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GARDENING 


SOURED 


,3W 


H. 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


GARDENING    DIFFICULTIES    SOLVED 


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THE  MOUNTAIN  CLEMATIS  (CLEMATIS  MONTANA)  ON  A  COTTAGE 

IN  YORKSHIRE.      TO  PRUNE,  CUT  OUT  SOME   OF  THE  OLD   SHOOTS 

AS  SOON  AS  THE  FLOWERS  ARE  OVER. 


Gardening  Difficulties 

Solved.     Expert  Answers 
to    Amateurs'    Questions 


Edited  by 

H.    H.    THOMAS 

Author  of  "  Little  Gardens,"  "Sweet  Peas  and  How  to  Grow  Them, 
etc.  etc. 


WITH    NUMEROUS    ILLUSTRATIONS    FROM 
PHOTOGRAPHS    AND    SKETCHES 


GASSELL  AND  COMPANY,  LTD. 

London,  New  York,  Toronto  and  Melbourne 
1910 


ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED 


PREFACE 

IT  is  commonly  acknowledged  that  the  Questions  and  Answers 
columns  of  a  gardening  paper  contain  information  that  is  in- 
valuable to  its  readers  generally.  The  questions  are  asked  by 
amateurs  and  answered  by  experts.  The  replies  are  useful 
not  only  to  the  actual  inquirers  but  to  all  amateurs,  for  the 
trials  and  troubles  of  one  inexperienced  gardener  are  very 
similar  to  those  of  another.  Thus  the  suggestion  that  a  care- 
ful selection  of  Questions  and  Answers  from  the  columns  of 
THE  GARDENER  would  be  welcomed  in  book  form  was  not 
made  without  good  grounds.  This  suggestion  prompted  the 
preparation  of  "Gardening  Difficulties  Solved." 

The  information  given  in  the  following  pages  is  practical 
and  to  the  point,  and,  it  is  hoped,  will  meet  all  ordinary 
difficulties  that  confront  the  possessor  of  a  garden.  The 
questions  have  actually  been  asked  by  amateurs,  so  that  the 
troubles  they  voice  are  real.  Since  conditions  of  climate 
influence  gardening  work  to  a  considerable  degree,  the  district 
from  which  each  question  was  sent  is  indicated. 

H.  H.  T. 

January,  1910. 


M358811 


The  Finest  Blooms  in  the  World 

TO  those  who  have  pride  in  a  beautiful  garden  the  Sweet  Pea 
needs  no  introduction,  but  to  those  who  would  avoid  dis- 
appointment I  give  a  word  of  advice.  Be  careful  in  the  selection 
of  seeds.  Last  year's  crop  was  not  over  plentiful,  and  there  are 
sure  to  be  placed  upon  the  market  seeds  that  are  absolutely  value- 
less. My  reputation  for  supplying  prize  producing  Sweet  Pea 
seeds  is  the  safest  guarantee  you  have.  If  I  cannot  supply  you 
with  the  best  you  can  have  none. 

Genuine  EcKford  Seeds  can  only  be  obtained  from  WEM 
The  Trade  are  not  Supplied 

Special     1910     Collections 


Villa  (B)  Collection. 

24  splendid  varieties, 

suitable  for  exhibition, 
50  seeds  of  each    5/6 

Villa  (C)  Collection. 

12  splendid  varieties, 

suitable  for  exhibition, 
50  seeds  of  each    2/9 

Villa  (E)  Collection. 

12     extra      varieties, 

suitable  for  exhibition, 
25  seeds  of  each    1/6 

A  specially  written  booklet  on  Sweet  Pea.  Growing  with  every  Order, 

Send  to  \VEM  to  ensure  satisfaction. 

EcKford's  Culinary  Peas  also  lead;  a  trial  4  pints  for  complete  succession, 
4s.  post  free. 

A  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  FOR  6/- 

ECKFORD'S  IDEAL  COLLECTION  OF  VEGETABLE  SEEDS 

The  quantities  in  this  collection  are  sufficient  for  ordinary  gardens,  allotments, 
etc.,  and  contain  the  following  :  Four  half-pints  of  Eckford's  pedigree  Culinary  Peas 
for  succession  ;  half-pints  each  of  Broad  Beans,  Dwarf  French  Beans,  and  Scarlet 
Runners  ;  and  liberal  packets  of  the  following  small  seeds  :  Beet,  Borecole,  Broccoli 
(three  varieties — early,  medium,  and  late),  Brussels  Sprouts,  Early  Cabbage,  Pickling 
Cabbage,  Savoy,  Carrot,  Early  Cauliflower,  Celery,  Cress,  Ridge  Cucumber,  Lettuce 
(two  varieties),  Mustard,  Onions  (two  varieties),  Parsley,  Parsnip,  Radish,  Tomato 
(garden),  Turnip  and  Vegetable  Marrow.  The  above  are  all  excellent 
Kinds— fine  for  exhibition.  Sent  carriage  paid  for  6/-,  cash  with  order.  ^  If 
pints  of  Peas  and  Beans  are  required  instead  of  half-pints,  the  price  of  the  Collection 
will  be  8/6,  carriage  paid.  A  specially  written  booklet  on  Vegetable  Culture  for  the 
Amateur  is  given  free  with  every  order. 

•¥3^t»  "WSi  'W^  Send  a  postcard  to-day  for  large  illustrated  and  coloured  catalogue.  It  gives  full 
JK7  MT**MZ4M^4»  particulars  of  all  novelties  in  Sweet  Peas  for  1910,  and  contains  full  list  of  all  flower 
and  vegetable  seeds. 

HENRY  ECKFORD,  F.R  H.S.  (Dept.  i:>4), 
WEM,  SHROPSHIRE 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


1.  The  Beginner's  Guide  to  Rose  Growing  i 

2.  Carnations  in  Winter  and  Summer 39 

3.  Sweet  Pea  Difficulties  Made  Clear    .        .        .        .        .48 

4.  Flower  Garden  Trials  and  Troubles           .        .        .        .  54 

5.  The  Greenhouse  Gay  .     ,  .,   -  •;-•      .        /       .  •  (  79 

6.  All  about  Chrysanthemums        .      ; .'       .        .        .        .  95 

7.  Failures  with  Bulbous  Flowers— How  to  Avoid  Them    .  103 

8.  Grape  Growing  in  Greenhouses HO 

9.  Fruit  Growing  Problems  Solved        .                .        .  121 

10.  Trees  and  Shrubs        .        .        .        .....-.•  140 

11.  Home  Grown  Vegetables    .        .       -.       ..        .        .  149 
INDEX          .......  158 


SOLVE  YOUR 

GARDEN     DIFFICULTIES 

BY    USING 

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Full  directions  for  use  are  included  in  the  HORTICULTURAL 
^WONDERBOOK 

Clap's  Successful  Gardening 

4th  Edition  ;  276  pages  ;  bound  in  cloth  ;  well  illustrated.  Full  of 
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STRATFORD,  LONDON. 


Face  First  Matter] 


GARDENING     DIFFICULTIES 
SOLVED 

CHAPTER   I 
The  Beginner's  Guide  to   Rose  Growing 

Time   to    Plant    Roses 

Q.  When  should  Roses  be  planted?  I  have  been  advised  that 
various  times  are  the  best,  and  should  be  glad  to  know  definitely.— 
E.  S.,  Bucks. 

A.  The  best  time  is  during  the  last  week  in  October  and  the  first 
two  weeks  in  November.  If,  however,  the  ground  is  very  wet  the 
Roses  should  not  be  planted  but  laid  in  a  shallow  trench,  the  roots 
being  well  covered  with  soil.  This  is  commonly  spoken  of  as 
"laying  in"  or  "heeling  in."  In  such  circumstances  the  Roses  are 
planted  when  the  soil  is  dry  enough  to  be  dug  without  sticking 
together  in  big  lumps.  Roses  may  be  planted  from  the  end  of 
October  until  the  end  of  March,  or  in  northern  counties  until  the 
middle  of  April.  It  is  better  to  plant  later  in  ground  that  is  in 
suitable  condition  than  to  plant  early  in  ground  that  is  saturated. 
If  Roses  in  pots  are  bought  they  may  be  planted  at  any  time  up  to 
June,  for  there  is  no  need  to  disturb  the  roots  to  any  appreciable 
extent.  They  are,  however,  more  expensive  than  Roses  lifted  from 
the  open  ground. 

How    to    Plant 

Q.  How  shall  I  proceed  to  plant  Roses  1  Is  it  necessary  to  use 
manure  at  planting  time  ? — J.  K.  L.,  Romford. 

A.  The  chief  thing  to  do  is  to  dig  the  ground  at  least  2  feet  deep. 
Roses  are  not  successful  in  badly  tilled  ground.  Well  rotted  farm- 
yard manure  is  the  best  stuff  to  dig  in  the  Rose  beds  before  planting, 
and  it  should  be  mixed  in  the  lower  12  inches,  so  as  not  to  be  in 
direct  contact  with  the  roots  at  first.  If  this  cannot  be  had,  basic 
slag,  applied  at  the  rate  of  8  oz.  per  square  yard,  may  be  used.  It  is 
best  to  prepare  the  ground  two  or  three  weeks  before  the  Roses  are 

B 


2        GARDENING   DIFFICULTIES    SOLVED 

put  in,  so  that  it  may  settle  down  to  its  normal  level.  Put  in  the 
Roses  so  that  the  junction  of  stock  and  scion  is  covered  with  1  inch 
of  soil. 

It  is  most  important  (a)  to  cut  off  all  bruised  and  broken  ends,  (I)  to 
spread  out  the  roots  to  their  full  extent,  (c)  to  work  the  soil  well 
amongst  them,  and  (d)  to  make  the  soil  quite  firm  by  treading.  Do 
not  put  all  the  soil  in  and  then  make  firm,  but  tread  down  each 
spadeful  as  it  is  put  in.  The  uppermost  roots  of  standard  and 
climbing  Roses  should  be  about  2  inches  below  the  surface  ;  the 
stake  is  put  in  before  the  soil.  It  is  of  great  importance  to  make 
standards  firm  and  to  secure  them  to  a  stake  or  other  support. 
Otherwise  they  get  blown  about  and  loosened. 

Replanting    Roses 

Q.  I  am  desirous  of  replanting  some  Rose  trees  in  a  fresh  position 
this  year.  The  trees  have  borne  a  very  good  supply  of  blooms  and 
appear  to  be  strong.  When  would  be  the  best  time  to  undertake 
this  ?  and  should  the  trees  be  pruned  before  or  after  they  have  been 
transplanted  ? — Unimus,  Surrey. 

A.  The  best  time  to  undertake  the  work  of  replanting  your  Roses 
would  be  in  the  latter  part  of  October  or  early  November.  As  you 
dig  up  the  trees,  cut  back  the  roots  a  few  inches  with  a  sharp  knife, 
and  look  well  for  suckers  of  the  wild  stock  on  which  they  are  budded. 
If  any  are  seen,  cut  them  off  at  the  point  of  origin.  The  growths 
should  be  cut  back  to  about  15  or  18  inches  from  the  base.  Dip  the 
roots  at  once  in  some  thin  mud,  and  cover  them  with  soil  in  a  shady 
place  until  you  are  prepared  to  replant.  Choose  fine  weather  for  the 
replanting.  The  plants  will  take  no  harm  heeled  in  for  a  week  or 
two  provided  the  soil  is  well  trodden  about  their  roots. 

Planting  Sweet  Briar  for  Hedge 

Q.  Will  you  advise  me  as  to  the  distance  apart  at  which  I  should 
plant  Sweet  Briar  Roses  to  form  a  hedge  1  Also  whether  the  Pen- 
zance  Briars  are  as  sweet  smelling  as  the  Common  Sweet  Briar  ?— 
A.  0.  C.,  Altrincham. 

A .  If  you  are  planting  a  single  row,  a  distance  of  about  2  feet 
should  be  allowed  between  the  plants  of  common  Sweet  Briars,  and 
2 \  feet  for  Penzance  Briars.  If  a  wide  hedge  is  desired  then  plant  a 
double  row  thus  .  •  .  •  ,  the  plants  18  inches  apart.  The  Penzance 
Priars  are  very  sweet  in  foliage,  but  not  quite  equal  to  the  common 
Sweet  Briar,  They  are,  however,  most  lovely  when,  in  bloom, 


Photo.  :  W.  J.  Vasey,  Abingdon. 

A    GATHERING    OF    RED    AND    YELLOW    ROSES. 


GARDENING    DIFFICULTIES    SOLVED 


Pruning    Hybrid    Perpetual   Roses 

Q.  I  have  a  collection  of  Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses,  but  the  pruning 
has  been  neglected.    Can  you  advise  ?— E.  J.,  Hitchin. 

A.  These  are  easily  divided  into  three  sections  representative  of 

their  vigour  of 
growth,  namely 
weak  (e.g.  A.  K. 
Williams) ;  mod- 
erate (e.g.  Mrs. 
John  Laing); 
vigorous  (e.g. 
Clio).  They 
should  be  pruned 
according  to  their 
growth  —  the 
stronger  the 
shoots  are,  the 
less  severe  prun- 
ing they  need. 
Pruning  encour- 
ages growth,  so 
that  to  cut  back 
a  vigorous  shoot 
hard  results  in 
the  production 
of  three  or  four 
equally  strong 
growths  with 
fewer  flowers. 
Broadly  speak- 
ing, the  vigorous 
sorts  are  cut 
back  to  within  9 
inches  or  1  foot 
of  the  base  of  -the  previous  year's  growth.  Those  of  moderate 
growth  may  be  cut  back  to  within  6  inches,  and  the  weak  growers 
to  within  2  to  4  inches  of  the  base  of  the  previous  summer's  growth. 

Pruning   Hybrid   Tea    Roses 

Q.  How  far  back  should  I  cut  my  Hybrid  Tea  Roses  at  pruning 'I 
—X  Y.  Z.,  Henley. 


BUSH    OF    HYBRID    TEA*  ROSE    BEFORE 
PRUNING. 


BEGINNER'S    GUIDE   TO    ROSE    GROWING   5 

A.  These  are  essentially  the  Roses  for  the  garden,  especially  for 
the  town  and  suburban  garden.    They  should  only  be  moderately 
pruned.    The  strong  growths  may  be  left   1  foot  to  18  inches  in 
length,  or  even  more  if  large  bushes  are  desirable.    Shorten  the  side 
or  lateral  growths 
to  within  2  to  3 
inches    of    the 
main  shoots.  The 
weak     growing 
Hybrid  Teas  re- 
quire more  severe 
pruning  ;  Liberty 
and  Mildred 
Grant  are  exam- 
ples. 

Pruning  Tea 
and  China 
Roses 

Q.  I  am  in 
doubt  as  to  the 
proper  method  of 
pruning  Tea  and 
China  Roses. 
Please  advise. — 
H.  W.,  Sussex. 

A.  These  Roses 
often  suffer  rather 
severely  from 
frost  except  where 
well  protected  or       111 
in   sheltered   po-         THE  SAME  PLANT  AS  IT  APPEARS  AFTER 
sitions.   After  the  PRUNING. 

injured       shoots 

have  been  cut  away  from  the  plants,  these  usually  need  little  further 
pruning  beyond  removing  weak  growth  near  the  base,  and  perhaps 
shortening  a  shoot  or  two  to  preserve  the  balance  of  the  bushes. 
When  the  plants. have  been  well  protected,  the  strong  growing  sorts 
may  be  cut  back  to  within  9  inches  or  1  foot  of  the  old  wood,  weak 
growers  to  within  2  to  4  inches.  Often  the  frost  does  all  the  pruning 
that  is  needed. 


6         GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 


TEA  ROSE  BEFORE  PRUNING. 


THE  SAME  PLANT  AFTER  PRUNING. 


Pruning  Newly 
Planted  Roses 

Q.  Will  you 
kindly  say  how 
and  when  I  should 
prune  climbing 
Roses  planted  in 
November  1  —  P. 
M.,  Basing  stoke. 

A.  There  are 
two  courses  open 
to  you  in  pruning 
your  climbing 
Roses  which  were 
planted  in  au- 
tumn. The  third 
week  in  March 
you  can  shorten 
them  either  a  little 
or  much.  Leav- 
ing the  shoots 
nearly  full  length 
or  half  length  you 
will  doubtless  get 
a  certain  number 
of  blooms  the  first 
summer,  but  the 
plants  will  make 
unsatisfa  ctory 
growth.  If  you 
cut  down  all  the 
shoots  on  each 
plant  to  within  3 
or  4  inches  of  the 
ground  you  will 
get  no  flowers 
from  them  the 
first  year  (or  prac- 
tically none),  but 
they  will  make 
shoots  6  feet  and 


8 


GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 


more  in  length.  These  shoots  will  be  vigorous  and  well  ripened, 
will  bloom  profusely  the  next  year,  and  will  lay  the  foundation  of  a 
good  plant. 

Pruning    Rambling    Roses 

Q.  I  have  just  (November)  received  some  Rambler  Roses  from  a 
nurseryman  ;  they  all  have  four  or  five  branches  or  shoots  ranging 
from  3  to  5  feet  long.  After  planting,  should  these  be  cut  off,  or  left 


IN  PRUNING  ROSES  WEAK 
AND  DEAD  WOOD  AS  AT  A 
IS  FIRST  CUT  OUT.  THE  RE- 
MAINING SHOOTS  ARE  THEN 
PRUNED  AS  SHOWN  AT  B. 


THINNING  OUT  A  ROSE  THAT 
IS  CROWDED  WITH  WEAK 
AND  USELESS  SHOOTS.  DO 
NOT  PRUNE  AT  B,  BUT  CUT 
BACK  TO  A. 


for  the  winter  and  pruned  in  the  spring  1  and  when  pruning,  how 
much  should  be  removed  ?  The  names  of  the  sorts  are  Lady 
Gay,  Crimson  Rambler,  and  Longworth  Rambler.  —  A.  B.  P., 
Southampton. 

A.  If  you  have  planted  the  Ramblers  against  some  support,  it 
will  not  be  advisable  to  prune  them  until  spring  ;  then  cut  back  to 
within  3  or  4  inches  of  the  ground.  If  planted  out  as  free  bushes 
cut  back  now  to  prevent  swaying  about  in  gales.  Climbing  and 
rambling  Roses  that  are  established  are  pruned  as  soon  as  the 


BEGINNER'S   GUIDE  TO   ROSE   GROWING     9 


flowers  are  over.  Pruning  takes  the  form  of  cutting  out  some  of 
the  oldest  growths — those  that  have  bloomed.  The  finest  flowers 
are  produced  on  one  year  old  shoots,  i.e.  those  of  the  previous 
summer's  growth. 

Pruning  Crimson  Rambler  Rose 

Q.  My  plants  of  this  Rose  have  made  rampant  growth.  How  do 
I  prune  them,  and  when  1 — Amateur,  Feltham. 

A.  It  is  best  to  thin  out  the  old  flowering  growths  as  soon  as 
they  have  finished  flowering,  and  in  the  following  March  to  shorten 


SHOWING       HOW       A       NEWLY 

PLANTED  BUSH  ROSE  IS  HARD 

PRUNED. 


THE  SKETCH  B 
SHOWS  HOW  IT 
IS  PRUNED,  AND 
C  IND  I C  A  T  E  S 
THE  DIRECTION 
NEW  SHOOTS 
WILL  TAKE. 

A 

A      STRONG      YOUNG      HYBRID 

PERPETUAL    ROSE     IS     SHOWN 

AT  A. 


the  side  growths.  As  your  plant  has  made  very  little  progress  this 
season,  all  that  can  be  recommended  in  the  way  of  pruning  is  to  cut 
clean  to  the  base  all  thin,  weakly  growths,  retaining  the  best.  This 
should  be  done  now  (September). 

Pruning  Marechal  Kiel  Rose 

Q.  A  Marechal  Niel  Rose  in  my  greenhouse  has  made  vigorous 
shoots  during  the  summer.  How  should  these  be  pruned,  and  when  1 
— Ignorant,  Faversham. 


BEGINNER'S  GUIDE  TO  ROSE  GROWING  11 

A.  The  strong  healthy  growth  made  during  the  summer  should 
not  be  pruned  very  much,  if  at  all,  for  Marechal  Niel  produces  its 
flowers  on  the  wood  made  the  previous  year.  Hence  to  cut  away 
this  growth  would  mean  the  loss  of  many  flowers  in  the  coming 
season.  The  Rose  should  be  well  thinned  of  all  weak  shoots  in 
winter,  whether  new  or  old,  but  the  best  of  the  past  season's  shoots 
should  be  retained  and  left  as  long  as  possible.  Marechal  Niel  is 
greatly  benefited  by  summer  pruning,  say  about  the  end  of  July  or 
as  soon  as  summer  flowering  is  over.  This  consists  of  cutting  back 
those  shoots  which  have  flowered  to  within  1  foot  or  so  of  their  base. 
Young  growths  then  develop,  and  it  is  these  which,  when  well 
ripened,  make  the  best  flowering  wood  for  the  next  season. 

Roses    That    do    not    Droop 

Q.  Do  any  of  the  following  Roses  droop  their  heads  when  in 
bloom  ?  I  have  a  Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi,  which  droops  owing 
to  the  weight  of  the  bloom,  and  I  do  not  want  any  like  that.  Are 
the  following  as  good  as  I  can  get  in  their  respective  colours? 
Capt.  Hayward,  Madame  Ravary,  General  McArthur,  Betty,  Dean 
Hole,  Madame  A.  Chatenay,  Pharisaer,  Prince  de  Bulgarie. — Novice, 
Battersea. 

A.  A  few  sorts  that  come  nearly  to  your  standard  of  perfection 
are  Pharisaer,  Princesse  Mertchersky,  Dean  Hole,  Lady  Battersea,  and 
Joseph  Hill.  Most  of  the  varieties  you  name  carry  their  blossoms 
erect,  save  Betty.  This  Rose  is  inclined  to  droop  somewhat,  but  not 
to  any  extent. 

Rose  for  North  Wall 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  what  Rose  I  can  plant  on  a  wall  with  a  cold 
north  exposure  1  It  gets  very  little  sun  even  in  summer.  Would  a 
Gloire  de  Dijon  dot— Fir  Tree,  N.B. 

A .  You  might  plant  any  of  the  following  :  Gloire  de  Dijon 
(creamy  yellow),  Reine  Marie  Henriette  (red),  Felicite  Perpetue 
(white),  Bouquet  d'Or  (yellow  shades). 

Roses  for  Shady  Wall   10  Feet  High 

Q.  I  have  a  wall  10  feet  high  which  gets  the  sun  about  three 
hours  in  the  afternoon.  What  Rose  can  I  plant  here  ?  I  want  one 
of  good  form  and  with  high,  pointed  centre  if  possible,  and,  above 
all,  free  and  continuous  blooming.  I  am  not  particular  as  to  colour, 
but  should  prefer  a  yellow.  Bear  in  mind  mine  is  a  town  garden. 
I  also  want  to  get  five  pillar  Roses  to  give  a  succession  of  bloom, 


12       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

assorted  colours  and  of  good  form.  I  already  have  Gloire  de  Dijon, 
Gruss  an  Teplitz,  Lady  Gay,  and  Crimson  Rambler.  Also  a  good 
white  Rose.  Would  Madame  A.  Carriere  suit  me  in  this  case  ?  I 
should  like  to  know  why  it  is  not  advisable  to  buy  bundles  of  Roses 
at  auction  sales. — Anxious,  Fulham. 

A.  The  variety  of  Rose  that  you  would  like  for  the  10-feet  wall 
would  be  Kaiserin  Friedrich  or  Bouquet  d'Or.  Either  should  grow 
in  the  somewhat  shaded  aspect,  if  you  prepare  a  good  deep  hole  for 
the  roots.  Five  good  pillar  Roses  would  be  Climbing  Caroline 
Testout,  Ards  Rover,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  J.B.  Clark,  Frangois  Crousse. 
Madame  A.  Carriere  would  be  a  splendid  Rose  for  your  proposed 
trellis.  It  is  not  specially  beautiful  in  form,  but  is  such  a  good 
grower  that  we  could  not  recommend  a  better.  A  more  perfect 
bloom  would  be  Climbing  K.  A.  Victoria,  and  we  believe  it  would 
grow  with  you.  Do  not  buy  pot  plants,  but  get  good  specimens 
from  the  open  ground.  They  could  be  obtained  for  the  price  you 
name,  Is.  6d.  each.  We  should- not  advise  you  to  buy  Roses  at 
auction  sales  for  the  simple  reason  that  you  have  to  take  what  is 
given  you,  and  usually  they  are  the  leavings  after  the  season's  sales. 
Moreover,  the  plants  are  allowed  to  stand  about  and  the  roots 
become  parched  up. 

Six  Roses  for  Exhibition 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  the  names  of  six  Rose  varieties  for  showing 
purposes  1 — W.  P.,  Nairn. 

A.  You  will  find  the  following  good,  reliable  sorts  to  grow.  Dean 
Hole,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant, 
Ulrich  Brunner,  Madame  Jules  Gravereaux.  The  latter  is  a  very 
strong  grower,  but  prune  it  down  to  the  ground  each  year,  and  it  will 
produce  some  enormous  blooms. 

Roses  for  Hedge 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  plant  a  Rose  hedge,  and  would  be  glad  if  you 
would  tell  me  which  of  the  following  would  be  the  most  suitable.  The 
hedge  would  be  about  30  feet  long,  and  unfortunately  much  exposed 
to  north-west  wind.  Rosa  rugosa,  alba,  rubra,  Conrad  F.  Meyer, 
common  Sweet  Briar.  Please  suggest  any  more  suitable,  and  give 
advice  as  to  distance  apart  to  plant,  and  pruning. — A.  $.,  Blackburn. 

A.  If  you  desire  a  tall  hedge,  you  could  not  do  better  than  plant 
Conrad  F.  Meyer  or  the  charming  Penzance  Briar  Anne  of  Geierstein, 
which  has  rich  crimson  blossoms.  But,  possibly,  as  the  hedge  would 


A  PILLAR  OP  ROSE  DOROTHY  PERKINS.  THIS  IS  A  SPLENDID 
ROSE  FOR  BEGINNERS.  HERE  IS  ITS  CULTIVATION  IN  A  NUT- 
SHELL. PLANT  IN  WELL  DUG  SOIL  IN  NOVEMBER  ;  CUT  DOWN 
TO  WITHIN  6  INCHES  OF  BASE  IN  MARCH.  IN  SUCCEEDING 
YEARS  CUT  OUT  A  FEW  OF  THE  OLDER  GROWTHS  AS  SOON 
AS  THEY  HAVE  BLOOMED, 


14       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

be  much  exposed  to  west  winds,  you  would  prefer  a  hedge  growing 
to  about  5  feet  high.  This  could  be  secured  with  Rosa  rugosa,  the 
red  and  white  forms,  and  also  mingled  with  them  Blanc  double  de 
Courbet  and  Mrs.  A.  Waterer.  The  common  Sweet  Briar  is  deli- 
ciously  fragrant,  but  you  obtain  little  or  no  blossom.  A  Rose  that 
makes  a  really  beautiful  and  continuous  flowering  hedge  is  Gruss  an 
Teplitz,  a  rich  scarlet  crimson  sort  and  very  sweet.  If  you  cared  to 
do  so,  you  could  blend  a  white  Rose  with  it,  e.g.  Madame  Alfred 
Carriere.  The  two  are  very  free  and  continuous  in  their  blossoming. 
Plant  from  2  to  3  feet  apart.  In  March  cut  the  plants  back  to  about 
3  feet  from  the  ground.  If  not  so  tall  as  this,  do  not  prune  at  all. 
The  second  year  cut  down  to  ground  one  or  more  of  the  oldest 
growths,  and  repeat  this  every  spring  ;  then  you  ensure  a  good  base. 
Just  a  trim  over  will  suffice  for  the  other  growths.  Be  careful  to 
plant  in  well  trenched  soil  in  November. 

Preparing  Briar  Stocks 

Q.  What  will  be  the  best  mode  of  procedure  in  order  to  have  a 
stock  of  rooted  Briars  for  budding  Roses  on  in  summer  —  Tea 
Roses  to  be  grown  in  pots  1  Residing  in  a  rural  district,  I  have 
access  to  plenty  of  wild  Briars  to  obtain  cuttings.  How  shall  I  take 
them,  and  how  must  they  be  treated  ?— E.  A.  W.,  Somerset. 

A.  Strong  cuttings  of  the  common  Briar  may  be  taken  any  time 
during  September  and  October.  Have  them  9  inches  long,  and 
select  only  strong,  well  ripened  wood ;  cut  close  to  a  joint  at  the 
bottom,  and  remove  all  the  buds  except  three  at  the  top.  Plant  in 
rows  2  feet  apart  and  6  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  burying  the  cuttings 
half  their  length  or  more  in  the  ground,  and  press  the  soil  very  firmly 
about  them.  A  mulch  of  leaf  mould  or  old  manure  between  the 
rows  will  be  useful.  They  will  hardly  be  strong  enough  for  budding 
the  next  summer,  unless  strong  cuttings  are  taken  and  they  are  watered 
in  dry  weather.  The  usual  plan  is  to  leave  the  cuttings  one  year  to 
get  well  rooted.  Transplant  at  wider  intervals  in  autumn,  and  bud 
the  next  summer.  There  is  not  much  gained  by  budding  before  the 
stocks  are  well  rooted  and  strong. 

Selection    of   Standard   Roses 

Q.  Will  you  give  a  selection  of  eight  Roses  for  standards,  two 
pink,  two  red,  two  white,  one  yellow,  and  one  other  ?  Wanted  for 
garden  decoration,  good  form,  and  sweet  scented.  Have  already  got 
The  Bride,  Joseph  Hill,  Madame  Abel  Chatenay,  Hugh  Dickson, 


16       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Ulrich  Brunner,  Viscountess  Folkestone,  La  France,  and  General 
Jacqueminot.  Would  November  planting  be  suitable  for  this 
district  1—S.  B.,  London,  S.E. 

A.  The  following  have  a  good  vigorous  habit  of  growth,  and  are 
fragrant :  Pink,  Madame  Jules  Grolez,  Gustav  Grunerwald  ;  red, 
Commandant  Felix  Faure,  Charles  Lefebvre  ;  blush  white,  Augustine 
Guinoisseau,  Clio  ;  yellow,  Madame  Ravary  ;  and  Pharisaer,  a  good 
blush  to  make  the  eight.  Plant  in  November. 

Best  Cream   and  Best  Yellow  Roses  as   Half   Standards 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  to  know  of  the  best  ten  cream  and  yellow 
Roses  to  grow  as  half  standards  out  of  the  following  selection  : 
Gloire  Lyonnaise,  Marie  van  Houtte,  Florence  Pemberton,  Madame 
Falcot,  Francisca  Kriiger,  Madame  Jules  Gravereaux,  Madame 
Hoste,  Madame  Ravary,  Rubens,  Madame  Fernet  Ducher,  Madame 
Jean  Dupuy,  Madame  Berard,  Dean  Hole,  Hon.  Edith  Gilford, 
Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting,  White  Maman  Cochet. — C.  S.  H.  <S'., 
Shrewsbury. 

A.  Of  the  list  submitted  we  would  recommend  the  following  : 
Gloire  Lyonnaise,  Marie  van  Houtte,  Madame  Falcot,  Florence 
Pemberton,  Madame  Jules  Gravereaux,  Madame  Hoste,  Madame 
Ravary,  Madame  Pernet  Ducher,  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting, 
White  Maman  Cochet. 

Twelve   Roses   for    Cold    Garden 

Q.  Would  you  give  me  the  names  of  a  dozen  Roses,  hardy  and 
strong,  for  a  cold  garden  1  The  wind  is  keen.  I  have  tried  several 
dozen  and  find  many  weak  ones  fail. — G.  Bates,  Derbyshire. 

A.  The  following  varieties  should  grow  well  if  you  have  the  soil 
deeply  dug :  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Madame  G.  Bruant,  Ulrich  Brunner, 
Caroline  Testout,  H.  Schultheis,  John  Hopper,  Boule  de  Neige, 
Margaret  Dickson,  Dr.  Andry,  Gruss  an  Teplitz,  Madame  I.  Periere, 
Augustine  Guinoisseau. 

Crimson    Rose    for    Shady    Spot 

Q.  Kindly  give  me  the  name  of  any  crimson  Rose  other  than 
Crimson  Rambler  that  will  grow  in  rather  a  shady  place  and  quickly 
cover  a  fence  8  feet  high. — Bourne  End. 

A .  Either  Hiawatha  or  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg  would  be  the 
sort  to  plant  for  quick  growth.  The  first  named  is  perhaps  the  best 
and  its  lovely  clusters  of  single  flowers  are  always  much  admired, 


ROSE  LADY  GAY  IN  A  GARDEN  IN  THE  SUBURBS. 

THE  SAME  CULTURAL  TREATMENT  AS  OUTLINED  ON 

PAGE  13  IS  APPLICABLE. 


IS       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Roses  for  Suburban  Garden 

Q.  My  garden  is  in  a  London  suburb.  I  am  anxious  to  take  up 
Rose  growing.  Will  you  tell  me  how  to  prepare  the  ground,  and 
give  list  of  suitable  varieties  ? — Baling. 

A.  The  trenching  or  double  digging  is  carried  out  as  follows  in 
October  :  Mark  out  the  soil  to  be  trenched  in  1-yard  lengths,  or  if 
the  borders  are  narrow,  or  the  plot  of  ground  a  circular  bed,  the 
principle  will  apply,  that  is,  to  move  the  top  soil  to  the  depth  of  the 
spade,  and  with  a  five  tined  fork  well  fork  up  the  lower  soil  to  the 
depth  of  the  fork.  This  soil  is  not  brought  to  the  surface,  but  kept 
where  it  is.  All  that  is  done  is  to  mix  some  good  manure  with  it. 
If  you  cannot  procure  farmyard  or  other  good  manure,  then  use  basic 
slag  at  the  rate  of  8  oz.  to  1  square  yard.  This  material  can  be  ob- 
tained of  any  horticultural  sundriesman.  Having  put  the  lower  soil 
right,  add  some  bone  meal  to  the  top  soil  at  the  rate  of  about  3  Ib. 
to  a  wheelbarrowful  of  soil.  It  will  be  all  the  better  if  the  soil  is 
allowed  to  settle  down  before  planting,  which  should  be  done,  if 
possible,  by  the  middle  of  November.  Be  careful  to  choose  fine 
weather  for  planting.  Trim  the  roots  fairly  hard  back  and  plant 
very  firmly,  treading  the  soil  about  them  as  tightly  as  possible,  but 
leave  the  surface  soil  loose.  A  few  good  sorts  to  commence  with  are 
Caroline  Testout,  Hugh  Dickson,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Gustav 
Grunerwald,  Lady  Ashtown,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Madame  Ravary, 
Prince  de  Bulgarie,  Madame  Jean  Dupuy,  General  McArthur, 
Joseph  Hill,  and  Viscountess  Folkestone.  If  you  have  a  spot  where 
you  could  grow  a  good  large  bush  plant  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  and  should 
you  desire  one  or  two  for  arches  or  trellis  we  recommend  Dorothy 
Perkins,  Tausendschon,  and  Hiawatha. 

Roses  for  Heavy  Clay  Soil 

Q.  What  would  you  suggest  as  the  best  six  or  eight  Roses 
suitable  for  a  rather  heavy  clay  soil?  I  prefer  H.T.'s  or  Teas  to 
H.P.'s,  but  would  act  as  you  suggest.  Can  you  also  tell  me  if  you 
would  recommend  J.  B.  Clark  as  a  good  garden  Rose  ?  If  not,  the 
nearest  H.T.  to  this  colour. — Phroso,  Herts. 

A.  Eight  good  Roses  for  your  garden  would  be  Caroline  Testout, 
Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Madame  Jean  Dupuy,  Madame  Jules  Grolez, 
Prince  de  Bulgarie,  Viscountess  Folkestone,  Marie  Van  Houtte, 
Laurent  Carle.  We  cannot  recommend  J.  B.  Clark  as  a  good  garden 
Rose,  although  splendid  at  times.  We  much  prefer  Hugh  Dickson. 
This  is  really  the  best  crimson  Rose  for  any  garden. 


20       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Roses  with  Long  Pointed   Blooms 

Q.  Would  you  be  good  enough  to  name  half  a  dozen  Hoses  for 
the  garden  that  produce  long,  pointed  blooms,  double,  and  of  good 
habit,  etc.  1—J.  L.,  Cardiff. 

A.  The  following  are  excellent  varieties  possessing  this  qualifica- 


BLOSSOMS  OF  THE  EXQUISITE  HYBRID  TEA  ROSE  BETTY,    SOFT 
SHADES    OF    ROSE    AND    YELLOW.      GOOD    IN    AUTUMN. 

tion.    Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Lady  Battersea,  Pharisaer,  Dean  Hole, 
Madame  Hoste,  White  Maman  Cochet. 

Sweet  Scented  Roses 

Q.  Please  give  the  names  of  any  Roses  similar  in  colour  to  or  better 
than  Madame  Abel  Chatenay,  and  sweetly  scented.  Also  the  names  of 
two  or  three  very  dark  Pioses  that  are  scented,  and  suitable  for 
growing  in  this  neighbourhood, — A.  Saunders,  Wimbledon, 


ROSE  CONRAD  P.  MEYER,  A  VERY  VIGOROUS  AND  VERY  THORNY 
JAPANESE  BRIAR  ROSE  WITH  LARGE  AND  FRAGRANT  PINK  BLOOMS. 
A  MAGNIFICENT  ROSE.  THRIVES  IN  HEAVY  SOIL  AND  PARTIAL 
SHADE.  CUT  OUT  A  FEW  OF  THE  OLDER  GROWTHS  IN  SEPTEMBER. 


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BEGINNER'S  GUIDE  TO  ROSE   GROWING  23 

A.  Few  if  any  Roses  can'compare  with  Madame  Abel  Chatenay  as 
an  all-round  variety,  but  we  can  recommend  the  following  as  being 
really  good  and  fragrant  :  Mrs.  David  Jardine,  Madame  Segond 
Weber,  Elizabeth  Barnes,  Betty,  Lyon  Rose.  The  following  very 
dark  Roses  are  scented  :  Charles  Lefebvre,  Abel  Carriere,  Jubilee, 
Louis  Van  Houtte,  Xavier  Olibo,  and  Pierre  Netting. 

Bright  Coloured  Roses 

Q.  Kindly  give  me  names  of  Roses— real  good  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
— of  the  beautiful,  full,  deep  colour  of  Duke  of  Wellington  and  A.  K. 
Williams.  I  do  not  want  bluish  reds  at  all— just  the  pure  deep  glow- 
ing colour  mentioned  above.  I  have  tried  many  of  the  so-called 
(catalogued)  crimson  and  deep  scarlet,  but  when  they  bloom  they  are 
often  disappointing.  Out  of  thirteen  varieties — which  I  hoped  from 
description  to  be  near  the  same  colour — only  the  above  two  pleased 
me.— F.  £.,  Bolton. 

A.  You  are  asking  for  Roses  that  do  not  exist.  We  could  name 
some  brilliant  colours,  but  they  have  no  special  beauty  of  form ;  indeed, 
some  are  very  thin.  We  do  not  know  how  you  can  find  fault  with 
such  a  superb  Rose  as  Charles  Lefebvre  or  General  Jacqueminot  or 
Duchess  of  Bedford.  Such  Roses  need  to  be  established  a  year  or 
two  to  see  them  in  their  real  beauty,  and  you  are  expecting  too 
much  the  first  season  after  planting.  A  few  sorts  that  we  think  will 
please  you  are  Commandant  Felix  Faure,  Comte  Raimbaud,  Hugh 
Dickson,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Duke  of  Teck,  Thomas  Mills,  and  from 
the  H.T.'s  Charles  J.  Grahame  and  General  McArthur.  Francois 
Crousse  and  Ards  Rover  are  also  two  brilliant  colours,  but  these  are 
very  vigorous,  although  they  may  be  grown  as  free  bushes. 

Hybrid  Tea  Roses  for  Planting  in  Masses  and  for  Show 

Q.  I  enclose  a  list  of  dwarf  H.T.  Roses  I  have  just  marked,  and 
should  be  glad  to  know  if  you  think  them  a  good  lot  for  bedding, 
and  also  if  suitable  for  local  show.  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Countess  of 
Derby,  Dean  Hole,  Earl  of  Warwick,  H.  Armjtage  Moore,  Joseph 
Hill,  Lady  Ashtown,  Laurent  Carle,  Madame  Abel  Chatenay, 
Madame  Melanie  Soupert,  Monsieur  Paul  Lede,  Mrs.  D.  McKee,  Mrs. 
Harold  Brocklebank,  Richmond,  W.  E.  Lippiatt,  William  Shean, 
Madame  Hector  Leuilliot  (climber),  Frau  Philip  Gedaldig.  Is  it 
possible  to  transplant  successfully  during  November,  Hybrid  Tea, 
Roses  (bush  and  standard)  budded  this  summer  on  cutting  Briar 
— E.  W.  W.,  London  Suburb. 


24       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

A.  Yes ;  these  may  be  transplanted  in  November,  and  they  will 
be  tolerably  successful,  but  we  do  not  advise  this  being  done  if  it  can 
possibly  be  avoided,  as  you  would  obtain  nothing  like  the  vigour 
from  the  buds  you  would  if  the  stocks  were  not  disturbed.  The  list 
you  give  is  a  very  good  one,  and  you  will  not  be  far  wrong  in  plant- 
ing the  varieties  named.  There  are  a  few  good  show  Roses  which 
you  might  add,  such  as  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Madame  Jules 
Gravereaux,  Florence  Pemberton,  Madame  Segond  Weber,  Lyon  Rose, 
Princess  Mertchersky,  and  Yvonne  Vacherot,  that  would  be 
immensely  useful  to  you  for  exhibition  purposes. 

Roses  for  Pergola 

Q.  I  have  just  put  up  a  pergola  in  my  garden  in  Hertfordshire, 
and  should  be  glad  to  know  of  a  good  selection  of  varieties  to  plant. 
I  want  chiefly  Roses  that  give  good  quality  blooms. — E.  W.  W. 

A.  The  selection  given  below,  when  established,  cannot  fail  to 
make  a  very  beautiful  feature  of  the  garden.  For  a  pergola  to  look 
really  well  it  is  necessary  that  there  should  be  a  certain  simultaneity 
of  flowering  of  the  various  sorts  planted.  As  you  wish  to  confine 
your  pergola  to  Roses  we  name  a  few  fast  growing  sorts  that  should 
be  planted  at  intervals,  say  of  about  8  yards.  For  east  side  the 
following  rapid  growers  are  recommended,  Dorothy  Perkins, 
Hiawatha,  Edmund  Proust,  White  Dorothy  Perkins,  Blush  Rambler, 
Delight.  For  the  west  side,  Felicite  Perpetue,  Mrs.  F.  W.  Flight, 
Crimson  Rambler,  Lady  Godiva,  Madame  Alfred  Carriere,  Minne- 
haha.  Plant  about  four  varieties  of  the  following  in  between  each 
set  of  two  fast  growers  in  the  order  named  herewith.  For  east  side, 
Waltham  Climber  No.  1,  Climbing  Caroline  Testout,  Monsieur  Desir, 
Climbing  La  France,  Aimee  Vibert,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Kaiserin 
Friedrich,  J.  B.  Clark,  Alister  Stella  Gray,  Climbing  Captain  Christy, 
Ulrich  Brunner,  Madame  Jules  Siegfried,  Reine  Marie  Henriette, 
Climbing  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Reve  d'Or,  Madame  Wagram,  Boule 
de  Neige,  Ella  Gordon.  On  the  west  side,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Gaston 
Chandon,  Climbing  K.  A.  Victoria,  Climbing  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant, 
Madame  I.  Periere,  Crepuscule,  Ards  Rover,  Nova  Zembla,  Madame 
Berard,  Francois  Crousse,  Climbing  Devoniensis,  Climbing  Pride  of 
WTaltham,  Zephirine  Drouhin,  Gloire  Lyonnaise,  Lady  Waterlow, 
Duchesse  dAuerstadt,  Hugh  Dickson,  Madame  Hector  Leuilliot,  Dr. 
Rouges,  Mrs.  Paul.  The  above  selection  is  made  primarily  with  the 
object  of  providing  a  glorious  show  at  one  time,  although  they  will 
give  Roses  throughout  a  long  period. 


BEGINNER'S  GUIDE  TO  ROSE  GROWING  25 

Six  Darkest  Roses 

Q.  Please  name  the  six  darkest  red  Roses  for  the  garden. —  W.  E., 
IHxhop  A  uckland. 

A.  The  following  are  good  reliable  sorts  :  Prince  C.  de  Rohan, 
Abel  Carriere,  Louis  Ricard,  Baron  de  Bonstetten,  W.  E.  Lippiatt, 
Charles  Lefebvre. 


ONE    OF     THE    NEWER    ROSES,    H.T.    MRS.     SOPHIA    NEATE, 
BLUSH,    ORANGE    ROSE    IN    CENTRE.      VERY   FINE    IN    BUD. 

Roses  for  North  Border 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  to  know  which  are  the  best  Roses  to  plant  on 
a  border  facing  north.— Deborah,  Berks. 

A.  Most  of  the  Rugosa  or  Japanese  Roses  would  grow  well  on 
this  border,  and  we  can  recommend  the  following :  Conrad  F. 
Meyer,  grown  as  a  pillar  Rose  ;  Blanc  double  de  Courbet,  Madame 


26       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Georges  Bruant,  Mercedes,  Hose  a  parfum  de  1'Hay,  Mrs.  Anthony 
Waterer,  Chedane  Guinoisseau,  and  the  single  pink  and  single  white 
Rugosa  for  their  lovely  and  showy  fruit.  The  Penzance  Briars  would 
do  well  in  this  border,  and  the  Hybrid  Briar  Una  would  be  a  beautiful 
object.  Some  of  the  Hybrid  Chinese  and  Hybrid  macrantha  Roses, 
such  as  Chenedale,  Charles  Lawson,  Paul  Ricart,  Lady  Sarah  Wilson, 
Mrs.  O.  G.  Orpen,  Lady  Curzon  would  be  fine,  but  let  them  be  grown 
as  pillar  Roses,  or  if  not,  give  them  plenty  of  space,  say  4  feet  each 
way,  so  that  they  develop  into  good  large  bushes.  The  following 
would  also  make  more  variety  :  Magna  Charta,  Heinrich  Schultheis, 
Boule  de  Neige,  Clio,  Madame  Eugene  Fremy,  Cheshunt  Hybrid, 
Gruss  an  Teplitz,  Pink  Rover,  Crimson  Globe  (Moss),  Celestial 
(Maiden's  Blush),  Madame  Hardy  (Damask). 

Fragrant  Climbing  Roses  for  House  Wall 

Q.  I  want  to  plant  a  good  climbing  Rose,  sweet  scented,  to  cover 
a  house  wall  that  faces  due  south.  The  forecourt  is  of  cement,  but  I 
have  a  hole  some  2  by  Ij  feet  already  made.  What  variety  do  you 
advise  1  Shall  I  plant  in  November,  and  how  shall  I  prepare  the 
soil  ?  Also,  I  want  a  few  quick  climbers,  sweet  smelling  if  possible, 
to  grow  on  poles  at  the  back  of  bed  15  feet  long  facing  due  south  ; 
what  shall  I  get  and  how  many  ?  I  also  want  a  few  Roses  to  plant 
on  a  lawn  facing  north ;  will  you  recommend  a  long  flowering  variety  ? 
— E.  W.  //.,  Forest  Gate. 

A.  In  such  a  district  as  Forest  Gate  you  require  a  good  vigorous 
variety,  and  as  you  desire  a  sweet  smelling  Rose  we  think  Gruss  an 
Teplitz  one  of  the  best  for  your  purpose.  This  is  scarlet.  If  you 
prefer  a  creamy  white,  then  plant  Madame  Alfred  Carriere.  Some 
good  quick  climbers  for  poles  would  be  Hiawatha,  Rene  Andre,  Blush 
Rambler,  Dorothy  Perkins,  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Noella  Nabonnand, 
Zephirine  Drouhin.  Some  good  perpetual  flowering  Roses  to  plant- 
on  lawn  facing  north  would  be  Hugh  Dickson,  Mrs.  John  Laing, 
Ulrich  Brunner,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Grace  Darling,  Gustav  Gruner, 
wald,  Madame  Jules  Grolez,  Commandant  Felix  Faure,  La  France, 
Augustine  Guinoisseau,  Charles  Lefebvre,  Prince  C.  de  Rohan, 
Senateur  Vaisse. 

Rambler  Rose  Dying   Off 

Q.  Would  you  tell  me  the  reason  for  a  Crimson  Rambler  dying 
off?  The  wood  is  going  yellow  and  the  leaves  go  yellow  also  and 
fall  off.  It  was  planted  in  clay  on  light  soil  against  the  root  of  an 


BEGINNER'S   GUIDE  TO   ROSE  GROWING  27 

old  dead  Pear  tree.    I  have  other  Ramblers  in  the  garden 'which  are 
doing  well.    I  enclose  one  or  two  leaves. — //.  H.  TV.,  Hornsey. 

A.  It  may  be  that  the  plant  has  cankered  at  the  junction  where 
it  was  budded,  but  we  think  most  probably  the  cause  could  be  traced 
to  its  roots  being  in  uncongenial  soil  of  insufficient  depth.  We 
advise  you  to  have  a  larger  hole  dug  out  in  autumn,  taking  care  that 
the  soil  is  moved  3  feet  deep  and  as  much  in  width  and  breadth.  In 
returning  soil  mix  with  it  some  good  manure,  and  after  the  soil  has 
lain  for  about  two  or  three  weeks  replant  your  Rose,  or,  better  still, 
procure  a  new  one  on  its  own  roots.  These  Roses  are  readily  pro- 
curable in  this  way  now,  and  they  are  much  superior  to  budded 
plants. 

Roses  Failing 

Q.  I  enclose  two  cuttings  of  two  different  trees.  Can  you  tell  me 
the  cause  of  their  getting  in  this  condition  ?  I  planted  twelve  in  a 
bed  6  feet  square  in  March.  The  bed  was  a  new  one  ;  2  feet  of  soil 
with  9  inches  of  stones  under,  and  manure  just  below  the  roots,  and 
well  manured  on  top.  All  of  the  trees  are  in  the  same  state  more  or 
less.  I  got  the  trees  from  a  reputable  firm.  They  have  a  fairly 
sunny  aspect. — E.  D.y  Bolton. 

A.  Your  soil  is  probably  too  light  for  Roses,  and  you  may  have 
given  the  bed  too  much  drainage.  The  specimen  growths  sent 
appeared  as  though  the  plants  had  been  burnt  up.  Perhaps  you  did  not 
plant  them  firmly  enough.  Roses  need  to  be  planted  very  firmly, 
and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  go  over  the  plantation  a  week  afterwards  and 
press  the  soil  again  with  the  heel.  It  may  be  the  plants  had  been 
frozen  at  the  root  ere  you  received  them,  or  perhaps  you  did  not 
prune  them.  Rose  plants  should  be  cut  back  hard  the  first  season 
after  planting,  to  within  3  or  4  inches  of  the  ground. 

Climbing  Roses   Failing  on   West  Wall 

Q.  On  a  wall  facing  west  of  a  house  I  have  recently  taken  there 
are  three  Rose  trees  trained,  Crimson  Rambler,  Hiawatha,  and  Gloire 
de  Dijon,  the  lower  parts  of  which  are  nearly  bare,  and  the  remain- 
ing leaves  all  affected  by  apparently  the  same  disease.  I  enclose 
specimens.  Your  advice  would  be  esteemed. — Rosey,  Salisbury. 

A.  All  the  Roses  have  suffered  from  red  spider,  a  pest  that 
frequently  attacks  wall  Roses.  Crimson  Rambler  is  notoriously 
addicted  to  this  when  planted  against  a  wall,  the  very  worst  position 
for  it,  and  it  has  probably  given  it  to  the  others.  We  should  advise 


28       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

you  to  remove  this  Rose  to  the  open  garden  in  the  autumn.  Good 
syringing  upon  the  under  side  of  foliage  will  stop  the  pest  as  much  as 
anything,  and  plain  water  should  be  frequently  employed  ;  but  at 
intervals  of  about  ten  days  syringe  with  a  solution  of  liver  of  sulphur 
made  by  dissolving  1  oz.  of  the  sulphur  in  10  gallons  of  water. 

Roses  on  Wall  Flowering  at  Top  Only 

Q.  Roses  planted  against  a  wall  have  grown  up  immensely  tall, 
and  only  have  leaves  and  blooms  high  up,  because  there  was  a  thick 
growth  of  other  plants  low  down — i.e.  up  to  5  or  6  feet.  These  are 
now  removed,  and  the  long,  bare  stems  of  the  Roses  look  very 
miserable.  Had  I  better  cut  the  Roses  back  and  these  bare  stems, 
leaving  them,  say,  3  feet  high  ? — M.  de  K.,  Essex. 

A.  Cut  down  the  oldest  stems  of  the  Roses  to  within  2  to  3  feet 
of  the  base  in  March.  Bend  down  the  remainder  in  a  horizontal 
direction,  fastening  them  to  the  wall.  This  should  induce  them  to 
break  into  growth  also  near  the  base,  after  which  you  can  cut  off  the 
tops.  Give  the  plants  a  mulching  of  manure  as  soon  as  pruned. 

Artificial  Manures  for  Roses 

Q.  I  am  unable  to  obtain  farmyard  manure.  What  is  the  best 
artificial  fertiliser  to  use  ?— E.  J.  K.,  Caterham. 

A.  What  is  known  as  Tonks'  manure  is  an  excellent  preparation, 
and  should  be  applied  in  February  at  the  rate  of  j  Ib.  to  1  square 
yard  of  surface.  It  is  compounded  as  follows :  Superphosphate  of 
lime,  12  parts ;  nitrate  of  potash,  10  parts ;  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
2  parts;  sulphate  of  iron,  1  part;  sulphate  of  lime,  8  parts.  It 
should  be  well  hoed  in  or  lightly  forked  in. 

Dried  Blood  as  Manure 

Q.  I  shall  be  glad  to  know  whether,  1,  this  manure  can  be  suc- 
cessfully used  in  the  growth  of  Roses,  and  if  so,  whether,  2,  it  should 
be  incorporated  with  the  soil  when  trenching?—  Amateur,  S.  Wales. 

A.  This  is  a  very  useful  stimulant  for  all  crops,  but  should  only 
be  applied  during  the  growing  season.  Apply  about  1  oz.  to  the 
square  yard  at  intervals  of  two  weeks,  from  May  to  July,  forking  or 
hoeing  it  into  the  surface  soil. 

Half-inch  Bones  for  Roses 

Q.  Will  you  enlighten  me  on  the  following  ?  I  have  been  told 
that  if  4-inch  bones  are  mixed  with  the  soil  in  which  Roses  are  to  be 


.B 

OQ  M 
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Eg- 


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33 


30       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

planted,  it  makes  them  produce  superabundance  of  roots  and  little 
top.  Also  that  it  produces  mildew,  which  works  from  the  roots 
upwards.  Is  this  so  ? — F.  .#.,  Ipswich. 

A.  There  is'no  truth  in  the  assertion  that  bones  are  injurious  to 
Roses,  in  fact  it  is  the  other  way  about,  as  you  may  see  if  you  turn 
out  a  pot  Rose  in  which  bones  have  been  mixed  with  the  soil. 
Every  little  rootlet  will  quickly  lay  hold  of  the  small  particles. 
Half-inch  bones  are  more  durable  for  outside  planting.  We  should 
advise  about  l£  Ib.  to  2  Ib.  to  2  bushels  of  soil,  or  say,  two  handfuls 
for  each  plant,  well  mixing  it  with  the  soil.  There  should  be  farm- 
yard manure  applied  at  the  same  time  if  possible.  Both  standards 
and  Ramblers  benefit  by  the  application  of  £-inch  bones. 

Basic  Slag  and  Kainit   for   Roses 

Q.  I  have  been  told  that  these  are  good  for  Roses,  but  am  ignor- 
ant of  the  manner  of  using  them.  Can  you  help  ? — Man  of  Kent. 

A.  Basic  slag,  being  nearly  half  free  lime,  would  be  an  excellent 
dressing  for  land  rich  in  organic  matter.  The  basic  slag  contains 
from  16  to  18  per  cent,  of  phosphoric  acid,  and  the  kainit  about 
12  per  cent,  of  potash.  Do  not  apply  more  than  8  oz.  per  square 
yard  of  the  basic  slag,  and  2  oz.  to  3  oz.  of  kainit.  The  mixture 
should  be  dug  in  as  deeply  as  may  be  done  without  injury  to  the 
roots,  and  the  earlier  in  the  winter  this  is  done  the  better  will  be  the 
effect  the  following  season.  In  the  spring,  where  the  basic  slag  and 
kainit  have  been  used  in  the  winter,  you  may  apply  a  dressing  of 
2  parts  superphosphate  and  1  part  sulphate  of  ammonia,  pointing  the 
mixture  very  lightly  into  the  soil  or  hoeing  it  in,  2  oz.  to  3  oz.  being 
applied  per  square  yard. 

Rambler   Roses   and  Others   from    Cuttings 

Q.  Please  tell  me  the  correct  time  to  take  cuttings  of  Sweet  Briar, 
climbing  Polyantha,  and  Wichuraiana  Roses.  What  kind  of  shoots 
should  be  taken  *?  I  am  told  that  some  Roses  besides  Gloire  de 
Dijon  will  flower  with  little  or  no  sun.  Could  you  kindly  name 
them  ?  I  have  struck  various  Teas  in  water.  Will  the  above  kinds 
answer  thus  ? — Enquirer,  Shrewsbury. 

A.  The  best  time  to  put  in  cuttings  of  the  Rambler  Roses  and 
other  hardy  kinds  is  early  in  October.  Good,  well  ripened  growths 
are  best.  Those  that  have  flowered  the  same  year  make  up  into 
very  good  cuttings.  You  could  first  take  off  the  laterals  that  bore 
the  blossom,  if  possible  securing  a  heel  or  piece  of  the  old  wood,  and 


BEGINNER'S   GUIDE   TO   ROSE   GROWING  31 

cut  this  through  with  a  sharp  knife.  The  cuttings  should  be  about 
8  inches  in  length.  Sometimes  these  laterals  will  make  two  or  three 
cuttings.  Use  the  strongest  wood  you  can  get,  providing  it  is  not 
soft  and  pithy.  Plant  them  in  the  open  garden  on  a  piece  of  well 
dug  soil,  and  let  the  rows  be  about  12  inches  apart,  and  the  cuttings 


IF     CUTTINGS     OP    ROSES    ARE     INSERTED     IN    A     FLOWER    POT 

FILLED     WITH      SANDY     SOIL     IN     LATE     SUMMER      OR      EARLY 

AUTUMN,     THEY     WILL     FORM     ROOTS     IN     A     FEW    WTEEKS     IF 

PLACED    UNDER    A    HANDLIGHT    IN    A    GREENHOUSE. 

about  4  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  They  should  be  put  in  almost 
their  full  depth,  merely  leaving  about  |  inch  above  the  soil,  and  be 
careful  to  tread  them  in  very  tightly.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  put  a 
little  sandy  soil  for  the  ends  of  cuttings  to  rest  on.  Most  Roses 
prefer  sunshine,  but  the  Scotch  Roses  will  grow  in  the  shade,  also 
the  Rugosa  or  Japanese  tribe.  We  should  not  advise  you  to  strike 


A    ROSE    CUTTING  TWO    MONTHS    AFTER  INSERTION.         IT   WAS 

TAKEN     IN     AUGUST     AND    TREATED    AS     DESCRIBED     ON    THE 

PREVIOUS    PAGE.      THE    ROOTS    MAY    BE    SEEN. 


BEGINNER'S  GUIDE  TO  ROSE  GROWING  33 

these  Rambler  Roses  in  water,  as  it  would  be  too  late  in  the  year  for 
this  method  of  rooting  them.  They  would  strike  very  well  in  water 
the  same  as  Tea  Roses,  but  you  would  need  to  put  the  cuttings  in 
in  July  in  the  greenhouse. 

Spraying  Roses  for  Mildew 

Q.  My  Roses  are  now  (September)  covered  with  mildew.  What 
can  I  do  to  cure  them  ?— S.  E.  T.,  Reading. 

A.  Towards  the  end  of  summer,  when  the  leaves  of  Roses  are 
white  with  mildew,  people  are  anxious  to  know  what  they  can  do  to 
check  the  disease  ;  but  it  is  then  too  late  to  save  the  plants  from 
disfigurement.  The  white  part  seen  on  the  leaves  is  the  fruiting 
stage  of  the  fungus,  which  has  already  been  on  the  plant  for 
a  considerable  period.  If,  however,  preventive  measures  are  taken 
early  in  the  year,  the  fungus  does  not  obtain  a  firm  footing.  An  ex- 
cellent time  to  spray  for  mildew  is  early  spring,  just  as  growth  is 
commencing.  The  spraying  ought  to  be  done  twice  or  thrice,  at 
intervals  of  a  fortnight.  Bordeaux  mixture  is  one  of  the  most 
suitable  preparations  to  use.  It  can  be  prepared  as  follows  : 
Dissolve  3  Ib.  of  copper  sulphate  in  warm  water,  placing  the 
mixture  in  a  barrel  holding  22  gallons.  In  another  vessel  slake 
2  Ib.  of  fresh  burnt  lime,  and  make  to  the  consistency  of  a  creamy 
whitewash ;  then  strain  through  canvas  into  the  barrel  of  sulphate 
solution,  make  up  to  22  gallons  with  water,  stir  well,  and  apply  as  a 
fine  spray  to  every  part  of  the  branches.  If  this  spraying  is  per- 
severed with,  very  little  mildew  will  appear  later  in  the  year. 

Climbing  Roses  for  Unheated  Greenhouse 

Q.  Please  name  the  best  six  climbing  Roses  for  small,  sunny, 
unheated  greenhouse. — H.  E.  J.,  Walthamstoiv. 

A .  The  following  are  six  good  climbers  for  this  purpose  ;  Bouquet 
d'Or,  Cheshunt  Hybrid,  W.  A.  Richardson,  Francois  Crousse,  Climb- 
ing C.  Testout,  Climbing  Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

Climbing  Roses  for  Heated   Greenhouse 

Q.  I  am  about  to  plant  two  climbing  Roses  in  my  conservatory  to 
cover  the  wall.  The  house  is  a  leanto,  facing  north-east,  the  floor 
bricked.  Would  it  be  best  to  take  up  a  few  bricks  and  plant  in  the 
earth  or  plant  in  tubs  1  The  sorts  I  intend  planting  are  Niphetos  and 
Marechal  Niel.  Please  tell  me  how  to  treat  them. — Scale^  Witter- 
sham. 
D 


34        GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES   SOLVED 

A.  Unless  you  can  prepare  holes  fully  3  feet  deep  and  as  much  in 
width,  and  fill  them  with  good  soil,  we  should  advi.se  you  to  plant 
the  two  climbing  Roses  in  tubs.  Procure  extra  strong  pot  grown 
plants,  and  in  transplanting  be  careful  only  to  remove  crocks  and  a 
little  of  the  soil  on  the  top  edges.  Soak  the  ball  of  soil  in  a  bucket 
of  water  for  a  few  minutes  before  planting.  With  these  pot  grown 
plants  no  pruning  is  needed  the  first  year. 


ROSE  LITTLE  PET  GROWN  IN   A  FLOWER   POT. 

Soil  for  Potting  Roses 

Q.  Can  I  use  ordinary  soil  from  the  garden  borders  for  potting 
Roses  ? — Enquirer,  Blackheath. 

A.  A  potting  soil  for  Roses  should  contain  a  fair  amount  of 
turfy  soil.  The  .garden  soil  sent  is  anything  but  this.  It  might 
be  used  in  a  small  proportion  with  loam,  otherwise  we  should 
not  advise  you  to  take  much  trouble  in  storing  it.  Try  to  procure 
the  top  spit  from  some  pasture  land,  and  stack  this  with  alternate 
layers  of  cow  manure ;  then  in  twelve  months  you  will  have  some 
good  compost  in  which  you  can  grow  some  grand  Roses. 

Roses  for  Christinas 


for 


Q.  I  am  about  to  build  a  greenhouse.     What  is  the  earliest  time 
Roses  to  flower,  as  I  would  like  some  for  Christmas  1    Please 


BEGINNER'S  GUIDE  TO  ROSE   GROWING  35 

name  six  best  Roses  for  early  forcing.     Would  pots  be  best  for  forc- 
ing Roses  as  I  would  like  to  use  them  1 — C.  W.  C.,  Warwick. 

A.  Roses  can  be  had  in  bloom  by  Christmas.  The  plants  should 
be  in  pots  and  well  established.  Try  your  nurseryman  for  two  year 
old  plants  that  have  not  recently  been  repotted.  These  would  give 
you  the  best  results.  Sometimes  there  are  nursery  sales  where 
you  could  procure  suitable  plants.  The  six  best  sorts  for  early 
forcing  would  be  Liberty,  Madame  Abel  Chatenay,  Richmond, 
Madame  Ravary,  Madame  Hoste,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant.  You  must 
allow  about  three  months  between  the  starting  of  the  Roses  and 


ROSE  MMB.  N.  LEVAVASSEUR  (CRIMSON),  AN  EXCELLENT  VARIETY 
FOR  GROWING  IN   POTS   IN  THE  GREENHOUSE. 


36       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

their  blossoming,  therefore  you  should  obtain  the  plants  in  Sep- 
tember, and  prune  them  lightly  by  the  last  week  of  that  month. 

Bush  Roses  in  Pots 

Q.  Kindly  inform  me  how  to  treat  bush  Hoses  in  pots  (jiist 
finished  flowering  in  greenhouse)  from  now  (May)  up  till  the  time  of 
flowering  in  greenhouse  next  spring.— G.  H.,  Colchester. 


ROSE   AENNCHEN  MULLER    (ROSE-PINK),    AN   ADMIRABLE 
ROSE  FOR  THE  GREENHOUSE. 

A.  The  plants  that  have  just  finished  flowering  should  be 
placed  outdoors  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  covering  the  pots  with  ashes  up 
to  the  rim.  Take  care  they  do  not  become  dry,  and  keep  all  flower 
buds  pinched  off.  In  September  the  plants  should  be  repotted  into 
a  size  larger  pot  if  the  pots  are  full  of  roots,  but  if  not  very  well 
rooted  merely  top  dress  them.  This  is  done  by  removing  about  1 
inch  or  so  of  the  top  soil,  then  sprinkling  a  little  Clay's  Fertilizer  upon 
the  soil,  and  filling  up  the  space  with  fresh  soil,  such  as  good  loam 


BEGINNER'S  GUIDE  TO  ROSE  GROWING  37 

and  weli  decayed  manure  in  equal  parts.  Keep  the  plants  outdoors 
on  the  ashes  until  November,  then  place  them  in  a  sheltered  spot 
until  Christmas.  At  this  time  they  should  be  pruned,  cutting  back 
the  current  season's  growths  to  three  or  fdtir  buds.  The  plants  may 
then  either  be  placed  in  the  greenhouse  or  in  a  cold  frame.  If  in 
the  greenhouse  commence  with  a  temperature  of  about  45°  at  night, 
increasing  to  about  50°  by  day.  As  growths  develop  the  temperature 
may  be  increased  up  to  65°  by  day,  about  10°  less  by  night. 

Roses  for  Forcing 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  have  a  few  pot  Roses  in  bloom  in  my  green- 
house in  spring.  How  do  I  proceed  1 — H.  E.  $.,  Stowrbridge. 

A.  The  best  results  are  always  obtained  when  the  plants  have 
been  established  in  their  pots  a  year,  but  plants  from  the  open 
ground,  if  potted  up  early  in  October  and  placed  at  once  in  a  cold 
frame,  may  be  put  into  a  gentle  heat  about  February  and  will  yield 
some  very  good  blossoms.  If  you  elect  to  do  this  you  should  make 
a  selection  from  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas,  and  for 
your  guidance  we  would  name  the  following  as  being  suitable  :  Frau 
Karl  Druschki,  Caroline  Testout,  La  France,  Mrs.  John  Laing, 
Captain  Hay  ward,  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  Liberty,  Madame  Ravary, 
Ulrich  Brunner,  and  Duke  of  Wellington.  Procure  plants  on  the 
Briar,  and  when  obtained  trim  over  their  roots  a  little  and  cut  off 
all  foliage,  and  reduce  the  length  of  the  shoots  to  about  18  inches. 
A  compost  of  3  parts  good  loam,  1  part  well  decayed  old  manure, 
and  some  j;-inch  bones,  about  3  Ib.  to  a  barrowful  of  compost.  Mix 
all  well  together  and  keep  in  an  open  rainproof  shed.  Use  either  7- 
or  8-inch  pots,  and  be  careful  to  pot  very  firm.  If  weather  is  dry 
after  potting  give  them  a  watering  with  a  fine  rose  can  and  put 
plants  on  a  bed  of  ashes  in  the  frame,  but  keep  the  lights  off  night 
and  day  until  frosts  threaten. 

Marechal  Niel  Rose  in  Greenhouse 

Q.  In  December  I  planted  a  Marechal  Niel  Rose  in  greenhouse. 
This  has  made  four  strong  shoots,  one  12  feet  long  and  three  some- 
what shorter ;  these  I  have  trained  on  separate  wires  about  6  inches 
from  roof ;  should  the  points  of  these  be  pinched  out  now  (July)  ? 
There  are  also  side  shoots  growing  from  these  four  ;  should  they  be 
stopped  ?  Kindly  advise  me.—/.  M.  P.,  Southend. 

A.  Your  plant  has  made  very  good  growth.  As  to  what  you  cut 
away  depends  upon  the  condition  of  the  growths.  If  well  hardened 


38       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

only  a  few  inches  of  extreme  ends  of  all  shoots  need  be  removed,  but 
if  the  shoots  are  soft  and  sappy  then  cut  away  2  or  3  feet  of  each. 
There  is  yet  time  for  the  growths  to  ripen  if  you  just  pinch  out 
the  points  and  give  as  much  air  as  possible,  at  the  same  time  keep 
dry.  About  the  early  part  of  the  year  is  soon  enough  for  this  Rose  to 
start  into  new  growth.  Cut  back  the  side  or  lateral  growths  in 
January  to  one  or  two  eyes  from  main  growth. 

Various  Roses  in   Town  Greenhouse 

Q.  I  have  two  glasshouses,  one  is  a  cold  hou-e  7  by  8  feet,  and 
about  10  feet  high,  a  leanto  ;  the  glass  comes  to  within  6  inches  of 
the  ground.  I  should  like  to  grow  some  Roses  in  it.  No  Roses  will 
grow  outside.  There  is  a  disused  chemical  works  at  the  back,  I 
suppose  that  is  the  reason,  and  also  being  near  the  city.— A.  K., 
Glasgow. 

A .  You  are  of  course  heavily  handicapped  in  being  near  a  large 
city  and  also  near  chemical  works.  Still  you  should  be  able  to  grow 
some  good  Roses  in  the  cold  greenhouse  if  you  provide  the  plants 
with  good  soil  to  root  into  and  afford  them  liquid  manure  in 
the  growing  season.  Under  glass  there  is  always  a  tendency  for  the 
Hydrid  Perpetual  Roses  to  run  to  wood  instead  of  flowering.  You 
must  check  this  by  pruning  very  sparingly.  Treat  the  plants  more 
as  pillar  Roses  or  as  climbers.  You  could  easily  put  Bamboo  canes 
about  5  to  6  feet  high  in  the  tubs  and  tie  growths  loosely  to  them, 
then  in  pruning  merely  shorten  back  to  one  or  two  eyes  the  side  or 
lateral  growths  that  eventually  appear.  Caroline  Testout  would  be 
much  more  serviceable  than  Victor  Hugo.  Instead  of  J.  B.  Clark  we 
would  advise  you  to  plant  Hugh  Dickson,  and  if  you  could  find 
room  for  a  yellow  plant  Madame  Ravary,  which  gives  such  delightful 
buds. 


CHAPTER  II 
Carnations  in  Winter  and  Summer 

Perpetual   Flowering   Carnations  Out    of  Doors 

Q.  Are  perpetual  flowering  Carnations  of  any  value  for  growing 
out  of  doors  ? — E.  J.  W.,  Hampton. 

A.  Yes,  they  are  invaluable.  If  put  out  in  May  they  bloom  all 
the  summer,  until  October  in  fact.  They  are  most  accommodating. 
Plants  that  have  flowered  in  the  greenhouse  throughout  the  winter 
will  bloom  out  of  doors  the  following  summer,  if  planted  out  in 
May.  They  are  put  out  in  ground  that  has  been  well  dug;  they 
need  no  attention  beyond  watering  during  dry  weather,  staking  and 
an  occasional  application  of  artificial  manure,  this  being  sprinkled 
round  about  the  plants  and  hoed  in. 

Perpetual   Flowering  Carnations   in  Greenhouse 

Q.  Can  one  grow  Perpetual  Flowering  Carnations  in  an  unheated 
greenhouse  1 — X.  Y.  Z.,  Buda. 

A.  No  ;  they  need  an  average  winter  temperature  of  55°  ;  that  is 
to  say  that  the  thermometer  must  not  fall  below  45°  in  cold  weather, 
while  during  sunny  days  it  may  rise  to  60°  or  higher.  When  the 
latter  temperature  is  reached  a  little  air  should  be  given. 

Perpetual   Flowering    Carnations  from  Cuttings 

Q.  Is  it  difficult  to  raise  them  from  cuttings  ? — Adrian,  Suanage. 

A .  No  ;  providing  the  material  in  which  the  cuttings  are  inserted 
is  warmed.  They  are  rooted  most  successfully  in  fine  sand  (silver 
sand  is  perhaps  the  best).  Boxes  some  3  or  4  inches  deep  are  filled 
with  sand,  the  cuttings  are  dibbled  in  and  made  as  firm  at  the  base 
as  is  possible.  The  boxes  are  then  placed  on  the  hot  water  pipes. 
It  is  wise  .to  have  the  boxes  prepared  a  few  days  before  the  cuttings 
are  put  in  so  that  the  sand  may  get  warm.  If  the  sand  is  watered 
before  the  cuttings  are  put  in,  probably  little  more  will  be 
required.  However,  the  sand  must  not  be  allowed  to  get  really  dry- 
The  best  cuttings  are  those  taken  from  towards  the  base  of  flower- 
ing stems.  They  are  put  in  preferably  during  January,  February 
and  March,  although  they  may  be  inserted  until  June.  The  box 

39 


t; 


CARNATIONS  IN  WINTER  AND  SUMMER  41 


containing  the  cuttings  is  covered  with  a  piece  of  glass  ;  this  should 
be  turned  over  every  morning  to  allow  the  moisture  that  gathers 
to  disperse. 

About   Tree  or  Perpetual    Flowering   Carnations 

Q.  Will  you  please  advise  me  as  to  tree  Carnations  1  I  received 
them  in  April,  just  out  of  thumb  pots,  the  plants  being  3  or  4  inches 
high.  I  potted  into  60's  in  rich  soil  rather  too  tightly,  I  think, 
because  the  foliage  grew  somewhat  crinkled.  However,  they  got 
over  that,  and  in  July  I  potted  on  into  48's  and  32's  (according  to  the 
condition  of  the 
roots),  this  time  in 
the  Chrysanthe- 
mum compost  with 
an  extra  liberal 
allowance  of  mor- 
tar rubbish,  and 
ramming  less  hard 
than  I  do  the 
Ch  ry  santhemums. 
Some  threw  up 
stems  for  blooms, 
but  these  I  pinched 
back  close,  and  all 
are  now  (August) 
healthy  and  well 
on  boards  in  the 
sun.  The  growths 
are  10  to  12  inches 
long,  and  pots  full 
of  roots.  Kindly 
advise  whether  I 
shall  be  right  to 
give  similar  treat- 
ment to  that  which 
usually  suits  Chry- 
santhemums. —  J. 
/.  P.,  Leivisham. 

A .  Y  e  s  ;   you      WHEN  THE  CUTTINGS  ARE  WELL  ROOTED  AND 

should      trpaf      tli  POTTED    OFF,   THE    TOP    OF    THE  GROWTH 

IS  PINCHED  OUT  TO  INDUCE  OTHER  SHOOTS 

plants  as    regards  TO  FORM. 


42       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

potting  and  housing  in  the  same  way  that  is  suitable  for  Chrysanthe- 
mums. But,  of  course,  it  is  not  advisable  to  ram  down  the  compost 
too  firmly.  Some  feeding  will  be  necessary  when  the  flower  stems 
commence  to  run  up.  Leave  space  for  top  dressing.  You  were 
rather  late  in  potting  ;  the  final  potting  should  be  done  in  June.  It 
is  a  mistake  to  stop  the  shoots  at  the  time  of  potting. 

Winter   Carnations 

Q.  How  should  Perpetual  Flowering  Carnations  be  grown  so  as 
to  provide  flowers  from  October  until  April  ? — J.  J.,  Bristol. 

A.  Briefly,  this  is  the  method  of  treatment.  Cuttings  are  inserted 
in  January  as  already  described.  They  will  be  rooted  in  6  weeks. 
They  are  then  potted  in  small  pots,  turfy  soil  with  plenty  of  sand 
intermixed,  being  used.  It  is  wise  to  give  little  or  no  air  for  a  week 
afterwards,  so  as  to  help  the  plants  to  root  quickly  in  the  fresh  soil. 
The  plants  are  kept  in  the  greenhouse  until  early  May.  They  are 
then  put  out  of  doors,  or  else  in  a  cold  frame ;  the  latter  is  pre- 
ferable, because  heavy  rains  can  be  kept  off.  They  need  all  the 
fresh  air  possible.  The  pots  are  plunged  to  the  rims  in  ashes, 
whether  the  plants  are  out  of  doors  or  in  a  frame.  They  must  be 
given  larger  pots  as  they  need  it,  or  in  other  words  as  soon  as  well 
rooted.  It  is  usual  to  repot  in  April,  and  again  finally  in  June, 
flower- pots  of  6  or  7  inches  diameter  being  used  on  the  latter  occa- 
sion. Use  a  soil  mixture  of  turfy  soil  2  parts,  and  old  manure,  such 
as  that  from  a  mushroom  bed,  1  part.  Failing  this,  use  1  part  soot  and 
£  inch  bones,  3  parts  turfy  soil.  In  September  the  plants  are 
brought  into  the  greenhouse  and  will  begin  to  bloom  in  October. 
Probably  no  fire  heat  will  be  necessary  at  first  to  maintain  a  night 
temperature  of  45°  to  50°.  The  question  of  "stopping"  or  pinching 
out  the  points  of  the  young  shoots  is  an  important  matter :  the 
object  is  to  make  the  plants  bushy.  The  first  stopping  becomes 
necessary  in  April  when  the  plants  are  potted  for  the  second  time. 
The  top  of  the  little  plant  is  pinched  out,  only  some  five  joints  being 
left.  Several  shoots  will  develop.  These  must  also  be  stopped 
when  about  3  inches  long.  Stopping  the  shoots  should  cease  at 
the  end  of  July.  It  is  most  important  to  keep  the  'soil  moist  through- 
out the  summer  :  this  is  accomplished  by  watering  thoroughly  where 
the  soil  appears  to  be  getting  dry.  During  the  winter  the  plants 
need  far  less  water  than  in  summer,  but  the  soil  must  still  be  kept 
moist ;  an  occasional  sprinkling  of  fertiliser  should  be  given,  say 
every  three  weeks. 


IT 


44       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Twelve   Good  Perpetual   Carnations 

Q.  Can  you  give  the  names  of  12  good  varieties] — Anxious, 
Birm  ingham. 

A.  New  sorts  are  being  brought  out  ever)-  year  now.  The  follow- 
ing are  some  of  the  best  of  those  in  commerce  :  Britannia,  red  ; 
Enchantress,  pink  ;  Afterglow,  rosy-cerise  ;  Jessica,  white  with  red 
marking ;  Mrs.  Burnett,  salmon-pink  ;  Hose  Pink  Enchantress, 
rose-pink ;  Winsor,  silvery-pink  ;  Victory,  scarlet ;  White  Perfec- 
tion, a  beautiful  white  ;  Royal  Purple,  purple  ;  Mrs.  Lawson,  cerise- 
pink  ;  Harlowarden,  dark  crimson  ;  Black  Chief,  dark  crimson ; 
Aurora,  buff  shade. 

Preparing  Beds  for  Border  Carnations 

Q.  I  am  about  to  buy  a  collection  of  good  varieties  of  Carnations. 
How  should  I  prepare  the  ground  for  them  ? — Nemo.,  Brighton. 

A .  In  order  that  this  plant  may  bear  up  well  in  a  hot,  dry  season, 
the  soil  should  be  dug  deeply.  As  your  soil  has  only  six  inches  of 
good  soil  and  thin  clay  below,  we  should  advise  you  to  have  the 
ground  dug  18  inches  deep,  taking  care  that  the  clay  is  kept  at  the 
bottom.  A  layer  of  manure  should  be  put  in  the  bottom  and 
another  layer  6  or  8  inches  below  the  surface.  Having  so  trenched 
the  land  you  could  then  mark  out  the  paths  and  put  the  soil  on  top 
of  beds.  You  must  look  out  for  wireworm,  as  this  pest  is  very  pre- 
valent in  old  pastures.  Give  the  soil  a  dressing  of  Vaporite  or  Kilogrub 
as  you  plant.  We  think  for  this  season  we  should  keep  the  plants  in 
their  pots  during  the  winter,  seeing  that  the  soil  is  not  ready- 
When  the  soil  is  prepared  in  good  time  then  we  prefer  to  plant 
out  the  rooted  layers  in  October.  A  cold  frame  is  a  good  place  to 
keep  the  plants,  and  they  are  not  afraid  of  cold  and  some  frost. 
Keep  the  lights  well  tilted  during  wet  weather  ;  in  fact,  the  hardier 
they  are  brought  up  the  better.  A  little  lime  added  to  the  soil  when 
trenching  would  be  an  advantage.  Well  rotted  manure  is  best  to 
use.  A  dressing  of  well  rotted  manure  to  the  surface  after  planting 
is  very  helpful. 

Best  Scarlet  Border  Carnation 

Q.  Please  say  which  is  the  best  Scarlet  Carnation. —  W.  P., 
Romford. 

A .  The  best  Scarlet  Carnation  is  Cardinal  (Douglas).  There  is 
another  one  of  this  name.  Twelve  good  Carnations  for  amateurs  : 
Agnes  Sorrel,  Benbow,  Charles  Martel,  Cardinal,  Daffodil,  Helen 


CARNATIONS  IN   WINTER  AND   SUMMER  45 

Countess  of  Kadnor,  John  Pope,  Lara,  Miss  Ellis,  Miss  Willmott, 
Trojan. 

Border  Carnations  from  Cuttings 

Q.  Will  you  please  tell  me  if  it  is  possible   to  grow   Border 
Carnations  from  cuttings  ?— E.  D.  S.t  Swansea. 


CARNATION  ELIZABETH   SHIFFNER  (ORANGE- YELLOW), 
THE  FINEST  NEW  BORDER  CARNATION. 

A.  Some  people  like  to  root  border  Carnations,  and  especially 
the  Clove  section,  from  cuttings,  and  October  is  the  time  to  begin. 
They  may  be  inserted  in  a  sandy  compost  either  in  pots  or  boxes  and 


46       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

after  being  watered  should  be  placed  for  the  winter  in  a  cold  frame, 
which,  being  kept  always  close,  preserves  the  leaves  from  flagging. 
Many  of  the  Pinks  also  may  be  rooted  in  the  same  manner,  the  best 
cuttings  being  those  broken  off  with  a  heel — piece  of  old  stem. 
Mule  Pinks  should  be  treated  similarly  :  some  of  these,  of  which 
Napoleon  III.  may  be  mentioned,  require  to  be  renewed  annually 
from  cuttings. 

Twenty-four  Carnations  that  are  Really  Fragrant 

Q.  So  many  Border  Carnations  are  scentless,  that  I  should  be 
glad  to  learn  of  two  dozen  really  fragrant  sorts. — Helen,  Derby. 

A.  Mr.  James  Douglas  recommends  the  following  as  being 
fragrant  varieties  :  Agnes  Sorrel,  Banshee,  Beauty,  Bella  Donna, 
Bertie,  Boadicea,  Burn  Pink,  Castilian,  Charm,  Chloris,  Countess  of 
Paris,  Cupid,  Enid,  Floradora,  Helen  Countess  of  Radnor,  H.  J.  Cut- 
bush,  Mr.  W.  Incledon,  Much  the  Miller,  Narses,  Pink  Beauty, 
Queen  of  Scots,  R.  Berkeley,  Tantallon,  Twilight. 

Best   12   Self  and  Fancy   Carnations  and  12  Picotees 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  to  know  which  you  consider  to  be  the  best  12 
Self-coloured  Carnations,  the  best  12  Fancy  Carnations,  and  the  best 
12  Picotees  1—E.  0.  W.,  Bexley. 

A.  Self-coloured  Carnations  :  Daffodil,  W.  H.  Parton,  Cassandra, 
Miss  Shiffner,  Sir  Bevys,  Hildegarde,  Isinglass,  Benbow,  Lady  Her- 
mione,  Miss  Willmot,  Mrs.  E.  Hambro',  Francis  Samuelson.  Fancies  : 
Argosy,  Horsa,  Monarch,  Liberte,  Lady  Ardilaun,  Merlin,  Ivo 
Sebright,  Richness,  Yeoman,  Professor  Cooper,  Banshee,  Rony 
Buchanan.  Picotees  :  Dalkeith,  Mrs.  W.  Heriot,  Hesperia,  Childe 
Harold,  Duchess  of  Roxburghe,  Lady  St.  Oswald,  Gronow,  The 
Pilgrim,  Lauzan,  Daniel  Defoe,  Gertrude,  Amy  Robsart. 

Carnation  Attacked  by   Eelworm 

Q.  Will  you  kindly  hold  a  post  mortem  on  enclosed  corpse  of 
Carnation,  and  announce  result?  The  flower  stalk  looked  gouty. — 
S.  M.  K.,  Sutton. 

A.  The  portion  of  stem  was  swarming  with  stem  eel  worm  (Tylen- 
chus  devastatrix)  and  its  eggs.  The  full  grown  eel  worm  is  about  ^V  inch 
long,  and  in  appearance  resembles  a  tiny  eel,  with  both  ends  pointed, 
the  hind  end  specially  so.  The  refuse  of  infested  plants  should  be 
burned,  and  the  place  whence  they  have  been  uprooted,  in  the  case 
of  Carnations,  soaked  with  a  solution  of  formalin  (formaldehyde 
40  per  cent.),  1  fluid  oz.  to  5  pints  of  water,  in  order  to  destroy  the 


CARNATIONS  IN  WINTER  AND  SUMMER  47 

pests  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  diseased  root,  as  well  as  where 
it  has  been.  After  this  treatment,  and  in  the  course  of  a  fortnight  or 
three  weeks,  the  ground  may  be  dressed  with  basic  slag  and  6  oz.  of 
kainit  per  square  yard,  forking  into  the  ground  about  6  inches  deep, 
and  leaving  until  February,  then  fork  over  the  ground  a  spit  (10  to 
12  inches)  deep,  breaking  up  well.  Shortly  afterwards,  and  before 
sowing  seeds  or  setting  plants,  apply  a  top  dressing,  to  be  lightly 
pointed  or  raked  in,  of  a  mixture  of  2  parts  superphosphate  and 

1  part  sulphate  of  ammonia,  applying  2  Ib.  of  the  mixture  per  rod,  or 

2  oz.  per  square  yard.     As  a  further  precaution  against  eelworm  and 
other  ground  pests,  the  ground  may  be  dressed  with  Vaporite. 

Diseases  that  attack  Carnations 

Q.  Can  you  give  me  a  few  notes  on  such  diseases  as  commonly 
attack  Carnations,  together  with  preventives  and  remedies  ? — //.  T.  J., 
Hereford. 

A.  Several  diseases  cause  sad  work  with  Carnations,  particularly 
mildew,  green  fly,  eelworm,  wireworm,  spot  disease  of  the  leaves, 
and  earwigs.  If  your  plants  are  grown  indoors  a  great  deal  may  be 
done  to  prevent  disease  by  giving  suitable  cultural  conditions.  A 
rather  dry  atmosphere  is  required,  with  free  ventilation  without 
draughts.  Mildew  may  be  kept  in  check  by  dusting  affected  plants 
with  sulphur.  In  the  case  of  spot  disease  the  worst  of  the  leaves 
should  be  removed  and  burnt,  and  the  remainder  dusted  with 
sulphur.  Plants  that  are  very  badly  affected  ought  to  be  burnt; 
plants  affected  by  eelworms  ought  also  to  be  burnt.  Green  fly 
may  be  kept  in  check  indoors  by  fumigating,  and  outdoors  by 
syringing  with  soft  soap  water  into  every  3  gallons  of  which  ^  pint 
of  paraffin  has  been  well  mixed.  Wireworms  often  cause  serious 
injury  by  boring  through  stems  and  roots.  They  may  be  caught 
by  trapping  with  pieces  of  Carrot  or  Potato  placed  1  inch  or  so 
beneath  the  surface.  These  traps  ought  to  be  examined  each 
morning  and  the  wireworms  destroyed.  Earwigs  may  be  trapped 
by  placing  small  pots  partly  filled  with  dry  moss  amongst  the 
plants.  Earwigs  will  get  in  amongst  the  moss  for  shelter,  and  may 
be  caught  and  destroyed. 


CHAPTER  III 

Sweet  Pea  Difficulties  Made  Clear 
Selection  of  Sweet  Peas 

Q.  Please  say  how  you  would  improve  on  the  following  collection 
of  Sweet  Peas,  most  of  which  I  have  .already  got.  1,  Zephyr  ;  2, 
Crimson  Paradise  ;  3,  Evelyn  Hemus  ;  4,  Paradise  Ivory  ;  5,  Paradise 
Carmine  ;  6,  Constance  Oliver  ;  7,  Elsie  Herbert ;  8,  Olive  Ruflell ; 
9,  Mrs.  Charles  Foster;  10,  Helen  Paradise  ;  11,  Gladys  Burt ;  12, 
Edna  Unwin  ;  13,  Clara  Curtis  ;  14,  Arthur  Unwin  ;  15,  Master- 
piece ;  16,  George  North  Improved  :  17,  Mrs.  H.  Bell ;  18,  Etta 
Dyke;  19,  Marjorie  Willis  ;  20,  Syeira  Lee. — R.  G.,  Ellon. 

A.  The  list  of  varieties  is  a  strong  one.  I  should  add  Douglas 
Unwin  or  Prince  of  Asturias  for  a  maroon ;  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes 
or  Princess  Victoria  for  a  blush  ;  The  Marquis  or  Tennant  Spencer 
for  mauve ;  and  Helen  Pierce  for  a  veined  blue.  These  will  make 
up  two  dozen. 

Manure  for  Sweet   Peas 

Q.  I  have  prepared  2 -feet  trenches  for  growing  Sweet  Peas  next 
year,  and  have  mixed  with  the  soil,  which  is  fairly  rich,  a  good 
supply  of  j-inch  bones.  In  my  yard  I  have  a  well  which  receives 
the  drainings  from  the  stables  of  six  horses.  Would  the  sediment 
and  the  liquid  be  safe  applied  now  (November)  ?  And  what  quantity 
should  be  used  ?  Would  you  advise  letting  it  remain  on  the  ground 
until  spring  or  digging  in  at  the  time  applied  ?  Would  the  result 
from  this  be  equal  to  stable  or  cow  manure  1— H.  J.  F.,  Portsmouth. 

A.  On  the  whole  the  ground  would  benefit  by  the  contents  of  the 
well  ;  the  only  drawback  is  that  it  may  tend  to  make  the  soil  slimy. 
If  you  have  left  the  ground  rough  and  lumpy  you  may  safely  put  the 
stuff  on  direct,  otherwise  you  should  mix  it  with  ashes  before  apply- 
ing it.  You  might  put  it  on  2  inches  thick.  Leave  it  on  the  surface 
before  turning  it  in.  It  could  hardly  be  so  good  as  stable  manure, 
because  it  would  produce  less  humus  ;  still,  it  has  got  to  be  disposed 
of  somehow.  The  best  plan  of  all  would  be  to  use  it  on  ground  to 
be  planted  with  Greens,  and  employ  stable  manure  and  chemicals  for 
the  Sweet  Peas. 

48 


SWEET  PEA  DIFFICULTIES  MADE   CLEAR  49 

Sweet  Pea  Buds  Falling 

Q.  I  wonder  if  you  can  tell  me  what  causes  my  Sweet  Pea  buds 
to  fall  off  just  as  they  are  coining  out.  The  plants  look  perfectly 
healthy,  but  all  the  first  flowers  have  been  taken  in  this  way, 
leaving  the  stalk  on  just  as  if  the  buds  had  been  picked  off.  I 
enclose  you  some  stalks,  one  of  which  has  a  bud  just  falling. — $.  «/., 
Oxted. 

A.  The  earliest  buds  often  fall,  and  little  anxiety  need  be  felt  as 
the  later  ones  are  not  affected.  The  cold  wet  weather  of  which  we 
have  had  so  much  this  summer  is  no  doubt  responsible  for  the 
flowers  falling.  If  you  have  been  overdosing  them  with  manure  the 
buds  would  naturally  fall. 

Preparing  Ground  for  Sweet  Peas 

Q.  I  wish  to  grow  Sweet  Peas  on  ground  which  is  of  a  very  heavy 
nature  ;  about  18  inches  down  there  is  a  kind  of  blue  clay,  which  is 
sticky  when  wet — it  is  like  cutting  soap.  I  propose  going  down 
about  2  feet,  putting  in  road  grit  and  manure,  mixing  well.  Should 
I  be  doing  right  in  incorporating  with  the  manure,  etc.,  basic  slag,  or 
would  lime  do  as  well  1  If  so,  in  what  proportions  should  I  use 
either,  or  both  ?  Should  kainit  and  lime  be  applied  when  preparing 
ground,  or  is  it  best  to  put  on  top  of  ground  and  hoe  it  in  after 
trenches  are  filled  ?— In  Z>oubt,  Enjield. 

A.  Do  not  bring  the  clayey  subsoil  to  the  surface,  but  thoroughly 
break  it  up  and  leave  it  below.  Apply  the  basic  slag  at  the  rate  of 
4  oz.  per  square  yard  and  mix  it  with  the  soil  about  9  inches  below 
the  surface.  Apply  lime  at  the  rate  of  8  oz.  per  square  yard,  and 
put  it  on  the  surface.  Both  should  be  applied  in  the  autumn,  but  the 
lime  one  month  after  the  basic  slag.  Four  ounces  of  kainit  per  square 
yard  may  be  mixed  with  the  latter  and  applied  at  the  same  time. 

About  Stopping  Sweet  Peas 

Q.  Is  there  any  advantage  in  snipping  off  the  tops  of  Sweet  Pea 
plants  when  a  few  inches  high  1 — Doubtful,  Harrow. 

A,  When  Sweet  Peas  grow  to  the  height  of  about  3  inches  and 
are  then  stopped,  it  has  the  effect  of  making  the  plants  break  out 
from  the  base.  Thus  the  Sweet  Peas  become  bushy,  producing  more 
growths  from  the  base  than  would  otherwise  be  the  case.  Pinching 
back,  provided  it  is  not  carried  out  to  excess,  also  induces  an 
increased  formation  of  roots,  which  is  an  advantage,  especially  to 
floriferous  plants  like  Sweet  Peas.  Plants  which  have  been  pinched 

E 


50        GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES   SOLVED 

do  not  ultimately  attain  the  same  height  as  plants  which  are  not 
stopped,  that  is  providing  other  conditions  are  equal.  At  the  same 
time,  if  the  plants  are  stopped  once  only  in  their  lifetime  the 
difference  in  height  is  not  very  great.  This  method  is  chiefly 
advisable  with  weakly  plants. 

Growing   Sweet  Peas  in  pots 

Q.  Please  give  concise  directions  for  growing  Sweet  Peas  in  pots 
to  bloom  from  April  to  June.— E.  W.  £.,  Southen-1. 


THIS     SWEET    PEA    IS    OF     THE    VARIETY    DOROTHY 

ECKFORD,    AND  WAS  GROWN  FROM   ONE  SEED   SOWN 

IN  A  MIDLAND  GARDEN. 


52       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

A.  Seeds  are  sown  in  September,  5  or  6  seeds  round  the  edge  of 
a  5  inch  wide  flower  pot.  Keep  in  a  cold  frame  until  December, 
then  bring  in  greenhouse.  Temperature  should  not  exceed  50° 
without  sunheat.  Neither  should  it  fall  below  40°  in  cold  weather. 
Use  a  fairly  light  soil,  turfy  soil  two  thirds,  leaf  soil  and  sand  one 
third.  In  January  the  plants  will  be  only  about  6  inches  high,  but 
with  a  little  sunshine  they  will  grow  rapidly,  being  by  then  well 
rooted.  Keep  the  soil  fairly  moist.  More  water  will  be  needed  as 
growth  becomes  more  vigorous-  Give  a  little  air  when  the  ther- 
mometer registers  55°  under  the  influence  of  sunshine.  Occasional 
applications  of  Clay's  Fertilizer  much  diluted  may  be  given  from 
March  onwards. 

Sweet  Peas  Killed  by  Pea  Mould 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  what  is  the  matter  with  the  Sweet  Peas  I 
send  you  ?  They  have  been  quite  a  failure. — E,  0.  H.,  Walsall. 

A.  The  plants  are  quite  dead  at  the  roots,  reduced  to  the  con- 
dition of  thin  rusty  wire,  and  the  leaves  are  all  dried  up,  browned, 
and  more  or  less  dead.  They  have  been  destroyed  by  the  Pea 
mould  (Peronospora  trifoliorum  var.  viciae).  Wet  weather  favours 
the  fungus.  With  better  weather  the  plants  should  improve,  as  the 
fungus  is  not  only  an  early  affection,  but  is  also  retarded  by  fine  dry 
weather.  The  plants  may  possibly  be  benefited  by  watering  with 
a  solution  of  iron  sulphate,  |  oz.  to  1  gallon  of  water,  using  this 
along  both  sides  of  the  row,  but  not  over  the  plants,  and  if  these 
have  the  rootstems  sound  it  is  likely  they  may  recruit,  otherwise 
there  is  very  little  hope  of  betterment.  You  may  use  the  sulphate 
of  iron  solution  once  a  week,  and  as  a  general  fertiliser  for  Sweet 
Peas  a  solution  containing  |  oz.  each  of  superphosphate  of  lime 
and  kainit  (high  quality),  and  ^  oz.  each  of  nitrate  of  soda  and 
iron  sulphate  to  4  gallons  of  water.  Of  course,  this  must  not  be  used 
where  the  iron  sulphate  solution  is  employed,  and  it  is  advisable  to 
alternate  this  with  lime  water,  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  soot  to 
each  gallon  of  lime',  forming  the  soot  into  a  paste  previously  so  that 
it  can  be  readily  mixed.  All  the  diseased  plants,  as  they  go  off, 
should  be  pulled  up  and  burned,  not  leaving  any  part  of  the  haulm 
in  the  ground,  not  even  portions  of  leaves. 

Sweet  Peas  in  Same  Spot  Year  after  Year 

Q.  My  garden  is  so  small  that  I  shall  be  compelled  to  grow 
Sweet  Peas  in  the  same  place  year  after  year.  How  am  I  to  treat 


SWEET  PEA  DIFFICULTIES  MADE  CLEAR  53 

the  soil  ?    Will  any  system  of  manuring  be  successful,   or  must 
I  have  fresh  soil  for  each  crop  ? — C.  L.  S.t  Surrey. 

A.  It  is  advisable,  though  not  really  necessary,  to  remove  a 
portion  of  the  soil  and  replace  it  with  fresh.  Trench  the  ground 
3  feet  deep,  and  put  in  some  well  rotted  manure,  and  also  a  dressing 
of  superphosphate  at  the  rate  of  4  oz.  per  square  yard.  The  plants 
would  derive  much  benefit  from  a  dressing  of  superphosphate  at  the 
rate  of  2  oz.  per  yard  run  of  row  while  they  are  growing.  Keep  the 
powder  from  the  haulm. 

Pig  Manure  for  Sweet  Peas 

Q.  Will  you  be  so  good  as  to  give  me  your  opinion  of  pig  manure 
for  Sweet  Peas  1  I  am  digging  my  trenches  now  (November)  4  feet 
deep,  and  propose  putting  the  pig  manure  under  the  bottom  spit. 
The  soil  is  15  inches  light  top  soil  and  fine  sand  underneath,  no 
gravel  or  clay  at  all.  Will  lime  be  of  any  use  in  this  soil,  besides 
superphosphate  of  lime  1 — R.  (7.,  Surrey. 

A.  Yes;  you  may  mix  the  pig  manure  freely  with  the  soil 
about  10  inches  below  the  surface.  Do  not  use  lime  now,  but 
apply  superphosphate  of  lime  at  the  rate  of  2  oz.  per  yard  run 
of  row,  when  the  plants  are  growing  freely.  Commence  in  April 
and  give  applications  every  twenty  days  or  so. 


CHAPTER  IV 
Flower  Garden  Trials  and  Troubles 

How  to  Destroy  Worms  on   a  Lawn 

Q.  Will  you  please  tell  me  if  there  is  any  possible  way  of  ridding 
a  bowling  green  of  worms,  or  of  stopping  them  from  lifting  the 
surface  in  the  autumn  1—  W.  JP.,  Reading. 

A.  You  may  place  1  peck  of  lime  in  20  gallons  of  water  and  stir 
the  mixture  well.  Then  allow  it  to  settle  and  add  another  20 
gallons  of  water.  When  the  liquid  has  once  more  settled  and  is 
clear,  water  the  lawn  with  it  through  a  fine  rosed  watering-can. 
The  worms  will  come  to  the  surface,  when  they  may  be  swept  up. 
Apply  in  autumn  and  spring. 

Quantity  of  Lawn  Seed  to   Sow 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  how  much  lawn  seed  to  sow  for  a  lawn 
of  600  square  yards.—//.  J.  E.,  Harrow. 

A.  The  usual  quantity  of  lawn  seed  to  sow  is  about  40  Ib.  to 
50  Ib.  per  acre.  To  sow  600  square  yards  would  therefore  need 
about  5  Ib.  or  6  Ib.  of  seed .  Providing  your  ground  is  well  prepared 
and  level,  the  seed  might  be  sown  at  any  time  now  (March).  Choose 
a  quiet  day  when  there  is  little  or  no  wind  to  carry  the  seed  about 
at  the  time  of  sowing,  and  be  sure  that  you  obtain  good  lawn  seed 
from  a  reliable  nurseryman.  Sow  across  from  north  to  south  and 
from  east  to  west. 

Weeds  on  Lawn 

Q.  Will  you  kindly  advise  me  the  best  way  to  eradicate  a  weed 
from  my  lawn  ?  This  starts  with  small  plants,  and  finally  becomes 
quite  a  large  patch,  and  these  patches  are  now  spreading  consider- 
ably. The  weeds  grow  so  close  that  little  if  any  grass  grows  through 
hem.— F.  N.  Hulton,  East  Sheen. 

A.  Lawn  sand  will  destroy  Daisies  on  lawn,  and  would  destroy 
this  (Plaintain).  This  is  the  cheapest  and  simplest  way  we  know 
of  getting  rid  of  such  weeds.  It  must  be  applied  in  spring,  just 
before  the  grass  begins  to  grow.  It  may  be  had  of  all  seed  merchants 
and  sundriesmen,  with  directions  how  to  use.  It  has  the  effect  of 

54 


FLOWER  GARDEN  TRIALS  AND  TROUBLES  55 

turning  the  grass  brown  for  a  time,  but  it  quickly  recovers.  Or 
you  might  dig  up  the  roots  with  an  old  knife,  and  if  necessary  sow 
fresh  seed. 

How  to  Look  After  a  Lawn 

Q.  I  have  recently  sown  down  a  lawn.  Please  give  me  a  few 
hints  on  how  to  attend  to  it  during  the  season. — M.  T.  E., 
Hampstead. 

A.  Protecting  the  seeds  until  they  have  taken  root  is  important, 
for  if  left  unprotected  birds  will  destroy  more  than  half  of  them. 
Black  thread  stretched  across  the  ground  helps  to  keep  them  away. 
The  young  grass  as  soon  as  it  starts  grows  rapidly  at  this  time  of  the 
year  (April),  and  at  the  end  of  three  weeks  after  sowing  it  will  have 
made  sufficient  progress  to  be  safe  from  further  molestation.  Other 
means  adopted  for  keeping  birds  away  are  netting,  and  setting  up 
scarecrows  with  old  clothes,  etc.  The  young  grass  should  be  rolled 
as  soon  as  it  has  attained  the  height  of  2  inches.  This  consolidates 
the  soil  round  the  roots,  and  causes  them  to  spread  more  freely. 
For  the  first  three  times  the  young  grass  is  best  cut  with  a  scythe. 
It  should  be  cut  the  first  time  as  soon  as  it  is  6  inches  long  and 
afterwards  every  three  weeks,  when  for  the  rest  of  the  season  the 
lawn  mower  may  be  used,  but  the  knives  of  the  machine  must  not 
be  set  lower  than  ^  inch  from  the  surface  for  the  first  month,  and 
not  at  any  time  to  cut  so  low  as  to  injure  the  heart  of  the  young 
grass  plants.  If  all  has  gone  on  well,  the  lawn  may  be  lightly  used 
for  play  at  the  end  of  the  summer,  but  it  would  be  better  to  defer 
doing  so  until  the  following  season.  Should  the  spring  and  summer 
prove  to  be  exceptionally  dry,  the  grass,  especially  in  the  early 
stages  of  growth,  should  receive  copious  waterings. 

Renovating  the  Lawn 

Q.  Is  the  present  (October)  a  good  time  to  set  about  improving 
a  lawn.  If  so,  what  should  be  done? — Anxious,  Stockport. 

A.  One  may  do  a  great  deal  towards  ensuring  a  good  sward 
by  attending  to  the  lawn  in  the  autumn.  Now  that  the  lawn  mower 
may  almost  be  discontinued,  large  weeds  should  be  dug  out,  the 
holes  filled  with  soil,  and  the  lawn  well  rolled— indeed,  rolling  in 
the  autumn  has  a  very  beneficial  effect,  as  it  keeps  the  worms  down 
and  makes  the  green  firm.  Late  in  the  autumn  is  the  time  to  spread 
over  the  grass  a  light  dressing  of  old  manure  and  soot.  It  may  not 
be  very  sightly,  but  it  does  improve  the  grass,  and  one  can  afford  to 
put  up  with  a  little  unsightliness  during  the  winter  months 


56       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Improving  Neglected  Lawn 

Q.  Would  you  tell  me  what  I  can  do  with  a  lawn  which  has 
been  so  neglected  that  the  greater  part  consists  of  Plaintains.  To 
root  them  up  looks  an  endless  task. — JJox,  Wallingford. 

A.  The  best  and  most  economical  method  of  restoring  a  lawn  is 
to  feed  it  every  autumn  or  spring  time.  Turf  requires  food  like  all 
other  kinds  of  plant.  Use  the  remains  of  a  Cucumber  bed  or,  better 
still,  well  rotted  manure.  Have  it  finely  sifted  and  mixed  with 
loam  or  soil,  and  give  the  turf  a  dressing  of  2  Ib.  to  the  square  yard. 
To  repeat  the  quantity  in  February  or  March  will  do  good.  Plain- 
tains  can  be  removed  by  sulphuric  acid,  1  drop  to  the  crown  of  each 
weed  ;  but  as  it  is  destructive  of  other  than  vegetable  matter  it 
must  be  confined  in  a  bottle,  allowing  only  1  drop  to  escape. 

Moss  On  Walks 

Q.  The  walks  in  my  garden  are  covered  with  moss.  "What  is  the 
best  way  to  get  rid  of  it  ? — E.  J.  K.,  Wallingford. 

A .  The  best  way  to  destroy  moss  on  gravel  walks  is  to  dig  the 
gravel  over,  burying  the  moss  in  the  bottom.  Lay  the  gravel  in 
the  best  position  to  throw  off  the  water,  and  roll  it  down  firmly. 
If  the  walk  cannot  be  turned,  sprinkle  salt  over  the  surface  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  give  it  a  white  appearance,  picking  a  dry 
time  for  the  work  ;  or  use  one  of  the  advertised  weed  killers,  mixed 
in  the  way  advised  by  the  manufacturers.  Moss  is  often  troublesome 
owing  to  the  dampness  of  the  soil ;  and  when  this  is  the  case  nothing 
short  of  draining  the  spot  will  permanently  get  over  the  difficulty. 

Top  Dressing  a  Lawn 

Q.  My  lawn  is  thin  and  the  grass  does  not  seem  to  flourish. 
Would  a  top  dressing  of  manure  improve  it?  if  so,  when  should 
this  be  applied  1 — Lawn,  Herts. 

A.  The  best  time  for  doing  this  is  the  late  autumn ;  the  early 
part  of  November  will  be  found  suitable.  It  would  be  far  better 
to  apply  a  mixture  of  half  rotted  short  manure,  together  with  an 
equal  bulk  of  old  potting  soil  and  a  bag  of  soot,  than  to  apply  soot 
as  a  dressing  alone,  for  we  note  that  the  soil  is  chiefly  sand  and 
is  lacking  in  substance.  Let  the  dressing  be  applied  evenly  all 
over  the  surface  to  the  depth  of  about  1  inch,  and  use  about  half 
as  much  soot  as  potting  soil.  Leave  the  dressing  to  be  washed  in 
by  the  rains.  In  late  January  or  February  the  dressing  should  be 
repeated. 


FLOWER  GARDEN  TRIALS  AND  TROUBLES  57 

When  to  Put  down  Weed  Killer 

Q.  Will  you  advise  me  which  is  the  best  time  of  the  year  to  put 
down  weed  killer  for  the  destruction  of  weeds  on  paths  and  drives 
— in  the  spring,  when  they  begin  to  grow,  or  in  the  autumn  or 
winter  ? — A.  B.,  Saxmundkam. 

A.  The  weed  killer  will  have  a  more  lasting  effect  if  applied  in 


THE  BEAUTIFUL  PALE  BLUE  DELPHINIUM  BELLADONNA  THAT 
COMES  TRUE  FROM  SEED.   HEIGHT  ABOUT  4  FEET. 

spring.  If  applied  in  autumn  or  in  winter,  the  winter  rains  will 
have  the  effect  of  washing  away  its  poisonous  properties,  making 
it  easier  for  weeds  to  make  an  early  growth  again  than  would  be 
the  case  if  applied  in  spring. 

Improving  Lawn 

Q.  1,  how  can  I  improve  my  grass  plot  and  when  should  I  do  it  1 
It  is  very  heavy  ;  the  wet  weather  has  made  it  very  pasty,  and  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  walk  on  it  now  (November).  Appears  to  have 


58       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

been  laid  on  the  heavy  clay  subsoil  without  proper  (if  any)  drainage, 
has  been  neglected  for  many  months.  As  I  am  only  a  tenant  here 
for  a  short  period,  to  take  up  the  turf,  drain  the  soil,  and  relay  are 
out  of  the  question.  2,  what  is  the  enclosed  weed  ?  and  how  can  I 
eradicate  it  from  the  grass  ? — W.  J.  P.,  Hornsey. 

A.  1,  the  best  thing  you  can  do  is  to  put  on  a  good  dressing  of 
gritty  soil,  such  as  road  drift,  during  the  autumn  and  winter  months. 
Two  dressings  will  be  sufficient.  2,  the  weed  you  enclose  is  a  Butter- 
cup (Ranunculus),  and  the  best  way  of  getting  rid  of  it  is  to  put  a  few 
drops  of  oil  of  vitriol  in  the  centre  of  each  plant,  or  pull  up  every 
one,  and  as  their  habit  is  spreading  this  is  a  difficult  matter.  The 
vitriol  is  poisonous,  and  gloves  should  be  worn  when  using  the 
liquid.  The  latter  may  be  dropped  on  the  plants  from  a  notched 
stick. 

Time  to  Apply  Basic  Slag 

Q.  When  is  the  best  time  to  apply  basic  slag  and  how  much 
should  be  given  ? — Ignorant,  Shrewsbury. 

A.  This  is  a  slow  acting  manure,  rich  in  phosphates.  It  should 
be  applied  in  the  autumn,  since  it  is  some  time  before  it  is  rendered 
available  as  plant  food.  The  finer  basic  slag  is  ground  the  more  valu- 
able will  it  prove  as  a  manure.  It  is  not  so  valuable  as  superphos- 
phate for  vegetables,  but  it  is  a  most  suitable  manure  for  lawns. 

Making  Brick  Paths 

Q.  I  should  very  much  like  to  alter  the  paths  in  my  garden  and 
make  them  brick  paved.  Would  it  be  possible  for  me  to  do  it 
myself  1  Are  new  or  old  bricks  to  be  used  ?  Is  mortar  or  cement  of 
any  kind  required  ? — M.  I.  B.,  Surrey. 

A.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  perfectly  level  foundation  for  laying 
bricks  to  form  a  path,  and  they  must  be  cemented  or  concreted 
down,  and  the  cracks  where  they  join  filled  with  the  same  substance. 
There  should  be  a  layer  of  cinders  beneath  the  bricks  some  2  or  3 
inches  thick  to  keep  the  path  dry.  The  only  plan  for  you  to  follow 
would  be  to  find  a  working  bricklayer,  request  him  to  supply  you 
with  good  hard  red  bricks  and  the  necessary  binding  material,  and 
pay  him  a  trifle  for  showing  you  how  to  do  the  work  yourself.  Now 
is  a  good  time  for  the  operation  before  frosts  come.  You  could  place 
the  bricks  say  one  third  or  half  an  inch  apart,  fill  the  cracks  with 
sandy  soil  and  put  Violet  Cress,  Mentha  and  other  tiny  plants 
there. 


60       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Violets  in   Frame   in   Winter 

Q.  Please  tell  me  how  to  provide  for  a  supply  of  Violets  during 
winter. — X:  Y.  Z.,  Reading. 

A.  Make  up  a  hotbed,  half  manure  and  half  leaves,  and  put  in 
the  frame  early  in  September.  Upon  this  place  8  inches  of  soil ; 
turfy  soil  2  parts,  leafy  soil  1  part.  There  must  be  enough  manure 


A   DELL  OF  FORGET-ME-NOTS. 

put  in  to  bring  the  plants  within  2  inches  of  the  glass.  Fill  the 
frame  with  manure  and  leaves,  then  tread  it  firmly,  this  will  be 
about  right.  Plant  the  Violets  ten  days  or  so  afterwards.  Put  them 
10  inches  apart.  Keep  the  frame  closed  for  a  few  days  to  encourage 
them  to  form  fresh  roots.  Subsequently  give  air  on  every  favour- 
able occasion.  They  will  not  bloom  if  the  frame  is  kept  closed. 
Artificial  heat  is  an  advantage,  because  by  this  means  frost  is  easily 
kept  out,  and  the  atmosphere  made  dry.  Good  varieties  are  Marie 
Louise  and  Lady  Hume  Campbell. 

How  to  Grow  Violets 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  when  to  plant  Violets  ?— E.  J/.,  Swansea. 


62       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

A.  The  best  time  to  plant  is  during  April.  The  best  plants  to  buy 
are  rooted  runners.  A  border  should  be  prepared  by  digging 
and  mixing  with  the  soil  well  rotted  manure  and  leaf  soil.  It 
is  not  advisable  to  have  the  border  in  a  shady  spot  as  is  often 
advised ;  the  plants  should  get  several  hours'  sunshine.  Plant 
the  weak  growing  doubles  8  inches,  and  the  strong  growing  single 
sorts  10  to  12  inches  apart.  They  need  little  further  attention 
during  the  summer  months.  Give  water  in  dry  weather  and  a 
dressing  of  manure  to  keep  the  border  cool  and  moist.  In  August 
runners  or  growths  will  appear  ;  these  must  be  cut  off.  By  Septem- 
ber the  plants  will  have  formed  good  clumps ;  towards  the  end  of 
that  month  is  the  best  time  for  planting  Violets  in  frames  for 
winter  flowering.  The  frame  should  be  in  a  sunny  position.  Violets 
are  most  successful  when  grown  fresh  annually.  Some  of  the 
single  sorts  do  pretty  well  if  left  alone  for  two  or  three  years,  but 
most  sorts  thrive  best  if  fresh  beds  from  rooted  offshoots  are 
planted  every  April.  Princess  of  Wales,  Princess  Beatrice  and 
Czar  are  among  the  best  of  the  large  blue-flowered  singles.  Marie 
Louise  is. a  good  double,  lavender  coloured  ;  Lady  Hume  Campbell, 
lavender  blue  ;  Comte  de  Brazza,  white,  and  Mile.  B.  Barron, 
blue,  are  other  good  double  sorts. 

Best  Plants  for  Shady  Border 

Q.  The  best  plants  for  a  shady  border  with  rather  heavy,  moist 
soil. — G.  K.,  Kent. 

A.  Anemone  Japonica  and  varieties,  Kniphofia  (Tritoma), 
Liliums  candidum,  Martagon,  and  croceum,  Senecios  clivorum  and 
Veitchianum,  Primulas  Japonica  and  denticulata,  Aquilegia  (Colum- 
bine), Sedum  spectabile,  Foxgloves,  Primroses,  and  Violets,  hardy 
ferns  in  variety. 

Plants   for  Dry  Border 

Q.  The  best  plants  for  a  dry  border  under  trees.— S.  T.  M.,  Oxford. 

A.  Solomon's  Seal,  Hypericum  calycinum,  Doronicum  Plantagi- 
neum,  Lychnis  coronaria,  Funkia  Sieboldii,  Saponaria  officinalis  flore 
pleno,  Foxgloves,  Periwinkle  (Vinca). 

Plants  for  Warm  Wall 

Q.  I  have  a  brick  wall,  2  feet  6  inches  wide,  10  feet  high,  side  of 
bay  window  facing  south,  now  occupied  by  Virginian  Creeper 
Could  I  train  Ivy  Geranium  or  Solanum  in  place  ? — R.  T.  77.,  Fulham. 

A.  You  must  take  out  every  bit  of  root  of  the  Virginian  Creeper, 


FLOWER  GARDEN  TRIALS  AND  TROUBLES  63 

then  dig  a  hole  2  or  3  feet  square,  and  fill  with  a  mixture  of  the  soil 
taken  out,  fresh  turfy  soil,  a  few  shovels  of  decayed  manure,  and 
some  coarse  sand.  Make  it  firm,  and  leave  for  a  week  to  settle 
before  planting.  Neither  Ivy-leaved  Geranium  nor  Solanum  is 
hardy,  and  would  most  probably  die  in  winter  unless  thoroughly  pro- 
tected. The  best  plant  for  your  purpose  is  Ceanothus  Gloire  de 
Versailles,  a  climbing  shrub  with  beautiful  blue  flowers  in  August. 

How  to  Preserve   Buds  and   Flowers 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  if  there  is  anything  I  can  do  to  preserve 
flowers  after  they  are  cut?—/.  K.t  Wimbledon. 

A.  The  following  method  of  preserving  flower  buds  so  that  they 
will  bloom  long  after  they  are  picked  from  the  plant  will  interest 
you.  Gather  the  buds  when  nearly  ready  to  open,  and  seal  up 
the  ends  of  the  stalks  with  sealing  wax,  wrap  the  buds  in  tissue 
paper,  and  put  them  in  a  tin  box  perfectly  airtight.  When  the  bud 
is  wanted  to  open,  cut  off  the  sealing  wax  and  put  the  stalk  in  water 
to  which  a  little  saltpetre  has  been  added.  The  flowers  can  thus  be 
had  in  bloom  a  month  or  two  later  than  their  usual  season.  I  have 
tried  the  plan  with  Roses  only,  but  I  am  told  it  is  equally  satis- 
factory with  other  tiowers. 

To  prevent   Butterflies  depositing  their  Eggs 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  if  there  is  anything  I  can  do  to  prevent  the 
large  white  Cabbage  butterfly  from  depositing  eggs,  and  so  to  some 
extent  rid  my  garden  of  caterpillars  1 — A.  E.  W.,  Derby. 

A.  The  eggs  of  the  large  white  butterfly  are  laid  in  clusters 
beneath  the  leaves,  but  the  eggs  of  the  small  white,  and  also  of  the 
green  veined  white,  are  laid  singly.  This  is  important,  as  the  eggs 
of  the  first  are  easily  destroyed  by  looking  for  them  as  soon  as  the 
butterflies  are  noticed,  and  the  pieces  of  leaves  covered  with  them 
torn  off  and  burned.  This  method  will  not  answer  for  the  small 
white  or  green  veined  white's  eggs.  You  should  have  the  chrysalids 
searched  for  and  destroyed.  These  are  chiefly  found  in  outhouses, 
potting  sheds,  and  like  places  under  eaves  or  palings,  or  under  pieces 
of  rough  timber.  This  can  be  done  in  winter  time,  and  again  in 
June  or  July  when  the  first  brood  has  pupated,  the  butterflies  you 
recently  saw  being  of  that  generation.  Another  means  of  reducing 
their  numbers  is  to  procure  some  strips  of  tin,  and  as  many  sticks 
pointed  at  one  end  for  thrusting  into  the  ground,  cleft  at  the  top, 
and  so  long  as  to  be  well  above  the  Cabbages.  Affix  the  sticks 
about  6  feet  apart,  smear  the  tin  on  both  sides  with  a  mixture  of 


64       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

resin  and  sweet  oil,  two  thirds  of  the  former  melted,  and  one  third 
of  the  latter,  and  insert  this  in  the  cleft  of  the  stick,  one  for  each. 
The  butterflies  resting  on  the  strips  of  smeared  tin  become  affixed. 

Value  of  House  Slops 

Q.  Are  house  slops  of  any  value  in  the  garden  1— G.  E.  $.,  Bucks. 

A.  If  diluted  with  twice  or  three  times  as  much  water  they  form 
a  valuable  manure  for  such  plants  as  Roses,  Dahlias,  and  all  kinds 
df  herbaceous  plants  grown  in  borders.  However,  we  do  not  advo- 
cate their  use  for  pot  plants. 

Hardy  Flowers  for  Early  August 

Q.  I  want  to  have  my  border  gay  in  early  August.  What  should  I 
plant  1—  W.  F.,  Newcastle-on-Tyne. 

A.  In  your  part  of  North  Britain  you  would  require  varieties 
that  blossom  about  the  third  week  in  the  south  of  England.  You 
will  find  the  following  very  good.  Phloxes  :  Coquelicot,  Fiancee, 
Beranger,  and  Le  Mahdi ;  Monkshood  (Aconitum  Napellus  bicolor), 
Anemone  Japonica  rosea  and  alba,  Anthemis  sulphurea,  Aquilegias 
of  sorts,  Asclepias  tuberosa,  Aster  Bessarabicus,  Plume  Poppy  (Boc- 
conia  cordata),  Bellflower,  Campanula  persicaefolia  Moerheimi, 
Cephalaria  Alpina,  Chrysanthemum  maximum  King  Edward  VII., 
Chelone  barbata,  Coreopsis  grandiflora,  Gaillardia  grandiflora,  Delphi- 
niums of  sorts,  Echinops  ritro,  Geum  Heldreichii,  Sunflower  (Heli- 
anthus  rigidus),  Heuchera  sanguinea,  Inula  Hookerii,  Lychnis  chal- 
cedonica  fl.  pi.,  Papaver  pilosum,  Jacob's  Ladder  (Polemonium 
Richardsom),  Rudbeckia  laciniata  plena,  Scabiosa  Caucasica,  Sta- 
tice  latifolia,  Gypsophila  paniculata,  Torch  Lily  (Kniphofia  corallina 
Pfitzerii). 

Making  a  Small  Pond 

Q.  I  should  be  very  glad  of  directions  as  to  the  making  of  a 
small  pond  in  my  garden.— H.  S.,  WoTcing. 

A.  You  should  excavate  the  soil  to  the  required  depth  and 
then  puddle  the  bottom  and  sides  with  clay,  the  layer  of  clay  being 
at  least  4  inches  thick.  An  edging  of  stones  fixed  with  cement 
would  look  best,  the  stones  being  irregular  in  shape.  Yes  ;  an 
amateur  should  be  able  to  do  the  work.  As  you  intend  to  allow 
ducks  to  go  on  the  pond,  plants  as  an  edging  would  not  answer 
well.  The  excavation  of  the  soil  would  cost  6d.  per  cubic  yard,  but 
the  cost  of  the  carting,  clay,  stones,  cement,  and  other  work  would 
depend  largely  upon  local  charges  and  facilities  for  obtaining  material. 


FLOWER  GARDEN  TRIALS  AND  TROUBLES  65 

Flowering  Plants  for  Heavy  Soil 

Q.  My  garden  soil  is  clayey  and  very  wet  in  winter.  Many  plants 
do  not  thrive.  Can  you  give  me  a  list  of  suitable  sorts  ? — J.  A.  £., 
Southall. 

A.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  the  real  fault  of  your  garden 
lies  in  its  being  badly  drained.  One  row  or  two  rows  of  drainpipes 
placed  about  2  feet  below  the  surface,  with  a  gradual  fall  to  a 
proper  outlet,  would  almost  certainly  improve  the  nature  of  your 
garden  soil.  There  are  certain  flowering  plants  which  thrive  fairly 
well  in  a  soil  such  as  yours.  Thus  in  addition  to  Irises  and 
Montbretias,  both  of  which  flourish  in  your  garden,  you  might 
try  Sunflowers,  Heleniums,  Delphiniums,  Trollius,  Michaelmas 
Daisies,  Hollyhocks,  Lupins,  and  Aconite.  There  are  several 
ornamental  and  flowering  shrubs  that  would  also  give  a  good  account 
of  themselves ;  for  instance,  Wistaria,  Clematis,  and  Lonicera  for 
pergolas  and  arches,  Lilac,  Laburnum,  and  Flowering  Currant  in 
the  shrubbery.  The  application  of  quicklime  when  the  ground  is 
vacant  tends  to  lighten  a  soil ;  fresh  or  green  manure  from  the 
farmyard  should  bs  avoided,  as  it  increases  the  tenacity  of  a  heavy 
clay.  Long  strawy  mmure,  however,  helps  to  lighten  and  aerate 
the  soil  by  means  of  the  small  channels  made  by  the  long  straw. 

A  Common  Disease  of  Aster 

Q.  Please  tell  me  what  is  the  matter  with  the  enclosed  Asters. 
I  shall  probably  lose  all  I  have  through  this  disease.— #.  A.  T., 
Stockport. 

A.  The  plants  are  affected  by  the  disease  popularly  known  as 
blackleg,  the  roots  dying  and  the  rootstem  turning  brown  and  then 
black,  and  this  extending  to  parts  above  ground.  The  plants  become 
stunted,  cease  growing,  and  die.  This  has  been  attributed  to  various 
causes,  such  as  attack  by  a  white  worm,  called  the  Aster  worm 
(Enchytraeus  parvulus),  but  there  is  no  evidence  of  this  pest  in 
your  examples.  The  disease  is  of  a  fungoid  nature  and  a  close  ally 
of  the  sleeping  disease  of  Tomatoes  and  other  plants.  Resting 
spores  remain  dormant  for  a  season,  then  germinate,  forming  a 
mycelium  capable  of  attacking  the  rootlets  of  Asters.  By  this 
mycelium  only  can  the  plants  be  attacked,  all  attempts  to  inoculate 
above  ground  portions  of  the  plant  being  futile.  It  is  suggested  to 
dress  the  ground  with  quicklime  at  the  rate  of  ^  Ib.  per  square 
yard,  slaking  and  mixing  well  with  the  soil,  sprinkling  on  the 
turned  up  surface  2  oz.  of  -kainit,  leaving  for  the  rain  to  wash 

F 


66       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

in.  This  is  preferably  done  in  autumn,  and  in  early  spring,  before 
cropping  again,  the  ground  is  forked  over  and  a  dressing  of  steamed 
bone  meal  applied,  breaking  up  and  mixing  well. 

Wallflowers  Not  a  Success 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  why  my  Wallflowers  are  not  a  success  ]   I 
give  them  ordinary,  careful  treatment. — Disappointed,  Shrewsbvry. 
A.  Exceptionally  firm  planting  is  needed  by  this  plant,  which  can 


HARDY  CYCLAMEN  GROWING  AMONG  FERNS. 

be  seen  flourishing  on  old  walls  where  there  would  seem  to  be  little 
root  hold.  Half  the  Wallflowers  that  turn  yellow  and  die  in 
gardens  do  so  because  winds  have  loosened  them  in  the  soil ;  directly 
they  become  ill  insect  pests  fasten  upon  them,  and  so  wireworms 
and  other  creatures  are  generally  blamed  for  the  mischief  that  was 
first  wrought  by  a  careless  gardener.  Rich  soil  is  needed  for  growing 
fine  flowers ;  it  is  a  customary  error  to  plant  Wallflowers  in  dry, 
stony,  unnourished  ground  just  because  they  are  known  to  live  on 
walls.  If  any  gardener  will  examine  wall  specimens  he  will  not 
find  them  with  large,  lustrous  foliage  and  immense  richly  coloured 
blooms,  such  as  we  now  demand  from  the  bed  and  border  specimens 
— unless  they  have  been  especially  cared  for  in  their  lofty  nooks. 


m 


68       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

The   Best   Bedding   Geranium 

Q.  I  wish  to  have  a  blaze  of  colour  in  one  bed  and  prefer  to  plant 
Geraniums.  Which  is  the  best  variety  1 — Hopeful,  Chester. 

A.  Zonal  Pelargonium  Paul  Crampel  is  described  as  richest  fiery 
scarlet  in  colour,  with  large  flowers  and  trusses  and  fine  foliage.  A 
truer  description  was  never  given  of  a  Zonal  Pelargonium.  Amateurs 
who  have  not  yet  grown  this  variety  in  their  flower  beds  should  do 
so.  To  obtain  the  best  effect  it  is  best  to  allow  each  plant  ample 
space  to  grow  in,  and,  if  possible,  to  devote  one  large  bed  to  them 
rather  than  mix  them  with  other  varieties.  As  a  rule  Zonals  should 
not  be  planted  in  a  rich  soil ;  but  the  soil  may  be  rich  for  Paul 
Crampel.  It  will  then  grow  luxuriantly  and  produce  trusses  of 
flowers  as  large  as  the  crown  of  one's  hat. 

How  to  Grow  the  Flame  Nasturtium 

Q.  Will  you  please  tell  me  the  best  way  to  grow  Tropaeolum 
speciosum  ?  Ought  I  to  start  with  seeds  or  plants  ? — C.  F.,  Colt/ton. 

A.  You  will  have  the  greatest  chance  of  success  with  this  lovely 
flower  if  you  obtain  rhizomes,  or  underground  stems,  which  are  thick 
and  fleshy,  and  somewhat  like  those  of  the  bindweed  in  genera 
appearance.  These  ought  to  be  planted  2  to  3  inches  deep  in  fairly 
good,  moist,  loamy  soil,  in  a  north,  north-west,  or  west  aspect. 
Plant  in  autumn  or  spring.  In  some  gardens  it  grows  like  a  weed, 
whilst  in  others  it  is  most  difficult  to  establish.  There  is  really  no 
accounting  for  its  perverseness  sometimes,  for  .if  the  conditions  under 
which  it  thrives  excellently  in  other  places  are  apparently  copied  in 
every  detail  it  fails  to  succeed. 

Staking  Perennials  and  Berried   Shrubs   for  Wall 

Q.  What  is  the  best  way  to  stake  hardy  perennials  3  to  4  feet 
high  to  maintain  a  natural  appearance  and  afford  protection  from 
high  winds  1  What  are  the  best  berry  bearing  shrubs  suitable  for 
walls  1  also  in  the  form  of  bushes  for  beds  or  borders  ? — A.  £,  Brix- 
ton  Hill. 

A.  There  are  two  ways  open  to  you  in  staking  your  perennials. 
One  method  is  to  tie  four  or  five  stakes  round  each  clump  and  run 
several  rows  of  string  round  them.  The  other  is  to  thin  out  the 
shoots  well,  then  stake  each  one  separately,  taking  care  to  insert  the 
stakes  so  as  to  give  each  plant  its  natural  position.  The  best  ever- 
green wall  shrubs  are  Crataegus  Pyracantha,  C.  crenulata,  Cotone- 
aster  microphylla,  C.  buxifolia,  and  C.  angustifolia.  For  borders  all 


SUCCESSFUL  PLANTING  OF  A  WALL  IN  A  SUBURBAN 
GARDEN. 


70       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

the  above  may  be  grown  except  Cotoneaster  angustifolia,  whilst  in 
addition  Pernettya  mucronata  and  Arbutus  Unedo  for  a  large  grow- 
ing shrub  may  be  included. 

Making  a  Window  Box 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  make  a  few  window  boxes.  Can  you  tell  me 
how  to  proceed  1— Ellen,  S.  Wales. 

A.  Window  boxes  may  be  made  in  a  variety  of  designs  and  with 
many  different  materials.  Small  branches  of  unpeeled  Larch  are 
very  useful  and  effective  for  covering  the  fronts  of  boxes.  They  can 
be  arranged  in  diamond  or  star  patterns,  or  simply  nailed  on  vertically, 
with  the  ends  rounded.  Virgin  cork  can  be  used  in  the  same  way, 
sawing  it  carefully  when  working  out  designs  with  it,  and  breaking 
it  up  roughly  when  making  a  box  with  a  simple  rustic  covering. 
More  elaborate  and  fanciful  boxes  are  made  by  using  hearth  or 
paving  tiles,  and  enclosing  them  within  a  border  of  wooden  mould- 
ing or  wrought  iron-work.  Be  sure  to  make  holes  for  drainage  in 
the  bottom  of  the  box,  and  put  a  strip  of  wood  at  each  end  of  the 
box  to  keep  the  latter  from  contact  with  the  window  sill. 

Should  Gladiolus  Bulbs  be  Lifted? 

Q.  Is  it  wise  or  necessary  to  lift  Gladiolus  bulbs  every  autumn 
and  store  them  during  winter  ?—  W.  M.t  Stafford. 

A.  Only  a  few  Gladioli,  principally  natives  of  Europe  and  Asia 
Minor,  are  quite  hardy  in  the  greater  portion  of  the  British  Isles. 
The  others  are  best  treated  as  half  hardy  subjects,  that  is,  the  bulbs 
should  be  lifted  in  the  autumn  when  the  leaves  become  yellow 
throughout.  Store  them  in  a  cool  place  where  the  frost  cannot 
reach  them  until  late  March  or  early  April,  when  they  should  be 
planted  out. 

Carnations  and  Dahlias  for    Exhibition 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  of  a  selection  of  first  class  varieties  of  Carn- 
ations and  Dahlias  that  have  figured  prominently  at  recent  shows. 
— Carnation,  Lanes. 

A.  The  following  Carnations  and  Picotees  are  selected  from  the 
best  stands  shown  at  recent  exhibitions  :  Carnations — Sir  Galahad 
and  Mrs.  Eric  Hambro,  white ;  Seagull,  blush ;  Daffodil,  yellow  ; 
Carmania,  pink ;  Bonnie  Dundee,  scarlet  ;  W.  H.  Parton,  deep 
crimson  ;  Cantor,  purple.  Picotees— Miss  Evelyn  Cartwright,  light 
red  edge  ;  Lady  Douglas  Galton  and  Togo,  yellow  ground ;  Amy 


FLOWER  GARDEN  TRIALS  AND  TROUBLES  71 

Robsart,  heavy  purple  edge  ;  Carrie  Goodfellow,  scarlet  edge.  The 
Dahlias  which  follow  are  arranged  according  to  the  average  number 
of  times  they  have  been  staged  at  the  National  Dahlia  Society's 
exhibitions  held  in  recent  years.  Six  Cactus  Dahlias— J.  B.  Riding, 
J.  H.  Jackson,  Pearl,  Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  Florence  M.  Stredwick, 
and  Nelson.  Four  Show  or  Fancy  Dahlias— R.  T.  Rawlings,  Mrs. 
Gladstone,  John  Walker,  and  Duchess  of  York.  This  year's  novelty 


PAEONY    FLOWERED   DAHLIAS. 

Tom  Jones,  is  also  worthy  of  a  place.      Four  Pompons — Bacchus, 
Nerissa,  Tommy  Keith,  and  Darkest  of  All. 

Forty  of  the  Best  Cactus  Dahlias 

Q.  I  enclose  a  list  of  Dahlias  (grown  this  year)  which,  thanks  to 
The  Gardener,  I  have  been  very  successful  with,  and  would  be  very 
pleased  if  you  would  kindly  correct  the  list  so  as  to  represent  forty 
of  the  best  Dahlias  up  to  date.  Alpha,  Beacon,  Britannia,  Columbia, 
Coronation,  Cloth  of  Silver,  Cockatoo,  Dainty,  Daisy,  Daisy  Easton, 
Flag  of  Truce,  F.  M.  Stredwick,  Fairy,  Harbour  Lights,  H.  W.  Sillem, 


72       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Hyacinth,  H.  Shoesmith,  J.  H.  Jackson,  J.  B.  Riding,  Kathleen 
Bryant,  Lord  of  Manor,  Manxman,  Mrs.  Grinstead,  Mrs.  Castleton, 
Mrs.  Wilkinson,  Mrs.  McMillan,  Primrose,  Pilot,  Pearl,  Pink  Pearl, 
Pink  Perfection,  Purple  Jackson,  Rev.  A.  Hall,  Red  Rover,  Star, 
T.  Parkin,  T.  G.  Baker,  Victorian,  Wm.  Marshall,  White  Swan.— 
/.  B.,  Aintree. 

A.  Your  list  is  a  fairly  comprehensive  one,  and  includes  prac- 
tically all  the  older  sorts  worth  growing.  In  weeding  out  the  inferior 
sorts,  we  should  recommend  omitting  the  following  :  Alpha,  Beacon, 
Dainty,  Red  Rover,  Fairy,  Coronation,  Manxman,  Pearl,  Pink 
Perfection,  Daisy,  Britannia,  and  Pink  Pearl,  and  in  place  of  these 
add  Snowdon,  white ;  Rev.  Jamieson,  pink ;  Saxonia,  crimson  ; 
Brigadier,  bright  crimson  ;  Monarch,  bronzy  red  ;  Harold  Peerman, 
yellow  ;  Mercury,  yellow  striped  crimson  ;  C.  E.  Wilkins,  salmon, 
pink  ;  Flame,  scarlet ;  Ivernia,  fawn  ;  Helium,  yellow  and  orange  ; 
and  Nelly  Riding,  crimson  tipped  white.  This  would  bring  your 
collection  right  up  to  date.  We  might,  however,  point  out  that  for 
garden  decoration  only  some  of  the  sorts  discarded  are  very  useful 
but  we  take  it  exhibiting  is  your  chief  aim. 

Failure  with  Tufted  Pansies 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  of  a  few  hints  as  to  the  cultivation  of  these, 
I  seem  to  have  little  success  with  them.  They  appear  to  be 
attacked  by  some  disease. — B.  S.  K.,  Lincoln. 

A.  In  October  or  November  the  plants  may  be  lifted  and 
divided.  In  dividing,  each  portion  should  have  a  few  young  growths 
and  some  roots  ;  place  them  in  rows  6  inches  apart  and  3  inches  from 
plant  to  plant  in  any  convenient  ground  of  a  friable  soil.  Dust 
lightly  with  air  slaked  lime  and  soot  to  keep  down  slugs  and  other 
predatory  pests.  The  plants  can  be  lifted  carefully  in  early  spring, 
say  February  or  as  soon  as  the  weather  permits  afterwards,  and 
placed  in  the  flowering  quarters.  This  procedure  gives  opportunities 
for  manuring  and  preparing  the  ground  for  their  reception .  Those 
plants  that  have  turned  quite  yellow  in  the  leaf  and  appear  to 
be  dead  at  the  roots,  should  be  cleared  away  and  burned,  removing 
as  much  of  the  rootstem  as  possible.  It  is  evident  that  they  are 
infested  by  the  Viola  mould.  The  fungus  is  tided  over  winter 
by  resting  spores  in  the  rootstems  of  the  diseased  and  dead  plants, 
hence  the  need  for  their  removal.  They  should  not  occupy  the  same 
ground  again  for  a  year  at  least.  The  ground  where  the  collapsed 
plants  have  been  should  be  given  a  dressing  of  basic  slag,  1  Ib.  per 


74       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

square  yard,  and  6  oz.  of  kainit,  digging  in  about  6  inches  deep. 
Leave  the  soil  rough  during  winter,  and  in  February  fork  over  a  spit 
deep,  mixing  and  breaking  up  well  by  taking  small  spits. 

Plants  for  Bank 

Q.  My  house  is  one  of  a  terrace  facing  south-east,  on  high  ground 
facing  the  sea.  In  front  is  a  stiff  bank,  the  soil  of  which  is  shallow. 
Nothing  has  grown  there  yet  but  weeds.  Could  you  recommend  or 
suggest  an  economical  way  of  laying  it  out  1  It  is  too  stiff  for  grass, 


CROCUSES  IN  THE  GRASS. 

as  I  could  not  use  a  mower.      I  have  thought  of  dwarf  shrubs  or  Ice 
Plant.— T.  H.  W.,  Dover. 

A.  You  could  c6Ver  your  bank  effectively,  and  at  the  same  time 
make  it  so  that  it  could  be  easily  kept  at  little  or  no  after  cost,  by 
planting  groups  of  various  free  growing  shrubs,  such  as  double  Gorse, 
French  Gorse,  Cornish  Heath,  Ling,  Heather,  Lavender,  Cistuses, 
Rock  Roses  (Heliantheinums),  Cotton  Lavender,  and  Genista  pilosa. 
Plant  large  irregular  shaped  masses  of  each  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  different  sorts  of  things  run  one  into  the  other,  in  a  natural 
manner.  Such  a  method  of  planting  forms  one  of  the  very  best 
kinds  of  wild  gardening,  for  an  ugly  bank  can  be  made  effective 


FLOWER  GARDEN  TRIALS  AND  TROUBLES  75 


during  the  whole  of  the  year,  and  gives  exceedingly  little  trouble 
when  the  plants  are  once  established.  You  could,  of  course,  use  Ice 
Plants  (Mesembryanthemums),  but  the  other  things  would  have  the 
best  appearance . 
If  you  desired  it, 
a  few  flowering 
trees  could  be  in- 
troduced if  the 
position  is  not  too 
wind  swept. 

Hardy  Flowers 
for  Sunny  Bor- 
der 

Q.  Can  you  sug- 
gest hardy  peren- 
nials for  a  sunny 
dry  border  backed 
with  a  3  feet  wall  ? 
Border  faces  south, 
but  gets  some 
shade  from  a  large 
Pear  tree.  From 
the  rough  plan  I 
enclose,  you  will 
see  I  have  Holly- 
hocks next  the 
wall,  then  a  gap 
of  2  feet  at  present 
planted  with  Can- 
terbury Bells,  and 
some  bedd  ing 
plants  in  front.  I 
propose  putting 
Brompton  Stocks 
in  the  gap  this 
autumn,  but  want 
to  put  other  plants  as  well  in  between  to  flower  later.  I  want  them 
to  be  about  3  feet  high  to  hide  unsightly  stalks  of  Hollyhocks. 
White  Phlox  would  look  well,  but  in  such  a  hot  position  would  not 
last  any  time.  I  do  not  care  for  yellow  as  it  clashes  so  with  bed- 
ding plants.  I  thought  of  Gypsophila,  which  does  well  here,  witli 


HARDY    PRIMULAS  IN   A   GARDEN    IN    THE 
NORTH   OF  ENGLAND. 


76       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

perhaps  a  few  Phloxes  in  between.  Is  there  a  flowering  shrub  that 
would  do  in  such  a  border  as  mine  1  Also  would  you  be  good  enough 
to  tell  me  how  you  increase  Gypsophila  and  when  is  the  time  to  do  it  1 
I  buy  small  roots.  The  first  year  they  do  not  do  much,  but  the 
second  they  are  1  yard  across.  Our  soil  is  light  but  good. — To  and 
Fro,  Kent. 

A.  Certainly  Gypsophila  would  do  well  in  such  a  position,  but 
Phlox  requires  a  very  moist  soil,  and  unless  you  can  plant  in  a  sunk 
bed  and  flood  them  well  in  summer  we  should  advise  you  to  omit 
these  plants.  Some  of  the  large  flowered  Ox-eye  Daisies,  such  as 
Chrysanthemum  maximum  M.  Prichard,  would  be  fine.  Achillea 
The  Pearl  is  a  -fine  showy  plant.  Hydrangea  paniculata  would  be 
very  beautiful,  so  also  would  Philadelphus  Lemoinei  erectus,  which 
flowers  earlier  than  the  Hydrangea.  Then  there  are  some  of  the 
white  flowered  hardy  Chrysanthemums  such  as  Belle  Chatelaine,  and 
white  flowered  Michaelmas  Daisies  such  as  polyphyllus.  Aster 
vimineus  is  also  a  charming  small  flowered  plant.  You  can  in- 
crease Gypsophila  paniculata  by  seed  or  cuttings.  Sow  the  seeds  in 
March  and  transplant  the  seedlings. 

Pruning  White  Jessamine 

Q.  There  is  a  White  Jessamine  covering  an  arbour  in  my  garden. 
It  is  a  thicket  of  growth.  How  should  I  prune  it?— W.  J.  (7., 
Wimbledon. 

A.  You  may  allow  a  few  main  branches  to  remain  almost  their 
full  length  to  form  a  base  from  which  the  flowering  branches  will 
spring.  The  secondary  branches  may  then  be  cut  well  back  during 
winter  to  within  1  foot  or  even  less,  say  two  or  three  buds,  of  the 
base  of  the  previous  year's  shoots.  The  mass  of  branches  which 
usually  form  at  the  base  of  such  plants  should  be  cut  away  each  year, 
as  they  never  flower  satisfactorily  and  only  serve  to  weaken  the 
plant.  Do  not  allow  too  many  main  branches  to  remain,  or  they  will 
choke  the  plant  up.  The  object  should  be  to  let  as  much  sunlight 
and  air  as  possible  have  free  access  to  all  parts  of  the  plant. 

Making  the  most  of  a  Garden  Frame 

Q.  I  have  a  garden  frame.  How  can  I  use  it  to  the  best  advan- 
tage 1  -  M.  M.,  Worthing. 

A.  The  frame  comes  in  very  useful  for  salads,  Strawberries,  etc., 
early  in  the  season.  It  may  also  be  usefully  employed  to  grow 
Cucumbers  in  during  summer.  I  have  wintered  Cauliflowers, 


FLOWER  GARDEN  TRIALS  AND  TROUBLES  77 

Lettuce,  and  Calceolarias,  protected  Strawberries  intended  for 
forcing,  hardened  off  bedding  plants,  and  still  had  a  good  crop  of 
summer  Cucumbers  out  of  the  same  pit,  and  with  very  little  trouble 
indeed.  Half  hardy  and  deciduous  ferns,  and  plants  intended  for 
forcing,  may  be  wintered  therein  with  safety  by  simply  throwing  a 
few  mats  over  the  lights  at  night  and  during  sharp  weather  ;  while 
in  the  early  spring  a  crop  of  early  Potatoes  and  Radishes  may  be 
had,  and  these  may  be  got  out  early  enough  for  growing  Cucumbers 
and  for  ordinary  propagating  purposes.  For.  raising  seeds  not  re- 
quiring bottom  heat  I  have  found  them  of  the  greatest  service — in 
fact,  a  cold  frame  need  never  be  empty  at  any  period  of  the  year. 
From  March  until  the  end  of  May  they  may  be  occupied  in  harden- 
ing off  Celery,  Dahlias  and  other  bedding  plants,  and  from  that 
time  until  the  month  of  September  by  crops  of  Cucumbers  and 
Melons,  and  in  bringing  on  such  subjects  as  Fuchsias,  Petunias, 
Pelargoniums,  Balsams,  etc. ;  from  September  till  spring  comes 
round  again  they  may  be  filled  with  Cauliflowers^  Calceolarias,  and 
Strawberries  that  are  intended  for  forcing  purposes,  and  may  be  used 
for  protecting  winter  salads,  or  anything  of  a  half  hardy  nature. 

Bulbs  for  Early  Flowering 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  which  are  the  most  suitable  bulbs  for  forcing 
into  bloom  quite  early,  so  as  to  have  flowers  to  cut,  say,  in  January. — 
E.  T.  W.,  Hendon. 

A.  For  ease  in  culture  and  forcing  into  flower  the  amateur  will 
find  Roman  Hyacinths  and  the  Paper  White  Narcissi  the  best  bulbs 
to  secure.  Pot  in  August  and  September.  Bunch  flowered  Narcissi 
are  useful  when  good  bulbs  are  secured,  but  we  have  never  found 
them  give  such  satisfaction  in  a  general  way  as  do  the  Paper  Whites. 
Place  Roman  Hyacinths  as  close  together  as  they  will  go  in  5-  to  6-inch 
pots,  and  the  Narcissi  may  well  go  into  those  7  and  8  inches  in  diame- 
ter. Boxes  can,  of  course,  be  used  for  both  kinds  of  bulb,  but  these 
are  more  suitable  for  the  large  grower  than  the  amateur  with 
perhaps,  one  small  house  and  a  frame  or  two.  Early  Tulips  of  the 
Van  Thol  section  may  be  secured  and  potted  in  September ;  these 
are  small  and  not  in  such  favour  as  are  the  larger  flowering  sorts, 
but  they  are  bright  and,  on  account  of  their  early  flowering  tendency, 
extremely  useful. 

Montbretias  not  Flowering 

Q.  I  cannot  understand  how  it  is  that  my  Montbretias  do  not 
bloom  regularly.  They  are  in  good  soil. — Amateur,  Southampton. 


78       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

A.  Almost  every  year  we  hear  complaints  regarding  Montbretias 
failing  to  bloom,  and  questions  as  to  the  cause  of  this.  In  at  least 
nine  cases  out  of  ten  this  reluctance  to  bloom  can  be  traced  to 
similar  causes.  The  mistake  is  made  of  leaving  the  bulbs  in  one 
position  year  after  year,  and  as  they  increase  so  rapidly  the  soil 
becomes  impoverished,  the  result  being  inevitable — little  or  no  bloom. 
But  if  they  are  lifted,  divided,  and  replanted  about  every  three  years, 
very  different  results  will  be  obtained.  Choose  the  sunniest  position 
possible. 

About  Anemones 

Q.  The  best  soil,  position,  and  time  to  plant  Anemones. — G.  E.> 
Surrey. 

A.  The  Anemones  about  which,  we  presume,  you  require  inform- 
ation are  the  Poppy  Anemone  (A.  coronaria),  the  Scarlet  Windflower 
(A.  fulgens),  and  the  St.  Brigid  varieties.  The  position  must  be  a 
sunny  one,  the  best  time  to  plant  is  September  and  October,  although 
it  may  be  done  as  late  as  the  end  of  January.  They  thrive  in  well 
drained,  light  sandy  soils,  which  should  be  freely  manured.  A  mulch- 
ing of  leaf  mould  is  very  beneficial  early  in  the  year.  Plant  the  roots 
about  3  inches  deep,  and  4  to  6  inches  apart  according  to  size. 

Keeping  Dahlias  Through  the  Winter 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  how .  to  keep  Dahlias  through  the  winter  ? — 
Alpha,  Bermondsey. 

A.  Do  not  cut  the  plants  down  until  the  frost  has  well 
blackened  them,  and  sever  them  about  1  foot  above  the  ground, 
attaching  the  label  of  each  securely  to  the  stem.  The  lifting  of 
the  roots  should  be  very  carefully  performed,  using  a  fork.  Do  not 
be  particular  about  removing  too  much  soil ;  it  affords  little  protection 
to  the  tubers.  The  roots  should  be  thoroughly  dry  before  storing, 
but  this  must  not  be  accomplished  by  artificial  means ;  if  there 
is  no  sun  place  them  in  a  cool,  airy  position,  free  from  damp,  and  in 
a  day  or  so  they  should  be  ready  for  their  winter  quarters.  A 
dry,  frostproof  cellar  is  the  best  position  for  them,  but  those  not 
possessed  of  this  accommodation  will  find  a  cupboard  or  some  similar 
place  answer  the  purpose  quite  well,  so  long  as  it  is  dry,  cool,  and 
frostproof.  During  winter  an  occasional  examination  is  necessary 
to  remove  any  roots  that  may  by  chance  have  decayed. 


CHAPTER  V 
The  Greenhouse  Gay 

To  Kill  Green   Fly  in   Greenhouse 

Q.  I  have  a  greenhouse  9  by  5  feet,  and  I  am  removing  into  it 
about  thirty  Chrysanthemums — Japanese  and  incurved  varieties.  I 
want  to  fumigate  them  with  the  XL  ALL  vaporising  compound,  in 
the  liquid  (I  suppose  this  is  one  of  the  best  preparations  for  green  fly, 
etc.  1)  and  should  be  glad  to  know  how  much  liquid  would  be 
required  to  fumigate  them.  Would  it  in  any  way  injure  the  flowers  if 
they  were  in  bloom  when  it  was  done  ?  —  Constant  Reader,  Ulverston. 

A.  Yes;  if  you  use  XL  ALL  vaporising  compound  according  to 
the  instructions  given  with  it,  all  the  insect  pests  will  be  killed. 
Place  the  lamp  on  the  ground  near  the  centre  of  the  house.  A 
dessertspoonful  would  not  be  sufficient,  but  a  tablespoonful  would. 
Keep  the  ventilators  closed  all  night,  opening  them  the  following 
morning.  If  not  successful  the  first  night  use  the  compound  again  the 
following  night.  If  the  flowers  are  dry  they  will  not  be  damaged. 

Fern   Fronds   Turning   White 

Q.  I  enclose  a  fern  frond.  Could  you  tell  me  what  is  the  reason 
for  its  turning  white  like  that  ?  I  have  several  varieties  of  this  fern, 
and  they  all  are  attacked  by  insects. — H.  T.,  Macclesjield. 

A.  The  reason  for  your  fern  fronds  turning  white,  as  you  describe, 
is  that  they  are  covered  with  the  small  insect  known  to  gardeners  as 
thrips.  The  insect  is  known  scientifically  as  Heliothrips  adomdum, 
and  feeds  on  almost  any  kind  of  plants.  The  insects  are  usually 
most  prevalent  on  plants  that  are  growing  in  a  temperature  that  is 
too  high  and  ,an  atmosphere  that  is  too  dry  for  them,  and  a  bad 
attack  is  a  serious  matter  and  denotes  bad  culture.  Your  best  plan 
is  to  cut  away  all  the  worst  of  the  fronds,  and  burn  them.  Then  dip 
the  plants  in  an  insecticide,  such  as  Fir  tree  oil  mixture  or  a  nicotine 
mixture,  several  days  running,  and  well  fumigate  the  houfe  once  a 
fortnight  for  the  next  two  months.  Lower  the  temperature,  keep 
the  house  well  damped  down  and  the  plants  well  syringed,  and  you 
will  soon  see  an  improvement. 

79 


80       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Heating  Apparatus  for   Small    Greenhouse 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  of  your  advice  as  to  the  best  method  of  heating 
my  greenhouse.—  W.  X.  Y.,  Rutland. 

A.  Small  oil  stoves  are  very  cheap,  and  fairly  effective  in  keeping 
out  frost ;  but  they  require  very  careful  attention,  else  the  fumes 
would  be  injurious  to  your  plants.  A  small  boiler  (tenant's  fixture), 
such  as  the  Loughborough  or  Invincible,  would  be  the  most  satis- 
factory for  you  in  every  way.  Such  a  boiler  costs  about  £2  10s.,  and 


1 


CUTTINGS   OF  TUFTED   PANSIES.      ONE  BAD  CUTTING  ON  THE 
LEFT,    THREE  GOOD  ON  THE  BIGHT. 

the  pipes  are  not  expensive.  These  boilers  are  fixed  in  the  wall  of 
the  house,  are  fed  from  the  outside,  and  the  chimney  is  also  outside. 
They  maintain  a  good,  steady  heat,  and  are  quite  safe  and  most 
efficient. 

Maidenhair  Fern  in  Winter 

Q.  Can  I  keep  Maidenhair  Ferns  nice  and  green  throughout  the 
winter  ]  and  if  so,  what  do  they  require  1 — X.  Y.  Z.,  London. 

A.  Yes  ;  you  can  keep  your  ferns  green  throughout  the  winter,  for 
it  is  not  natural  for  them  to  die  down.  You  do  not  say  whether  you 
have  got  them  in  a  greenhouse  or  dwelling  room.  If  they  are  in  a 


THE  GREENHOUSE  GAY 


81 


greenhouse  a  minimum  temperature  of  45°  to  50°  Fah.  and  a  maxi- 
mum of  50°  to  55°  should  be  kept.  The  pots  should  be  stood  on  a 
cool  ash  or  pebble  bottomed  stage,  and  the  stage  and  floors  of  the 
house  should  be  damped  down  twice  a  day,  to  keep  the  atmosphere 
moist.  Do  not  let  the  plants  become  dry,  but  at  the  same  time  be 
careful  not  to  over  water  them  ;  they  will  not  require  more  than 
half  the  water  they  did  in  summer.  About  once  every  ten  days  give 
a  little  weak  manure  water  if  the  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots,  but 


WELL,  GROWN  HYDRANGEA  PLANTS,    TWO  YEARS  OLD. 

not  otherwise.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  insects,  and  if  thrips 
appear  fumigate  lightly  two  or  three  nights  running.  If  in  a  dwell- 
ing room,  much  the  same  treatment  will  be  necessary  :  keep  out  of 
draughts,  and  in  the  event  of  cold  nights  stand  the  plants  away 
from  the  windows. 

Hydrangeas  not   Flowering 

Q.  I  have  about  500  Hydrangeas  in  5-inch  pots  ;  for  some  reason 
they  did  not  flower  this  spring.  They  have  been  outside  since  June, 
the  wood  now  (September)  being  well  ripened.  I  want  to  get  them 
in  flower  by  the  middle  of  May  next.  Will  you  kindly  say  when  to 
cut  down  and  subsequent  treatment  1— H.  P.,  Appleby. 


82       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

A.  As  the  wood  is  well  ripened  you  should  plunge  the  pots  in 
ashes  or  tree  leaves  during  the  winter,  and  then  put  the  plants  in 
warmth  in  spring,  in  order  to  get  flowers  by  the  middle  of  May.  If 
you  can  spare  a  cool  frame,  put  the  plants  in  it,  and  protect  them 
only  from  frosts.  It  will  not  be  necessary  to  cut  down  the  plants 
really,  but  to  lengthen  the  flowering  period  you  may  cut  down  some 
of  them  to  good  basal  buds  when  you  place  them  in  heat  in  the  new 
year.  Feed  liberally  when  the  flower  buds  commence  to  develop. 

Keeping  Pansy  Cuttings  through  the  Winter 

Q.  I  wish  to  know  if  the  cuttings  from  Pansies  will  keep  during 
the  winter  in  an  attic,  and  if  so,  should  I  cover  with  anything  to 
protect  from  cold  ?  I  do  not  possess  a  greenhouse. — (7.  /.  W.t  Kent. 

A.  It  is  not  necessary  to  put  Pansies  in  either  a  greenhouse  or 
attic  in  order  to  keep  them  through  the  winter.  If  subjected  to  such 
treatment  the  plants  would  be  greatly  weakened.  Make  up  a  nice 
bed- in  the  garden,  and  grow  the  young  plants  there.  If  very  severe 
weather  comes  fix  a  few  arched  sticks  in  the  border  and  then  put 
mats  on  them. 

Cineraria  and  Calceolaria  during   Winter 

Q.  Can  I  keep  these  plants  during  the  winter  without  artificial 
heat  1 — Enthusiast,  Doncaster. 

A.  The  Calceolarias  will  withstand  a  lower  temperature  than 
Cinerarias,  but  neither  will  survive  being  frozen.  If  the  winter 
proves  to  be  a  mild  one,  and  you  make  provision  for  placing  mats 
over  the  plants  in  frosty  weather,  you  may  succeed  in  keeping  these 
plants  through  the  winter  in  an  unheated  greenhouse. 

All  about  Fuchsias 

Q.  Would  you  give  a  few  practical  notes  on  growing  Fuchsias 
as  I  am  anxious  to  take  up  their  cultivation  1—Sunbury. 

A.  Fuchsias  may  be  grown  in  pots  for  the  greenhouse  or  window  ; 
in  window  boxes  either  as  tall  plants  or  trained  to  hang  down  over 
the  front  of  the  boxes;  in  baskets  hanging  from  the  greenhouse 
roof,  in  the  flower  garden,  and  in  tubs.  A  half  shaded  position  is 
one  in  which  few  flowering  plants  do  well,  yet  for  a  window  box  with 
a  northern  aspect  Fuchsias  are  the  first  plants  I  would  recommend. 
Varying  weather  conditions  in  summer  have  comparatively  little 
effect  on  Fuchsias.  They  are  increased  best  by  cuttings.  Spring  is 
the  best  time  to  put  in  cuttings.  Vigorous  young  growths  should  be 


THE   GREENHOUSE   GAY  83 

selected  2  to  3  inches  in  length.  Remove  the  leaves  from  the  lower 
half  of  the  cutting  close  to  the  stem  with  a  sharp  knife,  cutting  the 
stem  through  immediately  below  the  joint.  One  cutting  may  be 
placed  in  the  centre  of  a  small  pot,  or  several  round  the  side  of  one  4 
inches  in  diameter.  A  suitable  soil  consists  of  equal  parts  of  loam 
and  leaf  mould,  with  which  should  be  mixed  plenty  of  sand.  Fuchsia 
cuttings  will  readily  root  under  a  bellglass  or  cloche  in  the  window 
of  a  dwelling  house,  or,  better  still,  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  The 
young  plants  will  soon  require  potting,  one  being  placed  in  a  pot 
1|  inches  across.  If  grown  for  the  greenhouse  or  window,  or  for 
planting  outside  during  the  summer  months,  the  tip  of  the  young 
shoot  is  removed  when  the  plants  are  4  to  6  inches  high.  To  obtain 
tall  pyramids  the  central  shoot  is  supported  by  a  strong  stake,  the 
side  growths  also  being  encouraged.  The  latter  must  be  stopped 
as  often  as  each  shoot  has  made  two  pairs  of  leaves,  till  the  plant 
attains  the  required  size.  For  hanging  baskets  and  window  boxes 
I  can  strongly  recommend  Scarcity  and  Madame.  Cornellison.  It 
will  be  found  most  convenient  to  use  wire  baskets,  working  the 
young  plants  at  suitable  distances  between  the  wires.  Remove 
the  tips  of  the  shoots  when  the  young  plants  are  3  inches  high.  To 
prevent  the  soil  falling  between  the  wires  line  the  baskets  with 
moss.  Standard  Fuchsias  are  obtained  by  restricting  each  plant  to 
one  growth,  removing  all  side  shoots  till  the  required  height  is 
reached.  The  top  of  the  plant  is  then  cut  off  and  the  points  of  the 
new  shoots  removed  at  intervals,  to  induce  other  growths  to  form  a 
head.  Good  varieties  are— Single  :  Madame  Cornellison,  white,  red 
calyx  ;  Improved  Rose  of  Castile,  purple,  white  calyx ;  Scarcity, 
dark  carmine  red,  light  red  calyx ;  Amy  Lye,  salmon,  white  calyx  ; 
Mrs.  Rundle,  salmon,  flesh  calyx  ;  Marirka,  red  self.  Double  : 
Ballet  Girl,  white,  red  calyx  ;  Phenomenal  in  three  distinct  colours, 
purple,  rose,  and  white ;  Pythagore,  dark  plum,  red  calyx  ;  and 
Madame  Danjoux,  white  shaded  mauve,  carmine  red  calyx. 

Ventilating  Greenhouse 

Q.  Please  give  me  a  few  hints  on  ventilating  a  greenhouse. — 
R.  T.,  Windsor. 

A.  In  spring  the  ventilation  of  glass  houses  is  an  important 
matter.  The  welfare  of  the  plants  depends  entirely  upon  the 
attention  of  the  owner.  If  an  animal  be  shut  up  and  then  neglected 
it  will  soon  die.  Plants  in  greenhouses  would,  too,  if  the  ventilators 
were  kept  closed  during  the  greater  part  of  each  day,  or  on  some 


BEGONIA  REX,    A  PLANT  WITH  HANDSOME  FOLIAGE  SUITABLE 
FOB  THE  SMALL    GREENHOUSE. 


THIS     BEGONIA     MAY     BE     INCREASED      EASILY      BY      CUTTING 

THROUGH     THE    RIBS     OF     THE    LEAF  AND    PLACING    THIS    ON 

SAND  IN  A  WARM  GREENHOUSE.      LITTLE  PLANTS  WILL  FORM 

AS    SHOWN. 


86       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

days  not  opened  at  all.  In  winter  time  the  plants  would  not  suffer  ; 
but  in  spring  the  young,  tender  shoots  are  growing  and  require 
plenty  of  fresh  air.  But  the  air  must  be  admitted  judiciously  in 
order  to  prevent  cold  draughts  blowing  directly  upon  the  foliage. 
The  top  ventilators  of  a  greenhouse  should,  from  March  onwards,  be 
opened  slightly  at  7  o'clock  on  fine  mornings.  Then  increase  the 
width  a  few  inches  at  9  o'clock,  and  again  at  10  o'clock  ;  and  if  the 
outside  air  be  warm  and  the  sun  shining  brightly,  open  the  front 
ventilators  too  at  the  last  named  hour.  Commence  reducing  the 
amount  of  ventilation  at  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  upper  venti- 
lators may  be  left  open  a  little  way  each  night  during  the  summer. 
Usually  both  doors  and  ventilators  may  be  opened  wide  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  without  detriment  to  the  occupants  of  the  house. 
The  danger  to  avoid  is  keeping  the  house  closed  too  long,  until  the 
interior  becomes  very  hot,  and  then  suddenly  throwing  open  the 
ventilators  and  doors.  The  opening  and  closing  is  best  done 
gradually. 

Marguerite  Leaves  Ruined  by  Insect 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  what  causes  those  white  streaks  in  Marguer- 
ites 1  My  Cinerarias  were  also  similarly  disfigured.  I  can  find  no 
insect.— J?.  M.  C.,  Bolton. 

A.  The  leaves  received  were  badly  attacked  by  the  leaf  mining 
maggot.  Undoubtedly  your  Cinerarias  are  afflicted  in  the  same  way, 
for  the  Cineraria  is  subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  leaf  miner.  The 
larvae  are  living  inside  ;  they  tunnel  their  way  between  the  tissues 
of  the  leaves.  By  holding  the  leaves  to  the  light  the  position, 
of  the  larvae  may  be  readily  seen.  Since  the  culprits  live  within  the 
leaves,  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  get  rid  of  them.  Although  many 
remedies  are  sometimes  recommended,  the  only  certain  cure  is  to 
remove  the  worst  leaves  and  immediately  burn  them,  and  to  kill  the 
other  grubs  by  pressing  them  between  the  finger  and  thumb.  If 
this  method  is  followed  out  from  the  first,  and  good  growing  con- 
ditions are  also  provided,  injury  from  this  pest  will  not  be  very  great. 

Geraniums  for  Winter  Flowering 

Q.  Please  tell  me  when  I  should  take  cuttings  to  raise  a  stock  of 
Geraniums  for  winter  flowering. — E.  J.  K.,  Maldon. 

A.  February  is  the  time  to  insert  cuttings  to  make  strong  plants 
for  flowering  in  the  winter  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  The  best  cuttings 
are  made  from  the  tops  of  plants  which  have  flowered  in  the 


THE  GREENHOUSE  GAY  87 

greenhouse,  but  only  strong  and  sturdy  ones  should  be  selected. 
They  are  best  inserted  singly  in  2j-  or  3-inch  pots,  according  to  their 
size.  Plenty  of  sand  and  a  little  spent  lime  should  be  used  in  the 
compost,  and  the  cuttings  must  be  made  quite  firm  in  the  soil. 
Water  them  in  well,  and  then  stand  them  on  a  light  and  airy  shelf  in 
the  full  sun.  They  will  require  but  little  water  until  rooted,  but  a 
dewing  with  the  syringe  twice  a  day  will  assist  the  emission  of  roots. 
Grow  in  cold  frame  in  summer. 


GOLDEN   BAYED  LILY  (LILIUM  AURATUM)  GROWN  IN, 
FLOWER  POT. 

Gloxinia  Leaves  and  Buds  for  Examination 

Q.  For  several  years  I  have  grown  Gloxinias  very  successfully,  but 
this  year  they  are  proving  a  failure.  I  enclose  leaves  and  buds  for 
your  inspection,  and  shall  be  pleased  if  you  can  suggest  the  cause  and 
a  remedy,  and  how  to  prevent  a  recurrence  next  year. — G.  H.  W., 
Ghelmsford. 

A.  The  leaves  and  buds  are  seriously  damaged  by  the  rust  mite 
(Tarsonymus  tepidariorum),  a  very  pernicious  pest,  as  by  its  punctures 
of  the  leaves  and  tender  parts  of  plants  it  not  only  abstracts  their 
juices  but  causes  the  parts  to  become  stunted,  browned,  and  rusted, 


88       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

checking  growth  and  spoiling  the  appearance  of  the  plants.  It  is  also 
a  very  difficult  pest  to  suppress,  particularly  on  Gloxinias  and  Ges- 
neras,  as  from  the  woolliness  of  their  leaves  they  are  liable  to  be 
seriously  affected  by  an  insecticide.  The  whole  mite  family  have  a 
great  dislike  to  sulphur,  hence  recourse  is  had  to  paraffin  emulsion, 
2  oz.  to  1  gallon  of  water,  adding  ^  oz.  of  sulphide  of  potassium,  and 
using  as  a  spray.  This,  however,  has  a  stunting  effect  on  plants 
with  hairy  leaves,  and  I  find  it  better  to  use  tobacco  water,  or,  better 
still,  nicotine  wash — 1  oz.  nicotine  solution  (98  per  cent.)  to  8|  gallons 
of  rain  water,  and  spray  the  plants  with  this  at  intervals  of  three  or 
four  days  about  three  times,  and  then  at  fortnightly  or  three  weekly 
intervals  to  prevent  recurrence  of  attack. 

How  to  Get  Rid  of  Woodlice 

Q.  My  greenhouse  is  infested  with  woodlice.  How  can  I  get 
rid  of  them  1— E.  K.,  Wimborne. 

A.  The  most  practical  means  of  getting  rid  of  them  is  trapping. 
If  a  little  old  hay  or  dry  moss  is  placed  in  the  bottom  of  a  dirty 
flower  pot  with  a  little  piece  of  cooked  Potato,  the  woodlice  will 
feed  therein  in  great  numbers.  These  traps  should  be  emptied  every 
morning,  this  will  be  found  to  have  a  wonderful  effect  in  lessening 
the  numbers  of  woodlice. 

Green  Fly  in  Conservatory 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  to  know  the  best  means  of  keeping  down 
green  fly  which  swarms  on  Roses  and  other  plants  in  my  conser- 
vatory.— 8.  E.,  Mitcham. 

A.  Undoubtedly  the  best  means  of  keeping  down  green  fly  in 
a  greenhouse  is  by  fumigation.  If  you  are  not  prepared  to  go  to 
the  expense  of  purchasing  the  concentrated  preparations  of  nicotine 
for  fumigating,  the  next  best  thing  for  you  to  do  is  to  purchase 
tobacco  rag  from  a  horticultural  sundriesman.  All  that  is  necessary 
is  to  drop  a  few  handfuls  of  the  tobacco  rag  on  to  two  or  three  red  hot 
pieces  of  coke  from  the  furnace.  Whilst  smoking  it  must  be  care- 
fully watched,  flames  must  be  kept  down,  otherwise  it  will  be 
injurious  to  the  plants  near.  Place  the  red  hot  coke  in  very  small 
heaps  on  the  path  of  the  house  about  15  feet  apart,  and  remove  the 
plants  immediately  over  the  fumes. 

How  to  Grow  Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  grow  this  beautiful  winter  flowering  Begonia. 
Will  you  please  give  me  the  essential  details  of  cultivation  1—Epping. 


THE  GREENHOUSE  GAY  89 

A.  With  a  greenhouse  having  four  rows  of  hot  water  pipes,  it 
should  be  a  comparatively  easy  matter  to  keep  the  house  at  a 
sufficiently  high  temperature  to  suit  the  requirements  of  this  highly 
decorative  Begonia.  A  uniform  night  temperature  of  50°  F.  is  found 
to  suit  very  well ;  in  the  daytime  the  temperature  will,  of  course, 
rise  with  the  heat  of  the  sun,  when  a  little  top  air  should  be 
admitted.  Yes  ;  it  would  be  advisable  to  purchase  plants  now 
(September).  In  reference  to  the  varieties  which  resemble  Gloire  de 
Lorraine,  Turnford  Hall  and  Caledonia  are  the  best  white  forms, 
and  Agatha  has  slightly  larger  flowers  a  little  deeper  in  colour 
than  the  type.  Plants  purchased  now  would  soon  produce  flowers, 
and  these  should  all  be  picked  off  until  the  early  spring,  since  this 
is  the  time  when  it  is  desired  that  they  should  be  in  full  flower. 
Winter  flowering  Begonias  in  general  need  very  careful  watering, 
otherwise  they  will  soon  turn  yellow  and  rot  off  at  the  base.  The 
plants  purchased  at  this  season  should  be  in  their  flowering  pots,  and 
would  simply  require  careful  attention  to  bring  them  into  full 
blossom.  These  Begonias  are  increased  by  means  of  leaf  cuttings 
taken  in  early  spring.  If  a  few  of  the  older  leaves  are  placed  on 
a  bed  of  sand  in  a  propagating  case  in  a  hot  house,  young  plants  will 
form.  When  rooted  these  are  potted  up. 

Taking  Geranium  Cuttings 

Q.  Is  now  (end  of  August)  a  suitable  time  to  take  Geranium 
cuttings  for  bedding  out  next  summer  1 — A.  H^  Finchley. 

A.  Cuttings  for  next  season's  stock  should  be  procured  as  soon 
as  possible.  By  careful  examination  of  the  plants,  cuttings  may  be 
secured  without  spoiling  the  appearance  of  the  flower  beds.  It  is 
always  worth  the  trouble  to  lay  out  the  cuttings  after  being  made  on 
the  floor  of  the  potting  shed  for  two  days,  but  not  to  allow  them  to  dry 
enough  to  cause  the  leaves  to  wither,  only  to  flag  slightly.  Cuttings 
thus  treated  rarely,  if  ever,  damp  off  when  dibbled  into  boxes. 
Another  precaution  should,  however,  be  taken  to  guard  against  this, 
and  that  is  to  stand  the  boxes  of  cuttings  on  trellises  a  few  inches  off 
the  ground. 

Fuchsias  in  Winter 

Q.  Last  winter  I  lost  a  lot  of  my  Fuchsias.  Can  you  tell  me 
how  I  can  preserve  them  safely? — Anxious,  Streatham. 

A.  "  I  put  my  Fuchsias  under  the  stages  last  winter,  and  when  I 
came  to  take  them  out  for  repotting  half  of  them  were  dead."  This 


90       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

is  a  remark  one  often  hears.  They  had  not  suffered  from  excess  of 
moisture,  but  the  reverse,  for  they  were  placed  at  the  back  of  the 
water  pipes,  and  became  dried  up.  These  most  useful  plants  either 
for  greenhouse  or  garden  simply  need  to  be  kept  from  frost  in 
winter  ;  a  cool  shed  is  an  excellent  place,  but  if  they  have  to  be 
located  in  the  greenhouse  they  should  be  kept  from  the  heat  of 
pipes  and  the  constant  drip  of  the  other  plants  on  the  stages  above. 

Plants  for  Greenhouse  in  Winter 

Q.  What  are  the  best  plants  to  put  in  my  conservatory  for  the 
winter  ?  What  in  my  window  boxes  ?  What  should  be  planted  out 
in  the  garden  now  (October)  ?  Would  Geranium  and  Carnation 
cuttings  be  likely  to  thrive  in  the  conservatory  (no  fire)  in  the 
winter?  How  can  I  fill  up  a  draughty  north-east  bed?  What 
soil  should  be  used  for  potting  plants? — W.  W.  W.,  Worthing. 

A.  You  may  have  Azaleas,  Arurn  Lilies,  Deutzias,  Spiraeas, 
Zonal  Pelargoniums,  Cinerarias,  Primulas,  Calceolarias,  winter 
flowering  Begonias,  Cyclamens,  and  various  kinds  of  bulbous  plants 
in  your  conservatory  for  the  winter  months'  display.  In  the  window 
boxes  and  in  the  beds  in  the  garden,  bulbs  such  as  Hyacinths, 
Tulips,  Narcissi,  Snowdrops,  Scilla  sibirica,  Violas,  Wallflowers, 
Myosotis,  Silenes,  Aubrietias,  and  Pansies.  Wallflowers  would  be 
suitable  for  the  draughty  bed.  If  frost  and  excessive  moisture  can 
be  excluded  from  the  greenhouse  Geraniums  and  Fuchsias  would 
live  in  it  through  the  winter.  A  good  general  potting  compost 
consists  of  turfy  soil,  leaf  soil,  and  sand. 

Treatment   of  Various   Orchids 

Q.  Will  you  give  general  instructions  for  treatment  of  Cypripe- 
dium,  Odontoglossum,  Dendrobium,  and  Cattleya? — E.  A.,  Swindon. 

A.  Cypripedium  insigne,  or  Lady's  Slipper,  is  one  of  the  most 
easily  cultivated  of  all  Orchids.  It  succeeds  in  quite  a  cool  house 
with  such  plants  as  Geraniums  and  Cinerarias,  and  may  be  stood  in  a 
cold  frame  in  summer.  It  will  stand  several  years  in  the  same  pans 
without  changing  the  compost,  and  blossom  finely  each  year.  A 
minimum  winter  temperature  of  40°  to  45°  will  suit  it,  though 
a  temperature  5°  higher  will  not  harm  it.  Well  drained  pots  or 
pans  are  absolutely  essential,  and  in  each  case  from  half  to  two-thirds 
of  the  pot  should  be  filled  with  crooks.  The  compost  should  consist 
of  2  parts  of  good  fibrous  peat,  1  part  of  sphagnum,  some  coarse 
pieces  of  sandstone  and  charcoal,  and  clean  crocks.  If  really  good 


THE  GREENHOUSE  GAY  91 

loam  can  be  obtained  a  little  may  be  used  for  C.  insigne.  All  fine 
material  should  be  sifted  out  and  the  rough  pieces  only  used.  Work 
the  compost  lightly  about  the  roots,  and  be  careful  with  watering 
until  roots  are  active.  Keep  the  water  out  of  the  growths  at  all 
times  and  fumigate  frequently  as  a  preventive  of  insects.  Odonto- 
glossum  crispum  and  varieties  must  be  grown  in  quite  a  cool  house 
shaded  from  bright  sun.  By  fire  heat  the  house  should  never  be 
allowed  to  rise  above  40°.  A  compost  similar  to  that  recommended 
for  the  Cypripediums  will  do.  The  Dendrobiums  require  a  high 
temperature,  full  sun,  and  an  atmosphere  heavily  charged  with  mois- 
ture during  the  growing  season.  The  temperature  may  rise  above 
100°  with  sun  heat  and  ought  not  to  drop  below  70°.  When  growth 
is  finished  the  water  supply  should  be  reduced  and  the  plants  placed 
in  a  cooler  house  with  a  drier  atmosphere.  A  shelf  exposed  to  full 
sun  forms  an  ideal  position.  As  the  leaves  die  reduce  the  water 
supply  until  none  at  all  is  given.  When  the  flower  buds  appear  in 
spring  place  the  plants  in  a  warmer  house  again  and  give  water 
sparingly  until  growth  begins.  They  may  be  placed  in  hanging  pots 
or  baskets  in  a  compost  of  fibrous  peat,  sphagnum,  and  charcoal. 
The  Cattleya  may  be  grown  with  the  Cypripediums  and  a  similar 
compost  used.  In  all  cases  keep  the  floors  and  stages  of  the  houses 
damp  and  the  houses  well  ventilated. 

Forcing  Lily  of  the  Valley 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  have  Lilies  of  the  Valley  in  bloom  in  the 
greenhouse  early  in  the  year.  Please  advise. — E,  0.  K.,  Leeds. 

A.  September  is  the  month  in  which  to  pot  the  roots  intended 
for  forcing.  It  is  necessary  to  obtain  plump,  well  matured  crowns 
to  commence  with  or  failure  will  result ;  thus,  if  they  have  to  be 
purchased  it  will  be  better  to  pay  a  little  extra  to  a  reliable  nursery- 
man than  to  buy  rubbish  which  cannot  flower.  In  potting,  use  a 
somewhat  light  compost,  consisting  of  turfy  soil,  leaf  mould,  and 
sand,  placing  six  or  eight  crowns  or  single  roots  in  a  5-inch  pot.  No 
good  will  result  from  cutting  the  roots  about,  unless,  of  course,  they 
are  too  large  for  the  pots,  when  they  may  be  slightly  trimmed.  Let 
the  tops  of  the  crowns  show  just  above  the  soil,  and  water  them  well 
in.  Different  growers  have  different  ideas  regarding  the  later  treat- 
ment of  the  Lilies,  but  a  very  simple  method  is  to  plunge  them  in  a 
box  of  cocoanut  fibre  over  the  hot  water  pipes  in  the  greenhouse, 
well  covering  the  crowns.  It  is  important  to  keep  the  fibre  in  a 
moist  condition,  when  growth  will  soon  commence.  They  can  be 


92       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

removed  when  growing  strongly  and  gradually  introduced  to  the  full 
daylight  to  bring  them  to  their  proper  colour. 

Marguerites  Suddenly  Withering 

Q.  I  am  sending  you  two  Marguerites  which  have  suddenly 
withered  and  died.  I  should  like  to  know  the  reason  why,  as  I 
have  lost  a  good  few  in  this  way.  Other  Marguerites  in  the  same 
beds  and  window  boxes  are  looking  very  healthy.  Last  year  I  lost 
some  in  the  same  way,  plants  very  much  larger  than  those  I  am 
sending  you,  in  fact,  one  measured  over  1  yard  in  diameter.  I 
should  esteem  it  a  favour  if  you  can  tell  the  cause  and  how  to 
remedy  it,  as  I  am  afraid  my  beds  will  soon  begin  to  look  unsightly. 
— Marguerite,  Sussex. 

A.  The  plants  are  infested  by  the  Sclerotium  disease,  a  parasitic 
fungus  which  probably  attacks  and  kills  more  plants  of  different 
species,  and  belonging  to  widely  separated  orders,  than  any  other. 
The  disease  first  shows  itself  in  the  sudden  cessation  of  growth  in 
the  plants.  Upon  examination  the  roots  and  rootstem  are  found  to 
be  dead,  and  on  them,  usually  at  or  near  the  ground  line,  appears  a 
very  delicate  white  mould  encircling  the  stem.  The  mycelium  also 
penetrates  into  the  interior,  and  gradually  extends  upwards.  Finally 
the  stem  becomes  dry  and  brittle  and  falls  down.  The  whitish  fluffy 
mould  first  seen  soon  changes  to  a  brownish  colour,  and  liberates 
clouds  of  minute  spores  when  rubbed.  This  is  the  earliest  and  most 
frequent  form  under  which  the  fungus  appears,  and  is  called  the 
Botrytis  or  summer  stage.  In  Potatoes,  Beans,  and  other  plants 
with  hollow  stems,  the  mycelium  or  spawn  grows  up  inside  the 
stem,  and  there  forms  numerous  irregularly  shaped  solid  bodies 
varying  in  shape  from  that  of  a  Mustard  seed  to  that  of  a  grain  of 
wheat.  In  the  Chrysanthemum  and  other  plants  of  a  semi-ligneous 
nature,  these  bodies  are  formed  just  beneath  the  bark,  anil  somewhat 
more  sparsely  and  much  smaller.  They  are  at  first  white  or  pale  in 
colour,  but  become  black  outside  when  mature,  and  are  called 
sclerotia,  and  give  name  to  the  fungus,  viz.  Sclerotinia  sclerotiorum. 
They  remain  in  this  condition  until  the  following  season,  when, 
owing  to  the  decay  of  the  host  plant  previously,  and  thus  liberated, 
they  produce  spores  which  infest  a  new  crop.  The  prevalence  of 
the  sclerotium  disease  is  due  to  plants  containing  sclerotia  being 
left  on  the  land,  or  in  the  dead  plants  being  thrown  on  the  rubbish 
heap,  and  their  remains  as  vegetable  mould  being  returned  to  the 
land.  It  is  important,  therefore,  to  remove  and  burn  all  plants 


WINDOW    PLANTS  93 

infested  by  the  disease.    Gas  lime  or  quick  lime  should  be  applied 
to  the  land. 

Making  and  Planting  a  Window  Box 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  of  a  few  hints  on  the  above  subject. — Suburban. 

A.  The  box  should  be  made  about  2  inches  wider  than  the 
window  sill,  and  7  inches  deep.  Bore  a  number  of  holes  through 
the  bottom  of  the  box  to  drain  away  all  surplus  water,  and  paint  the 
outside  of  the  box  dark  green.  Use  f-inch  boards.  Wedges  may  be 
used  to  make  the  box  stand  level  on  the  window  sills.  Put  in 
cinders  2  inches  deep  for  drainage,  and  use  a  compost  of  loam  and 
leaf  soil  in  equal  proportions.  Scarlet  Geraniums,  white  Marguerites^ 
and  blue  Lobelia  ;  or  Fuchsias,  single  flowered  Petunias,  and  Lobelia 
would  make  good  combinations.  Put  in  the  plants  in  May.  Carna- 
tions are  admirable  plants  for  a  window  box ;  they  should  be 
allowed  to  droop  over  the  edge. 

Selection  of  Plants  for  Window  Box 

Q.  Will  you  please  give  a  list  of  plants  suitable  for  growing  in  a 
window  box  ?— E.  A.  T.,  Sutton. 

A.  The  following  list  of  plants  that  may  be  grown  in  windows 
will  be  useful  for  reference  :  Bulbs  of  different  sorts,  especially 
Crocuses,  Snowdrops,  and  Hyacinths  ;  Cactus,  various  kinds  ;  Arum 
Lily,  Richardia  aethiopica ;  Campanula  pyramidalis ;  Creeping 
Jenny ;  Echeveria ;  Euonymus  variegatus ;  Indiarubber  Plant, 
Ficus  elastica  :  Fuchsias,  various,  kinds  ;  Geraniums,  various ; 
Hydrangea ;  orange  coloured  Lily,  Imantophyllum ;  Ivy-leaved 
Geranium  ;  Ivies,  various  kinds ;  lemon  scented  Verbena ;  golden 
rayed  Lily,  L.  auratum  ;  Lobelias,  various  kinds ;  Lily  of  the 
Valley ;  Mother  of  Thousands,  Saxif  raga  ;  Musk;  Myrtle;  Oak- 
leaf  Geranium ;  Orange  Tree ;  Saxifrages,  various  sorts ;  Vallota 
purpurea,  Scarboro'  Lily. 

Window  Box  Plants  for  Winter 

f 

Q.  What  can  I  put  in  my  window  boxes  for  the  winter  now  that 
the  Geraniums  and  other  flowers  are  over  1— Anxious,  Bury. 

A.  Window  boxes  are  too  frequently  stored  out  of  sight  at 
this  season ;  but  they  may  be  utilised  for  the  reception  of 
several  different  kinds  of  shrub.  Variegated  Euonymus,  Cupressus, 
Hollies,  Box,  and  others,  can  all  be  purchased  in  small  pots  at  no 
great  price  ;  these,  if  plunged  in  the  soil  of  the  boxes,  with  a  few 
bulbs  intermingled,  will  provide  a  cheerful  if  not  brilliant  display, 


94       GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

which  will  be  found  far  preferable  to  the  blanks  caused  by  the 
removal  of  the  boxes.  Small  plants  of  variegated  Ivy  can  be 
secured  for  draping  the  front  of  the  boxes. 

Treatment  of  Newly  Potted  Bulbs 

Q.  I  am  told  that  newly  potted  bulbs  should  be  plunged  for  five  or 
six  weeks  so  as  to  encourage  the  formation  of  roots  before  top  growth 
starts.  Could  1  use  sawdust  for  covering  them  ? — E.  A.  T.,  Rugby. 

A.  Yes ;  you  may  plunge  the  pots  containing  the  bulbs  in 
sawdust,  but  ordinary  sand  would  be  far  more  suitable— it  is  better 
than  ashes.  Crocuses,  Snowdrops,  Tulips,  Hyacinths  and  Narcissi 
should  all  be  plunged  in  the  same  way. 

Rose  of  Jericho 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  of  a  few  particulars  of  this  extraordinary 
plant. — Amateur,  S.  Wales. 

A.  This  is  a  common  name  for  Anastatica  Hierochuntina,  which 
is  also  known  as  one  of  the  Resurrection  Plants.  This  plant  recovers 
its  original  form,  however  dry  it  may  be,  on  immersion  in  water,  but 
it  is  not  true  that  it  will  come  into  full  flower  in  so  short  a  space  of 
time.  This  curious  plant  is  in  fact  an  annual,  the  leaves  of  which 
fall  off  after  flowering ;  the  branches  and  branchlets  then  become 
dry,  hard,  and  ligneous,  curling  inwards  at  their  extremities.  Even 
after  the  lapse  of  many  years  in  this  dry  state  the  plant  will  resume 
its  vitality  on  being  placed  in  water.  It  is  a  native  of  Syria  and  the 
Mediterranean  region,  and  when  in  a  dry  round  ball  it  is  readily 
blown  about  the  sea  shore.  By  some  commentators  it  is  supposed  to 
be  the  "  rolling  thing  before  the  whirlwind"  mentioned  by  Isaiah. 

About    Tuberoses 

Q.  When  is  the  best  time  to  pot  up  Tuberoses  to  provide  blossom 
in  the  greenhouse  in  summer  ? — E.  K.  J.,  Sussex. 

A.  April  is  a  suitable  time  to  pot  the  bulbs  of  Tuberoses  to 
flower  during  the  summer.  Suitable  pots  are  those  of  the  3£- 
or  4-inch  sizes.  The  Tuberoses  like  turfy  soil,  and  leaf  mould, 
decayed  manure,  and  sand  should  be  included.  It  will  be  necessary 
to  plunge  them  in  cocoanut  fibre,  and  if  this  is  directly  over  the  hot 
water  pipes  so  much  the  better.  One  watering  immediately  after 
potting  is  all  that  is  required  till  growth  commences,  although  if 
close  to  the  pipes  the  fibre  should  be  kept  moist.  When  growing 
freely  remove  to  6- inch  pots,  place  on  a  sunny  shelf,  and  water  more 
liberally,  giving  occasional  applications  of  liquid  manure. 


CHAPTER  VI 
All    about   Chrysanthemums 

Taking  Chrysanthemum   Cuttings 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  when  and  how  to  take  Chrysanthemum 
cuttings?— #.  If.,  Staines. 

A.  When  the  plants  have  finished  flowering  let  them  get  a  little 
dry  at  the  roots,  then  cut  them  down  to  within  6  inches  of  the  soil. 
They  should  be  exposed  to  the  open  air  for  a  day  or  two,  as  this  will 
make  the  cuttings  firm  and  not  so  likely  to  fail.  They  are  best 
struck  in  3-inch  pots,  which  should  be  perfectly  clean  and  well 
crocked  to  ensure  thorough  drainage.  Fill  up  the  pots  nearly  to  the 
rims  with  soil,  and  press  it  down  firmly,  and  over  this  place  a 
sprinkling  of  silver  sand.  The  strongest  cuttings  should  be  selected 
and  taken  off  with  a  sharp  knife  ;  they  should  be  about  3  or  4 
inches  long.  Cut  off  a  few  of  the  lower  leaves,  and  they  will  then 
be  ready  for  inserting  in  the  pots.  Four  or  five  cuttings  should  be 
inserted  round  the  sides  of  the  pots,  and  the  soil  should  be  pressed 
firmly  about  them.  This  done,  sprinkle  them  with  water.  If  the 
cuttings  are  wintered  in  a  frame  the  pots  should  be  placed  on  a  layer 
of  ashes.  Keep  the  frame  shut  up  close  till  the  cuttings  have  taken 
root,  then  admit  air  on  every  favourable  occasion  to  prevent  them 
from  becoming  drawn.  During  frosty  weather  the  frame  should  be 
covered  over  with  mats.  Those  who  have  a  greenhouse  can  winter 
their  cuttings  with  more  ease  and  safety,  and  nothing  suits  them 
better  than  to  be  placed  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass. 

Chrysanthemums  for  blooming  in  November 
and  December 

Q.  Please  give  rne  a  list  of  varieties  that  will  bloom  at  this 
season.  I  shall  grow  them  in  the  border,  and  pot  up  in  September 
and  bring  into  the  greenhouse. — /.  0.  If.,  Wanstead. 

A.  The  following  are  suitable  varieties,  namely,  Source  d'Or ; 
White  and  Yellow  Selborne;  Kathleen  Thompson,  A.  J.  Balfour, 
Mrs.  W.  Knox,  Crimson  Source  d'Or,  Dr.  Enguehard,  Madame  R. 
Oberthur,  Princess  Victoria,  white,  also  yellow  Princess  Victoria, 

95 


OUTDOOK  CHRYSANTHEMUM  MAGGIE  (LIGHT  YELLOW). 


ALL  ABOUT  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  97 

W.  H.  Lincoln,  Tuxedo,  La  Triomphante,  Winter  Cheer,  Souvenir 
d'une  Petite  Amie,  Jason,  Mr.  F.  S.  Vallis,  J.  H.  Silsbury,  Mrs.  G. 
Beach,  L.  Canning,  Mrs.  J.  C.  Neville,  Roi  des  Blancs,  Western 
King,  and  Christmas  Crimson. 

On  "Stopping"  Certain  Chrysanthemums 

Q.  Will  you  give  directions  as  to  stopping  the  shoots  of  the  follow- 
ing varieties?— 0.  T.  E.y  Chester. 

A.  Assuming  that  you  wish  to  grow  the  plants  for  the  production 
of  blooms  for  the  early  November  shows,  you  should  treat  the  plants 
as  follows.  Henry  Perkins  and  Madame  Carnot,  stop  March  20th, 
and  take  second  crown  buds.  Chrysanthemum  Leroux,  Joseph 
Rocher,  Mr.  F.  S.  Vallis,  Countess  of  Warwick,  Capt.  P.  Scott,  and 
George  Lock  should  be  allowed  to  make  natural  breaks,  and  first 
crowns  be  taken  in  August.  Miss  Lily  Mountford,  J.  H.  Silsbury 
and  Vicar  of  Leatherhead,  stop  April  20th,  second  crowns.  Madame 
R.  Oberthur,  Emily  Mileham,  and  Bessie  Godfrey,  stop  May  20th, 
first  crowns.  Miss  Mildred  Ware,  Lady  Randolph,  and  N.C.S. 
Jubilee,  stop  April  10th,  second  crowns.  Ben  Wells,  stop  March  20th, 
second  crowns.  Mrs.  F.  Judson,  stop  May  5th,  first  crowns.  Merst- 
ham  Yellow  is  an  early  flowering  variety,  and  should  only  be  stopped 
once,  at  the  end  of  April.  Western  King  is  a  late  flowering  variety,  and 
should  be  stopped  twice,  in  April  and  in  June. 

How  to  Grow  Chrysanthemums 

Q.  I  have  (November)  bought  three  dozen  Chrysanthemums  in 
bloom;  they  are  in  8-inch  pots.  I  have  had  them  about  five  weeks. 
Some  of  them  are  over  now,  but  there  is  new  growth  starting.  I 
bought  these  with  the  object  of  increasing  them  next  year.  Now 
some  of  my  friends  say  bury  the  pots  as  they  are  in  the  open,  some 
say  stand  them  in  a  cold  frame,  and  all  say  you  will  get  some  shoots 
for  cuttings  next  spring.  I  would  like  your  advice. — H.  W.,  Clissold 
Park. 

A.  When  all  the  flowers  have  faded  place  the  pots  in  a  cold 
frame,  or,  failing  a  frame,  in  a  greenhouse  close  to  the  glass,  to  pre- 
vent the  young  shoots  being  drawn  up  weakly.  Cut  off  the  old 
stems  6  inches  above  the  soil  level ;  they  are  now  useless.  In  March 
next  you  may  use  the  young  sucker  shoots — those  growing  through 
the  soil— for  increasing  the  stock  ;  they  will  root  readily  enough  in 
sandy  soil  when  inserted  as  cuttings.  The  cuttings  will  grow  into 
fine  flowering  plants  next  autumn. 


OUTDOOR  CHRYSANTHEMUM  WHITE   ST.    CROUTTS. 


ALL  ABOUT  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  99 

How  to   Cure   Chrysanthemum   Rust 

Q.  My  plants  are  badly  affected  with  this  reddish  fungus.  What 
can  I  do  to  cure  it  or  prevent  its  appearance  another  year  1 — Anxious, 
tSurbiton. 

A.  Take  the  cuttings  in  December,  sooner  or  later  as  convenient, 
trim  the  leaves  off  the  cuttings,  and  do  not  leave  more  foliage  than 
is  absolutely  necessary  ;  do  not  cut  the  bases  off,  label  each  lot  of 
cuttings,  and  bury  them  in  sulphur  in  a  close  fitting  box — a  biscuit 
box  would  do.  Use  plenty  of  sulphur  so  as  to  cover  the  cuttings. 


CHRYSANTHEMUM   CUTTINGS.      BAD  ON  LEFT  ;     GOOD 
ON  RIGHT. 

Leave  them  in  the  box  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  take  out,  cut  off 
the  bases  and  insert  in  the  usual  way.  The  cuttings  will  nag  a  little, 
but  will  soon  pick  up  after  being  put  in  the  cutting  box.  If 
possible  strike  them  in  another  house,  apart  from  the  house  in  which 
they  flowered,  or  even  in  a  cold  frame.  This  treatment  invariably 
effects  a  cure  :  you  may  follow  it  with  confidence. 


UNSUITABLE  CUTTING,  CONTAINS 
FLOWER  BUD  AT  A.  BUDS 
WILL  FORM  PREMATURELY 
AS  AT  B. 


SUITABLE  CUTTING  PREPARED 
FOR  INSERTION.  LEAF  RE- 
MOVED AT  A,  B,  STEM  CUT 
THROUGH  AT  A. 


STEM  CUTTINGS  (UNSUIT- 
ABLE) ARE  SHOWN  AT  A. 
GOOD  CUTTINGS  (FROM 
SOIL)  ARE  SHOWN  AT  B. 


A  SHOWS  BLUNT  STICK  FOR  MAKING 
HOLE  FOR  CUTTING.  NOTE  THAT 
SAND  FALLS  IN  HOLE  FROM  SUR- 
FACE FOR  BASE  OF  CUTTING  (B) 
TO  REST  ON, 


ALL  ABOUT  CHRYSANTHEMUMS          101 

Chrysanthemums    Unsatisfactory 

Q.  Herewith  I  send  you  leaves  of  Chrysanthemums.  I  shall  be 
grateful  if  you  will  tell  me  the  cause  of  the  trouble  and  the  cure. — 
W.  G.  A.,  Arundd. 

A.  The  leaves  of  the  Chrysanthemums  are  infested  with  a  leaf- 
mining  grub.  Gather  the  bad  leaves  and  burn  them.  Your  plants 
need  stimulants.  Feed  them  with  clear  soot  water,  liquid  manure  and 


B 


'•TAKING"  CHRYSANTHEMUM  BUDS. 

TERMINAL  BUD   SECURED   BY  CROWN   BUD    SHOWN  AT   A  :    THIS 

REMOVING  OTHERS.  WOULD  NOT  DEVELOP  UNLESS 

SHOOTS     B      WERE      REMOVED 
WHEN  SMALL. 

artificials  judiciously.  The  Carnations  are  also  suffering  from  rust. 
Pick  off  the  leaves  affected,  and  carefully  syringe  the  plants  with  the 
Bordeaux  mixture.  Use  copper  sulphate  1  lb.,  soda  crystals  H  lb.» 
water  Ilk  gallons  ;  or  you  may  use  verdigris  1  lb.,  water  12  gallons- 
Spray  the  plants  thoroughly. 
Treatment  of  Chrysanthemums 

Q.  What  artificial  manure  do  you  recommend  for  Chrysanthe- 
mums after  they  are  housed  ?    For  the  last  three  or  four  years  I  have 


102      GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

grown  some  fine  plants  of  Chrysanthemum,  which  have  produced 
very  promising  buds.  1  try  to  grow  them  on  to  what  I  think  is  the 
best  bud  for  each  individual  variety,  the  buds  appearing  ready  for 
taking  generally  from  the  first  week  of  August  until  the  middle  of 
September.  When  housed,  as  a  rule,  my  plants  are  perfectly  clean  and 
healthy,  but  the  buds  do  not  develop  as  I  anticipate,  considering  the 
health  and  strength  of  the  plants.  I  fancy  it  is  something  to  do  with 
feeding  after  they  are  housed.  I  have  so  far  restricted  myself  to 
pure  Peruvian  guano,  keeping  the  house  and  atmosphere  as  dry  as 
I  can  with  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°.  Would  you  also  tell  me  what 
you  think  is  the  best  bud  to  take  to  get  good  blooms  of  Mrs. 
A.  T.  Miller,  Rose  Pockett,  Pockett's  Surprise,  Formality,  and 
Splendour  ? — Chrysanthemum,  Upper  Norwood. 

A.  It  is  quite  possible  that  you  have  taken  first  crown  buds  too 
eirly,  and  that  the  petals  have  not,  in  consequence,  opened  as  freely, 
and  developed  into  as  large  flowers  as  they  would  if  buds  were  taken 
ten  days  or  a  fortnight  later.  Furthermore,  you  may  have  crippled 
the  roots  by  over  feeding.  Clay's  Fertilizer,  guano  and  other  con- 
centrated manures  are  suitable  for  feeding  the  plants  after  the  latter 
are  placed  under  glass.  The  best  buds  to  take  of  the  following 
varieties,  Formality,  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  Rose  Pockett,  Pockett's  Sur- 
prise, and  Splendour,  are  second  crown  buds. 

Outdoor  Chrysanthemums  in  Winter 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  how  to  preserve  outdoor  Chrysanthemums 
during  the  winter  ?  The  situation  is  rather  low.  Last  winter  after  I 
had  cut  them  down  I  covered  them  well  over  with  ashes,  but  lost 
every  one. — B.  J.  C.,  Melton  Mowbray. 

A,  If  you  have  a  cold  frame,  the  best  way  is  to  take  them  up  and 
plant  them  thickly  together  in  the  frame,  covering  with  mats  in  very 
severe  weather,  planting  in  the  borders  again  towards  the  end  of 
March.  If  you  have  not  a  frame,  we  should  take  them  up  and  plant 
at  the  foot  of  a  south  warm  wall,  packing  some  dry  leaves  well  round 
them,  but  not  covering  up  the  top  of  the  plants.  On  very  severe 
nights  cover  over  with  mats  or  litter.  In  this  way  you  should  have 
no  difficulty  in  preserving  your  plants  through  the  winter. 


CHAPTER  VII 

Failures  with   Bulbous   Flowers — How   to  Avoid 
Them 

Gladioli  not  Flowering 

Q.  I  planted  a  lot  of  Gladiolus  bulbs  in  March,  very  few  of 
which  flowered  the  same  year.  Are  they  likely  to  be  of  any  use 
another  year  ? — H.  (7.,  Southsea. 

A.  If  you  lift,  dry,  and  store  the  bulbs  until  the  early  part  of 
spring,  they  will  probably  flower  next  year.  They  have  not 
been  strong  enough  to  do  so  this  year.  The  bulbs  must  be  of 
sufficient  size,  and  be  well  ripened  to  produced  flower  spikes. 

Daffodils,  Tulips,  etc.,  for  Exhibition 

Q.  Please  inform  me  the  best  varieties  of  Daffodils,  Tulips,  and 
any  other  kind  of  bulbs  suitable  for  exhibition.  Also  the  best  time 
to  pot  same  for  exhibiting  the  early  part  of  April,  and  whether  to 
keep  pots  in  cold  greenhouse  or  outside. — Carnation,  Gosport. 

A.  Daffodils :  Emperor,  M.  J.  Berkeley,  Mrs.  Walter  Ware, 
J.  B.  M.  Camm,  Madame  de  Graaff,  Gloria  Mundi,  Sir  Watkin, 
Barrii  conspicuus,  Albatross,  Duchess  of  Westminster,  John  Bain, 
Poeticus  ornatus.  The  above  varieties  represent  the  chief  sections 
into  which  Daffodils  are  divided.  A  representative  section  such  as 
this  should  find  favour  with  the  judges,  in  preference  to  all  yellow 
trumpet  or  bicolor  varieties,  for  instance.  The  sorts  named  can  all 
be  obtained  at  a  reasonable  price.  Early  single  Tulips :  White, 
Joost  van  Vondel,  King  of  the  Yellows,  Rose  Gris  de  Lin,  Prince  of 
Austria,  Couleur  Cardinal,  and  Duchesse  de  Parme.  May  flowering 
single  Tulips  :  Clara  Butt,  Bouton  d'Or,  Pride  of  Haarlem,  Mrs. 
Farn combe  Sanders,  La  Tulipe  Noire,  Picotee.  Hyacinths  would 
be  excellent  bulbs  for  you  to  grow  for  exhibition ;  good  varieties 
are  Vuurbaak,  crimson ;  Cavaignac,  pale  rose  pink  ;  Mont  Blanc, 
white ;  Grandeur  a  Merveille,  pale  blush ;  Captain  Boyton,  lilac 
blue ;  General  Havelock,  dark  blue ;  Bird  of  Paradise,  yellow. 
Pot  up  the  bulbs  in  October,  plunge  them  in  ashes  for  about  six 
weeks,  then,  if  rooting  freely,  remove  to  a  cold  frame  till  February, 

103 


104      GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

plunging  the  pots  to  the  rims  in  ashes.  Towards  the  end  of 
February  place  them  in  a  cold  greenhouse.  If  too  early  you  can 
retard  them  by  shading  from  the  sun,  and  keeping  abundance  of 
air  on  the  house.  If  you  decide  to  grow  the  May  flowering  Tulips, 
bring  these  into  your  greenhouse  a  month  earlier. 

Bulbs   from    Stem   of  Tiger   Lily 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  whether  the  enclosed  bulbs  (taken  from 
joints  of  stem  of  Tiger  Lily)  will  bloom  the  first  year,  and  also  any 
special  preparation  as  regards  soil  and  growth  ? — /.  Hewlett,  Bow. 


FOUR  TULIP  BULBS   POTTED   IN  5-INCH  WIDE  POT. 

A.  The  bulbs  you  speak  of,  which  have  been  taken  from  the 
stems  of  Tiger  Lilies,  will  not  flower  next  year,  or  for  two  or  three 
years  to  come,  most  likely.  You  may  get  flowers  the  third  year 
after  the  bulbils  have  been  formed,  or  an  odd  one  or  two  may  even 
appear  the  second  year,  but  this  is  very  unlikely.  The  best  way  to 
grow  them  is  to  make  up  a  bed  of  peat  and  sandy  loam  in  about 
equal  proportions,  about  6  inches  deep,  on  well  drained  ground. 
Plant  the  bulbils  from  1  inch  to  2  inches  below  the  surface,  on  a  bed 
of  silver  sand,  and  scatter  a  little  more  sand  on  them  before  covering 
them  with  soil.  In  two  years'  time  lift,  sort  into  large  and  small, 
and  replant. 


FIVE  DAFFODIL  BULBS  IN  6-INCH  POT.    SOIL  HAS  STILL  TO  BE 
"ADDED,  AND  WILI  HALF  COVER  THE  BULBS. 


THREE   HYACINTH  BULBS   IN   A  6-INCH  FLOWER  POT.      THESE 
AND  TULIP  BULBS   SHOULD  BE  HALF  COVERED  WITH  SOIL. 


106     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 


Lilies  Diseased 

Q.  Will  you  please  tell  me  the  probable  cause  of  enclosed  Liliums 
dying  off?    Both  blooms  and  leaves  are  falling.    I  cannot  account 

for  it,  unless  it  is 
because  I  have 
given  them  on  two 
occasions  weak 
manure  water 
(sheep's).  I  have 
nearly  a  dozen  va- 
rieties of  Liliums, 
in  my  garden.  1 
should  like  to 
give  the  ground  a 
good  digging  this 
autumn  or  winter. 
Shall  I  leave  the 
bulbs  in  and  not 
disturb  them  or 
take  them  out  and 
put  in  again,  as  I 
have  done  each 
previous  year  1  — 

HOW  A  LILY  BULB  IS  POTTED.  F.  B.,  Bow, 

A.  Your  Lilies 

are  affected  with  one  of  the  diseases  that  of  late  years  have  at- 
tacked these  lovely  subjects.  There  is  little  you  can  do  to  stay 
its  progress.  Some  Lily  growers,  when  their  bulbs  have  been 
attacked,  have  taken  them  up  and  placed  them  in  bags  of  sul- 
phur, allowing  this  substance  to  percolate  well  among  the  scales. 
Replanted  the  next  year  they  have  shown  no  signs  of  the  disease. 
We  should  certainly  advise  you  to  take  up  the  bulbs  and  replant 
again  after  turning  over  the  ground  as  you  propose.  In  replanting 
place  a  little  peat  beneath  each  bulb  and  surround  it  with  ^  inch  of 
sand.  L.  aura  turn  should  be  planted  8  inches  deep,  and  L.  umbella- 
tum  about  5  inches. 

About   Lily    Bulbs 

Q.  I  have  three  Lilies  (Lilium  auratum)  which  have  just  finished 
flowering — two  of  the  pots  contained  seventeen  and  thirteen  blooms 
respectively— and  now  I  do  not  know  how  to  treat  them.  Should 


ONE   OP  THE  FINEST  OF  ALL  DAFFODILS   FOR  THE   GARDEN, 
SIR  WATKIN,   PALE   YELLOW. 


108      GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 


they  be  put  outside  and  repotted  in  the  spring  1 — A .  K.  C.,  North 
umberland. 

A.  Place  the  pots  containing  the  bulbs  in  a  cool  frame  and 
gradually  withhold  water.  In  spring  repot  them  in  small  pots  so 
that  you  can  transfer  them  to  larger  ones  in  due  course. 

Growing  Lilies  in    Pots 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  grow  Lilies  in  pots.  Which  are  the  best  for 
the  purpose  ?  and  how  are  they  grown  1 — H.  E.  W.,  Eamsgate. 

A.  The  potting 
should  be  done  at 
any  time  during 
the  resting  season 
of  the  bulbs,  pre- 
ferably in  autumn. 
A  good  soil  is 
made  by  mixing 
together  loam  and 
peat  in  equal  parts, 
and  adding  smaller 
quantities  of  sharp 
silver  sand  and 
charcoal  broken  to 
the  size  of  Hazel 
Nuts.  Deep  pot- 
ting should  be 
practised  so  as  to 
leave  space  above 
the  bulbs  for  top 
dressing  later  on 
when  growth  is 
being  made.  Speciosum  varieties,  auratum  and  candidum  are 
the  most  useful. 

Gladiolus  Bulbs 

Q.  Last  season  I  grew  a  lot  of  Gladioli  The  Bride,  and  some 
hybrids  in  pots  in  heated  greenhouse.  Would  these  bulbs  be  worth 
growing  in  pots  another  year  I—Rosa,  Derby. 

A.  You  can  grow  these  on  another  year  and  they  would  succeed 
very  well.  The  bulbs  should  be  shaken  free  of  soil  and  hung  up 
in  an  airy  shed,  until  the  sap  has  gone  out  of  their  foliage,  when 


CROCUS   SIR  WALTER    SCOTT,    GROWN   IX 
FLOWER  POT  IN  COLD  GREENHOUSE. 


ROOM  PLANTS  109 

they  may  be  cleaned  and  placed  in  dry  sand  or  bags,  and  kept  in 
a  cool,  dry  place  ready  for  another  season. 

Room     Plants 
Room   Plants   Failing 

Q.  Will  you  please  tell  me  what  is  wrong  with  my  Aspidistra — 
why  the  leaves  that  have  grown  up  tall  all  split,  and  why  all  the  new 
leaves  that  come  up  now  have  taken  to  be  so  short  ?  They  unfold 
so  quickly  and  do  not  grow  at  all. — E.  I?.,  Kensington. 

A.  The  leaves  have  most  likely  been  knocked  by  people  passing 
by,  especially  when  they  were  young  and  tender.  As  the  young 
leaves  lack  vigour  the  plant  evidently  needs  dividing  and  repotting. 
If  unable  to  do  this  take  it  to  the  florist.  Turfy  soil  2  parts,  sand 
and  leaf  soil  1  part,  make  up  a  good  soil  mixture.  February  or 
early  March  is  a  good  time  to  repot.  This  plant,  when  well  rooted, 
needs  a  lot  of  water  in  summer  and  comparatively  little  in  winter. 
Norfolk  Island  Pine  f  Araucaria  excelsa)  in  Room 

Q.  I  have  a  fine  plant  of  this  in  my  dining  room.  It  is  full 
grown,  six  tiers  high,  the  lower  branches  still  on  and  quite  healthy, 
but  the  roots  show  on  the  top  of  the  pot,  also  at  the  bottom,  and  I 
am  told  they  object  to  repotting.  I  do  not  want  to  lose  it  by  so 
doing  ;  can  you  please  advise  me  as  to  how  it  should  be  dealt  with  ] 
— M.  M.  C.  W.,  Essex. 

A.  If  the  pot  is  well  filled  with  roots  it  will  be  advisable  to  repot 
the  plant  in  spring.  Use  a  mixture  of  fibrous  loam  and  peat  in 
equal  proportions,  and  sand  to  make  the  whole  porous.  Press  down 
the  new  soil  carefully  and  firmly,  and  see  that  the  soil  never  gets  too 
dry  or  is  kept  in  a  saturated  condition,  and  then  the  tree  will 
improve  in  every  way. 
Repotting  Room  Plants 

Q.  Can  you  give  me  a  few  hints  on  repotting  room  plants  1 — 
'8.  T.  E.,  Ealing. 

A.  Room  plants  should  be  examined  in  February,  and  if  roots  in 
large  numbers  have  reached  the  side  of  the  pot,  repotting  is  neces- 
sary. I  refer  to  such  subjects  as  Aspidistras,  palms,  and  various 
ferns  which  are  used  for  indoor  decoration.  Unless  the  plant  is  to 
be  returned  to  a  pot  of  the  same  size  as  was  previously  occupied  it 
will  not  be  advisable  to  disturb  the  roots  a  great  deal.  For  some 
time  after  potting  watering  must  be  carefully  performed,  giving  it; 
only  when  the  soil  is  fairly  dry,  or  sourness  of  the  soil  will  result, 


CHAPTER  VIII 
Grape   Growing   in   Greenhouses 

Vine  for   Unheated   Greenhouse 

Q.  I  have  an  unheated  greenhouse.  Can  I  grow  Grapes  there 
with  any  measure  of  success  ? — E.  S.  T.,  Finchley. 

A.  Quite  easily.  Excellent  crops  may  be  had  from  an  unheated 
greenhouse  provided  (1)  this  is  in  a  sunny  place,  (2)  the  proper 
varieties  are  grown,  (3)  that  certain  simple  cultural  details  are 
attended  to.  The  first  thing  is  to  make  a  good  border.  Dig  out  a 
hole  3  feet  across  and  3  feet  deep.  Put  a  layer  of  bricks  in  the 
bottom  for  drainage  and  a  layer  of  turves,  grass  side  downwards,  on 
these.  Then  fill  the  hole  with  turfy  soil  (turves  each  chopped  into 
about  6  pieces  with  a  spade)  with  which  a  good  sprinkling  of  half 
inch  bones  and  one  fourth  part  well  rotted  manure  were  previously 
mixed.  Do  not  plant  within  a  fortnight ;  this  will  allow  the  soil 
to  settle  down.  A  properly  prepared  border  is  of  the  first  im- 
portance. 

Q.  Does  it  matter  whether  the  Vine  is  planted  out  of  doors  or 
inside  the  vinery  1 

A .  It  makes  no  real  difference  providing  the  border  is  well  made. 
The  Vine  is  hardy,  frost  will  not  harm  it.  If  planted  outside,  how- 
ever, it  is  wise  to  protect  that  part  of  the  stem  that  is  out  of  doors 
by  wrapping  it  round  well  with  straw  or  hay. 

Q.  Which  are  the  most  suitable  varieties? 

A.  Black  Hamburgh  is  the  best  of  the  black  Grapes  for  this 
purpose ;  Foster's  Seedling,  Buckland  Sweetwater  and  Royal 
Muscadine  are  suitable  white  sorts. 

Q.  When  should  vines  be  planted  ? 

A.  In  March  just  as  growth  is  about  to  commence,  or  in  autumn 
or  winter. 

Pruning  Vines 

Q.  How  are  Vines  pruned  ? — Ignorant,  Windsor. 
A.  Newly  planted  Vines  are  cut  down  to  within  a  foot  of  the 
base.    One  shoot  is  allowed  to  grow  to  form  the  future  stem  or  rod  ; 

110 


112     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

all  the  others  are  rubbed  off.  If  there  is  room  for  two  stems  then 
two  may  be  allowed  to  develop.  The  following  year  the  Vine  may 
be  left  3  feet  long  ;  each  year  3  feet  of  new  stem  is  left  until  the 
allotted  space  is  filled.  Meantime  side  growths  will  form.  Some 
of  the  best,  at  intervals  of  15  to  18  inches  apart,  are  allowed  to  grow  ; 
others  are  rubbed  off  in  spring  when  quite  small.  Those  shoots  left 
are  called  laterals  and  will  form  spurs. 

Pruning  Lateral  Shoots. 

Q.  How  are  lateral  shoots  or  spurs  pruned  I — Ljrwrant,  Windsor. 

A.  The  pruning  is  simplicity  itself.  Each  year  (in  January)  the 
previous  summer's  growth  is  cut  back  to  within  two  buds  of  the 
base,  thus  practically  all  the  previous  year's  growth  is  cut  away. 
When  these  two  buds  start  into  growth  in  spring  only  one  is  retained; 
if  neither  contains  a  bunch  then  the  weaker  is  rubbed  off ;  if  one 


MAKING  A 

VINE 
BORDER. 


contains  a  bunch  and  the  other  does  not,  naturally  the  former  is 
retained.  The  embryo  bunch  can  be  distinguished  when  the  shoot 
is  only  an  inch  long. 


GRAPE  GROWING  IN  GREENHOUSES     113 


Treatment  of  Vines  during  Summer 

Q.  Would  you  give  general  directions  for  treatment  of  Vines 
during  the  summer  months  ?— Ignorant,  Windsor. 

A.  The  side  shoots  are  "  stopped  "  at  one  leaf  beyond  the  bunch  ; 
if  the  shoot  bears  no  bunch  then  it  is  stopped  when  it  has  made 
five  leaves.  Further  shoots  that  grow  are  stopped  beyond  one  leaf. 
Until  the  top  of  the  vinery  is  reached  the  leading  shoot 
is  allowed  to  grow  unchecked,  3  feet  only  of  the  summer's 
growth  being  left  at  the  January  pruning.  A  moist,  warm  atmo- 
sphere is  necessary  until  the  Grapes  begin  to  colour,  then  more 
air  and  less  moisture  are  essential.  Avoid  giving  much  air  at 
once ;  the  ventilators  should  be  opened  gradually.  Allow  the 


VINE  WITH  BOOTS  SPREAD  OUT 
FOB  PLANTING.  THE  WAVED 
LINE  INDICATES  SURFACE  OF 
SOIL. 


VINE   AS  RECEIVED  FROM 
THE  NURSERY. 

temperature  to  rise  10°  above  the  minimum  night  temperature  before 
air  is  given.  When  the  Vines  are  in  bloom  more  air  and  less 
moisture  than  usual  should  be  the  order  of  the  day.  When  the 
Grapes  are  about  the  size  of  Black  Currants  they  apparently  cease 
to  make  any  progress  for  two  or  three  weeks  ;  this  is  the  "  stoning  " 
period,  the  period  of  seed  formation.  Thinning  the  berries  when 
they  are  about  the  size  of  Peas  is  an  important  item  of  work.  When 
the  Grapes  are  cut  the  Vines  need  full  exposure.  They  cannot  then 
have  too  much  air.  If  cut  with  about  4  inches  of  growth,  Grapes 
will  keep  for  weeks  in  a  cool,  airy,  dark  or  shaded  room.  The  piece  of 


114     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 


growth  is  inserted  in  a  bottle  of  water,  the  bottles  being  fixed  on  a 
shelf,  slantingly,  so  that  the  bunch  may  hang  free. 

Vines  not  Fruiting 

Q.  I  have  five  Vines  (they  are  twenty-five  years  old)  in  a  leanto 
greenhouse  facing  south-east.  They  are  trained  on  wires  ;  the 
border  is  outside,  made  and  drained.  I  cut  down  the  old  canes 
to  about  3  feet  from  the  border  because  they  did  not  produce  fruit, 
and  trained  up  young  canes  in  their  places.  The  young  canes  are 


SIDE      SHOOT       OB 
LATERAL  OF 

VINE  AS  PRUNED 
IN  JANUARY. 


ONE  OP  THE  BUDS  WILL  GIVE  RISE  TO  A 
SHOOT  LIKE  THIS  WHICH  IN  SUMMER  IS 
STOPPED  TWO  OR  THREE  JOINTS  BEYOND 
THE  BUNCH. 


healthy  and  have  plenty  of  foliage,  but  where  the  fruit  ought  to  be 
they  produce  tendrils. — J.   TP.,  Essex. 

A.  The  reason  the  young  rods  have  not  borne  bunches  is,  no 
doubt,  owing  to  lack  of  maturity.  If  the  house  is  heated,  keep  the 
pipes  warm  during  the  autumn  and  admit  plenty  of  air  in  the  day- 
time and  even  at  night,  to  ripen  the  wood.  In  December,  just 
before  Christmas,  prune  back  the  young  rods  to  within  3  feet 
or  so  of  the  base  of  the  current  year's  growth ;  do  this  each  year 
until  the  allotted  space  is  covered.  Also  top  dress  the  borders  with  good 
fibrous  loam  and  some  bone  meal.  It 'is  probable  that  the  variety 
you  have  needs  a  warmer  temperature  than  you  give  it.  Muscat  of 


GRAPE  GROWING  IN  GREENHOUSES     115 

Alexandria,  Madresfield  Court,  Cannon  Hall  Muscat,  Muscat  Ham- 
burgh and  Mrs.  Pince  are  useless  in  an  unheated  house. 

Grapes   Spoilt 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  how  to  prevent  Lady  Downe's  Grapes  from 
going  bad  as  per  berries  enclosed  1  The  Vine  is  very  old,  and  is  grown 
in  the  same  house  as  Black  Hamburgh.  I  have  the  roof  shaded  over 


BUNCH  OF  GRAPES 
UNTHINNED. 


BUNCH  OF  GRAPES 
THINNED. 


the  Lady  Downe's,  and  ventilators  open  about  6.30  a.m.  I  have  the 
same  trouble  more  or  less  every  year  about  stoning  time  and 
although  I  did  not  thin  them  so  hard  I  have  had  to  cut  away  a  lot 
of  berries,  which  has  spoilt  the  look  of  the  bunches.  The  house  is 
not  heated  regularly,  only  on  dreary,  cold,  and  wet  nights.—  W.  Foster, 
Acton. 

A.  Your  Grapes  are  badly  scalded.    The  variety  Lady  Downe's  is 
more  liable  to  scalding  than  any  other,  since  it  has  such  a  thin  skin. 


116      GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Scalding  is  always  worse  when  a  bright  spell  of  weather  comes  after 
a  prolonged  dull  one,  especially  if  at  the  time  when  the  berries  are 
stoning,  i.e.  when  the  stones  are  hardening,  and  before  colour- 
ing commences.  In  addition  to  the  free  ventilation  and  light 
shading  given,  admit  a  little  air  all  night  and  warm  the  pipes  too ; 
this  is  all  you  can  do.  When  the  top  ventilators  are  left  open  an 
inch  or  two  all  nightj  the  berries  are  rarely  scalded.  Scalding  is 
caused  by  the  sun  shining  on  the  Grapes  when  they  are  moist.  If 
the  ventilator  is  left  open  the  moisture  does  not  settle  on  the 
Grapes. 

Foster's  Seedling  Grape  Spotted 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  the  reason  of  my  white  Grapes  being  spotted 
in  this  way  ?  I  enclose  a  bunch. — E.  W.,  Hendon. 

A .  The  spots  on  the  berries  of  your  Grapes  are  the  result  of  the 
atmosphere  of  the  vinery  being  kept  too  cold  and  too  damp.  When 
Grapes  are  quite  ripe  it  is  the  inevitable  result  that  decay  follows 
unless  the  air  of  the  house  is  kept  sufficiently  warm  and  dry  to 
prevent  it. 

Grapes   Shrivelling   before   Ripe 

Q.  I  am  much  disappointed  in  my  Grapes.  The  berries  and 
the  stalks  shrivel,  rendering  the  fruit  quite  useless. — H.  E.  *S'., 
Oxon. 

A.  The  shrivelling  of  the  berries  is  due  to  shanking,  a  failing 
brought  about  by  a  number  of  causes,  the  chief  being  a  sour  and 
badly  drained  border.  At  the  same  time  the  berries  will  shank  if 
the  border  is  allowed  to  become  dry,  and  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  Vines  from  the  time  of  starting  until  the  time  of  colouring  need 
copious  supplies  of  water,  with  occasional  applications  of  liquid 
manure.  Examine  the  border  frequently,  and  never  allow  it  to 
become  dry.  The  fumes  from  burning  sulphur  are,  as  you  have 
learnt,  very  injurious  to  growing  Vines,  but  we  attribute  the  shank- 
ing either  to  sour  soil  or  to  overcropping  the  previous  year. 

Top  Dressing  Vine  Borders 

Q.  What  is  the  best  material  with  which  to  top  dress  Vine 
borders  ?  Can  I  use  fowl  manure  1 — A .  E.  JF.,  Walsall. 

A.  Cow  manure  is  by  far  the  .best,  but  as  you  are  unable  to 
procure  it  the  fowl  manure  may  be  used  as  a  substitute.  It  should 
first  of  all  be  mixed  with  about  its  own  bulk  of  turfy  soil,  and  then 


GRAPE  GROWING  IN  GREENHOUSES     117 

spread  over  the  borders  to  a  depth  of  2  or  3  inches.  Horse  litter 
may  also  be  given,  but  not  in  the  fresh  state.  When  half  rotted  it 
may  be  spread  evenly  over  the  border. 

About  a  Greenhouse  and  Neglected  Vines 

Q.  I  write  to  ask  your  advice  about  a  greenhouse  I  have.  It  is 
50  by  14  feet,  and  contains  no  stage  or  shelves.  It  is  3  feet  high  at 
sides,  and  9  feet  high  at  the  apex.  Can  I  grow  vegetables  in  it  1  or 
what  would  be  more  profitable  1  I  have  a  Vine  that  has  not  been 
pruned  for  three  years.  Can  I  cut  it  hard  back  ? — Constant  Reader, 
Stockport. 

A.  You  may  force  Rhubarb  and  Seakale  in  the  greenhouse  in  the 
winter  months,  and  grow  Mushrooms,  early  Lettuces,  and,  later 
Kidney  Beans,  in  pots  or  boxes.  In  summer  time  you  cannot  do 
better  than  grow  Tomatoes.  The  proper  time  to  prune  the  Vine  is 
at  the  end  of  December,  but  if  you  cut  away  the  growths  of  several 
years  hard  back  to  the  main  rod,  side  shoots  will  grow  again,  but 
there  would  be  little  fruit  the  same  year.  The  best  plan  would 
be  to  prune  to  the  base  of  the  shoots  of  this  year's  growth,  leaving 
two  buds  only,  {There  would  be  long  spurs,  but  it  is  not  possible  to 
avoid  them  unless  you  out  hard  back,  and  sacrifice  most  of  the  fruit 
for  a  year  or  two.  This  would  be  best  in  the  end  ;  it  would  give  the 
Vines  a  new  lease  of  life  and  result  in  fresh  vigorous  growths. 

Treatment  of  Ripening  Grapes 

Q.  My  Grapes  are  just  beginning  to  colour.  Should  I  still  con- 
tinue syringing  and  damping  down  the  path  and  walls  1  and  .if  so, 
how  long?  They  are  mostly  Black  Hamburgh  and  Alicante.— 
0.  N.,  Hampstead. 

A.  You  must  cease  syringing  the  Vines,  bu^  damping  down 
should  continue  a  little  longer,  say  for  two  or  three  weeks,  although 
it  must  be  gradually  diminished.  On  dull,  wet  days  it  will  not  be 
necessary  at  all. 

Grapes  Failing 

Q.  I  am  sending  a  bunch  of  Black  Alicante,  and  should  feel  very 
grateful  if  you  could  tell  me  the  reason  of  their  disfigurement.  I 
have  two  Vines,  and  for  two  or  three  years  have  had  occasional 
bunches  go  in  the  same  way,  but  this  year  every  bunch  is  affected  ; 
I  have  about  twenty  bunches  on  each  Vine.  The  Vine  itself  seems 
quite  healthy.  I  have  the  border  inside,  so  that  I  keep  it  in  good 


118     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

condition.  I  do  not  force  them  at  all — just  have  a  little  heat  when 
they  begin  to  grow,  generally  about  March,  until  warm  weather  sets 
in.  Is  it  lack  of  heat  1  Gros  Colmar  and  a  white  Muscat  do  well  in 
same  house.  I  shall  have  had  them  nine  or  ten  years. — A  Lady 
Gardener,  Suffolk. 

A.  Your  Vines  are  affected  with  what  is  known  as  scald.  It  is 
caused  through  inefficient  ventilation,  especially  on  bright,  sunny 
mornings  whilst  the  vinery  and  even  the  berries  are  damp  with  con- 
densed moisture.  It  usually  attacks  Grapes  when  they  have  nearly 
finished  stoning.  There  is  no  cure  for  the  berries  once  affected. 
The  way  to  prevent  its  attack  is  to  ventilate  freely  as  soon  as  the 
berries  have  commenced  to  stone,  until  they  have  done  stoning  and 
are  commencing  to  colour.  The  ventilators,  both  front  and  top, 
should  be  thrown  wide  open  in  front  of  the  Vines  in  warm  weather 
during  the  day,  and  a  little  air  must  be  left  on  all  night. 

Treatment  of  Vine 

Q.  Will  you  please  give  me  information  as  to  the  treatment  of 
a  Black  Hamburgh  Vine  1  I  have  gathered  all  the  Grapes  and 
the  leaves  are  fast  dying  off,  and  I  am  now  at  a  loss  what  to  do. 
The  previous  owner  of  the  Vine  advised  me  to  lift  it  down  from 
the  glass  and  lay  it  on  the  floor  of  the  greenhouse  to  rest,  also  to 
place  a  small  load  of  cow  manure  on  the  roots  in  January.  Is  this 
the  correct  treatment  ?  I  know  that  the  laterals  should  be  pruned 
back  to  two  buds  ;  but  when  1—W.S.8.,  Notts. 

A.  The  Vine  needs  little  or  no  attention  now.  Its  chief  need  is 
fresh  air,  so  that  the  growth  may  ripen  well  ;  therefore  keep  the 
house  cold  by  opening  the  ventilators  wide.  Pruning  may  be  done 
in  December  or  January.  Each  of  the  side  shoots  is  cut  back  to 
the  two  lowest  buds  on  the  past  summer's  growth.  A  dressing  of 
cow  manure  on  the  outside  border  in  January  would  be  advisable  ; 
strawy  litter  would  be  better,  putting  on  and  forking  in  the  cow 
manure  in  March.  The  strawy  litter  would  be  warmer  as  a  winter 
covering. 

Sulphuring  Hot  Water  Pipes  in  a  Vinery  for 
the  Destruction  of  Red  Spider 

Q.  Would  you  kindly  advise  me  if  it  would  be  safe  to  use  sulphur 
and  lime  on  the  hot  water  pipes  in  a  vinery  in  which  the  Grapes  are 
ripe  and  in  which  there  is  a  lot  of  Maidenhair  Ferns  and  other 
plants  ?  I  have  no  other  house  for  plants,  and  later  on  there  will  be 


GRAPE   GROWING  IN  GREENHOUSES       119 

all  the  bedding  plants  and  Chrysanthemums.    Kindly  advise  me  as 
to  the  best  time  to  clean  the  house.— No.  53,  Bucks. 

A.  It  is  quite  safe  to  sulphur  the  hot  water  pipes  in  a  vinery  in 
which  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  provided  it  is  not  done  excessively,  other- 
wise there  is  danger  of  injuriously  affecting  the  skin  of  white  Grapes 
such  as  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  White  Frontignan,  and  indeed  all  white 
varieties,  the  fumes  taming  the  skin  to  a  bluish  colour,  and  to  some 
extent  detracting  from  their  appearance.  But  as  you  say  there  are 
a  number  of  Maidenhair  Ferns  and  other  plants  in  the  house,  it  would 
not  be  safe  to  use  the  sulphur  on  the  hot  water  pipes,  as  the  fumes 
will  certainly  injure  the  more  tender  of  the  growths  and  cause  them 
to  become  brown.  The  better  plan  would  be  to  use  a  sponge  and  go 
over  the  leaves  carefully,  the  sponge  being  moistened  with  a  soft  soap 
solution,  2  oz.  or  3  oz.  soft  soap  to  1  gallon  of  water,  and  thus  break 
up  the  webs  and  remove  most  of  the  pests  by  the  process.  This  is  a 
tedious  but  a  sure  way  of  palliating  the  evil,  and  would  be  the  best. 

Rust  on  Muscat  Grapes 

Q.  Enclosed  is  a  sample  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria  Grape,  being  the 
first  fruit  of  a  four  year  old  Vine  with  an  outside  border.  The 
Vines  were  started  in  the  first  week  of  February.  The  brown  marks 
on  the  Grapes  were  noticed  about  a  fortnight  ago  (August). — 
JZnquirer,  Newbury. 

A.  The  Muscat  of  Alexandria  Grapes  are  affected  by  rust.  Over- 
heating of  the  pipes  while  the  berries  were  small  would  cause  the 
mischief.  If  the  roots  of  the  Vines  are  in  a  cold  border,  this  condi- 
tion of  affairs  would  be  aggravated  ;  violent  changes  in  the  tempera- 
ture are  also  likely  to  predispose  the  Vines  to  this  malady. 

Yine  Leaves  Diseased 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  what  is  the  matter  with  the  Vine  leaves 
enclosed  ?  They  seem  in  a  bad  way.  What  can  I  do  to  cure  them  ? — 
A.E.T.,  Bury. 

A.  Your  Vines  are  suffering  from  a  bad  attack  of  thrips,  red 
spider  and  mildew,  and  if  these  pests  are  not  speedily  destroyed  you 
stand  a  very  poor  chance  of  getting  any  useful  returns  from  your 
Vines.  Amongst  the  'chief  causes  of  attack  from  red  spider  and 
mildew  are  the  following :  Over  cropping  the  Vines  in  previous 
years ;  insufficient  thought  and  care  in  ventilating,  especially  in 
spring  and  early  summer ;  dryness  at  the  roots,  and  a  too  close 
proximity  of  the  foliage  to  the  glass  in  hot  weather.  The  cause  of 


120     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

attack  from  thrips  is  usually  the  bringing  of  plants  which  are  infested 
with  them  into  the  vinery.  For  the  destruction  of  red  spider  and 
thrips  you  should  fumigate  with  XL  ALL  on  two  successive  evenings 
when  the  weather  is  calm,  of  course  closing  down  the  ventilators  to 
prevent  the  escape  of  fumes.  To  destroy  the  mildew  you  should 
heat  the  hot  water  pipes  moderately  and  paint  the  pipes  over  with 
flowers  of  sulphur  made  into  the  consistency  of  paint  by  added 
water,  sealing  up  the  vinery  as  closely  as  possible,  as  in  the  case  of 
fumigating.  Do  this  on  two  successive  evenings  of  calm  days. 
Afterwards  do  all  you  can  to  encourage  healthy  growth,  by  keeping 
up  a  moist  and  congenial  atmosphere  in  the  vinery. 

Fumigating"  with   Hydrocyanic  Acid  Gas 

Q.  White  fly  is  a  nuisance  in  my  greenhouses.  I  am  thinking  of 
fumigating  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas.  In  the  directions  it  says  : 
"After  an  hour  the  doors  should  be  opened,  also  the  ventilators, 
but  only  if  they  can  be  opened  from  the  outside.  In  no  circum- 
stances should  the  house  be  entered  until  the  next  morning  after 
ventilating."  Most  of  my  houses  are  span-roofed,  with  top  venti- 
lators and  one  at  end.  I  could  arrange  to  open  the  end  one  from 
outside,  and,  of  course,  the  door.  Would  this  be  enough  1  How 
long  would  it  be  necessary  to  ventilate  1  Will  white  fly  live  all  the 
winter  in  cold  houses  or  frames  1 — E.  M.t  Chepstow. 

A.  If  you  were  to  open  the  end  ventilator  all  night  it  should  be 
sufficient  to  clear  the  house  of  gas  ;  but  it  would  be  just  as  well  to 
stand  the  door  open  for  an  hour  in  the  morning.  When  using  it  I 
could  only  open  the  side  ventilator  of  the  houses,  and  I  always 
found  them  clear  in  the  morning.  Great  care  should  be  exercised 
when  using  the  above  fumigant.  The  door  of  the  house  or  houses 
should  be  securely  fastened,  and  a  notice  on  it  warning  anyone  from 
entering  the  house  ;  one  inhalation  of  the  gas  will  prow  fatal.  If 
only  troubled  with  white  fly,  I  would  advise  fumigating  with 
XL  ALL  compound,  or  any  of  the  other  good  compounds  offered 
for  sale,  as  white  fly  is  very  easily  killed.  Of  course,  to  get  rid  of 
it  one  must  fumigate  several  times,  as  fresh  broods  hatch  out.  It 
is  usually  troublesome  during  autumn,  and  should  not  live  during 
winter  in  houses  or  frames,  unless  they  are  kept  hot  and  close 
The  proportions  I  have  used  per  1,000  cubic  feet  are  2|  oz.  cyanide 
of  potassium,  4  oz.  fluid  ulphuric  acid,  8  oz.  water.  Use  a 
shallow  earthenware  vessel,  and  be  careful  to  add  the  acid  to  the 
water,  not  the  water  to  the  acid. 


CHAPTER  IX 
Fruit  Growing  Problems 

Apple  Trees  Affected  by  Insects 

Q.  Will  you  inform  me  how  to  get  rid  of  a  pest  which  has  in- 
fested about  fifty  of  my  young  apple  trees  1  It  appears  at  first  white 
and  fluffy,  and  when  examined  bugs  are  seen.  They  fasten  on  the 


AN  OLD  ESPALIER  APPLE  TREE  IN  FULL  BLOOM. 

young  growth  and  cause  an  ugly  swelling  on  the  bark,  and  eat  right 
through  the  bark  in  places  and  cause  the  growth  to  die  back.  A 
gardener  in  this  district  told  me  to  use  soft  soap,  but  I  am  sorry  to 
say  it  has  had  little,  if  any,  effect  on  them.  I  am  afraid  it  only 
serves  to  drive  them  from  one  branch  to  another. —  Wm.  Lawrence, 
Guildford. 

121 


122     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

A.  Your  trees  are  infested  by  the  American  Blight  (Schizoneura 
lanigera).  In  the  autumn  procure  some  ammoniacal  liquid  from  the 
gasworks,  and  with  a  stiff  brush  well  work  the  liquid  into  all 
cracks  and  indentations  of  the  bark.  Paraffin  may  be  used.  Very 
loose  pieces  of  bark  remove  altogether.  Having  dealt  with  the 
branches  and  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  carefully  remove  the  soil  from 
around  the  base  of  the  trunk  down  to  the  roots,  and  treat  it  in  a 
similar  manner.  Remove  all  the  surface  soil  as  far  as  the  full  spread 
of  the  branches,  burn  it,  and  put  on  some  fresh  loam  in  its  place. 

Grafted  Apple  Trees  Dying 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  the  disease  which  has  caused  the  death  of 
enclosed  Apple  tree  ?  I  have  grafted  a  good  many  trees  the  last  year 
or  two,  many  of  them  have  been  stricken  in  the  same  way.— E.,  Kent. 

A.  It  is  very  seldom  one  hears  of  the  death  of  an  Apple  tree 
grown  under  the  usual  natural  conditions,  but  it  is  not  at  all  unusual 
for  grafted  trees  to  succumb  to  the  operation  in  the  course  of  a  year 
or  two's  time.  This  is  more  particularly  the  case  with  trees  which  are 
fairly  old  when  grafted,  the  reason,  we  believe,  being  that  the  shock 
of  cutting  away  the  trees'  limbs  has  so  disorganised  and  weakened 
the  trees'  functions,  both  root  and  branch,  that  they  have  never  re- 
covered. We  think  that  the  death  of  your  trees  is  due  to  this  cause. 

Transplanting  an  Apple   Tree 

Q.  I  moved  an  apple  tree  from  one  part  of  my  garden  to  another 
on  September  18th,  All  the  leaves  have  shrivelled  and  appear  dead. 
What  can  I  do  ?-  W.  II.  C.t  -Essex. 

A.  It  is  a  pity  you  moved  the  tree  so  early.  You  should  have 
waited  until  the  leaves  had  fallen  and  growth  had  ceased — say  at  the 
end  of  October  or  early  in  November — and  the  tree  would  scarcely 
have  felt  the  check  of  removal.  Being  a  young  tree,  we  have 
no  doubt  it  will  soon  get  over  any  injury  received.  The  symptoms 
you  mention  as  regards  the  leaves  dying  and  sticking  on  the 
branches,  and  the  branches  shrivelling,  are  the  usual  indication  of 
too  early  lifting.  Prune  the  tree  about  the  end  of  December. 

Pears  Cracked  and   much   Disfigured 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  why  my  Pears  are  cracked  and  disfigured  in 
this  way  ?  I  enclose  a  few  fruits. — E,  2\  W.,  Slough. 

A.  The  fruits  are  infected  by  the  disease  known  popularly  as  Pear 
scab,  caused  by  the  parasitic  fungus,  Fusicladium  dendriticum  var- 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS  123 

pirinum.  This  is  probably  the  most  general  and  widely  distributed 
of  fungoid  diseases  attacking  Pears.  The  disease  is  usually  only 
recognised  on  the  fruit,  the  casual  observer  not  noticing  that  the 
scab  first  appears  on  the  leaves  and  young  shoots,  from  whence 
the  spores  are  washed  by  rain  on  to  the  fruit,  which,  as  a  rule,  is 
the  last  to  be  attacked.  If  the  fruit  is  nearly  full  grown  before  it  is 
infected  the  spots  formed  by  the  fungus  remain  comparatively  small 
and  cracking  does  not  generally  ensue.  As  regards  preventive  and 
repressive  treatment,  the  chief  points  to  be  attended  to  are :  1,  all 
diseased  fruits,  or  parings  of  them,  should  be  collected  and  burnedj 
and  it  is  good  practice  to  gather  and  burn  the  leaves  as  soon  as  they 
have  fallen  in  the  autumn,  or  bury  them  somewhat  deeply  in 
the  ground.  2,  spray  the  trees  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper, 
1  Ib.  of  the  sulphate  to  25  gallons  of  water,  or  1  oz.  to  li  gallons. 
This  should  be  applied  during  the  winter.  3,  spray  with  a  solution 
of  sulphide  of  potassium,  dissolving  1  oz.  of  the  sulphide  in  1  gallon 
of  hot  water,  and  in  another  vessel  6^  oz.  of  soft  soap  in  a  similar 
quantity  of  hot,  soft  water.  When  both  thoroughly  dissolve,  add  the 
latter  solution  to  that  of  the  sulphide  of  potassium,  stir  well,  and 
dilute  to  6|  gallons  with  cold,  soft'  water,  mixing  well.  The  spraying 
with  the  solution  should  be  as  follows  :  First,  just  as  the  flower  buds 
begin  to  open  ;  second,  when  the  petals  of  the  flowers  are  falling ; 
and  third,  when  the  fruit  is  the  size  of  Peas  or  slightly  larger.  If  the 
season  be  rainy,  a  fourth  treatment  should  be  given  twelve  days 
after  the  third. 

Pear  Tree    Cankered 

Q.  The  enclosed  Pear  is  from  a  tree  about  twenty  or  more  years 
old,  which  is  badly  cankered.  Can  this  be  brought  round  to  a 
healthy  state  1  It  is  now  showing  vigorous  growth,  but  has  suffered 
from  neglect  in  the  past.  Will  you  kindly  tell  me  good  solutions 
with  which  to  syringe  large  fruit  trees  for  green  fly,  black  fly, 
American  blight  ? — Surrey  Subscriber. 

A.  The  Pear  tree  may  be  improved  by  root  pruning  and  the 
removal  of  a  lot  of  surface  soil.  The  latter  must  be  replaced  by  new 
loam  and  a  mulching  of  rotted  manure.  Cut  off  the  cankered  shoots 
quite  close,  and  coat  over  the  cut  parts  with  Fir  tree  oil.  To  get  rid 
of  American  blight,  dress  the  tree  with  a  solution  of  I  Ib.  of  caustic 
soda  dissolved  in  1  quart  of  water,  and  4  oz.  of  soft  soap  in  a  similar 
quantity  ;  add  the  two  together,  and  then  dilute  with  5  gallons  of 
rain  water.  The  whole  of  the  bark  down  to  the  roots  of  the  trees 


124     GARDENING   DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

must  be  thoroughly  scrubbed  with  the  mixture.  Wear  gloves  while 
applying  it.  Quassia  extract,  used  according  to  instructions,  will 
kill  the  green  and  black  aphides. 

Plums   Dropping   before   Ripening 

Q.  Many  of  the  Plums  on  my  trees  are  dropping  this  season 
before  they  are  ripe.  Can  you  explain  this  ]— 77.  E.  E.,  Maidstone. 

A.  The  fall  of  undersized  fruits  before  they  commence  to  colour 
is  generally  attributed  to  overcropping.  It  may  also  be  due  to  the 
blossom  being  imperfectly  fertilised,  a  condition  brought  about  by 
the  lack  of  bees  or  other  insects  which  visit  the  early  flowers.  From 
the  sample  of  soil  and  subsoil  sent,  we  do  not  think  that  this  is  the 
cause  of  failure.  We  note  that  the  tree  was  root  pruned  on  one 
side  last  autumn  ;  if  the  tree  has  made  a  good  deal  of  growth  since 
then,  we  strongly  advise  you  to  root  prune  the  other  side  this  autumn 
and  be  sure  that  all  large  roots  are  cut,  particularly  those  which  go 
vertically  downwards  right  underneath  the  base  of  the  tree.  Koot 
pruning  will  oft-times  bring  an  otherwise  barren  tree  into  bearing. 

About  Pruning  Fruit  Trees 

Q.  Please  tell  me  why  fruit  trees  cannot  be  pruned  before  the 
leaves  fall. — Fruit,  Bedford. 

A.  The  reason  why  fruit  trees  ought  not  to  be  pruned  before  the 
foliage  falls,  is  that  by  early  pruning  the  tree  would  send  out 
fresh  shoots  before  the  autumn  had  passed.  These  shoots  would  be 
useless  as  fruit  spurs  or  as  flowering  wood,  as  they  would  be  poorly 
developed  and  not  ripened.  Summer  pruning  consists  of  stopping 
the  young  growths  in  July. 

Pears  in  Greenhouse  Falling  While  Small 

Q.  The  fruits  are  falling  off  my  Pear  trees  (in  greenhouse)  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  although  they  are  not  half  developed.  Why  is 
this  1—H.  E.  B.,  Blackpool. 

A.  The  fruit  is  dropping  on  account  of  the  imperfect  fertilisation 
of  the  flowers.  On  cutting  you  will  find  that  the  young  fruit  is 
practically  seedless.  There  are  various  causes  accountable  for  this. 
Sometimes  the  pollen  on  the  anthers  of  the  flowers  is  weak  and 
scanty,  and  lacking  the  power  to  fecundise  the  stigma.  The  remedy 
in  this  case  is  artificially  to  fertilise  the  flowers  by  applying  the 
pollen  to  the  stigma  by  the  aid  of  a  camel  rhair  pencil.  Too  close 
and  hot  an  atmosphere  at  the  time  the  trees  are  in  bloom  will  have 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS 


125 


the  same  effect,  therefore  always  ventilate  freely  at  this  time  in 
sunny  weather.  It  is  the  same  with  the  Apricot  as  the  Pear.  You 
will  find  the  stone  is  jelly-like.  You  cannot  keep  the  temperature 
too  low  whilst  the  Apricot  is  in  bloom—  say  from  40°  to  45°  at  night, 
with  air  all  night  and  day. 

Neotarines   Splitting 

Q.  Many  of  my  Nectarines  on  outdoor  trees  are  badly  split.  Is 
it  due  to  the  wet  summer  ? — ,/.  0.  H.,  Weylridge. 

A.  The  excessive  wet  is  most  probably  the  cause.  It  is  not  an 
uncommon  occurrence.  Extreme  drought  owing  to  failure  to  supply 


Blenheim  Orange.  Ribston  Pippin.  La 

THREE  GOOD  APPLES. 

the  trees  with  sufficient  water  ;  saturation  of  the  soil  and  overcrop- 
ping all  tend  to  induce  the  splitting  of  the  fruits.  Boards  are  some- 
times placed  on  the  borders  to  keep  off  heavy  rains.  Plums  and 
Apricots  are  liable  to  be  similarly  affected. 

Peach   Leaf  Blister 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  the  cause  of  my  outdoor  Peach  tree  leaves 
becoming  badly  blistered  in  April  ? — E.  W.  Tfr.,  Hastings. 

A.  This  is  due  to  the  attack  of  Peach  curl  or  Blister  fungus 
(Exoascus  deformans) ;  Cherries  and  Plums  are  also  attacked  by  it. 
It  is  a  troublesome  disease,  and  until  within  the  last  few  years  no 
remedy  has  been  found.  However,  a  preparation  called  Medela, 


126     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

made  by  Messrs.  G.  Bunyard  and  Co.,  the  Royal  Nurseries,  Maid- 
stone,  is  said  to  be  a  certain  cure. 

Pruning  Gooseberry  Bushes 

Q.  Will  you  please  tell  me  when  is  the  proper  time  to  prune 
Gooseberry  bushes  ?—  B.  J.  (7.,  Melton  Mowbray. 

A.  The  best  time  to  prune  Gooseberry  bushes  is  in  March,  just 
before  they  start  into  growth,  because  birds  during  severe  weather 
are  very  destructive  to  the  buds.  If  they  are  pruned  too  early, 
there  is  a  danger  of  the  few  buds  left  after  pruning  being  destroyed. 
If  all  the  branches  are  left  on  until  spring,  the  birds  are  not  so 
likely  to  do  serious  harm.  If  you  have  the  means  of  protecting  your 
trees  from  the  birds,  you  may  prune  them  any  time  between  Novem- 
ber and  March. 

Pruning  Pear   Trees 

Q.  My  Pear  trees  bear  little  fruit,  they  are  a  mass  of  growth. 
Ought  I  to  thin  out  the  latter  1— Anxious,  Sale. 

A.  There  are  too  many  small  spurs  bearing  only  leaf  buds  on 
your  trees.  These,  when  they  are  fully  developed  in  summer,  crowd 
the  trees  to  such  an  extent  that  a  minimum  amount  of  sunshine? 
light,  and  air  penetrates  amongst  the  branches  of  the  trees.  As  a 
consequence  weak  and  unripe  growth  results,  which  cannot  possibly 
produce  remunerative  crops  of  fruit.  The  best  way  of  remedying 
this  in  your  case  is  by  disbudding.  This  means  the  act  of  rubbing 
away,  with  the  finger  and  thumb,  the  weakest  of  the  young  shoots, 
which  will  appear  on  these  spurs  towards  the  end  of  April  or  the 
beginning  of  May,  as  soon  as  they  are  from  i  to  \  inch  long.  There 
will  probably  appear  on  each  of  the  spurs  from  three  to  five  of  these 
young  leaf  growths  ;  in  the  case  of  the  former,  one,  the  weakest, 
should  be  rubbed  off,  and  in  the  case  of  the  latter,  three  of  the 
weakest  should  be  similarly  rubbed  off. 

Myrobella  Plum   Hedge 

Q.  One  side  of  my  garden  has  a  hedge  formed  of  Myrobella  Plum. 
Will  you  please  inform  me  how  to  keep  same  trimmed  so  as  not  to 
take  up  too  much  room  ?— L.  J/.f  Catford. 

A.  If  the  hedge  iu  question  is  taking  too  much  space,  you  may 
cut  the  side  shoots  back  severely  in  the  autumn,  or  not  later  than  the 
end  of  February  next.  Young  shoots  will  grow  in  spring,  and  these 
may  be  cut  in  in  July. 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS  127 

Plum   Tree  Infested  by  Aphis 

Q.  I  send  you  cuttings  from  a  Plum  tree  to  get  your  opinion  of 
the  malady  and  what  you  would  recommend  to  cure.  The  whole  tree  is 
affected,  and  other  trees  in  its  neighbourhood  are  slightly  contami- 
nated by  it. — Coupar  Angus. 

A.  Your  tree  is  badly  affected  by  black  aphis.  The  best  way  of 
destroying  it  is  to  cut  away  all  the  badly  affected  points  of  the  young 
shoots  and  burn  them,  and  then  syringe  your  trees  copiously  with  the 
following  insecticide  :  Boil  2^  Ib.  of  Quassia  chips,  and  If  Ib.  of  soft 
soap,  adding  to  them  25  gallons  of  water.  This  is  a  cheap  and  effective 
remedy  for  getting  rid  of  aphis  of  all  sorts.  To  make  doubly  sure 
of  its  destruction  we  should  advise  you  to  spray  your  trees  in  winter 
with  the  burning  alkali  wash.  This  will  destroy  all  insect  life  it 
comes  in  contact  with,  without  injury  to  the  tree.  It  should  be 
applied  as  soon  as  the  trees  are  pruned  in  winter.  This  wash  may 
be  had  of  most  seed  merchants,  with  directions  how  to  use. 

Meaning  of  Freestone  and  Clingstone 

Q.  I  often  see  these  terms  used  in  reference  to  Plums  and  Peaches. 
Can  you  explain  1— T.  0.  A.,  Uxbridge. 

A.  The  term  freestone  means  that  the  flesh  parts  cleanly  from 
the  stone  when  ripe.  In  clingstone  varieties  the  opposite  is  the 
case.  Old  lime  rubble  or  mortar  rubbish  will  do  very  well  to  mix 
with  the  soil  for  fruit  trees.  Be  careful  not  to  over  do  it,  however, 
especially  if  the  ground  is  light. 

Gumming  in  Stone  Fruit  Trees 

Q.  Some  of  my  Cherry  and  Plum  trees  are  not  thriving ;  the 
shoots  exude  a  gummy  substance.  What  can  I  do  to  cure  them? — 
Southerner,  Hants. 

A.  Most  of  us  who  possess  or  have  the  management  of  gardens 
know  something  about  this  disease,  so  far,  at  least,  as  its  effect  upon 
the  trees  is  concerned.  No  fruit  trees  subject  to  it  can  have  a  long 
or  prosperous  life.  There  may  be — probably  there  is — a  predisposi- 
tion to  gumming  in  certain  trees.  The  Moorpark  Apricot  is  a  notable 
sufferer,  and  I  suppose,  speaking  generally,  gumming  is  often 
caused  by  some  injury  to  the  branches,  or  a  too  free  use  of  the  knife. 
The  fungus  spores  find  a  home  where  the  bark  is  broken,  and  subse- 
quently gum  is  seen  to  be  exuding  from  the  wound.  A  tight  shred,  by 
forcing  the  branch  into  contact  with  a  nail,  may  break  the  bark  and 
provide  a  genial  home  for  the  fungus.  When  gum  is  seen  exuding 


128      GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

from  a  branch  or  branches,  if  the  tree  is  to  be  restored,  cut  out 
the  infected  part,  and  put  on  a  poultice  of  cow  manure,  lime,  soot, 
and  clay,  filling  the  wound  with  it,  binding  it  on  with  a  piece  of 
cloth,  and  keeping  the  air  from  it  until  the  wound  has  healed  and 
filled  up  with  new  bark.  Trees  which  are  predisposed  to  gumming 
should  be  pruned  chiefly  in  summer,  and  the  knife  as  far  as  possible 
kept  off  them  in  the  winter  and  spring.  There  are  predisposing 
causes  in  cultivation,  the  most  common  being  planting  young  trees 
in  land  which  has  been  made  too  rich  with  manures. 

Mulching  Young  Fruit  Trees 

Q.  I  have  been  told  that  it  is  a  bad  plan  to  manure  the  ground 
for  young  fruit  trees  at  planting  time.  Is  there  any  objection  to 
giving  manure  afterwards?  If  not,  how  should  it  be  applied1? — 
Amateur,  Watford. 

A.  Many  people  adopt  the  commendable  practice  of  avoiding 
the  use  of  any  natural  manure  at  all  when  they  are  planting  their 
young  trees  in  autumn  or  spring,  for  they  fully  appreciate  the  fact 
that  there  is  already  sufficient  tendency  to  rampant  growth  without 
further  encouraging  it  with  stimulative  materials.  It  is,  however, 
most  desirable  to  do  something  for  the  trees  in  the  early  summer 
which  will  encourage  the  roots  to  remain  near  the  surface,  instead 
of  striking  downwards  into  the  cooler  lower  soil  as  soon  as  the 
weather  becomes  intensely  hot  and  dry.  To  this  end  the  grower 
should  give  as  much  water  as  may  be  necessary  to  moisten  the  soil 
to  a  depth  of  3  feet  or  thereabouts,  then  fork  over  the  surface 
and  apply  a  2-inch  mulching  of  short  manure.  The  food  virtues 
of  this  will  gradually  find  their  way  downwards,  and  the  covering 
will  tend  to  keep  the  surface  cool  and  moist,  and  thus  practically 
ensure  the  roots  remaining  near  the  top. 

Cordon  Gooseberries 

Q,  I  have  been  recommended  to  plant  cordon  Gooseberries 
against  a  fence  facing  west.  Do  you  advise  my  doing  so  1 — Grant, 
Dorking. 

A.  Cordon  Gooseberries  fruit  well  either  on  north,  south,  east, 
or  west  fences.  In  fact,  by  planting  a  few  on  each  aspect  a  welcome 
succession  of  fruit  is  obtained.  Either  single  or  multiple  stemmed 
cordons  may  be  chosen,  the  management  of  the  plants  does  not 
present  any  serious  difficulties.  Summer  pinching  of  the  young 
shoots  is  necessary  to  admit  light  to  the  fruits  and  the  buds  on 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS 


129 


the  stems,  while  the  winter  pruning  will  simply  consist  of  hard 
cutting  back  to  the  two  basal  buds.  Keep  the  surface  loose  and  free 
from  weeds,  and  maintain  the  supplies  of  available  food  by  mulching 
in  May  with  the  finest  natural  manure  that  is  at  command. 


C   SHOWS  POINT  OF  SUMMER  AS  A  RESULT  OF  STOPPING  THE 

PRUNING  PEAR  ;    B  POINT   OF  SHOOT       FURTHER      GROWTHS 

WINTER  PRUNING.  WILL  FORM  AS  AT  A.       THESE 

TOO      ARE     STOPPED    WHEN    A 

FEW      INCHES      LONG.       PRUNE 

BACK  TO  B  IN  WINTER. 

Unfruitful  Strawberries 

Q.  My  Strawberry  plants  have  far  too  many  leaves  on  them,  and 
the  leaves  are  too  big.  Can  you  give  me  any  idea  of  the  reason  for 
this  ?  Many  of  the  plants  did  not  flower,  and  the  others  had  not 
much  fruit.— S.  A.  G.,  Croydon. 

A.  Your  large,  unfruitful  plants  of  Strawberries  have  probably 
been  layers  taken  from  others  which  were  unfruitful.  Destroy  them 
and  plant  fresh  runners  in  August  or  early  September.  Strawberry 
layers  should  only  be  taken  from  plants  that  are  fruitful. 

Raspberries   Unsatisfactory 

Q.  My  Raspberry  canes  (which  were  planted  sixteen  years  ago) 
have  borne  very  little  fruit  this  summer,  and  the  new  growths  for 
j 


130     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

next  year's  crop  are  also  disappointing.  Every  autumn  I  have 
stirred  the  surface  soil  very  slightly  and  then  laid  on  a  fairly  large 
quantity  of  stable  manure.  Is  it  possible  that  I  have  given  them 
too  much  of  this  "I  — Canes,  Haivick. 

A.  Your  Raspberry  plants  are  very  old,  and  the  best  thing  you 
can  do  is  to  make  a  new  plantation.  The  medium  sized  young  canes 
from  your  old  plantation  may  be  used  for  the  new  one,  but  it  would 
be  more  satisfactory  to  purchase  new  canes.  The  old  plants  may 
be  retained  for  one  more  year  until  the  new  ones  are  remunerative. 
In  the  meantime  allow  the  manure  to  lie  on  the  surface,  and  do  not 
dig  it  in  either  this  autumn  or  in  spring.  The  pruning  of  Rasp- 
berries is  simple.  The  fruit  is  produced  on  the  previous  year's 
growth  ;  thus  the  shoots  that  have  fruited  are  cut  out  as  soon  as 
the  fruit  is  gathered.  The  young  growths  are,  of  course,  taken  care 
of  and  tied  up  ;  they  will  fruit  the  next  year. 

Gathering  Pears 

Q.  Can  you  give  me  a  few  hints  on  gathering  Pears  ? — Amateur •, 
S.  Wales. 

A.  Test  the  fruits  by  gently  lifting,  when  if  they  part  easily 
from  the  trees  it  may  usually  be  safely  taken  as  a  sign  of  readiness 
for  gathering,  though  not  for  eating.  Late  sorts  should  be  allowed 
to  hang  as  long  as  possible  ;  premature  gathering  of  these  will 
cause  them  to  shrivel  and  be  tough  and  leathery  in  texture,  devoid 
of  juiciness  and  flavour. 

The  Loganberry 

Q.  We  are  thinking  of  planting  the  Loganberry  here,  but  as  our 
soil  is  very  heavy,  with  yellow  clay  subsoil,  would  you  inform  me  if 
you  think  it  would  do  in  this  soil? — Sutton,  Surrey. 

A.  Yes  ;  you  may  plant  the  Loganberry  in  the  heavy  soil ;  the 
plants  will  succeed  very  well.  But  it  is  advisable,  of  course,  to 
trench  the  ground,  and  thoroughly  break  up  the  subsoil,  leaving  it 
below,  however.  The  Loganberry  grows  vigorously  in  good  soil,  and 
is  an  admirable  plant  for  covering  unsightly  fences,  ugly  corners,  etc., 
or  it  maybe  trained  as  an  espalier.  It  fruits  best  when  the  branches 
are  spread  out.  The  pruning  is  similar  to  that  needed  by  the 
Raspberry.  Cut  out  the  old  growths  as  soon  as  they  have  fruited, 
and  train  in  the  new  to  fruit  the  following  year.  The  best  fruits  are 
produced  by  canes  of  the  previous  summer's  growth  :  removing  the 
old  shoots  encourages  the  development  of  new  ones. 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS  131 

Red  Currants   Failing 

Q.  I  have  sent  you  a  few  leaves  of  my  Red  Currants,  also  a  small 
box  of  fruit.  Would  you  please  tell  me  how  I  can  prevent  their 
getting  so  black  1  The  leaves  first  get  in  a  sticky  state  and  then 
turn  black  just  as  if  soot  had  been  thrown  over  them.  Do  you  think 
smuts  from  chimneys  would  cause  it  1  We  have  a  brick  kiln  near. — 
</.,  Bradford. 

A.  In  the  first  place  your  Currant  tree  leaves  have  been  infested 


PEAR   DURONDEAU. 

badly  with  aphides,  and  the  matter  from  them  has  covered  the 
leaves  with  a  sticky  substance  which  has  been  favourable  to  the 
collection  of  dust,  and  soot  from  the  brick  kiln.  The  only  thing  you 
can  do  is  to  syringe  the  bushes  early  in  the  season  and  free  the 
foliage  from  the  aphides,  and  frequently  afterwards  to  dislodge  the 
dust  and  soot. 

Black   Currants   Affected   with   Big  Bud 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  how  to  cure  my  Black  Currants  of  this  most 
troublesome  pest  ?— Anxious,  Esher. 

A.  Since  the  trees  are  young,  having  been  planted  only  two  years, 


132     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

it  would  be  rather  unwise  to  uproot  them  all  on  account  of  the  big 
bud.  A  better  plan  is  to  cut  them  all  hard  back  now  (April).  Cut 
each  infested  shoot  down  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground,  and 
remove  by  hand  any  suspiciously  large  buds  as  they  appear.  After 
this  hard  pruning,  which  at  this  season  will  mean  the  loss  of  a  year's 
crop,  dust  the  bushes  with  a  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphur,  and  repeat 
the  application  after  an  interval  of  two  weeks.  Next  spring  dust 
again  with  lime  and  sulphur,  using  1  part  unslaked  lime  to  2  parts 
flowers  of  sulphur.  Thoroughly  dust  the  bushes  over  when  they  are 
wet,  and  continue  to  do  so  every  few  weeks  until  the  middle  of  May. 
After  pruning  carefully  collect  all  the  prunings  and  burn  them. 
Yes ;  it  is  quite  likely  that  the  old  bushes  will  be  affected  since  the 
disease  is  now  present  in  your  garden.  As  a  preventive  dust  the 
bushes  over  with  the  lime  and  sulphur  mixture  and  pick  off  any  buds 
unduly  swollen.  If  you  intend  to  propagate  new  plants  from  cut- 
tings be  sure  to  do  so  from  a  clean  stock. 

Gathering  and  Storing  Filberts 

Q.  Please  say  how  Filbert  Nuts  should  be  stored.—^.  W.  W., 
Kent. 

A.  The  Nuts  should  be  obtained  on  a  fine  dry  day,  not  separating 
them  from  the  husks.  We  have  found  it  a  good  plan  to  lay  them 
out  on  mats  and  sacks  for  a  few  days  ;  they  are  then  readily  picked 
up  and  carried  to  shelter  at  night  or  should  rain  set  in.  Afterwards, 
they  may  be  stored  in  jars  or  boxes,  or  be  spread  out  evenly  and 
thinly  upon  the  floor  of  a  cool,  dry  shed. 

Keeping  Medlars 

Q.  Will  you  tell  me  the  best  way  to  keep  and  ripen  Medlars  1— 
J.  Astridge,  Hants. 

A.  Gather  the  fruits  before  they  are  frozen  on  the  trees,  and 
store  them  on  shelves  in  a  cool,  airy  room  where  they  will  soften  and 
become  fit  for  use.  You  only  need  guard  against  damp  and  decay  of 
the  fruits. 

Replanting  Raspberries 

Q.  I  have  a  large  stock  of  canes  which  have  been  allowed  to  run 
riot.  They  have  grown  over  8  feet  high,  and  though  there  is  every 
indication  of  a  good  supply  of  fruit  we  have  not  been  able  to  get  a 
handful  from  the  complete  row  of  over  80  feet  run.  I  thought  of 
transplanting  them  this  year  to  a  new  situation  and  of  making  them 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS  133 

form  a  screen  round  a  plot  which  I  propose  to  make  into  a  fruit 
garden.  Do  you  recommend  this,  and  how  can  I  proceed  so  as  to 
make  them  form  such  a  screen  ?  —T.  E.,  Mitcham. 

A .  Yes  ;  the  Raspberries  would  do  well  planted  to  form  a  screen 
round  the  fruit  quarter  in  the  garden.  The  planting  should  be  done 
in  November.  Select  canes  of  medium  strength  and  discard  the 
gross  and  weakly  ones.  Dig  the  soil  deeply  and  put  in  some  rotted 
manure,  and  after  planting  is  done  put  on  a  good  surface  mulch  of 
littery  manure.  The  canes  should  be  planted  about  9  inches  apart. 
Black  Currants  do  best  in  a  cool  position  ;  the  Red  and  White 
varieties  require  an  open,  sunny  place. 

How  to  Keep  Walnuts 

Q.  Would  you  kindly  inform  me  as  to  the  best  way  to  keep  Wal- 
nuts when  they  are  ripe,  so  as  to  have  them  good  for  some  length  of 
time  1 — A.  S.,  Surrey. 

A.  When  the  Nuts  are  ripe,  spread  them  out  thinly  just  long 
enough  to  get  the  shells  dry,  then  place  them  in  bottles  or  jars,  and 
securely  cork  the  latter.  Store  the  bottles  or  jars  in  a  cool,  dry  cup- 
board. 

Q.  Referring  to  the  above  question.  As  we  have  rather  a  large 
quantity  this  season,  would  tins  such  as  biscuit  tins  answer  the  pur- 
pose if  they  were  fastened  down  securely  ?  We  put  some  in  a  large 
pot  with  a  piece  of  thick  tin  for  a  cover  and  buried  them  in  the  earth 
floor  of  the  potting  shed,  but  they  did  not  keep.  Was  it  because 
they  were  too  damp  or  not  sufficiently  airtight? — A.  Scrivener, 
Bucks. 

A.  Yes  ;  if  you  can  seal  up  the  biscuit  tins  the  Nuts  may  be  kept 
in  them.  The  Nuts,  buried  in  the  earth  as  you  state,  would  rot,  un- 
less they  had  been  first  dried  and  then  kept  in  airtight  vessels. 

Blackberries  for  the  Garden 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  grow  Blackberries.  Should  I  plant  the  com- 
mon kind,  or  are  there  better  sorts'!— Ignoramus,  Bath. 

A.  So  widely  are  excellent  Blackberries  appreciated  that  one  can- 
not help  feeling  surprised  that  they  are  not  far  more  extensively 
planted  in  gardens.  They  do  not  involve  either  a  great  deal  of 
space  or  a  considerable  amount  of  skilled  attention,  and  the  crops  of 
fruit  which  they  bear  annually  will  be  more  than  welcome.  I  should 
advise  planters  to  beware  of  the  majority  of  American  varieties,  for 
some  of  the  seedlings  of  our  own  country  are  superior  in  every 


134     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

respect.  A  really  good  form  of  the  Parsley  Leaved  Bramble  cannot 
be  beaten,  but  apart  from  this  selected  wildings  are  the  things  to 
choose.  Planted  in  deeply  dug  and  generously  manured  ground  in 
November,  watered  with  liquid  manure  freely  after  perfect  establish- 
ment, and  mulched  with  good  manure  each  winter,  they  will  thrive 
and  crop  grandly  for  years.  Practically  the  only  attention  demanded 
in  the  way  of  cutting  is  to  remove  all  old  shoots  for  which  there  is 
not  room  after  the  fruit  is  gathered. 

Morello  Cherry 

Q.  Is  this  a  profitable  fruit  to  grow  on  walls  1 — E.  W.,  Hendon. 

A .  The  Morello  Cherry  is  valuable  for  covering  the  walls  of  cottages, 
on  which  it  hardly  ever  fails  to  produce  good  crops.  It  will  thrive 
on  a  wall  facing  north.  The  fruits  sell  well,  as  they  come  in  after 
the  glut  of  other  fruit  is  over.  This  Cherry  grows  and  produces  well 
on  any  aspect,  and  the  simplest  kind  of  training  suits  it  best.  Plant 
healthy,  fan-trained  trees,  and  let  them  spread  out  evenly  in  all 
directions.  Keep  them  clean  during  the  growing  season  by  dusting 
with  tobacco  powder  or  syringing  with  tobacco  water,  dipping 
the  points  of  the  young  shoots  into  the  mixture.  Cover  with  nets  to 
keep  off  birds,  so  as  to  let  the  fruits  get  fully  ripe.  In  winter  cut  out 
weakly  and  exhausted  fruit,  and  nail  in  the  young  shoots  of  the  pre- 
ceding summer's  growth  full  length,  as  the  Morello  bears  the  finest 
fruit  on  the  young  wood. 

Pruning  Roots  of  Pear  Trees 

Q.  I  should  like  your  advice  about  two  Pear  trees  which  I  have. 
They  are  wall  trees  facing  west  and  south-west,  very  vigorous,  and 
plenty  of  bloom  every  year  and  set  fruits,  but  when  these  get  about 
the  size  of  Peas  they  fall  off.  Every  year  this  happens  I  get  no 
fruit.  This  has  been  going  on  for  nine  years.  They  always  bloom 
the  second  time  each  season,  and  seeing  your  article  on  root  pruning 
1  thought  I  would  try  the  operation.  I  took  out  a  trench  2  feet 
deep,  about  3  feet  away  from  the  stem,  half  way  round  the  tree,  but 
could  not  find  any  roots  to  prune ;  the  roots  seem  to  strike  down 
into  the  subsoil  close  to  the  wall.  I  could  not  find  any  short  fibrous 
roots  near  the  surface  at  all.  If  you  could  advise  me  on  the  subject 
I  should  feel  grateful.— 8.  C\,  Devonport. 

A.  We  are  rather  surprised  you  did  not  find  any  roots  after  dig- 
ging 2  feet  deep  at  3  feet  from  the  stem  of  a  tree  nine  years  old- 
Possibly  they  have  gone  under  the  wall  to  the  other  side.  If  you 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS  135 

can  get  at  the  other  side,  try  to  find  them  there.  If  this  cannot  be 
done,  the  next  best  thing  to  do  is  to  open  out  the  trench  again,  dig- 
ging it  1  foot  deeper  and  clearing  all  the  soil  out.  You  must  then 
tunnel  under  the  tree  until  you  come  to  the  main  tap  roots,  which 
you  will  find  not  far  from  a  direct  line  of  the  stem  of  the  tree.  Cut 
them  through  and  leave  in  the  ground.  Fill  in  the  space  tunnelled, 
ramming  the  soil  hard,  and  we  hope  the  effect  will  be  to  bring  your 
trees  round  to  fruit  bearing  condition. 

Standard  Fruit  Trees  for  Sandy  Soil 

Q.  I  have  a  small  space  in  my  garden  in  which  I  wish  to  put 
standard  fruit  trees  ;  the  soil  is  pure  sand.  I  have  had  holes  5  feet 
square  and  3  feet  deep  dug,  into  which  I  intend  putting  soil  and 
manure.  It  is  on  the  north  slope  of  the  hill.  I  have  room  for  seven- 
teen trees  9  feet  apart,  and  would  be  very  glad  if  you  could  advise 
me  what  trees  I  ought  to  have.  I  thought  of  having  Apples,  Pears, 
Plums,  and  Cherries  if  I  could  get  them  suitable  for  the  ground.  I 
want  them  all  for  dessert  fruit,  not  cooking,  if  possible. — Spindrift, 
Farnham. 

A.  The  following  varieties  of  the  different  kinds  of  fruit  you 
require  we  hope  will  suit  you  well.  They  are  strong  growing,  fruit- 
ful sorts.  Six  Apples,  all  dessert :  Mr.  Gladstone,  ripe  July  and 
August ;  Lady  Sudeley,  September;  James  Grieve,  October1;  Cox's 
Orange  Pippin,  November  to  Christmas;  Allington  Pippin, 
December  and  January ;  Allen's  Everlasting,  January  to 
March.  Four  Pears,  all  dessert :  Williams'  Bon  Chretien,  Septem- 
ber ;  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  October  ;  Emile  d'Heyst,  November  ; 
Doyenne  du  Cornice,  December.  Four  Plums:  Reine  Claude  de 
Bavay  (Gage),  Old  Green  Gage,  Kirk's,  Transparent  Gage.  Three 
Cherries  :  Kentish  Bigarreau,  Guigne  d'Annonay,  Governor  Wood. 

Cherry  for  West  Fence 

Q.  Which  is  a  good  eating  Cherry  to  grow  on  tarred  boards, 
aspect  west,  soil  gravel  and  clay1? — G.  E.,  Sussex. 

A.  Frogmore  Bigarreau,  light,  and  Black  Tartarian,  dark,  are 
suitable  sorts. 

Three  Late  Keeping  Apples 

Q.  Which  three  late  keeping  Apples  are  most  suitable  for  an 
orchard  as  standards,  soil  gravel  and  clay  1 — G.  J£.,  Sussex. 

A.  Newton  Wonder,  Bramley's  Seedling,  and  King  Edward  VII. 


136     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Manure   for   Strawberries 

Q.  I  have  been  advised  to  dress  Strawberry  beds  heavily  with 
stable  manure.  This  I  have  not,  but  have  a  good  quantity  of 
fowl  manure.  Would  this  do  as  well  if  used  in  smaller  quantities  1 
— /.  JT.,  Devon. 

A.  Littery  manure  is  put  on  as  a  mulch  to  protect  the  roots  as 
well  as  to  feed  the  plants.  Fowl  manure  would  not  answer  the 
purpose  as  well,  though  you  may  apply  it  at  the  rate  of  1  bushel 
per  square  rod  of  ground  in  spring.  It  would  feed  the  plants, 
but  not  protect  them  much. 

Cuttings  of  Gooseberries   and   Red  and  White   Currants 

Q.  I  understand  Gooseberries  and  Currants  are  readily  increased 
from  cuttings.  Will  you  me  tell  how  to  prepare  these  1 — Amateur, 
Berks. 

A.  Cuttings  are  made  in  October  from  the  past  summer's  growth. 
Like  Rose  cuttings,  they  should  be  about  12  inches  in  length,  but  it 
is  essential  to  cut  out  all  the  buds  with  the  exception  of  about  four 
of  the  uppermost,  from  which  the  bush  is  produced.  Were  the  others 
left  they  would  be  a  constant  source  of  annoyance  from  the  suckers 
they  would  certainly  produce.  Insert  the  cuttings  similarly  to  those  of 
Roses.  In  making  Black  Currant  cuttings  the  lower  buds  are  not 
cut  out. 

FRUITS    UNDER   GLASS 

Nectarines  Shrivelling 

Q.  I  enclose  herewith  a  Nectarine.  Will  you  tell  me  the  cause 
of  its  shrivelling  and,  in  many  cases,  the  cause  of  the  non- stoning  of 
the  fruit  1  The  tree  is  well  established  in  an  unheated  leanto  Peach 
house.  Also,  what  should  be  the  night  temperature  of  the  house 
after  the  blossoms  have  set  1 — Ignorant,  Hampshire. 

A.  The  Nectarines  have  been  mildewed  when  they  were  in  a 
green  state,  and  it  is  the  cause  of  the  fruit's  decay  now.  The  soil  is 
deficient  in  lime,  and  in  consequence  the  fruit  did  not  stone  properly. 
After  the  fruits  have  set,  a  night  temperature  of  60°  will  be  suffi- 
cient. 

Peaches   Stringy 

Q.  Could  you  tell  me  the  cause  of  Peaches  getting  stringy  towards 
the  stone  1— C.  />.,  Cheshire. 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS 


137 


A.  We  think  that  this  is  a  question  of  the  varieties  of  Peaches 
you  may  happen  to  grow,  as  the  Clingstone  varieties  often  have 
this  failing.  You  say  that  your  trees  are  very  healthy,  and  the  fruits 
very  fine,  therefore  the  stringiness  cannot  be  the  fault  of  the  cultural 
treatment. 

Fertilising  Melon  Flowers 

Q.  I  understand  that  the  female  flowers  of  Melons  have  to  be 
fertilised ;  could  you  tell  me  how  to  tell  the  female  flowers  and  how 
to  fertilise  them  1—G.  V.  W.,  Cheshire. 


GROWTH  OF  MELON  SHOWING 
MALE    OR  POLLEN  FLOWER. 


MELON  SHOOT  SHOWING 
FEMALE  FLOWER.  NOTE 
THE  EMBRYO  FRUIT  AT  A. 


A.  You  will  readily  recognise  the  female  flowers  of  the  Melon 
by  the  embryo  fruit  at  the  base,  and  by  the  absence  of  anthers  (bear- 
ing pollen),  while  the  male  flowers  bear  anthers  only,  no  stigma.  To 
fertilise  the  female  blossoms,  pluck  a  male  flower  and  apply  the 
pollen  from  the  anthers  to  the  stigma  of  the  former.  The  best  time 
to  do  this  is  about  midday.  The  atmosphere  is  then  likely  to  be 
dry ;  a  dry  air  is  necessary  to  fertilisation.  In  wet,  dull  weather 
Melon  fruits  often  fail  to  "  set "  or  form. 

Pears   and   Plums   under   Glass 

Q.  I  have  a  Peach  house,  facing  south,  with  a  high  wall,  and  I 
should  like  to  grow  some  Cordon  Pears  and  Plums  on  the  back,  as 
it  is  not  a  very  good  district  for  growing  fruit  outside.  If  you  think 
it  is  a  suitable  position,  I  should  be  glad  if  you  would  name  a  few 
varieties.—  W.  W.,  Walsall. 


138     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

A.  Yes;  you  may  grow  Cordon  Pears  and  Plum  trees  on  the 
back  wall  of  your  Peach  house  successfully,  if  you  do  not  force  them 
too  hard.  Marie  Louise  Marie  Louise  d'Uccle,  Souvenir  du  Congres, 
Durondeau,  Pitmaston  Duchess,  Doyenne  du  Cornice,  Louise  P.onne 
of  Jersey,  and  Williams'  Bon  Chretien,  Pears ;  and  Denniston's 
Superb,  Green  Gage,  Jefferson,  Kirke's,  and  Transparent  Gage  Plums 
may  be  planted.  It  is  impossible  to  force  Plums  and  Pears  as 
Grapes,  Peaches  and  Nectarines  may  be  forced.  They  will  not 
succeed  in  a  high  temperature.  Until  the  fruits  are  formed  an 
average  temperature  of  50°  is  high  enough,  afterwards  it  may  be 
increased  to  60°. 


MALE   AND  FEMALE  FLOWERS  OF  THE  MELON.       THE  LATTER 
ARE      EASILY       DISTINGUISHED        BY       THE      EMBRYO      FRUIT 
BELOW  THE  PETALS.      THE  THIRD  FIGURE   SHOWS  HOW  POLLI- 
NATION IS   CARRIED  OUT. 

Cherries  and  Tomatoes  Grown  in  Same  House 

Q.  Can  Cherries  be  forced  profitably  so  as  to  get  the  house 
cleared  by  the  end  of  May  ?  to  be  followed  by  Tomatoes  that  have 
been  brought  on  in  5-inch  pots  in  another  house. — G.  W.  T.,  Stajfs. 

A.  Cherries  in  pots  can  be  successfully  forced  to  produce  Cherries 
from  the  first  to  the  last  week  in  May.  The  plants  should  be  brought 
under  glass  the  first  week  in  December ;  started  in  low  temperature 
(40°),  and  forced  very  slowly  without  exciting  the  trees  until  the  fruit 
is  set,  when  more  heat,  up  to  60°,  may  be  applied.  Governor  Wood, 
Early  Rivers,  Frogmore  P>igarreau,  and  Black  Tartarian  are  suitable 
sorts. 


FRUIT  GROWING  PROBLEMS  139 

Nectarines   Splitting 

Q.  Can  you  say  why  ray  Nectarines  grown  under  glass  have  split 
badly  1—G.  E.  H.,  Worcester. 

A.  The  cause  of  the  Nectarines  splitting  is  insufficient  ventila- 
tion during  hot  weather.  Temperatures  under  glass  rise  in  conse- 
quence, causing  so  great  an  acceleration  in  the  flow  of  sap  as  partly 
to  congest  the  arteries  through  which  it  flows.  Hence  an  overflow, 
and  the  consequent  splitting  of  the  fruit.  Remedy  :  Reduce  the 
temperature  by  free  ventilation  night  and  day  whilst  the  hot 
weather  lasts.  You  may  safely  let  the  temperature  drop  to  50°  Fah. 
or  lower  at  night ;  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  with  sun  heat  and  plenty 
of  air  in  the  house,  it  may  rise  to  89°  or  85°  for  a  few  hours. 

On  Growing   Cucumbers 

Q.  I  am  anxious  to  be  able  to  gather  Cucumbers  in  April.  Will 
they  need  a  hotbed,  and  when  should  I  sow  the  seed  ? — E.  J.  A'., 
Enjield. 

A.  First  get  together  suitable  material  for  filling  the  pits.  The 
best  material  for  keeping  up  a  steady  heat  is  that  composed  of 
freshly  gathered  up  leaves  and  short  stable  manure  mixed  well 
together  and  turned  several  times  in  an  open  shed,  previous  to 
filling  the  Cucumber  pit.  Sowing  the  seed  in  small  pots  early 
in  January  is  the  plan  usually  adopted,  as  this  ensures  no  check 
in  potting  on.  Use  soil  fairly  damp  and  plunge  in  the  hotbed, 
giving  no  water  until  germination  takes  place.  When  the  third 
true  leaf  appears  they  may  be  planted  out  into  mounds  of  rich  soil. 
Syringe  the  plants  frequently  with  tepid  water,  and  see  that  a  con- 
stant and  sufficient  heat  is  maintained.  A  night  temperature  of 
60°-65°  is  best,  rising  10°  during  the  day  without  sun  heat.  Keep 
free  from  draughts.  Cucumbers  require  a  warm  atmosphere  with 
little  ventilation. 


CHAPTER   X 
Trees  and  Shrubs 
Self  Clinging  Climbers 

Q.  Will  you  please  give  me  a  list  of  self  clinging  climbers,  other 
than  Ivy,  suitable  for  a  cement  wall  facing  south  ?— S.  H.  P.,  Belfast. 

A.  The  following  are  suitable  :  Hydrangea  petiolaris,  Vitis  semi- 
cordata,  and  of  course  Ampelopsis  Veitchi.  The  choice  of  self 
clinging  climbers,  excluding  Ivy,  is  very  limited,  but  these  three  are 
good  growers  and  thrive  in  most  places. 

Planting  Bed  of  Flowering  Shrubs 

Q.  I  enclose  a  rough  sketch  of  bed  24  feet  long,  12  feet  wide, 
with  wall  3  feet  high  at  back  facing  east,  well  sheltered  by  house 
and  buildings.  Will  you  advise  the  best  flowering  shrubs  and  bush 
Roses  to  grow  for  garden  decoration  intermixed  with  hardy  annuals, 
and,  finally,  bedding  out  plants  1  I  wish  to  make  a  tennis  lawn  on 
south-west  side  of  wall,  but  I  want  to  hide  it  from  the  other  part 
of  the  garden  without  having  the  shrubs  too  high  and  cumbersome. 
Will  you  also  advise  how  to  plant?  I  should  like  bush  Hoses  of 
the  Sweet  Briar  class,  but  do  not  wish  to  confine  myself  to  that 
class  alone. — Beginner,  Blandford. 

A.  Taking  the  part  of  the  house  nearest  the  bed,  we  should  plant 
the  following  shrubs  and  Roses,  which  would  occupy  a  width  say  of 
about  6  feet.  Commencing  near  the  Bay  tree,  plant  Genista  andre- 
anus,  Rose  Aglaia,  Philadelphus  grandiflorus,  Veronica  Traversii, 
Lilac  Madame  Lemoine,  Spartium  junceum,  Rose  Hiawatha 
on  stump  or  pole.  Then,  starting  3  feet  away  from  these  plants, 
Rose  Blush  Rambler,  standard  Pyrus  Malus  floribunda,  Hybrid 
Sweet  Briar  Lady  Penzance,  Buddleia  veitchiana,  Hybrid  Sweet 
Briar  Anne  of  Geierstein,  standard  double  flowering  Cherry  Jas.  H. 
Veitch,  Forsythia  suspensa,  Rose  Rubin.  Towards  the  outer  side  of 
bed,  starting  near  Rose  Blush  Rambler,  plant  Weigela  E.  Rathke, 
Rose  Goldfinch,  Rose  Conrad  F.  Meyer  Spiraea  A.  Waterer,  Rose, 
Tausendschon,  Guelder  Rose,  Hybrid  Sweet  Briar,  Amy  Robsart, 
Rose  Gruss  an  Teplitz,  Rose  Leuchtstern,  Pyrus  Malus  angustifolia. 

140 


TEEES  AND  SHRUBS  141 

Should  you  want  a  few  slow  growing  subjects  to  finish  off  with 
plant  Yucca  flaccida,  double  flowering  Gorse,  Fuchsia  Riecartoni. 
Caryopteris  Mastacanthus,  and  Hibiscus  Lotus  albus.  Allow  the 
Roses  to  grow  as  free  bushes,  and  do  not  crowd  any  of  the  plants, 
rather  leave  some  out  altogether.  One  cannot  quite  definitely  say 
how  to  arrange  unless  one  is  on  the  spot,  but  this  is  a  general  idea. 

Evergreen  Shrubs   to  Grow  Beneath   Austrian  Pine 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  if  there  is  any  evergreen  shrub  that  will 
thrive  beneath  an  Austrian  Pine  ? — E.  H.  T.,  Southampton. 

A.  The  best  evergreen  shrubs  to  grow  beneath  Austrian  Pines 
are  Rhododendron  ponticum,  Aucuba  japonica,  Berberis  Aquifo- 
lium,  Periwinkle,  St.  John's  Wort  (Hypericum  calycinum),  and 
common  Ivy.  The  Pine  leaves  are  detrimental  to  many  shrubs, 
but  the  above  plants  succeed  fairly  well,  more  especially  when  the 
leafage  is  not  very  dense. 

Shrubs  and  Plants  for   Border   Facing  North 

Q.  Please  give  a  list  of  shrubs  and  plants  suitable  for  north 
border. — M.  8.  S.,  Hazlemere. 

A.  Aucuba,  Laurustinus,  Euonymus,  Lilac  (Syringa),  Laurel, 
Deutzia,  Spiraea  (S.  aruncus  being  very  suitable),  Campanula, 
Anemone,  Sunflower,  Veronica,  Michaelmas  Daisies,  Gaillardia, 
Delphinium,  herbaceous  Phloxes  and  Funkia,  tuberous  Begonia, 
Fuchsia,  Phlox  Drummondii,  Mignonette,  Stocks,  Asters,  Marigolds, 
and  Marguerites  are  suitable. 

Plants   to   form    Strong   Fence 

Q.  I  am  about  to  put  a  fence  around  a  plot  of  ground  intended 
for  garden,  and  I  thought  of  planting  a  Myrobalan  Plum  for  a  quick 
growing  and  an  almost  impregnable  fence.  Should  be  glad  if  you  will 
give  your  opinion  on  the  following :  Would  it  be  wise  to  mix  the 
Myrobalan  Plum  with  Privet  or  not  ?  Would  it  add  to  beautifying 
the  place  if  fronting  the  road  was  planted  with  say  Hornbeam  or 
Hornbeam  and  Privet  mixed,  or  same  as  above?  Do  you  advise 
Holly  for  the  front,  say  bushes  about  2£  feet  in  height? — W.  M., 
Lynn. 

A.  Myrobella  Plum  and  Privet  would  form  a  very  good  fence  or 
hedge.  Put  in  three  plants  of  the  former  and  then  one  of  the  latter. 
Yes  ;  Holly  would  do  splendidly  for  a  front  fence.  Put  in  the  plants 
zigzag  fashion  and  about  15  inches  apart  from  plant  to  plant. 


142     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Pruning   Deutzia 

Q.  This  flowering  shrub  has  been  very  beautiful  in  my  garden,  but 
I  am  at  a  loss  as  to  how  to  prune  it.  Please  advise.— 7^.  A.  M.} 
King's  Lynn. 

A.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to  thin  out  to  the  base  feeble  and 
weak  growths  where  they  are  crowded,  and  to  leave  the  plant  in  such 
a  condition  that  it  appears  shapely.  This  may  be  done  as  soon  as  it 
has  finished  flowering.  If  you  cut  it  hard  down,  as  you  propose 
doing,  it  would  simply  give  rise  to  an  abundance  of  young  and  use- 
less growth. 

On  Planting  Trees 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  of  your  advice  as  to  the  proper  method 
of  planting  trees.  Which  is  the  best  Pine  to  plant  to  form  a  screen  ? 
— Midland. 

A.  Since  the  soil  is  a  tenacious  clay  and  presumably  not  well 
drained,  the  stations  in  which  the  trees  are  to  be  planted  should  be 
dug  out  to  a  depth  of  2^  or  3  feet ;  the  width  of  the  stations  should 
be  in  proportion  to  the  trees  or  shrubs  to  be  planted  ;  in  your  soil 
they  cannot  be  too  large.  Place  broken  bricks  at  the  bottom,  and 
follow  with  lime  rubble  and  rough  turf.  Plant  the  trees  to  their 
previous  depth,  and  carefully  spread  out  all  the  roots  before  covering 
in  the  soil.  If  possible,  some  good,  coarse,  turfy  loam  should  be  in- 
troduced with  the  garden  soil  at  the  time  of  planting,  but  the  soil 
which  immediately  covers  the  roots  should  be  tine.  One  of  the  best 
Pines  to  form  a  screen  is  the  Corsican  Pine,  Pinus  Laricio  ;  it  is  of 
rapid  growth,  and  rabbits  and  hares  are  said  not  to  interfere  with  it. 
In  planting  Pines  and  Lombardy  Poplars  to  form  a  screen  they 
should  be  placed  rather  closely  together,  so  that  the  alternate  trees 
may  be  removed  after  a  year  or  two.  The  distance  apart  depends 
entirely  upon  the  size  of  the  trees  at  the  time  they  leave  the  nursery- 
man's hands.  In  addition  to  the  Lombardy  Poplar  and  the  Corsican 
Pine,  the  following  are  suitable  to  form  a  screen  or  wind  break  : 
Hornbeam,  Larch,  Austrian  Pine,  and  Douglas  Spruce. 

When  to  Transplant  Shrubs 

Q.  Please  tell  me  the  best  time  to  transplant  the  shrubs 
mentioned. — H.  W.  K.,  Catford. 

A.  Rhododendrons  and  Azaleas  can  be  transplanted  with  safety 
in  early  April,  and  we  should  advise  you  to  defer  the  operation  until 
that  season.  The  Mock  Orange,  Berberis,  and  Clerodendron  may  all 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  143 

be  removed  in  October.  Transplanting  will  not  delay  the  time  of 
flowering  of  your  strong  growing  Clerodendron  trichotomnm  ;  it  is 
more  likely  to  induce  it  to  flower.  Lilies  may  be  lifted  in  October 
and  stored  in  dry  silver  sand  for  the  winter  in  a  frostproof  shed. 

Planting    Ampelopsis 

Q.  I  should  be  much  obliged  if  you  could  tell  me  the  best  time 
to  plant  Ampelopsis  Veitchi  and  any  special  cultural  hints.—  A.  E.  B., 
Watford. 

A.  The  best  time  to  plant  is  in  early  November  or  late  October, 
although  planting  may  be  carried  out  between  October  and  the  end 
of  March  when  the  weather  is  mild.  This  plant  is  of  the  simplest 
cultivation,  and  all  you  have  to  do  is  to  attach  the  shoots  to  the  wall 
to  give  it  a  start. 

Hedge  Round  Garden 

Q.  I  am  thinking  of  planting  a  hedge  round  my  cottage  garden,  I 
want  one  that  will  grow  strong  and  quickly.  I  thought  perhaps 
Privet  would  be  most  suitable. — C.  G.  B.,  Banngstoke. 

A.  You  would  probably  find  Privet  the  best  plant  for  your  pur- 
pose. It  will  make  a  good  hedge  sooner  than  anything  else.  Make 
sure  you  get  the  oval-leaved  Privet  (Ligustrum  ovalifolium).  Horn- 
beam makes  a  good  hedge  and  is  fairly  quick  growing,  while  Quick 
or  Thorn  has  much  to  recommend  it. 

About  Clematis,  Quick  Growing  Plant,  and  Low  Hedge 

Q.  What  quick  growing  plant  would  you  recommend  for  hiding 
cottage  bedroom  windows  overlooking  vegetable  garden  ?  What 
would  make  a  nice  low  hedge  in  front  of  drawing  room  and  facing 
drive  gate?  Last  spring  we  planted  two  Clematises,  Jackmani 
superba  and  Gipsy  Queen,  to  trail  on  pillars  of  verandah  in  drive. 
The  former  grew  quickly  to  about  7  feet  and  ready  to  blossom,  when 
suddenly  it  began  to  droop  and  died  downwards.—  Mrs.  Adams, 
Bucks. 

A.  Clematis  plants  thrive  best  in  a  naturally  dry  situation,  and 
in  a  fairly  light  soil.  The  plants  do  sometimes  die  down  suddenly, 
owing  to  some  check.  The  young  shoots  may  grow  up  and  prove 
successful.  Ceanothus  azureus  Gloire  de  Versailles  bears  long  spikes 
of  lavender  blue  flowers  from  midsummer  to  late  autumn.  It  would 
be  a  charming  substitute.  Cupressus  macrocarpa  would  quickly 
grow  and  form  a  screen  ;  and  the  oval-leaved  Privet  or  Euonymus 


U±     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

or  Daisy  Bush,  Olearia  Haasti,  would  prove  satisfactory  as  a  low 
hedge. 

Pruning   Clematis  montana 

Q.  The  house  that  I  have  leased  has  a  very  old  Clematis  montana 
growing  over  porch  in  front.  When  I  first  saw  the  house  this  was  a 
mass  of  white  bloorn,  but  underneath  the  bloom  was  a  thick  mass  of 
dead  wood,  which  I  thought  most  objectionable.  When  doing  up 
the  house  all  this  had  to  be  cut  away,  now  the  front  of  the  house  is 
covered  with  long  trails.  I  am  told  there  will  be  no  blossom  next 
year  if  I  trim  these  long  trails,  but  I  cannot  have  them  hanging  all 
over  the  place,  yet  I  should  like  to  have  the  blossom. — M.  de  A'., 
Bournemouth. 

A.  C.  montana  requires  quite  different  treatment  from  C.  Jack- 
mani,  as  the  former  flowers  next  year  on  the  growths  made  this 
year.  If  you  wish  for  flowers  next  year  you  must  leave  this  year's 
young  growths.  Cut  back  the  plant  each  year  as  soon  as  the  flowers 
are  over.  C.  Jackmani  is  in  flower  now  (August)  on  the  growths 
made  this  spring  and  early  summer. 

Pruning  Ivy 

Q.  Please  tell  me  how  to  proceed  when  pruning  Ivy  on  wall. 
When  should  I  prune?— E.  M.  If.,  AsJibourne. 

A.  The  specimen  you  send  is  one  of  the  large-leaved  Ivies,  called 
Hedera  Helix  Amurensis.  You  may  prune  it  in  March,  and  it  can 
be  cut  back  fairly  hard  so  as  to  get  it  back  to  the  wall.  Subsequent 
primings  may  take  place  twice  a  year,  spring  and  summer,  to  keep 
it  within  bounds,  the  spring  pruning  being  severe  and  the  second  or 
summer  pruning  in  July  light.  In  the  former  case  it  may  be  cut 
well  back  to  the  wall,  whilst  in  the  latter  case  the  long,  loose  shoots 
only  should  be  shortened.  It  is  usually  advisable  to  use  a  knife 
instead  of  shears  for  the  large  leaved  Ivies,  for  if  leaves  are  mutilated 
they  are  very  unsightly. 

Evergreens  for  Hedge 

Q.  Can  you  advise  as  to  planting  an  evergreen  shrub  for  a 
division  line  position,  north  side  of  house  shaded  by  an  Ash  tree, 
height  to  be  kept  to  2  feet?  Would  Butcher's  Broom  (Ruscus 
aculeatus)  be  suitable  1  if  so,  would  it  be  too  late  to  plant  now 
(November)  1  and  what  distance  apart  should  you  plant  to  form  a 
continuous  row  !  I  want  to  keep  clear  of  Privet. — F.  M.,  Leicester. 

A.  The  plant  you  suggest,  Butcher's  Broom  (Ruscus  aculeatus), 


146     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

will  be  suitable  for  the  position  you  mention.  The  distance  apart 
to  place  the  plants  will  depend  entirely  on  their  size,  but  from  9  to 
12  inches  would  be  a  suitable  distance  for  average  sized  plants. 
Other  useful  shrubs  for  such  a  position  are  Gaultheria  Shallon  and 
Berberis  (Mahonia)  Aquifolium.  The  latter  is  an  easily  obtained 
plant,  does  very  well  in  shade,  arid  stands  cutting  back  well. 
November  is  a  good  month  for  planting. 

Transplanting  a  Holly   12  feet  High 

Q.  Might  I  safely  undertake  the  transplantation  of  a  Holly 
12  feet  high  ?  If  so,  when  should  the  work  be  done  1—M.  J/.,  Htrts. 

A.  It  is  quite  possible  safely  to  transplant  a  Holly  12  feet  high, 
but  it  must  be  done  carefully.  The  work  should  be  done  either  in 
September  or  early  May.  You  will  need  to  move  a  large  ball  of 
earth  with  it,  especially  if  it  is  a  very  old  specimen.  Two  men  will 
be  required  to  get  the  plant  ready  to  transplant — that  is  to  work 
round  the  ball  and  tie  it  up  tightly  in  stout  canvas,  undermine  it, 
and  place  two  pieces  of  plank  beneath  the  centre— and  prepare  the 
new  position.  If  it  is  only  to  be  moved  a  short  distance  a  trench 
can  be  made  from  one  hole  to  the  other,  and  four  or  five  men  will 
be  able  to  do  the  work  by  means  of  planks  and  rollers.  If,  however, 
it  has  to  be  moved  some  distance  it  will  have  to  be  rolled  out  of  the 
hole  by  means  of  an  inclined  plane  and  rolled  into  the  new  one  by 
the  same  means  ;  this  would  require  eight  to  ten  men,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  ball. 

Evergreen   Shrubs   for  Garden 

Q.  Please  name  shrubs  that  will  keep  green  all  the  winter,  say, 
for  ordinary  soil  near  house.  What  shrubs  can  you  recommend  for 
planting  soon  (October)  ? — E.  /S.,  Eeckenkam. 

A.  The  following  shrubs  would  do  well  with  you,  and  keep  green 
all  the  winter.  Aucuba  japonica,  Berberis  stenophylla,  B.  (Mahonia) 
Aquifolium,  Tree  Ivies,  Rhododendron  ponticum  and  any  of  the 
garden  varieties,  variegated  Box,  Olearia  Haastii,  and  Laurustinus. 
The  latter  may  be  damaged  if  a  very  severe  winter  is  experi- 
enced, but  it  usually  grows  again  from  the  bottom.  All  may  be 
planted  at  once.  The  two  best  for  a  shady  place  are  Aucuba  japon- 
ica and  Berberis  Aquifolium.  Any  ordinary  garden  soil  is  suitable 
for  these  shrubs  except  the  Rhododendrons.  These  can  only  be 
grown  in  places  where  lime  is  not  found  in  any  great  quantity, 
although  they  do  not  need  peat  as  commonly  supposed. 


148     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Sowing  Seeds  of  and  Pruning  Forest  Trees 

Q.  Please  give  me  information  about  the  sowing  of  seeds  of 
Larch,  Oak,  Ash,  Beech,  the  time  to  collect  the  seeds,  and  the  time 
to  prune  Ash,  Oak,  and  Beech.— IF.  J.  B.,  Norfolk. 

A.  Larch,  Oak,  and  Beech  seeds  may  be  collected  in  early 
October.  Ash  should  be  collected  in  August.  Oak  and  Beec^  ought 
to  be  sown  in  October  in  nursery  beds  4  feet  wide.  If  you  are 
troubled  by  mice,  roll  the  seeds  in  red  lead  before  sowing.  Larch 
seeds  may  be  either  sown  in  October  or  kept  until  spring.  If  kept 
until  the  latter  time  store  in  a  cool  room.  As  Oaks  lose  their 
vitality  very  quickly  if  allowed  to  become  dry,  store  them  in  damp 
sand  if  you  are  unable  to  sow  when  gathered.  Ash  seeds  may  be 
sown  as  soon  as  collected.  Oak,  Beech,  and  Ash  trees  may  be 
pruned  any  time  between  the  beginning  of  June  and  end  of  Decem- 
ber, but  not  during  the  spring  and  late  winter  months.  If  the  trees 
are  planted  under  proper  forest  conditions  they  ought  to  require  no 
other  pruning  than  the  snipping  off  of  a  rival  leader,  for,  by  close 
planting,  the  trunks  clean  themselves.  If  you  are  going  to  prune 
large  trees,  be  careful  to  make  the  cuts  well  up  to  the  trunk  and 
tar  the  wounds  over  as  soon  as  made. 

Raising  a  Stock  of  Evergreens 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  if  you  wou  Id  tell  me  how  I  can  raise  a  stock 
of  evergreen  plants  for  shrubbery  planting. — E.  T.  H.,  Willesden. 

A.  October  is  probably  the  best  month  of  the  year  for  the 
propagation  of  hardy  evergreen  shrubs  by  means  of  cuttings.  Pro- 
tection is  unnecessary,  yet  a  frame  is  very  useful  when  choice 
varieties  have  to  be  dealt  with,  as  they  root  more  readily  with 
this  assistance.  Choose  pieces  from  6  inches  to  1  foot  in  length 
and  remove  the  lower  leaves.  A  north  border  that  is  slightly 
protected  is  the  best  position  for  them,  and  they  should  be  inserted 
to  about  two  thirds  their  length,  placing  a  little  sand  in  the  bottom 
of  the  trench  to  assist  root  formation.  Make  quite  firm,  and  if 
after  severe  frost  any  are  lifted  they  should  be  trodden  down 
immediately  ;  the  lifting  power  that  frost  possesses  is  remarkable. 
Rough  winds  will  also  cause  damage  if  the  cuttings  are  not  kept 
firm.  Where  a  frame  is  used  this  precaution  is  to  a  certain  extent 
unnecessary,  but  it  is  well  to  look  over  them  after  a  spell  of  hard 
frost.  Among  the  shrubs  which  may  be  propagated  thus  are 
common  Laurel,  Aucuba,  Privet,  Box,  Choisya  ternata  (in  the 
south),  Euonymus,  etc. 


CHAPTER   XI 
Home   Grown  Vegetables 

Storing  Carrots  and  Turnips 

Q.  Please  instruct  me  how  to  store  Carrots  and  Turnips  properly. 
I  have  lost  many  through  improper  storage. — A. 8.  T.,  Edinburgh. 

A.  On  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  that  is  generally  during 
October,  the  Carrots  should  be  very  carefully  lifted,  some  of  the 
superabundant  earth  removed,  the  tops  neatly  cut  off,  and  the  roots 
stored  in  sacks  with  the  heads  outwards,  filling  in  the  crevices  and 
covering  with  sand.  They  may  also  be  stored  in  clamps  out  of 
doors  in  the  manner  often  practised  with  Potatoes.  Or  they  may  be 
stored  in  a  frostproof  shed  in  layers  with  straw  between  each  layer. 
The  Turnips  would  be  better  used  as  they  are  lifted,  but  they 
may  be  kept  for  a  time,  in  the  manner  advised  for  Carrots,  in  a 
frostproof  shed. 

On  Growing  Cardoons  1 

Q.  I  should  be  glad  of  some  help  in  the  matter  of  growing  the 
Cardoon,  a  vegetable  I  am  fond  of,  but  which  is  greatly  neglected. 
— -i/.  U.,  Monmouth. 

A.  We  do  not  recommend  you  to  try  to  propagate  the  Cardoon 
from  the  shoots  sent  up  from  the  roots,  as  it  is  so  readily  raised  from 
seed  sown  after  the  winter  has  passed.  Seed  should  be  sown  in  the 
places  where  the  plants  are  to  be  grown.  Sow  the  seed  in  little 
bunches  about  18  inches  apart  in  rows  4  feet  apart.  The  plants  can 
then  be  thinned  to  one  at  each  station,  and  in  due  time  secured 
to  stakes.  Blanching  should  take  place  when  full  growth  is  attained, 
i.e.  during  August.  It  takes  about  two  months  to  blanch  properly. 
If  you  wish  to  save  time  you  could  sow  seed  under  glass  in  May  and, 
after  planting  out,  adopt  the  French  method  of  covering  each  plant 
with  straw  thatched  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  around  each  plant. 
A  small  ridge  of  soil  is  drawn  to  the  foot,  and  blanching  is  perfected 
in  about  a  month.  The  Cardoon  does  not  meet  with  the  favour  in 
Britain  with  which  it  is  regarded  on  the  Continent,  where  the  stalks 
and  midribs  of  the  inner  leaves  are  esteemed  in  soups  and  salads. 

149 


150     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Clubbing  among  Vegetables,   Application  of  Lime 

Q.  Cabbages  and  other  vegetables  of  the  Brassica  family  are 
badly  attacked  by  club.  I  thought  of  applying  lime  to  the  soil  to 
improve  matters.  Is  this  right  ?  if  so,  how  much  should  I  apply?— 
H.  A.  I?.,  Newport. 

A.  You  are  certainly  contemplating  the  right  thing,  for  nothing 
will  tend  to  check  the  ravages  of  this  widespread  disease  more  than 
lime.  Scatter  freshly  slaked  lime  all  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  in 
October  or  November.  On  a  large  scale  it  may  be  used  with  good 
effect  from  5  to  7  tons  per  acre.  The  lime  should  be  dug  into  the 
ground  after  the  lapse  of  two  or  three  days.  Do  not  apply  the  lime 
so  near  to  the  fruit  trees  that  it  is  brought  in  direct  contact  with  the 
roots  when  digging  in. 

Young  Marrows  Failing  to  Develop 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  why  Vegetable  Marrows,  when  1  inch  or 
2  inches  long,  refuse  to  grow  any  bigger  and  are  worthless  ? — 
E.  W.  M.,  Chester. 

A.  The  reason  for  the  young  Marrows  turning  yellow  and 
damping  off  when  about  1  inch  or  2  inches  in  length  is  their  not 
being  fertilised.  The  Marrow  plant  produces  two  kinds  of  flowers 
—the  female  which  bears  the  Marrow  fruit,  and  the  male  which 
pollinates  the  female.  If  the  female  flowers  are  not  pollinated,  they 
are  in  consequence  unfertilised  and  therefore  undeveloped.  As  a 
rule  bees  are  responsible  for  the  pollination  of  Marrow  flowers  ; 
in  order  that  bees  and  other  insects  should  perform  this  work  it 
is  very  necessary  that  the  male  flowers  should  not  be  removed,  for 
it  sometimes  happens  that  the  male  flowers  are  picked  off  under 
the  wrong  impression  that  they  are  false  blooms  and  of  no  use  to 
the  plant.  The  very  damp  and  much  colder  weather  which  we 
have  had  may  also  have  a  good  deal  to  do  with  the  Marrows  failing 
to  set  their  fruits. 

Club  Disease  in  Cabbages 

Q.  Please  tell  me  what  causes  these  knotted  lumps  on  Cabbages. 
My  crop  is  badly  attacked  by  this  disease.  The  leaves  are  much 
eaten  by  caterpillars. — W.  8.  T.,  Malvern. 

A.  The  plants  are  affected  by  club  disease  and  attacked  by  the 
grubs  of  the  Cabbage  butterfly  at  the  same  time.  As  soon  as  you 
can  manage  to  do  it  the  allotment  should  be  given  a  heavy  dressing 
of  lime,  for  this  is  the  best  known  agent  to  ward  off  the  club  root 


HOME   GROWN  VEGETABLES  151 

disease  of  Cabbages,  Turnips,  and  similar  crops.  It  would  be  as 
well  to  grow  Potatoes,  Onions,  or  other  crops,  and  to  give  all  the 
Brassicas  a  change,  since  they  are  so  liable  to  be  attacked  on  your 
soil.  It  is  quite  possible  that  the  plants  were  attacked  at  the 
time  of  planting  out.  They  should  be  examined  at  planting  time, 
and  if  affected  the  roots  should  be  puddled  in  a  mixture  of  paraffin, 
soft  soap,  and  soot  water. 

Liming  Ground  for   Potatoes 

Q.  Please  assist  me  in  the  following.  I  have  a  plot  of  garden 
ground  (26  poles),  to  which  I  intend  giving  lime.  The  soil  is  medium 
stiff.  What  quantity  would  you  advise  me  to  give  it  ?  The  best 
time  to  put  on,  now  (autumn)  or  spring]  Whether  to  dig  or  fork 
it  in?  I  am  to  crop  it  with  Potatoes  again. — Constant  Reader, 
Montrose. 

A.  Deeply  dig  your  plot,  leaving  the  soil  rough  on  the  surface. 
Then  apply  2  pecks  of  slaked  lime  (in  powder  form)  per  rod  of 
ground.  Scatter  the  powdered  lime  evenly  on  the  surface,  and  let  it 
remain  so  for  a  few  weeks,  then  fork  it  in. 

Asparagus 

Q.  Can  I  water  Asparagus  beds  with  sea  water,  and  frequently  or 
otherwise  1— R.  /?.,  /.  of  W. 

A.  Seaweed  in  moderation  is  a  good  manure  to  use  in  the  making 
of  new  Asparagus  beds,  but  we  have  never  known  or  heard  of  beds 
being  watered  with  sea  water.  Unless  very  greatly  diluted,  the 
result  of  using  it,  we  think,  would  be  disastrous  to  the  Asparagus 
plants.  Asparagus  plants  thrive  best  when  kept  on  the  dry  side 
during  winter,  and  should  be  watered  only  in  spring  and  early  sum- 
mer when  growing  fast,  and  again  at  the  end  of  summer  to  help  the 
grass  plump  up  good  crowns  for  next  year's  bearing.  Liquid  manure 
from  a  farmyard  is  best  ;  in  the  absence  of  this  an  occasional  light 
dressing  of  Peruvian  guano  is  the  next  best,  washing  it  in  with  a 
copious  application  of  clean  water. 

Saving  Seed  of  Onions 

Q.  I  have  some  good  Onions,  grown  from  a  prize  strain,  and  wish 
to  save  seed.  Kindly  advise.—  Grower,  Chertsey. 

A.  Only  bulbs  of  uniform  shape  and  large  size,  according  to  the 
variety,  should  be  selected  for  seed  production.  It  is  found  in  prac- 
tice that  new  forms  quickly  deteriorate  if  selection  is  not  rigidly 


152     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

carried  out.  February  is  the  best  time  to  plant  the  bulbs  out,  and  a 
sheltered  position  in  a  rich  soil  should  be  chosen  for  them.  So  long 
as  the  soil  is  in  a  rich  and  fertile  condition  you  need  not  add  any 
more  manure.  Care  should  be  taken  to  tie  up  the  flower  stalks, 
each  to  a  stake,  as  soon  as  support  is  needed.  The  time  to  harvest 
depends  upon  the  condition  of  the  seed  vessels  ;  thus,  as  soon  as  they 
begin  to  turn  brown  and  to  burst  open,  the  heads  should  be  cut  off 
and  dried  in  the  sun.  Afterwards  place  them  in  paper  bags  and 
suspend  them  from  the  roof  of  a  cool  and  dry  shed.  The  seed  is 
readily  cleaned,  and  may  be  kept  for  a  season  or  two,  but  it  cannot 
be  depended  upon  afterwards. 

Forcing  Rhubarb 

Q.  Will  you  please  tell  me  how  to  proceed  to  force  Rhubarb? 
— M.  K.,  Dartford. 

A.  Rhubarb  is  one  of  the  easiest  of  vegetables  to  force,  and  any 
structure  having  a  temperature  ranging  from  55°  to  60°  may  be 
used  for  the  purpose ;  or  the  roots  may  be  covered  in  the  open 
air  with  boxes  2  feet  in  height,  having  lids,  and  sufficiently  wide 
to  accommodate  the  crowns.  Rhubarb  pots,  too,  are  often  used. 
They  may  be  bought  at  any  pottery,  and  with  care  will  last  for 
years.  The  easiest  method  of  forcing  Rhubarb  is  to  lift  some  strong 
roots  and  plant  them  in  large  pots  or  boxes,  and  place  them  under 
glass  ;  or  the  roots  may  be  set  moderately  close  together  upon 
the  ground,  and  covered  with  soil  2  inches  above  the  crowns.  Then 
give  them  a  thorough  soaking  with  water,  to  settle  the  soil  among 
the  roots.  Afterwards,  too,  when  in  active  growth,  they  must  be 
well  supplied  with  water,  or  the  stems  will  be  tough  and  stringy 
Any  structure  will  suit  Rhubarb,  provided  it  has  a  warm,  moist 
temperature.  A  forcing  pit  heated  with  hot  water  is,  however, 
the  best  place  for  it  where  required  in  large  quantities  and  of  the 
very  best  quality.  When  forced  in  the  open  garden  underneath 
pots  or  boxes,  a  heap  of  warm  manure  must  be  placed  round  each 
box.  Where  not  forced,  some  long  litter  placed  over  the  crowns 
early  in  spring  will  encourage  early  growth,  when  a  few  dishes 
may  be  had  before  the  general  crop  comes  into  use. 

Useful  Winter   Vegetables 

Q.  Could  you  give  a  list  of  useful  winter  vegetables  with  concise 
cultural  directions  1—Amery,  Leeds. 

A.  From  a  May  sowing  on  a  piece  of  good  ground,  and  treated 


HOME   GROWN  VEGETABLES  153 

like  Carrots,  splendid  roots  nearly  18  inches  long  of  Salsafy  or 
Oyster  Plant  may  be  had  by  November.  When  properly  cooked 
and  served  they  form  a  really  excellent  dish.  Scorzonera  requires 
identical  treatment,  and  where  one  is  appreciated  the  other  is  sure 
to  be  welcome.  Good  Turnips  are  often  at  a  premium  late  in  the 
year,  and  Kohl  Rabi  makes  a  very  good  substitute.  Sown  in  drills 
in  April,  15  inches  apart  and  thinned  out  to  1  foot  in  the  rows, 
good  roots  will  be  available  for  winter  use ;  the  purple  variety  is 
best  for  winter.  They  require  more  cooking  than  Turnips.  While 
every  gardener  is  familiar  with  the  ordinary  Purple  Sprouting  variety 
which  proves  so  valuable  in  early  spring,  the  merit  of  Christmas 
Sprouting  Broccoli  for  providing  a  dish  at  midwinter  is  sadly  over- 
looked. Plants  from  an  early  April  sowing  grow  nearly  4  feet 
across,  and  give  an  abundance  of  good  sprouts  to  be  cooked  like 
Asparagus  during  the  festive  season.  It  is  more  dwarf  and  compact 
growing  than  the  ordinary  variety,  and  stands  severe  frosts  with 
impunity.  Green  Sprouting  Broccoli  is  a  great  acquisition  to  the 
winter  vegetables.  The  young  shoots  are  produced  in  great  abund- 
ance, and  if  picked  while  young  make  a  delicious  vegetable,  even 
to  those  who  often  rate  Winter  Greens  unpalatable.  Stewed  Celery 
is  well  known,  in  fact,  owing  to  the  great  demand  for  it,  many 
gardeners  wish  it  were  not  so  ;  it  is  a  trifle  disheartening  to  get 
up  nearly  a  dozen  of  one's  best  sticks,  only  to  find  later  more 
than  half  the  stick  has  been  thrown  away.  In  such  cases  it  will 
be  as  well  to  try  to  introduce  Celeriac,  the  roots  of  which  make 
a  valuable  winter  vegetable,  and  do  not  require  nearly  so  much 
time  spent  upon  them  during  the  summer  as  Celery  does. 

Black  Scab  in  Potatoes 

Q.  My  Potatoes  are  attacked  by  the  black  scab  disease.  Can  it 
be  cured  1—E.  0.  H.,  Hants. 

A.  The  disease  may  be  introduced  with  the  seeds  or  sets,  or  it 
may  be  present  in  the  soil  from  a  diseased  crop.  If  scabbed 
Potatoes  are  used  for  seed  without  having  been  sterilised,  the  result- 
ing crop  will  almost  certainly  be  diseased,  and  in  addition  the  fungus 
will  pass  into  the  soil,  where  it  is  capable  of  living  for  several  years. 
But  scabbed  Potatoes  may  be  used  for  seed  without  the  slightest 
danger  of  spreading  the  disease  if  they  are  immersed  for  two  hours 
in  a  solution  of  £  pint  of  commercial  formalin  (formaldehyde  40  per 
cent.)  mixed  with  18  gallons  of  water.  The  Potatoes  are  then  spread 
out  to  dry,  when  they  may  be  cut  and  planted  in  the  usual  manner- 


154     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

Care  must  be  taken  after  the  Potatoes  have  been  treated  with  the 
formalin  solution  that  they  are  not  used  for  food,  and  they  should 
not  be  placed  in  sacks  or  hampers  that  have  contained  scabbed 
Potatoes.  Land  that  has  produced  scabbed  Potatoes  should  not  be 
planted  with  Potatoes  for  several  years  afterwards.  Beet,  Swedes, 
Carrots,  and  Cabbages  are  also  affected  by  the  fungus  ;  cereals  may 
be  sown  with  safety  on  infected  land.  In  the  case  of  gardens  and 
small  allotments,  where,  of  necessity,  Potatoes  are  grown  every  year, 
the  trenches  in  which  the  Potatoes  are  planted  should  be  sprinkled 
with  flowers  of  sulphur,  this  being  done  by  means  of  a  bellows 
apparatus.  As  you  require  45  bushels  of  Potatoes  for  table  use,  you 
would  need  to  plant  j  acre,  the  produce  of  1  acre  of  late  Potatoes 
being  about  6  tons,  and  45  bushels  equals  22^  cwt,  so  that  some 
margin  will  be  left  in  excess  to  account  for  small  or  otherwise 
unusable  tubers.  It  certainly  pays  allotment  holders  to  grow  their 
own  Potatoes  with  land  at  Is.  per  rod,  £8  per  acre,  also  many  private 
and  public  establishments  ;  your  cost  of  labour,  however,  is  high,  24s. 
per  week,  and  that  may  make  just  all  the  difference  between  econo- 
mical and  unremunerative  production.  ~ 

The  Carrot  Fly 

Q.  Please  say  what  worm  this  is  attacking  my  carrots.  Some  of 
the  roots  are  a  rusty  brown  colour,  while  others  are  rotten. — A.  T.  S., 
Colchester. 

A.  The  worm  is  the  larva  or  maggot  of  the  Carrot  fly.  The  fly 
does  not,  as  a  rule,  attack  them  until  the  end  of  May.  The  flies 
appear  in  spring,  and  when  the  Carrot  roots  are  well  established  the 
flies  lay  their  eggs  on  them  just  below  the  ground.  When  full  fed 
the  maggots  leave  the  roots  for  pupation  in  the  soil ;  the  pupa  case 
is  light  brown  in  colour,  horny,  and  striated.  There  are  several 
generations  during  the  summer,  but  it  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  Car- 
rots sown  after  the  middle  of  July  are  seldom  attacked,  and  good, 
useful  Carrots  are  obtained  by  sowing  about  that  time,  say  after 
early  Potatoes.  The  freeing  of  the  ground  from  pupae  by  dressing 
with  gas  lime  in  winter  is  an  old  fashioned  preventive,  but  as  the 
fly  infests  other  umbelliferous  plants  the  thing  is  to  keep  a  sharp 
look  out  for  the  flies,  and  when  they  are  seen  about  or  on  the  Carrot 
plants,  spray  these  with  a  solution  of  paraffin  emulsion,  1  part  of 
emulsion  to  20  parts  of  water.  This  can  be  put  on  with  a  syringe 
having  a  spraying  nozzle.  To  act  preventively,  spray  the  Carrot 
bed,  after  sowing,  with  the  paraffin  emulsion ;  spray  again  with  it 


HOME  GROWN  VEGETABLES  155 

after  the  plants  are  well  above  ground  ;  and  a  third  time  after  thin- 
ning. 

Mint  During  Winter 

Q.  How  can  I  obtain  a  supply  of  Mint  during  winter  ? — Chester. 

A.  Procure  some  boxes  in  which  holes  have  been  made  for  drain- 
age, cover  these  with  a  large  layer  of  leaves  or  short  straw, 
then  a  layer  of  soil  on  top ;  next  lift  some  of  the  roots  from  the 
beds,  shake  off  most  of  the  old  soil,  then  place  them  in  boxes 
as  close  together  as  possible,  covering  them  with  1  inch  or  so  of 
soil.  Any  old  potting  soil  will  do.  Give  a  good  watering,  after 
which  place  in  a  warm  house.  The  roots  will  soon  begin  to  pro- 
duce an  abundance  of  nice  green  shoots.  In  place  of  boxes,  if  so 
desired,  pots  may  be  substituted,  and  will  often  be  found  more 
convenient,  especially  where  only  a  very  small  quantity  is  required. 
As  there  is  often  a  demand  for  Mint  before  it  comes  on  under 
natural  conditions,  this  method  of  forcing  is  particularly  handy,  since 
it  entails  little  or  no  trouble  beyond  a  plentiful  supply  of  moisture. 

"When  and  How  to  Form  an  Asparagus  Bed 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  the  best  time  to  plant  Asparagus,  and  how 
to  begin  to  form  a  bed  ? — S.  A.  G.,  Devon. 

A.  The  best  tim£  to  plant  Asparagus  is  during  the  month  of 
April.  Trench  the  ground  in  the  autumn,  and  put  in  plenty  of 
manure  if  the  soil  is  poor  in  quality.  Form  low  beds  with  shallow 
alleys  between  if  the  soil  is  light,  and  if  it  be  heavy  raise  the  beds 
6  inches.  Put  out  the  plants  in  rows  15  inches  apart,  and  9  inches 
from  plant  to  plant  in  the  rows. 

Tomato  Fruits  not  Setting 

Q.  Can  you  tell  me  why  the  fruits  fail  to  form  on  my  Tomato 
plants  in  the  greenhouse  1  They  bloom  well,  but  instead  of  setting 
the  flowers  fall  off.—  Anxious,  llije. 

A.  The  soil  most  probably  needs  a  liberal  dressing  of  lime.  Do 
not  plant  Tomatoes  in  it  again  at  least  for  a  year.  Instead  of  plant- 
ing them  in  the  border,  plant  them  in  boxes,  tubs,  or  pots,  using 
new  soil,  of  course,  and  place  them  on  the  border.  You  will  get 
quite  as  heavy  crops  ;  at  least,  you  will  not  be  troubled  with  flowers 
falling.  To  prevent  the  further  falling  of  your  flowers  we  strongly 
advise  you  to  give  more  air  on  warm  days,  leaving  a  little  on  also 
at  night,  and  if  possible  have  a  little  warmth  in  the  hot  water  pipes 
at  night. 


156     GARDENING  DIFFICULTIES  SOLVED 

The  Tomato  Disease 

Q.  Please  enlighten  me  as  to  the  cause  of  these  large  black 
patches  on  my  Tomatoes,  which  are  greatly  disfigured  ? — 8.  T.  W., 
Richmond. 

vt.  Your  Tomatoes  have  got  the  Tomato  disease.  It  is  the  same 
thing  as  the  Potato  disease  (Peronospora  infestans).  Pluck  off  and 
burn  all  the  infested  fruit ;  they  are  not  fit  for  consumption.  How 
the  disease  has  come  to  attack  your  plants  is  difficult  to  tell,  but 
we  think  the  plants  are  too  close  together,  or  they  have  been  allowed 
to  become  overcrowded  with  leafage,  making  it  impossible  for  much 
air  and  light  to  permeate  amongst  the  plants.  Keeping  the  plants 
too  wet  at  the  root,  and  the  atmosphere  too  damp,  tends  to  bring  on 
the  disease.  You  should  thin  out  the  laterals  and  also  some  of  the 
leaves  to  let  in  more  light  and  air  amongst  the  plants.  Ventilate 
freely  in  warm  weather,  and  on  cold,  wet  days  and  nights  you  had 
better  have  a  little  heat  in  the  hot  water  pipes,  always  with  a  little 
air  on.  If  the  disease  has  attacked  the  stems  or  leaves  have  the 
diseased  parts  dressed  with  flowers  of  sulphur. 

Earthing  Up  Potatoes 

Q.  How  and  when  should  Potatoes  be  earthed  up? — Grateful, 
Exeter. 

A.  To  cover  the  young  growing  tops  with  a  large  bulk  of  soil, 
as  obtains  in  some  gardens,  is  decidedly  a  mistake,  for  in  so  doing 
many  shoots  get  badly  broken  or  knocked  off,  consequently  the 
growth  is  checked,  and  the  crop  suffers.  I  like  to  earth  up  our 
Potatoes  twice  during  the  season.  First,  by  gently  drawing  a  little 
soil  to  them  when  a  few  inches  above  ground,  and  again  three  weeks 
later.  Previous  to  the  latter  earthing  we  go  over  the  whole  plot 
and  remove  all  superfluous  growths  from  each  root,  leaving  only 
the  two  strongest ;  at  the  same  time  a  dressing  of  soot  or  wood  ash 
is  given.  This  during  the  earthing  becomes  incorporated  with  the 
soil,  and  has  a  wonderful  influence  on  the  foliage  and  the  crop. 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

PA  OR 

Apple  tree,  espalier      .         .         .121 

Melon  flowers,  fertilising     .         .  138 

Apples,  three  good       .         .         .125 

„       shoots  and  flowers     .        .137 

Begonia,  ornamental-leaved         .     84 

Pansies,  cuttings  of               .        .     80 

Bulbs,  potting       .         .    104,  105,  106 

„        tufted     .  ,  /  ,        .         .73 

Pear  Durondeau  .         ...       .131 

Carnation  Elizabeth  Shiffner        .     45 

Pears,  pruning      .         .         ..       .129 

Carnations,  cuttings  of  perpetual 

Primulas,  hardy    .        .         .         .75 

flowering       .         .          40,  41,  43 

Pruning  Roses       .         4,  5,  6,  8,  9,  10 

Chrysanthemum  buds,  taking      .  101 

„              cuttings   .      99,  100 

Rhododendron  Lord  Palmerston  .  145 

Rose  Betty,  20;  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  21  ; 

Maggie      .         .     96 

cuttings,  31,   32;    Dorothy  Per- 

White St.  Croutts  98 

kins,  13  ;    Lady  Gay,  17  ;   Mme. 

Clematis,  mountain    .         .         Front. 
Crocus  Sir  Walter  Scott        .         .  108 

D'Arblay.  19;  Mrs.  Sophia  Neate, 
25  ;  Reve  d'Or          ...     7 

Crocuses  in  the  grass  .         .         .74 

Roses,  crimson,  22;   in  pots,  34,  35, 

Cyclamen,  hardy      .'"•.        .         .     68 

36  ;    pink,   29  ;  pruning,   4  ;    red 

and  yellow,  3  j  standard        .16 

Daffodil  Sir  Watkin     .        .         .107 

Dahlias,  Paeony  flowered     .         .71 

Spiraea,  a  handsome    .        .        .147 

Delphinium  Bella  Donna     .         .57 

Spring  flowers       .        .        .        .     61 

Standard  Roses     .        .        .        .15 

Forget-me-not  dell,  a  .         .         .60 

Sweet  Pea  plant  from  one  seed     .     50 

Sweet  Peas,  well  grown         .         .     51 

Gloxinias      .        .    .     .         .         .85 

Grapes  in  amateur's  greenhouse  .  Ill 

Trollius,  or  Globe  Flowers    .         .67 

,,       ,  thinning        .         .        .115 

Hydrangea  plants,  well  grown     .     81 

Vine  border,  making    .         .         .112 

Vines,  planting,  -113  ;  side  shoots 

>              -rv 

of                    ....  114 

Irish  garden,  an   .         .         .         .     o9 

Lily,  golden-rayed        .     -  .     •    .     87 

Wall  in  suburban  garden     .             69 

157 


INDEX 


American  blight  on  Apple  trees,  122 

Anemones,  78 

Aphis  on  Plum  tree,  127 

Apple  tree,  transplanting,  122;  trees, 

American  blight  on,  122 
Apples,  late  keeping,  135 
Asparagus,  151;   bed,  forming,  155 
Aster,  a  common  disease  of,  65 


B 

Bank,  plants  for,  74 

Basic  slag  for  Roses,  50 

Beds,  preparing  for  Carnations,  44 

Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  88 

Blackberries  for  the  garden,  133 

Black  Currant  mite,  131 

Border,  hardy  flowers  for  sunny,  75; 
plants  for  dry,  62;  shady,  62 

Briar  stocks,  preparing,  14 

Brick  paths,  making,  58 

Bulbs,  early  flowering,  77;  for  ex- 
hibition, 103;  Gladiolus,  108; 
Lily,  106;  newly  potted,  treat- 
ment of,  94 


Calceolarias  during  winter,  82 

Cardoons,   149 

Carnation  attacked  by  eelworm,  46 

Carnations,  border  from  cuttings, 
45;  diseases  that  attack,  47;  for 
exhibition,  70;  fragrant,  46;  per- 
petual flowering,  39,  41,  44;  pre- 
paring beds  for,  44;  winter,  42 

Carrot  fly,  the,  154 

Chrysanthemum  cuttings,  taking, 
95;  rust,  how  to  cure,  99 

Chrysanthemums,  artificial  manure 
for,  101;  for  blooming  in  Novem- 
ber and  December,  95;  how  to 
grow,  97;  outdoor  in  winter,  102; 
stopping,  97 


Cinerarias  during  winter,  82 

Clematis,  pruning,  144 

Climbers,  self  clinging,  140;  climb- 
ing Roses,  fragrant,  26 

Club  in  vegetables,  150 

Cucumbers,  growing,  156 

Currants,  Red,  aphides  on,  131 

Cuttings,  border  Carnations  from, 
45;  of  Gooseberries  and  Cur- 
rants, 136 

Cherry,  Morello,  134 


Dahlias     for     exhibition,    70;     forty 

best,  71 

Disease,  a  common,  of  Aster,  65 
Diseased  Vine  leaves,  119 
Diseases  that  attack  Carnations,  47 


Eelworm,  Carnation  attacked  by,  46 
Evergreen  shrubs,  146 
Evergreens,   for   hedge,   144;   raising 
stock  of,  148 


Fence,  plants  for,  141 

Fern,     fronds     turning     white,     79; 

Maidenhair,  in  winter,  80 
Filberts,  gathering,  132 
Forest  trees,  sowing  seeds  of,  148 
Fruit     trees,     for    sandy    soil,    135; 

gumming      in,      127;      mulching 

young,  128 
Fuchsias,  82;  in  winter,  89 


Garden  frame,  making  most  of,  76 
Geranium,  cuttings,  taking,  89;   the 

best  bedding,  68 

Geraniums  for  winter  flowering,  86 
Gladioli,    lifting,   70?    not   flowering, 

103 


158 


INDEX* 


159 


Gladiolus  bulbs,  108 
Gloxinia  infested  by  rust.  87 
Gooseberries,   cordon,    128;    pruning, 

126 

Grafted  Apple  trees  dying,  122 
Grape    (Foster's    Seedling),    spotted, 
116;  growing  in  greenhouses,  110 
Grapes,  Muscat,  rust  on,  119;  ripen- 
ing,  treatment  of,   117;    scalded, 
115,  117;   shrivelling  before  ripe, 
116 

Greenfly  in  conservatory,  79,  88 
Greenhouse,  Grape-growing  in  a, 
110;  greenfly  in,  79;  heated, 
climbing  Roses  for,  33;  heating 
apparatus  for  small,  80;  in  win- 
ter, plants  for,  90;  unheated, 
Climbing  roses  for,  33;  ven- 
tilating, 83 

Ground,  preparing,  for  Sweet  Peas, 
49 

H 

Heating  apparatus  for  small  green- 
house, 80 

Hedge,  evergreens  for,  144;  plants 
for,  143 

Holly,  transplanting,  146 

Hydrangeas  not  flowering,  81 


Ivy,  pruning,  144 


Jessamine,  pruning  white,  76 


Kainit  for  Roses,  30 


Lawn,  improving,  56,  57;  renovating 
the,  55;  seed,  quantity  of,  to  sow, 
54;  top  dressing  a,  56;  weeds  on, 
54 

Lilies,  diseased,  106;  in  pots,  108 

Lily  bulbs,  106;  of  the  Valley, 
forcing,  91;  Tiger,  increasing, 
104 

Loganberry,  130 

M 

Maidenhair  Fern  in  winter,  80 


Manure,    artificial,    for    Chrysanthe- 
mums,    101;    Clay's,    36,    52,  102; 
for    Strawberries,    136;    pig,    for 
Sweet  Peas,  48,  53 
Manures,  artificial,  for  Roses,  28 
Marguerite  leaves  ruined  by  insect, 

86 

Marguerites  suddenly  withering,  92 
Medlars,  keeping,  132 
Melon  flowers,   fertilising.   137 
Mildew,  spraying  roses  for,  33 
Mint  during  winter,  155 
Mcntbretias  not  flowering,  77 
Moss   on   paths,   to    destroy,    70;    on 

walks,  56 
Mulching  young  fruit  trees,  128 


N 

Nasturtium,  Flame,  68 
Nectarines  shrivelling,  136;  splitting, 
125,  139 


Onions,  saving  seed  of,  151 
Orchids,  treatment  of,  90 


Pansies,  failure  with,  72 

Paths,  making  brick,  58 

Pea  mould,  Sweet  Peas  killed  by,  52 

Peach  leaf  blister,  125 

Peaches,  stringy,  136 

Pear,    scab    on,    122;  cankered,  123; 

pruning,  126 
Pears,    gathering,    130;    greenhouse. 

falling  while  small,  124 
Perennials,  staking,  68 
Pergola,  Roses  for,  24 
Planting  trees,  142 
Plum  (Myrobella),  hedge,  trimming, 

126;  tree,  aphis  on.  127 
Pond,  making  a  small,  64 
Potatoes,  black  scab  in,  153;  liming 

ground  for,  151 
Pots,  Sweet  Peas  in,  50 
Pruning,  Clematis,  144;  forest  trees. 

148;  Gooseberry  bushes,  126;  Ivy, 

144;    Pear   trees,    126;    Roses,    4; 

Vines,  110;  White  Jessamine,  76 
Pansy     cuttings,     keeping     through 

winter,  82 


160 


INDEX 


Raspberries,  replanting,  132;  un- 
satisfactory, 129 

Red  Currants,  aphides  on,  131 

Red  spider  on  Vines,  118 

Rhubarb,  forcing,  152 

Root  pruning,  134 

Rose  of  Jericho,  94 

Roses,  artificial  manure  for,  28; 
basic  slag  and  kainit,  30;  bush, 
in  pots,  36;  Christmas,  34;  climb- 
ing, for  greenhouse,  33;  for  cold 
garden,  16;  exhibition,  12;  forc- 
ing, 37;  hedge,  12;  heavy  clay 
soil,  18;  north  wall,  11,  25;  per- 
gola, 24;  shady  wall,  11;  sub- 
urban garden,  18;  fragrant 
climbing,  26;  from  cuttings,  30; 
how  to  plant,  1;  Hybrid  Per- 
petual, 23;  Hybrid  Tea,  23;  half 
standards,  16;  preparing  Briar 
stocks,  14;  pruning,  4;  Rambling, 
8;  selection  of  standard,  15; 
spraying  for  mildew,  33;  soil  for 
potting,  34;  Sweet  Briar  for 
hedge,  2;  sweet  scented,  20;  that 
do  not  droop,  11 ;  time  to  plant,  1 

Rust,  Chrysanthemum,  how  to  cure, 
99;  on  Muscat  Grapes,  119 


Shrubs,  berried,   for  wall,   68;   ever 
green,    beneath    trees,    141 ;    for    j 
north  border,  141;  flowering,  140 

Soil  for  potting  Roses,  34 

Staking  perennials,  68 

Strawberries,   manure   for,    136;   un- 
fruitful, 129 


Sweet  Pea  buds  falling,  49 

Sweet    Peas    in    pots,  50;  killed  by 

Pea  mould,  52;  manure  for,  48; 

pig    manure    for,    53;  preparing 

ground  for,  49;  selection  of,  48; 

stopping,  49 


Tomato,  disease,  156;  fruits  not  set- 
ting, 155 
Trees,  planting,  142 


Vegetable  marrows  failing,  150 
Vegetables,  storing,  149;  useful  win- 
ter, 152 
Vine,    borders,    top    dressing,     116; 

leaves,  diseased,   119;   treatment 

of,  118 
Vines,  neglected  in  greenhouse,  117; 

not  fruiting,   114;   pruning,   110; 

red  spider  on,  118;  treatment  of, 

during  summer,  113 
Violets,  how  to  grow,   60 ;   in   frame 

in  winter,  60 


W 

Wallflowers  not  a  success,  66 
Walnuts,  how  to  keep,  133 
Wall,  plants  for  warm,  62 
Weed  killer,  when  to  put  down,  57 
Weeds  on  lawn,  54 
Woodlice,  how  to  get  rid  of,  88,  109 
Worms  on  lawn,  how  to  destroy,  54, 
58 


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