether ;  but  I  do  not 
think  it  will  ever  be  much  good. 

Jeanne  Barioz  (Guillot,  1907). — This  is  a  good- 
sized  flower,  very  pale  salmon,  with  a  deeper 
centre.  Moderately  vigorous  is  the  most  that 
can  be  said  for  its  habit  of  growth.  Not  a  bad 
Rose,  but  no  good,  I  think,  to  the  exhibitor.  It 
is  likely  to  be  confused  with 

Jeanne  Buatois  (Buatois,  1902). — An  older 
flower,  but  only  just  coming  into  cultivation  as  far 
as  the  names  go  ;  but  the  flowers  are  quite  unlike 
Jeanne  Barioz,  being  an  exhibition  Rose  pure 
and  simple,  producing  a  large  flower  of  the 
Bessie  Brown  type  and  colour,  and  like  that  Rose, 
too,  in  tissue  of  petal,  and  therefore  impatient  of 
wet,  but  shaded  and  protected  a  Rose  that  is 
well  worth  trying.  I  have  had  some  very  big 
flowers,  and  it  has  been  exhibited,  too,  well  this 
season  on  more  than  one  occasion  by  Messrs. 
Frank  Cant  and  Co.  of  Colchester,  who  had  a  flower 
at  Purley  show  that  might  have  had  the  medal  for 
the  best  Hybrid  Tea,  only  the  judges  preferred, 
as  most  judges  do,  a  good  dark  Hybrid  Perpetual. 
Purley.  Herbert  E.  Molyneux. 

(To  be  continued. J 


BRITISH-RAISED    ROSES. 

(Continued  from  page  ulO.J 
Bblow    we   give  a  continuation  of  the  list  of 
British-raised  Roses,  which  was  commenced  in 
our  Rose  Number,  published  on  the  9th  inst.  : 

Mrs.  L.  Dewhurst,  Wioh.,  Pearson. 

Mrs.  Laxton,  H.P.,  Laxton. 

Mrs.  Longworth,  H.T.,  Prince. 

Mrs.  Maynon  Sinton,  H.T.,  McGredy. 

Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy,  T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 


October  30,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


529 


Mrs.  0.  G.  Orpen,  Single,  Orpen. 

Mrs.  P.  H.  Coats,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 

Mrs.  Paul,  Bourb.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Mrs.  Peter  Blair,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Mrs.    R.    G.    Sharman    Crawford,    H.P.,    A. 
Diekson  and  Sons. 

Mrs.  Rumsey,  H.P.,  Rumsey. 

Mrs.  Sophia  Neate,  T. ,  Bide. 

Mrs.  Stewart  Clark,  H.T.,  H.  Diekson. 

Mrs.  W.  Cooper,  H.T.,  H.  Dickson. 

Mrs.  W.  H.  Cutbush,  Poly.,  Cutbush. 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Mrs.      Wakefield      Christie  -  Miller,      H.T., 
MoGredy. 

Muriel,  H.P.,  F.  Cant. 

Muriel  Grahame,  T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Nance  Christy,  H.T.,  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons. 

Nelly  Johnstone,  T.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Nita  Weldon,  T. .  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Nymph,  Mult.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Paula,  T.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Paul's  Early  Blush,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Paul's  Single  White,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Peace,  T.,  Piper. 

Peggy,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Phyllis,  Poly. ,  H.  Merryweather  and  Sons. 

Pink  Rover, 
H.T.,  W.  Paul  and 
Son. 

Pride  of  Reigate, 
H.P.,  Brown. 

Pride  of  Wal- 
tham,  H.P.,  W. 
Paul  and  Son. 

Prince     Arthur,  ,^ 

H.P.,  B.    R.   Cant 
and  Sons. 

Princess  Beatrice, 
T.,  Bennett. 

Princess  Louise 
Victoria,  H.P., 
Knight. 

Princess  May, 
H.T.,  W.  Paul  and 
Son. 

Princess  of 
Wales,  T., Bennett. 

Psyche,  Mult. , 
Paul  and  Son. 

PureGem,Wioh., 
Spooner. 

Purity,  Hybrid 
Bourb.,  Cooling. 

Queen  Alexan- 
dra, Mult.,  J. 
Veitch  and  Sons. 

Queen  Mab, 
China,  W.  Paul 
and  Son. 

Queen  of  Spain, 
H.T.,  Bide. 

Queen  of  Queens,  H.P. 

Queen  of  Sweden  and 
Son. 

Queen  of  Waltham,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Red  Dragon,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Red  Gauntlet,  H.P. ,  Postans, 

Red  Pet,  China,  Paul  and  Son. 

Refulgence,  H.  Briar,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Rev.  Alan  Cheales,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Rev.  David  R.  Williamson,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson 
and  Sons. 

Reynolds  Hole,  H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Robert  Duncan,  H.P. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Robert  Scott,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Rosalind,  Hyb.  Musk,  Paul  and  Son. 

Rose  Apples,  Rug. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Rose  Bradwardine,  Briar,  Lord  Penzance. 

Rosslyn,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Royal  Scarlet,  single  H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 

Rugosa  repens  alba.  Rug.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Salamander,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Sor. 

Sapho,  T. ,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Shandon,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Sheila,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Sheila  Wilson,  Hybrid,  Hall. 

Shower  of  Gold,  Wich.,  Paul  and  Son, 


Silver  Queen,  H.P..  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Simplicity,  H.T. ,  H.  Dickson. 
Sir  Rowland  Hill,  H.P..  Mack. 
Snowstorm,  H.  Musk,  Paul  and  Son. 
Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince,  T.,  Prince. 
Souvenir  of  Stella  Gray,  T.,  A.  Dickson  and 
Sons. 
Spenser,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
St.  George,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Stanwell  Perpetual,  P.  Scotch,  Standish. 
Star  of  Waltham,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Starlight,  Mult. ,  Paul  and  Son. 
Sulphured,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  H.P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 
Sunrise,  T. ,  Piper. 
Sylph,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Symmetry,  H  P. ,  Paul  and  Son. 
T.  B.  Haywood,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 
Tea  Rambler,  Paul  and  Son. 
Tennyson,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
The  Alexandr.i,  T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
The  Dandy,  H.T..  Paul  and  Son. 
The  Lion,  Mult..  Paul  and  Son. 
The  Queen,  T. ,  Bennett. 
The  Wallflower,  Mult.,  Paul  and  Son. 
Thelma,  Wich. ,  Spooner. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


NEW  DESSERT  APPLE  ST.  EVERARD. 

HIS  excellent  new  Apple  was  fully 
described  on  page  511  of  our  issue 
for  the  16th  inst.  As  stated  there,  it 
is  the  result  of  a  cross  between 
Cox's  Orange  Pippin  and  Margil, 
two  varieties  of  particularly  good 
flavour.  It  was  exhibited  by  Messrs.  James 
Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  before  the  fruit  and 
vegetable  committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  on  September  28,  when  it  received  the 
high  award  of  a  first-class  certificate. 


T 


i^yag?-- 


THE   NEW   DESSERT  APPLE   ST.    EVERARD.      (Nahiral  size.) 


,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 
Norway,  T. ,  Paul  and 


Theresa,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Theresa  Bevan,  T.,  Garraway. 

Tom  Wood,  H.P.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Topaz,  Wich.  T.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Ulster,  H.P. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Una,  Hybrid,  Paul  and  Son. 

Violet  Queen,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

Viscountess  Folkestone,  H.T.,  Bennett. 

Vivid,  H.C.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

W.  E.  Lippiatt,  H.T. ,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Walter  Speed,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons. 

Waltham  Bride,  Mult.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Waltham  Climbers  Nos.  1,  2  and  3.  H.T  . 
W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Waltham  Rambler,  Mult.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Waltham  Standard,  H.P.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Warrior,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

White  Baroness,  H.P.,  Paul  and  Son. 

White  Dorothy  Perkins,  Wich.,  B.  R.  Cant 
and  Sons. 

White  Lady,  H.T.,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

William  F.  Bennett,  H.T.,  Bennett. 

William  R.  Smith,  T.,  H.  Dickson. 

William  Shean,  H.T.,  A.  Dickson  and  Sons, 

Zenobia,  Moss,  W.  Paul  and  Son. 

Zephyr,  T. ,  W,  Paul  and  Son, 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

Preparing  for  Planting. — It  is  sife  to  assume 
that  those  who  have  many  trees  to  plant  during 
the  present  season  will  have  put  the  preparatory 
operations  in  hand  some  weeks  back  ;  but  where, 
as  is  usually  the  case  in  the  smaller  gardens,  only  a 
limited  number  have  to  be  dealt  with,  all  the  work 
can  be  accomplished  in  a  comparatively  short 
time.  There  can- 
not be  the  slightest 
doubt  as  to  the 
wisdom  of  doing 
all  that  is  possible 
in  advance,  for  the 
grower  is  then  able 
to  take  advantage 
of  the  first  fine  day 
after  the  trees 
arrive  from  the  nur- 
sery to  get  them 
in  their  permanent 
positions.  On  the 
other  hand,  when 
nothing  has  been 
got  in  readiness,  it 
is  quite  conceivable 
that  the  delay 
neeessitated  by  the 
formation  of  the 
stations  may  mean 
a  delay  of  a  month 
or  even  more  in  the 
planting,  for  with 
the  advent  of 
November  one 
never  knows  when 
weather  totally 
unsuitable  for  the 
planting  of  fruit  or 
any  other  trees  may 
set  in  or  how  long 
it  will  last  when  it 
does  come.  There- 
fore prepare  the  stations  and  the  stakes,  so  that 
the  actual  planting  may  be  expeditiously  carried 
out  when  the  trees  arrive  and  the  condition  of 
the  land  will  permit  of  it. 

In  the  formation  of  stations  it  is  customary  to 
take  out  a  good  spit  of  soil  and  then  thoroughly 
cultivate  the  second  spit,  incorporating  manure 
if  it  is  considered  desirable,  as  judged  by  the 
known  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  if  the  hole  can 
remain  open  a  week  or  two  before  planting  is 
done,  so  much  the  better.  Not  only  will 
exposure  to  the  weather,  as  suggested,  sweeten 
the  soil  and  add  a  little  to  its  fertility,  but  it  will 
give  time  for  the  settlement  that  naturally 
follows  the  digging,  and  it  will  not  be  so  likely 
that  the  roots  will  be  disturbed  subsequently. 
If  the  soil  is  positively  known  to  be  impoverished, 
it  is  wise  to  add  a  quantity  of  manure  to  the 
subsoil,  but  no  more  than  is  absolutely  essential 
should  be  used,  and  it  must  never  be  placed 
where  it  will  come  in  contact  with  the  roots. 
The  depth  will  be  approximately  1  foot,  and  the 
diameter  may  be  at  the  discretion  of  the  planter, 
provided  that  he  allows  for  at  least  1  foot  of  new 
soil  round  the  extreme  spread  of  the  roots. 
This  is  of  material  advantage,  since  it  favours 


e,.H. 


do 


JO 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  October  30,  19(9. 


the  ready  exteneion  of  the  roots  after  they  have 
been  laid  out  to  their  full  length,  and  therefore 
reduces  the  probabilities  of  striking  downwards. 

Planting. — ^The  time  has  gone  by  when  people 
used  to  take  out  one  spit  of  soil,  ram  in  the 
roots,  and  after  throwing  in  a  little  soil,  jump  on 
it  to  settle  it  down  into  position.  Nowadays  it 
is  acknowledged  that  those  who  would  achieve 
the  greatest  success  over  the  longest  possible 
period  must  regard  careful  planting  as  the 
foundation  of  their  results.  One  does  not  plant 
a  tree  as  one  plants  a  Geranium — for  one  season 
only,  but  for  many  seasons ;  and  one  expects 
that  after  a  reasonable  time  has 
elapsed  there  will  be  a  regular 
annual  return.  If  one  expects 
so  much,  then  one  should  give 
something,  or  rather  everything, 
to  favour  it.  And  good  planting 
does  this.  Before  the  roots  are 
set  in  the  previously  prepared 
station,  either  some  entirely  new 
loam  or  some  of  the  finest  quality 
top  soil  should  be  put  in,  for  it 
is  decidedly  unwise  to  place  the 
roots  on  the  possibly  unsweet  and 
partially  impoverished  subsoil. 

This  done,  all  roots  should  be 
fully  spread  out  and  the  soil 
worked  well  in  between  the 
layers  ;  at  the  same  time  as  one 
gives  a  persistent  outward  ten- 
dency from  the  main  stem,  or 
bole,  one  should  ensure  a  slight 
downward  direction,  since  it  is 
natural  to  the  roots  to  extend 
outwards  and  downwards,  and  in 
this  matter  it  is  well  to  closely 
copy  Nature.  When  the  opera- 
tion is  completed  the  mound  will 
rise  rather  above  the  normal  level 
of  the  ground,  but  it  will  settle 
down  with  the  weather  and  time. 
There  is  one  most  important 
detail  which  must  never  be  over- 
looked before  planting,  and  that 
is  to  be  perfectly  certain  that  not 
a  single  bruised  or  damaged  root 
has  gone  into  the  soil ;  look  them 
over  carefully  and  cut  back  all 
that  are  broken  to  sound,  healthy 
parts.  It  is  almost  always  wise, 
if  not  imperative,  to  use  stakes, 
and  these  should  be  placed  in 
position  before  planting,  since  to 
drive  them  down  when  the  roots 
are  in  means  that  many  of  these 
will  assuredly  be  damaged  in  the 
process.  Fruit-grower. 


esteemed  for  making  into  jelly,  which  in  itself  is 
a  sufficient  reason  for  the  tree  being  grown. 
P.  bacoata  is  a  widely  distributed  species,  being 
found  from  the  Himalayas  northwards  to  Siberia 
and  north-eastwards  to  Japan.  Under  cultiva- 
tion it  forms  a  round-headed  tree  20  feet  to 
25  feet  high,  with  a  wide  spread,  and  bears  white 
flowers,  slightly  flushed  with  pink,  with  ex- 
ceptional freedom  in  May.  The  fruits  are 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  to  1  inch  in  diameter, 
and  are  bright  red  and  yellow  in  colour.  Several 
varieties  are  known,  of  which  cerasifera  has  rich 
red,  cherry-like   fruits  :    microcarpa,  very  tiny 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


TREES  &  SHRUBS. 


CEANOTHUS 
LONDON 


IN    A   NORTH 
GARDEN. 


CEANOTHUS  GLOIRE 
DE  VERSAILLES  is 
the  best  of  this  family 
for  all-round  purposes. 
The  small  lavender  blue  flowers 
look  chaste  and  are  very  showy ; 
they  are  borne  in  clusters  at  the 
points  of  the  new  growths.  It 
does  well  as  a  shrub  in  the  border  or,  as  seen  in 
the  illustration,  trained  up  a  wall. 

Hiyhgate.  C.  T. 


IRISES  EDGING  A  PAVED  PATH. 

THE     sunlight     is     so    strong    in     the 
illustration    on  page  528    that    it    is 
not  at  first  easy  to  see  the  nature  of 
the  path.     It     is    paved    with    flat 
stones,  and  has  for  edging  the  entire 
length  on  either  side  Bearded  Irises 
and  Violas.    The  Iris  chiefly  shown  is  I.  fiorentina, 
but  those  at  the  lower  end  on  the  right-hand  side 
are  some  of  the  Intermediate   Irises  raised  by 
Mr.  Caparne    in   Guernsey  some 
years  ago.    Golden  Fleece,  Ivorine 
and  Edith  are  those  here  planted, 
and    I    find    them    excellent    to 
associate    with    the   well-known 
Florentine    Iris,     both     in    har- 
mony of  colour,  period  of  flower- 
ing, and  similarity  of  stature  and 
habit. 

The  Irises  on  the  left-hand  side 
at  the  further  end  are  more 
recently  planted,  and  were  not  of 
flowering  strength  this  season. 
The  Violas  are  mostly  cool  mauve 
shades,  such  as  Kitty  Bell  and 
Maggie  Mott,  or  purple,  like 
Archie  Grant.  They  form  a  good 
contrast  to  the  pale  lavender 
and  creamy  yellow  tints  of  these 
Irises,  and,  of  course,  carry  on  the 
interest  after  the  Iris  blooms  are 
over,  and  are  very  charming 
running  out  over  the  stones  from 
among  the  tufts  of  glaucous 
leaves.  A  row  of  choice  Daffodils 
is  planted  on  either  side  behind 
the  Irises,  and  tall  perennials 
behind  them,  which  grow  over 
the  bare  spaces  left  after  the 
departure  of  the  Daffodils. 

I  find  the  Bearded  Irises  very 
useful  to  grow  in  hot,  dry,  poor 
ground,  of  which  this  garden 
contains  a  good  deal.  I.  florentina 
and  I.  germanica  will  cover  the 
ground  well  almost  the  whole 
year  even  under  old  Yews,  and 
with  a  little  attention  as  to  top- 
dressing  and  occasional  division 
will  flower  well  enough  to  pay 
tor  the  trouble  taken. 

E.  A.  Bowles. 
Waltham  Cross. 


THE  SIBERIAN  CRAB. 
The  Siberian  Crab,  Pyrus  bacoata,  is  one  of  the 
most  ornamental  of  the  many  showy  kinds  of 
Pyrus,  and  it  has  the  advantage  of  retaining  its 
fruits  until  well  on  into  the  winter  ;  in  fact,  fruits 
have  been  known  to  hang  on  the  trees  until 
March.  This  makes  it  a  desirable  tree  to  plant, 
were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  the  fruits  are  much 


CEANOTHUS    GLOIRE    DE    VERSAILLES   IN    A    HIGHGATE    GARDEN, 


fruits  ;  and  macrocarpa,  fruits  double  the  size  of 
those  of  the  type.  It  is  closely  allied  to  the 
Siberian  P.  prunifolia,  and  there  does  not  appear 
to  be  any  wide  distinguishing  line  between  the 
two  species.  Typical  fruits  of  the  two  species, 
however,  exhibit  a  difference  in  the  calyx  teeth, 
for  while  they  are  usually  rather  prominent  in 
P.  prunifolia  until  the  fruits  fall,  they  nearly 
always  fall  very  early  in  P.  baceata.  The 
fruits  of  P.  prunigolfa  ripen  and  fall  considerably 
earlier  than  those  of  the  other  species.  All  these 
form  beautiful  objects  in  the  woodland  during 
the  autumn  months.  W.  D. 


NATIONAL    SWEET    PEA 
SOCIETY'S    CLASSIFI- 
CATION    OF    SWEET 
PEAS    FOR    1910. 
Owing  to  the  popularity  of  the 
Sweet  Pea,  we  have  much  pleasure 
in  publishing  the  subjoined  par- 
ticulars, which  have  been  sent  to 
us  by  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis,  secretary 
of   the   National   Sweet   Pea 
Society.     The  selection  of  varie- 
ties   should    prove  of    consider- 
able value  to  our  readers  as  an 
indication  of   varieties    to    pur- 
chase     either     for    autumn     or 
spring  sowing.     The  following  is  an  up-to-date 
selection  of  varieties  in  commerce,  drawn  up  by 
the  floral  committee  : 

While Etta  Dyke,  Nora  Unwln  and 

*Dorothy  Eckford 
Critiismi  and  Scadcl    -       -    The    King,    *KiDg   Edward 

and  *QueeD  Alexandra 
Hose  and  Cannine         -        -    John       Ingman,      Marjorle 

Willis     and     *Prince     of 

Wales 
YelliiH'  and  Btijf    -       -       -    Clara   Curtis    and    *Jamea 

Grie\e 

Blue A.  J.  Cook  and  *Lord  Nelson 

Btush Mrs.  Hardcaatle  Sykes 

CevUe ChrissieUnwinand*CoGcinea 


October  30,  1909 


THE    GARDEN. 


531 


Pink 

Cream  Pink  - 

Orange  shades 

Lavender 

VioJet  aiul  Pnrijlo 

Magenta 
Maure     ■ 


Countess  Spencer  and  *Prima 

Donna 
Constance  Oliver,    Mrs.   n. 

Bell  and  *Queen  of  Spain 
Helen  Lewis,  St.  George  and 

*Miss  Willraott 
Frank  Dolby,  Mrs.  C.  Foster 

and  ^Lady  G.  Hamilton 
Rosie  Adams  and  'Duke  of 

Westminster 
Menie  Christie 
The     Marquis     and     *  Mrs. 

Walter  Wright 
^Black  Knight  and  ■  Hannali 

Dale 
Elsie    Herbert  and  Mrs.   C. 

W.  Breadmore 
Aurora  Spencer,  Vankee  and 

■Jessie  Cuthbertson 
^Prince  Olaf 

♦Sybil  Eckford 
Mrs.    Andrew    Ireland   and 
*Jeannie  Gordon 

Marbled *Helen  Pierce 

An  asterisk  denotes  a  variety  that  is  not  waved. 

Too-much-alike  Varieties. 
The  following  varieties  have  been  bracketed 
as  too  much  alike.  "  Not  more  than  one  of  the 
bracketed  varieties  shall  be  shown  on  the  same 
stand  at  any  exhibition  of  the  National  Sweet 
Pea  Society." 

White.  Pink. 

j'Ettapyke^  rCountess  Spencer 

I  Enchantress 


Maroon  and  Bronze 
Picotee  Edged 

Striped  and  Flaked  (Red  an 

Hose) 
Striped  and  Flaked  (Piayt 

and  Blue) 
Fancy     .... 
Bicolor   -        -        .        - 


I  Paradise  White 
I  Purity 

(Snowflake 
White  Spencer 
White  Waved 

Crimson  and  Scarlet. 
C  Miss  E.  F.  Draysou 
'  Queen  Alexandra 
V  Scarlet  (Baker's) 

JDodwell  F.  Browne 
King  Alfonso 
King  Edward  Spencer 
Paradise  Crimson 
I  Rosie  Gilbert 
Sunproof  Crimson 
I  Sunproof  King  Alfonso 
^  The  King  KDobbie's) 

Rose  and  Carmine, 
r  Albert  Gilbert 

Lady  Farren 
-  Marjorie  Willis 
1  Rosalind 
1, Splendour  Spencer 
'E.  J.  Castle 

George  Herbert 

John  Ingnian 

Mrs.  W.  King 

Paradise  Carmine 

Phyllis  Unwin 

Rosie  Sydenham 

Rosy  Morn 
^Spencer  Carmine 

Yellow  and  Bv.^. 
f  Harold 
James  Grieve 
-'  Mrs.  Collier 
I  Mrs.  A.  Malcolm 
[  Yellow  Hammer 
r Clara  Curtis 
1  Paradise  Cream 
I  Primrose  Paradise 
-;  Primrose  Spencer 
I  Primrose  Waved 
I  Princess  Juliana 
VWaved  Cream  (Malcolm's) 

/Flora  Norton 
i  Miss  Philbrick 
I  Anglian  Blue 
I  Flora  Norton  Spencer 
~\  Kathleen  McGowan 
l^Zephyr 
( Mid-blue 
"(Zoe 

Blush. 
'Beauty  (Bolton's) 
Bobby  K. 

Countess  of  Northbrook 
Florence  Morse  Spencer 
Lorna  Doone 
Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes 
^Princess  Victoria 
/  Blush  Spencer 
Lady  Althorp 
•I  Mrs.  T.  G.  Baker 
I  Paradise  Regained 
I  Sankey  Spencer 
rConstance  Oliver 
■{  Boris  Usher 
I  Nell  Gwynne 


I  Paradise 
I  Pink  Pearl 

Cream  Pink. 

A.  B.  Bantock 
Earl  of  Plymouth 
Holdfast  Belle 
Kitty  Lea 
Mrs.  HuKh  Dickson 
Mrs.  Henry  Bell 
Mrs.  Routzahn  Spencer 
Queen  (Sutton's) 
,Romani  Ronni 

Orange. 
,  Dazzler 
Edna  Unwin 
-,  Gordon  Ankentell 
IRuby 
Vst.  George 

fEarl  Spencer 
^  Nancy  Perkin 

Lavender. 

•Giant  Lavender  (Stark) 
1  Lady  Grizel  Hamilton 
I  Lavender  George  Herbert 
I  Masterpiece 
Mrs.  Charles  Foster 
^Jlra.  Walter  Carter 

(  Countess  of  Radnor 
\  LadyGrisel  Spencer 

Magenta, 
i  Menie  Christie 

\  Mrs.  Charles  Mander 

Mauve. 
I  Ida  Townsend 
\  Tennant  Spencer 
i  The  Marquis 

Maroon  and  Bronze. 


^Anna  Lumley 

I  Black  Knight  Spencer 

I  Douglas  Unwin 

-  Maroon  Paradise 
I  May  Gerhold 

I  Nubian 
vOthello  Spencer 

Picotee  Edged. 

-Dainty  Spencer 
I  Distinction 
I  Elsie  Herbert 
j  E.  J.  Deal 
Lady  Althorp  Improved 
'-Winifred  Deal 

TMrs.  Townsend 
(^Phenomenal 

/"Evelyn  Hemus 

-  Mabel  Cole 

I^Mrs.  C.  W.  Breadmore 

Striped  and  Flaked  (Purple 

and  Blue) 
( Hester 
1  Marbled  Blue 

I  President 

1  Senator  Spencer 


Varieties  to  be  Exclude  from  Future 
Trials. 


/  Her  Majesty 

t  Splendour 

/  Duke  of  Sutherland 

\  Monarch 

f  Lottie  Eckford 
Maid  of  Honour 

I  Ivy  Miller 
/  Stanley 

I,  Boreatton 

J  Lord  Ros  ibery 

(  Cyril  Breadmore 

j  Mrs.  Felton 

'  Dora  Cowper 

-  Devonshire  Cream 

I  Ceres 

^  Yellow  Dorothy  Eckford 
/Captain  of  the  Blues 

t  Bolton's  Blue  


/New  Countess 

\  Princess  May 

/  Modesty 

t  Duchess  of  Sutherland 

j  Sensation 

\  Countess  of  Aberdeen 

Miss  Bostock 
.Pride  of  St.  Albans 


Olive  Bolton 


ICodsall  Rose 

( Gorgeous 

\  Miss  B.  Whiley 

(Mildred  Ward 

J  Countess  of  Lathom 

1  Coral  Gem 

J  Pink  Gera 

1  Vera  Jeffrey. 


KODGERSIA   PINNATA. 

Of  the  Rodgersiae  this  is  certainly  the  most 
handsome  species,  as  may  be  seen  by  the 
accompanying     illustration.      It    grows     about 


petioles  and  inflorescence  assume  a  dull  crimson 
shade,  rendering  it  a  most  attractive  object. 

All  the  Rodgersias  are  excellent  for  the  moist 
and  more  or  less  shady  portions  of  the  rock 
garden,  and  they  may  also  be  grown  with  success 
in  the  shady  border  or  in  places  where  Ferns  are 
at  home.  They  are  all  gross  feeders,  with  thick, 
woody  rhizomes  and  large  foliage ;  therefore  they 
require  a  strong,  moist  soil,  but  with  thorough 
drainage.  The  plant  illustrated  is  growing  in  a 
peat  bed  only  just  above  the  level  of  a  small 
water-course,  and  the  water  percolates  into  the 
bed  and  keeps  it  supplied  with  moisture. 
Seeds  are  produced  in  plenty  and  they  germinate 
readily,  but  the  seedlings  are  rather  slow  in 
developing.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  sandy 
peat,  then  placed  in  a  little  heat,  and  as  soon  as 
the  seedlings  are  large  enough  they  may  be  pricked 
off  into  boxes  of  the  same  compost  and  grown  on 
in  a  cold  frame  till  large  enough  to  plant  out. 
A  white  variety  of  R.   pinnata  was  introduced 


A  BARE   PLANT,   BODGBRSIA   PINNATA,    IN   THE  BOCK   GARDEN  AT   KEW. 


o  feet  high,  with  shortly  pinnate  leaves  of 
ample  dimensions  and  good  substance.  It 
is  somewhat  later  in  starting  into  growth 
than  R.  podophylla,  but  lasts  in  perfection 
much  longer  into  the  late  autumn.  The 
leaves  also  are  not  so  liable  to  sunburn,  which 
makes  the  foliage  of  R.  podophylla  so  unsightly 
at  times.  Seeds  of  this  species  were  sent  home 
to  Kew  by  Dr.  A.  Henry  in  189S,  who  says  :  "I 
found  it  in  the  fruiting  condition  on  cliflfs  about 
8,000  feet  above  sea-level  in  the  great  mountain 
range  north  of  Mengtse  in  Yunnan."  It  flowered 
for  the  first  time  in  this  country  in  July,  1902, 
and  the  plant  illustrated  is  the  original,  which 
has  not  been  moved  since  it  was  planted  out  in  a 
seedling  state  nearly  ten  years  ago.  All  the 
basal  leaves  are  pinnate,  and  produced  on  long, 
stout  petioles,  while  those  on  the  stem  gradually 
diminish  in  size  upward  to  digitate,  ternate  and 
simple  leaf-like  bracts.  The  stems  are  stout  and 
bear  a  large  panicle  of  rose-coloured  flowers, 
which  are  slightly  fragrant.     Later  on  the  stems. 


from  Western  China  in  1904  by  Messrs.  Veitoh 
and  Sons  through  their  collector,  Mr.  Wilson.  It 
resembles  the  type  in  all  respects  except  in  the 
colour  of  its  flowers.  R.  asseulifolia,  a  plant  with 
digitate  leaves  and  panicles  of  small  white 
flowers,  was  also  introduced  at  the  same  time  as 
the  last  from  Central  China.  It  is  stated  by  Mr. 
Wilson  to  be  the  commonest  Chinese  species, 
extending  from  Central  China  to  the  Tibetan 
frontier.  The  oldest  species,  R.  podophylla,  is  a 
Japanese  plant,  and  is  pretty  well  known,  but 
not  so  frequently  seen  in  good  condition  as  it 
deserves  to  be  on  account  of  its  handsome  foliage, 
which  assumes  a  beautiful  bronzy  appearance  in 
the  autumn.  The  most  distinct  species  is  P. 
tabularis,  from  Northern  China,  with  large, 
peltate  leaves,  which  is  also  a  recent  acquisition, 
and  bears  panicles  of  small,  whitish  flowers. 
Another  but  rare  species  is  R.  sarabucifolia, 
from  the  borders  of  China  and  Tibet,  with 
long,  pinnate  leaves,  and  growing  from  3  feet  to 
4  feet  high.  W.  Irving. 


532 


THE     GARDEN. 


(October  30,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— All  turf  is  now 
very  soft,  and  so  it  is  readily  lifted, 
rolled  and  relaid  where  required. 
Although  turf  should  be  soft  when 
it  is  out,  it  is  not  wise  to  cut  and 
relay  it  during  a  very  wet  spell  of 
weather,  because  it  is  unpleasant  work  and  is  not 
as  satisfactory  as  when  done  in  drier  periods. 
All  turves  laid  and  beaten  down  while  the 
weather  is  dry  and  agreeable  remain  firmer 
than  those  which  are  put  down  in  a  very  sodden 
state.  New  lawns  which  are  to  be  formed  by 
the  laying  down  of  fresh  turves  should  be 
attended  to  at  once.  Equally  important  is  the 
work  of  making  patchy  lawns  good.  Uneven 
parts  of  the  lawn  may  be  renovated  by  the 
judicious  lifting  of  the  turf,  then  filling  in  with 
sifted  soil  and  a  few  ashes.  It  is  a  mistake  to 
place  a  thick  layer  of  very  rich  soil  under  the 
newly  laid  turves,  because  the  growth  of  the 
grass  the  following  year  is  too  strong  and  the 
patches  are  only  too  conspicuous  from  the 
remainder  of  the  lawn.  A  mossy  lawn  always 
gives  a  lot  of  trouble  to  the  owner.  If  the 
position  be  a  low-lying  one,  as  is  usually  the 
case,  and  there  are  facilities  for  draining,  every 
effort  should  be  made  to  put  in  a  drain  at  once. 
Stagnant  water  sours  the  soil  considerably  and 
favours  the  growth  of  moss.  Drain  the  plot,  and 
a  more  pleasing  condition  obtains  in  a  very  short 
time.  Examine  spring-flowering  plants  recently 
put  out,  and  if  some  of  the  leaves  are  drawn  into 
the  soil  by  earthworms,  free  them,  as  it  frequently 
happens  that  many  plants  are  lost  through  this 
cause,  small  specimens  quickly  disappearing 
altogether. 

Vegetable  Garden. — In  many  gardens,  more 
especially  those  in  towns,  I  have  seen  Broccoli, 
Autumn  Giant  Cauliflowers,   and  several  other 


-ON  THE  LEFT  IS  SHOWN  A  GROWTH  OF 
A  SHRUBBY  VERONICA  SUITABLE  FOR 
MAKING  INTO  A  CUTTING,  AND  ON 
THE  RIGHT  A  PREPARED  CUTTING  18 
DEPICTED. 


kinds  of  plants  grown  for  winter  use  quite 
destroyed  by  the  caterpillars  of  the  large  and  the 
small  white  Cabbage  butterflies.  I  was  surprised 
to  see  so  many  butterflies  about  during  such  a 
cold,  wet  summer.  In  my  own  garden  they  have 
been  very  numerous,  and  while  visiting  some 
friends  in  Essex  recently  the  same  feature  was 
to  be  seen.  In  gardens  in  some  parts  of  that 
county  excellent  crops  of  winter  greens  were 
to  be  seen,  and  it  is  very  disheartening  to 
realise  that  the  latter  are  so  liable  to  be  destroyed 
or  badly  damaged  by  the  onslaught  of  myriads 
of  caterpillars.  After  the  end  of  October  the 
pests  will  not  do  much  damage  to  green  crops, 
and  so  every  effort  should  be  made  to  fill  up  gaps 
with  strong  Kale  and  spring  Cabbages.  Store 
Beet  without  delay  now,  carefully  lifting  the 
roots  and  placing  them,  packed  safely  in  sand, 
ashes,  or  ordinary  soil,  in  cool  sheds.  Remove 
all  decaying  Turnips  from  the  beds  and  decay- 
ing leaves  from  vegetable  plants  generally. 

Fruit  Garden. — Peach  and  Nectarine  trees 
trained  on  outside  walls  must  receive  some 
attention  now.  If  there  is  any  doubt  about  the 
proper  moisture  of  the  border,  do  not  hesitate  to 
give  a  thorough  soaking  of  clear  water.  Remove 
all  yellow  and  fallen  leaves  from  the  trees  and 
near  them,  and  burn  them  so  as  to  destroy  any 
insects  hiding  in  them.  The  present  is  a  very 
good  time  for  filling  the  joints  in  walls  where  the 
mortar  has  dropped  out,  and  in  order  to  do  this 
it  will  be  necessary  to  unfasten  the  branches 
from  the  wall.  Take  care  of  the  flower-buds 
when  manipulating  the  branches,  and  tie  them 
in  very  small  bundles,  not  large  ones  and  thus 
prevent  the  light  and  air  reaching  them. 

Oreenhouae  and  Frames.  —  Winter-flowering 
Begonias  must  be  kept  in  as  light  a  position  as 
possible  at  this  season,  and  be  fed  with  clear  soot- 
water  to  deepen  the  green  colour  in  the  leaves. 
Cyclamen  plants  should  be  grown  on  shelves 
near  the  glass,  especially  those  specimens  that  are 
now  flowering  freely.  Plants  both  in  frames  and 
houses  that  have  not  been  potted  recently  and 
are  now  filling  their  pots  with  roots  may  receive 
some  support  from  stimulants  ;  Palms  are  much 
benefited  if  weak  doses  are  given  once  every 
week.  B. 


INCREASING  THE  SHRUBBY 
VERONICAS. 
The  shrubby  Speedwells  embrace  a  very  large 
number  of  most  interesting  plants  that  are  less 
known  in  our  gardens  than  their  undoubted 
merits  and  beauty  deserve.  They  comprise  some 
very  beautiful  ornamental  evergreen  shrubs, 
mostly  of  New  Zealand  origin,  and  may  be 
briefly  described  as  hardy  and  half-hardy  ever- 
green flowering  shrubs.  Some  authorities  aver 
that  none  of  the  plants  are  quite  hardy  in  all 
parts  of  England,  and  for  this  reason  they 
should  be  planted  in  sunny  rockeries,  borders 
and  beds  near  the  sea-coast  in  the  south  of  this 
country  and  in  warm,  sheltered  quarters,  inland, 
south  of  the  Midlands.  The  shrubby  species 
must  not  be  confounded  with  the  herbaceous 
species,  as  they  are  quite  distinct  and  different 
from  the  latter.  This  subject  is  said  to  derive 
its  common  name  of  Speedwell  from  the  fact  of 
its  corolla  falling  off  and  flying  away  as  soon  as 
it  is  gathered. 

The  New  Zealand  Veronicas  are  not  really 
difficult  to  cultivate,  and  they  are  not  particularly 
fastidious  as  regards  soil.  When  planted  in 
sandy  loam  or  good  ordinary  soil  the  plants 
invariably  do  well.  One  of  the  hardiest  of  the 
New  Zealand  species  is  V.   Traversii,  an  erect- 


growing  shrub  with  small,  narrow  leaves  and  lilac 
white  blossoms  ;  this  shrub  is  of  neat  growth  and 
attains  a  height  of  from  ,3  feet  to  4  feet.  It  is  a 
very  handsome  plant.  Of  this  type  there  are 
others  that  differ  in  size  and  also  in  some  other 
respects  ;  these  are  V.  monticola,  V.  anomala, 
V.  Colensoi  and  V.  pimeleoides.  The  most 
distinct  of  the  hardier  species  are  those  known 
as  the  Whipcord  Veronicas. 

The  best  of  this  valuable  group  are  the 
following  :  V.  salicornoides,  which  is  also 
known  as  V.  eupressoides  var.  variabilis.  This 
is  a  beautiful  dwarf  shrub  forming  a  neat,  low- 
growing  bush  not  exceeding  10  inches  in  height. 
The  plant  is  sparsely  flowered,  and  the  blossoms 
are  white  with  pink  anthers.  V.  eupressoides, 
height  2  feet  to  3  feet,  the  flowers  violet 
tinted,  is  a  typical  variety.  Other  interesting 
Veronicas  are  V.  Hectori,  V.  Armstrongii  and 
V.  lycopodioides. 

Less  hardy  kinds  worthy  of  special  mention, 
among  others,  are  the  hybrid  New  Zealand 
Veronica  Andersonii  —  this  plant  attains  a 
height  of  about  '2  feet  and  bears  pretty  bluish 


2. — A      POT      FILLED      WITH      CUTTINGS,     THESE 
BEING   ALLOWED   PLENTY  OF  ROOM. 

violet  flowers  in  summer — and  V.  Andersonii 
variegata,  a  charming  variegated  form  of  the 
original.  Other  good  kinds  are  V.  salicifolia,  a 
blush  white  variety  flowering  in  summer,  height 
S  feet  to  6  feet,  and  V.  elliptica  (syn.  V. 
deoussata),  white,  flowering  in  summer,  height 
3  feet  to  S  feet.  Of  the  hybrid  kinds  that  can 
be  recommended  the  following  should  be  noted  : 
V.  Celestial,  light  blue  ;  V.  Purple  Queen  ;  V. 
imperialis,  bright  amaranth  red  ;  V.  Jardin 
Fleuri,  deep  carmine  ;  and  V.  Reine  des 
Blanches,  white.  These  less  hard_y  kinds  are 
well  fitted  for  cultivation  in  a  cool  conserva- 
tory, where  these  easily  grown  shrubs  invariably 
do  well. 

The  beginner  naturally  asks.  When  may  these 
Veronicas  be  propagated,  and  what  methods  should 
be  adopted  ?  Autumn  is,  without  a  doubt,  the 
best  period  in  which  to  propagate  this  subject. 
At  that  time  the  necessary  growths  are  abundant 
and  in  a  condition  that  they  may  be  dealt  with 
quite  easil}'.  In  Fig.  1,  on  the  left,  is  shown  a 
fairly  firm  growth  a  lew  inches  in  length  with 
elements  of  promise  in  it.  On  the  right  of  the 
picture  a  cutting  is  shown  properly  prepared 
and  ready  for  insertion.  In  the  preparation  of 
the  cutting  the  lower  leaves  have  been  removed, 
and  to  complete  the  operation  the  stem  of  the 
cutting  has  been  cut  through  with  a  sharp  knife 
just  below  a  joint;  it  is  from  this  joint  that  the 
roots  are  emitted. 

Having  prepared  the  cuttings,  the  next  thing 
is  to  insert  them  in  suitable  soil  and  in  conditions 
that  will  promote  the  development  of  roots.     A 


October  30,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


533 


3. — TWO  EXAMPLES  OF  ROOTED  CUTTINGS, 
SHOWING  THE  EBANCHIN(i  ROOTS,  WHICH 
WILL  QUICKLY  TAKE  HOLD  OF  NEW- 
SOIL. 

cold  frame  will  answer  the  purpose  of  propaga- 
tion admirably,  and  if  an  even  bed  of  sandy  soil 
be  made  up  therein  and  made  firm,  the  cuttings 
may  be  inserted  in  rows  1  inch  or  2  inches  apart 
with  the  greatest  celerity.  The  cold  frame 
answers  the  purposes  of  large  growers  admirably  ; 
but  I  am  aware  that  there  are  a  large  number  of 
readers  who  may,  perhaps,  need  to  raise  only  a 
few  plants  of  some  of  the  better  or  more  inter- 
esting kinds.  In  that  case  cuttings  inserted  in 
pots  will  answer  their  purpose  much  better,  as 
the  pots  can  be  plunged  in  a  small  cold  frame  or 
else  stood  on  the  shelves  of  the  cool  greenhouse 
or  conservatory.  Ten  to  a  dozen  cuttings  may 
be  accommodated  in  a  6-inch  pot,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  2.  Before  inserting  the  cuttings  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  place  a  layer  of  silver  sand  on  the 
surface  soil,  so  that  as  holes  are  made  for  in- 
serting the  cuttings  a  small  quantity  of  sand  is 
carried  to  the  bottom  of  the  holes,  on  which 
each  cutting  must  rest.  Be  sure  that  the  soil 
is  pressed  firmly  to  the  base  of  each  cutting  as  it 
is  dealt  with,  and  there  will  then  be  little  fear  of 
the  result.  Label  and  water  in  wath  water  from 
a  fine-rosed  can,  and  this  part  of  the  work  will 
then  be  completed. 

In  course  of  time  the  cuttings  will  have 
rooted,  and  this  fact  will  be  evident  by  the  new 
growth  visible  at  the  apex  of  the  rooted  cutting. 
Before  the  roots  get  entangled,  and  while  it  is 
easy  to  separate  the  young  plants,  they  should 
be  pricked  off  in  specially  prepared  beds  in  a 
warm,  sheltered  quarter  of  the  garden  when 
severe  weather  of  the  winter  is  a  thing  of  the 
past.  Those  who  have  time  and  accommodation 
may  utilise  the  services  of  a  cold  frame,  or  else 
pot  up  the  young  plants  to  be  grown  on  in  this 
manner.  Fig.  3  is  a  good  representation  of  two 
rooted  cuttings  ;  with  such  material  there  should 
be  little  difficulty  in  growing  pretty  plants. 
Fig.  4  represents  a  young  shrubby  Speedwell 
that  is  growing  away  vigorously  and  making  a 
beautiful,  shapely  little  plant.  Such  specimens 
may  be  raised  in  the  manner  I  have  indicated, 
and  with  the  aid  of  a  cold  frame  they  may 
be  controlled  in  their  earlier  stages  with  the 
greatest  ease.  This  little  specimen  was  raised 
in  hardy  fashion,  planted  out  subsequently  in  a 
nursery  bed,  and  finally  placed  in  a  pot  5  inches 
in  diameter.  D.  B.  C. 


CYCLAMEN.— OLD  AND  YOUNG  GORMS. 

As  decorative  plants  for  the  greenhouse  and 
conservatory  these  take  a  high  place.  Un- 
doubtedly young  plants,  when  strong,  are  much 
superior  to  old  ones,  but  the  latter  when  well 
grown  are  exceedingly  useful.  No  doubt 
hundreds  of  readers  of  The  Garden  possess  a 
number  of  old  and  young  plants  and  wish  to 
make  the  most  of  them.  In  the  first  place,  I 
would  point  out  the  advisability  of  keeping  all 
the  plants  together  on  one  stage  in  the  house, 
and  not  place  thei"  singly  among  the  other 
kinds  of  plants  in  the  structure.  At  least  this 
course  ought  to  be  taken  up  to  a  certain  stage, 
namely,  when  the  flowers  are  nearly  all 
developed.  By  keening  the  plants  together  the 
cultivator  can  attend  to  their  requirements  more 
easily  and  so  give  them  the  best  treatment. 
Old  eorms,  if  perfectly  healthy,  will  produce  a 
large  number  of  flowers,  though  both  flowers  and 
leaves  may  be  smaller  than  those  borne  by  more 
vigorous  plants.  Directly  the  pots  are  well  filled 
with  roots  weak  doses  of  clear  soot-water  should 
be  given  twice  each  week,  and  be  then  followed 
by  judicious  feeding  with  artificial  manures. 
The  younger  plants  will,  of  course,  be  growing 
in  much  smaller  pots  than  the  old  ones,  but  they, 
too,  must  be  fed.  Cyclamen  plants  like  the 
ammonia  arising  from  soot,  and  the  best  way  to 
apply  it  is  to  make  some  soot- water  and,  when  it 
is  quite  clear,  syringe  some  of  it  underneath  the 
plants  on  the  stage,  wetting  thoroughly  the 
pots  and  the  stage,  but  not  the  leaves  any  more 
than  can  be  helped.  Where  the  plants  are 
growing  on  cinders  on  a  stage,  a  small  quantity 
of  dry  soot  may  be  sprinkled  on  the  cinders 
once  a  fortnight.  So  treated,  Cyclamen  plants 
will  not  get  infested  by  thrips  or  red  spider,  and 
both  the  foliage  and  the  flowers  will  assume  a 
richer  colour.  A  temperature  of  58°  by  day  and 
of  50"  to  55"  at  night  will  do  nicely. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


AZALEAS  IN  POTS. 
Indian  Azaleas  require  very  careful  management 
when  grown  in  pots  under  glass,  and  the  inex- 
perienced cultivator  often  loses  nice  specimens 
through  bad  watering.  In  the  first  place,  I 
would  remind  beginners  that  the  plants  require 
cool  treatment  but  security  from  frost,  though 
they  will  force  splendidly  ;  but  when  subjected 
to  a  forcing  temperature,  frequent  syringings 
are  necessary  and  also  a  moist  atmosphere 
generally.  It  is  when  these  plants  are  grown  on 
open  stages  immediately  above  the  hot-water 
pipes  that  damage  occurs  through  bad  watering. 
The  roots  of  the  Azalea  form  a  thick  network  in 
the  compost,  and  as  the  compost  is  mostly  of  a 
light  fibrous  nature  itself,  it  soon  gets  dust-dry, 
and  then  ordinary  watering  from  a  watering-can 
is  practically  useless,  the  centre  of  the  ball  of 
soil  remaining  dry.  The  only  remedy  is  to 
immerse  the  pot  in  a  pailful  of  water  for  at  least 
twelve  hours.  It  would  be  wiser  to  leave  it  in 
the  water  for  twenty-four  hours.      Shamrock. 


4. — A  SMALL  PLANT  OF  ONE  OF  THE  SHRUBBY 
VERONICAS  AS  LIFTED  FROM  A  NURSERY 
BED. 


The  New  Rockery. — If  the  amateur  gardener 
decides  to  construct  a  rockery,  much  thought 
must  be  given  to  the  various  details  connected 
with  the  work  before  any  of  the  latter  is  actually 
commenced.  Too  often  we  find  a  rockery  con- 
structed in  some  out-of-the-way  corner  of  the 
garden  where  neither  the  sunshine  nor  the  light 
reaches  it  as  it  should  do.  Of  course,  Ferns  and 
a  few  other  kinds  of  plants  thrive  fairly  well  in 
the  partial  shade  ;  but  for  the  majority  of  suit- 
able rookwork  plants  full  light  and  much  sun- 
shine are  absolutely  necessary.  Although  the 
rockery  must  be  raised  above  the  ground  level, 
it  is  not  really  necessary  to  construct  a  high  one. 
Some  persons  have  an  idea  that  the  plants 
usually  grown  on  a  rockery  do  not  require  much 
moisture,  and,  furthermore,  that  the  stones  used 
help  to  keep  the  soil  dry.  Both  are  mistaken 
ideas.  Of  course,  many  kinds  of  rookery  plants 
do  not  require  a  lot  of  moisture,  but  there  are 
others  that  do,  and  the  stones  used  afford  much 
moisture  and  also  assist  the  growth  of  the  plants 
by  preventing  the  undue  evaporation  of  moisture. 
The  best  position  for  a  general  rockery  is  one 
well  open  to  the  sunshine  in  a  part  of  the  garden 
where  the  surroundings  are  not  formal,  but  in 
keeping  with  the  outlines  of  the  rockery  itself. 

How  TO  Build  the  Rookery. — A  heap  of 
stones  partially  covered  by  loose  loam  does  not 
constitute  a  rockery.  Instead  of  supplying 
nearly  all  the  soil  after  the  stones,  or  pieces  of 
rock,  have  been  placed  in  position,  it  should  be 
the  first  to  be  put  down ;  then  the  stones  must 
be  fixed  very  firmly  in  the  soil,  some  of  them 
being  almost  buried,  others  half  buried,  and  some 
about  three-parts  buried.  There  will  be  dells  in 
the  rockery — some  stones  must  be  laid  down  so 
as  to  present  a  flat  top,  or  nearly  a  flat  one  in  most 
instances — others  will  have  sharp  points  sticking 
out  of  the  soil,  and  still  more  pieces  of  rook  will 
be  so  placed  that  neat  pockets  of  soil  will  be 
formed  between  them.  The  work  of  fixing  the 
rooks  and  the  soil  should  be  completed  by  the 
placing  of  some  duly  prepared  compost  between 
the  various  stones.  For  Ferns,  Heaths  and 
similar  plants  some  peat  must  be  mixed  with 
the  ordinary  soil  before  the  stones  are  placed  in 
position,  and  more  of  the  same  kind  of  compost 
should  be  added  after  to  complete  the  work.  If 
peat  be  scarce,  some  nice  leaf -soil  may  be  added 
to  some  of  it ;  the  two  ingredients,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  sand,  are  very  suitable  for  many 
kinds  of  plants  possessing  Gne,  fibrous  roots. 

How  TO  Put  in  the  Plants. — If  the  rockery 
is  a  small  one,  groups  of  plants  should  only  be 
formed  of  some  of  the  smaller-growing  kinds  ; 
but  if  the  rockery  is  a  large  one,  then  bold 
groups  of  many  kinds  of  suitable  plants  will 
look  very  charming.  Tiny  specimens  may  be 
held  in  position  by  the  placing  of  small  stones 
on  a  portion  of  their  roots,  as  more  roots  would 
quickly  grow  under  the  pebbles.  The  large  speci- 
mens must  be  planted  between  the  larger  pieces 
of  rooks.  Sedums  and  similar  small  spreading 
subjects  should  be  placed  in  the  hollows  on  the 
top  of  large,  flat  stones,  where  they  will  quickly 
spread  and  form  a  dense  carpet.  The  following 
are  a  few  suitable  kinds  of  plants,  namely : 
Double  and  single  flowered  Arabis,  Achillea 
tomentosa,  Alyssum  saxatile,  Adonis  vemalis, 
Ferns,  very  dwarf-growing  shrubs,  Aquilegias, 
Arenarias,  Aubrietias,  Foxgloves,  Campanulas, 
Gentiana  acaulis.  Irises,  Edelweiss,  dwarf  Phlox, 
Oenothera  macrooarpa,  Sedums,  Saxifrages, 
Dianthuses,  London  Pride,  Sempervivums, 
Cerastium  tomentosum  and  Thrift. 

Cuttings  of  Bedding  Plants. — The  present 
is  a  very  trying  time  for  cuttings  of  bedding-out 
plants  in  town  gardens,  especially  where  fogs 
prevail.  Shelves  in  greenhouses  which  can  be 
heated  are  good  positions  for  many  kinds  of 
plants,  and  as  Zonal  Pelargoniums  are  not  yet 
well  rooted,  a  very  moist  atmosphere  would 
prove  harmful.  Avon. 


534 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  30,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower    Garden. 

PLANTING  CLIMBERS.  —  This  work 
should  be  pushed  forward  as  fast  as 
possible,  selecting  the  most  suitable 
positions  for  the  more  choice  and 
tender  kinds.  The  station  for  each 
plant  must  be  thoroughly  prepared 
and  the  soil  rendered  of  a  suitable  nature. 
Ample  drainage  is  most  essential,  and  the  land 
should  be  broken  up  several  feet  deep  to  allow 
abundance  of  space  for  the  roots  to  travel,  at  the 
same  time  making  preparation  for  protection 
agiinst  severe  frost  of  all  those  plants  that  are 
likely  to  get  injured.  Roses  of  the  wiehuraiana 
type  make  such  rapid  growth  that  they  may  be 
freely  planted  both  for  poles  and  for  the  covering 
of  old  buildings,  fences  and  walls. 

Phloxes. — The  present  time  is  suitable  to  lift 
and  replant  these.  For  the  production  of  large 
flowers  young  plants  are  the  best,  and  although 
they  may  be  struck  from  small  cuttings  springing 
up  from  the  base,  some  capital  plants  can  be 
quickly  raised  by  digging  up  the  outside  young 
growths  and  planting  them  in  good  rich  soil, 
allowing  ample  space  tor  each  plant  to  fully 
develop  during  the  summer.  The  old  stools  may 
then  be  thrown  away. 

Beddini/  Calceolarias  miy  still  be  propagated, 
selecting  young  soft  tips  and  inserting  them  in 
sandy  soil  resting  on  a  layer  of  manure,  over 
which  is  placed  hand-lights  or  cold  frames  to 
protect  them  in  sharp  weather  and  keep  the 
cuttings  moist. 

Dahlias. — As  soon  as  the  tops  of  these  have 
been  out  by  frost  the  tubers  will  need  to  be  lifted 
and  stored  for  the  winter.  Let  each  variety  be 
labelled,  and  in  a  manner  that  the  labels  cannot 
get  removed.  Store  them  in  any  out-of-the-way 
place  where  frost  cannot  reach  them.  If  placed 
side  by  side  under  the  potting-bench  and  covered 
with  leaf-mould  or  ashes  they  will  keep  sound 
till  spring  without  further  trouble. 

Habdy  Fruits. 

Apricots. — These  require  good  loam,  plenty  of 
chalk  or  lime  rubbish,  and  in  the  warmer  parts  a 
western  aspect  is  preferable.  The  soil  should  be 
made  firm,  the  drainage  good  and  the  holes  much 
larger  than  the  length  of  roots  at  the  time  of 
planting.  Good  varieties  are  Moor  Park,  Shipley, 
Hemskirk  and  Royal.  Young  trees  which  have 
been  planted  a  few  years,  and  which  are  growing 
too  strong  to  be  fruitful,  will  benefit  greatly  by 
having  their  roots  lifted,  the  strong  ones  shortened 
a  little  and  then  replanted  at  various  depths, 
scattering  a  little  fine  soil  and  wood-ashes 
among  the  roots  as  the  work  proceeds. 

Plums  and  all  stone  fruits,  where  heavy  mulch- 
ings have  been  applied,  will  be  all  the  better  for 
having  a  few  cans  of  lime-water  given  the  roots 
at  this  season.  Keep  on  with  all  lifting  and 
root-pruning  as  fast  as  time  will  allow,  and  mulch 
with  strawy  manure  to  protect  the  roots  from 
frost. 

Vboetablb    Garden. 

Cauliflowers. — Take  these  up  when  the  heads 
are  quite  small  and  lay  them  rather  close 
together  in  trenches  where  a  little  protection 
can  be  given  should  sharp  frost  set  in.  By  going 
over  the  plants  twice  weekly  the  supply  may  be 
greatly  lengthened.  Veitch's  Autumn  Giant  and 
Protecting  are  useful  for  late  supplies.  Young 
seedling  plants  raised  from  seed  sown  five  weeks 
ago  will  need  to  be  taken  up  and  planted  in 
cold  frames,  where  protection  is  easily  afforded. 
These  plants  with  care  prove  useful  for  an  early 
supply,  although  good  crops  can  be  had  by 
sowing  seed  in  heat  in  spring  of  the  Early 
Snowball  and  Erfurt  types. 


Lettuces. — Plant  plenty  of  young  seedlings 
under  hand  lights  and  in  cold  frames,  and  take 
up  any  which  are  fit  for  use  and  plant  them 
where  they  can  be  protected.  In  the  absence  of 
frames  a  great  deal  may  be  done  by  planting  the 
largest  at  the  foot  of  a  south  wall ;  large  quantities 
may  be  put  in  a  rather  small  space.  Endive  may 
be  treated  in  the  same  way. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Indoor  Plant  Dbpartment. 

Stove  Plants. — Shading  having  now  been  dis- 
pensed with,  the  glass  and  woodwork  of  all 
houses  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned,  so  that  the 
maximum  amount  of  light  may  be  admitted  to 
the  plants.  These,  after  being  cleared  of  insects, 
may  then  be  arranged  to  the  best  possible  advan- 
tage, according  to  the  contour  and  capacity  of 
the  structures  and  the  classes  of  plants  grown, 
any  of  these  not  having  completed  their  growth 
being  afforded  positions  at  the  warmest  end  of 
the  house. 

Crotons  and  Draccnas  inserted  as  cuttings  a 
few  weeks  ago  will  now  have  become  rooted.  If 
still  plunged  in  a  hot-bed,  care  must  be  exercised 
in  their  removal,  if  possible  placing  the  pots  upon 
the  heating  material  rather  than  in  it  for  a  few 
days,  or  until  the  roots  get  inured  to  the  change. 

Pandanus  Veitchii. — Suckers  of  this  plant 
strike  root  quickly  in  a  high  and  rather  dry 
temperature.  Highly  coloured  specimens  are 
very  susceptible  to  damp,  and  if  used  for  table 
or  room  decoration  are  apt  to  deteriorate 
quickly  ;  hence  young  plants  as  successions  are 
useful.  Keep  up  a  supply  of  Panicum,  Pilea 
muscosa  and  Tradescantia,  which,  while  being 
useful  as  an  edging  upon  stages,  are  doubly  so 
for  house  decorative  purposes  when  flowers  get 
scarcer. 

Eucharis  growing  freely  should  have  a  little 
stimulant  occasionally.  A  bag  of  soot  immersed 
in  a  tub  of  water,  using  the  liquid  when  quite 
clear,  is  safe  and  effectual. 

Caladiums,  Olo.vinias  and  Achimenes  are  bast 
dried  off  gradually,  while  others  that  have  quite 
lost  their  foliage  may  be  packed  upon  their  sides 
in  some  convenient  but  out-of-sight  position 
free  from  drip  and  very  drying  influences ;  for 
instance,  close  proximity  to  hot- water  pipes. 

Palms  at  all  potbound  should  receive  stimu- 
lants regularly.  Soot- water  alternated  with 
some  favoured  artificial  fertiliser  will  supply 
their  wants  admirably  and  maintain  health  and 
vigour.  On  the  other  hand,  plants  recently 
disturbed  or  that  are  known  to  be  but  moderately 
rooted  must  be  watered  with  care,  never  giving 
driblets,  but  thoroughly  soak  the  ball  when 
necessary  to  do  so  and  rest  content  until  dryness 
again  ensues,  which  at  this  season  and  under 
proper  treatment  as  to  heat  and  atmospheric 
moisture  may  not  occur  for  many  days.  The 
night  temperature  of  the  stove  should  now  be 
about  65°,  the  variations,  higher  or  lower,  being 
in  accordance  with  outside  conditions,  the  day 
temperature  from  fire-heat  alone  being  70°  to  75°, 
and  the  intermediate  houie  being  kept  at  about 
10°  lower  all  round. 

Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Apples,  Pears  and  Plums.  — Any  root-pruning 
of  these  deemed  necessary  should  be  carried  out 
at  once.  Strong-growing  but  unfruitful  trees 
are  best  operated  on  from  one  side  only  at 
present,  leaving  the  other  till  some  future 
occasion.  To  commence  take  out  a  trench 
18  inches  wide  a  few  feet  from  the  base  of  the 
tree,  according  to  the  judgment  formed  of  the 
extent  of  root-run.  Into  the  trench  carefully 
fork  the  soil  from  about  the  roots  until  the 
base  of  the  tree  is  undermined.  Sever  all  roots 
found  taking  a  direct  downward  course  and 
moderately  shorten  all  others,  afterwards  making 


a  firm  bed  of  soil,  upon  which  spread  these  out 
in  a  nearly  horizontal  form  and  cover  the  more 
fibrous  ones  with  a  little  new  soil,  and  again 
replace  the  earth  first  removed. 

Renocating  Trees. — It  not  infrequently  happens 
that  trees  assimilate  the  supply  of  nutriment 
within  their  reach  and  exhaustion  follows.  With 
such  a  supply  of  good  loam,  bone-meal  and  lime 
rubbish  should  be  prepared.  After  stripping 
most  of  the  old  soil  from  about  the  roots,  with  a 
knife  freely  gash  the  larger  of  these  on  the  upper 
side  to  facilitate  the  emission  of  new  roots,  and 
again  cover  over  with  prepared  soil  to  a  depth  of 
several  inches,  upon  which  a  layer  of  well-rotted 
farmyard  manure  may  be  spread  before  finishing 
off  with  the  thrown-out  soil. 

Planting. — As  this  is  best  done  in  November, 
preparations  should  be  undertaken  as  time  and 
weather  permit.  Any  good  fresh  soil,  but 
preferably  the  top  spit  from  old  pasture-land,  is 
best.  The  herbage  being  mown  from  this  as 
close  as  possible,  it  may  be  dug  out  from 
3  inches  to  4  inches  in  thickness  and  be  roughly 
divided  with  the  spade.  According  to  its  texture 
burnt  ash,  old  mortar  or  even  coarse  sand,  if 
very  retentive,  may  then  be  added  and  all  turned 
several  times.  Placed  in  a  large  heap  and  pro- 
tected if  necessary  from  e.^cessive  rainfall,  the 
root-fibres  will  soon  decay  and  the  compost  be 
ready  for  use  when  wanted.  In  the  meantime 
the  stations  for  the  trees  may  be  prepared  ;  if 
against  walls,  by  digging  out  holes  4  feet  or 
5  feet  diameter  the  half  circle,  and  rather  more 
than  this  if  in  the  open,  putting  aside  the  best 
soil  and  breaking  up  the  substratum  deeply. 
Jambs  Dat. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacharn. ) 

Galloway  House,  Garlietten,  Wigtownshire. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
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RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Ans^veps.— rAe  Editor  intendg 
to  make  THE  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
** Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  commun,ica- 
tions  shmtld  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
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W.C,  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  xtsed  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
6c  o?i  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Rootini:  Privet  Cuttings  ( Wichford). 

Cuttings  of  the  common  Privet  strike  readily  if 
cut  into  lengths  of  about  8  inches  and  planted 
during  the  present  month  in  a  rather  gritty  soil. 
Any  ripened  growths  would  do,  and  it  is  not 
necessary  that  the  cuttings  should  all  possess  a 
heel.  The  cuttings  would  be  best  kept  in  the 
cutting-beds  two  years  before  planting  out  to 
form  a  hedge. 

PsBony-floweped  Dalilias  (/.  A.).^ 
As  the  Pseony-flowered  section  of  Dahlias  grow 
rather  tall  and  are  of  loose  habit,  we  could 
not  advise  you  to  plant  them  in  a  windswept 
position.  Really  the  Dahlia,  a  tender  and 
brittle  plant,  is  very  badly  fitted  for  such  a 
position.  But  if  Dahlias  are  desired,  far  better 
grow  the  more  dwarf,  compact-habited  Pompons, 
the  flowers  of  which  are  excellent  for  cutting 
and  last  a  long  time  in  water.  There  is  not  the 
least  kind  of  connexion  between  Pseonies  and 
Dahlias  ;  such  a  connexion  is  impossible.  The 
P.iony-flowered  Dahlias  were  so  named  because 
the  flowers  are  large,  loose,  generally  single  or 
semi-double,  and  much  resemble  those  of  many 
of  our  garden  Pjeonies.  The  strain  o»me 
originally  from  Holland. 


October  30,  1909.J 


THE    GAUDEN. 


535 


Perennial  plants  for  draughty 
garden  (A.  Johnson).  —  You  will  find  the 
following  plants  of  service,  unless  the  position  is 
more  than  usually  exposed  to  draughts  or 
cutting  winds :  Sedum  spectabile,  Aster  Amellus, 
A.  alpinus,  Senecio  Doronieum,  Campanula  car- 
patica,  C.  c.  alba,  C.  Moerheimii,  C.  persieifolia 
\n  blue  and  white,  Statice  inoana,  S.  latifolia, 
Helleborus  niger,  Rudbeckia  Newmanii  (single 
and  double),  Pieonia  oflEcinalis  fl.-pl.,  Lilium 
pyrenaieum.  Phlox  canadensis,  any  of  the  Violas 
or  Tufted  Pansies,  London  Pride,  Aubrietias, 
Arnebia  echioides,  Clove  Carnations  (some  of  the 
best  we  have  seen  have  occupied  such  positions), 
Muscari  oonicum,  such  dwarf  Day  Lilies  as 
flava  and  Dumortieri,  and,  by  no  means  least, 
Megasea  cordifolia  purpurea.  If  to  these  you 
desire  to  add  more,  try  the  following  Flag  Irises  : 
I.  Darius,  I.  Mrs.  Darwin  and  I.  Princess  of 
Wales.  Solidago  Virgaurea  aurea,  Hepaticas, 
and  blue,  white  and  pink  flowered  Squills  would 
all  be  useful,  while,  perhaps.  Aster  Isevigatus 
would  prove  excellent  in  every  way. 

Fseonies  (il.  W.).—The  following  are  all  good  and 
showy  varieties  ia  the  colours  named  :  Comte  de  Nanteuil, 
Duchesse  de  Nemours,  grandiflora  rosea,  Ne  Plus  Ultra, 
M.  RousselloD,  Nymph,  Canari,  Belle  Douaissienne, 
Duchesse  d'Orleans,  formosa,  Triomphe  de  Paris  and 
Irma. 

Information  about  Chleopy  (Coinbi'-llilly— 
'Ihere  is  not,  so  far  as  we  know,  an  improved  garden  form 
of  the  above  that  is  more  serviceable  for  its  colour  than 
the  typical  species.  As  a  late  blue-flowering  subject  the 
plant  is  most  welcome,  and  any  improvement  thereon 
would  be  doubly  so.  There  is  no  reason  why  the  wild  form 
should  not  be  planted  in  the  garden  with  excellent  results. 

Plants  fop  ornamental  pots  (.P.  B.  T.).— We 
hardly  know  what  to  suggest,  much  less  to  recommend, 
owing  to  the  small  size  of  the  pots,  though,  perhaps,  one 
of  the  Aubrietias  would  probably  succeed  as  well  as  most 
things.  In  such  a  position  and  with  pots  so  small, 
the  amount  of  dryness  and  exposure  would  tell  heavily 
apainst  any  success,  and  the  best  things  we  know  of  are 
Wallflowers  and  Snapdragons  in  self  colours,  Aubrietias 
or  Alyssum  saxatile  compactum,  all  of  which  thrive  quite 
well  in  wall  crevices  and  in  very  dry  positions. 

Information  about  Phloxes  and  Antlp- 
phlnums  (Phlox,  7.j').— The  Phloxes  are  true  perennials 
and  can  be  left  in  the  border  with  great  advantage. 
Give  them  a  mulching  of  manure,  if  possible,  and  frequent 
doses  of  manure-water  when  the  plants  are  in  growth 
next  season.  It  will  depend  upon  the  severity  of  the 
winter  and  the  position  the  plants  occupy  whether  you 
can  save  these  or  not.  In  any  case  you  can  save  seeds  of 
any  you  may  desire,  and  the  plants  may  also  be  preserved 
if  lifted  and  firmly  planted  into  boxes.  If  the  position  is 
fairly  sheltered,  let  them  remain  where  they  are,  and  take 
the  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe  and  sow  a  few  weeks  later. 

Tpansplanting  Pampas  Gpass  (T.  A.  S.). 
You  may  transplant  your  Pampas  Grass  providing  you 
exercise  ordinary  care  and  leave  the  work  until  late 
next  spring.  April  is  a  very  good  time,  just  as  new 
growths  are  being  formed  and  roots  are  active.  If  you  do 
the  work  at  that  season,  the  plant  will  show  few  bad 
efTects  if  you  move  a  good  ball  of  earth  with  it.  If,  how- 
ever, you  do  the  work  during  winter,  it  is  probable  that 
the  plant  will  suffer  severely,  for  the  roots  will  be  unable 
to  perform  their  proper  work  for  a  period  of  several 
months.  If  you  wish  to  increase  your  stock,  you  can  cut 
pieces  off  the  plant  in  April,  pot  them  and  stand  them  in 
a  warm  house  until  growth  is  active. 

Infopmatlon  about  Tpee  Paeonies  (Pceony). 
If  30U  desire  to  grow  these  Pfeonies  in  the  open,  you 
should  select  a  position  sheltered  from  north  and  east,  as 
the  cutting  winds  from  these  quarters  in  the  early  months 
of  the  year  are  more  harmful  than  frosts.  The  spot 
should,  so  far  as  is  possible,  be  a  naturally  sheltered  one, 
and  given  this  and  a  depth  of  2S  feet  of  rich  loam,  old 
mortar  rubbish  and  charcoal,  there  is  no  reason  why 
success  should  not  follow.  If  you  are  devoting  a  bed  to 
these  things,  the  plants  should  be  arranged  at  3  feet 
apart,  but  you  may  plant  good  Daffodils  in  the  inter- 
vening spaces.  You  ask  for  a  few  of  the  best  varieties, 
but  you  may  not  be  aware  that  some  of  these  are  expen- 
sive. If  too  much  so,  write  us  again.  Lady  Sarah 
Wilson,  Reine  Elizabeth,  Lord  Roberts,  Cecil  Rhodes, 
Countess  Cadogan  and  Queen  Alexandra.  It  is  pleasant 
to  reply  to  your  question,  as  the  Tree  Pseony  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  flowers,  yet  not  often  grown  in  our 
gardens. 


nudifiorum,  J.  officinale  affine,  Ceanothus  azureus 
and  C.  Gloire  de  Versailles,  and  Roses  Mme.  Pierre 
Cochet,  Perle  de  Lyon  and  William  Allen 
Richardson  for  the  taller  position.  For  a  good 
close-growing  climber  of  evergreen  character 
there  is  nothing  to  beat  the  Ivy.  For  the  south 
wall  you  might  plant  Crata?gus  Pyracantha 
Lelandii  and  Clematis  Jackmanii  superba,  these 
providing  good  summer  and  autumn  effects  in 
fruit  and  flowers  respectively. 

Infopmatlon  about  Euonymus  (.P.  Z)  — 
Generally  speaking,  the  Euonymus  transplants  readily, 
and  even  in  the  case  of  established  specimens  there  will 
not  be  any  great  risk  in  moving  them.  Four  years  ago 
we  superintended  the  removal  of  some  large  bushes  that 
had  been  several  years  in  one  spot,  and  they  all  passed 
through  the  ordeal  without  injury.  Some  lost  all  their 
leaves,  but  grew  away  again  in  the  spring.  They  were 
moved  towards  the  end  of  October,  a  very  suitable  time 
for  the  purpose.  The  first  half  of  November  is  equally 
good.  Care  must  be  taken  that  these  plants  have  a 
thorough  soaking  of  water  immediately  they  are  planted. 
The  Habrothamnus  should  do  well  under  the  conditions 
named.  It  may  be  shifted  at  the  same  time  as  the 
Euonymus. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 
Creepers  for  walls  (7.  O.  £.).— We 

cannot  recommend  you  to  plant  Ampelopsis  for 
the  upper  portion  of  a  wall  and  a  climbing  Rose 
for  the  lower  portion,  as  the  former  would 
promptly  overwhelm  the  latter,  and  unless  the 
wall  is  very  high  we  should  not  advise  planting 
the  Ampelopsis  at  all.  Good  flowering  climbers 
and  wall  plants  are  Cydonia  japoniea,  Jasrainum 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Rose  Mildred  Grant  upon  its 

own  roots  [Byfieet). — We  are  pleased  to  hear 
that  your  plant  is  upon  its  own  roots,  for  many 
of  our  readers  find  a  difficulty  in  growing  this 
superb  Rose  the  second  year  when  it  is 
budded.  We  have  always  contended  that  when- 
ever there  is  a  difficulty  in  growing  any  kind  of 
Rose  it  is  because  it  is  budded  upon  an  uncon- 
genial stock,  and  invariably  have  proved  that  by 
taking  cuttings  and  rooting  them  the  difficulty 
has  disappeared,  and  instead  of  a  miserable, 
puny  growth  we  have  had  vigour  that  betokened 
good  health. 

Manuring  Rose-beds  In  autumn 

(Walsall). — Generally  speaking,  Roses  require 
more  nitrogenous  manures  than  potash.  As  to 
whether  you  apply  kainit,  which  is  a  potash 
manure,  or  basic  slag,  which  is  a  phosphatio 
manure,  depends  upon  the  condition  of  your  soil. 
We  should  obtain  an  analysis  of  the  soil,  but, 
failing  this,  we  think  the  basic  slag  would  be  best 
to  apply.  Use  it  at  the  rate  of  4oz.  to  (joz.  per 
square  yard.  If  you  could  obtain  some  good, 
well-decayed  stable  manure,  give  the  beds  a 
dressing  of  this  also  in  November,  and  at  the 
same  time  fork  it  lightly  into  the  soil.  Then 
during  the  growing  season  afford  good  liquid 
manure  liberally.  By  adopting  this  practice  you 
will  be  able  to  grow  first-rate  Roses. 

Dorothy  Perkins  to  grow  In  a 

tub  (H.  E.). — To  grow  such  a  fine  standard 
specimen  of  Dorothy  Perkins  as  the  one  figured 
in  our  issue  of  September  11  could  hardly  be 
accomplished  in  a  tub,  especially  one  of  such  a 
small  diameter  as  16  inches.  As  you  will  observe, 
the  fine  tree  figured  is  growing  in  a  bed  in 
the  open  garden.  Nevertheless,  you  could  grow 
a  very  fair  specimen  if  you  obtain  a  nice  large- 
headed  standard  of  one  year  old  and  plant  it  in 
the  tub  towards  the  end  of  October.  You  must 
make  several  holes  of  about  1  inch  diameter  in 
the  bottom  of  the  tub ;  then  put  in  a  layer  4  inches 
thick  of  broken  pots,  bricks  or  clinkers,  and 
upon  this  about  2  inches  of  rough,  lumpy  loam. 
Ram  all  tightly  down  with  a  round  piece  of 
wood.  Put  in  next  about  3  inches  or  i  inches  of 
well-prepared  compost  consisting  of  loam  and 
well-rotted  manure,  two  parts  of  the  former  and 
one  part  of  the  latter,  all  well  mixed  together,  and 
some  quarter-inch  bones  at  the  rate  of  about  31b.  to 
a  barrowful  of  the  compost.  Trim  over  the  roots 
of  the  standard,  cutting  them  back  to  about 
6  inches,  and  place  them  about  8  inches  deep, 
ramming  the  soil  very  tightly  as  you  shovel  it 
into  the  tub.  Leave  a  space  of  about  IJ  inches 
from  the  top  edge  of  the  tub.  Before  finally 
filling  up  the  tub  with  soil,  place  a  stiffish 
stick  against  the  stem  of  the  Rose  for  support. 
Keep  the  tub  outdoors  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  remov- 
ing it  to  a  shed  if  the  weather  is  very  severe,  but 
only  under  such  circumstances  as  these ;  Roses  are 


hardy  and  only  need  the  roots  protected  against 
injury  by  severe  frosts.  No  pruning  is  required 
the  first  season  beyond  removing  the  extreme 
ends  of  growths.  During  May  and  June  copious 
waterings  should  be  given  at  frequent  intervals 
and  liquid  manure  once  a  week.  If  you  desire  a 
bushy  head  rather  than  a  drooping  one,  the  long 
growths  may  be  trained  on  a  wire  frame  placed 
beneath.  This  induces  the  growths  to  send  out 
laterals  which  bear  the  blooms.  Should  you  at 
some  future  time  have  an  opportunity  of  planting 
the  specimen  in  the  open  garden,  you  will  only 
need  to  knock  the  bottom  out  of  the  tub  and 
remove  the  crocks. 

Rosa  pubplfolia  {Mis»  Russell).  —  This  species, 
though  very  beautiful  in  its  foliage  when  well  established, 
is  rather  slow  in  making  a  display.  To  see  it  at  its  best 
one  must  have  four  or  five  year  old  bushes  and  prune 
them  down  hard  each  season.  It  would  have  been  better 
if  you  had  planted  this  Rose  on  the  outside  of  the  bed  and 
Mme.  G.  Bruant  in  the  centre.  Perhaps  this  can  still  be 
done  without  disturbing  the  rugosa  Rose. 

Rose  gpowths  unhealthy  (E.  E.  Z).).— We 
believe  these  scah-like  abrasions,  especially  of  the  Tea 
and  Hybrid  Tea  sections,  were  caused  by  the  late  spring 
frosts  injuring  the  wood,  and  at  pruning-time  the  plants 
were  not  cut  back  severely,  as  they  should  have  been. 
This  has  been  a  remarkable  season  all  through.  Where 
we  pruned  our  Roses  hard  we  have  had  very  healthy 
growth,  but  where  left  a  good  length  some  varieties  have 
made  very  indifferent  growth.  It  is  very  possible  your 
soil  is  lacking  in  lime.  We  advise  you  to  give  the  beds 
a  good  dressing  this  winter.  It  might  even  be  advis- 
able to  replant  your  beds,  and  in  so  doing  have  the  soil 
trenched  and  some  basic  slag  incorporated  with  the  lower 
soil.  For  a  year  or  two  try  the  plan  of  hard  pruning. 
This  will  bring  your  plants  into  a  healthy  condition,  for 
we  do  not  think  there  is  any  disease.  Good  firm  planting 
should  be  adopted.  Often  troubles  arise  owing  to  the  soil 
being  too  loose  around  the  roots,  but  it  cannot  be  too 
loose  on  the  surface.  Add  some  good  manure  from  a 
farmyard  and  avoid  giving  those  of  a  chemical  nature, 
excepting  the  basic  slag  alluded  to. 

Au tumn-flowreping'  elimbeps  fop 
Glamorgan  garden  (K.  E.  J.)  —  There  are  a 
few  lovely  perpetual-flowering  climbing  Roses  which  you 
do  not  appear  to  possess,  and  they  would,  we  feel  sure, 
succeed  well  in  your  beautiful  district,  although  a  very 
windy  one.  We  can  well  recommend  sorts  like  Frani;ois 
Crousse,  Lady  Waterlow,  Climbing  Liberty,  Dr.  Rouges, 
Mme.  Jules  Siegfried,  Griiss  an  Teplitz,  Mme.  Berard,  M  me. 
Hector  Leuilliot,  Pink  Rover,  Waltham  Climber  No.  1, 
Reine  Marie  Henriette,  Ards  Pillar,  Ards  Rover,  Climbing 
La  France,  Aimiie  Vibert,  Mme.  Alfred  Cariifere,  RSve  d'Or, 
Mrginie,  Demont  Breton,  Alister  Stella  Gray  and  Zepherin 
Drouhin.  Some  of  the  stronger  growing  of  the  Tea- 
scented,  Hybrid  Teas  and  China  Roses  also  are  extremely 
useful  to  plant  at  the  base  of  some  of  the  pillars,  especially 
where  such  sorts  as  Electra  become  somewhat  scanty  of 
growth  Varieties  of  the  type  of  Corallina,  General 
Schabllkine,  Comtesse  du  Cayla,  Marie  van  Houtte,  &c., 
are  beautiful,  and  would  soon  attain  a  good  height.  They 
could  be  planted  abont  1  foot  away  from  the  other 
rambler,  and  providing  the  soil  is  of  good  depth  will 
flourish  beautifully.  Some  good  rugosa  Roses,  with  double 
or  semi-double  flowers,  avoiding  the  sorts  you  possess,  are 
Blanc  Double  de  Coubert,  Mrs.  Anthony  Waterer,  Rose  ii 
parfum  de  I'Hay,  Nova  Zembla  and  Chedane  Guinoisseau. 
These  are  all  good  for  hedges.  It  is  strange  that  some  Roses 
grow  well  enough  in  one  garden,  but  refuse  to  do  so  in 
another.  Eclair  is  such  a  splendid  colour,  so  double  and 
of  perfect  form,  that  one  cannot  take  too  much  trouble 
with  it.  Try  the  seedling  Briar  for  it.  Sometimes  when 
budded  on  Manetti  it  refuses  to  grow.  Bardou  Job  is 
another.  We  should  ask  for  this  on  its  own  roots  ;  failing 
that,  then  on  the  Briar  stock.  This  exquisite  Rose  might 
be  obtainable  now,  pot-grown,  on  its  own  roots.  There 
should  be  no  trouble  whatever  in  growing  Mme.  Jules 
Gravereaux.  Treat  it  as  a  strong-growing  bush  and  prune 
it  to  the  ground  each  year.  Mile.  Bonnaire  should 
certainly  be  obtained  if  possible.  It  is  a  charming  Rose 
and  is  best  on  the  Briar. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Treatment  of  Datura    Knightli 

(A.  J.  iVt'coZ).  — The  Datura  you  saw  at  Kew  is 
Datura  Knightii,  a  garden  form  of  the  Mexican 
Datura  suaveolens.  It  attains  the  dimensions  of 
a  large  shrub  or  small  tree,  and  may  be  readily 
grown  with  much  the  same  treatment  as  a 
Fuchsia.  You  cannot  obtain  seed  of  this,  or 
indeed  of  any  of  the  shrubby  Daturas,  but  they 
strike  readily  from  cuttings,  and  are  kept  in 
stock  by  those  nurserymen  who  make  a  speciality 
of  greenhouse  plants.  If  you  wish  to  grow  a 
specimen,  your  better  plan  will  be  to  obtain  a 
vigorous  plant  next  spring  and  treat  it  well,  for 
the  Datura  is  a  liberal  feeder.  It  should  be 
shifted  into  a  pot  considerably  larger  than 
before,  a  suitable  compost  being  good  turfy  loam, 


536 


THE    GARDEN. 


[October  30,  190t>. 


well-decayed  manure  and  a  little  sand.  As  the 
pots  get  well  furnished  with  roots,  liquid  manure 
oeoaaionally  will  be  helpful.  The  plant  may  be 
stood  out  of  doors  during  the  summer,  and  in 
winter  given  much  the  same  treatment  as  a 
Fuchsia ;  that  is  to  say,  it  must  be  quite  safe  from 
frost  and  be  kept  moderately  dry  at  the  roots. 
Though  the  generic  name  of  Datura  is  botanically 
correct,  the  plant  in  question  is  in  gardens  more 
often  known  as  Brugmansia  Knightii.  There  are 
some  annual  forms  of  Datura  which  are  of  rapid 
growth  and  may,  during  the  summer,  be  planted 
out  or  grown  in  pots.  Of  these  seed  may  be 
sown  in  the  greenhouse  during  the  spring,  and 
the  young  plants  potted  on  as  soon  as  they  are 
ready.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  them  get 
potbound  in  their  earlier  stages,  or  they  will 
never  again  start  freely  into  growth.  The 
trumpet-shaped  flowers  of  these  annual  kinds  are 
very  sweet-scented. 

Treatment  of  a  "Monarch  of  the 

East"  {E.  B.  Potter). — The  treatment  given  to 
yeur  Monarch  of  the  East  was  quite  correct ; 
that  is  to  say,  in  potting  it  as  soon  as  the  flower 
faded.  It  is  natural  for  the  leaves  to  begin  to 
decay  now,  but  we  do  not  understand  it  pushing 
up  another  shoot  from  the  base,  as  it  should 
now  go  to  rest.  We  advise  you  to  lessen  the 
supply  of  water,  and  then,  when  the  stem  has 
died  down,  the  soil  must  be  allowed  to  get  quite 
dry.  Towards  the  end  of  the  year  it  may  be 
turned  out  of  the  pot  and  given  the  same 
treatment  as  last  season. 

Verbenas     dyine      during:     the 

winter  (Aber). — Losses  among  Verbenas 
during  the  winter  are  in  many  oases  so  great 
that  some  cultivators  propagate  many  of  them  in 
the  spring.  The  cuttings,  for  which  clean,  short- 
jointed  shoots  must  be  ebosen,  should  be  taken 
at  once  and  inserted  into  sandy  soil.  About  half- 
a-dozen  cuttings  in  a  4inoh  pot  is  a  very  con- 
venient arrangement.  They  need  to  be  kept  in  a 
close  frame  to  root,  but  directly  this  takes  place 
plenty  of  air  must  be  given.  The  object  then  is 
to  encourage  short,  sturdy  growth,  and  kpep  free 
from  mildew,  which  often  causes  great  losses 
among  Verbenas.  Throughout  the  winter  the 
best  place  for  Verbenas  is  a  light  shelf  in  a  dry 
greenhouse  where  the  temperature  does  not 
go  below  4.5°.  Many  of  the  fine  flowering 
plants  that  one  sees  in  Covent  Garden  Market 
are  struck  in  heat  early  in  the  year,  three  or 
four  cuttings  being  inserted  in  a  small  pot,  and 
when  these  are  well  rooted  they  are  shitted  into 
their  flowering  pots  without  being  separated. 

Oesnepa  leaves  diseased  (IF.  F.  7'.).— We 
think  the  damage  has  been  caused  by  aa  attack  of  red 
spider,  traces  of  which  are  to  be  found  on  the  leaves.  We 
have  known  similar  injury  to  be  caused  to  the  Gesnera 
foliage  by  a  too  strong  application  of  artitlcial  manure. 
We  do  not  think  that  an  eelworm  has  bad  anything  to  do 
with  the  injury. 

Gepanlums  {Enquirer).  —  In  all  Geraniums  the 
flowers  in  the  interior  of  the  truss  generally  die  off  before 
those  on  the  outside  are  fully  expanded.  In  order  to  have 
all  the  trusses  at  their  best,  or  nearly  so,  at  the  same 
time,  all  flower-buds  should  be  picked  off  from  three 
weeks  to  a  month  before  they  are  required. 

Gepanlums  and  cateppillaps  (Jf.^'V.).— The 
caterpillars  that  have  done  so  much  damage  to  your 
Geraniums  are  those  of  the  common  white  butterfly.  We 
know  many  cases  where  Geraniums  are  completely  ruined 
by  them,  and  though  various  remedies  have  been  tried, 
even  the  best  are  only  partially  successful.  Hand  picking 
and  destroying  the  caterpillars,  dusting  with  Ilellt-bore 
powder,  and  persistently  destroying  the  peifect  insects 
are  the  most  effectual  remedies  that  we  have  yet  met  with. 

Re-epecting  a  span-poofed  iTPeenhouse 

(Turforj.— We  think  that  the  best  and  moit  profitable  use 
you  can  make  of  your  greenhouse,  and  with  the  least 
labour  and  expense  to  yourself,  will  be  to  grow  fruit 
trees  in  pots  in  it.  Should  you  decide  to  do  this,  there 
will  be  no  staging  required,  as  the  trees  will  stand  in  the 
middle  of  the  floor  with  a  coat  of  ashes  i2  inches  deep 
under  them,  unless  the  floor  is  flagged,  in  which  case  no 
ashes  would  be  wanted.  We  recommend  the  division  to 
be  left,  as  you  might  wish  to  slightly  force  half  your  trees, 
instead  of  having  all  the  fruit  ripe  at  the  same  time.  A 
bouse  of  the  dimensions  you  give  would  accommodate 
three  dozen  trees  (eighteen  in  each  division).  You  will 
And  excellent  articles  on  the  growth  of  these  trees  and 
the  best  varieties  to  grow,  by  Mr.  J.  Hudson,  in  The 
GabiiEN  ;  they  have  been  published  from  time  to  time. 


Diseased  Lobelias  (.Muriel).  —  The  Lobelia  is 
attacked  by  one  of  the  black  moulds,  a  species  of  Macre- 
sporium.  Scarcely  anything  can  be  done  with  plants 
such  as  these  ;  but,  perhaps,  spraying  with  potassium 
sulphide  (loz.  to  three  gallons  of  water)  may  check  the 
disease.  Propagation  should  only  be  effected  from  per- 
fectly healthy  plants. 

Pplmula  leaves  fop  Inspection  (T.  T. 
Kitchen). — The  enclosed  Primula  leaves  are  very  badly 
attacked  by  the  mite  which  has  of  late  years  given  a  good 
deal  of  trouble  in  many  gardens.  It  was  first  noticed  on 
Begonias  ;  hence  it  is  often  referred  to  as  the  Begonia 
mite.  It  can  be  destroyed  by  vaporising  with  the  XL  All 
Vaporiser,  or  by  dipping  in  a  solution  of  nicotine.  When 
the  leaves,  however,  are  in  the  state  of  those  sent  they 
cannot  be  restored  to  health. 

Plants  fop  naming  and  Infopmatlon 
(Reader).— The  Thistle,  of  which  a  leaf  is  enclosed,  is 
known  as  the  Blessed  or  Holy  Thistle.  It  is  a  native  of 
Southern  Europe,  and  its  botanical  name  is  Silybnm 
marianum.  This  Thistle  is  a  bitnnial ;  but  it  seeds  so 
freely  that  there  is  no  difliculty  in  keeping  up  a  stock. 
The  seedling  Maidenhair,  of  which  you  enclose  a  frond,  is 
much  in  the  way  of  Adiantum  scutum.  It  is  of  a  light, 
graceful  habit,  and  would  certainly  make  a  good 
decorative  plant,  but  there  are  now  a  vast  number  of 
forms  much  in  th«  same  way. 

Oepanium  (L.  D.  C.).— The  name  of  the  Geranium 
you  sent  is  Double  New  Life.  About  thirty  years  ago  the 
popular  bedding  variety  Vesuvius  sported  into  a  flower 
striped  with  red  and  white.  This  was  popular  for  a  time, 
and  some  time  in  the  eighties  it  showed  a  sport  with 
double  flowers.  This  was  propagated  and  in  its  turn 
distributed  under  the  name  of  Double  New  Life.  For  a 
while  this  was  a  good  deal  grown,  but  we  have  not  met 
with  it  for  some  time,  neither  can  we  find  it  in  any  cata- 
logues that  we  have  consulted.  The  present-day  taste  is 
for  self-coloured  flowers  rather  than  for  those  whose 
colouring  is  made  up  of  stripes  and  flakes  ;  hence  the 
obscurity  into  which  this  variety  has  now  fallen. 

To  keep  Aspidlstpas  %vhlte  (Mrs.  Banks)  — 
It  is  quite  impossible  to  keep  the  leaves  of  Aspidistras 
white,  as  a  leaf  that  is  wholly  white  is  absolutely  devoid 
of  chlorophyll,  so  necessary  to  maintain  the  natural 
vigour  of  a  plant.  This  may  be  seen  in  the  case  of  many 
variegated  subjects  which  produce  a  few  white  leaves, 
but  they  quickly  die  off.  If  you  intend  your  question  to 
read,  How  to  keep  the  leaves  variegated?  we  may  say  that 
you  can  do  very  little  in  this  respect.  Plants  with  varie- 
gated leaves,  if  potted  in  very  rich  soil,  are  apt  to  throw 
green  leaves,  but  not  if  they  are  in  ordinary  potting  com- 
post. Individual  peculiarity  is  another  point  to  be  con- 
sidered, for  some  plants  will  produce  a  preponderance  of 
green  leaves,  however  they  are  treated,  while  in  others 
grown  under  similar  conditions  every  leaf  will  be 
variegated. 


FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Muscats  failing:  (C.  S.  Oordon  Clark). 
The  cause  of  failure  is  due  to  lack  of  suitable  condi- 
tions. In  the  first  place,  the  aspect  you  mention, 
north-west,  is  unsuitable  for  growing  Muscat  of 
Alexandria  Grapes.  Then  you  say  that  fires  were 
discontinued  in  .June,  so  that  it  is  hardly  to  be 
expected  that  these  Grapes  will  succeed  under 
those  conditions,  especially  in  a  season  like  the 
present  one  when  fires  should  have  been  kept 
going  the  whole  time.  The  presence  of  plants 
like  Ferns  in  the  house  would  hardly  tend  to 
their  well-being,  as  conditions  that  suit  Ferns 
would  hardly  suit  Grapes  that  are  ripening. 

The  meaning:  of  fruit  tree  names 

(T.A.S.). — The  terms  bush,  espalier,  standard, 
pyramid  and  cordon  are  applied  to  various 
kinds  of  fruit  trees  grown  under  diflferent 
conditions.  A  bush  Apple  is  one  with  no 
main  trunk.  It  usually  divides,  a  few  inches 
above  the  ground  line,  into  numerous  branches, 
which  grow  out  uniformly  to  form  a  shapely, 
more  or  less  round,  bush.  A  pyramid  has  a 
central  trunk  with  branches  from  within  a 
few  inches  of  the  ground  to  the  summit.  The 
branches  at  the  bottom  are  the  longest,  and  they 
gradually  become  shorter  as  they  near  the  top  of 
the  tree,  the  whole  forming  a  specimen  of  pyra- 
midal outline.  A  standard  is  formed  by  allowing 
the  tree  to  make  a  clear  trunk  of  several  feet 
before  the  head  is  developed.  The  length  of 
trunk  may  be  anything  from  4  feet  to  7  feet. 
An  espalier-trained  tree  has  a  central  trunk  from 
which  branches  radiate  from  equal  points  from 
two  opposite  sides,  the  tiers  of  branches  being 
about  9  inches  to  12  inches  apart.  This  method 
of  training  is  often  adopted  for  trees  growing 
near  the  sides  of  paths,  a  trellis  arrangement 
being  used  for  a  support.  A  cordon  consists  of  a 
single  stem  covered  with  short  spurs  instead  of 
branehes.    Cordons  may  be  supported  with  stakes 


in  the  open  ground  or  be  planted  against  a  wall. 
By  training  them  in  an  oblique  manner  oblique 
cordons  are  formed. 

AVlnter   treatment  of    Black 

Hambur^'h  Grapes  {Vine  Amateur).— It 
will  do  the  Vines  a  lot  of  good  if  you  will  give 
the  borders,  as  early  as  possible,  a  good  soaking 
of  liquid  manure  from  the  stable  or  cowyard, 
both  those  inside  and  outside,  giving  the 
inside  one  a  second  watering  of  the  same  sort  in 
the  course  of  a  week's  time.  The  inside  border 
should  never  be  allowed  to  become  too  dry  at 
any  time,  and  weak  manure-water  should  be 
applied  alternately  with  clear  water.  This 
enriches  the  soil  and  will  help  the  Vines  greatly 
another  year.  The  cause  of  the  absence  of  bloom 
on  your  Grapes  we  suggest  was  overcropping.  2. 
Keep  the  ventilators  open  day  and  night  in  all 
weathers,  except,  of  course,  on  very  rough  nights 
or  when  there  is  severe  frost.  3.  The  Vines 
should  not  be  syringed  until  they  have  started 
into  growth  in  spring. 

Fpult  book  (Xewland).—We  advise  you  to  purchase 
"The  Fruit  Garden,"  published  by  the  Proprietors  of 
Countri/  Life  and  to  be  had  from  this  office.  It  is  written 
by  George  Buayard  and  Owen  Thomas. 

Peap  tpees  fop  a  12-feet-hl§rh  wall  (ff.  B.  S.). 
The  aspect  is  good,  and  all  the  varieties  you  mention  would 
succeed  as  cordons  excepting  Winter  Nelis.  This  variety 
is  of  diminutive  growth  and  does  not  succeed  well  when 
trained  in  this  form.  Where  the  wall  space  is  limited,  and 
where  it  is  desired  to  include  a  goodly  number  of  varieties 
in  such  limited  space,  the  cordon  form  of  training  Pear 
trees  is  excellent.  They  bear  good  crops  in  this  way  and 
remain  (with  careful  culture)  in  robust  health  for  many 
years.  Another  advantage  that  a  cordon-trained  tree  has 
over  any  other  form  of  training  is  that  a  wall  can  be 
furnished  with  fruitful  trees  in  half  the  time  it  takes  to 
furnish  it  with  trees  trained  in  any  other  way.  Seeing 
that  your  trees  are  budded  oh  the  dwarfing  Quince  stock 
and  that  your  wall  is  a  good  height,  we  think  you  would 
be  well  advised  to  confine  your  trees  to  two  cordons  only. 

Branches    of    Applcot    tpees   dying   (W. 

Pliear). — This  is  a  malady  common  to  the  Apricot  tree, 
scarcely  any  other  fruit  tree  being  affected  by  the  same 
disease.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  doubt  and  uncertainty 
as  to  the  real  cause  of  this  disease  (named  canker)  among 
Apricot  trees.  Our  opinion,  based  on  long  experience,  is 
that  the  fault  lies  in  planting  the  trees  in  too  rich  a  soil 
when  they  are  young.  This  results  in  their  making 
abnormally  strong  roots  and,  as  a  result,  the  same 
character  branches.  The  consequence  is  that  these  over- 
gross  young  shoots,  which  will  ultimately  be  the  main 
branches  of  the  trees,  never  properly  ripen  and  become 
hard.  For  this  reason  these  soft  stkoots  are  frequently 
frost-bitten  during  our  hard  winters.  The  wound  so 
caused  by  frost  leads  to  what  is  termed  gumming  in  the 
branches,  and,  ultimately,  as  the  trees  get  older,  to 
canker,  which  causes  the  death  of  the  branches.  It  is 
impossible  to  cure  old  trees  which  are  affected  by  it ;  the 
only  way  to  act  with  these  is  to  encourage  the  growth  of 
young  shoots  to  start  from  the  healthy  part  of  the  branch 
immediately  below  where  the  dead  one  came  off.  In 
this  way  old  cankered  trees  may  be  made  to  bear  fair 
crops  of  fruit  for  many  years. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Fibre  for  bulbs  (I>.  A.  J.)— No;  do  not  uae  the 

fibre  again  this  year.  There  are  so  maay  fungoid  and 
other  diseases  belonging  to  bulbous  roots  that  all  precau- 
tions against  the  transmitting  of  these  parasites  should 
be  taken. 

Kitchen  g-apden  bplck  walk  Infested 
with  \veeds  {C.  />.  5.).— We  know  of  nothing  more 
effective  than  hand  weeding  in  such  a  case  as  yours. 
Failing  this,  perseverance  with  applicatiens  of  weed-killer 
or  common  salt  should  effect  their  destruction. 

Copal  spot  fungrus  on  tpellis  (E.  M.  Wihf).— 
There  is  little  to  be  feared  with  the  coral  spot  fungus  on 
the  Roses,  and  we  thing  spraying  unnecessary.  It  is  much 
more  likely  to  do  harm  to  Currant,  Horse  Chestnut,  Maple, 
Walnut  and  similar  trees  than  to  Roses.  When  a  branch 
of  these  is  seen  to  be  attacked  it  is  well  to  cut  it  right 
out. 

Planting  Aspapag^us  (Miramonte).— The  best 
time  of  year  to  plant  Asparagus  in  your  district  will  be 
the  middle  of  March.  The  most  profitable  beds  are  made 
by  planting  one  year  old  roots  only.  It  is  a  mistake  to 
plant  old  ernes.  Messrs.  Maurice  Young  and  Son  of  The 
Nurseries,  Godalming,  Surrey,  are  on  your  line  and  could, 
no  doubt,  supply  you. 

Killing-  a  neigboup's  tPees  (L.  P.). —Your 
friend  has  no  right  whatever  to  take  any  steps  to  kill  the 
Sycamores  in  his  neighbour's  garden.  He  may  lop  off  all 
branches  which  overhang  his  garden  without  fear  of  con- 
sequences, but  not  beyond.  Such  points  as  these  are  con- 
stantly cropping  up,  and  are  matters  that  can  only  be 
satisfactorily  seitled  by  negotiations  between  the  parties 
concerned.  The  neighbour  may  be  a  little  awkward,  but 
your  suggestion  to  drill  holes  in  the  trees  and  put  in 
mercury  does  not  sound  aa  though  you  would  advocate 
the  most  peaceable  measures. 


^^L. 


l^^®- 


GARDEN. 


-^^= 


^^^^ZZ^ 


No.  1981.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


NOVEMBEK    6,    1909. 


CONTBNTS 


Gardening     for 
Profit 637 

h0tb8  of  the  week 
Forthcoming  events      53S 
The  United  Horticul- 
tural  Benefit    and 
Provident  Society      538 
Vegetables,  old  and 
new  ..     538 

GOBRBaPONDEROB 

The  destruction  of 
hedgehogs      ..     .,    538 

Kehmannia  angulata    538 

Rose  Chateau  de  Clos 
Vougeot 538 

A  new  Saxifrage  and 
its  relations  . .     . .    538 

Polygonum  baldschu- 
anlcum  not  flower- 
ing      538 

Colour  nomenclature    539 

Notes  made  at  Crawley    539 
Fkdit  Gaudbn 
Autumn  -fruiting 
Strawberries    for 
amateurs       ..     ..    540 
Flower  Sabdeh 
A  white  garden       . .    540 
Sweet  Pea  chat       . .    541 
Peeonia  Veitehii      . .    542 


542 


Flower  Garden 
Eremurus     robustus 
elwesianus     . .     . . 
CoLotTRED  Plate 

Rose  American  Pillar 
RofSE  Garden 
Notes    on    newer 

Hoses.— VII 543 

Hybrid  Tea   Rose 
Claudius 543 

GARDEHINa  FOR  BESINNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week 544 

How  to  plant  Koses  544 

Storing  Dahlia  roots  545 

THE  Town  Garden  ..  545 

GARDEHma  OF  TBE  WEEK 

For  the   Sonth   and 

South  Midlands    ..  546 

For  the  North    and 

North  Midland!  ..  546 

New  plants 546 

Editor's  Table      ..     ..  546 
ahbwebs     to     Gorbe- 
bfordebis 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  547 

Eose  garden      , .     . .  547 

Greenhouse       ..     ..  54S 

Fruit  garden     . .     . .  648 

Miscellaneous  . .     . .  548 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A  rare  Pseony  (P<eonia  Veitehii)       639 

White  herbaceous  flowers  and  Water  Lilies 540 

Koses  in  the  white  garden 541 

The  new  Eose  Claudius 642 

Rose  American  Pillar Coloured  plate 

Eremurus  robustus  elwesianus 543 

How  to  plant  Roses       544,  545 


BDITORIAL    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
G-ARDEM,  and  the  Editor  i/nvites  readers  to  send  vn  questwns 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  Kfish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  ** Answers  to  Correspondents"  coluTnns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  a/re  prititedf  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assista/nce. 
All  communications  must  be  written  clewrly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  a/nd  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  nwme  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  a/rticles  and  notes, 
but  he  will  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasoTUible  care,  however,  toill  be  taken,  and,  where  sta/mps 
are  enclosed,  he  will  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contrifyatioTiS.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  miLst  be  distiiictly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  ovmer  of  the  copyright  ufUl  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  f<yr  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
a/nd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
toiXl  alone  be  recognised  as  accepta/nce. 


Otfloes:  SO.  l^avistock  Street,  CovcTit  Garden,  IT.C 


GARDENING     FOR     PROFIT. 

Words  of  Advice. 

FROM  time  to  time  letters  reach  us  from 
persona  of  both  sexes  who  are  seeking 
information  as  to  the  best  means  of 
commencing  one  or  more  branches  of 
gardening  with  a  view  to  gaining  a 
living  thereby,  and  during  the  last  few  years 
such  letters  have  increased  in  numbers  consider- 
ably. Generally,  the  writers  are  evidently  keen 
business  people  who  have  managed  to  save  a 
few  hundred  pounds  in  whatever  branch  of 
business  they  may  have  been  trained  to,  and 
who,  apparently,  are  possessed  of  a  desire  to 
lead  an  open-air  life.  So  far  the  idea  is  an 
excellent  one  ;  but  we  need  scarcely  say  that  such 
enthusiasts  have  never  stopped  to  consider  what 
it  means.  That  a  keen  business  man  or  woman 
in  some  other  walk  of  life  should  imagine  that 
they  can  transfer  their  energies,  say,  from  a 
grocer's  business  to  that  of  gardening,  of  which 
they  are  totally  ignorant,  seems  incredulous  ;  yet 
such  is  a  fact. 

Undoubtedly  the  many  erroneous  and  mis- 
leading articles  written  by  theorists  in  the  daily 
Press  on  the  subject  during  recent  years  are 
largely  responsible  for  this  desire  on  the  part  of 
many  townsfolk  to  get  their  living  direct  from 
the  land,  and  we  fear  that  many  who  have 
plunged  recklessly  into  some  branch  of  gardening 
have  suflfered  very  considerably.  Judging  by  the 
letters  we  receive,  the  writers  have  no  idea  as 
to  what  they  shall  grow  or  where  they  shall 
grow  it,  and  imagine  that  they  only  have  to  dig 
and  plant  and  Nature  will  do  the  rest.  How 
wide  this  is  of  the  truth  all  practical  men  and 
women  will  know  only  too  well.  It  should  be 
sufficient  to  cause  these  enthusiasts  to  seriously 
consider  the  matter  when  we  say  that  we  know 
many  hard-working  men  and  women  who  have 
devoted  their  lives,  and  in  some  cases  long  lives, 
to  gardening  for  profit,  and  who  find  it  a  hard 
struggle  to  make  both  ends  meet. 

Even  with  the  above  facts  before  them,  there 
are  still  some  novices  who  are  willing  to  venture 
in  the  subject,  and  it  may,  perhaps,  be  of  service 
to  point  out  a  few  of  the  difiiculties  that  are 
likely  to  be  encountered  and  some  of  the  objects 
that  must  be  considered.  In  the  first  place, 
capital  is  absolutely  essential,  that  is,  sufiicient 
capital  to  carry  on  the  work  for  several  years 
and  also  to  enable  the  cultivator  to  live,  as 
returns  of  any  substantial  nature  cannot  be 
expected  for  a  few  years,  no  matter  what  crops 
are  grown,  as  expenses  at  the  commencement 
must  of  necessity  be  heavier  than  they  will 
be  in  later  years.  Another  point  that  we  would 
like  to  impress    upon  the  town    dweller  who 


wishes  to  garden  for  profit  is  the  long  hours  of 
hard  work  that  it  will  be  necessary  to  put  into 
the  business.  Up  with  the  lark  may  sound  an 
alluring  prospect  during  the  summer  months 
when  skies  are  blue  and  Nature  is  at  her  best, 
but  the  late  autumn,  winter  and  early  spring 
months  must  also  be  remembered. 

We  referred  previously  to  the  novice's  idea  that 
it  is  only  delving  and  planting  that  needs  to  be 
done  and  Nature  will  do  the  rest,  but  practical 
men  and  women  know  that  Nature  is  usually 
apparently  trying  to  do  her  worst.  Frost,  cold 
and  boisterous  winds,  excessive  drought  or  rain, 
hail,  fungoid  and  insect  pests  galore,  all  combine 
to  make  the  market-gardener's  life  anything  but 
a  bed  of  Roses. 

Assuming  that  the  novice  still  wishes  to  em- 
bark in  the  enterprise  of  profit  gardening,  there 
are  a  few  hints  that  may  be  given,  and  which  will 
apply  to  all.  We  mentioned  before  that  usually 
such  persons  as  we  have  in  mind  have  no  idea  as 
to  what  to  grow  or  where  to  grow  it,  and  this 
undoubtedly  is  a  very  great  stumbling-block. 
For  a  novice  to  think  of  growing  produce  for  the 
London  markets  is  absurd,  and  may  be  dismissed 
without  further  thought.  What  should  be  done 
is  to  find  out  what  is  really  required  in  a  locality 
and  try  to  grow  produce  that  will  meet  this 
demand.  Generally  speaking,  better  prices  can 
be  obtained  from  provincial  towns  than  in  the 
London  markets,  and  providing  the  novice  has  a 
real  love  of  the  work,  and  is  prepared  to  put 
several  years  into  it  before  getting  other  returns 
than  practical  experience,  it  may  be  possible  to 
make  it  pay. 

Apart  from  ordinary  gardening,  we  frequently 
have  enquiries  respecting  the  so-called  French 
system  of  gardening,  which,  as  many  of  our  readers 
well  know,  has  been  carried  on  by  our  best 
gardeners  for  many  years.  In  this,  again,  the 
daily  Press  has  much  to  answer  for  in  inducing 
people  to  invest  their  money  in  such  businesses 
without  first  securing  sound  advice  upon,  and 
practical  experience  of,  the  subject.  In  consider- 
ing the  advisability  of  commencing  this  form  of 
gardening,  even  the  experienced  man  or  woman 
must  ask  themselves  whether  there  is  sufficient 
demand  in  the  country  for  such  produce  as  to 
render  the  venture  a  successful  one.  We  think 
that  at  present  sufficient  is  being  grown  to  meet 
the  demand,  and  this  is  the  experience  of  several 
who  daily  have  their  finger  on  the  pulse  of  the 
market.  Providing,  however,  the  intending  in- 
tensive cultivator  has  convinced  himself  or  her- 
self that  there  is  sufficient  demand  for  produce  of 
this  kind,  they  are  at  once  faced  with  the 
enormous  expense  of  commencing  the  work. 
Frames,  cloches,  manure,  mats,  baskets  and  a 
host  of  other  apparatus  has  to  be  purchased. 


538 


THE     GARDEN. 


[November  6,  1909. 


Again ,  to  compare  the  intensive  cultivation  of 
France  with  the  same  in  this  country  is,  to  say 
the  least  of  it,  misleading.  The  French  are 
notoriously  a  salad-eating  nation,  which,  during 
cold  weather,  we  are  not  (and  salads  form  some 
of  the  principal  crops)  ;  the  climate  of  France  is 
more  favourable  to  the  work,  labour  is  cheaper 
there  than  here,  and  workmen  will  work  more 
hours  in  a  day  there  than  they  can  be  induced  to 
do  in  this  country. 

Gardening  for  pleasure  and  gardening  for  a 
living  are  two  widely  different  things.  It  is  just 
as  ridiculous  for,  say,  a  grocer,  draper,  stock- 
broker or  clerk  to  imagine  that  he  can  get  a 
living  at  gardening  without  previous  experience 
as  it  would  be  for  a  lifelong  gardener  to  attempt 
to  get  his  living  from  one  of  the  sources 
mentioned  above. 


NOTES  OF    THE  WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

*,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  swpplied  by  the 

respective  Secretaries, 

November  9. — Southampton  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society's  Show  (two  days). 

November  10. — Buxton  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Show  (two  days)  ;  Northamptonshire 
Chrysanthemum  Show  (two  days)  ;  Faversham 
Chrysanthemum  Society's  Show  (two  days). 

November  12.— Bradford  and  Rochdale  Chry- 
santhemum Show  (two  days)  ;  Huddersfield 
Chrysanthemum  Show  (two  days). 

Vegetables,  old  and  new.— A  lantern 

lecture  on  "Vegetables,  Old  and  New"  was 
delivered  recently  at  Farnbam,  Surrey,  by  Mr. 
W.  F.  Giles,  vegetable  expert  of  Messrs.  Sutton 
and  Sons  of  Reading.  The  lecture  was  given 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Farnham  and  District 
Horticultural  Society  and  Chrysanthemum  Show, 
and  attracted  over  100  members  and  others.  At 
the  close  numerous  questions  were  asked  and 
answered,  and  on  the  motion  of  Mr.  C.  Moore, 
F.R.H.S.,  a  vote  of  thanks  was  accorded  to  Mr. 
Giles  for  his  most  able  and  interesting  address. 

The  United  HoPtlcultupal  Benefit 
and  Provident  Soelety.— The  twenty- 
third  anniversary  dinner  in  connexion  with  the 
above  soeiety  was  held  at  the  Waldorf  Hotel, 
Aldwyoh,  London,  on  the  28th  ult. ,  J.  B.  Slade, 
Esq. ,  presiding,  and  a  large  number  of  members 
and  friends  being  present.  After  the  loyal  toast 
had  been  heartily  received,  the  chairman 
proposed  "  Continued  Success  to  the  United 
Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society," 
and  in  the  course  of  an  excellent  speech  drew 
attention  to  the  aims  and  objects  of  the  society, 
its  economical  working,  the  Benevolent  Fund  and 
the  Convalescent  Fund,  all  of  which  are  unique 
features  of  this  society.  He  also  drew  attention 
to  the  honorary  and  life  members,  and  said  he 
thought  there  ought  to  be  more  of  the  large 
horticultural  firms  of  the  country  connected  with 
the  society  in  this  way  than  there  was  at 
present.  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis,  chairman  of  the  com- 
mittee, in  responding,  said  he  was  pleased  to  be 
able  to  state  that,  even  in  this  bad  year,  the 
society  had  been  able  to  invest  more  money  than 
usual.  Other  excellent  speeches  were  made 
by  Messrs.  J.  Harrison  Diok,  T.  N.  Cox,  Riley 
Soott,  A.  Dawkins  and  E.  F.  Hawes.  We  are 
pleased  to  be  able  to  record  that  this  excellent 
society  is  in  a  sound  financial  state,  and  would 
urge  upon  all  our  readers,  particularly  the  young 
ones,  the  necessity  of  belonging  to  such  a  society 
for  gardeners.  There  are  two  grades,  in  one  of 
which  the  sick  pay  is  18s.  per  week,  and  in  the 
other  12s.  per  week.  In  addition  there  is  the 
Benevolent  Fund,  for  assisting  those  who  may  have 
fallen  on  bad  times  without  actually  being  ill, 
the  Convalescent  Fund,  and  also  provision  for  old 
age.  Sickness  and  misfortunes  often  come  when 
least    expected,    and    it  is  the   duty  of  every 


gardener  to  be  prepared  for  such.  The  secretary, 
Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham, 
London,  S.W.,  will  be  pleased  to  furnish  any 
gardener  with  full  particulars. 

CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the.  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 

The  National  Vegetable  Society 
and  the  Royal  Uoptlcultupal 
Society. — As  one  who  has  taken  much  interest 
in  the  formation  and  work  of  the  National 
Vegetable  Society,  may  I  be  allowed  space  to 
record  my  indignation  at  the  decision  of  the 
council  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  to 
hold  a  vegetable  exhibition  next  year.  The 
facts,  I  believe,  are  these  :  The  National  Vege- 
table Society  several  weeks  ago  decided  to  hold 
an  exhibition  of  vegetables  in  the  autumn  of 
next  year,  and  consequently  applied  to  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  for  the  use  of 
its  hall  for  the  purpose,  the  secretary  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  subsequently 
offering  the  National  Vegetable  Society  a  date 
or  dates.  Then  on  the  26th  ult.  the  council  of 
the  society,  who  must  have  known  of  the 
National  Vegetable  Society's  intentions,  decided 
that  it  would  hold  a  similar  exhibition,  and 
this  without  consulting  the  National  Vegetable 
Society  with  a  view  to  a  combined  show.  Those 
who  know  the  exceedingly  meagre  treatment 
that  exhibits  of  vegetables  shown  before  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  the  past  have 
received,  and  the  apparent  indifference  of  the 
society  to  the  value  of  vegetables,  can  only 
assume  that  the  council  is  actuated  by  a  motive 
that  is  unworthy  of  a  body  that  professes  to 
exist  for  the  advancement  of  horticulture.  Had 
the  council  done  its  duty  towards  vegetables 
in  the  past,  there  would  have  been  no  need  for 
the  formation  of  a  National  Vegetable  Society. 
Such  conduct  as  that  of  the  council  over  this 
matter  can  only  be  regarded  as  a  direct  and 
unsportsmanlike  attempt  to  smash  the  newly 
formed  National  Vegetable  Society,  and  I  leave 
other  readers  of  Thb  G.\rden'  to  take  up  the 
matter  in  the  way  they  think  best.  If  the 
council  has  any  explanation  of  its  conduct  to 
offer,  may  we  be  favoured  with  it  early. — A 
Lover  of  Goon  Vegetables. 

The  destpuction  of  hedgrehogs  {in 

reply  to  "  W.  B.  M."). — On  no  account  destroy 
the  hedgehogs,  as  they  are  extremely  useful  in 
feeding  on  garden  pests.  I  introduced  them 
to  my  garden  some  years  since,  and  only  see  them 
occasionally,  as  they  are  nocturnal  animals  and 
hibernate  during  the  winter,  I  have  never 
known  them  to  make  holes,  although  they  use 
holes  made  by  rabbits,  &c.  Are  you  sure  the 
holes  are  not  made  by  some  other  animal  ? — B.  K. 

Rehmannla  angulata.— This  is 

practically  a  new  plant,  and  was  introduced 
from  China  by  Messrs.  Veitch  of  Chelsea.  It  is 
classed  as  a  half-hardy  perennial,  yet  here  in  our 
genial  climate  of  South  Devon  we  find  it  hardy, 
and  plants  that  were  left  out  on  the  borders  all 
last  winter  have  been  flowering  aontinuously 
from  June  to  October.  It  throws  up  slender 
spikes  of  bloom  from  2  feet  to  3  feet  high,  the 
flowers  being  rosy  purple  with  a  yellow  throat, 
similar  in  shape  to  those  of  Incarvillea  Delavayii. 
It  is  a  good  plant  for  the  greenhouse,  yet  no 
doubt  it  is  seen  at  its  best  on  the  herbaceous 
border.  Planted  in  a  good  clump  of  from  twelve 
to  twenty  it  is  very  effective.  To  increase  stock, 
the  young  plants  that  are  thrown  up  from  the 
roots  should  be  potted  and  placed  in  a  close 
frame  until  they  are  established,  when  they 
can  either  be  planted  in  their  permanent  quarters 
or  kept  in  pots  and  used  for  the  greenhouse. 
The  variety  Pink  Perfection  is  an  improvement 
on  the  type,  being  bright  pink  in  colour  and, 
perhaps,  a  trifle  larger. — E.  C.  Poolby,  Qnaton 
Gardens,  Plymouth. 


Rose  Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot. 

I  note  Mr.  Molyneux's  remarks  anent  my  observa- 
tions on  the  growth  of  the  new  Rose  Ch;iteau 
de  Clos  Vougeot.  I  believe  I  wrote  (or,  at  any 
rate,  I  intended  to  do  so)  "I  should  not  describe 
it  as  a  rampant  grower,  but  with  me  it  breaks 
freely  from  the  base,  &;o."  I  had  thought  of 
writing  and  correcting  the  error,  but  retrained 
from  doing  so  as  I  considered  the  context 
showed  it  was  a  slip,  the  two  statements  being 
so  contradictory.  However,  as  Mr.  Molyneux 
mentions  the  matter  in  a  kindly  way,  I  think 
it  is  only  fair  to  myself  to  offer  some  explanation. 
I  hope  he  does  not  think  I  am  presuming  to 
criticise  his  notes  on  the  new  Roses.  Far  from  it. 
I  simply  thought  I  would  place  on  record  my 
experiences  of  this  Rose,  as  my  plants  were  on 
the  seedling  Briar  and  imported  direct  from  the 
raiser.  I  quite  appreciated  the  significance  of  Mr. 
Molyneux's  remarks  as  to  his  plants  being 
grafted,  and  hoped  to  put  at  rest  his  doubts  as  to 
the  growth  and  habit  of  this  variety. — B.  W. 
Price,  Gloucester. 

A  new  Saxift>age  and  its  pela- 
tions. — In  1907  a  new  Saxifrage  was  sent  to 
Kew  under  the  name  of  Saxifraga  madida,  and 
proves  to  be  intermediate  between  S.  Fortunei 
and  S.  cortusaefolia,  the  five  to  seven  lobed 
leaves  resembling  the  latter  in  the  depth  of  the 
lobes  and  the  sharpness  of  the  teeth.  The 
flowers  are  similar  to  those  of  S.  Fortunei  in  form 
and  size,  but  they  are  produced  in  a  widely 
pyramidal  panicle  and  bid  fair  to  be  more 
effective  than  those  of  its  two  most  closely 
related  species.  All  three  are  now  in  bloom  on 
the  rock  garden  at  Kew.  S.  madida  was  the  first 
to  bloom,  though  S.  cortussefolia  was  not  many 
days  behind  it.  The  flower-scapes  of  S.  Fortunei 
were  only  showing  themselves  among  the  foliage  at 
the  time,  and  would  be  about  ten  or  twelve  days 
later  in  reaching  the  same  stage  of  development. 
We  have  thus  a  trio  of  autumn-blooming  Saxi- 
frages of  no  mean  order  from  a  decorative  point 
of  view.  The  foliage  of  the  two  better-known 
species  is  just  a  trifle  susceptible  to  injury  from 
frost  after  the  flowering  period,  but  the  stout 
underground  rootstock  does  much  to  preserve 
them  in  well-drained  soils  during  winter.  One 
of  the  most  striking  characteristics  of  S.  madida 
is  the  round,  kidney-shaped  leaves.  The, flower- 
scapes  are  about  10  inches  high,  pale  purple  or 
green,  branched  and  forming  a  large  pyramidal 
panicle.  The  flowers  are  white,  and  one  or  two 
of  the  petals  are  twice  or  three  times  as  long  as 
the  rest.  This  latter  character  is  common  to  all 
the  species  of  the  section  (Diptera)  of  the  genus. 
Judging  from  the  specific  name,  S.  madida  grows 
in  wet  or  marshy  places  in  Japan,  and  if  grown 
in  pots,  as  the  others  frequently  are,  would 
require  a  good  deal  of  water  during  the  growing 
period.  When  planted  out,  a  site  should  be 
selected  for  it  where  the  soil  does  not  get  too 
dry  during  the  warmer  parts  of  summer.  S. 
Fortunei  seems  to  be  confined  to  China,  though 
it  may  yet  be  found  in  Japan,  for  when  Dr. 
Engler  wrote  about  it  in  1872  it  was  only  known 
in  English  gardens.  There  can  be  no  doubt, 
however,  that  all  three  are  closely  related.  The 
only  two  other  species  belonging  to  the  group 
are  S.  sarmentosa  and  S.  cusoutseformis,  both 
reproducing  themselves  by  runners  precisely  in 
the  same  way  as  the  Strawberry.  The  first- 
named  is  the  best  known,  being  widely  culti- 
vated both  in  this  country  and  on  the  Continent 
as  a  window  plant.  Moreover,  all  of  them  are 
well  adapted  for  pot  culture,  and  may  be  placed 
in  the  window  when  in  bloom.  They  last  a  long 
time  in  good  condition  under  such  circumstances, 
whatever  the  nature  of  the  weather  may  be 
outside,  and  when  they  cease  to  be  ornamental 
they  can  be  placed  in  a  cold  frame  for  the  winter. 
They  may  be  repotted  in  spring  if  that  is  neces- 
sary, placed  on  a  bed  of  ashes  in  the  open  air, 
and  given  plenty  of  water  when  in  full  growth. 
-J.  F. 

Polygonum  baldschuanlcum 

not     flOWePing. — in    your     "Answers     to 


November  6,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


539 


Correspondents "  recently  I  noticed  some  notes 
on  Polygonum  baldsehuanicum  not  flowering.  I 
have  had  exactly  the  same  experience  as  your 
correspondent  appears  to  have  had.  I  am  not 
sure  if  this  is  the  second  or  third  summer  I  have 
had  mine.  It  is  planted  in  light,  gritty  soil,  in 
full  sun,  and  has  growji  rampantly,  covering  the 
front  of  an  arch  ;  but  it  has  never  shown  the 
slightest  signs  of  flowering.  There  is  no  reason  I 
can  assign  for  this,  the  wood  being  well  ripened. 
I  wondered  if  my  plant  was  true  to  name  and  if 
I  had  another  Polygonum.  I  shall  have  it 
grubbed  up,  and  plant  another  and  see  what 
results.  If  you  think  the  matter  of  sufficient 
interest,  I  would  send  you  a  spray  for  inspection. 
I  think  I  have  a  good  knowledge  of  gardening, 
but  can  assign  no  reason  whatever  for  this  plant 
proving  barren  ;  it  certainly  flourishes  otherwise. 
It  will  be  interesting  to  see  if  your  notes  bring 
forth  other  experiences  like  mine. — Clements 
G.  0.  Bond,  Furze  Hills,  Churt,  near  Famham. 
[We  shall  be  glad  to  receive  a  spray.  Probably 
it  is  an  indifierent  seedling. — Ed.] 

In  The  Gabden,  page  523,  a  correspon- 
dent complains  that  Polygonum  baldsehuanicum 
has  not  flowered.  I  have  had  the  same  trouble 
with  a  plant  which  has  been  three  years  in  the 
same  spot  without  flowering.  Mr.  Morrison  told 
me  that  they  had  the  same  trouble  with  a  plant 
in  the  garden  at  Narrow  Water  House.  Is  it 
possible  that  there  is  a  non-flowering  variety  ?  On 
page  521  a  correspondent  asks  for  suggestions 
for  climbers  for  the  front  of  a  house.  I  was 
advised  to  wire  the  house  with  ordinary  wire- 
netting  and  plant  Muehlenbeckia  complexa  and 
Jasminum  nudiflorum  behind  the  netting,  and 
the  result  has  been  very  successful,  notwith- 
standing the  fact  that  the  wall  gets  very  little 
sun  and  is  exposed  to  the  sea  breeze. — S. 
Grahams  Connor,  M.B.,  Sea  View  Cottage, 
Warrenpoint,  Gounty  Down. 

Coloup  nomenclature.— Miss  .Jekyll's 
arguments  against  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  colour  chart  certainly  seem  to  tell  in 
favour  of  it.  It  is  precisely  because  of  the  difiier- 
enoe  of  individual  ideas  in  regard  to  colour  that 
a  recognised  standard  has  become  necessary.  In 
describing  certain  hues,  we  have  previously  had 
nothing  better  to  go  upon  than  an  imaginary 
similarity  to  Nature's  own  colouring  ;  and,  apart 
from  their  enormous  range  of  tones,  these  colours 
themselves  are  constantly  changing  in  accordance 
with  the  amount  of  transmitted  light,  the  state 
of  the  atmosphere  and  the  season  of  the  year. 
For  this  reason  some  fixed  standard  is  required, 
and  in  setting  names  to  the  colours  it  is  surely 
better  to  adopt  those  already  in  our  dictionary 
than  to  invent  others  that  would  convey  no  ideas 
to  us.  Popular  conception,  after  all,  is  the  only 
criterion  in  the  case  of  "  unwritten  law,"  and 
this  has  been  aptly  interpreted  by  the  committee. 
•'Azure"  and  "flame"  have  been  pressed  into 
service  as  a  matter  of  convenience,  though  I 
suspect  the  latter  was  originally  coined  to  meet 
the  needs  of  some  enterprising  draper.  We  all 
have  our  own  ideas  on  the  subject  of  colour,  and, 
of  course,  "  every  single  one  of  them  is  right." 
But  who  is  to  decide  between  us  if  not  a  com- 
mittee of  authorities  such  as  that  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  1  And  now  that  a  practical 
solution  of  the  difficulty  is  in  sight,  it  seems  a  pity 
to  attempt  to  override  these  carefully  prepared 
descriptions,  even  though  we  are  called  upon  to 
give  up  some  of  our  preconceived  ideas  of  what 
should  constitute  "  mauve,"  for  instance.  We 
shall  in  turn  be  spared  the  worry  of  having 
"lavender"  erroneously  described  to  us  as 
"heliotrope."  It  is  because  we  have  hitherto 
been  without  guidance  on  this  subject  that  the 
present  obvious  contusion  has  arisen.  The 
individual  imagination  is  frequently  at  fault  in 
regard  to  colour  description,  and  I  venture  to 
assert  that  a  perusal  of  the  catalogues  of  some  of 
our  leading  growers  of  Roses  and  Sweet  Peas  will 
convince  most  of  us  how  misleading  are  the  con- 
ceptions of  others. — P.  L.  Goddard,  67  aiid  US, 
Cheapaide,  E.G. 


NOTES      MADE 
CRAWLEY. 


AT 


A  T  the  end  of  the  third  week  in  October 

/%  we  had  the  pleasure  of  spending  a 

/  %         day  with  Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons 

/      ^       at  their  Lowfield  Nurseries,  Crawley, 

y         ^     Sussex,  a  firm  that   has   long  been 

famed  for  Dahlias,  Roses,  and  fruit 

trees  ;   hence  we  found  plenty  that  was  of  more 

than  usual  interest  on  the  occasion  of  our  visit. 

Situated   on  the    main  road    from    London    to 

Brighton,   these   extensive   nurseries  are  easily 

accessible  by  motor,  and,  needless  to  say,  the  heads 

of  the  various  departments  are  always  pleased  to 

show  visitors  whatever  they  may  desire  to  see. 

Dahlias  commanded  our  attention  first,  and  we 
doubt  whether  any  other  firm  has  done  more  to 
improve  and  popularise  the  single  varieties  than 
Messrs.  Cheal,  who  have  for  long  devoted  con- 
siderable attention  to  this  type.  Those  who  only 
know  the  single  Dahlias  by  the  old,  large,  coarse 


type  of  Cactus  Dahlia,  dwarfed  its  growth,  made 
its  flowers  smaller  and  placed  them  where  we 
have  been  accustomed  to  find  the  leaves,  trans- 
ferring the  latter  nearly  out  of  sight.  For  garden 
decoration  these  Pompon  Cactus  Dahlias  surely 
have  a  great  future  before  them.  Messrs.  Cheal 
have  a  very  large  and  beautiful  collection.  The 
Bride,  pure  white  ;  Coronation,  brilliant  scarlet ; 
and  Modesty,  flesh  colour  edged  cherry  red  and  a 
superb  flower,  being  three  that  we  favoured. 

Then  there  were  the  Pompons  proper — such  a 
wealth  of  varieties,  including  all  sorts  of  colours, 
the  dainty  and  perfectly  shaped  flowers  standing 
up  well  above  the  foliage.  Messrs.  Cheal  send 
Dahlia  tubers  to  all  parts  of  the  world,  these  being 
specially  grown  in  small  pots  so  as  to  get  them 
hard  and  well  ripened,  and  we  saw  thousands 
that  would  undoubtedly  travel  to  any  portion  of 
the  globe  and  arrive  there  in  good  condition. 

Roses  were  the  next  to  claim  our  attention, 
and  these  we  found  of  first-class  quality,  the 
maiden  climbers  being  particularly  strong  and 
well    ripened,   many  of    them    having    growth 


A  RARE   P^ONY   (p^OKIA    VElTCHIl).     (See  yage.  SIS.) 


flowers  of  a  decade  or  two  ago  have  no  idea  of 
the  beauty  of  the  varieties  which  have  been 
raised  by  Messrs.  Cheal  during  recent  years. 
Not  only  are  these  splendid  subjects  for  garden 
decoration  during  the  late  summer  and  autumn 
months,  but  they  are  also  excellent  for  cutting  at 
a  season  when  bright  flowers  other  than  those  of 
yellow  colour  are  far  from  plentiful.  A  few  that 
specially  appealed  to  us  were  Flambeau,  white, 
heavily  edged  crimson-scarlet ;  Flora,  a  sort  of 
orange  terra  -  cotta ;  Winona,  deep  velvety 
maroon  ;  Columbine,  the  flowers  of  which  remind 
one  of  the  delicate  fulgent  rose  hue  found  in  the 
newer  Columbines  ;  and  Miss  Morland,  rich 
crimson-scarlet.  Then  there  were  the  Pompon 
Cactus  varieties  that  no  one  could  help  admiring. 
Imagine  a  sturdy,  spreading  bush  some  3  feet  in 
diameter  and  the  same  in  height  literally  covered 
with  small  but  beautifully  shaped  Cactus  Dahlias, 
all  of  which  are  held  well  above  the  foliage  and, 
in  fact,  nearly  obscure  it,  and  you  have  a 
moderately  good  idea  of  the  beauty  of  this  race. 
It  would  seem  that  raisers  have  taken  the  old 


10  feet  to  12  feet  long.  As  all  the  leading  sorts 
and  types  were  to  be  seen,  there  is  no  need  for  us 
to  enumerate  them  ;  all  were  in  an  exceedingly 
healthy  condition  and  possessed  great  vigour. 

Of  fruit  trees  we  inspected  many  thousands  of 
all  sorts,  sizes  and  shapes,  from  maidens  to  large, 
frequently  transplanted  specimens  that  come  in 
exceedingly  useful  for  filling  up  gaps  in  young 
orchards.  Messrs.  Cheal  have  a  thoroughly  up- 
to-date  collection,  and  trained  trees  and  cordons 
are  a  sppciality.  The  new  Apple  Encore,  raised 
by  Mr.  Charles  Ross  by  crossing  Warner's  King 
with  Northern  Greening,  we  were  able  to  see 
growing,  and  undoubtedly  this  is  one  of  the 
culinary  Apples  of  the  future.  The  growth  is 
sturdy  and  strong,  and  the  fruits  are  freely  pro- 
duced on  young  trees,  being  dark  green  in  colour 
and  keeping  good  until  June  ;  the  flavour  when 
cooked  is  said  to  be  first-class.  The  new  Pear 
BeurriS  de  Naghan,  which  created  much  interest 
when  shown  by  Messrs.  Cheal  in  December  last 
year,  we  were  also  pleased  to  see.  This  is  a 
superb  golden  yellow,   smooth-skinned   variety 


540 


THE     GARDEN. 


(November  6,  i909. 


when  ripe,  the  white  flesh  being  very  sweet, 
juicy  and  melting.  Moreover,  there  is  no  gritti- 
ness  or  hardness  to  be  found,  Plum  Crimson 
Drop  is  another  new  fruit  of  which  Messrs.  Cheal 
have  a  good  stock,  this  being  a  sport  from  the 
well-known  Coe's  Golden  Drop,  which  it  resembles 
in  every  way  except  colour.  We  were  pleased 
to  notice  a  large  house  of  well-ripened  pot  Vines, 
which  should  give  a  good  account  of  themselves 
in  the  future.  Orchard-house  trees  in  pots  are 
also  largely  grown,  and  we  have  never  seen  larger 
fruits  of  Apple  Peasgood's  Nonsuch  than  Messrs. 
Cheal  have,  the  choicer  Pears  also  carrying 
wonderful  crops  of  high  quality  fruit. 

Hardy  trees  and  shrubs  occupy  a  vast  amount 
of  space  at  these  nurseries,  and  we  spent  several 
hours  among  these,  all  being  of  very  good  quality 
indeed.  Lack  of  space  forbids  detailed  mention 
of  these,  but  we   may  say  that   practically  all 


race  of  autumn  fruits — have  come  the  larger 
St.  Antoine  de  Padoue,  of  which  St.  Joseph  is 
one  of  the  parents  and  the  popular  Royal 
Sovereign  the  other  ;  and  Laxton's  Perpetual,  in 
which  also  the  popular  St.  Joseph  has  been  used 
as  one  parent  and  the  large  Monarch  or  summer 
fruiter  the  other,  and  it  is  certainly  a  fine  fruit  of 
the  autumn  type,  richer  than  St.  Antoine  de 
Padoue  and  the  shape  more  after  Monarch,  with  a 
deep  red  colour  and  good  flavour.  Doubtless  the 
varieties  noted  above  are  only  the  forerunners  of 
a  distinct  type  of  autumn-fruiting  Strawberries. 
Of  other  alpine  forms  there  are  some  good 
varieties,  such  as  Alpine  White  or  the  Blanc 
Ameliore  of  the  French ;  Bergeri,  a  rich  crimson, 
medium-sized  fruit  and  a  very  free  bearer ;  and 
one  that  is  a  great  favourite  at  Gunnersbury 
House  called  The  Gunnersbury,  a  large,  long  fruit, 
deep  red  and  very  prolific. 


WHITE  HEBBACEOnS  FLOWERS   AND   WATER  LILIES. 


kinds  of  ornamental  and  forest  deciduous  and 
evergreen  trees  and  shrubs  are  grown  on  an 
extensive  scale.  We  have  seldom  met  with  a 
more  healthy-looking  lot  of  conifers  than  we  saw 
here.  Then  there  were  the  clipped  trees,  which 
are  said  to  be  coming  into  favour  again.  These 
are  actually  grown  by  Messrs.  Cheal,  and  the 
large  stock  contains  specimens  that  should  suit 
all  kinds  of  tastes.  Rhododendrons  and  other 
American  plants.  Bamboos  and  all  kinds  of  choice 
shrubs  we  saw  in  their  hundreds,  and  all  had 
that  bold,  sturdy  appearance  that  augurs  well 
for  future  success. 

Naturally  the  herbaceous  plants  were  almost 
at  rest,  but  Messrs.  Cheal  have  a  splendid  stock 
of  all  kinds  and  the  best  varieties,  their  pink- 
flowered  Lupine  being  not  the  least  among  them. 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN. 

AUTUMN-FRUITING  STRAWBERRIES 
FOR   AMATEURS. 

THIS  season,  in  many  parts  of  the 
country,  has  not  been  a  favourable 
one  for  the  ripening  of  late  fruits  ;  on 
the  other  hand,  the  plants  have  made 
fine  crowns  and  promise  well  for  the 
future.  There  are  now  several  dis- 
tinct autumn-fruiting  varieties,  and  they  can  be 
grown  at  a  small  cost  as  regards  labour  and  space, 
so  that  they  should  in  the  future  become  better 
known.  Since  the  advent  of  the  earliest 
introduction,  St.  Joseph  —  raised  in  France 
by  crossing  a  true  alpine  with  a  garden 
variety,  which  furnished  us  with  an  entirely  new 


Of  true  perpetual  types,  last  year  I  noted  a 
fine  lot  of  the  new  Alphonse  XIII.,  a  round, 
white-fleshed  fruit,  rich  and  good ;  but  white  fruits 
do  not  find  much  favour  in  this  country,  and  I 
prefer  the  larger  Louis  Gauthier,  a  pale  white 
with  pinkish  shade  and  of  excellent  flavour. 

In  the  culture  of  these  Strawberries  the  work, 
to  yield  a  latie  supply,  should  be  varied.  For  use 
in  August  and  September  I  prefer  an  open,  sunny 
quarter,  and  if  the  runners  are  planted  in  well- 
cultivated  soil  enriched  with  manure  they  will 
give  an  early  crop.  For  instance,  runners  planted 
in  the  autumn  will  give  a  full  crop  in  August  and 
September  of  the  following  year.  I  have  planted 
in  April  and  had  a  good  autumn  supply.  As  I 
have  previously  noted,  the  perpetuals  are  mostly 
of  compact  habit ;  but  there  is  no  gain  in  crowding, 
as  the  fruit  is  produced  at  a  season  when  the 
days  are  shortening  and  the  sun  less  powerful. 
It  is  an  advantage  to  give  room,  so  that  the  fruits 
are  freely  exposed.  If  planted  in  rows  18  inches 
apart  and  12  inches  between  the  plants,  this 
will  suflSoe,  but  I  prefer  more  room  between  the 
plants  in  the  row. 

Runners  are  produced  freely,  and  these  may 
be  detached  from  the  plants  into  3-inoh  pots 
when  ready,  and  when  strong  enough  placed  in 
.5-inch  pots  for  November  supplies,  removing 
flowers  as  they  show  till  the  end  of  August.  1 
prefer  to  plunge  the  pots,  as  it  saves  watering. 
These  plants,  if  placed  on  shelves  early  in  October, 
will  give  the  latest  fruits,  and  they  will  take 
liberal  supplies  of  food.  Another  plan,  and  one 
that  will  meet  with  more  general  approval,  is  to 
pot  up  strong  runners  in  June  or  July  direct  into 
the  fruiting  pots  and  grow  on  a  cool  coal-ash  base 
through    the    summer,   keeping  them    clear  of 


runners  and  flowers  till  the  end  of  August,  or 
even  later  for  a  November  supply.  When  housed 
the  plants  require  very  little  warmth  to  set  and 
swell  up  their  trusses  ;  50°  to  6(t°  is  ample,  and 
they  do  well  on  shelves.  If  grown  in  a  frame, 
moisture  must  be  given  sparingly  when  the 
weather  is  sunless,  and  the  plants  should  be  near 
the  light  and  ventilated  freely  in  fine  weather. 
Plants  may  be  placed  in  frames  in  October  and 
merely  sheltered  from  heavy  rains,  transferring 
them  to  the  shelves  as  required  ;  by  this  means 
fruit  may  be  had  in  December. 

In  the  open  runners  planted  in  autumn  fruit 
early  in  August,  and  spring  runners  give  a  later 
crop,  but  here  the  same  procedure  is  required  as 
regards  removing  the  earlier  blossoms  to  get  the 
fruits  at  the  season  required.  It  is  well  to  plant 
in  both  autumn  and  spring  to  get  a  long  succes- 
sion of  fruit.  G.  Wythes. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

A  WHITE  GARDEN. 

*'  It  lives  ill  such  a  sweet  content, 
With  flowers  bt-low,  and  stars  above 
Dreamful,  and  white,  and  innocent." 


M 


ANY  a  lovely  garden  has  the  writer 
seen  in  bowery  England  and  fair 
France,  but  never  one  so  strangely, 
mystically  beautiful  as  the  White 
(rarden  that  is  hidden  away  in  a 
green  corner  of  the  Midlands,  a 
part  of  England  where,  as  a  rule,  hunting  is  a 
more  popular  pursuit  than  horticulture  and 
horses  are  more  talked  about  than  flowers.  But 
here  is  the  white  garden  and  a  thing  of  joy  it  is. 
For  the  benefit  of  any  who  may  be  contemplating 
the  making  of  such  a  garden  for  themselves,  a  few 
words  of  description  shall  be  given,  together 
with  a  list  of  the  flowers  that  were  noticeable  in 
it  during  the  month  of  -Tuly.  Nearly  all  the 
flowers  mentioned  were  in  bloom.  Other  white 
flowers  for  spring  and  autumn  blooming  can 
easily  be  chosen  from  the  florists'  catalogues. 

Some  might  imagine  that  a  garden  equipped 
entirely  and  solely  with  white  flowers  would  be 
insipid.  Truth  to  tell,  a  Maori  Chief,  who  wandered 
in  it  one  day  this  summer,  begged  almost 
pathetically  that  a  few  blue  and  red  flowers 
should  be  admitted.  "So  mournful  it  looks,"  said 
he.  But  this  is  by  no  means  the  impression  it 
made  on  us  or  would  have  made  on  most 
English  people.  White  flowers  with  a  back- 
ground of  green  trees  and  blue  sky  are  more 
lovely  than  any  others,  and  they  can  better 
bear  massing.  The  many  differing  shades  of 
white,  too,  preclude  anything  like  monotony. 
Besides,  how  exquisite  are  white  flowers 
always,  everywhere  and  on  almost  all  occasions  ! 
White — the  pure  raiment  of  "the  babe,  the 
bride,  the  quiet  dead  "  ;  white — the  wondrous 
harmony  of  all  colours  ;  white — the  light-colour 
of  Sirius,  our  most  glorious  fixed  star ;  white — 
the  fair  array  of  Christ's  own  "  Lilies  of  the 
field."  Does  not  white  stand  for  truth,  for 
purity,  for  candour  and  for  innocence  ?  No 
wonder  we  so  dearly  love  white  flowers. 

A  white  garden  should,  if  possible,  have 
beautiful  surroundings.  A  lofty  note  is  struck, 
with  which  all  else  should  be  in  unison.  The 
garden  of  which  I  write  stands  on  the  left  side 
of  broad  green  lawns  that  face  the  house.  On 
the  right  hand  is  a  large  space  given  up  entirely 
to  Roses.  Roses  of  every  hue  are  here,  pink, 
crimson,  cream,  white,  and  yellow,  climbing, 
tumbling,  cascading  or  standing  sturdily,  each 
after  its  own  fashion  ;  Roses  mixed  red-and- 
white,  too  (the  dear  old-fashioned  York  and 
Lancasters),  as  well  as  Moss  Roses,  Scotch  Roses, 
and  every  kind  of  Rose  that  can  be  dreamed  of. 
Leaving  the  Rose  garden  and  pacing  through 
another  garden  that  is  brilliant  with  blue  and 
yellow  flowers,  and  passing  by  a  sunk  garden 
into  which  more  of  the  pink  and  red  Roses  are 
overflowing,  we  oome  presently  to  a  fair  stretch 


November  6,  1909.] 


THE     GAEDEN. 


541 


be 


of  woodland  lying  to  the  left.  This  was  onoe  a 
part  of  the  park,  but  is  now  made  into  a  sort  of 
Paridise  for  all  the  flowers  that  are  colourless. 

So  gently  are  we  led  up  to  this  white  Fairy- 
land that  it  seems  to  steal  upon  us  like  magic. 
There  are  no  barriers  at  the  entrance ;  stiffness 
and  formality  are  banished  altogether  : 
"  Where  the  guardian  fence  is  wound, 
So  subtly  are  our  eyes  beguiled, 
We  see  not  nor  expect  a  bound 
No  more  than  in  some  forest." 

This  is  how  a  White  Garden  should 
fashioned,  to  look  as  if  Nature  herself,  in 
playful  mood,  had  been  allowing  some  poet's 
fantastic  dreamings  to  come  true. 

Drifts  of  Foxgloves  are  the  first  inhabitants  to 
greet  us,  hundreds  and  hundreds  of  them,  a 
maze  of  white  and  green.  Green-and-white 
shrubs  and  trees  overshadow  them,  and  here  and 
there  a  woodland  tree  with  Runic  writings  on 
the  old  gnarled  stem.  A  little  further  on  we 
come  to  winding  walks  and  alleys,  where  white 
Pinks,  white  Roses,  white  Flame  Flowers  and 
white  Lilies,  with  a  thousand  other  white- 
flowering  trees,  shrubs  and  plants,  are  budding 
and  blooming,  all  wild  with  joy  to  find  them- 
selves in  such  a  happy  place.  We  pass  beneath 
bowers  and  arches  of  snowy,  fragrant  Roses. 
For  one  of  the  Rose  wreaths  apologies  are  made. 
The  faintest  tinge  of  pink  has  crept  into  it. 
"  These  little  accidents  will  happen  in  the  best 
regulated  white  gardens,"  remarks  the  Queen  of 
the  garden,  smiling.  "  We  pardon  it,  because  it 
is  so  pretty. " 

It  is  surprising  how  many  plants  contrive  to 
don  the  wedding  garment.  Forget-me-nots,  for 
once,  discard  their  frocks  of  blue  and  put  on 
white  ones  ;  Violas,  Campanulas  and  Canterbury 
Bells  leave  mauves  and  blues  at  home  ;  they  all 
come  out  in  white.  So  do  the  Daisies — not  a 
yellow  petal  among  them ;  all  the  flowers  wear 
angel's  colours,  and  well  white  suits  them.  Is 
not  white  famous  for  suiting  everybody  ? 

One  large  bed  is  devoted  entirely  to  white 
Heather,  but  it  was  not  in  bloom  when  we  saw  it. 
A  good  deal  of  thought  is  required  to  keep  a 
white  garden  equally  beautiful  and  equally  white 
throughout  the  seasons.  As  in  all  other  gardens, 
blossoms  come  and  go.  Perfection  is  never 
easy. 

Right  in  the  heart  of  the  garden  is  a  pool 
or  fountain,  wherein  white  Lilies  are  happily 
floating. 

And  the  paths,  what  of  them  ?  No  golden 
gravel  here,  but  instead  of  that,  white  crushed 
marble.  In  moonlight,  especially,  the  shining 
white  paths  have  a  ghostly  beauty.  At  dusk, 
and  in  the  blue  darkness  of  a  summer  night,  the 
white  flowers  themselves  shine  out  as  if  with 
some  unearthly  inner  radiance.  Coloured  flowers 
would  be  invisible,  but  the  white  flowers  are  shin- 
ing and  gleaming  and  their  scent  is  more  delicious 
than  ever.  "  White  Roses  dream  there,  Syringa 
flowers,  Phloxes  and  many  hundreds  of  flowers, 
white,  all  white — softly  they  laugh  and  whisper 
together  in  my  garden  that  is  white."  So  wrote 
their  mistress,  in  one  of  her  novels  :  "  There  is 
nothing  in  all  the  world  so  beautiful  as  a  white 
garden  in  moonlight,  when  day  is  dead  and 
blackness  is  over  the  rest  of  the  world.  The 
nightingales  have  found  it  so  and  sing  me  heart- 
breaking melodies." 

List  or  White  Flowers. 
Olearia  Haastii,  Weigela  Candida,  Lupine, 
Eremurus  himalaious,  a  plant  of  great  beauty 
which  grows  in  the  same  soil  that  suits 
Lilium  auratum  ;  Cerastium,  Japanese  Anemone, 
Robinia  semperflorens,  a  charming  plant  for 
lawn  and  shrubbery,  flowering  all  the  summer  ; 
Funkia,  Lilac,  Broom,  Poppies,  Gypsophila, 
Violas,  Pinks,  Carnations,  Yucca,  Dahlias, 
Stocks,  Snapdragons,  Phlox,  Sweet  William, 
Everlasting  Pea,  Sweet  Pea,  Corncockle, 
Mexican  Orange  Flower,  Myrtle,  Syringa, 
Spiriea,  Nicotiana,  Hydrangea  panioulata,  Lilies 
of     many     kinds,     Crambe    cordifolia,     white 


Rhododendrons,  Peonies,  Iris,  Candytuft,  Moss 
Roses,  white  Bleeding  Hearts,  Sweet  Woodruff, 
Vinoa,  Arenaria  balearioa  and  other  white 
Rock  plants,  Magnolias,  double  white  Rockets, 
Dictamnus  (Fraxinella)  and  many  white-leaved 
Grasses.  This  list  is  by  no  means  exhaustive, 
but  gives  some  idea.  Every  gardener  will  add 
to  the  number  of  plants  easily. 

Fkances  a.  Babdswbll. 
["The  White  Garden"  was  designed   by  its 
owner,  "Irene  Osgood,"now  Mrs.  R.  Harborough- 
Sherard,  of  Guilsborough    Hall,    Northampton, 
the  well-known  writer.  ] 


SWEET  PEA  CHAT. 
Seed-sowing.  —The  harvest  of  the  present  season 
was  so  extremely  late  that  the  probabilities  are 
that  many  growers  have  not  yet  got  in  their  full 
supplies  of  seeds,  much  less  have  sown  them  all 
in  the  pots  or  boxes  in  frames.  Although  about 
the  middle  of  October  may  usually  be  regarded 
as  the  ideal  time,  it  is,  like  all  other  operations  in 
gardening,  a  movable  feast,  and  little  is  lost  by 
postponement  for  a  week  or  more  either  from 
choice  or  necessity.  However,  those  who  adopt 
autumn  sowing  should  now  push  forward  the 
work  with  all  possible  speed,  so  as  to  give  the 
young  plants  every  opportunity  to  make  an 
excellent  start  before  the  really  bad  weather 
sets  in. 

Condition  of  Seeds.— It  is  much  to  be  feared 
that  amateurs  of  limited  experience  will  find 
themselves  somewhat  disappointed  by  the  appear- 
ance of  the  seeds  of  a  few  varieties.    As  a  general 


do,  he  can  easily  dig  out  the  seeds,  and  if,  as 
is  more  than  probable,  they  remain  hard,  he 
can  chip  and  reset  them,  and  all  will  certainly 
go  well. 

Soil  Moistitrb. —Notwithstanding  the  fact 
that  the  subject  of  watering  has  been  alluded  to 
on  more  than  one  occasion,  it  will  not  be  amiss 
to  refer  to  it  again.  None  of  the  white-seeded 
varieties,  or  those  that  have  mauve  or  lavender 
in  their  colouring,  such  as  The  Marquis,  Rosie 
Adams,  Mrs.  Charles  Mander  and  others,  will 
stand  as  much  moisture  in  the  soil  as  the  black- 
seeded  sorts;  as  a  matter  of  fact,  those  who 
would  go  as  far  as  is  humanly  possible  to  abso- 
lutely ensure  success,  should  sow  all  of  these  in 
a  surfacing  of  sand  above  more  than  usually  sandy 
compost ;  the  sand  will  not  hold  the  water  to 
the  same  degree  as  the  soil,  and  the  danger  of 
rotting  will  therefore  be  proportionately  reduced. 
In  all  instances  it  is  wise  to  err  on  the  side  of 
dryness  rather  than  on  that  of  wetness  ;  it  is  true 
that  this  may  mean  a  little  longer  time  in  ger- 
mination, but  fewer  seeds  will  be  lost  through 
rot.  If  the  soil  is  pleasantly  moist,  as  it  certainly 
ought  to  be,  at  the  moment  of  use,  and  the  pots 
are  stood  in  frames,  it  will  be  some  time  before  a 
supply  of  water  will  be  needed,  but  the  compost 
must  not  be  allowed  to  become  and  remain  as 
dry  as  dust.  After  germination  water  must  be 
given  regularly  just  in  advance  of  dryness  of 
the  soil,  so  as  to  keep  the  plants  in  persistently 
steady  progress  at  the  roots,  if  not  in  the  top 
growth. 

Shortness    of    Stocks. —Several   weeks    ago 
readers  of  The  Garden  were  warned  that  stocks 


EOSBS   IN   the    white   GARDEN. 


rule  the  samples  are  splendid,  but  in  several 
instances  the  seeds  are  spotted,  and  in  others 
they  are  rather  more  wrinkled  than  one  expects  to 
see  them.  The  grower  need  not  worry  over  either 
of  these  points,  for,  provided  that  he  manages 
matters  properly,  they  will  germinate  as  quickly 
and  grow  away  as  strongly  as  a  perfect  sample. 
The  assumption  that  it  is  only  af  terdry,  hot  seasons 
that  it  is  essential  that  seeds  shall  be  chipped 
prior  to  sowing  to  encourage  quicker  germination 
is  not  borne  out  with  all  varieties  this  year,  for 
I  have  found  it  necessary  to  have  recourse  to 
this  simple  expedient  with  one  or  two  black- 
seeded  sorts.  However,  this  is  not  an  important 
point,  for  the  simple  reason  that,  if  a  grower 
finds  that  the    seedlings  do  not  come  through 


of  all  the  novelties  would  be  extremely  limited, 
and  they  were  advised  to  place  their  orders  early  in 
order  to  prevent  disappointment;  but  few  of  us 
realised  how  poor  the  harvest  would  be.  There  is 
probably  not  one  modem  waved  standard  variety 
that  has  yielded  more  than  a  third  of  the  antici- 
pated crop  of  seed,  and  in  the  case  of  at  least 
half-a-dozen  sterling  novelties  distribution  will 
have  to  be  deferred  until  next  season,  owing  to 
almost  complete  failure.  The  loss  to  seed-growers 
is  enormous,  and  it  will  be  impossible  for  them  to 
fully  recoup  themselves  by  the  slight  increase  in 
prices  which  will  be  necessary  to  give  all  culti- 
vators a  reasonable  chance  of  securing  a  share, 
the  augmentation  being  secured  by  reducing  the 
number   of    seeds   in    the   packet   and   not    by 


as  soon  as   he    considers   that    they   ought   to  |  actually  raising  the  cost.     However,  as  long  as 


542 


THE    GAKDEN. 


fNoVKMBER   6,  Wi9. 


the  seeds  germinate  well,  the  enthusiastic 
grower  will  not  worry  much  because  he  only 
has  ten  seeds  in  a  packet  of  a  variety  that 
has  previously  given  him  twelve  or  perhaps 
fifteen  at  the  same  prime 
cost.  Spencer. 


P.EONIA  VEITCHII. 
Although  the  Pisony 
family  is  represented  in 
gardens  by  a  number  of 
beautiful  species,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  numerous 
and  lovely  forms  of  P. 
albiflora,  an  addition  to 
their  number  is  always 
welcome.  This  is  especi- 
ally so  when  the  plant  is 
elegant  in  growth  and 
has  attractive  flowers. 
The  latter,  however,  are 
not  so  large  as  in  many 
of  the  older  kinds,  but 
they  are  produced  freely 
on  branching  stems.  P. 
Veitchii  was  introduced 
by  Messrs.  .1.  Veitch  and 
Sons  through  their  col- 
lector, Mr.  Wilson.  It 
comes  from  the  uplands 
around  Tatien-lu,  on  the 
frontiers  of  China  and 
Tibet,  at  an  elevation  of 
from  8, (KDO  feet  to  11,0(X) 
feet,  and  is  usually  found 
on  the  margins  of 
thickets.  At  first  sight 
it  somewhat  resembles 
the  well  •  known  P. 
anomala,  but  it  differs 
in  having  branching 
stems  bearing  several 
flowers,  while  P.  anomala 
usually  bears  only  one 
on  each  stem.  It  is  also 
quite  a  month  later  in 
flowering,  taller  growing 
and  with  foliage  having 
broader  leaflets.  Like 
most  other  Pseonias,  it 
likes  a  rich,  loamy  soil 
and  grows  well  in  partial 
shade,  and  should  make 
an  excellent  plant  for 
the  wild  garden  or  open 
woodland.  It  makes  a 
good  bushy  plant  and 
grows  freely  in  the  open 
border,  while  some 
planted  out  in  the  wild 
garden  are  also  doing 
well.  Owing  to  the 
peculiar  smell  possessed 
by  the  plant  it  is  known 
in  China  by  a  native 
name  meaning  "stinking 
Moutan."  The  purplish 
crimson  flowers  are  borne 
on  somewhat  drooping 
stalks,  which  gives  the 
plant  a  graceful  appear- 
ance. W.  Irving. 


I  find  in  my  light  gravelly  soil  it  does  well  j  wait  until  the  shoot  is  well  through  the  grojnd 
if  planted  early  in  autumn  and  not  too  deeply,  I  before  applying  it,  so  that  it  may  not  force  the 
that  is,  4  inches  to  6  inches  of  soil  only  over  the  1  plant  in  any  way.  I  used  to  protect  the  leaves 
crown.     I  pour  a  potful  of  silver  sand  over  the   a  little  at  first,  but  now  find  it  better  not  to  do 

so,  as  then  they  devebp 
more  slowly  and  better 
escape  damage  from  late 
frosts.  To  those  in- 
terested in  this  hand- 
some genus,  the  mono- 
graph recently  published 
by  Mme.  ledtsohenko 
should  prove  of  great 
service. 

The  flowers  of  Eremuri 
are  distinctly  protan- 
drous.  The  anther  cells 
burst  soon  after  the 
opening  of  each  flower, 
and  the  orange  pollen  on 
these  makes  a  distinct 
zone  of  colour  around  the 
spike.  At  this  period  of 
the  individual  flower's 
life  the  pistil  is  bent 
downwards  at  an  obtuse 
angle,  so  as  to  be  out  of 
the  way  of  pollen  from 
its  own  flower,  and  not 
until  the  pollen  is  shed 
does  it  lengthen  and 
stand  out  straight  ready 
to  receive  the  visiting 
bee  laden  with  pollen 
from  another  flower.  I 
have  noticed  that  the 
bees  generally  work  up- 
wards on  the  spike,  so 
the  lower  and  older 
flowers,  being  first 
visited,  are  usually  fer- 
tilised with  pollen  from 
another  spike  and  oross- 
fertilisation  thus 
effected.  K.  A.  Bowi,ES. 
Waltham  Cross. 


EREMURUS  ROBUS- 
TUS  ELWESIANUS. 
This  is  the  earliest  to 
flower  and  the  grandest 
in  aspect  of  this  fine 
family,  and  with  its 
white  form  provides  the 
most  desirable  couple  of 
them  all  for  garden  effect. 

It  also  appears  to  be  as  vigorous  in  constitution 
as  any,  and  should  do  well  anywhere  in  the 
United  Kingdom  provided  it  can  be  given  good 
drainage  and  a  thorough  ripening  after  flowering. 


COLOURED 
PLATE. 

PLATE    1386. 


O' 


THE    NEW    ROSE   CLAnDIUS. 


(Ser  page  .T//''.) 


orown  bud,  and  then  gently  lift  it  to  allow,  the 
sand  to  sift  under  between  the  spoke-like  roots. 
A  mulch  of  manure  in  early  spring  certainly 
helps  vigorous  growth,  but  I  find  it  is  best  to 


ROSE     AxViERICAN 
PILLAR. 

NE  of  the  plants 
that  attracted 
attention  at 
the  f 1 ow  er 
show  in  the  Temple 
Gardens  this  year  was 
the  Rose  American 
Pillar.  It  is  a  single 
variety  with  rich  rose- 
coloured  flowers,  as  the 
plate  shows,  and  this 
beautiful  shade  is  set 
off  by  golden  stamens  in 
the  centre.  American 
Pillar  will  be  much 
grown  in  the  future 
and  rank  among  the 
most  popular  of  climb- 
ing Roses  ;  it  is  strong 
in  growth,  free-flowering 
and  in  all  ways  a  charm- 
ing addition  to  the 
already  large  list  of 
climbing  varieties. 
Messrs.  Cannelland  Sons 
of  Swanley  have  exhibited  many  lovely  flowers, 
but  few  more  so  than  this,  and  we  are  indebted 
to  them  for  the  flowers  from  which  the  accom- 
panying coloured  plate  was  prepared. 


<U,:) 


November  6,  1909. 


THE    GAEDEN 


543 


THE     ROSE     GARDEN. 


NOTES   ON  NEWER  ROSES.— VII. 

Hybkid  Tbas. 

(Continued  from  page  52S.) 

JOHANNA  SEBUS  (Dr.  MilUer,  1899).— 
I  have  yet  to  eome  across  a  bad  Rose 
sent  out  by  this  amateur,  and  in 
.Johanna  Sebus  we  have  a  real  good 
one.  I  have  grown  it  now  for  three  or 
four  years,  and  have  recommended  it 
freely  to  trade  and  amateur  alike,  and  everyone 
has  been  pleased  with  it.  Its  distinguishing 
feature  is  its  scent,  that  stands 
by  itself  ;  I  know  no  other  Rose 
scent  like  it.  It  is  really  deli- 
ciously  fragrant,  reminiscent  of  a 
fruit  of  some  kind,  possibly 
Nectarine  or  Peach,  or  a  combina- 
tion of  the  two.  The  flowers  are 
large,  and  in  colour  deep  rose 
pink  of  a  cerise  shade  that  is 
very  bright,  and  contrasts  well 
with  the  bronzy  red  foliage.  The 
plant  grows  treely  up  to  8  feet 
and  is  an  ideal  pillar  Rose,  flower- 
ing right  through  the  autumn. 
Those  who  do  not  know  this 
Rose  are  strongly  advised  to  try 
it.  To  get  back  to  the  newer 
Roses  within  the  meaning  of  the 
term. 

John  Cuff  (Alex.  Dickson  and 
Sons,  1908). — The  raisers  were 
unusually  modest  in  their  descrip- 
tion of  this  Rose ;  at  least,  I  think 
so.  They  make  no  claim  on  its 
behalf  as  an  exhibition  variety, 
and  call  it  a  valuable  garden 
Rose.  It  is  that,  but  I  think 
it  will  be  more  grown  by  the 
exhibitor  than  they  seem  to 
anticipate.  It  is  a  great  flower, 
yet  not  coarse  ;  colour,  a  good 
carmine,  deep  rather  than  light, 
with  the  familiar  yellow  patch  at 
the  bottom  of  the  petals.  For 
such  a  recent  introduction  it 
has  been  unusually  freely  exhi- 
bited, and  I  think  it  has  a  future 
on  the  exhibition  boards.  It  is 
scented,  but  not  strongly  so — 
what  the  catalogues  term  deli- 
cately perfumed.  It  is  a  vigorous 
grower  and  altogether  will  prove, 
I  think,  a  useful  Rose ;  one  of  the 
surprises  of  the  season,  I  may 
term  it,  so  far  as  I  am  personally 
concerned. 

Joseph  Hill  (Pernet-Ducher, 
1904). — I  am  not  sure  whether 
the  raiser  sent  this  Rose  out  with 
the  prefix  Monsieur  or  not.  If 
he  did,  and  I  am  inclined  to 
think  it  was  so,  may  I  be  per- 
mitted to  suggest  he  made  a  mis- 
take in  so  doing,  as  Joseph  Hill 
is  an  American  and  a  member  of 
the  firm  that  has  given  us  Rich- 
mond, Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill  and 
General  McArthur,  to  mention  only  a  few  of 
the  Roses  of  their  introduction,  and,  there- 
fore. Monsieur,  although  correct  enough  in 
France,  is  neither  necessary  nor  correct  here. 
Be  all  this  as  it  may,  Joseph  Hill,  in  my  opinion, 
is  one  of  the  best  Continental  Roses  of  recent 
introduction.  A  good  bedder  and  a  useful  Rose 
for  the  exhibitor  ;  the  fine  deep  colour  of  its 
flowers  and  the  general  tout  ensemble  of  the 
plant,  with  its  deep  bronzy  foliage  and  good 
habit,  render  it  one  of  the  desirable  Roses. 

Joseph  Lowe  (Lowe,  1907). — This  Rose,  sent  out 
by  Messrs.  Mount,  is  synonymous  with  Lady 
Faire,  and  as  Lady  Paire  it  obtained  recognition 
from  the  National  Rose  Society.    ""  '    ' 


a  card  of  commendation.  I  therefore  will  make 
what  remarks  I  have  to  say  about  it  under  that 
name. 

Konigin  Carola  (Turke,  1904). — ^A  sport  or 
seedling,  undoubtedly,  of  Caroline  Testout  which 
Rose  it  resembles  in  colour,  except,  possibly,  it 
has  rather  a  more  silvery  edge  to  the  petal.  It 
is  a  beautiful  Rose,  of  very  fine  shape,  that  comes 
rather  more  to  the  much-desired  point  than 
Caroline  Testout,  and  in  that  respect  it  may  be 
said  to  be  an  advance  on  that  variety.  The 
flowers,  especially  the  older  blooms,  develop  a 
split — that  is,  most  of  them  do — but  it  will  be  a 
very  useful  variety  to  the  exhibitor,  although  I 


They  owe  their  distinctness  to  their  scheme  of 
colour,  which  reverses  the  usual  lines,  namely, 
the  deeper  colour  on  the  inside  of  the  petal  and 
the  lighter  colour  outside.  Lady  Alice  Stanley, 
on  the  contrary,  has  the  deeper  colour  on  the 
outside  of  the  petal  and  the  lighter  colour  inside, 
and  in  this  respect  resembles  Grand  Duo  Adolph 
de  Luxembourg,  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill  and  the  old 
Marquise  de  Vivens.  The  actual  colouring  is 
deep  coral  or  rose  pink  outside,  inside  silvery  pink 
flesh,  really  a  pale  flesh,  but  the  outside  colour 
shows  through.  I  have  exhibited  it  on  more  than 
one  occasion  this  year ;  the  flowers  generally 
come  good  and  it  does  not  seem  to  develop  a 


should  not  advise  him  to  show  a  Caroline  Testout    split,  that  bete  noire  of  exhibitors.      It  is  a  good 

grower,  freer  from  mildew  than 
the  majority  of  Irish  Roses,  and, 
I  think,  a  Rose  that  has  oome 
to  stay.  It  was  awarded  the  gold 
medal  of  the  National  Rose 
Society  at  the  autumn  show  last 
year.  There  was  a  very  fine  box 
of  it  exhibited  at  Luton  that 
deserved  to  have  been  in  the  prize 
money  in  a  very  strong  class  lor 
the  best  twelve  pink  Roses,  and 
they  were  fighting  against  Dean 
Hole,  Lady  Ashtown  and  Mrs. 
Edward  Mawley  and  were  not 
disgraced,  so  it  cannot  be  other- 
wise than  useful  to  the  exhibitor. 
It  is  one  of  the  easily  grown 
Roses,  which  is  another  point  in 
its  favour.  It  is  a  pleasure  to 
write  "Strongly  recommended." 

Lady  Calmovth  (Guillot,  190H). 
I  cannot  say  the  same  for  this 
Rose,  which  I  am  discarding  from 
my  garden.  The  season,  I  know, 
has  been  against  it  and  the  flowers 
have  refused  to  open,  but  at  its 
best  I  do  not  think  it  is  wanted. 
In  colour  nearly  white,  with  just 
a  suggestion  of  pink,  the  Rose  is 
large,  full  of  petals,  and  a  robust 
grower  rather  than  vigorous. 
Nothing  but  an  exhibitor's  Rose, 
and  not  often  that.  Is  it  worth 
keeping  ?  is  the  question  I  asked 
myself,  and  the  answer  is  written 
above. 

Lady  Sossmore  (Alex.  Dickson 
and  Sons,  1906).— Raised  by  Dr. 
Campbell  Hall  of  Monaghan, 
this  Rose  is  improving  with  age, 
and  I  have  seen  more  than  one 
fine  plant  of  it.  It  is  an  excel- 
lent bedding  Rose  of  dwarf 
growth,  colour  not  unlike  Hugh 
Dickson,  but  with  a  little  more 
claret  in  it,  that  one  could  plant 
where  the  latter  Rose  would 
be  out  of  place  by  reason  of 
its  growth.  The  flowers  are  of 
good  size  for  a  bedding  Rose 
and  open  freely.  A  far  more 
useful  Rose  than  Etoile  de  Prance, 
and  one  that  will  be  grown  long 
after  that  Rose  is  forgotten. 
Purley.  H.  E.  Moltneux. 

( To  be  continwA. ) 


BRBMURUS  ROBUSTUS  ELWESlANtTS   IN   MR.    BOWIES  S  GARDEN. 


It  was  awarded 


in  the  same  box,  as  he  will  be  courting  trouble 
in  the  shape  of  disqualification  for  duplicates, 
as  the  points  of  difference  are  very  slight.  It, 
however,  does  come  more  pointed  than  Caroline 
Testout,  and  therefore  should  be  very  useful  to 
the  exhibitor.  It  is  also  an  excellent  garden 
Rose.  Altogether  it  is  a  Rose  I  can  recommend 
to  anyone. 

Lady  Alice  Stanley  (S.  McGredy  and  Son, 
1909). — This  is  one  of  the  new  Portadown  Roses 
that  will  add  to  the  reputation  already  gained 
by  Countess  of  Goeford  and  other  Roses.  I  have 
been  much  pleased  with  its  behaviour  in  my 
garden  here  this  year.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  good 
Rose.      The  flowers  are  very  large  and  bright. 


HYBRID    TEA   ROSE    CLAUDIUS. 

This  is  a  hybrid  of  much  beauty,  and  one 
of  its  good  qualities  is  fragrance,  which  is 
the  more  welcome  when  so  many  sorts  are 
without  it.  Claudius  is  a  hybrid  that  should 
be  a  Rose  for  the  summer  and  autumn,  as 
the  award  of  merit  of  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society  was  given  to  it  on  October  12 
last,  when  the  flowers  were  fresh  and  the 
rose  colour  undimmed.  We  saw  it  also 
earlier  in  the  year.  As  will  be  seen  by  the 
illustration  on  page  542,  the  blooms  are  full  and 
the  petals  rather  broad.  It  was  shown  by 
Messrs.  B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons  of  Colchester. 


644 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  6,  1909, 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN.— Tulips  may  be 
planted  during  the  present  week  if 
the  whole  of  the  stock  is  not  already 
put  in.  In  a  medium  heavy  loam  and 
in  sandy  soil  the  bulbs  do  remarkably 
well  if  a  small  quantity  of  coarse  sand 
be  sprinkled  around  each  bulb  :  but  where  clayey 
soil  obtains  it  would  be  wise  on  the  part  of  the 


I. — BUSH  ROSE,  SHOWING  HOW  THE  BOOTS 
SHOULD  BE  SPREAD  OUT  PREVIOUS  TO 
PLANTING.  THE  ARROW  INDICATES  THE 
,1  UNCTION  OF  STOCK  AND  SCION,  TO  WHICH 
DEPTH    THE    BUSH    SHOULD    BE    PLANTED. 

cultivator  if  he  added  sand  or  some  gritty 
material  to  the  whole  of  the  soil  when  digging 
and  preparing  the  latter  for  the  bulbs.  The 
fading  stems  and  leaves  of  Hollyhocks  must 
now  be  removed,  but  the  sound  leaves — those 
that  are  still  green — should  not  be  out  off.  These 
plants  are  quite  hardy,  and  lifting  and  storing 
the  roots  in  frames  only  weakens  them.  All 
rubbish  found  near  the  plants  must  be  taken 
away  and  a  few  ashes  placed  close  up  to  the 
collars  of  the  plants  as  a  protection  against  slugs 
and  frosts  during  the  winter ;  this  is  all  that 
need  be  done.  A  final  cleaning  of  the  herbaceous 
borders  must  now  be  given,  final  only  as  regards 
the  cutting  down  of  the  faded  flower  stems  and 
leaves  of  the  summer-flowering  subjects  ;  hoeing 
and  soil  cleaning  will  be  necessary  frequently 
through  the  winter  months.  Pentstemon  cuttings 
in  cool  frames  and  under  cloches  must  be  ex- 
amined, and  where  they  have  been  lifted  by  earth- 
worms make  them  firm  in  the  soil  again  ;  also 
remove  decaying  leaves  and  any  cuttings  that  have 
rotted  off.  The  surface  soil  only  may  be  lightly 
loosened  with  the  aid  of  a  small  pointed  stick. 

Vegttahle  Garden. — Autumn  Giant  and  other 
Cauliflowers   which    are    now   developing   their 


flowersor  heads  should  be  closely  watched  and  pro- 
tected from  early  frosts  by  the  following  method, 
namely,  take  out  a  large  spadeful  of  soil  close  to 
the  roots  on  the  north  side  of  the  plant,  press 
down  the  plant  towards  the  north,  and  then 
place  the  spadeful  of  soil  on  the  stem  and  roots 
on  the  south  side.  Thus  the  sun  will  not  reach 
the  heads,  and  they  will  remain  white  and  pure 
for  many  days.  Only  the  most  forward  specimens 
must  be  treated  in  this  way.  Put  on  fresh 
lining  material  to  frames  and  hot-beds  in  which 
Cucumbers  are  being  grown  with  the  aid  of  hot- 
water  pipes,  as  the  heating  material  will  prove 
economical  as  regards  fuel.  Preparations  for 
forcing  Rhubarb  and  Seakale  must  now  be  made ; 
the  roots  may  be  covered  with  pots  or  boxes  and 
surrounded  by  littery  manure  and  leaves,  or 
lifted  and  forced  in  heated  sheds  or  under  the 
stages  in  glass  structures.  Jerusalem  Artichokes 
must  now  be  lifted,  graded  and  stored  in  frost- 
proof sheds,  and  then  have  the  soil  deeply 
trenched  forthwith.  Heavy  soils  which  are 
intended  to  be  cropped  with  Potatoes  next 
spring  should  be  manured  now  with  rich,  well- 
rotted  manure  ;  but  light  or  sandy  soils  must  not 
be  manured  before  next  spring. 

Fruit  Garden. — In  low-lying  districts  the 
trunks  and  branches  of  fruit  trees,  including  the 
Currant  and  the  Gooseberry,  get  badly  covered 
with  lichen,  which,  in  turn,  affords  a  special 
hiding-place  for  insects.  The  present  is  a 
good  time  for  dressing  such  trees  with  the 
various  compounds  advertised  and  sold  by 
nurserymen  for  the  purpose.  All  such 
dressings  must  be  applied  according  to  the 
instructions  given  with  the  compounds,  bat 
I  would  strongly  advise  amateurs  to  be 
extra  careful  and  not  touch  any  buds  with 
the  liquid.  If  there  are  any  late  Apples 
still  growing  on  the  trees,  they  must  be 
gathered  the  first  opportunity  when  the 
trees  are  dry.  Currant  and  Gooseberry 
bushes  must  also  be  pruned  now  ;  the  new 
growth  will  be  stronger  than  would  be  the 
case  if  the  pruning  is  left  until  the  spring. 

Greenhouse  and  Frames. — It  is  not  advis- 
able to  maintain  a  set  temperature  in  the 
greenhouse  at  this  season.  Aim  to  keep 
out  excessive  moisture  and  frost.  In  the 
daytime,  independent  of  sun-heat,  let  the 
temperature  range  from  .ill"  to  bO"  ;  at 
night  from  50°  to  5.)°.  During  severe  frost 
a  drop  of  .T  may  be  allowed.  The  watering 
of  Azaleas  in  greenhouses  and  frames  is  u 
very  important  matter.  Never  allow  the 
soil  in  the  pots  to  get  dry.  Fill  up  the  pots 
each  time  water  is  given.  Camellias  in  pots 
must  be  watered  with  equal  care.  Sponge 
the  leaves  of  the  latter  and  remove  every 
decaying  leaf  from  Cinerarias,  Primulas  and 
Calceolarias.  Place  Bouvardias  in  the 
warmest  part  of  the  greenhouse.  Weak 
doses  of  manure-water  will  be  beneficial  for 
these  plants  now.  B. 


will  do  equally  well  planted  at  either  time  ; 
but,  generally  speaking,  autumn  planting  is 
to  be  preferred.  Specialists  in  the  cultivation 
of  the  Rose  are  very  strong  in  their  opinion  that 
Roses  should  be  planted  any  time  between 
the  end  of  October  and  the  end  of  November, 
early  planting,  they  contend,  invariably  yielding 
better  results  in  every  way.  If  planted  in  the 
autumn,  the  ground  is  warm  and  root-action 
begins  at  once,  and  the  roots  get  hold  of  the  soil 
and  the  Roses  are  better  able  to  withstand 
severe  winter  weather  in  consequence.  When 
planted  late  in  the  year,  say,  in  December,  the 
ground  is  cold  and  no  root-growth  is  made,  and 
in  the  event  of  severe  weather  ensuing  there  is  a 
great  chance  of  the  plants  dying.  Roses  planted 
in  the  spring  soon  become  established  ;  Nature 
then  awaking  to  new  life  and  energy,  top  and 
root  growth  begin  almost  simultaneously.  Spring 
planting  should  be  done  early,  however,  and 
when  the  soil  is  in  a  suitable  condition  and  free 
from  frost  it  may  begin  in  late  February  and 
continue  throughout  March.  Planting  should 
not  be  done  when  the  ground  is  wet  and  pasty. 

Ground  intended  for  Rose-growing  should  be 
deeply  dug  and  heavily  manured  ;  in  fact,  those 
who  wish  the  best  success  to  attend  their  efforts 
would  be  well  advised  to  trench  the  ground 
quite  two  spades  deep,  adding  to  the  bottom 
spit  a  heavy  dressing  of  partially  decayed 
manure.      Soil  of  a   clayey   nature   is  best  for 


HOW    TO    PLANT    ROSES. 

Inexperienced  amateur  gardeners  fre- 
quently ask  for  information  about  planting 
Roses,  and  this  request  is  more  often  made  at  this 
season  than  at  any  other  time.  The  spring  is  a 
season  in  which  many  novices  begin  operations  in 
regard  to  planting  their  newly  purchased  Roses, 
and  many  inexperienced  growers  are  at  a  loss 
to  understand  why  the  plants  have  not  done 
well  or  come  up  to  expectations.  Planting  may 
be  done  either  in  the  autumn  or  spring,  and  in 
certain  conditions  or  circumstances  the   Roses 


!. — THE  SAME  BUSH  R08B  PBOPBELY  PLANTED. 

Roses,  while  that  of  a  gravelly  or  sandy  kind  is, 
without  a  doubt,  the  worst.  The  aiji  of  the 
grower  should  be  to  lighten  the  over-heavy  soil 
and  render  more  adhesive  the  light  soil.  Cow- 
manure  added  freely  to  the  last-mentioned  soil 
and  placed  at  a  depth  of  about  2  feet,  and 
also  incorporating  well-rotted  cow-manure  to 
the  soil  as  it  is  dug  over,  will  render  this  quite 
fertile  and  far  more  satisfactory  for  Roses. 


November  6,  1909.1 


THE    GARDEN. 


545 


Readers  who 
are  beginners 
should  remem- 
ber that  the 
bushes  or  stan- 
dards  may 
reach  them 
after  having 
travelled  a 
considerable 
distance,  in 
consequence  of 
which  they  will 
need  to  be 
dealt  with 
promptly.  Un- 
pack them 
without  delay 
and  immerse 
the  roots  in  a 
vessel  of  water, 
allowing  them 
to  remain  in 
this  condition 
for  an  hour  or 
two.  Should 
the  ground  be 
too  wet  to 
plant  forth- 
with, the  Roses 
must  be  laid 
in  a  shallow 
trench  and  the 
roots  covered 
with  soil  tempo- 
rarily. Should 
the  weather  be 
warm  and 
sunny  when 
the  plants 
arrive,  and  the 
actual  planting 
be  inconvenient 
for  a  time,  after 
laying  in  the 
plants  shade 
them  until  they 
can  be  planted. 
First  of  all, 
make  a  rough 
plan  of  how  the 
Roses  are  to  be 
planted,  and 
insert  labels 
with  the  names 
of  the  varieties  written  thereon  in  their  re- 
spective positions.  Dwarf  Roses  should  be 
planted  18  inches  to  2  feet  apart,  and  standard 
and  half-standards  about  2  feet  6  inches  asunder. 
To  teach  the  beginner  how  to  plant  his  dwarf 
Roses  I  have  lifted  a  specimen  bush,  and  in 
Fig.  1  have  indicated  to  what  depth  Roses  of 
this  character  should  be  planted.  Dwarf  Roses 
should  be  planted  deep  enough  to  cover  the 
junction  between  the  stock  and  the  scion. 
Fig.  2  represents  the  same  dwarf  Rose  planted 
in  position.  Here  it  will  be  observed  the 
junction  of  stock  and  scion  is  just  embedded  in 
che  soil.  See  that  the  holes  are  sufficiently  wide 
to  spread  out  the  roots  to  their  full  length. 
Jagged  roots  should  be  cut  so  that  the  cut  part 
rests  on  the  soil,  as  from  this  part  roots  will  be 
made.  It  is  an  excellent  plan  when  planting 
Roses  to  have  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sifted  soil 
to  place  round  about  the  roots.  The  finer 
particles  of  soil  work  in  so  well  among  the  roots 
that  planting  is  more  satisfactorily  done  when 
this  rule  is  observed.  About  a  peek  of  sifted 
soil  should  be  used  to  each  Rose,  and  that  the 
work  should  be  done  thoroughly  and  well  a 
second  person  should  hold  the  plant  in  position, 
slightly  shaking  the  tree  to  settle  the  soil  as  the 
first  person  fills  in. 

In  Fig.  3  is  shown  a  hole  taken  out  for  planting 
a  standard  Rose.  The  hole  is  about  6  inches 
deep,  and  an  inspection  of  the  roots  will  show 
how  they  are  spread  out.    Standard  Roses  should 


3.— HOLE  TAKEN  OUT  0  INCHES  DEEP 
FOR  PLANTING  A  STANEAKD 
ROSE.  FIRST  INSERT  A  STAKE 
IN  POSITION  AND  SECURE  THE 
TREE  TO  IT  BEFORE  PLANTINS. 
SPREAD  OUT  THE  ROOTS  AS 
SHOWN   IN  THIS  ILLUSTRATION. 


have  a  stake  placed  in  the  hole  in  position  prior 
to  the  planting,  to  which  the  tree  should  be 
securely  tied.  The  sifted  compost  should  be 
worked  among  the  roots  as  was  done  with  the 
dwarf  Roses,  and  after  filling  in  the  garden  soil 
and  treading  this  te  make  it  firm,  the  surface 
soil  should  be  finished  off  neatly,  as  represented 
in  Fig.  4.  Here  we  have  the  tree  satisfactorily 
planted  with  the  stake  in  position  and  securely 
tied.  The  trees  should  be  watered  in  as  the  work 
proceeds,  and  finally  a  covering  of  partially 
rotted  manure  or  litter  of  some  description 
should  be  placed  on  the  surface  soil  round  about 
the  base  of  the  tree.  This  mulching  assists  to 
keep  the  soil  moist.  D.  B.  C. 

STOKING    DAHLIA    ROOTS. 

Amateur  growers  of  Dahlias  are  often  troubled  in 
safely  wintering  them.  Plants  are  yet  (end  of 
October)  blooming  profusely,  and  no  one  seems 
anxious  to  cut  them  down.  The  abundant  rains 
have  made  the  plants  rather  sappy  and,  indeed, 
unusually  luxuriant,  while  the  absence  of  October 
frosts  so  far  allows  them  a  long,  free  existence. 
But  when  a  frost  does  come,  no  doubt  the  plants 
will  suffer  greatly  because  so  sappy  ;  hence  the 
moment  so  injured  they  should  be  cut  down  to 
within  R  inches  of  the  soil,  and  if  the  weather 
is  not  then  dry  it  is  best  to  put  a  mound  of  soil 
over  each  stem.  But  when  there  is  a  dry  day 
have  the  roots  lifted  and,  having  shaken  out  the 
soil,  let  them  lie  on  their  sides  both  to  dry  and  to 
drain  any  moisture  which  may  have  accumulated 
in  the  hollow  stems.  If  the  floor  of  a  cellar  or 
outhouse  be  available,  set  them  close  together  on 
that,  cover  all  the  tubers  with  fine  dry  ashes  or 
soil,  and  only  further  protect  them  with  litter 
when  frosts  are  severe.  If  a  floor  cannot  be  had, 
then  set  the  roots  close  together  in  stout  shallow 
boxes,  and  fill  in  round  them  with  some  fine  dry 
soil.  A.  D. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


Frames. — A  garden  frame  does  not  take  up  much 
room,  but  it  is  one.  of  the  most  useful  of  all 
garden  appliances.  Amateurs  who  now  possess 
one  know  well  how  valuable  it  is,  and  those 
who  do  not  possess  a  frame  realise  fully  the 
want  of  it,  especially  where  there  are  a  lot  of 
favourite  plants  to  be  kept  through  the  winter 
months.  Many  kinds  are  regarded  as  quite 
hardy  and  are  left  exposed  to  the  elements  ;  but, 
although  they  survive,  they  are  often  sadly 
crippled.  Now,  if  the  plants  were  stored  in  a 
cool  frame  which  would  afford  them  a  lot  of 
protection  in  the  bad  weather,  much  finer 
specimens  would  be  available  for  use  during  the 
following  year.  Then  there  are  various  kinds  of 
bulbs  that  may  be  grown  in  the  frame  up  to  a 
certain  stage  of  development,  after  which  the 
pots  containing  them  may  be  transferred  to  the 
dwelling-room  windows  or  the  glass  entrance- 
porch.  I  know  of  one  amateur  who  had  a  most 
attractive  glass  porch  throughout  the  year.  All 
his  plants  had  to  be  raised  under  cool  conditions, 
but  he  selected  the  most  suitable  for  the  purpose. 
Disappointment  will  surely  follow  any  attempt 
to  grow  very  tender  subjects  in  cold  frames  in 
the  winter-time.  Even  it  partial  successes  were 
attained  there  would  not  be  as  much  pleasure 
derived  from  them  as  from  successes  gained  by 
growing  hardier  subjects.  Roman  Hyacinths  do 
not  require  a  lot  of  heat,  and  when  the  early 
bulbs  are  taken  from  the  ashes  under  which 
they  have  been  plunged,  they  will  do  remarkably 
well  in  a  cool  frame  until  the  flower-spikes  are 
well  developed.  Narcissus  bulbs  may  be  treated 
in  the  same  way ;  Tulips  and  named  Hyacinths 
may  also  be  started  in  the  frame,  but  removed  to 
the  windows  in  the  house  earlier  than  the  Roman 
Hyacinths  and  Narcissus.  Spiraea  and  Dielytra 
roots  should  be  lifted  now  and  potted  in  a  light 
compost,  then  stored  in  the  frame.  So  treated 
they  will    commence   to    grow   about  a  month 


before  those  clumps  left  in  the  op«n  border,  and 
so  considerably  prolong  the  floral  display  in  this 
direction.  Auriculas,  Calceolarias  and  even  the 
popular  Marguerite  Daisies  may  all  be  wintered 
in  the  cool  frame,  provided  some  mats  or  other 
suitable  material  be  given  for  protection 
against  severe  frosts. 

Neglected  Gardens. — At  no  season  of  the 
year  are  gardens  more  neglected  than  in  the 
autumn.  I  visited  an  amateur  the  other  day, 
and  before  showing  me  round  his  beautiful 
garden — in  a  town — apologised  for  its  wild, 
neglected  state.  I  know  that  there  is  a  constant 
dropping  of  leaves  and  other  matter  from  shrubs 
and  trees  at  this  season,  and  that  it  is  very 
difficult  to  maintain  a  tidy,  neat  appear- 
ance ;  but  a  little  management  will  easily  over- 
come the  difficulty.  I  can  thoroughly  enjoy  a 
ramble  round  a  garden  in  the  autumn-time,  even 
when  it  does  not  contain  a  single  blossom.  The 
lovely  tints  in  the  leaves  and  the  bark  of  the 
stems  have  a  beauty  all  their  own.  Further- 
more, there  are  the  strong  crowns  of  many  kinds 
of  herbaceous  plants  that,  though  dormant  now, 
give  such  promise  of  future  beauty  in  the  flowers 
they  produce.  Truly  there  is  never  any  lack  of 
interest  in  the  features  of  the  garden  all  the  year 
round. 

Division  Fences. — In  many  gardens  in  towns 
there  is  a  division  fence  shutting  out  from  view 
the  vegetable  or  fruit 
quarter.  Sometimes 
these  fences  are  con- 
structed so  as  to  be 
highly  ornamental  in 
an  artistic  way.  One 
of  the  worst  kinds 
of  division  hedges  is 
the  Privet  hedge. 
In  itself  it  is  very 
beautiful,  but  the 
roots  of  the  plants 
permeate  the  soil  in 
the  borders  on  both 
sides  to  such  a  large 
extent,  and  so  rob 
the  plants  in  the 
beds  of  such  a  great 
amount  of  moisture 
and  nourishment, 
that  it  is  unwise  to 
plant  Privet.  One  of 
the  most  beautiful 
of  division  fences  is 
secured  by  con- 
structing a  rustic 
screen,  and  then 
planting  Roses  and 
other  suitable  climb- 
ing plants  so  that 
their  branches  can 
be  trained  over  the 
erection.  Here  we 
have  at  once  a  screen 
that  will  afford  a 
great  amount  of 
pleasure  and  interest 
for  the  owner.  In 
putting  up  such 
erections  avoid 
extreme  lightness. 
Very  small  upright 
posts  and  weakly 
cross  pieces  are  un- 
suitable.  Such 
screens  look  well  for 
about  two  years ; 
then  they  commence 
to  decay  just  when 
the  plants  are  nicely 
covering  them,  and 
so  a  lot  of  trouble  is 
entailed  in  doing 
the  necessary  re- 
pairs, as  often  the 
plants  are  injured  in 
the  process.   Avon, 


-THE  SAME  STANDARD  ROSE 
AS  SHOWN  IN  FIG.  3 
rlRMLV  PLANTED  AND 
STAKED  AND  SECURELY 
TIED.  TO  COMPLETE  THE 
PLANTING  PLACE  A 
LAYER  OP  LITTERY 
MANURE  ON  THE  SUR- 
FACE OF  THE  SOIL. 


546 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[November  6,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF    THE 
WEEK. 

FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruit    Department. 

PEACH  TREES  UNDER  GLASS.— 
Trees  intended  to  be  started  next 
month  should  now  be  pruned  and 
dressed  and  the  house  put  in  order 
in  readiness  to  be  closed  when  the 
time  arrives.  If  the  trees  are  fairly 
free  from  red  spider  and  other  insects,  less 
cleansing  will  be  neeessiry ;  but  where  scale  exists, 
after  the  trees  have  been  pruned  and  the  roof 
and  woodwork  thoroughly  washed  with  a  mixture 
of  soft  soap  or  soapsuds,  carefully  sponge  the 
young  wood  with  a  little  Gishurst  Compound, 
taking  care  not  to  use  this  too  strong,  or  it  will 
injure  the  buds,  which  at  this  season  are  in  a 
forward  state.  Scrub  well  the  old  wood  with  a 
much  stronger  solution,  to  which  add  a  handful 
of  sulphur.  Prune  carefully,  removing  pieces 
that  will  not  be  wanted  for  bearing  fruit,  a  good, 
fruitful  and  even-balanced  tree  being  the  aim. 
After  the  trees  have  been  thoroughly  cleansed, 
secure  the  main  branches  to  the  trellis  at  equal 
distances  ;  then  fill  in  with  the  young  shoots 
and  wood,  and  leave  ample  room  for  the  wood  to 
swell  in  the  trees.  After  finishing  the  trees, 
attention  should  be  given  to  the  roots  and 
border.  I  usually  remove  2  inches  of  the  surface 
and  then  give  the  roots  a  good  soaking  with 
water  overnight,  if  required,  following  this  with 
a  top-dressing  of  suitable  soil  containing  ample 
lime  and  wood-ashes,  after  which  no  further 
watering  will  be  required  for  some  time. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
Gncumhera. — With  less  sunshine  and  darker 
days  the  growths  are  apt  to  become  weak.  Take 
care  not  to  overcrowd  with  wood  and  foliage, 
stop  the  shoots  when  required  for  the  production 
of  more  fruits,  and  do  not  at  any  time  allow  the 
Cucumbers  to  hang  on  the  plants  after  they  are 
large  enough  to  cut.  Keep  the  foliage  clean  and 
free  from  red  spider,  syringing  on  favourable 
occasions  with  tepid  water.  Repeat  the  top- 
dressing  at  intervals,  using  a  rather  sandy  loam 
with  a  mixture  of  leaf-mould,  or  sweet,  decayed 
Mushroom  manure,  and  at  the  same  temperature 
as  the  house,  allowing  70°  by  night,  excepting  in 
very  severe  weather,  when  the  glass  may  be 
allowed  to  fall  to  65°,  and  raising  the  tempera- 
ture 10°  by  day  when  there  is  sun. 

Tomatoes. — To  obtain  strong,  healthy  plants 
for  next  year's  early  supply,  seed  of  a  good,  use- 
ful, free-cropping  variety  may  now  be  sown. 
Sow  the  seed  in  well-drained  4J-inch  pots,  or 
small  pans,  and  do  not  overwater.  As  soon  as 
the  plants  are  nicely  up  keep  them  in  a  warm 
position  near  the  glass.  Prick  them  ofif  early, 
and  when  large  enough  pot  them  singly  in 
3-inch  pots,  using  a  light  sandy  soil,  and  water 
very  sparingly  for  some  time. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 
Shrubs  for  Forcing  which  have  been  plunged 
in  coal-ashes  in  the  reserve  ground  will  need 
attention  ;  those  which  are  well  studded  with 
flower-buds  and  deserving  of  room,  to  be  forced, 
should  be  picked  out  and  placed  together  for 
convenience  until  they  are  required  for  placing 
in  warmth.  Ghent  Azaleas  are  extremely  useful 
for  supplying  an  abundance  of  bloom  at  a  time 
when  flowers  are  none  too  plentiful. 

Malmaison    Carnations    which    were    layered 
rather  late  in  frames  will  now  be  growing  freely  ; 
let  them  be  neatly  severed  from  the  parent  and 
pot  them  singly  in  pots  of  a  suitable  size,  using 
a  sweet,  sandy  loam  and  ample  grit.     Stand  the 
pots  in  a  light  house  near  the  glass  or  in  frames, 
being  careful  with  ventilation  and  watering. 
H.  Mabkham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Oardene,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH  AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Hardv  Fruit  Department. 
Planting. — Where  possible  this  should  be  done 
in  November,  while  the  soil  retains  some  of  the 
summer's  warmth.  Should  the  ground  be 
unready  for  planting  before  winter,  the  trees  are 
better  ordered,  and  when  received  be  laid  in 
lines  in  such  a  manner  that  litter  may  be  placed 
over  the  roots  if  very  severe  frost  intervenes.  It 
is  somewhat  difficult  to  select  varieties  of  fruits 
that  will  prove  satisfactory  in  greatly  diverse 
soils  and  situations,  but  the  following  list  will  be 
found  generally  satisfactory. 

Dessert  Apples. — Beauty  of  Bath,  Devonshire 
Quarrenden,  Worcester  Pearmain,  James  Grieve, 
King  of  Pippins,  Adam's  Pearmain,  Mannington 
Pearmain,  AUington  Pippin,  Fearn's  Pippin  and 
Scarlet  Nonpareil. 

Culinary  Apples.  —  Keswick  Codlin,  Lord 
Suifield,  Stirling  Castle,  The  Queen,  Loddington, 
Warner's  King,  Duchess  of  Oldenburg,  Lane's 
Prince  Albert,  Bramley's  Seedling  and  Newton 
Wonder.  These  succeed  in  any  form  of  training, 
and  for  gardens  proper  are  best  grafted  upon  the 
English  Paradise  stock,  with  the  exception 
perhaps  of  Stirling  Castle  and  Duchess  of  Olden- 
burg, which  generally  bear  so  freely  that  the 
greater  vigour  of  the  Crab  stock  is  more  suitable. 

Plums. — Good  dessert  varieties  are  Lawson's 
Golden  Gage,  OuUin's  Gage,  Denniston's  Superb, 
Jefferson,  Kirke's  and  Coe's  Golden  Drop.  To 
these  might  be  added  Victoria,  which  is  the  best 
all-round  Plum  in  cultivation.  For  culinary  use 
The  Czar,  Early  Prolific,  Victoria,  Pond's  Seed- 
ling, Belgian  Purple,  Monarch,  and  Ickworth 
Imperatrioe  for  very  late  use.  The  Czar,  Early 
Prolific  and  Victoria  succeed  well  in  bush  or 
standard  form  ;  but  the  others  named  require  the 
protection  of  a  wall. 

Pears. — Beurr^  Giffard,  Jargonelle,  Williams' 
Bon  Chretien,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  Souvenir 
du  Congres,  Marguerite  Marillat,  Beurrt'  Diel 
Marie  Louise,  Doyenn^  du  Cornice,  Fondante  de 
Thirriot,  Winter  Nelis  and  Easter  Beurrt  are 
reliable  and  provide  fruit  for  several  months. 
The  first  four  named,  together  with  Hessle, 
succeed  in  good  situations  in  bush,  pyramid  or 
standard  forms ;  but  all  the  others  must  be 
grown  as  espaliers  or  against  walls  in  the  North. 

Oooseberries. — Whitesmith,  Hedgehog,  Langley 
Gage,  Langley  Beauty,  Whinham's  Industry  and 
Warrington  are  all  good  for  general  use ;  the 
last-named,  all  points  considered,  is  probably  the 
best  in  cultivation. 

Currants. — Raby  Castle  (red).  White  Ver- 
sailles, Carter's  Champion  and  Boskoop  Giant 
(black)  are  the  best  of  several  kinds  that  closely 
resemble  each  other.  The  last  has  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  proof  against  the  big-bud  trouble. 

Raspberries.  —  For  crop  and  size  of  fruit 
Superlative  is  well  ahead,  Baumforth's  Seedling, 
Carter's  Prolific  and  Yellow  Antwerp  being 
distinct  and  good  among  older  sorts.  The 
Loganberry,  closely  allied  to  these,  should  be 
given  a  place  wherever  its  rambling  growths  can 
be  accommodated. 

Flower  Garden. 

Bedding  Plants. — As  the  beds  and  borders  are 
cleared  of  summer  occupants,  manuring  and 
digging  may  follow  and  the  planting  of 
Myosotis,  Wallflowers,  Primroses,  Daisies  and 
Violas  be  carried  out.  Bulbs  in  considerable 
variety  are  often  used  with  good  effect  when  in 
bloom,  and  the  sooner  these  are  planted  the 
better  they  will  be. 

Shrubs. — Many  varieties  of  dwarf  evergreen 
and  variegated  plants  are  excellent  for  toning 
down  an  excess  of  colour  in  the  spring  garden. 
Cupressus  in  variety,  Cryptomeria  elegans  nana, 
Retinosporrt  plumosa,  R.  albo-picta,  R.  argentea, 
R.  aurea  Juniperus  communis  compressa,  J. 
chinensis  aurea  and  Abies  excelsa  pumila  are  all 
suitable.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn.) 
Oalloviay  Bouse,  Oarliesion,  Wigtownshire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Cypripedium  Elatior  Rex. — This  is  a  beautiful 
Cypripedium,  with  the  dorsal  sepal  white,  tinged 
and  blotched  with  purple,  while  the  pouch  and 
petals  are  a  brownish  tint.  It  was  raised  from 
C.  leeanum  and  C.  Baron  Schra>der,  and  the 
progeny  has  retained  the  good  shape  of  the 
former  and  inherited  to  a  great  extent  the  fine 
markings  of  the  latter  parent.  It  is  interesting 
to  note  that  five  species,  viz. ,  spioerianum,  insigne, 
villosum,  barbatum  and  fairieanum,  are  repre- 
sented in  this  pretty  plant.  Shown  by  Mbssl-s. 
J.  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited.     Award  of  merit. 

Cypripedium  Beacon  magnicum. — This  is  a  very 
beautiful  variety,  the  dorsal  sepal  being  very 
clear  and  distinct.  The  base  is  pale  green  heavily 
dotted  with  circular  brown  dots,  a  broad  band  of 
pure  white  forming  the  margin.  The  petals  and 
labellum  much  resemble  those  of  a  pale-coloured 
insigne.  Shown  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford, 
C.I.E.,C.V.O.,  Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucester. 
Award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  Mrs.  R.  Lnxjord.—h.  very 
handsome  exhibition  variety  of  a  pleasing  bronze 
shade  that  is  destined,  we  think,  for  much 
popularity.  The  habit  is  dwarf  and  handsome, 
and  flower -heads  are  freely  produced. 

Chrysanthemum  Altrincham  Yellow. — A  very 
pleasing  single-flowered  variety  of  a  clear  butter 
yellow  hue.  The  blossoms  are  of  large  size  and 
produced  in  considerable  profusion.  These  two 
Chrysanthemums  were  exhibited  by  Messrs.  W. 
Wells  and  Co. ,  Merstham,  and  each  received  an 
award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  Mrs.  Thornton. — A  large- 
flowered  Japanese  of  the  drooping  type,  the 
colour  creamy  white,  the  older  florets  passing  oflf 
to  a  pink  shade.  The  flower-heads  are  of  huge 
proportions  and  the  florets  of  great  length. 
Shown  by  Mr.  H.  Perkins,  Henley-on-Thames. 
Award  of  merit. 

Aster  hybrida  Bianca.  —  A  white-flowered 
variety  of  considerable  freedom,  the  horizontally 
disposed  branches  being  wreathed  with  blossoms. 
Shown  by  the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs,  Aldenham 
House,  Elstree  (gardener,  Mr.  E.  Beckett). 
Award  of  merit. 

Carnation  May  Day. — This,  so  far  as  we  re- 
member, is  the  first  of  the  true  salmon  pink 
shade,  so  characteristic  of  the  old  Miss  Joliffe, 
yet  sent  to  us  from  America,  and  we  believe  the 
variety  will  be  accorded  a  very  hearty  welcome 
on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  The  colour  is  of  a 
deeper  tone  than  the  old-time  favourite  and  more 
uniform  at  the  edges  of  the  petals.  Moreover, 
the  flower  is  of  good  form  and  excellent  petal 
substance,  and  if  not  of  the  largest  size,  has  the 
many  points  of  merit  which  render  such  flowers 
of  great  utility.  The  stems  are  good  and  the 
calyx  is  of  a  non-splitting  character.  Exhibited 
by  Messrs.  .J.  Peed,  Norwood ;  R.  H.  Bath, 
Limited,  Wisbech  ;  and  Stuart  Low  and  Co., 
Enfield.     Award  of  merit. 

Columnea  magnifica. — A  singularly  bright  and 
effective  greenhouse  flowering  plant  of  sub- 
shrubby  habit  belonging  to  the  Gesnerace*.  The 
exhibited  plant  was  about  li  feet  high,  bearing 
numbers  of  tubular  flowers  of  scarlet  orange  hue, 
which  pass  to  a  yellowish  tone  in  the  interior  of 
the  corolla  tube.  The  ovate-acuminate  leaves 
are  somewhat  thick  to  the  touch  and  densely 
pubescent.  The  flowers  possess  the  merit  of 
lasting  for  some  weeks  in  perfection.  Exhibited 
by  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart. ,  Dorking.  Award 
of  merit. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  '26th  ult.,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE 


A  Curious  Sweet  William. 
Herewith  I  send  a  box  containing  one  stalk 
of  a  Sweet  William   plant,   which   must  be    a 


November  6,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


547 


curiosity,  resulting  from  the  present  abnormal 
season.  You  will  notice  that  in  the  centre  of 
the  truss  the  seeds  have  all  germinated  and 
present  the  appearance  of  a  bed  of  green  Cress, 
while  three  of  the  outer  florets  are  in  bloom  and 
others  in  bud.  I  out  it  this  morning  (October  21) 
from  a  clump  of  Sweet  Williams,  nearly  all 
similar  as  far  as  the  germination  of  the  seeds  in 
their  pods,  but  in  the  others  only  buds  unopened 
are  yet  to  be  seen.  I  feel  sure  you  will  be  in- 
terested in  this  curiosity.  You  will  notice  the 
stalk  is  perfectly  green,  and  the  leaves  on  it  are 
also  green,  which  is  in  itself,  I  think,  most 
unusual.  I  have  seen  seeds  on  dead  stalks 
germinate  on  various  plints,  but  never  on  a 
green  and  flourishing  stalk.  — Samuel  Lowe, 
Meadowbanlc,  Hadley  Wood,  Middlesex.  [A  most 
interesting  abnormal  development.  — Ed.] 


Blue  Primroses  ebom  Scotland. 
Dr.  McWatt  of  Morelands,  Duns,  N.B.,  sends 
us  a  very  beautiful  collection  of  Blue  Primroses 
and  Polyanthuses,  the  colour  of  these  being 
remarkably  good.  In  addition  to  the  blue 
flowers,  their  reddish  stems  are  also  most  attrac- 
tive, and  the  contribution  was  a  most  acceptable 
one  at  this  season.  Dr.  Me  Watt  also  included 
several  of  his  beautiful  Delphinium  seedlings,  to 
which  we  have  already  drawn  attention. 


Violets  Mrs.  J.  J.  Astor  and  Lady  Hume 
Campbell. 
Mr.  Lawless,  gardener  to  Sir  Walter  Smythe, 
Bart.,  Acton  Burnell,  Shrewsbury,  sends  perfect 
flowers  of  these  Violets.  Our  correspondent 
writes  :  "  The  plants  have  been  grown  on  quite 
open  ground  and  lifted  into  frames  for  the  winter. 
They  are  from  layers  taken  in  March,  and  the 
plants  measure  10  inches  to  1.5  inches  through  ; 
they  are  full  of  buds. " 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES   FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 

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FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Daffodils    In    moss    flbpe    (Agnes 

Eandolph). — The  complete  success  of  these 
bulbous  plants  in  moss  fibre  depends  upon  sound 
bulbs,  and  chiefly  a  sufficient  supply  of  moisture, 
with  light,  after  the  early  period  of  preparatory 
darkness  is  passed.  That  you  had  "very  fine' 
flowers  points  to  one  thing,  viz.,  that  the  bulbs 
were  of  good  quality ;  hence  all  else  turns 
upon  cultural  errors.  The  "weak,  floppy  and 
curly  foliage  with  yellow  edges  "  may  be  due  to 
too  great  a  degree  of  darkness  during  the  growing 
season,  and  to  too  much  or  too  little  moisture  at 
the  roots.  These  things  may  be  brought  about, 
also,  by  a  too  early  attempt  to  get  the  plants  into 
bloom,  and  the  variety,  Empress  White,  one  of 
the  best  of  the  bicolor  section  of  Daffodils  for 
general  use,  is  not  suited  for  early  work  when 
grown  in  fibre  indoors.  Doubtless  not  a  little  of 
your  non-success  is  due  to  bringing  in  the  bulbs 
too  early  into  the  sitting-room,  and  a  prolonged 
period  in  these  conditions  would  not  conduce  to 
the  best  results.  The  weak  stalks  point  very 
strongly  to  this.     The  same  bulbs  given  a  few 


weeks  in  a  darkened  frame,  or  even  a  cool  green- 
house, would  have  been  greatly  benefited  thereby 
because  of  the  moister  conditions  prevailing, 
while  the  dry,  arid  conditions  of  a  room,  and 
particularly  a  room  in  which  gas  was  used,  would 
militate  against  success.  We  think,  therefore, 
that  a  too  long  season  in  the  rooms  is  very 
largely  responsible  for  the  condition  to  which  we 
refer.  As  we  hope  to  deal  with  this  subject 
more  fully  in  an  article  in  a  coming  issue,  we 
refer  you  to  that  for  more  complete  details. 
Meanwhile  you  could  obtain  bulbs  and  plant 
them  in  readiness. 

Tpeatment    of    Pampas    Grasa 

afCeP  flowering  (Enquirer). — As  soon  as 
the  plumes  become  unsightly  cut  them  off;  then 
leave  the  plant  until  the  middle  or  end  of  March, 
at  which  time  as  many  as  possible  of  the  old 
leaves  may  be  cut  away.  It  the  ground  about 
the  stool  appears  very  dry,  give  a  good  watering, 
and  afterwards  a  good  top-dressing  of  cow- 
manure.  Whether  dry  or  not  a  good  top-dressing 
should  be  given.  If  you  wish  to  transplant  it, 
do  not  do  the  work  until  there  are  signs  of  active 
growth,  say,  mid- April.  To  increase  the  stock, 
cut  pieces  ofi'  the  parent  plant  in  April,  pot 
them  up,  and  place  them  in  a  warm  and  close 
greenhouse  until  rooted.  Do  not  be  tempted  to 
cut  shabby  leaves  oflf  during  winter,  neither 
must  you  attempt  transplanting  before  the  time 
mentioned. 

Diseased  Fansies  (7.  R.  F.).—The  plants  are 
attacked  Dy  the  fungus  Puccinia  violte.  Try  what  spraying 
with  a  rose  red  solution  of  potassium  permanganate  will 
do.  Kemove  and  destroy  with  fire  all  badly  diseased 
plants. 

EvepgrPeen  cpeepep  (E.  P.  />.).— For  the  purpose 
you  name  there  is  no  plant  of  such  quick  growth  as  the 
Ivy,  and  no  better  kind  than  that  known  as  dentata.  It 
is  a  handsome-leaved  kind  withal.  Most  climbers  of  free 
growth  are  deciduous. 

Tpeatment  of  Apum  Dpacunculus  (H.  C). 
Arum  Dracunculus  is  a  liardy  species  and  should  be 
planted  in  well-drained  loamy  soil  in  a  sunny  border.  If 
in  an  enclosed  space  the  unpleasant  odour  of  the  flower  is 
far  too  pronounced.  This  species  grows  about  3  feet  high, 
has  prettily  divided  leaves  and  a  brown  flower-spathe. 

Ampelopsis  leaves  (W.,  ,'Slifjlu-hl).^Tbe  leaves  of 
the  Ampelopsis  sent  showed  no  signs  of  disease  or  insects, 
and  the  shrivelling  appears  to  be  due  to  drought  or  starva- 
tion. It  is  impossible  to  say  definitely  without  knowing 
more  the  conditions  under  which  the  plant  is  growing.  A 
good  mulching  and  watering  towards  the  end  of  the 
summer  would  probably  stop  the  leaves  from  shrivelling. 

Dahlias  (Jf.  C  Mhldleton).— "The  Dahlia:  Its  History 
and  Cultivation,"  Is.  GA.,  Macmillan  and  Co.,  St.  Martin's 
Street,  London,  will  give  you  much  information.  The 
chief  cultural  item  concerning  the  Gladiolus  just  now  is  to 
lift  and  dry  them  when  the  frost  has  cut  down  the  foliage. 
Subsequently  store  in  a  place  secure  from  frost,  as,  for 
example,  a  cellar  or  similar  place.  At  a  more  seasonable 
moment  we  may  give  an  article  dealing  with  these  things 
in  fuller  detail.  Meanwhile  we  shall  be  pleased  to  answer 
any  questions  you  desire  to  submit. 

Dahlias  virlth  injuped  leaves  (Mamv  Pnppy). 
The  very  small  pieces  ol  leaf  and  llower-bud  sent  are  iar 
too  small  to  enable  any  practical  conclusion  to  be  arrived 
at  as  to  the  cause  of  the  injury  evidenced.  To  enable  a 
proper  judgment  to  be  obtained,  the  portions  sent  should 
be  shoots  0  inches  long  carrying  leaves  and  buds,  packed 
in  soft,  damp  moss  in  a  suitable  box.  The  small  pieces 
sent,  having  no  such  care  shown  in  the  packing  and  being 
of  a  very  soft,  tender  nature,  were  so  much  bruised 
and  blackened  that  it  is  difficult  to  tell  whether  the  injury 
is  due  to  ill-usage  in  the  post  or  to  other  causes.  Obviously 
the  plants  are  doing  badly,  as  the  leaves  are  very  small. 
Under  what  conditions  are  they  grown  ?  Is  the  position  a 
cold  one  and  the  soil  stiff  and  wet,  or,  if  light,  is  it  very 
poor.  Generally  Dahlias,  although  flowering  late,  are  yet 
strong,  robust  and  healthy.  No  doubt  the  leaves  have 
been  partially  eaten  by  earwigs.  These  should  be  trapped 
in  the  usual  way  by  putting  small  flower-pots,  each  con- 
taining  a  small  piece  of  moss,  upside  down  on  the  top  of 
stakes,  then  examining  these  traps  each  morning  and 
destroying  the  insects. 


ROS£    GARDEN. 

Roses    for  very  llgrht  soil  {A 

Reader). — The  Tea-seented,  Hybrid  Teas  and 
Monthly  Rosea  would  really  thrive  best  in  your 
soil,  and,  if  possible,  we  advise  you  to  obtain 
them  on  their  own  roots.  There  may  be 
a  difficulty  in  doing  so,  but  the  fine,  hair-like 
roots  the  plants  produce  are  just  suited  for  a 
light  soil.  We  should  not  advise  you  to  plant 
standards.     If  unable  to  obtain  own-root  plants, 


then  procure  those  on  Briar.  You  must  take 
care  to  well  mulch  the  beds  in  summer  with  some 
well-rotted  manure.  This  is  of  great  assistance 
in  preserving  the  moisture  in  the  soil,  which 
Roses  love ;  and  if  you  scatter  on,  previous  to 
mulching,a  littlebone-meal  you  will  find  theplants 
appreciate  this  immensely.  The  following  would 
be  a  very  nice  selection,  and  they  are  mostly 
fragrant  sorts  :  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  La  France, 
Lady  Battersea,  Augustine  Guinoisseau,  General 
Macarthur,  Viscountess  Folkestone,  Laurent 
Carle,  Gustave  Grunerwald,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez, 
Anna  Olivier,  Mme.  Hoste,  Comtesse  du  Cayla, 
Aurore,  Irene  Watts  and  Mme.  Laurette  Mes- 
simy.  A  good,  fast-growing  crimson  Rose  for 
the  south  wall  would  be  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtem- 
burg  or  Noella  Nabonnand.  The  latter  is  very 
sweet,  but  the  former  is  the  brightest  in  colour. 
Three  good  varieties  for  arches  that  would  bloom 
together  in  early  summer  are  R6n6  Andr6,  Gold- 
finch and  Rubin,  or,  to  bloom  later,  Dorothy 
Perkins,  White  Dorothy  and  Hiawatha. 

Roses  for  verandah  (ir/cA7br<7).  —  Two  good 
climbiag  Roses  for  a  south  veraudali  would  be  Mme. 
Alfred  Carriere  and  jS^oella  Nabonnand ;  for  west,  Tau- 
aendschbn  and  Climbing  Caroline  Testout;  and  for  east, 
Lady  Gay  and  Hiawatha.  Good  ramblers  for  a  summer- 
house  are  Goldfinch,  Griiss  an  Zabern,  Rubin,  Dorothy 
Perkins,  Blush  Rambler  and  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  You  could 
lighten  the  soil  with  ashes  and  road  scrapings,  also  the 
clearings  from  ditches.  Dig  out  holes  some  3  feet  deep  if 
you  desire  free  growth  in  your  ramblers. 

Rose  Cpimson  Rambler  \7lth  Dligrhted 
buds  and  gpowtbs  (Copper  Xut).—  £\\y6  Rose 
should  never  be  planted  agaiuat  a  wail.  If  it  is  not 
attacked  with  mildew,  as  your  plant  is,  red  spider  will 
spoil  its  foliage  by  feeding  on  the  under  surface  of  the 
leaves.  A  good  remedy  for  the  mildew  is  a  thorough 
drenching,  by  immersing  the  shoots  in  or  syringing,  with 
a  solution  of  Lifebuoy  carbolic  soap.  Take  half  a  bar  of 
the  soap  and  dissolve  it  in  a  gallon  of  soft  water ;  then 
add  two  more  gallons  of  water.  When  cool,  use  it  upon 
the  plants  twice  a  week.  Hold  a  bowl  full  of  the  liquor 
beneath  the  affected  buds  and  shoots,  and  dip  them  in  it. 
This  practice  would  prevent  green  fly  and  mildew  attack- 
ing other  Roses  you  may  have. 

Roses  for  beds  (Combe  Hill).— We  think  the  Lyon 
Rose  would  be  an  admirable  sort  for  one  bed.  It  is  very  free 
in  flowering  and  a  good  strong  grower.  As  you  have 
Liberty  and  Richmond,  we  think  Chateau  de  Cloa  Vougeot 
would  he  a  good  dark  Rose.  Its  colour  is  velvety  maroon, 
something  of  the  shade  of  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  but 
it  is  lit  up  with  scarlet  touches.  Its  blooms  are  somewhat 
crimped,  but  it  is  a  tine  sort.  If  not  this  variety,  we 
advise  you  to  plant  General  McArthiir,  which  is  better  than 
the  others  you  name.  Neither  Medea  nor  Sulphurea  can  be 
recommended  as  yellow  bedding  Roses.  The  former  is  not 
free  enough,  and  the  latter  produces  a  white  effect  in  the 
mass,  although  exquisitely  beautiful  in  the  bud.  We 
should  recommend  either  Perle  des  Jaunes,  Le  Progres  or 
Mme.  Ravary,  unless  you  have  this  latter.  Mrs.  Peter 
Blair  is  good,  but  the  open  flowers  are  rather  whitish.  The 
best  pink,  omitting  the  three  you  name,  would  he  Mme. 
Leon  Pain  or  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill.     Both  are  grand  bedders. 

G-paftlng-  Roses  in  pots  (S.,  Billericay).—We 
do  not  think  your  plan  at  all  feasible,  as  grafted  Roses 
require  a  steady,  uniform  heat,  which  it  is  difficult  to 
maintain  except  by  a  hot-water  apparatus.  Your  best 
plan  would  be  to  pot  up  the  Briars  in  November  into 
3-inch  pots  and  plunge  them  in  a  bed  of  ashes ;  then  by 
careful  attention  the  Briars  could  be  budded  in  their  pots 
in  the  June  and  July  following.  They  should  be  kept 
outdoors,  still  plunged  and  watered  when  required,  until 
January,  when  they  could  be  brought  into  your  greenhouse 
and  placed  upon  a  bed  of  manure  made  up  in  the  house, 
unless  you  could  arrange  for  hot-water  pipes,  which  would 
be  far  better.  Cut  off  the  tops  of  the  Briars  level  with 
the  eye  or  bud,  and  they  will  start  and  make  plants  equal, 
if  not  superior,  to  grafted  plants.  Climbing  Roses  could 
be  budded  in  the  same  way,  or  you  could  bud  these  in  the 
open  ground  and  dig  up  the  budded  stocks  when  dormant 
and  pot  them  up.  Many  growers  of  pot  Roses  resort  to 
this  plan.  Seedling  Briars  would  be  preferable  to  Briar 
cuttings  for  both  purposes. 

Roses  w^ith  tall  iTPowths  (M.  A.  3/.).— Another 
season,  if  you  do  not  care  for  the  Roses  to  produce  such 
tall  growths,  we  recommend  you  to  bend  some  of  them 
over  arch-like  or  horizontal  instead  of  pruning  them  back 
in  the  spring.  Just  fasten  a  strong  peg  into  the  ground 
and  secure  the  growth  to  it  by  means  of  a  string  ;  then, 
when  the  gi'owth  has  blossomed,  cut  it  away,  to  be 
replaced  by  other  and  similar  growths  which  will  appear 
during  the  summer.  The  Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  sections 
should  largely  predominate  in  your  garden  if  you  desire  a 
freer  blossoming,  for,  it  these  are  cut  down  to  the  ground 
level  each  March  and  April,  they  will  send  up  growths  from 
2  feet  to  o  feet  in  height  and  covered  with  bloom. 
Perhaps  when  you  write  again  you  will  inform  us  what 
the  varieties  are  which  you  find  so  unruly ;  then  we  might 
be  able  to  advise  you  more  completely.  JFor  the  her- 
baceous border  nothing  could  be  a  better  substitute  for 
farmyard  manure  than  Wakeley's  Hop  Manure.  Probably 
the  border  needs  overhauling.  Many  subjects,  such  as 
the    Starworts,    perennial    Sunflowers,    &c.,    should    be 


548 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  November  G,  1909. 


repUuted  bieunially,  if  not  annually.  This  work  ahould  be 
done  now,  excepting  the  Starworts  (Asters),  as  these  are  in 
bloom.    In  their  case  the  spring  would  be  best. 


THE    GREENHOUSB. 
Plants   attacked  by  white  fly 

{B.  J.  B.). — Your  plants  are  attacked  by  what 
is  generally  termed  the  white  fly,  or  it  is  occa- 
sionally spoken  of  as  the  Tomato  fly,  from  the 
fact  that  it  is  sometimes  a  great  pest  to  the 
Tomato-grower.  Large  numbers  of  plants  are, 
however,  liable  to  its  attacks,  particularly  those 
whose  leaves  are  of  a  rather  soft  texture,  such 
as  the  Verbenas  mentioned  by  you.  Pelargoniums, 
Fuchsias,  Lantanas,  Heliotrope,  Abutilons,  &c. 
The  eggs  are  laid  in  such  numbers  on  the  under 
sides  ol  the  leaves  that  syringing  with  anj'  insec- 
ticide is  at  best  only  a  partial  remedy.  We  were 
very  interested  in  your  letter,  as  a  few  months 
ago  we  were  consulted  as  to  the  best  way  of 
clearing  a  greenhouse  of  these  pests.  They  were 
so  numerous  that  when  the  plants  were  agitated 
quite  a  cloud  of  these  insects  on  the  wing  made 
their  appearance.  From  previous  experience  we 
recommended  the  XL  All  Vaporiser,  with,  we 
are  pleased  to  say,  perfectly  successful  results. 
The  first  application  killed  all  the  mature  insects 
but  not  the  eggs,  and,  being  repeated  in  a  week, 
those  that  had  hatched  meanwhile  were  destroyed. 
After  the  house  had  been  vaporised  four  times  at 
intervals  of  a  week  or  so,  the  white  fly  was  com- 
pletely annihilated,  and  a  month  after  search  was 
in  vain  made  to  find  even  a  single  one. 

Capnations  sickly  (i'.  M.  £.).— The  condition  of 
your  Carnations  is  undoubtedly  due  to  some  error  in  culti- 
vation, but  without  a  word  as  to  the  treatment  given  to 
the  plants  we  cannot  point  out  the  cause.  At  the  same 
time,  it  may  be  noted  that,  though  an  excess  of  moisture  is 
very  hurtful  to  Carnations,  yet  if  allowed  to  get  too  dry  aa 
the  flowers  are  developing  mauy  of  the  buds  are  apt  to  go 
blind.  If  the  pots  are  well  furnished  with  roots,  an 
occasional  dose  of  liquid  manure  when  the  buds  are 
swelling  is  of  considerable  assistance,  as  there  is  then  a 
great  strain  on  the  plant. 

Stopping:  Malmalson  Capnations  {M.  L., 
St.  A.). — We  do  not  advise  you  to  stop  your  plants  of 
Malmaison  Carnations,  that  is,  in  a  general  way,  though 
there  may  be  a  few  individuals  whose  habit  of  growth  is 
such  that  they  will  lorm  better  plants  if  stopped.  We 
have  seen  stopping  tried  with  a  varying  amount  of 
success,  but  never  enough  to  warrant  its  general  adoption, 
'i'here  is,  however,  an  increasing  tendency  to  grow  on 
plants  for  another  year,  and  if  these  are  carefully  attended 
to,  fine  specimens  with  several  shoots  and  bearing  a  number 
of  blossoms  may  be  obtained. 

AVIntePlngr  the  Schlzanthus  {,C,„)stani 
iiei(def).— The  Schizanlhus  must  be  wintered  where  it  will 
be  safe  from  frost.  If  in  a  cold  frame  it  must,  of  course, 
be  covered  during  severe  weather.  By  many  cultivators 
Schizanthuses  are  kept  during  the  winter  in  a  cool  house 
from  which  frost  is  just  excluded.  It  is  very  essential  to 
allow  a  free  circulation  of  air  whenever  possible,  in  order 
to  lieep  the  plants  dwarf  and  sturdy.  Good  strong  plants 
may  be  potted  singly  into  pots  C  inches  or  7  inches  in 
diameter,  or,  if  they  are  weaker,  three  plants  can  be  grown 
in  a  pot,  arranging  them  triangularwise. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Outdoop     Grapes     In     concrete 

yard  (,J.  G.  Hart). — You  may  safely  out  away 
all  the  dead  wood  and  shoots  you  speak  of  as 
soon  as  possible — the  sooner  the  better — so  that 
the  Vine  shoots  of  this  year's  growth  may  be 
exposed  to  light  and  air,  and  thus  become 
harder  and  better  ripened,  and  more  likely  to 
produce  good  Grapes  next  year.  The  clearing 
away  of  this  dead  stuff  will  also  help  to  ripen  the 
present  crop  of  Grapes  quicker  and  earlier.  You, 
of  course,  understand  that  the  branches  grown 
this  year  are  those  which  will  bear  Grapes  next 
year,  and  therefore  should  be  taken  the  greatest 
care  of.  In  training  these  branches  when  the 
leaves  have  fallen,  you  must  train  them  over  as 
large  a  space  as  possible,  so  that  each  branch 
may  be  at  least  10  inches  or  1  foot  apart.  If 
there  are  too  many  of  these  shoots,  it  will  be 
better  to  cut  away  the  weakest  than  to  over- 
crowd the  wall  with  them.  You  should  devise 
some  means  of  protecting  the  Vines  from  the 
overflow  of  the  rain-water  pipes.  It  would  be  a 
good  plan  to  protect  the  stems  of  the  Vines,  as 
you  suggest,  against  injury   by  severe  frost  in 


winter.  A  little  of  the  outer  loose  bark  may  be 
rubbed  off  with  the  hand,  but  be  careful  not  to 
take  off  too  much.  In  dry  weather  in  summer 
the  Vines  would  be  benefited  by  an  occasional 
heavy  watering  with  manure- water.  The  best  to 
use  for  this  purpose  is  that  formed  by  mixing  a 
handful  of  Peruvian  Guano  in  two  gallons  of 
water. 

Pears  on  waUs  oolouringr  badly 
and  cracking  {N'eiola7id).—Tbe  injury  to 
your  Pears  has  been  caused  by  an  attack  of  the 
Pear  fungus  (Fusicleidium  pyrinum)  when  the 
trees  were  in  flower.  It  attacks  the  flowers 
and  thus  prevents  the  young  fruit  from  setting 
properly,  and  growth  is  thus  crippled  and  the 
fruit  rendered  of  little  value  by  the  cratking  of 
the  skin.  The  best  way  of  destroying  the  fungus 
is  by  collecting  all  the  loaves  and  burning  them, 
serving  the  prunings  from  the  tree  in  the  same 
way.  Then  spray  your  trees  copiously  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  and  again  in  spring,  just  before 
growth  starts,  and  you  should  be  rid  of  the 
fungus. 

Peaps  cpackine  (fi'cro/r).— Please  see   reply  to 
"  Newland." 
Cheapest  stuff  to  use  fop  grease  bands 

[y<irl(iiHt).  —  Anything  of  a  greasy  nature  which  will 
remain  soft  for  some  time  will  do.  Cart-wheel  grease  is 
as  good  as  anything ;  or  you  can  obtain  the  bands  ready  for 
use  from  Walter  Voss  and  Co.,  5,  Millwall,  London,  E.C. 

An  old  Nectapine  tpee  dropping  Its 
fpuit  {J.  C).— The  variety  is  Victoria,  one  of  the  best 
late  Nectarines  we  have.  The  fruit  sent  is  of  fair  average 
size,  of  good  weight  and  well  nourished,  and  the  reason 
for  such  fruit  dropping  prematurely,  we  think,  is  because 
the  tree  is  suffering  for  the  want  of  water  at  its  roots. 
Provided  the  border  is  well  drained,  the  Peach  tree  when 
bearing  heavy  crops  of  fruit  is  greatly  benefited  by  heavy 
and  frequent  waterings,  using,  if  available,  weak  manure- 
water  from  the  cow  or  stable  yard.  This  specially  applies 
to  old  trees.  As  soon  as  the  fruit  has  been  gathered  we 
advise  you  to  give  your  tree  a  heavy  watering  with 
clear  lime-water.  A  week  afterwards  give  the  tree  a 
good  watering  with  manure-water  the  same  as  above,  but 
considerably  stronger,  and  water  again  in  the  same  way 
in  the  course  of  a  fortnight.  If  this  liquid  manure  is  not 
available,  the  following  is  the  best  substitute  you  can 
have  :  Dissolve  half  a  pint  of  Peruvian  Guano  and  add  to 
it  three  gallons  of  water.  We  have  known  the  dropping 
of  Peach  fruit  at  the  same  stage  as  yours  is  in  to  be  caused 
by  forcing  the  tree  in  too  high  a  temperature.  It  is,  of 
course,  well  known  that  the  absence  of  lime  in  sufficient 
quantity  in  the  soil  is  the  cause  of  many  failures  in  the 
growth  of  the  Peach,  as  well  as  other  stone  fruits.  This 
Is  the  reason  that  we  recommend  you  to  give  the  tree  a 
good  soaking  of  lime-water.  As  soon  as  the  border  is 
sufficiently  dry  after  the  three  waterings  for  it  to  be  forked 
over,  give  the  border  a  dressing  of  bone-meal  and  lime  in 
equal  quantities,  half  a  gallon  of  the  mixture  to  every 
square  yard,  afterwards  forking  it  in  a  few  inches  deep. 
If  this  treatment,  with  more  frequent  waterings  next  year 
when  the  fruit  is  swelling,  does  not  succeed  in  arresting 
this  complaint,  write  us  again,  and  we  shall  know  what  to 
recommend  you  to  do. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

AVben  to  use  capblde  of  calcium  refuse 

(E.  A.  fl.).— This  may  be  used  alter  exposure  to  the  air  for  a 
time.  When  dry  it  should  be  spread  on  the  ground  at  the 
rate  of  about  one-third  to  half  a  bushel  per  square  rod, 
broken  as  finely  as  possible  and  hoed  or  forked  in.  It  may 
be  used  wherever  lime  is  required,  but,  of  course,  not  for 
Heaths,  Rhododendrons  and  other  plants  belonging  to  the 
Ericaceae. 

Apples  attacked  by  scab  (A'.  M.  />.).--The 
Apple  is  attacked  by  Apple  scab,  due  to  Fusicladium 
dendriticum.  All  dead  wood  should  be  cut  out  of  the  tree 
and  burned.  It  should  be  sprayed  with  copper  sulphate 
solution,  lib.  to  twenty-five  gallons  of  water,  during  the 
winter,  and  in  the  spring,  after  the  petals  have  fallen,  with 
half-strength  Bordeaux  mixture,  and  agam  with  the  same 
about  the  middle  of  June. 

Grass  on  law^n  thin  and  poopf^l.  H.  W.  D.).~- 
You  say  your  lawn  overlies  a  barren,  sandy,  gravel  soil. 
Under  these  unfavourable  conditions  to  healthy  growth  of 
grass  or  anything  else,  it  is  useless  to  hope  to  ever  possess 
a  verdant  and  beautiful  green  lawn  in  summer.  The  best 
treatment  to  adopt,  no  doubt,  would  be  to  take  the  turf 
up  and  dig  the  soil  deeply,  burying  the  turf  at  the  bottom, 
and  adding  good  rotten  farmyard  manure  at  the  rate 
of  three  cartloads  to  the  40  square  yards  of  surface, 
and  then  sowing  the  best  lawn  seed  at  the  end  of  March, 
using  three  bushels  of  seed  to  the  acre.  As  you  say 
this  is  out  of  the  question,  the  next  best  thing  to 
do,  and  the  only  treatment  likely  to  benefit  the  lawn, 
seeing  the  soil  is  so  hungry  and  poor,  1b  to  cover  the 
lawn  over  now  with  soil  composed  as  follows,  applying  one 
cartload  of  the  mixture  to  every  40  square  yards  of  the 
lawn  :  To  one  cartload  of  good  rich  garden  soil  add  151b. 
of  basic  slag,  the  same  of  bone-meal,  and  301b.  of 
quicklime,  mixing  the  whole  well  together.  This 
you  will   find    will    have    the   effect  of   destroying  the 


lichen,  and  at  the  same  time  will  greatly  stimulate 
the  growth  of  the  grasses  during  the  following  spring 
and  summer.  The  result  would  be  much  better  if 
a  bushel  of  the  beat  grass  seed  could  be  sown  over  the 
surface  of  the  lawn  at  the  end  of  March,  rolling  it  firmly  in 
with  a  heavy  roller  and  protecting  it  from  birds  until 
the  young  grass  is  in  active  growth. 

Planting    hapdy   floweps   (T.    J/.).— Provided 

the  soil  is  well  prepared  (by  trenching,  if  it  has  not 
been  trenched  within  recent  years)  or  by  digging  and 
manuring  (not  too  heavily)  and  "by  the  free  application  of 
fresh  lime  to  the  soil  at  the  time  of  digging,  we  think  it 
is  much  preferable  to  plant  those  hardy  plants  intended 
for  the  furnishing  of  the  flower  borders  for  either  spring 
or  summer  flowering  in  autumn  than  in  spring,  always 
choosing  a  time  for  planting  when  the  soil  is  moderately 
dry.  Aa  regards  the  weather,  this  season  has  been 
altogether  out  of  joint ;  growth  of  hardy  and  half-hardy 
plants,  too,  has  been  very  late,  and  often  most  erratic. 
The  lime,  we  hope,  will  help  to  prevent  the  Aster  disease 
you  speak  of. 

The  Wondepbeppy  (/.  5.  C.).— Much  has  been 
written  about  this  notorious  so-called  production  of  Luther 
Burbank,  which  is  nothing  more  than  a  form  of  that 
cosmopolitan  weed,  Solanum  nigrum.  Grown  under 
various  conditions,  this  plant  is  extremely  variable  in 
habit,  aa  well  aa  in  the  size  and  colour  of  its  berries.  In 
this  country  the  berries  of  S.  nigrum  are  usually  con- 
sidered of  a  poisonous  nature,  but  it  is  possible  that  in 
more  luxuriant  varieties  grown  in  warmer  countries  the 
active  principal,  solanine,  is  not  present  in  such  large 
quantities  as  to  cause  ill  eflfects,  and  may  be  wholly  re- 
moved by  cooking.  A  paper  on  solanine  in  Solanum  nigrum 
was  read  before  the  scientific  committee  oi  the  Koyal 
Horticultural  Society  on  September  2-sth. 

Vapious  questions  {RonaU  A.  C.  JejMes).  — 
(1)  Root  cuttings  of  Anchusa  may  be  insertt;d  from 
November  to  February  inclusive  ;  but  as  we  hope  shortly 
to  give  an  article  dealing  with  this,  we  refrain  from  fuller 
details  now.  (-J)  The  burning  of  sulphur  for  the  destruc- 
tion of  red  spiaer  in  a  vinery  may  lead  to  very  disastrous 
results,  and  is  best  not  attempted  by  an  amateur.  If  you 
cannot  obtain  the  assistance  of  an  expert  gardener  near, 
you  had  better  paint  the  hot-water  pipes  with  sulpliur  and 
heat  them  excessively  hot  for  an  hour  or  so,  or  you  may  at 
any  time  when  the  fruit  is  gathered  syringe  the  plants,  or 
obtain  a  Campbell  Fumigator  for  sulphuring.  Frequent 
spraying  with  nicoticide  is  excellent,  as  is  also  the  use  of 
quassia  and  soft  soap  in  solution  for  discouraging  the  pest. 
A  6-inch  potful  of  the  quassia,  boiled  till  the  chips  sink, 
will  make  sufficient  for  six  gallons,  soft  soap  at  the  rate  of 
^Ib.  having  been  first  dissolved.  (3)  Six  good  Chryaanthe- 
mums  should  include  Elaine,  William  Holmes,  Soleil 
d'Octobre,  Source  d'Or,  Lizzie  Adcock  and  October  King. 
(4)  Salt,  when  employed  as  a  manure  dressing  to  Celery, 
should  be  applied  in  August  and  again  in  September, 
before  much  earthing-up  has  been  done.  A  0-inch  flower- 
potful,  finely  powdered,  would  be  sufficient  for  a  row 
40  feet  in  length,  sptinkling  the  salt  each  side  of  the  row 
at  G  inches  distance  from  the  plants.  Applied  just  prior 
to  rainy  weather,  say,  the  first  week  in  August,  and  again 
in  four  weeks'  time,  would  be  ample  in  one  season.  (5j  To 
tell  you  the  name  of  a  pink-flowered  Chrysanthemum  you 
saw  in  the  shops  laat  Christmas  would  be  for  us  the 
merest  guesswork,  though  probably  it  might  prove  to  be 
either  Winter  Cheer  or  Framfield  Pink.  Had  yon  pur- 
chased a  bunch  and  forwarded  us  one  of  the  best  blooms, 
we  could  have  told  you  definitely.  Possibly  you  might  see 
it  again,  and  if  so,  you  might  do  as  we  suggest. 

Relaying  an  old  lavtm  (Constant  liemler).— 
Purchased  turf  for  lawns  is  for  convenience,  both  for 
measuring  and  handling,  cut  in  sods  or  lengths  12  inches 
wide  and  30  inches  long,  and  in  your  own  case  you  cannot 
much  improve  matters.  Turf  so  cut,  and  if  thinly  cut,  is 
easily  rolled  up  and  just  as  easily  rolled  down  for  the 
relaying.  The  thickness  of  these  turf  sods  should  be  about 
1^  inches,  and  there  is  no  gain  whatever  by  cutting  the 
soda  very  thick.  We  presume  the  lawn  is  not  now  level 
or  that  there  exists  holes  or  many  bad  patches  whic) 
render  necessary  the  relaying  of  it ;  hence  its  whole  area 
should  be  dug  over— it  may  be  1  inch  or  2  inches  deep,  or 
much  deeper— the  depth  depending  on  the  condition  of 
the  soil,  the  drainage  and  other  things.  You  ask  "  how  the 
level  can  be  got  1 "  and  we  reply  only  by  levelling.  It  may 
be  that  a  dead  level  would  be  unsightly,  and  in  certain 
instances,  where  the  surroundings  are  not  quite  level,  any 
treatment  of  the  lawn  should  approximate  thereto. 
Should  the  lawn  be  required  for  any  of  the  outdoor  games 
requiring  a  level  aurface  for  their  due  performance,  you 
would  have  to  act  accordingly.  A  true  level  is  obtained  by 
using  a  spirit-level  and  straight-edge,  employing  these 
in  lengths  and  bringing  up  the  soil  to  such  level.  On 
larger  areas  boning  rods,  so-called,  are  employed,  and 
in  good  or  experienced  hands  nothing  more  is  required. 
If  your  lawn  ia  not  large  and  only  required  for  ordinary 
garden  purposes,  a  good  gardener  would  arrange  matters 
almost  by  sight.  The  soil  after  digging  would  have  to  be 
first  broken  down  with  a  fork  and  then  with  a  rake, 
finally  employing  a  little  fine  soil  on  which  to  relay  the 
turf.  The  whole  area  should  be  first  levelled  before  any 
turf  is  put  down,  and  the  operator  should  work  from 
planks  placed  on  the  newly  laid  turf,  and  not  from  the 
prepared  ground  side,  which  would  tread  it  in  holes.  To 
do  this  correctly,  planks  ahould  be  laid  on  the  soil  for  the 
first  two  or  three  widths,  to  permit  of  placing  the  turf; 
then,  changing  the  planks  to  the  turf  side,  complete  the 
work  from  this  point.  Close  fitting  is  rather  an  important 
item,  and  full-width  turves,  not  pieces  or  scraps,  should 
always  appear  at  the  outer  edges  of  the  lawn,  and  be 
overlapped  sufficiently  to  permit  of  proper  trimming  off. 


Supplemetit  to  THE  GARDEN,  November  6th,   1909. 


THE    NEW 
ROSE    AMERICAN    PILLAR. 


Hudson  &  Keartis,  Ltd.,  Printers,  London,  S.E. 


J 


<«>  ^sfey-- 


GARDEN. 


-5^= 


dfJ^P 


No.  1982.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


NOVEJIBER  13,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


Hybrid  Stkepto- 
CARPUS        

Notes  of  thb  Week 
Forthcoming  events 

C  JRBKSPONDEHOE 

The  colour  chart     . . 

Delphinium  Beauty 
of  Langport   ..     .. 

Rodgeraia  pinnata  , . 

Ranunculus  Lyallii . . 

Kose  Jessie 

National  Sweet  Pea 
Society's  classifica- 
tion lists  

<5REENH0U8E 

The     stopping    and 
timing  of  Chrysan- 
themums      . .     . . 
Trees  and  Shrubs 

On    plants    for    the 
walls     of     houses 
possessing      archi- 
tectural merit 
Rose  Sardeb 

Notes  on  newer 
Roses.— VIII. 

A  new   golden   bed- 
ding Rose 
Onaton  Hall  Gardens, 

Plymontli 


Flower  aASDEB 
A  new  race  of  branch- 
ing Tulips      . .     . .    554 
Ouriaia  coccinea      . .    55i 
Pentstemon  Myddel- 

ton  Gem 554 

Design     in      garden 
pathways       . .     . .    555 
Fruit  Garden 
Fruit  notes       . .     . .    555 

Gardening  for  Beginners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        556 

Planting     bulbs     in 

turf 560 

The  Town  Garden  ..    557 
Gardening  of  the  Week 
For    the  South   and 

South  Midlands     .     558 
For  the    North   and 
North  Midlands  ..    558 

The  Editor's  Table     . .    568 

ANSWERS      TO     CORBE- 
SF0HDBNT8 

Flower  garden  . .     . .  568 

Trees  and  shrubs     . .  559 

Greenhouse 559 

Miscellaneous  ..     ..  659 


Societies 


659 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

The  new  dwarf  Polyantha  Rose  Jessie 661 

A  noble  plant :  Delphinium  Beauty  of  Langport       . .  561 

The  new  Pentstemon  Myddelton  Gem 553 

A  new  race  of  Tulips  with  branching  sterna 564 

Paved  terrace  and  ateps  planted  with  alpine  flowers  566 

Planting  bulbs  in  turf 656,657 


EDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

iwrv  deportment  of  horticulture  ia  represented  in  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  thai  object  he  loishes  to  make 
the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  column  a  conspicuous 
feature^  andt  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
VfiU  kijtdly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  o)  their  assistance. 
Am  communicationa  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  HDHOR  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  o)  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
but  he  wUl  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  hovKver,  wiU  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
are  enclosed,  he  iviU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
co^Uributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plmrdy  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
cr  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
wnd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  cm  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THE  GARDEN 
vriU  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  10,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


HYBRID      STREPTOCARPUS. 

FOR  the  vast  improvement  which  has 
taken  place  during  recent  years  in 
this  charming  flower,  we  are  probably 
more  indebted  to  that  veteran  florist, 
Mr.  John  Heal,  V.M.H.,  to  Messrs. 
.J.  Veitch  and  Sons  of  Chelsea,  and  to  Mr. 
William  Watson,  Curator  of  the  Royal  Gardens, 
Kew,  than  to  anyone  else,  each  having  done 
yeoman  service  in  hybridising  and  popularising 
this  now,  I  might  almost  say,  universal  plant. 
Not  only  is  there  an  improvement  in  the  size  of 
the  flowers,  but  almost  every  shade  of  colour  is 
present,  except  yellow.  In  addition,  the  length 
of  footstalk  is  much  greater,  which  renders  them 
suitable  for  all  kinds  of  floral  decorations,  and  the 
flowers,  fortunately,  last  for  a  considerable  time 
in  a  cut  state.  Suitably  arranged  with  Orchids, 
when  a  proper  selection  of  colours  is  blended, 
they  make  a  charming  table  decoration.  I  have, 
during  the  past  fifteen  years  or  so,  done  what  I 
could  to  help  in  the  direction  of  improving 
what  I  believe  will  be  for  some  years  to  come 
one  of  the  most  appreciated  flowers  when 
its  cultivation  becomes  better  known  than  at 
the  present  day.  One  distinct  advantage  is  that 
with  proper  care  and  attention  the  same  plants 
may  be  had  in  flower  at  least  from  early  April 
until  the  middle  or  end  of  November.  A  mistake 
too  often  made  is  that  the  Streptoearpus  is 
treated  far  too  much  as  a  stove  plant  rather  than 
as  a  greenhouse  subject. 

Sbbd-sowing. 
The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  the  new 
year,  either  in  well-drained  seed-pans  or  pots. 
The  surface  on  which  the  seed  is  to  germinate 
should  be  fine  and  made  moderately  firm,  and 
the  seed  (which  is  very  minute)  scattered  evenly 
over  the  surface.  Press  this  well  in  and  do 
not  cover  it  with  soil.  The  whole  should  be 
thoroughly  moistened  by  standing  the  pot  or  pan 
in  a  pail  of  water  to  the  rim.  A  piece  of  glass 
should  be  placed  over  the  top,  after  which 
transfer  it  to  the  shady  part  of  a  warm  house 
until  germination  (which  is  rather  slow)  takes 
place,  and  subsequently  place  it  near  the  glass, 
but  shade  from  bright  sunshine.  Immediately 
the  seedlings  are  large  enough  prick  them  into 
shallow  boxes  or  pans,  and  grow  on  in  the  same 
temperature,  taking  care  to  protect  them  from 
bright  sunshine.  Directly  the  young  plants 
show  signs  of  making  their  second  leaf  they 
should  be  potted  singly  in  3-inoh  pots,  which 
should  be  well  drained,  using  a  soil  composed  of 
two  parts  light  loam,  the  same  of  well-decayed 
leaf-soil,  and  one  part  of  coarse  silver  sand. 
These  may  be  grown  on  in  an  intermediate 
house    until    they    become    established,   always 


bearing  in  mind  that  the  Streptoearpus  is  a 
shade-loving  plant,  and  the  foliage  must  never 
be  allowed  to  become  burnt.  They  may  then 
be  removed  to  a  slightly  heated  pit,  placing  them 
on  a  bed  of  ashes  as  near  the  glass  as  possible, 
shading  the  latter  with  whitewash  or  some  other 
suitable  material.  The  plants  must  never  be 
allowed  to  suffer  for  the  want  of  water.  The 
young  plants  should  begin  to  flower  about  the 
middle  of  August,  and  if  a  good  strain  has  been 
selected  it  will  be  found  extremely  interesting  to 
watch  their  development.  Each  one  of  note 
should  be  labelled  and  these  particular  plants 
placed  together  for  growing  on  the  following 
season.  All  worthless  varieties  should  berejeeted. 
During  November  and  December  the  plants 
ought  to  be  kept  in  a  greenhouse  temperature, 
allowing  them  to  become  moderately  dry  to  give 
them  the  needed  rest,  and  during  .January  pot  on 
the  plants,  after  giving  them  a  thorough  soaking 
of  water,  into  .5-inch  or  6-inch  pots.  These  must 
be  well  drained  and  a  few  quarter-inch  bones 
placed  on  the  top  of  the  drainage  ;  after  which 
some  good  fibre,  taken  from  the  loam  heap, 
should  be  placed  thereon  to  prevent  the  soil 
clogging  the  same. 

The  soil  for  this  potting  should  consist  of  good 
fibrous  loam  three  parts,  one  of  good  leaf -soil  or 
peat,  one  also  of  good  silver  sand,  and  a  6-inoh 
potful  of  finely  broken  potsherds  may  be 
mixed  to  every  half-bushel  of  soil.  Pot  very 
firmly,  and  start  the  plants  into  growth  in  an  in- 
termediate house,  but  rather  err  on  the  side  of 
giving  too  little  than  too  much  fire-heat.  Never 
exceed  a  maximum  of  60°.  Raise  the  plants  as 
near  to  the  glass  as  possible,  be  sparing  of  water 
until  they  become  well  established,  and  do 
not  damp  the  foliage  overhead,  but  give  plenty 
of  moisture  by  syringing  between  the  pots,  the 
walls  and  paths.  As  soon  as  the  plants  have 
plenty  of  roots  in  the  new  soil,  manure-water 
of  medium  strength  should  be  given  every 
third  watering,  and  when  in  full  flower  this 
may  be  increased  to  every  other  time.  I  have 
found  nothing  to  suit  them  better  than  that 
made  from  horse  and  cow  manure  in  equal  pro- 
portions, to  which  should  be  added  a  small  bag 
of  soot.  Clay's  Fertilizer,  by  way  of  a  change,  is 
a  safe  and  valuable  manure  when  applied  accord- 
ing to  directions.  To  ensure  the  plants  con- 
tinuing to  flower  for  a  long  season  the  old 
flower-stalk  and  seed-pods  should  be  removed, 
except,  of  course,  any  which  may  be  wanted  for 
seeding  purposes. 

Insect  Pests. 

The  two  most  troublesome  of  these  we  have  to 

deal  with  in  relation  to  Streptoearpus  are  green 

aphis  and  mealy  bug.     The  latter  should  never  be 

allowed  to  come  into  contact  with  the  plants  if 


550 


THE    GARDEN. 


I  November  13,  1909. 


posBible,  and  green  fly  may  be  kept  in  check  by 
fumigatiug  the  plants  about  once  in  ten  days  or 
a  fortnight  with  XL  All.  The  most  suitable 
house  for  flowering  the  plants  during  the 
summer  and  autumn  months  is  a  low  span- 
roofed  one,  and  during  hot  weather  a  moderate 
amount  of  air  must  be  given  both  day  and  night. 
The  same  plants  may  be  grown  on  for  several 
years,  but  I  have  found  it  preferable  to  raise 
young  plants  annually  and  throw  the  old  ones 
away  after  the  second  year's  growth. 

Propagation  by  Leaves. 

The  propagation  of  any  special  variety  may  be 
easily  done  by  means  of  leaves.  This  is  best 
performed  early  in  the  spring.  The  midribs  of 
the  leaves  should  be  placed  round  the  outside  of 
a  pot  in  some  place  in  a  warm  house,  and  these 
will  throw  up  young  plants  from  the  base. 

E.  Beckett. 

[We  are  very  pleased  to  receive  these  notes 
from  Mr.  Beckett,  gardener  to  the  Hon.  Vicary 
Gibbs,  Elstree,  Herts.  A  selection  of  flowers 
raised  by  him  was  shown  recently  before  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  and  obtained  an 
award  of  merit ;  they  were  very  beautiful  in 
form  and  range  of  colouring. — Ed.] 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING  EVENTS. 

November  13. — Burton-on-Trent  Chrysanthe- 
mum Society's  Show. 

November  16.  —  Winchester  Horticultural 
Society's  Show  (two  days). 

November  17.  —  York  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Show  (three  days). 

November  18.  —  Bamsley  Horticultural 
Society's  Show  (two  days)  ;  Scottish  Horticul- 
tural Association's  Chrysanthemum  Show  (two 
days). 

November  19. — Cumberland  Chrysanthemum 
Society's  Show  ;  Leeds  Paxton  Chrysanthemum 
Show  (two  days)  ;  Bolton  Chrysanthemum  Show 
(two  days). 


Photogrraphs    of   Sweet    Peas.— 

Will  any  of  our  readers  who  have  photographs  of 
Sweet  Peas  kindly  send  them  to  us,  so  that  we 
can  make  a  selection  for  reproduction  in  The 
Garden.  Those  of  well-grown  plants,  or  of 
plants  grown  in  unusual  ways,  will  be  most 
welcome.  Each  photograph  should  have  the 
name  and  address  of  the  sender  written  clearly 
on  the  back  and  be  addressed  to  the  Editor. 
Those  not  suitable  for  reproduction  will  be 
returned  at  once.  Where  payment  for  the  use 
of  a  photograph  is  required,  this  should  also  be 
clearly  stated  in  the  accompanying  letter. 

Jubilee  Flower  Show,  Haaplem, 
1910. — August  and  September  were  very  busy 
months  for  the  organisers  of  this  show.  A  part 
of  the  grounds  is  laid  out  in  regular  French  style 
in  connexion  with  the  imposing  building  of  the 
palace  at  the  north  side  of  the  grounds,  which 
formerly  belonged  to  King  Louis  Napoleon 
during  his  short  stay  in  Holland.  The  other 
part  of  the  show  is  designed  in  natural  landscape 
style,  affording  an  opportunity  for  a  great  number 
of  most  picturesque  groups  and  clumps  of  all 
kinds  of  bulbs  growing  naturally  at  the  feet  of 
old  trees,  which  are  the  pride  of  the  Haarlem 
park.  The  nurserymen  of  Boskoop,  Aalsmeer 
and  other  well-known  centres  of  the  Dutch  nursery 
trade  will  plant  masses  of  conifers.  Yews,  Taxus, 
flowering  shrubs  and  trees  in  early  spring.  The 
temporary  shows  will  be  held  in  two  spacious 
buildings  specially  erected  for  the  purpose  and 
affording  the  best  possible  conditions  of  light  and 
artistic  arrangements.  Deputations  have  already 
been  announced  by  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  the  Soci^te  Nationale  d'Horticulture  de 
France,  the  Soci^t^  Royale  d' Agriculture  et  de 


Botanique  de  Gand  and  the  Verband  der  Handels- 
gartner  Deutschlands.  The  deputation  from  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  will  consist  of  Sir 
Albert  RoUit,  Messrs.  Harry  J.  Veitch,  E.  A. 
Bowles,  James  Hudson  and  the  Rev.  W.  Wilks. 
Trees  In  thoroughfares.— The 
Metropolitan  Public  Gardens  Association,  83, 
Lancaster  Gate,  W. ,  have  for  the  third  year  in 
succession  been  appointed  by  the  Council  of  the 
Royal  Borough  of  Kensington  to  supervise  the 
pruning  and  lopping  of  the  trees  in  the  public 
thoroughfares  of  the  borough  during  the  winter 
season.  Trees  so  situated  too  often  suffer  severe 
injury  and  mutilation  owing  to  this  important 
work  being  entrusted  to  those  who  lack  the 
necessary  skill  and  knowledge. 

South-Eastern  Agricultural 

College. — A  meeting  of  the  governors  of  the 
South-Eastern  Agricultural  College,  Wye,  was 
held  on  Monday,  November  1,  at  Caxton  House, 
Westminster,  Lord  Ashcombe  presiding.  The 
Principal  (Mr.  M.  J.  R.  Dunstan)  reported  128 
students  to  be  in  residence  and  a  great  increase 
in  the  number  entering  for  the  degree  course  of  the 
University  of  London.  The  governors  adopted  a 
recommendation  from  the  college  committee  that 
the  college  should  be  gradually  enlarged  to 
eventually  provide  adequate  teaching  and 
research  accommodation  for  150  students.  It 
was  announced  that  the  Archbishop  of  Canter- 
bury would  visit  the  college  on  December  7. 

National  Carnation  and  Picotee 
Society    (Southern    section).— At  a 

committee  meeting  held  on  Saturday,  October  30, 
it  was  unanimously  decided  that  the  show  for 
1910  be  held  at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Hall  on  Tuesday,  July  26,  and  that  the  schedule 
remain  as  for  1909,  with  the  addition  of  a  class, 
open  to  amateurs  only,  for  twelve  distinct 
varieties  of  selfs,  fancies  and  yellow-ground 
Piootees  (undressed)  ;  first  prize,  the  Martin 
Smith  Memorial  Challenge  Cup  and  medal ; 
second  prize,  253.  ;  third  prize,  15s.  :  the 
challenge  cup  to  be  held  for  the  year. — T.  E. 
Henwood,  Hon.  Secretary. 
Proposed     testimonial     to     Mr. 

James  Grieve, — We  understand  that  it  is 
intended  to  promote  a  testimonial  to  Mr.  James 
Grieve,  the  well-known  Edinburgh  nurseryman, 
and  a  committee  with  this  object  in  view  is  being 
formed  to  further  the  movement.  Mr.  Grieve  is 
a  universal  favourite  in  horticultural  circles, 
and  as  he  is  approaching  the  anniversary  of  his 
fifty  years'  connexion  with  the  nursery  trade, 
the  present  is  considered  a  fitting  opportunity 
of  showing  the  esteem  in  which  he  is  held,  and 
the  general  recognition  of  Mr.  Grieve's  services 
to  horticulture  and  in  that  of  Scotland  in 
particular.  It  will,  doubtless,  meet  with  hearty 
support,  and  we  are  glad  of  the  opportunity  of 
announcing  the  movement.  Mr.  S.  Chalmers, 
6,  Melbourne  Place,  Edinburgh,  is  the  hon. 
secretary. 

National  Auricula  and  Primula 
Society  (Southern  section).— A  com- 
mittee meeting  of  the  above  society  was  held 
on  Saturday,  October  30,  when  it  was  resolved  to 
hold  the  show  for  1910  on  Tuesday,  May  3,  in 
conjunction  with  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
the  schedule  to  remain  the  same  as  for  1909. 
The  society  was  established  in  1875,  and  an 
annual  exhibition  has  been  held  in  London  every 
year  since.  The  society  consists  of  100  members, 
and  it  is  hoped  this  number  may  be  increased. 
This  old-fashioned  favourite  flower  has  been  in 
existence  in  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  for 
upwards  of  300  years.  Under  proper  treatment 
the  Auricula  is  easily  grown,  and  it  is  hoped 
Auricula-growers  reading  this  notice  may  become 
members  of  the  Auricula  Society,  the  annual 
subscription  to  which  is  5s, ,  entitling  them  to  a 
ticket  for  the  Auricula  show  and  also  the  exhibit 
of  spring  flowers  held  by  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society.  Any  further  information  and 
schedules  of  the  exhibition  may  be  obtained  from 
Mr.  T.  E.  Henwood,  16,  Hamilton  Road, 
Reading. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the    opiniont 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 


Atkin's  Continuity  Strawberry. 

I  was  very  pleased  to  notice  that  Atkin's 
Continuity  Strawberry  received  an  award  of 
merit  at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  meet- 
ing on  September  2S.  I  have  been  much 
interested  in  watching  this  variety  for  two 
seasons,  seeing  it  nearly  every  week.  Last 
season  I  saw  good  fruits  gathered  in  November. 
This  season,  as  we  all  know  so  well,  has  been 
bad,  especially  for  soft  fruits,  but  the  crop  has 
been  wonderful,  both  from  one  and  two  year 
old  plants.  As  I  stand  among  them  to-day 
(October  22)  many  plants  have  fruits  in  all  stages. 
I  can  fully  recommend  it  to  all  Strawberry- 
growers,  both  as  a  summer,  but  more  especially 
as  an  autumn,  variety. — John  Gray,  Wilton 
House,  Woodside,  South  Norwood,  S.E.  [Our 
correspondent  sent  excellent  fruits,  which  were 
of  very  fine  flavour. — Ed.] 

Pansy  Matchless.- If  Pansies  such  a» 
those  depicted  in  the  coloured  plate  for 
October  23  can  be  grown  from  seed  with  a  fair 
percentage  having  flowers  of  the  quality  in 
question,  it  will  soon  be  unnecessary  to  select 
and  name  the  very  best  and  propagate  the  same' 
from  cuttings.  They  belong  to  the  strain  known 
as  Fancy  Pansies  of  the  florist,  a  strain  that 
originated  in  France  in  the  early  thirties,  and 
was  further  improved  there  as  well  as  in  Belgium 
before  the  florists  of  this  country  took  them  up 
and  brought  them  to  the  degree  of  perfection, 
which  we  see  to-day.  Naturally,  the  florists  of 
this  country  have  spent  an  immense  amount  of 
time  over  them,  and  have  taken  a  great  deal  o( 
pains  in  getting  the  flower  to  its  present  size, 
variety  of  colours  and  their  well-defined  arrange- 
ment upon  the  petals.  The  leading  feature  of 
this  strain  consists  in  the  very  large  blotch  on 
each  of  the  three  lower  petals,  leaving  only  room 
for  a  margin  or  lacing  of  some  other  colour, 
sometimes  shaded  with  another  hue,  and  thu» 
recalling  the  edge  of  an  alpine  Auricula.  - 
Plants  raised  from  seeds  are  more  vigorous  than 
plants  from  cuttings,  and  more  easy  to  cultivate 
by  the  community  at  large.  — J.  F. 

Colohlcum  glganteum.— The  note  by 
"S.    A.''  on  page  518   reminds   me   that  there 
are    now   at   least    three    species    of    Meadow 
Saffron     having    the     massive    flowers    of    C. 
speciosum,  the  other  two,  of  course,  being  C. 
Bornmuelleri  and  C.  giganteum.     The  flowers  of 
the  first  two  are  cup-shaped,  and  C.  speciosum 
has  a  long  tube  to  the  flower.     This  also  applies 
to    the    plant    under    notice,    which    may    be 
described  as  having  very  large  rosy  flowers  with 
a  white  centre,  long,  pointed,  spreading  segments 
and  a  flower  tube  9  inches  long.     I  have  heard  it 
described   as  bearing  the  same  relation  to  C. 
speciosum    as  a  Japanese  to    an    incurved    or 
Chinese  Chrysanthemum,  referring  to  the  long 
and  pointed  segments  of  the  flower.     Cultivation 
has  a  good  deal  to  do  with  the  actual  size  of  the 
flowers,  but  a  fair  test  for  comparison  is  obtain- 
able when  these  plants  are  all  grown  under  the 
same    or    similar    conditions.     I    have  seen  C. 
speciosum  grown  in  a  pot  for  some  years  in  ao 
amateur's  garden,  with  no  larger   flowers   than 
our  common  Meadow  Safirons,  though  it  could 
still  be  distinguished  by  its  relatively  broader  and 
blunt  segments.     The  large  leaves  of  most  of  the 
Meadow  Saffrons  make  it  necessary  to  grow  the 
plants  in  the  open  garden  to  get  the  best  results. 
C.    luteum,    C.    crociflorum,    C.   montanum,    C. 
libanoticum  and  C.  hydrophyllum,  having  smaller 
leaves,  are  more  suitable  for  pot  culture. — J.  F. 
The  colour  chart.— The  idea  of  a  colour 
chart  is  excellent,  but  to  make  it  of  any  use  the 
colour  nomenclature  must  be  adopted   by   the 
florists  and  seedsmen  of  the  whole  world.     It 
also  seems  to  me  that  a  great  many  shades  must 
be    comprised    in    that    devised    by   the   Royal 
I  Horticultural  Society  that  are  of  little  use  to 


November  13,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


551 


horticulturists,  however  much  they  may  appeal  to 
the  designers  of  feminine  attire.  A  dozen  shades  of 
each  of  the  primary  colours,  with  a  few  neutral  and 
compound  tints,  a  quarter  or  less  of  those  provided 
in  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  chart,  would 
amply  suffice  for  the  most  elaborate  garden 
colour  scheme,  and  might  also  be  issued  at  a 
price  more  suitable  to  owners  of  small  gardens — 


THE  NEW   DWARF   I'OLTANTHA   ROSE  JKSSIE. 

the  ones  who  suffer  most  by  the  somewhat  mis- 
leading colour  nomenclature  indulged  in  by 
nurserymen,  whose  blues  and  pinks,  at  all  events, 
are  apt  to  turn  out  dingy  lavenders  and  mauves. 
Now  that  colour  schemes  are  so  general,  a 
uniform  method  of  nomenclature  is  desirable,  but 
it  must  be  one  that  is  clear  and  easily  under- 
stood, and  must  command  the  acceptance  of 
every  respectable  grower. — M.  Paul. 

Delphinium  Beauty  of  Langpopt. 
I  am  sending  you  a  photograph  of  one  of  Messrs. 
Kelway's  beautiful  Delphiniums,  viz.,  Beauty  of 
Langport,  growing  in  the  gardens  here.  It  was 
planted  with  D.  Primrose  three  years  ago,  and 
both  have  made  vigorous  growth  and  proved  per- 
fectly hardy  and  most  welcome  additions  to  this 
diss  of  beautiful  plants.— A.  C.  Humphrey, 
Healing  Manor  Gardens,  lAjicolnshire. 

Rodgepsia  plnnata.— The  notes  upon 
this  plant  on  page  531  are  extremely  interesting 
and  instructive,  in  view  of  the  fact  that  this 
genera  is  becoming  more  generally  represented 
m  gardens.  The  oldest  species,  R.  podophylla, 
is  in  one  respect  still  without  a  peer,  that  is,  in 
80  far  as  the  leaf  colouring  is  concerned.  The 
beauty  of  R.  pinnata  when  in  flower,  so  faith- 
fully portrayed  in  the  illustration,  will  at  once 
appeal  to  anyone  who  has  given  more  than  a 
cursory  glance  to  the  Kew  plants  ;  in  this  East 
Coast  garden,  however,  it  never  develops  any- 
thing of  the  rich  colour  so  characteristic  of  the 
older  species,  which  is  planted  in  sodden  bog- 
beds  composed  of  loam  largely  impregnated  with 
lime.  R.  podophylla  develops  leaves  of  enormous 
size,  and  quite  early  in  July  the  purple  crimson 
colour  suffuses  the  leaves,  remaining  constant  till 
autumn,  when  they  ripen  off,  exhibiting  at  that 
season  the  brightest  leaf  colouring  to  be  found 
among  herbaceous  plants.  The  clumps  are 
afforded  ample  shelter  and  the  fullest  exposure 
to  sun,    so   that   everything    favours    luxuriant 


growth  and  rich  colours  in  the  leaves.  — Thomas 
Smith,  Walmsgate  Gardens,  Lonth. 

Ranunculus  Lyallil.— I  beg  to  enclose 
with  this  note  an  illustration  of  the  Mountain 
Lily  (Ranunculus  Lyallii),  cut  out  of  the  New 
Zealand  Christmas  Number  of  the  Weekly  Press, 
which  I  hope  will  interest  you  and  numerous 
readers  of  The  Garden.  It  is  described  as  one 
of  the  finest  of  New  Zealand's  sub-alpines  and 
that  it  grows  in  great  profusion.  I  have  reason 
to  believe  that  it  is  not  very  common  in  Great 
Britain,  as  I  have  failed  to  find  it  in  any 
catalogues  of  our  leading  nurserymen.  Nicholson 
describes  this  Ranunculus  as  the  "New  Zealand 
Water  Lily.  Flowers  waxy  white,  4  inches  in 
diameter,  spring  and  summer,  height  2  feet  to 
4  feet.  New  Zealand,  1879.  A  very  handsome 
and  erect  cool  greenhouse  plant."  I  should  be 
greatly  interested  to  read  the  opinions  of  some  of 
your  Colonial  correspondents  on  this  interesting 
plant. — J.  E.  Da  VIES,  Talygarn,  South  Wales. 
[The  illustration  sent  by  our  correspondent  was 
a  cutting  from  the  journal  mentioned,  and  was 
not,  of  course,  suitable  for  reproduction. — Ed.]. 

Rose  Jessie. — This  is  a  Rose  destined  to 
become  very  popular  either  for  pots,  for 
bedding  or  for  massing.  The  flower  is  of  quite 
a  new  colour  in  this  section,  being  a  bright 
glowing  cherry  crimson,  without  a  suspicion  of 
the  dull  purple  tints  of  other  kinds  of  this  class. 
The  foliage  and  growth  are  similar  to  the  parent, 
Phyllis  ;  it  grows  robustly  to  a  height  of  about 
2i  feet  in  the  open,  and  is  continually  sending  up 
fresh  growths  and  developing  flower-clusters,  so 
flowers  are  to  be  seen  on  the  plant  from  .June 
to  October,  and,  if  weather  permits,  right  into 
December.  As  a  pot  plant  too  much  cannot 
be  said  for  it.  Wherever  it  has  been  exhibited 
this  season  it  has  gained  much  admiration.  The 
sturdy  bushy  growth  makes  it  an  ideal  pot  plant, 
the  colour  of  the  flowers  being  most  attractive 
and  the  foliage  a  bright  glossy  green.  The 
advent  of  this  charming  little  gem  was  opportune, 
for  many  have  planted  the  so  called  Baby 
Rambler,  Mme.  Norbert  Levavasseur,  and  have 
been  disappointed  with  it.  Not  but  that  it  has 
its  merits,  for  as  a  forced  plant  it  is  very  fine  ; 
but  outdoors  the  colour  is  bluish,  and  no  one 
cares  for  this  shade.  Now  in  Jessie  we  have  a 
brilliant  colour — a  real  glowing  cherry  crimson — 
which  does  not  fade.  The  large  clusters  are 
produced  very  freely  on  a  dwarf  plant  that 
never  exceeds  2 J  feet  in  height,  so  that  it  must 
be  an  ideal  plant  for  massing,  edging  or  pots. 
If  planted  about  15  inches  apart  and  out  down 
to  the  ground  each  spring,  this  Rose  would  make 
a  formidable  rival  to  any  bedding  Geranium,  and, 
of  course,  it  would  be  durable.  It  is  for  this 
reason  so  many  individuals  are  using  Roses  as 
bedding  plants,  and  surely  nothing  can  be  more 
beautiful.  Jessie  is  a  sport  from  Phyllis,  the 
beautiful  Polyantha  Rose  distributed  a  year  or 
two  ago  by  the  same  raisers,  Messrs.  H.  Merry- 
weather  and  Sons,  Southwell,  and  therefore  it 
partakes  of  the  same  characteristics  in  all  save 
colour.  Strangely,  Phyllis  sported  in  Ireland, 
but  the  sport  was  not  nearly  so  bright  in  colour 
as  Jessie.  Our  gardens  could  be  made  most  bright 
even  were  we  to  use  these  lovely  Polyantha 
Roses  only,  for  they  are  as  ceaseless  in  their 
flowering  as  the  Monthly  Roses  and  contain  a 
most  varied  assortment  of  colour. — P. 

National    Sweet     Pea    Society's 

classification  lists.— It  is  with  special 
interest  I  have  read  these  lists  as  published  in 
The  Gakden  recently,  and  note  the  effort  made 
to  purify  seed  lists  so  far  as  to  make  plain  how 
great  is  the  number  of  varieties  in  commerce 
which  are  in  their  respective  sections  too  much 
alike.  That  is  almost  stating  that  they  are  really 
alike.  Bat  while  the  publication  of  such  lists 
will,  no  doubt,  materially  affect  the  selections 
made  for  next  year's  sowing,  greatly  to  the 
detriment  of  many  still  good  varieties,  the  point 
needing  explanation  is  this :  Does  the  variety 
heading  each  sectional  list  signify  that  it  is 
held   to  be  the  best,  or  may  it  be  assumed  that 


all  named  in  each  colour  list  are  equally  good  ? 
Were  the  selected  varieties  so  placed  accidentally 
or  purposely  alphabetically,  so  as  to  avoid  any 
possible  depreciation  ?  It  is  very  obvious  that 
if,  for  instance,  nine  varieties  be  classed  as 
carmine,  then  intending  growers  of  some  of  them 
would  be  helped  by  such  selection  of,  say,  two 
of  the  very  best  in  each  case.  The  society  may 
not  care  to  take  so  great  a  responsibility,  but 
some  grower  having  a  free  hand  may  not  be  so 
trammelled.  Then,  is  it  to  be  assumed  that  the 
thirty-five  varieties  excluded  from  all  future 
trials  are  to  be  regarded  as  equally  undesirable 
for  exhibition  or  for  further  growth  ?  If  that  be 
so,  it  may  become  rather  hard  on  growers  who 
may  have  seed  stocks  of  these  on  hand.  Will 
they  cheerfully  accept  the  society's  dictum  and 
withdraw  these  varieties  from  commerce  abso- 
lutely ?  That  there  are  in  commerce  by  far  too 
many  of  these  Sweet  Peas  is  absolutely  certain, 
and  it  must  be  somewhat  painful  work  for  the 
society  to  have  thus  soon  to  place  on  the  list  of 
varieties  not  required  so  many  to  which  but  a  few 
years  ago  its  certificates  of  merit  were  granted. 
The  moral  of  this  fact  will  be  lost  if  the  society 
does  not  make  its  certificates  very  hard  to  obtain 
in  the  future.  The  lists  convey  no  information 
as  to  which  varieties  may  be  relied  upon  to  come 
absolutely  true.  All  who  purchase  seed  would 
like  to  know  this.  One  firm  whose  list  I  have 
professes  to  have  described  all  flower  colours  with 
the  aid  of  an  International  colour  chart,  but  the 
descriptions  in  many  cases  differ  widely  from 
those  of  the  society.  Could  not  some  complete 
unanimity  on  that  head  be  secured  ? — Lathtbus. 


THE     GREENHOUSE, 


THE    STOPPING    AND    TIMING 
OF    CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

IN  reply  to  the  enquiry  made  by  "  H.  B. " 
asking  when  to  stop  the  following  Chry- 
santhemums and  the  kind  of  bud  to  select, 
we  are  pleased  to  give  particulars  respect- 
ing each  variety  in  detail  In  this  way 
the  information,  which  is  of  special 
interest  to  Chrysanthemum  cultivators,  will  be 
taken  advantage  of  by  others,  and  the  difficulties 


A  NOBLE  PLANT  :  DELPHINIUM  BEAUTY  OF 
LANGPORT. 


552 


THE     GARDEN. 


[November  13,  1909. 


of  growing  large,  handsome  exhibition  blooms 
lessened.  So  far  North  as  Lancashire  it  is 
necessary  to  begin  operations  quite  ten  days  to 
a  fortnight  earlier  than  is  necessary  for  growers 
in  the  South,  as  the  difference  in  climate  is 
considerable  and  the  seasons  vary  to  the  extent 
represented  by  the  number  of  days  above  men- 
tioned. As  "  H.  B."  rightly  says,  the  district  in 
Lancashire  where  his  garden  is  situated  is  "  very 
cold  and  bleak."  This  is  sufficient  to  justify  us 
in  recommending  the  stopping  or  pinching  of  the 
growths  of  the  plants  about  a  fortnight  earlier 
than  is  usual  in  the  South  of  England.  This 
system  of  stopping  the  Chrysanthemums  is  only 
necessary  in  the  case  of  plants  intended  for  exhi- 
bition, where  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that 
the  blooms  shall  be  at  their  best  within  a  given 
period — generally  in  the  early  days  of  November. 
The  dates  recommended  for  stopping  the  plants 
in  the  undermentioned  table  are  for  Southern 
growers,  so  that  growers  in  the  Midlands  should 
begin  operations  a  week  or  so  earlier,  and  in 
Lancashire  and  further  North  fully  ten  days  to 
a  fortnight  earlier.  In  Scotland  an  even  earlier 
period  of  stopping  the  plants  is  most  desirable. 
Japanese. 


w 


When  to  Stop  the 
Plants. 
First  week  June    , . 
Third  week  March 
Mid-April 
Third  week  March 
Last  week  March  . . 


Name  of  Variety. 

Miss  Elsie  Fulton 

Simplicity 

J.  H.  Silsbury     . . 

Mary  Inglia 

Kayonnaute 

Chcltoni 

Mafeking  Hero   . . 
Marquis  Venosta 
Lady  Conyers 
Miss  Stopford     . . 
N.C.S.  Jubilee     .. 
Mrs.  Geo.  Mileham 
Mrs.  Greenrteld  . . 
Mrs.  F.  W.  Vallis 
F.  S.  Vallis 

Bessie  Godfrey   . . 
Chry.  Montigny . . 

Heni-y  Perkins    . . 

Mrs.  C.  Beckett . . 

Valerie  Greenhara 

Mrs.  W.  Knox    . . 

Mrs.  Eric  Croasley 

George  Laurence 

Mrs.  R,.  H.  Pearson 

Reginald  Vallis . . 

Leigh  Park  Rival 

Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller 

E.  J.  Brooks 

Magnificent 

Norman  Davis 

Mme.  G.  Rivol    . . 

Walter  Jinks 

Viola 

Leigh  Park  Wonder 

Mrs.  Walter  Jinka 

Mrs.  N.  Davis 

Algernon  Cavis  . . 

Dennis  Kirby 

Godfrey's  Eclipse 

\\.  Beadle 

Emily  Towers 

Rose  Pockett 

Mrs.  G.  F.  Costei' 

Xorfolk  Blush    .. 

Thomas  Stevenson 

Pockett's  Surprise 

Glitter 

Lady  Smith  of  Treliske 

Jos.  Stoney 

Splendour 

Dorothy  Gouldsmith    . 

F.  W.  Lever 

Mrs.  Guy  Paget    . 

Incurved  Varilties. 
Mrs.  Barnard  Hankey  . .     Third  week  March 
Charles  H.  Curtis 
Mme.  Ed.  Roger 
Mme.  Ferlat 
Buttercup 
W.  Pascoe 
Mrs.  F.  Ashworth 
Mrs.  G.  Denyer  . . 
Souvenir  de  W.  Clibrau 


Which  Buds 
to  Secure. 
let  crown 
2nd  cro\vn 


Third  week  March 
Mid-April 
Third  week  March 
Third  week  May    . . 
Third  week  March 
End  May 
First  week  June 
First  week  April 
Last  week  May 
End  May 
Early  May    . . 
First  week  April    . . 

Last  week  March  . . 
Mid- April     . . 
End  March  . . 
Last  week  May 
Mid- April     .. 
Third  week  March 
Early  April  . . 
Eud  March  . . 
Early  April  . . 
'I'hird  week  March 
Late  March  , . 
Second  week  April 
Third  week  March 
Third  week  May 
Third  week  March 
Early  May    . . 
Third  week  March 
Lite  March  . . 
Third  week  March 
Third  week  May 
Late  March  . . 
Tolrd  week  May 
Ihird  week  March 
Late  March  . . 
Early  May 
Third  week  May 
Early  April  . . 

Late  April    . . 
Mid-April 
Late  March  . . 
Third  week  May 
First  week  April 
Third  week  May 


1st  crown 
2nd  crown 
Ist  crown 

2nd  crown 
l8t  crown 


Ist  crowD 
2nd  crown 


1st  crown 
2nd  crown 
Ist  crown 
2nd  crown 
l8t  crown 
2 ad  crown 


l8t  L-rown 
2Qd  crown 
Ist  crown 
2Qd  crown 

1st  crown 

2nd  crown 

1st  crown 
2  ad  crown 

Ist  crown 
2nd  crown 
1st  crown 


2od  crown 
Ist  crown 
2nd  crown 


Third  week  May 
Third  week  March 
Mid-March  ..         .,  ,, 

Third  week  May    . .    let  crown 
Early  May    ..        ..  „ 

Late  April 

Third  week  April  . .     2nd  crown 
First  week  April    ..  ,, 

Although  you  are  disappointed  with  the  results 
of  the  present  season,  you  should  remember  the 
abnormal  weather  experienced  from  the  earliest 
days  of  summer  onwards.  The  cool  and  moist 
conditions  that  have  prevailed  almost  con- 
tinuously from  the  period  above  mentioned  are 
responsible  for  the  late  development  of  the  buds. 
The  Chrysanthemum  season  is  fully  two  weeks 
later  than  usual. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

ON  PLANTS  FOR  THE  WALLS  OF 
HOUSES  POSSESSING  ARCHI- 
TECTURAL   MERIT. 

HEN  a  building  presents  any 
good  architectural  features  it 
is  essential  that  these  should 
not  be  in  any  way  interfered 
with  by  a  covering  that  obscures 
the  details  or  breaks  the  lines. 
This  is  almost  sure  to  be  the  case  if  coarse- 
growing  creepers  such  as  Ivy  and  Ampelopsis  are 
planted  against  it,  because  it  means  very 
intelligent  and  very  constant  cutting  and  trim- 
ming to  keep  them  within  the  spaces  which  may, 
without  detriment  to  the  general  appearance  of 
the  building,  be  allotted  to  them.  Half  a  year's 
neglect  is  enough  to  enable  them  to  trespass  far 
beyond  these  limits,  and  to  allow  an  ordinary 
garden  labourer  to  trim  them  will  result  in  hard, 
straight  edges,  which  will  confuse  the  archi- 
tectural lines  and  mar  the  composition. 

Wall  shrubs  and  climbing  plants  capable  of 
orderly  training  and  submissive  to  drastic  pruning 
are  preferable  in  such  cases  to  creepers.     Some 
of  these  should   be  evergreen,   and    nothing  is 
better  among  those  that  are  thoroughly  hardy 
than  Crata?gu8  Pyraoantha  Lelandii.      It  is  a 
free  grower,  of  which  the  branches  can  be  trained 
in  any  direction  and  superflvous  ones  removed. 
It  is  always  cheerful.      The    white   flowers  of 
summer  and  the  red  berries  of  autumn  and  winter 
vary  its  appearance  and  add  to  its  beauty.     Azara 
miorophylla  is   much  hardier  than  is  generally 
believed.      In  the  South  and  West  of  England  it 
will  pass  through  a  hard  winter  unscathed  when 
planted  in  the  open  and  exposed  to  north  and 
east  winds.     In  the  Midlands  it  is  quite  safe 
against  a  wall.      Its  boughs  cannot  be  so  exactly 
trained  and  trimmed  as  those  of  the  Cratasgus, 
but  superfluous  ones   may  be   readily  removed, 
and  the  thin  growth  of  small  leaves  never  makes  it 
adenseplant.  Where  they  will  flourish  Myrtlesand 
Magnolia  grandiflora  are  excellent.    But  they  are 
less  orderly  and  more  dense ;  so  let  not  the  knife  be 
spared  when  they  begin  to  trespass.      As  regards 
deciduous  plants,  there  is  nothing  better  than  the 
Wistaria,   for  the  closer  it  is  pruned   back  the 
better  will  be  the  efiect.     An  old  plant  yearly 
out  back  to  the  main  stems  will  throw  out  perfect 
cascades  of  bloom  at  intervals,  and  these  will  be 
followed  by  leafy  shoots  which  will  not  be  too  long 
or  too  dense  until  quite  the  autumn,  and  which 
will  be  out  away   in  the  succeeding    pruning. 
Vines  treated  in  the  same  way  and  kept  well  in 
band  have  an   excellent  effect.     Straight  hori- 
zontal lines  of  leafage,  not  touching  or  even  very 
close     to     each     other,     should     be    obtained. 
As    to    Roses,    the    Rambler  class  does  better 
on   trellises  and   poles   away   from    the    house. 
But  some  of  the  Teas,  and  notably  the  climbing 
varieties  of  Caroline  Testout,  Belle  Siebrecht  and 
Papa    Gontier,   are    excellent    against    a    stone 
house.     They  are  strong  and   healthy  growers, 
and  can  be  pruned  resolutely  back  every  spring 
and  only  sufficient  new,   clean,   vigorous   wood 
allowed.       Among    climbers,     Akebia    quinata, 
Berberidopsis  ccrallina,  Tecoma  radicans  grandi- 
flora and  Stauntonia  hexaphylla  are  not  likely  to 
become  disorderly  or  overwhelming,  and  will  not, 
everywhere,    even    succeed.     Deciduous   shrubs 
like  Chimonanthus  fragrans  and  Cydonia  japonica 
can  easily  be  made  to  grow  1.5  feet  high  m  time, 
and  with  a  little  pruning  and  training  be  made 
to  keep  their  place.    So  can  such  climbing  plants 
as    Jessamines,    Honeysuckles    and    Clematises. 
But  train  them  ;  and  this  must  be  done  not  with 
shears,  but  by  catting  out  a  great  amount  of  old 
wood  every  year  from  the  ground  and  keeping 
only  recent  growths,  or  stools.     These  will  break 
into  growths,  and  will  produce  a  sparse  and  semi- 
veiling  dressing  of  foliage  which  should  never  be 
allowed  to  encroach  on  the  detailed  portions  of 
the  building.  Country  L'-fe  (November  6). 


TH  E    ROSE    GARDEN. 


NOTES   ON   NEWER   ROSES.— VIII. 

Hybrid  Te.\s. 

(  Continued  from  page  ■543. )  ' 

ADY    FAIRE  (Bradley,    1907).— This  has 

been  so  largely   shown  and,   I    may 

add,  so  well  shown  under  its  synonym, 

Joseph   Lowe,   that  the  second  title 

threatens      to      become      the      more 

popular.     It    is    apparently    another 

instance  of  the  same  sport  occurring  in   more 

than  one  place  at  the  same  time.     This  raises 

a     very     interesting     question    that,    correctly 

answered,    might    throw    some    light    on    the 

unanswered  query  :    What  causes  a  sport  ?     But 

that  cannot  be  discussed  here.     I  believe  it  has 

never  been  scientifically  explained — that  is   to 

say,  science  can  give  no  satisfactory  explanation — 

eo  it  is  no  use  for  a  layman  to  try  his  hand  at  it. 

I  have  grown  the  two  Roses,  Lady  Faire  and 

Joseph  Lowe,  side  by  side,  and  as  far  as  I  can  see 

they  are  identical.      It  is  not  a  case  where  a 

decision  as  to  which  name  it  shall  in  future  bear 

would  mete  out  justice  with  equal  hand  to  both 

parties,  and  so  the  Rose  must  bear  both  names. 

A  sport  from   Mrs.    W.    J.    Grant,   with   some 

resemblance    to    the  colouring    of    Mme.    Abel 

Chatenay,   but  without    the  salmon    tint    that 

distinguishes  that  beautiful  Rose,  it,  as  might 

have    been   expected,   is  of    not    too  strong    a 

growth,  but  it  should  make  a  good  bedding  Rose 

for  all  that.     We  are  not  likel3'  to  see  it  often  on 

the  exhibition  bench,  as  there  are  too  few  petals 

and  its  flowers  open  too  quickly,  but  a  cool  season 

will  find  it  represented.     A  beautiful  Rose  that 

will  become  popular  by  reason  of  its  colour  and 

fine  shape. 

Lad/y  Helen  Vincejit  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
1907). — One  may  say  at  once  that  this  is  a 
beautiful  Rose  too,  but  only  the  ardent  exhibitor 
will  get  it  at  its  highest  phase  of  possible  beauty 
as  the  text-book  has  it.  It  requires  high 
cultivation,  and,  given  it,  will  produce  magnifi- 
cent-shaped flowers  of  a  beautiful  pale  blush  shell 
pink.  Very  fina  under  glass,  but  an  exhibitor's 
Rose  only. 

Lady  Ursula  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1908). — 
"This  is  a  real  good  Rose;  don't  you  makeany  mis- 
take about  it  !  "  to  use  words  that  are  frequently 
on  the  lips  of  a  well-known  trade  grower.  I  had  it 
in  my  mind  when  I  was  writing  of  G.  C.  Waud 
as  the  best  of  Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson's  1908  set. 
When  two  Roses  are  so  dissimilar  it  is  not  easy  to 
decide  between  their  respective  merits,  and  I 
should  not  feel  inclined  to  quarrel  with  anyone 
who  said  Lady  Ursula  was  a  better  Rose  than 
G.  C.  Waud.  It  lacks,  of  course,  the  distinctive 
colour  of  the  latter  Rose  ;  its  merit  lies  in  its 
shape  rather  than  in  its  colour,  but  it  has  many 
good  points.  It  is  an  excellent  grower,  has  fine 
foliage,  and  the  high-oentred  or  pointed  flowers 
are  freely  produced.  The  colour  is  a  bright,  clean 
shade  of  flesh  pink.  Lady  Ursula  will  be  most 
useful  to  exhibitors,  and  it  is,  from  my  short 
experience  of  it,  an  excellent  garden  Rose  too,  with 
fragrance  that  shows  its  Tea  parentage.  Messrs. 
Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons  need  fear  no  rivals  while 
they  can  continue  to  send  us  out  such  Roses  as 
Lady  Ursula. 

Lauren!  Carle  (Pernet-Ducher,  '  1907).— This 
Rose  is  a  fine  colour,  of  a  distinct  deep  carmine 
shade  that  should  make  a  good  bedding 
Rose.  It  has  not  come  quite  so  large  with  me  as 
I  should  like  to  have  seen  it,  and  its  usefulness 
for  the  exhibition  will  not,  I  think,  be  great ;  but 
there  is  plenty  of  time  for  that  side  to  be  de- 
veloped. It  is  a  good  grower,  of  good  habit  ; 
long  buds  borne  singly  on  stems  of  useful  length, 
fully  and  continuously  produced,  which  open  Well. 
Lyon  Rose  (Pernet-Ducher,  1907). — A  Rose 
that  is  going  to  find  its  way  into  every  garden 
and  which  will  probably  be  found  written  on  nearly 
every  order  that  reaches  the  nurseryman  this 
autumn,  and  that,  unless  ordered  at  once,  will  not 


November  13,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


553 


be  supplied — at  any  rate,  from  the  home-grown 
Koses.  It  is  the  sensational  Rose  of  the  period 
under  review  ;  it  came  to  us  with  a  big  reputa- 
tion, and,  what  is  rather  unusual,  deserved  it. 
The  flowers  that  have  been  produced  on  the  small 
imported  rooted  cuttings  that  the  trade 
endeavoured  to  supply  the 
demand  with  last  year  can 
give  one  no  idea  of  its  value 
when  grown  naturally — I 
mean  from  outdoor  propa- 
gated plants.  Messrs. 
Stuart  Low  and  Co.  of 
Bush  Hill  Park  have  the 
largest  outdoor-grown  stock 
of  It  that  I  have  seen  any- 
where this  year,  and  their 
rows  of  it  as  seen  growing 
were  a  picture.  It  is  noi, 
quite  an  ideal  bedding 
Kose,  as  its  growth  is  best 
described  as  awkward  ;  but 
if  that  is  overlooked,  and  it 
is  quite  possible  that  it 
will  improve  in  this  respect, 
then  no  Rose  garden  worthy 
of  the  name  will  be  com- 
plete without  it.  So  much 
has  been  written  in  your 
columns  and  the  Press 
generally  of  the  wonderful 
colour  that  I  will  say  little 
about  it.  The  general  de- 
scription of  shrimp  pink 
and  coral  rtd  centre  does 
not  satisfy  me,  and  is  hardly 
accurate ;  but  it  is  so 
variable,  varying  from  the 
pink  of  Caroline  Testout  to 
the  pinkish  yellow  of  Paul 
Ledo,  that  an  accurate 
description  would  be  hard 
to  evolve.  All  I  can  say  to 
your  readers  is,  "  Order  it, 
and  be  sharp  about  it,"  as 
it  will  share  with  Mme. 
Melanie  Soupert  the  honour 
of  being  the  most  sought- 
after  Rose  of  the  year— 
among  the  newer  Roses, 
that  IS.  I  suppose  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay  would  fill 
the  first  place  among  the 
older  Roses. 
Purity.   H.  E.  Molynedx. 

(To  be  continued.) 


and    it  certainly  is 
successful  hybridist. 


triumph    for    this   most  j  in  its  flowering,  producing   its  blooms  in  twos 
To  have  beds  of  Roses  of    and  threes.  It  cannot  fail  to  make  a  most  effective 


such  a  colour  as  this  in  mid-October  will  give  a 
wonderful  brightness  to  our  autumnal  displays. 
The  bloom  is  not  too  full,  so  that  it  opens  freely 
in  all  weathers,  and  the  buds  are  prettily  splashed 


A     NEW     GOLDEN 
BEDDING   ROSE 

Thbough  the  courtesy  of 
my  friend  M.  Pernet- 
Duoher  I  was  able  to 
inspect  some  blooms  of  his 
marvellous  new  golden  Rose 
Rayon  d'Or.  Instead  of 
being  a  golden  ray  it  is  a 
veritable  flood  of  gold,  and 
will  supply  a  long-felt  want 
to  those  who  employ  the 
delightful  Hybrid  Teas  for 
bedding  purposes.  On  open- 
ing the  box  of  blooms  the 
first  exclamation  was 
"  What  a  glorious  colour  !  " 
I  at  once  compared  Rayon 
d'Or  to  that  rich  golden, 
erratic  variety  Georges 
Schwartz,  but  found  this 
latter  of  quite  a  pale  prim- 
rose yellow,  sodifferent  to  its  summercolour.  There 
was  no  Rose  in  my  large  collection  of  such  a  rich, 
deep  pure  yellow.  It  reminded  me  of  Mar^chal 
Niel  and  Persian  Yellow,  or  what  might  be  termed 
yellow  Broom  colour.  M.  Pemet-Buoher  informs 
nje  jt  is  another  of  tihe  Rosa  pernetiana  hybrids, 


bedder.     The  beautiful  dark  olive  green  foliage 
is  absolutely  immune  from  attacks  of  mildew — 
this  in  itself  a  glorious  boon — and  it  also  has  a 
sweet  fragrance.      My  only  regret   is   that    we 
cannot  possess  Rayon  d'Or 
until  the  autumn  of  1910, 
for  it  is  certainly  the  long- 
desired  true  yellow  bedding 
Rose.  P. 


GNATON  HALL 
GARDENS, 
PLYMOUTH. 


R 


THE  NEW   PENTSTBMON   MTDDELTON  GEM.     (Slijhtly  reduced.     Se:  page  .5.54) 

with  red  on  the  outer  petals.  One  can  perceive 
its  relationship  to  Soleil  d'Or  or  its  offspring  in 
the  tiny  hairy  prickles  on  the  flower-stalk,  so 
distinct  in  the  Lyon  Rose. 

The  growth  is  good,  of  dwarf  habit,  in  the  way 
of  Le  Progres,  and  being  so  free  and  continuous 


ECENTLY  I  had 
the  pleasure  of 
visiting     the 
charming    gar- 
den    of     Mr. 
Charles   Bewes 
at  Yealmpton,  South  Devon, 
and  think  this  must  be  one 
of     the     moat     interesting 
gardens    in    the    West    of 
England.     The  situation  is 
an     ideal     one,     with     the 
Yealm,   with  its  wide  ex- 
panse and  lovely  banks,  in 
the  foreground,  and  in  the 
distance  the  silvery  sea  and 
cliffs,  with   the  Eddystone 
Lighthouse    and  Plymouth 
some  nine  or  ten  miles  in 
the    distance.      The  estate 
has  not  been  in  Mr.  Bewes's 
possession    many    years, 
having  previously  been  one 
of  the  seats  of  the  Williams 
family. 

During  the  past  few  yeans 
much  has  been  done  to  the 
gardens  in  the  way  of 
additions,  notably  the  rook 
gardens,  and  with  such  an 
ideal  situation  the  work  has 
produced  a  most  pleasing 
result,  care  in  every  case 
being  taken  to  follow  the 
natural  formations.  I 
should  add  that  the  earlier 
work  in  the  laying-out  and 
formation  of  the  rock  gar- 
dens was  ably  carried  out 
by  the  late  Mr.  Meyer  of 
Messrs.  Veitoh's,  Exeter, 
and  the  choice  trees  and 
lovely  vistas  testify  to  the 
splendid  work  of  this  well- 
known  West  of  England 
firm,  and  also  in  a  great 
measure  to  the  interest 
taken  in  horticulture  by 
the  present  owner  of  the 
estate.  Mr.  Bewes  may  be 
termed  an  enthusiast  in  all 
matteis  concerning  the 
garden,  and  he  is  ably 
supported  by  his  gardener, 
Mr.  E.  C.  Pooley,  who  may 
be  classed  as  an  ardent  lover 
of  all  pertaining  to  the 
hardy  flowers  and  the  out- 
door garden.  At  the  same 
time,  other  important  parts 
of  the  garden  receive  ample 
attention,  fruit  and  vege- 
tables being  special  features  at  Gnaton.  The 
hall  has  on  one  side  an  elegant  chapel,  which 
is  dedicated  to  St.  Mary  and  adjoins  the 
house  ;  and  here  was  growing  on  the  southern 
side  splendid  plants  of  Lapageria,  both  white 
and  rose  coloured,  these  flowering  profusely  and 


554 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  13,  1909. 


without  protection.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
mansion  is  the  conservatory,  and  here  was  seen 
much  taste  in  the  grouping  of  the  various  plants, 
very  little  staging  of  any  kind  being  employed. 
The  terrace  steps,  which  are  most  ornamental, 
were  flanked  with  huge  vases  of  Ivy  Pelar- 
goniums that  were  a  mass  of  blossom,  these  steps 
leading  to  small  and  large  tennis  ana  croquet 
lawns  and  the  flower  garden.  The  latter  had 
some  large  and  very  fine  beds  of  tuberous 
Begonias,  and  these  were  mostly  self-coloured, 
the  effect  of  either  the  upper  or  the  lower  part  of 
the  garden  being  very  striking.  Other  beds  com- 
prised large  breadths  of  early  flowering  Chry- 
santhemums, and  these  in  distinct  colours  were 
most  eff'eotive. 

I  have  referred  to  the  trees  and  shrubs.  Of 
the  latter  Mr.  Bewes  has  recently  planted  a 
sheltered  south  border  with  the  most  recently 
introduced  plants,  and  with  a  good  belt  of  large 
trees  to  protect  them  from  cutting  winds  these 
should  in  a  few  years  form  a  most  interesting 
collection.  Some  of  the  Chinese 
tender  subjects  will,  I  fear, 
need  a  little  extra  shelter  in 
the  winter ;  but  so  many  plants 
are  at  home  iu  the  Gnaton 
Gardens  that  fail  in  the  Mid- 
lands. Of  ordinary  trees  there 
are  some  fine  examples  of 
Beech,  Elm  and  other  kinds  ; 
but  what  most  interests  the 
visitor  are  the  wonderful  groups 
of  Hollies  and  some  very  fine 
specimens  of  Evergreen  Oak  in 
variety.  Of  the  conifer  section 
a  magnificent  Araucaria  Cun- 
ningham! is  a  very  fine  tree 
30  feet  high.  There  are  also 
fine  trees  of  Abies  glauca, 
Thujopsis  dolabrata,  Cupressus 
maorocarpa  and  very  fine  trees 
of  Thuja  Lobbii,  Abies  Douglasi 
and  others.  The  shrubs  are 
equally  interesting,  and  the 
flowering  section  was  much  in 
evidence,  some  of  the  most 
interesting  being  Carpenteria 
californiea  and  the  beautiful 
Benthamia  fragifera.  Calliste- 
mon  salignus,  a  fine  piece  of 
Embothrium  cocoineum.  Acacia 
verticillata  and  Drimys  Winteri 
— a  fine  specimen  of  this  beau- 
tiful South  American  shrub — 
were  very  good.  Solanum  jas- 
minoides,  a  lovely  South  Ameri- 
can climber,  was  growing  freely 
on  a  warm  wall,  and  is  a  mass 
of  flowers  yearly.  S.  Wend- 
landii  is  also  quite  at  home, 
and  its  large,  lilac  blue  flowers 
and  pendulous  growths  were 
most  beautiful  at  the  time  of 
ray  visit.  The  beautiful  greenhouse  climber,  Ber- 
beridopsis  corallina,  on  a  south  wall  was  a  splendid 
object,  its  masses  of  coral  red,  drooping  racemes 
being  much  admired ;  it  grows  very  freely.  The 
less-known  .Jasminum  primulinum  and  Clematis 
montana  rubens  are  beautiful  wall  plants  and 
quite  at  home,  being  remarkably  healthy.  In 
addition  to  the  beautiful  wall  and  rock  gardens, 
much  space  is  devoted  to  hardy  border  plants 
and  annuals,  and  they  are  planted  in  bold  masses. 
Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca  is  largely  grown,  also 
Rehmaunia  angulata,  whidh  is  quite  hardy  and 
not  protected.  The  small  but  pretty  Biascia 
BarbersB,  with  its  rosy  pink  flowers,  is  very 
much  liked.  Salvias  in  variety  are  used  largely, 
such  as  8.  patens,  Fireball  and  Zurich.  Carnations, 
perpetual  and  border,  and  some  400  Chrysanthe- 
mums are  grown  in  pots  for  winter  decoration. 
The  fruit  and  vegetable  departments,  though 
mentioned  last,  are  by  no  means  least,  and 
occupy  considerable  space  and  are  well  done,  but 
space  does  not  permit  roe  to  note  the  best  things 
seen.  G.  Wythes. 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN. 

A    NEW    RACE    OF    BRANCHING 
TULIPS. 

THE  typical  Tulip  of  most  people  is  a 
plant  with  a  single,  unbranohed  stem 
and  one  flower.  As,  however,  we 
become  more  conversant  with  the 
family  as  a  whole  we  begin  to  realise 
that  there  are  a  very  considerable 
number  of  exceptions  to  the  rule,  for  both  among 
natural  species  and  garden  hybrids  we  find 
examples  with  branched  stems,  and  from  two  to 
five  flowers  on  each.  In  at  least  three  species, 
viz. ,  biflora,  dasystemon  and  prsestans  (erroneously 
called  suaveolens  by  Dr.  Regel),  the  normal 
plant  is  always  more  than  one-flowered.  The 
same  occurs  among  garden  hybrids.  Both  in 
Coronation  Scarlet  and  La  Tulipe  Noire  branching 
is  fairly  constant,  while  in  other  varieties,  such 
as  the  Darwin  Whistler,  it  is  only  occasionally 


now  an  accomplished  fact.  Some  twenty  years 
ago  he  found  in  an  old-fashioned  garden,  where 
Tulips  had  been  grown  for  a  long  time,  one  that 
regularly  bore  from  three  to  five  flowers  on  its 
main  stem,  and,  in  addition,  frequently  sent  up 
a  second  one  with  two  more.  He  acquired  the 
plant,  and  then  began  to  increase  it,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  cross  it  with  various  species  and 
garden  forms.  The  original  he  has  named  M. 
S.  Mottet,  and  it  was  exhibited  before  the 
National  Horticultural  Society  of  France  on 
April  22  last.  Some  cut  flowers  were  also  shown 
to  our  own  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  scientific 
committee  on  May  4. 

Some  of  the  plants  of  the  first  generation — F^, 
to  use  Mendelian  language — have  flowered.  He 
has  found  almost  all  of  them  to  be  many-flowered 
under  certain  conditions,  but  that  "  some  only 
preserve  the  character  with  constancy."  He  has 
now  in  his  possession  a  great  many  varieties,  and 
some  of  these  he  has  again  recrossed,  but  as  the 
young  plants  are  not  old  enough  to  bloom,  it  is 
impossible  to  say  what  the 
result  of  F2  will  be.  If,  as  M. 
Bony  hopes  and  expects,  the 
many-flowered  characteristic  is 
preserved,  it  is  hardly  too  much 
to  say  that  a  new  era  in  the 
Tulip  world  will  have  begun, 
and  possibilities  undreamed  of 
a  generation  ago  will  have 
come  into  being. 

From  the  illustration  the 
general  appearance  of  the  plant 
can  be  gathered.  Botanically 
considered  the  branching  is  due 
to  fasciation. 

I  have  planted  some  bulbs 
of  M.  S.  Mottet  in  pots  and 
some  in  the  open  ground  in 
order  to  give  it  a  good  trial. 
If  the  former  do  well  I  hope  to 
exhibit  them  next  spring  at 
Vincent  Square,  and,  with  the 
Editor's  permission,  to  write 
an  account  of  how  they  have 
done  and  how  they  look. 

Joseph  Jacob. 
[We  shall  welcome  such  par- 
ticulars    from     our    esteemed 
correspondent.  — Ed.  ] 


A   NEW  RACE   OF^TULIPS   WITH  BRANCHING   STEMS. 


OURISIA    COCCINEA. 

This  is  a  beautiful  plant  for  a 
moist  and  shady  position  in  the 
rock  garden,  its  scarlet  spikes 
of  flowers  being  very  efiective. 
It  is  a  native  of  Chili,  and 
blooms  in  July  and  August. 
Many  find  it  rather  difficult  to 
cultivate,  but  given  proper 
treatment  in  the  way  of  position 
and  soil  it  will  thrive  and  flower 

met  with.     In  this  connexion  it  is  of  interest  to   well.   Choose  a  moist  and  half-shady  place,  raised 

recall  an  article  in  the  Revue  Horticole  of  Paris    aboutl2inchesor  18inchesabovetheground-level. 

that  appeared  in  1882,  in  which  a  certain  amateur   This  plan  of  having  the  place  raised  allows  proper 

grower  claimed  to  have  produced  a  many-flowered   drainage,for,althoughiti8amoisture-lovingplant, 

type  that  would  remain  constant.      This,  how-    anything  in  the  way  of  stagnation  or  sourness  of 

ever,  was  probably  only  the  result  of  good  culti-    soil  means  failure.     I  have  found  that  the  most 

vation  and  the  use  of  particular  manures.    Hence   suitable  soil  for  its  requirements  is  a  mixture  of 

when  these  conditions  were  withdrawn  the  plants   peat  and    sharp  grit.      It   delights    in    having 

reverted  to  their  normal  one-flowered  condition.  !  plenty  of  stones  to  creep  over,  and  it  is  best 
In   the   same    number    (Revue    Horticole,    ler       ' 

Fivrier,   1882)  there  is  an  interesting  coloured 

plate  of  a  double  purple  Tulip  with  a  branched 

stem  and  five  flowers  which  was  found  in  a  garden 

near  Paris.     This  was  put  into  commerce  under 

the  name  Roi  des  Bleus,  so  its  branching  must 

have  been  constant.     I  am  unable  to  say  if  it  is 

still  in  existence,  but  the  fact  that  such  a  one 

was  found  is  peculiarly  interesting.      We  may 

regard  it  as  a  sort  of  solitary  forerunner  of  a  new 

race  of   many-flowered  Tulips   which  not  only 

would  remain  constant  in  themselves,  but  would 

be  able  to  transmit  this  characteristic  by  seed. 

Thanks  to  M.  Bony  of  Clermont-Ferrand  this  is 


when  planting  to  cover  all  intervening  spaces 
with  stones.  The  shoots  will  root  over  these  and 
then  find  their  way  all  over  the  bed. 

Oitaton  Oardens,  Plymouth.      E.  C.  Pooi.ev. 


PENTSTEMON  MYDDELTON  GEM. 
Those  who  know  the  beautiful  Pentstemons 
named  respectively  Newbury  Gem  and  South - 
gate  Gem  will  welcome  this  newcomer,  which  will 
complete  a  trio  of  beautiful  outdoor  flowers. 
The  plant  is  exceedingly  free-flowering,  grows 
some  2  feet  or  rather  more  high,  and  is  particularly 
graceful    in    appearance.     The    outside    of    the 


November  13,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


555 


flower  is  carmine  rose  colour,  this  hue  also 
forming  a  margin  to  the  inner  surface,  the 
throat  being  pure  white.  It  was  shown  by 
Messrs.  R.  Wallace  and  Co.,  Kilnfield  Gardens, 
Colchester,  before  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  on  September  28  last,  when  it  received 
an  award  of  merit. 


DESIGN  IN  GARDEN  PATHWAYS. 
A  PECtJiiiAB  virtue  attaches  to  a  stone-paved 
garden  in  that  it  is  accessible  at  all  seasons  and 
in  all  weathers.  Stone  differs  from  turf  in 
that  it  sheds,  rather  than  absorbs,  moisture, 
so  that  while  the  dew  is  yet  heavy  upon 
grass  one  may  pass  over  paved  walks  dry-shod. 
In  most  gardens  there  are  generally  positions 
which  lend  themselves  to  the  introduction  of 
stone-paved  ways.  Pergolas  and  terraces  are 
instances,  as  both  are  largely  frequented,  and  the 
former  often  fails  in  yielding  the  essential  con- 
ditions which  go  to  produce  good  turf ;  so  that 
the  stone  pathway  offers  the  happiest  and  most 
lasting  means  of  egress  to  this  part  of  the  garden. 
Terraces,  where  adjicent  to  or  leading  from  the 
mansion,  always  gain  in  effectiveness  and  comfort 
when  so  laid.  Then  in  gardens  of  a  formal  or 
geometrical  character  the  inclusion  of  a  stone- 
paved  area  gives  much  of  the  quaintness  and 
character  of  an  old-world  garden. 

The  happiest  ideas  in  the  use  of  stone  pathways 
are  often  contained  in  these  old  gardens.  One 
such  that  comes  to  memory  has  a  central  area 
occupied  by  an  oblong  tank  containing  water,  in 
which  a  selection  of  the  rarer  varieties  of  hardy 
Nymph^as  are  cultivated.  The  margin  of  the 
tank  is  formed  of  hewn  stone,  and  is  continued 
so  as  to  form  a  broad  pathway  around  the  water 
area.  Beyond  this  a  space  of  IS  feet  or  more  is 
laid  out  and  planted  as  a  mixed  border,  to  which 
a  background  is  provided  in  the  form  of  a  rough 
wooden  screen  lavishly  clothed  with  Rambler 
Roses.  The  border  which  constitutes  the  south 
side  has  a  luxuriant  growth  of  hardy  Ferns, 
among  which  are  planted  considerable  quantities 
of  early-flowering  hardy  bulbs.  Each  season  has, 
therefore,  something  to  awaken  interest — in 
spring,  bulbous  flowers  for  the  opening  year, 
succeeded  by  Nymphseas  to  bejewel  the  water's 
surface  during  summer  and  autumn,  while  the 
same  seasons  witness  the  stately  occupants  of  the 
borders  adding  their  wealth  of  gorgeous  colouring 
to  what  one  may  fittingly  regard  as  an  enchanted 
scene.  Between  the  borders  and  the  water  lies 
the  old  stone  pathway  with  its  quiet,  restful  tone 
of  neutral  grey,  on  the  one  hand  emphasising  the 
refined  character  of  the  Water  Lilies,  on  the 
other  disarming  what  is  harsh  or  discordant  in 
the  border. 

Even  in  quite  small  areas  there  are,  at  times, 
opportunities  where  the  judicious  use  of  paving- 
atone  will  largely  augment  the  interest  and  beauty 
of  the  garden.  Such  an  instance  occurs  in  the 
illustration,  where  a  small  terrace  in  a  retired 
part  of  the  garden  overlooks  a  small  formal  Lily 
tank,  the  terrace  being  laid  throughout  with 
Yorkshire  pavement.  Taking  advantage  of  the 
seclusion,  a  varied  selection  of  dwarf  perennial 
subjects  have  been  coaxed  into  establishing 
themselves  in  the  various  joints  and  fissures  of  the 
pathway  and  steps,  so  that  one  may  readily 
observe  not  only  their  luxuriance  of  growth,  but 
their  aptness  for  the  position,  as  if  such  were  in 
the  highest  sense  a  congenial  home  for  the 
plants.  Rock  plants  have  peculiar  merits  for 
this  form  of  planting,  and  even  the  commonest 
species  will  in  time  adapt  themselves  to  their 
niche  of  stonework  in  such  a  way  as  will  rarely 
fail  in  their  appeal  to  refined  tastes. 

The  primary  use  of  stone  paths  is  to  provide 
comfort  when  walking ;  but  the  true  gardener, 
seeking  new  spheres  of  conquest,  decks  them 
with  floral  treasures  and  thereby  invests  them 
with  an  added  mission,  so  that  they  become 
virtually  flowery  pathways  leading  to  other 
scenes  and  newer  interests.       Thomas  Smith. 

Walmagate,  Gardens,  Ltmth. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN 


P 


FRUIT    NOTES.  ' 

RUNING  APPLES  AND  PEARS.—  ' 
Those  who  plant  fruit  trees  must  not 
think  that  the  work  in  connexion 
with  them  commences  and  ends  with 
the  mere  act  of  placing  the  roots  j 
carefully  into  the  soil ;  as  a  matter  of 
fact,  the  really  intelligent  operations  are  then 
about  to  start,  and  it  is  entirely  upon  the 
manner  in  which  they  are  carried  out  that 
success  depends.  At  the  outset  trees  that  come 
from  the  many  reputable  nurserymen  of  the 
country  are  practically  certain  to  be  in  excellent 
condition  ;  the  earlier  steps  of  cutting  to  form  a 
satisfactory  foundation  will  have  been  taken,  and 
it  remains  with  the  purchaser  to  maintain  them 
in  a  perfect  state.  There  are  many  little  things 
that  will  demand  attention  from  time  to  time  ;  but 
the  operation  of  pruning,  which  has  to  be  done 
each  season,  is  of  outstanding  importance,  and  it  is 


their  fertility,  and  one  of  the  surest  aids  to  this 
is  to  permit  the  free  admission  of  light  to  all  the 
buds  in  the  centre  as  well  as  on  the  outer  growths. 
To  this  end  the  middle  of  the  tree  ought  always 
to  be  kept  open,  and  whenever  it  is  necessary  to 
reduce  a  shoot  in  length,  the  cut  should  invariably 
be  to  an  outer  wood-bud — that  is  to  say,  to  a 
flat,  pointed  bud  on  the  outer  side  of  the  stem — 
since  the  new  shoot  will  grow  in  the  direction  in 
which  the  bud  points.  Thus,  if  we  cut  to  a  bud 
on  the  inner  side  of  the  stem,  the  resultant  shoot 
will  grow  inwards  and  tend  to  fill  up  instead  of 
keep  open  the  middle  of  the  tree.  Much,  of 
course,  depends  upon  individual  circumstances, 
but,  generally  speaking,  all  the  principal  shoots 
should  stand  IS  inches  asunder,  so  as  to  allow  of 
the  perfect  development  of  the  leaves,  without 
which  it  is  impossible  to  secure  the  finest  crops 
of  fruits.  Where  the  growths  are  crowded,  they 
should  not  always  be  cut  back  a  portion  of  their 
length  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  usually  far  better 
practice  to  cut  them  clean  out  from  the  point  of 
origination.  As  a  rule,  the  bulk  of  the  crop  will  be 
carried  on  spurs  on  the  old  wood,  and  the  pruner 


PAVED  TERRACE   AND  STEPS   PLANTED   WITH   ALPINE  FLOWERS. 


impossible  for  too  much  thought  and  care  to  be 
devoted  to  it. 

The  Best  Time. — It  is  immaterial  what  form 
of  Apple  or  Pear  tree  may  be  demanding  attention, 
but  there  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  desirability 
of  completing  all  the  cutting  before  Christmas. 
One  would  not  go  so  far  as  to  assert  that  the 
work  may  not  be  successfully  done  long  after 
Christmas,  but  one  may  safely  say  that  we  get 
the  worst  of  the  winter  weather  in  the  first  and 
second  months  of  the  year,  and  pruning  trees  is 
essentially  not  one  of  those  tasks  that  one  cares 
to  do  when  the  rain  is  coming  down  in  torrents 
or  there  are  10°  to  20°  of  frost.  Indeed,  to  cut 
during  frosty  weather,  whenever  it  may  happen 
to  come,  is  an  error,  since  the  frost  may,  and 
probably  will,  get  into  the  heart  of  the  shoot, 
and  it  is  certain  that  trouble  will  follow  in  a 
very  short  period.  Apart  from  all  this,  the  cut- 
ting that  is  carried  out  in  November  and 
December  is  done  when  the  habits  of  the 
different  trees  are  fresh  in  the  mind  of  the 
worker,  and  the  natural  consequence  is  that 
the  operation  will  be  far  better  finished  off. 

The  Object  op  Pruning. — The  primary  object 
in  view  in  the  cutting  of  fruit  trees  is  to  increase 


should  cut  hard  back  to  these  in  the  winter  prun- 
ing. The  summer  cutting  or  pinching  makes  this 
operation  easier  ;  but  whether  recourse  is  had  to 
this  system  or  not,  the  winter  cutting  must  be 
close  back,  or  the  spurs  will  extend  to  such  a 
degree  that  the  results  will  never  be  satisfactory. 
It  is,  of  course,  always  desirable  to  allow  some 
extension  of  new  wood,  and  the  amount  must 
necessarily  depend  upon  circumstances.  When 
the  tree  is  being  formed  we  have  to  out  back  the 
new  shoots  by  one-half  or  two-thirds  of  their 
entire  length,  but  after  the  foundation  is 
perfectly  established  the  actual  length  will 
depend  upon  the  available  space  and  the  condi- 
tion of  the  tree.  In  any  case,  all  unripe  portions, 
as  judged  by  the  colour  of  the  bark,  must  be 
removed,  and  there  will  then  remain  anything 
from  3  inches  to  12  inches  of  new  wood,  accord- 
ing to  convenience.  In  all  cases  it  is  essential 
that  the  natural  habit  of  the  variety  shall  be 
considered,  as,  though  the  principles  are  the 
same,  there  are  deviations  from  them,  and 
it  is  those  who  study  the  different  varieties 
under  their  charge  that  achieve  the  greatest 
success  in  the  culture  of  these  valuable  hardy 
fruits.  FRUii-aEOWER. 


556 


THE     GARDEN. 


(November  13,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS, 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

VEGETABLE  GARDEN.  —  The 
principal  work  in  this  department 
now  will  consist  of  digging  and 
trenching  vacant  plots,  and  no 
ground  should  be  left  unturned  that 
can  be  got  at.  In  the  case  of  soil  of 
a  clayey  nature  this  autumn  working  is  par- 
ticularly bene6cial,  as  it  enables  fhe  frost  to 
thoroughly  pulverise  the  soil,  and  the  benefit  is 
experienced  the  whole  of  the  following  summer. 
It  is  essential  that  the  plot  be  left  as  rough  as 
possible,  and  on  very  wet  soil  ridges  1  foot  or 
more  high  may  be  made.  Where  such  pests  as 
wireworms,  leather-jackets  and  slugs  have  been 
troublesome,  the  ground  should  be  dressed  before 
digging  with  fresh  gas-lime,  or,  failing  this, 
Apterite,  a  substance!  have  found  very  effective 
indeed.  The  simple  directions  for  its  use  are 
supplied  by  the  vendors. 

Trees  and  Shrubs. — The  planting  season  is  now 
in  full  swing,  and  as  the  present  is  the  best  time 
of  the  whole  year,  no  opportunities  of  pushing 
the  work  forward  should  be  neglected.  All 
deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  move  well  now,  but 
evergreens  I  prefer  to  leave  until  the  spring,  as 
these  are  often  severely  damaged  by  frosts  if 
transplanted  now.  It  will  be  necessary  to  make 
large  holes  for  the  reception  of  the  specimens  to 
be  moved,  and  where  the  whole  of  the  soil  has 
not  been  previously  trenched,  the  bottoms  of  the 
holes  must  be  well  broken  up.  It  must  always 
be  remembered  that,  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances, a  tree  or  shrub  will  occupy  its  position 
for  many  years,  during  whieli  working  of  the 
soil  beneath  and  among  its  roots  is  practically 
out  of  the  question. 

Floioer  Oarde.n.  — Frost  has  now  killed  the  tops 
of  all  those  plants  which  may  be  regarded  solely 
as  summer  occupants  of  the  flower  garden ;  hence 
much  tidying  and  clearing  away  will  need  to  be 
done.  Any  plants  of  an  annual  character  may 
be  pulled  up  and  thrown  away,  and  those  of 
perennial  habit  have  their  tops  out  off  and  the 
rootstock  removed  to  a  place  of  safety.  Any 
Dahlias  not  yet  lifted  should  be  taken  up  without 
further  delay,  labelled,  their  tops  cut  off  and, 
after  being  stood  upside  down  for  a  few  days  to 
let  moisture  drain  out  of  their  hollow  stems, 
stored  in  a  dry  and  frost-proof  plioe  for  the 
winter,  the  tubers  being  embedded  in  ashes  for 
preference.  I  know  it  is  possible,  and  some 
amateurs  adopt  the  method,  to  leave  the  roots  in 
the  ground  all  the  winter  and  protect  them 
there  by  means  of  litter  and  ashes,  but  there 


is  nothing   to   gain, 
by  such  a  system. 


and   usually  much   to  lose, 


Fruit  Oarden. — Where  new  trees  were  ordered 
during  the  summer  months  they  will  now,  or 
shortly,  be  arriving  from  the  nursery,  and  the 
positions  where  they  are  to  be  planted  should  be 
in  readiness  to  receive  them.  As  in  the  case  of 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  the  soil  must  be 
well  and  deeply  broken  up,  but  I  am  not  an 
advocate  of  the  method  of  applying  manure  to 
the  soil  at  the  time  of  planting  ;  this  is  better 
applied  in  the  form  of  top-dressings  after  the 
trees  have  become  established.  If  the  ground  is 
not  ready,  or  the  weather  conditions  are  not 
suitable  for  permanent  planting,  the  trees  should 
be  unpacked  and  their  roots  laid  in  a  trench  and 
covered  with  soil,  otherwise  they  will  get  dried 
and  the  trees  thereby  suffer  considerably.  The 
pruning  and  training  of  established  trees  may  be 
pushed  forward  on  all  favourable  occasions,  as 
the  sooner  the  work  is  done 
now  the  better.  

Oreenhovae  and  Frames. — 
The  earliest  of  the  Roman 
Hyacinths  that  were  taken 
into  the  greenhouse  a  week  or 
two  ago  will  now  be  pushing 
up  their  flower-spikes  rapidly, 
and  to  produce  sturdy  stems 
the  plants  should  be  kept  as 
near  the  glass  as  possible. 
Bulbs  in  the  plunging  material 
will  need  bo  be  examined  once 
a  week,  and  those  which  are 
ready  removed  to  the  cold 
frames  and  afforded  gradually 
increasing  light  preparatory  to 
being  taken  to  the  greenhouse 
or  windows.  Arum  Lilies  will 
now  be  giving  us  the  first  of 
their  flowers,  and  will  require 
an  abundance  of  water ;  in 
fact,  where  the  drainage  is 
good  it  is  well-nigh  impossible 
to  overwater,  as  the  plants  are  naturally  almost 
aquatic.  In  addition  to  ordinary  water,  a  good 
soaking  with  weak,  clear  soot- water  twice  a  week 
will  be  much  appreciated  by  the  plants.         H. 


advantage  of,  and  cool  meadows  also  utilised 
for  this  purpose.  What  is  prettier  in  the 
earlier  days  of  spring  than  a  free  display  of 
the  Crocuses,  in  colours  pleasingly  diverse,  on  a 
grassy  slope  near  to  water  or  under  trees  before 
the  leaves  are  evolved  ?  Invariably  their  vege- 
tation is  apparent  long  before  the  leaves  on  the 
overhanging  branches  of  the  trees  could  cause 
them  inconvenience.  This  is  a  brilliant  subject, 
with  which  a  beginner  may  commence  operations 
with  the  sure  prospect  of  achieving  success. 

The  Snowdrops  when  naturally  grouped  on 
the  greensward  make  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
floral  pictures  imaginable.  They,  too,  are  seen 
to  advantage  on  soft  lawns  and  grassy  banks  as 
well  as  under  trees,  where  they  appear  to 
luxuriate.  Snowdrops  have  a  preference  for  deep 
moist  soil,  and  partial  shade  such  as  trees  afford. 

The  Grape  Hyacinth  (Muscari)  is  a  very  pretty 
subject  for  naturalising,  although  it  is  seldom 
seen  planted  in  this  way.    The  different  varieties 


I.^A   SQUARE   or  TDRF 


CUT    AND  UFTKD 
THE   BDLBS. 


PLANTING    BULBS    IN    TURF. 

The  naturalisation  of  the  more  popular  bulbous 
subjects  is  a  matter  little  understood  by  the 
majority  of  amateur  gardeners  to-day.  They  are 
so  accustomed  to  plant  their  bulbs  in  beds  and 
borders  round  about  their 
homes,  and  few  seem  to  realise 
the  great  possibilities  of  the 
different  subjects  when  planted 
in  the  grass  and  in  other 
equally  natural  positions. 

There  are  bo  many  bulbs 
that  take  kindly  to  this  natural 
method  of  employing  them  ; 
and  I  know  of  no  more  fasci- 
nating picture  than  a  series 
of  beautiful  colonies  of  hardy 
bulbs  in  flower  in  the  bright 
days  of  our  English  spring 
Reason.  There  are  plenty  of 
other  ways  of  growing  bulbs 
than  in  the  garden  proper, 
and  in  both  large  and  small 
gardens  it  should  not  be  diffi- 
cult to  find  places  where  the 
different  subjects  can  be 
grouped  in  natural  fashion. 
Orchards  should  be  taken  full 


pbeviods  to  planting 


THE  same  square  OK  TURF  AS  SEEN  IN  FIG.  I.  THE  SOIL 
HAS  BEEN  FORKED  OVER  AND  THE  NARCISSI  BULBS  ARRANGED 
IN   IRREGULAR  FASHION. 


of  this  charming  subject  in  varying  tones  of 
colour  create  beautiful  clouds  of  blue  that  are 
quite  distinct  and  novel  in  their  effect.  The 
Grape  Hyacinths,  being  so  pretty  and  dainty  in 
their  display,  place  the  Soillas  and  the  Chiono- 
doxa  (Glory  of  the  Snow)  at  some  disadvantage. 
Good  results  invariably  follow  the  planting  of 
these  two  subjects,  however,  and  those  who  have 
opportunities  of  employing  them  should  not  fail 
to  do  so.  The  Snowflakes  (Leucojum)  are  very 
pretty  bulbous  plants  having  Daffodil-like  leaves 
and  flowers  nearly  like  Snowdrops.  The 
Spring  Snowflake,  blossoming  in  March,  has  white 
flowers,  tipped  green,  and  is  fragrant.  Its 
botanical  name  is  Leucojum  vernum.  When 
planted  in  grass  or  under  trees  in  similar  fashion 
to  the  Snowdrops  they  are  very  charming.  Star 
of  Bethlehem,  better  known,  perhaps,  by  the 
botanical  name  of  Ornithogalum,  is  a  subject 
specially  suitable  for  naturalising  in  grass,  wood- 
land borders,  or  the  wild  garden.  The  bulbs 
should  be  grouped  3  inches  apart  in  irregular 
colonies  for  effect. 

The  Snake's-head  Fritillary  (Fritillaria  Mele- 
agris)  is  a  quaint  and  curious  subject,  and  does 
well  on  grassy  banks  or  planted  in  turf  where  the 
soil  is  fairly  moist.  Not  over-large  groups  of 
this  dainty  and  elegant  subject  are  a  distinct 
acquisition  to  this  aspect  of  gardening.  For 
very  early  displays  the  Winter  Aconite 
(Eranlhis)  is  without  an  equal.  This  tuberous- 
rooted  plant  belongs  to  the  Buttercup  order,  and 
is  frequently  met  with  in  large  establishments, 
where  it  is  grown  extensively  in  turf  under  the 


November  13,  1909.) 


THE    GARDEN. 


557 


-TWO  SQUARES  OF  TURF  COT  OUT,  THE  SOIL  FORKED 
OVER  AND  THIS  AREA  GROUPED  WITH  CROCUS  CORMS. 
THIS  SrSTEM  OF  PLANTINO  MAT  BE  CONTINUED  OVER 
ANY   SUITABLE  AREA. 


shade  of  trees,  in  woodland  borders  and  on  grassy 
slopes.  Its  bright  yellow  blossoms  are  most 
effective  immediately  the  hard  weather  is  an 
experience  of  the  past.  The  method  of  planting 
the  small  tubers  is  to  scatter  them  about  and 
plant  them  where  they  lie.  This  subject  flowers 
from  .January  to  March. 

One  of  the  best  and  most  popular  subjects  for 
naturalising  is  undoubtedly  the  Narcissus.  This 
now  gives  us  infinite  variety  and  delight- 
ful variations  of  form  and  colour.  Many  of  the 
better  Narcissi  can  now  be  procured  so  cheaply 
that  there  is  no  reason  why  they  should  not  be 
planted  very  extensively  where  there  is  oppor- 
tunity for  so  doing.  The  most  successful 
cultivators  have  planted  the  Star  Narcissus  in 
large  variety,  and  these  have  succeeded  beyond 
expectations.  In  hedgerows,  loamy  fields,  in 
woodland  gardens  or  in  lawns,  this  subject  does 
extremely  well,  but  the  setting  of  the  rich 
green  turf  is  undoubtedly  the  more  natural 
position.  Although  mention  has  been  made  of 
the  Chalice-oupped  or  Star  Narcissi,  we  must 
not  forget  the  claims  of  the  trumpet  Daffodils, 
which  give  us  so  many  noble-looking  flowers  ; 
and  besides  many  other  chaste  and  beautiful 
forms,  we  have  the  delightful  group  represented 
by  the  Poet's  Daflbdil  or  Narcissus,  which  group 
has  many  graceful  and  elegant  flowers.  Most  of 
these  come  into  flower  when  the  other  Narcissi 
have  finished  their  display,  and  are  valued  more 
highly  in  consequence. 

The  best  and  most  successful  way  of  growing 
Narcissi  is  to  plant  bold,  irregular  masses  in 
the  turf  of  the  lawn  or  grassland.  I  might 
mention  other  bulbous  subjects  that  merit 
recognition,  but  sufficient  has  been  said  to  prove 
to  the  beginner  that  a  great  delight  awaits  those 
who  will  commence  operations  forthwith.  The 
method  of  dealing  with  the  actual  planting  of 
the  bulbs  is  not  by  any  means  difficult  to  carry 
into  effect.  The  first  consideration  is  where  to 
plant.  In  the  foregoing  notes  I  have  already 
indicated  where  the  different  subjects  will  best 
succeed,  so  that  any  would-be  grower  may  easily 
determine  for  himself  the  best  position  in  his 
own  garden,  woodland  or  meadow  land. 

To  plant  bulbs  in  turf  it  is  necessary  fibrst  to 
lift  the  latter.  The  bulbs  are  not  dibbled  in  as 
some  may  possibly  imagine.  The  turf  should  be 
lifted  in  squares  by  the  aid  of  a  stout,  sharp 
spade,  and  not  out  too  deeply.  At  this  period 
the  lifting  of  the  turves  is  not  so  difficult  as  it 
was  earlier  in  the  season.  The  reason  why  the 
turves  are  cut  in  squares  is  that  it  is  easier  to 
lift  them,  and  they  are  replaced  so  much  more 
satisfactorily  when  the  planting  is  finished. 
Although  the  turf  is  cut  square,  it  does  not  follow 
that  the  bulbs  are  to  be  arranged  or  planted  in 
squares    also.     As  a    matter  of   fact,   just  the 


opposite  is  the  case.  Fig.  1  shows 
a  square  of  turf  cut  out  preparatory 
to  the  planting.  Some  growers  do 
not  actually  cut  out  the  square,  but 
leave  one  end  of  the  turf,  as  it  were, 
hinged  on.  This  is  simple  enough. 
It  is  well  to  remember,  however, 
to  place  each  turf  on  the  side  of 
the  square  from  which  it  is  cut,  as 
this,  when  returned,  will  ensure  a 
better  finish  to  the  operations. . 

Fig.  2  portrays  the  actual  planting 
of  a  small  group  of  Daffodils.  Pre- 
vious to  the  planting,  the  soil  in  the 
square  should  be  forked  over  and 
broken  up,  and  where  the  soil  is  of 
very  heavy  texture  a  little  gritty 
material  may  be  added  with  advan- 
tage. The  bulbs  should  be  planted 
about  2  inches  deep,  and  the  groups 
should  be  irregular  and  natural  in 
their  outline,  otherwise  much  of  the 
charm  of  this  method  of  planting 
will  be  lost.  The  section  in  the 
illustration  is  only  part  of  what 
may  reasonably  be  a  long,  irregular 
series  of  colonies  quite  informally 
All  that  is  necessary  to  continue  or 
complete  the  planting  is  to  lift  squares  of  turf 
where  it  is  thought  the  prettiest  effects  may  be 
ultimately  produced. 

Fig.  3  serves  to  illustrate  a  method  of  planting 
Crocuses  on  a  grassy  slope.  Here  it  will  be 
observed  two  turves  have  been  lifted,  and  the 
corms  disposed  in  irregular  form  throughout.  Do 
not  make  the  mistake  of  arranging  the  bulbs 
equidistant,  or  the  natural  effect  will  be  lost.  On 
reflection  most  readers  will  understand  and 
appreciate  the  absolute  necessity  for  ignoring  the 
formal  grouping  so  widely  practised  in  beds  and 
borders  in  many  gardens. 

Fig.  4  shows  the  turves  replaced  in  position 
over  the  planted  bulbs.  Having  arranged  these 
satisfactorily,  it  is  only  necessary  to  beat  down 
the  turves  firmly  to  complete  the  operation. 
That  this  shall  be  done  in  thorough  fashion,  work 
round  each  square,  evenly  beating  down  with  the 
back  of  a  spade  in  the  manner  shown  in  the 
picture.  We  must  then  patiently  await  the 
flowering  season,  and  each  succeeding  season, 
for  a  few  years  at  least,  will  enhance  the 
display.  D.  B.  C. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


disposed. 


Rose  Cuttings. — The  Rose  may  be  multiplied 
in  several  ways,  namely,  by  budding  in  summer- 
time, by  the  propagation  of  shoots  in  the 
autumn,  and  by  the  propagation  of  young 
growths  in  spring.  In  the  first  instance,  the 
cultivator  must  have  some  stocks  whereon  to 
insert  the  buds  ;  in  the  latter  instance,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  certain  amount  of  heat,  espe- 
cially bottom-heat,  for  the  rapid  and  sure  emission 
of  young  roots  from  the  tender  slip  ;  but  in  the 
present  instance  cuttings  of  the  current  year's 
growth  may  be  inserted  in  the  soil  in  the  open 
border  in  any  garden.  So  the  town  gardener 
may  busy  himself  at  once  in  the  work  of  increas- 
ing the  stock  of  some  favourite  varieties  by 
inserting  cuttings.  A  border  facing  north  or 
north-east  is  the  best  for  the  purpose.  The  soil 
must  not  be  too  cold  owing  to  bad  drainage  ; 
but  if  the  drainage  is  ample  a  cool  medium  is 
the  most  suitable  for  the  cuttings  to  root  into. 
Failing  a  north  or  north-east  border,  the  culti- 
vator need  not  hesitate  to  put  in  the  cuttings  in 
a  border  near  the  centre  of  the  garden.  A  firm 
rooting  ground  is  superior  to  a  loose  one  ;  so,  if 
the  border  soil  be  open  and  loose,  it  should  be 
thoroughly  trodden  down  before  any  cuttings  are 
put  in.  There  is  no  need  to  use  manure  ;  in  fact, 
it  would  be  a  mistake  to  put  in  any. 

The  Best   Wood   for   the   Cuttings. — The 
best  wood  is  that  which  has  grown  during  the 


present  season,  but  it  must  be  ripened  wood  and 
not  the  late,  unripe  branches.  The  shoots  ought 
to  be  about  9  inches  long  after  the  point  of  each 
has  been  cut  off ;  then  about  i  inches  of  each 
cutting  may  be  inserted  in  the  soil.  If  a  heel — 
a  small  portion  of  older  wood — can  be  secured 
with  each  cutting,  there  will  be  more  likelihood 
of  the  latter  forming  roots. 

Open  trenches  in  the  firm  border  soil  12  inches 
apart  and  5  inches  deep,  scatter  a  nice  quantity 
of  coarse  sand  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench, 
and  place  the  cuttings  with  their  base  resting  in 
the  sand.  Then  fill  in  the  trench  with  the 
ordinary  soil  and  make  it  very  firm,  especially 
around  the  base  of  the  cuttings.  Use  a  very 
sharp  knife  in  dealing  with  the  latter.  When  a 
severe  frost  comes  it  will  loosen  the  cuttings  in 
the  ground  by  lifting  them ;  thus  the  base  will  not 
rest  upon  firm  soil,  and  if  left  so  the  wood  would 
probably  decay.  Directly  the  frost  has  gone  out 
of  the  soil  tread  it  down  firmly  again,  and  so  make 
sure  of  having  it  pressed  tightly  against  the 
cuttings. 

Planting  Climbing  Roses. — Such  varieties 
as  Mme.  Berard  and  William  Allen  Richardson 
require  plenty  of  space  to  grow  in  if  they  are  to 
turn  out  satisfactory  in  every  way.  When 
grown  in  a  restricted  area  too  much  pruning  is 
required  to  keep  the  shoots  within  bounds,  and 
then  few  flowers  are  borne  on  the  plants.  The 
hard  pruning  causes  still  stronger  shoots  to  grow. 
In  restricted  areas,  whether  on  walls  or  fences, 
it  is  far  better  to  plant  less  robust-growing 
varieties.  Very  frequently  we  see  Rose  trees  in 
indifferent  health  trained  to  the  dwelling-house 
walls  ;  probably  strong  plants  were  put  in,  and 
the  reason  why  they  turn  out  so  very  unsatis- 
factory afterwards  is  because  the  ground  was 
not  properly  prepared  for  them  at  the  beginning. 
Strong  plants  will  not  continue  to  produce  strong 
shoots  and  beautiful  large  flowers  unless  they  are 
growing  in  a  good  and  sustaining  rooting  medium. 
This  the  cultivator  must  provide  before  he  puts 
in  a  single  Rose.  The  ground  should  be  dug 
deeply  and,  if  the  soil  is  of  a  poor,  sandy  nature, 
add  some  turfy  loam,  chopped  into  pieces  about 
4  inches  square,  and  some  well-rotted  manure. 
Even  if  one  bushel  of  soil  be  put  in  for  each  tree, 
the  latter  will  thrive  well  for  many  years. 
Numerous  fibrous  roots  will  take  possession  of 
the  turfy  loam,  and  when  the  plants  are  fed  the 
stimulant  will  reach  the  roots  and  greatly  benefit 
them. 

Another  Lovely  Wall  and  Pillar  Plant. — 
Jasminum  officinale  is  a  single-flowered,  sweet- 
scented  subject  suitable  for  the  covering  of  any 
building,  wall,  pillar  or  fence.  It  is  a  good  plant 
for  a  town  garden,  and  will  grow  in  almost  any 
position.  A  small  quantity  of  old  lime  rubble 
should  be  mixed  with  the  soil.  When  established 
the  only  attention  this  plant  needs  is  watering 
during  dry  weather,  occasional  cutting  out  of  the 
oldest  wood  and  tying  in  young  shoots.     Avon. 


-THE   SQUARES  OF    TURF    REPLACED    AFTER 
THE    PLANTING    HAS    BEEN    DONE. 


558 


THE     GARDEN. 


[November  13,  1909- 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 

FOR   THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 
Flowbb     Garden. 
A  LTERATIONS  to  be  made  in  the  flower 
/\  garden  should  be  pushed  forward  as 

/   %         fast  as  time  will  permit,  so  that  the 

/  ^  work  may  be  got  through  before  the 
£  ^  cold,  snowy  weather  sets  in. 
Walks  and  gravel  paths  will,  in 
some  soils,  require  good  drainage  and  every 
precaution  taken  to  make  the  whole  firm  and 
neat ;  and  less  drainage  will  be  needed  if  the 
natural  soil  is  shallow  and  resting  on  a  good 
depth  of  gravel.  Flower-beds  to  be  altered  and 
new  ones  to  be  made  must  not  be  overlooked, 
remembering  that  with  the  new  year  each  day 
brings  its  own  work  in  other  departments,  and 
which  must  not  be  neglected  if  good  crops  are  to 
be  expected. 

Evergreens  for  decorative  purposes,  both  in 
beds  and  vases,  should  be  placed  in  their  winter 
quarters.  Auoubas,  Euonymuses  and  many  ever- 
green shrubs  of  neat  growth  will  make  a  good 
effect  where  the  beds  are  expected  to  be  clothed 
in  winter  and  spring  ;  and  intermixed  with  these 
a  few  bulbs,  Wallflowers,  Forget-me-nots,  Violas, 
Alyssums,  Aubrietias  and  similar  plants,  will 
brighten  up  the  beds  at  a  time  when  it  is  most 
needed.  In  cold  parts,  and  where  the  climate  is 
somewhat  unfavourable,  Roses  and  many  other 
plants  will  be  best  planted  in  March  or  April, 
the  grower  being  content  at  this  season  with  the 
trenching,  draining  and  preparing  the  beds. 

Ranunculus. — If  the  soil  is  not  too  heavy  and 
wet,  and  a  good  planting  of  these  is  made  at  the 
present  time,  a  bright  show  of  flowers  in  spring 
will  be  the  result.  For  these  and  Anemones  the 
land  requires  a  good  dressing  of  well-decayed 
manure.  Plant  from  2  inches  to  3  inches  deep  and 
about  ti  inohea  to  S  inches  apart,  according  to  the 
size  and  strength  of  the  roots.  Place  young  HoUy- 
hocks(in  pots)iDcoldframes,asalthoughthe  plants 
may  stand  outside  and  suffer  no  harm  in  some 
winters,  it  is  preferable  to  have  a  quantity 
potted  and  kept  in  cold  frames  till  spring  and 
then  planted  in  good,  deeply  worked  soil,  and  not 
too  cramped  for  room.  Plants  so  treated  should 
produce  excellent  spikes  of  bloom.  All  tender 
shrubs  should  be  protected  before  any  damage 
occurs. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Mordlo  Cherries  and  other  fruit  trees  on  north 
walls  should  now  be  taken  in  hand,  and  the  prun- 
ing and  tying  pushed  forward  before  the  days 
get  too  cold.  Uo  not  overcrowd  with  useless 
shoots,  but  aim  to  have  the  whole  of  the  wall 
space  covered  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  with 
useful  fruiting  shoots.  See  that  the  trees  are 
evenly  balanced,  take  care  not  to  damage  the 
bark  with  the  hammer,  and  allow  ample  space 
between  the  bark  and  ties  for  expansion. 

Orchards. — When  planting  young  trees  see 
that  the  stocks  on  which  they  have  been  worked 
are  healthy  and  free.  Those  planting  on  a  large 
scale  will  do  well  to  get  advice  from  a  good 
fruit-grower  and  plant  only  those  that  succeed 
well  in  that  neighbourhood.  Cheap  plants  pur- 
chased at  sales  are  sometimes  dear  to  those  who 
expect  to  reap  good  crops  from  the  land  on  which 
they  have  been  planted. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

As  fast  as  the  land  is  cleared  lose  no  time  in 
getting  manure  wheeled  to  the  different  quarters. 
Frosty  weather  should  be  taken  advantage  of. 
Work  the  manure  well  down  as  the  trenching 
proceeds,  so  that  in  dry  weather  the  roots  of 
many  vegetables  may  get  out  of  reach  of  the 
drought,  and  the  watering  will  be  greatly  lessened 
and  the  crops,  in  addition,  much  superior. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Park  Oardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Plant  Bei'Artmknt. 
Stove  Plants. — Cuttings  of  Coleus  may  now 
be  put  in,  as  these  strike  readily  in  moderate 
warmth  ;  the  old  plants  may  then  be  discarded. 
Introduce  batches  of  Poinsettia,  Euphorbia  jao- 
quinfeflora.  Plumbago  rosea,  .Tusticia  and  other 
winter-flowering  plants  to  warmer  quarters  from 
time  to  time.  Afford  these  and  any  other  plants 
approaching  the  flowering  stage  weak  stimulants 
regularly.  AUamandas,  Bougainvilleas  and 
Clerodendrons  showing  signs  of  cessation  of 
growth  should  now  be  very  sparingly  watered. 
The  first-named  may  be  pruned  to  economise 
space,  but  the  others  are  best  left  intact 
until  spring.  Gloriosas  and  all  other  kinds  of 
tuberous-rooted  plants  that  are  losing  their 
foliage  are  best  kept  on  the  dry  side,  and  may  be 
finally  stored  beneath  stages  or  other  convenient 
positions  where  they  are  free  from  drip  and  close 
proximity  to  hot-water  pipes. 

Orchids. — In  mixed  collections  of  these,  a 
few  species,  as  Cattleya  labiata  autumnalis,  C. 
bowringiana  and  Dendrobium  Phalasnopsis,  will 
be  making  a  good  display  of  bloom.  If  surface 
dressing  was  done  some  time  ago,  the  new 
material  will  have  a  tendency  to  retain  moisture  ; 
consequently  watering  should  be  carefully  and 
sparingly  performed.  Cypripediums  of  the 
insigne  section,  on  the  other  hand,  must  never 
feel  the  want  of  water,  and  long-established  or 
rootbound  plants  are  greatly  benefited  by 
occasional  doses  of  manure,  than  which  nothing 
is  safer  than  a  peck  of  sheep-manure  put  into  a 
bag  and  immersed  in  thirty  gallons  of  water, 
using  this  when  quite  clear. 

Plants  Jor  Table  Decoration  should  have  a  posi- 
tion fully  exposed  to  the  light,  and  if  space  is 
limited,  the  raising  of  some  upon  inverted  pots 
makes  a  considerable  difference  in  this  respect. 
Frequent  turning  of  the  plants  prevents  any  that 
are  rootbound  from  rooting  into  the  ashes  or 
other  material  used  beneath  them,  and  also  tends 
to  keep  them  erect  in  growth  ;  the  latter  is  very 
essential  in  lean-to  houses.  On  very  dull  days 
syringing  is  bestdispensed  with;  but  when  bright, 
vigorous  applications  of  tepid  water  will  promote 
health  and  prove  discomforting  to  insects. 

The  Flower  Garden. 

Sub-tropical  and  HalJ-hardy  Plants,  such  as 
Fuchsias,  Abutilons,  Cannas,  Aloysia  citriodora, 
specimen  Heliotropes  and  some  few  others  that 
it  is  desired  to  keep  for  another  year,  should  now 
be  housed  ;  but  as  space  under  glass  is  likely  to 
be  scarce  for  a  few  weeks,  the  plants  if  placed 
against  a  wall  or  building,  where  temporary 
coverings  may  be  used  if  necessary,  will  probably 
keep  them  safe. 

Oladioli  may  be  similarly  treated  while  the 
stems  yet  adhere  to  the  corms,  the  separation 
being  quite  easily  effected  later  on.  Some 
varieties,  as  Colvillei  and  brenchleyensis,  may 
remain  in  the  ground  if  desired  in  favoured  dis- 
tricts, some  coal-ashes,  Fern  or  branches  being 
placed  over  them  during  severe  frosts. 
Fruit  Houses. 

Vineries. — Houses  containing  Grapes  will  re- 
quire very  careful  attention  to  heating  and 
airing  during  the  decay  of  the  foliage,  the 
evil  this  year  being  intensified  by  the  heavy  and 
almost  continuous  rainfall.  In  the  neighbour- 
hood of  large  towns  fog  must  be  excluded  by  all 
possible  means  ;  hence  the  ventilators  must  at 
times  be  closed.  Otherwise,  a  little  air  at  the  apex 
of  the  house  and  slight  warmth  in  the  pipes, 
maintaining  a  temperature  at  about  50°  in  dull 
weather  and  at  night,  is  likely  to  secure  the  best 
results.  On  bright,  dry  days  air  freely  and  apply 
extra  warmth  for  the  time  being,  but  revert  to 
lower  temperatures  afterwards,  or  shrivelling  of 
the  berries  will  ensue. 

James  Dat. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn.) 

Galloway  House,  Oarliestsn,  Wintovmshire. 


THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


A  New  Wire  Plant  Support. 
Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Bush  Hill  Park, 
Enfield,  send  us  a  new  wire  plant  support  which 
will,  we  think,  prove  very  useful  indeed.  It  is  a 
simple  yet  clever  contrivance,  and  is  quickly  and 
easily  secured  to  the  stake.  Messrs.  Low  write  : 
"  We  are  forwarding  you  samples  of  a  new  plant 
support,  invented  and  patented  by  our  Mr.  All- 
wood,  and  which  we  are  placing  on  the  market 
as  'AH wood's  Patent  Plant  Support.'  The 
originality  and  distinctiveness  of  our  support  is 
that  the  stick  is  in  the  centre  of  the  plant  ;  the 
support  fixes  on  to  almost  any  size  stick  with  a 
spring  or  clip,  while  the  outer  loop  which 
supports  the  plant  is  adjustable,  and  can  be 
made  to  fit  a  plant  of  any  size.  You  will  see  the 
advantages  of  a  wire  support  over  ordinary 
stakes  and  raffia.  The  supports  are  placed  in 
position  in  less  time  than  tying,  and  support  the 
plants  for  the  entire  season,  while  the  stems  are 
always  straight.  Also  the  flowers  can  be  cut  in 
much  less  time,  while  the  supports  themselves 
last  for  years." 

ViTis  Leaves  from  Reigatb. 
I  send  you  a  few  leaves  of  Vitis  Coignetise  to 
show  you  the  lovely  colours  they  assume  in  the 
autumn.  Planted  several  years  ago  on  the  west 
side  of  the  house,  the  specimen  has,  when  the  sap 
has  gone  down,  to  be  severely  cut  back  to  keep 
it  off  the  chimney  stacks,  and  away  from  Roses 
Carmine  Pillar  on  one  side  and  Gustave  Regis  on 
the  other.  The  leaves  began  to  change  colour 
three  weeks  ago  or  more.  On  the  same  wall  is  a 
fine  plant  of  Parrotia  persica,  six  years  old,  but 
the  leaves  are  still  the  richest  green,  and  pro- 
bably the  frost  will  come  before  they  begin  to 
turn.  They  have  never  turned  very  much  so  far, 
but  are  very  handsome  all  the  summer. — .J.  A.  D., 
Reiyate. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


ROLES    FOB    COBBESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answ^eps.— T'^  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  Thb 
Garden,  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London^ 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  inore  than  one  qitery  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Bulbs  to  grrow  in  North  Queens- 
land {E.  i^.  <S.  Jl/.).— While  it  is  quite  probable 
that  the  well-known  bulbs  you  suggest,  such  as 
Narcissi,  Tulips  and  Snowflakes,  will  thrive  under 
the  conditions  you  mention,  their  flowering 
period  will  be  a  very  short  one,  not  more  than  a 
few  days  at  the  outside.  It  is  probable  that 
drought  and  heat  together  will  be  too  much  for 
the  majority  of  Lilies  ;  but  if  you  can  provide 
shade  and  a  fairly  constant  water  supply,  you 
may  try  L.  auratum,  L  longiflorum  Harrisii,  L. 
Brownii,  L.  Henryii  and  L.  sulphureum.  Bulbs 
which  will  better  repay  your  trouble  and  expense, 
however,  are  Hippeastrums  (garden  varieties), 
Albuca  Nelsoni,  Amaryllis  Belladonna,  Bruns- 
vigia  gigantea,  B.  .Josephinte,  Crinum  Moorei, 
C.  Augustum,  C.  giganteum,  C.  asiatioum,  C. 
longifolium  and  C.  Macowani,  Cyrtanthus 
hybridus,  Eucharis  amazonioa,  Freesia  refraota 
and  varieties.  Gladioli  (any  kinds),  Galtonia 
oandicans,    Hxmanthus  albiflos,    H.    coccineus, 


November  13,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


559 


H.  magnifieus,  H.  Katherinse  and  H.  multiflorus, 
Lyooria  aurea,  Nerine  ourvifolia  and  variety 
Fothergillii,  N.  flexuosa  and  any  garden  form, 
Laohenalias  in  variety,  Sprekelia  formosissima 
and  Watsonia  meriana.  You  would  probably  be 
able  to  obtain  a  great  deal  of  useful  information 
on  this  matter  by  applying  to  Mr.  J.  F. 
Bailey,  Director,  Botanical  Gardens,  Brisbane,  or 
to  Mr.  H.  J.  Johnson,  Secretary,  Acclimatisation 
Society's  Gardens,  Brisbane.  They  would  also 
be  able  to  inform  you  as  to  the  best  people  to 
obtain  the  plants  from,  best  means  of  shipment 
and  various  other  items,  if  you  do  not  wish  to 
obtain  the  bulbs  in  Eogland.  If  you  wish  to 
obtain  them  at  home,  apply  to  one  of  the  best 
firms  of  nurserymen  for  them,  and  they  will 
understand  your  requirements. 

How  to  treat  a  Fuchsia  (Ignorance).— Yon 
had  better  protect  the  plant  by  mulching  at  the  base 
either  with  ashes  or  light  manure.  It  ia  quite  likely  that, 
following  a  season  like  the  present  with  so  little  sun, 
the  plant  will  suffer  if  severe  frosts  are  experienced.  We 
are  unable  to  comply  with  your  request  for  "  a  plan  or 
plans  for  border,"  but  if  you  send  particulars  of  its  length 
and  width  we  may  help  you  by  naming  some  suitable 
plants  for  the  same.  If  you  already  have  herbaceous 
plants  in  the  border,  please  say  so,  and  to  what  extent ; 
also  give  the  size  of  the  portion  you  have  now  in  mind  to 
deal  with.  

THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Infopmation  about  Aralia  {Mrs. 
A.  J.). — Aralia  Sieboldii  can  be  induced  to  root 
in  the  manner  referred  to  by  you,  but  it  will  take 
a  considerable  time,  and  it  will  be  a  difficult 
matter  in  a  dwelling-house  to  maintain  the  moss 
in  a  uniform  state  of  moisture,  so  necessary  for 
the  production  of  roots.  In  the  case  of  an  old 
hard  stem  roots  are  not  readily  produced,  so  the 
layering  (for  it  is  really  a  modification  thereof) 
must  be  done  where  the  wood  and  bark  is 
moderately  soft.  At  the  spot  selected,  a  cut 
should  be  made  by  inserting  the  knife  and  bring- 
ing it  upwards  for  about  3  inches.  This  must  be 
repeated  three  times,  thus  leaving  three  tongues 
of  bark  with  a  little  wood  attached.  A  small 
piece  of  stick  or  broken  crock  must  be  inserted 
underneath  each  tongue  to  prevent  it  from  clos- 
ing. This  will  arrest  the  flow  of  sap  and  form 
the  spot  whence  roots  will  be  produced.  In 
making  these  outs  care  must  be  taken  that  they 
do  not  take  up  more  than  one-half  of  the  stem — 
that  is  to  say,  between  the  cuts  there  must  be  a 
strip  of  bark  untouched  the  same  width  as  the 
out  portion.  This  is  very  necessary,  as  the  un- 
mutilated  portion  will  have  to  supply  the  entire 
head  with  nourishment  till  roots  are  pushed 
forth.  The  month  of  March  will  be  a  good  time 
to  do  this,  and  the  cut  portion  must  be  bound 
round  with  a  bftU  of  moss  as  large  as  a  6-ineh 
pot.  It  will  be  at  least  six  months  before  the 
top  can  be  cut  off  from  the  stem,  and,  as  above 
stated,  the  moss  must  always  be  kept  moist. 
Instead  of  attempting  to  induce  the  top  of  the 
Aralia  to  root,  we  should  be  inclined  to  plant  it 
outdoors,  as  it  is  quite  hardy,  and  obtain  a 
smaller  plant  for  indoors. 

Bulbs  In  fibpe  with  moss  covering  (TT.  H. 
Bolton).— Oav  correspondent  asks  us  if  we  think  moss  dyed 
green  a  suitable  covering  to  put  upon  the  surface  of  pots 
or  bowls  in  which  bulbs  are  grown.  Speaking  for  ourselves 
we  should  say,  "  No."  It  is  always  a  jar  to  see  the  natural 
and  artificial  mixed  up  in  the  way  suggested.  On  the 
other  hand,  good  fresh  moss  we  consider  an  excellent  finish 
to  nearly  ail  bulbs  which  are  grown  in  pots,  bowls  or 
vases.  If  two  pots  of  the  same  Daffodil  (in  flower)  were 
placed  side  by  side,  nine  people  out  of  ten  would,  we 
think,  prefer  that  pot  in  which  the  soil  was  nicely  covered 
with  good  fresh  moss  to  the  one  without  any.  It  is 
probably  more  artificial  to  have  bulbs  growing  in  borders 
than  in  grass  or  from  some  kind  of  green  carpet.  Because 
our  eyes  are  more  accustomed  to  see  them  growing  out  of 
soil  than  from  grass  or  moss,  it  is  no  reason  why  we  should 
think  this  the  only  way  they  look  natural. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Names  of  plants.— C  F.  ^.— Elseagnus  angusti- 
folius.    It  is  quite  hardy  and  will  grow  in  any  good  garden 

soil. Mrs  A.  Thomson. — Pyrus  Aria  (White  Beam  Tree), 

Carpinus  Betulus(  Hornbeam)  and  Crat^gus  tomentosa. 

B.  Mott. — Adiantura  veitchianum  and  Polypodium  aureum. 

B.    T/ior;i,— Pyrus    Aria  (White   Beam    Tree). W. 

Harris. — 1,  Send  in  flower;  2,  Acer  dasycarpum ;  3,  Spiraea 


lindleyana  ;  4,  send  in  flower;  5,  Lamium  maculatum. 

H.  Henderson  — Rhamnus  catharticus.     Pear  rotten  when 

received  ;    Apple    not    known. M.  M.  N.  D. — Salvia 

riugens  requires  cool  greenhouse    treatment  and  to  be 

potted  in  sandy  loam.    It  usually  flowers  in  summer. 

Mrs.  Clements. — Probably  Fraxinus  excelsior  nanus.  A 
piece  of  twig  should  be  sent  in  order  to  enable  us  to 

identify  correctly. A.  W.  Neivport. — Saponaria  officinalis 

flore-pleno.  We  regret  we  cannot  name  the  garden  form 
of  Chrysanthemiuns. 

Names  of  fpult. — R.  W.  R. — The  Pear  is  a  remark- 
ably fine  fruit  of  Beurr6  Diel. H.  Ford. — Apples :  1  and 

3,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  ;  2,  King  of  the  Pippins  ;  4,  Northern 
Greening  ;  5,  Jefferson  ;  6,  Lamb  Abbey  Pearmain.  Pears ; 
1,    Marie    Louise   d'Uccle ;    2,    Brown    Beurre ;  4,   Glou 

Morteau  ;  5,  Swan's  Egg ;  7,  Josephine  de  Malines. R. 

Bu.ston.—'PeaT  Broome  Park. Re.ti.  B.  R.  /.— 1,  Norfolk 

Beaufln  ;  2,  Adam's  Pearmain.     The  shrub  is  Ligustrum 

japonicum. /.  L.  N. — 1,  Rotten  when  received;  2,  poor 

specimens  of  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey  ;  3,  Brown  Beurr6  ; 

4.  Winter  Nelis  ;   o,  Catillac  ;  6,  Worcester  Pearmain. 

F.  B.  Robeson. — 1,  A  fine  specimen  of  TJvedale's  St.  Ger- 
main ;  2,  Josephine  de  Malines  ;  3,  Comte  de  Lamy ;  4, 
Cox's  Orange  Pippin  ;  5,  Scarlet  Nonpareil ;  6,  Kedleston 

Pippin. A.  J.  Avenell. — Round   Pear,  Brown   Beurr6  ; 

long  Pear,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey. E.  P.— I,  Kedleston 

Pippin  ;   2,  Fearn's  Pippin. 


SOCIETIES. 

NATIONAL    CHRYSANTHEMUM    SOCIETY'S 
EXHIBITION. 

The  great  autumn  show  arranged  by  the  above  society 
was  held  at  the  Crystal  Palace  on  the  3rd,  4th  and  5th 
inat.,  and,  considering  the  season,  a  very  good  display  was 
made.  Large-flowered  Japanese  varieties  were  most 
esteosively  shown,  competition  being  weakest  in  the 
incurved.  Pompon  and  plant  classes.  Singles,  too,  were 
not  so  freely  shown  as  they  have  been  for  several  years 
past.  Excellent  arrangements  were  made  by  the  secre- 
tary, assisted  by  an  enthusiastic  committee.  At  the 
luncheon,  held  during  the  afternoon  of  the  first  day  in 
honour  of  the  judges,  the  president,  Sir  Albert  RoUit, 
LL.D.,  D.C.L.,  occupied  the  chair,  and  referred  in 
enthusiastic  terms  to  the  work  being  done  by  the  society, 
and  hoped  that  it  had  now  weathered  the  worst  of  the 
storm. 

For  a  floral  display  of  Chrysanthemums  and  suitable 
foliaged  plants  in  pots,  with  the  addition  of  cut  blooms 
and  any  appropriate  cut  foliage,  the  first  prize  was 
awarded  to  Mr.  W.  Howe,  gardener  to  Lady  Tate,  Park 
Hill,  Sbreatham  Common,  for  a  splendidly  arranged  group 
of  well-grown  material,  this  being  the  only  exhibit  in  the 
class. 

For  twelve  vases  of  Japanese  blooms,  distinct,  the  com- 
petition was  good,  the  first  prize  being  well  won  by  Mr. 
W.  Iggulden,  Lock's  Hill  Nurseries,  Frome,  who  staged 
some  very  good  blooms  indeed.  Some  of  his  best  were 
C.  H.  Totty,  Lady  Talbot,  W.  Gee,  Gladys  Blackbume, 
Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller  and  Reginald  Vallis.  Second  honours  went 
to  Mr.  G.  Hall,  gardener  to  Executor  of  Lady  Ashburton, 
Melchet  Court,  Romsey,  Hants,  whose  bl«oms  were  also 
good,  but  smaller  than  those  in  the  first-prize  collection. 
Algernon  Davis,  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  F.  S  Vallis  and  Mme. 
P.  Radaelli  were  four  of  the  best.  Third  and  fourth 
honours  were  won  respectively  by  Mr.  W.  Higgs,  gardener 
to  J.  B.  Hankey,  Esq.,  Fetcham  Park,  Leatherhead,  and 
Mr.  A.  Smith,  Convent  Gardens,  Roehampton. 

The  first  prize  and  challenge  trophy,  offered  to  affiliated 
societies  for  a  display  of  cut  Chrysanthemums  arranged  on 
a  table,  was  won  by  the  Dolwich  Chrysanthemum  and  Hor- 
ticultural Society  for  an  attractive  display. 

Open  Classes.— Cut  Blooms  and  Plants. 

For  thirty-six  Incurved  blooms,  distinct,  Mr.  W.  Higgs, 
Fetcham  Park  Gardens,  Leatherhead,  was  the  only  ex- 
hibitor, but  the  judges  awarded  him  first  prize.  His 
blooms  were  rather  small,  but  of  good  shape  and  colour, 
Buttercup  and  Clara  Wells  being  two  of  the  best. 

There  were  six  entries  in  the  class  for  forty-eight 
Japanese  blooms,  distinct,  Mr.  T.  Waller,  gardener  to 
A.  C.  flammersley,  Esq.,  Abney  House,  Bourne  End, 
coming  out  first  with  a  very  fine  lot  of  blooms,  among 
which  we  noticed  F.  S.  Vallis,  C.  Montigny,  Mme.  Gustave 
Henry,  Miss  Faith  Moore  and  Lady  Talbot  as  being 
particularly  good.  Second  prize  was  secured  by  Mr.  T. 
Stevenson,  Woburn  Place  Gardens,  Addlestone,  who  was 
very  close  to  the  first-prize  exhibitor,  thus  proving  that 
the  whole  of  his  energies  are  not  devoted  to  Sweet  Peas. 
Mme.  G.  Rivol,  Lady  Talbot,  Master  James  and  F.  H. 
Wallace  were  four  of  his  best.  Third  and  fourth  prizes 
were  won  respectively  by  Mr.  G.  Hall,  Romsey,  and  Mr. 
W.  Mease,  Downside  Gardens,  Leatherhead. 

For  twelve  vases  of  incurved  blooms,  distinct,  there  was 
only  one  exhibitor,  namely,  Mr.  W.  Higgs,  Fetcham  Park 
Gardens,  Leatherhead,  but  his  blooms  were  sufficient  to 
justify  the  judges  in  awarding  him  first  prize. 

For  twenty-four  Chrysanthemum  plants,  six  varieties, 
there  were  three  entries,  Mr.  H.  J.  Hedges,  Kirkdale 
Nursery,  Sydenham,  securing  the  premier  award  for  small 
but  well-grown  plants.  Second  honours  went  to  Mr.  F. 
Brizier,  Caterham,  whose  varieties  were  mostly  of  the 
better  class  singles.  Mr.  T.  W.  Stevens,  gardener  to  W. 
H.  Stone,  Esq.,  Laurie  Park  Gardens,  Sydenham,  was 
third. 

For  six  bush  plants  of  singl*-  varieties,  distinct,  not  less 
than  a  given  size,  Mr.  G.  Bowyer,  Laurie  Park,  Sydenham, 
was  the  only  competitor  and  secured  third  prize,  his 
plants  not  being  quite  far  enough  advanced. 


There  were  only  two  entries  in  the  class  for  six  Japanese 
blooms,  distinct,  to  be  chosen  from  varieties  sent  out  by 
Messrs.  Wells  and  Co.  during  190.3  and  1909,  trade  growers 
excluded.  Mr.  W.  Mease,  Leatherhead,  was  a  goud  first, 
his  varieties  being  Pockett's  Surprise,  Rose  Pockett,  C.  H. 
Totty,  Merstham  Blush,  Leslie  Morrison  and  ilrs.  L.  Thorn. 
Mr.  G.  Hunt,  gardener  to  Pantia  Ralli,  Esq.,  Ashstead 
Park,  Epsom,  was  second,  his  flowers  including  good 
specimens  of  Mrs.  L.  Thorn  and  Rose  Pockett. 
Open  Classes.— Cut  Blooms. 
The  President's  Cup,  offered  for  twenty-four  Japanese 
blooms,  distinct,  brought  forth  six  entries,  Mr.  T.  Waller, 
Abney  House  Gardens,  Bourne  End,  winning  the  cup  with 
a  very  nice  lot  of  full  blooms ;  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  F.  S. 
Vallis,  Lady  Talbot  and  President  Viger  were  four  of  the 
best.  Mr.  T.  Stevenson  was  a  good  second,  his  flowers 
being  large  and  moderately  well  developed.  We  specially 
noticed  Mr.  C.  Penford,  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller  and  James  Lock. 
Third,  fourth  and  fifth  prizes  were  won  respectively  by 
Mr.  W.  Rigby,  60,  Wickham  Road,  Beckenham  ;  Mr.  J. 
Kirkwood,  Grass  Farm  House  Gardens,  Finchley  ;  and 
Mr.  W.  Iggulden,  Frome, 

For  twelve  Japanese,  distinct,  there  were  seven  entries, 
first  prize  bfting  well  won  by  Mr.  W.  Rigby,  Beckenham, 
with  an  excellent  dozen,  among  which  Mrs.  C.  H.  Totty, 
Mrs.  N.  Davis,  Mrs.  L.  Thorn  and  Lady  Talbot  specially 
appealed  to  us.  Second  prize  fell  to  Mr.  J.  Kirkwood, 
Finchley,  who  also  staged  some  excellent  specimens,  F.  S. 
Vallis  and  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller  being  particularly  good. 
Third,  fourth  and  fifth  prizes  were  won  in  the  order 
named  by  Mr.  W.  Mease,  Mr.  G.  Hall,  Romsey,  and  Mr.  Gt. 
Mileham,  Emlyn  House  Gardens,  Leatherhead. 

For  one  large  vase  of  five  Japanese  blooms,  white,  one 
variety  only,  there  were  five  entries,  Mr.  T.  J.  Broom, 
Guy's  House  Gardens,  Holyport,  being  first  with  Mrs. 
A.  T.  Miller ;  Mr.  H.  J.  Hedges,  Sydenham,  second,  with 
Mrs.  Norman  Davis  ;  Mr.  D.  Fairweather,  Canterbury, 
third,  with  Mrs.  R.  H.  E.  Marsham  ;  and  Mr.  G.  Mileham, 
fourth,  with  Mrs.  A.  T.  Millet. 

Iq  a  similar  class  for  yellow  flowers  there  were  only  two 
entries,  the  best  vase  being  shown  by  Mr.  D.  Fairweather, 
whose  variety  was  Mrs.  F.  S.  Vallis,  Mr.  W.  Iggulden, 
Frome,  being  second  with  Mrs.  W.  Iggulden. 

In  a  similar  class  for  any  colour  except  white  and  yellow, 
four  vases  were  staged,  the  best  blooms  being  some  good 
examples  of  Mme.  P.  Radaelli,  shown  by  Mr.  W.  Iggulden; 
Mr.  G.  Mileham  was  second  with  J.  Lock ;  Mr.  D.  Fair- 
weather,  third,  with  Reg.  Vallis  ;  and  Mr.  G.  Hall,  fourth, 
with  Miss  F.  W.  Vallis. 

For  twelve  incurved  blooms,  distinct,  there  were  three 
entries,  first  prize  being  won  in  good  style  by  Mr.  W. 
Mease,  Leatherhead,  for  an  even  though  rather  small  lot 
of  blooms,  Embleme  Poitevine  and  Clara  Wells  being  two 
of  the  best.  Second  and  third  prizes  went  respectively  to 
Mr.  W.  Higgs,  Leatherhead,  and  Mr.  J.  A.  Humphries, 
Fairford,  Gloucester. 

In  a  class  for  six  blooms,  incurved,  one  variety  only, 
there  were  five  entries,  Mr.  W.  Higgs  being  first  for  good 
examples  of  the  white  H.  W.  Thorpe.  Mr.  G.  Hunt,  Epsom, 
was  second  with  Clara  Wells ;  Mr.  G.  Mileham,  third,  with 
the  rich  yellow  Buttercup ;  and  Mr.  W.  Mease,  fourth,  with 
Romance. 

Mr.  J.  H.  Humphries,  Hill  House  Gardens,  Maisey 
Hampton,  Fairford,  Gloucester,  was  the  only  exhibitor  in 
a  class  for  six  vases  of  disbudded  Chrysanthemums  as 
grown  for  market,  but  his  blooms  were  sufficiently  good  to 
secure  first  prize.  Money  Maker,  white,  and  Caprice  du 
Printemps,  bright  rose,  were  the  two  beat. 

For  twelve  large,  reflexed  blooms,  to  be  shown  on  boards, 
there  were  two  entries,  the  first-prize  collection  being 
shown  by  Mr.  T.  J.  Broom,  Guy's  House  Gardens,  Holyport, 
and  the  second  by  Mr.  J.  A.  Humphries. 

For  twenty-four  large  Anemone  blooms,  Japanese 
included,  eight  varieties,  there  were  three  entries,  the 
premier  award  going  to  Mr.  A.  C.  Horton,  North  Frith, 
Tonbridge,  who  had  a  beautiful  lot  of  flowers,  Mrs. 
Shimmins  and  Sir  W.  Raleigh  being  particularly  notice- 
able. Second  and  third  prizes  were  won  respectively  by 
Mr.  A.  Henderson,  Eccles  Hill,  Bromley,  and  Mr.  J.  A. 
Humphries. 

In  a  similar  class  for  twelve  blooms,  Japanese  excluded^ 
there  were  also  three  entries,  Mr.  A.  C.  Horton  again 
being  the  champion  with  well-grown  flowers.  Second  and 
third  honours  fell  respectively  to  Mr.  J.  A.  Humphries 
and  Mr.  A.  Henderson. 

There  were  also  three  entries  in  a  similar  class  for 
Japanese  Anemones,  Mr.  A.  C.  Horton  also  securing  the 
premier  position  here,  Mr.  J.  A,  Humphries  and  Mr.  A. 
Henderson  following  in  the  order  named. 

For  six  vases  of  Pompons  two  competitors  tried  con- 
clusions, Mr.  F.  Fitzwater,  Bushey  Lodge  Gardens, 
Teddington,  being  a  splendid  first  with  very  superior 
flowers.  Compte  de  Momey,  Mile.  Elise  Dordan  and 
Prince  of  Orange  were  superb.  Mr.  J.  A.  Humphries  was 
second  with  well-coloured  blooms,  the  yellow  W.  Sabey 
being  particularly  rich. 

In  a  similar  class  for  Anemone  Pompons,  Mr.  Fitzwater 
was  the  only  exhibitor  and  was  awarded  first  prize. 

The  class  for  twelve  vases  of  single  varieties,  distinct, 
brought  forth  only  two  entries,  the  beat  of  these  being 
shown  by  Mr.  F.  Brazier,  nurseryman,  Caterham,  who- 
staged  some  splendidly  grown  flowers.  Mary  Richardson, 
G.  Nottel  and  Charles  Graves  were  very  fine  indetd.  Mr. 
D.  Fairweather,  gardener  to  Marquess  Conyngham,  Bifrons,, 
Canterbury,  was  the  other  exhibitor  and  deservedly 
secured  second  prize,  his  fiowers  being  particularly  bright 
and  pleasingly  arranged,  these  being  a  batch  of  seedlings 
of  considerable  merit. 

In  a  similar  class  for  six  vases  there  were  three  com- 
petitors, first  prize  going  to  Mr.  T.  Stevenson,  Addlestone> 
for  a  beautiful  lot  of  well-grown  flowers.  Miss  E.  Cannell, 
Mary   Richardson,    White    E.    Pagram    and   Bronze   E- 


560 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  15,  1909. 


Pagrara  particalarly  attracting  our  attention.  Mr.  J.  A* 
Humphries  and  Mr.  ¥.  Brazier  followed  in  the  order 
named. 

Floral  Decorations.— Open  Classes. 

Six  tables  were  arranged  in  the  class  for  tables  of  yellow 
and  bronze  blooms  only,  first  honours  going  to  Mrs.  T.  W. 
Stevens,  Sydenham,  for  a  daintily  arranged  display. 
Second  prize  went  to  Miss  A.  Robinson,  Carshalton,  whoss 
table  also  showed  much  taste.  Mrs.  A.  D.  Ruff,  Sharn- 
brook,  Beds,  was  third. 

In  a  similar  class,  for  any  colour  blooms  other  than 
yellow  or  bronze,  competition  was  also  good,  the  first  prize 
and  also  the  piece  of  plate  offered  by  Mr.  Kelton  for  the 
best  table  in  the  above  two  classes  being  won  by  Blrs.  F. 
Brewster,  12,  St.  Peter's,  Canterbury,  who  had  a  very 
charming  design  of  white  decorative  and  Pompon  Chrysan- 
themums, Asparagus  plumosus  and  Vitis  inconstans.  Mr. 
r.  W.  Stevens  was  second  with  an  arrangement  of  crimson 
and  white  single  flowers,  Mrs.  W.  Webb  third,  and  Mrs.  F. 
Eobinson  fourth. 

For  two  vases  of  Pompon  or  Anemnne  Chrysanthemums 
arranged  with  foliage,  Mr.  J.  A.  Humphries  was  the  only 
exhibitor  and  was  awarded  first  prize. 

For  a  large  vase  of  single  Chrysanthemums,  mixed 
shades  of  white  varieties,  arranged  with  any  foliage  for 
effect,  there  were  four  entries,  the  prizes  being  won  in  the 
order  named  by  Mr.  F.  G.  Oliver.  Mr.  J.  A.  Humphries  and 
Mr.  E.  Dennis,  Pollards  Park  Gardens,  ChalfontSt.  Giles. 

In  a  similar  class  for  mixed  ehades  of  yellow  or  bronze 
the  prizes  were  won  respectively  by  Mr.  J.  W.  Harrison, 
Sydenham,  Mr.  F.  G.  Oliver  and  Mr.  E.  Dennis. 

For  a  vase  of  mixed  shades  of  pink,  single  varieties, 
there  were  four  entries,  the  prizes  going  to  the  following 
in  the  order  given  :  Mr.  J.  W.  Harrison,  Mr.  F.  G.  Oliver 
and  Mr.  E.  Dennis. 

For  one  large  vase  of  single,  spidery,  or  thread-petalled 
Chrysanthemums,  with  any  foliage,  there  were  two  entries, 
Mr.  F.  G.  Oliver,  Tollington  Park,  N.,  being  first  and  Mr. 
J.  A.  Humphries  second. 

For  a  basket  of  natural  autumn  foliage  or  berries,  Miss 
J.  Martin,  0,  Lancaster  Road,  South  Norwood,  was  first 
out  of  three  competitors,  Mrs.  F.  Brewster,  12,  St.  Peter's, 
Canterbury,  and  Mr.  J.  A.  Humphries  following  in  the 
order  named. 

Amateur  Classes.— Cut  Blooms. 

For  eighteen  Japanese,  distinct,  there  were  two  entries, 
Mr.  "W.  Rigby  being  first  and  Mr.  E.  Dennis,  Chalfont  St. 
Giles,  second. 

For  twelve  Japanese,  distinct,  competition  was  good, 
first  prize  going  to  Mr.  W.  Rigby,  Beckenham,  Mr.  W. 
Hulton,  Dulwich,  and  Mr.  T.  W.  Stevens,  Sydenham, 
following  in  the  order  named. 

Some  of  the  other  amateurs'  classes  were  moderately 
well  contested,  but  lack  of  space  prevents  detailed 
mention  of  these. 

Fruit  and  Vec.etable  Classes. 

For  three  bunches  of  black  Grapes  (not  Gros  Colmar), 
Mr.  A.  C.  Horton,  North  Frith,  Tonbridge,  was  first  with 
large  and  well-finished  bunches  of  Mrs.  Pince's  Muscat. 
Second  prize  went  to  Mr.  W.  Lintott,  Morden  Park 
Gardens,  Caterbam,  for  splendid  bunches  of  Alicante,  and 
third  prize  was  won  by  Mr.  W.  Howe,  Streatham  Common, 
who  also  showed  Alicante. 

For  three  bunches  of  Gros  Colmar  Grapes  there  were 
two  entries,  Mr.  A.  C.  Horton  being  first  and  Mr.  W. 
Howe  second. 

For  six  dishes  of  dessert  Apples,  Mr.  W.  Lintott  was 
the  only  exhibitor,  and  was  awarded  first  prize  for  a 
moderately  good  group.  Mr.  J.  Clement,  Cummonwood 
House  Gardens,  near  Chipperfield,  was  the  only  exhibitor 
of  six  dishes  of  culinary  Apples,  and  received  first  prize. 

There  were  three  entries  in  the  class  for  six  dishes  of 
■dessert  Pears,  first  prize  going  to  Mr.  A.  C.  Horton  for  a 
very  fine  collection  indeed.  Second  and  third  prizes  were 
won  respectively  by  Mr.  H.  C.  Gardner,  Ruxley  Lodge 
Gardens,  Claygate,  and  Mr.  W.  Lintott. 

Three  exhibitors  entered  for  Messrs.  Webb  and  Sons' 
prizes,  offered  for  a  collection  of  vegetables,  Mr.  E. 
Beckett,  gardener  to  the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs,  Aldenham 
House,  Elstree,  being  first;  Mr.  A.  Baeile,  Woburn  Park 
Gardens,  Weybridge,  second;  Mr.  W,  Waterton,  Heath 
Farm  House  Gardens,  third,  and  only  about  one  point 
behind  the  second-prize  winner. 

The  prizes  offered  for  vegetables  by  Messrs.  Robert 
•Sydenham,  Limited,  were,  as  usual,  well  contested,  some 
very  fine  displays  of  high-class  vegetables  being  made. 

Miscellaneous  Exhibits. 

Pride  of  position  belongs  to  H.  J.  Jones's  Nurseries, 
Limited,  Lewisham  and  Keston,  for  a  superb  group  of  cut 
blooms,  disposed  in  delightful  fashion  in  large  Bamboo 
stands,  ornamental  vases  and  other  receptacles  This 
^oup  was  set  up  and  occupied  the  whole  of  the  front  of 
the  huge  orchestra  of  the  Crystal  Palace,  and  was  the  most 
•conspicuous  feature  of  the  show.  Besides  exhibition 
blooms  there  were  charming  representations  of  the  decora- 
tive and  single  varieties.  This  was  a  most  artistic  creation, 
and  won  the  large  gold  medal  as  well  as  the  gold  medal 
■offered  by  Messrs.  Clay  and  Sons  for  the  best  miscellaneous 
•exhibit  iu  the  show. 

A  large  gold  medal  was  also  won  by  Mr.  Norman  Davis, 
Framfleld,  fur  a  beautiful  group  of  cut  blooms  set  up 
artistically  by  this  well-known  grower.  Large  stands  of 
grand  exhibition  varieties,  such  as  Mias  Lillian  Hall,  Mrs. 
N.  Davis,  Lady  Edward  LetL-hworth,  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller  and 
George  Hemming,  were  largely  represented,  and  well 
deserved  the  recoEuition  this  grand  exhibit  received. 

Mr.  Philip  Ladds,  Swanley  Junction,  Kent,  set  up  a 
handsome  oval  group  of  the  better  market  varieties,  among 
which  were  interspersed  Ferns,  Palms  and  other  foliage 
plants  for  effect.  This  was  a  splendii  effort  for  a  market 
grower,  and  well  deserved  the  gold  medal  awarded. 


A  similar  award  was  made  to  Messrs.  H.  Cannell  and 
Sons,  Swanley,  for  a  long  and  comprehensive  table  group, 
which  included  splendid  singles,  exhibition  and  decorative 
varieties  and  a  fine  array  of  Zonal  Pelargoniums. 

Mr.  W.  J.  Godfrey,  Exmouth,  Devon,  pinned  his  faith 
to  the  large  exhibition  blooms  and  a  pleasing  array  of 
single  varieties.  This  was  a  large  table  group  and  in- 
cluded all  the  leading  sorts.    Gold  medal. 

A  gold  medal  was  also  awarded  to  Messrs.  W.  Wells  and 
Co.,  Limited,  Merstham,  Surrey,  for  a  superb  group  of 
singles,  represented  by  splendidly  grown  plants. 

An  eiceediniilyprettydisplayof  market  Chrysanthemums 
was  made  by  a  large  group  of  well-grown  plants  grown  in 
5-inch  pots,  and  bearing  nine  to  a  dozen  or  more  really 
good  flowers,  by  Messrs.  Butler  Brothers,  Bexley  Heatli. 
The  plants  revealed  splendid  cultural  skill,  and  the 
exhibit  was  an  attraction  to  many  visitors.  Silver-gilt 
medal. 

Mr.  Frank  Brazier,  Caterham,  Surrey,  made  an  in- 
teresting exhibit  of  Chrysanthemums  and  Michaelmas 
Daisies  in  a  pretty  group.    Silver  medal. 

Messrs.  John  Laing  and  Sons,  Forest  Hill,  S.E.,  set  up  a 
triple  group  of  crested  single  Begonias  that  were  highly 
meritorious  for  so  late  in  the  year. 

A  large  silver  medal  was  well  won  by  Mr.  H.  W.  Thorp, 
Durrington,  Worthing,  for  a  large  table  group  of  Japanese 
and  incurved  varieties  of  exhibition  standard.  Large 
silver  medaL 

Mr.  J.  Williams,  Ealing,  W.,  displayed  in  pleasing 
fashion  his  numerous  rustic  devices  for  setting  up  Howers 
artisticaily,  using  Chrysanthemums  for  this  purpose. 

A  large  silver  medal  was  awarded  to  Messrs'.  J.  Peed  and 
Son,  Rftupell  Park  Nurseries,  West  Norwood,  for  a  capital 
collection  of  Apples  and  Pears  that  were  very  good  for  the 
season.  A  similar  award  was  made  to  the  same  firm  for 
a  group  of  Chrysanthemums  set  up  in  pleasing  fashion 
on  the  floor  in  front  of  the  large  organ.  Several  types 
were  represented,  and  the  display  was  a  welcome  one. 

A  silver-gilt  medal  for  British-grown  fruit  was  rightly 
awarded  to  Messrs.  H.  Cannell  and  Sons,  Swanley,  for  a 
superb  display  embracing  a  very  large  array  of  Apples  and 
Pears.  For  the  season  the  fruits  were  remarkably  good. 
Colour,  flavour  and  general  quality  were  all  that  one  could 
desire. 

The  exhibit  of  the  British  Columbian  Government  was 
a  good  one,  boxes  of  Apples  meriting  the  praise  of  most 
visitors.    Silver-gilt  medal. 

Hobbies,  Limited,  Dereham,  made  another  of  their 
attractive  displays  of  cut  Roses  and  Roses  in  pots.  Con- 
sidering the  season  the  display  was  highly  meritorious. 
Hybrid  Teas,  Polyantha  and  other  Roses  were  reminders 
of  the  past  summer  season.    Silver-gilt  medal. 

Carnations  from  Messrs.  John  Peed  and  Sons,  West 
Norwood,  won  a  silver  medal.  The  blooms  were  well 
grown  and  well  set  up  in  stately  vases. 

Rustic  chairs,  arches,  garden  seats.  Rose  poles  and 
garden  sundries  were  comprehensively  displayed  by  Messrs. 
H.  Scott  and  Sons,  Woodside,  S.E.  This  was  an  excellent 
exhibit  and  well  merited  the  siiver-gilt  medal  awarded. 

A  silver  medal  was  won  by  Mr.  G.  W.  Riley,  Heme  Hill, 
London,  S.E.,  for  a  large  group  of  rustic  work,  greenhouses 
and  general  garden  uteu&ils.  There  was  much  to  admire 
in  the  numerous  devices  in  chairs,  garden  seats,  &e. 

Sundries  from  other  firms  were  also  good,  including 
Messrs.  D.  Dowel  and  Son,  J.  Haws,  Michael  Rains, 
Limited,  H.  Pattisson  and  Co.,  Ichthemic  Guano  Company, 
Alfred  Berk  and  Co.,  G.  Cook  and  others. 

New  Chrysanthemums. 

The  floral  committee  of  the  National  Chrysanthemum 
Society  met  at  the  Crystal  Palace  on  Wednesday,  Novem- 
ber 4,  Mr.  D.  B.  Crane  presiding.  There  was  a  good 
array  of  novelties,  but  only  six  of  them  received  the 
much-coveted  first-class  certificate.  Ihe  varieties  were 
as  follows : 

3[rs.  CoUe.-i.—This  large  single  variety  was  appreciated 
for  its  lovely  colour,  which  the  committee  deecribed  as 
crushed  strawberry.  The  flowers  are  of  good  form,  though 
rather  flimsy  in  our  estimation.  For  exhibition  purposes 
and  for  use  under  artificial  Ught  it  should  be  much  in 
demand.  Shown  by  Mr.  H.  Redden,  Manor  House 
Gardens,  West  Wickham. 

(jfco.  Hemming.— This  is  a  beautiful  exhibition  Japanese 
recurved  bloom  of  considerable  promise.  It  is  of  good 
proportions  in  depth  and  in  breadth,  having  petals  of 
medium  width  that  recurve  in  even  form.  Colour,  rosy 
claret  —  a  colour  much  needed— with  silvery  reverse. 
Shown  by  Mr.  George  Mileham,  Emlyn  House  Gardens, 
Leatherbead. 

Mrs.  B.  LxixforiL—K  neatly  built  Japanese  recurved 
bloom  of  charming  form,  having  medium  petals  of  good 
substance.  Colour,  bright  chestnut  with  golden  reverse. 
Although  this  was  certificated  as  a  market  variety, 
the  blooms  can  be  grown  quite  large  enough  for  exhibition. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  W.  Wells  and  Co.,  Limited,  Merstham, 
Surrey. 

Frances  JolUfi\—A.  very  large  and  fairly  attractive 
Japanese  bloom  of  exhibition  standard,  having  very  long 
petals  of  medium  width,  curling  and  twisting  and  slightly 
incurving  at  the  ends.  Colour,  straw  yellow,  shaded 
aud  lined  pale  rose.  Shown  by  Mr.  Martin  Silsbury, 
Shanklin,  Isle  of  Wight. 

J.  H.  Gre.sivald  Williams. — Another  large  single  variety, 
having  several  rows  of  fairly  broad  petals  well  disposed 
round  a  not  over-large  disc.  Colour,  bright  yellow.  Shown 
by  Mr.  H.  Tribe,  The  Gardens,  Bradenbury  Court  Gardens, 
Bromyard,  Worcester. 

P/iosphoresance. — This  is  a  free-flowering  market  variety 
of  more  than  ordinary  promise.  The  blooms  are  of  good 
form  and  of  medium  size,  and  the  habit  of  the  plant 
is  bushy  and  dwarf.  For  decorative  uses  this  is  a  distinct 
acquisition.    Shown  by  Messrs.  Wells  and  Co.,  Limited. 


NATIONAL  AMATEUR  GARDENERS'  ASSOCIATION. 
On  Tuesday,  November  2,  at  this  society's  meeting  at 
Winchester  House,  Old  Broad  Street,  T.  W.  Sanders,  Esq., 
F.L  S.,  in  the  chair,  Mr.  Chas.  T.  Druery,  V.M.H.,  F.L.S., 
gave  an  interesting  lecture  on  "Our  Wonderful  World." 
Opening  with  an  apology  for  the  necessarily  superficial 
way  in  which  so  vast  a  subject  could  be  dealt  with  in  a 
single  short  lecture,  he  stated  that  his  object  was  rather 
to  induce  increased  attention  to  the  innumerable  marvels 
underlying  all  the  familiar  things  around  us,  and  whose 
very  familiarity  was  apt  to  lead,  not  indeed  to  contempt, 
but  to  an  entire  ignoring  of  their  truly  wonderful  nature. 
He  divided  his  subject  into  four  heads,  viz.,  the  air,  the 
earth,  the  ocean  and,  the  most  interesting  one  of  all.  the 
life  which  existed  in  each.  The  air  he  described  as 
practically  forming  a  vast  and  profound  ocean,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  we  lived  under  an  immense  pressure, 
which  we  did  not  feel  because  it  was  counterbalanced  by 
an  equal  pressure  from  within.  He  described  its  coroposi- 
Uon,  gaseous  and  aqueous,  and  how  it  resembled  the 
watery  ocean  in  its  currents  and  whirlpools,  though  these 
latter  were  on  a  vastly  greater  scale.  Next  he  dwelt  upon 
the  accepted  history  of  the  evolution  of  a  solid,  habitable 
world  from  a  nebulous  celestial  mist,  and  the  stages 
through  which  is  must  have  passed  ere  it  became  as  we 
now  know  it,  alluding  to  the  variety  of  the  rocks  which 
compose  its  crust  and  the  history  which  these  rocks 
unfold  to  the  geologist  and  associated  scientists.  The 
oceans,  all  of  which  were  practically  one,  were  next 
touched  upon,  and  the  manner  was  described  in  which  the 
great  circulatory  system  was  maintained,  the  tropical 
water  sweeping  north  and  south  as  vapour  and  returning 
by  way  of  glaciers  and  rivers  to  the  sea  to  form  a  slow, 
returning  bottom  current,  cold  as  ice,  to  their  tropical 
source.  The  final  theme  of  the  life  existing  in  all  three 
realms,  and  how  it  was  solved  from  simple  beginnings  to 
the  innumerable  forms  with  which  we  are  more  or  leas 
familiar,  was  concluded  by  an  allusion  to  perhaps  the 
most  wonderful  feature  of  all,  viz.,  that  the  only  link 
between  the  sun,  the  immediate  source  of  all  vitality,  and 
this  world  of  ours  was  chlorophyll,  the  tiny  green 
granules  pervading  all  foliage  and  which  alone  were 
capable  of  utilising  the  sunbeam  and  transforming  by 
virtue  of  its  energy  the  inorganic  salts  of  the  earth  and 
the  carbonic  acid  of  the  air  into  all  the  foods  and 
essentials  of  humanity  and  the  animal  world  generally. 
A  hearty  vote  of  thanks  was  accorded  the  lecturer. 

KENT    COUNTY    CHRYSANTHEMUM    SOCIETY.  . 

This  was  not  quite  such  an  extensive  show  as  we  have 
usually  seen,  but  there  were  some  remarkably  fine  blooms 
and  some  good  miscellaneous  exhibits.  It  was  unfortunate 
that  the  society  was  unable  to  hold  the  show  at  its 
usual  (juarters,  and  had  to  have  it  at  the  Sportsbank  Hall, 
Catford,  which  is  quite  out  of  the  ordinary  run  of  traffic, 
the  attendance  being  consequently  small.  This  was  unfor- 
tunate both  for  the  society  and  those  who  put  up  non- 
ci:)mpetitive  groups. 

Messrs.  Cannell  and  Sons  sent  from  their  Eynsford 
nurseries  a  splendid  collection  of  fruit,  consisting  of  over- 
100  varieties,  all  of  tbe  best  quality,  Apples  being  the 
leading  feature.    Pears  were  also  well  shown. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  exhibited  a  fine  col- 
lection of  fruits  and  vegetables,  all  of  which  showed  the 
highest  quality  and  were  displayed  to  the  best  advantage. 

Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and  Sons,  Chelsea,  made  a  large 
exhibit  of  foliage  and  flowering  plants,  which  included 
many  choice  novelties. 

Taking  the  competitive  classes,  there  was  only  one 
exhibit  for  the  president's  prizes— eight  Japanese,  eight 
incurved  and  eight  Japanese  reflexed ;  but  this  was  a  good 
exhibit,  and  came  from  H.  F.  Tiarks,  Esq.,  who  was  also 
one  of  the  most  successful  exhibitors  in  several  other 
classes. 

The  vase  classes  were  well  contested.  C.  J.  Wittington, 
Esq.,  was  first  for  two  vases  of  two  varieties,  three  blooms 
of  each.  For  four  vases,  decorative  varieties,  S.  Palgrave, 
Esq.,  came  first. 

There  was  no  competition  for  the  groups  of  Chrysanthe- 
mums in  pots,  and  for  the  group  of  flowering  and  foliage 
plants  there  was  only  one ;  this  came  from  air.  Tiarks, 
who  has  been  first  in  this  class  for  many  years. 

Id  the  class  for  eighteen  Japanese  and  eighteen  incurved, 
H.  Bennett,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  E.  Dove),  was  first. 

For  twelve  Japanese  varieties,  W.  W,  Mann,  Esq. 
(gardener,  Mr.  J.  Simon),  came  first  with  very  fiine  blooms. 

For  the  class  for  twenty-four  Japanese  blooms,  eight 
varieties,  three  of  each,  for  which  a  silver  cup  was  offered 
and  £2,  the  gardener  of  the  donor  of  the  cup  (Mr.  J.  Rosselli) 
took  first  prize.  S.  Palgrave,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  E. 
Brown),  was  also  a  good  exhibitor. 

J.  C.  Geischbrecht,  Esq.  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  D.  Judge), 
was  another  successful  exhibitor. 

For  premier  blooms  Mrs.  L.  Thorn,  from  S.  P.  Page,  Esq., 
secured  first  honours  for  the  Japanese  ;  and  Mrs.  Hygate, 
from  H.  Bennett,  Esq.,  for  the  best  incurved. 

There  were  some  good  exhibits  in  the  ladies'  decorative 
classes.  Miss  C.  Warwick,  Mrs.  E.  Barton,  Mrs.  Hollands 
and  Mrs.  Hobbs  being  among  the  successful  competitors. 


REDHILL    AND    REIGATE     GARDENERS'    MUTUAL 

IMPROVEMENT  ASSOCIATION. 
The  members  of  the  Redhill,  Reigate  and  District 
Gardeners'  Mutual  Improvement  Association  held  the 
third  of  their  winter  meetings  in  the  PenrhjTi  Hall  on 
Tuesday,  October  2U.  Mr.  Herbert  took  the  chair, 
supported  by  Mr.  G.  Kemp.  The  attendance  was  small 
owing  to  the  rough  weather.  Mr.  Salmon  of  Wye  College 
gave  a  very  interesting  illustrated  lecture  on  spraying 
and  its  advantages,  dealing  with  fungi  of  all  descriptions. 
The  meeting  terminated  with  the  usual  vote  of  thanks. 


GARDEN. 


No.  1983.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


November  20,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


Plants  for  a  Small 
Greenhouse  in 
Winter      

A  Daffodil  show  in 
New  South  Wales   . . 

I4  0TES  OF  THE  WEEK 

Forthcoming  events 

COBSESPOin>BIiaB 

Amateur  gardening  for 
proftt    

fiBEENHOUSE 

Cultivation  of  Mal- 
maison  Carnations 

Lielio-Cattieya 
Pizarro  Westonbirt 
variety 

EITOHEN  aABSEN 

The     winter     Cauli- 
flower   and    Broc- 
coli supply    ..     ,. 
Trees  and  Shrubs 
The    Tamarisks    for 
inland  planting    . . 
tuQiT  Garden 
A   good  early  Pear ; 
Dr.  Jules  Guyot  . . 
Floweb  Gabden 
May  -  flowering     or 
Cottage  Tulips     . . 
Sweet  Pea  chat 


66 1 


666 


666 


667 


Floweb  Oabden 
A     garden     quickly 

made       

Colodred  Plate 
Primula  viscosa  and 
its  varieties    , .     . . 
Rose  Garden 
Notes    on    newer 

Roses. — IX 

GABDERlna  fOR  Beqinhers 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 668 

Forcing  Rhubarb    . .    668 
Parsley    for    the 

winter      569 

THE  Town  Gardes  ..    669 
Gabdenihs  of  the  Week 
For  the   South   and 

South  Midlands   . .    670 
For  the  North    and 
North  Midlands  ..    570 

New  plants 570 

Editor's  Table      ..     ..    670 

Books     571 

Answers     to    Cobbe- 

spondents 

Flower  garden  . .     . .    671 

Trees  and  shrubs     . .    572 

Miscellaneous  ..     ..    572 

SOOIETIES        672 


ILLrUSTRATIONS. 

A  new  Orchid 5G3 

Pear  Dr.  Jules  Guyot     . .     . .    565 

Part  of  Mr.  Boycott's  rock  garden  and  Water  Lily  pond  666 
Peakland  garden  :  View  on  lawn  looking  west  . .  . .  566 
Primula  viscosa  Mrs.  J.  H.  Wilson  . .  . .  Coloured  plate 
Peakland  garden  :  Chrysanthemum  maximum  . .  . .  567 
Forcing  Rhubarb 668,  569 


BDITORIALi    NOTICES. 

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relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  zoish  advice  fr<ym 
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the  "Answers  to  Correspondents"  colum/ns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  commnunications  must  be  wHtten  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  na/me  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  and  notes, 
but  he  urill  not  be  respmisible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  loill  be  taken,  and,  where  stamps 
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contributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproductuyii  be 
plainly  stated.  It  rmist  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  optical  photographer  or  moner  of  the  copyright  vrUl  be 
treated  vnth.  

The  Editor  vnll  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literwry  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
a/nd  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
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wiU  alone  be  recognised  as  accepta/nce. 


oaicea:  SO,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C> 


PLANTS  FOR  A  SMALL 
GREENHOUSE  IN 
WINTER. 

WHEN  first  I  undertook  the  care 
of  a  large  garden  (chiefly 
herbaceous)  and  a  small  green- 
house, it  was  a  great  problem  to 
me  how  I  could  keep  the  latter 
always  looking  nice  and  gay ;  but  having  for 
many  years  now  solved  the  difficulty  very 
successfully,  I  will  give  the  benefit  of  my 
experience.  About  the  middle  or  end  of 
September,  when  the  summer  beauties  of  the 
greenhouse  are  over,  when  Begonias,  Coleus, 
Lobelia  and  other  plants  mu5t  be  taken  down 
and  stored  elsewhere,  the  greenhouse  should  be 
emptied  and  thoroughly  cleaned  preparatory  to 
putting  in  the  winter  plants.  If  the  staging  on 
one  side  can  be  temporarily  moved  away,  it  will 
enable  one  to  mike  finer  effects  with  the 
Chrysanthemums,  arranging  them  in  gradations 
of  height  from  the  ground. 

The  small  greenhouse  being  the  only  available 
place  for  keeping  such  things  as  need  protection 
from  frost,  it  is  almost  inevitable  that  it  should 
be  somewhat  more  crowded  than  is  good,  nor 
must  it  be  kept  at  all  warmer  than  is  absolutely 
necessary  ;  from  these  two  causes  I  have  found  it 
practically  impossible  to  grow  those  things  which 
require  a  special  amount  of  air  and  space,  such 
as  Carnations,  Pelargoniums  of  the  show  section 
and  Cinerarias,  or  those  which  require  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  heat  to  grow  them  really 
well,  like  the  winter-flowering  Begonias. 

I  will  give,  in  order  of  rotation,  the  plants 
which  I  have  found  most  successful : 

Chrysanthemums  grown  from  cuttings  taken  in 
January  and  planted  out  all  the  summer  in  full 
sunshine  should  be  good  bushy  plants  ready  to 
lift  carefully  in  September  and  bring  into  the 
greenhouse  early  in  October.  The  varieties 
should  be  selected  with  care,  so  that  one  may 
have  a  succession  of  bloom  from  early  October 
right  up  to  Christmas.  A  preponderance  of 
white  and  yellow,  with  a  few  darker  colours,  will 
be  most  effective. 

Salvia  splendens  should  be  raised  from 
seed  or  cuttings  in  early  spring,  grown  in  pots 
and  stood  in  the  open  in  full  sunshine  all  the 
summer,  with  plentiful  supplies  of  water  and  of 
liquid  manure.  All  the  flower-buds  should  be 
carefully  nipped  out  until  about  the  beginning  ot 
September.  They  will  then  give  a  blaze  of 
scarlet  flowers  for  many  weeks  when  brought 
into  the  greenhouse  in  October. 

Schizostylis  (■oei:mea. — These  bulbs  are  best 
grown  in  a  moist,  shady  spot  all  the  summer,  and 
if  lifted  and  potted  about  the  end  of  August,  make 
a  beautiful  show  in  the  greenhouse  for  October. 

Primula. — Primula  sinensis  should  be  raised 
from  seed  early  in  the  year  and  grown  in  a  cold 
frame  during  the  summer.     These  should  make  ' 


good  plants,  which  will  just  be  coming  into  bloom 
in  October  and  will  last  in  beauty  for  many 
months.  A  number  of  these  in  various  shades  of 
pink,  red  and  white  look  beautiful  on  the  raised 
staging  of  the  greenhouse,  or,  if  on  the  flat, 
raise  some  of  your  plants  by  standing  them  on 
inverted  flower-pots.  The  taller  forms  of 
Primula,  such  as  stellata,  are  not  suitable  tor  a 
small  house,  as  they  take  up  too  much  space ;  but 
a  few  plants  of  the  lovely  yellow  P.  kewensis  and 
P.  floribunda  make  a  pleasing  variety  and  are 
never  without  blooms. 

Zonal  Pelargoniums  (popularly  called  Gera- 
niums).— These  ever-welcome  flowers  can  be  had 
in  bloom  most  of  the  winter  by  bringing  up  some 
plants  with  a  special  view  to  this.  They  should 
be  stood  in  full  sunshine  all  the  summer,  kept 
carefully  watered  and  all  the  flower-buds  picked 
out  six  or  eight  weeks  before  they  are  wanted. 
Treated  thus  the  plants  will  give  plenty  of 
bloom  through  the  winter  if  they  are  given  a 
sunny  place  in  the  greenhouse. 

At  the  end  of  December  one  is  generally  in 
want  of  white  flowers  ;  and  to  supply  this  want 
nothing  is  so  useful,  I  find,  as  a  few  of  the  plants 
which  are  now  so  successfully  retarded.  If  one 
can  get  half-a-dczen  clumps  of  Spiraja  japoniea, 
a  few  potfuls  of  Lily  of  the  Valley  and  a  dozen 
good  bulbs  of  the  grand  Lilium  auratum  and  L. 
longiflorum,  all  of  which  answer  so  well  to  the 
system  of  retarding,  the  greenhouse  will  be  well 
provided  with  white  flowers  for  Christmas,  for  one 
can  time  these  plants  almost  to  a  day  by  following 
the  directions  usually  sent  out  with  them. 

Cyclamen. — Another  set  of  plants  easily  raised 
from  seed  sown  in  .January ;  they  require 
scarcely  any  heat,  and  give  very  little  trouble  to 
the  grower ;  they  will  only  be  small  plants  tho 
first  season,  but  should  yield  abundance  of  bloom 
the  second  and  third  years. 

Coleus  thynoideus. — This  delightful  plant 
should  be  raised  from  cuttings  each  spring  ;  they 
can  be  made  from  the  old  wood  when  the  plants 
have  finished  blooming,  or  from  the  new  shoots 
which  break  out  after  the  plant  is  out  down. 
The  young  plants  should  be  hardened  out  of 
doors  (in  pots)  all  the  summer,  given  water 
and  liquid  manure  freely,  shortened  back  to  keep 
them  good  bushy  plants,  and  placed  near 
the  glass  when  they  are  brought  in.  They  begin 
to  flower  in  January,  and  their  lovely  spikes  of 
gentian  blue  seem  to  increase  in  size  and  beauty 
every  week,  lasting  quite  into  April.  An  invalu- 
able plant  for  the  small  greenhouse. 

Hyarinths  and  T^ilips  are  most  effective  and 
easily  grown.  By  potting  in  August  or  September, 
kept  in  the  cool  and  in  the  dark  for  eight  or  ten 
weeks,  then  gradually  introduced  to  light  and 
warmth,  they  are  very  welcome  additions  to  the 
house  in  .January  and  February. 

Freeaias  and  early  flowering  Gladiuli  (G. 
Adonis  and  G.  The  Bride)  treated  in  the  same 
way,  six  or  eight  bulbs  in  a  pot,  will  also  come  in 
well  for  the  early  spring  months. 

Azalea, — A  few  good  plants  of  Azalea  indica 
are  of  great  effect  and  beauty,  and  can  easily  bo 
made  room  for  after  the  Chrysanthemums  are 
over.  They  will  last  in  bloom  for  two  or  thiee 
months,  but  must  be  carefully  watered. 

Iinan/ophyl/um — These  handsome  plants  aie 
easily  grown,  and  have  an  excellent  effect  with 


562 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  20,  1909. 


their  sword-shaped  leaves  and  large  heads  of 
Bftlmon  red  flowers,  which  come  into  bloom  about 
March. 

Genista  Jragrans  must  not  be  left  out  of  the 
collection,  both  on  account  of  its  brilliant  yellow 
colour  and  its  delicious  scent. 

Narcissi. — These  bulbs  do  not  bear  very  hard 
forcing,  and  the  easiest  and  best  way  of  using 
them  for  a  small  greenhouse  is  to  lift  some 
clumps  from  the  open  ground  when  they  first 
appear,  keep  them  in  a  cool  frame  for  a  time, 
and  when  their  flower-buds  are  well  up  bring 
them  into  the  house  and  place  near  the  glass. 
The  earlier  sorts,  such  as  Golden  Spur,  Horslieldii, 
Empress  and  Mme.  Plemp,  are  the  best. 

Arum  Lily  (Calla). — This  must  be  found  room 
for  if  possible.  It  requires  no  heat,  properly 
speaking,  merely  protection  from  frost,  and  if 
the  eorms  are  planted  out  in  the  open  (in  shade) 
for  the  summer,  I  find  they  make  stronger  and 
healthier  plants  than  if  they  are  dried  off.  They 
should  be  given  an  abundant  supply  of  water. 

Dielytra  spectahilis  (Dioentra)  is  a  plant  which 
forces  very  readily,  and  a  few  pots  of  this  are 
verv  showy  in  the  spring  months. 

Heaths  ( Erica)  make  a  very  pleasing  variety  of 
foliage  and  their  flowers  are  always  pretty.  One 
of  the  best  and  most  easily  grown  is  E.  hyemalis. 
Besides  all  these  plants,  which  I  am  sure  will 
keep  the  greenhouse  gay  for  quite  seven  months, 
there  are  many  little  things  one  may  add  here 
and  there  to  fill  in  odd  corners,  such  as  the 
pretty  little  pink  and  rose  coloured  Oxalis,  the 
yellow  Celsia  Areturus,  which  goes  on  giving  us 
spikes  of  flowers  continuously,  some  pots  of  the 
lovely  little  blue  Soilla  sibirioa,  and  Chionodoxa 
Lueiliie  to  follow  it.  These  and  many  others 
are  sure  to  suggest  themselves  to  lovers  of 
flowers,  as  they  pick  up  ideas  here  and  there  from 
what  they  see  in  their  friends'  greenhouses  or 
from  what  they  read  in  gardening  papers. 

Do  not  overlook  the  great  importance  of  tidi- 
ness and  of  good  arrangement — dead  flowers  and 
decaying  leivea  will  spoil  the  effect  of  any  green- 
house— and  these  details  should  be  well  looked 
after  ;  all  the  flower-pots,  too,  should  be  care- 
fully washed  and  dried  before  being  used. 

As  to  arrangement,  each  individual  will  have 
his  own  views ;  but  to  get  the  best  effect  great 
care  must  be  taken  to  group  the  plants  in  respect 
to  height,  with  due  regard  to  combination  of 
colours,  and  much  pleasing  variety  can  be  made 
by  the  diversity  of  foliage,  helped  out  by  some 
"■•od  pots  of  Maiden-hair  and  other  easily  grown 
Ferns.  S.  C.  R. 


A  DAFFODIL  SHOW  IN  NEW 
SOUTH  WALES. 

The  recent  Daffodil  show  of  the  Horticultural 
Society  of  New  South  Wales,  held  in  St.  James's 
Hall,  Sydney,  on  August  26,  190!t,  afforded 
ample  evidence  that,  even  though  the  Sydney 
climate  is  not  an  ideal  one  for  the  cultivation  of 
ttese  charming  Amaryllids,  their  admirers  are 
increasing  in  numbers  and  the  gardening  public 
as  a  whole  is  taking  a  larger  and  more  intelli- 
gent interest  in  their  culture  and  development. 

A  Daffodil  committee  has  recently  been 
formed  somewhat  on  the  lines  of  that  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society,  with  the  object  of 
arousing  and  maintaining  interest,  afi'jrding 
information  and  issuing  certificates  for  meri- 
torious productions.  So  far  the  only  certificate 
awarded  was  to  Mr.  H.  H.  B.  Bradley,  hon. 
secretary  of  the  society,  for  a  seedling  Tazetta 
of  special  excellence  and  exceptional  earliness, 
the  latter  quality  being  of  primary  importance 
in  a  climate  where,  on  account  of  the  prevalent 
hot  winds,  any  Narcissus  whose  flowering  season 
is  later  than  that  of,  say,  Emperor  is  of  question- 
able .falue.  The  variety  j  ust  referred  to  was  raised 
by  crossing  Apollo  or  Gloriosa  with  pollen  of 
iLCDmparabilis  John  Bull  (see  the  raiser's  notes 
on  page  3SS  of  the  Report  of  the  Royal  Horti- 


cultural Society  on  the  Third  International 
('jnferenoe  on  Genetics,  190(i).  In  consequence 
of  prolonged  seasons  of  drought  extending  over 
the  growing  periods  of  several  past  Daffodil 
seasons  in  New  South  Wales,  the  blooms 
exhibited  were  not  on  the  whole  particularly 
fine  ;  but  careful  attention  to  detail  and  a  large 
number  of  exhibits  helped  to  render  the  show  by 
far  the  best  of  the  kind  yet  held  in  this  State. 

It  is  especially  pleasing  to  note  that  locally 
raised  seedlings  are  beginning  to  make  themselves 
felt,  and  still  more  so  in  that  many  of  them  show 
a  tendency  to  bloom  earlier  than  their  parents. 
Judging  by  results  to  date,  there  can  be  little 
doubt  that  the  hope  of  the  Australian  Daffjdil- 
grower  must  rest  largely  on  these  local  seedlings, 
which,  in  view  of  their  earlier-blooming  season, 
should  afford  invaluable  material  for  exhibition 
purposes  sufficiently  early  in  the  season  to  avoid 
the  disastrous  results  of  the  hot  winds,  which 
may  generally  be  looked  for  early  in  September. 

A  very  fine  series  of  seedlings  have  been  exhi- 
bited by  Mr.  Bradley  during  the  present  season, 
more  especially  in  early  white  and  yellow 
trumpets,  and  it  would  be  a  matter  of  consider- 
able interest  to  see  how  some  of  those  would 
rank  in  competition  with  some  of  the  recent 
English  creations.  The  feature  of  the  show  was 
without  doubt  a  magnificent  exhibit  from  Mr.  L. 
Buckland  of  Camperdown,  Victoria,  prominent 
among  which  were  White  Queen,  Homespun, 
King  Alfred,  Olympia,  Sunflower.  Sirius,  Con- 
stellation, Argent,  Gold  Eye,  Gold  Chalice, 
Gloria  Mundi,  Dante,  Chaucer,  &c. ,  besides  a 
number  of  exquisite  seedlings.  To  this  exhibitor 
were  awarded  the  championships  for  single 
blooms  (Magni)  Olympia,  (Medio)  White  Queen 
and  (Parvi)  Margaret,  the  last-named  being  a 
magnificent  true  f  oeticus  of  Mr.  Buckland's  own 
raising.  This  collection  afforded  Sydney  growers 
the  opportunity  of  seeing  a  number  of  varieties 
which  have  not  hitherto  been  exhibited  here,  and 
the  excellence  of  growth  and  depth  of  colour 
made  local  e.xhibitors  inclined  to  feel  a  little 
envious  of  the  advantages  possessed  by  some  of 
their  brethren  of  the  Southern  State  in  their  rich 
volcanic  soil  and  more  generous  rainfall. 

Oae  of  the  most  noticeable  defects  of  Sydney 
Daffodil  shows  is  the  general  absence  of  represen- 
tatives of  the  Parvi-Coronati  section,  as  naturally 
their  blooming  periods  are  too  late  under  Sydney 
climatic  conditions  for  exhibition,  and  so  far  no 
attempt  worth  mentioning  has  been  made  to 
force  the  later  varieties.  H.  Selkirk. 


NOTES   OF    THE   WEEK. 

FOKTHCOMING     EVENTS. 

*(,*  The  dates  given  below  are  those  supplied  hy  the 
respective  Secretaries. 
November  23. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers,  Vegetables  and  Fruit, 
Vincent  Square,  Westminster.  Lecture  at  3  p  m. , 
by  Mr.  J.  A.  Alexander,  on  "Spices." 


Exhibition  of  Colonial  fruits 

ana  vegetables.— Her  Royal  Highness  the 
Princess  Louise,  Duchess  of  Argyll,  has  graciously 
consented  to  open  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  exhibition  of  Colonial-grown  fruits  and 
vegetables  at  12.30  p.m.  on  December  1  at  their 
great  hall  in  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 
Her  Royal  Highness  will  be  aooomnanied  by  His 
Grace  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  K.T.,  G.C.M.G., 
G.  C.V.  (1.  A  splendid  exhibition  is  being 
arranged,  and  the  various  Colonies  are  endeavour- 
ing to  be  represented  according  to  their  respec- 
tive climatic  abilities  at  this  time  of  year.  Free 
cinematograph  displays  at  frequent  intervals 
will  be  given,  with  lectures  ;  and  on  December  1, 
at  3  p.  m. ,  Mr.  Robert  Newstead,  A.  L.  S. ,  F.  E.  S. , 
of  the  Liverpool  School  of  Tropical  Medicine,  will 
deliver  a  lecture  on  the  West  Indian  insect 
pests.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  there  will  be  a 
large  attendance  of    exhibitors.       The    society 


makes  no  profit  whatever  on  these  Colonial  exhi- 
bitions, but  rather  the  contrary. 

A  national   exhibition  of  veg^e- 

tables  next  year.— Many  of  our  readers 
will  learn  with  pleasure  that  the  committee  of 
the  National  Vegetable  Society  has  definitely 
decided  to  hold  a  great  exhibition  of  vesetables 
in  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  Hall  at 
Westminster  on  September  28,  1910.  His  Grace 
the  Duke  of  Portland,  president  of  the  society,  has 
intimated  his  desire  to  offer  a  president's  prize  of 
ten  guineas  as  a  first  prize  for  twelve  dishes  of 
vegetables  showing  the  highest  excellence  in  culti- 
vation. Several  leading  seedsmen  have  offered 
valuable  prizes,  and  the  committee  wish  that  other 
firms  who  desire  to  do  likewise  will  communicate 
with  the  secretary  as  early  as  possible,  as  the 
compilation  of  the  schedule  will  soon  have  to  be 
undertaken.  In  addition  to  the  prizes  mentioned 
above,  the  society  will  arrange  classes  and  offer 
valuable  prizes,  so  that  the  show  promises  to  be 
an  exceedingly  good  one,  in  spite  of  some  trivial 
opposition  from  one  or  two  sources.  A  good 
number  of  new  members  were  enrolled  at  the  last 
committee  meeting,  but  more  are  wanted.  Trials  of 
spring  Cabbages  and  Onions  are  being  made  by  the 
society  in  three  different  districts,  and  the  results 
of  these  will,  in  due  course,  be  sent  to  members, 
who  will  also  have  the  privilege  of  exhibiting  at 
the  forthcoming  show.  We  know  that  a  vast 
number  of  our  readers  take  a  great  interest  in 
the  culture  of  vegetables  and  also  in  the 
advancement  of  their  wider  consumption,  and 
we  appeal  to  all  suuh  to  strengthen  the  hands  of 
the  committee  in  their  praiseworthy  efforts  by 
joining  the  society.  The  annual  subscription  is 
only  .53.  The  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  E.  G.  Quick, 
Kelmscott,  Harrow  View,  Wealdstone,  Harrow, 
or  the  hon.  treasurer.  Mr.  G.  Wythes,  V.M.H., 
Hopefield  House,  Wiudmill  Road,  Brentford, 
will  be  pleased  to  furnish  lull  particulars  to  any- 
one who  cares  to  write  for  them. 

Intepestingr  show  at  Romfopd.— 

The  Romford  and  District  Chrysanthemum 
Society  held  its  annual  exhibition  of  flowers, 
fruits  and  vegetables  in  the  Corn  Exchange  on 
the  11th  inst.,  when  a  good  display  was  made  by 
gardeners  and  amateurs.  Mr.  G.  Hobday,  the 
well-known  amateur,  was  first  in  a  number  of 
classes,  notably  those  for  Grapes,  collection  of 
nine  kinds  of  vegetables,  a  group  of  Chrysanthe- 
mum plants  and  for  nine  Onions.  Mr.  J.  H. 
Sellers  was  first  for  six  Leeks  and  second  for  a 
collection  of  vegetables.  Mr.  J.  Cox,  gardener 
to  Mrs.  Mcintosh,  Havering  Park,  was  first  in 
the  open  classes  for  white  and  black  Grapes,  his 
bunches  being  well  fiaished.  The  same  exhibitor 
was  first  for  a  collection  of  nine  kinds  of  vegetables 
in  the  open  section.  Mr.  F.  Bradley  of  Brent- 
wood was  the  principal  winner  with  large  Chry- 
santhemum blooms.  Mr.  W.  H.  Young,  Mercury 
Gardens,  Romford,  staged  an  interesting  group 
of  Chrysanthemums,  Palms,  Veronicas,  Ferns 
and  Orchids,  this  being  not  for  competition  and 
adding  much  beauty  to  the  show. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible    for  the   opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents. ) 

Rehmannia  angrulata.— This  requires 

a  hot,  dry  situation.  Of  a  row  planted  at  the 
foot  of  a  south  wall  nearly  all  survived  last  winter 
(the  most  severe  during  the  ten  years  I  have  been 
in  Kent,  with  a  minimum  of  18\°  of  frost),  have 
flowered  all  the  summer  and  aie  still  in  bloom 
(flowers  enclosed). — A.  0.  W.,  Clcombe,  Kent. 

The  proposed  vegretable  exhibi- 
tions.— With  reference  to  the  complaint  of  "A 
L'jver  of  Good  Vegetables  "  as  to  the  action  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  proposing  to 
hold  a  vegetable  exhibition  next  autumn — as  it 
were  in  antagonism  with  that  proposed  to  be 
held  by  the  National  Vegetable  Society — I  have 
been  in  correspondence  with  the  Rev.  W.  Wilks, 


November  20,  1909.] 


THE     GAKDEN. 


563 


the  secretary  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
on  the  matter,  and  have  his  assurance  that  no 
idea  of  antagonism  whatever  has  actuated  the 
council,  inasmuch  as  it  was  resolved  some  time 
since  to  concentrate  the  classes  for  vegetables, 
now  distributed  over  the  whole  year  at  the 
ordinary  meetings,  into  one  show  in  October  next. 
Naturally,  the  now  avowed  intention  of  the 
council  has  caused  much  heart-burning,  and  it  is 
unfortunate  such  intention  was  not  made  public 
at  the  time  the  National  Vegetable  Society  was 
established.  However,  the  latter  society's  show 
will  be  held  at  the  end  of  September,  and  with  a 
great  effort  might  be  made  a  truly  national 
one.— Alex.  Dean. 


AMATEUR  GARDENING  FOR 
PROFIT. 

THE  leading  article  in  The  Garden  for 
November  6  is  so  timely  and  to  the 
point  that  it  is  much  to  be  hoped  it 
may    give    pause  to  some  who    are 
thinking  of    making    gardening    for 
profit  their  business  in  life.     Those 
to  whom    the    warning    is    most    needful    are, 
perhaps,   to  be    found  in  that    large    class    of 
educated  people  of  both  sexes — ^but  especially 
women  —  who    have    a    small 
capital    at    disposal,    but    not 
enough   to   exempt   them    from 
making    some     effort    towards 
earning  their  own  living.      To 
such  the  freedom  and  indepen-  / 

denee  of  an  outdoor  life,  with       -  ^ 
gardening  for  its  object,  appears       ^ 
peculiarly  alluring ;  and  it  is  not  ~' 

surprising,  in  view  of  the  opti-  ! 

mistic    and    misleading     state-  U 

ments    often    put   forward  by  ^' 

irresponsible  folk  in  print  and 
speech,   that  sanguine  souls  at 
a  loss  to  know  what  to  do  for  the  best  should 
be  tempted  to  embark  on  a  perilous  voyage. 

One  such  statement  lies  before  me  at  the 
present  moment  in  a  review  of  a  practical  book 
lately  published  on  French  gardening,  which  the 
reviewer  brings  to  a  conclusion  thus :  "  The 
gross  returns  of  one  acre  under  this  system  reach 
as  much  as  £500  and  £700  per  annum,  and  there 
seems  no  reason  why,  with  similar  industry  and 
science,  equally  good  results  should  not  be 
achieved  elsewhere  in  England."  To  a  reader 
with  practical  experience,  such  a  sentence  would 
convey  no  more  than  it  is  worth.  On  the  other 
hand,  those  words  might  be  enough  in  themselves 
to  bring  the  enthusiasm  of  some  artless  possessor 
of  a  few  hundred  pounds  to  balancing  point,  and 
to  turn  the  scale  in  favour  of  ill-considered  out- 
lay— while,  quite  possibly,  no  suspicion  of  the 
difference  between  gross  returns  and  nett  might 
arise  to  overshadow  the  brightness  of  the  out- 
look. 

The  truth  is  that — setting  aside  such  common- 
place difficulties  as  training  and  experience,  over- 
competition  and  over-production,  and  available 
or,  say,  rather,  unavailable  markets — a  very 
unusual  combination  of  personal  qualities  is  in- 
separable from  success  in  this  particular  calling. 
The  gardener  for  profit  must  possess  a  quick 
brain  of  more  than  average  power,  indomitable 
courage  and  perseverance,  and  a  fine  physique 
capable  of  enduring  every  alternation  of  heat 
and  cold,  wet  weather  and  drought,  with  their 
inevitable  strain  upon  even  a  strong  constitution. 
To  a  natural  aptitude  for  the  work  must  be 
added  sufficient  capital — which  ought  to  be 
larger  than  is  often  supposed — to  carry  him  (or 
her)  through  the  tedious  waiting  years  before 
profit  can  become  fact.  One  case  only  occurs  to 
me  out  of  many  of  what  may  be  called  amateur 
gardening  for  profit,  in  which  real  success  has 
rewarded  patience  and  skill  and  outlay.  It  is 
that  of  a  woman  who  combines  in  herself  to  a 
rare  degree  all  the  qualifications  given  above. 
This  lady,  besides  having  done  well  in  her  own 


business  career,  has  had  the  satisfaction  of  giving 
employment  to  a  considerable  number  of  work- 
men, skilled  and  unskilled,  than  which,  in  these 
days,  no  truer  service  can  be  offered  by  any  of 
us  for  the  welfare  of  the  State. 

Eive-and-twenty  years  or  so  ago  many  causes 
combined  to  tempt  persons  of  culture  and  energy, 
but  of  limited  means,  to  embark  on  the  smooth 
and  peaceful-looking  sea  named  Horticulture  on 
the  Chart  of  Labour,  trusting  to  find  a  safe  haven 
in  one  or  other  of  its  many  ports.  Their  cargoes 
seemed  to  promise  a  rich  return,  and  hearts  beat 
high  with  hope  as  favouring  breezes  filled  the 
sails  and  wafted  many  a  laden  bark  across  the 
quiet  waves.  But  tranquil  waters,  alas !  are  too 
often  treacherous,  and,  by  and  by,  many  more 
frail  vessels  launched  out  on  that  unstable  sea 
heedless  of  threatening  clouds  and  angry  wisps 
of  driving  foam  betokening  tempest,  and  when 


gardening  for  profit ;  but  for  some  reason  or  other 
— is  it  on  account  of  the  new  system  of  French 
intensive  gardening?  —  there  has  been  a  recru- 
descence of  late  of  the  desire  for  outdoor  life  and 
for  the  growing  of  paying  crops,  and  it  is  sadden- 
ing to  those  who  have  had  experience  to  see  the 
unwary  running  into  the  old  mistake.  Hence 
the  risks  attending  any  venture  of  the  kind  can- 
not be  too  openly  discussed  by  those  who  know 
and  can  testify  that  Horticulture  means  no 
easy  sail  over  calm  seas  to  the  Port  of  Good 
Fortune.  K.  L.  I). 


the  Malmaisons 
should  be  done 


A  NEW  ORCHID  :   THE   WESTONEIBT   VARIETY   Or 
L.aUO-CATTLBTA   PIZABBO.     (Much  reduced.) 

at  length  it  burst  upon  them,  few  were  able  to 
ride  upon  the  storm,  and  foundered  with  all 
hands  before  ever  they  sighted  land. 

In  plain  words,  at  that  period  Horticulture 
was  in  the  ascendant.  Cut  flowers  were  not  yet 
manufactured  by  the  hundred  dozen  bunches, 
but  the  new  supply  was  creating  a  new  demand. 
Prices  were  decidedly  remunerative,  and  a  great 
future  seemed  to  open  before  the  cultivator. 
Then  came,  to  name  only  one  set-back,  over- 
production, which  soon  wrought  a  change,  and 
prices  fell  quickly  enough  to  starvation  point. 
For  a  time  not  so  much  was  heard  of  amateur 


THE     G  R  EEN  HOUSE. 

CULTIVATION    OF    MALMAISON 
CARNATIONS. 

[7?t  Beply  to  "Mrs.  M."'\ 

ALMAISON  CARNATIONS  differ 
considerably  in  their  cultural 
requirements  from  the  Tree  or 
Perpetual-flowering  kinds.  These 
last  are  readily  increased  by  cut- 
tings ;  but  for  the  propagation  of 
layering  is  necessary.  This 
as  soon  as  the  plants  go  out 
of  flower.  They  must  be  layered 
in  frames  so  that  the  lights  can 
be  put  on  in  the  event  of  heavy 
rains,  which  would  soon  cause  a 
good  deal  of  damage.  The 
frame  must  have  a  sufficient 
depth  of  good  sandy  soil  placed 
therein,  into  which  the  old  Car- 
nations can  be  planted.  Then 
layer  the  best  shoots  therein, 
keeping  them  securely  in  posi- 
tion by  means  of  pegs.  Of  course, 
each  layer  must  be  tongued. 
The  lights  must  then  be  put  oc, 
and  raised  at  the  back  in  order 
to  allow  for  a  supply  of  air.  It 
will  be  necessary  to  shade  the 
lights  from  bright  sunshine  till 
the  layers  are  rooted.  In  about 
a  month  to  six  weeks  the  layers 
will  be  sufficiently  rooted  for 
potting.  For  this  purpose  pots 
i  inches  in  diameter  should  be 
chosen,  and  a  compost  made  up 
of  two  parts  good  loam  to  one 
part  leaf-mould,  and  sufficient 
coarse  sand  to  keep  the  soil 
open.  Place  the  plants  in  a 
cold  frame,  and  shade  for  a  few  days  from 
bright  sun  till  the  plants  have  recovered  from 
the  check  of  removal.  Some  prefer  to  put 
them  all  in  their  flowering  pots,  6  inches  in 
diameter,  before  winter,  while  other  cultivators 
pot  only  the  strongest,  leaving  the  others  in 
small  pots  till  the  new  year.  In  any  case  they 
need  to  be  wintered  in  a  light,  airy  structure, 
and  take  great  care  that  they  are  not  over- 
watered  at  any  time.  They  must  be  vaporised 
freely,  as  green  fly  is  very  destructive  if  it  once 
gets  a  hold  on  them.  For  potting  into  the  flower- 
ing pots  the  soil  may  be  rougher  than  that  for 
the  small  plants,  and  a  rather  larger  proportion 
of  loam  will  be  helpful. 


LtELIO  -  CATTLEYA    PIZAKKO 

WESTONBIKT    VAEIETY. 

This  beautiful  Orchid  created  quite  a  sensation 

when  shown  before  the  Orchid  committee  of  the 

Royal     Horticultural     Society    by    Lieutenant- 

'  Colonel  Holford,    CLE.,   C.V.O.,  Westonbirt, 

:  Tetbury,    Gloucester,    in    February  last.     The 

colouring  is  particularly   bright  and    good,  the 

sepals  and  petals  being  bright  rosy  mauve.     The 

large  labellum  is  very  heavily  fringed,  the  throat 

being  deep  rich  yellow,  suffused  with  carmine, 

in  colour,  a  broad  margin  of  rosy  mauve  giving 

an  added  beauty  to  this  segment  of  the  flower. 


564 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  20,  1909. 


THE    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


THE  WINTEK  CAULIFLOWEK  AND 
BROCCOLI  SUPPLY. 

FEW  vegetables  are  more  appreciated 
from  December  to  May  than  £;ood, 
compact  white  heads  of  either  Broccoli 
or  Cauliflower,  and  I  include  both,  as 
they  are  so  closely  allied  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  divide  them.  Of  late  years  our 
winter  supply  has  been  largely  augmented  by  the 
introduction  of  some  excellent  winter  types, 
not  large  but  excellent  for  the  work  ;  but, 
even  with  the  most  approved  varieties  and 
methods  of  culture,  owing  to  our  climate  we  are 
at  times  unable  to  maintain  a  winter  supply,  and 
to  do  so  one  has  to  resort  to  various  means,  both 
as  regards  cropping  and  storing  or  shelter  of  the 
crop  afterwards,  and  as  at  this  season  more 
depends  upon  the  protection  or  storing,  I  will 
briefly  note  its  importance. 

Few  winter  Broccolis  have  proved  more  valuable 
to  the  private  grower  who  requires  as  long  a  winter 
supply  as  possible  than  Veitch's  Self  Protecting 
Autumn.  This  is  far  more  valuable  at  the  season 
named  than  the  large  Autumn  Giant  Cauliflower, 
and  there  are  also  other  very  fine  winter  Broccolis, 
viz.,  Sutton's  Michaelmas  White,  a  plant  with 
dwarf  habit  and  well  protected  by  the  foliage, 
having  beautifully  compact  white  heads,  and 
which  invariably  turn  in  during  the  early  autumn. 
As  a  winter  Broccoli,  the  old  Granger  Autumn 
White,  often  called  the  Cape  Broccoli,  were  most 
valuable  for  an  early  autumn  supply  direct  from 
the  plants,  but  they  did  not  winter  as  well  when 
lifted  and  stored.  Another  excellent  winter 
Broccoli,  and  one  often  overlooked,  is  the  old  but 
good  Walcheren.  This  sown  in  May  will  give  a 
good  autumn  supply,  for  some  years  before  the 
advent  of  the  excellent  Self  Protecting  Autumn 
and  Michaelmas  White,  I  had,  or  was  supposed, 
to  produce  Cauliflowers  or  Broccoli  every  day 
from  Michaelmas  to  June — a  most  difficult 
period — and  I  found  the  Walcheren  most 
valuable.  This  sown  in  batches  from  April  to 
June  was  of  great  value,  as  the  winter  plants 
were  lifted  into  frames  and  wintered  well,  and 
for  the  early  spring  crop  I  relied  upon  the 
small  Snowball  Cauliflower,  grown  in  pots  or 
frames,  the  seeds  being  sown  in  January  in  boxes 
and  grown  under  glass  for  some  time  afterwards. 
My  note  more  concerns  the  plants  now  in  the 
soil  and  the  value  of  protection.  Where  there 
are  goodly  breadths  of  the  early  autumn  Broccoli, 
much  may  be  done  to  eke  out  the  winter  supply, 
and  the  work  is  well  worth  the  trouble  entailed, 
as  when  choice  vegetables  can  be  sent  to  table 
from  December  they  are  much  appreciated.  I 
found  it  advisable  to  go  over  the  plants  at  least 
twice  a  week,  lift  with  roots  intact  any  plants 
that  bad  heads,  even  when  small,  and  place  in 
frames  or  give  other  protection  that  might  be  at 
hand  during  the  early  winter  months.  So  much 
depends  upon  the  weather.  With  an  open 
autumn  it  is  well  to  leave  the  plants  as  long  as 
possible  in  their  growing  quarters  ;  but  it  often 
happens  that,  owing  to  the  earliest  lot  of  plants 
growing  somewhat  freely,  the  heads  are  large  and 
less  useful.  This  can  readily  be  avoided  by 
simply  lifting  or  heeling  over  to  the  north  ;  this 
arrests  growth  and  does  not  deteriorate  the  head 
or  flower. 

All  growers  may  not  have  frames  at  command 
for  the  winter  protection,  but  I  have  often  placed 
the  foremost,  or  earliest  supply,  in  sheds  or 
cellars,  where  they  will  remain  sound  a  long 
time  if  the  place  is  not  too  damp  ;  of  course, 
several  degrees  of  frost  can  be  warded  o£f  by 
merely  going  over  the  plants  and  tying  the 
outside  leaves  over  the  head  or  flower,  but  with 
severe  frost  this  does  not  suffice.  It  is  surprising 
what  a  long  time  lifted  plants  remain  good.  I 
have  kept  them  three  months  in  perfect  health, 
providing  the  heads  were  not  damaged  or  too 
large  at  the  time  of  lifting.  G.   Wythes. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

THE    TAMARISKS    FOR    INLAND 
PLANTING. 

SO  conservative  are  we  in  our  customs, 
and  so  tenacious  are  we  of  an  idea  after 
once  it  has  taken  root,  that  even  if  totally 
erroneous  it  becomes  a  fixture.  The 
popular  notion  that  the  beautiful  and 
absolutely  distinct  shrub  Tamarisk  can 
only  be  grown  within  touch  of  the  sea-breath 
is  so  widespread  that  it  has  banished  this  lovely 
thing  to  the  narrow  limits  of  our  island  shores, 
and  it  is  only  on  the  rarest  occasion  that  anyone 
is  found  sufficiently  daring  and  original  to  attempt 
to  grow  the  plant  away  from  the  sea  border. 

There  are  no  grounds  for  this  assumption  and 
it  is  difficult  to  see  how  it  arose,  for  even  as  long 
ago  as  ir)97  old  (ierarde,  the  London  gardener, 
writing  of  the  two  species  known  to  him,  French 
(narbonensis)  and  German  (germanica),  says  that 
"  both  these  grow  and  prosper  well  in  gardens 
with  us  heere  in  England,"  mentioning  them  as 
"  thriving  by  running  streams  and  rivers,  in 
fenny  ground  and  gravelly  soils,  in  moist  and  stony 
places,"  showing  how  alive  he  was  to  the  fact 
that  their  use  is  not  restricted.  At  that  time 
the  shrub  was  used  medicinally  in  various  ways, 
among  which  may  be  quoted  the  cure  for  tooth- 
ache and  for  the  bite  of  the  poison  spider, 
Phalanquin.  At  that  time  May  and  August 
seem  to  have  been  the  flowering  months,  and 
later  on  Miller  (Philip)  gives  it  as  flowering  in 
the  months  from  June  to  October  inclusive.  He 
recommends  the  transplanting  of  this  shrub  in 
October,  as  it  then  has  less  danger  of  suffering  from 
drought,  and  thus  will  probably  flower  the 
following  summer.  The  advice  is  still  the  best 
that  can  be  given.  Loudon,  again,  quotes  T.  gal- 
lica  as  flowering  from  May  to  October  and 
T.  germanica  as  June  to  September  ;  and  I  find 
this  variation  in  time  of  flowering  is  even  now 
noticeable  in  different  parts  of  the  kingdom. 

Not  only  has  the  public  made  up  its  mind  that 
the  Tamarisk  is  useless  except  as  a  seaside  shrub, 
but  also  that  it  needs  the  salt,  the  abundant 
moisture,  the  sandy  soil  and  open  situation 
which  it  is  there  enabled  to  enjoy.  One  has 
only  to  go  to  such  unlikely  spots  as  Kew  in  the 
Thames  Valley,  with  its  warm  and  sheltering 
climate,  to  find  a  beautiful  object-lesson  in  the 
great  possibilities  of  growing  this  delightful 
shrub  away  from  sea  influence.  The  thriving 
specimens  growing  there  give  their  own  denial 
to  the  passively  accepted  charge  levelled  against 
them.  And  neither  here  nor  at  Wisley  is  any 
salt  given  them  or  any  special  soil. 

The  character  of  the  plant  is  so  ornamental 
and  so  distinct  from  that  of  any  other  that  the 
foliage  alone,  with  its  feathery  masses,  would  be 
sufficient  to  make  us  wish  to  grow  it  ;  but, 
added  to  this,  the  delioate  apricot  pink  inflores- 
cence is  lovely,  plentiful  and  unique. 

Trained  in  the  way  the  tree  is  sometimes 
treated  on  our  shores  as  a  wind  screen,  with  gnarled 
old  trunk,  and  branches  turned  from  their 
upward  path  by  tying  horizontally,  they  form  a 
feathery  but  efficient  rampart  against  the  stormy 
sea  winds.  Naturally,  this  artificial  shaping 
somewhat  detracts  from  the  beauty  and  grace  of 
the  shrub,  which  is  seen  at  its  best  when  allowed 
a  certain  latitude  of  growth  to  rise  its  10  feet. 

In  the  extreme  South- West,  where  stone  walls 
take  the  place  of  our  Eastern  hedges  and  where 
wall  gardening  is  a  special  feature  of  every  lane, 
it  is  common  to  see  the  Tamarisk  mounted  above 
the  stone  pile,  rooted  there  firmly  and  thriving 
in  what  would  seem  to  be  most  inadequate  con- 
ditions. The  effect  of  the  impenetrable  wall 
base  and  thick  shrubby  top  is  to  produce  an  ideal 
shelter  in  that  exposed  part  of  our  country.  Of 
course,  the  process  is  a  slow  one,  and  the  hedge 
when  started  must  be  planted  in  new  earth,  and  not 
be  expected  to  thrive  on  an  old,  muoh-used  wall. 

The  distance  apart  for  planting  a  good  hedge 
is  about  B  inches  or  8  inches,  and  for  several 


years  they  will  need  close  attention  until  fully 
established,  when  they  will  give  no  trouble 
whatever.  October  to  December  is  the  best  time 
for  this  operation.  They  prefer  a  good  deal  of 
moisture,  but  it  is  not  essential  for  them  ;  like- 
wise they  do  not  object  to  salt  either  in  soil  or 
spray,  but  do  not  exact  it ;  and  although  they 
do  well  with  the  very  least  of  pruning,  yet  will 
stand  a  sharp  annual  cutting  back. 

"Manna  Plant"  is  a  name  it  is  known  by, 
and  although  we  call  it  Tamarisk,  "  Tamarix  "  is 
the  correct  botanical  term.  This  must  not  be 
confounded  with  the  word  Tamarack,  which  is 
the  name  given  to  one  of  the  Larches,  Larix 
americana.  There  are  not  many  varieties  known 
as  yet,  and  those  there  are  have  many  confusing 
synonyms. 

The  wild  and  common  Tamarisk  is  T.  gallica, 
known  to  us  all.  Another  very  similar  to  it,  but 
better  and  finer,  is  T.  tetrandra,  generally  made 
synonymous  with  T.  parviflora.  Some  say  their 
plants  flower  earlier,  some  say  later  than  the 
gallica,  but  all  agree  that  it  is  a  fine  thing.  The 
most  beautiful  of  all,  however,  though  unfortu- 
nately it  is  not  quite  so  hardy  as  the  rest,  is  T. 
japoniea,  syn.  T.  chinensis  (the  word  plumosus  is 
sometimes  added),  which  is  a  revelation  as  to  the 
possible  beauty  of  a  Tamarisk.  T.  hispida 
.fstivalis,  syn.  T.  Pallassi,  is  a  fine  late-flowering 
species,  and  in  T.  hispida  kashgarioa  or  T.  kash- 
garica  the  flower  is  of  a  more  pronounced  and 
deeper  red  than  the  others  and  is  altogether 
rather  distinct,  and  flowers  in  the  autumn  till 
about  October. 

Besides  these  there  are  several  greenhouse 
species  with  which  we  are  not  concerned.  There 
is  a  plant  called  Myrioaria  germanica,  which  is  a 
very  near  ally  to  the  Tamarisks,  sometimes 
spoken  of  as  the  German  Tamarisk,  and  is  very 
similar  to  them,  but  is  more  erect,  shorter  and 
less  graceful,  with  leaves  more  glaucous  and  the 
whole  habit  somewhat  different  from  them  all. 
Mention  is  occasionally  made  of  another  species, 
Myrioaria  davurica,  but  I  am  unable  to  learn 
anything  definite  concerning  it.      E.  Curgwen. 


THE    FRU[T_  GARDEN. 

A    GOOD    EARLY    PEAR-DR.  JULES 
GUYOT. 

OF  Continental-raised  varieties  among 
^  Pears  I  place  Dr.  Jules  Guyot  in 
I  the  front  rank,  and  it  has  now 
m  been  grown  sufficiently  long  to 
enable  one  to  note  its  value.  Last 
season  it  was  very  fine  ;  few  fruits 
when  ripe  are  more  handsome.  It  is  larger  than 
the  well-known  Williams'  Bon  Chretien  and  the 
illustration  gives  a  good  idea  of  its  shape.  The 
skin  is  a  pale  yellow  colour,  with  minute  dots  or 
spots,  and  there  is  rich  crimson  on  the  sunny  side. 
Early  fruits  ought  to  be  shapely  and  have  a  good 
colour,  as  all  fruits  that  do  not  keep  find  a  much 
better  sale  if  they  are  handsome.  Dr.  Jules 
Guyot  in  this  respect  is  all  that  can  be  desired. 
As  a  cordon  or  bush  it  is  excellent.  This  variety 
is  most  valuable  to  those  who  require  fine  fruit 
early  in  September. 

The  fruits  remain  in  season  for  a  month.  From 
a  wall  or  cordon  we  get  fruits  in  August,  early 
in  September  from  trained  trees,  and  from  bush 
or  standard  trees  late  in  the  month.  It  has  the 
good  quality  of  Williams'  Bon  Chretien,  is  larger 
and  better  coloured,  and  is  devoid  of  the  musky 
flavour  of  Williams'  to  which  many  object.  As 
this  variety  fruits  so  well  in  a  small  state,  it  should 
become  a  favourite  for  small  gardens.  Grown  on 
the  Quince  stock,  the  tree  is  remarkably  dwarf 
and  prolific,  and  being  a  late  bloomer  it  with- 
stands spring  frosts  better  than  some  early  kinds. 
In  adverse  seasons  I  have  had  fruits  of  Dr. 
Jules  Guyot  when  others  failed.  It  well  repays 
liberal  treatment  when  grown  as  a  bush  or 
pyramid,  for  a  mass  of  fruiting  wood  is  usually 
made,  and  there  are  few  strong  growths.    A.  W. 


November  20,- 1909.]; 


THE    GARDEN. 


565 


THE   FLOWER  GARDEN. 


MAY-FLOWERING  OR  COTTAGE 

TULIPS. 
A    S   the  one  common  factor  of  the  Tulips 
/\  which  are  usually  associated  together 

/  \         in  this  group  is,  as  one  of  its  titles 

/  ^  suggests,  their  time  of  flowering,  it 
y  \^  will  create  no  great  surprise  to  know 
that  there  is  to  be  found  among  them 
great  diversity  of  colour,  form  and  size.  It  is 
this  that  makes  them  so  useful  in  our  gardens. 
If  we  want  something  to  fill  small  beds  or  for 
the  front  herbaceous  borders,  we  have  dwarf 
varieties  eminently  suited  for  such  purposes  ;  if 
we  want  something  for  larger  masses  of  colour 
or  for  the  back  rows,  we  have  taller  and  larger 
sorts ;  and,  lastly,  if  we  want  cut  flowers,  we  can 
have  nothing  more  beautiful  or  effective  to 
decorate  our  tables  and  our  rooms. 

Some  of  my  friends  to  whom  I  have  given 
bunches  of  these  Tulips  have  expressed  the 
greatest  surprise  at  their  lasting  powers  in  water. 
I  suppose  they  associate  all  cut  Tulips  with  the 
early  flowering  varieties,  which  one  must  frankly 
confess  are  not  a  very  great  success  in  vases.  It 
is  altogether  different  with  regard  to  the  May- 
flowering  varieties  which  have  been  grown 
naturally  out  of  doors,  and  which  have  not  to 
face  the  hot  fires  and  illuminants  that  are  neces- 
sary in  the  earlier  weeks  of  the  year. 

With  regard  to  gathering  them,  one  or  two 
hints  maybe  of  service.  (1)  Tulips  should  always 
be  cut  when  the  flowers  are  in  a  young  state, 
and  before  they  have  been  very  widely  opened 
by  the  sun  ;  if  possible,  in  the  early  morning. 
(2)  Never  cut  off  more  than  one  green  leaf.  The 
greatest  length  that  one  can  safely  allow  for  the 
flower-stalk  is  to  cut  it  off  about  an  inch  above 
the  second  leaf  from  the  top.  If  this  simple  rule 
is  strictly  observed,  the  bulbs  will  be  able  to 
accumulate  the  nourishment  necessary  for 
another  year's  growth  and  be  none  the  worse  for 
the  operation.  (3)  Never  allow  the  stalks  to  get 
limp  before  they  are  put  into  water.  If  any  varie- 
ties are  found  to  flag,  a  cross  slit  about  an  inch 
deep  at  the  end  of  the  stem  will  work  wonders. 

Dwarf  Varieties. 

One  of  the  best  known  is  Isabella.  In  its  young 
state  it  has  a  cream  flower,  which  is  heavily 
margined  with  pale  rosy  red.  This  gradually 
extends  over  the  whole  of  the  petals  and  becomes 
more  intense  in  colour.  Silver  Queen  should  also 
be  mentioned ;  it  is  the  rectified  form  of  Isabella, 
and  has  a  whiter  and  more  delicate  appearance. 
Macrospeila  is  a  very  reliable  flower  ;  it  is  a  sort 
of  smaller  and  later  edition  of  the  magnificent 
crimson-scarlet  gesneriana  spathulata,  but  with  a 
different  coloured  base ;  it  lasts  a  long  time  in 
flower  and  is  sweet-scented.  Then  we  have  two 
exceedingly  handsome  dark  crimsons  in  Pompa- 
dour and  Glare  of  the  Garden.  They  are  a  good 
deal  alike,  but  Pompadour  is  decidedly  the  darker 
one.  In  contrast  to  these  crimsons  there  is  the 
little-known  Scarlet  Mammoth,  which  is  an 
immense  flower  of  glowing  scarlet.  Despite  its 
size  it  stands  bad  weather  well.  It  flowers  at 
the  same  time  as  White  Swan.  Caledonia  is 
another  very  bright  variety ;  it  has  a  smallish 
flower  and  is  one  of  the  latest  to  bloom.  In 
yellows  we  have  Primrose  Beauty,  a  long,  vase- 
shaped  flower  of  a  delicate  primrose  shade,  and 
strangulata  primulina,  with  a  rather  larger  bloom 
and  a  deeper  shade  of  primrose  yellow.  These  are 
both  particularly  beautiful  and  refined  flowers. 

A  very  taking  little  Tulip,  and  one  that  is  very 
distinct  from  any  other,  is  the  red  and  yellow 
striped  Buenaventura,  which  is  identical  with 
one  I  have  had  for  a  long  time  under  the  name  of 
Gloria  Mundi.  It  is  very  bright  in  a  mass,  but 
must  be  well  grown.  A  variety  that  always  looks 
well  is  Sunset ;  it  is  one  of  the  billietiana  type, 
and  is  distinguished  by  its  vivid  colourings  of 
red  and  yellow.  It  is  a  refined-looking  Golden 
Crown,  which,  although  a  taller  grower  and  a 


larger  flower,  is  also  a  good  and  reliable  bedder. 
For  an  isolated  position,  where  flowers  are  wanted 
in  late  March  or  early  April,  the  Water  Lily 
Tulip  (T.  kaufmanniana)  is  one  that  I  can  highly 
recommend.  To  see  its  lovely,  pale  yellow  bloom 
wide  open  on  a  sunny  day  in  early  spring  is  a 
very  pleasing  sight.  In  Royal  White  we  have  a 
late  and  dwarf  flower  of  pure  white  which  is  in- 
valuable for  bedding.  This  must  close  my  rather 
long  list  of  this  type.  As  there  are  not  nearly 
so  many  of  these  dwarfer  varieties  as  of  the 
taller  sorts,  I  have  been  led  to  describe  what 
there  are  more  fully  than  I  otherwise  would  have 
done. 

Taller  Varieties. 
Here  we  have  a  large  choice,  and  I  am  at  a  loss 
upon  what  principle  to  make  a  selection. 
Possibly  the  best  will  be  to  give  the  names  of  two 
or  three  of  the  finest  and  most  distinct  of  each 
colour  with  just  a  word  to  indicate  their  indi- 
viduality. In  scarlets  we  have  Scarlet  Emperor, 
very  large,  tall  and  early  ;  Flame,  not  quite  so 
large,  but  a  brighter  red  ;  and  mauriana,  a  very 
lasting    flower.       In    crimson  -  reds    gesneriana 


have.  Innocence  (pure  white)  is  practically 
the  only  real  late  white.  I  never  had  it  so 
good  until  this  year,  although  I  have  had  it 
for  a  considerable  time.  I  hope  it  is  really  im- 
proving with  age,  for  good  late  whites  are  wanted. 
Of  edged  Tulips,  Piootee,  white,  rose  edge  ; 
Fairy  Queen,  rosy  heliotrope,  with  yellow 
margin ;  and  alba  elegans,  pure  white,  with  a 
thread  edge  of  rose,  are  all  delightful  in  their 
way.  My  list  is  already  very  long,  and  there 
are  many  more  I  would  like  to  mention.  There 
are,  for  example,  all  the  beautiful  striped 
varieties,  such  as  Admiral  Kingsbergen,  Zomer- 
schoon  and  Chameleon ;  the  art  shaded  ones, 
such  as  John  Buskin  and  Beauty  of  Bath  ;  the 
grand  ones  like  Louis  XIV.  and  Turenue,  and  so 
on.  Every  reader  should  buy  a  collection  at 
once  ;  there  is  still  time  ;  the  old  Tulip  planting 
day  was  November  9.  Any  time  soon  after  that 
will  do  very  well.  Joseph  Jacob. 

SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 
AuTDiw  Soil  Preparation. — Notwithstanding 
the  popularity  to  which  autumn  sowing,  either 


PEAR  DR.   JULES  GUYOT.     (See  page  sett.) 


spathulata  is  still  without  a  rival.  Othello,  deep 
blood  red,  and  Feu  Ardent,  a  beautifully  shaped 
flower,  are  both  good.  We  have  some  tine 
yellows.  Mrs.  Moon,  very  tall  and  graceful ; 
gesneriana  lutea,  a  shorter  variety  with  very 
large  flowers ;  and  the  paler  Darwin-shaped 
Inglescombe  Yellow  are  three  good  deeper- 
coloured  sorts  ;  while  Miss  Willmott,  Solfaterre 
and  Leghorn  Bonnet  are  splendid  representatives 
of  the  paler  shades.  The  two  former  have  long, 
vase-shaped  blooms,  and  the  latter  has  large,  loose 
petals  of  straw  colour. 

Many  people  admire  the  curious  browny 
yellows  and  reddy  browns.  They  are  very 
distinct  and  decided  contrasts  to  all  other 
Tulips.  Quaintness,  a  new  coppery  orange  ; 
Bronze  Queen  (or  Sensation),  a  rich  bronzy 
gold  ;  and  Hammer  Hales,  one  of  the  largest  of 
all  Tulips,  are  specimens  of  this  type. 

Orange  reds  are  found  in  Orange  King  and  a 
beautiful  new  one  called  Great  Dine.  La 
Merveille,  very  graceful  and  of  a  lovely  coral  red, 
and  gesneriana  aurantiaca,  brilliant  orange  red, 
are  two  quite  cheap  sorts  which  everyone  should 


in  pots,  in  cold  frames  or  in  the  open  ground, 
has  attained  during  recent  years,  there  still 
remain  many  thousands  of  keen  and  successful 
growers  and  exhibitors  who  adhere  to  the  system 
of  spring  seeding,  and  are  always  ready  to  affirm 
that  it  is  this  method  that  brings  the  most 
gratifying  results.  Whether  this  is  actually  the 
case  or  not  it  is  not  our  place  at  present  to 
discuss,  but  to  call  attention  to  the  preparation 
of  the  land  for  spring  planting  or  sowing  with  a 
view  to  ensuring  the  finest  blooms  somewhere 
about  the  end  of  July. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  strong  land 
which  is  prepared  during  the  autumn  will  work 
far  more  easily  and  yield  much  more  generous 
returns  than  if  it  be  allowed  to  lie  solid  through 
the  winter,  and  therefore  autumn  or  early  winter 
cultivation  is  most  strongly  advocated.  As  this 
process  goes  on  we  have  to  consider  not  only 
mechanical  labour,  but  also  the  addition  of  food 
to  the  soil ;  and  to  secure  the  best  results  from 
the  latter  it  is  essential  that  the  nature  of  each 
individual  soil  shall  have  consideration,  and, 
further,  that   what  fertilising  material  is  used 


566 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  20,  1909. 


shall  be  mixed  with  the  ground  intelligently, 
since  indiscriminate  manuring  can  never  be  the 
most  profitable. 

As  far  as  the  working  is  concerned,  the  culti- 
vator has  the  choice  of  three  methods,  each 
excellent  in  its  way  and  as  far  as  it  goes.  The 
first  is  digging,  in  which  the  top  soil  is  turned 
over  to  a  depth  of  10  inches  to  12  inches  ;  the 
second  is  bastard,  false  or  mock  trenching 
(commonly,  but  none  the  less  erroneously,  called 
trenching),  in  which  the  top  soil  is  properly 
turned  as  in  ordinary  digging,  but  in  which 
there  is  the  addition  of  opening  up  the  subsoil 
to  an  equal  or  even  greater  depth  ;  and  the  third 
is  trenching,  in  which  the  positions  of  the  surface 
soil  and  subsoil  are  reversed.  Comparing  these, 
one  would  not  hesitate  to  say  that  the  last 
system  is  indisputably  the  best,  provided  that  the 
subsoil  is  perfectly  sweet ;  that  bastard  trench- 
ing is  preferable  to  ordinary  digging  ;  and  that 
no  grower  should  be  satisfied  with  the  latter 
process  except  where  his  land  is  only  1  foot  deep 
and  overlies  solid  rock.  In  this  case  it  is 
obviously  impossible  to  do  more  than  dig. 

In  all  instances  the  working  should  be  thorough 
as  far  as  the  turning  over  is  concerned,  and  the 
surface  soil  must  always  be  left  rough.  The 
object  of  this  is  to  expose  as  great  an  area  of 
soil  to  the  immediate  influence  of  the  atmosphere, 
because  we  all  know  that  the  free  admission  of 
water  and  the  swelling  out  of  the  lumps  of  mould 
by  the  force  of  the  enormously  powerful  ice  will 
enable  us  to  break  down  the  top  with  the  utmost 
ease  early  in  the  year  and  provide  us  with  an 
ideal  bed  in  which  to  place  either  plants  or  seeds. 
Added  to  this,  the  atmospheric  influence  will 
increase  the  sweetness  and  fertility  of  the  soil. 

In  regard  to  manuring,  let  it  at  once  be  said 
that  the  thorough  mixing  into  the  subsoil  or  sur- 
face soil,  the  former  for  preference,  is,  generally 
speaking,  wiser  than  placing  it  in  solid  masses  in 
trenches.  In  trenching  it  is  simple  to  mix  the 
manure  into  the  second  soil,  and  the  quantity 
may  be  generous  ;  in  bastard  trenching  it  may 
be  impossible  to  incorporate  it  with  the  second 
spit,  and  in  this  case  the  ranker  portions  should 
go  in  a  layer  between  the  two  soils  and  the 
sweeter  into  the  top  soil,  and  precisely  the  same 
system  should  be  adopted  with  the  digging.  As 
a  rule  thoroughly  rotted  farmyard  or  stable 
manure  is  the  best  stuff  to  use,  since  it  improves 
the  physical  condition  of  the  soil  at  the  same 
time  as  it  adds  to  its  fertility ;  but  in  the  possible 
event  of  no  natural  manure  being  at  command, 


reliance  may  be 
placed  upon  ooncen- 
trated  fertilisers 
with  every  prospect 
of  excellent  results, 
provided  that  the 
ground  already  con- 
tains a  sufficient 
amount  of  humus. 
Unless  the  artificials 
used  are  extremely 
slow,  such  as  basic 
slag  and  kainit,  it  is 
wiser  to  wait  until 
the  spring  before 
application,  and  the 
subject  will  be 
alluded  to  again  at 
that  season.  In  any 
case  basic  slag  at 
6oz.  and  kainit  at 
4oz.  to  the  square 
yard  can  almost 
always  be  advan- 
tageously applied. 
Spencer. 


'  If  you  care  to  make  use 


A    GARDEN 
QUICKLY  MADE. 

The  three  illustra- 
tions that  accom- 
pany this  note  show 
an  interesting  gar- 
den made  in  three  years. 

of  the  enclosed  prints  of  snap-shots  taken  by  me  in 
my  garden  this  summer  you  are  quite  welcome  to 
do  so.  They  may  be  interesting  to  some  of  your 
readers  as  showing  what  can  be  done  in  a  short 
period,  even  in  an  exposed  situation  over  800  feet 
above  sea  level.  Three  years  ago  the  site  of  the 
garden  was  a  pasture  field.  Notwithstanding 
the  unfavourable  season,  Roses  and  other  flowers 
here  have  been  remarkably  good. — J.  B.  Boycott, 
Welhy  Graft,  Chapel-en-le-Frith,  Derbyshire.'^ 


COLOURED     PLATE 

PLATE    1387. 


PBAKLAND   GARDEN  :    VIEW   ON   LAWN   LOOKING   WEST   WITH   ROSE  FRAU 
KARL    DRUSCHKI    IN    THE   FOREGRODND. 


PRIMULA  VISCOSA  AND  ITS  VARIETIES. 
This  charming  species  in  its  typical  form  is 
one  of  the  prettiest  of  our  rock  plants,  and  is 


PART  OF  THE   ROCK   GARDEN   AND    WATER   LILY   POND   IN    MR.    BOYCOTT  S  PEAlvLAND   GARDEN. 


also  one  of  the  easiest  to  manage.  It  thrives 
well  in  a  mixture  of  sandy  loam  and  a  little 
peat  wedged  between  and  in  the  chinks  of 
stones.  Perfect  drainage  is  essential,  and  in 
selecting  a  place  an  open  situation  should 
be  chosen  where  it  can  obtain  plenty  of 
light  ;  but  the  fissure  in  which  the  plant  is 
set  must  be  deep  and  moisture  within  reach  of 
the  roots. 

The  type  is  a  native  of  the  Pyrenees  and 
Alps  of  Central  Europe,  sjrowing  on  granitic 
rooks  at  a  fairly  high  elevation.  The  flowers 
of  the  typical  plant  are  rosy  purple,  with  a 
paler  eye,  and  are  borne  in  large  clusters 
on  stalks  only  a  few  inches  high.  Many  beauti- 
ful varieties  are  in  cultivation,  one  of  the  most 
attractive  being  that  represented  in  the  coloured 
plate,  Mrs.  J.  H.  Wilson,  which  is  there,  by  a 
printer's  error,  named  Mr.  J.  H.  Wilson.  This 
variety  is  a  valuable  acquisition,  having  been 
raised  by  Mr.  J.  H.  Wilson  of  Handsworth 
and  exhibited  by  him  on  April  23,  1901,  before 
the  floral  committee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  when  it  received  an  award  of  merit.  It 
has  a  good  constitution  and  is  extremely  free- 
blooming,  bearing  large  trusses  of  flowers  of  a 
rich  purple  shade,  with  a  well-defined  eye. 
Mr.  Wilson  says  that  the  plant  delights  in 
well-drained  soil,  shade  and  abundance  of 
air,  a  mulch  of  well-decayed  manure  being 
beneficial  during  the  summer.  Among  the 
other  varieties,  some  of  which  have  been 
accorded  specific  rank,  are :  P.  viscosa  var. 
ciliata,  which  is  very  robust  and  bears  large 
clusters  of  rich  purplish  rose-coloured  flowers. 
Of  this  variety,  again,  there  are  forms  with 
blooms  of  deeper  purple  and  crimson  shades  of 
colour.  P.  viscosa  var.  hirsuta  is  a  distinct 
form  with  pubescent  leaves  and  pale  mauve 
flowers  having  a  white  eye.  There  is  also  a 
variety  with  charming  white  flowers.  For 
culture  in  pans  for  the  alpine  house,  the  various 
forms  of  this  species  are  well  adapted,  as  they 
will  grow  freely  when  planted  between  broken 
pieces  of  sandstone  and  granite.  One,  if  not 
the  principal,  condition  is  thorough  drainage  in 
rich  soil  and  plenty  of  moisture  during  the 
growing  season.  W.  Irving. 

[The  plants  from  which  our  coloured  plate  was 
prepared  were  kindly  supplied  by  Messrs.  R. 
Wallace  and  Co. ,  Kilnfield  Gardens,  Colchester, 
who  have  bought  the  whole  stock  of  this  charming 
plant.  ^ — Ed.  J 


NovEirBEK  20,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


567 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN 


NOTES    ON    NEWER    ROSES.-IX. 


M" 


Hyekid  Teas. 
(Continued  Jrom  page  .7.55.) 

;  ME.  HECTOR  LEUILLIOT  (Pernet- 
Ducher,  1905). — This  promised  to 
be  a  great  addition  to  our  semi- 
climbing  or  pillar  Roses.  The 
flower  is  a  grand  colour,  but  I 
am  afraid  I  must  add  it  pro- 
duces very  few  blooms.  I  have  tried  it  as  a 
pillar  Rose,  and  this  season  it  has  had  quite  a 
favourable  position  on  a  wall ;  but  it  is  very 
sparing  with  its  flowers  (they  are  of  fine  colour, 
however,  and  of  good  size  when  they  come),  but 
one  expects  more  than  an  occasional  flower,  so 
this  Rose  will  come  out  of  my  garden  this  year. 
Billiard  et  Barre  is  still  the  best  of 
the  larger-flowered  yellow  semi- 
climbers. 

Mme.  J.  W.  Budde  (Soupert  et 
Notting,  1907).— This  is  a  good 
clear  self  bright  carmine  colour. 
The  flowers  are  of  medium  size, 
fairly  full  and  nearly  always  a 
good  shape.  It  is  a  good  grower 
and  a  useful  Rose,  and  would  be 
more  so  to  the  exhibitor  if  its 
flowers  would  only  come  a  little 
larger.  Still,  it  should  not  be 
altogether  ignored,  as  any  Rose 
that  produces  the  majority  of  its 
flowers  of  good  shape  is  likely  to 
be  of  more  effective  service 
(especially  where  the  number  of 
plants  grown  is  small)  than 
another  kind  that  may  give  an 
occasional  finer  flower,  but  which 
produces  a  large  number  of  split 
or  badly  shaped  blooms. 

Mme.  Jenny  Gillemot  (Pernet- 
Ducher,  1905). — This  is  one  of 
those  Roses  that,  described  in 
catalogues  as  deep  saffron  yellow, 
is  really,  by  the  time  it  is  fully 
expanded,  nearly  white.  The 
buds  and  the  inside  petals  of  a 
half-open  flower  have  colour  in 
them  that,  shaded  from  an  early 
stage,  might  be  termed  yellow, 
but  the  general  effect  of  a  bed  is 
nearer  white  than  any  other 
colour.  It  is  a  fine  bedding  Rose, 
of  vigorous  growth  and  very  free- 
floweriug.  The  petals  are  long 
and  of  good  substance,  and  the 
flowers  are  generally  pointed  and 
of  good  shape.  Well  shaded  and 
looked  after  it  will  give  an  exhi- 
bition bloom  early  in  the  season, 
but  midseason  flowers  are  of  little 
use  for  that  purpose.  It  Lf  one 
of  the  best  of  the  white  Roses 
with  yellow  base,  of  which  we 
have  had  not  a  few  of  late  years. 

Mme.    Louis    Bailly    (Guillot, 
1908). — This  is  sweet-scented,  but 
the  flower  is  too  small   for  the 
exhibitor  and  the  colour  hardly  good  enough  for  I 
bedding.     The  flowers  stand  well  out  from  the 
foliage   and   are   produced    on  sturdy  growths ; 
colour,  deep  cherry  red. 

Mme.  Leon  Pain  (Guillot,  1905). — This  is  a 
beautiful  Rose  that  I  can  recommend  to  all  who 
have  not  grown  it.  The  colour  varies  from 
silvery  salmon  to  palp  flesh,  with  a  centre  suffused 
with  orange  shading.  It  is  a  good  grower ;  flowers 
of  good  size  and  open  freely.  Altogether  a  first- 
rate  bedding  Rose  of  lovely  colour,  variable  in 
autumn. 

Mme.  Maurice  de  lyiize  (Pernet-Ducher,  1907). 
This  is  probably  the  best  of  this  raiser's  1907  set. 
It  is,  I  believe,  a  seedling  that  had  Mme.  Abel 
Chatonay  as  one  of  its  parents.     If  so,  there  is 


PKAKLAND    GARDEN  : 


little  resemblance  between  them  as  far  as  the  pleasing  to  find  the  raisers  naming  it  after  a 
shape  of  the  flower  is  concerned.  The  outside  connexion  of  a  rival  in  trade ;  but  1  'ernet-Dueher's 
petals  are  large,  of  good  breadth,  and  the  colour  '  reputation  is  already  made,  and  they  are 
is  a  deep  rose  pink,  with  a  carmine  or  deeper '  running  some  of  our  own  raisers  very  close  in 
centre,  the  outside  of  the  petals  being  slightly  i  popular  esteem  for  the  proud  position  of  the 
paler  in  colour.     I  quite  expect  to  see  this  Rose  ,  world's  premier  raisers. 

frequently  exhibited  next  season,  as  I  have  seen  |  Mme.  P.  Euler  (P.  Guillot,  190S). — This  I  am 
many  good  flowers  of  it  this  year.  It  is  very  i  inclined  to  think  is  going  to  be  a  good  Rose, 
free-flowering,  a  good  grower,  and  is  one  of  the  Cut  young  and  while  the  outside  petals  are  not 
best  of  the  newer  Roses.  too  far  developed,  it  is  a  very  fine   shape.     I 

Mme.  Melanie  Soupert  (Pernet-Ducher,  1906). —  believe  there  is  some  Marquise  Litta  blood  in  it. 
This  Rose  needs  no  commendation  of  mine.  As  i  but  I  may  be  wrong.  The  colour  is  vermilion 
an  exhibition  flower  it  is  more  than  useful ;  very  with  carmine  shading  ;  it  has  a  delightful  scent 
fine  flowers  of  it  have  been  exhibited  throughout  and  the  flowers  are  produced  on  long  stems.  Its 
the  kingdom.  A  Rose  at  Windsor  shown  by  ,  only  fault  seems  to  be  that  after  the  two  outside 
Mr.  G.  A.  Hammond  was  particularly  fine  ;  then  1  rows  of  petals  are  down,  a  rather  hard,  unshapely 
it  secured  the  medal  at  the  "National "  show  in  |  centre  is  apt  to  show  itself  which  refuses  to  open 
the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens  for  the  best  Hybrid  l  properly — butitmaybethatit onlyrequiresrather 
Tea  in  the  show  for  Messrs.  S.  McGredy  and  Son.  j  more  sun  than  it  has  had  thia  season.  It  is  free- 
As  a  bedder  it  is  the  best  of  its  colour  among  the  !  flowering,    of    good    growth,    and    well    worth 

trying  from  the  exhibitor's  point 
of  view.  I  do  not  mean  to  con- 
demn it  from  a  garden  point  of 
view  either.  I  am  sure  it  is  a 
great  gain  that  so  many  of  these 
new  Roses  are  useful  for  both 
purposes.  Formerly  few  Roses 
that  were  fit  for  exhibition  could 
be  called  good  garden  Roses ;  but 
the  advent  of  Caroline  Testout 
and  other  Hybrid  Teas  has  largely 
changed  that  feature,  and  now 
many  of  our  finest  exhibition 
varieties  are  good  decorative 
Roses,  too  ;  the  colour,  of  course, 
would  not  suit  everyone's  taste. 

Mme.  Segond  Weber  (Soupert 
et  Notting,  190S).— A  Rose  that 
came  to  us  with  a  high  reputation 
and  one  that  has  been  strongly 
recommended.  It  is  not  easy  to 
say  where  the  disappointment  lies, 
unless  it  is  in  the  colour,  which 
is  not  quite  distinct  enough.  I  do 
not  mean  that  there  is  any  other 
Rose  exactly  like  it  in  colour,  but 
it  is  not  bright  and  clear.  Rosy 
salmon  describes  it,  but  it  is 
dullish  rather  than  bright,  some- 
thing after  the  style  of  Mme. 
Edmee  Metz,  but  the  petals  have 
a  good  deal  more  substance  and 
are  of  a  better  texture  ;  the  flower 
is  large,  shapely  and  fragrant. 
The  raisers  say  it  is  the  best  Rose 
of  their  production.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly a  good  Rose,  particu- 
larly for  the  garden,  and  I  can 
strongly  recommend  it,  but  can- 
not go  quite  so  far  as  to  say,  as  I 
have  seen  it  described,  that  it  is 
"  the  most  perfect  Rose  as  to  size, 
shape,  colour  and  scent  which 
exists  at  the  present  moment." 

Mme.  Simone  Beaumez  (Pernet- 
Ducher,  1906).— This  is  a  beautiful 
Rose  ;  size  alone  prevents  it  from 
being  quite  first-rate.     The  flowers 
are  of  good  shape,  freely  and  con- 
tinuously produced  ;   colour,  pale 
flesh,   with  an  occasional   tint  of 
yellow  in  the  centre  ;  a  vigorous  grower.    I  have 
seen  fine  flowers  of  it,  but  with  me  it  has  not 
come  quite  large  enough  for  the  exhibitor. 

Margaret  (William  Paul  and  Son,  1909).— I 
have  been  struck  on  more  than  one  occasion  with 
the  beauty  of  this  Rose 'as  exhibited  by  the 
raisers.  It  is  a  fine,  pointed  flower  of 
Killarney  shape  with  rather  more  petals  and 
deeper  colouring,  and  one  that  I  think  very 
promising  and  certainly  worth  trying.  I  believe 
it  obtained  an  award  of  merit  from  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  at  the  Temple 
Show  this  year.  I  think  it  is  the  best  of  this 
raiser's  1909  set. 

Purley.  Herbert  E.  Molynbdx. 

(To  he  continued.) 


CHRYSANTHEMUM    MAXIMUM 
THE   BACKGROUND. 


WITH   BIRD  COTE   IN 


more  vigorous  growers.  It  is  not  quite  such  an 
ideal  bedder,  perhaps,  as  Mme.  Ravary,  not 
being  so  compact  in  growth ;  but  for  a  tall- 
growing  variety  to  match  in  habit  of  growth 
such  Roses  as  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Caroline 
Testout,  &c.,  it  is  the  best  yellow  Hybrid  Tea  in 
commerce.  The  colour  is  not  yellow  exactly, 
but  that  is  the  predominant  shade  ;  the 
catalogues  call  it  salmon  yellow  suffused  with 
pink.  The  exhibitor  must  shade  it ;  but  every 
Rose-grower  should  find  a  place  for  it  in  his 
garden,  as  it  is,  undoubtedly,  one  of  the  best 
half-dozen  Roses  of  recent  introduction,  and  is 
bound  to  become,  if  it  has  not  already  done  so, 
very  popular.  It  is  such  Roses  as  Mme.  Melanie 
Soupert  that  make  a  raiser's  reputation,  and  it  is 


568 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[NovEirBER  20,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 

HOW    TO    GET    EARLY    RHUBARB. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

THE  SHRUB  BORDER.  —  In  most 
localities  all  those  shrubs  which 
naturally  shed  their  leaves  in  the 
autumn  will  have  done  so  by  now, 
and  no  time  sliould  be  lost  in  making 
any  necessary  alterations  and  subse- 
quently making  the  whole  border 
tidy  for  the  winter.  In  all  proba- 
bility some  shrubs  will  need  moving 
from  their  present  positions  to  others 
in  the  same  border,  or  it  may  be 
necessary  to  remove  some  interior 
kinds  altogether  to  make  room  for 
more  up-to-date  subjects.  Before 
planting  new  shrubs  see  that  good 
holes  are  made  and  that  the  soil  is 
well  worked  to  a  depth  of  at  least 
18  inches.  After  removing  and  re- 
planting is  done,  any  dead  wood 
present  should  be  cut  out,  and  those 
shrubs  which  flower  in  autumn  may 
be  thinned  where  this  is  required, 
after  which  dig  up  the  soil  between 
the  shrubs  and  bury  all  weeds  and 
leaves  as  the  work  proceeds,  throw- 
ing some  clean  fresh  soil  under  the 
shrubs  where  it  is  impossible  to  dig. 

Flower  Oarden. — If  the  work  of 
planting  bulbs  is  not  already  com- 
pleted, this  should  be  finished  with- 
out delay,  as  bulbs  now  out  of  the 
ground  are  deteriorating.  Those 
beginners  who  have  not  already 
grown  them  should  try  a  few  Darwin 
and  other  May  -  flowering  Tulips, 
which,  though  they  flower  later,  are  far  superior 
to  the  ordinary  bedding  varieties.  The  range  of 
colours  obtainable  in  these  is  now  a  very  wide 
one,  and  the  flowers  are  excellent  for  cutting, 
as  all  possess  long,  stout  stems,  and,  in  addition, 
many  of  them  are  fragrant.  They  should  not 
be  planted  in  beds  where  early  summer  bedding 
has  to  be  done,  or  they  will  not  be  well  enough 
ripened  to  lift  in  time.  Planted  in  clumps  in 
the  border  the  bulbs  can  usually  be  allowed  to 
ripen  oflF  naturally. 

Fruit  Garden. — As  fast  as  pruning  and  other 
necessary  work  is  completed,  the  ground  between 
the  trees  should  be  lightly  forked  over.  Previous 
to  doing  this  go  round  the  trees  with  a  draw 
hoe  and  scrape  all  weeds  and  dead  leaves  from 
under  the  branches,  so  that  they  can  be  buried  as 
digging  proceeds.  Where  any  manure  is  to  be 
given,  this  should  then  be  applied,  and  as  digging 
is  being  done  this  manure  can  be  covered  with  a 
thin  layer  of  new  soil,  so  as  to  make  the  whole 
plot  clean  and  neat.  All  prunings  not  required 
for  grafting  should  have  been  collected  and 
burned  previous  to  the  digging. 

Vegetable  Oarden. — Take  advantage  of  a  wet 
day  to  look  over  the  Potatoes  in  store  and  reject 
any  bad  ones  that  may  be  found,  otherwise  they 
are  likely  to  afleot  others  that  they  come  into 
contact  with.  Reports  to  hand  from  various 
sources  state  that  Potatoes  are  keeping  very 
badly  this  year  ;  hence  there  is  more  than  the 
usual  necessity  for  doing  this  work.  All  diseased 
tubers  should  be  burned.  The  good  ones  must 
be  stored  in  a  dark  place  and  be  well  protected 
against  frost,  which  we  may  get  severe  any  night 
now  ;  other  roots  in  store  should  also  be  looked 
at  as  opportunity  occurs.  Where  a  frame  is 
available,  any  good-sized  Lettuce  and  Endive 
plants  standing  outside  may  be  lifted  with  good 
balls  of  soil  and  stood  on  a  hard  bottom  in  the 
frame  so  as  not  to  quite  touch  each  other,  working 


a  little  fine  soil  among  the  roots.  If  ventilated 
freely  whenever  possible,  these  plants  will  come 
in  very  useful  early  in  the  year. 

Room  and  Window  Plants.  —  Now  that  the 
days  are  short  and  dull,  these  plants  should  be 
thoroughly  cleansed  by  sponging  or,  in  the  case 


newspapers  or  sheets  of  brown  paper  around 
them  to  divert  cold  air  currents.  Water  must 
be  given  very  cautiously  from  now  till  February, 
as  growth  in  most  cases  is  at  a  standstill,  and  the 
plants  in  most  cases  will  need  it  only  at  long 
intervals.  Of  course  much  will  depend  on  tlie 
temperature  of  the  room  in  which  the  plants  are 
being  grown — the  warmer  the  tem- 
perature the  more  frequently  water 
will  be  needed.  H. 


FORCING    RHUBARB. 

Forced  Rhubarb  is  much  appreciated 
so  soon  as  the  Christmas  festivities 
are  over.  At  that  time  the  fruit  of 
our  orchards  is  becoming  scarce,  and 
those  who  are  responsible  for  main- 
taining the  supplies  of  the  kitchen 
naturally  look  round  to  see  how  the 
strain  upon  Apples,  Pears  and  such- 
like fruits  may  be  relieved.  The 
scarcity  of  cheap  fruit,  however,  ia 
the  chief  reason  for  forcing  Rhubarb  ; 
and  those  who  possess  the  inestimable 
boon  of  a  garden  are  keen  in  their 
desire  to  make  the  most  of  their 
circumstances,  and  make  an  attempt 
to  meet  the  deficiencies  of  the  kitchen 
in  the  winter  months. 

To  begin  the  New  Year  with 
supplies  early  work  is  necessary,  and 
if  they  are  to  be  continued  the  work 
must  also  be  continuous.  Fortu- 
nately, the  forcing  of  Rhubarb  is  not 
by  any  means  difficult  to  carry  into 
effect.  Methods  of  forcing  are  varied 
of  Ferns  and  Araucarias,  syringing  with  warm  and  interesting,  and  many  different  modes  are 
soapy  water,  so  as  to  open  the  pores  of  the  leaves,  practised  with  equal  success.  Some  growers 
Any  tender  subjects,  such  as  Pelargoniums,  that    make  a  point  of  preparing  a  small  border   in 


.i  STRONG  ROOT  OF  RHUBARB  LIFTED  READY  FOR  FORCING.  THE 
SOIL  HAS  BEEN  REMOVED  FROM  THE  ROOTS  FOR  THE  PURPOSE 
OF  PHOTOGRAPHINO   THEM. 


are  grown  in  the  window  should  be  removed  at 
night  and  stood  in  the  warmest  corner  of  the 
room.     Protect  them,  if  necessary,  by  hanging 


2. — FORCING  RHUBARB  OUTDOORS.  THE  CROWNS 
ARE  VISIBLE  IN  THE  FOREOROUND  WITH 
A  SBAKALE  POT  IN   THE  REAR. 


a  southern  aspect,  if  possible  under  the  protec- 
tion of  a  wall,  hedge  or  close  fence.  More  often, 
however,  roots  with  promising  crowns  are  lifted 
and  planted  under  glass,  in  frames,  or  in  a 
Mushroom  house,  where  it  is  an  extremely  simple 
thing  to  ensure  supplies  of  good  quality. 

Beginners  may  be  in  some  doubt  as  to  when 
the  roots  should  be  lifted  for  forcing  purposes. 
They  may  be  lifted  at  any  time  after  the  leaves 
die  away  in  the  autumn.  Until  quite  recently, 
owing  to  the  extremely  moist  and  sunlees 
weather  of  the  past  few  months,  the  leaves  have 
not  died  down  so  early  as  usual ;  but  the  frosts 
of  a  few  days  since  have  brought  about  a  change, 
and  the  roots  may  be  lifted  as  and  when  required 
from  this  time  forth.  Those  who  are  adept  in 
raising  Rhubarb  under  cover  as  we  have  suggested 
prefer  to  leave  the  roots  exposed  in  the  open 
to  a  slight  frost  or  two  before  placing  them 
in  their  forcing  quarters,  as  they  invariably 
break  into  growth  better  when  once  they  are 
placed  in  heat.  For  the  earliest  work  it  is 
necessary  to  lift  the  more  vigorous-looking  roots 
in  the  closing  days  of  October  or  throughout 
November.  Prospects  of  a  Eatisfactory  forcing 
of  this  crop  are  improved  when  the  lifted  roots 
are  very  strong  and  not  more  than  two  or  three 
3-ear8  old.  That  readers  may  understand  what 
a  vigorous  root  is,  a  typical  specimen  is  portrayed 
in  Fig.  1.  In  ordinary  circumstances  we  should 
disturb  the  soil  round  about  the  roots  as  little 
as  possible  ;  but  for  the  purpose  of  photographing 
the  soil  has  been  removed. 

I  have  already  said  there  are  numerous 
places  in  which  the  roots  or  crowns  can  be 
planted  for  forcing,  and  there  is  no  more  useful 
place  than  that  under  the  stage  of  a  warm  green- 
house where  the  temperature  can  be  maintained 
at  from  55°  to  60°.  It  is  almost  necessary,  how- 
ever, that  the  quarters  should  be  made  dark,  as 


November  20,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


569 


3. — THE  SEAKALE  POT  ADJUSTED  IN  POSITIOK 
OVER  THE  RHUBARB  CROWNS  AND  ALMOST 
COVERED  WITH  LEAVES  TO  PROMOTE  THE 
NECESSARY  WARMTH  FOB  FORCING.  STABLE 
LITTER  MAY  ALSO  BE   USED. 

growth  is  then  more  rapid.  A  warm  cellar  can 
be  utilised  for  the  same  purpose  with  advantage, 
especially  for  supplies  that  are  wanted  in  January 
and  later.  Those  who  possess  a  Mushroom  house 
have  an  immense  advantage  over  other  growers. 
There  is  no  more  suitable  place  than  this.  The 
conditions  that  usually  prevail  there  are  all  that 
could  be  desired,  and  the  crop  seldom  fails  when 
properly  looked  after.  The  floor  of  the  Mush- 
room house  should  be  covered  with  about 
3  inches  of  good  soil,  and  the  roots  then  adjusted 
in  position,  working  some  light  soil  between  and 
around  them  to  complete  the  planting.  It  is 
important  to  remember  that  when  forcing 
Bhubarb  the  roots  must  be  maintained  in  a 
moistened  condition.  Especially  is  this  neces- 
sary when  the  conditions  are  rather  warmer 
than  usual ;  frequent  sprinklings  with  tepid 
water  will  assist  very  materially  to  promote  the 
well-being  of  the  crop. 

To  follow  the  earliest  supplies  under  glass  and 
from  other  quarters,  beds  outdoors  should  be 
utilised  to  their  fullest  extent.  Beds  and  borders 
made  up  under  a  wall  or  a  close  fence  facing  south, 
as  already  mentioned,  are  excellent  situations  for 
subsequent  supplies,  and  from  such  quarters  a 
second  crop  should  be  obtained.  This  is  perhaps 
the  simplest  way  of  all  of  forcing  Rhubarb,  as 
splendid  crops  may  be  obtained  with  the  mini- 
mum of  trouble.  When  Rhubarb  is  forced  in  the 
open  the  grower  may  utilise  the  services  of 
coverings  used  for  forcing  Seakale,  such  as  boxes, 
barrels  of  various  descriptions — in  fact,  anything 
that  will  cover  the  roots  and  that  has  sufficient 
head  room.  In  Fig.  2  is  shown  a  root  of  Rhubarb 
with  the  crowns  just  visible  above  the  ground, 
and  with  a  Seakale  pot  placed  at  the  back  of  it 
in  readiness  for  covering  preparatory  to  com- 
mencing forcing  operations.  It  will  be  observed 
that  the  Seakale  pot  has  a  lid  that  is  detachable. 
The  reason  for  this  is  that  an  inspection  of  the 
crop  may  be  made  from  time  to  time  to  ascertain 
when  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  lid  is  always  in 
position  in  order  to  keep  the  crowns  in  darkness. 

Fig.  3  illustrates  the  Seakale  pot  adjusted  in 
position  and  almost  covered  with  leaves  or  other 
littery  material,  by  which  means  the  Rhubarb  is 
forced.  In  this  illustration  the  lid  of  the  forcing 
pot   is   just  visible.     This  may  be  exclusively 


covered  in  the  cold  days  of  January,  February 
and  early  March,  by  this  means  maintaining  a 
more  equable  temperature. 

For  raising  crops  of  some  of  the  more  vigorous 
and  taller-growing  Rhubarbs,  such  as  Hobday's 
Giant,  I  prefer  to  use  empty  Apple  barrels. 
These  should  have  the  ends  knocked  out,  and  the 
better  end  preserved  intact  for  covering  purposes. 
In  Fig.  4  an  Apple  barrel,  as  used  for  forcing 
these  taller-growing  Rhubarbs  outdoors,  is  shown. 
Here  it  will  be  observed  the  ban  el  is  placed  in 
position  over  the  Rhubarb  root,  with  the  lid 
slightly  tilted  to  show  it  is  not  fixed,  and  can  be 
adjusted  after  inspecting  the  crop.  The  barrel 
is  partially  embedded  in  warm  stable  litter, 
which  will  encourage  the  roots  to  start,  and 
subsequently,  if  needs  be,  the  whole  barrel  can 
be  covered  with  the  same  littery  material. 
Leaves  and  stable  litter  used  in  conjunction  are 
better,  as  the  heat  does  not  then  get  too  fierce. 
The  coverings  should  be  tested  occasionally,  so  that 
the  latter  condition  may  be  avoided.     D.  B.  C. 

PARSLEY  FOR  THE  WINTER. 
In  winter  and  spring  time  a  regular  supply  of 
Parsley  is  very  acceptable ;  but  when  the  weather 
is  very  severe  and  frosts  prolonged,  it  is  quite 
impossible  to  obtain  good  produce  from  the  open 
borders.  The  plants  may  live  and  commence  to 
grow  again  the  following  spring,  however  severe 
the  winter  may  have  been,  but  in  the  meantime 
there  is  no  Parsley  available.  At  any  time 
during  the  months  of  October,  November  and 
December  strong  roots — not  too  old,  of  course — 
may  be  lifted  from  the  open  border  and  trans- 
planted in  frames,  boxes  or  flower-pots.  If 
Parsley  is  required  in  large  quantities,  then  plant 
in  the  frames  ;  if  medium  supplies  are  needed, 
then  the  deep  boxes  will  accommodate  a  sufficient 
number  of  plants ;  but  where  a  small  demand 
exists,  the  flower-pots  will  prove  serviceable. 
Indeed,  I  like  growing  Parsley  plants  in  pots, 
because  there  is  ample  depth  in  7-inch  and  8-inch 
pots  for  the  long  roots.  When  lifted  every  root 
must  be  carefully  examined,  and  all  those  show- 
ing a  trace  of  canker  must  be  rejected.  Probably 
many  of  the  old  leaves  will  soon  become  useless, 
but  new  ones  will  grow.  Drain  both  the  pots 
and  the  boxes  efficiently,  and  use  a  rather  light 
compost  made  moderately  firm  around  the 
roots.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 

The  Clematis. — The  Clematis,  as  a  wall  and 
pillar  plant,  is  not  surpassed  by  any  other  kind 
of  creeper  or  climber.  The  branches  are  not 
self-supporting,  but  they  are  readily  tied  up  to 
supports  and  quickly  cover  much  space.  The 
Clematis,  as  a  climber,  possesses  many  good 
points — free  growth  in  almost  any  situation  (a 
strong  point  in  favour  of  the  plant  as  a  town 
garden  ornament),  free  flowering,  distinctive 
colours  and  easy  management.  The  present  is  a 
good  time  to  put  in  a  number  of  Clematises. 
There  is  no  need  to  confine  the  number  to 
several  of  Clematis  Jackmanii,  although  this  is 
such  a  general  favourite ;  but  some  of  the  best 
positions  should  be  devoted  to  the  white  variety — 
for  instance,  on  dwelling-house  walls,  porches  and 
near  windows,  although  it  forms  a  lovely  pillar 
plant  or  one  for  a  pergola.  For  covering  arbours, 
high  fences  andj  similar  structures,  Clematis 
montana,  C.  Viticella  rubra  grandiflora,  C.  Louis 
van  Houtte,  C.  Flammula,  C.  lanuginosa  and 
C.  cierulea  odorata  are  grand  types.  In  addition 
to  the  uses  to  which  these  lovely  plants  may  be 
put  as  stated  above,  they  may  also  be  grown  so 
that  the  shoots  trail  over  rockwork,  old  tree 
stumps,  and  also  on  wires  about  18  inches  from 
the  ground  so  as  to  take  the  place  of  bedding-out 
plants. 

The  Soil. — Too  often,  I  am  afraid,  Clematises 
are  planted  in  soil  which  is  not  suitable  for  them, 
it  being  too  clayey  or  heavy  and  tenacious  of 


moisture.  A  light,  dry  rooting  medium  is  the 
best.  Loam  two  parts,  leaf-soil  one  part,  peat 
one  part,  and  some  coarse  sand  form  a  capital 
compost  to  use  where  the  original  soil  is  of  a 
clayey  nature,  and  a  barrow-load  of  the  prepared 
compost  for  each  plant  will  prove  sufficient  to 
give  it  a  grand  start  and  enable  it  to  retain  good 
health  and  vigour  for  many  years.  Where  the 
soil  is  sandy  or  light  in  nature,  old  turfy  loam 
and  well -decayed  leaf -soil  should  be  used. 
Clematis  plants  will  grow  in  pure  leaf -soil  alone  ; 
this  proves  their  liking  for  it,  but  the  wood 
made,  in  the  circumstances,  is  too  soft  and 
sappy.  The  plants  of  Clematis  Jackmanii,  after 
having  several  seasons'  growth,  often  get  top- 
heavy  and  bare  near  the  base.  This  unsatis- 
factory condition  often  follows  bad  pruning. 
Instead  of  freely  cutting  down  the  plants  to 
within  at  least  2  feet  from  their  base,  or  the  base 
of  the  current  year's  growth,  annually,  the  tops 
only  are  cut  off;  result,  no  fresh  shoots  grow 
from  the  base,  and  that  part  becomes  bare. 

The  Lawns. — The  town  gardener  is  always 
trying  to  obtain  a  perfect  lawn,  and  in  his 
striving  after  perfection  in  this  direction  he  often 
overdoes  it  ;  that  is,  he  treats  his  lawn  too  well. 
I  remember  taking  particular  notice  of  an 
amateur's  lawn  and  watching  the  treatment 
during  an  autumn,  winter  and  spring — and  the 
result.  Early  in  the  autumn  a  nice  top-dressing 
of  rotted  manure  and  soil  was  put  on  and,  in  due 
course,  this  dressing  had  a  beneficial  efi'eot. 
No  doubt  if  the  lawn  had  been  allowed  to  rest  at 
that  a  much-improved  turf  would  have  resulted 
the  following  summer  ;  but  in  the  early  part  of 
spring  a  still  heavier  dressing  of  manure  was  put 
on,  and  this  quite  killed  the  grass  in  patches  all 
over  the  lawn.  Great  flakes  of  manure  were 
allowed  to  lie  on  the  surface  for  many  days 
without  being  broken  up,  and  eventually  the 
grass  beneath  them  turned  yellow  and  perished. 
Ambderatelylightdressing  is  much  more  beneficial 
than  a  heavy  one,  and  all  such  surface  dressings 
must  be  put  on  during  the  autumn,  so  that  the 
rains  of  the  winter  will  wash  in  the  goodness 
contained  in  them,  and  then  when  spring  comes 
there  will  not  be  an  accumulation  of  soil  and 
manure  on  the  lawn.  Avon. 


-AN  APPLE  BARREL  USED  FOR  FORCING 
RHUBARB.  BOTH  ENDS  OF  THE  BARREL 
ARE  KNOCKED  OUT  AND  THE  UPPER  ONE, 
AS  SHOWN  IN  THE  ILLUSTRATION,  RETAINED 
FOR  COVERING,  SO  THAT  INSPECTION  OF 
THE  GROWING   CROP  MAT  BE  MADE. 


570 


THE     GARDEN. 


[November  20,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF    THE 
WEEK. 


FOK    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 

VINES. —The  weather  has  been  for 
several  weeks  most  unfavourable  for 
the  ripening  of  the  wood  which  is  so 
necessary  for  the  production  of  good 
crops  another  season.  In  some  in- 
stances the  foliage  is  still  quite  green 
and  fresh,  and  will  need  plenty  of  fire-heat  and 
an  abundance  of  air  daily  to  improve  matters  ; 
but  as  soon  as  the  crops  have  been  gathered  and 
the  leaves  fallen,  lose  no  time  in  getting  the 
Vines  pruned  and  thoroughly  cleansed  and 
dressed,  so  that  they  are  ready  to  start  when  the 
proper  time  arrives. 

If  goodaccommodationexistsfor  keeping  Grapes 
when  bottled,  they  should,  with  the  exception 
of  very  late  ones,  now  be  cut,  removing  as  much 
wood  with  the  bunch  as  can  be  spared.  Fill  the 
bottles  with  clean  soft  water,  and  drop  a  few 
pieces  of  fresh  charcoal  into  each.  If  kept  in  a 
cool  and  moderately  dry  temperature,  the  berries 
will  remain  sound  and  plump  for  several  weeks 
and  the  Vines  vrill  be  at  rest.  If  young  Vines 
are  to  be  propagated  in  spring,  a  quantity  of  the 
prunings  should  be  tied  up  in  bundles,  correctly 
labelled  and  heeled  in  an  outside  border.  Keep 
a  watchful  eye  on  all  Grapes  that  are  hanging  on 
the  Vines,  and  remove  any  decayed  berries. 

Figs  planted  in  restricted  borders  must  not  be 
allowed  to  suffer  from  dryness  at  the  roots.  If 
not  pruned  they  may  be  taken  in  hand  at  once. 
Cut  away  long,  useless  wood  and  preserve  plenty 
of  stout,  short-jointed  shoots,  as  from  these  the 
best  crops  are  usually  produced.  Cleanse  every 
branch  thoroughly,  wash  the  glass  and  wood- 
work, and  lime-wash  the  walls,  so  that  all  is 
made  clean  and  sweet. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 
Bases  in  Pots. — These  may  now  be  pruned  for 
starting  when  required.  See  that  the  soil  is  free 
from  worms,  the  drainage  good,  and  top-dress 
after  removing  a  part  of  the  old  soil,  using 
sweet  loam,  bone-meal  and  well-decayed  manure. 
Cinerarias  should  be  given  a  good  light 
position  where  plenty  of  air  can  be  freely  sup- 
plied during  favourable  weather.  Allow  ample 
room  for  growth  and  feed  at  intervals  with  weak 
liquid  manure.  Fumigate  should  aphis  attack 
the  leaves,  and  use  the  syringe  when  necessary. 
Bulbs. — Examine  those  covered  with  coal-ashes 
at  intervals,  removing  them  before  the  tips  of  the 
new  growths  get  injured.  Narcissi,  early  Tulips 
and  Roman  Hyacinths  should  be  taken  into  a 
slightly  warmed  house  at  intervals,  according  to 
demand,  and  a  week  subsequently  they  may  be 
placed  in  a  warmer  temperature,  if  necessary,  to 
hasten  growth. 

Larye  Camellias,  both  in  pots  and  planted  out, 
will  need  heavy  supplies  of  water  at  intervals. 
If  the  roots  are  examined  and  found  very  dry, 
slightly  loosen  the  surface  and  water  two  or 
three  times  till  the  whole  ball  of  earth  and  roots 
is  well  moistened.  Keep  the  foliage  free  from 
thrips  and  other  insects,  and  in  some  instances 
the  flower-buds  will  be  all  the  better  if  thinned. 
Attend  to  any  Azalea  indioa  and  Heaths  whose 
roots  have  tightly  filled  the  pots,  and  when  water 
is  required  give  enough  to  soak  the  whole. 

Tree  Ferns  with  masses  of  roots  should  also 
receive  every  care  and  attention  in  the  above 
respect.  Too  dry  at  the  roots  means  loss  of 
fronds  and  encouragement  of  thrips.  Agapanthus 
umbellatus  in  large  pots  and  tubs  should  be  kept 
on  the  dry  side  for  some  time  during  winter,  and 
although  fairly  hardy,  they  should  be  wintered  in 
a  rather  dry  atmosphere,  such  as  a  cool  vinery  or 
frostproof  sheds.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
(V^rotham  Park  Qardens,  Bamet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

The  Flower  Garden. 
Roses. — The  season  for  planting  being  at  hand, 
the  soil  should  be  got  ready  for  the  plants  when 
received  from  the  nursery,  so  that  unnecessary 
delay  in  getting  them  into  permanent  positions 
is  obviated.  If  the  beds  were  manured  and  pre- 
pared as  advised  a  short  time  ago,  the  newly 
turned  and  deeply  worked  soil  will  have  again 
become  somewhat  consolidated.  It  is  important 
that  a  small  quantity  of  good  soil,  quite  free  of 
fresh  manure,  is  used  about  the  roots.  This 
prepared  and  placed  under  cover  will  enable  the 
work  of  planting  to  be  proceeded  with  at  a  time 
when  the  weather  conditions  are  not  of  the  best. 
Dwarf  plants  are  most  in  favour  at  present  as 
being  more  amenable  to  cultivation  and,  generally 
speaking,  longer  lived  than  standards.  The 
latter,  however,  are  useful  for  relieving  the 
monotony  or  sameness  that  is  apt  to  be  too 
prominent  where  none  but  dwarf  plants  are 
adhered  to.  The  former  may  be  planted  about 
20  inches  apart,  or,  if  in  large  masses,  rather 
more  than  this  about  the  central  part  of  the 
plantation.  It  is  important  with  these  that  the 
point  of  union  is,  when  all  is  finished,  about 
•2  inches  below  the  surface  soil. 

Labelling. — The  enthusiast  may  possibly  know 
most  of  the  varieties  at  sight,  but  the  great 
majority  of  cultivators  require  some  system  of 
naming  to  refresh  their  memories  and  add  interest 
when  the  plants  are  in  bloom.  Metal  labels  in 
several  forms  can  be  procured  cheaply,  and  these 
loosely  wired  to  a  iron  pin,  some  18  inches  in 
length,  are  very  durable  and  inconspicuous. 
The  Pleasure  Grounds. 
Climhing  i?08e8.— The  wealth  of  forms  and 
colouring,  as  well  as  freedom  of  growth,  among 
these  is  remarkable.  Objects  unpleasiug  to  the 
eye  may,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  be 
hidden  by  planting  against  them  one  or  more  of 
these  rapid  spreading  plants.  Trees  past  their 
best  are  often  in  evidence,  and  these  instead  of 
being  removed  will,  if  beheaded,  according  to 
the  exigences  of  the  case,  support  a  climbing 
Rose  that  will  prove  an  object  of  great  beauty 
for  many  years.  The  conifer  family  in  this 
respect  is  unique  and  good.  In  planting,  a  large 
hole  should  first  be  excavated,  for  preference  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  tree  stem,  and  be  filled 
with  a  good  compost.  Insert  the  roots,  which,  if 
turned  out  of  a  pot,  should  be  carefully  dis- 
entangled and  spread  out  and  covered  with  a  few 
inches  in  depth  of  earth.  Other  climbing  plants, 
such  as  Clematis  in  great  variety,  Lonioera, 
Jasminum,  Polygonum  baldschuanicum,  Solanum, 
Vitis  and  Wistaria  are  all  suitable,  and  sufii- 
ciently  hardy  in  most  districts  for  planting  in  this 
way. 

Indoor  Plants. 

Carnations. — The  recent  wet  weather  has  been 
adverse  to  these,  and  has  necessitated  the  appli- 
cation of  more  fire-heat  to  create  a  buoyancy 
in  the  atmosphere  than  is  desirable.  Plants 
in  flower  should  be  frequently  inspected  and 
have  bad  petals  or  decaying  foliage  removed.  To 
mitigate  the  evil  of  damping,  watering  may  now 
be  reduced  to  the  lowest  limit,  taking  advantage 
of  a  breezy  or  bright  day  to  thoroughly  moisten 
the  rooting  medium  of  any  plants  that  are  in 
need  of  it. 

Chrysanthemums. — Large  blooms,  but  more 
especially  those  rather  far  advanced  before  the 
plants  were  housed,  are  prone  to  exhibit  faulty 
and  discoloured  petals  as  they  develop.  Timely 
removal  of  all  such  is  the  only  remedy,  or,  if  very 
bad,  the  whole  bloom  is  best  discarded  before  the 
infection  spreads  to  others  near  at  hand.  Apply 
manure-water  sparingly,  though  late-flowering 
varieties  scarcely  beyond  the  stage  of  bud  forma- 
tion must  be  assisted  in  this  way  for  a  time 
longer.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn.) 

Qalloway  House,  Oarlieslon,  Wigtownshire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 


L.t-;lio-Cattley.\  Baroness  SciiRiioER  variety 
Mme.  Henriette. — This  is  a  beautiful  form  of  a 
well-known  Orchid,  the  large  sepals  and  petals 
being  bright  rosy  mauve  streaked  with  carmine, 
a  broad  stripe  of  this  colour  running  down  the 
centre  of  the  petals.  The  sepals  are  narrow  and 
acutely  pointed,  the  petals  being  nearly  four 
times  as  broad.  The  lower  portion  of  the 
medium-sized  labellum  is  very  rich  yellow,  this 
colour  extending  well  into  the  throat.  At  tne 
apex  is  a  large,  rich  carmine  blotch,  the  whole 
labellum  being  heavily  fringed.  Shown  by 
Comte  Joseph  de  Heniptinne,  St.  Benis  Wes- 
trem,  Ghent.     Award  of  merit. 

Lcelio-Cailleya  Corunna  Westonbirt  variety. — 
A  beautiful  flower  of  rich  colouring.  The  sepals 
and  petals  are  rich  purple  in  colour,  the  large 
labellum  being  very  deep  claret,  with  rich  yellow 
striation  extending  into  the  throat.  Shown 
by  Lieutenant-Colonel  G.  L.  Holford,  C.I.E., 
C.V.O.,  Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire. 
Award  of  merit. 

Nephrolepis  exaltata  Marshallii. — It  is  difficult 
indeed  to  find  words  to  convey  an  adequate  idea 
of  the  filmy  grace  and  beauty  of  this  remarkable 
novelty,  whose  densely  plumose  fronds  are  of  the 
finest  possible  texture,  and  overlapping  each 
other  hang  over  the  sides  of  the  pot  to  form 
one  of  the  most  delightful  subjects  imaginable. 
A  sport  from  the  very  beautiful  N.  e.  Amerpohlii, 
it  quite  surpasses  this  in  its  delicate  and  elegant 
grace.  Usually  in  a  case  of  this  kind  a  new 
plant  is  submitted  as  a  solitary  example  only, 
whereas  on  this  occasion  a  superb  bank  of  plants 
was  arranged,  thus  affording  a  good  idea  of  its 
value.  This  remarkable  novelty  originated  with 
Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons,  Edmonton,  and  was 
unanimously  awarded  a  first-class  certificate. 

Begonia  The  Gem.— An  excellent  addition  to 
the  winter-flowering  section,  which  has  been 
evolved  by  the  intercrossing  of  tuberous-rooted 
varieties  with  B.  socotrana.  The  newcomer  is 
of  an  erect  habit  of  growth,  the  blossoms  of  a 
semi-double  character  and  coloured  a  deep  car- 
mine red.  The  flowers  are  erectly  held  on  short, 
stout  footstalks,  and  in  this  way  the  variety  is 
quite  distinct  from  others  which  have  preceded  it. 
The  plant  is  a  most  profuse  bloomer.  Shown  by 
Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited, 
Chelsea.     Award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  Lingwoods  Pride.  —A  large, 
single,  pink-flowered  variety  of  much  promise, 
the  flower-heads  being  supported  on  very  long 
stems.  Shown  by  Messrs.  J.  Peed  and  Sons, 
West  Norwood.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  above  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  9  th  inst.,  when 
the  awards  were  made. 


THE    EDITOR'S    TABLE. 


Medlar  Flowers  from  Bristol. 
Mr.  H.  Henderson,  The  Gardens,  Bownham 
House,  Clifton,  Bristol,  sends  us  flowering 
sprays  of  the  Medlar.  Mr.  Henderson  writes 
on  November  4  ;  "  I  am  sending  you  a  few  twigs 
in  flower  of  the  Stoneless  Medlar.  I  have  never 
seen  the  Medlar  in  flower  this  time  of  the  year 
before.  We  had  7°  of  frost  on  <  )3tober  16,  after 
which  I  cut  four  nice  twigs  of  Apple  blossom. 
I  think  this  is  due  to  the  unusual  weather  that 
we  have  had." 


Kaffir  Lilies  from  Sussex. 
Mrs.  C.  Maiden,  Henley  House,  Frant,  Sussex, 
sends  us  flowers  and  foliage  of  the  beautiful 
autumn-blooming  bulbous  plant,  Sohizostylis 
coccinea,  which  are  most  welcome,  coming  as 
they  do  in  the  dull  days  of  November.  We 
fully  endorse  all  our  correspondent  says  about 
these    charming    and    graceful    flowers.       Mrs. 


November  20,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


571 


Maiden  writes  :  "I  am  sending  for  your  table 
some  Kaffir  Lilies  (Schizostylis  oocoinea) ;  they 
are  in  full  beauty  with  me  now,  and  I  think  they 
are  good  enough  to  send  to  you.  They  had  to 
put  up  with  8°  of  frost  last  week,  and  every 
night  now  we  have  a  ground  frost,  so  they  are 
fairly  hardy.  I  believe  they  get  hardier  year  by 
year ;  they  certainly  spread  enormously  here. 
They  do  not  like  a  lot  of  rain  when  they  are  flower- 
ing ;  that  is  the  only  thing  I  find  they  object  to. 
I  often  wonder  they  are  not  more  grown.  Surely 
anything  that  flowers  like  this  in  November  is 
worth  a  place  in  every  garden." 


Autumn  Tints  and  Berries. 

Messrs.  James  ^'eitch  and  Sons  send  a  selection 
of  shoots  of  shrubs  that  are  conspicuous  either 
tor  the  beauty  of  their  leaves  or  of  the  berries. 
This  year  there  is  no  general  colouring  worth 
speaking  about,  and  it  is,  therefore,  all  the  more 
interesting  to  know  the  names  of  those  tints  that 
have  given  beauty  to  the  garden.  A  charming 
shrub  is  that  of  the 

Snowberry,  called  Symphorioarpus  mollis, 
and  when  it  becomes  better  known  it  is  sure  to 
be  largely  planted  in  our  gardens.  It  is  the  kind 
of  shrub  to  make  a  large  group  of  on  the  fringe 
of  a  woodland  or  by  itself.  The  leaves  are 
larger  than  those  of  the  common  kind,  the  fruits 
individually,  too,  their  shape  more  oval  than 
round,  and  they  are  produced  more  abundantly. 

Pemeltyamucronata. — This  is  always  welcome 
for  the  rich  green  of  the  leaves  and  the  wealth 
and  diversity  of  colouring  in  the  berries.  The 
Pernettyas  grow  more  vigorously  than  many 
suppose,  enjoying  best  a  damp,  peaty  soil.  In 
many  Irish  gardens  they  are  delightlul,  fruiting 
and  growing  more  freely  than  in  this  country. 

Vacciniuii)  corymboium. — One  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  Vaooiniums,  and  the  leaves  sent 
testify  to  the  warmth  of  their  autumn  colours. 
The  shrub  grows  from  5  feet  to  10  feet  high,  and 
the  colours  in  autumn  are  crimson  and  rich 
crimson-brown. 

White-Jruited  Dogwood  (Cornus  alba). — Of  the 
trees nativeof  NorthernAsia  and  Siberia thisisone 
of  the  most  important.  It  is  called  while-fruited, 
of  course,  in  allusion  to  the  fruits,  which  are  in 
large  clusters,  their  pearly  white  colour  being 
in  strong  contrast  to  the  crimson  colouring  of 
the  stems.  A  variety  of  this  is  well  known  in 
our  gardens,  and  may  be  considered  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  variegated  shrubs,  namely, 
C.  alba  Spathii,  the  leaves  having  a  bronzy  tiuL 
in  spring,  and  then  turning  to  green,  margined 
with  golden  yellow. 

Stuarlia  ptntagyna  belongs  to  a  group  of  beau- 
tiful shrubs  which  we  have  frequently  seen  in 
flower  at  Messrs.  Veitoh's  Coombe  Wood  nursery. 
The  best-known,  perhaps,  is  the  Japanese  S. 
Pseudo-Camellia,  S.  pentagyna  bearing  its 
creamy  white  flowers  from  May  until  July,  and 
in  the  autumn  there  is  the  deep  chocolate  colour- 
ing of  the  foliage. 

eiea  Buckthorn  (Hippophae  rhamnoides). — It  is 
always  a  pleasure  to  see  sboots  of  this  silvery 
grey  shrub  smothered  through  the  winter  months 
with  orange-coloured  berries.  One  mu.y  some- 
times meet  with  it  wild  on  the  eastern  coasts. 
The  spreading  growth,  the  silvery  colour  of  the 
narrowleaves,  and  orange  berries  givecolour  to  the 
garden  when  it  is  most  needed.  It  will  grow  as 
well  inland  as  by  the  sea,  and  should  always  be 
planted  in  good  soil.  A  noble  group  of  it  may 
be  seen  by  ihe  large  pond  in  Kew  Gardens,  and 
it  is  necessary  to  plant  one  female  plant  to  six  of 
the  male,  otherwise  there  will  be  no  fruit. 

Caroliiiu  Allspice  (Calycanthus  florida)  is,  as 
the  popular  name  suggests,  a  native  of  Carolina  ; 
it  is  a  spreading  shrub  seldom  more  than  6  feet 
high,  and  has  dark-coloured,  sweet-scented 
flowers  The  leaves  turn  to  a  rich  crimson  and 
green  shade  in  autumn. 

Parrotia  persica. — This  tree  is  greatly  admired 
for  its  autumn  tints.  It  is  called  the  Iron  Tree 
and  comes  from  Persia.   When  autumn  approaches 


the  large,  deep  green  leaves  turn  to  brilliant 
colours — orange,  yellow  and  shades  of  crimson, 
The  flowers  appear  in  February,  and  the  stamens 
have  crimson  tips,  which  render  them  easily  seen  ; 
but  the  autumn  colouring  constitutes  the  chief 
charm  of  the  Parrotia. 

Cotoneaster  frigida. — One  often  sees  this  tree 
in  gardens,  and  its  popularity  is  not  surprising. 
It  grows  to  a  height  of  about  10  feet,  is  vigorous, 
and  the  white  flowers  of  spring  are  followed  by 
a  wealth  of  clusters  of  berries  of  a  deep  scarlet 
colour.  The  specimens  sent  are  exceptionally 
fine.     It  is  a  good  tree  for  towns. 

Viburnum  rugosa  Henryii. — This  is  one  of  the 
most  distinct  shrubs  introduced  of  recent  years. 
The  leaves  are  narrow  and  deep  green,  and  the 
crimson  berries  cluster  thickly  on  the  shoots. 

Berberis  WiUonm. — A  charming  shrub  with 
berries  that  remind  one  in  colour  and  shape  of 
those  of  the  Yew.  It  is  one  of  Mr.  Wilson's 
introductions,  and  is  becoming  increasingly 
popular. 

The  Scarlet  Oak  (Querous  coocinea  splendens). 
The  most  important  for  its  colouring  of  the 
North  American  Oaks.  A  good-sized  tree 
imparts  much  beauty  to  the  landscape  at  all 
seasons,  and  especially  in  autumn,  when  the 
large,  deeply  cut  leaves  are  warm  crimson  in 
colour  with  a  shade  of  brown  in  it. 

These  are  a  few  of  the  best  kinds  sent,  but 
there  were  also  many  others.  Cercidiphyllum 
jdponicum,  Vaceinium  pennsylvanicum,  V. 
stamineum.  Maples,  such  as  Acer  palmatum 
atropurpureum,  A.  p.  septemlobum  elegans,  A. 
rubrum,  A.  japonioum  laciniatum,  A.  lineari- 
lobum,  A.  oolchicum  rubrum  and  A.  tataricum 
Ginnala,  Spiraea  Fortunei  macrophyllum,  S. 
prunifolium,  Cotoneaster  Franchetii,  Viburnum 
nudum,  Quercus  palustris,  Q.  macrophylla 
Albertii,  Berberis  Thunbergii,  Andromeda 
arborea  {glorious  colour).  Cotoneaster  applanu- 
tum  (crimson  berries),  C  horizontalis  (oranga 
berries),  C.  microphylla,  C.  Simonsii,  Skimmia 
japonica,  Prunus  Pissardii  and  the  purple  Almond 
lAmygdalus  duleis  purpurea). 


Seedling  Chrysanthemums  from  Berkshire. 

Mr.  J.  Linden,  Springe,  North  Stock,  Walling- 
ford,  sends  us  flowers  of  six  seedling  Chrysan- 
themums, which  are  very  pretty  and  graceful  and 
which  should  be  most  useful  for  decoration  at 
this  time  of  year.  Although  no  advance  on 
named  varieties  already  in  commerce,  these 
seedlings  possess  a  beauty  of  their  own  and 
doubtless  are  of  vigorous  growth. 


BOOKS. 


A    new  book  on   Conifers.*— The 

secund  and  final  volume  of  Mr.  Clinton  Baker's 
work  on  conifers  has  recently  been  published. 
The  title  of  the  work  indicates  its  chief  purpose, 
which  is  to  present  a  life-size  picture  of  a  bhoot 
and  cone  of  all  the  larger  hardy  conifers.  In  the 
present  volume  the  most  important  genera  dealt 
with  are  Abies,  Pieea,  Larix,  Sequoia,  Araucaria, 
Thuya  and  Cupressus.  But  several  monotypic 
genera  are  also  described  and  illustrated,  such  as 
Pseudolarix,  Sciadopitys,  Cunninghamia  and 
Cryptomeria.  Of  every  species  a  portrait,  nearly 
always  an  admirable  one,  is  given.  In  the  case 
of  the  Abies,  many  species  have  two  plates 
devoted  to  them,  one  showing  the  cone  with  the 
characteristic  foliage  that  belongs  to  fertile 
shoots,  the  other  illustrating  the  ordinary  leafy 
or  infertile  shoot  by  means  of  two  twigs,  one  of 
which  displays  the  upper  surface,  the  other  the 
lower  one.  Each  species  is  described  clearly  and 
concisely,  and  interesting  and  useful  information 
regarding  the  native  country,  habitats,  economic 
value,  &c. ,  is  given.  Ha\ing  had  occasion  to 
use  both  Volumes  of  "  Illustrations  of  Conifers  " 


"Illustrations    of   Conifers,"    by    H.  Clinton    Baker, 
Vol.  II.    (Privately  priutetl.J 


somewhat  frequently,  we  can  testify  to  their 
remarkable  accuracy  and  worth.  To  all  who  are 
concerned  with  this  group  of  trees,  and  especially 
to  those  who  are  desirous  of  having  their 
specimens  correctly  named,  we  can  strongly 
recommend  this  work.  Mr.  Clinton  Baker 
possesses  in  his  own  grounds  at  Bayfordbury 
one  of  the  finest  collections  of  conifers  in  the 
South  of  England.  This  collection  has  provided 
the  greater  part  of  the  material  for  illustrating 
his  work,  but  to  render  it  as  complete  as 
possible  the  author  has  had  recourse,  not  only  to 
collections  in  the  British  Isles — such  as  those  at 
Kew,  Dropmore,  and  several  others  in  the  three 
kingdoms — but  he  has  obtained  and  publishes 
photographs  of  native  specimens  from  Japan  and 
North  America.  Some  of  the  plates  illustrate 
species  for  the  first  time  in  this  country.  We 
are  glad  to  be  able  to  congratulate  the  author  on 
the  successful  completion  of  an  arduous  and  not 
uncostly  undertaking,  but  one  that  has  evidently 
been  a  labour  of  love. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS- 


RULES   FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  a.nd  Answers,— The  Editor  tnteiids 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  deaire 
assUtance,  iw  matter  ivhat  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  ami  ivith  that  object  will  m<ike  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  ivritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  oiibj,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  op  The 
Garden,  20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The. ,  iiamo  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  inay  desire  to  he  used  m  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Plants  ♦op    herbaceous     border 

{E.  H.  B). — You  might  along  the  back  line  plant 
the  taller  Sunflowers,  as  Helianthus  mulciflorua 
maximus,  H.  m.  fl. -pi  .  H.  Misa  Mellish,  and 
some  of  the  Larkspurs  in  distinct  shades  of 
colour  ;  in  a  second  row  such  plants  as  Cimici- 
luga  simplex,  Anchusa  italica  Dropmore  vairiety, 
Rudbeckia  Autumn  Glory,  Galega  Hartlandii, 
Ast-T  Novse-Angliie  Lil  Fardell,  A.  N.-A.  rubia, 
A.  N.-A.  pulohellus,  A.  Wm.  Marshall  and  A. 
cordifolius  Ideal  ;  in  a  third  row  the  pure  while 
Phl"X  Mrs.  Jenkins,  Iris  aurea.  Phlox  Flambeau, 
P.  Etna,  Delphinium  Belladonna,  Cheloue  bar- 
bati,  Soabiosa  caucasiea,  S.  <'.  alba,  Lilium 
caudidum,  L.  testaeeum,  L.  Hansonii  and  L. 
chalcedonicum  ;  while,  again,  in  front  of  these 
such  things  as  single  and  double  Pyrethrums, 
Irises  of  the  Flag  section,  and  particularly  such  as 
Mrs.  Darwin,  Ohelles,  Dr.  Bernioe,  Gracchus, 
i^laeen  of  May,  Mme.  Chereau,  Darius  and  aurea  ; 
in  addition.  Aster  Amelias,  A.  Uevigatu",  A. 
acris,  Achillea  alpina  and  the  like,  white  PinUs, 
Megaseas  and  other  things  appearing  near  thu 
margin.  We  would  suggest  that  you  plant  iu 
groups,  employing,  say,  three  or  five  plants  of 
each  to  give  the  desired  effect.  Carnations, 
Columbines  and  Daffodils  may  also  be  planted  if 
desired. 

Gunnepa.  manicata  iTItcmais  narr'tKnn) — As  the 
esttii.ple  has  only  heeu  planted  two  yeaia  and  is,  as  jou 
say,  a  strong,  healthy  plant,  we  do  not  see  that  there  is 
much  wrong.  It  may  be,  o(  course,  that  the  cruwna  vary, 
and  frequently  this  is  so  in  the  case  of  seedling  pJanis. 
We  could  only  form  a  proper  estimate  of  its  ptiigiesa  l.y 
knowing  the  hize  of  the  plant  now  and  also  at  planting- 
time,  and  you  say  nothing  of  the  size  of  the  leavea  or  then- 
spread  or  even  of  the  position  occupied  by  the  plant.  In 
any  case,  no  harm  would  bo  done  to  it  by  eai  ly  diacnurflging 
tlie  flowering  spike,  so  that  thn  whole  enfj^^.ea  e»f  the 
plant  niay  go  to  leaf-fornialiun.  If  you  care  to  ctntl  fuller 
particulars  of  how  and  where  the  specimtu  is  planted  .-.r.d 
the  size  and  number  of  its  larger  leaves,  we  may  pussilily 
be  able  to  assist  yuu  IiirtUer. 


572 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  20,1909 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 
AVhen  to  prune  Cydonlas  {lAwaa).— 
You  may  prune  your  Cydonia  (Pyrui)  jiponioa 
at  ODoe  80  far  as  the  very  strong,  rampant 
growths  are  concerned,  but  leave  any  wood 
which  looks  as  if  it  bears  flower-buds  until  spring. 
After  the  flowers  are  over  spur  it  well  back  to 
the  wall  ;  then  go  over  it  in  June  and  again 
in  August  and  cut  back  the  young  wood  as  you 
would  with  fruit  trees,  to  form  spurs.  You  will 
in  time  get  it  to  form  short,  stubby  growths,  on 
which  flowers  will  appear  in  profusion.  Summer 
pruning  will,  however,  have  to  be  persisted  in 
each  year.  iShould  strong  branches  continue  to 
be  formed,  lift  a  portion  of  your  path,  find  a 
few  of  the  strongest  roots  and  cut  them  through. 
This  ought  to  cheek  undue  growth. 

Edsins  foP  drive  (^(urious).— There  are  three 
things  whk-ti  you  might  try  as  an  edging  for  your  drive 
other  than  the  subjects  you  have  already  tried.  They  are 
Hypericum  calycinum,  Vinja  minor  and  Euonymua 
europreus.  The  former  would  most  likely  give  the  greatest 
satisfaction  if  it  is  not  too  coarse-growing  for  you.  It 
attains  a  height  of  from  9  inches  to  12  inches,  but  may  be 
cut  to  the  ground  each  spring.  The  Vinca  keeps  dwarfer, 
but  rambles  about  rather  more.  The  Euonymus  may  be 
clipped  in  the  same  way  as  Box,  and  can  be  kept  quite 
d  -varf  or  may  be  allowed  to  form  a  hedge  1  foot  high. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Planting  a  Raspbsppy  bed  (Catalpa).^You 
may  plant  your  uew  Raspberry  bad  at  once,  or  any  time 
before  the  end  of  February  when  the  weather  is  open. 
Providing  you  do  the  work  at  once  and  obtain  good, 
strong,  well-rooted  canes,  it  is  quite  possible  to  obtain  a 
medium  crop  of  fruit  next  year.  In  the  event,  however, 
t>f  planting  being  delayed  until  spring,  or  should  the  canes 
be  wt-ab,  you  would  do  well  to  cut  them  down  to  the 
ground  in  March  and  forego  what  few  fruits  they  would 
be  likely  to  produce.  By  doing  this  very  much  stronger 
canes  will  be  formed  for  the  ensuing  year  than  if  the  old 
ones  were  allowed  to  fruit.  The  bed  will  be  greatly 
assisted  if  you  give  it  a  top-dressing  of  well-rotted  manure 
next  May. 

CateppUlap3  eating:  Sppouts  and  Savoys 
(^frs.  By  Ealing). —We  liave  no  duubt  that  it  is  ihe 
caterpillar  of  the  large  white  cabbage  butterfly  which  is 
devouring  the  winter  greens  of  our  correspondent.  It  is  a 
moat  difficult  pest  to  deal  with,  especially  when  it  assumes 
sT  formidable  an  aspect  as  to  threaten  the  total  destruc- 
tion of  the  Sprouts  and  Savoys,  as  in  thi3  case.  There  is 
no  known  remedy  so  effective  as  hand  picking,  or,  when 
they  are  very  thick  on  the  plants,  of  brushing  them  off 
into  a  vessel  of  some  sort  and  burning  them.  This  may 
appear  a  tedious  business,  bat  it  is  wonderful  how  great  a 
riddance  can  be  effected  in  this  way  by  a  determined 
man  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  or  even  a  day  if  this 
is  found  necessary.  Regarding  the  application  of 
remedies,  one  is  resti  icted  in  this  matter  by  reison  of  the 
fact  that  no  poisonous  compound  can  be  applied  as  a 
dressing  to  any  vegetables  which  are  intended  for  con- 
sumption. The  best  mixture  to  apply  is  quicklime,  soot 
and  salt  in  the  folio wini;  proportions,  mixing  them 
thoroughly  well  together  before  applying  to  the  plants  : 
One  peck  of  quicklime,  half  a  peck  of  soot  and  half  a  pint 
of  salt. 

Planting  two  op  thpee  aopes  of  bush 
Apple  tPees on  Papadise  stocK{M"ch  OhUgtii). 
We  presume  you  are  going  iu  for  growing  early  varieties, 
as  all  those  you  mention  ripen  early.  No  doubt  Worcester 
Pearmain  is  one  of  the  best,  if  not  the  best,  paying  early 
Apple  to  grow,  and  you  would  be  well  advised  to  plant 
more  of  1  his  than  of  the  others  you  mention.  We  think 
you  ought  also  to  add  James  Grieve  and  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin.  If  you  are  looking  for  the  best  and  most 
immediate  result  and  lasting  effect,  you  would  do  well  to 
manure  the  land  with  farmyard  manure  at  the  rate  of  at 
least  llfteen  tons  to  the  acre  and  trench  the  land  ■!  feet 
deep  all  over.  By  doing  this  you  could  grow  a  crop  of 
early  Potatoes  between  the  trees  for  two  or  three  years, 
taking  care  not  to  crop  within  at  least  4  f-et  of  the 
trees.  The  other  plan  would  be  to  dig  holes  6  feet  across 
and  2  feer.  deep,  breaking  up  the  bottom  of  the  hole  after 
this.  Befure  putling  the  soil  back  again  in  the  hole  ready 
for  planting  the  trees,  take  the  poorest  bottom  soil 
away  and  add  aa  much  as  will  make  this  good  of  rich, 
well-rotted  manure  and  place  back  in  the  holes,  when 
they  will  be  ready  to  receive  the  trees  The  top  roots  of 
the  trees  when  planted  should  be  within  5  inches  of  the 
top  of  the  ground.  It  is  difficult  to  say  what  the  cost  of 
planting  would  be  per  acre.  The  trees  should  be  planted 
9  feet  apart  each  way— that  is  to  say,  9  feet  between 
the  rowd  of  trees  and  9  feet  between  tree  and  tree  in 
the  row.  At  this  distance  apart  it  would  take  537  trees 
to  plant  an  acre.  By  buying  them  in  large  quantities 
you  would  probably  be  able  to  secure  three  year  old 
bush  trees  on  the  Paradise  stock  at  from  Is.  to  Is.  Oi.  each. 
We  strongly  adviee  you  not  to  buy  them  at  auction 
sales,  where  the  trees  and  their  roots  are  often  exposed 
for  a  long  time,  with  the  consequent  deterioration  of  their 
roots  and  branches.  Moreover,  you  can  never  rely  on 
them  being  true  to  name,  and  you  have  no  remedy  if  they 
are  not.  As  a  rule,  it  takes  a  man  rather  more  than  a 
fortu'ght  to  trench  friable  and  rather  light  land  per  acre, 
so  you  could  cilculate  what  approximately  the  cost  per 


acre  to  you  would  be  of  planting  your  land,  adding  the 
cost  of  the  manure.  The  greatest  enemy  of  the  Apple  is 
the  American  blight.  You  should  stipulate  in  buying  that 
your  trees  are  free  from  this. 

Apples  fop  heavy  soil  (L.  R.  /*.).— The  best  three 
varieties  of  Apple  to  ripen  in  September,  we  think,  are 
the  following :  Lady  Sudeley,  Worcester  Pearmain  and 
James  Grieve.  The  best  material  you  can  use  for  making 
such  soil  lighter  Isold  mortar  rubble  and  road  scrapin-is. 
The  ground  should  be  trenched  ^V  feet  deep  and  plenty  of 
these  materials  added,  aa  well  as  a  fair  quantity  of  half- 
rotten  manure. 

Raspbeppies  fpultingr  in  autumn  fop 
sevepal  yeaps  (DHdicelli— it  is  not  an  unusual  thing 
for  Raspberries  to  occasionally  bear  as  much  fruit  in  the 
autumn  on  the  current  year's  growth  as  they  bear  the 
following  year  on  the  same  cines.  But  this  abnormal 
condition  of  things  is  the  exception,  and  is  due  to  peculiar 
weather  conditions  prevailing  at  that  season.  Seeing  that 
your  canes  have  fruited  in  the  autumn  in  greater  quantity 
than  iu  summer  for  several  years,  one  is  almost  forced  to 
conclude  that  yours  must  be  an  autumn-bearing  sort,  in 
which  case  it  would  be  difficult,  even  if  possible,  to  change 
ita  character.  We  suggest  as  an  experiment  that  you  cut 
bick  a  few  of  next  year's  young  shoots,  after  they  have 
made  a  growth  of  from  6  inches  to  8  inches,  to  two  buds  of 
their  base.  They  will  soon  break  into  growth  again,  and 
if  there  is  more  than  one  growth,  rub  off  the  others  so  that 
only  one  cane  may  grow.  This  later  growth  of  the  cane, 
we  think,  may  prevent  its  fruiting  the  same  year.  Any- 
way, we  advise  you  to  try  a  few  canes  only  and  note  the 
result  for  future  guidance.  If  this  does  not  answer  the 
purpose,  the  best  thing  you  can  do  will  be  to  plant  another 
bed  of  the  variety  Superlative.  FiUow  the  suckers  down 
to  the  roots  and  cut  them  off.  If  you  wish  to  increase  your 
stock,  these  will  make  use'ul  plants  by  next  autumn. 

Lawns  Invaded  by  tenacious  w^eeds  fpom 
fields  and  meadows  (.S-A-^'p)  -The  best  way  of 
ridding  lawns  of  coarse  weeds  is  to  dig  them  up  and  pick 
up  the  roots  as  digging  goes  on,  burn  them,  and  then  sow 
the  ground  with  best  grass  seed  at  the  end  of  March  or 
relay  with  good  turves  in  open  weather  during  winter. 
Infortunately,  in  your  case  this  would  not  be  etticacious. 
on  account  of  the  nearness  of  your  lawn  to  fields  and 
meadows,  from  which  seeds  of  noxious  weeds  are  blown  on 
to  the  lawn.  There  is  a  mixture  extensively  and  success- 
fully used  in  England  for  the  destruction  of  Daisies  and 
such  weeds  as  you  enclose  on  lawns.  It  is  named  "  Liwn 
Sand,  for  the  destruction  of  weeds  on  lawns."  It  may  be 
obtained  from  any  seed  merchant  advertising  with  us, 
accompanied  with  full  instructions  how  to  use.  A  good 
book  on  lawns  la  published  by  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons, 
seed  merchants,  Reading,  England.  It  is  the  most  com- 
plete and  reliable  work  on  the  subject  we  know  of.  We 
regret  to  say  that  we  do  not  know  where  to  obtain  a 
French  book  dealing  with  the  subject,  but  probably 
Vilmorin,  of  the  great  seed  establishment  in  Paris,  would 
supply  one.  We  are  strongly  in  favour  of  rolling  lawns  on 
all  favourable  occasions  in  winter.  It  is  this  rolling  and 
attention  in  winter  that  has  made  our  lawns  famous. 

Name  of  pla,nt,Soiifkdown.—The  plant  is  Cassia 
coryinbjsa. 

Names  of  fPUit.  —  F.  C.  —  1,  Downton  Pippin; 
•2.  Blanders ;  3,  Fearu'a  Pippin ;  4,  W«llington  ;  .S, 
Northern  Greening:  6,  Pennington's  Seedling;  7,  Wealthy; 
S.  Pickering'a  Seedling;  9,  Brandy  Apple;   11,  Beauty  of 

Hants. L.  W.  M.,  Bri.^tnl  — i,  Nelson's  Codliu  ;  2,  Court 

Pandu  Plat ;  -i,  "Stamford  Pippin  ;  4,  Belle  Julie  ;  .'»,  Beurrt- 

Clairgeau;    6,    Josephine    de    Maliues. .-1.    P.    F.—:i, 

Northern  Greening  ;  4,  Beurre  Clairgeau  ;  11,  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin  ;  2;;,  Blenheim  Orange  ;  24,  Fearn'a  Pippin.— T.  C. 
— ^Apples :  1,  Bess  Pool ;  2,  Alfriston  ;  3,  Warnei's  King  ; 
4,    Five    Crown    Pippin ;     6.    Basa    Pool  ;     6,    Northern 

Gre'^ning. Pearson,    Putneu.  —  Pear    Conferenc**. 

n.  <r.  C.  C— 1,  Blenheim  Orange;   2    Cobhara. South- 

(i'lint. — 1,  Rotten  when  received;  2,  Doyenoti  d'Alenvon; 
3,  Easter  Beurre;  4,  Beun^d'Jonghe;  5, General Toileoen; 
0.   Beurr6    Diel  ;    7,   Gansel's    Bergamot ;     8,   Kedleston 

Pippin  ;  0,  Margil. If.  de  H  Birch.—  6.  Due  de  Nemours  ; 

21,  Grenadier;  2s  and  56,  look  like  very  small  specimens  of 
Blenheim  Orange;  42,  Marie  Benoist;  4'.»,  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin.  The  samples  are  so  wretchedly  small,  misshapen 
and  badly  grown  tbat  It  is  impossible  to  name  them  all 
correctly.  Please  send  samples  next  year  (a  few  at  a  time) 
when  belter  grown,  and  we  will  name  them  aa  far  as 
possible  for  you  with  pleasure. 


SOCIETIES. 

BOURNEMOt'TQ    HORTICULTrRAL    SOCIETY'S 
CHRYSANTHEMUM    SHOW. 

Altuouoh  the  adverse  season  has  been  mainly  responsible 
for  the  falling  off  in  the  various  classes  devoted  to  cut 
blooms  of  Chrysanthemums,  the  new  features  introduced 
filled  the  gap,  slight  though  it  was,  in  a  remarkable  way, 
and  satisfied  the  orti'iials  and  the  public  that  the  twenty- 
third  exhibition,  held  on  the  2ad  and  3rd  Inst.,  was  a 
decided  success.  The  Winter  Gardens  Pavilion,  in  which 
the  exhibits  were  staged,  was  packed  with  appreciative 
visitors  on  both  days.  The  past  season  being  a  late  one, 
many  Chrysanthemums  were  not  fully  developed,  and, 
consequently,  were  not  entered.  Fruit  was  staged  well 
and  in  large  numbers,  the  competition  In  the  Grape, 
Apple  and  Pear  classes  being  exceedingly  keen.  Table 
decorations,  always  a  lovely  feature  at  this  annual  show, 
compelled  much  appreciative  comment  this  year,  and  the 
non-competitive  exhibits  were  of  a  very  high  quality  and 
m  ide  a  big  display. 


Cut  Blooms. 

The  principal  class  was  for  thirty-aix  cut  blooms, 
not  more  than  two  of  any  one  variety.  First  hononrs 
went  to  Mr.  Thomas  Stevenson,  gardener  to  E.  G. 
Mocatta,  Ejq.,  Addlestone,  Surrey,  who  staged  a 
magnificent  lot  of  flowers,  rich  in  colour  and  heavy  and 
fresh.  The  blooms  were  as  follows  :  Lady  Talbot  (two), 
Henry  Perkins,  F.  S.  Vallis  (two),  Valerie  Greenham,  Mrs. 
Charles  Penford,  Sir  Frank  Crisp  (two),  Mrs.  Norman 
Davis,  Marquia  of  Northampton,  Reginald  Vallis  (two). 
Master  James  (two),  F.  W.  Lever,  Mrs.  W.  Knox,  Mrs. 
A.  T.  Miller  (two),  Algernon  Davis,  G.  J.  Bruzand,  Mme. 
de  la  Crouce  (two),  James  Lock  (two),  Charles  H.  Totty, 
Walter  Jinks,  Mias  L.  K.  Thorne,  Duchess  of  Sutherland 
(two),  J.  H.  Silsbury,  Mrs.  F.  C.  Stoop,  Leslie  Morrison, 
and  Mme.  G.  Rivol.  Mr.  Usher,  gardener  to  Sir  Randolf 
Baker,  Bart.,  Ranatone  House,  Blandford,  was  a  close 
second.  His  blooms  were  fresh  and  very  highly  coloured, 
Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  Rose  Pockett,  President  Viger,  Lady 
Talbot,  Splendour,  Mrs.  Laxton  and  W.  Beale  oeing  the 
most  noteworthy  varieties. 

For  nine  vases  of  Japanese  cut  blooms,  distinct,  three 
blooms  of  each  variety,  stems  not  leas  than  IS  inches  in 
length,  Mr.  Slark,  gardener  to  G.  J.  Fenwick,  Esq.,  was 
the  only  exhibitor,  but  lij  staged  grand  blooms  and  won 
the  silver  challenge  cup  presented  by  Alderman  J.  Elmes 
Beale.  Incurved  blooms  were  good,  but  not  very 
numerous.  Mr.  Usher  led  in  the  class  for  twelve  in  not 
less  than  eight  varieties. 

There  waa  more  spirited  competition  in  the  class  for 
twelve  Japanese  cut  blooms,  shown  on  boards.  Mr.  Lloyd, 
giidener  to  Major  Wyndham  Pain,  scored,  followed  by 
Mr.  G.  Cox,  gardener  to  Dr.  A.  J.  Brodie,  for  second  place, 
and  Mr   Sprackliog,  !,'ardener  to  Dr.  Lys,  for  third. 

A  silver  cliallenge  cup,  presented  by  Sirs.  Telfer  for  two 
vasea  of  Japanese  blooms  on  long  stems,  distinct,  nine 
bloom',  one  variety  in  each  vase,  was  won  by  Mr, 
Tompkins,  gardener  to  the  Dowager  Lady  Miller. 

Mr.  Barge,  gardener  to  the  Rev.  C.  H.  Burrows,  was 
the  successful  exhibitor  of  six  vases  of  Japanese  blooms  in 
six  distinct  varieties,  three  blooms  of  one  variety  in  each 
vase. 

Groups. 

The  Mavor  of  Bournemouth  off  ere  1  a  silver  challenge 
trophy  as  first  prize,  with  money  priz^  added  by  the  society, 
for  a  group  of  Chrysanthemums  arranged  in  a  space  of 
oO  square  feet,  and  Mr.  Tompkins  was  the  winner.  The 
principal  group  was  one  of  miscellaneous  plants  in  a  space 
12  feet  by  9  feet,  quality,  vaiiety  and  geutril  effect  to  bs 
the  leading  features.  It  was  in  this  class  that  a  uew 
depart'ite  was  made,  as  formerly  only  Chrysanthemums 
were  allowed.  In  addition  to  a  handiome  money  prize  a 
silver  challenge  cup  was  presented  bv  the  chairman  of  the 
committee,  .\Ir.  G.  H.  Rtlls,  J.P.  Messrs.  G.  Watts  and 
Sons,  Palace  Nurserie:-,  Bournemouth,  were  the  winners 
with  an  imposing  arrangement.  Mr.  F.  W.  Welch,  Bourne- 
mouth, taking  second  honours  *ith  a  very  pretty  group. 

Mr.  Lloyd  was  tlrst  prizewinner  in  tho  class  for  six  table 
plants.  Messrs.  Slark  and  Sprackling  were  first  In  the 
classes  for  three  specimens  ami  one  specimen  Chrysanthe- 
mum respectively.  Mr.  Llojd  also  won  chief  honours 
for  twelve  Zonal  Pelargonium-,  and  Mr.  Tompkins  was 
successful  with  six  grand  Salvia  plants. 

Miss  Tavlor,  Salisbury,  had  a  lovely  table  decoration, 
and  Mr.  WilN.  fi  )rist,  Southampton,  a  charming  shower 
bouquet.  Mr.  R.  Jeffery  scored  in  both  classes  for  shoulder 
sprays  and  button-hole  bouquets. 
Fruit 
made  a  very  fine  display.  In  the  open  class  for  three 
bunches  of  Grapes,  distinct  varieties,  Mr.  W.  D.  Pope, 
gardener  to  L.  G  Pike,  Esq  ,  Warehara,  was  placed  first 
with  grand  bunches,  closely  followed  by  Mr.  G,  Garner, 
Bournemouth,  for  second  place,  and  Mr.  Usher  for  third. 
In  the  open  classes  for  two  bunches  of  black  Grapes,  Mr. 
C  11.  Curtis,  Blandford,  won  with  well-flnished  bunches 
of  Appley  Towers,  and  Mr.  G.  Garner  came  second  with 
large,  well-finished  bunches  of  Alicante.  Mr.  C.  Barrett 
being  a  good  third  with  Gros  Colmar.  Mr.  Pope  had  two 
magnificent  bunches  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria  in  the  open 
class  for  white  Grapes,  and  he  a'ao  won  in  the  local 
division  with  the  same  vaiiety.  Four  dishes  of  kitchen 
Apples  were  called  for  in  one  class,  and  the  competition 
was  very  keen.  Mr.  Thiinns  Beesley,  gardener  to  Earl 
Nelson,  was  first,  and  Mr.  C.  S.  Wady  was  similarly  placed 
for  four  dishes  of  dessert  Apples,  distinct.  Mr.  Usher  was 
chief  prizewinner  in  the  Pear  classes. 
Trade  Exhibits 
and  others  also,  not  for  competition,  made  a  big  display. 
Gold  medals  were  awarded  to  Messrs.  Cypher,  (or  Orchids ; 
Mr.  R.  Chamberlain,  for  flortl  designs;  Messi-s.  D.Stewart 
and  Son?.  Wimborue.  for  Applea  and  Peara ;  and  Mr. 
Usher,  for  a  very  extensive  cullection  of  vegetables.  Silver 
medals  were  awarded  to  the  chairman  of  the  committee, 
for  a  lovely  group  of  Orchids ;  Messrs.  Cutbush  and  Sous, 
for  Carnations ;  and  Messrs.  Toogood  and  Sons,  for 
vegetables.  Mr.  T.  K  Ingram.  Parkstone,  Dorset ;  Messrs. 
Cooling  and  Sons,  Bath;  Mr.  Maurice  Prichard,  Hiverslea 
Nurseries,  Christchurch,  and  several  other  local  firms  put 
up  very  charming  groupd  of  plants  and  collections  of  fruit. 

UNITED  HORTICULTURAL  BENEFIT  AND 
PROVIDENT  SOCIETY. 
The  monthly  committee  meeting  of  this  society  was  held 
at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  West- 
minster, on  November  8.  Mr.  Charles  H.  Curtis  presided. 
Six  uew  members  were  elected.  The  death  of  Mr.  Nathan 
Cole  was  announced,  and  the  sum  standing  to  his  credit 
in  the  society's  books,  viz  ,  £14  143.  6d  .  was  granted  to 
bis  nominee.  Mr.  Cole  was  one  of  the  founders  of  the 
society  and  had  been  on  the  Benevolent  Fund  eleven  yeara. 
The  amou-it  of  sick  pay  for  the  past  mouth  was  liZ'i  159. 


Sjtpplenieiit  to   THE  GARDEN,  November  20th,  1909, 


PRIMULA    VISCOSA 

(Mr.  J     H.  WILSON). 


Hudson  &  Kcdim,  Ltd.,  J'rinicn,  London,  S.B. 


GARDEN. 


-z^^- 


"^^k 


No.  1984.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


November  27,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


The  Most  Beautiful 
cle5iatises      ..    ..    573 

Notes  of  thb  Week 
i'orthcoming  events      074 

C  5KBB8P0IIDBN0E 

Mildew-prool  Roses      574 

A  gold  medal  for  new 
Roses :  A  sugges- 
tion      574 

Lilies  of  the  Valley 
fortable  decoration    575 

Gardening  for  profit      576 
Kitchen  Garden 

Cabbaee  Lettuces  in 
Scotland 675 

Coarse  Carrots  . .     . .    575 

GSEENHOnSE 

An  Australian  Sun- 
dew   576 

Flower  garden 

Root  propagation  of 
hardy  herbaceous 
perennials      . .     . .     576 

Perpetual  -  flowering 
Carnations  for 
summer  bedding  . .    577 

The  Moccasin  Flower    677 
Trees  ahd  Shrubs 

Early  flowering 
Spirieas 57S 


578 


Fruit  Garden 
Fruit  notes 

ROSE  Gardeh 
Notes     on    newer 

Roses. — X 579 

Rose  Lady  Gay  in  a 

Highgate  garden  . .    579 
Hybrid     Tea    Rose 

Betty       679 

Gardenihq  for  Beoinners 
Garden  work  week  by 

week        5S0 

How   and    when    to 

repot  an  Orchid    . .     580 
Hints  on   root-prun- 
ing fruit  trees      . .    581 
The  Town  Garden  ..    581 

GARDENlna  OF  THE  WEEK 

For    the  South    and 

South  Miaiandj    . .  5S2 

For  the   North   and 

North  Midlands  . .  582 

Ahswers    to    Corbe- 

8P0NDBHTS 

Flower  garden  . ,     . .  582 

Trees  and  shrubs     . .  683 

Fruit  garden     . .     . .  583 

MiacellaneouB  ..     ..  583 


Societies 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Lilies  of  the  Valley  used  for  table  decoration     . .     . .  575 

One  of  the  Austialian  Sundews  (Drosera  binata)       . .  670 

A  cluster  of  the  Moccasin  Flower 577 

A  bed  of  Perpetual-flowering  Carnations      577 

One  of  the  best  early  flowering  Spirteas  (S.  arguta)  . .  67S 

Rose  Lady  Gay  in  a  North  London  garden 679 

How  and  when  to  repot  an  Orchid 580,  581 


BDITORIAL    NOTIOBS. 

jgoerv  department  rf  horticuUf.re  is  represented  tn  THE 
Garden,  and  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
reiatinn  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
compet-'nt  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  malce 
ihr  "  Anifwers  to  Correspcndents "  column  a  cmtspicuous 
f'lrturf,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
vtOX  Icindiy  (live  enquirers  the  benefit  ol  their  assistance- 
All  communications  must  be  written  clearly  on  ems  side 
onLv  0/  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THU 
Gardbn,  accompanied  by  Tiame  and  address  a)  the  sender. 


The  Bditor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
riut  he  mil  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  hmoever,  will  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
or  mclosed,  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
e&tUributions.  

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Bditor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
th:  actuai  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  wiU  be 
treated  with.  

11^  Editor  mil  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  rwt  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THS  GARDEN 
viU  alone-  be  recognised  as  acceptaiux. 


Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Coven!  Garden,  W.C, 


THE     MOST     BEAUTIFUL 
CLEMATISES. 

ONE  of  the  most  beautiful  families  of 
k  shrubby  and  climbing  plants  is  the 
I  Clematis.  Those  who  have  only  a 
'  slight  acquaintance  with  flowers 
know  the  Traveller's  Joy  (Clematis 
Vitalba),  the  misty  seed-pods  which  give  a  weird 
effect  to  the  hedgerow  in  autumn  and  winter. 
It  rambles  over  everything  within  its  reach, 
mingling  its  silvery  colour  with  the  dense  glossy 
green  of  the  Ivy.  It  is  not  of  the  wild  Clematis 
one  wishes  to  write,  but  the  following  question 
has  suggested  notes  upon  this  beautiful  group  of 
flowers  :  "  Would  you  be  so  kind  as  to  give  me 
the  names  of  what  you  consider  to  be  the  best 
hardy,  free-flowering  Clematises  ;  colour,  deep 
blue,  mauve,  lavender,  and  white,  none  with 
bars  or  bands  upon  them  ?  They  are  for  planting 
against  a  wall,  but  in  rather  an  exposed  position, 
so  that  I  wish  Uiem  to  be  hardy  and  to  be  at 
their  best  during  June  and  July. — J.  M." 

In  reply  to  this  the  following  lists  have  been 
carefully  compiled.  Species — that  is,  wild  kinds — 
are  enumerated  and  also  the  varieties,  with  a 
note  as  to  the  time  they  flower  and  the  colouring. 
All  thrive  best  in  a  cool  soil,  such  as  loam  with 
some  lime  in  it,  and  in  the  case  of  Clematis 
.Jackmanii,  C.  lanuginosa  and  their  varieties  the 
bases  of  the  plants  should  be  in  such  a  position 
that  the  full  rays  of  the  sun  do  not  strike  directly 
upon  them  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day. 
The  Species  of  Clematis. 
The  following  are  a  few  of  the  more  beautiful 
of  the  species  or  wild  types  :  C.  alpina,  which 
flowers  in  April  and  May,  is  a  Clematis  from 
Northern  P^urope,  and  bears  lilac  or  mauve 
blooms  in  abundance ;  there  are  varieties  with 
white  and  pink  flowers  respectively.  C.  oampani- 
flora,  a  Portuguese  Clematis,  with  white,  mauve- 
tinted  flowers  barely  1  inch  across,  is  of  strong 
growth  and  suitable  for  the  wild  garden  ;  the 
flowering  period  is  from  July  onwards.  C.  Flam- 
mula  is  well  known  ;  its  fragrant  white  flowers, 
which  appear  in  August,  are  familiar.  The 
charming  variety  rubro-marginata  has  flowers 
margined  with  red.  C.  florida,  a  native  of  Japan, 
is  the  parent  of  one  of  the  types  of  Clematis 
which  give  beauty  to  the  English  garden  ;  these 
bloom  in  May  and  .June  and  must  not  be  pruned 
in  spring.  C.  lanuginosa  is  the  parent  of  many 
of  the  largest-flowered  garden  varieties  which 
bloom  from  .July  onwards ;  all  the  varieties  of 
this  type  require  to  be  pruned  fairly  hard  in 
February.  C.  montana  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful climbers  we  possess.  Its  glistening  white 
flowers  cover  the  leaves  with  their  beauty 
during  May   and  June.      A  lovely  form   of  it 


is  called  rubens,  which  has  reddish  flowers. 
C.  orientalis  is  easily  recognised  by  its  small 
yellow  flowers,  which  appear  in  August ;  it  is, 
however,  less  beautiful  than  the  variety  called 
tangutica,  which  has  larger  flowers  of  richer 
colour,  and  these  appear  from  .July  onwards. 
C.  patens  is  another  Clematis  from  which  many 
garden  varieties  have  been  obtained.  The  forms 
of  this  have  white  or  blue  flowers  in  June ;  the 
species  is  found  both  in  China  and  Japan. 
C.  Viticella  produces  many  garden  varieties, 
while  it  is  one  of  the  parents  of  the  well-known 
C.  Jackmanii.  The  growth  is  strong  and  the 
purple  flowers  appear  in  profusion. 

Selection  of  Varieties. 

G.  florida  Varieties. — These  all  flower  in  May 
and  June  from  buds  on  the  wood  matured  the 
previous  year.  Belle  of  Woking,  silver  grey, 
double  ;  Comete,  white,  with  mauve  stamens ; 
Countess  of  Lovelace,  double,  mauve ;  Duchess 
of  Edinburgh,  white,  double ;  Elaine,  blue, 
double  ;  John  Gould  Veitch,  lavender,  double  ; 
Lucy  Lemoine,  white,  double ;  Proteus,  rose 
purple ;  Undine,  blue,  double. 

C.  patens  Varieties. — These  varieties,  like  the 
foregoing,  blossom  from  wood  matured  the 
previous  year ;  consequently,  no  pruning  must 
be  done  in  spring.  Albertine,  white,  semi- 
double  ;  Albert  Victor,  deep  lavender,  with  pale 
bars  ;  Edith  Jackman,  white,  flushed  mauve  ; 
Fair  Rosamond,  blush  white,  with  red  bars  ; 
Lady  Londesborough,  silver  grey,  pale  bars ; 
Lord  Londesborough,  mauve ;  Miss  Bateman, 
white,  red  anthers ;  Mrs.  Quilter,  white ;  Sir 
Garnet  Wolseley,  pale  blue,  with  reddish  bars ; 
Standishii,  lavender  blue ;  The  Queen,  pale 
lavender ;  Uranus,  blue. 

C.  lamtginosa  Varieties.  — These  varieties  com- 
mence to  flower  in  July  and  continue  for  a  couple 
of  months.  The  branches  may  be  pruned  fairly 
hard  in  spring,  say,  to  within  four  or  five  buds  of 
the  base  of  the  previous  year's  wood.  Alba  magna, 
white ;  Beauty  of  Worcester,  bluish  violet ;  Duke 
of  Norfolk,  deep  mauve,  with  broad,  pale  bars  ; 
Fairy  Queen,  pale  flesh,  with  pink  bars ;  Gem, 
deep  lavender ;  Grand  Duchess,  white,  flushed 
rose ;  Lady  Caroline  Neville,  blush  white,  mauve 
bars  ;  La  France,  violet  purple  ;  Lord  Neville, 
blue  ;  La  Gaule,  white,  semi-double  ;  Louis  Van 
Houtte,  violet  purple ;  Mme.  Van  Houtte,  white ; 
Marcel  Moser,  pale  lavender,  with  violet  bars ; 
Princess  of  Wales,  deep  bluish  mauve  ;  Ville  de 
Paris,  white,  tinged  lilac. 

G.  Ja  c-kmanii  Varieties.  — All  the  varieties  belong- 
ing to  this  group  flower  on  young  wood,  and  are 
improved  by  being  cut  back  to  within  a  bud  or 
two  of  the  base  of  the  previous  year's  wood  in 
spring.  They  blossom  from  August  onwards. 
Alexandra,  reddish  violet  ;  Earl  of  Beaconsfield, 


574 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  27,  1909. 


purple ;  Gipsy  Queen,  purple ;  Jackmanii  superba, 
rich  purple  :  Jackmanii  alba,  white  ;  Jackmanii 
rubra,  red  ;  lilacina  floribunda,  grey  lilac  ;  Mme. 
Edouard  Andre,  red  ;  magnifioa,  reddish  purple  ; 
Rubella,  purple :  Snow  White,  white  :  Star  ot 
India,  purple,  red  bars  ;  Ville  de  Lyon,  red. 

C.  Viticdla  Varieties. — All  these  blossom  on 
young  wood  from  July  onwards.  The  branches 
may  be  out  fairly  hard  back  in  spring.  Ascotensis, 
blue ;  kermesiana,  red  ;  La  Nancienne,  violet, 
double  ;  Othella,  purple  ;  rubra  grandiflora,  red ; 
Othello,  white  and  purple.  Clematis  Durandii 
is  a  very  pretty,  bluish-flowered  hybrid  which  is 
said  to  contain  C.  integrifolia  blood.  It  is  of 
pood  constitution  and  blossoms  very  freely  from 
.July  onwards.  There  is  a  paler  variety  called 
pallida.  D. 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK. 


FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

December  1. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Show  of  Colonial  Fruits  and  Bottled  British 
Fruits.  Opening  ceremony  at  1'2.30  p.m.  by  Her 
Royal  Highness  the  Princess  Louise,  Duchess  of 
Argyll,  with  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  K.T. ,  G.C.M.G., 
G.C.V.O.  Lecture  at  3  p.m.,  by  Mr.  R.  New- 
stead,  A.L.S.,  F.E.S.,  on  "West  Indian  Plant 
Insect  Pests."  Cinematograph  displays  and 
lectures,  12. .30  p.m.  to  6  p.m.,  28.  tid.  Royal 
Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster. 

December  2,  3  and  4. — Royal  Horticultural 
Society's  Show  of  Colonial  Fruits  and  of  Bottled 
British  Fruits,  10  a.m.  to  6  p.m.  Cinematograph 
displays  of  Colonial  life  and  work.  Lectures. 
Admission,  Is.  on  first  day,  tid.  on  second  and 
third  days.  Royal  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster. 

The  Perpetual  Flowering 
Capnatlon  i^^oclety's   fopthcomlng 

exhibition. — The  next  exhibition  arranged 
by  this  society  is  to  be  held  in  the  Horti- 
cultural Hall,  Vincent  Square,  Westminster, 
on  December  8.  The  annual  dinner  of  the 
society  will  also  be  held  on  the  evening  of 
the  same  day  at  the  Hotel  Windsor,  Victoria 
Street,  Westminster.  The  schedule  is  an 
exceedingly  good  one,  and  an  excellent  show 
of  these  charming  winter  flowers  should  be  made. 
Section  C,  including  seven  classes,  is  for  amateurs 
only,  i.  e. ,  for  those  who  cultivate  their  Carnations 
themselves,  or  who  are  only  assisted  at  the  most 
by  a  "  part-time "  helper,  and  the  committee 
hope  that  these  amateurs  will  put  up  their  own 
exhibits.  The  hon.  secretary  is  Mr.  Hayward 
Mathias,  Lucerne,  Stubbington,  Farehaih,  Hants, 
and  he  will  be  pleased  to  send  full  particulars  to 
anyone  who  requires  them. 

International  exhibition  at 
Brussels,  1910;— We  have  received  from 
the  horticulture  committee  of  the  Royal  Com- 
mission, Brussels,  Rome  and  Turin  Exhibitions, 
8,  Whitehall  Place,  London,  W.,  the  schedule 
of  the  horticulture  group  of  the  Exposi- 
tion Universelle  et  Internationale  de  Brussels, 
1910,  and  find  that  it  is  a  very  extensive  and 
comprehensive  one.  Practically  all  kinds  of 
flowers  are  catered  for,  and  there  is  an  extensive 
section  devoted  to  fruit.  Floral  art  and  garden 
architecture  will  also  be  encouraged,  a  large 
number  of  classes  being  devoted  to  these.  Plant 
novelties  are  also  invited,  so  that  altogether  the 
exhibition  promises  to  be  a  very  good  one  indeed. 

Royal  Hoptlcultupal  Society's 
Club, — The  second  journal  of  this  club  has  just 
been  published,  and  its  contents  will,  we  think, 
be  of  considerable  interest  to  those  who  have  in 
any  way  been  connected  with  the  society's 
gardens.  The  frontispiece  consists  of  an  excel- 
lent portrait  of  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart., 
K.C.V.O.,  V.M.H.,  and  a  good  portrait  of  the 
Rev.  W.  Wilks  is  given.  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence 
contributes  an  interesting  article  on  the  effects  of 


frosts  at  Burford  in  1909  ;  Mr.  J.  Fraser  gives 
some  interesting  reminiscences  of  Chiswick  ;  Mr. 
A.  du  Bottomley  deals  extensively  with  Mushroom 
culture  ;  and  the  Rev.  W.  Wilks  gives  some 
valuable  hints  on  observation.  In  addition,  there 
are  many  interesting  and  widely  varying  contri- 
butions from  members  of  the  club,  with  a  list  of 
members  and  their  addresses. 

Royal  Caledonian  Hopticultupal 

Society. — At  the  November  meeting  of  the 
council  of  this  society  a  gold  Neill  Medal  was 
unanimously  awarded  to  the  Rev.  J.  Aikman 
Paton,  Soulseat,  Castle  Kennedy,  in  recognition 
of  the  valuable  work  he  is  doing  in  connexion 
with  hybridising  tuberous  Solanums.  The  Neill 
Medal  is  one  which  is  awarded  for  research  or 
invention,  or  for  anything  which  would  in  any 
way  tend  to  the  advancement  of  horticulture 
either  in  science  or  practice,  and  this  is  the  first 
time  such  an  award  has  been  made. 

Ppesentation    to    Mp.   James 

BlacklOCk,  SOUthwlck.  —  Mr.  James 
Blaoklock,  gardener  to  Sir  Mark  J.  MacTaggart- 
Stewart,  Bart. ,  at  his  Kirkcudbrightshire  seat  of 
Southwick,  Dumfries,  has  been  presented  by  a 
number  of  friends  with  a  gold  watch  as  a  token 
of  their  high  esteem  for  him  on  the  occasion  of 
his  retirement  from  Southwick  and  his  leaving 
the  district.  Mr.  Blacklock  has  been  for  many 
years  gardener  at  Southwick,  where  he  has  done 
much  good  work,  not  only  in  a  horticultural 
sphere,  but  in  various  public  capacities.  He  has 
been  in  poor  health  for  some  time,  and  is  leaving 
to  take  up  residence  at  Crossmichael,  and  this 
was  taken  opportunity  of  to  show  the  respect 
entertained  for  him  by  those  with  whom  he  was 
associated.  Mr.  Blaoklock  has  often  officiated  as 
a  judge  at  shows,  and  has  been  very  helpful  to 
his  brethren  of  the  eraft  in  the  district.  Mrs. 
Blacklock  also  received  a  gift. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


Polygonum  baldschuanlcum  not 

floweplng. — I  have  two  plants.  One,  three 
years  planted,  on  an  open  verandah  (outside) 
facing  south,  has  climbed  over  the  roof  and 
above  the  top  of  the  first-floor  windows.  This 
has  been  a  mass  of  white  flowers  for  many  weeks, 
the  most  ornamental  climber  in  the  garden  after 
the  Roses.  The  other,  four  years  planted, 
between  two  old,  much-pollarded  Elms,  open 
only  to  the  east,  has  grown  as  rampantly  as  the 
first,  but  has  scarcely  had  six  flower-spikes  this 
summer.  The  two  plants,  however,  came  from 
different  nurseries,  so  we  are  no  "forrarder." — 
A.  0.  W.,  Ulcomhe,  Kent. 

I  read  with  interest  your  notes  on  Poly- 
gonum baldschuanlcum.  I  have  had  a  plant  for 
six  years  which  has  not  flowered,  but  which 
grows  rampantly.  This  plant  was  brought  from 
Paris.  Last  year  I  got  one  in  Dublin.  The 
latter  has  flowered  well.  The  two  plants  are 
within  20  feet  of  each  other.  I  consider  that 
there  must  be  a  non-flowering  variety  from  this 
behaviour.  It  (the  flowering  one)  was  killed 
last  week  by  the  frost ;  up  till  then  it  was  a  mass 
of  bloom. — W.  MjicCARTHv,  County  Limerick. 

"  Accidental  eposses  "  in  Fepns.— 

"  N.  B."  writes  :  "In  referring  to  the  article  on 
Ferns  in  The  Gakhen  for  October  23,  there  is  an 
allusion  to  '  accidental  crosses. '  Will  you  please 
say  if  Ferns  can  be  hybridised,  and,  if  so,  how  it  is 
done?'  The  fact  that  varieties,  and  even  species, 
of  Ferns  can  be  crossed  or  hybridised  is  placed 
beyond  all  doubt  by  the  existence  of  a  number 
of  forms  clearly  showing  the  combined  character 
of  two  distinct  parents,  sometimes  intentionally 
brought  about  and  in  others  accidentally  obtained 
by  chance  intermixture  of  diverse  spores.  Owing 
to  the  microscopic  size  of  the  equivalents  of  pollen 


and  stigma,  which  are  formed  underneath  the 
little  green  scale  produced  by  the  spore,  it  is  prac- 
tically impossible  to  cross-fertilise  in  the  same 
simple  way  as  with  pollen,  and  the  only  way  to 
bring  about  a  combination  is  to  sow  the  spores  of 
the  two  selected  parents,  which  should  be  very 
distinct  to  ensure  any  definite  results,  somewhat 
thickly  together  in  the  same  pan.  When  the 
prothalli,  the  little  green  scales  aforesaid,  are 
full  size,  i.e.,  about  the  size  of  a  herring  scale, 
and  the  fertilising  period  arrives,  swarms  of  tiny 
motile,  ciliated  organisms,  the  equivalent  of 
pollen  grains,  issue  from  the  under  side  of  the 
prothallus  and  find  their  way,  by  swimming,  to 
ovaries,  or  embryo  seeds,  embedded  therein  a 
fraction  of  an  inch  distant.  Obviously,  therefore, 
self-fertilisation  must  be  the  rule,  since  these 
organisms  cannot  possibly  pass  from  one  scale  to 
another  unless  carried  thither  by  water.  This 
being  so,  the  best  plan  at  this  juncture  is  to  lower 
the  pan  into  water  until  it  rises  and  just  floods 
the  prothalli.  The  water  should  be  tepid  and 
the  partial  submersion  last  half  an  hour  or  so. — 
C.  T.  Drueky. 

Mildew-pPOOf  Roses.— In  The  Garden 
for  October  30  (page  527),  Mr.  W.  J.  Chapman 
asks  for  a  list  of  mildew-proof  Roses.  As  far  as 
my  experience  goes — and  that  extends  over 
thirty  years — I  am  convinced  that  there  are  very 
few  varieties  absolutely  proof  against  this 
annoying  disease.  Might  I  also  say  that  even  a 
bad  attack  one  year  is  no  proof  that  the  following 
season  will  also  be  a  bad  one  in  respect  of  mildew. 
Last  year  (1908)  the  bushes  here  were  really 
badly  affected,  notwithstanding  a  large  amount 
of  labour  expended  on  applying  so-called 
remedies.  This  year  there  has  been  practioally 
no  appearance  of  the  trouble,  and  yet  not  once 
have  I  used  any  fungicide  on  my  plants.  The 
same  thing  happened  some  dozen  years  ago, 
while  I  was  in  charge  of  another  garden,  so  that 
it  seems  that  the  weather  is  the  main  or  only 
cause  of  mildew.  Nor  does  a  bad  attack  ef 
mildew  appear  to  injuriously  affect  the  next 
season's  crop  of  bloom,  as  this  year  we  have 
had  an  excellent  show  of  beautiful  flowers. 
I  append  a  short  list  of  the  varieties  that 
seldom  suffer  to  any  extent  in  this  late,  cold 
district ;  it  may  interest  Mr.  Chapman  and 
other  Rose-growers.  Captain  Hayward,  Caroline 
Testout,  Clara  Watson,  Dean  Hole,  Duchess  of 
Albany,  Exquisite,  Grace  Darling,  Gruss  an 
Teplitz,  Hugh  Dickson,  J.  B.  Clark,  Jeannie 
Dickson,  Lady  Ashtown,  Le  Progress,  Liberty, 
Mme.  Ravary,  Marquise  Litta,  Mavoumeen,  M. 
Paul  Led6,  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward,  Mrs.  David  McKee, 
Mrs.  J.  Laing,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Mrs.  R.  G. 
Sharman  Crawford,  Pharisaer,  Prince  de 
Bulgarie,  Suzanne  Marie  Rodooanaohi  and  Ulrich 
Brunner. — C.  Blair,  Pre.iion  House,  Linlithgow. 

Mlmulus  (Dlplacus)  glutlnosuB. 
This  is  much  hardier  than  is  supposed.  Three 
plants  in  different  exposed  but  dry  situations  all 
stood  last  winter  and  flowered  all  the  summer. 
But  the  roots  must  be  well  drained,  e.g.,  on  a 
rockery.  The  colour  is  much  deeper  when  so 
treated  than  when  grown  under  glass  (flowers 
enclosed). — A.  0.  W.,  Ulcombe,  Kent. 

A  gold  medal  fop  new  Roses:  A 
suggestion. — Two  classes  of  new  Roses 
come  before  the  public  every  year  at  the 
National  Rose  Society's  exhibitions  and  exhi- 
bitions of  kindred  societies.  The  first  class  are 
seedling  Roses  or  sports  ' '  either  not  yet  in 
commerce  or  not  first  distributed  earlier  than 
November  "  of  the  preceding  year.  The  second 
class  are  "  Roses  offered  for  the  first  time  in  the 
lists  issued  by  the  nurserymen  of  the  British 
Isles  in  the  spring  of  "  three  years  ago  or  subse- 
quently. Any  Rose  in  the  first  class,  if 
exhibited,  is  eligible  for  a  gold  medal ;  but  for  a 
Rose  in  the  second  class,  other  than  those 
termed  "  seedlings  or  sports,"  no  distinguishing 
mark  of  approval  is  available.  At  present  the 
gold  medal  of  the  National  Rose  Society  is  con- 
fined to  Roses  that  are  practically  not  out  of  the 


November  27,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


575 


raiser's  hands  ;  to  Bases  untried  ia  climates  not 
their  own  ;  wiiile  for  new  Roses  of  the  second 
class  which  have  been  in  commerce  long  enough 
to  have  their  merits  tested  nothing  is  done. 
A  Rose  in  this  class  may  be  good  or  worthless, 
but  there  is  no  means  by  which  the  National 
Rose  Society  oan  set  its  stamp  of  approval  on 
any  one  of  them.  Sarely  it  is  desirable,  con- 
sidering the  many  excellent  Roses  that  are 
being  raised  and  distributed  beyond  the 
British  Isles,  that  all  new  Roses,  whether 
British,  American,  Contiaental  or  otherwise, 
should  not  only  be  eligible,  but  should  have 
equal  facilities,  for  obtaining  the  highest 
commendation  of  the  National  Rose  Society. 
Can  anything  be  done  in  this  direction  ?  Can 
any  method  be  devised  whereby  the  Rose-loving 
public  shall  be  able  to  know  the  opinion  of  the 
National  Rose  Scciety  on  the  best  of  the  new 
Roses  sent  out  during  the  last  three  years,  and 
at  the  same  time  give  the  raisers  of  such 
varieties  an  encouraging  award  ?  May  I  offer  a 
suggestion  ?  Continue  the  present  system  of 
awards  for  seedling  Roses  and  sports  ;  awards 
made  on  the  day  and  at  the  time  of  their  exhibi- 
tion ;  there  is  no  need  to  abolish  that.  But,  ia 
addition,  arrange  for  an  award  for  the  best  new 
R^ses,  given  when  the  season  is  over,  and,  after 
mature  consideration,  to  any  Rose  of  any 
nationality  which  comes  within  the  term  of  "  a 
new  Rose "  as  defioed  by  the  National  Rose 
Society.  How  shall  we  set  about  our  task  ? 
Among  other  points,  information  will  be  required 
as  to  the  ever-blooming  qualities  of  the  Rose  ; 
has  it  been  seen  in  good  form  in  public  ;  has  it 
been  exhibited  at  eirly,  midseason  and  late 
shows '!  To  be  good  at  one  exhibition  is  not 
enough.  We  shall  want  reports  of  the  Rose. 
Therefore,  let  the  National  Rose  Society,  in 
addition  to  the  three  exhibitions  held  by  the 
society,  select,  say,  three  forthcoming  exhibitions 
of  other  societies  at  which  new  Roses  shall  be 
staged.  It  is  deemed  advisable  the  National 
Rose  Society  might  provide  the  classes  for  these. 
The  judges  at  these  additional  exhibitions  shall 
be  asked  to  send  comments  to  the  hon.  secretary 
oE  the  National  Rose  Society  on  any  Rose  or 
Roses  in  these  classes  which  may  be  thought 
worthy  of  notice.  Remarks  individually  or 
collectively  to  be  submitted  in  writing.  A  select 
committee  shall  be  appointed,  to  meet  as  early 
an  possible  after  the  autumn  exhibition  of  the 
National  Rose  Society,  to  receive  the  reports  and 
to  confer  as  to  the  merits  of  any  new  Rose  seen  by 
the  committee  or  any  one  member,  with  a  view 
to  recommending  any  Rose  or  Roses  as  worthy 
of  a  gold  medal.  The  report  to  be  submitted 
to  the  general  committee  at  the  November 
meeting. — Joseph  H.  Pemberton. 

Lilies  of  the  Valley  fop  table 
decopatlon. — Now  that  the  flowers  in  the 
outdoor  garden  have  been  destroyed  by  frost,  we 
must  rely  upon  the  greenhouse  for  blossoms  to 
decorate  the  dinner-table,  and  nothing  is  more 
welcome  than  the  dainty,  wax-like  and  fragrant 
spikes  of  Lily  of  the  Valley.  If  retarded 
crowns  are  bought  and  potted  about  eight  in  a 
4i-inch  pot,  then  plunged  in  Cocoanut  fibre 
over  the  hot-water  pipes  and  kept  dark  and 
moist,  flower-spikes  will  be  quickly  pushed  up. 

1  find  that  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  an  inch  or 

2  inches  high  it  is  safe  to  admit  a  little  light  and 
more  air,  and  after  a  day  or  two  lift  the  pots  out 
and  stand  them  on  the  greenhouse  stage.  When 
cutting  these  forced  flowers,  take  them  ofiF  close 
to  the  soil  with  leaves  intact.  The  simpler  these 
are  arranged  on  the  dinner-table  the  better,  a 
low,  green  vase  loosely  filled  forming  a  charming 
feature. — C.  M. 

GaPdeningr  for  profit.— Your  leading 
article  on  this  subject,  in  the  issue  of  The  Garden 
for  November  6,  is  well  timed,  and  so  entirely 
agrees  with  one's  own  experiences  that  a  few 
words  by  way  of  endorsement  may  not  be  out  of 
place.  Over  and  over  again  are  questions  put  to 
one,  by  people  possessing  not  the  smallest  elemen- 
tary knowledge  of  gardening,  as  to  whether  it 


were  possible  to  make  a  living  by  growing  this  or 
that  for  market.  Twice  recently  have  corre- 
spondents enquired  as  to  the  possibility  of  growing 
Violets  for  this  purpose  ;  another  was  possessed 
of  an  outhouse  and  shed  and  was  desirous  of 
' '  forcing  early  vegetables  "  ;  while  yet  another 
was  most  anxious  to  obtain  sufficient  information 
to  enable  him  to  grow  Mushrooms.  Another  was 
hopeful  of  making  a  profit  out  of  growing  Daffodils 
for  market  from  an  orchard  of  very  old  standing. 
In  each  of  these  instances  the  would-be  growers 
had  not  the  smallest  idea  of  the  work  ;  yet  from 
something  they  had  read  they  were  prepared  to 
risk  large  sums  of  money  in  these  and  similar 
ways.  Doubtless  not  a  few  have  been  led  to 
make  the  enquiries  after  reading  the  glowing 
accounts  of  the  fabulous  profits  arising  from  such 
work  as  given  in  the  daily  Press  from  time  to 
time,  and  correspondents  clamouring  to  become 
millionaires  have  desired  to  go  and  do  likewise. 
To  each  and  all  of  the  many  such  applications  as 
I  have  received  I  have  endeavoured,  first,  to 
disabuse  the  minds 
of  correspondents,  \ 
and,  secondly,  to 
dissuade  them 
from  making  the 
attempt.  Of  my 
own  knowledge 
and  the  experience 
of  years,  I  know 
that  the  market 
commission  sales- 
man has  no  more 
difficult  task  than 
that  of  refusing  to 
accept  driblets  at 
intervals  from 
would-be  cultiva- 
tors of  this  sort, 
though  the  infor- 
mation that  there 
is  "no  market  for 
such  goods"  is 
rarely  credited. 
Those  who  seek  to 
"  grow  for  market," 
and  with  only  half 
an  acre  or  an  old 
Apple  orchard  at 
their  command, 
surely  have  not 
realised  that  even 
on  a  single  morning 
thousands  of 
bunches  of  the  more 
popular  sorts  of 
flowers  are  dis- 
posed of  in  a  few 
hours;  hence 
the  half-dozen 
bunches  of  Mignon- 
ette or  the  few 
Sweet  Peas  these 
very  small  growers 
would  be  able  to  send  would  be  lost  entirely. 
Those  who  are  so  particularly  anxious  to  grow 
for  market  on  the  lines  indicated  would  hardly 
give  the  subject  a  second  thought  could  they  but 
see  the  tons  of  waste  material  often  carted  away 
from  some  of  the  big  markets  on  a  single  morning. 
It  is  in  these  circumstances,  therefore,  that  one 
cannot  offer  a  word  of  encouragement  to  the 
inexperienced  who  would  attempt  "gardening 
for  profit"  on  these  lines.  It  is  quite  another 
matter  if,  having  a  desire  to  grow  plants  and 
flowers,  and  in  this  way  add  a  few  shillings  or 
pounds  to  their  little  all,  they  take  up  the  culti- 
vation of  Pansies,  Violets,  Auriqulas,  S  weet  Peas, 
bedding  plants  or  the  like,  and  dispose  of  them 
in  the  locality  in  which  they  reside,  for  then  a 
certain  profit  may  result.  But  to  attempt  to 
enter  into  competition  with  those  whose  life's 
work  it  has  been,  with  acres  of  land  or  glass 
houses,  or  both,  at  their  disposal,  savours  of  the 
veriest  madness,  the  result  of  which  would  be 
failure,  dismal  and  complete. — Market  Grower. 


THE    KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

CABBAGE  LETTUCES  IN  SCOTLAND. 

THE  Lettuce  is  the  most  important  and 
wholesome  of  our  salading  plants,  and 
the  Cabbage  varieties  have  been  so 
much  improved  of  recent  years  that 
it  is  hardly  worth  while  troubling 
with  the  Cos  section.  I  have  to 
maintain  a  constant  supply  of  perfectly  blanched, 
tender  Lettuce  for  as  long  a  season  as  possible  ; 
so  after  many  experiments  with  the  varieties 
offered  by  the  various  seed  merchants,  I  have 
now  secured  four  or  five  sorts  that  give  entire 
satisfaction  at  table,  and  that  have  also  the  strong 
recommendation  of  standing  quite  a  long  time  in 
good  condition.  For  earliest  supplies  I  invariably 
rely  on  Carter's  Holborn  Standard.  It  is  not  the 
largest  variety,  but  is  of  fine,  compact  growth 
and  delicate  flavour.  Besides  doing  admirably 
as  an  early  sort,  it  may  be  grown  all  the  summer 


LILIES  OF  THE   VALLEY   USED   TOR  TABLE   DBCORATIOX. 


with  the  best  results.  New  York  Giant  is  our 
largest  sort,  but  never  grows  coarse  ;  it  is  as 
crisp  and  delicate  in  flavour  as  the  finest  Cos. 
Dickson's  Pearl  is  a  fine  new  Irish  sort  that  does 
very  well  here,  but  should  not  be  grown  for  lat 
use,  as  it  is  rather  more  tender  than  the  others 
named.  Iceberg  is  another  Irish-raised  Lettuce, 
and,  although  an  older  sort,  is  here  of  even  better 
quality  and  grows  to  a  larger  size  than  Pearl. 
It  is  very  crisp  and  of  delicious  flavour.  The  last 
variety  I  will  mention  is  Sutton's  Heartwell.  It 
is  a  splendid  Lettuce,  especially  in  a  dry  summer. 
The  leaves  are  very  broad  and  smooth,  but  it 
"hearts"  well,  and  so  is  appropriately  named.  It 
stands  a  long  time  in  good  condition. 

Preston,  House,  Linlithgow.  C.  Blaik. 


COARSE    CARROTS. 
Recently,  on  going  through  a  well-kept  kitchen 
garden,  my  attention  was  called  to  a  splendid 
bed    of    Carrots — large,   straight    roots,   which, 


576 


THE    GARDEN. 


[November  27,  1909. 


however,  were  not  liked  in  the  dining-room,  the 
smallest  roots  possible  of  this  variety  being  used 
and  the  large  ones  rejected, and  I  was  asked  why 
suoh  fine  roots  were  lound  fault  with.  We  have 
in  the  past  somewhat  overlooked  quality,  and 
mere  size,  even  when  the  roots  are  of  the  best 
shape  and  colour,  is  not  always  aooeptable.  Large 
Carrots  of  certain  varieties  have  a  hard  yellow 
oore.  This  many  persons  object  to,  and  it  is  a 
point  growers  should  not  overlook.  It  is  a  very 
simple  matter  to  grow  small,  sweet  roots.  I  am 
aware  that  for  exhibition  small  roots  would  lose 
points. 

For  years  in  The  Garden  I  have  advo- 
cated, instead  of  one  large  sowing  in  the  early 
spring,  three  or  four  sowings  during  the  year 
— an  early  one  in  February  on  a  south  border, 
another  in  the  open  in  May  for 
the  late  summer  and  autumn 
supply,  and  a  larger  July  or 
August  sowing.  These  last-sown 
roots  remain  in  the  soil.  The 
Carrot  is  quite  hardy,  and  if  one 
of  the  Short  Horn  types  are  sown, 
sweet,  tender  roots  may  be  had  all 
the  year  round.         G.  Wythes. 


that  now  it  is  only  the  showy  and  quick-growing 
which  hold  their  own,  the  pretty  and  interesting 
being  to  a  great  extent  passed  over. 

To  return  to  the  greenhouse  species  of  Drosera, 
the  "Kew  Hand  List"  contains  the  following: 
Drosera  aurioulata,  a  curious  climbing  species 
from  Australia  ;  D.  binata,  above  referred  to  ; 
U.  burkeana,  from  Natal ;  D.  oapensis,  from 
South  Africa  ;  D.  spathulata,  like  the  two  imme- 
diately preceding  this,  is  one  of  the  rosette- 
growing  kinds  and  comes  from  Australia  ;  and  D. 
ramentaoea,  from  South  Africa. 

To  these  must  be  added  the  nearly  allied 
Drosophyllum  lusitanicum,  which  forms  a  some- 
what woody  stem,  at  the  top  of  which  the  long, 
slender  leaves  are  disposed.  This  Drosophyllum 
exists  under  drier  conditions  than  the  Droseras, 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


N 


GREENHOUSE. 


AN    AUSTRALIAN     SUN- 
DEW. 
(Drosera  binata.) 

OU  R  own  British 
Sundew  (Drosera 
rotundifolia)  is  a 
well-known  plant 
in  damp,  boggy 
spots,  where  it 
forms  charming  little  rosettes  of 
roundish  leaves,  every  one  of 
which  is  thickly  studded  with 
hairs,  each  hair  being  tipped  by 
a  small  drop  of  glutinous  liquid. 

From  this  well-known  kind  the 
species  herewith  figured  differs 
widely,  as  the  cylindrical-shaped 
leaves  are  very  curiously  forked, 
and,  being  borne  on  rather  long 
stalks,  the  entire  plant,  irrespec- 
tive of  the  flower-spike,  reaches  a 
height  of  6  inches  to  8  inches. 
When  in  bloom,  as  may  be  seen 
in  the  accompanying  illustration, 
this  height  is  considerably  ex- 
ceeded. As  a  flowering  plant  this 
Sundew  is  certainly  worthy  of 
note.  It  is  a  native  of  Australia, 
and  is  often  known  by  the  specific 
name  of  diehotoma.  Where  fully 
exposed  to  the  sun  the  leaves  and 
translucent  drops  frequently  be- 
come reddish.  Under  the  name  of 
Drosera  diehotoma  rubra  this 
form  was  given  a  second-class 
certificate  by  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society  on  September  16. 
1879,  but  the  peculiarity  did  not  prove  to  be 
a  permanent  feature.  This  Australian  Sundew 
can  be  very  readily  propagated  by  cuttings 
of  the  stout,  fleshy  roots,  out  up  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  long  and  laid  in  pans  in  a 
mixture  of  finely  chopped  sphagnum  moss  and 
silver  sand,  placing  them  afterwards  in  a  warm 
house. 

These  exotic  species  of  Drosera  cannot  be 
regarded  as  popular  plants,  and  it  is  but  rarely 
that  they  can  be  found  in  nurseries.  Perhaps 
some  day  the  fashion  may  change,  and  these, 
with  hosts  of  other  interesting  plants,  be  rescued 
from  the  comparative  neglect  into  which  they 
have  now  fallen.  During  a  period  of  between 
forty  and  fifty  years  that  I  have  been  connected 
with  horticulture  I  have  seen  the  rise  and  fall  in 
popularity  of  many  classes  of  plants,  and  find 


ONE  OF  THE   AUSTRALIAN   SUNDEWS   (DROSERA   BINATA), 


which  need  for  their  successful  culture  a  liberal 
amount  of  atmospheric  moisture.  As  a  rooting 
medium  they  delight  in  a  mixture  of  peat, 
sphagnum  moss  and  silver  sand,  with  a  surfacing 
of  live  sphagnum  moss,  which,  when  growing, 
seems  very  conducive  to  the  welfare  of  the 
Droseras.  Given  plenty  of  moisture,  they  thrive 
in  a  sunny  spot. 

When  grown  in  a  position  where  small 
flying  insects  abound,  these  Sundews  often 
catch  so  many  that  the  beauty  of  the  plant  is 
thereby  impaired.  The  same  applies  to  any 
particles  of  dust  which  may  happen  to  be  floating 
about,  as  the  glutinous  tips  catch  all  that  may  be 
present.  For  this  reason  they  are  sometimes 
covered  with  bell-glasses,  not  for  the  sake  of  the 
extra  warmth,  but  to  keep  the  leaves  in  good 
condition.  H.  F. 


ROOT  PROPAGATION  OF  HARDY 
HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS. 

0  phase  of  gardening  is  more  fraught 
with  interest  than  the  general  pro- 
pagation of  plants.  That  numbers 
of  plants  reproduce  themselves  a 
hundredfold  by  means  of  their  roots 
is  well  known,  and  we  have  instances 
of  this  in  mere  weeds,  as,  e.^. ,  the  Dock  and  the 
Dandelion,  or  in  the  garden  in  certain  sections  of 
the  Michaelmas  Daisy.  In  these  directions, 
however,  the  knowledge  we  possess  of  these 
facts  is  of  service  in  assisting  to  keep  such 
rampant-growing  plants  within 
proper  limits.  But  other  plants 
display  a  marked  tendency  to 
reproduce  their  kind  by  means 
of  roots,  which,  however,  are  of 
little  value  to  the  gardener  for 
some  reason  or  another.  Of  these 
the  Heleniums  and  the  Phloxes 
are  instances,  and  as  the  plants 
are  easily  increased  by  cuttings 
or  division  in  the  usual  way, 
their  multiplication  by  any  other 
means  is  neither  desirable  nor 
profitable.  But  there  are  other 
instances  where  root  propagation 
is  of  much  value,  and  particularly 
so  in  those  oases  where  the  plants, 
producing  no  cuttings  in  the  usual 
way,  are  also  difficult  to  increase 
by  seeds  or  division  of  the  roots. 
Now  and  again  one  meets  with 
a  plant  which  rarely  produces  a 
fertile  seed  in  this  country  at  all, 
and  which  is  also  almost  impos- 
sible to  increase  by  the  ordinary 
methods  of  division.  Such  a 
plant  is  Seneoio  pulcher,  an  in- 
valuable plant  during  the  late 
summer  and  early  autumn  months, 
and  one  but  rarely  seen  in  good 
condition.  Hence  root  propaga- 
tion in  such  a  case  is  of  great 
value,  and  prevents  so  good  a 
plant  being  lost  to  cultivation 
altogether.  Then  there  are  certain 
other  plants  which,  while  produc- 
ing seeds  in  plenty  and  being 
available  at  a  cheap  rate,  are  so 
slow,  and  uncertain,  often  enough, 
to  vegetate  that  other  methods  of 
increase  show  an  unmistakable 
advantage  in  point  of  time.  Of 
such  things  the  Statices  afibrd  a 
good  example,  and  there  are 
others  where  this  same  method 
of  root  propagation  is  a  decided 
gain  in  this  direction. 

From  another  point  of  view, 
root  propagation  is  of  great  value 
to  the  specialist,  as  by  its  means 
selected  examples  of  certain  plants 
which  cannot  be  relied  upon  to 
come  true  from  seeds  may  be  readily  increased 
and  always  prove  true  to  their  kind ;  that  is  to 
say,  while  the  flowers  or  seeds  are  exposed  to 
cross-fertilisation  by  insects,  the  roots  still  retain 
the  true  character  of  the  individual  plant  in  its 
entirety.  Hence  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the 
root  propagation  of  plants  is  to  the  gardener  a 
most  useful  and  valuable  asset,  and  a  means  in 
certain  instances  to  be  made  much  of. 

Quite  recently  many  of  our  readers  have  made 
enquiries  into  this  method  of  plant  propagation, 
and  the  subject  being  of  a  seasonable  nature,  we 
give  in  greater  or  less  detail  the  essential 
items  for  its  successful  adoption.  Happily  for 
those  interested,  the  work  may  be  carried  out 
during  the  winter  season,  and,  indeed,  the 
dormant  period  of  the  subjects  is  the  best  time. 
What  has  to  be  done  is  to  lift  a  good-sized  plant 


November  27,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


577 


from  the  open  ground  and  detach  as  many  of  its 
roots  aa  may  be  deemed  expedient  and  safe. 
The  detached  roots  should  then  be  taken  to  the 
potting-shed  and  out  into  lengths  of  about 
IJ  inches,  taking  care  at  this  juncture  that  the 
uppermost  ends  of  the  roots,  i.e.,  the  end  which 
was  nearest  to  the  rootstook  before  being  out 
away,  are  kept  uppermost  throughout.  By  laying 
the  root  lengths  in  order  as  out,  no  subsequent 
confusion  need  exist  on  this  head,  and  the  work 
of  cutting  up  completed,  the  root-cuttings  should 
be  forthwith  inserted.  The  manner  of  dealing 
with  these  cuttings  subsequently  is  to  prepare 
some  well-drained  pots  or  pans,  the  former  for 
preference,  and  fill  them  rather  more  than  half 
full  of  rather  sandy  soil.  At  this  point  it  will 
be  necessary  to  gauge  the  cuttings  and  to 
determine  whether  more  soil  should  be  added  to 
the  pots  or  some  removed.  When  the  cuttings 
are  inserted  and  the  work  completed,  the  apical 
portion  of  the  cutting  should  be  just  visible 
above  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  level  with  the 
rim  of  the  pot,  the  cuttings  being  placed  around 
the  interior  of  the  rim  in  a  not  quite  upright 
position.  In  this  way  the  operator  can  judge 
for  himself  as  to  the  work  being  rightly  done. 
The  cuttings  should  be  placed  around  at  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart  or  thereabouts,  or  at 
a  greater  distance  if  there  is  no  scarcity  of 
room.  When  the  root-cuttings  are  in  position, 
the  remaining  space  should  be  filled  with  soil, 
taking  care  not  to  displace  the  cuttings  in  doing 
this.  By  making  the  soil  of  a  sandy  nature  new 
root-fibres  are  more  quickly  formed  when, 
presently,  top  growth  begins.  The  best  position 
for  these  pots  of  root-cuttings  is  in  the  greenhouse 
frame,  where  a  slight  warmth,  say,  of  45°  or  50° 
obtains.  Given  one  good  watering  when  the 
work  is  completed,  the  pots  in  the  position  and 
warmth  suggested  will  require  no  more  for  a 
fortnight.  If  no  frame  is  at  command,  the  pots 
of  cuttings  may  be  plunged  in  fibre  or  sand  in 
pots  oi  much  larger  size,  and,  by  placing  a  sheet 
of  glass  over  all,  secure  that  degree  of  uniformity 
which  is  so  desirable. 

All  that  is  now  necessary  is  a  little  patience,  and 
a  month  or  six  weeks  may  elapse  before  any  signs 
of  new  life  are  seen  from  the  apices  of  the 
cuttings.  First  we  see  a  swelling  or  callusing  ot 
the  surface,  and  subsequently  miniature  pro- 
tuberances that  develop  into  shoots,  the  latter 
often  appearing  quite  numerously.  So  much  so 
is  this  the  case  that  in  the  larger-rooted  species 
of  plants,  such  as  Anchusa  italica  and  the 
Japanese  Anemones,  it  has  been  found  desirable 


A  BED   OF  PBRPETTJAL-FLOWEEIKG  CAENATIONS. 


to  halve  or  even  quarter  the  roots  longitudinally 
before  inserting  them — a  sort  of  muUum  in  parvo 
method  that  possesses  a  greater  value  to  the 
commercial  than  to  the  amateur.  The  most 
serviceable  size  of  root  is  that  about  the  equal  of 
a  oedar-wood  pencil  for  the  largest,  and  say  half 
that  size  for  the  smallest.  This  way  the  largest 
roots  are  secured  to  the  plant.  Though  I  have 
recommended  covering  the  cuttings  with  a  glass 
frame,  care  should  be  taken  to  ventilate  now  and 
again  and  to  avoid  that  wet,  stagnant  condition 
which  may  give  rise  to  decay  rather  than  growth. 
Forcing  by  an  excess  of  heat  is  injurious,  and  will 
merely  produce  the  top  shoots  before  any  root- 
fibres  are  present  to  sustain  life.  Fleshy  roots 
full  of  vitality  are  essential ;  old  roots  that  have 
become  hard  and  wiry  are  usually  valueless. 
The  after-treatment  of  these  root-cuttings,  and 
when  they  shall  have  become  little  plants,  is 
simply  that  given  to  small  seedlings  requiring  to 
be  individualised  to  produce  the  best  results  ; 
and  when  this  is  done  the  genial  conditions  of  a 
frame  or  a  greenhouse  will  be  found  highly 
beneficial.  There  need  be  no  hurry  to  do  this, 
however,  and  only  when  small  leaves  appear, 
giving  evidence  ot  activity  at  the  root,  should 
the  work  be  taken  in  hand.  A  host  of  plants 
respond  to  this  particular  treatment,  but 
I  have  no  intention  of  preparing  an  exhaustive 
list.  A  few  of  the  most  important,  however,  are 
Anemone  japonica,  Anchusa,  Gaillardia,  Senecio 
pulcher.  Primula  (the  roots  of  which  are  small). 


>    H 


V^,*^W 


^  c 


Jiudsaj]  ^l^qs 


A  CLDSTBR  OF  THE   MOCCASIN  FLOWER   (CTPRIPBDIUM  SPEOTABILE), 


Stokesia,  Eryngium,  Echinops,  Statice  and  the 
perennial  Poppy,  none  of  which,  save  the 
Anemone,  afiibrds  the  least  external  evidence 
of  an  amenability  to  respond  to  a  method 
of  treatment  which  is  as  valuable  to  the  gar- 
dener as  it  is  interesting  and  instructive  to  the 
student.  E.  H.  Jenkiks. 


PERPETUAL  -  FLOWERING  CARNA- 
TIONS FOR  SUMMER  BEDDING. 
I  ENCLOSE  a  photograph,  taken  in  August  last,  of 
a  bed  of  Perpetual-flowering  Carnations  growing 
in  a  villa  garden  in  one  of  the  most  crowded 
suburbs  of  London.  As  you  will  see,  it  is  a 
collection  of  mixed  varieties.  These  were  planted 
out  in  May  from  5inoh  pots,  and  the  owner  says 
they  have  been  one  mass  of  buds  and  blooms  from 
early  June  until  the  present  time,  i.  e. ,  November  5. 
The  only  regret  he  has  is  that  he  has  no  green- 
house, so  as  to  be  able  to  lift  and  pot  them  and 
so  allow  them  to  continue  flowering  during  the 
winter.  This,  considering  our  wretched  summer, 
is  decidedly  good.  I  take  a  particular  delight 
in  forwarding  you  this  photograph,  because  it  was 
The  Garden  who  reported  our  experiments  in 
this  matter  of  using  Perpetual- flowering  Carna- 
tions for  summer  flowering  some  four  years  ago 
at  Messrs.  Low  and  Co.'s  of  Bush  Hill  Park. 
You  have  also  had  repeated  notes  on  the  subject. 
This  year  we  have  seen  experiments  carried  out 
by  the  Perpetual  Flowering  Carnation  Society  in 
the  Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's  Park,  and  by  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  its  gardens  at 
Wisley,  while  the  very  fine  bed  of  Britannia  in 
Hyde  Park  has  been  one  mass  of  bloom  from  the 
early  spring  and  a  great  source  of  admiration 
to  all.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  plants  in 
Hyde  Park  were  planted  out  in  May  from  7-inch 
pots,  and  had  been  blooming  all  the  previous 
winter  under  glass.  Montagu  C.  Allwood. 
Bnsh  Hill  Park  Nurstries. 


THE  MOCCASIN  FLOWER. 
(Ctpripedium  spectabilb.  ) 
The  finest  of  all  the  hardy  Cypripediums  and 
commonly  known  as  the  Moccasin  Flower,  C. 
spectabile  is  one  of  the  most  amenable  to  culti- 
vation in  this  country.  Planted  in  a  shady 
border  and  in  congenial  soil,  the  plants  will  in 
time  make  large  tufts,  throwing  up  many  stems 
from  1  foot  to  3  feet  high.  These  growths  are 
clothed  with  broad  and  somewhat  hairy  leaves, 
and  bear  one  to  three  flowers  at  the  top.  The 
flowers  are  very  handsome,  with  broad,  rounded 
outer  segments,  which  are  usually  pure  white, 
but  sometimes  tinted  with  pink.  The  pouch  is 
large,  rosy  in  colour,  but  varying  in  shade  a  good 
deal.  There  is  in  cultivation  also  a  pure  white 
variety,  but  it  is  still  somewhat  rare. 

All  the  hardy  Lady's  Slipper  family  are 
popular  favourites,  and  possess  an  attraction 
that  encourages  one  in  spite  of  difficulties  to 


r)78 


THE    GARDEN. 


'November  27,  1909. 


cultivate  them.  But  they  do  not  flourish  in  all 
gardens,  although  suitable  places  might  be  found 
in  most  for  the  stronger-growing  kinds.  The 
species  illustrated,  with  C.  acaule,  C.  hirsutum 
and  C.  montanuii),  will  enjoy  a  mixture  of  rough 
peat,  fibrous  loam,  well-decayed  leaf-soil,  with  a 
little  sand  and  charcoal,  while  some  chopped 
sphagnum  moss  incorporated  with  it  is  helpful 
in  retaining  moisture. 

Our  native  C.  Caleeolus,  with  the  Siberian  C. 
macranthum  and  ventricosum,  require  soil  of  a 
more  loamy  and  limy  nature.  They  all  like 
somewhat  shady  positions,  and  are  mostly  found 
growing  in  open  woods,  although  C.  spectabile  is 
irequently  loiind  in  more  open,  marshy  places. 
Their  roots  enjoy  running  among  the  decayed 
leaves  that  have  been  accumulating  for  many 
years,  and  in  selecting  a  spot  in  which  to  plant 
any  of  the  Gypripediums  it  would  be  well  to 
bear  this  in  mind.  A  low-lying  spot  in  the  rock 
garden  that  is  thoroughly  well  drained  would 
be  suitable,  provided  that  there  is  the  necessary 
shade. 

After  selecting  the  position  it  will  be  necessary 
to  makeja  bed  of  soil  in  which  they  will  grow. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


T 


EARLY  FLOWERING  SPIRAEAS. 
'^  ■  ">  HE  accompanying  illustration  of  Spiraea 
arguta  directs  attention  to  an  exceed- 
ingly beautiful  and  useful  group  of 
hardy  shrubs.  A  great  many  species 
are  included  in  the  group,  but  for 
general  purposes  a  few  ot  the  best 
only  are  required,  and  it  is  to  those  that  the 
following  notes  allude.  S.  arguta,  as  will  be 
seen  in  the  illustration,  is  a  very  fioriferous 
shrub,  and  if  a  census  of  the  most  ornamental 
shrubs  were  taken  it  would  certainly  be  placed 
among  the  first  dozen.  Although  it  has  only 
been  really  well  known  for  about  fifteen  years,  it 
has  in  that  time  become  exceedingly  popular  and 
is  to  be  found  in  many  gardens.  It  is  of  hybrid 
origin  and  claims  the  early  flowering  S.  Thunbergii 
as  one  parent.  Attaining  a  height  of  5  feet  to 
6  feet,  it  forms  a  shapely  bush  made  up  of 
numerous  thin,  wiry  branchlets  on  a  compara- 
tively small  number  of  main  branches.  These 
branchlets  are   clothed   with   tiny,  light  green 


for  forcing,  and  well  repays  the  small  amount  of 
trouble  it  requires.  S.  prunifolia  fl.  -pi.  is  rather  a 
loose-growing  shrub  which  bears  tiny,  double  white 
flowers  freely  in  spring.  Unfortunately,  it  is 
rather  susceptible  to  late  spring  frosts,  and  young 
shoots  and  buds  are  sometimes  badly  out.  It  is, 
like  the  foregoing  plant,  an  excellent  shrub  for 
forcing. 

The  two  strong-growing  sorts,  S.  trilobata  and 
S.  van  Houttei — the  former  an  Asiatic  species, 
the  latter  a  hybrid — are  both  excellent  free- 
flowering  shrubs,  which  grow  at  least  7  feet  or 
8  feet  high  and  blossom  during  May. 

All  these  Spiraeas  are  of  easy  cultivation  and 
thrive  in  ordinary  garden  soil,  that  of  a  loamy 
character  being  the  most  desirable.  Some,  in 
fact  most  of  them,  can  be  increased  by  means  of 
cuttings  of  semi-ripe  shoots  inserted  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  close  case  in  summer  ;  but  difficulty  is 
often  experienced  with  S.  Thunbergii  and  S. 
arguta,  and  in  the  case  of  these,  it  the  cultivator 
fails  with  cuttings,  he  would  do  well  to  try 
layering.  As  a  rule  these  early  -  flowering 
Spiraeas  do  not  require"  much  pruning,  but  an 
occasional  thinning  out  or  cutting  back  after 
flowering  may  be  given  if  the  plants 
are  outgrowing  their  positions.      D. 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN 


P' 


ONE  or   THE  BEST  EABLT  FLOWBKING   SPIB.a;AS   (S.    ABOnTA), 


As  they  are  not  deep-rooting  plants,  it  will  only 
be  necessary  to  take  out  the  original  soil  to  the 
depth  of  just  over  1  foot.  If  the  soil  is  heavy, 
plenty  of  drainage  in  the  shape  of  bricks  broken 
up  small  will  be  needed  ;  but  if  the  soil  is  sandy, 
little  will  be  necessary.  Then  fill  up  with  the 
compost  recommended  above. 

The  best  time  to  plant  is  in  the  autumn  as 
soon  as  the  foliage  dies  down  or  the  crowns  can 
be  procured.  They  should  never  be  allowed  to 
get  dry,  as  the  fleshy  roots  soon  shrivel  up  if  the 
plants  are  kept  out  of  the  ground  too  long.  In 
planting  make  a  wide  hole,  so  that  the  roots  can 
be  spread  out  horizontally  with  the  crowns 
about  2  inches  below  the  surface.  Well  work 
the  soil  in  between  the  roots  and  make  the  whole 
fairly  firm,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure 
the  crowns. 

Any  of  these  hardy  Lady's  Slippers,  when  well 
grown,  add  much  to  the  beauty  and  interest  of 
the  garden,  and  well  repay  any  trouble  that  may 
have  to  be  taken  in  their  culture,  which,  as 
described  above,  is  not  so  difficult  as  to  deter 
any  lover  of  hardy  plants  from  making  the 
attempt.  W.  I. 


leaves  during  summer,  and  throughout  April  with 
small  heads  of  snow  white  flowers,  which  all 
appear  from  the  upper  sides  of  the  branches,  the 
flowers  being  so  numerous  as  to  completely 
hide  them.  It  is  an  excellent  shrub  for  a 
specimen  plant,  a  large  group,  or  for  forcing.  In 
some  trade  establishments  the  same  plant  is  met 
with  under  the  names  of  multi  flora  alba  and 
arguta  muItiSora. 

S.  Thunbergii,  a  native  of  China  and  Japan, 
is  another  worthy  representative  of  the  group. 
It  forms  a  bush  3  feet  to  4  feet  high  of  peculiarly 
pleasing  outline,  with  the  daintiest  of  pale 
green  leaves.  So  pleasing,  in  fact,  is  the  com- 
bination of  habit  and  foliage  that  the  plant  is 
worth  growing  on  that  account  alone,  leaving  out 
the  question  of  its  pretty  tiny,  white  star-shaped 
flowers,  which  commence  to  open  in  February 
and  are  at  their  best  in  March. 

S.  conferta,  a  hybrid  between  S.  cana  and  S. 
crenata,  is  also  a  fioriferous  white-blossomed 
plant,  while  S.  media,  a  European  species  which 
is  sometimes  called  S.  confusa,  flowers  with  great 
freedom,  the  flowers  being  borne  in  flattened 
heads.     This  species  is  a  particularly  useful  one 


FRUIT  NOTES. 
RUNING  SMALL  FRUITS. 
There  are  many  gardens  of 
such  limited  area  that 
accommodation  cannot  pos- 
sibly be  found  for  Apples,  Pears, 
Plums  and  other  large  fruits,  escept 
it  be  a  few  trained  trees  on  the  walls ; 
but  it  is  rare  indeed  that  space  can- 
not be  found  for  Gooseberries  and 
Currants,  with  a  good  row  or  two  of 
Raspberries.  There  can  be  no  ques- 
tion as  to  the  desirability  of  including 
these  plants,  for  with  reasonable 
attention  at  the  proper  time  they 
will  yield  crops  of  fruits  which  are 
certain  to  meet  with  ready  apprecia- 
tion either  for  use  in  a  fresh  or  pre- 
served state.  Taken  from  one's  own 
garden  the  fruits  will  be  perfectly 
fresh,  and  they  can  be  secured  in 
splendid  condition,  while  the  quality 
from  well-grown  bushes  is  sure  to  be 
infinitely  superior  to  any  that  can 
be  purchased  from  ordinary  vendors. 
Much  of  the  success  which  is 
achieved  in  their  culture  will  depend 
upon  the  manner  in  which  they  are 
dealt  with  during  the  late  autumn, 
as  well  as  in  respect  of  attention  to 
the  soil  and  of  pruning  the  growths.  The  trees 
are  comparatively  gross  feeders,  and  immediately 
the  cutting  can  be  finished — some  months  before 
in  the  case  of  Gooseberries,  as  will  be  pointed 
out  in  due  course — the  whole  surface  of  the 
ground  beneath  them  should  be  cleared  of  weeds, 
lightly  pricked  over  with  a  fork,  and  then  have  a 
dressing  of  sweet  manure.  In  order  to  prevent 
this  material  settling  down  into  a  pasty  mass  in 
wet  weather,  the  cultivator  should  go  over  it 
now  and  again  and  loosen  it  with  a  fork,  so  as  to 
maintain  it  open  for  the  passage  of  water  and 
fresh  air. 

Red  and  White  CnBRANTS,  —  These  fruits 
carry  their  crops  on  spurs  on  the  old  wood,  and 
the  pruning  must,  therefore,  be  hard  back  each 
season.  In  the  summer  it  is  an  excellent 
practice  to  pinch  the  new  shoots  at  six  leaves, 
and  when  back  buds  break  to  follow  this  up 
by  pinching  the  shoots  at  two  leaves  as  made. 
Not  only  does  this  admit  light  and  air  freely  to 
the  fruits,  but  also  to  the  buds  at  the  base,  with 
the  result  that  they  become  properly  ripened  and 
develop  their  full  power  of  producing  fruits.  A 
further    advantage    which    accrues    upon    this 


November  27,1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


579 


system  is  that  it  reduces  the  labour  of  autumn 
or  winter  pruning,  since  nothing  remains  for  the 
grower  to  do  except  out  back  the  stumps  of  these 
summer  shoots  to  the  spurs.  It  is,  of  course, 
most  desirable  that  some  extension  shall  be 
allowed  at  the  extremities,  because  it  encourages 
root  action  and  draws  plentiful  supplies  of  food 
along  the  branches  to  the  fruits.  It  usually 
suffices  to  retain  about  6  inches,  but  a  little  more 
or  less  will  not  make  the  slightest  difference  to 
the  ultimate  results.  This  method  of  spur-pruning 
should  be  applied  to  bush  and  cordon  trees  alike. 

Black  Currants. — This  fruit  is  totally  dis- 
similar in  its  habit  of  cropping  from  its  Red  and 
White  relatives,  for  it  carries  its  fruits  on  the 
younger  wood  and  does  not  develop  spurs.  It  is, 
therefore,  obviously  necessary  that  the  pruner 
shall  proceed  on  different  lines.  Instead  of 
starting  with  the  new  wood,  he 
must  commence  on  the  old,  cutting 
it  clean  out,  and  then,  if  the  plant 
still  remains  in  the  smallest  degree 
crowded,  such  of  the  young  shoots 
should  be  removed  as  will  suffice 
to  leave  the  plant  quite  open.  The 
centre  of  the  bush  should  be  cup- 
shaped  for  the  unobstructed  admis- 
sion of  light  to  the  inner  buds, 
and  the  branches  should  be  so  far 
asunder  that  the  doubled  fist  will 
pass  readily  between  them  in  any 
position. 

Gooseberries.  — Birds  are  so 
exceedingly  partial  to  the  buds  of 
Gooseberries  that  it  is  rarely  wise 
to  attempt  anything  in  the  nature 
of  pruning  until  the  spring,  when 
the  worker  may  proceed  on  pre- 
cisely the  same  lines  as  with  Red 
Currants,  save  that  he  may  leave 
a  few  new  shoots  to  carry  specially 
fine  fiuits.  Instead  of  cutting  in 
the  autumn,  the  shoots  should  be 
tied  up  in  cone-shaped  bundles,  so 
that  in  any  case  the  birds  can 
only  take  a  limited  number  of  the 
exposed  buds,  and  these  can  be 
almost  wholly  preserved  from  their 
attacks  by  occasionally  throwing 
lime  vigorously  into  the  bushes 
when  the  stems  are  damp  after 
rain ;  this  is  not  much  trouble  and 
does  a  vast  amount  of  good. 

Fruit-grower. 


think  its  constitution  will  continue  to  improve. 
Altogether  it  is  a  distinct  advance  and  is  worthy 
of  general  cultivation,  especially  in  a  sheltered 
garden. 

M.  Joseph  Hill.— See  Joseph  Hill. 

M.  Paul  Ledi  (Pernet-Ducher,  1904).— Not 
quite  so  good  a  grower  as  Joseph  Hill,  but 
a  very  beautiful  Rose  that  I  can  strongly  recom- 
mend, with  rather  more  pink  shading  in  its 
yellow  flowers  than  that  variety  and  slightly 
more  variable  in  colour.  Very  fine  in  the 
autumn  and  an  excellent  bedding  Rose.  Buds 
long  and  flowers  of  good  size  and  shape,  foliage 
forming  a  fine  contrast.  Not  recommended  as 
a  standard. 

Mrs.  Alfred  Tate  (S.  McGredy  and  Son,  1909). 
I  have  not  grown  this  Rose  ;  only  seen  it  growing 
in  its  home"at  Portadown.     There  it  was  a  Rose 


ROSE   GARDEN. 

NOTES   ON   NEWER   ROSES. 
X. — Hybrid  Teas. 


m 


(Continued  from  page  567.) 

ARICHU      ZAYAS 

(Soupert  et  Notting, 

1907).— A  big  flower 

that  promises  great 

things  in  the  bud, 

but  somehow  never 
fulfils   its  early  promise ;    reminiscent  of  Dan- 
mark  in  colour  and  shape.     It  has  disappointed 
me  this  year,  and  I  am  afraid  I  cannot  recom- 
mend it. 

Marquise  de  Sinety  (Pernet-Ducher,  1906). — A 
really  yellow  Rose  that  has  improved  very  much 
in  habit  of  growth  and  that  is  a  much  better 
grower  than  I  last  year  gave  it  credit  for.  It 
came  safely  through  the  winter,  too,  so  cannot  be 
so  tender  as  is  generally  stated.  It  is  the  deepest 
yellow  of  any  Rose  in  cultivation,  with  the 
possible  exception  of  Duchess  of  West- 
minster. It  will  occasionally  be  exhibited  if 
only  for  the  sake  of  lighting  up  the  box  ;  but  it 
is  a  garden  Rose,  and  in  the  South  will  become 
popular  as  a  bedder.  The  buds  are  splashed 
carmine-red  on  the  outside  of  the  petals,  and  in 
this  stage  it  makes  a  fine  button-hole  Rose.     I 


rose  lady  gay  in  a  north  LONDON  GARDEN. 

of  great  promise,  not  unlike  Betty  in  the  general 
formation  of  the  flower,  but  of  distinct  and 
generally  deeper  colouring.  A  good  flower  of  it 
is  very  long  in  the  petal,  with  a  fine  point.  The 
raisers  think  a  great  deal  of  it,  not  without 
cause,  as  it  is  very  free-flowering,  fragrant  and  a 
good  grower. 

Mrs.  Arthur  Munt  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons, 
1909).— The  raisers  have  never  been  able  to 
stage  this  Rose  in  anything  like  typical  form  for 
the  gold  medal  of  the  National  Rose  Society  ; 
but  many  fine  flowers  of  it  have  found  their 
way  into  their  boxes  of  exhibition  Roses,  and  it 
is  a  Rose  that,  under  a  number  and  not  a  name, 
was  well  known  to  me  and  always  enquired  for 
when  I  visited  Newtownards.  It  is  a  really 
good  Rose,  of  fine  form  and  shape  ;  the  colour 
is  pale  cream,  approaching  to  white  as  the  flower 


develops:  but  it  is  distinct  enough — that  is,  I 
know  no  other  Rose  quite  like  it.  It  is  a  good  bed- 
ding variety  as  well  as  useful  to  the  exhibitor,  and 
I  think  very  highly  of  it.  One  cannot  but  sym- 
pathise with  the  raisers  of  new  seedling  Roses 
when,  as  must  often  happen  on  the  day  (there  are 
only  two,  or  at  the  most  three,  in  the  whole  year 
when  they  can  put  up  an  exhibit  of  a  new  seed- 
ling for  the  gold  medal),  they  cannot  find  enough 
really  typical  flowers  of  the  variety  to  stage  it. 
Lady  Ashtown  was  a  case  in  point,  and  I  think 
Mrs.  Arthur  Munt  is  another.  Time  has  proved 
Lady  Ashtown  worthy  of  the  gold  medal.  Is  it 
impossible  for  the  National  Rose  Society  now  to 
award  it  ?  It  should  not  be.  Alteration  of 
existing  rules  might  be  necessary,  but  that  is 
not  difficult.  I  do  not  see  why,  because  a  Rose 
has  been  in  commerce,  say,  a  year  or  two,  it 
should  be  debarred.  There  should 
certainly  be  a  way  out  of  the  diffi« 
culty  if  one  exists. 

Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  (Pernet 
Dacher,  1907). — Very  pretty  in 
the  bud  stage,  when  there  is  plenty 
of  colour,  but  this  Rose  is  dis- 
tinctly on  the  small  side  and  opens 
out  into  a  flat  flower  with  very 
short  petals.  The  colour  is  dis- 
tinct ;  Indian  yellow  the  raisers 
term  it.  The  plant  is  free-flower- 
ing and,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  of  that 
habit  of  growth  the  catalogues 
also  term  free,  which,  being 
interpreted,  means  moderate. 
Altogether  I  am  afraid  I  must 
say  I  have  been  disappointed 
with  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  ;  perhaps 
it  will  improve  on  further 
acquaintance. 

Purhy.        H.  E.  Molyneux. 
{To  he  continued.) 

ROSE    LADY    GAY    IN    A 

HIGHGATE  GARDEN. 
Rose  Lady  Gay  was  introduced 
in  1903,  and  very  much  resembles 
Dorothy  Perkins.  It  differs  from 
the  latter  in  having  larger  flowers, 
and  they  are  also  of  a  richer 
rosy  hue.  Like  the  majority  of 
this  type  it  is  very  floriferous 
and  a  strong  grower.  The  plants 
shown  in  the  illustration  are 
growing  up  two  stout  Fir  poles, 
with  a  smaller  pole  secured  to 
the  tops  to  complete  the  arch. 
The  Roses  were  planted  three 
years  ago  last  spring.  Owing 
to  the  clusters  being  so  large 
and  heavy,  they  naturally  hung 
in  a  mass  too  close  to  the  poles 
for  the  photographer  to  get  the 
best  picture. 

In  addition  to  its  suitability  for 
covering  an  arch,  this  Rose  is 
well  adapted  for  pillars,  pergolas, 
trellis-work  or  for  weeping 
standards.  When  used  for  the 
last-named  purpose  it  should  be  budded  on  Briars 
at  least  5  feet  high,  or  more  if  they  can  be 
obtained,  as  its  long  growths  then  have  room  to 
show  their  beiuty  to  the  best  advantage. 
Highgate.  C.  T. 


HYBRID   TEA  ROSE   BETTY. 

This  is,  in  my  opinion,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
Roses  raised  of  recent  years,  in  spite  of  criticisms 
passed  upon  it,  but  it  is  strong  in  growth ;  and 
only  the  other  day  I  gathered  from  one  plant 
two  flowers  that  for  fragrance  and  freshness  of 
colouring — a  warm  pink  with  a  suspicion  of 
salmon  in  it — could  not  be  more  exquisite  even  in 
the  world  of  Roses.  Betty  is  a  beautiful  Rose 
with  a  pretty  name.  The  plant  was  in  a  fairly 
exposed  position  on  the  Surrey  Downs.      Rosa. 


580 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[November  27,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 


HOW    TO    REPOT    ORCHIDS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

THE  GREENHOUSE  AND  FRAMES. 
The  earliest  of  the  Roman  Hyacinths 
will  now  most  likely  be  showing  their 
flower-spikes,  and  a  few  may  even  be 
fully  opened.  These,  and  all  other 
bulbous  plants  in  full  growth,  will 
need  plenty  of  water,  and  if  allowed  to  suflfer 
for  the  want  of  this,  blind  plants  will  be  the  result. 


1. — AN  0D0NT0GL0S3nM  WHICH  HAS  FLOWBKED 
KECENTLY  AND  IS  NOW  MAKING  ITS 
NEW  GROWTH. 

Where  a  few  Duo  Van  Thol  Tulips  are  required 
extra  early,  the  pots  or  boxes  in  which  they  are 
growing  may  be  stood  quite  close  to  the  hot- 
water  pipes,  providing  the  plants  are  well 
watered,  and  this  will  quickly  force  out  the 
flowers,  after  which  they  may  be  stood  on  the 
stage  and  given  more  light,  this  inducing  the 
flowers  to  take  on  a  better  colour.  Protection 
in  the  form  of  thick  mats  must  now  be  afforded 
to  all  frames  containing  more  or  less  tender 
plants  and  which  are  not  artificially  heated.  In 
addition  it  is  a  good  plan  to  pack  a  foot  thick 
layer  of  Coooanut  fibre  refuse  or  even  short 
straw  round  the  sides  of  the  frame,  as  this  will 
keep  out  several  degrees  of  frost. 

Fruit  Garden. — Vines  in  cool  houses,  or  even 
those  grown  on  walls  outdoors,  will  \>y  now  have 
shed  their  leaves,  and  no  time  should  be  lost  in 
cleaning  and  pruning  the  rods  in  readiness 
for  another  season.  It  is  a  good  plan, 
especially  with  indoor  Vines,  to  untie  the 
rods  from  the  wires,  remove  all  really  loose 
bark,  but  do  not  forcibly  tear  any  away, 
wash  the  rods  and  all  woodwork  thoroughly 
with  hot  soapy  water,  and  then  do  the  pruning. 
This,  in  most  cases,  consists  of  cutting  back  all 
side  or  lateral  growths  to  within  two  buds  of 
their  base,  and  when  these  form  shoots  in  the 
spring  the  weakest  or  worst-placed  one  is  rubbed 
out,    thus    leaving    one    at    each    spur.     With 


young  newly  planted  Vines  the  leader  or  main 
shoot  will  need  to  be  shortened.  Unless  growth 
is  very  vigorous,  18  inches  of  new  wood  each 
year  until  the  available  space  has  been  filled 
will  be  enough  to  leave.  After  pruning  the 
rods  may  be  bent  down  to  the  lower  wire  in  the 
form  of  a  bow,  and  be  allowed  to  remain  thus 
until  growth  has  well  started  next  spring. 

Vegetable  Oarden.  — Where  not  already  done, 
the  Asparagus-bed  should  be  given  a  thorough 
cleansing,  cutting  down  all  dead  stems  and 
clearing  them  away  and  burning  them.  Then 
scrape  off  all  weeds,  and  if  they  are  of  an  annual 
character,  bury  them  in  the  alleys  or  paths  at 
either  side  of  the  bed,  i.e.,  where  these  are  of 
ordinary  soil  ;  but  where  the  paths  are  made  of 
gravel  or  other  hard  material,  the  weeds  must 
be  wheeled  away  and  buried  elsewhere.  A 
couple  of  inches  of  new,  clean  soil  may  be  spread 
on  the  surface  of  the  beds,  and  thus  make  them 
clean  and  tidy  for  the  winter.  The  question  of 
manuring  the  beds  at  this  season  is  a  moot 
one,  but,  generally  speaking,  it  is  better 
to  give  a  good  top-dressing  with  partially 
decayed  manure  early  in  February.  Advantage 
should  be  taken  of  frosty  weather  to  get  manure 
wheeled  on  to  any  vacant  plots  there  may  be, 
and  digging  and  trenching  should  be  attended  to 
on  every  possible  occasion. 

Rose  Oarden. — All  newly  planted  Roses,  and 
also  the  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas,  must  be  pro- 
tected against  frost  without  delay,  or  much  harm 
will  quickly  be  done.  The  most  simple  and 
effective  means  of  doing  the  work  is  to  heap  the 
soil  up  well  among  the  branches  of  bush  varie- 
ties, and  where  there  is  not  sufficient  soil  so  that 
the  w  ork  can  be  done  without  exposing  the  roots, 
some  finely  sifted  material  should  be  procured 
and  placed  among  the  branches  as  advised. 
Standards  should  have  their  branches  neatly  and 
closely  tied  into  a  bundle,  then  firmly  secured 
to  a  strong  stake,  and  some  Bracken,  old  wine- 
bottle,  cases  or  other  coarse,  strawy  material 
neatly  tied  around  the  whole,  so  that  there  is  no 
danger  of  it  being  blown  away  by  wind. 

The  Lawn. — When  frost  is  not  present  in  the 
soil,  the  lawn  should  have  attention  where  the 
turf  is  at  all  bare  or  where  the  surface  is  uneven. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  lift  all  poor  and  extra  thin 
turf,  well  fork  up  the  soil  beneath,  and  then 
relay  with  new,  close  turves,  finally  beating  the 
whole  down  firmly.  In  the  case  of  unlevel 
places,  the  turf  must  also  be  lifted,  the  soil 
forked  up  and  made  level  by  adding  or  taking 
away,  and  the  same  turves  returned  to  their 
places.  In  all  cases  it  is  absolutely  essential 
that  the  edges  of  the  turves  fit  closely  together. 
If  any  crevices  are  observed,  they  should  be 
promptly  filled  with  finely  sifted  soil  and  the 
whole  well  beaten  and  rolled.  H. 


HOW    AND    WHEN    TO    REPOT    AN 
ORCHID. 

When  to  repot  an  Orchid  has  been  a  stumbling- 
block  to  many  amateurs  who  cannot  procure 
expert  advice,  and  through  performing  this  im- 
portant operation  at  the  wrong  time  numerous 
plants  have  been  irretrievably  ruined,  or  at  least 
it  has  taken  two  or  three  seasons  before  they 
recuperated ;  and  who  knows  how  many  beginners 
have  been  disheartened  and  have  abandoned  one 
of  the  most  fascinating  branches  of  horticulture 
through  this  cause. 

Fig.  1  represents  a  specimen  of  Odontoglossum 
crispum  which  has  recently  flowered  from  the 
bulb  behind  the  leading  shoot  and  is  now  making 


its  new  growth,  from  the  base  of  which  roots 
could  be  seen  if  the  soil  was  removed.  It  is  at 
this  period  when  any  repotting  must  be  done, 
and  whether  it  be  a  Cattleya,  Laelia  or  Oncidium 
the  principle  is  the  same.  Always  wait  for  new 
roots  to  appear  at  the  bottom  of  the  current 
year's  growth  before  attempting  any  disturbance  ; 
then  they  quickly  take  to  the  fresh  soil  and  no 
harm  will  accrue.  Prior  to  repotting  withhold 
water  for  a  few  days,  after  which  the  plant  is 
carefully  taken  out  of  its  receptacle  and  some  of 
the  back  pseudo-bulbs  cut  away,  also  a  portion  of 
the  old  material  and  any  dead  roots. 

I  would  now  draw  attention  to  Figs.  2  and  3  ; 
the  first  shows  the  front  part  of  the  plant  and 
the  latter  the  back  bulbs.  Both  are  ready  to  be 
repotted.  When  moving  on  the  majority  of  sub- 
jects a  larger  pot  is  required,  but  with  Orchids 
this  is  not  always  necessary  ;  in  fact,  a  smaller 
size  is  sometimes  required,  and  in  the  present 
instance  they  would  go  into  a  similar  pot,  while 
the  leafless  bulbs  should  only  be  given  a  small 
amount  of  space  till  they  have  formed  a  growing 
point. 

Whatever  size  pot  is  needed,  it  ought  to  be 
filled  one-fourth  of  its  depth  with  drainage,  over 
which  is  placed  a  thin  layer  of  sphagnum  or  peat 
to  maintain  a  clear  passage  tor  water.  The 
plant  is  then  arranged  so  that  the  "  lead,"  or  new 
shoot,  is  as  near  the  centre  as  possible,  thus 
allowing  sufficient  room  for  two  seasons'  growth 
without  further  disturbance,  and  the  best  spikes 
of  flower  are   produced  from  the  second   bulb 


2. — THE   front  or   NEW  PORTION  OF  THE 
PLANT  READY  FOR  REPOTTING. 

when  the  plant  has  become  strongly  established. 
The  rooting  medium  consists  of  Osmunda  or 
Polypodium  fibre,  chopped  sphagnum  moss  and 
fibrous  peat  in  equal  parts,  with  a  sprinkling  of 
crushed  crocks  and  silver  sand  added,  or,  to  be 
more  exact,  a  6-inch  potful  to  every  bushel  of  the 
mixture.  When  preparing  the  compost  the 
Polypodium  and  Osmunda  should  be  out  into 
lengths  BO  that  it  will  pass  through  a  1-inch  sieve, 


November  27,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


581 


the  peat  pulled  into  pieoea  about  the  size  of  a 
Walnut,  and  the  sphagnum  ought  to  be  thoroughly 
examined  for  slugs  and  weeds  and  washed  before 
it  is  ready  for  use.  The  tools  needed  are  a  pair 
of  sharp  scissors,  to  neatly  trim  the  surface,  and 
a  stiff,  pointed  stick,  sometimes  called  a ' '  bedder, " 


3. — THE     BACK     PSEUDO-BOLBS      KEADY     FOR 
KBPOTTING. 

to  press  down  the  soil  as  the  potting  operation 
proceeds.  The  soil  must  be  oompressed 
moderately  firm  and  brought  nearly  level  with 
the  rim  of  the  pot,  and  just  before  completing  the 
operation  prick  in  a  few  living  heads  of  sphagnum 
over  the  surface,  so  that  in  time  the  top  of  the 
soil  will  be  covered  with  healthy-growing  moss, 
a  condition  that  Odontoglossums  appreciate,  for 
it  preserves  an  equable  state  of  moisture  about 
the  roots. 

Regarding  Fig.  3,  directly  the  plant  shown 
there  begins  to  root  freely  it  may  be  given  more 
pot  room  ;  but  unless  the  variety  is  a  valuable 
one,  and  it  is  desired  to  increase  the  stock,  this 
method  is  not  recommended,  because  freshly 
imported  or  semi-established  pieces  can  be  bought 
at  such  a  cheap  rate  that  they  are  not  worth  the 
time  and  trouble  it  takes  to  bring  them  to  the 
flowering  stage. 

Fig.  4  depicts  the  finished  plants,  and  for  the 
next  few  weeks  careful  watering  is  essential. 
The  soil  must  only  be  kept  just  moist,  and  when- 
ever any  doubt  exists  as  to  whether  water  is 
needed,  the  safest  plan  to  adopt  is  this :  Let  it 
stand  over  till  the  following  day,  but  as  growth 
advances  and  roots  begin  to  find  their  way  to  the 
edge  of  the  receptacle  the  supply  can  be  in- 
creased with  advantage  till  the  pseudo-bulb  is 
fully  matured.  Odontoglossums  need  no  rest- 
ing period,  as  applied  to  Calanthea,  ifec,  but 
they  are  benefited  by  being  kept  slightly  drier  at 
the  base  for  a  few  weeks  after  the  season's 
growth  has  finished.  A  temperature  of  50°  to 
65"  Fahr.  will  suit  0.  crispum  admirably,  both 
to  be  extremes,  so  the  happy  medium  should,  if 
possible,  be  the  rule.  Shade  them  from  direct 
sunlight  and  give  ample  ventilation  whenever 
the  weather  warrants  the  opening  of  the 
ventilators ;  in  fact,  a  little  air  may  be 
admitted  throughout  the  year,  providing  there 
are  no  direct  draughts  or  dry  currents  of 
air,  which  soon  take  up  the  atmospheric 
moisture,  a  cultural  detail  which  must  always 
be  observed.  The  house  will  require  vaporising 
occasionally  for  thrips  and  other  insect  pests, 
but  this  will  be  needed  less  frequent  if  the 
inmates  are  sprayed  overhead  every  alternate 
week  with  a  weak  solution  of  XL  All  Liquid 
Insecticide.  Sentinel. 

HINTS    ON    ROOT-PRUNING    FRUIT 
TREES. 

A  FRUIT  tree  must  not  be  root-pruned  unless  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  that  it  should  be  done. 
If  a  tree  makes  pretty  strong  growth  and  the 
latter  ripens  and  bears  good  crops  of  fruit,  then 


root-pruning  would  be  a  mistake,  as  the  result  of 
such  pruning  would  be  to  cause  a  stunted  growth 
generally. 

Root-pruning  is  absolutely  necessary  when  a 
young  specimen  continues  to  make  still  stronger 
growth  from  year  to  year,  and  which  does  not 
ripen  nor  bear  fruit.  Again,  when  a  young  tree 
has  been  very  severely  branch-pruned,  and 
this  has  caused  a  too  strong  growth  to  follow 
which  has  not  thoroughly  matured,  root-pruning 
is  essential.  Very  severe  branch-pruning  causes 
a  mop-like  growth  of  sappy  shoots  which  will 
not  be  serviceable,  and  the  only  thing  to  do  then 
is  to  create  a  balance  between  branch  and  root 
growth.  This  is  done  by  exposing  the  roots,  as 
described  below,  and  the  reduction  of  their  dimen- 
sions. The  principles  of  root-pruning  are  the 
restriction  of  the  size  of  the  large  roots  by 
cutting  them  back,  and  so  causing  the  new 
growths  from  them  to  be  fibrous,  and  the  pre- 
servation of  all  existing  fibrous  roots.  The 
longer  the  large,  fibreless  roots  grow,  the  more 
rampant  the  branch  growth  is  ;  the  more  fibrous 
the  roots  are,  the  better  will  the  branches  ripen 
and  bear  flower-buds  and,  finally,  a  full  crop  of 
fruit.  When  the  trees  are  once  brought  to  this 
condition,  they  remain  fruitful  without  further 
pruning  of  the  roots,  the  annual  crops  preventing 
a  too  luxuriant  production  of  branches. 

Example :  A  tree  with  a  stem  3  inches  in 
diameter  must  have  a  trench  opened  3  feet 
6  inches  from  it.  All  large  roots  must  be  cut  off, 
fibrous  ones  retained,  and  the  trench  must  be 
refilled  with  good,  gritty  loam,  mixed  with  the 
original  soil,  and  made  firm.  Shamrock. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 

Plahting  Shrubs. — The  present  is  a  very  good 
time  to  plant  various  kinds  of  shrubs,  both  in 
the  boundary  borders  as  well  as  isolated  ones  on 
the  lawn.  As  a  rule,  very  nice  specimens  are 
selected  for  planting  in  positions  by  themselves, 
and  this  is  quite  the  right  thing  to  do  ;  but  why 
not  plant  equally  fine  specimens  in  the  side  or 
boundary  border?  A  shrub,  wherever  planted, 
should  form  an  attractive  object,  but  in  putting 
them  in  certain  borders  the  chief  object  seems  to 
be  merely  the  filling  up  of  the  space.  The 
border  is  filled  to  overflowing,  and  then  one 
specimen  spoils  another,  so  that  the  border 
quickly  resembles  a  miniature  jungle.  When  it 
is  intended  to  plant  shrubs  and  trees  in  a  new 
garden,  oare  must  be  taken  not  to  place  any 
specimens  in  certain  positions  where  they  will 
block  views  from  the  dwelling-house  windows. 
If  shrubs  are  judiciously  placed  they  will  not 
only  prove  an  ornament,  but  also  give  to  the 
whole  garden  the  appearance  of  beiug  larger 
than  it  really  is.  Of  course,  at  first  shrubs  must 
be  put  in  to  fill  up — that  is,  to  give  a  furnished 
effect  immediately — but  all  the  permanent  speci- 
mens must  be  planted  first  sufficiently  far  away 
from  paths  and  the  edges  of  borders  as  to  allow 
ample  space  for  full  development,  without  the 
necessity  for  cutting  back  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
spoil  the  general  form  and  appearance  of  the 
shrubs  planted. 

How  TO  Plant  the  Shrubs. — Shrubs  may 
thrive  for  a  short  time  in  a  shallow  soil  which 
has  not  been  trenched,  but  they  will  fail  lament- 
ably after  the  lapse  of  a  few  years.  It  is  much 
the  best  policy  to  spend  a  little  extra  money  at 
first  in  the  trenching  of  the  soil  than,  later  on,  in 
the  purchase  of  fresh  plants  to  replace  unsatis- 
factory ones,  which,  in  turn,  will  fail  too.  The 
natural  soil  in  some  town  gardens  is  of  very  good 
quality,  and  it  only  needs  trenching  and  the 
addition  of  a  little  well-rotted  manure.  Poor 
soil,  too,  must  be  trenched,  and  it  is  certainly 
advisable  to  add  rotted  manure  liberally. 
Having  trenched  the  soil,  proceed  with  the 
planting  of  the  shrubs.  In  distant  borders, 
where  a  boundary  screen  is  required,  the 
common  Laurel    may  be  planted;     it  quickly 


grows,  and  will  do  well  when  established  if  hard 
pruning  be  necessary.  Make  all  holes  several 
inches  wider  than  the  roots  of  the  shrubs  that 
are  to  be  placed  in  them  ;  do  not  make  very 
deep  holes,  but  replant  the  specimens  just  the 
same  depth  that  they  were  when  growing  in  the 
nursery.  Usually  there  is  a  mark  on  the  stem 
made  by  the  soil,  which  will  be  a  guide  as  to  the 
depth  to  plant.  The  work  should  be  done,  if 
possible,  when  the  soil  is  comparatively  dry 
and  in  good  working  order,  as  it  is  essential 
that  the  soil  be  made  moderately  firm  around  the 
roots. 

Some  Suitable  Kinds. — For  planting  in  deep 
shade :  Aucuba  japonica,  Cotoneaster  micro- 
phylla  and  Berberis  Aquifolium.  For  planting  in 
partial  shade  :  Rhododendrons,  Azaleas,  Euony- 
muses,  Laurustinuses,  Hollies,  Andromedas, 
Deutzias  and  Veronicas.  For  planting  in  the 
open  quarters  all  the  above-mentioned  kinds  may 
be  used  and,  in  fact,  nearly  all  kinds  of  ever- 
green and  deciduous  kinds  generally.  Beautiful 
flowering  kinds  are  the  following :  Azaleas, 
Deutzias,  Laburnums,  Forsythias,  Lilacs,  Vibur- 
nums, Ribes,  Philadelphus  (Mock  Orange), 
Rhododendrons,  Andromeda  floribunda.  Daphne 
Mezereum  and  Almonds. 

Tying  Climbing  Plants. — No  doubt  the 
recent  rough  weather  has  broken  away  many 
branches  of  climbing  plants  from  the  walls, 
pillars,  posts  and  trellises,  and  any  delay  in 
making  them  secure  again  will  make  matters 
worse  than  they  are.  There  are  many  shoots  of 
Ivy,  Ampelopsis,  Clematis  and  Honeysuckle 
plants  that  must  not  be  retied  to  their  supports, 
because  these  particular  shoots  would  be  worth- 
less on  account  of  immaturity  of  wood  and 
because  they  would  not  again  cling  to  the  walls. 
Of  course,  it  is  a  different  matter  where  such 
plants  are  trained  to  pillars  and  trellises,  as  the 
shoots  are  held  in  position  by  means  of  tying 
material  and  not  on  account  of  self-clinging 
propensities.  The  tendency  is  to  use  matting  or 
raffia  as  a  tying  material.  For  the  main  tying 
of  the  principal  branches  at  this  season  tarred 
twine  is  much  the  best  to  use.  It  will  last  for  a 
long  time,  whereas  the  raffia  will  not,  and  is 
only  suitable  for  the  tying  up  of  summer  shoots, 
many  of  which  must  be  pruned  away  at  the  end 
of  the  season.  Avon. 


-THE  TWO  PORTIONS  AETER  REPOTTING    HAS 
BEEN  COMPLETED. 


582 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[November  27,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF    THE 
WEEK. 

FOR   THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower     Garden. 

ROSE  S . — When  the  weather  is  favour- 
able push  along  with  the  planting 
of  Roses.  See  that  the  drainage  is 
good  and  thoroughly  work  the  soil  to 
a  good  depth ;  if  the  land  is  heavy  and 
wet,  arrange  3inoh  drain-pipes  to 
conduct  the  water  to  a  suitable  outlet,  and  at  the 
bottom  of  each  bed  place  a  good  layer  of  old 
broken  bricks  or  clinkers.  Trim  the  damiged 
ends  of  the  roots  before  planting  and  scatter  a 
little  finely  sifted  soil  about  the  roots  of  each 
plant.  Make  the  soil  moderately  firm  and  place 
a  good  mulch  of  leaf-mould  close  to  the  stems  of 
all  tender  varieties  as  a  protection  against  frost. 

Herbiceous  Borders. — Planting  and  rearrang- 
ing may  still  be  pushed  forward.  Many  herba- 
ceous plants  require  a  shift  at  times  to  maintain 
vigour  and  strength.  Young  plants  springing 
up  from  the  base  of  the  old  ones,  if  lifted  carefully 
and  planted  at  once,  make  good  flowering  plants 
the  following  year,  and  should  be  attended  to. 

Roi-lceries. — Go  over  these  and  remove  fallen 
leaves  and  rubbish  to  prevent  damping  and  rotting 
of  the  more  tender  species.  In  mild  weather 
some  of  the  more  common  plants  may  be  carefully 
removed  to  give  room  and  air  to  the  more  choice 
and  valuable  kinds,  taking  care  to  fill  up  the 
places  at  once  with  suitable  soil,  and  thus 
encourage  the  growth  of  the  remaining  plants. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Bush  Trees. — Where  room  is  not  too  plentiful, 
this  method  of  growing  both  Apples  and  Pears 
will  prove  useful.  Select  good  varieties,  and  do 
not  plant  the  young  trees  too  closely  ;  a  space  of 
12  feet  should  be  a,llowed  between  the  trees,  so 
that  plenty  of  light  and  air  ein  circulate  freely 
among  the  branches  when  in  a  bearing  stage,  and 
6  feet  from  the  edge  of  the  paths  is  quite  near 
enough  to  plant.  Fruit  trees  are  more  frequently 
than  otherwise  planted  too  closely,  and  as  the 
trees  increase  in  size  they  soon  get  too  crowded 
to  be  fruitful.  Keep  the  branches  of  all  trees  of 
fruiting  size  well  thinned  ;  prune  side  shoots  rather 
close,  also  the  leaders  if  they  have  reached  the 
size  required.  Prune  the  leaders  of  young  trees 
back  to  within  12  inches  to  15  inches  of  the 
previous  year's  wood,  always  cutting  to  a  bud 
pointing  in  the  direction  the  following  season's 
growth  is  required  to  take.  A  few  good  Apples 
to  plant  are  :  Dessert — Lady  Sudeley,  Worcester 
Pearmain,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin,  Wyken  Pippin, 
Lord  Burghley,  Duke  of  Devonshire  and  King  of 
the  Pippins.  Cooking — Lord  Derby,  Warner's 
King,  Ecklinville  Seedling,  Lane's  Prince  Albert, 
Bramley's  Seedling,  Peasgood's  Nonsuch,  Old 
Round  Winter  Nonsuch  and  Norfolk  Beaufin. 
Pears — Williams',  Beurr^  d'Amanlis,  Doyenne  du 
Cornice,  Beurr^  Superfin,  Beurr^  Hardy,  Marie 
Louise,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  Nouvelle  Fulvie, 
Marguerite  Marillat,  Conference,  Josephine  de 
Malines,  Pitmaston  Duchess  and  Durondeau. 
Kitchen  Garden. 

Take  up  Tarragon  and  Mint,  place  the  roots  in 
shallow  boxes  filled  with  a  light  leafy  soiland  stand 
them  in  a  slight  warmth  ;  also  take  up  Chicory 
roots  and  plant  several  in  large-sized  pots  and 
stand  them  in  a  dark  position  to  bleach  the  new 
growth,  which  is  so  useful  in  winter  for  salads. 
Mustard  and  Cress  must  be  sown  at  intervals  to 
meet  the  demand.  Keep  taking  up  any  late 
Cauliflowers  and  autumn  Broccoli  whenever  the 
curds  are  of  suitable  size,  and  bed  the  roots  in 
the  soil  in  a  suitable  out-of-the-way  place,  where, 
if  needed,  protection  can  be  easily  applied,  and 
thus  prolong  the  season  supplj'. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham,  Park  Gardens,  Barnet. 


FOR    THE    NORTH    AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Indoor  Fruit  Department. 
Vineries. — To  retain  the  remnant  of  a  crop 
unduly  long  upon  the  Vines  tends  to  unnecessary 
exhaustion  as  well  as  a  loss  of  much-needed 
space  for  flowering  and  bedding  plants,  which 
may  possibly  be  too  thickly  placed  in  other 
houses  ;  moreover,  the  border  may  have  become 
dry,  and  a  thorough  application  of  water  before  the 
foliage  loses  its  vitality  would  be  beneficial.  It 
aproperly  constructedGrape-room  is  non-existent, 
any  dry  structure  that  can  be  kept  at  a  fairly 
equable  temperature  may,  without  much  trouble 
and  cost,  be  fitted  with  shelf-like  arrangements 
that  will  hold  ordinary  glass  bottles  at  an  angle 
which,  when  nearly  filled  with  water  and  the 
stems  inserted,  allow  the  bunches  to  hang  clear. 

Early  Vinery. —The  Vines  having  been  at  rest 
for  some  time  may  now  be  pruned  and  cleaned, 
the  woodwork  and  glass  of  the  house  also  being 
well  washed,  and  all  be  got  in  readiness  for  start- 
ing into  growth  very  shortly.  If  the  roots  have 
the  run  of  an  outside  border,  this  should  be  pro- 
tected from  the  elements  by  having  a  few  inches 
in  thickness  of  leaves  and  litter  placed  thereon. 
If  renovation  is  decided  upon,  the  surface  soil  may 
be  carefully  removed  with  a  fork  until  the  roots 
are  exposed,  replacing  this  with  fresh,  well-broken 
turf  with  which  is  mixed  bone-meal,  lime  rubble 
and  wood-ashes,  according  to  the  requirements  of 
the  case. 

Peaches  anrl  Nectarines. — The  earliest  of  these 
will  now  have  shed  their  leaves,  and  pruning, 
cleansing  and  training  in  readiness  for  a  renewal 
of  growth  affords  comfortable  work  in  bad 
weather.  Should  insect  pests,  but  more  particu- 
larly scale,  have  gained  a  footing,  means  should  be 
taken  for  their  eradication.  The  last-mentioned 
is  very  persistent,  and  the  application  of  insecti- 
cides suiEoiently  strong  to  destroy  it  would 
probably  have  a  bad  effect  upon  the  trees.  The 
more  prominent  are  easily  removed  from  the 
branches  by  the  aid  of  a  piece  of  soft  wood  ; 
afterwards  a  strong  solution  of  Gishurst  Com- 
pound applied  to  the  stem  and  main  branches 
with  a  stiff  brush  would  effect  a  riddance. 
Manure,  bone-meal  or  superphosphate  of  lime  are 
both  good  and  safe  as  slow-acting  nutriments  for 
the  Peach  family,  and  either  spread  over  the 
border  at  the  rate  of  from  4oz.  to  6oz.  the  square 
yard  and  pointed  under  are  preferred  to  others 
of  greater  potency. 

Hardy  Fruit  Department. 

Pruniny  of  Bush  Fruits  may  now  be  carried 
out  as  the  foliage  falls.  Currants  and  Gooseberries 
being  first  in  this  respect.  To  commence,  clear 
the  centre  of  the  plants  of  all  crossing  shoots, 
cutting  these  quite  close  at  the  base,  afterwards 
making  the  plants  as  shapely  as  possible  by 
reducing  growths  where  too  vigorous  and  thin- 
ning others  until  an  even  spread  of  bearing  wood 
is  presented  all  round.  Spur-pruning  is  less 
practised  than  formerly  ;  instead,  a  sufficiency 
of  the  current  year's  shoots  are  left  at  full  length, 
most  of  the  remainder  being  closely  severed. 
Black  Currants. — In  pruning  these  a  good  pro- 
portion of  the  older  branches  should  be  cut  away 
to  make  room  for  others  more  young  and 
vigorous. 

Kitchen  Garden. 

Forcing  Vegetables. — Where  home-grown  pro- 
duce is  exclusively  relied  upon,  it  is  useless  to 
start  forcing  too  early— that  is,  not  until  the 
foliage  has  died  naturally  from  off  the  plants. 

Rhubarb.  — This  is  a  favourite  dish  at  Christmas, 
to  obtain  which  the  roots  are  best  carefully 
raised  and  allowed  to  remain  exposed  to  the 
weather  for  a  week  or  more.  On  being  placed 
in  heat,  as  beneath  the  stage  of  a  plant-house 
where  a  temperature  of  about  60°  is  maintained, 
or  some  improvised  system  whereby  fermenting 
manure  supplies  the  necessary  warmth,  growth 
speedily  follows.        James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eacharn.) 

Oalloway  House,  OarliesUm,  Wigtoumshire. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOB    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Anstfrora.— The  Editor  intendt 
to  make  The  Garden  help/ul  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  ivill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  vrritten  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  to,  Tamstock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
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The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Bopdep  of  pepennials  {J.  (?.).— You 

have  not  stated  the  width  of  the  border,  which 
is  an  important  matter  when  selections  of  plants 
are  required,  and  without  this  it  would  be  risky 
to  make  a  selection.  Your  better  plan  would  be 
to  give  these  particulars  to  some  of  the  hardy 
plant  dealers,  telling  them  the  amount  of  money 
you  would  care  to  expend,  and  ask  them  to  send 
you  a  suitable  selection.  If  you  make  a  selection 
yourself  you  cannot  err  if  you  include  single  and 
double  Pyrethrums,  Flag  Irises,  Spanish  Irises, 
Carnations,  Gaillardias,  Globe  Flowers,  hybrid 
Columbines,  Campanulas,  Alstrcemerias,  Lark- 
spurs, Coreopsis,  Marguerites  and  Michaelmas 
Daisies  among  other  things,  and  these,  with 
Liliums,  Daffodils  and  the  like,  would  afford  you 
a  long  season.  If  the  border  is  of  good  width, 
i.e.,  8  feet  or  12  feet,  there  will  be  room  for 
Hollyhocks,  Heleniums,  Sunflowers,  Kniphofias, 
Day  Lilies,  and  the  taller  Larkspurs  among 
others. 

Gpowlngr   Nymphseas  In  tubs 

{Water  Lily). — This  is  a  very  convenient  and 
attractive  way  of  growing  Nymphajis  when 
ponds  or  streams  are  not  available.  Many  of  the 
smaller  kinds  may  be  grown  with  success  in  this 
manner  and  will  produce  flowers  freely.  In 
selecting  a  place  for  sinking  the  tubs  a  piece  of 
ground  that  slopes  slightly  should  be  chosen,  so 
that  when  in  position  each  tub,  starting  from  the 
top,  would  be  rather  lower  than  the  other.  They 
might  then  be  connected  together  with  pipes,  so 
that  when  the  tub  on  the  highest  level  is  filled 
it  would  overflow  by  means  of  the  pipes  into  the 
others  below.  The  tubs  should  be  18  inches  or 
2  feet  in  depth,  and  if  watertight  will  not  require 
cementing.  In  the  bottom  of  the  tubs  put  a  few 
broken  bricks,  then  a  layer  of  well-decayed  cow- 
manure,  and  fill  up  to  within  a  foot  of  the  top 
with  a  mixture  of  three  parts  loam  and  one  part 
sand.  There  ought  to  be  a  depth  of  9  inches 
to  1  foot  of  water.  The  Nymph^as  may  be 
planted  in  April,  although  May  is  perhaps  the 
best  month.  Small-growing  kinds  are  N.  odorata 
alba,  N.  o.  minor  and  N.  pygmsei,  all  with 
white  flowers.  Among  the  pink  or  rose  coloured 
kinds  are  N.  Laydekeri,  N.  odorata  Exquisita 
and  N.  o.  rosea.  Others  with  red  or  crimson 
flowers  are  N.  Laydekeri  fulgens  and  N.  L. 
lilacea.  Yellow-flowered  ones  are  N.  odorata 
sulphurea  and  N.  pygmsea  var.  helvola. 

Pseonies,  ana  other  queries  (Pau).— Herba- 
ceous Pffionies  require  a  great  depth  of  very  rich  soil  and  to 
be  planted  in  autumn,  and,  given  this,  will  not  be  likely  to 
fail.  While  not  growing  well  under  trees,  they  are  by  no 
means  fastidious  as  to  position.  Water  in  plenty  is  of 
importance  in  dry  weather,  and  the  plants  will  then  grow 
apace.  We  do  not  call  the  variety  Sims  Reeves  to  mind, 
and  we  think  you  had  better  refer  to  the  gardener  who 
sold  you  the  plants.  The  chief  difference  between  the 
common  Wistaria  sinensis  and  its  .Japanese  relative,  W. 
multijuga,  is  the  great  length  of  the  latter's  flowering 
racemes.  In  colour  the  two  are  not  widely  dissimilar,  but 
in  form  the  Japanese  kind  is  less  full  and  decidedly  more 
tapering,  while  its  pendent,  attenuated  racemes  will 
freijaeutly  extend  from  2  feet  to  3  feet  in  length.  It  is 
just  as  hardy  as  the  better-known  form,  though  the  plant 
Is  by  no  means  plentiful  or  even  at  the  present  time  a 
well-known  subject.- 


November  27,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


S8g 


VIoiets,  and  othep  questions  (F.  B.^—We 
can,  of  course,  only  surmise  irom  your  description  that 
the  Violet  was  the  old  Russian  Czar,  uuleas,  indeed,  it 
was  the  common  wild  species,  which,  probably,  you  would 
have  known.  Your  Red-hot  Poker  Plant  may  certainly 
be  divided  if  too  large  for  you,  but  the  month  of  March  or 
April  would  be  a  better  time  than  the  opening  days  of 
winter.  Yes ;  the  Fire  Thorn  prefers  a  wall  to  grow 
upon,  and  is  quite  hardy  in  the  majority  of  gardens. 
Avoid  too  rich  a  soil,  and  apply  gravel  or  sand  to  a  soil 
that  is  heavy  and  cold.  Anemones  of  the  tuberous-rooted 
set  grow  quite  well  in  light  and  warm,  well-drained  soils 
in  open  situations.  The  Japanese  Anemones  in  your 
district  should  succeed  admirably  as  border  plants  any- 
where, except  within  the  reach  of  tree  roots  and  the  shade 
of  trees.  These  plants  are  slow  to  become  established  in 
certain  localities,  but  remain  good  for  many  years  once 
the  plants  have  taken  hold  of  the  soil. 

Seedling  Gladioli  (W.  //nms).— There  must  be 
no  enforced  ripening  off  of  the  seedlings,  and  the  growth 
should  be  kept  goin?:  as  long  as  possible,  to  the  benefit  of 
the  bulbs.  April  sowing  was  much  too  late,  and  January 
would  have  been  much  better.  Tliese  early  sowings  afford 
the  young  plants  the  best  opportunity  for  making  a  full 
season's  growth,  and  in  this  way  large  bulbs  are  secured 
in  the  flrat  year.  If  you  have  kept  the  young  plants  to 
the  seedling  pots,  they  may,  when  fully  matured,  be  kept 
in  them  for  the  winter,  the  soil  being  quite  dry.  A  far 
greater  headway  would  liave  been  made  by  planting  in 
the  open.  Primula  japonica  is  quite  hardy,  and  the  seed- 
lings to  have  now  only  "two  little  leaves"  must  be  the 
result  of  very  late  seed-sowing.  You  evidently  lose  much 
time  in  sowing  everything  very  late.  The  Primula  seedlings 
cannot  possibly  flower  in  spring,  tlieir  flowering  depend- 
ing upon  the  developed  growth  of  a  season.  By  pricking 
tbem  out  in  a  frame  they  would  have  a  longer  period 
before  them  to  continue  growth  before  being  checked  by 
severe  weather. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

CllmtaBPS  for  nopthern  window 

(RocTcville,  Inverness). — The  following  Rosea  and 
Clematises  will  be  suitable  for  your  purpose  ; 
Rose  Cheshuut  Hybrid  (climbing)  and  Clematis 
Jackmanii  alba,  Rose  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison 
and  Clematis  Mme.  Edouard  Andre,  Rose  Tea 
Rambler  and  Clematis  Anderson  Henryii.  If 
you  do  nob  require  all  the  Roses  and  Clematises 
to  flower  together,  you  might  substitute  one  of 
the  varieties  with  Clematis  montana  rubens. 
This  is  a  delightful  free-flowering  form  of  the  old 
C.  montana,  with  reddish  flowers  which  appear 
in  May  and  June. 

CUmbeps  fop  perg'ola  (J.  P.).— If  some  manure 
and  better  soil  can  be  added  to  the  ground,  which  you  say 
is  of  poor  quality,  the  following  climbers  will  be  found 
suitable  for  your  pergola  :  Clematis  montana,  C.  montana 
rubens,  C.  alpina,  C.  Viticella,  C.  Jackmanii  superba,  C.  J. 
alba,  C.  J.  Mme.  Edouard  Andre,  C.  Lord  Neville,  C. 
Anderson  Henryii,  C.  Flammula,  C.  Flammula  rubro- 
marginata,  C.  The  Bride ;  Honeysuckles  as  follows : 
LoDicera  japonica,  L.  j.  halleana,  L.  Periclymenum,  L. 
Heckrottii,  L.  tragophylla,  L.  sempervirens  ;  Jasminum 
nudifiorum,  J. officinalis;  Vines:  Vitia  Coigneti£e,V. armata 
Veitchli,  V.  megalophylla,  V.  leeoides,  V.  Thomsonii; 
Loganberry,  Lowberry,  Rubus  laciniatus,  R.  phcenicolasius, 
R.  bambusarum  ;  Wistaria  chinensis,  W.  multijuga  and  the 
variety  alba,  Aristolochia  Sipho,  Celastrus  articulatus, 
Actinidia  chinensis,  Tecoma  radicans,  T.  grandiflora, 
Forsythia  suspensa,  Akebia  quinata  and  A.  lobata.  If  the 
ground  is  well  worked  IJ  feet  to  2  feet  deep  for  a  space  of 
5  feet  or  6  feet  round  about  where  the  plants  are  to  grew, 
and  enriched  with  well-rotted  manure  placed  so  that  it 
will  not  come  in  direct  contact  with  the  roots  at  the  time  of 
planting,  all  the  subjects  mentioned  will  thrive.  If  any 
soil  of  richer  quality  is  available,  a  few  barrow-loads  to 
each  plant  would  do  good.  In  addition  to  the  Loganberry 
and  the  hybrid  from  that  called  the  Lowberry,  both  Rubus 
laciniatus  and  R.  phffinicolasius,  the  latter  sometimes 
called  the  Japanese  Wineberry,  bear  edible  fruit. 


bottom,  but  not  necessarily  the  door.  A  little 
air  should  be  left  on  all  night,  top  and  bottom. 
Of  course,  in  cold  weather  less  air  is  required, 
but  the  house  should  never  be  shut  up  while 
there  are  ripe  Grapes  in  it.  If  you  can  have  a 
little  heat  in  the  pipes  day  and  night  it  would 
greatly  help  the  ripening  process. 

Apples  diseased  (Miss  F.  S.).— The 
Apples  are  attacked  by  the  fungus  Fusieladius 
dendriticum,  causing  the  disease  known  as  Apple 
scab.  All  the  dead  and  dying  shoots  should  be 
carefully  pruned  out  of  the  trees,  and  they  should 
be  sprayed  just  after  the  petals  fall  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  of  half  the  usual  strength,  and 
again  about  three  weeks  afterwards. 

Small  brown  specks  appeapingr 
on  Grapes  about  to  pipen  {Beatrice 
Gardner). — The  damp,  sunless,  cold  summers  of 
last  year  and  of  this  must  be  held  responsible 
for  the  injury  to  your  Grapes  by  a  malady  which 
is  commonly  known  among  Grape-growers  as 
damping.  It  is  caused  by  the  air  of  the  vinery 
being  too  cold  and  damp  for  too  long  a  time 
together.  Had  you  been  able  to  have  applied  a 
little  warmth  to  the  vinery  by  means  of  hot- 
water  pipes  during  the  coldest  and  dampest  days 
and  nights,  the  damage  would  not  have  happened. 
The  remedy  lies  in  the  provision  of  a  small  boiler 
with  a  flow  and  return  4-inch  hot-water  pipe 
fixed  round  the  vinery,  to  be  used  under  similar 
conditions  should  they  recur. 

Apple  leaves  diseased  (£is)/ia)A).— The  damage 
to  your  Apple  leaves  has  been  caused  by  a  fungus. 
Had  your  trees  been  in  robust  health  the  chances 
are  that  the  fungus  would  not  have  attacked  them. 
Indifferent  health  always  predisposes  fruit  trees  to  the 
attack  of  insects  and  fungoid  growths.  Therefore, 
the  first  thing  you  have  to  do  is  to  try  and  bring  back  to 
good  health  your  young  trees.  The  way  to  do  this  is  to 
lift  them  out  of  the  ground  and  replant  again,  adding  a 
liberal  quantity  of  turfy  loam  to  the  roots  of  each  tree 
and  planting  firmly.  Before  replanting  prune  your  tree 
and  burn  the  prunings,  and  also  take  away  an  inch  or 
2  inches  of  the  siuface  soil  under  the  tree,  in  case  there 
may  be  any  of  the  spawn  of  the  fungus  left.  Also,  before 
lifting,  spray  the  tree  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  This  will 
kill  any  fungus  there  may  be  on  the  trees. 


By  a  *'  seedy  head  "  in  Dahlias  we  presume  you  mean  one 
with  an  open  centre.  Many  old  varieties  will  always  pro- 
duce some  such  flowers,  and  we  do  not  know  of  any 
treatment  that  will  prevent  it  except  less  manure  in  the 
soil. 

Names    of   fpuit.— ii".    G.    TT.— Lord    Derby. 

P.  S.  F.  T.,  Lotcer  Swell.-  1,  Cornish  Gilliflower  ;  2,  King 
of  the  Pippins  ;  3,  Lemon  Pippin  ;  4,  New  Hawthornden  ; 
5,  Emperor  Alexander  ;  6,  Tower  of  Slamis. A.  P.  P.— 

2,  Round  Winter  Nonsuch ;  8,  Wellington. W.  Andrews. 

—1,  St.  Luke ;  2,  AUington  Pippin  ;  3,  Tom  Putt. 

Names   of    plants.— Poi/nfiy!eW.—Tolmiea  Men- 

ziesii. Colom'l     Fetherstonhaugh. — Rhus     Cotinus. 

J.  Goodwin.~ly  Adiantum  formosum  ;  2,  send  in  flower ; 

3.  Erigeron  multiradiatus  :  4,  Juniperus  chinensis ;  5, 
Berberis  Wallichii ;    8,    Helxine    Solierolii ;     7,    Thuya 

plicata;    8,    Plcea    excelsa. W.    R.    P.—l,    Berberis 

Wallichii ;  2,  Myrtua  communis  ;  3,  .Salvia  Grahamii ;  4, 
Spirsea  species  ;  5,  Acer  palmatum  ;  6,  Eljeagnua  pungens 
variegatus  ;  7,  Berberis  Darwinii ;  s,  Arundinaria  Fortunei ; 
9,  Crriselinia  littoralis ;  10,  Euonymus  japonicus  varie- 
gatus ;  11,  Fuchsia  macrostemma  ;  12,  Caryopteris  Masta- 
cantha ;  13,  Crataegus  species ;  14,  Aster  Amellus ;  15, 
Phillyrea  angustifolla ;  16,  Jasminum  officinale  ;  17,  J. 
hamUe. 


SOCIETIES. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 
Black  HambuPirli  Grapes  in  bad 

condition  {Miss  Cox).  —  Judging  by  the 
appearance  of  the  sample  Grapes  sent,  the  foliage, 
as  well  as  the  fruit,  of  your  Vines  must  be  eaten 
up  with  red  spider.  That,  combined  with  the 
cutting  off  of  the  large  leaves  some  time  ago  and 
insufficient  air,  we  think,  must  be  responsible  for 
the  very  deplorable  condition  your  Grapes  are 
in.  We  are  afraid  that  nothing  can  be  done  this 
season  to  help  to  further  ripen  or  improve  the 
quality  of  your  Grapes,  but  you  might  try  and 
do  so  by,  in  the  first  place,  fumigating  the 
vinery  with  XL  All  Fumigator,  which  you  can 
obtain  from  any  seed  merchant  advertising  with 
us.  This  would  destroy  the  spider.  You  should 
ventilate  freely  while  the  weather  is  fine  in  the  I 
daytime,    opening    the     lights    wide    top    and  I 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

Celepiao  for  inspection  {ff.  E.  8.).— 
The  injury  to  the  bulbs  ot  the  Oeleriac  is  due  to 
the  larvse  of  the  Carrot  fly,  which  has  burrowed 
into  the  flesh.  Sand  or  ashes  impregnated  with 
paraffin  should  be  scattered  along  the  rows  of  the 
plants  soon  after  they  are  planted  to  prevent  the 
flies  laying  their  eggs,  and  the  soil  should  be 
made  as  firm  as  possible  around  the  plants  with 
the  same  object.  As  the  pupae  are  formed  in  the 
earth,  it  is  well  to  bury  that  which  has  been 
round  the  plants  as  deeply  as  possible,  and  to 
avoid  growing  the  crop  on  the  same  ground 
without  an  interval  of  three  or  four  years. 

Hov7  to  get  pid  of  catepplUaps  on  W^lntep 
Opeens  {J.  C.).— Tdere  is  uothiDg  be*;ter  than  aoot  and 
quicklime  applied  in  a  dry  state  to  tlie  plants,  smothering 
the  leaves  and  stems  completely  over  with  it  top  and 
bottom.  This  will  fetch  them  off,  when  they  should  be 
collected  and  burnt.  The  rains  will  wash  this  off  in  time, 
the  plants  be  none  the  worse  and  the  ground  all  the 
better  for  the  dressing  of  lime  and  soot. 

Potato  to  name  (J.  J!/.).— The  kidney-shaped  white 
Potato  sent  bears  tbe  closest  possible  resemblance  to 
Sir  John  Llewelyn,  a  very  early  and  exceedingly  produc- 
tive kidney.  All  the  same,  we  cannot  guarantee  from 
such  tubers  any  absolutely  certain  name,  seeing  that  not 
only  are  there  several  other  varieties  very  similar  in 
appearance,  but  varieties  in  the  shape  and  character  of 
these  tubers  vary  very  much  in  diverse  soils.  As  to 
whether  the  variety  is  an  early  one  or  not,  should  our 
surmise  as  to  its  identity  be  correct,  of  course  it  is  an 
early  one  ;  but  if  you  have  otlier  tubers  and  will  keep 
them  in  a  cool,  airy  store  fully  exposed  to  the  light— that 
is  if  you  purpose  planting  them  next  year — and  find  shoots 
push  from  the  eyes  by  Christmas,  rest  assured  that  the 
variety  is  an  early  one,  and  should  be  planted  on  a  warm 
border  so  early  as  the  end  of  February  in  your  district. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Hopse-manupe  and  saw-dust  (D.  Gardner). 
We  do  not  advise  you  to  mix  horse-manure  with  so-called 
saw-dust,  which  is,  of  course,  wood-dust.  This,  when 
decaying  in  the  soil,  is  likely  to  cause  injurious  fungi  to 
form.    It  will  be  far  better  to  use  the  horse-manure  alone. 


STIRLING  CHRYSANTHEMUM  ASSOCIATION. 
The  annual  show  of  this  association  was  opened  on 
November  10  in  the  Albert  Hall,  Stirling,  by  Lady 
Georgina  Home  Drummond.  There  was  a  large  attend- 
ance, presided  over  by  ex-Provost  Thomson.  The  show 
was  of  exceptionally  high  quality,  the  entries  showing  a 
considerable  increase,  the  total  number  being  in  excess 
of  any  previous  show  of  the  association.  The  blooms 
were  generally  of  splendid  character  and  the  pot  plants 
of  Chrysanthemums  very  fine.  The  other  horticultural 
exhibits  were  also  highly  creditable  to  the  district. 

The  silver  cup  for  four  plants  of  Japanese  was  won  by 
Mr.  James  Wood,  Dunmore  Park,  Mr.  H.  Gray,  Park 
Terrace,  Stirling,  coming  second.  Mr.  Wood  also  won  the 
first  prizes  in  the  plant  classes  for  two  pots  of  Japanese, 
one  pot  of  Japanese,  disbudded,  not  more  than  twenty- 
five  blooms,  and  four  pots  of  singles.  For  six  pots  of 
Japanese,  disbudded,  Mr.  Gray  came  in  first;  Mr.  Wood, 
second.  For  three  pots  of  Japanese,  distinct,  Mr.  Gray 
led  also,  Mr.  C.  M'Isaac  coming  second.  The  silver  cup 
for  six  vases  of  Japanese,  which  was  presented  by  Mr. 
Graeme  A.  Whitelaw,  Strathallan  Castle,  was  well  won 
by  Mr.  A.  Morton,  Cullen  House,  Cullen  ;  Mr.  M'Queen, 
Greenfield,  Alloa,  was  second.  For  twelve  blooms  of 
Japanese,  Mr.  D.  Carmichael,  Langgarth,  was  first  with  a 
very  fine  lot,  Mr.  J.  Wood  being  a  good  second.  For 
two  vases  of  white  Japanese,  Mr.  W.  Henderson,  Larbert 
House,  was  first,  Mr.  A.  M'Kenzie  being  first  for  yellows. 
For  two  vases  in  six  varieties,  Mr.  A.  Morton  led.  Among 
winners  in  other  classes  were  Messrs.  C.  Shaw,  C.  Palmer, 
J.  Wood,  J.  K.  Meston  and  H.  Gray.  The  amateurs 
showed  very  creditably,  and  the  whole  show  must  be 
pronounced  of  exceptional  quality. 

SCOTTISH  HORTICULTURAL  ASSOCIATION. 
The  November  meeting  of  this  association,  held  in  the 
Gooid  Hall,  St.  Andrew  Square,  Edinburgh,  was  one  of 
exceptional  interest,  and  a  large  number  of  members 
attended.  The  exhibits  were  especially  interesting,  and 
included  a  number  of  Begonias  raised  by  Mr.  J,  G.  White, 
secretary  of  the  Aberlour  Orphanage,  Banffshire,  in  pur- 
suance of  his  endeavours  to  raise  a  set  of  sweet-scented 
varieties.  They  were  obtained  from  cressingB.  Baumannii 
with  the  modern  tuberous  Begonia,  and  showed  that  a 
considerable  step  in  advance  has  been  made  by  Mr.  White 
in  raising  these  fragrant  flowers,  Mr.  White  was  awarded 
a  silver  medal  for  his  exhibit  and  for  his  work  in  this 
direction.  A  collection  of  winter-flowering  Begonias  came 
from  Messrs.  John  Downie,  Edinburgh  ;  Chrysanthemums 
from  Mr.  A.  Thomson,  Mr.  W.  Williamson  and  Messrs. 
Dobbie  and  Co. ;  and  Cypripediums  from  Messrs.  James 
Grieve  and  Sons,  votes  of  thanks  being  accorded  to  the 
exhibitors.  The  president,  Mr.  James  Whytock,  made  a 
feeling  reference  to  the  death  of  Mr.  David  Thomson,  late 
of  Drumlanrig,  and  a  letter  of  condolence  was  arranged  to 
be  sent  to  Miss  and  Mr.  D.  W.  Thomson.  Miss  M.  Burton, 
New  Saughton  Hall,  Polton,  gave  a  highly  interesting  and 
useful  paper  on  "Begonias,"  in  which  she  spoke  of  the 
three  main  sections  into  which  these  popular  flowers  could 
be  divided,  and  gave  much  information  regarding  them 
and  the  cultiu-e  required  by  the  plants.  Thereafter  Mr. 
.T.  G.  White  gave  an  address  in  which  he  related  his  work 
in  raising  the  sweet-scented  Begonias,  and  considerable 
interest  was  taken  in  the  results  of  his  labour,  the  variety 
of  scents  obtained  being  varied.  Miss  Burton  and  Mr. 
White  were  cordially  thanked  for  their  papers. 


KIRKCALDY  CHRYSANTHEMUM  SOCIETY. 
The  annual  show  of  the  Kirkcaldy  Chrysanthemum 
Society  was  held  in  the  Adam  Smith  Hall,  Kirlccaldy,  on 
November  12  and  13.  There  was  a  large  attendance  at 
the  opening  ceremony,  which  was  performed  by  Captain 
Stocks.  The  exhibition  was  of  very  high  (juality  in  every 
way,  it  being  generally  admitted  that  the  blooms  as  a 
whole  were  superior  to  those  of  last  year.  The  number 
of  entries  also  showed  an  advance  upon  previous  years, 
and  was  highly  creditable  to  the  growers  in  the  district 
and  elsewhere.  Mr.  Munro  Ferguson's  special  prize  for  a 
group  of  Chrysanthemums  was  won  by  his  own  gardener, 


584 


THE     GAEDEN. 


[November  27,  1909. 


Mr.  D.  M'Lean,  Raith,  with  a  fine  group  showine  high 
quality  and  effective  arrangement.  Sir  Michael  B.  Nairn'd 
challenge  cup,  for  six  vases  of  Chrysanthemums,  was  won 
by  Mr.  W.  Young,  Falkland  Palace,  with  Japanese,  which 
were  of  superb  quality  and  which  point  to  the  grower  as 
likely  to  take  a  high  place  in  larger  shows.  Mr.  W.  Black, 
Kirkcaldy,  was  Ilrst  for  the  Corporation  Gold  Medal  for 
a  pot  of  single-flowered  Chrysanthemums.  Among  the 
other  leading  winners  were  :  Mr.  A.  Robb,  Dysart  House  ; 
Mr.  J.  Brown,  Brunton  House;  Mr.  W.  Davidson,  Souther- 
town  ;  Mr.  J.  Fleming,  Leslie;  Mr.  .).  Thomson,  Buck- 
haven;  Mr.  D.  M.  Pryde,  jun.,  Buckhaven;  Mr.  R.  Brown, 
Kirkcaldy  ;  and  Mr.  W.  Hepburn,  Linktown. 

BRITISH  GARDENERS'  ASSOCIATION  (LONDON 
BRANCH). 
Mr,  E.  V.  HAWEy  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's 
Park,  N.W.,  gave  a  most  interesting  lecture  before  the 
members  of  this  association  on  Thursday  evening, 
November  11.  at  Carr's  Restaurant.  Strand,  the  subject 
being  "Should  We  Have  Fuller  State  Recognition  of 
Horticulture?"  In  the  course  of  his  remarks  Mr. 
Hawes  stated :  "During  the  past  twenty-five  years 
horticulture  has  made  rapid  strides  in  all  directions, 
until  at  the  present  time,  or  rather  in  1901,  when 
the  last  Census  was  taken,  no  fewer  than  216,105 
persons,  male  and  female,  ten  years  of  age  and  upwards, 
are  classified  under  the  headings  of  gardeners,  and  there  is 
no  doubt  whatever  that  the  numbers  have  considerably 
increased  since  that  period.  It  is  owing  to  the  increasing 
importance  of  horticulture  as  a  national  industry  that  I 
am  led  to  deal  with  this  subject  at  the  present  time. 

"  Horticulture  is  recognised  by  the  State  as  a  branch  of 
agriculture  under  the  direct  control  of  the  Board  of 
Agriculture  and  Fisheries,  and  consists  of  a  permanent 
staff  composed  of  president,  secretary,  asaiatant-secretaries, 
small  holdings  commissioners,  assistant-commissioners  or 
inspectors,  technical  adviser  in  botany,  chief  agricultural 
analyst,  chief  veterinary  officer.assistant- veterinary omcer, 
superintending  inspectors,  general  inspectors  and 
inspectors.  It  will  be  readily  seen  bv  the  foregoing  that 
horticulture  has  no  special  recognition  or  department  of 
its  own,  although  it  receives  a  certain  amount  of  considera- 
tion by  the  Board  and  some  of  its  officers.  This  is 
decidedly  not  the  fault  of  the  oftlcers,  but  rather  of  the 
constitution.  Considering  the  great  importance  of 
horticulture  as  a  national  industry  and  its  immense  value 
in  the  economy  of  Nature,  it  seems  perfectly  clear  that 
the  time  has  arrived  for  a  combined  national  movement 
in  order  to  secure  a  fuller  recognition  of  horticulture  by 
the  State.  We  have  already  existing,  as  shown  previously, 
small  holdings  comraissioners  on  an  organised  system, 
and  if  a  combined  effort  is  put  forth  on  the  part  of  horti- 
culturists generally,  there  is  no  reason  whatever  why  a 
further  Commission  of  Horticulture,  with  the  appoint- 
ment of  permanent  expert  horticultural  commissioners  to 
the  Board  of  Agriculture,  should  not  be  carried  out  in  the 
immediate  future.  Such  a  commission  as  the  above  would 
prove  of  the  greatest  advantage  if  conducted  on  sound 
Imes,  and  would  lead  to  the  uniting  of  the  whole  of  the 
societies  and  organisations  at  present  working  inde- 
pendently of  each  other  into  a  central  Chamber  of 
Horticulture,  on  which  they  all  should  be  represented 
and  by  which  questions  affecting  horticulture  could  be 
collectively  discussed  and  dealt  with. 

"  At  the  same  time  there  is  another  important  phase  of 
the  subject  which  needs  consideration— the  desirability  of 
making  horticulture  a  separate  section  under  the  Census 
Returns.  At  the  present  time  gardeners  are  included 
under  two  headmgs— those  employed  in  private  gardens  as 
domestic  outdoor  servants,  and  nurserymen,  seedsmen  and 
florists  under  the  head  of  agriculture.  I  am  perfectly 
aware  that  this  would  cause  a  distinct  change,  especially 
Id  regard  to  private  gardeners,  who  are  now  classed  as 
outdoor  domestics  with  coachmen,  grooms  and  game- 
keepers. I  do  not  wish  for  one  moment  to  say  anything 
detrimental  to  the  intelligence  of  the  latter  body  of  men  ; 
but  I  do  think  that  some  consideration  should  be  shown  to 
gardeners,  whose  training  and  knowledge  are  required  to 
successfullv  cultivate  the  vast  number  of  plants,  flowers 
and  fruits  which  are  now  in  existence  and  daily  increasing 
in  variety.  There  are  gardeners  and  garden  labourers ; 
these  should  be  distinguished  separately  for  the  same 
reason  as  labourers  in  other  branches  of  trade  are  distinct. 

"In  conclusion,  the  London  branch  of  the  British 
Gardeners'  Association  will,  I  hope,  endorse  the  opinion 
that  the  time  has  arrived  when  some  definite  action  should 
be  undertaken  in  order  to  secure  a  fuller  recognition  of 
horticulture,  to  which  we  all  belong,  by  the  State." 

A  full  discussion  followed,  in  which  Messrs.  Barnes. 
Raftill,  Tidy,  Friend.  Morland  aud  others  took  part,  and 
it  was  decided  to  refer  the  question  to  the  executive 
council  for  consideration. 


DUNFERMLINE    HORTICULTrRAL    SOCIETY'S 
CHRYSAN'I'HEMrM    SHOW. 

This  show  was  opened  on  November  12  in  St.  Margarefs 
Hall,  Dunfermline,  and  proved  of  high  quality,  the  blooms 
being  considered  much  superior  to  tliose  of  last  year's 
show,  being,  as  a  rule,  large,  well  finished  and  of  good 
colour.  The  number  of  entries  was  about  400,  this  repre- 
senting little  difference  from  last  year,  although  the  show 
was  a  fortnight  earlier.  Plants  were  also  good,  and  the 
specimens  wbich  won  the  special  prizes  were  of  superior 
quality.  Mr.  Neil  Maclean's  plant  of  Lady  Hanham,  with 
which  he  won  the  first  prize  for  plants,  was  very  fine.  Mr. 
.i.  Wilson  received  a  special  prize  for  a  Chrysanthemum 
plant  grown  by  an  amateur,  his  variety  being  Mrs.  Ritson 
A  tribute  was  paid  by  the  judges  to  that  tine  Chrysan- 
themum Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller  by  the  special  prizes  for  the 
best  blooms  in  the  gardeners'  and  amateurs"  classes  going 


to  this  flower,  the  prize  one  in  the  gardeners'  class  being 
exhibited  by  Mr.  J.  Waldie,  Dollarbeg,  and  in  the 
amateurs'  by  Mr.  T.  Peebles,  a  Stirling  amateur.  Space 
will  not  admit  of  detailing  the  other  awards. 

AUTLiMN  SHOW  AT  WINDSOR. 
The  eighteenth  annual  autumn  show  was  held  in  the  Royal 
Albert  Institute  on  the  12bh  inst.,  when  there  was  a  good 
display  of  Chrysanthemums  and  other  plants.  In  the 
section  for  cut  blooms  the  principal  class  was  that  for  six 
vases,  five  blooms  in  each,  for  which  the  King's  Challenge 
Cup  is  offered  as  first  prize.  For  two  years  previously  this 
had  been  won  bv  Mr.  T.  Stevenson,  Woburn  Place  Gardens, 
Addlestone,  and  this  year  he  was  the  only  competitor, 
thus  winning  the  cup  outright.  His  blooms  of  Reginald 
Vallis  and  Walter  Jinks  were  particularly  good.  Mr. 
Stevenson  was  also  the  only  competitor  in  the  class  for 
eighteen  Japanese,  distinct,  arranged  in  a  given  space 
with  the  addition  of  any  foliage  plants  or  cut  foliage.  His 
flowers  here  were  exceedinely  good  and  very  tastefully 
arranged.  For  twelve  incurved  and  twelve  Japanese 
varieties,  distinct,  the  challenge  cup  given  by  Lady 
Evelyn  Mason  and  also  an  additional  cash  first  prize  were 
won  by  Mr.  C.  Page,  gardener  to  J.  B.  Fortescae,  Eh]., 
Dropmore,  Maidenhead,  who  staged  beautiful  flowers  of 
both  typ<^8.  Among  the  Japanese  were  splendid  examples 
of  Lady  Talbot,  Mrs.  Norman  Davis,  F.  S.  Vallis,  Mrs.  A. 
T.  Miller  and  Leigh  Park  Wonder.  Extra  good  incurved 
were  Clara  Wells,  Buttercup  and  Godfrey's  Eclipse.  There 
were  three  competitors  in  this  class,  Mr.  R.  Evens, 
gardener  to  H.  F.  Sla-ttery,  Esq.,  being  placed  second. 

In  the  class  for  six  single  varieties,  five  sprays  of  each, 
not  disbu'liled,  Mr.  C.  Page  was  again  first,  there  being 
eight  entries.  His  blooms  of  Metta  and  Mary  Richardson 
were  particularly  attractive.  Second  honours  were  secured 
by  Mr.  W.  Cole,  gardener  to  Miss  E.  B.  Foster,  Clewer 
Manor.  Mr.  Page  was  a]'?o  first  for  large  blooms  arranged 
in  a  basket  or  vase,  Mr.  Stevenson  being  a  good  second. 

For  twelve  Japanese,  distinct,  there  were  six  competi- 
tors, Mr.  Stevenson  winning  the  premier  prize  in  good 
style,  Mr.  J.  Minty.  gardener  to  Mrs.  Moir,  Cockle,  being 
second.  Mr.  Stevenson  was  also  first  for  six  Japanese 
blooms  of  any  one  variety  and  for  six  incurved  blooms  of 
one  variety,  the  winning  blooms  being  respectively  Lady 
Talbot  and  Buttercup.  In  the  amateurs'  section  the  chief 
class  was  for  twelve  Japanese,  first  honours  here  being  won 
by  the  Rev.  G.  S.  Cuthbert  with  a  splendid  lot  of  fiowers, 
Mr.  C  Hanstin  being  a  good  second. 

In  the  section  for  groups  of  plants  the  competition  was 
good,  Mr.  W.  Cole  being  first  for  Chrysanthemums 
arranged  with  Crotons  and  other  foliage  plants.  Second 
prize  fell  to  Mr.  E.  J.  Hill,  Kardeuer  to  A.  L.  Wigan,  Emi. 
Mr.  F.  Conp,  gardener  to  E.  Iveson,  Esq.,  Ascot,  was  a 
good  first  for  a  group  of  decorative  Chrysanthemums,  not 
diibudded,  this  being  a  very  beautiful  class  indeed ; 
second  prize  went  to  Mr.  J.  Barnes,  gardener  to  Lady 
DaltOD  Fitzgerald  ;  Mr.  G.  West,  gardener  to  F.  Ricardo, 
Esq.,  Old  Windsor,  was  third.  All  three  groups  were 
composed  of  excellent  plants,  the  ch'ef  difference  being 
in  thf.  arrangement.  For  a  group  of  miscellaneous  plants 
Mr.  J.  Minty  was  first  and  Mr.  F.  Clark  second. 


BOrRNEMOUTH    GARDENERS'    ASSOCIATION. 

Mr  Tanner,  the  borough  bacteriologist,  gave  a  very  inter- 
esting and  instructive  lecture  before  a  go'id  attendance  of 
the  members  of  the  above  association  on  Tuesday,  Novem- 
ber 10,  on  "The  Life,  History  and  Structure  of  a  Fern." 
After  delivering  his  lecture  Mr.  Tanner  placed  a  number 
of  microscopical  specimens  under  three  powerful 
glasses,  and  as  the  members  inspected  them  he  further 
described  the  structure  of  various  species  of  Ferns.  The 
lecturer  created  much  interest  by  his  very  able  references 
to  the  common  Bracken  Fern,  and  also  in  his  description 
of  the  male  and  female  organs,  fartilisation  aud  the  first 
stages  of  the  germination  of  the  snores  and  subsequent 
growth  of  the  seedlings.  After  Mr.  Tanner  had  replied  to 
some  questions,  the  members,  on  the  motion  of  the  chair- 
man, gave  him  a  very  hearty  vote  of  thanks,  and  this 
ended  a  most  instructive  and  enjoyable  evening. 

EDINBURGH  CHRYSANfUEMUM  SHOW. 
The  great  annual  Chrysanthemum  show  of  the  Scottish 
Horticultural  Association  took  place  in  the  Waverley 
Market,  Edinburgh,  on  November  18,  19  and  '20  under 
unfavourable  climatic  conditions,  which  to  some  degree 
prevented  it  from  being  so  fine  a  display  as  usual.  The 
frost  was  extremely  severe,  and  the  surprise  was  that  the 
number  of  exhibits  forwarded  was  so  little  reduced  and 
that  so  few  showed  traces  of  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather  they  experienced  on  their  way  to  the  sliow. 
Taking  the  exhibition  as  a  whole,  there  was  a  very  high 
degree  of  excellence  shown  in  the  greater  number  of  the 
classes,  and,  whatever  reduction  there  may  be  in  the 
number  of  large  blooms  cultivated  in  private  gardens  in 
Scotland,  there  is  no  falling  off  in  the  quality  of  the 
blooms  shown  at  this  great  exhibition.  These  were  very 
flue,  and  the  competition  in  some  classes  close  indeed. 
Pot  plants  were  also  good,  there  being  some  of  high  excel- 
lence in  several  classes.  Florists'  decorative  work  formed 
one  of  the  attractive  features  of  the  show,  and  the  fruit 
was  up  to  the  high  standard  of  previous  exhibitions, 
while  vegetables  contributed  several  strong  classes. 

TuAT'E  Exhibits 
were  not  so  numerous  as  we  have  seen  at  this  show. 
Among  the  most  prominent  were  the  following  : 

Messrs.  W.  Wells  and  Co.,  Merstham,  showed  a  large 
collection  of  cut  blooms,  singles  being  very  prominent 
and  showing  the  advance  made  in  these  varieties  since  the 
revival  of  favour  they  are  experiencing  set  in. 


Messrs.  Storrie  and  Storrie,  Glencarse,  exhibited  a  large 
variety  of  fruit  trees  in  pots,  together  with  dishes  of 
fruits,  such  as  Apples,  Pears,  &c. 

From  John  Forbes,  Limited,  Hawick,  came  Carnations, 
A'c,  in  much  variety  and  of  the  newest  types. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  made  a  display  of 
their  specialities,  the  Onions  they  exhibited  representing 
the  various  types  and  eliciting  much  interest. 

Messrs.  Tilie,  Whyte  and  Co.,  Edinburgh,  exhibited  a 
large  variety  of  vegetables. 

From  Messrs.  William  Thomson  and  Sou,  Clovenfords, 
came  a  flue  exhibit  of  Gros  Colman  Grapes  from  Vines 
upwards  of  forty  years  of  age. 

The  British  Columbia  (iovernment  sent  a  display  of  fruit 
to  show  the  capabilities  of  the  province  for  fruit-growing. 

Jlr.  H.  N.  Ellison,  West  Bromwich,  made  an  effective 
display  of  Ferns  and  various  flowers  ;  and  Messrs.  Glass. 
Elinburgh,  exhibited  a  large  variety  of  floral  designs  of 
tasteful  design  and  execution.    In  the 

Competitive  Department.*^  of  the  Show, 

the  class  which  was  the  object  of  the  keenest  interest  was 
that  for  the  City  of  Edinburgh  Queen  Victoria  Memorial 
Prize,  for  fifteen  vases  of  Japanese,  three  blooms  in  a 
vase,  for  which  a  cup  and  £20  in  cash  were  offered. 
There  was  here  a  splendid  competition,  although  Mr.  T. 
Lunt,  Keir,  last  year's  winner,  did  not  show.  The  first 
honours  fell  to  Mr.  A.  Morton  for  a  very  fine  exhibit 
containing  many  splendid  blooms.  Mr.  Morton  has  lately 
been  coming  to  the  front,  but  this  is  the  first  time  he  has 
won  this  trophy.  He  had  130i  points  out  of  ISO,  those 
coming  next  being  Mr.  D.  Nicoll,  Rossie,  with  137^  points ; 
Mr.  James  Beisant,  Castle  Huntly,  131J  points ;  and  Mr. 
W.  Iggulden,  Frome,  with  127^  points. 

For  the  Scottish  Challenge  Cup,  for  eight  vases  in  eight 
varieties,  there  was  a  strong  competition,  Mr.  J.  R.  Finnic, 
Sunnyhill,  shandon,  coming  in  first  with  73  points  out  of 
96  points.  Mr.  L.  M'Lean,  Greenfield,  Alloa,  was  second. 
For  six  vases,  Japanese,  in  six  varieties,  Mr.  J.  L.  M'Kellar, 
Portmarnock,  Ireland,  wan  first ;  and  for  twenty-four 
blooms.  Japanese,  shown  on  boards,  Mr.  M'Kellar  was  again 
first.  In  the  class  confined  to  growers  within  the  boun- 
daries of  Edinburgh  aud  Leith,  Mr.  A.  Stenhouse,  Morn- 
ingside  Asylum,  was  first. 

Other  leading  winners  with  cut  blooms  were  Messrs. 
Macskimmine,  A.  Bruce,  A.  E,  Todd,  G.  Scott,  W.  G. 
Pirie  and  A.  Knight.  Mr.  D.  Nicoll  won  the  medal  for  the 
best  bloom.  The  beat  dinner-table  decorations  were  from 
Mr.  James  Beats,  Binrock.  In  the  pot  plant  classes  Mr.  W. 
Pulman  led  for  six  distinct  Chrysanthemums  and  Mr.  W. 
Mfcbie  for  four,  the  latter  having  the  best  Pompons. 
Other  pot  plants  were  good  as  a  whole,  Mr.  A.  M'Millan, 
Douglas  Castle,  Mr.  W.  P.  Bell  and  Mr.  A.  Knight  being 
among  the  leading  winners.    As  already  indicated, 

Fruit 
was  of  high  quality,  aud  Mr.  D.  Kidd,  Carberry  Tower, 
came  in  first  for  the  collection  nf  eighteen  dishes  arranged 
with  flowers  or  plants;  Mr.  G.  Mackinlay  was  second. 
Mr.  Kidd  was  also  first  for  four  bunches  of  Grapes,  and 
other  leading  winners  in  the  fruit  classes  were  Messrs. 
J.  Beipant,  T.  Macphail,  J.  Highgate,  J.  Shiells,  W.  G. 
Pirie,  R.  G.  Sinclair,  J.  L.  M'Kellar  and  W.  Galloway. 

The  collections  of  vegetables  were  of  high  quality,  but 
here  Mr.  J.  Gibson,  Welbeck  Abbey,  again  proved  himself 
invincible,  even  against  such  good  growers  as  Mr.  R. 
Stuart,  Thirle&tane  Castle,  and  Mr.  W.  Galloway,  Gosford. 
The  show  was  opened  by  Mr.  H.  B.  Cox,  aud  the  excellent 
arrangements  of  the  committee  and  Mr.  A.  D.  Richardson, 
the  secretary  of  the  association,  deserve  commendation. 


ABERDEEN  CHRYSANTHEMUM  SOCIETY. 
The  annual  two  days'  show  of  this  society  was  opened  on 
November  19  in  the  Music  Hall,  Aberdeen.  The  number 
of  entries  was  slightly  above  that  of  last  year,  while  the 
(juality  of  the  exhibits  showed  no  decadence  from  the  high 
standard  of  former  years.  The  leading  class  for  cut  blooms 
was  that  for  twelve  vases,  Japanese,  in  twelve  varieties, 
three  of  each,  and  Mr.  J.  Jenkins,  jun.,  Woodside, 
Aberdeen,  led  with  splendid  blooms  of  first-class  form, 
size  and  colour.  He  was  closely  followed  bv  Mr.  A. 
Morton,  CuUen  House,  Banff,  the  winner  of  the  leading 
prize  at  the  Edinburgh  show.  For  eighteen  Japanese, 
Mr.  A.  Morton  was  first.  For  twelve  Japanese,  Mr.  A. 
Oliphant,  Montrose,  was  first.  The  best  twelve  incurved 
came  from  Mr.  8.  Jamieson,  Burton  Hall,  Loughborough. 
Other  leading  winners  with  cut  blooms  were  Mr.  J.  D. 
Smith.  Mr.  A.  Duncan,  Mr.  W.  Milne  aud  Mr.  R.  Begg. 
Christmas  Roses,  always  good  at  this  show,  were  very  fine, 
Mr.  W.  Milne  coming  in  first  for  twenty-four  trusses,  not 
disbudded. 

Mr.  A.  Reid,  Hurri",  was  first  for  six  varieties  of  cut 
flowers,  and  also  for  bucches  of  Orchids.  Bouquets  and 
other  fiorists'  work  brought  out  some  splendid  exhibits, 
and  the  leading  winners  in  these  were  Messrs.  J.  Stewart, 
Adam  and  Craigmyle,  G.  Smith,  A.  J.  Burns  and  J.  T. 
Milne.  Pot  plants  were  generally  of  good  quality,  and  the 
leading  honours  for  Chrysanthemums  went  to  Messrs. 
A.  Murray  and  A.  Duncan,  the  former  taking  nearly  all  the 
first  prizes.  Messrs.  W,  Arthur,  A.  Duncan,  R.  Begg  and 
A.  P«.eid  led  in  the  other  plant  classes. 

Hardy  fruit  was  exceptionally  well  shown,  but  the 
classes  for  Grapes  oucht  to  be  rather  more  numerous  at 
such  an  important  show.  Mr.  J.  Grigor  was  first  for  a 
collection  of  cooking  Apples,  and  Mr.  A.  Paterson  for  a 
collection  of  dessert  Apples.  Other  winners  with  fruit 
were  Messrs.  J.  A.  Grigor,  R.  A.  Grigor  and  W.  B.  Cormick. 

The  severe  weather  experienced  in  the  ilistriit  restricted 
the  quantity  of  vegetables  forwarded,  but  some  high-class 
produce  was  shown.  Messrs.  J.  and  D.  Mackenzie  were 
first  for  the  collection. 


November  27,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


vu. 


Amateurs  exhibited  very  well  in  their  classes,  and  Mr. 
J.  .Tenklni,  jun.,  who  won  in  the  open  class,  won  here  also 
in  the  leadin?  class  for  out  blooms— six  vases  of  Japanese. 

Trade  exhibits  were  very  eood,  and  included  Chrysan- 
themums from  Messrs.  W.  Wells  aiil  Co.,  Limited  :  fruit 
from  Messrs.  T.  Rivers  and  Son,  ."^awhrideeworth,  Messrs. 
Cr.  Bunyard  and  Co.,  Mnidstone,  and  the  British  Columbia 
Government;  and  Carnations  and  other  flowers  and  plants 
from  Mr.  M.  H.  Sinclair,  Aberdeen. 


ROYAL  HOETICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 
At  the  fortnightly  meeting  held  at  Vincent  Square  on  the 
23rd  inst.  there  was  a  Kood  display  of  flowers  and  fruit. 
Pears  lieing  particularly  well  shown.  Winter-flowering 
Begonias,  perpetual-flowering  Carnations  and  Chrysanthe- 
mums were  the  principal  flowers  shown,  a  few  good  groups 
of  Orchids  also  being  staged. 

Orchid  Committee. 

Present :  Mr.  Harry  J.  Veitch  (chairman),  Messrs.  .Tames 
O'Brien,  de  B.  Crawshay,  J.  Forster  Acock,  W.  Boxall,  W. 
Thompson,  Stuart  H.  Low,  F.  Menteith  Oailvie,  C.  H. 
Curtis,  A.  N.  A.  McBean,  F.  J.  ITanbury,  Walter  Cobb, 
A.  Dye,  W.  P.  Bound,  W.  H.  Hatcher,  J.  Cypher,  H.  G. 
Alexander,  H.  A.  Tracey,  H.  Ballantine,  Gumey  Wilson, 
W.  H  White  and  W.  Bolton. 

Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co  ,  Bush  Hill  Park,  Enfield, 
staged  a  f  mall  group  of  choice  plants,  these  being  arranged 
in  the  form  of  a  sloping  bank.  Maidenhair  Ferns 
forming  a  groundwork.  Cattleya  Maggie  Raphael  alba, 
C  lahlata  Qae»n  Maud,  Lsello-Cattleya  Decir,  Bulbo- 
phyllum  godseflianum,  lonopsis  paniculata,  La;lia  einna- 
brosa  :<  aurea  and  Cypripedium  Mme.  Geo.  Truffant  were 
a  few  among  many  that  deserved  special  mention.  Silver 
Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  J.  Cypher  and  Sons,  Cheltenham,  put  up  a  small 
group  of  choice  and  well-flowered  Cypripediums,  the 
colours  of  many  of  these  being  particularly  good.  C. 
fairieanum  was  shown  in  quantity,  and  other  notable  sorts 
were  C.  insigne  Ernestii,  C.  i.  Kathleen  Corser,  C.  i. 
Harefleld  Hall,  C.  i.  Sanderse,  C.  Minos  Veitchii,  C. 
leeanum  magniflcum  and  C.  harrissianum  superbum. 
Silver  Banksian  medal. 

From  Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co.,  Havward's  Heath, 
came  a  small  but  most  interesting  group  of  choice  olants, 
these  all  being  well  grown  and  carrying  first-class  flowers. 
Among  others  we  specially  noticed  a  large  specimen  of 
Cattleya  lucida,  Denrtrobiura  Ccelogyne,  Cattleya  Rhoda, 
Sophro-Lselia  Leda,  Cattleya  Venus  King  Manoel.  Lielio- 
Cattleya  Nelthorpe  Beuclerke  (a  very  large  -  flowered 
hybrid  of  unusual  colour),  and  a  flne  specimen  of  the 
white  Odontoglossum  armainvillierensis  xanthotes.  Silver 
Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Stanley  and  Co.,  Southgate,  London,  N.,  staged 
a  few  well-grown  plants  of  Cypripedium,  among  which  we 
noticed  C.  insigne  Stanleyii,  a  choice  flower  with  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  white  in  its  segments,  the  only  other 
colour  being  pale  yellow. 

Messrs.  Armstrong  and  Brown,  Tunbridge  Wells,  staged 
several  well-grown  plants,  among  them  being  the  curious 
Dendrobium  Ccelogyne. 

From  Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  C.I.E.,  C.V.O.,  Wes- 
tonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucestershire  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  G. 
Alexander)  came  four  splendidly  grown  plants,  Lmlio- 
Cattleya  Golden  Beauty,  L.-C.  Pauline  and  L.-C.  Barbarossa 
Westonbirt  variety  being  particularly  pleasing. 

Sfessrs.  M.  Mertens,  Ghent,  exhibited  a  few  of  their 
beautiful  hybrid  Odontoglossums,  and  also  a  flne  hybrid 
Cynripedium,  all  being  in  flrst-class  condition. 

The  Cvpripediums  from  Messrs.  J.  and  A.  A.  McBean, 
Cooksbridge,  Sussex,  included  several  large  and  well- 
flowered  specimens  of  C.  insigne  Sanderfe.  and  also  a 
number  of  smaller  but  choice  subjects.  Silver  Banksian 
medal. 

Messrs.  .Tames  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea,  put  up 
a  flne  group  of  well-grown  Cypripediums,  these  generally 
being  well  flowered  and  of  excellent  colours.  C.  Ville  de 
Paris,  C.  spicerianum,  C.  Milo  superhum  (an  extra 
beautiful  flower),  C.  insigne  Sanderse.  C.  fairieanum.  C.  St. 
Alban,  C.  Maudioe  magniflcum,  C.  Thalia,  C.  vexillarium 
and  C.  leeanum  varieties  were  all  worthy  of  special 
mention.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Fruit  and  Vesetablb  Committee. 

Present:  Mr.  George  Bunyard  (chairman),  Messrs.  .1. 
Cheal,  G.  Woodward,  .T.  Willard.  A.  Dean,  Edwin  Beckett, 
H.  Markham,  G.  Hobday,  W.  Jefferies,  A.  R.  Allan,  J. 
Davis,  H.  Parr,  G.  Reynolds,  P.  W.  Tuckett,  J.  Harrison, 
a.  Wythes,  Owen  Thomas,  W.  Pouparc  and  H.  Somers 
Rivers. 

From  the  Woburn  Experimental  Fruit  Farm  came  a  most 
instructive  exhibit  of  Apples  grown  under  varying  condi- 
tions, and  showing  the  effects  of  turOng  over  the  roots. 
growing  in  untrenched  and  weedy  ground,  in  trenched 
ground,  heavy  dressings  with  manures  or  dung,  moderate 
dressing  of  artiflcial  manures  or  dung,  the  effects  of  root- 
pruning,  summer  pruning  and  winter  pruning. 

Messrs.  W.  Seabrook  and  Sons,  The  Nurseries,  Chelms- 
ford, staged  a  beautiful  representative  group  of  Apples 
and  Pears,  this  comprising  a  large  number  of  the  leading 
varieties.  Among  the  Apples  Blenheim  Orange,  King  of 
the  Pippins,  Bismarck,  Charles  Ross,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin. 
Ribston  Pippin,  Allington  Pippin,  Peasgood's  Nonsuch  and 
Emperor  Alexander  were  particularly  well  coloured.  Pears 
Charles  Ernest  and  Doyenne  du  Cornice  were  also  in 
splendid  form.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Ambrose  Palmer  and  Co.,  87,  Mount  Street, 
Grosvenor  Square,  staged  a  small  collection  of  Apples  and 
Pears,  these  being  backed  and  flanked  with  Chrysanthe- 
mums and  Palms.  The  fruits  shown  were  mostly  very 
good,  but  the  arrangement  left  something  to  be  desired. 


Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons,  Crawley,  Sussex,  staged  two 
splendid  baskets  of  Pears  and  Apples,  the  varieties  being 
respectively  Beurre  de  Naghan  and  Encore.  The  quality 
of  these  new  varieties  is  superb,  and  the  fruits  displayed 
on  this  occasion  attracted  a  considerable  amount  of 
attention. 

In  the  competitive  classes  for  fruit  competition  was 
better  than  usual.  For  nine  dishes  of  Apples  (three 
dessert  and  six  cooking,  amateurs  only),  the  flrst  prize 
went  to  J.  G.  Williams,  Esq.,  Pendley  Manor,  Tring 
(gardener,  Mr.  F.  G.  Gerrish),  who  staged  a  superb  collec- 
tion. Charles  Ross,  femperor  Alexander  and  Peasgood's 
Nonauch  were  remarkably  good.  Second  honours  went  to 
Sir  Marcus  Samuel,  Bart.,  The' Mote,  Maidstone,  Kent 
(gardener,  Mr.  W.  JT.  Bacon),  whose  fruits  were  extra  well 
coloured,  Charles  Ross,  Peasgood's  Nonsuch  and  Christ- 
mas Pearmain  calling  for  special  mention.  C.  H.  Combe, 
Esq.,  Cobham  Park,  Cobham,  Surrev  (gardener,  Mr. 
H.  Tidy),  was  third ;  and  C.  Cain,  Esq.,  The  Wode, 
Welwyn,  Hertfordshire  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  Pateman), 
fourth. 

Id  the  amateurs'  class  for  six  dishes  of 'Apples  (two 
deesert  and  four  cooking),  J.  T.  Charlesworth,  Esq.,  Nut- 
fleld  Court,  Surrey  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  W.  Herbert),  was 
placed  second,  and  Colonel  the  Hon.'C.  Harbord,  Gunton 
Park,  Norwich  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Allan),  was  awarded  an 
extra  prize,  no  first  prize  being  awarded.  We  understand 
that  the  Hon.  C.  Harbord's  exhibit,  which  was  certainly 
the  better  of  the  two,  forfeited  the  flrst  prize  on  accoimt 
of  two  dishes  of  Braraley'sSeedling being  shown,  one  under 
the  name  of  Beauty  of  Kent. 

In  the  trade  growers'  class  for  twelve  dishes  of  Apples 
(four  dessert  and  eight  cooking),  Messrs.  W.  Seabrook  and 
Sons,  Chelmsford,  were  flrst  with  a  very  good  collec- 
tion, the  fruits  being  large  and  well  coloured.  Second 
honours  were  won  by  Messrs.  Ambrose  and  Co.,  Mount 
Street,  Upper  Halliford. 

In  the  amateurs'  class  for  nine  dishes  of  Pears  (seven 
dessert  and  two  cooking),  the^'flrst  prize  was  well  won  bv 
C.  H.  Combe,  Esq.,  Cobham  Park-i(gardener,  Mr.  A.  Tidy), 
the  fruits  shown  here  being  remarkably  good,  this  applying 
especially  to  Beurre  Diel,  Duchesse  d'Angoulgme  and 
Doyenn6  du  Cornice.  Sir  Marcus  Samuel,  Bart.,  was  second 
and  .1.  B.  Fortescue,  Esq.,  Dropmore,  Maidenhead  (gar- 
dener, Mr.  C.  Page),  third. 

In  a  similar  class  for  six  dishes  (flve  dessert  and  one 
cooking),  flrst  prize  went  to  C.  Cain,  Esq.,  Welwyn,  Herts 
(gardener,  Mr.  T.  Pateman),  these  being  a  very  good  lot 
indeed,  Eooile  d'Heyst  and  Beurr6  Alexau'^re  Lucas  calling 
for  special  mention.  The  Right  Hon  the  Viscount  Eiifleld, 
Wrotham  Park,  Barnet  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  Markham),  was 
a  close  second,  the  fruits  shown  here  being  large  and  par- 
ticularly well  flnished,  the  dishes  of  Pitmaston  Duchess 
and  Doyenn6  du  Comice  being  superb  and  worthy  of 
the  highest  possible  praise. 

A  dish  of  Apples  Ribston  Pippin,  from  the  original  tree 
of  this  well-known  and  popular  variety,  was  shown  by 
Major  ,T.  W.  Dent,  Ribston  Hall,  Wetherby,  the  fniits 
naturally  being  rather  small,  as  the  tree  is  now  just 
20(1  years  old. 

Floral  Committee. 

Present:  Mr.  W.  Marshall  (chairman),  Messrs.  C.  T. 
Druery,  H.  B.  May,  W.  6.  Baker,  E  A.  Bowles,  James 
Walker,  J.  Green,  C.  R.  Fielder,  J.  W.  Birr,  R.  W.  Wallace, 
W.  J.  Bean,  J.  F.  McLeod,  G.  Reuthe,  H.  J.  Jones, 
Charles  Dixon,  Charles  E.  Pearson,  Charles  E  Shea,  J.  T. 
Bennett-Poe,  W.  P.  Thomson,  E.  H  Jenkins,  E.  Mawley, 
J.  Jennings,  R  Hooper  Pearson,  William  Howe,  C.  Blick 
and  James  Hudson. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  brought  a  very 
flne  lot  of  the  winter-flowering  Begonias,  arranging  a 
double-sized  table  of  the  plants,  which  were  a  mass  of 
bloom.  The  small-flowered  Agatha,  enshrouded  with  pink 
blossoms,  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  decorative  of  its 
class,  the  dwarf  plants  laden  with  blossoms  appealing  to 
all.  Essentially  a  plant  to  be  grown  by  all,  invaluable  in 
the  home  and  of  enhanced  beauty  when  seen  under 
artificial  light,  it  is  delightful  in  the  extreme.  Other 
good  varieties  were  Success,  rosy  carmine ;  Ensign,  rose 
salmon  ;  Winter  Cheer,  carmine  ;  and  Julius,  of  a  lovely 
Oleander  pink  shade.  Mrs.  Heal,  deep  carmine,  and 
one  of  the  most  decorative  of  its  class,  was  in  excellent 
condition.  The  vigour  of  growth  and  the  free  and  profuse 
flowering  of  the  plants  are  notable  features  of  these  excel- 
lent subjects.  Messrs.  Veitch  also  displayed  a  flne  lot  of 
Chrysanthemums,  single  and  decorative  sorts,  in  great 
variety.  Of  the  singles  Atair  (white),  William  Grix, 
Portia  and  Castor  (yellow),  Feltham  (white),  Kitty  Bourne 
(yellow).  Ursa  Major  (pink)  and  Roupell  Beauty  (a  distinct 
shade  of  red)  were  among  the  best.  Market  Red.  Niveus 
and  others  were  also  shown  in  capital  form.  Silver-gilt 
Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Enfleld,  brought  a  very'flne 
displav  of  the  winter-flowering  Carnations,  of  which  May 
Day,  Rose  Doree,  Britannia,  Enchantress,  White  Perfec- 
tion and  many  more  were  included-  The  somewhat  exten- 
sive series  of  seedling  varieties,  more  particularly  in  the 
pink-flowered  shades,  were  of  exceptional  interest  and 
afforded  food  for  reflection  in  this  particular  direction.  A 
variety  of  much  promise  is  Rival,  light  scarlet,  of  excel- 
lent size  and  good  habit.  Mrs.  Crook,  a  fancy  in  this  sec- 
tion, is  profusely  spotted^iwhite  on  atpurplish  crimson 
ground.  A  large  group  of  Begonia  Patria  was  seen  in 
excellent  condition.     Bronze  Flora  medal. 

From  Mr.  Bullock,  Copped  Hall,  Epping,  came  a  group 
of  Begonia  Ensign,  the  plants  being  of  large  size. 

Messrs.  W.  Wells  and  Co.,  Limited,  Merstham,  brought 
a  very  good  display  of  single,  decorative  and  large-Iiowered 
Chrysanthemums,  of  which  R.  F.  Felton,  yellow;  Felicity, 
single,  white ;  Miss  Muriel  Smith,  terra-cotta ;  Wells's  Late 
Pink  and  Hetty  Wells  were  among  the  most  prominent. 
Bronze  Flora  medal, 


Messrs.  .T.  Peed  and  "Sons,  West'? Norwood,  brought 
several  boxes  of  alpines,  chiefly  of  the  encrusted  Saxifrages, 
with  Sedums  and  other  dwarf  plants. 

Messrs.  Ambrose,  Palmer  and  Co.  had  a  display  of 
Chrysanthemums,  with  baskets  of  high-class  Apples  and 
Pears,  the  whole  being  well  shown. 

The  Misses  Hopkins,  Sheppertonon-Thames,  had  a  small 
exhibit  of  hardy  things,  which  included  single-flowered 
Chrysanthemums  and  a  few  alpines. 

Mr.  A.  F.  Dutton,  Tver,  Bucks,  exhibited  vases  of  Carna- 
tions, in  which  May  Day  and  Pink  Delight  iwere  two 
excellent  pink-flowered  sorts. 

Mr.  H.  J.  Jones,  Lewisham,  set  up'  a  splendid  group  of 
Chrysanthemums,  in  which  the  large-flowered  single  and 
decorative  sorts  were  sumptuously  displayed.  The  large- 
flowered  section  was  well  represented  by  vases  of  big 
blooms,  as  many  as  a  dozen  or  eighteen  blooms  in  a 
vase,  the  remainder  being  set  in  Bamboo  stands,  which 
displayed  their  merits  to  advantage.  Of  the  large-flowered 
section.  Buttercup  (rich  yellow).  True  Gold,  F.  S.  Vallis, 
Mrs.  Hygate  (white),  Oberthur  and  John  D.  Day  were 
exceedingly  good,  while  the  singles  included  J.  B.  Lowe 
(crimson)  and  Minsa  (white),  both  of  large  size,  each 
receiving  an  award  of  merit.  The  group  was  of  a;most 
extensive  character,  admirably  arranged  in  every  way. 
Silver-gilt  Flora  medal. 

Mr  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond,  Surrey,  brought  a  very 
flne  grom  of  berried  and  variegated  shrubs,  such  as 
Hollies,  Aucuba  vera,  Cratsegus  Lelandii,  variegated  Ivies 
and  other  plants  of  great  service  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  Some  well-berried  Skimmias  were  also  displayed. 
Mr.  Russell  also  showed  some  excellent  single- 
flowered  Chrysanthemums,  of  which  Mrs.  Arthur  Raw- 
lings,  terra-cotta ;  Mrs.  W.  Buckingham,  blush  pink,  very 
flne  •  and  Merstham  Jewel,  bronze,  were  the  most  impor- 
tant. There  were  also  some  excellent  seedlings  shown. 
Silver  Flora  medal.  .  .    ,. 

Messrs.  R.  and  G.  Cuthbert,  Hrgbgate,  showed  half-a- 
dozen  vases  of  forced  Hyacinths,  King  of  the  Reds  and 
Sir  J.  Foxburgh  being  the  varieties  shown. 

Some  excellent  seedling  single  Chrysanthemums  were 
displayed  by  Mrs.  Gregory,  Shoreham  Cottage,  near  Seven- 
oaks,  in  colours  of  white,  bronze,  pink,  bluili,  cream  and 
other  shades.  ,  .    „     . 

Two  dozen  well-flowered  plants  of  Begotiia  Ensign  came 
from  Mr.  J.  A.  Dunn,  Combe  Cottage,  Kingston  Hill,  the 
plants  being  well  grown.    Bronze  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  H.  Cannell  and  Snns,  Swanley,  had  an  excellent 
exhibit  of  single  and  decorative  Chrysanthemums,  of 
which  Mars,  bronze ;  Yellow  Pagram  ;  Perfecta,  amaranth  ; 
Cannoll's  Whits  ;  Mrs.  Chas.  Willis,  like  a  red  Pyrethrum  ; 
and  Honeysuckle,  with  incurving  floret  tips,  represented 
the  best  of  the  single-flowered  varieties.  The  small 
yellow-flowered  Biby  Chrysanthemum  was  also  an  attrac- 
tion.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Pulton  and  Sons,  Reading,  showed  an  excellent 
strain  of  Primula  obconica  grandiflora,  which  included 
such  distinctive  varieties  as  Sutton's  Crimson  (very  flne  in 
ciilour)  and  Sutton's  Pure  White  and  Pink.  The  Pure 
White  is  excellent,  while  the  other  shades  are  equally 
important  in  their  way. 

Messrs.  G.  Williams  and  Sons,  Cardiff,  brought  single, 
large-flowertd  and  spidery  Chrysanthemums  in  variety. 
Bronze  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  Lilley,  Guernsey,  also  brought  many  single 
Chrysanthemums  in  various  shades  of  colour,  Befitting,  a 
red  bronze,  being  distinct.     Bronze  Flora  medal. 

Messrs.  William  Cutbush  and  Sons,  Higheate.  disnlayed 
a  very  flne  liit  of  Perpetual  Carnatiims  both  in  the  cut 
state  and  in  gic.wing  plants,  such  varieties  as  White 
Perfection,  C.  W.  Cowan  (crimson),  Mrs  Burnett.  May 
Day  (a  lovely  new  pink),  Helen  f  M.  Gould,  Mikado, 
Enchantress,  Beacon  (Ecarlet),  Lord  Brassey  (crimson 
purplel,  Grace  (iilbert  (yellow),  Winsor  (pink)  and  Aurora 
(yellow  and  scarlet)  being  among  the  best.  Silver  Flora 
medal. 

Messrs.  Butler  Brothers,  Bexley  Heath,  Kent,  had  a 
remarkably  well-grown  lot  of  dwarf  Chrysanthemums 
in  pots,  the  plants  being  not  more  than  18  inches  in 
height— Cannell's  Late  Prolific,  white;  Dazzle,  crimson; 
Niveus ;  Rose  Poitevine ;  D.  Warrior,  crimson ;  and 
Moneymaker,  white.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  H.  B.  iSIay  and  Sons,  Edmonton,  staged  a  large 
collection  of  Ferns  and  Selaginellas,  also  Carnations  and 
shrubby  Veronicas,  the  whole  making  a  group  of  consider- 
able interest  at  this  season.  The  Selaginellas  were  parti- 
cularly pleasing,  and  were  shown  in  great  variety.  Silver 
Flora  medal.  ,     ,.    , 

Mr.  Frank  Brazier,  Caterham,  Surrey,  had  a  large,  semi- 
circular group  of  Chrysanthemums  and  Michaelmas  Daisies 
on  the  floor,  large-flowered  and  single  varieties  of  the  first- 
named  being  shown  in  great  variety,  and  the  whole 
forming  a  very  pleasing  group.    Bronze  Flora  medal. 


SANDHURST,  YATELEY   &   DISTRICT   GARDENERS' 

ASSOCIATION. 
There  was  a  rather  small  attendance3of  members  at  the 
meeting  held  on  Tuesday,  November  16,  at  which  Mr. 
C  W  Goddard  presided.  Owing  to  the  unavoidable 
absence  of  Mr.  W.  Dennison  of  Easthampstead  Park 
Gardens,  who  was  to  have  given  a'paper  on  ' '  Stove  Plants," 
Mr  L  Dupond  of  The  Nurseries,  Crowthorne,  kindiv  filled 
the  breach  with  a  short  paper  on  "A  Few  Dark  Roses." 
This  was  listened  to  most  attentively  and  created  a  good 
discussion.  Those  taking  part  were  Messrs.  J.  Evans, 
C  W  Goddard,  M.  Goddard,  Chapman,  C.  Townsend,  C. 
Comley  and  Dean.  A  hearty  vote  of  thanks  was  passed  to 
Mr  Dupond  for  coming  forward  at  such  short  notice.  Mr. 
C  Comley,  Eagle  House  Gardens,  Sandhurst,  staged  some 
flne  specimens,- of  Improved  Blood  Red,  Pragnell's  Exhibi- 
into  and  Pell's  Crimson  Beetroots, 


Vlll. 


THE     GARDEN. 


[November  27,  1909. 


THE  SPRAYING  OF  FRUIT 
TREES. 

(Continued  from  November  IS.) 

THE  second  paper  read  was  by  Mr.  H.  F. 
Getting,  and  was  entitled  "  Spraying 
as  an  Insurance."  Mr.  Getting  re- 
marked that  as  his  experience  in- 
creased he  felt  more  strongly  the 
necessity  of  spraying  regularly,  not 
waiting  until  a  severe  fungus  or  insect  attack 
was  apparent,  but  with  very  few  exceptions  ;  in 
fact,  just  in  the  same  way  as  we  insured  ourselves 
or  our  property  against  various  risks.  He  said, 
as  a  rule,  when  the  attack  of  an  insect  or  fungus 
WHS  discovered  on  the  trees,  it  was  in  an  advanced 
stage,  which  rendered  it  more  difficult,  if  not 
impossible,  to  deal  with.  For  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  Plum  aphis,  Mr.  Getting  recom- 
mended that  the  trees  should  be  sprayed  once — 
better  twice — when  the  bloom-buds  are  swelling, 
so  as  to  destroy  as  many  of  the  mother  aphides  as 
possible.  The  Apple  blossom  aphis  should  also 
be  sprayed  before  the  flower-buds  burst,  for  the 
same  reason.  Then,  again,  with  Apple  scab, 
unless  the  trees  are  sprayed  before  coming  into 
bloom,  the  chances  are  against  effectually  check- 
ing an  attack.  With  regard  to  the  Apple  sucker, 
Mr.  Getting  said  that  he  had  not  been  able  to 
find  a  wash  that  was  really  effective  against  this 
pest ;  but  in  the  discussion  which  followed,  Dr. 
Gathergood  of  Wisbech  said  he  did  not  think 
we  should  find  much  trouble  from  the  Apple 
sucker  if  we  adopted  the  method  which  he  had 
found  very  successful.  With  the  first  dressing 
he  had  cleared  upwards  of  50  per  cent,  of  the 
Apple  sucker  the  first  year.  Last  year  he 
finished  it  off,  and  he  could  not  find  a  trace  of  it 
to-day  in  his  orchards.  The  wash  was  made  up 
as  follows :  31b.  of  caustic  soda,  31b.  of  caustic 
potash  and  about  a  gallon  of  petroleum  to  thirty 
gallons  of  water.  In  the  further  discussion 
which  followed  the  reading  of  the  papers, 
Mr.  Salmon  of  Wye  College,  speaking  of 
Bordeaux  mixture,  which  he  consideied  the  best 
fungicide  yet  invented,  said  he  thought  it  was 
not  perfect  and  not  always  effective  ;  but,  still, 
in  his  opinion,  it  was  so  far  the  nearest  approach 
to  the  perfect  fungicide.  As  to  the  best  time  to 
spray  with  this  fungicide — whether  in  winter, 
spring  or  summer— Mr.  Salmon  disagreed  with 
Mr.  Massee.  He  said  he  was  absolutely  certain 
that  no  commercial  grower  of  Apples  could  ever 
hope  to  combat  Apple  scab  without  spraying  in 
summer.  Mr.  Salmon  further  stated  that  he 
was  more  and  more  convinced  that  Apples  would 
never  be  grown  in  this  country  permanently 
clean,  at  least  many  varieties  of  them,  without 
continual  spraying.  Another  witness,  Mr. 
Neame,  gave  strong  evidence  in  favour  of  Bor- 
deaux mixture  as  a  fungicide.  He  said  he  first 
used  it  five  or  six  years  ago  on  a  few  trees  which 
hitherto  for  two  consecutive  years  had  borne 
hardly  any  sound  fruit.  The  first  year  he 
sprayed  his  trees  once  before  blossoming  and  twice 
afterwards.  That  year  he  had  a  fairly  sound 
crop,  and  for  the  last  three  years  he  had  had  a 
good  sound  crop  with  hardly  any  scab  on  them. 
According  to  Mr.  Neame's  experience,  spraying 
was  much  more  effective  when  practised  in  summer 
than  in  iwinter.  .The  first  should  be  applied 
before  the  flower-buds  expand  and  the  second 
after  the  bloom  has  fallen. 

Mr.  Getting  mentioned  a  very  simple  remedy 
for  the  destruction  of  the  mealy  aphis  which  may 
be;  useful  to  many  readers  of  The  G.\rdkn, 
namely,  a  solution  of  soft  soap  and  12oz.  of  liver 
of  sulphur  to  100  gallons  of  water.  Mr.  Salmon 
drew  attention  to  an  American  wash  as  being 
most  effective  in  the  destruction  of  fungus.  It 
has  the  added  advantage,  as  proved  by  Mr. 
Massee,  of  not  doing  any  harm  even  to  the 
tender  foliage  of  a  Peach  tree.  It  is  made  up  an 
follows :  101b.  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  l.'ilb.  of 
stone  lime,  dissolved  in  fifty  gallons  of  water  ; 
nine  or  ten  gallons  of  water,  more  or  less,  are 


added  to  the  lime  and  sulphur  to  dissolve  it  and 
to  bring  it  up  to  the  boiling  point,  then  dilute  it 
to  fifty  gallons. 

We  presume  that  the  clear  water  of  this  wash 
only  is  used  after  the  lime  and  sulphur  have 
formed  a  deposit  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel. 
Seeing  that  it  is  spoken  of  in  such  high  terms  as 
a  deadly  fungicide,  it  seems  to  us  that  we  have 
a  very  valuable  agent  in  this  as  a  summer  wash 
for  the  destruction  of  mildew  and  other  forms  of 
fungus,  especially  as  it  is  said  that  it  cannot 
harm  even  the  foliage  of  a  tender  Peach  tree. 
Many  speakers  laid  great  emphasis  on  the  im- 
portance of  spraying  against  fungus  just  as  the 
blossom-buds  were  about  to  open  and  again  after 
they  had  fallen,  taking  the  precaution,  of  course, 
to  ascertain  that  the  solution  applied  was  not 
strong  enough  to  injure  the  young  embryo  fruits 
and  the  tender  leaf-growth.  Sir.  Crook  mentioned 
that  by  the  application  of  a  well-known  wash, 
somewhat  weakly,  before  any  trace  of  insects 
appeared,  it  was  easy  to  keep  the  trees  clean  by 
one  or  two  applications  during  the  year.  Will 
Mr.  Crook  oblige  by  giving  the  name  of  the  wash 
and  the  time  to  apply  it  ?  X.  Y.  Z. 

( To  he  continued. ) 


BOOKS. 


The    National    Rose    Society's 

CatalOgrue  of  Roses.— This  useful,  well- 
bound  little  book  has  appeared  in  a  revised  form, 
and,  of  course,  with  the  increasing  number  of 
new  Roses,  fresh  publication  is  necessary  from 
time  to  time.  In  the  preface  it  is  mentioned 
that  "the  present  edition  of  the  society's  official 
catalogue  follows  the  lines  of  the  1906  edition, 
which  was  compiled  to  meet  the  requirements  of 
amateur  Rose-growers  generally,  by  giving  in  a 
convenient  form  a  list  of  the  more  reliable 
varieties  now  in  cultivation,  together  with  a 
brief  description  of  each  and  the  purposes  for 
which  it  is  more  particularly  adapted.  Since 
the  last  edition  was  issued  many  new  Roses 
have  been  introduced.  A  selection  from  them 
has  been  made,  and  at  the  same  time  some  of  the 
older  varieties  have  been  eliminated.  In 
addition,  the  whole  catalogue  has  been  carefully 
revised  in  order  that  the  present  edition  might 
be  brought  up  to  date  and  rendered  more  useful 
to  the  society's  members  generally.  The  selec- 
tions for  various  purposes  at  the  end  of  the  book 
have  also  been  carefully  revised,  and  some  of  the 
best  of  the  newer  varieties  introduced  into 
them."  The  arrangement  of  the  book  is  excel- 
lent and  the  lists  set  out  clearly,  so  that  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  finding  out  the  best  varieties 
for  certain  purposes.  Here  is  ft  short  list,  for 
instance,  of  "Sweetly  Scented  Roses":  Alfred 
Colomb  (H.P.),  Cherry  Ripe(H.T.),  Commandant 
F^lix  Faure  (H.P.),  common  Provence  (Prov. ), 
Dupuy  Jamain  (H.P.),  Exposition  de  Brie 
(H.P.),  General  Jacqueminot  (H.P.),  Heinrich 
Schultheis  (H.P.),  Johanna  Sebus  (H.T.),  La 
France  (H.T.),  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire  (B.),  Marie 
Baumann  (H.P. ),  Mrs.  John  Laing  (H.P. ),  Paul 
Jamain  (H.P. ),  Rosa  Mundi  (Gallica),  S^nateur 
Vaisse  (H.P.),  Ulrich  Brunner  (H.P.)  and 
Z^pherine  Drouhin  (H.B.).  The  catalogue  has 
been  revised  by  a  committee  of  the  National 
Rose  Society.  Its  price  to  non-members — but 
it  must  be  purchased  through  a  member — is  half- 
a-crowu. 
Spplngr    Flowers    at    Belvoir 

Castle. — One  of  the  most  beautiful  develop- 
ments in  gardening  within  our  recollection  has 
been  the  bringing  into  the  flower  garden  plants 
that  attain  their  highest  beauty  in  the  spring 
months  of  the  year — Pansies,  Polyanthuses, 
Auriculas,  Daisies,  Wallflowers  and  many  other 
kinds  that  one  cherishes  for  their  freedom  of 
growth  and  of  bloom.  The  foundations,  so  to 
say,  of  this  garden  were  laid — we  think  we  are 
correct  in  stating — by  the  late  Mr.  Ingram,  when 
gardener  to  the  Duke  of  Rutland  ;  but  the  work 


has  been  more  fully  perpetuated  by  the  present 
superintendent,  Mr.  W.  H.  Divers,  who  is  the 
author  of  this  instructive  and  charming  treatise. 
Thousands  of  plants  are  grouped  in  various  parts 
of  the  grounds,  such  as  the  Duchess's  Garden, 
the  Castle  Garden  and  other  positions,  and  it  is 
worth  a  long  journey  to  the  enthusiast  to  see 
the  charming  arrangements  of  plants  grouped 
with  a  view  to  a  beautiful  colour  effect.  It  is  a 
book  that  will  repay  careful  study,  and  the  many 
illustrations  are  of  much  merit.  We  congratulate 
Mr.  Divers  in  giving  us  in  a  concise  form  so  many 
carefully-thought-out  hints  for  the  purpose  of 
both  showing  what  has  been  accomplished  at 
Belvoir  and  instilling  the  same  love  in  the  minda 
of  others. 


"  Country  Life  "  for  November  27  contains, 
among  other  articles,  an  illustrated  account  of 
Erddig  Park,  Denbighshire  ;  "  Tale  of  Country 
Life:  The  Golden  Ring,"  by  Bertram  Smith; 
"In  the  Garden";  "Field-Mice  and  Their 
Natural  Enemies"  (illustrated),  by  Frances  Pitt; 
"The  Family  of  Hicks-Beach";  "The  Hoop- 
maker"  (illustrated),  by  Walter  Raymond. 

Banbury  and  District  Gar- 
deners' Association.  —  At  the  third 
fortnightly  meeting  of  the  above  association, 
held  on  the  19th  inst.  in  the  White  Horse 
Hotel,  Banbury,  the  Mayor  of  Banbury  (presi- 
dent) presided  over  a  well-attended  meeting. 
A  paper  was  given  on  "Chrysanthemums :  Their 
Culture  in  General,"  by  Mr.  J.  Brighton,  head- 
gardener  to  J.  F.  Starkey,  Esq.,  Bodicote,  who, 
in  the  course  of  his  paper,  gave  some  very 
interesting  and  instructive  hints  on  the  growing, 
&c. ,  of  this  beautiful  flower  for  both  decorative 
and  show  purposes,  a  short  discussion  following 
the  reading  of  the  paper.  The  customary  vote 
of  thanks  to  the  lecturer  and  chairman  then 
concluded  the  meeting. 

Presentation. — Mr.  William  Hutchinson, 
gardenertoD.  Tod,  Esq. ,  Eastwood  Park,  Giffnook, 
N.B.,  having  been  appointed  gardener  to  C.  E. 
Galbraith,  Esq. ,  Terregles,  Dumfries,  the  directors 
of  the  Glasgow  and  West  of  Scotland  Horticul- 
tural Society  have  presented  him  with  a  hand- 
some tea  service.  The  presentation  was  made 
at  a  social  meeting  presided  over  by  Mr.  L'agg, 
chairman  of  the  directors,  who  made  the  presen- 
tation. Mr.  Dagg  made  feeling  reference  to  the 
departure  of  Mr.  Hutchinson,  and  spoke  of  the 
many  services  rendered  to  horticulture  in  the 
West  by  him.  In  many  ways  he  had  been  most 
helpful,  and  not  the  least  was  that  in  which  he 
had  been  of  special  service  to  them — the  assistance 
he  had  rendered  in  the  affairs  of  the  Glasgow 
and  West  of  Scotland  Horticultural  Society,  of 
which  he  was  vice-chairman.  He  and  all  the 
members  wished  Mr.  Hutchinson  every  success 
in  the  important  charge  to  which  he  had  been 
appointed. 

Publications  Received. 

The  Christmas  Number  of  the  Strand  Magazine  is  brimful 
of  interesting  artioks  and  illustrations.  It  Is  a  double 
number,  and  well  worth  the  price— Is.  This  famous 
magazine  maintains  a  remarliable  level  standard  of 
excellence. 

Woman  at  Hume  has  also  issued  a  double  Christmas 
Number,  and  a  praiseworthy  production  it  Is.  The 
articles  are  not  only  interesting,  conveying  much  useful 
and  seasonable  information,  but  the  illustrations  are  of 
conspicuous  merit.  This  magazine,  of  which  the  number 
before  us  is  one  of  the  new  series,  improves  each  month 
(iid.  net). 

Frij'-i',Slaga;ine— the  December  number— is  of  the  greatest 
interest  to  those  who  care  for  sport  in  one  or  other  of 
its  branches,  and  this  issue  is  one  of  the  best  that  we 
have  seen  (6d.  net).  All  these  publications  are  issued 
by  the  lirm  of  Messrs.  George  Newnes  and  Co.,  Limited, 
Southampton  Street,  Strand,  London. 


Erratum. 


In  tlie  reply  to  "  Anxious  "  (iiage  ri72)  Euonymus  europseus 
is  rerommeiided  as  an  edging  plant ;  it  should  read 
Euonymus  radicans. 


♦,*  The  Yearly  Subscripttmi  to  THE  GARDEN  «» :  Inland, 
6s.  ed.  ;  Foreign,  St.  9d. 


GARDEN. 


-j^ 


■M-^f 


-i,.^ii^:S^ 


No.  1985.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


December  4,  1909. 


OONTBNTS. 


What  to  Do  When 
Plants  are  Frozen 

Watercress  and  its 
culture       

KOTES  OF  THB  WEEK 

Forthcoming  events 

C0EKB3P0HDBH0K 

Workers     amonz    tiie 

flowers :     Peter 

Eu Jolph  Barr   . .     . . 

Trees  and  Shrubs 

Rhodoiiendron  llodg- 

sonii 588 

Climljing  plants   for 
planting  now. .     .. 
Rose  Oarden 
Notes    on     newer 

Roses.— XI 

KrroHEN  Oarpen 
Tile  value  of  Celery 
as  a  vegetable 
FT.OWKR  Gardes 
Naturalising    Cro- 
cuses in  grass 
Sweet  Pea  chat 
Brachyglottis    re- 
panda    in     New 
Zealand 6!)0 


5S.5 


585 


687 


688 


689 


689 
689 


Flowbe  Garden 
Another    quickly 
made  garden  ..     .. 
Coloured  Plate 
The     Chapman 

Freesias 500 

Gardehiho  for  Besinnesb 
Garden  work  week  by 

week 

What    to    do     with 

Chrysanthemums 

after  flowering 

Bulbs    in    bowls    tor 

decoration     . .     . . 

The  towh  Gardes  .. 

GABDEliniO  OF  IHB  WEEK 

For  the   South   and 

Sonth  Midlands    . .    594 
For  the  North    and 
North  Midland!  ..    694 

New  plants 594 

Answers     id    Corre- 
spohdehtb 
Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Rose  garden 
Miscellaneous  . . 

SOOrETIES    . .   . . 


590 


592 


592 


693 


695 
696 
605 
695 
696 


ILilrUSTRATIONB. 

Mr.  Peter  Rudolph  Barr       687 

A  small  plant  of  Rhododendron  Hodgsonii 588 

Crocuses  naturalised  in  grass  in  a  sunny  position      . .    589 

Wharangi-tawhito  bloom 690 

The  Chapman  Freesias Coloured  plate 

Flowers  bordered  with  turf 591 

An  amateur's  Rose  pergola 591 

What  to  do  with  Chrysanthemums  after  flowering    692,  593 


BDITORIAL.    NOTICBS. 

Every  depa/rtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
G-AADEN,  a/nd  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  toish  advice  from 
competent  autlwrities.  With  that  ot^ect  he  wishes  to  make 
the  **  Answers  to  Correspondents"  columns  a  conspicuous 
featit/re,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
toill  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  cormrvunications  m/ust  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  accompanied  by  na/me  a/nd  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles  a/nd  notes, 
but  he  wiU  not  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  All 
reasonable  care,  however,  toill  be  taken,  and,  where  stamvps 
are  enclosed,  he  vrill  endeavour  to  return  non-accepted 
contributioTis. 

As  regards  photographs,  if  payment  be  desired,  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  price  required  for  reprodxuition  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  owner  of  the  copyright  toill  be 
treated  vnth.  __^ 

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributioTis  which  he  may  not  be  able  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  of  a  proof  muM  Tiot  be  taken  as  evidence 
that  a/n  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  The  GARDEN 
will  alone  be  recognised  as  acceptance. 


Offices:  to.  Twiitock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C 


WHAT     TO     DO     WHEN 
PLANTS    ARE    FROZEN. 

DURING  the  winter  months  the  amateur 
k  in  gardening  has  much  to  contend 
I  with,  and  not  the  least  of  the  evils  to 
'  be  feared  is  frost,  especially  where 
an  endeavour  is  being  made  to  keep 
more  or  less  tender  plants  through  the  cold,  dull 
months  in  a  poorly  heated  greenhouse  or  frame. 
Every  year,  as  soon  as  severe  frost  occurs,  some 
enthusiast  is  caught  napping,  with  the  result  that 
a  whole  house  or  f  rameful  of  more  or  less  valuable 
plants  are  destroyad. 

Fortunately,  science  has  come  to  our  aid  and 
taught  us  a  few  things  concerning  the  effects  of 
frost  on  tender  plants,  and  with  these  principles 
fully  grasped  we  are  in  a  position  to  combat  frost 
on  its  own  ground,  so  to  speak.  Science  has 
taught  us,  and  practice  has  confirmed  the  theory, 
that  plants  which  are  kept  as  dry  as  possible 
during  a  spell  of  frosty  weather,  without  being 
allowed  to  suffer  from  this  cause,  will  withstand 
suoceasfuUj  far  more  frost  than  the  same  kind  of 
plants  whose  tissues  are  gorged  with  liquid,  and 
science  has  also  taught  us  that  the  greatest 
mischief  is  caused  by  rapid  thawing. 

To  thoroughly  grasp  the  above  facts  it  may  be  as 
well,  before  proceeding  further,  to  just  consider 
briefly  what  really  happens  when  a  plant  gets 
frozen.  It  is  now  generally  known  that  a  plant, 
like  the  human  body,  is  made  up  of  tiny  cells, 
each  of  which,  of  course,  has  its  own  walls. 
Under  ordinary  conditions,  and  when  a  plant  has 
abundance  of  moisture  at  its  disposal,  these  cells 
are  turgid  with  liquid.  Now,  when  liquid 
becomes  frozen  it  is  one  of  the  laws  of  Nature 
that  expansion  takes  place,  and  in  the  case  of 
that  in  the  plant  cells  no  exception  to  this  law  is 
made.  This  expansion,  then,  results  in  a  rupture 
of  the  plant  cell  walls,  which,  under  ordinary  con- 
ditions of  thawing,  oiuses  the  plant  to  collapse. 

It  has  been  stated  above  that  plants  which  are 
kept  as  dry  as  possible  during  frosty  weather  do 
not  suiiar  so  much  by  being  frozen  as  others  of 
the  same  kind  which  are  well  supplied  with 
water,  and  the  reason  is  that  the  cells  are  not 
nearly  so  full  of  liquid,'^and  consequently,  when 
that  which  is  present  becomes  frozen,  there  is 
more  room  for  expansion  and  the  rupture  is  not 
so  extensive  or  disastrous. 

It  has  been  proved  that  when  a  plant  is 
thawed  very  slowly  the  plant  cells  are  able 
to  absorb  the  moisture  which  has  been  forced  by 
expansion  through  the  cell  walls,  and  the  rupture 
is  to  a  great  extent  made  good ;  hence  in  practice 
we  try  to  thaw  our  plants  as  slowly  as  possible, 
so  that  the  smallest  amount  of  harm  possible 
shall  accrue. 


We  now  stand  on  clear  ground  as  to  the  reason 
why  frost  damages  our  plants,  and,  consequently, 
we  can  take  intelligent  measures  to  prevent  the 
mischief.  Assuming  that  the  plants  have  not 
been  watered  more  often  than  is  absolutely 
necessary,  and  that  one  morning  we  visit  the 
greenhouse  or  frames  to  find  that  frost  has 
reached  them,  we  know  that  if  they  are  to  be 
saved  thawing  must  be  done  very  slowly.  First 
of  all,  we  must  take  care  that  the  heating 
apparatus,  if  any  is  used,  does  not  get  into 
working  order  again,  and  if  there  is  any  likeli- 
hood of  a  burst  of  sunshine,  shade  the  structure 
with  thick  mats  or  anything  else  that  can  be 
quickly  secured.  Then  procure  an  abundant 
supply  of  ice-cold  water  and  syringe  or  otherwise 
drench  the  plants  with  this  until  frost  is  gradually 
removed  from  the  tissues.  This  will  probably 
mean  very  cold  hands  and  chattering  teeth,  but 
it  is  either  this  or  losing  the  plants.  For  several 
days  subsequently  the  plants  should  be  kept  as 
cool  as  possible  without  allowing  frost  to  again 
reach  them. 

With  outdoor  plants  which  are  not  quite  hardy 
it  is  not,  of  course,  possible  to  keep  them  dry  at 
the  roots,  but  this  does  not  matter  so  much,  as 
they  are  usually  resting  and  the  cells  are  not 
likely  to  be  swollen  with  liquid.  Slow  thawing 
is,  however,  just  as  essential  as  with  indoor 
plants,  and  any  protecting  material  which  has 
been  used  ought  not,  on  any  account,  to  be 
removed  until  frost  has  slowly  departed  from  the 
plants. 


WATERCRESS    AND    ITS 
CULTURE. 

Of  the  many  salads  available  for  use  in  spring 
none  is  more  welcome  or  useful  than  the  lowly, 
pungent  Watercress  ;  yet  how  seldom  we  find  it 
cultivated  in  gardens  even  where  facilities  for 
doing  so  naturally  exist.  Those  who  only  know 
this  salad  by  the  material  bought  from  the  green- 
grocer have  no  idea  of  the  crispness  and  delight- 
ful freshness  of  newly  gathered,  unbruised  heads 
which  have  been  grown  in  clean  spring  water. 
If  for  no  other  reason,  the  filthy  conditions  under 
which  a  vast  amount  of  Watercress  is  grown  for 
market  should  induce  all  those  who  have  a  little 
stream  of  spring  water  available  to  form  beds 
and  grow  their  own  material,  and  usually  any 
that  is  to  spare  finds  a  ready  sale  among  those 
who  appreciate  fresh,  cleanly  grown  heads. 

I  am  fully  aware  that  some  people  grow 
Watercress  without  water,  and  it  is  not  a  very 
difficult  task  to  do  so,  but  the  heads  obtained 
thus  are  usually  strong  and  tough,  and  scarcely 
worth  the  trouble  entailed,  slight  though  it  may 
be,  in  producing  them.  Given  a  running,  shallow 
stream  of  clean  water,  however,  a  supply  of  first- 
class  material  may  be  had  practically  for  the 
picking,  once  the  initial  cost  of  preparation  and 
planting  has  been  defrayed.     As  the  present  is 


586 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[December  I,  1909. 


a  good  time  to  prepare  the  beds,  a  few  hints  as  to 
how  the  work  should  be  done  may  be  useful  to 
other  readers.  At  the  outset  I  should  like  to  say 
that  in  the  majority  of  oases  the  elaborate  stone 
or  brickwork  constructions  sometimes  met  with 
are  absolutely  unnecessary  and  frequently  prove 
an  eyesore  to  the  owner. 

In  dealing  with  the  preparation  of  the  beds  I  can- 
not do  better  than  describe  one  that  has  proved 
most  successful,  and,  in  addition  to  providing  the 
house  with  salad  nearly  the  whole  year  round, 
yields  a  good  profit  on  the  surplus  which  is  sold. 

Originally  the  site  of  the  beds  was  a  narrow 
ditch,  scarcely  more  that  a  foot  wide,  running 
alongside  the  kitchen  garden,  down  which  ran  a 
small  stream  of  spring  water,  which  came  from  a 
deep  drain  that  emptied  a  natural  spring  from  a 
hilly  field  close  by,  so  that  there  was  no  question 
as  to  its  purity.  When  it  was  decided  to  turn 
this  narrow  ditch  into  Watercress  beds,  the  first 
task  was  to  widen  it,  and  when  this  was  completed 
the  stream  was  about  5  feet  wide  and  not  more 
than  2  inches  deep.  Subsequent  events  proved 
that  this  depth  was  not  suiEoient  to  give  the 
best  results,  and  it  was  eventually  made  nearly 
6  inches  deep,  and  this  gave  excellent  returns. 
After  the  widening  and  levelling  of  the  bottom, 
some  rough,  thick  poles  were  placed  aaross  at 
intervals  of  5  feet,  each  one,  working  down  stream, 
being  placed  at  a  lower  level  than  its  predecessor, 
so  that  when  finished  the  whole  stream  was 
divided  into  sections  roughly  5  feet  square. 
These  rough  poles  were  well  puddled  with  stiff 
clay,  so  that  water  could  not  flow  beneath  them 
nor  round  their  ends,  and,  where  necessary,  a 
deep  groove  or  two  were  out  in  their  upper 
surfaces  to  allow  the  water  to  run  freely  from 
one  section  to  another.  Failing  these  poles, 
stout  planks  stood  on  edge  and  fixed  with  stakes 
would  answer  as  well.  The  objects  in  doing  this 
were  to  check  the  swift  flow  of  the  water,  which 
at  times  would  have  washed  the  roots  away,  and 
also  to  keep  the  water  in  each  section  at  a 
uniform  depth  and  to  keep  the  sand  used  from 
being  washed  away.  Incidentally  they  made 
excellent  resting-places  for  a  plank,  which  was 
used  to  stand  upon  when  gathering  the  heads. 
When  it  was  found  necessary  to  make  the  water 
deeper  the  obstructions  were  raised. 

After  the  beds  had  been  so  far  prepared,  the 
work  was  left  for  a  few  days  until  the  water  had 
become  clear,  and  a  good  layer  of  sand  was  then 
placed  in  the  bottom  of  each  and  all  was  ready 
for  the  plants.  Planting  was  done  in  early 
spring.  A  stream  not  far  away  contained  some 
wild  plants,  and  these  were  requisitioned,  the 
deficiency  being  made  up  by  a  supply  of  more  or 
less  mangled  heads  from  the  greengrocer.  These 
were  simply  dropped  in  the  beds  about  a  foot 
apart  and  left  to  look  after  themselves.  In  the 
course  of  a  few  weeks  the  beds  were  yielding  a 
good  supply,  and  since  that  time  (nine  years 
ago)  little  attention  has  been  needed  beyond 
keeping  weeds  down  and  giving  the  plants  an 
occasional  hard  cutting  over  during  the  summer 
to  prevent  them  going  to  seed.  E.  M.  1). 


NOTES    OF=^HE    WEEK. 

FOKTHCOMING  EVENTS. 

December  7. — Royal  Horticultural  Society's 
Exhibition  of  Flowers  and  Fruit,  Vincent  Square, 
Westminster,  1 — 5  p.m. 

December  8. — Perpetual  Flowering  Carnation 
Society's  Exhibition,  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent 
Square,  Westminster,  1 — 5  p.m. 

Dates  of  show  flxtupes.— As  usual, 
we  shall,  with  the  first  number  of  the  new  year, 
give  a  calendar,  and  we  shall  be  greatly  obliged  if 
secretaries  of  horticultural  societies  who  have  not 
already  done  so  will  send  us  the  dates  of  their 
shows.  They  should  be  sent  in  as  early  as  possible. 

'Viotopia  Medal  of  Honour. —  The 
president  and  council  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  have  appointed  Mr.  W.  Betting  Hemsley, 


F.R.S.  ;  Mr.  A.  Maekellar,  head -gardener  to 
His  Majesty  the  King,  Frogmore  ;  and  Mr.  J.  H. 
Goodacre,  head-gardener  to  the  Earl  of  Harring- 
ton, Elvaston,  Derby,  to  fill  the  vacancies  existing 
in  the  roll  of  Victoria  Medallists  of  Honour. 

Peterhead    Hoptioultupal 

Society. — At  the  annual  meeting  of  this 
society  the  directors  reported  that  Mr.  A.  Clark 
Martin,  who  has  been  secretary  and  treasurer 
since  the  society  was  eetablished  eleven  years 
ago,  was  unable  to  oflFer  himself  for  re-election 
owing  to  the  increase  of  his  professional  duties, 
and  the  society  agreed  to  record  in  the  minutes 
an  expression  of  their  appreciation  of  his  services 
and  regret  at  his  resignation.  Mr.  1).  Youngson 
was  appointed  his  successor. 

National  Rose  Society's  annual 

meeting'. — The  annual  general  meeting  of  the 
members  of  the  National  Rose  Society  will  be 
held  at  the  Westminster  Palace  Hotel,  Victoria 
Street,  Westminster,  on  Thursday,  December  9, 
at  2.30  p.m.,  when  some  business  of  a  rather 
important  nature  will  be  dealt  with.  Instead  of 
the  annual  dinner,  which  has  hitherto  been  held 
after  this  meeting,  a  conversazione  will  this  year 
be  held  at  the  Westminster  Palace  Hotel  at 
4.30  p.m.  on  the  date  of  the  annual  meeting. 
Each  member  of  the  society  is  entitled  to  one 
free  ticket  for  this,  and  can  purchase  others  for 
friends  at  2s.  each,  application  for  these  to  be 
made  to  the  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  E.  Mawley, 
V.M.H.,  Rosebank,  Berkhamsted,  Herts,  on  or 
before  December  4. 

An  Intepestlng  hoptlcultupal  ex- 
hibition at  Reading.— As  will  be  seen 
by  a  report  in  another  column,  the  members  of 
the  Reading  and  District  Gardeners'  Association 
celebrated  their  twenty-first  anniversary  by 
holding  an  almost  unique,  and  certainly  very 
beautiful,  exhibition  of  flowers  and  vegetables. 
The  novel  point  about  the  exhibition  was  that 
no  prizes  were  offered,  yet  the  display  was  an 
exceedingly  good  one,  doubtless  on  account  of 
the  profits  being  intended  for  the  Gardeners' 
Royal  Benevolent  Institution  and  the  Gardeners' 
Royal  Orphan  Fund.  This  method  of  assisting 
these  two  splendid  institutions  is  a  most  praise- 
worthy one  and  might  well  be  imitated  by  other 
gardening  societies.  Such  exhibitions  also  prove 
that  much  high-class  gardening  is  done  more  for 
the  love  of  the  work  than  for  the  winning  of  prizes. 

Sweet  Pea  tplals   fop  1910.— The 

committee  of  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Societ3' 
will  hold  its  annual  series  of  trials  at  the  Times 
Experimental  Station,  Ladygrove  Farm,  near 
Guildford,  in  1910,  and  will  test  novelties  and 
grant  awards  and  certificates  according  to  merit. 
No  awards  or  certificates  will  be  granted  to 
Sweet  Peas  unless  they  are  sent  for  trial  at 
Guildford.  For  these  trials  the  varieties  will  be 
accepted  only  from  the  raiser  or  introducer  ;  a 
charge  of  2s.  fid.  for  each  variety  will  be  made. 
At  the  request  of  numerous  seedsmen  the  com- 
mittee will  conduct  a  further  and  distinct  trial 
solely  for  the  purpose  of  testing  correctness  and 
purity  of  stocks  of  Sweet  Peas.  A  charge  of  .53. 
per  variety  of  stock  sent  for  trial  will  be  made. 
Sweet  Peas  for  these  trials  must  reach  Mr.  C. 
Foster,  Ladygrove  Farm,  near  Guildford,  not 
later  than  January  15,  1910.  For  the  novelty 
trials  not  less  than  fifteen  seeds  should  be  sent, 
and  for  the  purity  trials  not  less  than  two  dozen 
seeds  of  each  variety  or  stock.  At  the  same  time 
a  list  of  the  varieties,  together  with  the  amount 
due  for  trial  charges,  should  be  sent  to  the  hon. 
secretary,  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis,  Adelaide  Road, 
Brentford,  Middlesex.  The  proceedings  of  the 
Floral  Committee  will  be  printed  in  the  autumn 
of  19111,  and  a  copy  will  be  sent  to  every  person  or 
firm  sending  seeds  to  either  or  both  of  the  sets  of 
trials.  Novelties  will  be  received  under  number, 
although  names  are  much  preferred.  Any  variety 
meriting  an  award  must,  if  under  number,  be 
named  before  such  award  can  be  granted. 
National    Sweet     Pea    Society's 

annual  meeting. — The  annual  general 
meeting  of  the  members  of  the  above  society  is 


to  be  held  in  the  North  Room,  Hotel  Windsor, 
Victoria  Street,  Westminster,  on  Friday, 
December  10,  at  3  p.m.  A  proposed  new  rule  is  : 
"  That  members  of  committee  who  make  fewer 
than  two  attendances  during  the  year  shall  not 
be  eligible  for  re-election  the  following  year."  A 
Sweet  Pea  conference  will  also  be  held  at  the 
Hotel  Windsor  on  the  above  date,  commencing 
at  7  p.  m. ,  when  the  following  papers  will  be  read  : 
"  The  Imperfect  Seeding  of  Waved  Sweet  Peas," 
by  Mr.  William  Cuthbertson,  J. P.  ;  and  "Sweet 
Pea  Names  and  Naming,"  by  Mr.  W.  J.  Unwin. 
For  the  convenience  of  members,  dinner  will  be 
provided  at  the  Hotel  Windsor  at  5.30  p.m.  on 
the  above  date.  Tickets  5s.  each  (exclusive  of 
wine).  Application  for  tickets  must  be  made 
to  the  hon.  secretary,  Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis,  Adelaide 
Road,  Brentford,  Middlesex,  not  later  than 
December  9. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  reaponailU  jor  the    opinions 
expresasd  by  correspondents.) 


Climbingr  plants  and  buildings. 

The  relation  of  plants  to  buildings  has  in  the 
broad  sense  received  a  considerable  amount  of 
attention  from  those  qualified  to  speak  on  both 
sides  ;  but  the  subject  has  various  ramifications, 
and  the  article  "  On  Plants  for  the  Walls  of 
Houses  Possessing  Architectural  Merit,"  which 
was  reprinted  from  Country  Life  in  The  Gardbn 
for  November  13  (page  552),  treats  of  one  of  those 
ramifications  which  is  of  much  interest  both  to 
architects,  antiquaries  and  gardeners,  as  well  as 
to  lovers  of  plants  generally.  In  considering 
architectural  merit,  we  have  as  varied  and  exten- 
sive a  field  before  us  as  we  have  in  the  selection 
of  the  plants  themselves,  or  perhaps  more  so. 
Even  if  we  take  the  "walls  of  houses  "  to  mean 
domestic  architecture  alone,  the  varied  styles 
and  frequent  embellishments  should  be  a  matter 
of  thought  how  best  to  preserve  them,  not  only 
from  destruction  from  the  overgrowth  of  plants 
such  as  Ivy,  but  also  to  prevent  them  from  being 
hidden  from  view.  But  the  complete  question 
goes  far  beyond  that  of  domestic  architecture, 
whether  ancient  or  modern.  Thus,  ancient 
buildings  of  great  architectural  merit,  especially 
churches,  are  often  seen  covered  by  a  dense 
growth  of  Ivy,  completely  hiding  and  often 
ruining  the  stonework  beneath,  and  frequently 
destroying,  it  may  be,  some  beautiful  mouldings 
or  other  decorations.  It  is  in  this  respect  that 
the  Ivy  has  been  for  too  long  the  dominant 
plant,  and  has  been  allowed  to  take  possession 
of  such  a  large  number  of  our  architectural 
treasures,  whether  sacred  or  secular.  The 
matted  root-fibres,  which  so  often  cover  walls 
like  so  many  inches  of  felt,  are  a  fruitful  source 
of  internal  damp  and  destruction  generally,  so 
that  it  is  quite  time  some  real  attention  should 
be  given  to  this  question  of  suitable  plants  as 
climbers  on  buildings.  It  seems  to  me,  how- 
ever, that  the  writer  of  the  article  referred  to, 
while  denouncing  the  Ivy  and  Virginian  Creeper, 
is  inclined  to  go  to  another  extreme  in  recom- 
mending such  hard  woody-stemmed  plants  as 
the  well-known  and  beautiful  plant  Crat<egus 
Pyracantha  Lelandii,  Magnolia  grandiflora, 
Myrtus  communis.  Wistaria  and  others.  For 
absolutely  bare  walls  such  plants  are  eminently 
suited  ;  but  where  anything  of  the  nature  of 
architectural  ornament  exists,  it  would  be  most 
difficult  to  train  these  plants.  Everything 
really  depends  on  the  style  of  architecture  of  the 
building  to  be  treated,  and  the  plants  must  be 
considered  as  subservient  to  their  surroundings. 
Thus,  on  the  walls  or  keep  of  a  Norman  castle, 
where  no  decoration  exists.  Ivy  would  seem  to 
be  in  its  proper  place  so  long  as  it  is  kept  within 
its  proper  bounds  ;  but  on  an  elaborate  cathedral 
or  other  church  of  the  Norman,  Early  English, 
Decorative  or  Perpendicular  periods.  Ivy, 
Virginian  Creeper  or  any  of  the  woody-stemmed 


December  4,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


587 


plants  should  not  be  admitted.  The  writer  of 
the  article  is  fully  cognisant  of  the  neoeesity  of 
keeping  such  unruly  plants  within  bounds,  and 
his  advice  is  to  train  and  prune,  advice  that  should 
be  taken  more  often  than  it  is  ;  but  in  the  matter 
of  ornate  buildings,  particularly  those  of  the 
three  later  styles  of  Gothic,  it  would  undoubtedly 
be  found  the  better  plan  to  admit  only  such 
plants  of  a  more  slender  growth  as  will  add  to 
the  general  appearance  without  covering  the 
slightest  detail  of  architectural  decoration.  A 
few  years  ago  this  matter  was  taken  up  very 
intelligently  and  thoroughly  by  Mr.  W.  D.  Caroe, 
the  eminent  architect,  and  formed  the  subject  of 
a  paper  read  before  one  of  the  learned  societies 
in  London — if  I  remember  rightly,  the  Society  of 
British  Architects.  In  that  paper  Mr.  Cariie 
strongly  recommended  that  climbing  plants  on 
buildings  should  be  selected  from  those  possessing 
slender  stems,  small  foliage  and  closely  clinging 
properties,  and  such  as  oould  easily  be  removed 
when  trespassing  over  any  fine  tracery,  mouldings 
or  carved  work.  These  properties,  he  said,  were 
best  to  be  found  in  Vitis  inconstans,  better  known 
as  Ampelopsis  Veitchii. — ^John  R.  Jackson, 
Olartmont,  Lympaione,  Devon. 

Plantingr  bulbs  In  the  srass.— I 
read  with  interest  "  D.  B.  C.'s"  article  in  The 
Garden  on  this  fascinating  subject,  and  as  I 
have  made  a  study  of  this  method  of  gardening,  I 
think  your  readers  may  like  to  have  the 
result  of  my  experiments  with  various  kinds  of 
bulbous  and  other  spring-flowering  plants.  The 
soil  here  is  a  good  loam  to  a  depth  of  IS  inches  to 
2  feet,  mostly  over  clay.  Taking,  first  of  all,  the 
Snowdrop,  I  have  found  this  most  difficult  to 
manage  and  most  uncertain.  I  have  moved  it  at 
all  times  of  the  year.  I  have  carefully  lifted, 
dried,  and  as  carefully  planted  many  thousands 
in  the  most  promising  positions  in  the  turf,  and 
they  have  mostly  failed.  I  have  lifted  odd 
clumps  in  full  bloom  and  dumped  them  down 
anywhere,  so  to  speak,  and  they  have  flourished. 
Though  Snowdrops  luxuriate  in  the  woods  and 
shrubberies  here,  when  one  comes  to  move  them 
it  is  quite  another  matter.  So  much  for  my 
experience  with  the  Snowdrop,  and  I  confess  I 
do  not  understand  the  moving  of  it.  I  have  been 
unfortunate  with  the  Grape  Hyacinth  ;  it  dies 
out  in  the  turf,  and  I  fancy  it  wants  a  dry  hedge 
bank  or  some  similar  place.  Soillas  and  Chiono- 
doxas  have  done  only  fairly  well ;  they  seed 
freely,  and  there  are  masses  of  young  seedlings 
every  year  around  the  old  roots  in  the  grass,  but 
they  do  not  seem  to  do  much  in  the  way  of 
flowering.  The  Spring  Snowflake  and  the  Star 
of  Bethlehem  have  disappointed  me,  but  I  have 
no  doubt  all  these  plants  would  flourish  in  suit- 
able soil  in  shrubberies  or  hedge  banks,  though  they 
refuse  to  adapt  themselves  to  naturalisation  in 
turf  here.  The  Snake's-head  Fritillary  is  one  of 
the  successes.  It  has  been  growing  in  the  grass 
here  as  long  as  anyone  can  remember,  and 
increases  every  year  ;  the  white  variety  is  par- 
ticularly charming.  We  gather  the  seed  before 
the  grass  is  cut — about  the  end  of  July  or 
beginning  of  August — and  sow  it  broadcast  after 
the  grass  is  cleared.  A  large  percentage  ger- 
minate, and  the  seedlings  flower  about  the  fourth 
season  from  sowing.  The  Winter  Aconite  should 
do  well  wherever  the  Snowdrop  grows.  It 
'  delights  in  the  sheltered  corner  of  a  shrubbery 
or  woodland  where  the  soil  is  warm  and  open, 
and  likes  a  covering  of  leaves  in  winter.  I 
find  it  does  not  do  well  where  the  grass  is 
at  all  strong,  and  prefers  to  have  the  ground  to 
itself.  The  best  way  to  increase  it  is  by  gathering 
and  sowing  the  seed  in  likely  places,  or,  of 
course,  planting  the  roots.  Of  the  Narcissus  or 
Dafibdil  I  cannot  speak  too  highly  ;  it  is  the 
ideal  subject  for  planting  in  the  grass,  and  the 
soil  and  position  must  indeed  be  a  bad  one  in 
which  Daffodils  refuse  to  grow.  There  are  a  few 
which  I  have  tried  and  found  wanting,  such  as 
the  triandrus  and  Bulbocodium  varieties,  the 
double  oernuus  and  the  Polyanthus  Narcissi ;  but 
in  a  warmer  and  lighter  soil  I  have  no  doubt 


even  these  would  flourish  in  the  grass.  I  have 
planted  scores  of  varieties  of  Narcissi  and 
Daffodils  in  the  turf  here,  and  with  the  few 
exceptions  mentioned  they  have  all  done  ex- 
ceedingly well ;  perhaps  the  most  eflective  for 
massing  is  the  double  yellow  Telamonius  plenus. 
Other  spring-flowering  plants  that  I  have  found 
most  useful  for  naturalising  in  turf  are  some  of 
the  Anemones.  A.  apennina  grouped  with  the 
double  yellow  Daffodil  gives  a  most  charming 
effect,  the  little  bright  blue  flowers  forming  a 
very  pretty  contrast  to  the  masses  of  yellow 
Daffodils  ;  it  requires  the  sun  to  open  its 
flowers,  and  should,  therefore,  be  planted  in  an 
open  place  facing  south.  The  single  and  double 
Wood  Anemones  do  exceedingly  well  in  the 
grass,  and  the  latter  associates  itself  very  well 
with  the  Snake's-head  Fritillary.  The  Crocus  is 
most  useful  where  there  are  no  rabbits ;  the  purples 
and  whites  are  the  best,  as  they  seed  freely. 
They  should  be  planted  quite  shallow  in  a 
sunny  position.  Bluebells  are  excellent  subjects 
for  woodland  planting,  and  the  white  variety, 
Soilla  nutans  alba,  is  especially  charming  and  does 
well  in  the  grass.  Tulips  generally  have  only 
a  short  life  in  the  turf,  but  the  native  species, 
Tulipa  sylvestris,  has  established  itself  here  and 


MR.    PETER  RUDOLPH  BARR. 

is  very  interesting.  Another  charming  subject  is 
the  Dog's-tooth  Violet ;  this  takes  a  few  years  to 
get  established,  but  when  the  clumps  do  get  a  good 
hold  they  seem  to  go  on  improving  indefinitely  ; 
the  flowers  are  very  lovely,  and  the  quaint,  spotted 
leaves  make  the  plant  interesting.  The  double 
Meadow  Saxifrage  is  a  very  useful  little  plant 
for  naturalising ;  it  will  even  grow  and  flower 
under  Beech  trees,  and  its  perfectly  formed  little 
white,  Rose-shaped  flowers,  tinted  with  green, 
are  most  charming.  I  am  afraid  I  cannot  agree 
with  all  of  "  D.  B.  C.'s"  advice  as  to  planting. 
Take  illustrations  No.  1  and  No.  2,  showing 
about  ten  or  twelve  Daffodils  planted  with  a  turf 
to  be  placed  over  them.  There  is  a  danger  if  the 
turf  is  not  broken  up  before  it  is  replaced  over 
the  bulbs  that  such  strong  growers  as  Daffijdils 
will  lift  it  bodily  as  they  push  up  their  young 
growth.  By  far  the  best  way  of  planting  is  to 
use  a  turf  punch  like  the  one  illustrated  in  The 
Garden,  Vol.  LXI V. ,  page  244  ;  this  makes  a 
hole  large  enough  for  two  or  three  Daffodils  oi 
average  size  or  half-a-dozen  smaller  bulbs,  such 
as  Snowdrops,  and  as  they  are  planted  round  the 
side  of  the  hole  they  never  lift  the  turf  ;  besides 
this,  in  suitable  ground  it  is  a  far  quicker  and 
easier  way  of  planting  than  with  a  spade. — 
W.  A.  Watts,  North  Wales. 


WORKERS  AMONG  THE 
FLOWERS. 

Peter  Rudolph  Barr. 

ONE  of  the  younger  generation  of 
horticulturists  is  Peter  Rudolph 
Barr,  eldest  son  of  the  late  Peter 
Barr,  whosedeath  we  recorded  with 
unfeigned  regret  in  The  Garden 
a  few  weeks  ago.  For  many  years 
Mr.  Barr  has,  with  his  two  brothers,  controlled 
the  business  of  an  interesting  firm,  and  with  that 
enthusiasm  one  delights  to  see  in  everything 
connected  with  the  pursuit  of  horticulture, 
whether  for  pleasure  or  for  business.  To  the 
late  Peter  Barr  much  of  the  present  popularity 
of  the  Daffodil  is  due,  and  the  great  work  of  the 
father  has  been  continued  by  the  sons,  as  one  is 
well  aware  from  the  many  beautiful  hybrids  that 
have  been  raised  in  their  Surbiton  nurseries  during 
recent  years,  the  "Peter  Barr"  form  in  particular. 
The  subject  of  the  present  note  is  greatly 
interested  in  cross-fertilisation,  and  doubtless 
many  flower  gems  are  in  process  of  development 
at  Surbiton  which  will  enrich  the  gardens  of  the 
f utiure.  As  Mr.  Barr  once  said  to  the  writer,  ' '  I 
feel  there  is  so  much  still  to  be  done  in  the  direc- 
tion of  cross-fertilising."  He  is  right,  and  if  the 
calls  of  business  were  not  so  urgent  this  would  be 
the  hobby  indulged  in.  The  writer  is  reminded 
of  a  note  some  time  ago  in  the  Journal  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  this  connexion. 
It  referred  to  the  possibilities  that  exist,  through 
cross-fertilisation,  of  producing  beautiful  races 
of  flowers.  "  There  is  a  wonderful  opening 
nowadays  for  anyone  who  really  loves  plants. 
Let  them  only  take  up  one  or,  at  most,  two 
genera,  and  work,  aye  !  work  at  them  ;  turn 
them  and  twist  them  this  way  and  that  way  ; 
hybridise,  cross,  select  in  all  directions,  back- 
wards and  forwards,  and  cease  not  till  something 
goofl,  something  well  worth  having,  rewards 
their  labour.  And  for  choice  take  hardy  plants 
in  hand,  because  the  number  of  people  you  can 
benefit  with  them  is  so  much  greater  than  with 
glasshouse  plants.  What  shall  you  take  ?  Well, 
really,  everyone  must  choose  for  himself ;  but 
that  you  may  not  say  we  can  think  of  nothing, 
we  suggest — Why  not  seek  to  raise  up  a  whole 
race  of  brilliantly- coloured  and  perfectly  hardy 
Anemones  by  crossing  the  common  wood  Ane- 
mone with  Anemone  coronaria,  in  all  its  glorious 
colours,  and  also  with  Anemone  stellata  ?  True, 
A.  coronaria  and  A.  stellata  are  both  of  them 
hardy  in  a  sense  and  in  some  places,  but  nothing 
like  A.  nemorosa,  the  common  Windflower  of  our 
woods  in  spring.  Think  how  generations  yet 
unborn  would  bless  you  if  you  could  present 
them  with  a  strain  of  nemorosa  with  all  the 
colours  of  coronaria  and  stellata,  still  pre- 
serving the  lovely  form  and  free-flowering 
habit  of  nemorosa.  And  this  is  but  one 
example ;  there  is  an  abundance  of  others  as 
easy — or  it  may  be  as  difficult,  for,  till  it  is 
tried,  no  one  can  tell  whether  such  a  cross  would 
be  easy  or  difficult ;  but  such  difficulties  should 
not  discourage  us — only  inspire  us  to  overcome 
them."  These  words  will,  we  are  sure,  be  re- 
echoed by  Mr.  Barr.  A  visit  to  the  famous 
nurseries  at  Surbiton  at  almost  any  season 
of  the  year  is  of  the  greatest  interest  to  the 
horticulturist  and  those  who  seek  for  new 
things,  especially  in  the  time  of  the  Daffodil  and 
Tulip.  The  species  and  varieties  of  Tulip  and 
Daffodil  are  represented  in  a  way  that  presents 
itself  in  few  other  nurseries  of  the  world ;  but,  more 
than  this,  hardy  plants  generally  are  grown  in  rich 
variety  and  with  a  skill  born  of  long  experience. 

Mr.  Barr  shows  his  interest  in  horticulture  in 
general  by  taking  an  active  part  in  such  noble 
institutions  as  those  of  the  Gardeners'  Royal 
Benevolent  and  the  Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund. 
We  hope  this  earnest  horticulturist  has  many 
years  of  useful  work  before  him  and  that  he  will 
continue  to  inspire  in  others,  as  he  has  done  in 
the  past,  a  great  and  enduring  love  for  flowers. 


588 


THE    GARDEN. 


[Decbmber  4,  1909. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


RHODODENDRON  HODGSONII. 

UNFORTUNATELY,  many  of  the  very 
beautiful  Bpeoies  of  Rhododendron 
which  are  found  in  the  Sikkim 
Himalaya  cannot  be  grown  suocesB- 
fuUy  out  of  doors,  except  in  the 
'  moat  favoured  "parts  of  the  country, 
such  as  Dorsetshire,  Devonshire,  Lbrnwall,  the 
coast  of  Wales,  the  West  Coast  of  Scotland 
and  Ireland,  for  when  well  grown  they  form 
magnificent  objects,  some  by  reason  of  their 
flowers,  others  by  their  foliage,  and  others  by  a 
combination    of     the    two.      In    these    places. 


plants  at  all,  but  ordinary  bush  subjects  that 
require  a  little  protection,  and  for  many  reasons 
they  are  better  plants  for  the  purpose  than  those 
of  climbing  or  trailing  habit,  for  it  often  occurs 
that  neat-growing  plants  are  wanted  for  walls, 
while  if  a  climber  is  too  carefully  trained  its 
beauty  is  lost.  It  is,  therefore,  proposed  to 
devote  this  article  strictly  to  shrubs  whose 
branches  require  a  support  to  grow  over,  and  at 
some  future  time  an  article  on  useful  wall  shrubs 
may  be  allowed. 

The  first  item  to  consider  with  regard  to 
climbing  shrubs  is  space,  for  if  the  best  possible 
results  are  to  be  obtained,  the  plants  must  have 
ample  space  for  free  development.  Supports 
such  as  those  previously  alluded  to  are  very  well 
in   their  way,  but  for  a   really   strong-growing 


A  SMiLL  PL4NT   OF  BHODODENDRON   HODGSOKII. 


however,  they  succeed  admirably,  and  are  said  to 
rival  those  growing  in  their  natural  habitats 
for  general  excellence. 

A  small  plant  of  one  of  these  species,  R. 
Hodgsonii,  is  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustra- 
tion. It,  however,  fails  to  do  justice  to  the 
species,  for  in  this  instance  a  well-grown  bush 
may  be  anything  from  12  feet  to  20  feet  high 
with  a  good  spread.  The  leaves  may  be  anything 
between  9  inches  and  12  inches  in  length  and 
3  inches  to  4  inches  in  width,  while  they  are  deep 
green  above  and  covered  with  a  dense  whitish 
felt  beneath.  The  flowers  are  borne  about 
April  in  rather  loose  trusses  ;  they  are  somewhat 
tubular  in  shape  and  deep  lilac  or  purplish  in 
colour.  Other  large-leaved  kinds  met  with 
growing  under  similar  conditions  to  this  are  R. 
grande  and  R.  Falconeri,  while  the  ever-popular 
R.  griffithianum  succeeds  in  the  same  gardens. 
Further  north  or  in  colder  places  it  is  quite  worth 
while  to  give  a  cold  house  over  to  the  culture  of 
these  not  quite  hardy  Rhododendrons.  K. 

CLIMBING  SHRUBS  FOR 
PLANTING  NOW. 
Thb  question  frequently  arises  as  to  what  are 
suitable  climbing  shrubs  for  planting  against 
trellises,  the  posts  of  pergolas,  arbours,  summer- 
houses  and  other  positions  as  distinct  from 
ordinary  wall  plants.  As  a  rule,  the  plants  most 
frequently  grown  against  walls  are  not  climbing 


subject  there  is  nothing  like  an  old  tree  or  large 
bush,  over  which  it  can  ramble  at  will  and  its 
branches  hang  in  long  festoons  in  a  free  and 
natural  manner.  An  old  Holly  or  Evergreen 
Oak,  or  even  a  gnarled  old  common  Oak,  makes 
an  excellent  support.  The  plants  ought  to  be 
placed  well  away  from  the  trunk  on  the  outskirts 
of  the  tree,  so  that  plenty  of  water  can  be 
obtained  and  tree  roots  will  not  interfere  with 
them  too  much.  A  large  hole  must  be  made, 
and  if  the  soil  is  poor  good  material  should  be 
provided. 

The  same  remarks  as  regards  soil  are  applicable 
to  pillar-grown  plants  also.  In  the  case  of  these, 
however,  pruning  will  come  in  for  consideration, 
for  plants  grown  against  pergolas  and  trellises 
have  to  be  kept  within  bounds.  This  pruning 
ought  to  be  done  methodically — that  is,  go  over 
the  plants  once  or  twice  each  year  as  the  occasion 
demands  and  reduce  the  superfluous  growths ;  do 
not  let  the  plants  go  for  several  years  and  then 
carve  three-parts  of  them  away.  The  period  for 
pruning  will,  of  course,  be  decided  by  flowering. 
Foliage  subjects  may  be  pruned  in  winter  and 
again  in  June,  and  also  those  things  which 
flower  on  the  current  year's  wood  require  winter 
pruning  ;  but  those  shrubs  which  blossom  on 
wood  matured  the  previous  year  must  have  the 
pruning  deferred  until  after  the  flowers  have 
faded.  In  the  following  selection  of  plants 
Roses  have  been  purposely  left  out,  for  the 
varieties  suitable  for  the  purpose  are  well  known. 


The  Vines  claim  our  attention  as  being  pecu- 
liarly adapted  for  the  purpose  with  which  we  are 
dealing.  As  pillar  plants  they  clothe  their 
support  with  luxuriant  foliage,  which  frequently 
colours  brilliantly  in  autumn,  while  for  growing 
freely  over  trees  they  have  few  equals.  A  great 
many  sorts  are  known,  and  the  following  are 
selected  as  being  among  the  best :  Vitis  Coig- 
netia;,  V.  Thunbergii,  V.  vinifera  purpurea, 
V.  megalophylla  (a  new  Chinese  species  with 
enormous  leaves),  V.  armata  var.  Veitchii,  V. 
Thomsoni,  V.  leeoides  and  V.  Labrusca.  The 
Wistarias  are  excellent  for  the  purpose,  especially 
if  they  can  be  trained  over  the  top  of  a  pergola 
so  that  the  inflorescences  can  hang  over  the 
walk.  W.  chinensis,  W.  multijuga  and  W. 
multijuga  alba  are  all  useful.  Wistaria  multi- 
juga is  remarkable  for  its  long  inflorescences, 
which  are  frequently  between  2J  feet  and  3  feet 
in  length.  The  Akebias  are  rampant-growing 
climbers  which  bear  purplish  flowers  in  spring. 
There  are  two  species,  A.  quinata  and  A.  lobata, 
both  of  which  are  worth  growing.  The  former 
has  five-parted  and  the  latter  three-parted  leaves. 
Actinidia  chinensis  is  a  very  ornamental  climber 
introduced  from  China  by  Messrs.  Veitch  a  few 
years  ago.  It  grows  vigorously  and  is  worth 
planting  in  a  position  where  it  can  have  lots  of 
room  for  development.  Other  Actinidias  are 
arguta,  polygama  and  Kolomikta  ;  they  are  not, 
however,  very  ornamental  plants.  So  far  as 
foliage  is  concerned,  a  great  deal  may  be  said 
in  favour  of  AristoloohiaSipho  and  A.  tomentosa, 
both  of  which  have  large,  handsome  leaves  and 
look  very  well  when  covering  a  pillar.  The 
flowers  are  very  curious  in  shape,  but  small  and 
dull  in  colour.  The  rounded  leaves  of  Meni- 
spermum  canadense  make  it  a  desirable  subject, 
while  Periploca  grsoa  is  a  plant  of  extremely 
fast  growth  suitable  for  covering  an  ugly  object 
quickly.  Araujia  sericofera,  or  Physianthus  albens 
as  it  is  frequently  called,  is  a  useful  white- 
flowered  climber  of  service  for  the  warmer 
counties,  while  the  same  may  be  said  of  Solanum 
jasminoides.  Berberidopsis  corallina  may  also 
be  grown  in  warm  localities. 

The  Clematises  are  a  host  in  themselves,  and 
almost  every  one  is  pretty.  The  common  Old 
Man's  Beard  (Clematis  Vitalba)  is  one  of  the 
most  delightful  plants  imaginable  when  growing 
freely,  and  it  is  not  difficult  to  call  to  mind 
visions  of  fine  old  examples  tumbling  about  over 
high  fences  and  trees  in  riotous  confusion.  All 
the  garden  forms  of  Jaokmanii,  lanuginosa, 
patens  and  florida  may  be  grown,  while  such 
species  as  Viticella,  montana  and  its  lovely 
variety  rubens,  alpina,  campanifiora,  Flammula, 
grata  and  orientalis  are  all  worthy  of  considera- 
tion. Such  Honeysuckles  as  Lonicera  Perioly- 
menum,  L.  sempervirens,  L.  japonica  and  its 
varieties  aureo-reticulata,  flexuosa  and  halleana, 
L.  SuUivantii,  L.  Heckrottii  and  the  new  L. 
tragophylla  are  all  beautiful  climbing  shrubs, 
while  Jasminum  nudiflorum  and  J.  officinalis  are 
ever  popular. 

A  climbing  shrub  which  is  less  widely  known 
than  its  usefulness  warrants  is  Celastrus  articu- 
latus.  It  is  a  native  of  China  and  Japan,  and  is 
conspicuous  from  October  until  Christmas  by 
reason  of  its  orange-coloured  fruits,  which  burst 
open  and  disclose  the  reddish  seeds  within. 
Celastrus  is  closely  allied  to  Euonymus,  and  the 
fruits  are  very  similar  in  appearance.  Rubuses 
contribute  their  number  to  our  list,  and  we 
have  such  useful  fruiting  plants  as  Rubus 
laciniatus,  the  Loganberry,  the  new  Lowberry 
and  Rubus  pheenicolasius  (the  Japanese  Wine- 
berry).  Several  new  species  have  been  lately 
introduced,  of  which  a  distinct  one  suitable  for 
our  purpose  is  R.  bambusarum.  Tecoma  radicans 
is  a  beautiful  flowering  plant  where  it  does  well, 
but  it  cannot  always  be  depended  on,  and  the 
same  may  be  said  of  T.  grandifiora.  To  conclude 
our  list  we  will  mention  the  sub-shrubby  Poly- 
gonum baldsehuanicum,  which  in  the  course  of  a 
few  years  has  become  one  of  the  most  popular 
climbers  in  our  gardens.  W.  D. 


December  4,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


589 


TH  E    ROSE    GARDEN. 


NOTES   ON   NEWER   ROSES.- 
Hybrid  Teas. 


-XI. 


M 


(  Continued  Jrom  page  579.) 
[  RS.  DAVID  JARDINE  (Alex.  Diek- 
Bon  and  Sons,  1908). — A  glorious 
Rose  under  glass ;  fine  colour,  shape 
and  highly  fragrant.  I  wish  I 
could  say  the  same  for  it  outside. 
I  saw  some  fine  flowers  of  it  as 
maidens,  but  generally  outside  it  has  not  come 
up  to  expectations.  Of  course,  it  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  find  reasons — the  season,  for  example ; 
but  it  is  useless  to  deny  that  it  has  been  dis- 
appointing. It  is  thought  a  great  deal  of  in 
America,  judging  from  the  references  to  it  in  the 
American  Press. 

Mrs.  Harold  Brockhbank  (Alex.  Dickson  and 
Sons,  1907). — This  is  a  lovely  Rose  and  one  I 
can  strongly  recommend.  It  is  often  good  enough 
for  exhibition,  but  it  is  as  a  garden  or  bedding  Rose 
that  I  would  recommend  it.  It  has  all  the 
points  that  go  to  make  a  good  Rose.  Flowers  of 
good  shape,  colour,  very  fragrant,  and  plenty  of 
them.  I  have  been  very  pleased  with  it.  Colour, 
pale  cream,  deepening  in  the  centre  to  almost 
buflf,  sometimes  showing  salmon  tints  in  the 
young  flowers.  The  whole  flower  appeals  very 
much  to  ladies,  one  of  whom,  looking  at  it  in  my 
garden,  remarked,  "That's  the  kind 
of  Rose  I  like  ;  such  a  soft  flower. " 
Mrs.  Longworth  (Prince,  1908). — 
This  is  a  sport  from  Caroline 
Testout  and  rather  a  curious  one. 
It  is  not  exactly  striped,  although 
so  described.  The  flowers  are  pale 
flesh,  almost  white,  in  colour, 
splashed  and  marked  with  pink. 
It  is  unique  in  its  way,  and  must 
not  be  left  out  of  that  bed  of 
Caroline  Testout  and  her  descen- 
dants that  I  mentioned  in  a  former 
article  ;  but  I  do  not  recommend  it 
to  the  ordinary  grower  with  a 
strictly  limited  space  at   his  dis- 


THE     KITCHEN     GARDEN    THE    FLOWER   GARDEN 


THE  VALUE  OF  CELERY  AS  A 
VEGETABLE. 

WE  do  not,  I  fear,  make  as  much 
use  of  Celery  as  a  vegetable  as 
it  deserves,  and  probably  one 
of  the  reasons  is  that  the  plant 
is  looked  upon  by  amateurs  as 
being  rather  difiicult  to  grow, 
requiring  a  lot  of  manure,  much  attention  and 
considerable  space.  Celery  in  a  cooked  state  is 
a  delicious  vegetable,  to  my  taste  far  prefer- 
able to  Seakale,  and  it  may  be  had  in  season  for 
quite  six  months  or  even  longer  if  desired. 
Apart  from  its  distinctness  from  other  vegetables. 
Celery  is  considered  a  valuable  food  for  certain 
afflictions,  such  as  rheumatism  ;  but  this  point  I 
must  leave  to  those  with  a  greater  knowledge  as 
regards  its  medicinal  properties.  I  can,  however, 
safely  add  that  many  persons  can  eat  Celery  boiled 
or  otherwise  cooked  who  cannot  digest  other 
vegetables  of  a  more  solid  nature ;  indeed.  Celery 
is  an  ideal  invalid's  food,  and  it  can  be  cooked 
in  different  forms  and  is  soon  prepared  for  use. 

I  have  found  no  great  difficulty  in  having  good 
Celery  for  cooking  well  into  May,  as  at  the  end 
of  March  or  early  in  April  the  plants  begin  a 
second  growth  ;  but  if  lifted  with  a  ball  of  earth 
and  roots  and  laid  in  under  a  north  wall  and 
well  watered  the  heads  keep  sound  some  weeks 


NATURALISING    CROCUSES    IN 
GRASS. 

THIS  system  of  growing  the  charming 
spring  -  flowering  Crocuses  has  fre- 
quently been  advocated  in  The 
Garden,  hence  there  is  no  necessity 
to  go  into  details  concerning  the 
actual  work  of  planting  now.  There 
are,  however,  one  or  two  points  to  which  atten- 
tion is  net  usually  drawn,  but  which  are 
of  considerable  importance,  and  these  apply 
equally  to  those  grown  in  beds  or  borders  or  in 
grass. 

The  first  point  is  the  necessity  for  planting  in 
a  sunny  position.  That  the  plants  will  grow 
and  bloom  well  in  shade  I  am  perfectly  aware, 
but  the  flowers  need  sunshine  to  induce  them  to 
open  and  so  display  the  beauty  of  the  interior  of 
the  segments  and  also  the  stigmas.  Grown  in 
shade  the  flowers  are  simple  globes  of  gold, 
violet  or  white,  as  the  case  may  be  ;  but  in  sun 
shine  a  perfect  carpet  of  colour  is  obtained. 

Another  point  to  consider,  and  a  very  im 
portant  one  it  is,  is  the  depth  to  plant  the  oorms. 
Crocuses  ought  never  to  be  planted  more  than 
2  inches  beneath  the  surface,  and  if  they  are 
many  of  them  will  fail  to  bloom.  Many  a  seeds 
man  has  been  wrongly  blamed  on  account  of  the 


Mrs.  Stewart  Clark  (Hugh  Dick- 
son, 1907). — Another  Rose  that  has 
improved  on  acquaintance.  When 
it  was  awarded  the  gold  medal  a 
good  many  found  fault  with  the 
colour  ;  but  I  am  inclined  to  think 
that  it  is  quite  possible  to  have  a 
good  magenta.  It  is,  I  am  sure, 
quite  wrong  to  say,  as  so  many  do, 
that  all  magentas  are  bad.  But 
who  said  magenta  ?  Mrs.  Stewart 
Clark  is  a  bright  cerise  pink  and 
a  very  fine-shaped  flower  that  has 
a  particularly  sweet  scent.  It  is  a 
very  vigorous  grower,  and  is 
strongly  recommended  to  the  ex- 
hibitor. 

Rhea  Reid  (E.  G.  Hill,  1908).— 
Not   so  good,   at  any   rate  out  of 
doors,   as   Richmond.      Colour 
possibly     brighter     than     either     Liberty     or 
Richmond,  but  the  flowers  do  not  come  so  perfect 
and  it  has  not  proved  so  good  a  grower.     I  do 
not  think  it  will  be  wanted. 

Williain  S/ieari(Alex.  Dickson  andSons,  1906). — 
The  largest  Rose  in  cultivation  (though  there  are 
some  bigger  ones  coming),  this  is  a  grand  exhibi- 
tion Rose  worthy  to  take  its  place  among  the 
Mildred  Grants,  Bessie  Browns,  Dean  Holes, 
Mrs.  Edward  Mawleys — in  a  word,  the  dlite  of  the 
exhibition  Roses.  It  is  a  very  fine  shape ;  colour 
variable,  all  shades  of  pink  ;  and  is  indispensable 
to  all  exhibitors  and  by  no  means  difficult  to 
grow.  It  is  one  of  the  best  Hybrid  Teas  for  exhi- 
bition ;  some  would  put  it  on  top  and  say  the 
best  Hybrid  Tea.  While  not  going  quite  so  far  as 
that,  I  think  it  is  easily  in  the  first  half-dozen. 

Purley.  Herbert  E.  Molynbux. 


CROCUSES  NATURAUSED   IN   GRASS    IS    A    SUHNY   POSIIION. 


longer,  and  are  at  such  a  season  more  valuable. 
As  regards  sowing  and  planting,  the  cost  may 
be  much  lessened,  as  there  is  no  need  whatever 
to  sow  in  heat.  I  have  in  the  South  sown 
late  in  April  on  a  warm  border  in  rich  soil,  and 
covered  the  surface  with  mats  or  spare  sashes. 
If  sown  thinly  the  plants  require  no  transplant- 
ing, but  can  be  lifted  from  their  growing  quarters 
to  the  trenches.  Treated  thus  they  are  sturdy 
and  grow  away  splendidly.  In  the  North  or  late 
districts  sowings  made  in  a  cold  frame  give  the 
same  results.  In  our  large  market  gardens  a  lot 
of  Celery  for  late  use  is  grown  in  wide  breadths, 
and  does  well,  as  in  dry  seasons  there  is  less 
watering  with  wider  breadths.  For  cooking 
purposes  it  answers  admirably,  as  the  plants  do 
not  require  so  much  earthing  up  and  take  up  less 
space.  G.   Wythes. 


corms  not  flowering,  when  the  trouble  was  really 
due  to  deep  planting.  As  regards  irregular  plant- 
ing in  grass,  this  point  is  now  fairly  well  under- 
stood, and  the  accompanying  illustration  gives  a 
good  idea  of  Crocuses  so  planted.  H. 

SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

Care  of  Seedlings. — The  simple  fact  that  the 
seeds  are  sown  in  pots  in  cold  frames  or  in  the 
open  ground  in  the  autumn  does  not  absolve  the 
grower  from  giving  any  further  thought  to  his 
Sweet  Peas  until  the  end  of  the  following 
February  or  the  beginning  of  March,  when  it  can 
be  seen  that  the  plants  are  in  actual  progress. 
Nothing  of  the  sort ;  indeed,  the  man  who  works 
on  these  lines  is  not  the  one  who  will  startle  the 
world  in  the  exhibition  arena  at  the  next  season's 


590 


THE    GARDEN. 


[December  4,  1909. 


shows.  The  man  who  achieves  this  feat  is  the 
one  who  tends  assiduously  to  the  wants  of  his 
cherished  seedlings  ;  and  that  they  do  make 
demands  which  must  be  met  none  can  dispute. 

Seed3  sown  in  6-iaoh  pots  during  October  will 
now  be  sturdy  little  plants,  and  it  is  imperative 
that  the  soil  in  the  pots  shall  be  maintained  in  a 
pleasantly  moist  condition.  Far  be  it  from  me 
to  suggest  that  water  should  be  given  every  day ; 
that  way  lies  failure,  but  dryness  to  the  point  ot 
dust  will  result  in  the  shrivelling  of  the  fibres 
and  a  consequent  check  to  the  plants,  and  this  is 
a  thing  that  must  be  avoided  at  all  costs  by  those 
who  would  rise  to  the  top  of  the  tree.  On  the 
other  hand,  it  is  absolutely  essential  that  no 
attempt  should  be  made  to  hurry  the  plant  in 
the  slightest  degree,  since  that  also  will  lead  to 
failure  and  disappointment.  The  primary  object 
must  be  steady  and  continuous  advance  from  the 


inexperienced  grower  what  particular  advantage  |  beautiful    when     in     full     bloom 


can  accrue  upon  it,  but  it  not  only  affords  decided 
protection  from  cold,  cutting  winds,  but  also, 
and  probably  more  important,  it  throws  the  wet 
from  the  stems,  whereas  the  fall  towards  the 
rows  naturally  encourages  it  to  them.  If  severe 
frost  came  when  the  stems  were  damp,  the  chances 
are  that  serious  injury  would  result ;  but  having 
them  comparatively  dry  will  mean  almost  perfect 
safety.  Spencer. 

BRACHYGLOTTIS    REPANDA    IN 
NEW    ZEALAND. 
In   the  volume  of    the  Journal  of    the   Royal 
Horticultural  Society  for  the  year  1908  a  report 
is  published  of  a  specimen  plant  exhibited  at  one 
of    the   society's    shows    bearing  two  panicles, 


society  s 

which  appears  to  have  been  of  much  interest  by 

timrthatTheseedrings  show  through  the  surface  I  reason  of  its  being  the  first  time  B.   repanda  is 

until  the  plants  are  at  the  zenith 

of  their  beauty  in  the  succeeding 

summer.      To  this  end  water  is 

given  only  when  it  is  necessary  to 

prevent  the  soil   from   becoming 

perfectly  dry. 

In  the  event  of  hard  frosts,  the 
thing  to  guard  against  is  not  the 
frost  touching  the  plants — it  is 
most  improbable  that  they  will 
sufier  from  this— but  to  prevent 
the  soil  in  the  pots  becoming 
frozen  and  cracking  them,  since 
this  will,  of  course,  involve  im- 
mediate repotting,  which  is  by  no 
means  to  be  desired,  for  the 
simple  reason  that  it  is  practically 
impossible  to  carry  it  out  without 
giving  a  more  or  less  severe  check 
to  the  young  plants.  Another 
point  that  must  always  be  kept 
in  the  mind  of  the  cultivator  is 
the  partiality  of  slugs  for  the 
sweet  tips  of  the  growths.  If 
this  pest  is  permitted  to  devour 
the  plants  unchecked,  then  one 
may  give  up  all  hope  of  having  a 
superb  display  in  the  coming 
season.  The  judicious  use  of  lime 
at  frequent  intervals  is  the  most 
reliable  preventive  in  the  ordinary 
way,  but  it  is  commonly  neces- 
sary to  have  recourse  to  hunting 
or  trapping  to  ensure  satisfactory 
results.  As  far  as  birds  are  con- 
cerned, it  is  invariably  wise  to 
have  a  light  framework  of  fine- 
meshed  wire-netting  made  of 
exactly  the  same  size  as  the  light, 

and   put   this    on   whenever    the 

latter    is    off.      By    this    simple 

means  the  birds  are  circumvented 

and  the  young  plants  receive  the 

full  advantage  of    the  fresh    air 

which  is  essential  to  their  satis- 
factory   progress.      The    grower 

must  remember  that  in  half-an-hour  the  spirrows, 

working  industriously,  will  top  scores  of  plants, 

and  he  must  not  forget  to  have  the   protective 

wire  always  in  position,  or  trouble  will  assuredly 

follow. 


during  the 
The  aceom- 
a  splendid 
height  and 
situation  in 
Pukekura 


months  of  September  and  October. 

panying     photograph     illustrates 

floriferous     specimen    8    feet    in 

diameter  growing   in    a  sheltered 

front  of  trees  of    Pinus  insignis  in 

Park,   New   Plymouth.     Last   summer   was   an 

exceptionally  floriferous  one  with  many  species 

of   plants   and   trees   comprising   the    beautiful 

forest  flora  of  New  Zealand. 

W.  W.  Smith,  F.R.H.S. 
New  Plymouth,  New  Zealand. 


ANOTHER  QUICKLY  MADE  GARDEN. 

I  WAS  much  interested  in  the  "  Garden  Quickly 
Made "  illustrated  in  The  Garden  dated 
November  20.  I,  too,  have  made  a  garden  out 
of  a  pasture.  Cows  were  feeding  on  the  rough 
grass  when  I  came  into  possession.  I  enclose 
two  small  photographs  of  the 
garden  in  the  third  summer.  The 
home-made  Rose  pergola  was  a 
mass  of  bloom.  I  may  add,  for 
the  sake  of  beginners,  that  I  was 
very  ignorant  of  the  art  of  gar- 
dening— did  not  know  a  Gail- 
lardia  from  a  Pyrethrum  !  The 
beginning  of  knowledge  was 
taking  in  The  Garden.  The 
' '  Gardening  for  Beginners  "  was 
carefully  studied,  and  my  ignorant 
questions  were  always  cour- 
teously answered  by  the  Editor. 
Then  I  increased  my  knowledge 
by  the  study  of  its  advertise- 
ments. Next  came  the  catalogues 
of  the  advertisers,  and  finally  the 
courteous,  and  even  kindly, 
advice  of  the  great  nurserymen 
to  whom  I  applied.  To  encour- 
age beginners  in  this  delightful 
work  I  may  add  that  1  have 
only  unskilled  labour. 

J.  V.  Milne. 
Broadgates,  near  Haverhill. 


COLOURED 
PLATE. 

PLATB      1388. 


WHARANOI-TAWHITO 


BLOOM    (BRACHYGLOTTIS  RErANDA) 
PARK,    NEW   ZEALAND. 


IN    PUKEKURA 


r  BE. 

T 


known  to  have  bloomed  in  Englaud.  When 
visiting  the  Royal  Gardens  at  Kew  nearly  thirty 
years  ago,  I  observed  some  specimens  of  this 
handsome  New  Zealand  species  growing  in  large 
pots  in  the  Tropical  House.  Presuming  that  they 
Seedlings  out  of  doors  have  not  had  the  most ;  continued  to  flourish,  it  seems  almost  incredible 
cheerful  of  times  during  the  present  autumn,  i  to  me  that  they  have  not  bloomed  years  ago. 
Rains  have  been  incessant  and  generally  cold,  I  The  temperature  was  unquestionably  too  warm 
and  thousands  of  seeds  have  rotted  in  the  ground,  i  and  dry  for  this  cool  and  moisture-loving  plant, 
especially  those  of  the  mauve  and  lavender  i  which  attains  to  perfection  in  the  more  sheltered 
colours  and  the  varieties  having  white-skinned  valleys  and  slopes  in  the  New  Zealand  forest, 
seeds.  There  are,  however,  miny  excellent  rows  The  highest-grown  and  best-developed  specimens 
that  will  demand  a  littU  attention  in  order  to  (about  20  feet  in  height)  I  have  observed  occur 
encourage  satisfactory  advancement.  It  is  the  in  areas  of  bush  or  native  forest  inland  of 
general  and  excellent  rule  to  sow  in  trenches  Kawhia  Harbour,  on  the  banks  of  the  Waitara 
rather  lower  than  the  normal  level  of  the  soil.  River,  and  in  the  National  Forest  Reserve 
and  it  will  now  be  sound  practice  to  draw  in  the  i  circling  the  base  of  Mount  Egmont  in  Taranaki. 
soil  to  fill  up  the  depression  and,  in  the  majority  \  Uniformly  grown  specimens  of  B.  repanda  (the 
of  instances,  to  carry  it  an  inch  or  2  inches  up  the  I  Wharangi-tawhito  of  the  Maori)  about  seven  or 
stems  of  the  tender  plants.  It  sounds  a  simple  1  eight  years  old  and  about  8  feet  in  height  and 
thing  to  do,  and  it  is  not  quite  obvious  to  the  I  breadth  are  the  most  floriferous,  and  are  very 


THE    CHAPMAN    FREESIAS. 
Frees  I A    History. 

HE  home  of  the  Freesia 
is  South  Africa.  It  is 
one  of  the  many 
"Cape  bulbs"  that 
enrich  our  gardens. 
Up  to  a  very  few 
years  ago  its  history  was  simply 
the  record  of  the  dates  of  the 
introduction  of  some  half-a-dozen  species  or 
"forms."  The  first  to  come  was  F.  refracta. 
This  must  have  been  in  the  early  part  of  last 
century,  as  there  is  an  illustration  of  it 
(plate  135)  in  the  Botanical  Beijister.  I  have 
looked  through  a  good  many  gardening  books  and 
periodicals  of  the  thirties,  forties  and  fifties,  and 
can  find  no  reference  to  it.  From  this  I  imagine 
it  must  have  been  quite  neglected  for  many 
years.  The  next  species  to  be  introduced  was 
F.  Leichtlinii.  It  was  found,  quite  by  chance,  by 
Max  Leiehtlin  among  some  neglected  pots  in  the 
Botanic  Garden  at  Padua.  He  obtained  possession 
of  the  treasure  and  introduced  it  into  European 
gardens.  It  was  shown  by  the  late  Dr.  A. 
Wallace  of  Colchester  at  the  Royal  Botanic 
Society  on  April  28,  1875,  when  it  received  an 
award  of  merit,  and  later  on  in  the  year  it  duly 
appeared  in  his  bulb  list.  Three  years  later — 
that  is,  in  1878— the  same  Dr.  Wallace  showed 
F.   refracta  alba,  for  which  he  was  awarded  a 


December  4,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN.. 


591 


FLOWBRS  BORDEKBD   WITH    TUKF   IN   MR.    .J.    V.    MILNe'S   GARDEN. 


first-class  certificate.  I  am  uncertain  if  he  was 
the  actual  introducer  or  not,  but  he  was  certainly 
one  of  the  very  first  to  handle  it.  In  1882 
Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons  of  Reading  introduced 
an  improved  form  under  the  name  of  F.  Leiohtlinii 
major. 

It  may  be  of  interest  to  compare  the  prices  of 
that  year  with  those  of  to-day.  F.  refracta 
alba  was  catalogued  by  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  at 
lOs.  6d.  per  dozen  and  F.  Leichtlinii  at  33.  6d. 
Then,  after  the  lapse  of  nearly  twenty  years,  a 
Mr.  Armstrong  sent  in  1901  to  Mr.  C.  G.  van 
Tubergen  of  Haarlem  a  few  bulbs  of  a  new  pink 
species.  These  flowered  in  1902  and  were  named 
F.  Armstrongii.  They  are  the  progenitors  of  the 
lovely  shades  of  lilac,  mauve  and  pink  which  we 
have  occasionally  seen  during  the  last  two  or 
three  years  at  some  of  the  spring  shows  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  at  Vincent  Square. 
About  the  same  time  another  new  species 
appeared,  viz.,  F.  aurea,  which  received  an 
award  of  merit  at  the  Temple  Show  in  1902. 
This  variety  has  dingy  yellow  flowers  and  is 
particularly  interesting  in  connexion  with  the 
subject  of  this  article,  inasmuch  as  it  is  the  pollen 
parent  of  the  Chapman  Freesias. 

Since  the  appearance  of  these  two  last  species, 
the  Freesia  has  been  taken  in  hand  with  a  view 
to  its  improvement  in  colour  and  size.  The 
workers  who  are  already  in  the  field  include  Mr. 
C.  G.  van  Tubergen  of  Haarlem ;  Dr.  Attilio 
Ragionieri  of  Florence  ;  Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons 
of  Reading,  who  had  some  pink  Freesia  seed  sent 
them  by  a  correspondent  in  South  Africa, 
which  they  grew  on  until,  in  1907,  they  had  a 
sufficient  stock  to  offer  to  their  customers  ;  and, 
last  but  by  no  means  least,  Mr.  F.  Herbert 
Chapman  of  Rye.  The  result  of  their  work  is  to 
be  seen  in  the  bulb  catalogues  of  this  present 
autumn.  In  addition  to  refracta,  refracta  alba 
and  Leiohtlinii  major,  we  find  Sutton's  Pink 
Freesia  (Sutton),  Chapmanii  (Herbert  Chapman), 
alba  citrina  (Herbert  Chapman),  Tubergenii 
(Tubergen),  Armstrongii  (Armstrong),  Amethyst 
(Tubergen),  Dainty  Maid  and  Rose  Queen  (shown 
by  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons  on  February  23  of 
this  year). 

The  Work  of  Herbert  Chapman. 

Mr.  F.  Herbert  Chapman  of  Rye  began  to  work 
on  Freesias  in  1904.  He  had  grown  F.  aurea  for 
two  or  three  years  when  a  happy  inspiration 
seized  him,  and  he  thought  he  would  cross 
refracta  with  aurea,  as  there  seemed  great  possi- 
bilities in  the  colour  of  the  new-comer.     With 


the  idea  of  producing  a  vigorous,  sweet-scented , 
yellow  refracta  he  made  his  first  cross,  using  the 
white,  yellow  -  blotched  refracta  as  the  seed 
parent.  The  result  was  a  number  of  plants  with 
flowers  of  varying  shades  of  yellow.  He  selected 
a  few  of  the  best  of  the  seedlings  and,  using  them 
as  pollen  parents,  crossed  them  with  refracta 
alba.  Among  the  progeny  of  this  second  double 
cross  was  the  famous  variety  F.  Chapmanii. 
Although  it  is  not  the  ideal  flower  at  which  Mr. 
Chapman  is  aiming,  he  deserves  the  highest 
praise  for  its  introduction.  It  is  on  the  small 
side,  and  it  might  be  sweeter  scented  ;  neverthe- 
less, it  is  a  very  fine  addition  to  the  family.  The 
centre  flower  of  the  coloured  plate  is  the  true 
variety.  It  will  at  once  be  seen  what  an  immense 
stride  has  been  taken  towards  a  deep  yellow 
refracta,  and  that  the  unanimous  award  of 
merit  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  on 
March  5,  1907,  was  richly  deserved.  With  the 
exception  of  the  flowers  on  the  right  of  the 
picture,   which  represent  the  typical  refracta. 


and  which  are  only  introduced  for  comparison, 
the  others  are  seedlings  of  merit  which  he  baa 
selected  as  worthy  of  a  name.  The  one  in  the 
centre  on  the  immediate  right  of  Chapmanii  is 
Amber,  a  most  delicate  flower  of  unique  form 
and  colouring,  being  a  uniform  amber  with  no 
blotch  or  shading.  It  is,  I  believe,  the  raiser's 
favourite  of  all  iii  the  plate.  The  left-hand 
bottom  flower  is  Lemondrop.  It  merits  distinc- 
tion on  account  of  its  beautiful  form  and  broad 
perianth  segments.  The  bottom  flower,  which 
i  is  a  sort  of  bicolor  or  half-and-half,  is  one  that 
I  instantly  attracts  the  eye  when  it  is  seen  grow- 
'  ing  with  other  varieties.  The  plate  indicates 
how  far  Mr.  Chapman  has  advanced  in  his  work 
with  regard  to  the  yellow  type  of  flower.  It  is 
safe  to  say  that  these  flowers,  beautiful  as  they 
are,  will,  in  all  probability,  be  superseded  within 
a  comparatively  few  years.  He  is  still  at  work. 
Need  I  say  more  ? 

At  present  Mr.  Chapman  has  not  exhibited 
any  pink  or  mauve  seedlings  of  his  own  raising, 
but  he  has  now  turned  his  attention  to  these  as 
well  as  to  the  yellows,  and  it  is  only  a  question  of 
a  year  or  two  before  the  horticultural  world  will 
see  some  of  the  results. 

The  Future. 

The  Freesia  is  a  flower  with  an  undoubted 
"future."  The  plate  in  this  number  of  The 
Garden  tells  us  this  much  ;  but  if  any  corrobora- 
tion is  needed  I  would  refer  readers  to  a 
suggestive  plate  that  was  published  in  Die 
Gartenwelt  of  April  24  of  this  year.  Bright  pinks 
and  mauves  are  there  pictured  as  well  as  deep 
yellows.  They  are  the  result  of  crossing  the 
true  pure  white  refracta  alba  with  pollen  of 
Armstrongii  and  were  "made  in  Holland,'"  if  such 
a  term  is  allowed  in  connexion  with  these  flowers. 

I  often  think  of  the  future  of  floriculture  now 
there, are  so  few  new  worlds  left  to  conquer. 
The  amelioration  of  our  plants  and  flowers  must 
almost  entirely  depend  on  human  agency.  There 
are  wonderful  examples  of  what  has  resulted 
from  this  in  the  case  of  the  Daffodil,  the  Sweet 
Pea  and  the  common  red  field  Poppy.  Why 
should  it  not  be  the  same  with  the  Freesia? 
They,  too,  will  progress,  and  if  Nature's  hints 
are  taken  by  observant  workers,  it  is  fairly 
safe  to  say  that  the  change  in  this  family  will 
be  no  less  striking  than  it  has  been  in  any  of 
those  mentioned  above.  Progress,  with  beauty 
and  utility,  must  ever  be  the  aim  of  those  who 
undertake  this  important  work.     .Joseph  Jacob. 


-AN   amateur's  rose   PERGOIiA   THE  THIRD  SUMMER  AFTER  CONSTRUCTION. 


592 


THE    GAKDEN. 


(December  4,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 

TREATMENT      OF      CHRYSANTHEMUMS      AFTER      FLOWERING. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE  AND  FRAMES.— 
Whenever  poasible,  all  cuttings  in 
frames  should  be  thoroughly  in- 
spected and  any  dead  and  decaying 
leaves  promptly  removed,  other- 
wise disease  will  quickly  be  in- 
stalled and  hosts  of  the  cuttings  destro3'ed.  In 
the  ease  of  rather  thick,  soft  cuttings  it  frequently 
happens  that  a  brown  or  black  patch  of  disease 
may  manifest  itself  near  the  base  of  the  cutting, 
and  providing  the  latter  is  a  choice  one  and  the 
disease  is  only  skin-deep,  there  is  a  chance  of 
saving  it.  Carefully  pare  away  the  diseased 
portion  with  a  clean,  sharp  knife  and  then  dust 
some  finely  powdered  charcoal  over  the  wound, 
removing  the  pot  or  box  containing  the  cutting 
to  a  warmer  and  drier  position  for  a  week  or  two 
if  possible.  In  the  case  of  cold  frames  containing 
cuttings  of  bedding  Calceolarias,  Pentstemons, 
old  Chrysanthemum  stools,  plants  of  Carnations, 
Pansies  and  other  hardy  subjects,  free  ventilation 
must  be  aflForded  on  all  fine  days,  as  this  will  do 
much  to  dispel  damp,  which  is  an  enemy  of  no 
mean  order  during  the  dull  days.  Keep  all 
growing  plants  in  the  greenhouse  as  clean  and  as 
near  the  glass  as  possible,  and  on  no  account 
must  crowding  be  allowed. 

Fmil  Oarden. — In  many  localities  there  are 
always  a  number  of  Apple  trees  which  are 
affected  by  canker,  a  fungus  that  causes  rough 
wounds  in  the  branches  and  frequently  eats  right 
round  the  shoot,  thus  killing  that  portion  beyond 
the  point  attacked.  In  the  ease  of  old  trees  badly 
affected,  it  is  of  little  use  adopting  remedial 
measures,  and  the  best  thing  to  do  is  to  grub  up 
the  tree ;  but  with  younger  specimens  the  evil 


-  OLD  CHRVSANTHEMCM  STOOLS,  SHOWING 
METHOD  OF  CPTTIN'G  DOWN  PLANTS  AFTER 
FLOWERING.  PLANTS  THAT  ARE  SHY  IN 
DEVELOPING  CITTTINGS  SHOULD  HAVE  A 
GOOD  LENGTH  OF  THE  OLD  STEM  RETAINED, 
WHILE  THOSE  OF  FREE  GROWTH  SHOULD 
BE  CUT  EAOlv  TO  WITHIN  1  INCH  OR 
2   INCHES  OF  THEIR    EASE. 


may,  with  care,  be  eradicated.  In  the  case  of 
shoots  which  have  been  killed,  these  must,  of 
course,  be  cut  right  away  below  the  point 
attacked  ;  but  where  the  disease  is  not  so  far 
advanced,  the  affected  portion  must  be  carefully 
pared  away  with  a  sharp  knife  right  down  to 
the  live  tissue,  and  the  wound  then  carefully 
painted  over  with  Stockholm  or  ordinary  coal-tar. 
If  the  tree  has  not  been  growing  freely  in  the 
past,  make  up  the  following  mixture  of  manures, 
and  apply  in  January  or  February  as  a  top- 
dressing  at  the  rate  of  4oz.  to  the  square  yard  as 
far  as  the  branches  extend :  Superphosphate, 
l'21b.  ;  nitrate  of  potash,  101b.  ;  sulphate  of  lime, 
41b.  ;  nitrate  of  soda,  3Ib.  ;  and  sulphate  of  iron, 
lib. 

Flower  Oarden. — Any  alterations  in  this  depart- 
ment that  need  doing  should  be  put  in  hand  at 
once,  as  the  sooner  the  work  is  completed  the 
better.  The  rock  garden,  when  the  weather  is 
not  frosty,  should  be  carefully  gone  over  and  any 
weeds  or  decaying  material  removed.  Also,  it 
may  be  possible  that  frost  has  loosened  some  of 
the  more  shallow-rooting  plants,  and  these  will 
need  to  be  made  firm  again.  Christmas  Roses 
will  now,  or  shortly,  be  pushing  up  their  flower- 
buds,  and  to  obtain  the  blossoms  in  a  clean  and 
pure  condition  the  plants  ought  to  be  covered  with 
a  rough  frame,  or  even  large  bell-glasses  or  cloches 
will  do,  the  idea  being  to  ward  oflf  excessive  rains 
and  impurities  which  are  always  present  in  dull 
weather.  Delphiniums  and  Phloxes,  where  not 
already  done,  should  be  covered  with  a  mixture 
of  soot  and  ooal-ashes,  otherwise  slugs  will  get  at 
the  crowns  and  do  much  irreparable  damage. 

Vegetable  Oarden. — Take  advantage  of  a  fine, 
dry  day  to  go  over  the  winter  Onion  bed  and 
remove  any  weeds  that  may  be  present.  If  the 
aoil  is  dry  enough  much  good  will  be  done  by 
running  a  Dutch  hoe  between  the  rows,  taking 
care,  of  course,  not  to  disturb  the  roots. 
Cabbages  that  were  planted  out  last  sutumn 
must  be  inspected  frequently,  or  slugs  are  likely 
to  do  much  damage.  If  these  pests  abound,  dust 
round  the  plants  occasionally  with  soot,  or,  better 
still,  Kilogrub  or  Apterite.  Lettuces,  Endive  and 
other  plants  in  cold  frames  must  have  ventila- 
tion freely  on  all  fine  days,  otherwise  stagnant 
moisture  is  likely  to  do  much  damage.  Lift 
some  of  the  strongest  Chicory  roots  and  plant 
them  thickly  in  ordinary  soil  in  a  deep  box, 
cover  this  to  keep  the  plants  quite  dark,  and 
stand  in  a  warm  place  in  the  greenhouse  or  even 
in  a  warm  cellar.  Treated  thus  the  plants  will 
soon  produce  an  abundance  of  blanched  leaves, 
which  will  be  most  useful  for  salads  at  this 
season.  A  sowing  of  Mustard  and  Cress  may 
now  be  made  where  a  warm  glass  house  or  frame 
IS  at  disposal.  Fill  some  shallow  boxes  with 
finely  sifted  sandy  soil  and  sow  the  seed  thickly 
■  m  the  surface  ;  do  not  cover  with  soil.  The 
Cress  should  be  sown  a  week  in  advance  of 
ibe  Mustard  at  this  season,  as  it  grows  more 
slowly.  H. 

WHAT  TO  DO  WITH  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
AFTER  FLOWERING. 

Thrre  are  many  beginners  in  gardening  who 
fully  appreciate  the  real  worth  of  Chrysanthe- 
mums in  the  dull  season  of  the  late  autumn,  but 
who  know  little  or  nothing  respecting  the 
cultivation  of  what  is  generally  known  as  the 
"  Autumn  Queen." 

Not  seldom  a  novice  comes  into  the  possession 
of  a  plant  or  two  when  they  are  in  full  bloom,  or 
else  when  the  flowering  season  has  come  to  an 
end.     Then  is  born  a  desire  to  perpetuate  plants 


of  the  variety  that  has  given  so  much  pleasure, 
and  it  is  here  that  the  real  difficulty  of  the 
beginner  arises. 

To  leave  the  old  stems  on  the  plants  when  the 
flowers  are  past  or  useless  is  a  mistake,  as  they 
are  hindering  the  development  of  new  basal 
shoots.  It  should  be  the  aim  of  the  grower  to 
assist  the  plants  to  evolve  short,  sturdy  young 
growths,  and  this  can  only  be  done  by  cutting 
down  the  plants  after  they  have  gone  out  of 
flower  and  placing  them  in  a  light,  airy  position, 
either  in  a  cool  glass  structure  or  in  the  window 
of  a  spare  room  in  a  warm,  sunny  aspect,  or  in  a 
window  where  gas  is  not  burnt  in  the  room.  A 
shelf  near  the  glass  in  a  cool  greenhouse  is  an 
ideal  situation  for  Chrysanthemum  stools,  as  the 
old  plants  are  called  after  they  have  been  out 
down  in  the  late  autumn  or  early  winter. 

Chrysanthemums  differ  much  in  their  character, 
however.  Some  plants  develop  basal  shoots  in 
abundance,   and  others  are    extremely    shy    in 


2. — A   GOOD  CHRYSANTHEMUM  CUTTING   ON  THE 

LEFT.        ON     THE    RIGHT    A    BAD    CUTTING    - 
WITH     A     FLOWEB-BUD     IN     ITS     APEX     IS 
SHOWN. 

making  new  shoots,  and  these  are  not  infrequently 
some  of  the  best  sorts.  So  scarce  are  the 
cuttings  of  these  shy  varieties,  and  so  difficult 
to  encourage  into  growth  when  ordinary  methods 
of  culture  are  observed,  that  special  means  are 
taken  to  procure  cuttings  from  the  old  stems  of 
the  plants  in  order  to  increase  the  grower's 
chances  of  success.  It  is  usual  to  retain  a  good 
length  of  the  old  stem  of  the  plant  of  these 
"  shy  "  varieties,  as  growths  will  in  due  course 
develop  all  the  way  up  the  stem,  and  the  best 
and  most  promising  of  these  are  detached  and 
used  for  making  into  cuttings.  Stem  cuttings, 
as  this  type  of  cutting  is  termed  by  growers,  are 
not  desired,  but  as  these  are  the  only  ones  that 
are  procurable  on  many  plants,  they  must  be 
selected. 

To  show  what  should  be  done  with  plants 
after  they  have  gone  out  of  flower,  two  plants 
that  have  been  treated  quite  differently  are 
shown  in  Fig.  1.  That  on  the  left  is  a  plant 
known  to  be  somewhat  indisposed  to  make  basal 
growths ;  for  this  reason  a  good  length  of  the 
old  stem  has  been  retained,  and  on  this  it  can  be 
seen  new  shoots  are  already  developing.  Growths 
that  are  free  from  a  bud  at  their  apices  should  be 
secured,  if  possible ;  but  if  they  are  all  bad  in 
this  respect  the  buds  should  be  pinched  out. 
On  the  right  of  the  illustration  the  reader  will 
observe  an  old  stool  that  has  been  out  well  down 
to  the  base,  as  the  growths  from  the  base  are 
strong  and  numerous  and  of  a  kind  that  are 
likely  to  make  good  cuttings.  The  plants  have 
been  shaken  out  of  their  flowering  pots  the 
better  to  illustrate  the  subject.     Where  a  large 


December  4,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


593 


3. — A  SERIES  OF  GOOD  CnTTINGS  PROPERLY 
PREPARED  AND  READY  FOR  INSEiRTION. 
THAT  ON  THE  EXTREME  LEFT  IS  THE 
GOOD   CUTTING   SHOWN   IN   FIG.    2. 

number  of  plants  are  grown  and  space  in  the 
greenhouse,  &c.,  has  to  be  eoonomised,  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  treat  the  old  stools  in  this  fashion, 
taking  care,  however,  to  tie  the  label  denoting 
the  name  of  the  variety  securely  to  that  portion 
of  the  old  stem  retained.  Some  growers  reduce 
the  ball  of  soil  of  these  old  plants  and  embed 
them  in  boxes  or  in  beds  of  soil  made  up 
on  the  greenhouse  bench.  In  this  way  space  is 
economised  and  good  healthy  cuttings  produced. 

Our  next  concern  is  to  deal  with  the  cuttings 
as  they  are  ready.  In  Fig.  2  will  be  seen  a  good 
and  a  bad  cutting.  That  on  the  left  of  the 
picture  shows  a  shoot  of  free  growth  without  a 
bud  at  its  apex,  and  of  a  most  promising  charac- 
ter. This  has  been  detached  from  the  base  of 
the  old  stool  at  a  short  distance  removed  from 
the  old  stem  ;  seldom  are  these  cuttings  unsatis- 
factory. On  the  right  of  the  photograph  is  shown 
a  somewhat  slender  shoot  with  a  bud  at  its  apex  ; 
such  growths  seldom  make  satisfactory  cuttings, 
and  in  all  cuttings  of  this  kind  the  buds  must  be 
pinched  out  before  propagation. 

Fig.  3  represents  a  series  of  cuttings  properly 
prepared  and  ready  for  insertion.  That  on  the 
extreme  left  of  the  illustration  is  the  same  good 
cutting  as  was  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  the  others 
are  included  to  show  the  difference  in  the 
character  of  good  types  of  Chrysanthemum 
cuttings.  To  make  a  cutting,  the  lower  leaves 
are  trimmed  oif  close  to  the  stem  with  a  sharp 
knife  and  the  stem  cut  through  with  a  clean  cut 
just  below  a  joint.  A  joint  is  that  portion  of  the 
stem  where  the  leaf-stalk  adheres  to  it.  The 
length  of  a  cutting  should  be  anything  between 
2J  inches  and  3  inches,  or  rather  more. 

The  insertion  of  the  cuttings  is  our  next  con- 
cern. The  composition  of  the  soil  is  an  all- 
important  item.  A  suitable  compost  may  be 
obtained  by  using  loam  and  decayed  leaf-soil  in 
equal  parts  and  passing  these  through  a  sieve 
with  a  half-inch  mesh,  mixing  thoroughly.  Add 
to  the  foregoing  a  one-eighth  part  of  coarse  silver 
sand,  and  this  will  make  the  mixture  porous  and 
suitable  for  the  purpose ;  thoroughly  mix  the 
ingredients,  however,  before  using.  The  cuttings 
may  be  rooted  singly  in  "thumb"  pots,  placing 
one  cutting  in  the  centre  of  each  pot,  or  a  number 
of  cuttings  may  be  inserted  around  the  edge  of  a 
larger  pot,  and  a  few  placed  in  the  centre  also. 

After  crocking  and  filling  the  pots  with  soil, 
proceed  to  insert  the  cuttings.  Use  a  small, 
blunt-pointed  dibber,  and  make  a  hole  of  suffi- 
cient depth  to  just  embed  the  cutting  to  the 
second  joint.  See  that  the  cutting  rests  on  the 
sand  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole,  and  then  press 
the  soil  firmly  to  its  base  and  also  round  it. 

In  Fig.  i  a  cutting  inserted  in  a  "  thumb  "  pot 
is  shown  on  the  left,  and  on  the  right  the  section 
of  another  pot  out  through  in  such  a  way  that 
the  method  of  crocking,  &o. ,  may  be  clearly  seen. 
To  complete  the  operation,  water  in  the  cuttings 
lightly  with  clear  water  from  a  fine-rosed  can, 
and  after  leaving  for  a  time  to  drain,  place  them 


in  the  greenhouse  or  in  any  rough  framework, 
on  the  cool  greenhouse  bench,  or  some  such  con- 
trivance in  the  window  where  they  can  be 
attended  to  from  time  to  time.  Strive  to  main- 
tain a  temperature  of  from  40°  to  45°.  Do  not 
keep  the  cuttings  in  an  absolutely  air-tight  con- 
dition, or  they  may  damp  off.  D.  B.  C. 

BULBS    IN    BOWLS    FOR    DECORATION. 

[In  Reply  to  "  A  Flower  Lover."] 
The  bulbs  of  Hyacinths,  Narcissi,  Tulips  and 
Irises  may  be  grown  quite  well  in  bowls  in  pre- 
pared moss-fibre  obtainable  from  Mr.  R.  Syden- 
ham, Tenby  Street,  Birmingham,  no  stone  being 
required  for  the  purpose.  Formerly,  however, 
the  Chinese  Joss  Lily,  which  is  a  form  of 
Narcissus  Tazetta,  was  grown  in  water  in  bowls, 
the  bulbs  being  kept  in  position  with  stones.  The 
moss-fibre  is  a  much  more  useful  and  convenient 
article.  Having  purchased  the  bulbs  and  planted 
them  in  the  ordinary  way,  leaving  the  point  of 
the  bulbs  just  visible  at  the  surface,  the  fibre 
may  be  moistened  if  necessary,  and  the  entire 
batch  placed  in  a  cellar  or  similar  place  where 
darkness  prevails,  together  with,  if  possible,  cool, 
moist  conditions.  If  these  latter  are  not  present 
they  should  be  created,  as  the  good  growth  of 
the  bulbs  require  it.  About  a  month  after  plant- 
ing, when  rooting  is  well  in  progress,  a  good 
watering  should  be  given,  particularly  to  Hya- 
cinths and  Narcissi,  the  others  named  requiring 
less,  though  none  of  them  should  at  any  time 
lack  root  moisture. 

All  such  as  Hyacinths,  Narcissi  and  Lily  of 
the  Valley  revel  in  abundant  supplies  of  water, 
and  the  roots  of  these  things  will  quickly  descend 
and  coil  around  the  base  ol  the  bowl  where  most 
moisture  abounds.  It  is  during  the  early  stages 
of  growth — say,  the  first  five  or  six  weeks — that 
the  greater  care  is  needed,  and  during  that  time, 
if  the  bulbs  are  packed  away  in  a  cellar,  outhouse, 
large  packing-case  or  frame  where  darkness  and 
uniformly  moist — not  wet — conditions  prevail, 
the  requisite  attention  will  be  practically  nil. 
When  top  growth,  i.e.,  leaves  and  flower-spikes, 
begins  to  appear,  the  plants  must  be  gradually 
brought  out  into  the  light,  placing  them,  if 
possible,  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  where  occasional 
damping  may  be  afforded  and  where  the  atmo- 
spheric conditions  are  not  dry  or  arid. 


THE   TOWN    GARDEN. 


Work  in  the  Garden. — In  December  the  work 
done  in  the  open  garden  should  be  of  such  a 
nature  that  it  will  be  bene- 
ficial to  the  health  of  the 
worker  as  well  as  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  garden. 
There  are  thousands  of  persons 
in  towns  and  their  suburbs 
who  take  up  gardening  as  a 
hobby,  a  recreation,  and  as  a 
means  of  beautifying  the  im- 
mediate surroundings  of  their 
dwelling  -  houses.  At  every 
season  of  the  year  there  is 
special  work  to  be  done,  and, 
in  winter-time  especially,  care 
must  be  taken  in  dealing  with 
that  work.  The  enthusiastic 
amateur  forgets  self  in  many 
instances,  and  cares  more  for 
his  favourites  in  the  garden. 
I  can  quite  understand  it  all ; 
but  I  would  utter  a  note  of 
warning  against  rashness  in 
various  ways — for  example, 
standing  about  in  thin-soled 
boots  on  a  sodden  lawn  or  a 
wet,  clammy  soil  when 
engaged  in  light  work ;  nailing 
or  tying  up  climbing  plants 
against  draughty  walls  and  inj 


passages  on  a  very  cold  day ;  remaining  out  when 
the  coat  is  nearly  wet  through.  Select  a  calm, 
sunny  morning  for  doing  the  nailing  up  and  prun- 
ing of  plants ;  put  on  thiok-soled  boots  when  deal- 
ing with  the  border  work,  and  when  the  weather 
is  very  cold  do  some  digging  or  similar  work  that 
will  warm  and  benefit  the  system.  I  am  quite 
sure  that  amateur  cultivators  can  easily  arrange 
the  work  so  that  all  will  be  done  in  the  most 
pleasant  circumscanees  and  not  in  the  worst. 
The  greenhouses,  conservatories,  frames,  glass 
porches  and  windows  all  claim  attention  ;  there 
is  work  to  be  done  in  them  which  may  be  carried 
out  in  the  very  worst  weather. 

Worms  and  Lawns. — During  the  summer- 
time we  are  rarely  troubled  with  unsightly 
worm-oasts  on  the  lawns,  but  throughout  the 
autumn,  the  milder  part  of  winter  and  in  spring 
we  are  much  annoyed  at  the  unsightly  little 
heaps.  At  the  present  time  the  worms  are 
working  very  near  the  surface  and  are  more 
numerous  in  some  soils  than  in  others.  I  will 
here  give  two  recipes  for  the  destruction  of 
worms  wholesale.  The  first  is  as  follows  :  Dis- 
solve loz.  of  corrosive  sublimate  (bichloride  of 
mercury)  in  thirty  or  thirty-six  gallons  of  water 
and  carefully  water  the  lawn  with  the  liquid 
through  a  fine-rosed  watering-can.  In  a  very 
short  time  the  worms  will  come  to  the  surface 
and  must  be  swept  up,  as  they  are  poisoned,  and 
if  fowls  eat  them  they  will  suffer  too.  The 
second  is  as  follows  :  Place  a  heaped  peck  of 
quicklime  in  a  vessel  containing  thirty-six 
gallons  of  water,  stir  well  several  times  during 
the  day,  then  allow  the  sediment  to  settle  at  the 
bottom,  and  the  following  day  use  the  clear 
liquid,  pouring  it  on  the  lawn  through  a  rosed 
watering-can.  The  water  must  be  put  on  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  thoroughly  saturate  the 
soil  to  a  depth  of  about  6  inches.  The  worms 
will  quickly  come  to  the  surface  and  die,  and 
then  they  should  be  swept  away.  Of  course,  it 
is  scarcely  possible  to  eradicate  every  worm,  and 
in  time  others  will  commence  throwing  up  tlieir 
little  mounds  of  soil,  but  not  to  any  appreciable 
extent  during  the  remainder  of  this  winter. 

Fallen  Leaves. — It  is  really  wonderful  how 
the  leaves  from  a  single  tree  will  collect  in  odd 
corners  and  among  the  lower  branches  of  the 
shrubs.  From  paths  and  lawns  it  is  an  easy 
matter  to  brush  the  leaves,  but  from  the  shrubs 
hand-pioking  is  the  only  effective  way.  They 
must  be  so  removed,  else,  when  dry,  odd  ones  get 
detached  and  blown  on  to  the  lawns  and  flower- 
beds, thus  creating  an  untidy  appearance 
throughout  the  winter  and  spring  months  at  a 
time  when  special  efforts  should  be  made  to 
secure  a  neat  appearance.  Avon. 


4. — methods  of  liJSERTING  CUTTINGS.  ON  THE  RIGHT  IS  A 
SECTION  OF  POT  IN  WHICH  THE  METHOD  OF  CROCKING  AND 
THE  INSERTION  OF  THE  CUTTINGS  IS  SHOWN.  ON  THE  LEFT 
IS  SEEN  AN  INDIVIDUAL  CUTTING   IN    A   "THUMB"   POT. 


594 


THE    GARDEN. 


[December  4,  1909. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 

EARLY  VINES.— Vines  intended  to 
produce  ripe  Grapes  in  May  should 
now  be  started  by  keeping  the  house 
closed,  and  a  night  temperature  of 
50°  to  55°  and  a  rise  of  1U°  by  day 
only  allowed.  Let  the  hot- water  pipes 
be  only  slightly  warmed  at  the  commencement, 
and  increase  the  heat  when  the  sap  of  the  Vines 
is  in  motion.  Syringe  the  rods  twice  daily  with 
tepid  water,  and  damp  the  paths  and  beds  when 
re(juired  with  water  at  the  same  temperature  as 
the  house.  If  the  roof  of  the  house  is  moderately 
flat,  the  rods  may  be  placed  in  their  proper 
positions  ;  but  if  the  roof  is  high  and  the  Vines 
are  young,  tie  them  in  a  horizontal  position  till  the 
buds  have  pushed  fresh  growths.  If  the  borders 
are  outside,  a  good  bed  of  sweet  fermenting 
material,  such  as  leaves  and  manure  well  mixed, 
should  be  placed  over  the  roots.  The  best  varieties 
for  forcing  I  have  found  are  Black  Hamburgh, 
Madresfield  t'ourt,  Foster's  Seedling  and  Buck- 
land  Sweetwater ;  all  thrive  equally  well  in 
the  same  temperature  and  with  the  same  treat- 
ment. 

Peaches. — For  supplying  early  fruits,  the 
earliest  house  (assuming  the  trees  have  been 
thoroughly  cleansed  and  put  in  order)  may  now 
be  closed.  If  mild  nights  are  experienced,  the 
heat  need  not  be  turned  on  for  a  week  or  ten 
days,  when  a  slight  warmth  in  the  pipes  may  be 
applied.  At  first  the  night  temperature  should 
range  from  45°  to  50°,  and  as  soon  as  they  com- 
mence to  flower  55°  by  night  should  be  given 
and  60°  by  day  during  bright  weather.  I  have 
always  found  the  Peach  to  set  fruit  freely  in  a 
night  temperature  of  55°.  Syringe  twice  daily 
in  bright  weather  and  less  when  foggy,  being 
content  with  ample  moisture  arising  from 
damp  paths  and  trellises.  If  any  young 
trees  are  yet  to  be  planted,  they  should  be 
attended  to  without  delay.  Good  varieties  will 
be  found  in  Hale's  Early,  Dymond,  Violette 
Hative,  Bellegarde,  Stirling  Castle,  Crimson 
Galande,  Noblesse,  Barrington,  Walburton 
Admirable,  the  Nectarine  Peach  and  Princess  of 
Wales.  Nectarines  :  Lord  Napier,  Pine  Apple, 
Humboldt  and  Stanwiek  Elruge. 
Plant  Houses. 
The  Stove. — Most  stove  plants  will  do  with  as 
little  heat  at  this  season  as  at  any  period,  but  the 
temperature  must  be  kept  sufficiently  warm  to 
keep  the  plants  healthy  ;  keeping  the  foliage  of 
the  plants  clean  will  require  every  attention.  To 
reduce  the  use  of  the  sponge,  I  much  prefer  a 
slight  syringing  of  the  foliage  with  a  mixture  of 
paraffin  and  soft  soap,  followed  by  a  syringing 
with  clean  warm  water. 

Tulips,  Narcissi,  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Hyacinths 
and  many  of  the  hardy  shrubs  may  now  be 
started  in  a  gentle  heat,  and  will  force  more 
readily  than  at  an  earlier  period.  Do  not  over- 
water,  and  keep  the  temperature  moist.  All 
plants  should  be  brought  forward  gradually  and 
in  batches  to  meet  the  demand.  This  will  allow 
the  flowers  to  develop  more  fully.  Keep  all 
bedding  plants  slightly  on  the  dry  side  at  this 
season,  but  do  not  let  them  suffer  from  over- 
dryness.  Plants  in  pots  stood  over  the  hot-water 
pipes  when  the  heat  is  turned  on  are  somewhat 
misleading  and  are  very  apt  to  get  too  drj-. 
Those  in  charge  of  the  watering  should  at  in- 
tervals examine  the  roots  by  turning  one  out  of 
the  pot,  and  if  found  very  dry  supply  water 
twice  or  three  times  till  the  whole  of  the  roots 
and  soil  is  thoroughly  soaked.  Mere  driblets 
should  not  be  given.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 
Wrotham  Park  Gardens,  Barnel. 


FOR    THE    NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower  Garden. 
Herbaceous  Borders. — Any  division  or  trans- 
planting of  the  various  subjects  occupying 
these  not  yet  completed  should  be  carried  out 
without  delay.  Where  a  fresh  site  can  be 
requisitioned,  and  this  having  been  well  prepared 
by  manuring  and  trenching,  the  work  is  greatly 
simplified.  Some  species  increase  in  size  so 
rapidly  that  it  becomes  necessary  to  curtail 
extension  about  every  three  years.  If  divided 
and  replanted,  only  the  outer  portion  should  be 
used,  the  central  and  generally  most  barren  part 
being  discarded.  The  grouping  system  of  planting, 
whereby  the  varieties  of  a  given  species  are  kept 
together  rather  than  being  mixed  one  with 
another,  is  much  in  favour,  and  if  the  scheme 
of  arrangement  is  well  defined  beforehand,  the 
ultimate  effect  is  very  pleasing.  If  possible, 
carry  out  the  planting  when  the  soil  works 
cleanly,  so  that  it  may  be  made  quite  firm  about 
the  roots ;  and  after  the  surface  is  properly 
finished  off  a  dressing  of  leaf-mould  over  all, 
or  at  least  around  the  plants,  will  greatly 
protect  the  roots  from  frost. 

Exhibition  Flowers. — The  great  and  apparently 
increasing  herbaceous  classes  at  shows  have 
engendered  enquiries  as  to  the  best  species  to 
cultivate  for  this  purpose,  and  as  it  is  obvious 
that  many  well  suited  for  border  decoration  are 
not  so  good  when  cut  for  vases  or  for  travelling  a 
long  distance  from  where  grown,  the  following 
list  of  species,  each  of  which  comprises  several 
varieties,  as  any  up-to-date  plant  catalogue  will 
show,  may  be  relied  on  to  produce  flowers  in 
abundance  for  several  weeks  in  late  summer 
and  autumn  :  Achillea,  Alstra'meria,  Anemone, 
Campanula,  Chelone,  Cimicifuga,  Helenium, 
Lathyrus,  Montbretia,  Gentiana,  Gypsophila, 
Sidalcea,  Statice,  Helianthus,  Rudbeckia, 
Franooa,  Lobelia  oardinalis,  Crinums  and 
Eucomis.  The  last-named  four  are  not  hardy 
in  very  cold  districts,  but  in  favoured  positions 
generally  pass  through  winters  of  average  severity 
unharmed. 

Pleasure  Grounds. 

Evergreen  Trees  and  Shrubs. — The  planting  or 
transplanting  of  these  being  now  completed, 
attention  should  be  given  to  the  deciduous 
species.  In  doing  this  it  is  prudent  to  con- 
sider the  probable  size  and  spread  of  branches 
these  will  ultimately  attain,  and  select  positions 
and  give  sufficient  space  between  them  for  full 
development.  This  arranged,  the  intermediate 
distance  may  be  occupied  by  the  smaller-growing 
species,  which  can  bo  removed  with  comparative 
ease  at  any  time  should  the  giant  form  of  an  Oak, 
Beech  or  Cedar  unduly  overshadow  them. 

Planting.  — To  use  entirely  fresh  soil  for  a  great 
number  of  trees  is  a  large  undertaking,  and  is  in 
most  cases  quite  unnecessary.  Spaces  4  feet  or 
5  feet  in  diameter  being  marked,  the  soil  may  be 
thrown  out,  in  the  operation  placing  that  of  good 
quality  apart  from  the  inferior  until  a  depth  of 
at  least  2  feet  is  reached.  Return  the  former  to 
the  excavation,  and  make  up  with  fresh  material 
in  which  to  plant  the  trees.  All  standard  trees 
or  others  apt  to  be  swayed  by  wind  should  be 
securely  staked  as  soon  as  planted. 

Pits  and  Frames. 

Violets  should  be  frequently  examined  for 
decaying  leaves,  and  have  the  soil  stirred  between 
the  plants  at  the  same  time.  Protection  must 
now  be  given  in  the  event  of  frost ;  but  otherwise 
give  plenty  of  fresh  air  day  and  night,  taking  care, 
however,  that  during  heavy  rains  the  plants  do 
not  receive  much  moisture. 

Bulbs. — As  these  become  rooted,  remove  them 
from  the  plunge-bed  to  a  sheltered  position 
in  a  subdued  light  until  the  natural  greenness  of 
the  foliage  is  assumed. 

James  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn.) 

Galloway  House,  Garlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


NEW    PLANTS. 


L.^^LI0  -  Cattleya  Nblthorpe  Beauclerk. — 
This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  members  of  this 
bigeneric  race  that  we  have  ever  seen,  its  parent- 
age being  given  as  L.-C.  gottonana  x  Cattleya 
Enid  magnifica.  The  flowers  are  large  and  of 
good  shape,  the  sepals  being  lanceolate  with 
acute  reflexed  apices,  the  colour  being  rosy  pink 
slightly  diffused  with  gold.  The  broad  petals 
are  a  combination  of  the  same  colours,  only  in 
them  the  suffused  gold  is  more  pronounced,  there 
being  a  decided  deep  rose  blotch  at  the  apex  of 
each,  this  extending  down  the  centre  vein.  The 
outside  of  the  labellum  is  rosy  carmine,  edged 
and  veined  with  suffused  gold,  the  interior  being 
very  rich  carmine  margined  pale  pink,  with  rich 
gold  extending  into  the  throat,  the  whole  being 
beautifully  fringed.  Shown  by  Messrs.  Charles- 
worth  and  Co.,  Hay  ward's  Heath.  First-olass 
certificate. 

Lcelio-Cattleya  Barbarossa  Westmibirt variety. — 
This  is  a  magnificent  variety  and  fully  worthy  of 
the  high  award  that  was  granted.  The  sepals  and 
petals  are  bright  rose  pink  in  colour  and  both  of 
the  same  shade,  the  large  labellum  being  the 
richest  possible  carmine,  with  a  deep  golden  yellow 
blotch  at  the  entrance  to  the  throat.  Shown  by 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Holford,  CLE.,  C.V.O., 
Westonbirt,  Tetbury,  Gloucester.  First-class 
certificate. 

Girrhnpetalum  longissimum. — A  very  beautiful 
and  striking  member  of  this  curious  family,  the 
large  inflorescence  taking  a  pendulous  position. 
At  the  end  of  the  slender  stalk  the  flowers  are 
clustered  together,  these  in  form  resembling 
somewhat  the  stocking  caps  worn  by  children, 
the  pointed  portion  being  extended  into  a  thread. 
The  colour  is  dull  cream  veined  with  pink,  the 
small  sepal  being  veined  dull  crimson.  Shown 
by  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  Bart.,  K.C.V.O.,  Bur- 
ford,  Dorking.     First-class  certificate. 

Gypripedium  Boltomii. — Practically  apure  white 
and  very  opaque  Cypripedium  of  great  distinc- 
tiveness and  beauty.  There  is  just  a  suggestion 
of  very  pale  green  at  the  base  of  the  segments, 
but  it  is  a  handsome  and  pure  flower,  though  the- 
size  is  rather  small.  Shown  by  W.  Bolton, 
Esq. ,  Wilderspool,  Warrington.  First  -  class 
certificate. 

Gattleya  Dirce  superba. — A  beautiful,  nearly 
self-coloured  Orchid,  the  flowers  of  which  are  of 
medium  size.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  both 
rosy  carmine  in  colour,  the  interior  of  the  labellum 
being  deep  carmine,  this  organ  being  very 
daintily  frilled.  In  the  throat  a  slight  pale 
yellow  venation  is  present.  Shown  by  Lieu- 
tenant-Colonel Holford,  C.I.E.,  C.V.O.  Award 
of  merit. 

Liiiio-Cattleya  King  Manoel. — A  pleasing 
flower  of  particularly  rich  colouring  and  medium 
size.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  nearly  the  same 
size  and  shape,  the  colour  being  rich  brownish 
orange.  The  small,  reflexing  labellum  is  rich 
crimson  at  its  base  and  apex,  a  large,  rich  yellow 
blotch  being  placed  across  the  centre.  Shown 
by  F.  A.  Wellesley,  J. P.,  Westfield,  Woking. 
Award  of  merit. 

Zygo-Golax  Charlesworthii. — This  is  a  very 
curious  bigeneric  hybrid  that  attracted  much 
attention.  The  flowers  are  rather  small,  both 
petals  and  sepals  being  acutely  ovate  in  form, 
the  pale  green  ground  colour  being  heavily 
mottled  with  brownish  crimson.  The  medium- 
sized  labellum,  which  is  set  almost  at  right  angles 
to  the  other  segments,  is  rich  violet  in  colour, 
with  a  little  pure  white  blotching  at  the  margin. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  Charlesworth  and  Co.  Award 
of  merit. 

Pelargonium  His  Majesty.  — A  really  Euperb 
novelty  of  crimson-scarlet  colour  with  large  and 
conspicuous  white  eye.  The  individual  flowers 
are  of  remarkable  size,  the  trusses  bold  and 
handsome  and  produced  with  great  freedom. 
Shown  by  Mr.  W.  H.  Page,  Tangley  Park 
Nursery,  Hampton.     Award  of  merit. 


December  4r,  1909.] 


THE     GAEDEN. 


595 


■  Ghrysanihemum  Miss  Lilian  Bnllivant. — A 
very  charming  and  well-formed  single  variety  of 
the  Mary  Anderson  type  and  of  creamy  yellow 
aolour.  The  undisbudded  sprays  as  shown  were 
very  beautiful.  Shown  by  Mrs.  BuUivant, 
Beokenham.     Award  of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  J.  B.  Lowe. — We  regard  this 
as  the  most  brilliantly  coloured  single  we  have 
yet  seen.  The  colour  is  crimson,  shaded  scarlet ; 
flower-heads  of  large  size  ;  florets  pointed  and 
recurving  at  the  points.  All  the  sprays  shown 
were  particularly  well  flowered.  A  very  fine 
colour  for  artificial  light  and  most  brilliant  in 
sunlight. 

Chrysanthemum  Mensa. — A  lovely  large  white 
single-flowered  variety  of  great  purity  and 
beauty  of  form.  The  flower-heads  are  some 
4  inches  across  and  quite  circular.  Superb  for 
exhibition  work  or  decoration.  This  pair  came 
from  H.  J.  Jones,  Limited,  Lewisham,  and  each 
received  an  award  of  merit. 

Ohrysanthemum  Mrs.  W.  BucJeinoham. — A 
graceful  and  beautiful  single-flowered  variety  of 
blush  pink  colour  that  cannot  fail  to  please.  The 
flower-heads  are  large  and  well  formed.  Shown 
by  Mr.  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond.  Award  of 
merit. 

Nephrolepis  splendens. — A  novel,  distinct  and 
graceful  plant  of  considerable  beauty  and  merit. 
Shown  by  Messrs.  H.  B.  May  and  Sons,  Upper 
Edmonton.     Award  of  merit. 

All  the  foregoing  were  shown  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  the  23rd  ult. ,  when  the 
awards  were  made. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES   FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  Answers.— TAc  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  toith  that  object  will  inake  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Gauden,  30,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.  C.  Letters  on  bitsiness  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  i?i  the 
paper.  When  tnore  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Treatment  of  Lilies  (West  Sussex) — 

Unfortunately,  you  do  not  say  what  kind  of  Lily 
you  refer  to,  but  if  it  is  the  white  Madonna  Lily, 
this  prefers  an  open  and  sunny  spot,  and,  pro- 
vided it  is  not  under  the  drip  of  trees,  is  not 
particularly  fastidious  as  to  position  or  soil. 
Perhaps  you  would  prefer  to  repeat  this  portion 
of  your  letter  with  fuller  particulars.  Both  the 
Anemones  and  Ranunculus  prefer  an  open  spot  in 
light,  well-drained  loam,  the  opposite  position  of 
cold,  retentive  clay  not  suiting  them  at  all.  It  is 
also  important  that  the  tubers  of  these  plants  be 
lifted  each  year  and  given  a  long  rest  prior  to 
replanting.  The  Ranunculus  in  some  districts  is 
much  affected  by  one  of  the  leaf-miners,  which 
early  disfigures  the  leaves  and  prevents  the  due 
performance  of  their  functions.  The  soil,  of 
course,  may  be  altogether  too  sandy,  and  in  this 
way  opposed  to  good  growth.  Usually,  however, 
all  else  being  equal,  the  two  groups  do  quite  well 
under  similar  treatment. 

Ppesepving'  early  flowering'  Chpysan- 
themums  ((?.  Walton). — Lift  the  stools  without  further 
delay,  and  if  many  sucker  shoots  are  apparent,  detach 
these  and  lay  them  in  deeply  at  the  foot  of  a  south  wall  or 
in  a  frame.  The  old  stools  may  also  be  laid  in  or  planted 
in  much  the  same  way,  and  the  twain  in  spring  should 
produce  ample  stock  for  ordinary  purposes.  Should  the 
presence  of  slugs  be  feared,  dust  the  stools  around  occasion- 
ally with  fresh  soot.  Where  only  a  limited  number  are  re- 
quired, the  sucker-like  shoots  make  very  good  plants  if 


grown  on  freely.  You  should  not  start  propagating  too 
early,  as  frequently  such  plants  become  hard  and  hide- 
bound and  are  rarely  satisfactory  afterwards. 

Divldingr  Auljpiettas  ('V.  Wnlton).  —  You  may 
certainly  divide  the  plants  at  any  time  now,  though  it 
would  not  be  prudent  to  leave  the  work  too  long.  The 
long,  straggling  shoots  are  useless,  and  should  be  dis- 
carded. Before  lifting  cut  the  plant  back  with  scissors  or 
shears,  and  divide  the  central  portion  into  compact  tufts. 
Only  fresh  young  shoots  of  an  inch  or  more  long  are  of  use 
as  cuttings,  and  these  should  be  inserted  in  August,  the 
old  plants  having  been  specially  cut  back  after  the  summer 
flowering,  and  so  made  to  produce  cuttings  of  the  right 
sort. 

Removingr  bulbs  from  gapden  (H.  P.  M.). 
The  only  thing  to  be  done — seeing  that  in  March  or  Api  il 
next  the  plants  will  be  in  full  growth— is  to  lift  at  once 
anything  you  require  for  removal  at  the  time  stated  and 
replant  in  boxes  or  pots.  To  do  this  in  the  last  days  of 
November,  when  the  majority  of  such  plants  as  you  name 
will  have  made  much  root-growth,  will  of  a  surety  have 
a  very  weakening  effect  upon  the  plants  besides  entailing 
much  labour,  and  we  doubt  very  much  whether  some 
of  them  are  worth  the  trouble.  The  German  Irises, 
Alstrcemeria  and  Schizostylis  are  the  least  likely  to  suffer, 
while  the  Hyacinthus  may  be  lifted  and  practically  put  to 
rest.  For  the  remainder,  the  work  of  lifting  and  replant- 
ing should  be  done  at  once,  as  the  longer  such  work  is 
delayed  the  worse  will  it  be  for  the  subjects.  We  are 
assuming  that  the  bulbs  are  permanently  planted,  as  in 
this  case  a  more  active  root-growth  will  exist  than  were 
the  plants  only  recently  put  out.  The  pale  yellow  Lily 
like  a  Martagon  may  possibly  be  L.  pyrenaicum  flavum, 
though  it  is  not  like  the  Martagon  in  growth.  It  is  about 
2  feet  high  and  one  of  the  earliest  to  flower. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Roses  fop  a  new  Rose  garden 

{Small  House). — We  regret  we  cannot  give  a 
design  for  your  new  Rose  garden,  but  would 
refer  you  to  our  back  numbers,  in  which  you 
would  find  several  plans  that  would  help  you. 
We  have  much  pleasure  in  giving  you  the  benefit 
of  our  experience  in  the  making  of  the  new  beds. 
You  do  not  say  what  kind  of  soil  you  have, 
but,  generally  speaking,  Roses  prefer  a  clayey 
loam.  This  may  be  difficult  for  you  to  obtain  ; 
but  if  your  soil  will  grow  good  vegetables,  then  it 
should  grow  good  Roses.  If  the  beds  are  not  too 
large  it  is  best  to  throw  out  all  the  soil  to  a  depth 
of  about  3  feet.  Make  two  lots  of  this,  keeping 
the  lower  half  soil  by  itself.  Fork  up  the 
bottom  and  then  proceed  to  return  the  lower  half 
of  the  soil,  mixing  with  it  basic  slag  at  the  rate 
of  about  8oz.  to  a  square  yard  of  surface,  and 
also  farmyard  manure.  A  bed  of  about  6  feet  in 
diameter  would  require  about  four  barrowfuls 
of  manure,  and  this  should  not  be  brought  nearer 
the  surface  than  about  15  inches.  As  the  roots 
extend  they  will  find  it  out.  Into  the  upper  half 
of  soil  some  half -inch  bones  should  be  admixed 
pretty  liberally.  It  is  a  very  safe  and  also  a 
very  durable  fertiliser.  If  the  beds  are  elongated, 
then  you  can  divide  them  into  sections  for  the 
purposes  of  trenching,  but  be  careful  not  to 
bring  up  the  lower  soil.  It  is  enough  to  break 
it  up  and  mix  the  manure  with  it.  The  work 
should  be  done  as  quickly  as  possible.  We  have 
pleasure  in  giving  a  few  names  arranged  approxi- 
mately to  colour.  Those  marked  *  are  specially 
good,  and  those  marked  t  would  make  good 
standards  and  also  bushes :  White  and  blush — 
•Augustine  Guinoisseau,  Clara  Watson,  |Frau 
Karl  Drusohki,  *G.  Nabonnand,  *La  Tosea, 
*Mme.  A.  Mari,  Peace,  Pharisaer,  *Prinoe  de 
Bulgarie  and  fVisoountess  Folkestone.  Pinks — 
*Betty,  tCaroline  Testout,  Dean  Hole,  Earl  of 
Warwick,  *Gustave  Grunerwald,  Konigin  Carola, 
+La  France,  *Lady  Ashtown,  tMme.  Abel  Chate- 
nay,  *Mine.  Leon  Pain  and  fMrs.  John  Laing. 
Rose  colour — Camoens,  Countess  Cairns,  *Lady 
Battersea,  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill,  *Mme.  J.  Grolez, 
Mme.  Lambard  and  *Marie  Croibier.  Yellow, 
cream  and  orange  —  Gustave  Regis,  *  Joseph 
Hill,  *Lady  Roberts,  Mme.  C.  Guinoisseau, 
Mme.  Falcot,  *Mme.  Hoste,  *Mme.  Pernet- 
Ducher,  *Mme.  Ravary,  fMarie  Van  Houtte, 
*Melanie  Soupert,  *Mrs.  A.  Ward  and  *Sulphurea. 
Light  crimson — Corallina,  *General  MacArthur, 
tHugh  Dickson,  *Liberty,  Papa  Gontier,  Rich- 
mond and  tUlrioh  Brunner.  Dark  crimson  and 
maroon — 'Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot,  Griiss  an 
Sangerhausen,  *Laurent  Carle,  Louise  Van 
Houtte,   Marquise  de    Salisbury,   Princesse  de 


Sagan,  tPrinee  C.  de  Rohan  and  Victor  Hugo. 
You  must  endeavour  to  provide  some  small  beds 
for  the  charming  little  Polyantha  Roses  and  also 
the  Chinas  or  Monthlies.  A  few  of  the  best  are : 
Polyanthas — JAennchen  MuUer,  jAschenbrodel, 
E.  Lamescb,  Gloire  des  Polyantha,  Jessie,  JK. 
Zeimet,  JLeonie  Lamescb,  J  Mrs.  W.  H.  Cut- 
bush,  iPerle  d'Or  and  Petit  Constant.  Chinas — 
JArethusa,  Aurore,  Charlotte  Klemm,  tCom- 
tease  du  Cayla,  JMme.  E.  Resal  and  JQueen 
Mab.  Of  the  two  last  groups,  those  marked  J 
make  delightful  low  hedges  if  such  could  be 
worked  in  your  scheme  of  planting.  For  arches 
or  pillars  the  following  should  find  a  place  in 
your  small  rosary :  Dorothy  Perkins,  White 
Dorothy,  Hiawatha,  Goldfinch,  Blush  Rambler, 
Griiss  an  Zabern,  Tausendschiia,  Gitissan  Teplitz, 
Alberic  Barbier  and  Rene  Andre. 

Roses  not  opening  well  (4;WeeH).— Possibly  the 
buds  of  J.  B.  Clark  were  injured  by  late  spring  frosts. 
This  Rose  has  not  been  good  this  year.  It  is  not  nearly  so 
good  a  Rose  as  Hugh  Dickson.  We  think  you  must  be 
careful  when  pruning  to  cut  away  all  weakly  looking  wood 
and  treat  the  Rose  more  as  a  pillar  kind,  inducing  it  to 
bloom  from  the  long  young  growths  that  have  been  well 
ripened.  Maman  Cochet  is  notoriously  a  bad  Rose  to 
obtain  of  perfect  shape.  This,  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting 
and  White  Maman  Cochet  would  open  much  better 
if  you  planted  them  on  the  wall  which  you  say  is 
now  at  the  back  of  them.  The  wet  weather  has  been 
against  such  double  Roses  expanding  well.  If  possible, 
have  some  plants  of  each  in  half-standards  as  they  grow 
much  better  in  this  form. 


TREES    AND     SHRUBS- 

Wlilte  Broom  flowering  in 
November  (George  She/ton).  —  The  correct 
name  of  the  white  Broom  is  Cytisus  albus.  It 
is  a  very  uncommon  thing  for  it  to  bloom  in 
November,  but  the  same  kind  of  abnormal  flower- 
ing is  frequently  noticeable  among  other  shrubs 
and  also  among  trees.  The  Laburnum  frequently 
produces  a  few  flowers  during  autumn,  while 
some  of  the  spring-flowering  Spirsas  do  the 
same.  The  Horse  Chestnuts,  both  common  and 
red  flowered,  have  occasionally  been  noted  as 
blossoming  in  autumn,  while  other  Brooms  have 
been  noticed  flowering  out  of  season. 

Using  fpuits  of  Cydonia  (Pypus)  japonlca 

(R.  B.  Caution). — The  fruits  of  Cydonia  japuuica  may  be 
used  for  jelly-making  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  fruits  of 
the  common  (Juince.  They  are,  however,  inferior  to  the 
other  Japanese  ijuince,  Cydonia  Maulei,  for  the  purpose, 
which  are  considered  by  some  people  to  be  the  best  of  all 
the  Quinces  for  culinary  uses. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Seakale  roots  recently  pemoved  (A'.  A.  W.). 
If  the  roots  are  strong,  they  may  be  forced  all  right  later  on 
with  the  aid  of  manure  in  the  usual  way,  notwithstanding 
the  removal.  If  the  roots  are  weak,  it  would  pay  you 
better  to  let  them  grow  next  year  without  forcing  ;  they 
would  then  give  good  returns  the  following  spring.  We 
think  you  are  too  generous  in  your  ablutions  to  your 
Azaleas.  They  resent  it  in  the  only  way  open  to  them  by 
shedding  their  leaves.  Syringing  should  now  be  stopped 
altogether  ;  so  should  the  soaking  in  a  bucket  (this  is  all 
right  in  very  warm  weather),  and  the  condition  of  the  soil 
ascertained,  whether  damp  or  dry,  by  tapping  the  side  of 
the  pot  with  a  stick.  If  the  pot  rings  out  hollow,  then 
the  plants  require  watering  ;  if,  on  the  other  hand,  a  dull, 
dead  sound  is  the  result,  the  plant  is  wet  enongh,  and  no 
water  must  be  given.  The  falling  of  the  leaves  may  be 
due  to  thrip  or  red  spider.  Examine  the  leaves  carefully 
under  a  microscope,  and  if  you  find  it  is  so,  let  us  know, 
and  we  will  tell  you  what  to  do  to  get  rid  of  them.  Rasp- 
berries should  be  pruned  at  once,  and  they  and  the  Straw- 
berries be  manured  as  early  as  possible. 

Names  of  fpult.— Fix/i.— l,  Marie  Louise;  2.  pro- 
bably Winter  Nells ;  3,  Autumn  Bergamot ;  i.  Queen 
Apple. 

Names  of  plants.— ^.  B.  H.— Gentiana  scabra. • 

C.  R.  D.—\,  Canna  indica ;  2,  please  send  in  flower;  3, 
Grevillea  robusta  ;  4,  Selaginella  Brauuii ;  6,  Strobilanthes 
dyerianns ;     6,    Chlorophytum    elatum ;     7,    Ophiopogon 

Jaburan  variegatus  ;  S,  O.  japonicus. 5.  H.  B.— Halesia 

tetraptera. Jaoiex  Rnlpath.—A  form  of  Ulmus  glabra 

which  has  probably  originated  as  a  chance  seedling. 

Amateur.— The  Violet  is  Marie  Louise. Captain  0.  W. 

Oonion.—Tbs   Spindle    Tree   (Euonymus    europseus). 

J.  W.—\  and  2,  Asplenium  Trichomanes  ;  3,  A.  Ruta- 
muraria;  4,  Aspidium  angulare.  The  name  Stag's- 
horn  Fern  is  applied  to  the  species  of  Platycerium  in 

general. fl.  ',).— 1,  Scrophularia  aquatica  variety  varie- 

gata ;  2,  Acsena  Novse-Zelandise  ;  ;!,  Thymus  Serpyllum 
lanuginosus ;  4,  T.  azoricus  ;  :^,  Cerastium  tomeutosum  ;  6, 
Sedum  spurium. i?'/.v/(.— Cosmos  bipinnatus. 


596 


THE    GARDEN. 


(December  4,  1909. 


SOCIETIES. 

NORFOLK    AND    NORWinn    CHRYSANTHEMUM 
SHOW. 

This  annual  event  (a  descendant  from  one  of  the  flr8t 
Chrysanthemum  exhibitiouain  tlie  kinjidom)  was  held  in  the 
St.  Andrew's  and  Blackfriars  Halls,  Norwich,  on  Xovember 
IS,  19  and  20.  Of  latter  years  there  has  been  somewhat  a 
downward  tendency  in  the  attendance.  This  year  it  took  a 
more  favourable  turn.  Several  classes  were  devoted  to  the 
llowers  of  the  larfje  Japaupse  forms  to  enable  the  small 
grower  to  have  a  chance.  The  blooms  generally  were  of 
better  quality  than  last  year;  there  was  a  distinct  fresh- 
ness in  appearance  and  brightness  of  colour.  T.  A.  Rising, 
Esif.,  Ormesly,  Yarmouth,  took  premier  position  for  forty- 
eielit  blooms  and  secured  tlie  silver  medal  of  the  National 
Cliryeantliemum  Society  for  the  best  ))loom  In  the  show 
with  a  good  specimen  of  Reginald  Vallis. 

F.  J.  0.  Montague,  Esq.,  Lynford  Hall  Gardens,  a  new 
exhibitor,  won  for  thirty-six  blooms,  just  beating  Mr. 
Edmund  Reeve,  Catton  Grange,  who  has  won  in  previous 
years  in  this  class.  Incurved,  Pompon,  single  and 
naturally  grown  decorative  varieties  all  had  their 
classes  and  were  fairly  well  contested.  The  claas  for  a 
circular  group  S  feet  in  diameter  brought  out  three  com- 
petitors. Mr.  W.  Palmer,  gardener  to  J.  B.  Coaks,  Esq., 
Thorpe,  staged  a  beautiful  arrangement  and  secured  the 
challenge  cup  and  first  prize.  Mr.  C.  Burtenshaw.  gar- 
dener to  H.  Skelton,  Esq.,  Norwich,  was  a  creditable 
second;  and  Mr.  W.  Rush,  gardener  to  F.  P.  Hinde,  Esq., 
Tliorpe,  third. 

Besides  the  Chrysanthemums  in  the  floral  section,  there 
were  many  other  subjects  of  special  interest  to  the 
horticulturist.  AVe  must  mention  the  flue  Carnations 
8  aged  by  Mr.  W.  Allan,  Gunton  Park  Gardens ;  also  Mr. 
Combe,  gardener  to  Lord  de  Ramsey,  and  Mr.  W.  Lawe, 
gardener  to  G.  E.  White,  Esq.,  Norwich. 

Choice  exotic  flowers  wera  exhibited  by  Mr.  Lewis  Smith, 
gardener  to  Robert  Fellowes,  Esq.,  Shotesham,  and  Mr. 
Hilndon,  gardener  to  Sir  F.  Adair.  Flixton.  Orchids  were 
well  shown  by  such  keen  local  growers  as  H.  Rider 
Haggard,  Esq.,  Miss  Violet  Fellowes  and  Lord  de  Ramsey. 
Pot  plants  also  made  a  bold  array.  Special  mention  must 
be  given  to  the  plants  of  the  pink  and  the  Turnford  Hall 
varieties  of  Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine  staged  by  Mr.  H. 
Goude,  gardener  to  Edmund  Reeve,  Eaq.,  Catton  Grange. 
For  6-inoh  pot  specimens  they  were  superb  examples  of 
good  culture.  Mr.  Combe,  gardener  to  Lord  de  Ramsey, 
showed  to  the  best  advantage  how  the  new  winter- 
flowering  type  Ideal  figures  as  a  decorative  subject. 

The  Blackfriars  Hall  was  occupied  by  the  fruits  and 
vegetables,  and  here  there  was  a  bountiful  display.  Mr. 
H.  Goude  won  two  first  prizes  for  Alicante  Grapes  with 
BDlendidlyflniahed  hunches.  Mr.W.  Allan  had  far  and  away 
the  best  white  Grapes  with  Muscat  of  Alexandria.  Mr.  G. 
Davison,  Westwick,  statted  some  of  his  marvellous  Pears, 
winning  all  along  the  line.  He  also  won  many  prizes  in 
the  Apple  classes.  The  Apples  were  a  show  in  themselves, 
occupying  a  run  of  table  nearly  100  feet  long,  three  dishes 
deep,  the  colour,  considering  the  sunless  season,  being 
very  flue.  Brussels  Sprouts,  Leeks,  Celery,  Tomatoes, 
Carrots  and,  in  fact,  every  vegetable  in  season  were  well 
staeed. 

The  trade  displaved  several  interesting  exhibits.  Messrs. 
Daniel  Brothers,  Riyal  Arcade,  Norwich,  staged  a  fine 
collection  of  Anples,  every  one  of  which  was  grown  in 
their  owu  nursery,  also  plants  and  trees  ready  for  planting. 

Hobbies,  Limited,  Dereham,  had  a  bank  of  single 
decorative  Chrysanthemums,  and  also  Roses  from  their 
renowned  Rose-fields  at  Dereham. 

Mr.  R.  Notcutt  staged  fruit  and  vegetables  la  a  credit- 
able way. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  had  a  stand,  with 
which  they  were  ahie  to  demonstrate  by  the  exhibits  the 
high  quality  of  their  seeds. 


CHESTER  PAXTON  SHOW. 
The  twenty-first  annual  show  of  fruit  and  Chrysanthe- 
mums, under  the  auspices  of  the  Chester  Paxton  Society, 
was  held  in  Chester  Town  Hall  on  November  19  and  20. 
For  the  champion  challenge  cup  for  groups  Major 
MacGillycuddy  proved  to  be  the  victor,  and  his  head- 
gardener  (Mr.  Stubhs)  was  highly  congratulated  on  his 
achievement.  Dr.  Lawrence  was  awarded  the  second 
prize,  while  third  honours  were  secured  by  Mrs.  Arthur 
Potts,  Hoole  Hall  (per  Mr.  Amos  Walker),  who  entered  the 
competition  for  the  first  time  with  a  very  creditable 
exhibit.  The  other  section  of  grouos,  which  were  for 
representatives  of  naturally  grown  Chrysanthtmams,  to 
include  the  Anemone  and  Pompon  varieties,  were  also 
extremely  effective,  and  here  keen  rivalry  was  shown 
between  the  president  of  the  society  (Mr.  T.  Gibbons 
Frost),  p«r  Mr.  T.  Gilbert,  his  gardener,  and  Major  Mac- 
Gillycuddy. The  president  eventually  proved  to  be  the 
winner  of  the  challenge  silver  salver. 

In  the  section  for  cut  blooms  and  single  varieties  the 
principal  prizewinners  were  Mr.  E.  Peter  Jones,  Dr. 
Lawrence,  Sir  Gilbert  Greenall,  Sir  W.  B.  Forwood,  J.  B. 
Glegg,  H.  Dewhurst,  E.  Ellis,  Mrs.  A.  Potts  and  Mrs. 
Pitcaim  Campbell. 

Another  pleasing  aspect  of  the  educational  work  of  the 
society  was  seen  in  the  entries  for  bottled  fruits,  the 
exhibits  this  year  being  more  than  double  those  of  any 
previous  years.  The  chief  prize  for  the  best  twelve  bottles 
was  awarded  to  Mr.  Thomas  Colley,  while  Mrs.  E.  Bates 
of  the  Talbot  Hotel,  Chester,  was  a  very  creditable 
second  prize  winner.  The  prize  for  the  best  six  bottles 
was  secured  liy  the  son  of  one  of  the  veteran  exhibitors  in 
this  class,  Mr.  T.  A.  Weaver  of  Christleton,  who  was 
losely  followed  by  Mrs.  T.  L.  Wood  of  Handbridge. 


This  year  in  the  hardy  fruit  classes  Mr.  F  B.  Summers 
(formerly  of  Bache  Hall)  offered  a  silver  challenge  cup  for 
the  best  twenty-four  dishes  of  Apples  and  Pears,  and  this 
trophy  was  gained  by  Mr.  Philip  York,  Erddlgg  Hall, 
Wrexham,  who  made  an  excellent  display.  Other  success- 
ful competitors  were  the  Rev.  Canon  Garnett  of  Christie- 
ton  ;  Mrs.  Pitcairn  Campbell  of  Christleton  (per  Mr.  John 
Weaver,  head-gardener) ;  Mr.  G.  B.  Baker,  Wilbraham  ; 
and  Mr.  B.  C.  Roberts,  Oakfield. 

The  leading  feature  in  the  fruit  classes,  not  for  compe- 
tition, was  a  display  of  Apples  staged  by  the  Duke  of 
Westminster  (per  Mr.  N.  F.  Barnes,  head-gardener),  which 
quite  upheld  the  reputation  of  Eaton.  In  the  trade 
exhibits  Messrs.  Dicksons,  Limited,  Messrs.  Clibrans 
(Altrinchami,  and  Messrs.  M'Hattie  and  Co.  and  Mr.  F.  W. 
Dutton  (both  of  Chester)  made  excellent  displays  of 
Chrysanthemum  blooms.  The  British  Columbian  Govern- 
ment staged  a  most  effective  lot  of  Apples  grown  in  that 
country. 


CROYDON  AND  DISTRICT  HORTICLTLTURAL 
SOCIETY. 
A  NOTED  grower— Mr.  Gibbs  Box,  Lindfield— gave  a  most 
instructive  lecture  on  the  cultivation  of  Sweet  Peas  before 
this  society  recently,  and  in  dealing  with  his  subject  he 
tried,  as  far  as  possible,  to  Impart  to  his  audience  all  the 
valuable  hints  he  had  gained  by  close  experience  since 
taking  up  their  culture.  Like  a  great  many  of  our  flowers, 
they  should  have  a  good  position  in  the  garden,  open  to 
plenty  of  air,  but  sheltered  from  strong  winds.  The  soil 
should  be  deeply  trenched  and  the  subsoil  well  broken  up, 
at  the  same  time  Incorporating  a  good  supply  of  partly 
rotted  stable  manure.  A  liberal  dressing  of  bone-meal 
may  be  placed  on  this,  and  the  trench  left  rough  for 
winter  rains  and  frosts  to  well  pulverise.  In  the  beginning 
of  Mirch  level  down  the  surface  soil  and  add  a  dusting  of 
superphosphate,  leaving  the  trench  slightly  hollowed  out, 
so  that  when  the  dry  weather  sets  In  and  water  has  to  be 
given  it  all  goes  to  feeding  the  plants  instead  of  running 
away  at  the  sides  of  the  rows. 

For  early  fiowering  about  the  end  of  June  seeds  must  be 
sown  in  October,  about  the  first  week.  A  good  compost 
should  be  made  and  good  drainage  put  into  the  bottoms 
of  4i-inch  pots.  Sow  five  or  six  seeds  in  each  pot  and 
leave  outside  till  severe  weather  sets  in.  When  it 
does  the  pots  should  be  stood  in  a  cold  frame,  leaving 
plenty  of  air  on.  The  lecturer  has  found  they  will  bear 
as  much  as  lr>°  of  frost,  that  Is  it  they  have  been  kept 
properly  In  the  earlier  stages.  Coddling  is  harmful  to 
them.  About  the  middle  or  end  of  March  they  may  be 
planted  out  In  the  rows  or  clumps,  but  do  not  break  up 
the  soil  In  the  pots.  Space  between  each  potful  must  be 
quite  18  Inches ;  more  if  plenty  of  ground  Is  available. 
Short  sticks  should  be  put  to  the  sides  of  the  rows,  and  a 
dusting  of  Itme  will  prevent  the  attacks  from  slugs.  They 
should  soon  commence  to  go  away  freely,  and  longer  sticks, 
quite  10  feet  high,  should  be  put  to  them,  always  pointing 
the  tops  of  the  sticks  outwardlv.  If  the  rows  are  long  It 
will  b«  necessary  to  stake  them  a?  well,  running  stout 
string  from  stake  to  stake.  The  advantage  of  this  will  be 
found  when  late  strong  winds  arise.  By  the  beginning  of 
June,  If  the  weather  is  dry,  watering  must  be  commenced, 
always  using  water  that  has  been  exposed  to  the  air  for  at 
least  twenty-four  hours.  Following  clear  wa^.er,  a  little 
liquid  stimulant  may  be  given  at  Intervals  of  ten  days. 
This  liquid  manure  may  be  made  from  the  stable  manure 
or  artificials.  Sulphate  of  ammonia,  about  loz.  to  three 
gallons  of  water,  will  be  found  an  excellent  stimulant, 
and  this  should  be  varied  with  other  compound  chemical 
fertilisers. 

Insect  pests  phould  be  watched  fi''*,  as  yreen  fly  Is  a 
serious  depredation  to  this  flower,  and  it  is  better  to  prevent 
thin  attempt  to  cure  afterwards.  Syringing  witli  extract 
■  if  quassia  is  a  good  preventive  measure.  Tha  plants 
are  ^^reatly  subject  to  funsoid  pests  also,  and  the  lecturer 
found  a  solution  made  with  Bordeaux  mixtnr«  and  syringed 
oi  the  plants  from  May  onwards  will  keep  this  in  check. 
Tlie  dreaded  streak  disease,  which  has  been  so  rampant 
this  year,  Is  another  enemy  to  watch  for,  and  an  early 
application  of  the  foregoin,-;  mixture  will  help  to  keep  tliia 
down. 

For  later  blooms  seed  should  be  sown  in  February  in 
3-lnch  pots  and  aftarwards  removed  to  HowerinK  quarters. 
March  is  quite  early  enough  for  outside  sowioy,'.  Some 
varieties  have  very  hard-case  seeds,  and  to  ensure  a  quick 
;4ernunatIon  they  should  be  soaked  for  a  few  hours  in 
water  (about  75°)  until  tliey  can  be  seen  to  swell,  or  chip- 
pin-  the  seed  on  the  clear  side  will  help  a  favourable 
germination. 


READING  AND  DISTRICT  GARDENERS'  ASSOCIA- 
TION'S EXHIBITION. 
As  a  meani  of  celebrating  the  coming-of-age  of  the 
Reading  and  District  Gardeners'  Mutual  Improvement 
Association,  a  non-competitive  hortlcnltxiral  exhibition 
was  recently  held  in  the  Small  Town  Hall.  The  exhibi- 
tion served  a  triple  purpose,  for  it  also  took  the  place  of 
the  usual  Chrvsanthemum  show,  and  will  benefit  thR 
Gardeners' Royal  Benevolent  Institution  and  the  Gardeners" 
Royal  Orphan  Fund.  The  society  was  founded  on 
December  (i,  isss,  the  object  being  to  advance  the  science 
and  practice  of  horticulture. 

The  committee  had  every  reason  to  be  satisfied  with  the 
response  made  by  members  to  their  appeal  for  help  in 
furnishing  the  show.  The  exhlVtits  were  numerous  and 
the  quality  exceedingly  good.  The  hall  was  a  scene  Of 
beauty,  for  the  exhibits  were  arranged  with  much  taste. 
On  the  platform  were  three  large  groups  of  splendid 
blooms.  The  centre  one  was  sent  by  Mr.  S.  B.  Joel  of 
Maiden  Erlelgh  (gardener,  Mr.  F.  Johnson),  and  comprised 


very  fine  Chrysanthemums  with  Crotons,  Palms  and 
Dracrenas,  edged  with  Maiden-hair  Ferns.  On  either  side 
were  seedling  Chrysanthemums.  One  of  the  two  groups 
was  from  the  gardens  of  Mr.  Leonard  G.  Sutton  (gardener, 
Mr.  F.  Townsend),  and  the  other  was  sent  by  Messrs. 
Sutton  and  Sons. 

In  front  of  the  platform  Mrs.  Noble  of  Park  Place, 
Henley  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  J.  Powell),  was  represented  by  a 
group  of  fruit.  Including  home-grown  Citrons,  Mandarin 
Oran<:'es  and  Chinese  Date  Plums.  Alongside  this  and 
occupying  the  centre  of  the  table  was  a  lyre  composed  of 
Bougalnvillea  and  Cypripediums.  There  were  also  some 
very  interestiny:  boxes  of  retarded  Potatoes,  showing 
the  offsets  of  youns  Potatoes  from  the  old  tul>ers  and 
illustrating  the  method  liy  which  new  Potatoes  may  be 
grown  through  the  winter  months.  Some  beautiful  and 
well-urown  obconica  and  sinensis  Primulas  were  sent  by 
Mr.  Rucus  Isaacs,  K.C.,  M.P.  (gardener,  Mr.  W.  Exler), 
and  Mr.  Leonard  Sutton.  Mr.  R.  Erskine  of  Blnfield  (gar- 
dener, Mr.  C.  Earl)  also  sent  some  good  seedling  Chryaan- 
themums.  Considering  the  time  of  year  Zonal  Pelargoniums 
made  a  spleniid  show,  the  most  notalde  exhiliits  being 
those  of  Mr.  W.  Howard  Palmer,  Heathlands,  Wokittgham 
(gardener,  Mr.  W.  E.  Moles),  Captain  D.  M.  Miller,  Bia.ud- 
ford  Lo-lga.  Whiteknlglits  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  Reeves),  and 
Mr.  G.  Bird,  Shrublands,  Eirley  (gardener,  Mr.  A.  Abra- 
hams). The  Gloire  de  Lorraine  Begonias  were  ver>-  charm- 
ing. Colonel  W  Thornton  of  Maidenhatch,  Pangbourne 
(gardener,  Mr.  W.  Clarke),  exhibited  some  well-grown 
plants,  together  with  Crotons  and  Maiden-hair  Kern.  Tlie 
tlbrous-rooted  Begonia  formed  part  of  the  exhibit  of  Mr. 
J.  Okey  Taylor  of  Cravenhurst,  Reading  (gardener,  Mr.  T. 
Brown).  A  great  feature  of  the  show  was  the  display  made 
by  Mr.  G.  Stanton  of  Upper  Culham,  Henley,  at  the 
balcony  end  of  the  hall.  It  included,  under  the  title  of 
"  Winter  Reminders  of  Summer  Beauties,"  a  collection  of 
dried  specimens  of  everlasting  and  other  fiowers,  wild  and 
cultivated,  the  variety  and  effect  being  quite  striking. 

The  Fruit  and  Vegetables. 

Collections  of  Apples  were  shown  by  Mr.  G.  W.  Layley, 
Beenham ;  Mr.  Martin  John  Sutton  of  Holme  Park 
(gardener,  Mr.  R.  Doe) ;  Mr.  A.  F.  Walter,  Bear  Wood 
(gardener,  Mr.  W.  Barnes) ;  and,  of  course,  by  the  presi- 
dent, Mr.  F.  B.  Parfitt.  All  were  very  finely  grown.  Mr. 
Parfltt's  were  practically  all  pot-grown  fruit,  and  included 
King  Acre  Pippin  and  an  exceptionally  good  Charles  Robs. 
Both  are  comparatively  new  varieties.  Mr.  F.  W.  Mac- 
donald  (the  association's  treasurer)  had  a  decided  novelty 
In  the  shape  of  the  fruit  of  the  Cydonia  japonica.  Mrs. 
Collins,  Stoneham  House,  Tilehurst  (gardener,  Mr.  H. 
Goodger),  showed  a  co' lection  of  vegetables  ;  Mr.  G.  Hatch 
of  The  Gardens,  Cavenham  Park,  Mildenhall,  a  basket  of 
very  floe  Onions ;  Mr.  F.  Lowenadler  of  Badgemore, 
Henley  (gardener,  Mr.  T.  Hatton),  a  collection  of  fruit ; 
the  Duke  of  Wellington,  a  collection  ot  fruit.  Including 
some  exceedingly  well-grown  Grapes,  for  which  Mr.  A.  G. 
NichoUs,  his  Grace's  gardener,  has  so  high  a  reputation  ; 
Mr.  W.  Pole  Routh  of  Oakfield  (gardener,  Mr.  H.  House), 
Apples  :  Sir  William  Farrer,  Sandhurst  Lodge,  Wellington 
College,  a  collection  of  fruit  and  another  of  vegetables  ; 
Mr.  Drew  of  the  Department  of  Horticulture,  University 
College,  a  collection  of  vegetables  and  fruit ;  and  Miss 
Cripps,  Preston,  Kendrick  Road  (gardener,  Mr.  Durrant). 
three  dishes  of  fruit.  The  fruit  exhibits  had  a  background 
of  Begonias  sent  by  Mr.  8.  B.  Joel,  and  vases  of  Chry- 
santhemums sent  by  Mr.  M.  H.  F.  Sutton  (gardener, 
Mr.  H.  C.  Loader). 


ATTTUMN    SHOW    AT    MANCHESTER. 

This  show  was  held  under  the  auspices  of  the  Royal 
Botanical  Society  at  the  White  City  on  November  18,  19 
and  20,  and  was  the  best  that  had  been  held  for  years, 
the  entries  being  more  numerous  and  the  (|uallty  good. 

Chrysanthemums  in  pots  were  certainly  below  the  high 
standard  usually  seen  at  Manchester,  yet  Mr.  J.  Smith, 
gardener  to  James  Brown,  Eaq.,  held  his  accustomed 
position,  winning  In  each  of  the  three  classes,  viz.,  for 
nine  large-flowering,  six  Japanese  and  six  Pompons,  la 
each  case  staging  fair  plants.  For  the  miscellaneous 
group  the  same  exhibitor  had  the  first  and  only  exhibit, 
his  Palms  being  excellent. 

The  cut  bloom  section,  as  usual,  proved  the  best  of  the 
show.  For  twenty-four  Japanese  and  twenty-four  in- 
curved, distinct  varieties,  Mr.  G.  Haigb,  gardener  to  Sir 
W.  H.  Tate,  Bart.,  Woolton,  augmented  his  other  successes 
this  year  by  winning  the  first  prize  with  good,  all-round 
stands,  including  splendid  blooms  of  the  Hon.  Mrs.  Lopes, 
E.  J.  Brooks.  W.  Knox  and  Algernon  Davis.  Mr.  J.  Hunt, 
gardener  to  Pantia  Ralli,  Esq.,  Epsom,  was  a  good  second, 
his  Incurved  being  especially  strong. 

For  thirty-six  Japanese  in  not  less  than  eighteen  varie- 
ties, Mr.  T.  Stevenson,  gardener  to  E.  Mocatta,  Esq., 
Addlestone,  was  well  ahead  with  large,  massive  flowers  of 
extra  good  colour.  Among  the  newer  varieties  In  this 
stand  were  Master  James,  Walter  Jinks,  O.  H.  Broomhead, 
Leslie  Morrison  and  F.  S.  Vallis.  Mr.  J.  Hall,  gardener 
to  Lady  Ashburton,  Romsey,  was  second  ;  and  Mr.  G.  W. 
Drake,  Cardiff,  third .  For  eighteen  blooms  the  Addlestone 
flowers  were  again  to  the  fore,  Mr.  W.  Iggulden, 
Frome,  and  Mr.  J.  Hall  winning  the  other  awards.  For 
twelve  blooms  the  prizemen  were  Messrs.  T.  Stevenson, 
J.  Hall  and  W.  Iggulden. 

For  twenty-four  incurved,  Mr.  G.  W.  Drake  proved  the 
cliampion  with  good  blooms,  Mr.  .F.  Hunt  beiuK  second 
and  Mr.  C.  <!roves,  gardener  to  Sir  Gilbert  (ireenail,  Bart., 
Warrintiton,  third. 

For  twelve  incurved  varieties  the  first  and  second  of  the 
previous  claas  held  their  own,  Mr.  G.  Haigh  completing 
the  Irio. 


f^® — ■- 

:  GARDEN. 


-5^39= 


syi: 


No.  1986.— Vol.  LXXIIL 


December  11,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Winter  Prunins 
OF  Hakdy  Fecit 
Trees  and  Bushes      697 

Notes  op  the  Wkbk 
Forthcoming  events      598 

C  >RKEePONl>GI<OE 

Polygonum  baldschu- 
anicum  not  tiower- 
ing 698 

Hybrid  Streptocarpus    599 

Hybrid  Tea  Rose  La 
France  de  '89. .     . .    699 

Gilia  coronopifolia  . .    599 
Trees  and  Shrubs 

Winter  work  in  the 
shrub  border . .     . .    600 

Cotoneaster  humi- 
fuaa 600 

Fyrus     sinensis 

Simonii 600 

Feuit  Garden 

Fruit  notes 

Flower  Garden 

Daffodil  rertections.. 

Asclepias  Douglasii. . 

New  Chrysanthemum 
J.  B.  Lowe     . .     . . 

Ornithogalum  nar- 
bonense  pyrami- 
dale 


601 


602 


Flower  Garden 
A  border  of  Canter- 
bury Bells      ..     ..    602 
Rose  Garden 
Notes     on    newer 

Roses.— XII 602 

Protecting  Roses  in 
winter     603 

GARDENIHa  FOR  BEQIHNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week        604 

Propagating  Cur- 
rants and  Goose- 
berries      601 

How    to    propagate 
evergreens    from 
cuttings  and  layers    605 
The  Towh  Garden  ..    605 
gaedenib8  of  the  week 
For    the  South    and 

Sonth  Midlands    ..    606 
For  the    North    and 
North  Midlands  ..    C06 

Books     C06 

Ahbwbes    to    Corbe- 
sfordbrtb 
Flower  garden  . .     . .    607 

Greenhouse G07 

Miscellaneous  ..     ..    608 
SOCIETIES        608 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

An  old  favourite  :  Narcissus  Barri  conspicuus    . . 

New  single  Chrysanthemum  J.  B.  Lowe 

Asclepias  Douglasii  in  a  South  Devon  garden 
A  border  of  Canterbury  Bella  in  a  Highgate  garden 
Sprays  of  Ornithogalum  narbonense  pyramidale 
Propagating  Currants  and  Gooseberries 604,  605 


600 
601 
602 
603 


BDITORIALi    NOTICBS. 

Svery  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  The 
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relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
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featuTBi  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  Itindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  oj  their  assistance. 
AXl  cvmmwnicatwns  must  be  written  clearly  <m  one  side 
orUy  0/  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  EDITOR  of  THE 
Oakder,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  articles,  and  notes, 
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As  regards  photographs,  ^/  payment  be  desired,  the 
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Offices:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


THE  WINTER  PRUNING  OF 
HARDY  FRUIT  TREES 
AND    BUSHES. 

FRUIT  trees  grown  in  gardens,  either 
on  walla  or  in  the  open,  need  pruning 
owing  to  the  restrictions  of  space. 
The  majority  of  amateurs  have  a  very 
vague  idea  of  pruning ;  often  it  is 
understood  only  as  cutting  back  all  young  growths 
to  two  or  three  buds.  It  is  an  operation  that 
requires  thought  and  common-sense.  A  know- 
ledge of  the  functions  of  the  leaves,  the  different 
methods  of  fruiting,  whether  from  the  young 
wood  or  from  spurs,  or  a  combination  of  both, 
and  also  an  understanding  of  each  individual 
tree  to  be  pruned,  are  necessary  to  beneficial 
pruning.  While  intelligent  pruning  is  beneficial 
— and  many  trees  are  ruined  by  allowing  them  to 
grow  wild — on  the  other  hand,  much  harm  is 
done  with  the  knife  in  inexperienced  hands. 

The    Primary   Ob.tect 

in  pruning  is  to  concentrate  the  energies  of  the 
tree  into  a  restricted  number  of  branches,  and  to 
allow  only  as  many  branches  as  can  be  reached 
by  sun  and  air.  It  should  be  remembered  that 
the  immediate  result  of  winter  pruning  is  more 
and  stronger  wood  growth,  so  that  the  less  a 
vigorous-growing  tree  is  cut  back  the  better.  If 
space  allows  for  the  shoots  to  be  left  at  full 
length,  the  result  will  probably  be  that  spurs 
with  fruiting  buds  may  be  formed  at  every  joint 
instead  of  wood  growth. 

Three  Kinds  of  Growth 

are  made  in  the  summer  by  fruit  trees,  and  are 
called  leaders,  side  shoots  and  spurs.  The  leaders 
are  those  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  branches  ; 
these  are  used  for  extending  the  tree.  The  side 
shoots  are  the  growths  that  project  from  all  sides 
of  the  branches,  and  spurs  are  the  short,  stubby 
growths  with  a  cluster  of  buds  on  them. 

Young  Trees 

that  are  being  trained  to  a  required  shape  may 
have  the  leaders  shortened  to  an  eye  pointing  in 
the  direction  it  is  wished  the  branch  should  take, 
or  may  be  left  the  full  length.  In  the  latter  case 
the  top  bud  will  grow  straight  out  and  so  con- 
tinue the  branch.  It  is  advisable  not  to  prune 
young  trees  severely ;  they  will  come  into  a 
fruitful  condition  sooner  if  allowed  to  extend 
somewhat  freely. 

Tools  for  Prunins 
should  be  of  good  quality  and  have  keen  edges. 
A  knife  is  preferable  for  most  subjects  ;  but  for 
Gooseberries  and  other  bushes  a  pair  of  secateurs 
may  be  used.  When  removing  thick  branches  use 
a  saw,  and  then  finish  by  smoothing  the  surface 
of  the  wound  with  a  knife.  All  dead  branches 
must  be  cut  close  back  to  the  main  stem,  and 
when  cutting  the  live  wood  cut  close  to  an  eye  ; 
if  a  snag  is  left  above  the  eye  it  sometimes  causes 
the  decay  of  a  branch.  Generally  speaking,  we 
can  divide  fruit  trees  into 


Two  Classes  for  Pruning, 
(1)  those  which  fruit  principally  from  the  wood 
made  the  previous  summer,  and  (2)  those  which 
fruit  from  spurs. 

The  First  Class 
includes  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Black  Currants, 
Raspberries  and  Morello  Cherries.  In  dealing 
with  the  wall  trees,  enough  wood  should  be 
left  to  furnish  the  wall  space  at  about  4  inches 
apart.  The  aim  of  the  pruner  should  be  to  out 
away  as  much  of  the  wood  that  has  borne  fruit 
as  can  be  spared,  and  lay  in  the  young  shoots  of 
the  previous  summer.  Especially  leave  young 
wood  near  the  base  of  the  trees,  and  cut  out  as 
much  old  from  near  the  top  of  the  walls  as  is 
consistent  with  leaving  enough  to  furnish  the 
wall  at  the  distance  named.  In  this  class  much 
of  the  pruning  is  done  in  summer  ;  but  summer 
work  is  not  included  in  the  title  of  this  article. 
Cut  the  old  fruiting  canes  of  Raspberries  level 
with  the  ground,  and  leave  the  young  canes  at  a 
distance  of  6  inches  apart  if  grown  in  rows,  and  six 
canes  in  a  group  if  groups  is  the  method  favoured. 
Black  Currants  and  Gooseberries  fruit  from  both 
the  young  wood  and  the  spurs.  Any  shoots  that 
cross  and  any  hanging  on  the  ground  should  be 
cut  away.  Thin  the  remainder  to  8  inches 
apart.     In 

The  Second  Class 
we  have  Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  Red  and  White 
Currants,  Apricots  and  Sweet  Cherries.  The 
Currants  may  be  pruned  by  cutting  all  the  young 
growths  back  to  withinhalf  an  inch  of  their  base, 
except  the  leaders ;  these,  if  there  is  room  for 
extension,  may  be  left  9  inches  in  length  ;  if  the 
bushes  are  large  enough,  cut  back  to  2  inches. 
The  branches  of  the  bushes  should  be  1  foot 
apart  and  arranged  in  the  shape  of  a  cup,  with 
the  centre  somewhat  open.  Apples  and  Pears  in 
the  open  ground  should  have  the  branches  2  feet 
or  more  apart.  Plums  may  be  6  inches  closer. 
Cut  the  leading  shoots  back  to  6  inches  or 
12  inches,  as  it  is  wished  to  extend  the  tree,  and 
be  careful  to  out  to  an  eye  that  points  away  from 
the  centre  of  the  tree  and  clear  of  the  other 
branches.  Shorten  all  side  shoots  back  to  the 
second  joint.  The  same  rules  apply  to  wall  and 
espalier  trees,  except  that  a  distance  of  1  foot 
between  the  branches  is  sufficient.  Sometimes, 
from  some  cause,  a  branch  becomes  bare  of  fruit- 
ing spurs  for  some  length  ;  this  is  more  frequent 
in  Plums  on  walls.  When  this  oecxirs,  lay  in  the 
best-placed  shoot  alongside  the  old  branch,  let  it 
extend  by  about  12  inches  yearly  till  it  almost 
reaches  the  length  of  the  branch  it  supplants, 
and  then  cut  the  old  one  away. 

There  is  another  form  of  pruning  for  these 
spur-fruiting  trees,  that  is,  the 

Pruning  of  the  Spurs. 
By  shertening  the  side  growths  yearly  the 
spurs  become  much  elongated  and  the  blossom- 
buds  much  multiplied.  With  such  a  quantity  of 
bloom  the  individual  flowers  will  be  weak ; 
better  a  moderate  show  of  fertile  flowers  than 
multitudes  that  are  weak,  if  not  quite  sterile. 
Besides  the  long  spurs  being  unsightly,  in  the 
case  of  wall  trees  they  lose  much  of  the  benefit 
to  be  derived  from  the  heat  and  shelter  of  the 
wall.     Cut  back  these  spurs  to  the  buds  nearest 


r.d8 


THE    GARDEN. 


[December  11,  190?. 


the  branch,  also  thin  the  buds  to  two  or  three. 
An  article  on  winter  pruning  would  be  incomplete 
without  the  inclusion  of 

ROOT-PRUNINr,, 

because  there  are  oases  where  it  is  the  only 
pruning  that  will  bring  the  tree  into  a  fruitful 
condition.  When  a  tree  has  not  borne  fruit  for 
a  number  of  years,  and  the  growths  towards  the 
top  of  the  tree  are  strong  while  those  lower  are 
weak,  brauch-pruning  is  useless ;  it  only  increases 
the  evil — the  roots  must  be  checked.  If  the  tree 
could  be  extended  freely,  the  trouble  would  in 
many  eases  right  itself.  There  have  been  cases 
of  trees  on  low  walls  being  unfruitful  while 
severely  restricted,  but  when  the  walls  were 
heightened  and  the  leading  shoots  left  full 
length  the  fruitfulness  was  all  that  could  be 
wished  for.  Root-pruning  is  laborious  work,  but 
in  some  cases  it  amply  repays  the  labour  ;  on  the 
other  hand,  enthusiasm  sometimes  leads  amateurs 
to  root-prune  when  unnecessary.  If  the  blossom 
of  a  fruit  tree  is  destroyed  in  the  spring  by 
adverse  weather,  the  growth  of  wood  is  certain 
to  be  more  prolific,  there  being  no  fruit  to  tax 
the  energies  of  the  tree.  If  this  is  the  first  year 
the  tree  has  failed  to  fruit,  and  it  now  has 
blossom-buds  on  it,  do  not  prune  the  roots ;  a 
crop  next  year  will  restore  the  balance  and 
check  the  exuberance  of  the  wood  growth. 

Young  trees  are  the  more  likely  to  need  root- 
pruning  and  any  vigorous  trees  which  are 
severely  restricted  as  to  space.  Trees  planted 
over  an  unsuitable  clayey  subsoil  are  also  more 
likely  to  need  this  attention  than  those  on  a 
gravelly  subsoil  ;  the  roots  strike  down  in  the 
clay,  they  grow  strongly,  but  are  deficient  in 
those  small  fibres  that  tend  to  produce  fruit-buds 
in  a  tree.  If  these  long  roots  are  shortened  and 
laid  in  nearer  the  surface  in  a  horizontal  direc- 
tion, the  result  will  be  less  wood  growth  and  an 
increased  formation  of  fruit-buds. 

Young  trees  may  be  completely  lifted,  the 
strong  roots  shortened  and  the  soil  made  firm 
when  replanting.  In  dealing  with  larger  trees, 
open  a  trench  about  5  feet  from  the  stem  to  a 
depth  of  .3  feet ;  then  work  out  the  soil  towards 
the  tree  with  a  fork,  getting  well  under  the  tree 
so  as  to  sever  any  straight  descending  roots.  Do 
not  leave  the  roots  exposed  longer  than  is  neces- 
sary ;  cover  with  mats  till  ready  for  filling  in. 
Preserve  all  the  short  fibrous  roots  and  cut  back 
the  strong  ones.  Let  the  cut  be  a  slanting  one, 
slanting  from  the  under  side  of  the  root  and 
cutting  outwards  from  the  tree.  In  the  case  of 
very  large  trees  and  any  trees  of  Cherries  or 
Apricots,  it  is  better  to  extend  the  operations 
over  two  seasons,  as  the  check  would  be  too 
great.  Prune  one  side  of  the  tree  one  season, 
and  complete  the  operation  the  following 
winter.  William  ft.  Wadge. 

Viceregal  Oardens,  Dublin. 


NOTES    OF    THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING    EVENTS. 

December  13. — United  Horticultural  Benefit 
and  Provident  Society's  Committee  Meeting. 
National  Chrysanthemum  Society's  Executive 
and  Floral  Committee  Meeting,  at  Essex  Hall, 
Strand. 


Jubilee  Flowep  Show,  Haarlem, 

1810. — We  learn  that  this  show  will  be  con- 
tinued till  May  29,  llllO.  The  late  Tulips  and 
the  many  other  May -flowering  bulbous  plants, 
which  will  be  one  of  the  special  features  of  the 
show,  will  not  be  in  full  glory  before  the  second 
part  of  May,  and  consequently  the  continuation 
uE  the  show  till  the  end  of  May  seems  necessary. 
Moreover,  this  will  enable  the  visitors  of  the 
Urussels  International  Exhibition,  and  especially 
the  members  of  the  Botanical  and  Colonial 
Agiicultural  Congresses,  to  visit  Haarlem  and 
its  Jubilee  Flower  Show,   for  which  they  will 


receive  special  invitations.  We  have  already 
mentioned  that  three  special  temporary  shows 
will  be  held.  A  fourth  exhibition  of  this  kind  is 
now  fixed  for  May  20  to  22, 1910,  when  the  Dutch 
Horticultural  and  Botanic  Society  will  hold  its 
usual  spring  flower  show  in  the  excellent 
buildings  of  the  Haarlem  .Jubilee  Show. 

MP.  F;  W^.  Moore,  V.M  H.-It  is  a 
pleasure  to  know  that  the  degree  of  Master  of 
Arts  has  been  conferred  on  Mr.  F.  W.  Moore, 
the  curator  of  the  Glasnevin  Botanic  Gardens,  by 
the  University  of  Dublin.  Mr.  Moore  is  not 
only  a  botanist  of  distinction,  but  a  lover  of 
garden  plants  in  general.  The  gardens  which  he 
superintends  with  such  ability  are  among  the 
most  beautiful  and  interesting  in  the  world. 

Colonial -grown  fpult  and 
Engrllsh  bottled  tPUlt.— The  exhibition 
of  the  above  fruits,  arranged  by  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  and  held  in  the  society's 
hall,  was  opened  by  Her  Royal  Highness  the 
Princess  Louise  and  His  Grace  the  Duke  of 
Argyll,  K.T,,  G.C.M.G.,  G.C.V.O.,  on  the 
1st  inst.  Her  Royal  Highness  and  His  Grace 
were  received  by  the  president  (Sir  Trevor 
Lawrence,  Bart.,  K.C.V.O. ,  V.M.H. ),  the  council 
and  secretary  of  the  society.  Lord  Strathcona, 
K.C.M.G.,  and  other  Agents-General  and  repre- 
sentatives of  the  Colonies  concerned.  The 
exhibition  was  an  interesting  one  in  several 
respects,  and  was  on  a  larger  scale  than  previous 
shows  of  its  kind.  Generally  speaking,  the 
Colonial  exhibits  were  of  the  usual  character, 
and  we  do  not  propose  to  go  into  details  of  these. 
The  Apples,  which  formed  the  bulk  of  the  fruits, 
were,  as  usual,  splendidly  graded  and  of  very 
rich  colour ;  but  we  noticed  that  some  soft- 
fleshed  varieties  were  badly  bruised.  Two  of 
our  leading  home  growers,  viz.,  Messrs.  J. 
Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  of  Chelsea,  and 
Messrs.  (J.  Bunyard  and  Co.,  staged  excellent 
groups  of  English-grown  fruit,  which  compared 
favourably  in  every  respect  with  that  from  the 
Colonies  except  in  colour,  which,  of  course,  is 
due  to  climatic  conditions.  A  feature  of  the 
show  which  appealed  to  us  most  was  the  English- 
grown  bottled  fruit.  A  decade  or  so  ago  the 
bottling  of  fruit  was  but  little  understood  'n 
this  country,  and  even  last  year  the  exhibits  at 
a  similar  show  were  of  a  meagre  character  ;  but 
this  year  they  were  shown  in  abundance,  and 
proved  that  knowledge  respecting  their  prepara- 
tion is  being  gradually  spread  among  growers. 
This  is  as  it  should  be,  and  we  think  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  is  doing  excellent  work  in 
arranging  these  exhibitions  of  bottled  fruits. 
The  demonstrations  by  Miss  E.  M.  Bradley  were 
also  of  a  most  instructive  character,  and  should 
do  much  to  forward  this  work.  Every  year 
there  is  a  great  deal  of  fruit  wasted  in  this 
country  owing  to  a  glut  at  a  certain  period,  and 
if  this  can  be  bottled  and  thus  preserved  for  use 
when  fresh  fruits  cannot  be  obtained,  nothing 
but  benefit  can  be  the  result.  We  were  pleased 
to  note  that  various  kinds  of  apparatus  for  this 
work  were  being  shown,  a  fact  which  proves  that 
our  manufacturers  are  alive  to  the  demand  for 
these  goods. 

Ireslne  Herbstii  In  Fiji.— In  a  very 

interesting  and  exhaustive  paper  communicated 
to  the  Linnean  Society  by  Miss  L.  S.  Gibbs,  and 
recently  published  in  the  Journal  of  the  society 
under  the  title  of  "  A  Contribution  to  the 
Montane  Flora  of  Fiji,"  is  a  list  of  plants  col- 
lected in  August,  September  and  October,  1907, 
from  an  elevation  of  2,700  feet  at  Nadarivatu  in 
the  island  of  Viti  Levu,  Fiji.  Speaking  of  the 
interest  with  which  the  natives  cultivate  their 
gardens,  the  writer  says;  "The  South  Sea 
Islander  is  a  born  gardener.  All  trees  and  plants 
are  known  by  name  and  their  utility  or  beauty 
appreciated.  Their  villages  are  a  blaze  of  colour 
from  the  many-hucd  foliage  plants  grown  round 
their  houses,  and  magnificent  specimen  trees 
shade  the  levelled  grass  areas  on  which  their 
'  towns'  are  built.  Favourite  species  for  beauty 
or  use  will  be  planted  along  their  roads  or  tracks. 


and  the  wandering  native  will  preserve  seed  for 
future  planting  of  any  particular  species  that 
may  strike  his  fancy. "  As  an  illustration  of  their 
love  for  foliage  plants,  Miss  Gibbs  describes  the 
discovery  of  the  well-known  bedding  plant 
Iresine  Herbstii,  which  is  a  native  of  Brazil  and 
first  flowered  in  this  country  at  the  Kew 
Nursery,  Richmond,  by  the  late  Mr.  Herbst  in 
1S64.  She  says :  "  This  beautiful  plant  has 
taken  possession  of  many  of  the  broad  telephone 
cuttings  through  the  forest  which  intersect  the 
Luva  road  as  it  winds  up  the  spurs  of  Mount 
Victoria  between  Yasogo  and  Navai.  It  would 
be  difficult  to  exaggerate  the  magnificent  effect  of 
these  straight  lines  about  5  metres  wide,  one 
dense  mass  of  brilliant  eirmine  foliage,  bordered 
by  the  dark  green  forest.  It  runs  up  through 
the  bordering  trees  and  shrubs  to  a  height  of 
.3  or  4  mi'tres,  and  each  branch  is  terminated  by 
a  delicate  feathery  panicle  of  white  flowers 
which  enhances  the  general  effect.  It  is  of 
recent  introduction,  and  its  extraordinary  rapid 
increase  has  been  noted.  Could  people  only  see 
such  a  plant  growing  naturally  and  unrestricted, 
with  the  added  grace  of  the  flowers,  it  would 
sound  the  death  knell  of  horticultural  traditions, 
which  would  restrict  everything  to  bedding 
out  limits.  " — John  R.  Jackson,  Claremont, 
Lympstone. 

CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the   opiniojis 
expressed  by  correspondents.  J 

Musk  Roses. — Some  of  these  are  very 
useful  for  pillars  and  arches,  and  are  very  hardy. 
Not  all  of  them  possess  the  Musk-like  perfume 
so  strongly  as  Princesse  de  Nassau,  which  is  straw 
yellow  in  colour.  Brunonii  (mosohata)  is  also 
very  sweet  and  can  be  had  in  single  or  double 
form  ;  it  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  white.  There 
are  several  hybrids  of  this,  and  a  few  heps  sown 
at  any  time  now  or  early  in  spring  often  produce 
great  variety.  A  new  white.  Snowstorm,  is  one 
of  the  most  happily  named  of  all  Roses.  The 
flowers  are  semi-double,  pure  white,  in  large 
bunches,  and  continue  throughout  the  season. 
Mme.  d'Arblay  is  one  of  the  earliest  Roses  to 
flower  ;  delicate  flesh  in  colour.  The  Garland  is 
a  very  rampant  grower,  and  produces  fawn- 
coloured  flowers  about  mid-.July  in  an  ordinary 
season.  Rivers's  Musk,  an  old  lavourite,  is  one  of 
the  most  fragrant  pink  and  buff  varieties. — A.  P. 

Qpease-bandlniT    fpult     tpees.  — 

My  attention  has  been  drawn  to  a  note  in  your 
"Answers  to  Correspondents,"  Fruit  Garden 
section,  giving  advice  re  grease  banding.  It  may 
not  have  come  to  your  notice  before,  but  there  is 
very  great  danger  to  the  life  of  fruit  trees 
incurred  by  the  use  of  cart-grease.  This  grease, 
being  mineral,  blisters  the  bark,  both  outer  and 
inner,  destroying  the  cellular  action,  and  has  to 
my  knowledge  been  the  cause  of  the  destruction 
of  some  twelve  year  old  standards.  Not  only  is 
the  above  enough  to  condemn  the  use  of  such  a 
grease,  but  there  is  another  factor  to  be  con- 
sidered, i.e.,  the  quickness  with  which  it  dries. 
It  can  be  readily  understood  that  you  must  have 
the  bands  sticky  for  at  least  five  weeks,  and  in 
some  oases  two  months.  Cart-grease  will  usually 
dry  board-hard  in  a  week,  or  at  most  two  weeks, 
necessitating  a  further  greasing.  The  whole  idea 
of  making  a  special  grease  for  banding  is,  first,  to 
prevent  the  destruction  of  bark,  and,  what  is 
most  important,  to  get  a  compound  that  will 
remain  sticky  under  ordinary  conditions  for  some 
considerable  time. — P.  Clayton.  [We  gladly 
publish  the  above  letter  from  our  correspondent, 
but  at  the  same  time  would  point  out  that  cart- 
grease,  if  used  in  a  proper  way,  will  not  injure 
the  trees.  Its  liability  to  dry  is,  in  our  opinion, 
the  greatest  drawback  to  its  use.— Ed.] 
Polygonum  baldschuanicum  not 

flOWePlng. — I  think  your  correspondents  who 
are  of  opinion  that  there  are  two   varieties  of 


Decbmbkr  11, 1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


599 


Polygonum  baldsohuanioum  are  oorreot.  For 
some  time  back  I  have  been  studying  the  plants 
I  have  seen  in  various  gardens,  and  under  similar 
conditions  some  plants  were  masses  of  bloom, 
while  others  produced  few  flowers  indeed.  In 
other  places  both  forms  were  a  long  time  before 
they  flowered,  but  what  one  may  call  the  flori- 
ferous  one  in  the  end  far  surpassed  the  other. 
The  floriterous  one  is,  in  some  gardens  in  the 
South  of  Scotland,  a  mass  of  bloom  in  its  season  ; 
while  the  other  flowers  very  sparsely.  In  other 
districts  I  have  observed  the  same.  — S.  Arnott, 
Dumfries. 

I  should  like  to  give  my  experience  of 

this.  I  have  had  a  plant  for  six  years  on  a  dead 
tree,  and  while  there  it  did  nothing.  It  was 
moved  to  a  pergola,  where  it  grew  most  vigor- 
ously but  never  flowered.  I  moved  it  to  a  south 
wall,  where  it  has  grown  yards  but  has  never 
bloomed.  How  is  one  to  know  the  difference 
between  a  plant  that  will  flower  and  one  that 
will  not  ?  Surely  the  nurserymen  ought  to  know 
the  difference. — M.  B.,  Penrith. 

Hybrid  Streptoearpus.— I  was  much 
interested  in  the  article  which  appeared  in  The 
Garden  of  November  13  from  Mr.  E.  Beckett 
of  Aldenham  Gardens  dealing  with  these  re- 
markably free-flowering  plants.  I  was  privileged 
to  see  the  collection  at  Aldenham  during  the  past 
summer,  having  formed  one  of  a  party  of  the 
London  Branch  of  the  British  Gardeners'  Asso- 
ciation who  visited  these  famous  gardens.  The 
plants  in  question  filled  a  span-roofed  house, 
and  it  was  noted  that  Mr.  Beckett's  efforts  in 
the  improvement  of  this  family  had  been  re- 
warded in  the  production  of  some  exquisite 
shades  of  colouring.  Mr.  Watson  of  Kew  was 
present  and  was  impressed  with  their  beauty, 
and  suggested  that  they  were  well  worth  photo- 
graphing, and  the  hint  was  promptly  acted  upon 
by  the  writer.  I  may  take  this  opportunity  of 
saying  that  each  and  all  of  our  party  spent  a  very 
pleasant  time  at  Aldenham,  in  spite  of  the 
somewhat  inclement  weather  ;  also  that  we 
were  deeply  impressed  with  the  condition  of  the 
gardens.  It  goes  without  saying  that  they  are 
controlled  by  a  past-master  in  the  art  of  garden- 
ing. We  also  felt  it  an  honour  to  be  escorted 
around  the  grounds  by  the  genial  and  gifted 
owner,  the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs,  who  was  very 
keen  in  pointing  out  objects  of  unusual  interest 
or  rarity. — Walter  H.  Aggett. 

Hybrid  Tea  Rose  La  France  de 
'89.  —  Several  notes  have  appeared  in  The 
Garden  this  autumn  from  correspondents  in 
praise  of  this  grand  Rose.  I  have  a  dozen  plants 
here  under  my  charge,  so  would  like  to  mention 
my  own  opinion.  The  present  year  has  been 
anything  but  a  good  one  for  the  Queen  of  Flowers, 
but  this  old  favourite  of  mine  was  well  in  the 
fighting-line  at  our  local  exhibition.  I  staged  it 
in  every  class  in  which  it  could  be  shown,  in- 
cluding a  class  for  six  of  any  one  variety,  and  I 
was  awarded  first  prize  in  each  instance.  I  also 
gained  the  National  Rose  Society's  silver  medal 
for  the  best  Hybrid  Tea  with  this  variety.  Of 
its  merits  for  exhibition  no  more  need  be  said  ; 
but,  then,  it  is  a  good  garden  Rose,  strong  in 
growth,  with  magnificent  foliage,  and,  judging 
from  the  long  shoots  it  sends  up  each  year,  I  do 
not  hesitate  to  say  it  would  make  a  good  climber  ; 
but  I  have  not  tried  it  as  such.  To  show  that 
this  fine  old  Rose  is  little  known  or  cultivated, 
several  visitors  when  referring  to  it  at  the 
exhibition  spoke  of  it  as  "that  new  Rose  of 
yours,"  and  expressed  surprise  when  I  informed 
them  of  its  age.  I  quite  agree  with  one  of  the 
correspondents  that  its  odd  name  has  much  to  do 
with  its  unpopularity,  and  were  it  possible  for  it 
to  be  re-christened  with  a  more  suitable  name,  it 
would  soon  be  held  in  great  esteem. — George 
Boyd  (gardener  to  S.  F.  Jackson,  Esq.),  Dane- 
hurst,  Epsom. 

Rosa  Serapllini, — Although  this  minia- 
ture Rose  flowered  for  the  first  time  in  this 
country  in  1900,  its  peculiar  beauty  seems  to 
have   been   overlooked   amid  the  wealth  of  so 


many  now  at  the  command  of  the  planter.  There 
is  a  beauty  in  suitability  for  given  purposes,  but 
few  seem  to  have  considered  the  propriety  of 
introducing  Roses  among  the  occupants  of  the 
rockery,  though  one  may  occasionally  see  R. 
alpina  in  such  a  situation.  R.  Seraphini  is  a 
mountain  Rose  in  its  native  habitats  in  Corsica, 
Sardinia  and  Sicily,  being  found  above  1,600  feet 
of  elevation  in  the  Apuan  Alps.  Two  varieties 
of  it  are  also  found  on  the  Maritime  Alps.  It 
flowers  profusely  while  only  12  inches  to  15  inches 
high,  and  the  thorny  stems  are  furnished  with 
numerousshortshoots,  each  terminating  ina  bright 
rose  flower  I J  inches  in  diameter.  A  little  bush  thus 
gets  covered  with  brightly  coloured  miniature 
flowers  that  would  associate  well  with  the  usual 
occupants  of  the  rockery.  The  leaves  are  only 
li  inches  to  2  inches 
long,  and  made  , 
up  of  seven 
ovate  or  roundish 
leaflets.  A  full- 
sized  plant  would 
neither  overcrowd 
its  neighbours  nor 
grow  so  tall  as 
many  things 
planted  on  rock- 
eries even  of  mode- 
rate size.  From  a 
spectacular  point  of 
view,  it  is  far  more 
effective  than  hun- 
dreds of  subjects 
considered  appro- 
priate for  this  par- 
ticular form  of 
gardening.  I  note 
it  is  catalogued  by 
one  firm  of  Rose- 
growers,  and  hope 
it  will  soon  find  its 
way  into  many 
gardens,  where  it 
might  be  grown  as 
an  edging  to  Rose- 
beds  or  planted  on 
the  rockery. — J.  F. 
Gilla  coro- 
nopifolia.— 
This  handsome 
plant  has  proved 
itself  of  more  than 
average  merit  as  a 
decorative  subject 
in  the  autumn 
garden.  The  un- 
favourable condi- 
tions which  have 
generally  charac- 
terised the  past 
season  have  had 
little  or  no  adverse 
influence  upon  this 
plant,  as  on  Novem- 
ber 12  it  was  still 
flowering  pro- 
fusely ;  the  first 
flowers  opened  in 
the     beginning    of 

August,  so  that  the  display  has  now  lasted 
over  three  months.  It  is  an  easy  subject  to 
grow,  being  most  satisfactory  when  treated  as 
a  biennial.  Seed  is  sown  about  mid-July  in  the 
open,  choosing  a  border  lightly  shaded  and 
sowing  in  shallow  drills.  The  seedlings  are  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  seed-beds  till  September,  when 
they  are  potted  up  in  3-inch  pots  and  placed  in 
a  cold  frame  to  winter.  In  March  or  April  they 
are  planted  out  in  their  flowering  quarters, 
choosing  a  warm,  sunny  position  and  allowing 
from  18  inches  to  24  inches  between  the  plants. 
Once  established  and  when  about  9  inches  in 
height,  the  points  of  the  shoots  are  pinched  out 
in  order  to  force  the  plants  to  develop  lateral 
branches.  As  many  as  a  dozen  laterals  will 
replace  the  single  lead,  and  these  assume   the 


same  erect  habit  of  growth.  Pinching  favours 
early  flowering,  as  those  so  treated  com- 
menced flowering  quite  three  weeks  ahead  of 
unpinched  plants,  although  treated  similarly  in 
all  other  respects  ;  it  also  produces  dwarfer  and 
more  compact  plants,  and  owing  to  the  greater 
number  of  stems,  the  effect  when  in  flower  is 
much  more  solid  and  splendid.  Pinched  plants 
require  early  staking,  as  the  lateral  branches  are 
readily  torn  from  the  main  stem  by  winds.  In 
this  district,  Gilia  ooronopifolia  is  of  no  practical 
garden  value  when  treated  as  an  annual  in  the 
open  ;  the  flowers  come  too  late  in  the  season 
and  the  colour  is  not  nearly  so  bright.  It  will 
interest  readers  of  The  Garden  if  they  refer 
to  Vol.  LXXI.,  page  564,  where  Mr.  S.  W. 
Fitzherbert  details  his  experience  with  this  plant 


an  old  favourite  :   NAKCISSUS.  BABEI  CONSPICUUS.     (See  page  601.) 


treated  as  an  annual.  Probably  in  many  favoured 
districts  it  would  succeed  as  such  ;  in  pots  it 
certainly  would  without  question.  Gilia  aggregata 
and  G.  ooronopifolia  both  succeed  in  ordinary 
chalky  soil ;  natural-grown  plants  attain  a  height 
of  rather  more  than  5  feet ;  those  pinched 
average  a  height  of  4  feet.  G.  ooronopifolia 
forms  a  shapely  and  effective  specimen  when 
given  pot  culture ;  the  temperature  of  a  cool 
orchard-house  meets  all  its  requirements,  and 
plants  raised  from  seed  sown  as  already  indi- 
cated come  into  flower  the  beginning  of  July. 
Plants  grown  under  glass  are  very  bright  in 
cslour,  remaining  effective  for  at  least  two 
months,  and  from  these  a  crop  of  seed  is  prac- 
tically certain.  —  Thomas  Smith,  Walmsgate 
Oardens,  Louth. 


600 


THE     GAllDEN. 


[December  11,  1909. 


TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 

WINTER    WORK     IN     THE     SHRUB 
BORDER. 

IN  the  majority  of  gardens  it  is  safe  to  assume 
that  any  planting  or  rearranging  of  deciduous 
shrubs  that  needed  doing  has  by  now  been 
carried  out,  and  where  such  is  the  case, 
other  work  in  the  shrub  border  should  have 
attention  as  early  as  possible.  Generally 
speaking,  the  pruning  of  flowering  shrubs  is  but 
little  understood,  ae  manifested  by  the  numerous 


Although  space  will  not  admit  of  one  going 
into  details  as  regards  the  pruning  of  flowering 
shrubs  here,  there  are  one  or  two  general  rules 
that  may  be  noted,  and  which  will  doubtless  be 
useful  to  some  readers  at  least.  In  the  first  place 
it  cannot,  in  any  case,  be  wrong  to  cut  out  any 
dead  branches  that  may  be  present,  and  these 
should,  if  possible,  be  so  cut  that  live  wood  is 
entered.  When  this  operation  has  been  attended 
to,  we  may,  for  the  purpose  of  pruning,  roughly 
divide  our  flowering  shrubs  into  two  sections, 
viz.,  spring  and  autumn  flowering.  Beyond 
cutting  out  dead  wood  and  doing  any  thinning 


f4  /^  .^ 


NEW  SINGLE  CHEYSANTHEMUM  J.    B.   LOWE.    (Three-'jucirters  natural  size.    See  page  liOS.) 


queries  one  receives  on  the  subject,  and  frequently 
they  are  allowed  to  grow  as  they  please,  with 
the  result  that  they  become  overgrown  masses 
of  vegetation  that  cannot  be  regarded  as  useful 
or  ornamental.  Although  it  is  not  necessary  or 
desirable  to  prune  severely  the  majority  of 
flowering  shrubs,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them 
within  bounds  and  to  so  thin  the  branches  that 
they  receive  the  full  benefit  of  light  and  air. 
Often  when  any  restriction  is  done  it  takes  the 
form  of  a  cutting  back  with  the  shears,  an  opera- 
tion th»t  soon  results  in  a  dense  mass  of  non- 
flowering  growth. 


that  may  be  absolutely  necessary,  the  first-named 
set  should  not  be  pruned  in  autumn,  as  this  would 
I  mean  the  cutting  away  of  many  flowers ;  the 
proper  time  to  prune  these  is  directly  after 
flowering,  and  in  the  case  of  those  which  produce 
their  blossoms  entirely  on  young  wood  it  will  be 
a  good  plan  to  cut  hard  back  each  year  after  the 
available  space  has  been  filled.  Those  that  flower 
in  late  summer  and  autumn  may  be  pruned  now, 
and,  generally  speaking,  it  is  better  to  give  a 
general  thinning  than  to  do  much  cutting  back, 
unless,  of  course,  it  is  desirable  to  restrict 
branches  that  are  growing  out  of  bounds.    Avoid 


cutting  hard  back  the  various  members  of  the 
Cytisua  and  •  ienista  families  except  when  young, 
as  old  plants  do  not  usually  break  into  new 
growth  any  too  readily.  Every  cut  should  be 
made  smooth,  and  any  an  inch  or  more  in 
diameter  coated  with  Stockholm  or  ordinary 
coal-tar. 

When  the  work  mentioned  above  has  been 
completed,  the  border  should,  where  possible,  be 
dug  over  and  thus  made  tidy  for  the  coming 
season.  Of  course,  where  bulbs  are  planted 
beneath  the  shrubs,  it  is  impossible  to  do  more 
than  clean  ofi'  the  weeds,  lightly  prick  over  the 
surface  with  a  fork  and  throw  some  clean  soil 
over  to  make  up  for  any  that  may  have  been 
removed  with  the  weeds.  In  all  shrub  borders 
and  beds,  however,  it  is  usually  possible  to  find 
vacant  spots,  and  where  a  general  digging 
between  the  shrubs  cannot  be  given,  deep  holes 
may  be  taken  out  in  these  vacant  places,  and 
weeds,  leaves  and  other  rubbish  be  buried 
therein.  This  will  save  a  vast  amount  of  work 
that  would  otherwise  be  entailed  in  carting  such 
rubbish  away,  and  the  cultivator  has  the  satis- 
faction of  knowing  that  he  is  returning  to  the 
soil,  in  the  leaves,  some,  at  least,  of  the  nourish- 
ment that  has  been  taken  from  it  by  the  shrubs. 

The  question  of  manuring  flowering  shrubs  is 
a  moot  one,  but,  generally  speaking,  it  is  better 
to  under  rather  than  over  do  this.  Where  a 
shrub  has  been  in  poor  health  for  some  time  and 
has  failed  to  make  satisfactory  new  growth,  it  is 
a  good  plan,  before  digging  the  border,  to  remove 
a  tew  inches  of  soil  from  its  surface  roots  and 
replace  it  with  well-rotted  manure,  just  covering 
the  latter  with  a  thin  layer  of  soil.  H. 


COTONEASTER  HUMIFUSA. 
This  is  a  peculiar  species  with  long,  thin, 
prostrate  branches,  quite  different  from  any  other 
known  kind.  It  has  been  introduced  from  China 
within  the  last  few  years,  and  is  now  in  cultiva- 
tion in  several  gardens.  Growth  is  rapid,  and 
specimens  three  or  four  years  old  may  be  several 
feet  across.  It  rises,  in  a  young  state,  barely  an 
inch  above  the  ground,  the  wiry  branches  growing 
out  in  all  directions  and  forming  roots  in  many 
places.  The  leaves  are  ovate  and  up  to  an  inch 
in  length,  deep  green  on  the  upper  surface  and 
paler  beneath.  The  flowers  are  white,  borne 
during  May  and  June,  and  are  succeeded  by 
small  red  fruits,  which  ripen  during  August  and 
September.  It  is  essentially  a  plant  for  the  rook 
garden,  where  its  branches  can  hang  over  a  large 
piece  of  rock,  or  it  would  thrive  well  if  planted 
round  the  overturned  butt  of  a  tree.  For  the 
open  border  it  is  too  prostrate  in  habit  to  make 
any  show,  and  would  be  likely  to  become  crowded 
out  by  coarser-growing  plants.  Anyone  who 
possesses  a  single  plant  may  soon  raise  a  stock, 
as  cuttings  Inserted  in  sandy  soil  in  summer 
and  kept  close  for  a  few  weeks  may  be  expected 
to  root  well.  W.  D. 


PYRUS  SINENSIS  SIMONIL. 
The  Sand  Pear  (Pyrus  sinensis)  fulfils  a  some- 
what similar  mission  in  China  and  Japan  to  that 
which  the  common  Pear  (Pyrus  communis)  does 
here,  for  it  has  been  improved  by  cultivation  in 
much  the  same  way,  and  a  number  of  varieties 
are  cultivated  for  their  fruits.  The  type  forms  a 
tree  20  feet  or  more  high,  with  dark  green  leaves 
and  yellowish  green  fruits,  marked  with  brown, 
about  as  large  as  a  medium-sized  Hessel  Pear. 
When  ripe  they  are  sweet  and  juicy,  but  rather 
insipid  and  gritty.  The  variety  Simonii  is  quite 
different  from  the  type  in  appearance,  for  in 
the  first  instance  the  tree  is  of  spreading  growth, 
with  long  main  branches  sparingly  clothed  with 
branchlets,  while  the  fruits  are  quite  different  in 
shape.  In  this  instance,  instead  of  being  the 
ordinary  Pear  shape,  the  fruits  are  larger  at  the 
base,  the  upper  or  calyx  end  being  small  and 
constricted.  They  are  from  IJ  inches  to  2  inches 
in  diameter,  yellowish  green  like  the  type,  and 
covered  with  small  brown  dots.  D. 


December  11,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


601 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN 


R 


FKUIT    NOTES. 

ASPBERRIES.— Those  who  are  ex- 
perienced in  the  culture  of  this 
valuable  fruit  will  have  completed 
all  the  autumn  and  winter  attention 
that  the  plants  demand  long  before 
these  lines  appear  in  print ;  but  the 

novice  may  have   let    things    slide    under    the 

assumption  that  if  other  fruits  are  dealt  with  in 

IJeceraber,  so    also   should   these.      This   plant, 

however,  is  totally  distinct  from  any  other  that 

we  grow  to  such  an  extent,  for  the 

simple  reason  that  it  produces  all 

its  fruits  on  the  new  canes,  and 

the  old  ones  are  worthless  directly 

they  have  yielded  their  burden. 

Thus,  with  a  variety  that  finishes 

in  late  summer,  thecorrect  practice 

is  to  immediately  cut  out  the  old 

canes  from  the  base,  for  as  long  as 

they  remain  they  will  rob  the  new 

ones  of    light  and  food.      With 

autumn-fruiting  plants  the  prin- 
ciple is  identical,  but  the  cutting 

out  is  necessarily  later.     If  any 

old  canes  still  remain,  clear  them 

out  forthwith  and  then  consider 

the  young  ones  ;  if  there  are  more 

than  six  at  a  stool,  all  over  that 

number    should    be    pulled    out. 

These  things  done,  hoe  and  hand- 
weed    until    the     plantation     is 

scrupulously    clean,    prick    over 

very  lightly  with  a  fork — if  the 

tines  are  driven  in  deeply,  it  is 

certain   that   injury  to  the  roots 

will  be  the  result — and  finish  with 

a  dressing  of  equal  parts  of  half- 
decayed  leaves  and  manure,  or  in 

the    absence    of    the   leaves   use 
manure  alone. 

Strawberry  -  beds.  —  These, 
too,  ought  to  have  been  cleansed 
before  this  ;  but  if  the  work  has 
not  been  done,  there  must  not  be 
a  moment's  further  delay,  unless, 
of  course,  the  weather  is  unsuit- 
able for  any  work  on  the  land. 
All  dead  and  decaying  leaves  must 
be  pulled  ofl'  the  plants,  and  some 
of  the  good  ones  may  come  as 
well,  so  as  to  fully  expose  the 
crowns.  Weeds  must  also  be 
absolutely  cleared  either  with  the 
hand  or  the  hoe,  digging  them  into 
the  soil  in  the  middle  of  the  alleys 
if  there  is  aufficient  space.  Then 
point  over  the  entire  surface  and 
spread  on  long  manure  for  the 
winter. 

Cleansing  Bark. — Practically 
all  oiir  fruit  trees  are  liable  to 
get  their  stems  coated  with  lichens 
and  mosses,  and  it  is    most   im- 
portant that  all  this  should  be 
cleared  off.     In  some  districts  the 
task  is  no  light  one  at  the  outset ; 
but    after    the    preliminary  scraping  has  been 
thoroughly  done,   the   annual    scrubbing    with 
caustic    soda  will  keep   everything  in    perfect 
condition.     The  most  useful  form  of  scraper  is 
one    of  triangular  shape,  as  the  point  can  be 
worked  into  the  crannies  of  the  bark  and  the 
forks  of  the  main  branches,  thus  clearing  out 
accumulations    and    doubtless     accounting    for 
many  hundreds  of  eggs.     All  vestiges  of  mossy 
growth  should  be  scraped  away,  and  then  that 
portion  of  the  bark  that  is  thoroughly  hard  must 
be  scrubbed  with  the  caustic  soda  solution  which 
has  been  frequently  recommended  in  the  pages 
of  The  Garden  and  need  not  now  be  repeated. 
On  the  smaller  wood  and  for  those  parts  of  the 
tree  which  are  not  readily  accessible  a  knapsack 


sprayer  should  be  requisitioned,  for  with  its  aid 
all  the  shoots  can  be  coated  with  a  fine  film  of 
the  cleansing  wash  and  the  tree  will  be  most 
substantially  benefited. 

Planting. — Whenever  the  weather  is  favour- 
able let  all  planting  be  pushed  along  at  the 
utmost  speed  consistent  with  sound  work,  so  that 
if  possible  the  entire  operation  shall  be  com- 
pleted before  Christmas.  It  is,  however,  the 
height  of  folly  to  attempt  to  go  on  the  ground 
when  it  is  sodden  with  water,  as  far  more  harm 
than  good  must  inevitably  be  the  result. 

Grease  Bands. — There  is  a  possibility  that 
those  which  were  placed  in  position  towards 
the  end  of  September  and  at  the  beginning  of 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


Some 

w 


ASCLEPIAS  DOUQLASII  IN  A  SODTH   DEVON  GARDEN. 

October  will  be  hardening,  and  when  they  come 
into  that  state  they  are  valueless  for  their 
special  purpose — arresting  the  upward  progress 
of  the  female  winter  moths.  The  grower  should 
make  it  a  rule  to  examine  the  bands  frequently, 
and  directly  it  is  seen  that  one  is  becoming 
ineffectual,  an  additional  supply  of  cart-grease 
or  other  substance  must  be  smeared  on.  It  is  no 
uncommon  thing  to  hear  sticky  bands  denounced 
as  useless,  and  the  reason  is  simply  that  they  are 
often  applied  too  late,  and,  more  frequently 
still,  never  receive  a  second  thought  after  being 
put  [into  position  ;  in  these  circumstances  they 
cannot  do  themselves  justice.  It  properly 
attended  to  they  will  do  a  vast  amount  of 
good.  Fruit-grower. 


DAFFODIL    KEFLECTIONS. 

Some    Good    Old    Medics. 

HEN  the   Editor  sent    me    the 
accompanying    illustration    of 
our  old  friend  Barri  I  had  just 
read  Mr.  Watts's  most  inter- 
esting   and    suggestive    notes 
about    the    modern    Dafibdil. 
Aye  !  aye  !  there  are  modem  Daffodils,  just  as 
there  are  modern  young  ladies  who  can  simper 
and    smile,    but     who     hardly    know    how    to 
thread    a    needle     or     boil     an 
egg.     As  he  says.    Daffodils 
should  be  "  beautiful  and  useful." 
Barri  (which  is  my  familiar  way 
of  speaking  of  Narcissus  Medio- 
Coronatii  Barri  oonspiouus)  is  the 
very    antithesis    of    his    modern 
Daffodil.   It  is  essentially  a  border 
plant.     It  wants  no  thumbing  to 
add  to  its  natural  beauty,  and  if  it 
were  "boiled  out"  it  would  look  so 
woe-begone  and  draggly  that  no 
one  would  know  it,  while  its  stalk 
will  satisfy    even    Mr.     Duncan 
Pearson. 

The  late  Mr.  Bourne  is  fairly 
near  the  mark  when,  on  page  82 
of  his  "Book  of  the  Daffodil,"  he 
says,  "probably  the  most  useful 
of  all  the  Narcissi,  regard  being 
had  to  its  beauty,  good  constitu- 
tion and  rapid  increase. "  Extremes 
meet  in  Daffodils  as  in  other 
things.  Some  of  the  very  best 
are  to  be  found  at  either  end  of 
the  scale  of  the  dealer's  price-list. 
Low  down,  very  low  down,  is  Barri 
eonspicuus ;  but  this  does  not 
detract  from  its  merits — it  only 
enables  us  to  buy  more  for  our 
money. 

Two  other  old  cheap  varieties  of 
a  similar  type  are  Autocrat  and 
Frank  Miles.  The  former  is  a  very 
lovely  yellow  self  v'th  an  almost 
ideal  perianth  and  cup,  and  as  good 
in  the  garden  as  on  the  show- 
table.  Frank  Miles  is  a  paler 
yellow  and  has  long,  twisted 
perianth  segments.  It  is  one  of 
the  very  best  Daffodils  for  cutting. 
Both  these  are  "  beautiful  and 
useful,"  and  del  well  anywhere. 
In  grass  they  are  splendid.  I  am 
not  sure  if  I  do  not  like  them 
better  than  trumpet  varieties  for 
this  purpose.  There  is  a  peculiar 
gracefulness  about  their  carriage 
which  harmonises  so  well  with 
their  carpet  of  green.  A  fourth 
variety  that  I  should  like  to  men- 
tion is  Queen  Bess.  Its  particular 
merit  consists  in  its  being  about 
the  first  Medio  to  flower.  It  has 
a  white  perianth  and  a  yellow 
cup,  and,  accordingly,  is  a 
good  contrast  to  the  three  kinds  mentioned 
above.  Joseph  Jacob. 


.e.?KaK)BBW.SESSl^BM 


ASCLEPIAS  DOUGLASII. 
This  is  a  noble  plant,  but  seldom  met  with  in 
gardens,  yet  its  stately  appearance  undoubtedly 
renders  it  a  valuable  plant  for  the  herbaceous 
border,  it  being  well  worthy  of  culture  for 
the  sake  of  its  foliage  alone.  When  enjoying 
perfect  health  it  will  often  exceed  6  feet  in  height, 
and  its  large  and  handsome  leaves,  on  strong 
plants,  attain  a  length  of  a  foot  and  a  breadth 
of  4^  inches.  A  well-grown  specimen  is  thus  an 
ornamental  object  as  a  foliage  plant.  Its  flowers 
can  scarcely  be  said  to  compare  for  effective- 
ness, with  the  blossoms  of  Asclepias  tuberosa. 


602 


THE     GAKDEN. 


[December  11,  1909. 


but  they  have  a  quiet  charm  of  their  own.  The 
plant  flowers  during  August  and  bears  large, 
rounded  heads  of  small  blossoms,  some  of  the 
flower-clusters  having  a  circumference  of  close  on 
12  inches.  The  corollas,  which  are  less  than 
half  an  inch  across,  are  yellowish  in  colour  and  the 
reflexed  petals  are  of  a  dull  reddish  tint,  the 
rounded  flower-heads  appearing  at  a  little 
distance  to  be  flesh  pink  in  colour.  Somewhere 
about  200  blooms  are  carried  on  a  single  flower- 
head.  The  blossoms  are  sweetly  perfumed,  and 
innumerable  insects,  butterflies,  bees  and  bumble- 
bees settle  on  them,  and  soon  becoming  stupefied 
by  the  nectar,  cling  helplessly  to  the  heads  of 
bloom.  Asclepias  Douglasii  is  a  native  of 
Western  America,  whence  it  was  introduced  in 
184fi,  and  is  perfectly  hardy.  It  is  very  tenacious 
of  life,  and  however  carefully  a  plant  is  lifted, 
shoots  will  spring  up  for  years  afterwards  from 
portions  of  the  roots  that  were  left  behind. 
South  Devon.  Wvndham  Fitzherbert. 

NEW  CHRYSANTHEMUM  J.  B.  LOWE. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  single  varieties 
we  have  ever  seen,  and  as  shown  by  H.  J.  Jones, 
Limited,  Lewisham,  before  the  Royal  Hortioul- 


recogoition  as  many  other  far  less  beautiful 
plants.  Perhaps  that  may  be  on  account  of  its 
beauty  being  somewhat  short-lived  when  com- 
pared with  moat  other  flowers.  Be  that  so  or 
not,  a  good  border  or  mass  of  this  Campanula  in 
flower  is  not  easily  forgotten.  The  four  chief 
colours  are  rose,  violet,  white  and  lilac.  The 
illustration  shows  a  border  of  these  plants  50  feet 
long  by  4  feet  wide  growing  this  summer  at  Ken 
View,  Highgate.  At  the  far  end  a  portion  of  a 
rockery  is  noticeable,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a 
good  specimen  of  Linum  narbonense,  covered 
with  its  pretty  sky  blue  flowers.  The  whole 
view  is  looking  between  the  poles  of  a  Rose 
pergola  that  runs  parallel  with  the  border. 
Highgate.  C.  T. 


THE      ROSE     GARDEN 


-xn. 


NOTES    ON    NEWER    ROSES.- 

Hyerid  Teas. 

( Continued  from  page  5S9. ) 

Yvonne  Vacherot  (Soupert  et  Notting,  1906). 

This   Rose,  while   purely  an  exhibitor's  flower. 


A  BORDER  OF  CANTERBURY   BELLS  IN   A   HIGHGATE  GARDBK. 


tural  Soc'ety  on  the  23rd  ult. ,  was  a  flower  of 
very  high  quality  indeed,  and  fully  deserved  the 
award  of  merit  granted  on  that  occasion.  The 
deep  rich  crimson  solour,  shaded  with  scarlet,  is 
most  pleasing,  and  produces  that  warm  effect  so 
desirable  in  the  dull  autumn  months. 


ORNITHOGALUM  NARBONENSE 
PYRAMIDALE. 
I  AM  a  constant  reader  of  The  Garden.  It  is  a 
surprise  to  me  that  Ornithogalum  narbonense 
pyramidale  is  so  little  grown.  It  is  of  easy 
culture  in  light  soils  if  taken  up  in  July  and  dried 
and  replanted  in  October,  and  increases  rapidly. 
It  does  well  in  water,  takes  most  graceful  shapes, 
and  flowers  to  the  last  buds.  The  photograph, 
taken  by  a  friend,  does  it  poor  justice,  but  I 
thought  you  might  like  to  have  it.  The  dis- 
advantage is  that  the  leaves  become  shabby 
before  the  plant  flowers,  but  that  can  easily  be 
concealed.  Maria  Theresa  Earlb. 

Woodlandx,  CobJiim,  Surrey. 


A  BORDER  OF  CANTERBURY  BELLS. 
The  Canterbury  Bell  is  a  well-known  plant  and 
belongs  to  one  of  the  most  useful  of  plant 
families ;  but  I  question  whether  it  gains  so  much 


appeals  to  all  those  who  prefer  beauty  of 
form  to  sub3tance  or  size.  I  overheard  the 
remarks  at  a  local  show  of  one  of  the 
old  school  of  exhibitors  (I  hope  I  am  not 
libelling  anyone  in  so  styling  him,  but  he 
exhibited  his  Roses  in  the  days  when  they 
insisted  on  Roses  being  big  irrespective  of  almost 
anything  else)  when  he  saw  a  pretty  flower  of 
Yvonne  Vacherot  that  was  in  the  front  row  of 
the  winning  thirty-six  :  "  Call  that  a  Rose  !  I 
call  it  a  poor  thing."  Then  he  murmured  some- 
thing about  Paul  Neyron,  "Why,  we  got  'em  as 
big  as  tea  plates  ! "  By  so  much  have  our 
standards  altered — Yvonne  Vacherot  and  Paul 
Neyron  !— neither  Rose  a  typical  example  of 
either  the  old  Hybrid  Perpetual  or  the  new 
Hybrid  Tea ;  but  could  you  have  a  greater 
contrast?  The  form  of  Yvonne  Vacherot  is 
exquisite — that  beautiful  shell-like  guard  petal, 
the  turn  of  the  next  petal  just  leaving  its  place 
to  bring  its  inner  surface  to  the  sun,  the  remain- 
ing petals  so  tightly  grasped  that  the  pressure 
seems  to  have  forced  them  up  to  a  needle  point. 
At  its  best  there  are  not  many  Roses  of  finer 
— in  both  senses  of  the  word — shape.  Its 
colour  is  indistinct  porcelain  white,  suffused  pale 
pink ;  its  size  medium  rather  than  large ;  its 
growth   moderately  vigorous.      Only   the  early 


flowers  come  large  enough  for  exhibition,  which 
rather  points  to  the  fact  that  it  is  likely  to  be 
good  or  at  its  best  on  maidens. 

As  there  are  no  "Z's,"  I  believe  I  have 
reached  the  end  of  the  Hybrid  Teas — from 
Albatross  to  Yvonne  Vacherot.  It  is  a 
varied  gallery,  something  to  suit  all  tastes ; 
and  all  may  pick  and  choose  therein.  Yet 
who  can  believe  that  finality  or  anything 
approaching  it  has  been  reached.  They  are  but 
the  flowers  of  to-day.  Some  of  them  will  still 
be  flourishing  ten  or  twenty  years  hence  ;  but  of 
how  many  will  it  then  be  said  tbe  place  thereof 
knows  them  no  more.  It  is  as  it  should  be — the 
survival  of  the  fittest.  Even  the  less  fit  will 
have  had  its  day ;  and  if  it  has  ceased  to  be, 
may  be  remembered  possibly  as  the  parent  of  a 
nobler  child,  possibly  for  something  even  less 
than  that,  but  still  remembered.  Floreat  regina 
florum. 

Teas. 
One  passes  on  to  the  Teas,  and  here  we  find  a 
class  that  everyone  would  like  to  grow,  if  they 
could  ;  it  is  gradually  improving  in  constitution, 
possibly  owing  to  its  no  longer  being  kept  quite 
pure,  the  crossing  with  the  Hybrid  Tea  that  has 
undoubtedly  taken  place  being  a  help  in  this 
respect.  But  a  severe  winter  will  always,  I  am 
afraid,  play  more  or  less  havoc  with  the  Teas. 
Last  year  they  suffered  badly,  and  if  not  killed 
outright,  as  they  were  in  many  cases,  were  so 
crippled  that  they  have  had  this  year  to  devote 
their  energies  to  wood  production  rather  than  to 
flowers.  Consequently,  this  has  not  been  a  Tea 
year  by  any  means ;  in  fact,  I  do  not  think  I 
should  be  overstating  the  mark  if  I  were  to  say 
there  have  been  no  good  Teas  exhibited  through- 
out the  entire  season.  Mr.  Mawley's  Analysis  is 
not  yet  published,  but  there  must  be  a  terrible 
falling-off  in  the  number  of  blooms,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  quality.  One  or  two  Teas  stood 
out  as  suffering  less  than  their  neighbours,  Mme. 
Jules  Gravereaux  in  particular  ;  but  the  White 
Mamans  and  the  Cochets  of  former  years  were 
conspicuous  by  their  absence — at  any  rate,  in  my 
own  garden  and  the  shows  I  visited.  It  this  is  true 
of  the  class,  how  much  truer  must  it  be  of  the 
newer  varieties  among  them  ';  So  that  I  feel 
bound  to  emphasise  again  what  I  said  when  I 
commenced  these  notes  —  no  Rose  should  be 
judged  on  its  1909  record  ;  truly  a  year  of  North 
Pole  fame.  Good  Teas  are  still  scarce,  and  I  find 
my  notes  only  include  some  fifteen  varieties.  Of 
these  barely  half  can  claim  to  be  exhibition 
Qowers. 

Freiherr  von  Marschall  (P.  Lambert,  1904) 
seems  to  be  the  first  in  alphabetical  order,  lli  has 
been  rather  a  long  time  getting  recognition,  but 
I  think  it  deserves  it,  if  only  for  its  colour.  It 
may  fairly  be  said  to  belong  to  that  select  class 
of  "red"  Teas  that  can  almost  be  numbered  on 
the  fingers  of  one  hand.  It  is  quite  a  good  grower ; 
colour,  dark  carmine  ;  buds  nice  shape,  opening 
out  into  a  large  flower  ;  rather  loose,  imbricated 
form  ;  fragrant.  Messrs.  F.  Cant  and  Co.  had  a 
fine  row  of  it  at  Colchester  that  was  full  of  flower 
when  I  was  there  this  autumn,  and  they 
thought  highly  of  it.  I  have  had  two  plants 
of  it  for  the  last  three  years  and,  without 
producing  anything  striking,  they  have  done 
well. 

Harry  Kirk  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1907). — 
A  gold  medal  Rose  of  the  National  Rose  Society 
of  a  very  striking  colour,  deep  sulphur  yellow, 
passing  to  a  lighter  shade  until  it  becomes  almost 
white  at  the  edge  of  the  petals.  It  is  the  first  Rose 
to  have  a  challenge  cup  offered  for  the  best  stand 
of  nine  blooms  ;  this  was  done  at  the  provincial 
show  of  the  National  Rose  Society  at  Luton,  and 
there  were  some  half-dozen  entries,  the  raisers 
generously  not  exhibiting.  The  blooms  ex- 
hibited, except,  perhaps,  some  flowers  in  the 
winning  stand,  hardly  did  justice  to  the  flower 
or  the  cup.  I  have  seen  ic  very  fine,  and  it  is, 
I  think,  the  best  Rose  of  its  colour,  and  will  make 
a  fine  bedder,  as  it  is  a  good  grower,  quite  first- 
rate. 


December  11,  1909.1 


THE    (>AEDEN. 


603 


Lady  Meriel  Bathunt  (Jefferiea  and  Son,  1908). 
Quite  a  pretty  little  flower,  yellow,  shaded 
pink,  flowering  freely  and  continuously  in  large 
trusses.  Was  awarded  a  card  of  commendation. 
Should  make  a  useful  Rose  for  table  decoration. 

Leila  (Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1908). — A 
beautiful  button-hole  Tea.  It  is  of  very  pure 
colour,  a  bright  clear  apricot  that  does  not  fade  to 
white,  as  so  many  of  these  yellow  Roses  do.  It  is 
a  pure  Tea,  so  the  growth  is  not  vigorous,  but 
planted  closely  together  should  make  a  very 
pretty  bed. 

Lady  Wenloch  (Bernaix,  1905). — This  is  a 
beautiful  bedding  Tea  that  should  be  more  grown. 
It  is  very  free-flowering,  at  its  best  in  the 
autumn,  and  I  can  recommend  it. 

Mme.  Constant  Soupert  (Soupert  et  Notting, 
1906). — This  is  a  real  good  exhibition  Tea  ;  the 
season  has  been  all  against  it,  but  it  is  a  good 
grower.  The  flowers  are  large,  of  good  substance, 
and  I  consider  it  the  finest  yellow  exhibition  Tea 
nowin  commerce.  It  is  already  in  the  first  six  Teas 
for  exhibition.  The  plants  I  had  of 
it,  some  half-dozen,  passed  through 
the  winter,  so  I  think  it  can  be 
considered  hardy  for  a  Tea.  The 
texture  of  the  petal  is,  perhaps, 
not  quite  all  that  could  be  desired, 
and  it  undoubtedly  requires  heat 
to  open  properly,  but  it  is  quite 
indispensable  to  the  exhibitor.  It 
missed  the  gold  medal  of  the 
National  Rose  Society,  but  it  has 
proved  since  that  it  deserved  it. 

Mme.  Pol  Varin-Bemier  (Sou- 
pert  et  Notting,  1907). — Described 
in  the  catalogues  as  melon  yellow. 
There  is  something  rather  out  of 
the  common  about  this  Rose.  I 
have  only  one  plant  of  it,  so  can 
say  little  about  it ;  but  I  think  it 
worth  trying.  It  has  a  delicious 
scent,  and  though  the  flowers  are 
not  large,  Ihey  are  of  good  shape 
and  freely  produced.  Purely  a 
garden  Rose. 

Mrs.  Hubert  Taylor  (Alex.  Dick- 
son and  Sons,  1909). — Awarded  the 
gold  medal  of  the  National  Rose 
Society;  this  is  likely  to  be  a  useful 
exhibition  Tea.  Colour,  pale  shell 
pink,  shading  to  white ;  full  flowers 
reminiscent  of  Mme.  Cusin,  of 
which  it  may  be  a  sport.  It  is  a 
better  grower  than  that  fine  old 
variety ;  at  any  rate,  at  New- 
townards,  where  I  have  seen  it  for 
some  years,  the  raisers,  I  know, 
think  highly  of  it. 

Mrs.    Myles     Kennedy     (Alex. 
Dickson  and  Sons,  1906).— The  past 
season  has  not  suited  this  Rose. 
It  is  a  fine  grower,  but  the  buds 
get  to  a  certain  stage  and  stop, 
with  the  result  that  the  flowers 
that  are  perfect  are  few  and  far  between.     Still, 
it  is  indispensable   to  the  exhibitor,  and  in  a 
more  congenial  season  its  behaviour  will  perhaps 
be  different. 

Mrs.  Sophia  Neate  (Bide,  1908).— This,  too, 
must  wait  for  a  verdict.  So  far  it  has  only 
proved  itself  not  an  exhibition  Rose. 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford  (Alex.  Dickson  and 
Sons,  1908). — I  can  write  with  more  confidence 
with  regard  to  this  Rose,  as  I  have  known  it  for 
a  good  long  period — seven  or  eight  years,  at  any 
rate.  The  colour  is  a  good  white ;  the  flowers 
are  quite  up  to  exhibition  standard  and  it  is 
fragrant.  Vigorous  for  a  Tea,  it  is  one  of  those 
Roses  all  exhibitors  will  have  to  grow,  especially 
the  Tea  men.  The  flowers  have  come  split  rather 
more  than  usual  this  season.  I  mention  this,  as 
those  growing  it  for  the  first  time  might  be  dis- 
appointed, but  I  am  convinced  it  is  a  good  Rose 
and  worthy  of  an  extended  trial. 

Mrs.  Stephen  Treseder  (Treseder,  1903).— Not 
a  new  Rose  by  any  means,  but  one  that  has  got 


rather  overlooked.  It  is  a  sport  from  Anna 
Olivier,  of  a  distinct  pale  lemon  shade  that  makes 
a  beautiful  button-hole.  It  is  quite  free-flowering 
and  should  be  more  grown. 

Nita  Weldon(K\e7i.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1909).— 
I  believe  this  Rose  was  staged  for  the  gold  medal 
at  the  same  time  as  Mrs.  Arthur  Munt.  Nita 
Weldon  secured  the  oo\eted  award  and  Mrs. 
Arthur  Munt  did  not,  and  yet  I  think  the  latter 
will  prove  the  better  Rose  of  the  two.  How  was 
this  ?  Simply,  Nita  Weldon  was  shown  in  better 
form  on  the  day  and  is  a  Tea.  I  have  not  grown 
this  Rose,  but  I  have  strong  recollections  of  some 
very  fine  flowers  of  it  at  Newtownards.  It  is  not, 
I  should  say,  likely  to  figure  often  on  the  exhibi- 
tion bench,  but  it  has  a  charm  of  its  own,  and  its 
fragrance  will  not  allow  it  to  be  ignored. 

Souvenir  oj  Stella  Gray  (Alex,  Dickson  and 
Song,  1907). — This  is  a  very  fine  colour  and  a 
beautiful  button-hole  Tea.  Colour,  deep  orange, 
veined  salmon,  and  other  shades,  a  combination 
not    easily  described,   but    most  attractive.     I 


newer  Teas,  certainly  in  the  first  three.     Those 
growers   who   have  not   got  it  should  certainly 
try  it. 
Purley.  Herbert  E.  Moltnbcx. 


SPRAYS  OF   OBNITHOGALtTM  BARBONENSE  PYBAMIUALE. 

should  like  to  have  a  big  bed  of  it  so  as  to  make 
sure  of  always  having  some  of  its  delightful 
flowers.  It  is  a  medium  grower,  so  the  plants 
can  be  planted  closely. 

W.  R.  Smith  (Smith,  1908).— I  think  very 
highly  of  this  Rose.  The  half-dozen  plants  I 
had  from  Messrs.  Hugh  Dickson  of  Belfast  (who 
are  distributing  this  Rose  in  Europe  for  the 
raisers,  an  American  firm;  so,  Mr.  Editor,  this 
Rose  should  not  have  been  included  in  your  recent 
list  of  British-raised  Roses)  did  remarkably  well 
this  year,  and  I  cut  many  fine  flowers  from  them. 
It  is  quite  a  good  grower,  producing  a  fine  large 
flower  at  the  end  of  each  shoot,  but  which  will 
sometimes  be  found  to  have  a  split  in  it ;  white 
in  colour,  with  a  beautiful  pink  tint  on  the  out- 
side petal.  It  has  been  likened  to  White  Maman 
Cochet  without  due  reason,  as  the  flowers  are 
quite  distinct  in  colour  and  shape.  I  am  inclined 
to  say  it  is  quite  one  of  the  best  Teas  of  recent 
introduction,  and  I  should  place  it  high  up  among 
the  Roses  mentioned  in  these  articles  on  the 


PROTECTING   ROSES   IN  WINTER. 

As  I  write  a  sharp  frost  is  being  experienced 
more  or  less  all  over  the  country,  and  it  will  be 
well  to  see  about  what  protection  we  intend  to 
afford  our  plants.  The  late  growth,  especially 
upon  the  more  vigorous  varieties,  has  ripened 
with  me  better  than  I  expected ;  but  many  succu- 
lent shoots  are  quite  black  and  frozen  through. 
Here  (East  Sussex)  we  do  not  protect  much,  but 
I  am  convinced  we  should  do  it  early  rather  than 
during  midwinter,  even  if  only  to  assist  in  the 
more  steady  or  gradual  ripening  of  the  wood,  to 
say  nothing  of  having  the  necessary  material  at 
hand  should  an  extra  sharp  frost  prevail.  Over- 
protection,  so  as  to  keep  the  growth  soft,  is  bad  ; 
hit  the  medium  as  far  as  possible.  Roses  are  as 
hardy  as  the  majority  of  flowering 
shrubs,  and  only  need  the  keenest 
frost-laden  winds  warded  against. 
On  no  account  use  wet  manure  or 
even  short  litter.  When  it  is  most 
needed  it  either  blows  away  or  is 
so  saturated  as  to  do  more  harm 
than  good. 

The    easiest    and    most    simple 
plan  with  dwarfs  is  to  draw  some 
of  the  surrounding  soil  up  to  the 
base  of  the  plants.      This  acts  in 
two  ways — it  covers   the   bottom 
and  most  valuable  eyes,  and  also 
throws  off  superfluous  water  that 
would  otherwise  stay  around  the 
base  and  do   great   injury  when 
frozen.      Twigs   of   Spruce,   Birch 
and  other  shrubs  recommend  them- 
selves to  me  more  than  Bracken  or 
straw.      Stuck    into    the    ground 
these  remain  in  position  and  are 
there  when  most  wanted.      They 
break  the  wind,  which  is,  after  all, 
the  worst  part  of  frosty  weather, 
and  are  easily  fixed  or  removed, 
while  one  avoids  the  littery  mess 
of    material    drifting   about   into 
sheltered  corners  where  it  is  not 
wanttd.    A  little  Bracken  or  litter 
tied  among  and  around  the  heads 
of  standards  is  useful,  and  being 
partly  secured  answers  its  purpose 
very  well.     Here,  too,  I  prefer  a 
few  twigs  at  the  outside ;  they  bind 
the  whole  without  shutting   out 
so  much  air  and  light.     The  most 
fatal  part  of  standard  Roses  lies 
where  they  are  budded  upon  the 
Briar  stock,  and  I  would  advise 
that  this  tender  portion  always  be 
covered  where  protection  is  prac- 
tised. 
Plants  on  warm  walls  need  as  much  protection 
as  those  in  the  open.      We  generally  place  our 
more    tender    varieties    in    such  positions,  and 
should  not  lose  sight  of  this  fact.     Then,  again, 
the  sudden  thawing  of  frozen  growth  is  very 
injurious,  and  upon  warm,  sunny  walls  this  fre- 
quently takes  place  daily  during  a  spell  of  sharp 
weather.     If  one  possesses  any  choice  Roses  in 
such  a  position,  they  can  be  protected  quickly 
and  most  efficiently  by  nailing  a  mat  or  some 
coarse  tiffany  at  the  top  of  the  plants  and  allow- 
ing this  to  fall  over  them.     With  the  nails  ready 
fixed  it  is  very  little  trouble  to  hang  up  the  mat 
when  required.     Most  of  us  know  it  is  wisest  to 
place  plants  in  a  cool  cellar,  or  bury  them  in  soil 
if  possible,  when  they  are  received  during  frost ; 
even  if  the  plants  are  frozen  they  do  not  come  to 
much  harm  if  treated  thus  without  unpacking. 
It  is  altogether  a  mistaken  idea  to  thaw  them 
suddenly,  and  this  is  what  I  would  try  to  avoid 
with  plants  upon  a  warm  wall. 

Uckfield.  A.  Piper. 


604 


THE     GARDEN. 


[December  11,  1909. 


GARDENING     FOR     BEGINNERS. 

INCREASING    GOOSEBERRIES    AND    CURRANTS. 


GARDEN    WORK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES.— 
At  thia  time  of  the  year  cold, 
frosty  weather  is  usually  ex- 
perienced, and  many  beginners  in 
gardening  who  own  a  cold  green- 
house are  sorely  puzzled  as  to 
the  best  means  of  keeping  frost  at  bay.  Usually 
resource  is  had  to  an  oil  stove  of  some  kind, 
and  time  was  when  this  usually  turned  out  to  be 
a  worse  evil  than  the  frost.  Thanks  to  the 
eflforts  of  one  or  two 
of  our  leading  stove- 
makers,  whose  goods 
are  frequently  adver- 
tised in  The  Garden, 
there  are  now  several 
oil  stoves  to  be 
obtained  which,  if 
properly  attended  to 
and  the  best  oil  only 
is  used,  answer  the 
purpose  for  which  they 
are  intended  admir- 
ably. In  addition  to 
using  the  best  oil 
obtainable,  it  is  essen- 
tial that  the  burner 
and  wick  be  cleaned 
daily.  It  is  a  great 
mistake,  now  that 
properly  constructed 
stoves  can  be  obtained, 
to  use  ordinary  cook- 
ing oil  stoves  for 
heating  greenhouses  or 
frames. 

Fruit  Garden. — 
Where  it  is  intended 
to  plant  new  Vines, 
the  work  should  now 
be  proceeded  with,  as 
the  sooner  they  are  in 
position  the  better. 
Assuming  that  the 
border  has  been 
properly  prepared, 
with,  of  course,  per- 
fect drainage,  the 
actual  work  of  plant- 
ing will  not  entail  a 
great  amount  of  time 
or  work.  Usually 
young  Vines  are 
supplied  by  nursery- 
men in  pots,  and  to 
get  them  out  of  these 
it  may  be  necessary  tb 
smash  the  pots,  as  it 
often  happens  that  the 
mass  of  roots  becomes  firmly  wedged  therein. 
After  taking  out  a  hole  2  feet  in  diameter  and 
about  6  inches  deep,  shake  all  the  soil  from  the 
roots  of  the  Vine,  and  carefully  disentangle  them 
so  that  they  can  be  laid  out  their  full  length. 
Then  place  the  Vine  in  the  hole  so  that  the  rod  is 
well  away  from  the  hot-water  pipes,  and  gradually 
fill  in  the  hole  with  some  of  the  finest  soil  from 
the  border,  taking  oare  to  let  each  root  lie  at 
nearly  a  right  angle  to  the  rod.  After  the  hole 
is  filled  in  and  well  firmed,  the  latter  being  done 
as  the  filling  in  proceeds,  the  rod  should  be 
pruned  back  to  a  plump  bud  situated  about 
18  inches  from  the  base,  and  then  loosely  tied  up 
out  of  the  way.  Firm  tying  must  be  avoided  until 
the  soil  in  the  border  has  had  ample  time  to  settle. 

Flower  Oarden. — During  frosty  weather  work 
in  this  department   will    be   practically    at    a 


standstill,  and  at  such  time  advantage  should  be 
taken  of  the  slack  period  to  renew  any  labels 
that  need  it.  In  the  case  of  the  ordinary  wooden 
labels,  which  are  still  used  chiefly  for  border 
plants,  they  should  be  purchased  unpainted. 
When  required  for  use  give  the  smooth  writing 
surface  a  thin  coat  of  good  white  paint,  rubbing 
it  well  into  the  wood  with  a  piece  of  soft  rag. 
Before  this  dries  the  name  of  the  plant  and  any 
other  particulars  should  be  written.  If  this 
course  is  adopted  the  writing  will  last  as  long  as 


Where  plenty  of  roots  are  available,  repeat  the 
process  at  intervals  of  ten  days  or  a  fortnight. 
The  side  roots  may  be  cut  into  lengths  6  inches 
long,  making  the  top  cut  level  and  the  bottom 
one  sloping,  and  tied  into  small  bundles  and  laid 
in  sand  outdoors,  there  to  remain  until  early 
spring,  when  they  can  be  planted  to  provide 
crowns  for  forcing  another  winter.  Rhubarb 
may  be  treated  in  a  similar  manner,  but  in  this 
ease  it  will  not  be  necessary  or  desirable  to  trim 
off  the  side  roots  of  the  clumps,  but  rather  to 
lift  them  with  as  little 
disturbance  as  possible 
and  leave  them  exposed 
to  the  frost  for  a  few 
days.  Do  not  omit  to 
dig  and  trench  every 
vacant  foot  of  ground 
whenever  the  oppor- 
tunity occurs,  as 
nothing  but  good  can 
result  from  such  work. 
.An  excellent  substitute 
for  natural  manure  at 
this  season  is  Wakeley's 
Patent  Hop  Manure, 
which  I  have  now  used 
for  several  years  with 
excellent  results.      H. 


1.— BLACK  CURRANT  CDTTINSS.  THAT 
ON  THE  LEFT  IS  A  SHOOT  AS  CUT  FROM 
THE  BOSH  ANIl  ON  THE  RIGHT  IT  IS 
SHOWN  PREPARED  FOR  PLANTING. 
NOTE  THAT  THE  LOWER  BUDS  HAVE 
NOT  BEEN   REMOVED. 


2.— RED  CURRANT  CLlTI.NGs.  uN 
THE  LEFT  IS  A  SHOOT  AS  CUT 
FROM  THE  BUSH  AND  ON  THE 
RIGHT  PREPARED  FOR  PLANTING. 
NOTE  THAT  THE  LOWER  BUDS 
HAVE  BEEN   REMOVED. 


3.- 


-Gu 


the  label,  and  an  ordinary  good  lead  pencil  may 
be  used  for  the  purpose.  All  stakes  should  also 
be  overhauled,  the  decayed  ends  cut  away,  re- 
sharpened  and  painted  a  dull  green  colour  ;  after 
this  is  dry,  tie  them  neatly  into  bundles  of  two 
or  three  dozen  to  each,  according  to  their  length. 

Vegetable  Oarden. — Where  a  warm  house  or 
frame  is  available,  the  forcing  of  Seakale  may 
now  be  commenced.  Lift  some  of  the  strongest 
crowns,  trim  off  all  the  small  side  roots  and 
retain  them  for  making  into  cuttings,  and  then 
plant  the  crowns  from  4  inches  to  6  inches  apart 
in  a  deep  box,  using  ordinary  soil  containing  a 
good  amount  of  sand  and  leaf-soil,  and  placing 
the  crowns  so  that  their  tops  are  just  visible 
through  the  surface.  Then  give  a  good  watering, 
and  after  a  few  hours  cover  the  box  so  as  to 
entirely  exclude  light,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place. 


P  ROPAGATI NO 
CURRANTS  AND 
liOOSEBERRIES. 

The  cold,  dull  days  of 
winter  remind  us  of  the 
season  when  pruning 
of  a  somewhat  drastic 
nature  has  to  be  done 
with  Currants  and 
•  Jooseberries.  Only  so 
far  as  the  pruning 
provides  us  with  the 
necessary  material  for 
propagating  purposes 
are  we  really  interested 
at  this  period  in  this 
important  operation. 
We  are  glad  to  take 
advantage  of  the  oppor- 
tunity which  winter 
pruning  affords  of 
acquiring  the  neces- 
sary cuttings  for  per- 
petuating the  different 
stocks,  and  by  these 
means  provide  our- 
selves with  a  batch  of 
young  trees  to  take  the 
place  of  the  older  ones 
as  they  lose  their 
vigour,  or  as  new  plantations  are  required  from 
time  to  time.  When  the  weather  is  free  from 
frosts,  propagation  by  cuttings  may  be  done 
with  the  sure  prospect  of  success,  and  at  any 
time  before  the  sap  begins  to  rise  in  the  early 
spring  the  bushes  may  be  pruned  and  thus  pro- 
vide us  with  the  necessary  shoots  for  this  purpose. 
We  will  first  of  all  consider  the  Black  Currant, 
as  the  cuttings  of  this  bush  fruit  need  to  be 
treated  in  quite  different  fashion  to  those  of  Red 
and  White  Currants.  Cuttings  should  be  made 
from  clean,  healthy  shoots  of  the  present  year's 
growth,  and  should  be  from  12  inches  to  lo  inches 
in  length.  There  will  be  no  difficulty  in  pro- 
curing shoots  of  this  character  and  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  make  up  useful  little  nursery  beds. 
A  sharp  knife  is  necessary  for  "making"  the 
cuttings,  as  each  one  must  be  cut  through  imme- 
diately below  a  joint,  and  the  cut  should  be  a 


SEHEKK  i 


TREATED  IN  A  SIMILAR  MANNER. 
NOTE  THAT  THE  BUDS  AND  SPINES 
HAVE  BEEN  REMOVED  FROM  THE 
PREPARED  CUTTING  ON  THE  RIGHT. 


December  11,  1909.J 


THE    GAEDEN. 


605 


ole&D  one.  It  is  from  this  point  that  the  roots 
are  emitted,  and  a  jagged  or  torn  out  or  an 
abrasion  of  the  bark  may  cause  the  cutting  to 
fail.  To  complete  the  preparation  of  a  Black 
Currant  cutting,  the  bud  at  the  point  of  the 
shoot  should  be  removed,  as  this  has  the  effect 
of  inducing  growths  to  develop  at  the  base, 
which  is  essential  in  trees  of  this  hardy  fruit. 
The  whole  of  the  buds  are  retained  on  cuttings 
of  the  Black  Currant,  as  the  lower  buds  make 
strong  basal  shoots  that  spring  up  and  take  the 
place  of  the  older  growths  as  the  trees  develop. 
We  should  remember  that  Black  Currants  fruit 
on  the  new  growths.  To  make  the  case  quite 
clear,  two  cuttings  of  the  Black  Currant  are 
shown  in  Fig.  1.  That  on  the  left  is  a  cutting 
just  as  it  is  detached  from  the  bush,  and  that  on 
the  right  portrays  the  horizontal  cut  at  its  base, 
just  below  a  joint,  and  the  bud  at  the  point  of 
the  shoot  removed. 

In  the  ease  of  Red  and  White  Currants  the 
treatment  of  the  cuttings  differs  very  materi- 
ally from  that  accorded  to  those  of  their 
Blask  rival.  Clean,  healthy  shoots  are  just  as 
necessary,  and  their  length  should  be  much  the 
same.  They  must,  however,  be  prepared  in 
different  fashion.  Basal  shoots  in  Red  and 
White  Currants  must  be  guarded  against  at  all 
costs,  as  they  rob  the  bushes  of  much-needed 
vigour.  For  this  reason  each  cutting  as  it  is 
prepared  should  have  the  horizontal  cut  made  at 
its  base,  just  below  a  joint ;  the  bud  should  be 
cut  out  of  the  point  of  the  shoot,  the  three  or 
four  buds  immediately  below  this  should  be 
retained,  and  all  other  buds  below  those  retained 
should  be  rubbed  out.  The  removal  of  the 
lower  buds  will  prevent  the  development  of 
sucker  growths.  To  simplify  these  points  for 
the  beginner,  two  cuttings  of  Red  or  White 
Currant  are  shown  in  Fig.  2.  On  the  left  there 
is  represented  a  strong,  clean,  healthy  shoot  just 
as  it  was  cut  from  the  old  bush  when  the  pruning 
was  done.  Note  the  buds  as  they  are  repre- 
sented at  intervals  up  the  stem.  On  the  right 
there  is  shown  a  cutting  properly  prepared  and 
ready  for  insertion  in  the  nursery  bed.  In  this 
ease,  it  will  be  observed,  the  bud  at  the  apex  of 
the  cutting  has  been  removed,  and  immediately 
below  this  three  or  four  buds  have  been 
retained.  All  buds  below  this  latter  point  have 
been  rubbed  out  and  a  clean  cut  below  a  joint 
made  at  the  base  to  complete  the  operation. 

Gooseberry  cuttings  should  be  prepared  in 
much  the  same  way  as  that  recommended  for 
Red  and  White  Currants.  The  length  of  the 
cuttings  should  be  about  1  foot  or  rather  more, 
and  to  complete  their  preparation  a  cut  should 
be  made  cleanly  across  just  below  the  joint  at 
their  base.  Not  only  should  the  lower  buds  be 
removed,  but  the  thorns  should  be  shaved  off 
also.  To  make  these  points  quite  clear,  an 
unprepared  and  a  prepared  Gooseberry  cutting 
are  shown  in  Fig.  3.  On  the  left  is  seen  a 
promising  shoot  of  the  past  season's  development 
with  thorns  and  buds  intact,  just  as  it  was 
severed  from  the  bush.  On  the  right  the  thorns 
and  eyes  have  been  removed  from  the  lower 
part  of  the  shoot,  the  bud  at  the  apex  also 
removed,  and  the  necessary  clean  out  at  the  base 
to  complete  the  operation. 

Our  next  concern  is  the  preparation  of  the 
nursery  bed  and  the  actual  insertion  of  the 
cuttings.  Select,  if  possible,  a  fairly  open 
position  of  the  garden  where  the  soil  has  been 
well  worked  and  where  no  manure  has  been 
recently  dug  in.  No  better  quarters  could  be 
afforded  than  those  where  the  ground  has  been 
treated  liberally  with  manure  for  the  previous 
crop.  Fork  over  and  break  up  the  surface  soil, 
laking  over  subsequently  to  obtain  a  satisfactory 
finish.  A  trench  not  more  than  6  inches  deep 
should  be  cut  with  a  spade  and  the  cuttings 
inserted  in  this  about  8  inches  to  1  foot  apart, 
observing  a  distance  between  the  rows  of  1  foot 
also.  By  these  means  the  cuttings  can  be  inserted 
one-third  to  a  half  of  their  length  deep.  See  that 
the  cuttings  are  inserted  in  an  upright  position 


and  take  special  pains  to  see  that  the  soil  is 
made  firm  at  their  base.  To  ensure  this  being 
done  satisfactorily,  the  cuttings  should  be  made 
firm  by  treading  in  the  soil  as  the  rows  progress. 
In  heavy  and  retentive  soils  a  layer  of  sand  should 
be  placed  at  the  base  of  the  cuttings.  A  small 
nursery  bed  of  cuttings  is  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Here 
there  may  be  seen  a  row  of  Gooseberry  cuttings 
on  the  left,  the  beginning  of  a  row  of  Black 
Currants  in  the  middle  row,  and  a  row  of  Red  or 
White  Currants  on  the  right,  showing  the  small 
trench  taken  out  and  the  method  of  adjusting 
the  cuttings  in  position.  D.  B.  C. 


HOW  TO  PROPAGATE  EVERGREENS 
FROM  CUTTINGS. 
In  every  garden  where  evergreen  shrubs  are 
grown  there  are  some  specimens  that  get  bare 
and  unsightly  near  the  base  ;  and  though,  in 
certain  instances,  cutting  back  will  cause  new 
shoots  to  grow  which  will  eventually  make  the 
shrub  more  bushy,  few  are  as  satisfactory  as  nice 
young  plants. 

Propagation  hy  Cuttings. — Various  kinds  of 
evergreen  shrubs,  such  as  Euonymuses,  Aucubas, 
Veronicas,  Laurels,  Laurustinuses,  &c.,  are  all 
easily  propagated  by  the  insertion  of  cuttings. 
The  Euonymus  cuttings  may  be  inserted  in  a 
cool  frame,  which  will  afford  them  some  protec- 
tion against  the  severe  weather  ;  but,  failing  an 
available  frame,  put  the  cuttings  in  an  outside 
border  which  is  suitable  for  the  majority  of 
shrubs.  A  border  with  a  north  or  north-east 
aspect  is  the  best  for  the  cuttings  to  be  rooted 
in.  If  the  weeds  are  all  carefully  cleared  off  the 
surface,  there  will  be  no  need  to  dig  up  the 
soil ;  in  fact,  it  is  much  wiser  not  to  dig  the 
border.  For  all  large-leaved  kinds  of  shrubs, 
such  as  the  Aucuba,  a  space  of  quite  18  inches  must 
be  left  between  the  rows  of  inserted  cuttings. 
Open    a    trench   with   a   spade   about  6  inches 


4: — PKBPABBD  CUTTINGS  OF  GOOSEBERBIBS  AND 
CDRRANTS  PLANTED  IN  A  NURSERY   BED. 

deep  and  having  one  perpendicular  side,  against 
which  the  cuttings  must  be  fixed  with  the  base 
of  each  resting  in  a  thin  layer  of  coarse  sand. 
Put  the  large-leaved  kinds  10  inches  apart  in  the 
rows  and  the  smaller-leaved  ones  6  inches  apart. 
The  cuttings  should  be  about  9  inches  long, 
except  those  of  smaller  kinds  of  shrubs,  which 
must  be  7  inches  long.  In  preparing  the  cuttings, 
sever  them  below  a  joint  and  cut  off  the  lower 
leaves.  Shamrock. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


Stocks  of  Bedding-outPlants. — Thisis  the  most 
trying  time  of  the  whole  of  the  winter  season  tor 
the  stocks  of  bedding-out  plants.  Fog  and  frost 
combined  do  much  damage  to  the  tender  plants 
unless  the  latter  can  be  duly  protected  by  a  good 
heating  apparatus ;  then  the  cultivator  need  not 
be  alarmed,  as  he  can  easily  combat  the  very 
worst  weather.  Those  persons,  however,  who 
have  to  depend  upon  glass  porches,  dwelling- 
room  windows  or,  at  best,  an  indifferently  heated 
conservatory  or  greenhouse,  must  be  on  the  alert 
constantly  to  prevent  frosts  and  excessive 
moisture  from  damaging  the  plants.  Newly 
rooted  cuttings  of  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  Helio- 
trope, Verbenas,  Lobelias  and  Coleuses  must  be 
very  carefully  examined  and  all  fading  leaves 
removed  at  once.  Even  one  rotting  leaf,  if 
allowed  to  remain  in  touch  with  a  sound  stem  for 
several  days,  will  so  contaminate  the  latter  that 
it  will  soon  decay  and  be  lost.  So  we  see  the 
great  importance  of  keeping  all  plants  free  from 
fading  leaves.  Then  there  is  the  question  of 
ventilation.  It  is  quite  a  mistake  to  allow  a  glass 
structure  to  be  kept  closed  in  both  fine  and 
unfavourable  weather.  Whenever  an  oppor- 
tunity occurs  the  ventilators  must  be  opened, 
and  if  the  pipes  are  warmed  at  the  same  time  it 
is  wonderful  how  soon  the  interior  of  the  house 
will  become  dry.  I  may  also  say  here  that  all 
lovers  of  winter-flowering  Zonal  Pelargoniums 
must  treat  their  plants  in  a  similar  way  ;  then 
there  will  be  fewer  decaying  trusses  of  blooms. 
Water  should  never  be  given  too  frequently  nor 
in  excess.  There  is  not  as  much  evaporation 
from  the  soil  in  winter-time  as  in  the  summer, 
neither  do  the  stems  and  leaves  of  the  plants  dry 
as  quickly,  and  so  water  must  be  applied  in 
such  quantity  as  to  maintain  the  roots  in  a  fresh, 
healthy  condition ;  then  the  plants  will  grow  into 
fine  specimens  in  due  season.  When  water  is 
needed,  sutficient  must  be  given  to  thoroughly 
saturate  all  the  soil  in  the  pot  or  box,  as  the  case 
may  be ;  mere  surface  waterings  would  do  harm — 
they  often  result  in  the  premature  and  rapid 
decay  of  basal  leaves,  and  sometimes  of  the 
whole  plant. 

Pansies. — In  gardens  where  the  soil  is  quite 
light  and  naturally  well  drained.  Pansy  plants 
will  survive  very  severe  weather  nicely  and 
bloom  freely  the  following  spring  ;  but  in  clayey 
soils  the  case  is  different.  A  friend  of  mine, 
who  is  a  horticultural  journalist  of  the  first  rank 
and  an  enthusiastic  gardener,  too,  told  me,  when 
I  recently  visited  bira,  that  he  should  winter  his 
Pansy  plants  in  a  cool  frame  owing  to  his  soil 
being  of  a  close,  heavy  nature.  My  own  plants 
are  growing  in  a  much  lighter  soil,  but  I  intend 
to  afford  them  some  temporary  protection 
during  severe  spells  of  weather.  It  is  only 
at  such  times  that  any  protection  is  neces- 
sary. Undue  covering  up  of  the  plants  would 
certainly  weaken  them ;  at  all  times,  except 
when  there  is  severe  frost,  plants  growing  in 
frames  must  be  exposed,  the  glass  lights  being 
removed  altogether.  The  same  kind  of  treat- 
ment must  be  meted  out  to  Antirrhinums,  Pent- 
stemons  and  similar  kinds  of  border  plants 
recently  propagated  from  cuttings  ;  then  they 
will  not  suffer  from  checks. 

Gaps  in  Bordbes.— Cultivators  who  have, 
several  weeks  ago,  finished  the  work  of  filling 
beds  with  spring-flowering  subjects  must  now 
closely  examine  all  sucli  borders.  Probably 
some  bulbs  may  have  been  destroyed  ;  then  it  is 
advisable  to  put  in  more  sound  bulbs  of  the 
same  kinds.  Perhaps  a  few  plants  used  to  form 
a  groundwork  to  bulbs  and  tall-growing  subjects 
have  died.  In  such  instances  the  gaps  should  be 
filled ;  and  especially  must  all  gaps  be  made  good 
in  edgings,  as  when  the  plants  are  flowering  in 
spring  such  openings  appear  so  very  conspicuous. 
Even  when  gaps  are  filled  at  the  present  time  it 
is  a  wise  plan  to  keep  some  stock  plants  until  spring, 
so  as  to  be  sure  of  them  if  required.      Avon. 


606 


THE    GAEDEN. 


[December  11,  1909. 


GARDENING     OF    THE 
WEEK. 

FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND  SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower     Garden. 

BEDDING  CALCEOLARIAS,  Penste- 
mons,  Violas  and  other  somewhat 
hardy  plants  wintered  in  cold  frames 
will  need  all  the  air  possible  in  mild 
weather  ;  but  when  frosty  and  the 
wind  is  keen,  keep  the  lights  drawn 
over  them.  Alternantheras,  Iresines,  Coleuses 
and  similar  plants  should  be  given  a  warm  posi- 
tion in  the  stove  and  near  to  the  light,  to  prevent 
weak  growth.  Do  not  keep  the  plants  too  wet, 
but  as  soon  as  they  show  signs  of  fresh  growth 
give  more  tepid  water.  Examine  the  bulbs  of 
Begonias,  Dahlias  and  Gladioli,  and  if  any  are 
rotten  remove  them  at  onoe  to  prevent  others 
from  going  bad. 

Laurels. — When  the  weather  is  unfavourable 
for  planting,  much  other  work  may  be  done. 
Laurels  which  have  become  very  bare  at  the 
bottom  may  be  cut  down  to  within  a  foot  or  less 
of  the  ground  level.  Although  for  a  short  period 
they  may  look  bare,  in  a  season  or  two  this 
bareness  will  be  replaced  with  a  beautiful  lot  of 
healthy,  robust  growths,  and  a  very  pleasing 
effect  will  be  the  result.  All  leaves  may  be 
raked  out  from  among  other  shrubs,  and  the 
surface  of  the  soil  forked  over.  Top-dress  choice 
specimen  trees  with  suitable  compost.  These 
are  important  matters  which  must  not  be  over- 
looked where  there  are  a  quantity  of  choice 
speoimen  shrubs  and  trees.  Collect  quantities  of 
leaves  for  leaf-mould,  which,  when  well  rotted, 
will  be  found  exceptionally  useful. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Pear  Trees  will  have  shed  their  leaves  and  may 
now  be  pruned.  Keep  the  centres  of  bush-trained 
specimens  well  open.  Spur  the  side  shoots  back  to 
a  couple  of  eyes  and  shorten  the  leaders  more  or 
less  according  to  the  growth  and  height  required. 
Those  about  to  plant  cordons  should  see  that  the 
borders  are  perfectly  prepared.  If  the  soil  is 
heavy  and  deep,  I  would  advise  those  trees 
worked  on  a  surface-rooting  stock  ;  but  on  a  light 
land  use  the  deepar-rooting  stocks,  and  the  same 
remarks  apply  to  Apples.  When  trained  as 
horizontal  cordons  by  the  side  of  paths  they 
(both  Apples  and  Pears)  have  a  pleasing  effect, 
and  if  lifted  occasionally  (should  the  wood  grow 
too  strong)  fruit  freely.  I  have  seen  some  of  the 
finest  exhibition  fruits  taken  from  cordons. 
Kitchen  Garden. 

When  the  weather  is  suitable  push  forward 
the  trenching  and  digging  of  vacant  plots, 
regulating  the  manure  according  to  the  soil  and 
crop  it  is  intended  to  bear  next  year,  it  being 
both  an  error  and  a  waste  to  use  manure  indis- 
criminately without  first  considering  the  future 
crop.  For  Potatoes,  I  prefer  manuring  rather 
heavily  for  some  previous  crop,  and  very 
sparingly,  if  at  all,  at  the  time  of  planting  the 
Potatoes,  believing  that  the  tubers  are  superior 
in  quality  and  less  liable  to  be  attacked  by 
disease.  Lift  Rhubarb  for  forcing,  placing 
the  roots  in  some  dark  place  where  the  tempera- 
ture stands  at  55°.  Seakale  may  now  be  forced 
with  ease.  Roots  with  well-ripened  crowns 
placed  in  the  Mushroom-house  will  soon  grow 
and  bleach  perfectly  white.  Gather  leaves  and 
manure,  to  be  well  mixed  to  form  beds  for  forcing 
the  Seakale  under  pots.  A  gentle  heat  will 
suffice  to  start  the  crowns  into  growth.  Take 
up  plenty  of  Horseradish  in  readiness  should 
the  weather  prove  severe.  Protect  Celery  with 
a  little  Fern  or  long  litter,  mulch  Globe 
Artichokes  with  strawy  litter,  and  protect  Beet 
and  other  root  crops. 

H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 

Wrotham  Park  Oardtna,  Barjiet. 


FOR    THE   NORTH   AND    NORTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Indoor  Fruit  Department. 
Stove  Plants. — The  annual  winter  examination 
and  cleansing  of  these  should  now  be  carried  out. 
The  practice  of  top-dressing  at  this  season  is  not 
approved  universally,  but  its  beneficial  effects 
upon  plant-life  in  general,  and  more  especially 
upon  those  much  restricted  at  the  roots,  is  little 
short  of  marvellous.  The  necessary  vaporising 
and  after-sponging  of  the  foliage  should  precede 
the  removal  of  the  surface  soil,  which  should  be 
done  to  a  depth  commensurate  with  the  size  of 
the  pots  or  other  receptacles  and  the  condition 
of  the  root  system.  By  the  aid  of  a  pointed 
stick  the  surface  may  be  raised  and  removed 
until  the  roots  are  laid  bare,  when  a  compost 
of  fibrous  loam,  peat  and  sand,  well  mixed, 
should  be  at  hand  ready  for  replenishment. 
Patent  manure,  at  the  rate  of  Mb.  to  every 
peck  of  the  above  compost,  may  be  added  if 
thought  necessary. 

Fern- House. — The  last-mentioned  treatment 
may  be  followed  here,  previously  cutting  away 
all  damiged  or  decaying  fronds.  Though  very 
few  species  are  improved  by  getting  dust  dry, 
considerably  less  water  should  now  be  given, 
which  will  result  in  a  hardening  of  the  fronds, 
and,  combined  with  somewhat  reduced  tem- 
peratures, will  tend  to  a  period  of  rest. 
The  Greenhouse. 

Primulas,  Cinerarias  and  Gyclamen  will,  from 
now  onwards,  make  a  display  of  bloom.  Where 
possible,  give  each  plant  sufficient  space  for 
development  and  encourage  growth  by  applying 
weak  liquid  manure  occasionally.  Succession 
plants  will  need  much  care,  as,  if  kept  too  warm, 
they  will  advance  too  rapidly  and  the  leaf -stalks 
become  unduly  attenuated. 

Chrysanthemums,  being  at  their  best,  should  be 
frequently  inspected,  and  if  green-fly  is  dis- 
covered, the  vaporising  outfit  should  at  once  be 
requisitioned.  It  is  of  much  importance  to  see 
that  all  the  plants  are  correct  to  name,  otherwise 
much  annoyance  may  be  caused  another  year 
owing  to  this  mischance.  Cuttings  may  now  be 
taken  and  inserted  as  they  become  fit,  though 
this  work  may  well  be  spread  over  several  weeks ; 
but  as  some  varieties  are  chary  in  producing 
cuttings,  opportunities  of  obtaining  these  should 
not  be  lost.  A  compost  of  fresh  loam  and  leaf- 
soil  in  equal  parts  and  sufficient  sand  to  make  it 
friable  answers  well.  A  small  frame  placed 
within  a  house  from  which  frost  can  be  readily 
excluded  is  better  than  an  excess  of  heat. 
Plants  for  Forcing. 

Azaleas,  Rhododendrons,  Kalmias  and  others 
very  similar  that  are  expected  to  flower  in  early 
spring  should  now  be  removed  from  the  outside 
plunge-bed  to  a  position  under  glass,  or  if  planted 
out,  potting  should  be  done  without  delay. 
The  Kitchen  Garden. 

Trenching. — It  goes  without  saying  that  all 
cropped  ground  must  be  dug  once  a  year  at  least, 
but  in  addition  an  effort  should  be  made  to 
deeply  trench  a  portion  yearly.  After  removing 
the  customary  3  feet  space  of  soil  from  one  end 
of  the  plot  selected  to  the  other,  most  of  the 
season's  accumulation  of  decayed  or  decaying 
rubbish  may  be  placed  thereon,  together  with  a 
fair  amount  of  manure.  The  interment  of  this 
may  raise  the  ground  at  first  inordinately  high, 
but  by  the  next  cropping  season  it  will  be 
scarcely  noticeable.  Commencing  within  the 
trench  mentioned,  thoroughly  break  up  the  sub- 
stratum as  deeply  as  possible  previous  to  putting 
in  the  vegetable  refuse  with  a  layer  of  manure 
above  it.  Upon  this  turn  the  good  soil  from  the 
next  space  and  dig  the  lowest  spit  as  before, 
but  still  keep  it  below.  By  covering  all  bare 
ground  with  debris  on  the  approach  of  frost, 
useful  and  pleasant  work  may  be  carried  on  when 
most  other  outside  operations  are  perforce  at  a 
standstill.  James  Dat. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn.) 

Galloway  House,  Oarlieaton,  Wigtownshire. 


BOOKS. 

The  Book  of  the  Sweet  Pea.*— The 

past  two  years  have  witnessed  the  publication  of 
several  books  on  the  Sweet  Pea,  but,  apparently, 
there  is  a  demand  for  them  all,  and  this  latest 
addition  is  certainly  worthy  of  a  place  on  the 
bookshelf  of  all  lovers  of  this  charming  annual 
flower.  The  author  deals  with  the  subject  in  a 
very  thorough  and  generally  pleasant  manner, 
although  the  phraseology  is  sometimes  of  a 
redundant  character.  All  aspects  of  culture  are 
fully  gone  into,  and  we  note  with  pleasure  that 
in  dealing  with  propagation  by  cuttings  the 
author  advises  care  to  be  taken,  a  point  that 
should  be  emphasised.  The  chapter  on  the 
history  and  evolution  of  the  Sweet  Pea  is  an 
exceedingly  interesting  one,  and  those  devoted  to 
the  exhibition  of  the  flowers,  and  also  their  use 
for  table  and  other  decorations,  are  full  of 
valuable  information.  Pests  and  diseases,  too, 
are  dealt  with  fully,  and  the  advice  given  on 
these  matters  is  of  a  very  useful  character.  The 
culture  of  Sweet  Peas  under  glass  for  early 
flowers  is  a  chapter  that  will  appeal  to  many, 
this  system  of  growing  these  flowers  being  as  yet 
but  little  understood.  There  are  quite  a  number 
of  illustrations,  but  the  majority  of  these  are 
poor  and  really  of  little  value  or  interest.  They 
would  have  been  rendered  more  useful  had  the 
colour  been  included  in  the  title,  as  is  done  in  a 
few  cases.  Then,  again,  we  do  not  see  the 
necessity  for  illustrating  sprays  of  the  variety 
Evelyn  Hemus  in  two  places,  viz.,  facing  pages 
12  and  04.  The  vase  of  blooms  supposed  to  be 
arranged  for  exhibition  would  have  been  better 
omitted.  In  the  raising  of  new  Sweet  Peas, 
which  the  author  deals  with  in  a  practical  and 
intelligent  manner,  we  think  fuller  information 
should  have  been  given  on  the  fixing  of  new  sorts. 
However,  the  above-mentioned  defects  are  not 
serious,  and  many  could  be  remedied  in  a  second 
edition,  this  being  the  main  reason  for  drawing 
attention  to  them  here.  The  book  is  one  to  buy 
and  read,  and  even  the  specialist  will,  we  think, 
find  something  of  interest  in  its  pages. 

The  Flowers  and  Gardens  of 
Madeira.t — This  is  a  charming  book  worthy  to 
rank  with  "  The  Flowers  and  Gardens  of  Japan  " 
by  the  same  author,  and  the  coloured  illustrations 
are  not  only  instructive,  but  gems  of  their  kind. 
They  are  well  reproduced,  and  without  detracting 
from  the  good  work  of  the  author  are  the  chief 
feature.  The  plates  depicting  "  Wistaria,  Smta 
Luzia,"  "  A  Drinking  Fountain,"  "  Almond 
Blossom  "  and  "  Azaleas  in  a  Portuguese  Garden  " 
are  delightful,  but  not  one  illustration  is  really  less 
worthy  of  praise  than  those  mentioned.  Madeira, 
as  those  are  aware  who  have  visited  the  lovely 
island,  is  an  island  of  flowers,  and  one  gains 
a  deep  impression  of  its  beauty  and  the 
luxuriance  and  variety  of  its  vegetation  from 
the  author's  descriptions.  The  following  ex- 
tract shows  the  character  of  the  book  : 
"Any  feeling  of  disappointment  that  the 
traveller  may  have  experienced  from  his  first 
cursory  glance  at  the  island  must  surely  be 
quickly  dispelled  on  landing,  especially  if  this 
should  be  in  the  month  of  January,  when,  having 
left  the  snows  and  frosts  of  Europe  behind,  after 
travelling  for  four  days  he  is  basking  in  the 
almost  perpetual  sunshine  of  so-called  winter  in 
Madeira.  Lovers  of  flowers — and  to  those  I  most 
recommend  a  visit  to  the  island — will  find  fresh 
beauties  at  every  turn  of  the  street.  The 
gorgeous-coloured  creepers  seem  to  have  taken 
possession  everywhere.  Hanging  over  every 
wall  where  their  presence  is  permitted  will  come 
tumbling  some  great  mass  of  creeper,  be  it  the 
orange  Bignonia  venustus,  whose  clusters  of 
surely  the  most  brilliant  orange-coloured  flower 


•  "The  Book  of  the  Sweet  Pea,"  by  D.  B.  Crane.  Mr. 
John  Lane,  The  Bodley  Head,  Vigo  Street,  London,  W. 
Price  2s.  6d.  net. 

t  "  The  Flowers  and  G.irden8  of  Madeira."  Painted  by 
Ella  du  Cane  ;  described  by  Florence  du  Cane.  A.  and  C. 
Black,  London.    Price  78.  tid.  net. 


December  11,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


607 


that  grows  completely  smother  the  foliage ;  or 
the  scarlet,  purple,  ©r  lilac  Bougainvillea,  whose 
splendour  will  take  one's  breath  away,  with  its 
dazzling  mass  of  blossoms.  The  great  white 
trumpets  of  the  Datura,  combined  possibly  with 
the  flaunting  red  Poinsettia  blossoms,  will  quickly 
show  the  fresh  arrival  the  bewildering  variety  of 
the  vegetation — so  much  so  that  I  cannot  fail 
to  sympathise  with  Mr.  Bowdiok,  who,  writing 
on  the  subject,  says  :  '  The  enchanting  landscape 
which  presents  itself  flatters  the  botanist  at  the 
first  view  with  a  rich  harvest,  and  not  until  he 
begins  to  work  in  earnest  does  he  foresee  the 
labours  of  his  task.  What  can  be  more  delight- 
ful than  to  see  the  Banana  and  the  Violet  on  the 
same  bank,  and  the  Melia  Azedaraoh,  with  its 
shining  leaves,  raising  its  summit  as  high  as  that 
of  its  neighbour,  the  Populus  alba  ? "  "  The 
Flowers  and  Gardens  of  Madeira "  should  be  in 
every  library. 

English  Leadwopk.*— In  giving  a  full 
and  careful  account  of  the  English  craftsman's 
various  and  successive  modes  of  dealing  with 
lead,  Mr.  Weaver  rightly  includes  fents  and 
steeples,  roofs  and  rain-water-heads.  But  it  is 
the  section  that  deals  with  such  garden  adorn- 
ments as  statues,  vases  and  cisterns  that  will 
attract  the  reader  of  The  Garden,  and  it  is  by 
way  of  whetting  his  appetite  for  the  solid  yet 
skilfully  prepared  and  appetisingly  served  repast 
which  he  will  find  in  Chapters  IV.,  VIII.,  IX. 
and  X.  that  we  propose  to  say  a  few  words  on 
the  subject.  Mr.  Weaver  is  right  in  pointing  out 
that  lead,  owing  to  its  own  texture  and  te  the 
colour  our  climate  gives  to  it,  assimilates  excel- 
lently with  the  general  tone  and  character  of  our 
gardens.  "  It  has  a  gentle  unobtrusive  quality 
which  harmonises  with  the  domestic  air  of 
gardens."  It  therefore  became  very  popular 
when  formal  gardens  were  in  the  minds  of 
Englishmen  and  when  there  was  money  in  their 
pockets  for  an  extensive  indulgence  in  this 
splendid  hobby.  The  large  use  of  lead  for  this 
purpose  arose  under  Charles  II.,  and  decayed 
under  George  II.,  while  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne 
was  the  heyday  of  the  art.  The  Landscape  School 
played  sad  havoc  with  all  that  had  been  done  by 
the  Formalists,  and  the  denizens  of  Olympus, 
from  Jupiter  to  Cupid,  crowded  the  melting- 
pots.  Yet,  very  happily,  many  fair  specimens  of 
the  garden  lead-worker's  craft  survive,  some 
even  in  their  original  sites  and  with  little-altered 
setting.  Such  is  the  ease  at  Harrowden,  where 
three  out  of  four  fine  heroic  groups  survive. 
The  fourth  pedestal  is  vacant.  'Tradition  states 
that  its  glorious  burden  was  removed  as  fit 
material  for  roof  mending  !  These  may  have  been 
the  work  of  Peter  Scheemakers,  one  of  the  many 
foreign  sculptors  who  found  a  rich  field  for  their 
art  in  England.  Another  was  John  van  Nost, 
who  in  1706  oast  the  lavishly  ornamented  urn  at 
Melbourne,  whose  great  bulk  gives  such  distinc- 
tion to  the  meeting  point  of  the  ' '  crow's  f oot " 
alleys.  Statues  by  him  richly  adorn  this  remark- 
able surviving  example  of  the  garden  art  of 
Henry  Wise,  and  here,  too,  we  find  the  kneeling 
figures  of  a  "  blackamoor  "  and  of  an  Indian. 
Both  were  popular  subjects  under  Queen  Anne, 
especially  the  blackamoor,  who  was  repre- 
sented in  flesh  and  blood  in  the  household  of 
every  eminent  lady  of  fashion.  At  Melbourne 
these  two  figures  support  vases,  but  their  burden 
is  more  often  a  sundial,  as  it  is  at  Glemham. 
Glemham  for  a  while  was  rich  in  leadwork,  for 
here  stood  not  only  a  "Winter"  and  a  "Pan," 
but  also  exceedingly  fine  portrait  statues  of 
Prince  Eugene  and  of  the  Duke  of  Marlborough 
— dating,  no  doubt,  from  the  day  of  the  battle 
of  Blenheim — bought  at  a  sale  at  Campsey  Ash. 
Alas  !  they  are  again  on  the  move,  a  fate  which 
only  the  other  day  befel  the  leaden  ornaments  of 
Enfield  Old  Park.  The  parish  of  Enfield  was 
notable  for  its  good  houses  and  stately  gardens 
in  Defoe's  time,  but  the  collection  of  objects  at 


Old  Park  was  made  in  the  nineteenth  century. 
Their  recent  dispersal  attracted  much  attention, 
as  will  the  destiny  of  the  Flying  Mercury,  of 
which  so  fine  a  representation  is  given  as  the 
frontispiece  ot  Mr.  Weaver's  book.  It  is  at 
Holme  Lacy,  but  is  no  doubt  one  of  the  lots  in 
the  forthcoming  sale.  The  quick  changes  and 
unstable  ownerships  of  to-day  are  very  forcibly 
brought  to  our  minds  by  these  numerous  trans- 
ferences since  the  quite  recent  day  when  Mr. 
Weaver  revised  his  proofs.  This  transitoriness 
even  of  ponderous  lead  makes  the  book  of  great 
value  as  a  record  of  the  locale  of  lead  objects  in 
1909,  as  well  as  of  a  history  of  the  art  of  lead- 
working.  In  both  respects  it  may  be  relied  on, 
for  it  is  laboriously  compiled  and  correctly 
arranged.  It  shows  also  intelligent  appreciation 
and  just  criticism,  and  all  who  take  an  interest 
in  leadwork — modern  as  well  as  ancient — as 
garden  adornments  will  derive  sure  knowledge 
from  its  pages. — T. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS 


RULES    FOR    CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and  An3wep3,~~The  Editor  intends 
to  make  THE  GARDEN  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
o^sistaTice,  no  matter  what  the  brarwh  of  gardening  may 
be,  and  with  that  object  vrill  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
"Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions shotild  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  20,  Tavistock  Street^  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C,  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  nam>e  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  u^ed  in  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  ea^h  s?iould 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


"English  Leadwork,"  by  L.  Weaver,  F.S.A.    Batsford, 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 

Ppopagatlngf  Dahlias  (Odersfelt).— 
Without  a  greenhouse  or  frame  you  can  do 
little  so  far  as  increasing  the  stock  of  these 
flowers  is  concerned,  your  only  remaining  way 
being  by  division  of  the  roots  during  winter  or 
spring.  If,  however,  you  purchased  a  few  bell- 
glasses,  say  of  a  size  to  fit  inside  a  pot  of  H  inches 
diameter,  you  might  in  spring  try  rooting 
cuttings  of  the  lUhlias  in  a  window  by  first 
inserting  them  in  a  pot  5  inches  across  and 
plunging  this  within  the  larger  pot  named,  using 
sand  to  fill  up  the  interstices  and  covering  them 
with  the  bell-glasses.  The  rooting  is  not  impossible 
by  these  means,  but  it  may  be  found  rather  slow, 
and  only  heel  cuttings  would  be  likely  to  do  much 
good.  You  may  keep  the  roots  during  the 
winter  in  any  shed,  outhouse  or  cellar  from 
which  frost  is  excluded.  When  the  frost  has  cut 
down  the  plants  the  latter  should  be  lifted  and 
the  bulk  of  the  soil  removed,  the  stools  being 
presently  stored  away.  Many  roots  are  kept  in 
sheds,  lofts,  coal-cellars  and  similar  places,  and 
so  long  as  frost  does  not  reach  them  all  will  be 
well.  During  the  winter  the  soil  may  be  shaken 
from  the  roots,  and  you  would  then  be  able  to 
see  whether  division  was  possible.  This  opera- 
tion or  its  successful  performance  will  depend  to 
some  extent  on  the  size  of  the  plants,  and  not  a 
little  upon  the  operator. 

Oentiana  acaulis   blooming  In   autumn 

(L.  B.). — Altbousb  not  common,  the  flowering  or  Gentiana 
acaulis  in  autumn  is  not  rare,  and  we  have  seen  it  do  ao 
several  times,  especially  in  a  dull  autumn  and  in  wet 
districts.  Probably  tbe  character  of  the  season  has  been 
responsible  for  this. 

AWlntep  Violets  In  ft>ames  ilf.  C.  E.  W.).~We 
have  not  grown  Violet  plants  for  sale,  only  for  private 
supply.  As  regards  the  number  of  plants  it  will  take  to  till 
your  frame,  this  will  depend  entirely  on  the  size  of  the 
plants.  We  suggest  that  the  beat  thing  for  jou  to  do 
in  ordering  your  plants  would  be  to  give  the  size 
of  your  frame  to  the  person  from  whom  your  plants  are 
purchased. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Heating    two    greenhouses 

(X.Y.Z.). — With  such  a  limited  amount  of 
piping  and  such  a  small  boiler  you  cannot  hope 
to  keep  out  severe  frosts  without  a  good  deal  of 
covering,  and  even  then,  should  the  weather  be 
very  severe,  you  might  not  succeed.  The  first 
house  will  need  a  -1-inoh  flow  and  return  pipe  along 
the  front  in  addition  to  the  one  already  there, 
and  the  second  should  at  least  have  all  4-inch 
pipes.  Even  then  it  is  more  than  probable  that 
the  boiler  is  far  too  small,  and  we  think  that  for 
the  successful  culture  of  the  plants  mentioned 
the  heating  apparatus  altogether  requires  re- 
modellins;.  A  great  drawback  to  a  house  with 
an  insufiieient  amount  of  piping  is  that  in  severe 
weather  it  is  necessary  (in  order  to  keep  out  the 
frost)  to  make  the  pipes  too  hot  for  the  welfare 
of  the  plants  in  the  house. 

Stephanotls  floplbunda  fruiting' 
(S.  B.). — It  is  decidedly  unusual  for  Stephanotis 
floribunda  to  bear  fruit,  yet,  at  the  same  time, 
it  cannot  be  regarded  as  a  rare  occurrence.  We 
have,  however,  met  with  it  several  times.  It 
you  have  "Nicholson's  Dictionary  of  Gardening" 
you  will  find  there  an  illustration  of  one  of  Jihe 
fruits.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe  it  will  split  and 
disclose  the  seeds  with  their  silky  appendages. 
The  Stephanotis  belongs  to  a  very  poisonous 
family,  namely,  Asclepiadeje,  so  do  not  be 
tempted  to  taste  it.  Seeds  have  been  ripened 
and  plants  raised  therefrom,  but  in  the  instances 
that  have  come  under  our  notice  the  results  were 
not  sufficient  to  pay  for  the  trouble,  as  seedlings 
take  a  much  longer  time  to  flower  than  do  plants 
raised  from  cuttings,  which  will  root  readily. 
Again,  one  may  reasonably  expect  a  certain 
amount  of  variation  in  the  case  of  plants  raised 
from  seed  ;  and  though  there  is  just  the  possi- 
bility of  raising  an  improved  form,  the  probability 
is  that  the  progeny  will  be  inferior  to  the  best 
garden  kinds  such  as  the  Elvaston  Castle  variety. 

Name  and  treatment  of  plant  (H.  M.  M.).— 
The  name  of  the  enclosed  rtijwer  is  Crinum  Moorei.  The 
flowers  vary  somewhat  in  colour,  that  sent  by  you  being 
a  particularly  good  pink  form.  This  Crinum  sometimes 
produces  ort'sets  by  which  it  can  be  increased,  or,  if  the 
plant  is  kept  in  a  greenhouse  and  the  flowers  fertilised 
with  their  own  pollen,  some  of  them  will  probably  pro- 
duce seeds,  which  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe. 
The  seeds  of  this  Crinum  ara,  when  full  grown,  as  large  as 
a  small  Chestnut. 

Verbena  Miss  Wlllmott  (E.E.  i?.).— The  variety 
of  Verbena  alluded  to  by  you  does  not  produce  seed ;  heuce 
the  greater  part  are  propagated  from  old  plants  kept  over 
the  winter  and  pat  into  heat  early  in  the  year.  These 
soon  push  out  a  number  of  new  shoots,  which,  taken  off  as 
cuttings  while  quite  soft,  will  root  in  a  few  days.  In  many 
districts,  however,  Verbenas  winter  badly ;  therefore  we 
think  your  better  way  will  be  to  obtain  young  plants  when 
the  bedding  season  comes  round.  Any  nurserymen  who 
make  a  speciality  of  bedding  plants  would  be  able  to 
supply  them. 

Plants  for  hansins  baskets  (.E.  M.  L.).— 
An  exceedingly  difficult  question  to  answer,  as  the  climatic 
conditions  in  South  Africa  are  widely  ditferent  from  those 
experienced  in  this  country.  If  properly  planted  and  due 
attention  is  given.  Maiden-hair  Ferns  will  keep  for  years  in 
good  condition  when  grown  in  hanging  baskets;  but  as 
youra  were  taken  from  the  forest,  the  check  of  removal 
was  probably  too  great  for  them,  and  they  ultimately 
perished.  As  we  know  nothing  of  the  conditions  under 
which  your  hanging  baskets  are  situatsd,  we  can  only  give 
you  a  few  hints  applicable  to  this  country.  In  the  llrst 
place,  the  basket  mnst  be  effectually  lined  with  flaky  moaa, 
so  that  no  soil,  however  fine,  can  escape  therefrom.  The 
compost  selected  should  be  of  a  fairly  flbroua  nature,  s.-vy, 
a  mixture  of  turfy  loam  and  peat  or  leaf-mould  with  a 
little  sand.  The  subjects  selected  should  be  planted  at 
such  a  deptli  that  the  upper  parts  of  the  balls  of  earth  are 
below  the  rim  of  the  basket.  This  will  facilitate  the 
watering,  which  must  be  thoroughly  and  regularly  done. 
In  this  country  hanging  baskets  are  often  filled  with 
plants  suitable  for  outdoor  decoration  on  verandahs,  &c., 
during  the  summer ;  while  another  class  of  plants  is 
needed  for  those  baskets  which  are  to  be  kept  in  the  green- 
house. For  outdoor  culture  in  the  summer  the  subjects 
generally  employed  are  Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums,  Fuclisias, 
Petunias,  Trapoeolums  of  the  lobbianum  section,  Lobelia 
tenulor  and  drooping  Begonias  ;  while  in  the  greenhouse 
may,  of  flowering  plants,  be  grown  Achimenes,  Oxalis 
Bowieii,  Alonsoa  incisifolia  and  Lachenalias ;  of  foliage 
plants  Ferns  of  different  kinds,  especially  Maiden-hairs, 
Davallias  of  ditferent  sorts,  Nephrolepis  in  variety,  particu- 
larly some  of  the  newer  plumose  forms,  and  the  loose- 
growing  kinds  of  Pteris.  Some  of  the  forms  of  Selaginella 
are  also  very  pretty  grown  in  this  way,  while  a  very  flue 
basket  plant  is  Aspari^us  Sprengerii.     That  delightfn 


608 


THE     GARDEN. 


[December  11,  1909. 


little  trailing  Grass  known  in  gardens  as  Panicum  varie- 
gatum  is  seen  at  its  best  under  these  conditions. 

Glazing  a  greenhouse  (/>.  JUau).— In  glazing 
the  sides  and  ends  of  a  greenhouse  the  glass  may  be  butted 
instead  of  overlapping  ;  indeed,  this  is  the  method  gene- 
rally employed,  as  it  is  neater  in  every  way  and  eijually 
effectual.  Of  course,  it  is  very  necessary  that  the  glass  be 
cut  i|uitj  true,  so  tliat  the  squares  butt  closely  together. 
We  do  not  know  the  glass  to  which  you  refer,  but  ordinary 
21nz.  glass  is  very  suitable  for  greenhouses. 

Poinsettia  ^eaves  tumingr  yellow  {B.  J.  G.). 
The  Poinsettias  are  undoubtedly  suffering  from  a  severe 
check  of  some  kind,  but  what  that  is  we  are,  of  course, 
unable  to  say.  If  the  plants  have  been  grown  in  frames 
during  the  summer,  as  is  often  done,  they  may  have  been 
left  out  too  long  and  got  a  chill.  Such  a  check  might 
arise  from  cold  draughts,  drought,  an  excess  of  moisture 
or  too  cold  a  structure.  The  temperatures  given  by  you 
are  very  8uital>le  :  hut  does  SO''  represent  the  very  lowest 
night  temperature  ?  If  not,  a  low  night  temperature  may 
be  at  fault.  An  occasional  dose  of  weak  liquid  manure  is 
very  beneficial  in  the  case  of  the  Poinsettia. 

Tpeatment  of  Chlponia  ixifepa  (/?.  A.  L.).~ 
In  (irder  to  tiower  Chironia  ixifera  successfully  it  needs 
much  the  same  treatment  as  Heath?  and  Epaerises  ;  that  la 
to  say,  it  should  be  grown  in  the  greenhouse  during  the 
spring  and  early  summer,  then,  towards  the  latter  part  of 
the  summer,  it  may  be  stood  in  a  frame  or  out  of  doors  in 
order  to  ripen  the  new  growth  and  assist  in  the  formation 
of  flower-buds.  Lotus  peliorhynchus  requires  full  exposure 
to  the  sun  to  induce  it  to  flower  well.  We  have  seen  it 
planted  out  during  the  summer  on  a  sunny  rockwork, 
where  it  flowered  profusely.  The  long,  rambling  ehoots  of 
this  Lotus  may  be  trained  near  the  glass  in  the  sunny  part 
of  the  greenhouse,  or  it  may  be  grown  in  a  suspended 
basket  or  stood  on  a  shelf  or  some  elevated  position  and 
the  flexible  shoots  allowed  to  depend  therefrom  at  will. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Opigln  of  Rose  William  Allen  Rlchapd- 

son  {H.  R.  H'.).— Tiiis  Kose  was  dedicated  by  its  raiser, 
M.  Ducher,  to  a  wealthy  American  amateur;  hence  its 
English  sound.  The  original  Carnation  Souvenir  de  la 
Malmaison  was  given  this  name  in  memory  of  one  of  the 
castles  of  the  Empress  Josephine,  which  was  known  as  La 
Malmaison.  There  is  now  quite  a  family  of  Malmaison 
Carnations,  all  springing  from  the  original  blush  form. 

Lawn  manupe  and  vegretable  cultupe 
(TV.  E.  M.).—A  good  lawu  manure  to  apply  now  to  wash 
in  during  the  winter  is  basic  slag,  dressed  on  at  the  rate 
of  (>ib.  per  rod  area.  It  dissolves  slowly,  therefore  should 
be  applied  early.  Theu  in  March  add  a  dressing  of  sulphate 
of  ammonia,  :ilb.  per  rod  area,  finely  crushed.  This  washes 
in  and  dissolves  quickly.  Such  dressings  should  do  your 
lawn  good.  You  may,  if  preferred,  dress  it  with  Native 
Guano  (dried  sewage  sludge),  ground  fine.  This  costs  about 
63.  per  cwt.  and  should  be  applied  at  the  rate  of  about  2rilb. 
per  rod  area.  This  soon  washes  in  also.  You  may  give 
one  dressing  one  year  and  the  other  in  a  second  year ;  but 
lawns  on  poor  soil  need  to  be  well  manured  yearly.  If 
you  want  a  large  book  on  vegetables  you  should  get 
"Vegetables  for  Home  and  Exhibition,"  by  E.  Beckett, 
F.R.H.S.,  price  .^13.,  published  by  Simpkin,  Marshall, 
Hamilton  and  Co.,  London.  If  a  cheap  book  will  suit  you, 
then  get  "Vegetable  Culture,"  by  A.  Dean,  F.R.H.S., 
price  Is.,  published  by  Macmillau  and  Co..  London.  Any 
bookseller  should  be  able  to  get  these  for  you. 

Rust  on  GPapes  ((?/«/'(;■■).— Rust  on  Grapes  is  one 
of  those  mysterious  Vine  diseases  of  which  no  one  as  yet 
has  been  able  to  discover  the  real  cause.  It  is  a  fungoid 
growth,  like  the  rust  on  Wheat,  and  it  can  be  killed,  as 
mildew  can  be  killed,  by  the  application  of  sulphur,  but 
its  marks  cannot  be  obliterated.  From  our  experience  of 
its  attacks  we  are  convinced  that  the  most  frequent  cause 
of  its  presence  is  to  be  found  in  injudicious  ventilation  in 
spring,  when  the  wind  is  cold  and  the  young  berries  tender 
and  sensitive.  We  hold  that  no  front  air  should  be  given 
while  the  weather  is  cold  in  spring,  not  even  when  the 
sun  shines  strongly.  It  is  quite  possible  to  keep  the  tem- 
perature low  enough  by  opening  the  top  ventilators  alone. 

Bepbepis  Dapwlnil  as  a  hedge  plant 
{S.  M.  C).— Berberis  Darwinii  is  one  of  the  most  desirable 
of  evergreen  flowering  shrubs  suitable  for  a  hedge,  and  as 
you  speak  of  yours  as  supposed  to  be  nearly  evergreen,  we 
are  inclined  to  question  whether  the  plants  you  have  are 
really  Berberis  Darwinii.  If  so,  the  planting  must  be 
greatly  at  fault,  or  the  Lime  trees  referred  to  in  your 
letter  so  mb  the  ground  that  the  Barberries  are  practically 
starved.  If  you  mix  in  some  plants  of  Sweet  Briar,  you 
cannot  expect  them  to  do  much  unless  the  hedge  is 
replanted.  The  only  suggestion  we  can  make  is  to  take 
up  the  plants  of  Berberis  of  which  your  hedge  is  com- 
posed and  thoroughly  trench  the  ground  two  spits 
deep,  incorporating  some  manure  with  the  soiL  At 
the  same  time,  however  willing  we  are  to  assist  our 
readers,  a  question  such  as  yours  can  be  answered  in  a 
more  satisfactory  manner  by  a  personal  inspection,  so 
that  we  should  advise  you  to  get  a  practical  person  in 
your  neighbourhood  to  look  at  the  hedge  and  pass  his 
opinion  thereon. 

Names  of  fpuit,-©.  Bot/d— Cornish  Aromatic. 

Cnnibc  Hi7/.— Apple  Hoary  Morning. J.  F.  L.—\,  Golden 

Noble  ;  2,  Foster's  Seedling ;  3,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin  :   4, 

Rosemary  Russet;  5,  Boston  Russet. /.  Merrick. —Ve&v 

not  recognised. 
Names  of  plants,— G.  Boi/d.— Gomphrena  globosa. 

A.   E.   Buri/f.—l,    Juniperus    virginiana ;     2,   Thuya 

orientalis  variety  pendula;  3,  Picea  Morinda;  4,  Cupressus 

macrocarpa  lutea. J.  Merrick.— I,  Aspidium  capense  : 

2,  cannot  rtcojnise;  3,  Ceropegia  Woodli. A.  E.  Car- 
narvon.—Ca,\ceo\&Ti&  Favonli. 


SOCIETIES, 


THE    [HORTICULTT'RAL     CLUB. 

"Canai>a  of  To-dat." 

On  Tuesday,  the  23rd  ult.,  at  the  Hotel  Windsor,  after 
the  usual  monthly  dinner  of  this  club,  at  which  Mr.  C.  E. 
Shea  presided,  Mr.  Joseph  Cheal  gave  a  most  interest- 
ing lecture  on  "  Canada  of  To-day,  horticulturally  and 
generally,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,"  illustrating 
his  address  tiy  a  number  of  lantern  slides  nf  views  taken  by 
himself  rn  n>nte. 

Commencing  with  a  few  views  of  New  York  City  and 
of  the  Hudson  River,  he  quickly  passed  on  to  Canada 
itself  I'iti  Niagara,  giving  a  vivid  idea  as  he  procteded 
from  city  to  city  of  the  marvellous  rapidity  with  which 
those  cities  had  risen  to  importance— a  few  rude  sheds 
by  the  side  of  a  railway  track  being  transformed  in  a  very 
few  years  into  a  flourishing  and  populous  town,  with 
wide  tiioroughfares,  tram  lines,  and  all  the  paraphernalia 
of  civilisation  ;  views  of  the  wild  and  splendid  scenery  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  taken  in  the  train,  and  sometimes 
curiously  evidencing  the  sinuous  nature  of  the  track  by 
including  the  tail  end  of  the  same  train  at  almost  right 
angles,  interspersed  with  groups  of  settlers  and  natives, 
glimpses  of  fruit  farms  and  irrigation  works,  and  of  the 
associated  buildings,  Vfhicles,  and  other  details,  to  which 
a  constant  stream  of  anecdote  and  personal  recollections 
added  interest.  Mighty  trees  40  feet  to  50  feet  girth,  and 
estimated  at  aliout  200  feet  In  height,  were  shown  both 
growing  and  felled  in  connexion  with  the  vast  forests 
there,  the  views  of  which  showed  also  now  and  again  the 
dire  effects  of  forest  fires,  the  gaunt,  half-consumed  trunks 
standing  up,  ghastly  and  bare,  over  scores  of  sfiuare  miles. 
Mr.  Cheal  took  the  opportunity  when  there  of  visiting 
some  of  the  settlers  known  to  him  prior  to  their  leaving 
the  Old  Country.  Most  of  them  had  done  very  well,  and 
the  moral  undoubtedly  to  be  drawn  from  their  experiences 
is  that,  given  a  fair  constitution,  a  fund  of  common-sense, 
and,  above  all,  a  determination  to  work  hard,  there  was 
no  better  place  than  Canada  for  an  energetic  young  man 
with  a  little  capital  to  start  with.  Mr.  Oheal's  advice  in 
this  connexion  was  that  the  young  man  should  refrain 
from  investing  at  all  until  he  had  obtained  practical  expe- 
rience liy  hiring  himself  out  for  a  year  or  two,  and  so 
making  himself  thoroughly  and  personally  acquainted  with 
the  nature  of  the  climatic  and  general  conditions  ;  while, 
it  industrious  and  frugal,  his  original  capital  may  have 
been  increased  instead  of  being  swallowed  up  in  paying 
for  the  experience  essential  for  its  proper  utilisation.  One 
thing  is  certain— the  resources  <4  Canada  are  enormous 
as  regards  rich  and  fertile  land,  the  main  drawback 
being  a  low  rainfall  and  the  consequent  need  in  many 
parts  of  a  good  system  of  irrigation. 

The  lecture  was  followed  by  a  discussion,  in  which  Mr. 
Griffiths,  secretary  to  Lord  Strathcona,  High  Commissioner 
of  Canada,  while  confirming  Mr.  Cheal's  observations, 
added  some  interesting  data.  These  related  more  parti- 
cularly to  the  vast  areas  of  prairie  land  in  Canada,  which 
formed,  in  his  opinion,  one  of  the  greatest  future  fields  of 
agriculture  in  the  world.  Here  tliere  was  require"!  no 
laborious  clearance  nf  forest,  since  there  were  no  trees 
at  all.  The  whole  level  expanse  of  thousands  of  square 
miles  consisted  of  rich  alluvial  soil  2  feet  to  4  feet  deep, 
resting  on  clay,  and  only  requiring  to  be  "  tickled  with  a 
plough  to  laugh  with  a  harvest."  A  vivid  idea  of  this  con- 
dition of  affairs  was  shown  at  the  Canadian  Exhibition  at 
the  White  City  in  I'.IOS,  where  the  prairit  was  shown  in 
process  of  agricultural  development,  dotted  with  farms  in 
all  stages,  from  the  wooden  shanty  to  the  comfortable  family 
house,  auiiil  the  waving  crops  that  supported  them.  Mr. 
Griltiths  referred  to  the  contrast  between  the  monotony 
of  the  prairie  with  an  horizon  like  that  of  the  ocean  itself 
and  the  diversity  of  the  mountain  regions.  The  monotony, 
however,  of  the  prairie,  he  said,  was  but  a  temporary 
sentiment ;  its  magnitude  eventually  became  attractive 
and  the  dweller  therein  came  in  time  to  love  it  fully  as 
much  as  a  mountaineer  can  love  his  Alps.  ' 


LONDON   BRANCH   OF  THE   BRITISH   GARDENERS* 
ASSOCIATION. 

A  MOST  successful  smoking  concert  was  held  on  the  27th  ult. 
at  Can's  Restaurant.  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes  presided  overagather- 
ing  of  ninety-three  members,  who  thoroughly  appreciated 
the  excellent  programme  rendered  by  members  and  their 
friends.  One  of  the  objects  of  the  social  gathering  was  to 
provide  a  fitting  occasion  upon  which  to  present  a  testi- 
monial to  the  late  secretary.  Th's  took  the  form  of  three 
handsome  bronze  figures,  each  bearing  an  emblem  to 
represent  Commerce,  Horticulture  and  Agriculture.  The 
large  central  figure,  Commerce,  is  mounted  upon  a  polished 
marble  pedestal,  to  which  is  attached  a  brass  plate  bear- 
ing the  following  inscription:  "Presented  to  Mr.  A.  J. 
Hartless  by  members  of  the  London  Branch  of  the  British 
Gardeners'  Association  as  a  token  of  appreciation  for 
services  rendered  as  branch  secretary  from  l'.i07  to  1009." 
In  making  the  presentation  the  chairman  spoke  in  the 
highest  terms  of  the  zeal  and  devotion  witii  which  Mr. 
Hartless  had  carrie-^  out  his  secretarial  duties,  and  on 
behalf  of  himself  and'the  members  of  the  branch  he  wished 
Mr.  Hartless  ever>  succesi  in  the  new  sphere  of  labour  to 
which  he  has  beeu  ^^,t-^'Hlted.  Mr.  Hartless,  in  replying, 
said  that  words  failed  hira  to  adequately  express  his 
thanks  to  the  braiich  for  its  kind  appreciation  of  the 
slight  service  it  had  been  his  pleasure  to  render. 

*,*  Owing  to  the  demand  mi  our  space^  the  report  of  (he 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  is  held  over  until  next  week. 


National  Chpysanthemum 
Society's  Annual  Dinner,— The  annual 

diDoer  arranged  by  the  above  society  was  held 
in  the  Royal  Venetian  Chamber  of  the  Holborn 
Restaurant  on  Monday,  the  '29th  ult.,  the 
president,  Sir  Albert  Kaye  RoUit,  LL.  D. ,  1).  C.  L. , 
in  the  chair,  and  about  100  members  and  friends 
being  present.  After  the  usual  loyal  toast  and 
the  distribution  of  trophies,  cups  and  medals 
won  at  the  recent  show,  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes  proposed 
the  toast  of  *'  The  Donors  of  Special  Prizes,"  and 
said  that,  although  the  society  did  its  best  to 
give  prizes,  it  always  welcomed  the  speoial 
prizes,  which  did  much  to  stimulate  healthy 
competition  among  the  members.  Mr.  R.  F. 
FeltoD,  in  responding,  said  that  the  donors 
looked  on  it  as  a  privilege  to  be  allowed  to  present 
these  special  prizes.  Mr.  J,  W.  Moorman  next 
proposed  "  The  Exhibitors  and  Affiliated 
Societies,"  and  said  that  the  exhibitors  were 
most  important,  as  without  them  there  certainly 
could  not  be  a  show.  BDth  competitive  and  non- 
competitive exhibitors  were  therefore  most 
welcome.  They  liked  to  see  new  exhibitors,  and 
they  must  also  take  care  to  look  after  the  small 
exhibitor.  Without  the  non-competitive  exhibits 
he  did  not  know  what  the  society  could  do. 
As  regards  the  affiliated  societies,  there  were 
now  over  KKj  of  these  scattered  over  the 
whole  globe,  and  their  thoughts  that  night 
went  out  to  these  affiliated  soo'eties  in  far-off 
lands.  Mr,  H.  J.  Jones,  in  responding,  said 
he  had  been  an  exhibitor  at  the  society's  shows 
for  twenty  years,  and  during  that  time  had 
won  seventy  gold  medals.  He  said  they 
especially  wanted  the  small  exhibitors,  and  these 
must  be  looked  after.  They  should  all  put  their 
shoulders  to  the  wheel  and  do  all  they  could  to 
help  the  society.  The  mother  society  had  done 
good  work  in  holding  out  a  hand  to  the  affiliated 
societies.  Sir  Albert  Rollit,  in  proposing 
"The  National  Chrysanthemum  Society,"  said 
the  society  was  doing  a  great  national  work.  It 
had  been  established  over  fifty  years,  and  had  the 
advantage  of  having  on  its  committee  a  number 
of  experts,  who  were,  of  course,  indispensable. 
He  was  pleased  to  see  that  the  standard  regarding 
new  varieties  was  a  very  high  one.  The  show 
this  year  was  a  very  good  one.  The  trade 
exhibits  helped  materially  to  support  home 
industries,  and  market  blooms  were,  of  course,  of 
commercial  value.  He  hoped  the  society  would 
have  a  class  tor  these  another  year.  The  con- 
ferences and  literature  of  the  society  were 
important,  and  as  they  had  an  excellent  foreign 
corresponding  secretary  in  Mr.  Harman  Payne, 
they  were  able  to  carry  on  their  work  and  thereby 
spread  peace  in  other  countries.  The  Chry- 
santhemum filled  a  niche  in  the  season  of  Flora 
when  other  flowers  were  not  easily  obtainable, 
and  could  also  be  easily  grown.  They  should  all 
try  and  get  more  members,  as  organisation  was 
the  essential  attribute  of  all  great  movements. 
There  were  both  social  and  moral  advantages  to 
be  obtained  by  the  culture  of  flowers.  Mr. 
T.  Bevan  responded,  and  said  he  hoped  the 
time  was  not  far  distant  when  the  society  would 
again  be  able  to  hold  several  shows  each  year 
instead  of  one.  He  also  hoped  that  the  money 
would  be  forthcoming  to  enable  them  to  exhibit 
at  the  exhibition  in  Brussels  in  October  next,  as 
he  knew  that  home  growers  could  hold  their 
own  against  all  comers.  Other  toasts  were  "  The 
Chairman,*'  "The  Ladies  and  Visitors,"  "The 
Press"  and  **  The  Secretary."  The  musical  and 
other  arrangements  were  excellent  and  the 
tables  beautitully  decorated  under  the  supervision 
of  Mr.  R.  F.  Felton  of  Hanover  Square. 

"Country  Life  "for  December  11  contains, 
among  other  articles,  an  illustrated  account  of 
Combe  Abbey.— II.  ;  "Tale  of  Country  Life: 
The  Young  Days,"  by  Adam  Lorimer  ;  *'  In  the 
Garden  "  ;  "  By  a  Burmese  River  "  (illustrated) ; 
"  Wild  Country  Life." 


*♦*  The  Yearly  Subscription  to  Thb  Qabden  is :  Inland, 
6a,  6d, ;  Foreign,  8b.  9d* 


GARDEN. 


ssSf— ■"■^35^3- 


-^= 


^.- 


No.  1987.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


December  18,  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


The    National   Rose 

Trees  and  Shrubs 

Society      

609 

Rhoiodendron  Gill's 

The    National    Sweet 

Triumph 

615 

PeaSjciety       ..     .. 

609 

Libocedrus    macro- 

N  ITBa  OF  THE  WBBK 

lepig    

611) 

Forthcoming  events 

610 

COLO0RISO  Plate 

Royal    Scottish 

Two  new  single  Chry- 

Arborioultural 

santhemums  . .     . . 

61a 

Society     

610 

Greenhodse 

CORRHaPORDEROB 

610 

New  certificated 

Chrysanthemums 

615 

trees  

610 

A  newL^lio-Cabtleya 

616 

The  Winter  Cherry  as 

fligsed  pathways  . 

611 

a  standard      . .     . . 

616 

Cratfe^ui  Pyracantha 

Fdwer  garden 

L^laiidii 

611 

Sweet  Pea  chat 

617 

A  new  Rose  Acicia.. 

611 

Plants  for  water-side 

617 

A    beautiful    border 

Acanthus  spinosus  in 

Carnation 

611 

a  Camberley  garden 

617 

Freesia  Armstrongii 

6U 

GARDBNINS  for  BEaiNNBR-J 

Roses  and  mildew  .. 

611 

Garden  work  week  by 

New  plants 

611 

week 

618 

Books     

Gil 

Plants  for  room  deco- 
ration    and     their 

OARDBBIHQ  OF  THB  WEJiK 

culture    

61 S 

For   the    South   and 
South  Midlands    .. 

61?, 

The  Town  Garden    . 

619 

For  the  North    and 

Ahswbbb     to     Cobre 

North  MIdlandj     . 

61? 

SFORDBtllS 

FRurr  Garden 
American  blight  and 

Flower  garden  .. 
Trees  and  shrubs     . . 
Greenhouse 

did 

am 

canker    in     Apple 

Rose  garden 

m\ 

Kitchen  garden 

621 

John  Gerard. -I.    .     .. 

613 

Fruit  garden     . .     . . 

621 

Protecting    evergreens 

Miscellaneous  . .     . . 

622 

from  wind 

614 

Sooieties      

622 

I  LliUSTB 

ATlONS. 

A  vase  of  a  white  seedling  Ca 

rnation      

613 

6U 

Himalayan  Rhododendron  Gi 

Il's  Triumph 

615 

Two  new  single  Chrysanthem 

urns           . .     Coloured  plate 

The  new  Laelio-Cattleya 

Neltt 

lorpe  Beauclerk     . .     . . 

616 

Acanthus  spinosus  in  a 

jamb 

erley  garden 

617 

Plants  for  room  decorat 

on  ai 

id  their  culture     ..    618 

619 

BDITORIAL.    NOTICES. 

Every  department  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THB 
Q-ARDGN,  a/nd  the  Editor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questiojis 
relating  to  matters  upon  which  they  wish  advice  from 
aompetent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  make 
the  *' ATiswers  to  Correspondents"  columns  a  conspicuous 
feature,  and,  when  queries  are  printed,  he  hopes  readers 
will  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  of  their  assistance. 
All  coTmnunications  must  be  written  clearly  on  one  side 
only  of  the  paper,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Q^ABDEN,  accompanied  by  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs,  anrticles  and  notes, 
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The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
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Offloes:  to,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C> 


THE    NATIONAL    ROSE 
SOCIETY. 

Annual    Meeting. 

THE  annual  meeting  of  this  society  is 
one  of  the  most  important  and  pleasant 
events  of  the  horticultural  year.  It 
is  a  society  composed  largely  of 
amateurs  who  are  imbued  with  a  love 
of  the  flower  that  has  given  beauty  and  fragrance 
to  the  English  garden  ;  and  on  the  oooasion  of 
this  meeting  there  was  the  same  enthusiasm  as 
in  the  years  gone  by.  The  president  is  the  Rev. 
F.  Page-Roberts,  a  rosarian  who  has  accomplished 
much  in  the  tournaments  of  flowers  that  take 
place  yearly  at  the  Rose  exhibitions.  After  the 
reading  of  the  minutes,  the  business  of  the  after- 
noon began.  The  report  of  the  oommittTee  and 
financial  statement  for  1909  are  most  satis- 
faotory.  We  predicted  a  few  years  ago  that  the 
membership  of  the  society  would  reach  a  total  of 
5,000  ;  that  has  not  been  so  far  accomplished,  but 
the  number  is  3,795,  which  is  remarkable  evidence 
of  the  love  of  the  Rose  in  this  country. 

The  meeting  was  held  at  the  Westminster 
Palace  Hotel,  and  was  devoted  to  various 
matters  dealing  with  the  present  position  of  the 
society.  Several  alterations  were  made  in  the 
rules,  of  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  give  details 
here,  these  alterations  being  for  the  most  part, 
in  a  sense,  technical  and  practical. 

The  society  has  developed  enormously  and  is 
managed  entirely  by  trade  growers  and  amateurs ; 
no  one  receives  payment  for  the  services  rendered. 
The  alterations  in  the  rules,  formulated  by  Dr. 
Williams,  had  become  neoessiry  to  meet  present 
requirements  and  to  raise  the  society,  in  a  sense, 
to  a  higher  level.  Thus  ' '  the  general  committee 
of  the  society"  is  now  "the  council,"  and  other 
matters  were  dealt  with  that  will  place  the 
society  on  an  even  surer  foundation.  Dr. 
Williams,  who  is  responsible  for  the  alterations, 
has  rendered  a  great  service  to  the  society  ;  but 
all  the  members  take  a  keen  interest  in  its 
management.  It  is  always  a  pleasure  to  attend  a 
meeting  of  this  society  and  to  watch  the  business 
way  in  which  it  is  managed.  Mr.  E,  Mawley, 
the  hon.  secretary,  has  earned  the  gratitude 
of  all  rosarians.  He  has  occupied  the  position 
for  thirty-three  years,  at  one  time  with  the  Rev. 
H.  D'ombrain,  and  this  long  and  devoted  service 
was  warmly  recognised  by  the  meeting.  Mr. 
Mawley's  work  for  the  society  has  been  remark- 
able ;  and  in  paying  this  tribute  we  are  not 
forgetful  of  the  services  rendeied  not  only  by 
the  president  and  ofBcers,  but  also  by  the  hon. 
treasurer,  Mr.  G.  W.  Cook.  The  management 
of  a  society  composed  of  nearly  4,000  members, 
and  still  progressing,  demands  enthusiasm  and 


personal  attention,  and  these  are  willingly 
given  to  promote  a  love  for  the  Rose  in  its  various 
phases. 

The  publications  are  of  much  interest,  and 
they  have  had  a  great  influence  in  developing 
the  society.  They  have  been  compiled  by  special 
expert  committees  and  are  sent  to  each  member. 
No  society  that  we  are  acquainted  with  gives  so 
much  in  return  for  so  small  a  subscription — one 
guinea  a  year — and  now  there  has  been  added 
the  "Rose  Annual,"  which  is  a  record  of  the 
yeir's  work,  with  invaluable  advice  for  those 
who  wish  to  excel  in  the  cultivation  of  the  Queen 
of  Flowers. 

After  the  usual  vote  of  thanks  to  the  officers 
and  committee,  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton,  a 
vice-president  of  the  society,  was  presented  with 
the  Dean  Hole  Medal  in  recognition  of  his  devotion 
to  the  society,  his  skill  as  an  exhibitor,  and  of 
the  value  of  his  recent  work  upon  "  Roses."  Mr. 
Pemberton  has  achieved  remarkable  success  in 
the  exhibition  tent,  and  we  were  delighted  to 
know  that  the  beautiful  gold  medal,  in  memory 
of  one  of  the  greatest  rosarians  of  his  genera- 
tion— S.  Reynolds  Hole,  Dean  of  Rochester — 
hid  been  so  worthily  bestowed.  It  is  such  men 
as  the  recipient  that  have  made  the  society  what 
it  is — a  great  organisation  for  promoting  the 
cultivation  of  the  Rose.  A  warm  tribute  was 
paid  to  Miss  Pemberton,  who  has  assisted  her 
brother  so  heartily  in  winning  the  many  triumphs 
in  the  show  tent.  The  meeting  closed  with  a 
vote  of  thanks  to  the  president,  to  the  secretary 
and  to  the  hon.  treasurer,  Mr.  G.  W.  Cook,  who 
presented  the  balance-sheet,  which  was  most 
satisfactory.  The  society  is  in  a  strong  financial 
position. 

After  the  meeting,  in  place  of  the  usual  dinner 
a  conversazione  was  held,  at  which  the  president 
gave  an  interesting  address.  The  room  was 
kindly  decorated,  and  beautifully  too,  by  Mr. 
Felton  of  Hanover  Square,  chiefly  with  Roses ; 
but  we  are  afraid  this  afternoon  gathering  was 
not  a  success.  The  room  was  uncomfortably 
crowded,  very  hot,  and  the  charming  music  was 
drowned  by  the  din  of  conversation.  We  hope 
the  time-honoured  dinner  will  be  restored. 


THE      NATIONAL     SWEET 
PEA     SOCIETY. 

The  annual  general  meeting  of  the  members  of 
the  above  society  was  held  at  the  Hotel  Windsor, 
Victoria  Street,  Westminster,  on  the  lOth  inst. , 
Mr.  Horace  J.  Wright  presiding  and  nearly  100 
members  being  present.  After  the  minutes  of 
the  previous  meeting  had  been  taken  as  read,  the 
secretary  read  the  report  of  the  committee  for 
1909,  which  was  of  a  most  favourable  character. 
The  number  of  members  up  to  date  is  938  and 
affiliated  societies  101  a<i  compared  respectively 


610 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  December  18,  1909. 


with  799  and  51  last  year,  so  that  substantial 
progress  has  been  made  in  this  respect.  No 
jirovineial  show  will  be  held  next  year,  but  the 
London  show  will  be  for  two  days,  July  12  and  13. 
The  fiimnoial  positiun  is  sound,  the  society  having 
a  balaLce  in  hand  of  £84  18s.  9d.  The  chair- 
man, in  an  able  speech,  moved  the  adoption  of 
the  report,  and  this  was  seconded  by  Mr.  Alex. 
I^ean,  V.M  H. ,  who  suggested  that  the  society 
m'ght  institute  a  duplicate  set  of  trials  in  the 
Midlands  or  North.  Mr.  N.  N.  Sherwood 
V.M.H.,  was  unanimously  elected  president  for 
the  ensuing  year  and  Mr.  Edward  Sherwood 
hon.  treasurer.  Commander  Humphrey  being 
elected  chairman  of  committee.  Mr.  Cuthbert- 
son  proposed  the  re-election  of  the  hon.  secre- 
tary, Mr.  C.  H.  Curtis,  and  proposed  that  he  be 
given  the  honorarium  of  £32  lOs.  plus  the  £20  in 
the  bilance-sheet  for  office,  &o. ,  this  being 
cirried.  The  committee  were  re-elected  with  the 
exception  of  fourteen  who  had  not  attended  a 
meeting  during  the  past  year,  four  of  these  being 
subsequently  re-elected  on  account  of  services 
rfndered  in  other  ways.  In  addition,  Messrs. 
H.  H.  Lees,  F.  H.  Chapman,  Chalker,  Herbert 
Jones,  Leek  and  H.  A.  Perkins  were  elected  to 
the  committee. 

A  new  rule  was  then  proposed  and  carried, 
this  being  as  follows:  "That  members  of  com- 
mittee who  make  fewer  than  two  attendances  at 
committees  during  the  year  shall  not  be  eligible 
for  re-eleution  the  following  year."  It  was  also 
decided  that  all  books  and  documents  of  the 
society  not  actually  in  use  be  placed  for  safety  in 
a  safe  deposit. 

In  the  evening  a  conference  was  held  at  the 
Hotel  Windsor,  Mr.  Horace  J.  Wright  presiding 
nnd  between  sixty  and  seventy  members  being 
present.  Mr.  William  Cuthbertson,  J. P.,  read 
a  carefully  compiled  paper  on  "The  Imperfect 
Seeding  of  Waved  Sweet  Peas."  Mr.  Cuthbert- 
son explained  in  a  most  lucid  manner  and  by 
means  of  illustrations  the  structure  of  a  Sweet 
Pea  flower,  and  compared  an  ordinary  unwaved 
flower  with  one  of  the  Spencer  type.  The  female 
organ  of  the  latter,  he  said,  was  pushed  out  at 
an  early  stage  beyond  the  stamens  or  male 
organs,  and,  consequently,  the  chances  of  self- 
fertilisation  were  remote.  After  describing  the 
germination  of  the  pollen-grain,  he  dealt  with 
the  possibility  of  pollination  by  the  agency 
of  insects,  and  said  he  did  not  think  this  was 
done  in  many  instances,  giving  his  reasons  for 
so  thinking.  In  summing  up,  he  said  :  "  I  must 
put  as  the  first  and  foremost  cause  of  imperfect 
seeding  in  Spencer  varieties — the  open  keel  in 
conjunction  with  the  protruding  stigma,  other- 
wise imperfect  fertilisation.  Then  the  extreme 
sensitiveness  of  the  type  to  adverse  weather 
conditions.  Its  very  shape,  the  large  waved 
standard,  makes  it  much  more  sensitive  than  the 
old  type."  An  excellent  discussion  was  opened 
by  Mr.  Charles  Foster,  who  said  that  he  thought 
they  would  find  the  Spencer  forms  altogether 
more  succulent  and  the  flowers  of  abnormal  pro- 
portions, and  he  believed  these  affected  the 
fertility  of  this  type.  Many  Spencers  seeded 
well  in  dry  weather,  and  also  when  the  standard 
and  wings  were  clipped  oflF.  Inbreeding,  too, 
was  sure  to  affect  fertility  sooner  or  later.  What 
they  wanted  was  a  greater  degree  of  hardiness 
in  the  Spencer  varieties.  Mr.  William  Deal  said 
that  even  in  a  normal  season  the  Spencers  did 
not  seed  so  well  as  the  plain  or  unwaved  varie- 
ties ;  he  had  noticed  that  bees  had  been  very 
prevalent  in  the  Spencer  varieties  this  year.  Mr. 
R.  Sydenham  said  that  we  may  often  get  a  plant 
on  which  a  few  blooms  get  crossed  and  the 
others  remained  true.  The  humming-birds  in 
California  visited  the  Spencer  forms  more  than 
the  others  ;  he  thought  each  pod  from  a  plant 
and  its  progeny  should  be  kept  separate  for  two 
or  three  years. 

Mr.  Lumley  thought  the  Rose-cutter  bee 
assisted  pollination,  and  believed  overfeeding 
was  a  cause  of  non-seeding.  Mr.  J.  Fraser 
said  that  under  normal  conditions  the  Sweet  Pea 


was  self-fertilising,  but  the  Spencers  were 
abnormal  forms.  Mr.  F.  W.  Harvey  said  he 
believed  the  Spencer  varieties,  being  more 
highly  developed,  were  trying  to  shape  them- 
selves BO  that  cross-fertilisation  should  be 
necessary,  and  so  infuse  stamina  into  the  plants. 
Mr.  Ireland  said  some  experiments  made  at 
Mark's  Tey  resulted  in  plants  grown  on  un- 
manured  soil  giving  no  seeds  at  all,  and  autumn- 
sown  plants  did  not  produce  as  much  seed  as 
spring-sown  ;  but  this  must  not  be  taken  as 
conclusive,  because  he  had  seen  the  opposite 
happen.  Mr.  E.  F.  Hawes  said  that  he  thought 
high  breeding  was  a  cause  of  non-seeding.  Mr. 
Weeks  was  convinced  that  bees  did  assist  in 
crossing  Spencer  Sweet  Peas.  After  Mr. 
Cuthbertson  had  briefly  replied, 

Mr.  W.  J.  Unwin,  Histon,  Cimbridge,  read  a 
most  interesting  and  carefully-thought-out  paper 
on  "Sweet  Pea  Names  and  Naming."  At  the 
outset  he  said  he  did  not  propose  to  deal 
particularly  with  the  naming  of  Sweet  Peas, 
but  rather  to  outline  a  scheme  whereby  growers 
might  be  safeguarded  in  making  their  selections 
of  distinct  varieties.  The  society  ought  to 
debar  unfixed  varieties  from  being  staged  in  any 
of  the  competitive  classes  at  the  London  show. 
He  also  thought  that  a  more  detailed  account 
should  be  given  by  the  society  of  all  fixed  stocks. 
At  the  preEent  time  the  too-much-alike  list  of 
varieties  was  of  little  help  to  anyone,  but  with 
the  proposed  detailed  report  on  fixed  stocks 
•yould  prove  most  useful.  As  there  is  such  a 
marked  difference  in  the  colour  of  many  varieties 
as  seen  growing  and  when  seen  in  a  bunch,  Mr. 
Unwin  suggested  that  a  bunch  of  twelve  sprays 
of  every  fixed  stock  (new  and  old)  be  brought  from 
the  trials  and  staged  at  the  London  show  under 
numbers,  there  to  be  judged  for  colour  effect  and 
size  ;  after  judging,  each  bunch  to  be  named  or 
numbered  as  sent  to  the  trials.  This  would  prove 
a  great  attraction  txt  the  show.  Mr.  Unwin,  in 
coLclusion,  drew  attention  to  the  fact  that  a 
seedsman,  who  was  characteristic  of  several, 
was  offering  seeds  of  novelties  certificated  by  the 
society  last  year,  and  which  the  raisers  had  not 
yet  let  seeds  go  out  of  their  hands.  If  possible, 
something  ought  to  be  done  to  prevent  this. 

An  excellent  discussion  was  opened  by  Mr. 
C.  Foster,  who  said  that  many  of  the  so-called 
new  varieties  were  not  new  at  all,  but  were 
simply  improved  selections  from  old  varieties. 
Mr.  Cuthbertson  said  the  society  was  determined 
to  do  all  that  it  could  to  eliminate  synonyms. 
He  thought  the  offering  of  novelties  by  seedsmen 
before  the  raisers  had  parted  with  any  seeds  was 
very  serious  indeed.  Mr.  T.  Stevenson  said  he 
was  greatly  in  favour  of  putting  up  bunches  of 
fixed  varieties  from  the  trials  at  the  show.  Mr. 
Clegg  thought  it  would  be  a  good  plan  to  list  in 
the  "  Annual "  all  those  certificated  novelties 
which  had  not  yet  been  put  into  commerce  by 
the  raisers.  The  conference  closed  with  votes 
of  thanks  to  Mr.  Cuthbertson,  Mr.  Unwin  and 
the  chairman. 


NOTES    OF   THE    WEEK. 

FORTHCOMING   EVENTS 

January  11. — Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Meeting  of  Committees,  12  noon. 

Royal  Scottish  Arboplcultupal 
Society. — The  council  of  the  Royal  Scottish 
Arboricultural  Society  has  had  under  considera- 
tion a  proposal  to  keep  a  list  of  consulting 
foresters  for  the  benefit  of  proprietors  who  do 
not  at  present  employ  a  trained  forester,  but  who 
might,  on  payment  of  a  reasonable  fee,  receive 
the  services  of  a  competent  man  when  they 
desired  advice.  The  proposal  was  viewed  favour- 
ably and  a  committee  appointed  to  further  con- 
sider it.  Several  new  members  were  also  elected 
at  the  meeting,  which  was  held  on  December  3, 
and  a  recommendation  to  the  society  was  agreed 
upon    that    Mr.    A.     T.     Gillandera,    forester. 


Alnwick  Castle,  be  elected  an  honorary  member 
on  the  occasion  of  the  first  vacancy  in  recognition 
of  the  value  of  his  recently  published  work  on 
forest  entomology. 

Edlnburgii  Seed  Trade  Assist- 
ants' dinner. — This  annual  event,  which  is 
looked  forward  to  with  much  interest  by  the 
members  of  the  trade,  was  held  on  the  evening  of 
December  3  in  the  Carlton  Hotel,  Edinburgh. 
There  was  a  large  attendance,  upwards  of  100 
gentlemen  forming  the  company.  The  chair 
was  taken  by  Mr.  William  Newton,  who, 
after  the  usual  loyal  and  patriotic  toasts, 
proposed  "The  Seed  Trade  Assistants."  Mr. 
Newton  expressed  the  gratification  he  felt  at 
occupying  the  chair  on  such  an  occasion.  As 
one  of  the  number  of  assistants  formerly,  and 
also  as  a  guest  within  recent  years,  it  gave 
him  much  pleasure  to  be  present  in  the  capacity 
of  chairman  and  also  to  propose  the  toast.  Mr. 
Newton  referred  to  the  care,  thought  and  atten- 
tion required  by  the  seed  trade,  and  spoke  highly 
of  the  tone  prevailing  among  the  assistants  in  the 
Edinburgh  seed  trade.  The  toast  was  ably 
responded  to  by  Mr.  J.  L.  Forbes.  The  other 
leading  toast  was  that  of  "  The  Nursery  and 
Seed  Trade,"  which  was  entrusted  to  Mr.  John 
Anderson,  who  in  an  able  speech  referred  to 
the  importance  of  the  trade,  the  growing 
interest  taken  in  horticulture  and  the  in- 
creasing number  of  persons  who  were  supplied 
by  the  trade.  He  also  referred  to  the  im- 
portance of  honesty  and  uprightness  on  the 
part  of  the  trade  and  of  the  assistants  engaged  in 
it.  Mr.  J.  Grieve  replied  in  his  wonted  genial 
manner.  Other  toasts  were  also  submitted,  and  a 
full  and  excellent  musical  programme  was  carried 
through.  The  evening's  proceedings  were  most 
successful,  and  the  seed  trade  assistants  are  to 
be  congratulated  on  the  success  of  this  event. 

Presentation     to     Mr.     Donald 

Conning^. — To  mark  the  esteem  in  which 
he  is  held,  and  in  recognition  of  the  completion 
of  his  semi-jubilee  as  gardener  at  Lewis  Castle, 
Stornoway,  Mr.  Donald  Conning  was  the  reci- 
pient of  a  testimonial,  which  was  presented  to 
him  the  other  day.  The  subscribers  assembled- 
in  the  Royal  Hotel,  Stornoway,  exProvost  D. 
Smith  occapying  the  chair  and  making  the  pre- 
sentation. In  handing  the  gift,  which  consisted 
of  a  purse  containing  the  sum  of  £26,  to  Mr. 
Conning,  Mr.  Smith  made  a  pleasing  reference 
to  the  high  esteem  in  which  Mr.  Conning  was 
held  and  to  the  appreciation  of  his  work  at 
Lewis  Castle,  work  which  is  abundantly  evident 
to  the  public,  who  are  allowed  to  visit  the  magni- 
ficent grounds  under  his  care. 


CORRESPONDENCE 

(The  Editor  is  not  respoiisibh  jor  the    opiniont 
expressed  by  correyxmdents.  J 

The  spraying:  of  fruit  trees.— In 

your  issue  for  November  27,"  X.  Y.  Z.,"  in  his  care- 
ful and  interesting  summarising  on  the  papers  and 
statements  made  at  the  Spraying  Conference  at 
the  Horticultural  Hall  in  October,  1908,  asks  me 
to  name  the  wash  I  have  found  so  useful  for 
applying  in  the  early  stages  to  keep  aphis, 
mildew,  &c.,  in  check  before  any  trace  of  insects 
could  be  found.  The  insecticide  I  then  referred 
to  was  that  made  by  the  Paddock  Wood  firm, 
and  known  formerly  as  Abol.  Of  late,  however, 
the  firm  has  put  on  the  market  an  improved  kind 
under  the  name  of  White's  Superior.  I  may  be 
permitted  to  say  that  during  the  past  year  Roses 
sprayed  when  the  young  growths  had  advanced, 
renewing  the  application  in  ten  days  or  a  fortnight 
for  three  times,  kept  the  growth  clean  of  aphis  and 
mildew,  although  a  plant  of  Celine  Forestier  was 
growing  in  a  most  draughty  place.  The  same 
was  applied  to  Morello  Cherries  growing  on  a 
north  wall  before  any  aphis  could  be  seen,  and 
they  remained  clean  all  the  season.  Soft-wooded 
plants,  such  as  Cinerarias,  can  be  kept  quite  clean 


December;,  18,  1909.  J 


THE     GARDEN. 


611 


by  this  early  spraying,  and  this  is  easily  accom- 
plished by  using  the  Abol  syringe  with  its  bent 
nozzle,  when  every  part  can  be  reached.  During 
the  past  autumn,  having  plants  of  Primula 
kewensis  infested  with  fly  through  inattention, 
I  applied  this  wash  with  the  bent  nozzle  of  this 
syringe,  and  removed  all  the  insects  with  two 
applications.  I  then  soaked  a  pan  of  plants  in 
the  solution  I  had  used  on  both  occasions  to  note 
its  effect,  and  now  (early  in  December)  they  are  in 
the  most  healthy  condition,  thus  showing  the 
non-poisonous  nature  of  the  wash.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  over-estimate  the  value  of  early 
spraying,  and  it  should  be  considered,  as  Mr. 
Getting  puts  it,  as  an  insurance.  To  point  this 
out  induced  me  to  give  my  experience  with  this 
insecticide  after  a  continual  use  from  its  first 
being  sent  out,  both  under  glass  and  in  the  open 
garden. — J.  Crook,  Gamberley. 

Rock  plants  on  flagged  path- 
ways.— Few  things  in  gardens  seem  to  me 
to  be  more  undesirable  than  the  practice  of 
planting  carpet  or  rock  plants,  Dianthuses,  Saxi- 
frages, Sedums,  Aubrietias  and  myriads  of  other 
things  between  the  flag-stones  which  form  path- 
ways beneath  pergolas  or  in  various  parts  of  the 
garden.  My  sense  of  tidiness  is  revolted  when  I 
see  such,  especially  when  having  been  all  one's 
life  instructed  or  instructing  others  to  keep  all 
walks  clean,  free  from  weeds,  moss  or  any  young 
vegetation,  and  as  smooth  and  as  pleasant  to 
walk  upon  as  possible.  The  walking  on  one  of 
these  fantastically  planted  flagged  footpaths  re- 
sembles crossing  a  stream  on  disconnected  stones, 
the  greatest  care  being  needed  to  step  rightly. 
He  would  be  a  Philistine  indeed  who  would 
ruthlessly  tread  a  plank,  however  dwarf  and 
humble  ;  yet  the  specified  purpose  of  the  walk  is 
that  it  shall  be  freely  walked  upon.  Does  not 
this  form  of  planting  lead  to  a  species  of  garden- 
ing run  mad  ?  Next  to  a  perfectly  smooth  grass 
walk,  nothing  can  excel  one  of  yellow  gravel 
toned  in  colour  and  perfectly  smooth. — A.  D. 

CpatsBgus  Pypacantha  Lelandll. 
A  few  days  since  I  saw  on  the  shrubbery  mar- 
gining the  beautiful  promenade  that  adjoins  the 
Thames  at  Surbiton  three  large  bushes  of  the 
Cratfegus  so  richly  and  so  perfectly  fruited  that 
they  glowed  in  the  declining  sunlight  like  veri- 
table burning  bushes.  How  much  more  rich  in 
colour  are  the  berries  of  this  Lelandii  form. 
These  shrubs  were  not  in  luxuriant  growth,  and 
it  does  seem  as  if  too  great  luxuriance  did  not 
tend  to  such  abundant  fruiting.  Either,  c»uld 
the  berries  be  made  to  show  their  true  colour, 
would  have  made  a  beautiful  picture.  Would 
that  we  had  in  our  shrubberies — usually  so  dull 
and  heavy  in  winter — more  of  these  berried 
shrubs.  We  get  abundant  fruits  on  Auoubas  now, 
but  they  are  so  largely  hidden.  Pernettyas 
fruit  finely  on  peaty  or  boggy  soil,  but  they  do 
not  give  rich,  bright  colours.  Cotoneasters  and 
Berberis  help  somewhat ;  but  amid  the  wealth  of 
leaf  and  flowering  shrubs  we  have  there  is  ample 
room  for  more  wmter  fruiting  shrubs. — A.  I). 

A  new  Rose  Aeacla.— Robinia  Kelseyii 
is  closely  allied  to  R.  hispida,  but  especially  the 
smooth-stemmed  variety  of  it,  for  the  subject 
under  notice  has  no  bristles  on  the  stems  and 
branches.  It  was  discovered  and  introduced  to 
cultivation  in  America  in  1901,  reaching  this 
country  in  1903.  It  flowered  in  1908  and  again 
this  year,  during  the  first  half  of  June,  in  different 
parts  of  the  gardens  at  Kew,  for  there  are 
already  many  flowering  plants  a  few  feet  in 
height.  The  plant  makes  a  shrub  3  feet  to 
10  feet  in  height,  and  differs  from  R.  hispida  in 
having  narrower  leaflets  and  smaller  flowers  of  a 
pleasing  rosy  pink.  The  young  leaves  are  tinted 
with  purple,  which  adds  to  the  beauty  of  this 
hardy  subject.  It  has  not  the  rank  growth  of 
R.  hispida,  and  the  branches  are,  therefore,  not 
so  liable  to  get  snapped  by  the  wind.  The  Pea- 
shaped  flowers  are  freely  produced  in  short 
racemes  of  five  to  eight,  and  are  not  hidden  by 
the  foliage,  which  starts  into  growth  late  in 
spring,  like  that  of  its  congeners.     It  is  readily 


increased  by  grafting  on  the  roots  of  the  common 
or  False  Acacia  (R.  Pseudacacia),  so  that  its  easy 
propagation,  neat  habit  and  handsome  flowers 
should  ensure  a  speedy  distribution  in  British 
gardens.  The  fruits  are  rather  conspicuously 
covered  with  red  glandular  hairs,  and  when  the 
bush  is  well  established  and  flowering  freely,  its 
summer  beauty  will  be  considerably  prolonged. 
It  may  be  planted  in  beds  and  masses  on  the 
grass  or  in  mixed  shrubberies. — J.  F. 

A  beautiful  bopdep  Capnation.— 

Good  border  Carnations  do  not  abound,  although 
there  are  many  varieties  that  are  regarded  with 
favour  for  garden  embellishment.  They  are 
reputedly  good,  but  when  one  gives  them  a  pro- 
minent position  in  the  border,  most  growers  know 
only  too  well  how  very  disappointing  they  often 
are  in  this  position.  Prominence  is  given  to  the 
variety  under  notice  because  of  its  beautiful 
white  blossoms,  which,  I  believe,  are  developed 
in  profusion.  It  is  a  seedling  raised  by  Miss  E. 
H.  Ekins  of  St.  Albans,  Herts,  who  is  a  very 
enthusiastic  amateur  gardener  and  who  showed 
the  result  of  her  cultural  skill  at  the  first  exhi- 
bition held  under  the  auspices  of  The  Gabdex 
in  .July,  190S.  I  think  this  lady  should  give  this 
new  variety  a  name  and  that  it  should  be  distri- 
buted without  delay. — D.  B.  C. 

Fpeesia  Apmstpongli.— Although  not 

actually  stated,  your  correspondent,  Joseph 
Jacob,  page  591,  suggests  that  Freesia  Arm- 
strongii  first  flowered  with  Mr.  C.  G.  van 
Tubergen  of  Haarlem  in  1902,  and  was  then 
named  Freesia  Armstrongii.  If  the  writer  will 
refer  to  The  Garden  for  May  25,  1901,  he  will 
find  this  species  therein  figured,  and  the  follow- 
ing note  over  the  well-known  initials  of  "  W.  W. " : 
' '  A  Freesia  in  which  the  dominating  colour  is 
rich  rosy  pink  is  a  welcome  addition  to  spring- 
flowering  greenhouse  bulbs.  Such  a  plant  has 
been  in  cultivation  at  Kew  for  about  three  years, 
and  this  year  it  has  displayed  itself  to  the  full. 
In  general  characters  it  resembles  the  true  Freesia 
refracta  (aurea),  differing  only  in  the  absence 
of  purple  from  the  leaf  bases,  and  in  the  colour 
of  the  flowers.  The  tallest  scapes  are  20  inches 
high,  with  three  or  four  branches,  the  racemes  bent 
almost  at  right  angles,  and  each  bearing  from  six 
to  eight  flowers,  set  at  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart, 
1  inch  long,  exactly  the  same  in  shape  as  those 
of  F.  refracta,  the  tube  white,  with  a  splash  of 
orange  at  the  base,  the  segments  heavily  mar- 
gined or  laced  with  rich  rose  in  which  there  is  a 
suspicion  of  purple.  The  plants  flower  at  the 
same  time  as  F.  refracta,  that  is,  about  a  month 
later  than  the  larger  flowered  F.  alba ;  some  of 
them  are  still  in  flower.  May  14.  Kew  is 
indebted  for  this  plant  to  Mr.  W.  Armstrong  of 
Port  Elizabeth,  who  found  it  wild  at  Humans- 
dorp,  Cape  Colony.  It  has  ripened  seeds  at 
Kew,  and  the  seedlings  are  exactly  like  their 
parent."  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  "  W.  W." 
refers  to  the  popular  white-flowered  form  as 
Freesia  alba,  not  F.  refracta  alba,  which  fact 
has  been  before  now  pointed  out  in  the  pages  of 
The  Garden.— H.  P. 
Roses  and  mildew.— The  subject  of 

mildew  on  Roses  is  one  of  such  general  interest 
that  even  the  experience  of  the  grower  of  a  few 
Roses  in  a  suburban  garden  may  be  useful.  This 
year,  with  me,  the  Roses  to  suffer  most  were 
Griiss  an  Teplitz,  Mme.  Pierre  Coehet,  E.  Veyrat 
Hermanos  and  Mme.  Hector  Leuilliot,  all  grown 
on  a  south  wall.  Lady  Waterlow,  Billiard  et 
Barr6  and  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux,  in  the  same 
situation,  were  untouched.  In  a  Rose  border  in 
the  open.  Queen  of  Spain,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay 
and  Celia  were  rather  badly  attacked  ;  Lady 
Ashtown,  George  Laing  Paul  and  Betty  slightly 
so.  Roses  which  I  have  so  far  found  to  be 
quite  free  are  M.  Joseph  Hill,  Paul  Led6,  Mrs. 
Aaron  Ward,  Mme.  Pol  Varin-Bernier  (a  charm- 
ing little  Rose  which  deserves  ts  be  better  known), 
Marquise  Litta,  Prince  de  Bulgarie  and  Amateur 
Teyssier.  Of  the  dozen  or  so  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
grown,  Heinrioh    Sohultheis,  Mrs.    John  Laing 


and  John  Stuart  Mill  are  nearly  always  sufferers. 
Hugh  Dickson,  Ulrich  Brunner  and  J.  B.  Clark 
have  been  free  from  the  scourge.  Mrs.  Blair 
(page  574)  seems  to  have  found  remedies  of  little 
avail ;  but  I  have  certainly  found  that  Mo-Eific, 
followed  by  Cyllin  Soft  .Soap,  as  recommended 
last  year  by  a  writer  in  The  Garden,  will  very 
quickly  cheek  an  attack. —W.  St.  P.  B.,  Bedford. 

Mildew    is   certainly    one    of    the    most 

difficult  diseases  to  combat  among  Roses,  whether 
it  be  under  glass  or  in  the  open  ground.  We 
can  avoid  some  of  its  chief  causes  and  fight 
against  the  results  of  mildew  to  better  advantage 
when  the  plants  are  under  cover  ;  but  outside  we 
are  more  at  the  mercy  of  atmospheric  changes. 
Taken  all  round,  I  do  not  think  we  suffered  so 
much  as  usual  during  the  past  Rose  season. 
Among  varieties  most  subject  to  mildew  are 
Her  Majesty,  Queen  of  Spain,  Innocente  Pirola, 
Bessie  Brown,  Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam,  Violette 
Bouyer,  Abel  Carri^re,  Mar^chal  Niel,  Souvenir 
de  Pierre  Notting,  Reynolds  Hole,  Camille  Ber- 
nardin,  Crimson  Rambler,  Climbing  Niphetos, 
Climbing  Devoniensis,  Fran9ois  Michelon,  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant,  Lady  Helen  Vincent,  Climbing 
Perle  des  Jardins,  Rosslyn,  Rev.  Alan  Cheales, 
Prince  C.  de  Rohan,  Ethel  Brownlow,  Mildred 
Grant,  Mrs.  E.  Mawley  and  Mme.  Margottin. 
Fortunately,  with  the  exception  of  Mareohal 
Niel,  we  can  replace  much  the  same  colours  and 
general  usefulness  of  growth  by  varieties  not 
nearly  so  subject  to  this  pest.  A  few  that  are 
especially  free  from  mildew  are  Ulrich  Brunner, 
Mrs.  Rumsey,  Tom  Wood,  Mrs.  B.  R.  Cant, 
Mme.  Autoine  Mari,  Boule  de  Neige,  Lady 
Waterlow,  Joseph  Hill,  Griiss  an  Teplitz,  Dupuy 
Jamain  and  Captain  Hayward.  All  of  the 
rugosas  are  quite  free  with  me,  and,  like  the 
Penzance  Briars,  do  not  suffer  from  this  or  red 
rust,  which  so  often  spoil  the  majority  of  our 
early  flowering  Roses.  The  wichuraianas  are  also 
very  free  from  these  two  diseases. — A.  Piper. 


NEW    PLANTS. 

Chrysanthemum  Mrs.  W.  Parker. — A  remark- 
ably good,  free -flowering  single  variety,  the 
naturally  grown  sprays  producing  eight  to  a  dozen 
flower-heads  each.  The  colour  is  white  with  a 
pink  tinge,  and  the  plant  is  about  3  feet  in  height. 
Exhibited  by  Mr.  F.  Brazier,  Caterham.  Award 
of  merit. 

Chrysanthemum  Kathleen  May.  — ■  The  most 
brilliant  single-flowered  variety  we  have  seen,  a 
veritable  gem  of  crimson  and  gold.  In  any 
light  the  brilliant  crimson-scarlet  florets  are 
most  effective,  and  seen  in  the  large  flower-heads, 
fully  4  inches  across,  appear  quite  unique,  the 
clear  golden  yellow  of  the  disc  enhancing  the 
value  of  a  novelty  of  sterling  merit  and  distinc- 
tiveness. Shown  by  Messrs.  H.  J.  Jones, 
Limited,  Ryeoroft  Nursery,  Lewisham,  S.E. 
Award  of  merit. 

Cypripedium  Lion  (Boadicea  x  Sallieri 
hyeanum.  —  A  very  handsome  hybrid,  the 
broadly  ovate  dorsal  sepal  coloured  rose  and 
margined  with  white,  the  widely  winged  sepals 
having  a  greenish  tinge  in  the  lower  half  and  a 
reddish  bronze  tone  in  the  upper  half,  the  pouch 
being  mostly  of  the  latter  tone,  interspersed  with 
green.  A  very  showy  and  striking  flower.  Shown 
by  Messrs.  Sander  and  Sons,  St.  Albans.  Award 
of  merit. 


BOOKS. 

Wapley  Gapdens  In  Spplng  and 

Summep.*  —  This  sumptuous  work  consists 
simply  of  collotype  reproductions  illustrating  an 
intensely  interesting  and  charming  garden.  The 
world    of    horticulture    owes    much     to    Miss 


*  "Warley  Gardens  in  Spring  and  Summer,"  by  Ellen 
Willmott,f.L.S.,  V.M..H.  Published  by  Bernard  Quaritch, 
Grafton  Street,  New  Bond  Street,  Loudon.    Price  £1  Is. 


612 


THE    GARDEN. 


[December  18,  1909. 


Willmott,  who  is  not  only  enthusiastic  herself,  but 
inspires  enthusiasm  in  others.  In  has  been  the 
pririlege  of  the  writer  to  visit  Warley  on  several 
occasions,  but  perhaps  it  is  in  the  springtime  of 
the  year,  when  the  Daffodils  and  the  Crocuses 
make  glorious  carpets  of  colour,  that  it  appeals 
most  to  those  who  love  their  gardens.  The 
illustrations  are  from  Miss  Willmott's  own 
photographs,  and  set  forth  the  many  phases  of 
gardening  which  are  represented  in  this  Essex 
home.  The  frontispiece  is  of  the  house  itself, 
from  which  beautiful  views  of  the  surrounding 
country  are  obtained,  the  Thames  winding  in  the 
distance,  but  in  the  spring  of  the  year  there  are 
Daffodils  in  profusion  in  the  grass.  "Wild 
Crocuses,"  the  first  plate,  portrays  the  beauty  of 
the  flower,  the  grass  gemmed  over  with  a  carpet 
of  exquisite  colouring  ;  then  the  Nut  walk,  with 
its  fluttering  Daffodils ;  and  in  Plate  3  is  depicted 
the  "Varied  Planting  of  Rocky  Slope,"  Yuccas, 
tree  and  shrub  grouped  in  a  way  to  show  their 
characteristic  beauty.  The  plate  that  follows, 
"  Dog's-tooth  Violets,"  has  much  teaching  value ; 
it  shows  this  beautiful  and  neglected  flower 
grouped  among  stones,  and  this,  we  think,  is  one 
of  the  most  charming  pictures  of  the  book. 
Another  gem  is  "Alpine  Primroses,"  and  then 
follows  an  open  sweep,  "  On  the  Way  to  the  Alpine 
Garden,"  "Californian  Rockfoil  by  Margin  of 
Water,"  "  Flower  Border  in  June,"  and  "  Ramon- 
dias  in  Alpine  Garden."  There  are  fewer  more 
interesting  plants  for  the  rock  or  alpine  garden 
than  the  Ramondia.  It  has  oharacteristic  deep 
green  leaves  and  purplish  flowers,  which,  how- 
ever, in  the  variety  alba  are  white.  A  delightful 
study  is  "  Harebells  and  Mountain  Pinks,"  and 
there  is  much  to  interest  one  in  the  plate 
showing  a  wealth  of  Foxgloves.  Well  we 
remember  the  pools  in  the  alpine  garden,  of 
which  two  illustrations  are  given.  "  Rocky 
Pathway "  is  a  beautiful  reproduction.  This 
teaches  one  the  value  of  grouping  and  also  the 
right  position  in  which  to  place  certain  flowers. 
"  Flowers  which  Grow  in  the  Shade  "  is  an  illus- 
tration of  great  beauty,  but  it  is  more  than  this — 
it  shows  how  much  can  be  accomplished  under 
these  conditions.  "  The  Garden  House "  and 
"Nankeen  Lilies"  are  two  exquisite  pictures. 
"  Warley  Gardens  in  Spring  and  Summer  "  is 
a  book  worthy  of  the  author  and  worthy  of  a 
garden  that  is  full  of  rare  plants.  Miss  Willmott 
has  accomplished  much.  The  Daffodil  is  one  of 
the  flowers  that  have  a  place  at  Warley,  and  is 
there  represented  in  many  forms,  and  the  Rose, 
too.  No  one  has  done  more  during  recent  years 
to  help  forward  the  National  Rose  Society. 
Horticulture  owes  much  to  such  workers  among 
the  flowers  as  the  author  of  this  beautiful 
book. 

Fruit  Ranching'  in  British 
Colombia,* — This  is  a  most  instructive 
and  thoughtful  book,  and  should  be  read  by  all 
who  contemplate  settling  in  British  Colombia. 
In  the  preface  reasons  are  given  for  not  attempt- 
ing fruit-growing  in  these  isles.  It  enters 
thoroughly  into  the  business  side  of  the  matter, 
and  no  detail  has  been  omitted  that  would  be 
likely  to  assist  those  who  intend  to  embark  upon 
this  industry  in  Canada.  Many  illustrations 
are  given,  and  those  of  individual  varieties  are 
especially  interesting,  that  of  "  Cox's  Orange 
Pippin— Two  Years  Old"  in  particular  (facing 
page  16). 

Field  and  'Woodland  Plants.t— A 

charming  book  which  all  who  love  the  country 
should  add  to  their  library.  Unfortunately, 
want  of  space  prevents  a  lengthy  notice,  but  this 
is  a  book  to  keep  close  at  hand  whether  one  lives 
in  the  country  or  not.  It  is  well  written,  free 
from  needless  technicalities,  fully  illustrated, 
and  forms  an  additional  volume  of  value  to  the 
young  naturalist's  "  Outdoor  World  Series." 

»  "Fruit  aanching  in  British  Colombia,"  by  J.  T. 
Bealby.    A.  and  C.  Blaulc,  London. 

t  "Field  and  Woodland  Planti,"  by  W.  S.  Furneaux. 
Longmans,  Green  and  Co.,  London.    Price  6s.  net. 


GARDENING    OF 
WEEK. 


THE 


FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND    SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Fruits  Under  Glass. 

STRAWBERRIES.— A  number  of  these 
may  now  be  cleaned,  top-dressed  and 
placed  in  a  gentle  warmth  near  to  the 
glass  to  start  into  growth.  See  that 
the  pots  are  well  washed,  and  any 
worms  which  may  have  got  into  the 
soil  should  be  removed.  Do  not  keep  the  roots 
too  wet.  For  some  time  very  little  water  will  be 
required,  but  after  new  growth  and  the  roots 
have  been  set  in  motion  more  water  will  be 
necessary.  Begin  with  a  night  temperature  of 
45°  to  50°,  rising  to  55°  by  the  time  the  trusses 
are  visible.  Admit  a  little  air  daily  according 
to  the  weather,  and  should  green  fly  appear, 
fumigate  at  once.  Should  the  weather  prove 
bright  and  sunny,  slightly  syringe  the  plants  with 
tepid  water  ;  but  this  should  be  regulated  accord- 
ing to  the  pitch  of  the  house  in  which  they  are 
being  forced. 

Fiys. — For  the  production  of  early  dishes  of 
these  fruits,  plants  in  pots  or  tubs  will  require 
attention,  and  the  wood,  if  not  done,  should  be 
washed  with  a  solution  of  soap  and  sulphur. 
Top-dress  with  suitable  soil  and  stand  them  in 
a  gentle  warmth,  after  which  plunge  the  pots  in 
a  bed  of  leaves  that  will  produce  a  lasting  heat. 
Moderately  low  houses  facing  the  south  are 
the  most  suitable. 

KiTCHBN  Garden. 

Cucumbers. — Plants  in  bearing  must  be  care- 
fully attended  to,  keeping  the  night  temperature 
at  about  70",  or  5°  less  in  preference  to  very  hard 
firing.  When  the  weather  is  very  cold,  cover  the 
glass,  if  possible,  with  mats  to  help  to  preserve 
the  heat.  Keep  the  foliage  clean  and  free  from 
red  spider  (one  of  the  most  troublesome  insects)  by 
carefully  syringing  the  plants  in  fine  weather. 
Do  not  keep  the  roots  too  wet,  and  if  they  are 
plentiful,  top-dress  lightly  with  a  little  fresh, 
sweet  soil  and  leaf -mould.  Do  not  allow  the  plants 
to  become  too  crowded,  and  attend  to  the  stopping 
of  the  young  growth  ;  a  fresh  stock  of  young 
plants  may  now  be  reared.  Sow  the  seed  singly  in 
small,  clean,  well-drained  pots,  using  a  rather 
light  soil.  The  pots  must  be  plunged  in  a  brisk 
bottom-heat,  and  the  soil  need  not  be  watered  for 
some  time,  but  when  the  seed  has  germinated 
more  water  in  a  tepid  state  may  be  applied. 

Tomatoes. — Young  plants  raised  from  seed 
sown  at  the  end  of  November  will  now  be  large 
enough  to  be  pricked  ofl'  into  small  pots,  either 
singly  or  two  or  three  in  pots  a  little  larger. 
Use  the  soil  rather  light  and  porous,  and  of  the 
same  temperature  as  the  house  in  which  they 
have  been  raised.  Tomato  plants  require  very 
little  pot  room  and  moisture  at  this  stage  and 
time  of  year,  and  they  must  be  given  a  warm, 
light  position  near  the  glass. 

Plants  Under  Glass. 

Keep  on  the  dry  side  plants  of  AUamandas, 
Stephanotis,  Clerodendrons  and  other  kinds 
that  are  still  at  rest,  but  do  not  allow  them  to 
suflfer  through  over-dryness.  Gardenias  to  flower 
early  will  require  a  little  stimulant  at  the  roots 
at  intervals,  and  any  new  side  growths  near  the 
flower-buds  should  be  removed.  Keep  the  foliage 
healthy  and  free  from  insects,  and  syringe  occa- 
sionally overhead  during  bright  weather. 

Streptoaolen  Jameaonii,  with  its  long  sprays  of 
orange-coloured  flowers,  should  be  given  a  position 
where  large  quantities  of  flowers  are  required  and 
suitable  house  room  exists.  It  grows  well  in  the 
conservatory  trained  to  lattice  -  work  on  the 
walls,  also  on  pillars  and  in  pots.  Young  shoots 
made  into  cuttings  root  freely  and  quickly  make 
useful  plants.  H.  Markham. 

(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield.) 

Wrotham  Park  Oardene,  Baimtt. 


FOR  THE  NORTH  AND  NORTH 

MIDLANDS. 

Fruit  Houses. 
Vineries. — Where  ripe  Grapes  are  expected  in 
May  next  and  pot  Vines  are  not  grown  for  the 
purpose,  the  earliest  permanently  planted  house 
should  be  closed,  or  if  this,  owing  to  the  severe 
weather  of  late,  has  already  been  done,  a  slight 
amount  of  fire-heat  may  be  applied  and  the  canes 
damped  with  tepid  water  whenever  a  bright  day 
occurs  to  raise  the  temperature.  As  an  assistance 
to  the  free  bursting  of  the  buds,  and  also  a  saving 
of  fuel,  a  cartload  of  well-worked  fermenting 
material — stable  litter  and  fresh  tree  leaves  in 
about  equal  parts — placed  upon  the  border  in  a 
heap  would  soon  generate  a  steady,  genial  heat, 
which,  on  being  turned  occasionally  to  liberate 
the  accumulated  ammonia,  would  prove  very  bene- 
ficial to  the  Vines.  While  this  is  going  on 
another  supply  for  its  replenishment  should  be 
in  course  of  preparation  outside,  so  that,  once 
started,  the  treatment  is  continued  until  leaves 
appear,  when  fire-heat  alone  will  be  safest. 
The  practice  of  bending  the  canes  so  that  the 
tops  are  in  near  proximity  to  the  roots  is  worth 
following  in  the  case  of  young  and  vigorous 
Vines,  the  result  being  a  more  even  advance  of 
the  buds.  Old  Vines  would  be  less  affected  by 
this,  even  could  it  be  done,  but  the  tops  being 
depressed  according  to  their  rigidity  and  tied 
over  the  pathways  is  helpful  in  this  way,  and 
syringing  is  more  effectively  performed. 

Peach-houses. — Trees  that  for  several  seasons 
have  been  forced  respond  quickly  to  extra  heat 
applied,  and  this  should  be  of  very  moderate 
degree  at  first.  Having  cleansed  the  house  and 
the  trees  and  tied  the  branches  of  the  latter  in 
position,  itwould  be  well  to  ascertain  the  condition 
of  the  border  as  to  moisture,  and  water  be  given 
if  necessary,  a  process  which  may  not  require 
repeating  until  the  flowering  period  is  past. 

Figs  in  Pots.  — These  are  best  for  early  work, 
and  presuming  that  any  root  disturbance  con- 
sidered necessary  was  carried  out  some  time  ago, 
the  plants  may  now  be  placed  in  the  most  con- 
venient structure  available,  and  this,  if  possible, 
should  be  so  constructed  that  a  large  bed  of  Beech 
or  Oak  leaves  may  be  employed  as  a  plunge-bed 
for  the  pots ;  failing  this  and  fire-heat  alone 
having  to  be  depended  upon,  a  night  tempera- 
ture of  50",  or  even  less  when  outside  atmo- 
spheric conditions  are  unfavourable,  will  be 
ample  for  some  time.  Make  the  most  of  sun- 
heat  and  sprinkle  the  trees  freely  in  bright 
weather,  while  the  same  about  the  walls  and 
pathways  will  suffice  under  opposite  conditions. 
Water  at  the  roots  must  be  very  sparingly 
applied  until  growth  is  visible,  more  particularly 
so  should  much  of  the  rooting  medium  be  as  yet 
unoccupied  by  roots. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Pruning  and  Training. — This  work  should  be 
proceeded  with  whenever  the  weather  permits. 
Where  summer  pruning  is  well  attended  to,  that 
of  winter  is  much  reduced,  much  to  the  benefit 
of  the  trees,  and  the  work  now  will  mainly 
consist  of  cutting  away  dead  and  effete  snags  and 
reducing  in  length  unripened  shoots.  Train- 
ing can  be  properly  done  only  at  this  time,  by 
carefully  examining  all  ties  and  shreds  and 
renewing  any  that  are  tight  around  the  branches 
or  that  have  become  obsolete.  At  the  same  time, 
any  shoots  of  the  current  year  that  were  left  for 
the  extension  of  the  trees  should  be  trained  close 
to  the  supports  and  as  straight  as  possible. 
Apples. — In  pruning  these  some  consideration 
paid  to  the  natural  habits  of  varieties  is  helpful. 
Some,  such  as  Lady  Sudeley,  Gladstone  and 
Worcester  Pearmain,  produce  flower-buds  princi- 
pally about  the  points  of  the  branches,  and  a 
mere  thinning  out  of  these  is  preferable  to  hard 
pruning.  Cherries  and  Plums,  but  more  particu  - 
larly  the  former,  are  impatient  of  hard  pruning. 
Jambs  Day. 
(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn. ) 

QaUoway  House,  Uarlieatan,  Wiytoumahirn, 


December  18,  1909.] 


THE    GAEDEN. 


613 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


AMEEICAN    BLIGHT    AND    CANKER 
IN   APPLE    TREES. 

UNDOUBTEBLY  two  of  the  most 
insidious  pests  that  the  fruit- 
grower in  this  country  has  to 
contend  with  are  American  blight 
and  canker,  known  respectively  to 
scientists  as  Sohizoneura  lanigera 
and  Nectria  ditissima,  and  as  the  winter  season  is 
one  in  which  much  may  be  done  to  combat  these 
foes,  it  may  be  well  to  devote  a  little  attention 
to  them.  The  first-named  is  of  animal  character, 
and  is  often  known  as  woolly  aphis,  and  the  latter 


A  VASE   OF  A   WHITE      BKDLING  CARNATION.     (See  page  (ill.) 


is  a  fungus ;  but,  nevertheless,  they  not  infre- 
quently work  in  harmony,  hence  my  reason  for 
dealing  with  the  two  in  one  article.  The  wounds 
caused  by  American  blight  often  afford  a  lodging 
for  the  spores  of  canker,  hence  this  animal  pest 
may  be  regarded  as  an  assistant  of  its  fungoid 
ally. 

Taking  American  blight  first,  this  is  happily 
easily  recognised  by  the  woolly  substance  in 
which  the  colonies  of  insects  are  embedded. 
Under  cover  of  this  protection  they  pierce  the 
bark  and  form  ulcerated  wounds,  which,  as  stated 
above,  provide  excellent  places  of  lodgment  for 
canker.  Daring  the  winter  months  the  insects 
are  in  a  more  or  less  passive  state,  but  in  summer 
propagation  goes  on  at  a  fast  rate,  winged 
viviparous  females  going  from  tree  to  tree  and 
establishing  new  colonies,  and  egg-laying  females 


lay  eggs  in  autumn  in  the  crevices  of  the  bark, 
these  usually  hatching  in  spring.  Not  only  the 
branches,  but  the  roots  also,  of  trees  are  attacked 
by  this  pest,  and  colonies  of  the  insects,  especially 
during  the  winter  months,  may  be  found  on  the 
roots. 

Having  thus  briefly  considered  the  history  and 
character  of  this  pest,  we  may  now  turn  our 
attention  to  its  extermination.  At  the  present 
season  nothing  is  better  than  the  caustic  wash 
made  by  dissolving  half  a  pound  of  caustic  soda 
(98  per  cent.)  and  half  a  pound  of  commercial 
potash  in  five  gallons  of  water.  This  should  be 
forcibly  injected  into  all  crevices  where  the  pest 
is  lurking,Sand  will  kill  all  that  it  reaches.  In 
old,  badly  infested  trees  it  may  be  necessary  to 
well  work  it  into  the  wounds  with  a  stiff  brush. 
The  roots  are  natu- 
rally more  difficult 
to  deal  with  ;  but  if 
it  is  suspected  that 
they  are  affected, 
they  should  be  ex- 
posed and  treated 
with  the  wash,  dur- 
ing the  using  of 
which  rubber  gloves 
should  be  worn,  as 
it  has  a  burning 
effect  on  the  hands. 
At  Woburn  success- 
ful experiments  have 
been  conducted  by 
injecting  carbon  di- 
sulphide  into  the 
soil  in  which  the 
roots  are  growing, 
2oz.  to  4oz.  being 
used  to  each  tree, 
a  special  pointed 
syringe  being  used 
for  the  purpose. 

In  summer  the 
best  treatment  is  to 
use  a  petroleum 
wash  in  the  form 
of  a  soft  soap  emul- 
sion, such  being  sold 
by  several  makers  of 
insecticides.  In  the 
case  of  old  trees, 
this  should  be 
scrubbed  or  brushed 
well  into  the  wounds 
where  the  insects 
are  situated,  ordi- 
nary spraying  being 
of  little  use  owing 
to  the  woolly 
material  with  which 
the  pests  are  pro- 
tected. Young  nur- 
sery trees,  if  any 
suspicion  as  to  the 
presence  of  Ameri- 
can blight  exists, 
should  be  immersed 
for  ten  minutes  in 
water  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  115"  Fahr.  This  has  proved  most  effective 
at  Woburn  ;  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
placing  of  the  trees  in  the  water  lowers  the 
temperature,  and  this  must  be  maintained  by  the 
adding  of  more  hot  water.  Once  this  pest  gains 
an  entrance  to  an  orchard,  nothing  but  persistent 
efforts  on  the  lines  indicated  above  will  extermi- 
nate it. 

Canker  is  usually  regarded  as  being  due  to 
poor  cultivation  or  planting  trees  in  badly 
drained  soil,  and  although  these  may  assist  the 
disease,  inasmuch  as  they  weaken  the  tree,  it 
often  appears  on  trees  that  have  been  afforded 
good  cultivation.  It  forms  rugged  -  looking 
wounds  on  the  branches,  killing  the  bark  as  it 
goes,  and  if  left  alone  will  in  time  encircle  the 
branch  and  so  kill  it.  Where  a  branch  is  almost 
or  quite  dead,  it  should  be  cut  out  below  the 


point  of  infection ;  but  other  less  advanced 
wounds  may  sometimes  be  cured  by  paring  them 
out  with  a  sharp  knife,  taking  care  to  cut  well 
into  live  tissue.  As  mentioned  at  the  outset, 
wounds  caused  by  American  blight  and  other 
means,  such  as  the  chafing  of  two  branches, 
provide  suitable  points  of  entrance  for  the 
fungus,  and  all  such  should  be  pared  smooth  and 
painted  with  Stockholm  or  ordinary  coal  tar, 
this  also  applying  to  the  wounds  from  which  the 
fungus  has  been  cut. 

Cultural  details  must  also  be  attended  to.  If 
it  is  found  that  the  soil  is  at  all  water-logged, 
this  must  be  remedied.  A  mixture  of  manures 
which  has  been  found  specially  useful  in  com- 
bating this  disease  is  made  up  as  follows  :  Super- 
phosphate, 61b.  ;  nitrate  of  potash,  51b.  ;  sulphate 
of  lime,  21b.  ;  nitrate  of  soda,  IJlb.  ;  and  sulphate 
of  iron.  Jib.  This  should  be  applied  as  a  top- 
dressing  in  January  or  February  at  the  rate  of  4oz. 
to  the  square  yard.  During  the  winter  months, 
when  work  is  naturally  slack,  much  good  work 
on  the  lines  indicated  above  may  be  done  in 
fruit  plots  or  orchards  where  either  of  the  pests 
are  present.  H. 


JOHN    GERARD.  — I. 

His  Life. 

JOHN  GERARD,  who  was  born  at  Nant- 
wich,  Cheshire,  in  the  year  1545,  may 
appropriately  be  called  one  of  the 
Fathers  of  British  Gardening. 
At  a  very  early  age  he  was  drawn  to 
the  study  of  botany.  Very  likely  the 
seeds  would  be  sown  as  he  trudged  the  two  miles 
to  school  at  Willaston  or  spent  his  playtime  in 
the  lanes  and  fields,  for  he  remembered  some 
wild  "  Raspis  "  (Raspberries)  that  grew  "  among 
the  bushes  of  a  cawsey  neere  unto  a  village  called 
Wisterson  where  I  went  to  school,"  when  years 
afterwards  he  was  compiling  his  great  work, 
"  The  Herball  or  General!  Historic  of  Plantes." 
As  it  is  the  existence  of  this  book  that  has  made 
him  so  famous,  and  as  there  are  so  many  things  of 
interest  in  connexion  with  its  compilation  and 
its  contents,  I  propose,  on  the  Editor's  suggestion, 
to  make  it  the  subject  of  a  second  article. 

Then,  as  now,  a  young  man  with  ideas  and 
aspirations  would  be  sure  to  make  his  way  to 
London  on  the  earliest  opportunity.  In  all 
probability  Gerard,  like  Dick  Whittington, 
thought  the  streets  were  paved  with  gold,  and  if 
he  had  heard  the  famous  tale,  he  might  very  well 
have  imagined  that  his  love  of  plants  and  his 
desire  to  excel  in  his  profession  would  be  talis- 
men  in  every  way  as  efficacious  as  Dick's  historical 
cat. 

At  any  rate,  in  1562  he  was  apprenticed  to  one 
Alexander  Mason,  a  surgeon  with  an  extensive 
practice  in  London,  who  rose  to  be  both 
Warden  and  Master  of  the  Barber-Surgeons. 
His  pupil  was  admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the 
company  on  December  9,  1569.  It  would  be  an 
interesting  digression  to  trace  the  history  of  the 
"  barbers  "  and  the  "  surgeons  "  up  to  and  after 
their  union  in  1540.  It  must,  however,  be 
sufficient  to  note  that  the  commemoration  of  this 
event  has  been  immortalised  in  the  great  work  of 
Holbein,  which  is  now  "  the  company's  chief 
treasure."  It  represents  King  Henry  VIII. 
seated  on  a  Chair  of  State  and  surrounded  by 
eighteen  kneeling  surgeons,  to  one  of  whom  he  is 
handing  a  deed. 

Gerard  when  a  young  man  visited  (probably  as 
surgeon  on  board  a  merchant  vessel)  both  the 
Baltic  and  the  Mediterranean.  He  writes  of 
having  seen  "wilde  Pines  grow  ...  in  the 
woods  by  Narua  and  all  the  tract  of  the  way 
from  Narua  unto  Mosoouia,"  and  of  having 
talked  with  "  the  Merchants  of  the  Factorie  at 
Tripolis  "  about  Cedars. 

He  settled  down  in  London  before  1577,  as  in 
his  preface  to  the  Herbal  he  says  he  had  super- 
intended Lord  Burleigh's  gardens  in  the  Strand 


614 


THE    GAKDEN. 


[Pkcembkr  18,  190», 


and  at  Theobalds  in'  Hertfordshire  for  twenty 
years.  Here  for  his  ' '  very  good  Lord  and 
Master  he  had  added  from  forren  places  all  the 
varietie  of  herbes  and  flowers  that  he  might  any 
way  obtain  and  he  had  laboured  with  the  soile 
to  make  it  fit  for  the  plants,  and  with  the  plants 
to  make  them  to  delight  in  the  soile."  All  this 
must  have  taken  up  a  great  deal  of  his  time, 
and,  to  some  extent,  must  have  prevented  him 
exercising  his  calling  as  a  doctor  or  surgeon. 
It  must  be  remembered,  too,  that  he  had  a 
garden  of  his  own  in  Fetter  Lane,  and  that  he 
sometimes  took  long  journeys  in  search  of  rare 
simples.  In  this  way  he  became  familiar  with  a 
very  large  number  of  plants,  and  so  George 
Baker,  "  one  of  His  Majesties  ohiefe  Chirurgions 
in  ordinarie,"  in  the  laudatory  letter  which  he 
contributed  as  a  "send-off"  for 
the  book,  was  able  to  write,  "  I 
do  not  think  for  his  knowledge 
of  plants  that  he  is  inferior  to 
any,"  mentioning  that  in  a 
friendly  trial  of  naming  with 
the  celebrated  French  gardener 
Robin  "  my  Frenchman  did  not 
know  one  to  his  fower. "  In  a 
poem,  contributed  by  his  learned 
triend  and  loving  brother  in  art, 
Thomas  Thorney,  the]  author, 
addressing  him,  says : 

We  see 

How  thou  thy  mind  hast  bent, 
Thy  bodie  toyld,  thy  time  bestnwde 

And  many  a  pound  hast  spent, 
In  sleeplesse  nights,  in  restlesse  daies, 

In  places  far  and  neere. 

Of  Gerard's  family  life  we 
know  nothing,  except  that  he 
was  married  and  that  his  wife 
was  of  very  great  assistance  to 
him  in  his  profession.  From  the 
solitary  reference  to  her  in  his 
Herbal,  I  would  suggest  that  she 
was  able  to  take  a  considerable 
part  of  this  work  oft'  his  hands, 
thus  allowing  him  more  time 
for  his  gardening  occupations. 

He  lived  at  Holborn,  at  that 
time  a  fashionable  suburb  of 
London.  Here,  doubtless,  he 
would  be  visited  by  his  many 
friends  and  acquaintances  of 
high  and  low  degree,  for  his 
nature  was  such  that  he  was 
able  in  a  remarkable  manner  to 
attract  men.  Quite  casually  in 
his  Herbal  he  mentions  more 
than  fifty  who  helped  him  by 
sending  plants.  Robin  of  Paris, 
Camerarius  of  Nuremburg,  Lord 
Zouoh,  Nicholas  Lete  and  John 
Franqueville,  two  merchant 
princes  of  London,  Thomas 
Edwards  of  Exeter,  and  James 
Garret,  an  apothecary,  were 
among  the  senders  of  foreign 
plants;  while  for  indigenous,  the 
names  he  most  frequently  men- 
tions are  Thomas  Hesketh,  a 
Lancashire  gentleman,  and  Stephen  Bredwell, 
a  West  of  England  physician. 

In  one  way  the  times  may  be  compared  to  our 
own.  Gardening  was  every  day  becoming  more 
and  more  the  fashion.  The  growing  commerce 
and  spirit  of  the  times,  the  many  novelties  which 
were  being  brought  to  England  by  Raleigh  and 
Cavendish  and  other  travellers,  the  publication 
of  such  books  (really  monographs)  as  "  Monardes 
on  the  Simples  of  the  West  Indies, "  which  work 
was  translated  into  English  by  James  Frampton, 
a  merchant  who  had  resided  for  a  long  time  at 
Seville,  all  combined  to  make  the  age  a 
memorable  one  in  the  history  of  gardening  and 
medicine. 

No  one  realised  this  more  than  Gerard.  No 
one  did  more  to  foster  it.     This  was  why  he  had 


a  garden  of  his  own.  It  must  have  been  well 
known  and  highly  thought  of,  for  he  published 
in  1596,  at  the  request  of  many  friends,  a  list  of 
all  the  plants  that  he  had  in  this  little  plot  of 
his  "  special  care  and  husbandrie."  No  less  than 
1,033  species  are  enumerated.  This  little  badly 
printed  book  of  twenty-four  pages  is  the  first 
complete  catalogue  of  any  one  garden,  private  or 
public,  ever  published.  Only  one  original  copy 
exists  today,  and  that  is  in  the  British  Museum. 
However,  in  1876  Mr.  B.  Daydon  Jackson, 
F.L.S.,  published  a  reprint  both  of  this  first 
edition  (1596)  and  also  of  the  second  edition  of 
1599,  together  with  an  excellent  "life."  This 
may  be  justly  considered  the  standard  work  on 
the  subject,  and  I  wish  to  take  this  opportunity 
of     acknowledging    my    indebtedness    to    Mr. 


.TOHN   OERABD. 

Jaokson  for  his  so  kindly  placing  a  copy  at  my 
disposal. 

A  want  of  the  day,  both  from  a  medical  and 
horticultural  point  of  view,  was  an  up-to-date 
Herbal  in  English.  Turner,  although  the  com- 
plete edition  had  only  been  published  in  1568, 
had  become  more  or  less  obsolete ;  Lyte's 
Herbal,  based  on  one  written  by  the  learned 
Dutchman  Dodoens,  was  manifestly  very  imper- 
fect ;  Lobel's  writings  were  in  Latin  and  could 
never  become  popular.  There  was  a  great 
opening.  Gerard  was  sagacious  enough  to  dis- 
cern it,  and  so  this  want  gave  birth  to  "The 
Herbal." 

His  position  as  a  doctor  and  his  practical 
knowledge  of  medicinal  plants  are  reflected  in 
his  standing  as  a  member  of  the  Barber-Surgeons 


Company.  He  became  a  'Warden  in  1597.  He 
was  appointed  examiner  in  1598  and  again  in 
1607.  He  was  elected  to  be  Master  in  1608.  He 
was  frequently  nominated  as  one  of  a  committee 
to  carry  out  some  special  undertaking  or  to  act 
as  an  arbitrator  in  some  dispute.  He  died  in 
February,  1612,  and  was  buried  at  St.  Andrew's, 
Holborn,  on  the  18th  of  that  month. 

A  half-length  portrait  by  William  Rogers  faces 
page  1  of  his  Herbal.  As  may  be  seen  from  the 
reproduction  below,  he  holds  a  branch  of 
the  newly  introduced  Potato  plant  in  his  hand, 
while  below  are  his  own  arms,  those  of  the  City 
of  London  and  of  the  Company  of  Barber- 
Surgeons,  from  the  first  of  which  we  gather 
that  he  was  in  some  way  connected  with  the 
Gerards  of  Ince  in  Lancashire,  but  there  are  no 
records  to  show  his  parentage  or 
descent.  He  had  undoubtedly 
a  very  great  practical  know- 
ledge of  plants.  Through  his 
connexion  with  the  most  power- 
ful statesman  of  the  Elizabethan 
Court  he  had  exceptional  oppor- 
tunities of  getting  new  and  rare 
plants,  and  he  certainly  cannot 
be  reproached  with  having  neg- 
'eoted  them. 

As  he  himself  admits,  his 
acquaintance  with  Latin  and 
Greek  was  but  slight ;  neverthe- 
less, his  Herbal  met  a  want,  and 
although,  as  a  consequence  of  his 
lack  of  classical  learning,  it  con- 
tained many  imperfections,  it  at 
once  took  a  unique  position 
among  similar  works  of  the  age, 
so  much  so  that  when  Thomas 
Johnson  practically  rewrote  it  in 
1633  he  dare  noo  risk  a  new 
title.  Although  very  hard- 
working and  a  man  with  a  high 
reputation  as  a  "herbarist," 
being  appointed  to  act  in  that 
capacity  towards  the  end  of  his 
life  to  King  James  I.,  he  did  not 
find  the  streets  of  London  paved 
with  gold,  but  died  a  poor  man. 
Preferring  still  the  common  good, 

Neglecting  still  thine  owne, 
And  art  content  that  we  shall  reape 

The  seede  which  thou  hast  sown. 
— T.    THOHNF.y,    in    an    introductory 
letter  to  the  Herbal. 

Attractive  and  lovable  as  his 
nature  must  have  been,  to  judge 
by  his  many  friends,  he  had  a 
somewhat  hasty  temper,  which 
led  him  into  trouble  every  now 
and  again,  and  caused  him  to  be 
needlessly  outspoken — on  one 
occasion,  at  any  rate.  Shrewd 
and  far-seeing  in  his  work  and 
profession,  and  making  the  most 
of  his  opportunities  for  acquiring 
new  plants,  John  Gerard  un- 
doubtedly encouraged,  by  his 
own  personal  example,  the  cul- 
tivation and  study  ot  both  native 
and  outlandish  plants;  and, 
although  his  primary  object  was  the  enlarge- 
ment of  the  British  Pharmacopceia,  he  inci- 
dentally did  much — more  by  far  than  any  of 
his  contemporaries — to  encourage  and  improve 
the  art  of  Gardening.  .Joseph  Jacob. 

(To  be  continued.) 

PROTECTING  EVERGREENS  FROM  WIND 
Of  all  trees  and  shrubs  requiring  protection  from 
wind,  none  need  it  more  than  evergreens  recently 
planted  ;  they  are  liable  to  be  blown  about,  and 
when  this  is  not  guarded  against  the  young  roots 
are  prevented  from  taking  hold  of  the  soil,  and  the 
mass  of  roots  and  soil  becomes  separated  from  the 
surrounding  earth.  Interstices  are  formed  into 
which  rain  first  and  frost  afterwards  enter,  while 
in  spring  the  parching  winds  penetrate. 


December  18,  1909. 


THE    GARDEN. 


615 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

KHODODENDKON  GILL'S  TRIUMPH. 

RHODODENDRON  griffithianum,  or  R. 
Auoklandii  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
is  a  well-known  and  very  popular 
Himalayan  shrub  in  gardens  in  the 
South- West  Counties ;  but  further 
North  and  in  colder  districts  it  has 
to  be  accommodated  in  a  cold  greenhouse.  Its 
immense  white,  shapely  blossoms,  each  4  inches 
to  5  inches  across,  stamp  it  as  distinct  from  all 
other  Rhododendrons,  and  it  is  little  wonder  that 
the  hybridist  has  endeavoured  to  obtain  its  size 
of  bloom  with  the  colours  and  larger  trusses  of 
other  kinds.  Mr.  R.  Gill,  until  lately  head- 
gardener  at  Tremough,  near  Falmouth,  has  been 
one  of  the  foremost  of  these  hybridists,  and  he 
has  succeeded  in  raising  several  very  desirable 
novelties,  one  of  the  best  of  which  is  Gill's 
Triumph,  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustra- 
tion. As  will  be  noticed,  the  trusses  are  larger 
than  those  of  R.  griffithianum, 
while  the  flowers  are  almost  as  much 
across,  but  more  tubular,  resulting,  ^ 
no  doubt,  from  the  influence  of  the  >d»j 
other  parent,  R.  Thomsonii.  The 
colour  is  a  particularly  rich  shade 
of  red.  Other  showy  hybrids  of 
this  type  raised  by  Mr.  Gill  are  t 
Beauty  of  Tremough,  pink,  and 
Glory  of  Penjerriok,  red.  The  late 
Mr.  Mangles  also  raised  a  number  ^ 
of  very  showy  kinds,  using  R. 
griffithianum  as  one  parent,  while 
several  have  been  raised  at  Kew, 
the  best  one  of  which  is  appro- 
priately named  R.  kewense.  The 
last-named  plant  is  hardier  than 
most  of  the  sorts,  as  it  grows  out- 
doors in  most  parts  of  the  country, 
for  it  has  to  be  admitted  that, 
though  these  beautiful  kinds  are 
quite  at  home  in  the  mild  climate 
of  the  South- West  Counties,  they 
are  a  qualified  success  out  of  doors 
further  North.  D. 


COLOURED     PLATE 


plate:    1389. 


TWO   NEW   SINGLE    CHRYSAN- 
THEMUMS. 


m 


ANY  beautiful  varieties  of  single 
Chrysanthemums  have  been  raised 
and  putin  to  commerce  during  recent 
years,  and  these  have  done  much  to 
popularise  this  type  of  the  Autumn 
Queen,  and  the  single  forms  maynow 
be  said  to  be  ousting  some  of  the  larger-flowered 
varieties  from  their  erstwhile  prominent  position. 
Nor  can  this  be  wondered  at  when  we  realise  the 
numerous  uses  to  which  they  can  be  put  and  for 
which  the  larger  flowers  are  unsuitable.  It  is 
surely  a  sign  of  the  times  that  our  leading 
growers  are  devoting  much  time  to  the  raising  of 
these  single-flowered  varieties.  Two  flowers 
that  were  very  much  admired  when  shown  for 
the  first  time  last  year  by  Messrs.  Wells  and 
Co.  of  Merstham  were  Peter  Pan  and  Merstham 


The  following  varieties  were  recognised  as  worthy 
of  an  award  of  either  a  first-class  certificate  or  a 
commendation  : 

/.  Wynn.  — This  is  a  beautiful  novelty  of  true 
incurved  form,  having  long  florets  of  good  width 
that  build  a  globular  flower  of  splendid  sub- 
stance. Colour,  white,  freely  tinted  blush  lilac. 
First-class  certificate  to  Mr.  J.  Wynn,  Sedgeford 
Hall  Gardens,  King's  Lynn  (November  15). 

Edwin  Thorp. — This  is  another  beautiful  white 
flower  that  must  be  regarded  as  a  distinct 
acquisition  to  the  incurved  section.  The  florets 
are  of  good  length  and  of  medium  breadth,  and 
build  an  incurved  bloom  of  splendid  depth  and 
solidity.  Commended.  From  Mr.  H.  W.  Thorp, 
Durrington,  Worthing  (November  15). 

Arthur  BawUngs. — Without  a  doubt  this  is 
one  of  the  finest  new  single-flowered  Chrysanthe- 
mums of  the  present  season.  Japanese  single  is 
a  better  description  of  the  type.  It  is  a  large 
flower,  measuring  fully  6  inches  in  diameter, 
having  long,  fairly  broad  florets  that  recurve 
evenly  and  droop  pleasingly  at  the  ends.    Colour, 


LIBOCEDRUS    MACROLEPIS. 

The  genus  Libocedrus  is  repre- 
sented in  gardens  by  a  few  species, 
only  one  of  which  can  be  said  to 
be  really  well  known,  that  being 
L.  deourrens,  a  Southern  Cali- 
fornian  tree  of  stately,  columnar 
habit,  of  which  fiue  examples  are 
met  with  in  several  parts  of  the 
country,  a  number  of  noteworthy 
examples  occurring  in  the  grounds 
at  Frogmore  and  Windsor.  The 
Chilian  L.  chilensis  is  also  occasionally  met  with 
out  of  doors,  while  the  New  Zealand  L.  doniana 
sometimes  finds  a  place  in  a  cool  greenhouse.  A 
few  years  ago  Messrs.  Veitch  succeeded  in  intro- 
ducing a  fourth  species,  L.  macrolepis,  from 
Yunnan ;  unfortunately,  however,  it  has  to  be 
classed  with  the  New  Zealand  plant,  for  it  is  not 
sufficiently  hardy  to  stand  out  of  doors  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  London.  L.  macrolepis  was 
originally  discovered  by  Dr.  Anderson,  who 
accompanied  the  expedition  of  Major  E.  B. 
Sladen  to  South- Western  China  as  medical  officer 
and  naturalist  for  the  purpose  of  opening  up  new 
trade  routes  early  in  1868.  A  description  of  the 
species  was  made  by  Kurz  in  the  "Journal  of 
Botany  "  in  187.3,  page  196,  Fig.  133,  under  the 
name  of  Caloeedrus  macrolepis.  This  generic 
name  was,  however,  subsequently  dropped  and 
the  species  included  in  Libocedrus  by  Bentham 
and  Hooker  in  the  "Genera  Plantarum,"  Vol.  III. , 
page  426.  A  very  nice  specimen,  6  feet  or  more 
high  and  upwards  of  3  feet  through,  is  to  be  seen 
in  the  Temperate  House  at  Kew,  in  addition  to 
several  smaller  examples.  This  plant  is  pos- 
sibly the  largest  in  the  country.  D. 


HIMALAYAN  BHODODBNDKON   GILLS  TRlnMPH. 


Jewel,  the  colour  of  which  is  well  shown  in  the 
accompanying  coloured  plate,  and  we  are 
indebted  to  Messrs.  Wells  for  the  flowers  from 
which  the  drawing  was  prepared.  As  will  be 
seen,  the  blossoms  are  of  good  shape  and  are 
freely  produced  on  stout  stems,  so  that  they 
should  prove  excellent  for  cutting.  The  colours 
will,  we  think,  appeal  to  most  of  our  readers. 


THE     GREENHOUSE. 

NEW  CERTIFICATED  CHRYSANTHE- 
MUMS. 
TWO  meetings  of  the  National  Chrysan- 
themum Society's  floral  committee 
have  been  held  since  notes  respecting 
certificated  novelties  appeared  in  the 
issue  of  The  Garden  dated  Novem- 
ber 13,  Both  meetings  were  full  of 
interest,  as  a  very  large  number  of  new  Chrysan- 
themums of  a  high  degree  of  excellence  were  placed 
before  the  committee,  who  observed  an  excellent 
standard  of  quality  when  making  their  awards. 


a  lovely  tone  of  rosy  terra-cotta.  First-class 
certificate  to  Mr.  T.  BuUimore,  Grove  House 
Gardens,  Roehampton  (November  15). 

Fanny  Lemon. — It  is  many  years  since  the  list 
of  incurved  varieties  has  been  so  much  enriched. 
This  is  an  incurved  bloom  of  superb  form  and  of 
high  exhibition  quality,  having  florets  of  medium 
width  and  good  length  that  build  a  flower  of 
good  substance  and  considerable  depth.  Colour, 
deep  primrose  yellow.  First-class  certificate 
to  Mr.  Thorp  (November  15). 

Eva  Smith. — Still  another  massively  built 
incurved  bloom  of  good  form  and  splendid 
exhibition  quality.  In  this  instance  the  florets 
are  of  medium  width  and  of  good  length,  and 
build  a  flower  of  beautiful  form.  As  a  white 
novelty  it  is  an  acquisition.  First-class  certificate 
to  Mr.  N.  Molyneux,  The  Gardens,  Rookesbury 
Park,  Wickham,  Hants  (December  1). 

Mrs.  Rolfe. — This  is  a  medium-sized  Japanese 
flower  suitable  for  market  or  decorative  uses.  It 
is  a  loosely  built  flower,  having  florets  of  fairly 
good  breadth.  Colour,  shell  pink,  with  greenish 
yellow  centre.  Commended.  From  Mr.  Thorp, 
Worthing  (December  1). 


616 


THE    GARDEN. 


[December  18,  190S. 


Silver  Tip.  —  Another  Japanese  decorative 
variety  suitable  for  market  purposes.  The  flowers 
are  of  medium  to  large  size,  having  long  florets  of 
medium  breadth  that  reflex  in  very  even  fashion 
and  build  a  bloom  of  drooping  form.  Colour,  deep 
rose,  tipped  white.  First-class  certificate.  Also 
from  Mr.  Thorp  (December  1). 

Mrs.  Oodard. — In  this  instance  the  .Japanese 
flowers,  which  are  decorative  and  well  adapted 
for  market  purposes,  are  of  medium  size,  full, 
and  of  even  form.  The  colour  may  be  described 
as  reddish  bronze,  which  is  well  displayed  in  the 
reflexed  character  of  the  blooms.  Commended. 
From  Mr.  Thorp  (December  1). 

if?t««ei. — This  is  a  superb  decorative  .Japanese 
flower,  and  of  a'size  that  market  growers  can  fully 
appreciate.  The  florets  are  of  medium  width, 
and  build  a  bloom  of  pleasing  drooping  form.  The 
colour,  however,  is  its  chief  beauty,  and  this  may 
be  described  as 
a  very  efTective 
and  bright 
tone  of  bronzy 
red,  very 
beautiful  under 
artificial  light. 
First-class 
certificate  to 
Mr.  Thorp 
(December  1). 

Mrs.  G. 
Fergvxon.  —  A 
very  beautiful 
single  variety 
of  medium  to 
large  size, 
having  three  or 
four  rows  of 
florets  neatly 
disposed  round 
an  ideal  yellow 
disc.  The 
plant  is  free- 
flowering  and 
the  sprays  of 
blossoms  of  a 
kind  that  are 
valuable  for 
decorative 
uses.  Pure 
white.  Com- 
mended. From 
Mr.  G.  Fergu- 
s  o  n  ,  The 
Hollies,    Wey-  ^^- 

bridge  (Decem- 
ber 1). 

Baldock' s 
Crimson.  — 
Another  very 
handso  me 
Japanese 
variety  that 
marketgrowers 
hold  in  esteem. 
It  is  a  fine, 
full  flower, 
having     florets 

of  good  breadth  that  reflex  and  droop  in 
pleasing  fashion.  To  be  seen  at  its  best  this 
variety  should  be  disbudded.  Colour,  rich  crim- 
son. First-class  certificate.  From  Mr.  P.  Ladds, 
Swanley  Junction  (December  1). 

Miss  Kathleen  Wfll". — A  beautiful  .Japanese 
single-flowered  variety  of  considerable  promise 
for  late  displays.  The  florets  are  long,  of 
medium  width  and  droop  at  the  ends,  making  an 
attractive  flower.  Colour,  reddish  crimson,  with 
shaded  yellow  zone.  First-class  certificate  to 
Messrs.  W.  Wells  and  Co.,  Limited,  Merstham, 
Surrey  (December  1). 

Queen  of  the  Solent. — This  is  a  distinct  and 
beautiful  single-flowered  variety,  having  several 
rows  of  rather  narrow  florets,  and  of  a  kind  that 
market  growers  now  have  a  distinct  preference 
for.  There  is  every  evidence  that  it  is  free- 
flowering  and  is  highly  decorative.     Colour,  soft 


pink.  First-class  certificate.  From  Mr.  A.  J. 
Powell,  Goldsworth  Grove,  Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight 
(December  1). 

Miss  Muriel  Smith. — An  excellent  example  of 
a  late-flowering  Japanese  decorative  variety, 
especially  well  suited  for  market  growers.  The 
florets  are  long,  and  build  a  flower  of  spreading 
character.  Colour,  old  rose ;  very  beautiful  under 
artificial  light.  First-class  certificate.  From 
Messrs.  Wells  (December  1). 


LtELIO-CATTLEYA. 
beautiful    plants    have 


A    NEW 

ALTHonoH  many  beautiful  plants  have  been 
added  to  this  bigeneric  race  during  the  last  few 
years,  we  do  not  think  any  have  been  more  beau- 
tiful than  that  shown  in  the  accompanying  illus- 
tration and  named  Lajlio-Cattleya  Nelthorpe 
Beauclerk.  This  was  fully  described  under  "  New 


THE   NEW   L.ELIO-CATTLEVA   NELTHORPB  BEAUCIiERK.     (Tiro-thirds  natural  size.) 


Plants  ■'  on  page  594.  It  was  shown  by  Messrs. 
Charlesworth  and  Co.  of  Hayward's  Heath  before 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  on  the  23rd  ult. , 
when  it  received  the  high  recognition  of  a  first- 
class  certificate. 


THE  WINTER  CHERRY  AS  A 
STANDARD. 
Standard  plants  of  the  Winter  Cherry  (Solanum 
Capsicastrum)  are  very  effective  and  afford  a 
change  from  the  dwarf  plants  which  fill  so  promi- 
nent a  position  during  the  winter  months.  Nice 
plants  having  a  clear  stem  of  from  15  Inches  to 
20  inches,  or  more,  maybe  produced  in  two  years 
either  from  seed  or  cuttings.  Their  culture  is 
much  the  same  as  would  be  followed  in  growing 
a  standard  Fuchsia  or  Heliotrope,  differing  only 
in  minor  details. 


I  prefer  raising  the  plants  from  seed  sown  early 
in  January  and  placed  in  a  warm  greenhouse. 
The  young  seedlings  should  be  potted  off 
singly  into  3-inch  pots  when  ready.  Sifted 
loam  and  leaf-mguld,  with  a  small  quantity  of 
sand,  suits  them  well  at  this  stage.  Place  the 
plants  near  the  glass,  and  when  the  roots  reach 
the  sides  of  the  pots  give  them  a  shift  into  4-inch 
pots.  A  little  decayed  manure  should  be  used 
at  this  potting  to  assist  the  plants  in  making 
free  growth.  As  the  season  advances  arrange 
the  plants  in  a  cold  frame,  admitting  air  whdn 
the  weather  permits.  A  neat  stake  must  be 
provided  and  the  young  plant  tied  to  this  aa 
growth  advances.  All  side  shoots  must  be 
pinched  out.  In  June  plant  out  in  rich  soil  and 
in  a  sheltered  position,  a  distance  of  15  inches 
between  the  plants  being  suitable.  Apply  water 
thoroughly    in    the   absence   of    rain,   also  hoe 

between  them 
frequently 
during  the 
summer. 

By  Septem- 
ber the  plants 
will  be  from 
15  inches  to 
20  inches  in 
height.  They 
must  then  be 
taken  up  and 
potted,  using 
pots  just  large 
enough  to 
accommodate 
the  roots  with  a 
small  quantity 
of  soil  around 
them.  Stand 
them  in  an  un- 
heated  pit  or 
frame,  and  keep 
them  close 
until  they  be- 
come estab- 
lished. Spray 
them  overhead 
twice  daily 
during  bright 
weather.  Dur- 
ing the  winter 
the  plants 
should  be 
placed  in  a 
cool  house 
secure  from 
frost,  and  kept 
rather  on  the 
dry  side. 

In  March 
start  them  into 
new  growth  by 
placing  them 
in  a  warmer 
temperature 
and  increasing 
the  supplies  of 
water.  A  top- 
dressing  of  good  soil  is  also  a  material  aid.  As 
soon  as  growth  commences  pinch  out  the  tips  of 
the  plants.  This  induces  the  production  of  side 
shoots,  which  will  form  the  foundation  of  the 
head.  The  treatment  followed  the  second  season 
is  the  same  as  advised  for  the  first  season  ;  but 
when  planting  out  give  a  space  of  20  inches 
between  the  plants  and  be  careful  that  the  stems 
are  secured  firmly  to  a  straight  stake.  No  further 
stopping  is  required  unless  any  more  shoots  are 
produced  from  the  base  of  the  plants,  in  which 
case  they  must  be  pinched  out  as  soon  as  seen. 
Berries  will  be  produced  during  the  autumn,  and 
with  careful  attention  given  to  potting  and  other 
details  very  pretty  and  attractive  plants  will  be 
produced,  and  these  are  very  useful  for  various 
decorations.  By  growing  on  the  plants  for 
several  years  very  handsome  specimens  of  this 
popular  plant  may  be  obtained.  C.  Ruse. 


December  18,  1909.] 


THE    GARDEN. 


617 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

SWEET    PEA    CHAT. 

NEVER  in  the  whole  history  of  the 
Sweet  Pea  has  the  purchase  of  seeds 
been  attended  by  such  an  amount 
of  worry  and  persistence  as  prevails 
this  season.  Scores  of  people  have 
written  round  to  every  retail  dealer 
in  the  country  for  supplies  of  seeds  which  they 
have  been  plainly  informed  have  completely 
failed,  and  occasionally  the  letters  sent  are  not 
conspicuous  for  their  politeness,  since  some 
would-be  growers  do  not  hesitate 
to  say  that  they  do  not  believe 
that  a  variety  could  fail.  They 
argue  that  because  they  can  buy 
as  many  seeds  of  Countess  Spencer 
as  they  care  to  have.  Earl  Spencer 
and  Nancy  Perkin  must  be  equally 
abundant ;  but  they  soon  find  their 
mistake  when  they  are  asked  six- 
pence a  seed  for  the  latter,  and 
they  may  think  themselves  ex- 
ceedingly fortunate  to  get  them 
at  that  figure.  So  wretched  was 
the  harvest  that  even  at  this  late 
date  all  the  catalogues  are  not  in. 
HisTON  Seeds. — Steadily  and 
surely  Mr.  Unwin  has  made  him- 
self a  most  enviable  reputation. 
He  would  be  the  last  man  in  the 
world  to  assert  that  it  was  im- 
possible for  one  of  his  stocks  to 
throw  a  single  rogue  ;  but  there  is 
not  the  slightest  doubt  that  his 
strains  are  among  the  most  reliable 
to  be  procured  anywhere  in  this 
country  or  out  of  it.  It  is  a 
matter  for  the  keenest  regret  that 
the  crop  of  Mrs.  W.  J.  Unwin 
failed.  It  will  be  remembered  by 
visitors  to  the  Reading  trials  as 
a  beautiful  rose  flake  which  was 
honoured  with  an  award  of  merit 
by  the  floral  committee  of  the 
National  Sweet  Pea  Society. 
Everyone  hopes  that  a  supply  will 
be  forthcoming  next  season,  and 
if  it  is,  then  buyers  should  either 
get  it  from  Mr.  Unwin  himself  or 
see  that  the  packets  in  which  it 
arrives  are  those  of  the  raiser, 
for  the  true  strain  will  not  be  pro- 
curable from  any  other  than  the 
fountain-head.  The  Histon  stock 
of  Clara  Curtis,  which  received  a 
first-class  certificate  at  Reading, 
is  catalogued,  and  there  can  surely 
be  no  need  for  me  to  eulogise  it 
after  the  recognition  given  by  the 
floral  committee.  Mr.  Unwin 
makes  a  curious  error  in  catalogu- 
ing Nancy  Perkins.  The  name  is, 
of  course,  Nancy  Perkin,  and  it 
seems  a  pity  that  a  mistake  that 
is  so  common  with  the  general 
public  should  be  perpetuated  by 
the  introducer.  Sixpence  a  seed  is 
the  price,  and  it  is  safe  to  affirm 
that  the  supply  will  not  be  anything  like  equal  to 
the  demand.  Other  Histon  novelties  are  Gladys 
Burt,  salmon  pink  on  a  primrose  base ;  Edna 
Unwin,  intense  orange  scarlet,  said  to  be  a  great 
advance  upon  St.  George  ;  Douglas  Unwin,  rich 
maroon  ;  Doris  Burt,  a  sunproof  scarlet ;  Frank 
Unwin,  lavender,  suffused  mauve ;  Arthur  Unwin, 
standards  rose,  shaded  cream,  wings  cream, 
suffused  rose ;  and  Blue  Flake,  light  blue  on  a 
white  ground.  Having  the  source  in  view,  all  of 
these  should  be  worth  a  trial.  Needless  to  say, 
Mr.  Unwin  lists  all  standard  varieties. 

Havant  Seeds. — Mr.  William  Lumley  is 
entitled  to  the  thanks  of  all  lovers  of  Sweet 
Peas,  if  only  for  the  reason  that  he  gave  to  the 
world  those  two  magnificent  varieties  Constance 


Oliver  and  Marjorie  Willis  ;  the  former  is  a 
general  favourite  for  its  refined  beauty,  while  the 
latter  would  have  been  equally  popular  had  it 
been  more  reliable  in  the  first  season  of  distribu- 
tion. From  this  source  are  announced  no  fewer 
than  five  novelties.  These  are  Buttercup,  cream  ; 
Glitters,  which  is  described  as  Evelyn  Byatt  in 
Spencer  form,  and  should,  therefore,  be  welcome 
for  its  rich  colour  ;  Liberty,  a  crimson  Spencer  ; 
Lizette  Lumley,  a  Jessie  Cuthbertson  Spencer  ; 
and  Mistress  Lumley,  a  cream  ground  Spencer, 
lightly  flaked  in  the  centre,  but  with  what 
colour  Mr.  Lumley  omits  to  state.  The  same  dis- 
tributor offers  also  Mrs.  E.  Noakes,  lavender,  and 


ACANTHUS  SPINGSUS  IN   A  CAMBERLEY  GARDEN. 

Moneymaker  (this  name  recalls  the  Potato  boom 
which  died  a  sudden  death),  white.     Spencer. 


ponds  or  streams.     S.  rosea  and  the  Goat's-beard 
(S.  Aruncus)  should  be  used  for  the  latter. 

Kniphqfias,  or  Tritomas,  and  popularly 
called  Flame  Flowers  or  Red-hot  Poker  Plants. 
Glorious  colouring  by  water-side,  and  should  be 
more  used  for  this  purpose. 

Senecio  Clivorum. — One  of  the  newer  flowers 

that  love  a  moist  soil.     It  develops  rapidly,  has 

bold  foliage  and  tall  stems  bearing  yellow  flowers. 

Arundo  Donax. — One  of  the  Reeds,  a  beautiful 

grassy  plant. 

Rheums.  — Only  to  be  used  for  large  ponds  or 
lakes,  owing  to  the  size  of  the  leaves.  The 
Rheums  belong  to  the  family  of  Rhubarb. 

Gunneras. — The  same  remarks 
apply  to  these  noble  plants. 

Eulaliaa. — A  grassy  Reed-like 
family,  as  graceful  as  anything  one 
can  plant  in  the  garden,  whether 
by  the  water-side  or  elsewhere. 

Irises. — The  rich  yellow  I.  aurea, 
I.  gigantea,  and  I.  Monnieri  may 
be  used  with  charming  results. 

Bocconia  cordata.  — A  shrub-like 
plant  with  grey-green  leaves  and 
cinnamon-coloured  flowers. 

Epilohiums. — Plants  that  must 
have  moisture,  and  send  up  flowers 
of  rich  colours. 

The  following  group  is  adapted 
for  the  water's  edge ; 

Aetilbe.  —  These  are  beautiful 
bushy  plants,  with  flowers  some- 
times a  misty  rosy  shade,  some- 
times white.  A.  rivularis,  A. 
chinensis  and  A.  Davidii  form  a 
good  selection. 

Spircea-i.  — These  are  among  the 
more  popular  of  hardy  plants. 
S.  palmata  makes  a  quick  growth, 
and  in  the  summer  is  a  sea  of 
crimson  flowers. 

Iris  Delavayii. — An  uncommon 
kind  of  great  charm. 

Trollius. — This  is  the  Globe 
Flower  family  ;  the  variety  called 
Orange  Globe  is  of  an  intense 
colour,  which  is  indicated  by  the 
name. 

Lily.  —  The  tall  Lilium  or 
Swamp  Lily  (L.  superbum)  and 
L.  pardalinum  should  be  planted 
in  bold  groups. 

Lobelia.  —  Insufiioient  use  is 
made  of  those  glorious  tall 
Lobelias,  L.  fulgens  and  oardinalis, 
which  require  a  moist  soil  to  bring 
them  to  their  fullest  beauty. 

Montbretias. — These  are  well- 
known  garden  plants,  but  seldom 
seen  by  the  side  of  water. 

Other    plants     of    importance 
comprise        Primulas        japoniea 
and    rosea,   Iris    Ksempferi,    the 
Marsh   Marigolds,    of  which    the 
finest   is  Caltha   polypetala,   the 
Loosestrifes   or  Lytbrums  ;    and, 
by    the    extreme    edge,     Aeorus 
japonicus  fol.-var.,  distinguished 
by  its  variegated  leaves,  the  Por- 
cupine Rush  (Scirpus   zebrinus), 
the   tall  Buttercup    (Ranunculus    Lingua),   the 
double  Arrow-head  and  the  pretty  Butter  Bean 
(Menyanthes  trifoliata). 


PLANTS  FOR  WATER-SIDE. 
In  reply  to  "G.,"  the  following  are  excellent 
plants  for  moist  soil.  All  the  following  flowers 
and  foliage  plants  may  now,  if  the  weather  is 
suitable,  be  transferred  to  the  places  they  are  to 
adorn,  with  the  exception  of  the  Bamboos — these 
must  not  be  planted  before  April.  The  following 
should  be  planted  on  the  bank  and  well  back  : 

Spirfcas. — Noble  plants  of  strong  growth  with 
a  wealth  of  flowers  in  summer.  S.  gigantea,  as 
the  name  indicates,  is  very  tall,  a  superb  kind  for 
the  end  of  the  lake  ;  it  is  not  suitable  for  small 


ACANTHUS  SPINOSUS  IN  A 
CAMBERLEY  GARDEN. 
The  accompanying  illustration  is  from  a  photo- 
graph kindly  sent  to  us  by  Miss  Eyton,  The 
Limes,  Camberley,  and  represents  an  excellent 
plant  growing  in  her  garden  there.  This 
Acanthus  makes  a  very  showy  plant  during  the 
summer  months,  the  curiously  shaped  flowers 
being  of  a  purplish  hue.  It  delights  in  deeply 
worked  and  moderately  rich  soil,  and  should  be 
given  an  open  and  rather  isolated  position. 


618 


THE     GARDEN. 


(December  18,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS, 

PLANTS  FOR  DECORATING  ROOMS. 


GARDEN  WORK  WEEK  BY  WEEK. 

GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES.— 
Where  plants  of  Begonia  Gloire  de 
Lorraine  and  its  allies  were 
flowered  early,  the  blossoms  will 
by  now  be  faded,  and  in  this  case 
the  shoots  should  be  pruned  back  to 
about  half  their  length  and  the  plants  kept  rather 
dry  at  the  roots  and  in  a  cool  temperature  for  a 


ismu 


I. — A    GOOD    SPECIMEN    OF    DRAC.KNA    SrlTAllLE 
FOB   ROOM    DECORATION. 

few  weeks,  so  as  to  give  them  a  slight  rest. 
About  the  third  week  in  January  t.hey  may  be 
stood  in  a  warmer  house  and  lightly  syringed 
with  tepid  water,  when  they  will  soon  produce 
young  growths  suitable  for  making  cuttings. 
Later  plants  that  are  coming  into  flower  should 
be  given  plenty  of  room  in  the  lightest  part  of 
the  house,  each  plant  being  so  placed  that  its  full 
beauty  is  revealed.  Freesias  at  this  season  are 
liable  to  become  infested  with  green  fly,  and 
this  must  be  kept  in  check  either  by  syringing 
with  some  insecticide  or  by  fumigating  the  house. 
All  plants  intended  for  house  decoration  at 
Christmas  should  at  once  be  placed  in  a  cooler 
part  of  the  greenhouse  or  in  cool  frames,  so  as  to 
harden  them  gradually  before  they  are  taken 
into  the  house.  See  that  all  foliage  plants 
intended  for  this  purpose  are  thoroughly  cleaned. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  pruning  of  all  kinds  of 
hardy  fruits.  Gooseberries  excepted,  must  be 
pushed  on  whenever  the  weather  will  allow  this 
being  done,  as  the  sooner  the  work  is  completed 
the  better.  Where  it  is  intended  to  graft 
Apples,  Pears  or  Plums  in  March  next,  select 
some  of  the  best  young  growths  that  have  been 
pruned  away,  tie  them  into  bundles,  label  each 
bundle  plainly,  and  then  place  the  lower  end  of 
each  bundle  in  the  soil  in  a  shady  position.  By 
doing  this  growth  will  be  kept  dormant  until  the 
stock  is  thoroughly  active  and  the  shoots  will  be 
kept  from  shrivelling.  Generally  speaking, 
plump  shoots  slightly  thinner  than  an  ordinary 
lead  pencil  are  the  best  to  choose.  Keep  an  eye 
on  the  Strawberry-bed,  as  weeds  frequently 
appear  quickly  during  a  spell  of  mild  weather. 
These  should,  of  course,  be  pulled  up  and  taken 


away,  as  they  are  undoubtedly  robbing  the  soil 
of  nutriment  which  would  be  made  use  of  by  the 
Strawberries  later  on. 

Vegetable  Oarden. — Onions  in  store  will  need 
looking  over  at  this  time,  as  it  is  almost  certain 
that  some  will  be  showing  signs  of  decay.     All 


Everyone  who  thinks  for  a  moment  must  be 
convinced  of  the  unsatisfactory  conditions  pre- 
vailing in  most  rooms  during  the  winter  season, 
and  to  keep  foliage  plants  in  good  health  during 
this  period  must  necessitate  constant  attention 
to  their  requirements.  Accumulations  of  dust  and 
_  dirt  on  the  leaves  of  room  plants  are  inevitable, 

such  should  be  removed  and,  if  too  far  gone  to   and  as  plants  breathe  through  their  leaves,  the 


be  made  use  of,  burned  or  otherwise  destroyed. 
Where  the  Onions  were  roped  at  the  time  of 
gathering,  as  advised  on  this  page,  they  will  be 
keeping  better  than  those  stored  in  boxes, 
although  if  the  latter  are  shallow,  so  that  the 
bulbs  are  only  one  thick,  they  will  keep 
moderately  well.  A  cool,  airy  place  where  frost 
is  just  kept  out  is  the  best  for  storing.     Many 


reader  will  at  once  appreciate  the  need  for  the 
persistent  lemoval  of  such  undesirable  accumu- 
lations. The  leaves  of  Palms,  Dracaenas, 
Pterises,  Aspidistras  and  similar  subjects  should 
be  sponged  frequently.  Tepid  water  should  be 
used  for  this  purpose,  and  both  sides  of  the 
leaves  should  be  sponged  ;  twice  a  week  is  not 
too   often  to   treat    the   plants  to  this   whole- 


people  prefer  Parsnips  that  are  freshly  dug  to  ;  some  cleansing.     In  really  mild  weather  give  the 


those  that  have  been  stored,  and  to  facilitate 
lifting  during  frosty  weather  the  bed  should  be 
covered  with  a  6-inch  thick  layer  of  Bracken  or 
strawy  material,  otherwise  the  ground  will  often 
be  frozen  too  hard  to  allow  one  to  lift  the  roots. 
Where  Globe  Artichokes  are  grown,  the  plants 
should  be  protected  from  frost  by  mulching 
around  them  with  long,  strawy  manure  or  other 
cold  resisting  material,  as  the  plants  are  likely  to 
suffer  if  subjected  to  a  prolonged  spell  of  frost. 


plants  a  good  syringing  outdoors,  allowing  them 
to  remain  there  a  short  period  to  drain.  When 
syringing  the  plants  outdoors  use  tepid  water. 

Watering,  too,  is  another  most  important  item 
of  culture,  and  yet  it  is  a  matter  that  is  little 
understood  by  the  majority  of  those  who  wish  to 
make  the  most  of  their  room  plants.  More  Ferns 
and  other  beautiful-foliaged  plants  are  lost 
through  ignorance  in  watering  than  probably 
from  any  other  cause.  Almost  invariably  the 
plants  are  either  overwatered  or  allowed  to  get 
Tri  es  and  Shrnh8. — During  frosty  weather,  so  dry  that  they  can  never  be  watered  satisfac- 
when  a  good  deal  of  other  work  cannot  be  done,  torily  by  the  ordinary  method.  So  many  persons 
attention  should  be  given  to  those  trees  and  \  seem  to  think  that  plants  indoors  need  to  be 
shrubs  that  need  it.  In  the  case  of  old  speei-  watered  so  many  times  a  week,  periodical 
mens,  there  are  often  dead  branches  to  be  i  waterings  in  their  opinion  being  the  one  thing  to 
removed,  and  this  can  now  be  attended  to.  In  bear  in  mind.  There  is  no  greater  fallacy.  A 
cutting  them  away  do  not  leave  any  projecting  plant  should  be  watered  only  when  it  is  in 
snags,  and,  if  possible,  cut  well  into  live  wood,  I  need  of  a  supply  through  becoming  dry  or  some- 
as  the  wound  will  then  have  a  chance  of  healing.  |  what  dry  at  the  roots,  and  I  wish  to  emphasise 
Pare  the  cut  surface  smoothly  and  then  coat  i  the  importance  of  observing  this  rule  most 
with  Stockholm  or  coal  tar.  Transplanting  may  |  rigidly.  When  the  soil  is  dry — not  dust  dry — 
be  done  when  the  weather  is  not  frosty,  choosing  i  give  the  plant  a  thorough  soaking,  so  that  roots 
the  hardiest  kinds  for  removal  at  this  season,  and  soil  are  both  moistened  throughout.  Should 
Should  hard  frost  set  in  shortly  after  this  moving,  |  any  plants  have  been  neglected  and  become  so 
it  will  be  well  to  mulch  over  the  roots  of  the   dry  that  the  ball  of  soil  and  roots  will  quite 


newly     planted     specimens    with    some    littery 
material,  as  if  this  is  not  done  even  the  hardiest 
kinds  are  apt  to  sufifer  when  they  have  recently 
been  disturbed.     See  that  birds  do  not  steal  the 
berries   of   Holly   and   other    trees    and    shrubs 
needed    for    Christmas    decorations.      In    some 
eases,  especially  during  very  cold  weather,  it  is 
necessary    to    net    the    plants    to 
make  sure  of  a  good  supply.   Sprays 
of    bright- berried  plants    intended 
for  decoration   should  not  be    out 
earlier    than  is    absolutely    neces- 
sary, or  the  fruits  will  lose   much 
of  their  lustre.  H. 


readily  shake  out  of  the  pot,  such  plants  should 
be  stood  in  a  vessel  of  slightly  tepid  water  until 
they  are  thoroughly  saturated.  When  plants  are 
watered  too  frequently,  i.e.,  given  water  when 
they  do  not  really  need  it,  they  often  suffer 
in  consequence  of  the  soil  becoming  soured. 
When  watering,  always  remember  that  the  small 


PLANTS  FOR  ROOM   DECORA- 
TION AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 

Some  months  ago  I  dealt  with  a 
series  of  plants  that  were  specially 
well  adapted  for  room  decoration ; 
but  as  they  embraced  only  a  few 
of  the  many  beautiful  subjects  that 
have  been  tested  and  used  for  this 
purpose,  a  further  series  of  good 
things  may  be  welcomed  by  the 
reader  who  is  a  beginner  in  plant 
culture.  The  present  occasion  seems 
to  be  most  opportune  for  calling 
attention  to  room  plants,  because 
the  dull  and  dreary  winter  days 
are  now  with  us,  and  we  naturally 
desire  to  make  our  homes  as  bright 
and  attractive  as  possible  by  the 
aid  of  plants  in  variety  that  are 
inexpensive  and,  therefore,  within 
the  reach  of  all, 


2. — AN  ELEGANT  FERN,  PTERIS  TRBMULA,  THAT  WILL 
STAND  ROUGH  USAGE,  AND  IS  THEREFORE  St7ITABI,B 
FOR  GROWING   IN   BOOMS. 


Dhcbmotr  18,  1909.] 


THE    GABDEN. 


619 


3. — AN  ELEGANT  PALJI,  COCOS  WEDDELLIANA, 
WHICH  MUST  NOT  BE  SCEJECTED  TO  COLD 
DBAUOHTS. 

space  between  the  surface  soil  and  the  rim  of 
the  pot  is  often  quite  insufficient  to  meet  the 
requirements  of  the  plant  when  filled  once  only  ; 
it  may  be  necessary  10  fill  this  space  two  or  three 
times  in  succession.  Also,  remember  to  keep  the 
plants  out  of  draughts,  as  this  is  a  constant  source 
of  failure.  The  reader  will  readily  understand 
what  must  be  the  state  of  plants  in  rooms  when 
the  atmosphere  is  hot  and  dry  owing  to  the 
presence  of  fires  and  gas  and  to  the  vitiated 
character  of  such  conditions.  Doors  and  windows 
left  open  so  that  a  draught  is  created  must 
necessarily  cause  currents  of  cold  air  to  do 
considerable  harm  to  the  plants  ;  for  this  reason 
avoid  draughts. 

Light  is  an  important  factor  in  maintaining 
room  plants  in  good  health.  All  too  frequently 
room  plants  are  disposed  a  long  way  from  the 
light  of  the  window,  in  which  circumstances 
they  must  suffer.  The  absence  of  light  causes 
the  plants  to  sicken  and  become  weakly,  so  for 
this  reason  they  should  be  accorded  light 
situations  from  time  to  time  to  recuperate. 

Ventilation  is  also  a  matter  of  much  importance. 
Even  in  the  coldest  weather  the  windows  should 
be  opened  slightly,  especially  in  rooms  where  gas 
is  burned.  Unless  this  rule  is  observed,  some  of 
the  more  tender  Ferns  and  other  of  the  choicer 
foliaged  plants  will  most  certainly  suffer. 
Always  use  slightly  tepid  water  when  watering 
room  plants  in  the  cold  months  of  the  year,  and 
never  allow  any  plants  to  stand  in  saucers  of 
water,  as  so  many  growers  are  prone  to  do  ;  this 
causes  the  roots  to  rot  and  the  plants  to  fail. 

In  continuing  the  series  of  room  plants  that 
were  dealt  with  in  The  Garden  of  June  .5  last, 
I  will  call  attention  to  the  Dracaenas.  These  are 
handsome  foliage  plants,  many  of  which  are  well 
suited  for  room  decoration.  They  are  not  diffi- 
cult to  cultivate,  especially  the  green-leaved 
kinds.  As  readers  may  wish  to  repot  their  plants 
after  the  winter  is  past,  they  will  be  glad  to 
know  this  work  may  be  done  in  March.  A  suit- 
able compost  in  which  to  grow  this  subject 
should  comprise  two  parts  of  peat,  one  of  loam 
and  one  of  charcoal  and  silver  sand,  all  well 
mixed  together.  Good  species  are  D.  australis 
(a  very  elegant  plant),  D.  indivisa,  D.  gracilis, 
D.  rubra  and  others. 

Fig.  2  represents  one  of  the  most  graceful  of 
the  many  delightful  Pterises  that  are  grown. 
The  plant  under  notice  is  largely  grown  by 
market  men,  and  is  generally  known  as  Pteris 
tremula  smithiana.    As  the  illustration  faithfully 


portrays,  it  is  a  charming  plant,  but  does  not  like 
a  vitiated  atmosphere,  such  as  that  which  pre- 
vails in  a  gas-lit  room.  For  this  reason  the  plants 
should  be  removed  when  the  gas  is  used.  The 
tender  fronds  soon  wither  and  fail,  but  in  ordinary 
conditions  the  plant  will  succeed  very  well.  The 
plants  are  usually  repotted  in  March,  and  if  a 
compost  of  loam  and  leaf -mould  be  used,  with  the 
free  admixture  of  silver  sand  and  a  sprinkling  of 
charcoal,  the  roots  will  respond  very  readily. 
Other  good  and  interesting  Pterises  are  P. 
serrulata  densa,  P.  Victorise,  P.  Mayii,  P. 
Wimsettii,  P.  cretica,  P.  c.  albo-lineata  and 
many  others. 

Cocos  weddelliana  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most 
graceful  of  all  Palms ;  but,  because  of  its 
slightly  higher  cost  and  possibly  its  less  hardy 
character,  it  is  not  so  often  met  with  as  are  many 
other  plants.  No  one  can  deny  its  beauty,  how- 
ever, as  a  glance  at  the  illustration  will  show. 
Considerable  care  needs  to  be  taken  to  keep  this 
plant  in  condition,  and  it  must  not  be  subjected 
to  great  variations  of  temperature  ;  neither  does 
the  plant  do  well  in  gas-lit  rooms.  With  due 
care  for  its  requirements,  there  should  not  be 
much  difficulty  in  maintaining  the  plant  in  a 
healthy  state.  Fig.  3  shows  a  small  plant  in  a 
6-inch  pot.  Since  last  used  indoors  this  specimen 
has  been  kept  in  a  greenhouse  not  by  any  means 
warm.  In  frosty  weather  see  that  this  Cocos  is 
kept  away  from  the  window,  or  it  will  soon 
begin  to  fail.  This  is  one  of  those  plants  that 
need  to  be  placed  in  a  greenhouse  from  time  to 
time  to  recuperate. 

Fig.  4  represents  a  Davallia,  in  which  class  of 
plants  there  are  so  many  interesting  and  pleasing 
forms.  Many  of  them  are  fairly  easy  to  manage. 
Most  of  the  greenhouse  species  are  suited  for 
room  culture,  provided  gas  is  not  burned.  The 
rhizomes  from  which  the  leaves  are  evolved  are 
curious  and  interesting,  and,  in  consequence  of 
their  peculiar  character  of  growth,  the  plants 
develop  beautifully  in  baskets.  Some  of  the 
better  species  are  D.  pallida  (syn.  D.  mooreana), 
D.  buUata  (Squirrel's-foot  Fern),  D.  Mariesii, 
D.  canariensis  (Hare's-foot  Fern)  and  a  fewothers. 
Some  growers  may  argue  that  the  Davallias  are 
not  suited  for  room  decoration, 
but  I  am  convinced,  if  care  be 
observed  to  keep  the  plants  moist, 
they  will  do  very  well.      D.  B.  C. 


moist  while  the  soil  in  the  body  of  the  pot  was 
getting  very  dry.  Leave  all  top-dressing  and 
repotting  work  until  the  early  part  of  the  new 
year. 

Clean  Pots. — All  flower-pots  must  be  kept 
clean.  A  pot  well  washed  and  free  from  the 
green,  slimy  substance  so  often  seen  is  not 
at  all  an  eyesore,  but  a  dirty  pot  is.  More- 
over, a  soiled  pot  is  inimical  to  the  good  health 
of  the  plant,  but  a  clean  one  is  beneficial.  If 
there  is  much  difficulty  in  getting  rid  of  the 
green,  slimy  substance  by  merely  washing  and 
scrubbing  with  clear  water,  rub  on  a  little  dry, 
unslaked  lime  first,  let  it  remain  on  for  about 
twenty-four  hours,  and  then  use  the  clear  water 
and  the  scrubbing  brush. 

Sponging  Leaves. — There  is  no  time  more 
opportune  for  the  work  of  sponging  the  leaves  of 
foliage  plants  than  the  present.  The  leaves  are 
firm  and  tough  now,  having  matured  after  a 
season's  growth,  and  so  any  insecticide  used  will 
not  be  so  liable  to  injure  them,  while  the  insect 
pests  are  readily  destroyed.  Even  when  the 
leaves  of  such  plants  as  Dracsenas,  Aspidistras 
and  Fieus  elastioa  are  free  from  insects,  it  is 
wise  to  sponge  them  with  clean,  tepid  water 
occasionally,  as  it  keeps  them  free  from  dust  and 
more  healthy. 

Tying  Up  Climebks. — In  a  few  hours  much 
valuable  work  may  be  done  among  the  climbing 
plants  in  the  greenhouse.  Where  the  branches 
are  overcrowded,  some  of  the  weakest  may  be  cut 
out  altogether,  the  foliage  of  the  others  cleaned, 
and  all  then  neatly  re-tied  to  the  wires. 

Bulbs. — Much  interest  is  now  centred  in  the 
bulbs  in  pots.  The  earliest  batches  will  be  ready 
to  bring  out  from  their  covering  material.  This 
work  must  be  done  very  gradually ;  it  will  not  do 
to  suddenly  expose  the  bulbs  and  their  young 
blanched  shoots  to  the  full  light  and  air,  else  a 
serious  check  will  be  given.  When  the  young 
shoots  are  about  2  inches  long,  they  are  quite  fit 
to  be  brought  out  from  the  ashes,  and  the  first 
position  in  which  the  pots  should  be  placed  is  one 
in  a  frame.  All  inverted  pots  may  be  removed, 
but  the  glass  must  be  covered  with  a  mat  or  some 
old  sacks  for  several  days  to  exclude  light  and 


TOWN    GARDEN. 


OREENHOnSE  AND  FRAME  PLANTS. 

The  floral  beauty  of  the  garden 
will  now  be  confined  mainly  to 
the  two  structures  above  named. 
Much  pleasure  can  be  obtained  by 
simply  rearranging  the  plants  on 
the  stages.  If  the  work  is  care- 
fully done,  the  plants  will  be  con- 
siderably benefited  by  such  re- 
arrangement, too,  as  some  speci 
mens  will  be  brought  to  the  light 
more  fully.  It  is  not  a  wise  plan 
to  mix  together  both  plants  that 
are  in  full  flower  and  those  that 
are  just  forming  their  flower-buds. 
Plants  bearing  flower-buds  need 
keeping  fully  exposed  to  the  light, 
as  well  as  others — more  so  in  many 
instances — that  have  their  blossoms 
fully  open.  Then  it  is  important 
that  no  green  moss  be  allowed  to 
cover  the  surface  of  the  soil  in 
the  pots ;  but  where  moss  has  already 
accumulated,  the  best  way  to  remove  it  is 
by  using  a  pointed  stick,  with  which  the  top 
thin  layer  of  soil  must  be  removed  with  the 
moss  itself.  Do  not  put  on  top-dressing  soil  at 
this  season,  as  it  would  not  serve  any  useful 
purpose,  and  certainly  it  would  hamper  the 
cultivator  in  the  work  of  watering,  as  the  added 
compost  would  often  appear,  and  really  be,  quite 


4.— A 


SPECIMEN    DAVALLIA,    WHICH   JNtAKBS    A    GOOD 
PLANT   WHEN   IT  CAN  EE  KEPT  SIOIST.  I 


sunshine.  Then  air  must  be  admitted  and  the 
mats  removed  as  the  young  shoots  commence  to 
turn  green.  From  the  frame  the  plants  should  be 
taken  to  the  greenhouse  or  the  dwelling-room 
window.  Water  at  all  times  with  great  care, 
and  give  some  stimulating  food  when  the  flower- 
stems  begin  to  show  freely  ;  this  will  strengthen 
the  latter  and  finer  flowers  will  result.  The  best 
position  for  the  growing  bulbs  in  the  greenhouse 


620 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  December  18,  1909. 


is  on  a  shelf  near  the  root  glass  at  first.  Here  a 
very  sturdy  growth  of  stem,  leaves  and  flowers 
will  be  encouraged,  and  then  the  plants  will  be 
all  the  more  fit  to  be  placed  on  a  lower  stage, 
where  the  final  flowering  should  take  place. 
Bulbs  that  are  first  started  in  boxes,  and  after- 
wards transferred  to  flower-pots,  should  be  so 
shifted  while  they  are  young ;  that  is,  before  the 
flower-spikes  get  far  advanced.  If  the  work  is 
then  very  carefully  done,  the  plants  will  not  suffer 
any  serious  cheek.  By  bringing  on  the  plants 
in  batches  a  constant  display  of  blossom  will 
result.  Avon. 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES  FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 
Questions  and  Ansvreps.— The  Editor  mteiids 
to  make  The  Garden  helpful  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance,  iio  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  nmy 
he,  aivi  vnth  that  object  will  make  a  special  feature  of  the 
**  Answers  to  Correspondents"  column.  All  communica- 
tions should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  of  The 
Garden,  '20,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  shotild  be  sent  to  the  Publisher. 
The  name  and  address  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  m  the 
paper.  When  trwre  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
he  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GARDEN. 
Planting  a  herbaceous    bopdep 

{J.  Oibsoii). — In  a  6-feet-wide  border  you  would 
have  room  for,  say,  three  rows  of  groups,  a  group 
to  consist  of  three  or  five  plants  usually  to  give 
effect ;  or,  if  you  prefer  it,  a  greater  variety  of 
single  plants  might  prove  more  serviceable  if  a 
little  less  effective.  In  the  back  row  you  might 
have  Hollyhocks,  Asters  Novje-Angli*  Mrs.  F. 
W.  Rayner,  W.  Bowman  and  pulchellus,  with 
such  Larkspurs  as  La  France,  Lize,  Carmen  and 
Mme.  Violet  Geslin.  Till  Sunflowers  for  the 
same  row  would  include  Miss  Hellish,  multi- 
florus  maximuB  and  tomentosus.  Budbeokia 
Autumn  Glory,  Bocoonia  cordata  and  Aconitum 
Wilsonii  would  also  be  suitable  in  this  line.  In 
the  second  row,  Anchusa  italica  Dropmore 
variety,  white  perennial  Pea,  white  and  blue 
Lupinus  polyphyllus.  Lychnis  chalcedonioa, 
Lilium  candidum,  L.  testaceum.  Phlox  Mrs.  E. 
H.  Jenkins,  Phlox  Flambeau,  Scabiosa  caucasica, 
S.  c.  alba,  Veronica  subsessilis.  Iris  aurea,  I. 
Monnieri,  Lychnis  pycnostachya,  Helenium  River- 
ton  Gem,  Gaillardia  grandiflora,  Aquilegia  chry- 
santha,  TroUius  Orange  Globe,  Eryngium  oliveri- 
anum.  Campanula  grandis,  C.  g.  alba,  C.  persioi- 
folia  grandiflora.  Aster  eordifolius  Ideal,  A.  o. 
major,  A.  Novi-Belgii  Arctutus,  A.  N.-B.  William 
Marshall,  Anemone  japonica,  A.  j.  alba,  Cimici- 
fuga  simplex  and  the  like.  In  the  front  row 
might  appear  Aster  acris,  A.  laevigatus,  A. 
Amellus,  Sedum  speetabile,  Armeria  Cephalotes, 
Anemone  sylvestris.  Campanula  Moerheimii,  C. 
carpatica,  Achillea  alpina,  single  and  double 
Pyrethrums,  Irises  of  the  Flag  section  in  variety, 
Clove  Carnations,  Geum  ooccineum  fl.-pl.,  G. 
Heldreichii.Heucherasanguinea  Walker's  variety, 
H.  Flambeau,  Rudbeekia  Newmanii,  Stenactis 
speciosa,  Thalictrum  aquilegifolium,  Statice  lati- 
folia  and  others,  with  such  Narcissi  as  Emperor, 
Sir  Watkin,  Barri  conspicuus,  P.  R.  Barr,  Empress 
and  Golden  Spur  in  breaks  between  the  plant 
groups.  It  is  possible,  too,  you  might  have 
room  for  marginal  plants,  such  as  Aubrietias, 
Megaseas,  alpine  Phlox,  mossy  Saxifrages, 
Hepaticas  and  the  like.  Remove  the  fruiting 
rods  of  the  Loganberries  each  year,  and  retain 
the  strongest  of  the  newly  made  shoots  for  next 
season's  fruiting.  The  growths  may  be  trained 
to  poles  erect,  to  wire-strained  fences  or  to 
walls,  as  is  the  most  convenient.     \'ou  cannot 


improve  very  much  upon  well-decayed  horse  or 
stable  manure  for  the  Strawberry  patch. 

Ppopa^atlng  Lithospepmum  ppostpatum 

{An  Old  Siibucriber). — August  and  .September  or  April 
and  May,  provided  always  that  young  and  unflowered 
shoots  are  employed,  are  the  best  times,  and  the  best 
material  is  the  young  shoots  of  -  inches  in  length  that  are 
capable  of  being  torn  from  the  parent  stem,  each  with  a 
heel  attached.  If  such  as  these  are  detached  as  suggested, 
they  may  be  inserted  without  further  preparation.  A  cold 
frame  or  cool  greenhouse  is  best,  but  the  cuttings  must 
not  be  exposed  to  direct  sunlight.  Finely  sifted  peat,  loam 
and  sand  in  equal  parts  make  an  ideal  mixture,  or  the 
cuttings  may  be  inserted  in  pure  sand. 

Tpeatment  of  the  Belladonna  LUy  (Juseph 
Bacon). — The  flower  yuu  send  is  Amaryllis  Belladonna, 
commonly  known  as  the  Belladonna  Lily.  We  do  not  quite 
understand  what  your  treatment  has  been,  and  your  refer- 
ence to  "  four  boxes  of  them  "  is  not  helpful.  If  you  are 
growing  these  in  boxes  instead  of  pots  or  tubs,  it  is  highly 
probable  that  the  plants  are  more  or  less  starved.  The 
tuba  for  these  should  be  of  good  size,  so  that  the  bulbs 
could  be  buried  <;,  inches  deep.  The  soil  should  be  rich 
and  mixed  with  sand  and  old  mortar.  Generous  feeding 
of  the  plants  with  manure-water  should  be  given  through- 
out the  period  of  growth,  with  abundant  supplies  of  root 
moisture  also.  When  growth  is  completed  the  plants 
should  be  rested  iu  the  hottest  and  sunniest  position  at 
your  command,  and  given  this  treatment  the  bulbs  should 
flower,  provided  that  a  vigorous,  unchecked  growth  has 
been  made.  Without  seeing  the  plants  we  can  only  sur- 
mise the  cause  of  the  failure,  but  perhaps  in  what  we  have 
said  you  might  discover  some  useful  hint.  If  not,  write 
us  again  giving  fuller  particulars. 

Flowfeps  fop  wood  and  shpubbepy  (Hecate). 
You  need  have  no  misgivings  about  planting  any  of  the 
subjects  you  name,  provided  there  is  sutticient  depth  of 
soil  present  and  that  the  ground  is  not  too  dry  in  summer- 
time. The  St.  Mrigid  Anemones  would  be  best  near  the 
margins,  while  the  Tulips  should  thinly  spread  themselves, 
as  it  were,  over  a  more  extended  area  of  ground.  Many  of 
the  cheaper  Daffodils  should  do  admirably,  while  Lilium 
pardalinum,  L.  candidum  and  others  would  show  to 
advantage.  Any  Clematis  should  occupy  a  sunny  position 
where  the  plants  might  ramble  over  tree  or  shrub,  while 
Evening  Primroses  should  be  added  to  the  other  plants 
you  already  possess.  Rope,  that  is,  hempen  rope,  would 
last  for  a  time,  but  sooner  or  later  it  would  decay  at  the 
point  of  fixture  with  the  supports,  and  your  display  would 
be  lost.  Chains  would  be  better  and  would  remain 
unaffected  by  the  changes  of  weather.  To  obtain  tall 
standards  for  the  Rose,  a  few  very  tall  Briar  stocks  should 
lie  grown  for  the  purpose,  and  when  matured  and  of  the 
right  height  budded  in  the  usual  way. 


TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 
Hints  on  planting:  trees  (Germany). 

If  you  can  obtain  some  fairly  good  loamy  soil 
to  add  to  your  natural  soil  for  the  trees  you 
propose  planting,  it  will  be  far  better  than  using 
manure.  Leaf-mould  is  a  good  rooting  medium, 
but  not  fresh  manure.  Trench  the  ground  well 
to  a  depth  of  2  feet,  taking  out  6  inches  or 
S  inches  of  the  natural  soil  trom  the  bottom  of 
each  trench,  and  make  up  the  deficiency  by 
mixing  good  loam  with  the  other  soil.  Any 
manure  you  have  may  be  applied  as  a  mulch  next 
May.  Tilia  dasystyla  is  a  very  good  dense- 
growing  tree,  but  no  quicker  growing  than  the 
Horse  Chestnut,  and  it  is  quite  likely  that  the 
latter  will  be  the  best  tree  for  you  to  use.  If 
you  decide  to  use  any  manure,  use  well-rotted 
farmyard  material,  and  place  it  in  such  a  position 
that  the  roots  will  not  come  in  contact  with  it 
for  some  time. 

Infopmatlon  about  shpubs  {Jame^  Robertson). 
In  New  Zealand  Metrosideros  robusta  is  known  as  *'  The 
Rata."  The  name,  however,  is  not  held  by  that  plant 
alone,  for  from  the  "Index  to  Native  and  Scientific 
Names,"  by  Dr.  Forbes  Watson,  we  learn  that,  in  Cyngha- 
lese,  Oryza  sativa  (the  Rice)  is  known  under  the  name  of 
"  Rata"  ;  while  the  Ghorkas  call  .Yanthochymus  pictorius 
(Garcinia  Xanthochymus)  *'  Rata."  Rata  is  also  used  in 
conjunction  with  numerous  other  words  to  form  a  long 
series  of  compound  names  for  various  plants. 

Ppotectlng  Hydpanseas  {B  yd  rannea).— The 
common  Hydrangea  needs  protection  during  the  winter  as 
far  south  as  London,  for,  even  though  the  plants  may  not 
be  killed  outright,  the  terminal  buds  are  likely  to  suffer 
and  consequently  the  flowers  will  be  but  few.  The  ques- 
tion  of  Hydrangeas  producing  blue  flowers  has  given  rise 
to  a  good  deal  of  controversy,  for,  however  treated,  success 
is  not  always  certain.  The  most  successful  methods  are 
watering  the  plants  about  twice  a  week  with  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  a  teaspoonfnl  being  dissolved  in  a  gallon 
of  water,  or  loz.  of  alum  to  a  gallon  of  water.  To  prepare 
the  alum  it  should  be  first  crushed  and  dissolved  in  a  little 
hot  water. 

Evepgpeen  cUtnbeps  fop  vrall  (Emiuircr).— 
The  covering  of  a  wall  with  flowering  evergreen  climbing 
plants  is  not  an  easy  matter,  and  is  rendered  the  more 


dilBcult  by  your  mention  of  Roses  in  particular.  Seeing 
that  those  species  and  varieties  which  are  most  nearly 
akin  to  evergreen  are  not  well  suited  for  growing  on  a 
wall  unless  it  be  of  unusual  height— and  of  this  you  tell 
us  nothing— one  of  the  best  of  Roses  for  a  wall  is  the 
white-flowered  Aimie  Albert,  and  established  plants  of  it 
will  be  covered  with  its  blooms  and  often  reach  to 
12  feet  or  Is  feet  across.  W.  A.  Richardson  is  excellent 
on  a  wall,  if  not  in  too  hot  a  position.  The  Wistaria  is  a 
lovely  wall  plant  alone,  and  should  be  more  frequently 
employed,  as  nothing  can  surpass  its  mauve-coloured 
trusses  when  in  bloom.  Jasminum  officinale  afflne  is  a  grand 
plant,  while  Escallonia  macrantha.  Ceanothus  rigidus, 
C.  veitchianus  and  C.  Gloire  de  Versailles  are  all  admirable. 
Azara  microphylla,  Crat;egus  Pyracantha,  Choisya  teraata 
and  the  variegated  form  of  Euonymus  radicans  are  all 
excellent  for  wall  covering.  If  these  are  not  likely  to  suit 
you,  please  write  us  again  stating  the  height  of  the  wall 
and  its  aspect. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

Euchapls  going:  wrong:  (S.  H.  Baker). 
It  is  more  than  probable  that  the  roots  of  your 
Eucharis  are  in  a  bad  state,  and  if  such  is  the 
case,  no  applications  of  mite-killer,  or  anything  in 
that  way,  will  have  a  beneficial  effect.  We 
advise  you  to  keep  the  plants  as  they  are 
till  February,  taking  care  not  to  over-water 
them,  as  an  excess  of  moisture  quickly  causes 
even  healthy  roots  to  decay.  Then  towards  the 
latter  part  of  February  the  plants  must  be 
thoroughly  taken  in  hand.  First  turn  the  plants 
out  of  their  pots  and  shake  off  as  much  as  possible 
of  the  old  soil.  Then  wash  the  bulbs  and  roots 
quite  clean  in  tepid  water,  and  lay  them  on  a 
bench  for  an  hour  or  two  to  drain.  By  washing 
the  roots  you  will  be  able  to  ascertain  their  con- 
dition exactly,  and  it  is  very  probable  that  many 
of  them  will  be  more  or  less  decayed.  All  such 
must  be  cut  clean  away,  leaving  only  the  quite 
sound  roots  attached  to  the  bulbs,  after  which 
they  must  be  repotted.  For  this  purpose  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  have  pots  too  large,  and  in 
all  probability  they  may,  with  advantage,  be  con- 
siderably smaller  than  those  in  which  the  plants 
have  been  growing,  for  the  all-important  item  is 
to  encourage  healthy  root-action,  which  can 
never  take  place  if  the  bulbs  are  surrounded  by 
a  large  mass  of  soil.  The  pots  must  be  quite 
clean  and  effectually  drained,  a  suitable  potting 
compost  being  two  parts  yellow  loam  to  one  part 
of  leaf-mould  and  nearly  a  part  of  rough  silver 
sand.  In  potting,  the  bulbs  should  be  put  at 
such  a  depth  that  the  upper  part  or  crown  is  just 
on  a  level  with  the  surface  of  the  soil,  which 
must  be  pressed  down  moderately  firm.  When 
finished,  place  the  plants  in  a  stove  where  a  night 
temperature  of  BO"  is  maintained,  rising,  of 
course,  during  the  day.  If  they  can  be  plunged 
in  a  gentle  bottom-heat,  so  much  the  better.  'The 
plants  must  be  shaded  from  the  sun's  rays,  and 
care  taken  not  to  over- water,  at  all  events,  till  the 
roots  are  again  active,  though  a  liberal  amount 
of  atmospheric  moisture  will  be  beneficial.  As 
new  roots  form  and  take  possession  of  the  soil, 
the  foliage  will  gradually  assume  a  more  healthy 
tint  and  become  firmer  in  texture,  after  which 
the  mite  is  not.  likely  to  trouble  you.  Healthy 
plants  do  not  need  as  much  shading  as  sickly 
ones,  but,  in  any  case,  they  require  protection 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Very  little  fire-heat  is 
needed  during  the  summer  months,  but  in  winter 
a  minimum  night  temperature  of  55"  should  be 
maintained,  rising,  of  course,  10°  or  so  during  the 
day. 

Infopmatlon  about  Hydpang-eas  (C.  B.  3/.). 
Of  the  Hydrangeas  concerning  which  you  enquire.  Mariesii 
is  as  hardy  as  the  common  kind.  It  should,  during 
the  winter,  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible,  apart  from  actual 
frost,  and  the  soil  must  not  be  allowed  to  get  too  dry, 
though,  of  course,  it  will  not  need  anything  near  the  same 
amount  of  water  as  when  growing  freely.  Hydrangea 
paniculata  is  absolutely  hardy,  and  the  plant  will  be  all 
the  better  if  plunged  out  of  doors  during  the  winter. 
Then  about  the  end  of  February  the  plant  may  be  pruned. 
In  pruning,  last  year's  shoots  should  be  cut  back  to  within 
two  or  three  eyes  of  the  tjase,  and  any  weak  and  exhausted 
wood  cut  out.  This  need  not  be  taken  into  the  conserva- 
tory till  the  buds  are  visible,  but,  of  course,  it  must  be 
well  supplied  with  water  after  growth  recommences, while 
an  occasional  dose  of  liquid  manure  will  be  helpful. 
Hydrangea  Mariesii  will  need  no  pruning  unless  it  is 
crowded  with  weak  shoots,  in  which  case  they  may,  during 
the  winter,  be  thinned  out.  It  may  be  started  in  the 
dsring.     The  Spirieas  may  be  started  again  in  February. 


December  18,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


621 


Names  and  infopination  aoout  Opchids 

(5.  Clarke). — The  enclosed  flower  is  Dendrobium  Ains- 
worthii,  a  garden  hybrid,  the  parents  being  D.  nobile  and 
D.aureum  or  heterocarpum,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  The 
pseudo-bulb  (No.  2)  is,  we  think,  a  species  of  Eria,  several 
of  which  are  natives  of  the  Himalayan  district,  but,  of 
course,  without  further  information  it  is  impossible  to  say 
more.  It  may  be  Eria  convallarioides.  Specimen  No.  3  is 
Dendrobium  densiftorum,  a  beautiful  rich  yellow-flowered 
species.  The  eyes  towards  the  apex  of  the  pseudo-bulb 
are  quite  natural  and  contain  the  flower-clusters  in 
embiyo.  When  in  this  stage  the  plants  should  be  kept 
quite  dry  at  the  roots  in  a  temperature  of  55'^  to  05*  till 
the  flowers  begin  to  push,  when  they  must  be  watered, 
increasing  the  supply  as  the  blossoms  develop. 

Bouvapdlas  groin^r  w^pong  (C.  M.  ir.).— The 
leaves  of  the  Bouvardias  turning  brown  is  undoubtedly 
caused  by  an  error  in  cultivation,  but  what  it  is  we  are,  of 
course,  unable  to  say.  It  may  be  caused  by  a  smoky 
atmosphere,  while  Bouvardias  are  particularly  susceptible 
to  injury  from  sulphur-laden  fogs  which  prevail  in  the 
London  district  during  autumn  and  winter.  A  slight 
escape  of  sulphur  from  the  greenhouse  tire  may  cause  the 
injury  complained  of.  A  book  that  we  can  strongly 
recommend  is  "The  Perpetual  Flowering  Carnation,"  by 
Montagu  C.  AUwood,  price  2s.  3d. 

Winteping  Cannas  {Roystoii).—Youv  better  plan 
will  be  to  take  up  the  Cannas  without  further  delay, 
choosing,  if  possible,  a  dry  day  for  the  purpose.  Then  cut 
oft"  the  stems  at  about  t5  inches  from  the  roots,  which  last 
should  he  laid  out  on  a  greenhouse  stag«,  or  in  a  shed 
where  they  will  be  safe  from  frost,  for  a  few  days  to  dry. 
When  dry  most  of  the  soil  will  come  off  from  the  rhizomes, 
which  should  then  be  laid  in  pans  or  shallow  boxes  and 
covered  with  dry  soil.  They  may  then  be  wintered  in  a 
greenhouse,  frost-proof  shed-or  cellar.  No  water  will  be 
required  till  the  new  year,  and  then  only  in  the  event  of 
the  soil  being  dust  dry.  If  you  have  a  greenhouse 
available  they  may  be  potted  about  the  end  of  February, 
and  will  then  be  good  plants  by  bedding-out-time.  Should 
you  desire  to  increase  the  stock,  the  plants  may,  in  potting, 
be  divided  into  two  or  more  pieces.  You  are  quite  right 
in  thinking  that  Cannas  will  last  for  several  years.  The 
varieties  whose  blossoms  are  in  colour  yellow,  dotted  more 
or  less  wah  red,  are  somewhat  more  delicate  In  winter 
than  the  others. 


ROSE    GARDEN. 
Ppuningr   Tea    and    Hybrid    Tea 

Roses  {Mrs,  H.  5.). —Yes;  you  will  do 
well  to  prune  the  bushes  as  indicated  in  your 
diagrams.  There  are  always  a  number  of  basal 
eyes  ready  to  break  out,  and  this  severe  pruning 
gives  the  best  results  with  Roses  used  for  bedding 
purposes.  If  the  plants  pass  through  the  winter 
uninjured,  which  is  extremely  doubtful,  you 
could  retain  the  growths  from  5  inches  to  6  inches 
long  and  still  obtain  a  good  display  ;  but  as  a 
rule  the  growths  become  frost-bitten,  and  it  is 
rarely  advisable  to  retain  doubtful  wood.  (2)  If 
the  bone-meal  is  applied  at  pruning-time  this 
would  do.  Give  the  cow-manure  now,  but  we 
should  advise  having  it  covered  with  soil,  either 
by  digging  it  under  the  earth  carefully  or  by 
covering  some  soil  over  it.  (3)  Clematis  Jack- 
manii  should  be  cut  back  to  within  12  inches  or 
18  inches  of  the  base  each  year  if  you  desire  the 
flowers  to  appear  low  down.  If  not  pruned  at  all 
the  blossoms  appear  on  the  top  of  the  growths. 

Fowl-manupe  fop  Roses  {S.  F.  Sem-geant).— 
You  could  very  well  utilise  this  manure  on  the  Kose-beda 
now.  Do  not  put  it  on  too  thickly.  It  would  be  a 
good  plan  to  mix  it  with  the  same  bulk  ot  dry  earth,  and 
then  scatter  the  mixture  on  the  surface,  digging  it  in 
during  the  spring.  If  used  on  the  lawn,  you  should  have 
the  manure  rubbed  up  very  fine  and  mixed  with  some  old 
potting  soil,  all  to  be  passed  through  a  fine  sieve. 

W^attled  hupdles  fop  Roses  {M.  L.  Smyth).-- 
We  do  not  know  where  you  could  procure  these  hurdles, 
but  any  maker  of  the  ordinary  hurdles  would  make  some 
for  you.  Explain  to  him  that  you  require  some  made 
something  after  the  manner  of  a  hamper  lid ;  or  probably 
you  could  get  a  basket-maker  to  supply  them.  We  do  not 
know  where  you  can  obtain  the  frames  with  transparent 
canvas.  The  Willeaden  Canvas  Company  supply  the 
material  which  is  known  as  DuroUne,  and  any  handy-man 
would  make  you  some  frames  to  tack  the  material  on. 

Ppuning  Tea  Roses  {F.  B.).— When  your  plants 
of  Tea  Hoses  become  leggy,  you  should  cut  back  to  the 
ground  some  of  the  older  growth  ;  in  fact,  each  season  one 
or  two  of  the  oldest  growchs  on  each  bush  should  be  cut 
hard  back.  Some  seasons  the  winters  leave  us  no  choice  but 
to  cut  all  back  hard.  An  alternative  plan  is  to  bend  over 
such  growths,  securing  them  nearly  to  the  ground  by 
means  of  string  attached  to  pegs.  New  growths  will 
then  break  up  from  the  base.  This  is  a  good  plan  to  adopt 
with  all  such  Koses  as  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  ;  that  is,  to  peg 
over  one  or  two  growths  each  year,  instead  of  pruning  the 
same  severely.  Old,  worn-out  growths  are  beat  cut  down 
to  the  ground.  If  you  adopt  this  plan  for  a  year  or  two 
you  wlu  soon  bring  the  plants  into  a  bushy  state,    Mildew 


has  been  very  troublesome  in  some  gardens  this  season. 
We  have  found  Cyllin  Soft  Soap  a  good  remedy  if  applied 
persistently. 

Rose  foliag-e  blighted  {S.  F.  Seargeant).—Yom 
Rosea  are  affected  with  what  is  known  as  black  spot.  It 
is  very  prevalent  this  year,  doubtless  owing  to  the 
excessive  wet  we  have  had.  You  should  have  the  leaves 
all  gathered  up  and  burnt,  and  the  surface  soli,  too,  would 
be  all  the  better  if  burnt.  Just  remove  the  top  to  a  depth 
of  about  half  an  inch,  and  having  put  it  on  a  good  fire 
made  with  garden  rubbish,  the  ashes  may  be  returned. 
Next  spring,  after  pruning,  spray  the  plants  with  Bordeaux 
mixture,  and  continue  this  spraying  at  intervals  of  a  week 
or  80  throughout  the  season. 

Roses  attacked  by  fungiXB  {Jsfoi-thumherland). 
The  foliage  sent  appears  to  be  attacked  both  by  orange 
rust  and  sooty  mould.  This  latter  is  caused  by  aphis  and 
is  not  a  parasite,  but  subsists  upon  the  honeydew  de- 
posited by  the  aphis.  If  you  take  care  to  spray  the  plants 
thoroughly  in  spring  and  summer  with  Cyllin  Soft  Soap, 
you  will  keep  this  in  check ;  but  the  orange  rust  will  need 
the  aid  of  a  good  fungicide,  such  as  sulphide  of  potassium, 
spraying  the  plants  as  soon  as  pruned  and  continuing  this 
at  intervals  of  about  ten  days.  All  decayed  foliage  should 
be  picked  oft"  and  burnt,  and  also  any  that  falls  to  the 
ground.  An  inch  or  so  of  top  soil  should  also  be  raked  otf 
the  beds  and  burnt,  then  returned  to  the  beds.  The 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  generally  most  attacked  by  this 
fungus,  and  it  is  advisable  always  to  keep  them  well  apart 
from  other  Koaes. 

Roses  In  tubs  (S.  E.  H).  —  Undoubtedly  the 
China  or  Monthly  Roses  and  the  lovely  Polyantha  tribe  are 
excellent  for  growing  in  tubs.  We  are  pleased  you  have 
been  so  successful.  We  do  not  think  you  would  care  much 
for  Leonie  Lamesch.  It  is  a  wonderful  colour,  but  is 
disappointing  when  expanded.  The  others  you  name  are 
most  beautiful.  We  can  highly  recommend  the  following : 
Perle  d'Or,  Aschenbrddel,  Marie  Pavie,  Aurore  not  Aurora, 
Laurent  Carle,  Harry  Kirk,  Betty,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez, 
Lady  Battersea  and  General  Macarthiu*.  These  possess  the 
habit  more  of  Mme.  Ravary  and  Phyllis,  sorts  that  have 
done  so  well  with  you,  and  you  could  replace  some  of  these 
with  the  sorts  that  have  not  done  so  well.  The  tubs 
already  occupied  with  Roaes  should  be  top-dressed  now. 
Remove  about  2  inches  of  top  soil  and  replace  witli  a 
compost  of  loam  two  parts,  well-decayed  manure  one  part, 
and  bone-meal  at  the  rate  of  21b.  to  a  bushel  of  compost, 
We  presume  you  are  satisfied  the  drainage  is  all  right, 
otherwise  it  should  be  examined  by  turning  the  plants  out 
and  freeing  the  drainage  of  soil :  but  it  will  be  well  to  avoid 
doing  this  if  possible.  The  same  compost  would  be  best 
to  use  for  the  new  Roses. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 

Tomato  spotted  (Perplexed).— l^e  cause 
of  the  spot  on  your  Tomato  fruit  is,  we  think,  not 
disease,  but  the  result  of  the  air  in  the  house 
being  too  cold  and  damp.  The  fruit  is  dead  ripe, 
and  when  in  this  condition  it  is  found  quickly  to 
show  signs  of  decay  in  such  an  atmosphere.  Pre- 
suming you  have  some  hot-water  pipes  in  the 
house,  the  cure  would  be  to  apply  a  little  heat 
in  order  to  keep  the  air  drier  and  warmer.  If 
you  cannot  do  this,  the  best  thing  for  you  to  do 
will  be  to  pluck  ofif  the  fruits  green,  lay  them 
in  single  layers  on  plates  or  boxes,  and  place  in  a 
warm  kitchen  where  the  sun  can  shine  on 
them  if  possible.  You  will  find  they  will  ripen 
all  right  in  this  way. 

Collection    of  six   kinds  of  vegetables 

(Z*.  Fhillips). — Kinds  we  think  are  meant,  not  sorts.  Pro- 
vided the  quality  and  size  of  the  Artichol^es  were  as  good  in 
August  as  in  October,  the  dish  should  carry  a  point  more, 
because  the  Globe  Artichoke  is  very  plentiful  and  in  every- 
body's  garden  in  October,  but  it  is  not  so  plentiful  in 
August.  It  requires  more  iutelligeat  culture  to  produce 
this  vegetable  in  August  than  early  in  October,  and,  there- 
fore, it  is  entitled  to  higher  recognition  when  shown  thus 
early.  Border  Carnations  would  be  included  witli 
perennials. 


FRUIT    GARDEN. 

Soil  for  Vine  boFdep  {A.  ;S.).— The 
only  fault  to  be  found  with  the  enclosed  speoimen 
of  soil  is  that  it  is  of  rather  a  light  nature  for  a 
Vine  border.  Suoh  being  the  case,  the  roots  are 
very  likely  to  extend  some  distance  and  probably 
make  their  way  into  an  unsuitable  subsoil,  which 
is  frequently  the  cause  of  Vines  shanking,  as 
yours  have  done.  Still,  Muscats  are  more  liable 
than  any  others  to  this  trouble,  as  it  may  be 
brought  about  by  the  berries  being  insufficiently 
fertilised,  by  fluctuations  of  temperature,  or  by 
the  soil  being  too  dry  or  too  wet.  If  caused  by 
the  roots  penetrating  into  an  unsuitable  subsoil 
(the  most  likely  reason),  your  better  plan  will  be 
to  remove  a  good  deal  of  che  old  soil  by  forking 


it  away  from  the  roots  into  a  trench  dug  (>  feet 
or  7  feet  from  the  stem.  Carefully  preserve  all 
the  fibrous  roots  you  come  across,  and  cut  back 
any  thick  gross  ones  that  may  have  gone  into  the 
subsoil.  Replace  the  old  soil  with  new,  and  lay 
the  roots  carefully  in  layers  near  the  surface. 
Make  the  soil  firm  as  the  work  proceeds.  The 
soil  should  consist  of  turfy  loam  co  which  some 
old  mortar  rubble  and  halt-inch  bones  are  mixed. 
It  may  be  necessary  to  put  fresh  drainage  in  the 
bottom  of  the  border,  as,  if  the  border  is  not 
efiectually  drained,  it  is  very  important  that  it 
be  so.  Autumn,  when  the  leaves  have  fallen,  is 
a  good  time  to  carry  out  this  work.  The  speci- 
mens sent  are:  1,  Ela;agnus  pungens  variegata ; 
2,  Acer  campestre  ;  3,  Pyrus  Aria. 

White  stuff  on  Apple  trees  {E.  C.).— Ves ;  it  is 
American  blight  with  wnich  your  trees  seem  so  badly 
infested.  The  best  way  to  eradicate  it  is  to  burn  all  the 
leaves  as  they  fall  and  then  to  wash  or  spray  the  trees 
with  caustic  alkali,  a  burning  wash  which  kills  all  insects 
it  comes  in  contact  with  and  cleanses  the  bark  of  the 
trees  of  all  lichen  or  other  growth,  but  does  not  harm 
them.  This  wash  may  be  obtained  trom  nurserynien  and 
seed  merchants  with  directions  how  to  use. 

StpawT^beppy  leaves  diseased  (W).  —  The 
Strawberry  leaves  sent  are  suffering  from  a  bad  attack 
of  the  Strawberry  fungus.  If  75  per  cent,  of  your 
plants  are  as  badly  affected  as  the  sample  sent,  we 
should  certainly  refuse  to  hold  them.  The  disease 
is  common  on  plants  growing  in  strong  lands,  and, 
although  it  seldom,  if  ever,  destroys  the  plants,  yet  by  its 
weakening  effects  on  the  growth  of  the  Strawberry  it 
undoubtedly  militates  against  its  successful  growth  and 
healthy  cropping  capacity.  Flowers  of  sulphur,  if  applied 
in  time,  will  arrest  its  growth,  but  nothing  can  bring  back 
to  good  health  plants  so  badly  affected  as  these  appear 
to  be. 

Stpaw^beppies  and  other  fruits  for  sandy 
soil  (S.  C.).— The  best  early  Strawberry  and  also  for  a 
general  crop  is  Royal  Sovereign,  a  standard  variety  of 
the  liighest  excellence.  As  a  later  variety  to  succeed  it,  the 
best  we  know  is  Laston's  Utility.  The  best  -  flavoured 
sorts  are  British  Queen  and  the  Countess,  and  for  pre- 
serving purposes  the  best  to  grow  is  Vicomtesse  Heri- 
cart  de  Thury.  It  is  a  rather  small  variety  ;  the  tiesh  is 
firm  and  remains  whole  when  preserved,  and  the  flavour 
is  spriglitly  and  not  too  tart.  Of  dessert  Gooseberries  the 
following  three  are  among  the  best :  Langley  Beauty 
(yellowj,  Forester  (deep  red),  and  Langley  Gage,  a  deli- 
ciously  flavoured  white  variety.  The  largest  E,ed  Currant 
IS  La  Versailiaise,  synonym  Fay's  Proliflc.  The  finest  of 
all  Raspberries  is  Superlative.  Any  nurseryman  adver- 
tising in  our  columns  will  supply  these. 

Young-  Peach  and  Nectapine  tpees  dpop- 
ping*  theip  fpult  {Alt  Old  Subscriber). — Your  descrip- 
tion of  tno  youug  Feach  and  Nectarine  fruits  shrivelling 
away  on  attaining  the  size  of  a  Cherry  undoubtedly  points 
to  the  fact  that  the  blossom  was  imperfectly  fertilised, 
and,  in  con3e<iueiice,  the  fruit  failed  to  set  properly ; 
heuce  its  withering  away.  Without  seeing  your  trees  or 
Imowing  more  about  them,  it  is  difficult  for  us  to  give  the 
reason  for  your  trees  falling  to  hold  and  mature  their 
crops.  There  are  many  contributory  causes  which  help  to 
bring  this  about ;  but  from  the  remark  you  make  that  your 
trees  do  not  produce  as  much  new  wood  as  you  would  like, 
we  are  inclined  to  come  to  the  conclusion  that  your  trees 
are  not  in  the  robust  state  of  health  they  should  be  in  for 
the  production  of  healthy  pollen-laden  flowers  and  good 
crops  of  fruit.  The  growth  trom  the  roots  (termed  sucker 
growth)  is  a  further  indication  that  the  free  flow  of  sap 
through  the  system  of  the  trees  is  in  some  way  inter- 
rupted ;  hence  the  activities  of  the  roots  flud  another 
outlet.  The  best  way  of  improving  the  health  of  your 
trees,  and  to  prevent  any  further  dropping  of  the  fruit, 
will  be  to  lift  Lhem  this  autumn  and  replant  in  soil  com- 
posed as  follows  :  To  every  barrow-load  of  turfy  loam  cut 
from  a  pasture  field  (and  put  together  in  a  heap  for  a 
couple  of  months  to  kill  the  grass)  add  a  peck  of  old 
mortar  or  plaster  rubble,  a  gallon  of  quicklime  and  a 
quarter  of  a  gallon  of  bone-dust.  Mix  well  together  and 
add  at  least  a  couple  of  barrow-loads  of  the  mixture  to 
each  tree,  placing  the  new  soil  carefully  round  the  roots 
as  replanting  takes  place  and  pressing  the  soil  firmly. 
The  work  should  be  carried  out  at  once.  Before  the 
trees  are  replanted  the  roots  must  be  overhauled, 
the  strong  ones  cut  back  by  one-third  their  length, 
and  the  growth  spoken  of  as  springing  from  the  roots 
must  be  cut  off  as  near  to  the  roots  as  possible  without 
injuring  them,  or  it  will  grow  again  as  bad  as  before. 
About  the  middle  of  April  each  tree,  as  far  as  its  roots 
extend,  should  have  a  layer  of  rotten  manure,  4  inches 
deep,  laid  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  as  a  mulch  and 
allowed  to  remain  on  during  the  summer.  This  not  only 
prevents  moisture  evaporating  from  the  soil,  but  it  also 
forms  an  excellent  medium  for  the  innumerable  sxu-face 
feeding  roots  which  are  formed  during  summer.  Of 
course,  plenty  of  water  must  be  given  in  dry  weather. 
We  have  never  known  this  treatment  to  fail  to  bring 
back  to  health  and  fruitfulness  Feaoh  and  Nectarine 
trees  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition.  In  dealing  with  old 
trees  the  treatment  would  be  slightly  different ;  but 
as  we  uuderstaud  your  trees  were  only  planted  last 
spring  twelve  months,  it  will  be  quite  safe  to  replant  them, 
and,  if  carefully  done,  no  loss  of  crop  next  year  should 
foUuw. 


622 


THE    GARDEN. 


pKCEMBER   18,  1909. 


Vapieties  of  Goosebepplos  and  Cuppants 

f^.i.).-  The  following  green  and  red  Gooseberries  are  exeel- 
lent  tor  dessert :  Green— Langley  Gage,  Koaebery,  British 
Queen,  Admiration,  Ocean  and  Greengage.  Ked— Lord 
Derby,  Dan's  Mistake,  Whinham's  Industry,  Bobby,  Red 
Champagne  and  Warrington.  Some  of  the  best-flavoured 
Gooseberries  are  among  the  yellow  and  white  varielies.  We 
note  a  few  of  these  :  Yellow-  Langley  Beauty,  Catherina, 
Gunner,  High  Sheriff,  Keepsake  and  Marizold.  White- 
Bright  Venus,  Cheshire  Lass,  Yellow  Ball,  Yellow  Sulphur 
and  Golden  Gem.  The  three  best  Black  Currants  are 
Carter's  Champion,  very  sweet;  Boskoop  Giant  and 
Black  Naples. 

Peaps,  Figs  and  Plum  gone  wrong 
(F.  P.  fl.).— Cracking  in  Pears  may  be  oue  to  more  than 
one  cause  ;  but  in  the  case  before  us  we  think  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  injury  has  been  caused  by  a  fungus  (Fusi- 
cladium  dentriticum).  This  attacks  the  young  twigs  in 
spring  and  the  flowers  when  open,  preventing  the  fruit 
from  setting  properly,  which  is,  in  consequence,  crippled 
and  injured  in  growth  and  rendered  useless  by  cracking, 
as  in  your  case.  The  best  way  to  prevent  its  attack  in 
future  is  to  burn  all  the  leaves  as  they  fall,  also  the 
prunings  after  the  trees  have  been  pruned,  and  then  spray 
the  trees  copiously  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  This  is  one 
of  the  best  fungicides  we  have,  and  may  be  obtained  from 
any  seed  merchant.  Spray  the  trees  again  before  they 
start  into  growth  in  spring.  Figs.— By  some  means  the 
sample  fruits  sent  have  failed  to  form  seeds  ;  consequently, 
they  have  also  failed  to  develop  growth  and  ripeu  in  the 
usual  way.  We  have  no  particulars  before  us  of  the 
condition  of  your  trees  or  of  the  treatment  given  them  ; 
therefore  we  can  only  surmise  what  the  cause  of  the 
failure  of  the  fruit  has  been.  It  may  be  brought  about  in 
various  ways,  but  the  chief  cause  of  failure  is  to  be  found 
in  the  overcrowded  condition  of  the  trees  by  allowing  too 
many  branches  and  too  much  foliage  to  grow,  often  com- 
pletely shutting  out  the  fruit  from  sunshine  and  making 
the  free  circulation  of  warm  air  among  the  branches  next 
to  impossible,  conditions  imperative  to  the  healthy 
growth  of  all  fruit.  If  this  is  so,  you  should  at  once 
have  all  the  weakest  branches  of  this  year's  growth  cut 
clean  out  at  their  base,  as  they  are  of  no  use  for  fruit- 
bearing,  and  only  help  to  spoil  the  branches  of  stronger 
growth  which,  if  better  exposed,  would  produce  good  crops 
of  healthy  fruit  the  following  year.  Dryness  of  the  roots 
is  sometimes  responsible  tor  such  a  failure.  Plum 
decayed.— The  cause  of  the  decay  in  this,  we  think,  is  due 
to  a  puncture  of  the  skin  of  the  fruit  by  some  Insect. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Peat-moss  ftpom  the  poad  (SiV/wa).— Whether 
this  is  harmful  or  not  will  depend  upon  the  amount  of 
soluble  matter  present.  It  would  be  best  to  allow  it  to 
remain  until  any  soluble  matter  had  been  washed  out  by 
rain. 

Leaves  fop  inspection  (Mrs.  E.  L.  E.).— Some  of 
the  enclosed  leaves  show  traces  of  having  been,  when  quite 
young,  attacked  by  the  Begonia  mite,  and  that  was  probably 
the  commencement  of  the  trouble.  The  plants  are 
evidently  kept  close  and  warm,  and  this  would  cause  the 
tissues  of  the  leaves  to  be  very  soft,  and  any  slight  injury 
prove  to  be  a  source  of  decay.  We  have  never  met  with 
plants  grown  under  hardier  conditions  attacked  in  this 
way ;  but  where  the  reverse  is  the  case,  the  decay  often 
gives  trouble. 

Lawn  wreeds  (Tainis).—\i  the  Daisy  patches  are 
numerous  and  large,  the  better  way  would  be  to  dig  them 
out  in  bulk,  and  either  lay  fresh  turf  at  once  or  sow  grass 
seeds.  As  you  desire  the  lawn  early,  the  former  would  be 
best,  as  it  is  now  late  for  sowing  grass  seeds.  You  could 
sow  again  in  March  or  April  in  showery  weather  if  this 
sowing  failed  to  give  good  results.  The  drawback  to  weed 
poison  is  that  it  does  not  affect  seeds  in  the  soil,  other- 
wise for  the  green  tuft  one  application  should  be  suflioient. 
The  cinders  would  be  of  no  service,  though  you  may  give 
a  top-dressing  of  loamy  soil  and  light  manure  in  Novem- 
ber and  break  it  down  by  sweeping  and  scattering.  You 
might  also,  in  the  same  month,  give  a  top-dressing  of  basic 
slag  at  the  rate  of  40%.  to  the  square  yard  and  bone-meal 
at  the  same  rate.  If  the  lawn  by  much  use  has  become 
hard  and  impervious,  prick  it  up  with  a  fork,  and  after- 
wards give  loamy  soil  and  decayed  manure,  finely  sifted, 
together  with  the  bone-meal  and  basic  slag,  as  a  top- 
dressing  to  the  whole.  In  spring  apply  nitrate  of  soda, 
finely  ground,  at  the  rate  of  loz.  per  sauare  yard.  This 
will  assist  a  quick  growth  generally.  For  your  clay  soil 
the  basic  slag  would  be  best  in  conjunction  with  loam  and 
manure. 

Cpeepep  fop  house  wall  (P.  P.  H.).— We  think 
that,  in  the  circumstances,  you  had  better  confine  your- 
self to  plants  that  are  not  true  creepers  or  climbers,  as 
these  terms  are  usually  understood,  but  which  are  capable 
of  covering  much  wall  space  in  course  of  time  and,  while 
not  subject  to  the  breakases  to  which  you  refer, 
give  a  good  account  of  themselves  generally.  The 
kinds  of  plants  we  have  in  mind  would  include  Esjal- 
lonia  macrantlia,  Ceanothus  dentatus,  C.  azureus  grandi- 
florus,  C.  veitchianus,  C.  Gloire  de  Versailles  and  others. 
Of  much  value,  too,  would  be  the  berry-bearing  Crataegus 
Pyracantha  and  C.  Lelandii.  The  majority  of  these, 
while  possessing  no  suspicion  of  feelers  or  tendrils 
such  as  the  Ivy  or  other  true  climbiog  plants,  are 
suited  for  positions  such  as  that  indicated,  because 
they  press  very  closely  to  the  wall  and,  being  of  a  sturdy 
woody  habit  of  growth,  would  not  easily  break.  By  first 
nailing  tliem  to  the  wall  they  would  take  care  of  them 
selves  after  a  time  and  give  little  or  no  trouble.    '►  ••"-■■i'' 


Itshould 


be  stated  clearly  that  those  named  are  of  slower  growth 
than  t-ue  climbers,  but  the  attention  they  require  is 
practic  illy  nil. 

Rose  diseased  (Ro(;rn)-— The  Rose  is  attacked  by 
the  disease  known  as  parasitic  Rose  canker,  caused  by 
a  fungus.  Cut  out  and  burn  all  infested  shoots  and 
paint  overthe  wounds  with  tar  or  creosote.  .Search  should 
be  made  on  young  shoots  for  the  beginning  of  the  trouble. 
French  system  of  gardening  in  England 
and  Scotland  (T.  C.  D.).— There  are  many  in  England 
who  have  embarked  on  this  old  system  of  culture  :  but  we 
have  not  heard  of  it  being  taken  up  seriously  in  Scotland. 
The  climate  would  probably  be  against  it  in  the  latter 
country.  Where  the  conditions  are  favourable,  we  see  no 
reason  why  the  system  should  not  be  as  great  a  success  in 
the  South  of  England  as  it  is  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Paiii.  Everything  depends  on  capable  and  intelligent 
management. 

Potatoes  diseased  (M  F/riJ)— The  Potatoes  are 
affected  with  one  of  the  several  kinds  of  scab,  in  this  case 
due  to  the  fungus  Rhizoctonia,  or  copper  web.  The  fungus 
is  almost  all  gone  now  and  is  superficial.  It  must  have 
attacked  the  plants  early  in  their  growth  and  was 
probably  present  in  the  soil,  since  it  is  known  to  grow  on 
one  or  two  plants  likely  to  have  been  present  in  pasture 
land.  It  would  be  well  not  to  grow  Potatoes  in  the  soil 
for  a  year  or  two.  Cabbages  and  probably  Beans,  Peas 
and  Turnips  would  not  be  likely  to  be  affected. 

Covepingfop  staging  (.Si-mfcria".?). -We  do  not 
think  that  Cocoanut  refuse  would  give  satisfaction  if 
used  for  the  purpose  named.  Derbyshire  spar,  broken 
finely,  is  remarkably  neat  and  clean,  and  is  used  in  many 
gardens.  We  also  like  the  appearance  of  fine  gravel  from 
Ibout  the  size  of  a  Pea  to  a  Horse  Bean  By  employing 
sieves  of  different  sizes  this  can  be  readily  done  After 
being  sifted,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  wash  the  gravel  before 
putting  it  on  the  stage.  In  order  to  wash  it  thoroughly 
a  tub  of  water  and  a  fine  sieve  are  necessary.  A  shovelful 
of  gravel  should  then  be  put  in  the  sieve,  which  must  be 
partially  immersed  in  the  water  and  given  a  twist  round, 
when  all  impurities  will  be  removed,  pass  through  the 
sieve  and  fall  to  the  bottom  of  the  tub  of  water. 

Begonia  Qioipe  de  Loppaine  (.A.  A.  T.).— It 
your  plants  of  Beaonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine  are  in  a  genial 
temperature  of  66^  to  65°,  they  ought  not  yet  to  have 
finished  liowering.  An  occasional  stimulant  should  aid 
in  the  production  of  more  flowers.  When  the  plants  have 
done  blooming,  say,  about  the  end  of  January  they  should 
be  kept  somewhat  cooler  and  drier  for  about  six  weeks 
Then,  if  cut  down  to  within  6  inches  or  so  of  the  pot  and 
placed  in  a  warmer  structure,  young  shoots  will  be 
pushed  out  freely.  When  these  are  about  2  inches  long 
they  make  the  best  of  cuttings.  These  should  be  dibbled 
singly  into  small  pots  of  light  sandy  soil  and  placed  in  a 
close'  propagating  case  in  the  stove,  where  they  will  soon 
root.  Directly  this  happens  they  must  have  more  air 
allowed  them,  and  then  be  grown  on  in  an  intermediate 
temperature. 

Infopmatlon  about  ladybipds(4.  H.  King).- 
It  would  be  very  interesting  to  obtain  confirmation  of 
your  observations  regarding  the  ladybirds.  One  would 
think  they  were  in  the  position  described  for  shelter  or 
after  small  insects.  The  flies  were  undoubtedly  feeding  in 
a  hole  made  by  some  bird  or  biting  Insect.  The  yellow 
cocoons  are  those  of  a  small  fly  which  lays  its  eggs  m  the 
body  of  the  white  butterfly  caterpiUar.  The  eggs  hatch 
there  and  the  larva  feed  in  the  caterpillar  without  killing 
it  until  the  time  comes  for  the  latter  to  pupate.  They 
then  emerge,  killing  the  caterpillar  as  they  do  so,  turn 
into  chrysalides  inside  the  little  cocoons,  and  hibernate  m 
this  condition,  hatching  out  about  the  time  the  cabbage 
butterfly  caterpillars  appear  in  the  early  summer.  They 
form  the  best  natural  check  to  the  ravages  of  the  cabbage 
white  butterfly  in  this  country. 

Stapting  a  Violet  fapm  (Jf.  C.).-The  chief 
thing  is  a  warm  and  sheltered  position  in  which  winter 
frosts  are  not  felt.  Good  sandy  loam  is  desirable,  likewise 
a  spot  where  Violets  have  not  been  long  grown.  Unless 
the  small  farm  was  situated  in  a  favoured  part,  such, 
indeed  as  may  be  found  near  Southampton,  Bourne 
mouth  or  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Bristol  Channel, 
in  some  parts  of  SratU  Wales  or  in  Ireland,  frames  with 
lights  would  become  a  sort  of  necessity;  indeed,  frames 
would  be  most  helpful  in  any  case  for  giving  assistance  to 
early  crops  and  thereby  prolonging  the  season.  "Sweet 
Vloieti  and  Pansies,"  by  E.  T.  Cook  (Newnes,  Limited), 
might  prove  of  service  to  you  so  far  as  the  cultural  side 
of  the  question  is  concerned.  The  price  is  33.  6a.,  or 
33  lOJ  free  by  post,  the  latter  for  cloth  covers.  Notes  on 
the  cultivation  of  the  Violet  have  frequently  appeared  in 
The  Garden. 

Gardening  education  (B.  (,>.)— May  we,  without 
seeming  to  be  too  b.ild,  suggest  that  in  seeking  to  educate 
yourself  more  fully  in  gardening,  you  also  seek  to  greatly 
improve  your  handwriting;  your  spelling  is  correct,  but 
writing  indifferent.  You  may  wish  to  go  in  for  an  exami- 
nation. If  that  is  so,  it  would  help  you  if  you  joinedac'ass 
conducted  by  a  goo  1  practical  gardener,  who  also  under- 
stands something  of  horticultural  science  ;  but  we  realise 
that  in  your  northern  and  somewhat  remote  position  it 
may  be  difllcult  for  you  to  becoras  a  member  of  any  class. 
If  you  have  to  work  up  from  books,  read  this  paper  care- 
fully and  study  it  each  week  ;  also  devote  yourself  to 
mastering  one  branch  of  gardening  flrst,  such  as  vegetable 
culture  dealing  with  the  soil,  deep  working  of  it,  manur- 
ing, cropping,  best  varieties  to  grow,  general  culture,  and 
all  similar  information.  A  year  will  not  be  too  much  to 
devote  to  that.  Then  go  on  with  fruit  culture,  under 
glass  and  outdoors ;  then  flowers,  trees  and  shrubs,  lawns, 
and  so  on.    All  this  means  hard  work  and  close  stu  ly  ;  but 


if  you  make  good  use  of  books  and  read  them  carefully, 
you  will  find  all  the  time  you  are  engaged  in  a  garden  that 
the  theoretical  knowledge  gained  from  books  will  both 
help  and  interest  you  in  your  garden  work  greatly.  But 
you  must  not  begin  with  books  that  are  expensive  or  too 
advanced.  You  will  find  much  that  is  helpful  in  "  Prac- 
tical School  Gardening,"  price  23.,  obtainable  from  H. 
Frowde,  University  Press,  Amen  Corner,  London,  E.C. ; 
also  "Gardening  Made  Easy,"  price  Is.  6d.,  from  the 
office  of  this  paper.  A  good  beginning  for  vegetables  is 
"  Vegetable  Culture,"  price  Is.,  obtainable  from  Macmillan 
and  Co.,  London.  Any  bookseller  should  get  you  these  for 
the  prices  stated.  A  very  useful  book  on  fruit-growing  is 
that  entitled  "Profitable  Fruit-growing"  (a  gold  medal 
essay),  price,  by  post.  Is.  2^d.,  which  may  be  had  of  the 
Publisher,  41,  Wellington  Street.  Strand,  London.  A  good 
book  on  soil  is  Mr.  A.  D.  Hall's  "  The  Soil,"  price  3s.  lOd.  by 
post,  wliich  may  be  had  from  the  same  place  as  the  last- 
named  book. 


SOCIETIES. 


EAST  OF  FIFE  CHRYSANTHEMUM  .SOCIETY. 
The  annual  show  of  this  society  was  opened  in  the  Town 
Hall,  Leven,  on  November  -20,  by  Major  Shepherd.  There 
was  a  reduction  in  the  number  of  entries,  but  the  exhibits 
did  not  show  any  diminution  in  their  quality,  and  were 
generally  considered  fully  equal  to  those  of  former  years. 
Specially  fine  were  the  blooms  and  the  fruit.  Among  the 
leading  winners  with  cut  blooms  were  Mr.  D.  M. 
Pryde,  jun..  Buckhaven ;  Mr.  .T.  Farmer,  Methil ;  Mr.  D. 
M'Donald.LinwoodHall;  Mr.  W.  Young,  Falkland  Palace; 
and  Mr.  A.  Robb,  Dysart  House.  In  pot  plants,  Mr. 
Pryde,  Mr.  P.  Readdie  and  Mr.  R.  Ballantyne,  Leven  ;  Mr. 
D.  M'Donald,  Mr.  Kinnear,  and  Mr.  W.  Short,  Lahill, 
were  prominent.  Mr.  A.  Robb,  Mr.  J.  Maule,  Balcaskie  ; 
Mr.  D.  M'Donald,  Mr.  W.  Short,  Mr.  Cummings  and  Mr. 
.T.  Paton  led  in  fruits  ;  and  in  the  vegetables  the  chief 
winners  were  Mr.  M.  Campbell,  Mr.  Hampton,  Mr.  T. 
Deas  and  Mr.  Kinnear.  The  cup  for  eighteen  Chrysan- 
themum blooms  offered  by  Mr.  G.  Donaldson  was  won,  for 
the  second  time,  by  Mr.  D.  M.  Pryde,  jun. 


DUNDEE  CHRYSANTHEMUM  SOCIETY. 
The  annual  show  of  the  Liundee  Chrysanthemum  Society 
was  opened  in  the  Kinnaird  Hall,  Dundee,  on  November  26 
and  continued  the  following  day.  The  show,  which  was 
opened  by  Colonel  Douglas  Dick  of  Pitkerro,  was  well 
attended  at  the  opening  ceremony,  but  the  drawings  for 
the  flrst  day  were  comparatively  small.  This  was  not  due 
to  any  want  of  attraction  in  the  show  itself,  as  it  was  one 
of  a  high  degree  of  excellence,  many  of  the  blooms  being 
of  exceptional  quality,  while  the  plants  and  vegetables 
well  maintained  the  great  reputation  of  the  district  as  one 
in  which  horticulture  is  on  a  high  standard. 

In  the  class  for  the  Corporation  Challenge  Vase,  (or 
twelve  vases,  Japanese,  in  twelve  varieties,  the  competition 
brought  out  a  good  contest  between  such  redoubtable 
growers  as  Mr.  D.  Nicoll,  Rossie,  and  Mr.  J.  Beisant,' 
Castle  Huntly.  The  former  won  with  a  display  of  excep- 
tional beauty,  his  Mme.  Radaelli  and  J.  H.  Silsbury  being 
very  fine  indeed.  Mr.  Beisant  was  second  and  Mr.  J.  Rae, 
Ethie  Castle,  Aberdeen,  third.  For  eight  vases  Mr.  Nicoll 
led  again,  Mr.  A.  Duncan,  Carbet  Castle,  being  second  and 
Mr.  Beisant  third.  For  six  vases  Mr.  W.  Dickson, 
Adderley,  led,  and  for  four  Mr.  J.  A.  Sword  was  flrst.  Mr. 
W.  Dickson  was  first  for  four  vases  of  incurved  Japanese  and 
also  f»r  two  vases  of  six  blooms.  Mr.  Duncan  was  flrst  for 
the  cup  for  three  vases  of  Chrysanthemum  blooms, 
distinct.  Mr.  J.  Beats  was  first  for  three  vases  of  singles, 
dress  sprays  and  button-hole  bouquets,  and  for  a  shower 
hand  bouquet  of  Chrysanthemums,  Mr.  G.  Scott  leading 
for  vase  and  also  for  basket  of  blooms  arranged  (or  effect. 
Mr.  J.  S.  .Summers  led  (or  Chrysanthemums,  incurved,  in 
vase  for  effect. 

In  the  plant  classes,  Mr.  G.  Scott,  Seathwood,  was  flrst 
(or  twelve  plants  of  Chrysanthemums,  Mr.  J.  Beats  coming 
in  second.  Mr.  Beats  was  flrst  (or  six  plants,  and  also  for 
winter-fiowering  Begonias  and  Primula  sinensis.  Mr. 
Scott  led  for  six  pots  of  Chrysanthemums. 

The  classes  (or  amateurs  brought  a  good  competition, 
and  a  creditable  display  was  the  result.  For  the  Watson 
Challenge  Cup,  for  four  vases,  Japanese,  Mr.  J.  Denholm, 
Blackness  Road,  Dundee,  led,  Mr.  J.  Clark  coming  second. 
Mr.  Denholm  led  also  in  the  class  for  three  vases  of  Japanese, 
and  Mr.  Clark  won  the  silver  medal  for  two  vases  in  not 
less  than  three  varieties.  The  gold  medal  (or  a  vase  of 
Chrysanthemum  blooms,  arranged  for  effect,  went  to 
Sergeant- Major  Curtis,  Lochee.  Mr.  Clark  was  also  the 
leading  amateur  winner  with  plants. 

The  vegetable  classes  were  for  amateurs,  and  in  that  (or 
a  collection  Mr.  J.  Hepburn,  West  Huntingtower,  was 
flrst. 

The  nurserymen's  exhibits  were  o(  good  quality,  although 
not  very  numerous  ;  but  space  does  not  admit  o(  details  o( 
these. 


BANBURY  AND  DISTRICT  GARDBNBES' 
ASSOCIATION. 
This  association  held  its  (ourth  fortnightly  meeting  on  the 
3rd  inst.  The  Mayor  presided.  Mr.  Chidlow,  head- 
gardener  to  Mrs.  Morrel,  Headington  Hill,  Ox(ord.  gave 
a  very  interesting  paper  on  the  culture  o(  winter-flower 
ing  plants,  at  the  conclusion  o(  which  a  lengthy  discussion 
took  place,  questions  being  answered  in  a  very  able 
manner  by  Mr.  Chidlow.  The  meeting  terminated  with 
the  usual  votes  o(  thanks  to  the  lecturer  and  chairman, 


Decembei;  18,  1909.] 


THE    GAKDEN. 


623 


UOYAL  HOItTICULT0EAL  SOCIETY. 
AT  the  fortnightly  meeting  held  at  Vincent  Square  on  the 
7th  Inst,  there  was  a  moderately  good  display  of  flowers 
aud  vegetables  considering  the  season,  Carnations  and 
winter-flowering  Begonias  being  the  principal  flowers. 
The  splendid  exhibit  of  Braasicas  staged  by  Messrs. 
Sutton  and  Sons,  and  referred  to  below,  was  of  more  than 
usual  interest,  and  most  welcome  on  account  of  its  educa- 
tional value. 

Orchid  Committee. 
Present :  Mr.  J.  Guraey  Fowler  (chairman),  Messrs. 
James  O'Brien,  Walter  Cobb,  H.  Little,  W.  Boxall,  R. 
Thwaites,  F,  J.  Hanbury,  Stuart  H.  Low,  J.  Forster  Acock, 
A.  N.  A.  McBean,  C.  fl.  Curtis,  J.  Charles  worth,  J.  Cypher, 
Arthur  Dye,  W.  H.  Hatcher,  H-  G.  Alexander,  H.  A.  Tracey, 
H.  Ballantine,  Gurney  Wilson,  J.  Wilson  Potter,  W. 
Boltou  and  de  B.  Crawshay. 

Messrs.  Charles  worth  and  Co.,  Hay  ward's  Heath,  put  up 
a  fine  bank  of  splendidly  flowered  plants,  these  comprising 
many  beautiful  Calanthes,  Lselio-Cattleyas,  Cypripediums 
and  a  few  Odontogloaaums.  Lselio-Cattleya  Cappei,  L.-C. 
Sunray,  L.-C.  Lydia,  Cattleya  Octave  Doin,  Calanthe 
Veitchii  alba,  C.  William  Murray,  C.  albo-aurea,  a 
beautiful  variety  of  Odontoglossum  ardentlsaimum  and 
a  splendid  form  of  0.  crispum  were  a  few  among  many 
that  called  for  special  mention.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

From  H.  S.  Goodson,  Esq.,  Fairlawn,  Putney,  S.W, 
(gardener,  Mr.  G.  E.  Day),  came  a  splendid  lot  of  well- 
grown  Cypripediums,  all  being  well  flowered  and  in  perfect 
health.  Such  as  C.  insigne  Sanderae,  C.  trlumphans  Jules 
Hye  variety  and  several  varieties  of  C.  leeanum  were  par- 
ticularly good.  In  addition,  we  noticed  a  fine  plant  of 
Odontoglossum  harryo-crispum,  the  whole  making  a  most 
interesting  display.    Silver  Fiora  medal. 

Messrs.  Mansell  and  Hatcher,  Limited,  Rawdon,  York- 
shire, put  up  a  small  group  of  the  better-class  Cypri- 
pediums, these  being  well  grown  and  carrying  particularly 
flue  flowers.  C.  arthurianum  pulchellum,  C.  gigas 
auperbum,  C.  Memnon,  C.  triumphana  Jules  Hye  variety, 
C.  Niobe  and  C.  La  France  were  a  few  of  more  than  ordi- 
nary merit.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  J.  Cypher  and  Sons  of  Cheltenham  also  had  a 
splendid  little  exhibit  of  Cypripediums,  the  flowers  of 
which  were  particularly  large  and  bright.  C.  insigne  Ethel 
Cypher,  C.  i.  King  Edward  VIL,  C.  leeanum  Cypher's 
variety,  C.  Miss  Louise  Fowler,  C.  Mme.  Jules  Hye  and  C. 
aureum  virginalia  were  some  that  called  for  special 
mention.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.Sander and  Sons,  St.  Albans, exhibited  adelightful 
group  of  mixed  plants  of  high  quality,  among  which  we 
noticed  excellent  examples  of  Lselio-Cattleya  Decia, 
Cypripedium  insigne  Eclipse,  C.  cloiaonianum,  C.  Empress 
Alexandra,  C.  Euryadea  albanense,  Eria  barbata  and 
Odontoglossum  amablle,  the  whole  being  in  the  best 
possible  condition.    Silver  Flora  medal. 

Mr.  E.  V.  Low,  Hay  ward's  Heath,  exhibited  a  smatT  group 
of  excellent  plants,  composed  chiefly  of  splendidly  grown 
Cypripediums,  these  being  very  free-dowered.  C.  ViUe  de 
Paris,  C.  Mme.  Jules  Hye,  C.  Olivia,  C,  charlesianum,  C. 
Thalia  giganteum  and  C.  Tityus  were  of  more  than  usual 
merit. 

Fruit  anb  Vegbtablk  C«mmittee. 
Present :  Mr.  W.  Pouparc  (chairman),  Messrs.  W.  Bates, 
A.  Dean,  H.  Parr,  J.  Vert,  fl.  Markham,  A.  R.  Allan,  G. 
Hobday,  J.  Davis,  P.  W.  Tuckett,  J.  Jaquea,  G.  Reynolds, 
Charles  Foster,  G.  Wythes,  Owen  Thomas  and  Edwin 
Beckett. 

Messrs.  Sutton  and  Sons,  Reading,  ati^ed  a  wonderful 
collection  of  members  of  the  Cabbage  family,  this  occupy- 
ing nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  hall  and  comprising  no 
Itss  than  fifty  distinct  forms  of  Brassica,  tweuty-flve  of 
these  being  varieties  of  Kale.  In  the  centre  of  the  exhibit 
Eome  plants  of  the  wild  Cabbage,  from  which  all  our 
garden  greens  have  been  derived,  were  shown,  thus  render- 
ing the  exhibit  one  of  educational  value  as  well  as  being 
exceedingly  interesting.  The  value  of  the  Kales  for  winter 
use  is  now  beingmore  fully  recognised ;  hence  Messrs.  Sutton 
were  quite  right  in  making  a  feature  of  these,  the  many 
distinct  forms  being  unknown  to  many.  Suttou's  Autumn 
Protecting  Broccoli  was  shown  in  splendid  condition, 
these  being  cut  from  the  open  field  after  the  severe 
weather  which  has  been  experienced.  Savoys,  Brussels 
Sprouts  and  Cabbages  of  various  sorts  were  also  iu  splendid 
form.  A  hearting  form  of  the  Portugal  Cabbage  (Couve 
Tronchuda),  a  Brussels  Sprout  stem  with  a  Savoy  head 
and  buttons,  and  a  similar  stem  with  a  Cabbage  head, 
were  three  interesting  novelties  in  thia  unique  group. 
Silver-gilt  Knightian  medal. 

The  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs,  Aldenham  House,  Elstree 
(gardener,  Mr.  E.  Beckett),  staged  a  very  attractive  group 
of  Kales,  these  being  arranged  in  large  pyramids  of 
various  colours.  The  freshness  and  general  excellence  of 
these  were  freely  commented  upon,  and  Mr.  Beckett 
deserves  every  praise  for  staging  such  a  splendid  lot. 
Silver  Knightian  medal. 

Messrs.  B.  shearn  and  Co.,  Tottenham  Court  Road  and 
Store  Street,  London,  staged  a  very  fine  collection  of  Nuts, 
these  including  many  not  often  seen  offered  for  sale. 
Cashew  kernels.  Pine  kernels.  Butter  Nuts,  Lychees, 
Walnut  kernels,  Peccan  Nuts,  Brazil  Nuts  in  pods,  Jordan 
Almonds,  Pistachio  Nuts  and  Cocoanuts  in  pods,  and  Dites 
stoned  and  stuffed  with  Nuts  were  a  few  of  the  more 
unusual  features  of  this  interesting  group.  Silver 
Knightian  medal. 

In  the  competitive  classes  for  vegetables  competition 
generally  was  not  very  keen.  For  two  red  varietiea  of 
Celery,  the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs,  Aldenham  Houae,  Elstree 
(gardener,  Mr.  E.  Beckett),  was  the  only  exhibitor,  staging 
excellent  examoles  of  Sutton's  Superb  Pink  and  Standard 
Bearer,  for   which   he   secured   first   prize.     The   same 


exhibitor  was  first  for  two  white  varieties,  these  being 
Sutton's  Solid  White  and  Giant  White. 

For  three  dishes  of  Beet,  distinct,  there  were  two  entries, 
the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs  being  first  with  splendid  examples 
of  Cheltenham  Green  Top,  Sutton's  Black  and  Delicacy,  i 
Countess  Cowper,  Panshanger,  Hertford  (gardener,  Mr.  i 
R.  Staward),  was  a  good  second,  the  varieties  shown  here 
being  Sutton's  Crimson,  Blood  Red  and  Satisfaction.  For 
three  dishes  of  Carrots,  distinct,  the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs 
was  the  only  exhibitor  and  secured  first  prize  with 
beautiful  specimens. 

For  two  varieties  of  Brussels  Sprouts,  three  stems  of 
each,  there  were  three  entries,  first  prize  going  to  E.  J. 
Preston,  Esq.,  Kelsey  Park,  Beckenham,  Kent  (gardener, 
Mr.  M.  Webster),  for  splendid  specimens  of  Dwarf  Green 
and  Perfection ;  the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs  was  a  good  second. 
For  two  dishes  of  Brussels  Sprouts,  distinct,  picked, 
there  were  two  entries,  the  Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs  being 
placed  first  and  E.  J.  Preston,  Esq.,  second. 

For  two  varieties  of  Endive,  three  plants  of  each,  the 
Hon.  Vicary  Gibbs  was  the  only  exhioitor,  winning  first 
prize  with  Sutton's  Improved  Round-leaved  Batavian  aud 
Exquisite  Curled.  The  same  exhibitor  was  first  for  three 
varieties  of  Savoys,  two  of  each,  second  honoura  falling 
to  Counteas  Cowper  (gardener,  Mr.  R.  Staward),  both 
exhibitors  showing  excellent  produce. 
Floral  Committee. 
Present :  Mr.  H.  B.  May  (chairman),  M*,jsrs.  R.  C.  Not- 
cutt,  W.  J.  Bean,  G.  Reuthe,  J.  Douglas,  J.  T.  Bennett- 
Poe,  A.  Kingamill,  James  Hudson,  William  Howe,  J. 
Jennings,  Charles  E.  Shea,  W.  Bain,  H.  J.  Jones,  Charles 
Dixon,  Charles  E.  Pearson,  E  T.  Cook,  W.  P.  Thomaon, 
E.  H  Jenkins,  G.  Paul,  R.  Hooper  Pearson,  W.  Cuth- 
b?rtson  and  the  Hon.  J.  R.  C.  Boscawen. 

Messrs.  James  Veitch  and  Sons,  Limited,  Chelsea,  again 
brought  a  rich  and  varied  display  of  the  winter-flowering 
Begonias  to  demonstrate  the  profuse  flowering  and  beauty 
of  these  plants,  some  of  which  have  now  been  in  flower  for 
at  least  three  months.  This  long-continued  flowering  Is, 
indeed,  apart  from  the  floral  display  these  plants  create, 
one  of  the  chief  attributes  of  the  group,  whose  value 
at  this  season  of  the  year  it  is  not  possible  to  over-estimite. 
We  noticed  nothing  new  among  the  varieties  shown,  but 
may  mention  such  as  Winter  Cheer,  Julius  (semi-double 
and  of  Oleander  pink  shade),  Mrs.  Heal  (carmine),  Ensign 
(semi-double,  rose,  a  valuable  and  showy  variety),  Mrs. 
Bedford  (pink-flowered,  of  the  Lorraine  type,  a  lovely  plant 
for  freedom  of  flowering  and  good  colour),  and  Elatior 
(rose  scarlet)  as  among  the  best  of  those  displayed  on  the 
present  occasion.  A  few  single  and  double  flowered 
Chrysanthemums  were  also  shown  by  Messrs.  Veitch, 
these  including  Golden  Age,  Moneymaker  (white)  and 
Mrs.  W.  Buckingham  (single,  pink),  the  last-named  a  very 
pleasing  aud  well-formed  flower.  Plants  of  the  ever- 
welcome  and  fragrant- flowered  Luculia  gratissima  were 
also  displayed,  which  is  among  the  most  valuable  of 
winter-floweriog  plants.    Silver-gilt  Banksian  medal. 

The  Misses  Hopkins,  Shepperton-on-Thames,  brought  a 
pretty  display  of  hardy  plants,  which  included  Polyan- 
thus, single  and  double  Primroses,  a  pan  of  Iris  Hlatrio, 
and  a  nice  variety  of  Saxifrages  of  several  sections. 

Mr.  F.  W.  E.  Williams,  Bromyard,  brought  several  vases 
of  single-flowered  Chrysanthemums,  some  of  which  were 
showy  and  good.  The  varietiea,  however,  were  uunam  1, 
and  we  are  precluded  from  a  detailed  reference  in  con- 
sequence. 

Mr.  W.  H.  Page,  Hampton,  had  a  very  handsome 
exhibit  arranged  at  the  western  end  of  the  hall,  which 
comprised  Lilies  and  Carnations.  The  former  were 
of  the  red  and  white  flowered  forms  of  L.  speciosum  and 
L.  longiflorum,  and  were  arranged  in  imposing  masses  in 
Bamboo  vases  and  stands.  Delightfully  fresh-looking  and 
in  the  highest  excellence,  these  things  naturally  attracted 
a  good  deal  of  attention.  The  Carnations,  too,  were  in 
every  way  admirable,  and  included  May  Day,  Winsor, 
Beacon,  White  Perfection,  Enchantress,  Mrs.  T.  W.  Law- 
aon,  Governor  Rooaevelt  and  others.  These  were  all 
arranged  in  handsome  vases  and  made  a  fine  display. 
Silver-gilt  Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  J.  Peed  and  Sons,  West  Norwood,  S.E,,  brought 
a  large  variety  of  succulent  and  alpine  plants,  the  latter 
mostly  arranged  in  pans.  Berried  shrubs  in  variety  were 
also  freely  displayed. 

Messrs.  H.  Cannell  and  Sons,  Swanley,  brought  a  really 
sumptuous  display  of  the  Zonal  Pelargonium,  arranging 
them  in  handsome  bunches  and  in  many  diverse  shades  of 
colour,  Barbara  Hope,  salmon  ;  New  York,  scarlet,  white 
eye  ;  Jupiter,  scarlet ;  Paria,  piak  and  white  ;  Clevedon, 
scarlet;  Vesta,  light  scarlet;  Berlin,  crimson  scarlet; 
and  Campania,  salmon,  being  among  the  best.  Messrs. 
Cannell  also  had  in  variety  single-flowered  Chrysanthe- 
mums, of  which  Cannell's  White,  Cannell's  Crimson  aud 
Mrs.  Charles  Willis,  carmine,  were  the  best.  Silver 
Banksian  medal. 

Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and  Co.,  Enfield,  brought  a  very  large 
display  of  Carnations,  arranging  the  flowers  in  an  artistic 
manner  in  the  centre  of  the  hall.  The  varieties  were  very 
numerous,  and  apart  from  the  leading  kinds  of  commerce, 
the  firm  brought  quite  a  large  number  of  seedlings.  Messrs. 
Low  also  exhibited  finely  grown  Poinsettiaa,  Cyclamen  and 
other  plants.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  L.  R.  Russell,  Richmond,  had  an  admirable  group  of 
evergreen  and  variegated  plants.  Ivies  and  Aucubas  con- 
stituting important  features.  Of  the  former  there  were 
many  admirably  grown  examples  of  Hedera  dentata 
variegata,  without  doubt  the  finest  of  all  the  silver  forms. 
Apart  from  ita  good  and  pronounced  colour,  its  vigour  and 
free  growth  and  brigbtening  effect  at  this  season  of  the 
year  render  it  a  most  valuable  addition  to  its  class. 

Mr.  Frank  Brazier,  Caterham,  had  a  capital  group  of 
single  and  double  flowered  Chrysanthemums,  in  which  was 
included  a  large  number  of  exhioiiioa  blooms. 


Mr.  H.  J.  Jones,  Lewisham,  had  a  vase  of  splendid 
blooms  of  the  single  Chrysanthemum  Kathleen  May,  a 
brilliant  velvety  crimson  with  clear  golden  centre  ;  a 
lovely  thing  for  any  purpose.    (See  "  New  Plants.") 

The  Rev.  H.  BucKstone,  Etwall,  Derby,  received  a  silver 
Flora  medal  for  a  superbly  grown  lot  of  red  and  white 
Cyclamen,  the  plants  for  so  early  a  date  being  splendidly 
iu  flower.  Mr.  Buckstone  has  upon  more  than  one  former 
occasion  displayed  his  skill  in  this  direction,  but  we  think 
the  above  group  surpasses  all  his  previous  efforts.  Silver 
Flora  medal. 

Some  very  fine  examples  of  the  Persian  Cyclamen  came 
from  Mr.  W.  Astor,  Taplow,  near  Maidenhead,  the  plants 
being  well  grown  and  fiowered.    Silver  Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  H.  Burnett,  Guernsey,  brought  many  fine  vases  of 
Carnations,  staging  them  with  his  usual  good  taste  and 
judgment.    Silver-gilt  Banksian  medal. 

Mr.  E.  H.  Brown,  Roehampton,  received  a  silver  Flora 
medal  for  a  capital  table  of  Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  the 
plants  being  mostly  of  specimen  size  and  interspersed  with 
Palms  and  other  useful  things. 

Messrs.  W.  Wells  and  Co.,  Limited,  Merstham,  filled  a 
table  with  Chrysanthemums  in  variety,  single,  decorative 
and  exhibition  sorts  being  well  displayed.  A  few  promi- 
nent sorts  seen  to  be  in  excellent  condition  were  H.  F. 
Felton,  rich  golden  yellow ;  Souvenir  de  Scalardis,  yellow ; 
Hetty  Wells,  bronze;  Miss  Muriel  Smith,  salmon  and 
terra-Gotta ;  Mrs.  W,  Buckingham,  pink,  single ;  and 
Captain  Julyam,  pleasing  soft  yellow.      •^ 

Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  and  Sons,  Highgate,  N.,  brought 
a  re  illy  superb  lot  of  Carnations,  arranging  the  flowers 
with  skill  and  taste  near  the  entrance.  Some  of  the  more 
noticeable  sorts  were  Rose  Dor6,  May  Day,  piuk  ; 
Countess  of  Onslow,  new,  heliotrope  shade ;  Rosioe,  Mar- 
mion,  and  the  new  royal  purple  variety  named  Lady 
Norah  Brassey.  Messrs.  Cutbush  were  also  responsible 
for  a  very  fine  group  of  berried  and  other  shrubs, 
which  included  scarlet  and  yellow  berried  Hollies, 
the  Sea  Buckthorn  (Hippophae  rhamnoides)  and  othera. 
Silver  Flora  medal.  

PERPETUAL  FLOWERING  CARNATION 
SOCIETY'S  EXHIBITION. 
The  aeveuth  exhibition  arranged  by  the  above  aociety  waa 
held  in  the  Horticultural  Hall,  Vincent  Square,  West- 
minster, on  the  Sth  inst.,  and  proved  a  great  advance 
in  many  respects  on  those  held  previously.  We  were 
pleased  to  note  that  the  amateurs'  classes  were  better 
contested,  but  there  is  stitl  room  for  improvement  in  this 
direction.  The  quality  of  the  flowers,  taken  as  a  whole, 
was  very  good  and  the  arrangements  excellent. 

For  the  best  group  of  cut  Carnations,  not  fewer  than 
twelve  varieties,  arranged  on  a  table  of  stated  size,  there 
were  two  entries,  first  prize  being  won  by  Mr.  C.  F.  Waters, 
Bilcombe,  Sussex,  with  a  very  beautiful  lot  of  blooms, 
which  were  well  arranged.  Afterglow,  Aurora,  Mikado 
and  Victory  were  four  conspicuous  sorts.  Mr.  S.  Mortimer, 
Rowledge,  Farnham,  Surrey,  was  a  good  second,  his  blooms 
also  being  well  arranged  and  of  excellent  colour,  Nelson 
Fisher,  Beacon  and  Britannia  being  particularly  notice- 
able in  this  respect. 

For  the  best  three  vases  of  12  blooms  each  of  American 
novelties  distributed  since  January  1, 1907,  there  were  only 
two  entries,  flrst  prize  being  won  by  Messrs.  Bell  and 
Sheldon,  Guernsey,  with  good  examples  of  Winona,  Pink 
Delight  and  May  Day. 

Colour  Classes  for  Twenty-five  Blooms.— For  any  white 
variety  there  were  five  entiies,  Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire, 
Guernsey,  being  first  with  a  beautiful  vase  of  White  Per- 
fection, the  flowers  being  very  large  and  pure.  Mr.  D.  M. 
Collins,  Swanley,  Kent,  was  a  close  second  with  grand 
fl  jwers  of  the  same  variety,  Messrs.  Bell  and  Sheldon  bting 
third,  also  with  White  Perfection. 

For  a  vase  of  any  blush  or  light  pink  variety,  Messrs. 
Bell  and  Sheldon  were  first  out  of  four  competitors  with  a 
splendid  vase  of  Winsor,  Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire  being 
second  with  Enchantress,  and  Mr.  D.  M.  Collins  third 
with  the  same  variety. 

A  splendid  vase  of  Rose  Dor^  won  flrst  prize  in  the  class 
for  a  vaae  of  a  rose  or  salmon  variety,  this  being  staged  by 
Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire,  the  colour  btjing  a  dull  scarlet  rose. 
Mr.  A.  F.  Dutton,  Iver  Nurseries,  Bucks,  was  second  with 
a  good  vase  of  the  new  May  Day,  and  Messrs.  Bell  and 
Sheldon  were  third  with  Mrs.  H.  Burnett. 

For  a  vase  of  deep  pink  or  cerise,  Messrs.  Bell  and 
Sheldon  were  first  with  Afterglow,  Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire 
being  second  with  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson,  and  Mr.  C.  Eogel- 
mann,  Saffron  Walden,  third  with  Afterglow. 

Five  vases  were  staged  in  the  crimson  class,  a  splendid 
lot  of  President  winning  first  honours  for  Mr.  W.  H.  Lan- 
cashire. Mr.  C.  Engelmann  waa  a  good  second  with  his  new 
Carola,  and  Union  Jack  won  third  prize  for  Mr.  A,  Smith, 
Eufleld  Highway. 

There  were  four  entries  in  the  scarlet  class,  Messrs.  Bell 
and  Sheldon  being  first  with  a  magnificent  vase  of 
Britannia,  which  also  won  the  society's  silver-gilt  medal 
offered  for  the  best  vaae  of  Carnations  shown  in  Claeaea  3 
to  10  inclusive.  Mr.  W.  Lancashire  waa  second  with 
Robert  Craig,  and  Mr.  C.  Engelmann  third  with  Bi  itannia. 

For  a  vase  of  any  other  colour  or  fancy,  only  two  exhibits 
were  staged,  Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire  being  first  with  a 
seedling  named  Emperor,  this  being  white,  striped  crimaon. 
Mr.  C.  Engelmann  waa  second  with  Vinca,  a  magenta 
flower  of  large  size.  For  twenty-five  blooms  of  any  variety 
not  yet  in  commerce,  Mr.  C.  Engelmann  was  flrst  with  an 
unnamed  large  crimson  scarlet,  Mr.  A.  Smith,  Eufleld 
Highway,  being  second  with  a  salmon  pink  variety  named 
Empire  Day,  third  prize  going  to  Mr.  J.  Green,  March, 
fur  a  white  variety. 

Messrs.  Felton  and  Sons'  first  prize  for  a  va^e  of  thirty- 
six  blooms,  to  be  arranged  for  decorative  eft>  ct,  was  won 
by  Messrs.  Bell  and  Sheldon  with  Britannia  arranged  with 


624 


THE     GARDEN. 


(December  18.  1909. 


AsparagoB  plumnsus  nanus.  Mr.  H.  J.  Dudney,  Erlfh, 
Kent,  was  second  with  white  and  cerise  Carnations 
arranged  with  Asparagus,  and  Mr.  W.  H.  Lancashire  was 
third  with  Enrhantress. 

Only  two  baslsetswere  entered  in  Class  13.  the  first -prize 
one  being  shown  by  Mrs.  Alex.  Rohinson.  Park  Hill. 
Oarehalton,  this  heinir  compo'ed  of  Camstion  Mrs.  H. 
llnrnett.  Asparagus  and  golden-leaved  Privet.  Th** second 
prize  was  won  by  Mr.  H.  J.  Dudney,  Erith,  this  basket  con- 
taining mixed  Carnations. 

For  a  bouquet  Messrs.  Rell  snd  Sheldon  were  first,  Mr. 
H.  J.  Dudney  second,  and  Mr.  J  Green  third. 

For  three  ladies'  sprays  of  Carnations,  .Sir  Randolf 
Baker,  Bart.,  Ranston,  Blanrtford  (gardener.  Mr.  A.  E. 
I'sher),  was  a  g^od  first  with  beaut'ful  designs,  Messrs. 
K.  F.  Felton  and  Sons,  Hanover  .Square,  b-ing  a  good 
second,  and  C.  F.  Raphael,  Esq.,  .Shenley  (gardener,  Mr. 
A  Oruhb),  third. 

For  six  genUemen's  button-holes  of  Carnations,  the  first 
prize  was  won  by  C  F  Riphae),  Esq.,  second  honours 
falling  to  Sir  Randolf  Baker,  Bart.,  and  third  to  Mr. 
H  .T.  Dudney. 

For  a  dinner-table  decoration  of  Carnations,  Messrs. 
R.  F.  Felton  and  .Sons,  Hanover  Square,  were  first  with  a 
very  beautiful  deoign  of  crimson  and  pink  Carnations, 
Asparagus  and  Smilax  forming  the  greenery,  but  this  was 
afterwsrds  disqualified  as  not  being  according  to  schedule, 
the  first  prize,  therffore.  going  to  Mrs.  Alex  Robinson 
for  a  beautifully  arranged  design  of  pink  varieties.  Sir 
Rsndolf  Baker.  Bart.,  was  second,  and  Mrs.  F.  Robinson, 
Dunstable,  third. 

Open  to  Gentlemen's  Oardeners  anh  Amateurs 
Only. 

For  a  group  of  Perpetual-flowering  Carnstion  plants,  to 
be  arranged  on  the  floor  in  a  given  space,  there  were  two 
entries.  Lord  Howard  de  Walden's  s'lver-g'lt  challenge 
vase  being  won  bv  C.  F.  Raphael,  Esq..  Shenley  (gardener, 
Mr.  A.  Grubb).  the  plants  shown  here  being  very  good 
indeed.  Lord  Burnbam,  Beaconsfleld  (gardener,  Mr  G 
.Tohnson),  was  the  other  exhibitor,  and  was  awarded  second 
prize. 

l^'or  the  best  collection  of  cut  Carnations,  to  be  arranged 
on  a  table  of  stated  size,  thdre  were  three  entries,  the  gold 
medal  and  first  prize  being  won  in  splendid  sty'e  by  Sir 
Randolf  Baker,  Bart.  A  Smilax  and  Carnation  clad  arch 
surmounted  this  exhibit,  snd  a'l  the  flowers  shown  were 
very  good  indeed.  The  silvf r-gilt  medal  and  second  prize 
went  to  Sir  Daniel  F  Gonch,  Bart.,  Hylands,  Chelmsford 
(gardener.  Mr.  P.  Wilkinson),  and  the  silver  medal  and 
third  prize  were  won  by  F.  May,  Eq  ,  Badlftt,  Herts. 

For  six  Carnation  plants  in  bloom  there  were  three 
entries,  first  prize  being  won  by  Sir  Randolf  Baker,  Bart., 
second  b'  Lord  Howard  de  Walden  (gardener,  Mr.  J.  Vert), 
and  third  by  C.  F.  Raphael,  Eq. 

For  three  plants  in  bloom  there  were  four  entries,  .Sir 
Randolf  Baker,  Bart .  again  b^ing  first,  the  same  exhibitor 
also  being  first  for  three  plants  in  Class  21. 

'I'he  chjillenge  cup  offered  by  Messrs.  Stuart  Low  and 
Co.,  f' r  a  vase  of  six  blooms  of  any  of  a  given  list  of 
varieties,  was  also  won  by  Sir  Rsndolf  Baker,  Bart.,  second 
pr'ze  being  secured  by  C.  F.  Raphael,  E  q.,  who  was  also 
fi'st  In  a  similar  class,  in  which  the  prize  was  offered  by 
Mr.  H.  Burnett. 

The  two  prizes  presented  by  The  Garden,  and  offered 
for  a  vase  of  one  or  more  varieties  of  Carnations,  to  be 
shown  with  Carnation  foliage  only  those  who  have  never 
won  either  a  first  or  second  prize  at  the  society's  shows 
being  eligible  to  compete,  were  won  respectively  by  F. 
Ricardo,  Esq.,  The  Friary  Gardens.  Old  Windsor  (gardener, 
Mr  G.  West),  and  Stewart  Robinson.  Esq.,  The  Oval", 
Kington.  Hereford-hire,  the  former  staging  a  splendid 
vase  of  Britannia  and  the  latter  a  vase  of  mixed  varieties. 

In  the  colour  classes  for  six  blooms  competition  was 
good,  the  first-prize  winner  in  each  instance  being  Sir 
Rsndolf  Baker.  Bart.,  who  showed  the  following  varieties  : 
White,  White  Perfection  (this  vase  also  winning  the  special 
prize  offered  for  the  best  exhibit  in  Classes  25  to  31 
inclusive):  blush  or  light  pink.  Enchantress;  rose  or 
salmon.  Rose  Dor6 ;  deep  pink  or  cerise,  Mrs.  T.  W.  Lawson  ; 
crimson.  The  President ;  scarlet,  Britannia;  and  any  other 
colour,  Imperial. 

New  Variety. 

Martj  Vilcen.—X  large, full  flower  of  bright  carmine-rose 
colour,  the  petals  being  even  and  calyx  good.  The  stems 
are  long  and  stout,  and  the  flower  should  prove  a  very 
useful  addition,  although  it  is  not  frag'-ant.  Shown  bv 
Messrs.  Blackmore  and  Lsngdon.  Bath.  This  wa  the  only 
variety  that  received  an  award  of  merit. 

MISCELLANEOUS    GROUPS. 

Messrs.  Stnart  Low  and  Co.,  Bush  Hill  Park,  Enfield, 
were  maintaining  their  high  reputation  with  a  wonderful 
circular  group  of  cut  flowers  arranged  with  suitable  foliage 
in  the  centre  of  the  hall,  a  series  of  pillars  and  arches 
surmounting  Ihe  whole  adding  much  to  the  beauty  of  this 
group.  In  addition,  the  flowers  used  were  of  Fplendid 
quality,  and  embraced  all  the  best  standard  and  new 
varieties  and  also  a  large  number  of  promising  seedlings. 
Messrs.  Low  were  also  showing  their  new  wire  supports 
on  plants  and  also  samples  of  manure.    Silver  medal. 

Mr  0.  Engelmann,  Saffron  Walden,  pnt  up  a  lovely  table 
length  of  bright  cut  flowers  tastefully  arranged  with 
foliage,  the  large  number  of  new  seedlings  of  more  than 
usual  merit  that  were  Included  creating  a  good  deal  of 
interest.  The  new  dark  crimson  varietv,  Carola,  occupied 
a  prominent  position  in  the  centre  and  was  much  admirtd. 
Gold  medal. 

Mr  W.  H.  P»ge,  Hampton,  put  up  a  flue  group  of 
Carnations  and  Lilies,  thefie  being  arranged  In  the  form  of 
a  steep  bank  and  comprising  all  the  leading  sorts.  Silver- 
gilt  medal. 


A  small  group  of  excellent  cut  flowers  came  from  Mr. 
.1  Green,  March,  these  being  arranged  in  vases  in  tiers, 
the  whole  hping  fresh  and  good.     Silver  mednl. 

Mr.  H.  Burnett,  Gnfrnsey,  put  up  a  beautiful  lot  of 
fresh  flowers,  these  being  arranged  with  Asparacrus  and 
Smilax  trails,  and  embraced  some  fine  new  seedlings  in 
addition  to  high-class  examples  of  the  leading  standard 
sorts.    Silver  gilt  medal. 

Messrs.  Ycuntr  and  Co.  of  Cheltenham  had  a  small  group 
of  well-grown  flowers  and  also  a  few  plants  in  2J-inch 
pots,  the  whole  being  in  excellent  condition.  Silvermedal. 

Messrs.  William  Cutbush  and  Son,  Highgate,  had  a  large 
and  well-arrangpd  group  of  cut  flowers  and  flowering 
plants,  these  including  all  the  best  varieties  and  being 
shown  in  well-nigh  perfect  condition.    Silver  medal. 

Public  park  for  Bang^or,  County 

Down,  Ireland. — The  Corporation  having 
offered  a  premium  for  the  beat  design  for  laying 
out  their  park,  a  large  number  of  designs  were 
submitted,  and  that  of  Messrs.  J.  Cheal  and  Sons 
nf  Crawley  and  London  was  awarded  the  first 
premium. 

Peter Barp  Memorial.— In  accordance 

with  a  generally  expressed  wish,  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society's  Narcissus  and  Tulip  Committee 
held  a  special  meeting  at  the  hall  on  Tuesday, 
December  7th.  to  consider  the  question  of  raising 
some  memorial  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  the 
late  Mr.  Peter  Birr.  It  was  decided  (1)  to  in- 
stitute a  medal  to  be  called  the  Peter  Bin- 
Medal,  to  be  given  annually  and  in  some  way 
to  be  connected  with  the  Daffodil  ;  and  ('2)  to  use 
the  balance  of  the  f  ubscriptions  to  provide  for  the 
maintenance  of  a  child  in  connexion  with  the 
Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund,  as  this  was  an  institu- 
tion in  which  he  had  taken  a  life-long  interest. 
The  members  of  the  Floral  and  Narcissus  Com- 
mittees were  nominated  to  act  as  a  general  com- 
mittee, and  a  small  sub-committee  consisting  of 
five  members  from  each  body  were  elected  to 
carry  out  the  above  resolutions.  The  following 
is  a  list  of  their  names:  Floral — Messrs.  Marshall, 
Bennett-Pfe.  Cuthbertson,  Hooper  Pearson  and 
C.  E.  Shea ;  Narcissus — Messrs.  H.  B.  May,  Curtis, 
Poupart,  W.  T.  Ware  and  the  Rev.  J.  Jacob. 
pprpetual  Flowerlner  Carnation 

Society. — The  annual  meeting  of  the  above 
society  was  held  at  the  Hotel  Windsor  on 
Tuesday  evening,  December  7,  Mr.  J.  S.  Brunton 
in  the  chair.  It  is  pleasant  to  be  able  to  record 
that  the  treasurer,  Mr.  Laurence  .J.  Cook, 
presented  a  balance-sheet  which  showed  a  surplus 
of  some  £28  after  the  expenses  of  the  year  had 
been  met,  and  that  the  annual  report,  which 
was  unanimously  adopted,  contained  several  very 
satisfactory  features.  Pfrhaps  the  two  most 
important  were  (1)  the  increase  in  membership 
of  sixty-four  in  the  past  year,  which  was  only 
ten  months  long,  owing  to  the  change  in  the 
date  of  the  ending  and  the  beginning  of  the 
society's  year  ;  and  (2)  the  issuing  of  a  Carnation 
Year  Book,  which  is  to  contain  articles  of  his- 
torical and  practical  interest  on  points  in  con- 
nexion with  the  introduction  and  culture  of  the 
flower.  It  was  decided  to  hold  the  next  show  in 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  hall  on  May  19, 
in  conjunction,  if  possible,  with  that  of  the 
National  Tulip  Society.  The  usual  officers  were 
elected  and  the  list  of  vice-presidents  consider- 
ably strengthened.  A  special  vote  of  thanks  was 
given  to  Mr.  Hayward  Mathias  for  the  vast 
amount  of  work  he  had  done  since  the  inception 
of  the  society,  and  the  treasurer  was  empowered 
to  receive  small  subscriptions  from  members  in 
order  to  present  him  with  some  tangible  token  of 
their  appreciation. 

Scottish  Horticultural  Associa- 
tion.— The  monthly  meeting  of  this  association 
was  held  in  the  hall  at  5,  St.  Andrew  Square, 
Edinburgh,  on  the  evening  of  December  7.  There 
was  a  large  attendance,  the  chair  being  occupied 
by  Mr.  James  Whytook,  Dalkeith  Palace  Gardens, 
president  of  the  association.  After  the  formal 
business  had  been  transacted,  a  highly  interest- 
ing debata  was  engaged  in.  The  subject  was, 
"  Is  Frost  Beneficial  to  the  Soil '? "  and  it  was 
opened  by  Mr.  George  P.  Berry  of  the  Edinburgh 
and  East  of  Scotland  College  of  Agriculture, 
who  championed  the    affirmative.      Mr.    Berry 


performed  his  duty  in  an  admirable  manner, 
pointing  out  the  value  of  frost  as  a  disintegrator, 
as  a  ventilator,  and  as  an  agent  for  the  destruc- 
tion of  bacteria,  insects  and  fungoid  growths. 
In  the  first  he  showed  that  but  for  the  disinte- 
grating influences  of  frost,  fertile  soil  would  not 
have  been  formed  in  many  parts  of  the  country. 
Its  influences  caused  the  detrition  of  rock,  which 
constituted  a  great  constituent  of  fertile  soil  in 
many  parts.  The  value  of  frost  as  a  means  of 
aerating  the  soil  was  also  advanced,  and  a  good 
point  was  made  in  the  discussion  by  the  argu- 
ment that  frost  was  highly  beneficial  in  ridding 
the  soil  of  diseases  and  pests.  Mr.  David  Storrie 
was  the  leading  speaker  on  the  other  side,  and 
discussed  the  question  from  another  aspect.  He 
contended  that  water  and  air  were  more  bene- 
ficial in  the  processes  of  disintegration  and 
ventilation  than  frost,  and  that  fungi  and 
bacteria  were  not  killed  by  the  frost,  but  only 
made  inactive,  ready  to  begin  again  when  the 
arresting  influences  ceased.  Other  good  points 
were  made,  and  the  whole  debate  was  a  highly 
instructive  one. 

"  Country  Life  "  for  December  IS  con- 
tains, among  other  articles  :  An  illustrated 
account  of  Moyles  Court,  Hampshire  ;  "  Tale  of 
Country  Life:  The  Mountains  and  Miss  Curtice," 
by  John  Birnett ;  "  A  Personal  Reminiscence  of 
Richard  Jefferies,"  by  Jos.  Hall  ;  "  The  South- 
wold  Horses"  (illustrated);  "Insect-Catching 
Plants"  (illustrated)  ;  "  Scottish  River  Pearls"  ; 
"An  Old  Home  of  the  Carews "  (illustrated)  ; 
"Wild  Country  Life";  "In  the  Garden" 
(illustrated). 


TRADB     NOTES. 

Good  Spravino  Machines. 
The  "Four  Oaks"  undentable  syringes  are  justly  noted 
for  their  easy  working  and  effective  qualities ;  and  the 
"  Four  Oaks "  spraying  machines  are  of  the  same  high 
quality.  As  many  of  our  readers  are  aware,  spraying 
for  the  destruction  of  many  pests  is  now  in  full 
swing,  and  no  up-to-date  fruit  farm  or  garden  can  aft'ord 
to  be  without  spraying  apparatus  of  some  kind.  Anyone 
intending  to  purchase  syringes  or  machines  csnnot  do 
better  than  write  to  the  *'  Four  Oaks  "  Syringe  and  Spraying 
Machine  Company,  Sutton  Coldfield,  Birmingham,  for- 
their  free  illustrated  price-lists. 

Unwin's  Sweet  Peas. 
Mr  W.  .T.  Unwin,  the  well-known  Sweet  Pea  expert  of 
Iliston,  Cambs,  sends  us  his  Sweet  Pea  catalogue  for  1910, 
which  we  have  looked  through  with  interest.  As  usual, 
Mr.  Unwin  has  some  splendid  novelties  to  otfer,  as  well 
as  the  cream  of  the  older  varieties.  These  are  arranged  in 
sections  according  to  colour,  a  s>stem  which  should 
prove  of  great  assistance  to  those  not  quite  familiar  with 
all  the  varieties  mentioned.  We  had  the  pleasure  of 
inspecting  Mr  Unwin's  Sweet  Peas  in  .Tuly  last,  and  can 
with  every  confidence  recommend  them  to  our  readers. 
Mr.  Unwin  will  send  a  free  copy  of  his  catalogue  to  anyone 
who  cares  to  write  for  it. 

"The  Factory  in  a  Garden." 
This  is  the  title  of  an  exceedingly  interesting  and  well 
illustrated  bu  'klet  which  we  have  received  from  Messrs. 
Cadbury  Brothers,  BouT-nville,  Worcester.  As  most  of  our 
readers  are  aware,  Messrs.  Cadbury's  garden  town  at 
BournvlUe  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  country, 
and  chocolate  and  cocoa  manufactured  there  are  certainly 
produced  under  ideal  conditions.  Full  particulars  of  the 
gardens  and  works  are  given  in  the  booklet  referred  to, 
and  we  presume  Messrs.  Cadbury  will  send  a  copy  free  to 
any  of  our  readers  who  care  to  apply  for  it. 


PpELiCATio.vs  Received. 

The  Christmas  Number  of  the  Sundat/  Strand  contains 
many  delightful  articles  thoroughly  appropiiate  to  the 
season.  It  is  a  real  Christmas  Number,  and  brings 
home  the  reality  of  this  festival  of  peace  and  goodwill. 
Published  by  Messrs.  George  Newnes,  Limited,  South- 
ampton Street,  Strand,  W.C. 

The  Grand  ilaijazine  Christmas  Number.— An  entertain- 
ing number,  full  of  interesting  and  appropriate  stories, 
Although  there  are  no  illustrations.  theGrand  Magazine 
is  always  one  of  the  most  welcome  of  the  monthly 
periodicals.  George  Newnes,  Limited,  .Southampton 
.street.  Strand  ;  price  4Jd.  net. 

"  Bulletin  No.  10  of  the  Department  of  Intelligence  for 

"  Monthly  (jleanings  in  a  Scottish  Garden,"  by  Lucy  H. 
Soutar  ;  price  6a.  net.  Mr.  T.  Fisher  Unwin,  1,  Adtslphi 
Terrace,  London,  W.C. 


♦«*  The  Yearly  SuMariptvm  to  THE  SABDBII  w ;  Inland, 
6e.  6d. ;  Foreign,  8a.  9d, 


Supplement  io  THE  GARDEN,  December  }S,th,  1909. 


JEW    SINGLE     CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

scuit  colour.  Peter  Pan,  Red  and  Yellow,  IVlersthani  Jewel 


Huitstm  &  Kettms,  I.UI.,  Fi-intcrs,  Lotuinn,  S.F.. 


GARDEN. 


M53& 


■0^- 


No.  1988.— Vol.  LXXIII. 


December  25,  1909. 


CONTBNTS. 


A    Cold    Fkame   and 
Its  Uses    

Notes  op  thb  Webk 
Heading     Gardeners' 
Association    , . 

GOBREBPOBDEROB 

An  excellent  type  of 

■    the  single-flowered 

Chrysanthemum  . . 

Grease-banding  fruit 

trees  

Climbing  plants  and 

buildings        . .     . . 

The  Editor's  Table     . . 

FRniT  Garden 

Fruit  notes        , .     . . 

Apple  production  . . 
Geeenhotjse 

Gloxinias  and  their 
culture    

An  interesting 
winter  -  flowering 
greenhouse  plant.. 

Cleaning  greenhouse 


ROBB  GARDEN 
Notes    on    newer 
Hoses.— XIII. 
John  Gerard.— II. 


G26 


FlOWEE  GARDEN 

Preparing  ground  for 
rock  garden    , .     . .    6.31 

A  border  of  Wall- 
flowers and  Forget- 
me-nots   631 

Delphinium  Moer- 
heimil     631 

GARDENIN8  FOR  BEGINNERS 

Garden  work  week  by 

week        6:i2 

Increasing  the  Geums 
and  Spiraeas   by 

division 632 

The  Towh  Garden  ..    63.5 
Gardehids  of  the  Week 
For    the  South    and 
South  Midlands    . . 
For  the    North    and 
North  Midlands  .. 
Royal     Horticultural 
and  Botanic  Societies 
ANSWERS     TO     CORRE 
BP0NDBRT8 
Flower  garden  . . 
Trees  and  shrubs 
Rose  garden 
Greenhouse . .    . . 
Fruit  garden     . . 
Miscellaneous  .. 


034 
634 


634 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A  good  type  of  market  Chrysanthemum       627 

Young  plants  on  flower-stem  of  Saxifraga  pyramidalis  627 

Delphinium  Moerheimii       628 

A  little-known  greenhouse  plant,  Plectranthus  crassus  629 

"  Barnacle  Geese-,"  from  Gerard's  Herbal      630 

A  border  of  Wallflowers  edged  with  Forget-me-nots. .  631 
Increasing  the  Geums  and  Spiraeas  by  division  . .    632,  633 


EDITORIAL!    NOTIOBS. 

Bvery  depa/rtment  of  horticulture  is  represented  in  THK 
Gakben,  and  the  Sditor  invites  readers  to  send  in  questions 
relaMng  to  matters  upon  which  they  loish  advice  from 
competent  authorities.  With  that  object  he  wishes  to  malte 
the  " Ansioers  to  Correspondents"  colwnn  a  conspicuous 
feature,  trnd^  when  queries  are  printed^  he  hopes  readers 
unU  kindly  give  enquirers  the  benefit  oS  their  assistaruse. 
AU  communicatums  must  be  unitten  cleanly  on  one  side 
only  0/  the  paper,  a/nd  addressed  to  the  Bditob  of  The 
Qabdbn,  accompaaiied  by  na/me  and  address  qf  the  send&r. 


The  Editor  welcomes  photographs^  articles^  and  notes  ^ 
out  he  vjUI  Tiot  be  responsible  for  their  safe  return.  AU 
reasonable  core,  h4nt>ever,  vrill  be  taken,  and  where  stamps 
are  enclosed^  he  wiU  endeavour  to  return  Tutn'Oceepted 
aontributions,  

As  rega/rds  photographs,  %f  payment  be  desired^  the 
Editor  asks  that  the  prioe  required  for  reproduction  be 
plainly  stated.  It  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  only 
the  actual  photographer  or  ovmer  of  the  copyright  will  be 
treated  with.  

The  Editor  will  not  be  responsible  for  the  return  of  artistic 
or  literary  contributions  which  he  may  not  be  a^le  to  use, 
and  the  receipt  qf  a  proof  must  not  be  taken  as  eviden  :e 
that  an  article  is  accepted.  Publication  in  THB  GAitDSN 
MfiS  alone  be  recognised  as  acoeptOTKe. 


Onuses:  XOt  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  W.C. 


A    COLD    FRAME    AND    ITS 

USES. 

GARDENERS  take  the  cold  frame  so 
much  as  a  matter  of  course  that 
it  is  only  when  one  is  asked  to 
what  uses  it  can  be  put  that  its 
great  value  is  fully  realised. 
Without  it  the  greenhouse,  flower  garden  or 
kitchen  garden  cannot  be  utilised  to  the  best 
advantage  or  to  the  fullest  extent.  Taking  gar- 
dening as  a  whole  or  any  branch  of  it,  the  cold 
frame  is  certain  to  be  a  necessity. 

The  size  of  the  common  garden  frame  varies 
considerably.  The  standard  size  of  a  light  is 
4  feet  wide  by  6  feet  long,  and  a  frame  may  be  a 
one,  two  or  three  light  one.  The  depth  at  the 
back  varies  from  9  inches  to  2  feet,  according  to 
the  work  they  are  to  do.  These  are  the  most 
generally  used,  being  easily  moved  about  as 
required.  The  large  span-roofed  frames  opening 
from  either  side  are  practically  miniature  green- 
houses, and  are  of  special  value  for  plants  that 
require  a  lot  of  head  room. 

General  Management.  —  Frames  and  lights 
should  be  well  cleaned  with  hot  soapy  water  in 
spring  and  autumn,  and  the  outside  glass  as  often 
as  necessary.  They  should  be  kept  well  painted 
and  drip-proof,  as  a  light  that  drips  loses  half 
its  value.  Sifted  ashes  a  few  inches  deep  and 
made  firm  provide  the  best  bottom  to  stand  pot 
plants  on,  as  they  keep  out  worms  and  help  to 
maintain  the  atmosphere  moist.  If  a  frame  is 
stood  on  soft  soil,  a  brick  or  something  solid 
should  be  placed  under  each  corner  to  keep  it 
level  and  prevent  warping,  as  if  this  is  allowed 
to  happen,  it  is  certain  sooner  or  later  to  cause 
drip.  Crops  that  come  to  maturity  in  a  cold 
frame  will  require  a  good  depth  of  soil ;  but  for 
striking  cuttings  or  pricking  out  seedlings 
where  pots  or  boxes  are  not  used,  ram  the  ash 
bottom  hard,  put  3  inches  of  the  required  soil  on 
this  to  put  the  plants  or  cuttings  into,  and  when 
planting-out  time  comes  they  can  be  lifted  with 
a  nice  ball  of  soil  and  will  su£fer  scarcely  any 
check. 

Ventilating  and  Watering. — A  block  of  wood 
about  1|  inches  thick,  with  three  notches  cut  in 
it  much  like  steps  up  a  staircase,  is  very  useful 
for  ventilating  with,  and  as  this  can  be  done  from 
the  top,  bottom  or  either  side  of  the  light,  cold, 
cutting  winds  should  never  be  allowed  to  blow 
straight  in.  In  spring,  when  growing  early 
crops,  every  advantage  should  be  taken  of  sun- 
heat.  The  frame  should  have  a  little  ventilation 
before  it  gets  very  hot,  and  this  should  be 
increased  later  if  needed.  The  plants  may  be 
syringed  and  shut  up  before  the  sun  gets  off  the 
frame,  and  be  covered  in  good  time  to  keep  in  as 
much  heat  as  possible  during  the  night.  Clean 
rain-water  is  the  best,  both  for  watering  and 
syringing,  and  it  should  be  used  lukewarm. 
Hardening  off  should  be  done  gradually.  In 
autumn  air  should  be  given  on  every  possible 
occasion  to  get  plants  as  hardy  as  possible  for 
the  winter.     All  decaying  leaves  should  be  kept 


picked  off  the  plants  and  the  soil  in  which  they 
are  growing  lightly  stirred  occasionally  to  keep 
it  sweet,  especially  during  the  winter.  Watering 
should  always  be  done  with  care  in  winter ; 
give  too  little  rather  than  too  much.  A  plant 
dry  at  the  roots  will  live  through  a  frost  that 
would  kill  it  if  it  were  wet. 

Protectiny  in  Cold  Weather. — Mats  are  gene- 
rally used  for  this,  but  many  other  things  will  do, 
such  as  old  carpet,  sacking,  blinds,  waterproof 
sheeting,  and  even  strawy  litter  where  the 
untidiness  it  causes  is  not  objected  to.  What- 
ever is  used,  dry  material  will  keep  out  much 
more  frost  than  wet ;  so  if  the  outer  covering  is 
waterproof  so  much  the  better.  Coverings 
should  always  be  put  on  early  in  the  day  during 
frosty  weather.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  let  the 
glass  get  frosted  over  before  doing  so.  In  very 
severe  weather  the  covering  may  stay  on  day  and 
night,  protecting  the  sides  and  ends  with  ashes 
or  strawy  litter  or  dry  earth.  If  plants  get 
frozen,  keep  the  covering  on  the  frame  till  they 
are  thoroughly  thawed  and  shade  from  sun  for  a 
few  days. 

The  Frame  in  Spring. — The  most  important 
use  of  a  cold  frame  in  spring  is  for  raising  early 
supplies  of  vegetables  and  annual  flowering 
plants.  The  vegetables  would  include  Potatoes, 
Peas,  Carrots,  Spinach,  Lettuce,  Turnips,  Radish 
and  dwarf  French  Beans  to  come  to  maturity 
where  sown.  The  best  place  for  these  is  in  a 
sunny  position  on  well-worked  ground  in  the 
kitchen  garden,  and  the  frames  can  often  be 
lifted  off  them  and  used  for  other  purposes  before 
the  crops  have  reached  maturity.  Onions, 
Celery,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Leeks,  Cauliflowers 
and  Cabbage  can  be  grown  for  early  crops,  to  be 
planted  out  when  the  weather  is  suitable. 
Runner  Beans  planted  in  shallow  boxes  about 
May  Day  will  be  ready  to  plant  out  early  in  June 
when  danger  from  frost  is  over.  They  trans- 
plant well  and  amply  repay  the  little  extra 
trouble.  Practically  all  the  hardy  and  half- 
hardy  annuals  can  be  raised  in  a  cold  frame,  such 
as  Asters,  Antirrhinums,  Marigolds,  Stocks, 
Verbenas,  Scabious,  Phlox  Drummondii,  Petunias 
and  many  others  doing  well.  I  have  always 
found  it  best  to  sow  the  seeds  in  pots,  pans  or 
shallow  boxes  about  the  first  week  in  March, 
and  to  prick  out  into  boxes  or  into  soil  in  the 
frames  as  soon  as  the  little  plants  are  large 
enough  to  handle.  Every  reader  of  The  Garden 
has  read  how  to  start  Sweet  Peas  in  a  frame. 
Chrysanthemums  for  pot  work  that  have  been 
rooted  in  the  greenhouse  after  they  have  been 
potted  off  and  established  need  to  be  put  into  a 
cold  frame  to  keep  them  sturdy  and  to  harden 
them  ready  for  standing  outside.  Dahlia  |ubers 
should  be  put  in  a  cold  frame  about  the  end  of 
April  and  have  a  little  soil  shaken  over  them. 
The  lights  can  be  taken  off  on  warm  days  to  keep 
the  young  growths  sturdy.  They  must  be  pro- 
tected if  there  is  any  danger  of  frost.  All 
the  different  plants  grown  in  the  greenhouse 
during  winter  and  spring  for  summer  bedding 
need  to  be  gradually  hardened  in  cold  frames. 
Some  of  them,  such  as  Lobelia,  Pyrethrum  and 
Cineraria  maritima,  are  never  more  satisfactory 
than  when  pricked  out  in  a  frame  in  April  to 
make  sturdy  growth  before  planting  outside. 
Polyanthuses  and  alpine  Auriculas  should  be  sown 


626 


THE     GARDEN. 


[December  25,  1909. 


thinly  in  pans  of  sandy  loam  in  Maroh,  and 
planted  out  in  good  soil  in  a  half-shady  border 
whon  large  enough  to  handle. 

The  Frame  in  Summer. — In  late  spring  Cucum- 
bers and  Melons  may  be  planted.  A  good  Melon 
for  this  purpose  is  Carter's  Hardy  Frame  Melon. 
It  is  of  good  size  and  flavour,  and  will  thrive 
without  bottom-heat.  Cucumbers  require  a 
richer  soil  than  Melons,  and  also  shading  during 
bright  sunshine.  The  seeds  of  both  should  be 
sown  in  3inch  pots,  and  the  seedlings  planted 
out  when  large  enough.  The  soil  should  be  put 
into  the  frames  long  enough  to  get  well  warmed 
before  the  plants  are  set  out  in  it.  Tomatoes 
can  be  grown  well  in  a  cold  frame.  Put  a  board 
across  the  frame  1  foot  from  the  bottom,  fill  in 
with  good  loamy  soil  to  the  depth  of  6  inches, 
plant  four  plants  to  a  light  at  equal  distances 
apart,  and  train  on  strings  stretched  6  inches 
under  the  glass.  Keep  the  side  growths  picked 
out,  water  and  ventilate  carefully,  especially  at 
first.  Feed  with  manure-water  after  the  first 
bunch  of  fruit  has  begun  to  swell.  A  cold  frame 
with  a  good  ash  bottom  is  the  most  suitable  place 
for  the  culture  during  the  summer  and  autumn 
months  of  many  of  our  winter  and  spring  flower- 
ing greenhouse  plants.  Cyclamen,  Cinerarias, 
Calceolarias  (herbaceous)  and  Primulas  all  need 
the  protection  of  a  frame  to  keep  off  heavy  rains 
and  to  be  shaded  from  bright  aun.  The  three 
last-named  can  be  sown  in  the  frames  in  pans  of 
sandy  soil  and  potted  on  as  required.  The  middle 
of  June  is  a  good  time  for  sowing  herbaceous 
Calceolarias,  May  for  Cinerarias  and  April  for 
Primulas.  Take  the  lights  off  on  calm,  dewy 
nights  in  summer  and  early  autumn,  as  after  hot, 
drying  days  this  is  very  invigorating  to  the 
plants. 

Winter-flowering  Carnations  need  the  pro- 
tection of  a  cold  frame  when  first  brought  out 
of  the  greenhouse  and  during  heavy  rains,  and 
at  other  times  the  lights  can  be  taken  off  and  the 
plants  exposed  to  the  full  sun  and  air  with  the 
pots  plunged  to  the  rims  in  sifted  ashes.  One  of 
the  best  ways  of  propagating  these  plants  is  in 
a  cold  frame  in  August  in  pots  of  sandy  soil.  At 
the  same  time  many  other  cuttings  that  require 
to  be  kept  close  can  be  rooted  with  them,  such 
as  Heliotrope,  Iresine,  Marguerites  for  early 
spring  blooming  in  the  greenhouse,  Coleus  for 
stock,  and  Hydrangea  Hortensis  to  flower  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  one  bloom  on  a  plant.  Roses  will  root 
well  at  the  same  time,  using  half-ripened  shoots 
and  putting  them  into  sandy  soil,  four  in  aS-inoh 
pot  or  a  few  inches  apart  in  deep  boxes.  Winter 
and  spring  flowering  Stocks  should  be  sown  about 
August  1,  and  grown  as  sturdily  as  possible  till 
taken  into  the  greenhouse  or  planted  outside  in 
spring.  I  always  sow  Schizanthus  (large- flowered 
hybrids)  at  the  same  time  and  keep  them  in  the 
frame  till  room  can  be  found  in  the  greenhouse. 
They  will  stand  several  degrees  of  frost  if  kept 
dry  at  the  root.  Hollyhocks,  Coreopsis  grandi- 
flora.  Marguerite  Carnations,  Pansies.Gaillardias, 
Antirrhinums  and  Pentstemons  sown  the  end  of 
July  or  early  in  August  and  wintered  in  a  cold 
frame  are  far  superior  to  those  sown  in  heat  in 
spring.  Those  who  have  not  grown  Antirrhi- 
nums in  this  way,  thus  getting  sturdy  little 
plants  with  from  six  to  eight  shoots  on  ready  to 
plant  out  in  April,  do  not  know  what  this 
flower  is  capable  of.  Freesias  potted  in  sandy 
soil  the  first  week  in  August  may  be  kept  in  a 
•cold  frame  till  November ;  if  then  brought  into  a 
temperature  of  45°  to  50°  they  will  flower  by 
Christmas.  Lachenalias  require  the  same  treat- 
ment, but  flower  about  February.  Roman  Hya- 
cinths potted  in  August  and  at  fortnightly 
intervals  can  be  flowered  in  a  cold  frame  from 
November  till  spring. 

The  Frame  in  Autumn. — Cuttings  of  Calceo- 
larias, Pentstemons  and  Violas  should  be  put  in 
sandy  soil  and  kept  close  till  rooted.  Carnation 
layers  may  be  potted  up.  Lobelia  oardinalis 
and  any  other  plants  that  are  not  perfectly  hardy 
must  be  got  in  before  severe  frost  comes,  as  plants 
that  have  been  frozen  winter  badly,  there  always 


being  a  tendency  to  damp  off.  After  the  outdoor 
Chrysanthemums  have  finished  blooming,  a  few 
plants  of  each  variety  should  be  lifted  and  placed 
in  a  frame  for  stock.  If  these  are  nicely  covered 
with  some  sandy  soil,  the  young  shoots  which 
grow  in  spring  can  generally  be  pulled  off  with  a 
few  roots  at  their  base,  and  if  put  into  boxes 
soon  make  nice  plants  for  planting  in  the  borders 
in  April.  Violets  should  be  put  into  cold  frames 
in  September,  well  watered  in,  and  kept  close 
and  shaded  for  a  few  days  afterwards.  They 
must  be  ventilated  on  all  favourable  occasions 
and  be  well  protected  from  frost.  Solanums, 
Salvias,  Arums  and  other  plants  that  have  been 
grown  in  the  open  ground  always  recover  the 
check  caused  by  lifting  more  quickly  if  put  into 
a  close  frame  and  shaded  for  a  few  days.  Spir«as, 
Lily  of  the  Valley,  Dielytras,  Campanulas  pyra- 
midalis  and  persicifolia,  Liliums  and  other 
forcing  plants  when  potted  in  the  autumn  should 
be  placed  in  a  cold  frame  till  wanted  for  the 
greenhouse.  Lettuce  and  Endive  plants  for 
winter  use  should  be  put  into  a  frame  before 
there  is  danger  of  severe  frost.  I  always  sow  a 
bed  of  Parsley  about  the  end  of  June  and  place  a 
frame  over  it  in  October.  It  is  well  ventilated 
during  mild  weather  and  covered  during  frost, 
and  gives  a  supply  of  Parsley  through  the  winter 
and  earlv  spring. 

The  Frame  in  Winter. — Its  great  use  at  this 
season  is  to  protect  the  many  occupants  of  our 
gardens  which  are  not  perfectly  hardy  and 
others,  which  more  often  than  not  it  is  the  damp 
rather  than  the  cold  that  kills  them  if  left  in  the 
open  ground.  Bulbs,  after  being  taken  out  of 
the  plunging  material,  should  be  placed  in  a 
cold  frame  and  gradually  exposed  to  the  light, 
being  taken  into  the  greenhouse  as  required. 
They  can  also  be  brought  into  flower  in  the 
frame  a  considerable  time  before  those  in  the 
open.  J.  Rawlings. 

The  Gardens,  Ridgtmount,  Enfidd. 


NOTES   OF   THE    WEEK. 


The  National  Rose  Society.— The 

provincial  show  (the  date  is  not  yet  fixed)  of 
this  society  will  be  held  at  Salisbury,  one 
of  the  most  suitable  Southern  cities  for  such  an 
exhibition. 

United  Hoptlcultupal  Benefit  and 

Provident  Society.— The  monthly  com- 
mittee meeting  of  this  society  was  held  at  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Hall  on  Monday,  December 
1.3.  Mr.  Charles  H.  Curtis  presided.  Four  new 
members  were  elected  and  one  nominated.  The 
sum  standing  to  the  credit  of  the  late  Mr.  .1.  C. 
Tallaok  in  the  society's  books,  viz.,  £39  Is.  6d., 
was  granted  to  his  widow.  Three  members  over 
si  xty  years  of  age  were  granted  their  interest  as  per 
Rule  18.  Two  distressed  members  were  relieved 
from  the  Benevolent  Fund.  Sick  pay  since  the 
last  meeting  was  £44  7s. 

Readings  Gardeners'  Associa- 
tion— At  the  fortnightly  meeting  held  in  the 
Abbey  Hall  on  Monday,  the  6th  inst. ,  there  was 
not  such  a  good  attendance  as  has  been  recorded 
on  recent  occasions.  The  president,  who  occu- 
pied the  chair,  facetiously  remarked  that  perhaps 
some  of  the  members  felt  a  little  nervous,  as 
there  was  to  be  no  regular  subject,  the  evening 
being  devoted  to  impromptu  speaking.  The 
minutes  of  the  last  meeting  were  read  and 
confirmed.  The  hon.  secretary  presented 
the  balance  -  sheet  of  the  recent  exhibi- 
tion, which  showed  receipts,  £32  lOe.  8d.  ;  ex- 
penditure,£13  15s.  2d. ;  net  proceeds,  £18  15s.  61. 
The  latter  sum  has  since  been  augmented 
by  a  generous  gift,  from  one  who  is  not  a 
member  of  the  association,  of  £1  4s.  6d.,  to 
make  the  amount  an  even  sum  of  £20,  by  which 
the  Gardeners'  Royal  Benevolent  Institution  and 
the  Royal  Gardeners'  Orphan  Fund  will  benefit. 
With    the    object    of    encouraging    impromptu 


speaking  a  number  of  questions  had  been  pre- 
pared, each  bearing  a  number.  The  chairman 
then  drew  from  a  batch  of  tickets  bearing  corre- 
sponding figures,  and  the  holder  of  the  number 
called  immediately  rose  and  spoke  on  the  subject 
named  on  his  question  paper.  The  programme 
worked  out  remarkably  well,  as  apart  from  the 
regular  speakers  at  the  meetings,  several  mem- 
bers not  frequently  heard,  notably  some  of  the 
younger  gardeners,  were  induced  to  display  some 
of  their  oratorical  powers.  After  the  questions 
were  exhausted,  discussion  was  invited,  and  an 
exceedingly  instructive  hour  ensued.  Mr.  Parfitt 
being  obliged  to  leave  early,  the  chairman  of  the 
committee  (Mr.  A.  F.  Bailey)  presided  during 
the  latter  half  of  the  evening. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

(The  Editor  is  not  responsible  for  the  opinions 
expressed  by  correspondents.) 


Bractiygrlottis    repanda.— I  was 

interested  to  see  the  illustration  on  page  590  of 
Braohyglottis  repanda  flowering  in  New  Zealand. 
In  this  country  it  is  by  no  means  a  free  bloomer 
when  grown  in  the  open  in  ordinary  conditions. 
A  few  years  ago  the  Rev.  Arthur  Bosoawen  of 
Ludgvan  Rectory  exhibited  a  flower-spike  in  the 
hard-wooded  shrub  class  at  Plymouth.  This 
was  not  borne  by  his  big  plant,  which  was  about 
12  feet  high  and  as  much  through,  but  was  a 
chance  spike  from  a  smaller  specimen.  While 
visiting  a  nursery  near  Plymouth  in  1905  I  saw 
a  plant  in  a  large  pot  which  was  bearing  about 
twenty  flower-spikes,  and  determined  to  see 
what  root-restriction  would  effect  for  my  speci- 
men, which  had  never  bloomed.  On  my  return 
home  I  had  a  trench  dug  around  it  at  a  distance 
of  about  3  feet  from  the  main  stem  to  a  depth  of 
4  feet,  and  this  was  completely  filled  with  stones 
to  the  ground  level.  During  the  winter  about  a 
dozen  flower-spikes  were  formed,  but  were  all 
killed  by  a  severe  frost.  The  next  year  the 
bloom-spikes  showed  no  sign  of  forming  until 
after  Christmas,  and  were  not  sufficiently  ad- 
vanced to  be  injured  by  the  frost  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  year.  Later  on  these 
developed  well,  and  the  bush,  which  was  nearly 
8  feet  in  height  and  7  feet  in  diameter,  was 
literally  covered  with  them,  268  being  counted, 
though  there  were  probably  many  more.  An  illus- 
tration of  this  specimen  appeared  in  the  Gardener's 
Chronicle  on  July  18,  1908,  likewise  one  of  a 
flower- spike  which  measured  12  inches  in  height 
and  16  inches  across  the  base.  When  the  spikes 
had  reached  perfection,  the  whole  bush  was 
smothered  by  the  inflorescence,  and  was  a  very 
pretty  sight.  Each  cluster  was  composed  of 
countless,  minute  flowers  of  a  greenish  white 
tint,  and  these,  when  at  their  best,  were 
decidedly  attractive.  As  a  foliage  plant  it  is 
also  very  ornamental.  The  leaves,  which  un- 
curl when  they  are  about  an  inch  in  length,  are 
at  first  of  a  warm  ivory  tint,  a  hue  they  retain 
until  they  are  nearly  3  inches  long,  when  the 
upper  surface  becomes  pale  green.  This  colour 
deepens  with  age  to  a  dark,  glossy  green,  hand- 
somely clouded  with  purple-maroon.  The  under 
side  is  coated  with  a  silvery  white  tomentum, 
and  as  many  of  the  leaves  display  the  reverse,  a 
pleasing  contrast  to  the  prevailing  dark  green  of 
the  foliage  is  formed.  The  ovate  leaves,  which 
sometimes  attain  a  length  of  12  inches  and  a 
breadth  of  8  inches,  are  carried  on  footstalks 
from  4  inches  to  6  inches  in  lengtli.  The  plant 
was  introduced  from  New  Zealand  in  1896,  and 
has  been  known  at  different  times  under  the 
names  of  Senecio  Fosteri,  S.  Georgii  and 
Cineraria  repanda. — Wyndham  Fitzherbbrt. 

Fruiting:  of  Steplianotis  flori- 
bunda. — Noticing  your  answer  to  "  S.  B."  on 
the  above  subject  in  The  Garden  of  the  11th 
inst. ,  page  607,  I  should  like  to  say  we  have  at 


Dkcember  25,  1909. 


THE     GARDEN. 


627 


the  present  time  three  fruits  on  our  plant  here 
coming  to  maturity.  This  plent  flowered  twice 
last  summer,  and  the  fruits  set  from  the  first 
flowering.  I  was  pleased  to  read  your  descriptive 
note,  as  I  was  anxious  to  know  more  of  the  fruit. 
This  is  the  first  time  I  have  seen  this  plant 
fruiting. — J.  S.  HloQiNS,  Bug  Gardens,  Gormen, 
North  Wales. 

An  excellent  type  of  the  single- 
floweped   Chpysaathemum.— No  one 


A   GOOD   TYPE   or    MARKET   CBRTSANTHEMUM. 

will  deny  that  there  has  recently  been  considerable 
improvement  in  the  single-flowered  Chrysanthe- 
mums. Points  of  merit  vary  according  to  the 
uses  for  which  the  plants  are  grown.  For 
instance,  growers  of  these  plants  for  the  con- 
servatory or  for  providing  an  abundant  supply 
of  charming  sprays  of  blossoms  for  indoor 
decorations  have  quite  a  different  standard  of 
quality  to  that  recognised  by  those  who  think  only 
of  the  market.  The  latter  look  with  disfavour 
on  all  single  Chrysanthemums  unless  the  blooms 
have  three  or  four  (more  or  less)  rows  of  petals. 
They  argue  that  unless  the  flowers  possess  several 
rows  of  petals  they  travel  badly,  and  in  conse- 
quence of  this  have  little  commercial  value.  It 
is  a  very  good  thing  that  this  market  standard 
of  single  -  flowered  Chrysanthemums  does  not 
generally  obtain,  for  if  it  did  many  of  the  most 
beautiful  would  be  entirely  lost.  At  the  present 
time  there  are  numerous  dainty  single  varieties  ; 
they  are  of  stellate  form,  and  in  consequence 
well  adapted  for  home  decorative  uses.  Some  of 
the  prettiest  and  most  beautiful  sprays  and 
individual  blossoms  of  the  single-flowered  Chry- 
santhemums that  I  have  seen  this  season  have 
been  of  star-like  form.  In  a  cut  state  the 
flowers  have  kept  fresh  for  fully  three  weeks, 
and  in  a  few  oases  for  an  even  longer  period. 
Readers  of  The  Garden  should  acquire  a  few 
plants  of  some  of  these  stellate  forms  for  next 
season's  decorations.  A  true  single-flowered 
Chrysanthemum  should  contain  not  more  than  a 
double  row  of  ray  florets,  and  these  should  be 
arranged  sufficiently  close  together  to  form  a 
dense  fringe.  The  accompanying  illustration 
shows  the  form  a  good  single  Chrysanthemum 
should  possess.  It  is  an  undisbudded  spray,  and 
no  manipulation  has  been  allowed.  The  blooms 
are  of  medium  size,  and  of  this  type  there  are 
many  beautiful  examples.  A  few  good  varieties 
are  the  following  :  Earlswood  Beauty  (primrose), 
Diisy  Brett  (white).  Sir  George  BuUough  (deep 
yellow),  Miss  Irene  Cragg  (white),  Mrs.  C.  Symms 
(blush  pink),  The  Lion  (rosy  red),  Miss  Mary 
Anderson  (blush  white),  Mrs.  J.  Ferguson  (pink), 
Miss  Annie  Holden  (yellow)  and  Gladys  Hemsley 
pink). — D.  B.  Crane. 
Qpease-bandlng  fpult  tpees.— Does 

your   correspondent   P.    Clayton,   who    protests 


against  the  practice  of  grease-banding  fruit  trees 
to  form  traps  to  catch  the  female  winter  moth, 
assume  that  the  grease  is  applied  direct  to  the 
bark,  or  does  he  assume  that  the  grease  soaks 
through  the  paper  bands  and  thus  dangerously 
affects  the  bark  ?  It  is  strange  that,  after  this 
practice  has  been  so  long  in  existence,  we  should 
only  now  hear  of  this  assumed  danger.  If  in 
putting  on  paper  bands  they  were  of  very  thin  and 
absorbent  paper,  it  is  possible  that  such  injury 
as  is  mentioned  might  occur  ;  but  if  in  all  cases 
only  grease-proof  paper  is  used,  some  three  or 
four  times  thick,  when  enwrapping  the  tree 
stems,  it  seems  impossible  that  any  grease  can 
penetrate  through  such  bandages  and  injure  the 
bark.  Until  some  other  compound  is  found  that 
does  not  quickly  harden,  eart-grease  holds  the 
field  as  a  moth  trap. — A.  D. 

Climbing:  plants  and  buildings. 

I  fail  to  agree  with  your  correspondent  John  R. 
Jackson,  whose  note  appears  in  The  Garden  for 
December  4.  In  reference  to  the  Ivy,  he  says  : 
"The  matted  root-fibres  which  so  often  cover 
walls  like  so  many  inches  of  felt  are  a  fruitful 
source  of  internal  damp  and  destruction  gene- 
rally." I  should  like  to  say  that  where  walls  are 
covered  in  this  manner,  my  opinion  is  that,  pro- 
viding the  Ivy  is  properly  attended  to,  it  is 
beneficial  rather  than  harmful.  The  chief 
attention  required,  beyond  keeping  it  within 
bounds,  is  an  annual  cutting  off  of  all  the  leaves, 
and  here  this  is  best  done  at  the  beginning  of  April. 
If  done  then  it  is  again  quickly  covered  with 
clean  young  foliage.  Given  this  attention,  the 
foliage  would  throw  off  an  enormous  quantity  of 
rain  that  would  otherwise  come  in  contact  with 
a  bare  wall  and  be  absorbed  by  it.  The  root- 
fibres  that  cling  so  tightly  to  the  wall  would,  in 
the  ordinary  course  of  nature,  quickly  absorb 
any  moisture  that  by  chance  came  in  contact 
with  the  wall.  The  leaves  would  in  the  same 
manner  give  off  this  moisture  by  their  continual 
transpiration  during  daylight.  As  is  generally 
known,  the  amount  of  water  given  off  from  the 
leaves  in  this  form  is  very  great.  Ivy,  therefore, 
keeps  the  walls  dry  and  preserves  them.  And 
this  is  not  all— it  keeps  the  inside  of  the  building 
cool  in  summer  and  warm  in  winter. — S.  Smith, 
Bir77iingham. 

A  curious  Saxifpage.— I  venture  to 

send  you  a  flower-spray  of  Saxifraga  pyrami- 
dalis,  which  is,  I  think,  showing  a  curious  form 
of  propagation.— (Mrs.)  B.  L.  Heygate,  The 
Wells,  Bromyard. 

THE   EDITOR'S   TABLE. 


WE  invite  our  readers  to  send  us 
anything  of  special  beauty  and 
interest  for  our  table,  as  by 
this  means  many  rare  and 
interesting  plants  become  more 
widely  known.  We  hope,  too, 
that  a  short  cultural  note  will  accompany  the 
flower,  so  as  to  make  a  notice  of  it  more  instruc- 
tive to  those  who  may  wish  to  grow  it.  We 
welcome  anything  from  the  garden,  whether  fruit, 
tree,  shrub,  Orchid,  or  hardy  flower,  and  they 
should  be  addressed  to  The  Editor,  20,  Tavistock 
Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. 


Fruits  of  Cydonia  japonica  from  Rinowood. 
Dr.  R.  M.  Smyth,  Broomy  Hurst,  Linford, 
Ringwood,  sends  us  a  small  branch  of  this  hand- 
some flowering  shrub,  which  is  carrying  eight 
of  its  Quince-like  fruits.  Dr.  Smyth  also  sends 
us  photographs  of  the  shrub,  which  is  bearing  a 
very  full  crop,  but  unfortunately  these  are  not  suit- 
able for  reproduction.  Our  correspondent  writes  : 
"  I  am  sending  you  a  fruiting  branch  of  Pyrus 
(Cydonia)  japonica.  I  send  you  also  two  photo- 
graphs of  the  tree.  It  generally  fruits  every  year, 
which  I  have  been  told  is  rather  uncommon  in 
this  county.  The  fruits  ripen  in  good  seasons 
and  are  sweet  smelling,  but  taste  somewhat  of 


turpentine  and  are  quite  inedible.  I  do  not  know 
whether  cooking  might  rectify  this.  There  are 
still  many  fruits  on  the  tree  in  spite  of  the  frost. 
This  specimen  has  been  planted  about  seven 
years,  and  has  to  be  cut  back  severely  every  year 
owing  to  the  limited  wall  space.  I  have  seen  Pyrus 
japonica  in  Japan  growing  in  the  Bamboo  Grass 
with  Violets  and  trailing  all  over  the  ground  ; 
the  effect  was  very  beautiful.  I  remember  seeing 
this  in  a  glade  near  Yokohama,  where  there  was  a 
little  temple  with  a  hedge  of  white  Azalea  growing 
about  4  feet  high,  giving  a  charming  effect." 

Mr.  G.  D.  Rowles  writes  :  "  I  enclose  fruit  of 
the  Japanese  Quince,  Cydonia  japonica,  for  your 
table.  The  tree  from  which  they  were  gathered 
quite  recently  is  trained  to  the  front  wall  of  a 
cottage,  position  due  west.  The  soil  in  which  it 
is  growing  can  hardly  be  termed  ideal,  as  it 
consists  of  a  stiff  clay  surmounted  by  about 
3  inches  of  ordinary  mould  ;  yet  since  its  intro- 
duction to  such  position  as  a  young  plant  four 
years  previously  it  has  flourished  amazingly.  The 
quantity  of  fruit  borne  this  season  totalled  over 
a  gallon  ;  hence  some  idea  of  the  amount  of  bloom 
produced  in  spring  can  be  imagined.  The  pro- 
duction of  fruit  is  not  unnatural,  yet,  taken 
generally,  the  setting  of  the  bloom  is  not  of 
frequent  occurrence,  and  admittedly  uncom- 
mon with  young  trees.  Fruiting,  however,  is 
not  a  recognised  qualification,  the  beauty  of  its 
flowers  and  almost  evergreen  nature  being  the 
considerations  that  render  it  so  valuable  an 
adjunct  to  the  garden.  Though  considered  by 
some  to  possess  poisonous  properties,  such 
opinion  can  hardly  be  verified,  for  although  the 
flavour  is  not  that  of  the  Pear  or  Apple,  they  are 
used  as  a  flavouring  to  tarts,  puddings,  &c.,  of 
the  last-named  fruit.  Again,  they  have  been 
known  to  be  utilised  for  placing  among  linen 
and  furs  to  prevent  moths,  and  I  am  informed 
were  set  great  store  by  for  such  purposes  by 
housewives  of  old." 

[The  Cydonia  has  fruited  remarkably  freely 
this  year,  and  we  thank  our  correspondent  for 
the  fine  specimens  he  has  sent.  ] 


Vacoinium  corymeosum  from  Camberley. 
Mr.  .1.   Crook,   Fingest,  Camberley,  sends  us 
sprays  of  the    pretty    Vacoinium    corymbosum 


YODNG  PLANTS  ON  FLOWER-STEM  OF  SAXIFRAGA 
PTRAMIDALIS. 

(virgatum),  the  wood  and  leaves  of  which  are 
coloured  a  good  crimson-scarlet.  Mr.  Crook 
informs  us  that  this  shrub  colours  particularly 
well  in  the  Camberley  district,  and  forms 
welcome  splash  of  colour  in  the  shrubbery  during 
the  late  autumn  months. 


628 


THE     GARDEN. 


I  December  25,  1909 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


entire  crop.  Periodical  inspections  will  largely 
obviate  this  danger,  and  the  losses  will  be 
reduced  to  a  minimum.  All  fruits  should  be 
individually  handled  and  carefully  placed  back 
again  into  their  positions.  In  the  ease  of  many 
amateurs  there  is  no  proper  convenience  for 
storage,  and  in  these  circumstances  examination 


FRUIT    NOTES. 

WEEDS  AND  PRUNINGS.— At 
first  glance  it  may  be  thought 
that  these  are  not  of  the 
smallest  value  to  the  fruit- 
grower ;  on  the  contrary,  they 
can  be  made  distinctly  service- 
able. Those  who  do  a  certain  amount  of  grafting 
each  spring  always  choose  the  shoots  from  which 
they  purpose  to  make  scions  at  the  time  of 
pruning,  tying  them  up  in  bundles  and  putting 
them  under  a  north  wall  or  hedge  where  they 

will  lie  dormant  until  they  are  required.     This, 

however,  is  not  the  particular  use  to  which  I  set 

out  to  call  attention  in  regard  to  the  prunings, 

but  to  the  fact  that  if  they  are  transferred  to 

the  garden  smother  they  can  easily  be  converted 

into  ash  and  returned  to  the  ground,  where  they 

will  yield  the  potassio  food  which  is  necessary  to 

satisfactory  progress.     It  is  something  the  same 

with  the  perennial  weeds.     Those  which   fini.«h 

their  life-history  in  one  season  may  be  advan- 
tageously  turned   in   when   the  land    is    forked 

over  ;  but  those  of  a  perennial  habit  ought  to  be 

burned  and  find  their  way  back  to  the  soil  in  the 

form  of  ash.    It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  garden 

smother  is  not  only  a  ready  means  of  disposing 

of  rubbish,  but  is  also  most  valuable  in  providing 

essential  food  for  the  growing  crops. 

Oi.D  Tkees. — To  grub  up  all  the  old  trees  in  a 

garden  belore  young  ones  have  been  planted  and 

hav»  had  time  to  come  into  bearing  is  an  error 

that  is  sometimes  made.     The  old 

specimens  may  not  produce  fruit  of 

the  same  spUndid  size  and  quality 

as  their  younger  relatives,  but  their 

burdens  are  better  than  none  at  all, 

and  they  should  never  be  destroyed 

until  their  successors  have  come  into 

profitable    cropping.      Instead     of 

grubbing  them,  the  grower  should 

endeavour     to    improve     them    by 

wholesale   removal    of    superfluous 

branches,  so  as  to  admit  an  abun- 
dance of  light  and  fresh  air  into  all 

parts   of   the   tree,   and   by   giving 

plentiful   supplies    of    food   to   the 

roots.     There  are  two  methods  by 

which   this  nutrient  matter  can  be 

conveyed  to  the  roots.     The  first  is 

by  repeatedly  pouring  the  strongest 

liquid  manure  on  to  the  surface  and 

giving  it  time  to  soak  well  down  ; 

and  the  second  is  to  bore  holes  with 

a   crowbar    at    intervals    of   about 

•2   feet  in    all    directions    and    re- 

peatedlj'  fill  these  with  the  strong 

liquid  ;    afterwards   the   holes   are  filled   firmly 

with  rich  compost.     Either  system  answers  well 

and  the  trees  improve  immensely. 

Pruninc. — The  very  important  work  of  pruning 
Apples,  Pears  and  other  large  fruits  in  the  garden 
should  be  pressed  forward  to  completion  as 
quickly  as  possible.  It  can,  of  course,  be  done 
during  the  early  months  of  the  year,  but  the 
weather  then  is  often  so  extremely  inclement 
that  it  becomes  practically  impossible  to  conduct 
any  outside  work  in  comfort.  It  is  imperative 
that  no  attempt  shall  be  made  to  out  trees  during 
pevere  frosts,  as  there  is  always  a  liability  of  the 
f  roet  getting  into  the  open  wound  and  doing  irre- 
parable injury  to  the  tree.  All  kinds  may  be 
safely  dealt  with  now. 

Stored  Fruits. — It  is  essential  that  fruits 
which    are    stored,    no    matter    how   admirably 

adapted  for  the  purpose  the  house  may  be,  shall  becomes  even  more  important.  Endeavour 
be  frequently  examined.  Although  the  cultivator  i  to  have  the  Apples  and  Pears  in  single  layers; 
will  take  the  utmost  care  in  handling  the  speci-  j  but  if  they  have  to  be  heaped,  care  must  be 
mens  with  a  view  to  precluding  the  possibility  of  taken  that  they  do  not  heat.  The  choicest 
the  slightest  bruise,  one  can  never  tell  when  a  Pears  ought  to  have  a  drier,  warmer  atmosphere 
particular  fruit  will  commence  to  decay,  and  than  ordinary  varieties  and  Apples,  and  must  be 
unless  this  is  at  once  removed  the  trouble  will  handled  with  even  greater  care.  The  room 
spread  to  others  in  the  immediate  neighbour-  \  should  be  dark,  of  equable  temperature  and 
hood,  and  the  result  may  be  the  loss  of  half  the  !  well  ventilated.  Fruit-gkowek. 


DELFHINIOM  MOERHEIMII.     {ihick  redticed.) 
(See  page  HJl.) 


APPLE     PRODUCTION. 

When  it  is  reported  that  English-grown  Apples 
have  been  exported  to  the  United  States,  home 
readers  are  araazed.  America  has  become,  in  its 
northern  regions,  such  a  great  Apple-producing 
country  and  sends  us,  especially  from  Canada 
and  British  Columbia,  such  immense  quantities 
of  superb  fruits,  that  it  does  seem  ditiieult  to 
understand  the  exportation  of  our  fruits  to  that 
naturally  rich  Continent.  We  may  also  well 
wonder  how  our  more  juicy  fruits  bore  the  pack- 
ing and  transit.  Certainly  it  is  unlikely  that 
home-grown  Apples  could  pass  through  the 
ordeal  of  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  in  barrels, 
as  American  Apples  come  to  us,  because  our 
fruits  are  much  more  juicy  than  are  the  Ameri- 
can. If  they  were  packed  in  paper  and  with 
wood-wool,  then  no  doubt  they  arri>'ed  in  New 
York  safely.  Certainly  it  is  just  possible  that 
with  so  many  residents  in  America  who  have 
migrated  from  England,  a  great — indefd,  almost 
a  passionate — desire  to  taste  English  Apples 
might  exist,  and  this  would  create  the  demand  ; 
and,  in  any  case,  if  such  demand  grows,  there 
is  open  to  home  growers  a  wider  field  lor 
their  industry  than  has  yet  presented  itself. 
Whatever  may  be  the  extent  of  Pears,  Plums 
and  Cherries  planted  each  year,  whether  for 
market  culture  or  for  private  purposes,  without 
doubt  the  area  of  Apples  planted  equals  all 
other  tree  fruits.  We  have  no  other  fruit  of 
the  same  value  or  usefulness,  and,  apart  from 
its  market  value  as  an  early  crop,  there  is  the 
greater  economic  value  of  the  Apple  to  the 
nation  at  large  in  its  long-keeping  properties, 
for  with  good  culture,  perlect  maturation,  and 
by  growing  the  best  keeping  varieties  of 
good  quality  and  cropping,  it  is  quite  easy  to 
have  first-class  fruits  many  months  after  their 
harvesting. 

But  the  Apple,  apart  from  its  special  keeping 
property,  has  intrinsic  value  as  a  food  product. 
No  other  fruit  possesses  more  wholesome  nutrit  ive 
flesh  or  is  suitable  for  more  variable  uses.  Still 
further,  no  hardy  fruit  is  more  easily  grown.  It  is 
rare  indeed  to  find  the  garden,  however  small  it 
may  be,  that  does  not  contain  one  or  more  Apple 
trees.  But  the  industrial  value  of  the  Apple  is 
most  clearly  demonstrated  by  the  large  exten- 
sions seen  in  planting  for  market  culture.  The 
market  grow  er  is  eminently  a  practical  roan  and 
knows  well  what  he  is  about.  He  is  under  no 
wild  hallucination  as  to  what  may  be  done  by 
adopting  French  methods  in  gardening,  neither 
does  he  regard  Apple  culture  from  the  so-called 
scientifically  experimental  point  of  view.  Apple 
culture  is  to  him,  as  to  all  practical  gardeners, 
very  simple,  and  if  he  knows  what  varieties  to 
grow,  the  form  of  trees  most  suitable  and,  not 
least,  how  profitably  to  market  his  produce,  all 
the  rest  is  simple  enough  ;  and  it  is  just  these 
things  the  market  grower  does  know,  and  no 
scientist  to-day  can  give  him  points. 

It  is  some  of  this  market  knowledge  I  wish 
to  see  more  widely  spread.  What  is  so  good 
and  so  practical  in  the  one  ease  is  good  for  the 
small  holder,  the  professional  gardener,  the 
amateur  and  the  cottager.  But  while  the 
market  grower  prefers  rather  to  grow  varieties 
that  mature  early  and  are  soon  off  his  hands,  the 
private  grower  who  wants  a  long  supply  of  fruits, 
especially  for  cooking  purposes,  must  make 
a  diverse  selection  and  plant  accordingly. 
Granted,  it  may  not  pay  the  market  grower  to 
grow  late  sorts  and  store  them  till  alter 
Christmas  ;  there  is  incidental  to  such  keeping 
some  loss  of  fruit  by  injury  and  decay,  there 
is  much  additional  cost  created  by  reason  of  store- 
room and  labour,  and  there  is  risk  of  finding,  after 
all,  that  the  ante-Christmas  prices  are  no  better 
than  the  earlier  ones.  All  this  has  to  be 
regarded  from  the  purely  economic  or  market 
point  of  view.  Those  who  grow  for  themselves 
have  no  such  concern,  yet  to  them  Apples  will 
be  the  most  profitable,  financially,  if  they  can 
be  had  over  a  long  season.  A.  D. 


Decembek  25,  iyo9. 


THE     U-AKDEN. 


629 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 


moist  and  shady  position,  they  will  retain  their 
blooma  fresh  for  fully  a  fortnight.        C.  H.  M. 


have 
habit 


GLOXINIAS  AND   THEIR    CULTUEE. 

JUDGING  by  various  reports  and  by  the 
fine  exhibits  staged  at  the  large  shows 
during  the  past  summer,  Gloxinias 
appear  to  be  advancing  in  popularity. 
Under  the  care  and  skill  of  the  culti- 
vator these  beautiful  florist's  flowers 
lately  shown  wonderful  improvement  in 
and  variety,  the  colours  now  ranging  in 
almost  every  shade  from  pale  blue,  pink  and 
mauve  to  deep  purple,  blue  and  crimson  ;  while 
the  newer  spotted  varieties,  beautifully  mottled 
and  marked  in  the  various  colours,  are  a  most 
valuable  addition  to  the  original 
type.  Where  a  warm  house 
and  good  general  conditions  are 
available.  Gloxinias  may  be 
easily  sown  and  flowered  the 
same  season.  From  seed  sown 
in  January  last  I  had,  about 
the  middle  of  July,  plants  in 
.5 -inch  pots  measuring  nearly 
2  feet  across  with  from  twelve  to 
twenty  good  blooms. 

The  seed,  which  should  be 
obtained  from  a  reliable  source, 
is  best  sown  early  in  January  in 
deep  pans,  using  a  fine,  sandy 
soil  (not  covering  the  seed),  and 
placed  in  a  close  frame  of  about 
65°  to  70°  night  heat.  Excessive 
moisture  must  not  be  allowed 
to  collect  round  the  seeds  while 
germinating,  as  Gloxinias, 
especially  in  the  young  stages, 
are  quickly  aflected  by  damp. 
When  germinated,  the  seedlings 
should  be  removed  from  the 
frame  and  pricked  off  singly 
into  pans  or  boxes,  growing 
I  hem  on  in  a  temperature  of 
not  less  than  60°  night  heat. 
The  soil  "used  should  be  fine 
peat,  leaf-soil  and  sand.  When 
large  enough,  pot  off  into  small 
pots  and  ultimately  into  the 
flowering  pots  (5-inch  or  6-inch), 
using  a  good  mixture  of  leaf-soil, 
peat,  yellow  loam  and  sand  with 
a  little  good  manure  and  char- 
coal. The  soil  should  be  as 
rough  and  fibrous  as  possible. 
Watering  must  always  be 
attended  to  with  the  greatest 
care,  and  the  atmosphere  kept 
moist  by  syringing  and  damping 
and  free  from  draughts  or  checks 
of  any  kind.  The  plants  re- 
quire all  the  light  possible,  but 
must  be  shaded  from  the  bright 
sun.  It  is  advisable  to  fumigate 
or  spray  with  an  insecticide  at 
intervals  as  a  preventive  of 
thrip,  which  is  sometimes  very 
troublesome.  Feeding  is  not 
necessary  the  first  season,  but 
a  little  weak  liquid  manure  will  be  found 
beneficial  when  the  blooms  begin  to  appear. 

The  tubers  for  spring  flowering  should  be 
gently  started  about  the  middle  of  December, 
laying  them  in  shallow  boxes,  barely  covering 
them  with  light  soil  or  Cocoanut  fibre.  It  is 
better  to  allow  them  to  start  slowly  without 
forcing,  as  this  tends  to  weaken  the  young 
growths.  Pot  them  off  and  grow  on  as  before 
until  the  plants  are  well  developed  and  showing 
buds,  when  a  weak  liquid  manure  may  be 
applied,  gradually  increasing  until  the  plants  are 
in  flower.  I  use  Wellson's  Plant  Food,  which 
seems  to  suit  Gloxinias  admirably.  It  the  plants 
are  required  for  exhibition,  they  should  be 
gradually  hardened  off  by  admitting  air,  but  not 
too  suddenly.     If  placed  on  the  floor  in  a  cool. 


AN    INTERESTING    WINTER- 
FLOWERING   GREENHOUSE   PLANT. 

(Plectranthus  crassus.  ) 
The  opening  up  within  recent  years  of  British 
Gdntral  Africa  has  been  the  means  of  many  new 
plants  being  introduoed  to  our  gardens.  Among 
them  the  Natural  Order  Labiatfe  is  strongly 
represented,  one  member  of  this  family,  Coleua 
thyrsoideus,  first  sent  here  about  a  dozen  years    requirements. 

ago,  having  already  attained  a  large  amount  of    ■^■'^ •- 

popularity,  as  its  spikes  ot  bright  cobalt  blue 
blossoms  are  freely  borne  during  the  winter 
months. 


succession    for    a    considerable    period.      Their 
colour  is  a  kind  of  lavender  blue. 

Cuttings  of  this  Plectranthus  root  very  readily, 
but,  as  already  stated,  it  does  not  branch  freely. 
For  this  reason  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to  select 
the  strongest  shoots  as  cuttings,  and  instead  of 
stopping   them,    allow  them    to    grow    on    and 
flower.      The  result  of    this  is  long  spikes  of 
blossoms,  and  the  effect  such  as  may  be  seen  in 
the  accompanying  illustration.     Good  examples 
may  be  flowered  in  pots  o  inches  in  diameter. 
Ordinary  potting   compost   readily   fulfils   their 
This     Plectranthus    flowers    at 
different  seasons  of  the  year,  though  its  blossoms 
are,  as  a  rule,  most  appreciated  during  the  depth 
of  winter,  at  which  time  it  may  be  had  in  bloom. 
Like  most  of  the  Central  African  plants,  it  needs 
for     its     successful     culture     a 
structure  somewhat  warmer  than 
an     ordinary     greenhouse.       At 
Kew  it  does   well   in   the  inter- 
mediate    compartment     of     the 
T     range      in     company     with 
Begonias,       Eranthemums     and 
plants  of  that  class.  H.  P. 


CLEANING     GREEN 
HOUSE    GLASS. 

At  this  season,  especially  in  the 
vicinity  of  large  towns,  there  is 
no  work  connected  with  the 
greenhouse  that  repays  doing 
better  than  giving  the  glass  a 
good  washing.  In  most  gardens 
the  interior  of  greenhouses  is 
usually  cleaned  thoroughly  at 
this  time  and  the  outside 
neglected.  This  is  a  great  mis- 
take. Fogs,  which  are  prevalent 
now,  always  leave  a  thick  deposit 
of  soot  and  other  foreign  matter 
on  the  glass,  which  effectually 
shuts  out  a  considerable  amount 
of  light,  much  to  the  disad- 
vantage of  the  plants. 


(  Conlii 

T 


A   LITTLE-KNOWN   (IREENHOUSE   I'LANT,   PLECTRANTHUS   CRASSUS. 


This  was  followed  by  two  other  species, 
ColeuB  shirensis  and  C.  Mahonii,  both  good 
flowering  plants ;  but,  wanting  the  bright  colour 
of  Coleus  thyrsoideus,  they  are  never  likely  to 
be  grown  to  the  same  extent  as  this.  Plec- 
tranthus crassus,  the  plant  herewith  illustrated, 
differs  only  in  a  slight  degree  from  Coleus,  and 
it  is  a  pretty,  free-flowering  and  easily  cultivated 
plant.  This  Plectranthus  was  introduced  to 
Kew  from  British  Central  Africa  four  or  five 
years  ago,  and  numerous  flowering  examples  may 
often  be  seen  in  the  gardens.  It  forms  a  sturdy- 
growing  plant,  which  branches  sparingly,  the 
stout  erect  stems  being  clothed  with  pale  green 
ovate  leaves.  The  flowers,  borne  in  narrow 
terminal  spikes,  are  arranged  in  whorls,  which 
develop  one  after  the  other  and  thus  maintain  a 


ROSE    GARDEN. 

NOTES  ON  NEWER  ROSES. 
XIII. — The  Wiohuraianas. 
fContirmed  from  page  603.  J 
HE  deserving  popularity 
of  this  comparatively 
new  class  has  induced 
Rose  hybridists  all  the 
world  over  to  try 
and  improve  it,  with 
the  result  that  many  new 
varieties  are  sent  out  year  by 
year,  some  of  them  (as  might 
be  expected  when  continents  so 
far  apart  as  Australia,  Europe 
and  America  are  their  birth-  . 
place)  hardly  improvements  on 
varieties  already  in  cultivation. 
I  have  tried  what  I  consider 
the  best  of  them  in  my  own 
garden  (where  I  have  a 
fairly  representative  collection  of  nearly  forty 
different  varieties),  and  of  those  of  recent  intro- 
duction I  have  jpicked  out  the  following  six 
varieties,  all  of  them  good  and  which  can  be 
thoroughly  recommended  from  one  point  of  view 
or  another.  I  do  not  say  they  are  the  best  six 
of  recent  introduction,  but  they  come  very  near 
it.  I  have  confined  my  selection  to  varieties 
intro'Juced  during  the  last  three  years,  namely, 
1906,  1907  and  1908. 

White  Dorothy  (B.  R.  Cant  and  Sons  and 
Paul  and  Son,  1908). — This  sport  was  a  case 
of  the  expected  happening.  Dorothy  Perkins 
was  bound  sooner  or  later  to  give  us  a  white 
sport,  and  it  appears  to  have  sported  in  a  good 
many  places.  Some  varieties  are  simply  paler  in 
colour,  but  that  before  us  can  fairly  be  called 


630 


THE     GARDEN. 


[December  25,  1909. 


white,  and  as  such  it  is  certainly  desirable  and 
welcome  and  will  become  very  popular.  There 
is  a  very  slight  difiference  between  the  two  sports 
that  were  put  on  the  market  simultaneously  by 
the  two  firms  previously  mentioned,  but  it  is 
only  discoverable  in  the  bud  stage  ;  with  the 
exception  of  colour,  the  sport  is  identical  with 
its  parent  Dorothy  Perkins,  and  is  as  free  flower- 
ing and  as  strong  a  grower,  in  both  of  which 
respects  it  is  an  improvement  on  Sohneeball, 
which  I  believe  was  introduced  into  commerce  as 
a  White  Porothy  Perkins.  While  I  am  talking  of 
1  )orothy  Perkins  I  will  mention  two  other  sports 
that  are  both  excellent  in  their  way. 

Dorothy  Denniaon  (A.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1908). 
This  sported  first  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Dennison, 
a  well-known  and  keen  exhibitor  of  the  show 
Rose.  I  saw  it  first  at  Newtownards  last  year, 
and  was  much  taken  with  its  beautiful  delicate 
colour— a  pale  yet  bright  shell  pink,  shading  off 
until  the  base  of  the  petals  reach  creamy  white. 
It  takes  after  its  well-known  parent  in  all  other 
respects  and  is  said  to  have  even  a  larger  truss, 
and  it  shares  with  the  next-mentioned  in  my 
list  the  distinction  of  being  one  of  the  two  most 
beautiful  of  all  the  Dorothy  Perkins  sports  of  a 
shell  pink  colour.  I  cannot  make  up  my  mind  as 
to  which  I  prefer — for  table  decoration  I  prefer 
Dorothy  Dennison  ;  outdoors,  I  think  I  should 
vote  for 

Lady  Godiva  (Paul  and  Son,  1908).— This  is  a 
particularly  delicate  colour,  a  soft,  pale  flesh  pink, 
a  description  that  in  no  way  conveys  its  charm. 
I  do  not  know  its  history — whether  it  arose  in  the 
nurseries  of  this  well-known  firm  or  whether  they 
acquired  it — but  there  is  no  doubt  it  is  a  very 
beautiful  sport  that  deserved  propagation,  and 
will,  when  better  known,  receive  due  recognition 
and  be  extensively  planted. 

Francois  Juranvilk  (Barbier,  190(5). — We  owe 
many  good  wichuraianas  to  this  firm,  and  this  is 
one  of  the  best  they  have  sent  out.  The  flowers 
are  rather  large  for  the  class,  slightly  bigger  than 
their  well-known  Gardenia ;  colour  deep,  but 
bright  salmon  pink,  shading  ofi'  to  yellow  at  the 
base  of  the  petals  ;  produced  in  small  clusters  of 
three,  often  coming  singly,  sweet  scented,  and 
one  of  the  early-flowering  section.  My  plant  of 
it  was  one  of  the  brightest  things  in  the  garden 
when  in  flower,  and  attracted  a  lot  of  admiration ; 
the  foliage  and  habit  are  good. 

Evangeline  (M.  H.  Walsh,  1907).— This  is 
well  worth  growing  if  only  for  its  scent,  which  is 
very  powerful,  especially  in  the  early  morning. 
It  is  a  single  flower  that  lasts  well  on  the  plant, 
and  is  borne  in  large,  well-shaped  clusters 
colour  bright  pink,  with  a  fairly  large  white 
eye.  It  is  a  particularly  strong  grower,  and  ! 
have  my  own  doubts  whether  it  is  a  wichuraiaiia 
at  all,  but  it  has  been  so  sent  out.  It  is  a  great 
rambler,  and  a  really  beautiful  Rose  when  trained 
up  a  tree  or  over  a  pergola,  but  it  is  too  rampant 
for  a  pillar.  My  plant  reached  me  labelled 
Hiawatha.  Personally,  I  do  not  think  I  was  the 
loser  ;  at  any  rate,  it  is,  to  my  way  of  thinking, 
a  good  deal  better  than  Paradise,  which  was 
seiit  out  by  the  same  raiser  at  the  same  time 
and  has  been  far  more  boomed  in  the  Press, 
possibly  on  account  of  its  curiously  reflexed 
petals,  which  render  the  plant  far  less  valuable 
from  the  decorative  point  of  view.  My  sixth 
wichuraiana  has  caused  me  some  trouble  to 
select  —there  are  so  many  ;  but  I  have  decided  in 
favour  of 

Joae23h  Lamy  (Barbier,  1906). — A  beautiful  and 
distinct  colour  that  recalls  that  old  Rose  Marie 
Lavalley,  which  seems  to  be  in  danger  of  being 
lost  to  cultivation,  beautiful  though  it  is. 
•loseph  Lamy  is  the  result  of  a  cross  with 
Laurette  Messimy,  but  there  is  not  much  trace 
of  that  variety  in  its  flowers,  which  are  semi- 
double,  fairly  large  and  of  a  white  ground  colour, 
suffused  pink,  very  effective  and  distinct,  and 
produced  freely  on  long  footstalks.  It  is  not 
such  a  strong  grower  as  some  of  the  varieties, 
and  should  make  a  good  pillar- 

Purley.  Hbrbekt  E.  Molyneux. 


JOHN    GERARD. 

His  Herbal. 


II. 


WITHOUT    the     Herbal,     Gray's 
words    might    have    been   de- 
scriptive of  Gerard, 
Full  many  a  flower  is  born  to  blush 
unseen 
And  waste  its  sweetness  on  the 
desert  air. 
To-day  he  is  probably  the  best-known  and  most 
frequently  quoted  Old  English  writer  on  botany 
and  gardening. 


geejc 


Britannica  Conch  n  ttnatiferst. 
The  brccdc  of  Bamaklcs. 


"  l.ARNACLE   tiEESE,"   FROM    GERARD'S   HERBAL 

From  his  own  times,  when  the  Laureate, 
Michael  Drayton,  thus  refers  to  him  in  his  "  Poly- 
olbion"  (1613),  speaking  of  helpful  herbs. 

Nor  skilful  Gerard  yet  shall  ever  iind  them  all, 

down  to  our  own  days,  when  we  so  often  meet 
his  name  in  gardening  papers  and  books,  he  has 
occupied  a  position  of  his  own. 

That  which  has  made  him  so  famous  must 
needs  be  of  interest. 

(a)  Its  Contents. 
The  volume  is  a  thick  folio  with  1,392  pages  of 
matter  dealing  with  plants,  prefaced  by  20  of 
introduction  and  no  less  than  71  of  indexes.  It 
is  copiously  illustrated,  and,  in  addition  to 
upwards  of  1,800  woodcuts,  has  an  interesting 
frontispiece  and  a  half-length  portrait  of  the 
author  facing  page  1.  As  it  is  an  attempt  to 
enumerate  and  classify  the  whole  of  the  then 
known    vegetable   kingdom,    it   ia   divided    into 


three  main  divisions  or  books,  which  are  each  of 
them  sub-divided  into  chapters  and  sections. 

All  the  old  botanists  and  herbalists  divided 
plants  in  an  arbitrary  and  whimsical  way.  In 
copying  Lobel,  Gerard  adopted  the  best  possible 
division.  How  unlike  it  was  to  our  modern 
system  may  be  seen  from  a  glance  at  the  titles  of 
the  books:  "(1)  The  first  booke  hath  Grasses, 
Rushes,  Corn,  Flags,  Bulbose  or  Onion-rooted 
plants ;  (2)  The  second,  all  sorts  of  herbes  for 
meat,  medicine  or  sweete  smelling  use  ;  (3)  The 
third,  hath  trees,  shrubs,  bushes,  fruit-bearing 
plants.  Rosins,  Gums,  Roses,  Heath,  Mosses, 
Mushrooms,  Corall  and  their  several  kindes." 
It  made  strange  bedfellows.  To  compare  the 
Herbal  with  a  modern  work,  the  eight  hundred 
chapters  into  which  the  books  are  divided  may 
be  considered  as  so  many  genera,  each  containing 
so  many  species,  which  are  all  fully  treated,  and 
their  general  description,  name,  habitats,  time  of 
flowering  and  medicinal  uses  given. 

(t)  Its  Compilation. 

How  was  such  a  vast  work  produced  ?  In  two 
ways.  First,  by  the  author's  recording  his  own 
personal  experience  and  knowledge  of  plants  ; 
and,  secondly,  by  his  "perusing  divers  Herbals 
set  foorth  in  other  languages,"  and  setting  down 
the  results  of  his  researches. 

A  particularly  famous  book  of  the  sixteenth 
century  was  the  "  Stirpium  Historic  Pemptades 
sex  "  of  Rembert  Dodoens,  the  Leyden  Professor. 
This  was  published  in  1583  and  represented  thirty 
years  of  hard  work.  A  London  publisher  who 
recognised  its  value,  no  doubt  with  an  eye  to 
business,  commissioned  a  certain  Dr.  Priest, 
"  one  of  our  London  college,'  to  translate  it  into 
English.  The  translator,  however,  died  as  soon 
as  his  task  was  finished,  and  before  it  could  be 
published.  What  happened  then  is  not  very 
clear.  According  to  Gerard,  the  translation 
"  perished "  ;  but  according  to  Johnson,  the 
editor  of  the  second  edition  of  the  Herbal,  he 
made  use  of  it,  and  is  blamed  for  disguising  the 
fact.  "  I  cannot  commend  my  author  for 
endeavouring  to  hide  this  thing  from  us."  Some- 
times I  wonder  if  this  statement  of  Johnson's  is 
correct.  If  he  could  make  a  mistake  in  recording 
the  year  of  Gerard's  death,  he  might  also  be 
wrong  in  saying  that  Gerard  used  Priest's  trans- 
lation. Also,  when  a  point  is  made  of  his  being 
but  a  poor  Latin  scholar,  it  is  well  to  remember 
that  he  never  disguised  the  fact  himself,  and  that 
he  knew  enough  to  write  prefaces  and  dedications 
to  both  editions  of  the  catalogue  of  plants  in  his 
garden. 

However  this  may  be,  the  result  of  Gerard's 
labours  was  an  epoch-making  work  by  no  means 
free  from  error,  but  eminently  serviceable,  as  it 
supplied  a  much-felt  want.  No  small  part  of  its 
popularity  was  the  inclusion  of  so  many  "outs." 
Probably  only  sixteen  to  twenty-five  were 
original,  the  rest  being  obtained  by  the  publisher, 
John  Norton,  from  Frankfort,  being  the  same 
blocks  that  had  been  used  in  the  Dutch  Herbal 
of  Taberniemontanus. 

(c)  Its  Fame. 

The  quotation  from  the  poet  Drayton  illus- 
trates the  position  the  work  took  in  the  years 
immediately  succeeding  its  publication  (1597). 
It  was  well  timed.  It  was  in  the  mother  tongue. 
It  included  all  plants  then  known.  It  was  more 
profusely  illustrated  by  far  than  any  Herbjl 
ever  had  been.  All  these  things  helped  to  secure 
for  it  the  prominent  place  in  garden  literature 
which  to  the  present  time  it  has  undoubtedly 
retained. 

The  Herbal  was  born  under  a  lucky  planet. 
Just  when  it  was  getting  a  little  out  of  date. 
Thomas  Johnson,  a  citizen  and  apothecary  ot 
London,  brought  out  a  second  edition  (1633). 
He  called  it  a  very  much  enlarged  and  amended 
edition,  and  so  it  was.  He  had  culled  the  good 
things  from  several  newly  published  works  ;  he 
had  corrected  a  large  number  of  mistakes  and 
enriched  it  with  the  descriptions  of  800  new 
plants  and  about  90O  more  woodcuts ;    he  had 


December  25,  1909. 


THE    GAllDEN. 


631 


incorporated  his  own  practical  knowledge ;  in 
fact,  it  was  all  but  a  new  book  when  it  left 
Johnson's  hands. 

Thus  it  became  more  useful  than  ever  and  more 
famous  than  ever.  Let  us  remember  Johnson 
when  we  think  of  Gerard.  It  is  his  edition  which 
has  been  the  one  more  generally  used  since  it 
was  given  to  an  expectant  world.  As  Boswell 
increased  the  fame  of  the  great  Doctor,  so  has 
this  Thomas  Johnson  increased  that  of  Gerard. 

[d)  Its  Interest. 

The  interest  of  the  Herbal  to-day  is  almost 
wholly  historical.  It  is  the  watershed  of  garden- 
ing and  botany  and  medicine  and  husbandry.  It 
marks  a  transition  period  in  garden  literature. 
Although  primarily  intended  as  a  book  of  simples, 
the  purely  decorative  side  is  not  ignored.  Tulips 
occupy  the  whole  of  Chapter  77,  which  he  ends 
by  say'ng  no  ancient  or  later  writer  had  ever 
ascribed  any  virtue  to  them,  but  they  are 
esteemed  for  the  beauty  of  their  flowers.  In 
another  direction  we  are  taken  back  to  the 
medical  practices  of  bygone  days,  when  there 
were  so  many  remedies  known  to  the  learned 
that  one  wonders  why  anybody  ever  was  ill ; 
when  in  practical  life  the  knowledge  of  the  pro- 
perties of  a  few  simple  herbs  was  part  of  the 
stock-in-trade  of  every  poor  man's  wife,  and  no 
garden,  great  or  small,  was  complete  without  a 
certain  number  being  included  in  it,  such  as  Sage, 
Rue,  Fennel,  Tansy  and  the  like. 
He  tbat  eats  Sage  in  May 
Shall  live  for  aye. 

Again  its  contents  tell  the  tale  of  the  passing 
of  authority  as  authority.  The  "  I  saw  it  in  the 
paper  "  of  to-day  had  its  counterpart  in  "as  saith 
Dioscorides,"  or  "  as  saith  Columella,"  for  what 
had  come  down  from  them  must  not  be  ques- 
tioned. The  old  blind  faith  in  antiquity  and 
tradition  was  giving  way  as  new  facts  about 
Nature  came  to  light,  and  people  began  to  think 
more  for  themselves.  The  curious  belief  that 
there  were  trees  "  whereon  do  grow  certain 
shells "  which  in  time  became  Barnacle  Geese 
seems  to  have  been  accepted  by  Gerard  in 
perfect  faith,  "For  the  truth  whereof  if  any 
doubt,  may  it  please  them  to  repair  to  me 
and  I  shall  satisfie  them  by  the  testimony 
of  good  witnesses."  Johnson,  although  he 
includes  "  The  Barnacles  "  (but  with  a  different 
woodcut),  says  they  have  another  "  originall, 
and  that  by  egges  as  other  birds  have."  It  was 
the  writing  on  the  wall.  f  ,-,  i 

The  doctrine  of  plant  signatures  is  one  of  those 
pleasant  by-paths  which  Gerard  invites  us  to 
follow.  "  The  Mercy  of  God,"  said  William 
Coles  in  his  "Art  of  Simpling  "  (1656),  "  has  given 
plants  particular  signatures  whereby  a  man  may 
read  even  in  legible  characters  the  use  of  them." 
P.  Liureraberg's  note  about  Garlic  in  his  "  Appa- 
ratus Plantarum  "  is  a  good  illustration.  "The 
tunic  of  Garlic  is  ruddy,  it  expels  blood.  It  has 
a  hollow  stalk,  and  helps  the  affections  of  the 
windpipe."  An  example  from  our  author  may 
be  found  under  Polygonatum  (Solomon's  Seal). 
When  the  root  is  out  through,  marks  something 
like  two  equilateral  triangles  intersecting  each 
other  will  be  found.  To  the  old  herbalists  these 
were  an  indication  of  the  plant's  uses.  Hence  it 
was  said  to  seal  wounds  and  knit  broken  bones. 
"  That  which  might  be  written  of  this  herbe,  as 
touching  the  knitting  of  bones  .  .  .  woulde 
seeme  unto  some  incredible,  but  common  experi- 
ence teacheth,  that  in  the  whole  worlde  there  is 
not  to  be  found  another  herbe  comparable  to  it 
for  the  purposes  aforesaid"  (Gerard,  1597  edition, 
page  759). 

The  last  item  of  interest  that  I  must  touch  upon 
is  the  sidelights  which  are  thrown  on  the  manners, 
customs  and  ways  of  Elizibethan  England.  In 
some  cases  they  disclose  differences,  as  the  fre- 
quent references  to  the  bites  and  stings  of  animals 
and  creeping  things  reveal  a  much  wilder  country 
than  it  is  to-day  ;  in  others  they  show  that  in 
some  ways  human  nature  was  then  much  the 
same  as  it  is  now.      Golden-rod  was  imported 


from  Germany  and  sold  at  2s.  6d.  an  ounce. 
When  someone  found  itgrowiiii:  at  Hampstead, 
it  became  valueless  and  could  liuc  be  given  away, 
' '  which  plainly  setteth  forth  our  inconstancie 
and  sudden  mutabilitie  esteeming  no  longer  of 
anything,  how  pretious  soever  it  be,  than  whilst 
it  is  strange  and  rare,"  thus  verifying  an  Old 
English  proverb,  "  Far  feteht,  and  deare  bought 
is  best  for  ladies. "  Joseph  Jacob. 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN. 


PREPAKING    GROUND    FOR  ROCK 

GARDEN. 

[In  Reply  to  O.  Clarke.] 

YOU  had  better  excavate  the  soil  over 
the  entire  area,  and  remove  the  flints 
and  stones  by  screening  or  otherwise, 
as  may  appear  best.  If  possible,  the 
excavated  area  should  be  made  wider 
than  the  basal  area  of  the  intended 
erection,  so  as  to  secure  effective  drainage  around. 
If  you  make  the  excavation  of  a  depth  of  2  feet. 


loving  plants,  the  portion  to  be  first  pegged  out 
and  not  excavated  for  drainage  purposes  like  the 
remainder.  Subsequently  a  minor  excavation 
should  be  made  and  soil  introduced  suitable  for 
Iris  Ksempferi  and  other  plants.  Just  what 
might  be  done  depends  very  much  upon  your 
own  desires  and  upon  ways  and  means,  and  with 
the  assistance  of  a  specialist  in  such  matters  (one 
who  could  view  the  situation)  a  very  interesting 
garden  may  be  made.  The  idea  of  a  rough,  paved 
path  meandering  through  the  garden  is  good, 
but  it  should  be  of  a  very  informal  character 
and  planted  with  miniature  alpines.  You 
say  nothing  of  the  rock  you  intend  using,  and 
this  also  is  important. 


A  BORDER  OF  WALLFLOWERS  AND 

FORGET-ME-NOTS. 
One  of  the  prettiest  effects  to  be  found  in  gardens 
in  spring  is  that  produced  by  a  judicious  com- 
bination of  Wallflowers  and  Forget-me-nots. 
The  accompanying  illustration  depicts  a  border 
planted  thus.  Frequently  Wallflowers  are 
planted  rather  thinly  and  the  Forget-me-nots 
dotted  about  in   an  irregular  maimer  between 


A   BORDER  OF   WALLFLOWERS  EDGED  WITH  FORO  ET-ME-NOTS. 


place  aside  the  soil,  and  introduce  brick-bats, 
rough  clinkers  or  similar  material  to  a  depth  of 
not  less  than  9  inches,  a  good  drainage  will  be 
secured.  If  you  are  restricted  for  working  room, 
divide  the  ground  lengthwise  and  treat  the  sec- 
tions separately  ;  or,  by  taking  a  5  feet  wide 
section  at  one  end  of  the  ground,  allowing 
this  to  extend  to  the  full  width  at  your 
disposal,  and  removing  the  soil  to  the  other 
extreme  of  the  ground,  the  whole  area  could  be 
treated  thus  in  six  equal  sections.  The  first  way 
would  be  the  moat  economical  and  would  save 
the  removal  of  much  soil.  In  this  way  the  sec- 
tions could  be  drained  as  the  work  proceeded, 
while  the  first  removed  soil  would  fill  up  the  last 
opened  trench.  The  principle  is  that  of  trench- 
ing land  on  a  large  scale. 

For  many  alpine  and  roek  plants  the  clayey 
loam  should  be  replaced  by  soil  of  a  lighter 
nature,  or  much  sand  should  be  introduced.  The 
original  soil  would  do  quite  well  to  give  increased 
height  to  the  erection,  but  too  great  a  height  is 
not  desirable  on  so  small  a  scale.  So  far  as  its 
shape  is  concerned,  you  might  reserve  on  the 
western   side  a  portion  for  peat  and   moisture 


them  ;  but  in  the  border  illustrated  the  Forget- 
me-nots  are  used  as  an  edging  to  the  Wallflowers. 
Although  the  planting  is  best  done  in  autumn,  it 
may  be  successfully  performed  in  early  spring — 
say,  the  end  of  February — if  the  weather  is 
open  and  the  soil  in  suitable  condition.  It  is 
beat  to  use  Wallflowers  of  one  colour  only  in 
each  bed  or  border  when  combined  with  Forget- 
me-nots. 


DELPHINIUM  MOERHEIMIL 
This  new  Delphinium  is  a  charming  white- 
flowered  variety  of  considerable  merit.  As  will 
be  seen  by  the  much-reduced  illustration  on 
page  628,  the  flowers  are  by  no  means  crowded, 
and  the  stem  is  of  a  good  branching  character. 
It  is  said  to  be  the  result  of  crossing  D.  Bella- 
donna with  D.  chinense  album,  and  possesses  the 
continuous-flowering  character  of  the  first-named 
parent.  When  shown  by  Messrs.  William 
Cutbush  and  Sons  of  Highgate  before  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  on  June  22  last,  it  received 
a  considerable  amount  of  attention  and  was 
deservedly  granted  an  award  of  merit. 


632 


THE     GARDEN. 


[December  25,  1909. 


GARDENING    FOR     BEGINNERS. 


GARDEN    WOKK    WEEK    BY    WEEK. 

FLOWER  GARDEN. —Whenever  the 
weather  is  open,  all  gravel  walks  and 
also  lawns  should  be  given  a  good 
rolling,  as  the  recent  frosts  will  have 
made  the  surface  of  both  rather  loose. 
Before  rolling  the  lawn  see  that  all 
worm-easts  are  distributed  by  means  of  a  vigorous 
sweeping  with  a  lawn  broom  or  besom.  There 
is  nothing  like  a  good  bout  of  rolling  or  digging 
for  working  off  that  heavy  feeling  usually  expe- 
rienced after  eating  the  Christmas  pudding  and 
turkey,  and  if  the  children  are  given  an  oppor- 
tunity of  indulging  in  rolling  the  grass,  they  will 
enjoy  it  and  derive  much  benefit  thereby. 
Should  falls  of  snow  be  e,xperienced,  the  work 
of  clearing  paths  will  have  to  be  attended  to  and 
care  should  be  taken  that  large  quantities  of  it 
are  not  thrown  on  to  soft  plants  that  would  most 
likely  be  injured  by  the  excessive  weight  placed 
upon  them  suddenly. 

Bortse  Decoration. — This  week  will  see  a  vast 
amount  of  decoration  done  indoors,  and  there  are 
a  few  points  that  should  not  be  lost  sight  of  in 
carrying  out  the  work.  It  is  essential,  first  of 
all,  to  decide  on  some  definite  scheme,  and  subse- 
quently adhere  to  this  as  closely  as  possible.  It 
should  also  be  remembered  that  a  room  may  look 
very  nice  indeed  by  daylight  and  be  a  partial 
or  total  failure  when  artificially  illuminated,  or 
vice  versd  :  hence  it  is  necessary  to  know  under 
what  conditions  it  is  likely  to  be  most  seen.  If 
to  be  used  by  daylight  only,  matters  are  f  impli- 
fied,  as  most  foliage  and  flowers  look  well  thus  ; 
bat  if  required  to  look  at  its  best  at  night,  the 
work  of  decoration  should  be  carried  out  by 
artificial  light.  It  is  well  to  remember  that 
flowers  or  foliage  of  violet,  mauve,  maroon,  very 
deep  crimson  and  blue  tints  do  not  show  up  well 
by  night,  and  these  should,  where  possible,  be 
avoided.  Bright  scarlet,  pink,  salmon,  white 
and  terra-ootta  are  the  best  to  use  for  artificial 
illuminations.  Any  ribbons,  papers,  coloured  bast 
or  other  inflammable  materials  used  must  be  kept 
at  a  safe  distance  from  gas  or  other  burners.  In 
arranging  pot  plants,  try,  as  far  as  possible,  to 
keep  the  more  tender  ones  in  the  warmest  parts 
of  the  house,  and  use  only  very  hardy  ones  for 
draughty  corridors  and  other  cold  places. 

Oreenhouse  and  Frames. — Where  Perpetual- 
flowering  Carnations  were  lifted  from  the  open, 
potted   up   and    placed    in    the    greenhouse    in 


-A   TYPICAL  PLANT   OF    THE    SCARLET    AVENS 
(OBDM)   S0ITABLE  FOR   DIVISION. 


October,  they  will  by  now  be  quite  at  home  in 
their  new  quarters,  and  should  be  giving  us 
flowers  for  cutting.  Any  dead  or  decaying 
leaves  should  be  promptly  removed  and  the 
plants  given  the  lightest  possible  position, 
with  good  ventilation  whenever  the  outside 
temperature  will  allow  this  to  be  done.  A 
temperature  of  48°  Fahr.  will  suit  them 
admirably,  although  on  sunnydays  it  may  be 
allowed  to  rise  to  .55"  Fahr.  Under  these 
conditions  water  is  not  likely  to  be  needed  very 
frequently,  and  due  care  must  be  exercised  in 
this  respect.  Should  the  dreaded  rust  disease 
appear  on  the  leaves,  promptly  spray  the  plants 
with  a  mixture  of  methylated  spirit  and  water, 
one  part  (by  measure)  of  the  former  to  one 
hundred  parts  of  the  latter. 

Trees  and  Shrubs. — Heavy  falls  of  snow  may 
be  experienced  any  time  now,  and  in  the  event 
of  this  occurring  it  should  be  remembered  that 
it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  it  from  trees 
and  shrubs  of  an  evergreen  character,  otherwise 
the  weight  of  the  snow  will  be  liable  to  break 
many  of  the  branches  and  thus  irretiievably  spoil 
the  symmetry  of  the  specimens.  Generally,  a 
careful  shaking  of  the  branches  will  suffice  ;  but 
where  this  fails  to  dislodge  the  snow,  recourse 
must  be  had  to  a  stiff  besom,  using  this  with 
care  so  as  to  avoid  injuring  the  buds. 

Lessons  of  the  Year.  — With  the  close  of  a  year 
every  wise  gardener  will  turn  up  his  or  her  diaty 
or  other  gardening  notes  and  take  account  of  the 
failures  and  successes  which  have  been  ex- 
perienced during  the  year  that  is  about  to 
pass  into  history.  I  fear  that  more  failures 
than  successes  have  been  recorded  during  1909, 
a  year  that  will  live  long  in  our  memories 
on  account  of  the  cold,  sunless  summer  ;  but  the 
successes  will  be  all  the  more  pleasing.  But  the 
gardener  is  a  philosophical  mortal  and  is  always 
hoping  for  better  times.  With  all  the  failures,  I 
am  sure  all  readers  of  The  Garden  will  have 
derived  much  pleasure  from  their  gardens,  be 
they  large  or  small,  and  my  wish,  on  the  eve  of 
a  new  year,  is,  *' Success  to  every  reader,  and 
especially  to  those  who  will  be  beginners  in 
gardening  during  1910."  H. 


INCREASING  THE  GEUMS  AND  SPIR.EAS 
BY  DIVISION. 

We  have  every  reason  to  be  grateful  to  those 
excellent  horticulturists  who,  in  the  past, 
strenuously  and  persistently  worked  to  create  an 
interest  in  hardy  flowers.  It  is  not  a  great  many 
years  since  the  practice  of  planting  tender  green- 
house subjects  in  the  outdoor  garden  was  in 
vogue,  and  beds  and  borders  of  most  British 
gardens  were  largely  devoid  of  beauty,  except 
throughout  our  summer  season.  All  this  is  now 
changed.  By  observing  a  wise  system  of  planting 
and  a  careful  discrimination  of  subjects,  the  hardy 
border  may  be  made  interesting  at  all  seasons, 
and  during  fully  seven  or  eight  months  of  the  year 
this  part  of  the  garden  may  be  regarded  as  a 
"  thing  of  beauty." 

Readers  who  are  beginners  in  the  cultivation 
of  hardy  flowers  should  remember  that  in 
planting  a  border  of  hardy  perennials  the  first 
expense  is  practically  the  only  one.  The  smallest 
pieces  will,  in  the  course  of  a  few  seasons, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  develop  into 
excellent  clumps,  and  if  these  be  divided  from 
time  to  time,  as  they  become  unduly  large 
and  unwieldy,  growers  may  by  these  means 
increase  and  multiply  their  original  stock  most 
satisfactorily. 


I  should  be  disposed  to  eliminate  from  my  list 
all  coirse-growing  and  over-vigorous  hardy 
perennials.  These  are  not  suited  to  the  smaller 
borders  of  most  gardens  ;  they  serve  the  purpose 
of  filling  up  and  working  in  with  other  subjects 
in  a  large  and  comprehensive  border  of  hardy 
flowers,  but  very  often  cause  inconvenience  and 
trouble  in  gardens  of  small  dimensions. 

Those  who  wish  to  make  a  border  of  hardy 
flowers  are  often  in  doubt  as  to  how  to  proceed  with 
this  work.  Not  seldom  they  may  have  a  few 
plants  of  different  subjects  distributed  about 
their  gardens,  or  they  may  have  a  friend  who 
is  pleased  to  pass  on  a  clump  or  two  of  a  few 
of  the  better  things  that  rank  high  in  the 
estimation  of  those  who  know  and  appreciate 
the  beauties  and  usefulness  of  the  hardy  flowers. 
Two  subjects  that  are  worthy  of  recognition  are 
the  Geums  and  Spiraeas.  These  are  plants  that 
are  easy  to  manage,  and  the  merest  novice  can 
obtain  quite  a  number  of  suitable  pieces  by  the 
division  of  one  old  plant. 

The  Geums,  known  to  many  by  the  common 
name  of  Aveus,  are  very  showy  and  interesting 


2. — A  PLANT  OF  THE  rODBLB  DROPWORT 
(SPIR-KA  FILIPKNDnLA)  LIFTED  READY 
FOR   DIVISION. 

hardy  perennials,  and  are  well  adapted  for  border 
culture  and  the  rock  garden.  They  are  mostly 
brilliantly  coloured  flowers,  and  for  cutting  are 
much  in  demand. 

In  the  estimation  of  most  people  Geum  ooooi- 
neum,  the  scarlet  Avens,  is  one  of  the  best.  It  is 
a  general  favourite.  The  double  form,  however, 
is  by  far  the  most  attractive,  and  is  certainly 
more  valuable  than  the  type.  The  flowers  last 
much  longer  than  those  "of  the  single-flowered 
variety,  and  are  infinitely  superior  for  outdoor 
uses.  The  Geums  are  among  the  most  easily 
managed  of  hardy  plants,  and  are  not  in  the  least 
fastidious  as  to  soil,  growing  satisfactorily  in 
most  gardens  where  the  ground  is  well  tilled  and 
enriched  with  manure  of  a  lasting  character. 
Planting  is  usually  done  in  the  autumn  or 
spring,  but  so  long  as  the  soil  is  free  from  frost 
and  ordinary  care  is  observed  in  the  actual 
planting  of  this  subject,  this  work  may  be  done 
at  any  time  between  October  and  April.  The 
better  kinds,  in  addition  to  that  already  men- 
tioned, are  G.  Heldreichii,  a  pretty  kind, 
evolving  bright  orange  red  flowers  and  growing 
1  foot  in  height ;  G.  miniatum,  another  variety 
bearing  single  blossoms  of  an  orange  scarlet 
colour,  height  2  feet ;  and  the  dwarf  G  montanum 
aurantiacum,   which  has  orange  yellow  flowera 


December  25,  1909.J 


THE     GAEDEN. 


633 


3  — DIVIDED  GROWTHS  OF  THE  GEnM  ON  THE 
LEFT  AND  OF  THE  SPIK^BA  ON  THE 
BIGHT.  IF  PLANTED,  THESE  SOON  GROW 
INTO   GOOD   SPECIMENS. 

iind  grows  6  inohea  high.  There  are  others,  each 
of  which  is  beautiful  and  slightly  diflferent,  and 
all  are  worthy  of  a  place  where  accommodation 
can  be  found  tor  them. 

In  case  readers  are  not  aware  of  the  fact, 
it  may  be  stated  that  the  Geunis  are  sun-loving 
subjects  ;  and  if  the  plants  be  kept  moist  at  the 
roots  and  mulched  in  the  hottest  period  of  the 
summer,  they  will  flower  continuously  for  a  long 
time  with  the  greatest  freedom. 

The  herbaceous  SpiroaiS,  to  which  we  refer  in 
these  notes,  embrace  a  number  of  very  charming 
species  that  are  much  valued  in  the  hardy 
border,  as  well  as  for  grouping  in  colonies  by  the 
water-side  and  in  other  moist  situations.  To 
these  plants  belong  the  name  of  Meadowsweet. 
They  delight  in  a  moist,  rich  soil  where  they 
can  obtain  partial  shade.  In  such  conditions 
they  luxuriate  and  develop  their  distinct  and 
elegant  plumes  of  blossom  to  perfection.  They 
are  some  of  the  most  satisfactory  of  our  hardy 
herbaceous  perennials,  and  if  the  plants  are 
divided  and  also  replanted  every  three  or  four 
years,  the  results  will  be  all  that  the  grower 
could  well  desire. 

The  herbaceous  Spiraeas  should  be  mulched 
with  well-rotted  manure  in  April  or  earlier,  as 
the  growth  is  very  rapid  in  the  early  summer 
and  the  roots  very  readily  absorb  the  plant  food 
provided  in  this  way.  In  hot,  dry  summers  it  is 
necessary  to  apply  copious  applications  of 
water,  and  if  an  occasional  watering  of  liquid 
manure  can  be  applied,  the  prospects  of  the 
plants  will  be  more  satisfactory.  Autumn 
planting  of  the  Spiralis  is  to  be  preferred,  chiefly 
on  account  of  their  somewhat  early  flowering  lu 
the  succeeding  summer ;  but  if  this  is  not 
possible,  spring  planting,  carefully  done,  will 
yield  good  results. 

A  few  of  the  better  herbaceous  Spiraeas  are 
the  following  :  S.  Aruncus  (Goat's-beard),  white, 
flowering  in  summer,  height  3  feet  to  5  feet ; 
S.  Filipendula  flore-pleno  (double  Dropwort), 
white,  summer,  1  foot ;  S.  palmata,  crimson, 
June,  1  foot  to  2  feet,  and  its  varieties  alba 
(white),  elegans  (white  and  red),  and  purpurea 
(purple  leaved)  ;  S.  lobata  (Queen  of  the  i?rairies), 
pink,  June,  2  feet,  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the 
hardy  Spirseas,  besides  several  others. 

The  treatment  of  the  two  subjects  under 
notice  at  the  period  of  division  is  much  the 
same.  They  divide  quite  easily  and  very  seldom 
fail. 

In  Fig.  1  a  typical  clump  of  the  scarlet  Avens 
is  shown.  First  of  all,  lilt  the  plant  with  care, 
so  that  the  roots  are  damaged  as  little  as 
possible.  In  some  instances  the  roots  may  be 
pulled  apart  quite  easily  ;  in  others  consider- 
able force  may  be  necessary.  When  difficult  to 
divide,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  use  two  digging  forks. 


placing  these  back  to  back  in  the  centre  of 
the  clump  or  old  root.  A  little  pressure  of 
the  handles  will  cause  the  roots  to  divide  with 
ease. 

Fig.  2  represents  a  clump  of  Spirjea  Filipen- 
dula (Dropwort),  which  is  one  of  the  easiest  of 
all  plants  to  pull  asunder.  The  divided  pieces 
make  useful  little  tufts  that  never  fail  to  go 
ahead  at  once.  It  is  quite  remarkable  what  one 
old  clump  will  divide  into,  and  a  great  number 
of  these  plants  may  be  acquired  by  this  method 
in  a  few  years. 

On  the  left  of  Fig.  3  a  few  of  the  divided 
pieces  of  the  Geum  (scarlet  Avens)  are  shown. 
The  vigorous  growth  of  the  pieces  denotes  the 
hardiness  of  their  character,  and  with  such 
material  we  may  rest  assured  success  will  follow 
the  division.  The  pieces  on  the  right  of  the 
illustration  are  ideal  tufts  of  the  divided  old 
plant  of  the  Spirasi  represented  in  Fig.  2.  The 
beginner  will  be  quick  to  understand  and  appre- 
ciate the  value  of  such  material  with  which  to 
increase  these  two  subjects,  and  if  they  are 
planted  in  colonies  of  three  to  half-a-dozen  or 
more  in  each  colony,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4,  I  am 
satisfied  they  will  render  a  good  account  of  them- 
selves next  season  and  in  succeeding  years.  If 
more  convenient,  the  divided  pieces  can  be 
planted  in  nursery  rows  in  a  spare  corner  of  the 
garden,  at  a  distance  of  at  least  8  inches 
apart  in  the  rows  and  fully  1  foot  between  the 
rows.  Let  this  simple  method  of  dividing  the 
roots  be  observed,  and  good  plants  may  soon  be 
brought  into  being.  D.  B.  C. 


THE    TOWN    GARDEN. 


WiNDOW-BOXES  AT  CHRISTMAS.  —  Although 
many  window-boxes  maybe  already  filled  with 
spring-flowering  bulbs,  the  latter  have  not  as 
yet  pushed  their  leaves  through  the  soil,  so  that 
the  latter  is  quite  bare  at  the  present  time.  It 
would  be  much  better,  however,  to  have  the 
boxes  furnished  with  some  evergreens  for  the 
time  being.  Aucubas,  Euonymuses,  the  common 
Liurels,  Box  or  any  kind  of  evergreen  shrub 
may  be  used  for  this  purpose,  as  if  the  stems  of 
the  small  branches  are  pushed  down  into 
the  soil  quite  close  to  the  edge  of  the  box, 
there  will  be  no  risk  of  damaging  the  bulbs 
in  it.  The  different  kinds  of  shrubs  may  be 
mixed  in  each  box,  or  one  kind  only  may  be  put 
in  each. 

How  TO  Cut  the  SiiRnES. — Young  shrubs 
should  not  be  severely  cut  back  for  the  purpose 
ot  filling  window-boxes  with  their  branches.  Old 
specimens  are  preferable,  and 
even  in  their  case  much  care 
must  be  exercised  in  the  carrying 
out  of  the  work,  as  it  would  be  a 
pity  to  spoil  the  general  good 
appearance  and  lorm  of  any  shrub, 
however  common  it  may  be.  It  is 
possible  to  improve  the  shape  of 
the  shrub  by  judiciously  cutting 
away  straggling  shoots  and  others 
that  are  pressing  upon  the 
branches  of  neighbouring  speci- 
meus.  When  a  branch  is  cut  ofi', 
the  stem  of  it  must  be  severed 
several  inches  back,  inside  the 
leaves  of  smaller  branches  ;  then 
the  resultant  shoots  from  the 
stump  will,  in  due  ODurae,  grow 
about  level  with  the  others,  and 
not  in  a  bunch  far  beyond  them, 
as  would  be  the  case  if  the  stem 
was  cut  off  level  with  all  minor 
liranohes  and  their  leaves.  Win- 
dow-boxes containing  such  plants 
as  Wallflowers,  Aubrietias,  Myo- 
sotis  and  Polyanthuses  need  not  be 
furnished  with  the  branches  of 
evergreens,  though  the  latter  will 


do  no  damage  to  the  plants  if  they  are  so 
used,  and  they  would  certainly  protect  the 
plants  from  the  crippling  effect  of  severe 
frosts. 

Protecting  Border -Plants. — The  owner  of 
a  town  garden  is  often  obliged  to  purchase  every 
article  he  needs  in  the  way  of  material  for  enrich- 
ing the  soil,  for  use  in  dealing  with  pot  plants, 
and  in  keeping  all  outdoor  subjects  quite  safe 
from  frost.  The  result  is,  sometimes  (1  will  not 
say  always,  because  many  amateur  gardeners  do 
not  in  the  least  stint  the  necessary  supplies),  a 
shortage  of  suitable  material.  I  have  heard  of 
an  enthusiastic  amateur  who  was  growing  some 
special  varieties  of  Potatoes  for  exhibition  taking 
a  blanket  off  his  bed  to  protect  the  young  haulm 
from  a  late  spring  frost.  Truly  he  was  an  ardent 
cultivator  ;  but  I  do  not  think  any  town  gardener 
need  go  to  such  extremes  to  prevent  frost 
damaging  his  favourites  in  the  garden.  Although 
straw  and  Bracken  Fern  are  by  no  means 
plentiful  in  a  town  garden,  mats,  sacks,  ashes, 
and  Cocoanut  fibre  are,  and  all  of  them  are  most 
useful  for  covering  the  vaiious  kinds  of  the  more 
tender  border  plants.  Such  kinds  as  border 
Chrysanthemums,  although  they  will  not  be 
killed  by  the  frosts  of  average  winters,  are  often 
seriously  damaged,  and  if  a  nice  mulch  of  burnt 
coal  ashes  be  neatly  spread  round  the  old  roots, 
the  young  suckers  will  remain  quite  fresh.  The 
same  treatment  should  be  meted  out  to  other 
plants,  such  as  Fuchsias  and  Carnations,  Cocoa- 
nut  fibre  being  of  great  service  in  their  behalf, 
and  even  a  good  mulch  of  ordinary  dry  soil  taken 
from  the  shed  or  corner  where  the  general  potting 
work  is  done  will  do  wonders  in  the  way  of  pro- 
tecting the  roots  of  the  plants ;  but  it  must  be 
our  duty  to  see  that  the  roots  are  made  secure 
from  frost.  Where  soil  has  been  disturbed  in 
order  to  plant  Rose  and  other  trees  and  shrubs, 
the  frost  will  penetrate  more  readily  than  in  firm, 
undisturbed  ground  ;  so  it  will  be  a  wise  plan  on 
the  cultivator's  part  if  he  puts  on  a  mulch  of 
littery  manure,  or  even  some  tree  leaves  and  the 
faded  flowering  stems  of  the  border  plants. 

Violets  at  Christmas.  —  During  cold  and 
frosty  weather,  Violets  will  not  be  available 
even  from  plants  growing  in  frames  ;  but  where 
the  frames  are  fixed  on  a  slight  hot-bed,  and  wheo 
the  weather  is  not  unduly  cold,  some  flowers  msiy 
be  available.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  duly  protect 
all  Violet  plants  in  frames  if  frosts  occur ;  then 
an  early  supply  of  fragrant  flowers  will  be 
ensured.  Ventilation,  whenever  possible,  must 
be  afforded  these  plants,  as  we  must  remember 
that  they  are  quite  hardy,  damp  being  their 
greatest  enemy.  Dead  or  decaying  leaves  must 
be  removed  as  soon  as  seen  or  they  will  quickly 
contaminate  healthy  ones.  Avon. 


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COLONY   OF   YOUNG   PLANTS  IN  THE  BORDER.     PLANTED 
THUS  THEY  MAKE  A   VBBY'  EFFECTIVE  DISPLAY. 


634 


THE    GARDEN. 


[December  25,  1909. 


GARDENING  OF  THE 
WEEK. 

FOR    THE    SOUTH    AND   SOUTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Flower      Garden. 

ROSES — If  not  already  done,  give  the 
beds  a  thorough  dressing  with  well- 
deciyed  manure.  This  will  not  only 
protect  the  roots  from  severe  frost, 
but  the  rains  will  wash  the  manurial 
.  properties  well  into  the  ground  and 
greatly  benefit  the  plants  next  summer.  Keep  a 
watchful  eye  on  all  the  more  tender  varieties 
and  protect  accordingly.  A  little  long,  strawy 
litter  or  Bracken  fronds  scattered  lightly  over 
the  plants  will  answer  the  purpose  admirably. 
All  other  tender  subjects  must  receive  attention 
before  any  injury  occurs.  Some  of  the  choice 
shrubs  will  need  to  have  their  branches  tied 
carefully  together  and  garden  mats  or  some  other 
material  placed  round  them  to  keep  them  safe 
from  frost  during  severe  weather.  Attend  to 
the  restaking  of  all  kinds  of  plants,  as  this  is 
work  that  can  be  pushed  forward  when  other 
important  work,  owing  to  bad  weather,  is  at  a 
standstill.  When  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground, 
roll  walks  and  lawns  to  make  them  firm. 

Violets. — Attend  to  the  airing  of  the  frames  in 
which  these  are  growing,  removing  the  lights 
entirely  when,  the  weather  is  suitable.  Remove 
decayed  leaves  and  give  the  surface  of  the  beds  a 
gentle  stir  at  intervals  if  required.  During 
severe  weather  use  protective  mats,  removing 
these  when  the  weather  is  favourable. 

Hardy  Fruits. 

Continue  to  push  forward  the  pruning  of  all 
kinds  of  fruit  trees,  with  the  exception  of  Figs, 
Peaches  and  Nuts,  these  being  left  till  the  turn 
of  the  year.  Old,  neglected  horizontal-trained 
Apple  and  Pear  trees  may  be  relieved  of  a  portion 
of  their  long  snags  ;  cut  these  back  to  within  an 
inch  of  the  main  branches,  and  so  encourage  a 
fresh  break  of  buds,  both  fruit  and  wood,  closer 
to  the  old  stems  ;  use  a  small  saw  for  the  work, 
and  smooth  over  the  wounds  with  a  keen-edged 
pruning  knife.  If  a  portion  of  this  work  is  done 
each  year,  the  ensuing  crops  will  be  much  finer. 
Where  planting  still  has  to  be  done,  when  the 
weather  is  suitable  get  the  ground  in  readiness, 
so  that  the  work  may  be  quickly  accomplished 
when  the  trees  arrive  from  the  nursery.  Thin 
out  the  heads  of  all  orchard  trees  where  there  is 
overcrowding  of  the  branches.  A  little  timely 
attention  in  this  respect  will  result  in  better 
crops  and  larger  and  cleaner  fruits  ;  feed  the 
roots  well  with  deluges  of  farmyard  liquid, 
which  can  be  applied  at  a  greater  strength  now. 
Kitchen  Garden. 

Aaparwrns. — Strong,  healthy  roots  will  now 
force  readily  in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  ()5°  with 
a  bottom-heat  of  70".  The  roots  may  be  packed 
very  closely  together  and  covered  up  with  about 
3  inches  of  leaf-mould  and  gently  watered  with 
tepid  water.  The  shoots  should  be  ready  for  use  in 
about  twenty-one  days.  A  good  batch  of  Kidney 
Beans  of  the  Ne  Plus  Ultra  type  may  now  be 
planted  in  8  inch  pots,  well  drained  and  filled 
with  rather  rich  soil.  Plant  about  seven  Beans 
in  each  pot  and  stand  them  in  a  newly  started 
vinery.  When  growth  appears  they  should  be 
given  a  position  near  to  the  light  in  a  suitable 
torcing-house.  Batches  of  thirty  to  fifty  pots  at 
a  time  should  produce  a  fairly  heavy  supply  of 
pods. 

Gaulijlowera  in  Frames  must  be  given  plenty  of 
air  in  tavourable  weather,  removing  the  lights 
entirely  whenever  it  is  possible  to  do  so  without 
injury  to  the  plants  ;  the  same  applies  to 
young  Lsttuce  plants.  All  should  be  protected 
more  or  less  if  the  weather  proves  severe. 
H.  Markham. 
(Gardener  to  Viscount  Enfield. ) 

Wrotham  Parle  Gardens,  Bamet. 


FOK    THE    NORTH    AND    NOKTH 
MIDLANDS. 

Indoor  Fruit  Department. 
Plums  and  Cherries  — These,  requiring  identical 
treatment,  may  couveniently  occupy  one  house, 
and  as  the  earliest  crops  are  generally  taken  from 
pot  trees,  this  enables  several  varieties  to  be 
grown  which,  selected  for  the  purpose,  follow 
each  other  in  due  succession.  If  still  outside, 
the  house  may  be  cleansed  ready  to  receive  them 
and  the  plants  themselves  pruned  and  cleaned, 
and  if  thought  necessary  have  the  surface  soil 
removed  and  replenished  with  new.  Both  species 
are  very  impatient  of  an  excess  of  heat,  especially 
in  the  early  stages  of  growth ;  consequently 
merely  closing  the  ventilators  and  damping  the 
trees  and  all  surfaces  when  the  temperature  rises 
above  50"  from  sun-heat  will  suffice  for  some 
time  to  come.  Aphides  are  not  likely  to  be  in 
evidence,  but  should  mildew  have  been  prevalent 
in  previous  years,  the  young  stems  and  older  wood 
may  be  painted  with  flowers  of  sulphur  mixed 
with  water  to  a  workable  consistency. 

Strawberries. — The  earliest  of  these  will  now 
be  visibly  on  the  move,  and  much  care  will  be 
necessary  in  applying  water,  for  while  dryness 
at  the  root  should  not  be  permitted,  any  excess 
at  this  season  is  to  the  detriment  of  the  subsequent 
well-being  of  the  plants.  Successional  batches  of 
plants  should  be  taken  from  the  plunge-bed  from 
time  to  time,  and  after  being  cleared  of  decaying 
foliage  and  rubbish  be  placed  in  gentle  warmth 
to  excite  growth.  Eastertide  being,  perhaps, 
with  most  cultivators  the  period  when  the  first 
ripe  fruits  are  looked  for,  a  start  to  this  end 
should  be  made  early  in  the  New  Year. 
With  this  in  view,  a  deep  pit  filled  to  within  a 
few  inches  of  the  sashes  with  fresh  leaves  will  in 
the  interval  generate  a  gentle  heat.  Into  this 
bed  the  pots  may  be  plunged,  with  the  result  that 
root-action  will  be  well  in  advance  of  the  foliage. 
Kitchen  Garden. 

The  severe  weather  of  late  has  brought  to  an 
end  the  season's  crop  of  Cauliflower  ;  hence  extra 
attention  should  be  paid  to  Broccoli.  Any  of 
these  having  fairly  large  heads  may  be  lifted 
with  a  small  amount  of  soil  attached  to  the  roots 
and  be  placed  close  together  in  a  frame  or  shed. 
In  some  districts  the  only  safe  course  to  preserve 
the  crop  is  to  turn  the  plants  partly  over  with  the 
heads  towards  the  north  and  cover  the  entire 
stems  with  soil.  With  care  and  practice  this  can 
be  done  without  unduly  checking  the  growth  and 
ultimate  productiveness  of  the  plants. 

Oucuinhir.i  will  from  now  onwards  make  slow 
progress,  and  quality  will  accordingly  deteriorate. 
Apply  tepid  water  to  the  roots  moderately,  and 
syringe  the  foliage  on  bright  days  only  or  when 
the  temperature  rises  to  70°  or  more  from  sun- 
heat.  On  frosty  nights  a  mat  or  sheet  spread 
over  the  outside  of  the  house  would  be  helpful  in 
keeping  the  interior  temperature  at  about  fiO" 
without  resorting  to  an  excess  of  fire-heat. 

Tomatoes  likewise  ripen  slowly  on  the  plants 
To  accelerate  ripening  the  fruits  may  be  gathered 
when  partly  coloured  and  be  placed  in  a  box  upon 
the  hot-water  pipes  ;  this  also  assists  others  still 
later  to  make  belter  progress. 

Parsley  in  the  open  may  now  be  protected  by 
placing  a  frame  over  a  portion  of  the  bed,  or  even 
spare  lights  raised  sufficiently  by  some  easily 
contrived  method  answers  well.  Heavy  falls  of 
snow  are  more  destructive  to  this  crop  than  frost. 

Seakale  intended  for  forcing  may  now  be  raised 
when  the  weather  is  favourable.  Trim  ofl'  the 
thongs,  saving  the  thickest  for  future  planting, 
and  lay  both  these  and  the  crowns  in  soil  where 
frost  does  not  penetrate  until  wanted. 

Parsnips,  Salsify  and  Soorzonera  are  best  left 
in  the  soil  until  wanted  for  use  ;  but  should  indi- 
cations of  prolonged  frost  appear,  supplies  of 
these,  as  well  as  Artichokes,  Celery  and  Car- 
douus,  should  be  lilted  and  stored  ready  for 
use.  James  Day. 

(Gardener  to  Sir  Malcolm  M'Eaoharn.) 

Oalloway  House,  Oarlieston,  Wigtownshire. 


ROYAL  HORTICULTURAL 
AND  BOTANIC  SOCIETIES. 

THE  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  in  a 
letter  addressed  to  H.S.H.  the  Duke 
of  Teck,  president  of  the  Royal 
Botanic  Society,  expressed  its 
desire  to  confer  with  members  of 
that  body  with  a  view  to  securing 
the  future  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Regents 
Park,  which  were,  apparently,  in  danger  of  being 
closed.  When  this  letter  reached  the  council  of 
the  Royal  Botanic  Society,  the  matter  was  at 
once  carefully  considered,  and  representatives 
were  appointed  to  meet  others  nominated  by  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society.  The  conference 
took  place,  and  the  result  up  to  date  may  appear 
to  be  set  forth  in  some  correspondence  which  we 
have  received  from  the  secretary  of  the  Royal 
Botanic  Society.  In  a  memorandum  dated 
November  26,  1909,  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  gives  a  skeleton  outline  of  a  suggested 
working  arrangement  between  the  two  societies. 
After  describing  the  position  of  affairs  of  the 
Royal  Botanic  Society,  as  gathered  from  official 
circulars  issued  by  that  body,  it  states  the  objects 
aimed  at,  and  sets  forth  the  following  scheme: 
(a)  A  new  society  of  similar  or  joint  name  to 
be  formed  under  the  auspices  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society,  each  of  the  contributing 
societies  nominating  members  of  council  in  pro- 
portion to  the  number  of  existing  Fellows,  (h) 
The  Royal  Botanic  Society,  with  the  assent  of 
the  Department  of  Woods  and  Forests,  to  sub-let 
or  assign  its  lease  to  the  new  society  for 
the  full  term  of  such  lease  (less  one  month), 
the  Department  of  Woods  and  Forests  agreeing 
to  accept  payment  of  rent  from  the  new 
society  and  giving  it  their  receipt  in  dis- 
charge, (c)  A  covenant  to  be  inserted  in  the 
assignment  that  the  joint  society  is  to  give  up 
the  gardens  and  buildings  at  the  close  of  the 
lease  in  as  good  a  state  of  repair  as  when 
assigned,  {d)  The  Fellows  and  Associates  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  to  rank  as  Fellows 
and  Associates  of  the  new  society  on  the  same 
terms  and  conditions  and  with  the  same 
privileges  as  attach  to  them  as  Fellows  and 
Associates  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society, 
(c)  The  Fellows  and  debenture  holders  of  the 
Royal  Botanic  Society  to  rank  as  Fellows  of  the 
new  society  on  the  following  conditions  :  1.  Sab- 
scribing  Fellows  to  pay  to  the  new  society  the 
same  rate  of  subscription  they  at  present  pay  to 
the  Royal  Botanic  Society,  and  to  retain  all 
their  existing  privileges  at  Regent's  Park  and 
hive  added  thereto  all  the  privileges  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society  as  well.  2.  Life 
Fellows  and  debenture  holders  to  retain  all  their 
existing  privileges  at  Regent's  Park  and  have 
added  thereto  the  rank  and  privileges  of  Life 
Follows  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  as 
well.  (./  )  At  the  termination  of  the  lease  all 
Life  Fellows  and  debenture  holders  of  the  Royal 
Botanic  Society  to  cease  to  rank  as  Fellows  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  unless  the  lease 
be  renewed.  The  Royal  H  jrticultural  Society 
does  not  consider  that  the  question  of  "  imme- 
diate financial  assistance  "  rightly  comes  under 
the  above  scheme,  but  suggests  that  the  presi- 
dent should  bring  the  matter  before  the  council 
and  Fellows  for  their  consideration,  and  further 
states  that  the  above  outline  should  only  bo 
regarded  asa  basis  for  further  friendly  negotiation 
The  Royal  Botanic  Society,  in  reply,  dated 
Dacember  8,  1909,  thanks  the  special  committee 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  for  its  very 
frank  and  courteous  reception  at  Vincent  Square, 
and  accepts  the  above  memorandum  as  a  basis  for 
further  friendly  discussion  between  the  two 
societies.  "  The  actual  position  of  affairs  would 
seem  to  be  as  follows  :  The  Botanic  Society  is 
emerging  from  a  critieil  financial  position,  but 
is  gathering  its  forces  together,  and  with  the 
support  and  self-sacrifice  of  its  Fellows  and  the 
considerate  action  of  the  debenture  holders  is 


December  25,  1909.] 


THE     GARDEN. 


635 


now  in  a  bettnr  position  relatively  than  for  some 
years  past.  Prompt  fioanoial  assistance  would, 
of  oourse,  further  improve  matters.  The  Royal 
Botanic  Society  has  possession  of  admittedly  the 
finest  garden  in  London,  which,  if  lost,  could 
never  be  replaced,  and  the  prospects  of  the 
society  for  next  season  are  good. '' 

"The  Royal  Horticultural  Society  is  in  a 
strong  financial  position,  and  has  a  hall  in 
Vincent  Square,  where  flower  shows  are  held 
fortnightly,  supported  by  a  brisk  trade  element." 
"  On  the  other  hand,  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  has  no  garden  of  its  own  in  London,  and 
depends  for  its  more  important  gatherings  on 
the  friendly  aid  of  the  owners  of  the  Temple 
Gardens  or  of  Holland  H^use,  or  on  the  hire  of 
grounds  such  as  those  of  Chelsea  Hospital,  &c." 
"  Under  the  heading  of  '  Financial  Assistance,' 
it  is  to  be  gathered  that  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  do  not  think  this  rightly  comes  within 
the  scheme  at  all."  This,  however,  does  not 
seem  to  be  the  opinion  of  the  Royal  Botanic 
Society,  who  add,  "  If,  therefore,  the  negotia- 
tion i '  to  proceed  with  hope  of  useful  results,  the 
Special  Committee  invite  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  (o  make  their  proposals  more  clear  and 
definite,  aspeeially  as  to  finance."  They  further 
add  a  suggestion  which  has  doubtless  been  in  the 
minds  of  many  Fellows  of  both  societies  that, 
"  Without  interfering  with  the  constitution  or 
independence  of  either  society  it  would,  of  course, 
be  possible  to  arrange  for  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society  to  enjoy  similar  facilities  at  Regent's 
Park  to  those  which  they  have  had  in  previous 
years  at  the  Temple  Gardens,"  or  elsewhere. 
"  The  Special  Committee  of  the  Royal  Botanic 
Society  would  cordially  consider  any  proposition 
in  that  respect  for  the  ensuing  season  of  1910." 


TO 


ANSWERS 
CORRESPONDENTS. 


RULES    FOR  CORRESPONDENTS. 

Questions  and.  Aasweps. — The  Editor  intends 
to  make  The  G-arden  helpftd  to  all  readers  who  desire 
assistance^  no  matter  what  the  branch  of  gardening  may 
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"  Answers  to  Correspondents^'  column.  All  comynunica- 
tions  should  be  clearly  and  concisely  written  on  one  side 
of  the  paper  only,  and  addressed  to  the  Editor  op  The 
Garden,  so,  Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London, 
W.C.  Letters  on  business  should  be  sent  to  the  Pdblisher. 
The  7iame  cta^  aiiress  of  the  sender  are  required  in 
addition  to  any  designation  he  may  desire  to  be  used  tn  the 
paper.  When  more  than  one  query  is  sent,  each  should 
be  on  a  separate  piece  of  paper. 


FLOWER    GA.RDEN. 
Treatment    of     Gladiolus     seed 

(Artificial). — Gladiolus  seed  may  be  sowq  in  the 
autuma  as  soon  as  it  is  ripe,  and  kept  in  a  cool 
greenhouse  all  the  winter  out  of  the  reaoh  of  frost, 
or,  what  is  just  as  good,  it  may  be  sown  about 
the  middle  of  February  in  gentle  heat.  Any 
light,  gritty  soil  is  suitable,  and  the  pan3  or 
boxes  should  be  rather  deeper  than  usual.  The 
seeds  should  be  sown  thinly  about  hilf  an  inch 
apart,  and  should  be  covered  with  the  same  depth 
of  soil.  The  seed  germinates  very  freely  and, 
for  bulbous  plants,  quickly.  In  a  few  weeks' 
time  the  pan  will  be  full  of  little  plants,  each 
with  a  single  slender  leaf.  These  should  be  kept 
growing  all  the  summer  and  allowed  to  die  down 
about  September  or  October,  The  little  corms 
which  will  then  have  formed  may  be  kept  in  the 
dry  soil  of  the  pans  until  it  is  time  to  plant 
them  out  the  following  April  in  the  open  ground. 
If  small  roots  have  been  formed  before  planting, 
they  must  be  carefully  preserved.  A  few  of  the 
strongest  seedlings  may  flower  the  second  year, 
but  most  will  not  do  so  until  the  third  season. 
The  routine  of  lifting  and  storing  and  replanting 
the   second    year  corms    is   precisely  the   same 


as  must  be  followed  in  the  case  of  large  ones. 
The  above  is  the  treatment  observed  in  the  ca^e 
of  aandaven'^is  and  Childsii  seed ;  no  doubt 
GroffV  hybrids  seed  miy  be  simiUrly  dealt  with. 

Hollyhocks  diseased  (P.  S.  Rayward).—The 
HoUvhock  leaves  are  attacked  by  the  funcfus  Puccinia 
malvacearum,  the  cause  of  the  well-known  ani  often  fatal 
HoUvhock  disease  Some  relief  may  be  obtained  by  spray- 
ing the  plants  with  a  rose  red  solution  of  potassium  per- 
manganate. This  is  said  to  check  the  spread  of  the 
fungus  ;  but,  of  course,  the  fungns  inside  the  plant  is  not 
killed,  80  that  it  is  necessary  to  persist  in  the  treatment. 

Lilium  aupatum  (E.  M.  L.  B ). — This  species  is 
quite  hardy,  and  may  be  started  into  growth  in  a  cold 
frame  with  impunity.  As  the  plants  will  be  now  inactive, 
and  generally  in  a  rootless  condition,  no  water  will  be 
required  for  some  months.  In  the  event  of  a  severe  wint<^r. 
it  would  be  better  if  the  nots  were  plunged  their  full 
depth  m  ashes  or  Cocoa-nut  fibre  ti  prevent  their  breaking, 
the  pots  to  be  removed  from  the  plunging-bed  when  a 
few  inches  of  new  growth  is  apparent. 

Planttn^T  a  herbaeeous  oopdep  (Spring).— 
If  you  are  anticipating  following  the  lines  laid  down  in  the 
article  to  which  you  refer,  your  better  plan  would  be  to 
increase  the  area  of  each  group,  though,  of  course,  it  would 
be  simple  enough  to  add  other  flowers  of  similar  colour. 
As  in  your  case,  however,  you  desire  the  display  for  the 
first  half  of  the  year  chiefly,  you  can  hardly  do  better  than 
follow  the  teachings  of  the  article  in  question.  You  will 
notice  that  a  very  considerable  number  of  annuals  apoear 
in  the  lists  cited,  and  these,  if  sown  in  time  and  thinned 
early,  are  capable  of  affording  rich  and  strong  effects  at 
flowering  time.  At  the  same  time  there  is  a  considerable 
lack  of  the  bolder  and  showier  perennials,  Irises,  Globe 
Flowers,  together  with  Gaillardia<»  and  Liliums,  while 
single  or  douole  Pyrethrums  aud  Pseonies  find  only  very 
feeble  mention  or  place.  Again,  the  Dropmore  Auchusa 
referred  to  as  coarse  would  be  far  Icis  so  in  your  case  than 
the  one  mentioned,  while  the  all-too-uncertaio  Delphinium 
nudicaule  is  not  a  success  everywhere.  Your  treatment  of 
the  border  is  quite  right. 

TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 
Holly  without  berples  {B.  J.  S.).— 

It  is  quite  a  common  occurrence  for  some  Hollies 
never  to  produce  fruit.  As  a  rule,  different 
Hollies  bear  male  or  female  flowers  only,  and  the 
former  rarely  produce  fruit,  though  occasionally 
a  few  odd  flowers  may  be  found  with  the  female 
organs  fully  developed.  The  cultivated  varieties 
are  roughly  divided  into  fruiting  and  non-fruit- 
ing groups.  The  following  kinds  bear  fruit : 
Ilex  Aquifolium  angustifolia,  I.  argentea  mar- 
ginata,  I.  raedio-picta,  I.  aurea  m^rginata, 
I.  caraelUsefolia,  I.  flavescens,  I.  fructu-luteo,  I. 
Handsworth  New  Silver,  I.  integrifolia  (partly), 
and  1.  platyphylla.  The  best  way  to  obtain 
fruiting  examples  of  the  type  is  to  visit  a  nursery 
and  select  those  with  fruit  on. 

Cultivation  of  Lavender  (Jos.  ffawkim).~The 
best  kind  of  Lavender  to  grow  for  its  fragrance  is 
Lavandula  vera.  This  is  cultivated  extensively  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Mftcham,  Surrey,  both  to  obtain  the 
essential  oil  from  the  flowers,  which  is  done  bv  distillation, 
and  also  for  cutting  to  sell  in  bunches.  \'"our  best  plan, 
as  you  evidently  wish  to  grow  the  Lavender  for  commercial 
purposes,  would  be  to  obtain  stock  plants  from  one  of  the 
Mitcham  growers.  The  best  kind  of  soil  for  Lavender  is 
a  moderately  good  loam  bordering  on  clay,  with  good 
drainage.  The  Jand  should  be  well  dug  or  ploughed,  and 
the  plants  in^ierted  in  rows  2^^  feet  to  3  feet  apart,  the 
plants  being  2  feet  to  2^  feet  apart  in  the  rows.  To 
economise  ground  a  catch  crop  may  be  taken  off  the 
ground  from  between  the  plants  the  first  year.  Lettuces 
would  do  very  well  for  the  purpose.  The  stock  of  plants 
may  be  readily  increased  during  summer  bv  making 
cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  and  dibbling  them  firmly  into 
a  border  of  sandy  soil  in  a  shaded  position.  If  a  cold 
frame  is  at  liberty  and  the  cuttings  can  be  put  into  that 
and  left  for  the  winter,  so  much  the  better.  In  spring 
plant  them  in  nursery  quarters  for  a  year  ;  then  transfer 
them  to  their  permanent  positions.  Old  plantations  are 
improved  by  a  dressing  of  manure  in  spring ;  but  when  the 
plarits  show  signs  of  serious  deterioration,  they  should  be 
turned  out  and  a  fresh  start  made  on  now  ground,  for  any- 
thing like  a  satisfactory  return  of  flowers  cannot  be 
expected  from  impoverished  plants.  After  the  destruction 
of  one  lot  of  plants,  the  ground  should  be  well  manured 
and  put  under  ordinary  farm  crops  for  two  or  three  years 
before  replanting  with  Lavender.  Lavender  is  as  profitable 
a  crop  as  any  other  farm  crop  if  you  have  proper  con- 
venience for  disposing  of  the  flowers,  and  it  is  really  a 
personal  matter  as  to  whether  the  disposal  of  flowers  or 
distillation  is  the  most  profitable  way  of  dealing  w'th  the 
crop.  If  you  have  a  market  handy  for  bunches  of  flowers, 
dispose  of  them  in  that  way ;  if  not,  send  them  for 
distillation. 


ROSE    G4ROEN. 
Roses   pegrsred   down   {A.  E.  JR.).— 
Grii33  an  Teplitz  is  a  very  embarrassing  Rose  to 
deal  with  in  abed  ;  in  fact,  it  is  unsuitable  for  the 


purpose  unless  in  a  very  large  bed  upon  a 
spacious  lawn,  where  bold  growth  is  admissible. 
We  have  found  it  best  to  lift  the  plants  each 
season  when  growing  in  strong  soil ;  then  at 
pruniner-time  to  cut  back  the  growths  to  within 
about  18  inches  or  2  feet  of  the  ground.  It  really 
blooms  best  in  a  soil  with  gravel  subsoil  and 
rather  of  poor  quality.  In  strong  soil  its  growth 
is  too  vigorous  for  bedding,  even  though  pegrged 
down.  We  advise  you  to  replace  this  Rose 
with  General  McArthur,  a  freer  and  altogether 
more  suitable  kind.  It  would  grow  well  with 
Caroline  Testout.  As  regards  the  latter,  it  is 
best  not  pegged  down,  but  should  be  pruned  back 
within  4  inches  or  5  inches  of  the  ground  each 
year  ;  then  you  get  a  splendid  blooming,  provid- 
ing always  the  soil  has  been  well  prepared  before 
planting  the  Roses.  If  you  have  some  well- 
decomposed  manure,  a  dressing  now  would  be 
beneflcial,  but  it  should  either  be  dug  under 
or  soil  covered  over  it.  On  no  account  use 
wet  fresh  manure,  which  keeps  the  roots  cold  all 
the  winter,  depriving  them  of  the  air  and  solar 
warmth.  A  dressing  now  with  basic  slag  is  also 
helpful  to  a  soil  at  all  deficient  in  lime. 

Top-dpessin?  Rose-beds  (iV.  w.^—We 
advise  a  top-dreising  of  good  manure  at  once  and,  if 
possible,  just  lightly  dig  it  under  the  soil.  In  February 
give  the  beds  a  dressing  of  Tonk's  manure.  This  would 
be  better  than  either  bones  or  basic  slag. 

Cntmson  Roses  for  pall  (47?ia(or).  —  The  rail 
would  look  well  covered  with  the  crimson-scarlet  Griiis  an 
Teplitz  or  pink  Lady  Waterlow.  You  would  require  three 
or  four  plants  of  either  sort.  Dorothy  Perkins  would  be 
very  lovely,  especially  if  you  wish  the  soil  to  be 
covered  also  with  Roses.  It  is  a  rapid-growing  pink  sort, 
flowering  in  clusters,  but  always  looks  so  refreshing  with 
its  glossy  foliage. 

Roses  foP  nopth  wralKFanim^/?).— The  varieties 
you  have  on  the  north  wall  had  better  be  removed,  as  they 
are  not  at  all  suitable.  Plant  them  where  they  can  obtain 
some  sun.  All  excepting  Climbing  K.  A.  Victoria  would 
make  good  pillar  Roses  if  you  have  no  south  or  west  wall 
available.  You  could  plant  on  the  north  wall  such  as 
F61icitd  Perp^tue.  Flora,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Relne  M". 
Henriettie,  Bennett's  Seedling  or  Arda  Rover  with  a  pros- 
pect of  success,  especially  if  yon  encourage  them  to  grow 
away  from  the  wall  somewhat.  This  can  be  done  by 
driving  int")  the  wall  some  iron  supports  about  2  feet  in 
length.  The  growths  are  then  attached  to  these  and 
droop  over  the  wall  without  any  formal  training.  You 
could  improve  the  soil  by  putting  in,  about  a  foot  in  depth. 
some  rough  stones,  brick-bats  or  clinkers,  which  would 
tend  to  drain  it.  This  need  only  be  done  in  the  holes  you 
open  out  for  the  Rosea.  Clematis  would  not  do  on  this 
wall,  but  you  could  grow  Pyracantha  Lelandil,  Lonicera 
halleana  and  Wistaria. 

Pruning  Rose  Dopothy  Perkins  (Mrs. 
A.  C.  D.). — As  mav  be  seen  from  the  illustrations  of  this 
glorious  Rose  in  The  Garbes  for  October  9,  ib  is  capable 
of  covering  very  large  spaces,  and  to  cut  away  its  old 
growths  as  we  d  t  Crimson  Rambler  would  be  a  very  bad 
policy.  Much  depends  upon  the  area  available  for  the 
Rose.  If  confined  to  a  single  pole,  then  some  of  the  old 
wood  should  be  removed  to  make  way  for  the  ripened 
growths  of  this  season's  production,  for  these  unques* 
tionably  yield  the  finest  trails  of  blossom  ;  but  if  you  can 
open  out  the  plant  on  to  other  poles,  or  make  a  trellis  of 
stout  wire  on  either  side,  then  some  of  the  old  growths 
could  be  trained  on  to  such  wires,  so  that  in  time  you 
would  have  specimens  as  illustrated.  When  old  wood  is 
retained,  the  laterals  are  cut  back  to  within  1  inch  or 
2  inches  of  the  old  growths  ;  they  then  produce  much 
superior  clusters,  but  this  is  not  done  until  March.  Very 
often  one  Is  able  to  lead  one  of  the  long  growths  from 
pillar  specimens  along  the  edge  of  a  path,  and  this 
arrangement  is  very  pretty  and  causes  no  inconvenience  to 
the  pillar  in  any  way.  It  is  the  pliability  of  the  growths 
of  the  wichuraiana  Roses  that  makes  the  group  so  useful, 
and  all  who  contemplate  planting  them  should  provide 
abundant  space  for  their  future  development  on  these 
lines. 


THE    GREENHOUSE. 

How  to  cross-fertilise  Chrysan- 
themums ( Weekly  Reader).  —  You  must 
transfer  the  pollen,  which  is  the  male  fertilising 
agent,  to  the  stigma  of  the  flower  you  desire  to 
impregnate  when  the  latter  is  in  a  fit  condition 
to  receive  it,  using  a  camel-hair  brush  to  carry 
this  into  effect.  Having  successfully  effected 
this,  your  next  concern  will  be  to  ripen  the  seeds 
as  soon  as  the  latter  have  developed  sufficiently. 
In  this  country,  owing  to  the  olimatio  conditions 
that  prevail  in  the  winter  season,  warfare  against 
mildew,  green  fly  and  damping  must  be  waged 
most  persistently.  This  should  be  observed  for 
fully  si^  weeks    to    two    months.     A  buoyant 


7608 


93 


636 


THE     GARDEN. 


[December  25,  1909. 


condition  of  tho  atmosphere  is  essential  to 
success,  and  to  be  assured  of  this  you  should  tie 
down  the  fertilised  bloom-head  so  that  it  may 
be  secured  over  a  row  of  hot-water  pipes,  where 
a  dry,  buoyant  atmosphere  can  be  assured. 
Tobacco  powder  and  sulphur  should  be  applied 
from  time  to  time  to  keep  down  green  fly  and 
mildew,  and  with  an  occasional  fumigation  of 
the  glass  structure  your  plants  should  come 
through  the  ordeal  fairly  well.  A  month  of  such 
treatment  should  make  the  bloom-head  suffi- 
ciently ripe  for  detaching  from  the  plant,  and 
subsequently  it  should  be  placed  in  a  metal  pan 
and  this  be  secured  on  the  hot-water  pipes. 
From  time  to  time  the  detached  bloom-head 
should  be  turned  over,  and  in  the  course  of  a 
week  or  so  the  seeds  will  part  from  their 
attachment  at  their  base,  and  in  another  week 
the  seeds  should  be  ripe.  This  is  a  very  short 
description  of  the  operation,  and  we  think  you 
will  quite  understand  how  to  proceed.  An 
excellent  article  on  "  Raising  English  Seedlings" 
appears  in  the  "  Chrysanthemum  Guide "  pub- 
lished by  H.  J.  .Jones'  Nurseries,  Limited, 
Lewisham,  S.  E  ,  price  6d.,  and  to  this  publica- 
tion we  would  direct  your  attention  should  you 
desire  further  information. 

Tpeatmentof  Apum  Lilies  (E.  M.M.). 
As  you  suggest,  your  Arum  Lilies  require 
something  to  strengthen  them,  and  as  they  are 
growing  up  tall  and  weak,  there  is  no  doubt  that 
what  they  need  is  more  air  and  light.  On  no 
account  should  they  be  repotted  at  this  season, 
but  if  the  pots  are  well  furnished  with  roots  they 
may  with  advantage  have  a  dose  of  weak  guano 
water  about  once  a  fortnight.  The  Arum  Lily  is 
a  native  of  Cape  Colony,  and  may  be  safely 
wintered  in  a  greenhouse  from  which  frost  is 
excluded.  Presumably  yours  are  in  a  dwelling- 
house,  although  you  do  not  say  so,  in  which  case 
an  unduly  dry  atmosphere  will  cause  the  leaves 
to  turn  brown  at  the  tips.  Plenty  of  light  and 
a  free  circulation  of  air  tend  to  encourage  good, 
firm,  healthy  leaves,  which  are  better  able  to 
resist  any  adverse  condition  than  those  which  are 
soft  and  attenuated. 

Pancpatium  leaf  dlscolouped  (.H. ,?.).— Pan- 
cratinms  and  several  of  their  allies  are  liable  to  get  their 
leaves  discoloured  after  the  manner  of  the  specimen  sent, 
Different  theories  have  been  brought  forward  as  to  the 
cause,  the  most  generally  accepted  being  that  it  follows 
the  attacks  of  thrips  on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves, 
especially  if  the  structure  is  kept  rather  cold  and  damp. 
The  leaf  sent  shows  traces  of  thrips,  which  may  be 
destroyed  by  sponging  the  leaves  with  a  lather  of  soft  soap 
and  water.  If  you  keep  the  leaves  of  your  plant  clean  by 
this  means  and  maintain  a  light,  buoyant  atmosphere  in 
the  structure  they  are  grown  in,  we  do  not  think  this 
discoloration  will  give  you  much  further  trouble.  A 
minimum  winter  temperature  of  55°  is  very  suitable  for 
the  successful  culture  of  Pancratiums. 

Prices  of  Orchids  (TT.  J^.  Castle)  —There  has  been 
an  Orchid  sold  for  more  than  £1,000,  as  at  a  sale  of  Orchids 
from  the  celebrated  collection  of  H.  T.  Pitt,  Esq.,  Rosslyn, 
Stamford  Hill,  which  was  held  at  the  auction  rooms  of 
Messrs.  Protheroe  and  Morris  on  March  •J'2, 1906,  a  plant 
of  Odontogl'issum  crispum  pittianum  was  sold  for  1.150 
guineas,  Messrs  Sander  and  Sons  of  .St.  Albans  being  the  pur- 
chasers. Other  high  prices  realised  at  the  same  time  were 
O  crispum  F.  K.  Sander,  800  guineas;  O.  c.  Abner  Hassall, 
470  guineas  ;  O.  c.  Pittise,  400  guineas  :  and  O.  c.  Fearnley 
Sander,  300  guineas.  In  the  case  of  plants  sold  privately, 
numerous  rumours  have  at  times  been  circulated  as  to  the 
prices  paid,  but  these  cannot,  of  course,  be  verified,  whereas 
those  mentioned  above  were  disposed  of  in  an  open  sale. 


KITCHEN    GARDEN. 
Decayed  Celery  {O.  S.). — The  sample  of 

Celery  sent  shows  excellent  culture,  being  solid, 
sweet  and  of  good  colour  ;  but,  as  you  note,  the 
centre  of  the  plant  is  decayed,  and  you  say  that 
the  same  thing  has  occurred  for  three  years  in 
euooession.  We  are  glad  you  mentioned  this, 
as  it  helps  us  greatly  in  describing  the  evil 
complained  of.  It  is  not  in  any  way  caused  by 
the  nature  of  the  soil  or  manure,  and  as  yours  is  a 
light  soil  on  gravel,  it  does  not  arise  from 
excessive  moisture.  We  feel  sure  the  trouble  is 
caused  by  what  we  may  term  too  much  earthing- 
up  at  the  centre  of  the  plant,  which  causes  the 
tender  growths  to  cease  growing,  with  the  result 


that  moisture  runs  down  and  decay  sets  in. 
The  longer  the  earthing-up  process  is  delayed 
the  better,  as  the  tissue  of  the  stalk  hardens  by 
exposure,  but  soon  decays  when  growth  is 
arrested.  Only  small  portions  of  soil  should  be 
placed  to  the  plants  at  one  time,  not  enough  to 
check  the  centre  growth  of  the  plant. 

Celery  for  inspection  (C.  X.  ,4.).— The  Celery 
has  been  damaged  by  wireworm  or  some  other  soil 
insect,  which  was  not  present  on  the  specimens  sent. 
Possibly  Carrot  fly  has  been  at  work  upon  it. 

Mushrooms  for  Inspection  (D.  t.  .S.).— The 
little  dark  insects  are  species  of  Colleml)Ola,  or  spiny 
tails.  These  probably  feed  upon  the  Mushrooms  after 
they  begin  to  decay,  and  are  not  the  direct  cause  of  the 
trouble.  The  Mushrooms  appear  to  be  attacked  by  a 
parasitic  fungus  (Hypomyces),  but  the  material  is 
insufficient  to  say  with  certainty. 


FRUIT     GARDEN. 
Amepican    blight    and   cankep 

(M-).  — It  is  very  doubtful  whether  the  cart- 
grease  could  be  effectively  applied  to  the  crevices 
without  thinning  it  by  some  means.  Methylated 
spirit  painted  over  the  spots  thoroughly  in  the 
summer  and  an  alkali  wash  forcibly  injected  into 
their  haunts  in  the  winter  are  two  most  effective 
methods  of  dealing  with  the  pest  at  present 
available.  It  would  be  useless  for  canker  treat- 
ment. Canker  spots  should  be  pruned  out  and 
the  wounds  painted  with  tar. 

How  to  treat  Vines  in  pots  (D.  A.). 
The  young  canes  must  not  be  pruned  until  the 
middle  or  end  of  December.  Then  cut  them  back 
to  within  20  inches  of  the  base  of  the  current 
year's  growth.  It  would  only  weaken  the  new 
shoots  if  the  canes  were  left  longer  after  the 
pruning.  The  Vines  will  need  disbudding  when 
the  new  shoots  commence  to  grow,  of  course.  If 
you  are  obliged  to  grow  the  Vines  in  pots,  shift 
them  into  14-inch  ones  at  the  end  of  this  year  ; 
only  remove  the  old  crocks  and  any  loose  soil, 
but  do  not  disturb  the  ball  of  soil  and  roots 
otherwise.     Use  good  fibrous  loam. 

Peaches  groins  wpong  {A.  H.).— 
Gumming  is  undoubtedly  the  cause  of  the  trouble 
with  the  Peaches,  and  this  is  caused  by  the 
attack  of  a  bacillus  which  gains  ^n  entrance  into 
the  trees  through  wounds  and  causes  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  cellulose  of  the  cell  walls,  which  is 
transformed  into  gum.  Gumming  in  Peaches 
and  other  stone  fruits  follows  bad  treatment, 
such  as  bad  pruning  at  the  wrong  time  of  year, 
inattention  to  drainage  of  the  borders — in  fact, 
anything  that  is  likely  to  bring  the  trefs  into 
bad  health.  When  it  occurs  the  part  affected 
should  be  out  out  and  the  wound  painted  over 
with  white  paint  or  something  else  that  would 
prevent  the  entrance  of  germs  of  fungi  and 
bacteria. 

Neglected  Apple  opchapd  (E.  R.).— 
Taking  it  for  granted  that  the  trees  are  properly 
pruned,  and  the  dead  wood,  if  any,  cut  out, 
the  first  thing  to  do  will  be  to  clear  the  ground 
underneath  and  around  the  trees  of  all  grass  or 
weeds  of  any  description.  The  next  thing  to  do 
will  be  to  sprinkle  a  quart  of  bone-dust  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil  for  a  distance  of  4  feet  or 
5  feet  round  the  trees,  measuring  from  the  stem. 
Fork  this  carefully  into  the  soil  4  inches  deep, 
without  disturbing  the  roots  of  the  trees  more 
than  you  can  help ;  afterwards  place  a  barrow- 
load  of  rotten  rich  farmyard  manure  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil  round  each  tree.  The  winter 
and  spring  rains  will  wash  the  goodness  of  this 
to  the  roots  of  the  trees,  resulting,  you  will 
find,  in  larger  and  better  quality  fruit  next  year. 

Spots  on  Apple  (G.  B.  S.).— The  spotting  is  due 
to  the  fungus  Glocosporium  fructigenum,  which  attacks  a 
large  number  of  different  fruits.  Remove  and  destroy  by 
flre  all  diseased  fruit  (see  that  it  is  not  thrown  on  the 
rubbish-heap).  Spray  next  summer,  beginning  after  the 
petals  have  fallen,  with  Bordeaux  mixture  of  half  the  usual 
strength. 

Burbank's  and  other  Plums  (if-  L.  Barreto). 
We  do  not  know  who  would  be  the  most  likely  to  have 
Burbank's  latest  novelties  in  fruit  trees.  The  best  way 
would  be  to  get  them  from  the  raiser.  The  Plums  which 
are  sold  so  cheaply  in  the  streets  are,  the  Victoria  Plums, 


the  most  prolific  of  all.  They  come  from  all  parts  of 
England,  but  especially  from  Worcestershire. 

Removlner  superfluous  old  wood  from 
Apple,  Pear  and  rtum  trees  (IF.  A'.  S.).— These 
branches  may  be  safely  removed  at  any  time  after  the  fall 
of  the  leaf  until  the  end  of  January.  All  tree  pruning 
should  be  finished  by  that  date,  because  if  delayed  much 
later  than  this  there  is  danger  of  the  trees  bleeding  from 
the  cuts. 

Barren  Fig  tree  iM.  M.  i.).— We  are  gratified  to 
hear  that  our  correspondent  has  been  able  in  the  course  of 
a  year  to  convert  her  barren  Fig  tree  into  a  fruitful  one  by 
carrying  out  the  course  of  treatment  recommended  by  us. 
It  is  a  good  sign  that  the  tree  is  not  overburdened  with 
foliage,  as  this  means  that  the  shoots  will  be  better 
matured  and  ripened  than  they  would  if  the  tree  were  too 
densely  covered  with  leaves,  and,  consequently,  a  better 
crop  of  fruit  may  be  looked  for  next  year. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Gpubs  foP  inspection  (£.  T.  Engla>i(l).~The 
grubs  sent  are  not  at  all  likely  to  harm  Tulips.  They  are 
those  of  a  two-winged  fly  allied  to  the  common  blue-bottle 
fly,  and  feed  od  garbage.  It  is  possible  your  soil  is 
too  rich  in  such  stuff- 
Liming*  a  garden  (H.  T.).  —  When  information 
regarding  manures  is  desired,  the  kind  of  soil  to  be  treated 
should  always  be  stated.  In  liming  clay  land  the  best 
way  is  to  put  small  heaps  of  unslaked  lime  on  the  ground 
in  the  autumn,  cover  them  with  a  little  soil  and  allow  it  to 
slake,  when  it  will  fall  to  powder,  then  spread  the  powdered 
lime  over  the  surface  and  dig  in.  This  should  be  at  the 
rate  of  about  a  half-bushel  to  the  rod.  On  a  lighter  soil, 
chalk,  either  in  the  powdered  form  or  in  very  small  lumps. 
applied  at  the  rate  of  about  two  bushels  to  the  rod  and 
thoroughly  incorperated  with  the  surface  soil,  will  be  a 
safe  and  valuable  dressing. 

Ppotecting  fpuit  trees  from  pabbits  and 
insects  (-4  Subscriber).— The  best  wash  for  protecting 
the  stems  of  fruit  trees  from  rabbits  is  made  of  limewash 
and  Tobacco  juice,  a  quart  of  the  latter  to  three  gallons 
of  the  former.  A  reapplication  of  the  wash  should  be 
applied  occasionally,  as  it  is  rendered  ineffective  by 
exposure  to  the  weather  for  long.  The  wash  should  be 
applied  fairly  thick.  The  best  way  of  clearing  your  trees 
of  insects  and  moss  growth  will  be  by  spraying  them  in 
February  with  caustic  alkali  wash.  This  may  be  had, 
ready  mixed,  from  seed  merchants  and  sundriesmen  with 
directions  how  to  use. 

Bone-meal  fop  inspectvon(£.  F.).— The  sample 
appears  to  be  steamed  bone-Hour— it  is  too  fine  for  the 
usual  samples  of  bone-meal,  steamed  bone-flour  contains 
about  1  per  cent,  of  nitrugen  and  30  per  cent,  of  phos- 
phoric acid,  a  considerable  part  of  which  is  '*  available," 
and  it  is,  therefore,  a  valuable  manure,  though  not  very 
active.  Bone-meal  is  richer  in  nitrogen,  but  is  less  readily 
acted  upon  in  the  soil  owing  to  its  coarser  character.  It 
is  particularly  valuable  on  grass  land,  and  may  be  used, 
wherever  phosphatic  manures  are  required,  in  potting  soil 
or  in  Vine  borders  at  the-  rate  of  4oz.  to  Soz.  per 
square  yard,  but  probably  basic  slag  will  be  found  cheaper 
and  superphosphate  more  active.  The  value  would  be,  if 
the  analysis  shows  the  usual  composition,  about  £4  to  £5 
per  ton. 

'Wipe'fvopms  and  millipedes  in  Potato 
gpound  (,W.  J.  if.).— The  best  thing  you  can  do  is  to 
water  the  ground  with  a  strong  solution  of  lime-water  (a 
bushel  of  quicklime  to  eighteen  gallons  of  water).  Allow 
the  water  time  to  clear  after  mixing  with  the  lime,  and 
water  the  soil  with  clear  water  only.  This  you  will  find 
will  bring  most,  if  not  all,  the  worms  to  the  surface,  when 
they  should  be  collected  and  burnt.  The  wireworm  is 
difficult  to  kill,  and  the  application  may  not  do  so  ; 
hence  the  necessity  of  collecting  and  destroying  before 
they  have  time  t©  recover.  In  digging  over  the  ground 
this  winter,  scatter  over  it,  as  the  digging  proceeds,  a 
liberal  sprinkling  of  lime  and  soot,  and  again,  when 
preparing  the  ground  for  a  crop  in  spring,  fork  into  it  a 
light  dressing  of  quicklime.  Lime  is  an  excellent  manure 
to  apply  to  peaty  soil,  and  will  at  the  same  time,  we 
hope,  rid  your  soil  of  any  wireworms  left. 

APum  Lilies  diseased  (E.  Edge).~A.  good  deal 
of  attention  has  of  late  years  been  directed  to  a  disease 
which  has  affected  the  Arum  Lily,  and  whose  ravages  seem 
to  be  on  the  increase.  Various  causes  have  been  assigned 
for  the  leaves  going  off  as  yours  have  done,  but  they  do 
not  seem  very  conclusive.  Those  planted  out  during  the 
summer  appear  more  liable  to  it  than  those  grown  in  pots, 
dried  off  in  the  summer,  shaken  quite  clear  of  the  old  soil 
and  repotted  towards  the  end  of  July  or  in  early  August. 
The  hardier  the  plants  are  grown,  the  less  liable  they  are 
to  this  disease,  which  may,  as  contended  by  some,  have 
had  its  origin  in  a  course  of  high  feeding,  leaving  the  walls 
of  the  cells  in  a  debilitated  condition,  and,  therefore, 
prone  to  decay.  A  good  antidote  at  this  season  is  a  free 
circulation  of  air  and  plenty  of  light. 

Soil  fOP  examination  {Beginner).— Yovlt  soil 
appears  to  be  dusty  and  light,  and  therefore  wanting  in 
what  is  termed  body  and  weight.  To  make  this  want 
good  we  would  advise  you  to  trench  the  ground  2^  feet 
deep  and  add  the  following  ingredients  to  every  40  square 
yards  :  One  ton  of  heavy  marly  soil,  one  ton  of  good  rotten 
farmyard  manure,  Icwt.  of  lime  and  201b.  of  bone-meal. 
You  may  consider  this  too  expensive  an  application,  but 
you  may  rest  assured  that  the  good  effect  will  last  for 
years,  and  the  value  of  subsequent  crops  will  more  than 
recoup  you  for  the  extra  outlay.  Vou  can  apply  half  the 
above  quanlaties  now  if  you  prefer,  addhig  more  in  Che 
course  of  two  or  three  years'  time. 


JUN    ^     '